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31
THE
CHINA PILOT.
THE COASTS OF CHINA, KOREA, AND TARTAR! ;
THE SEA OF JAPAN,
GULFS OF TARTAR! AND AMUR,
AND SEA OF OKHOTSK;
BABUYAN, BASHI, FORMOSA, MEIACO-SIMA, LU-CHU,
LADRONES, BONIN, JAPAN, SAGHALIN, AND
KURIL ISLANDS.
COMPILED FBOM VARIOUS SOURCES
BY JOHN W. KING, MASTER, R.N.
TRIED EDITION.
PUBLISHED BT ORDER OF THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY.
LONDON:
PRINTED FOR THE HYDROGRAPHIC OFFICE, ADMIRALTY ;
AND SOLD BY
J. D. POTTER, Agent for the Admiralty Charts,
31 POULTRY, AND 11 KING STREET, TOWER HILL.
1861.
7126.
Price Five Shillings.
A FEW WORDS OF FREQUENT OCCURRENCE IN MAPS AND CHARTS.
Chinese.
English.
Chinese.
English.
Chah Barrier.
Chah-hwang-muh . Boom .
Chau District city, islet.
Chin Town.
Chuen Channel.
Chung-yuen Mainland.
Fau-fu Buoy.
Fau-tau Roadstead.
Fu Department city.
Gau Harbour.
Hai Sea.
Hai-kau Bight, creek.
Hai-kioh Cape.
Hai-muu Estuary.
Hai-yau Gulf.
Hiah-kau Strait.
Hiang-tsun Village.
Hien, Chau District city.
Heh Black.
Ho River.
Ho-tun Lighthouse.
Hu Lake.
Hung Red.
Hwang Yellow.
Kau Mouth.
Kiang River.
Kiau Bridge.
King Capital city.
King-chi-chau ... Peninsula.
Koh Rocky peak, head-
land.
Kwang-lau Lighthouse.
Kwan Custom-house.
Kuh Valley.
Lau Tower.
Lin Forest.
Line: Chain of hills.
Ma-tau Jetty, port.
Miau Temple.
Nan South, southern.
Ni Mud.
Nui Inner.
Fau-tai Fort.
Peh North.
Peh White.
Po, Hu Lake.
Pwang-sheh Rocks.
Sha Sand.
Shan Hill, mountain.
Shan-hu Coral.
Shan-ting Mountain chain.
Shan-tau Bluff, cliff.
Sha-sien Shoal.
Sha-tan Bar.
Sheh Stone.
Sheh-tan Reef.
Shui Water.
Si West, western.
Siau-ho Rivulet.
So Town, village.
Tah Pagoda.
Tau Island.
Tau-tu Clay.
Ting, Ti-tau Promontory.
To-muh Wooded.
Tsiau-pi Cliff.
Tsui-sha Gravel.
Tsui-wei Rocky, stony.
Tung East, eastern.
Tutan Ferry.
Wan Bay.
Wi-moh ti Isthmus.
Wei Outer.
Wei Military post.
Yen- tun Beacon, buoy.
The vowels are to be sounded as in Spanish or Italian, or as in the following
English words : a and i as in ravine, e as in there, o as in go, u as in flute, except
Avhen followed by ng, as hi the words Hung (Red), Tung (East), when u is to be
sounded as in the English word Sung. The letter h following a vowel is intended to
denote that it has rather a short sound, as Kuh (Valley) is sounded shorter than Fu
(a second-class City).
ADVERTISEMENT.
THE Third Edition of the China Pilot contains Sailing Directions
for the Coasts of China, Korea, and Tartary ; for the Sea of Japan,
Gulfs of Tartary and Amur, and Sea of Okhotsh ; and, for the off-
lying islands and dangers, comprised between the north coast of
Luzon and Kamchatka, and long. 150 E. They have been compiled
from the following sources :
The Directions for Canton river, with the islands at entrance,
are from the surveys of Lieut. D. Ross, of the Bombay Marine, in
1810, Capt. E. Belcher, C.B, R.N, in 1840, and Capt. W. T. Bate,
R.N., in 1857-59 ; and the Si kiang or West River, from the survey
of Lieut. C. J. Bullock, R.N., in 1859.
The coast from Hong Kong to the Yang-tse kiang, including that
river and the Chusan archipelago, also Formosa, the Meiaco-sima,
and Lu-chu islands, are from the surveys of Capts. Kellett and
Collinson, C.B., R.N., in 1842-46. Also from Capt. Basil Hall, R.N.,
in 1816; Capt. F. W. Beechey, R.N., in 1827; George Johnson,
Master, R.N., in 1840; Capt. E. Belcher, C.B., R.N., in 1845;
Lieut. D. M. Gordon, R.N., in 1847 ; the remark books of H.M.
ships ; and the surveys of John Richards, Master, R.N., in 1854-55,
and Comdr. J. Ward, R.N., in 1858-60.
The Yellow Sea, and Gulfs of Pe-chili and Liau-tung, are from the
voyage of H.M. Ships Alceste and Lyra, and the explorations of
Lieut. D. Ross in 1816 ; also from the surveys of Ccmdr. Ward,
Lieut. Bullock, and assistants, and the remark books of H.M. ships
up to the present date.
The north coast of the Yellow Sea, and the west and south coasts
of Korea, are yet but imperfectly explored. The description is from
the voyage of the Alceste audLyra in 1816, the ship Lord Amherst
in 1832, H.M. ships Blonde and Pylades in 1840, and the French
frigate Virginie in 1856 ; Quelpart island and the Port Hamiltor
group were surveyed by Capt. Belcher in 1845.
The coasts of the Japan Sea/the Gulfs of Tartary and Amur, and
the Sea of Okhotsk, were but little known until visited by H.M.
ships in 1854-57. Capt. W. R Broughton, R.N., in 1797 sailed
along the coasts of Tartary and Korea, and discovered the harbour
of Chosan, which, in 1858, was surveyed by Comdr. Ward. From
hence the description of the Korean coast to D'Anville gulf is from
the voyage of the Russian frigate Pallas in 1854.
D'Anville gulfj Victoria bay, and the coasts of the Gulf of Tartary,
are from the surveys and remark books of officers of H.M. ships in
1854-57; and the Gulf of Amur from the Russian survey in 1849-
54. Siau Wuhu and St. Vladimir bays were surveyed by Comdr.
Ward in 1859.
The description of the off-lying islands and dangers are from
various sources, but chiefly from Krusenstern in 1804 ; Basil Hall
in 1816; Freycinet in 1819 ; Beechey in 1827 ; Siebold in 1828 ;
Belcher and Collinson in 1845 ; Cecille in 1846 ; Gordon in 1847 ;
the American Expedition to Japan in 1853-54 ; Richards in 1855 ;
the remark books of H.M. ships, and documents in Hydrographic
Office ; Findlay's Pacific Directory ; and the Nautical Magazine.
As this work embraces a large extent of coast and many islands
and dangers which have been but imperfectly explored, it must
necessarily be considered incomplete, and will furnish frequent
occasions for revision and amendment. We give greater publicity
to these requirements with the hope that Officers, both of the
Royal and Mercantile Navy, will transmit to the Secretary of
the Admiralty a notice of any errors or omissions they may dis-
cover, or any fresh information they may obtain, with a view to its
improvement for the general benefit of the mariner.
I. W.
Hydrographic Office, Admiralty, London,
April 1861.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
MONSOONS, TYPHOONS, GALES, AND TIDES IN THE CHINA SEA, AND
ON THE EAST COAST OF CHINA ; AND GENERAL REMARKS ON
MAKING PASSAGES.
Page
South-west and North-east monsoons - .... 1_3
Typhoons. Typhoon harbours - - 3-5
Gales. Currents in both monsoons. Tides - - 6-9
Passages on East coast of China - - - 9-13
CHAPTER II.
APPROACHES TO CANTON RIVER, INCLUDING HONG KONG. CHU
KIANG OR CANTON RIVER, AND SI KIANG OR WEST RIVER.
Islands and anchorages in Great West channel to Canton river. Broadway
river. Typa anchorage. Macao harbour and road. Cum-sing-muii
harbour - - 14-21
Islands, channels, and anchorages, from Great Ladrone island to Hong
Kong, and to Canton river - - 21-50
Hong Kong. Tytam bay and harbour - - 33, 34
Lantao island. Cap-sing-mun passage. Urmston bay. Lintin island - 35-38
Directions from Singapore to Hong Kong and Canton river - - 40-50
Canton river. Directions through Boca Tigris and Bremer channel.
Dangers in the river between Boca Tigris and Canton. Small bar.
First and Second bars. Whampoa anchorage and docks. Canton;
exports. Directions from Boca Tigris to Canton - 51-58
Si kiang or West river. Channels leading to the Si kiang from Canton
river. Shao-king to Wu-chu fu. Tides, currents, and directions - 58-62
CHAPTER III.
EAST COAST OF CHINA. HONG KONG TO AMOY.
Hong Kong to Breaker point. Tathong channel. Ninepin group. Port
Shelter. Rocky harbour. Mirs bay. Tuni-ang group. Bias bay,
Harlem bay. Sam-chau inlet. Pedro Blanco rock. Hong-hai bay.
Tysami inlet. Chelang point. Hie-che-chin bay. Cupchi point.
Tungao road. Breaker point. Tides .... 63-83
Breaker point to Amoy. Tong-lae point. Hai-mun bay and river. Hope
VI CONTENTS.
Page
bay. Cape of Good Hope. River Han. Namao island. Lamock islands.
Challum bay. Shallow bay. Chauan bay. Owick bay. Jokako point.
Brothers rocks. Tongsang harbour. Rees pass. Hu-tau bay. Black
head. Red bay. Chapel island. Merope shoals. Tingtae bay. Tides.
Islands at entrance to Amoy. Amoy island and city. Amoy harbour - 83-104
CHAPTER IV.
EAST COAST OF CHINA. AMOY TO THE WHITE DOG ISLANDS,
INCLUDING THE PESCADORES.
Amoy to White Dog islands. Quemoy island and bank. Leeo-lu bay.
Hui-i-tau bay. Chimmo bay. Chin-chu harbour. Pyramid point.
Port Matheson. Meichen sound. Pinghai bay. Ockseu islands.
Lam-yit island and channel. Hungwha sound and channel. Hai-tan
island and strait. Turnabout island. White Dog islands - - 105-122
Pescadores islands. Formosa banks - - 122-129
CHAPTER V.
EAST COAST OF CHINA. WHITE DOG ISLANDS TO NIMROD SOUND.
River Min to Wan-chu river. River Min. Matsou island. Changchi
island. Alligator island. Ting-hae bay. Sam-sah inlet. Double
Peak island. Fuh-ning bay. Pih-seang islands. Lishan bay. Tae
islands. Pih-quan and Nam-quan harbours. Namki islands. Fong-
whang group ; Bullock harbour. Wan-chu river - - 130-145
Wanchu river to Nimrod sound. Lotsin bay. Kemong harbour.
Taow-pung island. Tai-chau islands, bay, and river. Barren bay.
Montagu island. San-mun bay. Sheipu road and harbour. Kweshan
islands. Harbour Rouse. Buffaloes Nose island. Nimrod sound - 146-157
CHAPTER VI.
EAST COAST OF CHINA. NIMROD SOUND TO THE YANG-TSE KIANG,
INCLUDING THE CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO.
Chusan archipelago. Luhwang island. Duffield, Gough, and Roberts
passes. Beak head, Vernon, and Sarah Galley channels. Chusan
island. Winds and weather. Ting-hai harbour. Directions to Ting-
hai harbour through Tower Hill, Melville, and Deer island channels.
Anchorage under Elephant island. Ching Keang harbour. Silver
island. Ta-outse harbour. Shaaon harbour. Directions from Shaaon
harbour through Kwei channel, and channel north of Lan-sew.
N.E. and East coasts of Chusan. Chinkeamun harbour. Lan-sew
bay. Video island. Fisherman s group. Volcano and Saddle islands.
Parker, Rugged, and Gutzlaff islands. Tides - - 158-184
Kintang channel. Just-in-the-Way rock. Yung river. Ning-po fu
Tsie-kie. Yuyao; Directions from Ting-hai harbour to Yung river
through Kintang channel - ... 184-187
CONTENTS. Vii
Page
River Yung to the Yang-tse kiang. Hang-chu bay. Seshan islands.
Chapu bay. The Yang-tse kiang. Tides. Directions to the Yang-tse
kiang east of Chusan archipelago. Directions for Wusung river - 188-201
Yang-tse kiang ; Wusung to Hankau ; Harvey point ; Lang-shau cross-
ing ; Silver island. Nanking. Han-kau. Directions from Han-kau
to Wusung - - 201-216
CHAPTER VII.
EAST COAST OF CHINA. WHANG-HAi OR YELLOW SEA ; GULFS OF
PE-CHILI AND LIAU-TUNG ; AND WEST AND SOUTH COASTS OF
KOREA.
The Yellow sea. Whang ho, or Yellow river. Kyau-chu, or Glue city.
Shan Tung. Wei-hai-wei or O'ie-hai-oie harbour. Chi-fau or Yen-tai
harbour. Teng-chau fu. Miau-tau islands and strait - 217-231
Gulf of Pe-chili. South coast, from Miau-tau strait to the Peh-tang ho.
Sha-lui-tien islands and banks. The Tien-tsin ho or Pei ho ; tides.
Winds and weather. Climate -231-236
Gulf of Liau-tung. Port Adams. Hulu shan bay. Fu-chu bay. Kai-
chu fu. Niuchwang fu. Great Wall of China. Ning-hai. Coast
between the Great Wall and the Pei ho. The Peh-tang ho - - 237-246
North coast of Yellow sea. Liau-tie-shan head. Encounter rock. Ta-
lien-hwan bay. Blonde island - 246-250
West and south coasts of Korea. Chodo island. Joachim, Caroline,
and Deception bays. Daniels island. Sir James Hall group. Mar-
joribanks harbour and Shoal gulf. Basil bay, Korean archipelago.
South coast of Korea. Quelpart island. Port Hamilton - - 250-265
CHAPTER VIII.
PRATAS ISLAND AND REEF ; NORTH COAST OF LUZON ; AND
BABUYAN, BASHl, FORMOSA, MEIACO-SIMA, AND LU-CHU ISLANDS.
Pratas island and reef ; tides, anchorage, and caution - - 266-268
North coast of Luzon. Port San Vicente. Directions for west coast of
Luzon - - 268-2/0
Babuyan islands. Musa bay. Port San Pio Quinto - - 271-2/3
Batan or Bashi islands. San Domingo bay - - 274-277
Gadd Rock. Vele-Rete rocks. Botel-Tobago sima. Little Botel-Tobago
sima - - - - 278,279
Formosa or Tai-wan island. West coast of Formosa. Lambay island.
Leang-kiaou bay. Pong-li. Port Ta-kau-kon. Vuyloy shoal. Port
Kok-si-kon. North coast of Formosa. Tam-siu, Ke-lung, and Coal
harbours. East coast of Formosa. Kaleewan river. Sau-o bay.
Chock-e-day village. Black rock bay - - 279-294
Samasana island. Harp island. Pinnacle, Craig, and Agincourt islands.
Hoa-pin-su, Pinnacle, and Ti-a-usu islands. Raleigh rock - - 294-296
Vlll CONTENTS.
Page
Meiaco-sima group, Kumi island. Ku-kien-san, Pa-chung-san, and
Tai-pin-san islands. Broughton bay. Port Haddington. Port Had-
dington to Tai-pin-san - 296-301
Lu-chu or Liu-kiu islands. Napha-kiang road. Directions from Hong
Kong to Lu-chu islands. Directions into Napha-kiang road. Deep
bay. Suco island. Port Onting or Melville. Shah bay. Barrow bay 301-309
CHAPTER IX.
ISLANDS SOUTH-EAST, EAST, AND NORTH OF THE LU-CHTJ GROUP ;
AND OFF THE SOUTH-EAST COAST OF NIPON.
Caution to be used in navigating between Formosa and the Mariana and
Bonin islands - - 310
Island south-east of Lu-chu. Borodino islands. Bishop rocks. Rasa
and Kendrick islands. Douglas reef. Lindsay island. Mariana or
Ladrones islands - - 310-320
Islands east of Lu-chu. Los Jardines, Sebastian Lobos, Forfana, Vol-
cano, Mai abrigo, Arzobispo or Bonin islands - - 320-324
Islands north of Lu-chu. Yori, Yeirabu, Tok, Ivvo, Oho, and Kikai
islands. Germantown reef. Sandon rock. Linschoten or Cecille
archipelago. Powhattan reef. Trio rocks. Kuro sima. Ingersoll
rocks - --- - 324-328
Islands off south-east coast of Nipon. Lots wife rock. Ponafin, Smith,
Bayonnaise, Onanga and Fatsiziu islands. Broughton rock. Meac
and Mecoura islands. Redfield rocks. Kozu, Sikini, Nee, Utoma,
To, and Oho islands. Portsmouth breakers - - 328-330
Winds and weather and typhoons between Formosa and the Bonin and
Japan islands - - 331, 332
CHAPTER X.
JAPAN AND KURIL ISLANDS, AND SOUTH-EAST COAST OF
KAMCHATKA.
Japan islands ; description ; climate ; winds - - 333-365*
Kuro-siwo or Japan stream. Van Dieman strait - 335, 336
South-east coast of Nipon. Ohosaka bay. Port Fiogo. Enora, Heda,
Arari, and Tago bays. Simoda harbour. Yedo bay - - 337-345
East coast of Nipon. Directions from Yedo bay to Tsugar strait - 346
West coast of Nipon. Bittern rocks. Oga-sima peninsula. Tabu and
Sado islands. Port Niegata. Yutsi sima. Cape Noto. Oki and
Mino islands. Cape Louisa - - 346-350
West coast of Kiusiu. Colnet, Obree, Wilson, Ykitsk, Harbour, and
Firado islands. Meac-sima group. Pallas rocks. Udsi sima. Re-
tribution rocks. Kosiki and Tsukurase islands. Nagasaki harbour -351-358
Tsugar strait. Hakodadi harbour. Currents, tides, and directions - 358-364
East coast of Yezo. Volcano bay and Endermo harbour - 365
Kuril islands - -.___ 365-3/0
South-east coast of Kamchatka. Avatcha bay. Petropaulski harbour - 3/0-375
CONTENTS. IX
CHAPTER XI.
SEA OF JAPAN ; GULF OF TARTARY ; GULF AND RIVER AMUR
SAGHALIN ISLAND ; LAPEROUSE STRAIT ; AND SEA OF OK-
HOTSK.
Page
Sea of Japan. Winds and currents. Sentinel island. Tsus sima.
Matu sima. Tako sima. Liancourt and Waywoda rocks - - 376-3/9
East coast of Korea. Chosan harbour. Unkofsky bay. Ping-hai har-
bour. Broughton bay. Yung-hing bay. Port Lazaref. Goshkevich
bay. Tumen river - - 3/9-391
Coast of Tartar)'. D'Anville gulf. Capricieuse bay. Napoleon road.
Port Louis. Gulf of Guerin. Port Bruce. Napoleon gulf. Hornet
bay. Port Michael Seymour. St. Vladimir, Shelter, Sybille, Pique,
and Bullock bays - 392-400
Gulf of Tartary. Winds, fogs, and tides. Suffren bay. Fish river.
Barracouta harbour. Castries and Jonquiere bays - - 400-406
Gulf and River Amur - - 406-408
Laperouse strait. Aniwa bay. Tides and currents - 409-412
East and north coasts of Saghalin island - 412-416
Sea of Okhotsk. Salutation bay. Port Aian. Okhotsk harbour.
Currents - 41 7-420
Tide Table and Table of Positions .... -421-430
2 CHINA SEA AND EAST COAST OF CHINA. [CHAIM.
The South-west monsoon is strongest, and least liable to change, in
June, July, and August, at which period there is at times much rain and
cloudy weather all over the China Sea ; in these months, and also in
May, sudden hard squalls blow sometimes out of the Gulf of Siam,* as far
as Pulo Condore and Pulo Sapata. When dense clouds are perceived
to rise, indicating the approach of these squalls, sail ought to be reduced
without delay.
From the Gulf of Siam to Cape Padaran, the South-west monsoon blows
nearly parallel to the coast ; and if close in, a light wind from the land
is at times experienced in the night, succeeded by a short interval of
calm on the following morning. The monsoon breeze then sets in, and
generally continues brisk during the day. These land and sea breezes
prevail most on the coast of Cochin China, from Cape Padaran northward
to the Gulf of Tong King ; for the sea wind dies away almost every
evening on this coast during the South-west monsoon, and a land breeze
comes off in the night, although not at a regular hour. This is followed
by calms or light airs, which frequently continue until noon ; the .sea
breeze then sets in from the south-eastward.
In March and April there are land and sea breezes on the coast of
Luzon, with fine weather ; but after the South-west monsoon sets in
strong in June, and from that time until it abates in October, the weather
is mostly cloudy ; and the winds blowing from the sea upon that coast
are generally accompanied with much rain.
On the south coast of China, the winds during the South-west monsoon
prevail frequently at South and S.S.E. About Formosa, and between it
and the coast, north-easterly winds often happen in July, August, and
September.
The NORTH-EAST MONSOOKT usually begins in the northern part
of the China Sea about the end of September or early in October ; Imt
in the southern part it seldom blows steadily till November; light
southern or variable breezes prevailing the greater part of October. This
monsoon generally sets in with a storm, which sometimes comes down
without warning, and with a violence that has exposed several vessels to
great danger : therefore when the monsoon is about to change, they should
avoid anchoring in exposed positions, and weigh instantly if caught, as
the swell rises with such rapidity as to cause a difficulty in getting the
anchor. The first burst of the monsoon frequently lasts a week or 10
days. The weather in some years is settled and fine, during September
* For the winds and weather in the Gulf of Siam, see China Pilot, Appendix No. 1,
page 20.
CHAP, i.] MONSOONS. TYPHOONS. 3
and October ; but the equinox is a very precarious period, for within a
few days of it storms are likely to happen.
In November, the North-east monsoon generally prevails; but it blows
more steadily, and with greater strength, in December and January. The
weather is frequently cloudy, with much rain and a turbulent sea, in these
months ; particularly about Pulo Sapata, and from thence to the entrance
of Singapore strait ; there are also considerable intervals of fine weather.
On the coast of Palawan the winds are variable in October, Novem-
ber, and the early part of December, by which vessels pass along that
coast either to the north-east or south-west, but the weather is often
dark, rainy, and cloudy. On the coast of Luzon the winds are frequently
variable during this monsoon, generally from the northward and north-
eastward ; but they veer to the north-westward and westward at times,
and then blow strong, with cloudy weather and rain. In the Gulf of
Tong King, in November, there are sometimes faint land breezes close to
the coast ; but the North-east monsoon prevails along the coast of Cochin
China, as far southward as Cape Padaran, generally from September or
the early part of October, to the beginning or middle of April.
In February the strength of the North-east monsoon abates. During
this month and March it blows moderately, with steady weather all over
the China Sea, inclining to land and sea breezes on the coast of Luzon.
On the south coast of China, when the North-east monsoon prevails, the
Avinds blow mostly from E.N.E. parallel to the shore ; they veer, and
blow off the land at tunes, and also from the south-eastward, but there are
seldom any regular land or sea breezes on that coast.
Strong gales are frequently experienced on the eastern coast of China,
in the North-east monsoon with a rising barometer ; and a low baro-
meter in the same season will generally be found to indicate a southerly
wind. The barometer differs as much in some years as an inch during the
two monsoons. The mean barometer from October 1847 to March 1848
was 30 '33 ; while from April to September 1848 it was only 29 '53.
During the height of the monsoon the wind at night will be found
frequently to draw off the land, affording an opportunity for a vessel to
make a good board.
TYPHOONS. These dangerous tempests occur in the northern part
of the China Sea, near Formosa, the Bashi islands, and the north end of
Luzon ; also to the eastward of those islands, and between Formosa and
the Japan archipelago. They do not extend into the Formosa channel,
there being no record as yet of any having reached Amoy, but they are
found to the northward of Formosa ; one having visited the Chusan archi-
pelago in 1843, much to the astonishment of its inhabitants, who stated
A2
4 CHINA SEA AND EASI COAST OF CHINA. [CHAP. i.
that such a thing had not occurred for 50 years. Some violent storms
have also visited Shanghai, but it is yet doubtful whether these are
Cyclones or not. To the eastward of Formosa they extend as far as the
Bonin islands ; but the high mountain chain which runs nearly the whole
length of the former island, and rises from 5,000 to 10,000 feet above the
sea, must divert, not only their curve, but their direction. They usually
blow with the greatest fury near the land : as the' distance is increased
to the southward from the coast of China, their violence generally abates,
and they seldom reach beyond lat. 14 N., although a severe gale has been
experienced at times two or three degrees farther to the southward.
These tempests are liable to happen in both monsoons ; but they are
usually less severe in the China Sea, if they occur in May, November,
or December ; although in' the vicinity of Formosa and the Bashi islands
there are sometimes furious gusts in November. From December to May
they seldom or never happen ; of late years, those that have been ex-
perienced in June and July were the most violent ; many vessels have
been dismasted and sustained other damage by them. The mouths of
August, September, and October are also subject to these tempests. The
September equinox is a very pi'ecarious period, particularly if the change
or perigee of the moon coincide with the equinox : when this was the
case, Typhoons happened several years at the equinox in September, on
the coast of China, and many ships were dismasted on the 21st or 22ud of
that month.
To be able to prognosticate the coming of these tempests Avould be very
useful to navigators, but this cannot be done with certainty, for they
frequently commence without giving much indication of their approach.
The clouds having a red aspect is not a certain warning of the approach
of a Typhoon; for, at the rising, but more particularly at the setting
of the sun, the clouds, especially those opposite to it in settled weather,
are sometimes tinged with a deep red colour by the reflected light.
Neither is an irregular swell a good criterion to judge of their approach ;
for near the coast of China a cross swell frequently prevails during
steady settled weather. A hazy atmosphere, preventing land from being
seen at great distances, is no unfavourable sign on the coast of China;
for this is generally its state in medium or settled weather. A serene
sky, with the horizon remarkably clear, should not be considered an
indication of a continuance of favourable weather : for a series of fine
weather and calms, favouring an increase of heat above the mean tem-
perature, is likely to be succeeded by a Typhoon. When the horizon is
very clear in some parts, and the summits of the hills or islands obscured
by dense black clouds, there is some irregularity in the atmosphere, and
stormy weather may be apprehended ; but in reality, Typhoon? are
CHAP, i.] TYPHOONS.
preceded by any certain sign or indication. Marine barometers
tu afford the best means of anticipating their approach ; for, on the
south coast of China, there is a greater fall of the mercury than might be
expected within the tropics.
Many vessels have been driven from the entrance of Canton river to
the Mandarins Cap, and even to the Taya islands near Hainan, during
Typhoons ; for among the islands, and near this coast, these tempests
generally commence between X. W. and North, then veer suddenly to N.E.
and East, frequently blowing with inconceivable fury, and raising the sea
in turbulent pyramids, Avhich impinge violently against each other ; the
current at such times runs strong to the westward. From eastward, the
wind veers to the south-eastward and southward, and then becomes
moderate.
In some years, no Typhoon happens on the south coast of China ; at
other times, two or three of these storms have been experienced in one
year ; but fortunately their fury is seldom of long continuance. There is,
however, now considerably less danger in meeting these furious tempests,
owing to the skill and research of Mr. W. C. Redfield, Colonel Sir William
Reid, Mr. H. Piddington, and others who have collated a vast number
of facts bearing upon the subject. It is found that their progress is,
governed by a general law, and consequently the vortex can be avoided,
and the vessel's safety assured by attention to a practical rule, which is
this :* Look to the wind's eye, set its bearing by the compass, and
the 8th point to the right thereof, in North latitude will be the bearing of
the centre of the storm. For example, suppose the vessel to be in lat.
18 N., the wind East, and the barometer and sky indicating a coming
gale, then, look at the compass, take the 8th point to the right of East,
and South is the bearing of the brewing storm, if it be of a revolving
type. In this case, the vessel will be on the northern part of the
storm-field.
In the northern part of the China Sea, a low barometer for several
days previous, an ugly threatening appearance, and heavy swell, will
give sufficient warning, and, provided it be taken, will enable vessels
to get sufficient sea room so as to avoid the centre of the storm, or to
secure safe anchorage.
TYPHOON HARBOURS. The following is a list of anchorages on the
east coast of China where vessels will lie secure in a Typhoon or veering
gale : Tam-tu island ; Mirs bay ; Ty-sami inlet (for 12 feet draught) ;
Namoa island (abreast Stewart's house) ; Tongsang harbour ; Amoy
* See Remarks on Revolving Storms, published by order of the Lords Commissioners
of the Admiralty, 1853 ; also the Horn Book of Storms by H. Piddington, Esq., 1848.
6 CHINA SEA AND EAST COAST OF CHINA. [CHAP. i.
harbour ; Quemoy island ; Pescadores islands (Makung harbour) ; Chin-
chew harbour (within the Boot sand) ; Hungwha sound ; southern entrance
to Haetan strait ; Pih-quan harbour ; Bullock harbour ; Kelung harbour
(Formosa) ; Chusan archipelago (Ting-hai outer and inner harbours,
Chinkeamun and Chin Keang harbours, Fisher or Chang-pih island, and
Ta-outse on the north-west side of Kintang).
sometimes blow steadily from E.N.E. or N.E. several days at a
time, in September or October, near the south coast of China. In the same
months they are liable to happen on the west coast of Luzon. Here, they
mostly commence at North or N.W., and veer to West, S.W., or South,
blowing strong from all these directions, with heavy rain, and a cross
turbulent sea ; but they seldom continue long.
Strong N.E. gales have been sometimes experienced on the coast of
China during the South-west monsoon ; in one of these a vessel, after
making the Great Ladrone July 16th, 1802, was driven by the 20th
westward to the Mandarins Cap, with strong gales, hard squalls, and
the current setting from 1 to 2 knots per hour westward. The north-east
wind continued nine days, which obliged her to stand out to sea, and she
did not arrive at Macao until the 26th.
In May, .June, July, and August, severe gales are at times experienced
in the north-western part of the China Sea, particularly between lat. 14 N.
and Hainan island, with the gulf of Tong King open. These gales
generally begin at N.N.W. or N.W. and blow with violence out of the
gulf, accompanied by dark weather and a deluge of rain : from N.W. they
veer to West and S.W., still blowing strong, and abate as they veer more
southerly. When these N.W. gales are blowing in the vicinity of Hainan
and the coast of Cochin China, strong S.W. or southerly gales generally
prevail at the same time, in the middle of the China Sea.
CURRENTS in SOUTH-WEST MONSOON. The currents in the
China Sea are very changeable, their direction and velocity depending
much upon local circumstances. Late in April, or early in May, they
generally begin to set to the northward, in the south and middle parts of
the sea, and continue to run in a north-easterly direction until September,
while the South-west monsoon is strong ; but they are not constant in this
monsoon, for at times, when the wind is moderate or light, the currents
are liable to change and set in various directions. After the strength of
the monsoon has abated, there is often little or no current in the open sea,
running to the north-eastward ; but sometimes its direction is to the
southward.
Along the coast of Cochin China, from Pulo Obi to Cape Padaran, the
current sets mostly to the E.N.E., parallel to the shore, from April to the
CHAP. I.] TYPHOON HARBOURS. GALES. CURRENTS. 7
middle of October ; and during the same period its direction is generally
lo the northward along the east coast of the Malay peninsula, from the
entrance of Singapore strait to the Gulf of Siam. To the northward of
Cape Padarau there is but little current in the South-west monsoon, near
the Cochin-China coast ; for, from thence to the Gulf of Tong King, u
small drain is sometimes found setting to the northward, or at other times to
the southward. When a gale happens to blow out of the latter gulf from
the north-west and westward, the current at the same time sets generally
to the south-west or southward, in the vicinity of the Paracel islands and
reefs, or where these gales are experienced ; and this current running
obliquely, or contrary to the wind, a turbulent and high sea is thereby
produced.
On the south coast of China the current is much governed by the wind ;
when strong S.W. winds prevail, it runs along shore to the eastward, but
seldom strong. Near, and amongst the islands, westward of Macao, there
is generally a westerly current, occasioned by the freshes from Canton
river, which set in that direction ; frequently sweeping along the islands
from Macao to St. John between W.S.W. and W.N.W., about 1 or 2 knots
per hour. This westerly current is, however, not always constant in the
South-west monsoon, for. it slacks at times ; then a weak tide may some-
times be experienced running eastward.
On the coasts of Luzon and Palawan, the current generally sets north-
ward in the South-west monsoon, but frequently there is no current, and
near these coasts it seldom runs strong. Near the Bashi islands, it
sometimes sets to the eastward when strong westerly winds prevail ; but
generally strong to the northward, or between N.N.W. and N.E.
The strength of the current on the eastern coast of China increases with
the freshness and duration of the monsoon, varying from one to as much as
3 and even 4 knots per hour ; and this requires to be especially guarded
against when hove-to off a port or running for one in thick weather. Thus
a number of vessels in the South-west monsoon have run into Hu-i-tau
1 iay instead of Amoy ; and again in the North-east monsoon have picked
themselves up off Eed bay instead of Chapel island. The current will
slack a little at particular tunes of tide, but during the survey of this coast
in 1843, it was seldom found to run to the south in the southerly
monsoon, or to the north in the other. At the Pescadores islands, in the
mouth of August, a current was sometimes experienced of 4 knots per
hour, running to the north, whilst with the ebb it slackened for two or
three hours, but seldom ceased entirely.
CTTKRENTS in WORTH-EAST MONSOON". The current in the
China Sea, during the North-east monsoon, generally, runs to the south-
8 CHINA SEA AND EAST COAST OF CHINA. [CUAI-. i.
westward, with a velocity depending on the strength of the wind. When
the force of the monsoon is abated, or during moderate and light breezes,
there is often little or no current.
In the western parts of the China Sea, along the coasts of Cochin
China and the Malay peninsula, the current generally begins to run
to the southward about the middle of October (sometimes sooner on the
former coast), and continues until April. During the month of March
its direction is constantly to the southward about Pulo Aor, with light
easterly winds and calms at times. On the coast of Cochin China, and
adjacent to Hainan island, a current varying from South to S.W., com-
mences sometimes about the middle of September ; near the land, from
lat. 15 N. to 11 or 11 -| N., it increases in strength ; but its rate
decreases in proportion as it flows southward. During the prevalence
of the North-east monsoon, from about lat. 14 N. to Cape Padaran,
the current near the coast frequently runs 40 or 50, and sometimes 60
miles to the southward in 24 hours ; the rate, however, is variable, and
it is only in the limits above mentioned that it is occasionally so strong,
for its strength abates at Cape Padaran, and runs with less velocity
to the S.W., towards the entrance of the Gulf of Siam.
On the south coast of China, the current during the North-east monsoon
runs almost constantly to the W.S.W., nearly parallel to the land ; and
sometimes with inconceivable rapidity, when a Typhoon or a storm
happens. At the distance of 20 or 30 leagues from the coast, it seldom
runs so strong as near it ; and in 30 or 40 fathoms soundings there is much
less current than in shoal water, near the shore and amongst the islands.
The westerly current sometimes slacks, and, contiguous to the land, is
succeeded by a kind of tide.
Between the island of Formosa and the China coast the current runs to
the southward during the North-east monsoon. When strong N.E. winds
prevail, its direction is generally to the S.W. or southward, between the
south end of Formosa and the north end of Luzon ; but here, in light
variable winds, it often sets to the northward. On the west coast of Luzon
the current is changeable, sometimes setting southward along the coast, at
other times northward. On the coast of Palawan it is also mutable,
governed by the prevailing winds, but seldom runs strong in any direction,
unless impelled by severe gales. To the eastward of Formosa, about Botel-
tobago sima, it frequently runs strong to the northward and north-
eastward, so early as the 1st of March ; and although changeable at
times, it sets mostly in that direction during the South-west monsoon ; and
in the opposite direction during the North-east monsoon.
TIDES. The tidal wave strikes upon the eastern coast of China, from
Hong Kong to the Yang-tse kiang, nearly at the same period ; it being
CHAP, i.] CURRENTS. TIDES. 9
high water on full and change days in the neighbourhood of the Lema
islands, at about 8h. 30m., and at the outer islands of the Chusan
archipelago it is an hour later. The rise and fall, however, increases
considerably to the northward ; probably owing to the obstruction which
the wave receives from the Philippine islands ; and in some instances the
diurnal inequality is great. The establishment for Hong Kong and other
places along the coast is given in the body and at the end of this work,
and it will be perceived that to the eastward of Hong Kong, and as far
as Breaker point, the tides are irregular aud weak; the current occasioned
by the monsoon overcoming them.
After passing Breaker point, the coast trends more northerly, and
the flood stream will be found useful to vessels bound to the northward.
The rise and fall increases, passing from 7 feet at Namoa island to 12 feet
at Tongsang, and 20 feet at Amoy. Between Amoy and the river Min,
the rise of the tide varies from 16 to 18 feet at the springs, and the flood
enters on the north as well as on the south side of Hai-tan strait.
To the northward of the Min, the flood sets more determiuately to the
north ; it seldom, however (unless off headlands or in narrow channels),
overcomes the current caused by the monsoon, but has the effect of
slackening it.
Throughout the Chusan archipelago and the estuaries to the north,
great care and attention to the tides is necessary ; particular instructions
for this purpose will be found in the body of the work ; and it only
remains here to caution the navigator that, as his vessel approaches the
coast to the northward of Chusan the tides increase in rapidity, and unless
precaution is taken, she will be set among the small islets of this rugged
archipelago.
GENERAL REMARKS ox MAKING PASSAGES ox EASTERN COAST OF CHINA.
PASSAGE EAST of FORMOSA A vessel bound from Hong Kong
to Ning-po, or Shanghai, or even to Fu-chau fu, during the North-
east monsoon, should be in good condition for contending with rough
weather and for carrying sail. The best plan appears to be, to
work along the coast as far as Breaker point, and then stretch
across to the south end of Formosa, and work up eastward of that
island. By remaining in with the coast of China, she will have the
advantage of the land wind at night, of smoother water, and the ebb-tide
'out of the deep bays, which will generally be under her lee on the
starboard tack, and in the event of its blowing too hard to make weigh,
there are numerous convenient anchorages. It will be prudent to keep
within 10 miles of the coast, to avoid being swept to the southward whilst
standing off the land ; but as this cannot be done at night without risk,
10 EAST COAST OF CHINA. [CHAP. i.
a vessel should, if possible, anchor in the evening, and weigh in the
middle watch, when the wind, generally coming more off the land, will
enable her to make a good board on the off shore tack. By passing
eastward of Formosa, also a heavy short sea in the Formosa channel
will be avoided, as well as the constant set to the southward during
this season.
After rounding the south end of Formosa, off which there is generally a
troublesome sea, a vessel should make short tacks, if requisite, to keep
within the influence of the Kuro-siwo or Japan stream (page 335), which
has sometimes been found running to the northward at the rate of 30 or 40
miles per day.
There are no harbours on the east coast of Formosa, except Su-au bay,
towards the north end of the island, and deep water will be found close
to the land. The mountains rise almost immediately from the sea ; their
sides in some places are cultivated, and a good many houses Avill be seen.
II.M.S. Plover anchored on an uneven bottom in Black Rock bay, the
vessel swinging from 13 to 22 fathoms, and rode out a gale from the
S.W. ; but it is by no means to be recommended.
Having weathered the north end of Formosa, it Avill be still advisable io
keep to the eastward, and not approach the continent until the parallel
of lat. 301 N. is gained. Should, however, a vessel be driven to the
westward, she may always calculate on smooth water, and be able to
tide it through the southern part of the Chusan archipelago ; and if
disabled and in want of spars, she can remain at the southern side of
Duffield Pass, and supply herself from the Fu-chau wood junks.
AMOY to RIVER ittiw. If bound to Amoy and the ports between
that place and the river Min, a vessel will generally find a difficulty in
getting round Breaker point ; for the tide here is of no use, and all there
is to assist is the likelihood that the wind will draw off the land after
midnight, when, by being inshore, a good board can be made, and
possibly the Cape of Good Hope reached. Hai-mun bay cannot be
recommended, but still it would be better to anchor there than to bo
carried round the point. In this case, should West hill be obscured, run
in under the point, lower a boat, and let her find the sunken rook
(page 84), and then come in with good weigh to windward of Purkyns
rock, if drawing less than 13 feet, and shoot up round the boat into
Fort bay.
Having reached the Cape of Good Hope, the flood will assist a v<
to round it, and the ebb out of the Han river will be a weather tide ; in
the latter case, and not intending to go inside Namoa island, endeavour
to get along the south side of the island, where there is an eddy tide, and
CHAP. I.] REMARKS ON MAKING PASSAGES. 1 1
anchor in South bay, should the weather prove too bad to proceed
on the flood : both tides will be found strong off Three Chimney point,
and the same may be said of Jokako point, round which vessels should
take the first of the flood on the port tack.
Farther northward about Rees island, the flood tide in strong winds
causes an uneasy sea which will distress a vessel much. Red and
Ting-tae bays will be found good stopping places ; and the latter should
be preferred, though at the loss of 2 or 3 miles, to anchoring in an
exposed position in the entrance to Amoy harbour ; as when the N.E.
Avinds freshen off here on the flood, they generally bring a mist in with
them, which makes it difficult to find the entrance, and at the same time
a vessel will have trouble to get out of the harbour against the tide.
To the northward of Amoy are Leeo-lu, and Hu-i-tau bays, both of
Avhich afford good shelter. Chimmo bay is not so good ; but with a
long scope of good ground tackle vessels may ride in it. The current
in the monsoon overcomes the tide here ; and advantage must be taken
of every slant of wind, bearing in mind that it is likely to draw off the
land in the middle watch, and in the event of anchoring for shelter this
is the time to start, should the wind moderate : by waiting for daylight
vessels lose their offing ; and will have to make an off-shore board at a
loss. The fogs are at times thick, but the lead is not a bad guide,
as the soundings generally change from sand to mud as the shore is
approached. There is also fair anchorage under Pyramid point, but not
so good as that under the South Yit ; and if the vessel is looking up
North or anything east of it, the ebb out of Meichen sound will be of
assistance.
From the Lam-yit islands or the south end of Hai-tan strait to the
White Dogs is beyond doubt the most difficult part of the passage.
With steamers the strait will afford the best route ; but sailing VCSM !.-
should decidedly keep outside, and stretch over to the north-west coast
of Formosa (page 287), where they are likely to get a slant of wind,
and the advantage of a weather tide ; and as this portion of the coast
has been surveyed, by attention to the soundings no vessel can come to
any harm.
RIVER MIKT to CHUSAW ARCHIPELAGO. North of the river Min
the ebb is generally a weather tide, unless the wind is far to the north,
and out of the river, Ting-hai and Sam-sah bays, vessels will get a
good lift ; with the flood, the indraught into the latter will be sensibly
felt as far out as Larne islet, and increases to 2 and 3 knots as the main
is closed. As a general rule, tack for the inshore tide, when the moon
is on the meridian.
Tung-ying island will be found a snug anchorage, and here the coast
12 EAST COAST OF CHINA. four. L
should be forsaken (unless in m vessel under 12 feet draught), and the
deep water to the eastward kept in. The tide will afford but little
until the vessel arrives at the Chnsan archipelago ; the flood
sea in the shallow water, while the ebb has too much
in it, unless the wind is eastward of E.X.E. ; bat Xaun-ki and
Pih-kJH*ham islands will afibrd good shelter.
On reaching the Chnsan archipelago, take the Beak Head channel
less the tide is nearly done, in which case there is Harbour Bouse and
the south side of Lnhwang island as anchorages under die lee ; and as
the first of the ebb runs to the northward through the Foto AMHM*!.^
the tide through may be saved, and anchorage gained on the Ketan
shore. From hence, if bound to Ting-hai harbour, contrive to arrive
at the west end of Tower Hill island about slack water ; otherwise in
light winds the vessel is liable to be carried on to Just-in-the- Way, and
even through the Blackwall channel.
In working through the north part of the Chnsan archipelago, as the
set of the ebb and flood trends nearly East and West, advantage can
always be taken of the tide, and vessels may count on feeling the influence
of the ebb within an hour of the moon's meridian passage. When in the
vicinity of GutdaflP island, the first of the flood takes a direction to the
southward of West, running into Hang-elm bay.
The eddy tide, generally speaking, will carry vessels clear of the large
islands ; but when they are approaching detached rocks, great attention
is required to prevent being set in amongst them.
PASSAGES m s.w. MOKSOO3. There will not be the same diffi-
culty in getting to the southward against the southerly monsoon, as there
Is in going to the northward against the other, as it is not so permanent
in it* direction, and land and sea breezes prevail ; die current will be
found running strong to the northward in the Formosa channel, but
Teasels are not liable to the same detention which they often experience
in the northerly monsoon. Care, however, must be taken not to over-
shoot the port. Fogs prevail in the early part of the season, and render
the navigation at times as harassing as it is in the North-east monsoon ;
they, however, generally lift in the vicinity of the land, and a ship's
length from where the bowsprit can hardly be seen will carry her into
-.:-...
The chief difficulty to overcome in making the passage between the
Golf of Pe-dbSli and Hong Kong during the southerly monsoon is the
strong eagerly or north-easterly current. After passing the parallel of
slue Yauag-is* klang, it will be advisable to keep near the China coast ; for
although a vessel may lie up South or S. by E. on the starboard tack, it
should be remembered that ehe is making little better than a S.E. course
. t] REMAKES O>" MAKING PASSAGES. 13
in consequence of the easterly set. A stretch to the north-westward,
though apparently a loss of ground, will ultimately prove useful.
H.M.S. Pique in making this passage in July and August, 1858, was
not favoured when close in shore by any land and sea, breezes, nor had the
least slant, but generally lost the wind. A weather tide was occasionally
felt when near the shore in the Formosa channel.
Although the constant adverse current makes this a tedious passage
against the monsoon, there is nothing to prevent a vessel of moderate
sailing qualities making the passage at this season. The Pique had
seldom more than single-reefed topsails, and the sea was generally
smooth ; she made the passage from the Gulf of Pe-ehili to Hong Kong in
31 days.
14
CHAPTER II.
APPROACHES TO CANTON RIVER, INCLUDING- HONG KONG. THE CHU
KIANG OR CANTON RIVER, AND THE SI KIANG OR WEST RIVER.
VARIATION 30' EAST IN 1861.
As vessels bound to Canton river from the southward in the South-
west monsoon endeavour to make Great Ladrone island bearing about
North and then proceed towards the river by the Great West channel ;
a description will first be given of the islands and anchorages on the
western side of this channel, from San-chau island to Cum-siug-mim
harbour, and then returning to the Ladrone islands the mariner will be
taken through the different passages to the eastward of these islands to
Hong Kong, and to the entrance of the river.*
s AN-CH ATT, which forms the western side of the entrance to the Hueng
river or Broadway, is the next large island to the north-eastward of
Tylou island, and its south-east point bears W. by N. 15 miles from
the Little Ladrone. The space between San-chau and Tylou is shoal,
with some islets and rocks adjoining the north-east end of the latter.
The depths decrease gradually off San-chau, but it is not so bold to ap-
proach as the islands to the westward, for soundings of 3 to 4 fathoms
extend a considerable distance from it ; there is a conical islet and some
rocks nearly touching its east point, with 3 fathoms close to them.
IVTONTANHA, or Wung Cum island, forming the eastern side of the
entrance to the Broadway, is a large high island to the N.E. of Sau-chau,
and close to it on the north-east side is Ko-ho island. These two island
form the south side of the Typa anchorage ; and the Great West channel
is bounded by them on the west, and by Potoe and the other islands
adjacent on the east.
HTTEXTG or BROAD-WAV RIVER, the entrance to which has sufficient
depth to admit a vessel of moderate draught a considerable way up, may
be found useful to such as intend to make a long stay near Macao, or
to those who have parted from their anchors, and draw too much water
to attempt the Typa anchorage.
* See Chart, East Coast of China, Sheet L, No. 2,212 ; scale, d = 14 inches.
OHAP. n.J HUENG OR BROADWAY RIVER. 15
The Water islands are two small islets lying close off the south end of
Moiitanha ; and N.W. f N. a mile from them lies Inside islet, having a
small inlet, called Lark bay, between it and Morgan point (608 feet above
the sea), the west extreme of Montanha. These islands are on the east
side of the Broadway entrance, and Coffin island, bearing S. W. by W. W.
distant 4 miles from the Water islands, is on the western side. At 5 miles
in u S. | E. direction from Montanha peak and 2^ miles from the Water
islands is a shoal patch of 12 feet.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, in the entrance of the
Broadway at llh. and springs rise 7^ feet. The neaps are very irregular,
there being then only one flood and one ebb, of any considerable strength,
during the 24 hours. The direction of the flood outside is governed
principally by the winds : with strong easterly winds it conies from
E.S.E. ; and when south-westerly winds prevail, from South. The ebb
runs generally to the S.W. Inside the river the tides take the direction
of the channel.
DIRECTIONS. The best time to enter the Broadway is with the first
of the flood, and if a vessel at anchor in Macao road be obliged to run for
it with a N.E. or East wind, about three-quarters ebb will be the best
time to leave the road, that she may meet the first of the flood at the
entrance, where it flows sooner than in the road. Having rounded
the east point of Ko-ho island, about 1^ miles distant in 4^ fathoms,
steer at any convenient distance round Apomi point, the high south-east
extreme of Montanha, which has 3 fathoms near it, deepening gradually
to the eastward towards Potoe island.
When abreast the point, the Water islands will be seen in one with
each other, near the western extreme of a bay with a sandy beach. As
there are not more than 2 fathoms in this bay at low tide, it should be
avoided by steering to pass about half or three-quarters of a mile to
the southward of these islands, in 2f or 3 fathoms, then haul round the
western island, preserving the same depth and distance. Do not exceed
the distance of one mile to the westward of this island, for beyond that
the water shoals fast to 2 fathoms, towards the San-chau shore. From
abreast the islands about a N.N.W. ^ W. course, giving a berth of three-
quarters of a mile to Inside islet, will lead up to abreast the west point
of Montanha, in 3 and 3^ fathoms at low water, off which a vessel may
anchor and be sheltered till the termination of the gale-
From the above point the water shoals gradually towards Ross
island on the west side the channel ; there is generally a line of
fishing stakes extending westward from the point, with passages among
them for vessels. Mong-chau, or Ballast island, bears N.N.W., distant
16 APPROACHES TO CANTON RIVER. [CHAP. n.
2^ miles, from the west point of Montanha, and between them there are
two passages leading to Macao, but both so shoal at low water as only to
afford a passage for boats.
N.W. % N. about 1 miles from the west point of Montanha, and
fronting the first of the above passages, there is a rock which shows at
low water about the size of a small boat. The channel is about a cable's
length to the westward of this rock ; for W. S. about a mile from it there
is another rock, which also shows at low water, and shoal banks bound
the channel on both sides. From the West point of Montanha to Ballast
island the water is shoal, the edge of the bank leaving only a narrow
passage on the east side the eastern rock, with 1^ fathoms in it at low
water. Pak-tang, a small island with a sharp Immmock on its north-east
end, lies on the western bank, W. ^ N. distant 3 miles from Ballast island :
the bank, composed of mud, has only 6 feet on it, and extends 1^ miles
from Pak-tang towards Ballast island, and commencing at the western
rock, trends to the N.N.W. the whole length of the channel, contracting
it to about the breadth of from half a mile to a mile, with 2f and
3 fathoms in it.
