KAY OF BISCAY IN MEMORIAM BERNARD MOSES d O'SHEA'S GUIDE TO SPAIN AND PORTUGAL EDITED BY JOHN LOMAS. isition of < EIGHTH EDITION EDINBURGH: ADAM & CHARLES BLACK PAEIS : GALIGNANI, 224 RUE DE RIVOLI MDCCCLXXXIX OS BERNARD MOSES \ PREFACE TO THE EIGHTH EDITION. ALTHOUGH it is not yet four years since the Seventh Edition was issued, O'Shea's Guide to Spain and Portugal has once more been thoroughly revised upon the spot, and from the latest official information. Beyond the extensive and necessary corrections thus made, the chief alterations which I have introduced consist (1) in a recasting of considerable portions of the Introduction, such as the chapters upon Language and Literature, in order to make these short, and it is to be hoped useful, essays really worthy of their purpose, and of a high-class handbook ; (2) in the careful revision of the lists of books of reference, and the inclusion therein of the chief literary and scientific works of the last ten years. I have again to record my belief that the Peninsula has a great future before it, not only politically and commercially, but also as one of the favoured European playgrounds. The face of the country is rapidly changing, with the spread of its railway system, its commercial development, and the beneficent influence of a stable Government ; and nearly every place or object of interest can now be visited with ease, and in security and comfort. One outcome of this constant change in the direction of im- provement is an extreme difficulty in keeping a Guide Book accurate up to date in such details as hotels, routes, conveyances, etc. ; and I shall therefore value all information which travellers may be pleased to address to me, under cover to the publishers. JOHN LOMAS. 781107 CONTENTS. Avila . BALEARIC ISLANDS ; see Palma. Barcelona ..... Basque Provinces Bilbao Burgos , 1 5 13 14 16 18 20 24 28 31 58 63 68 Gijon Granada and Alhainbra Granja (La) JEREZ LEON GENERAL INFORMATION Travelling Hotels Architecture, etc. Page ALGAL i (de Henares) Alicante ..... Almaden ..... Almeria ..... Andalusia ..... Aragon (Spanish Pyrenees) Aranjuez Asturias ..... MADRID . Climate . History . Hotels . General Description . Royal Palace . Armoury Picture-Gallery Gallery of Sculpture . Minor Picture-Galleries Private Galleries . Libraries Churches Public Buildings . Streets, etc. . Theatres, bull-rings, etc. Directory . . Environs CACERES .... Cadiz .... Cartagena .... Castiles (New and Old) Cataluna 106 Cordova . . . . no Coruna (La) . , . .122 88 91 103 105 ESCORIAL . Estremadura 128 144 GALICIA 145 Gibraltar 149 Pages i-cxiii Page . 159 . 161 209 Malaga Murcia NAVARRE OVIEDO , 210 215 242 256 257 258 259 263 267 270 287 287 288 291 292 295 296 801 303 305 306 320 327 330 Vlll CONTENTS. PALM A and Balearic Islands Page . 341 Seville continued. Page Giralda . 410 SALAMANCA . 356 Streets . 412 Santander Santiago ... . 361 . 364 Theatres Environs . 413 415 Segovia .... . 368 TANGIER, Tetuan, etc. (Morocco) 417 Seville .... . 371 Tarragona . 424 Cathedral 382 Toledo . . 430 Churches 394 Picture-Gallery 396 VALENCIA . 469 Libraries . . , 400 Valladolid . 493 The Lonja . . , The Alcazar . 403 405 Vigo . 506 Private Buildings 408 ZARAGOZA . 509 PORTUGAL . Pages 529-555 BADAJOZ .... 536 COIMBRA . . 545 LISBON .... . 535 Environs INDEX . . 542 PORTO (Oporto) . 550 557 ILLUSTRATIONS. General Map of Spain and Portugal . find of Volume. Page BALEARIC ISLANDS . , , . * 341 Plans of Towns BARCELONA ...... 41 CADIZ . , 91 GRANADA , t i k 170 MADRID . .... 256 MALAGA . , , . ,311 SEVILLE ,*,,. 375 VALENCIA . . , , , ,479 LISBON . . i . . 537 Ground-Plans BURGOS CATHEDRAL , , 70 ESCORIAL . , , , , .128 THE ALHAMBRA . , 173 PICTURE-GALLERY (MADRID) , . .270 RAILWAY CHARTS. Madrid to Toledo, Albacete, Alicante, Murcia, Cartagena, and Valencia . . . . . . .5 Madrid and Bilbao to Zaragoza, Lerida, and Barcelona . . 31 Madrid to Cordova, Seville and Cadiz, and Malaga and Granada 91 Great Northern Railway from the French frontier to Madrid . 242 Mediterranean Line Barcelona to Gerona, Tarragona, Valencia, and Alicante . . . . . .473 Madrid to Badajoz, Lisbon, and Oporto . . . 629 Agriculture, p. xxxiv. Dances, p. xcii. Literature, p. lix. Passports, p. xiv. Architecture, Ixi. Duties, cv. Lotteries, xcix. Pictures, Ixix. Arms, ciii. Festivals, Ixxxvi. Measures, cix. Porcelain, Ixxxiii. Botany, xxxi. Finances, cv. Mineral Springs, xxx. Post Office, xv. Bull-Fights, xcvii. Geography, xix. Mines, xxv. Sculptures, Ixxi. Churches, Ixvii. Geology, xxi. Money, cvi. Sport, xcix. Cigars, ci. Glossary, liv. Mountains, xxiv. Telegraph, xvii. Climate, xxviii. History, xlvii. Music, Ixxxvi. Theatre, xciv. Coins, civ. Hotels, xviii. Olives, xxxix. Travelling, ix. Costume, xci. Language, Hi. Oranges, xxxix. Wine, xliv. Travelling in Spain: Hints. WHEN TO TRAVEL. The best seasons of the year for travelling in Spain are autumn, winter, or spring in the South ; spring in the Centre and East ; and summer or early autumn in the North and West. Andalusia and Castile, Valencia and Estremadura, must not be thought of in summer, as the heat is then intolerable, and riding out of the question. In winter Seville, Malaga, Alicante, Barcelona, or Valencia are pleasant residences. Spring is delightful in Seville, Konda, and Granada ; and Asturias, Galicia, and the Spanish Pyrenees may be visited in April, May, and June. It must be borne in mind that, with the exception of Andalusia and Valencia, winter in Spain is almost as severe as it is in the northern countries of Europe ; and in Asturias the snow makes the roads literally impracticable, and diligences cease running during the severest months. Tourists will do well not to dare the arrowy sunbeams in July and August, and even September, nor to expose themselves to the icy blasts of Castile and the N. during winter. Invalids who intend wintering in the S. of Spain can either proceed thither by Barcelona and Valencia, along the Mediterranean, or by sea from Marseilles to either Valencia or GENERAL INFORMATION Alicante and Malaga, or by Atlantic steamers direct to Lisbon, Cadiz, or Gibraltar. The direct railway route through France and by Castile and Madrid is more expensive and more exposed to cold, but the express through trains are admirably appointed. How TO TRAVEL The finest scenery in Spain is in Andalusia and in the N.E. and N.W. portions ; the most interesting cities are in Andalusia and Castile. Spain may be entered in a variety of ways, and this must be decided by the tourist himself. The cheapest is by sea from Southampton or London to Cadiz. In this way the principal cities might be visited, except Granada, at a comparatively small expense, and in about a fortnight viz, Cadiz (where stay) ....... i day. Seville, by rail . . . . . . 2 ,, Cordoba, rail . . . . . . i .. Madrid (Toledo, Escurial), rail . . . 3 > Burgos, rail . . . . . . I ,, Bayonne, rail. , and embark to London or Liverpool here or at Bordeaux ; the cost would be about 50. 1. Direct from England to Spain by sea, either from Southampton or London to Cadiz or Gibraltar, 4 or 5 days ; or from Liverpool to Cortina, Yigo, Lisbon, or Gibraltar. 2. From France, A, by Paris, Bordeaux, and Bayonne. Time. Paris to Bordeaux, 9 hrs. by express and 14 hrs. by slow (omnibus) train. Bordeaux to Bayonne, 4^ hrs. by express and 6 hrs. by slow. GENERAL INFORMATION. Cook's International Travelling Tickets are available for one or more tourists by any train, steamer, or diligence. There are, besides, cheap services of tickets for circular journeys in Spain and Portugal, by about 6, to complete viajes circttlares of 85 days, costing about ^17 (first class). Tickets may be obtained at the principal termini, or through any good tourist agent. B. From Paris by Lyons, Avignon, Montpellier, Perpignan. Kil. Miles. Express Train. ist Class. 2d Class. 3 d Class. Paris to Lyons .... 230 143 ii hrs. 20 min. S6fr. Soc. 42fr. 6oc. 3ifr. 25C. Tarascon (branch line to ^ Montpellier and Cette) . ) 21 28 i 7 5 hrs. 36 min. 28fr. loc 2ifr. IDC. *& 45C. Montpellier . . 4Q 3ol Cette (branch to Bordeaux, | o hrs.), 476 kil. . . . | Narbonne (branch to Tou- ) louse), 140 kil., 3 hrs. . j 28 63 44 39^ 3 hrs. 5 min. 5 hrs. 5 min. nfr. 75C. 8fr. Soc. nir. oc 6fr. 4 5 c. 8fr. sc. ' 1002 ; 623 25 hrs. 6 min. nifr. 3oc. Ssfr. soc. 6ifr. 2oc. TRAVELLING. xi C. From Marseilles to Barcelona, Malaga, or Alicante by sea (see those cities). D. Paris to Bordeaux, Toulouse, Narbonne, to Perpiguan, in 24 hrs. 29 m. At Perpignan, rail to Barcelona (see latter). A Complete Tour through Spain can be performed in about 70 days to 3 months, staying 1 day generally in most places. The principal cities and most interesting scenery are comprised. Bayonne to Bilbao, by steamers, dil., riding, or rail. Santander, do.' do. do. Gijon, do. do. do. Oviedo, rail (whence either to Leon by rail), or Coruna, dil., riding along sea-coast, steamer from Gijon, or by Leon rail. Santiago, dil. Vigo, rail and dil. Leon by rail. Burgos, rl. (by Valencia and V. de Banos). Valladolid, rl., and to Medina, rl., whence rail to Salamanca, and back to Valladolid, or direct to Madrid, rl. Cordova, rl. Seville, rl. Cadiz, rl. Gibraltar, St., dil., or riding (excursion to Tangier). Malaga, by St., riding, by Marbellaj or by Ronda. Granada, by rl. or riding. Murcia by rail or dil. or ride to Almeria, whence to Cartagena, by St. and rl., to Murcia, or avoid it by st. from Mai. to Alicante. Alicante, by rail through Orihuela, or by rail through Chinchilla. Valencia, by rail or st. Tarragona, by rail. Barcelona, by rail (to Perpignan by rail), or Zaragoza, by rail. Bayonne (by rl. through Pamplona and S. Sebastian). A Short Tour the easiest and most rapid. Bayonne to Burgos (cathedral), by rl. ; stay i day. Madrid, Picture-Gallery, rl. 4 days (i for Toledo : Cathedral ; i for Escorial : Church). Cordova, rail (mosque), i day. Seville (Cathedral, Murillos), 2 days. Cadiz, rl. (the bay) half-day. Gibraltar, st. (or avoid it and come back to Cordova, whence by rl. to), half-day. Malaga st. (scenery), i day. Granada, rail (Alhambra), 2 days. Valencia, rl. from' Gran. ; return by rl. to Cordova, whence to Alcazar Branch St., and dir. to Valencia (Huerta Gardens), i day. Tarragona, rl. (cathedral), i day ; general tourists may avoid it, and continue on to Barcelona, rl. (churches, scenery), i day. Zaragoza, rl. (two cathedrals), i day, or enter France by Perpignan to Toulouse and Lyons. Bayonne, rl. (cath. exc. to Biarritz), i day, whence to Paris by Bordeaux. This tour, which allows one to see the creme of Spain, may be accom- plished in 30 days ; and is besides, on the whole, the cheapest. If coming from Marseilles, and including the Balearic Islands and Portugal in the tour, the following is suggested : Marseilles to Barce- lona ; then to Balearic Islands, Valencia, Malaga, Granada, Cordova, Seville, Cadiz ; embark there for Lisbon, whence by rail to Madrid (Toledo, Aranjuez, and Escorial), and return to France by Burgos and Bayonne Xii GENERAL INFORMATION. RAILWAYS. A net of railways is fast spreading over Spain, and the lines now connect all the principal cities and traverse most picturesque provinces. To those, therefore, who do not intend to make a close sur- vey of every nook and corner, but wish merely to see the cream of Spain, in a comfortable, safe, and speedy manner, we certainly recommend to follow, as much as possible, the lines of ferro-carriles, which will save time, jolting in diligences, imposition, and trouble. Now, travellers can reach Cadiz from Paris (through Madrid, Cordova, Seville, and Jerez), without quitting the train. The lines are well managed, partly by Frenchmen ; the carriages are good and spacious, and hours of departure and arrival observed as punctually as can be expected. Travellers should not forget to employ the very cheap circular tickets whenever available (see advertisements in Time-tables, Papers, etc.) ; also to send their luggage by 'double pequena' if very bulky. The principal companies are, ' Ferro Carril del Norte/ Madrid to Bayonne, and ' F. C. de Zaragoza,' Madrid to Zaragoza and Barcelona ; the Madrid and Alicante to Valencia, and the Seville and Cordova in the South. They were con- structed by foreign engineers, French especially, and with English and French capital. They are well organised, on the French system. The average rate of speed is about 15 miles an hour. The buffets are not extortionate, are good, and kept by French restaurateurs. The monthly Indicador de los Gaminos de Hierro de Espana y Portugal is fairly accu- rate and useful. THE ROAD. DILIGENCES and Malle-poste. Dils. are generally divided into three compartments. The first is called lerlina (in French coupe), and holds three persons. It is the most agreeable in summer, but cold in winter, and the dearest of the three. The seats are thus placed : 1, 3, 2. The 2d compartment is called el interior, and holds three or four, and some- times is made to hold six persons, and corresponds to 2d class by rail : the movement is the best of the three. The 3d compartment is la ro- tonda: the movement is very bad, and the society not very select. The dickey, above, called coupe, or imperial (in French, banquette), is the cheapest, and we recommend it to men or ladies who do not mind climb- ing, as it is the pleasantest in spring and summer ; but in whiter it is the last place to take. Some dils. have two berlinas. The rate of speed is about 2 leagues an hour, more usually 2, and the price 5 to 7r. a league. The coachman or conductor is called mayoral; he has the responsible care of travellers and carriage, and usually drives himself. The zagal is the man who runs by the side of the mules, whipping the laggards, and encouraging them with oaths, and calling to them by their names. The postilion is called 'el delantero/ and is usually a boy between 12 and 19, who has sometimes to ride for three days and three nights incessantly. The mayoral is paid 20r. a day, the zagal 14r., TRAVELLING. xiil and the post-boy lOr. It is usual to give him a fee, 2, 4, 6r. ; if a long journey, and he has been civil, give the mayoral a 5f. piece. The mules, 8, 10, and sometimes even 14 to a team, are strong, hardy, but vicious animals, worth about 2000r. to 5000r. and 6000r. The baggage allowed is 15 kils. (30 Ibs.) The exces de poids is high. We caution travellers against unfair weighing in different dil. offices, to avoid which they had oetter see it weighed before leaving on their journey, and note it down. Ladies had better carry as little as possible, and if they intend to ride some time, had better be provided with a small portmanteau to fasten on a horse, and strong leather bags. Sacs de voyage, travelling toilet-cases, and the like, are cumbersome, and exposed to rough handling. Riding is the most pleasant way of travelling, provided one is strong and disposed to rough it. Always attend to the provend fill the bota } and become friends with your guide, who, if you give yourself any 1 humos (airs), will either leave you in the lurch, or not make it plea- sant ; instead of which, with some puros, and a compliment to the horses and the country, you may obtain a deal of information, and often some capital and well-told stories full of salt and couleur locale, to beguile the way. The usual charges are 3 Or. to $2 a-day for a horse, not paying his keep ; and one dollar to the guide, without paying his feeding or lodgings, The price for a bed and supper at a venta is about from 12r. to 2 Or. a night in the South, and even cheaper in the North. Always allow the guide to settle about the inns to put up at, and the hours of starting, but attend yourself to the provend, and girt the saddle and see to the bridle and shoeing of your horse. As for robbers, none are to be found in Spain, but a revolver is a companion commanding respect. It will be as well to acquaint the riding tourist with several terms used in such expeditions to design bridle-roads, etc. Trocha, a short cut out of the common road ; camino de kerradura, bridle-road, literally horse-shoe road ; sendero or senda, a pathway a way just marked out by the foot of the smuggler and labourer ; camino de perdices, road of par- tridges difficult, found out rather by instinct than otherwise ; camino real or carretera, Government road high road ; arrecifes, name given in Andalusia to high roads or causeways chausse'es ; travesia and camino de atajOy a short cut a bye- way ; rambla, a sort of road ; or better, bed of river, which being dry in summer serves as a road, etc. The ordinary pace is lj league an hour. Mules are sometimes preferable to horses, as having a better and steadier pace and surer foot. Side-saddles for ladies are recommended in preference to a chair, sometimes placed on one side, which, however, may be adopted, except where hilly districts are to be traversed. Return of horses and men is always understood in the bargain, where the contrary has not been speci- fied. The principal riding tours are in Andalusia and Asturias, and some in the Spanish Pyrenees. Where the country abounds in pictur- XIV GENERAL INFORMATION. esque scenery, and when undertaken in autumn or spring, this mode of travelling will prove a source of great enjoyment, of health and manly exertion. Without a ride in the South a voyage to Spain cannot be called complete, and we must say with Lord Byron Though sluggards deem it but an idle chace, And marvel men should quit their easy chair, The toilsome way, and long, long league to trace, Oh ! there is sweetness in the mountain air, And life, that bloated ease can never hope to share. Posting is no longer resorted to now-a-days. Galeras. Waggon-carts covered over, without springs, performing 7 or 8 leagues a-day, at a slow pace, and dragged by some 8, 10, or 12 mules. They stop for the night at the posada, ventas, or ventorillo. It is a very slow and fatiguing way of travelling, and riding is by far pre- ferable. Pedestrianism is unknown in Spain, and scarcely to be thought of, except in Asturias, Galicia, and the Pyrenees. Arrieros may be joined in long riding-tours ; they are, together with cosarios, ordinaries, and ma- ragatos, the regular muleteers and carriers that are met with on Span- ish roads. Velocipede tours are in many districts favoured by long stretches of flat and excellent roads. They are especially agreeable in Portugal and the N.W. Spain, and no longer excite undue curiosity. STEAMERS. The P. and 0. steamers, the Royal Mail, Cunard, and Pacific Steam Co. have superior speed and accommodation. Messrs. Hall's steamers leave London weekly for Lisbon, Gibraltar, Malaga and Cadiz. Messrs. MacAndrew's steamers run at frequent intervals to the principal ports on the Atlantic and Mediterranean. There is regular steam communication between Seville, Cadiz and Marseilles ; also between Marseilles, the east ports and Oran. The boats of the Compania Trasatlantica can be utilised for most of the Mediterranean and western ports. The Spanish steamers, except those of the Company Lopez, are neither fast nor comfortable. The cabins are called camarotes de la, 2a, y 3 a clase. Children under three years of age do not pay ; from 3 to 7, only half-passage. The luggage allowed to each first and second class passenger varies from 80 to 100 kilog. Meals are generally not included in the ticket ; 10 to 12r. a breakfast, and 14 to 16r. dinner. Yachting. The principal ports to visit are Bilbao, Gijon, Coruna, Vigo (Portugal, Oporto, Lisbon), Seville, Cadiz, Gibraltar, Malaga, Ali- cante, Valencia, and Barcelona. The Commandante del Puerto is the chief authority. The best season is summer and autumn. PASSPORTS. According to decree of December 17, 1862 ; no passports are required from foreigners entering Spain, or from Spaniards going to England or TRAVELLING. XV France. Foreigners are, however, liable to be called upon by local Spanish authorities to declare their nationality, and object of their jour- ney. Any document establishing the identity, or a declaration signed by two witnesses, residents at the place where it may be required, and purporting their knowledge of the traveller's name, will suffice. These are scarcely ever required ; but an English passport, vise by a Spanish Consul, is the safest companion. POST-OFFICE. Until the 15th century, news, letters, and Government orders were transmitted in Spain by horsemen, and more especially by foot messen- gers, andarines (pedestrians), like the hemerodromes of the Greeks, and the Koman cur sores. Philip the Fair and his Queen Dona Juana were the first to establish posting regulations, and made the office of Maestro Mayor de Hostes, Postas y Correos, a very important one, which became hereditary. In the busy reigns of Charles V. and Philip II. this appoint- ment was no sinecure, as couriers were always ' on the wing,' carrying orders to all parts of the world. Letters were entrusted to especial esta- fetas, but subsequently the Government couriers took charge of them. The first vehicles used were light carts (about 1642), and the first mail- coaches, sillas de Posta (postchaises), began to run in 1739. Offices were established only in the principal cities, and until 1759 only one distri- bution of letters made a week. The first daily post establishment be- tween Bayonne and Madrid was begun in 1844. Shortly after a diligence service was established, and we remember going from Madrid to Bayonne by that last means in six days, sleeping, hacienda nocke, every night. Be- fore 1840 those about to undertake a journey in Spain called a priest, a doctor, and an Escribano, confessed, took medicine, and wrote their will. Letter-writing has of late years increased in proportion as letter-boxes have been established, the distribution made daily, and the stamps (sellos) di- minished in price. The total number of letters in 1846 was 19,044,958 ; in 1886, 128,417,000. Letters. Their delivery is well regulated, and, foreign letters some- times excepted, most of them end by arriving al puerto. Letters are never opened save during exceptional pronunciamiento moments and elec- tioneering time. Letters are addressed either to the correspondent's resi- dence, to which they are taken by the postman (el cartero), or left at the box till called for, poste restante, in Spanish Correo. Sr. Don stands for Senor Don (usual mode of letter address) ; Pral. for Principal, the first floor ; 2. the 2d floor ; dha. for derecha, door on the right ; izda. for izquierda, left. If writing to a foreigner, poste restante (write Lista del correo at the bottom of the envelope), omit as much as possible all such words as Chris- tian names, titles, Esq., etc., and confine yourself to writing very legibly the surname. This will avoid loss of letters, and the confusion often arising from the difficulties experienced by the Spanish post-office clerks in de- XVI GENERAL INFORMATION. ciphering English names, and besides it facilitates research, as all letters addressed poste restante (correo} are sorted alphabetically, or according as they arrive. Thus, also, the addresses are copied and exposed on boards at the post-offices. Let the tourist, who will visit this building before any other, look into these lists ; when he finds his name down, let him take the number corresponding to it, write it clearly, and give it to an empleado. The passport is sometimes asked for, or in lieu an old letter- cover, or a card, will be sufficient to establish identity. We also advise tourists to go themselves to claim their letters, and also to post them, as * les voyageurs ont toujours tort.' If staying any time in the same town, letters had better be addressed to the residence. A cuarto is then paid to the cartero for every letter or newspaper. There is also a correo inte- rior distributed gratis in the town with a 2-cuartos stamp. The address consists then of the Senor Don, Christian name, surname, street, number, floor, etc., and at the foot ' correo interior.' Travellers and residents may also have a separate division for their letters, and an earlier delivery of them, by paying a fixed sum for this division, called el apartado viz. 240r. per annum in Madrid ; 200r. in some cities ; 160r., lOOr., and 80r only in others. The charge for postage is by weight, irrespective of dis- tance. The stamps are called sellos ] to frank, franquear; an address, sobrescrito and las senas. Vocabulary for the Post-Office. The office, el despacho. A letter, una carta. Postage-stamps, sellos del correo. A telegram, un telegramo (or) un parte telegrafico. Where is the post-office 1 D6nde estd el correo ? Where is the telegraph-office ? Donde estd la oficina del telegrafo ? Are there any letters for me 1 Hay cartas para mi ? Here is my name (or) passport. Este es mi apellido (or) pasaporte. Where is the list ? D6nde estd la lista ? Give me postage-stamps. Deme usted sellos de franqueo ; foreign stamps, sellos para el extrangero ; Spanish stamps, sellos para el interior Is this letter too heavy 1 Bobrepesa esta carta ? How much is it 1 Cudnto vale ? Must this letter be prepaid 1 H ay que franquear esta carta ? Will this telegram go to-day ? Se puede mandar hoy este despacho ? Is the office closed ? Estd cerrado el despacho ? The postman. El cartero. TRAVELLING. xvil Stamp Tariff. Letters for the Peninsula and Isles. 15 centimes for 15 grammes. But if within same town 10 cents, for any weight. Do. to England, France, Germany, Russia, and United States 25 cents, for every 15 grammes. Newspapers 5 centimes for every 50 grammes. Pamphlets and papers fastened with an open band (faja) for directing. To any part of Spain 1 cent, for every 50 grammes. To England, France, etc., 5 centimes for every 50 grammes. Post-cards. All parts 10 centimes. All letters must be prepaid, or they will be charged double. Fee for registration. 75 centimes. N.B. A single letter must not exceed 15 gramos. The tariff is likely to undergo changes. Stamps are to be found at all tobacconists (estancos). The boxes are called buzones. Registered letters are called cartas certificadas, and require special stamps obtained at and from the Post-office. TELEGRAPH. Telegraphs began to be established about 1855, and now connect the whole country. The lines are all in the hands of the Government. There are day and night services in all the principal cities. A tele- gram, un despacho telegrdfico, may be written in French, but we advise correspondents in Spain to write theirs in Spanish. The tariff is as follows : For messages of 15 words, including address and signature, for any part of Spain 1 peseta ; for every word beyond fifteen 10 cents. (For places within the same province only half these rates are charged.) For telegrams to France, 20 centimos per word, with a tax upon each message liable to variation of about 1 peseta 50 cents. To England, 44 cents, per word, with a tax of about 2 pesetas upon each message. Special telegraph stamps are required ; they may be obtained either in an adjacent office or in an estanco. Every word put down address, signature, etc. is counted; also all syl- lables or words connected by a hyphen or apostrophe. The maximum extension of a word for European correspondence is fifteen characters, for extra-European ten characters. The writer of a message, by paying the cost of a telegram of ten words, may obtain from the office with which he is communicating an " acuso de recibo," by which he may know b xviii GENERAL INFORMATION. whether his telegram has been received at the office to which it was sent. He has then to add after the text, and before the signature, the words. ' Acuso de recibo.' By putting in the same place the words, ' Colecci- onese,' and by paying over again half the cost of the telegram, he will obtain a duplicate of it sent by the office to which he transmits it. For an answer -paid, he will write in the same place * repuesta (so many) palab- ras.' A receipt is always given by the office clerk to the telegram writer. The carriage of a telegram to the residence of the parties to whom it is addressed is 2r. Telegrams can be sent paste restante ( l correo *) and fol- low the tourists who have informed the postmaster of the place they are going to, etc. HOTELS AND LODGINGS. A hotel is generally called La Fonda (from fondak, Arabicd, a cara- vanserai). Posada (rest, repose, which it seldom affords) is the hotel at small country places, of carriers, and is but a degree higher than a meson, the arrieros' usual inn. A Venta is a bye-way meson, where the accom- modation and food are equally bad. A Ventorro and Ventorillo are mere roadside pot-houses, where a bed is seldom to be found. La Taberna is the cabaret, the wine-shop. A Fonda is called sometimes a Parador, from its being the inn where diligences stop (parar) for meals at differ- ent hours : lodging, meals (with wine), and service are usually included in the price. The charges in large cities vary from 35r. to 45r., but 30r. may be taken as an average. The table d'h6te (mesa redonda) is gener- ally resorted to, although the company is often of a mixed character ; to put on a good face and pass on the dish to a neighbour is the surest way to avoid remarks and a bad dinner. The cuisine is now-a-clays al estilo de Francia, and does not deserve the critique of the fastidious traveller. The Puchero is always served ; it is wholesome, abundant, and devoid of garlic and oil. The wine can be drunk with water. Never ask for either tea or coffee, except in the first-class hotels, but take them with you from England or Paris, and renew the provision at Gibraltar. Waiters at hotels, called camareros, are paid 2r. a-day ; the maid, doncella or criada, about the same. There are in cities casas de pupilos and de huespedes, or lodgings, where meals at mesa redonda are included. The terms vary from 2 Or. to 34r. a-day. A very comfortable room can be obtained for 2 Or. a-day. Those that are to let have a piece of white paper placed on a corner of the balcony. "When not furnished, the paper is placed in the middle. Living is in this latter way exceedingly cheap. Indeed, by knowing ho\v to manage, an economical bachelor (and there are such beings in the world) can live at the rate of 8 to ,10 a-month. Young artists who have to make their way in the world, and to whom economy is a great object, often refrain from a journey to this land of art, from fear of the GEOGRAPHY AND STATISTICS. xix expenses of travelling. This consideration should not deter them. Let them travel two or three together, learn a few of the most useful phrases in Spanish ; they can go 2d class by steamers from England to Cadiz. There, if they do not prefer the railway, and wish to see the scenery at leisure, they will purchase mules for 20 each, which will be sold for .15; and by roughing it a little, joining the arrieros, etc., they will be able to live for 4s. a-day, keeping besides the macho. M. Desbarolles, a French painter, went thus with a brother artist all over Spain, and pub- lished his tour, ' Deux Artistes en Espagne.' Geography and Statistics. SPAIN is situate between north lat. 36 43 47', and west long. 9 17' to east long. 3 20'. Its greatest length, from east to west, is 560 miles, and breadth, from north to south, 540 miles Eng. The surface contains 193,000 sq. miles (three times more than England). The longest days and nights are in the northern portion, of 15 hrs. 15 min., and in the south, of 14 hrs. 30 min. Geographical division, based on climate, is out of the question in a country that contains such variety of temperature under the same degree of latitude : that based on the physical configuration is easer. According to Mr. Bory de St. Vin- cent, Spain may be divided into seven distinct chains of mountains : 1. Pyrencean Comprises the Pyrenees, and the Asturian or Cantabric range. 2. Iberian Contains the Sierra de Molina, Moncayo, Oca, Albar- razin, and Cuenca, which form that vast reservoir from which the four largest rivers flow into the Mediterranean and the Atlantic ocean namely, Guadalaviar or Turia, Gabriel, Jucar, and the Tagus. The Sierra de Espadan rises here also, extending to the sea-coast. 3. Carpetano- Vettonian Constituted by the reunion of the Sierras de Guadarrama and Somosierra, which thus divide the Castiles. It com- prises also the group of the Gredas hills, Sierra de Gata, extending to Portugal. Here are especially found those immense, denuded, wind- blown table-lands called paramos, which have a great influence on this climate. 4. The Lusitanian zone is the lowest and less important of all the Sierras, and belongs more especially to New Castile and Estremadura. It is placed between Somosierra on the north, the Molina and Cuenca ranges to east and south-east, Guadarrama to north-east, and Sierra Morena to south. 5. Marian (Montes Mariani) is constituted by the Sierra Morena. It is the most metalliferous of all in Spain. 6. Guncean Formed by the range of hills that extend from Porta- legre, towards the south, between the Alemtejo and Algarves. It is but a prolongation of the Lusitanian zone. XX GENERAL INFORMATION. 7. The Bcetican comprises the extreme southern or Andalusian por- tion namely, the ranges of Honda, Alhama, Tejada, and Sierra Nevada. Thus the whole country, a vast agglomeration of mountains, com- parable to a gigantic pyramid half-way severed, rises on an average in the central portions 2000 to 3000 ft. above the sea (the central table- land is about 93,000 square miles). There are valleys situated con- siderably above 6000 ft. These lofty ranges, were they seen from a baloon, would give one the idea of the mighty skeleton or carcase of a shipwrecked leviathan, whose bones protrude through the tawny skin and verdant soil. These intersect the surface in every sense, and have been most effective in creating differences of race, laws, and history. RIVERS. The Ebro rises near Reynosa, flows for 450 miles, and empties its waters into the Mediterranean near Amposta. The Duero (Douro in Portuguese) rises in the Sierra de Urbion, north of Soria ; flows by Zamora for 460 miles, and is emptied into the Atlantic below Oporto. The Tagus (el Tqjo) rises in the hills of Albarrazin, and after a course of 600 miles, flows into the Atlantic at Lisbon. The Guadiana rises in the Mancha, near Almagro, crosses Estremadura, and flows after a course of 520 miles into the ocean at Ayamonte. The Guadalquivir rises in the gorges of Sierra de Cazorla, then, after a course of 400 miles, empties itself into the Atlantic near Cadiz. There are besides 60 to 70 minor ones, with thousands of tributaries. The beds of rivers in Spain are generally dry in summer, and become torrents in the winter and spring. CANALS. Canal Imperial de Aragon, begun in the reign of Charles III., formed with the waters from the Ebro, navigable from El Bocal to Almenara, and beyond used only for irrigation. Canal of Castile, 152 kil. long, from Alar del Key to Valladolid ; navigable; begun 1753. Canal of San Fernando, not completed : the object is to make all the Guadalquivir navigable. Canal de la Albufera (Valencia) not concluded ; 30 kil. long ; begins at Sueca. Canal de Urgel, for irrigation. Canal de Isabel II. ; the most important ; the object, to supply Madrid and the provinces with water. Canal de JEsla, begun in 1864 by English engineers, and finished in the (for Spain) remarkably short space of five years, for irrigation purposes. Spain was formerly divided into fourteen large provinces, called by different names Reinos (kingdoms), Seiiorios, Principados, etc. In 1841 this classification disappeared, and the country is now divided into forty- nine provinces. The provinces are : Alava, Albacete, Alicante, Almeria, Avila, Badajoz, Balearic Islands, Barcelona, Burgos, Caceres, Cadiz, Canary Islands, Castellon, Ciudad Real, Cordova, Coruna, Cuenca, Gerona, Granada, Gaudalajara, Guipuzcoa, Huelva, Huesca, Jaen, Leon, Lerida, Logrono, Lugo, Madrid, Murcia, Malaga, Navarra, Orense, Oviedo, Palencia, Pontevedra, Salamanca, Santander, Segovia, Seville, Soria, GEOLOGY. XXI Tarragona, Teruel, Toledo, Valencia, Valladolid, Vizcaya, Zamora, Zara- goza. It is ecclesiastically divided into nine archbishoprics and forty- six bishoprics, and militarily into seventeen Capitanias-Generales. The Population amounted in 1884 to 17,000,000, or 88 inhabitants to the square mile. In the reign of Philip II. it was only 8,206,791. The standing army numbers 100,000 men ; the navy comprises 126 ships (7 ironclads) with 356 guns, 14 torpedoes, and about 22,000 men. For details on the trade, education, and everything connected with statistics, we refer our readers to the ' Anuario Estadistico de Espana/ which is published annually ; to the ' Revista de Estadistica,' published at Madrid and Barcelona ; to Sr. Garrido's excellent ' Espagne Conteniporaine ;' Bruxelles, 1862 ; Nervo's ' Espagne en 1867.' MAPS. The best maps of Spain are those published by Sr. D. Francisco Coello. His Atlas of Spain and Ultramarine possessions, on the scale., of aoo 1 000 , is being completed. The map of Spain, ordered by Government and entrusted to an especial Commission of Officers, is far from being finished. We recommend Cabanes' map, found in his ' Guia General,' useful as a general travelling-map ; but those who seek for more details and greater exactitude, those travelling in especial districts, riding or walking tourists, will do well to provide themselves with the Atlas of Madoz's Dictionary. Monsieur Dufour has also published separate maps of provinces, with routes. We recommend also, * Dic- cionario Geografico-estadistico Historico ' of Madoz and Coello, 1 6 vols. 4 to. Madrid 1848-50. Its price is high, but the contents are of great value and the statements are generally trustworthy. The Mapa Itinerario Militar is detailed and fairly accurate, but shows no mountain ranges. Of the Pyrenees M. Le'zat's general map (Paris, Chaix), or that drawn up by the French Military Engineers. Geology. IT would be a mistake to suppose that Spain is terra incognita to geolo- gists. Many regions there are, doubtless, where the hammer has not as yet sounded, but many more have been studied with care and intelli- gence, as well by native geologists as by foreign, and the list of works we subjoin will leave little doubt on the subject. According to the savants who have explored this country, Spain is a most interesting field, and the study of its geological formations of a nature to enrich the science generally. Bounded on the N. by the Pyrenees and Cantabric range, Spain is traversed obliquely, from E.N.E. to W.S.W., by four orological systems or ranges, viz. 1. The Sierra Guadarrama, which is joined to the Sierras de Gredas, Gata, Estrella, and extends to the ocean. 2. The Montes de Toledo. 3. Sierra Morena, forming the promontory to S.W. called Cape St. Vincent. 4. The Southern range, which comprises the xxii GENERAL INFORMATION. Sierra Nevada, Tejada, and Honda. They are, of course, of different periods. The earliest are in the centre of the Peninsula viz. Montes of Toledo and Sierra Morena. This nucleus is entirely palaeozoic. No portion of the secondary period is noticeable, not even the oldest triassic limestone. The carboniferous deposits are situated on the southern part of the range. They generally contain in the lower portion limestone, with fossils ; among them the Productus semireticulatiis. The coal is found with conglomerates and limestone. The most important deposits are those of Belmez, Espiel, and Yillanueva del Rio, near Seville. As in Asturias, the strata are raised and often vertical. Devonian rocks are well de- veloped in the N. and S. of Almaden, and appear alternately with Silurian strata. The fossils are found in grit and limestone, more rarely in schists. The principal are : Productus subaculeatus, Zeptcena dutertrii, Spirifer verneili, Spirigera concentrica, etc. The upper Silurian rocks are not so fully represented as the Devonian. There are traces some 19 miles N.E. of Cordova. But the lower Silurian rocks are well characterised in this range and the Montes de Toledo. They follow an ascendant direction, N. to S. The lower strata are composed of schists and prammites, then comes a thick mass of quartzite, not unlike the Stiperstone found near Caradoc. This rock forms the summits or edges, extending from E. to W., and also 10 to 15 N., 10 to W., or 15 S. At their base are situated the rich quicksilver mines of Almaden. The Silurian fossils are found in dark-coloured schists. The trilobites are better preserved ; the principal are : Calymenetristarii, Asaphus nobilis, Dalmania, Phillipsia 3 etc. 1. Guadarrama Range. Towards the S. and E. slopes carboniferous schists are met, especially near Tamajon, Valdesotos, Retienda, and Sierra of Burgos, where there are also traces of vegetable fossils (ferns). Fossil deposits are found also on the way from Hinarejos (province of Cuenca) to the coal-mines of El Vapor, at the points called ' El Castel- lano,' and ' El Cerro del Hierro ' (the Devonian rocks contain iron here as well as in the Cantabric range). The principal fossils are : Dalmania (cryphceus) Calliteles, Spirifer , Terebratula guerangeri, Leptcena mur- ckisoni, etc. The Guadarrama range crosses obliquely the great central plateau of Spain. It is one of the highest and largest in this country. The gneiss and other crystalline schists that compose it are often mixed with granite. These represent some of the earliest rocks in Spain. According to Sr. Gas. del Prado, the crystalline rocks are crowned, to- wards the east, by schists and quartzite rocks, Silurian in all likelihood. Bilobites and saccharoid limestone are found. The strata of limestone which flank the Sierra have been by oscillation raised and again distorted by another, posterior to the miocene period ; and this explains the derangement of the deposits of that epoch. The ranges that frame the Peninsula to north and south are the most modern. GEOLOGY. xxili The Jurassic rocks are not generally as well represented as the tertiary deposits and limestone. Those in the province of Cuenca, Va- lencia, of Burgos, etc., are interesting. A very rich region of Jurassic fossils is situated north of Molina ; and beyond the Silurian axis of Pardos, Concha, Anchuela del Campo, Maranchon, etc., are worth visit- ing. All the species belong to the lias, and none indicate the presence of Oxfordshire rocks.-- There are 104 Jurassic fossils in Spain. The lias and Oxfordshire stages are found in the Jurassic formation. The latter extend over the east and south portions of Spain Catalonia, Valencia, Malaga, Konda and lie upon red sandstone. The Cantabric range, or prolongation of the Pyrenean system. Here Devonian rocks contain great Palaeozoic riches. The Devonian period would seem to have been accompanied by great displacements of the sea, for the deposits are often of sandstone and conglomerates. Bed sandstone, in thick masses, seems to be the base in Spain of the Devonian system. They are impregnated with iron ; whence the establishments of Mieres in Asturias, and of Sabero in Leon. The sandstone rocks are surmounted with thick calcareous rocks, which form those sharp indented peaks of so picturesque an effect in the plains of Castile. The road from Leon to Oviedo is very interesting to geologists. The districts that are richer in fossils are : Sabero in Leon, and Ferrones and Aviles in Asturias. Of these three there are about seventy-seven species known. They are indicative of the base of the Devonian formation, and constitute the German 'Jiingere Grauwacke.' The upper portion of this series is composed of red limestone. There are also schists near Sabero and the fossil Cardium palmatum. The Devonian rocks extend over most of the south portion of the Cantabric range, in the province of Leon. Its fuller development is towards the north region of Asturias, and lies to the east under the carboniferous strata. The longitudinal axis of the Pyrenees is surrounded by cretaceous deposits. On the north slopes, from Font- arabia, across San Sebastian to Cape Penas, the sea-coast is flanked by limestone cliffs, the strata sink under the sea, rise against the Cantabric axis, not without irregularity and dislocations. From north to south the cretaceous deposits extend 112 m. These abound mostly in the north of Spain, and are seldom met in the south, except near Malaga. The most important carboniferous deposits in Spain are situated on the two slopes of this range, especially in Asturias. The base is formed by thick limestone, very like Devonian rocks, and not unlike the scar limestone in the north of England. Above this there are some thin banks of the same alternately found with the first coal strata. In these are found well- preserved marine fossils, such as the Productus semireticulatus, Productus punctatus, Productus com, Spirifer mosquensis, etc., and the Fusulina cylindrica. The fossil plants belong to the ordinary flora found in most carboniferous deposits. Above are conglomerates and sandstone mixed XXIV GENERAL INFORMATION. with clay schists, to a depth of 2000 or 3000 metres. There are more than 80 coal-beds. The stratification is irregular, and the strata often raised up to a vertical position. The Nalon traverses the richest por- tion. The limestone, which forms the base, rises to the summits of the Cantabrie or Asturian range, and constitutes the hills of Cabrales, Covadonga, the picachos (or peaks) de Europa, as far as the sea, near Ribadesella, then continues to the east by the province of Santander and Palencia. According to several distinguished geologists (Mr. Forbes, etc.), Ireland must have been once joined, or very nearly so, to Spain, and to that cause is ascribed the similarity between portions of the flora and fauna of these two countries. Heights of the Principal Banges. Spanish. Pyrenees, East. Peak Ne'thou, 1 1, 1 68 ft. Monte Perdido, 10,994 ft. La Maladetta, 10,866 ft. Pass d'oo, between valleys of Larbouste and de Lassera (Ve'nasque), 9843 ft. Pass of Bielsa, between valleys of Neste d'Hune (Aragon), and of Puer- tolas, 8396 ft. Spanish Pyrenees, West, or Cantabrie (Asturian} Range. Pena de Penaranda (Leon), 11,031 ft. (?) Peak of Penamerata, 9450 ft. Cum de Poyales (Santander), 4559 ft. Sierra Morena. Puerto del Rey (Prov. of Jaen), 2251 (auth. Betancourt). Gnadarrama. Penalara (Segovia), 8240 (auth. Bauza). Monte del Leon de los 2 Castillas (Prov. of Madrid), 4657. Cum de Mondalindo (Prov. Gaudalajara), 6045 (auth. Bauza), Peak of Sierra Cebollera (Prov. Soria), 6929 (auth. Conde de Villa Fuentes). Siete Picos (Segovia), 7298 (auth. Bauza). Sierra Nevada. Mula Hacen (Granada) 11,781 (auth. Clemente). Picacho de la Veleta (Granada) 11,597 (auth. Clemente). Alberea de Duenas, 6272 ft. (auth. R. Clemente). Sierra Gador, 7130 ft. (R. Clemente). Lower line of snow on Sierra Nevada (i5th August 1804), 9064 ft. (auth. R. Clemente. Penas Blancas, 7605 ft. (auth. R. Clemente). See also for a mi Societ^ de Geogra] For other heights of Sierra Nevada see page 202. more ample list of heights, besides Bauza's, that published about 1831 by the iphie of Paris, in ' Orologie Francaise.' Bilbao, 73 ft. Burgos, 2873 ft. Escorial, 3683 ft. Granada, 2681 ft. HEIGHT OF SOME CITIES. Gibraltar (Rock), 294 ft. Jerez, 571 ft. Madrid, 2384 ft. Murcia, 447 ft- Segovia (Castle), 2209 ft Valencia, 95 ft. Zaragoza, 899 ft. MINES XXV Books of Reference. J. B. Carrasco's ' Geografia general de Espafia ' (1861), contains a general account of the geology of the country. ' Spain,' in Sampson Low's ' Foreign Countries ' gives also a good brief sketch of the subject. The geologist will find in the Boletin and Memoires of the ' Comision del Mapa Geologico de Espana,' published in yearly volumes, sketch maps and careful descriptions of the geology of most of the provinces, with a great deal of useful topographical information. Many of these can be bought separately. The best Geological Map of Spain is that of Botella (Madrid, 1880). On the geology of Galicia and the Asturias a splendid work has been published by M. Charles Barrois (Lille, 1882). On the geology of the Pyrenees there are numerous papers, and a geological map of the Basque country in the * Bulletins of the Societe Ramond V.Y.' (Bagneres de Bigorre), and in the ' Bulletins of the Societe Geologique de France,' by P. W. Stuart Menteath. The above are new and reliable books of reference ; but there are older works which, if somewhat behind recent investigations, the student may pro- fitably consult. The following may be mentioned : 1. VerneuiFs ' Coup d'oeil sur la Constitution geologique de plusieurs Provinces de 1'Espagne' (Paris, 1853). M. Verneuil was a collaborates with Sir Roderick Murchison, and his large and complete geological map of Spain is still of great value. 2. Ezquerra del Bay o : * On the Geology of Spain,' Quarterly Journal, vol. vi., 1850. By the same author, ' Estructura Geologica de Espana,' Memorias de la Real Academia de Ciencias de Madrid, 1850, vol. ix. 3. The ' Memoirs of the Barcelona and Madrid Academy of Sciences ; ' the * Dictionaries ' of Madoz and Mifiano, etc. 4. Hausmann : ' De Hispaniae Constitutione Geognostica Dissertatio ' (Gottingen, 1829) ; also his papers ' Sur la Constitution Geologique de 1'Espagne ' in the Annales des Mines, 2d series, vol. iii., p. 375. 5. Wilkomnfs ' Die Strand,' etc., on the Steppes of the Peninsula (Leipzig, 1852) contains a map which botanists may also find useful. Mines. THE mining wealth of Spain lias been always far famed. The Phoe- nicians were the first people who worked the exhaustless mines of Tarshish (Andalusia), and the accounts of writers such as Strabo (book iii.), Ovid, Siculus, Justin, Pliny, etc., do but confirm, if it were needful, the descriptions of the Spanish mines which we find in Scripture (1 Mace. viii. 3 ; 1 Kings x. 21 ; Jer. x. 9, etc.) Love of gold has been often, almost always, the prime mover of all projects of conquest, war, and discovery, and Spain was the Peru of the Phoenicians and Eomans. When America was discovered, a narrow policy prohibited the working of the Spanish mines, and exclusively favoured those of the New World. The quicksilver mines of Almaden were exempted, because they sent to Mexico yearly 5000 to 6000 quintals of ore (quintal 10j Ibs.), neces- XXVI GENERAL INFORMATION. sary for the extraction of the precious metals. Government had the monopoly of mines until 1820, when it ceased. The precious metals imported by the Government from America between 1492 and 1803 amounted to the value of ninety millions of dollars, according to Humboldt and Ustariz. The consequent stimulus given to the mining interest was soon felt. Thus, before 1820, the Royal oficinas only pro- duced 30,000 to 40,000 quintals a-year. In 1823 the produce rose to 500,000 quintals. In 1824 the mining legislation was assimilated to that of France. In 1826 there were more than 3500 mines being worked in the Sierras of Gadar and Lagar alone, and in 1827 the produce exceeded 800,000 quintals. Mining schools (Escuelas de Minas) were established at Almaden and Madrid. Several young men were sent to study the most approved systems at Freyberg, in Saxony, etc. Foreign capitalists have undertaken the working la esplotacion of several of the richest mines ; foreign machinery, worked by foreign miners, has been introduced, and the wealth derived has been very considerable. The mining fever or mania commenced to rage here about 1825, just when it was in the wane in England. Many, most indeed, of the managers of the companies formed in the outset were ignorant, rash, over-confiden^ and in many cases dishonourable. Companies became hotbeds of law- suits and compromises, and, like the augurs of old, two managers could not meet each other without a laugh. This mania has subsided into a more business-like system, and the lesson has been profitable to all. The importation of Spanish ores to England is very considerable. Almost all the mercury supplied to England is derived from Spain from the great Almaden deposits. Although Spain now exports minerals to a very large and daily increasing amount, the production might be enormously enhanced were tramways and roads established. The improved processes for smelting, etc., will also augment the produce. Thus recently the Spanish homo economico (economical furnace) has been substituted for the slag hearth, etc. ; by this a better produce of lead is obtained from the refuse products of the mines. Again, a great deal of lead and silver is saved by Pattinson's desilvering process ; and when Mr. Burnett applied suc- cessfully the process introduced by Mr. Richardson at Blaydon (hard lead converted into soft lead by calcining) to the softening of Spanish lead, this discovery led to a very extensive trade between England and Spain. The ores on the east coast of Spain are smelted with Newcastle coal, and the hard lead is brought to England to be there softened and refined. Our annual imports are about 25,000 tons, mostly from Linares. This Linares lead contains but a small quantity of silver, but many Spanish lead mines are exceptionally argentiferous. There is also importation into England from Spain of cupreous pyrites, used by alkali makers for the manufacture of sulphuric acid. MINES. XXV11 In 1860 there were in Spain 1988 productive mines that is, that were worked occupying an area of 220,389,352 square metres. There were 3294 pertenencias , or rights of mining properties. 28,554 work- men employed, and thirty-nine steam-engines. The produce was : Mineral. Principal Mines. Metric Quintals. Mineral. Principal Mines. Metric Quintals. Iron . Almeria 1,755,029 Barilla . Madrid I 7S,573 Lead . Almeria 3,168,189 Antimony Zamora 600 Silver . Copper Lignite Pit-coal Guadalajara Huelva Guipuzcoa Oviedo 42,300 1,460,034 175,309 3,217,731 Zinc . . Quicksilver Asphalte . Manganese Santander Oviedo Alava Huelva 1,088,022 80,402 6,280 288,628 Sulphur Murcia 230,450 How much these figures have altered in twenty-nine years may be gathered from the fact that the Eio Tinto mines, near Huelva, alone raise over a million tons of cupreous pyrites in the year ; in 1887 the export of iron ore from Bilbao was 4,361,332 tons ; while the produce of quicksilver at Almaden during the year 1884 amounted to 43,100 frascoes, or 1,487,266 kilogrammes. (This exceeds the production of the famous Californian mines by over 11,000 frascoes. Since 1884 the production has remained almost stationary.) Hellin produces a variable quantity sometimes up to 2000 tons per annum of sulphur. Salt, a great monopoly, amounts to 3,916,919*02 quintals, value of lll,249,561'14r. The total revenue of the Government from its own mines, and contributions from others, amounts to 140,051, 7l8'37r. The miner and mineralogist should visit principally the mines oi Almaden, Linares, Eio Tinto, Logrosan, the salt pans of Minglanilla, the coal-fields of Gijon, and marble quarries of Granada and Macael. The best season is spring and summer. An order from the Ministerio de Fomento will be requisite to visit the Government establishments. The collection at the Madrid Museo de Historia Natural is one of the finest in Europe, and that of the Escuela de Minas at Madrid will not fail to interest mineralogists. Books of Reference. * The Anales de Minas.' Sullivan and O'Reilly : f On the Province of Santander.' London, 1863. Gcetschmann: ' Bergbaukunst.' Leipzig, 1866. Botella : < Descripcion Geologica Minera de las Provincias de Murcia of Albacete.' Madrid, 1868. VonGroddeck: ' Lagerstatten der Erze.' Leipzig, 1879. J. A. Phillips: 'Ore Deposits.' London, 1884. Nordenstrom : ' Berg und Huttenmoenische Zeitung.' 1886-1887. P. W. Stuart Menteath : * Sur les gisements metalliferes des Pyrenees Occidentals.' Bulletin Soc. Geol., France, 1886. XXV111 GENERAL INFORMATION The Annual Commercial and Consular Reports for Spain. (London.) Various papers in the Revista Minera and in the ' Boletin de la Comision del Mapa Geologico de Espafia.' The older works which may be consulted, but which need continual correc- tion by reference to recent researches and operations, are : Bowles : f Natural History of Spain. ' Hoppensack : 'Carte des Filons d'Almaden.' C. de Prado : * Minas de Almaden' (Madrid, 1846), J. E. de Bayo : ( Apuntes, ' etc. Leplay : Observations sur 1'Histoire Nat. et la Richesse Minerale de 1'Espagne' (Paris, 1834). Cantalapiedra : ' Guia del Minero.' The existence of gold mines in Spain is an old and favourite dream with Spaniards. Besides the supposed California said to be hidden in the barrancos near Granada there are other portions of the Peninsula that have attracted attention. See many papers in the Revista Minera by Maestre, Naranjo y Gaza, etc.; also Viadera's 'Terrenos auriferos de la Prov. de Leon.* See also Burat's * Sur la Terrain metallifere de 1'Espagne,' in the Institut, 1846. Climate. THE climate of Spain has not been as yet sufficiently studied. It is superior in all respects to that of Italy, being more southern, more sheltered from the north winds by the elevated sierras running east and west, and characterised by a more bracing, genial atmosphere. If we classify the more important medical stations according to the prevalent atmospheric influence, we shall divide Spain into three main zones. 1. Exciting climates, such as those of Nice, Montpellier, Florence, Naples in Spain, Alicante, Malaga, Valencia, Cadiz, Seville. 2. Sedative, such as Pau, Koine, Arcachon, etc. Vigo, Granada, Barcelona. 3. Relaxing, such as Madeira, Pisa, etc. Oviedo, Gijon and all the north-west coast. Thermometrical and barometrical observations are no doubt very reliable indicators of the climate, but statistics in Spain are not sufficiently advanced to allow us to gather any series of data. Latitude, again, is not always the only rule to go by. Altitude,, situation, and soil, are so many considerations to which attention must be drawn before a medical station be decided. The warm, sunny, still air that is constantly breathed in Spain ; the pure crystalline water that is drunk ; the cloudless, deep- blue sky ; the wholesome dry wines, without acidity ; the quiet life that is usually led ; all contribute most powerfully to bring relief often to cure. The climate of Spain will benefit more generally patients suffering CLIMATE. XXIX from consumption, bronchitis, and dyspepsia. The selection of a place of residence is most important, as mistakes arising from hasty decisions, or an imperfect acquaintance with the peculiarities of each, bring with them fatal consequences. We subjoin a list of the best works to consult on the matter. Mortality Table, showing the proportion of deaths to the number of the population in some of the principal medical stations : In London n 40 dies annually. In Nice in 3 1 dies annually. Paris 32 Pau i 45 Vienna 221 Madrid , 26 Rome 25 Malaga 25 Naples 28 Barcelona , 29 Brussels 29 Valencia 31 Berlin 34 Alicante , 26 Mean Temperature of some of the principal medical stations. Med. Stations. Winter. Spring. Summer. Autumn. Fahr. Fahr Fahr. Fahr. Torquay 44 50 6l 53 Pau . 41 54 70 37 Rome 49 57 72 63 Nice . 47 56 72 61 Madeira 60 62 6 9 67 Malaga 55 68 80 61 The annual amount of rain at Nice is 26 inches Torquay is 28 inches Madeira ,, 29 ,, Malaga ,, 15^ ,, Rome 29 ,, Pau ,, 43 London is 27 inches. Invalids should undertake the journey to Spain about the middle of September, at that season when atmospheric changes become more sensible in England, and when acclimatisation in so different a latitude IE more easily effected, the great summer heat having then considerably subsided in many points. After a winter's residence in a Spanish medical station, we may be permitted to recommend, on good authority, to avoid by all means a sudden change by a hasty and untimely return to England, or any other country with a similar climate. The transition might be made gradually by residences at Seville, Granada, or Barcelona, or at Nice, Pau, or Menton. The best authorities on the climate of Spain are the following : XXX GENERAL INFORMATION. ' Change of Climate, etc., with an Account of the most eligible Places of Residence for Invalids in Spain, Portugal, Algeria, etc., By D. J. T. Francis, M.D. ; London, 1853. ' Du Climat de 1'Espagne sous le Rapport Medical,' par le Docteur E. Cazenave (an Eaux Bonnes physician) ; Paris, 1863. ' Spain and its Climates,' by Edwin Lee, Esq. ; London 1855. ( Efemerides Barometrico-Medicas-Matritenses,' by Drs. Navarrete, etc. See also i Memorias de la Real Academia- Medica-Matritense.' * Topografia Medica,' etc., by Dr. V. Martinez y Montes ; 4to. Malaga, 1852. Very valuable to the invalid who selects Malaga. Minano's l Diccionario de Espaiia y Portugal,' Madoz's 1 Diccionario,' and the l Ano Clinico de Cirugia/ etc., contain weather-tables, which may be consulted. Meteorological observations are made all over Spain with great care and intelligence, and sent by telegraph daily from the different stations to the central one, the Royal Observatory at Madrid, and published in the official ' Gaceta.' Meteorology is not a novel science in Spain. Those curious to know more of this matter, and become acquainted with some now almost-forgotten Spanish meteorologists (see cent, Fahr. Salva Pinalver, Garrido, etc.), may consult the interesting * Estudios Meteorologicos del Siglo XVIII.,' by Manuel Rico Sinovas ; Madrid, 1858. The accompanying diagram shows the corresponding degrees of the Centigrade and Fahrenheit Thermometers. C. Centigrade ; F. Fahrenheit. Mineral Springs and Sea-bathing. ' OF all the countries in Europe, Spain is the richest in mineral springs.' Such is Dr. Cazenave's opinion, and that of every competent person who has studied the subject ; and when communications are rendered more easy, and the accommodation improved, the celebrated springs of Germany and France will meet with considerable competition. There are upwards of 2000 springs that is, 232 more than in France. Of these, eighty only are placed under a medical inspector. The bathing establecimientos are, generally speaking, defective, and the comforts attend- ing a cure made at Luchon, Vichy, Carlsbad, Swalbach, etc., are totally wanting here. But the efficacy of the water, and that is the principal object in view, is very great. The Romans and Moors, both great MINERAL SPRINGS. XXXJ bathers, and who would not, therefore, have understood the Spanish advice, s.) ; the straw is used for fodder and food of cattle ; the grain produces more butter than milk, and fattens quickly. It is sown in May and June, in lines at intervals, ploughed in or buried with the foot. Weeding takes place once (July), and the reaping in Augiist or September. The ears of maize are exposed for some time to the air, and hang in thick golden clusters around the farm- windows, and from under the projecting roofs. The thrashing takes place with flails, or a special machine. The produce reaches 700/ ; and requires irrigation in the centre and south of Spain. Although there are very large estates in Aragon and Cataluna, property is very much divided ; farms seldom extend over seven acres. The wooden plough is used, with an orejera } or share ; but cultivation is more practised with a two-pronged fork, laya, the identical mattocks mentioned in Froissart's < Chronicle,' and Churchill, ' The Duellist,' book 11. The Aragonese make use of the azadon, or pickaxe, and are first-rate at digging. Green hedges divide property in the Basque Provinces and West an old tradition, handed down by their forefathers, the Celts and Cantabrians (Virgil, Georg. book 2, v. 370 ; Csesar, 217) ; but in Cataluna there are none, as neither in Castile, for ' the hidalgo cannot wall in Spain,' says XXXV111 GENERAL INFORMATION. the proud legislation of ancient times, and instead they have land-marks mojones that is, mere stones placed de comun acuerdo, and never trans- gressed ' Thon shalt not remove thy neighbour's land-mark which they of old have set in thine inheritance ' (Deut. xix. 14) ; and in the Gothic legislation, he who dared to break through a hedge received fifty lashes (For. Tur. b. 8, tit. 2, cap. 6 and 7) ; the Basques, therefore, make them, as Chaucer says, * a hegge as thicke as a castel wall/ The hills are clothed with timber ; chestnuts, pears, and apple-trees grow plentifully on the slopes ; and excellent cider, pomarada, is made. The rotation of crops is biennial : first year, wheat or clover, turnips, and red clover ; second year, Indian corn, beans, and turnips. The cattle are short-horned, small ; used for milk, and the plough in lieu of oxen and mules ; mostly imported from Brittany and Santander ; and yield 4 to 10 quarts a-day. The SOUTH REGION, or of VINES, Includes Seville, Cadiz, Granada, all Andalucia. The soil here teems with generation ; the fertility is especially great in irrigated soils, where abundance and size make up for want of flavour and delicacy. The hills abound with timber. An aranzada (an English acre all but a tenth) is valued in the province of Seville to produce as in the following table : IRRIGATED SOIL. NON-IRRIGATED. For Cereals. Fruit. Olive. Vine. Cereals. Pasture. Forest. 8/18/4 '5A/8 &M 10/2/3 7/12/6 2/13/6 9/17/3 Property is very little divided, and some estates in the province of Cadiz amount to 36,000 aranz., in which 800 mules plough the land, and are valued about ,160,000, such as that of Enrile and Velazquez. The wages are 4 to 8r. (lOd. to Is. 8d.) a day ; the produce 4 to 5 per cent. The Vine? Spain possesses a soil especially suited to its cultivation, and though grown all over the country, this is its native district. The different modes of cultivating it were introduced by the Romans. The ground is first deeply ploughed, then large and deep hoyos (pits), two to three yards distant, are dug, the intervals being shorter if the soil is turned with the pickaxe. "Wine is produced in two and a half to four years after the planting, an aranzada yielding from 80 to 300 arrobas of grape, con- stituting a carga, or load ; that is, 8 arrobas of grape produce 3 arrobas of wine. In some parts, however, 2 arrobas of grape make 1 of wine (an arroba, 3 J gallons). The cost of vintage (vendeja) treading (pisa) yielding the most (arregio de mosto) averages 3r. (7d.) per carga. The vineyards are guarded by sheds and turrets, just as in Numbers xxii. 26. * For fuller particulars on Spanish wine, see page xliv. AGRICULTURE ORANGE-TREES. XXxix The OLIVE grows everywhere in Spain, but more especially in the region of the south. The most celebrated are in Cordova, the olivares of Calera, Lucena, and Montoro in the province of Jaen ; those of Andujar, Bailen, and La Aldea ; those in the neighbourhood of Granada are also excellent ; howbeit, the Sevillanas bear the palm. The cultivation is ill understood. The best soil for the olive is that where limestone prevails, and the best species is the cornicabra. A fanega (ij bushel) of olives gives 15 to 18 Ibs. of oil. An aranzada produces 12 arrobas, which make 325 fibs, of oil ; this is the minimum type. The value of 12 arrobas produced by an aranzada is 550r.,the cost to produce them 350r. The liquid amount is about 1200r. (12 : 10s.) ; each olive-tree gives half-a-fanega of olives per year, and the aranzada 20 to 25 ; but trees are known to yield as much as 8 and more. They are planted in rows ; a branch is cut in January, the end opened by four slits ; it is then planted, banked, and watered for two or three years, and pruned into four or five branches. They begin to produce at the eighth year, but twelve and eighteen are necessary to reach the highest produce. The berry in the central and northern regions of Spain does not ripen till the end of December, but in Andalusia early in the autumn. The process for making oil is still very primitive, though hydraulic and other machinery is being gradually introduced. Olives are also preserved to be eaten whole ; for this they are picked before they are quite ripe, and steeped in brine. The olive is nutritious, but heating. Most of the sorts used now bear the old Eoman names (Columella, 5-8). They are dearer now than they were at Rome, when * olei librae duodenae assibus ' (Pliny, 15, 1). Oil, aceite, the Arab's azzait, is a substitute for butter and grease in Spain. They make with it a dish called migas, which is a compound of crumbs of bread fried with oil, salt, and pepper the Latin poet's * mica vocor quid sim cernis csenatio parva ;' and gazpacho, or bread soaked in oil. The oil consumed in Spain amounts to 6,556,500 gallons, being 4 gals. 6 pints per head ; while the consumption of meat is 23-03 Iba. In this district the vegetables are excellent, some of enormous size. The Cordovese artichokes were a relish at Rome (Pliny, 19, 8). Melons (andrejuelas) and water-melons (sandias), citrons and limas, are most ex- quisite ; so are the pomegranates (granadas) which were sent to Abdur-r- rhaman from Baghdad, and therefore called jafaries Arabice, travellers. The EAST REGION, or of ORANGE-TREES, Includes E. and S. Cataluna, Valencia, Alicante, Murcia, Malaga. This is the paradise of the farming Moor, the richest soil in Europe, and one of the best cultivated ; every tropical plant grows and thrives admirably rice, sugar, cotton, wine, oil, silk, corn. Taking Castellon for average xl GENERAL INFORMATION. type, the hanegada (32 square poles) is valued from 2000r. (,21) to 4030r. (,42), if irrigated ; the rent and value of the Huerta (orchard) are in pro- portion to the period and growth of the plantations. The naranjales (orange-grounds) are divided into three classes on an average ; the hec- tare is valued at 98,000 reals, each tree produces 700 reals, and the hanegada contains about twenty trees. The arrendamiento (farming-lease) of a hanegada planted with orange-trees, from 15 to 20 years old, is 250 reals (2 : 12s.) viz. 1220r. per hectare (2j acres) ; the trees begin to bear fruit after the sixth year, and improve up to 20 years, after which they degenerate ; they flower in March. ' It rarely happens to find a plant vigorous enough to have, like the orange-tree, at once beautiful shining leaves, fragrant flowers, and delicious nourishing fruit ' (Spectator, mem. 155). The exportation is very large. Including lemons, the value of the trade with Great Britain alone during the year 1887 amounted to 1,014,650 (other fruits 1,237,964), and exportation to Germany and other countries is on the increase. The oranges are picked in a some- what desultory manner from October to March, wrapped in paper, and packed in boxes containing 700 to 1000 each, and worth to the importer from twenty-five to thirty shillings ; they ripen during the voyage. The finest naranjales are at Ricote, Murcia, at Cullera, Alcira, Gandia, Carcagente. Rice. Considerably produced and consumed in this region ; intro- duced by the Carthaginians and cultivated by the Arabs, who called it arrozj and sowed it on both irrigated and non-irrigated soil : it is now principally produced in marshy swamps, called marjales or arrowzales, ague-feeders, that produce great mortality among the cultivators. A hec- tare produces 20 to 50 hectolitre of grain (a hect. = 5^ qrs., and the stalks weigh 85 cwt.) The fertility which 100 kilogrammes of rice-grain and straw draw from the soil is equal to that contained in 135 kil. of good manure. Sugar-Cane, introduced by the Arabs, is limited to the province of Malaga ; the cultivation does not extend, owing to American competition ; grows only on irrigated soil. The sugar produced is only 10 per cent, whilst in Cuba 15*4 to 17'6 ; a hectare of sugar-cane yields 2900 kil. of sugar. This Arab suJchir and Sanscrit sarkara was, according to some, imported from Sicily by the Carthaginians, and exported by the Spaniards to St. Domingo, though indigenous in that country. The Raisin. There are pasas of three sorts moscatel, de sol (sun raisin) and lejias, so called from the liquor ley in which they are dipped, composed of water, ashes, and oil, after which they go through the usual process of drying in the sun. The finest are those from Malaga, which fetch a third more than any other in the London market. The annual exportation is about 2,500,000 boxes, 22 Ibs. to a box. Batatas (Convolvulus batatas, L.) Another produce of Malaga, im- AGRICULTURE PASTURE. xll ported from South America ; used as a sweetmeat, and excellent when boiled, planted in spring, and taken up in autumn. A hectare yields thirty to sixty thousand kil. The leaves are eaten by cattle. Silks. Chiefly at Valencia, where the mulberry grows admirably, and the silk is excellent. The methods practised are antiquated ; the Phalwna bombyx is commonly employed. The cocoon weighs only 2 grammes, whilst that of the Bombyx atlas, at the Yincennes model-farm, weighs 9. The trade is slightly on the increase. Cotton. The soil and climate are favourable, but man is unequal to either. In Motril (province of Granada), towards the end of the last century, 1781 marjales produced 12,000 arrobas (300,000 ft>s.) The Arabs cultivated it on the Andalusian sea-shore. We have seen fine specimens at Elche (Alicant). A hectare (2 acres) yields in a -quin- quennio, or period of five years, 5200 kil. (102 cwts.), which, at the lowest price (4r. 25c. per kil., lO^d.), are valued at 26,100r. (272), the expenses to 18,495r., the net produce being therefore 1540r. (15:16:6) per hec- tare ; whilst in Algeria the maximum produce is 1 200r. (1 2 : 1 Os.) per hec- tare. In 1808 there were as many as forty thousand marjales planted in Motril ; it decreased again during the Peninsular war, and is very slowly re- covering. Land is very cheap, and were English companies to buy up a large extent, and cultivate cotton, the result would, no doubt, prove satisfactory. Irrigation. The huertas of Valencia, Murcia, and vegas of Granada, are the great centres of irrigation. The celebrated tribunal de las Aguas, at Valencia, applies to this day the code of laws introduced by the Goths and Arabs. The noria, or Arab anaoura, is a large water-wheel, armed with jars (alcabuces) which descend into the well, and, as they rise, following the motion of the wheel, discharge their contents into a reservoir. There is irrigation by agua de pie (running water) and agua de noria, artefacto, arte, as these wheels are called, according to the province where they are employed. By means of irrigation, Alfalfa (Lucerne) is mowed twelve to sixteen times. Guano is now much employed by farmers in the Huerta of Valencia and other enterprising districts. The neces- sity of irrigation, and when obtained, in this parched-up soil, the aug- mentation of the value of land, will appear evident when we state that, whilst in the province of Murcia unirrigated (secano) land sells from ,12 to 30 per acre, irrigated (reyadio) land fetches prices varying from 300 to 600. In the Huerta of Valencia, the proportion is 6 to 12 in the first case, and 300 to 400 in the second. Again, while the value of a cubic foot of water per second is in Lombardy 8, and in Piedmont 17s. 6d., it is often sold in Spain at the rate of 300 the cubic foot per second, and sometimes exceeds this price. The West REGION, or of PASTURE, Includes Estremadura and portions of Leon : contains little more than 59 inhabitants per square league ; consists of large wastes, valdios, and xlii GENERAL INFORMATION. pasture-land. The agriculture is strictly pastoral. A company of sheep proprietors, called Concejo de la Mesta, was established in 1556, to which most exclusive and arbitrary privileges were granted. In the 15th cen- tury they possessed seven millions of sheep, in the 1 7th century only two and a half. It was suppressed in 1834, and the remnant, the now unprivileged Associacion de Ganaderos, possesses only five millions. The flocks are divided into estantes (stationary) and trashumantes, or migratory, and divided into detached cabanas (from the Greek kapane, a stable), of about 10,000 head each. The highland summer pastures are called agostaderos (August, from agostar, to be parched with heat, as mesta comes from mestal, a barren uncultivated land), and are quitted about October for the invernadores, winter quarters, in the warm plains ; each cabana is directed by a Mayoral, or Merino, who has under his orders fifty shep- herds. The free sheep-walks, ' Canada de Paso/ now suppressed, were 90 ft. wide, and were left on each side of the highway, an organisation and custom well known to the ancients. (Pliny, 21,10; Varro, 22, 10 ; 2, 2.) The merino breeds were so called from the conductor's name (whence those jurisdictional districts called merindades, etymologically to divide, to separate, as in Navarre, to this day). Spanish sheep were always cele- brated, and some fetched at Home as much as ,200 (Oolumella, B.C. 42). George III. was a great patron of the breed, and the late king of Saxony imported it. Indeed, such has been the care and intelligence shown by English and Germans, and the neglect of Spanish breeders, that the wool trade with Spain has become insignificant compared with that of Ger- many and Brazil, and merinos are now imported from those countries to regenerate the Spanish breeds ! Spain in 1859 possessed about seven- teen and a half million head. The net produce of a sheep is 4r. to 6r., and the price 33r. to 36r. Swine are another produce of this region, and the bacon and hams of Montanches and the strong chorizos are celebrated all over Spain. The Central REGION, or of CORN, Includes the Castiles S. of Leon, Mancha, etc. This region consists of vast treeless plains, where corn thrives wonderfully, and might indeed become the granary of the world. An aranzada (nearly an acre) is in general sown with a fanega and 5 cuartillos (1} bushel) ; in Andalusia it yields from 13 to 20 fanegadas. A fanegada of land in Castile yields 9 to 30. There are a great many varieties of corn, all divided under the heads of canivanos and canimacizos that is, blandos and duros ; 90 Ibs. weight of wheat yield 115 Ibs. of bread. Much barley is also grown, but is princi- pally given to horses and cattle. The great wheat districts are Palencia, Valladolid, Zamora, with Old Castile, ' tierras de pran llevar' is applied to land which grows it more especially. All corn is sown broadcast on fallow land and ploughed in ; the sowing takes places from October to Novem- ber. In the spring the escarda (weeding) takes place and in July and AGRICULTURE CORN. xliii August the reaping begins, which is done with the sickle, not the scythe, a slower hut surer process in this climate. The thrashing-floors (eras), la trilla, the wooden or stone roller used in some disticts, and in others the treading the corn with mules or oxen, are all Eastern importations, and such as practised now in Egypt and Asia Minor. The plough is an elm-tree, alamo negro (Ulmus nigra), stripped of its bark and branches, save a lower one, which is sharpened and coated with a thin sheet of iron ; the trunk forms the pole, and lies obliquely between the oxen or mules' heads ; no traces, no reins are needed, the voice alone suffices to guide the yunta, and the ganan follows rather than directs the plough, holding the single handle with his left hand, and with a short goad (gavilan) scrapes off the mud, roots, etc. But the goad he manages to leave behind in the apero, which is often two or three leagues distant ; and he will go on singing, as he ploughs, some wild ditty to the winds and his lass, looking back rather than forward, contrary to the injunc- tion of the Bible. The vertedera (versoir), or iron-share plough is little known, nor rollers and harrows, as we understand them. The ploughing is very light, what the Eomans called scarificatio. The furrows seldom exceed eight inches ; its different operations are reduced to 4 rejas ; the plough costs from 50r. to 75r. (10s. 5d. to 15s. 7d., and weighs 25 Ibs.), and weighs one arroba ; ploughing otherwise is scorned, ' arado rabudo y labrador barbudo.' The rotation of crops is unknown, and would scarcely be possible without manure or water. The most usual system is that of ano y vez (every other year). Thus the soil only bears a crop every second year, and rests that is, is manured by the air the other. Wages vary from 4r. to 8r. (from lOd. to Is. 6d.) The Castilian labra- dores are far from indolent, rise with the cock, and are harder workers than is generally believed. Saffron) azafran (Arabice saffrd, yellow), is also extensively grown ; and garbanzos (cicer, unde Cicero, whose wart was like one). This chick- pea, the French pois-chiche, is farinaceous, somewhat fade, but fills the buche, and that is all that is required. It is, moreover, grown without irrigation, and yields plentiful crops. This pea, quite a Spanish pro- duce (' Espana, la tierra de los garbanzos'), enters largely into the daily food of the poor and rich man alike, for the olla or puchero appears on the queen's table every day, as it does between the crossed legs of the squatting albanil, or ploughboy. The olla (olla, a pot, a pipkin) or puchero, and also cocido, is the Spanish staple dish. It is a compound of stringy, dried-up beef, boiled garbanzos, bacon, cabbage, chicken (victims generally of rapid decline), relev$s by highly-spiced chorizo, etc., all boiled and served together. Quantity replaces quality, and it satisfies all Spanish stomachs, even that of the fastidious Cura, whose happiness is summed up in it. Su olla, su misa, Y su Dona Luisa. xliv GENERAL INFORMATION. The algarroba (Orium minanthos, L.) is very much grown, and is especially used for cattle ; 10 to 15 hectols. are produced in a hectare. The flour made with it is excellent for milk-cows ; grows on non-irri- gated soil ; two species, black and white ; the grains are sometimes called Arbejones. Books of Reference. ' Curso de Economia rural Espanola,' by Tablada. Excellent, in course of publication. Madrid, Cuesta, 1864. ' Manual de la Construccion de las Maquinas aratorias,' by same. Madrid, 1852. ' Manual de Riegos y Prados,' by same. Consular and Commercial Reports for Spain. London, 1888. < Abu Zakaria's Moorish Agric.' (dates I2th century), and was written for the use of the Sevillian Moors, found in Ebnu-1-Awmam's Book of Agriculture. Translated by Sefior Banqueri. Madrid, 2 fol. vols., 1802. Republished in 2 vols. I2mo; Seville, 1872, in the series Biblioteca-Cientifico-Literaria. The best periodicals are 'La Espafia Agricola,' and ' Eco de la Ganaderia.' "Wine. THE celebrity of Spanish wine was great even in olden times. That it was exported to England and France as early as the 16th century there is no doubt. Spanish wines have lately superseded Madeira and other white ones ; the export to the United Kingdom of Great Britain alone in 1887 amounting to 1,013,750. The principal character- istics of the Spanish wines are fulness of body (cuerpo), strength derived from its natural spirituosity (encaluzado\ absence of acidity, owing to the power of the sun, very high flavour or bouquet, and great durability, in the whites more especially. The principal white wines are Jerez, Malaga, Manzanilla ; the red Valdepenas, Arganda, Benicarlo. White. Jerez, or Sherry, pronounced ' Haraz,' was introduced into England in the reign of Henry VII., and became a general favourite in the time of Elizabeth. The sack mentioned so often in the works of Beaumont and Fletcher ('the vertue of sack') ; of Ben Jonson (' An Epigram,' etc.) ; and in Shakspeare (Hen. IV., pt. 1, etc.) alludes to Canary only. The favourite drink of Sir John Falstaff was, however, Xerez, not Canary ; and Shakspeare plainly marks the difference : ' A good sAems-sack hath a two-fold operation in it : it ascends me into the braine ; the second propertie of your excellent sherris is, the warming of the blood' (Hen. IV., pt. 2, act iv.) Whether, now, sack comes from secoy dry, or otherwise, as Ducange expresses it, we leave to the learned. The exportation has more than doubled in twenty years, and that is the best commentary upon its value and favour. In 1841 there were ex- ported from Jerez to all parts, 14,773 butts of 30 arrobas each, value .440,000; in 1860 there were 30,725 butts, value ,1,400,000; in 1883, 37,160 butts. The declared value seems to have risen steadily until 1882 up to 2,200,000 but since then has declined. The demand, WINE. XlV however, for old sherry is enormous ; and the prices are likely to increase. Moreover, the vintages for some time past have been scanty, owing to scorching African winds, absence of rain, and other causes. Sherry is made with Jerez grapes, but of great many sorts and difference of flavour. The process for making this wine is thus carried on : The grapes are carefully gathered and sorted, and exposed upon reed mats, where the sun dries them ; eight or ten days suffice, according to the strength of the sun and varieties of fruit a process mentioned by Hesiod, lib. ii., v. 229. The grapes are then taken to the lagar, and submitted to the action of presses (prensas), before which they are trampled under foot, just as was done thousands of years ago in Palestine (Isaiah xvii. 10 and Jer. xlviii. 33), and by the Greeks and Romans, and all Eastern nations, for where the sun rules paramount, most agricultural practices, and others indeed, never vary ; and of these it may be truly said, nil novum sub sole, as most inventions and innovations of the frost- bitten Northerner tend to making artificial suns with coals, manures, forests, glass, etc. The system of trampling the grape under foot was prohibited in Charlemagne's time (Cap. year 800). The must or juice (mosto) is put into botas, where it undergoes fermentation. When the latter is com- pleted (in January), and the must is made wine, it is racked from the lees and left to itself for four or five years the age requisite for ex- portation. When it enters this stage (maduracion), it is clarified ; which process is done by dissolving a fatty substance in the whites of twenty eggs per bota, and the compost poured into it and stirred for mixing, then allowed to settle, and afterwards racked off into another bota (a butt, not a skin). Now an important operation takes place ; the wine (el caldo, as it is technically called) receives a small addition of madre vino (madre, mother), or very rich old wine, the crSme de la crdme, and treasured up, as the old Dutchmen kept with jealous eye their bulbs of tulips. The quantity of mother wine is every year made up by other wine, old too, but younger than the alma mater itself. To bear exporta- tion, a fiftieth or sixtieth part of brandy is added that is, about l/ o ; This for genuine sherry. Imitations receive 5/ and 7% of spirit, and sometimes more. There are, under the sorts of dry and sweet sherry, two varieties of each. 1 st. Dry Sherry Jerez seco, or, properly, English Sherry. There is pale, Jerez claro, sometimes called ambar, and brown or golden, Jerez oscuro. The former is generally new raw wine (from four to five years old) ; the latter owes its rich colour to age. There is between the straw- (pajizo) coloured and the deep golden a golden sherry, which partakes of the nature of both ; we believe Tio Pepe also belongs to this class. This latter is as yet but little known, and produced in small quantities ; but let the real connoisseur, whose palate is not used up by fashion and prejudice, taste it, and he will have no other. The second is Jerez Amontillado, so called from the peculiar highly aromatic filbert or almond- xlvi GENERAL INFORMATION. like aroma of the wine grown near Montilla (near Cordova). It is also drier ; the colour is more or less deep pajizo, the lightest being the oldest wine. These two dry sherries, so different in colour and flavour and scent, proceed, however, from the same grapes (whose sorts have not pro- bably been sufficiently studied separately), and thus often several botas contain must from the same press, and yet part becomes amontillado and the other dry sherry. The latter is richer than the former, but inferior in bouquet. The transformation takes place during the first or second year ; by what means has never been ascertained. The amontillado is less abundant and dearer, and serves to enrich poorer sherries that is, not to add cuerpo (body), but aroma. The grapes from which these two dry wines are made are exposed to the sun for two or three days only ; the sweet wines require ten or twelve, so that they become almost raisins (pasas). Sweet Sherry consists of three sorts ; Paj arete, Moscatel, and Pedro- Gimenez. The Pajarete is made from the Pedro-Gimenez grapes, which are sweeter than the sherry grape, and are left exposed to the sun from ten to twelve days, and thus become in a way sun-raisins, or pasas. The name comes from that of the ' hamlet of Pajarete,' where it was first made. There is scarcely any difference between it and Pedro-Gimenez, both proceeding from the same grape. Its colour is dark, its flavour that of the natural grape. Moscatel is made with the Muscat grapes, which are sweeter still than the two former, and darker also. There is, besides, a delicious sweet sherry, called 'Malvasia,' superior in all respects to Lachryma-Christi, not unlike Pajarete, but not abundantly produced, and dear. Sherries, when genuine, keep for an infinite time, there beingbotas of one hundred years old. Age darkens the colour of sweet sherries and lightens that of dry ones. The wine can be bottled in a very few days after its arrival. It forms no deposit (poso). The basis of adulterated sherry consists, on an average, of pale malt, sulphuric acid, flavoured from the bitter almond oil, with a high percentage of alcoholic spirit. The most celebrated wine in Spain, after sherry, is Malaga. There are two sorts dry and sweet. The latter is the well-known ' Mountains ' of olden time. The annual produce amounts to about 2,250,000 gals. (1 arroba = in round figures 3^ gals.), of which, however, not more than one half is exported. The average price is 6 per butt, and excellent Frasanejo very old may be obtained for l the arroba. About one- twelfth part of dry Malaga consists of brandy. Lagrimas, the sweetest and most delicious of all, is, as its name poetically indicates, the tears or droppings of the ripe grape hung up and dried in the sun, and obtained without pressure. They are of different qualities, varying from 6 Or. to lOOr. the arroba. Besides these, several liqueurs and brandies are manufactured in the district, and Curaao, Anisette de Bordeaux, etc., well imitated. Manzanilla. A most delicious, highly flavoured, and stomachic white wine, made at San Lucar de Barrameda, near Cadiz, and so called from WINE HISTORY. xlvii the light camomile (manzanilla) flavour, contained in the grape. It is a light wine, very wholesome, and seldom adulterated. It ought to "bo preferred to inferior made-up sherries. Montilla. White, dry, exquisitely flavoured, made at Montilla, near Cordova ; deserves to be better known. There are several other good light white wines made in Cataluna such as Malvasia de Sitjes, Cullera, Alella, Taya, etc. Champagne is made at Logrono and in Aragon. Red Wines. The best vin ordinaire, vino de pasto, is Valdepenas, near Madrid. Were the vines better cultivated and the elaboration better attended to, this wine, the produce of Burgundian vines transplanted here, would bear exportation and enjoy great reputation. It is very rich, fruity, but encabezado generally. It is sold for 6r. and 8r. a bottle in Madrid, and 4 the butt on the spot. Among other red wines we may mention Arganda, near Madrid, full bodied, and highly coloured, used as the former, to mix with water, which, in Spain, where the latter is so exquisite, is to spoil two good things. Benicarlo (18 leagues from Valencia) is very full-bodied, and so deeply coloured that French weak clarets are dyed and strengthened with it ; the native amateurs like it to be as dark as ink, and they spill a drop on the white shirt-sleeve to see whether it stains or not ! We may also men- tion the 'excellent Priorato (sweet and dry sorts), La Rioja, Tintilla de Rota (near Cadiz), Carinena (near Zaragoza), Fondillon, Aloque, etc., at Alicante. Spanish wines are exported in double-bottomed casks ; but the common ones, especially red ones, sent about in the country, are contained in goat-skins, which, when not tanned, communicate an unpleasant taste to the wine. These pellejos or borrachas are the early Greek aaxbg, the Eoman uter, French outre. They are used for liquids in Arabia, and in Persia are saturated with pitch. They are mentioned in Homer (Od. vi. 78, II. iii. 247), and in Virgil's Georg. ii. 384. They were, however, introduced into the north of Spain by the Celts, who called them Cupa (whence perhaps cuba, cuve), (Csesar, lib. viii. 34). In some out-of-the- way districts, the want of barrels causes the cosecheros, when the vintage is at hand, to throw the old wine away ; and it is no conte de voyageur, that it often is used instead of water to mix with mortar. Since the spread of the phylloxera an enormous trade in red wines has sprung up with France to supply the demand for ' Bordeaux/ There are many good recent Spanish publications upon the cultivation of the vine and the processes of wine manufacture. Vizetelly's * Facts about Sherry ' is a useful authority upon one section of the trade. History. IT would be foreign to the nature of this guide-book to enter into details respecting the history of Spain, which is suitably noticed in the local descriptions further on. We only subjoin, therefore, a concise tableau of the kings, to assist research. xlviii GENERAL INFORMATION. GOTHIC SPAIN. Events. A.D. General History. A.li. The Wisigoths or W. Goths, Invasion of the Barbarians in Conquest of Spain by Ataulphus The Alani, under Gonderic, 414 Italy, Gaul, etc. . 410-27 settle in N.E 409 The Suevi, under Hermanric, settle in the N.W. . . > . 409 The Vandals, under Genseric, Rome taken by Alaric 410 settle in S., pass to Africa, and thence to Rome. 409 The Visigoths, who settled in the centre, absorbed the other races, and became sole undisturbed rulers of all Spain. Barcelona is The Heptarchy in Brittany . Fall of the Western Empire . 449 476 at first the capital, and then Toledo CHRONOLOGY OF THE GOTHIC KINGS. A.D. A.D. 414 Sigerico . . Walia 416 417 Pope Boniface I. 418 Teodoredo . . . 419 Turismundo .... 451 Attila in Italy . 447 Teodorico 454 Eurico . ... 467 Alarico 483 Gesaleico ... 506 Amalarico S 11 Death of Clovis in France 5" Teudis, or Theudio . 53i Teudiselo . . 548 Code of Justinian . 533 Agila .. 550 Atanagildo ..... 554 Luva, or Liuva 1 ... 567 Leovigildo 570 Birth of Mahomet 570 Recaredo I 587 Liuva, or Leuva If.. 601 Witerico 603 Gundemaro .... 610 Heraclius, Emperor of the Eaot 610 Sisebuto ..... 612 Recaredo 11 621 Suintila 621 Hijra of Mahomet . 622 Sisenando 630 Chintila 636 Tulga. . 640 Chindasuindo, or Chindasvinto . 642 Recesvinto ..... 649 Wamba ..,.'. 672 Ervigio 680 Egica . . Witiza .... 687 701 Roderik . . . 711 Pope Gregory II. 7'5 His death .... 7H Duration of the Gothic Empire in Spain, 300 years. The battle of Jerez, or of the Guadalete, A.D. 711, won by the Moors, puts an end to the Gothic rule. HISTOKY. xlix MOORISH SPAIN. A.D. Christian Monarchies Kings of Asturias and Leon. Year of Access. The Berbers' Arabs land at Gib- April Pelayo 718 raltar, under Tarik. 711 Favila 737 The Moorish dynasties are Alfonso I., el Catolico . 739 usually divided into four pe- Fruela I. .... 757 Aurelio .... 7^8 i. 711 to 756 Spain was go- verned by the Khalifs of Damas- cus, under Amirs or Sheiks Silo Mauregato .... Bermudo I., el Diacono . 774 783 789 2. 756 to 1036 or Khalifate of Cordova, independent of Da- Alfonso II., el Casto 793 mascus. Seventeen Sultans, all Ramiro I. . . 842 of the Umineyah family 3. 1036 to 1235 the dynasty Ordono I Alfonso III., el Magno . 850 866 of the Almohades, and Almora- vides, succeeded to the former, Garcia 910 and the Khalifate of Cordova Ordono II 914 Fruela II .... 924 by St. Ferdinand, June 30, 1235 Alfonso IV., el Monje 925 4. Khalifate of Granada found- 930 ed by Ibnu-1-Ahmar, 1238 to 1492, Ordono 950 when the city surrendered to the Catholic kings . Sancho I. . 955 CHRISTIAN MONARCHIES. Spain Kings of Asturias and Leon. Year of Access. France. England. Rome, etc. Pelayo , Favila . 718 737 Defeat of the Moors at Poitiers Alfonso (el Catolico) 739 (732). Fruela I. . 757 Aurelio 768 Charlemagne (768) Silo .... 774 Mauregato 783 Bermudo I. (el Dia- .. Haroun al Rashid cono) 789 (780) in the East. Alfonso II. (el Casto) 793 Khalifate of Cordova ( 75 6). Ramiro I. 842 Charles the Bald (840) Ordono I. Alfonso III. (el 850 Egbert (800). Magno) . 866 4 1 Alfred the Great (871). Garcia . 910 Ordono 1 1. . 914 AbdurhamIII.,Khfc- life of Cordova (gra), Fruela 1 1. 924 Alfonso IV. (el Monjc) 925 rJ GENERAL INFORMATION. CHRISTIAN MONARCHIES Continued. Kingdom of Castile and Leon. Year of Access. France. England. Rome, etc. Ramiro II. 93 Ordono III. . 95 Sancho I. 955 Ramiro III. . 967 Bermudo II. . 982 Hugh Capet (987) Ethelred II. (978) Gregory V. (996). Alfonso V. 1002 Bermudo III. . 1027 End of Khalifa te of Cordova. Dona Sancha . 1037 CASTILE AND LEON. Fernando I. and Dona Sancha I0 37 Sancho II. 1065 Philip I. William the Con- Pope Gregory VII. queror. Alfonso VI. . 1072 The first Crusade (1095). DonaUrraca . 1109 Alfonso VII. (Em- perador) Sancho III. (el Des- 1126 Louis VII. Henry II. Pope Adrian IV. eado) 1157 Alfonso VII I. 1158 Barbarossa. Enrique I. 1214 Fourth Crusade (1204) Fernando II. . 1188 Richard (Coeur de Lion). Alfonso IX. . 1230 Dona Berenguela . 1244 San Fernando III. Alfonso X. (elSabio) Sancho IV. (el 1252 St. Louis. Henry III. Pope Innocent IV. Pope Boniface VIII. Bravo) . 1295 Rudolph of Hapsburg (1273) Fernando IV. (el Emplazado . 1312 Alfonso XL . 1350 Philip VI. Edward III. Pope Benedict VI. Pedro I. (el Cruel) . Enrique II. 1369 J 379 Jean 11. Edward III. Rienzi (1347). Innocent VI. Juan I. . 1390 Enrique III. . . 1407 Juan II. . Louis XL Taking of Constanti- nople by Mahomet II. The Medici at Florence. Enrique IV. (el Impotente) . M74 Castile and Aragon Isabel la Catdlica . Fernando V. . Juana (la Loca) Philip I. . Charles I. of Spain 1504 1516 1555 1560 Charles VI 1 1. Francis I. Henry VII. Henry VIII. united (1474) P. Innocent VIII. Leo X., Pope. Battle of Pavia (1525) Luther (1517). and V. of Germany Carlos Quinto . Philip 1 1. 1558 1598 Henry 1 1. Charles IX. Edward VI. Elizabeth. Paul III. St. Bartholomew's i Day (1572). HISTORY. CHRISTIAN MONARCHIES Continued. Kingdom of Castile and Leon. Year of Access. France. England. Rome, etc. Philip III. Philip IV. 1621 1665 Louis XIV. Charles I. Pope Innocent X. Charles II. . 1700 Philip V. (abdic.) . 1724 Philip V. ! '. ! 1746 Louis XV. Anne. Pope Clement XI. Fernando VI. . Charles III. . 1759 1788 Louis XVI. George III. Clement XIII. Charles IV. (abdic.) Fernando VII. Isabel II. (fled) . Provisional Govern- 1808 1833 (1835) Napoleon I. Louis-Philippe. Napoleon 1 11. William IV. Victoria. Pius VII. Gregory XVI. Pius IX. ment 1868 Amadeo (abdic.) . 1871 Republic. Provisional Govern- ment . Alfonso XII. 1873 1875 Leo XIII. Alfonso XIII. 1886 Spanish Chronology. The Roman date sera (era) was in use in Spain until the 12th century. It began on December 25. To make it correspond with the Anno Domini, thirty-eight years must be added to the latter. The New Style was adopted in 1582 ; ten days must be added of the New Style to any day of accord to the Old Style. The Hijra of the Moors begins Friday, July 16, A.D. 622, era 660. PRINCIPAL MONASTIC ORDERS IN SPAIN. Order. Founders. A.D. Observations. Augustines Benedictines St. Augustine . St. Benedict . 350 500 In the reign of Philip III. there were upwards of 9000 convents, con- Cartuj os (Carthusian ) St. Bruno . 1086 taining 60,000 monks, besides 988 Franciscans St. Francis of Assise 1209 nunneries. In the dioceses of Pam- Dominicans St. Domingo 1215 plona and Calahorra alone there Capuchins . Mateo Baschi . were more than 20,000 monks Jesuits San Ignacio de Loyola I S4 and clergy. In Castile, the Church Hyeronomites . Followed the rule of possessed 12 millions of fanegas of St Jerome ; four land, that produced 161 millions of orders ; that of reals (end of i7th century). The Spain founded by revenues of the Spanish Church Thomas of Sienna in 1807 were about six millions in . 1370 sterling. Books of Reference. The earliest records of Spanish history are found in general and local provincial chronicles. The period in which they were written, native prejudice, and pressure from without, render many of these sources not trustworthy. The first writers who deserve the name of historians are : Zurita, Morales, Mendoza, Siguenza, Ribadenegra^ Zuniga, Mariana^ Sandoval, Herrera, etc. Coloma, Melo, and Solis's works are all trustworthy and interest- ing, though wanting in investigation. The best modern works are those of Prescott, Robert son> Denham, St. Hilaire^ Lafuente, Gayangos, Castelar, Dan- vila, Dozy, Gachard, Cdnovas del Castillo. Hi GENERAL INFORMATION. Language. THE only remains of the language spoken in Spain at the dawn of history are probably to be found in the Basque (Euskara) still preserved in Vizcaya and Guipuzcoa, in the northern parts of Alava and Navarra, and in some portions of the adjacent French department of the Basses Pyrenees. The student may be referred to the works of Van Eys, Professor J. Vinson, and especially to those of the Prince L. L. Bona- part, for information on this subject. The last and most complete grammar is in Spanish, by Don Arturo Campion, ' Gramatica de los Cuatro Dialectos Literarios de la Lengua Euskara' (Tolosa, 1884). Be- sides the Basque, inscriptions and numerous legends on coins, as late, probably, as the 3d century A.D., in unknown characters, have been found almost throughout the Peninsula. The title * Keltiberian ' is often given to these, but they still await a decipherer. The subject is well worth the attention of the archaeologist, as the interpretation may throw a flood of light on the early history of southern and western Europe. After the Iberian and Keltiberian and Kelt, the Phoenician, Cartha- ginian, and Greek were the next foreign races whom we find on the soil of Spain. They have, however, left but few traces of their speech in the present language. Ear different was it with the succeeding people, the Romans, whose language is the foundation and material of the Spanish tongues. No country was more completely Latinised than Spain. No one of the Romaunce dialects keeps closer to the mother tongue. A few names of the Spanish writers of the silver age of Latinity will show how prevalent the language must have been in Spain, though the coins and inscriptions show that Keltiberian still lingered on beside it. Seneca, Lucan, Martial, Quintilian, and Elorus were all Spaniards ; so also were the best of the earliest Christian Latin poets, Prudentius and Juvencus. After the Romans, came the Barbarian tribes which broke up the empire. Of these the Vandals have left their name to (V) Andalucia ; the Suevi held possession of Galicia and the north-west ; while the Visigoths, who succeeded them, reigned from 416 to 711 A.D. over the greater part of Spain and south-eastern France. These have left far deeper marks in the laws and institutions of Spain than in the language. The so-called Gothic manuscripts, Gothic liturgies, Gothic architecture, are merely names applied to certain modes of writing, liturgies, and styles of architecture which are not really of Gothic origin at all ; but the use of these terms has led to a great exaggeration in the work of the Goths in Spain. After their arrival, as before, the bulk of the nation remained linguistically and ethnologically Iberian, Kelt, and Roman. The con- LANGUAGE. liii querors of the Visigoths, the Arabs, Berber tribes, and Moors, who ruled in the south from the eighth to the end of the fifteenth century, have had far greater influence on the language. A glance at any modern map will show how many geographical names, up to and occasionally even beyond the Ebro, are still Arabic. The glossaries of Dozy and Engelmann (Leyden, 1869) and of Eguilaz y Yanguas (Granada, 1886) will show how many Arabic or Oriental words were added by them to the Spanish vocabulary. This influence, however, has been only on the vocabulary and the speech ; very slightly on the grammar. The Jews were numerous in Spain, even in Visigothic times or earlier ; but no foreign race except the gypsies has since taken root in the Peninsula. We may now take a brief survey of the dialects actually spoken in the Peninsula. For ordinary travellers these resolve themselves into two, the Spanish or Castilian, and the Portuguese. From the Pyrenees, in Aragon, in the centre, and throughout the whole of the south, the Spanish prevails. The Portuguese is spoken in Portugal ; and the Galician or Gallegan, the language of Galicia, is merely a dialect of the Portuguese. The Basque, as said above, obtains only in las provincias Vascongadas and in Navarra. The Catalan, which is a dialect of the Provengal, is spoken in Cataluna, Valencia, Alicante, and the Balearic Isles. In addition to these, there are the patois, or Bable, of the Asturias ; and slighter differences from the literary idiom occur in Leon, Aragon, and Andalucia. The Flamenco and the Germania must not be confused with the Romany, or true speech of the gypsies. The former, in the Cantos Flamencos, is simply the Andalucian dialect as spoken by the gypsies ; the Germania is only thieves' slang. Practically the tourist will need an acquaintance with Spanish and Portuguese only, in his wanderings through the Peninsula. Even among the Basques, it is much more rare to find a Basque in Spain who cannot understand Castilian than it is to find a French Basque who cannot understand French. The grammar and the pronunciation of Spanish are comparatively easy. The guttural j, the jota, is difficult to an Englishman, but easy to a Scotch or Irishman ; the written or printed h is not pronounced. The n produces the pronunciation of the gn of the French (gagwer), and of the Italian Spa^na. There are twenty-eight letters. The masculine article is el ; feminine, la ; neuter, lo ; but for the sake of euphony el is always used before a vowel as el agua (for la agua), el azucar, etc. The augmentatives are expressed by the final azo, aza ; on, ona ; ote, ota, added to the substantive : the diminutives by ico, ica ; illo, ilia ; ito, ita; uelo, uela. The comparatives are better, mejor ; worse, peor ; greater, mayor; lesser, menor, and superior, inferior. The adverbs tan, as much, mas, more, menos, less, are very constantly used. The super- liv GENERAL INFORMATION. latives end in foirao, isima ; errimo, errima. The s is the usual sign of the plural. ' This ' is este ; ' that/ ese ; ' that yonder,' aquel ; with the feminines esta, esa, aquella. ' Mine ' is mio (el mio, etc.) ; ' thine,' t uyo (el tuyo, etc.) ; ' yours,' vuestro, or, usually, de Vsted, which stands for the old Vuestra Merced, ' your worship,' written in abbreviation Vd. The accent is usually on the last or the penultimate syllable, and closely follows the Latin. In compounds, words, and inflexions Spanish has not the richness of some of the more northern tongues. The vocabulary, however, is very full, and it is long before a dictionary can be dispensed with in the study of the best authors. Still, for ordinary purposes, Spanish is easy of acquirement, and without some knowledge of it the greater part of the enjoyment of a tour will be lost. Grammars and methods abound ; the best of the latter being those of Ollendorff and Del Mar, and the best grammars the ' Academia ' and Salva. In default of any of these, the following glossary may be of use : VERB 'HABER, TO HAVE. Indicative Present. Yo he . . / have Tu has (familiar) thou hast El (ella) ha . he (or she) has Nosotros hemos we have Vosotros habeis you have Ellos han . they have GLOSSARY. VERB 'TENER,' TO HAVE, OR POSSESS. Indicative Present. Yo tengo . I have Tu tienes thou hast El tiene . he has Nosotros tene- mos . . we have Vosotros teneis you have (Usted tiene, usually used) Ellos tieneu . they have N.B. To have (possessive) is Tener. I have seen, He visto. VERB 'SER,' TO BE. Indicative Present. Yo soy . . / ant Tu eres (familiar) thou art El (6* ella) es . he (or she) is Nosotros somos we are Vosotros sois you are (more usually Ustedes son) Ellos (<5ellas) son they are I have a stick, Tengo un boston. The other tenses are : Pret. Imp. Pret. Per. Plusquamperf. Put. Imp. Put. Perf. Imperativo Sub. Pref. Sub. Pret. Imp Yo habia ; yo era Yo hube ; yo fue Yo habia habido ; yo habia sido Yo habre" sido Yo habre" habido ; yo habre sido . Haya yo ; sea yo . Yo haya ; yo sea . Yo hubiera, habria, hubi- ese ; fuera, seria, fuese Sub. Pret. Perf. . Yo habia habido ; yo haya sido Sub. Plusq^lamperf. Yo hubiera, habria, hubi- ese, habido; do. do. do. sido Sub. Put. Impf. . Yo hubiere ; yo fuere Sub. Segundo Perf. Yo hubiere habido ; yo hubiere sido Infin . . . Haber; ser In/in. Perf. . . Haber habido, haber sido Gerundio . . Habiendo; siendo Monday, Lunes Tuesday, Martes Wednesday, Mifrcoles Thursday, Jneves Friday, Viernes DAYS. Saturday, Sdbaao Sunday, Domingo A holiday, dia de fiesta Fast-day, dia de ayuno Once a-day, una vez al Each day, cada dia To-day, hoy To-morrow, manatic Yesterday, ayer GLOSSARY. MONTHS. Enerc Mayo Setiembre A year, un aflo Febrero Junio Octubre Marzo Julio Noviembre A century, un siglo A fortnight, una quin^ena Abril Agosto Diciembre A week, una semana NUMBERS. l ' ^ l 8, ocho 4, catorce 20, veinte {' ^^ 2> . 9, nueve 5, quince 21, veinte-y-uno g ' * ei * nia 3 ' tres . 10, diez 6, diez-y-seis (or veintiuno] f ~ enta t' cinco "' once 7, diez-y-siete 30, treinta "> . . a 6 se I2 ' ^ ce 8, diez-y-ocho 40, cuarenta Ioo> ctento 7, siete '3> trece 9, diez-y-mteve 50, cincuenta 1000. *W* FRACTIONS (LAS FRACCIONES). Half, la mitad Quarter, fourth, ^/ cuarto, la Treble, */ triple Third, el tercio, la tercera cuarta parte, etc. First, el primero parte Double, */ *&>/ elfondisia Chair, la silla Call my maid, llame Vd. 4 The bill, la cuenta Arm-chair, la butaca, el sillon mi doncelia How much ? cuanto ? A sofa, un sofa Bathing-house, casa de faftos Ivi GENERAL INFORMATION. 1HE DINNER (LA COMIDA). Let us have some dinner im- Coffee, el cafe mediately, Denos Vd. de comer en cuanto antes Chocolate, el chocolate A cup of chocolate, unajicara Dinner is ready, estd lista la de chocolate comida A cup, una taza Beef, carne de vaca The dessert, los postres Boiled meat, carne cocida The dining-room, el comedor Salt meat, carne salada A dish, un plato Roast, asado Table d'hote, la mesa redonda Beer, la cerveza Where is my cover ? donde Bottle, la botella Biscuit, un bizcocho Bacon, el tocino estd mi cubierto ? An egg, un huevo A fresh egg, un huevo fresco Brandy, el aguardiente^ A fish, el pescado cognac A fork, un tenedor Fresh butter, la manteca fresca Grapes, las uvas Hare, la liebre Cheese, el queso A chicken, una gallina un Ham, eljamon A knife, un cuchillo polio Lamb, la ternera A chop, una chuleta A lamp, una Idmpara A candle, una i>ela A lemon, un limon Claret, vino de Burdeos Liqueur, el licor Vin ordinaire, vino coinun, de Meat, la carne pasto Cold meat, carne fiambre To carve, trinchar Milk, la leche Mineral v/a.\.zr,clagua miner as Mutton, el camera An omelet, una tortilla Oysters, las ostras Pastry, pasteleria A cake, un pastel A peach, un abridor Potatoes, las patatas papas A plate, un plato A large dish, unafuente A rabbit, un conejo A salad, una ensalada To serve, servir A spoon, una cuchara A serviette, una seruilleta A tea-spoon, una cucharita Sweet, dulce A spoonful, ttna cucharada Soup, la sopa Sugar, el azucar Supper, la cena A tumbler, un vaso A wine-glass, una copa Vegetables, las legumbres Water, el agtta Wine, el vino THE POST-OFFICE (EL CORREO). The office, or bureau, el des- pacho A letter, una carta Are there any letters for me ? hay cart as para mf? Here is my name, este es mi apellido Postage stamps, sellos del cor- reo Single letter, una carta sen- cilia Where is the list ? donde estd la lista ? Is the office closed ? estd cer- rado el despacho ? Is it too heavy ? hay esceso dt peso ? Must this letter be prepaid I hay que franquear esta carta ? The postman, el cartero THE CUSTOM-HOUSE (LA ADUANA). An employe", un empleado, un vista Is the luggage examined here ? seregistraaqui el equipage ? Clothes, la ropa Worn, usado For my own use, para mi uso personal The tariff, el reglaviento The duty, los derechos What must I pay ? cuanto hay que pagar ? Contraband, el contrabando The keys, las Haves Shut the trunks, cierre Usted las maletas A dressing-case, un necessaire (not Spanish, but used) A carpet-bag, nn saco de noche A box, un baul, una caja A hat-box, una sombrerera A very large box, un mundo Linen, ropa blanca To search, visitar, registrar To plomber, poner los plomos DILIGENCE, POSTING, RIDING. Stable, la cuadra Horses and mules, cabal lerias Post-house, la parada Post-boy, el postilion, delan- tero Driver, el mayoral, conductor What is the name of this vil- lage? como se llama este pueblo ? Are we far? estamos lejosl We are near, estamos cerca The drag, la plane -ha The mecanique, el torno A wheel, una rueda The pole, la lanza A team of mules, un tiro de mulas A saddle, una silla A racing-saddle, ^{n galaflago Stirrups, los estribos A whip, ^^n Idtigo Stop ! fare Vd. : alto ! To stop, parar To post, correr la posta A pourboire, unapropina When shall we get to cuando llegaremos d ? A bridle, una brida Is there any danger? hay /* ligro ? Forward, adelante Take care, tenga Vd. cw'suicl VOCABULARY. Ivii A pen, una pluma A steel pen, unapluina tie acero Direction, sobrescrito, seftas Note-paper, papel de cartas LETTER-WRITING (PAR A ESCRIBIR UNA CARTA). Envelopes, los sobres Sealing-wax, el lacre A wafer, una oblea To put a letter into the P.O., echar una carta en el correi A letter-box, un buzon Take this letter to the P.O., lleve Vd. esta cartaalcorreo A CAB (UN COCHE DE ALQUILER). Drive me to Street, No. , vaya Usted d la calle , nurnero Are you engaged? estd Vd. desocupado ? By the hour, POT horn Stop here, pare Vd. aqut Go farther, vaya Vd. mas lejos Go back, vuelva Vd. Go fast, vaya Vd. de prisa Go slower, vaya Vd. mas despacio By the course, por una correra What is the fare ? cuanto ? It is too much, es demasiadn I shall not pay more, no pa- gar e mas. Not engaged, se alquila Coachman, cochero IN A TOWN (EN UNA CIUDAD). Where is? donde esta1 The theatre, el teatro The bank, el banco Cab-stand, la parada de caches de alquiler The museum, gallery, el musco The garden, eljardin The public walk, el paseo The palace, el palacio The magistrate, el magistrado The Mayor, el alcalde Which is the way to ? por donde se va d ? Turn to the right, vuelva Vd. d la derecha Turn to the left, vuelva Vd. d la izquierda A policeman, un agent e de po- licia, un guindilla A street, una calle A gendarme, un guardia civil A square, una plaza \ wish to see, deseo ver, visit ar I do not understand, no com- prendo I do not speak Spanish, no hablo Espaflol 1 am an Englishman, soy Ingles The washerwoman, la lavan- dera An apron, un delantal A cap, una gorra A collar, un cuello Cotton, el algodon A crinoline, un miriflttque A cravat, una cor bat a Uirty linen, ropa sucia Drawers, los calzonzillos A dressing-gown, una bata An under-petticoat, una ena- THE WASHING (LAVAR). An upper-petticoat, un guard- apies A flannel waistcoat, un chaleco interior, de Jlanela A napkin, una toalla A night-shirt, una camisa de dormir A pocket-handkerchief, un panuelo de la mano A neckerchief, los paftuelos Sheets, las sabanas A shirt, la camisa Stays, el corse, la faja Stockings, los ca Ice tines t las medias Washing, lavar Washing-bill, la cuenta de la ropa limpia Let us count, contemos Bring the clean linen immedi- ately, traiga Vd. la ropa. blanca en cuanto antes The stains, las manchas Starch, el almidon To iron, planchar. PRONUNCIATION. The following are the chief peculiarities : a as ah ; e as a, and sounded VOCABULAEY. A few useful Words and Expressions translated into Spanish for the USB oj Tourists. API-LE, manzana BACON, tocino Bath, bano - Hot, caliente Foot, de pics Bed, catna Bedroom, dormitorio Beef, came de vac a Beer, cerveza Beer-shop, taberna Bill (account), cuenta Book, libro Black, negro Blue, azul Bolster, cabecera Boots, botas Bottle, boteUa Braces, tirantft. Brandy, co f uif Bread, fiav. Iviii GENERAL INFORMATION. Breakfast, almuerzo Ham, jamon Potato, Patata Bug, chinche Bunch of grapes, racimo Hand, mano Handkerchief, panuelo Poultry, gallinas Preserves, conservas Butter, manteca Hard, duro Button, baton Hare, liebre RAILWAY, camino de hierro Hat, sombrero Rat, rata CAB, coche de alquiler Heat, calor Reading-room, sala de lectura Candle, vela Horse, caballo Red, Colorado Candlestick, candelero Hot, caliente Refreshment-room, fonda Carriage, caruage Roast, asado Cauliflower, coli/lor I, Yo Cheap, bar at o Ice, hielo SALMON, salmon Chamber-pot, olla Chambermaid, criada Ices, helados Iced water, agua con hielo Salt, sal Saucer, platillo Change, cambio Ink, tinta Scissors, tijeras Cheese, queso Sheets, sabanas Church, iglesia KEY, Have Shirt, camisa Claret, vino de Burdeos Kidneys, rittones Shop, tienda Clock, reloj Knife, cuchillo Sick, enfermo Coat, frac Slippers, chinelas Coat, frock, levita Cod, bacalao Coffee, caft LAMP, lampara Landlord, el amo Late, tarde Soap, jabon Socks, botines Soft, blando with milk, con leche Laundress, lavandera Sole (fish), lenguado Comb, peine Linen-draper, novedades Soup, sopa Cork, corcho Liver, higado Spoon, cuchara Cork-screw, tirabuzon Counterpane or blanket, Luggage, equipage Luggage, articles of, bultos Station (railway), estacion Steamboat, vapor mania Strawberries, fresas Cup, taza MACKEREL, maquerel Street, calle small, tazita Matches (lucifers),./Ay/Wy String, cordon Custom-house, aduana Melon (water), sandia Sugar, azucar Custom-house Officer, adu- Milk, leche anero or vista Midnight, medianoche TABLECLOTH, cubierto Cutlet, chuleta Milliner, modista Tea, te DEAR, caro Dining-room, comedffr Money, plata Morning, maitana Mustard, mostaza Thread, hilo Ticket, billete Train, tren Dirty, sucio Door, puerta Drawers (to wear), calzonzillos Drawers (chest of), comoda Mutton, carne de earner o NAPKIN, servilleta Needle, aguja Train, express, tren esprcs Toast, tostada Tobacco, tabaco To-day, hoy Driver, cochero OIL, aceite To-morrow, manana Towel, toalta Duck, Pato Oil (lamp), aceite de qu tuque Trousers, pantalones EARLY, temprano Oyster, ostra Turkey, pabo Eating-house, restaurant Egg, huevo Egg, boiled, huevo pasada per agua Partridge, perdiz Pastry, pasteleria Pear, pera UMBRELLA, paraguas VEAL, carne de ternero FISH, pescado Peas, guisantes Flea, pulga Pen, pluma WAISTCOAT, chaleco Flesh, carne Pepper, pimienta Waiter, mozo Foot, pie Physic, medicina Waiting-room, sala de d. 3 Fore cabin, segunda camara Pickles, picles canso Fork, tenedor Pie, pastel Washing, ropa Fowl, ave Pin, alftler Watch, reloj Fritters, bufluelos GLASS (wine), copa Glass tumbler, vaso Pillow, almohada Plate, plato Plate (silver), plata Plated goods, plaque Water (hot) agua calienle Water for feet, agua para los pies Water-closet, retrete Gloves, guantes Pork, cerdo Wick, mecha Goose, ganso Porter, cargador or mozo White, bianco Grape, uva Post-office, buzon Wine, vino Gravy, salsa Guard guarda Post-office (general), correo Postage stamp, sello Wine-glass, copa HAIR, pelo Postman, cartero Post-paid, franqueado YELLOW, amarillo Yesterday, ayer Hairdresser, peluqitem Pound, libra You. * ted LITERATURE. For the plural add J when the word ends with a vowel, and es when with a consonant. COMMON EXPRESSIONS AND QUESTIONS. What, which? que, cual? Where ? adonde ? Where is ? donde estd ? When? cuando ? \Vill you ? quiere usted ? Have you ? tiene usted ? By here, par aqui By there, par alld Are you? estd usted* How ? como ? Why ? porque ? That, aquel How much ? cuanto ? Too dear, demasiado caro Can you ? puede usted ? How many ? cuantos ? How do you do ? como le va ? Quite well, thank you, mu} bieti para servir a usted Which is the way to? por donde se va a ? {yo eckodemenos (miss)i First floor, primer piso yo necesito (require) I Second floor, segundo yo quiero (desire) I Make haste, de prisa Literature. IT is impossible to attempt in a Guide book a history of the literature of a country, nor will sensible readers look for it here. All that can be done is to name the masterpieces, to direct to the best sources of infor- mation about them, and to the booksellers where they may be most easily procured. The earliest great literary works of Spain are the 'Poema,' the * Cronicas ' and * Romanceros del Cid,' the ' Cantigas,' and c Las Siete Partidas' of Alfonso the Wise. These may be well studied by those who wish to become acquainted with the earlier phases of the language. In addition to the ' Poeina ' Spain has only one Epic, the * Araucana ' of Ercilla. In lyric verse the c Coplas ' of Manrique are unrivalled at the date (1479); so, too, the tragi-comedy of 'La Celestina' (1480), in spite of its freedom, is far in advance of any drama in the literature of other nations, and is the first to show what modern comedy might become. In later dramatic literature Spain is very rich. Cervantes (though his dramas have been put into shade by the Quixote), Lope de Vega, Alarcon, Tirso de Molina, Calderon, and others are worthy of all study. The fame of Don Quixote is world-wide. Contemporary with Cer- vantes, Gine"s Perez de Hita wrote the first modern historical novel, 1 Las Guerras de Granada.' In another style the first part of ' Lazarillo de Tonnes,' the picaresque novel attributed to Hurtado de Mendoza, is a masterpiece. Spain is rich in narratives of historical episodes, and especially in works relating to the conquest of the Americans ; but there is no really good general history. For beauty of language and expres- sion nothing can surpass the writings of the best mystics, on whatever side they wrote Luis de Granada, Fray Luis de Leon, or the almost Protestant Juan de Valde*s. Of all this ancient literature, a fuller account may be found in Ticknor's or Bouterwek's histories of Spanish literature, or even Sismondi's ' Literature of Southern Europe. 7 The modern literature of Spain is far from scanty. In Poetry, Zorilla and Espronceda are excellent disciples of Byron and Scott ; of living poets Nunez de Arce is probably the best. The modern Drama is by no means so far behind the ancient as is commonly supposed. Ix GENERAL INFORMATION. The best pieces of Echegaray, and of Tamayo y Baus, of the Catalan dramatists, are well worth study. The historical school is still mainly occupied with the collection and study of authentic materials a thing which has been possible only lately, since the throwing open of the archives of Simancas, of the Indies, and other great collections of docu- ments. Foreigners have joined hands with Spaniards in this toil. Of Economic writers we may mention Colmeiro and Azcarate, whose works well repay careful reading, as also do the essays of Canovas del Castillo. The Arabic and Hebrew writers on Spain are now zealously studied in the country. The Spanish Jews never forgot the tongue which they spoke in the Peninsula ; and translations of the Old Testament and many curious works by these exiles have been published in Ferrara, Venice, Amsterdam, London, and Constantinople. In the Novel, which claims so large a space in modern literature, Spain has some really good writers ; and the best of these works, unlike those of France, may be read by all. The romances of Fernan Caballero give rose-coloured pictures of Andalucian peasant life. In beauty of style Juan Valera approaches the Mystics, whom he professedly imitates ; but he does not write for women only. Perez Galdos imitates Erckmann-Chatrian in his 'Episodios Nacionales,' Jose Selgas, whose novels are less known than they ought to be. deserves honourable mention. The ' Tales of Becquer 5 should be read by all who visit Seville or Toledo. Pereda's novels describe the province of Santander, his l Sotileza ' being the best ; while the Senora Pardo Bazan does the same for Leon and Galicia. Alarcon's finest work, 'El Sombrero de tres Picos/ is a humorous version of a very old theme. Karities and first editions, original copies of the older literature, etc., can be procured almost as well in London as in Spain ; for the secondhand booksellers, as a rule, know the full market values, and are not disposed to sell at a lower rate. There is no lack, however, of handy modern editions at rates to suit all purses. Spain is not, like France or England, possessed of only one great literary centre. She has two, if not three, Madrid, Barcelona, and Seville. First and cheapest of these modern issues are the tiny but fairly printed volumes of the 'Biblioteca Universal,' at 2 reals, or 5d. each (Leganitos, 18, Madrid). In these are to be found a really good selection of the best Spanish authors of all time. Other excellent collections are those published by D. Cortezo and Co. of Barcelona, the 'Biblioteca Clasica Espanola' at 6 reals (2 francs) a volume, and the series 'Arte y Letras,' of more recent authors, at 12 reals, or 3 francs the volume. The same house also publish some good illustrated works. At Barcelona, too, is issued a series of rarer historical and theological works 'La Verdadera Ciencia Espanola' at 5 and 6 reals per volume. At a slightly higher price, 4 and 5 pesetas (francs) per volume, are the ARCHITECTURE. Ixi nicely printed 'Coleccion de Escritores Castellanos,' published by Dubrull at Madrid, and the well-known ' Biblioteca de Au tores Es- paiioles' in 70 volumes, 4to, at about 10 pesetas per volume, published by Rivadeneyra. Of foreign editions we may mention the * Coleccion de Autores Espanoles/ by Brockhaus, Leipzig, at 3 marks per volume. Some cheap collections, mostly of Andalucian or Arabic authors, are published at Seville. Architecture. SPAIN stands pre-eminent among nations for the number and importance of its religious, civil, and military edifices. It has been surpassed by no other country in this respect and equalled by very few, and even these we mean Italy, Germany, and France possess neither the same variety of styles nor yet the first-rate excellence of the examples of each. The different races that settled here in turn, whose sway lasted several centuries the Romans, Goths, and Arabs were all builders, all artists, each with their own peculiar style. Edifices were, besides, likely to be more numerous in this than in most other countries, in a land where quarries of beautiful soft and hard stone seemed to invite the builder's hand ; where oak and pine forests abounded ; where the glo- rious light of sun and stars give such relief to outlines, such depth to shadows, such brightness of tints to stone and marble ; where the soft air, but rarely moistened, embalms the ruin and preserves the monument better and more generously than the hand of man ; where rich mines exist everywhere, and yielded treasures to defray the expenses and mate- rials to heighten the effect. The architecture of Spain has been comparatively free from that foreign influence and fashion which in other countries have crippled native genius. It may be said to have seldom been imitative, or the result of adaptation and comparison. Foreign styles, no doubt, were implanted with new races in the rich soil of Spain ; they grew luxuriously, but never lost the standard original type ; and when it did at any period adopt new accessories, not general forms, the phase was native that is, belonged to races predominating exclusively and for centuries in Spain. Although placed so near Italy and France, yet Spain stood for centuries a stranger to both. Hence that abrupt difference in art, which observers may remark between France and Spain as they cross the frontiers. Spanish architecture during the middle ages was almost exclusively religious, palaces being little else than the chieftain's stronghold, and public edifices not required where the people were slaves ; its history has been to a certain extent that also of the Spanish Church. The vicissitudes of the latter may be traced in the numberless edifices that xi GKNERAL INFORMATION. were erected ; the antagonism between the regular and secular clergy, and final supremacy of the latter, determining the early generalisation of cloistered conventual buildings, and the subsequent erection, in their stead, of parish churches and cathedrals facts that influenced not a little the architects of these ages. The Church was an imperium in imperio ; the cathedrals were the centres of all the movement, the heart of the people. Within its precincts the cortes often assembled, the kings were christened, anointed, and buried. The mystical Autos, or Sacred Plays, were frequently performed. They were also museums of natural history, where stuifed animals of rare species were carefully preserved, beside specimens of precious marbles, corals, elephants' tusks, etc., sent as presents by Eastern princes or successful navigators. The greatest architects, painters, sculptors, were employed to erect and decorate them. The finest specimens of wood-carving, of iron and silversmiths' work, and glass, were to be sought for within their walls. In Spain, therefore, the student of architecture has a great deal to see, to admire, and to learn ; and despite the neglect and vandalism which have strewn the land with ruins and injured many a peerless relic, the number of edifices extant is very considerable, and the state of preservation remarkable. The circle is extensive, comprising, as it does, so many periods and styles, from the vast proportions of the Koman ruins of Me*rida and Murviedro ; the mysterious and gloomy Romano- Byzantine churches of Asturias ; the pomp of decoration, and lacelike ornamentation, never surpassed in Baghdad or Damascus, of the mosques and palaces of the Khalifs of Cordova, Seville, and Granada ; the bold- ness and sveltezza of the Tedesque (Gothic) cathedrals of Toledo, Leon, Seville, and Burgos ; the majestic Groeco-Roman of the Escorial, to end with the artistic anarchy and absurd caprices of the churrigueresque in modern times. The domestic architecture has some very fine examples, mostly belonging to the 16th and 17th centuries. Their style is Moro- Italian in the South, and Gotho-plateresque in Aragon, Catalonia, etc. Seville, Zaragoza, Barcelona, Segovia, contain several excellent specimens. The castellated architecture of Spain has not been as yet properly in- vestigated. There are, nevertheless, very interesting remains of walls, fortifications, cubo-towers, military roads, barracks, magazines, etc., of the Roman, Arab, Gothic, and Castilian periods at Almeria, Murviedro, Tarragona, the Leonese and Asturian cities, Seville, Granada, Segovia, etc. etc. They abound in Castile, as that very name evinces sufficiently ; and ' chateaux en Espagne/ likened to ' castles in the air/ was a saying which originated with the difficulties attending their capture. "We subjoin a short classification of Spanish architecture, including a list of the principal examples of each period and style, finishing with a list of the most celebrated architects, the date in which they flourished, and their most important works. ARCHITECTURE. 1. Roman Period. This favourite Roman province was filled with splendid monuments, mostly dating from the reign of Octavianus to Sept. Severus. They have been ill treated by Goth and Arab. Spanish neglect and distaste for yesterday have done the rest. Excavations are rare, and undertaken without plan or funds. The medals and coins of that period are of great value, to complete what remains and reproduce what is no more. Examples. Bridges of Alcdntara (the finest), of Me"rida, Badajoz, Martorell, Tudela, Alconetar (near Coria) ; the Aqueducts of Segovia, Me*rida, Tarragona, Carmona, Fuente Ovejuna ; the Military Roads of Me*rida to Cadiz, the Via Lata between Me"rida and Salamanca, Aldea Nueva de Banos, Vinueso ; the Walls, Towers, etc., of Coria, Lugo, Tar- ragona, Seville ; Triumphal Arches of Me"rida, Bara, Cabanes, Martorell, Torredembarra ; the Amphitheatres of Merida, Murviedro, Cartagena, Italica, Acinipo, Toledo. Besides the excavations in Salave Mines and Pgramidal Towers of Augustus, near El Padron, both in Asturias, Torres de Este (Prov. Coruna), the principal cities which antiquaries can make headquarters are Merida, Murviedro, Italica, Talavera la Vieja. 2. Latin-Gothic Style, 4th to 8th Century. The Roman style, as altered by the Goths, and with the Byzantine modifications it already possessed when they adopted it. From conver- sion of Constantine, 323 to 714, or Invasion of Arabs. The type of the Romano-Byzantine and Asturian. Examples. But few, principally at Toledo. Sr. de Assas' excellent work on Toledo (< Album Artistico de Toledo') may be consulted and relied upon. The Arabic translations are by S. Gayangos. 3. Asturian, 8th to II th Century. A peculiar style usually classed as Gothic, but more truly ' Romane,' allied to the Romane of S. France. Apparently an independent de- velopment of the Gallo- Roman, as the true Romanesque was of the Byzantine. Its characteristics are the round arch, single (sometimes three) narrow naves, barrel or very early-pointed roofs, good foliage, and occasionally animal enrichment. The * basilica ' arrangement is common. Examples. Santa Maria de Naranco and San Miguel de Lino (Oviedo) of 9th century ; San Salvador de Valdedios, Penalva, of the 10th century ; Santa Cristina de Lena, churches of Abamia, Barcena, etc., all in the province of Oviedo. 4. Romano-Byzantine, or Byzantine (Romanesque), divided into 2 periods : 1st, llth to 1 2th Century. Dawn; 2d, 1 2th to 13th Its Acme. In the 2d period the contact with the Arabs orientalised accessories bdv GENERAL INFORMATION. The pointed arch appears, and the transition to Gothic or Ogival is evident. It is always the original Latin forms, as modified in Asturias. but of superior art. Examples of the 1st. San Isidore of Leon, San Daniel of Gerona, cathedral of Jaca, San Cucufate del Valles and San Pablo of Barcelona. Of the 2d. San Juan de Amandi (Asturias) ; churches of Santiago, de Zamora, Veruela (Aragon) ; those that mark the transition to Gothic are Cathedrals of Tarragona, Salamanca, Zamora, Colegiata of Toro, San Vicente at Avila. The Norman is evident in several churches of this period in N.W. and E. of Spain. This style, modified by the different races that introduced it from Byzantium and Italy, is called Saxon in England, Romanesque and Romane in France, Lombard in Italy, Teutonic in Germany, Norman, etc. We have called it Byzantine throughout this work, as this is the usual appellation in Spain and will facilitate research. 5. Gothic, 13th to 1 6th Century. It is called sometimes in Spain Tedesco, as thought to be of Germanic origin ; was generalised mainly by St. Ferdinand and his queen, aided powerfully by French allied sovereigns, foreign bishops, and artists. It was not, nevertheless, a mere adoption of new and foreign forms, but a gradual combination with the Byzantine of the end of the 1 2th century. There is, however, little doubt that portions of the finest Gothic cathe- drals in Spain are admirable copies of French churches Is divided into three periods. 1st. (13th century) Transition, Dawn. 2d. The French Bayonnant (14th century), in all its purity, majesty, and originality. 3d. The Flamboyant, florid, orientalised (15th, and beginning of 16th century). Was rapidly adopted and successfully cultivated, the examples being among the most glorious in the world. Examples of the 1st (13th century). Earlier portions of cathedrals of Leon, Burgos ; the cathedral of Cuenca, of Segorve, of Corio, of Badajoz, Santa Maria de la Antigua (at Valladolid). Of the 2d (14th century). Cathedrals of Leon Burgos, Toledo, Murcia, Barcelona, Gerona, Tortosa, Seu of Zaragoza, Oviedo. Of the 3d (1 5th to beginning of 1 6th century). Cathedrals of Huesca, Segovia, Salamanca (Nueva), and the Cartuja of Miraflores ; belfries of the Cathedrals of Burgos, Leon, Oviedo, Capilla del Condestable in the Cathedral of Burgos, etc. 6. Revival or Plateresque, 1 6th Century. The Italian Cinquecento (so called from the 16th century, when it sprung) ; the French Renaissance, introduced into Spain under the Catholic Kings. The constant communications and wars with Italy ; the revival of learning, etc., aided very powerfully to its general adoption It was called estilo plateresco. from its surface-ornamentation and ara ARCHITECTURE. Ixv besques, which were as carefully wrought as a chiselled piece of plate. It might almost be divided into Gotho-plateresque (beginning of 16th century) and Italian-plateresque (end of 16th, beginning of 17th). Examples. Hospital de Santa Cruz (Toledo), Colegio Mayor de Santa Cruz (Valladolid), transept of the cathedral of Cordova, ditto of the cathedral of Burgos, San Marcos at Leon, town-hall at Seville, Sacristia Mayor of the cathedral of Seville. Private houses and patios at Seville, Zaragoza, Barcelona, etc. 7. Grceco-Roman, 16th and 17th Centuries. This pseudo-classical style, never entirely un-Gothicised in Spain, denuded of all ornamentation, pedantic, pagan, and cold, was generally adopted in the reigns of Charles V. and Philip II. The imitation was clumsy in general, out of keeping with the times and wants. There are, however, some exceptions which reveal genius, and are characterised by vast proportions and majesty. Examples. Palace of Charles V. at Granada ; Escorial ; palaces of Madrid, Aranjuez, La Granja ; S. facade of Alcazar of Toledo ; cathedrals of Granada, Valladolid. It is sometimes called estilo de Herrera, from this great architect's exclusive use of it. The decline of art in Spain followed that of the monarchy. Borro- minis school was followed, and the principles exaggerated. Rococo became the ' beau ide*al,' and the so-called classic edifices were over- loaded with gilding, plastered on wood, marble, and bronze, tortured into most ridiculous shapes. It was the faithful transcript of the age. Eacine and Corneille's periwig Romans dressed with ruffles and jabot. It may be denned the Gongorism of architecture, just as Gongora's poetry can be called literary churrigueresque a name generally applied to designate this bad taste, as being that of Jose* Churriguera, an otherwise able architect, who used and generalised it. V. Rodriguez, with others, endea- voured in vain to regenerate the style, and built several edifices that evince his good intentions. The examples are scattered all over Spain. Cathedral of El Pilar at Zaragoza ; palace of San Telmo at Seville ; and most of the churches of Madrid. Moorish Architecture. The fundamental elements belong to the Romano-Byzantine and Persian schools. Many, if not all, the principal characteristics are clearly defined in Scripture as already used in Palestine. The examples that are scattered in the breadth and length of the land, but more especially in the south, are of the highest order, and were never surpassed in the East, Sicily, or Africa. The style first introduced partook somewhat of the Berber character. Ixvi GENERAL INFORMATION. was simple, soberly decorated, the basilica ground-plan of the Byzantine being adopted for mosques great multiplicity of arches, baseless columns, being some of its features ; then, gradually advancing in splendour, it acquired more elegance and lightness at the cost of originality. Constant intercourse with Asia, and antagonistic hatred to the Christian, prevented mixtures with Gothic, with which its love of detail, minute ornamenta- tion, etc., had more than one similarity ; and many of its accessories stalactite ceilings, horseshoe arches, mosaic dados, etc. were readily adopted by the victorious Christians, and the combinations of their own with it were called Muzarabic. Moorish architecture may be divided into three periods and styles. 1st, Byzantine -Arabic ; 2d, Mauritane - Almohade ; 3d, Mudejar or Granadine. Examples. Of the 1st period (8th to 10th century), mosque of Cordova, remains of Medina Azzahra, near Cordova, walls of Ubeda, etc. Of the 2d (llth to 13th century), Giralda of Seville, chapel of Villa- viciosa in the cathedral of Cordova, great hall in the Alcazar of Seville, remains of a great mosque in the cathedral of Seville, Sta. Maria la Blanca at Toledo. Of the 3d (13th to 15th century), Alcazar of Seville, Alham- bra, Generalife, Cuarto Keal (Granada), Transito at Toledo, Casa de Pilatos at Seville, etc. A LIST OF THE MOST CELEBRATED SPANISH ARCHITECTS. ROMANO-BYZANTINE. Tioda. 802 (^Era, 840). Ch. del Salvador at Oviedo ; San Tirso. Viviano. gth century. San Pedro de los Monies. Gino. 980. San Salvador de Bafios. Vitamben (Pedro). 1065. San Isidore, at Leon. Guiberto Guitardo. 1117. Cloisters of San Pablo del Campo, Barcelona. Mateo (Maestro). 1160. Portions of Cath., Santiago. Sanchez (Benito). Cath. , Ciudad Rodrigo. Cristobal (Pedro). Gualterio (probably Walter). Jordan, etc. GOTHIC. XIII. AND XIV. CENTURIES. Perez (Pedro). 1226. Early portions of Cath. of Toledo. Sal-vat (Pedro). 1309. Castle of Bellver. A ndrea (Pedro). 1348. Works in Navarre. Arias (Lope). 1372. Alcazar of Ciudad Rodrigo. A Ifonso (Rodrigo). 1390. Cath., Toledo. Martinez (Alfonso). 1386. Cath., Seville. Fabra (Layme). 1392. Cath., Barcelona. Franch (Juan). 1381. Cath., Valencia. XV. CENTURY. Gomez (Alvar). 1418. Cath., Toledo Anequin de Egas (Belgian). 1454. Cath., Toledo. Enrique de Egos (his son). 1494. Cath., Toledo. Garcia (Pedro). 1421. Cath., Seville. Norman (Juan). 1462. Ditto. Pedro de Toledo. 1472. Ditto. Simon (Maestro). 1496. Ditto. Juan Colonia. 1442. Cath., Burgos. Gumiel (Pedro). 1492. Works at Alcala de Henares. XVI. CENTURY. Hontanon (Juan Gil). 1511. Cath., Sala- manca. Rohan (Guillen de). Ob. 1431. Cath., Leon. Gual (Bartolome'). Ob. 1416. Cath., Bar- celona. Compte (Pedro). Ob. 1486. Cath., Valencia. REVIVAL AND PLATERESQUE. A I. Berruguete. 1500. Sculpture more especially. Martin de Gainza. 1555. Cas. Real. (Cath., Seville). Diego Riaflo. 1530. Sc. Mayor. (Cath., Seville). Covarriibias (Alfonso). 1512-31. Works at Toledo. Escoyedo (Fray Juan). 1481. Works at Segovia. Ibarra (Pedro de). 1521. Works at Sala- manca. Ruiz (Fernan). 1523. Works at Cordova. Badajoz (Juan -de). 1512. San Marcos, Leon, etc. ARCHITECTURE. Ixvii A LIST OF THE MOST CELEBRATED SPANISH ARCHITECTS Continued. Borgofta (Felipe Vigarni}. 1525. Toledo, etc. Blay (Pedro). 1435. Works at Barcelona. Valdelvira (Pedro de). 1525. Cath., Jaen. GR^GCO-ROMAN. Machuca (Pedro). 1526. Palace of Charles V. of Granada. Siloe (Diego). 1529. Cath., Granada and Malaga. Villalpando Qs\&.} 1560. Divers works. Toledo (Juan de). 1563. Escorial. Vega (Luis and Caspar de). 1568. Alcazar of Seville, etc. Mora (Francisco). 1596. Works at Segovia. Escorial, Madrid. Monegro (J. Ba.) 1580. Escorial, Alcazar of Toledo. Jubara (Felipe). 1725. Royal Palace, Ma- drid. Rodriguez (Ventura). 1750. Divers works. Sabatini (Francisco). 1760. Works at Madrid. .CHURRIGUERESQUE. Churriguera.) Jose*. 1725. The following Spanish terms, applied to different portions, etc., of churches, will be found useful : Colegiata often stands for cathedral, as well as Iglesia Mayor. They are generally dedicated to the Virgin Mary. A collegiate church is composed of dignitaries and canons, who celebrate divine service as in cathedrals. Fachadas, fagades ; lonja, a long platform which often surrounds the churches exteriorly, and which is ascended by steps or grees, escalinata or gradas. The font is pila lautismal ; pila de agua lendita is the stoup or font containing holy water. GOTO (choir) ; trascoro, the back to it, often profusely decorated ; the respaldos del GOTO are the lateral sides of it. The stalls are sillas, forming silleria alta or baja, as the case may be. The choristers' desks are called atriles, the lectern facistol. Transept (Crossing), Orucero. Over it often rises a dome or lantern called cimborio, and from its shape, media naranja. The purclose or railings, rejas, are most remarkably executed, and deserve close inspection. The apse, dbside, contains a capilla mayor, with the high altar, altar mayor ; the reredos, or screen rising from it, is called retdblo. The latter are generally very magnificently gilt and sculptured. The right side of the altar that is, the right of the celebrant looking from the altar is called lado del evangelio; the left is lado de la epistola. Most cathe- drals have a parish church, parroquia (cura parroco is a parish priest), attached to them, and a capilla real, for the entombment of princes. The chapter is el cabildo. The sagrario is a special chapel, where the Holy of Holies is often placed, de manifesto, or displayed. The vestry is la sacristia, the sexton el sacristan. The relics, vestments, plate, etc., are kept in what is called el relicario. Monaguillos are the choir boys. Misa Mayor, High Mass. The belfry is la torre, el campanario. The principal objects to see in a Spanish church are : the high altar, stalls in the choir, lateral chapels, the relics and vestments in the sacristia. Ask for the sacristan, and explain the object of your visit. In case of unwillingness, address yourself to any priest attached to the church. The fee may vary from a peseta to five francs. In a cathedral, the Sacristan Ixviii GENERAL INFORMATION. Mayor must be applied to. The hours to visit are from 8 A.M. to 12, and from 4 to 5J P.M. The finest rejas are by T. Ba. Celma, 1600 ; Villal- pando (Fco.), 1561 ; Cristobal Andino, 1540. The finest church plate, custodias (where the Host is kept on festivals), calices, or sacramental cups, etc., are by the Arfes of Valladolid, 1500 ; Becerril, 1534 ; Juan Ruiz, 1533, etc. The painted glass is among the most splendid in Europe, though not often met with, as it was not a Spanish art, but imported from France, Belgium, and Germany. It was practised by Spaniards in the middle of the 15th century. The earliest and finest examples date from 1418 to 1560, and are to be sought in the cathedrals of Toledo, Leon, Seville, Burgos, Barcelona, etc. The composition is usually simple, vigorously conceived, broadly executed ; the forms following those of the sculpture, that served as models ; the colouring very rich and deep. The ornamentation at its earliest period was treated conventionally, in later periods nature was more directly imitated ; shades and shadows were introduced, and Moorish details mixed with the Gothic. The principal vidrieros, or painters on glass, were : Dolfin (Maese). 1418. Cath., Toledo. Santillana (Juan de) ) n .. . ., Valdivieso (Juan de) f X 497- Cath., Avila. Holanda (Alberto de). 1520. Cath. Avila, Chapel. Holanda (Nicolas de), his son. 1535. Ditto. Vasco de Troya. 1503. Cath., Toledo. Cordova (Gonzalo de). 1510-13. The best work in Cath., Toledo. wwrk. in v^aiu., JL uicuu. Vergara (Nicolas de). 1542, and his sons, Nicolas and Juan, 1574-90. Cath., Toledo. Micer Cristobal Aleman. 1504. Cath., Se- ville. The finest in Spain. Maestro (Enrique). 1478. Ditto. Gelandia (Bernardo de). 1518. H. Chapel, Seville. A rnao de Flandes. 1525. Cath., Seville. Vicente Menandro. 1560-69. Cath. , Seville. One of the best painters. Diego deValdivieso. 1562. Cath., Cuenca, etc. etc. List of Books of Reference on Spanish Architecture. 1. 'Ensayo, Historico sobre los di versos Generos de Arquitectura, etc., en Espana,' by Jose Caveda ; Madrid, Saunague, 1848, I vol. Carefully written, more literary than critical. 2. * Sumario de las Antiguedades Romanas en Espana,' by J. A. Cean Bermudez, I vol. fol. ; Madrid, 1832. Very useful and reliable; the indexes well drawn up. This, with ' Ponz's Morales' and Carballo's works, and Florez's Espana Sagrada> etc., forms an indispensable collection to antiquaries. The works of Yepes, Argaiz, Sandoval, and Berganza may be also consulted. 3. 'Noticia de los Arquitectos y Arquitectura,' by J. A. C. Bermudez; 4 vols. 4to ; Madrid, 1829. It is an improved edition of that written by Llaguno y Amirola, useful and reliable, but devoid of critical investigation, and written with that ignorance and indifference of the early styles which were current in his tune. 4. * Espana Artistica y Monumental,' 3 fol. vols. ; published at Paris; 1846, by Villamil. The drawings are the only important portion, and by Carderera, whose knowledge of Spanish art is well known. The work com- prises only the Castiles. 5. * Some Account of Gothic Architecture in Spain ' by G. E. Street, London, J. Murray, 1865 ; most competently written by this the able author of Brick and Marble Architecture in Italy, and profusely illustrated. The author has omitted the Arch, of S. and S.W. of Spain. His judgment is somewhat biassed by too exclusive a preference for one or two styles. PAINTINGS. IxiX 6. 'Monumentos Arquitectonicos de Espana,' etc., published by the Spanish Government orders, Madrid 1859-68. This great work, most valuable and splendidly got up, is in course of publication. Want of method, and, it is to be expected, eventual want of funds, will make this, an otherwise most valuable work, comparatively a failure. ' Recuerdos y Bellezas de Espana,' in several vols., by Madrazo, Quadrado, etc. The drawings by Parcerisa. The text is generally indifferent. A volume for each province. ' Toledo Pinteresco ' and * Album Artistico de Toledo ' (see Toledo.) are valuable works on the Gothic, Romano-Byzantine, and Moorish remains in that city. The Moorish architecture can be fully studied in Owen Jones' * Plans etc., of the Alhambra,' London, 1842. It is considered one of the most important and accurate works that has ever been written on Moorish art. 'The Alhambra Court in the Crystal Palace,' one vol. (6d.} 1854, is the substance of that able architect's larger work. ' Antigiiedades Arabes? by Lozano, 4 vols. 1785, 2 editions; it has been copied by Murphy in his * Arabian Antiquities,' London, 1816. * Erinnerungen von Wilhelm von Gail,' Munich ; magnificently got up. Upon Arabic architecture the * Discurso' of Senor Riaiio at the Academy of San Fernando, 1 6th May 1880 (Arriban, Madrid) will be found useful. The same author's 'The Industrial Arts of Spain ' (London, Chapman and Hall) now embraces most of the provinces, and is well done. Didron's valuable ' Iconographie ' will be of use to amateurs in explaining several passages that appear dimly in the stone pages of the early Romano-Byzantine and early Gothic, dead languages now with us. Mr. Fergusson's '111. Handbook of Architecture' will prove useful. There are, besides, several minor works and papers : Mr. Waring's ' Architectural Studies in Burgos,' etc. ; ' Sketches in Spain, from Nature, Art, and Life,' John Lomas, 1884, etc. A new work by Corteza of Barcelona, 'Espana : sus Monumentos y Artes,' is good. Paintings. PAINTING has not followed in Spain the gradual growth that is notice- able elsewhere ; its period was indeed most glorious, but resembled that of a meteor, and after a short reign of splendour, passed away, leaving no traces behind. Spanish art was never cultivated for its own sake, but as merely instrumental in illustrating the most striking subjects of religion. The early period of Spanish painting, if any distinct one can be traced, followed the character and fate of sculpture. As long as the church was truly militant, all those features that characterised the hostile rival religion of the Pagans were carefully proscribed. Moses, Mahomet, Luther, were all opposed to images of the Deity, and the early Council of Illiberis (near Granada), in its 36th Canon, says * Placuit picturas in ecclesia esse non debere, ne quod colitur et adoratur in parietibus depingatur.' When, however, the church became triumphant, sculpture and painting were largely resorted to. Images of saints, and that of the Virgin more especially, were rapidly multiplied, and have to this day superseded that of God. Painting in its earlier period was strictly sculptural and conventional. It was used to decorate crypts, the 1XX GENERAL INFORMATION. apse, with subjects from the Old Testament, and the ordinary ones of saints, the Creation of the World, Paradise, the Last Judgment, and Purgatory. The miniature painting in the missals, in the illuminated MSS., and on the stained glass, must have influenced its style and developed its resources. We think that early Byzantine painters were the first models that were copied from, and that Flemish and German painting was not without influence during the 14th and 15th centuries, and that from that period henceforth the elements were either completely national or borrowed from Italy. The principal period of Spanish painting is between the 16th and 17th centuries. The power and wealth of the enlightened churchmen that were its most munificent patrons, the pros- perity of the monarchy at that time, the constant intercourse with Italy, the influence of the renaissance, and, not a little, the high favour that foreign artists enjoyed at the Courts of Charles V. and the Philips con- tributed most powerfully in creating emulation and raising the national schools to great eminence and repute. Artists were treated on the same footing as the haughty warriors, the aristocracy of blood. Art followed, as usual, the fate of the Empire, and declined when the sun of the House of Austria went down. Under the Bourbons, the French school was servilely copied, and has continued to be so to this day. The Eoyal Academy of San Fernando has produced no genius. There are yearly exhibitions, juries, prizes, and speeches, but few purchasers to encourage and reward the merit often displayed. Yet the land can boast of imperishable names ; Moro, Coello, Juan de Juanes, Navarrete El Mudo, Eibera, Kibalta, Velazquez, Murillo, Zurbaran, Cano, Koelas, and Valdes Leal in the palmy days of its art life ; Goya, Fortuny, and Madrazo in the time of its decline. On the 13th of June 1844, a royal decree established a central com- mission, ' de Monumentos Historicos y Artisticos del Reino.' The section for painting applied its labours to collecting the best pictures that had been overlooked by foreign dealers and amateurs at the suppression of convents and the time of civil war. About 4500 pictures, mostly rubbish, were collected, and formed the nucleus of the different Museos Provinciales that were established at several of the most important cities, the principal of which are those of Madrid, Seville, Valencia, and Valladolid. Besides these, the Royal Museo at Madrid, the Royal Palace there, and the pictures scattered in the noblemen's mansions in the metropolis, there are few important collections. Many of the finest Spanish pictures decorate the galleries of English noblemen, and others are to be seen in the Louvre. Spanish painting differs widely in style from any other. Its charac- teristic is, we should say, naturalism, realism, in one sense of the word. It is characterised by monotony of subject, of handling, and of colouring. Spanish painters studied man, not nature, and of man only two types 01 varieties of the hero viz. the martyr and the warrior; but the former PAINTINGS. Ixxi almost exclusively. Home and rural scenes are generally wanting. Its productions bear the stamp of the solemn and ascetic spirit and heavy gloom that pervaded the cloister. The study of the treatment ol Madonnas by Raphael, compared with that of the same subject by Murillo, will teach more than volumes ; for while the latter in his images of Virgins ' raised a mortal to the skies/ the former always * drew an angel down ; ' and most of the Spanish pictures of saints were portraits. This monotony of subjects, arising from want of imagination, as well as from the invariable nature of the demand, is clearly evidenced in the list of the pictures of any Spanish master. Zurbaran's Carthusians, Roelas' Jesuits, Murillo's Concepciones and Infant Deities, Ribera's Martyrdoms, Juanes' well-known Heads of Christ, and most others, excepting Velazquez, who was Italian in many things. Animal life they knew little of, though the few bodegones that exist reveal their proficiency in that line. Sea paintings were equally overlooked by painters born in a peninsula whose shores are so varied in aspect, so full of character, and picturesque. Landscape was treated only as an accessory, and seldom resorted to. Velazquez painted a few, but they are merely views intended as frames to groups. Iriarte (1620) who, Murillo said, was worthy of painting scenery in Paradise, was the only landscape painter, and he painted nature unnaturally ; and in modern days, Villamil, though effective and improved by the study of Roberts, is stiff, pseudo-classical, and places nature always ' en scene/ The colouring is also monotonous, being that suggested by nature around ; the blues are, of course, very beautiful, rich, deep, and fiuninous those of the sky ; the tawny red-burnt soil has indicated a similar colour ; the greens, that only exist in Asturias, where there never was much art, are, consequently, poor and defective. In general they will, on close examination, appear greater draughtsmen than colourists. A quality of Spanish painters, never surpassed and seldom equalled even by the best Italian masters, lies in the cast of the draperies, for which the long and many-folded dresses of the monks, and the capa universally worn, were such good models. Mr. Schepeler thinks, however, that in this respect they never attained to the simplicity and dignity exemplified by the Italians in their draperies, and evinced even in the fantastic tubular folds of the German school. There are in Spanish pictures extra- ordinary life, truth to nature, a deep feeling of piety, and a simplicity and power that speak to the heart of the observer. The composition is generally excellent and simple, though evincing carelessness in the handling of secondary figures, and failing in the few instances of large groups and complicated action. The background is deficient, the details most correct and minute. Such are, we think, the principal characteristics of Spanish painting. As commentators of Chris- tian mythology, as portrait-painters, the Spanish masters stand unrivalled ; and such glorious names as Velazquez, Murillo, Ziirbaran, and Alfonso Cano are sufficient to assign to the schools of Spain the first rank after Ixxii GENERAL INFORMATION. those of Italy, and place them on a par with those of Germany, Flanders, and Holland. Spanish painting may be divided into three great schools, viz., Seville, Madrid, Valencia, which are in turn susceptible of subdivisions, such as Aragonese, Catalonian, Estremadura, etc. Their differences of style are not, however, clearly defined. School of Valencia. Juan de Juanes (or Joanes), born at Fuente la Higuera (province of Valencia) in 1523 ; died at Bocairente, December 21, 1579. His real name was Macip ; he Latinised his Christian name according to the habit of the age. He studied at Rome, and was a pupil of Giulio Ro- mano and Perin del Vaga. Subjects. Saviour's Heads, Lives of the Saints. Style. The founder of the school. He was one of the first to introduce the knowledge of Italian art into Spain, and was considered by some as Raphael's most successful imitator. Correct drawing, good modelling, power of expression ; his perspective falls rather short, but is exact to truth. His colouring is warm, golden, luminous ; his draperies elegantly folded ; the details, even the hair and beard, most delicately touched. His Christs and saints have all an expression of mystic inspira- tion, love, and tender softness. Principal Works. These are at the Public Picture Galleries of Valencia ; also in the Cathedral, and the Church of San Nicolds ; at the Picture Gallery of Madrid a Last Supper, No. 755, and portrait of Castelvy, No. 754. N.B. He had a son, Juan Vicente Joanes, who imitated his father's style. Francisco Ribalta, born at Castellon de la Plana (province of Valencia) 1551 ; died Jan. 14, 1628, at Valencia. He studied first at Valencia, then at Rome, under the Caracci. Style. Imitated the Bolognese masters, and his style is after Sebastian del Piombo. His reds are those of the soil of the rich Huerta of Valencia ; fine attitudes, good composi- tion, deep knowledge of anatomical drawing. Principal Works. At the Picture Gallery at Valencia, at Corpus Christi College at Valencia, and Four Evangelists at the Picture Gallery of Madrid. Juan Ribalta (his son), born 1579 ; died 1628. Pupil of his father, and painted so like him that it is next to impossible to detect the differ- ence. Pictures by him may be seen at Valencia and Madrid Picture Gal- lery, and a Crucifixion at S. Miguel de los Reyes, at Valencia. Jose Bibera(Il Spagnoletto), born at Jdtiva, January 12, 1588; died at Naples, 1656. Pupil of Ribalta. Studied principally in Italy under Caravaggio and the naturalists. Style. Martyrdoms and Lives of the Saints. Adopted three styles 1. when he studied Caravaggio ; 2. when he imitated Correggio ; 3. more personal, greater expression in physical pain and moral beatitude, power of drawing, profound knowledge of anatomy. Great force of colour and effect. Principal Works. At Madrid Picture Gallery, No 989, Martyrdom of St. Bartholomew ; 982, Jacob's Ladder ; 1004, Prometheus ; 986, a dead Christ. At Osuna, a PAINTING SCHOOL OF TOLEDO. Ixxiii Crucifixion ; at Salamanca, a Concepcion and several others. His finest, a Pieta, is in San Martino at Naples. Jacinto Geronimo Espinosa, born at Cocentaina (province of Valencia) 1600 ; died 1680 ; son of Rodriguez, also a painter, and pupil of Eibalta (Miguel Espinosa, his son). Style. Excellence of drawing, well chosen and natural attitudes of his figures, power of chiaro-oscuro. He imitated the Caracci school. Principal Pictures. At the Picture Gallery at Va Lencia and Madrid, where a Magdalen (No. 722), and Mocking of Christ (No 723), Transfiguration, and Death of St. Luis Beltran, are to be seen. Pedro Orrente, born at Montealegre (province of Murcia) 1560 ; died at Toledo in 1644. Style. Imitated Bassano successfully ; a good colourist ; painted principally cattle and Adorations of Shepherds. Principal Works. At Picture Gallery, Valencia (five pictures), and at Picture Gallery, Madrid. Esteban March, died 1660. He was pupil of Orrente. N.B. A son of his, Miguel, also painted, and died at Valencia, 1670. Style. Imitated Orrente and Bassano. His usual subjects battles and soldier- life ; his execution free and powerful. Principal Works. At Valencia and Madrid, where is his Camp (No. 781) Pablo Pon tons, was a pupil of Orrente His works only seen at Valencia. Zarinena Several painters of this name. Of inferior merit, and principally seen at Valencia. School of Toledo. Fernan Gonzalez (1400). Juan Alfon (1418). Painted several retablos at the Cathedral of Toledo. Pedro Berruguete. Father of Alonzo, the great sculptor, and painter, and architect. Antonio del Rincon, born at Guadalajara 1446. His works are few. Portraits of Ferdinand and Isabella, at Chapel de la Antigua, Cathedral of Granada. Some of the richness and transparency of the Venetian School. Fernando del Rincon. Son and pupil of former. No work known. He worked with Juan de Borgona at the great retablo of the Cathedral of Toleda, and at Alcala de Henares. Comontes, born 1495 ; died 1529. Antonio and Inigo, who were brothers, were both scholars of Ant. del Rincon. Inigo painted the history of Pilate on the wall at the side of one of the doors of the cathedral of Toledo, etc. Francisco, also a painter, son of Inigo (died 1565), was painter to the Chapter of Toledo in 1547. Luis Morales (surnamed ( el Divino' as much from the subjects he treated as from the excellence of the execution), born at Badajoz 1509 ; died at Badajoz 1566. No picture of his earlier than 1546. Style. Might be called the Spanish Perugino ; colouring warm and brilliant Ixxiv GENERAL INFORMATION. His pictures of Christ breathe the most sublime expression of self- sacrifice and resigned love ; hard in the outlines ; his modelling wants relief ; too minute in details, such as the hair and beard ; good ana- tomy, correct drawing, and the half-tints very well understood and rendered. Principal Pictures. At Madrid Picture Gallery, which contains six specimens ; sacristy of church at Osuna : at Alcantara, over high altar of the church of the convent of the order ; at cathedral of Badajoz, and at parish church of Arroyo del Puerco, a village between Merida and Placencia, where there are sixteen of the finest he ever painted. Bias del Prado, born at Toledo 1497 ; died about 1593. Contem- porary of the former, and said to have been a pupil of Berruguete, Works. Founding of the Church of Our Lady of Loretto, at Royal Academy, Madrid, and Picture Gallery, Madrid, No. 944. Sanchez-Cotan, his pupil. Painted illustrations of lives of Saints in cloisters of Carthusian convents (Granada, etc.) Luis de Carbajal, or Carabajal, born at Toledo 1534 ; died about and after 1613. Painted with Bias del Prado at Toleda, at the Escorial, and the Pardo. A Magdalen by him is to be seen at the Madrid Picture Gallery. Domenico Theotocopuli (El Greco), born in Greece, studied under Titian. He lived at Toledo in 1577, and died there 1625 ; also a good sculptor and architect. His son, Jorge Manuel Theotocopuli, was a sculptor and architect. Style. At first imitated Titian successfully. The personal second style he adopted was extravagant in length, and often in composition ; his colouring ashen-grey ; it was marked by great affectation. His last manner, when he became mad, is simply absurd. Principal Works. At sacristy of the cathedral of Toledo, Church of Sto. Tome* in same city, Burial of Count Orgaz (his masterpiece) ; at the Escorial ; and ten pictures at the Picture Gallery of Madrid. Juan Bautista Mayno, born 1569 ; died at Madrid 1649. He was a pupil of El Greco, and was employed by the Chapter of Toledo. His works may be seen at Picture Gallery, Madrid. Imitated Veronese. Luis de Velasco. Resided at Toledo in 1564 ; died 1606. Three pictures in the cloisters of Cathedral of Toledo. Luis Tristan 3 born near Toledo 1586 ; died 1640. The favourite pupil of El Greco. His principal works are at Toledo and in the parish church of Yepe*s. School of Seville. Juan Sanchez de Castro. 15th century; a fresco in Church of San Julian, Seville (exec. 1484), and a Holy Family; died about 1516. Pedro Sanchez. "Worked in the cathedral of Seville ; died about 1462. Juan Nunez, a pupil of Sanchez de Castro. A Virgin and Christ in Quarto de los Subsidies, attached to cathedral of Seville. PAINTING SCHOOL OF SEVILLE. Ixxv Luis de Vargas, born at Seville 1502 ; died 1568 ; may be considered as the founder of the school of Seville ; went to Italy, where he remained twenty-eight years, and studied under Perin del Yaga, whose style he imitated. His earliest work at Seville is the altar-piece of chapel of the Nativity in the cathedral ; and perhaps his best La Gamba, or Generation, in the S. aisle of the same church. Pablo de Cespedes, born at Cordova 1538 ; died 1625 ; in 1608 studied in Italy. Imitated Correggio, and was a great colourist. " The painters of the school of Seville learnt from him the fine tone of their flesh-tints." Principal Works. Cathedral of Cordova, Chapter House and Contaduria Mayor of the Cathedral of Seville. His best pupils were Zambrano, Penalosa, Contreras, Vela, Mohedano. Excelled in fruit-pieces. Alonso Vazquez, born at Eonda ; died 1650. Worked withMohedeno in the convent of St. Francis, Seville ; also excelled in fruit-pieces. Pedro de Villegas Marmolejo, born at Seville 1520; died 1597. Studied in Italy, and imitated the Florentine school. A Visitacion in cathedral, Seville. Juan de las Roelas, born in 1558 or 60; died 1625. Studied at Venice with the pupils of Titian and Tintoretto. He was Zurbaran's master. Style. His colouring is very fine and rich ; great softness of execution " No one ever painted the sleek grimalkin Jesuit like Eoelas." Had great influence in the Seville school. Principal Works. At Olivares (collegiate church), Cathedral of Seville, Hospital de la Caridad, Seville, Picture Gallery of Seville, University of Seville, Church of San Isidoro, Seville. Luis Fernandez, lived during end of 16th century. He is known not by his pictures, but as the master of Juan del Castillo and his brother Augustin, also of Herrero and Pacheco. Juan del Castillo, born at Seville 1584. He was the master of Alonso Cano, Pedro de Moya, and Murillo. Six fine specimens at the Picture Gallery, Madrid, and at the Museo, Seville. Agustin del Castillo, brother of Juan del Castillo, and pupil of Fer- nandez. No works extant except an Adoration of the Kings, at the Ca- thedral of Cadiz. Antonio del Castillo, the son of Juan del Castillo, and pupil of Zur- baran. He died, in 1667, from the effects of envy and annoyance caused by the sight of Murillo's pictures in the Cathedral of Seville. Francisco Pacheco, born 1579 ; died 1654. The father-in-law and teacher of Velazquez, and a remarkable writer on painting. He was a pupil of Fernandez. Style. Correct drawing, good and equal style, natural and noble attitudes of his figures ; he was intimately acquainted with all the effects of light and perspective. His colouring was some- what hard and stony, and the execution often constrained. Principal Pictures. Picture Gallery, Madrid, and at the Churches of San Sebastian and Santiago at Mala* de Guadaira. Luis Pascual Gavdin* a Carthusian monk- died 1621 : worked at Ixxvi GENERAL INFORMATION. Seville. His l Marriage of the Virgin' offended Pacheco's sense of pro- priety in the representation of holy personages, as he dressed the Virgin, without any mantle, in a Venetian petticoat, etc. Francisco Herrera (el Viejo, or the elder), born at Seville 1576 ; died 1656. A fellow-pupil of Pacheco at the school of Fernandez. He also engraved on copper, and painted frescoes. Style. ' Introduced into the school of Seville that bold and vigorous touch which was adopted by Velazquez.' His drawing is correct, his knowledge of anatomy and pro- portions of the human body remarkable ; expression, symmetry in the groups, good and vigorous colouring, often laid on with an extraordinary iinpasto. Principal Works. Picture of San Hermenegildo at the Picture Gallery, Seville, and a Last Judgment in the Church of San Bernardo, Seville. Francisco Herrera (el Mozo), born 1622; died 168 5; son of the former. (His elder brother, Herrera el Rubio (the fair), was also a painter, less known). He studied in Rome, and, like his elder brother, painted almost exclusively fish, and still-life pieces, and was called at Rome * II Spagnuolo degli pesci.' Style. Imitated his father's style ; surpassed him in the painting of flower-pieces and bodegones ; inferior in his colouring, where the reddish half-tints predominate, and was well ac- quainted with the happiest effects of chiaro-oscuro. Principal Pictures. Picture Gallery, Madrid, No. 744 ; Cupola of the Church of Atocha, Madrid ; and Cupola of Choir of the Church of San Felipe el Real. NJ3. His uncle, Bartolome, painted portraits at Seville. Alonso Cano, born 1601 at Granada; died 1667. Studied under Pacheco and Juan del Castillo, and was also a great sculptor and an architect. Style. It is doubtful whether he was not greater as a sculptor than as a painter. His manner is soft, rich, and pleasing, and he might be called the Spanish Correggio. His pencil was free and fertile, yet correct and natural ; his colouring rich and fine, but a little smoky ; the outlines consequently appear somewhat indistinct when one is close, though the detail and purity of the form may be seen at a certain dis- tance from the picture. In the expression of his figures he was full of sentiment and tenderness, without being feeble or affected. The taste of his draperies and his forms in general pure. Principal Works. Cathedral of Granada, Picture Gallery, Madrid (eight specimens), Church of Monte Sion, Seville, Cathedral of Seville, University of Seville, Church of San- tiago, Malaga, Church of San Girus, Madrid. Pedro Atanasio Bocanegra, born at Granada. "Was a pupil of Cano, and studied also Pedro de Moya's style. Worked at the Cathedral of Granada, where see Virgin and San Bernardo, the Scourging at the Escorial, and Picture Gallery, Madrid. Sebastian de Llanos y V r aides , lived in 1667. A pupil of Herrera el Viejo, and was killed by Cano in a duel His works are very seldom found ; they are very rich in. colouring. PAINTING SCHOOL OF SEVILLE. Ixxvii Pedro de Moya, born at Granada 1610 ; died 1666. Fellow-pupil ol Alonso Cano and Murillo under Castillo. Principally imitated Van Dyck, whom lie went to study in England in 1641. His successful imi- tation of this master is said to have exercised some influence on the style of Murillo. Francisco Zurbaran, born at Fuentes de Cantos (Estremadura) 1598 ; died 1662. Was a pupil of Las Koelas. Style. Most correct drawing ; called the Spanish Caravaggio. Equal to Cano in reputation, not so tender but more vigorous ; great loftiness of wonderful finish of the details in dress, and beauty and truth of the heads ; generally severe in style, simple in composition ; a peculiar pinky tone, especially in female cheeks. The prevalent use of rouge at that time influenced his eye, as it did that of Velazquez. Principal Works. Picture Gallery, Seville, Cathedral of Seville. At the Picture Gallery, Madrid, there are fourteen specimens. Juan de Valdis Leal, born at Cordova in 1630 ; died 1691. A pupil of Antonio del Castillo, and the rival, or rather adversary, of Murillo. Style. Forced and violent attitudes, sombre and gloomy subjects, a vigorous and brilliant colouring, somewhat exaggerated, and tinted with violent and green tones. Principal Works. La Caridad, Seville ; Pic- ture Gallery, Seville; Picture Gallery, Madrid, No. 1049. Bartolome Esteban MUKILLO, born at Seville, January 1, 1616 ; died at Seville, April 3, 1682. Was a pupil of Castillo, never visited Italy, and began by imitating Koelas and Zurbaran. Style. Has three recog- nised different manners : 1. The frio, or cold ; 2. The cdlido, or warm ; 3. The vaporoso, or misty. In the first, ' the outline was decided, if not hard, and the tone of the shadows and the treatment of the lights remind us of Zurbaran or Caravaggio.' The second, which he adopted about 1648, is characterised by a softer outline and a more mellow colouring. His third style, which is the most characteristic of his works (though the painter preferred the second, or cdlido himself), exhibits softness and vigour with the finest colouring. He now painted rather hastily, which produces a vaporous, hazy effect thrown over the whole a sort of luminous veil. He was pre-eminent as a colourist. The colour of the flesh in contact with linen is very fine ; and he has an object distinct from most of his countrymen, and ' aims at the general character of flesh when tinged with the glow of the sun. It is never minute or par- ticular, but a general and poetical recollection of nature ; and when suc- cessful it is of the same class, and, in no remote degree, an approach to Titian and Correggio.' (Wilkie.) His most successful works have for subjects the Virgin and Infant Deity. He was, therefore, called ' El pintor de los concepciones,' and the children and cherubs he painted, ' los nines de Murillo.' Principal Works. His own favourite painting is St. Thomas giving Alms, at the Picture Gallery, Seville he is better studied here than at Madrid ; Picture Gallery, Seville ; Cathedral, ditto ; La Caridad, ditto, and Picture Gallery, Madrid. Ixxviii GENERAL INFORMATION. Sebastian Gomez. A pupil and the mulatto slave of Murillo. Pedro Nunez de Villavicencio, born at Seville 1635; died 1700. He was a pupil of Murillo, and was, with Tobar, the best pupil and imitator of the master's style, and their works are often mistaken as being by him. (See at the Picture Gallery, Madrid, No. 1119.) Francisco Meneses Ossorio, died beginning of 18th century. Pupil of Murillo. He painted at Seville, and finished at Cadiz the picture his master was painting when he fell from the scaffold and soon after died. Juan Garzon, died at Madrid in 1729. A pupil of Murillo. Ignacio de Iriarte, born at Azcoitia 1620 ; died 1685. Pupil of Herrera el Viejo. Painted almost exclusively landscapes. Tobar, born 1678 ; died 1758. Pupil of Fajardo and successful imi- tator of Murillo. Specimens at Chapel del Consuelo (Cathedral, Seville) ; two at Picture Gallery, Madrid. School of Madrid. May be also called of Castile, and is composed of painters from Sala- manca, Burgos, Valladolid, Madrid. Gaspar Becerra, born 1520 at Baeza ; died 1570. Studied in Italy, and was made by Philip II., in 1563, his court-painter. Introduced with Berruguete the Italian taste in Spain. Most of his works have perished. A retablo in the Cathedral of Astorga ; very Florentine style. Alfonso Sanchez Coello, born, beginning of 1 6th century, near Valencia ; died 1590. Was probably of Portuguese origin (Coelho) ; became a pupil of Antonio Moro, and studied in Italy. Style. ' Was peculiarly distinguished in portraits. Great life and truth to nature.' He enjoyed great distinction from Philip II. Principal Works. At Picture Gallery, Madrid, eight fine pictures, all portraits, save a St. Catherine, painted on cork ; Escorial. Juan Pantoja de la Cruz, born at Madrid 1551 ; died at Madrid 1610. The best pupil of A. S. Coello. * These pictures, by Coello and Pantoja, of Infants and Infantas, bristling with the stiffness and formality of the old Spanish Court, independently of their merit as works of art, are in themselves most interesting.' Several pictures, mostly portraits, in the Picture Gallery, Madrid. J. Fernandez Navarrete, surnamed El Mudo, born at Logrono, 1526 ; died 1579. He studied in Italy, and worked in the Escorial. ' One of his best is the Baptism of Christ at Madrid Picture Gallery, from the Escorial. A colourist of the Titian school.' Luis de Carbajal, or Carabajal, born at Toledo 1534; died begin- ning of 17th century. Painted at the Escorial, Pardo, and Cathedral, Toledo, with Bias del Prado (1591). His Magdalen, a masterpiece, is in Madrid Picture Gallery (No. 675). He was named painter to Philip II. VELAZQUEZ (Don Diego Velazquez de 8ilva), born at Seville 1599 ; PAINTING SCHOOL OF MADRID. Ixxix died at Madrid 1660. Became a pupil of Herrera the Elder and Pacheco, and studied also in Italy. Style. He first imitated Caravaggio and Ribera, of which the Aguador de Sevilla, now in Apsley House, and an Adoration of Shepherds, in the Louvre, are examples. He was essentially a * naturalist.' He stands as a portrait-painter side "by side with Vandyck and Titian. He often falls short of the elegance of the former, and he is inferior to the latter in brilliancy and colour ; but the feeling and spirit of his subject are admirably conceived and executed. Every touch has meaning, and nothing is conventional. t For handling no one surpasses him, but in colour Reynolds is much beyond him, and so is Murillo. In painting an intelligent portrait, Velazquez is nearly unrivalled; but where he attempts simple nature or sacred subjects he is far inferior to Murillo.' (WilJcie) Principal Works. At the Madrid Gallery, his Lanzas, Meninas, and Borrachos ; besides others in some noblemen's houses at Madrid. Pareja, born 1606; died 1670. A pupil, and first the slave of Velazquez. The ' Call of St. Matthew,' by him, is at the Picture Gallery, Madrid. J. Bautistadel Mazo, bom at Madrid 1630 ; died 1687 ; Velazquez's son-in-law, and his most successful pupil. His works may be seen at Madrid and the Escorial. Mateo Gerezo, born at Burgos 1635 ; died 1675. A pupil of Carreno. Celebrated for his numerous pictures of the Immaculate Conception. VaUadolid, Madrid (Chapel of Atocha). J. Carreno, born at Avile's 1614 ; died 1685. Pupil of Las Cuevas. Worked at the Escorial and Royal Palace of Madrid. Claudio Coello, died at Madrid 1693. A pupil of Rizzi and Carreno. His masterpiece is ( La Santa Forma,' at the Escorial. His genius was crippled by the prevalent bad taste of his times. Rizi (Francisco), born at Madrid 1608 ; died 1685. Pupil of Vin- cenzio Carducho. The Eicci, Carducci, Cajeci (Caje's), etc., were all of Italian descent, and their works are of no great merit. Palomino, born at Bugalance 1653 ; died 1726. A pupil of Valdes Leal, but worked almost exclusively in Castile, Madrid, and Salamanca. Painted the cupola of sacristy of La Cartuja at Granada. More cele- brated for his literary than artistic works. He was the author of f El Museo Pictorico/ etc. Menendez (M. Jacinto), born at Oviedo 1679 ; died 1752. Studied in Italy, and was especially a miniature-painter. Luis Menendez, the son and pupil of the former, and his younger brother, Francisco Antonio, were also painters. Luis, born 1716; died 1780. There are thirty-eight paintings by him at the Madrid Picture Gallery. Goya. Painted a great deal at Madrid. Born 1746 ; died 1828. One of the few really original Spanish painters who struck out a new 1XXX GENERAL INFORMATION. path. Great imagination. ' Skilled as well in the management of colour and brush as in that of the burin, aquafortis, and the lithographic stone ; his effects in scenes of common life are inimitable for their surprising truth and force/ Respecting this master see Friarte's ' (Euvre de Goya/ There are, besides the above, several so-called Escuelas, as, for example, that of Aragon, whose chief artists were R. Torrente (died 1323) ; Guillen Fort, his pupil ; Bonant de Ortiza (1437) ; Pedro de Aponte (1479), who studied in Italy under Ghirlandajo ; F. Pelegret, who studied with P. Caravaggio ; Domin Forrnent, the Cellini of Aragon ; A. Golcovan (1588); Geronimo de Mora (1587) ; Ximenes (died 1666). Then, in the 18th century, the more inferior Artiga, Piano, Rabiella, Almor, Casanova, etc., ending with Martinez, Bayeu, and Goya, the best of whom belong more properly to the Madrid school, if there was any at that time. In Cataluna, the Viladomat, Baylon, Perramon, Cesilles, etc., have been said by native critics to constitute a school ; but the fact is, that what is generally understood by that name hardly applies even to the group of painters that flourished at Seville, Toledo, Valencia, and Madrid. Books of Reference. Mr. Stirling's ' Annals of Spanish Painters,' is the most important and accurate historical work upon Spanish painters. It has been translated into Spanish, with notes, by Maldonado Macanaz. It is based on Cean Bermudez's 'Diccionario.' Captain Cooke Widdrington's ' Spain in 1843,' contains some useful infor- mation. * Les Musees d'Espagne,' by L. Viardot (Paris, 1860, 3d ed.), was the first work that called the attention of foreign cognoscenti to Spanish pictures. The substance is based on Palomino and Cean Bermudez. The appreciations are considered most trustworthy, and we have transcribed many of them almost entirely. * Handbook of Painting' by Sir Ed. Head, vol. ii., containing the Spanish and French schools; London, Murray, 1854. Most reliable for information, and with an account of the Spanish pictures out of Spain. Passavant's 'Die Christliche Kunst in Spanien,' 1853 ; Leipzig. R. Cumberland's * Anecdotes of Eminent Spanish Painters,' 2 vols. I2mo ; London, 1782. (Contains a catalogue of the pictures of the King of Spain in 1787.) A. Palomino, ' Museo Pictorico y Escala Optica,' 3 vols. fol. ; Madrid, 1795-6-7. (An abridged edition published in London in 1744.) Somewhat inaccurate, but useful. F. Pacheco, ' El Arte de la Pintura, su Antigiiedad y Grandezas ; ' Seville, 1649. Very scarce, and of great importance for the history of Spanish paint- ing. The substance of much has passed into other works. He wrote a MS. ' Descripcion de Retratos Autenticos,' etc. a series of biographical sketches of the painters and literati who frequented his studio. The original MS. has been lost; a copy is, we believe, in the hands of the Sevillian poet, Sefior D. I. Maria Bueno. Felipe de Guevara, ' Comentarios de la Pintura' (published by Ponz). Madrid, 1788. SCULPTURE Ixxxi Cean Bermudez, ' Diccionario Historico de los mas ilustres Profesores de las Bellas Artes en Espana,' 6 vols. I2mo ; Madrid, 1800. This work is now being supplemented by a series of papers by the Conde de Vinaza in the Revista de Ciencias Histdricas, Barcelona, 1888. Consult, also, Madrazo's Catalogue of the Madrid Museo (two vols.), and, for the Aragonese school, Minano's * Diccionario Geografico,' which contains a paper on it by Cean Bermudez. Sculpture. SPANISH sculpture has been overlooked by most tourists, but deserves their attention. The Spanish sculptor, until the reign of Charles V., was deprived by law of the study of anatomy, as the Church forbade dissection. The indifference evinced by all towards the Roman remains of art contributed also to paralyse the progress of sculpture. Besides, nudity was supposed to be indecent, and accordingly prohibited, although 6 rien n'habille comme le nu,' r said Yoltaire. Sculpture would, indeed, never have existed had not the notion of bodily representations of the heroes and events of sacred history prevailed, which called it into exist- ence. Painted sculpture, a peculiarity of Spanish art, always prevailed over the simple marble, ghost-like statuary. The statues were to be as like to life as possible, whence they were clothed often with stuffs ; the beards, hair, eyelashes, sometimes were real. They are not thus wanting in effect ; more effective, indeed, in the churches, upon the altars for which they were intended, than the cold, monotonous marble would have been, for they are in keeping here with all the rest around them, the warm rich varied tints of the painted glass, the heavy gilt and painted railings, the many-coloured pavement, the draperies and pictures. These statues and sacred groups once removed from their appointed station must naturally appear, what they really are, out of place ; ' Les hommes,' says La Rochefoucault, ' sont comme les statues, pour les juger il faut des voir en place.' On the altars they should have been left, for that was their place. Spanish sculpture exerted itself principally in the magnificently carved and estofado (gilt) retablos, usually filled up with series of basso-relievo scenes from Scripture, the Virgin's life, or that of the tutelar patron of the lugar ; groups in the Trascoro and Trasaltar, besides single statues of saints with their attributes in the chapels dedi- cated to them. Alto-relievo medallions over doors, statues (never painted) in niches, recumbent or kneeling effigies on tombs, etc., were also objects of the sculptor's chisel that deserve attention. The carved sillerias or stalls in the choirs are among the finest in the world. Sculpture here, as elsewhere, in some degree, has followed the gradations of architecture and painting. In the dark ages art disappeared through the oblivion of classical principles, and during the Byzantine and early Gothic periods sculpture in Spain was rude, symbolical, and conventional. The most brilliant period was the 16th century, when the study of Italian models, and a growing gusto for the Revival, introduced new ideas and created Ixxxii GENERAL INFORMATION. emulation. Towards the end of the 17th century art became bastardised, and followed the precepts of the bad taste prevalent at that period, and in the present day sculpture may be safely said not to exist in Spain. In the 16th century its character was very peculiar, the life-like appear- ance of groups and statues was most startling ; the vigour, breadth, and expression are usually very remarkable ; the composition, especially of groups, freely conceived and generally well carried out ; the execution of details very exquisite, the attitudes theatrical and exaggerated. The general characteristic is action, which the impassioned, fiery Southeners like and understand better than repose, a more difficult and intimately aesthetic sentiment. The greatest sculptors have been Leon Leoni, and his son Pompeyo Leoni, natives of Italy, whose gilt-bronze statues at the Escorial and Valladolid are among the finest of their kind ; Alfonso Berruguete, the Spanish Benvenuto Cellini ; Becerra, who was a great anatomist, and even made the designs for an anatomical work published at Rome. 1554, the text by Dr. J. de Valverde, and executed two anato- mical statues (Cean Bermudez considers him as the first of Spanish sculptors ; his masterpieces are La Virgen de la Soledad, and a grand retablo in the Cathedral of Astorga, etc.) ; the fiery and grandiose Juan de Juni, the Michael Angelo of Spain ; Oregorio Hernandez, whose style is so elevated, graceful, and refined ; Montanes, surnamed the Phidias of Seville, all grace, exquisite delicacy, and tenderness ; Alfonso Cano, his pupil, whose works exhibit much of his master's taste and elegance, com- bined with originality, expression, and excellent careful modelling. Sculpture in Spain was seldom considered otherwise than as an accessory to architecture. It became the tongue of edifices, which the unlettered could read, ' Libri idiotarum,' all symbolical, and whose earlier impotency has been sometimes defined as conventional. The examples are scattered all over Spain, in churches, ruinous convents, noblemen's houses, and some museos ; in that of Valladolid there is the best collec- tion ; and it is in that city and Seville and Toledo that Spanish sculpture has to be principally studied. List of the principal Spanish sculptors, with the period of their death, or that when they flourished : Mateo, el Maestro, 1188 Aleman, Juan, 1460 Dancart, el Maestro, 1495 Florentin, Miguel, 1510 Bartolome*, el Maestro, 1520 Forment, Damian, 1525 Valdelvira, Pedro, 1540 Copin, Diego and Miguel, 1540 Berruguete, Alfonso, 1545 Tordesillas, Caspar, 1545 Machuca, Pedro, 1545 Xamete (Hammed) 1550 Leoni, Leon, 1555 Villapando, Franco, 1561 Siloe, Diego de, 1562 Tudelilla, 1566 Morel, Bart., 1566 Becerra, Caspar, 1566 Ancheta, Miguel de, 1575 Juni, Juan de, 1585 Jordan, Estbau, 1590 Leoni, Pompeyo, 1605 (a Florentine) Hernandez, Gregorio, 1635 Pereyra, Manuel, 1645 Montanes, Juan M. Z., 1645 Cano, Alfonso, 1650 Roldan, Pedro, 1650 Tome", Narciso, and Simon Gavilan Tovnit 1738 PORCELAIN Ixxxiii Terra-cotta we have omitted mentioning, as foreign, in one sense, to our subject. There are, however, several excellent specimens in churches, over portals in cathedrals (Seville), and the spirited, freely-modelled* coloured groups and statuettes of bull-fighting subjects at Malaga. Books of Reference. We know of no Spanish works on iconography. Those of our readers who are curious of deciphering the now dead language expressed by sculpture in the early churches may consult Didron's ' Manuel dTconographie Chretienne,' and the Abbe Crosnier's work on the same subject. A translation of the former, with valuable additions by Miss Stokes, has been published by Bell and Sons, London, 1886. Most of the early sculptors, until perhaps the beginning of the I4th century, were also and especially architects, and belonged to monasteries, where men lost all individuality. Cean Bermudez's * Diccionario ' may be consulted. Porcelain. PORCELAIN amateurs cannot look upon Spain without interest, as it has contributed a generous share to the potter's art. Such names as Majolica, Buen Eetiro, and Moorish Azulejos, are sufficient to awaken their sympathies and excite their zeal. The Carthaginian pottery, which principally flourished at Saguntum (now Murviedro, see Valencia), was very celebrated in the time of the Romans, and produced the 'Calices Saguntini' of Martial (xiv. 108), that were of that beautiful jasper-red, which Pliny mentions, in the manufac- ture of which, he adds, 1200 workmen were employed. (Vide Pliny, Hist. Nat., lib. xxxv. c. 12.) Fragments are still found here (beware of the usual impositions prac- tised on credulous travellers), and exhibit great elegance of design, being most Oriental in the outline. The Conde de Lumiare's work, 'Barros Saguntinos,' with prints (Valencia, Orga, 1779, 8vo.), throws some light on the subject ; but the names of the manufacturers, etc., are all un- known, for, alas ! True fame, like porcelain earth, for years must lay Buried and mix'd with elemental clay. HART. We know the Phoenicians excelled in the manufacture of earthenware cups, chalices, the tforqgiov of the Greeks, which, in the middle ages, were all made after the Greek and Koman models. The Romans did not neglect the manufactures of Spanish pottery, but the Mohammedans raised it to a high degree of excellence by the introduction of the general use of tiles of enamelled earthenware, called azulejos, from the Arabic ' Zuleija, zuleich,' a varnished tile. They are of Persian origin (the lazurad blue). We do not think that the early Moors knew them, and there are few vestiges of these tiles in the Mosque of Cordova ; those that exist must have been posterior to the 10th century. In the Mihrab (Mosque of Cordova), the enamelled vitreous mosaics, the finest GENERAL INFORMATION. of their kind in Europe, were a Byzantine produce, the Greek and Arabic Fsefysah, or Sofeysafah. The Alhambra tiles are among the finest in the world. The Moorish buildings at Seville and Toledo were also adorned with this style of decorative pottery. The sun-dried bricks made in Spain, an Arab importation, are called adobe, mud-wall, Gob. The Spaniards learned the art of tile-pottery from the more refined Easterns, and became very proficient. As examples, we may mention the Dados in the Casa de Pilatos at Seville, the Portal de las Monjas de Sta. Paula, the cinquecento azulejos found here and there in the Alcazar of Seville, the azulejo picture in the chapel at this Alcazar, put up by Isabella the Catholic ; the fine azulejo pictures in the principal fa9ade of the Hospital de la Caridad, after designs by Murillo (Seville), at Barce- lona, Convent de la Merced, cinquecento Dados, representing the victories of Jaynie I. of Aragon, portion of exterior of La Seu at Zaragoza, etc. This charming fashion fell off in the 1 7th century, but the manufac- ture of them still continues to prosper in Spain, at Manises, near Valencia, and at Seville, and considerable importation takes place from Morocco. They are used in courts, passages, gardens, bath-rooms. They are seen in butchers' shops, fishmongers' stalls, etc. ; but they deserve all the attention of architects and men of taste. From the progress that porcelain-painting has made, which has great analogy with enamel-paint- ing, the processes used at Limoges, the superior means disposed of now, of making the tiles of almost any size and thinness, they might be in many cases a substitute for cold, meaningless, heavy stone ; superior to frescoes, that do not generally last in the open air, and preferable to bricks ; they adapt themselves to all climates. Ceramic decoration for the exteriors of buildings ought to be developed, and when applied soberly, and with intelligence, will not be found, we think, foreign to dignity and repose. ' Nunca haras casa con azulejos/ shows, however, that this decoration is attended with expense. They are of a pale clay, backed, squeezed into moulds, glazed on the surface with a white opaque enamel, upon which designs are executed in colours. The Moorish tiles were painted ; the Spanish ones are generally stamped. The usual tints of the earliest were blue or brown. The secondary colours, purple, green, and orange, were also used. About the 15th century, whites and yellows were the fashion, and in the beginning of the 1 7th century, yellow, almost exclu- sively. But these tiles were not the only production of Moorish pottery. The jars (jarras) and the water-coolers (alcarazas), all Oriental in shape, were elaborately ornamented. These porous clay drinking-vessels, from Al-Karazah, are of course a Moorish importation, and differ little from the Egyptian lardachs made at Khermeh. The Arabs' early zooleh, which hold and keep the water so well, were the prototypes of the botijo. PORCELAIN. Ixxxv Martial's Trulla (xiv. 106 ; iv. 46), who mentions all the particulars of those made at Saguntum ; they are very like the Cenobic ffrarixd. They were probably introduced by the Phoenicians, and were made in Seville as early as 304 A.D. They are generally placed on tallas, or stands, and kept cool by being covered with linen. The most characteristic are made at Andujar. They are of different colours yellow, brown, and white. Of Moorish ceramic art, the beautiful and celebrated vase at the Alhambra is a good specimen ; it dates about 1320 ; the companion of it was broken, and the fragments carried away by a French lady connois- seur. There is a copy at Sevres. The Hispano- Arabic pottery flourished till the beginning of the 17th century, the period of the final expulsion of the Moors ; its influence has been permanent. To this day all earthen- ware pots and vases are of Moorish form. The cdntaros and botijas of that particular peculiarly-scented bftcaro clay, the Gargantua-like Tinajas, where the wine and oil are kept, the alcarrazas of Valentia, cazuelas, etc., at Elche, are all of Eastern, very early forms. Besides, the Moors' pottery 'is considered to be the prototype of the Italian Majolica. The Hispano-Arabic pottery has been divided into three classes. 1st. Of the transition period between strictly Moorish and Spanish, a yellow ground with lustred-reddish ornaments, flowers, and birds. 2d. Of 13th to 14th century, generally ornamented with shields of Castile, Leon, Aragon, of a uniform golden yellow tone. 3d. 14th to end of 1 5th century, with patterns in coloured enamel, with golden yellow ornaments, escutcheons, foliage, cyphers, sometimes animals. This is thought by Mr. Marryat to be the style copied by Italian artists in the 1 6th century. ' Spain had the priority over Italy in the manufacture of enamelled pottery' (Marryat). The Moorish pottery passed from Valencia to Majorca, whence Majolica, and finally to Pisa and Pesaro. This seems undeniable from all that the highest authorities have stated (Scaliger, Fabio Ferrari, etc.), but no doubt the ground had been well prepared by the Sicilian Saracens (A.D. 827), who decorated the mosque at Palermo. The clay that was used in the manufacture of Majolica ware is found in Majorca at Puigpunent and at Estellenchs. On the succession of the House of Bourbon, French pottery was in- troduced and imitated, and the Granja Porcelain Factory, an appendage to the Fabrica de Cristales, was established in 1688 by the French Thevart, and enlarged by Charles III. But a more important one was established by this latter sovereign at Madrid, in the Gardens del Buen Retiro, about 1759. The models and workmen came from the Nea- politan manufactory of Capo di Monte. The influence of the Sevres, of which specimens were sent constantly as presents to the Spanish court, was felt in the workmanship of the new Spanish porcelain. The build- ings were destroyed during the French occupation. It is like Capo di Monte ware. Groups of figures, mostly mythological subjects, were also GENERAL INFORMATION. made. The marks are : a fleur-de-lys, either in blue or stamped in relief, and the monogram of Charles III. The china cabinet in the Queen of Spain's palace at Aranjuez is certainly one of the best examples of the tasteful and the rare application of porcelain to the decoration of rooms. All the walls, ceilings, doors, are fitted up with high relievo Buen Retire ware. The effect is admirable. The china-manufacture established at La Moncloa by Ferdinand VII., notwithstanding Senor Sureda's efforts, no longer exists. Consult Ch. Davillier's excellent work on the subject, besides Marryat's ' History of Porcelain and Pottery/ London, 1857, which has been recently translated into French, with valuable notes ; Jacquemart's Researches, etc. Music. ' DANCING/ says Mr. Ticknor, ' has been to Spain what music has been to Italy a passion with the whole population.' Spanish national music is, therefore, strictly musique dansante, composed to accompany dances, entremeses, roystering ballads, whence called danzas habladas, bayles entremesados. Most of the Spanish musical instruments have an Eastern derivation, the rabel, zambomba, pandereta, guitarra, and gaita. Musical instruments, peculiar to some provinces, may be earlier still than the former, such as the gaita in Asturias, and the tamboril of the Basque. The emphatic instrument is the guitar, the x/0aa of the Greeks, and kinoor common to all the East. The words mean little or nothing. The character of this Eastern music may be studied in Alfarabi's ' Elements of Music/ in the Escorial Library (Casiri 1, 34). It contains, besides the principles of the art, the forms of the Arabic musical notes, and prints of thirty different instruments ; there is also an interesting collection of the lives of celebrated Spanish singers, both male and female, and of early Spanish airs. The Archives of the Cathedrals of Toledo and Seville contain also curious and numerous collections of church music, mostly plain-chant. In the Colombine Library, Seville, see also Gaspar de Aguilar's c Arte de Principios de Canto Ellano en Espanol.' With the exception of a few good composers of sacred music, there is little here that will interest the music- collector. We might mention several collections of Villancicos, sung in churches at Christmas time, as early as the 1 5th century, the words of which teem with piety : See, for example, 'Villancicos y Coplas curiosas/ by Francisco de Avila, Alcala, 1606, one of which begins O que bien que baila Gil Viendo al nino entre las pajas ! The Moors had different moods or harmonic phrases which they called roots (oussoiil); that called doughiah was applied to sorrowful subjects to which the Spanish canas (gaunia of the Moors, a song) belongs, which FESTIVALS Ixxxvii terminates with an Ay ! Ishac expressed love, and its malas partidas. They are said to have derived this system from the Persians. There was little variety, and really, as they themselves defined it, their music was 4 Ilm el edwar/ the science of cercles. La Borde's ' Essai sur la Musique Ancienne et Moderne/ vol. i. pp. 177-182 ; and Villoteau's ' Essai sur la Musique des Arabes 'in his work on Egypt, will give further particulars. Zarzuelas, or Operas Comiques, have been recently introduced in the Spanish theatre, and meet with favour. The operas are mostly imita- tions from Verdi, Auber, etc., and of little value. The old airs are full of character (gratia y sal). A. poetical vein which runs throughout renders them very attractive. To appear in all their glory, they must be heard in Andalusia on a summer's evening. There are also political airs of great effect, such as the ' Himno de Kiego,' and the wild Basque * Ay, Ay, Ay, mutila chapelligorriya ! ' In many churches the Gregorian or plain-chant is still in practice, but the present execution is far from giving the exact impression of the grand effect that this kind of music can produce. For the popular Spanish songs, with music, see c Poesias Populares ' colegidas por D. Tomas Segarra (Brockhaus, Leipzig, 1862). The Coplas, Seguidillas, etc., have been well collected by F. K. Marin, in ' Cantos populares Espanolas,' 5 vols., Seville, 1884. The Andalucian Gipsy songs are to be found in the 'Coleccion de Cantos Flamencos/ by Demofilo (Machado y Alvarez). A good collection of Spanish coplas, etc., with originals and French translations, is the ' Chants Populaires Espagnols/ by A. Fouquier (Paris, 1882). On early Spanish and Visi- gothic music a good work has been published in the 'Critical and Bibliographical Notes on Early Spanish Music/ by J. F. Riano (Quaritch, London, 1887). Festivals. IN Spain, the dias de fiesta are almost exclusively of a religious character. Besides the great fiestas de precepto, instituted by the Santa Madre Iglesia to gladden the heart and amuse her children, there are dias de santos fixed upon in honour of some saint, and varying according to his or her nationality. Several saints, mostly Spanish, have been made patrons and tntelars, patronos of cities, of which several were natives, hijos viz. San Isidro, that of Madrid ; at Seville, Stas. Justa y Eufina ; at Valencia, San Vicente Ferrer, etc. The smallest village, the most out-of-the-way, insignificant hamlet, has its particular saint. These festivities take place everywhere on the grandest scale that the means of the place can afford. The Church, all powerful and wealthy, exacted sacrifices from the pious or the superstitious ; and thus its great festivities, especially in Italy and Spain, are remarkable for the wondrous display of pageants over which the sovereign presides, and in which the humblest Ixxxviii GENERAL INFORMATION. subject joins. Functions in the churches, processions through the streets, decked with flowers and shaded by awnings, all served to bring religion before the eyes, if not to the hearts, of the people. The painter, the sculptor, the poet even contributed to augment the effect of funciones. Trade profited largely by them. Great periodical gatherings from distant points brought men who could have some sort of interchange of ideas, etc., together. Pilgrimages to celebrated shrines have been to this day great favourites with relic-loving Spaniards. The most fashionable shrines in the middle ages were Jerusalem, Eome, Loretto, and Santiago de Com- postella. The last, from the 12th to 14th century, was the resort of kings, heroes, and the pious rabble. In the ' Fabliaux,' it is called < Le Pelerinage d'Asturies,' and is Froissart's ' Pelerinage du Baron St. Jacques/ el Santo Varon. The reputed death-place of St. James the Apostle is not yet without attractions to the devout both in Spain and abroad, and pilgrims flock thither in considerable numbers in the month of July. We shall briefly describe the most noteworthy festivities in the year, both religious and civil. January. The Jour-de-1'An is not as important here as it is in France, Christmas being the great public festivity. On the 5th, eve of Twelfth-day, Dia de Eeyes (Jour des Eois), according to a very old tradition, groups of urchins and vagabonds go about the streets and to the gates of cities, escorting gallegos and other simples, who are, or pre- tend to be, persuaded that the Magi are coming, to receive whom they carry ladders, torches, and drums. In the middle and upper classes, estrechos and motes are the fashion, and the cake (la torta) is duly eaten ; and the haba (bean) makes kings here, as elsewhere. On the 23d, San Ildefonso, patron of Toledo, at which city great festivities take place. On the 17th, another popular fiesta, Las Vueltas de San Antonio the patron of cattle, horses, and mules. It is more especially a Madri- lenian festivity. On the 23d, Dias or Saints'-day of the Prince of Asturias. Levee at the palace of Madrid, reviews and illuminations. February. Carnival takes place and continues during several days, especially on the 15th ; masks go about the streets, intriguant, as the French say, acquaintances, friends, and enemies, all with good taste and suaviter in modo. Balls in the theatres. Miercoles de Ceniza (Ash Wednesday) closes the gaieties. On the 12th, Santa Eulalia, Tutelar of Barcelona. Great festivities in that city. On the 23d, Santa Marta, Tutelar of Astorga. Interesting to artists for holiday costumes. March. The Cuaresma (Lent) is religiously observed. Sermons in the churches ; sacred music in Madrid and the larger cities. On the 1st, San Hiscio, Tutelar of Tarifa. On the 19th, St. Joseph FESTIVALS. Ixxxix a very general name in Spain. Cards, bonbons, and bouquets, are sent to those whose dia it is ; and an omission is a grave sin in the eyea of the fair sex. On that day, great fiesta at Badajoz. On or about the 22d, Passion Sunday Visit churches (High Mass) ; a sermon in the open air at Seville ; Domingo de Eamos ; Palm Sunday ; High Mass in cathedrals ; blessing of palms, which remain suspended round the balconies during the rest of the year. April. Holy Week is the most interesting period of the Festival Year. The tourist must omit no funcion, as they are all very peculiar, national, and generally impressive. Endeavour to witness them in a large city, especially at Seville ; if not, at Valencia, Toledo, or Madrid. The period begins on Wednesday the 1st, and lasts till Sunday, called de Pascua de Resurrection. On Thursday, Jueves Santo at Madrid, the Lavatorio takes place, in commemoration of Christ washing the disciples' feet. The ceremony takes place at the palace, and after the morning service or oficios. The Queen goes through the unpleasant process of washing the feet of some dozen paupers, who partake afterwards of a royal limosna. In the afternoon, the Queen goes in state to make the round of the churches, visitar las estaciones. On Friday, Viernes Santo, a grand procession takes place through the streets. The best is at Seville, where it is * irreverently but not inappropriately' called ' El Carnaval Divino.' The great peculiarity of the procession consists in the * Pasos/ or groups of sculptured effigies, painted, and often dressed up, intending to represent the different passages of the Passion of Christ, and borne on men's shoulders. These ' Pasos' are the property of religious associations, Cofradias (cum frater), several of them still very wealthy, which sprang up about the 14th century. These ' Pasos,' many of great intrinsic value as works of art, began to be introduced in processions in the early portion of the 17th century. They were originally borne on the shoulders of penitents (nazarenos). Their dress long, white, or black robes, with high pointed caps, and faces covered is still worn in remembrance of them names surviving things. The Cofradias vie with each other in producing the greatest effect at these processions. The principal Cofradia at Seville is that of ' El Santo Entierro,' of which the Sovereign is Her- mano Mayor, and its Paso is the finest. It dates from the conquest of Seville by St. Ferdinand. Visit the ' Monumento ' in the churches a gigantic temple of painted wood-work, often that of great artists, upon which the Host is placed for the Mass on Good Friday. Attend, also, to the ' Miserere,' sung after dark in the churches. At Valencia it ia particularly impressive. The Holy Week functions are believed to be superior in pomp and interest at Seville to those at Eome. About the middle of the month the animated ( Feria' (fair) takes place at Seville, outside the Puerta de San Fernando. It should not bf XC GENERAL INFORMATION. overlooked by artists, and is most peculiar and national. On the 5th, San Vicente, Tutelar of Valencia great festivities there. Nay. At Madrid, the political fete del Dos de Mayo, and on the 15th San Isidro, Tutelar of the metropolis ; a Romeria takes place outside the town. 20th. Grand Fiesta at Honda. June. The verbenas, veladas (wakes or virgils), of San Juan ; on the 24th, of San Antonio de Padua ; 14th, at Madrid. 1 8th. San Ciriaco and Santa Paula, Tutelars of Malaga. El Dia del Corpus, Corpus Christi Day (La Fete-Dieu), generally takes place the first Thursday after Trinity Sunday. It is celebrated with great pomp in all capitals. The middle and lower classes prepare their best and new toilettes for that day. Streets are covered with awnings. Flowers or fine gravel soften the hard pavement for tiny feet to move slowly about, and processions take place. July. On the 25th, Santiago, Patron of Spain. Tourists in the North should endeavour to be at Santiago on that day, or on the 2d at Coruna. August On the 6th, Fiesta at Oviedo and Avila ; on the 15th, La Ascension, the Blessed Virgin's Day Church functions High Mass at cathedrals. On the 20th, Fiestas of St. Greiras and San Eoque, near Gibraltar. September. The Feria at Madrid begins on the 21st and lasts a fortnight. It is scarcely worth while mentioning it, and is falling off every year. October. 5th. San Froilan, Tutelar of Leon. 9th. Fiesta at Jerez. November. On the 1st and 2cl the cemeteries are visited, the tombs are decorated with funeral wreaths. December. 6th. Fiesta at Alicante. The last week, Fiestas de Navidad, Christmas. Christmas Eve, La Noche Buena, is more import- ant than Christmas-day. The churches are profusely lighted up. Music of all descriptions fills the air. Great slaughter of 'pavos' (turkeys) takes place, and there begins an universal gargantuism of popular merri- ment, bonfires, etc. ; pastrycook-shops are decked out with ribbons, flowers, and literally burst with mazapanes, jaleas, and turron j the mar- ket-places exhibit pyramids of oranges, melons the ' Nacimientos/ or pasteboard representations of the Nativity, with terra-cotta figures, COSTUMES NATIONAL DRESS. XC1 eagerly purchased by children, and lighted up in every house, rich or poor. Suppers take place that night, and at midnight mass, la M-isa del Gallo. Besides the above, there are very curious and early customs still in fashion in many out-of-the-way cities and shrines. Most were established in honour of the Virgin Santisima, whose name changes according to the different attributes of her intercession, such as Nuestra Senora del Pilar, de la 0., del Buen Viege, La Blanca, del Buen Consejo, de las Nieves, de la Merced, del Milagro, del Amparo, de la Correa, del Remedio, de la Paz, etc. etc., in all upwards of thirty. The principal Pilgrimages are to Montserrat, Santiago de Compostella and S. N. del Pilar, at Zaragoza. Our readers will find the following an interesting book upon such matters : * Kelaciones de Solemnidades y Fiestas Publicas de Espana,' by Don Go. Alenda ; Mad. 1866. It has deserved the ' premio ' awarded by the Biblioteca Nacional. Costumes Wational Dress. THE lower classes still retain their picturesque national dress. The upper orders have adopted the prosaic chimney-top hat, sombrero de copa, and other such-like abominations in the artist's eye. Ladies, alas ! are also fast divesting themselves of the graceful veil, the lace mantilla, which become their especial cast of beauty ; and the provincials alone have been preserved from the invasion of bonnets and mantelets. Each province has a peculiar dress, the populations of the south and south-east approaching more to the original type, the Moorish dress those of the eastern coast wearing the head-gear of their Phrygian fathers, etc. The mantilla is worn especially in the morning to go to mass and shopping d, tiendas. The white fine blond or lace one is now seldom used, and only at the bull-fight and Dia de Corpus; the one more usually put on is made of black lace, or of raso, satin, or silk the latest fashion has introduced the antiquated manto, which is a mantilla with a silken casco, and a lace or blond veil that just covers the face ; cocas, or the coiffure a I'lmpe'ratrice is adopted, to which tiny side-curls are added, called picardias, caracoles de amor, etc., with a stripe or two of black velvet, to which a fringe (fleco) of passementerie, with jet beads, is sometimes added The best places to purchase one are at Madrid, Margarit and Fabrica de Almagro, and at Seville and Barcelona. The prices vary from 50 Or. to 3000 and 4000r. ; but a good one maybe had for 1200r. Large pins on the sides fasten it to the hair. We may be permitted to advise our fair readers not to adopt it, unless they wish to be stared at, for, how- ever gracefully they will put it on and wear it, the aquel, ce je ne sais quoi, is sure to be wanting and cause more attention than admiration. Xcil GENERAL INFORMATION. It is almost exclusively the headgear worn in churches. Travellers wh - possess sufficient reliable knowledge of the article, together with the faculty of bargaining, should search diligently in the larger towns for second-hand laces. In the male costume, the capa (cloak) is still very much used ; but without a cape or esclavina ; the quietest colours are worn by gentlemen invisible green, brown, black, with a black or green velvet lining, forro and vueltas. The usual price is 20 to 30 dollars. We likewise advise our male readers to abstain appearing in it. It is a whole science to know how to embozarze in the folds, there being at least seventeen different ways. There is some difficulty in finding prints, coloured or otherwise, of Spanish costumes. An album des costumes espagnols (one separately for army uni- forms) may be purchased in Paris and Bayonne, and is reliable. Fans are worn as much as ever, and are used not only for protection from the heat, but as a formidable instrument of coquetry. The Louis XIV. and Louis XV. fans, gems of miniature and workmanship, are very rarely met with in Spain, most of the best having been sold to foreign amateurs, and the rest being heirlooms. The more common fan (abanico), with Spanish subjects, roughly painted, but quaint and full of couleur locale, may be purchased at Madrid, Colombia, Calle del Carmen, and at Seville and Barcelona. Bull-fights, and the recent African campaign, furnish the subjects. Fans with figures, landscapes, etc., are called abanicos apaisados ; the handle is called el puno. Fans are of all sizes, prices, and materials. Sandal-wood, studded with inlaid steel arabesques, are in great request. Ivory and bone fans from China, de Filipinos, are to be purchased reasonably in Madrid, Barcelona, etc. There is also a huge, umbrella-sized, circular, 1-real fan, which is exclusively used at the bull-fight. Prices of fans vary from 3 to 50 pesetas. Spanish garters, ligas, are very quaint, with mottoes replete with gal- lantry and ' Honi soit qui lien y pense,' Andalucian gratia. Dances. SAVE on the stage, or in a provincial fiesta, the baile national has well- nigh disappeared, and even there it no longer is the racy cosa de Espana which it formerly was. With the upper classes, the dances are of course those in fashion in the salons of Paris, London, and Vienna. The traveller may chance here and there to meet with a romeria, merienda, or picnic party, in the suburbs of cities, where the bolero and fandango are still danced, but minus the sparkling gold lace and silver filigree costume and motley say a. Spanish dancers were celebrated in all times, especially the Cadiz dancing-girls, whose grace and laissez oiler delighted the Eoman voluptuaries, and have been sung by Martial (B. 3, Ep. 63, v. 79 ; vi. 71), DANCES. xciii by Juvenal (S. 2, v. 162) ; Strabo, etc. The dances differ in each pro- vince. The danza prima is peculiar to Asturias ; the jota Aragonesa, to Aragon ; the muneira, to Gallicia ; las habas verdes, to Leon, etc. ; but Andalucia is the land of the jaleo de Jerez the cachucha of Cadiz, rondenas of Ronda. Dancing was always a national amusement in Spain ; and figures belonging to very early dances of a religious and heroic character may still be seen in several parts of the country. They were mostly, what they now are, graceful and voluptuous, as the weakening effect of the sun on limbs predisposes the body to be pliant and elastic. They are gener- ally gay, especially in the South ; and the fandango and cachucha date from times prior to the Romans the castagnettes (castanuelas) being mentioned by Juvenal, who calls the clicking of them 'Tertarum crepitus.' The Pyrrhic, or sword-dance, was an Iberian and Celtic amusement, and is now sometimes performed in the Basque Provinces. In the North, men, almost exclusively, were the performers ; whilst in the South, dancing was a woman's department, as it is still in the East. As now happens, there were few plays that ended without the lalle national : Al fin, con un baylezito, Iba la gente contenta. ROXAS, Viage, 1614. Dances, composed expressly for the occasion, besides the usual ones, formed part of the earliest performances of the Spanish theatre ; and as an actor says in one of Lope de Vega's plays (' La Gran Sultana' ) There ne'er was born a Spanish woman yet, But she was born to dance. Persons of all ages and ranks shared in the fashion ; and just as Cardinal Richelieu used to dance the Sarabande to captivate the fair Anne d'Autriche, so also the Duke of Lerma, being premier to Philip IV., was reckoned the best dancer of his day. The dances of the 17th cen- tury, laying aside the grave courtly minuet and subsequent gavotte, retained so much of the Cancan style introduced in the South by the Gaditan Rigolboches, that Guevara declares that the devil invented them all, which Cervantes admits, especially of the Zarabanda (probably an Almee Moorish dance); and in 1621 government endeavoured to put them down, and well nigh succeeded. The Zarabanda began to be known in 1 588 at Seville, and was, says Mariana, invented by a devil in woman's shape. The gipsies' dance has retained part of the freedom of those times, and must not be omitted by amateurs. It is a most graceful dislocation of the human body. Readers who may feel disposed to know more on the subject of Spanish XC1V GENERAL INFORMATION. dances are referred to the following works : * Donayres de Tersicore,' by Deza y Avila ; 1663. ' Gifford's Notes' in vol. ii. p. 159 ol ' Juvenal's Satires ;' Philadelphia, 1803. Rupere's Notes on the same passage in Juvenal ; Lipsise, 1801 ; 8vo. S. xi. 'Pellicer's Origen/ etc.; vol. i. in the ( Diablo Cojuelo/ Tranco L, etc. ' Filosoffa Antigua Poetica/ by Pinciano ; 1596. The Theatre. THE Spanish theatre in many of its attributes and characteristics stands by itself. It takes no cognisance of ancient example, for the spirit of antiquity could have little in common with materials so modern, Christian, and romantic. It borrowed nothing from the drama of France or of Italy, for it was in advance of both when its final character was not only de- veloped but settled. And as for England, though Shakspeare and Lope were contemporaries, and there are points of resemblance between them, which it is pleasant to trace and difficult to explain, still they and their schools, undoubtedly, had not the least influence on each other. The Spanish drama is, therefore, entirely national. Many of its best subjects are taken from the chronicles and traditions familiar to the audience that listened to them, and its prevalent versification reminded the hearers, by its sweetness and power, of what had so often moved their hearts in the earliest outpourings of the national genius. With all its faults, this old Spanish drama, founded on the great traits of the national character, maintained itself in the popular favour as long as that character existed in its original attributes; and even now it remains one of the most striking and one of the most interesting portions of modern literature. (Ticknor's ' History of Spanish Literature,' vol. ii. chap, xxvi.) The drama is the mirror of a nation's character, and the best handbook to the manners and customs of a period is the lecture of its dramatic literature at that time. As over all manifestations of the popular mind, so over the spirit of the drama, the Church stood sentinel, watched its progress with jealousy, and, unable to confine it within the narrow religious channel, declared open war against it, visiting those who attended representations with excommunication, denying Christian burial to actors (the first time by 67th canon of the Illiberian Council), not allowing them to marry, etc., a reminiscence of the Roman contempt for histrions. The earliest form of the drama was therefore the religious representations of scriptural events the Mysteries (misterios), which were in fashion till the time of Philip II. The theatres were closed oftentimes for years through ecclesi- astical influence, and then re-opened by the caprice of an amateur monarch, or the impulse of the growing popularity that they were daily obtaining. The religious dramas, many of them very gross and licentious, were also acted in nunneries and monasteries. The real founder of the Spanish THE THEATRE. XCV drama was Lope de Rueda (1544-67), who boldly abandoned all remini- scences of the mysteries and struck out a new path. The theatrical resourses were those of the most meagre character. A manager's whole apparatus was, according to Cervantes, contained in a large sack. The theatre consisted of four benches arranged in a square, with boards laid across them, and raised a little from the ground. The furniture was an old blanket, drawn aside by two cords. Behind it stood the musicians, ' who sang old ballads without a guitar.* A public square was the site chosen for the temporary erection of the theatre. The audiences were collected around ; the performance took place by daylight ; and the plays themselves were colloquies, with little or no action, but divided into several scenes, written with spirit, humour, and so as to display the salt (sal) of the gracioso, or simples as they were first called, on whose perfor- mance the success mainly depended. Cervantes and Lope de Vega raised the drama to a higher sphere and placed it in a wider range ; but the implacable Church compelling him to relinquish secular plays, he had resort to the Comedias de Santos, from subjects found in their lives, and Autos Sacramentales (a forensic term from actus, a decree) or sacramental acts ; these religious plays used to be performed in the streets and squares on great church holidays ; Lope de Vega wrote 400 of them. The period when Madrid became the real metropolis of the kingdom, about 1560, the drama commenced a career of progress and prosperity ; playhouses were established under the patronage of the nobility, and Lope de Vega's genius gave life to them. To his school belong some of the greatest dramatic writers that Spain has possessed, such as Tirso de Molina (' Burlador de Sevilla,' ' Vergonzoso en Palacio/ etc.) ; Guillen de Castro (' Mocedades del Cid/ imitated by Corneille, f Le Cid ') ; Guevara (' Mas pesa el Key que la Sangre ') ; Montalvan (' Orfeo,' ' Amantes de Teruel,' and ' Don Carlos ') ; Alarcon (' Texedor de Segovia,' * Verdad Sospechosa'), etc. Calderon de la Barca was, with Lope, the great luminary of the Spanish drama, and the most national of its writers. Besides Autos Sacramentales (' Devocion de la Cruz/ and others), he wrote ' Capa y Espada ' comedies and purely heroic ones (' Amar despues de la Muerte/ * El Medico de su Honra/ ' El Mayor Monstruo, los Zelos/ etc.) The Spanish drama reached the acme of its prosperity in the reign of Philip IV., from 1621 to 1665. The glorious sun thus rose from among the mediaeval darkness of the misterios, expanding gradually, until it set magnificently towards the death of Calderon, when decay began. But even then we have such men as Moreto ('Desden con el Desden'), Roxas (' Del Key abaxo ninguno/ etc.), besides a host of minor ingenios, conspicuous only like the stars, whose light shines the more when the sun has set. In the beginning of the 1 8th century, just as the French had previously imitated the Spanish drama, the Spaniards now strove to adopt the style XCV1 GENERAL INFORMATION. of the French plays. Corneille's ' Cinna ' was translated, 1713 ; Racine's 'Athalie'in 1747, etc. Of this period we may mention Moratin the elder (' Guzman el Bueno '), Cadahalso (' Sancho Garcia '), Iriarte (' The Ill-bred Miss,' etc.), Moratin the younger, one of the most successful comic writers (' Si de Las Ninas,' ' El Cafe '). In the present day the drama has fallen very low, and the plays are mostly French translations. The melo- drama finds favour with the lower classes ; and the zarzuelas, or operas comiques, are preferred to plays of the old school. "We must except some original arid national authors, whose productions we recommend to the playgoer, however much he may feel ' new ' to their peculiar character and effect viz. the Duke of Rivas, whose e Fuerza del Sino ' has become Verdi's libretto of the opera ' La Forza del Destine ;' Garcia Gutierrez, whose stirring ' Trovador ' is another of Verdi's triumphs ; Rodriguez Rubi (' La Rueda de la Fortuna ') ; Ventura de la Vega (' Hombre de Mundo ') ; Jose Zorilla (' D. Juan Tenorio ') ; Luis Eguilaz (' Verdades Amargas ') ; Hartzembush (' Amantes de Teruel ') ; Echegaray ; Tamayo y Baus ; Nunez de Arce, etc. i The vein of enthusiasm that runs through Spaniards, their love of romance and the marvellous, their natural quickness of apprehension and sense of the ridiculous, their childish delight in tinsel and effect, all fit them to succeed in the drama. The play-houses themselves naturally shared the fate of the drama. But they have never reached in Spain, to this day, the space, commodity, and the display of mechanical means employed to enhance the scenic effect. It is true that to resort to the latter was deemed contemptible, find the plays requiring them were called ' comedias de ruido,' pieces d machines. Madame D'Aulny, who was in Spain in 1679-80, mentions in her amusing letters a sun made of oiled paper, actors quietly climbing ladders, placed in view of the spectators, to reach the stage. The site of the theatre was a court-yard, patio, or corral ; in front of the stage were benches for those who bought single tickets ; the crowd stood in the open air and paid three maravedis. Here stood the noisiest and disorderly part of the audience, called ' mosqueteros ' (moscon, a large fly), from the constant buzzing, on whose approbation the success of new plays always depended (Alcazar, Ortographia Castellana, Pellicer, Origen, etc). Behind were the gradas, ' grees,' or rising seats, for the men ; and the cazuela, literally ' stew-pan,' exclusively used by the women of the lower orders, and which we have seen not many years ago at the Teatro de la Cruz, Madrid, in all its glory. Above were the desvanes and aposentos that is, balconies and rooms, our modern boxes, still called in Spain the first and second floors, the rez-de-chaussee. The lower ones were generally railed, as all ground-floor windows are in Spain, rejas, whence the present French logos grilles and vapour bath, baignoires. These rooms, belong- ing to houses placed round three sides of the court-yard, were filled by the Court, and held as an heirloom from generation to generation as it BULL-FIGHTS. XCvii still happens at Barcelona. The audiences were noisy the hissing and * victors ! ' were signs of discontent or applause ; rattles, bells, and crackers, often augmenting the expression of the former. The first play- bill was put up at Granada in 1600. The performances took place by daylight, and consisted of a loa, or prologue, followed by the first jornado, or act of the principal comedy or drama ; entremeses came after, amusing, light ' levers de rideau ; ' the second act of the comedy ensued, and was followed by another entremes, music, and dancing ; and the finale was usually a saynete or farce, in which Spanish actors always excelled Last of all, as even is now often the case, a balle national terminated the fiesta, and was a Jin de funcion. Besides the splendid Buen Retiro play- houses and floating theatres, the most celebrated have existed till very lately, such as the Corrales de la Cruz and Del Principe, which were erected at the request of Isabel Farnese, in 1743, 1745. The actors of early times were admirable interpreters of the genius of Lope and Cal- deron, and the names of Figueroa, Pinedo, Prado, are associated with their greatest success ; Barbara Coronel, Maria de Cordova, Baltasara, and, more latterly, Maiquez, Queral, la Rita Luna, la Llorente, Rodri- guez, and the gracioso Guzman. Books of Reference. The best critiques on the Spanish theatre have issued from Germany. Garcia's, Pellicer's, Martinez de la Rosa's, Moratin's (L.) origins of the Spanish theatre may be looked to for general information. See also 'Tesoro del Teatro Espanol,' 5 vols. (Baudry's Coll.), and ' Autores Dramaticos Contemporaneos,' by D. Pedro de Novo y Colson, 2 vols. fol. ; Madrid, 1887. Bull-fights. THIS is the national fiesta of Spain, at which the low^er classes are seen in all their character, as the English are at the Derby. "We shall leave aside all reflections on the cruelty, bad example, bloodshed, of this spectacle, and allow our readers to judge for themselves. We shall only remark that bull-fights are still the fashion, that they have lost few of their former characteristics, and that tourists should not fail to see one at least. The best bull-fights corridas de toros take place at Seville, the great centre of Tauromachia, and at Madrid. The ' season ' begins the first Sunday after Lent, a ' funcion ' taking place on every Sunday i si el tiempo lo permite.' There is a pause during the height of summer, and a second season begins again from the end of August to the early part of October. Each corrida costs upwards of 400 at Madrid and Seville, and not much less in the minor cities. The bull-fighters are divided into four classes espadas (swords, rapiers), those who kill the bulls with a sword ; they are the < maestros ' of the art, men of great daring, a quick eye, firm wrist, and presence of mind ; they rise from 9 XCVlll GENERAL INFORMATION. the lower class, without passing by that of picadores, and follow the especial rules laid down by some great master, or found a new school themselves. ' Aficionados ' (amateurs), alone can see the differences be- tween the suertes. The most celebrated maestros have been Monies, Romero, Cdndido, Pepe Illo, El Chidanero. The present ones are paid from 5000r. to 6000r. for each corrida, and there are always two at each funcion, besides a ' sobresaliente,' in case of accidents. The second class, the Bander illeros, from banderilla, a small flag, or barbed dart, are paid 100 Or. to 1500r. each corrida. They require swiftness of foot and great dexterity. The third class are the Picadores, from pica, a lance. They receive 2000r. They ride jaded Eosinante-hacks, in lieu of the noble steeds of yore, and scarcely defend them against the i embestida ' of the bull. They are rather looked down upon, as a set of drunkards and ' holgazanes.' The < Chulos ' and ' Capas ' form the fourth class. They are picked men, as their business requires great activity ' ojo y condi- cion.' They are paid from $15 to $20 (300r. to 400r.) The spectacle is a drama in three acts. First, after a shrill trumpet has announced the beginning, the Toril door is opened, and the wretched beast rushes into the arena, decorated with the bright-ribboned mona. The picadores advance, each in turn, and attack, or rather receive the bull's attack. After a few varas have been split, and several tumbles duly taken place, the banderillos, at the sound of another trumpet, come in for their share, and dart their arrows about the bull's gory neck. Sometimes, when the bicko is phlegmatic, these darts are provided with crackers, which ex- plode on their being affixed, and madden the animal. A few minutes after, at the sound of a trumpet, the Espada is seen advancing towards the bull, after having pronounced a speech before the Auloridad presid- ing over the plaza, in which he asks, pro formd, permission to kill the foe, and offers to perform the suerte in a way that shall do honour to ' El pueblo de Madrid, or el Senorio.' On his left hand he holds the muleta, a small staff with a deep red flag that serves as a lure, and in his right a good Toledan blade. This is the stirring scene the duel, the denouement. After the bull's death, the cachetero sits on the prostrate foe, and removes all doubts by darting a small sharp-pointed dagger, el cachete into the animal's spine. A team of mules, gaily attired, drag away the foredoomed vencido (vse victis !) to the mulador or dung-heap, where the flesh is sold. From an economical point of view, bull-fights may by some be regarded as detrimental ; but, after all, the greater the consumption the greater the benefit to the producers. Something like 2400 bulls are killed annually, and 3500 horses. The money value of these animals will amount perhaps to 1,800,000 pesetas. About 450 corridas take place annually, and the tickets sold amount to about 3,000,000 pesetas. The different ways of killing a bull, and of placing banderillas, are called suertes. A whole especial vocabulary is in constant use, and may be soon acquired. The best works are : SPORT. xcix 6 Tauroinaquia Complete/ by Franco Monies ; Madrid, 1836. * Carta historica sobre el Origen y Progresos de las Fiestas de Toros, by N. F. de Moratin ; Madrid, 1777. * Tauromaquia, 6 Arte de Torear ; Madrid, 1804, por un aficionado. Excellent Goya's caricatures on the subject are first-rate, as he was most con- versant with the matter, and patronised by the great aficionado,, Duchess de Alba. Alcocer's 'Tratado del Fuego, etc., Salamanca, Portonariis/ ii. 1558, examines them, along with tournaments, etc., in a religious light. .Lotteries. THE lottery was introduced into Spain by Charles III., and became a great source of revenue. There were till lately two lotteries La An- tigua, on the French system, and La Moderna ; the former was suppressed in 1861 from fear of a ' combinacion' between players and the bureau clerks, by which, had the large prize come out, the treasury would have been exhausted ; and, as it was, .20,000 had been already lost by Go- vernment in a preceding sorteo of La Moderna. There are two occasionally three sorteos a month. The ticket costs from $10 to $30. On great holidays, such as Christmas Day, the ticket costs lOOOr., and the large prize is then of 200,000 duros, about 40,000, besides several minor prizes, the number of tickets being then from 25,000 to 30,000. The maximum premio heretofore has been of 1,020,000 francs. It has been calculated that of late years 1100 persons who had got prizes have become landed proprietors. Be this as it may, it is legal gambling fevers the peasant and workman's head with dreams, and empties his larder of realities. It is immoral, and will some day be suppressed. The net produce to the State is about 38,000,000r. The winning tickets that have never been claimed amount to a large sum. All but the State lotteries were abolished in 1882. Sport. SPAIN is eminently a country of the rod and the gun. Spaniards have been always great sportsmen (cazadores), first-rate shots owing to the clearness of the landscape that allows all distant objects to be so much relieved, and the constant guerilla warfare, that second nature of the Iberian, who, come what may, rule who will, is always ' de la oposicion.' From the careless way in which game is preserved, and its wild- ness, the sportsman has to exert himself in search of it, and not wait till it meets him, as in the fashionable slaughter-covers of England and France. C GENERAL INFORMATION. The rabbit (conejo) is abundant. Indeed, some trace the origin of the name of Spain, Hispania, to the Hebrew sephan, a rabbit Hares (liebres), red and white legged partridges (perdices), multiply with asto- nishing prolification ; the codorniz (quail), alondras (larks taken with the espejuelo, or mirror), are most plentiful. There is caza mayor, such as wild boars (javalies), deer (venados) ; and caza menor, such as the minor tribes of the partridge, the rabbit, and hare. The shooting-season begins in September. There is excellent caza de paso } birds of passage, in Sep- tember, October, and November, of codorniceSj and gallimtas (sand-piper), and chochas (woodcocks), about Tarifa, Gibraltar, the baldios of Andalucia, whose thick brushwood affords good cover, and the newly-ploughed compos of Castile. In November, winter shooting begins, and, besides gallinetas, bustards, snipe (agachadiza) (whence, ' hacer la agachadiza,' to stoop down and conceal one's^self), ansares (wild geese), wild duck (patos), of all sorts abound in shoals in the marshes (marismas) and lagoons (lagunas) of Albufera, near Valencia, of Alicante ; and, near Gibraltar, of Taivilla, Retin, Haudar, Casavieja, etc.; where 8000 to 10,000 head can be brought down by four or five guns in one month, say December. There is most excellent wild-boar hunting, on foot with ojeadares (or battue), and Sahuesos dogs, in Sierra Morena, Sierra de Valdecabras, and that of Cuenca. In the Montes de Toledo, the hospitable Nimrod, lord of a great portion of its best districts, the Marques de Malpica, has battues that often result in the death of several head of wild-boar. In Asturias, another nobleman, the Marques de Camposagrado, has capital sport with bears, wolves, etc. Javatos, deer, and stags abound in the Sierra Morena. In Sierra Bermeja, besides these, there are multitudes of corzos (roe-deer), cobras montesas, wild goat (' La cabra siempre tira al monte), like the chamois (ibex). The Conde de Luque possesses whole districts where they are found, which are situated between Estepona and Marbella. On the Spanish side of the Pyrenees, another sort of wild goat, the rupricabra, also called cobra montesa (the French louquetin, buck), and the izard and bears in winter afford excellent sport, now so rare in the French Pyrenees. There is likewise some first-rate fishing, and salmon abounds in the N. and N.W. coasts of Spain. Trout is equally plentiful in the rapid crystalline rivers in the Pyrenees, Gallicia, and Asturias. Near Madrid the angler will do well to visit the country about Avila, Plasencia, and Cuenca, which also afford excellent localities. The Spanish Mediterranean coast is well provided with fish, such as the delicious boquerones of Malaga, miyoles, and planosrayas. The Guadalquivir contains several good species. There are excellent oysters at el Padron (Gallicia). Tackle, hooks, rods, and flies are not to be obtained in Spain, where fly-fishing is not practised except in the North. CIGARS AND TOBACCO. c i Cigars and Tobacco. A SPANISH satirist has said that real progress will not begin in Spain until a decree comes out prohibiting the use of cloaks, knives, and cigarettes. ' Vamos a echar un puro ' is worse than twenty tragos, for the wine ends by being drained, but the puro never ends. A puro, nay, a humble pita, or paper cigar, goes a great length here. It serves as a letter of introduction, a shaking of the hands ( un cigarre fait des amis et rapproche des ennemis.' A Spaniard smokes always and everywhere ; when he is shaving, at meals, in the Paseo, the couloirs of the Opera- house, at the bull-fight, etc. It often is a substitute for meat and the < copa ' of the poor man, and is always the wealthier man's dessert. Towards the middle of the 16th century Spain and Portugal received the first samples of tobacco from America. The Spaniards called it tabaco, from the island of Tabago, one of the Antilles, near the coast of Caracas. Monsieur de Nicot, French ambassador at Lisbon (1560), sent some leaves of it to Catherine of Medici, who took a liking to it, using it as snuff, and the fashion began for ladies to take snuff, thanks to which we are now in possession of whole collections of exquisite miniatures and chiselling with which snuff-boxes were ornamented. A reaction, how- ever, afterwards ensued ; and although Moliere said, ' quoi que puisse dire Aristote et toute la philosophic, il n'y a rien d'egal au tabac,' French doctors of his day wrote against it, especially Fagon. Pope Urban VIII. (1624) excommunicated those who took snuff in churches. Sultan Amurat IV. had smokers condemned to death, and snuff-takers had their noses, as being the corps de d$lit, cut off. In 1661, the Senate of Berne published a Decalogue, in which smoking was announced as prohibited by God. In 1603, James I. of England wrote his pamphlet against smoking, calling it a habit, ' disgusting to the sight, repulsive to the smell, dangerous to the brain, unwholesome for the chest,' etc., and his proclamations against it were couched in very severe terms. Dr. Almiron Zayas wrote, in 1623, a book (see below) on the abuses and bad consequences of smoking and taking snuff, and Dr. Arias another. But the use continued and has become very general Children of five and six years old are seen smoking in Spain. There are men who smoke ten to fourteen puros a-day. Epileptic fits, consump- tion, dyspepsia, and nervous affections, are the more usual effects attending excesses. Dr. Ayo (1645) mentions it as an excellent medicine, a liqueur being extracted from it called ' miszela.' Chilblains are cured, he says, by rubbing them with dry tobacco-leaves, and then washed with warm brine. Tobacco is a monopoly of the State, there being about half a dozen huge factories in some of the principal towns, Sevilla, Valencia, Sant- ander, etc. The cultivation of the plant is forbidden in Spain where cii GENERAL INFORMATION. it would succeed admirably for the sake of benefiting the Habanas ! The consumption of tobacco, in its various forms, amounts to some twenty millions of pounds per annum. Travellers will do well to remember the subjoined observations. Fairly good and very low-priced cigars may be got occasionally from ship captains, concierges, etc. etc., but it is at the expense of throwing away a goodly proportion if one's palate is at all fastidious. Good Habana cigars are an article seldom met with in the country that rules the island of Cuba. They are sometimes to be found at restaurants or clubs. The surest way is to write for them to Cuba, or purchase them at the Cadiz Custom-House. N.B. Boxes sent from Cuba to parties are often changed at the Custom-House. The best cigars in the world are sent to London, New York, and St. Petersburg. Impo- sition, not always to be detected by connoisseurs, takes place in this trade. Thus the tripa, or inside, is often of inferior quality, whilst the capa, or external leaf, is of the very best sort. Again, such poor materials as Holandilla, made at Vitoria, burn snow-white ashes, which is effected by means of potash and soda. A false aroma can also be communicated by means of steeping the leaves in opium (that is a general practice with most cigars), or with vanille. The requisites for a first-rate cigar are : that it should burn by itself when lighted without going out for some time that the ashes be whitish-grey, without thick grains, and leaving but a faint ring round the burning ends that the smoke should ascend freely that the taste should be agreeable to the palate, soft, and not acid. The colour of the cigar generally indicates the degree of strength ' Colorado claro, oscuro.' The strength of a cigar also denotes the flavour, and when proceeding from a good manufacturer the stronger are always the best. The names, like those of Bordeaux wines, distinguish the vegas that produce very dissimilar weeds. The Vuelta de Abajo is generally the best district. There are 9482 vegas, or tobacco-plantations. The principal types for sizes and shapes are : Imperiales, Prensados, Regalia, half-Regalia, Trabucos-damas ; the extremer being purones of 25 centi- metres long, the smallest of 5 centimetres. The best Fabricas at the Habana are : Partagas, Cabanas, La India, and La Espanola. The prices, in Spain, vary from 3 duros to 25 duros the hundred. Average really good cigars cannot be had under 8 dollars. Let them not be too dry, as the aroma then is gone ; nor too wet, or new, as they are more difficult to smoke. Paper cigars (cigarillos) are made with picado (chopped) tobacco- leaves, from the Habana or United States, and called, according to its sort, superior, suave, or entrefuertes, and sold in cajetillas, already made. Those who prefer smoking them will purchase papel de Alcoy, and avoid spurious, very unwholesome prepared paper. There are also pajillaSj or cigarettes, made with Guatemala Indian corn, or the rice paper. Filippinos are an inferior produce and Spanish rape snuff is not worth the Paris Civette ARMS. ciii Arms. SWORDS. Spanish steel has been always celebrated, and the mines that produce now the finest ore were originally worked by the Romans and Goths. The best swords were made about the 1 4th, 1 5th, and 1 6th centuries. The Zaragoza, Toledo, and Valencia swordmakers, espaderos, were the most celebrated, and used especial marks, such as el perrillo, a miniature dog, placed by the Toledan Moor, Julien del R-ei, upon all his blades ; the morillO) at Zaragoza, the loba (the she-wolf), etc. Armourers (armeros) formed a guild, but worked separately, and concealed from each other the secrets for tempering, etc., which they employed to make those master- pieces so remarkable for the chiselling and damascene ornament introduced by the Moors. The principal swordmakers at Toledo were : Nicolas Orduno, Juan Martinez, Antonio Ruiz, Dionisio Corrientes. Those of Zaragoza were also held in great repute. A sword is called espada (toad a) ; the blade is la hoja ; the sheath, la vaina ; the handle, puno and porno, sable, the modern curved cavalry sword. The introduction of firearms dealt the first blow to sword-manufacture in Spain, and those now rnado at Toledo, although good weapons still, are no longer works of art. On the whole, the old blades, * Toledo's trusty/ a * soldier's dream,' which Othello * kept in his chamber,' were unequalled save in the East, but for form and design they were inferior to the Milanese and Florentines. All the celebrated swords of heroes had names, as well in France and Italy as in Spain : ' La Durandal ' and ' La Colada,' of the Cid, etc. The best examples of Spanish swords are collected in the Madrid Armeria. The Artilery Museo, the Armouries of the Dukes de Medinaceli, Alba, Fernan- Nunez, Osuna, are all very remarkable, as much for the intrinsic value as for the historical traditions attached to them. That formed by Cardinal Mendoza at Gaudalajara was one of the finest in Europe ; 4000 men and 4000 horses could be armed with its contents. Some war-horse arneses cost 5000 ducats; it was sold and partly stolen. Daggers. In the 1 6th and 1 7th centuries duels took place with the long rapier in one hand, and the long broquel, or dagger, with cazoleta hilt, in the other. The combat began with the former, and the thrusts were parried with the Iroquel, which served especially to finish the fallen foe, and was called in consequence miserere, the French coup de grace. The broquel was subsequently changed for the Italian poignard, punal, and became the favourite weapon of the lower orders, who were not allowed the use of rapiers. La navaja, or cuchillo, often as long as a common sword, settles at once all differences of opinion, blood being thought to wipe off any petty rancour. It is used very frequently, and has become an art in which the barateros are proficient. A baratero (from barato, cheap) lives by his knife. He frequents gambling circles, and receives some coins from the cowed- down players whom he has threatened to disturb if they should not grant his boon. This is called civ GENERAL INFORMATION. ' cobrar el barato/ to get change. In some cases, one of the challenged parties gets up and refuses to pay; upon which the champion fights. Death often ensues, as the stomach is aimed at. Those curious to learn more particulars may consult ' Manual del Baratero,' with prints. The best specimens of knives can be had at Madrid and Seville ; they are principally manufactured at Albacete ; they have bright colours on the blade, with mottoes a muelle or catch ; the price varies from 6r. to 3 Or. Firearms. Spanish fowling-pieces now-a-days are manufactured in very small quantities, at the manufactories of Trubia and Eybar, together with indifferent field-pieces. Yet the poorest peasant has a retaco of all sizes and for all objects ; from the blunderbuss, trabuco, to the escopela de caza. They are all sportsmen and excellent shots. The firearms made in Spain in the reign of Philip IV. and V. were excellent, and among the finest then in the world ; and revolvers were more frequently made than may be generally believed. The Madrid Armeria, and Artilery Museo, contain a complete collection of examples of the arcabuceros de Madrid, pistolas de rueda. The best armourer of the present day in Spain is Sr. Zuloaga at Madrid. The best works to consult on the above subjects are : an extensive work recently published in England, on ' Arms and Armours/ by Hewitt. ' Gatalogo de la Real Armeria ;' Madrid, latest issue ; very accurate. An important French work, with excellent engravings by Sensi and Jubinal ; the text not always reliable ; Paris, 1838. An Essay on ancient Spanish arms in Mohedano's ' Historia Literaria,' 3d vol., etc. The Arab work of Mohammed-Ben- Ali, El-Erani, etc. Details also may be found in Parro's ' Toledo en la Mano,' 2d vol. p. 595, etc. General Conde de Cleonard's work on the History of Spanish Arms, ' Historia de Armas en Espana,' costs 1056r. Coins. THIS is not a virgin land for numismatics, as the science is old in Spain, and there have been always collectors. Many false coins, besides the current ones, are sold to the unexperienced traveller, especially on the sites of celebrated ruins. The collection at the Biblioteca National, Madrid, exceeds 150,000 in number, and is one of the most important in Europe ; especially as illustrating some otherwise obscure facts of the history of Spain. It abounds in a most complete and admirably classified monetarios of very early Spanish, Roman, Gothic, and Moorish coins. There were upwards of a hundred cities in Roman-Spain that had the privilege of a mint. The municipii coins are not very often met with. The best places to make purchases but caveat einptor ! are Granada, Seville, Valencia, and M^rida. There are several fine private collections, but one of the finest that was ever made in Spain that formed by the DUTIES TARIFF. CV Swedish Charge* d' Affaires, Le Chevalier Lorichs was dispersed at his death. The most interesting to collect are the Keltiberian coins, the coins of the Municipii and Colonise immunes. Koman and Moorish silver coins are easily obtained ; not so, gold ones. Coppers, often interesting, can be picked up for a few reals at tobacconists'. The best works on the subject are : ' Medallas de Espana,' by Father Henrique Florez ; 3 vols. folio. Madrid, 1 757-73 J with plates. One of the most important works ever published on the matter. * Medallas de Proclamaciones of Juras,' by Herrera, 1884. Delgado, ' Monedas Autonomas de Espana ' ; the works of Zobel y Zangroniz on Keltiberian coins, of Codera and Stanley Lane Poole on Arabic ; Heiss's great work, ' Description generate des Monnaies antiques de 1'Espagne,' and ' Les premiers Ages de Metal dans le Sud-est de PEspagne,' by Henri and Louis Siret. Finances and Funds. THE Finances of Spain have always been the stumbling-block of her progress in the path of civilisation. When mistress of the world, she was poor, embarrassed, the slave of expediency. She has had great theoretical financiers, who make poems out of budgets ; and ' 1'art de grouper les chiffres ' is admirably practised here ; but the public chest partakes sadly of the nature of Pandora's box, chiefly through dishonest local assessment and imperfect collection of the Revenue. Justice is, however, rarely done to the immense improvement that has been estab- lished in this as in every other department of State under the wise administration of King Alfonso. The National Debt has been consoli- dated, and now consists of the following stocks : ,68,000,000 Interior, redeemable at par in 38 years by quarterly drawings ; .90,000,000 Perpetual Interior, and 80,000,000 Exterior; altogether 238,000,000, bearing interest at 4 per cent, requiring 9,520,000 per annum for interest, together with 1,000,000 for Sinking Fund. There is only a small floating debt. Revenue and Expenditure now as nearly as possible balance at, in round figures, 36,000,000. Duties Tariff. The following ordinary tourist's articles pay duty upon entering Spain : Brandy ', etc., i peseta per litre. Books and other printed matter, 10 pesetas per 100 kilos. (If in Spanish 42 pesetas.) Boots and all articles of attire if unused, according to the material, with 50 % added. Carriages, from 312 to lopo pesetas. Cigars and Tobacco, prohibited. Guns, 5 pesetas per kilo. Cartridges, 60 cents. ^Horses, from 30 to 128 pesetas, according to kind and size. Maps, plans, etc., 5 reals per kilo ; pictures, i peseta each. Perfumery, 2 pesetas per kilo. Saddlery, etc., 3.75 per kilo. Scientific Instruments, about 3 pesetas each. cvi GENERAL INFORMATION. Everything is admitted free into England except cigars, tobacco, liqueurs, spirits, plate, tea, and wine. Lace and silk stuffs, jewellery and goldsmith's work, porcelain and arms are charged rather heavily in the French custom houses if found. The "Arancel de Aduanas" is a useful little companion in Spain. In England the " Eeturns of the Kates of Import Duties levied in European countries, etc.," price Is. 6d., should be consulted for all details. N.B. The above duties are liable to somewhat arbitrary infliction and variation. As a matter of fact few articles save cigars and ladies' new attire are looked for with any strictness. Courtesy and friendliness will smooth away almost all custom-house difficulties. Money Measures and Weights. MONEY. The monetary unit is the peseta, a coin composed of T ^ths of silver and y^th of copper. Its value is, as nearly as possible, lOd. in English money. Accounts are kept in pesetas, reals, and centimos, but the old ochavo, cuarto, and dos cuartos pieces are still largely used. The following table gives a list of the coins at present in circulation, with their equivalents in English money : Copper Ochavo . . = i J centimos of a peseta. s. D. Cuarto . . . = $ Real = o o oj Dos Cuartos . = i = o o 05 Cinco Centimos. = -fa Peseta = o o o Diez Centimos . . = -fa = o o i Silver Real . . . . = i Real =002^ Media Peseta . . = 2 Reals =005 Peseta . . . = 4 = o o 10 Dos Pesetas . . = 8 = o i 8 Escudo . . . = 10 ,, = o 2 o Duro . . . = 20 ,, = o 4 i Gold 5 Pesetas (duro) . . = 20 ,,=041 10 . . . = 40 ,, = o 8 2 Doblon (disused) . . = 80 = o 16 4 25 Pesetas (100 Reals) . = 100 ,, = i o 6 Media Onza . . . = 160 ,, = i 13 o Onza . . . . = 320 =360 The duro in accounts is often marked $. MONEY. CVli PORTUGUESE, SPANISH, FRENCH, ENGLISH, AND AMERICAN MONEY. PORTUGUESE. SPANISH. FRENCH. ENGLISH. AMERICAN. Gold Real. Centvo. Francs. Centms. s. d. $ cents. Coroa, 10,000 reis . 22O 40 57 30 260 II. J-Coroa . no 2O 28 60 I 3 o 5-50 I -5th Coroa . 44 8 ii 46 o 9 2j 2.20 i-ioth Coroa 22 4 5 73 047 1. 10 Moeda . . 129 34 i 7 o 6-35 Meia Moeda . 6 4 50 17 o 13 6 3-17 Silver Five Tostao, 500 reis II 2 2 85 o 2 31 0-55 i Teston . 2 28 o 58 005 0. II \ Teston, 50 reis I 14 29 2j -5 N.B. The five-franc piece is worth 1000 reis. The sovereign is worth 4500 reis. MONEY TABLE FOR READY RECKONING. FRENCH. PORTUGUESE. SPANISH. ENGLISH. AMERICAN. francs. Cen- times. Mil- reis. Reis. Escu- dos. Reals. Cen- tavos. Shillings. 1 $ Cents. . . 13 . . 22 . . 50 . . ii . . 5 t . 26 . . 45 m 1 . . . . 2! . . 5 . . 5 . . 90 . . 2 . , . . 5 . . 10 . . 76 . . 135 . . 3 . . U . . 15 I 4 . . I 80 . . 4 . . . . 10 . . 20 I 30 . . 225 . . 5 . . I ft . . 25 I 45 250 . . 5 50 I 2 . . 28 I 58 . . 270 . . 6 . . I 3 30 I 85 . . 315 . . 7 . . I h . . 35 2 12 . . 360 . . 8 . . I 8 . . 40 2 38 . . 405 . . 9 . . I 10 2 . . 45 2 60 445 10 2 I 5o 2 85 CD 500 11 2 al 55 3 9 6 t 668 . . 15 t 3 2 76 5 26 890 20 4 2 I 5 70 . . 1000 . . 22 . . 4 ^2 I 12 1 1 40 2 . . . . 44 . . 9 I 2 24 13 - 2 225 50 10 3 2 52 26 2 450 100 20 6 5 4 CV111 MONEY. Bills of Exchange. Banking. The exchange on the principal markets in Europe is daily published in most Spanish papers. The 'Change at par between Spain and Eng- land is 50d. 45c. for a duro (2 Or.) The simplest rule to ascertain how many pounds sterling will be given in London for Spanish duros is the following : Multiply the number of duros by the 'Change, and the product will be the quantity desired, expressed in pence and a fraction ; viz. 756 duros 50.30 rate of exchange 22.680 3,802.680 pence and fractions. Which we reduce to shillings by dividing the above product by 12 (12d. in Is.) the result being 3162s., which again reduced to pounds by dividing by 20, gives us 158 : 8s. The same operations will suffice for ascertaining the value of reals in \ on London. The usual change given for a pound sterling is 97r. pico mas 6 pico menos. They are also drawn at three days. A cheque is called una letra; a draft, libranza; to draw, librar. The par between France and Spain is 5fr. 26ic. for one duro (2 Or.) The same rule subsists for knowing the result of 'Change as shown above. Travellers will do well to provide them- selves on leaving England with circular notes, and not letters of credit, as they thus avoid paying commission. Travellers proceeding out of the beaten track will do well to procure small letters of credit from Spanish bankers, on those of other small towns, where circular notes are not so much respected. The numerous agency offices of the Giro Mutuo Bank may be also resorted to. The usual form of receipt is this : ' He recibido de (name or place) la cantidad de (the sum in letters) valor en cuenta (or valor por) such and such an object. ' Son, rs. vn (sum in numbers) (signature)' with a rubrica. N.B. A rubrica i.e. a flourish or dash with the pen under the name and always the same, is necessary. Without it legal documents in Spain are not regularly drawn, and these garabalos are often most intricate and long to execute ; all the Koyal Decrees end with the formula : ( Esta rubricado de la real mano.' He who ' no sabe ni poner una rubrica ' is indeed worse than an ' infeliz.' He is ' un majadero de marca mayor.' Endeavour to obtain no change from bankers for circular notes, except money, gold especially, as bank-notes are not easily changed in shops, and are not legal tenders as soon as the bearer is out of the province. Indeed, in Madrid, the Banco de Espaiia notes are not accepted outside the very gates of the capital except at a discount. French Napoleons MEASURES. are current almost everywhere. The principal cities to change money are Bayonne, Barcelona, Madrid, Cadiz, and Gibraltar. The Lettre (Vindication that accompanies the circular notes ought to be kept separate for greater security. Be always provided with small change, silver and copper, and avoid Spanish bank-notes. We have purposely omitted mentioning the coins peculiar to each province, as they are now extant but in few, and are very rapidly disappearing. N.B. Foreign money can always be purchased on better terms the further the seller is from the country where the money circulates. Measures. THE French metrical decimal system has been introduced by decree of July 13, 1849, and is the only official one ; but its use has not as yet become quite general, and the vara, legua, cuartillo, etc., are still pre- ferred to the metro, kilometre, litro, etc. Old Spanish measures still in use. The vara is the base ; it consists of 3 pies (feet), each of 12 pulgados (inches), each of 12 lineas, and is equal to 836 millimetres, or about 2782 English feet. English Spanish 100 yards make . . 109 varas and 30 pulgadas 12 feet ,, . 13 pies 12 inches ,, . . 13 pulgadas COMPARATIVE MEASURE OF THE FRENCH METRE AND ENGLISH YARD. English 03937 inches '3937 3'937 39'37* an d i vara 7 pulgadas, 74 cents, of a linea. decametre (10 m.) . 1-9884 poles kilometre . 4*971 furlongs myriametre ,, . 6*214 miles A metre is therefore about 3^ inches longer than an English yard, and a myriametre about 6^ miles. REDUCTION OF VARAS INTO METRES AND YARDS. French millimetre is equal to centimetre ,, decimetre metre Varas. Metres. Yards. Varas. Metres. Yards. I . 0,835 exact -91 9 . . 7,515 about 8 2 . 1,670 about 2 10 . 8,350 8| 3 2,505 3 20 . 16,700 17 4 - - 3,340 3 50 . 41,750 42 5 4,175 A IOO . 83,500 84 6 . . S^oio 5j 500 . 417,500 420 7 - - 5^45 6 1000 . 835,000 ,, 840 8 . . 6,680 7 CX MEASURES. i metre == i vara, 7 pulgadas, 74 cents, of a linea. i millimetre =50 cents, of a linea, or half-linea. i centimetre. The following is a rule to reduce all ancient measures into modern that is, varas, leguas, etc., into metres, kilometres viz. one Spanish league is 5 kil. 555 metres ; therefore, to ascertain how many kilometres, multiply the 5 kil. 555 metres by the number of leagues you wish to reduce ; then separate the three last numbers on the right by a comma, and the remaining total forms the kilometres, whilst the three numbers to the right constitute the metres. Example : How many kilometres are there in 12 leagues ? kil. m. 5 555 multiplied by 12 leagues, produce II IIO 55 55 66 660 ; viz. 66 kil. 660 metres. To reduce metres to varas, the same rule stands good. Multiply 1 vara 7 pulg. 74 cents, of a linea by the number of metres desired. The varas differ considerably according to the provinces, and are still in ioo canas of Cataluna equal 185 Castilian varas. TOO varas of Valencia ,, 108 ditto (or 106) ioo ,, Aragon ,, pif ditto ioo Navarre ,, 94$ ditto ioo ,, Balearic Isles 185 ditto ioo Portuguese,, 136 ditto ioo English Yards ec The toesa i estado, or braza i codo i palmo i paso geometrico i cordel ual 109 varas, 30 pul. etc. , 6 feet , 2 varas , vara , 9 pulgadas , 5 pies , 5 pasos geomet. The Spanish league (leyua), of 20 to a degree, is of 20,000 geomet- rical feet (pasos), equal to the nautical league of 3 geographical miles = 5 kilometres and 555 metres, about 3*45 English m. The old Spanish league of 174 to the degree = nearly 4 English m., often familiarly called leguas largos by the guides and all caminantes. A statute English mile =1760 yds. = 5280 ft. = 69 to a degree. Superficial Measures. The official one is the French hectare, equal to 10,000 square metres, 2-471 acres, or, roughly, 24 acres, or thereabouts. The fanega is the usual Spanish land measure. It is thus com- posed : x fanega =12 celemines = 4 cuartillos = 12 estadales : 1 6 varas cuadradas (9 estadales make i are and 0.062). = 0,0069,873,716 ares (French) GENERAL INFORMATION. CXI REDUCTION OF SUPERFICIAL FANEGAS TO HECTARES. 1 Fanegas. Hectares. Fanegas. Hectares. I .... 0-6440 10 ... 6-4396 2 .... 1-2879 50 ... 32-1978 5 .... 3-2198 IOO . . . 64'3956 N.B. The fanega of Castilla is different from that of the other provinces. The yugada (literally yoked, or yoking), the land that two bullocks can plough in a day. The journal of the South of France, the almud, etc., varies considerably. An aranzada is as much as a pair of oxen can plough in a day. The square centimetre is equal to '155 square inches, or rather less than ^th of a square inch. I metre carre=i-i96 sq. yards, or 10,000 sq. centimetres. A Spanish sq. foot =7 -746 decimetres carres. The vara cuadrada = 6 pies cuadradas. I pie cuadrado =144 pulgadas cuadradas. i pulgada cuadrada = 144 lineas cuadradas. MEASURES OF CAPACITY, WEIGHT. i quintal = 4 arrobas i = 25 libras i ,, = 16 onzas i = 16 adarmes i =3 tomines = 12 granos. Arrobas. Kil. centig. mil. Arrobas. Kil. centig. mil. i arroba . 2 ... 3 11,502,325 23,005 34,507 5 arrobas . . 10 50 57,512,000 "5,023 575.H6 Approximately, i kilog. is somewhat more than 2 libras; 46 kilog., 100 libras (pounds) ; the gramme, 15-4340 English grains; I cwt, about 1 10^ libras. I tonelada (tons) =20 quintales, or 920 kilog. 186 centig. 5 =4,601 kilogs. 10 ,, = 9,202 loo =92,119 i kilog. is equal to 2-2055 Ibs. English; 100 kilog. to 1-97 cwt. ; 1000 kilog. (or tonneau), to 19-7 cwt. CX11 MEASURES. GRAIN, OR DRY MEASURES. l cahiz = 12 fanegas I ,, =12 celemines (or almudes) i ,, =4 cuartillos I ,, =4 ochavos i ,, =8 ochavillos I cuartillo . . 1.156 litre I cahiz . . . 666 ,, i fanega . . 55i , The hectolitre = i fanega, 9 celemines, 2 cuartillos, 486 mil. of cuartillo, i litre = 86 5 -thousandths of a cuartillo i fanega === about 1 4 bushel 5 fanegas = about I quarter i fanega . 0.5550 hectols. 5 , 2.7751 10 . 5-5501 50 fanegas . 27.7505 hectol 100 . 55.5010 ,. 1000 . 555.0100 , ? 46 pies cubicos =0-995 -096 mil. cub. 50 ,, =l metre cube and 081-626 mil. cub. The cubic metre = 35*317 cubic feet (English) The cubic centimetre = o -06100 cubic inches i decalitre is about an English peck, and 2? Q hectolitres about I English quart. LIQUID MEASURES. i moyo (seldom used) = 10 cantaras (arrobas of 34 libras each) j =4 cuartillos (seldom used) i = 2 azumbres i =4 cuartillos i = 4 copas The arroba or cantara = 3'55 English gallons, or 16 litres, 13*0 centilitres ; 1 litre approximately somewhat more than 1 cuartilo viz. 1 cuartillo, 3 copas, 92 centesimos of a copa. The litre = -|ths of an English gallon, or 2*11 wine pints, or -97 of an English quart. The arrobe is marked @. In oil measures : the arroba contains 25 libras, and each 4 panillas. 1 arrobe =12 litres, 56f centil. 1 litre = 1 libra, 3 panillas, 96 centesimos of a panilla. Oil: I arrobe 12-563 litres. 2 ,, 25-126 ,, 5 . . . ... 62-815 10 ,, 125-630 100 ,, 1256-300 i bota de vino or pipe = about up to 115 gallons. It will bottle about 52 dozen, i marco = 8 onzas (equal to the light marc, each of 8 dracmas) i =8 ochavas, or dracmas i =2 adarmes i ,, = tomines i =12 granos. GENERAL INFORMATION. cxiii 2 tomines = 1.198 grammes ; i gramme = 15.4340 English grains. i marco = 0.2300465 kilogrammes. 5 marcos = 1.150233 i kilate = 4 granos ; i grano = 8 partes de grano = 51.4 milligrammes. 5 kilates = 1.027 grammes, For Medicine : i libra medicinal = 12 onzas i =8 dracmas, or ochavas i ,, =3 escrupulos i ,, =24 granos i libra medicinal . . . 0.345 kilog. 5 ,, 1-725 10 .... 3.451 The gramme is = 15.44 English grains. 2^ French grains are equal to 2 English grains. About 6 codos cubicos = i cubic metre. i tonelada de arqueo = 1.518 cubic metres. The lastre = 2 toneladas. i tonelada (ships) = 20 cwt. or i ton. GUIDE TO SPAIN. ALCAL.A (DE HENARES) (BIRTHPLACE OF CERVANTES). Province of Madrid. Population, 15,000, diocese of Toledo. Routes. 1st, From Madrid, by rail, 21 miles, 1 hr. by mail train, about 1 hr. by dir. tr. ; fares, 1st cl., P. 3.95 ; 2d cl., P. 3.05. It is on the direct R. line from Zaragoza to Madrid, its last largest town. The best plan is to visit it whilst at Madrid and return the same day, to avoid discomfort at the posada (inn). Besides, there is but little hereto interest the general tourist. It is about six leagues from Madrid by the carretera (high road). Hotel. Fonda de Universo. General Description. Alcala stands in a plain, on the right bank of the He- nares, which winds its way, hiding, as if for shame, its muddy thin sheet of water behind some stately elms. Seve- ral lofty sandy cerros screen it from the N. winds, but it is nevertheless a very cold and wind-blown place in winter. The former town, or rather village, that was grouped around a castle built by the Moors, whence it received its actual name Al-Kalat, the Castle was al- ready known in the time of the Romans, who called it Complutum, and, accord- ing to Pliny, was a stipendiary city, subjected to the Jurid. Conventus of Caesar -Augusta (Zaragoza) : several vases and coins that turn up now and then would seem to confirm this state- ment. Guadalajara, nevertheless, is, or rather was formerly, the rival of Al- cala, and disputed with it the right of being Pliny's Complutum. The citadel stood on the site now called Alcala la Vieja. About 1118, the first archbishop of Toledo, Don Bernardo, built a rival fortress on the hill now called Mai Ve- cino, and the Moors, who possessed the city, had to surrender. This prelate was the real conqueror of Alcala, which, in reward, was given to him with all the land around by King Alonso VI., and confirmed to his successor Raimun- do. This last, a truly-styled prince of the Church, thus became the absolute sovereign of this petty principality, which, however, never ceased to be, ecclesiastically, dependent on the see of Toledo. Among many other curious illustrations of those times which we read in the Fueros or charter that he gave to his people (they are found in a fine codex of the 13th century in the municipal archives of that city), is the following law : * The man who will pull another by the beard is to be fined four maravedis, and have his own cut away ; and if he should have none, let him have an inch deep of flesh cut into his chin.' Strange to say, great tolerance was shown by these archbishops to w^rds ALGAL! (DE HEN^EES), the Jews, and a perfect equality between them and Christians established before the law, 'peche como pechan por ve- zino cristiano a cristiano ; ' but this spirit of moderation did not extend to the hated infidels, the Moors, who were treated always as the conquered people, and dealt with accordingly. The see of Complutum is one of the earliest in Spain, and its two celebrated martyrs, Santos Justo y Pastor, lived in the time of Dacian. Those who are curious in martyrology and modern miracles may consult on this subject, 'JLa Yida, Mar- tirio, etc., de los Ninos SS. Justo y Pastor,' by A. Morales. Alcala, 1568, 4to (rare). It contains, besides, some very curious information relative to the antiquities of Alcala. Several kings have often resided at Alcala, where, moreover, the Cortes of the kingdom were held in former times and on various occasions ; but it has been chiefly one of the battle-fields of the all-grasping, all-powerful theocracy of Spain, and celebrated for Arch. Teno- rio's efforts to obtain the regency during Enrique III.'s minority ; for Cerezuela's partizan warfare on behalf of Don Al- varo de Luna, and Carrillo's intrigues in favour of La Beltraneja against the interests of Ferdinand and Isabella, in the arrangement of whose marriage he had played so principal a part. Their daughter, Catherine of Aragon, whom Shakspeare makes Henry VIII. define as 'the queen of earthly queens,' was born at Alcala, and so was the same Catholic king's grandson Ferdinand, subsequently Emperor of Germany, whose birth caused his mother Juana the loss of her reason ; but Alcala's greatest glory must for ever be to have given birth to Cervantes. The prospe- rity of Alcala, inaugurated by the Church, attained its acme under the wise protection of Card. Ximenes, more generally known by Spaniards as Cisne- ros, who studied here, and founded the celebrated university in 1510, endow- ing it generously, and filling its colleges with some of the most learned scholars of his age. When, in obedience to the spirit of centralisation a bad importa- tion from France the university was removed to Madrid in 1836, Alcala fell, never to rise again, and is now but a shadow of its former self, a backward, solitary, abandoned city, without re taining any quaintness or originality or even environs, to compensate for all its other losses. Alcala was indeed pros- perous as the seat of learning, when its halls were thronged by eleven thou- sand students, when Cervantes, study- ing here before he removed to Madrid and Salamanca, called it the 'famoso Compluto' (' Galatea,' vol. i. p. 121), and it counted nineteen colleges. Then, on the banks of the river, 'las riberas del famoso HenareV (Cervantes, 'Gala- tea,' vol. L p. 66), the estudiantina, or Burschenschaft, held merry assemblies. These were the Spanish estudiantes, who studied principally for the Church, and belonged to the middle and lower classes. Their want of funds and continual re- sort to expedient, mingled with gaiety and laziness, has given them a peculiar character, style, and reputation. Dur- ing vacations and carnival, they went, and still continue to go, in bands about the streets with their usual and now antiquated cloaks in rags, and torn two- corner hats, and singing with a guitar under the windows beg for pence and smiles from regas. Un estudiante tunante Se puso a pintar la luna, Y de hambre que tenia Pintd un plato de aceitunas. Anda, vida mia, abre la ventana, Mira que lucida llevo la sotana. Sights. Colegio de San Ildefonso (Capilla del Cardinal Cisneros), Archi- episcopal Palace, La Colegiata (cathe- dral), Church of Santa Maria. ALCALA (DE HENARES). 3 Colegio de flan Ildefonso. This colegio mayor was the seat of the for- mer university. It has a grand effect when seen from a distance, but on closer examination becomes clumsy and mass- ive. It was magnificently built and endowed by Ximenes. The few remain- ing halls, patios, and galleries are deso- late and lonely, but still bear vestiges of their former grandeur. Of the Para- ninfo, where degrees were conferred, and which was richly ornamented in the 16th century, there exists little now except the ceilings and the ornamented galleries which run round. The principal curiosity here is the chapel built by Gil de Ontanon in a semi-Moorish Gothic style with great magnificence and taste. The tomb of the founder should be noted. It is of marble, very elaborately and delicately chiselled, the work of Domenico of Florence. One of the most remarkable men the world has ever produced remarkable alike for integrity, indomi- table perseverance, self-denial, devotion to his religion, and the extraordinary versatility of his talents Ximenes, Francis de Cisneros, was throughout his long life pre-eminently one of the people. He was born of humble stock at Torrelaguna, in 1437, educated at Alcala and Rome, and became success- ively Vicar-General of the great Men- doza, Confessor of Isabella la Cattilica, Archbishop of Toledo, Cardinal, and Regent of Spain. The primacy he steadily refused until his acceptance of it was commanded by Pope Innocent VIIL, and to the end he remained in all his private ways the simple and stern Franciscan monk. Some of his enterprises were naturally dictated and stained by the uncharitable and lawless spirit of the age, but, upon the whole, his de facto government of the country especially during the troublous days succeeding the death of Isabella was characterised by consummate wisdom and enlightenment. The usual fate of all great men finally overtook him, and he died, Nov. 6, 1517, in semi-disgrace, broken-hearted at the ingratitude of Charles V. His latter years were spent at Alcala, in the production, at a cost of 80,000 ducats, of his famous Com- plutensian Polyglot Bible (Complutum, or Confluvium, the Roman name of the city), printed here in 6 vols. folio in 1517, but not published until 1522. Over this his most cherished work Cisneros spared neither pains nor ex- pense in collecting authentic MSS. and bringing together the finest avail- able scholars of the day. It contains, besides the Hebrew text, the Septuagint Greek, the Chaldee (each with a literal Latin version) and the Vulgate ; and, while no longer held in great esteem for its own sake, is entitled to the greatest honour as the first work of its kind, and an almost superhuman labour of love and energy. The place has lost most of its literary treasures, but one may still find here some curious books and MSS. among others the celebrated Alphonsine Tables, drawn up by order of Alfonso X. The work is written in Spanish, and is one of the earliest of Western science written in a modern language ; the introduction is the catalogue of the fixed stars, celebrated as ' Las Tablas Alfonsinas.' This work was a great step towards the diffusion of knowledge in the 13th century. These books contain, besides methods, etc. , and the tables, eloquent and poetical explanations. The follow- ing passage will show the style and quaint manner of the king. Speaking of Ursa Major, he says, * Some astron- omers have taken it for a wain with its pole ; others say it has the form of an animal, which might as well be a lion, a wolf, or a dog, as a male or a female bear. Here, then, are heavenly animals ALGAL! (DE HENARES). inhabiting that part of the sky where this constellation is to be found, and recognised by ancient astronomers be- cause they saw four stars forming a square, and three in a right line. They must have been endowed with a better eyesight than ours, and the sky must have been very clear. Since they say it is a she-bear, let it be one ; they were lucky in being able to distinguish it. ' The ancient astronomers did not err in their estimate of the Alphonsine Tables. Regiomontanus says, ' Beware lest you trust too much to blind calculation and Alphonsine dreams. ' Tycho Brahe says that the 400,000 ducats expended upon the tables would have been better laid out in actual observation of the heavens. In point of truth, Alfonso had little or nothing to do with the tables that bear his name. (See also about these tables, Ticknor's 'History of Spanish Litera- ture,' vol. i. p. 35, note.} Archiepiscopal Palace. Observe the second patio and staircase built by the primates Fonseca and Tavera, both of them of good plateresque ; also the Berruguete - like windows of the first patio and garden fa9ade. The archives now housed here Archivo Historico should be visited for the sake of their literary curiosities, and, especially, the series of documents relating to the Great Inquisition. La Colegiata, or San Justo y Pastor. This church is the oldest parish in Alcala, and was raised to a colegiata in 1479. The edifice was considerably enlarged in 1497 and 1509 under Pedro Gumiel. It was styled Magistral by Pope Leo X., when Cisneros caused all its prebendaries to be doctors in divinity. It is situated in a plazuela, and presents a plain fa$ade with an indifferent stone tower. Its three naves are deficient in beauty and proportions ; the reja which leads into the presbytery was elabor- ately worked by Juan Frances. The principal retablo in the presbytery is barroque, and all around is modernised, churrigueresque, paint, and bad taste ; under it is a crypt, where the remains of the martyr boys, Justo y Pastor, are kept with great veneration. The paintings of Carducho, etc., are very indifferent. The Church of Santa Maria should be vi- sited by all readers of Don Quixote, as it was here that Miguel de Cervantes Saaverda was christened. We read in the registry of births of this church, in the book which begins in 1533 and ends 1550 : ' On Sunday, gth Oct. of the year of our Lord 1547, was baptized Miguel, son of Rodrigo de Cervantes, and of his wife Dona Leoner. Juan Pardo was god- father, and he was baptized by the Bachiller Serrano, curate of Our Lady. The witnesses being the sacristan (sexton), Baltasar Vazquez, and I who baptized him. Signed, Bachiller Serrano.' In this same book are also the ' par- tidas de bautismo ' of his brother Andre's, bap- tized 1542, and his sisters, Andrea, 1544, and Luisa, 1546. The Mineral Baths of Loeches (sulphates of soda and magnesia) are situated n kil. from the Alcald station. Dominican convent, palace and tomb of the Duke of Olivares, Philip IV.'s minister. Diligence from Alcala during the bathing season, June isth to Sept. i$th. Books of Reference i. 'Vida, Martirio, etc., de los gloriosos Ninos Martires SS. Justo y Pastor,' by Amb. de Morales ; Alcala, Angulo, 1568 scarce, and containing curious informa- tion on the antiquities of the town. 2. ' Descripcion de la Universidad de Alcala,' by Vergara (MS.) 3. ' Seminario de Nobles, Taller de Vener- ables,' etc. ; ' El Colegio Mayor de San Pedro y San Pablo,' with a life of Card. Cisneros, by Alcolea (Madrid.) Martin, 1777) ; another ' Life ' by Albar Gomez, and an incomplete one by Vergara. For the history of Cardinal Ximenes, ' Vida de Ximenes,' etc., by Eugenio Robles, 410, Toledo, 1604 ; Prescott's ' Ferdinand and Isa- bella ' or Hefele's ' Der Cardinal Ximenes und die Kirchlichen Zustande Spaniens,' etc., Tu- bingen, 1851. ./-vj /SZ^HN / ^aaAB^ai^^^^^j ^nxwai. ) >-"-o^ - ,/ 3^^^-* / Ua ^j4 \ k*A ^4 rtSmmmd \ \ r j ^7CTten^~-- \/ A,. 8 WH S n. x v-^4- or^ / ^4,\ I \\ *.f?-Citxnf.ttte \^ \ \ "-^i^u-^UJ^o W { CaiU-t*. \^\j^A ^'C'"/ i y ..,,, Jfom^/. / Jll^'-a^ 1 , \ 4U, >n ; i,, Ku ,iJ/A c**^- .. (p'-v-"' tSr^jL*,, Oifiu^ ^^" X\ /^" i'.',-/,/^'-^ ^^vJnitaM ^e^' \**i> ROUTES TO ALICANTE. 1st. From Madrid. By railway in 13 J hours by mail train, about 17 hours by omnibus train ; distance, 282 miles or 455 kil. ; two trains a day ; fares, 1st cl., Pes. 52.35 ; 2d cl., Pes. 40.60 ; 3d cl., Pes. 24.90. Station at Madrid, Puerta de Atocha ; same road as Madrid to Valencia as far as La Encina (see Valencia). At La Encina a good buffet. The road from La Encina is not pictur- esque, and the villages uninteresting. At Villena (12,000 inhabitants, once the appanage of the celebrated Mary of that name) there is on a hill an old historical castle of no artistic merit ; the slopes of the hills around are clothed with vines, and the great annual fair, held Sept. 29 to Oct. 5, is of consider- able importance, the sales amounting then to about 120,000. A road here leads to Alcoy, where the best cigarette- paper in Spain is manufactured, with woollens, coarse and inferior. The river is the Vinalap6. Three miles from Sax the Vinalap6 is crossed, and a tunnel begins of 530 yards (485 metres) long ; 2 kil. after Monovar the Vinalapo is crossed again on a bridge which is considered the most important work on that line. Novelda (pop. 8100) is one of the most picturesque valleys in this part of Spain. This, with the country around Elche, and the whole valley of the Seguras, lias been compared to the delta of the Nile, and its natural pro- ductions are the orange, the palm, Indian corn, fruits of all sorts, aniseed, oil, wine, etc. Three miles from it is an almost ignored sulphureous spring. Dil. here to Murcia, Elche, etc. (See Murcia.) 2d. From Valencia. A. By rail. Take tickets to Alicante. At La Encina carriages are changed, and travellers have ordinarily to wait for train from Madrid to Alicante. Only two trains (the mail and slow) leave daily from Valencia to La Encina. Time, 4 hrs. by mail, and about 7 by slow train; fares, 1st cl., 53r. 35c. ; 2d cl., 40r. 40c. ; 3d cl., 23r. 60c. Dis- tance, 113 kils. N.B. Hours of trains should be carefully combined, so as to avoid delay at La Encina, and even passing the night there ; but if the latter be the case, the French people who keep the Buffet supply some very decent rooms, and the fare is tolerable. The inn close by is very wretched. From La Encina to Alicante, time about 3 hrs. by either train ; distance, 97 kil. ; fares, 1st cl., 43r. ; 2d cl., 33r. (For details of road from Valencia to La Encina, see Valencia B. ) B. By sea, 12 hrs. by steamers of the Compania General Trasatlantica, and others occasionally, which are advertised in papers of Valencia and Alicante, llOr., 80r., and 40r. 3d. From Murcia (see Murcia), by rail, through Elche and Orihuela ; two trains per day ; time, 3J hours ; fares, 1st cl., 34r. 60c. ; 2d cl., 26r. 20c. ; 3d cl., 17r. 30c. Also from Barcelona, Malaga, etc., by steam. (For particulars, see adver- tisements in daily papers and railway guides. ) ALICANTE. Capital of the province of Alicante, seaport, fortified place. Pop. 36,000. Bailway Station. At the station, omnibuses and carriages in attendance at fixed fares. A special omnibus of Fonda del Vapor. N.B. To avoid luggage being visited, fee of 8r. to 12r. to officials. At the pier, on landing from or to steamer, 2r. per passenger, and 2r. ordinary-sized packages, a tariff. Agree nevertheless before taking a boat. Hotels. De Bossio^ Calle del Duque de Zaragoza. Very good ; charges moderate ; excellent table. La Marina, Del Yapor, near the harbour ; both fair commercial houses, not so good as the Bossio ; slightly lower rates. At all hotels the price of pension includes everything save specialities carriages, etc. The table d'hote wines are suffi- ciently good for ordinary drinking. Reduction of prices for a long stay. Casino. Calle San Fernando: French and English papers ; admission readily obtained upon a good introduction. Baths. Banos de Bonanza, 6r. ; sea- bathing during summer. Wines. Of Fondillol, Belemeta, Aloque, Malvasia de Alicante, Moscatel, very rich, some sweet, and all strong and heady. Post -Office. Plaza de Isabel II. Letters take four days to England. Telegraph. Office. Calle Gravina. Theatres. El Principal, Plaza del Teatro, and El Espanol, Calle de Liorna. Cafe's. Suizo ; Calle S. Fernando ; Comercio, on the Quay. Gobierno Militar. Calle Castahos. Gobierno Civil. Calle Gravina. N.B. Letters and parcels can often be despatched conveniently by certain lines of steamers : see advertisements, and inquire of agents. Climate. Alicante would justly de- serve to be ranked among the southern cities better suited to invalids. Its latitude is 38 18' 30" Paris, and 38 20' 41" N. longitude, 30' W. Greenwich. It is sheltered from the N. and W. winds by a high ridge of mountains, of which the highest is El Mongo. The air is warmer than at Valencia, but more dry. There is an occasionally marked, but not injurious, depression in the thermometer about nightfall, and that very dryness is somewhat tempered by the cool sea-breeze, to which the city, by its position, is favourably exposed. It is, nevertheless, exposed to all the violence of the S. and S.W. winds. There is a certain analogy between this climate and that of Nice, which is all in favour of Alicante. According to local and foreign doctors, this climate is very well suited to invalids sinking under a debilitated organism. Scrofu- lous and lymphatic persons, conva- lescents, and all those predisposed to consumption, but without any symp- toms, will derive great benefit from this balmy air. Meteorological observations made at the Observatory at Alicante. Average yearly barometrical height 76i.mil. o Average annual temperature . . 17. 5 cent. Temperature, maxima (July 10) . 37.2 ,, ,, minima (February 7) 0.6 ,, Number of rainy days in the year . 24 Quantity of rain fallen . . . 77 mil. 10 ALICANTE. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS MADE AT THE INSTITUTE OF ALICANTE (AN AVERAGE YEAR). Temperature of Air. Direction of Winds. 1 Months. Aver- age. Maxi- mum. Mini- mum. Oscil. N. NE. E. SE. s. SW. w. NW. q tity. b 6 10 January . February . 12.8 8.9 25.8 23-9 2.6 3-2 23.2 27.1 4 9 6 4 8 3 3 i 10 12 4 4 36-83 142.75 March . . 12.8 27.4 ** 31.2 3 7 4 4 i 2 10 2 11.94 April . . iS-i 28.2 2.1 26.1 7 10 2 4 4 I 8 Q 118.88 May . . 19.6 34-3 5.6 28.7 5 5 IO 4 2 5 3 11.69 Tune . . July . . 23.1 24.7 36.2 37-8 12.2 12.6 24.0 25.2 6 4 2 7 14 13 2 4 2 2 4 i I 2 1.27 43-69 August 25.0 38.4 14.4 24.0 12 6 II I i I 1.27 September 21.6 33-2 7.2 26.0 3 6 4 8 2 I I 5 3 1 6. oo October . 18.7 29.7 7 .8 21.9 3 ii 3 I 3 i S 55- != November 16.6 29-4 4.4 25.0 2 5 2 i I 9 5 5 I 1.78 Totals 35 76 40 66 22 40 14 79 Average annual atmospheric pressure . 760.08 ,, ,, temperature . . . 17.5 Number of rainy days . 35 Maximum temperature, August 29 . 38. 4 Quantity fallen . . 447. 32 Minimum temperature, March 10 . . 3.8 METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS MADE AT THE INSTITUTE OF ALICANTE (A DRY YEAR). Temperature of Air. Direction of Winds. .5 Months *B Quan- Aver- Maxi- Mini- Oscil. N. NE. F. SF.. S. SW. w. NW. 1 tity. age. Q December 13.0 25-3 i.i 24.2 2 2 i ii 4 II 5 14.74 January . February . 10.6 12.3 28.3 23-9 i.i i.i 29.4 22.8 5 2 4 4 I 4 I I i 3 5 6 4 2 10 6 4 i 14.49 6.86 March . . 14.6 27.9 o-3 27.6 6 4 4 3 7 I 6 3 7.12 April . . May . . 15-9 18.4 3i-i 33-7 4.0 4-7 27.1 29.0 3 7 12 7 7 4 6 2 2 3 2 I I 3 i 3 4 14.74 42.67 June . . July . . 22.8 25.1 34-4 37-1 "5 14.0 22.9 23.1 5 4 4 9 IO 10 8 3 2 2 i 3 i 2.79 August 26,3 37-9 15-0 22.9 7 4 14 6 September 23-9 34-8 "3 23-5 2 6 5 6 6 2 3 i 2.79 October . 21.8 33-i 8.9 24.2 12 6 i 2 6 1 3 S 26.42 November 16.6 26.7 5-i 21.6 2 5 6 2 4 2 9 3 27.94 Totals 22 72 53 57 39 50 16 56 Average pressure of atmosphere . . 760. 10 Average temperature, annual . . 18.4 Number of rainy days 30 Maximum temperature, August 9 . . 37.9 Quantity fallen . . 160.56 Minimum temperature, January 21 . 1. 1 8 ALICANTE. 'The grand objection to Nice is its dryness and the exciting and irritating nature of its atmosphere.' ('On the Climate of Nice,' by W. Farr, M.D., p. 10.) But if, in some diseases, these are found to aggravate the malady, in others, of an opposite tendency, they are productive of much good. The death- rate is about 1 in 32, varying consider- ably with the seasons. Elche (12 m. from Alicante, see p. 10) has not been as yet studied as a medical station. It might, nevertheless, be considered superior to Alicante in many respects, ^he sky is heavenly, the air pure and genial, and the forests of palms, orange-trees, pomegranates, and olives, are sufficient to indicate the temperature in winter. It is very dry, but not as much, perhaps, as Alicante, owing to constant and abundant irriga- tion, the Vinalap6 river, and the neigh- bourhood of the Pantano or lake, situated 3 miles N. There is also a cool shade under the palms ; but it must not be forgotten that it is exposed to the influ- ence of the E. and N. winds, which prevail especially during the winter, although at rare intervals. In the summer, intermittent fevers are not un- frequent (a consequence of emanations from the irrigated huerta) which more particularly seize the labourers, who stand all day in the water under a scorching sun. The houses are not com- fortable, certainly, but arm-chairs, car- pets, and doors and windows closing hermetically, are a useless luxury, nay, a nuisance, in these Oriental climates. Living is very cheap, fruit and vege- tables are sold for a song, and its prox- imity to Alicante renders supplies easily obtainable. There is, we do not deny, a total lack of society, amusements, and comforts, the absence of which is often felt by invalids ; but the real advantages of climate, combined with very great cheapness, are objects not to be despised, and must compensate for others. Doc- tors may safely send here all invalids suffering from catarrh, rheumatism, and consumption, accompanied by abundant expectoration, in the first stages of the malady, and in all cases where the irri- tability of the patient (especially in lym- phatic temperaments) cannot endure the more exciting air of the sea-side medical stations. General Description. Alicante is situated on the sea-side, extending along and around the spacious open bay, and at the foot of the lofty, bleak, chalky hill, crowned by an old and now much ruined castle. Its houses, low, gay, whitewashed, look picturesque from the steamer as one enters the port, and the background is formed by a striking range of mountains. The environs are bare, and the soil salinous. A few palms and fig-trees add to the Oriental appearance of the place. It is, on the whole, a very backward, uninteresting city, with little or no society save that of a few English merchants, old residents in the place, and the usual humdrum old-fashioned Spanish provincial tertulia (easy evening parties). There is a pretty good theatre, a plaza de toros, a fine market-place, opposite to Fonda del Vapor, and the town-hall has some sort of an appear- ance, but without any determined style or definable effect. The tobacco-manu- factory employs some 4000 women, many of whom are perfect types of the semi-Moorish Alicantina beauty. The Alameda is the fashionable walk. Out- side the town are two other promenades, the Alameda of San Francisco and that of Los Capu chinos. There are two pretty gardens, which should be visited rather by botanists than by amateurs accus- tomed to English or French gardens we mean the Jardin of Pinohermoso and that of Penacerrada. For permits (ad- mission), apply to the landlord of the hotel. ALICANTE. The Port is spacious, situated between Cabo de la Huerta on the N.E. and Cabo de Sta. Pola on the S., distant from each other S.W. and N.E. about 10 m. It is secure, and though large ships moor N. and S. , distant from J m. to 1 m. from shore (in from four to eight fathoms water), they are never driven from their moorings, however much they are exposed to all winds from E.N.E. to S. by W. , because the holding-ground is first-rate. The trade is not very active, although it has of late somewhat in- creased, from facilities being afforded to transport by the railway to Madrid. The principal export is raisins, which are mostly taken to England. The other chief exports are liquorice, brandy, wine, almonds, esparto goods and lead. The exportation of barilla formerly amounted to 100,000 cwt., but has now almost ceased from its having been superseded by artificial soda. The imports are, sugar, coffee, cotton and linen stuffs, coals and railway material. The value of English direct legitimate imports into Alicante amounts to about 300,000, the port being visited by an annual nett British tonnage of 80,000 tons. Ali- cante is a great smuggling centre, and the contrabandistas, those armed and bold free-traders of all times and climes, are very much looked up to, sympathised with, aided and overlooked by all here. An English company has been formed for melting and refining the rich argentiferous lead ores of Almagera and other parts of the province of Mur- cia. The schools for the lower classes are very few and not attended : crime is therefore frequent about 1 in 379 ; and according to statistical returns, of 847 brought for trial, 780 were able neither to read nor write, and the Valencian dialect, the old langue d'oc, is still chiefly spoken by the lower and many of the middle classes. Agriculture is very backward, and although the farmer has certainly to contend against drought, which often lasts for seven and nine months in the year, his ignorance and indolence prevent his alleviating this condition by making more pantanos, canals, wells, and by planting trees those hated enemies of the Spanish peasant. Sights. Church of San Nicolas de Bari Churches of Santa Maria and Sta. Clara The Castle Elche. Church of San Nicolas de Bari, the titular saint, 'el patron,' of Alicante, was built in 1616, in the Herrera style (Grseco-Roman). It is of very good pro- portions, well conceived and executed, but not completed, and ornamented with very bad taste. The church of Sta. Maria is very indifferent ; that of Sta, Clara was originally founded to receive the sacred sudario, 'one of the three napkins or kerchiefs with which the Veronica wiped our Saviour's face on his way to the Calvary.' It was brought from Borne in the 15th cen- tury, and its authenticity is undoubted by the Alicantinos, who hold it in great veneration. See, for more details, ' Di- sertacion historico-dogmatica sobre la sagrada Reliquia de la serenisima Faz,' etc. , by a Jesuit called Fabiani Murcia, 1763, 4to. The pictures of the Marquis del Angolfa, formerly well worthy of a visit, are now dispersed, owing to the death of the Marquis. Their value was, however, greatly overrated. They consisted of about 1000 pictures of Spanish and Dutch schools. The Italian paintings were nearly all of them copies ; but there were some good Snyders, and a good copy of Rubens's ' Deposition from the Cross,' at Antwerp. The best paint- ings of the Spanish school were the 'Good Shepherd,' by Orrente, a soi- disant Murillo, and a fine Virgin 10 ALICANTE. and Sleeping Saviour by Alonso Cano. Castle. To see it, apply with ca.rd to the Gobernador. The Castillo de Santa Barbara commands the town and bay ; its situation is good, but the con- tinued dilapidations to which it has been subject have rendered it almost useless for defence, and of no interest to the military tourist ; it is composed of four emplazamientos (plateaux), the highest of which overlooks the city, and is strong. It is about 400 ft. high. The castle of San Fernando crowns on the N. side the cerro (height) of Tosal, and defends that position which com- mands the fortress ; the Isla Plana, on the S. of the city, and distant 3J leagues from Cabo de Santa Pola, is 1180 varas long by 500 wide, and de- fended by the Torre de San Jose. Antiquities. There are no antiqui- ties collected at Alicante that we know of, although several persons possess coins, medals, etc. Alicante, never re- markable in history, is the ancients' Illice, erroneously ascribed to Elche, and has sometimes also been called Alona. The Lucentum which some au- thors mention as the former name of Alicante, was not this city, but one situated at Tusal de Manises, close to Alicante, where many ruins, coins, etc., have been found. The ' Cronica de la Ciudad de Alicante,' by Dr. Don Vic. Bendicho, MS. fol., in Acad. de la His- toria, D. 107, dated 1640 ; and 'Illice Ilustrada, ' begun by Maltes and finished by Lorenzo Lopez, both Jesuits MS., very scarce ; ' Lucentum, hoy Alicante,' proving that Lucentum was the origin of Tusal de Manises, by Pio de Saboya, Count of Lumiares, Valencia, 1780, 4to, with cuts ; ' De la Iglesia de Illice, hoy Elche,' by Florez, in his 7th vol. of *Esp. Sagrada ;' ' Recopilacion, ' etc. , by Sanz, MS., in Bib. Nac. (Coleccion Bohl de Fabcr). DIRECTORY. Consuls. Of England. Jasper "W. Cummings, Esq., Vice-Consul. United States. A. W. Leach, Esq., Consul ; John Leach, Esq., Vice-Consul. Aus- tria-Hungary. G. Raymunds, Vice- Consul. Belgium. H. Carey, Consul. Italy. G. Ravello, Consul. Norway and Sweden. P. R. Daklander, Vice- Consul. Russia. A. Faes, Consul. Holland. A. Salvetti, Consul. No foreign doctor. Bankers. Cummings Brothers (suc- cessors of Jasper White and Co.) ; agents for several English and Ameri- can banks. Succursale of the Bank of Spain. Diligence Offices. For Alcoy, Villena, Crevillente, Elche, Torrevieja, etc., Calles Mendez Nunez and Calatrava. EXCURSION TO ELCHE. A visit to this town of most Oriental character, situated amid a forest of palms, should by no means bo omitted ; indeed, it is worth a journey to Alicante. The distance is 4 leagues (12 miles) from the town, and 2 leagues (6 miles) from the sea. The drive is charming ; for though the country is flat and never green, there is a com- pensating novelty and picturesqueness about the ruddy soil, the clumps of stately palms and fig-trees that shade the doors and avenues to Tangerine- looking houses. The old diligence services are now superseded by the direct railway between Alicante and Murcia, whereby a long day may be spent at Elche the second station out at a cost of 5 pesetas, 1st class ; 3.50c., 2d class ; and 2.50c., 3d. For those who prefer to drive, how- ever, there are also small omnibuses and tartanas, that may be hired for a conventional price ; time, from 2 J to ALICANTE EXCURSIONS. 11 3i hours, according to state of the road, which is not good. Elche, some say, was originally the ancient Illice, but according to others, and with more likelihood, it was merely an Arab village, whose name in Arabic would mean tornadizo (whirlwind, and also turncoat, deserter), (see 'Tesorode la Lengua Castellana,' by Dr. Sebast. de Covarrubias, etc. It is situated close to the ravine formed by the Vina- Iap6, which runs through it, and which called into existence this charming oasis in the desert, as the Arabs used its waters with their usual ingenuity for the irrigation of the huertos and palms. The works to insure this irri- gation to the plains around Elche are a pantano (marsh), situated about 3 miles N. of the town, and placed across a gorge of the Vinalapo water ; the wall that shuts up this gorge is 68 ft. 3 in. high, 34 ft. thick at its base, and 26 ft. at the summit, thus forming a terrace of 228 miles long, from one hill to another. The town is long and clean, the houses whitewashed, of one or two storeys ; the roofs flat, with few openings on the streets, and most with a patio or open court in the interior. The costume of the people, their fea- tures and attitudes, the absence of females in the streets, save on holidays, the lofty stately palms, which, like so many jets of verdure, spring up above the roofs between the edifices, are all Oriental. The only good inn is Posada Nueva del Sol, where decent beds and very cheap living are to be ob- tained, coupled with civility. The population is about 20,000. Sights. There is little to see in the town itself. The Church of Sta. Maria has a very fine portico ; the interior is well proportioned and not over-orna- mented. The tabernacle is made of precious marbles, with an effigy of the Virgin of the Assumption, which is held in great veneration. It is often dressed in beautiful rich mantos, has several fine jewels, and is even a landed proprietor, for the finest palms are seen in her orchards, called * Huertos de la Virgen,' over the entrance of which is her crown and monogram. The pro- duce goes to pay for the dresses and candles ; and the priests and sextons, who take care of the image, have mass said, and celebrate unciones on her special festivals, etc. Do not omit ascending the belfry (companario) ; the height is not great, though the steps are much worn and slippery. The view is very pleasing. On the one side is seen, in the distance, the lagoon, or albufera of Elche, which is smaller than that of Valencia, but equally well stored with fish and game ; on the other are the Huertos de la Virgen and palm grounds, the tawny barren plains all round, and below the many hundred terraces, each a perfect picture. From this is also seen the Calandura, now a prison, once an alcazar, whose tower is crowned by two bronze figures larger than life, representing a man and a child, which, by hidden combinations with the clock, are made to strike the hours and the quarters. Palm Trees. Now proceed to visit the gardens close by ; the date-tree (Phoenix dactylifera, Linn.) is called here palmera, and the fruit ddtil. To prosper, they require this sandy soil, well watered, and the warm genial atmosphere ; they grow very well, too, near the sea, provided it be about the same latitude, and are an importation probably from that portion of Barbary where they abound most, and which is therefore called Biledulgerid. In Hol- land's 'Plinie,' b. xiii. c. 4, it is said 'Date-trees love a light and sandie ground, and specially (for the most part) if it stand much upon a veine of nitre besides.' The Arabs sow the 12 ALICANTE EXCURSIONS. kernel about the end of March, but they and the Spaniards prefer multi- plying them from the shoots taken from the roots, or just under the leaves; they are sheltered from the sun, and watered often until they have taken root. This mode has the great advan- tage of obtaining female plants (which are the only ones that yield fruit), as a few males are sufficient to fecundate a whole forest. When, about April and May, the male flowers are blooming, the labourers cut these off, and shake the dust (pollen or farina) over the females, which are thus impregnated. This artificial fecundation, which is now being experimented upon in France, to extend it to corn, etc., is not a new discovery, and Theophrastus mentions it in his * History of Plants, ' while Pliny leaves little or no doubt about it. This would show that the ancients were cognisant of the existence of sexes in plants long before Linnaeus and others. The best dates are the yellowish- coloured ones. They ripen about No- vember, when they hang in rich golden clusters all round the summit. It is curious to watch the dexterous hor- telanos (gardeners), when they gather the fruit, reaching the top of the branchless trunk by means of a rope, which they pass loosely round their waists and the trunk, resting on it all their body in a horizontal position, while their bare feet, pressing the tree, tighten the rope, and thus leave their hands free. The produce is abun- dant, averaging 4 to 8 arrobas yearly (though some exceed 15 and 20), which are sold from 8r. to 40r. each. The trunk is often used for light timber, and is very hard, firm, and almost incor- ruptible. There is scarcely a part of the tree that has not some use, although the Arabs derive greater utility from them than the Spaniards. The male leaves or palms on the summit are tied together from April to June, and blanched, as gardeners say; that is, by this continued compression, they lose, so to speak, the circulation of their sap and become whitish. They are then cut, and sold separately on Palm Sunday some twisted into shapes of crowns, with ribbons, etc. and when blessed by the priest are hung up at the balconies and over the doors, and taken about on Palm Sun- day processions. Pilgrims, formerly, as is known, were holy travellers, who visited one parti- cular shrine and then returned home, but the palmer made it his sole pro- fession to visit several shrines, and lived on charity ; and as Jerusalem was one of them, they used, once there, to make a palm staff and go with it thence about the world. The defective palm -leaves are sent to cigar manufactories to be converted into cigarettes often mistaken, together with the maize leaf, for the genuine Guatemala pajillas. The annual crop averages Palm-leaves sold on Palm Sunday, 2000 ; dates, 14,000. This old Catholic custom is tending to wear off. Visit the palm-plantation of one of the most intelligent palm-growers at Elche, whose name is almost as long as the highest of his trees Don Gaspar Bo- tella de Pomares. He has the best nursery here, and sells them, when of 3 to 5 years old, for about lOr. to 12r. each, journey to Alicante included, whence they can be sent to Marseilles by Lopez's steamers for a trifle. Cotton is grown here, but in small and insigni- caiit quantity. 13 ALMADEN Province of Ciudad Real. Diocese of Toledo 7431 inhab. Koutes, Conv. 1. From Madrid, by the Madrid and Badajoz line ; two trains a day. Book throughout ; time, about 12 hours. Fares, 1st cl., Pes. 30.85 ; 2dcl.,Pes. 23.15; 3dcl.,Pes. 15.45. A slow and uncomfortable journey, passing by Toledo and Ciudad Real. 2. From Valencia, Alicante and Murcia, vid Alcazar, Manzanares and Ciudad Real ; two trains per day. A cross-country and slow journey, but may be taken en route for Lisbon. 3. From Cordoba, by rail through Almorchon, one train per day in about 9 hrs. ; or riding roads not very good, and accommodation by the way bad. Route : Cordova to A Imaden, riding, 1 8 leagues, 3 days. Leagues Cordova to Villarta . .6 Villanueva del Duque . . 5 Viso de los Pedroches Santa Eufemia Almaden The ride is over a wild country, in- teresting alike to botanist and miner- alogist. Sleep 1st night at Villarta ; 2d night sleep at Viso de los Pedroches. The first day's ride is through the sierras and pine-forests. At Viso there is abundant mica-slate, followed by granite. There is a bridle-road from Almaden to Seville, by Fuente de Can- tos, Aracena, and Rio Tinto ; distance about 50 leagues. Inn. The Fonda de Leopoldo (in- different). Get, before you leave for Almaden, letters of introduction to the superintendents of the mines, and lodge in some private house. The village is perfectly uninteresting ; a good hos- pital and several schools, mining and others. Quicksilver Mines. The quicksil- ver mines of Almaden are considered to be the oldest known in Europe, as affording most curious matter of in- formation to science, and, what is more, as the richest in the world. They are deemed inexhaustible, and are a source of great revenue to the State, to which they belong. The principal vein or flow actually worked is about 25 ft. deep, and is found amid a soil composed of rocks of quartz and strata of schist, virgin quicksilver being also found in pyrites and hornstein. A depth of 315 metres has been reached. The ore yields, on an aver- age, 10 per cent quicksilver. The total produce in 1887 was 44,000 frascoes (about 1,500,000 kilos), ex- ceeding by 30 per cent the produce of the great Californian mines. The quicksilver is nearly all consigned to Messrs. Rothschild in London. The mines employ about 3500 hands. The work goes on night and day. The arched stone galleries and the wells called tornos are well deserving of close attention ; the machinery is not worthy of the rest. Books of Reference. 1. Minas de Almaden, ' by Casimo de Prado ; Ma- drid, 1846. 2. Plans and Maps of the Filones (veins) of Almaden, in Hoppensack's * Ueber den Berghau in Spanien.' 1796. 3. * Details Geolog. sur Almaden, par Ezquerra del Bayo,' Bull, of French Geol. Soc., vol. x. p. 107 (1839). 4. 'Sobre las Minas de Almaden,' by Rafael Cabonillas in ' Anales de Minas,' vol. i. 1858. 5. * Diccionario, ' etc. by PascuaJ Madoz, etc., vol. ii. p. 21. 14 ALMERIA, Capital of province of same name. Population 45,030. Routes, Conv. 1. From Granada by Guadix ; distance, 25J leagues. There is a small diligence called a gondola, which holds eight people, and performs that journey in 3 days, stopping at Guadix for the first night, and at Yenta de Dona Maria. For the road to Guadix, see Murcia. The road is very bad, especially in winter, when it is often impracticable ; it is also uninteresting, though the villages have all soft, roman- tic names of Moorish origin, such as Alboladuz,' Alcubillas, Gador, Benaha- dux. For those who prefer riding we subjoin another itinerary. Granada to Aimer la, riding", distance, 25^ leagues, 3 days, or 2 long ones. Leagues To Fargue .... \ Huetor de Santillan . . i Cruz del Puerto . . \\ Venta del Molinillo ... i Diezma .... ii Venta del Rio .... ij Guadix ..... 3! Sleep. Ventorillo del Barranquillo . 3 Ocana ..... 2 Alcubillas . 4 Sleep. Gador ..... 1} Benahadux .... 3 Almeria . . . . , i 2. From Murcia. Unless proceeding to Guadix to wait for and go by the above No. 1 gondola, we know of no direct service ; if riding, stop at Baza, and go direct across to join the No. 1 road. 3. From Alicante and Cartagena, Cadiz, and Gibraltar, there are occa- sional steamers that touch at Almeria ; they are advertised in local papers, and may be averaged about once a fortnight : time by steamer from Cartagena, 12 hrs ; from Malaga, about the same. Inns. Grand Hotel Tortosa, Paseo del Principe ; fair and reasonable ; Vapor ; Malaquena, inferior. General Description. Almeria, the Al-Mariyat of the Arabs, is situated on the sea-shore and in a valley formed by two hills crowned by a castle and an alcazaba ; it is surrounded by high walls of most picturesque appearance that extend from the sea to the hill ; then follow the undulating ground, and from the valley ascend to the other hill and back to the city. These walls, with their cubos or towers, are an excellent specimen of mediaeval and Moorish mili- tary architecture and engineering ; the forts still subsist, though the Al-Kazaba is in ruins, and the Torreon del Homenaje, that overlooks yawning precipices, has better escaped the unrelenting hatred of the rival Goth and of time, and was even repaired in the 15th century. Its two Gothic facades are decorated with the escutcheons of the Catholic kings, and it contains several low and sombre halls and corridors with miradores. The province of Almeria is not very prosperous, and yet the soil is rich, and yields plentiful crops of maize and corn. At Adra the sugar-cane abounds ; at Albanchez and Rioja excellent oranges and lemons are produced, and many varieties of American fruits grow almost spontaneously in the plains around Al- meria itself. Several very rich mines are found in the different sierras which intersect it in every direction. In that of Gata, E. of Almeria, jaspers, agates, basaltic banks. In Sierra Nevada, "W. of the province, are the celebrated quar- ries of Macael marble. In Sierra Ca- brera may be found antimony, malachite, gypsum, magnetic iron, etc. The Sierra Almagrera, E. of province, teems with silver. The climate is proverbially mild, and winter is not known, except in the ridge of hills to N., where snow often falls, and the cold is strongly felt. The harbour is fine and safe, vessels of heavy tonnage being able to load alongside the mole, which is being rapidly extended. There are several projected lines of railway, but none in prospect of completion. The chief exports consist of grapes (about 800,000 barrels), esparto (10,000 tons), refined lead (2000 tons), calamine (300 tons), iron ore (8000 tons), and sulphur (2000 tons). There is little here to interest the ordinary tourist. The chief sight is The Cathedral. This edifice, of about the end of the 15th century, par- takes of the character of the fortifica- tions ; four massive and once formidably built and armed towers are placed at its angles ; the apse has the shape of a polygon, and its walls are crowned with battlements. In 1517 the warlike chap- ter rebuilt the military works, if they may be so called, of the cathedral, spending 20, 000 marvedis upon them ; and when, on September 22, 1522, an earthquake had battered the whole edi- fice, they lost no time, and spared neither money nor workmen, in repairing their walls. The principal fa9ade is placed between two buttresses . or pilasters, that bear on their basements alto-relievo angels of indifferent execution, with capitals composed of mascarons and jarros. Between them runs a gallery with arabesque open work ; the portal is effective and of quadrangular shape, much and ill ornamented ; the second ALMERIA. 15 or upper stage is ornamented with an imperial escutcheon, the statues of St. Peter and St. Paul, and a Virgin in a niche. The interior belongs to the period of Gothic Decline, the capitals of the pillars being almost Corinthian in style. In a chapel situated in the apse is a rich marble tomb of a great bene- factor of this church, called Fray Diego de Villola. It is on the whole of meagre appearance. The stalls are the work of Juan de Orca, and the date 1558-60 ; they are elaborately sculptured, but without much skill or taste. This church has no definite style, but is rather a medley of several. The other churches, San Domingo and San Pedro, are uninteresting. The Barrio de los Huertos is the most populous. The promenade on the muelle or jetty is pleasant, and the view from it of the port and bay picturesque. DlEECTOKY. Brit. Fice- Consul. Ph. Barron, Esq. U.S.A. Consular Agent. H. F. Fischer, Esq. Post Office. Plaza de la Glorieta. Telegraph Office. Plaza de San Se- bastian. Cafe's. ElSuizo; Universal; Cervece- rialnglesa; all on the Paseo del Principe. Casino and Ateneo, with foreign papers. Visitors admitted upon mem- ber's introduction. Theatres. El Principal ; Novedades, Paseo del Principe ; Apolo, Calle Cal- deron ; Calderon, Calle san Pedro. For details of the mining industries of the province, see the 'Boletin Oficial de Minas. ' 16 ANDALUSIA. Pop. 382,652 392,100 361,553 200,000 The kingdom of Andulasia, the espe- cially favoured land, La Tierra de Maria Santisima, is now divided into eight provinces, viz. Pop. Sevilla . 515,011 Cordoba Malaga . 505,010 Jaen. . Granada 485,346 Almeria. Cadiz . 426,499 Huelva . Total . . 3,268,171 All these provinces are under the judi- cial jurisdiction of the Audiencias of Seville and Granada, and ecclesiastically under the suffragans of Seville and Granada. They constitute a capitania general, whose centre is Seville, and which is subdivided into as many comandancias generales as there are civil goUernos or provinces. Climate. This is varied. Granada and Honda are, from their altitude and proximity to the snow-capped moun- tains, well suited for the summer months, whilst the genial temperature of Malaga, Seville, Cordova, etc., makes them the fittest residences for winter. On the whole, the climate much re- sembles that of the N. and portions of the "W. coasts of Africa, from which South Andalusia was probably severed at Gibraltar by some great geological convulsion. Suffice it to state that the palm, the sugar-cane, orange, citron, are among the commonest plants ; that corn and barley are reaped when they are just about to flower elsewhere, and these examples, with many others, will convince our readers, if they are not already aware of the fact, that in climate Andalusia has been most especially favoured by Providence. The cities are all of very great interest to artist, painter, ecclesiologist, and antiquary, for all this country is still full of the most glorious monuments of taste, grandeur, and engineering skill which the Moors erected during their sway of seven centuries. Seville and its alcazar, cathedral, and giralda ; Granada and the Alhambra ; Cordova and its wonderful mosque, cannot fail to attract close attention and untiring admiration. As for the picturesque, Ronda and Alhama, Sierra Nevada, the Alpuj arras, etc., will suffice. The people themselves are not the least interesting feature in Andalusia ; they are the Irish, the Gascons, the Athenians of Spain ; with them all is gay, light, wit, love, dolcefarniente ; life is pleasure, the bull-fight, pelar la pava, puff the ci- garrito. Go therefore to study this type where it is found in all its unsophisticated raciness. Repair to the fairs which are annually held at Mairena and Ronda, where you will see the majeza in all its glory, and scenes will present themselves worthy of antique vases and bassi-relievi the song in the cortijo, the dance on the hera, and many others. They have, withal, their dark sides of character exaggeration, superstition, insurmount- able laziness, and middling courage when massed together ; but their gene- rosity, verging on ostentation, and their gentlemanly manners, are remarkable. However low in station, the Andaluz may be * canaille, ' but he cannot be vulgar ; for that is never to be found where there is a blue heaven, a bright glowing sun, no starving, and a guitar. The beauty of the women is proverbial. In a word La terra molle e lieta, e dilettosa, Simili a se gli abitator produce. The excellent methods of irrigation and agriculture introduced by the Arabs have been neglected, and here are seen despoblados or wastes, some of 2 or 3 leagues in extent, where not a house, ANDALUSIA. 17 not a beast or tree, save the lentisk and palmito, are to be seen. The principal rivers are the Guadalquivir (the Baetis Olivifera of Martial), which has for tri- butaries the Sanlucar, Biar, Huelva, and the Genii ; the Guadaira, which the summer heat dries up every year ; the Gaudalete, which flows through the Sierra de Ronda into the Bay of Cadiz in an almost parallel direction to the Guadalquivir, which rises in the Sierra Nevada, and whose course is of about 400 miles. The mountains are the Sierra Nevada, Sierra Morena (the Montes Mariani of the ancients), and their ramifications. The mineral wealth of these provinces is very great, and Tarshish was the Eldorado to which Solomon used to send his ships for gold and silver. It was called also Turde- tania before the Carthaginians founded colonies on all its shores on the Medi- terranean. Tartessus is indifferently applied to Cadiz or Gadir (Avienus), to several other cities, and even to the Bffitis of Strabo (p. 148). The Tarshish of Scripture was, according to Betham, Bochart, Florez, and others, applied to all the S.W. region from the Guadal- quivir to the Straits. The Romans drove away the Carthaginians, and it became a senatorial province after the capture of Seville by Julius Csesar (43 B.C.) Under the Romans, the cities of Ecija, Seville, Cordova, Cadiz, Italica, etc., rose to great importance. At the downfall of the Roman Empire, the Vandals, on their way to Africa, sacked the cities and burned the crops. Baetica then took the name of Vandalusia, which was preserved by the Arabs when they, in their turn, invaded it ; though some authors derive the name * Belad-al- Andalosh,' from the 'Land of the West.' It then became an empire called the Kali- fate of Cordova. At the downfall of the Ummeyah dynasty, Andalusia was di- vided into the kingdoms of Granada, Jaen, Seville, and Cordova, of which the ^uruuvii Seville JN.. z uays. R. Jerez . R. Cadiz . R. Gibraltar St., riding Ronda Riding Malaga Ride &d., or r. & d. Alhama Ride Granada Ride. Jaen . Madrid D R. *d T our ) fro nG braltar a-votding the r de. Cadiz . St. i day to vis t it. Jerez . Seville. R-, i R., 3 days Cordova R. 2 days Andujar R. i day Jaen . Granada R. i D. 5 days Malaga R., i day Gibraltar St. first was the last to fall into the hands of the Catholic kings, who added these kingdoms to that of Castile. Travelling is easy now. We suggest the following routes : i st Tour, coming from Madrid spring or autumn. Cordova R. : This portion of Spain may thus be easily visited, and at the seaports and Seville the constant flow of English visitors has introduced comforts. The finest Moorish monuments are at 1st, Granada ; 2d, Cordova ; 3d, Seville. The finest churches are at 1st, Seville ; 2d, Granada ; 3d, Jaen ; 4th, Malaga. The most picturesque scenery at 1st, road between Gibraltar and Ronda ; 2d, road between Malaga and Granada, by Alhama, and also by Loja, Lanjaron, the Bay of Cadiz, Motril, and Gibraltar. With respect to mines, forests, and agriculture, we must draw attention to the copper-mines of Rio Tinto, the quicksilver at Almaden, phosphate of lime at Logrosan, lead at Linares, marbles of Macael and Pur- chena, lead at Adra, iron at Marbella ; the forests of Segura, the sugar-cane plantations of General Concha between Marbella and Gibraltar, the vines of Jerez, the raisin-making at Malaga, the salinas of Cadiz. The dress is most picturesque, but too well known to ne<;d description. 18 ARAGON. (THE SPANISH PYRENEES.) This former Reino (kingdom) has been divided into the three provinces of Zaragoza, Huesca, and Teruel, which sum up a population of 880, 643 inhabit- ants. Its nucleus was the former king- dom of Sobrarbe (Sobre-Arbe), which, situated in the heart of the Spanish Pyrenees, occupied a space of 12 leagues long by 10 wide. To this and to the mountains of Asturias the vanquished Goths fled for refuge. Here in time several petty states arose, the prize of a bold chieftain ; and in the llth century Sancho II., whose sway now extended over Aragon, which had grown out and around Sobrarbe and Navarra, gave these separately to his sons, one of whom, Ramiro, thus became the first king. It was in the 12th century annexed by mar- riage to Catalonia, and was governed by its counts until 1469, when the mar- riage took place of its king, Ferdinand the Catholic, with Isabella of Castile. The Aragonese have been remarkable in history for their love of independence and T $^yic liberty, and a law in the fiigr.v.^pf Sobrarbe was to the effect that * wnenever the king should infringe the f ueros, any other might be elected in his stead, even should he be a Pagan. ' The authority of the king was limited by that of the justicia, or high magistrate, named by the people to watch over their liberties, and who was the link between the king and the popular assemblies. Aragon is a most fertile country, though sadly depopulated. Rivers in- tersect it in all directions, and there are plains of considerable beauty around several large towns. Corn, barley, the olive, and the vine, are much and very successfully cultivated. The woollens of Venasque and Albarracin are good, and the silkworm has of late been very successfully introduced. The mineral riches are not very important. The principal mining districts are : Teruel sulphur. Torres, Remolinos salt. Grustau, Graus coals. Jaca, Canfranc, Hecho marbles. Alcaniz alum. Cetrillas, Daroca jet Almoaja, Torres, Noguera copper. Calcena, Venasque, Bielsa silver. Zoma, Venasque, Salient lead. The Aragonese are a cold, serious, obstinate, daring race. There is little or no industry, letters and arts are nei- ther studied nor practised ; they are solely agriculturists, soldiers, sports- men, smugglers, and guerrilleros^ar ex- cellence. The Spanish Pyrenees are to the traveller one of the many hidden treasures in Spain, for they have seldom been trodden save by the smuggler, the flying Carlist, and the buck or izard. The scenery is very grand, the plants met with of great variety, and some species little known. There is good sport and angling ; the bear, the wolf, and the cabra montesa or izard (ibex), abound. Trout and salmon thrive unmolested, and there is here a virgin land alike for geologists, alpen- stocks, and artists. The best season to visit the Spanish Pyrenees is summer and spring. The latter must be avoided by mountaineers, on account of the avalanches. The principal rivers are the Jiloca, Jalon, Cinca, Gallega. The cities in Aragon have no very great interest for the artist, and Aragon has produced but very few, and mostly indifferent, architects, sculptors, and painters. The finest churches are at Zaragoza and Huesca; the cities are poor in monu- ARAGON. 19 ments, and those of little importance. Zaragoza nevertheless has a great cachet of the 16th and 17th centuries. We shall advise the general tourist to limit his visit to Zaragoza, and, maybe, Hu- esca ; the ecclesiologist can extend his investigations to Jaca, Teruel, Daroca, Barbastro. The railroad crosses the most interesting portion of Aragon ; the carreteras, or high roads, are very ill kept ; the mountain -passes, often im- practicable, requiring a guide ; and ac- commodations limited to hovels and miserable possadas (inns). For routes across the Pyrenees and mountain- passes, heights, etc., see Zaragoza and Barcelona, and Jaca, Venasque, Can- franc, Barbastro, Huesca, etc. The Pyrenean range in its largest extent stretches from Cape Creux on the Mediterranean to Cape Finisterre on the Galician coast, a distance of about 650 miles, comprising the Astu- rian portions, as well as isthmian part of the chain, which latter forms the mountain -wall dividing Spain from France ; the mean altitude of this is 6000 ft., the maximum height is at- tained almost midway where the Pic de Nethou rises 11,168 ft. above the sea. Between this and the Pic du Midi d'Ossau, 70 m. W., are the high- est peaks of the chain, many of them above 10,000 ft, and four or five little inferior to Pic de Nethou. From a comparative survey of the chain on the Spanish and French sides, it will be seen that while four-fifths of the waters that rise on the French side have their outpouring in the Atlantic Ocean, as tributaries of the Adour and Garonne, all the streams on the Spanish side are received by the Ebro and flow into the Mediterranean. The highest moun- tains on the Spanish frontier are Monte Perdido (Mont Perdu), 10,994ft.; the granite peaks of Posets, 11,046 ft. ; and Nethou, 11,168 ft. From the higher mountains spurs are thrown out on either side 20 or 30 m. towards the plain. There are but five carriage- roads across the chain, all lying to the extreme E. or W. The gaps (puertos), with their French equivalents, coZ, brfche, hourque, etc. , in the main wall between the two countries are generally higher than the ordinary Alpine passes, and present exceedingly wild andgrand scenery ; the cirques or orles, large natural rocky basins, have a peculiar beauty not to be found in the Alps ; but on the Spanish side, being destitute of snow, by reason of the steeper de- clivity on this side, they do not present the same aspect with those on the French side. The scenery, on the whole, together with the dress of the peasants, the style of houses and churches, the botany, etc., tend to establish a curious but real contrast between the two sides. There is better sport in the Spanish Pyrenees ; and the mineral-springs, of which Panticosa is the most celebrated, are perhaps supe- rior to those issuing on the French side; but the want of communications, the wretched accommodation at the etablisse- ments, and absence of the m\; 'vMnary comforts, are all so many drav\ '"La to a journey through the Spanish Pyre- nees. We have at * Barcelona ' enu- merated the most important routes from the French Pyrenees on that side into Cataluna, and describe at Zara- goza those which comprise the main routes leading to Aragon and Navarre ; the former therefore treating of the E. , and the latter of the W. range. The ex- cursions do not usually exceed four days. The best and safest guides to con- sult, and from which, besides personal experience, we have derived the above information, are Dr. Lambron's excel- lent and detailed work on the * Pyre- nees of Luchon ' ; the portable, concise, and most practical ' Guide to the Pyre- 20 ARANJUEZ. nees,' which was written especially for the use of mountaineers by Chas. Packe, Esq., with maps, etc. ; Joanne's 'Itine- raire Descriptif et Hist, des Pyrenees ;' 'Souvenirs (Tun Montagnard' (1858-88), by Count Henry Russell, Pau, 1888. Dress or Costume of the Aragonese. It is not unlike the Valencian, and differs from any other in Spain. The men wear knee-breeches, generally of the common cotton velvet called pana, ornamented about the pockets and ex- tremities with filigree buttons and old medios reales in silver, blue woollen stockings and sandals. The upper man is clad in a black velvet waistcoat, which is a substitute for a coat or jacket, decorated also with filigree but- tons, and very short, so as to show the wide silk or cotton red or vivid blue faja, which is a whole sac de voyage, containing and concealing cigars, na- vajas, money, etc. The slouched hat is not often worn, and a coloured ker- chief is fastened like a band or diadem round their foreheads, leaving the upper portion alfresco ; the mantas in which they are most gracefully draped are of various colours, white streaked with blue and black being much worn. The women's dress is not nearly so pictur- esque nor complicated ; it is very like that of the Catalonian women. Ob- serve their antique ear-rings, crosses, rosaries, etc. Books of Reference. 1. * Anales de la Corona de Aragon,' by Ger. Zurita, Chronista del Reino, Zaragoza, Bermoz, 1562, fol. Two other editions of 1610 and 1669-70, found in several public libraries. It is the most important work ever written on Aragon, full of erudition, free from bombast, excelling in the selection of the most trustworthy sources. 2. Argensola's excellent sequel to Zurita's 'Anales, Zaragoza, Lanaja,' 1630, fol. The author is a standard classical Spanish historian. The in- formation is reliable. 3. ' Historia de la Economia Politica de Aragon, ' by Asso del Rio, Zaragoza, Magallon, 1798. Contains curious and accurate information respecting the ancient legislation, wealth, etc., of this reino. ARANJUEZ. Prov. of Madrid Population, 8000. (1884.) Routes. From Madrid by rail ; time, 1 hr. by mail train, and 2 hrs. by ordinary train. It is on the line from Madrid to Alicante and Valencia ; distance, 30^ m. ; fares, 1st el., Pes. 5.65 ; 2d, Pes. 4.40 ; 3d, Pes. 2.70. Six trains a day, and one or two more dur- ing the Jornada (the season when the Court resides there). From Toledo, distance, 42 kil. ; fares, 1st cl., Pes. 4.35; 2d, Pes. 3.35; 3d, Pes. 1.95; awkward delays at Castillejo. From Alicante and Valencia, dist. 407 kil., and 444 kil. Hotels, Houses. At station, a mid- dling buffet ; Fonda (Hotel) de las cuatro Naciones, formerly de la Regina, kept by this well-known, good-hu- moured, and extortionate hostess. The situation is not good, as to reach the gardens the square is to be crossed, which is no joke when the thermometer is 80 Fahr. Rooms decent ; cooking pretty good ; private cabinets. Fonda de Embajadores, kept by Suarez, a con- cierge at the Palace of Aranjuez, situ- ated in a street, but very close to gar- dens ; clean and cool in summer ; fire-places in winter ; a restaurant ; civil people ; charges moderate. Fonda do los Milaneses contiguous ; view on the gardens. There are houses to let during the season. Hired Carriages. Caleches, very good, with two horses ; a stand close to the latter Fonda ; fares, 16r. the first hr., 14r. the second, and following ; lOr. the course, if within the village or from station, where there are omnibuses also during the summer only. Post-Office. Open from 7 to 11.30 A.M., and from 7 to 11 P.M. Letters delivered at 9 A.M. and 10 P.M., and an extra delivery during Queen's stay at 12 A.M. Letters leave at 6 A.M. and 9.15 A.M., and an extra ditto at 3 P.M. Telegraph at the station. General Description. The illustri- ous and wealthy Order of Santiago held several large estates situated on the banks of the Tagus, of which the finest was an aldea, called Aranzuel or Aran- zueje, happily placed at the confluence of the Tagus and Jarama. Trees were planted, vines and olives cultivated, and near the spot now occupied by the palace, a villa, partaking of both the convent and the castle, was erected in the 15th century, by the Maestre of the Order, Suarez de Figueroa. "When the Maestranza was incorporated to the crown, it became the temporary summer residence of the Catholic kings, and the Isla was a very favourite resort of Queen Isabella in her promenades. Charles V. improved the palace, purchased land and kept it up for shooting. Under Philip II. several additions were made by the architects Toledo and Herrera. The marshes of Ontigola were con- verted into a lake now pompously called a mar (a sea) ; and it was a pleasant and a regal residence as far back as 1575. Two consecutive fires destroyed the greater portion of the palace, when Philip V. caused, in 1727, a new set of buildings to be erected in imitation of the Louis XI Y. style, and ARANJUEZ. 21 the older and remaining portions be- came absorbed in the new works. One Pedro Caro was the architect of this Spanish Fontainebleau, which is as inferior to its model (though even this one is no gem) as La Granja (excepting the gardens) is below Ver- sailles. Fernando VI. improved on it, and Charles III. added the two salient aisles at the extremities of the principal The village was built after an impres- sion de wy age of Marquis Grimaldi, who had just returned from his embassy to the Hague. It was a ludicrous idea to apply Dutch architecture to a Spanish climate, and the effect is curious, cold, and unpleasant. The streets are per- fectly straight, very wide, and treeless, and formed by miserable houses, all on the same plan, two storeys, small win- dows without shutters, and low roofs. The desertion of Aranjuez by the Court, in favour of La Granja, has deprived the place of what little life it used at times to possess. Several people have recently built villas around or close to the gardens, the best being that of Senor Salamanca, the Spanish Hudson, who made the first railway in Spain (that of Aranjuez). The villas of Marshal Narvaez, Count of Oriate, Marquis of Miraflores, are also lions of the place, but not worth the trouble of seeing. The only sights here are : The Palace. Apply for permit to the Sehor Intendente del Palacio Real, whose office is in the long line of outer buildings close by the palace. But if the visitor is staying in one of the hotels, the landlord will save all trouble. Fee to porter who shows the palace, from lOr. to 20r. The principal facade is the best, and is not wanting in good proportions and effect. The facade towards the parterre is something be- tween a poorhouse in Holland and a 22 ARANJUEZ. convent or fabrik. The situation is charming, as it is surrounded by regal avenues of stately elms and sycamores, at the confluence of the Tagus and Jarama, which form small islands here and there, clothed with trees, a fine cas- cade boiling down close under the win- dows. The interior is very indifferent, and the furniture, numberless clocks and candelabra, belong to the stiff un- meaning Greco-Roman style, adopted by Charles IV. and Ferdinand VII. There are a few pictures by Jordan, as the Spaniards call Lucca Giordano, alias Lucca Fa Presto ; a series of pictures representing scenes from the story of the Prodigal Son, Orpheus and Apollo, Bathsheba and Judith, by Conrado Bayeu ; several frescoes by Mengs, Amiconi, and other worthies of the worst period of Spanish painting. There is, nevertheless, a fine Titian in the chapel, representing the Annunci- ation of the Virgin, which the master gave to Charles V. The Gabinete de la China is the most elegant boudoir that could be dreamed of in Belgravia ; the walls, doors, ceilings, are all fitted up with Capo di Monte porcelain, in high relief. This gem was placed here by Charles III. The colours, composition, and execution are wonderful ; the artist, Joseph Gricci. It is dated 1762. There are two rooms in the Alhambraic style. In the queen's despacho there is a good Teniers, and her toilet-room has some mosquettine and large mirrors. Casa del Labrador. A special per- mit to see this other palace, to be ob- tained as before. |^r A silver key opens all these gates and doors. This farm- house, as the name implies, is an affected modesty, for it is nothing but a palace, and, though small, is better fur- nished than the larger one ; but, unlike the Escorial Cell, which is a suite of stately rooms, this Cottage is a series of boudoirs a Petit Trianon, built by Charles III., and worthy of a Pom pa dour. The ceilings are all painted by Zacarias Velasquez (not the great man), Lopez, an R. A., Maella, etc. The walls of the back staircase are painted with scenes and personages of the time of Charles I. ; the dress of the period and other details are the only interesting feature. On the top is figured a balcony, on which are leaning the handsome wife and children of the painter, Zac. Velas- quez. The bannister on the front stair- case contains 3000 value of gold, and the marbles over the doors, etc., are very fine. The ceiling of large saloon re- presents the four parts of the world, by Maella. There are some fine Sevres vases, and a chair and table in malachite, a present of Prince DemidofFs, valued at about 1500. Visit the gabinete de platina, inlaid with this metal, ivory, and ebony ; and the one next to it, where mirrors have been profusely placed where they are least required. There are beautifully- embroidered silks and damasks on the walls, representing views in Italy and Greece, marines, etc. The ceilings and doors are very low. Gardens. De la Isla. Those so called are situated around the larger palace. They were originally laid out under Philip II., and an idea of their style at that epoch may be formed from the picture taken of them by Velasquez, now in the Royal Gallery at Madrid, under Nos. 1109 (representing the Last Fountain in the Garden de la Isla), and 1110 (representing the Avenue or Calle de la Reina). Much was modified after- wards in the Len6tre style of Ver- sailles ; now they are in great neglect and weedy, the fountains mostly dry, the leaves unswept up, and little more done than the sowing of rye grass and the making of narrow walks and plots. There are some magnificent elms and planes, of the species Ulma nigra and Platanus orientalis (Linn.) ARANJUEZ. 