If intending to proceed farther up than the west point of Montanha,
steer N.N.W. towards the rock fronting the first passage to Macao ; the
soundings will be about 3 fathoms at low water, and the rock should be
passed within a cable's length on the west side, to avoid a shoal patch of
2 fathoms in mid-channel. When abreast the rock, steer N.N.W. -^ W. H
miles, and the vessel will then be abreast Ballast island, in 2| fathoms
water. This is a safe and convenient anchorage, about 6 miles to the
S.W. by W. of Macao, and the boats are kept in sight when passing to
or fro from that place. Fresh water may be obtained in a small bay to
the northward, under Beacon hill, which is 690 feet high, and has a
remarkable stone on its summit.
The channel for vessels, between Ballast island and the bluff point to
the northward, becomes narrow. If intending to proceed higher up
a N.N.W. ^ W. course will lead about a mile above the bluff point,
in 3 and 3 fathoms, and this point ought to be passed at about three-
quarters of a mile. If drawing more than 14 feet, wait here for the last
of the flood, to pass the Tang rocks, lying a little to the northward, and
off which there are only 3^ or 4 fathoms at high water.
From the bluff point, steer N.N.W. f W. to pass a long half mile
westward of the Tang, and when abreast them, steer about N.W. |- N.,
or directly for the entrance of the river, keeping about half a mile off
Nam-ye-kok point, which forms the east side of entrance ; it has
a pagoda on it, and is well covered with trees. Here, the depths begin
to increase, and in steering to pass not more than a quarter of a mile off
CHAP, ii.] HUENG, OR BROADWAY RIVER. 1 7
Moto fort, to avoid a rock lying in mid- channel, the soundings will be
4 and 5 fathoms. About 4 or 5 miles above this fort, the Broadway
separates into two branches : the easternmost, called Hong-shan river,
communicates with Canton, and by it the trade is mostly carried on
between this city and Macao ; and the western branch leads to the Si
kiang or West River. The wide opening eastward of Nam-ye-kok point,
called the Flats, has a boat passage through it leading to Macao.
If the wind does not admit sailing directly into the entrance of the
Broadway, there is room for short tacks between the Water islands and
the rocky islets off San-chau, taking care of the latter shore, which is
shoal. Farther in, the channel contracts a little, but the tides are of
sufficient strength to back and fill past the rocks that lie opposite the
passage to the Typa, or where the channel may seem rather narrow for
working.
The following extracts have been selected from Sir J. J. Gordon
Brcmer's dispatch, dated March 1841, to point out the track of the H.C.
steam-vessel Nemesis, when forcing a passage through the Broadway
from Macao to Whampoa :
" At 3 a.m. on the 13th the Nemesis, with the boats of the Samarang
in tow, weighed from Macao road, and proceeded over th.e flats between
Patera and Macarira islands to the Broadway river. At 8 a.m. came in
sight of Macao fort. On reaching Hok-tau point the river is divided into
two channels ; that to the right takes a sudden sharp turn and becomes
very contracted in its breadth ; Tei-yat-kok, a field batteiy recently
constructed of 14 guns, was seen strongly posted on a rising ground
on the left bank of the river (surrounded by overflowed paddy
fields), which enfiladed the whole line of the reach leading to it. On
entering the reach in which they were, they observed on the right
bank of the river a new battery, scarcely finished, with ten embrasures,
but without guns, and Hoc-kang fort close to it, well built of granite,
surrounded by a wet ditch, and mounting 14 guns and 6 gingalls.
Abreast of these (which they flanked) the river was strongly staked
across.
The Nemesis having got through the centre passage of the stakes,
which was just wide enough to admit of her passing, arrived at 4 p.m.
off the large provincial town of Heaug-shan. The dense population
thickly crowded the banks, boats, junks, housetops, the large pagoda,
and surrounding hills ; both sides of the river were packed with
trading craft of the country, the centre of the river, which is very
narrow, having merely sufficient space to allow the steamer's paddle-boxes
to pass clear of the junks moored to its banks. At 6 p.m. the steamer
passed on into a narrow shallow channel, scarcely more than the breadth
[C.] B
1 8 APPROACHES TO CANTON RTVER. [CHAT. n.
of a canal, where she anchored head and stern for the night. At day-
light on the 14th, weighed and proceeded up the river in the steamer's
draught of water, and not broader than her own length, grounding occa-
sionally on both sides ; at 7h. 50m. arrived at the large village of Hong-
hau, with a fort of the same name at the upper part, which flanked a
strong and broad line of stakes 20 feet wide, completely across the river,
filled up in the centre by large sunken junks laden with stones. After
the Nemesis had made good her passage through the stakes, which was
effected after 4 hours' incessant labour, she arrived at 4 p.m. off a military
station, where she anchored for the night.
At day-light on the 15th, the steamer continued her course upwards,
and at 7h. 30m. arrived off the large village of Zam-chau. On moving
up to Tegnell, a large town on the left bank of the river, three forts were
passed, all dismantled and abandoned, and on proceeding up to Whampoa
three more dismantled forts were observed. At 4 p.m. the Nemesis came
to in that anchorage, having in conjunction with the boats destroyed five
forts, one battery, two military stations, and nine war junks."
TYPA ANCHORAGE The eastern entrance to this anchorage is
formed between two high islands, that on the south side named Ko-ho or
Apomee, and that on the north, side named Typa or Kaikong. Ko-ho is
separated from the north-east point of Montanha by a narrow gut with
24 feet water in it, decreasing to 9 or 10 feet farther in towards the
Typa. The anchorage is between the west end of Typa island and the
east end of Macarira island, and affords secure shelter in from 3i to 4
* A
fathoms water. H.M. ships Herald and Modeste refitted here during the
operations in China in 1841.*
TIDES. In the Typa anchorage, and in Macao harbour, it is high
water, full and change, at lOh. Om. The springs rise about 7 feet ; in
the Typa they run ! and 2 knots per hour, when not influenced by the
winds. The ebb runs out of the mouth of the Typa, but it sets across
the entrance when outside the points.
DIRECTION'S. Vessels entering or leaving the Typa should endeavour
to weigh at half-flood. In entering steer for the north extreme of Ko-ho
island, and pass it pretty close, the deepest water being on this side the
entrance ; continue to steer along until the summit of Sylock island is in
line with the north extreme of Ko-ho. Keep this latter mark on, or the
north point of Sylock just in sight, bearing about E. f S., leads in the
deepest water ; and when the east end of the middle hill on Typa
island opens westward of a rocky mount forming the south-west point of
* See Plan of Macao, No. 1,290 5 scale, m = 3 inches.
CHAP. ii. J TYPA ANCHORAGE. MACAO ROAD AND HARBOUR. 19
the same island, haul gradually to the northward, and anchor near the
west point of Typa, with the south point of Sylock open of the north
extreme of Ko-ho.
Here the depth is 3^ to 4 fathoms at low tide, and vessels are sheltered
from all winds by the high lands around ; 'the deepest water is near the
west point of Typa, for the bay abreast, at the east end of Macarira,
is shoal. The watering cove is at the head of this latter bay, and from
the north point a reef of rocks projects nearly a quarter of a mile to
the eastward ; a vessel ought not to go so far northward as to approach
this reef. In the middle and eastern parts of the Typa the depths are
only 14 and 15 feet at low tide, in the fair channel leading to the anchor-
age, but no injury can be received by grounding, the bottom being re-
markably soft.
MACAO HARBOUR. Macao, a Portuguese settlement in China,
stands on a small peninsula projecting from the south-east end of the
island of Macao, on the south-west side of the entrance of Canton river.
The peninsula is nearly 2 miles long, and less than a mile wide at its
broadest part, and is connected with the island by a low, narrow, sandy
isthmus, across which extends a barrier wall to exclude foreigners from
the interior of the island. The town is built on the declivities round the
harbour, the shore beneath being embanked, so as to form a marine
parade, backed by a terrace of white houses.
The mean temperature at Macao, from observations taken for a number
of years by the late Mr. Beale, is as follows : Jan. 51 ; Feb. 51^ ;
March 651 ; April 721 ; May 751 ; June 811 ; July 86 ; Aug. 84 ;
Sept. 811 ; Oct. 73 ; Nov. 64^> ; and Dec. 57.
The harbour is formed between the peninsula and the large island of
Patera to the westward. Its entrance is narrow but the depths are 26
feet at low water close to fort San lago, which is built on the east
point ; and from thence the soundings are 21 and 20 feet along the eastern
shore to the town.
PILOTS. The river pilots are procured at Macao, and each receives
a chop from the residing mandarin, to deliver to the officer stationed at
the Boca Tigris, describing the force of the ship, and to what nation she
belongs.
MACAO ROAD is shoal, the depth being generally from 3 fathoms
at low water springs on the west side, to 41 or 5 fathoms close over to
Samcock and the other islands that bound the east side ; there is however
said to be much less water in it of late years, but as the bottom is soft
loam or loose mud there is no danger of a vessel striking on her anchors,
for they immediately bury in it.
B2
20 APPROACHES TO CANTON RIVER. [CHAP. n.
Vessels of large draught usually anchor in deep water near the
islands, with Macao bearing between W. by N. and W.N.W., distant 6 or
7 miles, which renders the communication with that place difficult and
dangerous in blowing weather. With Ko-ho point S. by W. ^ W., and
Macao W.N.W., distant 4 or 5 miles, a large vessel may anchor in 4^
fathoms at low water, and be more conveniently situated for procuring
a pilot. If drawing under 18 feet she can anchor with Macao on the same
bearing, about 1^ miles off the entrance of the Typa, into which she may
run if a gale is approaching.
Small vessels may anchor in the South-west monsoon in the entrance
of the Typa, nearest to the south point, in about 3 fathoms at low water,
and a little within Ka-o islet, on the north side of Ko-ho point. In the
North-east monsoon they can anchor close to the northern shore, abreast
a sandy beach, between the Cau-chau or Nine islands and Macao, in
3 or 3 fathoms ; here, they will generally have smooth water and an easy
communication with the shore.
DIRECTIONS. The usual route to Macao harbour is through the
Typa anchorage, there being 13 feet at low tide in the fair track
between the Typa and the harbour ; but only 12 and 11 feet in the large
space between Typa island and Macao. The channel trends in a direct
line from the Typa to the harbour, and to avoid the sunken rock, named
Pedra-mea, lying about a quarter of a mile eastward of the north-east
point of Macarira, keep the north-east point of Montanha open eastward
of Macarira ; or, in passing it keep rather more than mid-channel towards
Typa island.
From thence, steer direct for the entrance of the harbour, there being
no other danger except the Pedra Areeka rock, on the east side of
the channel, from Avhich the south point of the outermost of the two
high Ma-lo-chau islets, to the south-west of the entrance, bears W. by S.
| S., distant l miles, and the point of fort San lago N.W. N.
about half a mile. The north-east point of Montanha in line with
the east point of Macarira leads clear to the westward of the Pedra
Areeka, and a vessel will not be too near it if she does not go eastward
of a line drawn from the west point of Typa island to fort San lago
point. This point should be rounded pretty close in entering and the
eastern shore kept aboard to the anchorage abreast the town, where a
disabled ship may be hove down and repaired.
CATT-CHAU, or Nine islands, are a group of islets near the eastern
shore of Macao island, about 4 miles to the north-east of the town. They
lie close together, and the depth is 3 fathoms at about half a mile to the
eastward of the outermost islet, which bears N.E. by E. from Senhora
CHAP, ii.] CUM-SING-MUN HARBOUR. - LADRONE ISLANDS. 21
cle Penhos church at Macao ; S.W. about three-quarters of a mile from
this islet there is a rock always above water.
HARBOUR. From Macao the eastern shore of
Macao Inland trends to the N.N.E. about 1 1 miles to Bluff head, where
it turns abruptly to the westward and forms a deep bight called Cum-
sing-mun harbour. This harbour is safe for small vessels, and it would
be a desirable haven for vessels of large draught to run for from the
anchorage off Lintin, at the approach of a Typhoon, were it not for the
extensive flat outside being too shoal, the depths being only 2 to 3 fathoms
to the distance of 2 miles outside the entrance ; but they increase
quickly to 7 and 8 fathoms when within half a mile of Bluff head, which
is the proper side to steer for in coming from the eastward, and also to
keep nearest to when running into the harbour.
The entrance, which is about half a mile wide, and is formed between
the south part of Kee-ow island and Bluff head, bears W. by S. 10 miles
from Lintin peak, and is 8 miles to the northward of the Cau-chau
islands. Between the head and the small islet and sunken rocks, near the
opposite shore, the depths are irregular, from 14 to 6 fathoms ; but inside,
about half a mile West, or W. by S. from the small islet, the bottom is
soft, affording safe anchorage in 6, 5, or 4 fathoms, taking care, however,
to avoid the shoal patches shewn in the chart.*
GREAT XiABRONx:, (Man-san of the Chinese,) being the outermost
island directly fronting the entrance to Canton river, is generally used as
a landfall by vessels bound there from the southward during the South-
west monsoon ; and with the Little Ladrone adjoining to the westward,
and Potoe to the north-westward, bounds the east side of the Great
West channel, leading to the river.
This steep bold island may be easily known by its north-west part
forming a round mount or dome, (1,465 feet high,) which, being more
elevated than the other parts, can be seen, in clear weather, about 27
miles from a vessel's deck, and 40 miles from the masthead ; none of the
other islands have a similar appearance, although most of them are
high. The island is about 2 miles in diameter, with a rocky aspect close
to the sea, but it is safe to approach, the depths near it being 14
or 15 fathoms ; on the south-west part there is a small inlet, named
Pumice Stone bay, where fishing boats take shelter in the North-east
monsoon.
LITTLE Z.ADRONE, (Pockiug-han of the Chinese,) is of a convex
* See Plan of Cum-sing-mun Harbour, No. 1,253 ; scale, m = 3 inches.
22 APPROACHES TO CANTON RIVER. [CHAP. n.
sloping form, not so much elevated as the Great Ladrone and sepa-
rated from its west side by a narrow channel carrying a depth of 9 to 18
fathoms, but too confined for a vessel unless in a case of necessity.
Near the west side of the island the depth is about 10 fathoms, decreasing
gradually to 7 fathoms about half a mile to the southward of Potoe ; there
are 12 fathoms near its south point, and 14 and 15 fathoms near the south
and south-east sides of the Great Ladrone.
A small rocky islet lies close to the north-east part of the Little Ladrone,
and North nearly three-quarters of a mile from this islet there is a Black
rock covered at high tide with 10 fathoms close around : it will be
prudent therefore, in passing this locality at high water when the rock is
covered, to keep about mid-channel between the Little Ladrone and
Tong-ho island, which lies 2^ miles to the northward. This is the only
danger near the Little Ladrone, excepting a high rock close to its north-
west side, having a depth near it of 9 and 10 fathoms.
POTOE, or Pa*ssage island, bearing N.N.W. W. 5^ miles from the
south-west end of the Little Ladrone, is a flat sloping rock, visible
about 9 miles, with 5 to 6 fathoms near it all around ; but it ought
not to be approached too close in light winds, as the eddies occasioned by
the freshes out of the river may render a vessel ungovernable, and
probably drift her towards it, or Wong-mou, the adjacent island. The
channel between it and the south-east point of Montanha is about 5 miles
wide, and safe.
WONG-MOU and XiXUWGio'XB ISLANDS. Wong-mou, lying 11 miles
to the E.N.E. of Potoe, is 1 miles long, in a north and south direction
and has a peaked hill on its northern part ; at nearly half a mile from
its west side there are some rocks above water. Liuugnib, lying a mile to
the eastward of Wong-mou, has a round islet off its south end.
At about three-quarters of a mile to the N.W. from the north end of
Liungnib lie two rocks, which cover at springs, and break in blowing
weather ; therefore, in passing the north end of this island, keep at least
a mile from it.
PAK-LEAX ISLAND, called also Putoy, lies N.E. by N. nearly
1^ miles from the Great Ladrone, and on its north-east part stands a
remarkable cone hill, 855 feet high, which is visible from Macao. The
island is of irregular shape, and on the southern side the hills are much
covered by black rocks. On its eastern side and fronting Hoa-ock islet
there is a cove where fishing boats find shelter ; on its northern side
are some small bays in which fresh water may be procured ; and
near its north-east point there is a rocky islet, on which the fishermen
CHAP, ii.] POTOE ISLAND. TONG-HO ISLAND. 23
have erected a hut and a fishing stage. A rock, awash, lies close off its
south extreme.
cuo ROCK, on which H.M.S. Clio struck, 12th December 1841, lies
about 2 cables from the west side of Pak-leak, with the north-west
extreme of the island bearing N. by W. distant 4 cables' lengths.
TOKTG-HO ISLAND, bearing N. by E. l E. about 2^ miles from the
Little Ladrone, is If miles long, east and west, and of moderate and
unequal height. There is a small cove on the north-east part of this
island, into which the ship Boddam, drawing 211 f ee t water, was
taken by her pilot on the approach of a Typhoon. It appears this
vessel, after being disabled during one of these tempests by the loss
of her masts and rudder, and having fixed temporary ones, was proceeding
towards the river, when the pilot, perceiving another Typhoon coming
on, ran her into this cove, where she remained in safety during a violent
storm. ,
Boddam cove is about 2 cables wide, with 24 feet water in the entrance,
17 and 18 feet well inside, at low water springs, and the bottom all soft
mud. Here a vessel may lie at anchor, or if she has none, be run into
the mud without risk. On each side the land is steep from the water's
edge, terminating in a valley at the head of the cove, where there is a
sandy beach and plantain trees. Being the chief rendezvous of the fishing
boats in bad weather, or a place of refuge from the pirates, it is protected
by a fort on the north-west point of the entrance. The rocks along the
north-west side of the cove have 12 feet, mud, within 3 or 4 yards of
them.
Supplies. Good water may be obtained at Boddam cove, also beef, fish,
poultry, and some fruit.
DIRECTIONS. This cove will not be readily distinguished until
within about 2 miles of the north-east part of Tong-ho. In steering
for the entrance, take care to give a berth to a sunken rock, lying about
l^r cables, to the north-eastward of the fort point ; when the head of the
cove bears S.W. by W., the vessel will be to the south-east of the rock.
Having brought the cove fairly open on the above bearing, steer for
the point on the south-east side of the entrance, and pass it within the
distance of half a cable ; for the north- west point, where the fort is built,
is bordered by rocks. At about 2 or 3 cables to the south-east of the
entrance there is also a reef of rocks, which extends between 1 and 2
cables from the south-east part of the island ; these are mostly all in sight
at high water, and easily avoided by steering from the offing directly
for the south-east point of entrance. There is a sunken rock off the
24 APPROACHES TO CANTON RIVER. [CHAP. n.
north-west part of the cove, but when passing this part of the island
it will be avoided by keeping about three-quarters of a mile off shore.
The flood sets N.W. outside the entrance, and the ebb S.E. They both
run pretty strong, but there is scarcely a drain in the cove.
CHUK-WAN- isiiAXTDS. These two islands lie about E. by N. H miles
from Pak-leak, and the larger island, the eastern one, has a high rocky
islet, named Sharp island, lying off its south-east point, and a small bay
on its north side. There are 14 fathoms water between Hoa-ock and the
western island, and 11 and 12 fathoms to the northward of the group.
RAX.EIGH ROCK, on which H.M.S. Raleigh struck on the 14th April
1857, is a small pinnacle, upon which a moderate sea breaks at low
water springs, with 9 and 10 fathoms close to. Its position is lat.
22 2' N., long. 113 47' E., nearly in mid-channel between Pak-leak
island and the South White rock, distant 2^ miles from the latter.
When on the rock the gap in the centre of the South White rock is in
line with the right extreme of a small wedge-shaped island off the eastern
side of Lafsami island bearing N.E. b. N. ; the highest part of Ai-chau
island E. ^ N. ; and the peak of the great Ladrone is over the western
slope of Pak-leak S.S.W. W.
NORTH and SOUTH WHITE ROCKS are two high white rocks half
a mile apart, lying North about 3^ miles from the western or small
Chuk-wan island. From the southern rock the north-east point of the
eastern Chuk-wau bears S.S.W. W., distant 4^ miles ; the peak or
highest part of Ty-lo W. by N. ^ N., nearly 6 miles ; the north point of
Liungnib W. b. S. ^ S., 6 miles ; the southern part of eastern Chi-chau
N.E. b. E. f E., 5^- miles ; and the western Ai-chau island S.E. by E. IE.,
distant 6 miles. About a mile to the south-east of the southern rock,
there is a small black rock, visible only at low springs, having 9 fathoms
water close around. Between the two high rocks, but a little more
westerly, there is a smaller rock above water.
CAUTION. The White rocks may be seen in fine weather in time to
avoid them, and the depth is about 9 fathoms near their eastern side,
8 fathoms on the western and northern sides, and 9 fathoms in the channel,
between them and Chuk-wan ; but since the loss of the Raleigh by striking
on the Raleigh rock, it will be prudent not to use this channel until it has
been more accurately examined.
AI-CHAU ISLANDS. These two islands lie N.E. by E. l E., 4 miles
from the eastern Chuk-wan, and the eastern or larger island is sepa-
rated from the smaller one on its west side by a very narrow channel
CHAT, ii.] RALEIGH ROCK. LINGTING ISLAND. 25
with 4 and 5 fathoms in it at low water. The depth on the southern side
of these islands is 14 fathoms, on the north and east sides 12 and 13
fathoms, and on the west side 8 or 9 fathoms.
HXXiXi ISLET, lying N.E. distant 1^ miles from the northern part of
the eastern Ai-chau, has 11 and 12 fathoms water at a short distance from
the rocks around it.
SAMOUN CROUP. The Samoun or Three gates, are a group of three
small islands lying 2^ miles to the eastward of Ai-chau, and extend
about 3^ miles in a N.W. and S.E. direction, with narrow passages
between them. Near* the north-west part of the north-west island,
called Hak-chau. there are two peaked islets, and on the northern side
of the group, between the eastern and middle islands, there is another
high rocky islet, named Gauze, with a bed of rocks lying to the south-
ward of it ; the south end of the eastern island is the highest part of the
group and forms a round mount. There is a small harbour on the south-
west side of the largest ishmd, which would afford shelter to two or three
vessels against a N.E. gale. The anchorage is in 6 to 10 fathoms, muddy
bottom.
These \ islands lie to the north-west of the Taitami channel, and a
vessel may pass either to the southward of them, or between them and
Lingting in from 12 to 15 fathoms water.
LINGTING ISLAND, bearing W. f N. distant 15 miles from the
North-east head of the Lema islands, is of rugged appearance, about 1|
miles long, east and west, and rises to a peak near its centre. There are
two rocks, one awash and the other above water, lying to the eastward of
the north point of the island, and bearing N. by E. and S. by W. of each
other ; the outer one, awash, lies E.N.E. distant nearly a mile from the
north point, and the other S. by W. about half a mile from the outer one,
with depths near them of 13 fathoms, but foul ground between.
The Needle rocks, on which H.M.S. Doris struck in 1813, are two
heads lying within a few yards of each other, about 1^ cables' lengths to
the south-west of the low rocky north-west extreme of Lingting, and
are so sharp that it is difficult to keep the lead fixed on their points ; at
low springs they have about 6 feet water on them, at which time, with a
swell, they may probably show either breakers or a rippling. From the
outer rock the south-west extreme of the Lema islands is just shut in
behind the south-west point of Lingting, and the highest part of Lamma
island is a very little way over the low north-west point. A vessel Avill
avoid them when passing round the north-west end of Lingting by not
approaching it within half a mile, and by keeping the south-west extreme
of the Lema islands a little open to the south-west of Lingtiug.
26 APPROACHES TO CANTON RIVER. [CHAP. n.
The depths close to the north point of Lingting are 18 or 19 fathoms,
decreasing to 14 and 15 about a mile distant ; to the southward and west-
ward of the island, there are 10, 11, and 12 fathoms over a soft bottom.
CAUTION. When passing to the northward of Lingting in the night,
it will be prudent to keep 1 or 2 miles off, on account of the two rocks
lying off its north-east side.
TY-IO ISLAND, the southern of the range of small islands bounding
the east side of Macao road, is high near the western part, sloping a little
to the eastward. It lies N. ^ E. from the north end of Liungnib, from
which it is separated by a good channel 2| miles wide, but in using
it take care to avoid the rocks off the northern point of the latter.
Ty-lock, lying about half a mile northward of Ty-lo, is a small rocky
islet, having a large rock on its summit.
SAM-COCK ISLAND, the largest of the above range, lies l miles in
a N.N.E. direction from Ty-lock, and is of moderate height, rugged in
appearance, and in the form of a pyramid. Between this island and
Ty-lock there is a small islet, named Sy-lock, and two rocks above water;
but the channels between these are so narrow, that they should not be
attempted on account of the strong eddies, which render vessels fre-
quently unmanageable. In passing between Sam-cock and Chung-chau-.si,
the next island to the northward, keep in mid-channel or nearest to the
latter, in 6 or 7 fathoms water, as there are only 3 fathoms at a quarter
of a mile from the north point of Sam-cock, 3^ fathoms about a quarlcr
of a mile off the west point, and only 3 fathoms the same distance off its
eastern point.
water. On the northern part of Sam-cock there is a small bay or cove
for boats, and the island affords fresh water.
CHTTNG-CHATJ-SI, or West Water island, the northernmost of this
range, lies N.N.E. about l miles from Sam-cock, and there are 7 fathoms
water near it to the eastward, and 5 and 6 fathoms to the northward and
westward. The depths are 5 or 5-^ fathoms along the western side of this
range, from Ty-lo to Chung -chau-si, and 7 fathoms on the eastern side ; the
ebb stream runs strong from the northward along the western side, and
the flood in eddies from the south-eastward.
roxiK-FSET ROCK. This small dangerous needle rock, with only 4
feet on it and 10 fathoms close around, lies E.S.E. 3 miles from
Chung-chau-si, and from it the summit of Ty-lo bears S.W. by W.,
the centre of Sam-cock W. ^ S., and the small islet lying off the north-
west end of Chung-chau N.N.E. \ E. When Chuck-tu-aan island (which
bears S.E. by S. 3 miles from Chung-chau-si) and the small islet off the
CIIAIMI.] TY-LO ISLAND. CHUNG-CHAU ISLAND. 27
north-west end of Chung-chau are on the same bearing, about N.N.E. E.
and S.S.W. ^ \Y., the rock will be between the two, but nearest the former ;
therefore if a vessel has occasion to enter Macao road by this channel,
and keeps about three-quarters of a mile off Lafsami and the south side of
Chung-chau, she will pass in mid channel, and have 10 or 12 fathoms
water decreasing to 7 fathoms as she nears Chung-chau-si.
CHTTTJG-CHATT. or Water island, which with the islands to the south-
ward of it bound the south-west side of the Lantao channel, lies about
S. W. by W. 21 miles from the south-west point of Lantao, is high, and near
its north point there is a peaked hill. It is 1^ miles long, N.W. and S.E.,
and has not any hidden dangers near its northern side. The soundings
in the channel between it and the south point of Lantao will be irregular
owing to the strong eddies generally prevailing hereabout ; the depths
being 7 fathoms near the point of Lantao, 18 or 20 fathoms in mid-channel,
and 28 or 30 fathoms close over to Chung-chau. There is a cove for boats
on the north side of the island, and a short distance to the westward of
its northern point there is a round and high islet, with a large rock
on its summit ; round this islet to the northward and westward the depth
is 15 fathoms.
or Bullocks Head Gate, the next island to the
south-east, is small but high, and is separated from Chung-chau by a
narrow channel through which H.M.S. Doris ran, and found shoal water
near Chung-chau. The depths near the north side of Nau-tau-mun are
15, 16, and 17 fathoms, rather irregular ; but to the southward, in the
bay, there are only 3, 4, and 5 fathoms.
iiAFSAMX ISLAND, lying to the southward of Nau-tau-mun and
separated from it by a narrow channel, is larger than either Chung-chau
or Nau-tau-mun, and is inhabited on the south-western side, where
fresh water is to be had in a small bay. The depth on the north side of
the island in the Lantao channel is very irregular, from 1 7 to 25 fathoms
in overfalls, about a quarter of a mile off, and on the south side 10 and
1 1 fathoms. This island from some views forms a peak ; and at a short
distance to the eastward of its south point there is a rocky islet, on which
the fishermen have huts, and a winch for heaving up their nets.
CHI-CHATJ ISLANDS. Chi-chau is the largest of two islands lying
2 miles to the E.S.E. of Lafsami, and forms the south side of the east
entrance of the Lautao channel. This island is high, of round appear-
ance, inhabited on the west side, and separated by a narrow channel from
the smaller island, which is lower, and lies on its western side ; a sunken
28 APPROACHES TO CANTON RIVER. [CHAP. n.
rock lies off its north-east point, and a patch of 4 fathoms about a quarter
of a mile from its north point. There is a safe channel 1^ miles wide'
and carrying 9 and 10 fathoms, between the west point of the smaller
island and the rocky islet lying off the eastern side of Lafsami r it may
be taken by a vessel bound up the river when she enters the islands from
the south-east betwen Chuk-wan and Ai-chau.
soxo zsiiANDS. A-chau, the southern of the two Soko islands, lies
S.E. % E. distant nearly 4 miles from the south point of Lantao, and forms
the north side of the eastern entrance of the Lantao channel. The south
point of A-chau is high, and rises very steep, having 7 fathoms water
close to ; the depths between it and Chi-chau are 11 or 12 fathoms in
mid-channel, 13 fathoms nearly over to Chi-chau, deepening suddenly to
25 or 30 fathoms in a hole or swatch close to Chi-chau.
The other island lies a short distance to the northward of A-chau,
and is about a mile long, east and west, and very narrow in the middle.
A sand spit extends nearly West upwards of 1^ miles from the west side
of this island, and on the west extreme of the spit^ there are 2| fathoms
at low water, decreasing quickly to 2 and l fathoms towards the
island.
A rocky islet and two rocks above water lie between the two Soko
islands, nearest to the south-west point of the northern one ; there is
also a high rocky islet lying nearly a mile to the eastward of A-chau,
and which may be passed at half a mile to the southward in 7 fathoms
water, but the ground is foul between it and A-chau.
Water. Fresh water may be procured at a little sandy beach on the
northern side of A-chau.
ISLANDS are the southernmost group of the archipelago
fronting the entrance to Cantoh river. Pak-tsim, the largest and north-
eastern island, bearing E. by S. 16 miles from the Great Ladrone, has
near its western extreme, two high remarkable peaks, called the Asses
Ears, which make it easily known, as they rise from the same base almost
perpendicularly from the sea to the height of 980 feet and sloping suddenly
down on the north-east side, are united to a piece of moderately elevated
land, which terminates that part of the island.
Tsi-mi-wan, the next island to the south-west, is of considerable size,
and separated from the south-west point of Pak-tsim by a channel about
half a mile wide. A range of islets extends 4^ miles in a south-westerly
direction from Tsi-mi-wan ; the outermost islet (90 feet high) called Gap
rock, but Man-mi-chau by the Chinese, has a small gap in it, and is the
south-westernmost islet of this group. Between the south end of
CHAP, n.] SOKO ISLANDS. KYPONG ISLANDS. LEMA ISLANDS. 29
Tsi-mi-wan and Peaked rock (180 feet high), the easternmost islet of the
range, there is a passage l miles wide, with 18 fathoms least water in
it. A Rugged rock, 50 feet high, lies about 1^ miles N.W. ^ TV. from
the south end of Tsi-mi-wan. The passage between Nut island and the
islet nearest to it to the southward, is about half a mile wide, and carries
a depth of from 10 to 26 fathoms. There is also, between Gap rock
and the other islets to the eastward, an opening a mile wide, with from
16 to 18 fathoms water in it, and safe to pass through with a steady
wind.
Kwei-tau, or Tortoise Head, lying about three-quarters of a mile from
the east point of Pak-tsim, is a white rocky islet, having other rocks
between it and the point, neither of which ought to be approached.
Gay-une is another islet, rather more than a mile to the northward of the
north end of Pak-tsim : there is a passage between it and the latter,
which, however, ought not to be attempted unless from necessity ;
for there, is said to exist some straggling rocks on which the sea breaks
at times. The following danger requires the greatest care to avoid when
vessels are passing through the Tai-ta-mi channel between the western-
most of the Lema islands and these rocks.
CAMBRIDGE ROCK, on which a vessel of this name struck, August
30, 1820, when running through the channel between Pak-tsim and
the Lema islands, is of a spiral form with only 17 feet water on it, and
sometimes breaks. It lies N. by W. TV. 2 miles from Kwei-tau,
and N.N.E. l E. If miles from the north point of Pak-tsim ; and from
it the highest part of Chi-chau island is in line with Hill islet bearing
N.W., and the south-east side of Gay-une islet is on with the north-
west extreme of Rugged rock, S.TV. 1 W. There are 4 and 5 fathoms on
the rocks which surround the spiral rock, from thence the depths increase
to 23 fathoms in the Tai-ta-mi channel, between the rock and the Lema
islands. This channel is 2f miles wide, and safe by borrowing towards
the latter islands in passing through.
XiEAXA ISLANDS consist of three large and one small island, extend-
ing in an E.N.E. and TV. S.TV. direction 12^ miles. The easternmost and
largest island, named Tamkan, is 6 miles long and a mile broad, of
moderate height and undulating, and separated from Ye-chau, the middle
island, by the narrow Yat-moun channel.
The Yat-moun channel by Capt. 'Bate's survey of 1850, is free of
danger and carries a depth of from 12 to 19 fathoms, but by the fol-
lowing extract* from the log of the ship Cordelia, it would appear there
* Horsburgh's Directory, Vol. II., seventh edition, page 398.
30 APPROACHES TO CANTON RIVER. [CHAP. n.
is a sunken rock in mid-channel and that this passage should not be
attempted unless from necessity :
"November 14th, 1834 : the current and swell setting the Cordelia
bodily on the land, and having the Yat-moun channel open, steered for.
it, keeping near the south-west end of Tam-kan to prevent the vessel from
being carried by the current on a small rocky islet lying off the north-east
point of Ye-chau ; afterwards endeavoured to steer in mid-channel, but
the eddy current swept the vessel into the surf that rebounded from the
point of Tam-kan, when at the same time a sunken rock appeared about
mid-channel, upon which the vessel must have been lost by following the
track intended. Although blowing strong outside, the sails flapped to
the mast as we entered the channel, which ought not to be adopted unless
in a case of extreme necessity, and then the shore of Tam-kan should be
kept close aboard to avoid the rock."
Ye-chau is the middle and highest of the Lema islands, and from most
positions it appears flat on the top. Close to its north-east part lies a
small rocky islet, visible when the Yat-moun channel is open.
Poun-tin, the third or southern of the large islands, is separated from
Ye-chau by the narrow Ye-chau channel, having from 19 to 30 fathoms
water in it. This island (1,210 feet high) forms more in a peak than
either of the other two, and has a point projecting to the westward with
a hummock on it, named E-chau head. To the southward of this head
lies Tai-ta-mi, a small but high island, with a narrow channel between
it and the head. Tai-ta-mi forms the north-east boundary of the Tai-ta-mi
channel, which has Cambridge rock, Pak-tsim island, and the Kwei-tau
bounding its western side.
DIRECTIONS. The Lema islands on their southern side are all steep
and rocky, not affording even a single bay for a boat to shelter in, and
the soundings are 22 or 23 fathoms about 1^ miles from their coast ; on
their northern sides the depth is generally 15 or 16 fathoms close to the
shore. Vessels in the North-east monsoon should endeavour to pass be-
tween the north end of Tam-kan and Putoy, which lies 6 miles to the
northward, and its north end when viewed from the E.N.E. forms a small
peaked hummock.
Notwithstanding the Lema islands appear barren, there are a few men
residing on them, preparing charcoal from small quantities of brush-
wood found between the rocks, which they send to Macao for sale.
Fresh water may be obtained along the north side of Tam-kan at several
places and close to the westward of its north-east point, in a little cove, called
Joss House bay, there is a Chinese place of worship, and about this part
the Compradore's boats await vessels after the end of August, when the
easterly winds set in. The Yat-moun and Ye-chau channels should not
CHAP, ii.] LEMA ISLANDS. LAMMA CHANNELS. 31
be used unless in a case of emergency, or when the wind blows directly
through, as they are narrow, with deep water, and have generally a strong
current sweeping through them. Yat-moun is the widest, and of moderate
depth, but if the Cordelia rock is in existence, it is very dangerous.
lies off the south-west side of Hong Kong, and its
south-west point bears N.W. by W. ^ W. 13 miles from the north-cast
extreme of the Lema islands, and N.E. 5^ miles from the north point of
Lingting. The island is of rocky appearance, about 4 miles long, north
and south, and 2 miles wide, but is narrowed near the middle by a deep
cove on its east side, and a long bay on its west side, so that between
them the island is not more than a quarter of a mile across. The north
end of the island is about a mile distant from the south-west part of
Hong Kong.*
From the north point of the long bay, on the west side of the island,
the shore trends N. ^ E. a mile to another point, off which are some
sunken rocksf lying half a mile from the shore. The south-east point
of the island is remarkable from its being a small round hummock, of
bright green appearance on the top, and rocky near the water's edge ;
this part of the island, as far as the eastern point, is rocky close to the
shore, with 13 or 14 fathoms water half a mile off.
The cove on the east side of the island is to the northward of its eastern
point, and is about 1 miles deep and two-thirds of a mile wide. It carries
a depth of 8 to 3^ fathoms, and a vessel may anchor in 6 or 7 fathoms
water, over rocky bottom, about half a mile in from the entrance, and
ride in security, being land-locked. A small islet, named George island,
234 feet high, lies close to the northward of the north point of the cove.
CHANNELS. The East Lamma channel, between Lamma
island and Hong Kong, is about a mile wide, and carries a general depth
of from 17 to 23 fathoms ; but a vessel will find a good and sheltered
anchorage between George island and the north point of Lamma in 7 or 8
fathoms. There appear to be no dangers in this channel, but a rock|
is said to lie off the south-east point of Mas-kong or Eound island, which
is on the Hong Kong shore, fronting Deep water or Heong-kong bay.
About a mile to the north-east of the north point of Lamma island, and
near the western point of a deep cove, named Aberdeen or Shekpywan
harbour, on the Hong Kong shore, there is a cascade of good water con-
veniently obtained.
* See Chart of Hong Kong, No. 1,466 ; scale, m = 2-4 inches.
f Horsburgh's Directory, Vol. II., seventh edition, page 394.
"t This rock is doubtful ; it is not shown in Capt Belcher's survey of 1841.
32 APPROACHES TO CANTON RIVER. [CHAP. n.
On the western side of Lamma, between it and the islands lying off the
east side of Lantao, the depth is generally 5 fathoms on a mud bottom ;
when bound through the East Lamma channel from the southward, the
soundings will decrease rapidly to 7 and 6 fathoms after rounding the
north point of Lamma. About a third of a mile N.N.E. from the north
point, is a rocky patch of 8 fathoms, surrounded by depths of 14 to 21
fathoms.
CHUNG ISLAND lies near the south-east side of Lautao, and N. W.
5 miles from Lingting. Its north and south parts are high, but it is
narrowed near the middle, which is low, by two bays, one on the east, the
other on the west side of the island. A vessel of moderate draught will
find good shelter, during an easterly gale, in the western bay in 3
fathoms. There is no danger in passing the south end of the island, there
being 7 and 8 fathoms close to, and 5 and 6 fathoms near the western
part ; but East, about 3 cables from the eastern part of the island, there
is a small rock, which dries at low water, and has 6 and 7 fathoms
close around it.
To the northward of Chung, and at a short distance from Lantao,
there are several small islands and rocks above water ; but the channels
between them and the Lantao shore are narrow, shoal, and unfit for large
vessels.
water. Fresh water can be procured at the bay on the western side
of Chung.
PTJ-TOY, lying off the south end of Hong Kong and N.N.W. ^ W.
6 miles from the North-east head of the Lema islands, is the southern
island of a group which bounds the northern side of the Lema channel.
The island is of moderate height, the appearance in general barren, there
being only a small quantity of brushwood in the valleys. On its Avestern
side there is a cove for boats, with a small rocky islet. The depth of
water between Pu-toy and the north-east end of the Lema islands is 18
and 19 fathoms.
LO-CHAU, or Beaufort island, lying to the northward of Pu-toy, and
separated from it by a narrow channel, is high, flattened at the top,
and very steep all around ; about its north-western brow there is a small
peak, with a few large and remarkable rocks on it. Off its south-west
side, at the distance of half a mile, are some* large rocks above water,
having no hidden dangers near them.
SUN KONG, bearing East about 1 miles from Lo-chau, is a small but
high island, rising in a peak, 466 feet high, towards the centre ; near the
CHAP, n.] CHUNG ISLAND. HONG KONG ISLAND. 33
north-western part of the island there are some rocks considerably above
water.
WAG-LAN, bearing N. -| W. 7 miles from the North-east head of the
Lema islands, and East about three-quarters of a mile from Sun-kong,
is a small barren rocky islet, the easternmost of this group, having 16
and 17 fathoms water at a small distance round it to the eastward.
HONG KONG ISLAND, about 9 miles long, N.W. by W. and S.E. by E.,
2 to 5-| miles broad, and with an area of about 29 square miles, lies
between Lamma island and the main, from which it is separated by a
narrow channel a quarter of a mile wide, named Lyemun pass. The
appearance of the island is somewhat picturesque, but on the whole it is
generally barren and unprepossessing. It consists for the most part of
rocky ranges, the highest summit of which, named Victoria peak, is at
the north-west part of the island, and rises to the height of 1,825 feet
above the sea level. It was first ceded to Great Britain by the treaty of
Canton in January 1841, and again by the treaty of Nanking in August
1842. The British settlement of Victoria is on its north side, nearly
abreast the peninsula of the mainland which forms the west side of Kaulun
bay. Water abounds everywhere, and each valley of the least pretension
sends its stream to the cultivated grounds near the shore, where a portion
is retained for irrigation, and the remainder is permitted to find its way to
the sea.
The population of Hong Kong in 1841 was only 5,000 ; but in 1858 it
amounted to 75,503, of whom only 1,462 were white, and the remainder
coloured. In 1858 the total number of vessels entered in ballast and with
cargoes was 1,007, amounting to 716,476 tons. The native boats fre-
quenting the island import sugar, alum, sulphur, rice, nut-oil, dye-barks,
provisions, &c. ; taking in exchange opium, manufactured goods, saltpetre,
and stones quai'ried in the island.
HONG KONG ROAD. The shores of Hong Kong are indented by
numerous bays, of which the most considerable are on the south-east side
of the island. There is good anchorage throughout the entire channel
between the island and the main, except in the Lyemun Pass, where the
water is deep ; but the best anchorage is in Hong Kong road, in front of
the settlement, where the depth is from 5 to 9 fathoms over good holding
ground. During the Typhoon months the anchorage in the northern part
of the road is considered preferable, in consequence of the shelter afforded
by Kaulun or Kowloon peninsula to the north-east, the point from which
the wind blows hardest. The inner anchorage in Victoria bay is in 6 and
7 fathoms water, about half a mile off shore, abreast the Ordnance jetty,
[c.] c
34 APPROACHES TO CANTON RIVER. [CHAP. n.
where a vessel will be sheltered from the eastward by Kellett island
and the rocks off Matheson point, and be out of the strength of the tide.
There is a patent slip at this latter point.
The directions for approaching Hong Kong road from the westward are
given in page 41.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, in Hong Kong road at
lOh. 15m., and the springs rise about 4| feet. The tides around the
island are irregular, flowing and ebbing without any apparent change
of direction at the surface, and sometimes there appears to be only one
tide in 24 hours.
TYTAIVT BAY and HARBOUR. There are several small bays on the
southern shore of Hong Kong, all of which are safe for small vessels ; but
at the south-east part of the island is a deep inlet, named Tytam bay,
which is 2^ miles deep, l miles wide at entrance, free from danger, and
carries a depth of 10 to 6 fathoms. Tytam head, the western point of
entrance, is a high bluff, with 13 and 14 fathoms water near it ; from
thence the western shore of the bay trends about N. by E. three-quarters
of a mile to a small sandy bay, with a rocky islet fronting the beach.
About half a mile to the northward of the islet the land forms a round
projecting point, to the northward of which is a large bay, with a sandy
beach, in which is Tytam village.
Tylong head, or Cape D'Aguilar, off which are two green islets, forms
the eastern point of entrance to Tytam bay, and from thence the
eastern shore of the bay bends round to the northward for 2 miles, and
terminates in a small inlet, called Tytam harbour, carrying 4 to 6 fathoms,
but its head, to the north-west, is shoal and rocky. This bay would be
useful to a vessel, in the event of her being near Wag -Ian at the close, of
the day, with the probability of a dark and tempestuous night, for by
running in she will at any rate be snug, even if a Typhoon should happen
during the night.
Water. At the head of Tytam harbour there is a rivulet of fresh
water, which, however, cannot be procured without inconvenience when
the tide is low. Water may be obtained at Tytam village on the western
shore of the bay.
TIDES. There is very little tide in Tytam bay, and, like all the places
hereabouts, it is difficult to fix the time of high water, owing to the
variety of channels, and the wind greatly influencing the tidal streams ; but
the rise and fall is about 7 or 8 feet at springs, and about 3 or 4 feet at
neaps. The ebb sets through between Lo-chau and Hong Kong to the
eastward.
DIRECTIONS. If bound to Tytam bay from the eastward the route
may either be taken to the northward of Wag- Ian, Sun-kong, and Lo-
CHAP, ii.] HONG KONG ISLAND. LANTAO ISLAND. 35
chau islands through the Shingshimun Pass, or to the southward of these
islands through the Lema channel ; then round the Castle rock to the A\.
ward of Lo-chau. But the passage to the northward is preferable, for after
opening the bay a vessel may haul to the northward into any convenient
berth ; whereas, by taking the southern route, if the wind be northerly,
she will have to turn in.
If Shingshimun Pass be taken, give Wag-Ian and Sun-kong a berth
of about half or three-quarters of a mile, and steer for the Pass, which
is formed by the high island of Lo-chau to the southward, and by
the two green islets off Tylong head to the northward : in this track a
vessel will carry 17 and 16 fathoms water from Wag-Ian, and, by keeping
in mid-channel, will have 27 and 30 fathoms deepening as Lo-chau is
neared, and shoaling to 14 or 16 fathoms near the islets. The depths
will shoal fast to 10 or 11 fathoms when about 1 or l- miles to the west-
ward of the two islets. From thence steer for the anchorage off Tytarn
village, on the western shore, in 6^ fathoms. In this position a vessel
will be well sheltered from all winds, except those from South, which
cannot affect her much, as the islands and rocks contiguous to the entrance
prevent much swell from rolling in.
LANTAO. or Ty-ho, the large high island lying to the westward of
Hong Kong, is 14 miles long, N.E. by E. and S.W. by W., and its
greatest breadth is 5^ miles. About the centre of the island the land is
very high, making in peaks, the highest and westernmost of which rises
3,050 feet above the sea level.
West Coast. Close to the western shore of Lantao, at 1^ miles from
the south point, there is a peaked hill, which at high water is insulated.
From this hill to the point a mud flat extends about a third of a mile off
shore, with only 2 fathoms water on it ; therefore, in passing this part of
the island do not decrease the depth under 7 fathoms, as the soundings
will shoal fast from 17 to 7 fathoms near the edge of the flat.
About a mile to the N.N. W. of the peaked hill, and three-quarters of a
mile from the nearest shore, there is a rock above water, having near it a
depth of 15 fathoms, and between it and the shore 7 fathoms, decreasing
quickly towards the latter. N.E. by N. 1| miles from this rock is a bluff
point, and to the eastward of the latter a bay, in which is the village of
Ty-ho, where there is a creek or rivulet into which a boat may go at high
tide. To the southward of the village are two bays, both of which arc
shoal, but fresh water may be procured in them.*
* See Plan of Tong-ku or Urmston Bay, with north-west side of Lantao Island,
No. 1,222 ; scale, m -= 1 inch.
C 2
36 APPROACHES TO CANTON RIVER. [CHAP. n.
North Coast. On the northern side of Lantao there are two projecting
points, three-quarters of a mile apart, between which is the bay and
village Sah-lo-wung ; and directly fronting the eastern point of the bay
and about a quarter of a mile distant, is a small islet, having a rock awash
a short distance to the northward of it. Between this islet and Saw-chau,
the depth is too small for a vessel of large draught at low water ; towards
Saw-chau is the deepest water, 3| and 4% fathoms, shoaling near the
Lantao shore to 3 and 2f fathoms, on a soft mud bottom.
Immediately eastward of the small islet off Sah-lo-wung is another bay
formed by Chu-lu-cock island extending north and south ] | miles ; in this
bay is Tung-chung village. Eed point, the north-east extreme of
Chu-lu-cock, has a remarkable rocky appearance, and is frequented by
a company of stone-cutters, who cut the granite rocks into slabs for
building. The south point of this island is so near the Lantao shore, that
in passing it is difficult to distinguish it to be an island. In Tung-chung
bay the water is shoal, being only 2 and 2^ fathoms ; and there is but little
water on the eastern side of Chu-lu-cock ; from thence the northern shore
of Lantao is not inhabited.
About 1^ miles E.N.E. of Red point lies a small green island, and
three-quarters of a mile farther in the same direction another small
island, which are the Brothers of Dalrymple, or Motoe of the Chinese. A
rock above water, lies about half a mile to the southward of the East
Brother, and about a mile off the Lantao shore.
The depths near the Brothers are 7 and 8 fathoms, shoaling from the
eastern islet towards the northern shore into 4 or 5 fathoms, and making
the channel narrow ; a small reef borders the western side of the West
Brother. According to Captain H. Smith, of H.M.S. Druid, there is a
good channel with 8 or 10 fathoms water between the East Brother and
the large rock to the southward of it ; the rock is high above water, and
bold on all sides. From the East Brother the north-east point of Lantao
bears E. by N. 4 miles.
South coast. The southern coast of Lantao forms two large bays with
shoal water in them. The larger and eastern bay, to the north-eastward
of the Soko islands, has in it a small islet and some rocks above water,
and a populous village at its head. The depth is 2 fathoms within the
rocks, and 4 and 5 fathoms in the entrance of the bay, where there
appears to be good anchorage. The western bay is less capacious than
the other, and carries a depth of 2 to 5 fathoms.
Off the east entrance point of the eastern of the above bays, and sepa-
rated from it by a narrow channel, is a high green island named Patung,
and close to its west side are some rocks above water. A small vessel will
CHAP, ii.] CAP-SING-MUN PASSAGE. - URMSTON BAY. 37
find good anchorage to the westward of these rocks, anchoring with them
bearing about S. by E., three-quarters of a mile distant, in 5 fathoms
water. Fresh water may be procured at the sandy beaches on the south
shore of Lantao. In the channel formed between Lantao and Patung
there are 7 fathoms water ; the ebb tide here runs to the eastward.
PASSAGE, or Throat Gates, formed between the
north point of Lantao and the main, is separated into two channels by
Mali-wan island. The channel on the west side of Mah-wan, being
extremely narrow with dangerous eddies, ought never to be used by any
vessel, especially as the channel to the northward of that island, is wider,
with good anchorage, a regular tide, and the advantage in the North-east
monsoon of being to windward.