23 These trees (originally brought from England) were once as great rarities here as the-orange tree, the olive, and the palm would be in a garden at Wind- sor or Kensington. Parterre. The Fountain of Hercules, with the columns of Calpe and Abyla (Gibraltar and Ceuta) ; round the pedestal are sculp- tured the labours of the god, and above his statue and Anteus. The Fountains of Bacchus, de la Alcachofa, are of in- different execution. Close to the sus- pension bridge isalarge English-looking flour-mill, the property of Mr. Drake del Castillo, Marquis of Yegamar. In the Gardens del Principe, where the Casa del Labrador is situated, the trees are also very fine, and make of Aran- juez a charming oasis in the midst of the dusty scorched-up desert wherein Madrid is placed, and to which the foreign residents at Madrid for the Spaniard is no lover of trees and rus escape at times to breathe in summer, and hear the choirs of sweet-tongued nightingales, a rara avis for Madrilenos. There are some fine cedars of Lebanon and colossal elms. Visit the Islas Americanas, peopled with several in- teresting species imported from America under Charles III. The usual cockney- fied montanas rusas, and suizas, grot- toes, kiosks, fountains, labyrinths, etc. , found in the gardens of that period of bad taste, abound also here. On the banks of the river, which flows some- what rapidly, are some paddocks of the crown, where the cream-coloured Aran- juez breed are reared, and also several camels, llamas, etc. According to the journal kept by Lord Auckland, am- bassador to Charles III., there was great animation here at that time, the court and ministers dined between twelve and two o'clock, and drove to the Calle de la Reina at live, in landaus drawn by six or ten mules, and four footmen behind. There was much shooting, hunting, balls, and intrigues, and fre- quent exhibitions of horsemanship called parejas, where the princes and young nobleman played the most prominent part, in the presence of 10,000 or 12,000 spectators. The horses, to the sound of music, formed into various figures ' resembling a very complicated dance. ' The most interesting drives are Camino de las Rocas to Lago de Ontigola, etc. , and to the Bodega or wine-cellars, made on a very great scale by Charles III. in 1788 ; they are curious for then- size. The wine made in the environs is of inferior quality, which has not been improved by such good connoisseurs and landed proprietors as Senores Marin, Zayas, etc. The caballerizas (stables) are in the village itself, and deserve a visit. The Arab sires are most pure, and the crossed breed fine. There is a theatre open during the season, which begins about April and ends in June, when all who can depart, as then the heat is very great, and the ague resulting from the great evapora- tion and stagnant waters to be dreaded, causing many deaths amongst the inha- bitants. The bull-ring is large, and there are occasionally very good corri- das. The sporting world of Madrid contrive now and then to get up a steeplechase, which is about what a bull-fight would be in England. At very rare intervals the court resides at this sitio real in the early sum- mer. There is then some animation in this otherwise dull and monotonous place ; but Aranjuez, even then, cannot recover its past splendour and gaieties, and well may we exclaim with Schiller, Die schonen Tage in Aranjuez sind nun zu Ende I Don Carlos. Books of Reference. 1. 'Obras Li- ricas y Comicas, Divinas y Humanas,' etc., by Hurtado de Mendoza; Madrid, Zuniga, about 1728. A verse and prose 24 ASTURIAS. description of the gardens and palaces ; contains, moreover, one of a fiesta in the time of Charles II. of Spain. 2. 'Descripcion Historica de la El. Casa y Bosque de Aranjuez,' by Guin- dos y Buena ; Madrid, Impta. Real, 1804. 3. 'Descripcion de los Jardines Fu- entes, Estatuas Palacio, Casa del La- juez,' 1771. brador/ etc., by M. Aleas ; Madrid, 1824. 4. ' Guia Pintoresca Descripcion,' etc., by E. de E. y R. ; Madrid, Rufino, 1864. The mineral springs ( !) and flora of the cerros around Aranjuez have been given by Doctor Gamez in his * Ensayo sobre las Aguas Medicinales de Aran- ASTURIAS. If we are to believe Silius Italicus and others, the Asturians descend by name and race from Astyr, a follower, or rather servant, of Memnon, and fugitive from Troy. Father Sota, in his ' Cronica de los Principes de Asturias,' too proud to admit of Astyr for his low origin, con- verts him into Jupiter Cretensis and Mercury Trismegistus, etc. But the real origin of the name comes from the river Astura, afterwards called Extula and Stola, and finally Ezla ; and the Asturii were then the different peoples that dwelt between the Cantabric Sea and the Duero, which latter separated them from the Vetoni, as the Ezla from the Vacci, etc. The most warlike amongst them were the Transmontane Asturii, who lived between the ocean and the Erba- sian hills, which to this day are called Arvas, and whose limits correspond ex- actly to those of the present principal- ity of Asturias. They were originally peopled by the Liguri of Italy (see Avienus), and are mentioned in Himil- car's ' Journey round Spain. ' The Celts expelled them and settled here, and a portion of them became the Asturii ; they were a most warlike, independent race, and the Romans had great trouble to overcome them. Augustus himself came in 27 B.C. with that object, and had to retire, dejected, out of humour and patience, to Tarragona, and, as is well known, the Cantabric war lasted upwards of five years, at the end of which time Agrippa subdued them. The riches of this country did not escape the shrewd Roman, who knew that money is the nerve of war. Lucan, Martial, S. Italicus, mention the mines that abounded : Astur avarus Visceribus laurae telluris mergltur imis, Et redit infelix effoso concolor auro. Pliny was not ignorant of them, and Florus says : * Circa se omnis aurifera, miniique et chrysocallse et aliorum, co- larum ferax. ' The Roman Treasury was in the yearly receipt of 20,000 libras of gold from Asturias. The sure-footed, gentle, and untiring jaquitas, called by them Asturcones, are praised by S. Italicus as Ingentes animi, membra haud procera de- cusque : Corporis exiguum ; sed turn sibi fecerat alas, Concitus, atque ibat campo indygnatas habenas. The Romanised Asturians, so to say, made great resistance to the Goth, and it was not until the 7th century that they submitted. When the hour of the downfall of the Gothic monarchy had sounded for all Spain, the mountains between the Atlantic and the Mediter- ranean became the refuge of those who had not bent before the Berber, and in a community of danger, the descend- ant of the Roman, the blue-eyed Goth, and the tall Iberian, all became one and the same race, and were regenerated, and found unity and strength, by seek- ASTURIAS. 25 ing in common a country and liberty. Pelayo, a Roman by name, but whose father, Favilla, was a Goth, and of the blood royal, came from Toledo, where he commanded Witiza's body-guard, and roused his countrymen to fight. The love of his country moved him to it, as well as the outrages his sister had been exposed to at the hands of Munuza. The Berbers sent Al-Kaman to reduce the independent tribes. Pelayo headed his troops, and succeeded in drawing the Arabs into the recesses and danger- ous gorges of Covadonga, where he mas- sacred them by thousands 187,000, according to Bishop Sebastian, and 80,000, to the Tudense. The chief Pelayo was now proclaimed king, and during nineteen years endeavoured to consolidate a kingdom, which was created in a day of victory. To achieve his work he was not a little aided by the divisions amid the Arabs, their defeats in the south of France, and more espe- cially by the inaccessibility of those natural barriers which, moreover, led to no wealthy cities. The monarchy thus founded, and formed of scattered and different populations into one strong body like the bundle of arrows of La Fontaine's fable, was afterwards divided into several kingdoms, and as the con- quered ground became daily more exten- sive, was to be once more united, under Ferdinand and Isabella, after eight cen- turies of struggle with that very race whose first onset had united them also. Oviedo was the capital, after Cangas de Onis and Pravia had ceased to be such, and after becoming in turn the victim and head of its neighbours, Leon and Galicia, were absorbed in the kingdom of Castile. When Juan I. married his son Henry to Catherine, daughter of the Duke of Lancaster, the Cortes of Briviesca (1388) decreed that the Astu- rias would henceforth become the ap- panage of the heirs to the crown, and they have ever since been styled Prin- cipes de Asturias. Asturias is situated on a much lower level than Castile, and is intersected by hills, which form rich Swiss-like vales, where pasture is abundant. The sierra on the S. rises like a gigantic wall, and is but a prolongation of the Pyrenean system, and impracticable save by the Puerto de Pajares. It closes in a line parallel to the sea, which forms its na- tural barrier on the N. It occupies a surface of 388 square leagues, with a somewhat dense population of 524,529, giving 341 '80 per Spanish mile of 20 to the degree. The aspect of Asturias varies, but it is in general woody, with fruit trees, planes, the chestnut, and ash in the valley region. The mountainous districts abound in Salvator Rosa-like rocks and ravines, foaming torrents gushing from the summits into yawning precipices, virgin forests of oaks, the Quercus robur (Linn.), and beech-trees, and the bear and the wolf are not unfre- quently met with. In the coast-line the vegetation changes, and there are between sheltering hills bosomed vales where the orange grows. The climate is generally damp and cold, on account of the icy blasts from the snowy hills, and the cierzo or 1ST. wind which blows from its denuded shores. There is much fog and con- tinued rains, a consequence of the high hills, the abundance of trees, and water. These vapours, which in some portions and at certain periods hang over the valleys, produce an absence of chiaro oscuro, which deprives the scenery, otherwise grand and varied, of anima- tion and relief. Agriculture is the principal occupa- tion of the people ; the centeno (rye) grows well on the slopes of the moun- tains, corn has been of late years much cultivated, especially the species called candeal or escandaj and the Indian 26 ASTURIAS. corn, called here borona, is grown. The vine, which was cultivated in the middle ages, has been superseded by the poma- rada, or apple-trees, from which toler- able cider is extracted. Cattle and sheep are the object of much attention, and the piaras of pigs are celebrated. The hills and spurs of the sierras abound with game, wild boars, and deer, and the rivers with trout and salmon. The Ayuntamientos, or Commons, are sub- divided into feligresias, and these again into lug ares (from locus). The houses in these country places are clean, tidy, and white-washed ; close to them are the orrios or granaries (from the Latin horreum), which are made of wood, and rise upon pillars, so as to keep out rats and moisture. The people are a hardy, humble, good-hearted race, celebrated for their honesty and industry, and of patriarchal habits. In this corner of Spain, where railways and the press have hardly yet penetrated, there are treasures of novel scenes, costumes, and customs in store for the artist ; as, for example, the ro- merias, or pilgrimages to the princi- pal shrines of this piously-minded people. There is heard the old war-cry, ijuju ! and the dance, worthy of a bass- relief, called danza prima, takes place, which consists of two choirs, one exclu- sively composed of men, who move hand in hand and slowly round in a circle, keeping time with the melancholy ro- mance which is sung by a choir of women. This, the muneira, and others not less poetical and antique in character are danced also after the coida, or fruit- gathering (harvest). On the long win- ter nights, when the snow lies so thick at the door that the very stars seem shiver- ing in the amethyst heaven, and the big round moon peeps ghost-like at the win- dow, the elders of the village or farm sit round the shining liar, and frighten the maidens and amuse the lads with legends of a truly German cast, wherein are mentioned the doings of the xanas, or diminutive fairies that rise from fountains and springs at night time, and dry their slimy hair in the moon- beams ; and the evil and mischief-mak- ing huestes, that appear in the woods and over marshes, messengers of sorrow and death. The meetings in the open air, the oblada, or eating-offering at funerals, are likewise curious. The idiom is a dialect of the Romance, the only one possessing a distinct form for the neuter gender in adjectives. It has great analogy with the Galician and Portuguese, and also with the Italian and Limousin. It is called Bable, a word not unlike the French babil, and Dutch babelen, for which the Spanish has no equivalent save charla and gerigonza. In this dialect the .;' sounds ?/, and often like ch, the / is in- stead of h aspirate (falar for hablar, fer for hacer). With but few modifica- tions it is almost the same language in which Berceo, Segura, and the Arci- preste de Hita wrote ; the number of augmentatives and diminutives give to it great charm, strength, and tenderness. There are no vestiges of Bable ballads anterior to the 17th century, and those sung or found in Asturias dating before are in Castilian. Of the latter we may be allowed to give an example : it is the most popular ballad in Asturias, and in quaintness and plaintive strain is not unlike some Scottish ballads. It is sung by alternate choirs, at their dances, and is a Castilian romance : Ay un galan de esta villa, Ay un galan de esta casa , Ay el por aqui venia, Ay el por aqui llegaba. Ay diga lo que el queria Ay diga lo que el buscaba. Ay busco la blanca nifia, Ay busco la nina blanca, La que el cabello tejia La que el cabello trenzaba. ASTURIAS. Que tiene voz delgadita, Que tiene la voz delgada. Ay que no la hay n'esta villa, Ay que no la hay n'esta casa, Si no era una mi prima, Si no era una mi hermana, Ay del marido pedida, Ay del marido velada. Ay la tiene alii Sevilla, Ay la tiene alia Granada, Ay bien qu'ora la castiga, Ay bien que la castigaba, Ay con varillas de oliva, Ay con varillas de malva. Ay que su amigo la cita, Ay que su amigo 1'aguarda, Ay el que le did la cinta, Ay el que le did la saya, Al pie de una fuente fria, Al pie de una fuente clara, Que por el oro corria, Que por el oro manaba. Ya su buen amor venia, Ya su buen amor llegaba, Por donde ora el sol salia, Por donde ora el sol rayaba, Y celos le despedia, Y celos le demandaba. Dress of the Peasantry. The men wear white felt caps enlivened by green trimming, and the black velvet montera of the Gallegos is seen here and there. The maragatos wear a special dress, wide knee-breeches called zaraguelles tied on the knee by red cotton garters, large slouched hats, long brown cloth gaiters polainas, leather jerkins, jubo- netas with a cinturon of leather, em- broidered and coloured red, and a black long undercoat in cloth. The wealthy inhabitants wear almost the same cos- tume, but without the jerkin, and the cloth is replaced by silk. The women wear a peculiar dress, very picturesque also, and when married, a sort of head- gear called ellcaramiello. With the exception of its principal towns Asturias is very backward in civilisation, but enormously interesting to the ecclesiologist, sportsman and lover of fine scenery. The country is quite Swiss-like, and we recommend it to enterprising pedestrians and horse- men, though they must be prepared to rough it, as inns and post-houses are things unknown in the mountains of Asturias. But the unbought hospitality in the farms is very great and heartfelt. The season for travelling in Asturias is spring, summer, or not at all except on the sea-coast, where autumn is not so much to be feared. Asturias abounds in very rich mines ; but through ignorance, bad faith, often neglect, and want of funds, Asturian mines have been neither sought for nor worked as they deserve. The subsoil of most of the extent of the province consists of deep beds of excellent coal, inferior to no other in the world save that from Newcastle ; the principal beds are at Langreo, Mieres, Santo Firme, Ferrones, etc. A railroad carries the ore from the former to the quay at Gijon, where they are embarked. The exportation of the Asturian ports ex- ceeds 70,000,000 kil. There is a rich copper mine at Lobiana, cobalt at Pe- namellera, tin at Salave, antimony at Cangas do Tineo, quicksilver at Po de Cabrales, Carabia, etc. To those coming from Madrid we recommend : Begin tour at Leon, proceed to Oviedo, whence by Cangas de Tineo, Fonsagrada, Lugo, riding ; there take the rail to Coruna, ride round the extreme N.W. point by Ferrol and Vivero to Kivadeo, or proceed by dil. or riding from Coruna to Bivadeo by Mondonedo, Castropol, Aviles, and Gi- jon (or back to Oviedo), Infiesto, Can- gas de Onis, Covadonga, Abandares (near is Penamelera), S. Vicente, San- tillana, Santander. Tourists coming from France may either take the inverse route, or, if pressed for time, limit their excursion to a ride through Santillana, Covadonga, and Oviedo, returning either by one of the steamers that ply between Gijon and Santander, or by rail from Oviedo to Leon. The churches are 28 AVILA. among the earliest known in the Penin- sula, and of very high interest to the ecclesiologist. The style is peculiar to Asturias, and portions of Galicia and Leon. The best examples are cited in our General Information, Architecture. The principal rivers and streams, abounding with salmon, are : at Sella, near Cangas de Onis ; the salmon-pools of Pazo de Monejo, near Abandares ; on the Deva river, the points called Car- reras, Abandones, and Arenas. There is excellent trout in the Cares, near Mier, and in the Vernesga, between Oviedo and Leon. Books of Reference. 1. 'Antigiie- dades concernientes a la Region de los Asturos Transmontanos, ' (only to the 10th century), by Riseo, in the 37th vol. of his ' Espana Sagrada. ' The 37th, 38th, and 39th vols. of * Espana Sagrada' contain the most accurate, critical, and extensive information that exists upon Asturias. 2. 'Historia Natural y Medica del Principado de Asturias, ' by D. Casal; Madrid, Martin, 1762, 4to., well spoken of by Sempere in his * Ensayo de una Bibl. Espana de Escritores del Reinado de Carlos III.,' vol. ii. p. 152. 3. ' Coleccion de Poesias Asturianas, Oviedo, 1839, contains the best ex- amples of the poets of the 17th and 18th centuries, with a good philological discourse on the dialect. 4. For the natural history of this region, see Bowies' ' Introduccion a la Historia Natural,' etc., and Casal's 'Descripcion.' 5. ' Minas de Carbon de Piedra de Asturias,' 8vo., Madrid, with a map and sections, by Ezquerra del Bayo, Bauza, etc., 1831. 6. 'Resena geognostica del Princi- pado de Asturias, ' by G. Schultz, in the ' Anales de Minas,' 1838, vol. i. 7. 'On the Coal Deposits of the Asturias,' by S. Pratt, a paper pub- lished in the 'Athenaeum,' 1845, p. 676. 8. ' Notice sur les Fossiles devoniens des Asturies,' by De Verneuil, d'Ar- chiac, ' Bulletins de la Societe Geo- logique de France,' 1845, 2d series, vol. ii. p. 458. Also ParcerisaVRecuerdosy Bellezas de Espana ' ; the ' Monumentos Arqui- tectonicos ' ; the publications of the Spanish Folk -Lore Society and the annual official mining statistics. AVILA. Capital of province of same name j 9500 inhab. ; bishopric. Koutes and Conveyances. 1. From Madrid, by rail ; distance, 50f miles ; time, 3| hrs. by express ; 5 hrs. by slow train. Fares, 1st cl., Pes. 13.15 ; 2d, Pes. 9.85. A buffet ; breakfast, 12r. ; dinner, 14r. pretty good. Trains stop 20 minutes. It is on the line from Bayonne to Madrid, by Burgos and Valladolid. It is also reached from Escorial by rail direct 27J miles ; time about 1J hours by express, and tourists may thus combine the hours so as to visit Avila, avoiding, if possible, to sleep there, though the inn is improved. 2. Antiquaries a outrance who wish to visit the antiquities at Guisando, on the way to Avila, can hire horses at Esco- rial and perform the following tour : ROUTE 2. Leagues Escorial to San Martin de Valdeiglesias 2 Guisando i Tiemblo ...... i Berraco 2 Avila Or, Escorial to Nnvas del Marques Urraca !* si AVILA. 29 And 3, also from or to Segovia, by the Escorial, Guadarrama, San Ilde- fonso, 18 leagues. Yery hard riding over uninteresting country. The old diligence service between Avila and Salamanca has been superseded by the railway route via Medina del Campo. DESCRIPTION OF 2D ROUTE. Very near San Martin de Valdeiglesias is the Bernardine convent of that name, which was founded in the 12th century by Alfonso VII., and whose gem, a fine plateresque silleria, the master-piece of Toledano, 1571, has been removed to the University of Madrid. One league farther is the convent of San Geronimo de Guisando, situated on a slope, amid laurels and cypresses, from which the view extends over the Vega and Villa of San Martin. Its grottoes and caves served as cells to the Italian hermits who founded with some Spanish brethren the Order of St. Gerome. In a vineyard at the base of the hill are scattered sculptures which, from their apparent, though very rude, imitation of bulls, or rather boars, have been termed los toros de Guisando. Their origin and purpose are alike doubtful. Some authorities regard them as the ancient deities of the natives ; more likely they were landmarks. Keltiberian characters of doubtful authenticity have been found upon certain of these toros ; but, almost illegible to old Pedro de Medina, even as far back as the 16th century, they are entirely so now. These toros would seem at one time to have been numerous in Central Spain, as old writers mention a considerable number of them. General Description. (Inn: Fonda del Ingles fair.) This city, I which still preserves much of the Gothic style in its edifices, houses, and aspect, is one of the most backward in the world. Its origin, as of all other cities in Spain, is attributed to fabulous heroes and semi-gods, and it is curious to see how seriously such learned men as the Bene- dictine Luis Ariez in his grandezas de Avila ('Alcala de Henares,' fol. 1607, the MS. ' Historia de Avila, ' ascribed to Bishop Pelayo of Oviedo, in the Biblio- teca Nacional, G. 112) could lose their time in writing volumes to prove which of the forty-three Hercules of Paganism was king of Spain, and married an African princess called Abyla, whose son founded Avila. But by whomsoever the city was founded and peopled, trustworthy chronicles allow us to sup- pose that it was repeopled by Count Don Remond, by order of King Alfonso VI., his father-in-law. Its massive walls are still extant, and form a fine specimen of the military architecture and engineering of the llth century, some of which are 42 ft. high and 1 4 ft. thick. The gloomy aspect of this de- cayed city is increased by the dark colour of the granite emplo3 T ed in the construction. The chief sight is The Cathedral, which partakes of the castle, from its massiveness and capabilities of defence. (See especially the exterior of the apse, with its bold machicolations, which forms actually a part of the city walls.) Commenced 1091, by one Alvar Garcia, a Navarrese architect, the cathedral church of San Salvador was ready for consecration only sixteen years afterwards'; but was slowly perfected during the whole of the izth and part of the i3th centuries. The interior, of very pure Gothic and good propor- tions, is somewhat marred, both in detail and accessories, by bad late work and restoration. The finest portion is the exquisite double aisle round the Capilla Mayor. The exterior western fagade, with its towers, crocketed pediment and ball enrichment, is very imposing, as is also the facade of the north transept. Note especi- ally the sculpturing of the north doorway, representing the Coronation of the Virgin, the Betrayal in the Garden and the Institution of the Blessed Sacrament. The stained glass throughotit is very rich and good, notably that by Santillana and Valdivieso in the isth century Capilla del Cardinal opening out of the E. side of the sadly-defaced cloisters. The fine retablo of the high altar is late isth century, with three stages of paintings by Juan de Borgona, Pedro 30 AVILA. Berruguete and Santos Cruz. The solitary figures of SS. Peter and Paul, with the four Evangelists and four doctors of the Church, which occupy the lowest stage, are full of life and vigorous conception. The more ambitious compositions above first the Annunciation, Nativity, Transfiguration, Adoration of the Magi and the Presentation in the Temple, and then the Scourging, the Agony, the Crucifixion, the Descent into Hades and the Resurrection are not so satisfactory. The choir-stalls, by Cornielis, 1536-47, are elaborately Renaissance, as are many other fittings of the church. Ob- serve carefully the tombs and monuments, especially that of the learned Bishop of Avila, Alfonso El Madrigal (also called ' El Tostado ' and ^El Abulense '), ob. 1455 ; the exquisite Renaissance alabaster monument to San Se- gundo on the S. side of the Crossing (his tomb is in the hideous Churrigueresque chapel on the S.E. of the apse); the sepulchre 'de los imagenes ' in the San Nicolas chapel, and the fine i3th century monument in the San Miguel chapel. The Relicario should be inspected for the sake of Juan de Arfe's classical silver monstrance, and a goodly array of church plate. (Juan de Arfe was the best of a great Leonese family of artists of the name, speci- mens of whose work may be seen in most of the Spanish cathedrals.) The three most remarkable churches after the cathedral are those of San Vicente, San Pedro, and Santo Tomas. The first stands just outside the walls on the road to the station, and is of the finest Romanesque of the i3th century. It is dedicated to the three martyrs Vicente, Sabina and Cristeta, who, for dese- crating an altar of Jupiter, were executed by order of the Emperor Dacian at the beginning of the 4th century, upon the rock which may still be seen in the crypt below the Capilla Mayor. Note carefully four points : the ad- mirable way in which, in both interior and exterior treatment, the difficulties of a rapidly sloping side are overcome ; the noble west end, with its lofty double porch and double portal, all just sufficiently and beautifully decorated ; the open cloistering carried along the outside of the south wall, and the i3th century monu- ment to the three martyrs on the S. side of the Crossing. The late baldachin covering this tomb is poor, but the life the intense expres- sion of the sculptured representations of the martyrdom set forth upon the panels of the shrine is beyond all praise. San Pedro stands in the Plaza del Mercado, and is similar in style to San Vicente, but of rougher workmanship. Santo Tomas lies half a mile outside of the city on the S.E. Founded 1482 by Ferdinand and Isabella, at the insti- gation of the Inquisitor Torquemada, the monastery became a favourite residence of the monarchs, and the educational home of their only son, Prince Juan. It has lately been restored, and handed over to the Dominicans for seminarial purposes. Both church and cloisters are worth seeing. The former is of very impressive Gothic, with clever arrange- ment of light and shade. Note the carved silleria of the choir (by Cornielis), and the paintings of the retablo (perhaps by Fernando Gallegos), but especially the glorious Renais- sance tomb of Prince Juan, before the high altar, together with that of his attendants, Juan de Avila and Juana Velazquez, in a chapel on the north side of the nave. Prince Juan's tomb is by Domenico El Fiorentino, and;is one of the finest pieces of Renaissance work in the world. Visit also the small Romanesque church of San Segundo, situated at the N.W. angle of the city, near the Adaja bridge, upon the spot where the bishop -saint is said to have cast down a recalcitrant Moor from the turret above (the effigy of the bishop, by Berruguete, is noteworthy) ; also the churches of San Esteban, San Andres and Mosen Rubi with its toros de Guisando and the quaint old houses of the Condes Polentinos, Onate and ' Petrus Avila.' Finally, a walk through the Plaza del Mercado on a market-day for the sake of its groups of country-folk in character- istic costume the circuit of the city walls, and a visit to the Santa Casa, close by the S.W. gate, should on no account be omitted. The latter, now only a gaudily decorated convent- church, is the birthplace of the Santa Teresa de Jesus to whom Avila owes its greatest glory, and whose records and religious houses may here be met with more plentifully than in any other part of Spain. The strange life of the saint is well known her childlike gracious- ness and fervent devotion, her innumerable visions and exalted mysticism, her supremely patient work and final triumphing. The memorials of one who in a ceaseless fight of forty -seven years conquered self, conquered suffering, conquered persecution and conquered Time, would alone call for a visit to Avila, even if the city of itself were not a place of deep interest and usefullest study. BALEARIC ISLANDS. See PALMA. BADAJOZ. Seep. 536. MADRID & BILBAO TO ZARA&OZA,Lt!RliDA& BARCELONA. 31 BARCELONA. Capital of province of same name, for- merly of Cataluria(see latter), residence of Capitania-General of Cataluna ; bishop's see, suffragan of Archbishop of Tarra- gona. Pop., with suburbs, 430,000. Koutes and Conveyances. 1st, from Madrid, by rail ; thus Madrid to Zaragoza, distance, 21 3| m. ; fares, 1st cl., Pes. 39.25; 2d cl., Pes. 30.40; time, 13 hrs. by slow train ; 10 by mail ; fast express twice a week. See for details of road, buffets, etc., ' Madrid from Zaragoza.' At Zaragoza there are trains in connection with Barcelona ; see as follows for details, etc. Cent, from Zaragoza (line from Pam- plona), distance, 226 m. ; time, 12| hrs. by mail ; 10^ by express; fares, 1st cl., Pes. 42.10 ; 2d cl., Pes. 31.60 ; 3d cl., Pes. 23.15. Buffets. 1st at Lerida, about 6 hrs. from Zaragoza good, dear ; 2d, at Manresa, not quite so good, about 4 hrs. from Lerida. D escription of Koute. The country is not very interesting. The principal features are, great scarcity of trees, ex- cept some olives here and there ; scarcity of villages and towns on the way ; plains very extensive, and some hills, on slopes of which vines are cultivated. At Villa- nueva the Gallego is seen on the right. At Zuera it is crossed on a bridge. Tardienta, reached about two hours after leaving Zaragoza. Branch rail from here to Huesca, 9^ m., from whence dil. to Barbastro, 8 leagues, from which one may return to take up R. line from Zaragoza to Barcelonaat the station of Monzon. Huesca is an interesting excursion for ecclesiologists, as the ca- thedral is fine. To those who visit Huesca and Barbastro, see end of Zara- goza. At one hour's ride from the station of Sarinena is a fine Carthusian convent of good style ; the pictures once here have been taken to Huesca and to Sarinena, and a fine Christ to the village of Lanaja. Not far from it the country is much broken up, as if by convulsions, and here and there appear lofty masses of red earth not unlike some mouldering Titanic fortresses, or ruins of castles, worthy of the pencil of Salvator Rosa. Selgua. Branch line to Barbastro, 6 miles. Monzon. Conveyances to Barbastro 8 miles. The Cinca river, which passes here, divides Aragon from Cataluna. The castle, on a height, is very old ; was enlarged by Templars in 1143, to whom it was granted by Count Ramon Ber- enguer. The ruins on another height close by are ascribed to the Romans. Ltrida (see Tarragona from Zaragoza). Cap. of Lerida. Pop. 30,000. Hotels, de Espana and San Luis, fair. The Segre is crossed by a fine bridge. Bellpuig, about | hr. from Lerida. This was the solar or family mansion of the Angle- solas, whose castle crowns a hill. Close to it is the celebrated Franciscan con vent, now deserted and going to utter ruin. The exterior is indifferent. It was founded in the 16th century by Don Ramon de Cardona, Viceroy of Naples. The gem of it are the cloisters, which are formed by three galleries ; the two lower ones belong to the decline of Gothic, and the third is classical. The pillars of the second gallery, which presents a somewhat strange appearance, are not unlike those of the Lonja of Valencia, and the capitals are orna- mented with foliage, fruit, and figures. The spiral staircase leading from the cloister to the church is of great merit, from its well-combined proportions. In this church, and on one side of the altar, is a very fine mausoleum, the 32 BARCELONA ROUTES. tomb of the founder. The style is classic. The relievi representing scenes from his Life in Italy, Africa, etc. ; genii, medallions, allegorical figures, and all other such ornament appropriate to this style appear well executed. The relievi will interest the artist as pre- senting a rich collection of the military costumes worn at the beginning of the 16th century. The Virgin and child above are of bad effect. The sarco- phagus is placed within a deep recessed niche, the external arch of which is supported by caryatatides with dolorous countenances. The relievo on the back of the niche represents a Virgin and dead Christ, with the Magdalen and angels. The tomb is of most elegant design. Upon a broad pedestal are two sirens kneeling. The basement is sculp- tured with finely modelled horses and marine monsters. On the central front of the urn are sculptured mythological subjects, fine in composition, well grouped, and with movement and life. The lying effigy, armed cap-a-pie, is holding a staff. The soldier's sword, a present from Julius II., was sacrilegiously carried off by the French. Ponz, Celles, and other sure connoisseurs, consider this monument as a very fine specimen of architectural ornamentation. There is an excessive profusion of details, worked out to a Chinese scrupulosity on the helmets, escutcheons, vases, etc. ; the figures are natural, graceful, pleas- ing, and well executed. This magnificent in memoriam on stone was erected by the wife of Ramon de Cardona. It is of Carrara marble ; the sculptor, Juan Nolano. Manresa (Buffet. Inn : Posada de Sol), most picturesquely situated on the left bank of the Cardoner; pop. 17,000. One of the largest manufacturing cities in Cataluna. Cloth, cotton weaving, and distilling are the principal fabrics. The Colegiata is interesting, of Gothic architecture, with some fine painted glass. The Ouevade San Ignacio, where San Ignacio de Loyola, the founder of the Order of Jesuits, wrote his book and did penance, may be visited. Con- veyances : dil. to salt mines of Cardona, belonging to Duke of Medinaceli ; to visit them obtain an order from his steward at Cardona. The mine is a mountain of salt, 500 feet high, and a league in circumference. Some of the grottoes are most effective. Tarrasa, pop. 12,000; manufactories of cloth, paper, woollens. Sdbadell, pop. 18,000. One of the wealthiest and most manu- facturing cities in Cataluna. A good theatre ; streets lighted with gas. A great number of manufactories, woollen and cotton spinning. Busy, eager life, full of enterprise and with a daily in- creasing trade. The sea shortly after appears on the left, and Barcelona is reached. 2d. From Bayonne : A, by Irun and Pamplona (see Madrid] ; B, by the valley of Baztan, Pamplona, and Zara- goza (no longer any public conveyance). 3d. From Perpignan vift Gerona, A, By Railway throughout. The fron- tier lies between the stations Cerbere (French) and Port Bou (Spanish). Distance, Barcelona, 134 miles south- west. Perpignan to Port Bou, 2 trains daily, in 1 hr. (express) ; here 40 m. stoppage ; buffet. To Gerona, 2 lirs. 20m. (express) ; Gerona to Barcelona, 4 hrs. : in all about 8 hrs. The princi- pal city traversed is Figueras, where travellers change who go to Junquera. Perpignan. Hotels : Bosc : Europe et du Midi : Grand Hotel : Nord et Petit Paris. Coffee-house : Cafe Fran- cais. This is a chief lieu of the Pyre- nees Orientales, 28,360 inhab. It is a dull and backward town, with little or nothing to interest the tourist, save perhaps the Citadelle, which was ori- ginally begun by the kings of Aragon, BARCELONA ROUTES. 33 and considerably strengthened by Charles V. The river Tet crosses the city. Fine church of San Juan ; this with the Exchange, Library, Picture Gallery, Maison de Ville, etc., with the more interesting Botanical Gardens, constitute the principal sights. Rail- way to Barcelona. On leaving the city to the left, observe the arches of an aqueduct made by a king of Majorca, to bring the waters of the Tet to the royal palace. The river Canterane is then crossed ; farther on that of the Reart, with ruins of a castle on left. ELNE, 8 m. (pop. 2764). A village with a cathedral of eleventh century, on an eminence above the river Tech. Han- nibal encamped under its walls. ARGELES-SUR-MER, 13f m. (pop. 2833). In the midst of a fertile plain. The line now approaches the sea, and passes through a promontory by a tunnel 610 yards long to COLLIOURE, 17 m. (pop. 3409). A fishing- village hemmed in between cliffs. On the summit of the hill behind is Fort St. Elmo. Very good Rousillon wine is grown in the neighbourhood. PORT VENDEES, 18 m. (pop. 2040). A port with docks and quays. The telegraph cable to Algiers commences here. Sardines are caught and cured. BANYULS-SUR-MER, 21 m. (pop. 3609). Hotels: Pujol and Grand Hotel. A fishing -village frequented in summer by bathers. It has an ancient church, St. Jean d'Amont, llth cent. The wine Abbe Roux, used in the Mass, is grown here. The winter is mild, dry, and sedative, and the place is well suited for people out of health. Sardine fishery. CEREERE, 25 m. French custom- house station. Money may be changed here. Buffet. PORT-BOU, 26^ m - Spanish custom- house station, and Madrid time 25 minutes behind Paris. Buffet. The village lies in a picturesque bay be- low the station. One hour at least is lost here in ex- amining the luggage. Have your trunks plomMs, to avoid their being examined again, for which a fixed sum (a trifle) is paid. Resuming the journey after passing, among other small stations, Llansa, a small port, we arrive (16 miles from Port Bou) at Figueras. Hotels : Dessaya, Fonda del Comercio 13,000 inhab. A de- cayed old town, with no fine monu- ments ; the Citadelle is the most im- portant one in Cataluna, and is con- sidered by foreign as well as Spanish engineers as almost impregnable, if such a thing is possible in the days of Armstrong and Whitworth. The city is situated in a plain where the olive now grows, but where formerly rice was cultivated. The castle of San Fernando, crowning the height, was erected by Ferdinand VI. and enlarged by Charles III. It is built in the rock, and its shape is an irregular pentagon. It was the work of the military engi- neer Cermino. The circumference is 7380 feet (about) ; its length, K to S., 3090; breadth, E. to W., 1938. Its magazines and arsenals (bomb-proof), barracks for 20,000 men, and stables for 500 horses, are all wonderfully con- trived. The water-cisterns are inex- haustible. The weakest point is the bastion of San Roque, close to the principal entrance, and the unfinished caballero of Santa Barbara, which latter leaves the fortress exposed to the 34 BARCELONA ROUTES. heights of Mounts Sana, La Perdera, Avinonet, and Sierra Blanca. It is visited by malignant fevers yearly in summer and autumn. These are caused by stagnant ponds and marshes in the plains below, which might easily be removed. The cost of this fortress amounted to 285,000. Its situation renders it the key of the frontier. In 1794 it was cowardly surrendered to the French by Andres Torres, before a single shot had been fired. On March 18, 1808, this citadel was taken by surprise by the French under General Duhesme, who introduced 200 soldiers under a false pretext. It was recap- tured on April 10, 1811, by Rovira, a doctor in theology, also by surprise, and with a handful of men. In May of the same year it was retaken by the French General, Baraguay d'Hilliers, at the head of 4000 men. The view from the summit is extensive. For permit, apply to Senor Gobernador de la Plaza. A curious procession takes place at Figueras on the last Monday in May or the first in June. It is called Profas6 de la Tramontana, a name given to the 1ST. wind, which is to be compared only to the Brighton easterly in violence and continuity. This procession, which dates 1612, is rather a pilgrimage to the church of N. Sta. de Requesens, which is in the mountains close by, and lasts three days. Bascara, on a hill, and close to the river Fluvia. Here it was that on March 21, 1814, King Ferdinand VII. was restored to his kingdom after his captivity at Valen9ay, and escorted hither by Suchet's army. G-erona. 65 m. from Barcelona. Capital of the province of Gerona and part of Cataluria. The population numbers 17,149 inhabitants. Inns: Fonda de Espana ; Fonda de los Italianos ; both indifferent. This town is built upon a hill, the slopes of which extend to the Vega, and form a barrio called El Marcadal. The Ona crosses it, and the three-arch bridge over it is picturesque from a distance, as well as the wooden bal- conies looking upon the river, and full of flower-pots. It is a very old and quaint city, a desolate, silent place, without trade, manufactures, books, or any monument worthy of a lengthened visit, if we except the very interesting cathedral, one of the best examples of Catalonian style. It is said to have been founded by the Bracati Celts about 930 B.C., and was never important under either Goths or Arabs. The eldest sons of the kings of Aragon were styled Marquises of Gerona ; and this predilection, by making this city the habitual residence and court of those princes, caused its depopulation and ruin by the many sieges it had to undergo. In 1285 it was besieged by the king of France, Philippe le Hardi, when the garrison, being starved out, surrendered. This fact is recorded in Catalan over the gate to the S. of the city, called Puerta de la Carcel. The inscription states that the French took it not * per forsa, mes per fam.' Cathedral of Gerona. The ascent to this building is by a wide flight of steps, forming an imposing approach, worthy of a larger and handsomer church. The faade is a plain wall, with a front composed of three stages that belong to the pseudo-classic style ; the whole most indifferent. In the centre of the fa9ade is a circular rose- window, with statues of Hope, Faith, and Charity. This work, with its niches, statuettes, and other details, dates 1733. Only one of the two in- tended towers exists, and is heavy and incongruous. The primitive cathedral was very ancient, and the Moors con- verted it into a mosque. When Ludovic BARCELONA ROUTES. 35 Pius recaptured the city it was restored to its original use. It was so ruinous in the llth century that Bishop Pedro Roger and his sister, the Countess Ermesinda, undertook to rebuild it at their expense, and in 1038 the new church was consecrated. This second one was pulled down also, and left no vestiges behind save the cloisters and the belfry ; the chapter resolved to re- build it at their own expense. The extremity of the edifice was begun in 1316 ; the architect is supposed to have been Enrique of Narbonne, whose name is found as maestro de obras in the ' Liber Notulorum ' (archives of the cathedral of Gerona) as far back as 1320. His successor was Jaime de Favariis, also from Narbonne. He was succeeded by Argenter, who, it is be- lieved, completed this portion of the church in 1346. At this time the original plan of prolonging the three naves was abandoned. Several of the most celebrated maestros mayores of Spain were called to a junta, and their opinion asked as to the expediency of continuing the work with one or more naves ; the plan of one single nave pro- posed by Guillelmo Boffiz was adopted, and the work completed between 1417 and 1579. The style is Gothic ; the nave is 73 ft. wide ; the arches are of an elegant ogival, with a rose-window of stained glass over each, which is novel and of pleasing effect. The lateral naves meet and blend into one behind the presby- tery, which is surrounded by pillars in shape of a semicircle, and support the cupola. The arches are pointed ; the choir is indifferent ; the high altar be- longed to the former church, dates llth century, and is original as to form. The frontal is alabaster, but cannot be seen, as it is all over concealed under a silver chapa, except in the front, which is covered with gold. In the centre are some figures of saints, and in a niche a Virgin and Child. All of it is dotted with stones that shine like precious stones. There are, besides, several other figures of prophets, apostles, etc. The retablo is a mass of silver gilt, and forms three stages divided into com- partments, with figures and a relievo representation ; the lower stage has saints and two bishops at the sides ; the second, scenes from the life of Christ ; the third, scenes from life of the Virgin. The whole is crowned with statues, silver gilt, of the Virgin, St. Narcissus, and St. Felise. Over this retablo is a baldachin or dais of silver, which rests upon four very thin pillars covered with silver also. Thisfine retablo is by Pedro Renes ; the balda- chin is of the 14th century. On the left of the H. Chapel, or apse, is a marble tomb of Bishop Berenguer, ob. 1408. It is Gothic, and has finely-executed niches and figures. Between the chapels of Corpus Christi and San Juan is a fine Gothic tomb, of the 14th century, of the great benefactress of the cathedral, Countess Ermesinda, who was married 990 to Count Ramon Borrell III., and was celebrated for her virtue, great beauty, and wisdom in political affairs ; ob. 1057. In the chapel of San Pablo, which is the first to the left on entering by the principal door, is another fine sepulchre of Bishop Bernado de Pau, ob. 1547. There is a great profusion of details, rendered most minutely, and divided into horizontal compart- ments, filled with numberless figures ; dates 15th century. Over the door of the sacristy is the tomb of Count Ramon Berenguer II., cap de estopa, with his effigy upon it. It is of the end of the 14th century. The cloisters are anterior to the church, and Byzan- tine ; they are large with a heavy low roof. The capitals of the pillars are very elaborately carved and deserve 36 BARCELONA ROUTES. very careful study. The patio is in- 1 different and weedy ; the S. door, called de los Apostoles, has slender pillars richly sculptured, and of the coarse execution characteristic of the Byzan- tine, although here and there the Gothic may be seen already dawning; the arches have the best specimen of sculpture in the cathedral ; the statues of the Apostles are inferior to the leaf ornamentation date 1458. The cathe- dral was finished by one Pedro Costa, an R.A. of S. Fernando, ob. 1761, who also made the Grseco-Roman front of the edifice. The Sacristy has some fine church plate, and several highly interesting MSS. , richly illuminated. The Colegiata de San Feliu, dating from the 14th century (see especially the southern porch), is rendered a conspicu- ous object by its remarkable western belfry tower. This is divided into three stages, the spire dating only from the 16th century, but the lower ; portions being'perhaps 150 years older. In 1581 it was struck by lightning and seriously damaged, but has been since repaired ; the fa9ade of the church is of the 18th century. The general and original design of the church is Byzantine ; it consists of nave and aisles, transepts, apse and apsidal chapels ; the pillars are heavy and almost shapeless. The principal object of interest is the sepulchre of San Felice (or St. Felix). It is of the 13th century. The relievi on it, with per- sonages in the Roman dress, represent scenes from the saint's life. There are two bassi- relievi, said to be Roman work ; one represents a lion-hunt, and the other 'Night,' with the choir of Hours, and the Graces, etc., well pre- served, but of little merit. See also the archaic and interesting church of San Pedro de los Galligans (Galli Cantio) lying a little to the N. W. of the cathedral, and close by San Feliu. It is of very early Roman- esque, with considerable portions dating back certainly to the xoth century. Note especially the W. doorway, and the rose window above ; also the E. end, built partly of volcanic scoriae, and all the line of city wall of which the apse forms actually a section. In the cloisters is now placed the Museo Provincial, which con- tains some fine early sarcophagi, fragments of Roman and other early sculpture, and a number of relics of the sieges of 1808 and 1809, when Gerona defended herself vainly against over- whelming forces of the French with deeds of heroism and amid scenes of horror rivalling those of the great siege of Zaragoza. Look also at the now desecrated i2th century church of San Daniel (so called), close to San Pedro ; at the old houses in the cathedral plaza and the Plaza de las Coles, and at the windows of the Fonda de Espana. From Gerona, the railway to Barcelona branches between Sils and Martorell. A. One line goes to Barcelona by the sea-coast, crossing Arenys and Mataro, and is called Linea de Mataro and del Literal ; distance, 65 m. ; time about 3 hrs. to 34 hrs. ; three trains a-day ; fares, 1st cl., 40r. ; 2d cl., 32r. ; 3d cl., 22r. It is the pleasanter of the two, as it fol- lows the charming Mediterranean coast; the cool sea-breeze tempering the heat in summer, and the many white lateen sails and steamers gladdening the eye. Arenys de Mar, pronounced Arens in Catalan (i.e. sea-sand), is a small and pretty town of some 5000 inhab., situated on the Mediterranean, at the foot of some hills clothed with trees, and studded with gardens, orange - groves, and gay -looking torres ; above rises Arenys de Hunt. Here are several linen, lace, and blonde manufactories ; brandies and soap, ' ce luxe de la par- fumerie moderne,' are considerably exported. Besides, there are three fine dockyards, and Charles III. esta- blished here a good nautical or naval school, now kept up by the Chamber of Commerce of Barcelona. There is good bathing in the summer ; the en- virons are pleasant, and excursions may be made to the hermitages del Cal- vario and el Remedio. A tunnel some 600 ft. long is entered on leaving BARCELONA ROUTES. 37 Arenys. On the right we see the large and new mineral establecimiento, called ' Banos de Tito, ' excellent in diseases of the skin and rheumatism. The small river of Caldetas is traversed. To right, on a height, stands the pic- turesque Torre de los Encantados, con- sisting of some ill-kept-up fortifications. Caldetas, 631 inhab., is a pretty, clean, indifferent hamlet, with some good thermal springs ; close to it, on a height, stands the ruined castle of Rocaberti, the name of which is associated with several romanesque legends of border life and piratical inroads of Algerines, etc. The Llevaneras is crossed ; on a height rises the ancient castle of Nofre Arnau, now in ruins. Matard, pop. 16,600. Inns : Meson de la Fuerte, Parador Nuevo. The name is derived from San Miguel de Mata ; the armorial bearings being or 4 bars gules, a hand holding a sprig (Mata), with the word R6. This very thriving, busy, manufacturing town is divided into two portions ; the older, La Ciudad Vieja, occupies a hill, and preserves its ancient character, in its gates, sombre narrow streets, etc. ; the modern part extends down to the sea, on the slopes of that same hill, the streets being wide, the houses lofty, clean, and many elegantly furnished, well built, and painted outside and in with dauby but effective frescoes. Visit the parish church for its silleria, and the six fine pictures by Viladomat (chapel de los Dolores), representing Passion of Christ. * Jesus bearing the Cross, ' has been compared by connoisseurs to Murillo's best style. There are some others by Montana. There is a pretty theatre, an admirably well-organised * Colegio de Cataluna, ' a large and regular Plaza de la Constitucion, etc. The town was cruelly sacked in 1808 by the Franco-Italian division under Lecchi, and it was saved from being set on fire by the intercession of Don Felix Guarro, who entreated the general to spare the town. Had he lived in the 13th or 14th century he would have been canonised by the militant Church, just as his city was by the triumphant French army ; as it was, the merciful conquerors managed to carry away some 780,000rs. as a souvenir. On leaving the city, the traveller sees on a hill to the right the ruins of the Moorish tower Borriach, at the foot of which is the mineral spring of Argentona. The waters are carbonated, and most effica- cious in the treatment of nervous com- plaints. (Conveyance by tartanas, in | hr. , from station of Matar6 during the temporada.) All the district between this and Yilasar produces beautiful roses and strawberries, etc., which are sent to Barcelona. On leaving the station of Vilasar, and not far from several Moorish atalayas or watch-towers on same hills, observe the castle of Vilasar, one of the best preserved examples of mediaeval palatial fortresses in Cataluna. The railway continues to follow the seaboard, stud- ded with small, pretty, and thriving hamlets. On leaving Masnou, the Aleya is crossed, and a tunnel entered, some 420 ft. long. At Mongat, observe on the hill the castle of that name, which is celebrated for the heoric re- sistance of its few inhabitants in 1808 against the whole of Lecchi's division, numbering eight guns of heavy calibre. The siege lasted four days it fell at last, and all its brave inmates were cut down one after the other. One hour off stand the ruins of the Cartuja of Montalegre, amid wild scenery. The legend of its foundation runs thus : Two school-fellows, who had completed their studies at Barce- lona, were coming home, when they chanced to halt in the pleasant valley of Montalegre. ' This is fine scenery, 38 BARCELONA ROUTES. and worthy of a convent. ' * The situa- tion is fine indeed.' * Well,' quoth the former, 'if I ever become a Pope, I shall build one here.' ' In that case,' answered the other, ' I must become a monk, and live in it. ' Years and years had elapsed, when Fray Juan de Nea was sent to Rome by command of his superior, who had received an order from the Pope to that effect. The good monk, in the act of kissing the Pontiff's foot, raised his head, and lo, the Pope, Nicolas V. , was no other than his old school-fellow of Barcelona. Need we add that the convent was built, and the funds generously given by the Santo Padre ? Alfonso V. and his queen embellished and aggrandised it, and the three cloisters, paintings, library, and plate subsisted, and were celebrated until 1835, when it was mostly destroyed during the civil war. The ruins cells, garden-like cloisters and chapels now partly restored and well kept, are interesting and deserving of a visit. The surrounding country, too, with its breezy undulations and wide views over the tossed -up Catalonian hill region, is beautiful in the extreme. Badalona pop. 14,200 theBetulo of the Romans, on the Nesos, amid a fertile plain, gardens and orange-groves. As we approach the capital the railway passes close under the citadel ; to the left is Barceloneta and the bull-ring, and we stop at the E. side of Barcelona. B. The second line passes Hostalrich and Granollers, and is called Linea del Interior and of Granollers. Distance, 61J m. ; time same as by former ; fares, 1st cl., 40r. ; 2d cl., 32r. ; 3d cl., 22r. Hostalrich, on the Tordera, a strongly fortified place, very picturesque. m. westwards is Breda, from whence the ascent of Montseny is best made : a fair posada, Casa Pons, where guides and mules may be hired for the ascent Granollers. Province of Barcelona. capital of the Valles, population 6000. A rather interesting church is here of 12th century, but with portions prob- ably of 14th and even 15th century, a nave of five bays ; an apse of seven sides, with a tower at the north-west angle. Observe staircase, and especially the iron hand-railing, leading to the groined gallery (late 15th century) in west bay, a charming newel staircase in the angle of the tower, a remarkable late wooden pulpit with rich woodwork, a fine pic- ture representing the martyrdom of St. Bartholomew. Branch line to Vich (pop. 13,100 ; fine cathedral and clois- ters ; birthplace of Balmes) and Ripoll (see p. 40 for description). In the en- virons, several excursions. Ruins of the castle of La Roca ; the Romanesque Church of San Felice de Canovellas (dist. 1m.); the snowy hills of Mont- seny, and the picturesque ruins of the Santuario de San Miguel del Fay, to reach which some wild country has to be crossed. From Marseilles by several good lines Frassinet ; Compagnie Generale Transatlantique ; Ibarra y Compania. Regular sailings, for which see adver- tisements in time - tables and news- papers, in about 22 hrs. Fares, 1st cl., 55fr. ; 2d cl., 37fr. ; 3d cl., 20fr. First and second class passengers are entitled to 100 kilog. luggage free ; children under 3 years gratis ; from 3 to 7 years old pay half -fare. Meals extra. Table d'hdte breakfast and dinner at tariff prices. Private cabins if desired. From Valencia. A. By sea. By steamers (good) of the Spanish Trans- atlantic Company (formerly A. Lopez y Compania) and the Compagnie His- pano-Frangaise. Regular sailings : 16 to 20 hrs. Frequent special and direct steamers, for which see local advertisements. Fares, 1st class, 30 pesetas ; 2d class, 20 pesetas. BARCELONA ROUTES. 39 B. By rail. Valencia to Tarragona twice daily ; 7 hrs. by express (1st and 2d class), 11 hrs. by slow. Tar- ragona to Barcelona in 3 hrs., three times daily. Total, through from Valencia to Barcelona, 9J hrs. by express; 14 J hrs. by slow. See Valencia. From Liverpool. Frequent sailings, not recommended. From Cadiz, Malaga , Alicante, steamers of the Spanish Transatlantic Company (A. Lopez and Co. ) From Balearic Islands : from Palma twice a week, in 16 hours. Fares, 28 pesetas and 20 pesetas. From Menorca (Port Mahori), touching at Alcudia, weekly ; fare, 40 pesetas. From Tortosa, touching at Sitjes, Villanueva, Tarragona (in 5 to 6 hrs., twice a week), and Amposta, twice a month, no fixed day; offices Calle de Ases No. 1. There are also direct steamers from Hamburg, South- ampton, etc., and others, stopping at intermediate ports, which have no regular days, and are advertised in the local papers. N. B. For all these and several other steam services consult advertisements in daily papers and rail- way guides, as they are constantly- changed. Also inspect steamer, if possible, before securing passage, as accommodation is uncertain. From the French Pyrenees, walking and riding. A. Toulouse or Ax to Barcelona by Puycerda and Valley of Andorre. Toulouse to Ax. The railway is open between Toulouse and Foix ; trains run in 3 hrs. 15 min. Fares, ist cl., gfr. 300. ; 2d cl., 6fr. 950. ; sd cl., sfr. toe. There are 3 daily dil. between Foix and Ax during the season, and one (?) daily all the year round. Distances. Kil. Miles. Toulouse to Foix . 82 51 Tarascon 16 10 Ussat .... 3 2 Les Cabannes ..74 Ax . .1610 77 At Ussat, Hotel Cassagne. From Les Cabannes, the Pic St. Barthelemy or Pic de Tabe, 7707 ft., which presents an admirable panorama, may be conveniently ascended ; 6 hrs. to ascend, and 4 hrs. to return. Ruins of the castle of Lordart, also worth a visit. A x , a small thermal establishment, 2329 ft. above the sea. Hotel : Sicre ; room and board, 6fr. per diem. It is one of the most remarkable thermal sites in the French Pyrenees. The scenery is extremely beautiful. The hottest spring is i68'4 Fahr. Now proceed to valley of Andorre by the Port de Salden, 16 hours' journey. Better to make two days, and sleep at Canillo, 9 hrs. 30 min. Carriage road as far as Merens, 8 kil. 5 m. ; thence mountain path practicable for horses. The road ascends the right bank of the Ariege, crosses the stream by a stone bridge, and i hr. 30 min. after again crossing, is Merens, which has 700 inhab., and is 3560 ft. in height by a rough ascent ; 2 hrs. more to Hospitalet, the last French village. About 5 min. bring you to the bridge of Cerda and douane station. Here branch two roads ; that to the left crossing the Ariege, leads by Puycerda. Continue to ascend to the right ; 2j hrs. to Rochers d'Avignoles or Pourtailles, where the Ariege takes its rise. Here two gorges open ; that to the left leads, by a longer though somewhat easier road, into the valley of Andorre, over the Port de Framiguel. Take to the right ; cross a plateau, follow the stream of the Valira, and descend into the upper valley of Andorre. The narrow gorge to the left, with forests, is the Spanish issue of Port Framiguel. Before you rises the snowy Mount Rialp ; the Port of Salden is 8202 ft. ; 2$ hours' descent to the wretched hamlet of Salden. Follow the course of the stream, and reach Canilio to sleep ; 600 inhab. ; belongs to Andorre ; lodg- ings. Next morning cross, on leaving, the stream of the Valira, pass by Chapel of Miri- chel, a shrine high in repute ; pass also villages of En Camp, picturesquely placed, and Las Escaldas, a thermal establishment. 3 hrs. after leaving Canillo, Andorre is reached, which is the capital of the republic. This worthy pendant of the republic of San Marino, which Napoleon is said to have spared because it was * une curiosite politique,' extends to 25 m. to W., and 20 m. N. to S. ; population about 6000, and the army is of 600 men ; drums, flags, uniforms, etc., we should say arms, almost, are not required. The republic was first enfranchised by Charlemagne, and a charter granted by Louis le "De"bonnaire. It pays a yearly tribute of 48ofr. to France, and g6ofr. to the Prince Bishop of Urgel. There aje no monuments, no manufactures, no trade to speak of. The people are quiet, and occu- 40 BARCELONA ROUTES. pied in pastoral or agricultural pursuits. The capital, Andorre, has 850 inhab. From Andorra to Urgel a mule-path along the Valira, in 6 hrs. Urgel to Puycerda along the river Segre, 25 m. in 6 hrs. , whence to Barcelona. B. Ax to Barcelona by Puycerda. Distance 23! m. ; time 10 hrs. mule-track. As far as Hospitalet, see above. Cross the stream by Pont de Cerda, and take to left, ascending to Col de Piqmorin by a zigzag road. After hav- ing crossed (45 mb.) between a peak on left and flat-topped summit on right, traverse a plateau, and 15 min. after reach the Col, height, 6293 ft., between Pic de Fronfride, 8380 ft. to the S., and the Pic Sabarthe, 8365 ft. to the N., forming the limits of the departments of Ariege and the Pyre*ne"es Orien- tales. Close by is the douane station. De- scend into the valley of the Segre, 25 m. after is reached village of Porte", and ruined castle of Cardogne on opposite side of the gorge of Fondvive, at the head of which are, mountain of Lanoux, 9374 ft, and of Pedroux, 9311 ft. Follow down the stream, 30 min. after reach Porta on left bank of Segre, 4950 ft. Here the gorge becomes very wild, a chaos of huge rocks showing conspicuous traces of glacier action. Farther down are the Tours de Carol, erected in commemoration of a victory here gained by Charlemagne over the Moors. Cross the canal, leave on left the route to Bourg Madame, and reach Puycerda, whence to Perpignan by daily dil., 62 m. C. From Bagneres ds Luchon, by the valleys of La Noguera, Pallareza, and of Aran. Lu- chon to Portillon ; this pass is practicable in all weather, and a guide is not indispensable ; dis- tance, i hr. 5 min. To Bosost, 2 hrs. (H6tel du Commerce, decent but dear), quite a Spanish town, indifferent. There are three routes from Luchon to Bosost, one by the Portillon is the shortest ; on horse or foot, 8| m. , 3} to 4 hrs. ; another by La Bacanere, on foot ; the scenery is finer, fatigue greater. The third is by Pont de Roi, and St. Beat ; good carriage -road, 25 m. A temps convert is recommended to avoid heat and dust. To Viella, i hr. from Artias; from this to Salardu, first French village, i hr. 10 min. Now reach Col de Plat de Berch. To Alos, last French douane station in valley of Aneu, about 3 hrs., then Gil, 40 min. ; Gurren, 20 min. ; Isabarre, hr. ; Esterri de Ancu, 40 min. Of the two roads here, take the left one : to Escalo, 2 hrs. ; to Llaborsi, 2 hrs. ; sleep there. Next day, to San Juan de Lerra, and leaving to right road to Sort, pro- ceed tlirough the Col de la Besseta, then 10 Castellbo, then by a good mule-path to Villa- mitjana; to Urgel and Barcelona there is a road from Ame'lie-les-Bains, distance 147^ kil. Kil. 4 Amdlie to Aries .... La Tech The Canigou, 9144 ft , may be ascended from this by way of Corsair. Prats de Mollo .... 7 Camprodon. . 19* Barcelona . . . . - 105 72! m. 147^ N.B. Pedestrians may ascend the Canigou, by way of Prats de Mollo to Vernet, 9 hrs. From Vernet to Perpignan, daily public con- veyances, price 8fr., 33^ m. ; time 4 hrs. 25 m. For more details and other routes, see Joanne's ' Itineraire/ i vol. with plans and maps, lofr. ; Dr. Lambron's work, together with Mr. Packe's Guide to the Pyrenees, Longman, London, 1867, new edition with maps, diagram, and tables. For ascensions in this part of the Pyrenees, we very warmly recommend Comte H. Russell Killough's special work on the sub- ject, ' Les Grandes Ascensions/ with 12 maps, i vol. 4fr. Also for other Pyrenean routes from France into Spain, see Zaragoza, 'Aragon? From Camprodon and Vich. Camprodon, 4000 inhab., on left bank of the Riutort, most uninteresting ; dil. to San Juan de las Abadesas, which is close to an important coal mine, one hr.'s distance, of n kil. extent. Ripoll to Puycerda, a very bad carretera road. The gorge called Las Cobas de Ribas is very imposing. Ripoll. 1200 inhab. at the confluence of the Ter and Fresser. During the civil war this city was entirely burnt up, and is being slowly rebuilt again. See the ruins of a magnificent Benedictine monastery founded by Count Wifred El Velloso, which became the Escorial or burial-house of the Counts of ^Barcelona. The capitals of columns are most elaborately worked out with human and allegorical heads ; the central nave is of Qth and zoth century, the transept and apse of the nth. Vich. Inn: Fonda de la Plaza, fair. 13,100 inhab., Bishop's See : the plains around are watered by the Ter, andTrom them the Mon- seny and Pyrenees may be seen. Vich, the Ro- man Ausa, and Gothic Ausona, became Vicus- Ausone, and was under the exclusive jurisdic- tion of the Bishop, though the upper portion belonged to the Moncada family. It finally be- came the property of the crown, under Jaime II., about 1450. The streets are narrow and ill-paved ; the only interesting sight here is the cathedral, which was built about 1040, but re- paired and modernised about the end of the i8th century ; who the architect was is not known. We only know that in 1325, the maestro mayor IJpbmVorgL BARCELONA. 41 was Ramon Desping, and in 1333 one Lademosa. The outside is very indifferent ; the interior is divided into three naves, which are bold and elegant. The transept is formed by lofty pillars, somewhat thin ; the Gothic cloisters are of the richest and most elegant character. They were completed in 1340. Most of the former sepul- chres disappeared when the cathedral was re- paired, and then also were blocked up the sub- terraneous chapels, amongst which was the celebrated Camilla de San Nicolas, where the matutine or popular masses were celebrated, in the beginning of the i4th century, on the festival of St. Stephen, and the epistle of his martyrdom was sung in Limousin of the i3th century. The Capilla del Santo Espiritu is a fine building, and dates 1344-1351. In the ar- chivo and library are kept a Bible of the- isth century, very richly illuminated, the poem of Dande de Prades, and a curious book on Cetreria. In the centre of the cloisters observe the fine monument to the Catalan philosopher Balmes. Some quaint old houses in the Plaza Mayor. Granollers, capital of the Valles, 6000 inhab., is uninteresting : church of the izth century. In the vicinity are the celebrated springs of Caldas (hot springs) de Monbuy (see Mineral Establishments, General Information). From Puycerdd and Urgel. Puycerdd^ 2500 inhab., 1242 metres (4085 ft.) high ; a very wretched, dirty village, with an indifferent church of Sta. Barbara. From this to Urgel by a mule-path ; excellent trout-fishing and shooting. Go to Bellver by a carriageable road. Bellver, 1919 inhab., ruins of a mediaeval castle ; magnificent and extensive views are obtained from the town, whence its graphic name. Then through a defile to Puente de Var, after crossing Martinet ; then by the right bank of the Segre to Urgel. Urgel, or Seu (see of Urgel), is a bishop's see, 3000 inhab. The cathedral is indifferent ; the cloisters of 1 3th century. Two m. W. are the three forts which defend the city, the Citadel, the Castillo, and the Torra de Solsona. Proceed to Solsona, 2671 inhab. Cardona, 4366 inhab., close to river Cardoner. Its Castillo is very strongly built, and situated N.E. Dil. for and from Puycerda two a week. From Cardona to Manresa, and then by rail to Barcelona in 2 hrs., five trains a day : line from Zaragoza to Barce- lona. There is a second road from and to Vich. Vich to Granollers by rail. From or to Martorell. By rail ; dis- tance, 33 kil. ; time, about 1 hr. ; fares from 14r. 82c. to 9r. 35c. Six trains per day, and one more on holidays. (For subsequent descrip. see p. 473.) BARCELONA. Capital of Province of same name. Population, 430,000. Distances Madrid, 440 miles (23 hours) ; Paris, 25 hours ; Pamplona, 339 miles (14 hours). Connected by rail with all the principal towns on the coast. Steamers to various Mediterranean ports, including the Balearic Islands. Kail-way Stations, &c. For the French line, Granollers, Valencia, Tar- ragona, etc. , the Central Station behind the Plaza del Palacio ; for the Zaragoza and Madrid line, Calle de Villanueva ; for Sarria, Plaza de Cataluna ; for the Villanueva (coast) line, Muelle San Bertran. Omnibuses, 2r. per person ; Ir. to 4r. each parcel, according to size and weight, a tariff; porters (called faquines) carry luggage to or from hotels for 5r., a tariff also ; to boatmen, 2r. per person, 2r. per parcel ; to load or unload, 2r. a parcel. Settle price beforehand, or ask for tariff. Hotels. 1st, Delas Cuatro Naciones, on Rambla del Centro, kept by Italians ; excellent situation, aspect to east ; few fireplaces. A good hotel, pension and service from 50 reals per day upwards ; continental papers taken ; commission- aires : Central y Falcon and Del Oriente, both on the Rambla, fair, not so good as the Cuatro Naciones, pension from 30 reals upwards : Peninsular and De Espana, good Spanish hotels, Spanish cookery. Several good Casas de Hues- pedes (boarding-houses) ; the two best are La Americana, Rambla del Centro, 36, and the Dormitorio San Francisco, 6. In all, French and Italian spoken. N.B. There are usually no female servants in the hotels kept by Italians, but ladies may obtain them by applica- tion at the bureau. Lodgings. Are all very second-rate ; BARCELONA. pretty villas, mostly unfurnished, are to let in Paseo de Gracia and other suburbs for 3 to 5 a-month : they are advertised in local papers. Post Office. Plaza de Cataluna, close to the Paseo de Gracia ; open from 8 A.M. to 4 P.M., and again for an un- certain time at 8 P.M. Passports asked for. Letters can also be posted at all estancos. Three collections and de- liveries daily. English letters delivered at noon, and must be posted before 1 o'clock. Two days' post to London. Telegraph Office. Rambla de Santa Monica, 22 ; open day and night. History. Barcelona is said by the learned to have been founded by the Carthaginian Hamilcar, surnamed Barca (fulmen Latine), a common family name with the Carthaginians, according to Niebuhr, Heeren, etc., about the year 237 B.C., according to Romey. Caesar Augustus raised it to a * colonia, ' with the names of Julia Augusta, Pia, Fa- ventia, etc. Its importance now daily increased, and there are many vestiges, such as slabs, fragments of altars, col- umns, etc., of that time, which are so many evidences of its prosperity under the Romans. Ataulfo, the first king of the Goths, chose it as his court, and made it the capital of Hispana-Gothia, sub- sequently called Septimania. Shortly after 713, Barcelona fell into the hands of Abdul- Aziz. The Moors did not retain it long ; for Charlemagne, on the death of his father, thought the oppor- tunity a favourable one to extend his dominions, and with the pretext of coming in aid to his Christian brethren, he and his son Ludivic expelled the infidel in 801, who had ruled for 88 years only, and then quietly added the city he had come to free to his duchy of Acquitaine, of which it became the head. * Dios me libre de mis amigos, que yo me librare de mis enemigos.' Barcelona was now governed by counts, who in 874 became hereditary, when Charles the Bold made it an independ- ent kingdom in favour of and to reward Count Wilfred el Yelloso, who had so effectually aided him against the Nor- mans. One of its greatest counts, Ramon Berenguer IY. (12th century), united the crowns of Cataluna to Aragon by marriage with Petronila, the heiress to this latter kingdom. In his reign, Barcelona became the emporium of Southern Europe, and the capital of the most powerful of maritime nations. Dockyards, arsenals, and warehouses, were numerous, and on a grand scale, for the trade, especially with the Levant, was very great ; and Barcelona was the rival of Genoa and Venice. It became part of the kingdom when Ferdinand of Aragon espoused Isabella of Castile. Always more or less ill-disposed, but more especially since Philip III., Cata- luna has often endeavoured to regain her former independence, and gave her interest and money at one time to the French, at another to the Spaniard, whichever held out the better prospect of attaining that end. The principado has been always a focus of revolution, democracy, and pronunciamientos. Barcelona, in the middle ages, was thronged with provencal troubadors 'de la gaye sciense,' and councillors and statesmen who framed the laws of the ' Consulado del Mar, ' a commercial code which dates 1279, and was re- spected and imitated everywhere. With reference to this, see *le Codigo de las Costumbres Maritimas de Barcelona/ etc., in Spanish and the original Limousin, by Cap- mani y Monpalau ; Madrid 1791, 2 vols. in 410 ; and about the early trade and navy, see ' Memorias historicas sobre la Marina, Co- rn ercio/ etc., of Barcelona by same author ; Madrid, Sancha, 1779, 4 vols. in 4to, one of the most important works ever published on trade and navy in the middle ages. D. Victor Balag- ner's ' Historia de Cataluna,' of which a new edition has been published in 1888, should also be consulted. P>ARCELONA. In many and important armadas, some numbering 200 sail, 80 and more large galleys were often equipped here. Ara gon (when comprising Cataluna) was very proud, and justly so, of its pre eminence on the sea ; and such was the jealousy felt at Barcelona when the rival Castile had lent its aid, money, and fleet to Columbus, that though it was here that he was received by the Catholic kings, to whom he had given a world, with all 'the pomp and circum- stance ' so brilliantly described by "W. Irving, there is no notice of such an event to be found either in the archives of the city or those of Aragon. The Dietaria, of 1492 is likewise disdainfully silent on this point. (See Major's 'Select Letters of Christ. Columbus,' Hackluyt Soc. 1857. Barcelona was at an early period a centre of learning, and one of the first cities of Spain where printing was introduced, and some of the best publishers, especi- ally of illustrated and artistic works, Catalan and Spanish, are still to be found here. [The bibliophile should not neglect to secure their catalogues and visit their establish- ments.] Here, also, January 17, 1543, a ship of 200 tons was launched, which was made to move by means of steam. Its inventor was Blasco de Garay, and the experiment took place in the presence of a committee named by Charles V. and Philip II. (The memoir which contains these and other details is at Simancas. ) The invention consisted of a large boiler, which moved by steam two wheels placed at the sides of the vessel. The experiment seems to have answered, but the trial was discouraged by the king's treasurer, Eavago, who was, for some personal motive, hostile to the inventor, and drew up a report in which he states that the speed did not exceed two leagues in three hours, that the machinery was too complicated, and the boiler likely to burst. Charles V., who was then absorbed in political schemes of greater moment, did not examine the thing with attention, but paid Garay all expenses, and gave him promotion and a present of 200,000 maravedis. But he was discouraged, and the secret, whatever it was, died with him. Andrea Navagero, Venetian ambassador to Charles V., speaks thus of this city, which he visited in 1526 : * ill bellissima citta ed in bellissimo sito ; ed ha gran copia di giardini belissimi, di mirti, aranci, e cedri ; le case buone e comode, fabbricate di pietra, e non di terra, come nel resto di Catalogna. ' General Description. Barcelona is the second largest city in Spain, and the first in a commercial view. It is most prosperous and improving, and although called the Manchester of Span- ish Lancashire (Cataluna), it is free from the usual annoyances and appear- ances characteristic of manufacturing towns. The mills (cotton, silk, and woollen) are situated at some distance outside the walls, and the sons of toil, waggoners, wharfingers, and the sea- faring population, are confined within the suburbs. The happy situation of the city on the shores of the Mediter- ranean, and communicating at the same time with the Atlantic ports by railway ; its vicinity to France and Italy ; the facilities of living, the climate mild in winter and agreeable at all seasons ; the enlightened, kind, and bold-hearted, enterprising people who are seen in so thriving a condition, are all so many inducements for the invalid and general tourist to linger here. "VVe must add the no less important advan- tages of which other medical stations, such as Malaga, Alicante, etc., are de- prived, viz., several well- organised libra- ries, and collections of natural history and antiquities, a first-rate opera-house, 44 BARCELONA. and a variety of excursions in the envi- rons. Of society, which is after all the least interesting feature in a country, there is little, though the Barcelonese are passionately fond of music, dancing, and dress. On the other hand, mere sight-seers must remain comparatively idle here, as most of this handsome city has been either modernised or en- tirely rebuilt, saving the tortuous and narrow but picturesque quarters in- habited by the lower classes ; and besides the cathedral and one or two other churches (which are certainly in- teresting examples of Catalonian- Gothic architecture), there are few ob- jects that deserve the attention of the artist. On quitting Barcelona, July 1844, Washington Irving gave his opinion of the city thus : ' I leave this beautiful city with regret. . . . Indeed, one enjoys the very poetry of existence in these soft southern climates which border the Mediterranean. All here is picture and romance. Nothing has given me greater delight than occa- sional evening drives with some of my diplomatic colleagues to those country- seats, or torres, as they are called, situ- ated on the slopes of the hills, two or three miles from the city, surrounded by groves of oranges, citrons, figs, po- megranates, etc., with terraced gardens gay with flowers and fountains. Here we would sit on the lofty terraces over- looking the rich and varied plain, the distant city gilded by the setting sun, and the blue sea beyond. Nothing can be purer and softer and sweeter than the evening air inhaled in these favoured retreats.' Cervantes, who knew every town in Spain, and was a great traveller for his day, describes it enthusiastically as the ' flor de las bellas ciudades del mundo, honra de Espana, regalo y de- licia de sus moradores y satisfaccion de todo aquello que de una grande, famosa, rica y bien fundada ciudad puede pedir un discrete y curioso deseo.' Climate. Though sheltered on the western side by the high hill of Mont- juich, Barcelona is somewhat exposed to the north and east winds. The tem- perature is very mild ; it snows very seldom ; the heat in summer seldom ex- ceeds 31 Cent. (87 Fahr.), or falls be- low 2 under zero (28 Fahr). The average of rainy days in the year is 69. The climate is sufficiently dry, with occasional fogs however ; it is not so bracing as Tarragona, but almost en- tirely free from cold winds. The most prevalent diseases are catarrhal, rheumatic, dyspeptic, and nervous affections. January is about the only month to avoid, especially in bronchial complaints. Barcelona is lat. 41 22' 58" K, long. 2 8' 11" E. The orange and palm grow very well. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS MADE AT THE UNIVERSITY OF BARCELONA. Centigrade Thermometer . Temperature of Air. Months. Aver- Maxi- Mini- Oscil. age. mum. mum. December 10.4 16.7 2.8 13.9 January February 10.6 ii. i 16.1 15.0 k 11.7 8-3 March . 12.7 17.8 7.8 IO.O April . 14.1 18.3 9.4 8.9 May . 17.6 23-9 9-4 14-5 June July . 21. 6 24.1 27.2 28.3 15-0 19.4 12.2 8.9 August 25-9 31.0 22.0 9.0 September 22.1 29.0 15-6 13-4 October . 19-5 24-5 10.8 13-7 November 2C.O 8.0 12. Average pressure of atmosphere . 760. 59 temperature of year . . 16.9 Maximum temperature, August 10 31.0 Minimum temperature, December 2.8 Winds in year : W. 96 days ; E. 51 ; S.E. 49; S.W. 40; N. 3 8;N.E. 37 ;N.W. 34; I S. 24. BARCELONA. Streets, Squares, etc. The priii cipal streets are very well paved, wide, and long, such as CalU de Fernando, which is the handsomest, and where there are some Parisian-looking shops ; Calle Aridia, which runs parallel with the Muralla del Mar ; the Rambla, which is a fine broad boulevard, with trees and a promenade in the centre, and receives different names to designate portions of it, such as Rambla del Centra, de los CapucMnos, etc. It is 1120 metres (1100 yards) long, and runs in a straight line to the sea. It is a constant pro- menade, especially towards the evening ; and here the best hotels, theatres, dili- gence offices, etc., are situated. Calle de la Plateria is the locaU of the silver- smiths, in whose shops amateurs of vertu now and then pick up a fine speci- men of silversmith-work of former times. See also the earrings worn by the payesas or country-women, of antique form. The principal squares are Plaza de Palacio, with a Carara marble fountain in the centre, representing the genii of the four provinces of Cataluna, with attributes, flowers, etc., executed by Italian artists. A winged genius crowns the monument, on the principal front of which is the escutcheon of the Mar- quis of Campo-Sagrado, formerly Capt. - General of Cataluna, with the proud motto of his family, ' Despues de Dios la Casa de Quir6s. ' Plaza Real, sur- rounded by handsome new houses with arcades, in imitation of the Palais Royal in Paris, with a fine monument in the centre erected to the memory of the Catholic kings, with bassi-relievi repre- senting some of the principal events of their reign, and Ferdinand the Catholic's statue on the summit. Plaza del Teatro, close to Hotel de las Cuatro Naciones ; in centre an Egyptian-looking pyramidal monument crowned with an allegorical statue of Barcelona ; this fountain is called ' Font del Veil ' in Catalan. In Plaza de Medinaceli there is a paltry statue raised in 1851 to Galcerau Mar- quet, one of the greatest seamen Cata- luna has produced. The obelisk in Plaza de San Pedro dates 1672, and the statue is of Sta. Eulalia, the tutelar of Bar- celona. Fortress. From its situation and importance, Barcelona has been very strongly fortified. On the S. side are the Atarazanas near Monjuich. The Atarazanas were built by Jaime el Conquistador, 1243, as arsenals for the navy, and extended formerly to Plaza de Palacio. The name Arabice means dockyards, whence the Catalan dressana and the Spanish darsena. These could hold already, in the time of James II., 25 large galleys under shelter and se- cure. A large galley used to cost then (14th century) about 23,780r., and the yearly expense (seamen, rigging, etc.) about 18,120r. Now the Atarazanas comprise infantry and cavalry barracks (7000 men in all). Its construction, though ancient, is interesting. The citadel was begun in 1715, and designed by Philip V.'s minister, Olivares, to have command over the city. It has long been a simple cuartel, and is now in process of demolition. The Fuerte de Carlos and Fuerte Pio were destined to cut communications between Barcelona and the country and attacks by the old French road. The Castle of Monjuich, S. of the town, is placed on an isolated hill about 735 ft. above the level of the sea. It is of irregular form, with a reduit composed of four fronts, to the sea, and port, and to the country. This is truly the most important fortification, and he who holds it holds the whole city in check and in his power, for from its great elevation and proximity the curved fires (the direct ones would not be so certain) could destroy the city. The name is said by some to mean 46 BARCELONA, Mons Jovis, from a temple raised to Jupiter on that hill, and by others Hill of the Jews, whose cemetery was for- merly situated between the hill and the city. When the Archduke, Charles of Austria, who claimed from Philip V. the Spanish crown, landed close by Badalona (Sept. 1705), Lord Peter- borough attacked Monjuich, and, by a daring surprise, took it on the 14th of that same month, obliging the Spanish general Yelasco to abandon Barcelona. In the Peninsular war it was taken by Duhesme, by a stratagem not unlike that used towards Pamplona (1808), and surrendered to Marshal Monez by Mina in 1823. The Port. The port has been, and continues to be, yearly improved. It is large, commodious ; but the bar at the entrance is not without danger, and the assistance of pilots is deemed neces- sary to enter or go out. The harbour is formed by a jetty of considerable length, with a lighthouse and some batteries. On one side, E., extends the well-peopled barrio or quartier called Barceloneta, and on the opposite is the fort of Atarazanas, and the quays called Muralla del Mar. In the 14th and 15th centuries, when the port was always crowded with fleets of merchant- men, the entrance was not above 8^ ft. deep, and the sandbanks or bar called tasca (atascar, from stancare) was a great natural defence. Though granted in 1438 by Alfonso V. of Aragon, the works for the mole did not begin before the 20th September 1474, after the de- signs and under the direction of an engineer from Alexandria, called Itacio; but this mole was a very imperfect work, and even after several augmentations and much expense, it was, we read in Capmany, about 600 feet long in the end of 17th century ; though in the accu- rate 'Life of the Duke of Osuna, 5 written in Italian by Leti, Amsterdam, 1700, 400 only. The works were re newed in 1753, and completed in 1754. Several additions have been but re- cently finished. The depth of water within the mole is from 18 ft. to 20 ft. Vessels of no great size moor at a short distance from the mole, but larger ships must anchor outside. The Trade is brisk, and the railways, which now centre in Barcelona, will increase it. The principal imports are raw cotton and colonial products, prin- cipally from Cuba and Puerto Eico ; iron, machinery, coal, from England. Cataluna is the greatest manufacturing centre in Spain, and principal seat of the cotton trade, in which over 100,000 persons are engaged. The exports are wrought silks, cotton stuffs, soap, chemicals, firearms, paper, etc., al- monds, nuts, etc. The annual number of ships of all nations entering and leaving the port is about 4500, with a tonnage of about 1,700,000. See for more details, 'Revistade Estadistica, ' the Catalonian one as well as that pub- lished at Madrid ; also the Consular and Commercial Reports published yearly in England. The great International Exhibition of 1888 was a failure so far as its immediate financial results were concerned, but has already yielded practical value in the encouragement of trade and the development of liberal opinions. Barcelona has ever been a fierce opponent of Free Trade, of which Bilbao is the Spanish champion. Sights The Cathedral ; Churches ; Lonja ; Casa de la Diputacicn, etc. ; University ; Public Gardens ; old houses and antiquities. The Cathedral (la Seu or Seo). The old cathedral of Barcelona was con- verted by the Moors into a mosque, and partly rebuilt and augmented by Count Ramon Berenguer I. But as the im- portance of the city grew with the BARCELONA CATHEDRAL. establishment of the Court of Aragon, James II., in 1298, laid the first stone of a new cathedral, which was finished in 1448. Style. The style is Gothic, or what we should more appropriately call Catalonian, and it exhibits the characteristics of the first and latter period of that style in Spain. It is sober, elegant, harmonious, and simple; not crowded with sculpturing and orna- mentation, as was the case at the close of the 14th century, and it mostly be- longs to the best and purest period of ogival architecture. There are portions left unfinished, such as the grand portal, etc., and others of the vilest churrigue- resque, as the lateral chapels, etc. On the whole, there are here no great speci- mens of genius or especial taste. Exterior. It is approached, as is usual in Cataluna, by an elevated flight of steps, which renders the edifice more effective. The principal fa9ade was never finished. The design for the portal is kept in the archives of the cathedral. Though much effaced by time and neglect, it exhibits a magnifi- cent specimen of the florid style of the 15th century. It is ascribed to Barto- lome Gual and Roque. The door lead- ing to the cloister from Calle del Obispo is Byzantine, as is the small belfry, the bell of which is the oldest in Barcelona. The "belfry towers are very lofty, and date end of 14th century. The present clock is comparatively modern, but the former one was the oldest known in Spain, dated 1393, and therefore older than that at Seville. (Capmany, 'Mem. Hist.,' book iv.) At each side of the Portal de la Inquisition is a slab with inscription containing the date May 1298, when the cathedral was begun, and the other the continuance or prose- cution of the works in 1329. Over the portal there is a relievo, representing, though most rudely rendered, the le- gendary fight between Yilardell and the Dragon. This monster was let loose by the Moors, when this hero was obliged to abandon to them his castle in the Vales. God appearing to him under the garb of a pauper, tried first his charity, % and being satisfied, gave him a miracu- lous sword, which cleft rocks and the thickest trees. He then met the dragon and killed him, upon which, as he was more of a huntsman than a pious gentle- man, he gave vent to his joy, and exclaimed, * Well done, mighty sword, and not less mighty arm of Vilardell ! ' Just then he felt on his arm some drops from the dragon's blood which dripped from the blade he held up in exultation ; and as it was the subtlest poison he died instantly. God thus * castigando su vanagloria. The name of the architect who de- signed the cathedral is not ascertained. The Mallorquin Jaime Fabre (1317) is known to have directed the works in the beginning. In 1388, the Maestro Roque succeeded him. Escuder (middle of 15th century) is the last architect mentioned in the archives. The cathe- dral was first named Sta. Cruz, to which the name of Sta. Eulalia was added when this saint's body was brought to this church. Interior. The plan is cruciform. The church, though exclusively Catalan as to details, is not Spanish in plan, but approaches rather the French arrange- ment of an aisle and chapels round the apse. Such is at least Mr. Street's opinion. It is divided into three spa- cious naves, formed by somewhat mas- sive pillars, with elegant shafts semi- attached and topped by elaborately- worked capitals, from which nineteen arches spring to form a vaulted roof. The presbytery is surrounded by ten columns of a good style. The portion between the choir and the principal entrance dates 1420; but some authors are of opinion that it is of 1329. Observe the BARCELONA CATHEDRAL. bold and effective arch which rests upon the two first piers, and the open-work clerestory or balustrade over the portal and its lateral chapels. Under the' high altar is a crypt called Capilla and Sepulcro de Sta. Eulalia. It is not always shown to visitors, and is not remarkable. It was built and completed 1338, by Fabre, and the body of the saint removed in following year from the church of Sta. Maria del Mar, where it had been kept since 878. The general plan and design are like that of the sepulchre of SS. Peter and Paul in the Vatican. The urn is of alabaster, with many mezzi-relievi re- presenting scenes from the life of the saint. It is lighted up by lamps, which burn without intermission. ' The plan- ning of the nave, ' says Street, * is very peculiar. The chapels in the south aisle have a row of other chapels, which open into the cloister, placed back to back with them, and the windows which light the former open into the latter, showing, when seen from the nave cha- pels, their glass ; and when seen from the cloister chapels, the dark piercings of their openings. The arrangement is extremely picturesque. ' The transepts show themselves only on the ground- plan, where they form porches. High Altar. The arches of the apse are too narrow and poor ; indeed, the columns throughout are deficient in the distribution of their very thin mould- ings. The high altar forms a pleasing ensemble of pillarets and open-work ornamentation. The form is that of a temple, in the centre of which, above the tabernacle, is a picture of the cruci- fixion. The colour of the stone adds to the general sombre effect. The Choir is of good proportions, and deserves attention. The canopies of the stalls of the upper row are by the German sculptors, Michael Loker and Johan Friedrich (1487). The work is most excellent. The pinnacles and canopies were pronounced faulty by the chapter, who did not pay the sculptor the full amount agreed upon. The lower row was sculptured by Matias Bonafe, 1483. In the agreement passed between him and the chapter, a curious clause occurs, by which the sculptor was forbidden to introduce images, figures, or beasts of any kind, and to limit himself to the leaf ornamentation. The pulpit is rich, but indifferent. The staircase leading to it, with its arched doorway, traceried handrail, and open iron-work door, should be carefully noticed. On the back of each stall is the painted shield of each of the knights of the Golden Fleece, who held in this choir a general assembly or chapter, presided over by Charles V., March 5, 1519. This was a grand scene, fit for a painter to take up. The walls were hung with rich tapestries and velvets. On one side rose the vacant throne, canopied with black velvet hangings of Maximilian I. On the opposite side, on one of brocade, sat Charles V., then only king of Spain, and around him Christian King of Denmark, Sigismund King of Poland, the Prince of Orange, Duke of Alba, of Frias, Cruz, and the flower of the nobility of Spain and Flanders. Kings, on entering Barcelona for the first time, were obliged to take the oath to defend and never transgress the popular laws (fueros) of Barcelona ; the councils (Jura) used to take place in different parts of the city, and before the High Altar in this cathedral. When Charles V., in 1519, visited the city, he wished to be received, not as a king, but as one of the former counts ; ' for, ' said he, * I would rather be count of Barcelona than king of the Romans.' Several councils have taken place here. On June 20, 1525, Francis I. of France, then a prisoner, heard mass in the chapel of Sta. Eulalia. BARCELONA CATHEDRAL. The Trascoro is a good specimen of the Revival in Spain, and the work of Pedro Vilar of Zaragoza, who followed the designs of Bartolome Ordano, date 1564. It is composed of a series of bassi-relievi representing scenes from the life of Sta. Eulalia, on white marble, and with columns of the Doric order. The tombs in the cathedral are mostly indifferent. Close to the sacristy are those of Berenguer el Viejo and Almodis his wife ; the inscriptions are modern. In a chapel, close to that of San Olaguer, is an elegant tomb of Dona Sancha de Cabrera, Senora de Novalles ; a finer one is that of Bishop Escalas, in the Chapel de los Innocents, very elaborately sculptured, the details of dress, beard, hair, etc., being very delicate Gothic. That of San Olaguer, whose body eight centuries have not been able to decom- pose, is indifferent ; his body may be easily seen, dressed in pontificalibus, from the camarin of the altar. The stained windows are amongst the finest in Spain, and date between 1418 and 1560. They are not of large size, but the richness of their blues, purples, and reds, is as fresh as when first they were painted. The chapels are indif- ferent, mostly churrigueresque. See behind the apse (which is itself one of the best things in the cathedral) the crucifix called Cristo de Lepanto. It was carried on the prow of the flagship of D. Juan of Austria, at the battle of Lepanto. It is violently inclined, be- cause as the Moors directed their mus- ketry against the sacred image, the image turned aside, and thus avoided the infidels' bullets. The ultra faithful believe that the small galley placed here also moves and turns according to the wind ! Amongst the curiosities (curio- sidades), see an infant Jesus, to which Ferdinand VII. gave the insignia of field-marshal, and his queen, Amelie of Saxony, the badge of Maria Luisa. The reliquaries are fine. The paintings, few and of no great merit, are in Capilla de San Olaguer, some pictures by Ant. Viladomat (1678 to 1755); the rest in this chapel also, and in that of San Pablo and San Marcos, are by Frail Tramullas of Perpignan, who lived in the 18th century, and his son Manuel. The cloisters are interesting ; they were begun by Roque. In 1432, Gual suc- ceeded him, and they were finished in 1 448 ; they were principally the work of Bishop Sapera. Observe the elegant ogival door on the Calle del Obispo, the first door to left, and Capilla de Sta. Lucia ; this portion is the oldest in the whole edifice. The tombs are indif- ferent. Notice, nevertheless, that of Mossen (abbr. for Mossenyer, or Mon- senyor, my lord) Borra, the nom de guerra of Antonio Tallander, the buffoon of Alfonso V. el Sabio of Aragon, ob. about 1433; see his jocose epitaph, calling him Milesgloriosus, and the bells on his dress. In the chapel of La Concepcion there used to be a picture ordered by the municipality (1651) to be painted in thanksgiving for her intercession in be- half of the city at the time of the plague. It ceased some days after, and the keys of the city, made in silver for the occa- sion, were presented to her. See the fountain de las Ocas (of the Geese). It stands in the centre of a pleasant court full of orange-trees and flowers. The Bishop's Palace, on the S. side of the cloister, retains portions of good late Romanesque arcading. Church, of Sta. Maria del Mar. This church is preferred by some to the cathedral in an architectural light. It was built on or near the site formerly occupied by a smaller church raised, A.D. 1000, by Bishop Accio, to keep the body of St. Eulalia (now in cathedral). It was begun in March 1329, and is one of the few churches built entirely at the ex- pense of the working-classes, the ban* E 50 BARCELONA CHURCHES. taixos or faquines even contributing to it the latter fact being recorded on the door of the principal fagade, where there are sculptured two small bronze figures carrying stone, wood, etc. The name of the architect is not known. In 1379, a great fire burnt up the vestry, altar, choir, and portion of the roof, but by the aid of Pedro IV. el Ceremonioso, the church was repaired and completed, Nov. 9, 1383. The style is Gothic, with a few churrigueresque alterations in the chapels, etc. The church is situ- ated in a square ; the principal facade is plain but elegant, with statues on the sides and over the door. The rose- window is very fine, and was repaired after it had been almost destroyed by an earthquake in 1428. There are four entrances in all ; the portal and side looking towards the market-place, called Born, is quaint. The church is divided into three naves, the piers and shafts are very lofty and elegant, the arches sharply pointed ; the high altar, though it has cost 100,000 ducats, is in bad taste and out of keeping with the rest ; it dates 1637. The choir, by a too rare exception, is happily placed behind the presbytery ; there is a royal pew opposite to the huge organ. The general style of the church is very good and pure, the painted glass fine ; there are five pictures of Viladomat, representing scenes from the Passion, behind the altar, and two others in chapel de San Salvador. Four pictures by Tramullas (son), in chapel de los Corredores de Cambio ; a St. Peter, by Juan Arnau of Barcelona (1595- 1693), in chapel of St. Peter. A good statue of San Alejo, in the Trascoro, by A. Pujol of Villafranca, about 1643 ; the Virgin and Christ Dead, in same por- tion, is by Miguel Sala (1627-1704). The indifferent retablo mayor is by a sculptor who ornamented the poops of the galleys. The sculpture on the organ is of 1560. Sta. Maria del Pino, a fine speci- men of the Gothic, dates 1329-1413. It is also called N". Sra. de los Reyes. The name, del Pi, or Pino, pine, is derived from a tradition, according to which an image of the Virgin was found in a trunk of a pine, some say because the pine IP the emblem of the Catholic faith, ever- green, ever soaring to heaven ; accord- ingly a pine, blessed on Palm Sunday, is every year placed on the highest point of the belfry. It is also said that one of these trees was planted close to it in 1768, and cut down in 1802. The church is of good proportions and elegant. The belfry-tower is fine, massive, and very lofty. The nave consists of seven bays, is 54 ft. wide in the clear, and has an eastern apse of seven sides, is high and spacious, and lighted up by good ogival windows with stained glass. On the altars of the chapels of San Pancracio and San Clemente, Jews had a right to take an oath in any suit with a Chris- tian, validity of wills, etc. The prin- cipal portal is very rich. The relics are curious and kept in silver cases, and rich reliquaries ; amongst them are two thorns from the crown of Jesus, once at St. Denis ; a portion of Christ's gar- ment ; a bit from the pillar against which He was scourged, etc. etc. Be- tween the third and fourth altar, to the right, a tablet on the wall marks the spot where the Barcelonese painter, Viladomat, is buried ob. 1755. The ecclesiologist may also visit San Miguel, which belongs to the transition between the Byzantine and Gothic. The interior indifferent ; a curious mosaic, white and blue, on the pavement, said by the learned to be a remnant of the Temple of Neptune that existed on this spot, and a fine sepulchre of Fran. Coll, a councillor of the Catholic kings and Charles V. ob. 1536. A divine Shep- herdess, by Viladomat, and a painted cupola also by him. BARCELONA PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 51 Los Martires, or San Justo y San Pastor, the earliest Christian church in Barcelona, is a good specimen of Gothic; one nave lofty and wide ; good stained glass ; begun in 1345. A poor fa$ade and a pretty tower on one side. The altar of San Felio had the privilege of serving for the oath taken by Jews on the decalogue placed upon it, also for witnesses of wills made at sea or battle, etc. , and of knights before engaging in a ' battala juzgada, ' not to use any but fair means, and swords neither constel- lated nor enchanted, etc. Five bays ; an apse of five sides. The nave is 43 ft. 6 in. in width in the clear, by some 130 in length. The vaulting quadripartite, with large bosses at the intersection of the ribs, on which are carved subjects from the New Testament. A fine but undersized High Altar. In the Church of Montesion (14th century) is the flag (festum) of I). Juan de Austria and the image of our Lady of Victory, both carried by horse at the battle of Lepanto. In.Santa Ana (1146) is the tomb of Miguel de Boera, who fought at Ravenna under the Catholic king's reign, and commanded Charles Y.'s galleys at the conquests of Tripoli, Bugia, Oran, etc. The cloister is more modern than the other portions of the church. San Pedro de las Puellas ('of the Maiden ') is extra-mural, and on the site where Ludovic Pio encamped his troops in 801, and built a former church. It was so called because destined for a nunnery. The date of its building, and names of founder and architect, are un- known ; about the beginning or middle of the 10th century is the most pro- bable ; the circular dome, vault of S. transept, nave, and western portion of the chancel, are the parts that have been the least altered. The sculpture of the capitals is remarkable, and most Eastern in character. It is said that when the nuns were aware of the probable inva- sion of their convent by Al Mansour's soldiers, who were recruiting for the Balearic harems, they most heroically disfigured themselves, to avoid this shame, by cutting off their noses. Belen. A fine Italian church on the Rambla ; very rich marbles ; Lo- yola's sword. San Pablo del Campo. A most in- teresting relic of the Catalan Roman- esque architecture of the second period. This church originally a Benedictine convent, founded 914 by the Count of Barcelona, Wifred II. was severely injured by Al Mansour in 986, but re- stored by one G. Guiterdo and his wife in 1117, in a way which has allowed it to retain most, if not every portion, of the primitive structure. It is cruciform, with three parallel apses, an octagonal vault on pendants over the crossing. The nave and transepts are covered with a waggon-vault. The "W. front is in- teresting and purely Byzantine, with the exception of the circular window, which has been added. Observe the rude sym- bolical sculpture on and within the massive arch on the sides, the usual figures symbolising the Evangelists, and above the arch a hand, with a cruciform nimbus, giving the benediction. The small cloister on S. side is of llth cen- tury, very Arabic in its details, cusp- ing, and stone work. Observe a 14th century doorway, "W. of cloister, and everything, indeed, connected with this important, though to many tourists not striking, little church. The Lonja, or Exchange. This building rises on the site formerly called ' dels Cambis, ' where merchants trans- acted business 'al fresco.' There was in very early times an Exchange in all the principal cities of Spain, such as that of Madrid, established 1652, Seville BARCELONA PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 1535, Burgos and Bilbao 1494, but the Exchange of Barcelona dates from about 1382, and was established by Pedro IT. of Aragon. The former Exchange was situated near the sea, and was built in 1357. There was a chapel added to the building in 1452, and a portico in 1562. Of this edifice nothing remains save the hall (sala), which was finished in 1383, and escaped the general sweeping modi- fication which began its avenging work in 1772 under the Solers. The style of the modern building is the so-called classic, and of the Tuscan and Ionic orders. The principal entrance is by the plaza of the palace. The faade is fine and effective, and the whole edifice is of stone, with marble here and there. In the court (patio) are statues symboli- cal of the four parts of the world, and several others in the Hall of Sessions, etc. all modern and indifferent, the work of Catalonian sculptors. The Gothic hall is lofty and of good propor- tions, about 116 ft. long by 75 ft. wide. Men of business meet here daily from 1 till 4 P.M. Casa de la Diputacion. Built in the beginning of the 15th century was considerably enlarged at different epochs, which explains the variety of styles, taste, and execution exhibited. It was destined and served as a popular local institution for the Commons of Cataluna, until abolished by Philip Y. in 1714. The name of the architect of the first plan is not known. About 1598, a great portion of the edifice had to be pulled down for enlargement, but Pedro Blay, the architect who carried on the works, left fortunately intact the best portions of the primitive building, such as the lateral fa9ade of St. George, in Calle del Obispo, the gallery round the court of the orange-trees, and the garden. The Roman or classic faade, seen from the Plaza San Jaime is not elegant, but heavy, clumsy, and out of keeping. The work of Blay extends from this fa9ade to the beginning of the grand staircase ; the older portion be- gins at the patio. The front of the chapel of St. George is fine. In the centre is a small ogival door, between two pointed windows separated by pil- larets ; the wall between is worked out like a damask cloth in relievo, and is of two different patterns. This is crown- ed with delicate foliage, and a series of animals, of indifferent execution and out of place. Over them rise ogival, placed within circular, arches, and orna- mented on the sides with cherubs' heads, and surmounted by an antepecho balus- traded with Gothic open-work, tending in character to the plateresque. In the centre of a medallion is rudely sculp- tured St. George and the Dragon ; there are four Evangelists at the angles. The galleries, however much admired for their ingenious construction, were evi- dently the contrary, as the pillars, al- ready bent under the ill- calculated weight, show too well. The chapel it- self is uninteresting, though in it are preserved some curious antiguallas, such as the frontal of St. George, on which is represented his struggle with a lion in defence of a maiden. St. George was the tutelar of the Diputacion, as tradition would have it that he fought the Moors in behalf of the Aragonese and Catalans, and there used to be jousts and tournaments on St. George's Day, which latter is kept up every year. In the Salones del Tribunal of the Audi- en cia are some rich artesonados of the 15th century, and good, but worn-out and effaced, tapestries. The portraits of the kings of Spain, beginning with Ataulfus, are prior to the 16th century. See, too (Salon de Sesiones), a good but unfinished painting by Fortuny, the great Catalan artist, representing the battle of Tetuan. There are other salones and halls, all modern and indif- BARCELONA PRIVATE BUILDINGS. 53 ferent. Observe from Calle del Obispo the elegant Gothic fagade of St. George. The Town Hall (Casas Consistori- ales) is Gothic, of 1373 ; the patio is fine, the principal fa9ade modern. The Council Chamber (Salon de Ciento), 92 ft. x 45 ft., contains a series of por- traits of Catalan celebrities. In the Municipal Archives are a valuable col- lection of documents, dating from 1300. See especially the Rubrica de Bruni- quer, the Libre vert, and Libre vermeil, containing the ancient royal privileges, fueros, etc., of the city. The Palace has been mostly repaired, and this in a very paltry way. The older portion was the palace of the counts of Barcelona, and was built in the 12th century. The church is of a somewhat later period. The painting outside imitates the style of the former fa$ade of stone. The interior is not interesting. The cuarto nave was built in 1549. The former Salon de Emba- jadores is now the church of Sta. Clara. The chapel of Sta. Agueda was the for- mer royal chapel, and exhibits fine specimens of the early Gothic. It is now the Museo Arqueologico provin- cial, with over 1000 specimens of Roman sculpture, mosaics, pottery, etc., and deserves a visit. The University. A conspicuous pile of buildings of quasi - Byzantine character, dating from 1873, stands near the Plaza de Cataluna. While leaving much to be desired in the way of curriculum, this is perhaps the most advanced of all Spanish universities, with a staff of really enlightened pro- fessors, some 2500 students and a fail- library of 200,000 vols. and MSS. It has upwards of 80 primary schools attached to it. Every attention is paid to visitors. See especially the fine stair- case, the Paraninfo, Sala Rectoral, paintings of the modern Spanish school, and MSS, in the library. Private Buildings There are many mansions of the 14th and 15th centuries well worth visiting. The Casa Dalmases, Calle Moncada 20, has a notable fa9ade and most exquisite Renaissance patio ; also some fine but sadly neglected salas within. In the same street are several other specimens of Italian and transitional Gothic man- sions of the Middle Ages, but' none so fine as the Dalmases. The houses of Gralla and Despla have lost most of their ancient magnificence. The former was built about 1306 by the well-known Aragonese architect, Da- mian Forment. The fagade is a good specimen of transitional Gothic. See especially the 14th century patio, still well preserved, with its elegant Corinth- ian columns and Gothic balustrade. Observe also the entrance door. On the pedestals of the columns may be traced the inscriptions, ' Publicae venus- tati' and 'Privatse utilitati ' for public adorning and private use. The Casa de Dusay stands on the site of a castle where the Wall Ghamir was confined. The patio is no longer that which Forment built at the begin- ning of the 16th century. There are still some good specimens of ornament of the Revival. Casa Cardonas, close to Bajada de San Miguel, has also a fine patio, good artesonados, a noble staircase, and windows much orna- mented. Antiquities. These are most seen in museums and private galleries. The older portion of the city lay about the present cathedral. The line of fortifica- tions followed this course Calle de la Tapineria, Escalas de la Seu, Plaza Nueva ; here there was a gate to N. W. flanked by towers, then behind la Palla, Calle des Banys, el Call, to the palace, Plaza de Arrieros, and continuing by the upper part of the hills that are here, went by Calle de Basea and San BARCELONA PROMENADES. Justo to join and meet the other extremity of the circuit at the Arco de la Bajada de la Carcel. In a house No. 10 Calle de Paradis, behind the apse of the cathedral, is a remarkable series of six Roman columns and an architrave, usually assigned to a 'Temple of Hercules ' (!), more probably the remains of some great public work. There are magnificent cloacae, a work ascribed to the Scipios, which run un- der the Rambla (from Raml and Ram- bula, rivula), and through which a man on horseback can easily pass. Of Arab architecture there are no monuments, and the five Moorish baths in Calle del Banys Frets have long disappeared. The Roman amphitheatre was close to Calle Fernando, of which the vomitoria looked on the present Calle Boqueria. In the Call (Latine callis, whence calle, Spanish for street, and also avenue and garden-walk), and thereabouts was the Ghetto, or quarter of the Jews, who had several synagogues, large dep6ts, and a great trade with the East. The Born, where tournaments took place, and the other markets, will interest the artist. The most important hospitals, etc. are La Caridad, a well -managed poor- house ; Misericordia, for poor girls, who are brought up to be servants or work- women ; Sta. Cruz, for convalescents, etc. Places of Public Resort. Pro- menades. The Rambla is much fre- quented in the evening. In the summer, the Paseo de Colon is a very cool walk ; the Paseo de Gracia is the Hyde Park and Rotten Row of Barcelona, hours from 2 to 5 P.M. The Park (de la ex- Ciudadela) really deserves the name of Botanical Gardens. See especially the exotic shrubs ; also the lake, Cascade, and Museo Martorell. The Paseo del Cementerio and the many Vauxhallian gardens are interesting for study of costume and character. Theatres. The Liceo, or Opera- house, has been rebuilt on the site, and we believe the same proportions as the former, which was burnt down. It is on the model of La Scala of Milan, but larger than either it or the San Carlo of Naples, and accommodates upwards of 4000 spectators at their ease ; the boxes are large, and well adapted to show off dresses : first-rate Italian opera in winter. Ladies gener- ally attend with bonnets on the lower tiers ; half-dress is usual. Gentlemen can dress ad libitum. The principal boxes, being private property, can sel- dom or never be obtained. Price of a box, 11 Or. ; a stall, 18r. Teatro Prin- cipal. A pretty theatre ; Spanish comedy, drama and dancing, opposite to Hotel de las Cuatro Naciones. Odeon, second-rate ; the performers are generally amateurs ; dramas, etc. Circo Barcelones, concerts and soirees de magie, etc. Bull-fights. These are very inferior here to those in Anda- lusia, Madrid, etc., and Catalans are no lovers of tauromachia. The Plaza was built in 1833, on the plan of that at Madrid ; it holds 10,000 spectators. The Carnival is very gay. The local great holidays are Feb. 12th, Sta. Eulalia, tutelar of the city (go to Sar- ria, etc.) ; Jan. 17, San Antonio, horse- races ; April 23, San Jorge (the fete take places in gardens, courts, chapel of the Audiencia) ; on Easter Monday, at Coll and Gracia, great merriment, fairs, booths, etc. Club. There is a very good Casino, comfortably fitted up, foreign papers and reviews taken in ; presentation by a member neces- sary; several public reading-rooms, but no English papers. Directory. Apothecaries. Borrell, Calle Conde del Asalto. Bankers. Girona hermanos, Clave and Co., cor- respondents of London and Westmin- ster ; Compte and Co. , agents of Messrs. BARCELONA. Hoare and Co. Baths. Pasaje de la Paz, 3 ; Rambla de Estudios, 3 ; from 8r. to 10r., linen included, both good. Booksellers. Verdaguer, Lopez, and Bonnebault, all on Rambla. Cafes. Coffee-houses at Barcelona are large establishments, fitted up with great luxury ; and ices, agraz, horchata, are very well prepared. The handsomest and most frequented are the Colon, Barcelona and Suizo, all on Rambla. Waiters are called by clapping one's hands, and not by striking the glass, as in Paris. There are some good restaurants, where one can dine a la carte and so much a head, French cooking ; the best are Martin, Rambla del Centre 5, and de Francia, Plaza Real 12. Grocer and Wine Mer- chant, Martignole, Calle Escudillers 10. Confectioner, Llibre, corner of Calle Fernando and Rambla. Blondes and Lace. Very good. Fiter, Plaza Real 1 ; Jaime Vives, Calle Fernando. Silks. Fine Spanish produce, manufactured in Catalonia and Valencia, etc., and foreign Escuder, Calle Fernando. Glovers. El Siglo, Rambla de Estudios. Consuls. H. B. M. 's Consulate, Calle Plata 7 (F. Wooldridge, Esq.) United States. Asalto 57 (F. H. Scheuck, Esq.) English Doctor. None. Several French and Spanish speak English. Church of England. Divine service every Sunday, at 11 and 5 o'clock, at No. 345 Calle Cortes. Money - changers. Several, equally good, on the Rambla. N.B. French gold and silver current. Giro Mutuo. A banking company ; money from the smallest possible sums remitted all over Spain for 2 per cent pre- mium, in the Plaza de Palacio ; open from 9 till 4. Perfumer. Roviralta, 5 Calle Fernando. Wines. The Cata- lonian wines are strong, not very delicate, but rich and juicy. Beni Carlo is sent to France, where it is mixed with very light Bordeaux. This red wine is susceptible of ameli- oration. Malvasia de Sitjes, Taya, Atella, Cullera, Priorato, ought to be tasted. Manila shawls and gene- ral china warehouse, fans, ivory, etc., Quer, Calle Boters, 6. Picture Galleries, Collections, Mu- seums. The Catalan is no connoisseur of painting, and the Museo is unim- portant. Of Viladomat there are some good specimens, especially Sta. Clara, La Stigmata, etc. There are many libraries, private and public, rich in MSS. and local history. Archive Genl. de la Corona de Aragon. It is one of the oldest, best-arranged, and most important archives in Europe. It was established by Pedro IV. del Pun- yalet. The admirable classification is due to the late keeper of the archives. The documents date from the 9th century. This establishment is pub- lishing a collection of political and ad- ministrative documents of value, espe- cially for the history of the kingdoms of Valencia, Cataluna, Aragon, Majorca, and their dependent portions in southern France, Italy, etc. Free admittance. Libraries, Picture Galleries, etc. Besides those already mentioned, the Episcopal Library, 15,000 vols., 2000 MSS. of Spanish romance, coins, speci- mens of minerals and natural history. The library of the Ateneo (the Casino) on the Rambla, Plaza del Teatro 7, 15,000 vols. ; fine rooms ; admission only by a member. The Biblioteca del Seminario Conciliar, in the Calle Di- putacion, 18,000 vols. Bibliotecas Populares (people's libraries), Calle Alta de San Pedro, and in the Casas Consis- toriales. Biblioteca de Jurisprudencia, de Medicina, etc. Museo Salvador, a good collection of the natural history of Cataluna, geology, minerals, antiquities. Museo del Sr. de Belloch, Paseo de 56 BARCELONA SUBURBS. Gracia. Escuela and Museo de Bellas Artes, Casa Lonja ; see especially paint- ings of Fortuny, Viladomat, and other representatives of the Catalan and Valencian schools. Museo of Sr. Bosch y Pazzi, Calle Ripoll, 22. Public Instruction. It is very well organised here, and education is very general and popular. There are 85 schools of primary instruction ; and several higher schools, mostly founded and supported by the town, Chamber of Commerce, etc. We shall mention the larger schools : Escolapios, Colegio Barcelones, Seminario Conciliar; be- sides Faculty of Medicine, College of Surgeons, etc. Cab Fares. Stands in all the prin- cipal plazas De la Constitucion, Santa Ana, de Palacio, del Teatro, de Cata- luna,etc. Comfortable caleches. Cabbies apt to be extortionate unless bargained with. Tariff. From 6 A.M. to 10 P.M. The Course i Horse. Do. 2 Horses. The Hour i Horse. Do. 2 Horses. From 10 P.M. to 6 A.M. The Course i Horse. Do. 2 Horses. The Hour i Horse. Do. 2 Horses. N 8 s o $ U. O fi o 2 ! "1 ^An Reals. Reals. Reals. 4 6 8 12 18 28 6 8 10 8 10 12 8 12 16 16 24 28 16 24 3 2 28 40 48 N. #. Omnibuses and trams run through the city in all directions. SUBURBS. Visit the barrio or quar- tier called Barceloneta, S.E. of city, and built in the beginning of this century. It is on a perfectly regular plan, the straight line being the rule, composed of houses of the same size and shape, containing a population of upwards of 15,000, mostly sailors and lower classes. Gfracia, N.W. of city, at the foot of the hill Tibidabo, close to the most fashionable promenade, a flourishing town of 35,000 inhabs., with restaur- ants, tea-gardens, etc. Sarrid is another favourite resort of the Bar- celonese on holidays and summer evenings. There are several pretty villas, called in Cataluna torres, scat- tered about the country with charming gardens and vistas. See especially El Laberinto and the Torre of Sr. An- glada, near Horta. Rail to Sarria, through Gracia, 17, 12, 8 cuartos, in a few minutes. Excursions. To baths of Montbuy, of La- puda, etc. To Monserrat. An excursion to this celebrated monastery, and picturesque hills around it, ought not to be omitted. Con- veyances : ist, by rail from Barcelona to Martorell, about i hr., 13 reals. At Mar- torell take a carriage to Collbato, 2 hrs. ; from Collbatd (an inn, Posada Nueva de las Cuevas) to Monserrat, riding (donkeys and horses). N.B. If carriages be preferred to riding, there are carriages to Monserrat, but this is the longest way. 2d mode, Barcelona to Monistrol by rail, 31^ m.; fares, ist cl., Pes. 5.90; 2d. cl., Pes. 4.40; time, 2 hrs.; from sta- tion of Monistrol to the village, hr. ; Moni- strol to Monserrat, riding, 2 hrs. Fares to ascend Monserrat : A guide and donkey, 8r. for a man, lor. if a lady riding ; a guide to show the grottoes i4r., a torch ion; for Ben- gal fire, used to illuminate the grottoes, etc., i6r. ; half an hour requisite to reach the grot- toes. A whole day is indispensable to see the principal sights, but two would fatigue less. The inn at Collbato is fair. At Monserrat visi- tors are assigned rooms in the Hospederia, but meals must be taken in the Fonda adjoining. A stay of three days may be made, or longer by special permission. Payment is made by a donation, 5 pesetas a day being usual. Description. Monserrat, Mons Serratus, or the Jagged Mountain, is so called from its form ; it is about 8 leagues in circum- ference, and the pinnacles range some 3500 BARCELONA EXCURSIONS. 57 ft. high. It is one of the most celebrated shrines in Spain, and the object of yearly pil- grimages, which once numbered upwards of 60,000 pilgrims, but are gradually thinning in proportion as true piety is becoming more enlightened. According to the legend, Bishop Gondemar, hearing a report spread by some shepherds that mysterious lights were seen, and music heard, both coming from the Jagged Mountain, visited it in 880 to find out the truth. A small statue of the Virgin was dis- covered in a grotto. This image (the one now here) is said to be the work of St. Luke, and to have been brought to Spain by St. Peter. It was concealed here by the Bishop of Barcelona when the Arabs invaded Cataluna. As it was being carried to Manresa by the bishop, he soon fancied he discovered strong and weighty proof that it was the statue's par- ticular wish not to travel farther. An altar was then raised, a chapel built, and an anchorite placed to watch over it. Now the devil came en personne to inhabit a grotto close by, with the determination to lead astray the pious man. Wilfred, then Count of Barcelona, had a beau- tiful daughter, Riquilda, who, having become possessed by the evil spirit, declared that the latter would not leave her until Juan Guarin, the godly anchorite, gave him leave to do so. The count then took her to the hermit, and left her to his care. Guarin was perversely inspired, and finally cut her head off, and buried the body. Guarin, all repentance, parted company with his wicked friend, and fled to Rome. The Pope gave him absolu- tion, but ordered him to return to Monserrat, never to look up to heaven, but that he should walk and feed like the beasts and never utter a word. Heaven seems to have confirmed the Pope's verdict, for shortly after he was turned into a wild beast. The huntsmen of Count Wilfred captured the strange animal, and took him to the palace, where he became a great lion. But not long after, at a banquet given by the count, the wild beast being introduced for the gaze of the guests, a child cried out to it, ' Arise, Juan Guarin ; thy sins are pardoned thee.' The beast then became once more the former Monserrat anchorite, was pardoned by the count, and a search being made by the father and Guarin, led to the discovery of fair Riquilda, who, notwithstanding having had her throat cut and being buried for eight years in a deep hole, reappeared alive, and with only i red rim on her throat, more like a silk thread than a wound, and more becoming than other- wise. Count Wilfred founded a nunnery, of which Riquilda became the lady abbess, and Guarin head butler or mayor domo. The miracles performed by the holy image at- tracted thousands of pilgrims, and the nuns were removed and monks placed in their stead. It has been ever since a favourite shrine with kings, popes, great captains, etc., and was especially patronised during the isth and i6th centuries. The Tesoro of the Virgin was truly magnificent, and amounted to upwards of 200,000 ducats. The ostensorium given by Philibert of Savoy contained upwards of 1000 diamonds, 100 pearls, 100 sapphires, opals, etc. One of her numberless crowns was en- riched with 2500 emeralds. Don Juan of Austria placed around it the flags and banners he had captured at Lepanto ; and when Philip V. visited the chapel there were no precious lamps of massive silver before the altar. Most of the riches were carried away when Suchet's troops kept garrison at the monastery for three months. Portions of the buildings were pulled down, the library burnt, and the monks hanged or hunted out of their cells. In 1827, Ferdi- nand_VI I. granted 5000 for the reconstruc- tion of the edifices ; and Queen Isabella, on her visit in 1857, made the Virgin several presents and left money. The former church and monastery no longer exist ; the only vestige is a Byzantine portal and a small por- tion of the Gothic cloisters of 1476. The present convent is well situated ; the cluster of buildings, some of them eight storeys high, is placed on a terrace overlooking a gorge, where rocks are jumbled together in Salvator Rosa style, with plains at the end coloured with a greyish yellow, and dark forests scattered in the dis- tance. At the back there are lofty and preci- pitous masses of conical rocks rising to a great height. The Llobregat winds through the plain below, and the background of this grand tableau is formed by the distant Pyrenees, blending with the clouds. There is little to see here save the scenery, which is wild and grand. The hermitages, once very numerous, and placed in almost inaccessible and retired, solitary, lofty spots, are no longer what they were : most have disappeared, and the rest are crumbling fast. Visit the rock-walled garden ; the church, where there is a good retablo, the work of Esteban Jordan, and a reja, a masterpiece of Cristobal de Salamanca, 1578. The celebrated image is of inferior execution, made of dark wood. The Cueva, or Gruta de la Esperanza, is a very large grotto, with a stalactite-roofed grotto adjoining called El Camarin. This latter leads to Tocador de las Silfides (Boudoir of the Sylphs). At the bottom of the larger grotto is the Pozo (well) del Diablo, 20 yards deep. Descend into it and cross several grottoes, all curious, and rendered effective by the stalactite roof and the calcareous incrustations on the walls The 58 BASQUE PROVINCES. largest is called Galeria de San Bartoleme". To the right of it is another, Claustro de los Monjes, where the stalactites with the stalag- mites have, by blending, formed slender pillars. From it proceed to the Gmta de las Estalac- titas. The spectacle presented here by the thousand different fantastical forms assumed by the crystallisation and incrustations is greatly enhanced by the light of the torches and Bengal fire generally lighted up for the greater effect. Hence to Gruta del Elefante, so called from the seeming form of that animal placed in the centre, and formed by an im- posing mass. Observe in it besides a strikingly regular ogival arch, naturally formed. Here ladies may limit their excursion to this curious underground palace. Those whom nothing daunts that is, neither mud nor dampness we advise to proceed to Boca del Jnfierno, 56 metres deep ; to Gruta de la Dama Blanca, where the lady in 'white is a large white rock, mysteriously wrought by nature. Thence, after crossing several other curious halls full of stalactites, the Salon del Absido Gotico is attained, which is the last. The temperature varies a good deal, and we advise tourists setting out on the complete grand tour (which takes 6 hrs. ) of this subterraneous coun- try to provide themselves with wrappers, as, whilst it is 20 degrees centigrade in the last- named grotto, it is 15 in that of Las Estalacti- tas, and only 9 in the Vestibule. The church is mostly modernised. Visit the Camarin, or wardrobe, of the Virgin, where her costly and beautifully embroidered mantos are carefully kept ; and the devotees (devotos de la Virgen) may kiss her statue's hand. The mountain is jagged, or separated into two portions or hills, forming thus the small valley, where the winter torrents have formed a ravine, which serves as a line of demarcation between the j bishoprics of Vich and Barcelona. This violent rent or separation was produced, say religious legends, at the moment of the crucifixion. Geology explains it by the eruption of a vol- cano, and the waters which filled the summits forming an immense basin or lake. The 13 hermitages formed what is called a via crucis and scala cceli> which began at the hermitage of Santiago and ended at that of St. Teronimo. The views from the former are extensive. The mountain itself, which is after all the lion here, is formed by several huge clustering conical hills, through which all access is difficult. These ' aiguilles' consist of round calcareous stones, of various colours, and hewn, so to speak, by a sort of natural bitumen mixed with sand. Continued rains gradually destroy by decomposition this glutinous fossil pitch ; they thus render these peaks more pointed, carry away the soil and sand, and plough the slopes of the mountain in all direc- tions, filtering through the mass and producing these stalactites which we see in the grottoes of Collbatd. The detritus accumulated at the base of the mountain has at last become an excellent vegetable soil, which produces fine wheat and vines ; and though the summits are rugged, denuded, and sterile, the slopes, within an extent of 25 kil. circumference, are clothed with vegetation, and present a series of 200 varieties of plants. The mountain stands isolated. Its spurs extend N.W., and are of great height also, and the whole mass forms part of the Pyrenean range. The greatest height is about 3390 ft. above the sea, and 8 leagues in circumference. The mountain is rent the third part of its whole height, forming thus two hills or summits separated by a nar- row valley, where the rains have dug a small ravine W. to E. THE BASQUE PROVINCES. GEOGRAPHICAL ADMINISTRATIVE DI- VISIONS . These three provinces, Alava, Vizcaya, Guipuzcoa (capitals, Vitoria, Bilbao, San Sebastian) are commonly called ' Las Provincias, ' to which Vas- congadas is often added ; they consti- tuted the ancient Cantabria (from Kent- Aber, corner of the water), the inhabit- ants of which were never expelled from their native soil, and proved as indomitable as the Asturii and all mountaineers generally are. The largest of the three is Biscay, which measures some 314 m. from ET. to S., and 39 m. E. to W., with a seaboard of 52| m. in extent. The smallest, that of Guipuz- coa, contains only 52 square leagues, and Alava 116 square leagues. The population is: Vizcaya, 190,000 j Alava, 104,000; Guipuzcoa, 185,000; total 479,000. The principal rivers are: the Bidassoa, which rises on the S.W. slopes of the Pico de Les- sete, in the range of the Alduides, some BASQUE PROVINCES. 59 3336 ft. above the level of the sea ; the Ibaizabal, Arratia, Orduna, and Cadag- n a, in Biscay, which uniting their waters form the Nervion that crosses Bilbao and empties itself into the Atlantic. The principal towns, besides the capitals already mentioned, are : Tolosa, Irun, and Vergara. The principal ports those of Lequeitio, Portugalete, and Laredo. The three provinces are placed under the military jurisdicton of a Capitania- General de las Provincias Yascongadas and Navarre, whose residence is at Pamplona. There is a gobernador for each, and judicially and ecclesiastically they depend on the audiencia of Burgos and the dioceses of Santander and Cala- horra. HISTORY. The Basques are said to be the descendants of the earliest in- habitants of the Peninsula, and to this day they have preserved intact the character, customs, and language, of their forefathers. With all justice they can lay claim to the title of the oldest race in Spain. They call their language Eskara or Euskara, and themselves Escualdunac, meaning, perhaps, strong hand. From the first they constituted small republics, ruled by chiefs elected among themselves, and according to especial codes or fueros, which breathed fierce independence, parochial exclusive- ness, and stern but patriarchal regula- tions. This national code has been respected at all times, and by every ruler, forming an imperium in imperio, with its especial House of Commons, Diputacion Provincial, tariffs, tolls, police, and army. There is now some talk of abolishing these fueros, and the moment seems to have come when they may be suppressed without causing any real and lasting disturbance. Tne Basques have played no important part in the annals of Spain. In 1106 those on the French side purchased the La- board for 3306 gold florins, and were incorporated with France in 1451, under Charles VII., but continued to enjoy certain exemptions from taxes, enlist- ment in the army, etc. In 1330 and 1333, the Spanish Basque Provinces submitted to the authority of Alfonso XI. of Castile, and were annexed to Castile by Pedro the Cruel, who put to death Juan of Aragon, husband of the heiress to the lordship (senorio) which these provinces constituted. CHARACTER, LANGUAGE, AND DRESS. The Vascuenses are a most noble, high-minded, and interesting race ; a haughty, stern, independent people, noted for truthfulness and honesty, and unbounded hospitality. They are ad- dicted to agriculture and smith-work, make excellent sailors, and have be- come most remarkable discoverers. El- cano, who commanded one of Magel- lan's ships ; Legazpia, who made the conquest of the Philippine Islands, and founded the first Spanish town at Zebu, Loaira, etc. ; and the discovery of Greenland, Canada, Newfoundland, etc., have been ascribed to Basques. They were certainly the earliest whale-fisher- men on record, and to this day man the French and Spanish whalers that leave Bayonne, Bordeaux, and the Spanish northern ports. They are good soldiers, especially when under the immediate and exclusive orders of a countryman (paisano\ and the tercios Vascongados were always held in great repute. Though deficient in works of imagina- tion, taste, and art, they are excellent mathematicians, learned scholars, and stout reasoners. Physically, they are a very superior race, tall, muscular, well-proportioned, wiry, and swift- footed. Fair hair and blue eyes are frequent a fact explained by the long and constant intercourse and partial amalgamation with the Northmen dur- ing the 9th century, and their Celtic origin. The women are very handsome, 60 BASQUE PROVINCES. fair-complexioned, and with magnificent long hair, worn in trenzas hanging over the back. They are reserved and haughty before strangers. Their claims to be the descendants of Noah and Tubal, the most noble race in the world, and of pure and earliest nobility, are prominent features in their character. Every Yascongado is born a caballero a goicoa, and proud armorials are very frequently seen sculptured in stone over a humble cottage or a dilapidated hovel. Their customs, games, etc., are all in- teresting and evince antiquity. For instance, corn and bread are offered to the dead on the anniversary day of their death. At Elizondo, San Sebastian, etc. , we have often seen some poor fisher- man's daughter, in a church, praying for a dead relative, amid baskets full of fruit, loaves of bread, and corn, and kneeling upon the tomb of her ancestors, bearing an escutcheon with canting arms. The dances on holidays must also be noticed for their originality and antique character, the zorcico, the carried, the espata, and others, are all interest- ing to witness. The bagpipe, tam- bourine, fife, and the silbato are the usual rude Berber-like instruments that accompany them. The wild cries of outbursting joy, the clashing of the chestnut iron-ended makilia,t'hQ delight of the dancers, bring back to our recol- lection their definition by Voltaire : ' Les Basques sont un petit peuple qui saute et danse au sommet des Pyrenees. ' The great national amusement is the juego de pelota, fives-court, which is met with in the most insignificant hamlet. They are the best players in Europe, and have frequently beaten the French Basques, renowned alike in this game. The dress is picturesque but plain. The men wear short velvet jackets, mostly dark green or brown, long loose trowsers of the same material, alpargatas (sandals) or wooden shoes, in winter, called madrenas. A blue or vivid red sash girds the loins, and the head-gear consists of the picturesque boina, generally blue. The women cover their heads in the cold and rainy months, or when they go to church, with the cloth hood, black or brown, worn in Navarre, the Pyre- nees French and Spanish, the south of France, and Bruges in Belgium. THE LANGUAGE is said by some philo- logists to be akin to Mandchu and Mon- golian, and, according to Humboldt, was formerly spoken throughout all Spain. It certainly is a primitive tongue, without the least analogy with any of Latin or Teutonic origin. Its vigour, word-painting, and locutions are most remarkable, and it is consi- dered the richest of all. There are some 4000 w r ords of one, two, and three syllables, and some of them contain as many as sixteen ! The pronunciation is harsh, unharmonious, and most diffi- cult to learn. The devil is said to have studied it, and could not learn above three words after several years' labour ; while one of the best authorities on it is a prince of the Bonaparte family, who succeeded in speaking it after a short residence in the country. The nouns, pronouns, and adjectives change into verbs at will, and likewise verbs may be transformed into nouns and adjectives. All prepositions, adverbs, conjunctions, interjections, the very letters of the al- phabet, are declined like nouns or adjec- tives and conjugated like verbs. The substantive changes according to the condition of the being or thing to de- signate, expressing graphically the sense of objects to which they are ap- plied, thus : God is called Jain Goicoa, that is, the good Master who dwells on high. Moon Harghi, light of the dead. Cemetery Herria, the land of the dead. Science Icasbide, road to learning. BASQUE PROVINCES. 61 A new house is called Etcheverry, and any- body's house say Raymond's house Erremunteghia. Lope de Yega, who traced his origin to one of these provinces, says : Para noble nacimiento Hay en Espana tres partes, Galicia, Vizcaya^ Asturias, O ya moutaflas las Hainan. Indeed, every Basque claims a descent at least from Noah, and maintains it as seriously as any Scotchman : As is told of one who, on being informed that we all descended from "oah, asserted that his family ' didna do so,' for they had at the time of the deluge ' a little ark of their own/ a story similar to one told of some of the members of the Due de Levi's family, who seriously pretend to be nearly related to the Yirgin Mary, who was one of the tribe of Levi. But the sensible Spaniard remarks, 'hay parentescos que no les alcanza un galgo. ' AGRICULTURAL PRODUCE, MINES, etc. The country is very hilly, containing, but as exceptions to the rule, some charming green valleys embosomed amid chestnut-clad slopes, oaks, and the blue arrowy pine. The scenery, cottages, villages, and houses, are most Swiss- like. The tinkling of bells hung around the velvet-coated black and white cows, mostly imported from Brittany or Navarre ; the wild, shrill, joyful cries of the cowherds calling to each other across the valleys ; the blue- green meadows watered by sparkling rills, fringed by English-looking hedges; the slopes of clustered hills gilt by the waving maize ; whitewashed cottages studded about : how different all from the dusty, dreary, deserted, savage Castile which we have crossed or are about to enter ! the well-kept roads, secure bridges, regular pretty villages, with a tidy plaza, a shady alameda, and the school-house and church, full of sunshine ; all bespeak good self-govern- ment, habits of order, and honest toil. There are several manufactories of paper, soap, matches, cotton and linen, woollen stuffs, etc., at Iran, Renteria, Tolosa, Lasarte, and Vergara. Iron-foundries at Irura and Tolosa. Mines are not very abundant. Iron is found at Ciz- urquil and Alzo, and especially at So- morrostro, mentioned by Pliny, where it is most abundant, producing upwards of 2,000,000 tons of ore annually. That of Balmaseda is also considerably worked and abundant. Pyrites of cop- per are found close to Bilbao, lead at Monte Haya, etc. Chalk, alabaster, baryta, and calcareous spar are very common, and galine is extracted from the rich mines of Elarrio, Manaria, Guadalcano, etc. (N. of Bilbao) ; coals have not been found, and are brought from Asturias. Some of the best mineral springs are to be met with in these provinces, such as Santa Agueda, near Mondragon (sul- phate of calcium and chlorure of so- dium), Alzola ; Arechavaleta (sulphu- ric acid gas and sulphate of calcium), near Vergara ; Cestona (chlor. sod. ), not far from Azpeitia ; Molinar de Carranza (ac. carb.) ; Cortezubi, near Murquina (sulph. hydrog.), Zaldivar, etc. The principal products of the province are maize, red and white ; ex- c ellent fruit, such as the pavia peaches of the valley of Gordeguela, near Bilbao; the delicious Busturia cherries; juicy apples from Durango, and chestnuts. Corn is not much grown, as the climate does not allow it to ripen sufficiently. The exports are null ; the imports con- sist chiefly of corn, cheap French wines, etc. The Chacoli wine produced here is sour, and strangers cannot drink it without water. Some crystal is manu- factured at La Piedad de Ibaizabal ; linen at Begona ; porcelain, ropes, pa- per, etc., at Buisturia. The villages 62 BASQUE PROVINCES. are comprised in ante-iglesias or dis- tricts, so called from being generally grouped 'before,' or rather around the parish church, which is the citadel, the palace, the hospital, the seat of govern- ment and wisdom in the eyes of the religious, simple-minded, patriarchal Vascuenses, who readily believe with Napoleon ' tout ce que croit mon cure". ' The municipalities, parientes mayores or infanzones (not the lords, but, accord- ing to the Basque etymology, the first occupants of the land, the elders), meet under the porch of the church to de- liberate on parish matters ; the merin- dades, or larger political districts, com- prising each several ante-iglesias, meet at different large cities of the provinces to treat on general matters important to the interest of the commonwealth. But however republican and democratic the Basques pretend to be, they retain certain aristocratic privileges and prin- ciples ; thus, though all born gentle- men, the master of a house is alone etcheco-yauna, the equivalent for hi- dalgo. Right of primogeniture also exists, which is applied to the first-born, whether a male (etcheco-premua), or a female (etcheco-prima). A time-ho- noured oak, el arbol de Guernica, is from time immemorial the rendezvous of the political assemblies of the pro- vinces which meet under its shady branches (Guernica is near Bilbao), and alternately also at Irun, Vittoria, etc. Routes, etc. The cities are not very interesting, save to military tourists who may wish to visit the celebrated fields of Yittoria, Ernani, Irun, San Sebas- tian, etc. ; the most picturesque portions lie about Yergara, Zarauz, Salinas, Mondragon, and may be visited, follow- ing the old coach-road. There is some good trout-fishing and caza menor ; the country is free from robbers, and the local rural police, los miqueletes, are a trustworthy, good-natured tribe, always ready to aid the traveller, as we have personally experienced more than once. For a tour in the provinces we should suggest the following routes : Irun to Sebastian, c. or. rl. * Zarauz, c. Bilbao, c. Orduna, rl. Vittoria, c. or rl. Salmas, c. Mondragon, c. Tolosa, c. Irun, c. or rl. * C. carriage or dil. ; rl. railway. There are small caleches to be found in every large village, and the wiry, sure- footed hack of the countiy will be often preferred to the close stuffy diligence and too rapid railway ; the inns are everywhere tidy, clean, and the charges most reasonable ; the climate is rainy and damp summer and autumn are the best seasons for travelling. BOOKS OF REFERENCE. The Basque literature is of little importance, and none is earlier than the 16th century. The Souletine Pastorals partake of the character of the mediaeval Mysteries, and are still performed. Here again, however, there is nothing older than the middle of the last century. The subjects are generally historical and legendary, and satire is often happily introduced. The Basques, like most mountaineers, are proficient in the com- position of songs, both historical and religious, but more especially satirical and light. Their proverbs are very racy, and have been collected by the Souletine Basque, Oihenart, in the 17th century ; they are contained in the MS. copy at the Paris Biblio- theque Imperiale, but have been printed, Bordeaux in 1847, and at Bayonne in 1872. The poetical works of Goyhetche, Heribarren, and Istueta, also exist. Several proverbs, and information respecting Basque BILBAO. 63 literature, etc., are found in Chaho's ' Biarritz, entre les Pyrenees et I'Ocean,' 2 vols. ; Bayonne. And- reossy. 1. 'Voyage Archeologique et Histo- rique dans le Pays Basque, le Labourd, et le Guipuzcoa, par M. Cenac Mon- caut;' Paris, Didron, 1857. 2. Good and authentic information may be derived from 'Diccionario geog.- historico de Espaiia, ' published by the Acad. of Hist, in 1802 ; Madrid Ibarra. The seccion l a comprises these pro- vinces and Navarre, 2 vols. 4to. 3. ' Historia de la Provincia de Gui- puzcoa,' by Baroja ; San Sebastian, 1847 (written in Basque). The author wrote in 1824 and 1826 (published at San Sebastian) two interesting papers on the music and dances of this province. 4. The history of Guipuzcoa has been written by Isasti (1625), Velazquez, Eccheverri, etc. They are of little importance, being founded on fables, and many facts distorted by local par- tiality. An exception to this is t"he 32d vol. of Risco's and Iturriaza y Zabala's ' Historic Gen. deVizcaya,' 1785, fol. MS. Acad. Hist., Madrid (C. 150), and 'Compendios historicos de la Ciudad y Villas de Alava,' by Landazuri ; Pamplona, Cos- culluela, 1798, 4to. The Basque language has been the object of very learned investigations by Bar. Humboldt. Chaho's ' Dictionnaire Basque, Frai^ais, Espagnol, et Latin,' may be recommended. The best gram- matical treatise is ' Le Verbe Basque en Tableaux,' by Prince Bonaparte, Lon- don, 1869. Of. also a linguistic map of the country by the same author. Other grammars are 'Essai sur laLangue Basque,' by J. Ribary, translated by Vinson, Paris, 1877 ; ' Grammaire Com- paree des Dialectes Basques,' by Van Eys, Paris, 1879 ; and his simplified Basque Grammar in Triibner's series. The most complete work is D. Arturo Campion's ' Gramatica de los cuatro Dialectos literarios de la Lengua Eus- kara,' Tolosa, 1884. BILBAO. Capital of province of Vizcaya (Biscay), a seaport. Pop. 37,000. Routes and Conveyances. 1st, from Madrid, by rail throughout, thus : Kil. Time (express.) Fares, ist and 2d cl. Madrid to Miranda (branch buffet, carriages changed) by rail . Miranda to Bilbao .. Time (express.) h. m. 453 104 557 The route is uninteresting, though the scenery is wild, and the engineering ranks among the finest in Europe for daring and boldness. 2d, From Barcelona and Zaragoza by Tudela, by rail throughout. Bar- celona to Zaragoza, by rail ; Zaragoza to Castejon (rail line of Zaragoza to Alsasua), distance, 94 kil. Time, about 3 hours 20 min. Fares, Pes. 10.85 ; Pes. 8.15. Stops at Castejon, a good buffet. Change carriages for Miranda, 208 40 48 o 156 40 36 o 16 256 40 192 40 by Logrono. Castejon to Miranda and Bilbao, distance 249 kil. Time, 9 hours 55 min. Fares, Pes. 28.75; 21.60. Junction -station, Miranda. Buffet, about 30 min. stops. This journey is not interesting. We shall describe it very briefly. Description of Houte. Calahorra (Posada de Espinosa), on the river Cidacos, was the birthplace of Quin- tilian, the rival of Nuinantia and of Zaragoza for dogged resistance against 64 BILBAO ROUTES. the enemy. Here Sertorius sustained a long siege against Pompey (B. c. 678), when the latter, after a loss of 3000 men, was compelled to retire. Four years after, it was besieged by Apranius, and finally taken and destroyed after a most desperate resistance. Provisions being at an end, human flesh was resorted to rather than surrender, and at Rome ' Fames Calagurritana' became a proverb. Indeed, Alfonso el Sabio, in his ' Partidas, ' iv. 17, 8, sets down as a law that a father, whilst defending a castle, may eat his own son rather than surrender: ' Seyendo el padre cercado en algun Castillo que toviesse de senor, si fuesse tan cuytado de fambre que non oviesse al que comer, puede comer al fijo, sin mal estra^a, ante que diesse el Castillo sin mandado de su senor.' The town is a thing of the past, and perierent ruince. At Castejon vehicles may be obtained to baths of Fitero, and at Calahorra for those of Almedillo. On the Lera, two leagues from Logrono, took place the battle of Clavijo, at which Santiago, notwith- standing having been stoned to death some 800 years before, managed to kill 60,000 Moors. Logrono. Inn : Fonda del Universe, Pop. 14,000. Capital of province of same name. On the right bank of the Ebro, on a very fertile plain, well cul- tivated and planted, producing the good but heady vino de la Rioja. The church of Santa Maria la Redonda(!) is said to have been erected by order of Constantino (?), and is therefore styled imperial ; it is Gothic and indifferent, the stalls finely carved. The cloisters are very early. In the church of San- tiago is said to have been established the order of Santiago. Engineers as well as antiquaries and artists should examine attentively the bridge over the Ebro, built by a Dominican friar called San Juan de Ortega, in 1138. Logrono was the residence chosen by General Espartero, K.C.B., Duke of Morella, etc. etc., and the hero of the Vergara Convention. This true patriot, a model of honesty and disinterestedness, re- tired, Garibaldi-like, to this other Cap- rera, where his greatest ambition was to rear the largest cherries and cauli- flowers in Spain, and to make the best wine. Shortly after leaving Logrono Fuenmayor is reached. Close to it is the small town of Navarrete, whose name is familiar to readers of Spanish history, on account of the celebrated battle which was fought not far from its walls, at Nagera, between Enrique de Trastamara, aided by the French, Duguesclin, and Don Pedro el Cruel, who won the day, thanks to his Eng- lish allies, headed by the gallant Black Prince, April 3, 1367. Some excellent silk is produced at Laguardia, near Station of Cenicero. The fertile 'Campos de la Rioja/ watered by the Ebro, are crossed, as well as this river, on nearing Miranda. 3d, From Bayonne. A. By land, by rail to Miranda, 8 hours, and then to Bilboa, 4 hours 12^ hours. B. By land, by'dil. del Norte y Mediodia in 16 hrs., by Vergara one day, and the other by Zarauz and Azcoitia. (Railroad in progress). First Itinerary. By Ver&ara. Leagues. San Sebastian to Andoai . . 2 Tolosa 24 3 3 Villareal Vergara Elgueta Elorrio Durango Zornoza Bilbao Fares : berlina, i2or. ; interior, loor. ; im- periale, gor. ; no rotunda ; good carriages, generally leave at 6 P.M. every other day; offices at Hotel de la Posta. Same for either route. Villareal. Vehicles for baths of Cestona, BILBAO ROUTES. 65 V'ergara. Good inn, de la Posta. A Swiss- like town ; manufactories, an excellent colegio, situated on the Deva (a good trout stream). Pop. 5726. Sculpture-amateurs may examine a fine Dying Christ by Juan Martz Montanes in church of San Pedro ; and an excellent statue of St. Ignatius in the colegio. In church of Sta. Marina, a much-thought-of painting by Mateo Cerezo subject, the Cristo de Burgos. Daily dil. service to Deva, a fashionable sea- side and bathing-place on the river of same name ; good accommodation, excellent beach for bathing, 3500 souls, 8 leagues, 6 hrs. by either Placencia (Government gun manufactory) or by Elzoybar and Alzola (mineral waters). Tolosa. Province of Guipuzcoa, 9000 inhab., situated in a narrow vale between the Monies Ernio and Loazu, on the rivers Orio and Arages. An improving, tidy, clean, and busy town, as most of these provinces are. A good Parador de las Diligencias. The old, once Gothic church of Sta. Maria was modernised in 1814. The magnificent retablo once here, and 90 ft. high, disappeared, together with the archives of the town, etc., during a fire in 1781. Durango. An important military position, with 6190 inhab., charmingly situated on a plain watered by the Durango. Its church of San Pedro de Tavira is one of the earliest in Biscay. Zornoza. Close to it, on March 21, 1837, an action took place between Espartero, with the legion under Sir de Lacy Evans and the Car- lists, which lasted n hrs., and ended in the victory of the former. C. The second route runs thus : Second Itinerary. By Zarauz and A zcoitia. Leagues. San Sebastian to Orio . . 3 Zarauz x Cestona 4 Azpeitia i Azcoitia ! Elgoybar 2 Durango Zornoza Bilbao In 16 hrs. 21 The scenery is very picturesque, and the roads good, though hilly and often narrow. Zarauz, 2300 inhab. A new fonda; good lodging-houses. A sea-side place, becoming every day more and more fashionable, situated near some very picturesque hills, dotted with chestnut and other trees; there are several marine villas, built by some Madrid noblemen and gentlemen of wealth. The castle-like Casa of Condes de Narros is the most fre- quented evening tertulia, besides those of the Duke of Villahermosa, Granada, Count Solina, Sr. D. Pascual Madoz, etc. The playa is good and secure, and several pretty excursions can be made in the environs. Cestona. Mineral spring, very much resorted to. The establecimiento can hold 210 persons ; charges moderate, 2or. a-day all included. Fre- quented by 800 to 1000 bathers a-year. Azpeitia. On the Urriola, 7000 inhab. A mile farther is the convent and santa casa, where Ignatius de Loyola, the founder of the Jesuits, was born in 1491. The former is a handsome building, raised in 1683 by Maria Ana of Austria, Philip IV.'s wife, on the fine old domain of Ignatius. It was built by the Roman architect Fontana. There is a grand public festival and romeria in honour of the saint, towards the end of July, with a great con- course of pilgrims. (Fonda de Arteche, Azpeitia, poor ; Fonda de Miguel Aracena, close to the Santa Casa, good. Travellers should stay at the latter.) Azcoitia (5000 inhab.) is charmingly situated amid woodland, and on the banks of the Urola. The stalls of its church of Sta. Maria la Real. are elaborately carved, but the chapels tawdry and in vile taste. Close to Elzoybar is the mineral spring of Alzola, which has good accom- modation, and is much frequented by invalids suffering from the stone, etc. Eybar. 4000 inhab. Important Government manufactory of firearms, swords, etc. ; the machinery is all English, the produce good enough, the activity in the works and prosperity improving. 4th. By steam from the principal English ports, Bordeaux, Bayonne, San Sebastian, Nantes, Santander, Coruiia, Vigo and Lisbon, at frequent but ir- regular times. These sea-routes are often very delusive, and are only to be at all relied upon after actual inquiries at the agents' offices. See also adver- tisements in local papers, etc., and wall placards. Hotels.' Fonda de Inglaterra ; Fonda de Antonia ; both very good : charges from 30 reals per day. Hotel Americano ; Fonda de las Navarras ; fair, but not nearly so comfortable. Charges from 26 reals. Cafe. El Suizo, on the Arena!, BILBAO. Casino. Very good ; in the Plaza JSTueva. English newspapers. Stran- gers readily admitted upon intro- duction. Post Office, in the Plaza Nueva. Telegraph Office. Close by the Post Office. 1 Bankers. Espalza and Son, Estufa 9 ; Arellano, Arenal 18 ; Succursale of the Bank of Spain. Baths, Calle Ascao. British Consulate. Opposite the railway station. H.B.M. Consul, Hor- ace Young, Esq. U.S.A. Consular Agent, Edward Asnar, Esq. English Church, Portugalete. Climate. The city is sheltered from the N. winds by the hills of Archanda, from the E. by the Morro, from the S. by those of Maravilla, but is exposed to the icy north-western winds which sweep across the ocean. Owing to its low situation in a gorge of hills, Bilbao is very damp, and from its exposure to N. W., S.E., and KE., the climate pro- duces disorders in the respiratory or- gans. The air is nevertheless bracing, moist, invigorating, and suited to weakened constitutions, not predis- posed tp_ phthisis. The mortality is 1.30. General Description. This thriv- ing and improving mercantile city is situated on the right bank of the Ner- vion, in a gorge formed by the hills of Archanda on the K, the Morro on the E. ; Moravilla to W., and exposed only to the K W. The streets are remarkably clean, the houses with projecting gables, the Plasa Nueva is large, and formec by rows of fine houses, among which is the Palace de la Diputacion Provincial. It is a purely trading town, with littli or no society, with no edifices to inter- est the traveller, and few historical associations of importance. Formerly. under the name of Bello Vas, 01 beautiful bay ;' it was founded in 1308 by Diego Lopez de Haro. It played no part in the annals of the middle ages, showed towards the Eng- lish the same hostile spirit as Santander during the beginning of this century, and sustained two destructive sieges against the Carlists, at one of which, in June 1835, Zumalacarregui the only hero that civil war ever produced received a mortal wound. Espartero, in 1836, coming to the rescue of the city, fought and won (close to the Luchana bridge) the action, which was raised to a battle, as he was in turn raised to a grandeza and earldom of that name. The most frequented promenade is the Arenal close to the port, and near the small and wretched theatre. The Campo Volantin and the Monton are equally charming paseos. The river joins the sea at Portugalete, distant about 6 m., and which is in reality the Port of Bilbao, and a fashionable sea-bathing place, * but de promenade. ' The bull-fights are much frequented in summer by Bordeaux and Bayonne amateurs, but the bulls are seldom anything but toritos navarros, saltarines, and a small feeble ganado. The Bilba- inas, excepting the female carriers (Cargueras), who here do all the porters' work, are handsome, statuesque in their attitudes, and amiable in their temper. The living is very cheap ; and fish, fruit, and meat all excellent. The Chacoli wine is reckoned among the best in the world, more especially by those who sell it. The chestnut's fame does not 'pasar de castano oscuro,' and as for the nuts, we may say, 'mucho ruido y pocas nueces. ' Neither carts nor carriages are al- lowed about the streets, with a view to cleanliness more than comfort or trade, and the object is attained * en honor de laverdad' with Dutch-like scrupulosity. BILBAO. 67 for we have never seen at Amsterdam or the Hague anything to compare to it. There are carrozas, or passage-boats, plying constantly between Bilbao and Portugalete. Passengers by sea land at Olaviaga, where conveyances are easily procured to the town. Olaviaga is 4 m. distant. The Port. The bay stretches be- tween Punta Galea and Punta de Luz- nero, on its W. side, distant about 3 m. The awkward shifting bar at Portu- galete has been greatly dredged away, so that now ships of 14 feet draught can come up and discharge at Olaviaga. The trade has rapidly 'increased during the last 10 years, the port being visited now by some 3000 vessels, of a total tonnage of 2, 600, 000 tons. The amount of exports is 3,250,000, and of imports 2,586,000. Since the discovery of the immense iron deposits (chiefly red hematite) of the Soinorrostro, etc., dis- tricts, this has become the chief trade of the place, and has completely trans- iormed the face of a large portion of what was formerly purely an agricul- tural country. The mines at Somor- rostro, situated about 12 kil. from Bilbao on the Santander road, are especially deserving of a visit, on account of their picturesque surround- ings, and the perfection of their me- chanical arrangements. The ingenious aerial wire tramway, for transporting the ore over the hills to its shipping destination, may here be seen in active operation. The amount of iron ore exported annually two-thirds to Eng- land amounts to upwards of 3,500,000 tons. There are also several large iron- works on the river, the principal being those of Ybarra and Co. , who have six blast furnaces. The output of pig- iron and castings amounts to about 100,000 tons per annum. Shipbuilding and repairing also employ a large amount of capital. Bilbao, being a purely commercial place, possesses, apart from its pretty clean self, and fine surrounding country, few objects of interest. It may, how- ever, be very well made a pleasant resting-place for a few days en route for less civilised regions. Visit the fine 12th century bridge of San Antonio, the church of Arrichinaga, the prettily restored church of Santiago, the mar- kets upon the Plaza Vieja, the lovely little cemetery which overhangs the town, and the (rather weak) Gothic church of Santa Maria de Borgona which stands a quarter of a mile further along the hill side. The prosperous suburban town of Portugalete should also be visited (trams run every few minutes down both sides of the river) for the sake of its fine sea-views and good late Gothic parroquia of Santa Maria. Note in the latter the cleverly carved oak retablo of the Capilla Mayor, and, coming out, the glorious vista of sea and country obtainable from the N. doorway. Portugalete was very roughly treated during the Carlist War of 1873-75, but has long since put away all trace of the mischief then wrought. It is now a bright and busy town, both the resort and the home of a great number of Bilbao folk. There are two coaches per day to Santander vid' Castro, Laredo and Solares. These start on alternate days from opposite the Fonda Antonia, and the church of San Nicolas upon the Arenal. For description of route see Santander. It is a journey that is worth taking for its own sake, through a country where coast and inland scenery are combined in the rarest perfection. The day coach should be chosen, start- ing at about 6.30 A.M. 68 BURGOS. Capital of the province of the same name, and of the former of Old Oastile an archbishop's see. Pop. about 32,000. N. lat. 42 21', W. long. 3 38' Greenwich. 2867 ft. above the sea, according to Humboldt, and 3075 ft., Verneuil. Routes and Conv. 1st, from Bay- onnc. For details of route, see Madrid. By rail in 10 hrs. (exp.) ; distance, 190 in., fares, 1st cl., 35fr. 30c. ; 2d cl., 26fr. OOc. ; 3d cl. 15fr. 35c. Three trains a day. By leaving Bayonne at 11.21 A.M. arrive at Burgos at 9.10 that same evening. Tickets at railway station ; buffets at Irun, Alsasua, and Miranda. 2d. From Madrid. By rail (for de- tails of route see Madrid] ; time, 10 hrs. exp. ; distance, 226 m. ; fares, 1st cl., Pes. 41.75 ; 2d cl., Pes. 31.35. There are five trains a day ; buffets at Avila, Medina, Valladolid, V. de Bafios. 3d. From Valladolid. Distance, 76m. ; time, 3 hrs. ; fares, 1st cl., 55r. 60c. ; 2d cl., 42r., etc. For details, see Madrid. 4th. From Logrono. To Miranda, whence by rail in 3 hrs. See Bilbao. 5th. From Bilbao. 7J hrs. by rail, vid Miranda. See Bilbao. 6th. From Santander. 9| hrs. by rail, via Alar and Venta de Banos. See Santander. 7th. From Leon. By rail, vid Pa- lencia. Leon to Palencia, 4 hrs. Pa- lencia to Banos, 16m. (by mail) ; Banos to Burgos, 2| hrs. ; total 7 hrs. Hotels. De Paris, opposite to cavalry barracks. A furbished -up diligence parador, decent but extor- tionate ; make your prices beforehand ; table d'h6te, 14r., good ; carriages to hire. Fonda del Norte, indifferent but clean ; an obliging landlord ; bedroom and sitting-room 12r., breakfast 10r., dinner 14r. ; in all, pay from 3 Or. to 40r. a day ; good sherry for 20r. a bottle. Post Office. Close to the Hotel de Paris; open from 9 A.M. to 12 P.M., and from 4 A.M. to 6 A.M. Hours of delivery vary according to those of trains. The train from Madrid comes in at 12 and leaves at 2.20 P.M. ; that from France comes in at 3 P.M. and leaves at 11.30 A.M. Telegraph. Office. Calle San Juan 44, near the Plaza de la Audencia ; open day and night. Promenades, Theatres. There are some pretty promenades by the river- side, especially the shady EspolonNuevo and La Isla and its salon. The prin- cipal Cafes are El Suizo and El Iris, both on the Espolon. The Casino, first floor above the Cafe Suizo, is a poor concern; French papers taken in. The theatre, built in 1858, is spacious and elegantly fitted up, and can contain about 1200 spectators. Climate. Dull, damp, cold, and windblown ; from its elevation and scarcity of trees it is very much ex- posed to the N.KW. and N.E. ; the heat in summer is never great nay, there are days in June and July when embo- zarse en la capa is deemed prudent by the inhabitants. The cold lasts seven or eight months. Indeed, the cele- brated saying of ' Diez meses de invi- erno y dos de infierno,' now reversed when applied somewhat unjustly to Ma- drid, originated at Burgos and in 1526, Navagero, in 'Viaggio in Ispagna' (Padua, 1718, p. 387), mentions it, add- ing how cold and wretched he thought the climate, and qiiotes this other saying, 'El sol como las otras cosas viene a Burgos de Carreo.' Neverthe- less, though certainly disagreeable, BURGOS. 69 it is not unwholesome, and the mor- tality tables show an annual death-rate of only 1 in 30. May and October are the best months for a visit. Directory. Hired carnages at both the hotels ; no tariff. Excursions to Cartuja, 20r.; to Las Huelgas, 10r., also at 45 Calle de San Juan, and at the Dorado, Calle de Abellanos. Horses may be hired opposite the cavalry bar- racks, and at No. 8 Calle de Lain Calvo. Government caballos padres for the army may be seen at Calle Sta. Clara, opposite to the convent. Baths. Banos del Recuerdo at Los Vadillos, marble and jasper baths ; and de los Jardines, in Calle de la Puebla. Photographers. Views of Burgos may be obtained at Plaza Mayor, No. 9. Messrs. Aparicio, Plaza de Santander, have some pretty good views also. Lodgings. Few and very indifferent ; Casa de los Dos Her- manos, on the Paseo de la Isla, cheap and relatively clean. General Description. Tourists, in their eagerness to reach Madrid, or, it may be, Bayonne, are too apt to pass by this city without visiting it. The well-merited reputation of dulness and desolation as a back -going provincial capital, and its second-rate hotels, have undoubtedly contributed to this indif- ference; but as in Spain the past alone is to be sought, we advise travellers to put up with this, and not miss Burgos. It is among the interesting cities of Spain, as possessing one of her most magnificent cathedrals, several curious churches, the bones of the Cid, that popular hero of legendary Spain, and monuments, streets, and houses which still retain, though fading fast, the style and character of the Gotho-Castilian period. Not entering into the early history of the city, and leaving aside Vilamor's as- sertion that Burgos was founded by King Brigo, and re-peopled by Alfonso the Catholic, and called Briga, we shall be content to follow Rodriguez, Florez, etc. , who state that Burgos was founded (884) by Diego Porcelos, a Castilian knight, and his son-in-law, the Ger- man (?) Nuno Belchides, who, with the object of repelling the infidel and serv- ing Santiago, to whose shrine he was de- voutly going, halted here some time, when the fair daughter of Porcelos, Sulla Bella, won his heart ; upon which they both decided on concentrating into one fortified place the scattered villagers and serfs, and built up Burgos, so called from the German Burg (a fortified place ; Gothic, Bargain ; An- cient Saxon, Borgan, and Byrgans). Under Fruela II. (926) the descendants of Porcelos were traitorously massacred by the orders of the former. Burgos continued to be governed by a sort of oligarchical council composed of judges elected by the people, and amongst whom Lain Calvo, Nuno Rasuro, etc., were the most celebrated. Fernan Gon- zalez was the first who assumed the title of Count of Castile, which be- came hereditary. He shook off the yoke of Leon, and thus began the monarchy, or reino, which, by the marriage of his granddaughter to the King of Navarre, united in the latter's son, Ferdinand I. (1067), the crowns of Leon and Castile. Burgos was the birth- place of the Cid, and the scene of many of his acts of prowess and legendary deeds, as also that of Pedro el Cruel, of San Julian, and San Lesme. The Cas- tellano Viejo, the true type of the rancio Spaniard, is to be seen here in all the glory of his tattered cloak, worn like the toga of a Roman senator, and truly, as Theophile Gauthier defines it, 'la sublimite du haillon. ' The Burgalese is one of the most unprogressive of Spanish provincianos; the railway, now at the gates of this city, calls forth from him no energy, or spirit of emulation, 70 BURGOS CATHEDRAL. and besides some paltry manufacturer or two of paper and cloth, the queso de Burgos (a cream cheese made with sheep's milk) would seem to be the staple produce of the land. The city is crossed by the Arlanzon. The Pico, a smaller stream, passes through some portions, and is divided into several water-courses called esguevas. Sights. Cathedral, S. Agueda, Huel- gas, etc.; Castle ; old houses ; LaCartuja. erfje oratfjeUrat. The see of Oca (Auca), a place situated 8 leagues from Burgos, is said to have been founded by San- tiago (the Apostle St. James), when on his way from Galicia to Zaragoza he stopped in this Roman colony, whose foundation some Spanish his- GROUND-PLAN OF BURGOS CATHEDRAL (l3th century Gothic). torians gravely ascribe to the sons of Tubal, Noah's grandchildren. In 1075 Alfonso VI. caused it to be removed to Burgos, and gave to the church about to be built several of his palaces. From political motives it was declared exenta, and depended directly from Rome until it became metropolitan in the reign of Philip II., who obtained from Pope Gregory XIII. the grant of this privi- lege. General Style. This cathedral is un- doubtedly one of the finest in Europe, and one which must be looked upon, saving portions which belong to subse- quent periods, as a grand and perfect specimen of the 13th century Gothic in Spain. The principal characteristics are, great purity of style, harmony between the parts, great pomp and beauty of ornament. It is not so grace- ful, elegant, and airy as the cathedral of Leon, but more sublime, richer in details, both outside and in the inte- rior, and possessing more striking out- ward picturesqueness and character, notwithstanding its unfortunate posi- tion on uneven ground, and the vicinity of choking hovels. The cathedral belongs chiefly to the earliest period BURGOS CATHEDRAL. of ogival architecture in Spain, though in it may be studied the ogive in its different modifications from the 13th to the 16th century. The ornamenta- tion is overdone in parts, but it is always chaste and beautiful. The sculpture is very good and effective. There are few paintings. Foundation. Ferdinand el Santo founded this church in honour of his marriage with Dona Beatrice, daughter of the Duke of Suabia. Bishop Maurice, an English- man by birth, laid the first stone, to- gether with the king and the Infante Antonio de Molina, July 20, 1221. The Bishop it was who had negotiated the marriage and accompanied the princess to Burgos. He had also aided the king with his counsel and influence in civil wars, and done much towards inclining his mind to undertake the building. It was not, however, Llaguna asserts, during Bishop Maurice's rule, and under his active direction, zeal, and lofty spirit, that the main body of the edifice was com- pleted, but only a portion of it, which is distinct in style from the rest. The name of the architect is unknown. "When descried from a distance, the impres- sion is that of a most striking edifice. The towers and filigree pinnacles are then seen rising into the blue ether, so airy and open-worked, that by night the stars may be seen through them. The elegant curve formed on the E. side by the prolongation of the lateral naves round the apse is somewhat concealed by the chapel of the Constables, a church in itself, and the quadrangular one of Santiago. The lateral outlines of the building have lost also some of their original symmetry on the N. side, although they gained variety from the several additions made to the main body of chapels and offices. But a remark- able trait of architectural beauty, not always observed in buildings of any sort, is here very admirably effected j we mean that the forms should be bold projections or reproductions in relief of the internal parts, as in embossing. Thus in this cathedral the eye embraces the inward distribution at one glance from the shape of the parts outside ; we see the Constable's chapel plainly, with its delicate open-worked turrets at the angles and thirty- two statuettes of saints, forming a separate portion, differing in ornaments and appearance from the rest. The transept or crucero, which belongs to the Renaissance, rises higher, and has an octagonal shape, with eight turrets ornamented with twenty-four full relievo heads, and twenty-four full-sized statues of female saints, the virtues, etc., all canopied ; each turret is crowned with an angel holding an iron cross. There are numberless statues, statuettes of kings and saints and prophets, placed between or under the corridors that run round the crucero outside. On the four large pilasters at the angles are large open-worked capitals ; all the rest of this portion of the cathedral rests on the four toral arches. Facades. The principal facade W. is the Puerta del Perdon, or of Sta. Maria, composed of three portals corresponding with the three naves ; at each side of the fagade are two towers of goodly size, very light and airy. The por- tals have pointed arches. This portion of the fagade was formerly richly de- corated with statues, etc., which dis- appeared in 1794, wh?n the chapter, seized by the contagious spirit of inno- vation and modernising, removed much of what constituted the beauty of this fagade, and introduced a paltry Greco- Roman front. The only remnants of the former sculpture are the Coronation of the Virgin, on the portal to the right ; the Conception on the left one ; and at the sides of the central portal the statues of King Alfonso VI., Ferdinand III. (the Saint), and the Bishops Maurice and 72 BURGOS CATHEDRAL, Arterio of Oca. The second tier or stage of this facade is formed by an open- worked balustrade corridor, with turrets and a fine rose-window with trefoils ; over this portion there are large ogival windows with Gothic tracery, and the third and last stage consists of two very richly ornamented windows, some- what like agimeces, and divided into different compartments by pointed mi- nute arches, pillarets, and open-worked roses, with eight statues of youths with crowns. This stage is finished by a balustrade which links the two lateral towers, and whose open-work composes the words, 'Pulchra es et decora,' in praise of the Virgin, whose image, hold- ing the Infant Deity and surrounded by angels, is in the centre and under a canopy. On the capitals on the sides are the words ' Pax vobis' and the Vir- gin's monogram ; on the left, * Ecce Agnus Dei,' and the monogram of Christ. The statues of the Saviour and of St. John the Baptist are here, and correspond with the inscription. There are around the lateral towers, at different stages, not less than seventy-three statues, life- size, representing the Evangelists, doc- tors of the church, and saints. The towers themselves are 300 ft. high, and rise (separately from the main body) from the porch only, this lower part being the only one ascribed to Bp. Maurice. The higher portions of these towers are the work of Juan de Colonia, who had just arrived in Spain, and who undertook them in 1442. The two towers were built by Bishops Cartagena and Acufia, whose shields are placed at the base and summit ; they are admi- rable examples of the Gothic in its purest and richest forms, and the effect produced is enhanced by the warm, white, marble-like, and transparent stone of Ontoria, out of which they are cut and worked. The Puerto, Alto,, also called de la Co- roneria, or Los Ap6stoles, is one of the transept ingresses on the K, and the pendant to that of El Sarmental. It is harmonious in composition and of good style. The portal is ogival, with con- centric arches, profusely decorated with effigies of saints and fantastical figures. In the centre of the arch is a Christ seated ; on His right the Virgin, and on His left St. John, both lifting up their hands to Him in a supplicant manner ; different other figures representing the good and evil angels, with details, are said to represent the struggle of good and evil ; and man praying his Maker to intercede on his behalf. The exe- cution is very rude. Over the door is exhibited a church with its belfry, with statues on the sides: those on the left are said to represent St. Domingo of Guzman and St. Francis of Assise ask- ing the King of Castile to grant to them the papal bulls to found the orders of Dominicans and Francis- cans. The upper and second stage of this fa9ade consists of two large ogival windows of early Gothic. In the third are agimez lights, sixteen statues in niches and otherwise. This door is some 30 ft. above the level of the nave. To the right is a railed-in chapel, with an effigy of our Lady of Joyfulness (Alegria) ! The Puerto, de la Pellegeria is situated in an angle of the transept towards the E. ; the style is plateresque, and the composi- tion of the whole, including elegance of form and richness of details, renders this portal a magnificent specimen of the Spanish silversmith work as applied to the revival of architecture, whence the plateresque derived its name. It is di- vided into three perpendicular compart- ments. In the lateral are statues of Sant- iago, St. John the Baptist, etc. That of the centre is subdivided into two parts, the lower occupied by the door, the sides of which are profusely decorated BURGOS CATHEDRAL. 73 with minute details and statuettes, and the upper portion is filled with sculpture representing the martyrdom of SS. John the Baptist and the Evangelist. Over this is a Virgin and Child, a bishop kneeling, and angels playing on flutes and other instruments. On the sides are the effigies of SS. Peter and Paul ; a cornice runs over this sort of retciblo, and is crowned with the escut- cheon of Bishop Fonseca, who defrayed the expenses of this beautiful portal. Its name, * pellegeria, ' is derived from a street that once existed there, and was chiefly inhabited by fell mongers. Puerto, del Sarmental, also called del Arzobispo, is divided into three por- tions, and corresponds with the portal of the Apostles. It is ascended from the transept floor by a staircase of twenty-eight steps ; the door is decorated with statues of Moses and Aaron, and the Apostles SS. Peter and Paul, etc. In the tympanum of the doorway is the Saviour amid the four Evangelists in the act of writing the Gospels, with their attributes ; below this are twelve Apostles. Around the same arch are forty-five images of seraphs, cherubs, and angels, holding candles, censers, and musical instruments. In the third stage there are three windows, with pillarets, angels, and arches, inter- twined in the style of the Gothic at its third and latter period. The rose- window is magnificent, with painted glass of 14th century, of rich hue and good execution. There are about sixty- four statues in all. It is called Sarmen- tal from the name (sarmientos, vine- shoots) of a wealthy family who gave up the houses they held hereabouts to the cathedral. There are some Gothic tombs of good style, belonging to the 14th century, at the sides of the steps leading to the Puerta del Sarmental. They contain the bodies of prelates ; and are very curious for their sculpture, and the manner and spirit of the scenes repre- sented the torments of Hades, delights of Heaven, etc. Interior. The form is a Latin cross. The dimensions are : Length, 300 ft. (Spanish), from the door of Sta. Maria (Perdon) to Chapel del Condestable ; width, 213 ft. between the door of the Sarmental to that of La Coroneria, 93 ft. being the average breadth throughout, and 193 ft. its greatest height. There are three naves, which are cut perpen- dicularly by that which runs parallel to the principal fa9ade. The central one is lofty, airy, and bold ; the lateral ones are lower and of smaller propor- tions. They are separated by twenty pillars of octagonal form, strong and massive, yet neither heavy nor incon- gruous, but rather made light, slender, and elegant by the engaged shafts. The interior generally breathes a spirit of solemnity, serenity, grandeur, and noble strength. The natural whiteness of the stone, augmented by the light caused by the absence of painted glass, gives it a new appearance, as if the building had been but yesterday com- pleted. The stained glass, mostly put up in the 14th century, was very beau- tiful. It was destroyed by the explo- sion of the castle in 1813. The pave- ment, unworthy of the rest, is about to be removed and replaced by beautiful Carrara, towards which expense the Queen of Spain has recently given 6000 dollars (about 1200). The minor bay, which, with the larger, forms the cross, begins at the Portal del Sarmental, and ends at the Puerta Alta. The Lantern. At the point of intersec- tion of these two bays is placed the crucero or Lantern, the gem of the whole edifice, which was called so by Charles V., who added that it ought to be placed in a case, and not be seen as other ordinary works, and Philip II. 74 BURGOS CATHEDRAL. said it was rather the work of angels than of man. The lofty dome, or cim- borio, was finished on December 4, 1567, and replaced the prior one which fell in in March 1539. To the present one all the Burgalese contributed with their purse, and especially so Card. Juan Alvarez de Toledo, son of the Duke of Alva, and his mother, whose escutcheons are displayed with that of Charles V. on the pillars towards the presbytery. It was designed by Maese Philip Yigarni alias De Borgona, and executed by him and Juan Castaneda and Juan de Yallejo, both from Burgos. Philip Vagarni was also a Burgalese. The Transept. The transept is formed by four very large piers, which rise like so many towers, and are decorated with a profusion of sculpture of great deli- cacy, taste, and richness. These may be divided into four stages ; the lower one is octagonal, and forms the pedestal or basement, and is decorated with six- teen mezzo-relievo figures, allegorical of Prudence, Justice, Charity, Prayer, etc. , and Prophets. In the second the pillars are fluted, and bear shields of the said Archbp. Alvarez de Toledo and those of the cathedral. In the third and fourth are twenty full-sized statues of doctors of the church, apostles, etc. From the cornice spring the four toral or main arches from amid bunches of fruit. They are richly decorated, and bear four angels holding scrolls with date of building. At each angle there is a statue, size of life, supporting the cimborio, and over them angels, shells, and busts. At the eight angles there are seraphs, waving banners bearing arms of the cathedral, round which is the versicle, ' I will praise Thee in Thy temple, and will glorify Thy name, Thou whose works are miracles. ' There are numberless statues of prophets, pin- nacles, etc., under the galleries, over the windows, etc. This lantern is roofed in by an elegant dome, the pat- tern of which is a star ; the height of this from the pavement is 173 ft. The style of this magnificent work is Re- naissance, with traces of the Gothic or- namentation of the third period ; the composition and execution of the sculp - ture is classic and pure. There is in the whole a splendour, a breadth, a boldness seldom equalled in any other work. The exterior is very beautiful also ; the stone of Ontoria, out of which it has been made, enhances the effect. High Altar. The style of the retablo belongs to the Revival, and comprises the three orders. It is full of relievos, with subjects drawn from the life of the Virgin, and statues of apostles and saints. The elaborate sagrario is de- corated with relievos representing scenes from the Old and New Testament. This retablo was designed and executed by Rodrigo and his brother Martin del Haya for 40,000 ducats. It was gilt and estofado by Urbina of Madrid and Martinez of Valladolidfor 11, 000 ducats, which were given by Bishop Yela, 1596. The sculpture was begun in 1577, and completed in 1593, and is generally con- sidered good. To the right of the altar are the tombs of the Infante Don Juan (son of Alfonso the Learned), Count Don Sancho, and his wife Beatrice. For this reason it is called a Capilla Real. In the Transagrario are alto-relievos representing the Passion of Christ. These spirited ivory-like compositions date 1540, and are the work of Juan de Borgona. Between the pillars of the central nave are six rejas, which are fixed on jasper pedestals and grees. Those on each side of the presbytery are of bronze wrought for Archbishop Navarretto by a lay monk called P. Martinez. They are all very beautiful. On the outside of the above-mentioned pillars of the central nave are statues of saints, etc., the size of life. BURGOS CATHEDRAL. 75 The Choir is very fine, and is com- posed of 103 walnut stalls divided into two tiers. In the Lower Tier the arms, back, and seat are ornamented with delicate box sculpture. Between them are pilasters full of mouldings, and all literally covered with flowers, ornaments, human figures, chimeras, fantastic ani- mals and foliage, the pasamanos or balusters being most originally deco- rated with quaint figures. The backs are ornamented with relievo medallions representing scenes from the life of the Virgin, and martyrdoms of different saints. In the Upper Tier there are also abundant mouldings, inlaid and figured. The backs and respaldos are ornamented with relievos from the New Testament, crowned with a bust. In this tier runs a series of alternately-placed columns varied in sculpture with figures, and terminated by a sort of canopy. In the front are medallions representing scenes from the Old Testament, and in the intermediate spaces are statuettes of apostles, sibyls, and various saints. Ob- serve all the phases of the Creation, the legend of the deluge, the poem of Abraham, and the story of Jacob. On the backs of this upper tier are scenes from the New Testament. On those of thelower tier are scenes already described, and statuettes of saints, the third being St. Atendio riding the devil, who, ac- according to legends and Father Feijoo ('Cartas Eruditas,' etc., vol. i., p. 24), took him from Jaen to Rome in one night. The stalls are of different periods and artists ; the lower is the best and most classical. This fine Ee- naissance Italian -like work dates 1497- 1512. The choir was formerly near the high altar, and Bishop La Fuerte Ampudia had it removed to satisfy cer- tain ideas of precedence. The archi- episcopal stall or throne is a copy of that of Granada, and much ornamented with statuettes, scenes from Scripture, etc. Card. Zapata, a great benefactoi of the cathedral, had it enclosed and railed in. The trascoro or reredos was put up at a cost of 10,000 ducats, but as it did not please those artist-prelates of the times, it was pulled down, and the present one, costing a similar sum, substituted. The splendid reja, which cost 5500 ducats, is the work of J. B. Celma (1602), and the gift of Cardinal Zapata, whose canting arms, boots and shoes, are placed here. The trascoro pillars rise upon jasper greesand pedestals ; there are two statues of SS. Peter and Paul, of white marble, brought from Italy. The relievo repre- sents St. Paul in the desert, fed miracu- lously with loaves brought by philan- thropic crows. The sculptor was a Carthusian monk called Leiva, ob. 1637. All the relievos, columns, statues of saints, and altar-pieces, were the work of Bishop Manso of Zuniga, who gave 16,000 ducats towards it, and the sculp- tor was one Fray Juan de Kizi, a Bene- dictine monk. The organs are inferior in style, but good as instruments ; one is of 1706, the other of 1806. Under the first lectern, placed at the entrance of choir, is the jacent effigy of Bishop Maurice, 'Pontifex et Fundator,' ob. 1240, of whose family little is known else than that he was an Englishman by birth, and that he was elected Bishop of Bur- gos in 1214. The Virgin on the second lectern is by Ancheta, and considered very fine (1578). Chapels. These number fifteen, but differ in style and proportions, as they were built at different periods, and are therefore not in keeping with the main portion of the church. Chapel of Sta. Tecla.A. church in itself ; tawdry, though much admired by the natives, whom glitter and gaudiness delight, of churriguresque style, founded by Arch- bishop Samaniego in 1734. The media 76 BURGOS CATHEDRAL. tiaranja, or dome, is well executed, the colours are fresh as the first day. On the site of the present baptistery, old and curious in its way, there was for- merly a small chapel of Santiago, in which Alfonso XL instituted the order of knighthood of La Vanda (the badge) in 1330, of which the Catholic kings were brothers, cdfrades (companions). Chapel ofSta. Ana. Not very interest- ing in itself, but see round the urna the sculptured genealogical tree of Christ, beginning with Abraham and finishing at Christ. Founded by Bishop Acuna, 1474, of florid Gothic style. The statu- ary here is not very good. There is a Holy Family, ascribed to Andrea del Sarto ; a St. Philip Neri and St. Francis, by M. Cerezo ; the few others here are in- different. Bosarte and other connoisseurs mention with encomium the small Go- thic altar and retablo, with tomb of Archdeacon Fuente Pelayo, ob. 1492, enriched with sculptured scenes from the New Testament ; the other sepul- chres, including that of the founder, are not very fine, and date 15th century. Escalera (staircase) de la Puerto, Alia. This staircase of 38 steps was rendered necessary from the uneven site upon which the cathedral stands. It is a magnificent specimen of its kind, and of Renaissance style, not exempt from Gothic details. The plan is novel, the work most elaborate, and the effect charming. It is ascribed to Diego Siloe, whose handling of foliage, children, lion's claws, griffins, draperies, etc., are, says Bosarte, 'not be mistaken with those of any other sculptor. ' The iron balustrade was wrought by Cristobal Andino. The sepulchral altar of Ber- nardino Gutierrez is remarkable for the exquisitely-sculptured children over the arch ; the artist's name is not known some ascribe it to Torrigiano, M. Angelo's rival. In the same nave is the very old chapel of San Nicolas. On the left entering is a tomb, with standing effigy of Bishop Villahoz, ob. 1 275 ; as bodies used at that time to be interred standing and embedded in walls, these tombs were hence called 'armarios.' There are some portraits here of Pope Gregory XL, Canon of Burgos (1371), and Alexander VI. , archdeacon of the same cathedral, 1492, etc. Caesar Borgia, and father of Lucrezia Borgia. Close to it is a fine and richly-sculptured tomb of the learned Archdeacon Fernandez Vil- legas (1536), who translated Dante into Spanish. Gapilla del Condestable. A connS- table, condestable (from which constable), as the Latin etymology explains it somewhat (comes stabuli, Ducange, etc.), was ' an officer, so called, because, like the Lord High Constable of Eng- land, he was to regulate all matters of chivalry tilts, tournaments, and feats of arms which were performed on horseback.' (Blackstone's Com. 355.) He also commanded the cavalry, and bore the royal standard in battle. This chapel was founded, as the inscription relates, * by D. Pedro Fernandez de Ve- lasco, Count of Haro, of the House of the Infantes of Lara, five times Viceroy of these realms, who was present at the wars of Portugal and Granada, and con- tributed to the Catholic kings obtaining these kingdoms, etc.' The Duke of Frias is the present heir to this founder, and is the patron and possessor of the chapel. It is the largest and most beautiful in the cathedral It was built by Juan de Colonia, and parts, though veiy few, of his works are as German as his name. The style is the Gothic florid (with somewhat of the Saracenic ornament) of the 15th century, and the ground-plan is octagonal, with a bold cimborio and large ogival win- dows. The entrance is magnificent, and formed by a semicircular arch full of details, and of that peculiar and intri- BURGOS CATHEDRAL. 77 cate ornament called cresteria (crest- work or niche-work); above it are seve- ral charming clusters of pinnacles, with statuettes and larger subjects under most richly-worked canopies, looking like piled-up lace of point d'Angleterre. Below this portion of the arch there are numberless pillarets, figures, and child- ren, supporting cornices; then come other statuettes placed at the side of children with crowns of laurel ; in the centre of one of the latter is a sun and Jesus' name; in the other, a cross. Over this the Annunciation of the Virgin, St. Gabriel on one side and the Virgin on the other. The railing, orreja, is one of the finest specimens of Renaissance extant, though age and neglect have done much to efface its primary splen- dour and tarnish the colouring, etc. It was the masterwork of Cristobal Andino, and was wrought in 1523. It is com- posed of two bodies and an attic, crowned by an asp or cross of San Andres. Observe everything here : The two kneeling figures holding an escutcheon ; the heads of Jesus and Mary ; and the inscription on the other side of them the ' Ego sum Alpha et Omega, ' and statue of the Saviour ; the four-sided columns, then the ba- lustraded pillars higher up. The lock is so contrived that nobody can open the reja who does not possess the secret of pulling back a certain spring ingeniously concealed. The principal retablo is of the Revival, with traces of the grates to, and some remnants of the primitive Gothic one, which was removed and replaced by the present one. It forms two stages ; the first is formed by the Purification and figures of the Virgin, St. Joseph, Infant Deity, etc., and a girl carrying doves in a basket. On ths cornice and on one side is a statue representing the Law of * Gracia' (Holy Grace), personified by a young woman with eyes lifted up to heaven ; as a pendant, is another of the Written Law, represented by an aged man holding a book. The upper por- tion is filled by relievos of scenes from the New Testament. Over it all are a small shell and a skull. There are a few other figures of saints, ascribed by some to Becerra, and by others to Juni. There are four large stone escutcheons with arms of the Velascos on the walls, supported by wild men and women. There are fourteen windows in the chapel, with painted glass, representing scenes from Passion and arms of founders. The statues of St. Austin and St. Jerome close to the pillars are good, but in- ferior to the same latter saint placed in a retablo of a small chapel on the left. It is by Becerra, one of Spain's few and great sculptors. The Gothic retablo opposite is very ancient. Close to the steps of the high altar are the magnifi- cent tombs of the founders, all of jasper except the effigies, which are of Car- rara marble. They were sculptured in Italy in 1540. The effigy of the con- stable, who died in 1492 when he was Viceroy of Castile, etc., is lying armed cap-d,-pi$, full length, and the muscles of his hands, elaborate details of his mailed armour, cushion, etc. , are won- derful. There is a huge block of po- lished jasper close to it, now without object, and weighing about 200 cwt. The effigy of the constable's wife, * La muy ilustre Senora Dona Mencia de Mendoza, Condesa de Haro ' (ob. 1500, set. 79), is also full length, and lying on richly- embroidered cushions, with elaborately-embroidered gloves, and a lapdog at her feet, emblem of fidelity. The vault is under these tombs. In the sacristy is the picture of a Magdalen, ascribed to Leonardo da Vinci ; the colouring is beautiful. Beneath it is the little portable ivory altar, which the constable carried about with him in his campaigns ; the other pictures and por- 78 BURGOS CATHEDRAL. traits are inferior. Ask for a fine work of Arfe's, a cross, and several other jealously-guarded relics. (N.JB. This chapel must be visited before 12.30, or by special arrangement. ) The Chapel of Santiago is the largest in the cathedral, and serves as the parish church. The reja, which rests on jasper pedestals, is crowned by a statue of the patron of Spain. There is a fine tomb of J. 0. de Velasco, Abbot of San Quirce, ob. 1557 ; it is placed on the left on entering. There is also a tomb of the Lesmes, whose father, Pedro de Astudillo, founded the cele- brated chapel of the Magi Kings in the cathedral of Cologne. In the, high altar there is the apostle on horseback. In the centre of the chapel lies Bishop Juan de Villacreces, ob. 1463, in an alabaster tomb ; close to it a jasper one of the Regidor of Burgos, Melgosa, ob. 1523, and his wife. There are some other tombs, of no great merit either in the chapel or its sacristy ; observe, never- theless, Bishop Cabeza de Vaca's plater- esque tomb, 1512, and that of his brother Don Pedro (literally cow's head, an illustrious family in Spain Front de Boeuf). The five altars here are in- different. Sacristia Nueva. Formerly composed of two chapels. There are some old mirrors and indifferent pictures ascribed to Giordano (Nativity of Christ), a Christ and Ecce Homo to Murillo, and in the ante-vestry a St. Francis, as- scribed to Mateo Cerezo all doubtful. The cajoneria, or chest of drawers to hold the church and priest's ornaments, etc., are finely carved ; all the rest is churrigueresque and tawdry. There are some curious objects : a jasper table, a rich specimen of braseros, a fine proces- sional cross, etc. Chapel of San Enrique, Founded by Archbp. Peralta, at the cost of 100,000 ducats. Observe the magnificent kneel- ing effigy and tomb of the founder, ob. 1679 ; the bronze lectern is good ; the pavement and steps are of alabaster; the stalls are inlaid. In the sacristy is a very curious table, and a Dolorosa and Christ ascribed to Cerezo. Chapel of San Juan de Sahagun. Here is the much-venerated Virgin de Oca. Here is the tomb also of the Beato Lesmes, 'hijo de Burgos, abo- gado del dolor de rinones,' who is be- lieved to cure pains in the kidneys, and said to have earned this privilege by the patience with which he bore the same complaint, which had been caused by constantly bending when he distri- buted corn to the poor. See a picture of a Christ de la Agonia, by Theoto- copuli, il Greece, whose signature is placed at the foot of the cross. In its sacristy is the ground-plan of the cathe- dral. The Relicario was formerly a chapel of St. Peter, and abounds in the usual gifts of kings and great personages, consisting of legs, toes, arms, jaws, teeth, and other parts of the bodies of saints ; here is kept the image of the Virgin de Oca, who nodded assent to a devout senorita who made her a witness to her faithless lover's promise of marriage. Chapel of la Presentacion. Spacious; founded by Canon Lerma in 1519. Over the modern high altar is a Virgin, ascribed by Pouz and other good con- noissuers to Michael Angelo; others say it is rather by Sebastian del Piombo, but all concur in considering it very beautifully executed and composed. It was sent here by a wealthy Florentine, Mozzi. A fine white marble tomb of Canon Jacobo de Bilbao, who, a good son, and therefore a righteous man, erected a mausoleum to his * matri di- lectse' and himself with the Christian and simple epitaph : ' Because I have hoped in thee, Lord, and have entrusted to Thee my soul. ' Tomb of the founder, with effigy, said to be a portrait. BURGOS CATHEDRAL. 79 Chapel of Santisimo Oristo de la Ago- nia. Here is kept the celebrated and much-venerated Oristo de Burgos, which was, according to Florez, carved by Nico- demus, shortly after he, with Joseph of Arimathea, buried our Lord. It was found inside a box floating in the sea, and after many eventful journeys and mishaps, was finally removed to this cathedral from the convent of St. Agus- tine in 1836. It certainly is of very early date, and most admirably model- led ; the anatomy perfect, a deep ex- pression of pain ; the hair, beard, eye- lashes, thorns, are all real. To this image are ascribed numberless miracles, and it is said to sweat on Fridays, and even to bleed now and then. 'Rien n'est plus lugubre, ' says a French writer, * et plus inquietant a voir que ce long fantdme crucifie avec son faux air de vie et son immobilite morte. ' The image is girt with a richly embroidered crino- line. The pictures are indifferent ; the Descent from the Cross is ascribed to Ribera (Spagnoletto). The clocks of the cathedral are not very old ; they are furnished with small figures that come out and strike the hour, and slide in again, etc. The Cloisters are interesting, and date middle of 14th century. They are spa- cious, and occupy a quadrangle, each gallery being of 89 ft. long by 22 ft. broad. The walls from the outside are pierced with double arches pointed in the shape of agimeces (Moorish windows), subdivided by smaller ones, and richly ornamented with lancet-work, trefoil, pillarets, roses, etc. The principal en- trance is of an early date, and the sculp- ture and details abundant and curious. On the doors is a mezzo-relievo repre- senting Christ's entrance into Jerusa- lem, and other biblical and allegorical scenes and statues of saints, the Evan- gelists, etc. ; these doors were given by Bish op Acuna. Round the arch are two rows of statues, and in the keystone angels holding arrows. In the centre is represented the Baptism in the Jor- dan. A peculiarity distinguishing this from other similar scenes is that our Lord is seated and does not stand. It is thought the Gothic sculptor resorted to this innovation to avoid the some- what irreverent representation of the act by immersion, and not by ablution ; the limbs of the Saviour are actually immersed, to be true to tradition, and yet the figure is seated with dignity and ease. Four statues of David, Isaiah, St. Gabriel, and the Virgin, decorate this splendid door. There is also a head of St. Francis of Assis, eaid to be an extempore portrait by the sculptor, taken at the moment the saint was passing by. It is probable that all the figures on this door were formerly painted. In the interior the ogives of the win- dows are very pure in shape, and deco- rated profusely with foliage, and in the centre with statues of saints and Chris- tian heroes, of good and correct Gothic style. There are, besides, a great num- ber of tombs of different periods and styles, some with good sculptures. There are five chapels also. On enter- ing, to the right, is the tomb of Canon Aguilar, with his effigy in sacerdotal robes, a dog at his feet, and a closed book in his hands ; the date 1482. The tomb of Canon Gadea, chaplain of the Catholic kings, and before of Don En- rique, ob. 1483. The epitaph ends, ' Virtus socia vitae fuit. Gloria mortis comes.' The dress of a knight at one side of the tomb, railed in, is curious ; on the back is a Christ seated, with fig- ures and angels. The pictures are in- different in the chapel de los Reyes. Proceeding on, is the tomb of Sepul- veda, chaplain of the kings Don Juan and Don Enrique of Castile. Observe especially the tomb of Canon Santander, 80 BURGOS CATHEDRAL. ob. 1523 a magnificent work, full of details delicate and chaste. See the charming, youthful, loving Virgin and Child, forming a relievo in the centre of the arch, and carved out of the beau- tiful white Ontoria stone ; the attitude of the head, breathing maternal love, and the ecstacy at being chosen the mo- ther of God, remind one somewhat of that in Raphael's 'Vergine della Seggiola.' There is a freedom, a boldness of com- position and execution seldom attempt- ed by artists of those times. She holds with her right hand a book opened, with her left the Infant, of exquisite model- ling. There are escutcheons with fleurs- de-lys, etc. In the third gallery is a door leading up to the archives, which contain very early and curious documents concerning the cathedral. In a chapel lies the tomb of Juan Cuchiller. He was ser- vant, or rather a knight trenchant (cu- chiller, cwhillo) to Henry III. el Enfer- mo, and a ram avis amongst his kind, who sold his coat to buy de cenar for his master. Happy times ! for now it is rather masters who have finally to sell their coats to procure suppers for their flunkeys. The effigy is of alabas- ter ; a dog, the emblem of fidelity, lies at his feet. On the wall is affixed a heavy dark-looking trunk, called El cofre del Cid. This is supposed to be one of the two trunks which he filled with sand and left as security to the Burgalese Jews, Rachel and Vidas, for a loan of 600 marks, assuring them that they contained all his jewels and gold, but that they were not to open them until his return. There is no proof or evidence in the * Romancero, ' * Cr<5nica Rimada,' etc., of his having ever repaid either the principal or interest. But Mio Cid was then in want of money for the conquest of Valencia, and this hero, who ' fought for his bread, ' was as un- scrupulous as heroes have always been, and always will be. He, a Christian knight, headed infidel armies against his fellow- Christians ; he, a Castilian lord, rebelled and fought against his king ; he betrayed not only these money-lenders, thus out- Jewing the Jews (for to do so was a merit in those times), but Alfonso, the Moorish kings, his allies, everybody, and practised but too well the Al-harbo Khod'aton of Mahomet (Arabice, to wage war is to betray). His favourite author, Mohal- lab, was styled 'The Liar;' but then he knew also the Prophet's words : * There are three sorts of lies which will not be taken into account at the Last Judgment : 1st, that which is concoct- ed with an object to reconcile two per- sons who have quarrelled ; 2dly, that which a husband tells when he promises anything to his wife; and, 3dly, a chieftain's word in time of war. ' This old trunk is undoubtedly, says a French writer, * La doyenne des malles du monde, ' and contained some parchments till very recently. Sala Capitular contains some paint- ings ascribed to Giordano, and a 'St. John the Evangelist,' also ascribed to Murillo. The walls on great holidays are hung with fine old tapestry. The roof forms a fine artesonado : around the cornice run versicles from the 3d chap, of the Book of Proverbs. In the Sacristia Vieja are some fine Venetian mirrors and two coral branches. An admirably carved cajoneria (presses), to keep the beautifully embroidered ter- nos, carved by a Benedictine monk called Pedro Martinez. There are 128 portraits of the bishops and archbishops of Burgos. The eighth arcade of the fourth gallery was supposed to have contained the former Royal Chapel, where Ferdinand was married to Beat- rice by Maurice, the English Bishop of Burgos, November 30th, 1219. Ob- serve their two former statues, and BURGOS. 81 opposite four statuettes representing this king's sons, and in the third angle of the cloister a statuette of Bishop Maurice, also St. Ferdinand, and two other figures. There are other cloisters beneath, with good sculptures and an infinity of tombs, statues, and epitaphs of 13th and 14th centuries. The cathedral contains 7 staircases, 112 windows, 36 railings, 144 pictures, upwards of 60 tombs (worked out and raised above the ground), 7 organs, 9 baptismal fonts, 9 choirs, and 9 lec- terns, 10 confessionals, 44 altars, with nearly 100 full-length statues. On en- tering the cathedral, Sta. Tecla is the first chapel on the right, and the Chapel del Cristo that on the left. Church opened from 5 A.M. to 8 P.M. High mass with organ music at 9.30 P.M. on Sundays and holidays; organs good. To see jewels, apply to capellan mayor. To be seen only after 3.30 P.M. To visit the archives, make copies of pic- tures, and the like, apply to the cabildo. Churches. Sta. Agueda or Gadea, deserves a visit, as an historical monu- ment associated with the poetic and chivalrous legend of the Cid. It was one of the iglesias juraderas that is, of purgation by adjuration. It was there- fore in this chapel that Alfonso VI. was obliged, in the presence of the Cid, to swear that he had no part in the mur- der of his brother Don Sancho at the siege of Zamora. According to authen- tic history if such there be the king swore on the cerrojo, or a lock, which was the touchstone of his veracity ; other authors say on the Gospels. According to the ' Romancero,' it runs thus : 1 In Sta. Agueda, at Burgos, where knights are wont to take the oaths, the oath of Alfonso vras also taken after his brother's death. The gallant Cid, who held a crucifix, made him swear the truth upon an iron lock, a cross- bow, and the Gospels. The words he speaks are so awful that the king shudders at them. ( Tf thou shouldst not speak the truth on what is asked thee, namely if thou hadst any part in the murder of thy brother may knaves kill thee, knaves from Asturias, and not from Castile; may thee kill thee with iron-pointed bludgeons, and not with lances nor shafts ; with horn-handled knives, and not with gilt poniards. May those that do so wear clogs, and not laced shoes ; may they wear rustics' cloaks and not the Courtray cloaks, or those made of curled silk ; canvas shirts, and not Hollands embroidered ; may each of them be mounted on an ass, and not on a mule or a horse ; may they make use of rope-bridles, and not of leathern ones well tanned ; may they kill thee in the fields, and not in a city or a vil- lage ; and may they tear thy heart all panting from thy breast!' The oath was so awful that the king did not venture to take it. But a knight, a friend of the king, said unto him : ' Swear, and fear naught, brave king, for never was a king perjurious nor a pope ex- communicated.' The gallant king then took the oath, and swore he had had no hand in his brother's assassination ; but even then he was filled with anger and indignation : ' Thou wast wrong, O Cid, to make me take that oath, for later thou wilt have to kiss my hand.' ' To kiss a king's hand is no honour to me.' ' Get thee hence from this my land, thou Cid, false knight, and come not back till a year has elapsed,' ' etc. The church is uninteresting, com- posed of a single ogival nave of a pure style, and a fine Revival tomb. The famous lock of the Cid was affixed up out of reach by Bishop Don Pascual de la Fuente. San Esteban. Gothic (1280-1350) ; formerly a convent. The portico is com- posed of three stages of ogives with figures canopied, and of good effect. The interior is formed of three spacious naves. The lofty arches are orna- mented with the Byzantine pattern called Grecas by the Spaniards. The retablos are modern ; a plateresque tomb on the left of the vestry door; pictures inferior. San Pablo (1415-35, now cavalry barracks) contains some fine Revival tombs, of the middle of 16th century, and a good cloister. In San Nicolas there is a stone retablo richly carved, and tombs of the 16th and beginning of 16th century. 82 BURGOS PUBLIC BUILDINGS. San Gil (14th century). Some fine specimens of Gothic sepulchres ; a very interesting and elegant iron pulpit and fine retablos in chapels K". and S. of choir. Streets. The principal street of Bur- gos is the Espolon, which also forms a promenade along the banks of the river. The Plaza Mayor is a large square, de- signed by Ventura Rodriguez, the last great (?) architect of Spain (1783). In the centre is a very mediocre bronze statue of Charles III. ; the fashionable barrio in former days was in and about the Calle Alta. The older streets are Calle San Lorenzo, Avellanos, and San Juan ; the widest street is del Huerto del Rey. The streets, ill-paved and prosy for one's feet as they are, abound, many of them, with associations of the ever-poetic past, and their names are well known to the reader of Castilian history Calle de Lain Calvo, Fernan Gonzalez, Cid, Diego Porcelos, Nuiio Rasura, etc. The Town Hall is a modern building, containing some very middling modern portraits, said to be likenesses of Bur- galese worthies. The gates are most picturesque ; especially the Arco de Santa Maria, which is said to have been erected by the Burgalese on the occasion of the visit of Charles Y., and to reconcile him to them after the part they had taken in the Comunero move- ment. It was decorated with the statues of the popular heroes of the city, the Cid, Lain Calvo, Fernan Gonzalez, etc. , and that of the Ocesar was placed in the centre. Over the arch, which was origi- nally painted and gilt, is the image of the Virgin, to whom it was ostensibly dedicated. The gate is ornamented with turrets and battlements, and, with the circular (cubo) bastions of the former walls of this once mighty capital, forms a very effective and interesting spot. It was erected on the site of the Torre de Santa Maria, from which Don Pedro el Justiciero hurled the Justicia Mayor Garci Laso de La Vega. The rooms placed over the arch were the former Town Hall of the city ; these have two horseshoe doors with stucco patterns. The Arco de Fernan Gonzalez was erected to the memory of that hero by Philip II. It is of Doric style, and effective. Close by in the Calle Alta was the solar, or mansion of the Cid, on the site of which Charles III. erected (1784) the present paltry and insignifi- cant monument. On the obelisks are the shields of Burgos and of the Cid. The Cid was born here in 1026, was baptized in the Church of San Martin, now no longer extant, and died at Valencia in 1099. His body was re- moved from the latter town to the monastery of Cardena, near Burgos, whence once more it was conveyed to the Town Hall. The bones of the hero and those of his faithful and heroic Jimena are shown to visitors on obtain- ing the verbal permiso of the secretary of the Ayuntamiento. The bones are kept in a common walnut urn, placed in a room fitted up as a chapel. The Castle of Burgos is interesting in an historical point of view. It was the early palace of the Counts of Castile. In 959, Count Fernan Gonzalez brought Garcia, King of Navarre, a prisoner here, and confined him for thirteen months. The bridal of the Cid took place within it. Alfonso VI. of Leon was taken here after he was made a prisoner by the Cid in the Church of Carrion. Here St. Ferdinand received St. Casilda, daugh- ter of the Moorish King of Toledo, who was converted to Christianity. It was the birthplace of Pedro the Cruel : Don Fadrique, son of Enrique II. and the first Spanish duke, was imprisoned here; and here again Edward I. of England espoused Eleanor of Castile. It was in those times a magnificent BURGOS CASTLE. 83 palace, as well as a strong fortress, which was considerably strengthened in the succeeding reigns. The state- rooms were destroyed by a fire which happened in 1736. In Nov. 1808, on Napoleon's victorious march from Vitoria to Madrid, at the head of the second corps d'annee, under Soult, Burgos was defended by Count Belve- der, at the head of 12,000 men. Las- salle, after a reconnoissance, retired to his quarters, pursued by half the Spanish army, which was at Gamonal. The French horsemen then turned sud- denly upon the assailants, defeated these and the rest, and entered the town pele-mele. It then became the head quarters of Napoleon. The Duke of Wellington, after the battle of Sala- manca, laid siege to Burgos ; but, being ill supported by Balesteros, had to raise the siege, to avoid falling into the hands of Soult, who was advancing at the head of overwhelming numbers. On Sept. 1, 1812, Wellington began this siege, at the head of very few troops, and with only three 18 -pounders. The castle was garrisoned by 1800 infantry, besides artillerymen, commanded by the gallant Dubreton. It was de- fended by five enclosures, which a heavy casemated work called the Na- poleon battery cannonaded on every side except to the N., where at some dis- tance another height, San Miguel, was weakly palisaded. The French pos- sessed twenty-six guns, besides the re- serve artillery of the army of Portugal. The position taken by the English extended from San Miguel on the left of the old camino real to Vitoria, up to the island of San Pedro. On the 19th, notwithstanding the strong batteries commanding the Arlanzon, this river was forded by the first division, and the first assault made by Major Somers Cocks, supported by Pack's Portuguese. Though the loss was great, the hill of San Miguel was gained. The plan of the siege now became clearer. Head quarters were fixed at Villa Toro. Col. Burgoyne conducted the operations of the engineers, and the artillery was placed under Kobe and Dickson. They had only three 18 -pounders and five 24-pound howitzers. The second as- sault met with no success ; the third was also a failure, owing to the darkness of the night and the fault of the con- ducting engineers ; the fourth seemed at first to be attended with better suc- cess, but each time the troops had ad- vanced, Dubreton * came thundering down from the upper ground, levelling all the works, carrying off all the tools, etc. ' Major Cocks was killed, with 200 killed or wounded. After the fifth as- sault, the French regained some import- ant positions, gallantly obtained by the English, who had once more to fall back on their former lines. The news came now that Soult was marching from Granada, King Joseph was mov- ing upon Madrid, and Souham concen- trating Caffarelli's troops with his own at Briviesca. The English army, with- out ammunition, ill - provisioned, de- spondent, and even growing insub- ordinate, had to raise the siege, and Wellington determined to endeavour to join Hill. This retreat was effected after thirty-three days of investment, and a loss of upwards of 2000 men. The movement was skilfully concerted, and boldly carried out on the 21st. In June 1813, the castle, still in posses- sion of the French, had not been re- paired, but rather so neglected that it was declared untenable. Before the advancing duke, King Joseph retreated. The castle was mined, but the mines so hurriedly or unskilfully exploded that they destroyed about 300 French, ruined several streets, and thousands of shells, being ignited and driven upwards, fell on several buildings, which they com- 84 BURGOS LAS HUELGAS. pletely destroyed or mutilated. It was then, and by that terrific explosion, that the beautiful painted glass windows in the cathedral were destroyed. The castle is now in ruins, and the fortifi- cations quite insignificant. Private Houses. There are still a few mansions, curious and interesting specimens of the civil architecture of the 14th to the 16th century. Visit especially the ' Casa del Cordon' (16th century), now the residence of the Cap- tain General. It belongs to the Duke of Frias, who is a descendant of the Count of Haro, who erected it, and was Constable of Castile. It dates from the end of 15th century. Over the portal is the rope or cordon of the Teu- tonic Order which links the arms of the houses of Yelasco, Mendoza, and Figuera with those of royalty. The magnificence of this royal mansion must have equalled that of the chapel of the Constable in the Cathedral erected by the same nobleman, and there are still some fine azulejos, artesonado ceilings, the patio with two series of galleries, arms, turrets, etc., besides some family portraits in the administrador of the duke's rooms ; but much was plundered and destroyed by the French. Casa de Miranda. In Calle de la Calera, E. of the barrio de la Vega. Observe the noble patio and pillars. Casa de Angulo. Close to the former, of 16th century; a fine portal. In Calle de los Avellanos, Casa del Conde de Yillariezo, of the 10th century, where the powerful con- stable Alvaro de Luna was imprisoned. The archiepiscopal palace is plain. Suburbs. Those which travellers should not fail to visit consist of the convent of Las Huelgas ; Cartuja of Miraflores ; and San Pedro de Cardena, where the Cid's tomb used to be. Las Huelgas. This convent is situ- ated on the high road to Valladolid, and was founded by Alfonso VIII. and his queen Leonora, daughter of Henry II. of England, in 1180, on the site of some pleasure-grounds (huelgas, from Jiolgar, to rest = Sans Souci). It has been often augmented and repaired in subsequent periods, and is therefore not homogeneous in either style or shape. Of the former palace or villa, nothing more, it is said, remains than the small cloister with fantastical capitals, and Byzantine semicircular arch. The church was consecrated in 1279, and was the work of King St. Ferdinand. It is of a good pure Gothic, severe, and well characterised. The interior of the church is worth careful studying, though disfigured by tinsel ornamenta- tion and furniture, chumgueresque altars, etc. The abbesses of Huelgas used formerly to be most powerful, and inferior to no one in dignity besides the queen ; they were mitred, ' Senoras de horca y cuchillo ' (i.e. with right of life and death), lorded over fifty-one villages and boroughs, named their alcaldes, curates, chap- lains, and possessed the style of ' For la gracia de Dios ' and ' nullius diocesis.' It is one of the few re- maining convents which have pre- served, though considerably diminished, extensive landed property, amounting to some 15, 000 fanegas, several villages, and many thousand head of merino sheep. The order is Cistercian, and to gain admission the nuns must, besides the ordinary exigencies of the rule, bring a dowry and belong to the nobility. The clausura (confinement) is most strict, and the nuns can only be visited by ladies. On Sundays, during high mass, they may be nevertheless seen sitting in their magnificently carved stalls, singing and praying, clad in a most becoming dress. As the building was also intended for the burial-house of the Kings of Castile, there are several tombs worthy of a rapid glance. In BURGOS CARTUJA. 85 this Escorial of the North are buried, amongst others, the Emperor Alfonso VII. , Alfonso VIII. , and his queen Leonora, Alfonso the Learned, Hen- rique I., etc. In this church the marriage took place of the Infante de la Cerda (who is buried here) with Blanche, daughter of St. Louis of France, at which the Kings of Castile, Aragon, Navarre, the Moorish King of Granada, Prince Edward of England (son of Henry III.), the Empress of Constantinople, the French Dauphin, and twenty or thirty other crowned heads and princes were present. A- mongst the nuns of rank that have lived and died here, were Berenguela, daughter of St. Ferdinand ; Maria of Aragon, aunt to Charles V., etc. In the Chapel de Santiago is preserved an image of this warrior saint, in which some springs move the arms. Here aspirants to knighthood used to * velar las armas' (keep the vigil), and when they were knighted, a sword was fas- tened to the right hand of the image, which, by moving a spring, fell gently on the recipient' s shoulder, and thus their dignity was saved ; for otherwise it was an offence to receive the accolade (dub of knighthood) from a man. In the nun's choir is preserved the banner of Alfonso VIII. , which waved at Las Navas de Tolosa. La Cartuja. This convent is one of the lions of Burgos, and well deserves a visit. The distance is half-an-hour's drive from the centre of the city ; a caleche there and back, 20r. Shown only from 8 A.M. to 12A.M., and from 3 P.M. to sunset. The convent, once a very wealthy one, has suffered greatly since the suppression of religious com- munities in Spain, and is now inhabited by four or five poor, slovenly, exclau- strado Carthusian monks, who are just tolerated and looked upon with hostile suspicion by that rival of the regular clergy, el cura. The railway is carried over an arch called Puerta de la Vieja, which was built by Enrique III., but repaired in 1831. The site originally formed some hunting-grounds called El Parque Real, which were purchased by Enrique III., who built the palace of Miraflores. At his death it was seen that, by his will, he had intended founding a monastery. Much opposi- tion was offered to the accomplishment of his vow, which was finally carried out by his son Juan II., who granted the grounds and palace to the Carthusian order in 1442. The convent then built was burnt down to the ground (1452), and the present one, designed by Juan de Colonia, whom Bishop Cartagena had brought with him for the works of the cathedral, was continued with great activity and completed by Isabella, who, at the death of Juan de Colonia, employed his sons Simon and Matienzo. The style of the church is exceedingly simple, with pointed arched windows, and a few transition pinnacles and other details. The style of both the exterior and interior belongs to the florid Gothic, with somewhat of the plateresque. The exterior, with its worked-out flying but- tresses and pinnacles, is, however, rather bald. The principal fa9ade is deco- rated with the arms of Castile and Leon. The Interior is divided into three por- tions, according to the rule observed by the Carthusian order in all its churches. One portion is allotted to the monks, the other to the legos (laity), and the third to the people, each railed in, and the two first with choirs and stalls. The Altar was designed by Gil De Siloe and Diego de la Cruz ; begun in 1486, finished in 1499. It was ordered by Queen Isabella, and gilt with the gold brought from America after the second journey of Columbus. It is quadrangular in sh ape, and crowned by a circle formed of saints, and in the centre are scenes from the 86 BURGOS CARTU JA . Passion. Before it is a crucifix, of little merit. Over tlie sagrario is a Virgin in an urn, which, being placed on a wheel, revolves, presenting seven scenes of the Scripture, sculptured upon its seven sides. The Tombs are the principal sight in the convent, and may be ranked among the finest in Europe. In the centre of the nave is the tomb of Juan II., and that of Queen Isabella of Por- tugal. The mausoleums are octagonal in shape ; sixteen lions, two at each angle, support eight escutcheons bearing the royal arms from the base ; the sides, upper angles, etc., are crowded with numerous statuettes under filigree cano- pies, open-worked leaves, and fruit, be- sides numberless birds and other animals, and the whole charmingly composed and executed with such delicacy of de- tail and abundance of subjects, that la vista scpierde amongst all that intricacy. The statues are in a recumbent attitude. Observe the wonderful workmanship of the cushions and robes, as well as the sitting figures of the four Evangelists, and the group of a lion, dog, and child at the queen's feet. Close to these tombs, in a recess in the wall, is that of their son, Don Alfonso (ob. 1470, set. 16), who, at his death, was succeeded by his sister Isabella. The Infante is kneeling ; a vine, from around which children are hanging, whilst they are plucking the grapes, winds in festoons round the Gothic arch which frames that poetical composition. There are also numberless specimens from the vegetable and animal kingdoms, fruit, branches, leaves of all sorts, etc., all admirably executed. These tombs, raised by Isabella to the memory of her sires and brother, were designed by Gil de Siloe, who began them in 1489, and finished them in 1493 ; they cost 602, 406 maravedis. The stalls in the first choir, close to the altar, are of walnut, and decorated only with leaf ornaments. The prior's stall, with its Gothic canopy, is fine ; it dates from 1488, and is the work of Martin Sanchez. The second choir, coro de los legos, has stalls more elaborately worked and berneguete-like in the style and execution (1558) by Simon Bueras. The retallo over the high altar is a grand composition, with subjects from our Saviour's life ; at the bottom, on each side, are kneeling effigies of the king and queen. There is a crowd of subjects and figures on either side of the tabernacle ; above this latter is the Assumption of the Virgin ; and above, a circle formed of clustered angels. In the centre stands a fine Crucifix, surmounted by the allegorical subject of the Pelican, vulning her breast. The sculpture is excellent throughout, and does credit to Maestro Gil de Siloe, who designed it (1496-99), and executed most of it, the rest being the work of Diego de la Cruz. The elaborate reja is by Santillana. The painted glass is not very remarkable, though expressly made in and brought from Flanders in the 15th century. The burial-ground is truly a 'champ du repos' nay, of oblivion and neglect. 41 9 Carthusian monks lie there in death as they Kved, humble and forgotten, without a name or a date, amongst the weeds, and shaded by some tall and sombre cypresses, which raise up their arrowy and motionless spires into the blue heavens. All is calm and quiet there, and silence is only interrupted by the trickling tear-like drops of water from a fountain in the centre. Weeds grow thick and quick around graves in Spain ; in that land of sun and blue sky, shadows do not linger long over the heart, and the poor dead are soon forgotten. Visit the cells and adjoining gardens and workshops of the monks. In a chapel is a fine statue of the founder of the order, St. Bruno, by Manuel Percy- ra, which was formerly in the cathedral CACERES. 87 San Pedro de Cardena is a convent of the Benedictine order, founded by Queen Sancha, mother of the Gothic Theodoric. In the time of Alfonso el Casto (9th century), the Moors, during one of their forays, razed the edifice to the ground, and killed 200 monks who inhabited it. It was a favourite convent with the Cid, and at his dying request (1099), his body was conveyed hither, and buried before the high altar, together with his faithful Jimena. Y & San Pedro de Cardena Mando que mi cuerpo lleven, etc. Romancero. The empty monument now stands in a small side-chapel ; on the stone pedestal are placed the effigies of the great hero and Jimena, side by side in death as they had lived. On the upper part is an inscription, placed by order of Al- fonso the Learned. On the walls are blazoned the escutcheons of the Cid's relatives and companions in arms. But the convent has been modernised ; this very chapel only dates from 1736, and on the whole we do not advise tourists to undergo the dreary drive across wind- blown, rocky downs for this edifice, of which little remains of former days. CAGE RES (ESTREMADURA). Capital of province of same name ; pop. 14,466. Routes to 1st, from Merida, by rail or riding : distance, 72 kil. One train per day; 1st cl., Pes. 9.15; 2d cl, 6.85 ; 3d cl., 4.55. But riding over all this country to be preferred if possible. On leaving Merida, a Roman aqueduct repaired and carry- ing water to the town : through an uninteresting tract of country, reach the miserable hamlets of Alguceu, and its stream ; skirt the Sierra de San Pedro, and Casas de Don Antonio. Close to latter, 6 miles distant, lies the town of Montanches, celebrated for its hams, jamones, the most succulent in Spain ; along with those of the Alpu- jarras, they were great favourites with Charles Y. during his ' Retiro' at Yuste. Much of their delicacy was then as- cribed to the different sorts of reptiles which it was supposed constituted the ordinary food of the Montanches pigs. Acorns are certainly not abundant in this part of the country. Cross the rivers Ayuela and Rio Salar. 2d, From Badajoz by riding or galeras Badajoz to Caceres, 14 leagues. (If riding, take a local guide, as then you cross the Puerto de Sancho Caballo, whilst by galeras that of Clovin is traversed.) Badajoz to Roca . . .6 Puebla de Ovando . . i Cdceres .... 7 In a long day's ride, leagues . 14 A league after leaving Badajoz the Ebora is crossed by a fine bridge, then the Ribera de Periquoitos is forded. The other rivers which the traveller meets are, the Ayuella, 2 leagues be- fore arriving at Caceres, and the Salar, half-a-league. The Ribera del SaltiUo has to be forded near Puebla de Ovando, a village of 371 inhabitants, also called El Zangano, which name would reflect no flattering credit on the inhabitants. 3d, By Trujillo, riding from Naval- moral. Trujillo to Venta de Masilla, leagues 3 Caceres .... 5 3 Across hills planted with oaks ; the rivers Magusca and Tameja are crossed. 88 ClCERES. Reached by galeras or riding. In both tours take a local guide, and attend to the provender. 4th, From Madrid. By the recently < opened Tagus Railroad via Toriljos, Talavera de la Reina, Navalmoral and Arroyo (change) ; distance, 347 kil. ; 2 trains per day ; 12 hrs. ; fares, 1st cl., 200r. 20c. ; 2d cl., 150r. 20c. ; Leganes, a large lunatic asylum ; Torrijos, 2000 inhab. in a damp and fever-stricken dis- trict. A Palace of Altamira contains some fine mudejar artevonado ceilings. Talavera de la Reina. Hotels: Amistad, Petra Ferrer, both fair. This, the Roman Tala-Briga, is now a decayed city deserving of a better fate, for it is charmingly situated on the Tagus, which waters its verdurous vega and beautiful gardens and orchards. There are re- mains of the Roman circumvallation ; of the Moorish fortifications, The Torres Albarrouas, built 10th cent., and of a Pagan temple, etc. An indifferent Gothic Ch. of Sta. Ma. la Mayor ; a much ruined bridge of 15th cent. , built by Card. Mendoza ; a charming Alameda, and a Dominican Convent with some fine tombs. On the hill to the left of the town, and on the Madrid road, was fought, 27th and 28th July 1809, the cele- brated battle of Talavera, between the French under Marshals Victor, Jourdan, and King Joseph, and the Anglo-Span- ish army, under the great duke's per- sonal command. The French finally abandoned the field, losing 20 cannon, and 10,000 killed and wounded. Oropesa, pop. 1880, a small and most decayed little town crowning an ilex and olive-clad hill. A dilapidated palace and castle, the property of the Duke de Frias. Navalmoral, pop. 3000. Here, if desired, the railway may be conveniently left, and Caceres reached by riding vid Trujillo. In this case Al- maraz is passed in 1J hrs. Here the Tagus is crossed. This little town gave a title to Lord Hill, who, May 18, 1812, conducted here'with consummate abi- lity one of the most brilliant actions of the Peninsular War,' which consisted in forcing the defile of La Cueva, cutting off Soult from Marmont, thus preparing the victory of Salamanca. At Jaraicejo cross the river Almoute and reach Trujillo. Pop. 6800. Tints Parador. This, the Turris Julia, be- cause said to have been founded by Julius Caesar, is built upon a granite hill, and is divided into the castle quarter, the old city, and the town proper. The chief curiosities are : the Arch of Santiago, the Ch. of Sa. Ma. La Mayor, the picturesque Plaza, Ch. of San Martin, Ch. and tombs of Sa. Ma. del Concepcion, the houses of Duke de San Carlos, and C-del Puerto. In La Concepcion note especially the tomb of Pizarro. See also his house in the Plaza. Caceres. Inns most indifferent Posada Nueva and that of Los Cabal- leros. The climate is excellent ; the air pure and soft. The winter is scarcely felt, and lasts but a few weeks ; the mortality is 1.31. The country around is the most fertile in the province. The older portion of Caceres occupies the summit of the height on which the town is placed, and is flanked by old quaint massive walls with cubes and five gates, of which latter that of La Estella is the most interesting. The newer portion is built around the former, but slopes down to the plain, which is wa- tered by the ' caudaloso ' Marco. Though abounding with wine, corn, fruit, and delicious hams and bacon, and rich succulent sausages of all kinds (which we recommend to the gastronomic tourist), Caceres, from its out-of-the way situation and want of roads, lies in an ignored nook of Estremadura, and is dull, lifeless, dirty, and sombre. The antiquary and artist will nevertheless not lack subjects worthy of attention, OACERES ALCANTARA BRIDGE. 89 pen, and pencil ; not so much from any particular edifice, as for * Prout'-bit nooks and corners, and private houses, all well preserved and strongly charac- terised, belonging to the feudal times, and bearing proud armorials. Do not fail to visit the Veletas, the Moorish Alcazar ; the houses of the Duque de Abrantes, Conde de la Torre, de los Gol- fines, de los Carbajales, etc. The plaza is decorated with a Roman Ceres and a Di- ana (the head is modern) . There are, be- sides, the Bishop's Palace ; the Gothic church of Santa Maria, rebuilt in 1556, where notice the retablo of that period and the sepulchres of the Figueroas, Pare- des, etc. ; SanMateo, in the upper or older town, close to house de los Yeletas, and the work of Pedro de Ezquerra (its tower and tombs) ; and in Santiago a fine reja (1563). The bull-ring, all of granite, and situated K W. of the town, is a magnificent building sui generis. There are antiquities constantly dug up and reburied in the ' Dehesa de los Arrogates' 3 leagues off. Cdceres was founded, 74 B.C., by Q. C. Metellus, and named by him Castra Csesaris, whence its present name is derived. Excursion to Alcantara. A 6 hrs.' ride, amid wild oaks and dehesas, by Brozas. Alcantara. Pop. 4000. On a rocky height over the Tagus, and girdled by walls 6 met. high and 2 met. wide. Al- Kantarah (the bridge in Arab.) was the Norba Ccesarea of the Romans, and belonged subsequently to the military order of Alcantara, to whom it was granted by Alfonso IX. of Castile, in 1212. Visit the Convent of San Benito, built in 1506, and enlarged and em- bellished by Philip II. Observe, over and above the collateral altar, some fine pictures by Morales, who must be studied in Estremadura, his native land. Also notice the sepulchres of the knights, the cloisters, etc. The great lion here is the Bridge, a wonderful work built for Trajan, A.D. 105, by the architect Caius Julius Lacer, who was buried near it. It was repaired by that other great em- peror, Charles V., in 1543. It consists of six arches, varying in size, and is entirely built with blocks of granite, without cement ; the widest arches in the centre have a span of 110 ft. ; the length is 670 ft. ; the height 210 ft. There is a tower in the middle some 13 met. high. The second arch on the right bank was blown up in 1809 by Col. Mayne, was repaired in 1812 by Col. Sturgeon, and destroyed a second time in 1836 ; it has never been repaired since, and the river is crossed in a ferry- boat, and this near and under one of the grandest engineering works of the Romans in Spain, which it is a na- tional duty to preserve as a monument, and a government's obligation to ma.ke available. A decent Casa de huespedes, kept by Don Cisto Pena, near the Plaza de Toros, and a tolerable posada, Nueva de la Viuda. Excursion to Plasencia, by rail ; or by road including Alcantara. Itinerary. Caceres to Malpartida Arroyo del Puerco . Brozas . Alcantara (sleep) Alcantara to Garrovillas Carnaveral Coria (sleep) . Plasencia Leagues. 3 5 2 4* 9 Riding ; take a local guide and pro- vender. Interesting only to artists and ecclesiologists. Arroyo del Puerco. Posada de la Cacerana. In the parish church are, or were till but very recently, sixteen very fine authentic and undefined pic- tures by Morales. The subjects are, Christ in the Garden, Bearing the 90 CiCERES CONVENT OF YUSTE. Cross, the Annunciation, Nativity, Christ in Limbo, St. John, Saviour Bound, Descent, Burial, Christ and Joseph of Arimathea, Adoration of Kings, Circumcision, Ascension, Pen- tecost, Saviour with the Reed, St. Jerome. Alcdntara. Vide p. 89. Coria. Posada de Juan Lopez : in- different. Pop. 2500. Is the Roman Caurium, of which the walls still sub- sist, and are interesting ; they are 30 ft. high and 19 ft. thick on an average. Visit the Paredon, the Aqueduct, Torre de San Francisco, the Gothic Cathedral of granite, with a fine plateresque en- trance and quaintly carved stalls, dat- ing 1489, and tombs of Bishop Galarza, Prescamo, Dona Catalina, Diaz, etc., most of them of the beginning of the 16th century and end of the 15th. Plasencia. Inns : Posada de las tres Puertas and Parador Nuevo. 6000 in- habitants, bishop's see as well as Coria, on the banks cf the Jerte and in the prov. of Caceres. The town is hooped in by a massive wall, built in 1197 by Alfonso VIII. of Castile, and strength- ened by sixty-eight cubo towers and with six gates, all most picturesque, and excellent specimens of mediaeval Castilian military engineering. Besides, on the N.E. side, and overlooking the rest, rose a strongly-built fortress, of which the ruins subsist. The flint- made streets are straight, and the houses of the earlier periods are worth a visit, especially that of Marques de Miravel. Observe the grand staircase, the pillars and statues ; that of the Marques de Santa Cruz de Paniagua (literally, bread and water), with a fine balcony. The principal sight is the Cathedral. It was built in 1498, and belongs to the florid Gothic ; but has been modernised and altered in several portions, while other parts have re- mained unfinished. Observe the fine S. entrance, the plateresque door, * Puerta del Enlosado ; ' the interior is some- what disfigured by the over-sized pil- lars which support the roof of the central aisle ; notice more especially the colossal and fine reja del coro, 6 ft. high (1664), by Celma ; the finely-carved Tedesque stalls by Aleman ; the retablo of the high altar, a masterpiece of Gregorio Hernandez (1626), four large pictures by Ricci ; the plateresque se- pulchres of Bishop Ponce de Leon and others. Besides the cathedral may be visited the Church of San Nicolas, with a fine tomb of Bishop Pedro de Carvajal ; San Ildefonso for the tomb of Cristobal de Villalba ; the Church of San Vicente for another of Martin Nieto (1597), etc. Prout-bits that will tempt the sketcher are not wanting about the cathedral, bishop's palace, etc. Antiquaries will study and trace from what remains the beautiful Roman Via Lata, going from Merida to Salamanca, which is more strongly marked on nearing Merida and the Charca, where still subsist the military columns, 7 ft. high, generally well preserved. Excursion to Convent of Yuste. Travellers desirous of visiting this out-of-the-way convent, the site of the refuge and death of Charles V., will do well to obtain beforehand information respecting the administrador of El Monasterio de San Geronimo de Yuste, at Cuacos, as changes are now taking place in the lesseeship of the convent, which has been recently pur- chased by the Due de Montpensier, and is undergoing repairs. Yuste lies some 8 leagues from Plasencia, across the Xerte, the Calzones hill, the charming valley of Vera, to pictur- esque Pasaron. Soon after the latter has been left, the Hieronymite Convent appears a little above the Magdalena farm, and near the small stream of the Yuste. Visit the Nogal Grande, a large walnut-tree, under which Charles used to sit ; his bedroom, where once hung Titian's Gloria, now at the Madrid Gallery, No. 462. In the chapel observe the finely-carved silleria by Mateo Aleman ; visit likewise the Plaza del Palacio, the sun-dial erected by Juanelo Turriana, the pleasure-grounds sadly ne- A N I C MADW1) TO CORDOVA, SEYILLAX- CADIZ AXI) MALAGA & GRANADA. A TLA* TIC CAD.Z ,, (V(f ,,,,, CADIZ. 91 glected and its Cenador de Belem. The convent was sacked and almost destroyed by Soult's soldiers; and the brutal peasants of Cuacos, the constant enemies of the convent even during Charles's life, have done the rest. In the vicinity of Yuste game abounds, such as deer, roebuck, wild boars, cabras montesas (chamois), and wolves. There is also some ex- cellent fishing about the Xerte, Yuste, etc. From or to Salamanca, 42 leagues by Ciudad Rodrigo. (See Salamanca.) Books of Reference. ' Historia de Caceres con. sus Privilegios, ' by Ulloa y Golfin, MS. in Acad. Hist. (D. 49), the best work written on this city. Alcantara. ' Descripcion de la sun- tuosay celebre Puentede Alcantara ; ' 4to, MS., Bibl. Nacionale (vol. 159, fol. 96). Yuste. 1. 'Fundacion del Monas- terio de Yuste, ' by Hernando del Cor- ral, MS. of the 16th century, Bibl. of Escorial (L. j. 13, fol. 25), and Signon- za's * Hist, of the Order of St. Jerome/ 2 vols., i., p. 29. 2. And for details on the life of Charles V. at Yuste, see ' History of the Order of St. Jerome,' by Siguenza, vol. i., p. 36; 'Cloister Life of the Em- peror Charles V.,' by Stirling, 1852, etc. ; Senor Tomas Gonzalez's important work, * Retire,' etc., extracted from do cuments at Simancas, and M. Mignet's 'Charles Quint.' etc., the last edition (1862), in which we have remarked very interesting new documents, not comprised in the former editions ; San- doval's ' Hist. ' etc. CADIZ. Capital of province of the same name ; bishop's see ; trading and military sea- port. Pop. about 65,000. Routes and Conveyances. 1st, From Madrid, by rail throughout, cros- sing Cordova, Seville, and Jerez ; dis- tance, 726 kil ; time, 24 hours. Fares, 1st cl., Pes. 84.15; 2d cl., 64.10. From Madrid to Alcazar, the Alicante Railway is followed. At Alcazar change carriages. A buffet. Madrid to Cor- dova, 15^ hours ; Cordova to Seville, 3f hours ; Seville to Cadiz, 4f hours. Buffet at Cordova. For description of route see Alicante, Cordova, etc. 2d, From Seville. A. By rail, 5 hours ; distance, 153 kil. For details see Seville and Jerez. B. By the river ; offices, Salmon, Calle Nueva, 7. Time, 6J to 7 hours ; see Seville (seldom adopted). 3d, From Cordova, 8 hours ; two trains ; distance, 285 kil. Fares, 1st cl., Pes. 30.65 ; 2d cl., 22.70; 3d cl., 13.60. For details see Cordova. 4th, From Malaga. A. By sea. See Malaga ; also advertisements in papers and bills. A pleasant route, calling either at Gibraltar or Algeciras. The best lines are the ' Hall ' (weekly) ; the Compania Trasatlantica (Lopez) twice a month; the Segovia -Cuadra (bi- weekly) ; and the Compagnie Havraise Peninsular (every 10 days). The time, direct, is about 15 hours. B. By land, via Boladilla, La Roda, Osuna, Utrera, etc. ; or drive from Osuna to Moron, through an interesting country, and from thence take train to Seville. Also by rail through Montilla (finely situ- ated ; great sherry district ; birthplace of El Gran Capitan, Gonsalvo de C6r- doba), and from thence via Ecija and Marchena to Seville. 5th, From Lisbon. By John Hall and Company's boats, weekly, or by the fine steamers of the Ligne Penin- sulaire. Also by numerous coasting steamers. 6th, From Havre, by the boats of the 92 CADIZ ROUTES. Compagnie Havraise Peninsulaire twice a month. 7th, From Alicante, Cartagena, Barce- lona, Marseilles, etc. ; from the chief British ports London, Liverpool, Bris- tol, Glasgow, Dublin, etc. ; from Genoa and Leghorn ; from the ports of Ger- many and Denmark with all these there is constant steam communication. Address in Cadiz to Alcon and Co., Calle de la Adnana 16 ; Joaquin del Cuvillo, Calle de Antonio Lopez 24 ; Messrs. Haynes, San Francisco 37 ; D. Mac- pherson, San Gines 4, or Jose Esteban Gomez, Calle Marguia 35. Cadiz, Barcelona, and Bilbao are the most important ports in Spain, and the points of departure and centres of com- munication for vessels going to and fro between all parts of the world. The principal lines leaving or touching here are the following : The Pacific Steam Navigation Company, twice a month for Rio Janeiro, Monte Video, and Buenos Ayres ; agents in Cadiz, Alcon and Co. ; The National Steamship Company for New York and Boston agent, D. Macpherson ; The Peninsular and Oriental Company for various des- tinations an office at Cadiz for tickets, etc., but passengers must proceed to Gibraltar to embark ; The Compaiiia Trasatlantica (Lopez line) for Puerto Rico, Habana, Colon, and the Pacific ports; as also for Manila, Singapore and the East ; office of the Company, Isabel la Catolica 3 ; The Italian Transatlantic line of Piaggio and Co. agents in Cadiz, Sres. Odero y Ferro, Ahumada 8. Tourists at Cadiz, however, are most interested in the routes to or from | Gibraltar, by sea and land. A. By sea. The first-class occasional steamers are not to be depended upon. Messrs. Haynes' boats run regularly twice a week, in about 10 hours, but should be avoided ; the steamers of the Segovia Cuadra line, trading between Seville and Malaga, run twice a week ; and the Hall line, from London, passes weekly the former anchoring at Alge- ciras, not Gibraltar. These two last- named lines are a little dearer, but the boats are larger and more comfortable in every way, and, moreover, only take 8 hours to the passage. As a start is made about 6 A.M., it is a great con- venience to go on board overnight. The accommodation is good, in the case of the larger steamers, and one avoids thereby the early rising at the hotel, and the awkward chartering of a small boat from the Muelle, with the accom- panying struggle over the luggage. The trip is a very pleasant one when the weather is fine, the Spanish coast being rarely lost sight of. The first thing to attract attention is the peculiar situa- tion of Cadiz, of which an excellent idea may be obtained while slowly, as if reluctantly, the city is being left be- hind. Then comes the Isla of San Fer- nando, and a long stretch of low-lying, sandy coast, varied, however, by fine views of the uprising inland country about Chiclana, etc. By the timr Cape Trafalgar is sighted (see B., p. 94), the Straits may be said to have been reached, and henceforward there is no lack of interest. Tangier is seen lying far away to the right ; while on the left appears Tarifa, with its white- washed houses, its imposing but tooth- less fortifications, and its lighthouse apparently set in the midst of the sea. The African coast-line is now extremely picturesque, stretching from Cape Spar- tel to the Apes' Hill over Ceuta, and with the gray mass of the Gibraltar rock rising up full in view. For further description of the route, see p. 150. CADIZ ROUTES. 93 B. By land. Two routes; one crosses Algeciras and Tarifa, the other leaves these on the left, and cuts across Los Barrios, Casa Vieja, Medina Sidonia. The first continues along the sea-coast, and is practicable only during some seasons. It traverses Tarifa and Trafalgar, and is to be preferred when ladies are in the case. The second is shorter, wilder, and crosses a woody portion of country. First Itinerary, Miles. Gibraltar to Algeciras . . g Tarifa 12 Venta de Taibilla 16 Venta de Vejer ... 14 Chiclana 16 Cadiz 13 80 The ride to Tarifa is 9 to 10 hrs. Leave San Roque to the right, follow the sands and bay. Algeciras. Pop. 18,216 inhab., prov. of Cadiz. This Portus Albus of the Romans, and the Erin, the Green Island (Jeziratu-1-Khadra), of the Moor, a name which has been preserved to the Isla Verde, also called de las Palomas, was strongly fortified by the Moors, and suffered sereral sieges, until it was taken in 1344 by Al- fonso XI. The capture was considered of great importance, and the see of Cadiz was removed here by a bull of Clement VI., the bishops being henceforth, and still, ' of Cadiz and Algeciras/ and the kings of Spain were styled ' Reyes del Algecira.' It was retaken 1379 by Mahomet II. of Granada, and destroyed, not to be rebuilt before 1760, under Charles III., as a watch- tower to spy the doings vipe'rfida A Ibion. The town is straggling, the streets dirty and silent ; the houses with low balconies and rejas closely latticed, jalousies indeed, worthy of the former Moor and irritable hidalgos. The port might be made excellent ; but alas ! altnough facing Gibraltar, where all is trade, activity, order, and improvement, there are here neither moles, quays, nor works of defence, for the pasteboard fort and few guns which we see are only a use- less show. There is a Plaza, with a paltry statue of Castafios, field-marshal and Duke of Baylen, a small theatre, some barracks, and an indifferent church. Algeciras might become, from its situation, one of the most flourishing ports in Spain ; there is some trade with Africa and the ports on the coast, the exports and im- ports averaging some .60,000 annually. The oranges of Algeciras are exquisite, and next to them the greatest attraction here is the fair sex, who are celebrated for their beauty. A new railway line from Bobadilla, vid Ronda, is in course of construction. There are two fair inns here, the ' Victoria ' and the 'Marina.' The road between this and Tarifa is wild and beautiful, and from the hills the view sweeps over the bay, to the proud and majestic Penon de Gibraltar, the cork-tree forest (alcornoques), the boiling Guadalmacil rushing through and lighting it up with flashes of sunlit water on the left, and before us, and to the right, the ocean, unfurl- ing its wide tranquil sheet of water between Africa and Europe, like an illuminated, gilt- edged page, bearing some of the greatest deeds of man : for these shores have witnessed the battles of Munda and Trafalgar, also the land- ing of the Berber, the merchants of Tyre and Sidon, the departure of Columbus, foreshadow- ing the discovery of a new world. (Algeciras to Gibraltar, see p. 152.) Tarifa. Pop. 11,863 inhab., W. of the Bay of Gibraltar, is the most Moorish-looking town in all Spain. The women are celebrated for their grace and beauty. They wear the man- tilla, as the Egyptians the tob and Khabarah, and, at Lima, the tapadas, that is leaving only one eye discovered, of which each flash is a punalada from which few are said to recover. It is said to have been built by the Phoenicians, and then called Cartama and Tartesia ; it be- came a Greek colony, and was raised to a Colo- nia Libertina by the Romans, being colonised by 4000 sons of Roman soldiers and Spanish women, not their wives, and called Julia Tra- ducta. It obtained its present name from Tarif-Ben-Malik, the first Berber sheikh who landed in Spain. After a long siege it was cap- tured, 1292, by Sancho IV. Alfonso Perez de Guzman, an ancestor of the Empress Eugenie, was entrusted with its defence. It was besieged by the Moors, aided by the treacherous Infante Don Juan, who, to cause Don Alfonso to sur- render, brought the tatter's son to the foot of the walls, and threatened to kill him if his father did not give up the city ; seeing which Don Alfonso, according to the old ballad ' Luego tomando el cuchillo, Por cima el muro lo ha echado, Junto cayd del real De que Tarifa es cercado, Dijo : '* Matadlo con esta, Sulo habeis determinado, Que mas quiero honra sin hijo, Que hijo con mi honor manchado.' The son was put to death, but the Moors retired, and Tarifa was saved. But the story, as ob- tianed from the * Ilustraciones de la Casa de Niebla' of Barrantes Maldonado(Bibliot. Acad. Hist, of Madrid), and other authentic sources, reconciles us with the father's heroism. The celebrated battle of El Salcdo, between 94 CADIZ ROUTES. the kings of Castile and Portugal against the Moors, took place under its walls. Its old walls and gates, and twenty-six towers, its narrow winding streets, low houses, balconies full of flower-vases, are all Oriental, novel, and picturesque. The Guzman Castle will tempt the sketcher. The panorama from the Tower of Pena del Ciervo is among the grandest in Spain. Africa lies opposite, Tangier a little to the right, Tarifa comes out into the open sea on the left, at a distance, and the headland yonder to the right is Cape Trafalgar. After crossing Venta de Tai villa, a mile inland is the Laguna de Janda. Here the Berbers first met the disorganised armies of Roderick, the last of the Goths, July 19, 711 ; the action not being decided till the 26th, on the Guadalete, near Jerez. After crossing Vejer, the Moorish Bekker, which re- tains all its African character and comforts, the scenery becomes monotonous and dreary. We come in sight of the Cabo de Trafalgar ( Taraf- al-ghar, the promontory of the cave), and Pro- montorium Junonis of the Romans. In these waters took place, Oct. 21, 1805, the celebrated battle of Trafalgar. Nelson, at the head of twenty-seven small ships of the line and four frigates, encountered the French fleet under Villeneuve and the Spanish under Gravina, both of thirty-three sail of the line, and seven frigates. The secret of the victory lay in Nelson's novel manoeuvring, an inspiration of genius. He divided his fleet into two compact columns, so as to bear at once on the same point of resistance. He thus succeeded in breaking the line of battle of Villeneuve, who, as well as Gravina, had scat- tered his ships, isolating them too much from each other. The fighting on all sides was most heroic. Nelson was mortally wounded, and died 2f hours after receiving his wound, but lived long enough to see his triumph. On his deathbed, Gravina (who died shortly after from his wounds) told Dr. Fellowes that he was going to join Nelson, the ' greatest man the world has ever produced.' Cliiclana, and on to Cadiz. See No. 2 Itiner- ary. Sleep at Vejer ; a decent inn near the bridge over the Barbate. The journey can be performed in two days. Itinerary Second. Gibraltar to Los Barrios Venta de Ojen . Venta Lobalbarro Taivilla .... Retin .... Vejer .... Cto'claua. .... Leagues. 3 San Fernando Cadiz . Leagues 3 It has been performed in one long day, trot- ting part of the journey, but can be easily ridden in two, sleeping at Casavieja. Leave Gibral- tar at 7.30; if much luggage, send pack-horse earlier to Spanish custom-house with keys, to avoid delay. Follow the beach ; avoid San Roque, leave Algeciras to the left, and make for Rio Guadarranque, along a tramway con- structed to carry timber to the arsenal of Car- racas from the Sierra de Almorayma. By 12 at noon get to Venta and stream de la Polvor- eda, which is good 4^ leagues from Gibraltar. Lunch in the wood or at the tidy little Venta, and get in between five and six to the Gil Bias sort of inn at Casavieja, on the Barbate. Around this hamlet there is excellent shooting, and offi- cers of the garrison at Gibraltar often visit it. Leave next morning at eight ; Vejer is seen in the distance to the left, which is not worth visit- ing, and about 11.30 to 12 A.M. get to foot of the hill on which Medina Sidonia rises ; J hr. to ascend. This old town, the Asido of the Romans, and Medinatru Schidunah, the city of Sidon, or Phoenician Asidon, iwas a stronghold during the wars between the Moors and Chris- tians, and the court of the puissant dukes of the same name (now better known as Marqueses de Villafranca), one of whom commanded the In- vincible Armada. The ruins of its Castle de la Mota are associated with early amorous Span- ish ballads. Here was confined the favourite of Alfonso XL, and here also Pedro el Cruel shut up the fair and ill-fated Blanche de Bour- bon. But, except for its picturesque, airy situation, we do not advise travellers to visit it. Its churches are clumsy, its streets narrow, steep, and dirty. Ladies may be, perhaps, glad to know that they may leave their horses here, if they choose, and take a calesa on springs, and a small dil. leaves also for La Isla (office, Calle San Juan), daily in summer, and in winter only on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays. The road is excellent to Chiclana. From Medina to La Isla, 4 hrs. Chiclana. 9004 inhab. ; an old Phoenician town, conquered from the Moors by St. Ferdi- nand, in 1251, and rebuilt by Alfonso Perez de Guzman, 1303. There are some sulphureous baths at Fuente Amarga and Pozo de Braque, between June and October. It is a favourite resort with the Cadiz lower classes, and a great bull-fighting centre, being the patria of the celebrated Chiclalnero, Monies' rival. There CADIZ THE CITY. 95 is a good and very decent large Fonda in the square, and numerous vehicles, caleches, and omnibuses to the station at La Isla (San Fer- nando), | hr. N.B.& daily dil. for Gibraltar leaves San Fernando Stat. at 6.30 A.M., passing by Chiclana, Vejer, Tarifa and Algeciras. The Administraciones in Cadiz and San Fernando also let out carriages and horses for the journey. CITY ARMS OF CADIZ. Cadiz is one of the most charmingly situated cities in the world. It lies at one extremity of a long peninsula, and is joined to the continent on the S. by a very narrow strip of land. It rises, as the poet says, over the dark blue sea, as if by a fairy's wand, with its shining white walls, its long rows of elegant houses, crowned with terraces, with glass and gilt balconied miradores. In the centre rise the high towers of its cathedral. It may be compared to a white pearl set in a crown of sapphires and emeralds, or, as the Gaditanos call it, ' tazita de plata, ' a silver cup, just as Babylon was likened to a cup of gold (Jer. li. 7). Walk round its granite ramparts, the Muralla del Mar, a series of spacious terraces, which form a de- lightful evening paseo ; sail across its busy bay, the outlines of which have the greatest beauty ; traverse its streets, Dutch clean, and formed by high, brightly -coloured, and gay -looking houses, with azoteas or terraces, and a turret oftentimes or belvedere at an angle. There is movement and life on the quays, port, and in the town. Cadiz, once the emporium of the world, must, from its very situation, recover some day part at least of its former prosperity. By the ocean it communi- cates with Portugal, the Gallician ports, France, England, Holland, and is one of the European ports nearest to, and best placed for, the trade with America. By the straits it is in the neighbourhood of the principal ports of Morocco, Algiers, Italy, the east and south of France. A lengthened residence in Cadiz may, in the end, appear monotonous to the invalid and traveller, as there is but little society, and, consequently, no great variety of faces, topics of conversation, or those petty events which are, after all, 'la grande affaire' of the man of pleasure. Some intimate tertulias at the hos- pitable merchants' houses, the play at the tolerable theatre, and a chit-chat or almost solitary lecture at the com- fortable casino ; a ball, perhaps two subscription dances at the casino, ex- cursions to Puerte Sta. Maria, Jerez, Rota, etc. this is all that must be expected. For there is little art ; the architecture of houses, churches, and public edifices is mostly modern, paint- ings are rare, and, as the witty French- man said, 'ici les lettres de change sont les belles lettres,' and the only man of letters one cares to see is the postman, el cartero. But Cadiz, in a more positive sense, affords many com- forts, which continued intercourse with foreigners, especially English, has in- troduced, and that are unknown in the more inland and larger Spanish cities. 96 CADIZ. HISTORICAL NOTICE. Cadiz was the 'ultima terras,' the Biblical Tarshish, the fortunate Erythrea and Island of Juno, the happy Iberian region of Homer, Anacreon, etc. It is conjec- tured that shortly after the destruction of Troy, some Phoenician traders sailed in search of new debouches along the coast of the Mediterranean, and came as far as Cadiz. Here, they thought, were the limits of the world, and here, probably, almost ended the sea, Africa being separated from the European con- tinent by a very narrow channel ; they therefore erected, more suo, two high pyramids, on the promontories of Aby- la (Ceuta) and Calpe (Gibraltar), ex- tending in subsequent times their jour- ney as far as Gaddir. Gaddir now became an important trading port. A magnificent temple was erected to the Lybian Hercules. Gaddir, when the Carthaginians became powerful, be- trayed its rulers, siding with the former. It fell likewise an easy prey to the Romans. The first colonia was established 171 B.C. Caesar considered its situation most important, fortified it, and made it the head of Tingitane, or Transpetane Spain ; its inhabitants enjoyed all the privileges of free Roman citizens, and it was called Augusta Urbs, and Julia Gaditana. Cadiz and Seville were then important naval arsenals. Caesar says : ' Naves longas decem Gaditanis ut facerent imperavit ; com- plures prseterea Hispali faciendas cu- ravit.' Under the Romans Cadiz be- came the emporium of the world ; its salt-fish monopoly, most of the tin of England and amber of the Baltic, its marble palaces, amphitheatres, and aque- ducts (that of Terapul especially) ; its Yia Lata, which went to Rome by Seville, Merida, Ciudad Rodrigo, Salamanca, Leon, south of France and Italy; its merchant princes, its fleets of war and of commerce, have all been sung by the poets of Rome, and praised by its writers. It was the Venice of mediaeval Europe, the Paris of our days, was in- habited by 500 Roman equites, which Rome alone and Padua could boast of possessing more the city, say Martial and Juvenal, of Yenus than of Diana, the gastronomic purveyor of the Lu- culli and other Brill at Savarins of Rome, renowned for its ballet-girls, the improbce Gaditance, whose move- ments turned every head. In the 5th century it fell into the hands of the Goths, and in the 8th into those of the Arabs, who called it Djezi- rah- Kadis, and retained it in their power for upwards of 500 years. It was retaken by Don Alfonso the Learned, September 14, 1262, rebuilt by him, and peopled with families brought from the moun- tains of Santander, Laredo, etc., a sad mixture with the Attic ' Sal de Anda- lucia. ' Its prosperity revived with the discovery of America, being made with Seville the entrep6t of its gold and merchandise. In 1509, Queen Dona Juana, by suppressing the monopoly which Seville enjoyed of sending fleets to the Indies, added greatly to its wealth and importance, and Barbarossa, at the head of a fleet of piratical galleys, at- tacked the city, gorged, as he knew, with gold. It was saved by Doria's activity ; but the pirates of Algiers and Morocco never lost sight of the treasure, and attacked it oftentimes after, espe- cially in 1553 and 1574, when it was almost taken, and saved only by chance that Providence of fools and the imprudent. In 1587 Cadiz was attacked by Drake, who destroyed its ships and dockyards, and was cruelly sacked in 1596 by Lord Essex, the booty amounting to thirteen ships of war, and forty enormous galleons loaded with American gold, etc. Two subse- quent English attacks, in 1625 and 1702, failed before a well-armed gar- CADIZ CLIMATE. 97 rison, and through, ill-planned and worse executed manoeuvres. During the Peninsular war, Cadiz was made the centre of the Spanish resistance, and seat of its celebrated Cortes. Its wealth and commercial importance were very great, even as recently as the mid- dle and end of the last century. Every banking and mercantile house in the globe had its agents here. Adam Smith, in 1770, wrote that the merchants of London had not yet the means to com- pete with the wealth of those of Cadiz. In 1792, the gold and silver imported from America to this port amounted to 125 millions ; the general importations being that year (from America alone) 175 millions. Its arsenal employed upwards of 5000 men, and the * Gales' or 'Callice' of the English enjoyed a world-wide reputation. The war of 1793 was the first blow dealt to its prosperity ; the independence of the Spanish colonies, the second ; French invasion, intrigues, and civil war have done the rest. But its importance not depending on the whim of a monarch or the caprice of an hour, but resting on the more solid advantages and favours of situation and climate, will, we have no doubt, come back, when rail- ways, religious tolerance, and home, not foreign colonisation have borne their fruit. Climate. Cadiz lies open to every wind, which consequently exposes it to sudden and frequent changes in the temperature. The most prevalent winds come from the sea. According to D. Francis, the land winds, ranging be- tween ST. to S.E., prevailed daring 109 days, and the sea winds (S. S.'W. by W. ) during 240 days, based on 5 years' observations. The maximum preva- lence of the sea winds is during the spring : the land winds reach it in win- ter. Their influence on the thermo- meter is indifferent ; they give tone to phlegmatic constitutions, and last some- times five or six days. The Levanter, soft and invigorating at Malaga and Valencia, is here hurtful to weak con- stitutions, and precursory of storms and rain. The sirocco (S.E.) is as bad, and the thermometer rises under its in- fluence six to seven degrees. The nervous system is excited, irritated, and the sick suffer greatly during its prevalence. But as to temperature, Cadiz is supe- rior to any medical station both in Italy and Spain. ' The mean temperature of winter, ' says Dr. Francis, * is four de- grees warmer than Rome or Naples, and six than that of Pisa. The same may be said of spring, the temperature of which being 60*28 Fahr., exceeds that of Rome and Pisa by three degrees and two ; the mean diurnal range is ten, being identical with Madeira.' Sum- mer is very tolerable, owing to the constant sea-breezes, and the tem- perature is as soft and warm in the end of February as it is in the end of March in the most favoured of other Spanish medical stations. Autumn is less subject than other seasons to sud- den changes, and as to winter, Decem- ber and January, the coldest winds never bring down the thermometer under 41 Fahr. Cadiz is more rainy than any part of the Mediterranean coast of Spain, but this statement need not deter invalids from choosing it as a residence, for the average number of rainy days is 99, the quantity of rain 22 in., and at Madeira the quantity of rain exceeds considerably that at Cadiz, though it is not so fre- quent. It seldom lasts here but a few hours, and, as Lee and others say, is made up of showers, with intervals of sunshine. A curious fact arises from a comparative study of rain in England, Italy, and Spain viz. that while the rainy days in England are more frequent^ 98 CADIZ. the quantity that falls is greater in Italy and Spain. In a word, Cadiz is one of the most favoured medical stations in Spain, and that which unites most advantages to general invalids. Its defects are, variability and the sirocco, but these do not affect constitutions seriously, except in cases of irritable nervousness. The water is not good, which is for some a great drawback. "Where great weak- ness and emaciation prevail, and in the advanced stages of phthisis, the mor- tality rate was 1-28. In 1860, of 2493 deaths, 20 were aged between 91 and 100. In 1862, 55 died aged between 91 and upwards of 100. The death rate is now 1-30. Hotels. Hotel de Cadiz, in the open Plaza de la Constitucion ; Hotel de Paris, in the narrow Calle de San Francisco. Both good, but dear. French and English papers taken in. Fonda de las Cuatro Naciones, good cuisine. Fonda de America, quiet and well ordered. Cafe's. Apolo, in the Plaza de la Constitucion : Suizo, Calle de San Jose, Del Correo, Rosario 41 : Cerveceria Ing- lesa, 'El Tinte,' Armagura 1. BATHS. Melendez, Calle de la Cere- ria 21. Sea- water baths may be had at the establishments on the Alameda de Apodaca and at the Muelle, and warm baths near the Plaza de Mina. Tariff for hired Carriages. Carriages of the first-class (large caleches) : First hour .... 2or. Second and every other . isr. No course. Carriages of the second class : First hour . . . .isr. Second and every other . ior. Street cabs, one horse, 8 reals per hour and course. Hired horses may be had at El Picadero, Plaza del Balon. TELEGRAPH OFFICE. Open day and night at the Admin. Principal, Calle Antonio Lopez, number 2. POST OFFICE. Admin. Principal, Calle de Bilbao, number 9. The hours depend a good deal on those of the trains, and so are apt to vary. For poste restante business, from 11 to 12 A. M. and 2 to 3 P. M. For apartado an hour and a half after the arrival of the mails. For registered letters 11 to 3, and 8 to 9 in the evening. There are also boxes in all the Estancos, railway company's offices and stations. The general mail leaves at 5.30 A.M., and arrives at 7.35 P.M. For ship -mails see special announcements. For Directory, Consuls' Addresses, etc., seep. 101. TARIFF FOR BOATS. To and from steamers, 4r. a person, 3r. a portman- teau. Pay the porters, called here de- mandaderos, for a portmanteau carried from mole to custom-house, 4r. ; from custom-house to any part of town, 2r. each parcel. STEAMERS to Moguer, 8 hrs. ; ditto to Huelva, 9 hrs. Neither are of great interest. Palos, a port near Moguer, is celebrated for the convent of la Rabida, which received Columbus in 1484, and whose prior, Perez de Marchena, en- couraged him to follow his plans and ideas. Columbus having discovered America, returned to this port March 15, 1493. The convent has been very much improved lately by the Due de Montpensier. THE PORT, BAY, AND TRADE. The entrance to this magnificent bay lies between the city and the small town and cape of Rota. The bay is most spaci- ous, and affords excellent anchorage in the inner portion, the outer one being exposed to the S.W. The port is placed on the E. side of the town, where three moles project that of 'Sevilla' in front of the custom-house ; the Muelle del CADIZ CATHEDRALS. 99 Puerto Piojo, which leads into the city through the Puerta de San Carlos, and the ' Principal, ' close to the Puerta de Tierra, another of the four principal entrances to Cadiz (the two others are Puerta de Sevilla and Puerta de la Caleta, which leads to the castle and lighthouse (S.W. of San Sebastian). This Principal is of considerable extent, and has been recently prolonged by some 550 ft. The water is not sufficiently deep to allow large vessels to approach nearer than f of a mile, where five and seven fathoms are reached. There are some dangerous rocks opposite the town ; the ' Cochinos ' and ' Puercas ' lie f ths of a mile ; the ' Diamante ' lies 1| m. off the city, and is not so dangerous. At spring- tide the water rises 10 or 11 ft., but often does not exceed 6 ft. The inner bay is divided naturally from the outer one by the promontory, having at its extremity the castle of Matagorda, which approaches within f of a mile of the Puntales castle on the Isla de Leon. In the inner portion is the arsenal of Carracas, and the small ' Poblacion de San Carlos,' a naval dep6t, established 1776, on the plans of Marq. de Urena. Here is a fine naval college, and the Panteon de Marinos Ilustres, the Alpha and Omega, the cradle and the tomb. In its chapel are preserved an image of the Virgen del Rosario, which Don Juan of Austria carried on his galley at Lepanto, and a chalice with his crest and arms. Here is also the canal of Trocadero, celebrated for the victory of Duke of Angouleme in 1823. The trade is gradually reviving ; railroads com- municating with central Spain, new lines of steamers plying between the principal Spanish and foreign ports, manufactories arising here and there, banks and credit companies being daily established, will tend to increase it. The number of ships of all nationalities entered at the port is about 2300, of the aggregate tonnage of 1,235,381 ; 327 of these being British vessels. The chief exports are cork, about 30,000 kilos; figs, about 1,000,000 kilos; lead, in bars, about 320,000 kilos ; olives and olive oil, to a very large amount ; salt, about 97,000 lasts ; and wine, about 40,000,000 litres : also oranges, raisins and other fruits. The chief imports are coal, 70,000,000 kilos; iron, about 6,000,000 kilos; wheat, 11,000,000 kilos ; also spirits (chiefly for adulterative purposes), tobacco, sugar, machinery, etc., to a very large amount. See General In- formation, Wines, etc. Sights. Cathedral (the old and new) ; Convent de los Capuchinos (Mu- rillos) ; excursions to Puerto Sta. Maria, Rota, etc. CATHEDEAL. The old cathedral, La Vieja, now abandoned for the new one, was built in the 13th century, in Alfonso II. 's reign, and by him erected to a cathedral, the See of Sidonia having been removed hither by a bull of Pope Urban IV. New chapels were added in the 15th and 16th centuries. It was almost all destroyed by fire during the sack of the city by Lord Essex. It was immediately repaired, or rather rebuilt, and thirteen chapels erected. The edi- fice is low and mean, with a fa9ade of bastardised Revival, decorated with statues, some of which have been re- moved to the new cathedral. It is most indifferent. OTatfje&ral ETueba, on DE LA SANTA CRUZ, was begun 1720, on the plans of Messrs. Acero and Cayon, pupils of the so-called Salamanca school, founded by Churriguera and Tome. The works were interrupted from want of funds till 1832, when they were resumed at the expense of the privy purse of the late most virtuous and zealous bishop, Don Do* mingo de Siloe, the edifice costing some 100 CADIZ. 300,000. The style is classical, the exterior plain, not wanting in effect ; the interior over-ornamented, very chur- rigueresque in its details, and decorated with precious marbles from Genoa, and jaspers from Arcos and Manilva. It is of the Corinthian order, and measures 305 feet long, 216 feet wide, and 189 feet to the cupola. The turrets outside are 207 feet high. Some portions are still unfinished. The tasteless high altar, of white marble, cost upwards of 7000, one half being the gift of the ex-Queen Isabella. The paintings are few, and all indifferent ; a good copy of one of Mu- rillo's Concepciones, by Clemente de Torres, and a San Lucas, ascribed to Ribera. The Custodia is valued at 10,000. The silleria del coro, once in the Carthusian convent of Sta. Maria de las Cuevas of Seville, and then in the Seville Picture Gallery, has been removed here in 1859. It is one of the finest in Spain, and the masterpiece of Pedro Duque Cornejo, a pupil of Rol- dan's. The chapels, relics, and jewels are all indifferent. Los CAPUCHINOS, formerly a convent, was built 1641. The church is unin- teresting, but contains paintings which are gems. Over the high altar is the celebrated Marriage of St. Catharine, Murillo's last work, executed 1682, and about to be finished when he fell from the scaffolding, dying shortly after. Meneses Osorio, at his request, finished it. The San Juan Bautista, St. Michael, and other minor subjects, are by Meneses Osorio, after designs by Murillo. Ob- serve over a lateral altar a grand Mu- rillo, St. Francis receiving the Stigmata. The head, hands, colouring all is per- fect. In the Capilla del Sagrario there is another, but inferior Murillo, and a small Concepcion. SAN FELIPE NERI. A Concepcion over high altar, by Murillo, and a Padre Eterno, by Clemente de Torres. In Los Descazlos some good carvings by Ver- gara and Roldan. PICTURE GALLERY (EL MUSEO) in Plaza de Mina. Amid great rubbish observe a good San Bruno, by Zurbaran ; an admirable copy of Murillo's Virgen de la Faja, now the property of the Due de Montpensier, by Tovar ; a San Agus- tin, by Giordano ; and a Last Judgment, much thought of here ; Eight Monks, by Zurbaran, from the Cartuja of Jerez ; The Four Evangelists, by San Lorenzo ; The Baptist by Zurbaran. The other buildings are all indifferent. El Carmen is churrigueresque. The huge Aduana is out of proportions with the present trade, and out of place in a land of smugglers. The Casa de Misericordia is a large edifice by Cayon ; as a poor- house it is admirably organised. Promenades, Theatres, etc. The prin- cipal street is the broad and fine Callc Ancha, lined with well-supplied shops. The Calla de la Aduana begins at Plaza Isabel II., and runs under the Muralla del Mar, parallel to the fine custom-house edifice. The Plaza de la Constitution and de Mina are the principal squares. The Muralla del Mar is a charming summer promenade. Las Delicias is the winter paseo from 2 to 4.30 P.M., with a band on holidays, and during the summer the Alameda de Apodaca, from 6. 30 to 9 P.M., with music every night, the paseo closing at Plaza de Mina. There are two theatres ; the Principal, which holds 1400 specta- tors, is elegantly fitted up. Italian operas, zarzuelas, and dramas are well performed. The Balon, in Calle Ancha, is not so well frequente ; comedies, dances, etc. The bull-ring, not so fash- ionable as that of Puerto de Sta. Maria, was built byMontes, the king of 'maes- tros. ' The carnival is a gay season, and in the Casino, which is handsomely fitted up, several good and well-attended subscription balls take p] ace. Foreigners CADIZ. roi are introduced to it by their consuls and members. Directory Consuls. H. B. M.'s Patrick Henderson, Esq. Yice-Consul Henry Macpherson, Esq., Calle Gines 4 (Church of England service at th Consulate). Vice-Consul at Algeciras, John H. Haynes, Esq. ; at San Lucar, Adolph. J. Aparicio ; at Puerto Sta, Maria, R. J. Pitman, Esq. ; at San Roque, Geo. Fred. Cornwell, Esq. Consul for France, Mons. A. A. Pon signon ; for Germany, Ernest Kropp for the United States, D. Ingraham, Esq. Doctor. Geronimo Ceballos, Rosario Cepeda 26 speaks French. Chemist. Viercio, Calle San Fran- cisco 25. Homoeopathic Dep6t. Calle Come- dias 3. Bankers. Wm. Shaw and Company, Consulado Yiejo ; Succursale of the Bank of Spain, Cruz de la Madera 4 ; Duarte (Coutts), 14 Calle Rosario. Giro Mutuo. Calle de la Ainar- gura 12. Casa de Cambio. Calle San Fran- cisco 16. Cadiz is celebrated for fans, ladies' shoes, gloves, and guitars. Spanish music, guitars, castagnettes, may be purchased at Quirell's, 17 Rosario ; fans, Rivera, Calle de la Constitucion ; Casanova, Murguia 5 ; gloves in the Calle Tetuan. Tailors, several good in the Calle San Francisco. Hairdresser, Rey, Rosario 10. Groceries, etc., Gomez y Bernal, Calle de la Constitu- cion 106. Wines, Arana, Plaza de la Constitucion 16. Jewellers, Caraban, Rosario 20 ; Gundersen, Plaza de la Constitucion 7. Shoemaker, Vega, Duque de Tetuan 25. Silks, linen, Manila shawls, etc., Calle Cristobal Colon 6 and 12. Booksellers. Jose Vides, San Fran- cisco 28 ; Joly y Velasco (La Revista Medica), Ceballos 1. A good assortment of maps, plans, etc., may be met with at the Litografia Alemana, Rosario 23. Cadiz possesses no good public lib- raries. The best are the Provincial, containing about 30,000 vols., open to the public from 10 A.M. to 3 P.M. (closed on holidays), and that of the Bishopric, with about 3000 vols., and open upon presentation of card. The private picture galleries, etc., are but poor. There are, however, several fair liter- ary and artistic societies and circles. Besides the Academia de las Bellas Artes, in the Plaza de Mina, there is the Real Academia Gaditana de Cien- cias y Letras, in the Calle Gamonales ; the Academia Gaditana de Ciencias y Artes, in the Calle de los Doblones ; an excellent Philharmonic Society in the Calle San Francisco ; and a Circulo Literario in the Calle San Jose. Not the least interesting bit of the city is the small but well ordered Jardin Botanico, situated in a small square behind the Paseo de las Delicias. It is uninviting at first sight, but contains many valuable trees and plants. Notice especially some specimens of the Dragon Tree of India (Dracaena Draco), one 500 years old, and a ' Trasparente ' tree of N"ew Zealand (Myoporum lacteum) ; also a fine array of tree geraniums and cactuses. Excursions. To Puerto de Sta. Maria, conveyances two and three times a day ; steamers leave near the railway Nation, Puerto del Mar, 6r. and 3r. ; it s 2 leagues by sea. By rail, 18f m., 102 CADIZ ENVIRONS. 1st cl., 16r.; 2d cl., 12r.; 3d. cl., 7r. ; in 1J hr., four trains a day. Inns. Vista- Alegre and La Torre ; population, 21,714 ; on right bank of the Guadalete. It was the Greek port of Mnesthea. This small, clean, uninteresting city is very popular with the majos and bull- fighters. Its plaza de toros holds 1 0,000 spectators. Visit the house of Marques de Purullena, which contains some good paintings and carving. Excellent wine, much like but inferior to that of Xeres, is produced here. The bodegas are in- teresting. The principal houses are Cosens, de Mora, Duff Gordon, Gon- zalez and Co. , etc. San Fernando, 20 minutes by rail, is also called La Isla de Leon, and is an island which the bridge of Zuazo connects to the main land, and over which one crosses the salted river of Sancti Petri. Observe all around the white snowy mounds shining in the sun, for here are the salt- pans (salinas) that bring in so important a revenue to the state. The observa- tory of San Fernando is the oldest in Spain, and is well provided with instru- ments, mostly English (Froughton and Simms's and Newman's). La Carraca. Steamers twice a-day, in 14 hr., and by rail to San Fernando, and then by omnibus (2r.) Leave to see it easily granted. This is one of the most important Government dockyards in Spain, and though considerably de- cayed, is fast recovering part at least of its former prosperity. It was esta- blished 1760. Visit the Caldereria, Arboladura, Forja, Fundicion, rope- walks, etc. There are three docks, two of which can hold ships with keels mea- suring 230 feet long. During the work- hours there are some 900 men variously employed, of whom 800 are presidarios. The edifices, cisterns, etc., are all on a large scale, and its whole area is of 949,580 square varas. To La Hot a. By steamer to Puerto Sta. Maria, whence by special dil. or across the bay in a sailing boat, 3 leagues by sea and 8 leagues by land. Dil. at the Puerto in attendance on the Muelle. The wine called Tintilla de Rota is made here, and when pure and anejo, is not to be despised by connoisseurs. 7256 inhab. The interior of its parish church is Gothic and spacious. This Phoeni- cian-built town was never of any im- portance, and is dull and uninteresting. Puerto Heal. By rail, f hr. ; founded in 1488 by Queen Isabelle. A small village, all regularity, ennui, and dirt ; a good new basin for steamers. On the first days of May there is a fail- held here, much frequented by the lower classes, and abounding then in pictur- esque groups, dresses, etc. Sanlucar (de Barrameda). 9 leagues by land and *l\ by sea. A gondola (small vehicle, and another name for a cart on springs) service between Puerto de Sta. Maria and Sanlucar daily, there and back ; offices on Paseo del Vergel ; 16r. berlina, 13r. interior, lOr. im peri- ale, in combination with hours of trains. By sea, steamers about two a- week, lOr. and 8r. Population, 19,943. It was founded by the Andalusian Tartesians about 3557 before Christ! It was re- covered from the Moors by Alfonso the Learned, who called it San Lucas, plac- ing it under the patronage of that saint. How this is to be reconciled with its Roman name, Lucifer, is difficult to guess ; however, the latter is a match to the other in puzzling etymologies. The canting arms are a castle with a star above, and at the foot of it a bull and an inkstand, the attributes of St. Luke, and the motto 'Luciferi fani Senatus.' The climate is delightful, and the Due de Montpensier has here a charming summer villa. There is an ancient parish church of the beginning of the 14th century, a good example of Mude- jar architecture. Observe the faade, 2 CARTAGENA. 103 rich Moorish roof studded with stars. It was built by Dona Isabel de la Cerda. It is dedicated to Our Lady of the 0. There is also a classical church of San Francisco. The wines vie with those of Xerez and the Puerto ; the bodegas are large and curious, the exports consider- able. Excursion to Huelva, and the mines of Bio Tinto, etc., by Sea. A small steamer runs to Huelva two or three times per week, in about 5 hrs. From thence railway into the mining district. Pop. of Huelva, 13,000. Hotel de Colon, first-rate ; moderate charges. H.B.M. Vice -Consul, E. Diaz, Esq. This ancient town is rapidly increasing in import- ance, owing to the shipping, etc., trade, con- nected with the mines. There is also a large exportation of wine. The climate is delicious and well suited to invalids. Excursion by boat to Palos and the convent of Santa Maria la Rabida. From the former, Columbus set sail, Aug. 3, 1492, to discover his new world, return- ing here again March 15, 1493. Here, too, Hernando Cortes landed, May 1528, after his conquest of Mexico. At the convent of La Rabida Columbus was received and sheltered by Perez de Marchena, the far-sighted prior, to whose influence Isabella's patronage of the seemingly visionary scheme of discovery was presently due. (See Prescott, etc. ; also a small work 'La Rabida y Cristdbal Colon,' published by Reyes y Moreno, Huelva, 1855.) The mines, of which Rio Tinto stands at the head, are situated some 30 m. inland, and, while not possessing any special attraction for the ordinary tourist, deserve a visit from all who are interested in colossal industrial under- takings. The work consists in the quarrying (for the ore lies in almost inexhaustible masses near the surface) of iron pyrites, containing 50% of sulphur, and about 4% of copper. It is shipped to England, France and Germany, for the manufacture of sulphuric acid and extrac- tion of copper ; and, inasmuch as the demand for the former is necessarily limited, immense quantities of the ore are calcined on the spot for the copper alone. As the process is carried on in the open every trace of vegetation for miles round is destroyed by the fumes of sul- phurous acid. Every attention is shown to visitors, who may find accommodation in seve- ral private houses. The Rio Tinto Co. em- ploys upwards of 4000 men, and raises over a million tons of ore in the year. The next largest concern is the Tharsis Co. (Tarshish of the ancients), situated nearer to Palos. Both these mines were worked by Phoenicians, Romans and Moors, and have been resusci- tated by English capital. No less a sum than 3,720,000 was paid in 1873 by the Rio Tinto Co. for its concession. CARTAGENA. Province of Murcia (pop., 1885, about 80,000). From Madrid. By rail. Two trains a day : 16 hrs. 525 kil. ; fares, Istcl., Pes. 60.40; 2d cl., 46.80. By the Madrid- Alicante Rail, as far as Chin- chilla Junction. Here the line to Murcia and Cartagena branches to the right. The scenery is most uninterest- ing. See for detail Murcia t 2d from Madrid. There are also occasional steamers to Alicante, Malaga, Valencia, Almeria, etc., about three a fortnight. To Alicante, 6 hrs. To Almeria, 13 hrs. General Description. This port is the largest in Spain after that of Vigo. It is the best and securest along the whole coast, sheltered from all danger- ous winds, and well protected by nature. The best inn is the Fonda Francesa, but the Hotel del Universe and Fonda de Ramos are both fair especially the latter. The town, dull and uninteresting, consists mainly of a long street, the Calle Mayor, which terminates in the Plaza de la Constitu- cion ; it is broad and relatively clean, but presents little to attract the travel- ler's notice. Cartagena was the Carth- ago Nova, founded by the Carthaginian family of the Barcas, who always founded cities near the sea. This port 104 CARTAGENA. was the most important the Cartha- ginians possessed in Spain, and became their great arsenal and general entrepftt. Its secure bay and situation facing the Mediterranean, half-way between Gaul and Tingitania, was not overlooked by the far-sighted Romans, who fortified it, and called it Colonia Victrix Julia. The Goths almost .destroyed it. When the navy of Spain was nourishing (17th century), Cartagena contained upwards of 60,000 inhabitants. Charles III. endeavoured, but in vain, to restore it to its former prosperity, and during the subsequent reigns it has gradually dwindled to but an unsatisfactory con- dition ; but life will, we trust, soon come back and fill those noble arsenals, magnificent docks, and admirable port, where nothing is wanting save ships and sailors ; articles not so easily made as the former. Among the very few sights is the arsenal, to visit which an order is neces- sary from the Comandante de Marina. The fortifications, basins, barracks, hospitals, rope-walks, foundries, are all built on a grand scale ; but they are ne- glected and left to decay. There are some few but interesting ruins in the vicinity, altogether neglected by anti- quaries. Trade, though checked lately by the low prices prevailing, is in a healthy state, and shows signs of revival. The iron, copper, and lead mines in the vicinity are actively worked, and many vessels arrive from England laden with coal to be employed in them ; the copper, silver, and lead are of excellent quality, and the filones abound. There is a small theatre and casino, into which travellers are easily admitted. As a residence the town is most dull, and there is no society. To obtain a fine view of the town, port, and surrounding scenery, we advise travellers to ascend Las Galeras, La Atalaya, or San Julian. The only church is that of Sta. Maria de Gracia, the old cathedral of 13th century being ruinous. Trade and Mines. The commercial importance of Cartagena has been greatly enhanced of late years by the development of the mining industries. The principal exports are minerals, lead and esparto, to the extent of about 650,000 tons of mineral, 31,000 tons of refined lead and 10,000 tons of esparto. The chief imports are coal and coke, to the amount of about 130,000 tons. The mines would yield ten- fold what they do now were they better managed ; the local miners and specu- lators prefer extracting what they can from the scoriae of ancient mines worked by the Romans, and which are found in considerable quantities buried under a thin stratum of alluvial soil. They thus extract, with little expense, from 4 to 10 per cent of lead. The beds of the numerous ravines, torrents, etc., in the vicinity, are also the object of lucrative speculation, and the sands and soil often yield, by washing, etc. , a very large percentage of lead in an almost pure state. The climate, formerly very unwhole- some, when the ague-stricken inhabit- ants used to die 'como chinches,' owing to the brackish water, the emana- tions of the ill-drained Almajar (a lake formed by the rains, near the town), etc., has been considerably modified and improved by the complete drainage of this focus of fevers, the waters of which now flow into the sea, and by several other works. H.B.M. Vice-Consul, Wm. Mil vain, Esq.; U.S.A. Vice -Consul, D. Albert Molina. Post Office. Calle de Ignacio Garcia. Telegraph Office. Calle de Jara. Qafes. Imperial, De la Marina and Del Puerto. 10* CASTILES (NEW AND OLD). Castilla-La-Nueva and Castilla-La- Vieja, the two largest provinces in Spain, have been divided into the pro- vinces of Burgos, pop. 355,000 ; Log- rofto, pop. 183,000 ; Soria, pop. 159,000; Segovia, pop. 151,000; Avila, pop. 176,000 ; Santander, pop. 242,000 ; Palencia, pop. 185,000 ; and Talladolid, pop. 244,000 (forming part of Old Cas- tile), and Madrid, pop. 489,000 ; Gua- dalajara, pop. 209,000; Toledo, pop. 343,000, and Cuenca, pop. 240,000 (New Castile), summing 2,976,000. These two great divisions are placed under the military jurisdiction of the Captain-General of New Castile, who resides at Madrid, and of that of Old Castile, who resides at Yalladolid, and are ecclesiastically dependent of the sees of Toledo and Burgos. Historical Notice. The earliest in- habitants were the Celtiberi, Carpetani, Oretani, etc. The name Castile was derived from the numberless castles placed on the frontiers, and serving as defences against home and foreign ene- mies. Castilla la Vizja was one of the first Christian kingdoms that rose against the invading infidel. The condado, or county of Burgos became a kingdom in 1035, and New Castile was annexed to it by Ferdinand I., the subsequent reigns of Alfonso VI. and VIII. strengthening the union ; and though tiirned for a time into chaos in the reigns of Peter the Cruel and Enrique IV., they were finally consolidated, and at the marriage of Isabel with Fedinand of Aragon were with this latter merged into one vast monarchy, 1479. Rivers, Mountains, etc. The princi- pal mountains are the Sierra Guadar- rama, to the N. E. of New Castile ; the snow-capped Somosierra to E. ; the ranges of Molina and Cuenca, which are joined to those of Alcarraz and Murcia ; the Montes de Toledo, which rise between the Tagus and Guadiana : and to the S. a portion of the Sierra Morena, which divides it from Anda- lusia. The most important rivers are the Elro, Duero, Tagus, etc. The mountainous districts are picturesque, highly interesting for their botany and geology. The rest of the country is composed of trackless, lonely, wind- blown plains, most fertile, though much exposed to drought, and thinly peopled. The heat is excessive in summer, and the icy blasts in winter come sweeping down from the lofty mountains, checked in their course by neither forests, hedges, nor cultivation. The People, Character, Dress. The Castilians are a grave, loyal, stern, trustworthy, and manly race, silent and proud ; poverty, ignorance, and bigotry are their lot, but not their work ; and their excellent qualities, and even de- fects, might be easily turned to good ac- count. They speak the purest Spanish, el Castellano, which Charles V. said was the only tongue in which man could presume to address the Divinity. They wear long cloaks, anguarinas, and a curiously-shaped cap or montera. The cities retain mostly all the cha- racteristics of the mediaeval Gotho- Castilian style, and abound in magnifi- cent examples of Gothic and Byzantine churches, and of military palatial archi- tecture. Andalusia is the land of the Moor, but Castile is alone truly and exclusively Spanish. ROUTES, ETC. The following comprises the principal cities I- Madrid to Alcala de Henares, r. Guadalajara, r. Siguenza, r. Soria, dil. Alfaro, r. Logrono, r. Burgos, r. Valladolid, r. Olmedo, r. Segovia, r. Avila, r. Escorial, r Madrid, r. Toledo, r. Albacete, r. Cuenca, r. Huete, r. 106 CATALUftA, We have entirely omitted such cities | we can testify, their contents are mostly as Aranda, Lerma, Buitrago, Talavera, Belmonte, etc., because, besides the difficulty of reaching them now, and the wretched accommodation, to which indifferent to the general tourist. The best season is the spring and early part of summer. CATALUNA Geographical and Administrative Division. Cataluna, a captaincy- general, el principado, as it is often called, has the shape of a triangle, the summit of which is formed by the Pyrenees and the base by the Mediter- ranean. It has an extent of 140 m. E. to W., and 154 m. K to S. The population, which amounted to 326,970 in the 15th century, numbers now (1885): in Gerona, 332,000 inhab. ; Barcelona, 771,000 ; Lerida, 385,000 ; Tarragona, 352,000; in all, 1,840,000 souls these four present provinces constituting formerly all Cataluna. It is a region of hills and valleys, the seaboard ex- tending some 389 kil. from Cape Cer- vera to the embouchure of Cervera, the principal ports being Barcelona, Tarra- gona, Salou, Eosas, Palamos, etc. The People, Character, Dress, etc. The Catalans are the most industrious, business-like, enterprising people in Spain ; they are the Scotch of this country, as the Andalusians are the Irish, and the Asturians the "Welsh. They are sober, laborious, honest, en- thusiastic for progress, proud of their own, looking up to France for example and competition, and down on the sur- rounding provinces with contempt and pity. Wherever there are trade, fabrics, enterprise, there you are sure to find Catalans ; in England, in America, in the East, they have everywhere, and in all ages and times, carried their insa- tiable love of enterprise and activity. They are vehement, austere, revengeful, and generally not capable of great feel- ing or lasting friendship, and egotism seems to be a pivot around which all their actions turn. They are besides destitute of stability in their own poli- tical principles, and have sold them- selves always to the highest bidder ; but it must not be forgotten that in their hearts and souls they are neither Spaniards nor French, they are Cata- lans ; and in their eyes, there is only one Cataluna, and Barcelona is its pro- phet. Their religion reaches supersti- tion ; their activity degenerates into feverish craving ; their love of liberty has led them to bloodshed, excesses, and rapine. They hold the commerce of Spain in their hands, and have been justly defined, as a province, the Spanish Lancashire. Cataluna has been always the centre of rebellion, the focus of re- publicanism and democracy ; it is the feeder of Spain, its stomach, which is the centre and cause of all disease in CATALUNA. 107 the great body. They are patient and daring soldiers, excellent sailors, and model smugglers and guerrilleros. The dress is plain and unpicturesque. The women las payesas who are not a handsome race, but strong, masculine, angular, and rough diamonds, wear a tight boddice, short dress, and an un- becoming handkerchief, mocado, on their heads, which is generally red. The men's dress consists of a very short velvet or cloth jacket, long loose dark trousers, which come up very high, and the sandal, espardinya, ; the head-gear is a reminiscence of their Carthaginian forefathers, and is a very long red or purple cotton nightcap -shaped ' gorro, ' not unlike that worn by the Genoese and Neapolitan fishermen ; the end either hangs on one side, or is doubled up and brought over the forehead : the red predominates. Indeed, the different provinces might be characterised by tints ; red would stand for Cataluna, blue and black for Andalusia, light green and white for Valencia, brown for Asturias, dark purple for Aragon, etc. The Catalans are, say their de- tractors, very egotistical, prosaic, and grasping money (dineros) is their god. This is exaggerated, for allowing that Poderoso caballero Es Don Dinero, to them the Roman satirist could not say : O cives, cives ! quserenda pecunia primum est, Virtus post nummos ; for they are very generous, spend their fortunes in works of art, patronise music especially, their popular poetry is even ethereal and German in its style and feeling, and the most straightforward maxims rule without exception. History. The Catalans are descend- ants of the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, and Greeks, who colonised all Medi- terranean Spain. It was considered, from its position, a very important pro- vince of Roman Spain ; Tarragona be- came the capital. Cataluna was divided into different minor states Cerretania, Ansetania, Castellania, etc. When Rome fell, and Spain was invaded by the Alani, Sueves, etc., the Goths fixed their first colonies here, and called it their own land, Gotha-lunia. When the Moors invaded it, dispossessing the Goths, the Franks crossed the Pyrenees, were repulsed, and driven back to Nar- bonne, but mustering great numbers, came again and took Barcelona. The Moors were defeated, and retired, and the French conquerors established a feudal condado, or county, calling it the Spanish Marche, and divided into nine smaller states. Wifred, governor under Charles the Bald, of France, raised the standard of revolt, and be- came the independent chief of the pros- perous and extensive condado of Bar- celona. The independence of the county lasted from the 9th to the 12th cen- tury. This was the greatest period of the prosperity, wealth, and power of Cataluna. It was then that the cele< brated maritime expeditions against the pirates of the Balearic Islands and Corsica took place, as well as the war with Majorca (then possessed by the Moors), which was carried on by Ramon Berenguer III. and the Catalan nobility the expeditions against the Moors in Spain the capture of Tortosa the alliances with the puissant republics of Genoa and Pisa, etc. By the mar- riage in 1137 of Ramon Berenguer IV. with Petronila, daughter and heiress of Ramiro el Monje, king of Aragon, Cataluna was merged in the crown of the latter country, and lost its inde- pendence. Annexed to Castile by the marriage of Ferdinand and Isabella, Cataluna no longer possessed the pros- perity and power of ancient times. Its 108 CATALUftA. energies, spirit of trade, and independent pretensions were crippled, scorned, and put down by the haughty courtier- warriors of Oastilla. Rebellion, the well-known sublevaciones, motines, so- matenes, pronunciamientos, and other suchlike outbursts, with which Catalan political vocabularies abound, began now never to cease. In 1640 they threw off the yoke of Philip IV., and offered their allegiance to Louis XIII., ' qui ne se fit pas prier, ' but hastened to proclaim himself Count of Barcelona. Put down in 1652, the rebellion was renewed in 1689, when they resisted Charles II., but were obliged to sur- render to the French army under the orders of Due de Yend6me. In the war of succession they sided with Austria, and in 1714 Philip V. bombarded Barce- lona, and destroyed one-third of it. But their want of success has not deterred them from indulging to this day in civil wars and revolutions. They are per- petual grumblers, and have taken to meetings, associations, political discus- sions, representaciones to Government and the Queen, couched often in ener- getic terms, etc. Free trade and Pro- tection are here at loggerheads, and the tariff and its grievances call forth the eloquence of its deputies at the Cortes, and the diatribes of its press-writers at home. Cataluna is with all this very prosperous, her manufactures increas- ing, and her trade thriving, especially with France. Mines, Agriculture, etc. Cataluna abounds in mines, though they are of no very great importance. Salt is found in great quantities at Cordona and Gerri, lead at Falset, lead and copper at Bassagoda, La Bisbal, Sellera, Vi- dresas ; tin, zinc, and cobalt are more scarce ; coal is found at Ripoll and San Juan de las Abadesas ; and the marbles of Tortosa and Tarragona are excellent, and in great repute. There are several excellent and bene- ficial mineral springs called Caldas (cal- das, hot), such as the Caldas de Mont- buy, Caldas d'Estrach, de Malavella, the sulphurous waters of La Puda, over the Llobregat, and of N. Sra. de Caldas. Linen, blondes, and lace are extensively produced, and besides paper- manufactures, soaps, spirits, etc., cot- ton-spinning has of late years acquired great importance, and mills are being established everywhere. The principal centres are Barcelona, Sabadell, Reus, etc. Agriculture is far from being neglected ; and Catalan energy has transformed the arid ravined soil into gardens and orchards, the example being given by the wealthy proprie- tors, who, un-Spanish-like, love to dwell on their estates, where they build handsome houses, called torres. The plains of the Ampurdau, the country about Gerona, Vich, Cerdaiia, Urgel, Tarragona, the Mediterranean board, are celebrated for the fertility of the soil, their olives, vines, and pas- tures. Wine of infinite varieties and tastes is likewise produced, among which we may name the delicious malvasia de Sitjes, those of Allera, Cullera, Trana, Taya, the heady Beni- carlo, sent to France to flavour and dar cuerpo to the spiritless acid piquette, Priorato (near Tarragona), etc. The rich red common wine, when matured by age, and then called rancio, is ex- cellent, especially with water. The principal rivers are, the Fluvia, Ter Ebro, Llobregat, Francoli, and Cerria, most emptying themselves into the Mediterranean. The recent revival of Art and Litera- ture in Cataluna is remarkable. The province has produced a succession of good names the painters Fortuny and Viladomat, the writers Balmes, Bo- farull y Balaguer, Soler, Verdaguer, etc. Routes. The cities have a very CATALUftA. 109 distinct character of their own, though mostly modernised. The monuments belong to the worst period of art, or, if ancient, have been sadly disfigured or neglected. This is speaking in a general sense, for there are some and very important exceptions, such as the cathedral and cloisters of Tarra- gona, the ruinous but interesting Po- blet, Cucufate del Valles, cathedrals of Barcelona, Gerona, Lerida, etc. These are as interesting as anything in the Peninsula, though some of them, as Poblet and Cucufate, lie so far out of the broad road that they are practically beyond the reach of the ordinary, hurried tourist. The best season to travel in Cataluna is the spring and autumn, and the mountainous districts in the summer. Barcelona is a good winter quarter for invalids. ROUTES Continued. Cervera, r. Poblet, d. r. Solsona, d. Lerida, r. Urgel, rid. d. Camprodon,dil. and r. French Pyrenees, Olot, r. rid. d. or walk. Ripoll, r. Puigcerda, rid. or Vich, r. walk. Granollers, r. Montblanch, r. Barcelona, r. ROUTES. Perpignan to Figue- ras, r. Gerona, r. Tortosa, r., indiffer- ent Reus, r. Mataro, r. Barcelona, r. Tarragona, r. Manresa, r. And a shorter, from Barcelona to Tarragona and Reus, then to Lerida and Manresa, and Monserrat (from stat. of), in a week's time. Books of Reference. 1. 'LosCondes de Barcelona vindicados,' by the learned Bofarull ; Barcelona, 1836, 2 4to vols. Highly important. 2. ' Recuerdos y Bellezas de Espana.' The portion relating to Cataluna has been ably written by Messrs. Piferrer and Pi y Margall. 3. ' Viage literario a las Iglesias de Espana,' by Yillanetiva. Yols. 5 to 21 relate to the churches and ecclesiastical history of Cataluna. 4. ' Espana Sagrada,' xxiv., Parte i.2. * Historia de Cataluna,' by D. Victor Balaguer, 1887-88; 'Las Ruinas de Poblet,' Madrid, 1886. 'Historia del Ampurdan,' by D. Jose Pella y Forgas (Illustrated), Barcelona, 1888. 110 CORDOVA, Capital of province of same name, bishopric, commandancia general ; pop. 50,302 (1878). Communications. 1. From Mad- rid. By rail throughout, distance, 442 kil. Time, 14| hrs. ; fares, lstcl.,Pes. 53.50; 2d cl., 41.40; fair restaurant at Alcazar. Fast exp., Monday, Wed- nesday, and Friday evenings. Description of Route. Between Alca- zar and Cordova the country is most uninteresting treeless, stony, wind- blown, are indeed the endless * Campos de la Mancha,' a name, however, very familiar to all readers as being so closely associated with Cervantes' immortal hero, El Hidalgo Don Quixote de la Mancha. Argamasilla de Alba, which is crossed soon after leaving Alcazar, is supposed to have been the place where Cervantes, thrown into its prison by the irascible debtors whose rents he had been sent to collect, began to write his novel, making his hero a native of the village which had so ill treated him. No one doubts here of the real existence of the gallant old knight, and there are several families who claim descent from that wisest of fools, and that shrewdest of madmen. One of the best and most recent editions has been printed in that very prison, the former town jail. Short- ly after we leave this station are seen, rising on our right, the foremost alturas of Sierra Morena. Manzanares. Tra- vellers to Lisbon change carriages. Valdepenas (Inn : Posada del Medio- dia), 11,200 thirsty souls, who almost live upon the excellent but improvable wine of that name the best common red wine in Spain. It originated with some vines brought from Burgundy, and which thrive in that flinty tract of countiy (Yal de Penas, literally, Vale of Rocks). Venta de Cardenas. This name is also familiar to readers of Don Quixote as being that of the venta to which Cardenio, the curate, and Doro- tea took the penitent knight on his giving up his solitary life. Linares. Close by are the celebrated lead and copper mines of that name, a national property. Cross the Guadalquivir at Menjibar, and we then reach Andujar, about 10,000 inhab., sombre, backward, and unwholesome. In its church a fine Sto. Sepulcro in relief ; around are very extensive olive -grounds, and close by flows the Guadalquivir. The Conven- tion of Bailen, July 23, 1808, was signed here. After crossing the bridge, one enters the province of Cordova, Not far from Pedro Abad is El Carpio, with a Moorish tower, built in 1325. Close to Casa Blanca is a very fine black marble bridge of 20 arches. The Guad- alquivir to the left. Cordova soon ap- pears, in not a striking situation. To S.E. of the valley is the large conical rock and castle of Almodovar, one of Don Pedro's fortresses, where he kept his treasures, sometimes amounting to 70 million ducats. Now the Guadalbarbo is crossed, the orange and the palm mingle with the dusty ungainly olive, and Cordoba is reached. 2. From Seville (see Seville), 4 hrs. from Cadiz ; by rail through Seville, 9 hrs. ; both by rail direct. 3. From Gfranada. Granada by Loja, Anteguera to Bobadilla, by rail, about 4 hrs. ; at latter station take up the Malaga to Cordova train, 6 hrs. For description of route, see Granada from Cordova. 4. From or to Almaden mines. By rail via Almorchon, or riding, 18 leagues. CORDOVA. Ill Cordova to Viilaharta Villanueva del Duque Los Pedroches Santa Eufemia Almaden Leagues. . 6 5 18 5. From Malaga. By rail direct ; distance, 195 kil. ; time, 6 hrs. (mail train, correo) ; fares, 1st cl., Pes. 24.45 ; 2d cl., Pes. 18.35. For description of route, see Malaga from Cordova. 6. From Jaen. By branch line to Menjibar or Espeluy, where change into Madrid train. Two trains per day. Distance from Jaen to Menjibar, 33 kil. Time, about 1 hr. A continua- tion of the Jaen branch to Granada has been long projected. In the mean- time a dil. runs daily in about 8 hrs. Hotels. Fonda Suiza, same pro- prietors as the hotels de Paris in Madrid, Seville and Cadiz. Yery good. Prices from 8 pes. per day up- wards. Fonda de Oriente, Fonda Espanola, both fair ; prices from 7 pes. upwards. One or two fair Casas de Huespedes ; No. 18 San Pablo, and No. 4 Marmol de Baiiuelas. Carriages may be hired at the hotels for 25 P. a day, and 12 J P. half the day. Horses, for promenades and travel, are readily procured. Casino and Library. A good club. Strangers admitted for a fortnight upon member's introduction. French and Spanish papers. The Biblioteca [Pro- vincial is small (8000 vols. ), but worth a visit. Some good MSS. Admittance free. Post Office. Plazuela de Benavente. Cafe's. Del Gran Capitan, on the favourite promenade of same name, Cafe Suizo. H.B.M. Vice-Consul. William Poole, Esq. Protestant chapel and school. N.B. Those desirous of visiting an olive farmhouse, etc., will do well to go to Bujalance, Cabra or Montoro- Aguilar, etc. For details of the pro- ceedings, etc., see Gen. Inf. : Agri- culture. Climate. Owing to the low and somewhat sunk situation of the city in a valley, the utter want of trees, the scanty irrigation, etc., the heat in sum- mer is very great indeed almost insup- portable and the wealthy inhabitants migrate to veranear in the cool valleys of the Sierra. The climate is, however, wholesome, and the spring and autumn are delightful. The most common ill- nesses are catarrh, intermittent fevers, inflammatory fevers, and pulmonics. The average temperature is Rh. In spring . . . 15 In summer . 21 In autumn . . . .14 In winter . . . . 5 to 6 The thermometer has never been known to rise above 33 to 34 in summer, or to fall below 3 under zero. As to wind, it is exposed to the 1ST. wind. The Sierra, extending from E. to "W., screens the town a good deal from the S. burning blast ; the most prevalent are E., S.W., W., KW. Mortality is 1.25; great age is seldom reached. The climate has changed considerably since the time of the Moors, when Cor- dova and its districts were held to be a perfect paradise upon earth, of which its black-eyed women were the houris. Cordova is situated 37 42' K lat, 4 45' W. long. General Description. Cordova, once the centre of European civilisation, the successful rival of Baghdad and Da- mascus, the seat of learning and reposi- tory of arts, sank long ago into a third- rate provincial city, backward, dull, ill-provided, depopulated and silent a city of the dead. The very labourer, forgetful of the golden rules practically laid down by the industrious Moor for 112 CORDOVA. converting wastes into gardens and or- chards, looks sluggishly on his treeless, waterless, parched up valley, confident that what little seed falls from his lazy hands will ripen under the generous sun into an abundant crop. Thus it is that the extent of the district (Termino), being 184,238 fanegas (Gen. Inf.) of land, yields only about 205, 000 yearly. The peasants' antipathy to trees is shown by the fact that out of the above extent they cover a surface of scarcely 4000 fanegas ! In the 16th century, the district of Sta. Clara yielded half-a-million fanegas of corn a-year ; and the silk, once a source of wealth to the khalifate, scarcely yields 4000 Ibs. a-year. The celebrated Cordovan breed of horses, called Oel-mefki, and worthy of the Prophet's beautiful description of a horse in the Koran, have also degene- rated ; and though they are still elegant, swift-footed, shining with lustrous hair and beautiful tail and mane, yet their size, high legs, thick ' acarnerada ' head and neck, bespeak neglect and sad cros- sings. The city, once the abode of the flower of Andalusian nobility, is inhabited chiefly by the administradores of the absentee senorio, their * solares ' are de- sert and wretched, the streets; ill paved though clean, and the whitewashed houses, unimportant, low, and denuded of all art and meaning, either past or present. There are now but few and fast- fading vestiges of the glorious Moslem dominion. Indeed, artists and poets will feel here as elsewhere that their progress through Spain is, as it were, little else than following the long funeral of that Eastern genius that left no heirs behind save such like cities as this one, that sit in widowhood pointing to some great monument as an eloquent record of the past. But, as Victor Hugo justly remarks, Cordoue aux maisons vieilles A sa mosquee ou Pceil se perd dans les mer- veilles ; and that magnificent edifice a town in itself with its many streets formed by marble pillars, like alleys of trees, com- pensates for the absent life from the body, whose limy, white, and calcined skeleton lies before us. For the passing tourist who is busy doing Spain, a few hours will suffice ; but the artist, the antiquary, the lover of the beautiful, of the poetry and music infused in stones, must linger more, and visit the mosque oftentimes and at various hours of the day. The environs, valley, and sierra teem with magnificent fruit of excep- tional size and exquisite flavour, abound with game the boar, deer, and even lynx ; and the botanist will meet with a very extensive flora, comprising up- wards of 1500 sorts of plants, many of which will be new to him and deserve investigation. Cordova will appear most Oriental to the traveller coming from the North, and who has not seen Seville, Granada, etc., and has, at all events, a most un- European character about its streets, narrow and winding, its flat-roofed houses, the stately palm waving in the silent air from behind a garden wall, over which enormous oranges, citrons, and limas cluster and fall like golden balls. The appearance and colouring of the suburbs and sierra by evening time will tempt many a painter and poet besides Roberts and Southey. History. Cordova, whose name, Bo- chart supposes, is derived from the Syrian coteb, * oil -press,' and, accord- ing to Conde, Carta-tuba, an ' import- ant city, ' was but little known under the Phoenicians. Silius Italicus mentions it in his poem on the second Punic War, ' Nee decus auriferse cessavit Corduba terris,' when Hannibal disposed of troops furnished by that city. Martius CORDOVA CATHEDE AL. 113 first, 206 B.C., and A. Marcellus after, gave it importance, and the latter founded here the first Roman colony, which was called Patricia, from the number of patrician families that came from Rome and established here their home. Cordova subsequently became the capital of Ulterior Spain, and sub- sequently of Baetica. It sided with Pompey, which opinion cost the lives of 28,000 of its inhabitants, who were put to death by Caesar, after his victory of Munda. Under the Goths the city lost its importance, to regain it, and reach its highest acme, when it became Moor- ish. It was taken shortly after the battle of the Guadelete by Mugueith El Rumi, who, through the assistance of the Jews inside, obtained possession of it, and entrusted part of its garrison to the sons of Israel, ever ready to open the doors to let in the enemy and divide the spoils. Subject at first to the khalifate of Damascus, Cordova about 756 declared itself independent, and became the capi- tal of the Moorish Empire of Spain, under the Ummeyah Abdu-r-rhaman. Under the princes of this dynasty, this city (10th century) contained 300,000 inhabitants (including the suburbs), 600 mosques, 50 hospitals, 800 public schools, 900 baths, and 600 inns ; a library of 600,000 volumes, besides 70 private ones in the rest of the kingdom. The revenue amounted to six millions sterling. Discord now began to weaken the extensive kingdom ; the factions among the sheiks, aided by the progress of the Christians, soon put an end to the prosperity of the kingdom, and on June 30, 1235, St. Ferdinand entered the city. Ever since that time, and notwithstanding the many privileges granted to its inhabitants and the no- bility that resided here, Cordova never recovered even the shadow of its former prosperity. In the 17th century the population did not reach 70,000, and has now dwindled to little more than 50,000. Eminent Natives. Cordova, the abode and cradle of many of the noblest Spanish houses, 'la poblacion de Europa de mas limpia y apurada nobleza,' as Gonzalo de Cespedes has it, has been the birthplace of several great writers, such as Seneca (6 A.C.), the master of ISTero ; the stoic philosopher Lucan (39 A.C.), the author of 'Pharsalia ;' Aver- roes (12th century), the erudite trans- lator of Aristotle ; Moses Maimonides (1139), the rabbi ; Juan de Mena (1412), the author of * El Laberinto ; * Sepul- veda, Gongora, Cespedes, A. de Morales, etc. The French, under Dupont, June 1808, entered the unresisting city, which they sacked, murdering the in- habitants in cold blood. The plunder, according to Maldonado, exceeded 100,000, of which 25,000 alone were found among Dupont's luggage. Sigh.ts.The cathedral (or mosque), Alcazar, El Triunfo, churches, minor sights, and the environs. Cathedral, or Mosque: its His- tory. On entering the city, the Moors, as was always the case, assured to the Christians the liberty of their religion, and by treaty allowed them the use of their cathedral, dedicated to San Vi- cente, built on the site of a temple of Janus. All the other churches were destroyed but this one, which was ex- tant in 745, as the author of the Akhbar Madjmona asserts most formally. But the augmentation of population which soon arose obliged the Moors to adopt here the plan already followed at Damascus and Emesia, and half the cathedral was wrested from them and converted into a mosque, just as half their mosque was, centuries after, con- verted into a Christian church. In 784 Abdu-r-rhaman I. insisted on obtaining 114 CORDOVA CATHEDRAL. the other half, and a transaction ensued by which the Christians were allowed to rebuild all their former churches, and received for their cathedral the sum of 100,000 dinars (40,000, but equal now to 440,000). That prince had determined, from political as well as religious motives, to build a magnifi- cent mosque on the plans of that of Damascus, to exceed the then new one of Bagdad in splendour and extent, and comparable only to the Acksah of Jerusalem. It was to be the Mecca of the West, and to be called the Zeca, or House of Purification, and pilgrimages to its wondrous Mih-rab were to be considered equivalent to those made to the Caaba of the Prophet. The khalif in person designed the edifice, gave up for its erection a large portion of his revenue, and is said to have worked at it himself for a few hours every day. It was begun in 786, and the follow- ing year, on the untimely death of the founder, it was already much advanced. Hashem or Hixem, his son, continued it on the same plans, and with such ac- tivity that it was completed in 796 that is, ten years after the first stone was laid. At the death of the founder 100,000 gold doblas had already been spent. Abdu-r-rhaman III. erected the fountains and its most elegant minaret. The mosque now consisted of eleven naves, 642 ft. long by 293 ft. wide. Al Massour, the hadjeb of Hashem II., ordered eight more naves to be added, and erected the chapel where the Imans assembled, now called Capilla de Villa- viciosa. On entering the captured city, St. Ferdinand had the mosque purified and dedicated to the Virgin. Several chapels, altars, sacristies, etc. , were now added, and about July 1521 the transept and choir were begun ; but when Charles V., who had allowed these works to be made, came to Cordova in 1526, and saw what had taken place, he exclaimed indignantly : * I was not aware of this ; for had I known you intended to touch the ancient portion, 1 would not have permitted it. You have built here what can be built anywhere else, but you have destroyed what was unique in the world.' Hernan Ruiz, on Septem- ber 7, 1523, had begun the works ; the elegant alminar or belfry, built by Ab- du-r-rhaman, and which had also been disfigured by Hernan Ruiz, fell to the ground and was replaced by the present belfry. Its Style and Proportions. The Mosque of Cordova may be considered as the most perfect specimen extant, or ever erected, of the religious architec- ture of the Moors of Spain. Indeed, it is generally thought to be ' the finest type in Europe of the true temple of Islam ;' and as the result and expres- sion of one age, one plan, one idea, the consequent unity of design is evident. In shape it is the Basilica, adapted to the Moslem worship. Its characteris- tics are : vastness, originality, great simplicity in the distribution, solidity severe and massive, great elegance in the curves and profiles, a happy com- bination of lines producing vistas. What this edifice must have been in its palmy days, when its roof was higher and glis- tening with gilding and vivid colours, and thousands of gold and silver lamps ; when its walls were worked like lace, and looked like Cashmere shawls illu- minated from behind, and its arches like so many gigantic bows, studded with emeralds and rubies, resting on mosaic trunks of porphyry, jasper, and other precious marbles, may be imagined ; but now whitewash has obliterated the past magnificence, and ignorance and neglect have done the rest. The area is 642 ft. long K to S., by 462 ft. wide, E. to W. (this being the last measurement made in 1811), CORDOVA CATHEDRAL. 115 Exterior. The enclosing walls are most picturesque, and preserve all their Moorish character. They are in tapia, averaging from 30 to 60 ft. in height, and 6 ft. in thickness, and strengthened here and there by square buttress towers. In the S. wall, which, by the declivity of the site, reached a great height, were built as many as nineteen towers, their whole number amounting to forty-eight towers, of which most remain. There were sixteen entrances, and twenty- one interior doors. The external ones were generally square, with horseshoe arches, and very richly decorated. The boul- ders, stones, sillones, of which the walls and great part of the towers are built, were of the size used by the Romans, 4 ft. long and 2 ft. wide. The almenas (buttresses indented) crowning the walls and concealing the roof are about 3 ft. high, and are indented and trian- gular, except here and there on the towers, where they assume an unfinished large flower- vase form. Half of those towards the patio have the shape of a fleur-de-lys, but they are modern ; whilst the former are of Persian origin, with- out models in Greece or Italy. The Court of Oranges, Puerta del Perdon, and cistern are most Moorish. All the former ingresses are now blocked up and closed save one. Observe those on the E. side, with their rich spandrils, pillar- ets, and agimeces Puerta del Perdon is the largest and most beautiful. These entrances, very common in Spanish cathedrals, were so called from the in- dulgences granted to those who passed under them. On the sides of it are the coats of arms of Castile and Leon, and the inscription around it is : * ON THE 2ND DAY OF THE MONTH OF MARCH, OF THE ERA OF CESAR, 1415 (1377 A. C.), IN THE REIGN OF THE MOST HIGH AND PUISSANT DON EN- KIQUE, KING OF CASTILE.' The doors themselves are curiously orna- mented with bronze artesonillos, form- ing different patterns, and in Gothic letters the word * Deus,' and in Arabic characters, ' The Empire belongs to God : all is His. ' In the 16th century several fresco paintings were placed over this portal, but they were defaced, and wretched ones put up in the 17th and 18th centuries. Court of Oranges. This patio, 430 ft. by 210 ft., is divided into three cuadros or quarters ; in the centre of each is a fountain. There were always trees in it, especially palms and cypresses, many of which were destroyed in a hurricane (1822.) Most of the present orange- trees date 16th century. At each end, except the S. , of this court is a colon- nade of marble pillars, supporting cir- cular arches. They date from after the capture of Cordova by the Christians. The cistern, used for ablutions, was put up in 945 by Abdu-r-rh^man, and the court is the work of Said Ben Ayub, 937. On each side of the entrance to the ca- thedral is a Roman military column, found in the mosque in 1532, with an inscription stating the distance (114 m.) to Cadiz from the Temple of Janus, which stood on this site. The Belfry. The former Muezzin tower, built by the Khalif Abdu-r-rha- man III. on the site of a still earlier one, was modernised by the Christians, and then thrown down by a storm, and the present bastard insignificant struc- ' ture erected in 1589 by Hernan Ruiz, crowned by a gilt statue of St. Rafael. Interior. The first impression is that of bewilderment and astonishment, pro- duced by the interminable and seem- ingly confused mazes of pillars, compared by a French writer to a roofed-in forest. The roof is 35 ft. high ; the cupolas are modern, and put up in 1713. The Moorish roof was flat, the beams appa- rent, painted and gilt, and made of aler^ 116 CORDOVA CATHEDRAL. (which is the Thus articulata or Arbor vitae, a wood considered incorruptible), which when taken down were found as sound as when placed there eleven cen- turies before. The pillars numbered once upwards of 1200, now reduced to 850 ; but if we include those embedded in the walls and others absorbed, so to say, in works of repair, etc. , there may even now be said to be about 1000. They are all monolithic (of one block), and came, already shaped, capitals and all, from different countries, Roman temples, mosques, etc. ; in Spain, chiefly from Seville and Tarragona ; in France, from Nismes and Narbonne ; from Car- thage in Africa ; from Constantinople, whence 140 were sent as a present by the Emperor Leo ; and hence the diver- sity of styles, sizes, etc. They are all of marbles of different hues and species the jasper, green and blood jasper, the deep black, white, red, rose, emerald, porphyry. The basements were sup- pressed, probably to shorten their height. The capitals are generally Composite, almost all those on the E. side Corin- thian ; but this character is vaguely ex- pressed and rudely conceived. Others have purely Arab and African capitals. These pillars form nineteen spacious naves, from E. to W., and twenty-nine from N". to S. , which, intersecting each other at right angles, produce great variety of perspectives, enhanced by the elegant ultra-semicircular or horseshoe arcies, most originally placed one upon another, and which, used in this mosque for the first time, add to its architectural value. The important additions made by Al-Manssour are in the African style of transition, and characterised by the presence of the ogival arch, used here for the first time in the Moorish monu- ments of Spain and the type of the Spanish ogival style. The Mih -rob, or Sanctuary of the Mosque. In this small and most beau- tiful recess, the Othmanic Koran wa-^ placed, and the Khalif, the Prince of the Faithful, Defender of the Faith, Pope and Autocrat at the same time, used to perform his chotba or public prayer at the window towards the ceca, or holy of holies, and placed to the Kiblah, or S. that is, in the direction of Mecca. This Mih-rab forms a heptagon 13 ft. in diameter, and 27 ft. high to the cupola. The pavement is of white marble, as well as the base- ment and the shell-shaped roof (all of one block). The six sides of the hepta- gon are decorated with three-lobed arches resting on marble pillarets, with gilt capitals of most excellent workman- ship. These stand upon a low cornice, under which runs an inscription in gold. Inside was kept the pulpit of Al-Ha- kem II., unparalleled in the world. It was all of ivory and precious woods and stones, inlaid, and fastened with gold and silver nails ; it cost some 250,000, equal, certainly, now to a million sterling ! In it was kept the famous copy of the Koran made by Othman, and stained with his blood. It was contained in a box covered with gold tissue, embroidered with pearls and rubies, and placed on a lectern made of aloe, with gold nails. This pulpit disappeared not very long ago. At the hour of the Azalah this book was opened and read by the Iman, and then taken to where the gold and silver sacred vases were placed, which appeared in the illuminations of the month of Ra- madan. To right and left of this sanc- tuary were the habitations of the clergy. To the right was also a door leading by a passage to the Khalif's Palace, which was close by. Al-HakemII., who built the Mih-rab and Maksurah, began these works about 961 A.c. (according to the historian of Magreb, Ibn Adzari, published in the original by Dozy of CORDOVA CATHEDRAL. 