DIRECTIONS. In proceeding through the Cap-sing-mun passage
from the westward, keep close over to the mainland to avoid a reef,
extending a third of a mile from the north-east point of Mah-wan ; then
keep in mid-channel between that island and Chung-hue island, which
lies a mile to the eastward, and after rounding the south end of the
latter, if bound for Hong Kong road, steer for the west end of Won-chu-
chau or Stoue-cutters island.
SAW-CHATT, lying 3 miles to the northward of Lantao, and S.E.
4i- miles from Lintin, is a small narrow island nearly a mile long, with
a sharp hummock on its north end. To the northward of Saw-chau
about one mile distant, there is another island, higher and more rocky in
its appearance, named Tong-ku ; and S.W. by S. from the south point
of Tong-ku, and W. by N. from the north point of Saw-chau there are
two rocks above water, about a mile distant from each island : the
western rock is named White rock from its white appearance. The
depths near the eastern sides of Saw-chau and Tong-ku are 5 to 9
fathoms ; to the westward of Tong-ku, 4^ fathoms ; and near the rocks
5 fathoms, at low water.*
URMSTOIU BAT or Tong-ku harbour, bounded by the islands
Tong-ku and Saw-chau to the west, and Castle Peak land to the east,
is a safe anchorage, and tolerably sheltered from all winds. The best
berth is in about 8 or 9 fathoms, with the peak of Tong-ku just open
of the south end of Lintin, and nearer to the main land than to Tong-ku.
This safe bay or harbour was named Urmston by the captains of the
fleet who anchored there in August and September, 1823, at the
recommendation of Sir James Brabazon Urmston, President of the Com-
pany's factory at Canton during the discussion with the Chinese, relative
* See Chart of Canton River, Sheet 1, No. 1,782 ; scale, m = l inches.
38 APPROACHES TO CANTON RIVER. [CHAP. n.
to the affair of the Topaze frigate in 1821-2, at Lintin ; the anchorage
was found secure, with smooth water when it blew a gale from eastward.
Fresh water was procured in abundance.
DIRECTIONS. The proper channel into Urmston bay for vessels of
large draught is to the northward of Tong-ku, and has a depth of 7 and 8
fathoms ; and the approach to it from southward, is between the east
side of Lintin South sand and the islands of Saw-chau and Tong-ku. The
passage to the southward of Saw-chau has only 3 fathoms in it, and
between Saw-chau and Tong-ku, the depth is only 2^ fathoms.
The channel between White rock and the east side of Lintin spit is
about 2 miles wide, with. 7 and 8 fathoms, decreasing towards the spit
to 5 fathoms. If working to the northward, do not stand so far west as to
shoal to 5 fathoms, or to bring the east side of Lintin to the northward of
N. by W. With the south end of Saw-chau bearing E.N.E. and Lintin
peak North, a vessel will be on the southern edge of the spit in 4f or 5
fathoms, sand and mud.
ISLAND, lying to the W.N.W. of Urmston bay, is about
7 miles in circumference, and its summit terminates in a high conical
peak, which bears N.E. 14 miles from the outermost of the Cau-chau or
Nine islands. A narrow spit of sand extends about 4^ miles to the
southward from the south end of the island, having 3^- fathoms water on
its outer part, but only 9 feet within 2| miles 'of the island, and rather
less in some places. The spit is steep-to on the west side, with 10 fathoms
near it, 7 fathoms touching its verge, then 3 fathoms ; and the water sud-
denly deepens from 3 fathoms on the east side to 7 or 8 fathoms. When
the island is approached within o miles, a vessel of large draught
should not when standing eastward towards this spit bring the west end
of the island to the westward of N. | W. or should tack immediately after
deepening to 9 or 10 fathoms ; but in the night she ought not to deepen
to above 7 or at most 8 fathoms.
A narrow sandbank also extends 13^ miles in a N.N.W. direction
from the north side of Lintin, and on its northern part is a narrow ridge
called Lintin bar, the southern end of which, in 2^ fathoms, bears
W. by N. | N. from Fan-si-ak islet, and N.N.W. W. about 6| miles
from Lintin peak ; the least water on the bar is 12 feet, and its northern
end in 2| fathoms lies N.W. by N. 10^ miles from Fan-si-ak, with
Sam-pan-chau just open westward of the west extreme of Anung-hoy
island.
The anchorage off Lintin is in 10 or 12 fathoms, about 1^ miles
from the sandy beach on its south-west side ; under 10 fathoms the water
shoals quickly to the shore.
CHAP, n.] LINTIN ISLAND LANKEET ISLAND. 39
water. Fresh water may be obtained at the eastern extremity of
the beach on the south side of Lintin, and at times a few bullocks and
vegetables may be procured from the inhabitants of the village.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, at the anchorage off Lintin
island at noon, and the rise at springs is 7 or 8 feet. The streams run
nearly North and South, and the ebb in the freshes sometimes sets at the
rate of 5^ or 6 miles per hour. In the North-east monsoon the neaps are
very irregular, sometimes only one flood perceptible during 24 hours
with a small rise when the other flood should prevail.
FAN-SI-AK ISLET. Two rocky islets, the easternmost of which is
the largest and called Fan-si-ak, and the other White rock, lie nearly
North 4| miles from the peak of Lintin. When these islets are in one
bearing E. by S. f S., the southern extremity of Lintiu bar is on the
same bearing. The east side of the channel between the south extremity
of the bar and Lintiu is bounded by mud-banks, with irregular sound-
ings on them of 2^ and 3^ fathoms at low water.
iiATfitEET riiAT, or bar, extending from the north end of Liutin
bar, across the channel to the shoal mud-bank on the west side, and
N. W. towards Lankeet island, consists of sand and mud, with hard bottom
in some places. The depths on it are 3 and 3^ fathoms at low tide, and
4^ to 4| fathoms at high water springs ; a vessel drawing more than
20 feet ought not to pass over it until about half flood. Close to the
northward of this flat there are generally some fishing stakes, and boats
fastened to them, and others between Lintin and Lankeet ; care should be
taken not to run over the boats, which generally show lights in the
night.
LANKEET ISLAND, bearing N.N. W. l W. 19 miles from Lintin peak
is formed of two hills, sloping into a low point at the west end, where
there is a well of fresh water by a small temple close to some trees ;
but the island is not inhabited. A spit extends S.S.E. f E. 2^ miles
from its south-west point, with only 2 and 2^ fathoms over it at low
water. Between this spit or flat and a long narrow sand to the westward
there is a channel leading close past the west point of Lankeet, to the
western part of Ty-cock-tau island.
To proceed up this channel, keep a large white patch on Ty-cock-tau
in line witli the outermost of the rocks projecting off the west end of
Lankeet ; with this mark on, a vessel will have 4^ or 5 fathoms at
high water, about 4 miles from Lankeet ; and will carry the same depth
till nearly abreast the west end of the island, where she will have about
6 fathoms in Lankeet road. This is a convenient place for a vessel to
40 APPROACHES TO CANTON RIVER. [CHAP. n.
moor when circumstances require her stores or sick to be landed. All
the space between Lankeet and Ty-cock-tau is shoal, having in many
places only one fathom at low water.
SAIVI-FAN-CHATT, or Boat islet, bearing N. by E. ^ E. about 1^ miles
from the east end of Lankeet, is small, of middling height, resembling a
boat turned bottom upwards. An extensive rocky bank, partly above
water, projects N.W. from it, and joins the shoal bank extending from
Lankeet to Ty-cock-tau. There are regular depths of 7, 8, and 9 fathoms
to the eastward of Sam-pan-chau. This islet is the best guide for crossing
over Lankeet flat, between the northern part of Lintin bar and Lankeet.
DIRECTIONS from SINGAPORE to HONG KONG and CANTON
RIVER. When June approaches, and the South-west monsoon is set
regularly in, the track from Singapore to China by the Outer passage to
the eastward of Pulo Sapata and over the Macclesfield bank is preferable,
the winds being more steady in the open sea than near the coast. About
full and change of the moon and as early as April, a westerly breeze will
sometimes be found blowing out of the Gulf of Siam to carry a vessel
to the Macclesfield bank, and afterwards easterly winds to run her to
Hong Hong.*
This passage becomes precarious if a sailing vessel is not up with Pulo
Sapata early in October ;f for near this island, about the middle of that
month, strong southerly currents begin to prevail with light northerly
winds, variable airs, and calms, by which many vessels have been delayed
for several days, and have made no progress to the northward. Fresh
southerly winds have been met with, even so late as 1st of November,
but these instances are rare.
Sailing vessels leaving Singapore for China in February, March, and
part of April, may expect a tedious beating passage. In March, April,
or May, they can proceed by the Inner passage along the coast of Cochin
China, which is generally the most expeditious route in these months.
Some vessels proceeding by the Outer passage have carried strong S.W.
and southerly winds, when others inside the shoals have at the same time
experienced N.W. and westerly gales blowing out of the Gulf of Tong
King, with dark weather and rain, and have been in danger of being
driven among the shoals ; the Inner passage ought, however, to be chosen
in the strength of the South-west monsoon if the vessel is a dull sailer,
for the sea will be smooth, and being near the land she may reach an
* See Charts : China Sea, Sheets 1 & 3, Nos. 2,658, 2,660 ; scales, m = 0-05 of an
inch.
t Directions from Singapore to Hong Kong in N.E. monsoon, will be found in page 83
of China Pilot, Appendix No. 2.
CHAP. II.] DIRECTIONS FROM SINGAPORE TO HONG KONG. 41
anchorage if required. The gales out of the gulf are not frequent, and
the land may be kept in sight nearly all the time.
In taking the Inner passage, steer from Pulo Aor along the coast to
the Redang islands, thence across the Gulf of Siam, and along the coasts
of Cambodia and Cochin China, keeping the latter aboard to Cape Touron.
From thence steer for the south-west part of Hainan, coasting along this
island and passing between it and the Taya islands ; then cross over to
make the coast of China about Tieu-pak, or Hailing island. The islands
from thence to Hong Korig may be coasted along at discretion, or shelter
may be found amongst them on emergency. If the vessel takes this route
before the middle of March or the 1st of April, the passage will be tedious
unless she is a good sailer.
TO HONG KONG. If bound to Hong Kong in the strength of the
South-west monsoon, with the wind steady between S.E. and S.W.,
endeavour to make the Great Ladrone island bearing about North, then
steer between it and the Kypong islands, and between Lingting and
the Lema islands, for the west Lamma channel. After the middle of
August, when easterly winds are likely to prevail several days together,
as they are more or less at all seasons, it will be necessary to make the
North-east head of the Lema islands, and proceed in by the Lema channel,
towards the west Lamma channel. The east Lamma channel is also safe
in both monsoons, for although the water is deep, if the wind falls light
it is safe to anchor in, and there is little or no tide.*
Hong Kong road is generally approached by sailing vessels from the
westward, on which side it is protected by Green island and Kellett bank,
which extends nearly 1^ miles northward from the latter island, and
carries a depth of 3^ fathoms. The road is sometimes approached from
the eastward through the Lyemun Pass during the North-east monsoon,
but the winds are generally baffling under the high land.
When abreast of Green island, if the vessel be of heavy draught, keep
the peak of Lamma island (Mount Senhouse, 1,140 feet high) open west-
ward of Green island S. | E. until the Devil's peak (on the mainland near
Lyemun Pass) is in line with the White rock on the south point of
Won-chu-chau or Stone-cutters island, when a S.E. by E. course will
lead northward of Kellett bank, and direct for the anchorage.
Vessels of proper draught can proceed over Kellett bank, or through
the 4 fathoms channel between Green island and the south part of the
bank, by passing about 1^ cables to the northward of the island, and
then steering for the road.
* See Chart of Hong Kong, No. 1,466 ; scale, m 2 inches.
42 APPROACHES TO CANTON RIVER. [CHAP. n.
The narrow channel may be taken between Green island and Hong
Kong, if the wind is fair, and blows right through. Many sailing vessels
have run through this channel, amongst which were H.M. ships Modeste,
Wellesley, Cornwallis, and Vernon. It has depths of 10 to 12 fathoms
in the middle, shoaling to 8, 6, and 4^ fathoms after passing the small
islet eastward of Green island.
To CANTON RIVER through IiEMA, XiANTAO, and TAX-TA-MI
CHANNELS. The Lema channel, formed by the Lema islands on
the south, and by the Pu-toy group on the north, is about 6 miles wide,
and safe to navigate, with regular depths of 17 to 19 fathoms, and soft
bottom. This channel should, if possible, be always adopted by sailing
vessels bound to Hong Kong or Canton river in the North-east monsoon,
to effect which they ought to make the North-east head of the Lema
islands, bearing to the westward. If the weather be thick, and the
wind blows strong at East or S.E., it may be prudent to heave to, when
land cannot be discerned above 3 or 4 miles.* The depths are 19 to 21
fathoms, close to the head, and about 18 fathoms at the entrance of the
channel. If the weather will not permit a vessel to enter the channel,
she should not shoal under 25 or 26 fathoms : in these depths she will
drift clear outside all the islands.
If, however, a vessel should happen to be near the entrance of the Lema
channel in the evening, and from the falling of the mercury in the
barometer, or by the appearance of the weather, a Typhoon is expected,
she should run immediately for Tytam bay, or for Tathong channel, or
the east Lamma channel, as may be most convenient ; in either of which
she will be secured from the tempest, if an anchorage is gained before
night.
During S. W. or westerly winds, it will sometimes be found difficult to
enter the Lema channel from the eastward, by turning through, as there is
generally a set from West to East, occasioned by the ebb coming from the
westward out of the numerous channels, and the flood coming from the
S.W. ; with a strong S.W. wind the velocity of the stream is about 1^
knots per hour to the eastward, only slacking a little when it ought to
change its direction. Pu-toy island may be approached with safety to a
quarter of a mile, and the whole north side of the Lema islands to half a
mile.
* The Nautilus of Calcutta, September, 1802, made Pedro Blanco, and after running
to the westward, hove to for the night, keeping in from 18 to 14 fathoms. A strong
easterly gale had prevailed in the night, which increased, with thick weather, at day-
light, when they found themselves close to the east side of one of the rocky islands
northward of the Lema channel, on which the vessel struck, and soon went to pieces.
CHAP, ii.] THROUGH LEMA AND LANTAO CHANNELS. 43
i. From about a mile to the south-
ward of Pu-toy, a West course for 19 miles will lead to the entrance of
the Lantao channel, passing northward of Lingting and southward of
Lamma, the depth decreasing from 17 fathoms off Pu-toy, to 12 and 13
fathoms after passing Lingting, and to 7 and 8 fathoms as the channel is
approached ; there are 12 fathoms in mid-channel in the entrance, de-
creasing to 7 or 8 fathoms towards A-chau. Lingting, which is of con-
siderable height, and terminates at the summit in a conical peak, may
be passed on either side as the wind requires. If passing to the south-
ward give a wide berth to the sunken rocks off its north-west point ;
and to those off the north-east point if passing to the northward ; but
the channel to the northward of this island is preferable, for in daylight
it has no hidden danger, and a vessel may work from side to side. In the
night it will be prudent not to come nearer the north side than 1^ miles
to avoid the two small rocks (page 26), off its north-east point.
Chi-chau, when seen from the eastward, has a remarkable appearance,
and is a good guide ; it makes like a high, round, detached island, with dis-
tant rugged land to the westward of it, which is Lafsami and Chung-chau.
Having entered the Lantao channel, the course through is N.W. by W.,
and the depth will be variable, not under 8 or 9 fathoms, or above 25
fathoms ; this inequality may be owing to the ebb tide running in strong
eddies, particularly in July or August, when its velocity is sometimes 4^
knots per hour on the springs. With a light wind, at times, it is very
difficult to manage a vessel hereabout ; on some occasions two or three
boats, assisted by the sails, have been baffled in their attempts to tow the
vessel's head round. After passing between Chi-chau and A-chau,
the water will deepen from 10 to 17 fathoms in mid-channel near
the islands which front the south-west point of Lantao, and there are
7 fathoms close to the point. Having rounded the point at a moderate
distance, steer to the northward for Lintin, or to the westward for Macao
road, as circumstances require ; in the latter case the depth will gradually
decrease to o^ or 5 fathoms.
In turning through the Lantao channel, when standing northward do
not decrease the depth under 7 fathoms, in a vessel of large draught,
nor pass the line of bearing between the south points of Lantao and
A-chau. There is a good channel, one mile wide, between the northern
Soko island and the Lantao shore, which may be taken by a vessel when
blowing fresh from the northward. In this case, after passing the south
point of Patung, a small rocky islet will be seen in the bay on the southern
shore of Lantao ; steer West through this channel, until this islet is shut
in behind the western point of the bay, when keep towards the south
44 APPROACHES TO CANTON RIVER. [CHAP. n.
point of Lantao, and the depth will be 4^ fathoms, muddy bottom, between
the point of the sandy spit and the Lantao shore.
From the small islet off the north side of Chung-chau, Lintin bears
N. ^ E. 13 miles ; the sand spit extending off the south side of Lintiu
is on the latter bearing, therefore a vessel will clear it if this islet is kept
S. by E. until Lintin peak bears N. by E., then steer for the west point of
Lintin. In a dark night, a N.N.W. or N.W. by N. course should be
steered from the middle of the Lantao channel until the depths shoal to
6 fathoms, then steer North, keeping a good look out for the fishing
stakes ; on this latter course, if the soundings deepen above 7 fathoms,
keep a little westerly until the vessel is near or above Lintin, where she
can anchor. By not deepening above 7 fathoms, she will not be too near
Lintin sand spit, there being 9 and 10 fathoms close to it. The ebb
tide, from the west end of Lintin to the eastward, sets South ; but over
on the western shore its direction is S.E.
Through TAi-TA-Mi CKATTWEi,. If proceeding towards Canton
river through the Tai-ta-mi channel, between the Lema and Kypong
islands, after clearing the Cambridge rock (page 29), steer to the north-
ward for Lingting, pass between it and the Samoun group, and then
proceed through the Lantao channel ; or pass between the Samouu group
and Ai-chau, and then steer for the Lantao channel or to the N.W. direct
for Lafsami. Having approached Lafsami keep within a mile of its western
side, and of the south part of Chung-chau, to avoid the 4-feet needle
rock ; after passing Chung-chau, steer for Lintin, br for Macao road.
If the channel be taken between the Great Ladrone and Gap i-ock,
or the narrow passage between the latter and the Kypong islands, steer
to northward, and proceed along the west sides of Ai-chau and Lafsami.
Or if bound into Macao road, there is a more direct passage about a mile
wide, with 13 fathoms water, between Pak-leak and Chuk-wan, then on
the north side of Tong-ho and Liungnib, and to the soutlnvard of Ty-lo,
which track lies nearly in a direct line towards the road. Although this
channel is safe in the day-time great care must be taken to avoid the
Raleigh rock (page 24). There is a safe passage between the Great
Ladrone and Pak-leak, with 14 to 9 fathoms water in it, but recollect the
sunken rock lying half a mile from the north side of the Little Ladrone,
and also the Clio rock ; a vessel taking this route should pass to the
southward of Potoe.
To CANTON RIVER through the GREAT -WEST CHANNEL This
channel, on the west side of the Ladrone islands, is generally used
by vessels bound to Canton during the strength of the South-west mori-
CHAP, ii.] THROUGH THE GREAT WEST CHANNEL. 45
soon, and to do this they endeavour to fall in with the Great Ladrone
bearing about North or N. by E. ; but late in the season when the winds
incline to the eastward, or at any other time when they are expected to
come from the northward or eastward, it will be prudent to make the
North-east head of the Lema islands, and proceed towards the river by
the Lema and Lantao channels, page 42. Here the risk of being horsed
to the westward by the freshes setting out of the Great West channel
is avoided, and a northerly wind will lead to an anchorage in the river.
When Typhoons happen on the coast, they generally commence in a
moderate gale from the northward, which is a leading wind for these
channels, and as the wind commonly veers to the eastward before it
blows hard, a vessel with the first of the gale may get well up the river
above Lintin, where these storms blow with less violence than outside
among the islands.
As the approach to Canton estuary is probably more safe than that of
any other large river in the wo^'ld, there being no sandbanks at the
entrance, and the channels amongst the islands outside being mostly all
free from hidden danger, a stranger should not hesitate to push through
the nearest convenient channel without a pilot, if the weather is tolerably
clear. But the streams must be attended to, as they set in different
directions amongst the islands to the south-eastward according to the
prevailing winds ; a strong easterly wind generally producing a westerly
current or tide, which abates in strength when the ebb should be setting
to the south-east. If an outside pilot can be obtained at a moderate rate
he may be useful, to run the vessel into some cove or place of shelter,
if a storm should be approaching, or if she be in a disabled state. Macao
road should not be used if there is an appearance of bad weather, but
run well up the river above Lintin.
About South 30 miles from the Great Ladrone, the depths increase
to 27 or 28 fathoms ; about 60 miles from it, to 42 and 44 fathoms ; and
soundings extend on the same meridian to about lat. 20 N. ; from
hence they continue westward towards Hainan head ; but converge
towards the land, with deeper water eastward of the meridian of the
Ladrone islands. A vessel falling in with the land in thick weather
may easily distinguish whether it is that of the islands to the eastward
of the Great Ladrone ; for the Kypong and Lema islands have soundings
of 23 and 24 fathoms close to ; whereas the islands between the Great
Ladrone and St. John to the westward have only 10 and 11 fathoms
at a considerable distance outside. These are also large and of regular
appearance, resembling a coast more than islands; but those to the
eastward, are detached, high, and uneven, excepting Tam-kan, the largest
of the Lema islands, Avhich is long and of an undulating form.
46 APPROACHES TO CANTON RIVER. [CHAP. 11.
The freshes out of Canton river set almost constantly from the south
end of Montanha, along the shores of the islands to the westward, at
the rate of 1 to 2 knots an hour, particularly with strong easterly winds ;
and although at times there seems to be on the surface a flood tide setting
eastward, or into the entrance of the river, the freshes underneath
continue to run westward, by which sailing vessels are rendered un-
governable, even in fresh winds. Many vessels from this cause, after
getting near Montanha, or between it and Potoe island, have been drifted
nearly to St. John island whilst making every endeavour, with moderate
winds, to keep their heads to the eastward. Steering, therefore, for
the Great West channel, never borrow near San-chau, or the other
islands to the westward, unless it is blowing strong from the S.W.
to avoid being drifted to the westward. The freshes abate at times,
and then weak tides set to the eastward ; but as these are not of long
duration, a vessel should keep on the eastern side of the channel in deep
water towards the Ladrone islands and Potoe, and anchor instantly if
she finds the current is drifting her westward.
In the strength of the South-west monsoon, (as before stated in
page 45,) endeavour, if the wind be steady between S.E. and S.W., to
make the Great Ladrone, bearing about North, and never fall in with
the islands to the westward ; this is the more necessary after the middle
of August, when easterly winds are likely to prevail several days together?
as they are, more or less, at all seasons. If a vessel falls to leeward
about St. John, in September or October, she will generally make a
tedious passage to Macao if she keeps close along the islands, where
the current or freshes setting westward will oblige her frequently to
anchor ; as these freshes prevail only in shoal water, near the islands,
the best plan to adopt is, to stand well off the land, and take every
advantage of the favourable shifts of wind, to get to the eastward.
Having arrived abreast of Chung-chau-si, or if the vessel has anchored
in Macao road, with a leading wind she may weigh with the ebb, if she
can haul over north-eastward for Lintin ; for the tide will then act
upon her port bow, and keep her off the western shore : whereas, with
an easterly wind, the flood is likely to force the vessel into shoal water
near that shore. With a fair wind, steer about N.N.E. J E. from Macao
road for Lintin ; if it be night from 4-^ to 5 fathoms are good soundings ;
for at low water springs, greater depths ought not to be expected, until
several miles north-eastward of the road.
In turning up with the northerly wind and flood tide, tack from the west
side of the channel in about 4 fathoms, according to the vessel's draught,
the lead being a safe guide along the western shore, where the bottom
generally consists of mud. The islands eastward of Macao road may be
CHAP, ii.] THROUGH THE GREAT WEST CHANNEL. 47
safely approached, having 5 fathoms near them, and when past Chung -
chau-si, the depths will increase to 9 and 10 fathoms on the east side
the channel, towards Lantao. Working from hence to Lintin in the
night, stand to 41 fathoms in the west part of the channel, and do not
deepen above 7 or 7-^ fathoms to the eastward. Here, the tides become
stronger as the vessel proceeds upwards.
In Macao road, and between it and Lintin, the tides are frequently
irregular, setting in a different direction at the surface to what they
do underneath, by which vessels are rendered ungovernable in light
winds. The ebb is stronger, and continues longer than the flood ; the
freshes often running out below, when a flood tide at the surface is
setting into the river.
From iiiNTiar to the BOCA TIGRIS When within 7 miles of
Lintin steer for its west point bearing about N. ^ E., and when abreast
the point run to the northward in soundings from 5 to 6^ fathoms :
with a westerly wind, borrow on the west side of the channel ; if it is
easterly keep in 6 to 6^ fathoms with the flood tide. It will be safe to
proceed 9 or 12 miles above Lintin, even in the night, with a working
wind, the lead being a certain guide, by tacking from the west side of the
channel in 4^ fathoms, and from the east side in 6^ fathoms ; but when
about 6 or 7 miles northward of Lintin, tack in 5^ fathoms from the east
side of the channel, for the deepest water is near the edge of Lintin
sand, and if a vessel begins to shoal on its verge to 5 fathoms, she will
not have room to tack.*
Lantao is frequently obscured by clouds or haze, but when its summit
is visible the west peak of that island affords a good mark for running up
this channel in the day. Steering N. by W. or N. by W. -J W. from the
west end of Lintin, draw gradually the high west peak of Lantao on with
the west end of Lintin, and continue to bring it more easterly until it is
on with Lintin peak, or a little open eastward of that peak, and keep
it so, until the vessel is more than half way from Lintin towards Lankeet.
Then, if the wind is contrary, Lantao west peak may be brought nearly
to the east end of Lintin, in tacking from the east side of the channel,
and well westward of Lintin peak when tacking from the west side ; but
on a nearer approach to Lankeet, the west peak of Lantao must not be
brought westward of Lintin peak.
When within 5 miles of Lankeet, the west peak of Lantao must not be
brought more westerly than touching the east end of Lintin, when in the
west side of the channel ; and to a considerable way open with the same,
* See Charts, Sheets 1 and 2 of Canton River, Nos. 1,782, 1,741 ; scales, m = 1% and
3 inches.
48 APPROACHES TO CANTON RIVER. [CHAP. n.
when on the eastern side. Here the depths decrease, and there is only about
a fathom more water in the east side than in the west side of the channel.
A narrow mud bank, with 2 and 2 fathoms at low tide, bounds the
west side of the channel in this part, and extends in a N.N.W. direction
about 4 miles, terminating nearly 1^ miles to the S.W. of Lankeet. There
is a channel of 4^ and 5 fathoms westward of this mud bank, into which
or upon the bank, the pilots sometimes get vessels in the night ; but with
those of large draught they are more inclined to borrow close over to the
eastward, whereby they have frequently grounded upon Lintin bar ;
it will therefore be prudent, when the pilot appears confused or uncertain
of his position, to anchor before the vessel shoals her water.
From a position about half a mile off the west end of Lintin, a N. b. W.f W.
course would lead fair through the channel, close on the east side of Sam-
pan-chau, were the tides to run in that direction ; but from Lintin they
set N.N.W. and S.S.E. nearly as far as the north end of Lintin bar, and
from thence to Sam-pan-chau about N.W. by W. and S.E. by E.
Steering to the northward, with the west peak of Lantao open a little
eastward of Lintin peak, page 47, or keeping between 4^ and 5^ fathoms
if the weather is cloudy, Lankeet island will be seen making like a saddle,
and shortly afterwards two small islets or rocks will appear close to its
eastern end. These rocks will be nearly on with the middle of the opening
of the Boca Tigris when first seen, and should not be brought more
easterly ; nor in working ought they to be brought to touch the point of
Tiger island, which forms the west side of the opening, until within
4^ miles of Lankeet ; being then northward of Lintin bar, a vessel may
edge over to the eastward. There is no good cross mark to know
when clear of the bar ; but a pagoda on the western shore bearing
S.W. W., will lead northward of its extremity. From the northern
end of the bar Sam-pan-chau is a little open with Anung-hoy point
N.N.W. W., and the little hill on the east end of Lankeet N.W. N.,
distant about 4| miles.
Shortly after the rocks off the east end of Lankeet are on with the
middle of the opening of Boca Tigris, or rather more westerly, Sam-pan-
chau will be recognized when within 6 or 7 miles of Lankeet, and will then
appear under the land, a little eastward of the high round summit of
Anung-hoy, a high, round hill, sloping to a point on the west side, and
forming the eastern boundary of the Boca Tigris. Anung-hoy peak
in line with Sam-pan-chau hummock, N. by W. f W., leads westward of
Lintin bar, and eastward of Lankeet spit. With a working wind keep
Sam-pan-chau between the eastern shoulder of Anung-hoy hill and
the west point of the same ; but that islet must not be opened westward
of Anung-hoy point until clear of the north end of Lintin bar.
CHAP, ii.] THROUGH THE FAN-SI- AK CHANNEL. 49
With an easterly wind, to prevent being set by the tide towards Lankeet,
keep on the east side of the channel, with Sam-pan-chau shut in a little
eastward of Anung-hoy point, or nearly on with it. When within
4 miles of Lankeet a vessel may stand well to the eastward in working,
opening Sam-pan-chau considerably westward of the point, being then
to the northward of the extremity of Lintin bar ; do not, however, stand
so far over as to bring Anung-hoy point to touch Chuen-pee, but tack
before they come on, for farther eastward the water is shoal. After
opening Sam-pan-chau with Anung-hoy point, whi<^bi with a westerly wind
need not be done until abreast Lankeet, steer then direct for the land of
Anung-hoy, giving Sam-pan-chau a berth to the westward of half a mile
or more at discretion, in 9 or 8 fathoms ; the depths from thence will
be 9, 8, and 7 fathoms to the entrance of the Bocca Tigris, increasing to
13 and 15 fathoms abreast South Wantong.
If in a vessel of small draught, a cast of 3^- or 4 fathoms hard ground
be got before Lankeet is seen, in a clear night, she may be certain of its
being on Lintin sand, and will deepen fast on hauling westward into
the channel.
To CANTON RIVER through FAN-SI-AX, CHANWEXu It Would
be imprudent to attempt the channel on the east side of Lintin in a
vessel drawing 23 feet water, being very narrow just above and about
Tree island, with a considerable swell in it when blowing strong from the
northward. The southern part of the channel between the White rock
and the east side of Lintin south spit is about 2 miles wide, with 7 and
8 fathoms, decreasing towards the spit to 5 fathoms. In working to the
northward, do not stand so far west as to shoal to 5 fathoms, or to
bring the east side of Lintin to bear North of N. by W. When
northward of Tong-ku, if the vessel is of 20 or 21 feet draught keep
the eastern shore aboard, avoiding the spits of shoal water at the points
of the islands until off the north end of Mah-chau, the shoal off the
south end of which will be avoided by not shutting Tree island in with
Mah-chau, or by not bringing the highest peak of Mah-chau westward of
N. i W., when the White rock is in one with the north end of Fan-si-ak,
which is the mark for the south end of Mah-chau spit.
From hence to Tree island, when standing towards Lintin bar or Fan-
si-ak bank, keep the lead going, and tack in 4 fathoms or less, according
to the vessel's draught ; but the lead will be the best guide, as the bank
is much curved in shape. Standing to the eastward, do not bring the
north or highest peak of Mah-chau to the westward of South, and when
the south point of Sui-chan bears N.E. N. do not bring the tree on Tree
island to the westward of N. by W. ^ W., to avoid the shoal spit of 2 or
[o.] D
50 APPROACHES TO CANTON RIVER. [CHAP. n.
3 fathoms, which extends S.S.E. from that island nearly a mile. When
thus far, endeavour to pass between Tree island and the fishing stakes
No. 1 (in the chart) placed near it ; this island is safe to approach
close to the rocks, but on the Channel banks, on the western side of
these stakes, the water shoals suddenly to 2 fathoms, irregular soundings,
sand and mud.
Being close to the west end of Tree island, do not bring the tree to
bear more to the southward than S.E. 1 E., this bearing being close on
the edge of the shore bank. Standing to the westward, do not bring the
White rock off Fan-si-ak to the eastward of the saddle on the east end of
Lintin, or the east end of the fishing stakes No. 3 (in the chart) to the
northward of N.W. by N., the lead not being a sufficient guide for the
Channel banks. If the fishing stakes be not removed, they appeal 1 to be
a preferable guide to the landmark, being always discernible, but either
may be used in clear Aveather. When within half a mile of the stakes
No. 3, the passage becomes wider, extending from the shore bank to
Lintin bar, with 4, 4, and 4^ fathoms in it at low water, shoaling
gradually on either side, so as to render the lead a guide in tacking, the
bottom being very soft mud.
If close to Tree island with a leading wind, steer direct for the centre
of the fishing stakes No. 3, and pass them on either side, as circum-
stances require.
There is another range of fishing stakes (numbered 4), bearing
S.W. -^ W. of No. 3, which will, when near them and bearing South,
warn a vessel of her proximity to Lintin bar.
If the vessel is under 20 feet draught a wider range may be taken, but
she ought, if possible, to follow the above directions, and at any rate
pass between Tree island and the fishing stakes No. 1, or close to
their western end, and avoid the Channel banks. If drawing 17 feet or
under she may pass up or down any part of the channel, keeping to
the eastward of Fan-si-ak well over towards Mah-chau, avoiding the shoal
spits which project from the ends of the islands.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, in the Fan-si-ak channel at
Ih. Om., but the rise is irregular, especially on the neaps, the rise and fall
being then only 2^ to 3 feet, and from 6 to 8^- feet on the springs ;
velocity from 3 to 4 knots, and from 2 to 2^ knots on the neaps.
A vessel proceeding up with a working wind should weigh instantly
the tide slackens sufficiently for her to make any progress, in whatever
part of the channel she may have anchored. The passage between Lintin
and Fan-si-ak should not be attempted in vessels of large draught, having
only 2-^ to 2f fathoms in it at low water.
CHAP, ii.] CHUEN-PEE CHANNEL. BOCA TIGRIS. 51
CANTON RIVEE.
The entrance to Canton river, (Chu kiang of the Chinese,) is formed
between Chuen-pee and Ty-cock-tau, or perhaps more strictly between
Ty-cock-tau and Anung-hoy. It is divided into two channels by the
Wan-tong islands ; that to the eastward of the islands is generally
used by vessels of large draught, and is named Boca Tigris (Tigers mouth
entrance) and Fumun by the pilots ; that to the westward of the islands
is called Bremer channel.*
CHUEN-PEE POINT, the south extreme of Chuen-pee island, is close
to a small peak called Chuen-pee hill, and N.N.E. E. 1^ miles from
Sam-pan-chau. On the north-west point of Chuen-pee there is a small
watch-turret, with a fort under it on the north-west side ; and midway
between this point and Chuen-pee point there is a ledge, named Pratt
rock, lying a quarter of a mile off shore, with from 6 to 9 fathoms close
outside.
Anchorage. A small sandy beach will be seen on either side of Chuen-
pee point, and fresh water may be obtained in the bay on the southern
side ; but vessels of large draught cannot anchor near it, the soundings
being shoal on a sandy flat, extending from the point to the eastward
and south-eastward. The anchorage is in 6 to 7 fathoms, about a third
of a mile from the beach on the northern side of the point.
TIDES. At this anchorage it is high water, full and change, at about
2h. Om., and springs rise 7 to 8^ feet.
ANSON BAY, between Chuen-pee and Anung-hoy islands, is very
shoal ; from the depth of 5 or 6 fathoms the soundings suddenly decrease
to 2 fathoms within a line joining the north-west point of Chuen-pee and
Anung-hoy point, affording only a harbour for boats in Junk creek.
BOWER POINT, the south-east extreme of the island of Ty-cock-
tau, forms the western point of entrance to Canton river. From this
point to Sam-pan-chau, the west side of Chuen-pee channel is bordered
by a shoal flat over which boats can only pass to East and West Ow-chau,
the two small islets lying southward of the point.
ANUNG-HOY POINT (called Namshan by the pilots), the south-west
point of Anung-hoy island, bears N. ^ E. 2i miles from Bower point, and
See Charts, Sheets 3, 4, and 5 of Canton River, Nos. 1,740, 1,742, 1,739 ; scales,
3 inches.
D 2
52 CANTON RIVER. [CHAP. n.
N.W. i N. 3 miles from Chuen-pee fort, and with Keshen point half :i
mile to the north-west, forms the eastern side of the Boca Tigris. The
principal fortifications for defending the strait are built on this face of
Anung-hoy, and Anung-hoy peak rises immediately behind them to the
height of 1,500 feet.
ISLANDS. North and South Wantong are two small
islands lying nearly in mid-channel abreast Anung-hoy point, and form
the western side of the Boca Tigris. They bear N.N.W. and S.S.E.
from each other, distant a third of a mile apart, and are surrounded by a
bank which extends l miles in a S.E. by S. direction from the southern-
most island, at which distance the depth is only 4 fathoms.
DIRECTIONS. From abreast Sam-pan-chau with a leading wind
a N.W. by N. course for 4| miles will lead to the entrance of the Boca
Tigris ; but with a turning wind be careful when standing towards
Chuen-pee not to borrow too close to Pratt rock. When standing west-
ward towards the shoal flat extending south-eastward of South Wantong,
tack before the eastern extreme of Tiger island touches the eastern part
of the fort in North Wantong.
The Boca Tigris has deep water and uneven bottom, and is much
contracted by the Chain rock, above water, lying E.S.E. a quarter of a
mile from the east point of North Wantong ; and although the passage
between it and Anung-hoy point is too narrow for woi'king a large vessel,
she can always back and fill through with the tide. The tide runs strong
through in eddies, and vessels generally keep nearest the eastern shore in
passing. If detained here by the Chinese authorities, the best position to
anchor is in 7 or 8 fathoms, abreast of and about a quarter of a mile
northward of the fort and turret on North Wantong, taking care,
however, to avoid the Wantong rock, lying North nearly a cable's length
from its eastern point.
The Bremer channel, to the westward of the Wantong islands, car-
ries a depth of 10 to 5 fathoms, and was frequently taken by Her
Majesty's ships during the operations in Canton river in 1841. If
intending to use this channel, the first village seen to the northward
of Bower point open south of the first bluff point above Ty-cock-
tau fort (this latter point has the appearance of an island), will lead to
the southward of the south extreme of the shoal flat off South Wau-
tong, and the east extreme of Tiger island just open to the westward of
the west end of South Wantong will lead along its western edge in 5
fathoms. When abreast North Wantong, about ! cables' lengths from
its west point, steer about North to avoid the shoal flat on the western
shore.
CHJLP. H.] BOCA TIGRIS. TIGER ISLAND. 53
BUFF ROCK. This dangerous pointed rock, with only 18 feet over
it, lies about N.N.W. f W. nearly a mile from the eastern end of North
Wantong. It has 7 to 9 fathoms around it at low water, and from
it the small round hummock on the western part of South Wantong
is seen over the western slope of North Wantong, between the small
redoubt with a tree on it and the point ; and the high land of Geefou
island is touching the western brow of Tiger island. A vessel will pass
eastward of this rock by not bringing Sam-pan-chau to touch the east end
of North Wantong, until she has approached Tiger island so near as not to
see the high land of Geefou to the westward of it.
TIGER ISLAND __ N.W. |- N. If milea from the east end of North
Wantong is the Tigers Claw, the south-east extreme of a remarkable high
island, called by the Chinese Ty-fu and by Europeans Tiger island, the
summit of which appears cleft. A shoal extends to the south-east from
the Claw, and at the distance of a quarter of a mile the depth is only
3^ fathoms. There is a fort on the north-east side of the island.
BATE ROCK, with only 14 feet on it, was discovered by the late
Captain W. T. Bate, K.N., in 1857. It lies 2 cables to the north-
ward of the north extreme of Tiger island, with the fort on that
island bearing S.E. ^ S. ; the highest part of the island (eastern summit)
S. E. ; and the north-west extreme of the island nearly in line with a
small granite boulder on the summit of the hill on the western shore of the
river S.W. f W. It is steep-to, having 10 fathoms water, mud, close to the
eastward, and 7 fathoms between it and the island. To pass outside or to
the north-east of the rock, keep the east extreme of North Wantong open
of Tier island fort.
FLAT. About a third of a mile to the eastward of the
fort on Tiger island, is a projecting point of the Towling flat. Both
this flat and sand are much increased, and have extended considerably to
the westward since the survey of this river in 1840. The sand is now
(in 1860) an island covered with vegetation, and never wholly under
water even at the highest tides. The old mark for the western edge of
the flat in 3 fathoms, was Tomb point (the next point north-west of
Chuen-pee point) in line with Keshen point S.E. S. ; but Tomb point
must now be kept well open in passing the flat.
Vessels turning to windward from the Boca Tigris towards Tiger island
may stand to the eastward and shut in the high land of Chuen-pee with
Anung-hoy until abreast the south-east point of Tiger island. If of
large draught they had better back and fill, between the island and the
flat, as the tides are strong.
54 CANTON RIVER. [CHAT. n.
The SMAXiXi BAR is the name given, in the chart of this river by
Lieutenant D. Ross, I.N., 1815, to a small 2 fathoms bank of hard
ground lying nearly in mid-channel, about 4| miles northward of Tiger
island. Since that period the bank appears to have grown up and
extended at least half a mile further south. When surveyed by
Captain Bate, R.N., in 1857, it was a mile in extent, north and south, and
near its centre, west two-thirds of a mile from Blake point, a patch was
i'ound with only 10 feet on it ; the depths on the other parts of the bank
were 2 to 3 fathoms.
H.M.S. Calcutta grounded and remained 13^ hours on this bank
when proceeding up Canton river, 8th November 1856. When upon it
Geefou rock, off the east end of Geefou island, bore South 4 miles ;
Saw-shee hill E. -- S., and Second Bar pagoda N.W. by N.
SECOND BAR. The channel for vessels of large draught becomes
very narrow abreast a large inlet on the eastern shore of the river,
called Second Bar creek, the entrance to which bears S.E. by E. ^ E. from
the Second Bar pagoda. The southern part of the Second bar begins at
a third of a mile from the shore abreast a small creek immediately south-
Avard of Second Bar creek ; from thence the bar extends 2^ miles in it
N. by W. ^ W. direction, and carries 9 to 16 feet at low tide.
FIRST BAR, at nearly 7 miles above the Second bar, is formed
between a shoal bank of sand bordering the south side of First Bar island,
and a shoal spit projecting from the eastern point of the low Flat islands.
The least depth on it in 1857 was 20 feet.
BRUNSWICK. PATCHES, on one of which the ship Brunswick struck
in 1798, and the Wyndham was totally lost in 1815, lie about two-thirds
of a mile above the west end of First Bar island, on the northern shore of
the river. The rock on which the Brunswick struck is described to be about
half a cable long, in a N.E. by E. and S.W. by W. direction, with irregular
depths of 8 to 18 feet on it at low water. When upon it the Second Bar
pagoda bore S. by E. f E. ; South Chop-house S.S.E. ^ E. ; Whampoa
pagoda W. | N. ; west extreme of First Bar island S.E. i E. ; and a large
house inland N. ^ W. ; and with this house bearing from N. ^ W. to
N. by E. a vessel will be in the line of the rock. There are channels
between the patches, and to the southward of them, but in the absence of
leading marks the narrow 4-fathoms channel to the northward of the
patches, close along the north shore, is the most generally used.
WHAMPOA ANCHORAGE is in American reach, between the north
sides of Danes and French islands, and the eastern part of Whampoa
island, on which the town of Whampoa is built. It is a safe anchorage
CHAP, ii.] FIRST BAR. CANTON. 55
with a moderate tide, and from 5 to 6 fathoms, soft mud bottom ; there is,
however, scarcely room for two large ships to moor abreast, which
occasions the lower part of the shipping to lie in English reach, abreast
the entrance of Junk passage.
TIDES. At Whampoa, it was high water, full and change, in the
month of March at Ih. 40m.; in April, at Ih. lorn. ; and in May and
June, at Oh. 30m. ; and the rise at springs was 7 or 8 feet. In
March the day and night tides rose to the same level. From April to
October the day tides were the higher ; and from November to February
the lower. In May and June, spring tides rose 4 feet, and the neaps
2 feet higher than in March.
BOCKS. H.M.S. Actfson, April 1858, was taken into Mr. Cooper's
stone dock on the northern part of Danes island, drawing 15 feet forward,
and 15^ feet aft. The dock is 350 feet in length, and 280 feet on the
blocks. The gate 75 feet wide at top, 71 feet at bottom. Vessels of
not more than 17 feet draught can be taken into it at very high tides.
There are numerous mud docks for vessels of smaller drauht.
The city of Canton, the capital of the province of Quang-
tung, stands on the north bank of the river, about 30 miles above the
Boca Tigris, 70 miles from Macao, and 75 miles from Hong Kong. It is
(in 1858) surrounded by a strong wall between 6 and 7 miles in circum-
ference, the foundation of which is of sandstone, the upper part brick.
The wall is 25 to 40 feet high, and 20 feet thick, having an esplanade
on the inside, and pathways leading to the ramparts on three sides.
The city consists of three divisions separated from each other by thick
walls running east and west ; the north or larger division is called the old
city, and is occupied by the Tartar population ; the south division is the
new city, but the suburbs are more extensive than either of the walled
divisions. The houses are built so near the wall, on both sides, that it is
hardly visible when walking round it except on the north side. There
are 12 outer gates, each defended by a two-storied house, which commands
the wall on either side. There are 4 gates in the partition wall, and two
water gates, through which boats pass from east to west across the new
city.
A ditch once encompassed the wall, but it is now dry on the north
side ; on the other three sides, and within the city, it, and most of the
canals, are filled by the tide, and empty at low water. A five-storied
pagoda stands on a wall, to the north-east of the great north gate, and is
loop-holed for musketry, and would hold 500 men ; it commands the whole
city, and also the two forts to the north-west of it on the outside. Gough
56 CANTON RIVER. [CHAP. n.
fort is about 500 yards outside the city north wall, and is slightly com-
manded by the fort inside. The population of the city and suburbs is
estimated at about one million.
The principal article of exportation is tea ; the other exports consist
chiefly in porcelain, raw and wrought silks, nankeen clothe, camphor,
alum, quicksilver, turmeric, &c. &c.; and the imports from England are
woollen and cotton manufactures, clocks and watches, hardware, iron in
bolts and bars, lead, tin plates, Indian produce, spices, miscellaneous
articles, Sec. In the year 1844 the total export of tea was 72,567,111 Ibs.,
of which 15, 825,000 Ibs. went to America; 2,338,867 Ibs. to Holland;
101,956 Ibs. to France ; 17,109 Ibs. to Belgium ; 449,643 Ibs. to the Hanse
towns ; 470,887 Ibs. to India ; 557,765 Ibs. to Australia ; 28,001 Ibs. to the
East India islands ; 80,864 Ibs. to the Cape of Good Hope ; 43,675 Ibs. to
Peru; 2,488 Ibs. to Mexico ; 6,000 Ibs. to Brazil; 130,800 Ibs. to Nova Scotia;
and 334,423 Ibs. to unknown destinations. The total shipment of tea to
Great Britain in 1845-6, was 57,622, 803 Ibs.; in 1846-7, 53,448,339 Ibs.;
but a considerable portion of the latter shipment, perhaps 10, 000,000 Ibs.,
was from Shang-hai. In 1848, 176 British vessels of 73,975 tons, with
goods to the value of 8,653,033 dollars, left, and 171 of 72,315 tons, with
goods to the value of 6,534,597 dollars, entered the port of Canton.
TIDES. It was high water, full and change, in the river off Canton at
fih. 40m. in March, and at Ih. 40m. in May and June ; the springs rose
about 5^- feet. During the North-east monsoon the tides in the river
rise 2 to 3 feet higher in the night than in the day ; but in the South-
west monsoon the day tides are the highest.
BIRECTIOJTS. Having entered Canton river, by the Boca Tigris, be
careful when approaching the Duff rock not to bring Sam-pan-chau to
touch the east end of North Wantong, until the high land of Geefou
island is shut in with the western part of Tiger island. In passing
through the channel between the latter island and Towling flat, observe
that Tomb point, on Chuen-pee island, kept well open of Anung-hoy north
fort, will lead westward of the western edge of the flat ; and that the
eastern end of North Wantong kept open of the fort on Tiger island will
lead north-east of Bate rock. With a working wind, a vessel of large
draught had better back and fill through this channel, as the tides in it
are strong.
After 'passing Tiger island keep the watch tower on Chuen-pee fort
open of Anung-hoy north fort, until Bower point, the east extreme
of Ty-cock-tau, is in line with the eastern side of Tiger island ; then
steer up the river with this latter mark on and it will lead in the deepest
part of the channel, but nearest to Towling island, in 7 or 8 fathoms water.
CHAP. n.J DIRECTIONS. 57
This mark will not answer much farther than to bring the remarkable
high part of Geefou island on with the highest land to the westward, or
bearing S.W., but keep more eastward, and open Bower point again.
From thence steer to the northward, pass on either side of the Small bar,
and attend to the soundings on the chart.
There are two Fairway marks for crossing the Second bar, one, the west
point of Tiger island in line with Grassy Tongue bearing S. by E. easterly,
leading through the western channel, and the other, Wantong tower, in
one with the grassy edge of the land at Amherst point about S. by E. ^ E.,
leading through the eastern channel, which is the route generally taken ;
but the services of a pilot are here indispensable to a vessel of 20 feet
draught, without the channel be previously buoyed, for the knolls or shoal
patches being formed of sand and gravel mixed with mud, are subject to
alter in position by the freshes of the river and the spring tides, which
also render the navigable channel changeable. A pilot can be obtained
from amongst the fishermen on the spot, who then buoy the channel with
their sampans, but sufficient time should be given them to sound with
their bamboos and to take their stations properly, or else a vessel is likely
to take the ground. Vessels often ground and lie in a dangerous state for
a tide ; and this often proceeds from two or three pushing over together,
as there is no time to be lost after the water has risen sufficiently for a
vessel drawing 23 or 24 feet to pass over.
Vessels of large draught proceeding up the river from an anchorage
below the Second bar in the North-east monsoon, or with a weather tide,
should be under weigh by the last quarter flood, to save the tide across
the bar ; for the channel between the knolls being very narrow, they must
back and fill through ; if of moderate draught they may weigh much
earlier. The difficulty in crossing the bar is in ascertaining correctly the
shoal patches on either side the channel, and it will be best to place the
boats on them at the first of the flood. When the Second Bar pagoda
bears W. by S., the bar is crossed, and the bottom will be soft and loose,
unlike that on the bar, which is in parts hard and stony.
After passing the Second bar, keep between a third and half a mile
from the eastern shore until First Bar island is approached, when the
river begins to be contracted and requires great caution. When Whampoa
pagoda is observed just on with the northernmost clump or hill on Danes
island, haul out more into the middle of the river to avoid the shoal ground
off the south side of First Bar island.