117 Leyclen, and translated by S. Gayangos for Sr. Madrazo, * Cordova,' pp. 173-4). The cupola or ' cubba ' of the Mih-rab was put up in 965, according to some hitherto unedited documents. The mosaic ornamentation surpasses all the finest examples of this Byzantine art elsewhere in Italy, Africa, or the East. It was the Greek Pseph&sis and Moorish Sofeysafah. The Emperor Leo sent the earliest examples of it to Ab- du-r-rhaman for his palace of Azzahra. The Cordovan khalif, Hakem, sent an embassy to Constantinople, asking for artists skilled in this peculiar way of giving to glass, flint, and metals the effect and appearance, and almost the texture, of a velvet and gold brocade. The artists came, bringing as presents 325 quintals of this enamelled mosaic. The designs are Byzantine, as all ob- jects of art and luxury were in Western Europe in the 10th century already. This as well as the rest of the mosque must have shone like a palace of the 'Arabian Nights,' when in the festi- vities of the Rhamadhan this Mih-rab alone was lighted up by a lamp number- ing 1454 lights, and the GOlbs. -taper placed by the khalif. The rest of the mosque was lighted by 4 lamps like the above ; 280 candelabra, most of bronze. The total number of lights was 10,805, and 750 arrobas of oil were used per month. (See ' Al. Makkari, vol. i. book 3d, chapter ii.) The Cufic inscription refers to the two columns placed at the entrance in 965 A.c. by Al-Hakem. " When last I visited this mosque, Muley- Abbas, a brother of the Em- peror of Morocco, had just been through it. He went seven times on his knees round the sanctuary, as was wont with the Moors here and at Mecca, and sighed and prayed, and then wept loudly, sobbing like a child. All this splendour had been the work of his ancestors. They had raised this won- der, and now the degenerate Moor could not even read the Arabic in- scriptions ! " H. O'S. The formal erection of the mosque into a cathedral took place in 1238, under the usual name of Sta. Maria. The lateral aisles were converted into chapels. High Chapel. Built in 1547, by Hernan Ruiz, and finished by his son and Diego de Praves, 1599. The style | of it is Morisco-Gothic and plateresque. The fine retablo, which cost 50,000 ducats, is the work of the Jesuit Matias Alonso, who began it in 1618, and finished it ten years after. It is made out of the rosy jasper from Carcabuey, with gilt bronze ornaments. The painting is by Antonio Palomino. The statues indifferent. The tabernacle, also by Alonso, aided by Sebastian Vidal (1653), is very rich, and well executed. Observe the magnificent silver lamp hanging from the roof, and weighing 16 arrobas (1636). Choir. This is the work of Hernan Ruiz, who commenced it in 1523, and finished it in 1539. The style is pla- teresque and effective. The stalls are sixty-three in number, and by Isabel Farnesio's favourite sculptor, Pedro Duque Cornejo, 1257 churrigueresque, but there is great finishing in the elaborate details. The mahogany pul- pits, with attributes of the Evangelists, are clumsy the work of Miguel Verdi - guier (1766). Entre los coros lies Lope de Rueda, the great comic writer, superior in many points to Moliere. Chapels. The forty-five chapels and offices around the naves are mostly very indifferent. They date generally from a period unfavourable to taste in art, and their pictures, statues, etc., are very indifferent. Notice notwith- standing Capilla de San Andre's (1628). A picture of St. Eulogio, by V. Carducho, 118 CORDOVA. 0. San Esteban. Martyrdom of the saint by Luis Zambrano. 0, del Cardenal Salazar. Finished 1705 ; founded by Cardinal Salazar ; churrigueresque. In the sacristia mayor inquire for the fine Custodia of Arfes (Gothic), for the Cruz Antigua, full of florid Gothic details, but ill re- paired. The relics are kept here. The beautiful Custodia of Arfes was begun 1513, and finished 1518. Observe especially the chapel of Villavidosa, most interesting for its Moorish decoration of the 14th century. This was the Maksurah once, or Seat of the Khalif, all paved with silver. Cespedes is buried in front of Chapel of San Pablo (ob. 1608). Observe this artist's paintings of St. John, St. Andrew, and The Last Supper, his masterpiece. Over altar de San Rafael hangs the Apparition of the saint, a fine painting by the same master. A pillar is shown with a rudely traced Crucifixion, said to have been the work of a Christian captive, who executed this wonder with his nail, and whilst he was for years fastened to this pillar ; an improbable story, as the Moors never could have tolerated a Christian captive within a mosque. Observe a fine Moorish chapel adjoin- ing the Villa viciosa, formerly the Capilla Mayor of the first Christian church. Minor Ch.urch.es. Colegiata de San Hipblito. Dates middle of 14th cen- tury. Built by Alfonso XI., in thanks- giving for his victory at Tarifa, when he won the battle del Salado, 1340. PHlip V., in 1728, removed to this church the Capilla Real, formerly in the cathedral, and founded in 1371 by Henrique II. Ferdinand IV. and his son, the chivalrous and gallant Alfonso XL, lie buried here. This church was modernised in 1729, and is in the vile taste of that period. In the High Chapel lie the bodies of the father, mother, and brother of the gran capitan, Gonzalo de Cordova, luckier than this great hero, whose ashes were scattered to the winds during the French inva- sion. Here also lies the erudite * cro- nista ' Ambrosio de Morales, in a plain tomb erected by his pupil, Cardinal Sandoval y Rojas, Archbishop of To- ledo. The privileges, etc. , of the Royal Chapel and Colegiata were suppressed by government in 1852. Church of Sta. Marina de Aguas Santas. Modernised, except on the outside. Founded in 7th century, but rebuilt after the conquest. Some in- different pictures and tombs of the Benavides, and of a Marquesa de Gua- dalcazar (ob. 1803), who (a rare in- stance in Spain) was a blue stocking, Doctora en Filosofia y Letras Humanas, Fellow of the Spanish Royal Academy, etc., and died aged thirty-five. Most of the parish churches date 13th and 14th centuries, but have been so ill re- paired and churriguerised that they have lost most of their importance. The Belfry Tower of San Nicolas is very pretty and Moorish-like. Upon it are the words, 'Paciencia, obedi- encia, ' said to have been put up as a re- proof to the nuns of San Martin, for- merly in this square, who objected to this church being erected opposite to them, as it would impede the prospect they then enjoyed. Visit the cloisters and staircase of San Pablo ; Alo. Cano's Ecce Homo, in Chapel of San Pedro el Real, now a cloth-manufactory; and outside the town is the picturesquely- situated Santuario de N. Sra. de Fuen- santa (8th, 9th, and 10th September are great holidays, kept up here with pomp and pious jollification). Observe four copper paintings, ascribed to Teniers, one of which represents tho * Crowning Christ with Thorns. ' The Alcazar, or Khalif's Palace, T*as CORDOVA THE ALCAZAR. 119 very extensive, and occupied the site of the present prison, bishoprick, etc. Now nothing remains save a few walls and orchards. It was situated "W. of the city, and S. of the river. It was the former palace of the Gothic kings, where the khalifs lodged first, and then repaired and modified it, enlarging it considerably. The little we know of this palace, doubtless magnificent and spacious, is derived from Al-Makkari Ibn-Bashkuwal, and Aben Hayyan, who mention its wonderful gardens and halls, and its baths provided with water brought from the Guadalquivir through a hydraulic brick machine, called Albo- lafia. These baths existed till the end of the 15th century, when the machine, probably in the shape of a huge hy- draulic wheel, was destroyed because its noise kept Queen Isabella awake, when she was lodged in the Alcazar. The Alcazar Nuevo, now a prison, was for- merly the residence of the Santo Oficia (Inquisition), and built in 1328 by Al- fonso XL It is a square, enclosed by a thick wall, with towers at the angles. The interior, with its twenty dungeons (calabozos) and seven patios, we advise readers to abstain from visiting, for it is now the abode of misery, vice, filth, and neglect. The gardens of the Al- cazar are most indifferent and weedy. In the chapel is a good Crucifixion by A. del Castillo. The Bishop's Palace dates of 15th century, but was considerably repaired and almost rebuilt in 1745, in the chur- rigueresque style. Ferdinand VII., whose fate seems to have been to dwell in confinement, was kept here a pri- soner in 1823, and attempted to escape. In the Town Hall are kept the archives of the city, deficient in general interest and ill arranged. Museo. Cordova never produced great painters Pablo de Cespedes, Arbasia, and their pupils, Mohedano, Zambrano, Raphaelesque in his style, Vela, who imitated Carducci, Contreras and Pena, and the modern Monroy, are the only names we know of. The style they adopted was Italian and Sevillian. The present picture-gallery contains some 239 paintings all rubbish. Among other curiosidades, we may mention a small bronze deer, said to be Moorish work, and to have been found in the gardens of Azzhara. Walls and Gates. The walls are all of Moorish workmanship, though re- paired since. They are of tapia, and strengthened by bold turrets, square, octagon, etc. The gates have lost much, and many all their picturesque former character ; notice, nevertheless, that of Almodovar ; of El Osario, flanked by turrets ; that of El Puente, after designs by Herrera ; the two good bassi-relievi above are ascribed to Torri- giano. Julius Csesar describes the ori- ginal circumvallation, of which little has been changed since (B.C. 11-19). Around the Almodovar gate lay the ancient Juderia, or Jews' quarters, and it was called by the Moors after them 4 Bab-1-Yahud.' The tower close to it, Torre de la Mala Muerte, dates 1406. The Bridge. The bridge over the Guadalquivir is said by the Arab writers to have been originally built by Octa- vius Csesar, but it was entirely rebuilt by the khalifs of Cordova. It is com- posed of sixteen arches, and is very picturesque, as well as the Moorish mills close to it, and the Calahorra (Kalat horreah) tower, with its poly- gonal barbican and buttresses, is most effective, and played an important part in the siege of Cordova by Pedro of Castile. The streets of Moorish Cordova are the first that were ever paved in Europe, and were so by order of Abdu-r-rhaman, in 850. The principal ones are the Calle de la Feria, now de San Fernando, 120 CORDOVA. San Pablo, Carniceria, Sta. Victoria, el Potro, etc. Visit the quaint and very old square of La Corredera, so called because it was the site where tourna- ments and correr toros took place. The wooden galleries, etc., date 1683, and are the work of the popular and famous Alcalde Ronquillo. Readers of * Don Quixote' will not fail to visit the Potro, a popular quarter, so called because formerly a horse-market (potro, a filly). Visit the Chapel of Hospital del Car- denal, which was part of the mosque built by Al-Manssour, near his palace. El Triunfo is a heavy, clumsy monu- ment, erected by Bishop Barcia in com- memoration of the miraculous apparition of St. Rafael, the tutelar of Cordova, whose statue crowns this wretched monument (1765). Private Houses and ProutUts. Most of the fine old solares built in the 15th and 16th centuries no longer exist, or are so disfigured as to deserve no atten- tion. Observe the house of the Mar- queses del Carpio (13th century), and that which belonged to the family of Paez de Castillejo. Of the 900 baths, remains of two only may be seen, in Calle del Bano Alta, No. 5, and Calle del Bano Baja, No. 10. They have been sadly disfigured, but still preserve their marble columns, the square lumbreras (louvres, loopholes), etc. In the Calle de las Cabezas is also a house called de las Cabezas, from the heads of the Infantes de Lara, that were placed on the fa9ade. The ballad, mentioning how these heads, treache- rously cut off, were served before the Infantes' father, is very characteristic of that time : Un costoso plato falta, Ay, fruta temprana 1 etc. (See A. de Morales' *Cr6n.,' lib. xxvi., etc.) Visit the Moorish houses, called Casa de la Cuadra, in the Plazuela de San Nicolas, remarkable for its gal- lery of jasper columns, with Byzantine capitals, and a beautiful arch, sadly whitewashed. That of Las Campanas, opposite to Church de Santiago, also preserves vestiges of past splendour and taste. Within the city is also the Campillo (now Campo Santo), where Christian martyrs were put to death, and the site of the Roman fortress and Moorish Al- cazar. It was hereabouts that grew the celebrated plane-tree, planted by Julius Caesar after the battle of Munda, and which Martial mentions : In Tartessiacis domus est notissima terris, Qua dives placidum Corduba Bsetin amat. Ep. 62, book ix. The house of El Conde del Aguila (Plaza Anto. Cabrera) is also curious. Excursions. Three miles N.W. of Cordova in a dehesa belonging to Marq. de Guadalcazar, and where now but very rare fragments of broken pillars are found, rose once the fairy palace of Azzahra, built by Abdu-r- rhaman An-nasir, for his sultana of that name. It was all of marbles, jasper, and stone, with great richness of decoration the statue of the favour- ite being placed over the door. The architect was the most famous that Stamboul could produce, and this royal village, a Moorish Versailles, sprang forth, as if by magic, under the wand of the Louis XIV. of that period. His harem contained 6300 women and 300 baths. His body-guard amounted to 12,000 men. His household consumed 13,000 Ibs. of meat daily. The works were begun in 936-7 A.O., and lasted many years. 3000 mules, horses, and camels were daily employed, with 10, 000 workmen, who were paid from one to three dirhems a-day (about 1). The khalif was so absorbed by the works CORDOVA - EXCURSIONS. 121 that lie even missed three Fridays' Za- lah at the mosque, upon which the the- ologian Mundhar threatened him pub- licly with hell fire. 4300 marble columns were brought from Rome, Nar- bonne, Tunis, etc. The total cost amounted to 7^ millions of dinahrs (52 millions sterling), which were de- frayed by the third of the emperor's revenue. Many other details concern- ing this wondrous palace and its two mosques may be found in Al-Makkari's histories 'Hist, of Magreb,' by Ben Adzari, etc. There is here a buried mine of Moorish art, that calls loudly for a Mariette or a Layard. See Recuer- dos, etc., de Espana, Cordova, p. 407. An excursion may be also made, espe- cially in summer or spring, to the Arri- zafa, J league from Cordova, on the slopes of the Sierra, and in a charming situation. It was the Rizzefah, a villa erected by Abdu-r-rhaman, but of which nothing now remains. The present edifice and gardens belong to the land- lord of Hotel Suizo, who lets it on very moderate terms. An omnibus daily in summer. The country around is woody, and pleasant paseos can be taken. The carob-tree, evergreen oak, variegated cistus, myrtles, and palms grow forest- like. According to Conde, that master in erudite errors, the first palm ever seen in Spain was planted here by Abdu- r-rhaman, who is said to have composed to it the melancholy verses in which he compares his life to that of the tree transplanted from other lands : Tu tambien, insigne palma, Eres aqui forastera, etc. Close by are the Hermitages of Val- paraiso. The Ermitas are very pic- turesquely situated, and enclosed by a low wall. The head hermit, or hermano mayor, has a larger house than the rest. The chapel is indifferent. Monastic and eremitical life in Cordova is of great antiquity, and, it is thought, was intro- duced by the celebrated Bishop Hosius, who had seen it in Egypt. These wretched hovels, now chiefly inhabited by laziness and ignorance, were once the refuge to which worn-out valour, deluded ambition, and often repentant crime, fled during the middle ages. Around are several lovely rides, through rose-gardens, pine-forests (Pinuspinea), chestnuts, and olives. The resales of Cordova were once the pride of the Moor, and sung by their poets. They culti- vated them with great care and inge- nuity. Ebn-el-Amam's * Hadji,' 'Abdu- el-Sair,' and other special treatises, are curious to consult on this matter. Another ride takes one to the ruins of a hieronymite convent, looking over the Campina, and lying amid orange - groves, evergreen oaks, and luxuriant olives. These latter are reckoned the best in Andalusia, though some prefer the Sevillanas. Lope de Rueda, in his charming 'entremes,' called 'Las Acei- tunas,' praises those of Cordova ; and Lope de Vega, in his ' Battle of the Cats,' 'La Gatomaquia,' says, 'Las sabrosas de Cordoba aceitunas.' The coscoja, or scarlet oak (from which the kermes proceeds), the madronos, or strawberry-tree, quejigo, the purple sauge, the straw-coloured gualda, woad blue, splendid nigela, will draw the at- tention of all botanists and lovers of flowers. Indeed, the mineralogist need not be idle ; immense coalfields, copper mines, etc., abound in the Sierra Al- magrera, besides very important quarries of porphyry, white and black marbles, etc. Nor will the sportsman lose here his time, for the sierra abounds with game ; there are 242 species of birds ; the lynx (Felix pardina) ; the melon (or Herpestes widringtonii), almost un- known to naturalists ; the grifo (Cfipas- tus barlatus) ; the wild boar, deer, chamois, hares, and especially rabbits, 122 CORUNA. Anglers will not find much to do in the Guadalquivir and affluents, which, nevertheless, produce tencas (tenches), barbos (barbel), and exquisite eels, (anguilas). About 2 m. K of the city lie the lead-smelting works of the Linares and Alamillos Company. The visitor is shown over with a permit from the city offices. EXCURSION TO MONTILLA. Interesting for its wine-cellars, as being the birthplace of El Gran Capitan, Gonsalvo de Cordoba, and for the palace of the Dukes of Medina -Celi. Fourth station on the Malaga line. Fares, ist cl., 2r. 400. ; 2d cl., i8r. 8oc. Montilla. A decent posada. This small and now unimportant city, pop. 14,654, is pictur- esquely situated on the two hills of El Castillo and Las Sileras, from which the view is exten- sive. Its churches are indifferent. In the highest part stood once the most glorious castle in all Andalusia, which was built by the Gran Capitan's father, Pedro Fern, de Cdrdoba, and demolished by order of Ferdinand the Catholic, to punish its owner, Marques del Arigo, for having imprisoned within its dungeons Fernan Gomez de Herra. The site is now occupied by some large granaries. This, the Roman Munda Betica, is now a dull, backward town, celebrated only for its exquisite Montilla, a peculiar, most flavoury sort of dry, light sherry, with much body, and which communicates aroma to all the wines it is mixed with, and especially sherry. The amontillado sherry indicates a class of wine which in flavour somewhat resembles that of Montilla. It is almost ignored elsewhere than here, but must some day rival sherry itself, and there are fortunes to be made here, were speculation and industry to venture establish- ments. There are several wine-growers, whose bodegas may be visited ; among them we shall mention Sr. Alvear, a gentleman of Anglo- Spanish origin. These wines have no other rivals in Spain, save, perhaps, those of Pago de Rio Frio, near Cabra, 3 leagues from Baena. Books of Reference. 1. 'Corografia de la Provincia y Obispado,' by Casas- Deza. First vol. only published. Cor- doba, Nogues y Mante, 1838. 2. 'Breve Tratado de Geografia de la Provincia de Cordoba/ by same ; Cordoba, Garcia, 1841. Both excellent works. 3. ' Indicador Cordobes,' etc., written especially for travellers by Las-Casas- Deza ; Cordoba, Rodriguez, 1857. Ex- cellent and accurate. 4. ' Resuerdos y Bellezas de Esparia,' by Pedro de Madrazo ; ' Guia de Cor- doba,' 1875; 'Manualito de Cor- doba. ' 5. ' Estudio Descriptivo de los Monu- mentos Arabes de Granada, Sevilla y Cordoba,' con grabados y pianos, Rafael Contreras, Madrid, 1883. A careful and valuable work. CORUNA (LA). LA CORTINA (English Corunna) is the capital of the province of the same name ; suffragan of Santiago. Popula- tion about 42,000. Capitania-General Galicia. Koutes and Conveyances. 1. From Madrid in 30 hours; dis- tance, 837 kil. Fares, 1st cl., Pes. 82.45; 2d cl., 61.85; 3d cl., 37.10. Only one train per day ; one of the most comfortable lines in Spain. Scenery fine. Buffets at Avila, Medina del Campo, Yalladolid, Yenta de Banos, Leon, Monforfee and Lugo. CORUSA ROUTES, ETC. 123 ROUTE (to Leon, p. 218). Orbigo. The bridge over the Orbigo was, on the 10th July 1434, the site of the pas 1'armes called El Paso Honroso, per- formed by Don Suero de Quinones, when he challenged and fought during ten days all knights who passed on their way to the grand jubilee at Santiago ; and this he did in order to be entitled to remove an iron link which he wore round his neck every Thursday in token of his captivity to the lady of his love. 177 lances were split, seventy-eight knights having accepted the challenge, and, though called a gentle pass, one knight was killed and eleven wounded ; but Don Suero proved victorious, and the link was removed by heralds amid great pomp and ceremony. His sword is at the Madrid armoury, No. 1917. The country is flat and most unin- teresting, glaring and dusty in summer, and wind-blown in the wintry months. Astorga (Prov. of Leon). Bishop's see, 4803 inhab. Fonda del Norte. This very ancient city, the Asturica Augusta, of Pliny, was an important centre of communication in the time of the Romans, and four vice diverged, leading to Braga, Zaragoza, Tarragona, and to Aquitaine, across the Pyrenees. Its walls, of Roman work, were re- spected by Witiza, an exception which he extended only to Leon and Toledo. They still subsist in all their picturesque- ness and strength, linked here and there by massive cubos, and forming a pro- longed oblong square, extending from E. to W., and following the level of the ground. On the E. extremity, several Roman sarcophagi are embedded in them. The part played by this city in the annals of Spain is very second-rate. It fell a prey to Moussa's soldiers, was recovered by Alfonso I., rebuilt and peopled again by Ordono II. with the inhabitants of the Vierzo, then taken by Al-Manssour, etc. Dur- ing the Peninsular war it offered a heroic resistance first to Loison (1810), and next to Junot, who was obliged to retire, but subsequently entered, a capi- tulation being offered. Its capabilities of resistance, were, however, scanty, and the surrender excusable. Astorga is the capital of La Maragateria, a dis- trict of some four leagues square, situ ated between the Picos of El Teleno and Foncebadon, to S.W. of Astorga, and exclusively peopled by the honest, active, and interesting race of Maragatos (Mauri Capti), who are descendants, it is supposed, from the Moors, whose wide breeches and part of their costume they have preserved. The principal sight here is The Cathedral. The see of Astorga is as old as 347, when its bishop, Domi- tian, was present at the Council of Sardes. The cathedral dates 1 471, and, owing to several repairs, has been modernised, and presents a medley of Gothic, churrigueresque, and plater- esque. The interior is divided into three naves, the lateral ones being very nar- row and lower than the central. It is 58 metres long by 23 wide. The stalls of the choir are elaborately carved in imitation of the early period of Gothic ; they date 1551, and are the work of Tomas and Roherto. The lower row consists of busts of saints of Old Testa- ment ; it is inferior to the upper row, in which admire the male saints on the right, and female saints on the left, according to etiquette, all of the New Testament. Some of the stained glass is good, but not early. The trascoro was churriguerised in 1732. The reja and pulpit are fine, and date 1622, by Ldzaro Azcain, of Bilbao. * The finest thing here is the retablo mayor, the mas- terpiece of Gaspar de Becerra, 1569, and for which the chapter paid 41,000 ducats. It is of pentagonal shape, each 124 CORUNA ROUTES, ETC. of the five compartments consisting of three tiers ; the centre of the principal tier is occupied by a tabernacle adorned with figures, and under a canopy sup- ported by two angels ; that of the se- cond represents the Assumption of the Virgin, who is seated on a throne formed by cherubs ; that of the third is her coronation. This grand, simple, and beautiful sculptured poem is crowned with groups representing the Passion. The relievos represent the different episodes of the Virgin's life, and are of the three orders. Observe and admire the execution, draperies, attitudes, and expression ; the grouping and general composition are forcible and classical. The cloisters were modernised, and not ineffectively, by Gaspar Lopez, end of 18th century ; the sacristy is of 1772. The remaining churches at Astorga are indifferent. The agimeces and early Gothic of San Francisco may be looked at. On the site of the ruined castle stood once the proud Palacio of the Marqueses de Astorga. The ruins exhibit good specimens of medi- aeval military architecture. Observe its cubos and buttresses, and the osorio motto, Do nuevo lugar posieron Moverla jamas podieron ; with a rope and shield, all very pictur- esque. The streets are ill -paved ; all is back- ward and desolate. The Paseo Nuevo is pretty. Bembibre. 586 inhab., situated on the confluence of the Nocedaand Baeza. Villa/franca del Vierzo. This all tourists who intend to make an ex- cursion into the Vierzo will make their head - quarters ; pop. 3800; a decent posada (La Nueva). Lugo. Pop. 21,298 ; capital of pro- vince of same name ; bishop's see ; on the Miho. Fondas Mendez Nunez, Espagnol. The best is indifferent. The Lucus Augusti of the Romans, who j frequented its sulphur baths on the ! Mino, and of which some remains can be seen, as well as a dyke. The walls are very interesting, 30 ft. to 40 ft. high, and about 20 ft. thick, flanked by cubos, formerly eighty-five in number. The ramparts are now the paseo, and from them the view is pleasant and ex- tensive. The streets are clean. The Plaza Mayor, with arcades on one side, is the rendezvous of local types Mara- gotas and arrieros. The Library del Obispado contains some 7000 volumes, proceeding from suppressed convents. The only interesting edifice here is The Cathedral. It dates 1129, when it was built by Maestro Raymundo, whose contract with the Chapter is dated that same year. It was finished 1177. The exterior has been modernised, as well as the incongruous towers and cloisters, of which only two lateral doors retain the former style. The interior consists of three naves, well lighted up, with low arches, and a gallery above. The Silleria of 1624 is a good sample of the gallego sculptor, Francisco de Moure. This cathedral shares with San Isidore of Leon the privilege of having the consecrated host permanently de manifesto. The N. doorway is early and interesting ; within a vesica in the tympanum is a figure of Our Lord, and below is, as a pendant, the Last Supper. The high altar is modern and indifferent. Be- hind is a chapel dedicated to Our Lady of the Large Eyes ! Ecclesiologists may visit the conventual churches of Los Capuchinos and Sto. Domingo ; they are 14th century buildings, and though partly modernised, and the former de- secrated, still contain well-preserved details. The mineral spring is about 10 min. walk from the town. Its temperaturp CORUftA. 125 is 36 Cent., and it is most efficacious in nervous complaints, diseases of the skin, etc. General Moore, in his retreat on Coruna, halted here (Jan. 6, 1809), and gave his worn-out troops some days of rest. Soult, who had been sent in his pursuit, came up soon after, and hesitated to accept the battle presented by the English. Ignorant of the state and numbers of the enemy, the French general adopted a defensive line, and lost time in partial attacks and manoeu- vring. On the 9th the British forces retired in good order, and fell back on La Coruna, unmolested by the French, who were for some time unaware of the retreat of an army which they could so easily have annihilated, had they, with their forces and fresh troops, attacked it at once, and boldly. Betanzos. Prov. of Coruna ; 7919 inhab. Near the rivers Mendo and Mandeu. 2. From Santiago, 2 diligences daily. Itinerary. Leagues. Santiago to Siqueiro . . 2 Leira . . . . 2^ Corufia 5 9* 3. From Ferrol (see at end of Coruna, Excursion to Ferrol). Steamers. 4. From Bayonne in about 40 hrs. ; from Vigo in 16 hrs. ; from Gijon in 18 hrs. ; from Santander ; also from Liverpool, Southampton, Plymouth, London, Havre and Marseilles. For all these and other routes see advertise- ments in time-bills and papers and wall placards. The coasting vessels are very slow and uncomfortable, while the larger steamers such as those of the Royal Mail (calling only on their outward passage), the Anglo-Dominion Company, and the Internationale are exceedingly uncertain. CORTLfrA. Inns. : Fonda de Paris, Calle San Andres ; Fonda Ferro-Carrilana, Calle Real. Both good. The coaches for Santiago start from the latter. Cafe. El Suizo, Calle Real. Post Office. Plaza Nueva de Maria Pita. Telegraph Office. Calle Luchana, adjoining the theatre. H.B.M. Consul. &. H. Walker, Esq. United States. Senor Carricarte. Bankers. T. F. Barrie and Co., cor- respondents for several English banks. Casinos. Two, both good. Casino Conines and the Tertulia de Confianza. Coruna is the chief seaport of Galicia, and rival of Vigo. Her trade, however, after many fluctuations, shows a decided falling off. The total imports for the year 1887 were of the value of 99,886,169 pesetas; the total exports 9,974,329 pesetas. The number of British trad- ing ships entering the port in 1887 was 249, of a total tonnage of 52,817 tons. The number of Spanish vessels in the foreign trade entering the port was 228, with a tonnage of 278,865 tons, and in the coasting trade 1392, with a tonnage of 218,308 tons. It lies half-way between Capes Ortegal and Finisterre, in a situation most favourable to trade. The bay is spacious and most secure, ships being able to enter it at all times and in all weather. The port itself is defended by the Castillo de San Anton and that of San Diego, and the roadstead by Castillo de Sta. Cruz (eight guns) and battery de la Oza. The climate is delicious, and can be strongly recom- mended to invalids. The mortality is 1.32. The sea-bathing is first-rate. Living is good and very cheap. Fruit 126 CORUftA. and excellent fish abound. Indeed, anglers can make this their head- quarters, and scour the trout - streams which flow into the bay ; the best being the Lamia, Eo, Turia, and Allones. A little roughing -it is still necessary inland, but matters have greatly improved in that respect. It must be borne in mind, too, here as in in all the north-west, that, with the enhanced means of communication now available, the old uncertain stoppages in out-of-the-way spots may be avoided. The city is divided into two very different portions the upper, alia, por- tion and a lower one, baja, called Pes- caderia, and which, once but a refuge of fishermen, has gradually outstripped the former and older part, and is im- proving and prosperous. The Calle Real and Calle Espoz y Mina are broad, handsome, and much frequented. La Marina is the evening summer paseo, and a most charming one it is. Englishmen will not fail to visit the Jardin de San Carlos, in the centre of which stands the tomb of General Moore, with the inscription ; * Joanes Moore. Exercitus Britannic! Dux. Praelio occisus A.D. 1809.' The Paseo de Sta. Margarita commands extensive views on the Bay del Orzan and Torre de Hercules, on the site of a Phoenician pharos, which rises 1 m. N.W. of the town, and was repaired by order of Trajan. The present one has been con- siderably improved, is 393 ft. high, and can be seen at a distance of 12 m. There is a small theatre (Teatro Nuevo) ; a large tobacco manufactory, established 1808, which turns out some 898,000 Ibs. annually, employs 3000 women, and is worth a visit. The public edifices are most indifferent. The churches are: Santiago, in the upper town, of the llth century ; observe the S. door, the apse and pulpit. The Colegiata, Gothic (1256), but with a good Byzantine W. porch, and a lofty tower. Convent of Sta. Barbara, a fine basso-relievo of 15th century, over a lateral door. Con- vent of San Francisco, where Philip II. lodged when he came here to embark for England, 1551, and now turned into a presidio; and in the San Jorge, an old Jesuit church, some pictures (An- nunciation and Purgatory) of Peter Vanderlaken. Historical Notice. La Coruna, for- merly called La Cruna (corona), and Groyne by the English, is said to have been founded by the Phoenicians, and was taken by the Romans, A.U.C. 693. Here, July 26, 1386, John of Gaunt landed, to claim the crown of Castile in right of his wife, the daughter of Pedro el Cruel. Here, May 1588, the Invin- cible Armada was refitted. It was com- posed of 136 ships (59,120 tons), armed with 3165 guns, and manned by 8252 sailors, 2000 volunteers, 2088 galley- slaves, 20,000 veteran troops, and ac- companied, besides, by 290 monks, priests, and familiars, sent to convert the English people, and also attend to the spiritual want of the army ; but the Drakes, Frobishers, and Hawkinses made great havoc among the Spaniards, and completed the work of destruction which the elements had begun. No doubt can be entertained but that this expedition was, and may be again, a great lesson to England, for had not the Spaniards lost time in waiting for the Duke of Parma's flotilla, the invading army would have landed undisturbed on the 7th August, and, under the most favourable circumstances of sea and weather, would have marched on to London, and easily have destroyed the capital of the hated ' Inglesa ; ' for the so-often-repeated 'Bellona-like' ap- pearance of the Queen, her address to the troops, etc., was not till eleven days afterwards, and on the 5th no army, not even the body-guard of the Queen, had CORUSA. 127 been assembled ; and Leicester, with only 4000 men to oppose to 20,000, was but just commencing his entrenched camp at Tilbury. Philip II., on learn- ing the fate of that expedition, which had been framed with so much care and at so great an expense, betrayed as little concern as he did again when the victory of Lepanto was announced to him at the Escorial. Both events were but the will of God, and on both occasions of joy and sorrow his great Christian soul checked his pride, and made them weigh equally before God. La Coruna fell a prey to Drake and Norris, April 20, 1589 ; and here again was fought the battle of La Coruna, Jan. 16, 1809, between Sir John Moore, at the head of 14,300 men, and Soult, who commanded 20,000. The British infantry occupied the inferior range of the Elvira hills. The right, formed by Baird's division, approached the enemy, while the centre and left were of necessity withheld in such a manner that the French battery on the rocks raked the whole of the line. General Hope's division, crossing the main road, prolonged the line of the right's wing. The reserve was drawn up near Airis, in the rear of the centre. General Eraser's division remained on the heights immediately before the gates of the city. The action was hard. General Baird defeated Foy at Elvira, and Paget re- pulsed La Houssaye ; and had General Fraser's division been brought into action towards night, and when the French were already falling back in confusion, they would have been most signally defeated ; but Sir John Moore was wounded, and so was General Baird ; and Sir John Hope, who now com- manded the forces, pursued the original plan of embarking during the nighty which operation took place in the most admirable order, so that when the French approached the town, which the inhabitants faithfully maintained foi some hours, the English, to their sur- prise, were seen sailing lustily on the main. The English lost about 800 men, and the French some 3000. This battle and retreat have been the cause of much and often angry controversy. Setting aside the opinions of the highest English military authorities, all favour- able to Moore, we shall only quote what his opponent, Marshal Soult, has said of him, 'Ses dispositions furent toujours les plus convenables aux cir- constances, et en profitant habilement des avantages que les locality's pouvaient lui fournir pour seconder sa valeur, il in'opposa partout la resistance la plus energique et la mieux calculee ; c'est ainsi qu'il trouva une mort glorieuse devant La Corogne au milieu d'un com- bat qui doit honorer son souvenir.' Whilst being carried to his lodgings, the gallant wounded soldier used to ask at intervals if the French were beaten, and being told they were, he expressed a great satisfaction. 'His countenance continued firm, and his thoughts clear ; once only, when he spoke of his mother, he became agi- tated.' His last words were, *I hope the people of England will be satisfied. I hope my country will to-day do me justice.' ' The battle was scarcely ended when his corpse, wrapped in a military cloak, was interred by the officers of his staff in the citadel of Coruna.' Napier's History of the Peninsular War, vol. i. Excursion to El Ferrol. A. By land, 33 m. Rail as far as Betanzos. A charming ride, amid orange groves, through Puentedeuma, on the left bank of the Euma, with a fine bridge. Cape Prior is seen in the distance on the left, standing N. W. of Ferrol and next Cape Priorino, which form the entrance to the port. Follow up the beach to the city. 128 ESCORIAL. B. By sea. A steamer leaves twice a -day ; the passage is 1 ^ hr. Ferrol Pop. about 26,000. (Prov. of Coruna.) Cadiz, Cartagena, and Ferrol are the three great naval depart- ments into which Spain is divided, which are themselves subdivided into eleven tercios, then provincias, and lastly, distritos maritimos. The present departamento comprises all the ports and arsenals of northern Spain. Inn: Fonda Suiza, Calle Real. El Ferrol, the name of which is derived from, el farol, the lighthouse, was a mere fishing village before 1752, when its excellent port and situation drew the attention of Government. Very extensive dockyards (darsenas) were built, which exceed forty acres in extent. The town itself is divided into three parts the old, the new, and the esteiro. It is strongly fortified, and considered impregnable ; notwithstand- ing which, it ought and would have been taken in August 1800, by Ad- miral Warren and General Pulteney, had they not lost time and good weather in obtaining possession of minor and unimportant points, such as Grana and Fort San Felipe. It was taken by Soult in ISO 9, after six days' blockade ; and the same year Hothani took possession of it with a mere hand- ful of men. The town is slowly im- proving, but would do so much more rapidly if the Government made it a trading port, and not exclusively mili- tary. The dockyards are also gradually recovering from their former desolation and absence of material, and the most recent improvements introduced in ship-building by England and France are being adopted with intelligence and activity. Admittance to visit the darsenas, astilleros, etc., is to be easily obtained on application to the authorities. They are entered at Puerta del Parque, leaving to the right the Salas de las Armas. The dockyard is divided into a smaller outward and a larger inward portion. Behind are the dwellings of the opera- tives, and in the N. angle are the found- ries, rope-walks, and magazines. Visit the gradas de construccion or ship-slips, the esteiro, the timber dep6ts of Carran-- za, Carragon, etc. There is a pretty Alameda and Fuente del Dique (water here is delicious), a well-proportioned church of San Julian, and some well-conducted naval estab- lishments, such as the Hospital, Bar- racks, de Guardas Marinas, etc. Books of Reference. 1. * Historia y descripcion de la C. de la Coruna,' by Vedia and Goossens ; Coruna, Puga, 1845. Very well written, and abound- ing in curious and useful information. 2. Ferrol. ' Historia y Descripcion' ; Arostegui. 3. The novels of Dona E. Pardo de Bazan ; also the ' Cancionero Gallego, ' by Perez Ballesteros, in the Biblioteca de Tradiciones Populares. ESCORIAL. Prov. of Madrid, diocese of Toledo, pop. 1726, including both villages. Route and Conv. It will be advis- able to visit the Escorial whilst at Madrid. There are six trains a day, two in the morning, four in the after- noon, besides extra ones on holidays ; distance, 51 kil. ; fares, 1st cl., 23r. 60c. ; 2d cl., llr. Time, 1 hr. Omnibuses are found in attendance at the station, which convey travellers to the village of Escorial in 20 min. for 2r. a head, and 2r. large trunks, Ir. smaller, and Jr. for hat-boxes, etc. CHURCH. 1. Principal entrance and portico. 2. Court of tne kings (Patio de los reyes). 3. Vestibule of the church. 4. Choir of the seminarists. 6. Centre of the church and projec- tion of the dome. 6. Greater chapel. 7. High altar. 8. Chapel of St John. 9. Chapel of St Michael. 10. Chapel of St Maurice. 11 Chapel of the Rosary. 12. Tomb of Louisa Carlota. 13 Chapel of the Patrocinio. 14. Chapel of the Cristo de la buena rnuerte. 15. Chapel of the Eleven Thousand Virgins. 16. Former Chapel of the Patrocinio. 17. Sacristy. OF TI PALACE. 18. Principal court of the palace. 19, Ladies' tower. 20 Court of the masks. 21. Apartments of the royal children. 22. Royal oratory. 23. Oratory where Philip IL died. SEMINARY 24. Entrance to seminary. 25. Classrooms. 26. Old philosophical hall. 27. Old theological hall. 28. Chamber of secrets. 29. Old refectory. 30. Entrance to the college. 31. College yard. CONVENT 32 Clock tower. 33. Principal cloister. 34. Court of the evangelists. 35. Prior's cell. 36. Archives. 37. Old church. 38. Visitors' hall. 39. Manuscript library. 40. Convent refectory. ESCOKIAL ESCORIAL -MONASTERY. 129 Inns. There has been a great change for the better in this respect. La Miranda is a really good hotel. La Rosa fair. Every attention. Charges moderate. Good cafe and cercle at the Miranda. A cicerone is no longer a necessary evil, as each portion of the building is shown by an intelligent official. N.B. The Pantheon is at present (1889) dosed for alteration and repairs. Inquiry should be made. One day will hardly suffice to allow more than a hurried view, although many devote only that time to it. The hours for visiting the different portions of the Escorial are Church and Pantheon Open from 10 A.M. to 12 P.M., and from 2 P.M. to 4 P.M. ; Palace shown about 1 P.M. The usual order is, Church and Pantheon, Palace and Casita. General Description. There are two small villages close to each other which bear the name of El Escorial, derived from the scorise of iron, vestiges from former iron-mines. They are dis- tinguished by Escorial de Abajo and that of Arriba, which latter comprises several miserable granite-built houses and half-ruined edifices, used in other times as cavalry -barracks, etc. The Escorial is a sitio real, or royal residence, and is called from that, and from the Palace and Monastery, 'San Lorenzo el Real.' There is still a season or temporada during the summer months, and were there better hotels and some comforts, its pinares and chestnut woods would be a great resource to the parched- up Madrilenos ; and if the archives of the kingdom could be removed hither from out-of-the-way Simancas, many advantages would be gained by travel- lers, nacionales, the villagers themselves, and not a little for the edifices, which nre sadly neglected, The Sights are, the Monastery, comprising the Church, Pantheon, Library, and the Palace ; the Casita del Principe ; the more indifferent Silla de Felipe //., La Fresneda, etc. Monastery. This stupendous edi- fice a mountain of granite shaped into a palace, a church, and a convent, the leviathan of architecture is reckoned by Spaniards as the eighth marvel of the world. It nevertheless belongs to that class of the oppressive sublime and gigantic, which, whether in nature or art, awes or strikes at first, and then very soon only causes ennui. To under- stand the Escorial it is necessary to have studied deeply and most impartially the character and genius of its founder ; for this is not a monument which is the expression of an age or a people, but bears the stamp of a man of a special train of thought and feeling. Philip II. must be judged not in the light of the 19th, but in that of the 16th cen- tury. There is no doubt that the Esco- rial existed already, ideally, in the mind of his grandmother, Crazy Jane, whose morbid devotion verged on in- sanity, and in Charles Y.'s early and constant desire to retire into seclusion, and his death in a convent. Spain must be in a manner explained by the East, and never by the North, as it too often is. And thus, after the fashion of the Eastern sultans, the Spanish kings have always sought the seclusion of their palaces, which their piety and the bur- den of sovereignty turned into convents. The Monastery of the Escorial is the expression of Philip's character, never perfectly understood by historians. Suf- fice it, for the present, to observe that as he was the proudest among kings, and the most devout amongst monks, it was not all his fault if he built convents that look like palaces, and palaces that were also convents. The Escorial was built in compliance with the desire 130 ESCORT AL MONASTERY, often expressed by Charles V. to Philip, to have a burial-house for him and his descendants, and as a solemn act of gratitude to his patron saint, St. Law- rence, to whose protection he ascribed the victory of San Quintin, which hap- pened on that saint's very day (Aug. 10, 1557). It was not a panic -inspired vow, as has so often been repeated, made during the action, nor was there any church of St. Laurent destroyed during the action. The battle was won by Philibert of Savoy, and Philip II. arrived only four days after the victory. The founder's ' Carta de Dotation, ' in Cabrera's ' Vida de Felipe II.,' written and signed by Philip, contains all his reasons for founding the Escorial. It runs thus : 'In acknowledgement of the many and great blessings which it has pleased God to heap on us and continue to us daily, and, inasmuch as He has been pleased to direct and guide our deeds and acts to his Holy service, and in maintenance and defence of His holy faith and religion, and of justice and peace within our realms ; considering, likewise, what the emperor and king, my lord and father, in a codicil which he lately made, committed to our care, and charged us with, respecting his tomb, the spot and place where his body and that of the empress and queen, my lady and mother, should be placed ; it being just and meet that their bodies should be most duly hon- oured with a befitting burial-ground, and that for their souls be said continu- ally, masses, prayers, anniversaries, and other holy records, and because we have, besides, determined that when- ever it may please God to take us away to Him, our body should rest in the same place and spot near theirs . . . for all these reasons we found and erect the Monastery of St. Lorenzo el Real, near the town of El Escorial, in the diocese and archbishopric of Toledo, the which we dedicate in the name oi the Blessed St. Lawrence, on account of the special devotion which, as we have said, we pray to this glorious saint, and in memory of the favour and victories which on his day we received from God. Moreover, we found it for the order of St. Jerome, on account of our special affection and respect for this order, and that which was also bestowed upon it by the emperor and king, my father. ' For two years he was looking for some spot, in the vicinity of Madrid, which might be favourable to his pur- pose, and at last fixed on the wild, rocky, and secluded pine-clad slopes of the Guadarrama the very frame for such a picture. Juan Bautista de To- ledo was called from Naples, and en- trusted with the design. The first stone was laid on April 23, 1565, and on August 20 the church was begun. The real designer was Philip himself, who was a man of great and pure taste, an enlightened and generous patron of artists. He used to come frequently from Madrid to watch the progress of his creation from the summit of a hill close by, and suggested changes, and advised different details. The erection of this, the largest and first great edi- fice in Spain into which the Graeco- Roman element was cast, constituted an important epoch in the history of Spanish art. Its characteristics are : vast proportions, admirable harmony and unity of design, simplicity, mas- siveness, grandeur. Whatever defects or qualities are noticeable must be as- cribed to Philip, who influenced the architect's decision ; but it must never be forgotten what its object was, the means employed to attain it, and the general effect attending the execution. In 1567 Toledo died, and his first ayu- dante, Juan de Herrera, succeeded him. This other great man mnde KSCORIAL CHURCH. 131 several happy alterations, but, on the whole, followed the original designs. He was ably aided by Fray Antonio de Villacastin, and the building rapidly advancing, was completed 13th Sept. 1584, twenty-one years after it had been begun, and at the then enormous cost of about 660,000. The edifice itself that is, without the offices, etc. is a rectangular parallelo- gram, of 744 ft. (Span.) long, N. to S., and 580 ft. E. to W. The square covers 3002 ft., and a surface ground of 500, 000 ft. It is of the Doric order, and made entirely of Berroquena stone and of granite, of which there are quar- ries in the vicinity. The distribution is thus : The quadrangles were divided into three parts from E. to "W. ; that in the middle formed the church, por- tico, and principal entrance ; that towards the S. was made into five cloisters ; the part to the N. was di- vided into two portions, one allotted to the habitation of ladies and gentlemen of the household, and the other to the convent and offices. On the E. side Toledo drew forth and out from the line another square for the palace, which also comprised the high chapel of the church, so that tribunes should be made into it from the royal apart- ments. Thus the colossal edifice was divided ; from its angles and centre spring eight towers, about 200 ft. high, and it is crowned by the cupola or cimborio of the church. The fagades are majestic, but some- what, as a French author says, ' of an awful simplicity/ The western one is the finest, 60 ft. high and 740 ft. long. It has two towers at the angles, and three noble entrances. The eastern facade has nothing to characterise it except the back of the high church and its front. The S. fa9ade is the most denuded, and looks not a little like a huge poor-house or barracks ; and bar- racks they were, indeed, for 300 Jeroni- mites, a portion of the vast army of monks, the sturdy soldiers of the faith, who fought and won the battle of the mind against barbarism, and handed down the knowledge and the practice of Christianity. The N. side has three spacious entrances, leading to the Cole- gio and Palace. Everything in the edifice is on a colossal scale. Suffice it to state that there are 16 courts, 40 altars, 1111 windows outside, 1562 inside ; 1200 doors, 15 cloisters, 86 staircases, 3000 ft. of fresco -painting, 89 fountains, and about 32 leagues of surface to walk upon. It is an error to suppose that the strong-minded archi- tects ever intended to represent in its general shape a reversed gridiron, the instrument of St. Lorenzo's martyrdom it is purely imaginative. The roofs are covered with slates and lead. Principal Entrance is the W. one. Over the portico are the libraries. Enter now the Patio de los Reyes. Is 230 ft. long by 136 ft. wide so called from six colossal statues representing the six kings of the house of David ; indiffer- ently executed by Monegro in granite, with portions in white marble and crowns and insignia in gilt bronze. That of the tutelar saint, placed over the portal, is also by the same. The Church (Templo) was begun in 1563 and finished in 1586. It is considered the masterpiece of Herrera, and the triumph of the Grseco-Roman applied to Christian temples. It is 320 ft. long, 230 ft. wide, and 320 ft. high to the top of the cupola. It is all granite and of the Doric style ; the greatest simplicity prevails, and ma- jesty, height, and vast proportions are its characteristics. The form is a square basilica, assuming the shape of a Greek cross. The roof rests on foui 132 ESCORIAL CHURCH. very massive square piers, which corre- spond to eight others placed in the walls. Over all these run twenty-four arches, forming six naves, so combined that three naves are seen from every part of the temple. The two principal naves form the Greek cross, and are 53 ft. wide and 113 ft. high. The Chapels and Altars. The first on the left, called De los Doctores, has five altars with pictures of saints by Alonso Sanchez Coello and two by Luis de Carbajal. The tomb and statue of the Infanta Dona Carlota are indifferent. In that of El Patrocinio are also several pictures of female saints by the same painters. See, besides, several others by Pelegrino Tibaldi, and by Luca Cangiagi, and Luis de Carbajal, who followed El Mudo's manner. No- tice especially all those by this latter (Juan Fernandez Navarette), who is to be sought for here ; admire his St. Philip and Santiago, St. Barnabas and St. Mathias on the last pier, Santiago and St. Andrew (signed and dated 1577), SS. Simon and Judas, SS. Bar- tholomew and Thomas, etc., all very fine, richly-coloured Titian -like, and powerfully rendered. The others are by Zuccharo, Gomez, and Sanchez Coello, who painted the following : SS. Paula and Monica, SS. Catherine and Ines, SS. Ambrosio and Gregorio, SS. Basilio and Atanasio, Geronimo an. I Augustin, the former as a cardinal and the latter as a bishop, looking at- tentively at a child who is filling a hole in the sands with water issuing from a shell (signed and dated 1580) ; SS. Paul and Anthony in the Wilderness fed by a crow (signed and dated 1582) ; SS. Lorenzo and Esteban, and dressed as deacons (signed and dated 1580) ; St. Vincent and St. George, etc. Observe here the small chapel on the gospel side of the high altar where lies the late Queen Mercedes. Also the gold cross presented by the British residents in Madrid. The pulpits, which replaced the portable one originally used, were the gift of Ferdinand VII. ; they are made of alabaster and the richest marbles, orna- mented with mezzo-relievo medallions, pillarets, etc. , in gilt bronze. They are sadly out of keeping with the other sober, quiet, simple portions of the church, and are of no artistic value in themselves, though exhibiting glorious specimens of the Spanish marbles. The Organs. There are two one upon either side of the nave. Origin- ally the work of the Flemish builder Maese Gil, they are said to have been some time very good. Now, however, they are hopelessly out of repair in fact can no longer be used. The vaulted roof, or boveda, was ori- ginally stuccoed white and dotted with blue stars. In the reign of Charles II. its compartments were painted al fresco by Giordano, happily surnamed Lucca Fa Presto, who is said to have finished all his work in the Escorial in seven months. There are eight compositions, representing subjects from Holy "Writ and allegorical. The composition is good, the execution hurried, yet faith- ful, and the colouring very fine, though somewhat tarnished by damp. The High Chapel is 70 ft. wide by 50 ft. long, and comprises the high altar and oratorios. In the centre rises a flight of red-stained steps^ steeper than was intended, but to afford space for a cupola under it for the pantheon, and that in this manner the wish of Philip might be accomplished, that mass should be daily said over the bodies of the kings. The altar is made of precious marbles and inlaid jasper, covered with a jasper stone of one whole piece. It stands isolated. At the sides are doors with jasper jambs, etc., and beautifully inlaid mahogany, which lead to the sagrario. On the back of the altar in ESCORIAL CHURCH. 133 the consecration stone of the church, which act was performed by Clement VIII. 's nuncio. The retablo is glorious, and the pictures deserve close inspec- tion, however difficult it he on account of the bad light and dark wood and jaspers. It is 93 ft. high and 94 ft. wide, of the four orders, and composed of red granite, precious jaspers, and gilt bronze. It is the masterpiece of the Milanese Giacomo Trezzo, who here em- ployed to perfection and great effect all the orders of classic architecture except the Tuscan. The tabernaculo was de- signed by Herrera and executed by Trezzo, who finished it in seven years. The pictures, of no great merit, are by Pellegrino Tibaldi (subjects, Nativity, Adoration, Martyrdom of St. Lorenzo), and the rest by Zuccharo. The ' Scourg- ing' is the best work of Zuccharo's at the Escorial, and not as dry, cold, and raw as his paintings always are. The statues are by Leon Leoni and his son Pompeio, 1588. The altar cost about 40,000. jSagrario. There are some indifferent frescoes by Tibaldi, and some very rich Spanish marbles and jaspers. The sag- rario constitutes the coulisses of the religious spectacle on great festivals offered to devout and sensual piety; and here from behind these screens, walls, and curtains, the sacristanes, those able scene-shifters, prepare the lights, incen- sories, place and remove the vases, and alternately draw, diminish, or change the curtains and many-coloured veils, placed before the window and calculated to mitigate or graduate the light, ac- cording to the nature of the festival. The relicario is one of the richest in Spain : much of the valuable matter, gold vases, ornaments, precious stones, etc., were carried away by General Houssaye and his troops ; they took the flesh and left the bones. However, these constitute the real value, and are gold and caviare to the vulgar. Amongst other butin de guerre was a statue called La Matrona or La Mesina, given by the inhabitants of Messina to Philip III., weighing 220 Ibs. silver, which held in her right hand a golden custodia weigh- ing 26 Ibs., besides a heavy crown with rubies and other precious stones, and, moreover, forty-seven of the richest vases. There are now about 7421 relics, amongst which are ten whole bodies, 144 heads, 306 whole arms and legs, etc. See the fine Area del Monumento, which formerly possessed twenty-six invalu- able Greek cameos, one of the real bars of San Lorenzo's gridiron, the femur of this saint with portions of his flesh roasted and broiled (tostado y asado), and one of his feet with a bit of coal between the toes, etc. Oratorios atid Entierros Eeales. On each side of the altar are placed the ora- torios, low chambers or tribunes of dark marble for the use of royal persons when they come to hear mass. That on the left w r as used by Philip II., and in a small and narrow room close to it he expired. Above, and about 12 ft. high, are placed the bronze gilt and painted effigies of the kings, all kneeling. On the right of the altar are five statues. The first is that of Charles V., kneeling on a cushion, and close to him are, to the right, the Empress Isabella, mother of Philip II. ; behind, his daughter the Empress Maria, and his sisters Eleonora and Maria. On the left of the altar are the statues of Philip II. ; on his right is his fourth wife, Anna, mother of Philip III. ; behind, his third wife, Isabella ; on the right of latter his first wife, Dona Maria of Portugal, mother of Don Carlos, and behind her is this prince, immortalised by Schiller, but who was, historically speaking, a poor imbecile much taken care of by his father. These statues are portraits, and very remark- able for tbe execution, likenesses, and 134 ESCORIAL CHURCH. details of embroidery ; observe also the plumage of the eagles, etc. They were all the work of Pompeio Leoni, who was paid for them about 15,000. The Latin inscriptions are by Arias Montano. Ante Sacristia. Indifferent ceiling, finely painted by Granello and Fabricio. The pictures are mostly copies from the Italian schools a Sibyl, the Prophet Isaiah, a Virgin and Child, etc. There are, however, one or two paintings worth looking at : a San Juan Crisos- tomo, by the Toledan Carvajal ; a San Juan de Dios, sketch or duplicate by Giordano ; an Adoration by the same ; and a San Geronimo ascribed to Rlbera. Belowthe pictures are some tables setting forth the manifold advantages, in the shape of indulgences, to be gained by visiting the church in an orthodox spirit. From this anteroom we pass into the Sacristia, a fine room 108 feet long and 32 feet wide. Note the arabesques of the frescoed ceiling, by Granello and Fabricio. Twenty -six of the finest paintings formerly here were removed to the Picture Gallery of Madrid, and some others have been put in the Salas Capitulares. The best of those remain- ing are the following : 63. St. Francis of Assisi, by Do- inenichino, El Greco. 64. St. Peter of Alcantara, by Zur- baran. 65. St. Francis of Assisi in the desert, by Zurbaran. 66. St. Paul, by Zurbaran. 71. A copy of Raphael's Trans- figuration. 76. St. Peter in Gaol, said to be a replica by Ribera. 77. The two St. Johns, ascribed to Grecco, are of his early style. 81. Jesus bearing the Cross, ascribed to Guido Reni. 83. St. Gerome, ascribed to Ribera. 85. Descent from the Cross, by Vero- 86. A Mystical Subject, by Tinto- retto. 88. Crucifixion, by Titian. 89. Mystical Subject, by Veronese. 90. St. Eugenio, Archbishop of To- ledo, by El Grecco. 92. San Onofre, by Ribera ; signed. 93. Magdalen Penitent, Tintoretto. 98. St. John in the Desert, Titian. 101. Virgin and St. Joseph "Watching the Child asleep, Veronese. 103. Burial of Christ, Ribera. The No. 84 is called La Santa Forma, placed at the S. end of the room. On the altar is kept the wafer which bled miraculously at Gorcum (Holland) in 1525, when it was trodden under foot by Zuinglian partisans. It was taken up, and after being some time at Prague and Vienna, was sent to Philip II. by the Emperor Rudolph II. in 1592. The large painting was first sketched byRizzi, and at his death taken up and modified by Claudio Coello, who, after seven years' labour, made it his masterpiece. Thesub- j ect is the pro cession and cerem ony which took place in this very sacristia in the presence of Charles II. All the heads are portraits ; the prior's, holding the custodia, is Santos, one of the earliest and best historians of the Escorial. Behind Charles are the Duke of Me- dinaceli, his prime minister, the Duke of Pastrana, etc. It is a very fine pic- ture, full of expressive vigour, excel- lent perspective, and forms a page of history worth volumes. It has been touched up in 1846, and well copied by Lopez for the Madrid Picture Gallery (No. 773). There are some fine ternos and other church stuffs, beautifully em- broidered, and exhibiting pictures from Holy Writ embroidered in silk. Spain was always celebrated for this kind of embroidery, and the bordaderas en oro of this day continue the good tradi- tions of that art, which originated in Ciudad Rodrigo. Many of the vest- ESCORIAL CHURCH. 135 inents, etc., in the Escorial were em- broidered after designs by Elmudo, Tibaldi, etc. There is one valued by Siguenza at 45,000. The Camarin was erected in 1692 by Olmo and Rici, or Rizzi. There is a glorious collection here of precious marbles, unrivalled anywhere else. There is a custodia containing above 10,000 precious stones, and which cost 5000 ; it is a present of Queen Isa- bella and the King Consort, made to the monastery in 1856. In the Capitulario is a fine old folio, written by the monk Martin de Pa- lencia, and containing eighteen fine miniatures by Andres de Leon, Sala- zar, and other great miniaturists of the time. The Choir. Visit first the ante-coros placed on the sides of the choir. The statue of San Lorenzo is an indifferent Roman statue sent from Rome, and accommodg to represent the Christian hero ; the four lunetos or divisions are painted by Giordano. In the other ante-coro is a St. Peter and St. Andrew, by El Mudo, and fresco ceilings, also by Giordano. Close to this the Libre- ria del Coro, where are kept the colos- sal choral books, some of them being two yards wide ; each leaf was made out of the skin of a calf. The Psalms of Maitines are by Cristobal Ramirez and others. The style of letter or writing is that called peones by the Span- ish monkish caligraphers, all very able hands, and the books date from the foundation of the Escorial. They were magnificently illuminated by Andres de Leon and his pupils, Julian de Fu- ente-el-Saz and Ambrosio de Salazar. See especially, and as specimens, the three Pasionarios and Oficio of the Apostle Santiago by Fuente-el-Saz, and the Beginning of the Mass on the Day of St. Simon and St. Judas, by Salazar. Though many are wanting, and others are torn, there are still fine specimens of monkish bookbinding by the Pa- rises and Pedro del Bosque. No. 128, A Christ Crucified, by Navarrete, of little value, and a curious diptych by Bosch, representing the Delights of this World and Punishment of the Wicked. The choir is placed at the entrance of the church, and continues the central nave, and though 30 ft. above the pave- ment, is still low enough to allow spec- tators to follow the mass with ease. It is large and brightly lighted ; there are two series or rows of stalls, both be- longing to the Corinthian order, and designed by Herrera himself, and made out of ebony, cedar, box, and other choice sorts of wood ; they are simple and unadorned, but very elegant and well carved, especially the prior's stall. To the S., and close to a small concealed door, is the stall which was used by Philip II. ; and here he was kneeling, absorbed in fervent prayer, when through that small door a messenger glided in bearing the news of the vic- tory of Lepanto ; but, as when he re- ceived the tidings of the destruction of the Armada, his countenance remained impassible, and he resumed his in- terrupted prayers. The lateral fres- coes by Romulus Cincinato, represent subjects from life of the tutelar and of St. Gerome, founder of the order, to whose care the monastery was entrusted by Philip, as they were in great fa- vour with him, and had been so also with Charles Y. at Yuste. The other frescoes are by Luqueto ; the ceiling is also by him, and represents the Bliss of Heaven ; in a corner is the portrait of Father Villacastin, one of the Escorial architects, and behind it the painter introduced his own ; upon observing which, Siguenza said that he was glad to see that the artist (whose way of living was not very or- thodox) had placed himself in Paradise 13C ESCORIAL CHURCH. beforehand, for he was much afraid that he was in so great a hurry to make money that this could never become a reality. The crystal chandelier, though much ill-treated by the French, is a fine specimen, made at Milan, and given by Charles II. The fadstol (lectern) is a present from Charles II. The eagle, with spread wings, forming it, carries in its beak the gridiron, emblematic of the tutelar's martyrdom. It is classical in style, but indifferent in execution. The gem of this choir is the beautiful Car- rara marble crucifix. It was made by Cellini, and is signed * Benvenutus Ze- linus Civis Florentinus faciebat, 1562.' The great Florentine carved it for his lord and master, the Duke of Tuscany, who gave it to Philip II. The artist prized it much, and in his autobio- graphy he says : ' Although I have made several marble statues, I shall only mention one, from its being of a kind most difficult for art to render that is dead bodies ; I speak of the image of Our Lord Crucified, for which I studied a great deal, working upon it with the diligence and love that so precious a simulacre deserves, and also because I knew myself to be the first who ever executed crucifixes in marble. ' Pantheon. Descend a few steps, which are, as well as the walls, of precious marbles. On the second land- ing the door to right leads to sacristia of the Pantheon, and that on left to Pantheon de los Infantes. Philip II. built a plain vault, but Philip III. and Philip IV., who did not inherit the ideas of simplicity of their sire, built these theatrical show-rooms this al- most ironical gilding of bones, and most pagan-like series of urns. There is the icy blast of death that chills one's very "bones, sombre darkness, something oppressive and repulsive amid these shining marbles and gilt, bronze ; nothing of the feelings that fill the soul and mind in the presence of the truly Christian, yet regal and beautiful tombs in mediaeval cathedrals, with their sculptured effigies praying or asleep. This pantheon (the very name is pagan) was completed in 1654. Over the portal is the history of its erection, ' Locus sacer mortalibus exuviis, ' etc. At the sides are Roman statues, alle- gorical. One is Nature, and the other represents Hope, with the words, ' Natura occidit, ' * Exaltat Spes. ' The Pantheon itself is some 46 ft. diameter, and 38 ft. high. The cupola is low, owing to its being placed just under the steps leading to the high altar. It is of the Composite order, after designs by Marquis Crescenci. It is entirely made of marbles from Tortosa and Biscay, and jasper from Toledo, etc. The altar is also made of the same mate- rial, heightened here and there, as else- where too, by gilt bronze ornaments, and an indifferent basso-relievo, repre- senting the Burial of Christ, by two Hieronymite monks. All round the octagonal chamber are placed in rows, within niches, twenty- six marble urns, identically sized, and not unlike an anatomical collection. The kings are placed on the right of altar, and queens on left, and none save kings and mothers of kings are buried here, all according to etiquette and strict classification, worthy of any French bureau. There are wanting Philip V., Ferdinand VI., and their queens, who are buried at La Granja and Madrid. Upon one of the urns Maria Louisa, wife of Philip, wrote her own name with scissors. When Queen Isabella comes to the Escorial, she makes it a point to hear midnight masses in the Pantheon ; it is also what Ferdinand VII. liked to do, as well as his mother. KSCORIAL CONVENT. 137 In the Infantes Pantheon, disgustingly called * El Pudridero, ' pudren, are placed in most familiar confusion the bones of all the Princes and Queens of Spain whose sons did not reign ex- cept the late Queen Mercedes. Here lie Isabelle de Valois and Maria of Portu- gal, close to the ill-fated Don Carlos, son of Philip ; the son of Charles V. , Don Juan of Austria, who entreated to be buried here, * as the fittest re- ward for his services' (his body was brought from Namur, May 1579) ; Louis XIV.'s natural son, the Due de Vend6me, etc. "We understand there is some talk of reforming this portion of the Pantheon. The Convent. Enter from the ves- tibule of church into Sala de Secretos, so called, because even whispers may be heard from any angle, owing to the form of the ceiling. Claustro Principal Bajo. All of granite, except the marble pavement ; its style Doric. This lower cloister is a square of 212 ft. each side. The frescoes with the subjects from life of Christ are by Tibaldi, or after his designs, but executed by other artists. The E. side is all by him, but none deserve attention, and they have, moreover, been wretchedly restored by Polero, Marin, Argandolla, & Co. Patio de los Evangelistas. 166 ft. each side of the square, and 60 ft. high. There are some indifferent statues of the Apostles, by Monegro. The Sala de Capitulos, or Chapter- house. Three rooms, an antechamber and the Salas Vicarial and Prioral. In the antechamber are no paintings worthy of note, but in the other two rooms are collected some of the finest pictures yet left in the Escorial. Note especially : In the Sala Vicarial, 68. Jacob watching Laban's Flocks, Ribera. 72. Christ Washing the Apostles' Feet, Tintoretto. This picture was painted for the Church of Santa Mar- cella, at Venice, and belonged to Charles I. of England, at whose sale Philip IV.'s ambassador, Cardenas, purchased it for 250. 337. The Satyr Marsyas, Giordano. Very fine. 339. Nativity and Adoration, by Ri- bera ; signed ' Giuseppe de Ribera, Espanol Valenciano, de la Ciudad de Jativa, Academico, Romano. F. 1640.' 341. The Sons of Jacob, by Velaz- quez ; painted by him at Rome, and during his first journey thither, and sent to Spain, together with Vulcan's Forge (Mad. P. Gal., No. 195), and his own portrait for Pacheco. 343. Nativity, by Ribera ; 344, 347, 348,by Giordano. The latter Titian esque. 349. St. Gerome Penitent, by Ribera (signed). 476. The Martyrdom of Santiago, El Mudo ; in the background, Battle of Clavijo (signed and dated 1571). The executioner's face is a portrait of a blacksmith, a paisano of the painter's. 478 and 479. An Annunciation and an Adoration of the Shepherds, Tin- toretto. Both painted for the high chapel, but found too large. 371. Crowning Christ with Thorns, by Bosch, either a copy or replica of that in gallery of Valencia. Sala Prioral. Two or three Bassanos. 333. Ecce Homo, Tintoretto. 336. Noah Intoxicated, Giordano. 53. El Descendimiento, Vander Weyden. 62. Gloria, Purgatorio e Infierno, ascribed to El Greco, and known as the Dream of Philip II. 396. An Entombment, Tintoretto. 442. Lot and his Family, ascribed to Vaccaro. 443. St. Peter, Giordano. 444. Christ at the Pharisee's house, by 138 ESCORIAL CON VENT. Tintoretto, purchased at Charles I.'s sale for 100. 446. The Lord's Supper, by Titian, formerly in the refectory (repainted). 448. Queen Esther, by Tintoretto, purchased at sale of Charles I. of Eng- land for 100. 453. Hades, by Bosch. A pendant in Mad. P. Gall., No. 460. 458. Flowers, by Mario dei Fiori (signed 1650). Iglesia Vieja. Used as a chapel until the completion of the larger actual church. On each side of the altar are an Ecce Homo and Adoration of Magi, by Titian, perhaps only a copy or replica of No. 484, in Mad. P. Gall., ill treated, if not altogether disfigured and spoilt, by restorers, and a copy of Titian's Burial of Christ, formerly here, and now at the Mad. P. Gall., No. 464. In the high altar is a large painting by Titian, representing San Lorenzo's Martyrdom very fine, but ill restored, placed in a bad light, and the picture itself very sombre. It has been engraved by Cornelius Coort. The chapel is a spacious room, 109 feet long and 34 wide. It communi- cates also, directly, with the lesser cloisters. Of the paintings formerly placed here but few remain, and they of slight merit. They are as follows all by Pantoja de la Cruz : 468. Interment (effigy, etc. ) of Charles V. 474. Interment of Philip II. 477. >| 480. I Escutcheons of the House of 484. f Austria. The two interments are copies of those in the Capilla Mayor of the church. The escutcheons are a set of sketches intended for the same position to be placed over each enterramiento. It was while he was at his devotions here, some authorities say, and not in "he Coro of the great church, that Philip the Second received the news of the victory at Lepanto. There is nothing of value to detain the visitor here, and we may pass on at once to the great staircase, or Escalera Principal, which leads from the court to the upper cloisters. It is magnificent, and the work of J. Baut. de Toledo, and J. Baut. Castillo, sur- named El Bergamasco, and father of the fresco-painters, the Granelli. The frescoes on the walls are by Luqueto and Tibaldi, of no merit, arid scenes from the battle of San Quintin, by Giordano, and an allegory of the foun- dation of Escorial by Philip. All the figures are portraits. Claustro Principal Alto contains but few good pictures. No. 144. Christ Appearing to His Mother after the Re- surrection is ascribed to El Mudo. The series from life of St. Lorenzo are by Carducci, and indifferent, and the scenes from History of St. Gerome, by Gomez. A fine St. Gerome Penitent (No. 174), by El Mudo, signed, and a once magnificent Nativity and Adora- tion of Shepherds, by same (No. 175), before which Siguenza says he often heard Tibaldi exclaim, 'Oh, gli belli pastori ! ' 176. Sacrifice of Abraham, a copy of Andrea del Sarto's in Vienna P. Gall, (a replica in Mad. P. Gall. , under No. 387). This original picture, of which the Madrid one is a replica, was sent to Francis I. of France, by A. del Sarto. The replica was, at Andrea's death, purchased by Marq. del Yasto, or Guast, whose portrait Titian painted. 187. Holy Family, by El Mudo, was a great favourite of Philip's. 188. The Scourging of Christ, by the same ; the head of the Saviour, fine. 189. Descent from the Cross, by Veronese (?). Aula de Moral This Hall of Mo- ESCORIAL CONVENT. 139 raltty was used by the monks to hold conferences on points of morality and theology, and solve casuistic contro- versies. Pictures. 108. The Resurrection of Christ, ascribed to Veronese. 111. Burial of San Lorenzo, by El Mudo ; used to be hung in his own rooms at the Escorial. 113. Descent from the Cross, signed by Veronese. 114. Charles V., an early copy from Titian's at Vienna. 116. John of Austria, copy by Car- renos. Camarin. Little remains here of the former treasures, most of the best pictures having been removed to Mad- rid. There are some MS. by Santa Teresa, the works of St. Austin, written in the 8th century, and some relics. 905. A Crucifixion, ascribed to Titian, and 910, a Vitellum, painted and stuck on wood, ascribed to Holbein, Lucca of Holland, etc. (it was a present to Philip from Philibert of Savoy). There are, besides, several miniatures by Leon and Fuente-el-Saz. Celda Prior oil Alta. Some good mar- queterie ; the windows look on the gar- dens and fish-ponds. 293 is a copy by Carreno of Sanchez Coello's very fine portrait of Father Jose de Siguenza, the learned and earlier historian of the Escorial ; the rest are copies. Close to this cloister is a room where Ferdinand VII. was confined, having been arrested for high treason. It contains a few pictures : a copy of Raphael's Trans- figuration by a Flemish painter ; an ex- cellent one of that great master's ' Perla,' by Santos. 221. A Virgin, by Carlo Dolce, etc. In the Celda Prioral Baja is a por- trait of Charles V. by Pantoja, aged forty-seven, signed (No. 419). 420. Philip II., aged twenty-five, by , Antonio Moro (signed). 424. Portrait of Mariana of Austria, Philip II. 's wife, by Carrino. 426. Portrait of Charles II., aged fourteen, by the same, replica, copy, 01 original of No. 250. The rest of the convent is occupied by eight smaller cloisters, the apothe- cary's hall, kitchens, etc. all on the same colossal scale. Library. This portion of the edifice bears most completely and strongly marked the stamp of the founder's and architect's mind. As the Escorial was intended to be the largest convent, the noblest church, and, besides, the emporium of the fine arts, sciences, and letters of the age, there were seminaries and schools formed, and a magnificent library, collected with care and dili- gence, and containing at length invalu- able treasures of Arab art and science, Greek and Hebrew MSS., etc. The Biblioteca is placed above the porch of the Patio de los Reyes. It is 194 ft. long by 32 ft. wide (Spanish). The arched ceiling is painted by Tibaldi and Carducho with subjects personifying the sciences and arts. The composi- tions and allegories, etc. , were the work of Siguenza. The bookcases ana shelves are made of ebony, cedar, orange, and other choice woods, and were de- signed by Herrer ; the pavement is of white and dark marbles. In the middle of this long and beautiful room, very well lighted up, are five large marble and jasper tables, with smaller ones in porphyry, for the use of readers, a pre- sent from Philip IV. There are several portraits here ; that of Charles V., aged forty-nine, is a fine copy of Titian's, by Pantoja. Opposite is that of Philip II., aged seventy-one, ascribed by some to Pantoja, and by others to Moro ; Philip III., aged twenty-three, by Pantoja ; and Charles II., aged fourteen, by Car- reno. There is, besides, a marble bust 140 ESCORIAL CONVENT. of Cicero, said to have been found at Herculaneum ; a plaster bust of the great Spanish seaman Jorge Juan, and two bassi-relievi representing the two sides of the medal given by Philip II. to Herrera, and engraved by Giacomo Trezzo. A portrait of Herrera, one of Isabelle of Portugal, Charles Y. 's wife, by Cranach (?), and of Fray Ceballos, who wrote ' False Philosophy is a State Crime,' etc., complete the catalogue here. The library itself, once one of the richest in Europe, has been sadly dimi- nished through neglect, invasion of the French, and thefts, but still amounts to some 56,000 vols. The basis of it was formed by Philip's private library, num- bering 4000 vols., of which the index or catalogue still exists, with notes in the king's hand. Most of the books are bound in black or dark purple leather. A year after they were placed here (1575), Philip's ambassador to Rome, Don Diego de Mendoza, died, bequeathing to his master his carefully collected library. The collection was consider- ably augmented by gifts, bequests, and additions made up with books from several Inquisitions, convents, and the Chapel Royal of Granada. Alfonso del Castillo was ordered by Philip to pur- chase every good Arab work he might fall upon. The catalogue of all the Arab works in the Escorial extant then, may be seen in Hottinger's * Promptu- arium sive Bibliotheca Orientalis, ' pub- lished at Heidelberg in 1668, in 4to. The original catalogue was classified by Arias Montano and Father Siguenza. In 1614 the valuable library of the Emperor of Morocco, Muley Zidan, amounting to 3000 volumes, was con- veyed here, having been found on board a ship that was captured near Sallee. Most of them were burnt in the fire which took place in 1691, lasted fifteen rlays, and destroyed whole portions of the Escorial. Of the MSS. thus lost no index was formed. In Charles III. 's time the Maronite Casiri published an index of the Arab MSS. extant in his time * Bibliotheca Arabico-Hispana Escurialensis, ' folio, 2 vols. ; Madrid, 1760-70, but which is generally con- sidered inaccurate. The Greek MSS. were classified by Fray J. de Cuenca, * Bibliotheca Graeca,' etc., 26 vols. folio. Strange to say, Spanish libraries, that ought to possess the richest and largest collection of Arab MSS. , are, through neglect, hatred to the Moor, and oppo- sition of the clergy, among the poorest in Europe, and there are petty German University libraries richer in this than the Escorial, where there are but some 1824 MSS. Amongst the books shown to visitors is the * Codice Aureo, ' con- taining the four Gospels in gold letters. It was begun under Conrad II. , Emperor of the West, and finished about the middle of the llth century ; the illu- minations are fine and curious. There is a fine Koran. Amongst the Greek MSS. there are many treasures that call for a patient Hellenist. There are very interesting ' Spanish Chronicles, ' a col- lection of councils of the 10th and llth centuries, a work on chess, dice, and other games, written by order of Alfonso the Learned, and with many illumina- tions ; Seville, 1321. The ' Censo Gene- ral,' under Philip II., and a magnificent herbary, in 13 vols., time of Philip II., comprising American plants. There are also valuable collections of sketches, etchings, and engravings by Raphael, M. Angelo, A. Diirer, Titian, Breughel, etc. The Upper Library is not public, and contains prohibited books, missals, and the Arab MSS. There is close to the library a reading- room, for the use of those who consult the MSS. and books. There is also a ' Catalogus prsecip. auctor. ineditor. MSS.' in the Escorial, by Barvaeti, etc. ESCORIAL PALACE. 141 A permission, signed by the intendente de la Real Casa, at Madrid, and counter- signed by the bibliotecario, etc., is in- dispensable. As for the rest, patience and ordinary civility will help the student more than royal orders, intro- ductions, or catalogues. In this room there are some portraits of learned Span- iards, very indifferent, and one of Arias Montano, ascribed to Zurbaran. The Palace is placed in the angle to N. and E. of the whole edifice. The principal staircase is by Villanueva, and was made for Charles IV., as the former one was not convenient. The rooms in the palace were origin- ally most plainly fitted up, 'Philip wishing, he said, biit for a cell in the palace he had built to God.' They were subsequently altered, and the walls hung with very beautiful tapestry made at the Fabrica of Madrid after designs by Goya, Bayeu, Maella, and others, under the direction of Stuyck ; besides 161 made in Flanders from designs by David Teniers, and some twenty Gobe- lins and Italian. The subjects were most happily chosen, and such as it is to be regretted were not oftener adopted by the great Spanish masters. Philip II.'s own room is indeed a cell, and here all is plainness. It was so placed that he might be close to the high altar, and hear and see the mass from his bed when ill. There are but a few remains of the furniture dating of that time : a chair used by him when suffering from gout, a stool, said to be that on which Antonio Perez, his well-known secretary, used to sit, are all that now remain. But his mind is still to be seen every- where. Philip worked very hard, went to bed late, and the monks' chants awoke him every morning at four, when he heard mass, and so devoutly and fervently did he pray that tears were often seen streaming down his cheeks. For two months previous to his death he endured excruciating pain with firm- ness and patience. On feeling his death approach, he was taken in a litter all over the building of his creation, to see once more, and bid adieu for the last time to all those portions which were more especially his favourites, and on Sunday the 13th September 1598, he expired during the usual morning service, with his eyes turned towards the high altar and the host, and grasp- ing in his hands the very crucifix which his father, Charles V., held when he died. Sola de las Batallas. On the S. side of the palace, so called from frescoes on the walls painted by Granello and Fabricio, and representing important battles and sieges. One of these has for subject the battle of La Higueruela, where Juan II. defeated the Moors, 1431. This fresco dates 1587, and was copied by order of Philip from a chiaro-oscuro canvass some 130 ft. long, found in a lumber-room in the Alcazar of Segovia. It is most important to artists on account of the costume, arms, and military disposition of troops in those times. The other frescoes represent several battles and naval expeditions of Philip II. in Flanders, Terceira Islands, the Battle and Siege of St. Quintin, Lepanto, etc. ; all very curious and interesting. There are rooms richly ornamented with inlaid wood and fine specimens of ironmonger's work in Spain ; see the locks and handles, with inlaid gold. The four rooms containing them date from Charles IV. 's time, and cost some 280,000. They are called 'piezas de maderas finas.' Among other pictures scattered in different rooms, we may mention : In the Cuarto de los Infantes, 1. A Virgin, by A. Cano ; and a small por- trait of Philip II. by Pantoja. ESCORIAL COMPAftA. In the Despacho, Portrait of Charles III., by Mengs ; a view of Venice, by Canaletto. In Sala de Corte, a half-length por- trait of Olivares, ascribed to Velas- quez. In the Queen's Oratory, a Virgin, by Juan de Juanes, besides several Mengs, Maellas, etc. CompaSa. So called because it did acompanar in its way the rest of the edifice. It is an edifice placed on the "W. side, and communicating with the palace by a gallery. Here were the mills, slaughter-houses, cloth-factory, and other offices and trades that fed and clothed the population inhabiting the convent, which was a town in itself. The N. and W. sides of the building front the village and mountains, and have a paved platform or terraces called lonja (lounge ?) On the N". side is also a fine lonja, with a subterraneous gallery, 180 ft. long and 10 ft. high, made in 1770 by a monk called Pon- tones, to avoid the winter hurricanes whilst crossing to or from the village. To the E. and "W. are fine terraces overlooking hanging gardens and fish- ponds. The slopes around and below are planted with elms said to have been brought from England by Philip II. Visit especially the Herreria and Fres- neda, which are, or rather were once, thickly planted. The Escorial (that is the convent, palace, etc. ) belongs to the queen's patrimony ; several monks have recently been allowed to return, but their number does not suffice to say the 17,538 masses for which money was left by the sovereigns of the House of Austria, etc. , and Ferdinand VII. The view from the towers of the Escorial embraces extensive but melan- choly wastes, treeless, trackless, and al- most at our feet, that odd contrast (now daily losing its first force) of a railway and stations, Newcastle coal and iron, and trains running thirty miles an hour, close to this monument of bygone ages, in whose cold granite bosom sleep the mighty representatives of the genius, power, grandeur, and backwardness, of their age. Only imagine Charles V. and Philip rising from their tombs, and seeing their old rival Henry de Beam's descendant, the Catholic Queen of Spain, passing by like a whirlwind in an express train, amid heretical engine- drivers and Voltairian stock-jobbers ! Before we bid adieu to the Spaniards' eighth marvel of the world, we may be allowed to make some remarks suggested by its style. The Escorial is a very important work in the history of archi- tecture, as it constitutes one of the earliest and most perfect types of the Grseco-Roman school, the principles of which the Spanish architects were taught to admire and copy from the ruins of antiquity and the modern edifices of Italy, at the period when the intercourse with that country became so frequent. Mr. Fergusson (' History of the Modern Styles of Archi- tecture, etc.,' London 1862) maintains that in this, as in most Spanish pseudo- classical edifices, the influence of Teu- tonic art is evident, as well as the ignorance of classical detail. 'The sombre but magnificent pile of the Escorial exhibits a series of solecisms which would have shocked the disciples of Vignola and Palladio ; but the whole design shows more of Gothic character than the masterpieces of Wren and Michael Angelo. This 'grandest and gloomiest failure of modern times, ' with its forcible outlines and massive group- ings, puts utterly to shame the miser- able monotony of the still more modern palace of Madrid. ' The first impression it usually produces is that of disap- pointment ; the last is often that of ennui, and delight to come out of the ESCOR1AL CAS1TA DEL PRINCIPE. 143 damp, heavy, sombre necropolis of stone once more into sunshine and air. This building, with its great height, and long, endless, horizontal, unbroken lines, destitute of mouldings, relief, movement, and variety, is an evident illustration of this fact that the purely classical style, divested of the resources that the Revival ushered in, is as ill adapted to edifices of any great size as the Gothic to small ones. But the Escorial must be considered as a con- vent, and not a pile built for ostentation or effect, as the inspiration of a great mind tainted with melancholy, of deep piety, which sought rather to ponder on the sombre, awful, retributive side of religion, than on the sunnier one of mercy, hope, bliss, and love. The man explains the edifice, and the edifice is the picture of the man. Those granite towers, resting on deep, massive foun- dations, rise boldly into the heaven lofty, aspiring, plain, like the prayers his stern heart sent forth to God. Those spacious halls, without pictures or stonework to distract the eye, lighted up, and leading finally all to the church and the altar, are like the avenues of his mind. Each part has a signifi- cance and a meaning, and all blend into one harmonious whole, like the notes of Mozart's Requiem or the Stabat Mater of Rossini. Here Philip came, not to live as a prince, but to die as a monk ' With age, with cares, with maladies oppressed, He sought the refuge of monastic rest.' JOHNSON, The Vanity of Human Wishes. to * carry ' as he said, * his own bones to the grave. ' Philip's Chapel. About 1 m. is the Silla del Rey, a seat formed by granite boulders, whence Philip used to watch the progress and effect of the rising edifice. Casita del Principe. Built in 1772 for Charles IV. by Villanueva, and placed on the slope of the hill on which the convent rises. It is surrounded by gardens and shrubberies, neglected and weedy. It was intended for a toy or show-house, rather than for a residence, and containes a few curiosities. In the ante-room are some Giordanos and a Caracci ; the others have fine names, and many are certainly original daubs. There are some bits of good marble marquetry, ivory-work worthy of Chi- nese patience, jaspers and gilding, clocks, faded silks, and furniture of that Renaissance Pompeii and Hercu- laneum style so long the fashion with Napoleon and the Spanish Bourbons. The Casa del Infante is another house, but most indifferent, built for the Infante Don Gabriel. Books of Reference,. 1. 'Memories sobre la Fundacion del Escorial y su Fabrica, ' by Fray Juan de San Geroni- mo (MS. in Library of Escorial, K. j. 7); also published in the valuable ' Colec- cion de Documentos ineditos para la Historia de Espana,' vol. vii. The author was one of the first monks sent by Philip II. to found the mo- nastery. 2. * Sumario y Breve Declaration de los Disenos y Estampas de la Fab. de S. Lorenzo del Escorial, por Juan de Hen-era ;' Madrid, 1589, 8vo ; most rare, and of great value, as being the handbook to Escorial by its architect. A copy in library of Duke of Osuna, Madrid. 3. ' Descripcion de la Octava Mara- villa de el Mundo,' etc., by Alfonso de Almela, dedicated to Philip II. ; MS. fol. in Bibl. Nacl. (G. 194), dates 1594. 4. 'Descripcion Breve,' etc., with the additions to the edifice by Philip IV., by Father de los Santos ; Madrid, Impta. Real, 1657, fol ; several edi- tions. 144 ESTREMADURA. 5. ' Descripcion, ' by Ponz, in his ' Viage de Espaiia,' vol. ii. 6. Quevedo's detailed 'Hista. del Real Monasterio, etc. ; Madrid, Mel- lado, 1849. The author was librarian of the Escorial, and therefore could dis- pose of every document in it relating to the subject. It is superior to Rotondo and Romajo's works. 7. A series of articles on the MSS. of the Escorial in the Eevista Contempor- anea, 1888. ESTREMADURA. Geographical and Administrative Divisions, etc. This out-of-the-way, dull, and most uninteresting region comprises now the provinces of Caceres and Badajoz. It derives its name from Extrema-Oria, the last and extreme conquest of Alfonso IX. (1228). The length is 162 m. from Sierra de Gata to Sierra Morena, and the breadth 123 m. from E. to W., occupying a surface of some 1211 square leagues, with a population of Caceres, 303,721 ; Ba- dajoz, 431,922 : total, 735,643. The Sierra Morena separates it on the S. from Andalusia ; to the N. it is bounded by Leon and New Castile ; to the E. by the hills of Bejar and the Batuecas and Sierra de Francia ; and to W. by Portugal, from which it is sepa- rated by the Eljas, Tagus, and Sierra de Gata. Badajoz is the residence of the Captain-General of Estremadura and Caceres, the see of the bishop and Au- diencia. It is mostly very flat, and con- sists of boundless, trackless plains, with villages like happy days, * few and far between,' and an indolent, simple, pas- toral, ignorant population, given ex- clusively to pasturing and rearing swine. The cities are very poor, and lack objects of interest to the tourist. The want of roads, wretched accommo- dation, and absence of subjects of in- terest to attract tourists, have made us write so brief a description of its towns. However, the very features of this country, its loneliness and silence, its unexplored natural history, may tempt some tourists of a peculiar class and disposition. We refer them, therefore, to Madrid, from Lisbon to Caceres. We must not forget to recommend most especially to antiquaries an ex- cursion to Merida, Alcantara, Coria, etc. , which abound in very important Roman antiquities ; and Yuste will attract all admirers of Charles V., who lived and died in the monastery of this name (see Cdceres). The spring and autumn must be selected as the best periods of the year for visiting this seldom-visited region of Spain. Routes* Madrid to Almaden, rail. Merida, r. Badajoz, r. Trujillo, dil. Caceres, r. Alcantara, rid. Coria, rid. Plasencia, r. Talavera, r. Toledo, r. Madrid, r. The Estremeiios are dull holgazanes to the backbone, unprogressive, honest, and trustworthy. Their dress is dark and unpicturesque. Books of Reference. 1 . ' Observaciones sobre las Antig. de Extrem., by the Marques de Valdeflores ; fol. MS. in the Academia de Historia, Madrid. Important to antiquaries. 4. * Situacion, Limites, Historia, Mi- nas, Ganados, etc., de Estremadura,' vols. 25 to 35 of Larruga's valuable ' Mems. Econ. y politicas de Espana, ' Madrid, 1795-97. Forner's Antigiiedades (MS.) ; the most important work on the subject, according to Valdeflores and others. GALICIA. Geographical and Administrative Divisions, Rivers, etc, The former Reino de Galicia now contains four large and thickly peopled provinces viz. Coruna, capital La Coruiia, popu- lation, 631,500; Pontevedra, capital Pontevedra, population 481,000 ; Orense, capital Orense, population 402,500 ; and Lugo, capital Lugo, popu- lation 473,000 : total, 1,988,000 souls. Coruna is the residence of the cap- tain-general, under whose military ju- risdiction the four provinces are placed, and the seat of the Audiencia. It is bounded on the N. by the Bay of Bis- cay, E. by Asturias and New Castile, S. by Portugal, and W. by the Atlantic. Its extent is some 1032 square leagues; which, when we consider its population, is an evident proof that, compared with other provinces, Galicia is by far the most densely peopled of Spain. The principal rivers are : The Mino (Portu- guese Miriho), which crosses the whole reino from N. to S., an extent of 80 kil. ; and the Tambre, flowing from E. to W., intersecting the country, and, together with numberless tributaries, watering its valleys to excess. The country is hilly. The Sierras de Loba, Testeiro, Sierra de Porto, de St. Ma- met, Sena, etc., are lofty and woody, and the Pico Ancares and Pena Tre- vinca on the eastern boundary are covered with snow almost all the year. The lower valleys are warm and sunny, and several of them, especially about the Mino, most beautiful and wild. History. That of Galicia is the least interesting in Spain ; indeed, there scarcely exist any annals : ' heureux les peuples qui n'ont pas d'histoire!' The reino was founded by the Suevi, 409 ; conquered by Leovigil, 585, and by the Arabs in 713. It was subsequently an- nexed to Leon, and also to Asturias, and even became the appanage of Juan Garcia, the son of Ferdinand I. of Portugal. Placed between contending parties, their victim and their prey in turn, devoid of any great riches, living principally amid the mountain fast- nesses, where their poverty tempted none, and their fierceness kept most at bay, the G alleges were never or little troubled by conquerors, scorned by the rest of the more civilised Span- iards, and lived under the rule of pre- datory chiefs. Santiago or Compos- tella, founded in the 9th century, when the body of St. James is said to have been miraculously discovered by Bp. Theodomir, became an important city, of world-wide repute, and frequented by pilgrims who nocked to the shrine of this saint. Galicia was declared an Audiencia territorial by Ferdinand and Isabella, and Santiago chosen for the re- sidence of the justicia mayor. This im- portant royal commissary governed the country in the name of the king. The seat of this authority was subsequently removed to Orense and to Coruna, till the radical organisation of the kingdom in 1835. Character of the People; Language, Dress, Customs. The Gallegos are the Boeotians or Auvergnats of Spain ; they are a tall, muscular race, hardy, la- borious when their interest is at stake, but otherwise indolent and dirty. They are very honest, and may be depended upon. They supply all Spain with ser- vants, mozos de cordel, cabbies, flunkeys, (lacayos), marmitons, aguadores (water- carriers), and all ffices of beasts of burden, and much exposed to kicks, pwntapies, liveries, and other signs of servitude and degradation, which the proud Castellanos, independent Vasca- 146 GAL1CIA. ences, and fiery Andaluces despise, and leave to this more humble race ; fonder also of lucre, of * aguinaldos ' and savings, which after three or four years' exile (to them) in Madrid, Seville, and other large cities, they carry back to their damp, dirty mountain hovels and secluded val- leys, where they realise their constant dream to own land (fincarse), however small a patch, however unproductive the soil may be, and the borono (millet) bread, darker and harder than the snow-white golden -crusted ' pain de la servitude' of Castilian 'grandes.' Love of home, la turret, sickens the emigrant Gallego a year or two after he has quitted it, even if he has reached the highest station in flunkeyism, when the fumes of his grandeur, the glitter of the gold-laced hat and coat, are dispelled from his eyes, which see now distinctly, and not without a tear, in the camera oscura of the heart, the little white choza under the old, well-known chest- nut, by the laughing rill on the green slopes ; and when the noise of the heavy coach-wheels and the hum of the corte are no longer loud enough to drown in his ear the discordant tune of the gaita, the rough deep soprano voice of his Marusiria, the hollow barking of his perru, all calling to him, and sweet as music to his lonely heart. In the sum- mer, at harvest-time, flocks of sturdy Gallegos spread over the corn-teeming plains of Castile and northern Portugal, armed with a short hoz (sickle), like the Irish in England. The reaping once done for the indolent Castilian labourer, who wants arms only because he will not employ them, they return gladly to their free hills and homes. The women meanwhile have not been idle, and when the rueca (distaff) rests, the field is ploughed, maize and potatoes sown, etc. The Gallegos make good soldiers, brave, patient, and easily managed. The dark side of their character is formed by a suspicious mood, jealousy and envy, love of gossip and meddling, avarice and ingratitude. Their language is a patois between Old Castilian and Portuguese, and their ludicrous pronounciation of the Spanish, not less than their proverbial naivete, often cunningly put on, has made them the laughing-stock of the more cultos Spaniards. They use the u for o, the i for e, etc., say sinuritu for senorito ; and one of their war speeches, during the Peninsular war, began, ' Nusutrus dicia- mus a vusutrus, murriinus in il campu di gloria I' 'I have been treated as if I were but a Gallego,' says the proud Castilian ; and in Fray Gerundio's satirical newspaper on the constitution of Spain, published some years ago, the first article ran thus : ' All those who are born in Spain are Spaniards, and the Gallegos besides.' Their customs are plain, patriarchal ; they are given entirely to rearing fine cattle and cultivating their too-much- divided properties. Pilgrimages are still the fashion here and there, more as pretexts for jollification than devout excursions (though the natives are most pious and superstitous), and the Ro- merias are now but village fiestas, when the slow, grave, antique muneira is performed, the couples dancing back to back to the tune of the bagpipes, when the heady wines of the country are absorbed in prodigious quantities, and those of each pueblo loudly proclaim its superiority over the others : ' Viva Briallus !' * Nu, mas viva Amil !' ' Yiva Catoira ! ' discussions which usually end and are settled by the introduction of 'porros,' a sort of shillelah, and other suchlike striking arguments ad hominem. The dress is sombre, and suited to the rainy, damp climate. The men wear short light-brown cloth jackets, knee- breeches of the same stuff, and polainas or cloth gaiters, either of black or light brown cloth, for which woollen stock- ing are sometimes substituted in summer. A double-breasted waistcoat of the same colour and material, with a few rows of brass buttons, enlivens the monotonous costume ; wooden shoes, the French sabots, madrenas, are used by the peasants. The head-gear consists of a pointed cloth or velvet cap turned up at the sides, and very like those worn in the time of Louis XI. of France. The dress of the women are still plainer ; on working days they are clad in white or striped linen, thrown over their heads for mantillas, and dark sayas ; but their dress, as well as that of the men, is most picturesque and handsome, when worn by the wealthiest farmers on great holi- days, marriage-dances, etc. In some of the valleys goitre, paperas or butfio, and its accompaniment, cretin- ism, are found. This awful and disgust- ing infirmity seems to be peculiar to every hilly country, Switzerland, Savoy, the Pyrenees (French and Spanish), the Ariege, Andes, N. Navarre, N. Basque Provinces, Asturias, and Galicia. The causes of goitre, which produces cretins those bastardised, rachital beings, a degree lower in the scale of the human race, whom we always find side by side with healthy, luxuriant, proud-soaring trees and vegetation have never been ascertained. Those afflicted with this hypertrophy of the gland are known to inhabit flat and low districts, 40 ft. to 70 ft. only above the level of the sea (Elboeuf, Dax, S. of France), as well as the highest plateaux of hilly districts, in the ventilated, opened Maurienne, Le Valais, and Lombardy ; among people who live well, and with comforts around them ; and also in countries where snow never falls, such as parts of Africa, Sumatra, etc. In reply to those who have stated that they are exclusively met in countries where snow and glaciers GALICIA. H7 abound, it has been urged that cases of goitre are totally unknown in the highest valleys of the Alps, Norway, Sweden, etc. Dr. Grange is of opinion that the soil of countries where goitre prevails is formed of magnesian rocks, or contains dolomite and sulphate of lime and magnesia. D. Moretin derives the malady from certain organic sub- stances found in some waters ; D. Chatin ascribes it entirely to the absence of iodine in the soil, waters, or air of dis- tricts where goitre is common, and iodine preparations invariably cure or mitigate the goitre by absorption ; yet bread, vegetables, and meat, all contain iodine, etc. In Galicia and Navarre, the cretins, who do not however abound, are looked upon with pity and disgust, but seldom succoured. The exemptions from the army on account of goitre and other glandular affections in this kingdom exceed by far those in other provinces, viz. Coruna . Orense . Pontevedra Lugo 35 37 in 66 Total . 249 The total number in the forty-nine provinces amounting to 805, of which Asturias comes in for 318, and Cataluna nearly the rest. Mineral Springs. Although not so rich as Asturias, yet this province pos- sesses several mineral springs most abundant and efficient, which, were they properly managed, would be an import- ant source of prosperity to the province. The saline spring of Camoudes de Bro- garin, the hot waters of Caldas de Keyes, Caldas de Cundes, Orense, Lugo, Cor- tegada, etc., are excellent. The princi- pal are, Arteijo, near Coruna, very like those of Plombieres, St. Gervais (Savoy), Baden (Austria), etc., and the sulphu- reous spring of Carballa, near Coru&a . U8 GALIC1A. temperature, 24 to 34 centigrades. For details, see General Information. Agriculture, Mines, Trade, etc. What little is produced is consumed on the spot, and trade, without excess of production, and absence of wants and capital, must necessarily be an idle word. Yet the ports are secure, nume- rous, and admirably situated for com- merce. Vivero, Rivadeo, and Ferrol, on the Bay of Biscay, are sheltered and deep -bottomed. The Bay of Vigo is among the finest in the world ; Coruna is perfectly placed, of easy access ; Ca- marinas, one of the most secure in Spain ; and Cornubion, Noya, Muros, etc, are all excellent. The soil is rich and generally well cultivated, the products of the land varied ; thus, fine corn is reaped in the Vegas of Orense, Mon- terey, and the banks of the Ulla. Oranges, the citron, maize, and flax grow plentifully about Redasdillo, Tuy, and Rosamonde. Hemp, flax, oats, chestnuts, abound near and about Mon- donedo, Lugo, and Betanzos. The olive is also met here and there, and the wines grown in the districts of Orense, Vigo, Amandi, Valdeorras, etc., equal and would surpass those produced in Portugal, were more pains taken in the elaboracion. There are excellent pasture-lands about the Ulla and hilly districts ; goats, sheep, and a small hardy breed of cows, are reared with skill, and sent in large quantities to the Spanish ports and London. The mines, those at least that have been worked, are insignificant ; copper, iron, and tin, are nevertheless said to exist in vast proportions. There are no fabrics save a few crystal, petroleum and linen works at Coruna, Ferrol, Vivero and Tuy. The hills produce excellent timber for shipping and building. The bacon is delicious, and the Bayona hams (near Vigo) are celebrated, and not to be con- founded with those of French Bayonne. Those of Candelas are equally good. Q-eneral Description. The cities are devoid of interest, if we except Sant- iago, the greatest pilgrimage centre in mediaeval times, and interesting for its churches, etc., Lugo and the unrivalled Bay of Vigo and scenery around. The botany is worthy of study, and possesses great variety, owing to the difference of temperature. There is capital trout and salmon fishing, and wolves, boars, and caza menor are met with in the hills. The mountain scenery is Swiss-like, but tamer, and less varied in aspect. The climate is damp, rainy, and very cold in winter, when the mountain-passes and tracks are impracticable. The roads, few in number, are not well kept, and the mountaineers often prefer the beaten tracks (senderos), which are both softer to their own and their horses' feet, and considerably shorten distances. Excursionists will find great hospitality among the simple-hearted cheerful highlanders, and the sturdy, sure- footed, long-maned jacas gallegos (hacks) are excellent for expeditions in the hilly districts. The best period for visiting Galicia is from the end of April to the middle of September. The routes we suggest are as follows, and have been chosen with a view to com- bine mountain scenery, fishing, and city sight-seeing : Leon to Villafranca del Vierzo, r. Ponferrada, r. La Baneza, rid. Lago de Castaneda, rid. Monterey, dil. Orense, dil. Rivadavia, r. Tuy, r. Vigo, r. Pontevedra, dil. Santiago, dil. Coruna, dil. Ferrol, s., or r. and rid. Betanzos, r. Or, Lugo, r. Cangas de Tineo, rid. Montonedo, dil. Rivadeo, dil. Oviedo, dil. The Lago de Castaneda, Puente San Domingo de Flores, the Upper and Lower Cabreras, etc., will gratify the lover of scenery. The trout-rivers are : The Tubia, Ladra, between Ferrol and Mondonedo ; the Ulla and its tribu- taries, Furclos, Mera, etc., between Lugo and Santiago ; the Mino, Tambre. The Sierra Candau abounds in wolves. 149 GERONA. See BARCELONA Routes. GIBRALTAR. English seaport and fortress ; lat. 36 6' 30" N. ; long. 5 21' 12" W. Greenwich. Population about 20,000. exclusive of the garrison. With the garrison, about 25,000. Koutes and Conveyances. From London, 1151 m. By the boats of the Hall line, weekly ; fare, 8, 1st. cl. ; calling at Vigo or Lisbon and Cadiz. Agents in Gibraltar: S. Peacock and Co., Irish Town. Or, better, by the first-class steamers of the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company ; Head Offices, 122 Leadenhall Street, E.G. Agents in Gibraltar : Smith, Irnossi, ! and Co., Irish Town. Time, 5 days I (Wednesday to Monday) ; fares, 1st cl., 9 ; children three years and under ' ten, 4: 10s. ; 2d cl., and passengers' servants, 5 : 10s. Horses, 10 ; dogs, 2. Leave Gravesend every Thursday about 1 P. M. A special train from the Liverpool Street Station of the Great Eastern Railway to Tilbury (L. T. S.), from whence passengers are taken on board by the Company's river steamers. A surgeon on board. Divine service on Sundays. These steamers do not now touch at Vigo, but proceed direct to Gibraltar, where they remain for 6 to 12 hours, then leave for Malta, etc. Also by the steamers of Messrs. Mac- Andrews and Co., by the Spanish line of Senores Saenz y Compania, and by many other irregular sailings, for which see advertisements. From Liverpool. By the Cunard lin e, weekly ; fares, 8 and 5. Agents in Gibraltar : M. H. Bland and Co., Irish Town. Also by Burns and Maclver's steamers (same agents) and the Moss line. Agents : Smith, Imossi, and Co. f Irish Town. From Glasgow. By the Anchor lino, every 10 days. Agents at Gibraltar: Henderson and Co., Waterport Street From Havre. By Ligne Peninsulaire. With first-class lines to Gibraltar the traveller should pause before commit- ting himself to second-class boats. Description of Sea-Passage. By this mode of reaching Spain, a good deal of trouble and expense is avoided, and, if undertaken in fair weather, the voyage is, on the whole, very pleasant. Two days after leaving the port we enter ' Biscay's troubled waters. ' The first land made is the N. W. coast of Spain, Cape Finisterre, after Cape Ortegal. The coast of Portugal is now descried, and, wind and weather permitting, we pass within a few cable-lengths of Cape St. Vincent. A bold, rocky headland gives the Cape a very picturesque ap- pearance, enhanced by the deep red colour contrasting with the green of the sea. A huge mass of rock, detached in front of the headland, adds to the tableau, the background of which is formed by the noble range of the Montchique mountains. A lighthouse with a rotary light rises on one side, and a romantic monastery on the cliff. Cape St. Vincent was the Roman ' Mons Sacer,' a name which a neighbouring Portuguese hamlet (Sagres) has pre- served, which was reformed in 1416, by Prince Henry of Portugal. The Arabs called the convent Henisata-1-gorab, the Church of the Crow, from the re- ligious tradition of some crows who watched the body of St. Vincent, who was put to death at Valencia in 304, but removed here during the Moorish invasion. This cape is particularly in- teresting, in connection with the battle fought Feb. 14, 1797, between the Spanish fleet, under Don Jose Cordova, and Admirals Jervis a,nd Nelson, in 150 GIBRALTAK. which fifteen small English defeated, after one day's hard fighting, twenty- seven large Spanish ships, among which was * La Sta. Trinidad,' of 136 guns, four of the largest falling into Jervis's hands. The steamer rounds the cape and steers S. E. Cadiz and the low flat shores of Andalusia are left westward, and now we enter the Straits of Gibraltar. Pass off Cape Trafalgar ; in front project Tarifa and the yellow plains of the Salado, famous for the victory won by the Christians over the Infidel. A small block of white buildings and a lighthouse are all that attract the eye on land, but here is the precise site of the battle of Trafalgar, Oct. 21, 1805. Our readers are too well acquainted with the facts of this Waterloo of the seas, that we should venture to recall them to their minds. The Straits, the Arab c Gate of the Narrow Passage* (Bab-ez-zakak), 'el estrecho,' are about 12 leagues from Cape Spartel to Ceuta, and from this Cape of Trafalgar to Europe Point, in Spain. The narrowest point is at Ta- rifa, about 12 m. A constant current sets in from the Atlantic at the rate t of 2^ m. per hour. Across to the right rise the low hills of Africa, Tangier being almost visible to the naked eye. Geo- logists, who in their conjectures go so far a,s to admit the possibility of America and Europe once forming one vast con- tinent, find it an easy matter to connect Europe with Africa by a supposed isth- mus, which must, they say, have existed about this point. They prove this by the variations of soundings, by the Phoe- nician tradition of a canal which was cut between the two continents, and over which a bridge was built, the canal gradually widening ; and by urging that the geological composition of several rocks and headlands (that of Gibraltar included) on the Spanish portion, be- long exclusively to the N. African for mation, differing in this and other re- spects from the surrounding Spanish continent, etc. Now we soon run close in under Spanish land, Sura being seen away on the hill-top, and the fort and lighthouse of Tarifa (see Cadiz) close to us. Gradually steering westward, we enter into stiller waters ; and before us rises majestically, grand, all-mighty, bristling with 2000 cannon, the grey rock on which proudly waves the red flag of England. Algeciras is on our left, San Koque a little to the W. , and the glorious range of Spanish hills in the distant background. Upon the right the long line of the African coast, charmingly diversified, reaches away as far as the shadowy Apes' Hill, which towers above where Ceuta lies, while the hitherto bare Spanish shores put on an unwonted beauty of shape and greenness. For boat fares at Gibraltar see p. 153. From Malaga. By land, riding either by Casarabonela, 6 leagues ; El Burgo, 2 ; Ronda, 3 = 11; whence by route described Granada, or a shorter way, and one we can recommend, as fol- Leagues. Malaga to Churriana . . i Torremolinos . . . . i Arroyo de la Miel . . . i Benalmedina J Fuengirola . Marbella . . Venta de Quinones Venta Casasol . . . i Estepona . . . 2 i Venta de la Torre . . , ij Venta de la Sabinilla . . Venta de Rio Guadaro . . \ San Roque .... 2^ Gibraltar . . . i 30} Horses are found at Mirallas (Malaga). The journey is paid to and back, horses and men. One guide is sufficient when there are no ladies or considerable luggage in the case (lug- gage can be mostly sent by sea to Gibraltar, and addressed to the hotel). Guides may b? obtained at the Hotel de Roma, etc., who speak English, and understand French ; charge, 4or. a lows : (long) 4 GIBRALTAR -MALAGA TO GIBRALTAR RIDING. 151 day, meals and bed included, exclusive of his horse. Side-chairs can be procured for ladies, and are less fatiguing, but not quite so safe. There is a short cut by Coin, Monda, Ojen, to Mar- bella, and then following the same route, but it is not so pleasant as the one recommended, the only attraction being the site of the battle of Monda, where, on March 17, A.C. 47, Julius Caesar routed the sons of Pompey, and thus obtained the mastery of the world. The jour- ney can be performed in two days, sleeping at Marbella. (We rode it in -2\ days, leaving Malaga at 2.30 P.M., and driving as far as Arroyo de la Miel, where we rode the horses sent beforehand, and arrived at La Fuengirola at 7 P.M.) Puengirola. Inn: Posada del Salvador; clean beds, and no need for zoological researches trust to the gazpacho and rice. This small village and castle stand most picturesquely on a crag. As one approaches it the heights of Sierra Blanca are descried to the right, and to the left roll the quiet blue waves of the Medi- terranean, with the sandy beach glimmering in the distance, and studded with isolated watch- towers, mostly of Moorish style, dating from the troubled times of constant surprises, inroads, and rebellions, characteristic of the protracted war between the Crescent and the Cross. Fuengirola was the Sual of the Romans, and Sohail of the Moors, so called because from its neighbouring hill the star Sohail, the Canopus, is the only point in Spain from which it can be seen. Ibn-Al-Kathib says it was the object of constant landings .of Christians, and that its inhabitants were a bad sort of people. Leave Fuengirola at 6 A.M., glancing, as you pass, on the Castillo de Calahorra (Kalat- Horreah) and the wild Monte and Puerto de Mijas, reach Castillo de Cana del Moral, 8.30, and Casa Fuerte or Castillo del Moro at 10 A.M. Observe this, and a little beyond the Torre de los Ladrones, which is doorless, and entered by means of ladders. These are each and all associated with traditions, mostly tales of war, bold deeds, and scenes of bloodshed. The scenery is wild, the paths now and then precipitous. Sierra de Marbella rises on the right, pregnant with rich iron-mines, which are worked by Malaga enterprise. Marbella (where dine) is charmingly situated amidst orange -gard ens ; pop. 8000. Ibn-Al- Kathib and Idrisi praise Marballah for its un- rivalled grapes and figs, but call it a tent of strife, where blood was shed constantly by the enemies of Islam, as it was peopled by true believers, v/hence its other figurative name of ' the Land of Predication in the sacred months,' etc. The views from its Alameda are extensive ; the white walls of Tangier glitter on the opposite shore, and the rock of Gibraltar rises in the distance. On beholding the sea from this spot, Isabella is said to have exclaimed, in rapture with the scene, * Que mar bella ! ' whence the name Marbella has been erroneously derived by some. Hotel accommodation in this rapidly increasing town increasing with the develop- ment of the vast mineral wealth of the district leaves much to be desired, but the Fonda de Sandalio Chicote is fair. H.B.M. Vice-Consul, Dn. M. Calzado. The climate is delicious and wholesome, the air more genial and moist than at Malaga, and when the communications be- tween Gibraltar and Malaga become more practicable, this will deservedly become a favourite medical station. The town has a good port, and rapidly increasing trade. The 4 leagues from Fuengirola to Marbella appear much longer than the 5 leagues between this and Estepona, an anomaly frequent on Spanish roads. To right extends the thickly planted Posesion of Marshal Concha, Marques del Duero, near the unwholesome ague-stricken hamlet of San Pedro Alcantara. Observe the { sugar-canes how luxuriantly they grow and ) thrive in this climate the best thermometer to consult. There is excellent shooting between this and Estepona, which is mostly a preserve of the Marshal's. Ford the Guadalmanza twice, pass by a Torre of same name, and turning to right by Venta de la Tia, Estepona will be reached at 7 P.M., shortly after crossing the Rio Verde. Estepona. 9316 inhab. N.E. of Sierra Bermeja; seaport the Esthebbunah of the Moors, but of earlier foundation (Cilniana of the Romans), as, according to the history of this city written by Abn Bekr-el-Idrisi Alfarabi, and what Ibn-Al-Kathib states, it contained in their time ruins of several monuments. The castle was built by the Romans, and there are some ruins of an ancient aqueduct of Salduba at Las Bovedas. The best inn is that of the Alcalde (dear ; without ordinary meat to offer the hungry traveller). Estepona, a small, clean town, supplies Gibraltar with fruit and vegetables. Its sierra and that of Casares abound with cabras montesas, roebucks, etc. Leave next morning at 9, or, what is better, at 7, so as to reach Gibraltar early. (There is a road from Estepona to Ronda, which lies 7 leagues across a hilly district, and to N.W. another to Gaucin.) Castillo de las Sabinillas will be reached at n A.M. Ford the Guadiaro (Fluvius Barbesulse), if not swollen by rain. There is a ferry-boat, a few yards farther, from which passengers are landed on men's shoulders. Fares, 4 cuartes each party, and same for each horse. Riders may save an hour by avoiding San Roque. San Rogue. Province of Cadiz 152 GIBRALTAR. 8,434 inhalx Macre's hotel, an English inn, j-mall, but comfortable ; another in Calle de la Plata. This smuggling population and most indifferent town is so called from a former her- mitage dedicated to San Roque (y su perro). It is the cabeza de partido of the Campamento, which cross, and proceed through the lines to Gibraltar. At the gates, passports, luggage, etc., are strictly examined. From Malaga and Cadiz. By the steamers of Messrs. John Hall and Co. , weekly, in about 8 hrs. ; fares, 1st cl., 1; 2d cl., 12s. The French Com- pagnie General e Transatlantic^, trad- ing between Gibraltar and Oran weekly, call at Malaga. The excellent steamers of the Spanish Segovia Cnadra line may be taken weekly, from or to Algeciras, from whence small ferry boats across to Gibraltar. The steamers of Messrs. Haynes run about three times per week in 10 hrs. ; fares, 18s. and 10s. For other less regular steam communica- tions see announcements upon the walls and in papers. From and to Tangier, etc. See Tangier. It may be said generally that there are steamers constantly plying between this and the principal ports of the United Kingdom, France, coasts of Spain, Malta, Egypt, etc. Between Gibraltar and Algeciras. In summer (1st April to 30th Septem- ber) steamers leave Gibraltar for Alge- ciras at 9 and 10.30 A.M., and 5 P.M. on Sundays ; leaving Algeciras for Gibraltar at 7 and 10 A.M. and 4 P.M. On week-days the hours are 9 A.M., 12 noon, and 5 P.M. to Algeciras ; 7 and 10A.M. and 3 P.M. to Gibraltar. In winter (1st October to end of March), Sundays, to Algeciras, 9 and 10.30 A.M. and 4 P.M. ; from Algeciras, 7 and 10 A.M. and 3 P.M. The remainder of the week 9 A.M., 12 noon, and 4 P.M. from Gibraltar, and 7 and 10 A.M. and 2 P.M. from Algeciras. Fares, 1st cl., 5 rvn. ; 2dcl., 3rvu. CHART OF GIBRALTAR. Scale, i inch to the mile (English). Hotels. 1. Royal Hotel in the main street : 14s. a-day without extras. 2. Europa Hotel on the New Mole Parade. Both these hotels are fairly comfortable and well managed, but their charges are too high. 3. The King's Arms, close to the Royal Hotel ; excellent attendance and cuisine ; good wines ; charges reason- able. Regulations. Strict regulations concerning foreigners and British sub- jects are observed here, and martial GIBRALTAR. 153 law rules on the rock. No foreigner can reside without his consul or a. house- holder becoming his security. Permits of residence are granted by the police- magistrate for ten, fifteen, and twenty days ; military officers can introduce a stranger for thirty days. The gates are shut at sunset, and 5 to 15 min. after the evening-gun has been fired. Hours of gun-fire (minimum time), when the gates are opened and closed. Opened in the morning, Jan., 6.15 to 6.10 ; Feb., 6.10 to 5.40 ; March, 5.40 to 5; April, 5 to 4.15; May, 4.15 to 3.45; June, 3.45 to 3.50; July, 3.50 to 4.10 ; Aug., 4.10 to 4.40 ; Sept., 4.40 to 5.5 ; Oct., 5.5 to 5.30 ; Nov., 5.30 to 6 ; Dec., 6 to 6.15. Evening Gun. Jan., 5.35 to 6 ; Feb., 6.5 to 6.30; March, 6.35 to 6.55; April, 7 to 7.20 ; May, 7.25 to 7.50 ; June, 7.55 to 8 ; July, 8 to 7.40 ; Aug., 7.35 to 7.5 ; Sept., 6.55 to 6.20 ; Oct., 6.10 to 5.40 ; Nov., 5.35 to 5.20 ; Dec., 5.20 to 5.35. The second evening gun is fired at half- past 9 o'clock throughout the year. N.B. These tables are most useful to those riding into the country, as tho gates are afterwards shut for the night. Post Office, Main Street ; the general overland mail and Algeciras estafette are received and despatched daily. All letters for Spain must be prepaid by British postage stamps. Letters for England go in a sealed bag vid Madrid. The mail is despatched at 9 A.M., reach ing London on the fifth day, Paris on the fourth day, and Madrid on the third day. A letter, therefore, posted in Gibraltar early on Monday morning is delivered in London on Friday night, or in the provinces on Saturday morn- ing. Letters from London are despatched twice daily, but the evening mail waits for the early despatch of the following morning, and both are delivered together in Gibraltar on the evening of the fifth .lay. Letters for the United States, West Indies, the States of South America, Canada, etc., are sent in the London closed bag, unless some other route is specially named on the envelope. Correspondence for Malta, Egypt, and the East, with Australia and New Zealand, is forwarded weekly. The postal rates are : For Spain and Tangier, Id. for a letter not exceeding oz. ; 2d. for 1 oz. Newspapers, d. for 2 oz. and every additional 2 oz. For countries within the Postal Union, 2|d. for letters not exceeding \ oz. ; 5d. for 1 oz. Newspapers, ^d. for 2 oz. and for every additional 2 oz. Telegraph. Telegrams to England vid France or Bilbao (but route must be specified), 4 pesetas 70 cts. for 10 words ; 9 pesetas 40 cts. for 20 words, with a ground tax of 5 words. Carriages, Cabs, etc. For fares by distance see tariff supplied. By time : Is. 6d. per hour for one or two persons, with 9d. for every additional half-hour ; each additional passenger to pay an extra 6d. per hour. Horses, 2 dols. per day; 1 dol. for the afternoon. Good hired carriages of all descriptions can be had, from heavy clarences to jaunting-cars and hansoms. Avoid the Spanish calesa, fit only to crack one's bones to pieces. From hotel to port 2s. is the customary charge. Boats, Tariff. s.d. 2 6 To Bay and back, not exceeding half an hour .... Every extra half-hour . . . .10 To Ragged Staff Stairs . . . .26 New Mole 26 If more than two persons, for each . .10 General Description. This famous fortress (the Calpe of the ancients) is situated on the W. side of a lofty pro- montory or rock, which projects into the sea in a southerly direction, some 3 miles, being one-half to three quar- 154 GIBRALTAR. ters of a mile in width. The town lies on the western slopes of the rocky mountain, the highest portions of which (1430 ft.), though apparently naked, are, on closer survey, found to be clothed with African vegetation. What, however, is most remarkable is, that this rock, outwardly so harmless in appearance, is all undermined and tunnelled with wonderful ingenuity and at enormous expense, and now and then, behind a palmito, or between two prickly pears, the yawning mouth of a cannon will just peep out, like a bull- dog at bay. The E. and S. sides are very rugged, and almost perpendicular, and their being fortified is quite a display of defiance, as they are totally inaccessible. Its northern side, front- ing the narrow isthmus which connects it with Spain, is precipitous, and not less accessible ; yet perhaps the only one by which an army could begin the assault. The circumference is 6 miles, the length, K to S., about 3. The W. side, facing the sea, is ap- parently the weakest, and the portion to right of Ragged Staff Stairs, and all about Jumper's Battery, was certainly not as strongly fortified as the rest before the new works were begun, and here the English landed under Admiral Rooke. One of the extreme ends of the rock, facing the sea, is Europa Point, where a lighthouse and batteries have been erected ; the other, on the opposite extremity, is called Punta de Espana. The neutral ground is the strip of land dividing the rock from the mainland, the portion belonging to England being all undermined ; it could also be instantly submerged. A little beyond is the Campo de Gibraltar, and the lines (lineas) where the Spanish sentry, the burnt-up, black-eyed, thin, ill-fed, but picturesque child of the sun mounts lazily guard side by side with the fair-haired, blue-eyed, and prosaic son of fog and rain. The precipi- tous sides of the grey limestone rock are verdant in spring and autumn, and the scattered orchards produce excellent fruit ; in summer they become tawny and bare. There is, at that season of the year, a want of circulation of air, which, added to the extreme heat, scorching Levanter, and absence of trees, makes Gibraltar next to intoler- able. The rock, moreover, rising be- hind the town, reflects the heat, and checks the currents of air. The highest point of the rock is called the Signal, or El Hacko. From it the panorama is unrivalled. The eye, from this eagle's eyrie, sweeps over two seas, two quarters of the world, and what four hundred years ago constituted five kingdoms viz., Granada, Seville, etc. Beyond the straits looms the mysterious verdant (not arid) Africa, with its king- doms of Fez, Mequinez, Morocco, and its ports of Tangier and Ceuta the Abyla of the Phoanicians. When first seen from the sea, the great rock bursts suddenly into the blue air, a height of 1430 ft., rising, as it were, from under the waves, as the land about it is all flat, low, and does not appear linked to it ; it rises like a mon- strous monolith, a fragment of some shattered world dropped here by chance, and not ill- compared, by a foreign writer, to a gigantic granite sphinx, whose shoulders, groins, and croup would lie towards Spain, with the long, broad, loose, flowing, and undulating outlines, like those of a lion asleep, and whose head, somewhat truncated, is turned towards Africa, as if with a dreamy and steadfast deep attention. Towards the W., in the distance, we can descry the high summits of the arid Cuervo, the hills of Ojen and Sonorra ; to N. the range of the Sierra de Ronda ; and towards the E., following the wide outline of land formed by the Mediter. GIBRALTAR. 155 ranean, all the creeks, miniature har- bours, and promontories of the indented coast, the small town of Estepona, part of Marbella, farther on the hazy peaks of Sierra Bermeja, and finally, blending with the luminous skies, the snowy heights of Alpujarras and Sierra Ne- vada. At our feet lies the now almost imperceptible town of Gibraltar, and yonder, in the bay, the three-deckers at anchor, which look like so many play- things, or miniature ships, whilst, sweeping across the quiet blue sheet of sunlit water, the eye rests pleasantly on the terraced gay-looking Algeciras, and to the right San Roque and its cork-tree forest. The Fortifications. Apply for permit at the military secretary's office, Gunner's Lane. A master-gunner conducts the visitor. Ladies, and parties who dread fatigue, are provided with donkeys. The defences of the rock are wonderfully con- trived ; the result of constant and close investigation of every nook and corner liable to surprise. In the course of this visit we pass first the Moorish castle (which is not shown), one of the earliest Moorish works in Spain, having been erected, according to the Arabic inscrip- tion over the S. gate, in 725, by Abu Abul Hajez. The Torre del Homenage, which is riddled with shot-marks, is picturesque, with a fine circular arch. The Galleries. Near this are the 1 galleries, ' excavated along the K front, and in tiers. These contain thirty-seven guns of different calibre, some mounted on stocks, in order to change the level when required. The smoke when the guns are fired issues freely, causing no serious inconvenience to the gunners, save when strong easterly winds prevail. Visit the Cornwallis and St. George's Hall, the latter of which is 50 ft. by 35 ft. The engineering of these tunnelled galleries, the distribution of the guns, the lighting up, the deposits for shot and powder, are admirable, though exceeding, perhaps, all the strict requirements ; it is 'le luxe et lacoquetteriedel'imprenable.' Signal Tower. Upon leaving the galleries visitors should ascend to the Signal Tower, along zigzag roads. On the way they are likely to meet, or rather descry in the distance, some of the advanced guard of the maraud- ing monkeys, the tenants of the rock, who, as first occupants of the soil, have been always respected both by Spaniards and English. The bravest come down from the tops at night-fall, and lurk about the orchards in search of fruit and stray chickens ; others, more prudent, keep to the palmitos and prickly pear, which they carry with them to discuss on the rocks. At the Signal Tower telescopes and refresh- ments are provided. From this point (the view from which has been already described) proceed to the stalactite Cave of St. Michael, which presents a fine sight when illuminated. The ruins of the O'Hara Tower, or Folly, may next be seen, situated on the S. point of the rock, and which was built by that officer to watch the movements of the Spanish fleet at Cadiz, and de- stroyed by lightning soon after its com- pletion. The view it affords of the S. district is very fine and extensive. Then return by the geranium-planted avenues and narrow lanes into the city. Those who interest themselves in military de- fences may visit, in the lower portion of the rock, the Devil's Tongue Battery, close to Land Port, then following the sea or line wall to King's Bastion, after- wards by the gate and walls built by Charles V., passing on to South Port, Victoria Battery, and Orange Bastion, to the gardens. On their right are the Ragged Staff Stairs and Jumper's Bat- tery. Ascend Scud Hill, as far as Wind- mill Hill. Visit the Naval Hospital, South Barracks, Pavilion, etc. 156 GIBRALTAR. The City is most uninteresting and dull. It consists of uniform white- washed huge barracks, and low, flat- roofed, and darkly-painted houses, mostly made of bricks, plaster, and wood, after an Italian, or rather no style. The streets are narrow and winding ; the principal one is Water- port Street, which is lined with very in- different shops, where prices are higher than in England. English comforts, however, can be procured, including excellent tea, ales, cigars, English medicines, firearms, saddlery, etc. The Alameda is the pride of Gib- raltar, and is truly charming, being Laid out in the English style, and abounding in beautiful geraniums and bowers. It commands fine views of the straits and coast of Africa. At the entrance is the drilling-ground, where the regimental bands play in the evening. The monuments to the Duke of "Wellington and General Elliot are mean and tasteless. The Alameda then becomes the fashionable lounge, and the spectacle presented by the close contrast of populations of ex- treme points of Europe is quite novel and curious, The London bonnet and Mrs. Brown 's hats are seen side by side with the mantilla de tiro ; blue eyes and rosy complexions next melting black eyes and olive-dark cutis. The different mien, toilette, language, and walk are all striking. Theophile Gauthier thus de- scribes the effect produced on his humorous mind by this scene: 'Je ne puis exprimer la sensation desagre- able que j'eprouvai a la vue de la pre- miere Anglaise que je rencontrai, un chapeau a voile vert sur la tete, mar- chant comme un grenadier de la garde, au moyen de grands pieds chausses de grands brodequins. Ce n'etait pas qu'elle fut laide, au contraire, mais j'etais accoutume a la purete de race, k la finesse du eheval arabe, & la grace exquise de demarche, a la mignoniierie et a la gentillesse andalouses, et cette figure rectiligne, au regard etonne, la physionomie morte, aux gestes angii- leux, avec, sa tenue exacte et metho- dique, son parfum de 'cant,' et son absence de tout naturel, me produisit un effet comiquement sinistre. II me sembla que j'etais mis tout-a-coup en presence du spectre de la civilisation, mon ennemie mortelle.' There are no buildings of particular interest. The governor's house is in- different, the synagogues poorly de- corated, the English and Spanish churches not worth visiting. Religious toleration rules side by side with liberty of commerce. There are two bishops, one Protestant and the other Catholic. Tourists should not neglect, en pas- sant, to visit the several markets, if possible early in the morning ; not for the nicknacks, mouldering bedsteads, worm-eaten chairs and tables which are sold, but on account of the types and dress of the motley crowd. Moors, Turks, Greeks, Jews, the Spanish smuggler, the Catalan sailor, the red coat of the English private, all mingle together, bawling, disputing, bargaining, and cheating in their different tongues, ways, and gestures. The fish-market is another sight not to be omitted. The fish is excellent and varied. There is always a good supply of fruit from Spain and Morocco ; the Tangerine oranges are exquisite. The Bay of Gibraltar is spacious, and sheltered from the most dangerous winds. It is formed by two head- lands Europa Point on the rock, and Cabrita in Spain. Two moles have been constructed for the protection of ships ; the old one, offering none but to small craft, projects from the K end of the town, 1100 ft. into the sea. Along the new mole, which is 4 m. more to the S., and extends 700 ft. GIBRALTA R BAY. 157 outwards, line-of-battle ships can easily be moored. The greatest length of the bay N. tc S. is 8 m. ; the width E. to W. of 5 in., and the Idepth in the centre exceeds 100 fathoms, the tide rising some 4 ft. ; the anchorage is good, the bay being exposed only to S. W. There is a good deal of trade at Gibraltar, as it is a free port, hampered with but few restrictions. The value of British products ex- ported to Gibraltar amounts to about 660,000. The revenue collected in the town amounts to from 30, 000 to 40,000, which is sufficient to defray the public civil expenditure. But since a more liberal system has been introduced by Spanish ministers of finance, the exports of British products have declined. History. When the Phoenicians (see Cadiz), in their bold and distant naval expeditions, arrived thus far, they con- sidered this to be the end of the world, and called it Alube, or (according to many) Calpe or Calph, a ' caved moun- tain.' Here they erected one of the two Pillars of Hercules, the other being that of Abyla, Abel (Ceuta), which rises on the African coast some 2200 ft. high. Tarik, the one-eyed Berber invader, attacked and took the place, April 30, 711, and to commemorate his first victory called it after his own name, * Ghebal-Tarlk. ' It was re- covered by Guzman el Bueno in 1309, but surrendered to the Moors some years after.. Another Guzman in 1462 dispossessed the Infidel, who never re- covered it after that time. During the war of succession, in 1704, when the garrison consisted of only eighty men, Sir George Kooke, by a sudden attack, surprised and obtained an easy posses- sion of it. Since that time, and not- withstanding repeated efforts made by Spain and France, and a siege which lasted four years, England has main- tained this fortress at a lavish expendi- ture of gold. Of late years there has been some idle talk about restoring Gibraltar to Spain, and, not better founded, offers of compensation from the Spanish Government. Gibraltar is a thorn in the side of every Spaniard, just as the possession of Dover by the French would be one to every English- man. In the eyes of some Spanish patriots and statesmen it is a * Car- thago delenda est, ' and they have en- deavoured to show that it would be for the interest of England to give up this stronghold. Pamphlets, squibs, and leaders have been launched on the sub- ject, armed with Armstrong arguments, and with no better success than D'Ar- tois' floating batteries before the rock. In England Mr. Bright, who was the first to open the discussion, declared in Parliament that in his opinion Gibraltar ought to be given back, and he drew especial attention to the expenses* in- curred by England, which are upwards of 200,000 annually in time of peace (5000 men), exclusive of material the total outlay having been fifty millions sterling upon its defences. Burke held a different opinion of its importance, and referred to it 'as a post of power, a post of superiority, of connection, of com- merce ; one which makes us invaluable to our friends, and dreadful to our ene- mies. ' Its importance has increased as a coal depot since the propagation of steam. It affords also a convenient and secure station for the outfit and repair of British ships of war and mer- chantmen. There are stores and water- cisterns which would supply a garrison of 150,000 men during two years. Climate. Here the Levanter, the * tyrant of Gibraltar,' rules with more power and intensity than elsewhere, * According to the last army estimates, Gib- raltar figures for 4980 men, at n cost of ,206.260 158 GIBRALTAR. the town lying open to its influence. Its prevalence lasts sometimes for six weeks, and even two months. It is peculiarly fatal to children, and to advanced stages of phthisis, nervous constitutions, and generally where debility prevails. The "W. wind is also termed the * Liberator.' There is an epidemic malady, called * Gibraltar fever, ' which breaks out in the autumn, but its visitation is at rare intervals. According to local military doctors, one of the causes of pulmonary diseases frequent among the garrison is to be ascribed to * the peculiar nature of a soldier's life, which is not favourable, when compared to that of a civilian, to the enjoyment of any exemption from chest diseases, which a warm climate may be calculated to afford.' Thus the soldiers, after drinking and amus- ing themselves in the town, which is warm and sheltered, hasten, when the retreat is sounded at nightfall, to their barracks, which are situated on the higher and more airy parts of the rock. The extreme change of temperature then occasions diseases erroneously attributed to the climate. The rate of mortality has been steadily decreasing of late years. Thus while in 1862 it was 31-40 per 1000, in 1884 it was only 19 per 1000. Money at Gibraltar. By an order in Council of May 2, 1881, the follow- ing currency has been settled : Goldpieces. 100 pesetas ; 50 pesetas ; 25 pesetas ; 10 pesetas ; 5 pesetas (com- monly called dollars) ; with the doblon de Isabel, value 25 pesetas ; the 4 escudo, or 2 dollar piece ; and the 2 escudo, or gold dollar piece. Silver. 5 pesetas ; 2 pesetas ; 1 peseta ; 50 centimes ; 20 centimes ; with the 2 escudo, or peso duro ; the 1 escudo, or half- dollar ; and 3 reals of plate, or J dollar. Bronze. 10 centimes; 5 centimos; 2 centimos ; 1 centime. Calculations are also made in reals de vellon, 20 of which are equal to a dollar of 5 pesetas ; and in an imaginary coin called real de plate, 12 of which are taken as being equal to a dollar of 5 pesetas. The following table gives a useful expression of current values : 1 dollar = 5 pesetas = 12 reals de plate = 20 reals de vellon (rvn.) = 48 pence = 192 farthings = 500 centimos. Though not legal tender, all Spanish and British coins are taken in ordinary transactions. 1 is reckoned as equal to 25 pesetas ; 4 shillings as equal to 5 pesetas ; 1 shilling as 125 centimos (1* 25 pesetas) ; and one penny as 10 centimes. Bankers. Messrs. Archbold, John- ston and Power, Irish Town. Consuls. France, M. de Trobriand. Morocco, Hadj Said Guesus, Waterport Street. Germany, F. Schott, Esq. Spain, E. Mediano de Blasco. United States, H. J. Sprague. Doctors. Patron, Market Street ; Triay, Turnbull's Lane. Baths. Market Street. Bookseller and Stationer. Beanland, Church Street. Morocco, etc., fancy articles. Beno- liel, Gunner's Lane. Wines and Cigars. Saccone, Market Street. Amusements. Theatre Roy al,Tennis, Polo, Cricket and Rowing Clubs. The Garrison Library, 45,000 vols. Visitors admitted upon introduction. Adjoining is the Pavilion, with bar, smoking, billiard, card and dressing rooms. Several good Clubs and Philharmonic Societies, to which admission upon introduction is readily obtained. The bands play on the Alameda on Mon- days and Thursdays, at 9 P.M. in the summer, and 4 P.M. in the winter. GIJON. 159 Hunting Club. The Calpe Hunt Club was founded by Admiral Fleming in 1814, who brought here a pack of hounds, which became the property of the club. There is a secretary, to whom apply for admittance. The sport is good, and there are excellent covers. A good hack can be hired for the day for 2 dollars. The best meets are now : 2d Venta, Pine Wood, Malaga road, Duke of Kent's farm. There is like- wise some shooting, woodcocks espe- cially, in the cork -wood, and cabras montesas, partridges, and wildfowl are found in the vicinity of Estepona and the convent de la Almorayma, 14 m. Excursions. To Carteya. An early Carthaginian city ; remains of an amphi- theatre, and two miles' circuit of walls ; some very interesting coins are often dug up, and sold to visitors. To Jimena. Curious grottoes and ruins of a pic- turesquely-situated Moorish castle. Ex- cursion to Tarifa. (See Cadiz.) To the convent of Almoraima 14^ m. by For Tangiers, etc. San Roque, and 13J m. by the straight road, and 4 m. on to the Castle of Cas- tellar, owned by the Duke of Medina - Cell. At San Pedro Alcantara, an ex- tensive estate recently bought by Mar- shal Concha, the sugar-cane is being cultivated on a very large scale. The town is unwholesome ; parts of the grounds abound with game. Algeciras. A special steamer plies daily between Gibraltar and Algeciras. In a boat, with favourable wind and oar, about 3 to 4 hrs. going and returning, which can be done for 30r. (vellon) per head, for a small party (see pp. 93, 152). Distances to the most frequented points. Miles. Waterport Gate to Lines . , Campo 3 San Roque . 6 First river called Guadarranque 5* Ximena 24 | Tarifa by the land 24 Los Barrios. 12 j Algeciras, by the beach i o Algeciras, across the bay 5 J , Carteya ... 5 tc., see Morocco. GIJON. Province of Oviedo, capital of a con- cejo, Asturian sea -port (habilitado). Pop. 20,500. Inns : Fonda de la Iberia, Fonda del Commercio. Both fair and reasonable. Post and Telegraph Offices^ Calle de Jovellanos 46. H.B.M. Vice-Consul, W. Penlington, Esq. Routes and Conv. From Oviedo and Leon, by rail, one through train per day both ways (three from Oviedo). Distance, 171 kil. Time, 8 hours. Fares, Istcl., Pes. 17.70 ; 2dcl., 13.30 ; j 3d cl. , 8. 00. For description of route as far as Oviedo, see Oviedo. From Santander. By land (see Ovi- \ edo). By steamer frequently in about 1 9 hours. Ditto from Yigo, Coruna and Ferrol, in 12 to 20 hrs. From Bayonne, Nantes, Bordeaux, Havre, London and Liverpool (Mac- Andrews' line), and Southampton. For these, as for all other steamer routes, apply to the agents at the various ports and see advts. , etc. They are all very unreliable. From Rivadeo, Aviles, etc. By daily diligence. Gijon is usually reached from Oviedo by rail or road. The road traverses the pretty country about the feligresias of Lugones, and the small sierra close to Venta de la Campana, which forms part of the Asturian mountains. Half- way is the ruined very early church of 160 GIJON. Villardoveyo. It is of the Latin or Romano - Byzantine style. Close to Venta de Veranes are the ruins of a Templar's monastery. From the Vega of Porceyo one can already descry Gijon. General Description. Gijon is situated on the slopes of a hill or head- land, surrounded almost on every side by the Mar Cantabrica. The annual value of imports and exports is about 225,000. Its excellent port deserves more prosperity, the entrance being easy at all times, and the bottom good. It is habilitado ; that is, enjoys the privilege of trading with America a privilege seldom granted, and which such ports as Bilbao and St. Sebastian do not possess. The roadstead is de- fended by the small promontories of Capes San Lorenzo and Torres, and it has become one of the many fashion- able sea-bathing resorts of the north- west. The coalfields, which abound close by, at Langreo and elsewhere, are a great source of trade, and the more so since the opening of the railway from Sama. Historically, it is not the Gigia of Ptolemy, but the early Gegio of the Romans. Easily taken and retained by the Moors, it became the residence of Munuza, its Moorish governor, who surrendered the town to Pelayo, after the loss of the battle of Canicas. Some writers have asserted that Pelayo's suc- cessors were styled Kings of Gijon, but it is an erroneous interpretation of the Carta de Fundacion of Obona ; ' Adel- gaster nlius regis Gegionis' ought to be read, 'regis Silonis.' At the time of its prosperity the city was confined to the headland that projects between the ensenadas. The sea isolated it, and the only communications between were carried on by a large and wide/oso, and by a lagoon, or humedal, with an almost impracticable embouchure. In Philip II. 's time Gijon possessed good arsenals, and the Invincible Armada was re- paired here. In 1552-54, Charles V. granted money to the burghers to build a cay, or quay, and a new one was built in 1766 by Pedro Menendez. Sights. On entering the town ob- serve the fine gate del Infante, erected by Charles III. in commemoration of Pelayo, Infans Pelagius, and which opens on the largest street here, called 1 La Corrida, ' which crosses the whole city, and leads to the port or muelle. | The town is clean and improving, but | wanting in objects of interest. The Colegiata and San Pedro (1410) are in- different. In the latter is the tomb of Jovellanos and his marble bust. This great and true patriot was a native of Gijon (born January 5, 1744), who died at Vega, 1811. Cean Bermudez, one of the few good critical writers on art that Spain can boast of, was also born here. The houses of Marq. of Re villa - gigedo, Casa Valdes, and San Esteban, are not early, but goodish mansions. The Institute Asturiano, founded by Jovellanos (1797), possesses a fair li- brary. The tobacco-manufacture em- ploys upwards of 1400 female hands. Excursion to Langreo. Distance, 39 kil. Time, 2% hrs. Fares, ist cl., i6r. ; 20! cl., i2r. 2oc. ; 36 cl., 8r. 2oc. Two trains a day. This railroad, which has been made especially for the coal-pits, was the work of Senor Aguado, an enterprising capitalist, a gentleman of good birth and connections in Andalusia, who died in the winter of 1842, on his journey to Gijon, from cold and starvation. The rail goes only to Osura, whence conveyances can be had to the mines. The latter are no longer worked by any but Spanish capital. The coal-beds in some places run 13 ft. thick, the average being between 3 and 4 ft. The coal is considered inferior only to the best English, but is not now much exported. Anglers can try the Nalon near which is the fine palacio of the Marq. de Campo Sagrado. Excursion to Deva. i league. Visit the church, dates 1006. Also, near Gijon, visit Church of Sta. Maria de Valdedios, founded 892 by Alfonso el Magno. The newer church was built by Alfonso IX. 161 GRANADA. Capital of province of Granada, re- sidence of Captain-General. Pop. of province, about 478,000; of city, about 77,000. Boutes and Conveyances. From Madrid. By rail as far as Menjibar, on the Madrid to Cordova line. Time, 11^ hrs. Fares, 1st cl., Pes. 38.65; 2d cl., 29.95; 3d cl., 18.40; 2 trains per day, and bi-weekly 1st cl. exp. Change at Menjibar (or Espeluy) for branch line to Jaen ; dist. 33 kil. 3 trains per day. From Jaen dil. daily to Granada, 16 \ leagues (49^ miles). Itinerary. Jaen to Venta del Chaval Campilo de Arenas Cortijo de Andar . Venta de Mitagalan Chaparral Granada Leagues. 4 . si This road, most of which was opened in 1828, is excellent and well-engineered, and passes through a country wild and picturesque in certain portions. There are some dwarfish oaks, broom, and heather. The aloe appears for the first time, and Andalusia the Moor's earthly paradise, the enchanted land now lies before you ; and truly, La terra molle e Heta, e dilettosa, Simili a se gli abbitator produce. Jaen. Capital of province of same name; population, 22,938. Inns. Fonda Madrilena ; Fonda de Europa ; fair. The province of Jaen (Ara- bice, Jayyan), was an independent Moorish kingdom of 268 square leagues. It produces the olive and vine, which yield inferior oil and common heady wine. The fruit is exquisite, especially the melons of Granena, peaches of Alcaudete, pome- granates from Jimena, and pears from Jandulilla. There are no cattle, and but few sheep. The formerly celebrated breed of bulls has disappeared, as also the swift, thin-legged, beautiful horses of the Loma de Ubeda, whose original Arab blood can scarcely now be traced in the present ' jacas de terciopelo/ as the song has it, of Jaen. There are abundant lead-mines, yielding upwards of 28, 000 metrical quintals per annum. Public instruction is at so low an ebb that, out of a population of 362,466, only 60,731 are supposed to be able to read ! The consequence is, that there occur from 350 to 400 murders and cases of lesiones corporales a-year, and 250 to 300 robberies, etc. Jaen, the Roman Auringi, was the head-quarters of the Carthaginians, and became the terror of the Romans until the capture of it by Lucius Scipio Afri- canus (T. Livy, 1. 28, cap. iii.) The city became prosperous under their rule, but no vestiges remain of their passage save a few slabs, with inscriptions show- ing the former existence of baths and a temple of Apollo. But such is the fate of this city, that, although the Moors ruled over it for five centuries, nothing remains of their mosques, walls, etc. It was the key of the kingdom of Gra- nada on the N. side. St. Ferdinand, after three sieges, became possessed of it, and pulled down the great mosque to build a church, and Juan II. gave up the Moorish palace to some monks. Towards the end of the 15th century, the ballad hero, 'El Moro Reduan,' offered Boabdil to undertake the recap- ture of Jaen, and consented, were he to 162 GRANADA ROUTES. fail, to be exiled from Granada. The ballad on that subject and wager, in G. Porez de Hita's ' Guerras Civiles de Granada,' is graphic, and savours of those chivalrous times, deeds, and men. * Reduan, bien te acuerdas. Que me diste la palabra, que me darias a Jaen. En una noche ganada.' And one can actually watch Boabdil riding slowly out of the gate of Elvira, amid his numerous followers, gaily attired, * En medio de todos ellos va el Key Chico de Granada mirando las damas moras de las Torres del Alhambra. ' The city rises on the slopes of a cerro crowned by ruins of a castle. It is washed on the E. by the Guadalbullon, and stands amid gardens full of fruit and vegetables, with a few palms here and there. The city walls are fast crumbling down. There are some curi- ous gates, especially the ogival Portillo del Arroyo de San Pedro, the horseshoe Puerta de Martos, etc. The fortified line of walls extended from the castle towards the S. by Puerta de Granada, of which last but little remains ; then went by El Portillo los Adarves, Puerta Barreros, and back again by Puerta de Martos, to castle, which was defended from E. to S. by precipitous hills. The castle is indifferent ; the Torre del Ho- menage contains a few rooms, some with Gothic ceilings and agimeces. Close by is the Moro-Gothic Ermita of Sta. Catalina, built by St. Ferdinand. The streets are narrow and winding, the walls and houses whitewashed, the iron- wrought balconies clothed with vine and ivy, at the corners of which are placed the Moorish fashioned j arras de Andu- jar. There are cool courts inside, with fountains and plants. In the streets the traveller will notice that silence and solitude of all Oriental populations, that fly from the heat, have nothing to do, and doze away life in a cool corner. The Alameda forms a charming prome- nade, from which there are picturesque views. There are an indifferent theatre and a bull-ring for 8000 spectators. The Cathedral dates 1532, and is one of the first churches built in Spain after the Graeco-Roman style. It is the work of Pedro Valdelvira, who erected it on the ruins of a former church built by St. Ferdinand on the site of the great mosque. It is a noble structure, very pure in its design and details. Some of the latter, however, Mr. Fergusson (H. Modern Styles) considers to possess an unmistakable Gothic character, especially the imposts and clustered shafts. There are four entrances. The principal one, W., stands between two massive towers with cupolas, only effect- ive from a distance. The interior is noble, and composed of three naves, but sadly defaced by whitewash, colour, too profuse ornaments, foliage, arabesques, and the like. The doors in the transept leading to the sacristy, etc. , are finely decorated, formed of circular arches with Corinthian pillars, statues, and re- lievos representing scenes from the life of Christ. The Choir is most indifferent. The Trascoro is richly ornamented with marbles found in the province, and in the retablo is a poor Holy Family by Maella. On the left on entering, in a chapel just below the tower, is kept an image of the Virgin, which Cip. Zuniga used to carry on his standard in time of war. It is very old, but ill repaired. In the high chapel is kept the relic, of which the inhabitants of Jaen are very proud, though similar relics may be found at Alicante, Chapel of P. Pio at Madrid, etc., without counting the au- thentic ones at Rome, Lucca, Germany, etc. It is called El Santo Rostro, the Holy Face of Christ, as impressed on the handkerchief of Santa Veronica, who lent it to wipe the sweat from the Saviour's face on His road to Calvary. This is said, by the best authorities, to "be GRANADA ROUTES. 163 merely a copy of the one at Rome, and it is a very indifferent painting. There is a fine portal, by Valdelvira, at Church of San Miguel, a very old Gothic Church of San Juan. There are a few specimens of civil private archi- tecture of 16th century. See house of Conde de Yillar, the portal of which is a medley of the Moorish, ogival, and Roman styles, but of good and novel effect ; the plateresque facade of the house of Bishop La Fuente del Sauce, and those of Vilches, Quesada Ulloa, and the Graeco-Roman Casa de los Ma- sones. On leaving Jaen, the road be- comes wilder, mountainous, and a tunnel 33 yards long, the Puerta de Arenas, runs through a gorge. There are a few ventas and pretty hamlets. The bridge of Beiro is crossed, and Granada is reached. 1. From Gibraltar. By sea to Malaga, thence by rail and dil. 2. From Gibraltar by land. By Ronda or Antequera. This is one of the most picturesque and beautiful rides in Spain, and the scenery is wild and very grand. The roads, and in their absence, the mountain-paths, are tolerably easy. Everything reminds us most forcibly of Moorish Spain, the appearance and situa- tion of the villages, the names, the peasantry and their dress, etc. There are treasures here for the landscape-painter. The usual way is by San Roque, Gaucin, 13 leagues ; but there is a short cut by the Augostura de Cortes, which we recommend, and which saves two long leagues, and is more picturesque and interest- ing. The whole ride may be performed in three days and a half; but four good days are re- quired to get over the ground with comfort, especially if there are ladies in the party. Itinerary, from Gibraltar to Granada. (By San Rogue.) Leagues. San Roque to La Venta de la Loja . . Venta de Aguadelquehizo (Longstables) . i Bocaleones J Ventorillo del Cagajon i Barca de Cuenca i Venta de Mollano or Moyano ... 2 Bait horses. Barca de Cortes 2 Hermit a de la Salud ... i Leagues Cueva del Gato ..... i Ronda ....... i Alora, a railway station of line, Malaga to Cordova, lies about 10 leagues from Ronda. In one day, rising early. 11 Barranco Hondo ..... i Cuevas del Becerro ..... 2 Venta del Ciego . i Venta de Teba ..... i Campillos .... i Sleep either here or at the following, 8 to 9 hrs. Antequera ...... 5 Archidona ...... 2$ Venta de Riofrio .... (l n g) 2 Loja ..... . . . i Sleep here, and next day early to Granada. Venta del Pulgar ..... ij Venta Nueva ...... i Venta de Cacin .... (short) i Lachar ...... (long) 2^ Santa Fe . .... 2 Granada ....... 2 The road crosses the Monte de Castillar and its cork-wood, at the end of which is the Paso de Boca Leones, the former focus of Andalusian bandidos, and the scene of their celebrated chief Jose Maria's exploits. The scenery now, as far as Ronda, is almost unrivalled, and travellers have to wind their way along precipices, and across small rivers, which are passed on ferries (barcas). Those going by Gaucin and Atajate sleep at the former, and get next day early to Ronda, between 2 and 3 P.M., starting at 6 to 6.30 A.M. Gaucin. Inn : Posada In- glesa, clean and decent. There are some clean and quiet Casas de Pupilos on the Mercadillo, close to the bull-ring. The view from the ruined castle, the situation of the village, are well worthy of a visit when there is time to spare. By leaving Gibraltar at 7 A.M. you can easily get in to Gaucin at 5 P.M. ; but the road avoiding Gaucin is far easier and more picturesque. By coming from Ronda to Gib- raltar, you may avoid two leagues' uninteresting road by striking off to the left, close to the cork-wood ; and bear in mind that the gates of Gibraltar close at cannon hour. See Gibraltar. Honda. 23,296 inhab. Fonda RondeSa, much the best. Casino and Bull-ring here. Good place for Andalusian costumes and for fruit. Capital of the Jerrania. Ronda is uniquely situated on a very high rock, 164 GRANADA ROUTES. cleft in twain by volcanic action, and between whose precipitous sides or walls flows the boiling Guadiaro, which girts the city, and takes here the name of Guadalvin, and divides the new city (Ronda la Nueva) from the older (Ronda la Vieja). The country round, on approaching this town, is quite charming. Valleys green and fresh. On the left, hills covered with the olive, the vine ; and on the right, well-cultivated fields, bursting with fecundity and studded with pretty flat -roofed Oriental white cottages glittering in the sun, and the Sierra itself rising before one, with its warm, deep rich tints, and effective grouping, and bold outlines greet the tourist. The streets of Ronda are clean, and the rejas of the houses project into the street, and con- tain quantities of flowers. The market-place overhangs the Tajo or Chasm, and should be visited, as exhibiting all the varieties of deli- cious fruit, for which the neighbouring orchards of Ronda are far famed throughout Andalusia. The Alameda commands an unrivalled view of the mountains, crowned by the lofty Cristobal. The main curiosity and the lion of Ronda is the Chasm, or Tajo. The bridge thrown across was built in 1761, by Jose* M. Aldeguela, and is 276 ft. (Spanish) above the waters of the river: the only arch it consists of is no ft. diameter or span, and is supported by two pillars 17 ft. deep. The view, looking down from the bridge, and that also looking up to this grand and wild cascade of liquid silver from the lowest mill, are not to be equalled, and we do not even attempt to describe the effect, for it baffles pen and pencil. The other and older bridge is 120 ft. high. Visit, besides, the Dominican Convent; a Moorish tower in Calle del Puente Viejo ; the Casa del Rey Moro, built 1042 by Al. Motadhed ; the ' Mina de Ronda,' which is a staircase of 400 steps, cut out in the rock by order of AH Abu Melee, in 1342, who employed Christian slaves. The handsome bull-ring is built of stone. The bull- fights here are certainly the best in Spain for true couleur locale^ costumes, and aficionados, as the Ronda population is composed of hardy and bold mountaineers, bandidos retired from business, smugglers (that polite name for the former occupation or trade), and bull-fighting and horse -dealing are their passion and favourite occupation. There is a celebrated fair held every year (2oth May), when the majeza, bull-fighters, the small swift horses, the ruddy-cheeked pretty women, are seen in all their force, bloom, and beauty. It is a capital time and place for acquisitions of mantas, embroidered gaiters and garters, etc. Excursions, not very interesting, may be made to Cueva del Gato (two leagues N.W.), which is full of stalactical caverns, and to the ruins of Ronda la Vieja. Ronda is recom- mended to tourists in the S. of Spain, who may seek a cool summer residence. A railway from Bobadilla to Algeciras, passing through Ronda, is begun ; and there is a daily coach to and from Gobantes. Next day the mid-day halt had better be at Vento del Ciego. Leaving Teba on the right, which is only interesting as being the title worn by the Empress Eugenie, who is Countess of Teba in her own right, Campillos may be reached from 7 to 9 hrs. after leaving Ronda. Inns: La Corona, Jesus Nazareno, etc. Two leagues from this village is the Salina, or Salt Lake. Antequera. Pop. 27,340. Inn: Posada de la Castana. The Anticaria of the Romans, is placed on a height, and was a strong- hold of the Roman and the Moor. Of the ancient town Antequera la Vieja there are but very few vestiges, such as some vague traces of a theatre and a palace, removed in 1585 and embedded in the walls close to the Arco de los Gigantes. There is little to see here. Tourists who have time to spare may ascend to the castle, built by the Romans and considerably enlarged by the Moors, from whom the city was recovered by the Regent Fernando, hence called ' El Infante de Ante- quera,' in 1410. Visit here some Roman re- mains at the entrance ; the Barbican and Torre -macha are curious. The Colegiata of Sta. Maria is indifferent, both outside and in- side. Here there is rail to Granada, two trains per day, in about 4 hrs. ; dil. to Malaga (9 leagues) by the Boca del Asno and Venta de Galvez, etc., and rail to Malaga via Bobadilla junction, in about 5 hrs. The ' Cueva del Menzal ' outside the town, as we continue our way to Granada, may be examined by antiquarians. It is one of the few monuments found in Spain of the Celtic period or Druidical times. It is 70 ft. deep. It was, so to say, discovered and cleared away by a Malaga architect, Serior Mitjana, in 1842, who has written a description of it (8vo ; Malaga, 1847). A short way out, upon the Malaga road, is El Torcal, a fantastic group of stones resem- bling the Enchanted City near Cuenca. For the rest of route to Granada, see Malaga to Granada. From Malaga by rail. Two trains per day in about 8J hrs. By the Cor- doba line as far as Boba- dilla. (Fair buffet, half an 'hour's stay.) Change here GRANADA ROUTES. 