As no safe marks can be given for leading towards the First ban
between First Bar island and the easternmost of the Flat islands, it will
be prudent for a stranger, without a pilot, to buoy the south-east extreme
of the spit extending off the eastern Flat island, and also the Brunswick
58 SI KIANG OR WEST RIVER. LCHAP. n.
patches. The best route appears to be, when the South Chop-house on
the southern shore of the river, bears S.S.W., to haul over to First Bar
island to avoid the spit, and then steer in about N.W. ^ N., passing about
a cable's length along the western face of the island. When Whampoa
pagoda is seen clear to the northward of the Flat islands, steer for the
northern shore, which must be skirted at about half a cable's length,
passing through the narrow 4-fathoms channel northward of the Bruns-
wick patches.
As the northern patch is approached, or when the large house inland
(page 54) bears about N. by W., be careful in preserving the distance of
half a cable from the shore, and when the house bears eastward of X. by E.
the danger will be passed. From thence steer towards Whampoa through
Cambridge reach, borrowing towards the northern shore. Entering
English reach the southern or Danes island shore is generally preferred,
to avoid the shoal flat off Junk and Watson islands, taking care to give
a berth to the cluster of rocks, covered at half flood, near Jardine point,
the east point of entrance to French river. The anchorage off Whampoa
is in from 5 to 6 fathoms, over a soft mud bottom ; but there is scarcely
room for two large ships to moor abreast, which occasions the lower part
of the shipping, when there are many arrivals, to be moored in English
reach.
Several of the other passages leading to Canton were used by H.M.
ships during the operations against that city in 1841. The Blenheim,
drawing 23 feet, proceeded through Blenheim passage and anchored in
Brown reach ; the Nimrod, of 15 feet draught, also used this passage,
and entered Macao Fort passage between 49th and 26th points ; the
Modeste, of 13^ feet draught, through American reach and Elliot passage,
passing southward of Narrow island ; the Alligator, of about 15 feet
draught, through Junk creek and Whampoa channel as far as Kuper
island ; and the Sulphur of about the same draught anchored to the
westward of the city in Sulphur reach.
SI KIANG OR WEST RIVER.
The following description of the leading features of the Si kiang or
West river, and other creeks and passages explored by the gun boat
squadron under the command of Capt. J. J. M'Cleverty, C.B., is by
Lieut. C. J. Bullock, H.M.S. Dove, February 1859.
The expedition, consisting of the Haughty, Forester, Staunch, Starling,
Jl'atcltfiil, Clown. Kestrel, Woodcock, and Janus gun boats, left iln
CHAP, ii.] SAI-WAN PASSAGE. TAI-LUNG CHANNEL. 5Q
anchorage of Canton on the 16th February, and proceeding down the river
entered the Sai-wan passage by the Si-chi-tau channel (Hills passage),
which passes directly east of the Second Bar hills.*
SAX-WAN PASSAGE was easily navigated until abreast the town of
Sai-wan, where the stream divides into two channels round a large
middle ground of hard sand (there was also said to be rock) named Sai-
wan bank, on which several of the vessels grounded in attempting to cross
the river, both going and returning.
Sai-wan Bank will be avoided by keeping the south shore of the
river aboard in approaching Sai-wan, and hauling close round the point
where the river suddenly winds east of the bank ; it may also be crossed
near the island west of Sai-wan in 7 feet at low water.
TAM-CHAV PASSAGE. The rocky mound, 50 feet high, opposite Sai-
wan is an excellent guide into the Tam-chau passage, the second or third
turning to the southward being taken. The squadron proceeded by the
first, which was found to lead into the Wilder passage, passing westward
of Lan-keet ; contrary to information locally received it turned round the
Tam-chau hills, and joined the Tam-chau passage. It is in some parts
very narrow, but affords a good channel for gun boats. Its communica-
tions towards Tiger island and Tam-chau were not examined ; the latter
was said to be impassable for gun boats.
TAI-X.UNG CHANNEL The squadron returned and entered the
Tam-chau passage turning into the Tai-lung channel, which runs out of
it westward.
Tai-iung Rocks. No obstruction was found in the Tai-lung channel
till within 3 miles of the village of Yun-kai-tau, Tai-lung Hill pagoda
bearing N.E. by E. At this position the river splits round a flat
island, a mile in length. The north passage is almost barred by a bed of
rocks, some of which are dry, with a channel of 7 feet only at IOAV
water. The south passage is the best, but it is very narrow at its east
end, and made still more so by a rock dry at low water lying nearly
in the centre of the passage, and on which the Woodcock struck, when
leading the squadron through ; it lies nearer to the south shore. The
passage had been sounded the previous day, without the rock being dis-
covered.
* See Charts : Canton river, Sheet 3, No. 1,740, scale m = 3 inches ; and the Si
kiang or West river, Sheets 1, 2, and 3, Nos. 2,733, 2,734, 2,735 ; scales, m = 0-72 of
an inch.
60 SI KIANG OR WEST RIVER. [CHAP. n.
TTung-kai-tau Rock, awash at half tide, lies about 3 or 4 cables west-
ward of the village of Yung-kai-tau, above the west Shun-tak branch ; to
avoid it, keep the north shore aboard. The Clcnvn struck on this rock on
her passage down.
Forester Rock, which probably sometimes dries, lies in mid-channel,
with 5 to 7 fathoms on either side of it, at the eastern end of the lime-
burning village (name not known), 3 miles from the West river. The
best guide for its position is, the commencement of some rocky hills
on the north bank abreast which it lies ; keep this shore aboard. The
Forester struck on this rock on her return voyage.
On the 19th of February the 1 squadron entered the Si kiang or West
river, also called the Blue river from the clearness of its waters, and on
the 20th reached the San-shui junction, anchoring the same evening
at Shao-king. Here they broke new ground.
The direct channel from San-shui to Fat-shan and Canton is said
not to be navigable by vessels drawing above 4 feet water ; there was,
however, no means of verifying this report. About 2 miles below or
to the eastward of San-shui, on this branch, there is a flourishing com-
mercial town called Sai-nam, which probably might be easily reached
by small river steamers. The rise and fall of tide here appeared to be
5 or 6 feet.
SHAG-XING, a walled city of the second class, with an extensive
suburb lying to the westward, is situate on the left or north bank of
the river, 20 miles above the San-shui junction, and 80 miles from the sea
at Macao, in latitude, by observation, 23 03' N., and longitude, by
rough computation, 113 03' E. The river is here 6 cables to 7^ cables
broad, with a depth of from 5 to 6 fathoms on the north shore.
TIDES. The tidal influence was felt at Shao-kiug, there being 51 rise
and fall at this season of 3 feet or more : but the stream, though completely
checked, never turned.
CHEAT PASS. From 3 to 6 miles below or to the eastward of Shao-
king is a fine pass, the river flowing amongst mountain ranges, which rise
to the height of 2,000 or 3,000 feet.
This pass is 3^ miles in length, and neai-ly straight, and in its
narrowest part from 200 to 300 yards wide ; the water is deep, but its
depth was not ascertained.
K.WAKTG-S.I.* A village so called stands on the north shore, mid-
way between the San-shui junction and Shao-king.
* Li, village ; Chau or Hien, district town ; Fu, department city ; King, capital city.
CHAP, n.] SHAO-KING. WU-CHU FU. 61
FIRST BAB. Between this village and the Great pass the river is
three-quarters of a mile wide, and becomes shallower. A passage was
found of only 2 fathoms close to the north shore, and it is probable there
is no better channel. Here, therefore, at 75 miles from the sea, the river
ceases to be navigable at this season for vessels drawing over 12 feet.
Below Kwang-li the river splits round a richly cultivated island. The
South channel is full of shoals ; and a long spit runs out from either end
of the island.
SHAG-KING to WU-CHXT FIT. On the 22nd February, the Watchful,
Janus, and Woodcock started for Wu-chu fu. There the river winds
through a continuously hilly country of sandstone and granite, chiefly in
northerly and westerly directions. The hills, varying from 100 to 1,500
feet in height, are in general densely wooded, and many highly cultivated.
Near Shao-kiiig, limestone hills appear in rugged and picturesque groups ;
one crops out on the river of a most picturesque form, and is called by the
Chinese Kai-yik-kwan, or the Cock's Comb, which it strongly resembles.
A group also lies 2 miles north of Shao-king, to which they give the name
of the Seven Stars, after the constellation of the Great Bear.
At 50 miles above Shao-king, and on the left or north shore of the river,
a single mass of granite (in the form of a thumb) rises perpendicularly
some 300 feet out of a range of hills of 1,500 to 1,800 feet elevation. Its
local name is Kum-kwoh-shek, but it is also called Fa-pew, or the flowery
tablet, and it is the most remarkable object in the river. After passing
this, the navigation becomes dangerous, and the river bed studded with
rocks.
The district city Wu-chu or Ng-chu is 75 miles above Shao-king. Its
latitude by observation is 23 28' N. (22 miles north of Canton), and its
longitude, approximately, 112 14' E. The breadth of the river here is
about 3 cables between the sandbanks, and nearly a mile from shore to
shore, but it is with difficulty navigable by junks higher up at this season ;
the first rapids being (by report) about 12 miles above Wu-chu.
Wu-chu fu stands at the confluence of the stream on which is Kwei-
ling, the capital of Kwang-si. This communication was open, though
the intermediate country was in the hands of the rebels. It had the
appearance, observed from the heights, of being easily navigable by gun
boats.
TIDES and CURRENT. The level of the Si kiang at this season
(February) at Wu-chu, was from 25 to 30 feet below the river banks ;
probably 25 feet below the summer level in July and August.
The velocity of the stream never exceeded 2^ or 3 knots.
62 SI KIANG OR WEST RIVER. [CIIAI>. n.
There was a rise and fall of 18 inches at spring tides. The stream
never turned, but was checked during the flood.
BOUNDARY The boundary of the provinces Quang-tung* and
KAvang-si is 4 miles below Wu-chu fu.
DIRECTIONS The Si kiang is moderately deep from Shao-king to
Wu-chu, having generally from 3 to 5 fathoms water in the channels for
nearly 60 miles above Shao-king ; in a gorge in Yuet-shing reach a depth
of 29 fathoms was obtained.
At 15 miles below Wu-chu is a 12 feet bar. After this the navigation
becomes more and more difficult as Wu-chu is approached. For the last
4 miles it is most intricate, and barely 7 feet was found between the rocky
ledges. The Woodcock grounded twice on rocks, and the Watchful on a
bank of hard sand a few miles below the city.
There are numerous villages along the river banks and a military station
at every 3 miles. The walled towns of Fong-chuen, and the walled city
of Tak-hien (of the second class), are only worthy of notice. They
stand on the left bank, the former 12 miles, the latter 55 miles, below
Wu-chu.
The longitude of Wu-chu must at present remain uncertain, as gloomy,
overcast skies prevailed throughout the cruize. The distances were deter-
mined by the mean of the runs up and down, as shown by Massey's patent
log. Some idea may be given of the rate at which these explorations
may be conducted by the following particulars : The 75 miles of river
from Shao-king to Wu-chu was accomplished in 3-^ days of 12 hours
a day ; this gives an average of 2l miles a day, or If miles an hour.
The average speed of the gun boats (40 H.P.) being about 4 knots,
92 miles of running were required to complete the 75, showing an adverse
current of 17 knots. The return passage was made in 20 hours, the log
showing 61 miles, i.e., 45 miles per day, or 3| miles per hour.
* Tung signifies East, and Si, West.
63
CHAPTER III.
EAST COAST OF CHINA HONG KONG TO AMOY.
VARIATION, from 30' East to 15' West in 1861.
TATHONG CHAWMTEL is formed between the west side of Tamtu
island and the east side of Hong Kong, and close to the latter, about 1^
miles northward of Tylong head, lie two small rocky islets : between
these islets and Tathong point is the Tathong rock, above water.
Vessels having run out from Hong Kong road through the Lyemun
pass, and wishing for anchorage, either for the night or in consequence
of bad weather, will find a good berth in the bay on the northern side of
Tamtu island in 6 fathoms ; but it must be borne in mind that the water
shoals to 2| fathoms at 3 cables' lengths from the Joss house on the north
side of the bay.*
TAMTU or Tunglung island, 820 feet above the sea and 3 miles in
circumference, is separated from the mainland by a channel called the
Fotaumun pass, which is only lj cables wide between the rocks which
lie off both points in the channel, and carries a depth of 3 fathoms. A
sunken rock lies S.E. ^ E. distant 4 cables from the north point of Tamtu j
when on it, the west end of Steep island (the first small islet to the
north-eastward) just shows clear of a remarkable headland named Yih
bluff, bearing N.N.E. E.
The south point of Tamtu forms a low peninsula, and to the southward
of its west point there is a flat islet or rock lying a cable's length from the
shore, with reefs inside it. Upon the first point outside the Fotaumun
pass stands a ruined fort.
STEEP and TRIO ISLETS. Steep islet is 1 miles to the northward
of the eastern entrance of the Fotaumun pass, and 4 cables from the
shore ; at 1^ miles farther north lie the Trio islets. There is an inden-
tation in the coast, with 8 fathoms water, between Trio and Steep, but it
is exposed to easterly winds and swell.
* See Charts : Hong Kong, No. 1,466, scale m = 2 inches; Sheet 2, East Coast of
China, No. 1,962, scale d = 14i inches ; and Mirs Bay, No. 1,964, scale m = O-8 of an
inch.
64 HONG KONG TO AMOY. [CHAP. m.
GROUP lies 3 miles eastward of the Fotaumun pass ; the
two largest islets bear North and South of each other, and the channel
between them is 2 cables wide. The southern face of the South Ninepin
is a precipitous cliff, 330 feet high ; off its south-west side there is a
smaller islet, and towards its northern point the land becomes lower, with
a peaked rock in the offing. The surface of the North Ninepin is nearly
of the same elevation, with the exception of a cleft near its northern end ;
an islet lies off its south-west extreme.
Ninepin Rock, or East Ninepin, 222 feet high, lies nearly a mile east-
ward of the North Ninepin, and assumes the appearance that its name
indicates only when seen in a N.W. or S.E. direction ; otherwise the
name is liable to mislead. Close to its north-west side is a smaller islet,
and there are detached rocks upon its north-east and west sides.
One-foot Sock, lying S. f W., not quite 7 cables from the Ninepin, has
only a foot over it at low water. When on this rock the south end
of the South Ninepin bears W. ^ S., and is in line with the shoulder of
the hill northward of the highest part of Tamtu ; and the right extreme
of the rock on the north side of the North Ninepin is in line with the
summit of Shelter island in Shelter bay, N.W. ^ W. The south end
of the South Ninepin on with Fotaumun pass, W. | N., will lead south
of it.
North Rock, lying N.W. N. distant 9 cables from the Ninepin, is
nearly awash ; a reef, which breaks at low water, lies a short cable's
length to the south-east of it.
TIDES. At the Ninepin group it is high water, full and change, at
lOh. Om., and the rise is 5 feet. The channel between the group and
Steep islet is nearly 2 miles wide, and carries a depth of 14 to 16
fathoms ; at full and change in May 1845, the flood ran to the S.S.E.,
and the ebb to the S.S.W., the former at the rate of P 3 of a knot and the
latter half a knot.
PORT SHELTER. To the northward of the Niuepin group the main-
land forms a deep bay, containing Port Shelter and Rocky harbour. Port
Shelter, the western of the two, runs back to the northward 5\ miles,
and its head is separated from the south-west portion of Mirs bay by an
isthmus 1^ miles wide, overlooked by the Hunchback hills, 2,315 feet
above the sea, which with Sharp peak, 1,540 feet high, on the west side
of the entrance to Mirs bay, form conspicuous marks by which this portion
of the coast may be recognized.
When steering for Port Shelter, pass eastward of Trio and Table islets
on account of some rocks which extend 3 cables from the point to the
westward of them. Nearly a mile northward of Table islet is the southern
CHAP, in.] NINEPIN GROUP. PORT SHELTER. ROCKY HARBOUR. 65
point of Jin island, with a peaked rock lying 2 cables to the southward of
it ; and E. | N. rather more than a cable's length from the peaked rock,
there is a rock awash at high water.
Shelter island, 1^ miles to the north-west of Table islet, should like-
wise be left to the westward when steering for Port Shelter, as the
ground is foul between it and the main. Good anchorage will be found
on the north-west side of Shelter island, in 8 fathoms, but give the north
point of the island a berth of a cable's length, and avoid the Nine-feet
patch, which lies 6 cables to the northward in the centre of the bay ;
the marks for which are : Table island on with the north end of
North Ninepin, bearing S.E. f S. ; the opening between Keui and Jin
islands nearly East ; and .Shelter island S. by W. Southerly, one cable's
length from the west point of Shelter island, is a rock awash at low water;
and there is a patch of 2| fathoms lying half a mile to the westward
of it.
Sharp island lies North 1^- miles from Shelter, with fair anchorage on
its eastern side, but exposed to southerly winds ; and from which, passing
north of Keui island, there is a junk or boat passage leading into Rocky
harbour.
ROCKY HARBOUR is formed by Keui and Jin islands on the west, and
by High, Basalt, and Bluff islands to the east and south-east. The
southern entrance between Bluff and Jin islands is a mile wide ; the rock
awash at high water off the latter, has been mentioned above. On the east
side of Jin, at 2 cables from the shore, is Bay islet, which is low and flat.
Three-feet Patch. Midway between Bay islet and the north end of
Bluff island lies a rocky patch with only 3 feet on it, from which the
west point of Bluff island is in one with the summit of North Ninepin,
S. 5 E., and the southern summit of Bay islet bears W.N. W. The North
Ninepin and Bluff islands touching, leads westward of it ; and the west
end of the rock lying off the south-west end of North Niuepin, in one
with the west point of Bluff island, leads eastward ; also, a vessel will be
northward of it when the Pyramid rock opens clear of the north-east
extreme of Bluff island, S.E. by E. f E.
Three-fathoms Patch lies 6 cables to the northward of the Three-feet
patch, Avith the summit of Bay islet bearing W.S.W., Pyramid rock
S.E. S., and Green islet, the small islet on the eastern shore, E. f N.,
and distant 3 cables' lengths.
ANCHORAGE will be found in the North-east monsoon on the eastern
side of Rocky harbour, in the neighbourhood of a small cove northward
of Green islet, where there is a mandarin station and a village. Inside
the cove the depth is 6 fathoms, but the space is confined, owing to
[C.] E
66 HONG KONG TO AMOY. [CHAP. in.
sunken rocks. In the South-west monsoon vessels will be better sheltered
by anchoring to the North-west of Bay islet.
BASALT ISLAND lies 4 cables to the south-east of Bluff island, and
the depth between them is 5 fathoms at low water. The former is 8
cables long, north and south, and rises to the height of 572 feet above the
sea ; the southern faces of both it and Bluff island are very precipitous.
ISLAND lies half a mile to the northward of Basalt island.
The channel between them is 4 cables wide, but it should not be used
without a leading wind or in a handy vessel, as the chow-chow water,* or
whirling eddies, might lead them into difficulty. It is also obstructed by
islets and a rock awash at high water, and to the eastward of the Three-
feet patch at the entrance of Rocky harbour, the ground is foul with some
casts of 3 fathoms.
HIGH ISLAND, 7 miles in circumference and 910 feet above the sea,
is separated from Town island by a channel which carries a depth of 3^
fathoms, but in some places it is barely a cable wide. At 1^ cables east-
ward of the latter is Hole island, so called from its being perforated. To
the northward of these islands there are two low islets. The channel
between High island and the main has not more than a foot in some places
at low water.
AT. Conic isle lies N.N.E. 2| miles from Hole island, at not
quite a cable's length from the shore, and immediately westward of it
is a small bay 3^- cables wide and three-quarters of a mile deep, which
might be used in the North-east monsoon. Fung bay, the next inlet to
the northward, is 1| miles wide, and has two islets and a rock in the
middle of it ; but it is too much exposed to the eastward to be of any
use to the navigator. Sharp peak, noticed in page 64, overlooks this bay,
and bears from the Ninepin N. ^ E., nearly 10 miles.
IVTIRS BAT is a deep inlet, 15 miles to the north-east of Hong Kong,
and its entrance, between Fung head and Mirs point, is 5^ miles wide ;
its extent northerly is 11 miles, and in an east and west direction 18
miles. Gau-tau, a rocky islet 90 feet high, lies about 2 miles within
the entrance, and S.W. by W. about half a mile from it is a rocky
ledge, part of which is always uncovered. South Gau island, 96 feet
* Chow-chow water is a term applied to those ripplings occasioned by the meeting of
adverse currents, the agitation of which js frequently so violent as to render a vessel
unmanageable when within their influence.
CHAP, in.] MIRS BAY. 67
high, is l miles to the S.W. by W. of this ledge, and half a mile off
shore.
The hills near Mirs point rise to the height of 1,200 feet, and just off
its southern extremity lies a small islet, named Griffin rock, and east of it
some rocks, at a cable's length from the beach. The first point to the
westward of the islet is perforated.
GRASS ISLAND. The point 1^ miles N. by "W. of Fung head has two
islets off it, and from thence the western coast of Mirs bay trends sud-
denly to the westward, then northerly 1^ miles, where there is an opening
3 cables wide leading into Long harbour, bearing West from Gau-tau ; the
navigable channel however has only 2 fathoms water in it, and is barely a
cable wide, with shoal water extending from both shores.
On the north side of the opening lies Grass island, which is 1^ miles
long, north and south, three-quarters of a mile wide, and 420 feet high ;
and at 3^ cables eastward of this island is a large black rock, named
North Gau, with a reef, awash at high water, lying N.W. N. 4 cables
from it.
PORT ISLAND, nearly 2 miles in circumference and 420 feet high, lies
nearly 6 cables northward of Grass island, and its north-east point, which
is narrow, projects 3 cables from the body of the island.
Water. There is a convenient watering-place on the northern side of
Port island.
HARBOUR, the entrance to which lies a mile S.S.W. of Port
island, is 3^ miles deep, and at its entrance is 6 cables wide. Both shores
are steep-to, with the exception of the south-west end of Grass island,
where there is a cove with a rock off its north point ; and at about a
cable's length to the northward of this rock and half a cable from the shore
is a rocky patch of 3 fathoms ; some rocks also, which show at low tide,
extend nearly a cable's length from high water mark at the south-west
end of the island. To the southward of Grass island, the harbour widens
to l miles, and then gradually decreases towards its southern extremity,
where it is separated into two coves ; the depth is 4 fathoms at a mile
from the head of the harbour.
JONES COVE, the next inlet westward of Long harbour, is a mile deep
N.N.E. and S.S.W., and 3 cables wide ; but it, as well as Long harbour,
is open to a considerable swell from the N.N.E.
On the western side of the cove there are three islets, and at 2 cables
to the northward of the largest, Flat islet, are two rocks, awash at high
E 2
68 HONG KONG TO AMOY. [CHAP. m.
*
water, from which the summit of Port island bears N.E. | E., and the
north point of Grass island E. N.
TOX.O CHAXTNEXi, leading into Tolo harbour, is the next deep inlet
westward of Long harbour, on the western shore of Mirs bay. The en-
trance, between Port island and Bluff head, is nearly 1^ miles wide, and
from thence the channel trends S.W. by W. 7 miles to White head, form-
ing a Sound not less than 7 cables wide, with steep shores, and carrying a
depth varying from 6 to 14 fathoms. There is a small cove on the northern
shore of the channel, at 2 miles within Bluff head.
Within the channel at 3 miles from Bluff head is Knob reef, and a flat
reef at 2 cables' lengths farther to the S.W. ; and 2^ miles farther lies
Bush reef, north of which, 3^ cables, is Harbour island. The main land
to the southward is nearly a mile distant from this latter reef, but the
3-fathoms' line extends 4 cables from the shore on this side of the channel.
Although there is a navigable channel on either side of these reefs, the
one northward of them is preferred, being the wider, and having 7 to
10 fathoms water. Abreast of Knob reef, on the northern shore, there is
a large cove.
Tide Cove. At White head (which is a peninsula with the Hunchback
hills, 2,315 feet high, with very precipitous face, rising immediately behind
it), the Tolo channel separates into three arms, the south-western of
which, named Tide cove, extends 3^ miles beyond it, and the water shoals
gradually from 5 fathoms to the bottom of the cove, from whence there is
a footpath to Kowloon village in Hong Kong harbour, the distance across
from water to water being 2 miles, and the greatest elevation to sur-
mount 920 feet. In the middle of the cove, at 2 miles from White Head,
is a reef which covers at high water, and from which a remarkable water-
fall on the western shore bears S.W. by W. ^ W.
Tolo Harbour, the north-west arm, also extends 3^ miles from White
head, and has in its entrance Centre isle, and to the northward some
smaller islets, with anchorage between them and the main.
Plover Cove, the north-east arm, would in all probability be found the
most eligible place to ride out a Typhoon ; it runs back 2^ miles to the
eastward beyond Harbour island, and carries a depth of 6 to 4 fathoms.
ROUND, CROOXEX>, CRESCENT, and DOUBLE ISLANDS. N. W.b.N.
2f miles from Port island, is Round islet, the easternmost of an extensive
group lying in the north-west part of Mirs bay ; the largest of the group
are Double, Crescent, and Crooked islands. Double island, the southern-
most, lies N.W. 6 cables trom Bluff head, and the channel which separates
CHAP, m.] MIRS BAY. 69
its south-west point from the main is only large enough for boats. The
passage between it and Crescent island is a cable wide, with 4 to 7 fathoms
in it ; and between Crescent and Crooked islands, the narrowest part of
the channel is 2 cables wide, with a depth of 10 and 12 fathoms.
The east end of Crooked island is a remarkable peaked head, and
between it and the mainland, to the northward, the depths are 9 to 4
fathoms, muddy bottom. A good harbour, Crooked Harbour, will be found
on the west side of Crooked island ; and a very secure basin, named Double
Haven, is formed to the southward, by Crescent and Double island, the
entrance into which on the north side is 3 cables wide : within it the
depth is 7 fathoms. On the north-west side of Crooked island is a large
village.
i
PENG-CHATT ISLAND, 3 miles in circumference and 148 feet high,
is in the north-east corner of Mirs bay, and bears N. ^ E. 4^ miles from
Gau-tau. The geological formation of this island is totally different
from the adjacent land, being alluvial, shale stones forming its beaches.
The distance between it and the main land to the eastward is rather more
than a mile, forming a convenient harbour sheltered from all winds-
E.N.E. from this island is the remarkable peak of East Cone, 750 feet
high, overlooking Typung bay, the distance across being 1 miles, and
the land but little elevated. The village of Namoh stands on the isthmus;
and in the bay to the south-west of it there is a peaked rock and a sunken,
reef.
ANCHORAGE. The water gradually shoals to the westward of Crooked
island, and this part of Mirs bay affords good anchorage. The northern
portion of the shores of the bay are steep-to. There is anchorage in
the North-east monsoon all along the eastern shore of the bay to the
southward of Peng-chau ; but the number of fishing platforms on stakes
in 8 and 9 fathoms water render the navigation awkward in the dai'k.
There is anchorage in south-west winds to the westward of the South
Gau, in 8 or 9 fathoms.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, in Tide cove, on the western
shore of Mirs bay, at lOh. Om., and springs rise about 6^ feet ; but during
the neaps the water remains nearly at the same level.
Off Mirs point in April, 2 days after the change of the moon, the ebb
made to the E. b. X., the greatest velocity being 0-3 of a knot per hour.
With the flood, there is a great indraft into Mirs bay and Rocky harbour,
which must be guarded against in shaping a course from Tuni-ang island
to pass outside the Ninepin.
On full and change in May, the flood inside the Ninepin rock ran to
the S.E., and the ebbb to the S.W., the former at the rate of 0*3 of a knot,
70 HONG KONG TO AMOY. [CHAP. in.
the latter half a knot per hour. In March, the moon being 19 days old,
the ebb ran to the S.W. 2 knots, 9 miles in the whole tide.
The COAST from Mirs point trends N.E. b. E. 8 miles to Teyih point,
and between the points there are two sandy bays, off the westernmost of
which, and at 4 cables from the shore, lies Coast islet, having 4 fathoms
inside it.
DIRECTIONS. As the ebb stream runs to the southward along the
western shore at the entrance of Mirs bay, a vessel working to windward
with a S.W. wind will get to the westward speedily by keeping near it,
passing between the Ninepin group and Tamtu ; but as soon as the Lema
channel opens out she will meet with a strong set to the eastward.
During the month of August and part of September, if a vessel is
to eastward of the Lema islands, she will find it difficult to proceed
along shore to the westward if the wind is from that quarter ; she ought
therefore either to stand off to the southward for two or three days, if
near the full and change of the moon, when bad weather may be appre-
hended, or anchor in Mirs or Harlem bay for an easterly wind, which in
these months usually happens every few days, close in with the coast.
TUWI-ABTG GROUP, lying 6 miles eastward of Mirs point, fronting
the peninsula which separates Mirs and Bias bays, consists of eight
islets, including Single island and Acong rock. The largest islet, the
northernmost, is 5 miles in circumference, and the summit rises like a
cone to the height of 960 feet ; off its western end are two islets ; the
nearest, Net island, is sugar-loaf shaped, and at low tide there is but a
foot water between it and Tuni-ang.
Peak rock, lying a quarter of a mile westward of Net island, with
a depth of 4 and 5 fathoms between, appears like two islets with a shingle
beach connecting them. N. W. W., 4 cables from Peak rock, lies a ledge
of rocks, the northern edge of which is always visible ; and between them
is a reef which breaks at low water.
Immediately to the southward of Tuni-ang island lie three islets, called
by the Chinese Samun (or three passages), which form a harbour sheltered
from all winds, except those between W. N. W., round westerly, and
S.W. b. S. The southern islet is 3 miles in circumference, and distant
1^- miles from Tuni-ang ; the channel between it and Cone island to the
northward is not quite 2 cables wide, with a depth in it of 9 and 10
fathoms. The passage between Cone and Tuni-ang is the same breadth,
but crooked, and carries only 2^ fathoms at low water. The channel
between Samun and Single island is 1| miles wide j the latter island is
even-topped, and 200 feet high .
CHAP, m.] TUNI-ANG GROUP. BIAS BAY. 7 1
The Acong is a remarkable pyramid rock lying 6 cables to the N.E.
of Single island, with a depth of 15 fathoms between them. There is a
rock with 16 feet upon it at low water, lying N.N.E. f E. about a mile
from Acong, on which bearing it is on with the south-east point of
Single island. When on this rock, which is so steep all around that there
was great difficulty in finding it, Cone island bore N.W. by W. f W., and
was in one with a remarkable gap in Tuni-ang.
ANCHORAGE In the North-east monsoon the trading junks anchor in
9 fathoms to the southward of Net island, and abreast a fort on Tuni-
ang ; but the ground is foul within 2 cables' lengths of the fort point. The
best anchorage is off the south-west point of Cone island in 7 and 8
fathoms water. During the prevalence of south-westerly winds there is
anchorage, in 9 and 10 fathoms, abreast a bay on the north-east side of
Tuni-ang.
MIDDLE ROCKS. N.E. ^ E. from the summit of Tuni-ang lie the
Middle rocks, which are just awash at high water. From them Acong
rock bears S. f W. ; Bate island, off the east point of Bias bay, N.N.E. ;
and Lokaup island N.W. b. N. 4 miles. At 3 cables to the south-west of
these rocks is a reef which breaks only at low water ; the marks for it
are, the east end of Cake islet (on the east side of Lokaup) in line with
the Pillars, bearing N. b. W. | W.
The channel between Tuui-ang island and Teyih point, the west point
of Bias bay, is 1^ miles wide ; both shores are steep-to, with the excep-
tion of the reef already mentioned, lying off Peak rock near the north-
west point of Tuni-ang, and a rocky ledge extending south-westerly from
the first point east of a remarkable white rock on the north shore. The
hills on this side attain an elevation of 2,600 and 2,800 feet.
BIAS BAT is a capacious and deep inlet, similar to Mirs bay. It has
a chain of islands fronting its western shore, which is indented by two
large bays, at the head of the principal of which is Typung harbour.
Bias point, the eastern point of entrance, is fronted by rocks to the
extent of nearly a mile. The channel between them and the land is
unsafe, but the passage between these rocks and the rock lying S.E. of
Bate island may be used, being 8 cables wide, with a depth inside of 4^
and 5 fathoms.
Bate island is 8 cables long, north and south, and half a mile wide, and
besides the rock which lies 3 cables south-east of it, there is another rock,
awash at high water, lying N.N.E. 6 cables from its north end, and from
which the south point of Lokaup island bears S.W. by W. ^ W., and the
rock south-east of Bate island S. by E.
72 HONG KONG TO AMOY. [CHAP.III.
XIOXAUP ISLAND, off the south end of -which there are some pyramidal
rocks, bears N. b E. 6 miles from Tuni-ang, and the channel between it
and the west point of Bias bay is .3 miles wide, with a depth of 9 fathoms.
The island is about 2 miles long, and nearly separated in two places ; the
highest part, 330 feet above the sea, being near the south end. There is
anchorage on either side of it, according to the prevailing winds. There
are six islets around this island, three on the west, two on the north, and
one on the east side. The north islet of the group, named the Pillars, is
remarkable from its two square pillars ; there is a reef off the west end of
the small island south of the Pillars.
TYPUWG HARBOUR, so named from the walled town of Typung on
its northern shore, is on the west side of Bias bay, and although con-
tracted is capable of affording good shelter for [moderate-sized vessels,
except with easterly winds, when the anchorage under Lokaup island
should be preferred. The entrance is 6 miles \V. ^ S. from the north end
of Lokaup, and on the northern side there is a smooth conical hill, off
which a reef commences, extending half a mile from the shore ; the
southern side, which is steep-to, must therefore be kept aboard. Vessels
drawing more than 15 feet should not proceed farther westerly than the
third point on the south side, as the bottom of the bay is shoal.
GROUP. About a mile northward of the Pillars is Middle
group, consisting of six islets. Green island, 254 feet high, the southern-
most, has an islet off its west end ; and at three-quarters of a mile to
the northward is Reef islet, to the S.E. of which is a reef that breaks at
low water ; the centre of this reef bears N. by E. E. from Green
island, and S.S.E. f E. from the summit of Reef islet. There is also
another rock awash at low water, lying North 3 cables from reef islet ;
when on it, summit of Red islet bears E. S. There is a third rock,
N. i W. 1 miles from Reef islet, and N. W. N. from Red islet.
HARBOUR GROUP, consisting of nine islets, lies in the middle of Bias
bay, not quite a mile to the northward of Middle group. The southernmost
are two small islets named the Twins, to the N.E. of which, at 2 cables'
lengths, is Shoal island, having rocky ground extending north-westerly
2 cables from it, on some parts of which there are only 3 feet water. Shoal
island is separated from Narrow island by a channel 3^ cables wide ;
should it be used, the shore of the latter must be kept aboard to avoid
the shoal just mentioned. Narrow island is three-quarters of a mile long,
north and south, and 2 cables wide. Round island lies rather more than
2 cables to the northward of Narrow island, with a depth of 5 and 6
fathoms between them ; to the northward of it at 2 cables lies a flat
CHAP, m.] BIAS BAY. 73
rock nearly awasli. N. by W. 6 cables from Eound island is the North
Cone, a conical rock surrounded by reefs ; vessels wishing to anchor to
the westward of Narrow island will find this the best channel to enter by.
N.N.W. 2^ miles from Narrow island is Low island.
At a quarter of a mile to the westward of the Twins is Tree-a-top islet,
and westward of it, at half a mile, is a Sugar Loaf shaped island, having
between them a good channel to enter inside the group. To the westward
of Sugar Loaf is Big island, off the north face of which is a small islet,
and further north a flat rock, with a reef, which shows only at low water ;
when upon this reef the highest part of Narrow island bears S.E. by E.,
and Nobby reef N.E. by E. To the N. W. of Big island is Sand patch,
a low rock surrounded by sand ; between it and the island there are
3^ fathoms water. On the south side of Big island there is also a rock
awash at high water.
The passage to the westward, between Big island and the main is three-
quarters of a mile wide, but a reef lies nearly in mid-channel and only
shows at half tide ; it bears W. by S. S. from Sugar Loaf, and N.W. by N.
from Green island.
BAY, the next inlet northward of Typung harbour on the
west side of Bias bay, runs back westerly 6 miles from Big island, and
carries a general depth of about 3 fathoms.
TRIPLE ISLAND. From Bias point the eastern coast of Bias bay
trends northerly 9^ miles ; the first islet on this shore is Triple, lying
2 miles northward of Bate island.
There is anchorage in the North-east monsoon between Bate and Triple
islands. The channel between Triple and the main is 6 cables wide, with
a depth of 3 fathoms ; at a cable's length from the eastern shore of the
island is a small rock which is never covered.
TSANG-CHAU ISLAND is a low flat islet with a smaller one S.E. of
it, lying 6^ miles northward of Triple island. The passage between it
and the main land is a mile wide, with a depth of 2 fathoms ; but rocks
extend from the shores on each side of the channel.
BAXtBOTTO. To the northward of Tsang-chau the
eastern coast of Bias bay bends round to the eastward, forming the har-
bour of Fan-lo-kong, the entrance to which is 1^ miles wide, with a depth
in mid-channel of 4 fathoms. At 4 miles to the north -east of Tsang-chau
the soundings decrease to 3 fathoms, and shoal water extends 2 miles
farther to the head of the harbour. The village of Fan-lo-kong is on the
74 HONG KONG TO AMOY. [CHAP. HI.
northern shore. This will probably be found the best anchorage in Bias
bay in a Typhoon.
PAGODA ISLAND bears from Tsang-chau N.W. by W. f W. 4 miles,
the soundings varying from 4^ to 2^ fathoms between them ; the water
shoals towards Pagoda, which lies 3 cables from the northern shore of
Bias bay, with a depth of only 9 feet inside of it ; to the W.S.W. of the
island are some rocks.
ISLAND, 480 feet high, and 2f miles in circumference,
bears S.E. by E. E. 7^ miles from Bate island, and a vessel will find
shelter from a S.W. wind on its northern side. On its western side there
is a small islet separated from it by a channel a cable wide, and carrying
9 feet water. Tsincoe island, 167 feet high, lies 6 cables to the northward
of Mendoza, the depth between them being 1 1 fathoms ; near its centre
there is a remarkable cleft.
FOKAZ POINT, bearing N.E. by E. 3f miles from Mendoza, is the
south extremity of a high promontory, connected to the main by a low
sandy isthmus ; the land near the point is high, and has the appearance of
an island when viewed from eastward or westward. On the summit of the
Fokai hills is an artificial mound 670 feet above the sea, and on the hill
over the south-west point stands a large fort. On the east side of the
isthmus lie three rocky islets ; and E. by N. 8 cables from the northern-
most islet, is a reef showing at low water, from which the east extreme
of Fokai point bears S. by W. W., and the Pauk Piah rock E.S.E.
HARLEIVI BAT, formed to the westward of the Fokai promontory
and northward of Mendoza island, affords secure anchorage in the North-
east monsoon ; but it cannot be considered safe during a Typhoon, when
the winds are liable to shift suddenly to different points of the compass.
A good berth will be found to the northward of Hebe islet in any conve-
nient depth of water. This islet is flat-topped, and 70 feet high, and a
ledge of rocks, which covers at high water, extends 3 cables north-east-
ward of it.*
The distance between Mendoza and the west extreme of Fokai point is
2| miles, and between the two, at 6 cables from the latter, and 10 or 12
feet above the sea, is Middle rock, which may be passed on either side.
On the western foot of the Fokai hills stands a fort, and a tall chimney
on the hill over it : to the northward of the fort is a creek, which extends
northerly along the sandy isthmus, and into which junks run at high
* See Plan of Harlem Bay, scale, m = half an inch, surveyed by Lieut. D. Boss, I.N.,
1812.
CHAP, in.] HARLEM BAY. SAM-CHAU INLET, 75
water. S.W. by W. 3 cables from Hebe islet is a rocky patch, of 3^
fathoms water, bearing North from Middle rock, and N.W. ^ N. from the
west extreme of Fokai point.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, at Tuni-ang island at
8h. Om. ; at Tsang-chau island in Bias bay at 8h. 30m. ; and at Hebe
islet in Harlem bay (two days before full moon) at lOh. Om. In the month
of April the current in this neighbourhood set constantly to the westward,
increasing its velocity upon the flood, but its rate did not exceed a knot.
DIRECTIONS. When bound to Bias bay from the eastward, after
passing about a mile westward of Mendoza island, steer N.W. by W.
for the opening between Lokaup and Bate islands, carrying a depth of
13 to 10 fathoms over muddy bottom. If there is a turning wind, when
standing westward do not bring Bate island to the eastward of N. E.,
nor Acong rock to the southward of S. by W. ^ W., until Tsincoe island
bears to the southward of East, to avoid the Middle rocks. From thence
either proceed up the bay to an anchorage in 5 fathoms water, about
1^ miles from the eastern shore, 3 miles northward of Triple island, or
to the southward of Lokaup to an anchorage in the bay or in the harbour
of Typung. There are several populous villages OH. the eastern shore
where no doubt refreshments could be obtained.
If bound to Harlem bay, round Fokai point in 13 fathoms about half
a mile off, and either haul up between the shore and the Middle rock, or
pass between the rock and Tsincoe island. If the wind be easterly, it
will perhaps be better for a vessel of moderate draught to adopt the
former channel, as she will fetch the anchorage without tacking, taking
care, however, to avoid the 3^ fathoms patch to the south-west of Hebe
islet ; but a large ship should pass westward of the Middle rock, although
she should have to tack, as she will then be far enough from the high
land to avoid the variable flaws of wind, and the disagreeable consequences
that might arise from being baffled in a narrow channel.
SAM-CHAU INLET. From Fokai point the coast trends N.E. by N.
12 miles to Ross head, and at the distance of 9 miles is Coast islet, lying
4 cables from the shore. Shoal water, over rocky bottom, extends
6 cables to the southward of this islet, and here, close to a fla* rocky
head, there is an opening a cable wide into the extensive inlet of Sam-
chau, the channel, carrying 5 and 6 fathoms, being close to a narrow cliff
on. the southern shore ; but in strong easterly winds the sea breaks across
it. The entrance bears W. by N. N. from Si-ting islet, and E. ^ N.
from Harlem peak, which, rising 2,070 feet above the sea, forms a con-
spicuous landmark. S.S.W. W. nearly 2^ miles from Coast islet lies a
76 HONG KONG TO AMOY. [CHAP. in.
sunken rock, from which Si-ting bears East 6 miles, and Harlem peak
N.W. i W.
Commander P. Cmcoft, of H.M.S. Reynard, who visited this inlet in
chase of pirates, says, " The mouth of the inlet is very little wider than
the breadth of a ship ; there is also an inner bar with an equally narrow
passage ; and across both these bars the tide runs with a velocity of
5 knots. The depth in the channel varies from 6 to 8 fathoms, and
deepens to 10 fathoms above the upper bar, where there is ample room
for a vessel to swing ; but such is the intricacy of the navigation that a
personal examination should be made, and the state of the tide carefully
ascertained, before attempting the entrance."
PEDKO BIANCO ROCK, in lat. 22 18^' N., long. 115 7' E., bears
S. by E. | E. from Pauk Piah rock ; S.S.W. ^ W. from Ty-sami mound ;
E. ^ N. 42 miles from the south extreme of the South Ninepin ;
S.E. I E. 19^ miles from Mendoza island ; and S.W. by W. W. 83 miles
from Flat reef, Breaker point. When bearing North it appears as two
rocks ; the summit is of a white colour. It is bold to approach, having
20 fathoms close to the southward, and 18 fathoms to the northward,
decreasing gradually to 13 fathoms in the neighbourhood of the Pauk
Piah.
PAUK PIAH and WHALE ROCKS. The Pauk Piah is a flat rock,
4 feet above high water, from which the summit of the Fokai hills bears
W. N. 7 miles.
S. by W. 1\ miles from the Pauk Piah lie the two Whale rocks, upon
which the sea sometimes breaks. They rise abruptly from the depth of
12 fathoms, and when on them, the west extreme of Fokai point is on
with the summit of Bate island, and bears W. by N. N., the summit
of Fokai N.W. by W. \ W. 7 miles, and the summit of Mendoza West a
little northerly.
TUNG -TING and SI-TING are two rocky islets about 50 feet above
the sea, lying S.E. 1 S. and N.W. \ N. from each other, distant l^- miles
apart ; there are sunken and detached rocks lying around them both, and
the depth of water in their vicinity is 9 fathoms. From Si-ting the
summit of Fokai point bears S.W. by W. f W. 11 miles, and the Pauk
Piah S.S.W. \ W. 6f miles.
N.W. by W. 1^ miles from Si-ting lies a rocky patch upon which the
sea sometimes breaks. Hat islet bears from it |N.E. ^ E., and Harlem
peak W. N. ; Mace point, open North of Hat islet, bearing about
N.E. | E., will lead to the northward. There is also the Single rock
which breaks only at low water or when there is a heavy sea, and from
CH. m.] PEDRO BLANCO ROCK. HONG HAI BAY. INSIDE ISLAND. 77
which Si-ting bears S.W. by W. f W.; Tung-ting S.W. by S.; Hat islet
N. by E., and Harlem peak W. \ N.
HONG-HAI BAT, about 15 miles to the north-east of Fokai point, is
extensive, but in the upper part the water shoals to 3 and 4 fathoms, and
it is open to S.W. and South winds. There are several islands in the bay,
the largest of which, Hong-hai, is in the middle of it.
Vessels are recommended not to pass to the westward of Tung-ting
and Si-tung, nor into the north-west part of Hong-hai bay, as they will
experience a heavier sea there than outside.
HONG-HAI ISLAND, bearing N.E. ^ E. 8 miles from Si-ting, is half
a mile long, east and west. 3 cables wide, and will afford shelter on its
northern side from southerly winds. S. by E. f E. from its summit, which
is 240 feet high, there are two rocks, visible at low water ; they lie
3 cables from the shore with the south-west point of Hong-hai bearing
N.W. by W. ^ W., and in line with the south end of Inside island, and
the east point of Hong-hai N. by W. westerly, and in line with the highest
part of Mace point.
HAT ISLET is a peaked rock lying 2f miles westward of Hong-hai.
It is called by the Chinese Ke-sin-she (a fowl's heart), which it more
resembles than a hat ; there are detached rocks about it.
SHOAL BAT is formed at the head of Hong-hai bay, 3 miles N.N.E. of
Hong-haT island. Its entrance is 2 miles wide, and, within the heads, the
depth is less than 3 fathoms. There is an inlet, with only 6 feet over the
bar at low water, which communicates in its north-east part with Hie-che-
chin bay : by report it is navigable for small boats only.
At three -quarters of a mile eastward of Club point, the east point
of Shoal bay, there is a rocky ledge, part of which is always above
water.
INSIDE ISLAND, 5 miles to the N.W. of Hong-hai', is 460 feet high,
a mile long north and south, and but little more than a cable wide.
At 3 cables from its south-west end are some detached rocks ; and in
the bays east and west of it no greater depth than 2^ fathoms will be
found at low tide. There is usually a long ground swell here, rendering
it advisable for vessels not to stand farther into the bay than Hong-hai
island.
West, 3 miles from Inside island, is the embouchure of a large stream,
but with only 6 feet over the bar at low water.
78 HONG KONG TO AMOY. [CHAP. m.
TY-SAMI INLET, the entrance to which bears E. f N. 9 miles from
Hong-ha'i island, has a channel leading into it half a mile -wide, and car-
rying 2 fathoms at low water. The northern shore of the entrance is
shoal-to, and rather more than half a mile from the beach are some rocks,
which show at low tide, and from which Ty-sami mound bears S.S.E., and
the low conical hill at the back of the town E. by N. ^ N.*
The southern edge of the channel is bordered by a sandbank, which
commences under Ty-sami mound, and extends 1 miles from the shore,
until its north end bears West from Entrance head, where it shoals sud-
denly, and has but 3 feet on its edge. The north end of the sandy spit
under Entrance hill (the hill on the south side of the entrance), in line
with the conical hill at the back of the town bearing E. f N., will lead
into the inlet on the south side of the channel. Ty-sami mound is an
artificial cone on the highest part of the hills over the south-east point of
Hong-ha'i bay ; its elevation is 970 feet above the sea.
TIDES. In Hong-ha'i bay it is high water, full and change, at lOh. Om.
and the rise is 6^ feet.
GOAT ISLAND lying S.E. 3 miles from Tsiech point, the eastern
o'lter entrance-point of Hong-ha'i bay, is the southernmost and largest
of a numerous group, amongst which there are no navigable channels.
S.W. ^ W. from its summit, and S.S.E. ^ E. from Ty-sami mound, lies a
dangerous rock, which shows only when the tide is low and the wind high.
At rather more than a mile inland from the beach to the northward of Goat
island, is the walled town of Tsieching.
ANCHORAGE. There is good anchorage in the N.E. monsoon on the
north-west side of Goat island, which, with the group of islets to the
northward of it, shelters well from the heavy sea. This roadstead is much
used by the opium vessels, which approach as close to the shelving beach
as the depth of water will allow.
REEF ISLANDS lie S.E. by E. 3 miles from Goat island; and E. N.
1^ miles from the latter, and N.W. ^ W. 2 miles from the north end of
the former, there is a rock on which the sea breaks at low water. The
southern island of the group is the largest, and reefs extend a cable's
length in a southerly direction from its east end.
Vessels may pass between the Reef islands and some rocks awash, lying
1 1 miles to the northward, the depth being 7 and 8 fathoms ; but it must
be borne in mind that the shoal water extends rather more than 2 cables
* See Plan of Ty-sami Inlet enlarged, scale 1 inch to a mile, on Sheet 2, East Coast
of China.
CHAP, in.] TY-SAMI INLET. HIE-CHE-CHIN BAY. 79
to the northward of the islands ; the north end of the danger bearing
W. ^ S. from Chelang point. Vessels should not pass between the rocks
awash and the coast.
CHELANG POINT, bearing E. by N. % N. 5 miles from the Reef
islands, is very remarkable, of moderate height, composed of red sand,
with many ragged rocks scattered over it. The point has two islets and
a reef off it, and the depth is 13 fathoms within a mile of the outer islet,
which is 80 feet high.
There is a fort on the western extremity of this headland, and to the
northward of the fort a small bay, which will afford shelter in the
North-east monsoon ; but a sunken rock, having only a foot water
over it, lies N.W. by W. 5^- cables from the fort, and from it the
summit of Chelang point bears S.E. f E., and is in line with the southern
rock off the fort point, and Flat rock bears S.W. W. Flat rock lies
W. by N. If miles from Chelang point, and there is a small sunken rock
lying N.W. from it, and West from the fort.
XIW-YIT or Kemsue is a rocky islet, half a mile long, in a N.E. and
S.W. direction, lying N.E. ^ N. 3f miles from Chelang point, and under
its highest or north-east part there is a high rock. Its shores are bold-to,
but the islet is too small to afford shelter. The channel between it and
Che-chin point is ! miles wide, and carries a depth of 7 and 8 fathoms ;
but off the point is a large white rock surrounded by reefs.
HIE-CHE CHIN BAY, formed between Paukshao point on the west,
and by Tongmi point on the east, carries a depth of 7 to 5j fathoms at the
entrance, and 3 or 3^ fathoms within a mile of its head, over soft muddy
bottom. It will afford shelter from westerly and northerly winds, and
from the North-east monsoon, but it is quite exposed to the southward
and south-east. At the head of the bay the land is low, and there is a
sandy beach ; the eastern side of the bay is high and mountainous. The
village of Kinsiang stands in the north-east bight of the bay, immediately
under Round hill ; to the northward of Kinsiang point there are not more
than 3 fathoms at low tide. Two rivers empty themselves at the head
of the bay, with bars of less than 9 feet water, and the sea usually breaks
all across them ; the western river communicates with Hong-ha'i bay, and
affords a passage for boats and even small junks.