165 for Granada, vid Antequera and Loja. See for Antequera, Gibraltar to Granada. On leaving that city the lofty range of the Torcales hills is left on our right. The train passes close to an immense rock called, romantically, c La Pena de los Enamorados ' Lovers' Rock. Two lovers, it is said, a Moorish girl and a Spanish knight, being pursued by the former's father's attendants, fled for refuge hither, and next day threw themselves from the rock, clasped in each other's arms. Archidona, an ancient but uninteresting town. All these places, and the towns between here and the coast Alhama, Velez- Malaga, etc. suffered greatly from the earthquakes of 1884-85. Loja. Pop. 17,128. Fonda de los Angeles the Roman Lacivis, and Arab Lauxa, once very prosperous, and a favourite with the Moor, is a sadly de- cayed town. It is placed in a narrow valley formed by the Periquetes hills (a prolongation of the Sierra de Ronda) and the Hacho, with the Genii waters running through it and below the city with a stupendous noise. The Manza- nil, which rises close by, forms a fine cascade on joining the Genii. From the fertility attending on the abundance of waters, everything grows here in abundance. The mulberry thrives won- derfully, and the silk produced is fine. Not far from station of Tocon lies the historical but otherwise unimportant city of Santa F. This town was built by Queen Isabella, during the siege of Granada, in 1492, to shelter her army during the winter, and show the enemy how very firm she and the king were in their purpose to capture the town, the last bulwark of the Moor. It was de- signed after the general outlines and plan of Briviesca (a wretched small town of Castile, not far from Burgos), and Seville, Cordova, and other large cities contributed with their funds to the building of it, which was concluded in eighty days. Sta. Fe was the scene of many important political acts, such as signing the capitulation of Granada, etc. On arriving at Granada by this route, the first impression will be almost a disappointment. The Alhambra is seen rising on the left. Riding from Malaga, by Alhama; dis- tance, 18 leagues ; two days, sleep- ing at Alhama. Horses may be readily procured at Alameda ; fares, . --- 4or. a-day per horse, stabling in- cluded, and 4or. to guide, and about i2r. to aor. to second guide with the pack-horse (if the party be numerous). Useful guides and travelling servants may be obtained. Itinerary. Leagues Malaga to Velez-Malaga . , 5s La Vinuela . . . . .2 Venta de Juan Alameda . . . i Zafarraya ...... 2 Venta Cacin ... . \\ From latter to visit Banos de Alhama i From Baths to town of Alhama . \ Ventas de Huelma .... 2 La Mala (mineral baths and salinas) i Gavia ...... Almilla ...... \ Granada ...... \ Two dils. leave Malaga daily for Velez- Malaga, and perform the jour- ney in 3% hrs. for 25r. Ladies L and not over-strong horsemen will do well to take this convey- ance thus far ; arrive there early, see the town, and sleep ; have the horses waiting and fresh, with side-saddles, or side-chairs, and proceed thence to Alhama, where sleep. Next day ar- rive at Granada. The journey thus will be rendered less fatiguing, and the scenery is so beautiful that the one day more will be amply compensated. The inns are tolerably good, but travellers should attend to the provender. For riding all the way 5 hrs. are necessary to reach Velez-Malaga, where breakfast and bait horses. Seven hours (five to well-girt horseman) are required between Velez-Malaga and Alhama (where sleep). An hour and a half may be given to see the baths of Alhama. Next morning leave at 6 A.M., and Granada may be reached in 8 hrs. Some tourists prefer to sleep at Velez, and go on the remaining fourteen hours next day. 166 GRANADA ROUTES. Velez-Malaga. Inn: Fonda de Aguilar. 15,000 inhab., 2 kil. from the sea, and at the foot of a hill which forms part of the S. range of the Sierra Tejada. The Rio Velez is crossed on entering it. The place greatly ruined by the earthquakes. There is little to see, except the ruined castle with its solitary small tower. The vegetation around Velez is most luxuriant, Owing to the constant moisture and African sun. The aloe, palm, sugar-cane, prickly pear, the orange, the vine and oil, indigo, and the celebrated sweet potato (batata de Malaga), grow here without almost any cultivation. The air is salubrious, and the climate ' that of heaven/ to use an Andalusian hyperbole. Velez -Magala is linked in Spanish history with many great events in Moorish warfare and chivalrous legends. The town, after a long siege, was taken by Ferdinand the Catholic, who killed a Moor with his own hand. Lovers of legends and romantic history should read Washington living's 'Conquest of Granada;' historical facts may be gathered from Bernal's ' Cura de los Palucios/ ' Crdnica de los Reyes Catolicos,' Vedmar's ' Bosquejo Apologetico/ etc. ; Ma- laga, 1640. His ' Historia y Grandezas/ Gra- nada, 1652, and Rengifo's 'Grandezas/ a MS. in Marques de la Romana's library, may be also consulted. The road on leaving Velez winds up along the river, and through verdant valleys, wild mountain passes, and orange-groves. To the right rise the mountains of Tejada, the arid slopes and heights of which are dotted with villages. Now the pass called Puerto de Zafarraya (Arabice, the field of the shepherds) is crossed. The snowy Sierra Nevada soon after breaks upon the traveller, shining in the distance like a wall of silver. The road be- comes dreary and monotonous ; here and there the eye is saddened by the melancholy sight of heaps of stones, with the small rough cross well known to tourists in Spain, as records of murders committed there. 'Aqui mataron/ etc., and often raised by the penitent murderers themselves. Alhama. Put up at the Bath Hotel ; much the best. Alhama in Arabic means ' the Baths/ whence several alhamas or mineral springs bearing the same name in Spain, such as Alhama de Aragon, etc. Alhama stands most picturesquely on the edge of a rent in the mountain. The streets rise like so many terraces, one above another, and behind, as a background, rises the Sierra de Alhama, in which the Tejada rises 8000 ft. above the sea. It is seen to most advantage coming from Granada. The Marchan winds round the hills, and the rocks rise almost perpendicularly from its bed, forming the sides of the gorge. Alhama was one of the most important strong- holds of the Moor, and the land-key of Granada. Its importance did not escape either the Moor or the Christian, and it was the scene of many sieges and gallant deeds towards the decline of the Mussulman's rule in Spain, and ended in its capture by the heroic Marauis of Cadiz, Feb- ruary 28, 1482. The ballad, ' Ay de mi Alhama ! ' which Lord Byron translated, laments the loss of this city, the news of which, says the ballad, the King of Granada would not believe in, and Las cartas echo" en el fuego, Y al mensagero matava ; so strong and impregnable did he consider it. The baths may be visited, on riding by next morning. Observe in Alhama (the Roman Artigis Juliensis), remains of an aqueduct on the Plaza, with circular arches, of Roman, some say Moorish, origin. The church is in- different. Around it are bits of fine archi- tecture of many varieties in the facades of grandees' houses, now decayed and tenantless. The tajo, or chasm, of this miniature Ronda is very picturesque, and worthy of a Turner. Below, the Marchan boils and rushes amongst wild rocks and foliage, mills and bridges, and Moorish-looking houses on the brink of the chasm. The Baths. Probably known to the Romans, were much frequented by the Moors, whose favourite bath, ' El Bano Fuerte/ is well pre- served. The bath, ' de la Reyna/ with a dome, is probably "a Roman construction. The sul- phurous spring is 42 to 43 cent., and strongly impregnated with nitrogen gas, and is beneficial for dyspepsia and rheumatism. The visitors who in former times annually flocked hither, as is said, to the number of 14,000, have now dwindled to 700 or 800. The accommodation is tolerably good. The road becomes dreary and uninteresting, and the miserable Cacin, Venta de Huelma, etc., are passed. Around La Mala are several important salt-pits (salinas). The hills separating it from the Vega of Granada are composed of gypsum, strongly impregnated with salt. From the brow of the hill here before us we obtain our first view of Granada, and the verdant, inexhaustibly rich vega lies spread before us. To the left rise hills which, becoming loftier, break into the cliffs of Alfacar. The sight is truly Alpine. Descending the hill, Gavia la Grande is reached, and 2 hrs.' ride across the vega brings the traveller to Granada, through a succession of corn-fields, orchards, and hemp plantations, etc. N.B. There is a coach every other day from Alhama to Granada. GRANADA ROUTES. 167 Motril to Granada. Daily coach. Not , to be recommended save for economy. Prefer- ' ably by riding ; 73 kil., 13$ | Spanish leagues. The portion of j road as far as Beznar has been re- \ i paired. Leagues. Itinerary. Motril to Velez de Benadulla Izbol Beznar Talara . Padul Granada . The journey may be performed in one long lay ; if not, sleep at Beznar. The road is interesting on account of the scenery. Dil. from Beznar to Granada and to Lanjaron ; berlina, 4or. ; int., 3or. ; to Granada in about 4 hrs. Motril. 17,000 inhab. Inn: La Dorotea. In a valley close to the sea. The climate ot this valley is truly delicious, and is con- sidered as the most salubrious on the whole coast of Granada. In winter the thermometer never falls below n 8 cent., and in summer rises very seldom above 24* to 25 cent. There is nothing to see at Motril, excepting a few ves- tiges of walls and an indifferent church. Close to the city is a small bay, El Puerto de Motril, but really called Calahonda. A small village so called is built around it, and inhabited by poor fishermen and sailors. The plains around Motril abound with oil, vines, sugar-cane, cotton, Indian corn, etc. There is a bridle road to Malaga by Almunecar and Velez -Malaga (distance, about 64 m. ). Velez de Benadulla. 3100 inhab., close to Guadalfea, a Moorish town (Arabice, ' the Land of the Childern of Andalla '). It is also called Velezillo. The castle is most effective. Close by is a mill, with some colossal olive trees planted by the Moors. The scene is most picturesque and romantic. Beznar is a wretched hamlet composed of crumbling houses ; the posada is said to be tolerable. Here it is optional to take the road, either by Durcal and Padul or by the Pinos del Rey. The latter is a prettier road, but longer by 4 leagues. A Ihendin. Close to this otherwise un- interesting hamlet, is one of the low hills which form the boundary on this side of the Vega de Granada, and is celebrated alike in history and romance by the melancholy name of ' El ultimo suspiro del Moro ' (the last sigh of the Moor). It was here that Boabdil halted after leaving Granada. in the hands of the Catholic kings, and was seen weeping as he took a farewell glance. His mother, then the haughty Aze- rhah, rebuking him, said, 'Weep not as a woman for the loss of a kingdom which you knew not how to defend like a man.' 'Allah, achbar ! ' replied the fugitive monarch, ' God is great, but what misfortunes were ever to be compared to mine?' He was really most appropriately surnamed 'El Zogoibi/ the ill- starred, for the lord of the golden Alhambra saw his children at Fez begging at the doors of mosques ! 6. From Murcia, by Guadix, Baza, and Lorca, 47 leagues, 3 days. This wretched coach route is nearly a thing of the past. The railway is begun. 7. From Cdrdola. By rail, vid Bobadilla, in 8J hrs. From Cordova by road. A very Interesting riding-tour may be made from Cor- dova to Granada. The route passes across wild romantic districts, mag- nificent mountain scenery, quite Alpine in character ; the climate delicious, and the soil teeming with fruit, wine, corn, and the olive. The posadas are bad, and one must rough it. No important towns or historical sites of importance are passed ; but there are treasures for the botanist, mineralogist, and lovers of the picturesque. The journey can be performed in two days, if in summer ; but dur- ing the winter three are necessary. Sleep at Baena, and, if in winter, at Alcala la Real, 22$ leagues. N.B. From Baena there is a short cut to Antequera, 12 leagues. (See description given below, and Malaga from Cordova). Itinerary. Leagues. Cordova to Sta. Crucita '. . 4 Castro del Rio .... 2 Baena 2* (10 hrs.' ride long, from the many hills). La Rapita .... 4 Alcala la Real .... 2 Venta de Palancares . . i Ventas de Puerto Lope . . 2 Pinos Puente .... 2 Granada .... 3 22* From Cordova to Castro del Rio the route is monotonous, but the cornfields will interest the English farmer ; not for their mode of cultiva- tion, but for the produce, which in quality and quantity is perhaps unrivalled in the world. 168 GRANADA ROUTES. The only river, which often meets the tourist, is the poor Guadahoz. Castro is the Castra Postumia of Caesar's 'Commentaries.' In the Town Hall is to be seen a jasper slab of the former Temple of Augustus. Baena. 11,000 inhab. A wretched posada. The castle on the height was the property of Gon- zala de Cordova, 'el gran capitan,' as the Duke was 'el gran lor.' It is situated in the old town above. There are some funereal urns found in 1833, m a sepulchre said to have belonged to the Pompeya family. In the castle, which, with the palacio, belongs to the Altamira family, Pedro el Cruel, having invited the Moorish King of Granada to a series of fetes, traitorously murdered him with all his followers. Muley- Bahadaei, another King of Granada, was con- fined here in 1483. In the vicinity grows a very pretty yellow orchis. The Marbella produces a tench called arriguela. Alcald la Real. Seven hrs. hard riding are necessary to reach Alcala from Baena, though the distance is short. Inns all bad ; the best is San Anton, on the Alameda. This Al-Kalat (the castle) was a strongly fortified city in the hands of the Moors, and was taken in 1340 by Alfonso XI., whence called La Real La Mota, el Farol, or beacon - tower, was erected by the Conde de Tendilla to guide the Christian prisoners who might escape from the Moors. A mountain defile to the left leads to Jaen. Close to Illora, which is left to the right, on a hill, the Sierra Nevada is first seen, and the Vega de Granada appears after passing the Venta del Puerto. It was on the bridge of Pinos that Columbus, having been discouraged in his offers of a new world, was proceeding to England, when he was stopped by a messenger sent by Isabela, who entreated him to come back, adding that she would favour his scheme. To the right lies Soto de Roma, the estate granted by Spain to the Duke of Wellington, and to the left Sierra Elvira. Branch road from Baena to Granada by Antequera, 12 leagues, one day's ride. Itinerary. Leagues. Cabra 3 Lucena 2 Benameji . . . . .3 Antequera .... 4 Cabra, 9000 inhab., is the ^Egabrum, Greek Aizagros from cabra montes a wild goat or chamois. Its sierra is celebrated for the production of valuable medicinal plants, and some that will be new to the botanist ; also for its marbles, jasper, and alabaster. The Sima (cavern) into which the ' Don Quixotic 1 hero, Caballero del Bosq^te ) leapt, is close by. It is about 140 yards long and was examined in 1841, when nothing was found but frogs. Sights. The Plaza de Armas is worthy of a visit. The tower of Homenage was built in the i4th century. In the Church de las Ascen- sion (formerly a mosque) are some curious pasos. Ask for the Virgen de la Soledad, by Juan de Mena, and a Saviour in silver. The extinct crater of Los Hoyones and the Cueva de Jarcas will interest geologists. The fruit grown in the neighbouring orchards is deli- cious, and the wine from the Pago de Rio Frio is excellent. Lucena. 17,000 inhab. This, the Roman Egitera, was granted with the former city by Alfonso XI. to his ' arnica.' The ogival church of San Mateo (1498), the house of the Medina- celis, are worthy of notice. It is surrounded by fields and orchards teeming with fruit (taste the apricots), corn, etc., and sheltered from the N. wind by the beautiful Sierra of Araceh. Not far is Benameji, with a fine bridge built 1556 by the Mariscal Diego de Bernin Orense. The rest of the route is most uninteresting. 8. From Seville. By rail vid Utrera, Marchena, Osuna and Bobadilla ; the most direct route. One train per day in a little over 8 hrs. First-class passengers go through without change. Half an hour's stay at Bobadilla, where fair buffet. Or if that portion of Andalucia has not yet been visited by rail vid Cordoba and Montilla. (See Cordoba.) Or, lastly, in the old-fash- ioned way, on horseback, in four days, across wild scenery and by poor roads. Fair stopping places en route, the road following the railway most of the way. Itinerary Leagues. Seville to Alcala de Guadaira . 2 Mairena 2 Marchena 5 Osuna 5 Pedrera 3 La Roda 2 Mollina . . . . .2 Antequera .... 2 Ventas de Archidona . . z Loja 3 Lachar t Santa Fe 2 Granada . ... 2 76 G RAN AD A ROUTES. 169 [If time allows, a visit to Ecija may be conveniently made in passing from Sevilla to Granada, either by road or rail. There is a branch line from Marchena, 44 kil., one train per day, both ways, in 1| hrs. There is also an excellent road from Carmona. Inn : Parador de las Diligencias. Pop. 25,000. This city was once the rival of Sevilla and Cordoba, but has long lost all importance. It is well built, however, and clean, with a couple of pretty alamedas, one or two interesting churches, and one of the finest bull- rings in Spain.] Description of Route. Leave Seville by Puerta de Carmona. Follow the aqueduct, A Icald de Guadaira, also called de los Pana- deros, because all Seville provides itself with the bread made here ; 7000 inhab., on right bank of the Guadaira. It was rebuilt by the Almahade Moors. The towers of its castle are a very interesting specimen of Moorish military architecture. It was the land-key of Seville, and surrendered to St. Ferdinand on Sept. 21, 1246, when its Moorish garrison, composed of the King of Jean's troops, traitorously turned against their own race within the city. There is little to see, beyond the church of San Sebas- tian, for the sake of the pictures by Pacheco, Velasquez's father-in-law ; that of Santiago pos- sesses a fino Purgatorio painted by the same, and the convent of Sta. Clara contains a good retablo and six small bassi-relievi by Montanes. Alcala de Guadaira (in Arab, the castle of the river Aira), supplies Seville with bread, most delicious, wholesome, and well-baked, and with water, for which the hill has been perforated with tunnels some 2 leagues long. The works are Roman and Moorish ; the aqueduct called Canos de Carmona is carried on 400 arches. The valley of the Guadaira is pleasant, the climate soft and delicious, and so salubrious that convalescents are often sent thither paratomar los aires. A little to the N.E. of Alcala is Gaundul, with its picturesque Moorish castle, amid palms and orange groves. We pass Mairena, where thejfcrza takes place every year on April 25th, 26th, and 27th, when it is the rendezvous of Chalanes (horse-dealers), gitanos, and majos ; the Carmona road is left on the left, and Marchena is reached. Marchena was the seat of the powerful house of Arcos (better known to the Spanish reader as Ponce de Leon). There are still a few cubes and turrets, only remains of the former formid- able fortifications of the Moors. The palacio of the Dukes of Arcos is sadly neglected. Ob- serve its fine fa9ade of the isth century, with its richly ornamented square portal, and its escutcheon with the two Herculeses and lion. There are some rooms with fine artesonado ceilings, a shady garden with fountains and ponds, etc. The Church of Sta. Maria, which is opposite, is Gothic ; it has three naves : the interior indifferent, and the boveda ill painted. The principal fa9ade and lateral one on the left of San Juan looks most Oriental with its azu- lejos, alminares, etc. The interior is divided into five naves ; the high altar dates of decline of Gothic, but is most effective ; the pictures are of no merit. There is a fine custodia (1586) by Francisco Alfaro. The dress of the women is curious. Osuna. 17,000 inhab. Inns: Del Caballo Blanco and Del Rosario. The seat of one of the most noble houses in Europe, la case dn Giron, of which the Duke of Osuna is the head. This, the Roman Gemina Urbanorum, was taken from the Moors in 1240, and given by Philip II. to Don Pedro Tellez Giron, and it became the appanage of his family. The Col- legiate Church was built in 1534, by a Giron, who also founded (1549) the University. The former charming terra cotta relievos on its W. fagade were destroyed by Soult's soldiers, great iconoclasts in their way. In the retablo are four pictures of Ribera. See the patio del Se- pulcro, berruguete-like, and a very fine Christ of Morales, retouched, in the sacristy. The Pantheon or burial-house of the Girones, some- what neglected. Flower amateurs will do well to look at the splendid carnation pinks here, called claveles. Roda. A decent posada. The country be- tween Pedrera and Venta de Archidona was the scene of Jose* Maria's fetes. The roads here are bad, but the scenery about Antequera, Archidona and Loja is very interesting. (See route from Gibraltar to Granada.) The Venta de Archidona, Cortijo de Cerezal, and Venta de Cobalea were Jose" Maria's favourite haunts, and are far-famed in bandido annals. Perfect security, how- ever, exists. N. B. Railway opened from Seville to Alcala and Cannoua. 170 GRANADA. GRANADA. ARMS OF GRANADA. City Arms, a Pomegranate, ' Granada' in Spanish, stalked and proper. Altitude. 2445 ft. above the sea. LatitTtde.yj* 52' N. Lat. 3 46' W. long., Greenwich. Population. 77,000 inhabitants. Hotels. 1. De la Alameda, very well situated, close to the Alameda and Carrera de Genii ; good accommoda- tion, fair cuisine, attendance indifferent, good exposure for winter ; small and large apartments; bedroom on the patio, 25r. , all included ; sitting-room ditto, 35r. ; bedroom on the street, 35r. ; sitting-room, 40r. Fire-places in most rooms ; clean beds and comfortable rooms. It has the inconvenience of a very noisy coffee-room in the interior of the house. 2. De la Victoria, in a square close to Carrera de Genii ; good exposure for summer, cold in winter, central situa- tion. Charges same as in the previous. 3. Hotel de los Siete Siwlos. Upon the Alhambra Hill, and within the gardens. Half an hour's drive from the station, but omnibus to meet all trains. Very comfortable. Pleasant company met with most of the year. Good guides. Either this or the hotel Washington Irving on the opposite side of the road (not quite so good, but English spoken) is very much to be preferred to any of the hotels in the city. Prices from 7| pesetas per day upwards, everything included. Lodgings; Houses to hire. We do not recommend tourists to stop at any casas de pupilos (the best, however, is that opposite the Hotel de la Victoria, 14r. to 20r., everything included), for all is discomfort and filth. There are several fine large houses to let be- longing to the nobility ; but we advise our readers most strongly, if they should intend making any sojourn, to take a villa near the Alhambra. Villas here are called cdrmenes (carmen, singular), from karm, Arabice a vineyard. The cicerones usually know of those unoc- cupied, although it must be borne in mind that they are in the interest of the hotels. They are often let unfur- nished, but hiring furniture is cheap and easy ; besides, little is required in such a climate as this. We can recom- mend a carmen called de Camara or de San Antonio, close to the Torres Ber- mejas, where several English families have lived. The house is small but comfortable; there are portions orna- mented in the style of the Alhambra. It was here Lady Louisa Tenison re- GRANADA \\ Scale afift English M A..lt, C. Black, EdiaVu: GRANADA. 171 sided for a long time ; she mentions it in her * Castile and Andalucia,' and says : * A more charming place than this for a summer residence it would be difficult to select ; and its vicinity to the Alhambra enabled us to enjoy the latter without the fatigue of as- cending to it from the town.' The usual terms are 500r. (about 5) a-month furnished. Cafes. El Suizo, Puerta Real ; Del Pasaje in the Zacatin ; Del Callejon in the Calle de los Mesones. Bankers. Rodriguez y Acosta, Calle de los Reyes Catolicos ; Hijos de Agrela, Calle de los Frailes. Casino. OIL the Carrera del Genii. Admission upon introduction by a member. Carriages stand at the Carrera and Plaza del Carmen tariff, the course, 6r. ; to any part of town, 12r., except to Alhambra and Generalise, to which lOr. extra ; to Albaicin or Monte Santo 20r. ex. Curiosity Shops. Pepa's and Mar- selan's are the best. Moorish scarfs and cloaks at Ribot's, 4 Calle de Zacatin. Photographs. A Capelini, close__to the Alhambra hotels. Theatres. El Principal, Plaza de Campillo ; De Isabel la Catolica, Plaza Santo Domingo. Post Office. Plaza del Carmen (or de Prim). Telegraph. Calle de la Duquesa, No. 1 4, second floor. English Vice-Consul and U.S. Con- sul resident here. General Description. Granada, like Toledo, Burgos, Oviedo, and most Spanish towns, is now but a dull, un- social, depopulated and inert provin- cial capital. There is about it, not- withstanding its sun and sky, an air of stillness and decay, a mournful silence, so peculiarly noticeable that the mind is filled with sad reveries, and almost led to sigh forth regret for the departed Goth or Moor, who left no heirs of their greatness behind them. Indeed, the whole of Spain is now but a vast cemetery, wherein the * disjecta membra' of the dead past lie buried in cities which are like so many tombs. Gra- nada is thus truly a living ruin, but as the widowed capital of the Moor full of interest. It carries us back from the present to the age of Ibn-1-Ahmar and of Yusuf, to the voluptuous magnifi- cence of their eastern palaces. This city stands on four hills, which are divided somewhat like a pome- granate, and rises to the height of 2245 ft. above the sea. It is situated at the extremity of a very extensive and beautiful plain (vega), and intersected by the rivers Darro (called by the Moors Hadar6h), the Roman Q alom, and the Genii or Singilis of the ancients. The town extends in an amphitheatre from the river, clothing the gradual ascent of the hills, which are crowned by the Alhambra. The plain, dotted now and then with sparkling whitewashed villas like so many sails, stretches to the base of the distant mountains, composed of the majestic Sierra Nevada (the Xolair of the Arabs), which, with towering snowy heights and Alpine peaks, con- trast beautifully with the deep blue sky above and the rich green meadows be- neath. To use the metaphoric expres- sion of the Granadine Arab poets, these mountains may be compared to a mass of sparkling mother-of-pearl, a picture never to be forgotten. The N". portion of the city, which was built after the conquest, is called Barrio de San Lazaro ; the principal street, Calle Real, leads to the Cartuja. Here were erected dwellings for the Moors, and barracks for troops to watch their movements. The Albaicin, so called from the fugitives from Baeza (when their city was taken by St. Ferdinand, 1227), is situated on a hill close to the former barrio. It once contained about 172 GRANADA. 10, 000 inhabitants, and beautiful houses and gardens. In the centre was a mag- nificent mosque, of which there are still some vestiges in the courtyard close to the Church of San Salvador. The Moors carried a stream from the Al- facar to the very heights of this hill, and provided the houses with fountains and a supply of water for the vines and gardens on the terraced slopes. It is now a ruinous locality, inhabited by the poor. Another and very early por- tion constitutes the Alcazaba, a line of fortresses formerly called Kadima, or the New ; the castle of Hysn-Al-Kroman stood here, and there are some remains of the ancient walls at the Puerta Monaita. Ascend the height of San Christoval to obtain a good view of the walls and cubos that extend from the Puerta Monaita to the Plaza Larga. The district of Antequeruela hangs over the Genii, and was so called because assigned to the Moors who fled from Antequera in 1410. The Churra, or Mauror (Arabice, district of the water- carriers), was also close by it, and on the slopes of the hill crowned with the Alhambra. The new portion of the city lies at the base of the different hills. There is little or nothing Euro- pean about the old town, and the Eastern, Moro-Andelusian aspect of its houses guarded with rejas, the many- coloured awnings stretched in summer over the balconies, the patios with fountains and orange-trees are very characteristic. Many of the houses are gaudily painted outside, the effect of which is not generally displeasing ; the streets are rather lanes, are purposely narrow and winding, to keep out the arrowy sunbeams of June and July. The new portion has been awkwardly built with wide streets and birdcage- like houses, with an infinity of windows. The principal streets are, Zacatin, Car- rera del Daro, and Calle Real. The Darro flows under the Plaza ]S"ueva, in- tersects the town, and joins the Genii at the extremity of the Carrera and Acera de Genii. The climate is wholesome, the water delicious and slightly aperient, the markets well provided, especially with vegetables and exquisite fruit, and living is very cheap. The name may have been originally applied by the Wisigoths, who probably rebuilt and enlarged the primitive for- tress. Cazidini, vol. ii. ; Maccari, vol. i.> both cited in Dozy's * Recherches,' say Garnathameans rommana (pomegranate in Arabic) in the Spanish tongue. Of the Wisigothic period, the only im- portant remains are the consecration- slabs of some churches built by the Wisigoth, Gidula, between the years 594 and 607. They were found on the site now occupied by the Church of Sta. Maria de la Alhambra, and have been placed on its southern fa9ade. The churches mentioned on the slabs were situated in a portion of the city, pro- bably the earliest, called Nativola. Sights. 1. The Alhambra, Gene- ralife, and Moorish remains. 2. Cathe- dral and Capilla de los Reyes. 3. Car- tuja, churches, hospitals, public and private edifices. 4. Zacatin, Alcaiceria, squares, gates, etc. Cathedral 8 A.M. to 12 P.M., and 2 P.M. to 4 P.M. To be shown it apply to the sacristan ; hours, 2 P.M. to 4 P.M. High mass, with organ and chanting, on Sundays, at 10 A.M. Capilla de los Reyes. 9 A. M. to 1 1 A.M. and after 4 P.M. Apply to the sexton at the special sacristy of this church. Cartuja. Closes late in the day. Apply to one of the sextons. Gfeneralife. Open all day. Apply to the gardener. See Plan of the Alhambra. The Alhambra. Open practically Reference 1 Puerto frvwi 2 defy Carril. 5 del Vbw 4 Patio de leiAJjba-ca (Fish 5 i' dale* Leones ( Sola del Tnemal 10 - de 11 , de la* do*Harmana*(2 Sitter, 12 * de h,* Sana.? (Satit*) 13 del 14 elf fa, 16 Palace of&nptrvr Carlo* V. 17 Jardin de LindaragcL def.Mumtr GRANADA -A LHAMBR A. 173 at all hours, but permission of Senor Contreras, the Conservator, necessary for visit after dark. A small fee given to attendant for the first visit only. Situation. The Alhambra is situated to the extreme N. of the town, and be- tween the Darro and Genii, which it divides, rises a long single ridge, called El Cerro del Sol, and also de Sta. Elina. At a point called La Silla del Moro, which is close to Generalife, the Cerro slopes downwards, and after being cleft in twain by a wooded ravine, is inter- sected by a long avenue of elm-trees. It then spreads out into two tablelands or extensive terraces, bordered by pre- cipitous ravines. On the western ter- race stands the Alhambra, its base washed by the Darro. The Torres Bermejas rise on the extreme point of the eastern esplanade, occupied, further- more, by the Campo de los Martires, the declivities of which, being less violent than those of the one opposite, fall gently towards the town, a part of which they become. These two terraces were formerly girt by walls and towers, and connected with each other by winding, and, maybe, walled-in lanes. Within this fortified circuit stood the palaces and villas of the Kalifs of Gra- nada, as well as the principal fortresses ; and so numerous were the buildings clustering on these heights that it was called a city Medinah alhamra. The magnificent palace of the Alijares, cele- brated for its gardens, was situated not far from Generalife, and close to a sum- mer villa, Daralharoca (Arabice, the Bride's Mansion). Besides those and the Dar-Al-Wad, or Palace on the River, Chateau d'Eau, where there was an aviary on which account it is called by Marmol ' Casa de las Gallinas ' there were many other villas belonging to the sultans and their court, all situated without the fortifications ; but the Hadhira, or Court of the Kalifs, within ,he walls and on the western plateau, instituted the Alhambra proper, or vhat is still often called ' La Casa Real.' Historical Notice. The name Alham- a is a very early one, anterior to the palace that we familiarly call so. As iarly as A.D. 864-5 it is mentioned in Ibn-1' Alabbar's biography of Suwar Ibn Hamdun (who commanded the Arabs against the besieging forces of Mulades and Mostarabes). In some verses copied by the same, which were composed by Said Ebn Chudi, and ad- dressed by him to Suwar, he praises the latter for having erected the Red Castle, Kal'at Al-hamra ; and during the siege already mentioned, the besiegers one day shot over the walls an arrow, to which was tied a paper with the fol- lowing verses, which were written by Abderrhaman Ibn Ahmed of Abla : Deserted and roofless are the houses (of our enemies), swept by the whirlwinds of dust that the tempestuous winds raise up. Let them within the red castle hold their mischievous councils ; the dangers of war and woe surround them on every side. The sons of those that our lances transfixed on their tottering walls will also disappear, etc.* The author asserts that he was told this fact by one Obada, who in his turn had obtained the intelligence from an eye-witness. This Kal'at Alhamra may be no other than the Torres Ber- mejas (Red Towers), which were pro- bably so called when they were used by the Jews as a fortress, the name being derived from the colour of the ferruginous tapia-work. In A.D. 1019- 20, Habus Ibn Makesen erected a Kas- sabah, or fortified enclosure which this Arab word signifies which stood on the "W. side of the town, over the Puerta de Elvira, and was called Kadimah, or the 'old' to distinguish it from the * Ibn Hayyan 'History of Mohammedan Spain,' Bodleian Library, Hunt. No. 464. 174 GRANADA ALHAMBRA. Jedidah, or ' new ' one, built by Badis, his successor (1037-8 A.D.), and which extended from the former to the Darro. The Alcazaba, properly so called, formed part of the Kassabah erected by Badis Ibn Habus, within which this king, having removed his court from Elvira to Granada, usually resided with his wazirs and officers, and it subsequently continued to be the place of residence appointed to the governors of Granada. This Kassabah received in addition to its appellation of Al-hamra, the name of the Kal'at (now Torres Bermejas Fortress) which could be as justly applied to all the buildings within this Medinah, as the colour of the earth on and with which they were built, was eventually the same, owing to the pre- sence of oxide of iron. The founder of the Masrite dynasty, Ibn-1-Ahmar, enlarged considerably the former palace erected by Badis, within the Kassabah, and built a new portion, which he determined should surpass in magnificence the most celebrated edifices of the kind in Damascus, Fez, and Baghdad. The works began about 1248, and the palace was called Kasru- i-hamra, which means the Sultan's Mansion (Kasr being a corruption of Kaiser, Caesar) or the palace of the Alhambra. Thus it is as erroneous to suppose that the name comes from this prince's (as it would then have been called Kasr-al-hamra) as it is that he was the origin of the Al-hamares ; in- deed no such tribe or clan ever existed. Ibn-1-Ahmar's son and successor, Mo- hammed II., continued his father's work, and repaired the fortifications of the Castle of Torres Bermejas ; according to Ibnu-1-Khattib, the royal historio- grapher of Granada, 'he added con- siderably to the building, and lavished his treasures upon the several artists he employed to decorate its gilded halls.' Isma'il Ibn Faraj (1300) built the little mosque within the palace. Yusuf I. (Abu-1-hajaj), ob. 1354, whose revenues were so vast that he was reputed to owe his riches to the transmutation of metals, spent these on the building of many new suites of apartments in the palace, and in repainting, gilding, and repairing of the older portions. Ac- cording to Ibnu-1-Khattib, quoted by Sr. Gayangos, the gold was procured from the interior of Africa, and beaten into thin strips ; the expense of the new works and repairs exceeded, says the same author, the bounds of calcula- tion. After the surrender of Granada, the Catholic kings remained but a very short time at the Alhambra, which be- came the property of the crown, formed an independant jurisdiction, and a separate parish. When they left, they intrusted its custody to Don Inigo Lopez de Mendoza, Count of Tendilla, who had been appointed governor or alcaide on the very day of the surrender of the Moors. Under Isabella and Ferdinand, the monks and soldiers who were left in and around the mosques and fortresses of the hated Moor, who had threatened their altars and disputed their castles for so many centuries, vented their spite and hatred upon the inoffensive stone and iron. The open- work was filled up with whitewash, the painting and gilding effaced, the furni- ture soiled, torn, removed, and never replaced. Charles V. rebuilt portions in the modern style of the period, and destroyed what was fortunately an unimportant part to make room for his intended and never finished palace. Philip Y. Italianised the rooms, and completed the degradation by run- ning up partitions which blocked up whole rooms, gems of taste and patient ingenuity, and concealed the Tarkisli and azulejoa under such deep coats of whitewash that the pickaxe is necessary GRANADA ALHAMBRA. 175 to remove it. It became subsequently an asylum for debtors and state prisoners ; the French in 1810-12 turned it into barracks and magazines for their troops. The magnificent Moorish mosque, Mesjid Aljami, that was built by Mohammed III. in the early part of the 14th century, was destroyed by the French. According to Ibnu-1-Khattib it was considered to have no rival in the world. The French blew up several towers, and if the whole Alhambra which they had mined was not blown up, it was not their merit, but due to the courage of a corporal of invalidos, who put out the fusees. The gobernadores, before and after this period, until re- cently, speculated on the interest and curiosity that was daily awakening for the Alhambra, and made their fortunes, selling what could be easily removed, and all went on fast to utter ruin. In 1842, by the care of the Progresista minister, Arguelles, a miserable sum was destined from the queen's privy purse for repairs ; somewhat later the sum of 10,000r. (100) was assigned and ill paid. Things now, however, looked brighter ; and on her visit to Granada, which took place in 1862, the Queen Isabelle was so struck with her visit to the Alhambra that she de- termined to repair and restore it as much as possible to its former state, and enacted measures calculated to realise that royal and generous resolu- tion. The repairs were entrusted to Sr. Don Rafael Contreras, a native of Granada, whose zeal and patriotic enthusiasm towards the completion of this work can only be compared with his perfect know- ledge and acquaintance with Moorish art. Much has been already achieved, and in a manner highly creditable. The Patio de la Alberca, Sala de De- scanso, and Sala de las Dos Hermanas are finished, and likewise several por- tions in the Hall of Comares or Ambas- sadors, Council Hall (del Tribunal), and Court of Lions ; and he has but recently found out, so to speak, another beautiful hall, the walls of which, ex- quisitely painted and gilt, were con- cealed under plaster. (Consult Sr. Contreras' ' Estudio Descriptive de los Monumentos Arabes de Granada Se villa y Cordoba,' Madrid, 1883). Style. The general style of the Al- hambra belongs to the third period of Moorish architecture. It is want- ing in that unity of design, typical forms, lofty inspiration, and breadth, for which the Mosque of Cordova and other edifices of that time are so remarkable. The early phase in Moorish art, of which the latter were the growth, arose with a peculiar state of civilisation, marked by an ascetic and stern spirit which shunned vain ornament, scorned frivolous effects, and sought rather vast proportions, simplicity, harmony, strength true signs of power and genius. Now, at the time when the Alhambra was raised, the dissolution of the Moslem empire had already begun, and en- gendered a similar state of decadence among architects, and oblivion of the primary principles of their art. Thus whilst the edifices of Cordova were the work of an age of mosques and fort- resses (of conquest and unity of faith), the Alhambra must be looked upon as the salient example of an age of pa- laces, which was also one of religious indifference. The Berber and invading Arab built massively to root deeply, as it were, a new race, that settled by main force in the enemy's land, whilst the more refined Granadine, who had be- come the permanent possessor, sought rather to embellish and enjoy the dearly-won kingdom, peopling it with marble palaces, gardens, and groves. Exaggeration in the outlines of arches, 176 GRAN AD A A LHAMBKA. excess of ornamentation (that sure test of decadence in art), an exuberance of relievi or surface-decorations, paltry proportions, generalisation and abuse of plaster arches and walls such are the most characteristic defects which a hypercritical spirit may discover in the construction of the Alhambra. But granting all this, granting, too, the lack of originality and absence of monumental stonework, it will yet be preferred by the generality of travellers to any other Moorish struc- ture in Spain, for it must be admitted that it stands unrivalled in the gorgeous splendour of its halls, and that no- where, nor at any time, has its decora- tive art been exceeded. This is shown in that taste, effeminate elegance, ex- quisite grace, wonderful variety of the patterns all most cunningly executed. Happy and novel appliances of poetical concetti and Alcoranic passages to en- hance and form part of the ornamenta- tion ; airy lightness, veil-like trans- parency of filagree stucco, partitions coloured and gilt like the sides of v a Stamboul casket such, with many others, are the main features of this the worthy palace of the voluptuous khaliffs of Granada, who held dominion over the sunny land which their poets defined 'a terrestrial paradise.' De- scriptions of what it must have been once can only be found in the ' Arabian Nights,' though even in this respect, reality, no doubt, must have beggared their fantastical creations. Everything interests us in the Al- hambra, for besides the intrinsic value as a monument of this romantic pile, how many poetical legends of love and war, how many associations has it with stirring scenes of harem dramas, politi- cal intrigues, and bloody executions. Entrances. The principal entrances into the Medinah Alhambra were for- merly the Gate of the Law, of the Seven Stories of the Catholic Kings of the Armoury, and Bab-'el-Ujar ; that of Los Coches and Puerta de Hierro are modern. We shall proceed by the steep Calle de los Gomeres, which is terminated by the clumsy, massive Puerta de las Granadas, so called from the pomegranates that are placed over it, and are the canting arms of the city. This gate, an awk- ward monument of the Tuscan style, was built under the reign and by order of Charles V. , when the avenues inside were laid out, and intended to lead up to his palace. It is on the site of the Moorish gate of Bib, or Bab-el-Ujar. At each extremity is a reclining figure, much disfigured, and intended to sym- bolise Peace and Plenty. This once passed, we enter the jurisdiction of the Alhambra. Three avenues lie before us : the main one in the centre leads up to Generalife ; the narrow one, on the right, winds up to the Torres Ber- mejas, which rise high above in that direction. By a more precipitous ascent to the left, we will proceed at once to the principal entrance, the Gate of Judgment. N.B. We advise tourists, and ladies especially, to go up in a carriage as far at least as this last-named point, as the ascent is steep and long, and one ar- rives to the top heated and fatigued, just when all the attention and activity are required. The grounds of the Alhambra are woody, and at spring-time full of sweet- scented wild flowers, which numerous rills of snow-water, gushing from the Sierra, keep up green and blossoming. Flocks of nightingales seek at that season the shade of the secluded bowers, and their joyous songs blend with the murmur of fountains and the buzz of myriads of insects. These so- called gardens, weedy and ravined as GRANADA ALHAMBRA. 177 they be, are a most charming resort in the sultry hours of spring and summer, and a place of untiring enjoyment. Filar de Carlos V. (Quinto). This small and now degraded fountain is placed against the wall, close to the Gate of Justice. It was erected for the Emperor Charles V. by the then Al- eaide of the Alhambra, Marquis of Mondejar. The style is the Graeco- Roman, or rather Tuscan, which was beginning to be adopted in Spain. The stone is from Sierra Elvira. The crowned heads of the genii are intended to represent the Darro, Genii, and Beiro which fertilise the vega. Observe the escutcheons of the house of Monde- jar, and the mezzo -relievo ornaments, the emperor's shield, marine genii, dol- phins, and the columns of Hercules. The wall against which it rests is 90 ft. long by 15 ft. high, and ornamented with Doric pillars. Between these are four medallions with mythological sub- jects. It is a fine specimen of the berrueguete style, although the Escuzar stone being over-porous and sandy, the medallions cannot be seen to advantage. Juan de Mena was employed in some portions, but certainly the genii were not his work. It was completed in 1624, and has been well repaired by the governor, Sr. Parejo. Puerta Judiciaria(Gate of Judgment). This is a plain, massive, and somewhat clumsy monument, which served as an outwork to the fortress and an arch or entrance-hall to the Alhambra, but was principally used as, and expressly built for, an open-air court of justice, held, as usual in the East, by the khalife or his kaid, whose duties as pontiff (Emyr- al-Moumenyn, king and chief magis- trate, made it incumbent upon him to give audience to the humblest of his subjects, settle disputes, and dispense judgment personally. This patriarchal custom is still prevalent in most cities N in the East, and was, with many others, received by the Arabs from the Hebrews ('Judges shalt thou make in all thy gates,' Deut. xvi. 18 ; and also, 'Then he made a porch where he might judge, even the porch of judgment,' 1 Kings vii. 7. In the book of Job xxix. 7, 8, 9, the patriarchal magnate is re- presented as going forth to the ' gate, ' amidst the respectful silence of elders, princes, and nobles, (xxxii. 9, and Ruth iv. 2). Hence came the usage of 'la Sublime Porte' in speaking of the Government of Constantinople, being considered also places of public deliberation and halls to give audience to ambassadors. ('Early Travels'). Over the arch runs an inscription in African letters, which records its elevation by Abu-1-walid Yusuf, and the date, 1348. It is there called the ' Gate of the Law, ' and ' a monument of eternal glory. ' It is one of the many buildings erected in the Alhambra by its great decorator, the Khalife Yusuf I., who was their architect himself. The tower is almost a perfect square, measuring about 47 ft. wide by 62 ft. high. The horseshoe arch is 28 ft. high to the hand which is engraven above it. The marble sculptured pil- lars on each side of the gate are termi- nated by capitals ornamented with sculpturing, and bearing the following inscription : ' There is no God but Allah : Mo- hammed is the envoy (prophet) from Al-lah. There is no power or strength but in Al-lah.' The walls are built with limestone from Loja and Sierra Elvira in concrete or tapia-work. Over the outer horse- shoe arch is part of an. arm, with out- stretched hand placed upwards, which, according to some writers, is considered typical of the five principal tenets of the Mussulman's creed : 1. Belief in God and Mohammed. 2, To pray (and 178 GRANADA ALHAMBRA. ablutions). 3. To give alms. 4. To keep the fast of Rhamadan. 5. Pil- grimage to Mekka and Medina. The number of the commandments corre- sponding with that of the fingers, as we read in Deut. vi. 8, speaking of the commandments, * And thou shalt bind them for a sign upon thine hand, and they shall be as frontlets between thine eyes. ' But it is more likely that the hand was placed on the entrance, as is now the custom (and we have often seen it so) on every door in Morocco, to avert the evil eye. Probably both these meanings must be understood to be combined in this symbol.* The small image of the Virgin in a niche over the arch is indifferent and of wood. Turning on the staircase before the second doorway is the place where the khalife sat to give judgment. Here is a guardroom, and the soldiers you see may have been some of the brave Spanish army, who but a few years ago defeated the descendants of the founders of these very walls round * This superstition was shared by every nation of the earth. Virgil, in his third ^Eneid, says : Vix ossibus hserent : Nescio quis teneros oculus mihi fascinat agnos. And there was also the superstition concerning knots made in a particular manner, and said to have been breathed upon by Jewish sorcerers. Mohammed himself was bewitched by a Jew, who held a thread over a well with eleven knots on it ; the mystery of which was revealed to him by the angel Gabriel, and which led to his writing the usth and ii4th Suras, called 'the preserving.' These were inscribed on amulets, and hung round the neck. The first acted as a talisman against evils to the body, and the se- cond preserved the soul from all danger. Similar hands in coral, sufficiently small to wear round the neck, are found in Naples ; and in Tangier, Tetouan, and other cities in Morocco, rings and ear-rings are sold with a golden or silver hand upon them. According to Pedraza, ' Hist, de Granada,' and Argote, ' Paseos,' vol. ii., the use of these and other suchlike amulets by the Moors was prohibited in 1526 by order of Charles V. and his mother, DoSa Juana. which they now keep sentry, for in Spain the Moor seems destined never to die. Over the second arch is a key sculp- tured another symbol of the power granted to the Prophet to open or shut the gates of heaven. In one of the Suras it is distinctly said : ' Did not Al-lah give him the keys with the rank of doorkeeper, that he (the Prophet) should be entitled to usher in the elected ones? a statement whose ori- gin is evidently to be found in the Christian's New Testament. The key was also a sign of knowledge and of power, and was used as a badge by the Moors soon after they had invaded Spain, and occurs more than once over doors within the Alhambra. The cham- berlains of the kings of Spain wear a gold key on their coats, a mark of their office. The passages between the outer and inner gate are winding and tortu- ous, as appears in many other outworks of the same kind, either Arab or medi- aeval, and were so contrived to check the advancing foe in his entrance, and augment the means of defence. The three inner arches were built with brick, and angular forms, and an empty space of about six yards was left from the turrets to the door, the latter made with an opening over it to facilitate throwing all sorts of projectiles. The words in the inscription, 'May God make this (the gate) a protecting bul- wark,' together with its massiveness and position, do not leave a doubt as to its being intended also as the key to a powerful line of defence. The door consists of two leaves, strengthened by iron plates, closed with peculiar locks, and fastened with transverse metal bars. Turning now sharply to the right, we pass an altar placed in the wall, with an indifferent painting represent- ing the Virgin and Child. Although GRANADA ALHAMBRA. 179 asserted by some too credulous and most ignorant admirers to be the replica of the identical portrait of the Virgin Mary, painted by St. Luke, the mere fact of its being in oil colours is enough to contradict such a statement, without entering into the style, draperies, etc. On the wall to the right is an inscrip- tion, on a marble slab, which records the conquest of Granada, and appoint- ment of Count Tendilla as its governor (alcaide). Plaza de los Algibes (Place of the Cisterns). The walled-in plateau or terrace on which the Alhambra stands is the highest hill of the four on which Granada has been built, and commands the town and plain, from which it is divided by the Darro. It is 2430 feet long by 674 ft. in its widest part. The red walls, 6ft. thick by 30 high, on an average, girdle the hill on the E. side, linked and strengthened by buttresses and towers, many of which formed the detached residences of sultanas and great officers. If you stand on the pla- zuela which is in front of the Church of San Nicolas, and from which the best view of the Alhambra is to be ob- tained, you will notice clearly the long lines of irregularly -built walls following the sinuosities of the ground, termi- nating on the left by the Tower de las Infantas, and followed up to the right by the Torre de la Cautiva, de los Picos, portions of the Tower of the To- cador, rising somewhat more than the rest, and hanging over the romantic ravine. Of the three separate portions, the first on the left is composed of the Torre de Comares and the palace ; at the extreme right is the Alcazaba, or fortress, with its dismantled castle, and in the space between, the Plaza de los Algibes, on which the palace of Charles III. rises, extending its square un- broken lines a little to the left (see plan). The aspect of the exterior of those towers is severe, plain, and of uniform structure, yet far from appearing mono- tonous. The effect is most picturesque, and the deep orange colouring contrasts happily with the emerald green slopes. The simplicity and absence of orna- mentation and windows were intended to guard off the three greatest enemies of the Moor heat, the evil eye, and the enemy's projectile. This plaza is truly an epitome of the history of Spain, and evidence in stone of its changing dy- nasties, races, and creeds. The vestiges that remain of Illiberis mark the Ro- man period, as the Torres Bermejas and Puerta del Sol recall, though vaguely, the Carthaginian's rule. By the side of the Mussulman's eastern palace rises the Tuscan palace of the German Charles Y. ; the parish church of Sta. Maria is on the site of the former mosque, and close to the still standing Mihrab, now called Puerta del Vino. The crumbled walls of towers and devastation of the gardens are a memorial of Bonaparte's soldiers ; and the line of hovels, the residence of oily, vacant, ill-fed, and ill-paid ein- pleados, together with the ruinous walls, never propped up, are but too plainly characteristic of Spanish ne- glect. The Plaza de los Algibes is so called from the cisterns or tanks which receive the waters of the Darro, and are about 125 ft. long by 25 ft. broad. They are deep, built with vaults and horse-shoe arches. A draw-well in the comer of the square is used to raise the water, which is carried by aguadores into the town, and is much esteemed for its freshness and purity. The plaza is about 225 ft. long by 187 ft. wide. To the left rises the fortress of the Al- hambra, the Kassabah, and to the right the Puerta del Vino, the palace of Charles V., and almost behind the Casa Real, or palace of the. Moors. 180 GRANADA ALHAMBRA. We advise our readers to leave the Tuscan Palace and Alcazaba, for the end of their visit, and proceed at once to the Alhambra, after a glance at the Puerto, del Vino (Gate of the Wine}. So designated because there was here, probably, a storehouse for the pellejos or skins of wine which were brought from Alcala. Here, too, was the chief entrance of the town of the Alta Alham- bra, with the house of the Kadi, and minor palaces of the aristocratic hangers- on to the Court. This puerta is most massive and beautiful. Notice especi- ally the azulejos of the posterior arch. It was built by Mohammed Y. The inscription over the arch begins : * I flee to God for protection from Satan, the pelted with stones.* In the name of God, the merciful and compassionate. May the blessing of God rest on our lord and master Mohammed, and upon his family and followers.' Then follow the 1st, 2d, and 3d verses of the 48th Sura of the Koran, and praises to the Sultan Abu, Abdil- lah, Al-gani, Bil-lah (the contented with God), who erected this monument. palate 0f % gJjjamljra:. The palace proper, as will be seen at a glance, oc- cupied but a very small corner of the great Alhambra enclosure. There were, besides, the Alcazaba, occupying the whole of the western extremity, and the town of the Alta Alhambra, on the south and east, capable of containing some 20,000 souls. (It had a popula- tion of 6000 as late as the year 1625.) The palace or rather palaces, for there were three of them (1) the older, mez- quita portion, on the west ; (2) the central Court of the Berkah and the * This expression, which often recurs in in- scriptions in the Alhambra, is found in the Koran. According to a tradition among the Moors, Abraham being often molested by the repeated temptations of the devil, was wont to take up stones and pelt the intruder, who then withdrew, struck, we suppose, with so weighty an argumentum ad . . . diabolum. rooms lying to the north of it ; (3) the Lion Court and all its dependencies hung over the Darro, and the princi- pal entrance was by a zaguan lead- ing past the mosque into the Court of the Berkah. The present entrance is by a small, insignificant door, placed at the S.W. corner of the Court of the Berkah, and which is reached through a narrow lane formed by the palace of Charles V. on the right, and the partly modern and partly Moorish house in- habited by the gobernador. Entering a small corridor, a staircase to the left leads up to the functionary's haUta- ciones, which have been repaired, but possess little interest. The archives of the Alhambra are kept here, as well as two slabs of white marble exquisitely sculptured ; they are erroneously called Mesas tables and from the inscrip- tion were probably placed in the wall or over some arch in a mihrab or mosque. The other table has no inscription except the well-known * Wa la ghaliba- illa- Allah, ' * There is no conqueror but God.' This corridor has been modernised, but bears traces here and there of the Moorish period. There are some elegant arches and exquisite niches, erroneously called babucheros (from babuche, slip- pers) by Echavarria and others, who assert that the slippers, which in the East are always left on entering a habi- tation, were placed inside. It is an im- memorial Eastern custom : * And he said : Draw not nigh hither ; put off thy shoes from off thy feet, for the place whereon thou standestis holy ground.' (Exodus iii. 5. and Josh. v. 15, etc.) From their usual inscriptions, and being usually placed within the inner apartments, together with what we have seen so often in Morocco, there is no doubt that they were used to hold porous al-carrazas, full of fresh water. GRANADA ALHAMBRA. 181 and lights placed in crystal cases or transparent porcelain. Now, turning to the right, we shall enter the Patio de la Berkah, or de los Arra- ganes (Court of the Blessing, or of the Myrtles). Although some authors have derived the Spanish designation alberca from al-beerkeh, a tank, a pond, we think the derivation from berkdh, the blessing, applies more accurately to this court, because it was used for ablutions by the royal family, and all others who were present at the zalah held in the private mosque of the pa- lace, which is close by. This patio is 140 ft. long by 74 ft. broad, of an ob- long form. In the centre is a large pond, set in the marble pavement, and now full of goldfish. Along the sides are edges of myrtles, carefully trimmed, and kept low, and the court hence has often been called * de los Arrayanes ' (Arrabice, arr-ayan, myrtle). There are galleries on the N. and S. sides ; that on the right as you go in (the S.) is 27 ft. high, and is supported by a marble colonnade ; over this gallery rises a second, forming a sort of entresol, 8 ft. high to the ceiling. Underneath it, to the right, was one of the en- trances ; the door was inutilizada, as the Spaniards graphically express it, when Charles V.'s palace blocked up all that side. Over it are three elegant windows with arches, and six miniature pillars ; the two large niches at the extremities are 3 ft. deep, and deli- cately ornamented with oval arches, resting on white Macael marble. The azulejos under the niches, that rise about 1 \ ft. from the floor, ran formerly along the walls of the rest of this court, and are of a pretty pattern. The eight pillars supporting the gallery, and close to the mosque, are of great lightness, and the ornamentation of the capitals varies in each. Arches, slender and pliant like palms, spring from the capi- tals, and bend most gracefully one towards another until they meet. At the base of each, which is divided into four sides, are medallions, with the words, ' Perpetual Salvation,' in Cufic characters. The ceiling of the galleries is plain, inlaid with wood carved into angular patterns, all of which used to be painted and gilt ; the external orna- mentation of the gallery is formed by a stucco tapestry, interwoven with flowers and leaves ; the walls are high, and were tolerably restored in 1842. Observe the six oval doors and agimez windows. The upper gallery was re- stored by Senor Contreras, the father, we believe, of Don Rafael. The tank is a parallelogram, 124 ft. long, and 27 ft. wide, and 5 ft. deep ; at each extremity is a tazza of white marble, from which the water oozes rather than flows into the reservoir. This court was built by Ibn-1-Ahmar, but richly decorated, painted, and gilt by Yusuf I. Like most of the halls and courts in this palace, this one has been the scene of many a deadly deed of vengeance and jealousy. Mohammed III., who had hastened to Granada on hearing the report of the presumed death of the usurper Nasr, was astonished, on alighting at the gate of the Alhambra, to find that Nasr had recovered from the apoplectic fit which had caused the report to be spread. Mohammed was instantly seized and confined in a dungeon, whence he was removed to this court, executed, and his body thrown into the pond, April 1311. From this court the imposing walls of the Torre de Comares are seen rising over the roof and to the N". This tower and the colonnades are reflected in the crystal mirror of the water, and truly ' lend enchantment to the view. ' Optical effects, produced by water, light and shade, and combined gradual elevation, with an almost insensible 182 GRANAD; ALHAMBRA. inequality in the floors of apartments, were often most happily treated and rendered by Moorish architects. This must have been a fairy entrance into a palace, when it was sparkling all over with gilding and vivid colours. The shield of the Moorish kings of Granada recurs very often. It is a plain escut- cheon with a bend, once red, and the motto, ' THERE is NO CONQUEROR BUT GOD. ' This is the origin of the motto and shield. Ibn-1-Ahmar, who had been the vassal of Ferdinand, was present at the surrender of Seville, and contributed to the victory obtained by the Christians. On his way back to Granada, where he had determined to build the Al-hamra, his subjects, who held him in great veneration, greeted him, Galib, the conqueror, to which he replied, ' Wa la ghalib ilia Al-lah' * There is no conqueror but God.' According to another legend, on the eve of the battle of Alarcos, which proved fatal to the Christians, an angel appeared in the heavens, riding a spark- ling white horse, and waving in his hand a flag which reached from pole to pole, and bore these same words. As modest a reply was made by the Black Prince, after the battle of Nagera, * Thank me not, but rather praise God, for His, not mine, is the victory.' Ibn-1-Ahmar, on his being knighted by St. Ferdinand, adopted this motto (mote) on his coat-of-arms, which was heraldically a field, ore and Bend argent, with the above motto sable, but the bend and field varied at differ- ent periods. The real origin may be, that it was the tahlil, or war-cry of the Prophet, and was inscribed on the standard of Yacub-al-Mansiir, at the battle of Alarcos. ^g* "We do not follow strictly the course of the cicerone porter. Ante-Sala de Embajadores (Ante- Gallery to the Hall of Ambassadors}. Sometimes called de la Barca (of the boat), from the figure of the room. This is a very elegant and well-pre- served specimen. The azulejos are fine. At each side of the entrance, which is very elaborate, is a small niche ; that on the right has a pretty poem, in all the Oriental gallantry. The roof is bespangled with stars and other pat- terns, coloured. It was shattered in 1590. In the angles there is charming stalactical work, with miniature pillars, Lilliputian cupolas, half-moons, and the words, * Blessing, ' ' Salvation, ' ' God alone the Conqueror, ' * Glory be to our Lord Abu Ab-dillah.' On each side are recesses, 22 ft. high, 9| ft. wide, and supported by eight pillars, the capitals of which are formed by escutcheons. Sala de Embajadores (Hall of Am- bassadors. Is the largest in the Al- hambra, and occupies all the Tower of Comares. It is a square room, 37 ft. by 75 ft. high to the centre of the dome. This was the grand reception- room, and the throne of the sultan was placed opposite the entrance. Observe the azulejos, nearly 4 ft. high all round, the colours of which vary at intervals. Over this is a series of oval medallions with Cufic inscriptions interwoven with flowers and leaves ; there are nine win- dows, three on each faade. The arte- sonado is very fine, and rests on a wooden cornice ; the ceiling, of alerce wood, is admirably diversified with inlaid work of distinct colours, espe- cially white, blue, and gold, made in the shape of circles, crowns, and stars, a sort of imitation of the vault of heaven. The recesses of the windows are small cabinets in themselves, such is the thickness of the walls. The shutters and balconies were added by Charles Y., and the view from them, is splendid. From the one looking on the Darro, Ayeshah is said to have let down GRANADA ALHAMBRA. 183 Boabdil in a basket, to save him from her rival Zoraya's relentless vengeance, and Charles V., leaning out of one, is said to have exclaimed, as he beheld the glorious panorama spread at his feet, 'Ill-fated the man who lost all this !'* In the embrasures of the two north windows there may be studied the finest remnants of the old work in the whole palace the best inlaid azulejos, the richest bits of blue, ver- milion and gold colouring, and the most delicate column caps. Over the arch of entrance, and between the ornaments, runs the inscription: * GLORY be given to our lord,AbulHachach. May God help him in his en- terprise.' And round the niche to the right the in- scription : ' Praise to the only God. I will remove upon Yusuf the malefice of the evil eye, ' with five sentences : ' Say, I flee to the Lord of the rising sun, thanks (be given) to God,' etc. ' Praise be to God,' etc. The inscrip- tion round the one on the right is almost identical. This hall is also called Sala de Comares, because its peculiar workmanship resembled that at Coina- rech in Persia, and the artists employed came purposely from that country. The present roof was a sub- stitute for the original of wonderful stalactite work in stucco, but which fell down along with an arch made of mother-of-pearl, jasper, and porphyry. The ceilings of the window-recesses are plain, of inlaid wood, and badly re- stored. The balconies were added in 1632. Their use was not known to the Moors. The floor was of beautiful alabaster, and it is said there was an alabaster fountain in the centre. At the end of 5th century there was a partial restoration of the gilding and painting. This magnificent hall, the work of Ibn- 1-Ahmar, is higher, more solid and grandiose than the rest, and of a differ- ent period in the style and epoch. The walls seem to be covered with an infinity of guipures placed over each other. Patio de losLeones (Court of tTie I/tons.) This celebrated portion of the palace has been almost completely restored by Sr. Contreras with very great taste and COURT OF THE LIONS. ability. Although possessing as charac- teristics the most exquisite elegance in all its parts, it has not the imposing, majestic, and elevated style of the Hall of Ambassadors, and is attributed to other architects. It was built in 1377 by Mohammed, who, after being de- throned by Ismael, was a second time replaced on the throne with the aid of Don Pedro the Cruel, who murdered the 184 GRANADA ALHAMBRA. king, his former ally, at Tablada, close to Seville. According to Cean Bermu- doz, 'Arquit.,' vol. i., the architect was called Aben Concind. It is neverthe- less a perfect model of Moorish patio architecture. Observe those open-work circular galleries to keep off the sun ; the lightness in the columns, the sym- metry in the proportions, variety in the patterns, and filigree - worked walls through which the blue heaven is seen, filling the interstices with colour as if it were painted. The court is an hypaethral quadrilateral oblong of 126 feet (Spanish) long by 73 feet wide, and 224 feet high under the galleries. It is surrounded by a low gallery, which is supported on 124 white marble columns, not counting the four em- bedded in the inner walls. The width between the walls and the pillars in the galleries is 74 feet. The pillars here are irregularly placed ; alternate- ly isolated and in pairs. A pavilion projects into the court at each ex- tremity, most elaborately ornamented and made with filigree walls ; the domed roofs are very light and of that shape so poetically and justly called by those sons of the Arabs, the Spaniards, medias naranjas; they are surmounted by a spear with a flow- ing horsehair, surmounted by the cres- cent. There are three stalactite arches on each side, which have three columns at the angles and two single ones be- tween each cluster. The ornamentation of the inner walls has almost all disap- peared. It consisted of a cenefa, or fringe, of azulejos running up from the pavement, and then covered by stucco diaper varying in pattern at each mo- ment, and not unlike that in the Comares Hall. Observe the effect of the tiles, coloured in different hues, and the painted and gilt shafts projecting, and called canes. The capitals are of differ- ent patterns, and were coloured and gilt. The irregularity of the pillars was in- tended, and the result of study of effects. The fringe of the centre arch of the court is formed of the stalactite bricks placed radiating to the centre, supported by a charming bracket, which is a beau- tiful example of the constructive idea carried out in the decoration of the sur- face. The design of the * lozenge ' in the arches is most judicious ; it is so arranged that by the repetition of a single tile, two or three patterns grow out of the combination. The capitals of the columns show various transitions in forms, but all gradual, and the con- structive idea is never lost sight of. Over the capitals is the Cufic inscrip- tion, ( God alone the Conqueror.' The ornament on the piers contains in centre the shield of the founder, surrounded by the word ' Grace.' The main lines of the pattern are admirably adapted for giving height to the piers. The general form of the piers, arches, and columns, is most graceful ; the mere outline of the voids and solids is perfect. The side arches are stilted, and struck from two centres, yet so slightly pointed that they are only just sufficient to relieve them from the compressed appearance of a semicircular arch. The middle one is also from two centres. The Fountain of Lions. In the centre of the court is the celebrated Fountain or Tazza. It is a dodecagon basin 104 ft. (Spanish) in diameter, and 2 ft. deep, from which springs a pedestal support- ing a second tazza 4 ft. in diameter and 14 ft. deep. We venture to think that originally there was only the lower tazza, which rests on the lions, and was at a convenient height for ablutions, for which all fountains were made. The workmanship of the higher tazza is in- ferior, and the vain efforts of an unskil- ful, 18th century artist to imitate the Arabic patterns can be easily de- tected. The present marble pavement GRANADA ALHAMBRA. 185 conceals the lower portion of the dado, and is, therefore, now on a higher level than it was originally, even if it he the same , around the lower tazza runs a poe T n in Tawil metre ; many of the verses were copied from the poem writ- ten in praise of the founder of this court, Mohammed V., by the Wazir Abu Abdil-lkh Mohamed Ebn Yusuf Ebn Zemrec, a disciple of the celebrated his- torian Ebnul Kathib. The fountain is a magnificent ala- baster basin. The twelve lions must be looked upon not in a sculptural way, but heraldically, as emblems of strength, power, courage. The lion in the East was a sign of power, and was always used heraldically by the Egyptians, and very often in Spain. They are in white marble, barbecued, with their manes cut like the scales of a griffin. They were probably the work of Spanish prisoners or renegades. According to Marmol and other historians, the child- ren of Abu Hasen by Ayeshah were all beheaded over the fountain by order of their father (excepting the oldest, subsequently Boabdil). Sola de los Abencerrages (Hall of the Abencerrages). Derives its name from a legend, according to which Boabdil, the ]ast king of Granada, invited the chiefs of this illustrious line of the Beni-Serra, better known as the Aben- cerrages, to a banquet, and had them taken out one by one after the feast, through a small wicket, to the foun- tain of the Court of Lions, where they were beheaded ; a massacre which con- tributed to his ruin, as they were the main support of his kingdom, and had helped to place him on his throne. The wicket, which had beautiful folding doors, was removed in 1837, and partly destroyed by the then governor of Alhambra. The dingy ferruginous spots on the marble pavement near the fountain are said by the cicerone to be stains of blood. Others assert that they were murdered here, which would be an Irish way of killing them in this room, whilst they were beheaded in the Court of Lions. This legend has no other authority than a * romance, ' ' His- toria de las Guerras Civiles de Gra- nada.' That several of the Abencer- rages were treacherously murdered in either this or some other hall is certain, but it was by Abu Hasen's orders, and not Boabdil's ; the reason being that the Abencerrages had sided with Aye- shah, and the pretext that one of them had outraged his sister. (See Marmol, * Rebellion de los Moriscos, ' lib. i. cap. 12; 'Hist, de Granada/ by Lafuente Alcantara, vol. iv. etc.) The orna- mentation was identical with that of the Hall of the Two Sisters ; it has under- gone many restorations. Enter by an oval door, which leads into a very narrow anteroom with a small door at each side, communicating with inner halls, and on the arch the usual inscrip- tion, * There is no conqueror but God, ' and * Blessing,' etc., 'Glory be to our lord Abu Abdil-lah.' There are but a few inscriptions here, and several are out of the poem of the Hall of the Two Sisters, which Lafuente Alcantara (' Inscripciones Arabes de Granada,' vol. i. p. 126) thinks must have been placed there when, in the 16th century, this hall was repaired ; it had given way after an explosion of a gunpowder ma- gazine situated close to San Francisco. When the restoration was directed by Alfonso Berruguete, at the time several ornaments belonging to other parts of the palace were then recast, and placed without regard to their original desti- nation. Observe how exquisitely the arch form gradually grows out of the shaft of the column, the stalactite roof crowning this hall, and the penden- tives of the two arches leading into the hall and those over the alcoves. The roof 186 GRANADA ALHAMBRA. is most exquisite the blues, brown, red, and gold, are most effective ; the green at the sides is blue decayed. With the back to the wall, the view over the fountain through the three arches to the fountain in the Court of the Lions is strikingly beautiful. It is a perfect square. Its cupola or dome is very lofty, half round and half conical ; at its base there are small trellised win- dows, behind which the women could hear music without being seen. Many of its azulejos are of Spanish workman- ship, made and designed by Antonio Tenorio, 1536 ('Archives of the Al- hambra '). Solas del Tribunal (Council Hall of Justice). On the eastern side of the Patio de los Leones is a long gallery, divided into alcoves, or divans, con- nected with each other and called del Tri- bunal, from the doubtful tradition that the khalif used to give audience here, or, more likely, treat of state affairs. In the centre one, observe the six fine stalactite arches rising from small columns. It was restored in 1 8 41 . Observe the medallions mixed with the rest of Arab patterns, bearing the badges of the Catholic kings, the yoke and bundle of arrows, with the motto, ' Tanto monta' Three arches lead into the hall of the Council Room, 15 feet high. The Council Room is 75 ft. long by 16 ft. wide, and the hall is divided into seven compartments, including the alcoves ; the three facing the doors or arches are square (38 ft. high to the dome), and the other four quadrilateral oblong (16 ft. long by 8 ft. wide). In the wall of the hall, op- posite to the entrance, there are three more that lead to as many other rooms. The ornamentation of these rooms is very minute, and more delicate and more profusely decorated and coloured than any other. The arch opening into the central saloon is perhaps un- equalled throughout the rest of the Alhambra ; the archivolt spandrils are very elaborately worked and splendid. The whole seems to have been the work of the Genii, raised in a night by the sounds of some mysterious soft music, and at the wand of a magician so light, vapoury, spider's-web-like, gossa- mer work it is. After the conquest, the great mosque of the Alhambra was purified and con- verted into a cathedral ; but on the edi- fice threatening ruin Philip II. had the sacrament removed to this hall, where it was kept for thirty years until 1603, when the Church of Sta. Maria de la AJhambra was completed. The open camarines or recesses in the S. wall are interesting, and here much repairing has taken place In very good style by Sr. Contreras. The ceil- ing is oval. In the domes are some very curious paintings. The ceiling of the central recess or alcove is the best ; the background is gilt and studded with stars. At the extremity are two escutcheons and shields, red ground traversed by a barre or. In the centre are painted ten Moors squatting on cushions, with long beards, their heads covered up in hoods, and the hand leaning on the al-fange, or double- edged Arabic sword. Much has been said and discussed about these paint- ings who painted them ? when ? whom are they intended to represent? who was the artist? Marmol, 'Guerrade Granada,' book i. pt. 1, says that Bal- haxix (Mohammed II.) built the Alham- bra, and that the buildings were greatly added to by ' diez sucesores suyos, cuyos retratos se ven en una sala' ('ten of his successors, whose portraits may be seen in one of the halls '). Argot e de Mollinas, ' Paseos, ' vol. ii. p. 164, and several other writers who lived shortly after the conquest of Granada, confirm this point, and in the archives of the Alhambra, even those relating to the GRANADA ALHAMBRA. 187 15th century, this room is always styled 'el Cuartode los Retratos' (the Hall of the Portraits). According to the French writer Gachard, there is no doubt that John Yan Eyck went to the Alhambra about 1428, accompanying the embassy sent to Portugal by the Duke of Burgundy (whose valet he was), to solicit the hand of Isabella, the daughter of Joam I. of Portugal. (' Rathgeber, Annalen,' p. 36 ; Raczinski, ' Les Arts en Portugal,' pp. 195, 196.) Gachard says he went to the Alham- bra, and painted the Moorish kings. It might be some copy of this now lost picture made by some artist of the time, Maestro Rogel (Roger of Bruges), a scholar of Van Eyck, or another. Mr. Owen Jones is in favour of their being Moorish work, from the purely Moorish ornaments introduced in the paintings, and the details in the con- struction of the domes. (Owen Jones, 'Plans, Elevations,' etc., folio ; London, 1842, plates 46, 47, 48, and 50.) Mr. Ford ('Handbook,' p. 311) is of opinion that they were by some Christian rene- gade, and that the process employed was common to Byzantine painters. Viardot (' Les Musses d'Espagne ;' Paris, 1860, pp. 200-205) believes them to be posterior to the conquest of Granada. ' These paintings are of bright colours, but in flat tints, and were first drawn in outline in a brown colour. They are painted on skins of animals sewn to- gether, nailed to the wooden dome, a fine coat of gypsum forming the surface to receive the painting. The orna- ments on the gold ground are in re- lief.' (Owen Jones, 'Alhambra.') It may be that they were placed after the conquest, but certainly they were never the work of Moors. They have seldom departed from the precepts of the Koran, prohibiting the representation of living subjects, especially of man, and the few examples to the contrary that are ascribed to them were most likely not their work, such as the sarcophagus found at the foot of the Torre de la Vela, the lions in the court, etc. The ceiling of the room on the left represents a field with a lake, in the centre of which is a fountain with two basins, with trees, woods, and birds, and two damsels gazing on the water. In the wood a boar- hunt is represented, and opposite a castle with turrets, out of which two ladies, followed by duenas, are seen isssuing, to receive the homage of two knights. In the ceiling to the right is represented a castle with towers, and from the high- est one a lady, with the unavoidable duena, is entreating two knights who are fighting to cease their sport. Oppo- site the castle stands a woman holding a couchant lion with a chain. Close to her is an enchanter who holds a lady in captivity, and a mailed knight or cham- pion coming to free her. In the extreme opposite of the ceiling there are two castles with ladies leaning out of the windows, apparently much distressed, and at the foot of the castle is another lady sitting on a cushion, and pointing to the cases in a chess-board. Not far are two knights, one wounding a deer and the second some wild beast. There are several dogs, wild beasts, and fan- tastical birds. Besides, Moorish kings might have employed some Christian painter, as the Grand Signor did Gentilo Bellini, for they were not always at war with Christians. For ourselves we are of opinion that these paintings were the handiwork of Italian artists towards the end of the 14th century, and it is not difficult to piece the whole series into a consecutive representation. (See 'Sketches in Spain,' pp. 284, 285.) The Vase. In a small room at the entrance of the Lions' Court may be seen the celebrated vase of the Al- hambra. This most splendid jar or vase (jarron) is enamelled in blue, 188 GRANADA ALHAMBRA. white, and gold : the companion was broken during the governor Montilla's time, and the fragments sold to a French lady. It is a fine specimen of the Moorish ceramic art, and dates 1320, belonging to the first period of the history of Moorish porcelain. It is 4 ft. 3 in. high. The ground is white, and the ornaments blue. In the middle are two animals, more like llamas than camels. It was found full of gold. The inscription has been differently inter- preted, but all the commentaries made are sheer nonsense. The only inscrip- tion is 'Eternal Salvation,' repeated very often. Here would be another subject of controversy were the ani- mals painted by Moorish artists ? Sepulchral Slabs. Note also in this museum the two sepulchral slabs of the kings Yusuf III. and Mohammed II. Four only were found in the Pantheon or tomb-house of the Moorish kings, which was situated not far from the Court of Lions, and close to the actual habitations of the curate of the Alham- bra. They were found in 1574 (the two others of Ismael and Yusuf I. have disappeared), were placed perpendicu- larly, and the letters gilt on a blue ground. On one side was a long inscrip- tion in prose (which has been copied, though somewhat erroneously, it is said, by Al. del Castilo), and on the other the defunct monarch's eulogium in verse. The inscription of Yusuf III. is much deteriorated. The slab of Mohammed II. is of white marble, and is much better preserved. It was formerly placed over the fountain in the garden of the Adarves. It is inferior in the poetical sentiment. A sort of sarcophagus with a basso-relievo that was found in the gardens has been removed hither too ; the subject seems to be a fight between lions and deer, done in the most rough, coarse way. We also think them not to be Moorish work, and that, notwithstanding the Moorish ornamentation, that they were probably found in some Wisigothic ruins, and may have formed part of a retablo. Sala de las Dos Hermanas (Hall of the Two Sisters), formerly called De las Losas (slabs). The explosion of the gunpowder magazine already referred to injured this hall as well as that of the Tribunal, destroying in both the beau- tiful glass windows, which were painted 'con muchas istorias y armas reales. ' (Archives. ) This suite of rooms derives its name from two equal-sized white slabs which form a portion of the pave- ment, and are called ' The Sisters.' Before entering into this most beautiful hall, observe the arch with the white marble on the sides, and on it ' There is no conqueror but God,' etc. This arch leads into a narrow ante-chamber ; on the sides are small doors, opening on inner rooms. The second arch is also oval. On the impost, archivolt, etc., are several diminutive shields with the usual motto. Everything here ought to be attentively examined, for all is exquisite. The pavement rises gradually. Observe the effect from the Court of Lions towards the Mirador of Lindaraja. In the four walls of this hall there are arches, one at the entrance, two on the sides over the alcoves (al hamis, Arabice) or recesses in the wall, and a fourth leading to the square hall leading to the Mirador de Lindaraga. On the walls the azulejos rise to a certain height, forming rich alicatado work ; it is de- corated at intervals with the shield of Ibn-1-Ahmar. Over each arch there is a latticed window, with wooden jalousies (a most appropriate name), belonging to the upper floor. There is a fountain in the middle. The stalactite roof is most wonderful ; 'nearly 5000 pieces,' says Owen Jones, 'enter into its con- struction, and though they are mostly of GRANADA ALHAMBRA. 189 plaster, strengthened here and there with pieces of reed, no part of the palace is, in the present day, in a more perfect state of preservation/ It is a profusion of vaults, miniature domes, most rich and elaborate. This formed a portion of the private apartments of the wives and slaves of the khalif. On the al- coves on each side were divans and couches ; but it was principally destined for the khalifs wives and slaves. This hall abounds with inscriptions, all al- lusive, and of a character suited to the dwelling of the black-eyed sultanas. Mr. Owen Jones has copied most, but omitted unintentionally the eight me- dallions between the sixteen circles on the wall. The last medallion is a re- petition, as the anterior has been de- stroyed. We omit this poem, as well as the rest, the beauty of which lies rather in the musical sounds and words, than in feel- ing or thought. Corredor, Antesala del Mirador de Lindaraja (leading to the Mirador of Lindaraja). The arch leading to this hall has an inscription in African char- acters, and two niches on the sides. This room is square, and has a pretty stalactite roof, with thirteen diminutive cupolas. In the wall in front are two ajimez windows, supported by marble and stucco columns. Mirador de Liiidaraja (from mirar, mirari, to see, to admire, to look on, or out), a boudoir of the sultana. It is a perfect square, and looks on the gar- den of the same name. There are three ajimez windows. The cornice is com- posed of small columns, arches, niches, etc. : the frieze is charming ; the arte- sonado ceiling peculiar in its construc- tion. Patio de la Eeja.On the left of the hall, between the Mirador and Hall of the Two Sisters, is a door, which leads through a modernised corridor to some rooms repaired and modernised by Charles V., painted by several artists, and whitewashed when Philip V. was in Granada. There are the initials K. and I., Charles and Isabella. Turning on the left, and through another cor- ridor, we arrive at a small patio called de la Reja (of the railing), so called from the iron one placed here, and rest- ing on iron pillars. It was placed here about the year 1639, and it is thought that in the adjoining room the silver of the kings was kept when they lived in the Alhambra. Opposite are the Bath-rooms ; on the left, the Court of Lindaraja ; on the right, the Hall de las Ninfas. Sala de los Banos (Bath-rooms). This suite of apartments must have been considerably more numerous, though they were the private baths for the sultan and royal family. Their system of bathing was what we now call Turkish baths, and the way that the pipes and apparatus themselves were laid down would give us no mean idea of the proficiency of the Moors in these matters. The first room is called Quarto de las Camas, 6 del Descanso (Repose), Chamber of the Couches, or of Rest. It has been very ably restored by Sr. Contreras. It is square, with four marble pillars forming a gallery all round, and on the sides two alhamis, or alcoves, formed by two arches, which are supported by columns. Within the alcove was a raised-up couch, upon which the cushions were placed. In the middle a fountain. On the walls, over the azulejos, the badge with Charles V.'s motto, * plus ultra. ' At each of the four angles a small door, arched, lead- ing to the bath-rooms. They were made in Abu Abdilla's time, and pro- bably about 1303 to 1306, as the in- scriptions allude to the hopes that God may grant him a speedy and near vic- tory. The upper portion is formed by 190 GRANADA ALHAMBRA. four arches to each wall, connected by railings. There are sixteen windows, over these a wooden jalousie, and over this again a superb artesonado ceiling. The upper gallery was used for musi- cians, who played and sang whilst the bathers were resting on the couches after being shampooed. This leads to some small rooms ; the first, Bafio de los Mnos, used by the Sultan's children. They are each about 8 ft. long by 5 ft. wide. In each is a small recess in the wall, like a cabinet, formed by a horse- shoe arch, and in it a bath in white marble. Over this, on the wall, a niche where to place the slippers, etc., and under it the pipes. From these you pass to another, 13 ft. long by 8 wide, which serves as an antechamber leading to a square one. Here at each side are alcoves, and in front a door leading to the principal bath-room. There are two fine large baths here ; one is 10 ft. long, 5^ wide (across), with two stop- pers to warm the water ; the other one is square, and all have niches. This room communicated formerly with others where the water was heated, etc. The pavement of all these rooms is of white Macael marble. The roof was lighted up with lumbreras, louvres, or port-holes, cut into the shape of stars. The domes of the Krara'-rahs in the East have similar apertures. The recesses formed by the columns had probably divans, where the manipula- tions were performed. These were probably the hot and cold baths, called in the East Hau'-a-feeyehs. Sola de los Secretos (Chamber of Se- crets), which ought rather to have been called Chamber of Indiscretions. Applying the ear to an opening made at each angle, one can hear what is said at the other extremity, however low spoken. This is an acoustical device, produced by the shape of the ceiling, which forms an elliptical figure ; thus all sonorous sounds, spreading from a focus, are reflected to another one by the hollow walls. There is another similar secrets-room near the Myrtle Court. Jardin de Lindaraja (Garden of Lin- daraja). A small garden. In the middle is a fine fountain with a basin 10 ft. diameter ; from its centre a high pedestal springs, which supports a tazza, which has the shape of a shell ; its workmanship is Arab, and the inscrip- tion around it partly worn out. All round this garden is a gallery, supported by fifteen Arab columns on two sides, and on the third by machones of brick. In this court is a window with a superb look-out on the woods of the Alhambra, Generalife, Darro, etc. Under the Salon de Comares is the chamber called ' de las Ninfas,' not now shown, which used to contain some statues of nymphs ascribed to the artists brought by Charles V. for his palace here, and a medallion of Carrara marble representing Jupiter metamorphosed into a swan, etc., and two fauns. Close by is a small room, from which the ascent is made to the Royal Chapel, rarely shown. The ceiling is inlaid, the colouring fine. Some suppose that the window on the right served to let down Boabdil, and not that in the Hall of Ambassadors, which is higher. The Capilla Real, which was used by the Catholic kings, is a mixture of Arab and Christian styles, of Koranic signs mixed with the Catholic ones, and shields, etc. Over the altar is a picture by Rincon, the Adoration of the Kings ; at each side an image representing Vice. The windows look on some grounds and paltry hovels, which once were part of the palace, and preserve here and there some vestiges of past magnificence. Tocador de la Reina (the Queen's Boudoir). A heavy gallery, built by GRANADA ALHAMBRA. 191 Charles V., leads to this room. It is 9 ft. square. In a corner of the room is a marble slab, drilled with sixteen holes to admit perfumes whilst the sul- tana was at her boudoir ; but we rather think that it was a sort of calorifere contrived by the chilly Charles V. The walls are fresco -painted with subjects, views of sea-ports ; the frieze is com- posed of sphinxes, genii, winged heads of serpents, etc. etc. There are nine windows, and between each are in- different paintings, such as the Fall of Phaeton, etc. The artesonado ceiling is pyramidal, with inlaid wood painted and gilt ; round are several Arab pil- lars, much deteriorated, and half block- ed up by Charles V. There are also several figures painted, representing Faith, Hope, and Charity, Justice, etc. The initials F. and Y. are the mono- grams of Philip V. and Isabelle. The frescoes are by Bartholomew Rajos, whose brother Pedro has left some works at Granada, and by Alfonso Perez and Juan de la Fuente. This room was used by the Arabs as a mihrab, or ora- tory, for the evening prayers. The tower is lofty. The view from it is very grand the Generalife with its gardens and white sparkling buildings, the river Darro and its banks lined with poplars, the verdant Vega, and snow- clad Sierra Nevada. La Mezquita (the Mosque). Near the entrance is an elaborate and beautiful niche. This mosque was converted into a chapel by Charles V. ; a great many injuries and sad restorations and changes have taken place. The walls have been whitewashed, the hall reduced almost to half its former size by a railing, and the floor considerably raised. The carved roof is exquisite, resembling tortoise-shell work, and gilt ; it was repainted by Ferdinand and Isabella. Near the entrance, on the right, is the exquisite niche in which the Koran was deposited. The inscription on the sides is taken from the 7th Sura of the Koran, versicle 204 : 'Be not one of the negli- gent. ' The altar is heavy, and placed in the middle. The floor of the mosque has been lowered about 2 ft., with a view to obtain height for the raised gallery or pew. The azulejos are very fine, and run up the walls about 5 ft. high; the inscriptions are only the often- repeated verses of The glory is God's ; the power is God's ; the empire is God's. Between the azulejos, ' There is no con- queror but God, ' and the shields of the kings of Granada, bearing the above motto. The capitals of the choir pil- lars were gilt and painted by Prado in 1631. Patio de la Mezquita (Mosque). On the right of this patio is a sort of portico or atrium, formed by three arches, which are supported by marble columns, with a door leading to the corridor communicating with the mosque. This court, with its lovely ornamentation, has been carefully restored by Sr. Contreras. It was built by Mohammed Y., as the verse on the wooden frieze under the roof has it, which must for- merly have gone round the whole court. Note especially the decoration of the fa$ade and cornice, the windows, and the column capitals. Originally there was a fountain in the centre. New-discovered Hall. A hall called Sala de los Blasones, or Hall of the Shields or Escutcheons, because it is decorated with several shields with initials, has been lately discovered. The walls were whitewashed, thus con- cealing the former Arabic work, and are being restored ; the plaster has been taken down, and the wonderful orna- mentation is now revealed. Its former stalactical roof and ornamentation are of the work called Comarragia (that of Hall of Ambassadors), and are now beirg 192 GRANADA ALHAMBRA. extricated out of the modern roof which already existed in Philip V. 's time. It was probably used for festivities, or as a dining-room. The banqueting-hall in the East was always near a court and garden (compare Esther vii. 7, 8). Minor Curiosities within the circuit of the Alhambra. Around the walls are several towers still extant, but mostly going fast to ruin ; some deserve very close examination from their beautiful workmanship. Ask for a noteworthy statue of Paris. According to some, it is a Roman statue ; according to others, it was made and destined for the palace of Charles V. There is also a pillar, with the Latin inscription, * Cornelias L. F. j Cornelians ; P. Valerius Lucanus. Uxori indulgen- tissimse, D.D. L.D. O.D.' It was pro- bably over a Roman tomb, and dedi- cated, as it runs, by one Valerius Lucan to his most indulgent wife, Cornelia. Before these we must mention the parish church of Sta. Maria de la Al- hambra. It was built in 1581 by a Burgalese architect, Juan de Vega, and was finished in 1583. It was built for Philip II., and it is supposed Juan de Hen-era was not a stranger to the general plan. On the S. end, let into the wall, is a slab of Macael marble with a Gothic inscription referring to the con- secration of three churches built in the times of the kings Viterico and Recared. This church was built on the site of the great mosque which was destroyed (fell down) in time of Philip II. The mosque was built by Mohammed Abu Abdallah III. in 1308, and Ibn-ul- Kattib describes it thus : * It is ornamented with mosaic work and. ex- quisite tracery of the most beautiful and intri- cate patterns, intermixed with silver flowers and graceful arches, supported by innumerable pillars of the finest polished marble' (Gay- angos). The sultan had consecrated to it part of the taxes paid by Jews and Chris- tians, and had sold several estates to make a rent for it. (Casiri, ' Bibl. Arabico-Hispana.') In Al Kallet, par. 5, Mah. III., quoted by Lafuente Al- cantara. The Convent of San Francisco, now secularised, is not far from this, and was the first built after the con- quest by Talavera, the confessor of Isabella, in 1492. At their death, the bodies of the Catholic kings were first placed here until removed, in 1525, to the Capilla Real. There were gardens here, and the bath-houses of the Moorish princes. Fortress. The walled circuit formed by the fortress of the Alhambra is the highest in the capital; it is 2690 ft. (Spanish) long by 730 ft. in its widest part. The average thickness of the walls is 5 ft. and the height 27 ft. In the walls there are at intervals turrets, which begin at the Torre de la Vela, follow the Adarves, Gate of Justice, Tower of Prisons, Tower of the Siete Suelos (where the door is said to exist, but cannot be seen, through which Boabdil sallied to meet the Catholic kings), Torre of the Water, Towers of Catholic Kings, of Los Picos, Infanta, Comares, the circular cubo tower of Homenage and the Quebrada, and that of the Ar- moury close to the Vela. The French on withdrawing exploded great part of the fortress, especially that towards the Generalife. The walls and towers are made of chinarro (flint, earth, and lime), which become like stone under that petrifying baking sun. Not a less curious por- tion is the subterraneous Alhambra, full of corridors, chambers, etc., which served the princes as ways of escape during the often-occurring intrigues and other dangers of war and faction. Towers. De las Damas, or del Prin- cipe, built by the Sultan Ismael. It is spoiled now, and unfortunately in pri- vate hands, but still keeps its old mirador GRANADA ALHAMBRA. intact, with some very lovely decora- tion. Visit, close by, the tiny mosque where some say that Jusuf I. , the chief founder of the Alliambra, was murdered at his prayers. Note here a very per- fect Arabic inscription, formerly placed over the entrance of the Mint ; also two Assyrian lions, brought from the same place, and the coat of arms of the first Christian proprietor, Astasio de Braca- monte. Torre de las Infantas: once the residence of the Moorish princesses. Beautiful decorations ; machicolated roof, and portico leading into a pretty gallery ; two arches, with a slender col- umn between them, are exquisitely orna- mented; poor in inscriptions: one runs thus : ' Glory be to our lord the Sultan Abu Abdillah, the contented with God.' Torre de la Oautiva (Captive). So called because it was, doubtfully, for some time the residence of the beauti- ful Christian prisoner, Dona Isabel de Solis, afterwards the favourite sultana of Abn Hasen, who called her the Morning Star, ' Tsorayya, ' or ' Zoraya ' (the word in Arabic rather signifies ' the Pleiades' than any determined star. ' Iscripciones de Granada/ p. 176. Observe the slender arches and a deli- cate tarkish. The central chamber of this tower possesses some of the best azulejos, and most delicate and delicately coloured ornamentation of the whole Alhambra. The style is that called ' Comarragia,' of which the Hall of Ambassadors is a fine specimen, and it was most probably (a presumption based on the adoption of this style and the inscription) erected by Abul-Had- jaj-Yusuf, 7th king of the Beni-Nasr dynasty. The greater portion has been well restored by Sr. Contreras. It is square, has three windows and one door. On the portico are four inscriptions of the usual short sentences. On the walls forming the four angles are other inscriptions. On another wall may be read the 114th Sura, wherein the dogma of the unity of God is opposed to that of the Holy Trinity. (In the coins of the Khalifs of the East and Spain, until the period of the Almoravides, this same legend is found, which constitutes one of the fundamental dogmas of the Mussulman religion. ' This tower must have been built about, or rather after, 1325. The captive might have been the fair Chris- tian that Abul Walld Ismael (who died 1325) carried off from the harems of Mohammed Abn Ismael, king of Algeciras, at the siege of Martos. Visit also the Torre de los Picos, guarding the Puerta de Hierro, and, some distance from the Alhambra but intimately connected with its story, the Cuarto Heal) in the huerta which once belonged to the Convent of San Domingo. The exterior is solemn, plain, and severe, as are all Moorish palaces ; the inside is a square room, lofty and spacious, which was the secluded palace to which the Granadine kings resorted for the Rhamadan or fasting period, and the inscriptions seem to confirm this presumption ; much deteriorated. It is private property, and an endeavour is being made to repair it well. The entrance is by an arch very well pre- served, and upon its jambs on the azu- lejos (left and right) there is a compli- cated and showy effect of white, green, and purple. See also four exquisitely decorated arches, above which were as many windows, now filled up; beautifully inlaid roof; charming azulejo columns ; and the arched alcove with its pretty window. The white tiles with golden scroll must be observed, as being exceptions to the rule. Generalife. Jennatu-l'-arif, Ara- bice, the Garden of the Architect. (Permission is required from the adniinis- trador of the proprietor, Marquis de Campo- tejar, whose villa is worth seeing small fee to keeper.) 194 GRANADA ALHAMBRA. This summer villa of the sultans of Granada was, probably, in the first in- stance, an important watch-tower, or advanced sentry of the fortress of the Al- fa ambra. It was built no doubt by the first kings of Granada, and considerably enlarged, or rather rebuilt, in the reign of Abu-1-Walid, about the 'Year of the Great Victory of Religion, ' as the inscriptions run, that is in the month of Rabie 1, 719, which corresponds to April-May, 1319 the very year when the armies of the Infantes D. Juan and D. Pedro were routed and the princes killed ; an event that took place close to Sierra Elvira. Marmol, who wrote in the 1 6th century, derives the etymo- logy from ' Garden of the Dance ' (De la Zambra), which certainly would ap- pear more appropriate to this the abode of pleasure and revelry. The palace and gardens became the hereditary alcaldia of the house of Avila, and sub- sequently by marriage a portion of the estates of the Marquis of Campo Tejar (of the Italian Grimaldi-Gentili family of Genoa), Philip 1Y. having made it a perpetual grant to the house of Granada and Yenegas. There is, besides, an- other house of Granada, whose dukes are descendants of Dona Isabel de Solis (Zoraya), the fair sultana of Abu- Hasen. This palace, which was used on great festal occasions, is inferior to the Alhambra in size and general style. Our appreciation of its merits is, how- ever, liable to mistake, as whitewash and neglect have been busy at work, and but little remains to recal the glowing descriptions contained in the few poems which have escaped the wrathful hands of restorers. A princi- pal feature must have been the gardens and waters. The canal of the Darro empties here its abundant and rapid waters, which flow through a series of evergreen arches formed by yews twisted and cut into quaint patterns. On the sides grow oranges and lemon trees, their vivid shining leaves con- trasting pleasantly with the sombre arrowy cypresses. On leaving the Alhambra, passing by the Hotel de los Siele Suelos, and glancing to some ruins on the left, said to be remains of the stables of the Moorish guard, we turn to the left and enter, by the Cancela de Fuentepena, the principal avenue of the villa, which on approaching nearer is shaded by tall secular cypresses and hedges. On ar- riving, the portress, who seems a de- scendant of the former door-keepers of the palace, comes down lazily and opens the door, which leads into a spacious patio, with a garden in the middle, through which runs the Acequia. A long gallery, decorated with slender pillars and seventeen arches runs on the left, overlooking the Alhambra. Whitewash laid in thick coats has con- cealed, and may have saved in some respect, the delicate tarkish, the ceil- ing, and arabesques over the pillars. The chapel into which visitors are taken next is most indifferent, and was built on the site of a Moorish oratory, or mihrab, of which some portions may be still descried. A few modernised rooms follow, in one of which are placed some daubs vouchsafed as au- thentic portraits of Boabdil, the Catho- lic Kings, Gonzala de Cordova, and any other hero you may choose. There is, however, close by, a most exquisite boudoir, which has preserved its former style. Observe the coloured domic ceiling, the stuccoed walls, which look like the open worked leaves of a Chinese fan. Pass on by a staircase to The Court of the Cypresses. It is square, with a pond in the centre, surrounded by hedges of roses, with coloured flower- pots. The garden preserves the general form of the Moorish period ; but v. as GRANADA CATHEDRAL. 195 Qiodernised in the reign of Charles V. Observe the beautiful cypresses, which date from the time of the Moors. Under one of the largest, a love-scene is said to have taken place, in which Sultana Zoraya was the heroine ; but the authenticity of the story is doubted. A mirador crowns the slopes ; the view from which is glorious. A side- door leads to the Silla del Moro, a hill, the summit of which was, until lately, generally supposed to have been the site of the celebrated Alijares, another sumptuous Moorish palace. (It is toler- ably well established, now, that the Alijares crowned the opposite, lower hill, over the Campo de los Martires. ) Here was also the far-famed summer villa of Darlaroca, or the Bride's Palace ; and on the other side, descending towards the Genii, stood the wonderful aviary of Dar-al-wad, or House of the River. There are some remains of a mihrab and Moorish tanks, the largest of which is the Algibe de la Lluvia. Proceed next, turning to the right, to the site of the Campe de los Martires. On this spot Boabdil, the day of the surrender of his capital, met Cardinal Mendoza, and proceeding a little farther, close to the present small church of St. Sebastian, the ill-fated dethroned mon- arch held the interview, already de- scribed with the Catholic Kings, who, on January 6, entered the city, holding a grand levee in the Hall of Comares. The convent, once situated here, has been removed. The slopes of the hill are covered with excavated hovels, in- habited by gipsies, and farther on by carmenes or villas. To the left a small avenue leads to the fine mansion and gardens of Sr. Calderon. Following the road by the gardens, we reach the Torres Bermejas, or Red Towers. Here is the Church of San Cecilio, a Muz- arabic church during the Moslem's sway, raised to a parish in 1501. C8i$prbnd. Hours to see Cathedral, 8 A.M. to 12 A.M., and 3 P.M. to 5 P.M. To see the Chapel Royal, after or before the coro service, apply at sacristia for the civil sacristan, Don Antonio. This fine specimen of the Grseco-Roman style was intended by the architect to be second to no church in the world, ' ex- cept, perhaps, St. Peter's.' The pro- portions are good, but the building is not seen to advantage, from being rather choked up by the surrounding houses. It was built on the site of the great mosque, and begun in 1529 by Diego de Siloe, son and scholar of the celebrated Burgalese, Gil de Siloe, con- tinued by his pupil, Juan de Maeda, and Juan de Orea, one of the architects who worked at the palace of Charles V. It was completed in 1639. Exterior. It is placed between the Plaza de Bi- barrambla and that of Las Pasiegas ; the principal fa9ade is in the latter square, and is composed of three en- trances, adorned with statues and alto- relievos. Interior. Noble, simple, and grand, divided into five naves ; the pillars massive, with heavy entablatures and weak superimposed cols. Domical roof poor ; windows bald. The choir is in the middle ; the stalls of different periods and indifferent merit ; the trascoro is churrigueresque, but not of its worst style, made up of red, black, and white marbles, with a curious mosaic on the altar, which a lusus na- turce, slightly aided by man, may re- present the Temptation of St. Anthony in the Desert. The organs are not in good taste, but first-rate as instruments. The marble pavement very fine, and placed at the end of the last century, The noble cimborio rises some 220 ft. , and the arch (arco toral], 190 ft., open- ing to the coro, has a bend which is much admired by connoisseurs. The dome is painted in white and gold ; the high altar stands isolated, and at the 196 GRANADA CATHEDRAL. sides are the kneeling effigies of Fer- dinand and Isabella. The interior is 425 ft. long by 249 ft. wide (Spanish measure). The High Chapel is very fine. There are seven pictures by Alonso Cano, and the colossal heads of Adam and Eve, also by him, above the high altar, let into circular recesses ; there are fifteen chapels around the church. Beginning by those to the right, we may mention : Capilla de San Miguel. Founded by Peralta, Archbishop of Granada, and before Bishop of Tucuman and Cusco, whose enormous wealth was equalled by his generosity and love of art. He lived near Granada in his magnificent villa of Viznar, more like a king than a priest of God, and is buried here. It was built in 1804, by Romero de Aregon. The statue of the tutelar is of marble of Macael, and there are some fine jaspers from Sierra Nevada. In the group, Satan absorbs all the room, which made the prelate observe, * El diablo se lo ha llevado todo.' It was designed and executed by one Adam, who in this case was not the first man in his time. To the right a fine Alonso Cano, ' La Virgen de la Soledad. ' Next comes the door which leads to the sag- rario. Some pictures, and one before which San Juan de Dios used to pray. Capilla de la Trinidad. Paintings: subject, God the Father a Dead Christ, by Cano, and a Holy Family on left by Bocanegra. Altar or Chapel of Jesus Nazareno. The retablo is full of pic- tures by Ribera and Cano ; the one in the middle, St. Paul, is the copy of one that was stolen in 1842, which theft is here kindly attributed to Ingleses over- enthusiastic for ' las glorias de la escuela espanola.' By Ribera, San Antonio, St. Lorenzo, the Magdalen ; by Cano, St. Augustine, La Amargura, a Christ, and a Virgin. Next comes the beautiful arch and door that lead to the Capilla Real, It is of good Gothic style, and most richly ornamented ; observe the two splendid royal escutcheons, a series of saints in a row round the arch, etc. Chapel of Santiago. An equestrian image of St. James, by one Medrano. The different chapels about the interior between the naves are not remarkable ; at that of Sta. Ana, observe the pictures of San Juan de Mata and San Pedro Nolasco, by Bocanegra. Chapel de la Antigua. Portraits, said to be exact likenesses, of Ferdinand and Isabella, by Rincon ; ascribed also to Juan de Sevilla, who, it is added, copied them from the ori- ginals by Rincon, now at Madrid ; the image on the altar is the identical one which the Catholic kings brought to the camp during the siege, and placed in the Church del Carmen, near the Ermita de San Sebastian. Pass on to Chapel del Cdrmen. A fine head of St. Paul, by Cano. Over the door leading to the Sala Capitular, observe a medal< lion and a beautifully composed and executed group of ' Charity,' by Pietro Torrigiano, Michael Angelo's rival, and favourite of Lorenzo de Medici. This great Florentine sculptor hastened to Granada when he heard that Charles Y. had appealed to the first artists of the world to embellish the church and make designs for the royal sepulchres of his father and mother and the Catholic kings ; he came, but was not chosen, and left only this specimen of his talents. Near this door is a fine Crucifixion, by Bocanegra. Under the choir lies the granadino Alonso Cano. The Chapel of the sagrario, a small church itself, and the parish church of the cathedral, was begun in 1705 and finished in 1759, on the site of the for- mer mosque, built in the 14th century. This was a square building, with a low roof, and divided into four small naves supported by jasper pillars, forming by GRANADA CATHEDRAL. 197 their many arches a profusion of small cupolas elaborately carved. It was on one of its three doors, next to that leading to the Royal Chapel, that Her- nan Perez del Pulgar nailed a tablet bearing the words * Ave Maria,' to ac- complish which feat, during the siege, he entered the town at dusk and left it unharmed amid the plaudits of the Asab warriors, who appreciated this exploit. There are some well-carved effigies and precious marbles. In the Sagrario lies the first Archbishop of Granada, F. de Talavera, obt. 1507. The tomb was raised by his friend, Conde de Tondella, and inscribed * AMI- cus AMICO.' Here is a chapel where the hero is buried, and called hence del Pulgar. Chapel Royal (Capilla de los Reyes). So called, because it is the burial-place of Ferdinand and Isabella, of Philip, and Juana, their daughter. It is the chief object of interest in the cathedral, although it is independent of it, and has its especial chapter and chap- lains. It was built by order of Ferdi- nand and Isabella, by Felipe Vigarni, alias Philip de Borgona, in the special Cinquecento style adopted by this ar- chitect. Observe the groups of slender pillars in the angles terminating at the capitals in palm branches that spread over the roof. A magnificent reja divides the church, and is the work of Bartolome of Jaen, 1533. Ob- serve the escutcheons with the yugos (yoke) and bundle of arrows. The in- scription, which runs round the cornice, is to this effect : This chapel was founded by the most Catho- lic Don Fernando and Dona Isabel, King and Queen of las Espanas, of Naples, of Sicily, and Jerusalem, who conquered this kingdom, and brought it back to our Faith ; who acquired the Canary Isles and Indies, as well as the cities of Oran, Tripoli, and Bugia ; who crushed heresy, expelled the Moors and Tews from these realms, and reformed religion. The Queen died Tuesday, Nov. 26, 1504. The king died Jan. 23, 1516. The building was completed in The high altar is ascended by some steps. The retablo is the work of Felipe de Borgona ; the bassi-relievi are most in- teresting for the scenes they represent and the costumes of those times. Ob- serve the Surrender of Granada Isa- bella on a white palfrey between Ferdi- nand and Mendoza, who is riding on a mule, as was the fashion for prelates in those days. Boabdil presents the keys ; behind are ladies, knights, halberdiers, and in the distance captives are seen coming out from the gates. Another relievo has for its subject the Conversion of Infidels. At each extremity of the altar are kneeling effigies of the Catholic kings, most interesting, as being exact repre* sentations of their faces, costumes, forms : behind the king is the banner of Cas- tile. In the centre of the chapel are two alabastar sepulchres, on which are extended on the right one, facing the altar, the effigies of Ferdinand and Isabella, and on the left Philip and Crazy Jane, side by side. They are among the most magnificent mauso- leums in the world, and were wrought by Italian artists, some say Vigarni, and others Peralta, from Genoa. They are all superb, and decorated with deli- cate ornaments and statuettes. Ob- serve in that of Ferdinand and Isabella the four doctors of the Church at the corners, and twelve apostles at the sides ; the details, ornaments, children, foliage, all most Italian-like ; the soft. cream-coloured, ivory-looking alabaster adds not a little to the pleasing effect of the whole. Ferdinand wears the garter, and Isabella the cross of Santi- ago, Philip the Golden Fleece. Crazy Jane's soft and gentle expression be- speaks contentment to be at last resting 198 GRANADA LA CARTUJA. by the side of him from whom she never would part when he was dead, and whose jealous love became insanity at last. * The statue of Isabella is ad- mirable, ' says a writer, * her smile is as cold, and her look is as placid, as moonlight sleeping on snow. ' In questa forma Passa la bella donna, e par che dorma. She died indeed far from Granada, but desired to be buried here in the brightest pearl of her crown. The sen- timent is truly touching, and the effect aimed at is fully produced ; the subject is the Christian's death, who, stretched on the tomb, has yet the hope of an- other and a better life. * She is one of the most faultless characters in history, one of the purest sovereigns who ever graced or dignified a throne, who, * in all her relations of queen or woman,' was, in the words of Lord Bacon, ' an honour to her sex and the cornerstone of the greatness of Spain. * ' Descend into the vault, in which their ashes lie in rude and plain coffins, with a simple letter, the initial one of each respective king and queen. Here, too, are the ashes of the little Prince Miguel, infant son of Philip and Juana. These iron-bound caskets are undoubtedly genuine, the royal resting-place never having been disturbed by either friend or foe unlike most of the Spanish royal tombs. Daring the ex-queen Isabella's visit to Granada, she had mass said in this chapel for the souls of these kings, and on the same altar that was used by them, and, by a strange coincidence, here appeared Queen Isabella of Spain, surrounded by the descendants of those who attended on the first Isabella, when mass was said before that same altar at the taking of Granada at an interval of 400 years, 1492-1862 ; with this difference, that they added a new world to their mighty dominions, and she stood the daughter of a Ferdinand who lost the former. Observe in the Sa- cristia the plain sword used by Ferdi- nand, and his sceptre, the silver-gilt crown of Isabella, her missal, a cha- suble embroidered by her, a painting (subject, the Adoration of the Magi) by Hemmeling of Bruges, etc. In the sacristia, a San Jose, by Cano, and a few relics. La Cartuja. This suppressed con- vent lies without the city (on the N.) 1 m. from the Triunfo, on a spot with a very Moorish name, like all here, Hina- damar. It was once a very wealthy con- vent, founded by the Carthusian Order on grounds belonging to and granted to them by Gonzalo de Cordova, * el gran capitan.' The French plundered it, and have left only what they could not take away. Observe in the refectory, on the wall at the extremity, a painted cross, by Cotan, so good an imitation of wood that it is said the very birds make the mistake and fly in to perch upon it. In the adjoining chapel, SS. Peter and Paul, by Cotan, and in the cloisters a series of pictures by the same, representing strange and repug- nant scenes of Carthusian martyrdoms and persecutions by the English Pro- testants. Sagrario. A triumph of churrigueresque Fresco by Palomino ; doors of the coro and sacristia beauti- fully inlaid with silver, ebony, tortoise- shell, mother-of-pearl, etc. See in the respaldos del coro a fine San Bruno, by Reseyra, and Flight into Egypt, by Cotan. Observe in the santuario the rich and various marbles, jaspers, onyx. In the sacristy, marble slabs simulat- ing paintings and subjects, in which, as in clouds, every one may see most clearly what his fancy suggests ; two Morales. Churches. Until 1843, Granada contained upwards of twenty-three GRANADA. 199 parishes, most of which have been sup- pressed ; besides the Cathedral and Cartuja there are few of any artistic value, either as a building or from its contents. We shall, however, mention Las Augustias. In Carrera del Genii ; slegant towers, 1664. The statues of the Twelve Apostles are by Pedro Duque Cornejo. Close to it, in a small square, is a statue erected to the actor Maiquez, by Romea and Ma- tilde Diez, the best living actors of this day. San Cristobal. In the Albaycin bar- rio. The view from its belfry is ex- tensive, and worth the trouble of the ascent. Tower of San Jose. Very early ; built close to the former ram- parts of the Alcazaba. San Juan de los Reyes. The former mosque, El TeyUr. The first mosque which was converted into a Christian church after the cap- ture of the town by the Catholic kings. San Nicolas. A former mosque. The view from it is the finest in Granada. Salvador. On the site of the lar- gest mosque in this quarter of the town ; in a patio near the house inhabited by the sexton are some Moorish remains. Consecrated by Cardinal Ximenes, November 16, 1499. On that same day began the forced conversion of the Moors. Built by Alonso de Vega. San Cferonimo, church and convent, begun by Siloe, 1492, for Talavera, confessor of the Catholic kings ; finished by the widow of El Gran Capitan ; re- stored in bad taste 1882. Gonsalvo himself was buried here. See his tomb and that of his wife. See also their effigies on either side of the high altar, and, in the transepts, the figures of Gonsalvo's four companions. Colegiata del Sacro Monte. On a hill, a steep ascent ; the early Puerta Quemada arch is seen on the way, said to be a Roman work. The church is indifferent ; the transept leads to the Santas Cuevas, a subterranean series of chapels filled with slabs, etc., and erected in commemoration of supposed miracles, treasure- trove, finding of early records, and medals', etc. Sto. Domingo. Founded by the Catholic kings, at the request of the celebrated Fray Tomas de Torque mada (near it is the Cuarto Real). See supra. Santo Domingo. The fagade is by Siloe. Here are fine specimens of Alonso Cano, Juan de Sevilla, A. Bocanegra, and J. Sanchez Cotan. Do not fail to observe the six fine enamels on the portable altar from the Convent of San Geronimo. The Provincial "Museo de Antiguedades," has been arranged in tho first floor. Observe some interesting Moorish pottery, arquebus, etc. Open all day. San yuan de Dios. Founded by this Portu- guese saint, who was born 1495 ; came to Granada, and manifested his fanaticism in such a manner that he was considered mad, and shut up in the Hospital Real in a cage, which is shown to visitors. Public Buildings. These are of no importance, being mostly built at a period when the prosperity of Granada was rapidly declining, and those that date from the Moorish epoch, and of that of the Catholic kings have been so considerably altered and injured that they no longer retain any charac- ter. We shall, however, mention them, and let our readers judge for them- selves. Casas Consistoriales. The build- ing was erected by the Moors, and was used, it is believed, as an university, where the celebrated Koranic Academy, founded by Abdallah Solyman Al-Cas- sim, was established. It was modern- ised in 1720. Hospital de los Locos, or Lunatic Asylum. Corner of Plaza del Triunfo. One of the earliest known. Founded by the Catholic kings, Gotho- plateresque style. Chancilleria, or Court of Chancery, in Plaza Nueva, built 1584, by Martin Diaz Navarre. University. Was founded in 1531, by Charles V., and Pope Clement VII. granted to it privileges similar to those of the universities of Bologna, Paris, Salamanca, and Alcala de Henares ; the botanical garden annexed to it is all weeds and neglect. Museo. Few good paintings, por- traits of the Catholic kings, by Rin- 200 GRANADA. con, several by Bocanegra and Cotan, a portable altar from San Geronimo, with six fine enamels on copper, and specimens of Mora and Risueno. Libraries. That of the University. A polyglot Bible and several works on theology, few Arab MSS., and little of interest relative to Granada. Private houses. A group in the aris- tocratic Calle de las Tablas. In the Calle de Gracia, No. 23, the Empress Eugenie dona Eugenia de Guzman de Portocarrero was born. Near the post office stands the house of the Gran Capitan, and, close by, the interesting old Casa de los Tiros, belonging to the Marquis de Campotejar. Here may be seen the fine sword of El Rey Chico, some fair tapestries and a heavily joisted ceiling carved with a series of heads of the Reyes Catolicos, etc. A few minutes' walk from here is the Puerta del Carbon, once the barracks of the Moorish cavalry. The doorway and arch are fine, but rapidly deteriorat- ing. The Casa was built as early as 1070, by Badis. Do not fail to notice the fine 16th century Casa de Castril in the Carrera del Darro, with good renaissance details after Diego de Siloe, and the motto ' Esperandola del cielo,' about which clings an interesting old legend. Walls, Gates, Streets, etc. Of the three cercas, or lines of circumvallation, with which the Moors fortified their beloved city, and which were flanked by 1030 massive towers, few and un- interesting vestiges remain. Of its former twenty gates, most have dis- appeared, and awkward repairs and alterations have disfigured the rest. The principal is Puerta de Monayma, in the Albacin ; its meaning in Arab is ' Gate of the Standard, ' and was so called because on the outbreak of any disturbance the khalif's royal standard was hoisted upon it, as a signal. Puerta de Elvira, so called because it is placed towards Ghebal-Elveyra, or Sierra El- vira ; it has been recently repaired. Puerta del Pescado, with three Moorish arches. "We have already noticed that of Las Granadas (Alhambra). The principal squares are : the renowned Bibarrambla, where once stood Bibal- raml, the Gate of the River ; it is interesting only as having been the site of so many jousts and tournaments, gallant deeds, Moorish fantasia, not unlike those present Algerine hippie performances, etc., and the scene of great events and continual partisan hostile meetings. The Moorish king rides up and down Through Granada's royal town ; From Elvira's gates to those Of Bibarrambla, on he goes. Woe is me, Alhama ! Lord Byron. Which latter verse ought to have been translated, * Woe to my Alhama ! ' (Ay de mi Alhama !) This legend -haunted spot has been converted into a common- place Plaza de la Constitucion sic transit gloria. . . Mauri. Close to it is the ancient Pescaderia, the modernised palace of the archbishop, whose homi- lies Gil Bias finally ventured to criti- cise, and adjoining it the cathedral. The town-hall is unworthy of notice. Plaza del Triunfo, a large open place, with a pretty paseo, a much-venerated effigy of the Virgin, by Juan de Mena, and a statue of Maria Pineda, a politi- cal martyr who was strangled here in May 1831. A constitutional flag hav- ing been found in her house, she, in consequence, was convicted of high treason, and mercilessly condemned to death. The unfortunate lady has been executed a second time in effigy by the sculptor. Adjoining this plaza are the bull-ring, Church of San lldefonso, Gate of Elvira, and the Hospital Real. The Plaza Nueba contains little to interest us. It is built over the Darro. Here stands the modern Audiencia, GRANADA EXCURSIONS. 201 and formerly the Chancilleria, with a fine fagade. The principal streets are, El Zacatin, where the principal Moorish market- place once stood, as the name suffi- ciently explains (zoc, Arabice a mar- ket, like the Zoko at Tetuan, Zoco- dover at Toledo, etc.) It is now a narrow sombre street, lined with shops. About half-way to the left is the Alcaiceria, the Moors' silk bazaar. A great portion of it was destroyed by fire in 1842 ; but vestiges still exist of Moorish stucco work and rich orna- mentation. In the Calle de las Tablas are situated the houses of grandees. We may also mention, Calle de San Francisco, Acera del Genii, etc. Promenades, Theatres, etc. The Alameda is a charming broad avenue formed by rows of stately elms that, uniting their branches above, form a roof of foliage so dense that the shade beneath is most refreshing, even during the hottest days in the year. There are gardens on each side, covered with roses. There are fountains at the extremities which contribute to the coolness of the air in summer, but are otherwise unin- teresting. This promenade, and the bridge built at the upper end of it, are the works devised by Marshal Sebasti- ani, who considered them probably as fully compensating for the destruction of the Alhambra, etc. The Carrera de Genii (el Salon), and the above are the fashionable walks. The first is preferred in summer, and the second in winter. The hour of the paseo in the former sea- son is in the evening, and the band plays on Sundays and Thursdays at 3 p. M. on the Carrera, the resort of fa- shion. In winter the promenade hours are from 4 to 5 P.M. Near the Alameda del Darro is the medicinal fountain de los Avellanos, the site of the Moorish Ayn-ad-dama, or the Fountain of Tears. The present theatre (Teatro Principal) is small but elegant. Spanish comedies (modern), mostly French translations, dramas, and dancing. The new theatre, de Isabel la Catolica, is elegantly fitted up. The Plaza de Toros is small, and the * corridas' here are considered very second-rate. Festivals. The principal local festi- vals of the year are, the anniversary of the taking of Granada by the Catholic kings, January 2. Repair that day, about 3 to 4 P.M., to the Alhambra, where the bands play, and the pretty Granadinas, *que son muy finas,' as rhyme and truth will have it, parade in their holiday dresses. On that day the peasant girls from the vega and sur- rounding hamlets repair to the Alham- bra, ascend the Torre de la vega, and each in turn strikes the bell that is placed there, which is said to ensure a husband, or at least un novio ; but their black eyes are surer still to attract a gache, as the slang of the majority de- signates a Lindoro. On that day the fountains run in the Alhambra a poor specimen now-a-days of what the grandes eaux of that Moorish Versailles must once have been. On Corpus Christi the Plaza de Bibarrambla is crowded with picturesque groups. The feria takes place on the 5th, 6th, and 7th June. Conveyances to Lanjaron. Service in summer only by Alchendin, Padul, Durcal, Talara, and Beznar ; a small dil. (offices, Fonda de la Alameda); fares, berl., 40r.; int., 30r.; cupe, 20r. Excursions. Sierra Nevada. This excursion must be undertaken in summer only, and with a good guide. It will interest the geologist and botanist as well as the general tourist. The Sierra Ne- vada, the old Orospeda and Moorish Ho Laiz, is a range of hills which rise east of Granada, and extend from north 202 GRANADA EXCURSIONS. to east, presenting a series of pinnacles almost always clad with snow. On its southern slopes is the district of the secluded Alpuj arras ; on its northern slopes are some very fertile valleys. From this main trunk branch the minor ranges of Gador, Lujar, Guejar, Filabres, etc., which are clothed with forests, and are pregnant with marble, coal, and lead mines, and contain a remarkable medicinal herbal. Principal Heights of the Sierra Nevada. English Feet. Authorities. 11,781 Mula Hacen Picacho de la Veleta Do. Cerro de la Alcazabci Cerro del Caballo Cerro de los Machos Col de la Veleta Glacier of El Corral Sierra Lujar Village of Trevelez City of Granada Village of Lanjaron . Clemente. n,597 .Do. 11,432 Boissier. Clemente. Estimation. Clemente. Boissier. Do. D'Ottensheim. Boissier. Do. Do. ",356 11,200 11,205 10,826 9,585 6,262 5,330 2,343 2,284 The Picacho de Veleta, as the easiest of access from Granada, is the one more generally selected ; the greater part may be ridden. Tourists gener- ally start in the night, returning next day. A tour round the Alpuj arras will repay the trouble. Alhendin, Padul, Lanjaron, celebrated for its mineral springs and most picturesque situation, the valley of the Orgiba, the wild romantic Angosturas del Rio and Por- tugos are visited, and the grand ascent to Mula Hacen is then made. The start- ing-place is Trevelez. The view from the Mula Hacen is much grander than that from the Veleta. By starting very early, tourists may avoid a night in the mountains, and return next day to Orgiba through the lovely wild Bar- ranco de Poqueira, continuing by Lan- jaron back to Granada. A diligence ser- vice from Lanjaron to Granada during the summer season only. Pedestrian explorations of the Alpu- j arras having become of late somewhat more frequent than hitherto, the follow- ing particulars will be useful to our readers ; but the interesting paper of Mr. Charles Packe, published in the ' Alpine Journal,' and giving a detailed account of his ascent, should be pro- cured. (See also * Alpine Journal,' vol. iii. 1867.) Make Lanjaron headquarters. Reach that place by dil. from Granada, or get down at Ultimo Suspiro del Moro, whence through Durcal, past the Gorge of Talara and Bridge of Tablate, and turning to left, take the rough by-road that zig-zags up hill to Lanjaron. There is a decent posada in this charmingly situated African town ' el paraiso de las Alpuj arras,' which is famous for its fruit in general, and its oranges more espe- cially. Here a guide should be taken. (Inquire at the posada.) Walk to village of Capilleria by Orgiba, 2 hrs. to Barranco de Poqueira ; endea- vour by camping to avoid the abomin- able posada at Capilleria ; sleep. At daybreak begin the ascent, having pre- viously secured the assistance of a local guide acquainted with the Mula Hacen, which is neither dangerous nor even difficult. * It is simply a long, heart- breaking grind. 1 After a few 'long, steep slopes of mica schist, crowned by a fringe of jagged rocks,' you gain the rocky pinnacle with a* structure on the summit, built by Government engineers. The 'Corral,' literally farm-yard, is a sort of enclosure with only one narrow outlet, shut in by a precipitous wall some 8 or 10 miles in extent, the depth some 1 500 ft. The glacier (9585 ft. above the sea, 200 to 300 ft. high, and 600 paces broad, Boissier), which is the source of the river Jenil, the Barranio del Infierno, etc., have not been much explored. Follow the path over the Colde la Veleta, W. of the picacho, and descend to either T^anjaron or Capilleria. GRANADA. 203 From the Trevelez valley (the hams here are rivals to those of Capilleria ; they are the best samples of the snow-cured Alpujarra hams) you may reach Granada by the way of Ujijar, and the mountain track across to Guadix. Soto de Roma (from Rum, the Chris- tian), situated on the Jenil, the estate of the Duke of Wellington, of some 4000 acres, worth about 8000 a year, and which was given to him by the Cortes. The buildings and grounds have been greatly improved lately. Another excursion may be made across the beautiful Huerta, 2 hours' ride to Santa Fe, whence 3 hours' ride will take the tourist to Padul and the hill called ' El Ultimo Suspiro del Moro ' (the last sigh of the Moor). See p. 165. Those travellers who are unable to make the complete ascent of the Sierra Nevada, may easily, in about 30 hrs., get a fair idea of the scenery by walking or riding (a) to Guejar, a small village lying under the Sierra of that name ; (b) to Huetor, and the Barranco de San Juan, situated under the Picacho de Veleta, where are the quarries from which the green Serpentine is obtained. There is a good road nearly all the way, and the scenery, after passing the small village of Xenis, and beginning the ascent, is exceedingly fine. The posada at Guejar is intolerable, but decent quarters are obtainable in the private house adjoining. N.B. Senor Contreras has upon sale, in his house in the Alhambra, close by the Puerta del Vino, reduced and well executed models of various portions of the palace. Books of Reference. 1 . * Descripcion del Reinode Granada, bajolas Naseritas,' by Simonet ; Madrid, Imprenta Na- cional, 1860, 1 vol. Interesting. 2. ' Inscripciones Arabes de Granada, ' by D. Emilio Lafuente Alcantara ; Madrid, 1859 ; very interesting. This young author is, after Sr. Gayangos and Estebanez Calderon, the most able Arabic scholar. The Nazerite dynasty is treated here at some length, as also by Simonet in his work (see supra, No. 1), and by Sr. Gayangos in ' Memorial Historico Espanol, ' vol. x. 3. ' El Libro del Viagero en Granada/ by M. Lafuente Alcantara ; Granada, Sanz, 1843, 8vo. A new edition about to be printed ; good. 4. * Manual del Artista, etc., en Gra- nada, ' by Jimenez Serrano ; Granada, Puchol, 1845, 12mo; reliable. Consult also Boissier's ' Voyage botan- ique dans le Midi de 1'Espagne,' Owen Jones on the Alhambra, and Contreras' 'Monumentos Arabes.' Read Prescott's * Ferdinand and Isabella, ' Washington Irving's various works upon Granada, and the quaint ' Historia de las guerras civilesde Granada,' by Gines Perez de Hita. Statistics of Province, Agriculture, etc. Granada is one of the eight pro- vinces into which Andalusia is now divided, and the most eastern. It is also one of the provinces which, with Almeria, Malaga, and Jaen, are com- prised within the jurisdiction of a mili- tary district, or capitania-general, that extends over 1083 square leagues, and has Granada for residence and centre. The population of the province amounts to about 478,000. It was one of the four Moorish kingdoms, or cuatro reinos, the other three being Seville, Cordova, and Jaen, which contained about 3283 square leagues. The Climate is admirably suited to agriculture, and under the combined influence of an African sun and mois- ture, kept up constantly by the alti- tude and snow of the mountains, which latter, melting the more as the heat becomes greater, flows abundantly into the plains, or vegas, and fertilises their light ferruginous soil, the succession 204 GRANADA PROVINCE. of crops never ceases, and the country teems with every variety of production viz., sugar-cane, hemp, wine, oil, silk, corn, and fruits of all sorts. Such is, indeed, the fertility of this privileged soil that, with but little trouble, and with no other means than the primitive Moorish implements, the corn will yield in some vegas 70 to 90 per cent, and the Lugeralike alfalfa (medicago sativa), grown in * tierras de regadio, ' or irrigated lands, will bear twelve or sixteen cuttings in the year. Climate. Granada is the complement, as the French say, of Malaga ; we mean, of course, as a medical sta- tion ; and when the passive, indifferent Spaniard shall have tasted the cup of gold, and be roused to enterprise by the prospect of lucre, English comforts will doubtless be increased, and con- vert these places into the most fre- quented medical stations in Europe. Malaga for the winter, and Granada for the spring and summer, are likely to be finally adopted as residences suited to invalids, to whom the gradual transi- tion between the two would be more advantageous than to return to England in the summer after a winter at Malaga. Granada, besides its interesting sights, possesses many other inducements for a protracted residence : Pleasant walks along the Genii and Darro, excursions in the environs, ascents on the moun- tains, shady promenades in the gardens of the Alhambra and Alameda, some good shooting in the surrounding sotos, a public library, uninvestigated to this day, and whose officials, Sres. Con- treras and others, are civil and obliging. There is also here a constant contrast, not devoid of charms and strangeness, between the Alpine character of the glaciers of Sierra Nevada, the hills snow-capped in the vicinity, the wild mountain torrents of the Genii and Darro, and the African sun, the tropi- cal vegetation, the eastern aspect of the houses, dress, and manners. In summer, owing to its northern aspect and proximity to the glaciers, the heat is seldom intolerable, and during the winter 1883-4 it was our lot to experi- ence its rigor es; and we can^testify that had the house we lived in been better constructed, no fires would have been needed, and as it was, they were only lighted six or eight times. The tem- perature changes suddenly in winter. A raw, fresh breeze sweeps over the town in the morning, subsides in the middle of the day, and the N.E. com- mences to blow about dusk, when it is sometimes keenly felt. The oscillatory movements of the barometric column take place then on a scale of about 23 mill. The frequent cases of nervous, and a variety of neuralgic affections which occur at Granada, are the natural effects of the prevalence of the 1ST. and E. winds, whose stimulant action irritates the nervous system. (Dr. Cazenave.) Anginse and affections of the stomach, and intermittent fevers, which are observed here, are principally owing to the variability of the climate, and calculus is frequent ; but notwith- standing this, Granada is very healthy, and no endemic illness is peculiar to its climate. The finest and most pleasant months are April, May, and the begin- ning of June. Death Rate. 1.20 in the capital. But the fact must not be lost sight of that Granada is the most ignorant pro- vince of Spain, and that the larger pro- portion of the deaths arise from easily preventible causes. That the death rate is not enormously more than it actually is speaks volumes for the climate. There were thousands of lepers found in the city when the Catholic kings visited it after its surrender in 1492 ; and they founded, in consequence, the magnificent hospital de San Lazaro. GRANADA- -PROVINCE. 205 However, this cruel malady was at no time exclusively characteristic of this healthy and favoured region, but ex- tended itself all over the south of Spain from a very early period. Already, in the 13th century (1284), King St. Ferdinand had founded the hospital de San Lazaro at Seville. Lepers are fast disappearing in Spain, there having been only 176, according to the latest accounts (1860). The principal hospi- tals are at Granada, Seville, Coruna, and Barcelona. At the first, there were only 56 cases in 1860, and 74 in the preceding year. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS MADE AT THE UNIVERSITY OF GRANADA. Centigrade Thermometer. Temperature 1 of Air. K ^ Months. *o .ti Aver- Maxi- Mini- 1 age. mum. mum. Q a December 9.6 18.3 i.i 16 173-3 January . February 6.7 8-5 14.9 0.6 I.O 5 9 52.8 59-9 March 13.2 25.2 2-3 5 52.8 April . 14.7 27.0 3-3 8 66.3 May . 1 8.1 32.0 6.0 9 50.6 June ' 22.1 34-i 9-4 i 3- 1 July . 25-9 37-9 12.9 August 29.1 38.5 17.8 September 22.7 34.9 10.5 i 3.1 October . 18.1 28.8 7-3 7 51.7 November 12.7 21.5 4-9 9 69.2 Totals . 70 582.8 Average annual atmospheric pressure 703.9 ,, ,, temperature . . 16.8 Maximum temperature, August 8 . 38.5 Minimum ,, January 21 0.6 This province is composed of plains and mountainous ranges, the principal of which are Sierra Nevada to the S., the slopes of which are almost washed by the Mediterranean, and the highest peak, Mula Hacen, rises 11,723 ft. ; the Sierra de Tejada, to S. and W., and the Sierra Morena farther to the N., thus forming naturally most formidable ramparts on every side except to the E. The principal rivers are the Darro and Genii ; the first rises 4 leagues from Granada, close to Huetor, and the latter takes its source at Giiejar, in Sierra Nevada, and joins the Darro in the vega, which both irrigate, and taking in several minor streams, such as Dilar, Monachil, Alfacar, etc., flows through the Campos de Loja, and enters the province of Cordova through Hiz- najar. Owing to the difference in the temperature in the morning and the evening on Sierra Nevada, and its influence on the melting of its snow, the Genii has a sort of ebb and flow, rising in the evenings, whilst it de- creases during the night. The Darro is said to contain particles of gold, and some poor people earn lOr. to 2 Or. a-day in these diggings. In 1526, a crown made from the nuggets found here was given to Isabel, wife of Charles V., and in 1862 the municipality pre- sented the queen with a large one, supposed likewise to have been the produce of this river. There are some mineral springs, and those especially of Alhama (saline hot springs) are con- sidered most efficacious, and were much resorted to by the Arabs ; the ferrugi- nous carbonated spring of Lanjaron is also frequented for the diseases attend- ant on lymphatic temperaments ; those of Alomartes and Baeza are hydro-sul- phurous (for diseases of the skin). The seasons for Alhama are April to June, and September to October (see General Information : Mineral Baths) ; for Lan- jaron (14 mineral springs hydrates of magnesia and soda) 15th June to 15th September. The province abounds with mines (many of which were advantageously worked by the Moors), and the moun- tains abound in marble and metals. Antimony is found at Motril and Aldeira. Zinc, copper, lead and silver, are also 206 GRANADA PROVINCE. frequent. Trade generally, however, j is exceedingly limited, and consists chiefly in the exportation of iron and lead ores, refined lead, esparto and fruit, which are shipped at Motril and Almeria. There is not one single manufacture of silk or linen ; and yet there was a time when the silk trade occupied thousands of hands, and the produce was sent to Florence, Pisa, Genoa, and the Levant. The vegas and hills were then clothed with the mul- berry. The produce of each farm in the vega, under the Moorish rule, yielded on an average about 200 a-year, and the taxes paid by the farmers to the king amounted to about 20, 000. The silk crops that belonged to the Spanish monarchs were farmed for the sum of 181,500 gold ducats a-year ; there were 130 mills and 300 villages, of which 50 contained mosques, and 50,000 men could be mustered from the Alpuj arras, Sierra, and plains. But the low price of corn and other produce (the former often sold for 20r. the fanega, and less) is the cause of the poverty of the people and of the low wages (5r. to 8r. a mechanic, 5r. a labourer, and 2|r. at Loja, Alhama, and the Alpujarras) ; and these evils are aggravated by the want of roads. But in a few years it may be expected that Granada will enjoy still greater railway communica- tion with the principal centres of con- sumption and trade. The valuation of the province, as estimated in 1857, was as follows : /?. Landed property . . 52,650,000 Property in towns and villages . . . 18,600,000 Manufactures . . 8,950,000 Trade .... 3,050,000 Cattle sheep . . 1,960,000 85,000,000 Or little upwards of ,810,000. As for schools or public education, there is little or none, beyond a toler- ably well -managed university at Granada, and some wretched public schools and private academies. About 100 in 1000 know how to read and write, y las cuatro reglas, and out of a population of nearly 480,000 not more than 25,000 attend school regularly. As a race, the Granadino is lively, intelligent, bold, and the women are fascinating and graceful ; but neither is the former as elegant, witty, and moqueur as the Sevilian majo, nor the latter as pretty and sprightly as the Malaguehas. The inhabitants of the Alpujarras, the descendants of the Berbers, are a very fine race hardy, honest, grave, sober. The men are tall and handsome ; they are very fond of drawing the navaja as an * ultima ratio, ' and in the criminal statistics of Spain this province ranks as the second for murder and maiming. In objects of interest, Granada and its Alhambra are of the highest order in Spain, and the Alpujarras will not fail to interest the artist, geologist, and botanist ; we recommend pedestrians who may have visited and scaled every peak in the Pyrenees and Switzerland to come here and explore this new field, which has been almost closed hitherto to scientific investigation. All who feel an interest in the poetry of the past are doubtless already ac- quainted with this land of romance, in which every tower has been the scene of some love-legend, and every ruin the record of some chivalrous deed. To those who would know more upon this score, and as a fitting preparation pre- vious to visiting this part of Spain, we recommend the reading of Washington Irving's * Tales of the Alhambra,' Prescott's c Ferdinand and Isabella/ and J.Y.Gibson's ' Ballads ' (London, 1887). Granada was for a long period of years the seat of scholarship in Spain, and gave birth to some most eminent writers GRANADA PROVINCE. 207 and artists. Amongst others we must mention Fray Luis de Granada (1505). Hurtado de Mendoza (1505), who wrote several religious works, was the historian of the war of Granada, and author of that early Gil Bias, ' Lazarillo de Tonnes.' Ma/rmol (1573), the author of 'Description de Africa.' Ponce de Leon (1529), who wrote on theology. Suarez (1548), one of the most learned Jesuits, much praised by Hugo Grotius. In arts we may mention Bocanegra (1660), Alfonso Cano (1601), and Moya (1610), all celebrated painters, and the second a great sculptor besides. The best time to visit this province and make excursions in the mountains is from June to October. April and May are pleasant months at Granada. The Sierra Elvira, Tejada, Huescar, etc., are not quite so Alpine in character, or lofty as Sierra Nevada, but more pic- turesque and woody. History. After the battle of Guada- lete (A.D. 711), in which King Rodrigo perished, and with him the Gothic kingdom, the victorious Tarik advanced towards Toledo, whilst he entrusted to his lieutenants the subjugation of the surrounding provinces. The conquest of the Illiberitan region was assigned to Zaid Ibn Kesadi, who soon achieved it, and fixed his residence in Illiberis, the capital. The exact situation of this city has not been ascertained, as it was completely destroyed, and the ruins partly used in the building of Granada ; but according to the Arab, Ibn-1-Jathib, and some other writers, it must have been about 3 m "W. of Granada, and close to Sierra Elvira. Illiberis was an important place under the Romans, who had fortified and enlarged the primitive Phoenician city. It is mentioned as such in Pliny, 'Hist. Nat.,' and was raised to a municipium under the empire. The Goths had not lost sight of its natural advantages, and maintained its rank as metropolis of that widely ex tending region. It was a bishop's see, and is celebrated in the annals of the Church as being the site chosen for thb first council held in Spain (300 A.C.). Granada was at that time a small city, inhabited chiefly by the descendants oi those Jews who had fled from the per- secution of the Roman emperors in the East, and had been dispersed over various parts of Southern Europe. The Amalekites, as they were then called, settled in Spain, where they founded many colonies. They were of very high caste, and succeeded in acquiring an independent position and influence, which at first they used to promote their commercial interests, but subsequently extended to political purposes. Their enormous riches and power drew upon them eventually the distrust of the Goth, who persecuted the race with merciless envy and sectarian hatred. The Jews, who had never ceased to hold intercourse with the Berbers themselves half Jews and half Pagans, and who had always looked on Spain as their special prey formed a plot, which was to deliver them of their op- pressors, and open the gates of every city in Spain to their allies. This exten- sive plot was discovered, and led only to an aggravation of rigour. But at length the Goth was overcome, and thus it was the Jews who principally as- sured the success of the Mohammedan, or rather Berber, invasion of Spain. As a reward, therefore, of their support, the Jews of Granada were allowed in- dependent residence, whilst the Arabs retained Illiberis, which they called Elvira ; just as Hispalis (Seville), was turned into Ixbilia, and Saetabis (Jativa) became Xathiba. The etymology of Granada, which the Arabs first called Karnattah-al-Yahoud (Granada of the Jews), has been much and often dis- cussed. No satisfactory explanation 208 GRANADA PROVINCE. has been given of this. The city then was most probably situated on the site now occupied by the parish of San Ceci- lio, and under the shelter of the Torres Bermejas, the Red Towers. It was, nevertheless, made dependent of the Wall, or governor, of Elvira. About 743, thousands of Eastern as well as African colonists came to Spain, allured by the hope of riches and the report of the climate, so like their own. Dis- cord, originating from difference of race and sects, ensued, to settle which the Khalif of Damascus decided that the third of the remaining lands belonging to the Christians and Jews should be given over to the new comers, and each tribe settled in that region which pos- sessed the greatest analogy with the native country. Thus, to the Egyptians were allotted the arid plains and table- land of Murcia and Estremadura. Those who came from the mountainous regions of Palestine fixed themselves in the serrania of Ronda and Algesiras ; the legion from the valley of the Jordan chose the fields of Archidona and Malaga, and 10,000 Damascenes settled in the province of Elvira, which re- minded them of the sunny land they had quitted. Indeed the vega appeared to them to surpass their 'Ghauttah ' in extent, fertility, and beauty ; the Genii was not unlike the Barada, and the Sierra Nevada bore resemblance to the snowy summits of Mount Hermon. In their Oriental style, they called it rapturously the Sham or * Damascus ' of the West a terrestrial paradise, whose fountains were pure and fresh as the breath of the houris. Here the myrtle and the pome- granate, the fig-tree and the citron, the olive and the vine grew in wild luxu- riance ; the lofty sierra screened the city from the icy north, and the town rose on a height, like a throne of splen- dour, canopied by that deep, turquoise, spotless sky of Spain (which really seems like a reversed Mediterranean), 'so calm and soft, and beautifully blue, that God alone was to be seen in hea- ven.' (Byron.) We hear little or nothing of Granada's destinies until the formation of the Ummeyah empire of Cordova, under the rule of which the city was enlarged and fortified. The Kadimah (or old fortress) was built about that time, and shortly before, the Kal'at Al-hamra, or red castle, was erected to oppose the inroads of the disaffected tribes. On the dis- solution and downfall of the Ummeyah dynasty (which was hastened by the death of its chief supporter, Al-Mans- sour), the Mohammedan empire in Spain was broken up into numerous petty in- dependent kingdoms, or tafias. Granada then fell to the lot of its Berber, Wall Zawi Ibn Zeyri, who became its first king. The importance of Granada rose rapidly. Its palmiest days were under the Nazerite dynasty, which was founded by Ibn-1-Ahmar, the builder of the Al- hambra palace. During his glorious, yet peaceful reign, it became the em- porium of the West, and, according to Arab authorities, boasted a population of 400,000 inhabitants, besides a garri- son of 60,000 soldiers. But civil strife (that usual Moslem germ of death and disunion) and petty personal jealousies amongst the governors of rival cities, together with the difference of races between the tribes that composed the heterogeneous court, people, and ha- rem (that typical Camarilla), all has- tened the denouement of the stirring and poetic drama which forms her his- tory, by seconding but too effectually the plans of the wily and daring Chris- tian princes, whose covetousness and^er- sonal ambition went, as usual, by the more popular names of orthodoxy and patriotism. The marriage of Ferdinand of Aragon with Ysabel of Castile sealed the fate of divided Granada by uniting LA GRANJA. 209 the resources of the nation ; and after a protracted siege, signalised by daily deeds of prowess on both sides, the city at last surrendered on June 2, 1492. On the morning of that day Boabdil, on the banks of the Genii, delivered up the keys of the Alhambra to Ferdinand and Isabella, the former of whom, ac- cording to Arab chronicles, compelled him to dismount and kiss his hand, and addressed him in very harsh terms. The standards of the Cross of Castile, Ara- gon, and Santiago waved on the shat- tered walls of the Alhambra, and thus ended the Mohammedan rule in Spain. Boabdil and his followers, after spend- ing some time in the Alpujarras, em- barked for Fez on board the very ships which had escorted Columbus on his second voyage to America, carrying with him his riches, which, though much diminished, amounted to the then enormous sum of 9,000,000 maravedis. Not long after his arrival in Morocco, where he had met with a hospitable and honourable welcome, he lost his life in a battle fought on behalf of his ally, thus dying for a cause which was not his own, whilst he had cowardly de- serted the interests of his throne. GRANJA (LA). Routes and Conv. From Madrid by rail to Villalba in |hr. ; whence by special dil. in attendance ; fares, etc., see Segovia (6 hours in all). At Vill- alba several public conveyances daily during the season (la temporada), and only one in winter. This route should be taken by all means, whenever prac- ticable, for the sake of the splendid scenery as one crosses the Puerto de Nava Cerrada, on the slope of the Penalara (8500 ft), and then dives down by the Siete Vueltas to the village of Balsain. From November to Feb- ruary, however, the road is blocked with snow, and La Granja must be approached from Segovia, by the new line of railway from Medina del Campo. There is also a picturesque summer route from the Escorial over the Gua- darrama range. N.B. The fountains only play on great holidays, and weekly when the Court is in residence. Inn. Hotel Europeo ; good. General Description. La Granja (the Grange), also called San Ildefonso, is a Sitio Real. 2 m. from this stood formerly the Palace of Valsain, which Philip II. had embellished, now a ruin. Philip V., who liked the surrounding country, decided on building a palace, which, as usual, was not only to equal, but to eclipse Versailles. La Granja, situated 3840 ft. above the sea, abun- dant in water and trees, appeared to him a suitable site. This grange or farm-house was therefore purchased from the Segovian monks of El Parral. The works were begun in 1719, and completed in 1746. The architects employed were Jubarra, Sachetti, Du- mandre, Thierry, etc. But, as often happens, when this golden cage was ready, Philip V. died (1746), not with- out having, however, sojourned in it for some months. Charles III. built the village, and made several important additions to it. Every year the court removes to this palace when the heal and tercianas begin at Aranjuez, and usually remains July, August, and September. Palace. The principal fagade looks towards the gardens. The central apartments are inhabited by the royal family, and in the wings the household are lodged. The modern apartments are airy and cheerful, well furnished, but without magnificence. In the lower floor there is a good collection of 21.0 JEREZ. statues and antiquities, which was formed by the celebrated Queen Chris- tina of Sweden ; but the best paintings and marbles have been removed to the Madrid Museum. The Colegiata, or Chapel Royal, was designed by Arde- man ; it is in nowise remarkable. The ceilings and domes are by Bayeu, Maella, and other mediocrities. Observe the fine jaspers which compose the retablo, the fine lapis lazuli tabernacle, the tombs of Philip V. and his queen Isabella Farnese( poor French work), and, especi- ally, the splendidly embroidered vest- ments and the man ties of theVirgin. The Gardens are, however, the great attrac- tion here. They are certainly the finest in Spain, and held by Spaniards as very superior to those of Versailles. Observe the Cascade Cenador, a grand sheet of falling water, which glitters gloriously in the sun. There are twenty-six foun- tains, many of them very remarkable ; the principal are Fuente de las lianas (or the frogs); a series of cascatels, called La Carrera de Caballos ; El Canastillo, a large corbeille of flowers and fruits from which the water spouts en gerbe, forty jets in number, and rises to 75 ft. That of the Fama reaches 130 ft., and the Banos de Diana is an admirable mythological scene, before which the never -would -be -amused Philip Y. stopped for a moment when it was completed. ' It has cost me, ' he said, * three millions, but for three minutes I have been amused ! ' The statues most admired are Apollo, Daphne, Liicretia, Bacchus, America, etc. The usual labyrinth, Swiss hills, etc., commonly seen in every royal gar- den, are also here. The reservado, or private gardens, which contain indiffei- ent conservatories and a fine orchard, El Potosi, require a special papeleta. Excursions can be made to El Paular, riding by the Reventon, a pass from which a good view is obtained of the Penalara and surrounding mountains. El Paular, once a wealthy Carthusian convent, is now scarcely worth seeing, as it has been seriously injured, used as a glass - manufactory etc. , and the paintings removed to the Madrid Museo. It was erected by Juan I. of Castile. The church dates middle of the 15th century. The Capilla de los Reyes is the work of Alfonso Rodrigo, 1390. The ceilings were painted by Palomino. There are two or three fine tombs. Close by is also the indifferent villa of Queen Christina, called Quita Pesares. Six miles off is the small unfinished palace of Rio Frio, which was begun by the widowed queen of Philip V. The boar-hunting is first-rate, and frequently enjoyed by the Court. Books of Reference. 1. ' Com- pendio historico, topog., etc., de los Jardines y Fuentes del real Sitio de San Ildefonso,' by Sedeno ; Madrid, A. Mar- tinez, 1825, 8vo. ' Guia y descripcion del Real Sitio de San Ildefonso, 3 Bre- tanos and Castellarnau ; Madrid, 1884. JEREZ (pron., HEREZ). Hotels. Fonda de Jerez, in Calle de las ISTaran jas ; Fonda de Europa, in the Corredera. Well situated. A tramway (fare, 2r.) connects the rly. station with the town. Casino. In Calle Larga. English papers taken in. Post-Office. In the Calle Medina. British Vice-Consulate and U.S.A. Consular Agency. Bull-ring. Fights begin in May. Routes. From Seville, by rail, 3 hrs. From Cadiz, by rail, 1 hr. ; dis. 30^ m. ; stations, San Fernando, Puerta Real, Puerta Sta. Maria, through a rich wine-growing country, studded with gay-looking whitewashed caserios. JEREZ. 211 From Gibraltar. A wild ride of 174 leagues across picturesque scenery. Itinerary. Leagues. Gibraltar San Roque to la Polvorilla . 3^ Alcala de los Gazules (sleep here) 4 Paterna 5 Jerez 5 (60 miles. ) 1 7^ Alcald de los Gazules. A decent posada ; 8827 inhabitants, close to the Barbate. It was a small Roman town fortified by the Arabs, and which be- came the appanage and stronghold of the puisaant family of the Gazules, whence its name, Al kabat, the fortress of the Gazules. Tne castle was blown up by the French in 1811. The old town was perched, so to speak, on a lofty hill surrounded by smaller cerros ; nothing remains of it save portions of its walls and the gates called Nueva and De la Villa. The new or present town stands on the slopes of the Cerro de los Arcos, embosomed amid vines. The city contains vestiges, none of great importance, of the 15th and 16th cen- turies. In its plaza, once de San Jorge, now de la Constitucion, is the old Par- roquia. It preserves only an ogival portal, with pretty statuettes of the 15th century, when it was built ; all the interior is classical, with precious mar- bles and fine black jasper of Pena Jarpa. The belfry, some 180 ft. high, is built of brick and crowned with ex- quisite azulejo work. The large Domi- nican convent de las Sagradas Llagas, which the Marques de Tarifa founded, has been turned into barracks and stores. Paterna. Formerly an appanage of the Duques de Alcala. Here are crossed some heights which divide this small hamlet from the Cuenca of the Guad- alete, the celebrated Cartuja of Jerez is left to the right, and in the distance, and through the cortijos, ranches, de- hesas, all things of semi- African Anda- lusia, we descry Jerez, one of the pret- tiest Andalusian cities. From Ronda, riding, 16 leagues. A heavy ride across the Serrania de Ronda, but which can be performed with all safety. Itinerary. Ronda to Grazalema El Bosque Arcos (sleep here) . Jerez (50 miles.) Leagues. 