Near Tongmi point, which bears E.N.E. 14 miles from Chelang point,
there is a remarkable conical hill 455 feet high, named Chino peak, which,
with the islets of Tung-ki and Si-ki, render this side of the bay easy to
recognize. The peak bears N.W. N. 2 miles from Tung-ki, which is
about 18 feet above the sea, and has some detached rocks lying on its
80 HONG KONG TO AMOY. [CHAP. in.
eastern side, and three rocks awash at low water, half a cable's length
from its north-west side ; the channel between it and the main is a mile
wide, and carries a depth of 9 to 12 fathoms. Si-ki islet, 80 feet high,
rises abruptly and is cleft at the summit ; from it Tung-ki bears E.N.E.
3 miles, and Cbino peak N.N.E. ^ E. Between the two islets the
soundings are 11 and 12 fathoms. A mile North of Tung-ki, and East
three-quarters of a mile from Tongmi point, is a cluster of rocks nearly
level with the water's edge.
PAUXSHAO BAY, on the western side of Hie-che-chin bay, affords
good shelter, unless the wind comes to the eastward of South, there
being a depth of five fathoms with Paukshao point bearing westward
of South. Paukshao point is of moderate height, with numerous rocks
scattered over its surface. The other point to the westward has a high
battery on it ; and between this latter point and the high land to the
northward there is an opening into a deep harbour, the entrance to which
is nearly barred by rocks, and the harbour too shoal for vessels drawing
over 6 feet. There is said to be a sunken rock lying N.E. about half a
cable's length from Paukshao point.
CHINO BAY is on the eastern side of Hi-che-chin bay, to the north-
ward of Chino peak, and on its shore there is a fort and small village,
abreast of which the water is shoal, the 2 fathoms line of soundings being
half a mile from the shore. West from Chino peak the Chino reef extends
4 cables from the shore, the outer rock of which does not show at high
water unless there is a considerable swell ; when upon it Tung-ki bears
S.E. 1 E., Si-ki S. by W. f W., and -the East White stone, in the northern
part of the bay, is in line with Round hill, bearing N.N.W. f W.*
A dangerous coral rock, with only 7 feet water on it, on which the
Sarah Lucy struck, lies 8^ cables to the south-east of the Yellow Stone.
It has 4^ fathoms, mud, close to, and from it the Yellow Stone bears
N.W. W.; small rocky isle at mouth of the creek leading to Kieshi-wei
N. by E. 1 E. ; and the extreme of Chino point S.S.E. easterly. When
proceeding to the anchorage, keep the East White Stone open to the west-
ward of the Yellow Stone.
The best anchorage is in a depth of 3| fathoms farther to the north-
ward about East of the Yellow Stone, which is the southernmost of all
the rocks, with the exception of the Sarah Lucy, in the north-east part
of the bay. The walled town of Keishi-wci, bearing E. by N. 3 miles
from the Yellow Stone, will be seen over the low land from this
* See Chart : East Coast of China, Sheet 3, No. 1,963 ; scale d = Ui inches ; with
enlarged Plan of Chino Bay on it, scale m = one inch.
CHAP, in.] CHINO BAY. HUTUNG POINT. 81
anchorage ; there is a creek leading up to it which will admit junks at
low water.
Between the Yellow Stone and the rocks, three quarters of a mile
N.N.W. of it, there is a channel carrying 4j fathoms ; but vessels are
recommended not to approach that part of the bay northward of the
Yellow Stone, as there are several sunken rocks, one of which bears
N.W. by W. 4- W. \-$ miles from the Yellow Stone, on which bearing
it is in line with the northern end of Chino bay hills ; from it the East
White Stone bears N.E. by E. f E. and the West White Stone, N.W. | W.
As this rock lies to the south-westward of all those above water, care
must be taken to avoid it in working up the bay ; the East and West
White Stones will be known by their being the largest of the group.
Vessels drawing less than 18 feet may stand into the bay to the north-
ward of the West White Stone, where the depth is 3^ to 2^ fathoms, the
water shoaling gradually towards the beach.
HVTtTKrc POINT. From Tongmi point the coast trends in an
E. by N. -^ N. direction about 15^ miles to Cupchi point. At the distance
of 4^ miles is Black Rock point, with black rocks off it, and a square
white rock on its south-west side ; N.W. 1-| cables from the white rock
is a sunken rock. This bay is not deep enough to afford shelter.
About half way between the above points is the mouth of the river
Hutung, which falls into the sea westward of Hutung point, but it has
only 6 feet water over the bar. There is a fort on its south bank, and
close to the fort a remarkable dome-shaped building, apparently intended
for a fire beacon ; this is a good mark in hazy weather, being so easily
recognized, indeed there is nothing resembling it on this part of the
coast.* S.S.E. IT,- miles from the fort is a small islet, surrounded by
reefs and detached rocks, one of which, to the eastward, is of a curious
shape, from which it has obtained the name of Figure rock.
At 3 miles eastward of Hutung point the hills come down to the beach,
and on one of their peaks is a conspicuous knob. At a mile from the
beach lies a flat rock with sunken dangers between it and the shore ;
there is also a rock awash to the S.E. of* it.
CTTPCHI POINT, 210 feet above the sea, has a rugged summit, and
near its south end there is a dilapidated fort.f South 1^- miles from
the point is Turtle rock, 14 feet above the sea, and inside of it two
islets, and four patches of rock. The junks pass between Turtle rock
* See view on chart.
t See enlarged Plan of Cupchi Point, scale, m = 1 inch, on Sheet 3, East Coast of
China.
[0.]
82 HONG KONG TO AMOY. [CHAP. in.
and the rock next to the northward, though sunken rocks lie westward
of both, and much discoloured water, which, however, is a help to detect
them.
Between the islets and the point the channel is 2 cables wide, but the
bottom is rocky and uneven, and a rock on which the steamer Five
Brothers was wrecked, 28th Feb. 1859, lies 60 fathoms South of the
point. The least water on this rock is 12 feet, and as many sunken
dangers are in its vicinity, it would be imprudent for a stranger to
attempt the passage. A ledge of rocks extends 2 cables from the point
westward of the fort, its outer end breaking at low water.
A remarkable little black conical hill, named the Black mount, rises
230 feet above the sea from a red sand down, at 4^ miles to the north-
east of Cupchi point, and half a mile from the beach. Reefs extend from
the shore half a mile along this part of the coast.
ANCHORAGE. There is good anchorage during the North-east
monsoon to the southward of the Shag rock, which lies N.N.W. of
Cupchi point, at half a mile off shore and is 3 feet above high water ;
it has 2^ fathoms around it, except on its S.S.E. side, where there is a
projecting reef. On the main, abreast this rock, is a fort standing on the
left bank of a river leading to the walled town of Kiahtsz. The town is
If miles from the fort, having to the southward of it a pagoda two
stories high. On the bar of the river there are 9 feet at low water,*
but the channel over it is both crooked and narrow. Nearer the en-
trance there is a second fort, and on the sandy point opposite a martello
tower.
TUNGAO ROAD. The village of Tungao stands in a bight of the
coast N.E. by E., 15 miles from Cupchi point, the intervening shore
being low and sandy. On the bar of the river, west of the village, the sea
breaks heavily at low water, and outside the bar the water shoals suddenly,
so that vessels approaching the anchorage in Tungao road should not
bring the fort at the village to bear eastward of N.E. N., when within
1^ miles of it ; this will be found a good roadstead in the North-east
monsoon. There are two pagodas in the neighbourhood, one on the low
land at the east side of the river's mouth ; the other on the hills 2 miles
to the northward.
S.E. by E. 2 miles from Tungao is a white rock, which forms a good
%
* Capt. P. Cracroft, -who visited this locality in II.M.S. Niger, Feb. 1859, found only
6 feet on the bar at low water. On the 3rd, the day before new moon, it was low water
on the bar at 10 a.m., and high water at about 4 p.m., with a rise of about 5 feet. There
can be no doubt, however, that the time of high water on this part of the coast varies
with the force of the monsoon.
CHAP, in.] TUNGAO ROAD. BREAKER POINT. 83
mark by which this part of the coast may be recognized ; half way
between the rock and the village is a creek with a fort upon the hills
eastward of it. The land near the coast is low, with several fishing
villages in the sandy bays ; the boats belonging to which are numerous,
and being of different shape and smaller than those of Hai-mun and
Cupchi, will enable a vessel to identify her position in a fog.
BREAKER POINT, lying 9 miles eastward of Tungao road and
E. by N. f N. 23 miles from Cupchi point, may be known by a black
dome-shaped hill rising 280 feet from a red sand drift on the point, from
whence the hills trend northward and westward, dipping suddenly at
their extremity. At the south extreme of the point is a remarkable
rocking stone, and oft' the south-east and south-west points of land on
each side of the stone are two small islets ; a fort stands on the point
within. Detached reefs lie off" the shore, which should not be approached
within half a mile.
At 2 miles westward of Breaker point is a small islet having a Flat
rock, part of which is always uncovered to the S.E. of it. W. ^ S.,
distant 8 cables from this rock, and South from the islet, lies a sunken
rock on which the sea seldom breaks. The bay westward of Breaker
point, and which is fronted by Flat rock and the islet, cannot be re-
commended as a place of shelter, being full of rocks.
TIDES It is high water, full and change, at Kin-siang point in
Hie-che-chin bay, at 7h. Om. ; at the Shag rock, north-west of Cupchi
point, at 8h. Om. ; and in Hai-mun bay and the Cape of Good Hope
at 9h. Om. ; and the rise is 6 or 7 feet.
In Tungao road it was high water, full and change, in January, at
3h. Om. At 5 miles eastward of the road the ebb ran to the westward
a knot per hour on the 12th day of the moon, and no flood tide was
perceptible during that month. There is a tide race with the flood off"
the Cape of Good Hope.
From observations on the tidal streams, from January to May, between
Breaker point and Hong Kong, the ebb runs to the eastward, but, generally
speaking, very little tide was experienced. To the eastward of Breaker
point, however, the flood sets to the eastward, which is its direction
throughout the north-east coast of China ; the times of high water, full
and change, from Hong Kong to the Yang-tse kiang, not deviating more
than one to three hours before the moon's transit, unless obstructed by
local causes, with the exception of the vicinity of Breaker point, where it
was high water at 3h. 30m. p.m. at the full moon, January 1845.
TONG-X.AE POINT bears N.E. by N. 5 miles from Breaker point, and
about a mile westward of it is the entrance to a creek leading to the
F 2
84 HONG KONG TO AMOY. [CHAP. in.
walled town of Tong-lae. On the eastern side near the entrance is a
fort, under which indifferent shelter might be found in the North-east
monsoon by a vessel of not more than 12 feet draught, but she would be
in an awkward position should the wind come to the southward of East.
Sunken rocks abound along this portion of the coast, one of which lies
6 cables from the land, with the fort bearing N.W. b. N., and Rocky
point N. by E. E.
Rocky point is low and bears N.E. If miles from Tong-lae point ; from
thence the coast trends northerly for 4^ miles, joining a headland with
reefs extending a quarter of a mile to the south-eastward.
HAX-nxuxr BAY is between the above headland and Hai-mun point,
N.E. -^ E. 7 miles from it, and carries a general depth of 6 and 7 fathoms.
The highest part of the hills at the back of this point forms two peaks,
on the highest of which is an artificial mound 590 feet above the sea.
There are three pagodas on the land to the northward of the bay, two of
which are on the hills, and can be seen in clear weather from Namoa
island, the other is on the low land.
Parkyns rock, on which the sea breaks at low tide, lies 9 cables to
the southward of Hai-mun point, and from it the artificial mound bears
N. | E. ; Cape of Good Hope, N.E. by E. f E. ; and Rocky Head point,
on the eastern side of entrance of Hai-mun river, N.W. Rocky Head
point in line with the west peak of Pagoda range, bearing N.W. J- N.,
will lead close to the south-west side of the rock ; there is a passage
between it and the main.*
A rocky ledge with 2\ fathoms on its southern end extends 6 cables
from the fort point. The above mark leading close to the Parkyns
rock points to its southern edge, with the fort bearing N.E. There
is also a rock awash at low water lying W. f N. half a mile from
the fort, the mark for which is the west peak of Pagoda range in line
with a large stone in the centre of the first sandy beach eastward of
Rocky Head point bearing N.W. ^ N. The channel between this rock
and the western shore of the bay is 4 cables wide.
There is another rock showing at low water, the bearings from which
are the south extreme of Hai-mun point E. b. S., Rocky Head point
N.E. -^ N., and the west peak of Pagoda range N.W. b. N.
' HAi-ittTW RIVER has 10 feet on its bar at low water. The town is
built on the left bank, one mile from the entrance, and north of the town
the river turns to the westward. The land being low to the northward,
a canal communication with the Shantau estuary will most likely be found.
* See enlarged Plan of Hai-mun Point, scale, m = 1 inch, on Sheet 3, East Coast of
China.
CHAP, m.] HAI-MUN BAY. CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 85
HOPE BAY is formed between Hai-mun point and the south extreme
of the Cape of Good Hope, which bears E. by N. ^ N. distant about
9 miles. The detached rocks lying along the coast for 3^ miles to the
N.E. of Hai-mun point, renders it advisable for a vessel not to close this
part of the shore nearer than half a mile, until beyond that distance,
when the sandy beach is steep-to.
There is a secure anchorage in the North-east monsoon on the southern
side of the cape, to the north-west -of Tide point ; the smoothest water
will be found in the outer little sandy bay near a fort and a large tree.
Sunken rocks extend a cable's length from the fort point ; otherwise this
sandy bay is clear and the lead will be the best guide.*
On the western side of this sandy bay is a remarkable peaked rock ;
and 1^ miles to the N.W. of this rock is the entrance to a creek which
makes the Cape of Good Hope an island, and communicates with the
Shantau estuary and the river Han. The creek has 7 feet water over
the bar, which is barely a cable across, and is defended by a fort. Reefs
extend south-westerly 3 cables from the latter fort to a rock awash at
high water, rendering the straight channel impassable to the large fishing
boats at low water ; at this time of tide they leave the rock to the
eastward and pass between it and two islets off the fort. In the event of
a vessel being wrecked on the coast, and the crew wishing to reach the
depot vessels at Namoa island, this would be the best route, as few boats
could live in the tide race off the cape.
CAPE of GOOD HOPE is the north-east extreme of a hilly peninsula,
the highest part, 480 feet above the sea, appearing like a dome. The
eastern face of the peninsula is steep-to, and has three points projecting
from it ; the northernmost is the cape, the middle one is named Ma-urh
point, and the third Tide point from the tide race which sets round it.
On the north side of the peninsula is Green islet, having a patch of rocks
between it and the land.
At 3 miles northward of the cape and half a mile from the shore is
Bill islet, 56 feet high ; and S. b. E. 4 cables from Bill islet is Squat
rock, with a reef lying 2 cables westward of it, and showing at low tide.
Rocks extend from the points on the main abreast these two islets, and in
the narrow channel there are 3 fathoms water. Abreast of Bill islet the
coast trends N.W. b. N. 3 miles to Sugarloaf island, which has a reef
extending a cable from its east point.
RIVER HAN From Sugarloaf island the coast trends westward,
forming the south side of the entrance of the River Han, the bar of which
* See enlarged Plan of Cape of Good Hope, on Sheet 3, East Coast of China : also
Entrance of the River Han, No. 2,789 ; scale, m = 0'75 of an inch.
86 HONG KONG TO AMOY. [CHAP. in.
has 2^ fathoms on it at low tide. N.W. b. N. three-quarters of a mile
from Sugarloaf is Double island, from which the town of Swatau or
Shantau, upon the north bank of the river, bears W. by N. ^ N. 4 miles.
At half a mile to the south-east of the town the depth is 8 fathoms, and at
low tide the water in the rainy season is fresh. Swatau is the port of Chin-
hae, which is distant about 2 miles to the north-east. The country in the
vicinity is highly cultivated ; sugar-cane and tobacco grow luxuriantly.
*The tides inside Double island are very irregular ; in ordinary
weather the rise and fall is from 8 to 9 feet. Any vessel from 13 to
14 feet draught, with a fair wind, could in fine weather with no ground
swell on, enter the port at any time of tide with safety.
DIRECTION'S. The Cape of Good Hope may be rounded closely if
necessary when bound to the river Han, steering for the Pagoda hill,
which makes like an island to the northward, until Bill islet and Squat
rock are plainly seen. Having passed about 2 cables eastward of Bill
islet, bring the middle of the islet in line with the extreme of the Cape,
and it will lead in mid-channel and towards Double island. When
the high point opposite Shantau opens northward of Double island, a
vessel may stand towards the latter, close to the fishing stakes, but its
south-east side should not be approached within 3 cables' lengths. Double
island will not show double until it bears N.W., and Sugarloaf island is
likely to mislead a stranger as it has not the slightest resemblance to its
name. There are establishments on Double island belonging to English
merchants, and receiving ships for opium lie here.
The channel between Double island and the mainland to the northward
is half a mile wide, the mud drying that distance from the shore, which
is low. Joachim bank is an extension of this mud flat in a south-easterly
direction, its southern edge in 2 fathoms bearing E. b. S. 2^ miles from
Double island. A good guide to lead a vessel of 14 feet draught to the
eastward of this bank is, to keep Brig island open of the east end of Fort
island, bearing N.E. ^ N. ; but great care must be taken, for in bad
weather the sea breaks heavily, and in light winds the flood sets strongly
over it.f
FORT ISLAND, with a fort on the table-laud at its western end, lies
E.N.E. nearly 2 miles from a pagoda (260 feet above the level of the
sea), which bears N. \ E. 10^ miles from the Cape of Good Hope : the
pagoda stands on an isolated hill near the coast, and the land in its
vicinity is so low, that the hill when first seen appears like an island.
The channel between Fort island and the main is shoal.
* See Plan of Namoa Island, No. 1,957 ; scale, m = - 7 of an inch.
f Nautical Magazine, page 335, year 1859.
CHAP, in.] RIVER HAN. NAMOA ISLAND. 87
BRIG ISLAND, so called from a rock at its southern extremity which
appears like a brig when seen in an east or west direction, lies N.E. 4 E.
4 miles from Fort island, the depths varying from 2-^ to 4 fathoms, the
most water being towards Brig island.
NAIYXOA ISLAND, 12 miles long, east and west, and 5| miles wide at
its broadest eastern part, is separated from the main by a channel about
3^ miles wide with depths varying from 3 to 6 fathoms. The peaks of
this island (of which there are three) form the most prominent land-marks
in the neighbourhood, and rise to the height of 1,700 and 1,900 feet above
the sea. Notwithstanding its barrenness, the island is exceedingly popu-
lous, the fisheries affording a livelihood to the greater portion of the
inhabitants. Clipper point, its western extreme, is fronted to the south-
ward by knolls of sand which shift, and which render Iccal knowledge
necessary when steering for the anchorage on the west side of Namoa.
The eastern entrance, between the north point of Namoa and fort head,
is much wider and has a general depth of 7 fathoms.
KNOLLS off WEST END of NAMOA. S.E. b. E. 4| miles from
Pagoda hill, with the west end of Namoa island in line with Breaker
island bearing N.E. ^ N., there w.as formerly a shoal with only 11 feet
water on it ; in August 1844, there were several knolls, none of which
however had less than 13 feet. The following are their bearings :
The west point of Namoa island in line with Breaker island N.E. b. N.
is the mark for three of the knolls. From the westernmost knoll, with
13 feet on it, Pagoda hill bears N.W. b. W.; from another with 17 feet
it bears W.N.W.; and from a third with 18 feet it bears West. With
Pagoda hill W. b. N., and the west point of Namoa N.N.E. there is a
knoll with only 14 feet on it. All these are sand, and will probably be
found to shift, owing to the freshes from the river Han.
BAYXiis BAV and CUPPER, ROAD. Bay 1 is bay is the first inlet on
the west side of Namoa island, to the northward of Clipper point, and
there is a fort on the ridge to the westward of it, and an outwork on the
beach. There are three knolls off this bay, bearing from the fort as
follows : the first, W. b. N. rather less than a cable's length from the fort
point, with only 5 feet water over it; the second, N.W. N. a cable's
length from the point, with 9 feet on it ; and the third, N.W. f N., a
quarter of a mile from the same point, with 11 feet on it. From the
latter the summit of Brig island bears N.W. ^ N., and the summit of
Fort island W. by S. S.
During the North-east monsoon the opium vessels anchor off this bay,
remaining here from October unt May. In the other monsoon they
88 HONG KONG TO AMOY. [CHAP. in.
lie 1- miles to the north-eastward in Clipper road, abreast Steward's
house, as the swell setting round Clipper point renders that anchorage
inconvenient. With the exception of a few narrow passages of about 90
or 100 feet wide, the channel inside Namoa island is staked across ; but
vessels soon shoot through them.
From Baylis bay a bank commences and borders the north-west coast
of Namoa for 2^ miles ; its greatest distance from the shore is 4 cables,
which is abreast Steward's house ; the lead gives'no warning, and there
are only 9 feet upon its edge.
Supplies. These two anchorages must be considered more as safe road-
steads than harbours, as from the velocity of the tide and the fetch of the
sea, laden boats would frequently have much difficulty in passing to and
fro. Water may be procured with great facility and there is no difficulty
in obtaining fresh provisions.
ROCK, with only 5 feet on it, lies with the south
extreme of the Brig rock in line with the north-west head of Fort
island, bearing S.W. by W. -| W. ; Coffin island (the largest of a cluster
of islets 3 miles north of Brig island) N. W. ; and the flagstaff at Steward's
house is in line with a whitewash rock at the back of it, S. by E.
The south extreme of Brig rock, just open of the north-west extreme
of Fort island, will lead south of the Folkstone, and also of the shoal
which extends nearly all the way from Brig island to Breaker island ; the
latter (a peaked rock with several others around it, Avhich must not be
approached nearer than 2 cables upon its western side) bears from Brig
island N.E. by E. f E. To the eastward of Breaker island, shoal water
extends a great distance from the northern shore ; its south edge in 3
fathoms bears East 3 miles from the island.
SHOAXi BA7. From Opium point the north coast of Namoa trends to
the south-east, forming a deep indentation, named Shoal bay, in which
there are two islets and several rocks ; the land at the bottom of this bay
is low, and only a mile across to the southern side of the island.
BAT, the next bay eastward of Shoal bay, has at its head
a walled town, the residence of the magistrate of the district. Vessels
drawing less than 18 feet may stand into this bay until Pagoda island
bears E. by N.; but during the North-east monsoon there is a consider-
able swell in it, and the entrance of Challum bay, on the opposite shore,
will be found a more eligible anchorage, and vessels will be in a better
position to avail themselves of the land wind, which usually draws to the
northward in the morning.
CHAP, in.] NAMOA ISLAND. - LAMOCK ISLANDS. 89
The North point of Namoa has a double peak over it, and forms the
eastern boundary of Nangaou bay : rocks extend 3 cables from its north-
eastern face.
/
PAGODA and SOUTH BAYS. From Clipper point the southern
coast of Namoa trends nearly East 5 miles, where there is a small bay
with a pagoda upon its eastern point. This portion of the island corre-
sponds with Shoal bay on the northern shore.
South bay is 4 miles eastward of Pagoda bay, and affords good shelter
in the North-east monsoon ; rocks extend If cables southerly from its
eastern point. Vessels drawing 18 feet may run into this bay until the
extreme of the point bears S.E. About half a mile to the south-east of
the point is a low flat island, called Crab islet, and in the channel between
it and Namoa the ground is foul. At about 1 miles eastward of South
bay is a bold bluff (the southernmost point of Namoa), with three tall
chimneys on it.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, in Clipper road, Namoa
island, at llh. lorn., and springs rise about 7 feet. The streams on the
north side of the island run parallel to it at the rate of 1 to 3 knots.
The flood comes in on the north as well as on the south side of the island,
but the streams in the neighbourhood of Nangaou bay are not so strong
as at the western end of the island, where they run 4 knots at the springs,
the ebb coming from the eastward.
ISLANDS are a group of four islets, with two patches
of rocks extending altogether in a N.E. and S.W. direction 7^ miles.
From their south extreme, the west end of Namoa bears N.W. ^ W.
22 miles ; from their north end, the east point of Namoa bears N.W.
13^ miles, and the south-eastern Brother N.E. by E. 25| miles. At the
south-west end of the group are two square rocks, 15 feet above high
water, and named Boat rocks ; they are about the size of boats, and have
several reefs between them.
White rock, lying N.E. 1^ miles from the Boat rocks, is sufficiently
large to afford protection to boats. The distance between the White rock..
and High Lamock island is 3 miles, with a safe channel between, the
depth varying from 8 to 14 fathoms. High Lamock, 250 feet above the
sea, is thickly covered with brushwood. The channel between it and
East Lamock is 1^ miles across, and in about the middle of the channel
there is a rock, with a reef, which shows at low tide, extending southerly
1^ cables' lengths from it. The three northern islets lie close together ;
the northern one, which has a pyramid on it, is without vegetation.
9^ HONQ KONG TO AMOY. [CHAP. m.
Mr. Anderson, master of the ship Sir . Ryan, states, that he saw a
rock (when in command of the Times schooner) to the N.E. of the
Lamock islands. He described it as " a rock awash 3 miles from the
North rocks, with all the Lamocks in one ; "H.M.S. Plover, however,
searched for it without success.
TIDES. In the month of April, with High Lamock island bearing
E. S. 17 miles, the tides made as follows : 1st hour of ebb S.W. W.
1 knots ; 2nd hour, S.W. by S. l knots ; 3rd hour, S.W. by S. l knots,
and the 4th hour, S.S.W. half a knot. Flood, 1st hour, N.E. by E. 1
knot ; 2nd hour, E.N.E. l knots ; 3rd hour, E.N.E. l knots ; 4th hour,
E.N.E. 11 knots ; and the 5th hour, E.S.E. half a knot. And in
September, with High Lamock bearing E. by N. 4 miles : The ebb, 1st
hour, S. by E. half a knot ; 2nd hour, S. by W. 1 knot ; 3rd hour, S.S.W.
1 knot ; and the 4th hour, S.S.W. 1^ knots. The flood ran to the N.E.
the whole tide, the total amount being 10^ knots.
Thus in passing inside the Lamock islands, attention to the tide as well
as to the vessel's course is necessary.
DOME ISLAND and LAMON ROCKS. Between the Lamock islands
and Namoa are four islets ; the northernmost of which is the highest,
and from its appearance is called Dome island. The two southern islets,
lying east and west of each other, are named Ruff rock and Oeste rock ;
to the southward of the Ruff are the Dot and Sul rocks. A reef extends
a third of a mile to the southward of the Sul ; the east end of the Oeste
in line with the east end of Plat island bearing N.W., leads to the south-
ward. Plat island is flat topped, and is lower than the Ruff or the
Oeste.
SITJTA ROCK, with only 2 feet water upon it, lies S.E. f S., nearly
5 miles from Dome islet, with the south-west extreme of Ruff rock
in line with the summit of Plat island, bearing W.N.W. ;ithe East point
of Namoa island N. by W. ; and the highest part of High Lamock
island E. by S. S.
YENG ROCK, awash at low water, lies N. E. 5 miles from the Sint:i,
with the north end of Crab islet in one with the south-west point of
Namoa, bearing W. by N. ; Dome islet W. by S. S. ; High Lamock
S.E. | S., and the east end of Namoa N.N.W. f W. The North point
of Namoa seen clear of the East point, leads to the north-eastward.
BAX.F-TXDE REEF. There is another patch of rocks which show at
half tide, between Dome islet and Namoa, bearing from the former, from
N. by E. to N.N.E. ^ E. distant one mile. They lie rather more than a
mile from the Namoa shore, S.E. by S. from Three Chimney bluff.
CHAP, in.] LAMON ROCKS. CHALLUM BAY. - CHAUAN BAY. Ql
ROCKS, 20 feet high, are a cluster of four rocks, bearing
East nearly 7 miles from the North point of Namoa island.
The DIOYTT is a reef just awash at high water, lying N.W. by N.
3^ miles from the Chelsieu ; but should high tides and smooth water
prevent its being seen, Pagoda island in Nangaou bay, in line with Saddle
peak, on Namoa, bearing S. W. by W. W., will lead northward of it.
CHAiiX.T7ivi BAY is fronted by the northern side of Namoa island, and,
as before stated in page 88, its entrance affords better shelter during the
North-east monsoon than Nangaou bay.
To enter this bay, pass within a mile westward of a barren rock,
named Middle islet, bearing N.E. by E, 5^ miles from Breaker island.
The anchorage is between Entrance island and Middle islet, in 6 to 3
fathoms ; the bay north of Entrance island is shoal. Should a vessel pass
eastward of Middle islet, it must be within half a mile, as there is shoal
water (11 feet) extending 9 cables from Fort head. When running in,
steer for the East point of Entrance island, and beware of the starboard
shore, as the water shoals suddenly on that side, and there is a sand bank
which shows at low water, lying nearly half a mile to the southward
of the west end of Challum island. Under Fort head is a rock nearly
covered at high tide, and also one in the bay between it and Difficult
point ; otherwise the coast line here is steep-to.
DIFFICULT ISLET, 110 feet above the sea, lies nearly 3 miles to the
E.N.E. of Fort head, the east point of entrance to Challum bay : and
on the highest part of the hills over Difficult point (the point west of the
islet) is a square fort.
TERITATE ROCK, with only one foot water on it, lies E. by N. 1^
te
miles from the summit of Difficult islet, which will then be in line with
the third and last sandy hill on the northern part of the range extending
from Fort head. Pagoda island, in Nangaou bay, in one with Namoa
peak S.S.W. f W., will lead close to the eastward of it.
SHALLOW BAY Six and a half miles E.N.E. of Difficult point is
the entrance to a shallow bay with a pagoda on an island within it ; the
boundary line of the two provinces, Fu-kyen and Quang-tung, passes
through this bay.
CHATTAUT BAY The entrance to this bay is 10 miles to the N.E. ^-E.
from the north extreme of Namoa island, and its western point, which is
the eastern point of Shallow bay, has a small islet off its south extreme.
94 HONG KONG TO AMOY. [CHAP. in.
The walled town of Tongyung stands on a peninsula on the western
shore of the entrance abreast Pagoda island, and although the channel
between it and the island is 3 cables wide, it is not a good one to enter
by, as rocks extend from both shores. Tongsang basin runs back
N.N.W. 11 miles from the Middle islands, and there is said to be a
river at its head ; 3 fathoms water were obtained at the highest point
reached, but the channel was very narrow. There is a boat passage
on the western side of the basin leading into Chauan bay, the entrance
to which bears West from Fall peak. In the north-west portion of
the basin is a range of high mountains, remarkable for their rugged
appearance.
CAUTION. When running into Tongsang harbour, sail should be
reduced in time, if the wind is fresh outside, for violent squalls will be
experienced under Thunder head.
When proceeding eastward, the coast on the eastern side of Thunder
head must not be approached within a cable's length, as there are some
rocks along it ; the south face of the head, however, is steep-to.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, in Tongsang harbour at
llh. 30m.; springs rise 12 feet.
R.EES ROCK, which covers at high-water springs, lies S.E. by E. f E.
If miles from Fall peak, with the chimneys on Chimney island, forming
the eastern side of Rees pass, bearing N.E. by N. ; a rock, on which the
sea breaks at low water, lies a cable's length to the eastward of it. Pass
islands bear N. f E. 1^ miles from Rees rock, and the ground between
them and the rock being foul with shoal water, should not be approached.
Junks use a channel 2 cables wide between the Pass islands and the
main.*
REES PASS is formed between Pass and Rees islands, and on its
eastern side, W. by S. from the chimneys and 3 cables from the shore of
Chimney island, is a shoal with only 2 fathoms on it. The .Rees islands
are barren, and only inhabited by a few fishermen.
H.M.S. Plover rode out a heavy gale veering from N.E. to E. by N.,
in this Pass ; she anchored in 6 fathoms, at 2 cables westward of the
black rock at the southern end of the sandy bay under the chimneys.
There is also anchorage^ under South-east island in 6 fathoms, with
its south point bearing East. It is said that in the northerly monsoon a
vessel will not gain anything by going through the Pass, for on clearing
* See enlarged Plan of Rees Pass, scale, m = 2 inches, on Sheet 4, East Coast of
China.
CHAP, in.] BEES PASS* HUTAU BAY. -BLACK. HEAD. Q5
the north end of Chimney island as much swell will be experienced as
will be found eastward of the group.
The Simplicia Wreck rocks lie 6 cables to the N.E. of South-east island,
and at their eastern end are several rugged rocks, on the outermost of
which the ship Simplicia went to pieces on the 8th of October, 1844,
having struck upon a reef which shows at low water, and lies a cable to
the north-east of the outer rock.
CAUTION. In the neighbourhood of the Rees islands the sea rises
rapidly after the commencement of a breeze, and over tops, leading to the
supposition that there must be some change in the soundings.
DANBSORG ISLAND, lying 2 miles to the N.E. of the Simplicia Wreck
rocks, is 6 cables long, N.E. and S.W., and a quarter of a mile wide ;
there are three peaks on it of nearly equal heights. Skead islet is
1^ miles to the W.N.W. of this island, and between them, at the distance
of 4 cables from the islet, there is another small islet with a reef extending
from its west point ; a reef also projects from the east point of Skead
islet.
CHING BOCK, which covers at half tide, lies N. by W. | W. 1^
miles from Skead islet, with the north-east peak of Dansborg bearing
S.E. -| E. ; the chimneys on Chimney island S.W. W. ; the Awoota
rock, W. by S. f S. ; and Black head, N. by E. The Ching is the highest
head of a reef, of some extent, the north-eastern rocks of which break
only at low water, and extend 2 cables eastward of its highest part.
The eastern Simplicia open east of Skead islet, leads to the eastward of
the reef.
GOO ROCK is 2 miles to the S.W. by W. ^ W. of the Ching, and
shows at the last quarter ebb ; when on jit the chimneys on Chimney
island bear S.W. ^ S., the Awoota rock, W. f S., the summit of the
Simplicia Wreck rocks, S.E. |. S., and Skead islet, E. S. The Awoota
lies close to the main, N.W. ^ W. 2 miles from the chimneys on
Chimney island.
HIT-TATT-SHAN, or BLACK, HEAD, 5 miles to the northward of
Dansborg island, comprises five separate hills, the southern of which,
Black head, is the most remarkable. On the northern of the five hills is
a walled town.
The Hu-tau-shan river, which disembogues on the western side of the
head, has deep water inside the entrance, but it is not available for navi-
gation without being buoyed, as the channels, besides being narrow and
intricate, are liable to continual change.
94 HONG KONG TO AMOY. [CHAP. in.
The walled town of Tongyung stands on a peninsula on the western
shore of the entrance abreast Pagoda island, and although the channel
between it and the island is 3 cables wide, it is not a good one to enter
by, as rocks extend from both shores. Tongsang basin runs back
N.N.W. 11 miles from the Middle islands, and there is said to be a
river at its head ; 3 fathoms water were obtained at the highest point
reached, but the channel was very narrow. There is a boat passage
on the western side of the basin leading into Chauan bay, the entrance
to which bears West from Fall peak. In the north-west portion of
the basin is a range of high mountains, remarkable for their rugged
appearance.
CAUTION. When running into Tongsang harbour, sail should be
reduced in time, if the wind is fresh outside, for violent squalls will be
experienced under Thunder head.
When proceeding eastward, the coast on the eastern side of Thunder
head must not be approached within a cable's length, as there are some
rocks along it ; the south face of the head, however, is steep-to.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, in Tongsang harbour at
llh. 30m.; springs rise 12 feet.
REES ROCK, which covers at high-water springs, lies S.E. by E. | E.
If miles from Fall peak, with the chimneys on Chimney island, forming
the eastern side of Rees pass, bearing N.E. by N. ; a rock, on which the
sea breaks at low water, lies a cable's length to the eastward of it. Pass
islands bear N. f E. 1^ miles from Rees rock, and the ground between
them and the rock being foul with shoal water, should not be approached.
Junks use a channel 2 cables wide between the Pass islands and the
main.*
REES PASS is formed between Pass and Rees islands, and on its
eastern side, W. by S. from the chimneys and 3 cables from the shore of
Chimney island, is a shoal with only 2^ fathoms on it. The Rees islands
are barren, and only inhabited by a few fishermen.
H.M.S. Plover rode out a heavy gale veering from N.E. to E. by N.,
in this Pass ; she anchored in 6 fathoms, at 2 cables westward of the
black rock at the southern end of the sandy bay under the chimneys.
There is also anchorage^ under South-east island in 6 fathoms, with
its south point bearing East. It is said that in the northerly monsoon a
vessel will not gain anything by going through the Pass, for on clearing
* See enlarged Plan of Rees Pass, scale, m = 2 inches, on Sheet 4, East Coast of
China.
CHAP, in.] REES PASS* HUTAU BAY. BLACK HEAD. Q5
the north end of Chimney island as much swell will be experienced as
will be found eastward of the group.
The Simplicia Wreck rocks lie 6 cables to the N.E. of South-east island,
and at their eastern end are several rugged rocks, on the outermost of
which the ship Simplicia went to pieces on the 8th of October, 1844,
having struck upon a reef which shows at low water, and lies a cable to
the north-east of the outer rock.
CAUTION. In the neighbourhood of the Rees islands the sea rises
rapidly after the commencement of a breeze, and over tops, leading to the
supposition that there must be some change in the soundings.
DAXTBSORG ISLAND, lying 2 miles to the N.E. of the Simplicia Wreck
rocks, is 6 cables long, N.E. and S.W., and a quarter of a mile wide ;
there are three peaks on it of nearly equal heights. Skead islet is
1^ miles to the W.N.W. of this island, and between them, at the distance
of 4 cables from the islet, there is another small islet with a reef extending
from its west point ; a reef also projects from the east point of Skead
islet.
CHING ROCK, which covers at half tide, lies N. by W. | W. 1-j^
miles from Skead islet, with the north-east peak of Dansborg bearing
S.E. ^ E. ; the chimneys on Chimney island S.W. W. ; the Awoota
rock, W. by S. f S. ; and Black head, N. by E. The Ching is the highest
head of a reef, of some extent, the north-eastern rocks of which break
only at low water, and extend 2 cables eastward of its highest part.
The eastern Simplicia open east of Skead islet, leads to the eastward of
the reef.
GOO ROCK is 2 miles to the S.W. by W. W. of the Ching, and
shows at the last quarter ebb ; when on it the chimneys on Chimney
island bear S.W. S., the Awoota rock, W. S., the summit of the
Simplicia Wreck rocks, S.E. S., and Skead islet, E. S. The Awoota
lies close to the main, N.W. ^ W. 2 miles from the chimneys on
Chimney island.
HU-TATT-SHAN, or BLACK. HEAD, 5 miles to the northward of
Dansborg island, comprises five separate hills, the southern of which,
Black head, is the most remarkable. On the northern of the five hills is
a walled town.
The Hu-tau-shan river, which disembogues on the western side of the
head, has deep water inside the entrance, but it is not available for navi-
gation without being buoyed, as the channels, besides being narrow and
intricate, are liable to continual change.
96 HONG KONG TO AMOV. [CHAP. m.
A spit extends 3 miles iti a south-westerly direction from Black head,
and some parts of it are dry at low water ; its eastern edge bears W.S.W.
from the head.
ANCHORAGE. Vessels might ride out a strong breeze under Black
head in 4 fathoms water at the distance of 3 cables from the shore, par-
ticularly if the wind holds to the northward ; should, however, a gale come
on, or the wind draw round to the eastward, the sooner this anchorage is
quitted the better. Under these circumstances refuge will then be found
by running through Rees pass and anchoring close under Chimney island,
or in Tongsang harbour.
The COAST from Black head to Red bay, 10 miles to the north-
east, with the exception of one hill and two hillocks, is a sandy plain.
At the distance of 6 cables eastward of Tagau point is Hut islet and
some rocks, a portion of which are always uncovered. Spire islet, lying
2 miles to the north-east of Hut islet, has a remarkable square column on
it, and two low flat rocks to the westward. N. by E. one mile from Spire
is Cleft rock, surrounded by reefs, which render it dangerous to be
approached within the distance of 3 cables. Abreast Cleft islet is Crab
point (one of the few places where the natives showed a disposition to
attack the Plover during the survey of the whole coast). Knob rock,
which is steep-to, bears S.E. by E. E. 3 miles from Spire islet, and
East 6^ miles from Black head.
RED BAT will be found a fair roadstead in the North-east monsoon,
und its position may be readily known by the two high Black rocks off its
east point, as well as by the low red sand hills at the back of it. A reef,
having 3 fatlioms close to, extends north-westerly from the southern of the
two rocks, leaving a passage for small boats between it and the main at
low tide. N.W. by W. 7 cables from the southern Black rock is a reef
which covers at high water ; the anchorage lies between them, and the
water will shoal gradually after passing the Black rocks. At the head of
the bay there is a village and a creek, the entrance to which is dry at low
water.*
DIRECTION'S. In working up to Red bay from the southward, take
care to avoid the Shun reef, lying East 6 cables from a low hill on the
shore, and 3 miles to the south-westward of the anchorage, which may
be done by tacking when the Black rocks are in one with the point off
which they lie. When upon this reef the eastern Black rock bears
E. IE.
*See enlarged Plan of Red Bay, scale, m 1 inch, on Sheet 4, East Coast of China.
CHAP, in.] RED BAY. CHAPEL ISLAND. 97
In navigating this portion of the coast during the North-east monsoon
the wind will be found to hang to the northward from 2h. a.m. to lOh. a.m.
and in the eastern quarter the remaining period. Deeply laden vessels
will find it more advantageous to seek shelter in one of the harbours
or roadsteads above mentioned during a strong north-east wind, than to
keep underweigh, as ground can seldom be gained in consequence of the
depth of water.
The COAST from Cork point, the north-east point of Red bay,
trends N.E. l N. 18^ miles to Chin-ha point, and is steep-to, with the
exception of a reef off Cork point, and a sand spit with some rocks
on it extending in a southerly direction from House hill (a low hill
with a house on its summit) which bears N.W. by W. -| W. from Lamtia
island. An inlet runs a long way back, to the westward of House hill,
but it is shallow.
XiAMTXA and NOTCH ISLANDS Lamtia island, bearing N.E. 9 miles
from Cork point, is of basaltic formation, and its southern side rises
abruptly from the sea : a reef extends 7 cables to the N.W. from it.
Notch island, of similar formation, and with a rock awash off its south-
east point, lies N. b. W. 3 miles from Lamtia island.
CHAPEX, XSX.AND, in lat. 24 10' 18" N., long. 118 13^' E., lies
N.E. | N. 47 miles from the South East Brother, and S.S.E. ll miles
from the Chauchat rocks at the entrance of Amoy harbour. Its height is
about 200 feet, the whole of the island being nearly of the same elevation,
and it is perforated at its southern end ; there are also two remai'kable
mounds like chimneys on either end of the island. When this island bore
South, and about midway between it and the entrance to Amoy harbour,
Captain Ross, of the Indian Navy, passed over a sand-bank with 6 fathoms
water on it, but no less could be found.
MEROPE SKOAliS are between Chapel island and the coast. The
South Merope has only 5 feet on its shoalest part, at its southern
end, from which Chapel island bears N.E. by E. ^ E. 7| miles, and Lamtia
island N.W. b. W. 5 miles ; from thence it extends, with depths of 3 and
4 fathoms, nearly 5 miles in a N.E. direction. There are 2^ fathoms
about If miles to the westward of its shoalest part, and probably shoal
water extends to the southward, as its limits in that direction are
not defined ; it is said not to break except in heavy weather, or at very
low tide.
When approaching this shoal from the southward do not bring the high
land of Cork point to the southward of W. by S., while Chapel island is
[a] o
98 HONG KONG TO AMOY. [CHAP. in.
to the eastward of N.E. Chin-ha point N. by W., or Nantai Wushan
pagoda N.N. W. will lead eastward of the shoalest part.
The North Merope is 8 miles W. b. N. of Chapel island, and its
eastern edge bears N.E. from Lamtia island. This shoal is formed by a
number of Pinnacle rocks which show at half ebb, and have deep water
between them.
TIUGTAE BAY is 4 miles to the northward of the North Merope
shoal, and affords shelter for small vessels in the North-east monsoon. Its
vicinity may be easily known by a flat table head with three chimneys on
it, forming the eastern point of the bay, and the ruins of a walled town on
the hill above it. The pagoda of Nantai Wushan, 1,720 feet above the sea,
stands on the hills immediately at the back of this bay. The coast here
continues in a north-easterly direction 3 miles farther to Chin-ha point,
when it takes a sudden to the N.W., forming Amoy harbour.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, at the entrance of Chauan
bay at llh. Om., and springs rise 6^ feet ; and at the beach under Fall
peak in Tongsang harbour, and at Chimney island in Rees pass, at
llh.* 30m., and the rise is 12 feet. The flood tide enters Tongsaug
harbour at the rate of three-quarters of a knot per hour.
Off Jokako point, 4 days before the change of the moon, the ebb ran
4^ knots in one tide ; the two first hours being from the N.E. by E.,
and the last four from the N.E.
In Rees pass on October 25th, with a gale from the N.E., the ebb tide
ran from the N. by E. in all 12| miles ; there was no perceptible flood.
Also in October, the Awoota rock bearing S.W. ^ W. 3 miles, the 1st
hour of flood ran W.S.W. half a knot ; 2d hour, S.W. half a knot ;
3d hour, W.S.W. 1 knot ; 4th hour, W.S.W. 1 knot ; 5th hour, W.S.W.
half a knot ; and 6th hour, S.W. by W. half a knot. The first hour of
the ebb ran N.E. half a knot ; 2d hour, N.N.E. half a knot ; 3d hour
N.N.E. 1 knot ; 4th and 5th hours, N.N.E. a quarter of a knot.
Again, with Fall peak bearing W. by N. 7 miles ; the 1st two hours
flood ran S.S.E. 1^ knots ; and the 3d S.E. by E. 1 knot. The 1st hour
of ebb ran N.E. by N. 1 knot ; 2d hour, 2 knots ; 3d hour, N.N.E.
1^ knots ; 4th hour, N. by E. 1^ knots ; and the 5th hour, North 1 knot.
Another observation in Rees pass, the moon's age being 11 days, gave
the set of the ebb from the N.N.E., last hour North l knots ; and the
flood from the S.W. at the rate of half a knot per hour ; wind N.E.,
force 7.
At Red bay in October, the moon being 19 days old, the rise and fall
was 1 1 feet, aud the ebb ran W. by N. and W.N. W., the whole amount
of tide 21 knots. Flood, 1st hour, W.S.W. 1 knot : then E.S.E. for the
CHAP, in.] TINGTAE BAY. ENTRANCE TO AMOY HARBOUR. 99
remainder of the tide, whole amount 1^ knots. Again with the moon's
age 9 days : ebb ran North, and then N.W., 1 knot per hour, and the
flood E.N.E. half a knot.
With Lamtia islet, bearing W.S.W. 7 miles ; 6 days after the change
in December, the ebb made from the E.N.E. , then N.E., and for the last
three hours N.W. ; total amount in the tide, 3| knots. The flood came
from the S.S.W., then South ; total amount, 4^ knots.
Under Wu-seu island, at the entrance of Arnoy, on the 4th day of the
moon, the ebb came from the N.W. at the rate of 1^ knots : and the
flood from the S.S.E. at half a knot.. Between Wu-seu and the main
the tides are more rapid, and vessels should not attempt to pass.
WIT-SEW ISLAND, 300 feet high, is on the western side of the
entrance to Amoy outer harbour, and on its snmmit are three chimneys,
which are intended for alarm signals. The island is 1 miles long,
north and south, and near the middle only 2 cables broad. Its north-
east and south-east faces are steep cliffs, and there are three sandy bays
on its western side, and one on its eastern ; hi the northernmost bay on
the western side is a large village and the ruins of an ancient fort.
The opium vessels used to lie between this island and the island of
Wu-an to the westward of it, but the anchorage was found too confined,
and not so convenient of access as that under Tae-tan island ; it will be
prudent not to pass westward of Wu-seu, as the channels inside are only
partially surveyed.*
A rock, which is sometimes covered, lies between Wu-seu and
Chin-ha point, with that point bearing S. W., and Nantai Wushan
pagoda W.N.W.
The CHAUCHAT are a patch of three flat rocks nearly awash
at high tide, lying about half a mile eastward of Wu-seu. When on
them, the three chimneys on Wu-seu are in one with Nantai Wushan
pagoda W. f S. ; and by keeping Tae-pan point open northward of
Tsing-seu N.W. by W., it will lead outside or eastward of them,
should high tides and smooth water prevent their being seen. There
is a channel, half a mile wide, between these rocks and Wu-seu, but in
consequence of the chow-chow water there, it will be better to keep to
the eastward.
The CHIBT-TSEAO are two patches, covered at high water, lying
N.W. by N. half a mile from the north end of Wu-seu ; between
them and the main are several islets and half-tide rocks.
* -See Plan of Amoy Harbour, No. 1,767 f scale, m = 1 inch.
a 2
1 00 HONG KONG TO AMOY. [CHAP. in.
TSING-SETT is a table-itopped Island lying three quarters of a mile to
the north-west of the Chin-tseao : it rises precipitously from, the sea, and
forts are built upon its summit, which is 2oO feet above high water.
The entrance to Amoy outer harbour is between this island and Chih-seu,
8 cables to the north-east.
At the distance of 6 cables to the north-west of the Chin-tseao
and 2 cables to the southward of Tsing-seu, lies a rock, which only
shows at very low tides. To the westward of Tsing-seu are many sunken
rocks, on qpe of which the ship Blundell struck in 1850. Vessels should
therefore not use the channel between this latter island and the main.
-PAN SHOAL. The western side of Amoy outer harbour between
Tsing-seu and Tae-pan point, which has an islet off it and lies 4 miles to
the N.W. f W., is shoal and has several reefs in it ; but they will be
avoided when standing westward by keeping the pagoda on Ki-seu
island open north-east of Tae-pan point : to avoid the shoals on the
north-east side of the harbour, do not bring the north end of Seao-tan
to the southward of S.E. by E.
CKIKT-SEIT is a small islet, 60 feet high, lying N.E. ^ E. 8 cables
from Tsing-seu. Rocks extend in a southerly and an easterly direction
half a cable's length from this islet, and it is connected to two other
small islets, named Hwangkwa and Tao-sao, by a rocky bed which
blocks the passage. Foul ground extends N.W. 4 cables from Tao-sao,
and terminates in a reef which bears North half a mile from Chih-seu.
and W. S. from the north extreme of Seao-tan. A vessel will keep
north of this reef, by having the channel open between Seao-tan and
Tae-tan.
SEAO-TAN ISLAND, 6^ cables long, east and west, and 200 feet high,
has three chimneys on it, and a sandy bay on its northern side. It lies
to the E.N.E. of Hwangkwa, and the channel between, which is 3 cables
wide, is frequently used ; but as foul ground extends to the southward of
both islands, and shoal ground runs off 2 cables to the N.N.W. of
the west point of Seao-tan, a heavy or unhandy vessel had better use the
channel between Tsing-seu and Chih-seu. There is a signal station on
Seao-tan which communicates with Amoy.
TAB-TAN ISLAND, the highest of this group, and lying to the north-
east of Seao-tan, is about 8 cables long in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction,
with a low sandy isthmus in the centre : its east end is the highest (300
feet above the sea), and has a small circular watch-house and three
chimneys on it; its western end rises to a conical peak, on which is
CHAP. IIL] AMOY HARBOUR.
a small circular fort. The channel between this island and Seao-tan is
2 cables wide, but as vessels are likely to have baffling winds, it would
not be prudent for a stranger to use it.
It is said that since the survey of this locality in 1843 the soundings
on the bank westward of Tae-tan have much decreased, and that a vessel
drawing more than 12 feet must wait for high water to run through this
channel, as where the depth of 3^ and 4^ fathoms are marked in the
chart at 3 cables northward of Seao-tan, there are now only 2^ fathoms.
The rocks to the northward of Tae-tan also extend much farther
out, and two separate ones are visible at low Avater springs.* Between
Tae-tan and Amoy the channel is shoal under 2 fathoms ; but, as before
noticed, the foul ground on the north-eastern side of Amoy outer harbour
will be avoided by not bringing the north end of Seao-tan to the south-
ward of S.E. by E.
AMOY ISLAND, about 22 miles in circumference, occupies the northern
portion of the great bight between Chin-ha and Hu-i-tau points, in
the eastern portion of which is the island of Queiaoy and Hu-i-tau bay.
The city of Amoy stands on the south-west part of the island, abreast
the small island of Kulangseu, which affords protection to the inner
harbour. The traffic is considerable. In 1847, 117 vessels entered the
harbour, with an aggregate burthen of 16,494 tons ; and the value of
the imports, by British ships, duriug the same year, was 179,758/., by
foreign vessels 75,9761. ; of the exports in British ships 7,139/., in foreign
vessels 8,568/. The principal exports are, crockery ware, umbrellas, tea,
sugar, sugar-candy, paper, tobacco, camphor, and grass-cloth. Population
in 1847, 250,000.
The south point of Amoy is sandy, with several black rocks extending
2 cables from the shore. On the slope of the hill which forms the point
is a circular battery ; W. by S. 6 cables is a second battery, and between
the two at 3 cables from the shore, a half tide rock, which will be avoided
by a vessel of light draught by tacking before a cliff point with a
battery and three chimneys on it, comes in one with a sandy point
with a large stone (named Coruwallis Stone) at its south extreme, three
quarters of a mile to the north-west. From the cliff point the 3
fathoms line of soundings extends 2 cables from the shore, otherwise the
shore to the westward, which is a continuous sandy beach, is steep-to, and
the lead a good guide.
From Coruwallis Stone the shore trends rather more to the northward
for a quarter of a mile, where there is a creek dry at low water, and
* Captain Luard, H.M.S. Serpent, and Henry McAusIand, Master of H.M.S. Peynard,
1850.
102 HONG KONG TO AMOY. ("CHAP, m
at the back of the creek an extensive suburb, and an isolated hill, the
summit of which is a large mass of granite. N.W. W. three quarters of
a mile from the Stone are several rocks which cover at half tide, the
outermost lying l cables from the shore ; on the point from whence
they extend is a mass of granite. The city commences at this point and
stands very little above the sea level ; the houses extend down close to
the beach, on which the trading junks lie aground. The ridge of hills
upon this face of. the island do not rise above 600 feet. They are abrupt
and barren, with numerous large boulders of granite ; a square upright
mass of which, on the highest part of the western extreme of the ridge,
rises 528 feet above the sea, which is about the average height of the
chain. *
XTT:LANGSEU ISLAND lies off the south-west shore of Amoy, and the
channel between is 675 yards wide. The island is nearly 3 miles in cir-
cumference, and there are two distinct ridges upon it, which might be
separately defended, the highest point being 280 feet above the sea. The
island is principally of granite, and fresh water from wells is plentiful.
This island has detached rocks lying off nearly all the points ; there
are several that cover at high water off the north point, one of which,
with only 1-^ feet on it at low tide, lies N.N.W. ^ W., nearly 4 cables
from the point, with the north extreme of Watson island bearing
N.W. by W. f W., and Nantai Wushan pagoda South ; and foul ground
extends at least half a mile from the south-east point.
COKER ROCK, with only 4 feet on it, lies W. by N. N. not quite
6 cables from the Cornwallis Stone, and nearly 2 cables from the
beach. From the rock, Ki-seu pagoda is just open southward of the
rocks lying off the south extreme of Kulangseu, and a white beacon
erected on the east side of Kulangseu is in line with the western edge
of a whitewashed rock. There is another head with 10 feet on it lying
about 16 yards eastward of the 4 feet ; the rock open West of the beacon
leads to the westward of it, and open twice its breadth to the East, leads to
the eastward.*
A pinnacle rock, with only 12 feet on it and 4 and 5 fathoms close
around it at low water, lies 3 cables to the northward of the Coker,
with the flagst aff N.E. ^ N., and the white rock off Kulangseu
W. by S. \ S.
* A large stone, with a staff erected on it, has been placed on the Coker rock to mark
its position, but it seldom remains more than a few days. T. E. CoUingwood, Master of
H.M.S. Comus, 1857.
CHAP, in.] AMOY HARBOUR. 103
ANCHORAGE. The outer harbour of Amoy has extensive anchorage
in 7 to 16 fathoms, good holding ground, and unless vessels are badly
found it is not probable that any gale could hurt them. The usual
anchorage is to the southward of Cornwallis Stone ; a good berth for
a large ship is in 8 fathoms with the white beacon on the east side of
Kulangseu open South of the whitewashed rock N.W. by N. ; and the first
entrance of the sally-port in the fort opening North-west of Cornwallis
Stone N.E. by E. There is also good and safe anchorage in 7 to 17
fathoms in the channel on the west side of Kulangseu.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, in Amoy inner harbour at
12h. Om. The rise and fall of the tide from one day's observation, on the
full moon in September, was 14^ feet ; at this period, however, the night
tides exceeded the day by 2 feet. The change in the depth in all probability
three days after full and change exceeds 16 feet, which would be of infinite
importance to vessels requiring repairs ; particularly as sites for docks and
ample materials for making them are to be found upon the island of
Kulangseu, as well as in other parts of the harbour.
DIRECTION'S. When bound to Amoy from the southward, after
rounding the Lamock islands and the Brothers, steer about N.E. b. N. for
Chapel island, keeping between 10 and 12 miles off the coast to avoid
the South Merope shoal. The Nantai Wushan pagoda is a good land
mark by which the entrance of Amoy may be recognized when in the
neighbourhood of Chapel island, which may be passed close to on either
side, and from thence a N. b. W. ^ W. course will lead towards the
entrance of the harbour. As the Chauchat rocks are approached keep
Tae-pau point open North of Tsing-seu to pass to the eastward of them,
and from thence steer between Tsing-seu and Chih-seu into Amoy
outer harbour.
In approaching the harbour from the eastward give Dodd island a berth
of a mile, and after passing Leeo-lu head, which is steep-to, be careful
not to shut in the island with the head until Ki-seu island opens South of
Tae-tan island, W. by N. f N. to clear Quemoy spit. From thence steer
for Tsing-seu, keeping Tae-pan point open North of Tsing-seu to avoid
the Chauchat rocks.
The channel into the inner harbour, between Kulangseu and Amoy, is
so narrow, and sunken rocks lie off both its shores, that a stranger should
not attempt it without a pilot. In steering in keep the white beacon open
eastward of the whitewashed rock on the eastern side of Kulangseu, to
pass eastward of Coker rock. The best anchorage is between the small
islet off the city point and Hauseu island. The inner harbour, however,
may be reached without difficulty by passing through the channel west-
104 HONG KONG TO AMOY. [CHAP. m.
ward of Kulangseu, taking care to give Druid head, the south-west point
of the island, a berth of at least a cable's length, and recollecting that
shoal water extends half a mile from the main land on the opposite shore.
After passing Druid head keep well over towards Watson and Hauseu
islands, and do not steer to the eastward until clear of the spit extending
from the/north point of Kulangseu.
The channel around the island of Amoy is so narrow and winding that
directions would be useless ; the chart is the best guide. The bay of
Sungseu, on the north side of which the city of that name is built, runs
back 7 miles to the westward from Kulangseu ; it is, however, shoal, and
only navigable for small craft.
105
CHAPTER IV.
EAST COAST OF CHINA AMOY TO THE WHITE DOG ISLANDS,
INCLUDING THE PESCADORES.
VAKIATIOX 15' to 1 0' West in 1861.
xsiiAXTD is separated from Amoy by a channel from 5 to 7
miles wide, in the middle of which is Little Quemoy island. Between
Tae-tan island and Little Quemoy the channel is deep, but it is narrowed
by reefs.
The channel between Little Quemoy and Quemoy is half a mile wide.
To enter, bring the north-east point of Little Quemoy on a N. \ E.
bearing, and steer for it until the pagoda on Quemoy bears West, then
haul to the N.E. by N. for a mile and anchor in about 9 fathoms secure
from all winds. Vessels drawing less than 15 feet may borrow over on
the Little Quemoy shore.
QITEMOV BANK, extends 3 miles to the southward from the west
point of Quemoy island, and several patches, on which the sea breaks
heavily, dry on it at low water. It is steep-to, and the lead will give no
warning. Its western edge bears S.S.W. \ W. from the west point of
Quemoy ; its southern end, named Quemoy spit, bears S. by W. ^ W. from
the pagoda, and W. by S. \ S. from Leeo-lu head.
A good mark to lead southward of Quemoy spit, is to keep Ki-sue
pagoda open southward of Tae-tan island bearing W. by N. N. ; care
must however be taken not to mistake the north division of Tae-tan for
the island itself, for the pagoda seen over the low sandy isthmus between
the north and south division of the island will lead across the bank ; a
mistake easily made.
iU BAY. The south-western face of Quemoy is composed of
low sand hills. From the west point of the island the coast trends S.E. \ E.,
3 miles to the south-west point, and from thence N.E. by E. 5 miles to
Leeo-lu bay. Detached rocks extend 8 cables eastward of the south-
west point, and great care must be taken to avoid them in foggy weather,
as the tides here are so uncertain in their direction.
This bay is said to afford good shelter from N.W., round northerly, to
East, Leeo-lu head (a low peninsula) will be known by a high pi-ak
106 AMOY TO WHITE DOG ISLANDS. [CHAP. nr.
rising 856 feet above the level of the sea immediately northward of it.
The head may be rounded within a cable's length, and a berth picked up
according to the vessel's draught, taking care to avoid a coral shoal on
which the Dutch bark Justina grounded when running into this bay in
1856. It is said to be about a cable in extent, with only 9 feet on it at
low water, and lies with Leeo-lu head bearing E. by S. \ S., and Leeo-lu
hill N. by E. \ E.
HU-I-TAIT BAT, formed between the eastern side of Quemoy and the
mainland, will afford good shelter in the North-east monsoon. Hu-i-tau
point, the eastern point of entrance, is 80 feet high, and on the hills north
of it is a small fort, to the northward of which is a remarkable knob,
215 feet high. On the north-west side of the bay are two remarkable
hills, which will serve to establish a vessel's position when in this vicinity.
West peak, the highest of the two, is 1,714, and East peak, 1,390 feet
above the sea. There is no doubt in the North-east monsoon that, besides
the tide, vessels must calculate on a southerly set, and the same, but in a
contrary direction, will most likely take place in the other season of the
year ; this set probably accounts for several vessels having mistaken this
bay for the harbour of Amoy : the following remarks, however, will
point out the difference in the approach :*
Dodd island, in lat. 24 26' 16" N., long. 118 29' 4'/ E., may be known
from Chapel island by a reef extending 3 cables to the N.N.E. of it, and
on which the sea always breaks ; the former also is uneven, gradually
sloping to the eastward. Chapel island rises suddenly, and there is a
difficulty in saying which is the highest part ; it is 8 miles from the
nearest land, whereas Dodd island is but 3 miles. The distance from
Chapel island to the south point of Quemoy is 11 miles, but from Dodd
island to Hu-i-tau point is only 5 miles. The rocks off the south end of
Quemoy are peaked ; the reef off Hu-i-tau point is flat. There are two
pagodas on Quemoy point, which bear N. W. by W. and S.E. by E. of each
other ; on Hu-i-tau point is a small obelisk ; and the land turns suddenly
to the northward.
At l miles eastward of Hu-i-tau point is a sunken rock, on which 2|
fathoms were found, but as in all probability there is less water its locality
should be avoided. From the shoalest water obtained, the obelisk on
Hu-i-tau point bore N.W. b. W., Dodd island S.W. W., and Scrag point
Reefs N.E., \vhich break heavily in bad weather, project 3 cables in a
southerly dir ction from the point, and westerly a quarter of a mile from
the first point inside the bay.
* See Plan of Hu-i-tau and Chimmo Bays, No. 1,959 ; scale, m = 1 inch.
CHIP, iv.] HUI-TAU BAY. 107
Water may be obtained under the fort northward of Hu-i-tau
point.
OYSTER xsiiET and ROCK. Oyster islet is a low flat rock bearing
N.N.W. |- W. 2 miles from Hu-i-tau point. Oyster rock, which is awash
at low water, lies S. W. 9 cables from the islet, with the obelisk on
Hu-i-tau point bearing S.E. by E. f E. ; the fort E.N.E., and the summit
of Flak island in line with the left slope of a conical hill at the head of
the bay, W. by N. f N.
THAXiiA BANTK occupies a central position in Hu-i-tau bay, and its
east end bears W. ^ S. about 2 miles from Hu-i-tau point, and N. b. E. ^ E.
from Dodd island ; from thence it extends to the north-westward beyond
the White rocks in the centre of the bay. The eastern end has 1| fathoms
on it ; the western end dries. The north-east part of the bank is steep-to,
the lead giving no warning.
DODD XiEDGE, bearing from E. b. N. to E.N.E. nearly 1 miles from
Dodd island, has on it two patches of rock, one of which breaks and the
other has 6 feet over it at low water ; from the eastern edge of the ledge
Scrag point, the east extreme of the land to the northward, bears N.E. N.
There are two rocks, one with 3 feet, and the other with 6 feet on it,
lying North three quarters and a mile respectively from Dodd island,
and at half a mile N.W. by W. W. from the island, is a reef showing
at half tide.
TIDES. In Hu-i-tau bay it is high water, full and change, at 12h.
15m. ; springs rise 16 feet.
DIRECTIONS Vessels requiring shelter during the North-east
monsoon in this bay, will find good anchorage on its eastern side
between Oyster islet and Oyster rock, taking care to avoid the latter
which only shows at low water springs. There is also anchorage
westward of Oyster islet in 5 fathoms, but the islet should not be brought
to the southward of East, as a rocky ledge with only 6 feet on it lies
7 cables to the north-west of the islet.
Vessels requiring shelter in a southerly wind can run up the bay to
the northward of the white rock and Thalia bank, and find anchorage in
5^ fathoms at half a mile to the north-east of Flak island. To avoid the
northern edge of Thalia bank, do not bring Flak island to the northward
of W. by N. |N.; and by keeping Oyster islet open northward of the
fort the bank will be avoided which extends from the north side of
the bay.
There is a channel between the Thalia bank and Quemoy, but the ground
is foul with several reefs ; and it should not be attempted without some
108 AMOY TO WHITE DOG ISLANDS. [CHAI-. iv.
previous knowledge. To clear the south end of the Thalia bank, keep
the chimney on the north end of Quemoy on a W. by N. f N. bearing
until the White rock bears North, then steer N.W. until the rock bears
N.E. b. E., when shape a course to pass half a mile from the points of the
bays on the Quemoy shore.
The channel north of Quemoy has a depth of 8 feet in it, and there-
fore might be used at high tide ; but no vessel should attempt it without
a pilot.
The COAST from Hu-i-tau point trends 9 miles to the north-oast
to Chimmo point, and is low, the sand hills rising about 300 feet. Near
the coast are two walled towns, the southernmost of which has a small
pagoda near it. None of the bays afford shelter. H.M.S. Reynard tried
that under Scrag point, but was compelled to use her screw to get out
of it.
CHZ1MCMCO BAY* is between Chimmo and Yungning points, and its
locality will be easily recognized when approaching from the eastward
by Mount Kusau and its pagoda, which is 760 feet above the sea, and
1 J miles from the beach on the north side of the bay. The mount is the
most conspicuous land on this part of the coast, and a fine land-mark in
hazy weather. The shores of the bay, although barren, are very populous;
the inhabitants bear a bad character, and it was here that the crews of
the opium vessels were attacked in 1847. The walled town of Yungning
stands on the northern shore.
On the south side of the bay, off Chimmo point, are two islets, named
Sour and Pagoda, the channels between which and between Pagoda and
Chimmo point are full of rocks. N. \ W. 6 and 7 cables' lengths
respectively from Sour islet, are the two Chimmo rocks, which show at
low water. When on them the east end of Pagoda islet is in one with
Flat reef, bearing S. \ W. To pass northward of these rocks bring
a large tree,* which stands half a mile from the beach in the north-
west side of the bay, open westward of a remarkable shoulder peak 3^
miles at the back of it, bearing N.W., and when Yungning islet (off
Yungning point) is in one with Junk head (the first point to the north-
east of it), the vessel will be to the westward of them ; from these rocks
to Yungning islet the distance is 1^ miles.
This bay can only be termed a roadstead, and a dangerous one in the '
southerly monsoon. Yungning islet is steep-to, but a reef lies W. | S.
'.\ cables from it, and covers at high water. Within the bay the depths
shoal gradually, but vessels drawing 15 feet and upwards must not bring
Ynngning islet to the southward of E. f S.
* This tree could not be made out. Henry McAusland, Master, H.M.S. Reynard, 1850.
CHAP, iv.] CH1MMO BAY. CHIN-CHU HARBOUR. 1 09
TIDES. It is high Avater, full and change, in Chimmo bay at lOh. 20m.
and springs rise 16 feet. The tide sets with considerable velocity along
the coast, between Hu-i-tau and Chimmo bays ; but both the period and
the rate vary considerably with the monsoon : the state of the tide will
be known by the numerous fishing nets moored off the coast.
The COAST from Chimmo bay trends N.E. by N. 8 miles to Chungchi
point, the southern point of entrance to Chin-chu harbour. Several
sandy bays occur between these points, and afford shelter to junks,
but from the number of rocks in and about them they cannot be recom-
mended for square-rigged vessels. At 1^ miles southward of Chungchi
point is an islet with a building on it something like a bell.
CHIN-CHIT HARBOUR. Chungchi point is about 400 feet above the
sea ; sunken rocks extend 2 cables from it to the south-eastward. The
entrance to the harbour is about 10 miles wide betwen this point and the
town of Tongbu to the north-east, but its shores rapidly approach each
other, so that its proper entrance may be considered to be not more than
4^ miles wide between Chungchi point and the point North of it, and
between which are the islands Tatoi and Seatoi, with the Hewen rocks,
above water, lying half a mile S.W. of the latter ; these all lie in a
N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction, and between them are the navigable chan-
nels to the Lockyung river entrance. Seatoi is a low barren islet ;
Tatoi, 358 feet high, is the highest land in this neighbourhood. The
Seatoi bank, with 2^ fathoms on it, extends about 2 miles to the eastward
of Seatoi island ; and an extensive sand, named the Boot, runs west-
ward from Tatoi island to the entrance of the river.*
PILOTS Chin-chu harbour is the only place where pilots can be
obtained for Hai-tan strait or Hungwha sound, and it is advisable that
all vessels bound there should take one, as the navigation is very intricate.
PASSAGE ISLAND lies N.E. f N. 4| miles from Chungchi point,
and to the eastward of it are three rocks, which cover at high water : the
outermost rock bears E. f S., half a mile from the island. A ledge also
extends from the south-west point of the island, the outer rock of which
is H cables from high water mark.
WHITE ROCKS N.E. l N. about half a mile from Passage island are
two White rocks, which are always partly uncovered; the channel
between them is not safe. At three quarters of a mile northward of
the White Rocks is Talikut, an island at high water with a largo toAvn on
* See Plan of Cbin-cbu Harbour, No. 1,769 ; scale, m = U inches.
1 1 AMOY TO WHITE DOG ISLANDS. [CHAP. iv.
it, and between them is a sunken rock, from which the highest part of the
northern White rock bears S. by W. ^ W. half a mile, and the summit of
Tatoi W. by S. S.
ROCK, with only 6 feet water over it, lies E. by S. southerly not
quite half a mile from the highest part of Seatoi, with Tatoi summit
bearing N. b. W. W., and Passage island N.E. by E. -| E.
TAHEEN ROCK is 2 cables to the S. b. E. of the Lynx, and shows
at low water ; when upon it, Choho pagoda bears W. N., and Tatoi
summit N. b. W. W. The bottom between the Taheen and Hewen
rocks is rocky and uneven, and in several places there are only 6 feet at
low water ; a channel through, however, is sometimes used by the opium
vessels when the wind is too far to the eastward to permit them to fetch
between the Lynx and Seatoi ; their leading mark is the highest part of
the Hewen in line with Choho pagoda bearing W. ^ N.
MID-CHANNEL REEF. Between Seatoi island and the Hewen rocks,
rather more than a cable's length from the south-west point of the former,
and a good half cable from the latter, is Mid-channel reef, three heads of
which show at low water springs ; it is about 2 cables in circumference,
and from its centre the summit of Tatoi is in line with the west summit
of Seatoi. Reefs also extend half a cable's length from Seatoi on its
South, S.W., and eastern sides ; thus rendering the channel between this
island and the reef exceedingly awkward to a stranger.
CBOHO REEF. A sandspit extends nearly l miles in an easterly
direction from Choho pagoda, and from a reef lying on its northern
edge, the pagoda bears S.W. f W., and is distant 6 cables, and the
summit of Pisai island W. by N. ^ N.
OTA. ROCK, which covers at high water, lies East half a mile from
Pisai, and N.W. \ N. from Choho pagoda.
TIDES __ It is high water, full and change, at Pisai island in Chin-elm
harbour at 12h. 25m. ; springs rise 17 feet.
DIRECTIONS. Kusau pagoda, 760 feet above the sea (page 180),
is an excellent mark for recognizing the locality of Chin-chu harbour
when approaching it from the southward. From a position about 1|
miles to the eastward of Chungchi point, steer North until Choho
pagoda opens northward of Seatoi island bearing W. S., when it
should be steered for on that bearing, and it will lead along the northern
edge of Seatoi bank. The ship Omega, drawing 11 feet, struck upon
a bank 1 miles to the eastward of Seatoi, but not less than 2
CHAP, iv.] CHIN-CHU HARBOUR. Ill
fathoms were found upon the Seatoi bank in March 1844 ; the southerly
monsoon may, however, cause the sand to accumulate.
If running for the harbour from the northward, and intending to anchor
to the southward of the Boot sand, after passing about three quarters of
a mile south of Passage island steer in with Choho pagoda W. f S.,
until the peak on Tatoi island bears N. b. W. ^ W., and the eastern
end of Seatoi island S.S.W. ^ W., then haul to the southward, and
pass a cable's length to the eastward of Seatoi. Round the south side
of Seatoi at half a cable's length, and when its western summit is in one
with the highest part of Tatoi the vessel will be in the narrowest part of
the channel, which is here barely a cabje across.
Having passed Seatoi a W.N.W. course will lead to the anchorage
above Pisai islet in mid-channel. By keeping this islet to the westward
of W. by N. ^ N. the reef off Choho pagoda will be avoided ; and the
southern edge of the Boot will be cleared by not bringing Seatoi to the
southward of E. by S. f S. ; the outline of this bank, however, is generally
visible. The opium vessels run in between the Lynx and Taheen rocks
with the south extremes of Seatoi island and Ota rock in line with north
extreme of Pisai. The anchorage is North about 1^- or 2 miles from
Pisai, where the channel is 3 cables wide.
If intending to anchor northward of the Boot sand steer to pass
northward of Tatoi island, and if drawing less than 15 feet a vessel
may run up until Choho pagoda bears S. b. W. ^ W., where she will
have smooth water in any weather, as the Boot forms an excellent
breakwater. The north edge of the Boot will be avoided by keeping
the White rocks to the southward of East. There is a sunken rock
lying 1-L cables from the northern shore, and N. b. W. ^ W. from the
summit of Tatoi. There is good anchorage in north-east or northerly
gales in 3^ and 4 fathoms, with the summit of Tatoi bearing S. E. b. S. ;
but in a south-west gale the former anchorage is to be preferred. The
Boot may be crossed by a vessel of light draught at high tide, but it
should be sounded first, as the sands shift.
The entrance of the small river, leading to the town of Chin-chu,
bears W. by N. f N. 3 miles from Pisai islet. On the left bank near
the entrance is a circular fort, 4 or 5 miles above which is the town
standing on the north bank of the river. The channels to it are shoal
and intricate, and the large junks have to wait in the neighbourhood
of Pisai for tide before they can cross the flats, which are covered with
artificial oyster beds.
PYRAMID POINT, at 3 miles eastward of Tongbu, is the southern
point of entrance to Port Matheson, and when approaching it on a
112 AMOY TO WHITE DOG ISLANDS. [CHAP. iv.
westerly bearing, it appears a bold black face of land, not in any wajt
representing its name ; bnt on a northerly bearing, or inside the point, it
cannot be mistaken.
The Pyramid rock is connected with the point at low water, and to the
S.E. of it is a rock which never covers. To the eastward of Pyramid
rock are several reefs, from the outermost of which the Pyramid bear?
S.W. by W. | W. 6 cables, the highest part of the land forming the north
side of Port Matheson N. by E., and a cliff head at the head of the pro-
montory (extending south-westerly from the above hills) is in line with
a remarkable cone in the bay N. by W. ^ W.
ANCHORAGE Vessels requirifig anchorage in the North-east monsoon
will find it in the first bay westward of Pyramid point, where they will
be sheltered to the eastward by the reef of rocks, mostly above water, ex-
tending south-east from the point, and forming a good breakwater : caro
must, however, be taken to avoid a sunken rock lying South a cable's
length from the first point eastward of the walled city of Tongbu.
PORT MATHESON, called by the Chinese Gulai, is the next inlet
to the north-east of Chin-chu, the isthmus near the city of Tongbu
being only a mile across. The port is 4 miles wide at entrance, and will
afford tolerable shelter to vessels of about 12 feet draught if the wind
be to the northward of East ; but it is only a roadstead, and that a bad one
in the southerly monsoon. There are no dangers in it except a rock lying
North 4 cables from the largest islet on the southern shore.
MEZCHEU SOUND, the next inlet north of Port Matheson, is 6 miles
across at the entrance, which' may be recognized by the Ninepin rock,
which lies nearly in mid-channel. A reef extends South from the
Ninepin, and at the distance of a mile is a cluster of rocks, one of Avhich,
Square rock, does not cover at high tide ; from thence the reef extends
south-westerly 1^ cables, and its outer part dries at low water. A large
spar* is moored about 1^ miles to the south-west of Square rock.
East, 6 cables from the Ninepin, is a flat patch of rocks awash at high
water, and between this patch and Rogues point is good anchorage in the
North-east monsoon. H.M.S. Plover rode out a gale to the westward
of the Ninepin, Avithout much strain upon the cable ; but with an
uneasy sea. Anchorage was therefore preferred under Rogues point ;
but since that period H.M.S. Scout found a rock here which renders
this anchorage more difficult of approach. It lies midway between the
Ninepin and the extreme of Rogues point, bearing from the former
* H.M.S. Pique stood into this sound in August 1858, but the spar could not be seen.
CHAP, iv.] PORT MATHESON. MEICHEN SOUND. SORREL ROCK. 113
E. by S. | S., and from the mound at the end of the sandy isthmus con-
nected with Rogues point, South. H.M.S. Comus, in August 1856,
anchored in 8i fathoms with the Ninepin bearing South, Rogues point
S.E. | E., and a small white rock off Meichen village E. N. ; but it was
considered an unsafe anchorage during the southerly monsoon, and many
rocks were seen in the sound, which are not noticed in the chart.
N. by E. | E., one mile from the Ninepin, is a rock which shows at low
water, and from it the highest part of Rogues point bears S.E. by E. E.
There is a passage between this rock and the Ninepin, but rocks extend a
cable's length from the latter. Rogues point may be approached without
fear except on its east side, where there is a reef lying rather less than a
cable's length from the shore ; a depth of 3^ and 4 fathoms will be found
at the distance of 3 cables from the sandy beach. One and a half miles
South of Rogues point is a patch with 4| fathoms on it.
Inner Harbour. In the southerly monsoon vessels will find a good
harbour to the north-west of Saddle island, which bears N."W. by N. 3
miles from the Ninepin. In approaching it, pass southward of the south
islet off Saddle island, and haul to the northward round the western islet,
giving it a berth of a cable's length at high water to avoid a ledge. The
ground is very uneven hereabouts, and there are only 1\ fathoms water at
a mile W.N.W. of the western islet.*
N. b. E., one mile from Saddle island, is a low Cliff islet, from the west
point of which a sand bank extends If miles to the north-west ; the south
peak of Saddle island kept eastward of S.E. b. S. will lead westward of
it. When Mound peak (which is on the mainland, and 3 miles northward
of Saddle island, with a walled town and pagoda near it) bears East a
vessel will be to the northward of this bank, and can haul in towards the
town. W. by N. \ N., 2^ miles from Mound peak, is a knoll with only
6 feet over it.
The junks use the channel between Mound peak and Cliff islet, and
also pass between Mound peak and Meichen island. The former channel
is deep, but requires personal knowledge ; the latter is strewn with rocks,
and in some places has not a greater depth than 9 feet. The sound runs
back 10 miles to the northward of Mound peak, forming narrow isthmuses
across to Pinghai bay and Hungwha sound.
TIDES. In Meichen sound it is high water, full and change, at
12h. 30m.; springs rise 17 feet.
SORHEX. BOCK, 60 feet high, bears E. by N. 3| miles from Rogues
point. A rock lies three-quarters of a cable's length southward of it.
* See Chart, East Coast of China, Sheet 5, No. 1,761 ; scale, d = 14 inches.
[C.]
114 AMOY TO WHITE DOG ISLANDS. [CHAP. iv.
BAT, the next inlet north-east of Meichen sound, is 6^ miles
wide at entrance, between the Rowan islands and Ping point, and carries
a depth of 5 to 3 fathoms. Ping rock, 90 feet high and conical shaped,
lies 4 cables to the southward of the latter point, and bears N.E. b. N.
9 miles from the Sorrel rock ; a sunken rock lies S.W. by W. a quarter
of a mile from it.
The anchorage in this bay is in 3 fathoms, off the town of Pinghai, with
the Ping rock bearing S.E. b. E. At 5 miles westward of the anchorage
is a high range of hills, one of the peaks of which, named Marlin Spike,
will form a good guide for this part of the coast. The bay runs back past
the foot of the Marlin Spike range, but is shoal, there being seldom more
than 2 fathoms to the westward of the range.
Reefs extend nearly a mile from the coast to the northward of the Ping
rock.
Z.OTTTZ ROCK lies E.S.E. about 5 miles from the Ping rock, and
between them, at If miles from the Loutz, are two sunken rocks, named
Loutz shoal, from which the Ping is irt line with Marlin Spike peak
bearing N.W. by W. W., and the islet lying north-east of the Loutz
is in one with the South Yit E. f N. There is a rock which shows
at half tide, lying N.N.W. 2 cables from the above islet, and another
S. f W. 8 cables from the islet, and East from the highest part of
the Loutz.
OCKSEU ISLANDS. The Ockseu or Wokeu group consists of three
islets, the centre one being a barren rock joining the eastern island. The
western island, the largest, is in lat. 24 59' N., long. 119 27' E., and
elevated between 200 and 300 feet above the sea. It is round-topped
with smooth sides, and bears from the Sorrel rock E. by S.^ S. 15^ miles*
and from the South Yit S. b. W. f W. 10 miles.* The steam-vessel
Nemesis, drawing 5 feet, anchored under the eastern island, which is low,
rugged, and sandy, with a large fishing village on it, and detached rocks
off its east and west points. It is doubted, however, if there is shelter
sufficient in a breeze for a vessel of greater draught.
X.AIK-YXT ISLAND, the southern and largest of the archipelago called
the Eighteen Yits, is 7 miles long in an E.S.E. and W.N.W. direction, and
fronts the deep and extensive gulf named Hungwha sound. The eastern
peak, High Cone, 565 feet above the sea, and the highest point of the
island, is in lat. 25 12' N., long. 119 35' E.
* A strong tide ripple, or reef, appeared to break about l miles W.N.W. of the
western Ockseu island. Commander J. C. D. Hay, H.M.S. Columbine, 1848.
CHAP, iv.] PINGHAI BAY. LAM-YIT ISLAND. HUNGWHA SOUND. 115
The south point of the island is a bold table land, off which and con-
nected at low water is South Yit islet, to the north-west of which will be
found a snug and excellent anchorage in the North-east monsoon. On
rounding, give the South Yit a berth of a quarter of a mile and then haul
up into the bay, being prepared to anchor directly the water shoals. N.W.,
2 miles from the South Yit, is a flat rock which is always above water; and
S. b. E. 4 cables from this rock, is a reef awash at low tide. This is the
only danger in the bay, and it will be avoided by keeping within l miles
of the South Yit, should the vessel not fetch up into smooth water after
rounding it.
I.AM-YIT CHANNEL is to the westward of Lam-yit island, and a
vessel proceeding through it towards Hungwha sound from the anchorage
on the south side of Lam-yit, must be careful on the flood to steer well to
the south-west to avoid a sand-bank extending 2^- miles in a southerly
direction from the west point of Lam-yit. From its southernmost ed-e,
in 2f fathoms, the South Yit bore E. f S.; its western edge will be avoided
by keeping Lam point (the west point of the island, which will be known
by its three chimneys) to the eastward of North.
H.M.S. Plover examined this bank three different times, and on each
occasion found a change. On one occasion a passage was discovered between
it and the point; the outline of the bank, however, may be detected by dis-
coloured water. On the western side of the channel there is also a rocky
patch of If fathoms, the eastern edge of which bears S. b. W. 2 miles
from Clam islet (the largest islet between Lam-yit and the main) ; from
its southern edge, Lam point bore E. b. N.
ANCHORAGE The Plover rode out a strong N.E. gale between Lam
point and Clam islet ; but better shelter will be found to the southward of
Lam point, where the junks anchor. The outer rock off the point always
shows, and may be rounded close to ; but it must not be brought to the
westward of N.N. W., as the water shoals suddenly, and there is a sunken
rock in the bay at 6 cables to the southward of it. The best position is
as close up under the point as the vessel's draught will permit. There is
anchorage for vessels of large draught in 4 or 5 fathoms, at 1^ miles to
the northward of the point.
HUNGWHA SOUND. Besides Lam-yit island, which, as already stated,
fronts Hungwha sound, there are many islands and rocks within the sound
bordering its shores, the principal ones being near its entrance points. The
only passages that must be used to enter it are, the Lam-yit and Hungwha
channels, and Hai-tan strait.
DIRECTIONS If bound through the Lam-yit channel for the entrance
of the Hungwha river, which flows into the western part of Hungwha
H 2
116 AMOY TO WHITE DOG ISLANDS. [CHAIMV.
sound, steer northerly 7 miles from Lam point, when the vessel will be
one mile to the northward of Knob island, and should then steer for
Pitew point, which bears N.W., 7 miles from the Knob. A batch of
rocks lies to the north-west of Knob island, the eastern one of which
bear N. b. W. 8 cables from the island, and the north-westernmost
JST.W. ^ W. If miles ; a part of them always show. There is another
patch off Pitew point, the -south-east end of which bears E.S.E. 2 miles
from the south-east corner of the fort. There is good anchorage in
6 fathoms with the corner of the fort on Pitew point bearing E.N.E.
The entrance to Hungwha river, leading to the town, bears W. b. S.
from Pitew point ; the depth shoals to 6 feet at low water at 5 miles
from the fort. In 1844 there was a piratical establishment on the main,
S.W. from Pitew point.
A vessel leaving Hungwha sound and intending to pass northward
of Lam-yit island should use the channel north of the Passage islands,
which are three in number, and bear N.N.E. 5 miles from Lam point.
Between Lam point and these islands is Cliff island, in the vicinity of
which are several reefs, rendering the channel between it and Lam-yit,
and between it and the Passage islands, precarious. A ledge extends
2 cables in a westerly direction from the south-west point of the west
Passage island.
The channel to the northward of the Passage islands* is 4 cables wide,
and on its northern side is a rock, with a reef, which shows at low water,
lying 1^ cables to the westward of it. North of the rock 1^ cables is a
small islet ; and 4 cables north of the islet is Rugged island.
The north-east Passage island is a bold bluff, steep-to on its north
side ; from thence a vessel may steer to pass either north or south of
White island, which bears East 4^ miles from the Passage islands.
If passing south of this island take care to avoid three rocks,
named the Hung, which cover at first quarter flood and bear S. b. W.
1^ miles from it. E. b. N. 2 miles from White island is the southern
edge of a reef extending three-quarters of a mile from Kerr island ;f
having passed which, haul to the northward, and work up inside Chim
island, to the westward of which there are no dangers, except a rock
at the entrance of Vangan inlet, which may be avoided by keeping
1^ cables from the. shore. Here vessels will have smooth water
* H.M.S. Salamander encountered a frightful race and chow-chow water in this
channel, November 1851.
j- The reef on the main, bearing E. b. N. from White island, is very dangerous, and
extends nearly 2 miles off shore ; it is quite covered an hour after low water. There is
good anchorage in the bay to the N.E. of the reef. Commander J. D. Hay, H.M.S.
Columbine, 1848.
CHAP, iv.] HUNGWHA SOUND. - HUNGWHA CHANNEL.
protected from the easterly swell by Chim island. On the south point of
Vangan inlet there is a walled town and pagoda.
is to the north-east of Lam-yit island, and
its southern side is bounded by the Eighteen Yits, and its northen side
by Sentry, Reef, Sand, and Chim islands.* On no account ought vessels
to stand in among the Yits, as the ground is very uneven. Triangle
Yit, with a reef to the eastward of it, lies 1^ miles to the S.E. of the
High Cone peak on Lam-yit island. Cap Yit, the south-easternmost of
the group, lies E.N.E. 4 miles from High Cone Peak ; and 2 miles S.E.
from Cap Yit is a group of low rocks, named Scattered Yits, some of
which are always above water. Double Yit, lies N.E. l miles from Cap
Yit, and the channel between it and Sentry island is 3 miles wide. N.N.E.
4 miles from Double Yit there is a remarkable white island, named Sand
island, with sandy beaches and detached hills.
Chim island, the highest island in this locality, rises with sloping sides
into two peaks, one of which, 640 feet above the sea, has on it three
chimneys, the usual pirate signal along the coast of the Fu-kyen
province. At 3 miles to the S.E. of Chim island and 1^ miles northward
of Reef island are four rocks,-) 1 with reefs interspersed, called Chim
bank.
DIRECTION'S __ Entering the Hungwha channel from the eastward,
pass between Double Yit and Sentry island, and to the westward of Sand
island and the rocky islets on its north-west face, off which there is
anchorage, should daylight or the tide fail ; but the best shelter is off
Station island, to the northward of Chim island. On no account
whatever pass between Sand, Sentry, Reef, and Chim islands, as this
locality has not been sufficiently examined, and beware of the reefs to the
eastward of Reef island.
HAI-TAN ISLAND. This large and irregular shaped island lies near
the mainland between the parallels of 25 24' and 25 40' N. Its
* A rock, small and steep-to, with only a few feet water over it, is said to lie in
Hungwha channel, nearly midway between Vangan point and the N.E. Yit, with Vangan
pagoda bearing N. b. E., and White island W. J N. The Master of the opium vessel who
discovered this danger, sounded on it with a boathook. There are also many dangers
between Hungwha sound and Hungwha channel, and the chart of this part is not strictly
to be relied on ; for instance, the Cliffy islands and North Yit do not exist ; there is
but one Cliffy island with rocks detached off its south-east part, which may be the
south-west Cliffy island marked on the chart. There are two dangerous rocks, awash at
half tide, between Cliffy island and Red Yit, in line with the former and a little to the
northward of the latter, and directly in the way of navigation. The Hung rocks are
somewhat out of position, being more to the eastward of Bed Yit. Charles G. Johnston,
Master of H.M.S. Bittern, 1856.
f The chart only shows two.
118 AMOY TO WHITE DOG ISLANDS. [CHAP. iv.
northern part is high, the peak of the Kiangshan hills rising 1,420 feet
above the level of the sea, while the eastern and western shores are
low, and indented by deep sandy bays. Numerous small islands and
rocks occupy Hai-tan strait, the channel between the island and the
coast, and although it is not to be recommended, being very intricate, yet
the junks invariably use it ; one was found lying there, having been
detained 27 days waiting for an opportunity to get out at the northern
end.*
Hai-tan point, the south extreme of Hai-tan island, is a rugged, sandy
headland, with large boulders sticking up here and there. Off the point
are several rocks a little above high water, and a sunken rock lies
7 cables eastward of them, and nearly 6 cables from the shore. The
best mark to avoid this rock is not to haul into the South-east entrance
of Hai-tan strait until the rocks off Hai-tan point bear E.N.E. Station
island is 3^ miles to the north-west of this point, and the south coast of
Hai-tan, between, is shoal with detached reefs, and should not be
approached within a long mile. The reef lying to the westward of
Station island is covered at high tides.
From Hai-tan point the south-east coast of the island trends N.E. by E.
6^ miles to Hae head, and between these points is a deep sandy bay,
with several detached rocks, the most remarkable of which, Trite
island, forms in three peaks. S. f E. 2 miles from this island is South
reef, portions of which are visible unless the tides are very high, and
the water smooth ; from it Chim island bears W. by S. and Turnabout
island N.E. by E. | E.
Between Hae head and Tan point, 7 miles to the N. b. E. is Hai-tan
bay, a deep sandy bight, with numerous rocks both above and below
water. Tan point, which is a low cliff with a mound at the back of
it, forms the south extreme of Kwing bay, and at 1 miles to the east-
ward of it are the Tan rocks, some of which are always visible. Kwing
island lies a mile to the northward of Tan point, and reefs extend in a
south-easterly direction a mile from its eastern side. The channel between
the island and the point is much obstructed by reefs at its western end,
and the swell rolls home to the Hai-tan shore. Between Kwing and
Hai-tan is another islet ; but the tide rushes through these channels with
such velocity that they ought never to be taken.
DIRECTIONS. A vessel approaching the south-east entrance to Hai-
tan strait from the northward, after rounding Hae head, will avoid the
South reef by passing about half a mile to the southward of Trite island.
Junks occasionally take shelter under Hae head, and it is said that some
* See Plan of Hai-tan Strait, No. 1,985 ; .scale, m = 1 inch
CHAP, iv.] HAI-TAN STRAIT.
vessels have done so in the North-east monsoon ; it will, however be
found much exposed should the wind haul to the southward of East.
If entering from the southward pass about a mile to the eastward of
Chim bank, and when the northernmost of the rocks bears W.S.W. one
mile, steer about N.W. b. W. until Junk Sail rock bears North, to avoid
a sand spit which extends from the point north-west of Station island, and
then haul up for Junk Sail, from which a reef extends half a cable's length
both to the southward and to the westward. N.W. b. W. a mile from
Junk Sail is Pass island, from which a sand-bank extends in a southerly
direction, and its extreme end bears from the west point of Junk Sail
S. W. by W. -L W., and the channel between is rather less than half a mile
wide. A reef of rocks, showing at half tide, lies N.E. 3 cables from the
summit of Pass island. Keep to the eastward of this reef, and between
it and a small islet lying 4 cables to the N.N.E., having a mud spit with
rocks extending S.S.E. 3 cables from it ; nor can the islet be approached
within a cable's length of high-water mark on its western side.
Having cleared this part of the channel, steer N. b. W. ^ W., to pass
eastward of Flag island, which has a spit extending South 3 cables from
it, and a ledge of rocks off its north-east point, on which H.M.S. Plover
lost her false keel. From thence bring the east end of Flag island in line
with the west end of Pass island bearing S. -^ E., and it will lead in
mid-channel 5 miles above Flag island. Care, however, must be taken
not to open them, as there is a reef, which shows at low water, lying
1^ miles northward of Flag island, and from it a chimney hill on Hai-tan
bears E. b. N.; by keeping the chimneys on Chim island just open west-
ward of the west point of the islet lying N.E. of Pass island, it will be
avoided.
When Pillar rock (on the Hai-tan shore, N. b. E. 6^ miles from Flag
island,) bears N.E. b. E., steer N.W. b. AV. until Slut island bears
N. b. W., when it may be steered for, passing westward of Tower rock,
which lies N. f W. 8 miles from Flag island, and has a reef 1-| cables
westward of it. The summit of Slut bears N. b. W. W. 4 miles from
Tower rock, and between them are several reefs ; the west end of the
reef (part of which always shows) nearest the rock, bears N. W. 8
cables from it.
N. b. W. 2| miles from the Tower rock is a reef which only shows at
low water, and when on it the Cows Horn (a remarkable peak on the main
outside the strait) bears N. b. W. and is in line with the east end of Slut
island, Pillar rock bears S.E. b. S., and Tower rock is in line with the
south-west point of Hai-tan. The channel out of the strait is between
this latter reef and a Black -peaked rock, bearing from the reef
W. by N. N. three-quarters of a mile. Rocks visible at low tide extend
120 AMOY TO WHITE DOG ISLANDS. [CHAP. IT.
from the Black-peaked rock south-easterly a quarter of a mile, and there
is also a reef lying half a mile to the southward of it. Both these reefs
on the western side of the channel will be avoided by keeping the summit
of Slut to the northward of N. ^ E.; there are several reefs between
Black-peaked rock and Chung island.
The best channel out of Hai-tan strait is to the eastward of Slut
island, between Slut and Shingan islands. Reefs extend from both shores,
narrowing the channel to 4 cables' lengths. When working through the
narrows, the summit of Slut must not be brought to the southward of
S. W. -j S. as a rocky patch with only 9 feet on it lies 7 cables to the
north-east of the island. N.N.E. E. 2| miles from the summit of Slut
island is a sunken rock on which the sea breaks at low water ; when upon
it the Cows Horn bears N. W. f N. Shingan island, on the eastern side of
the narrows, trends away to the N.E., breaking into detached fragments
and giving a little more room for a board, but the main difficulty is the
tide, which, after a vessel is through the channel, affords little or no help,
so that unless there is a slant of wind she is liable to be driven among
the small islets north of Hai-tan, and if a dull sailer, and unable to clear
the dangers in one tide, she will be compelled to bear up before dark.
There are three other channels between Slut island and Hai tan island,
none of which, owing to the height of the islands and consequent liability
to be becalmed, are so good as the one described. The flood tide enters
through all these, but with great irregularity ; it should, however, be
observed, that while the Plover was employed on this portion of th
survey, a very severe Typhoon occurred to the northward, which may
in some measure have caused the difficulty experienced by her getting
out at this end.
TESSA.R.A ISLANDS are a group of four islets lying N.N.E. 6 miles
from Slut island, and between them and the Cows Horn the depth is 6
fathoms. The long swell which set into the bay prevented the Plover
anchoring, and giving these islands as well as the islets to the eastward
that close investigation that could have been wished. The only conclusion
arrived at was that there was nothing here sufficiently extensive to shelter
a vessel in the North-east monsoon. A reef extends S.S.E. 3 cables from
the easternmost islet.
ROCK is a small islet with reefs about it, lying S.E. by S. 3 miles
from the Tessara islands. Vessels should not close the Hai-tan shore to
the eastward of this rock, as the intervening space between it and the
Warning rocks (which are about 80 feet high and lie 7 miles to the east-
ward) is strewn with reefs.
CHAP, iv.] TESSARA ISLANDS. - WHITE DOG ISLANDS. 121
ROCK, about 50 feet liigli with a rock awash half a mile to
the westward of it, lies East 6^ miles from the Tessara islands.
WHITE is&AND. At 7^ miles to the northward of the Tessara is the
southernmost of a group of rocks and shoals, which extend hence all the
way to Sand peak. Junks anchor under the largest, named White island,
but there is almost always a heavy ground swell setting into this bay.
A sandy beach extends from the Cows Horn to Sand peak, a distance
of 16 miles, and a vessel may stand towards it until the group just
described is reached, which it will be advisable to keep outside of, taking
care to avoid a rock lying 9 cables eastward of White island.
PEAS. Under Sand peak the banks at the entrance of the river
Mm commence ; 3 fathoms will be found at 2 miles from the shore, and
boats may find their way into the Min by the channel between Sand peak
and Woufou island, but the navigation even for them is difficult, and
entirely impracticable to any but of such light draught as can go over
sands that dry at low water. This, however, when the tide will admit,
will be found the best channel for a vessel lying at the White Dogs to
communicate with Fu-chau fu. There is a large fishing establishment
under Sand peak.
TURNABOUT ISLAND, lying E.S.E. about 4 miles from Hae head,
is in lat. 25 26' N., long. 119 58' 42" E. ; there are two small islets off
it. A sunken rock, on which the sea breaks occasionally, lies 2 cables
to the northward of the island.
WHITE DOC ISLANDS, called by the Chinese Pih-kuen, bear N.N.E.
23 miles from the peak of the Kiangshan hills on Hai-tan island, and
N.E. ^ N. 15 miles from Norton rock. They consist of two large and one
smaller islet, named Middle Dog, South Dog, and Tong-sha island.*
Tong-sha, the western island, and the largest of the group, has a
reef of rocks running off its western extreme, terminated by a square islet
called the Breakwater ; and a half tide rock lies a cable's length from the
western point of Village bay, on the south side of the island. The highest
part of the island is flat topped, and 590 feet above the sea. Fresh water
may be obtained in small quantities.
Kocks and reefs extend both northerly and westerly from the Middle
Dog, but the outer ones always show ; a rock on which the sea generally
breaks lies N.E. by E. ^ E. 1-^ miles from its north-east point.
* See Chart of Kiver Min, with views, No. 2,400 ; scale, m 1-2 inches.
PESCADORES ISLANDS. [CHAP. IT.
The channel between the Middle Dog and Tong-sha is safe. The
islands are inhabited by a few fishermen, and are occasionally visited by
pirates ; as on the point between the Breakwater and the village the
officers of the Plover found a framework with six buckets suspended,
each of which contained a human head.
ANCHORAGE in the North-east monsoon, for vessels of any draught,
will be found under Tong-sha island. Small vessels will find good
shelter in 18 feet, close under the breakwater, and here whole fleets
of Chinese junks remain during foul weather. As the water decreases
gradually towards Tong-sha, vessels of greater draught may approach
as convenient, bearing in mind that the rise and fall is 18 feet. H.M.S.
Cornwallis anchored here for five days, with strong north-easterly wind is,
and rode easy, with, the Breakwater bearing N. W., the village N.N.E.,
and the Middle Dog E. ^ S.
DIRECTIONS The passage from Lam-yit to the White Dog islands
may be considered as the most difficult portion of the coast that a vessel
has to contend with in the North-east monsoon, and it is believed there
are few men who know the coast of China but will allow that Turnabout
island is well named. The attempt of the flood to force its way through
Hai-tan strait forces the water back, and occasions a strong current off
Kwing bay, at the north-east end of Hai-tan. It is a great misfortune
that this bay does not afford shelter, as it would prove an uncommonly
good half-way house ; it is, however, one of the worst places on the coast
of China the Plover dropt anchor in, being full of rocks, with a heavy
swell. Sailing vessels have, therefore, no alternative but to stand boldly
off and trust to a slant on the Formosa side, or to take the Hai-tan strait.