3 3 5 5 16 Leave Ronda at 6 A. M., bait the horses and breakfast at El Bosque at 10A.M., and get into Arcos at about 5.30 P.M. General Description. Jerez de la Frontera, so called to distinguish from Jerez de los Caballeros, is a pleasantly situated, sunny, busy, tidy town. It belongs to the province of Cadiz, and has a population of 55,000 souls. The houses are all whitewashed or gaily painted, with elegant miradores, charm- ing cool patios, and so clean and fresh that they appear but just built. There is a pretty plaza with stone seats all round, and stately palms waving their green plumage and golden fruit in the air. There is great couleur locale about the houses and the people, who seem to have retained more than any other Andalusian province all the softness of manner, the gentleman-like bearing, the graceful mien and atti- tudes and refinement of the Moors. There are some English, German, and French wine - merchants established here, and some of them possess very pretty villas in the environs. Besides its palace -like bodegas, the abode of King Sherry, there are some sights which deserve the tourist's attention 212 JEREZ. such as the Alcazar, Cathedral, Church of San Miguel, and la Cartuja ; but all these, and the renowned bodegas, can be easily seen in a day, by commencing early, and returning late to Cadiz or proceeding to Seville. Historical Notice. Jerez was one of the earliest Phoenician colonies in Spain, the 'Asidoquae Caesarina' of Pliny, and not the Persian Chiraz as many authors have erroneously asserted. The name Xerez Sidonia is found on Latin charts of the 13th and 14th centuries, Asidona being a corruption of Asido. The Mussulmans turned Ccesaris Asi- dona into Cseris Sidonia, abbreviating it finally to Cseris alone. They thus suppressed the second syllable, as they did with the Roman name of Caera- gusta (Caesar Augusta) applied to Zara- goza. Close to it took place the battle of the Guadalete which opened Spain to the invading Moor. Ferdinand III. , el Santo, recovered it in 1251, but it was retaken by the Moors, to be re- gained 1264 by Alfonso the Learned, who granted to it many important pri- vileges, and peopling it with forty hi- dalgos, the souche of the present Jerez- ana nobility ; fortifying it considerably, he styled it the frontier keep of Anda- lusia, whence its name, de la Frontera. In the municipal archives of the town there still exists the original chart of grant signed by this wise and learned king. To the forty gentlemen who be- came his vassals, he grants to hold in feud, 'houses, six aranzadas of vine- yards ; two of huerta ; fifteen of olive grounds, six aranzadas of carefully plant- ed vines, six yugadas (the extent which twelve bullocks can plough in a day) for corn, and besides 200 maravedis of the king's privy purse. ' Sights. The Alcazar. This pictur- esque old palatial fortress, which has been the scene of so many heroic deeds, melancholy confinements, and amorous scenes, looks as if it had been but just fin- ished, for the soft climate of Andalusia preserves monuments in all their pris- tine state. It is close to the charming shady Alameda, and from the platforms of its Torre del Homenage and the octa- gonal tower to the left, the views ex- tend over its own gardens, and an hori- zon formed by Sierras richly tinted with green and purple hues, and worthy of a Gaspar Poussin or a Claude de Lorraine. Its chapel is small and circular, and was founded by Alfonso the Learned. This palace, the property of the youth- ful Duke of San Lorenzo, has been re- cently repaired. The Salon del Trono and patios are all that attract any notice. <&B%fcral. The Colegiata was begun in 1695, and was completed by Cay on, the architect of the Cathedral of Seville. It is a good (!) specimen of churriguer- esque. The interior is large, spacious, lofty, but in pseudo-classical bad taste. Attached to the cathedral is a good library and monetario collected by the Bishop of Siguenza, Diaz de la Guerra, a native of Jerez. San Miguel. Its fa9ade is of bastard Grseco-Roman, a mask hiding a former plain but not inelegant ogival mediaeval front ; there are Berninesque pillars, statues, and details in questionable taste. The lateral portals have retain- ed exquisite portions of the Gothic period. The Sagrario is a Corinthian chapel, also indifferent. The interior is very elegant, and were it carefully re- paired, would be most striking. It be longs to the period of decline, when it was built (1482). It consists of three naves divided by massive pillars, from whose plain and elegant capitals the ogival arches of the lateral naves spring, not without boldness, and which sup- port the groups of shafts or rods in which the roof of the centre nave rests. The piers of the transept are higher JEREZ. 213 than the rest, composed of bundles of shafts and elaborately ornamented with foliage, niche-work, and mouldings. The transept is most profusely orna- mented ; the lines and details are com- plicated, and the roof, pillars, arches, etc., are exuberantly loaded with tracery and net-work. Roberts' picture of this transept, though poetised, conveys a just idea of the effect produced. Ob- serve in the presbytery of high altar, not the three orders adapted by igno- rant restauradores to the original Gothic, but the excellent bassi-relievi by Mon- tanes, and representing Annunciation, Nativity, Adoration, Circumcision, Transfiguration, our Lord in Limbo, and St. Michael, for which he received 8200 ducats. It dates about 1625. All the conditions of the contract between him and the church, with the detailed description of the relievos, how they were to be executed, etc., and other curious information respecting this fine retablo, may be found in the archives of this church. The portals inside are elegantly designed ; observe that of Capilla del Bautismo. The altar and small Chapel de las Animas has a re- tablo of the most extravagant painted sculpture representing the souls of pur- gatory, en personne, with St. Michael above, and on left St. Peter holding the keys. Upon the reja which rails it in, and at intervals, are placed five wooden skulls, all crowned, one with a tiara, a second with a kingly crown, a third with a Cardinalate barretta, etc. The Capilla del Sagrario is richly ornamented ; the windows are elegant, the folding doors by Berruquette : the Christ by Montanes. San Dionisio. An exquisite and well-preserved example of the Moro- Gothic style so prevalent in Alfonso el Sabio's time. The facade reminds one of the earlier churches of Cordova and Seville. Observe the painted archivault of portal, with flat leaves on the exter- nal moulding, the projecting aleso with dogs' heads, the agimez under the plain circular windows, and the stone-built tower on left of the apse, and decorated with horseshoe agimeces and buttresses. The apse is likewise of stone, with mas- sive buttresses and middle - pointed windows decorated with delicate mould- ings and Byzantine capitals. The spouts of the gutters are fantastically shaped into varied forms of grotesque animals, peeping through the thick weeds and lichens, and produce a picturesque effect. This, one of the finest, and, as we have already said, of the most perfect and well-preserved, specimens of the Mude- jar style in Spain, was built and dedi- cated to St. Dionysius (to whose inter- cession he considered he owed the taking of Jerez) by Alfonso the Learned, middle of 13th century. Santiago was built in the time of the Catholic kings. Observe an exquisite ogival lateral fa9ade of the third period with good statues. The principal faade was awkwardly repaired and modernised in 1663. The interior is divided into three elegant naves by ogival arches resting on pillars, whose gilt capitals are in the shape of crowns. Wine-Cellars. These Bacchus' pa- laces are the style of architecture which the Jerezanos admire most ; and palaces they truly are rather than cellars, as some of them consist of ten or twelve spacious naves, containing upwards of 15,000 botas. They are shown to visitors on application to the proprietors or their principal clerks, daily, except Sundaj^s, and until 2 P.M. All the different pro- cesses practised here can be followed in some minutes, from the pressing of the grape to bottling ready for exportation. The bodegas which are better worth a visit are those of Messrs. Gordon, Misa, Byass & Co. , and of Sr. Pedro Domecq. The principal wine - merchants are 214 JEREZ. foreigners, English, German, and French. The wine is not sold on the spot, nor are orders for England received, as this would be a detriment to the merchants' English agents ; besides which the prices really differ little, whether purchased in England or at the bodega, and to be shipped afterwards. The different sorts of wine are generously offered to taste ; and the best qualities are left for the last. Monsieur Domecq's private cellar contains most exquisite varieties of the golden juice. Ask to be introduced to his venerable monster cask, Napoleon. See also Messrs. Gonzalez and Co.'s model bodega. (For particulars of the sherry manufacture and trade cf. 1 Sherryana,' by F.W. C., London, 1887. The Cartuja. Three miles from Je- rez, twenty-five min. drive in a calesa. A good carretela may be also procured for from 25r. to 30r. (6 shillings) there and back. Close to this old Carthusian convent rolls the Guadalete, the Chrysos of the Greeks and Romans, from its yellow waters ; the Arab's river of delight, Wad-al-leded. On its banks the celebrated battle was fought, July 26, 711, between the disorganised ef- feminate army of Don Rodrigo and the Berber undisciplined but wiry bold tribes of Tarik and Moussa. The car- tuja was founded in 1477, by Don Alvaro Obertos de Valeto, who is buried here, and died 1482. The plater- esque portions were executed in the middle of the 16th century. The prin- cipal fa9ade was the work of Andres de Ribera, 1571. Four large fluted Doric pillars flank the superb circular arched portal. The niches are filled with statues of the Virgin, St. Bruno, and St. Austin. Over the cornice is a front with effigy of God the Father. This portal leads to a spacious patio, in which is the bastard Corinthian facade of the church, dating 1667, and over-ornamented with details and indif- ferent statues of saints. There are three patios or cloisters within, the principal of which is classical, and with twenty-four white marble pillars. The second is a claustrillo, with four plain pillars and delicate Byzantine leaf-work on the capitals. It belongs to the Gothic of 'decline as well as the third period. Little remains here now, save the empty cells, an old cross, and some cypresses, of what was once the wealthiest monastery in this part of the world, a repository of arts and a school of learned and wise men, who were first-rate farmers and the most celebrated horse- breeders in Andalusia. Most of its finest Zurbarans were, at the suppression of the convent, sent to France and Eng- land, and have been sold for a song at the sales of Louis Philippe's and Mr. Standish's collections in 1853 ; the rest were removed to and are now at the Cadiz Picture Gallery (Museo). The Yeguada, or breeding stables, were sup- pressed in 1836, and the vineyards sold. In the distance, near La Cartuja, rises a small hill, El Real (the camp) de Don Rodrigo, where this ill-fated monarch had his head-quarters during the battle. Areas de la Front-era (5 leagues), 15,203 inhabitants. A good posada outside the town on the Jerez road. This ancient city rises picturesquely on the S.E. slopes of a huge Mons-Serratus, whose base is watered by the Guadalete, which girdles almost all the town, and is joined amid its fertile plains by the Majaceite. The view oi the distant blue hills of the Sierra blending with the sky is charming from its high Plaza del Ayuntamiento. It was recovered from the Moors in 1234 by the Infante D. Enrique, son of St. Ferdinand. It fell again into the hands of the Moors, and was finally recovered and peopled by Alfonso el Sabio in 1264. It was the Arco Briga of the Iberians, and Arci Colonia of the Romans. Its important position as the key of the Seville and Ronda regions on that side caused it to be called de la Frott,' tera, which, moreover, distinguishes it from LEON. 215 several other arcos. Ecclesiologists will notice the San Pedro Church, which contains one of the finest retablos of the i5th century in all Andalusia. Its compartments represent scenes from the life and martyrdom of the tutelar. The church, which dates of isth cen- tury, has been vilely modernised. That of Sta. Maria is a fine example of the Gothic of the time of the Catholic kings, but is unfinished. Observe its magnificent portal ; its lintel, tym- panum with statuettes and niche work. The interior is divided into three naves. The lateral one very narrow, and as high as the central. The columns elegant and plain. The details round the window very curious, and many most elegant. Observe also the exqui- site plain Gothic portal of the house of Conde del Aguila, and its charming Moro-Gothic agimez window. There is a decent posada at El Bosque (10 leagues). Between its termino and that of Prado del Rey is the abundant source of water which turns into excellent salt, and is called Salinas de Hortales. Grazalema (13 leagues). Posada de la Trinidad; 7549 inhabitants. It was one of the feats of the esforzado Rodrigo Ponce de Leon to capture this then important stronghold the * Lacidulia' of the Romans. It stands on a rocky hill. LEON (Province of). Geographical. The former Reino de Leon has been divided into the five present provinces of Salamanca, pop. 262,383 ; Leon, pop. 340,244 ; Vallado- lid, pop. 246,981 ; Palencia, 185,955 ; and Zamora, pop. 248,502 ; total, 1,284,065. The extent comprised by them is some 20,000 square miles. It is bounded on the K. by the Montes de Leon, a ramification or branch of the Sierra de Asturias ; on the E. by the plains of Castilla la Vieja, Sierras de Oca, de Urbiad, on the S. by the Sierra de Gata, de Francia (5202 ft. above the level of the sea), Sierra de Avilla, which separates it from Estremadura and Castile ; and on the W. by the Sierra de Porto, Portugal, and province of Coruna. The principal rivers are the Luna, Orbigo, Perma, Esla, Ormana, Bernesga, from N. to S., which all empty themselves into the Duero and the Tormes. The principal hilly dis- tricts are Laceana, Babia, Arguelles, Omana. The southern slopes of the range of hills that divide Asturias from Leon are less rapid and steep on this side, but like the other in aspect and variety. The peaks and more elevated plateaux are covered with almost per- petual snow ; a wild vegetation pre- vails in its gorges ; the beech-tree, oaks (Quercus rdbur and Quercus ilex), grow luxuriantly. The plains, extend- ing to some 361 leagues, are wind- blown, treeless, but corn-growing, or consist of pasture-land. History. This kingdom was the second in Spain (Asturias the first) which rose against the Mussulman, and began that long reaction and struggle between North and South, Christianity and Mohammedanism, which lasted up- wards of seven centuries. Pelayo, King of Oviedo, captured Leon from the Infidel, and founded its independ- ence. Alfonso the Catholic (A.D. 739- 57) extended the limits of the reino beyond the Duero to the frontiers of Estremadura. Castile, under Count Fernan Gonzalez, became separate from Leon, to which it belonged, but was once more annexed to it by marriage, and finally absorbed it. The first who was styled King of Leon and Castile was Ferdinand, son of Sancho the Great. His heir, Sancho el Fuerte celebrated for being one of the dramatis 216 LEON, persona in that dramatic poem the * Romancero del Cid, ' was treacherously murdered at the siege of Zamora, by Belledo Dolfos. Alfonso VI., his bro- ther, who had ordered this crime, was raised to the throne under the name of King of Leon and Castile. The two kingdoms were often severed and united again by civil wars, and finally joined at the death of Alfonso IX. in the per- son of St. Ferdinand. The Moors never settled down regularly in Leon not from the valour, indomitable energy, etc. , of the inhabitants, who were driven by them from Toledo into the moun- tain fortresses, but because the cold, damp climate, the poverty of the people, the wretchedness found in cities and villages, churches and palaces, did not tempt them. They, therefore, limited themselves to periodical raids, carrying off cattle, sheep, and grain, and destroying everything with fire and sword. The most celebrated inroads of the Moors took place under Almans- sour, the Moorish Cid ; the first in 996, against Santiago, when all was razed to the ground ; and the next in 1002, when the great hero, ill and weak as he was, assembled 20,000 men at Toledo, and devastated the country on all sides. The kingdom of Leon did not easily re- cover from the constant inroads of the Moor and civil war, and to this day is far behind every other, save Castile and Estremadura, in agriculture, trade, etc. Character and Dress. The Leon- eses differ considerably in character, ac- cording to the nature of the different regions which they inhabit. Thus the highlanders and parameses (paramo, an elevated plateau or table-land) are tem- perate, peaceful, hard-working, and active, whilst those of the plains, and more especially those who live on the banks of the Orbigo and Sil, are indo- lent, dull-minded, dirty, and boorish. On the whole they are a loyal and honest people, fond of home (and what home !), old customs and costumes, far from handsome ; hospitable and kind- hearted, but rude and ignorant, princi- pally given to pasturing, arrierism, and basking in the sun, when it hap- pens to shine. There is great poverty in large and small cities, an absentee nobility, and an overgrown clergy. The dress of the Leoneses is peculiar. The charro and charra are the Leonese majo and maja. Their costume con- sists, for the men, of a slouched hat, an embroidered shirt, a short velvet waistcoat enlivened with square silver buttons and ribbons, a cloth jacket with velvet edgings at the elbows, long cloth gaiters embroidered beneath the knee, and a broad leather belt round the groins, large silver buckles in the shoes. The charra's dress is very be- coming : a red velvet boddice, jubon, with bugles intricately worked into different patterns ; a scarlet or purple petticoat, manteo, embroidered with stars, birds, flowers ; a narrow apron, mandile, embroidered also ; a sash tied up behind ; a square, somewhat short, cloth mantilla, el cenerero, fastened by a silver clasp, corchetc; a caramba in her hair; wrist- cuffs wrought with gold ; a gold -worked handkerchief, rebocillo; jewels and chains with coloured stones all heirlooms complete the female dress, one of the most picturesque in Spain. Maragatos. The origin of this race, which inhabits the district around As- torga, has not been ascertained. Some writers derive it from a Celtiberian ori- gin, others assert it as a Berber descent. Dozy, the learned Orientalist of Ley- den, states that they are the remnants of the Malagoutos, who inhabited Mala- Gothia, a part of the Campi-Gothici, LEON, 217 and who by marriage, etc., had become Christians. A chronicler calls them in 784, ' The highlanders of Malacotitia. ' Many of them held lands about Leon and Astorga when these two cities were repeopled, and their priests had names, all or mostly purely Arab, such as Ma- ham udi, the deacon ; Hilal, the abbot; Airef, the priest, etc. They embraced the nonconformist doctrines in the 8th century, and rose against the self- called orthodox Arabs. ('Recherche sur 1'Hist. et la Litt. de 1'Espagne,' 2d ed. ; Leyden, 1860, vol. i. p. 135). Mr. Dozy finds great similarity between their dress and that of the Berbers of the present day. However, on examin- ing with attention all the different dresses worn by the Moors of Spain, in carvings and pictures contemporary of their dominion in Spain, the pictures at the Alhambra, the bassi-relievi of the Capilla Real at Cathedral of Gra- nada, etc., one cannot find any re- semblance, and must incline, in our humble opinion, to ascribe to them another origin. Might they not be Mauri-Gothi, and the remnants of a mixture between the Berbers and Goths ? The Berbers settled in Asturias more than is generally believed. In 734-741 there was not a single Galician village that was not in their possession ; even in the llth century, there were many Berber families living near Leon, and mentioned in Alfonso V.'s Fuero de Leon, art. 1st. The dress varies some- what at Zamora and Salamanca. Agriculture and Mines. The plains tierra de campos of Palencia, Zamora, and Valladolid, are among the best corn-growing countries in the world. In the province of Leon, sheep are principally reared, and of these it formerly possessed upwards of 396,000 head. The hills produce ex- cellent timber, and orchards, yielding exquisite cherries, apples, etc., clothe the slopes of the hills, and stretch along the banks of the rivers, in the vicinity of towns. Excellent cheese and butter are made in the hilly re- gions, but not at Leon. Garbanzos, good heady red wine, made at Toro, and mules, are also local products. There are some mines in the reino, once celebrated for the ' Medulas ' mines of gold and vermilion, which Pliny the Younger managed for some time, and said to deserve being worked again. The excavations are curious and worth a visit. Antimony, iron, and coal-beds are also found, but yield unimportant quantities. The Sil is said to carry in its waters traces of gold, as the Darro in Andalusia, and several other rivers both in the Spanish and French Pyre- nees. The Northern and Palencia railways to Ponferrada are calculated to give great impulse to trade and agri- culture, and develop the great re- sources of this country. Climate We entreat tourists to avoid, above all things, visiting this part of Spain either in summer or win- ter. In the former period, the heat and glare, the sandy roads, and furnace breath of evening, affect the stomach, bring on cerebral congestions and Leon- ese doctors a still severer illness, from which few will recover. During winter the wind-blown plains, icy northern blasts, and roads (impassable) with snow, are enough to deter any one. The best months for the visit are April and May, or September, October, and beginning of November. The roads are admirably engineered and well kept. The hills ought to be visited, especially during the summer, and the beautiful scenery of the sierras and Vierzo. An- glers should not forget their rods, as they will find sport in the Sil, Osbigo, Cea, etc. 218 LEON. Leon. Capital of province of Leon, pop. about 12,000; bishopric. For details of province see page 215. Routes and Conveyances. 1st, From Madrid or Bayonne by rail. From Madrid by the Palencia and Ponferrada line. Distance from Palencia to Leon, 76 m. ; time, 5 hrs. ; morning and even- ing trains, both at convenient hours. Fares, 1st cl., Pes. 14.15 ; 2d cl., 10.65 ; 3d cl., 6.40. Description of Route from Palencia to Leon. The route is not interesting, and the towns are small, thinly-peopled, and backward. Paredes de Nava is close to a most ague-feeding lake. There is some fine sculpture by Alfonso de Berrugete in the church of Sta. Eulalia. The route now lies amid flat corn-fields, often inundated by the Esla, and pro- ducing tercianas (ague). There are a desolation and a want of human life about these extensive windblown plains which fill the mind with ennui. This feeling is strengthened by the sombre- coloured dress of the peasantry (brown cloaks, black jackets, and chocolate breeches), and with the expression of their faces, which is that of monoto- nous, vacant, selfish concern, common to all corn-growing farmers, who reap bread which the sun cultivates, and the indulgent God seldom refuses. The rare mud and straw- built cottages do not enliven the tableau. Saliagun. So called from the local patron, St. Tagunt, who was martyrised with San Primitive, 168 of Christ. Visit the celebrated Abbey, though now considerably ruined and desolate. It was a Benedictine monastery, founded in 872, and rebuilt in 905. The church was begun by Alfonso VI. (1121), and finished in 1183. It was once the wealthiest abbey in Spain, possessed boundless territories, and had jurisdic- tion over ninety convents. In the llth century it reached the height of its fame ; and the wealth, power, great learning and piety of its monks, made it the Cluny of Spain. It was the resi- dence of Alfonso IV. Queen Constance of Burgundy built a magnificent palace close to the abbey, at which time the city was thickly peopled with Burgun- dians, English, and Lombards. She also built a church in her palace, where at her death (1093) she was interred. On the death of Alfonso IV. all went amiss. The gates of the city were opened to the Aragonese ; Alfonso el Batallador sacked the abbey and con- vents ; civil war broke out ; the Guilds of Shoemakers, Tanners, and Jugglers sided with the burgesses against the encroaching monks, who were termed ' Gargantones' and 'Beberrones ;' until, moved at last by these same monks, the Pope issued severe bulls against the rebels, whose burgesses and their princi- pal instigator, Count Beltram, appeared before the Council at Burgos (1117), and submitted. Besides Alfonso IV. the monastery has been the refuge and retiro of Bermudo I. (791), Ramiro II. (950), Sancho of Leon (1007). The foreign invader and fire have now almost de- stroyed whatever of art and beauty it possessed. If halting here, visit the church of San Tirso, with fine remains of i2th century work, the church of San Lorenzo, and, 6 m. off, the fine Romanesque monastery of San Pedro de las Duenas. 2d, From La Coruna, etc. One train per day in 1 6 hrs. 3d, From Gijon and Oviedo, by the grand Puerto de Pajares line ; one train per day in 8 and 7 hrs. respectively. Hotels Fonda Suiza. 20 to 30rs. a day. Fonda del Norte, near Plazu- ela de San Francisco. Both poor. The city is 1 m. distant from the station. Cafe. El Suizo. Club. El Casino Leones. Postal and Telegraph Offices. Calle Cuatro Naciones. LEON. 219 Promenades. Paseo de San Fran- cisco ; Papalagninda, near the river, General Description. Leon, once the capital of a powerful monarchy which extended from the shores of the Atlantic to the banks of the Rhone, is nothing now but a large agricultural village, silent and backward. It de- rived much of its importance as the seat of the court of the emperor (Alfonso VII., 1135), whose courtiers lorded it over Kavarre, Cataluna, Biscay, Gas- coigne, etc. ; but, like other capitals which have had nothing else to depend upon but this, prosperity and wealth may be said to have come and gone in their train. There are a few noblemen who still continue to reside here, in their ancient and dilapidated mansions ; but their lands have mostly passed away, through indolence and pride, sometimes into the hands of their own stewards, who were better able to manage them. The scanty population is chiefly com- posed of well-doing farmers, petty em- ployes, maragatos, and arrieros. Be- sides, as Leon is a Levitical city, there is a very numerous staff of capellanes, easily made out by their cocked-hats and sotanas, who live upon the revenues of the cathedral, now much out of pro- portion, though recently curtailed, and a crying anomaly in the decayed and impoverished city. Leon may be said to lie now in torpid lethargy, shrouded in the magnificence of her past, and taking, it would appear, an eternal siesta under the shade of her glorious cathedral. Here may be seen the boyero's creaking cart with spoke- less wheels, which two heavy oxen drag lazily along, whilst the master stands by leaning on his lance-shaped gavilan, almost as immovable as an antique bas- relief, and strings of velvet-coated mules, carrying salt fish, dozing as they walk to the monotonous sound of jingling cascabeles, and led by wide-breeched maragatos with umbrella- sized slouched hats, and the early-to-bed and early-to- rise labrador (which does not seem, to make him more wise), humming a song as he rides crosswise on the pole of his plough. Scenes like this are all that ani- mates the narrow, ill-paved streets. Leon has thus preserved its Gotho-Castilian character, with all its couleur locale, old habits, customs, and costumes, and may be regarded as the key to that terra in- cognita, never properly investigated, which comprises the province of Leon, Asturias, and Galicia, generally called the Switzerland of Southern Europe. The shrill whistle of the railway engine, it is to be hoped, will awake the Leon- eses, and usher their mediseval city into the light and active life of the 19th cen- tury. Its very situation on the high road between the ports of Galicia and Asturias, and the granaries of the Gas- tiles, seems to invite prosperity, and point a future rival to Valladolid, Manufactories those cathedrals of mo- dern times might be erected in these plains, so abundantly watered by three rivers. But that great curse of Spain, want of population, though larger now than it has ever been, is nowhere felt more than here. Thus, on a surface of 15,971 square kil., the population is 358,000, of which about half a dozen are foreign residents, with a thin stream of tourists (transeuntes). The man of pleasure, and the invalid, will do well to avoid this dull, gloomy, Goth town, but not so the antiquary and all real travellers, for whom Leon holds in reserve treasures of the Byzan- tine, Gothic, and Plateresque periods of architecture, besides which, its associa- tions with the early history of Spain, the aspect of its environs, the dress of its inhabitants, and above all, its superb cathedral, one of the finest in Europe, 220 LEON. cannot fail to attract, and will amply compensate for any inconvenience at- tending this detour from the direct lines. The town is pleasantly situated in a fertile plain, on the slopes of a hill. The Torio and Vernesga flow from the N., the former watering its orchards on the E., and the latter girding it on the W. ; and a little below, to the S., both meet and flow into the Esla. History. The 'Cronica General' and early writers state that Leon was built with the ruins of Lancia, Maxima As- turise Urbs (Dion); but it is more gener- ally believed to have been founded, or at least enlarged and fortified, by Tra- jan, who quartered within its walls the 7th Gemina Legion, Pia Felix, one of the three to which the defence of Northern Spain had been entrusted, and assigning to this one especially the task of watch- ing and repressing the movements of the indomitable Astures. The city was built up in the shape of a square Roman camp, with four marble gates corre- sponding to the cardinal points, and hooped in by massive walls, which linked together large and formidable cubo towers. Under Adrian, Legio be- came the residence of the Augustan Legat, the President of Asturias and Galicia, included in the Tarraconensian Province. In the 5th century the Suevi and Vandals vainly strove to bear rule in the city and to dispose of its rich corn-fields. It was finally wrested from the Roman sway by the Goth, Leovigild, who routed the Suevi and Imperialists, and entered the gates 586, according to Risco, but more probably 574-77. He changed the name from Legio into Leon, which was his own, and the city (spared as an exception by Witiza) was not dis- mantled, as almost all others were by his insane decree, which paved the way for the Berber and Moor. Taken easily by the former in 714, it was recaptured by Pelayo after his victory at Cova- donga. In 846 the Moors took it again, and destroyed the city by fire. Re- covered once more by Ordono I., the city was rebuilt and fortified (855, ac- cording to a Got hie codex in San Isidoro Leon), and the palace built on the site of the present cathedral. Alfonso the Great made this city share with Oviedo the advantage of being a court residence, and was a great benefactor. Leon be- came the capital of the monarchy, and residence of its kings under Ordono II., who built the cathedral. This second city was rased to the ground by Al- Manssour, 996, all the inhabitants being put to death. Leon remained a scene of desolation and a heap of ruins until the reign of Alfonso V., who rebuilt and repeopled it. In 1020, a council composed of prelates, abbots, and nobles was held to frame laws for the adminis- tration of Leon, Asturias, and Galicia, which were modifications of the former Gothic ones. Leon resumed its former importance, and continued to be the capital of the Kings of Leon. In 1037 the crowns of Castile and Leon were united by the marriage between Ferdi- nand I. and Dona Sancha. A council, held 1090, declared among other things the substitution of the French (Latin) alphabet for the former Gothic charac- ters. Separated and united several times, the crowns of Castile and Leon were definitely annexed by Alfonso VII., who was proclaimed emperor at the Church of Sta. Maria, May 26, 1135. In his reign, Leon reached to the acme of power and importance. The emperor ruled over a large portion of the penin- sula, and was suzeran of the Kings of Navarre, Counts of Barcelona, Counts of Tolosa, Barons of Gascoigne, Seig- neurs of Montpellier, etc. The magni- ficent festivals that took place at the marriage of his daughter with Garcia of Navarre are mentioned by the historians LEON CATHEDRAL. 221 of that day, who describe at some length, and with great complacency, the gorgeous bed placed in the royal palace of San Pelayo (close to the ca- thedral), with choirs of singers and bands of musicians placed around, and which did not cease to sing and play for many days after the wedding. The Albigenses endeavoured to estab- lish themselves here in the middle of the 13th century. They had already made several converts, and built a church, when the Bishop of Tuy, Don Lucas, preached a new crusade ; the church was razed, and the sectarians expelled. The conquests by St. Ferdi- nand of Seville and Cordova diminished the importance of Leon by drawing its nobility to new and richer lands. At the death of Alfonso XL, Don Pedro removed the court to Seville, and Leon became a mere province of the new and larger kingdom. But after it had ceased being the capital, the city still preserved many privileges, and in the Cortes of 1406-7, its procuradores were entitled to the seat next to Burgos, and had the precedence over Toledo. Leon took part in the rising of the Comuni- dades on hearing that its proposal for holding the Cortes of Castile here was rejected. The city was then the prey of feudal differences and factions, headed by the two great rival Leonese houses of the Lunas and Guzmanes, though Sandoval assumes that the priests and the Jews had the greater part ' de estos alborotos. ' Sights. 1. Cathedral, San Marcos, San Isidoro, minor churches. 2. "Walls, gates, streets, and prout-bits. 3. Private houses. CatjjrtrrRl. Historical Notice. The see of Leon is one of the earliest in Spain, and there is mention of an episcopate as far back as the 3d cen- tury. It is excerta that is, subject to no primate a privilege confirmed in 1105 by Pope Pasqual II. It has been patronised by several kings, especially by Ordono II., but it has not, like Toledo and Seville, been distinguished by the power, munificence, or learning of its prelates ; the principal have been Bishops St. Froylan (900), San Alvito (1057), Pelayo (1073), Manrique de Lara (1199). Leon has possessed three cathedrals. Of the first, built outside the town, there are no vestiges. The second was erected from its ruins on the site of the palace of Ordono II., who gave it up for that purpose. This palace was built on the eastern side of the city, with the ma- terials and on site of the Roman Baths. The cathedral was magnificent, accord- ing to El Tudense's and Sampiro's de- scriptions, but was mostly razed by Al Manssour. Although it was partly re- built by Bishop Froylan, and newly con- secrated and embellished by Pelayo, in 1073 (his will contains the history of the Leonese see and that of the second cathedral's repairs), still, owing pro- bably to the ruinous state in which the edifice must have been left by the Moors, and also to the increase of the city, it was decided to build a new one. The foundations of the existing cathe- dral of Leon were laid by Bishop Ma- rique de Lara. The precise date is not known, but it lies between 1195 and 1200. The name of the architect who designed or began it has not been ascer- tained ; but from a careful examination of early writers, and the opinions emitted by the most trustworthy critics, we incline to think it was Pedro Ceb- rian, who was, a doubtless fact, maestro mayor of the works of the cathedral in 1175 that is some twenty-five years before the works began. He was suc- ceeded in this capacity by Maese Enrique, who died 1277. The works went on very slowly, from want of funds, as we gather from a brief issued 222 LEON CATHEDRAL. by the Lugduncnsis Council, held in 1293, which declares to the faithful that without more alms the works can- not proceed, owing to the magnificence of those already begun. We also know that about 1430 the works of the edifice were being carried on by Guillen de Rohan, or Ridan, to whom the upper portions of the naves and the galleries, ' auditos, ' have been ascribed, and who was employed by Henrique III.'s confessor, Bishop Cusanza. Juan de Badajoz, whose knowledge and prac- tice of florid Gothic and Revival were equally great, completed the cathedral about the year 1512. The whole edifice has now been in course of restoration for ten years from the plans of Juan Madrazo, and another two years will be required for completion. The original fault of too great lightness whence instability of construction is being re- ligiously repeated, and indeed accented. Its Style and Proportions. This cathedral, smaller than those of Toledo, Seville, and Burgos, is a magnificent example of the Early Pointed style in all its simplicity, elegance, and light- ness, not independent of strength. But from the dates given above it will naturally be seen that it must needs contain specimens of the different periods of Gothic architecture which prevailed in Spain during the three centuries of its construction. Indeed, the Revival is also represented here, and the dawning Plateresque has left some traces, not all indifferent. Its general characteristics are harmony between the parts, the original plan having never been deviated from. In lightness and elegance it stands un- rivalled in Spain, and seems to have sprung into the air at the touch of fairy's wand. There is boldness in the outlines, loftiness and freedom, great constructive beauty, absence of ornamentation, variety of forms and wonderful masonry, especially at a time when the art of cutting stone was in its infancy. Mar. Siculus, in his ' De Rebus Hisp. Memor.,' gives the preference to Leon over all the other cathedrals. * Nam etsi templum, quod setate nostra civitas Hispalensis sedificat, alia omnia mag- nitudine, praestat ; siToletanum divitiis, ornamentis et specularibus fenestris est illustrius ; si denique Compostellanum (i.e. Santiago) fortioribus sedificiis, et Sancti Jacobi miraculis, et rebus aliis memorabilius est, Legionense tamen artificio mirabili, meo quidem judicio, omnibus est anteponendum. ' Bishop Trujillo, in his * History of the Ca- thedral of Leon/ compares it to the Duomo of Milan, but adds, it is a Phoenix, and supersedes even that marvel. In his opinion, the architect who designed it was neither Spanish nor Italian, 'for,' he says, 'were he either, he would have built in the usual style adopted in these provinces.' There is little doubt that its architect, whatever his name, was influenced by the examples of the French cathedrals of that time, and in plan, detail, light- ness, character of sculpture, it is thoroughly French. Compare Beau- vais, Amiens, and St. Denis Cathedrals to this one, and the similarity will at once occur. The slender airiness of its construction is so great as to make it difficult to perceive how the edifice can stand, unless by a miracle, as the walls are almost transparent, and yet are 105 ft. high ! The secret of its strength lies, however, in the deep and broad foundations, made with large boulders, and, probably, cemented lime, which, in Spain becomes petrified. This ca- thedral does not contain any particular gem within its walls, as most do ; no octagon like that of Ely's, no chapel like that of King's College at Cam- bridge, no Henry VII. 's Chapel like LEON CATHEDRAL. 223 that at Westminster ; or as, in Spain, the cathedrals of Burgos, Toledo, Se- ville, etc. The source of the beauty of this interior lies mainly in the harmony of its parts in the simple excellence of its planning, the delicacy and richness of the detail throughout, and the perfect crowning of its stained glass. Masonry. The walls are generally 3| ft. thick (in some places only a foot), and the stone employed is of a creamy, warm colour, of great consistency, fine grain, and easily carved. They are built of rubble, faced with stone on both sides. Externally it is all of stone. The hormigon, a peculiarly fine sort of plaster, was used for the esplanade from which it rises. Exterior. The building has the shape of a rectangular parallelogram, from whose straight line the high chapel de- viates on the E. side, so as to describe an arch of a circle inside, and outside half a duodecagon. It rises isolated in a spacious square, the Plaza Mayor, the character of whose brick houses, ar- cades, and Fountain of Neptune, which dates 1789, is quaint, though not in keeping. Observe the platform around it enclosed by chains, with pedestals and sculptured vases and children. A good view can be obtained from the Plaza, standing close to the fountain. Facades. The principal one is to the W., and is seen from the Plaza. The iron railing round this fa$ade dates 1800, but there has disappeared, among other relics of the past, an inscription of the 16th century, placed on a pillar facing the front door, and erroneously transcribed in Mr. Ford's Handbook. It ran thus : Sint licet Hispaniis ditissima pulchraque templa Hoc tamen egregiis omnibus arte prius. This fa$ade is picturesque, effective, and spacious, and is an epitome of the history of the building, bearing vestiges of its different periods, but mostly be- longing to the earliest. It is composed of a grand and effective porch formed by five ogival arches, the three largest being portals, and flanked by two towers ; the latter are different in size and style, and mar the general effect. The N. one is small, severe in style, somewhat heavy, unornamented, and of two stages ; the windows of the first being circular, those of the second slightly pointed, and crowned with a massive octagon steeple, clumsily de- corated. This tower, from its style, we may ascribe to the early part of the 14th century. The S. tower is of the 15th century, light, lofty, forming five stages, of the Decline. The open-worked steeple is very elegant, rises freely from the square platform, and looks like a tent made of guipure. On this tower and at different heights are the words, ' Maria, Jesus Xps. Deus Homo, ' and *Ave Maria, gratia plena, Dnus. tecum.' It is called the clock-tower. Thia facade is composed of three stages ; the first is formed by three ingresses, with double arches forming a very sharp ogive, the central being higher and wider than the rest. These constitute porches formed by three decrescent and concentric deeply-recessed arches sharply pointed. The sides within the porches are lined with canopied niches, three on a row, the pedestals of which sally at right angles, springing from the basement. There are evident vestiges of the influence of the Byzantine Tran- sition school in the forms and propor- tions of the small pillars, the leaf orna- ment of the capitals, the handling of flower-decoration, "and not less in the quaint original treatment of the large cabbage-leaf and stem forming the eyes, mouth, and nose of the grotesque satyrs or mascarons. These are all examples of the 1 2th century . The statues, forty in all, belong to the second Gothic 224 LEON CATHEDRAL. period ; they are rude in execution and belong still to the Byzantine manner, but they deserve close attention, on ac- count of the costumes, composition, and meaning. Those in the central porch are the best, and represent kings and prelates, virgins and monks. Those in the porch next to the N. tower are earlier still, and inferior, but interesting for the composition. They represent several kings and a queen holding scales and a sword, on the blade of which the inscription, * Justitia est uni- cuique dare quod suum est.' Here was held, in the 13th century, no doubt, an open, public court of appeal ; and what confirms this supposition are the words, ' Locus appellationis, ' in Gothic char- acters, placed on a pillar bearing the shields of Castile and Leon, while in the background a king is seated and passing judgment. The central door- way is divided by a low pillar support- ing an effigy of the ' Virgen Blanca, ' the French Notre Dame des Neiges, en- closed within glass, and dating the early part of the 15th century, to which are attached indulgences granted by Bishop Cabeza de Vaca (Front de Boeuf ) in 1436 to the faithful who will pray to her. Over the principal portal is an alto-relievo, most probably painted for- merly, and representing the Last Judg- ment, a work which may be ascribed to the 14th century. On the archivolts, and to complete this scene, are groups representing, on one side, the blessed and all the phases of celestial bliss, whilst the other represents the wicked, personified by grotesque figures, in every possible quaint attitude and di- versity of aspect, and a wild Dantesque mob of urchin fiends wearing the local monteras. Over the S. portal is an- other alto-relievo representing the Vir- gin's Transito, or death, and her Coronation in heaven : the archivolts here bear choirs of angels and virgins seated under canopies. The relief over the 1ST. portal, which is the earliest, is divided into four compartments, repre- senting scenes from Scripture. The doors themselves are carved, and repre- sent (the central) crosses and devices in the plateresque style ; the N., the Death and Resurrection, and the S., very plain, is decorated with ogival patterns. Over these ingresses runs a balustraded gallery or parapet with open-work decorated pinnacles of the 13th century. Over it, and within an early ogive, observe a glorious decorated rose-window. Above it and crowning the upper stage, which belongs to the plateresque, and is the work of Juan de Badajoz, is a large relievo re- presenting the Annunciation, with the vase of lilies, usually placed in all cathedrals, as most of them are de- dicated to the Virgin, and emblematic of her purity. The plateresque work above is formed by two small turrets or lanterns with triangular points, and connected by an elegant gallery. Be- tween the lanterns rises a triangular retablo with a rose in the centre, flanked by Ionic pillarets and three statuettes. Originality and great lightness are pro- duced in this fagade by the vacant spaces left between the masses, the im- pulsive force of the arches of the central nave against the towers being checked by the light and airy flying buttresses. The niches on the buttresses flanking the towers have never been filled up ; they are thin, and rise up to above the roof. The latter consisted formerly of two slopes, or vertientes. Southern Facade. This elegant fa- $ade forms three stages ; the first or lower one is crowned by an open-worked gallery, and composed of three very acutely pointed ingresses ; the central larger, and the archivolts decorated with relievo ornaments, simulated arch- lets, and statuettes, all the work of the LEON CATHEDRAL. 225 beginning of the 15th century. The second stage was formerly composed of two large ogival windows and a rose above ; but having needed repairs, this portion was modernised. The third or upper stage is of the Revival ; there is little sculpture here, and most of the statues are wanting. Observe the colos- sal one of San Froylan, and over the central portal the funeral with monks and priests, probably of the bishop, who is buried within the walled-in door to the left. Close to the portal to the right are some statues, representing a Virgin and Child, the Magi, and shields, rude, and apparently earlier than the 15th century, etc. The Northern fa$ade is very elegant and richly decorated, and belongs to the Revival. It is unfortunately blocked up by houses, and cannot be seen to advantage. Observe the transept rose- window. The E. end is of good but not particularly interesting Gothic. It is ribbed with flying buttresses and pin- nacles of excellent design, most of fili- gree open-work. Observe the exterior of the high chapel, with its polygonal shape, the pinnacled buttresses, the large elegant windows, open-worked clerestory. A good view of the exterior of the transept is obtained from the cloisters. On S. side of the edifice are the apses of the Chapels del Trasaltar, with decorated windows, busts of bishops, mascarons, etc. , of very early style. The exterior of sacristy is pla- teresque. Interior. It is divided into three naves, as far as the transept, whence five naves diverge, two of which occupy the length of the arcades parallel to the high altar, and form the Chapels of K S. del Dado and Nativity, sweeping gracefully round the presbytery ; the proportions are 303 ft. long, 128 ft. wide, and 125 ft. high. Observe the loftiness and bold- ness of the central nave and transept, Q the elliptical form of the trasaltar, the great simplicity prevailing, and mark the early style of the Gothic. The naves are divided by ogival svelte arches. The lateral naves rise to the height of the first stage of the principal (W.) fa- $ade, but are lower than the central one, while the lateral walls of the latter, with their thinness and open-work, are more like hangings placed to keep the air out and prevent it putting out the gilt and silver lamps that light up the altars. All the interior is marked by great unity of execution, and is of the second half of the 13th century. Eleven pillars on each side, formed each by groups of three shafts, support the ten vaults of the principal nave between the entrance and the presbytery ; the basements are circular ; the shafts and pillars are plain, and rise up boldly into the air to meet the springing of the arches, which bend with exquisite elegance. The capitals belong to the Byzantine transition style. Over the arches, which serve to connect the central with the lateral naves, runs all roundthe church an elegant triforium. Over this gallery the walls are pierced by large windows, 40 ft. high, with superb and unrivalled stained glass ; each is composed of six arches closed within the main external one, and decorated with three roses in the vacant spaces, and resting on octagon pillarets. The under tier, now bricked up, and indifferently painted with figures and scrolls, is sup- posed by some to have been the con- tinuation of the upper tier ; and if thus ; which reminds us somewhat of the Sainte Chapelle at Paris, the walls of this unique edifice must have been one blaze of gloriously painted glass. The walls of the lateral naves are not railed in to form chapels, as is generally the case in Spain ; the capitals of the piers have been absurdly coloured, not very long ago, with that yellowish ventrc-df- Uche dye which still disfigures so man? 226 LEON CATHEDRAL. of the churches in Belgium and the South of France. The rest of the in- terior will now, it is hoped, remain free from the whitewash and ochre which have hitherto defaced it. The naves are narrow, although their width is appa- rently absorbed by the great height ; the lateral ones, and the central even, as far as the former's own height, may be as- cribed to the architects of the latter part of the 13th century, the basement certainly belonging to the 13th. The galleries and upper portions of them, and the remainder of the interior, with the exception of the very early massive buttresses round the high chapel, are of somewhat later date, the galleries being the work of Badajoz, beginning of the 16th century. The choir, as usual, blocks up the central nave, thus diminishing the general effect. This interior, one of the most elegant in Eu- rope, stands unrivalled in Spain for beauty of constructive ornamentation, unity of design, and proportions. High Chapel and Altar. The walls round the presbytery are all open- worked. On each side of the altar, which is churrigueresque, are buried Saints Alvito and Froylan. Observe the exquisite urna and custodia, and the tabernacle, all silver, with statuette of San Froylan, classical pillars, and effi- gies of saints. The former retablo was removed in 1738, and substituted by the present marble transparency by Gavilan, the nephew of Tome, who was the in- ventor of those abominations. On the sides are marble tombs of bishops Alvito and Pelayo. The high chapel is con- nected with the choir by several fine rejas placed on the sides, across the transept. Choir. Dates the end of 15th cen- tury. The lower row of stalls is deco- rated with busts of saints. The upper row dates 1468-81, and is the earliest. They were ordered and put up by Bishop Veneris, who contributed so much tc the marriage of Ferdinand and Isabella. Observe the full-length statues of apo- stles and saints, canopied by porched arches with arabesque open-work and scenes from Scripture ; the best speci- mens are those near the entrance, at the sides of which observe the genealogy of Christ, the FaU of the Rebel Angels, Visitation and Descent to Limbo, Crea- tion of Woman, etc. They are by Ro- drigo Aleman. Trascoro. It is most elaborately sculptured in white alabaster and gold, with relievos representing the Adora- tion, Nativity, Annunciation, and Nati- vity of St. John ; the two former on left, and the latter on right. At the corner are statues of SS. Peter and Paul. This plateresque work is very beautiful, and deserves attention. Trasaltar. Here is the tomb of Or- dono II., ob. 923, the founder of the former cathedral. The mausoleum is curious, and dates 15th century. The king lies at full length in his robes, a globe in his hand, and a dog at his feet. On his side is a herald holding a shield, on which are painted a lion (Icon) and Moors slain. The other figures are a herald with a scroll, 'aspice,' etc., and a monk (thought by some to be the architect of the first cathedral) in black and white, pointing to a book, whose subject is ' the duties of man towards God, the king, and his neighbour. ' Two lions support the ogival arch. Below the niche are relievos Death of Christ painted and estofado, and of a style prior to rest of the mausoleum. Between this tomb and those more indifferent of SS. Alvito and Froylan, the walls are painted with frescoes, mostly barbar- ously retouched and defaced. One re- presents the Burial of Christ, and the other an Ecce Homo, crucified a second time in 1834 by a Leonese artist. The tombs close by of San Pelayo and San LEON CATHEDRAL. 227 Alvito are uninteresting aiid modern ; the former is Grseco -Roman. Observe near to it a Gothic arch richly decorated with foliage and fruit ; that of San Al- vito, whose body was placed here in 1565, is plateresque, and substituted for the former, which was a magnificent piece of silver workmanship which the French, who preferred in those cases the contenant to the contenu, carried religi- ously away. Transept. It is broad, and lighted by two rose-windows. The cimborio (cupola), placed at the intersection of transept and central nave, rests on four massive piers, and was raised in the 18th century. The Corinthian pillars and hexagon lantern, the medallions with busts decorating the media naran- ja, and the statues of the doctors of the Church, are out of keeping with the uniform style of the edifice. CHAPELS. De Santiago. This spa- cious, lofty, and most elegant chapel is of the Gothic style of middle of 15th century. It is the finest in the cathe- dral. Observe the lofty groined roof with florid tracery, the very bold and most elegant arches, the richly orna- mented cornices, springs of arches. The windows to E. with glorious stained glass, representing twelve virgins, twelve apostles, and twelve bishops. The greens, reds, and yellows are admirable. Connoisseurs will do well to notice all their details with care, as they are, per- haps, the finest in Spain. Observe also the basements which support the roof ; they are formed by grotesque composi- tions, mascarons, satyrs, angels, quaint scenes from Scripture Queen of She- bah, Samson and the lion, a man strug- gling with a serpent, a fat monk with a book, and the satirical inscription, ' Legere, non intelligere.' The entrance is formed by a fine plateresque arch with foliage, etc. The altar and organ are churrigueresque. N.B. On the sides of the altar have been temporarily placed the silver urns, admirably worked, con- taining bones of SS. Froylan and Alvito, which we have described as being at the sides of the high altar, as these are their appointed places. The body of the former was the object of the pious covetousness of different churches and cities, all of which claimed it on differ- ent pleas. The dispute was curiously settled in a manner that would have pleased Sancho Panza, whose sentences at Barataria it somewhat resembled. According to Florez, ' Espana Sagrada, ' vol. xxxiv. p. 194, the body was placed on a mule, which was allowed to carry it where it liked, and most probably the stable was not far from the church. Capilla de Nuestra Senora del Dado (Our Lady of the Die.) Founded by Bishop Manrique, and called otherwise until a miracle ascribed to the image oi the Virgin, gave it its present name. A gambler having invoked the Virgin's intercession, was, notwithstanding, most unlucky in his play, and not having the fortitude of another great gambler of antiquity, did not say, * Alea jacta est,' but, full of revenge, flung his dice (dado) at the Virgin, and hit the In- fant's face, which instantly bled pro- fusely. This, minus the miracle, is a common occurrence among the lower classes in Spain and Italy, who some- times stone and strike their patron saints whenever they do not comply with their wishes, and caress, thank, and make presents to them when the contrary happens. A Santa Rita de Casia No le tengo de rezar, Pues le pedi un imposible, Y no lo qui'so otorgar. The ! founder's tomb is indifferent; the inscription runs thus : Praesul Manricus jacet hie rationis amicus. Capilla del Privilegiada. Very fine painted glass, subject the Nativity, and 228 LEON CATHEDRAL. dating 1665. The walls are painted with frescoes on gilt backgrounds, very early, and with figures ; amongst them observe one on the right holding a model of this cathedral, probably meant as the portrait of the architect. Oapilla de San Pedro. Here is buried Bishop Arnaldo (ob. 1234), a friend of St. Ferdinand's, and a great persecutor of the Albigenses. Oapilla del Salvador. Opposite to tomb of Ordono II., a tomb of the great benefactress of Leon, Dona Sancha (llth century). Her generosity to the priests was unlimited, for which she was murdered by her nephew and heir, a crime for which he was torn to death by horses. The whole scene of this expiation is represented on the sculpture, and put up as a salutary lesson. Capilla del Nacimiento. Founded by Bishop Pedro Cabeza de Yaca, an illustrious name in Spain, 15th century. Observe here the tomb of Bishop Don Rodrigo (ob. 1532) for its style, which belongs to the Byzantine of Transition. The short pillars are strictly Byzantine. Notice the relievos, representing the funeral procession of the bishop, with the cross, incense-bearers, hired weepers, dressed in monastic habits, * as whole convents were wont to pour out their pious inhabitants to form processions at the funerals of the great. ' (Pennant, London.) This custom has been found in all countries. (See Captain Cook's * First Voyage,' book iii. chap. xii. ; Feydeaux's important work on ' Monu- ments Funebres, etc., des Anciens,' etc.) The custom prevails even now in portions of Asturias, Galicia, and Ireland we believe. Behind the con- fessional of the penitenciaria is another early tomb, with a similar procession of monks, kneeling and weeping. Clusters. They are Gothic, though with an admixture of the plateresque introduced in the 16th century. The roof is plateresque, and heavily orna- mented with angels' heads within wings, which look like starched shirt- collars. The walls, painted with early frescoes, represent scenes from the Scriptures, unfortunately much dam- aged and effaced. The cloisters, seen from the court or garden, offer a not ineffective combination of plateresque and Revival. The entrance portal is charming, and the carvings, formerly gilt, give an idea of what they must once have been. Observe the quaint cornice, outside of which the chief or- nament consists of death's heads and foliage. The antepecho parapeted gal- leries are with a balustrade, open-work, and pillarets. Each of the galleries are formed by six large ogival arches. The capitals of the pillars are a museum of mediaeval pictorial times, containing animated, graphic scenes of hunting, war, and festivals, satirical and his- torical. A great portion of these cloisters was the work of beginning of 14th century, and built for King Don Alfonso. The Frescoes are interesting, and with inscriptions in Gothic characters. The colouring, once vivid and warm, is scarcely discernible. The composition is not wanting in vigour and grace. Observe especially the Christ at the Column, Christ Disputing with the Doctors (which may be compared with Holman Hunt's similar subject), and the Last Supper, the best, perhaps. There are some very early tombs em- bedded in the walls that of a Canon with St. Michael sculptured is good. The best is the Altar del Conde de Rebolledo, and the sculpture around the retablo of the Veronica is very fine. Observe the Roman inscriptions, one of which, referring to the foundation of the city, runs thus : 'Legio VII. Gem. LEON CIIArEL OF ST. ANDRES. 229 Before the image, * La Virgen del Foro,' which is placed on left of the entrance, the peasantry of Leon, until very lately, used to celebrate the an- niversary of the battle of Clavijo (846), in which their forefathers had a share, as well as one of their noblemen, Marquis of Astorga, whose descend- ants on that account enjoy a canongia (canonry) an honour shared with the monarchs who are also Canons of Bar- celona, etc., and when in these cities sit, whether male or female, at the choir, and receive their fee for attend- ance. To celebrate this great festival (17th August), and honour the warrior- saint, Santiago, who slew the infidel by thousands, a grand bull-fight used to take place the day before, and of the fourth part of each bull, which was offered devoutly, the canons made chorizos, not knowing as yet the beef- steak that secret, said Bonapartist marshals, of the civilisation of Eng- land. Chapel of St. Andre's. Dates 1297. The staircase leading to the chapter is of exquisite Revival, and built for Bishop Don Pedro Manuel. Observe the entrance door with sculpture. The landings or exedras are decorated with statuettes of kings and bishops. It certainly is the finest and earliest specimen of the plateresque, after the Hospital of Santa Cruz of Toledo. The chapter-room is most indifferent, and to visit it is to lose time ; the door is prettily ornamented. The archive, containing but a portion of the once magnificent library of the cathedral, is little known, and many of the MSS. locked up here would throw light upon several obscure, intricate, and disputed facts of the early history of Leon, i. e. of Spain. Inquire after a MS. Gothic Bible, era 958 (920 of Christ) of the sixth year of the reign of Ordono II., written by Juan Did- cono, on whose intermediate leaves will be found a curious life of San Froylan. See also a Book of Prophecies, Epistles, and Gospels, with inscriptions relative to San Pelayo. An Antiphon written by Arias, 1069, and most im- portant to those who might entertain the lucky idea, never heretofore pro- perly carried out, of writing a history of the Roman Liturgy. Some very early MSS., full of quaint, inedited poetry, letters, treatises of Doctors of the Church, etc., forming part of a collection brought here from Andalusia by a learned monk, and five MSS. of 16th century, com- prising the history of Archbishop Don Rodrigo, etc. Sacristy. It is situated to the right of the high altar. The triple Gothic sedilia of the ante-sacristia are to be observed. The sacristia itself is Gothic, and of the same period as Chapel of Santiago. The pictures are indifferent copies of Italian masters. A San Geronimo is the best. There is little to see here now, as the former beautiful gems disappeared during the French invasion. Here was the wonderful ruby, for the possession of which En- rique III. (1395), an amateur Duke of Brunswick of the time, who could count the jardines of an emerald like the best jeweller (joyero), gave a rent of 3070 maravedis (2). The custodia was considered by most of those who saw it as one of the grandest works of chiselled silver in the world. It was made in 1506, in the Gothic style, by the Spanish Cellini Enrique de Arfe, whose nephew Juan was born at Leon, and left a curious work entitled ' Varia Commensuracion,' letc. The present reliquaries and plate are of no great value. Stained Glass. The greatest portion was put up by Bishop Yillalon. It is 230 LEON SAN ISIDOKO. among the finest in Europe for vivid- ness and intensity of colour, variety of tints, strength and boldness of outline, simplicity and breadth of composition, and unity of effect. The foliaged orna- mentation, the borders and patterns, evince a happy attempt at transferring to glass the varied designs of the Neo- Greek ornamentation, as displayed in the contemporary sculpture, and devices from illuminated missals. They are among the earliest in Spain ; later, nevertheless, than those of Avila, and between middle of 15th century and 17th. They represent scenes from Scripture and the lives of the saints, in the body of the church. The largest and earliest are those of the central nave ; but perhaps the finest if they are restored are those of the Santiago Chapel, ascribed to Flemish artists. N.B. The foregoing is a description of this fine cathedral as it was, and as it promises to be once more. How faithfully the old detail e.g. the stained glass, at present for the most part stored away will be reproduced, remains to be seen when the work of restoration is completed. San Isidore, called El Real, from its having been founded by kings, rises on the site of a nunnery, which was consecrated 966, to St. John the Baptist, and built by Sancho I. Alfonso I. enlarged it, and destined it for a royal burial-house, * la ultima morada,' as the Spaniards say. In 1063, as Ferdinand I. had applied to Ben Abed, the Khalif of Seville for the bodies of the martyred virgins Stas. Justa and Rufina, San Isidore appeared in a vision to the Bishop Alvito, who headed the embassy, and said, ' I am the Doctor de la Espanas, and mine is the body to be removed.' Then having thus * spoken his mind' to his colleague, San Alvito hurried to unbury the sa- cred body of the susceptible and un- gallant doctor, and removed it to Leon. The king and his sons hastened to Toro to receive it, and carried it on their shoulders to Leon ; the body working such miracles on the road curing the lame and blind, casting out devils, etc. that the khalifs daughter, the fair Zaida, was easily converted, and mar- ried Alfonso Y I., one of the miraculous procession ! Queen Sancha, whose de- votion for this saint was so great that she used to call herself his wife, etc. (for more details see Risco, vol. i. p. 139; Florez, 'Esp. Sagr.,' vol. ix. pp. 234-406), gave up her palace, for- tune, and jewels to the new building, which she and Fernando erected in honour of the saint, and to contain his body ; the former edifice was therefore pulled down, and the present one erected, and the first stone laid Decem- ber 21, 1063. Who the architect was is ignored, and Mr. Ford, following Risco, Morales, and others, has erro- neously asserted it was Pedro de Deo Tamben, or Vitambene. He was em- ployed to continue the works, as his epitaph has it, ' superaedificavit ; ' and his tomb was not put up by Alfonso VI., as Morales states, but later and by Alfonso VII. and his sister Dona Sancha, by whom the church was com- pleted and consecrated March 6, 1149. Style. This edifice is an interesting monument of the Romano-Byzantine in its first period, and will interest the student of architecture. It is natural to expect that it has not retained through- out the features of its former style, and therefore portions, such as the high chapel (1513), part of the pantheon, parts of cloisters, staircases, and altars, exhibit different and more moder^ styles. Exterior. There are two en- trances. South Entrance, on the N. LEON SAN ISIDORO. 231 side of its plaza. The once admirable Puerta del Perdon was unfortunately blocked up when the front was forti- fied during the French invasion ; the three windows were then also walled in, except the central one. Observe over the walled-in portal the three strictly Byzantine circular decrescent arches. Over the entrance is an eques- trian statue of San Isidore, sword in hand, and riding a white charger, just as he was seen at the battle of Baeza, out-Santiagoising el mismisimo Senor Santiago. The actual portal is com- posed of a triple circular arch with pillars at the sides. The tympanum is decorated with bassi-relievi coetaneous with the rest, and representing Abra- ham's Sacrifice. The other relievi are Descent and Burial, etc., and statues of SS. Peter and Paul, which are placed at the sides. The Revival cornice is modern, as well as the attic with plateresque pilasters, and the colossal shield of Charles V., in whose reign these works were executed. Ob- serve the square tower, with Romano- Byzantine arches, and the exterior of the round chapel. Remark the rudely imitated Corinthian pillars, and the strange capitals with scroll-work and animals. Interior. Although the architects of the llth century employed the piers and cylindric pillars, of which there are examples at Ripoll, San Millan of Segovia, and Cathedral of Jaca, they more generally embedded a column half its diameter in each front of the square piers. The interior is divided into three naves, low, sombre, narrow, the waggon-vaulted roof resting on groups of four half-columns, and pro- jecting from square pier-shafts. Some of the basements are in shape of a cross. The capitals are composed of groups of children, animals, and foliage, very delicately sculptured for the period, and probably later than the llth cen- tury. The transept is lower than the central nave, and the clerestory is very high. The windows are all Byzantine, and here observe, as well as in the cornice, the characteristic pattern called ajedrezado, from its resemblance with a chess-board (ajedrez), more rarely met than the jaquelado in the begin- ning of the llth century, and exem- plified in archivolts and horizontal fringes or cornices. Remark in the branches of the transept the arches which are composed of segments of circles, festooned with lobes in their inner part. Between the images of the Virgin and Archangel Gabriel, and to the right of a large effigy of a bishop, is the consecration slab of this church, by the Emperor Alfonso and his mo- ther Sancha, March 6, 1149. To the right of the church, looking towards the high altar, and in a sombre corner, lies the modest and holy architect, who continued and finished the edifice. He was, says the epitaph, ' Yir mire absti- nentise et multis florebat miraculis.' Near to it is a very early font, with strange Byzantine relievi. The pre- sent square high chapel was built in 1513 by Juan de Leon, which replaced the former Byzantine presbytery formed of three rounded apses, of which a lateral one still remains, of small di- mensions. The former windows were also substituted by florid Gothic ones, and the walls strengthened by but- tresses. Lightning fell and destroyed the retablos in 1811, which was no loss ; but the stalls and splendid stained glass were destroyed, and at the same time, the French, that other thunder- bolt, sacked the church and carried away a silver railing, all the plate of San Isidore's tomb, the camarin, and reliquaries and crosses of very early date (some of 1095). The patron saint lies in a silver coffin, on the altar. The 232 LEON SAN ISIDORO. former one was all gold, and the prey of Alonso of Aragon, who was a church pillager, just like Pedro el Cruel and so many Spanish kings. This tomb was once a great object of pilgrimages, and upon it suitors were adjured to tell the truth, death and blindness pursuing the perjurers. This early custom, authorised by the law, and followed at Barcelona, was sup- pressed by the Catholic kings in 1498. The altar is one of the few in Spain that have the privilege of having the Host always de manifiesto, or visible. The scene is very impressive in the evening, when the church is all dark- ness and filled with invisible beings, mostly women clad in black, and striking their breasts, with the usual yawning closed by the sign of the cross (to prevent devils diving in), and the ' Ay, Madre mia ! ' between yearning after rest and opening the heart to the Virgin ; when, too, the altar alone is illuminated, rendering ghostly-visible the figures of angels kneeling at its side. The chapels are indifferent. That on the left of high chapel is called de San Martino, and dates 1191. It was founded by this saint, who was an idiot and a pilgrim, to whom San Isidore appeared in a dream, and gave him one of his books to eat ! The idiot awoke a man of let- ters, and preached in Latin. His body is on the altar, in a silver-gilt pla- teresque reliquary. The several relics consist of an agatha chalice, a present of Dona Urraca, whose husband, Alonso el Batallador, carried away the patena. A cross with relievi, and a small ban- ner, guion, on which Alfonso VII. had the image of San Isidore embroidered, and represented as he had appeared, to him at Baeza. Pantheon. It was built in the llth century, and contains the bodies of eight generations of monarchs. It is placed in the cloisters, and is a small chapel dedicated to Sta. Catalina, whose tawdry image is on the altar. It is sombre and low, and, like the church, has been fatally bedaubed. El Tudense ascribes it to Alfonso V., but it was more likely Fernando I. The square form has been modified, and was probably oblong and larger. The windows were walled in, only two now lighting the dismal home of the early Kings of Leon and Castile. The sol- diers of Soult desecrated it, opened the tombs, confused the inscriptions, and cast the ashes to the wind. Of the thirty former tombs, there are only twelve now, all ill authenticated, save that of Alfonso V. and Dona Sancha. Here are buried eleven kings and twelve queens, with a mob of little infantes and infantas. A regular printed catalogue is sold, and every tomb vouched for. The chapel itself will interest archaeologists, as it is a perfect example of the Byzantine of the llth century. The morrice low pillars, with bastard Corinthian capi- tals, deserve notice ; the inscriptions are curious and laconic. The roof is the greatest curiosity, and remains as it was when built and ornamented in the llth century. The arches are orna- mented with stars and the herring- bone patterns. Notice very especially the pointed vaults, which date from the llth century. They are among the earliest paintings in Spain, and represent different subjects. The draw- ing is incorrect, the dark purple colour- ing predominating, but the composition is not ineffective. They are chiefly subjects from Scripture, comprising the Old Testament, which, we may remark, has never been so often re- sorted to by Spanish painters and sculptors as the New. Observe espe- cially Adam and Eve, a Guardian Angel, Massacre of Innocents, Our LEON SAN MARCOS. 233 Saviour and the Four Evangelists. Under an arch observe also the signs of the zodiac and personification of months. January and February are defaced ; March is represented by a wood-cutter at his work ; April, by the planting of young trees ; May, the sea- son for journeys to Veranear, by a traveller on a mule ; June and July, by a reaper and the harvest ; August, September, and October represent scenes from the vintage ; November, by a woman killing a pig ; and De- cember, by a man drinking before a Christmas fire. The months are in- scribed, as also several animals and scenes. Cloisters. They have been mostly modernised, the Ionic being substituted for the Gothic ; vestiges of the latter may yet be seen on the side nearest to the church. Inquire for the ' Cuarto de Dofia Sancha,' which forms a portion of her palace, and the walls of which were painted in her time (llth century), and deserve close examination. The subject is the foundation of San Isidore. They are un- fortunately much injured. The colouring is excellent, the composition good, and they are in the style of the early Florentines. Turning to the right, and descending a few steps, we enter the Library, gutted by the French, who burnt most of the valuable books and the precious MSS. of the 9th and 10th centuries it contained. (See Morales and Risco.) We have seen a Bible of A.D. 960, written by Sancho, with splendid illuminations, curious for the dresses, attitudes, etc. ; a breviary of the 14th century, and works of San Isi- dore, etc. Here, in 1887, Dr. Rudolf Beer discovered the earliest palimpsest of the Lex Romano, Visigothorum, written over with a MS. of the 10th cen- tury. It has been published by the Academy of History. In the Sacristy are a small curious diptych, the Coronation of the Virgin, and a fine early email, and relics among them, and the Virgin's auburn hair. etc. The cloisters arc spacious, full of light and sunshine, with fine views of Leon, the river, and San Marcos. See in a 12th century chapel, opening out of the E. of the cloisters, some interesting frescoes newly dis- covered. There are some inscriptions in the cloisters, two very early between the two arches opening to the galleries of the audito ; one, relating to the former and earliest edifice, begins : * Hanc quam cernis aulam Sci. Johannis Bap- tiste olim f uit lutea, ' etc. San Marcos. As the cathedral is a gem of the Gothic of the 13th century, and San Isidoro a fine and, in parts, well-preserved monument of the Byzan- tine of the llth century, San Marcos is a wonderful example of the plateresque of the 16th century, and the triumph of Juan de Badajoz. It is situated in the arrabal (an Arab name for suburb) of Renueva, with a fa9ade looking on the Vernesga, whose windings it commands, along with the verdant plains. History. It rises on the site of the Palatial Convent of the Order of Santi- ago, the most illustrious in Spain, and still extant. It was at first (1170) but a humble asylum and hostelry for the use of the pilgrims who flocked to Compostella, and was given to the Order of St. James in the year 1173. The first 'maestre general* of the Order, Encalada, died 1184, and brave as his homonym, and more wise, de- served the epitaph an exception to the French saying, * Mentir comme une e"pitaphe,' 'Mens pia, larga ma- nus, os prudens ;' but both epitaph and tomb have disappeared, though not the sense, which is still practised by the present Jesuits, who, with their usual refinement, tact, and educational talents, will soon, it is hoped, un- Gothicise the good Leonese. The re- putation of this conventual stronghold of the Santiaguestes spread far and 234 LEON SAN MARCOS. wide, and here professed many brave knights, and amongst them the hero of the l Paso honroso, ' Don Suero de Qui- riones. (For details of this pas d'armes see p. 123, route from Leon to Coruna.) Towards the end of the 15th century the edifice became ruinous, and Fer- dinand the Catholic ordered that it should be pulled down and a new one erected, 1514. He contributed 300,000 maravedis (195) a year to the works, which he confided to Pedro Larrea, architect of the Convent of Alcantara ; but they were not begun until the reign of Charles V., about 1537. The general design was most probably drawn up by Larrea, but either modi- fied or abandoned, and new ones made by Juan de Badajoz, who, there is no doubt, traced and executed the fa9ades, sacristy, etc. Owing to the change of residence of the Order, and other circumstances, the works were interrupted from 1566 till 1602, when the Order was re- established here. The staircase was the first work (1615), the cloisters and chapels follow- ed (1679), and the principal facade was completed (1715). Style, proportions, etc. San Marcos is a most beautiful and perfect example of the silversmith's work (plateresque) applied to the Eevival architecture, and, we should say, the masterpiece of Juan de Badajoz. The extensive build- ing forms an oblong, and is composed of the church to the E., and the monas- tery filling the rest of the space. Church. This church, not long since used as a storehouse, is very carefully and intelligently repaired by the Jesuits. Observe the very handsome entrance, with its fine arch of medio punto, with a porch and unfinished turrets, with two large plateresque niches ; that on right containing a relievo representing the Crucifixion, that on left the De- scent, both by Orozco. They are finely executed, but considerably damaged ; that of Descent is the best. The other niches are vacant. Kemark the shell ornament, the fine frieze and balustrade which crown the porch, within which is a rose and shells. The triangular front is not completed. Between two heralds is shield of Charles V. The in- terior is plain and noble, composed of one nave, with fine arcades in the tran- sept. The roof is groined, and the pillars plain. The windows are com- posed of double circular arches ; those in the high chapel and transept are painted. In the chapels they are of medio punto, except those below the choir, which are ogival. The high chapel is indifferent, as are also the pul- pits and rejas. On left of transept is the door leading to the cloister. It is very richly decorated with relievos on the arch, columns, frieze, and plater- esque window. The choir is elevated at one end. The stalls are, or rather were, beautifully carved by Doucel (1542), but being repaired in 1721-23, and some that were wanting being com- pleted, they seem churrigueresque rather than plateresque, which is not ascer- tained till closely examined. Observe the full-length figures from the New Testament in the upper row, and the busts from Old Testament in the lower, and the berruguete carvings on the arms of stalls, balustrades, etc., representing athletes, centaurs, etc. The sacristy is fine, with a lofty groined roof, and three elegant windows, divided by a central pillaret. Observe the excellent plater- esque niche -work, medallions, and busts. The retablo represents the Father with Cherubs, and is surmount- ed by a * Vision of Santiago. ' The room close to it is plain, but in keeping. Cloister. Formed of two orders of medio punto, spacious arches. There are some good artesonado ceilings, espe- cially in the portion allotted to the LEON MINOR CHURCHES. 235 prior. Visit the cell where Quevedo, who was a knight of Santiago, was con- fined for having written a satirical * memorial ' against the Conde Duque, and which, at the king's table, was found under Philip IV.'s napkin, and immediately ascribed to the discontent- ed poet. In a letter to his friend, Adam de la Parra, Quevedo complains of the damp and darkness of his dungeon, * which, ' he says, * looks more like a den fit only for thieves, than a prison to confine an honest man in ; and to this I have been driven by a man who is now my enemy only because I would not be his favourite (privado). ' And here he remained from December 1639 to June 1643. Convent. The interior is not inte- resting, and is scarcely worth the trouble of applying to the padres for permission to visit it, however readily they grant it. The great feature of this part of the edifice, and, indeed, of the whole, is the facade, grand and gloriously sculptured. The line is continuous, simple, and correct. It is composed of two storeys : the upper one is decorated with medio punto windows and elegant plateresque pilasters ; the second, or lower, by oblong balconies, with balustraded columns, separated by statueless niches. The friezes and festooning are copies from Raphael's Loggie. Over the upper frieze runs an elegant cornice, and an open-work antepecho, with candela- brum-work at intervals. Observe the medallions under the lower frieze, with projecting busts, both historical and mythological, from sacred Scripture and from fancy ; and curiously enough, though perhaps not as much as may seem at first, from the higher general idea that inspired the sculptor, we see Hercules close to the Cid, Charlemagne with that other Charles the Great, call- ed Carlos Quinto, Jiilius Csesar in good- ly company with Alexander and Philip II., and Judith with Isabella la Cat<5* lica and Lucrecia not far off. The busts to the right of portal are all por- traits of the masters of Santiago. These alto-relievo busts, disfigured now and mutilated by the unsparing hand of foe and countryman, are severe and antique in style, and worthy of Berruguete or Becerra. They are mostly the work of Orozco and Guillermo Doucel, though some, easily distinguishable by the great and marked inferiority of execution, are much later. The entrance is not so fine, and the churrigueresque has been busy here, as may be gathered from the bastard statues of Fame blowing a trumpet, an incongruous specimen of the swooir-point-faire of Martin de Suin- aya, 1715-19. Remark, however, and not by him or of his time, the eques- trian statue of the warrior-saint Sant- iago, whose greatest miracle has been to found churches, win battles, and raise loans in Spain, a country which he never visited. Minor Churches. San Clodio, op- posite to the vast but unmeaning Casa de Espositos (not des petits Maris, as a French author hurriedly translated it, but of foundlings), is now but a ruin ; it was very interesting, but was sold latterly for 4000r. (42), and demolish- ed. It was rebuilt 1530. The cloisters were most beautiful. The Convent of Santo Domingo was considerably in- jured, and almost destroyed, by the French in 1810, and has some good sepulchres of the Guzmanes. Of the twelve other churches, most of them are very indifferent : Chapel de Sta. Nona, outside the town ; Church of El Salvador del Nido, a nest for un- fledged souls. All good Italians will visit it, as it was near its high altar that the ill-fated Charles Albert, on April 8, 1849, after the battle of Novara, publicly partook of the communion. Church of San Marcelo. Built in the 236 LEON GATES AND WALLS. 9th century by King R amiro I. , rebuilt in 1096, and modernised. The portal embedded in the wall is of the 13th century, with a relievo representing the Virgin Mary seated, receiving the homage of kneeling angels. This small chapel was subsequently rebuilt and dedicated to San Marcelo, a warrior and a saint. It is, however, not very interesting. The parish church of Santa Maria del Mercado contains three fine spacious naves, with win- dows flanked by Byzantine pillars; observe the circular arches and curious capitals ; the high altar and retablo are absurd. Public Edifices. The Bishop's Pa- lace and Seminary in Plaza de la Cate- dral are not worth visiting. Plaza Mayor. This large square is surrounded by portales, formed by medio punto arches. The Town Hall, or Consistorio, as it is often called in Castile and As- turias, is to "W. of the plaza, and dates 1677. It is indifferent, though large, with a slate roof, towers, and Corinthian pillars in the portal. The principal fa9ade of the edifice is to the right ; it is classical, and the work of Juan de Rivero (1585), who built it for 4000 ducats (880). On the cornice of its Hall of Sessions we read some old heraldic quintillas, which end in this epitome of the history of Leon : Tuvo veinte y cuatro reyes, Antes que Castilla leyes. Hizo el fuero sin querellas, Libertd las cien doncellas Le las infernales greyes. Casa de los Guzmanes. Situated in the corner of Calle del Cristo de la Vic- toria, on the site of a former edifice which was the birthplace of Don Guzman el Bueno, who was born at Leon, January 24, 1256, and from whom the ex-Empress of the French de- scends. The actual palace was built, 1560, by one of this great and wealthy family, D. Juan Quinones y Guzman, Bishop of Calahorra. On Philip II. 'a visit to Leon, as his courtiers, some friends of the bishop, were praising the building, and were mentioning in a friendly way the thousands of cwts. of iron employed in it, the king severely observed, punning by the way, 'En verdad que ha sido mucho yerro (iron, and also a mistake, in Talleyrand's sense : * c'est plus qu'un crime, c'est une faute') para un obispo.' The style is plain, however, and severe. Over the portal is the inscription put up by the bishop, and running : * Ornanda est dignitas domo ; domo dignitas non tota quserenda. ' Observe the Ionic pil- lars supporting warriors, the numberless iron railings and balconies, and the patio and winding stone staircase, etc. It is now neglected, and close to this palacio is that of the Marquis of Villasin- ta, flanked by towers and with handsome balconies. Observe also that of the Gutierrez. On the frieze of the central balcony, the inscription of the 16th century (of which the house dates), * Solum viro forti patria est. ' The Casa de los Lunas is not finished ; it has a Gothic portal of the 13th century, an elegant patio, and an arch with exquisite arabesque. It now belongs to the Duke of Frias. Gates and Walls. Of the Roman period vestiges still remain, notwith- standing the many sieges and partial destruction by Almanssour. There are portion of walls to the W., E., and N. ; that to the S. has been much built against ; but though the walls have been often repaired, and the upper por- tion modernised, yet the basement is Roman. There were, as usual in mediaeval cities, four principal gates placed at the cardinal points. Close to the Casa de los Guzmanes was the W. gate, ' Cauriense, whence Cures ; and LEON EXCURSIONS IN THE VIERZO. 237 the circular arch of the S. gate may still be seen, or rather guessed, in the Plazuela del Conde de Luna, embedded iu a wall, against which some hovels are heaped together. The E. gate was be- hind the present cathedral, and the N. was modernised 1759, and a statue of Pelayo placed upon it. Close to it is the Portigo, where there was a castle. Of the gates erected about 1324, most have been subsequently disfigured ; see, however, Puerta de Santo Domingo ; Puerta Moneda, decorated in 1759 with a statue of Charles III. ; de San Fran- cisco Gallega ; those of El Sol, El Peso, etc. The streets are indifferently paved ; the best shops in Plaza Mayor. The Mercado may be visited for dress and customs of the Charros and other types. There is an indifferent theatre, contain- ing twelve spectacles, and a public library of 4000 unclassified volumes and MSS. in the suppressed convent of Santa Catalina. The paseos are all out- side the town, except the lounge in the Plaza Mayor, towards evening. The most fashionable are La Honda or Papa- laguinda, on the left of the Yernesga, and Paseo de San Francisco. Excursions in the Vierzo and Ma- ragateria. Those who have leisure, and whom wild districts and Alpine scenery delight, and who can, besides, conjugate the verb to rough it in all tenses and senses, may undertake these two ex- cursions, which will lead them through terra incognita to most tourists, and amid pastoral life in all its reality and some of its poetical characteristics ; and first to the Vierzo. The tourist will proceed first to Astorga (see Coruna, route from Leon), 10^ leagues (36 miles), thence to the small town of Villafranca del Vierzo, 12^ leagues farther, which may be made a convenient head-quar- ters. Villafranca, though once the rival of Ponferrada, is now rather a poor place of 5000 inhabitants, but witb good caza mayor and menor, and excel- lent fishing in its neighbourhood. It is situated on the Burbia and Valcorce, and is of considerable antiquity. The only object of interest to be seen now, however, is the Church of Santiago (Byzantine), which stands on the right of the castle. The Colegiata may also be visited three naves, a high cupola over transept, and Grseco-Roman portals and the Church of San Francisco Byzantine, but modernised. The Vierzo. This district, 60 miles long by 50 broad, lies between Villa- franoa, Astorga, Ponferrada, Puebla de Sanabria, and Puente de Domingo. It is bounded on the N. side by two branches of the Asturian range ; to the W. by the Puerto de Cebrero (where excellent Stilton-like cheese is made) and Aguiar (Aquilar) which separate it from Galicia ; to the E., and on the side of Asturias, by the Puertos de Foncebadon and the celebrated Monte Trago, which towards the S. are linked to the Sierras de Cabrera and Sanabria, the Roman Montes Aquilinse. It forms thus a cuenca, a shell, the sides of which are irregular, and the centre is the re- ceptacle of the countless rivers and streams which descend from the slopes of the surrounding hills, the alembics of crystal torrents. This concavity or crater, once probably a lake, has an outlet to the S.W., where the waters meet and burst a passage out into Ga- licia, taking the generic denomination of the river Sil, and whose waters are considerably increased by the Baeza and its tributaries. These waters, whether oozing, filtering, or rushing torrent- like, according to the period of the year, flow over beds of slate, through dips and ravines, amid vales carpeted with soft moss, watering Swiss-like ver- dant meadows, and washing as the,) pass the base of the thyme-clad hills. 238 LEON THE VIERZO. Thus the tourist will see steep and im- posing sierras rich in ore (the waters often carry down into the valleys par- ticles of virgin gold), a country varied in aspect and products, where the vege- tation of the northern climes is in con- stant contrast with that of the South ; the vine grows near the chestnut, the olive by a noble oak, and the larger rivers are seen winding in broad, quiet sheets of water through an expanse of green meadow-land, where flocks of sheep and round-shouldered cattle pas- ture plentifully. The Vierzo is a name derived from the Roman Bergidum, a city, the site of which is generally placed about 50 m. from Astorga, and on the road from it to Braga, on a hill called Castro de la Ventora, and of which now but a few vestiges of walls remain. Ptolemy called this river-girt town Interamnium Flavium, though this is no data, as Flavius was often applied to Asturian cities. Historically, the Vier- zo formed part of Galicia until the death of Ferdinand I., when it was merged into the reino of Leon. In the beginning of the 7th century, San Fructuoso, the son of the pastoral Sheik or Conde del Vierzo, chose this secluded district to people it with monks. He therefore founded the first convent, the Monasterio de Com- pludo, at the base of Monte Fonceba- don, near to the source of the Molina (606 A.D.) His sanctity and miracles attracted hundreds of disciples. The Vierzo was soon studded with hermit- ages and convents ; the Benedictines first, and then the Cistercians colonised the wildest portions. It became the refuge of several world-worn kings, who sought repose and the face of nature, more friendly and truthful than that of man. Thus Veremundo lived in the Convent of Carracedo, on the banks of the Cua, Ordono II. rebuilt that of SS. Pedro and Santiago, etc. The Moors, however, ravaged this peopled solitude, and destroyed many monasteries. But in the 9th century it recovered all its former popularity and veneration among the pious of the land. Many of the monasteries are still extant, others have crumbled down through age and neglect. The principal convents and churches to visit are Santiago de Penalva (about 12 m. from Villafranca). This convent was erected by San Genadio, and conse- crated October 24, 919, according to the inscription on the left of the portal leading to the cloisters, and rebuilt and repaired 937, by Fortis and Bishop Salomon. There is a grand pilgrimage to this shrine, where the relics of the founder are kept, on the 25th of May, which is attended by all the peasants of the Vierzo. A novel spectacle then takes place, which artists should not omit. Near it flows the Rio de Silencio, and near it also are placed the Cuevas de Silencio, five caves in which the monks used to pass the Lent retreat. The church is composed of one single nave, some 68 ft. long by 19 ft. broad. It forms a square terminated by two circular portions, which contain the high chapel and the especial chapel and tomb of San Genadio. The main arches of both, and that which divides the body of the church into two compart- ments, rest upon large marble pillars. Round the church outside runs a closed- in gallery, or cloister cemetery, very early, yet built after the church itself. The tombs, now dilapidated, are curi- ous and most ancient, but none bear inscriptions save that of the French abbot Etienne, 'Famulus Dei Franco,' whose lengthened epitaph is plain and fine, and calls him ' Discretus, sapiens, sobrius, ac patiens, ' a good definition of Benedictines, to whom this convent has belonged. LEON THE VIERZO. 239 San Pedro de Monies (about 5 m. further west). It was built by San Fructuoso, and repaired, 895, by San Genadio and Ordono II. of Galicia. The chapel was the work of Archbishop Vivianus, who died in odour of sanctity, as well as the abbot of this Benedictine convent, both of whom are buried here. The exterior is modern ; the interior, three Byzantine naves, each closed in by a circular apse. Over these two rise the Montes Aguilianos. On the highest of the hills, La Aguiana, stands a small chapel de N. Senora. The view from it spreads over all the Vierzo. Behind soar into the skies the blue peaks and gorges of Cabrera ; on the E. the eye sweeps over the plains to Astorga, and to the W. the vegas of Galicia appear ; the Oza issues from this hill, and, boiling noisily under San Pedro, flows into the valley of Valdueza. Oarracedo. This was the palace of Veremundo, who converted it into a convent, dedicated to the Saviour (990), and then fixed his residence at the Palace of Villabuena, on the opposite bank of the Cua, and 1J league higher than Carracedo, where he died nine years after. (He is better known as Bermudo II.) It was repaired, 1138, by the Emperor Alfonso, and became a wealthy Cistercian monastery. There are some very curious Byzantine re- mains here, belonging mostly to the 12th century, though there are some of the 10th ; the church was modern- ised in 1796. Observe the old fa9ade and portal, the lintel of which sup- ports two bulls' heads. The ruinous lateral facade possesses still greater ori- ginality sculptures of the Saviour, and two stiff, rude effigies of a king and a priest support the cornice. Over their heads are elaborate capitals, and their feet rest on two other ones, formed of monsters and fantastical de- vices. The portal, of which there are few vestiges, was formed by three de- crescent arches resting on columns ; two of the latter stood before the effi- gies of the Emperor Alfonso and the Abbot Florencio, who began the church in 1138. These effigies were held in great veneration, and a sceptical shep- herd, who dared to cast some oil on the hair and beard of the emperor, to see if they would grow, was instantly struck blind, and did not recover his sight until he went on his knees before the statue, and devoutly begged its pardon. There are but few vestiges of this early church. Observe the horse- shoe adopted here in several portions. The chapter-house is of Alfonso's time ; the fine halls over the chapter-room are the only remains of Bermudo's Palace, the longest of which is called the * King's Kitchen. ' The general style is more of 12th than 10th century. Observe the twelve Byzantino-Tedesque arches decorating the walls of the first room ; the Byzantine pillars and ogival archway leading up to the principal room, and ornamented with angels playing on instruments, the relievo re- presenting the death of Bermudo, and his wife holding his son Alfonso. In the next room, observe the octagonal dome and artesonado ceiling, and the fine Byzantine pillars and arches ; a large fire-place in a corner, the agimeces and wheel window. The audience-hall, a gallery close to it, is very fine, and formed by three arches, of which the central is pointed, and the two others circular, all resting on columns. Following the Cua up to its conflu- ence with the Sil, after crossing the latter, and ascending the hills, 2 leagues beyond, is the Lake of Corucedo, not a corruption of Carrucedo, as many might believe, and distinctly stated as differ- ent in a writing of Bermudo II., 990. This would delight the lakists. The 240 LEON MARAGATOS. village of El Lago, with its white- washed houses and slate roofs, stands in amphitheatre around the lake, the canaverales of which teem with wild- fowl. The lake is generally still as a pond ; in the day, it is like to a corner of the blue firmament dropped upon earth, and framed by woodland and meadows, and at night it is not less fair, shining with a myriad golden twinkling eyes, the stars of heaven ; but when the S. or E. winds come to blow, the quiet lake becomes a minia- ture sea. Its crecidas (or swell) extend then upwards of 1^ league, and burst their way into the Sil ; the decrease, mengua, never being more than 1^ league. Some geologists are of opinion that all this Cuenca was formerly a vast lake, that the overflowing arose from great internal convulsions in the neigh- bouring mines of 'Las Meduas,' and that the present lake is fed by nitrations through subterraneous channels. Signs of the supposed cataclysm are evident at 1 league off, S. of lake, where there are vestiges of Roman excavations ; and huge gaps may be seen in the rent-up sides of the mountain (the Medulas, Mons Medulis, or Metalas). Monastery of Espinareda. Of the 1 Oth century ; repaired and modernised 1768-1780. Two curious sepulchral slabs, one of the Abbot Gutierre, who established the Benedictine Order here in 1071 ; and some Leonine distichs, being the epitaph of the fair Jimena, who won the stout heart of Alfonso, the conqueror of Toledo, and filled the vacant place left by his legitimate wife. The inscription runs thus: 'Alfonsi vidui regis arnica fui. Copia, forma, genus, Dos, morum cultus amenus. Me regnatoris prostituere thoris,' etc. She was the grandmother of the first king of Portugal, and died 1128, which date corresponds to the era 1166. An easy excursion may be made through the Vierzo, by starting from Ponferrada, a small town but con- venient station, 16 miles E. of Villa- franca, on the Sil, where it is joined by the Baeza Route. Leagues. Ponferrada. Borrenes .... Puente Domingo Flores Barco de Valdeorras Laroco ...... Puebla de Trivas . Burgo ..... Villarino Frio .... 2 Nino Daguia .... 2 Orfense ..... 3 (62 miles) 2oJ Another Excursion. Leagues. Ponferrada to Espinosa on the Missuelos 2 Compludo ...... 2 Santiago de Penalva .... 4 San Pedro de Montes . . . . i Ferradillo ...... i Santa Lucia . ..... 2^ Rimdr ....... Back to Ponferrada } Ponferrada to Carracedo, 2 leagues. The best streams for fishing in the district are the Tera, Eria, Tuerto, Orbigo, Cobrera, Cua, and especially the Erla and Sil. Maragateria. This district, with the less interesting one of * Las Batuecas ' (see Salamanca), are the least known untrodden nooks of Spain. The Mara- gatos, whose name has been diversely derived from Mauri Capti, etc. , form a curious and interesting tribe, living exclusively apart from the rest of thtj populations which surround them, and preserving to this day their quaint, picturesque Oriental dress and customs. Their honesty and activity are pro- verbial, and almost all are carriers (arrieros), going on foot, by the side of their gaily-caparisoned mules, as far as Madrid, to sell dry fish, eggs, etc. LEON MARAGATOS. 241 Their marriage - ceremonies, funerals, and public dances are all very peculiar. They assemble twice a year at Astorga, the capital of the district, at the feasts of Corpus and the Ascension. The district is about 4 leagues square, and contains thirty -six villages, of which San Roman is the best and most interesting. But fine churches, art, or traditions must not be sought here. The women remain at home, or work in the fields, and are not handsome. Other Excursions may be made to the Byzantine Monastery of Sta. Maria de Gradefes, 5 leagues, following the trout- teeming Ezla, founded 1177 for Cister- cian nuns ; mixture of Romanesque and florid Gothic, early tomb curious for dress of recumbent effigies. Half a league farther is the Priorato de San Miguel de la Escalada, built of mud and bricks a curious specimen of the first Byzantine period. The Moorish portions were added by monks come from Cordova ; the original portion dates 913. One league W. of Escalada is San Pedro de Eslonza, earlier even than the 10th century, but often altered since ; the fine cloisters were begun in the 16th century by Juan de Badajoz, and finished by his pupil, Juan de Rivero. The cruciform plateresque church is by Badajoz, begun 1547 and finished 1719, when the portal and other portions were churriguerised. Church of Sandoval, on the con- fluence of the Porma and Ezla, dates 1142; founded by Alfonso VII., or more probably by his French mayor- domo, Count Ponce de Minerve, on a low marshy ground called Soto or Santo Noval, and handed over to the Cister- cian monks. Observe the capitals, pila, the retablo mayor with relievos of his- tory of St. Bernard (16th century), the sacristia of 17th century, Grseco- Roman cloisters, early tombs and in- scriptions, and the Puerta del Crucerc with the saw-teeth ornament, etc. 242 MADRID-ROUTES. (See Chart}. From Bayonne (A) "by San Sebastian, Burgos, and Yalladolid, by rail. Cities. Distance. Time. Fares. Observations. French Money. Omnibus for Biar- Paris Time. ist. cl. 2d. cl. 3<1 cl. ritz 12 min. ; 250. BAYONNE to Kil. Hrs. min. F. c. F. c. F. c. per traveller 1350. Biarritz . 10 o 20 i 10 o 70 o 45 per parcel. St. Jean-de-Luz . Hendaye 3 30 o 42 i i5 2 80 2 10 i 55 43 3 45 2 60 Hendaye French custom-house. Carriages changed in coming from Madrid ; luggage Irun San Sebastian Burgos . Valladolid . Madrid . 42 389 631 Madrid Time Hrs. min. o 5 o 30 7 50 13 4 23 o Spanish Money, ist. cl. 2d cl. sd cl. Pes. c. Pes. c. Pes. c. o o o o o o 20 I 50 90 30 85 23 15 13 90 44 75 33 60 20 15 72 60 54 45 32 70 examined, 30 mm. stoppage, 10 min. going southwards Irun buffet, Span- ish custom-house. Change carriages, 30 min. stoppage, but often more like i hour. Kil 20 hrs. In French Money, ist. cl. zd. cl. 3d. cl. F. c. F. c. F. c. Omnibuses at the principal stations, and tariff. From Paris to Ba- Bayonne to Madrid . 66x exp. J 25 hrs. Correo. 77 35 58 10 35 30 In Spanish Money. xst. cl. 2d. cl sd. cl. yonne, see Gene- ral Information : 1 How, when, and Pes. c. Pes. c. Pes. c. where to travel in I 77 35 57 90 35 3 Spain.' The Bailway time is regulated on the line from Bayonne to the Spanish frontier, Hendaye, by the Paris meri- dian, and from Irun onwards by the Madrid meridian, which is 24 min. be- hind that of Paris ; while that of Ba- yonne is 15 min. behind. Tickets may be taken at Bayonne, Bureau Central des Chemins de Fer du Midi ; at Madrid, Puerta del Sol No. 9 ; at Paris, Grand H6tel, Boule- vard des Capucines. Children under three do not pay, from three to six pay half-price. Luggage. 30 kil. (661bs.)are allowed to each passenger. Luggage must be registered, which is done on presenta- tion of the ticket at the station. The ticket and luggage offices close 5 min. before hour of departure. Foreigners will do well to have their fares cal- culated, and their money ready, before taking their tickets. Ladies' and smokers' carriages are found in express and mail trains only. Special trains are granted at the rate of 44r. per kil. (12s. 6d. per mile), and not for less than 110 pes. (4 : 8s.) There are no return or season tickets, except between Madrid and the Escorial and Aranjuez. All reclamaciones for luggage lost, etc., to be addressed to Sr. Director de la Explotacion del Ferro Carril del Norte, Madrid, Rev Francisco No. 2, and the gefes de tren (guards) or gefes de es- tacion (stationmasters). The rate of express speed is on an average 30 kil. (19 miles) an hour. BAY ON GREAT :XOimiKKX RAILWAY, A ^B^ FROM THE FRENCH FRONTIER TO MADRID WITH ITS BRANCHES. C ^?jpsptsM& I * \ r V'^ mi J\ ../w i ^_A-~'\V- I V A ' B tMPLONA MADRID ROUTES. 243 Carriages arc changed at Hendaye, as the Spanish railway is constructed on the broad gauge principle, whilst the French have adopted the narrow gauge. This difference was established, it is said, at the request of the Spanish Government with a view to impede communications in case of war between the two countries. Buffets. Miranda, Burgos, Battos, Valladolid, Medina, Avila, Madrid. All kept by French restaurateurs. The fixed price for table d'h6te dinner is 14r. (3s.), for breakfast ditto, 12r. (2s. 6d.) The carte, or lista, is higher. The principal works of the line, which rank among the first in Europe for engineering skill, run through the northern provinces, where there are some very steep inclines. It is a most interesting route from Bayonne, as it passes important cities, and traverses the woody and verdant Basque Provinces, and the imposing plains of Castile. Omnibuses at stations for hotels, 2r. (6d.) ; per trunk, not ex- ceeding 40 kil., 3r. ; if exceeding, lr. for every 10 kil. more ; a small trunk, maleta, 2r. By night service, 2r. more per passenger ; 2r. 25c. at San Sebastian. TOURS BY ROAD. Bayonne. (15 hours' ride by rail from Paris). Hotels: Du Commerce, Rue du Gouvernement, De St. Etienne, Place d'Armes good. Table d'h6te, 4fr. (3s. 4d.); breakfast, 2fr. ; a bed- room, Ifr. 50c. to 2fr. Omnibuses from stations to hotels, 25c. (5d.), and ditto per colis. Bayonne is a small fortified town at the confluence of the Adour and the Nive ; 26,000 inhabitants, a chef lieu of the Basses Pyrenees, bishop's see, etc. The fortifications and citadel are the work of Vauban. The style of the houses, and dress of lower orders, is Basque. St. Esprit is the Jews' quarter, and here reside the descendants of those who escaped the faggot of the Inqui- sition under Philip II. They are numerous, uncleanly as usual in their houses and appearance, and retain their old Spanish and Portuguese names and fortunes. Most of the great Jewish capitalists in France proceed from Ba- yonne the Pereires, Mires, etc., and are called politely des Israelites ; for, as Heine, one of them, wittily defined it, ' un Israelite est un Juif enrichi. ' The great sight is the cathedral a time- honoured Gothic pile, founded 1140, and enlarged 1213, and one of the many churches built in Gascoigne by the English when masters of the country. The cloisters are among the largest in France. St. Andre, recently built, is a plain, elegant edifice. Bayonne is celebrated for its chocolate, hams, and the invention of the bayonet. The chocolate formerly all came from Spain, and as Bayonne is a frontier town, it was smuggled in considerable quantities, and had in consequence a sweeter taste. It is, nevertheless, very well imitated. The hams of Bayona in Galicia, and not of that in France, are the authentic ones ; as for the bayonet, that was in- vented long before the time assigned by the native panegyrists. A more genuine produce, and not the less piquant for that, is the grisette, the milliner girl, whose mouchoir, tiny feet, and southern eyes and hair, bespeak proximity to Spain. There is a good theatre, music on the Place d'Armes on Thursday and Sunday evenings, and a pretty prome- nade along the river, called Les Allies Marines ; two English cemeteries, in one of which, begun by Mr. Harvey, H.B.M. Consul in 1830, rest the officers and men of the 2d Life Guards, who fell during the fruitless siege of the town by the Duke of Wellington in 1814. Half-a-mile S. are the ruins of Chateau Marrac, built 1707 by Maria of Neu- 244 MADRID ROUTES. bourg, queen of Spain, and which, by a strange coincidence, became the resid- ence and prison of Charles IV. of Spain. Post Office, opposite the Vieux Cha- teau, once the temporary residence of Catherine de Medici. Money Changers, Rue du Gouvernement. N.B. English silver or French gold should be changed here. English sovereigns are taken in Spain, but only at bankers' and hotels. British Consul, Captain Leeson. Bankers (at Biarritz, International Bank), Rodrigues and Salcedo, Rue Pont Mayou. Carriages of all sorts, post-horses, etc., hired at Darrigrand's. Large cafe, 'Farnie,' opposite the theatre. Doctor, M. Lasserre. Apothe- cary, M. Lebeuf, Rue Chegarry. Excursions from Bayonne to Pau', three trains a day, 4 hrs. To Cambo, a Swisslike, little Basque village on the Nive, if hr. ; omni- buses go daily to and from Hotel des Basques, a thermal sulphureous establishment. An ex- cursion of 2 hrs., there and back, to Pas de Roland, on ponies. To Dax, by the river, 5 hrs. (by steamers which generally leave on Fri- days and return next day ; also by rail). To Peyrehorade, 2 hrs. ; steamers, three times a week ; good view of the pleasant banks of the river. A splendid view of the Pyrenees, city, and the distant sea, is obtained from the fine Casa Caradoc, a villa in the Mansard style, built by the late Lord Howden, at St. Esprit. To Biarritz^ rail or tram. We recommend the drive by the Barre and lighthouse, and return by the high road ; conveyances every [quarter of an hour, 35 min. by latter, and i hr. by the Barre. Half-way by the Barre may oe visited the nunnery of Le Refuge, founded by the Abbe Cestac. It consists of two orders ' Les Servantes de Marie,' who teach, the poor, make linen, etc., and have converted the former sterile dunes into thriving pinadas and maize fields ; and the female Trappists, called 'Les Bernar- dines,' whose long white woollen dress and vow of perpetual silence are so meritorious in talkative, toilet-loving French ladies. Biarritz. Hotels : Grand, very large and admirably situated ; d'Angleterre ; Des Princes. Pop. 6000. This wild, rocky, little Gascon village, whose fame as the emperor's summer resi- dence is now world-wide, lies most pic- turesquely, with its amphitheatre of snowy houses scattered over its de- clivities ; the climate is delightful, and superior to Pau in many respects. The sea-bathing excellent ; three beaches. The view from the C6te des Basques sweeps over a second Neapolitan bay to the blue-tinted Spanish mountains. There is a good casino. The 'Villa Eugenie,' the late imperial, residence, is happily situated. There is a fine Anglican Church, S. Andrew's, with daily service and weekly communion (Rev. G. E. Broade, M.A., Chaplain) ; also, during the winter season, Scotch Presbyterian and English Roman Catholic services. Two English physi- cians, American dentists, British Club, Lawn tennis, Fox hounds, Boar hunts, Golf Club, etc. The winter season (English) is from October to May ; but the summer (bathing) season is also very animated. Excursions may be made from Biarritz to Bilbao, Santander, and San Sebastian. Steamers, two a-week. To Fuenterrabia, either by rail to Hendaye or Irun, and then 10 miles distance, or better, by a hired carriage, 2% hrs. Fuenterrabia, Fons Rapidus, pop. 2500, is a far better specimen of an old Spanish town than most of those on the Spanish frontier ; and its massive walls, stern, gloomy granite houses, with rejas and iron balconies, retain much character. The castillo was built in xoth cen- tury by the king of Navarre, Sancho Abarca. The fagade on the plaza is of the i6th century. The other fagade was rebuilt by Charles V. The church, Gothic inside, and the exterior of the Revival, contains no object of interest. From its balcony the eye sweeps over those plains, the site of one of the last feats of the British arms in the Peninsular war viz. the Passage of the Bidassoa. Let those who have come thus far just to be able to say they have been in Spain, not proceed further, as MADRID ROUTES. 245 h-un, St. Sebastian, etc., are nothing but Basque towns devoid of interest. Resuming our railway route from Bayonne to Madrid, we soon reach St. Jean de Liiz, on the Nivelle: 4000 inhab. Hotels : De la Poste ; d'Angleterre ; de France. A peaceful sea-bathing resort, and a good specimen of the Basque style of house architec- ture, which is more or less that of every hilly rainy country, reminding one of Swiss chalets and Russian roadside inns. There is a pretty Anglican church of the Holy Nativity, with well-appointed services, the Rev. J. C. Coen, M.A., Chaplain. The enterprising natives have always been, and continue to be, engaged in whale-fisheries. In the fine Basque church, Louis XIV. was married to Maria Theresa, daughter of Philip IV. of Spain (June 9, 1660), so great an honour to so small a town, that the Gascon song runs thus, summing up the glories of the city : Sen-Jan-de-Lutz, pe"tit Paris, Bayonne 1'escuderie ; Lou Rey que s'y maride ; L'Evesque qu< y e"s mourt,* L'Intenden que y e"s demourat The Infanta lodged in the large ' Casa de la Infanta,' on the square. There is a small village upon the left, called Urrugne, a great 'centre' of Basque tennis-court players. Around the dial of the old church clock, whose needles have the shape of arrows, run the melancholy words, ' Vulnerant omnes, ultima necat.' Hendaye (Grand Hotel) is reached, the last French town, and the Bidassoa crossed. Between the bridge and the sea are some fords practicable only at low water. In 1813, the Duke of "Wellington forded the river; the troops climbed boldly the hil] (La Rhune), and dislodged Soult and his * The bishop who married the king died three days after. army, who had taken up positions on its slopes, and were not expecting this at- tack. The Bidassoa, which separates the two countries here, flows for 45 m., and is formed by two streams, coming from Elizondo and El Baztan. The mouth of the river is defended, on the French side, by Hendaye, celebrated for its liqueur, which serves to keep the frontier folk in good spirits, and on the Spanish side by Fuenterrabia, the whole of which would certainly not stand an ordinary gun-shot. In the river, near Behobie, is a patch of land, some square yards in extent, pompously called Tile de la Conference. Here Louis XIV., June 4, 1660, con- trary to etiquette, had a first interview with Maria Theresa ; but it is difficult now, without looking on the islet through the magnifying glass of imagi- nation, to agree with La Fontaine, who said : Je m'imagine voir avec Louis le Grand Philippe Quatre qui s'avance Dans Tile de la Conference. It is not longer, says Theo. Gauthier, ' qu'une sole frite de moyenne espece, ' but room has been found for a marble monument to record that event. Here also Louis XI. of France and Henrique IV., 1463, met to negotiate the marriage of the French Duke of Guienne, when the paltry dresses of the courtiers excited the contempt and indignation of the Castilian noblemen, all velvets and lace. Here, again, 1645, Isabella, daughter of Henri Quatre, subsequent wife of Philip IV., was exchanged against his sister, Anna of Austria, as wife for Louis XIII. Here the Treaty of the Pyrenees was drawn up by Mazarin and Don Luis de Haro (1660). Velas- quez, who fitted up the salon for the conference between his sovereign and Louis XIV., caught a fever, of which he died soon after. In 1526, the exchange of Francis I. , a prisoner then of Charles V., against his two sons, who remained as hostages, took place in the middle of the river. Francis lustily jumped from the Spanish boat into another manned by his own subjects, and rowed in all haste to the shore, when he literally fled to Bayonne, forgetful of his child- ren and of his honour, which he saved at Pavia, 246 MADRID ROUTES as he wrote to his sister. The limits between the two frontiers have been hard to settle, not- withstanding the supposed labours of Commis- sions justly called sans limites, appointed ad hoc, but like some architects, not over desirous of crowning the edifice. Irun (Fonda de Arrupe.} We are now in the Spanish Basque Provinces, and in that especially which is called Guipuzcoa, of which San Sebastian is the capital. The dreaded custom-house officers, vistas, call on us to deliver up our trunks and carpet-bags. Look not too cross nor anxious a cigar and a joke go a long way, but bribing is of no effect here. If not registered throughout (Ba- yonne to Madrid), have your luggage plombt, to avoid further visites on the way ; but when the former case takes place, the luggage is visited only on arriving at Madrid, and when coming from Madrid, at Hendaye. The town is uninteresting. In the vicinity is the Hill de San Marcial, where, August 31, 1813, 12,000 Spanish troops under Me- rino drove headlong back 18,000 French commanded by General Reille. A few miles farther to the right, facing the sea, is the secure Puerta de Pasages. Whole fleets have lain here sheltered from the winds and enemy. The bay narrows at La Punta de las Cruces ; Lafayette sailed from this port to America. In 1719, the Duke of Berwick set fire to six huge men-of-war just completing. The village is now a heap of ruined, smoked hovels, inhabited by fishermen. San Sebastian. Capital of Prov. of Guipuzcoa ; pop. 22, 000. Hotels. De Ezcurra; De Londres; De Inglaterra. Charges pretty high during the summer season. Excel- lent fish; and heady, high - flavoured 'chacoli.' The town is built on an isthmus at the foot of Monte Orgullo or Urgull, to which it is joined by a strip of land, and between two bays. This plaza fuerte is strongly defended by the Castle de la Mota, which crowns the hill. The bay is not secure, and large vessels cannot enter it from its want of depth. The smaller merchant craft, cacha marines, lugres, the Bayonne chassemarees, and Basque trincadours, are moored along the narrow quays. During summer the town is much frequented by Madrilen- ians for sea-bathing ; and tent-like huts or cabins, collectively defined el campa- mento, are erected on the beach of this shell-like (concha) bay. The hills around are clothed with verdure and timber, and dotted with whitewashed Basque cottages, while the banks of the Ururnea are charming and most refreshing after the arid plains of Castile. The alameda promenade is pleasant in the evening, when the military band plays. There is a small theatre, and a bull-ring whose funciones, though despised by aficiona- dos, are much resorted to by French and English residents at Biarritz and Pau. The large arcaded Plaza de la Constitucion presents a curious sight on holidays, when may be seen, in all their genuine, naive, antique, Celtic charac- ter, the Basque costumes, dances, and on some occasions the toro de fuego and other semi-barbarous jollifications of this wild, noble race. San Sebastian is remarkable for the beauty of its female population. There is nothing very Spanish about the houses, streets, etc., and such will be the case until we reach Burgos. The churches are indifferent : that of Sta. Maria has a churrigueresque fa9ade and heavy tawdry altars. San Vicente is late Gothic, with an interesting western porch. Ascend to Monte Orgullo, 20 min. walk ; the view from the summit is fine. At the back of the rock are some graves of the gallant English officers who fell during the siege. There is little trade ; about 250 small vessels come and leave annually. In MADRID ROUTES. 247 1813, when the city was garrisoned by 3000 French veterans under General Rey, it was assaulted by the British forces under the Duke of Wellington, who succeeded in taking the main works and town. The French, never- theless, retired into the upper citadel and intrenched themselves strongly, and it was not until August 31 that they surrendered, the success of the attack being chiefly the work of the blue jackets. Two -thirds of the garrison perished, and the English had 5000 killed and wounded. The town was sacked and set on fire by the English troops, drunk with triumph and wine. This unfortunate issue could not be pre- vented, and all the energy and example of the British officers were of no avail. Excursions. (a) A fine walk along the Paseo de Ategorrita to the crest of the hill overlooking both San Sebastian and Los Pasajes; from thence to Bidasoa and return by the coast. (b) The ascent of Monte Igueldo, on the W. side of the bay. Very fine views from the summit, (c) By diligence or carriage to Zarauz and Azpeitia (see p. 65), the latter both for the sake of the old Basque town and the Loyola monastery and Casa. Frequent steamers from San Sebastian to Bayonne, Bilbao and Santander. Dil. daily to Zarauz, Bilbao, Cestona, Vergara, Azpeitia, etc. The railway now ascends very gra- dually, winding its way through the 7alley of the Urumea, a Swiss-like re- gion ; then follows the course of the Aria, and reaches Tolosa. On the Aria and Arages. Pop. 9000. In a valley formed by the Ernio and Loazu hills. A small, in- differently-built Basque town. The Church of Sta. Maria contains good specimens of the marbles found in the vicinity, some cloth and paper manufactures. A pretty Paseo de Igar- rondo. Alsasua About 35 miles from To- losa ; is the junction for Pamplona and Vitoria. Capital of Prov. of Alava. Hotel: De Pallares. Pop. 25,700. The ancient Beturia, a height in Basque. The town is divided into the old Suso, and the new portion. It is a pleasant, gay, and thriving provincial town, with a healthy climate and some charm- ing promenades, especially the Florida, at the foot of which the station is placed. The Prado is another paseo, and during the winter the arcades of La Plaza Nueva. The Colegiata dates 1150, but has been altered. The Go- thic arches are striking. The Chapel de Santiago contains some interesting tombs. In the sacristy may be noticed a fine Piedad, ascribed to Murillo. In the Church of San Miguel, observe the high altar, which is the work of Juan Velasquez (not the great man) and Greg. Hernandez, one of the best Span- ish sculptors. The Battle of Vitoria, a celebrated English victory, took place in the vi- cinity, on the opposite side of the town, June 1813, between the British forces under the Duke of Wellington, and the French army commanded by Joseph Bonaparte and Jourdan, which ended in the total rout of the latter, who fled in disorder Joseph (Pape Botella, as the Spaniards nicknamed the "bottle- loving king) riding a mule, and leaving his magnificent collection of pictures to the victorious duke. The plunder amounted to 5, 000, 000 dols. The battle of Vitoria led to the expulsion of the French from Spain. Miranda de Ebro is the first Castil- ian town we meet. Excellent buffet. The Fonda de Guinea, close by the station, is good. The train soon after crosses the Zadorra and Ebro, follows the course of the Oroncillo, and enters the grand, stern, wild, Salvator-Rosa scenery of the gorges of Pancorbo. The ruins on the heights are those of a fort called de Sta. Engracia, which was taken and destroyed in 1823 by a French division j under Prince de Hohenlohe ; and also 248 MADRID ROUTES. of a castle to which, according to tra- dition, Roderik, the last of the Goths, carried the fair La Cava, for whose sake he lost his sceptre and his life. On J caving these rocky chasms and bound- ing torrents, a tunnel is entered and BURGOS reached. (See Burgos.) Now several rivers are rapidly crossed the Carrion, Pisuerga, Duero, Es- queva, etc. , all entering the valleys of Arlanzon and Valladolid. Venta de Banos. Here a line branches to Santander, by Palencia, Alar, and Reinosa. Valladolid (which see). An im- portant station for the N. line, and where all its materiel is kept and made and repaired. On leaving it the Duero is crossed, and then the Adaja follows a S.W. direction, and crosses the Za- pardiel at Medina del Campo. Inns poor, but good buffet and sleeping accommo- dation at the station. Change here for Salamanca, Zamora, and Segovia. On leaving Medina the Duero is crossed again, and at Arevalo the Adaja, on a fine stone viaduct of four arches. Arevalo is a miserable village, 2200 souls ; the palace, whose ruins we see, has nevertheless been the resi- dence of Queen Isabella, Charles V., Philip II., etc. Avila (which see). Amid rich val- leys, marble-pregnant hills, and oak and pine forests. The train now ascends pretty steep inclines, seldom exceeding in speed 15 miles an hour. This portion is among the finest and costliest works of the company, owing to the broken -up con- figuration of the country. Thus, the tunnel of Navalgrande is 2983^ feet long, and 2520 ft. above the sea. The soil has been brought and accumulated to 146 ft. At Las Navas del Marques are crossed very extensive pine-forests, the property of the Duke de Medina- celi, and 10 m. long. The famous Es- corial is left a little to the left. (See Escorial.) Another tunnel passed, 812 ft. long, the Manzanares crossed, por- tions of the royal pleasure-grounds of El Pardo and Montana del Principe Pio traversed, and in the distance, nearing fast, Madrid appears before us, the royal palace crowning the height in front. On leaving the train we ascend to the town by the steep hill and gate de San Vicente. Cabs and omnibuses in attendance. (See Madrid.) B. Zaragoza and Guadalajara. By Bayonne to Alsasua, a station on Madrid and Burgos Railway. Time 5 hrs. 30 m. Change carriages ; take up the Pam- plona railway from Alsasua to Zaragoza by Pamplona, by rail direct; time, 2 hrs from Alsasua to Pamplona, and from latter to Zaragoza, time 6 hrs. 30 m.; Zaragoza to Madrid, time 10 hrs. 30 in. Total Bayonne to Madrid time 24 hrs. As seen above, this is not the most di- rect route of the two. (For description of Zaragoza, see that name. ) This section of the Norte railway is well managed, but the buffets are in- ferior to those of the Burgos line. It passes, however, by the interesting cities of Pamplona, Tudela, Calatayud, Sigiienza and Guadalajara, from all of which points fine excursions can be made. Description of Route. The railway crosses several very pretty valleys watered by the Borunda and other minor streams, and soon after Zuaste we reach Pamplona. Capital of province of Navarre. Pop. about 29,000. Inns. Fonda de la Perla, Plaza de la Constitucion, good ; Fonda de Europa, Spanish, inferior. A small but pretty theatre; Caf6, Suizo, near theatre. Bull - ring, Bull - fights in July and August, the ring holds 8000 persons. Baths, Paseo de la Taconera. Post and Telegraph Offices, both in the Plaza. MADRID ROUTES (PAMPLONA). 249 The city stands on the left bank of the Arga, on a height commanding the fertile plains around. It is fortified, and was always considered the frontier key of Spain on that side of the king- dom. The citadel in the S.W. part of the town, and other works of defence, are constructed on the model of Ant- werp, and after Vauban's principles ; it is strong, and can hold a garrison of 3000 men. The name of Pamplona is derived from Pompeiopolis, or Pompey's city, which he is said to have founded in commemoration of his victories over Sertorius. Sancho Abarca fixed his court here, and it became the capital of the kingdom of Navarre. The kings of France long ruled over it in consequence of the marriage of Phillipe le Bel with Dona Juana. His granddaughter was married here to the Count de Cham- pagne, and succeeded to the crown ; here also their coronations took place, and the event was celebrated with tour- naments, bull-fights, and dances. To complete the festivities, and offer a novel spectacle pleasant to the princes, no less than 10,000 Jews, it is said, were assembled and burnt alive in the square ; the human bonfire (adds ex- ultingly a chronicler of the time) could be seen for miles and miles distant. During a siege of the town by the French under Andre de Foix (1521), Ignacio de Loyola, the founder of the Jesuits, was wounded, and it was dur- ing his convalescence that he planned the rules which were to govern his semi- military order. A small chapel, chur- rigueresque and indifferent, raised long afterwards to his memory, is situated near the promenade, and behind the Palacio de la Diputacion. Bonaparte, February 1808, sent d'Armagnac to Pamplona, under the guise of an alli- ance with Charles IV., when the Spa- nish authorities were weak enough to serve out rations to their friends in the citadel. Thereupon, soon after their arrival, some French grenadiers, under the pretence of playing at snowballs, secured the drawbridge, and took pos- session of the town ; but after the battle of Vitoria, the Duke of Wellington blockaded the town, and, notwith- standing Soult's desperate efforts to re- lieve it, entered it after a short resist- ance (1813). Sights. STIje (TTatficUral, built by Charles the Noble, 1397, on the ruins of a former, which dated from 1100, and of which several portions remain in the Chapel of Sta. Cruz. Observe, amongst others, the very richly orna- mented capitals, which decorated the principal portal. The edifice is not large, but offers here and there some good specimens of light Gothic. The Grseco-Roman principal entrance was put up by Ventura Rodriguez, 1783, and, though out of keeping with the rest, is of very good style, and effective. The interior is simple, and divided into five naves. The choir -stalls are by Miguel de Ancheta, 1530. They form two tiers, and number fifty-six richly- carved sillas above, and forty-four be- low, all very elaborately carved, with semi-relievos representing saints, patri- archs, and prophets. The reja is a fine example of cinque-cento. On en- tering the choir, and in the centre, are the tombs of the founder and his queen; on the cushion are the words ' bonne foy, bonne foy.' At the king's feet is a lion, and at the queen's two dogs. The door which leads into the cloister is of the end of the 14th century. Ob- serve the well-sculptured scenes from the life of the Virgin. Sola Preciosa, where the Cortes of Navarre formerly met. There is a fine tomb, with an equestrian statue of Conde Gages. Chapel de Sta. Cruz, a fine reja made with the chains taken at the battle o; 250 MADRID ROUTES. Las Navas de Tolosa. The relics are kept here. The cloisters are light and elegant. This is really the only sight, and the mansion-house, citadel, and other churches are devoid of interest. A theatre, casino, and bull-ring. La Tacontra is the fashionable promenade, and the view from it of the valley and mountains is extensive and fine. This 1 muy noble y nmy leal ' city has been a focus of civil war, holding out staunchly against Don Carlos. The place should be visited on the Feast of St. Fermin, Sept. 25. Excursions. To Logroflo t 48 m. : daily dil. by Puente de la Reina (Convent of San Juan del Crucifijo) and Estella. (Residence of Don Carlos in 1835 ; old Alcazar ; fine Romanesque Church of San Pedro : 2 m. off Benedictine Monastery of Ihrache, with well restored Early Pointed church.) To Soria. Rail to Alfaro, and then dil. Look here for several i2th and i^th century buildings. See also Santo Domingo, San Pedro, and the Convent of San Juan. Visit (5 m.) the ruins of the heroically famous Numantia. To Tudela (indifferent Fonda de la Union). Rail in 4^ hrs. Magnificent Transition cathedral, Church of Santa Maria (note especi- ally sculpturing and cloisters), Church of La Magdalena. To Tarazona and Veruela. Drive from Tudela. At former, fine i3th century cathedral, with very remarkable i6th century brick cloisters. Churches of La Magdalena and San Miguel. At Veruela a Cistercian abbey, with Romanesque and Early Pointed church and cloister. \N.B. Ecclesiologists should on no account omit these excursions.) Calatayud. (Kalat- Ayub, Castle of Ayub.) Most important city of Ara- gon after Zaragoza. Pop. 11,000. Fonda de la Campana, fair. Birth- place of Martial. Close by stood once the city of Bilbilis. Munjcepes, Augusta mihi quos Bilbilis acri Monte creat, rapidis quern Salo cingit aquis ; MARTIAL. Spared for some time by the Moor, it was finally destroyed by him ; and a new city built near it by Ayub, whence its present name. It was captured, 1120, by Alfonso el Batallador, and be- came an important strategical position, the scene of several sieges. It is gloomy, dull, but preserves still much of the stern, massive, Aragonese charac- ter. The churches, though numerous, are devoid of interest ; and, though dating from early periods, such as the Colegiata de Sta. Maria la Mayor (1249), have been altered and disfigured. The Moreria, or former Moors' quarter, is in the upper portion, the oldest of the town, and mostly composed of excava- tions in the rock, where dwell the poorer classes. These mazmorras date from the time of the Moors, and are seen in many parts of Spain, and at Granada especially. They deserve the artist's visit, as misery is most pictur- esquely clad in Spain, and the groups, attitudes, etc., of the inmates full of character. The rail, on leaving Calatayud, fol- lows the course of the Jalon, and crosses its pleasant valley. A tunnel, 2923 ft. long, is traversed, and we enter the val- ley of the Henares ; the scenery becomes wild and picturesque, and cultivation is rare ; we cross the river Henares, by following which we arrive at Siguenza. Prov. of Guadalajara. 4700 inhab, ; bishop's see, suffragan of Toledo. Seldom visited. Inn: Fonda at the station ; fair. It is built on the slopes of a lofty knoll, bathed on the E. side by the Henares. The massive walls and former gates still exist, sombre, and flanked by turrets. On the highest point of the city stands the imposing castle, the residence now of the bishop. The streets are narrow, winding, steep, and ill paved ; but there breathes still about the old city an air of grandeur, antiquity, and strength, which throws over it a melancholy not destitute of charm. Observe the very early houses around San Vicente, some Byzantine even ; and in Plaza de la Catedral, several others of the plater- esque and Gothic styles. MADRID ROUTES (SIGUENZA). 251 Sights. The great sight is the Cathedral. This castellated church stands between two plazas, on the slopes of a hill. The fa9ade is flanked by two lofty massive towers, with buttresses terminated by balls ; that of the left was erected by Bishop Don Fadrique, of Portugal (1533). Two substantial and lofty salient buttresses enclose the central portal, and on each side, between them and the towers, is a portal, with a window over it, circular, and with rich Byzantine details. The central consists of a glorious rose-window, with small pillars radiating from the central circle. The portals are all circular ; the central is deeply recessed ; they are decorated with sixteen columns, the sculpture of which has been destroyed, vestiges remaining only in that to the left. The medallion over the central portal represents the Virgin giving the casulla (chasuble) to San Ildefonso ; it is modern and indifferent. The balustraded parapet crowning the fa9ade, and connecting the towers, is in good style, and of 18th century. The railing which encloses the edifice all round is also modern. The date of the erection is uncertain, probably from end of 12th to beginning of 13th century. The interior is plain and striking. The proportions are, 98 ft. high for the central nave, the lateral ones having only 63 ; the length, 313 ft; the width 112 ft. It is divided into three noble naves, formed by ten massive piers, 50 ft. circumference. From these spring twenty small, slender, reed-like shafts. grouped in rows of three together, and with capitals consisting of wide leaves of the transition between Byzantine to Gothic. The windows, destitute of painted glass, are Byzantine in the lateral naves, and Gothic in the central one. The High Chapel begins at the transept. Its ingress is closed by an elegant reja. At each side is an ala- baster pulpit, with figures. That on the side of the epistle is Gothic ; the one on the side of the gospel, plateresque. This chapel was founded by Bishop Mendoza, and dates, therefore, during the decline of Gothic. Several tombs on the sides. Among them, observe one with the recumbent effigy of Bishop Bernard, a Frenchman, and Primate of Toledo. There is also a fine one of Car- dinal Alfonso Carrillo (1420). The re- tablo was put up 1613, by Bishop Mateo de Burgos. It is of the three orders, and with bassi-relievi representing scenes from the life of Christ. The statues of Faith, Hope, and Charity, are the most remarkable feature. The taber- nacle is churrigueresque. The trascoro must be closely examined, as it is not only richly ornamented with marbles, but is a good specimen of the period when it was raised (1685). The image of Sta. Maria la Mayor is much vene- rated, but not by sculptors. The altar is decorated with Solomonic pillars of black marble, with bronze bases, and sculptured, all in bad taste, and of end of 17th century. Chapel of Sta. Catalina. It was dedicated to St. Thomas of Canterbury, a few years after his martyrdom, by Bishop Jocelyn, who came to Spain with Queen Leonor, when a great many churches and chapels were raised to that saint throughout Castile. The portal is plateresque, by Vazquez de Sosa, and put up by a bishop of Cana- rias and Canario. It is a most exquisite work. Notice besides the excellent style of the tombs of this worthy prelate, Fernando de Arce, who died 1522, and that of his brother. The altar is chur- rigueresque, but the former one, with a fine Florentine picture of the cruci- fixion, may be seen in the sacristia. Visit also the Chapel de San Francisco Xavier, its tombs and crucifix ; the tomb and colossal effigy of Bishop 252 MADRID ROUTES. Lujan (ob. 1465), near the baptismal font ; the excellent portals of Chapels de San Marcos and La Annunciacion, which contain a Gothic retablo and plateresque tomb ; the altar of Sta. Librada, who was one of nine saints, sisters, all lorn at the same time. These darlings, a blessing for any father, had nine amas (nurses), and de- served, say the pious historians, palms of nine martyrdoms. Pope Innocent IV. (1243, 1251), in two different bulls of those dates, mentions the fact, and enhances the miracles performed by this the eldest of that holy family, whose body was brought here from Asturias. The indifferent retablo dates 1498-1511. The sacristia, also called the sagrario, is the work of Alfonso de Covarrubias. Observe the ceiling decorated with busts of old men, fair virgins, and grotesque buffoons. The Chapel de las Reliquias has an ochavada (octagonal) cupola full of sculpturing. The church plate, which the French did not carry away, is fine and of value, but of little artistic merit. The present cloisters, elegant and plain, were built by Cardinal Car- vagal, 1507, on the site of the former ones, of which some curious slabs, etc., have been preserved ; some fine plater- esque portals. In the Sala Capitular de Invierno ladies will do well to in- quire for some old and admirably- worked tapestry. A visit may also be made to the Jeronimite Colegio, founded 1488, where observe the classical cloisters and tomb of Bishop Risova (ob. 1657). Two miles from the town is the village of Villavieja, on the site of Segoncia or Saguncia, founded by the fugitives from Saguntum. Guadalajara. Capital of province of same name. Hotel: Fonda del Norte ; poor. Pop. 7902. Said to be the Arriaca of Antoninus, and the Caraca of Ptolemy and Plutarch ( ?) It is, at all events, a very ancient city, the Moors' Wadk-1-ha-Jarah, the river of stones was captured from them by the cele- brated companion of the Cid, Alvar Fanez de Minaya, and became the ap- panage of the Mendozas, ancestors of the Duke de Osuna, to whom most of the town still belongs. These feudal lords possessed, in the 15th and 16th centuries, 800 villages and 90,000 vas- sals, and their pages were all titled gentlemen of Castile. Here died the celebrated Gran Cardenal de Espana (llth January 1495), in the presence of the Catholic kings. Here, 1525, Francis I. resided some time on his way to his gaol at Madrid. He was much feted by the old gouty Duke del Infantado, and the reladon of the festivities is curious. The first day, bull-fights and jousts by the gentlemen of the ducal court ; the second, a beast-fight between tigers, lions, etc.; the third a tourna- ment. Some time afterwards, the French monarch challenged his host (1528), who asked advice and leave of Charles V. The king answered him by letter not to accept the proposal. Philip II. despotically disposed of this city in favour of his aunt, the widow queen of France, and obliged the duke to abandon his palace. Here he was married to Isabella de Valois (1560). In 1714, Philip V. was also married here to Isabella Farnese ; Juan of Austria resided here ; and the widow of Charles II., Maria de Neubourg, breathed her last (1740). The Mendozas became ex- tinct in the 17th century, and their col- lateral branch, the dukes of Infantados, removed their residence to Madrid. Palace. A visit should be paid to their palace, which was begun by the second duke, and of the 15th century. It is in the Gotho-plateresque transi- tion style, with many vestiges of the Moorish taste. Observe the fa$ade and armorials the row of Moorish MADRID ROUTES (CUENCA). 253 windows, agimeces, greatly disfigured by modern common-place balconies. The square patio with two tiers of gal- leries, with shields of the Mendozas and Lunas, flanked by griffins and large Alhambraic heraldic lions. It is very elegant and quaint. Read the inscrip- tion over the lower arches, which, after detailing with evident self-indulgence all the titles of the founder, finishes by Solomon's 'Todoes vanidad !' an incon- gruous humility on such an ostentatious mansion. The architects were Juan and his brother Enrique Guas, the same who designed the San Juan de los Reyes at Toledo. What a difference between this bastardised plateresque and the pure undefiled style of the church ! Visit the long Guarda Muebles ; observe here the huge chimney and artesonado. Sala de Linages is the finest room here. Notice the stalactite gilt roof, escut- cheons, and busts. The third duke, a very pious man, turned it into a chapel, and his singers and chaplains are men- tioned in Navagiero. On Corpus Day he solemnised the festivity by proces- sions, dances, masquerades, bull-fights, 'en honra del Santfsimo Sacramento,' as Alvar Munez de Castro has it in his * Hist, de Guadalajara.' Visit also San Francisco, rebuilt 1393, and the Panteon of the Mendozas, begun 1696, finished 1720 ; the tombs, once among the finest in the world, were barbarously mutilated by the French. The former solar of the Mendozas, now a carrol, is in Pla- zuela de Sta. Maria. Here the great cardinal died. There are few other sights. The town hall, of 1585, was altered in 1716. The Colegio de In- genieros is indifferent. Shortly after quitting this town we cross the Jarama on a fine bridge, then the Abronigal torrent (arroyo), and reach Madrid, which we enter by the Prado and Calle de Alcala of San Geroniino or Atocha. Another route by road. There is an old and practically disused diligence route from Alfaro to Sigiienza, passing through Soria. We have followed it more than once, however and can testify that there is nothing either in scenery or towns to repay for the jolting and general discomfort. The only advantage is that one may thus visit Soria en route, and save the excursion from Pamplona. N.B. The best plan for visiting carefully the cities referred to above is as follows: Give a few hours only to Guadalajara in pass- ing, and so avoid the poor fonda. Sleep at Calatayud, and from thence go on to Tudela, where stay at least two days. (In that case inquire for a casa de hue"spedes close by the Fonda de la Union, and more comfortable. From Tudela visit Tarazona (dil.) and Veruela (driving or riding). Then go on to Pamplona, stopping on the way to look at Olite and Ta- falla. From VALENCIA* vid CUENCA by road and rail. Rail as far as Utiel ; three trains daily. Also from Cuenca to Madrid, vid Aranjuez. The princi- pal places of interest passed on the way are: Requena (14,000 inhab.), Min- glanilla, (2500 inhab. ; mine of very pure rock-salt, worked since the time of the Romans, but now stopped), Cuenca and Tarancon. CUENCA. Pop. 8000 ; capital of pro- vince of same name (N. Castile). Hotels. De Madrid, fair, 74 pes. ; De Comercio. Most picturesquely situated on the steep slopes of a large knoll, or loma, between the deep beds of the Jucar and the Huescar, which wash its base. The city, seen from below, rises with its clusters of houses like an amphitheatre. The name Cuenca is derived from a shell (concha)) say some etymologists. The place is old- fashioned to the last degree, and no comfort is to be expected. Yet it is well worth visiting alike for its his- torical interest (for the great names to which it has given birth, and as having * Note. Routes from Valencia by Rail, see page 255. 254 MADRID ROUTES. been a head-quarters of the Great In- quisition and of Jewish persecutions) and for the beauty of its natural sur- roundings. Among these latter must not be neglected the fantastic groups of stones, well styled the Ciudad En- cantada, and the picturesque scenery on the Jucar river, rich in spoil for hunter, botanist and angler. The best-known ' Cuenquences Ilustres ' (see D. Fermin Caballero's Biografias) have 1 been the great Mendoza, Gil Albornoz, ' the artists Becerril, Yaiiez, and Mora, and the poet Figueroa. Besides the bishop's palace, the bridge of San Pablo, and the Casas Solares of the Conquis- tadores, the chief sight is the Cathedral. The square fa9ade looks well from a distance. The edifice rises on a platform, and is ascended by an escalinata or grees of stone. As to its style it is Gothic, save the crowning portion, which is of the 17th century. The church was built in the 13th cen- tury, on the site of a former mosque, and it has preserved its early Gothic style with some Byzantine vestiges here and there. The interior consists of the naves ; the central one, called de los Reyes, is higher than the lateral ones. The arches are of a very pointed style, the pillars massive, but the colouring and whitewash mar the effect which would otherwise be produced by the general plain majestic character of the whole. The dimensions are 312 feet long by 140 wide. The transept is effective. Observe the painted win- dows. As usual, the choir blocks up the central nave. The stalls have been sadly modernised. The organs and pulpits indifferent. The reja and lec- tern are fine specimens of the plater- esque, and masterpieces of Hernando de Arenas (1557). The present retablo is a medley of fine marbles, though much admired, and unworthy of its designer, Ventura Rodriguez. Among the chapels, observe the plateresque portal of that of Los Apostoles. The portal into the cloisters most berru- guete-like. The chapel de los Cabal- leros is of various periods. The plater- esque portal towards the transept is strangely crowned by an admirably - wrought stone skeleton, with inscrip- tions : * De victus militibus mors tri- umphat.' * Disrupta magna vetustate restituta sit perpetuo. ' The reja fine. The pictures in the retablo date 1525, and were painted by Hernando Yanez, a pupil, it is said of Raphael. The Virgin and Child is the best. Among other sepulchres of the great Albornoz family, notice that of the great cardinal, and of his mother. The cloisters are in the Hen-era style, by Juan Andrea Rodi, 1577-83, of no great importance. The portal of St. Helena, and classical reja of that of San Juan, deserve notice. Among other old houses in this city, tourists must not fail to visit those in the Calle de Correduria. At TARANCON, 5000 inhabitants, the Rianzares is crossed, which together with the name of the village were granted as titles to Munoz, the second husband of Queen Christina. A little farther on the railway leaves the old direct dil. road to Madrid, and swerves round to Aranjuez. Following the road, at Villarejo, in the parish church, may be seen some good paintings by Orrente. Then come olive grounds and waste lands. The Taj ana is spanned by a stone bridge, and through a pretty valley we ascend to Arganda, 3000 in- habitants, celebrated for its excellent red wine. Shortly after leaving this, the Jarama is crossed, near its conflu- ence with the Manzanares, and on a fine suspension bridge. Vacia Madrid, a hamlet, is reached, and then Vallecas, a city of bakers, and we enter the capital by the ronda, on the left of the Alicante railway station. MADRID ROUTES (ALMANSA). 255 MADRID from MARSEILLES and BAR- CELONA vid VALENCIA. The route from Marseilles may be followed either by Nismes, Montpellier, or Perpignan, whence by Barcelona and Zaragoza ; rail throughout (see Barcelona, etc.), or by sea from Marseilles to Valencia, per steamers of the Florio-Rubattino Co., fortnightly both ways, or Frassinet et Cie, weekly both ways ; 48 hours' voy- age. For fares and precise times of sailing see advts. in time-tables, or apply at agents' offices. From Va- lencia, by rail, in 15 hrs. ; two trains per day, joining the direct line from Alicante to Madrid at La Encina. The sea passage is generally rough especi- ally in the Gulf of Lyons, and during the equinox or the winter and the hours of departure, etc., are uncertain. But good sailors will enjoy the trip, as the coasts of Spain, on nearing Valencia, present a charming, novel spectacle, from their peculiarly African character and vegetation. MARSEILLES. Grand Hotel Noailles and Grand Hotel du Louvre, both in Rue Noailles, well situated and good. Pop. 270,000. The chief French Mediterranean port ; a handsome thriv- ing city, improving rapidly in every sense, and most important as a com- mercial centre. The principal streets are La Cannebiere and the recently- opened Rue Imperiale, which inter- sects the old parts of the town. Principal sights : The magnificent new Exchange, a fine new Cathedral, Zoological Gardens, Museum at Chateau Bordli Square, and Fountain de 1'Obelisque, a large theatre, the Prado, a promenade 3 miles long, etc. English Church, 100 Rue Silvabelle ; service at 10.30A.M. and 3 P.M. From Marseilles to Paris, by rail, 20^ hrs. To London direct by Paris, 30^ hrs. To Nicr by rail, 6 hrs. On arriving at VALENCIA, see this name for description, fares, etc. The route from Valencia to Almansa passes no cities of any importance ; but the scenery is most Oriental ; the vege- tation exotic. About Cattaroja the fertility of the soil is such that it yields, in irrigated soils, above 80 per ct. per acre. Near Silla is the large lake of La Albufera (see Valencia). Alge- mesi the church contains several fine Ribaltas. Alcira. As the Huerta of Valencia is called the Garden of Spain, this place is defined the Jardin del Reino de Valencia. Between this and Jativa, and more especially about Carcagente (pop. 10,000), the eye sweeps over a vale of plenty. The olive, the orange, the mulberry ; the many and pictur- esque water-wheels, called norias ; the low white -washed terraced cortijos, shaded by a couple of stately palms ; the Bedouin-looking farmers, whose absence of dress confirms Voltaire's saying, 'Rien n'habille comme le nu'; the square brick belfries of the village churches, whose bright -coloured azu- lejos shine in the glorious sun such are the principal features of the country we traverse until we reach Jativa (also called San Felipe), pop. 14,500. In- different fonda in the Calle de Moncada. This ancient Roman and Moorish city was the home of the great Borja, or ' Borgia,' family, and the birthplace of the painter Ribera. Finely situated, but dirty. The torrent of La Montesa is crossed on leaving it. The ruins of the castle of that name are seen in the distance. This castle was once the stronghold of the knightly order of Montesa, established in 1318, after the suppression of the order of Templars. We enter a tunnel near Fitente de la Higuera, some 1500 metres long, and arrive at ALMANSA. (8900 inhabitants. June- 256 MADRID. tion for Alicante.) A Moorish dilapi- dated castle on the N.W. heights. Cele- brated for the battle won by Philip Y.'s army, under Berwick, against the Arch- duke of Austria's troops, 1707. The route from Almansa to Madrid has been described under ALICANTE, which see. MADRID from LISBON vid BADAJOZ and MERIDA. Time, 21 hrs. ; fares (liable to variation) in Sp. money, 1st cl., 86 pes. 35c. ; 2d cl., 64 pes. 65c. ; in Port, money, 1st cl., 15,540 reis ; 2d cl., 11,630 reis. The time at Lisbon is 25 m. behind that at Madrid. For description of route, see Lisbon. MADRID. Climate. The characteristics of the climate of Madrid, which stands 2384 feet above the sea, are extreme heat in summer, extreme cold in winter, with some exceptional spring-like weather, dryness of the air, and sudden changes. The icy northerly wind which sweeps over the glaciers of the Guadarrarna, pierces the very lungs, as it were, with a steel blade. In winter its prevalence, which, however, happily does not last long, induces pneumonia, or inflammation of the lungs. When the wind blows in summer, its antagonism with the burn- ing breath of the south-east renders the shade dangerous. The north-eastern and south-west winds may be said to be most prevalent, the former in the win- ter and spring, and the latter in the autumn and summer. The difference of the temperature between sun and shade is 20, hence the Spanish pro- verbs : ' En Enero busca la sombra el perro :' * Hasta el cuarenta de Mayo no te quites el sayo. ' In consequence of these sudden changes, that icy dryness and rawness of the air, apoplectic at- tacks are frequent, and the nervous system is affected. During the sum- mer, bronchitis, pneumonia, catarrhal bilious fevers, and dysentery prevail ; chronic diseases become more acute, and consumption especially so. The tem- perature varies a good deal according to the different quarters of the town, and on the whole we should advise a southern aspect. Rain is scarce. There is no endemic malady, and the colique de Madrid, of which French travellers write, is imaginary. There are very few days in the winter that a drive in an open carriage cannot be taken, and the bright, sunny, cloudless sky is the rule, not the exception. The climate has therefore been much calumniated, and * nueve meses de invierno y tres de infierno ' was applied to Valladolid, not Madrid. Ordinary precautions when the Guadarama wind prevails, and cur- tailing one's usual allowance of wine when ' los calores ' begin, and no abuse of iced drinks and fruits at that season, is all that is required. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS made at the OBSERVATORY OF MADRID. to * a Temperature of air if ! Months. Maxi- Mini- Oscil- ^ 1 mum mum lation. 6 y rt ti P December . 59 25 34 112 17 January February 61 59 24 32 37 27 2 5 2 106 5 13 March 75 34 76 3 April . 77 32 45 82 10 May . 88 36 52 235 8 June . July . 98 45 52 56 46 144 24 6 2 August September 107 1 02 55 45 52 57 104 I October . 88 36 52 49 II Novembei . 63 32 48 8 MADRID ITS HISTORY. 257 Madrid. (Pop. about 410,000.) Is placed militarily under the jurisdiction of a captain-general ; administratively, under the orders of a golbernador civil, which answers to the French prefect; and of an alcalde corregidor (lord mayor), who is at the head of the corpo- ration, el ayuntamiento, the revenues of which are considerably curtailed by the absorption by government of the derechos de puertas, which really apper- tain to its fund. H'istory. Of the early history of Madrid we know little or nothing, save that when Toledo fell into the hands of the Arabs it became an advanced post to that city. They called it Mahubib, and in the chronicle of Sam- piro it is mentioned as Mazerit. It was strongly fortified, but finally taken and razed, 939, by Don Ramiro II. of Leon ; was wrested a second time by the Moors ; peopled chiefly by Moz- arabes, and recovered by Alfonso VIII. , 1083. The town was situated to the W., and crowned the heights over- hanging the Manzanares. The walls extended from the strong Puerta de la Vega, by the Vistillas, to Puerta de Moros, that looked towards Toledo, a quarter which was subsequently allotted to the Moors and Jews. They then followed by the street still called Caba Baja (a deep or low ditch), at the extremity of which was Puerta Cerrada, with a dragon or serpent sculptured upon it, continuing by the Casa Juan Miguel, Puerta de Guadalajara, which was the finest, and placed in the centre of the present platerias. On the hill now called Cuesta and Plazuela de St. Domingo stood several watch-towers, and another gate called Bab-el-Nadur. In the 12th century the city extended more towards the E., in those parts where now stand the churches of San Martin and San Gines, and towards the S. to San Francisco. In those days, over the present arid plains extended thick forests of oaks, chestnuts, and madronos (strawberry-tree), infested with bears, wolves, and other wild beasts, thus affording excellent hunting and shooting, to enjoy which the kings of Castile often repaired to Madrid. It must have been then a city of some importance, as it was often chosen for the convocation of the Cortes, and the coronation of kings ; however, it assumed no well-marked individual importance until the 16th century, when it became the constant residence of Charles V. The climate was well suited to the infirmities of the emperor; and another monarch, Sancho IY., had already resided here for the sake of its invigorating ' aires.' Though Toledo was then the court and capital, the emperor often preferred the sojourn of the quiet hunting-box of Madrid ; and the election of this city as the metro- polis of the kingdom was not Philip II. 's idea, but had long prevailed in the mind of his father (Cabrera, ' Hist, de Felipe Segundo/ book v. c. 9). At this monarch's instigation, strengthened by the vicinity of the Escorial, in which 258 MADRID HOTELS. he had resolved mostly to live, Philip II. declared Madrid the only court of the kingdom, Umca Corte (1560). This most wise and politic measure has often caused surprise in those who have over- looked the serious reasons that dictated it. The unification of the monarchy could be achieved only by the centralis- ation of power ; and with the hope of absorbing all hostile feeling then so prevalent between provinces, he thought it wise to select a city free from local traditions, and for that reason more willingly acceptable to all. Great pro- jects were planned, the realisation of which would have confirmed this selec- tion ; but the death of the king and subsequent reigns impeded their being carried out. Philip III. removed his court to Valladolid, but the interests already created in Madrid were too powerful now to admit of such a change, and the climate of Yalladolid was moreover ill suited to the king. Philip V. and Charles III. considerably en- larged the city, and added many useful public works, edifices, and monuments. During the French occupation of Mad- rid several projects of amelioration and embellishment were planned, which, if realised, would have considerably im- proved the capital. The city arms (see page 257) are : a tree vert, with fruit gules, up which a bear is climbing, an orb azure, with eight stars argent, and over the silver escutcheon a royal crown, which last was granted by Charles Y. in 1544. The city is styled ' Imperial y coronada, muy noble y nmy leal, ' to which Fer- dinand VII. , in 1814, added 'y muy heroica.' Madrid rises on the slopes and sur- face of a plateau formed by sandy limestone hills, on a plain which is hounded K.N.E. by the Somosierra, and N.W. by the Guadarrama range of hills, which latter are capped with snow during winter. The Manzanares girda it to the W. and S.W. It is the resi- dence of the court, Metropolis de las Espanas, captaincy-general of Castilla la Nueva and a bishop's see, suffragan of Toledo (a concession of the last con- cordat with Rome). Hotels. 1 . Grand Hotel de la Paix, in the Puerta del Sol, Nos. 11 and 12. Most conveniently situated in the centre of the town. Well furnished ; good service ; good cuisine. Charges from 12^pes. ; overcharges frequent. English and French spoken. The ' Succursale, ' Hotel de Londres is good also ; but the 'Paix,' the 'Londres,' and the 'Paris,' have deteriorated. 2. Hotel de Paris, Puerta del Sol, good accommodation ; charges some- what lower than the former. 3. Grand Hotel de Russie, Carrera de San Geronimo ; well furnished ; recom- mended ; from 10 pes. per day. 4. Hotel de Roma, Caballero de Gracia ; to be strongly recommended. Charges from 10 pes. 5. Fonda de los Embajadores, in Calle de la Victoria ; comfortable and mode- rate. N. B. Prices at hotels in Madrid are charged whether the visitor dines and breakfasts at the hotel or not. Lodgings Called Casas de Huespedes (huesped, a guest), a sort of boarding- house, where, for a fixed price, varying from 6 to 10 pes. a day, everything in- cluded, parties can get a very decent room, two meals a day, and attendance (for the latter 2r. extra are usually paid a day). The following partake of the comforts found in hotels, and, though the dear- est, are the best, in Madrid. MADRID THE CITY. 259 Several, close by the Puerta del Sol, in the Arenal, Preciados, Carmen, etc. ; No. 2 and N"os. 16 and 18 Arenal ; No. 9 Preciados ; No. 9 Puerta del Sol ; No. 20 Calle Montera (English house) ; No. 17 Calle de Alcala, over the Res- taurant de Los dos Cisnes ; Carrera de San Geronimo, Nos. 45 and 47 (Hotel Santa Cruz). At some of these houses Spanish ways must not be objected to, or an occasional Spanish dish, but there is nothing to offend any save the most fastidious. Unprejudiced travellers will find a good Casa de Huespedes thoroughly comfortable, and reasonable in cost compared with the groundlessly high prices of some of the great hotels. Similar establishments, but of inferior accommodation and at reduced charges, are daily advertised in the local papers, especially in the 'Diario,' or * Boletin de Avisos.' N.B. Meals, whether taken or not, are usually paid for in the bill. If intending to reside some time, it will be advisable to take an apartment with or without furniture, according to the conditions. The latter may be hired by the month or year at moderate prices. The best apartments, pour garqon, are situated in Plaza de Oriente (choose the side with a southern aspect), Plaztiela de Bilbao, Calle del Arenal, etc. Bestaurants : De Fornos. Dinners and suppers, 20 to 30r. a-head, or a la carte ; excellent, and situated in the Calle de Alcala. Los dos Cisnes. Same street, ad- joining the former, equally good. Cafe de, Madrid. Good. French cuisine ; not so fashionable ; in Calle de Alcala. Cafe IngUs. Calle de Sevilla. Excel- lent chops and steaks. Lhardy.-A.