The open sea is, however, preferable, notwithstanding that some vessels
have got successfully through the strait ; yet it requires local know-
ledge and a handy vessel to prevent great detention.
PESCADORES ISLANDS.
The Pescadores or Ponghou archipelago consist of twenty-one inha-
bited islands, besides several rocks, and extend from lat. 23 11^' to
23 47' N., and from long. 119 16' to 119 40' E. From their basaltic
formation the land is generally flat, and no part of the group is 300 feet
above the level of the sea. The two largest islands, named Ponghou
and Fisher, lie near the centre of the archipelago, and between
them is an extensive and excellent harbour. The general depth of
water on the western side of the archipelago is 30 and 35 fathoms ;
there are, however, some places where there are 60 fathoms. To the
CHAP, iv.] JUNK ISLAND. - NINE FEET REEF. 123
eastward of the group the depth is 40 fathoms, and the current
strong.*
These islands contain (in 1843) a population of about 8,000, and] are
extensively cultivated, potatoes, maize, millet, and ground nuts being pro
duced in considerable quantities, as well as a few other vegetables, but
the soil is not good ; owing to the violence of the wind there are no trees,
but the islands are well supplied with fruits and vegetables from Formosa.
Bullocks are numerous, being used to till the ground. Fresh water was
abundant in the months of June and July, but it was stated that at some
seasons it was scarce. H.M.S. Plover watered from a well at Ponghou
island that yielded 3 tons daily. Dried fish forms the only article of
export, and the imports are rice, sugar, fruits and vegetables from
Formosa, tea, &c., from Amoy.
ISLAND, the southernmost island of the Pescadores, is 2 miles
long, east and west, and 1-^ miles wide ; the depths of water in its
vicinity being 15 and 16 fathoms. The highest part of the island is
260 feet above the sea, and from it, High island bears N.W. ^ N. 8| miles,
Eeef island N.E. b. E. 5 miles, and East island E. b. N. 13 miles. A
reef of rocks extends 6 cables from its south-west side, and within them
is a small artificial harbour for junks. Its eastern face is fronted by bold
cliffs ; and its western extreme is a long shelving point.
ISLANDS are three in number, one of which, Steeple island, is a
remarkable pyramid. The other two are rather more than a mile each in
circumference, and are connected at low water by a stony ledge ; reefs
extend half a mile to the southward of them, and South from the west end
of the eastern island is a pyramidal rock rising 80 feet above the sea.
There is also a low flat rock, nearly level with the water's edge, lying
S.W. b. S. If miles, and a small peaked rock with a reef to the northward
of it lying S.E. 2 miles from the east end of this island.
EAST ISLAND is 8 miles to the eastward of the Reef island, and
between them and distant 5^ miles from the latter is a smaller island,
named Pe-ting, 1^ miles in circumference, with a reef extending in an
easterly direction, not quite a mile from its north point. East island is
2^ miles in circumference, and has a small islet lying half a mile from its
north-western shore.
NINE-FEET REEF lies N. b. E. f E. 12f miles from the north end of
East island, and from it Dome hill on Ponghou island bears W. by N. ^ N.
* See Chart of Pescadores Islands. No. 1,961 ; scale, ; = 0-8 of an inch.
124 PESCADORES ISLANDS. [CHAP. iv.
lOf miles, and Three island N.N.W. ^ W. 4 miles. The lead gives no
warning, but if there is any tide the ripple will be sufficient to point out
its position.
ROVER GROUP consists of two large islands, Pa-chau and Tsiang,
and several rocks, and are sufficiently extensive to afford shelter under
their lee in either monsoon. The general depth is 7 and 8 fathoms on the
southern, and 13 and 14 fathoms on the northern shore. From the highest
part of the group, the lighthouse on the south-west point of Fisher island
bears N. b. W. 10^ miles.
Pa-chau, the western island, is 2^ miles long, north and south, and a
mile broad, and its summit, which is near the eastern shore, rises like
a dome with a large pile upon it. S.W. ^ W. 2^ miles from the summit
is the end of a reef extending in a westerly direction from the south
point of the island, and part of it shows at all times of tide. There is
also a reef which covers at high water, bearing Wf by S. f S. from the
summit, and lying 2 cables from the shore. The north-west point of the
island is not steep-to ; and a rock, which always shows, lies off the north-
east point, having a channel 4 cables wide between it and the point.
Tsiang, the eastern island, is only l miles long N.E. and S.W., and
about 1^ miles broad, and the channel between it and Pa-chau is barely
a cable wide. The east point of this island is remarkable from an isolated
cliff, called Rover Knob, 100 feet high, which forms the most striking
feature in the group ; and 7 cables eastward of the cliff is a ledge of
rocks, part of which are always above water.
DIRECTIONS. The channel between the Rover group being so narrow
and intricate, the only excuse for a stranger using it would be his vessel
being caught at anchor to the northward of the group in a breeze from
the northward, and unable to fetch clear either eastward or westward.
On the north-west face of Tsiang are two islets, under the southern of
which a small vessel might find shelter in a northerly wind, taking the
precaution not to stand too far into the bay, as there are only 6 feet
water at 2 cables from the shore. On the west end of the island, which
is a cliff, are three embrasures.
In the centre of the southern part of the channel is a small rock with
a reef extending southerly half a mile from it. The passage out is to
the eastward of this rock, and the channel is a quarter of a mile wide.
E. by S. 4^ cables from the small rock is a reef which may always
be detected from the mast head, as well as two other patches lying respec-
tively 4 and 7 cables to the eastward of it.
HIGH ISLAND, bearing W. by S. S. 9| miles from the highest part
of Pa-chau, is dome-shaped, 247 feet high, and three-quarters of a mile in
CHAP, iv.]' ROVER GROUP. HIGH ISLAND. PONGHOU ISLAND. 125
circumference. At one mile to the eastward of it is a low flat island, and
between the two are several rocks, one of which has a remarkable gap in
it, and rises 60 feet above the sea. A rock nearly level with the water's
edge lies S.E. 1 E. 1^ miles from the summit of High island.
YIH-PAN ISLAND, 158 feet high, 2 miles in circumference and
uneven in appearance, is 4 miles to the northward of High island,
and S.W. ^ S., 12 miles from the lighthouse on the south-west end of
Fisher island.
TABLE ISLAND, bearing S.S.E. f E. nearly five miles from the light-
house on Fisher island, is aptly named, the summit being a dead flat 200
feet above the sea ; near its south-west end is a sudden fall nearly to the
sea level, giving it at a short distance the appearance of two islands. The
island is not quite 2 miles long, in an E. b. N. and W. b. S. direction, and
is seldom 3 cables wide. The 2 fathoms line extends 2 cables from its
eastern extreme.
Water. There was a good run of water in the month of June towards
the north-east end of Table island.
TABLET ISLAND lies about a mile to the northward of Table island,
and between them the depth is 12 to 19 fathoms. A shoal, with only
9 feet least water upon it, extends N.W. ^ W. 11 miles from the north-
west side of the island, and from its south-west edge, in 4 fathoms, the
south end of the island bears S.E. ^ E. ; from its north-east limit the
north point of the island bears S.E. by E. ; and from the north-western
limit Dome island bears N.E. by E. f E.
PONGHOU ISLAND, the largest of the Pescadores, is 9^ miles in extent,
in a north and south direction ; it is, however, separated into three portions,
by narrow channels, which have only 2 feet in them at low water, and are
further blocked by stone weirs. The whole of the western face of the
island is fronted by coral reefs. On its south-eastern side, between Hou
and Leechin points, are two bays with fishing villages, either of which
will afford anchorage in the North-east monsoon. The best shelter will
be obtained in the northern bay of the two, as it is protected by some rocks,
the reefs lying off which may be seen from the mast head, as the water is
very clear. Dome bay, on the south-west side of the island, will also afford
good anchorage in 6 fathoms.
IYIAXTTNG HABBOTTR is formed at the south-west part of Ponghou
island, and although much confined by coral reefs it has sufficient depth
for vessels of large draught. The town of Makung stands on the north
side of an inlet, close to the north-east of the entrance, and will be
126 PESCADORES ISLANDS. [CHAP. iv.
easily recognized by a citadel and a line of embrasures. The large junks
waiting for a favourable wind to take them to Formosa, anchor to the
south-west of the town in 7 and 8 fathoms water, with Black "rock lying
midway between Fisher island and Makung, bearing N.E. by N. The
junks belonging to the place lie close to the town, in a creek to the north-
eastward of the citadel.
The harbour runs back 3 miles to the eastward from Chimney point,
the south point of entrance, on which is an old Dutch fort. The
southern shore is low, and on Dome hill, which is 154 feet above the sea,
and the highest part of the land hereabouts, is a large pile of stones ;
the land between the hill and Chimney point is low and in two places
less than a cable across. Dome hill overlooks Dome bay on the south-
west face of the island in which there is a village and a fort. The
isthmus immediately eastward of the village is low enough for the sea to
break over it at high water during a south-east gale. The Plover
anchored with Chimney point bearing N.W. W. distant 6 cables, which
is also the width of the harbour here.
Within the harbour there are four coral patches, awash at low water
springs, but they may always be detected from the mast head in time
to avoid them. From the westernmost patch Chimney point bears
N.W. by W. W. and Dome hill S. by E. \ E. ; the next patch lies a
quarter of a mile farther eastward, with the fort on Chimney point
N.W. by W. \ W. and Dome hill South ; from the next patch the fort
bears N.W. ^ W., and the hill S. | W. ; and from the fourth patch the
fort bears N.W. W., and the hill S.W. by S. They are all small in
extent, and steep-to.
DIRECTIONS. In running for Makung harbour from the westward
pass about half a mile to the southward of Litsitah point the south
extreme of Fisher island, and then steer E. ^ N. for the town of Makung,
which, as before observed, may be recognized by a citadel and a line of
embrasures. The only dangers to be avoided in entering this passage
are, the shoal with 9 feet on it, extending N.W. ^ W. 1 miles from Tablet
island ; and a reef, just awash at high water, at half a mile westward of
Dome island. Flat island, which lies 2 cables westward of Chimney point,
is also surrounded by reefs to the distance of a cable's length from
hi^h water mark ; and shoal water extends three-quarters of a cable
in a northerly direction from Chimney point, on which is the old Dutch
fort.
FISHER ISI.ANI>, which in a collection of voyages in Dutch, pub-
lished in 1726, is called D'Vissers island, lies to the westward of
Ponghou, and between them is the excellent and extensive harbour of
CHAP. IT.] FISHER ISLAND. PONGHOU HARBOUR. 127
Ponghou. The island is 5 miles long, north and south, and 3 miles
broad. The south-east point, Siau head, is a bold cliff rising 170 feet
above the sea. A reef, which breaks at low water, extends 7 cables
from the western shore of the island, and its outer extreme bears
N. b. E. | E. from the lighthouse.
LIGHT. A fixed white light is exhibited at 225 feet above high water,
from a lighthouse standing on the south-west extreme of Fisher island ;
but as part of the windows are glazed with oyster shells, and the apparatus
very rude, it will not be seen much farther off than a mile.
The lighthouse, 30 feet high, was built 90 years ago by subscription,
and the expense of lighting is defrayed by a port charge of a dollar upon
each junk entering Makung harbour.
ANCHORAGE Vessels seeking shelter in a north-east gale will find
smooth water off the southern shore of Fisher island between the light-
house and Siau head, where there are two sandy bays ; in the eastern,
bay is a fort or line of embrasures, and in the western a run of fresh
water, except during the dry season.
Niu-kung bay, between the north end of Fisher island and Pehoe
island, will afford shelter in the South-west monsoon. The north-east
point of the former island is a table bluff with reefs, which cover at
high water, extending 2 cables in a north-easterly direction from it.
PONGHOU HARBOUR The eastern coast of Fisher island trends to
the northward from Siau head, and forms several small bays which are
steep-to to a cable's length of the beach until 2^ miles north of the head
when reefs extend nearly 3 cables from the shore. To avoid these reefs
the fall of Siau head must not be brought southward of S. by W. W.
after Makung citadel opens northward of the Black rock, which lies
N.E. | E. \\ miles from Siau head, and part of it is always uncovered.
When passing eastward of this rock, keep within 4 cables' lengths of it,
as coral patches extend some distance from Ponghou island.
The Plover anchored at about 3 miles northward of Siau head, with
Black rock bearing S. by E. f E., and the highest part of Tatsang island
E. l N. ; in the bay abreast of her were two runs of good fresh water.
In working up for this anchorage, to avoid the coral reefs which extend
from the Ponghou shore, do not stand farther eastward than to bring the
Black rock S.S.W. The harbour to the northward of this anchorage is
much choked with coral patches. There is a passage out to the northward
between Fisher island and Pehoe island, and it may be used on an emer-
gency by vessels of 15 feet draught, but a local knowledge is necessary to
render it available.
128 PESCADORES ISLANDS. [CHAP. IT.
The archipelago, to the northward of Fisher and Pehoe islands, does
not afford any inducement for a vessel to enter it. The external dangers
therefore will only be noticed.
TORTOISE ROCK, 9 feet above high water and steep-to, lies about
2^ miles from the north-west point of Fisher island, and N. by E. ^ E.
7^ miles from the lighthouse. There is a shoal patch of If fathoms at
6 cables S. f E. from the rock, and N.W. f N. from the north-east point
of Fisher island.
SAND ISLAND, three quarters of a mile long, north and south, and a
quarter of a mile broad, bears N.E. by E. \ E. 2| miles from the Tortoise
rock, and will be known by a hummock which rises on the low land in
the centre of the island and also by its yellow appearance ; a rock lies off
its south-west end and reefs extend north-westerly 3 cables from its north-
west point. At half a mile eastward of this island is a flat black islet,
and to the northward of it a cluster of stones, some of which are always
above water.
SIRS ISLAND bears E.N.E. from Sand island, and a long sandy
point, off which is a small sand island with a house upon it, forms its
southern extreme. On the west point is a low hill connected with the
rest of the island by a sandy isthmus.
Shoal water extends 3 miles to the northward from the north point
of Bird island, and near its centre is North island, which has a house
on it to shelter the fishermen, and upon a reef half way between them
is another house. The northern edge of the shoal water uncovers at low
tide, bearing from N.N.W. \ W. to N. f W. from North island distant 1-^.
miles ; and from the reef at its west extreme, which is steep-to (for the
lead gives no warning), Sand island bears S. by W. From the west point
of Bird island to this reef are many reefs which will be avoided by not
bringing Sand island to the westward of S. by W. until the west point
of Bird island bears eastward of E. by S.
ANCHORAGE. Shelter during a north-easterly wind might be found
on the west side of Bird island ; and from southerly winds, to the north-
ward of the reefs extending from the north point of the island.
N.W. OUTLIER is a shoal patch of 5 fathoms, lying N. b. W. f W.
from Sand island and West from North island.
SABLE ISLAND, bearing S.E. by S. 5 miles from the north-east
end of Bird island, is a small islet with a sand patch on its south cliff, and
CHAP. IT.] BIRD ISLAND. - NORTH ROCKS. TIDES. 12Q
surrounded with rocks. It is nearly connected with the two islands to
the southward of it, by reefs at low water ; the southern. island of the two
has a large village on it.
and RAGGED XSX.ANDS Organ island, bearing S.by E. ^E.
3 miles from Sable island, has a reef lying N.E. | N. one mile from it,
and from which Sable island bears N.W. b. IS". Ragged island is nearly
a mile S.E. by E. from Organ island.
The whole of the east coast of Pehoe and the north coast of Ponghou
abreast the above five islands is shoal.
and THREE ISLANDS. Leechin point, the eastern extreme
of Ponghou, is low and shelving, and at 1^ miles eastward of it is Round
island, bearing S. by E. E. 3^ miles from Ragged island ; and S. ^ E.
1-^j miles from Round is Three island. N.W. by W. ^ W. from Three,
and S. W. from Round island, is a reef which covers at half tide. Between
Round and Organ islands are several overfalls.
TIBES. It is high water, full and change, in Makung harbour at
lOh. 30m. ; springs rise 9J? feet, and neaps 7 feet. The tidal streams
among the Pescadores run with great strength, but they are much affected
by the prevailing winds. H.M.S. Plover, during the southerly monsoon
in August, sometimes experienced a stream of 4 knots per hour on
the flood running to the northward, whilst with the ebb, the current
slackened for two and three hours, but seldom ran with any velocity from
the northward. Vessels therefore navigating in this neighbourhood may
safely allow that the effect of the current and tidal stream together will
set them, according to the prevailing monsoon, 17 miles in one tide. Tide
races are common, and overtop with great violence.
FORMOSA BANKS occupy a large space on the charts to the south-
west of the Pescadores, and as they have not been surveyed and there is
at present no account of them they should be approached with great
caution. They appear to trend in the direction of the Pescadores chan-
nel and to carry 5 to 10 fathoms water. There is, however, probably
less water over them, for Captain Livingstone, of the ship Sea Star, of
Glasgow, reports that his vessel struck the ground in lat. 23 19' N.,
long. 118 53' E., and carried away part of her keel. The depth he
considered to be about 15 feet, and High island bore E. -J S. about
20 miles.*
* Nautical Magazine, p. 54, January 1858.
[C.]
130
CHAPTER V.
EAST COAST OF CHINA WHITE DOG ISLANDS TO NIMKOD SOUND.
VARIATION 1 00' to 1 40' West, in 1861.
RIVER Mixr.* The entrance of this river is 8^ miles N.W. W.
from the anchorage at the White Dogs (page 121), and is formed
between sandbanks which extend 7 miles from the land, and partly dry at
low water. The northern range of banks terminates to the eastward in a
detached rocky patch, named Outer Min reef, two peaked heads of which
show at the last quarter ebb. The large island of Woufou, 6 miles long
east and west, and 4 miles broad, is situated within the entrance, and
near its north-east point is the little island of Hokeang, with its two con-
tiguous islets called the Brothers.
The city of Fu-chau stands on the left bank of the river 34 miles
within the entrance, and during the survey of 1841 the navigation of the
river, 4 miles below the city, was obstructed by piles of stones and stakes,
which had occasioned great detriment by preventing the flow of the tide,
and causing the sandbanks to accumulate and shift ; and, as it is one of
those rivers where changes may be looked for each season, a stranger
had better obtain a pilot. The usual anchorage is off the south point of
Losing island at 9 miles below the city.
TIDES It is high water, full and change, at the White Dog islands at
9h. Om., and springs rise 18 feet ; at Temple point, river Min, at lOh.
45m., and springs rise 19 feet, neaps 14- feet ; and at Losing island, river
Min. it is high water at noon.
DIRECTIONS. With a 16 feet rise of tide, the best time for entering
the Min is from half-flood to half-ebb. The depth is 15 feet on the Outer
bar, and 13 feet on the Inner bar, at low water springs. At low water
neaps there are 19 feet and 17 feet respectively, and 27 and 25 feet at high
water. At half- tide, both at springs and neaps, the depth is 21 feet
over the Inner bar.
When the north sands of the entrance begin to dry, there are scarcely
16 feet on the bar. At low water springs they dry about 3 feet ; at neaps
they do not show. In fine weather, the North and South breakers appear
* The description of this river is by John Richards, Master, R.N., Commanding H.M.
Surveying vessel Saracen, who re-surveyed it in June 1 854. See Chart of River Min.
with Views, No. 2,400 ; scale, m = 1 2 inches.
CHAP, v.] RIVEit MIN. ]31
from half-ebb to half- flood, and the Outer knoll, which has only 7 feet on
it, seldom until after the last quarter ; but in bad weather a line of
breakers extends from the Outer knoll across to the north bank, and a
continuous line from the South breakers to Black head.
The first of the flood-tide sets in from the N.E., and, running with
great velocity through numerous small channels, and over the north banks
inside of Rees rock, sets across the entrance of the river, passing Sharp
peak direct for Round island, gradually changing its direction for Hokeang
island, as the tide rises. The first of the ebb comes from the direction of
Round island, and sets across the Sharp peak entrance over the north
banks ; as the tide falls, the stream takes the regular channel.
Outside of Rees rock the ebb runs strong to the eastward until nearly
low water, when it changes its direction to S.E. The flood, now coming
from the N.E. turns the stream off to the southward ; and near the Outer
knoll it runs strong to the S.S.W. for 3 hours, changing its direction
to the westward as the tide rises. After half-flood, the stream sets towards
Round island, and abates considerably in strength.
At Temple point, on the south side of Woga island, the ebb runs down
for nearly 2 hours after it is low water by the shore, and the flood-stream
runs for about 1^ hours after high water.
OUTER BAR. A vessel bound for the river Min, from the anchorage
under the White Dogs, should steer about N.W. f W. 8^ miles for the
entrance of the channel, south of the Outer knoll. This is the track in,
for the channel north of the Outer knoll is not safe, and should not be
attempted by vessels of large draught. If the weather be cloudy keep the
Breakwater rock, off the west end of Tong-sha island, nearly in line with
the south point of the Middle dog, about S.E. b. E. High Sharp peak,
1,232 feet high, open southward of Sharp Island peak, 616 feet high,
N.W. | W., is a good mark to lead in between the Outer knoll and the
South bank,* till Triangle head comes open of the small black rocks off
Sand Peak point, W. by S. S., or when the North breakers bear North,
then haul up N.W. or N.N.W. (according, as ebb or flood is running),
and crossing the outer bar, gain the deep channel to the northward.
FEET PATCH. If intending to pass northward of the Nine
Feet patch, Sharp Shoulder should be well open to the nortnward of
Sharp Island peak, before Sand peak, 742 feet high, comes in line with
the middle of the black rocks off Sand Peak point, S.W. S. If passing
southward, Sharp Shoulder should be kept a little open to the southward
before crossing that line of bearing.
* See views A. and B. on chart.
I 2
132 WHITE DOG ISLANDS TO NIMROD SOUND. [CHAP. v.
BAR. "Wheii Sand peak appears well open westward of the
black rocks off Sand Peak point, Sharp Shoulder may be brought in line
with Sharp Island peak, gradually opening the Shoulder to the south-
ward as Serrated peak, 2,028 feet high, comes in one with the south-east
extreme of Woufou, S.W. by W. W., which now becomes the leading
mark, until the middle of Brother A. islet comes on with the north
high extreme of Brother B. bearing N.W. by W. f W. ;* with which
mark on, cross the Inner bar, steering a mid-channel course for the river
when Kound island conies on with the south-east extreme of Woufou,
bearing S.W. b. S., and taking care to avoid a sunken rock with only
5 feet on it lying three quarters of a cable's length off Woga point.
There is good anchorage in 5^ fathoms, stiff mud, outside the Inner bar,
with Brother B. in line with, or a little open of, Sharp Peak point, and
Eees rock in line with Black Plead.
Vessels of small draught turning in over the Inner bar, will find the
following marks useful : Stand no nearer the north bank than with Temple
point in line with Sharp Peak point, nor nearer the south-east side of
Hokeang bank than with Sharp Island peak on with the middle of Sharp
Point bluff ; nor to the north-east side of Hokeang bank than to bring
the right high extreme of Brother A. in line with the left high extreme
of Brother B.
six FEET HOCK. To pass to the southward of this rock, which lies
in mid-channel off Temple point, keep Sharp Island peak open of Woga
point. The mud extends westerly a mile from Brother A., and on its
northern edge is a patch of rocks which covers at quarter flood, and from
them Brother A. bears E. by S. ^ S., and Temple point N. b. E. Sharp
Island peak shut in behind the high land of Woga, will lead inside, or
northward of the Temple Point rock. In the North-east monsoon, the
high land of Woga in line with or a little open of Temple point is a good
line to anchor on ; in the South-west monsoon Woga creek is the best
anchorae.
PASS is dangerous to strangers, particularly at or near
spring tides, for then the violence of the current produces eddies among
the rocks, that occasionally cross the channel, and render the vessel totally
unmanageable, even in a fresh breeze ; it therefore should never be taken
without a pilot or personal knowledge, and then at slack tide. On the
flood a dangerous eddy extends from Kinpai point above it, in the direction
of the Ferry ; and for this reason, the passage north of the Middle Ground
is considered the best. The Wolverine rock, with 13 feet over it, lies
* Beacons were being prepared to mark these spots, in 1854.
CHAP, v.] RIVER MIN. 1 33
S.W. by W. -| W. from the north extreme of Kinpai point, and 1 cables
from the shore. The Vixen spit, at the eastern end of the Middle Ground,
lies S.W. 3 cables from the point, and the distance is about a cable from
1^ fathoms on its south edge to the southern shore.
After passing White fort, close with the northern shore, for it is steep-
to, and may be approached with safety. The highest part of Pass island
in line with White Fort bluff outer extreme is a near clearing mark for
the northern shoulder of the Middle Ground. It is recommended to shut
Pass island in altogether until past that point, opening it again imme-
diately afterwards.
The danger of this passage is in passing the northern shoulder, which
forms a sharp angle of the bank, with only one foot on it at low water
springs, and 4 fathoms close-to ; from this point to the opposite shore the
distance is only l cables. After clearing this point, in passing either -up
or down, the .tide Avill tend rather to set the vessel from the bank into the
stream.
The high Serrated peak in line with the Ferry-house, S. f W., leads
through between the Middle Ground and the Quantao shoal, and is a good
line for vessels to anchor on when coming down the river, and waiting for
an opportunity of dropping through the Pass.
TONGUE SHOAZi Passing the Ferry-house on the port hand the
Tongue shoal is reached, steep-to, having 7 feet water near its northern
extreme. This part is cleared by keeping the Ferry-house midway
between Kinpai bluff and the tower, until the highest point of Kowlui
head comes in line with Half-tide rock, seen ahead. Between Half- tide
rock and Tiutao, also ahead, the bottom is very irregular.
PASS. Proceeding upwards, the river narrows at the
Mingan Pass. About three-quarters of a mile above Mingan, and on the
same side of the river, is Couding island, off the east point of which H.M.S.
Scout grounded on a rock at the end of a ledge projecting 2o yards from
the islet, with 7 feet near its extreme.
At the upper or south end of the gorge are two islets, Spiteful and Flat
islands, on the east bank of the river, and which must be left on the port
hand. The Spiteful rock shows at low water : it is part of a rocky ledge
projecting about 30 yards from the island.
To pass between the Spiteful rock and Losing spit, and avoid the latter,
do not shut in Youuoi head with Flat island until Black Cliff head, just
passed (marked with a white spot), comes in line with the northern edge
of Spiteful island.
The Pagoda rock, off the south point of Losing island, dries at low
water springs. The best anchorage is between this rock and about half a
134 WHITE DOG ISLANDS TO NIMROD SOUND. [CHAP. v.
mile above it ; should this anchorage be full, a vessel should anchor near
the south shoulder of Losing island, where she will be out of the strength
of the tide. The river is navigable for vessels three quarters of a mile
above the pagoda on Losing island ; but the channel is narrow, the tides
strong, and the latter anchorage is generally preferred.
the RIVER MIN. In dropping through the Mingan Pass
with the ebb tide, it will be necessary to guard against a dangerous eddy
setting from the point above Couding island on to the Scout rock.
On leaving the river, take care that the set of the tide across the
channel between Sharp peak point and Rees rock does not force the
vessel on the shoals on the north side of the channel. Fair anchorage in
6 fathoms, to stop a tide, will be found with Rees rock bearing S.S.E.
The junks generally use the Woga channel between Woga and Sharp
Peak islands, but to the northward of the latter island there are several
sandbanks which show at low tide, and there are not more than 6 feet
water between the banks.
ISLAND lies to the north-east of the entrance of the river
Min, and North 10 miles from the western White Dog : and between the
two and N. b. E. ^ E. 6^ miles from the latter is a precipitous black rock,
60 feet high, surrounded by reefs, named the Sea Dog.
S.W. b. S. one mile from the Sea Dog is a rock called Hebe reef which
shows when there is a heavy swell and at low water springs ; from it the
west end of Matsou bears N.N.W. W., and the Breakwater rock at
Tonk-sha island S. b. W. W. : the east end of Reef island (off the east
point of Matsou) in line with Changchi peak N. b. E. ^ E. will lead to the
westward.
Between the Sea Dog and Matsou are two other rocks above water,
named the Sea Cat and the Flat rock, but they should not be approached
within the distance of 2 cables.*
CAUTION. A dangerous rock, on which the sea breaks at low water.
has latelyf been discovered by the river Min pilots, lying East 3 miles
from the Sea Cat, and N.N.E. from the highest part of the Middle Dog.
Until this danger has been farther examined, the mariner should use great
caution in approaching its locality, for its position is given by compass
bearings, and therefore must be considered doubtful.
ANCHORAGE. A good roadstead will be found on the western side
of Matsou island during the North-east monsoon, and good shelter in the
* See Chart : East Coast of China, Sheet 6, No. 1,754 ; scale, d = 14^ inches.
f Commander T. Colville, H.M.S. Camilla, Dec. 1859.
CHAP, v.] MATSOU AND CHANGCHI ISLANDS. 135
deep bay on its northern face in the South- west monsoon. H.M.S. Hornet
anchored in the latter bay in July 1857, and was well sheltered in
5 fathoms, muddy bottom, at a third of a mile from the shore, with the
west extreme of bay bearing N.W. W., east extreme E.N.E., centre peak
of bay S.W., and Pastel rock N. b. E. ^ E. There are several villages
around the bay, and fish, goats, and a small quantity of poultry may be
procured ; fresh water can be obtained in both bays.
CHANGCHX ISLAND. At 1| miles to the north-east of Matsou is
Changchi island, having two remarkable sharp peaks on it, the highest of
which is 1,030 feet above the sea. On the northern face of the island are
several islets, the largest of which, Gordon islet, bears North 2\ miles,
but there is no safe passage between them. N.E. 1^ miles from Gordon
is a small black rock with a reef lying westward of it.
At half a mile S.S.E. f E. from the islet off the south point of Changchi
are two rocks always above water ; and West I miles from the south
point is the Pastel rock.
N.E. b. E. ^ E. 2 miles from the north-east point of Changchi, and with
a channel between them, are three peaked rocks named the Trio, 50 feet
above the sea.
ANCHORAGE. The bay on the south side of Changchi affords good
shelter in the North-east monsoon. Vessels entering from the northward
can round its eastern point close-to, and anchor within the point, in
6 fathoms. Either this or the anchorage on the western side of Matsou
should be used by sailing vessels bound to the River Min during the North-
east monsoon, as they may always get to the bar from hence to the precise
moment they require it, but from the White Dogs a vessel will barely
fetch.
ALLIGATOR, ISLAND or Tungsha is a barren rock, about 40 feet
above the sea, in lat. 26 9' N., long. 120 26' E. It lies East 22 miles
from Matsou island, and N.E. by E. ^ E. 26 miles from the south end of
the White Dogs.
LAR.NE ROCK and ISLET. N.W. b. W. 12 miles from Alligator
island is Larne rock, which is low and flat, with a reef lying 2 cables
north of it. Larne islet, bearing N. b. E. 5^ miles from Larne rock, has
ledges extending from its north and south ends. It is about 200 feet
above the sea, with large boulders sticking up here and there ; near its
summit are three houses.
BLACK ROCK, 40 feet high, is 7-^ miles to the W.N.W. of Larne
islet, and the channel between it and Ragged point is 6 miles wide.
136 WHITE DOG ISLANDS TO NIMROD SOUND. [CHAP. v.
A reef which shows at low water lies E.N.E. 5\ miles from the Black
rock, and midway between Larne and Cony islets, with Larne bearing
S. b. E. ^ E. 5 miles, the north end of Tung-ying island E. f S., and
Cony islet N.W. f N.
TTTNG-YIMTG, the easternmost island on this part of the coast, bears
E. ^ N. 13 miles from Larne islet, and its peak rises 855 feet above the
sea. The appearance of this island is level and flat, with steep cliff'
shores, and a large village stands on the western side ; off its south
extreme is a ledge of rocks. There is another island half a mile to the
north-westward of Tung-ying, appearing as part of it, except on a
N.E. b. N. or S.W. b. S. bearing.
ANCHORAGE. There is a good anchorage in the North-east monsoon,
in 10 fathoms, at half a mile to the southward of the small island lying
off the north-west point of Tung-ying.
CONY ISLAND is a remarkable .conical island, lying W.N.W., 19 mile&
from Tung-ying ; a reef extends 3 cables off its north-east shore, other-
wise the channel, which is nearly 1^ miles wide, between it and the two
islands north of it, is safe. There is a rock, awash at low water, lying
East ly 1 ^ miles from the cone, and another S.E. ^ E. 1^ miles ; from
the latter the south end of Spider island bears W. ^ N.*
ISLAND lies 3 miles to the westward of Cony island, and its
highest part is 620 feet above the sea. There is a large village in a bay
on its south side, a reef off its south-west point, and four islets off its
north-east face. Between Spider island and the main, which is 5^ miles
distant, there are three other islets ; between the first and Spider island
is a half-tide rock ; the centre one, named Isthmus, has a sandy isthmus
and a mud bank extending westerly from it, but the channel between
it and the first islet is clear. The passage between Isthmus and
Inside islet to the westward of it, is obstructed by half tide rocks. The
channel between the latter islet and Cox point has 6 to 4 fathoms
water, and is a mile wide. To the southward of Isthmus islet are the
Larva rocks, four of which are above water ; reefs however extend
northerly from them, rendering the passage between them and Isthmus
islet barely a mile wide.
ANCHORAGE. There is good shelter from N.E. winds on the west
side of Spider Island.
TING-II AE BAT, formed on the west side of a peninsula on the main-
land 13 miles westward of Changchi, affords safe anchorage in 2^ to 3
* See Plan of Sam-sah Bay.
CHAP, v.] TUNG-YING ISLAND. - SAM-SAH INLET. 137
fathoms in the N.E. monsoon ; there are the remains of a walled town
here, but the place is nearly deserted.
Fronting this bay to the southward and south-east are many islets and
rocks. The outermost (four islets above water, named Square rocks) lie
3 miles to the southward, with reefs extending northerly from them. To
the north-east of the Square rocks is Crab islet, surrounded by reefs,
which extend off its north-west part at least half a mile. In the channel
between Crab islet and Ting-hae point are two islets.
BAY, 6 miles to the E.N.E. of Ting-hae, is frequented by
junks, but although it affords them good shelter it cannot be recommended
for larger vessels. There is a rock, which shows at low water, lying near
the centre of the bay at 7 cables from the shore, with Pe-kyau point
bearing E. ^ N., and the nearest Claret rock S.E. b. S.
CLARET ROCKS lie 1^ miles to the southward of the east point of
Wanki bay. Three of them are from 20 to 30 feet above the sea, but
they are all surrounded by sunken rocks, the southernmost of which lies
S. W. ^ S., half a mile from the south Claret, with the hill over Ting-hae
bay bearing W. ^ N., and the summit of Matsou S. b. E. The northern-
most rock lies N.E. -| E. a mile from the north Claret, with the north end
of Gordon islet in one with a small islet beyond it bearing E. by S. ^ S.
Pe-kyau point is half a mile to the northward of this rock ; there is a
channel between them, but the sunken rocks lying off the point narrow it
to two cables ; a stranger therefore should pass south of the Claret rocks,
and haul up when the village in Wanki bay bears North.
POINT is the extreme of a narrow peninsula, in some places
only half a mile across, which runs 5^ miles to the E.N.E. of Wauki bay.
Off the east end of the point, distant a quarter of a mile, is Diplo islet,
with a reef three-quarters of a cable's length to the eastward of it. The
junks use the passage between Diplo and the main, but vessels have no
business in it, as the tides are strong.
IN-LET. * The entrance to this inlet, at 10 miles to the
westward of Spider island, is If miles wide, with deep Avater and strong
tides. On the eastern side, close to the entrance, is a small bay with a
fort in it, and here the junks remain for a tide, but the water shoals too
suddenly for vessels that cannot take the ground. A rock lies in mid-
channel, with Castle point bearing E. N., centre peak of Cone island
* Sam-sab inlet is not known by that name to the natives or European coasters. The
true Sam-sah lies farther north, between Fuh-ning and Nam-quan. Commander G. T.
Colvile, H.M.S. Camilla, December 1859.
138 WHITE DOG ISLANDS TO NIMROD SOUND. [CHAP. v.
N. ^ W. and Steep rock N. b. E. E. ; the west end of Cone island in
line with the highest peak of Crag island will lead eastward of it.*
The Plover made a running survey of the interior of this inlet. In
proceeding to the westward, she left a large island on the port hand, then
hauled to the northward, and found anchorage on a middle ground, three-
quarters of a mile from the shore, and 5^ miles above the island. The
bay extended to the northward 13 miles beyond this anchorage, termina-
ting in a sandy isthmus, over which Fuh-ning bay was seen. The bay
also runs back to the west and south-west ; in the latter arm is the town
of Nin-le-heen.
At 4 miles to the southward of the entrance of Sam-sah inlet is the
opening into another inlet, which is ten miles deep ; there are 30 fathoms
water at the entrance, but circumstances did not admit of its being
examined.
xsiiAxras. Off the entrance to Sam-sah inlet and 7 miles to the
south-westward of Spider island there are three islets, named Rag islands,
having the Bittern rock, which covers at high water, lying a mile to the
northward of them. The Plover anchored to the westward of the western-
most islet and found tolerable shelter. The tides here run with great
strength, and a long swell rolls home into the bay with north-east winds.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, at Changchi island at
9h. 30m., and at Spider island at lOh. Om. ; springs rise 17 feet. Inside
Matsou and Changchi islands the tidal streams are very perceptible, there
being a great indraught into Ting-hae bay and the northern entrances to
the river Min with the flood, and the velocity off Ragged point sometimes
amounts to 3 knots. There is also a great indraught into Sam-sah inlet.
To the northward of Changchi the flood came from the E.N.E. at the
rate of 1^ knots per hour, and the ebb from W. b. S. 1^ knots; also
off Cony island the ebb averaged l knots from W. b. S. at neaps. At
the anchorage inside Sam-sah inlet the ebb came from the N.W., and
it ran 11^ miles in a tide ; the flood set E.N.E. for the first 3 hours,
then S.E.
DOUBLE PEAK ISLAND is 3 miles long, N.N.E. and S.S.W., and
near its northern end are two remarkable peaks, the highest of which
rises to the height of 1,190 feet above the sea. It lies 3 miles to the
north-east of Spider island, the only danger in the channel between being
the rocks lying off the north end of the latter island.
There are two cone-shaped islets between Double Peak and Cony
island, with channels between too narrow for sailing vessels, but there is
* See Plan of Sam-sah bay, No. 1,988 ; scale, m = 0' 7 of an inch.
CHAP, v.] DOUBLE PEAK ISLAND. PIH-SEANG ISLANDS.
a good passage between the southernmost of these islets and Cony island ;
reefs extend 3 cables in a north-easterly direction from the latter, and the
west point of the former is not steep-to.*
ANCHORAGE. Good anchorage in the North-east monsoon will be
found to the south-east of a small islet, with a rock above water on each
side of it, lying three quarters of a mile to the westward of the west
point of Double Peak island ; the two cone-shaped islets to the northward
of Cone island sheltering from the eastern swell.
FLAP ISLAND, at 1^ miles westward of the north end of Double
Peak, is a low flat islet, with a sunken rock off its southern point.
There is no passage fit for vessels between this islet and the main land,
but there is good shelter abreast the first sandy bay within the point
westward of it. Here were found six piratical junks plundering part of a
convoy they had captured.
BITTERN ISLAND. To the northward of Flap and Double Peak
islands the coast trends to the northward for 9^ miles to Fielon island,
and off it is Bittern island and several rugged rocks which it will be ad-
visable for vessels of large draught to give a berth to, and not to close the
shore under the depth of 6 fathoms. Bittern island is from 3 to 4 miles
in circumference, and between it and the main there is a passage three
quarters of a mile wide and a mile in length, affording good anchorage in
3^ fathoms for small vessels in either monsoon. On the north-west side
of the island is a sandy cove where fresh water will be found. H.M.S.
Bittern, when in search of piratical junks, anchored in 4^ fathoms with
Goodridge point E. ^ N., and the extremes of the island from S. by E. E.
to S.W. by S.
FUH-NING BAT. From Fielon island the coast falls back to the west-
ward, forming a deep but shallow bay, in which is the city of Fuh-ning.
In the northern part of the entrance is a group of islets extending 2 miles
from the coast. The Plover anchored under the south-western, named
Fong-ho, which is the largest, but the shelter was not good.
PIH-SEANG ISLANDS. N.E. b. E. 10 miles from Double Peak
island is the Pih-seang or Tsih-sing group. The northern islet, named
Town island, is the largest, and at its south-west angle there is a little
cove, which will afford shelter to one or two small vessels. Between
the northern and southern islets of the group there is a channel free
from rocks, but the intervening space is thickly studded with fishing
stakes.
* See Chart : China, East Coast, Sheet 6, No. 1,754 ; scale, rf= 14* inches.
140 WHITE DOG ISLANDS TO NIMROD SOUND. ' [CHAP. v.
ISLAND, 1,700 feet above the sea, lies North 12 miles from
the Pih-seang group, and between it and the coast is a good roadstead,
named Lishan bay. The anchorage in the bay is on the Fuh-yan side,
abreast an islet and a joss house. The northern entrance to the bay is
broad and open. To the southward are three entrances : the first, Fuh-
yan pass, between Fuh-yan and Chuhpi island, is only a cable wide, and
vessels using it are apt to get becalmed under Fuh-yan. The Chuhpi
pass between Chuhpi and Angle island is 8 cables across, but there is a
patch of low rocks (which must be left to the westward) to the S.W. of
Chuhpi that narrows the channel to half a mile ; but there is a sunken
rock off the north-east point of Angle island. The third entrance, between
Angle island and the main, called Little Pass, is only fit for small junks
or boats.
Water. Good water is plentiful and easily obtained at the anchorage
in Lishan bay.
TIDES In Lishan bay it is high water, full and change, at lOh.
lorn., and the rise at springs is 16 feet. The first of the flood comes
from the E.S.E. at the rate of three quarters of a knot per hour, then
from E.N.E. at half a knot ; the ebb runs to the N.E. at .three quarters
of a knot.
DANGEROUS ROCK is in lat. 26 53' N., long. 120 34' 18" E., and its
summit is 8 feet above high water, or 24 feet above low water springs.
TAE zsiiA.NDS.-E. b. N. 16 miles from the eastern point of Fuh-yan
are the Tae islands, the easternmost of which, rising to the height of 618
feet above the sea, is the largest, and remarkable for its table top. Shelter
can be had under this island as close as a vessel can safely go (say half
a cable's length), but it is bad.
S.S.W. W. 3 miles from the easternmost Tae island are two rocky
islets named Strawstack, about 100 feet high ; they almost join. Close to
the north-east point of the northern Tae island is a remarkable Mushroom
rock 260 feet high.
Between the Tae group and Fuh-yan are the Incog islands, too small to
afford shelter ; they are low and flat, with steep cliffs. At 3 miles to the
N.W. of these islands is Solitary rock, with a reef extending 2 cables
in an easterly direction from it ; the soundings between this rock and the
main, from which it is distant 3i- miles, vary from 7 to 5^ fathoms.
CAtrrion. Vessels passing inside the Tae group should keep well to
the westward, as the ground in their vicinity has not been well explored.
Two reefs, which show at low water, have been found ; one, with the
rocks on it 8 feet above high water, lies with the Mushroom rock bearing
CHAP.V.] TAE ISLANDS. - PIH-QU AN AND NAM-QUAN HARBOURS. 141
E.S.E., and the west eucl of the eastern Incog island S.W. b. W. 2 W
on which bearing it is in line with the east end of Fuh-yan. The table
top island of the Tae group bears from the other E. b. S. S. and the west
rock of the group N.E. b. E. 1^ miles.
SEVEN- STARS are three small rocky islets with several rocks awash
near them, lying X.E. by E. ^ E. 6| miles from the eastern Tae island.
At 3 miles to the X.X. W. of these is Cleft rock, 50 feet above water.
HARBOUR X.W. 14 miles from the Tae group is the
entrance to Pih-quan harbour, to the northward of which is a remarkable
high peak. Pih-quan peak, in lat. 27 18' 48" N., long. 120 28' 45" E.
The harbour is formed between Ping-fong and Chin-quan islands, is 14
miles wide, carries a depth of 3 fathoms, and affords good shelter in the
North-east monsoon to vessels under 15 feet draught.
Ping-fong has three chimneys on its summit ; off its south-east point is
a low rock which is never covered, and between this rock and Ping-fong
is a sunken rock. Vessels bound to this harbour from the northward may
round this low rock within a cable's length, and then haul up for the
south point of Ping-fong, giving it and also the south-west point a berth
of 2 cables. The Pih pass, between the north end of Ping-fong and the
main, is fit only for such junks as use sculls.
Water. Fresh water may be obtained in the sandy bay at the foot of
the three chimneys on Pih-quan.
HARBOUR -The south point of Chin-quan island is a
bold steep bluff, having under it a rock which may be passed close-to.
Anchorage in 9 and 7 fathoms will be found on the west side of Chin_
quan after a second rock has been passed. The soundings shoal suddenly
to the northward in the north part of JSTam-quan bay, where stands the
walled town of Nam-quan.
Immediately to the westward of Nam-quan bay is the entrance to an
inlet called Xam-quan harbour, which runs about 15 miles in a general
N.W. direction, when it appears to expand into a wide basin called Gordon
bay.*
On the point at the north side and a little within the entrance is a town.
South of the town point is a small rock which never covers, having
rounded which haul up to the northward, giving the western end of the
town point a berth of 1^- cables, to avoid a sunken rock off it which shows
till quarter flood. When within the point anchor in 14 fathoms, as the
mud banks rise almost vertically. On the south side of the entrance is a
* See Flan of Xain-quan Harbour, No. 1,980 ; scale, m = 1-7 inches.
1 42 WHITE DOG ISLANDS TO NIMROD SOUND. [CHAP. v.
small fort with a few houses. The narrowest part of this channel is 6
cables wide, and the strong tides and baffling winds make it necessary to
have a boat ready to tow the vessel's head round. The Plover traced
the inlet for 15 miles to the N.W. from the town point, and had then a
depth of 8 fathoms ; the channel, which is, however, narrow and tortuous,
is surrounded by high hills, and there was apparently little or no traffic.
NIMROD ROCK H.M.S. Nimrod when proceeding up Nam-quan
harbour, January 1857, struck on a rock with only 9 feet of water on it,
lying about 11 miles from the entrance, and If cables eastward of a small
islet on the western shore.*
TIDES. In Nam-quan harbour it is high water, full and change, at
lOh. Om. ; springs rise 17 feet.
BOUNDARY. The boundary line of the provinces Chi-kyang and
Fu-kyen passes through Pih-quan harbour.
The COAST from Pih-quan harbour trends N.E. b. N. 19 miles to
Ping-yang point ; at 12 miles from the harbour is Tanue bay, which is
too shallow to* afford shelter to any vessel drawing over 10 feet water.
A low rock, named Gap islet, lies 1^ miles to the southward of Tanue
point ; and N.E. f E. 4f miles from it is Farmer rock, which shows at
low water, and lies 3 miles off shore, with Ping-yang point bearing
N.N.W., and Nam-ki peak E. b. N.
From Ping-yang point the coast takes a north-westerly direction and
is fronted by mud banks, which dry 3 miles from the land at low water,
and 'on which are several small islets and rocks. At the distance of 1 1
miles from the point is the embouchure of the Shwin-gan river, by which
the commerce of Wan-chu fu is maintained ; there are only 9 feet on the
bar at low water.
Off the entrance of the Shwin-gan are the Tsang islets, four in number,
the southern of which is the largest. In the channel between this latter
islet and the mud bank at the entrance of the river the depth is only
9 feet. Between the south islet and the one next it to the northward,
there is a channel close to the latter with 4 fathoms in it ; and inside the
two central islands the depth is 3 fathoms, but the space is confined.
NAMKI ISLANDS lie N.E. b. N. 29 miles from the Tae group, and
the largest, 740 feet above the sea, has a good harbour during the North-
east monsoon on its south-eastern side, called Port Namki. Vessels should
not pass among the islets forming the south-west part of this group, as
* Capt C. C. Forsyth, R.N., H.M.S. Hornet, 1857.
CHAP, v.] NAMKI ISLANDS. FONG-WHANG GROUP. 143
there are many reefs which cover at high water. The westernmost islet,
Turret island, makes like a cone, and has reefs to the northward of it.
The southern islet is a castellated rock, and lies S.S.W. 5 miles from
the rest of the group.
Water. Good water can be obtained in Port Namki.
PXH-KI-SHAXT ISLANDS. N.N.E. 9 miles from Namki is another
group, the largest of which is called Pih-ki-shan. There are four small
islets lying close to its south-east side, which protect the anchorage on
the south side of the island from the easterly swell. Vessels should not.
however, choose this anchorage, unless from necessity. Fresh water may
be obtained.
TUNG-PWAN and TAE-PIH ISLANDS. West 11 miles from Pih-
ki-shan, with five small islets intervening, is another group of one large
and four smaller islets. The large islet, called Tung-pwau or Brass
basin, has anchorage off its south-west face in 8 fathoms in the North-
east monsoon, but the shelter is not so good as that on the south side of
the Tae-pih islands, lying 3 miles to the N.W., under which the water
will be smooth in 4 fathoms.*
In working up to the northward of the Tae-pih and Tung-pwan groups,
shoal water will be found to extend 8 miles from the foot of the hills on
the main ; at which distance is the 2 fathoms' line of soundings. On the
eastern edge of this line, at 6^ miles northward of Tae-pih, is the Pang-
peto reef, which is visible at low water ; from it the western of the Tae-
pih islands bears S.S.W. W., and the southern of the Tseigh islands
E. by S. S.
TIDES. At the Namki and the Pih-ki-shan islands it is high water,
full and change, at 8h. 30m., and the rise at springs is 17 feet. At the
anchorage under the southern side of the latter group, the ebb runs to
the N.N.W., and the flood to the S.E. by E.
FONG-WHAIUG GROUP. The Tseigh islands, three in number and
named North Tseigh, South Tseigh, and East Tseigh, lie N.N.W. 8 miles
from Pih-ki-shan, and form the south extreme of a large and numerous
group. Between the Tseigh and Pwan-peen island, the next island to
the northward, is a navigable channel for vessels 3 cables wide. Fong-
whang, the largest island of the group, is 6 miles long N.E. and S.W.,
2^ miles at its extreme breadth, and its eastern face is high and precipi-
tous ; there is a channel for junks between it and Pwan-peen.
* See Chart: East Coast of China, Sheet 7, No. 1,759 ; scale, d = 14* inches.
144 WHITE DOG ISLANDS TO NIMROD SOUND. [CHAP. v.
Coin island, the north-eastern of the Fong-whang group, has three
rocks lying to the N.W. of it, and to the W.S.W. is a low flat islet, Flask
island, with rocks off its southern end, and two rocky islets to the west-
ward, between which there is a safe channel carrying a depth of 8 fathoms.
HARBOUR, the entrance to which is between the Tseigh
group and a high island with bold cliffs, named Fakew, has excellent
anchorage in 4 to 10 fathoms, sheltered from all winds. The distance
is 2 miles between the Tseigh and Fakew, and on entering a vessel will
have to pass over a bar with 4 fathoms on it, deepening to 6 and 8
fathoms, and then shallowing to 4 and 3 fathoms at the head of the harbour.