-o. old established French house, Carrera San Geronimo. Excel- lent dinners ordered beforehand. Good pastry-cook. Fonda Peninsular. Calle de Alcala, No. 15 ; a very old establishment ; good situation ; dinners, 14r. a-head, two tables d'hote ; 1st at 5 o'clock, and 2d at 7. Cafes. The most fashionable are : El Suizo, Fornos, both Calle de Alcala ; Imperial, Puerta del Sol, 1 ; Viena, Calle de Alcala (for ladies) good cakes and ices. The charges at the hotels and res- taurants have changed of late years a good deal in the undesirable direction, and it may be wise to examine the tariffs in supplement to the above figures. General Description. Madrid, not- withstanding the most unfavourable circumstances that can check the pros- perity of a metropolis such as a great elevation, an almost waterless river, an arid, sandy soil, and an isolated situa- tion amid treeless and wind-blown plains, to which may be added the ne- glect of Government, the paralysation of private enterprise, and other disas- trous effects with which continued political disturbances are usually at- tended has now, with the rest of Spanish cities and the country at large, fairly entered the path of progress, and bids fair to become shortly one of the handsomest and most prosperous capi- tals of Europe. The suppression of convents, the Law of Desamortizacion, and subsequent sale of church and part of the secular property, as well as the reform of the municipal corporation, 260 MADRID THE STREETS. and the enactment of new regulations concerning the police, public health, etc., have certainly been powerful causes in placing Madrid in so pros- perous a course ; but it is principally indebted for this to the now possible and already much extending and na- turalised companies of credit, which were called to life under the Progresista Ministry. These have by their vigour- ous initiative succeeded in spreading a network of railways over Spain, of which Madrid has been made the centre ; and they, moreover, have assisted, with their capitals, govern- ment, and speculators, in realising works of great public utility and im- provement. Thus the capital has been placed in direct communication with the Mediterranean by the Alicante, Valencia, and Barcelona lines ; with the Atlantic by the Santander, Bilbao, S. Sebastian, and Coruna railways ; and with Portugal by the lines running through Badajos, Caceres and Sala- manca. Madrid has been made the axis of a wheel from which the many main railway lines diverge like spokes ; and by this means the varied articles of commerce belonging to the kingdom have been rendered easily come-at-able. All the necessaries and luxuries of life, whether imported from the provinces or from abroad, are now obtained in greater abundance and at lower prices than before. Tele- graphic wires also connect the metro- polis with every large city within the kingdom, thus affording to Government the power of exercising a comprehensive and effective action over the provinces. Drought, which had been heretofore a permanent cause of ill-health, and the great obstacle to the embellishment of the town, and even to the amelioration of its climate (by making impossible the plantations necessary to counteract its noxious influence), is now no longer to be dreaded, since a very abundant supply of beautiful clear water has been brought from the Lozoya, a river that rises some 12 leagues (42 m.) off, under the Guadarrama, and numerous planta- tions have consequently been made, squares established, and villas and gardens sprung up in all directions. Large stores and several manufactories have been established. Several com- panies, with large capital subscribed by respectable firms, have been set on foot for the exclusive purpose of build- ing houses and opening new quarters in and around Madrid; and from all these causes the population increased to such an extent that Government deemed it expedient to issue a Royal Decree (July 19, 1860), by which the boundaries of the city (an area of 15,553 varas) were to be extended by 3500 acres more. The value of pro- perty, a sure sign of prosperity, has of late years so considerably increased that central portions have been sold at prices that would compare with those of any other great continental cities. As to the general appearance of Ma- drid, we may state that it has little or nothing Spanish about it. There are no vestiges of the Moorish, mediaeval, or brilliant periods of Spanish art ; no cathedral, strange to say, nor churches containing objects of art to interest the tourist ; and the few monuments and public edifices that exist were erected in a period of decadence, when the churriguresque and rococo were all the fashion, and marked the likewise fallen spirit of the age and court. The artist, however, may turn aside from these to devote his time and admiration to the magnificent picture-gallery, which con- stitutes, with the royal palace, the em- phatic feature of Madrid, and admits no equal in the world. The streets are wide, clean, well paved, and well lighted ; spacious MADRID PUERTA DEL SOL. 261 squares have been laid out with, trees and ornamented with grass-plots, flowers, and fountains ; the new shops in some streets almost rival those of Paris. The houses, with the exception the grandees' mansions and some other private ones, are lofty, with ginger- bread plaster frontages, painted some- times in gay colours. They are mostly built on speculation, and are let out for lodgings, and hold several families having the same staircase in common, as in Paris. They are well provided with fireplaces and water, and remark- able for the Flemish cleanliness and peculiar luxe displayed in the stucco entrance-hall and winding staircases. There is great life and movement in the streets ; and though the population has a European character in its dress, some picturesque costumes may yet be seen here and there, and the mantilla and cloakhave not altogether disappeared before the invading French bonnet. The toilettes at the theatres, and the Paris turn-outs and English horses at the Fuente Castellana, exhibit an amount of wealth, taste, and outlay unparalleled in any other city of the same size in Europe. The Puerto, del Sol is the most central part of Madrid, and the heart of the city. From it diverge the principal streets, which are the broad and hand- some Calle de Alcala, running parallel with the Carrera de San Geronimo, which leads direct to the picture-gallery. The Calle de Carretas, almost opposite to the steep and old-fashioned Calle de la Montera, from the top of which four streets branch viz., the Hortalezaand Fuencarral parallel to each other, and at the sides the *Caballero de Gracia, which emerges in tho Calle de Alcala, and the Jacometrezo, ending in Calle Ancha de San Bernardo. The Calle Mayor and del Arenal lead to the palace, longest street is the Calle de Atocha, which begins at Plaza Mayor, and ends close to the Alicante and Zaragoza rail- way terminus. The best streets for shops are Carrera de San Geronimo, Carretas La Montera, and Postas. Tho street where the most numerous gran- dees' and handsome private houses are to be seen is the Calle Ancha de San Bernardo. The Plaza Mayor and Plaza de Oriente are the finest squares, the first generally frequented by the lower classes. The Calle de Toledo is the most Spanish-looking street in the capi- tal ; and the adjacent quarters, inhabited by the lower orders such as El Lava- pies, Rastro, Barrio Nuevo, together with the parish of San Andres, San Francisco et Grande, and the old Mo- reria (district or locality formerly al- lotted to the Moors) form the older portion of the city, which overhangs the Manzanares. The new barrios or quar- ters tend rather towards the suburbs of Chambery, Canal, and gate of Alcala. The principal villages around Madrid are Carabanchel (divided into higher and lower portions), Chambery, San Isidro, and El Pardo. The Season at Madrid begins about the middle of October, and ends in March. The Castilians, as a race, are a grave, sedate people ; but the Madri- lenos, though Castellanos also, depart from this rule, and the liveliness, sprightliness, and gaiety of these self- called * Gates de Madrid ' are equal to their love for pleasure, fondness of show, boato, and their furia for theatricals and pageants. It may be truly affirmed that as God worked six days and rested on the seventh, Madrilenos rest the six, and on the seventh . . . go to the bull-fight ; A los toros! Indeed, such is their longing for excitement, that they will go without their pucker o rather than miss the new drama at Novedades, not attend the procession on Good Friday, or fail to enjoy the minutest 262 MADRID SOCIETY. details of any other spectacle that may come within their compass. There are twelve to fifteen theatres and circuses, which are usually crowded ; and as Spaniards like music and under- stand it, the Italian and national opera comique (la zarzuela] are in great vogue, and the companies first-rate. Carnival is the gayest period in the year, and tourists must not fail to re- sort then to the Prado on the three glorious days of public merriment, when half the population turns out de mas- cara, to 'intrigue' and 'chaff' the other half, all in the pleasantest and most good-humoured way ; for it is a charac- teristic of this people, that in all popular outbursts, at fetes, bull-fights, races, or elsewhere, riots, drunken men, black eyes, blacklegs, and blackguards, are seldom to be seen, and all and each ob- serve a dignified deportment, and pay great respect to authority. To those that are acquainted with London, Vienna, or Paris fast life, there will be here little to amuse, and Madrid must prove a ' slow ' place. The promenade to the Prado, and drive to the Obelisco Castellana ; the opera in the evening, or a visit to the theatres, and now and then a ball at court, a soiree dansante at a foreign minister's, or one or two bals costumes such are the events in., a Madrid man's life. Add to the list the usual daily round of tertulias, and now and then a canter across a denuded, hedgeless country, after, and often be- fore, some hungry, vagabondising hare. The casino and cafes are the great resort after the theatre. It is well situated, and comfortable, and frequented by good society. There is a good deal of gambling at the trente-et-quarante tables ; and, although most that play are caballeros por los cuatro costados, there may be, now and then, a few ex- ceptions, and we advise our readers to abstain and look on. The blame of want of hospitality, which is so freely lavished on Spaniards, is not, on the whole, a just one. The Spaniard is a man of his home ; he is fond of an intimate circle of friends, in whose society he can live without gne, think aloud, say what he pleases, and dress as he likes. Intimate friends are engaged once for all to dine with each other on a particular day, every week ; and the dinners, usually cooked by French artistes, are first-rate. Strangers invading this intimate coterie, or ter- tulia, and expecting the white choker round one's neck, and round one's thoughts strangers, el estrangero, those natural foes to all Eastern nations, who would criticise the faulty French spoken for their sake, and laugh at the habits of the people these are not invited as often as they might expect. Were they to show greater tact, and more courtesy towards little faiblesses, they would de- rive both pleasure and advantage, and share the easy, courteous, open-hearted society of well-bred Spaniards, who will always give place, and be the first to know and state the truth about them- selves and their country. As to the rest, society, in manners, dress, etc. , is here what it is in London or Paris ; and we must lay aside antiquated notions and romantic impressions, which may have been acquired from recollections of 11 Barbiere di Siviglia in London. There is little or no art in Madrid. An exhibition, more of pretty toilettes than of pictures, takes place once a-year at the ' Trinidad ; ' but with this ex- ception, the few artists that are meet with no protection or encouragement of any sort, and the picture-gallery is generally deserted. Literature is still at a low ebb. Spaniards, engaged until now in serious political dissensions and civil war, which were constantly menac- ing their property and lives, have not had leisure to attend to intellectual MADRID THE ROYAL PALACE. 263 pursuits ; though honourable mention, by way of exception to such a sweeping rule, must be made of such circles as El Ateneo Cientifico y Literario, and the entourage of the professors of the various Academias, La Institucion de la Enseuanza libre, etc. On the advent of summer, all who can afford it leave Madrid, which is then converted into a furnace, and pass los calores either at the Escorial and La Granja, or, farther off, at San Sebastian or Valencia. Then blinds or awnings are stretched over every window and mirador. During the day, between noon and 6 P.M., no human being is to be seen in the streets, except, perhaps, as the proverb has it, ' un perro 6 un frances.' People in that season dine at five, and afterwards take a siesta. From 9 to 12 at night the Prado becomes crowded. The gas- lamps are lighted ; large iron arm-chairs lie scattered in circles for tertulias al aire, and people, for the first time in the day, are able to open their mouths without too excruciating an effort. A line of open carriages, dragged lazily along by horses with drooping ears, and still at their siesta, winds at a foot's- pace along the still-heated iron railings, leaning over which are beardless Don Juans and sentimental Trovatores, in light alpacas, who listlessly watch las ninas as they pass, and now cast a glance of recognition, or smile in token of respectful admiration. The Madrid rising generation are called ' polios, ' as being all unfledged pullets ; many of them are a ' mauvaise imitation du mauvais genre fra^ais,' but most are inoffensive bipeds, and more amusing than mischievous. Royal Palace. It is seen with per- mission (papeleta) from the mayor-domo or from the Intendente de la Casa Real ; apply with card and passport ; it can be inspected only when the apartments are unoccupied, and then on every day except holidays, flgf The entrance to the chapel is free. To visit the stables, apply to the master of the horse, Caballerizo Mayor. [The times of admission are very uncertain and arbi- trary.] The Library consists of about 100,000 books and MSS. It may be readily visited through an introduction to the librarian, and permission to study in it obtained. The Palace is built on the site of the Alcazares that stood in the 10th and llth centuries, the last of which was destroyed by an earthquake ; and of a former palace built by Henry IV., enlarged by Charles V. in 1557, embellished by Philip II. and completed by Philip III.,whoadded afa^ade, which was a masterpiece of architecture, and the joint work of the great masters, the Toledos, Herreras, Moras, Luis, and Gaspar de Vega, etc. The reception- hall, 170 ft. long, the wonderful picture- gallery (which, among other gems, con- tained the Torre Horada of Titian) the Guarda Joyas, or Regalia, among which was a diamond of an enormous size worth 200,000 ducats; a pearl as big as a nut, called La Huerfana (the Orphan), from its being unique, worth 30,000 ducats, a considerable sum for that time ; and a wonderful fleur-de-lis in gold all these and many other mar- vels, which existed at the beginning of the reign of Philip IV., were unfortu- nately destroyed in a fire which took place on Christmas night 1734, and consumed the whole building. Full details of these may be found in Davila's * Teatro de las Grandezas de Madrid. ' Philip V., that pale counterfeit of Louis XIV., resolved on building a new palace that would eclipse Versailles. He sent to the court of Turin for the celebrated architect, the Abbate Jubarra, who de- signed a palace which was to be situated on the heights of San Bernardino, and such as had never been seen to that day. It was to be a square edifice, of the 264 MADRID THE ROYAL PALACE. Composite order, to have four facades, each 1700ft. long, thirty-four entrances, 2000 pillars, twenty-three courts, gar- dens, a theatre, churches, and public offices in fact, a town of palaces, rather than one alone ; an idea of which may be gathered from a small model now in the Galeria Topografica. But kings, often great builders, are seldom good architects, and Philip crippled the genius of Jubarra, changed both his plan and situation, preferring the pre- sent site to that which he had suggested, and which was superior in every respect. But before he had begun the works, the Abbate died, and designated for his successor (for genius is also royalty), his countryman Giovambattista Sachet- ti, a native of Turin. This architect, more a courtier than an independent artist, altered his predecessor's plans, moulding them to the king's fancy, and <>m ployed his ingenuity in turning to good account the declivity and uneven- ness of the ground, thus gaining in depth and height what was lost in ex- tent and breadth. The first stone was laid April 7th, 1737. It was first inhabited by Charles III. (1764), who added the two salient pavilions at the angles, and two wings, at each side of the principal fa9ade, which have remained unfinished. The cost amounted then to 800,000, with- out the foundations. The building forms a square 471 ft, and 100 high ; it belongs to the Tuscan style ; the base is of granite, and the upper portion of the beautiful white stone of Colmenar, which resembles marble. It is com- posed of three storeys ; the lower one is plain, severe, and massive ; that above is made lighter by means of columns and semi-attached pillars, of Doric and Ionic style, dividing a row of balconies, high and narrow, and crowned by a triangular frontispiece alternately with a circular one ; the third, and upper storey, consists of small, square, paltry windows. A wide cornice runs round the top, and over it is a stone balustrade, on the pedestal of which stand rococo vases which were substituted for the former series of statues of kings and queens, now decorating the Plaza del Oriente, and removed on account of their great weight. The roof is of slates, and crowded with lohardillas, (attics or garrets) where live a dense population of pensioned invalid flunkeys, and swarms of well-doing pigeons. The principal facade is to the south, and is pierced by five ingresses ; that to the E., on Plaza de Oriente, is called ' del Principe ;' it is always used by the royal family, except indeed the reign- ing monarch. The late King, Alfonso XII., however, could be seen leaving the palace by the Plaza de Oriente for his afternoon drive. He lived in the right aisle. The principal royal apart- ments overhang the Campo del Moro, with a fine view of the Pardo and the Guadarrama range. The walls on the S. and eastern side rise 100 ft., but from the uneven ground those towards the river are more than twice that height. The northern entrance is con- sidered the most effective, and so think also the unfortunate sentries, many of whom are frozen to death during the winter months, especially those on guard at the Punta del Diamante. In the centre is a * Patio,' 140 ft. square and surrounded by an open por- tico composed of thirty-six arches, and as many above which form a gallery with glass windows : in this court are four large statues of the four Roman Emperors who were natives of Spain viz., Trajan, Adrian, Honorius, and Theodosius all indifferent ; indeed the patio is so, and moreover cold and de- nuded. The grand staircase is magnificent, of white and black marble, and rises op MADRID PALACE. 265 posite to an indifferent statue of Charles III. The marble lions are finely exe- cuted. On Napoleon's entering this palace for the first time in 1808, he is said to have exclaimed, while eagerly placing his hand on one of them, * Je la tiens enfin cette Espagne si desiree' ('Teneo te, Africa,' said Caesar); and turning round to his brother Joseph, he added, * Mon frere, vous serez mieux loge que moi, ' and he stood some time pensive, gazing on a portrait of Philip II. He never lived in this palace, but at Chamartin, a small villa of the Duque del Infantado, half-an-hour from Ma- drid. The fresco ceiling was painted by the academical Conrado Giachinto, and represents the Triumph of Religion and of the Church, to whom Spain is offering her trophies and the fruits of the soil. The first floor contains thirty salons magnificently furnished, and with fresco ceilings by Bayeu Maella, and Gonza- lez Velazquez ; everything here is on the usual princely scale of Spanish palaces. Observe the countless clocks, a mania with Ferdinand VII. and his father, who never knew the right time, and were, like them, either too slow or too fast ; this defect has been transmit- ted to the family, and foreign ambassa- dors at this court attribute the want of punctuality shown by its members to this multiplicity of time-pieces. Charles V. was also a great collector, and on not succeeding to make two go alike, ob- served how foolish it was to pretend to make men's heads think the same. There are few good pictures remaining of the former numerous collection, most of which were removed to the museo in the reign of Ferdinand VII. The prin- cipal salon is the 'hall of ambassadors,' or 'Sala del Trono.' The ceiling by Tiepolo represents the 'Majesty of Spain ; ' observe the costumes personi- fying the different provinces. Chapel Royal of the pseudo-classical style, with Corinthian marble pillars and frescoes by Conrado ; the tribunes opposite to the altar are occupied only by the royal family. The church, con- sisting of one nave only, is gaudy. N.B. Tourists should not fail to be present at the Lavatorio, or washing the feet of the poor, which is performed by the King on Holy Thursday. To see this ceremony a card is necessary. The regalia are on the whole worthy of a sovereign whose ancestors ruled for so long the destinies of the New "World ; but they are seldom shown. The palace garden, situated in a hollow between the western fa9ade and the Manzanares, is indifferently laid out ; examine nevertheless an admirably exe- cuted white marble fountain, opposite to the conservatory, which has been placed in the underground portion of the palace. The Garden and adjacent walks oc- cupy the site of a former park often mentioned in the comedies of Calderon and Lope de Vega. The palace must be viewed from the road, the Casa de Campo, or from the mountain del Prin- cipe Pio. Its aspect from these points is the best. Examined in an exclusive- ly architectural view, this palace marks an important date in the history of Spanish art, as being the type of the second Revival of Graeco-Roman style. It is too low, heavy, monotonous, defi- cient in purity and correctness, and breathes not the classical spirit of Her- rera. The interruption of horizontal lines by salient aggregates, the ill- judged combination of these same lines, the incongruous ornamentation of out- lines and mouldings these and other defects are very evident, and betray ignorance of the adaptation of classical details, and even of the fundamental principles of the models of antiquity, in simplicity of lines, rectitude of pro- 266 MADRID PALACE. files, distinguished by a horizontal ten- dency. On the other side we must admit its general elegance, sumptuosity, vast proportions, and admirable effect. Stables and Coach-houses of the Pa- lace. These were begun by Charles III., nihil damnatior qiiam in cedifi- cando, and finished by Ferdinand VII. They are situated on the north of the palace, occupying a most extensive area, and, from the uneven ground upon which they are built, the horses and carriages which enter by the eastern in- gresses are lodged on the fourth floor, looking towards the north. Visit first the stables, Cuadras, which contain up- wards of two hundred horses and mules. Observe the long-maned, cream-colour- ed Aranjuez carriage breed. A horse couleur de rose is not a rare thing in this happy land of anomalies ; and several may be seen here. Admire the splendid fiery Cordobese barbs, the finest in Madrid, with those of the Duke of Abrantes and Count de Bala- zotes. Visit the Prince of Asturias' stables, composed of ponies of the Shet- land and Galician breeds ; the Anda- lusian jaquitas, and a couple of minia- ture mules worth any sum. The taller members of the long-eared tribe are all first-rate, and most admired by con- noisseurs of that neutral gender of qua- drupeds, many of which have cost 5000, 8000, andll,000r. Cuach-houses (Las Cocker as). They contain 124 vehicles of all sizes, dates, and uses ; from the cumbrous old coach, to the spider-like Victoria and baby pony-chaise ; from the triumphal car, the triumph indeed of bad taste, down to the hearse, all gold and glitter, and fitted up to throw royal dust to the gaping multitude. The carrozas, or state coaches, are superb ; decorated with paintings, gilt-bronze figures, etc. ; that inlaid with ebony, and the master- piece of Duran, which cost 15,000, without the hammer- cloth, which, with others, is judiciously kept apart. Ob- serve another all mahogany, platina, etc., which cost 9000. From an early period royalty in Spain drove always in preference to riding, which was custom- ary in other countries. The Spaniard loves the carriage, and there were thou- sands in Spain, before there were any roads for them to go upon ; but sudden transitions from extremes are frequent here, where railways have been substi- tuted for roads, gas for darkness, Vol- taire and Democracy for the Inquisition. Many of the older coaches have been presents from sovereigns, and among them are two very modest ones, which were sent by Queen Victoria. The more modern have been made in Paris. State pageants in Spain outstrip in magnificence and display any in France, Russia, or Austria ; even when the queen travels, the whole nation may be said to compose her suite, such are the crowds of officials and servants, the strings of carriages and fourgons ; the movement of troops lining the way and escorting the comitiva. Do not omit the dark cumbrous carriage used by Crazy Jane, when she carried about with her the body of her husband, Philip le Bel. It is the earliest on record in Spain, 1546, so it is said, but the coach dates beginning of 17th century from its style. Saddlery, 'guarnes' (harness, guar- necer, to trim). Observe the richly-em- broidered hammer-cloths : state capa- razones for the horses, many of which were embroidered in the time of Charles V. ; the showy state liveries, velvet embroidered saddles, those worn by the principal grandees' champions on state bull-fights (cciballeros en plaza), etc. etc. ; the raised back and front, the very concave shape, stirrups, etc., are all very Moorish and such as are now used by Picadores. Alguaziles, MADRID PALACE ARMOURY. 267 etc. Saddle is called silla, applied also to chair, sedile, from which the English saddle, German sattle, French selle, are all derived. The old Spaniard was a good rider, and learnt much from the hippie Arab. The escuela castellana picador (riding-master) teaches the rising generation to ride stiffly, the toes on the edge of the stirrups, the leg straight, the left hand gracefully resting on the hip, all principles which look better in Yelazquez and Titian's eques- trian portraits than they would before a four-bar gate in Lincolnshire or a six- foot wall in Ireland. The riding-school (picadero, from the pricking with the pointed end of the stirrup, estribo, which served as spurs) is large and well built up. Besides the royal family, grooms and post-boys of the Casa Real are taught riding a la Inglesa, and turn out very fair ginetes. The AKMOTJRY (Museo de la Real Armeria) is open daily from about 10 A.M. until noon. Some little difficulty may be experienced in gaining admit- tance, as the necessary formalities are somewhat arbitrary. A persevering foreigner with a passport will usually be allowed to enter freely ; but it is better to obtain a pass (free) at the office of the Intendencia, close by the Armoury. This can be done by the hotel commis- sionaire. The edifice, built by Gaspar de la Vega, in the reign of Philip II., is most indifferent. The Armoury was established here in 1565, when the splendid collection of arms formed by Charles V. was removed hither from Valladolid. Many important later additions from Spanish and foreign sovereigns, purchases, etc., augmented the collection. Much was plundered by the French during their occupation of Madrid, and great confusion caused, which was slowly remedied. The now rare catalogue published 1793, drawn after the * Inventario General Historico ' of the same year, throws little light on dubious origins of swords, etc. A new arrangement was made in 1848, and a complete catalogue was drawn up in 1861 by Senor Romero after Sensi's work of 1838. In July 1884 a fire caused irremediable injury, consuming most of the old banners, trappings, and other stuffs. Fortunately the more valuable objects were saved ; and the collection is still probably the finest in the world. A fresh rearrange- ment has lately been made (1888), but even now the whole is in a transition state. The following list gives the principal objects of interest, but it must be taken rather as a companion than as a guide. No hand catalogue is available : A Moorish sword, called Boabdil's ; doubt- ful, and with an illegible inscription. Two ascribed to that Granadine king are mentioned in the catalogue of 1793. The Misrak used by Ali-Bashah, Admiral of the Turkish fleet at Lepanto. A montante, sent by Clement VIII. to Philip II., in 1593. Another one, sent to Juan II. of Castile by Pope Eugenius IV., in 1446. An elegant pommel. That belonging to Garcia de Paredes. Of the Valencian school. The helmet of D. Jayme el Conquistador. Of paper -board, with a winged dragon, the Limousin Dracpennat. Sword which belonged to D. Jayme el Con- quistador. Brought from Majorca, 1831. (See also sword of Pelayo's.) A large and very ancient sword. Belonged to Gonzalo de Cordoba. Sword, belonged to King Fernando el Santo ; with figures of St. Barbara and St. Christopher, and the words 'Jesus, Maria.' Sword, described as Pelayo's, but doubtful. Two shields, presents of the Duke of Savoy to Philip III., in 1603. An excellent specimen of Toledan blades, the work of Cantero, 1564. A Toledan blade of Ferdinand V. el Catolico. 268 MADRID ARMOURY. A sword described as having belonged to Bernardo del Carpio. Sword of the 'Gran Capitan,' a magnificent Toledan blade, said to have been a gift of the Catholic kings to Gonzalo de Cdrdoba, and now used as the sword of state, upon which the oath of allegiance to the Princes of Asturias is solemnly taken. On one side of the gilt pommel is represented a battle, with a legend, allusive to the hero's victory over the French at Cannes ; and on the other an inscription, calling him a third dictator, stating that ' Facta Italiae pace, Janum clavsit,' etc. A Valencian sword of Isabel the Catholic, with the warlike inscription, ' Nunca veo paz comigo,' and 'Deseo siempre Gera.' A German sword by Solingen, taken at battle of Norlingen. A double-handed sword of Charles V. , made at Zaragoza. Sword of Philip II., the work of the Portu- guese Menchaca. A fine blade of Juan Martinez, of Toledo. A gem of the palmy days of the Revival, and a masterpiece of Sebastian Fernandez, of Toledo. Observe everything here ; the busts, the medallion, with a basso-relievo re- presenting the Judgment of Paris, and others ; the genii, satyrs, etc. Its length, about 4 ft. ; its weight, 2 Ib. 13 oz. La Colada, ascribed to the Cid, and formerly to Hernan Cortes. A sword belonging to Don Juan of Austria, made at Zaragoza. ' Montante ' of Ferdinand V. el Catdlico, with the motto, ' Tanto Monta ; ' from Zara- goza, and of the sort called ' Al mendrada.' An admirable copy of the sword of Francis I., which this king gave up when taken prisoner at the battle of Pavia, and which is now in Paris Musee d'Artille'rie (832). This copy is the work of Sr. Zuloaga. Sword of Francisco Pizarro, the conqueror of Peru. A magnificent sword, the one usually worn by Philip II. The blade is German ; on one side is the inscription, ' Pro Fide et Patria, pro Christo et Patria. Inter Arma silent Leges. Soli Deo Gloria;' and on the other, 'Pugna pro Patria, pro Aris et Focis ; nee Temere, nee Timide ; Fide sed cui vide.' A sword of Charles V., brought from the monastery of Yuste, after the emperor's death ; the work of Juan de Toledo. Sword of Hernan Cortes, with the well-known mark of the ' Perrillo.' Another with the same mark, and which belonged to the celebrated poet, Garcilaso de la Vega ; but another sword of his (1916) is more interesting, as it states that by its means the poet slew a Moor on the field of battle. He killed a Moor who had railed at the Virgin. Sword of Suero de Quinones, the hero of the Paso Honroso, near Leon. Armours, Saddles, etc. Half -suit, be- longed to Juan de Padilla, head of the Comun- eros. From Charles V.'s collection. Effigy of King Ferdinand el Santo, carved by Piquer, after the original portrait of the king. The crown, admirably executed by Sr. Zuloaga, the most skilful of Spanish armeros. It is borne processionally to Royal Chapel on the anniversary of the capture of Seville, May 29, 1248. There are also several revolvers of lyth century. A magnificent pair of stirrups of Charles III. Roman equestrian armour of Charles V. The war saddle of James I. of Aragon, el Conquistador. War saddle ascribed to the Cid. Armour of Charles V., brought from Yuste. A magnificent Florentine armour of the Great Duke of Alba. Milanese armour of Antonio de Leyva. Equestrian armour of Hernan Cortes. A very fine armour, which belonged to Boab- dil, the ill-fated Bey Chico de Granada. It proceeds from Charles V.'s collection. The authentic armour worn by Christopher Columbus ; it weighs 41 Ib. Complete armour of Charles V., in which he was portrayed by Titian (picture-gallery). Complete armour of Philip II., in which he was portrayed by Titian (picture-gallery, 769). A Chinese armour, a present of the Emperor of China to Philip II. Bronze armour used in Spain towards end of 1 5th century. They are a modification of the Lombards, serpentines, of earlier times. Complete armour of the ill-fated Don Carlos, son of Philip II. A portable arm-chair used by Charles V. in campaign. Equestrian armour of Charles V., in which that emperor entered the city of Tunis ; it weighs 7 arrobas, 14 Ib. The sword is a fine Toledan blade, made by Juan Martinez el Viejo. A Borgonota helmet of Charles V. Observe the admirably-executed relievos of warriors and centaurs, and gold and silver damascened. MADRID ARMOURY. 269 Litter used by Charles V. in campaign, and when gout prevented him riding. Helmet of Philip II., remarkable for the finely-executed Revival relievos of the Italian school. Equestrian armour of Prince Philibert of Savoy. An English banner taken at the siege of Carthagena (Indies), with the motto 'nee aspera terrent.' Armour of Charles V., and the finest here of Italian workmanship (1539) ; brought from Yuste. A helmet and shield which belonged to Francis I., and were found with his other effects at the battle of Pavia ; but they were not those worn by him on the day of the battle. Very interesting saddles, with pictures on the bows ascribed to Perin del Vaga, a pupil of Raphael and others. N.B. Observe the fine specimens of firearms in armarios F. and G., and of armario E., the beautiful shield (1379) with relievos represent- ing scenes from the ist chapter of Petrarca's 'Trionfo d'Amore.' The magnificent shield (557) cuadro 15, a masterpiece of the Milanese Nejroli. The firearms of the Madrid arcabu- ceros are worth notice. A barrel of an escopeta, the work of Cristobal Trisleva, and which was loaded by the breech presented by Sr. Zuloaga. A sort of sceptre found in the ruins of Orfah Mesopotamia. We must also draw the atten- tion of visitors to the Visigoth votive crown. The iron inkstand used by Charles V., and brought from the Escorial, and admirably en- graven d Veau forte. Gold votive crown, with precious stones and a cross suspended within the crown ; weighs 46 onzas and 5 adarmes. The inscription : ' Svinthilanos Rex offerret.' (Svinthilic reigned 621 to 631, and was the 23d Visigoth monarch.) Gold votive crown offered by Abbot Theo- dosius ; sapphires, etc. ; fine. Gold Cross offered by Bishop Lucetius. The rest are fragments of crowns, an emer- ald on which is engraven the Annunciation of the Virgin ; six large sapphires, etc. These crowns were worn, and then, with some addi- tions, constituted a solemn pious offering to some church on a particular event, and the chains, etc., were added probably to suspend them before the altar. The workmanship resembles certain ornaments of the Merovin- gian period, and evinces beauty in general design and richness, being of great value as relics of the Visigoth age. These proceed from a field near the small village of La Fuente de Guarrazar, near Toledo ; and before these, some other and larger insignia of the same age had been dug up by chance and sold to the French Government for 100,000 fr., and we saw them not long ago at the Hotel Cluny. The Spanish Government claimed them back on the ground of their being national regalia and heirlooms of the state, but they have not been given back. A severe decree ruling treasure- trove in Spain was the consequence. For further details see a paper written by Mr. Albert Way in the ' Archaeological Journal,' and a notice by M. du Sommerard in the ' Monde IllustreV 1860 ; see also Mr. F. de Lasteyrie's exhaustive ' Description du Tresor de Guer- razar,' etc. ; Paris, 1860. Gold crowns were always worn by the Visigoth kings. We read in Conde that Moussa ordered about 400 families of the blood royal to accompany him to Syria as hostages, and they bore round their heads diadems of gold, and girdles of the same. Also, in Conde, book i. chap. 12, when Tarik was lodged in the Alcazar of the Visigoth kings at Toledo, it is mentioned that ' in a secluded room of the royal palace he found twenty-five gold crowns inlaid with hyacinths and other precious stones, for it was the custom that, after the death of a king, his crown should be laid aside here, after engraving upon it his name, age, and the time that his reign had lasted.' Much useful information can be ob- tained from Riano's ' Industrial Arts in Spain' (Chapman and Hall, 1879), where lists of armourers' names are given. The Artillery Museum. Near the Retire ; admittance with passports from September 2 to July 24 ; very well classified, will interest few but military tourists. Topographical Museum. At the Ga- son (fietiro), seen with passports ; con- tains few objects of interest beyond the models and relievo plans of the Royal Palace, as designed by Jubarra, and others of Yalladolid, Escorial, Aran- juez, etc. 270 MADRID PICTURE - GALLERY. Naval Museum. Plaza de los Minis- terios, 7 ; seen on Tuesdays and Fridays, except when it rains, from 10 till 3 P.M., with permission of Senor Direc- tor ; a good idea can be gathered from the models of former ship-building in Spain. Observe the caravals of Co- lumbus's time, and some interesting relics of celebrated navigators and sea- men. Museo of Natural History. Calle Alcald, No. 11, second floor, with pass- port daily, except on holidays, from 10 to 2 P.M. The building was formerly used as a custom-house, and was built by Sabatini for Charles III., 1769. It is massive, large, and with a noble fa9ade; the finance department is on the first floor. The zoological collection is incomplete ; observe, nevertheless, a unique fossil animal, the megatherium, found in 1789 near the river Lujan, 13 leagues from Buenos Ayres ; it is the largest of its kind, and very well pre- served ; there is another one, smaller, found more recently near Madrid. Though rather out of place here, there are also two large bulls, heroes of the arena, and called Senorito and Cara- melo. In one of the rooms is the skeleton of a very gallant French drummer, at whose feet, in lieu of other trophies, is placed a bottle which con- tains the mercury that issued from his bones, a striking commentary de bello GALLICO. The mineralogical depart- ment is exceedingly rich, and deserves from connoisseurs a very close exami- nation. The Spanish marbles and rnetals, etc., exhibited here testify sufficiently that the riches of Spain, concealed and buried underground, would pay tenfold for all that lies on its surface. The great object of attrac- tion is, however, a large loadstone (piedra iman) weighing six pounds and supporting sixty. The rooms contain- ing South American, Indian, and Chinese curiosities, are also worth a visit. Koyal Picture -Gallery (Eeal Museo de Pinturas}. It is situated on the Prado ; open during summer from 9 A.M. to 4 P.M. ; during winter, 10 A.M. to 3 P.M. Mondays, open from 1 P.M. Admission free on Sundays, from 10 to 3 in winter, 8 to 1 in summer ; upon ordinary days a fee of 50 centimes for the benefit of the Poor Asylum at Prado. N.B. It is closed on rainy days. The porter is very civil, and speaks French. To make copies, apply to Sr. Director (Sr. D. Federico Madrazo), Calle de la Greda No. 22, or to the Secretary, Sr. San Gil de Villanueva. State the name of picture, its number, etc. Copies of the same size as the originals are allowed. Pictures cannot be taken down or removed. There are several good copyists, and the charges are moderate. The director is an able painter, one of the best now in Spain. He is, besides, a most gentlemanly and obliging individual. A catalogue in two vols., with an abridgment in one vol., price 4 pes., by Don Pedro Madrazo, may be purchased at the door. From either of these works a vast amount of useful information will be gained. The edifice is large, not wanting in majesty and grandeur, but too low for its length. It was the work of Juan de Villanueva, and was built in 1785 for Charles III., who intended it for a Museum of Natural History and an Academy of Sciences. It was com- pleted in the reign of Charles IV., but remained unused save at the time of the French occupation, when it was con- verted into a barrack. Ferdinand VII. , at the request of his queen, Isabel de Braganza, who cultivated painting, caused it to be repaired and fitted up for a picture-gallery, and in Nov. 1819 MADRID PICTURE GALLERY. X tn 2 u -J OESCANSO (PORTRAITS) '2 ROTUNDA FRENCH & G t RM AN of, ROTUNDA OR oYESTIBULEo J~ ~L PUBLIC ENTRANC'E A.&. C. Black. Eaioburgl. a T. X CO w p MADRID PICTURE - GALLERY. 271 three saloons were thrown open to the public, which contained 311 Spanish pictures. In 1830 the Flemish, Dutch, Italian, French, and German schools were completed. The lights are gener- ally good. On the catalogue, the initials C. L., affixed to several pictures, denote those which have been litho- graphed ; and C. N. stand for * Cal- cografia Nacional. ' Prints by the first process may be purchased at the Museo itself, and belong to a collection begun in 1826 by S. D. Jose Madrazo; they may be also purchased at Calcografia Nacional (office in Calle de Carretas). There are small photographs of the most celebrated pictures to be had at Laurent's, No. 39 Carrera SanGeronimo, who had leave to take them down and place them in the best light for photo- graphing. This gallery is considered the finest in the world, but it is rather a collec- tion of splendid gems than a complete chronological series of schools. It is wanting in examples of the early Italian, and of the German and French masters, and several of the Yalencian and Sevil- lian schools are scantily, if at all, re- presented ; but it is exceedingly rich in the productions of some great mas- ters, and few galleries can boast of pos- sessing, like this one, 62 Rubens', 53 Teniers, 10 Raphaels, 46 Murillos, 64 Valazquez', 22 Van Dycks, 43 Titians, 34 Tintorettos, 25 Yeroneses, 54 Breu- ghels, 23 Snyders, 19 Poussins, 10 Wouvermans, 55 Giordanos, 58 Riberas, 10 Claudes, etc. The authenticity, es- pecially of the most important, is doubtless, as they proceeded from the palaces of Madrid, Escorial, El Pardo, La Granja, for which most were painted expressly, and the inventories of which designate them with full particulars. They number upwards of 2000, and are the property of the crown. The re- pairs (restauraciones) have been made with care and intelligence, saving a few exceptions, and most of the principal pictures have been spared, especially Velazquez's. According to the new arrangements, the best Spanish and Italian pictures are now placed in the long central saloon, and a few of the most remarkable masterpieces have been collected in a special circular room, called Salon de Isabel II., somewhat like the Salon Carre of the Louvre, the Tribuna of Florence, and that of Bo- logna. The four lateral halls contain : the two nearest the entrance, that on the right Spanish masters, that on the left, those of Italy; the two farthest consist of Flemish and Dutch pictures. The 2d Rotunda exhibits specimens of French and German masters. In the ground -floor is situated the reduced and unimportant collection of sculp- ture and antiques, besides some more inferior, but all valuable pictures, a few original drawings by old masters, etc. These, with the Bourbon portraits in the Descanso Sala, are the least im- portant portions of the gallery, but should not be passed by. In noticing the more remarkable pic- tures, we follow the order in which the traveller generally visits the gallery viz. 1. Central Long Room ; 2. Sala de Isabel II. ; 3. Dutch and Flemish schools ; 4. Spanish and Italian schools (lateral halls to entrance). For a con- cise idea of the chronological order of the Spanish masters, etc. , we refer our readers to General Information : Paint - j, Painters, and the list of books of reference to be obtained on the subject. N.B. The numbers and positions of the pictures undergo continual change. The following pages are intended rather as a companion than as an accurate guide to either place or numerical description. 272 MADRID PICTURE GALLERY. NUMERICAL INDEX, WITH REFERENCES TO THE PAGES WHERE THE PICTURES ARE DESCRIBED. NO. PAGE. NO. PAGE NO. PAGE. 23 280 848 ) 1305 284 39 67 279 283 854 855 274 1316 1322 283 281 135 282 859 282 1325 285 147 148 j- 2 8o 864 865 j-273 1328 284 285 153 207 236 284 272 282 866 867 868 282 1329 1330 Ia8x 259 260 261 292 322 323 356 j-279 280 283 280 284 869 871 872 878 880 886 887 284 }- J 335 1338 1398 1484 1486 1487 282 j-286 283 282 j-286 364 365 366 j-28o 277 888 897 956 '284 273 1504 1545 1558 285 [281 367 368 280 276 981 982 272 283 1561 1565 285 281 369 277 987 273 1566 370 276 989 1581 r 285 372 280 99 j. 272 1585 j 383 384 390 ) j- I TOGO 1004 ion [283 273 1586 1587 I 59 j-286 285 393 284 1032 s > 396 279 Io 33 JCQ2 j 398 281 '035 U 7 4 1604 410 ) 1036 r 1605 j 205 425 L_. 1044 j 1606 281 427 r 2 79 1055 276 1609 285 428 ) 1058 283 1610 286 450 [282 1059 1611 285 45 1 1060 r 2 75 1613 286 456 } 1061 283 1678 } 457 1062 275 1683 458 1066 276 1691 459 i 1067 274 1694 460 1068 275 *69S 1 462 466 1069 1078 276 ) 1720 1733 -285 47 1 1091 ^283 1738 527 '. 279 1092 j ^739 533 281 IO 95 ^ J 743 749 750 1097 1098 1099 U 7 6 1747 1752 1754 286 [-285 752 . IIOO )' 1818 282 753 r" 2 73 IIOI I 275 1832 1 755 758 IIIO 1116 [276 1834 1835 [-285 759 j II2O 282 1987 767 \ 1132 284 1988 -284 772 [2 2 "33 274 1989 281 773 2 7 2 "75 2040 i 775 1176 [284 2043 "284 787 ) 1245 S 2056 281 788 789 274 284 1274 1279 j- 285 2083 2084 ^284 847 1304 284 2124 etseq. -287 1. ftotunda, or Entrance Hall. There is little here to attract the visitor's attention. Around are placed indif- ferent paintings ; some good copies and Giordanos, not of the ' first water.' Observe, however, the following: No. 207. The capture of a fortified city by Ferdinand the Catholic, by Gior- dano. No. 767. Marquis of Spinola re- ceiving the keys of Breda, by Leonardo, not of much note. Wo. 787. An alle- gory by Mayno, of whom Lope de Yeja said : ' Juan Bautista Mayno a quien el arte debe aquella accion que las figuras mueve.' ('Laurel de Apolo.') The Duke of Olivares stands on the side of Philip I Y. Long Central Room. The first half, on entering, contains Spanish, and the second half Italian pictures. The first series are modern, and all the rest early Spanish and Italian. The less that is said about the 'Escuelas contemporaneas,' of which there are specimens here, the better. Wo. 775. Death of Yiriatus, by J. Madrazo ; all the others, by the academical Bayeu, Maella, Aparicio, etc., belong to the pseudo - classical French style of the First Empire. The studies by Goya for his large picture of the family of Charles IY. are clever. Goya's portrait by Lopez (No. 772) will interest those who admire this truly national and original genius, whose Picador, Dos de Mayo, and Massacre of Frenchmen by Spaniards, deserve attention. Ribera (Spagnoletto}. No. 989. Martyrdom of St. Bartholo- mew. * Powerful drawing and colour- ing.' 990. Holy Trinity. * Painted like Caravaggio ; ' ' exhibits great power, but is not a pleasing composition.' 981. The Magdalen. MADRID PICTURE-GALLERY. 273 950, etc. A series of scenes from the Lives of the Apostles. 1011. Profile head of a Sibyl. 987. Release of St. Peter from prison. Juan de Juanes. No. 749. St. Stephen preaching the Gospel. Very rich colouring ; very like Perugino. 750. Same subject. The saint, stand- ing in the synagogue, points to the vision painted above, exclaiming, * I see the heavens opening, and the Son of Man sitting at the right hand of God the Father ! ' The infuriated Jews are pouring anathemas upon the saint. 'The treatment and technical execution of these pictures is Italian in its character and very fine.' (Sir Ed. Head.) ' A truly splendid painting for the composition as well as colour- ing.' (Hoskins.) 755. The Lord's Supper. Considered by some as superior in many respects to the celebrated Cena of Da Vinci, but is more like Vasari's. It was re- painted in Paris by M. Bonnemaison, and is one of Juanes' masterpieces. 759. Ecce Homo. A gilt background ; on wood. A subject often treated by this master ; remarkably fine. 751. St. Stephen on his Way to Exe- cution. Another of the series of scenes from the Life and Martyrdom of this saint. (Nos. 749-753.) ' A hard but fine painting. The crowd mock- ing the saint, admirable for expression, draw- ing, and colouring. The figure of the saint, resigned and full of religion, is beyond praise ; his feet and hands most carefully painted, and his garments equal to the magic draperies of Paul Veronese.' (Hoskins.) ' Studies for such scenes must have been common in Spain ; many a Dominican might have sat for the Saul.' (Sir E. Head.) On wood. 753. Burial of St. Stephen. 'Coloured like Sebastiano del Piombo. ' The man dressed in black, and standing on the left, is said to be the painter. On wood. 758. Coronation of the Virgin ; oval ; on wood. Morales. 848. Mater Dolorosa. One of his best here ; inferior, according to Viardot, to the Circumcision. 847. Ecce Homo. An excellent ex- ample of his style. Murillo. 880. Conception. Estilo vaporoso. ' Very exquisite. ' Preferred by some to No. 878. 872. St. Anna Teaching the Virgin to read. * The child wants beauty, but the saint is admirable.' (Hoskins. ) ' The draperies are in imitation of Roe- las.' (Ford.) 864. Divino Pastor. A great favour- ite. An allegory of Christianity seated among the ruins of Paganism. It is a pendant to 865. St. John the Baptist. The two above paintings are charming examples of the ' Ninos de Murillo ; ' both belong to his third or vaporoso manner. 854. Holy Family. Commonly called ' del pajaro,' on account of the bird in the child's hand. * The head of the Virgin is very beautiful ; but the ex- pression of the child is purely human.' (S. E. Head.) * On ne peut voir une scene familiere mieux conc,ue .... plus de grace dans les attitudes ; plus d'energie dans la louche.' (Viardot.) A homely scene copied from an Andalusian cot- tage. Belongs to the first frio style, and has been repainted at Paris, especially the face of the Virgin and the dog. 878. Conception. It is difficult to say whether this painting is superior or not to that of the same subject, which was purchased at the sale of Marshal Soult's Gallery, now in the Louvre. Comte de Ris (Musee Royal de Madrid) prefers the latter, as pos- sessing more harmony of composition, more ideality, etc. It is a great favour- 274 MADRID PICTURE-GALLERY. ite with the public, and constantly copied. ' Innocence itself, and beautifully painted ; how rich and juicy the flesh, how full of pulp and throbbing life ! ' (Ford.) ' There is more of the ideal in this painting than is usually found in the works of Murillo. The style is more elevated.' (Hoskins.) It is less repainted than that at Paris. 867. Annunciation. 1 Jamais, si je ne 1'eusse vue, je n'aurais ima- gine" qu'avec les teintes d'une palette on put imiter a ce point 1'eclat d'une lueur miracu- leuse, et faire jaillir de la toile des rayons de lumiere. C'est le triomphe du coloriste.' (Viar- dot.) The Virgin's cheek is said to be repainted. Belongs to the va^oroso style. 868. Vision of St. Bernard. The figures are of a high character. ' This again shows how closely Murillo ob- served Roelas. The draperies of the saint have been repainted ; but his head is fine, and the sentiments of gratitude and veneration are admirably expressed. The concealing the feet of the Virgin gives her figure too much height.' (Ford.) 869. Vision of San Ildefonso. The Virgin is giving the casulla (chasuble) to the saint, who was Archbishop of Toledo, and a zealous advocate of the dogma of the Immaculate Conception. The woman on the right holding a candle is probably the portrait of the ' divota de la Virgen ' who ordered this painting. 886. The child Christ sleeping upon the cross. 855. Rebecca at the Well. Belongs to the second or calido style ; somewhat hard ; bears traces of the influence of Ribera's manner. 'Les quatre femmes placees aupres de la fontaine a droite, et vues en pleine lumiere, ont une e"tonnante vigueur.' (Count de Ris.) 887. Head of St. John the Baptist. 888. Head of S'fe. Paul. Sanchez Coello. 1032. A Portrait. Supposed to be that of the crazy son of Philip II., Don Carlos, the hero of Schiller's admirable drama. There is no expression of idiocy or deficient intellect, as S. E. Head justly remarks, but rather of a serious meditative mind, somewhat morose, and not unlike the habitual character of Philip II. 's countenance. 1033. Portrait of the Infanta Clara Eugenia, daughter of Philip II., and wife of the Archduke Albert. Observe the details of the dress, jewels, and general colouring. She was the fa- vourite child of Philip. 1035. A Portrait. Supposed to be that of a daughter of Philip II. 1036. A Portrait. Probably of a sister of Philip II. Mazo. 788. A View of Zaragoza. The figures are painted by Velazquez, who was his father-in-law. Tolar. 1044. Portrait of Murillo. Of very great interest therefore. Tobar was his best pupil, and his paintings have often been mistaken for those of his master. Zurlaran. 1133. The Infant Deity asleep. Very fine. Velazquez. 1067. Equestrian portrait of Isabelle de Bourbon, first wife of Philip IV. This picture has been repainted in many parts by Velazquez. The dress, though pleasing at first sight, loses of its value on closer examination. It was evidently not painted by him. The queen's fine old white horse is his, and in the bridle one can even see the parts which he was obliged to alter while painting the horse ; they are quite different from the upper part of the same, where the design of the embroi- dery is done in a much more elaborate and stiff manner than that of the dress. The landscape is good and by the great master. The queen's horse is white, MADRID PICTURE-GALLERY. 275 and old, and ambles at a lady's pace ; the cold colour of the steed forms a fine contrast to the pleasing-looking queen's rich brown dress, brocaded with gold, and painted with the skill of Paul Veronese. 1068. Prince Don Baltasar Carlos riding a chestnut ' jaca. ' ' The child actually gallops out of the frame, and is the anticipation of Edwin Landseer and his young Highland chieftains on their wild ponies.' (Ford.) 'There is a wonderful spirit and life about this portrait. The landscape is rather too blue and green.' (Hoskins.) 1100. ^sop. Finely painted. 1101. An Old Man, called Menipo. 1060. The surrender of Breda (June 2, 1625) by the governor of that city, Justin of Nassau, to Spinola, whose announcement of that event was con- fined to the words, * Breda Tornado.' This masterpiece is commonly known as ' el cuadro de las lanzas,' from the number of the lances borne by the guards. The figure and expression of the figures is as wonderful as the tech- nical execution. There is the genuine courtesy of a high-bred soldier in the demeanour of the conqueror towards his fallen foe, and the whole composi- tion is admirable/ (Sir E. Head.) * Quelle harmonic ! quelle vigueur dans les premiers plans ! quelle degradation dans le paysage ! ' (De Ris.) 'Per- haps the finest picture of Velazquez ; never were knights, soldiers, or national character better painted, or the heavy Fleming, the intellectual Italian, and the proud Spaniard more nicely marked, even to their boots and breeches ; the lances of the guards actually vibrate. Observe the contrast of the light blue delicate page with the dark iron-clad General Spinola.' (Ford.) Velazquez painted his own beautiful, manly head in the corner, with a plumed hat. In the background Breda appears in the distance. Compare this with the same subject by Leonardo, No. 767. There is the difference between genius and talent. 1059. (In Sala Isabel 2a) Vulcan's forge. Apollo, an intimate friend of Vulcan, good-naturedly hastens to in- form him of his wife's (Venus) repeated flirtations with Mars. Observe the expression of surprise and disgust on the god's countenance, and that of the blacksmiths, who suddenly stop their work, etc. The beauty of human form makes up for the want of divinity in the two gods. 1062. Las Meninas, literally the female minions or favourite attendants : the old Norman meynal, from meignee, family. ' And oft times him to solace Sir Mirthe commeth into this place, And eke with him commeth his meine.' CHAUCER, R. of the Rose. The scene represented in the picture takes place in the artist's studio, while he is painting Philip IV. and his queen, who are supposed to stand where the spectator should be, so as to be reflected in the glass ; otherwise the painter would only see the backs of his models, an error often committed (as by Goya, in 'The Family of Charles IV.), but which Velazquez was and could not be guilty of. The name this picture is generally known by has been given to it on account of the im- portant part which was assigned by the artist in it to the group formed by the 'mening,' who are endeavouring to amuse the Infanta Margarita, daughter of Philip IV. , who is standing in the foreground, and in the centre. 'The tone of colouring is sober and cool, perhaps too much so. (Sir E. Head.) 'A surprising piece of handling ; still he would gain, and indeed does gain, when he glazes his pictures.' (Wilkie.) When it was finished Velazquez showed it to his royal pation, and inquired if there was nothing wanting ? * One thing only,' answered Philip, and taking the MADRID PICTURE-GALLERY. palette from his hands, he painted on the breast of the painter represented on the picture the Cross of the Order of Santiago, the most dis- tinguished in Spain. On Giordano's arrival at the Court, Charles II. showed him this paint- ing : ' Senor,' exclaimed the artist rapturously, 'it is the gospel of art' (la. teologia. de la pintura.) 1095. A dwarf seated with a large book. 1098. Portrait known as 'El niiio de Vallecas. ' 1099. El Bobo de Coria. The booby type rendered to perfection, truly Botf/3a/>os, as heavy as an ox. 1097. A Dwarf. * Velazquez is Teniers on a large scale. ' (Wilkie. ) 1066. Philip IV. on Horseback. A magnificent portrait. It served as a model for the bronze statue, carved by Montanez and cast by Pietro Tacca ; now in Plaza de Oriente. ' The horse is alive, and knows its rider ; how everything tells upon the cool blue and green in the background !' (Ford.) ' Look on that equestrian portrait of his (Velazquez) royal friend, Philip IV. ; he has placed him amid a denuded landscape, limited by a boundless horizon, lighted up on all sides by the sun of Spain, without a shadow, without any chiaroscuro, or repoussoir, of any sort .... and yet, behold the life about it all ! ' (Viardot.) 1069. Portrait of the Conde Duque de Olivares. * Nothing can be finer than the effects produced by the chary use of gaudy colour in this picture, but no man was more sparing of colour ; he husbanded his whites and even yellows, which tell up like gold on his under- toned backgrounds, which always re- presented nature with the intervention of air.' (Ford.) The seat is awkwardly forward, and the horse seems too large to those not acquainted with the old Spanish breed. Olivares was Prime Minister and favourite privado of Philip IV. We have seen another portrait of Oli- vares at Dresden (Picture Gallery, No. 109), holding a paper, and superior to this one in some respects, also by Velazquez. This other half of the room is filled up with the best Italian pictures ; ab J ove principium. 1110. Landscape. A view of the Calle (Avenue) de la Reyna in the Gardens of Aranjuez. Wilkie re- marks : ' Velazquez is the only Spanish painter who seeins to have made an attempt in landscape : I have seen some of his, most original and daring. Titian seems to be his model, and although he lived before the time of Claude and Sal vat or Rosa, they were contempo- raries. (The former died 1682, the latter 1673, and Velazquez 1660.) He appears to have combined the breadth and picturesque effect for which those two great painters were so remarkable. ' This view, as well as that of the 'Fuente del Aranjuez,' is more likely to be by Mazo than by Velazquez. 1055. The Crucifixion is, in our humble opinion, one of the grandest conceptions in the world. Look at it once, and you will see it for ever after- wards. Oh that one might hear Ros- sini's Stabat Mater, whilst looking upon that sublime vision of Sorrow and Hope! 1116. Boar -hunt in the Pardo. A clever copy of the original, which was presented by Ferdinand VII. to Lord Cowley, and purchased by Government for 2200. (Lord Ashburton possesses one of a similar subject.) Raphael. 368. Visit of St. Elizabeth to the Virgin. Painted for one Marinus Bran- conius, and signed 'Raphael Vrbinas F.' It was taken to Paris during the Peninsular War, removed there from board to canvas, aprocess by which it has been saved from total ruin, but scarcely touched, though over varnished. 370. Holy Family, de la Rosa. Its authenticity has been doubted, but the best authorities assert it peremptorily. ' On y reconnait, des le moindre coup MADRID PICTURE-GALLERY. 277 d'ceil, 1'inimitable main du maitre.' (Viardot. ) What may have led to super- ficial suppositions is the roseate tint spread all over, and constituting a fa- deur, seldom met in that great master's pictures. The grouping, outlines, ex- pression, the drawing especially, all render this a magnificent work. c I be- lieve it to be Raphael's, because I know of no painter capable of producing such a masterpiece. ' (De Eis.) 366. Christ bearing the Cross, or El Pasmo de Sicilia. Proceeds from the convent of Santa Maria dello Spasimo (the Virgin's Trance, on the way to Mount Calvary), in Palermo, for which it was painted. It represents the mo- ment when Christ sinks under the weight of the cross ; Simon, the Cyrenian, re- lieving Him. Crowds of soldiers and people fill up the scene, which extends from the gates of Jerusalem to the sum- mit of Calvary, which is seen in the distance. ' And there followed Him a great company of people, and of women, which also bewailed and lamented him. But Jesus turning unto them said, Daughters of Jerusalem, weep not for me, but weep for yourselves, and for your children.' (St. Luke xxiii.) This picture is one of the finest in the world. Some place it next to the Trans- figuration. It is superior to it, says Viardot, because in the Spasimo there is unity of subject, in which the other lacks, and that it is free from the ana- chronisms so noticeable in the Trans- figuration. It is all Raphael's, for in this one even Giulio Romano had not the slightest part. The great master seems to have been pleased with the work, and signed it, which he seldom did. There is, besides, vigour in the expression ; all is more forcible ; the only inferiority lies perhaps in the colouring. Mr. Ford and others erroneously ascribe its brick- dusty, hard tone, to its being repainted at Paris and a second time at Madrid in 1845. The colouring, whatever its beauties and defects, is now such as Raphael laid on. It was sent to Paris in 1812, removed from boards to canvas by M. Bonnemaison, and thus saved from ruin, just as the Holy Family of the Louvre, etc. ; the other ruthless operation, which took place at Madrid, was limited, we believe, to varnishing. An excellent copy of the Spasimo, made by Juan Carreno (1614 1685), dating about 1650, and now in the third room of the Royal Academy of San Fernando, shows the identical brick-dusty, hard tone of the original, which was carefully copied. According to Va- sari, the female with outstretched arms repre- sents the Veronica ; and he adds that she is 'stretching out her hands to him, holding a napkin (or kerchief),' which latter is said by some to have been effaced in an injury during the adventurous journey that it had to undergo. The ship that was conveying it to Palermo was shipwrecked, and the box which contained it was found by some fishermen on the shores of the Gulf of Genoa, whence it was sent once more to Palermo, and finally to Spain. The female, said by Vasari to be intended for the Veronica, is considered to have been meant to represent no other but the mother of God ; and as to the supposed napkin,, there is no vestige left on the canvas that can authorise such a sup- position. As to its merits, it would be presump- tion to criticise, and tedious to repeat the raptures into which all lovers of the beautiful have fallen before this great dramatic scene. 369. (Now in Sala Isabel 2a.) Holy Family, called 'La Perla,' because Philip IV. , on beholding it for the first time, is said to have exclaimed, ' This is the pearl of my pictures ! ' Others assert that its name comes from a small oyster placed among the divine bambino's playthings. However this may be, Philip, a great connoisseur, purchased it with many other gems at the sale of the Crown property of Charles I. by the Puritans ; he paid for it 2000. It once belonged to the Dukes of Mantua, and was purchased by Charles I. It belongs to the transition, second manner of Raphael. It has been over-cleaned, and the colour has consequently lost 278 MADRID PICTURE-GALLERY. much of its depth. The background is purposely dark, and of a rich brown. It proceeds from the Escorial. Titian. 457. Charles Y. on horseback. 'The finest equestrian picture in the world ; it is more sublime and poetical than Velazquez, yet equally true to life.' (Ford). This well-known and cele- brated portrait, cited by Titian's bio- graphers, is one of his grandest histori- cal pages. He was sent several times toJAugsburg to paint the portrait of the emperor, and no statesman or historian ever guessed Charles's genius and char- acter like him. This picture has not suffered by restoration, very few bits having been retouched. It is as fine as ever. The suit of armour that served as a model is kept in the Armoria, No. 2308. He is represented here as he rode before his army at the battle of Muhlberg. 471. Allocution of Marques del Vasto to his troops. Belonged to collection of Charles I. of England. The colouring is beautiful ; restorations have injured it somewhat. Compare the expression with portrait of the Marquis by Titian at the Louvre (No. 470). Alfonso d'Avalos, Marchese del' Guasto, was a great patron of the poets and artists of his time (born 1502 ; died 1546). He commanded the army of Charles Y. in Italy, and lost the battle of Cerizola against Francis de Bourbon, Comte d'Enghien, April 14, 1544. 458. Danae.* *A sketch, but a perfect gem, and when seen from a cer- tain distance it is living flesh. ' (Ford). It was saved with a few other nudities from among the flames of an auto-da-fe, kindled expressly for the destruction by fire, a true ^imfication of mythological peccant pictures. * Formerly in another room, as well as the two following. 459. Woman on couch. A naked figure, with a youth playing an organ. 460. Woman on couch, ditto. The only difference between these two is that one has a lap-dog, and the other a winged boy ; an amour. They are very like the Yenuses in the Tribuna at Florence. 466. Prometheus. A colossal figure, a pendant to Sisyphus. Observe an imitation by Ribera, No. 1004, and note the differences of style. 456. Adam and Eve. Yery power- ful, but not pleasing. It was Rubens' favourite. When this Flemish master came to Madrid in 1628, to study the colouring of the Yenetian school, he admired this picture very especially, and made of it a very careful copy (No. 1613) for the Prince of Wales (Charles I.), whose admiration for Titian's works was so great that Philip I Y. made him a present of the Yenus del Pardo (Jupiter and Antiope), which Philip III. prized as the gem of his wonderful collection. 462. The Gloria, or Apotheosis of Charles Y. and Philip II. Above and next to the Holy Trinity stands the Yirgin ; to the right, Charles Y. and Philip II. , the former in the monk's frock, which bespeaks San Yuste and Humility; the latter, as well as the two Queens, in their regal robes. It is, according to some, the masterpiece of Titian, and had it not been cruelly repainted, might perhaps lay claim to the position. It dates about 1556, and was therefore painted when the artist was eighty years old ; but though the contrary is often asserted, genius, [ike wine, ripens with age, losing ;he acidity and rawness of youth, to acquire mellowness, strength, soul, aroma. The finest works of art and .etters are generally the last the set- ting suns of master minds. Observe everything here ; the 'general effect of light and colour ; the ensemble MADRID PICTURE-GALLERY. 279 of the groups ; the Noah and Moses ' more especially.' The colouring is superb. Charles V. ordered by will that it should be hung over his tomb. It was removed from Yuste to the Es- corial by order of Philip II. P. Veronese. 527. Christ disputing with the Doc- tors. * They found him in the temple sitting in the midst of the doctors, both in hearing them and asking them ques- tions ; and all that heard him were astonished at his understanding and answers. ' (Luke ii. ) 'Vaste et the"atrale composition, recherche et bon gou"t des ornemens, justesse, vivacite charme de la couleur ; noblesse, varie"te et ve"rite* des portraits.' (Viardot.) It is interest- ing to compare the cast of the countenances, dress, etc., of this with the same subject treated by Mr. Holman Hunt. Sebastian del Piomlo. 396. Christ in Hades. This magni- ficent painting, as well as the Holy Family at Naples, and the Resurrection of Lazarus in the National Gallery, London (No. 1), proceeds from the Ar- gerstein Collection. This is considered superior to the latter. The composi- tion has more life ; the dark tone is not so exaggerated, and the perspective so narrow and short. ' The colouring is powerful, without any de- fect, and worthy altogether of Giorgione.' (Viardot.) Guido Reni. 259. Madonna of the Chair. Pro- ceeds from the Escorial. It is one of his masterpieces in his best style, and before he fell into that invariable pale, fade mannerism, which, with a mono- tony of attitude, characterises his latter works. This is M. Yiardot's opinion, repeated (as usual with the pictures of this gallery) by Mr. Ford, and who has done little else than follow his criticism and translate his observations. 261. Santiago. The Tutelar of Spain. The old Spanish war-cry was ' Santiago y cierra Espana ! ' 260. St. Sebastian. ' They are both painted in the forcible style of Cara- vaggio, but with a keener sense of beauty and grace.' In these pictures 'he hovers between the Ribera style, though softened by the study of Cor- reggio and Murillo's calida manner.' (Yiardot.) A replica of that at the Louvre (No. 332), and purchased by Louis XIV. in 1670. There are several in different galleries, and one in that of the Infante Don Sebastian, at Madrid. Tintoretto. 425. Moses found. 428. La Gloria. It is the sketch of the painting which is seen in the council-room of the Doge's Palace at Yenice, and was brought from Italy by Yelazquez for Philip IY. ' L'on y trouve, comme dans le tableau, cette fougue impetueuse et irreflechie, cet entrainement, cette fievre qui fit ap- peler Tintoret Le Furieux. ' (Yiardot. ) There is a sketch of same, also by Tintoretto, at the Mocenigo Palace at Venice. It has some analogy with the Paradise at the Louvre (No. 351), erroneously considered by some as another sketch of the San Marco. Grand painting. 427. Judith and Holophernes. ' Yery grand and most effective.' 410. A Sea-fight. 'Great energy, life, and movement ; perhaps a little confused.' (Yiardot.) It has been re- painted. The subject is a metee between Turks and Venetians in the Archipelago ; the principal figure is that of a young female, for whose sake the fight is probably taking place. The colouring is beautiful, though it has lost of its transparency. F. Bassano. 39. The Adoration of the Kings. One of this painter's masterpieces. Brought here from the palace of the Escorial. 280 MADRID PICTURE-GALLERY. J. Bassano. 23. Noah's Ark. This painting was purchased by Titian in Italy, and sent to Spain by order of Charles V. Malombra. 292. The Council Room at Venice. The Doge is sitting in state, and the Senate is assembled for the reception of a foreign ambassador. All the figures are portraits. It has been till very lately ascribed to Tinto- retto, and was well worthy of him ; but, ac- cording to Ridolfi, it was painted by Pietro Malombra (1556-1618), and brought to Spain with several others by D. Alfonso La Cueva, Spanish ambassador at Venice. Domenichino. 147. St. Jerome in the Wilderness. Probably a pendant to the Last Com- munion of St. Jerome at the Vatican. 148. Sacrifice of Abraham. These with 149 are the three examples of this Bolognese painter in this gallery. The former is especially fine. Viardot as- serts that there is no painting of this master in Spain. Palma the Younger. 323. A mystic subject, being the Spiritual Betrothal of St. Catherine with the Infant Jesus. SALA DE ISABEL II. Raphael. 365. Virgin of the Fish, or Tobit and the Fish. ' La supreme expression de la noblesse et de la majeste.' (Viardot.) The mother of God is seated on a throne, holding the infant Deity in her arms. The divine Bambino, with a hand placed upon a book which St. Jerome is reading, turns towards Tobit, who is led by St. Raphael (the master's portrait probably) to the foot of the throne, before which he kneels. The subject is considered by some to repre- sent the admission of the Book of Tobit as a canonical book. It was written about two centuries B. c. ; the Rabbis do not hold it to have been divinely inspired, and Christians adopted it only in the beginning of the 16th century. St. Jerome, a prominent figure in the painting, translated it for the first time from Chaldaic into Latin. This picture dates 1514. Viardot is of opinion that it is one of the first examples of the master's third manner. It was painted for the church of St. Dominick at Naples. During an epidemic which affected the sight a chapel was built in that church, un- der the invocation of the Virgin, and specially used for prayers in behalf of those so afflicted. It was upon this occasion, and for this chapel, that Raphael was ordered the present picture (1515). Such is Vasari's explanation of the subject, whilst E. David gives the former one. It was sent to Paris about 1812, and removed from board to canvas, and is uninjured. It is, according to the best judges in the matter, the finest Madonna painting by Raphael, next to that * della Seggiola ' at the Pitti Palace. 367. Portrait of a Cardinal, sup- posed to be that of Cardinal Julio de Medici. ' Heureux ceux qui peuvent revivre ainsi apres trois cent cinquante ans !' (De Ris.) There is a semblance of life in those blue, serious, and scrutinising eyes, so full of intellect and Heaven ; a motion in the compressed lips ; blood that is seen circulating freely under the skin, so much air around it and individual iden- tity that are absolutely startling. Biography when written by such men as Velazquez, Raph- ael, Van Dyck, etc., is truly a resurrection This ' Cardinal ' ushers in a whole epoch of the human mind Italy in the i6th century. Observe also No. 372 (in the Long Room), another fine portrait, said to be that of Andrea Navagiero, author of a 'Viaggioin Spagna,' etc., and ambas- sador of Venice to Charles V. , but it is more likely that of Count de Castiglione, from its likeness to that of this patron of Raphael's at the Louvre, No. 383. A replica at the Doria Palace. 364. Holy Family. Bordering on miniature painting ; on wood, and therefore somewhat injured. Claims loudly for removal to canvas to avoid imminent ruin. Great finish in the figures ; dates 1507. MADRID PICTURE-GALLERY. 281 Sebast. del Piombo. 398. Christ bearing the Cross. Half- figures, from the Escorial, where it hung in the choir ; quite worthy of that Dante of painting ; a vision of saintly terror ; very grand, very awful. Andrea del JSarto. 383. Portrait of the Master's wife, the fair and frail Lucrezia del Fede ( !), for whose sake and caprices the painter, enamoured of form more than of soul, forgot and forgave everything, so that he might be allowed to gaze upon that beautiful creature. It was ill restored in 1833. All admirers of Alfred de Musset will remem- ber his drama ' Andre" del Sarto,' and the part this woman (' Je 1'aimais d'un amour indefinis- sable ! ') plays in it. 384. Holy Family. There are two replicas in this gallery, though the No. 390 has been ascribed to his pupil Andrea Squazzella. There is another, we believe, in M. Bee's collection at Marseilles. P. Veronese. 533. Moses Found. 'Fin et char- mant bijou, qui reunit un ingenieux arrangement et un dessin correct (?) a la plus exquise delicatesse du pinceau. ' (Viardot.) 'A charming gay cabinet picture, ascribed by some to Tintoretto. ' Claude de Lorraine. 1989. Sunset. A landscape, with an anchorite on the foreground. The figure is by Francesco Allegrini da Gubbio ; wild scenery, somewhat dark. It truly is ' a place of prayer, and a sort of prison, wherein I chained my miserable body,' as St. Jerome describes one of those secluded rocky retreats of the earliest solitude-seeking Christians. Almost all the Claudes here are pendants, and of value. N. Poussin. 2056. A Landscape. On the fore- ground, to left, Diana asleep, watched by a satyr ; on the right an Amour, or messenger of Love, is busy picking flowers. (These two paintings, with most of the Claudes and the Poussins, are now in Rotunda 2.) Rembrandt. 1544. Queen Arthemisa about to swallow the ashes of her husband. Superb ; a masterpiece of this king of chiaroscuro. The pseudo-oriental cos- tume is beautifully painted. It is signed, '1634 Rembrandt f.' It is thought to represent the wife of the artist, Saskia Van Uylemburg, whom he married June 22, 1634. Rubens. 1558. The Brazen Serpent. It is signed, a very exceptional case with this painter. It must be looked upon as one of his masterpieces. 'And Moses made a serpent of brass and put it upon a pole, and it came to pass that if a serpent had bitten any man, when he beheld the serpent of brass he lived ' (Numb. xxi. 6-9). It is either the original or a superior replica to that of same subject and master in the National Gallery, No. 59. 1606. Portrait of Maria de Medici. Very fine ; a sketch from a large paint- ing in the gallery of Luxembourg. 1565. St. George and the Dragon. Van Dyck. 1330. The Earl of Bristol and the Painter. The former, to the right, dressed in white ; to the left, the painter, dressed in black. Compare the effect, not the means employed, produced by portraits by Velazquez, and those by Van Dyck. 1322. The Countess of Oxford. 'Un des plus prodigieux et des plus ravis- sants de son ceuvre entiere.' (Viardot.) In a corner of the painting is the in- scription, ' The Covntes of Oxford A. Van Dyck, 1638.' 3331. Portrait of Liberti, an Ant- 282 MADRID PICTURE-GALLERY. werp organist. Probably dates ten years before lie painted that of the Countess of Oxford, and was executed during his residence at Antwerp. 1335. The Treachery of Judas. May be considered his masterpiece. The head of Christ is magnificent ; ex- pressive of deep contempt and divine resignation. The colouring, effect of torchlight, etc., are all wonderful. In the composition, hypercritics find some confusion, and blame the threefold action. Van-der- Veyden. (Beginning century ; born at Brussels.) 1818. Descent from the Cross. Wood or gilt background ; very fine indeed. Correggw. 135. Holy Family. The authenticity of this picture has been doubted, but with less reason than that of same master, No. 133. Titian. 236. A mystic subject. An exvoto, representing St. Brigit offering flowers to the Infant Deity, placed in His mother's arms, whilst Hulfus, her husband, stands by her side, clad in armour. The very best judges all say it is a Titian, and one of his master- pieces. The able director, Sr. Madrazo, is convinced, among others, that this magnificent picture is by him, and not by Giorgione, to whom it has been hitherto ascribed and put down in the catalogue. 451. Offering to Fecundity. 'Of marvellous, incredible execution ; far outstrips Albano, the poet of secrets and love. This was the picture which, when at Rome, in the Ludovici Palace, was studied and so often copied by Poussin, and contributed to improve his colouring, somewhat cold and life- less at that time, teaching him more- over how to paint those playful children which threw such charm over several of his compositions, especially on that of the Bacchanal. ' ( Yiardot. ) 450. A Bacchanal. In the foreground the fair Ariadne is asleep, having been abandoned in the Isle of Naxos by the faithless Theseus. Dances, copious libations, and Teniers-like detail, fill up the picture. On a height, Silenus asleep, and in the distance the ship bearing Theseus is seen sailing away. It is one of this master's finest pictures. Moro. (Anth. Moor ; born at Utrecht, 1512.) 1484. Queen Mary of England, the wife of Philip II. The artist was sent to England to take the likeness of Bloody Mary for Philip II. For that of the queen he received 100 and a gold ring, besides his salary of 100. The full-length portraits at Woburn, in the possession of the Duke of Bedford, seem likely to be originals, from which the present half- length portrait would be a copy (may be by Moor himself). Waagen, however, doubts their genuineness. There are portraits of Mary by Moor at Hampton Court and at Castle Howard. Zurbaran. 1120. St. Peter Nolasco asleep. An angel in a vision points to him the Heavenly Jerusalem. Yery fine and a masterpiece of the 'Spanish Cara- vaggio.' Murillo. 866. The Infant Saviour giving to drink out of a shell to St. John, a Shepherd-boy. Known as ' Los Mfios de la Concha/ An exquisite painting (removed to room on right of entrance). 859. Adoration of Shepherds. 'Per- fect. Observe the contrast of the divine group of Jesus and His mother to the strictly human one of the shepherds led by an angel near the cradle. In MADRID PICTURE-GALLERY. 283 the representation of these clods, of their sheepskins, of their dogs, the artist displays a power and truth never equalled before. ' (Viardot. ) Velazquez. 1058. The Drunkards ('Los Borra- chos'). 'One of the master's finest works. The humour and feeling are only surpassed by the execution, which, in details, such as the bowl of wine, is most marvellous. At the same time, the whole picture has the force and breadth of Caravaggio or Ribera. ' (Sir E. Head.) Before this masterpiece, Wilkie, who studied Velazquez very especially, used to sit for hours in silent and every day more intense admiration. For everything is perfect in this mock coronation of a drinker by his drunken comrades grouping, expression, col- ouring, intention, as the Spaniards say. We know only two beings worthy of appre- ciating all the merit of the lanzas and the borrachos, and both personify two sides of the Spanish national character Don Quixote, whose eyes on seeing the former would flash with pride and martial ardour, and Sancho Panza, whose lips would smack before the latter a group, and scene, and art after his own heart. 1092. Portrait ; supposed to be that of a jester in the reign of Philip IV. 1091. Portrait of Montafies. 1078. The Infanta Margarita Maria of Austria, daughter of Philip IV., the same which we see in the Meninas. 1061. 'Las Hilanderas' (now in room on right of entrance-hall) . Whilst in the foreground several women are spinning, and otherwise employed in preparing materials for making tapestry, in the background a specimen of the manufacture is being shown to ladies. The subject of the tapestry is the ' Rape of Europa,' from the painting by Titian, once in Senor de Jose Madrazo's valu- able collection, from which it has recently passed to Marquis de Sala- manca's gallery. It was copied by Rubens for Charles I. of England, when only Prince of Wales, and is now in this gallery, No. 1614. It is the triumph of chiaroscuro, and well might Moratin say of that true //&0/0grapher, ' pinta el aire,' he paints the very air ! Ribera. 982. Jacob's Ladder. One of his masterpieces ; in his transition manner, hovering between Caravaggio and Cor- reggio. The sombre, fiery, powerful genius of that true painter of the In- quisition and anatomists, is seen here in all its character. The monk at the foot of the ladder is a semi-bandido, Spanish mendicant. The type is com- mon, but how forcible the execution ! how wild the scenery ! what effects of light on the whole ! A. Durer. 1316. Portrait of himself, signed 1498, Albrecht Diirer and his mono- gram, and the words * Diess malt ich nach meine Gestalt ; ich war sechs und zwanzig jar alt,' and was, therefore, twenty-six when it was painted. It has been engraved by him. Bronzino. (Angelo Allari.) 67. A portrait. Holbein. 1398. A portrait, and truly one of 'Un hombre d una nariz pegado,' as Quevedo has it. It is excellent. Palma the Elder. (Beginning of 16th century. ) 322. Adoration of Shepherds. Boom on right of Entrance Hall. Ribera. 1004. Prometheus. It is JEschylus translated on canvas by a Spanish In- quisitor. Never was torture, immortale secur, physical pain, represented with that energy, that furia of colour, and boldness of outlines. 1000. San Roque and his Dog. 284 MADRID PICTURE-GALLERY. Murillo. 871. Conversion of St. Paul. The thigh of the Apostle and the horse have been repainted. 897. Portrait of Father Cabanillas, a monk. Mazo. 789. Portrait of a captain in the reign of Philip IV. Zurlaran. 1132. Sta. Casilda. Boom on left of Entrance Hall. Salvator Rosa. 356. View of the Bay and City of Salerno. 'Un pen de paleur dans le ton general.' (Viardot.) The details of sea, land, and sky, are nevertheless handled with the usual mastery of that painter. Sassqferrato. 393. The Infant Deity asleep in His mother's arms. Kotunda (French and German Schools).* N. Poussin. 2043. Mount Parnassus. On the foreground the Nymph Castalia and her urn : ' Drink deep, or taste not the Cas- talian spring ! ' In the distance rises the steep hill, on which Apollo stands, welcoming a poet whom Thalia and Calliope are crowning with laurel. On one side Dante, Petrarca, Ariosto, and other Italian poets are grouped ; on the other the classics, Homer ('Questi e Omero, poeta sovrano '), Virgil, Horace, etc., thus placing on a parallel the great ages of Pagan and Christian Italy. 2040. A landscape, one of his best here. * The passilloS) or corridors, round the Ro- tunda are filled with comparatively indifferent pictures. The Flemish and Dutch pictures here are of very great importance, and most numerous. Their genuineness is undoubted ; and they have all escaped over - varnish, re- painting, and other such-like handling. Gaspar Dughet. 153. A very fine landscape, with cas- cades, view of a city, and on the fore- ground the Magdalene, etc. Claude de Lorraine. 1987. A Landscape, the Rising Sun ; subject, the female Roman Saint, Paula, embarking for the Holy Land, very fine ; the figures by Jacques Courtois. 1988. A Landscape, Setting Sun ; subject, Tobit and the Angel. The figures by J. Courtois. These two, with the Moses Found, and a View of the Coliseum, were painted for the King of Spain, and the sketches were preserved by the master and collected carefully. This collection passed from the Flink collec- tion at Rotterdam, into that of Devonshire House, and was engraved in London by Earlom, in 1777. The Claudes here are all undefiled. Watteau. 2083. Une Fete Champetre. It is the original, we believe, of the cele- brated ' Mariee de Village. ' 2084. A Fountain in the Pare de St. Cloud. Lucas Cranach. 1304 and 1305. Hunting the Deer. The stout, Falstaff-looking Elector of Saxony, Frederick III., is a prominent feature in the scene. In the distance on a height rises the old ducal palace of Wittemberg. Jerome Bosch (1450-1518). 1175, 1176, etc. Adoration of the Magi, and Temptations of St. Anthony (four pictures, now in Salones de Al- fonso XII.) Koom on the right of the French and German Schools (Flemish and Dutch Schools). Van DycJc. 1327. Portrait of Henry, Count de Berg. MADRID PICTURE-GALLERY. 285 1329. A Cavalier. All excellent. Snyder. 1683. JEsop's Fable of the Lion and the Mouse (so admirably translated by La Fontaine). 1691. Quarrelsome fowls. Admirable. Breughel. 1274, 1279. Landscapes, with a mar- keting and junketing. 1245. Landscape (with St. Eustace by Rubens). Wouvermans. 1832. Sportsmen fording a River. Very fine. 1834. Departure from an Inn. 1835. Halt at a Country Inn. Eulens. 1566. Rudolph of Hapsburg lends his Horse to a Priest, who is bearing the Host. Rudolph's head and attitude are admirable. The landscape is by Wildens. 1611. The Garden of Love. 'An exquisite composition, remarkable, as much for the delicacy and warmth of the touch, as for its details.' (V.) A smaller replica at the Dresden Gallery, No. 389, and probably the sketch of this one. The lady accompanied by a cavalier, on the left and on the foreground, is the portrait of Helene Fourment, the painter's second wife ; the types belong to the 'fat, fair, and forty* family, especially patronised by George IV. 1609. Portrait of Thomas Morus. Superb. 1585. Ceres and Pomona. 1561. Holy Family. There is a copy of this picture in our National Gallery. Teniers. 1752. A Landscape. A Gipsy Scene. 1733. La Graciosa Fregatriz (bur- nisher, scrubber, as in the celebrated verse, ' en una de fregar cayo caldera '). One of his best here. 1754. Temptations of St. Anthony. A favourite subject with this painter, and with the usual detail of an egg out of which a pullet's head is peeping ; but his Kermesses are his triumph. Observe No. 1720 and his monkeys, los monos de Teniers, Nos. 1738, 1739, and 1743. (Notice all these Temptations of St. Anthony, and scenes from rustic life. They are all finely painted, however repulsive they may be in some respects.) Snyder. 1678-94, and 95. Very fine Dog and Game Subjects. P. Neefs. 1504, etc. Several Gothic Church Interiors. Caviare perhaps to the general, but very fine works. Van Dyck. 1328. Portrait of a Musician. 1325. Charles I. on Horseback. A replica in reduced proportions of that at Hampton Court. Flemish and Dutch. Boom to Left. fiubens. 16 04-5. Portraits of Archduke Albert and his wife Isabel. The landscape in both is by Breughel. 1581. Banquet of Tereus. Very powerful. 1590. The Judgment of Paris. A fine study of flesh painting. 1610. Portrait of a French Princess ; probably a replica of that at the Louvre, of Elizabeth, daughter of Marie de Medici, who was married to Philip IV. (1615). Very fine. 1592. Diana and Calisto. Splendid colouring. 1613. Adam and Eve. Copied from Titian for Charles I. of England. (See No. 456 in the long gallery). 1586. Nymphs and Satyrs. 286 MADRID -PICTURE-GALLERY. 1587. Ditto. Both very fine. 1591. The Three Graces. The models for these, and many of his nymphs and other female subjects, were not Flemish, as is often thought, but three Italians a mother and her two daughters, named Capaio, who lived in Paris, Rue du Verbois. Such at least is Rubens' own statement, in a letter published in the ' Archives de 1'Art Franc, ais.' D. Teniers. 1747. The painter showing to the Archduke Leopold William the picture gallery which he had formed at his order. The master signed * Pintor de la Camera (for Camara) de S.'A. S.' (Su Alteza Serenisima). It is curious and important, as the pictures hung on the wall are all well known, and painted in the style of the different masters. Dana'e, Calixtus, etc., by Titian and others, are here represented. Van Dyck. 1336. Diana and Endymion. 1338. A fine portrait of the Marquesa de Leganes (Polixena Spinola), whose touching letters to the King, craving his royal mercy in favour of her hus- band in exile, we have had occasion to admire in a large collection of decrees, letters, etc., to and from Philip IV., which the British Museum acquired from us in 1862. Antonio Moro. 1486. Full-length portrait of Maria, wife of Maximilian II., daughter of Charles V. 1487. Maximilian II. when young. (Observe all the admirable portraits by Moro, 1483-1495.) The Sala de Descanso contains few paintings of any great merit. Observe the two fine portraits of Charles IV. and his Queen Maria Louisa (riding astride as was then the fashion) by Goya that racy, truly national, original painter of modern Spain. There are several portraits of the royal family. Some good copies, etc. Notice also, as a key to many Cosas de Espana, a series of portraits of the Bourbon dynasty, beginning with Philip V. and his family, painted by Vanloo. The names of the personages painted, and artists, are given on each picture. The ceiling, by Don Vicente Lopez, has been put up lately. An especial room has been recently fitted up for a fine collection of jewels, cameos, and cinque- cento plate, which deserves a visit. Most of the jewels belonged to Philip V. , and were part of his French inheritance. Observe all the examples of goldsmiths' work by B. Cellini, the Becerriles, Arfes, etc. A fine mosaic table has been placed in the middle of the long central room upstairs, a present from Pope Pius V. to Philip II. after the battle of Lepanto. The jewelled and enamelled works by B. Cellini and others are now placed in the Long Gallery, near the Sala de Isabel. 2d. On one stand are the crystals ; on the other, the jewelled pieces. THE GALLERY OF SCULPTURE contains few and no remarkable speci- mens of either national or antique sculpture. Castor and Pollux, a bronze head of an Antonius, a Faun and Kid, a Venus Capitoline, Death of Alex- ander, among the antiques ; and, by Pompeyo Leoni of Arrezzo, the statues of Charles V., Philip II., Isabella wife of Charles V., are very remarkable. The Muses and other sculpture from the collection of Queen Christine of Sweden, were removed here from La Granja. We may further mention a marble altar, with bassi-relievi, repre- MADRID PICTURE-GALLERY. 287 senting Bacchanalians, the apotheosis of Claude, a work of the time of Nero, and a present from Cardinal Colonna to Philip IV., besides several Etruscan vases, busts, etc. MINOR GALLERIES. A room on the upper floor, called the 'Goya Room/ contains paintings by this artist for the Royal Tapestry Manufactory of Madrid, etc. See also on the basement floor a room devoted to the contemporary Spanish School. Pictures removed to the Museo from the suppressed Museo National de la Trinidad : No. 2124. Grecco. Crucifixion. Is supposed to have belonged to the In- quisition Church at Toledo. No. 2125. G. F. Penni (II Fattore). A very fine copy of Raphael's Trans- figuration ; ordered by Pope Clement VII. He differs in some points from the original composition. Nos. 2126 to 2133. Tiepolo 18th century. Scenes from the Passion of Our Lord. From Convent of S. Felipe Neri. Nos. 2139 to 2148. Berruguete (a Spanish painter of end of 15th cent.). Nine pictures representing scenes from the annals of the order of St. Dominick ; ordered by the celebrated Inquisitor Torquemada. From Convent of St. Thomas at Avila curious. No. 2163. Goya His own portrait. 2166. An exorcised ' creepy ' realism. No. 2184. The catholic kings pray- ing to the Blessed Virgin and Child. Behind King Ferdinand is the Inquisi- tor Torquemada. Painted about 1491. No. 2188. Triumph of the Church over the Synagogue. Ascribed to Jan Van Eyck by Cavalcaselle, and to H. Van Eyck by Passavant. No. 2189. R. Van der Weyden, the Crucifixion. A very fine and most authentic original. From Convent de los Angeles at Madrid. N.B. These last are mostly in the Salones de Alfonso XII. in the base- ment floor. Academia de San Fernando (in Calle de Alcala). Founded, 1744, by Philip V. The contents are generally of little importance, and consist mostly of pic- tures by R.ASs, but there are a few exceptions. Bias del Prado. A fine * Fundacion* of N. S. de Loreto. Ribera. St. Jerome. Very power- fully painted. Zurlaran. Four Monks. Some- what dark ; the cast of the draperies admirable. Murillo. The celebrated Tinoso, which represents St. Elizabeth, Queen of Hungary, healing the lepers. ' Nothing can be conceived more beautiful and more dignified than the figure of St. Elizabeth herself, and these qualities in her figure are brought out in full force by the contrast with the diseased beg- gars grouped round her, and painted with such wonderful truth as to be almost disgusting. ' (Head. ) It was painted by Murillo for the Hospital de la Caridad at Seville, and for it, together with the San Juan de Dios, the sum of 16,840r. was paid. It was carried to Paris by Marshal Soult, and subsequently given back to government, who refused to return it to the hospital at Seville, to which it really belongs. It was very ably copied a few years back by Queen Isabel. Observe also very especially the two medios puntos, or semicircular paint- ings, by Murillo, representing two epi- sodes of the legendary dream of the Roman Patrician, who founded in con- sequence the church of Sta. Maria Maggiore, at Rome. They are in the 288 MADRID PRIVATE PICTURE-GALLERIES. vaporoso, or third manner, and though much cleaned and painted over dis- figured, too, by the French additions at the angles may still be regarded as among Murillo's finest examples. The better of the two is the Dream, with its admirable setting forth of the idea of sleep, and all its exquisitely painted detail. The patrician and his wife are represented as thrown into a deep sleep, while engaged in some pious exercise. The Virgin then appears, and points out to the dreamer where he is to build the future church. In the companion picture, which represents the narrating of the Vision to the Pope, the distant procession should be noted. These paintings were carried off to Paris by Soult, from the church of Santa Maria la Blanca at Sevilla, and brought back along with the still finer ' El Tinoso, ' already described. There may be noticed here, too, in passing, a very fine copy of Raphael's * Spasimo di Sicilia ; ' a characteristic Piedad by Morales ; a Crucifixion by Alonso Cano, and a Susanna by Rubens. Perhaps better worth study than any of these are several charming Goyas a Procession, a Bull-fight, a Maja, etc., and the recumbent figure supposed to have been the Duchess of Alba. The position of many of these paint- ings is continually altered ; but all is in such small compass that they may be readily singled out. PRIVATE GALLERIES. Besides the collections above noticed, several private galleries, belonging to grandees, should be visited if time permits. The finest of all, that of the late Infante de Sebastian, has been dis- persed (a great .portion of it may be seen at Pau), but there are others of very fair importance. Among them we may name Gallery of Duke de Medina-Cell. By Martin Schon, the Siege of Bethulia by Holophernes. Portrait of the Duke of Lerma by Pantoja de la Cruz. A good portrait of Charles V. By Pierino del Vaga, God and His Angels. Five Landscapes by Salvator Rosa; five others by Poussin. An excellent Por- trait by Velazquez, and another by Mu~ rillo. Gallery of Senor Carderera. The sketch of the Annunciation of Veronese by that master, sent by him to Philip II. Sketches of heads for the 'Susana' at the Royal Museo, by same. A very fine Porbus Portrait of Maria de Medici. By Mola (1612-68), the Vision of St. Bruno, a replica at the Louvre, No. 272. Abraham and the Three Angels, by Tiepolo, etc. Besides these, a very com- plete and valuable collection of prints, sketches, historical portraits, etc. Gallery of Duke de Uceda. By Mu- rillo, a superb Infant Deity asleep on the Cross, and a Sta. Rosalia by same. A glorious portrait of Blind Altoviti, by Andrea del Sarto ; two curious paint- ings found at Pompeii, etc. Gallery of Duke Alba. A. Holy Family, by Titian ; a Portrait, by same. A Holy Family, by P. Perugino ; a Portrait of the great Duke of Alba ; and a Portrait, by Murillo t of his son. Gallery of Duke de Osuna. Portrait of Alonso Cano, by himself. Portrait of More to, by Murillo. A Female Portrait, by A. del Sarto. A Virgin, by Hemmeling (?). Gallery of Duke de Pastrana. Series of Rubens, painted for tapestry, and representing Meleager's Chase, and a sketch by same of the Garden of Love, in Museo Real. Gallery of Marque's de Villafranca. A series of pictures representing scenes from the history of the Moncada Family, by Teniers ; and a Van Dyck. Gallery of Duke de Sessa. Several MADRID LIBRA RIES. 289 magnificent Snyders, with heads by Rubens, of great size and merit. Museum of Antiquity. Museo Argue- ologico. Calle de Embajadores, in the gardens and small palace of the Casino de la Reina. It is a sort of imitation of the Hotel de Cluny of Paris. The large and very important collection of coins and medals formerly at the National Library has been removed here, and is worth inspection. See, also, the very unique series of 600 specimens of ancient Peruvian pottery found in the tombs of the Tucas in 1788, by the Bishop of Trujillo ; and the rich collection of Roman antiquities once belonging to Marquis de Sala- manca, and collected in Italy during excavations made for the construction of the Roman railroads. The Museo consists chiefly of rooms. 1st room contains principally Moorish and Hispano-Moresque antiquity. 2d room. A series of beautifully em- broidered tapestries, the gift of the celebrated Conde-Duque de Olivares to a convent at Madrid ; two curious astrolabes, one made for Philip II., the other is considered the earliest of its kind which exists, and is dated 1067 ; skilfully carved choir -stalls from the Convent of El Paular, at Segovia, 16th cent. ; some curious old Spanish paint- ings on panel, etc. 3d room. Tombs and sarcophagi. Notice the statue of Don Pedro el Cruel, the only one of this monarch. It was brought from his sepulchre at Santo Domingo el Real. 4th room. Interesting majolica; Buen Retiro biscuit porcelain ; Talavera and Alcora pottery. 5th room. Dres- den and Sevres porcelain, from the palace ; fine bronzes of 16th cent. ; a very beautiful set of Wedgewood jasper- ware, which formed part of the cargo of a ship seized during the Peninsular War. 6th room. Some interesting ivory diptychs and caskets ; Visigothic and Arabic ornaments found near Toledo and in Andalusia ; a fine ivory cross of llth cent, and a richly orna- mented gun of 17th cent. Crossing the garden the visitor may go to the building containing the Roman anti- quities, which are arranged in seven rooms. They are very well arranged, and the coins and medals are of the highest interest. Libraries. National, 4 Calle de la Biblioteca ; admission free. It contains about 250,000 volumes, and is very rich in works of ancient Spanish litera- ture. There is a fine collection of coins and medals, numbering upwards of 150,000, which was begun with the celebrated numismatic collection of the Abbe Rothlen, of Orleans. They illustrate the early history of Roman, Gothic, and Moorish Spain. There is also a small collection of antiquities. To see these, as well as to study the manuscripts and prohibited works, etc., apply to Senor Bibliotecario Mayor. Biblioteca de San Ysidro. Calle de Toledo No. 45, adjoining church of same name, 80,000 volumes. It was chiefly formed by the Jesuits. Biblioteca of the University. Calle Ancha San Bernardo No. 51 ; free admission. Contains 24,000 volumes. Biblioteca of the Academy of History. Calle del Leon No, 21. Open daily. Most interesting, and containing manu- scripts, early editions, etc., of great value. Among other MS. may now be found here the only autograph letter extant of Cervantes, bequeathed to the Library by the Marques de San Ramon. Private Libraries. That of the Duke de Osuna, formerly one of the finest, has been dispersed. Biblioteca of the Duke de Medina-Cell. At his palace Plaza de las Cortes 5, 290 MADRID LIBRARIES. Apply to his administrator. Very in- teresting ; contains from 15,000 to 20,000 volumes. Biblioteca of Duke of Veraguas. San Mateo, Nos. 7 and 9. Contains many important manuscripts on Col- umbus, who was the Duke's ancestor. Biblioteca of Duke de Villahermosa. 25,000 volumes, Plaza de las Cortes 7. Biblioteca of Marquis de Salamanca. Plaza de Colon. The books, especially those on chivalry and others very curious, are of great value in an artistic and bibliographical point of view. Biblioteca of Sr. Gayangos. As re- markable for the variety of books and MSS. collected as for their great import- ance. Here is one of the most complete Arabic collections in Europe. Biblioteca of General San Roman. This fine military library is now in the Real Academia de la Historia. Biblioteca of Sr. D. Valentin Carder- era. A numerous and very valuable collection of early works of Spanish literature and art. Biblioteca of Sr. D. Hilarion de Eslava. The owner is a remarkable sacred music composer, and his collec- tion is exclusively composed of works on that art. Biblioteca of Spanish Academy. Not accessible. Of Academy of Noble Arts, Calle Alcala No. 11. Public from 10 A.M. to 2 P.M. Of Special School for the Staff of the Army, Calle Alcala No. 53 ; public to military visitors or by application to Director del Cuerpo. Library of Natural History, Calle Alcala No. 11. Of the Botanical Gar- dens, upon the Prado. Of the Ateneo, Calle Montera No. 22, 11,000 vols., free to members of that club. Del Colegio de Abogados, Carrera de San Geronimo 28 ; Del Senado ; Del Con- greso de Diputados, etc. Churches. The metropolis of the kingdom has no cathedral, whilst Za- ragoza, Cadiz, and other provincial towns, have two. In 1576 Philip II. was asked to build one, and 12,000 ducats were assigned out of the archi- episcopal rent, but the Escorial, his cathedral of cathedrals, could tolerate no rival, and the project was aban- doned. In 1623, Philip lY.'s pious queen renewed the scheme, and ob- tained from the king a sum of 70,000 ducats, to which the town added 50,000 more. The first stone was even laid down behind the church of Sta. Maria ; but, from several circumstances, the building was once more abandoned. The project has been several times revived, and it has been said that the edifice would be situated in the Retiro, facing the Prado. The churches are numerous, but of no merit, dating from a period of bad taste. The principal and usual features are : a large transept, one nave, a lofty lantern, heavy broad pillars semi - attached to the white- washed walls, large square windows without painted glass, tawdry chapels with cumbrous altars and indifferent pictures and images ; churrigueresque fa9ades and ornamentation ; filthy pave- ments, doors, etc. The principal are San Francisco el Grande. Situated in an out-of-the-way part of the city. A former convent, founded by that pa- triarch, when he came to Madrid in the 13th century, on his way to Santiago. Here was buried Clavijo, Camarero (a chamberlain then, now applied to wait- ers in hotels !) to Henrique el Do- lien te, and his ambassador to Tamerlan. Here were also buried the fair and frail queen of Henry IV., Dona MADRID CHURCHES. 291 Juana of Portugal, and that mysterious personage of the 15th century, Enrique de Villena a magician, a brujo, a mago (as said those who did not understand his learning), whose books on this supposed magic, ' e de artes no cumpli- deras de leer,' were burned, by order of Henry] IV., by the king's tutor, 'Barrientos,' in the cloisters of Sto. Domingo el Real, at Madrid.* Many of the learned of that time lamented their loss, and one of them, ' el Bachiller Fr. Gomez/ in a letter to Juan de Mena, says indignantly, ' Ca son muchos los que en este tiempo se fan dotos faciendo a otros insipientes e magos, e peor es que fazan beatos faciendo a otros nigro- manes.' The building was pulled down in 1760, and the present one erected on the plans of a Franciscan monk, Fray Francisco Cabezas, who built the cupola ; P16 and Sabatini finished it in 1784. It is a large, imposing edifice, in the shape of a vast rotunda, surrounded by seven chapels, 117 ft. diameter, 153 ft. high to cupola, and 125 ft. from the entrance to high chapel. The pictures are by the Academical Yelazquez (not, of course, the great man), Maella, Bayeu, and Goya. The church has lately been very gorgeously restored, the ceilings being painted by the Senores Ribera andPlasencia. Note the fine stalls at east end, brought from El Parral, Segovia. * Some, however, escaped the faggot. Among the most remarkable are: Translations from Dante and Virgil ; Arte Cisaria, or Art of Carv- ing, printed 1766. The ^neid is now in the Bib. Colombina, Seville ; his ' Libro de los Trabajos de Hercules ' is in the possession of S. Gayangos. Princes and kings in all coun- tries have sought always to read in the face of the heavens the truth which they found not around them, and besides this prince, Alfonso el Imperator was much given to astro- logy. His ' Del Tesoro,' wherein the philoso- pher's stone is mentioned and found, is in the Bib. Nacional. The 'Libro complete en los Judisios de las Estrellas,' in the Bib. Campo- manes. San Geronimo. Close to the Retiro. Once a gem of Gothic at its best period, built by Enrique IV. The statues of kings, stalls carved in Flanders, pic- tures, etc., all disappeared during the truly 'infausta' occupation of Madrid by the French. The Jura of the Princes of Asturias takes place here. Atocha. Contains one of the most miraculous and venerated images of the Church in Spain, which is said by some, who are too learned, to have been brought from Antioch, whence the name. It is one of the many genuine images said to have been carved by St. Luke no Phidias in that case. The queen and royal family visit it on Saturdays at 4 P.M. ; the image's wardrobe i.e. the queen's is magni- ficent ; and the jewels would build several three-deckers, and many a school. Founded 1523, by J. Hurtado de Mendoza, Charles V.'s confessor, who, a rara avis in a land of preten- ientes, entreated that monarch not to raise him to the Archiepiscopal See of Toledo. It was plundered and de- stroyed by the levelling French, and rebuilt by Ferdinand VII. It is a most indifferent building, and forms part of the Invalidos an imitation of the French establishment; from its walls hang several dusty banners taken from the enemy. The cloisters were built by Philip II. The pictures are by third-rate painters. The founder is buried here, and so are Bartolome de las Casas, 'el abogado de los Indios,' General Palafox, the defender of Zara- goza, Narvaez, Concha and Prim. (Notice the fine tomb of the last named by Zuloaga. ) San Isidro. In Calle de Toledo. Founded by the Jesuits in 1567 ; it was pulled down and rebuilt in 1651, under the patronage of the Empress 292 MADRID CHURCHES. Maria of Austria, after designs by the Jesuit Francisco Bautista. The high chapel was altered by V. Rodriguez. Here are the bodies of San Isidro (not Isidore), the pious Madrilenian plough- boy, in the service of the Condes de Onate, and of his not less pious better- half, Santa Maria de la Cabeza. The statue of the saint is by Mena, and the large painting of the Holy Trinity by Mengs. Several political saints are buried here also, and among them the artillerymen Daoiz and Velarde, the heroes 'del Dos de Mayo,' Donoso Cortes, etc. The facade is very poor : four colossal columns and two pilasters rise to the very cornice ; two large un- finished towers flank the extremities. The cupola is effective, and the transept broad and spacious. The chapels are sombre, and contain no objects of interest. Sto. Domingo. Founded 1219, by Domingo de Guzman, for a nunnery, especially patronised by kings. The choir was rebuilt for Philip II. by Herrera, in remembrance of his son Don Carlos, whose body lay here from 1567 to 1573. There are several princes and infantas buried here, and among them Berenguela, daughter of Alfonso the Learned. In the high chapel, erected by the Prioress Con- stanza, are the fine marble tombs of her grandfather, the Infante D. Juan, and that of the celebrated D. Pedro el Cruel, whose body lay forgotten in the hamlet of La Puebla de Alcocer, and was removed hither in 1444. His brother, D. Enrique, who had murdered him at Montiel, erected a paltry church for his interment near that place, and commemorated the murder in his will, signed at Burgos, May 1374, beginning 'In thanksgiving to God, through whose favour and mercies,' etc. A former statue of the king was re- moved during the French war to the cellars. The ashes of the Justiciero, as he was sometimes called, are buried in the Chapter-room. On the whole it is a most indifferent edifice. Santa Maria. The earliest church in Madrid. It was used by the Moors as a mosque, and its name 'de la Almudayna' (a granary), is certainly Arab, and is applied to the Virgin, a miraculous image said to have been found near a Moorish granary after the capture of the town by the Christians. The church was repaired by V. Rod- riguez ; most indifferent. The chapel of Sta. Ana is Gothic, and was built on the site of former cloisters by Bozme- diano, Charles V.'s secretary. The fiesta of this saint used formerly to be solemnised with curious dances, singing, etc., about which see Cervantes in the beginning of his ' Gitanilla. ' San Andre's. An early church to which the Catholic kings, who lived on the site now occupied by the man- sion of the Duke of Osuna, contributed. Philip V. began the chapel of San Isidro, tutelar of Madrid, in 1668 ; it cost 1,000,000 ducats. The barocco, heavy style, is well worthy of its archi- tect, Villareal. The pictures are by Ricci and Carreno. Behind this church is the Capilla del Obispo, Gothic; finished by Bishop Gutierre, but founded and begun in Charles V.'s time by Vargas, who had been a friend and councillor of the Catholic kings, whose reliance on his penetration was so great that it gave rise to the proverb, ' averi- guelo Vargas.' San Gines. Rebuilt about 1642; very indifferent, except for a crypt, ' la boveda,' where on certain days of the year, Lent and others, such ' ejer- cicios espirituales' as flagellation, or MADRID PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 293 pious whipping, take place ; but the custom is slackening, and the rods are no longer in great request. Observe here a paso of a Santo Cristo, by Ver- gaz, and Christ seated and stripped, by Alonso Cano. Las Salesas. Built 1749 by Ferdi- nand VI. and his queen, Dona Barbara, for the education of noblemen's daugh- ters. It cost 83,000 ; Carlier was the architect. The fa9ade towards the garden is the best and most effective. It is on the whole a large and regular edifice, well proportioned, but with the tinsel and cumbrous ornamentation so much in vogue at the time. Ferdinand VI. 's sepulchre, by Sabatini and Guti- errez, is fine. A wit has said of the whole : * Barbara Reyna, barbara obra, barbaro gusto.' In the 16th and 17th centuries most countries had an espe- cial church and hospital built for the exclusive use of their countrymen, travelling or residents, and supported by them. Thus the English had ' San Jorge,' built in 1611, on the site of the present San Ignacio, in Calle del Prin- cipe ; the French, in 1615, built San Luis, where to this day the French at Madrid resort to hear sermons, etc. , in their native tongue. The Italians founded that of 'el Nuncio,' or Los Italianos, in Carrera San Geronimo. The Portuguese built 'San Antonio,' which has some good frescoes by Gior- dano and Ricci. The Flemish, in 1606, erected that of < San Andres, ' etc. The religious festivities are devoid of the usual pomp displayed elsewhere ; and the procession of Corpus, Holy Friday, etc. , must not be seen here, but in To- ledo, Seville, Valencia, etc. Public Buildings. Town Hall (Casas Consistoriales) is an oblong edi- fice of the middle of 17th century, with square towers at the corners, composed of two stories ; the interior is spacious, the staircase fine. The best fa9ade is that on Calle de la Almudayna, modern- ised by Villaneuva. The Custodia, a fine work of Alvarez, 1588, was stolen some years ago. On the site of the Town Hall stood formerly the Consejo de Madrid, built under Juan II. In this plaza took place the Autos Sacramen- tales. The Ayuntamiento or corpora- tion had the privilege (granted 1317) of managing everything connected with these performances, to form the com- panies of actors, etc.* Panaderia. Begun in 1590 for the guild of bakers, as the Carniceria was on the opposite side for that of but- chers. Most of it was destroyed in the great fire of 1672, and the present edifice raised in imitation of the for- mer, to which, by way of improve- ment, churrigueresque appendages were added. Audiencia. This tribunal, now in Las Salesas, formerly occupied the site of an edifice built for a carcel de corte by the Marquis de Crescenci for Philip IV., and over the door was kept the * In the beginning of lyth century the celebra- tion of these autos during the festivities of Corpus Christi ran thus : The first and second autos were first performed on Corpus day at 4 P.M., in the palace, then again at the Conseja de Castilla, in the same plazuela ; and at night in the presence of the members of the Council of Aragon. Next morning the autos were per- formed before the Inquisition, the Corporation, and Ministerios. The public were not ad- mitted until the 8th representation. These semi- religious spectacles fell off after 1664. Calderon, the celebrated Spanish author, wrote seventy- two autos, with loos, by order of the ayunta- miento, to whose archives he bequeathed them ; most of them were stolen, but copies were left in their stead, the copyright of which the bookseller, Pedro Pando y Nier, purchased in 1716 for i6,5oor. 294 MADRID PUBLIC BUILDINGS. inscription : ' This Carcel de Corte was built for the safety and comfort of prisoners.' Casa de los Consejos. Opposite the church of Santa Maria, begun in the reign of Philip III. by the Duke de Uceda. A fine large solid building, well proportioned. The lottery is drawn here. Congreso (House of Commons). Be- gun in 1842 by Senor Colomer, and finished in 1850 on the model (!) of the French Corps Legislatif. In the centre of the principal fagade is a tri- angular front, on the tympanum of which is represented Spain receiving Law, accompanied by Power and Jus- tice ; the execution of this satire is very clumsy, and no less so are the ferocious lions on the sides of the steps, one of which was singed by a cannon- ball in 1854. The interior is hand- somely furnished and decorated with pictures by Senores Madrazo, Rivera, Espalter, etc. Observe the fine one of the 'Comuneros,' by Gisbert, a rising j painter. The public are admitted to the Tribuna publica; but travellers had better apply to a member for ticket to Tribuna reservada. Members j speak from their places. The ministe- | rial bench is called el banco azul. The j speakers most worth hearing are : ! Messieurs Castelar, Canovas, P. Her- j rera, etc. Their eloquence is flowery, | elegant, graphic, racy, very eastern ; j diffuse, seldom to the point, personal, recriminatory ; and thoughts, often richly laden, float, with wings ex- panded by imagination, upon a sea of words, and too often sink. Senado (House of Lords}. A paltry low edifice. It contains, however, some good modern paintings, by Predella, etc. Public Offices. The Home Office is in Puerta del Sol, very square, very heavy, very ugly, and the work of the French architect, J. Marquet, who for- got the staircase, which was subse- quently placed in a corner of the edifice. The Ministerio de la Guerra occupies a very fine large building, some 186 ft. long on each facade, near the Prado, and called 'de Buena Vista.' It was built by the Duchess of Alba, mother of the present duke, and afterwards purchased by the obsequious corpora- tion to present it to Godoy, Principe de la Paz. We may also mention the very large and well-built Casa de Mo- neda, the mint erected in Paseo de Recoletos ; the tobacco - manufactory ; the Finance, Ministerio , Calle de Al- cala; the Bank of San Fernando, a handsome building in Calle Atocha, and the paltry Bolsa. There are some fine and well-organ- ised hospitals that of La Princesa, the expenses of which are about 8000 a year ; the Facultad de Medicina de San Carlos, a fine building ; Anatomi- cal Museo, etc. Private Houses. The mansion of the Dulce of Alba, called Palacio de Liria, is low, but with a fine faade built by Ventura Rodriguez, and contains a sumptuously-furnished suite of apart- ments, a picture-gallery, library, ar- moury, and a theatre. That of the Duque de Villahermosa, in the Plaza de las Cortes ; that of the Marques de Casa Riera, etc., in Calle de Alcala, are large but commonplace. That of the DuJce of Medina - Cell occupies an area of 245,000 square feet ; it has been recently repaired in the French style of the 17th century. Notice the stair- case, reception-rooms, and armoury, which latter forms a special inde- pendent building. The church and gardens, etc., are all worthy of the MADRID SQUARES. 295 great house. In the Paseo de Recole- tos, which is the Madrid Avenue de 1'Imperatrice, several handsome hotels have been recently constructed. Ob- serve amongst them the Italian palace of Marquis de Salamanca ; everything that taste, wealth, and Andalusian love of display can produce, has been col- lected here. The picture-gallery is first-rate, so is the library ; and the conservatories, a reduced model of the Crystal Palace, are worth a visit. Op- posite to the Museo tourists must not fail to visit the exquisite Moorish resi- dence which Monsieur Bousvilvahl, one of the ablest French architects of the day, has constructed for Sr Xifre*. Squares, Bridges, Streets, etc. There are seventy-two squares in Ma- drid, most of which do not deserve the name. The principal are Plaza May or ; 434 ft. long, 334 wide, 1536 in circum- ference. This square is surrounded by an open portico (30 portales), divided by pillars rising 71 ft. high, which support the three stories of the houses. Several arched ways give ingress into it. On the site of a former one, which was made in the reign of Juan II., the present one was built for Philip III. by L. Gomez de Mora ; was begun De- cember 1617, and finished two years after, at a cost of 9000 ducats ; 4000 persons could lodge in the houses around, and the square on great festivi- ties would hold 50,000 spectators, when balconies were let for twelve ducats, a large sum then, but small in proportion to that paid at the royal bull -fights which took place here to celebrate the marriage of Queen Isabel II. In May 1620 it was inaugurated by a great funcion, in honour of the Beatification of San Ysidro, whose canonisation took place two years after. On June 1, 1623, Charles I., then Prince of Wales, was here present at a bull-fight ; and on August 21 canas took place, when all the beauty and grandees gathered round the English prince, and when the king, to pay him court, led himself one of the ten cuadrillas. Charles sat close to his affianced bride, the Infanta Maria, from whom he was separated by a slender railing. In 1631 a great portion of the S. side was destroyed by fire, and in 1672 another fire consumed the Panaderia. In the centre stands a superb equestrian statue of Philip III., executed by Juan de Bologna, from a drawing by Pantoja, and completed by Pedro Tacca. The horse looks like a prize cow, which is no fault of the artist, but of the breed. The Plaza is the rendezvous of the lower classes, and as such interesting to the artist. About Christmas it pre- sents a most animated sight piles of oranges and sandias, droves of turkeys, sweetmeats, turrones and mazapanes, drums, panderetas, crowd it on all sides, converting it into a pandemonium of delights. Puerta del Sol. Said to derive its name from one of the gates of Old Ma- drid, which stood here, towards the E. This is the heart of the city, from which the main streets diverge like so many arteries. It is the rendezvous of idlers as well as men of business, for here all come to deal with time, that precious metal which the wise man turns into gold, and the fool squanders. Tomar el sol is, however, the principal occu- pation, and endless cigarritos and schemes are puffed, which all end in smoke. In the centre is a fountain and basin much admired by the natives, and in which three overheated young Britons dived and swam some timo since by way of a lark, and to the in- dignation and stupor of the police and passers by ! 296 MADRID STREETS. Plazuela de la Villa (see Town Hall). The large house near the Town hall was the palace of Cardinal Ximenes, and the balcony is pointed out, looking to Calle del Sacramento, from which the cardi- nal, on his being asked, by a depu- tation of the irritated nobility, to show the letters - patent which gave him authority over them, answered, pointing to the formidable array of troops and cannons which were formed on the plain below ' These are the powers by which I govern the king- dom, and I will continue to do so, until the king, your master and mine, comes to relieve me ;' but his historian, Alvar Gomez, denies the fact, and adds that it is a bad imitation of Scipio's saying. Here also is the Torre de los Lujanes, where Francis I. was confined until removed to the palace, and from which, according to Mr. Scribe, in his 'Contes de la Reine de Navarre,' he could plainly hear singing and the guitar played from the other side of the Manzanares. Plazuela de la Paja. A large open square, where several autos-da-fe and political executions have taken place. It is the principal corn -market. Be- tween this and the Plazuela de la Villa is that de la Cruz Verde, in the centre of which stands a cross which marks the spot where the last auto-da-fe took place in Madrid. Plaza de Oriente. E. of Royal Palace, one of the earliest squares planted with trees, and which have since become general in Madrid. It is decorated with indifferent statues of kings and queens of Spain, which formerly stood on the stone balustrade of the palace. In the centre is a magnificent equestrian statue of Philip IV. on his war charger, a present of the Grand Duke of Tuscany. Montanes carved the model in wood after designs by Velazquez, and it was cast at Florence, 1640, by Pietro Tacca. It weighs 180 cwt., and is 19 feet high. Galileo is said to have suggested the means by which the balance is so ad mirably preserved. All the front por- tion is hollow, and the hinder massive. When made it was valued at 40,000 doubloons. The bassi-relievi represent Philip IV. knighting Velazquez, an allegory, etc. Streets. The handsomest street is Calle de A Icald. Calle Montera. This steep street is lined with shops half- way is the church of St. Luis, an indif- ferent edifice and terminates at a foun- tain. It derives its name from the fair wife of a Montero del Rey, who lived here. The portion around the church is called Red de San Luis, a name ap- plied to markets where cattle and sheep were sold, and especially sheep, which are kept within esparto nets (redes). Caballero de Gratia, so called because Jacopo de Grattis of Modena, a knight of the order of Christ, died here at the age of 102 (1619). In the same street died also Anthony Asham, Cromwell's ambassador, who was murdered, May 6, 1650, by some English royalists, to avenge Charles I.'s death, for which Asham had voted. Jacometrezo, so called from the resi- dence of Jacopo Trezzo of Lombardy, a sculptor of renown in the reign of Philip II. Leganitos, Arabice al Gannib, gar- dens, orchards, which were here for- merly, extending to Calles de las Huer- tas and Jardines ; these have long ago disappeared, and the roses that grow here now have more thorns than per- fume, MADRID STREETS. 297 In Calle de Platerias lived the plateros or silversmiths, some of whom have continued to do so. Gates: Puerto, de Alcald. A very notable triumphal arch, built in the reign of Charles III., to commemorate his arrival at the Corte. It is 70 ft. high and consists of 5 arches. It was designed by Sabatini, and is decorated with Ionic columns, the capitals of which were moulded on those exe- cuted by M. Angelo for the Capitol at Rome. The Puerto, de Toledo is large but of no merit ; that of San Vicente is in- different. Bridges: Puente de Toledo. Very picturesque. Consists of nine arches, elegant and plain. Built on site of a former one in 1735 ; is 36 ft. wide and 385 long ; half-way are the statues of San Isidro and his holy wife. On the plains around it (to the left, next the gate) executions take place. Here the gallant General Diego Leon was shot, for supposed high treason, by order of Espartero, and fell a prey to party spirit ; and the Cura Merino, who stabbed Queen Isabella some years since, was garrotted and burnt. Public exe- cutions are now unfrequent, their effect on the lower classes being homoeo- pathic, and rather productive of crime. Puente de Segovia. A well-built bridge after designs by Juan de Herrera, and all of stone. Nine arches, 31 feet broad and 695 long. Though much injured by the accumulation of sands and neglected, it is nevertheless a fine bridge, and deserves a river. The Manzanares. This waterless river takes its source eight leagues off, near a small village of that name, flows N. W. to S.E., crosses the Prado, leaves the Casa de Campo to the right, and Madrid to left, and four leagues farther joins the Tarama. Like most rivers in Spain, it is but a mountain torrent produced by snows, and therefore almost dry in winter, and sometimes overflow- ing in the spring. Many therefore have been the pleasantries of which this poor stream has been the butt. The Canal de Manzanares, begun by Charles III., finished by Ferdinand VII., and which commenced at the bridge of Toledo and went as far as Vacia Madrid, has been recently suppressed. The Canal de Lo- zoya, or Isabel II., begins at Torrelaguna, and runs 70 k. into Madrid : the aque- ducts of Valdealeas and Sotillo, with the dyke of the Oliva Ponton, are the most important works. The engineer, Sr. Lucio del Yalle, was created Mar- ques del Lozoya. Prout-Uts. The old Madrid of Lope de Vega and Calderon, the Madrid of Capa y Espada, of Cervantes and Gil Bias, was situated S.E. of the palace. About the Almudena, the Carrera de S. Francisco, Bajada de la Cuesta de la Vega, Consejos, etc., lived, and still live, the great families of Malpicas, Infantados, Ucedas, Abrantes, Villa- francas, etc. The portion about Cava Baja, Calle Segovia, Puerta Cerrada, was the Moreria and Jews' quarter. These latter, very numerous in 14th and 15th centuries here, had a fine syna- gogue, and paid a tribute of 10,105 maravedises. (Patron-general formed at Huete, 1348.) The physician of Tenorio, Archbishop of Toledo, was a Jew, Maestro Pedro (1395). The Jews lived also on the heights of Las Vis- tillas. Promenades. In the time of En- rique IV. the paseo was 'La Redon- 298 MADRID THE PJIADO. dilla,' near the Vistillas. The gentle- men rode on ponies and the ladies on mules, richly caparisoned, and riding on rudana saddles, or, a la gineta that is, sideways but more especially like men, which latter custom was in use even as late as Charles lY.'s reign, whose queen adopted it exclusively. The Prado, as its name indicates, was an extensive meadow situated near the Retiro, in whose palace the court of Philip IV. almost always resided. Charles III. turned it into a promenade, planting trees, and erecting the foun- tains, etc. The Paseo del Prado really extends from the Paseo de Atocha to Calle de Alcala ; but what is more generally known as the Prado is el Salon, a mag- nificent walk 230 ft. broad, and situ- ated between Carrera de San Geronimo and Calle de Alcala. The fountains are indifferent, and by Yergaz, Alvarez, etc. Notice, however, as exceptions, the Fuente de Neptuno, by Francisco Gutierrez, and that of Cibeles, by Pascual de Mena. Between this salon and the obelisk on the opposite side is a broad drive. The obelisco, called the 'El dos de Mayo,' is situated on left of the steep avenue leading to the Retiro. It stands in the centre of a funereal-looking garden, called Campo de la Lealtad, and was erected in com- memoration of a combat which took place here in 1808, between some paisanos, headed by three gallant artil- lery officers, Ruiz, Daoiz, and Velarde, and some French troops under General Lefranc, who were endeavouring (and finally succeeded) to obtain possession of the artillery dep6ts of Monteleon. The Prado is now more frequented by the lower than the upper classes, who prefer the Paseo Castellana. The hours are, during the winter, from 3 to 5 P.M. ; in summer, 8 to 11 P.M., when the gas-lamps are lighted. Iron chairs, 2 cuartos each, are placed in rows, and the air rings with ' Fosforos y cajillas,' 'Agua fresca como la niebe, quien la pide, a seis mais (maravedises) naranjas.' The girls and boys form ' coros,' and sing whilst turning round, to the tune of ' a la limon ! a la limon ! ' all screamed through the nose ; for the human voice and that of birds is not harmonious in the south as it is in northern climes. The Paseo Castel- lana is the favourite paseo from 4.30 to 6.30 P.M. It has been considerably improved recently. It is formed by a long broad avenue in the centre, a smaller to the left for horsemen, and walks on the sides, divided by shady trees for the multitude that goes on foot. There is a well-known fountain, de la Alcachofa, but it is no model of taste. The equipages are very numer- ous, and well got up, and the horses, mostly English, or of the Tarbes breed, handsome and costly. The Paseo de la Virgen del Puerto, near the Manzanares, is frequented by the lower classes on holidays. It was a very fashionable resort in the 16th and 17th centuries ; and on the morning of St. John's Day, ladies went down to 'coger el trebol' ('ah, qu'il fait done bon, cueillir la fraise, ' says the French song) ; and the Verbena nights were boisterous and animated, so much so, indeed, that, in 1588, that of San Juan was prohibited by the clergy, to pro- pitiate God, and deserve his protection in favour of the ' Armada Santa, ' sent against the heretic English. The only Romeda now is that to San Isidro (May 15th), a small church erected by Charles V.'s queen ; repaired 1724. Go to it by all means, and look at the bucaro vases, cantaros, alcarrazas, pu- cheros with bells, etc. That of San Antonio, a small Hermita on the Florida MADRID. 299 (another promenade little frequented now), is the exclusive religious festivity of quadrupeds, whose patron that saint is considered to be. Strings of mules, horses, donkeys, flock to the shrine to be blessed by the priest. The mules on that occasion are shorn, esquiladas, and tasteful designs cut out in their hair, such as flower -vases, trees, etc. This pious pilgrimage is rigorously ob- served by grooms, who, in their zeal for the welfare of their masters' beasts, push on always to the shrines of god Carmen a and goddess Cerbeza, which are close by. Buen Retire (retire, a retreat, seclu- sion, a refuge). Here stood formerly a hunting-box, called 'El Cuarto,' and enlarged by Philip II. , who added gal- leries and four towers, likening it to a villa in which he had lived with Queen Mary during his sojourn in England. Count -Duke of Olivares, Philip IV. 'a privado, fearing lest want of amuse- ments should turn the king's mind to politics, built a new palace in 1630, which became the rendezvous of wits and great artists, and was celebrated for its theatricals and masquerades. It was burnt down in 1734, when the beauti- ful Titians and Velazquezes it contained were consumed. The gardens form a pleasant shady promenade, and in the spring, when its numerous hedges of lilacs bloom, it is a charming resort. At the end of the broad central avenue, decorated with statues of kings and queens of Spain, is a large pond, el estangue, with several pavilions. There was formerly a flotilla of boats, placed under the command of an admiral. In the menagerie, Oasa de Fieras, live two or three octogenarian bears, a feather- less hoary eagle, and half a dozen canaille-looking monkeys. A broad carriage-road runs from the gate in Calle de la Venta, past the Casa de Fieras, to the Paseo de Atocha. It is the fashionable drive in winter from 4 till 6, and in summer from 6 till 8. Parallel to it is a road for riders, and a footpath shaded by an avenue of Wellingtonias. At the end of this avenue is a view over the arid country, with a low hill in the distance crowned with a chapel, and called el Cerro de los Angeles. At the upper end of the Buen Retire is a mound with a ' Belve- dere,' commanding a panoramic view of Madrid. The rustic cottage, la Casa Perla, is now a Cafe. During the summer months a military band plays in the gardens. There are, besides, a skating-pond, a winter garden erected near it, and a good rink. Barrio de Salamanca. A new and most healthy quarter of Madrid, laid out by the wealthy and enterprising banker, the Marquis of Salamanca. It contains several magnificent mansions. Casino de la Eeyna. In the Emba- j adores. A small palace where formerly distinguished foreigners were sometimes lodged. Since 1871, it has been con- verted into the Archseological Museum. Botanical Gardens. Entrance oppo- site to picture-gallery (S. side). Has been turned into a jardin de aclima- tacion. It contains little to interest botanists, and is ill kept. Open from 1st May to 30th Sept. from 4 P.M. till dark, and all the year round with permit from the Director, D. Miguel Colmeiro, who lives in Calle Clavel No. 2. An indifferent conservatory and library. Botanical lectures in winter. The Campos Eliseos. Behind the bull-ring. Formerly a prettily arranged place of public resort, with a good 300 MADRID THEATRES. theatre ; now of no account, save for Sunday and other festival dancing, etc. , and destined to be speedily built over. Theatres, Bull -ring, etc. Italian Opera. Begun in 1818, and opened in 1850. It is called Teatro Real, and is situated close to the royal palace. The exterior is indifferent. N.B. In all Madrid theatres there are two separate ticket - offices : one where stalls, boxes, etc., are hired ; and others, where entradas or tickets of admittance are sold, about 4r. each. A box (un palco), 140 p. ; a stall (butaca), 12 p., the upper row of boxes, palcos principales are cheaper. N.B. Two tickets must always be taken, one for box or stall, which is delivered to the keeper, and the entrance ticket (entrada) which is delivered at the door. Fashion- able visitors go to stalls. As to toilette, men go as they choose, except to the boxes, when they dress. Ladies dress a good deal. Bonnets can be worn at the stalls, but none in boxes. Low dress or demi-toilette is usual. The opera begins generally about 8.30, and ends at 12 P.M. The entr'actes are long ; the orchestra good and well con- ducted. Italian opera and ballet, and sacred music during Lent. The house is very elegant, and handsomely fur- nished ; it is capable of accommodating 2000 spectators, and the stalls and boxes are easy and comfortable. Not- withstanding the low prices, the com- pany is generally first-rate. The Government gives no subvention, and the empresarios ruin themselves, with the greatest possible certainty of doing so, when they take it up. Hours. Theatres mostly begin at 8 P.M., and end at 11.30 or 12 P.M. N.B. It is the habit between entr'actes to pay visits to boxes. Smoking and refreshments are tolerated in most theatres. There is in each, or close by, a cafe with ices, etc. La Zarzuela. Calle de Jovellanos. It is a very pretty theatre, destined exclusively for the National Opera Comique. Palcos and plateaus, 15 p. at the bureau, and 20 p. at contaduria (without entrada}. The entresuelos (rez-dechausse'e, literally), and princi- pales, same prices. Butacas, 3 pes. and 4 pes. at contaduria. 3r. each entrada ; the lowest is 3r. , much frequented. Teatro Espanol. Calle del Principe. The best theatre to have an idea of the actual Spanish drama. All the new plays are given here. Will contain 2000 spectators ; the best acting in Madrid. Except in first boxes, ladies can dress as they choose at either ; palcos de platea and bajos (without intrada), 35 pes. ; a stall, 4 pes. ; the prices, however, vary. Teatro Apolo. Calle de Alcala. One of the most elegant here. Co- medies and melodrama. A box, 25 pes. ; a stall, 3 pes. Teatro de la Comedia, Calle del Prin- cipe, new and well arranged. Teatro y Circo del Principe Alfonso > originally built as a circus. Paseo de Recoletos 17. Now a large summer theatre. Novedades, Plazuela de la Cebada, A low theatre ; popular dramas, farces. Circo- Hippodrome de Terano, Plaza de la Lealtad. Circo de Price. (English circus.) Plaza del Key. Very good. MADRID BULL-RING. 301 Variedades. Callc de la Magdalena. A small theatre. Comedy, drama, and Spanish dancing. No toilette required for these houses. Palcos bajos (without entrada), 12| pes. ; principales (idem), 8 pes. ; butacas, 3 pes. The opera begins in October and ends in April. Subscriptions are cheap. At some of the second and third rate theatres Yariedades, Lara, Eslava and Martin the house is cleared at the conclusion of each piece. There are bad imitations of Mabille, Salle Valentino, Chateau-des-Fleurs, etc., at Salon de Capellanes, Calle de Capellanes "No. 10, from middle of November to Do- mingo de Pinata, from nine to two in the morning ; but some finish much later. Prices, 6r. to 1 Or. The company is nombreuse, inais pas treschoisie. The public and private gardens from the Buen Retire downwards form the great rendezvous in the summer even- ings, from 9 to 11.30 P.M. The music at the Retire is good. There are masked balls at the different theatres ; but the only ones to which ladies go (in dominos, of course) are the Teatro Real and Zar- zuela. The men go unmasked. The fashionable hours, twelve to four in the morning. The best society go to these. (For other festivities see General In- formation : Festivities.) Plaza de Toros. The bull -ring out- side the Puerta de Alcala was built in 1749, by Philip V., who tried first to do away with the bloody spectacle, but could not succeed. He regained his popularity by building a new one, as, according to Ferdinand VII., the great political maxim for government in Spain is, pan y toros, an echo, as it were, of panem et circenses. The huge building is rather effective with its Moorish forms, and the best corridas in Spain are seen here to perfection. They usually take place on Sundays beginning from April to September or October. The ring contains about 14,000 spectators. Ladies do not go as much as they used, and the royal family scarcely ever. Spanish ladies who go wear the mantilla, which is there almost de rigueur, but foreign fair travellers can go in bonnets, as, after all, in them it is less remarkable and better taste. The prices are liable to change, but may be put down as fol- lows : boxes in the shade (palcos de sombra), 75 p. ; palcos de sol y sombra, 35 p.; de sol, 20 p. But these are most difficult to obtain, as they are almost all subscribed ; in that case travellers (both ladies and gentlemen) had better get delanteras de Andanadas, if not tablon- cillos de sombra, 5 p. ; sol y sombra, 4 p. ; sol, 3 p. They generally begin about 3.30 or 4 P.M., and finish at 6 or 6.30 P.M., six bulls being the usual number of victims. (See General Infor- mation: Bull-fights.) Novilladas(yQ\mg bulls with tipped horns) and mogigangas (men and women masqueraded), etc., take place now and then ; but they are low spectacles, seldom attended by any but the rabble. Prices then vary, and a box costs only 12| p. for ten persons. There are private bull-fights, to which persons can go through acquaintance of the owners. The Duchess de Medina- Celi had one of her own, and her brother- in-law, the Marquis of Villaseca, was a distinguished torero. The monas which the bulls wear floating on their backs are then richly embroidered, and made up by the fair who attend. The bulls are chosen purposely very young, and as harmless as consistent with their nature. Sociedad de Caza (Hunt Club). Composed of the cream of the rising generation, some sporting attaches, etc., harriers from France some good runs now and then. Apply to the secretary. 302 MADRID. El Feloz (Jockey) Club, Alcala 15. Cock- fighting. At the Circo Gallis- tico ; worth a visit ; stalls and boxes. Much betting. On Sundays at 12 P.M. Chibs. The Casino, Calle de Al- cala 36. Visitors admitted (at a small fee), for a fortnight, upon member's introduction; if for longer have to be subjected to ballot, and pay 16 dollars on entering, and 30r. a month. Trente et quarante well attended, and much gambling. Foreign papers, reviews, etc. The Ateneo, Calle de la Montera, quieter ; reading and lecture rooms. If you understand the language, attend the lectures delivered here during the season by well-known men. Conditions almost same as for casino. Cir- culo de Comer do and Union Mer can- til. Two other second-rate clubs. Reading-rooms, Carrera San Geronimo No. 3, ground -floor, and Calle de la Victoria. Post Office. Calle de Carretas, just off the Puerta del Sol. French and English letters are delivered at noon. Buzones cleared at 4. 30 p. M. , but letters may be posted at the General Post Office up to 6.30 P.M., and, with an extra 5 centimos stamp, up to 7 o'clock. (See General Information. ) Telegraph Office. Calle de San Ri- cardo 1. Open day and night. (See General Information, Telegraph.) British Embassy. Calle Torija 9. Hours, from 1 to 3. U.S.A. Legation. Plaza San Mar- tin 3. Church of England Service. Twice on Sundays, Calle Leganitos 4 ; Chap- lain, Rev. R. H. Whereat. Scotch Church Service upon the piso above ; twice on Sundays. Spanish Protestant Church and Schools, Glorieta de Quebedo. DIRECTORY. Antiquities, dealers in. Dominguez, Alcala 3 ; Garcia, Huertas 30 ; Bonet, Magdalena, 10. Apothecaries. Borrell, hermanos, Puerta del Sol 5 ; English and French medicines prepared and sold ; mineral waters, etc. ; French spoken : Lomana, Alcala 3. Bankers. Bayo and Co., Greda 9 ; Moreno, Carrera de San Geronimo 17 ; Bauer, San Bernardo 54 ; O'Shea and Co., Leganitos 46 ; Credit Lyonnais, Espoz y Mina 6 ; Union Bank of Eng- land and Spain, Ld., Bordadores 3 ; Bank of Spain, Atocha 15. Baths. Arabes, Velazquez 29 : very good ; De Oriente, Plaza de Isabel II. 1 ; Del Norte, Calle Aduana 25, and Jardines 16 ; Niagara, Cuesta de San Vicente 14 ; Regiamar, Gorguera 14 : the most modern (Russian, vapour, and medicinal baths). Booksellers. Bailly-Bailliere, Plaza Santa Ana 10 ; Esteban y Perez, Buena- vista 20 ; San Martin, Puerta del Sol 6 ; Fernando Fe, Carrera de San Gero- nimo 2. Dentists. Warren, Calle Serrano 5; Edwards, Recoletos 12. Diligences. General Office, Alcala 13. Doctors. Kispert, Arco de Sta. Maria 41 ; Riedel (the Queen's physician). Both these speak English. Bide, Calle Tetuan 23 (French). Homoeopathic, MADRID. 303 Hysern, Plaza do Jesus 3 ; Nunez, Habana 3. Usual fee, 10 pesetas if consulted at home, 20 pesetas if sent for. Fancy Shops. Hipolito Bach, Ca- ballero de Gracia 22 ; Escribano, Car- rera de San Geronimo 8. Flowers, bouquets, etc. Several good shops in the Calle Sevilla. Glovers. Lafin, Caballero de Gracia 26 ; Gely y Compafiia, Puerta del Sol 10. Grocer, Wine Merchant, etc. Bittini, Alcala 27. Hairdressers. Belmar, Alcala 5 ; Villalon, Fuencarral 29. Hatters. Aimable, Puerta del Sol 4 ; Justo Gomez, Calle de Peligros 14 and 16. Jewellers. Ansorena, Carrera de-San Geronimo 2 ; Victoria 2, and Espoz y Mina 1 ; Bruny, Carmen 9 and 11. Masters. Fencing: Broutin, Plaza del Rey 5. Music: Mas, Carretas 22 (guitar) ; Inzenga, Desengano 22 (Spanish songs, etc.). Spanish: Cor- nelias, Carbon 8 ; Caballero, Alcala 23 ; Giner, Obelisco 8. Manila shawls and fans. Barcenas, Calle Mayor 3. Mantillas, etc. Almagro, Calle de la Cruz 38-42. . Modistes. Madame Angles, Alcala 35 ; Madame Maisongrosse, Caballero de Gracia 29. For bonnets, mantelets, parures, etc., Honorine, Victoria 2. Artificial flowers, Kuhn, Cruz 42 ; Lopez, Montera 13 (French shop). Money changers. Several good in the Carrera de San Geronimo, Puerta del Sol and Alcala. Musicseller. Romero, Capellanes 10. Optician. Grasselli, Montera 5. Perfumers. Villalon, Fuencarral 29 ; Dumangin y Compahia (Rimmel), Capellanes 1. Photographers. Napoleon, Principe 14. For views of Spain and the Museo pictures, Laurent, San Geronimo 39. Shoemaker. Cayatte, Carrera de San Geronimo 28. Stationer. Romero, Preciados 1. Tailors. Muiioz y Pedraza, Calle Mayor 1- Omnibuses and Trains ply from and to the different railway stations, and along all the principal streets. Special omnibuses run to the princi- pal trains from the Despacho Central in the Alcala, carrying luggage. Fares : From 6 A. M. to midnight, 2 reals ; from midnight to 6 A.M., 4 reals: luggage, up to 40 kils., 25 centimos for the day course, 50 centimos after midnight ; for every fraction of 10 kils. over 40 kils., 12 centimos by day. 25 centimos by night. Private omnibuses, of 6 seats, may be hired d domicilio for 4 pesetas until midnight, and 6 pesetas from midnight until 6 A.M. 100 kils. of luggage free. For every fraction of 10 kils. in excess, 4 reals for the day service, 8 reals for the night. Cabstands are to be found in the Puerta del Sol and many of the prin- 304 MADRID. cipal streets and plazas. When un- occupied a small tin card is stuck up on the corner, with the words se alquila. FARES One horse, two seats. A course by day, till midnight . 1 p. ,, from midnight till 5 A. M. in summer and 6 A.M. in winter . 2J p. By the hour. One or two persons till midnight 2 p. From midnight till 5 A.M. in summer and 6 A.M. in winter 3 p Two horses, four seats. A course by day, till midnight . 3 p. ,, from midnight till 5 A.M. in summer and 6 A.M. in winter . 4^ p. By the hour. By day till midnight . . 3 p. From midnight till 5 A.M. in summer and 6 A.M. in winter 4^ p. N. B. These tariffs are liable to variation at fair time, etc. Very good carriages, with horses and well-appointed coachmen and footmen (cochero y lacayo), can be hired at Lazaro Sanchez', Alcala 40, and Atocha 17. They cost about 750 pesetas a month. Riding horses may be hired from Perelli, riding master, Arco de Santa Maria 40, at a cost of 15 to 20 pesetas per day. Carriages (caleches, carretelas, etc.) cost about 15 pesetas for half a day, and 25 pesetas for a whole day. The English Cemeterylies about a mile outside the city, beyond the Puente de Toledo. It is just one acre in extent, and prettily laid out. Capitania General. Calle Mayor 127. Open from 10 A.M. to 5 P.M. Foreigners who have any complaint to make can apply to this authority ; but if to re- cover lost articles, or in case of petty conflicts and difficulties with natives, apply to any Inspector de Yigilancia, who is generally civil, may be intelli- gent, but must not be expected to be active. Environs. Casa de Campo. A royal shooting-box, on the right bank of the Manzanares, 7 m. in circum- ference, begun by Charles III. The house is paltry ; the supply of water is abundant, and there are some fine avenues. Drive through the Calle Azul, round the pond, to the race- course, where a caricature Derby takes place in May. Good shooting. Apply for permit to visit the royal country- houses to Intendente de la Casa Real. Visit La Moncloa, to which place the Buen Retire porcelain-manufactory was removed by Ferdinand VII. It is situated on the N. of the city, upon the El Pardo carretera. The palace has been turned into a school of agri- culture, but with only moderate success. El Par do. Situated 2 leagues KW., on left bank of the river. There has been a royal palace here from the very earliest days of Madrid's ascendency, indeed as far back as the time of Enrique III., ElDoliente. The present house, however, dates only from the reign of Philip III., at the beginning of the 17th century, when the older pile was burned down. It attained to its present importance in the time of Charles III., who made large additions to it. Since then the place has been a favourite Sitio Real, from the excel- lence of its preserves and its convenient position near the capital. The shooting is first-rate, the covers being about 40 miles in circumference, well planted and stocked. There are not many objects of interest within the house, but the tapestries after designs of Goya and MADRID. 305 Terriers should be noticed. English visitors who have seen Ribalta's superb Christ bearing the Cross (sometimes ascribed to Morales) which forms the retablo in Magdalen Chapel, Oxford, will be interested to find a copy of it here in the royal chapel. Alatneda. 1 J hr. drive, the country- seat of Duke of Osuna ; apply for per- mit to his head steward. Some fine avenues ; the gardens well supplied with water. Look at some finely- carved groups of tauromachian subjects, also at the stables and grounds. The latter are, however, falling into a bad state. Los Oarabancheles. Two miserable villages, one de arriba and the other de abajo, where some Madrid people have had the courage to build villas ; amongst them Countess Montijo ; half an hour's drive after passing the fine bridge of Toledo. There is a tramway throughout, with frequent cars, and the villages form a great resort of Madrid holiday-takers of the lower classes. Boadilla del Monte. A small village with a rarely - visited royal residence, lying about 4 leagues from the capital, near JSTavalcarnero. The house belonged at one time to the infamous Godoy, the * Prince of Peace, ' and contains a few Goyas worth seeing. The excursion is not, however, one to be undertaken by the ordinary tourist. Distances to the principal milages near Madrid. Alcorcon, 2 leagues, and road to Badajoz. Alcovendas, 3 leagues, road to Bayonne. Arganda, 4 leagues, excellent crimson red wine. Algete, 5 leagues, estates and pad- docks of Duque del Sesto. Barajas, 2 leagues. Good shooting hares and partridges. Batres, 5 leagues. Baztan, 6 leagues. Canillejas, 1J league. Carabanchel Alto, f league. Vide supra. Carabanchel Bajo, J league. Vide supra. Cabanillas, 9 leagues. Road to Bayonne ; some shooting. Chamartin, 1 league. A dilapidated villa of Duque de Osuna, where Na- poleon lodged. Chinchon, 6 leagues. Fuencarral, 1 J league. Eggs sold at Madrid come 'frescos de Fuencarral,' where they perhaps were hatched for months before. Hortaleza, 1J league. As former, on Bayonne road ; large village. Leganes, 1 f league. Lunatic Asylum. Loeches, 5 leagues. Mineral spring. Molar (el), 7 leagues. Mineral spring. Navalcarnero, 5 leagues. Excellent common red wine. Pesadilla, 8| leagues. Good shoot- ing ; Sotos, especially that of Sr. D. Andre's Caballero. Romanillos, 4 leagues. Estates of Duque de Alba ; wolf -hunting, d ojeo in winter. Torrejon de Ardoz, 3 leagues. Site of battle won by Marshal Narvaez over the Carlists. Vacia Madrid, 3 leagues. Vallecas, 1 league. Fossil deposits. Yalverde, 5 leagues. Vicalvaro, 1 league. Battle won, 1854, by Marshal O'Donnell, against the San Luis Government generals. Villaviciosa, 3 leagues. Some sum- mer villas, good climate. Escuela de Ingenieros de Montes, 306 MALAGA. Malaga. Capital of province of same name ; bishop's see, and a trading sea- port ; pop. 116,300. Boutes and Conveyance from or to Madrid. By rail throughout; and thus: Ma- "drid to Cordova, about 14 hrs. ; fares, 194.50, 150.75. Cordova to Malaga, time, 6 hrs. ; fares, 93.50, 70.25. Two trains a-day. Distance, 193 kil. This is the most direct route between Madrid and Malaga. The scenery is not devoid of interest. The principal town on the way is Mantilla. Description of Route. Shortly after leaving Cordova, the Guadalquivir is crossed on a sheet-iron bridge, resting on tubular piers 17 metres high. The in- signiiicantGuadajocillo stream is crossed three times, and Fernan Nunez is reached a small insignificant town, 6000 inhabitants, with an old 'palacio,' the property of the duke of that name. Ascending slightly, we soon get to Mon- tilla, 15,000 inhabitants ; a very strik- ingly situated town, rising on two hills, from which the view is very extensive. See for details on the celebrated wine produced here, Odrdova : Excursions, and General Information : Wine. On leaving, the Rio Cabra is crossed, and Aguilar is reached, a small town of 12,000 inhabitants, near which are some estates belonging to the wealthy house of Medinaceli. Excellent wines, which go by the name of Montilla. An interesting though dilapidated Moorish castle ; close to it, upon a hill, stands the Castillo de Anzur, the pro- perty of the Duke of Medinaceli. The Genii is crossed shortly after leaving the stream of Puente Genii, on an iron bridge. Close to stream and town of Fuente de Piedra are some excellent springs, which either cure, or are sure to alleviate, those who suffer from the stone, whence the town has derived its second name. On right of stream, a small salt-water lake, 16 kil. circuit ; on left, a lofty hill ; on the opposite side, the fertile * Campina ' of Ante- quera. Bobadilla. Cross the Guadalhorce, branch line to Antequera, whence to Granada. A tunnel 360 met. long. Gobantes, 3 hrs.' walk, leads to the much frequented mineral baths of Carratraca. Daily coach from Gobantes to Honda, 34 m. Some 10 kil. W., another road leads across the Sierra de Penarubia to the town (4000 inhabitants) and estates of Teba, the apanage of the late Empress of the French, who is Condesa de Teba. The wines produced in its vicinity are very like that of Jerez. There are some tracts of wild scenery, especially the rocky * Hoyo, ' a little beyond this last stream, and a series of tunnels, 5000 m. long, are successively traversed. Iron and stone viaducts, tunnels, and other exten- sive and costly works, have been required to overcome the difficulties offered by the nature of the country. On leaving the last tunnel, a beautiful orange- growing valley is traversed, succeeded, shortly after leaving station of Alora, by others, planted, besides, with citron trees, pomegranates, etc. Pizarra, 3600 inhabitants. Travellers going to Ronda or Carratraca, when proceeding from Malaga, take a road which leads from this station, 2 hrs. Close to Cartama, an ancient but now most insignificant town on a hill, may be seen the ruins of an old fortress. The soil around is very fertile. MALAGA. 307 At Malaga, station 'buses in attend- ance ; Ir. per traveller ; 2r. with luggage. From Seville. By rail to Cordova, whence ut * supra ; also direct, via Ut- rera, La Roda and Bobadilla,,in 6 hrs. From Jaen. See Cdrdova. From Granada. By rail to station of Boladilla, whence by rail direct. See Granada. From Cadiz. By^ land, riding by Gibraltar. See Gibraltar; by rail, Utrera and Bobadilla, ut supra, or by Cordova. By Sea. Lopez's steam- ers (Compania Trasatlan- tica) leave Cadiz on the 1st and 16th of each month. Time about 15 hrs. Office of the Company at Cadiz, Isabel la Catolica 3. The Compagnie Havraise Peninsulaire run a boat every ten days or so ; and the steamers of the John Hall (London) line and the Segovia Cuadra line can be recommended. The former run weekly, the latter bi-weekly, calling respectively at Gibraltar and Algeciras. For alterations in sailings, fares, and also for other less regular steam communication, see time-tables and announcements in the papers, or inquire at the offices of the various agents. From Alicante, etc. By the steamers of the Compania Trasatlantica, twice a month ; and of the Compagnie Hispano- Francaise, weekly. From Gibraltar. See Gibraltar, 6 to 8 hours' voyage. Generally speaking there is a pretty constant service between Malaga and the chief English ports (London and Liverpool, etc.), and also between Ma- laga and the ports of the Mediterranean and Atlantic Lisbon, Cadiz, Barce- lona, Cartagena, Almeria, Tarragona, Marseilles, Genoa and Leghorn, etc. etc. For particulars apply to the various agents in Malaga, Messrs. Mowbray and Co. , Pedro Rico, Zorilla, and others, or see announcements in daily papers. There are likewise larger occasional steamers to Gibraltar, Lon- don, Liverpool, Hamburg, Havre and the Galician ports, such as the Cunard boats and the steamers of the French Compagnie Transatlantic^ (Broker, Andres Reyes, Alameda 1). N.B. Unless taking a thoroughly well-known line we advise travellers to visit the steamers before taking tickets, or else they are very likely to find themselves on board small, dirty and unseaworthy crafts, with bat scanty room and comfort for human cargoes. From Carratraca, daily during the sea- son. From Honda by rail and coach daily. Inquire for through tickets at the office, opposite the Hotel de Roma. Fares 10 and 15 pesetas. Travellers may take up dil. at St. of La Pizarra, 1 hour from Malaga. Beautiful scenery in the vicinity. (See General Information : Mineral Springs.} To Churriana and El Palo. Small dil. daily. An omnibus runs to and from the Palo, one starting from each end at the hour and half hour. Climate. This city, one of the most cosmopolitan in the Peninsula, is situ- ated 36 43' lat. K, and 4 25' long. W. of Greenwich. Malaga constitutes one of the most important medical stations in the world, and must necessarily become better ap- preciated as it is better known. Situation. Its very situation is most favourable to constitute a good climate. Malaga lies opened to the fresh breezes from the E. and to the warm S., whilst it is absolutely screened from the N. by its lofty hills. To the W. it is somewhat exposed to the north-western 308 MALAGACLIMATE. terral (the French mistral and the Italian tramontana), which is ushered in through the Boca del Asno, a gap in the Sierra de Torcal ; but even that wind is not pernicious, but dry and stimulating at all seasons. TEMPERATURE OF MALAGA. According to Fahrenheit's Thermometer placed in the open street, in the shade, and facing the North. at 8 A.M. 2 P.M. II P.M. Nov. i. 8. g* 59* 65 54 60 15. 60 69 55 23. 47 61 So 30- Dec. i. 58 63 64 49 54 > 7- 56 72 56 y> IS 52 59 50 20. 47 So 51 26. 42 54 41 31- 47 52 49 Jan. i. 8. 44 52 i? 40 J 5' Si 59 49 22. 53 65 52 64 52 Feb. i. 53 64 8. 53 65 54 16. 64 5 17- 56 68 55 21. 52 59 S 2 23. 59 70 56 28. 53 56 53 It is only during June, July, August, and September, that the temperature is too warm to be agreeable, the thermometer then ranging from 72 to 84 (Fahr.) steady heat. The ordi- nary temperature is mild and moderately dry and bracing. There is nothing noxious in the atmosphere. There are absolutely no endemic diseases. The great advantage of this climate is, that invalids or delicate persons, who at home would be confined to their houses, can here be out in the open air almost every day during the winter. The above observations have been kindly communicated to the author by Dr. ShortlifF (resident physician). Winds. The most frequently ob- served are the following, in their order of rotation: E., S.E., S., S.W., W., N.E., and N.N.E. The E., or levante, is always charged with moisture, as it sweeps across the sea ; it tempers the summer heat, and is cold in winter, but not lasting then. The S.W., or vendabal, is cold and damp in winter, and is precursory of rain and storms, more especially in autumn and spring ; but during the summer it is soft and cool, and takes another name viz. leveche, or brisa del sur. The S.E. blows seldom : when it does with any violence, the sea becomes rough, and squalls come on. The K W., or terral, is the land-wind, and is often ushered in by the western. It is rare, but pro- duces great excitement in the nervous system ; and so much so, that courts of law consider it as a drconstance attenu- ante in cases of crime. During the winter it is generally cold and pierc- ing, but sometimes changes suddenly to warm. ANEMOGRAPHY OF MALAGA. * Months. rt w 3 H I W w in in in p 'A 14 January Feb. 65 40 23 17 31 25 54 76 68 85 18 90 42 33 25 14 March 70 43 44 61 61 85 57 10 April May 47 33 53 32 60 62 82 90 22 25 49 26 June July 142 64 59 42 45 63 61 53 47 39 15 42 4 37 August 70 32 59 Si 38 28 47 Sept. 112 53 30 55 58 57 44 39 Oct. 6 4 43 56 59 61 87 40 33 Nov. 36 25 S3 60 94 49 40 Dec. 30 29 14 46 77 148 46 23 Days 9 88 517 429 714 779 858 443 347 The rotatory motion of the winds is accomplished with great regularity. If the W. wind blows in the morning, it almost invariably turns towards mid- day, either to KW., K, or N.E. ; and when the evening comes in, will change again to E., then S.E., then S. In a * Deduced from the observations of nine suc- ceeding years, made and published by Doctor Martinez y Montes. MALAGA CLIMATE. 309 word, we must observe 1. The anta- gonism between the sea and land winds; 2. The prevalence of the former dur- ing spring and summer ; 3. The preva- lence of the latter in autumn and winter. The air is generally dry and bracing. Temperature. The average annual temperature observed during nine years, by Doctor Martinez y Montes, is represented by 19 14 centi- grades. Winter . Spring . Summer . Autumn . 13.120. 20.28 26.88 16.28 In winter there is only 3 difference between the highest and the lowest temperature viz. that which separates January (1173), from March (14'86). Temperature at Malaga in an Average Bed- room without Fire. Therm. Fahr. Nov. Dec. Jan. Feb. Mar. At 8 a.m. . 64-3 61 58.5 63 62.8 At 12, windows open 66.1 62.4 60.5 64.8 64-3 At 10 p.m. 65.8 62 60.3 64-5 63.8 Highest at any of those hours . Lowest during 70 69 66 66 66 the day . Greatest range at 63 52 54 62 62 10 p.m. . 4 15 ii 3 3 The mean winter temperature is 55*41 ; thus it is that Malaga is 6 warmer than Rome, 7 than Nice, 8 than Pisa, 13 than Pau, 15' than London. But it also is 6 colder than Madeira, 4" than Cairo, 3 than Malta. The mean temperature of spring is 62'55, being identical with Malta and Madeira, but 5 warmer than Rome or Pisa, and 8 than Pau. * The mean annual range is 49, many degrees less than any other place on the Continent ; that at Pau being 68 ; at Rome, 62 ; [at Nice, 60. The range of Madeira, however, is only 31 C . The mean daily range amounts to 4*1 only, and in this respect the climate is superior to any that has been noticed ; the daily range of Ma- deira being 9 4 ; of Rome, 10 ; of Nice, 9.' (Dr. E. Lee, Spain and its Climates. ) The above details are from a bro- chure on the Chapel and Cemetery, to which the writer has appended notes on the climate. These are mostly gathered from the journals of invalids, and may be entirely depended upon. It also states that * constant sunshine seems to be a characteristic of Malaga.' A day on which the sun does not shine at all is very unusual, especially in No- vember, December, and January. In February and March the air is less dry, and a few cloudy and overcast days generally occur ; but even of these days a portion is frequently bright and clear. Dryness of Air. There are not dur- ing the whole year more than ten days on which rain would prevent an invalid from taking exercise. It is the extreme dryness of the air that seems to be the most remarked feature in the climate of Malaga ; and it is this which renders it for many invalids much superior to Madeira, which, although warmer by some degrees in the middle of winter, is very damp and relaxing. (For com- parison with temperature of principal medical stations, see General Informa- tion : Climate.) From this table it will be seen that it is only 2 lower than Malta, and 5 than Madeira, for the mean winter and spring temperature- being higher than all the most cele- brated places in Europe, and, indeed, in spring it is 5^ higher than even Malta and Madeira. The thermometer seldom or never falls to ; and as tc snow, the oldest inhabitants hardly re- member to have ever seen it. It rains now but seldom ; and the evaporation is so great that the rain 310 MALAGA CLIMATE. that falls has no influence on the air, and, to be abundant, a shock, or strong contrast between the E. and W. winds, or between the E. and S.W., is neces- sary. During nine years it has rained only 262 times, being an average of 39 rainy days in the year ; the quantity fallen measuring 405 mill. Now, the number of rainy days (yearly) at Madeira is 70 ; at Rome and Naples, twice as much as at Malaga ; and at Pisa, far beyond. The sky is clear and limpid all the year round ; and the sky of the Campagna of Rome, the heaven of Greece, is nothing compared to the splendours of the gold and purple at- mosphere in which the sunset bathes this favoured city. Now, during the above nine years, the state of the at- and storms, prevalence of bright and clear weather. The houses are generally badly prepared against the heat ; the choice of a house, its aspect, etc., are therefore important. The changes be- tween diurnal and nocturnal tempera- ture are often pernicious to very deli- cate nervous constitutions. The terral produces excitation both in healthy and sick persons, and aggravates phthisical affections ; and cerebral congestions often arise, inducing, more- over, paralysis. The levanter produces different kinds of neurosis, and, by sup- pressing the transpiration, predisposes to affections of, the digestive organs. The mortality tables in the hospital for nine years show the following cases : aj^iioj. o w Oio Gastro-ataxic and typhoid fevers 90 Clear 1974 times. Apoplexy and chronic cerebral affections 64 Cloudy . 691 Phthisis 239 Rainy 262 Chronic affections of the digestive organs 332 088 87 Foggy or misty 16 in 9 years (!) Dropsy / 259 Tempestuous . 3 (!) Wounds , 142 The annual mean is 16 '5. The greater proportionate amount of rain, says Dr. Lee, falling in the autumnal months. RAIN TABLE. Observations from September 1846 to September 1851. 00 o H