The anchorage is in 5 fathoms off the west end of Pwan-peen island.
supplies. Water can be procured in this harbour, and bullocks of the
best description.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, in Bullock harbour at
8h. 30m., and the rise at springs is 17 feet.
DIRECTION'S. Vessels approaching Bullock harbour from the south-
ward cannot pass between the Pih-ki-shan and the Tseigh islands, as there
are clusters of rocks interspersed with reefs between them, but they should
pass between Tung-pwan and Shroud islet, which may be recognized by
its bluff; the islands near it are low. Care must be taken to avoid a
sunken rock lying North of the rocks immediately westward of Shroud ;
and also the reef North of the islet lying N.N. W. 2^ miles from Shroud.
In approaching the harbour from the northward, through the San-pwan
pass, which may be taken by a vessel of 12 feet draught, pass to the west-
ward of Fakew, bearing in mind that a rock Avith only a foot over it at
low water lies N.N.W. ^ W., rather more than a mile from its south-west
point, with the west point of Fong-whang in line with the east extreme
of Great San-pwan bearing N.E. ^ N.
To the N.W., 4 miles from Fakew, is the island of Niaow ; the channel
lies between these two, and between Niaow and Fong-whang, where, from
both shores being shoal, it is only 6 cables across. Great San-pwan is
almost connected with Niaow, there being but a very narrow channel
between them. Close to the south-east point of Great Sau-pwan is a
bold perpendicular islet, and the channel is between this islet and Little
San-pwan. The winds being variable and the tides uncertain, unhandy
vessels will have difficulty in clearing this pass, especially if a strong
northerly wind has been blowing, as there is usually a heavy swell at such
times setting into it.
WAN-CHU RIVER. N.W. by W. 8 miles from Niaow island ia
Wan-chu island, fronting the mouth of the Wan-chu river. A mud spit
CHAP.Y.] BULLOCK HARBOUR. WAN-CHIT RIVER. 145
extends 6 miles to the south-eastward oF this island, leaving only a
shallow channel of 7 feet water between it and Niaow.
TIDES At the entrance of Wan-chu river it is high water, full and
r-hange, at 9h., and at 9h. 30m. at Wan-chu fu ; and the rise at each
place is from 15 to 16 feet.
DIRECTIONS When bound to Wan-chu river from the southward,
after passing Coin island, steer N.W. ^ N., leaving the Cliff rocks to the
north-east and the north rock of Great San-pwan island to the south-
ward. Having passed the latter, edge away W. by N. for the south point
of Hutau island, leaving a remarkably steep bluff island, called Hokeen,
to the southward. Off the south point of Hutau, and abreast of Hokeen,
is a sunken rock lying 1^ cables * from the shore, but it will be avoided
by opening the south-west point of Hutau to the southward of a white
rock in Hutau bay. South of the white rock there is a middle ground con-
fining the channel to a width of 7 cables. There is good anchorage in 4
and 5 fathoms to the S.W. of the white rock, but the bay within it is shoal.
From the south-west point of Hutau the entrance of the river bears
W.N.W. 5 miles, and it will be known by an isolated range of hills, with
a square fort at the east, and a small Availed town at the west end. The
depth varies from 3 to 4 fathoms in the channel, which is more than a mile
wide, but the mud dries upon either side, and it shoals suddenly. Having
passed the range of hills keep the left bank or north shore of the river
aboard, until the first hill on the flat island (Wan-chu island) on the south
side of the river bears S.W. b. S., when the vessel will have cleared a
middle ground at half a mile from the south shore, and 1^- miles to the
E.N.E. of this hill ; the highest part of Hutau in line with the south
foot of the hills at the entrance bearing E. S. is the mark for its
northern edge.
From abreast this middle ground edge over to mid-channel, passing
a large walled town on the north side of the river, then gradually haul
over to the first point on the south side, where the hills come down to the
water's edge, passing a point with a circular fort, and a building like a
large jar upon it close-to. Vessels ought not to go above 2^ miles beyond
Jar point ; they will then be in from 3 to 7 fathoms water. From
this anchorage the distance to Wan-chu fu is 5^ miles, but the channel is
too intricate for a stranger. The water of the river contains a great
* Commander Vansittart, H.M.S. Bittern, states that this rock is within half a cable's
length of the point, and may be passed close-to ; and that a sailing vessel must be
carefal of the ebb tide, which sets with great strength to the E.X.E., across the flat
between Hutau and Wan-chu point, and between Hutau and Junk island, especially as
the flat seems to hare grown to the southward.
[C.]
146 WHITE DOG ISLANDS TO NIMROD SOUND. [CHAP. v.
deal of sediment, and is not used by the inhabitants for culinary purposes.
From the summit of Fort hill the canals with junks in them were traced
to the westward, where they probably communicate with the Shwin-gan
river, which appeal's to monopolise the commerce of the district, as
but few junks were seen on the Ngau river, notwithstanding its
capabilities for navigation.
LOT-SIN BAT. Junk island is low and rocky, and lies on the north
side of Hutau island. The channel between them, and between Junk
island and the main, can only be used by small junks.
To the northward of Junk island is Lot-sin bay, which runs back to
the northward 20 miles. There is good anchorage in its southern part,
but its head is shoal except a narrow channel, named Hebe Lock, which
makes Ta-ou-an island.
QUAWG-TA ISLAND. At 2 miles eastward of Hutau is Quang-ta
island, under the west side of which H.M.S. Plover anchored, but the
water was found to shoal very suddenly. There is a channel between
Quang-ta and the Cliff rocks to the south-east, and also between Quang-ta
and Ta-ou to the northward ; take care, however, to avoid the islets and
rocks off the north-east part of Quang-ta.
KEIVIONG HARBOUR. Near the east point of Ta-ou island is a bight
named Kemong harbour, with an islet off each point, in which the junks
are fond of taking shelter. It is, however, confined, and vessels will find
better anchorage to the eastward under either Taluk or Seoluk islands.
Captain Meier, of the Hamburgh barque Kingman, reports * the
existence of a rock, awash, lying in the middle of the entrance to
Kemong harbour. From the rock, which was only seen twice, one or
two feet above water, during the three weeks the vessel remained in the
harbour, the east extreme of the rocks extending from the north-eastern
point of Quang-ta bore South, and the east point of Nam-pan S.W.
Before the arrival of the Kingman no European vessel had brought a
cargo to this port. The Chinese knew of the existence of the rock.
SEOLUK. TALUK. CHIN-XI. TOWAN, and PS-SHAN ISLANDS
lie from 3 to 14 miles to the eastward of Ta-ou. The Seoluk consist of
three islets lying north and south of each other. Taluk is a higher
island, 770 feet above the sea, lying 1^ miles to the northward of
the Seoluk, and in the channel between them the depth is 7 and 8
fathoms. West of Taluk is Chin-ki, a low flat island with a large village
* Nautical Magazine, page 277, May 1860.
CHAP, v.] LOT-SIN BAY. TAOW-PUNG ISLAND. 147
on it ; there is anchorage between these in 3 to 4 fathoms. The bay to the
north-west of Chin-ki is shoal ; at its head is the entrance to Hebe Lock
communicating with Lot-sin Bay. At 8 cables to the north-east of
Chin-ki is Towan island, with a channel of 4 fathoms' water between
them ; but as a sunken rock lies in the middle of this channel, and a
reef runs out from the north point of Chin-ki, vessels have no business
here. Between Towan island and the rocks off the north end of Taluk
island, the passage is a mile wide.
Pe-shan, the easternmost islet of this group, is 1^ miles long, east and
west, and off its northern face are three rocks, and off its southern two
islets. W. b. N. li miles from Pe-shan is a low level islet, named Flare
< *
island, and to the N.W. is Sugar Loaf island, .with a small islet lying
close to its north side. Between Sugar Loaf and Flare islands the depth
is 5 fathoms.
TIDES. At the anchorage between Chin-ki and Taluk islands it is
high water, full and change, at 9h. 20m. ; and springs rise 13 feet.
TAOW-Ptmo ISLAND, bearing N.N.E.* 9 miles from Pe-shan, is 7
miles long N.N.E. and S.S.W., and 1^ miles broad, and to the westward
of it is Yey-van bay, which is shoal and affords no shelter. The
island is separated from the main by a narrow channel called Penetra-
tion pass, through which all the country trade passes. Near the north
end of the pass, on the main, is the walled town of Song-men.
Song-men point forms the south end of Taow-pung, and to the south-
west of it, at 2 and 3 miles respectively, are two flat rocks above water.
To the south-eastward of the point are several islets ; the nearest,
named San-shi, has a reef to the westward ; the outer islet of the three
has a shoal off its north end. There is a navigable channel, a mile broad,
between San-shi and the rocks off the point. At 3 miles to the N.E. of
Sanshi, are the Stragglers and Shetung islets ; the latter, the northern
and highest islet of the group, has a reef lying 3 cables from its south-
west point, and many rocky islets off its south end, between which and
the Stragglers there is a channel carrying a depth of 6 fathoms. Indiffe-
rent shelter in the North-east monsoon may be found under Shetung island.
Between Shetung and Taow-pung island are two islets forming three
channels, the eastern of which, between Shetung and the next islet
westward, has 3 fathoms in it, but the other two are too narrow for
vessels. Junks lie inside the inner islet, where there is a small village.
To the north-east of these two islets are three rocks above water, the
northern of which has a reef off its east end. Soudan, the eastern islet
of this group, bears N.E. 15 miles from Pe-shan : it is flat-topped, and
has a reef on its south side.
K 2
148 WHITE DOG ISLANDS TO NIMROD SOUND. [CHAP. v.
CHIKHOK ISLANDS. Chikhok island lies North 6 miles from Soudan
island, and as it rises abruptly to the height of 760 feet above the sea, and
has a broad yellow stripe on its south-eastern side, it forms altogether one
of the best leading marks on the coast. N.N.W. 1 miles from Chikhok
is an islet named Low Chikhok with a half tide rock lying N.W. 3 cables
from it. West 2 miles from Chikhok is Crookback island, with many rocks
about it. H.M.S. Plover anchored to the south-west of Crookback in
2| fathoms, but a long swell sets in here, and the channel to the north-
ward of it is too shallow to get through on that side. The same may be
said of all the channels amongst the islands to the north-west of Chikhok.
TAX-CB.au ISLANDS. East, distant 9^ miles from Chikhok island,
is Hea-chu islet, the southernmost of the Tai-chau group ; off its
south side is a remarkable finger rock. The group extends 9 miles to
the northward of Hea-chu, and consists of two large and ten smaller
islands. Between the two large islands is an excellent harbour, the
approaches to which, both from the eastward and westward, are free from
danger. The southern large island, 750 feet high, is called Hea-ta, and
the northern Shang-ta, which is well inhabited. Between Shang-ta and
the Shang rock, to the N.N.E., there is a safe passage.
At about 2 miles to the south of the west point of Hea-ta are two rocks,
the western of which shows at all times of tides, and lies S.S.W. 3
miles from the highest part of Hea-ta ; the other, which bears N.E. ^ N.
4^ cables from the western rock, and S. by W. W. from the highest part
of Hea-ta, covers at high water.
ANCHORAGE. The best anchorage in the harbour formed between
the two larger islands of the Tai-chau group, during the North-east mon-
soon, is to the south-east of the islet lying off the south-Avest extreme of
Shang-ta.
Water. Several watering places will be found on Shang-ta island,
but the supply from any one of them is not abundant.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, at the anchorage at the
Tai-chau islands at 9h. Om., and springs rise 14 feet.
SQUALL ISLANDS At 6 miles N.W. b. W. from Shang rock, the
northern islet of the Tai-chu group, are the two Squall islands, but so
close together as to appear as one, except on an E.N.E. and W.S.W.
bearing. Eocks lie off the north-east and north-west points of the
northern island, and a reef extends from the south-east end of the southern
island. Junks take shelter under the western point during strong north-
east winds.
CHAP, v.] TAI-CHAU ISLANDS. TAI-CHAU BAY. 149
Crate island, a small clift' islet, lies 2^ miles to the eastward of the
Squall islands, and the channel between them has 8 fathoms in it ; but
the western end of Crate is not steep-to.
TAI-CKATT BAY and RIVER Tai-chau bay, to the N.W. b. W.
of the Tai-chau islands, is wide and shallow, and at its head is the
entrance to Tai-chau river. On the right bank of the river is the
walled town of Haimun, 4 miles above which the river separates into two
branches, one taking a north-west, the other a south-west direction. The
city of Tai-chau is on the north branch of the river, about 24 miles in a
direct line from Haimun. There are only 8 feet at low water across the
bay to the entrance of the river, but inside the entrance points the depths
are 4^ and 5 fathoms. The inhabitants reported that vessels of 12 feet
draught could not cross the bar, except at high water, and that the tide,
which rises from 18 to 20 feet in this locality at springs, would carry
them up to the city.
At 9 miles to the south-Avest of the Squall islands is the North Foreland,
an islet lying off the southern side of Tai-chau bay, 1| miles from the
coast, with a depth of 10 feet inside it. South of it are two other
islets ; and there is a half-tide rock which bears West southerly 12
miles from the north point of Shang-ta, S.S.E. 1\ miles from the North
Foreland, and N.N.W. from Chikhok island, on which bearing Low
Chikhok island is in one with it. In the channel between the Squall
islands and Tai-chau bay, the water shoals gradually towards the main ;
but by not bringing the North Foreland to the eastward of South, a
vessel will be in 2^ fathoms at low water.
CHUH-SETT ISLAND, lying N.N.W. 4|- miles from the Squall islands, is
remarkable, having a sharp cone, 670 feet above the sea, over its southern
point, and a beacon on its western summit. Between Chuh-seu and the
Squall islands are four rocks ; and S.E. b. E. E. 2f miles from the former
is a solitary rock named Fir Cone.
ANCHORAGE and WATER. Good anchorage in 6 fathoms and a
convenient watering place, with abundance of water, will be found under
and to the south-west of the cone of Chuh-seu, bet\veen the south-west
shore of Chuh-seu and an islet with a reef oft' its north-east point.
The channel between Chuh-seu island and Mud islet (a hill on the mud
on the north side of Tai-chau bay) is shallow, with several rocks in it
covered at high water. North 1 miles from the western islet off the
Chuh-seu group is a rock showing at low water.
TUNGCHTra ISLAND East, a little northerly, 5 miles from Chuh-seu
is Tungchuh or Bella Vista island, 700 feet high, the easternmost of this
150 WHITE DOG ISLANDS TO NIMROD SOUND. [CHAP. v.
group. The two Eeef islands lie S.S.W. 2 miles from the south point of
Tungchuh ; a reef extends north-easterly from the southernmost of the
two. Midway between Reef and Chuh-seu are a cluster of rocks.
The island of Gau-tau, remarkable for four barren peaks, lies 3 miles to
the north-west of Tungchuh. The channel between them has not been
examined ; there is generally a heavy swell in it. The low north-eastern
promontory of Gau-tau is an island at high water ; a half-tide rock lies
North 3 cables from its eastern end.
ANCHORAGE. Shelter may be had in the North-east monsoon under
the south side of Tungchuh, but there is generally a heavy swell, which
renders riding there unpleasant, and vessels had better gain the anchorage
under Chuh-seu island, or endeavour to reach Barren bay.
BARREN BAT, formed between Gau-tau and Kin-men islands, is
2 miles wide at its north-eastern entrance, and besides the half-tide rock
just mentioned off the eastern promontory of Gau-tau, there are rocks off
the eastern point of Kin-men, and a mud spit off the north-west point of
Gau-tau. Immediately to the south-west of Kin-men, and separated by a
deep-water channel rather more than a cable across, is Nine Pin island,
divided near the centre by a sandy isthmus, on which is the rock from
whence the island is named. Very poor shelter in 6 to 3 fathoms will
be found between Gau-teu and this island, the deeper water being towards
the latter.
There is a channel to the westward of Nine Pin, but it cannot be
recommended, as there are depths If and 2 fathoms to the northward of
Nine Pin, and between it and Pine Cone, an islet lying N.W. 2 miles
from it. South 2 cables from the west end of Nine Pin, is a rock
which will be seen at half-tide.
and CHAIW ISLANDS. Fall island lies nearly 2 miles to tho
northward of Kin-men island, with two rocks above and one below water
off its west end. The channel is safe between these islands, and also
between Fall and Chain islands, but the latter are not steep-to.*
Chain islands, three in number, bear N.W. b. W. 4^ miles from Fall
island. South 2 cables from the centre island is a half-tide rock, and
there is a rock awash and two small islets lying off the west end of the
southernmost island. Between the Chain islands and Pine Cone island,
to the southward, are four detached rocks.
CAUTION. Vessels should keep to the eastward of the whole group
just described, for the channel inside Chuh-seu, Kin-men, Chain, and San-
mun islands is shallow, and has several rocks in it covered at high water.
* See Chart: East Coast of China, Sheet 8, No. 1,199 ; scale, d = 15 inches.
CHAP, v.] BARREN -BAY. MONTAGU ISLAND. - SAN-MUN BAY. 151
HXSSHAN GROUP, consisting of three inhabited islands and eight
rocks, lie N.E. b. E. 1 E. 17 miles from Tungchuh island, and occupy a
space 5 miles in a north and south, and 2 miles in an east and west
direction, but they are too small and too detached to afford shelter. The
southernmost island, 320 feet above the sea, is the largest, and makes like
a saddle. The inhabitants, who arc Fu-kyen men (and most likely
pirates), call the islands Ung-shan ; they are all fishermen, and excellent
fish may be obtained.
The rocks are steep, with remarkable cliffs. The sea has so much
undermined the northernmost, named Mushroom, as to cause it to bear
some resemblance to a large mushroom. N.E. f E. If miles from Mush-
room is a sunken rock, with 8 feet water on it, from which the Cheng
rock appears in one with the south-east end of Cliff or Sha-ho island,
bearing S.S.W. ^ W. N.N.W. a quarter of a mile from the Mushroom,
is a rock awash at low water.
ISLAND, or Tanto-Shan, 20 miles to the N.N.W. of the
Hieshan group, is separated from the main islands by channels varying
from 1 to If miles wide, the navigation of which is much obstructed by
sunken rocks ; shelter however in the N.E. monsoon will be found under
its south and south-west extremes. The island is 740 feet high, and
nearly divided into two parts, the connection being a low shingly isthmus ;
the northern portion is called Gore island.
To the southward of Montagu, and at the distance of 2 to 5 miles from
the eastern coast of Nyew-tew island, are six islets ; the southernmost,
called the Twins, is 8 miles from Montagu, and the others are 1^ to 6
miles from it, with clear channels between them. A rock awash at low
water was reported in 1851 to lie S.W. 3 miles from the eastern or
larger Twin. Abreast the middle islet of the five (Dike islet), and which
is the nearest to the main, is Nose islet, and vessels passing between
them must bear in mind that neither are steep-to ; Nose islet is nearly
connected with Nyew-tew island at low water.
SAN-MUN BAT. The entrance to this bay is 20 miles to the W.N.W.
of the Hieshan islands, and it will be readily recognized by a remarkable
thumb peak, 800 feet above the sea, called by the Chinese Tafou, and by
the opium vessels Albert peak ; it rises from the northern end of Tafou
island, on the northern side of the bay.
Vessels wishing to stop a tide or driven in by bad weather, will find
good shelter in the North-east monsoon in the bay immediately westward
of Lea-ming island, which forms the north point of entrance of San-mun
bay. In running for this anchorage, give a berth of 2 cables to the
south-west point of the island, to avoid a reef lying off ir. The sounding?
152 WHITE DOG ISLANDS TO NIMROD SOUND. [CHAP. v.
will shoal suddenly after the north peak of the island is brought to the
southward of East ; the bottom is soft mud.*
S.W. S. 2^ miles from Lea-ming, is Sanchesan or Triple island,
and the depth between them is 10 and 11 fathoms. West, distant 6 miles
from Lea-ming, is a conical islet, named Cone island, with a reef off its
.south end ; and N.W. b. N. 6 cables from Cone is a small islet with
a rock off its south-east face. At 4 miles to the westward of Cone is a
small islet.
Having passed to the southward of Cone island, St. George island
will be seen bearing N.W. 4 miles ; the bay shoals gradually as this
island is approached, and the anchorage in 3 fathoms at half a mile South
of it is secure in N.E. winds. There is a well of good water on this
island, but it is not easily got at nor plentiful.
The bay northward of St. George island is shoal and full of rocks ;
it extends a considerable distance, leaving an isthmus 7 miles wide
between it and Nimrod sound. There is an entrance into Sheipu harbour
at 4 miles north of St. George island, and it is frequently used by the
junks.
Westward of St. George island is a group of high islands, the largest
of which is called Tinwan. There are several islets and rocks on the
eastern face of this group, and between their western face and the main
is a deep water channel a mile wide. S.W. from Tinwan island is the
embouchure of a river, on the bar of which there are only 4 feet, but
deep water inside. On the left bank of the river, 5 miles from Tinwan,
is the walled town of Kien-tyau. W. b. N. from Tinwan is the mouth of
the Ning-hau river, on the north side of which, at 6 miles from Tinwan,
is Quarry island, and to the southward of this latter island there is good
anchorage in 6 and 4 fathoms ; a mud spit extends 2 miles eastward
from Quarry island. Between Kien-tyau and Tau-tew point, abreast
of Tinwan, the hills rise abruptly from the coast-line to the height of 1,000
feet ; but the water shoals to 2 fathoms in some places, at the distance of
2 miles from the shore.
TIDES. At the anchorage under St. George island, San-mun bay, it is
high water, full and change, at lOh. 20m. ; and the springs rise about
15 feet.
SHEIPU ROAD. Vessels bound to the roadstead off the town of
Sheipu may pass close to the northward of the islets off Gore island, the
northern portion of Montagu island, and steer in West for the two forts
* See Plan of San-mun Bay and Sheipu Harbour, No. 1,994 ; scale, m = 07 of an
inch.
CHAP, v.] SHEIPU 11OAD. SHEIPU HARBOUR. 153
standing on the summit of Tungmun island, -\vhich forms the southern
side of the entrance to Sheipu harbour. North of the roadstead are
three islands named Bangao, and South 3 cables from the eastern point
of the centre island, Wangchi, are the Bangao rocks, which always
show. There is deep water close to these rocks, except to the westward,
where it shoals to 2 fathoms ; to avoid which do not bring the higher
fort to the southward of West.
Cliff island, or Seao-Seao, lying nearly in the centre of the roadstead,
has anchorage off its north-west end in 4 fathoms, but with a strong wind
a considerable swell rolls in. A reef of rocks extends westerly from
Cliff, and the channel between it and the islands off the main carries 3
fathoms water. South of Cliff is an islet with foul ground between ; and
E. by S. 7 cables from Cliff is a flat rock, and between them a sunken
rock. The channel eastward of Cliff island will be found very narrow ;
and in using it care must be taken to avoid another sunken rock lying
S.S.E. | E. 4 cables from Cliff island.
SHEIPU HARBOUR is between the main land and Nyew-tew island,
and at high water it has the appearance of a splendid basin, but at low
tide the mud dries off shore a long distance, giving it the appearance
of a river. At the western end of the harbour is an entrance into San-
muii bay, and another to the southward leading into the bay west of
Lea-ming island. The town of Sheipu stands on the main, forming the
northern boundary of the harbour, and derives its importance principally
as a convenient stopping place for the coasting trade ; the walls are in a
dilapidated state, and the houses and shops are not good.
There are three very narrow entrances, with rapid tides and chow-chow
water in them, leading from Sheipu head into Sheipu harbour. Two of
these entrances are formed by Tungmun island. In the centre of the
middle entrance, between Tungmun and Sin island, is a rock on which
H.M.S. Sphinx struck in 1853. It lies in the narrowest part of the
channel, and the least water on it was 10 feet, with irregular soundings
around it, the deepest water being towards Sin island ; it appeared very
small, and is probably quite smooth. This passage is not recommended
for large vessels, and if used they should keep well over on the southern
shore.
The northern entrance between Tungmun and the main, although tor-
tuous and narrow, is safe ; there is also less chow-chow water than in the
middle entrance. The south entrance, between Sin and Nyew-tew, is long
and narrow, and near its mouth is a small flat islet with a reef extending
eastward from it. Vessels pass to the north-eastward of this islet ; but
it is said the Chinese junks never use it, and they report rocks in mid-
channel.
154 WHITE DOG ISLANDS TO NIMROD SOUND. [CHAP. r.
Tlie COAST from Sheipu trends in a northerly direction about 25
miles to the entrance of Nirnrod sound, and is fronted by several islets
none of which are large enough to afford shelter, and the depth generally
is under 3 fathoms.
HALF-TIDE BOCK lies N.E. b. N. 6 miles from the east point of
Montagu island, with the Bear (an islet near the main with a sharp peak
at its western end) bearing N.W. -^ N., and distant 11 miles. Should
high tides and smooth water prevent this rock being seen, the east point
of Montagu kept westward of S.W., will lead to the eastward.
KWESHAN ISLANDS are eleven in number, besides several rocks.
The largest island is 3 miles long, and deeply indented, and its greatest
breadth is 1^ miles ; in two places, however, it is not more than a cable
or l cables across. It rises near its western end into a sharp peak 490
feet high ; its coast line is steep, high cliffs, and, with the exception of
six small sandy bays, the island is steep-to on all but its western side.
The other islands are much smaller. The whole group is thickly popu-
lated, the inhabitants subsisting principally on fish ; they have pigs, gonts,
a few fowls, and sweet potatoes.
Patahecock, the south-eastei'nmost of the group, is remarkable from
its flat and table-like appearance. It lies North 31 miles from Saddle
island, the south-western island of the Hieshan group, and its summit
is 450 feet above the sea.
The north-eastern island of the group is a narrow cliff islet uninhabited ;
to the westward are four small islets inhabited and cultivated ; and North
of them, at the distance of 3 cables, is a flat precipitous rock, the coloured
appearance of which (it being composed of red porphyry) renders it re-
markable. This face of the islands is free from danger, the depth being
7 or 8 fathoms near the shore.
The north-western island of the group is the second in size and attains
an elevation of 400 feet ; its northern extreme is remarkable, in conse-
quence of several isolated masses of rock. The body of the largest island
bears South of the north-west island, and between the two is a mud bank
gradually shoaling towards the larger island. By keeping the west
extreme of the north-west island to the eastward of .N.N.E., not less than
3 fathoms will be found with good holding ground, and not much swell.
South of the large Kweshan island, and separated by a channel 1^
cables wide, is another island, which is also high, with steep cliffs ; off
its western point is a half-tide rock, and a reef runs off from its south
end. The Holderness rock lies W. \ N. one mile from the highest part
of this latter island, and having only 6 feet water over it, occasionally
breaks ; from it the highest part of north-west island bears N.N.E. ^ E. :
CHAP, y.] KWESHAN ISLANDS. 155
a small peaked islet to the south-east S.E. f E. ; and Patahecock table
E.S.E., the reef of rocks lying off the south end of the nearest island
being in line with it. Another sunken rock with only 5 feet on it lies
S. b. W. | W., three quarters of a mile from the summit of the same
island ; when upon it the east end of the large Kweshan is in one with
the east end of the nearest island, bearing N.E. 1 E., and Patahecock
table E. by S. f S.
Between the Kweshan group and Bear islet to the westward, the depths
vary from 6 to 3-^ fathoms, gradually shoaling towards the latter.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, in the neighbourhood of the
Kweshan islands at 9h. 30m., and springs rise about 14 feet. The ebb
stream out of San-mun bay will be useful in working to windward, pro-
vided the vessel heads up to the northward of N.N.W.
Between the Hieshan and the Kweshan islands the flood against a strong
northerly wind causes an angry sea. At the Kweshan the change in the
direction of the stream does not take place until two hours subsequent
to the change of depth. From hence the flood stream comes from the
southward, and its rate seldom exceeds 2 knots per hour ; it will, how-
ever, sensibly assist a vessel in getting into the Chusan archipelago.
MOUSE, WHELPS, and STARBOARD JACK ROCKS. From the
north extreme of the Kweshan group, the Mouse, a small rock, nearly
level with the water's edge at high water, bears N. % W. 4| miles ; the
Whelps, a cluster of four small islets, W. by N. f N. 8 miles ; and a
low flat reef, with two rocks off its eastern end, named Starboard Jack,
bears N.W. 7 miles.
The CORKERS are several isolated patches of rock lying between the
Whelps and Buffaloes Nose, an island lying 6 miles to the N.N.W. From
the outer or eastern rock, which is occasionally covered, Buffaloes Nose
bears N.N.W. f W. ; there are two islets lying a cable's length to
the westward of it, which, should the rock be covered, will point out
its position. The distance between the Corkers and Starboard Jack is
about 3 miles, and the channel between has a depth of 6 to o fathoms.
The TINKER is a steep cliff rock, 80 feet high, lying N. b. E. f E. 2
miles from Starboard Jack. The Buffaloes channel between them has
6 and 7 fathoms in it, and will be found the most eligible to take in
entering the archipelago during the N.E. monsoon, as the vessel will be
well to windward ; in using it, however, recollect that a sunken rock lies
S.E. b. E. 2 cables from the Tinker,
MESAN and X.ANJETT ISLANDS. Four large and several smaller
islets or rocks lie three quarters of a mile to the northward of the Tinker.
The largest islet, named Mesan. is not quite a mile in circumference, and
156 WHITE DOG ISLANDS TO NIMROD SOUND. [CHAP.V.
about 400 feet high ; its barren summit forming one of the most remarkable
features in, the Buffaloes Nose channel. There are 7 and 8 fathoms water
in the channel between it and the Tinker, but sunken rocks extend a short
distance from both shores.
HARBOUR ROUSE. Between the Mesan group and Front island,
(which lies 3 miles to the E.N.E. and is the southernmost of the islets ex-
tending from the southern part of Beak island), is the entrance to Harbour
Rouse, which will be found a convenient stopping place in the northern
monsoon, for a vessel that has missed her tide through the Beak Head
channel. The entrance lies between Front island and a castellated rock
2 miles to the westward, and the depth inside varies from 51 to 2^
fathoms.
BUFFALOES NOSE iss-ABTD, lying N.W. f W. 16 miles from the
north-east extreme of the Kweshan islands, is 1 miles long north and
south, and three-quarters of a mile broad. Its eastern shore is rocky, and
an islet lies off it." north-west end ; its western side has several deep
indentations, one of which nearly separates the island into two parts.
There are three peaks on the island, the central one of which, 500 feet
above the sea, is the highest. Near its northern end the island is per-
forated, from whence its native name (Niupi-shan) is supposed to be
derived.
ANCHORAGE. The anchorage between Buffaloes Nose and the
Ploughman group is secure ; during the North-east monsoon, however,
the wind blows directly through, and occasional violent squalls are
experienced.
Supplies. Fresh provisions and water may be obtained at the above
anchorage, but the supply of the latter cannot be depended upon.
PLOUG-HIVTAN GROUP is composed of three islets, and the largest lies
W.N.W. nearly a mile from Buffaloes Nose, the depths between varying
from 5 to 18 fathoms. The largest is an even flat -topped islet with a reef
extending from its north-east point ; there is also a detached reef at
6 cables N.W. b. N. from the same point. The other two islets are
narrow and small, and lie to the north-west of the larger one.
Junks usually pass inside the Ploughman and Buffaloes Nose, and to
the westward of the Corkers ; there are, however, many reefs, and the
tides are strong, and vessels will do better to keep to the eastward of
Buffaloes Nose. As before noticed, page 155, the channel between the
Tinker and Starboard Jack is the best to take during the North-east
monsoon, and a vessel will have better anchorage under Luhwang than
under Buffaloes Nose.
CHAPV.] BUFFALOES NOSE ISLAND. - NIMROD SOUND. 157
SOUND. The entrance to this sound lies 5 miles to the
W.N.W. of Buffaloes Nose, and is fronted by the south-west islands of
the Chusan archipelago. The sound is a deep inlet running 27 miles in a
W.S.W. direction from the entrance, which is between the Hunter islands,
(six in number), lying near the south point, and a small island named
Bateman lying 4| miles to the northward.*
From about 2 miles to the southward of the latter island the course up
the sound is W.S.W. southerly to abreast Castle rock, which is on the
edge of the mud on the northern shore, N. W. ^ N. 3 miles from the Hunter
islands, and should be given a berth of about half a mile. From Castle
rock the edge of the mud bank, which is dry in most parts at low water
and extends 2|- miles from the north shore, trends 5 miles towards a small
low islet named Barren island lying close to the shore.
Between Barren island and Nimrod point, on the south shore, the sound
is 2-| mile? wide. Between Nimrod point and the Hunter islands is First
Cone point, with an islet off it ; and to the westward of this latter point
is Cone rock and David island, with a half- tide rock lying a cable's length
to the north-west of the latter. Nimrod point is high, and has several
sunken rocks lying 3 cables off it. Four miles within Nimrod point is an
islet, which, from its central position, is called Middle island ; and to the
southward of this islet is the entrance to Medusa creek, which carries a
depth of 4 to 6 fathoms.
Above Medusa creek the sound, between the southern shore and Parker
island, contracts to three-quarters of a mile, and the Avater is deep, and
the tides strong ; off the east end of this island are some dangerous rocks
which are steep-to and only show at half-tide. S.W., 1^ miles from
Parker Island, is the entrance of a small river for boats, leading up to a
village 3 or 4 miles inland, having about 6 feet in it at low tide.
At 7 miles above Medusa creek the sound is separated into two branches
by the Treble islands. Pass to the northward of these islands, keeping in
mid-channel to avoid a half-tide rock on the northern shore.
To the north-west of the Treble islands, on the northern shore, is the
village of Tung-ju, from whence there is a paved footpath communicating
with the Fungwha branch of the Ningpo river, the distance from hence to
Ningpo being 20 miles in a direct line. On the south side of the sound,
at 3 miles to the south-west of the Treble islands, is also a paved footpath
leading to San-mun bay. Having passed the Treble islands good anchor-
age will be found in 6 or 7 fathoms, mud, off the village of Tung-ju.
TIDES __ It is high water, full and change, in Nimrod sound at
lOh. 30m. ; springs rise about 20 feet.
* See Plan of Nimrod Sound, No. 1,583 ; scale, m = 0'7 of an inch.
158
CHAPTER VI.
EAST COAST OF CHINA. NIMROD SOUND TO THE YANG-TSE KIANG,
INCLUDING THE CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO.
VARIATION 1 40' West, in 1861.
CHUSABT ARCHIPELAGO. This large assemblage of islands, of which
Chusan is the principal, lies near the mainland between the parallels
of 29 39' and 30 50' N. The archipelago may be entered from the
southward by the Buffaloes Nose, the Beak Head, the Vernon, and the
Sarah Galley channels, among which the two former channels may be
considered the best to enter by, and the Vernon to go to sea. The
channel to the northward of Chusan between the chain of islands ex-
tending W.N.W. from Fishermans group and Chin-san island, is generally
taken during the North-east monsoon by vessels bound to Ning-po fu
and Chusan, and it appears clear of danger with the exception of the
Mariner reef at its western entrance.*
, the largest of the islands in the south-west part of the
archipelago, is 9^ miles long N.W. and S.E., and 6 miles wide at its
broadest part, which is the western end ; near the centre it is not more
than 2 miles across, and not much elevated above the sea. The south-
eastern body of the island rises to the height of 865 feet, being a conical
bare hill ; on the isthmus is an isolated peak 718 feet high, and on the
north-west side of the island are five high peaks, one of which is 910 feet
above the mean level of the sea. The western part of the island,
forming the eastern side of Duffield pass, has several small bays with
stone embankments extending from point to point. Cape Luhwang, the
north extreme of the island, is high and bold. The island is well
cultivated and maintains a large population.
The southern face of Luhwang has two deep indentations with sandy
bays, and a reef extends 3 cables from the point abreast the Mesan and
Lanjett group, described in page 155. Reefs also extend half a mile
from the northern extreme of the latter group, narrowing the channel
between them and Luhwang to less than a mile. The coast line of
* See Charts : East Coast of China, Sheet 8, No. 1,199 ; scale, d = 15 inches : and
Chusan Archipelago, South Sheet, No. 1,429 ; scale, m = 0-8 of an inch.
CHAP, vi.] CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO. LUHWANG. 159
Luhwang immediately westward of the reef point trends to the north-
ward, forming a deep bay with three islets in it, extending to Duffield
pa->. South one mile from the easternmost islet there is a mud bank,
having 3^ fathoms on it, to avoid which a vessel may keep the islet
aboard, giving a berth to a rock lying half a cable from its south extreme.
Between this island and Duffield reef, which lies off the eastern side of the
entrance to Duffield pass and consists of three rocks above water with a
sunken rock between them and Luhwang, there are from 9 to 5 fathoms,
good holding ground.
ru-TO XSXiAKD, to the westward of Luhwang, is about 2^ miles long,
north and south, and a mile broad, and its southern extreme, forming a
narrow point, is connected at low water to St. Andrew island. A spit
runs off the north extreme of Fu-to, to the north-east of which are three
islets, with a rock lying a cable's length to the north-west of the northern-
most, named Chloe island.
Tree-a-top island lies 3^ cables to the southward of the south extreme
of Fu-to, with a deep water channel between. This island, 180 feet high
and about 4 cables in circumference, has a pile of stones on its summit,
but no tree ; the old name, however, given it in the chart by Thornton in
1703 is still adhered to.
BUFFIEX.B PASS, between Luhwang and Fu-to, is 1^ miles wide at
the southern entrance (where the water suddenly deepens from 5^ to 40
fathoms), and half a mile in the narrowest part, which is near the centre.
On the Fu-to island shore are several islets ; among them the water shoals
to 4^ and 5 fathoms, and a vessel may anchor and stop a tide if necessary -
Off the fourth point on the Luhwang side is a reef extending a cable from
the shore ; otherwise this side of Luhwang is very steep-to, the depth
being 35 fathoms within a cable of the mud. Two small islets, named the
Notches, lie in the centre of the pass, abreast this reef, and between them
and Fu-to is a half-tide rook ; unless this rock shows, vessels should not
tack inside the Notches so as to pass westward of them.
At the north end of the pass there is a rock with only 16 feet over it at
low water, lying 2 cables eastward of Hebe island ; when on it, the north
extremes of Hebe and Chloe islets are in one bearing N.W. b. W. and the
ea.st extreme of Fu-to is in one with the west extreme of Tree-a-top island",
seen over the mud connecting St. Andrew with Fu-to. On the Luhwang
side, to the north-east of Hebe island, and a cable from the shore, is the
Bird rock, which formerly had a stone pillar on it, but it was either thrown
down or removed in 1846. Two islets lie 2 cables to the southward of
Bird rock. Beyond the rock the coast-line of Luhwang turns suddenly
to the north-east to Cape Luhwang.
l6() NIMROD SOUND TO THE YANG-TSE KIANG. [CHAP. vr.
COUCH PASS, formed between Fu-to island and the central isles, is 1^
miles long and half a mile wide, and is far preferable either to Duffield or
Roberts pass, for both shores are steep-to, and the lead, if hove quickly,
will give warning of approach to the shoal which extends half a mile to
to the S.S.W. from the southern islet of the Central islands.
The south-western of the Central islands is a small islet connected at
low water with the largest of the group by a reef and spit. At half a
cable's length to the northward of the northern island is a reef.
ROBERTS PASS is to the westward of the Central islands, between
them and the mud which dries one mile from the embankment on
Mei-shan island. This channel is 2 miles long, N.E. and S.W., and 4
cables wide, but as the lead will give no warning, its boundary on the Mei-
shan side will not be known except at low water ; the depths in it vary
from 6 to 40 fathoms. Mei-shan island appears formerly to have been
eight islands, now, however, united by substantial stone walls, one of
which, on its northern face, is 1^ miles in extent. The mud dries 1^ miles
from its south, and a quarter of a mile from its north end ; on its east side
the bank is steep-to.
On the north-eastern side of Mei-shan are the two Damson islets, from
the northernmost of which, named Cliff islet, the 3 fathoms line extends
nearly a mile to the northward. By keeping the Central islands open of
the Damson islets until the vessel is three-quarters of a mile past the Cliff
islet, this shoal will be avoided, and the Ketau shore can be approached.
The course for Ketau point, after clearing this pass and Gough pass, will
be N.E. 9 miles.
CH ATJWEL, between Mei-shan island and the Ketau shore, is 2|
cables wide, and carries a depth of 5 and 6 fathoms except at the southern
entrance, where it shoals considerably, and not more than 10 feet water
was obtained ; some parts, however, may be deeper, as only one line of
soundings was taken across the bar. On the mainland, near the centre of
this channel, is a custom-house, and the entrance to a canal which com-
municates with the two populous villages. Two miles to the northward
of Mei-shan is the walled town of Kwokeu, where the mate of the Lyra,
merchant ship, was kidnapped, and attempts made to interrupt the
surveying operations in 1840.
ANCHORAGE will be found anywhere along the Ketau shore, between
Mei-shan and Ketau point, until abreast of Sing-lo-san island, where the
water deepens.
CAUTION. As there is no anchorage besides the above, but in very
deep water, until that (page 170) under Elephant island is reached, it
CHAP, vi.] CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO ; BEAK HEAD CHANNEL. l6l
would not be prudent for sailing vessels to proceed farther unless the
wind and tide will ensure their gaining that position.
TIDES. In the above Passes, at full and change, the first of the flood
often comes from the northward, and runs sometimes for 3 hours before it
takes the direction of the ocean tide.
BEAK HEAD CHANNEL (Taou-sau-mun of the Chinese) is the next
passage north-east of Buffaloes Nose channel, and considered one of the
best to enter the archipelago by from the southward. The entrance is
between Beak head, the east extreme of Beak island, and Vernon point,
the east end of Vernon island, which bear N.N.E. E. and S.S.W. W.
from each other, distant 2| miles. Beak Head island is nearly 5 miles lorig,
in some parts very narrow, and remarkable for two hummocks near its
west end. Off Beak head are three islets ; and to the south-westward of
the head are several islets and a rock, which together with Luhwang
island form Harbour Rouse (page 156), which will be found a convenient
stopping place for a vessel that has missed her tide through the Beak Head
channel. The channel between Luhwang and Beak island has 3|- fathoms
water ; but there would be no object in using it while there are passages
so superior.
Off the north-east face of Beak island are two reefs, lying 3 cables' and
half a cable's length respectively from the shore. Off the north end of
the island are Gull, Shag, and Puffin islands, with a reef of rocks above
water between the two former ; a reef also extends 3 cables from the
north-west end of Puffin island. Near the west end of Beak island the
channel narrows to half a mile between the reef of rocks, the northernmost
of which is always above water, and two small islets lying off the south
side of Conical Hill island. This island is midway between Beak
and Vernon islands, and between it and the latter are two islets, the
reefs off which render the channel between Conical Hill and Vernon
islands more intricate.
DIRECTIONS. A N.W. by W. W. course for 8 miles from the
eastern entrance of Beak Head channel will lead to the southward of
Conical Hill and Conway islands, and from thence a N.W. course will
clear the channel ; care must, however, be taken in light winds to give the
Pai rock, the last islet on the north side of the channel, a wide berth, as
the flood sets directly towards it. Good anchorage in 9 and 10 fathoms
will be found on the north-west side of Conway.
To the northward of Conway island is a group of islets and rocks,
through which there is a passage into the Vernon channel ; but owing to
the rapidity of the tides, it should not be attempted without local expe-
rience. On the Luhwang side of Beak Head channel is a reef, and an
[0.3
162 NIMROD SOUND TO THE YANG-TSE KIANG. [CHAP. vi.
islet with a small pinnacle on it ; the reef, which is generally uncovered,
bears S.E. f S. 2 miles from Cape Luhwang, and by keeping the cape to
the westward of N.W. N. it will be avoided. The mud dries 7 cables
from the Luhwang shore, in the bight to the southward of this reef.
Landing is difficult on this side of Luhwang, except at high water.
VERIZON CHANNEL or South-east passage (Hea-che-mun of the
Chinese), to the northward of Beak Head channel, is formed by Vernon
island on the south and Taou-hwa island on the north. This will be
found a convenient passage from Chusan during the northern monsoon,
the distance from Elephant island to the open sea being only 17 miles ; it
should not, however, be attempted with light winds, as vessels are liable
to be becalmed and experience flaws under the high lands of Taou-hwa,
and in some parts the depths are 60 fathoms, and the tides strong.
Vernon island is 5| miles long in a W.N.W. and E.N.E. direction,
and on its north-east side is a wide bay, with two islets and a reef in it,
where vessels may anchor in 4 and 5 fathoms, and procure water from
Taou-hwa island ; there are several cascades, and the water may be
obtained without removing the casks from the boats. The east end of
Vernon island is rugged, with large boulders of granite ; at this end there
is a cove, which runs back three-quarters of a mile to the westward and
affords shelter for boats.
The eastern entrance to the Vernon channel is 1^- miles wide, but
5 miles within it is divided into two passages by John Peak island,
which has a rock lying half a cable's length from its north-east
extreme and uncovers at the last quarter ebb. The passage on the
north-east side of John Peak is only 3^ cables' wide between this rock
and two small islets and some rocks which bound its north side. The
passage between John Peak and Vernon islands is half a mile wide, and
good anchorage will be found on the south side of the former. The
Taou-hwa snore is bold and precipitous, and the peak of the island rises
to the height of 1,680 feet above the sea. Near its western end the land
becomes low, rising, however, again, and surmounted by a peculiar per-
pendicular crag, called Millers Thumb, 606 feet high, which will be
recognized nearly throughout this part of the archipelago.
SARAH GALLEY CHANNEL, the ncx i passage to the northward of
the Vernon, is by no means so eligible as those just described. Near the
entrance, at 4 miles N.E. b. E. E. from the south point of Taou-hwa
island, will be seen the Jansen or Laoush rock, a steep cliff islet, with
rocks extending 1^ cables from its south end ; there is also a half-tide rock
lying W. by N. N., 1| miles from the north extreme of the Laoush,
with the highest part of Ousha island bearing N.N.E. E. 1| miles.
CHAP, vi.] CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO ; SARAH GALLEY CHANNEL. 163
The coast line of Ousha island is steep cliffs, and off its north-west
end is a ledge of rocks ; the southern end of the island is the highest,
and rises in a round peak. The channel between the north-east point of
Taou-hwa island and Peak island is not navigable, owing to reefs and
strong tides ; neither is there a fit passage between Peak island and
Tang-fau. Vessels may pass between Peak island and the two patches of
rock lying westward of Ousha ; but there are some rocks off the north
end of Peak which must be avoided.
The channel, named Cambrian pass, between Ousha and the large island
of Chukea, or Chus Peak, is 2 cables wide, but, from the violence of the
tides, it should not be used without a commanding breeze.
DIRECTIONS Vessels entering the Sarah Galley channel from the
southward generally pass westward of Laoush rock and Ousha island,
and from thence the channel is between the latter island and the two
patches of rock to the westward, which are almost covered at high
water ; they lie N.N.E. and S.S.W. of one another, 2 cables apart,
and the distance between them and Ousha is half a mile. After
passing these rocks the course is North 2 miles, leaving two small islets,
named Teen and Yung and a reef between them, to the westward ; and
Hut island (so called from a house on its summit) with a reef of rocks
off its south extreme, to the eastward. The channel here is three
quarters of a mile wide.
From thence steer N.W. b. N. for If miles, leaving an island with
two hummocks to the southward, and Druid island to the northward ;
but be cai-eful after passing Hut island, that Flat or Liwan island (at
the west entrance to the channel), is not brought westward of
W. by N. N., as the water shoals suddenly on the north side of the
channel, and the mud dries nearly all the way from Druid island to
South Chukea island, leaving a small boat channel.
When in the vicinity of Liwan island the east end of Chusan will be
seen, having on it a small temple composed of large stone slabs. Between
Liwan and Chusan is Lokea island, the southern shore of which is not
steep-to; and this is the case with the whole of the islets on the south side
of Chusan, between this and Pih-lou, after which they become steep-to.
After passing the smaller islets south of Ta-kan the shoal water will
be avoided, when standing northward, by not bringing the rocks off the
southern part of Pih-lou on with Trunk point on Elephant island.
Liwan has two rocks off its south end ; the anchorage in its vicinity is
noticed in page 177.
CHUKEA ISLAND is about. 7 mile* long, north and south, and oil its
western side are many deep indentations, some of which we enclosed
L 2
164 NIMROD SOUND TO THE YANG-TSE KIANG. [CHAP. vi.
from the sea by stone walls. Near its south extreme are four remarkable
peaks, and near its centre is a smooth-topped cone, 1,164 feet high, named
Chukea peak, which is one of the most prominent objects in making
this part of the archipelago.
There are several indentations on the eastern side of this island, and
the southern one, Wolf bay, affords anchorage in the North-east monsoon,
and was resorted to in 1842 by H.M. ships from Chusan, for water.
On the north side of the bay is a black islet, with rocks extending
southerly and easterly from it. Fronting the bay, and 1| miles from the
shore, is a peaked rock, named Pillar, off which, at 2 cables to the N.E.,
are two reefs, showing at half tide. In the small inlet north of Wolf
bay is a reef visible at low water, and it will be avoided by tacking out-
side the headlands ; Nob rock lies 3 cables from the north point of the
bay, and is always above water.
TOXTGTXHG and PIHTIJXTC ISLANDS, and PEXiXCAHT ROCK. To
the eastward of Chukea, at the distance of 5 and 8 miles, are two islets
named Pihting and Tongting. Tongting, the outer one, about 40 feet
high, has detached reefs to the south-west of it. Pihting is a similar islet.
The Pelican rock lies 2 miles from the Chukea shore, and only shows
at low water springs ; but the disturbed water over it, when covered,
will generally indicate its position. From the rock Yangsi islet, off the
north-east end of Chukea, is in line with the summit of Putu island,
N.N.W. l W. ; Pihting islet bears E. N. ; and Chukea peak N. W. f W.
PTTTTT ISLAND lies l miles from Whang head, the east extreme of
Chusan, and the channel between is called by the Chinese Leenhwa-yang,
or the sea of water lilies. The. island is 3^ miles long, north and south,
and in one place only half a mile across. The temples on it are
numerous, but the two largest, which are on its eastern side, are falling
into decay. A narrow projecting point extends from the eastern side of
the island, forming to the southward a deep sandy bay, in which there are
3 fathoms water ; the islet off the point has a sunken rock lying on its
eastern side. The western face of Putu .is shoal, the 1\ fathoms line of
soundings being 3 cables from the shore. A smaller islet with rocks to the
northward of it lies off the north end of Putu ; vessels may pass between
the rocks and the islet.
Water. A stream runs into the above bay, on the eastern side of
Putu, and it might be used should the well at the south side of the island
prove dry. This stream runs in a small sandy bay to the westward
of a hill with three chimneys on it, and may be known by a small joss
house. The landing place of the pilgrims is at a causeway east of
the well bay.
CHAP. vi.] CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO; CHUSAN ISLAND. 165
ANCHORAGE There is anchorage off the eastern side of Putu in 1 2
and 14 fathoms water, but several vessels have had a difficulty in pur-
chasing their anchors ; it is also much exposed, and by no means desirable
in bad weather.
ISTHMUS ISLAND is three-quarters of a mile from the north-east
point of Putu, and the channel between has deep water. A half tide
rock lies 4 cables from the south-east point of the Isthmus, with the east
and south-east extremes of Putu in one bearing S.W. f S., and the south
summit of Isthmus W. ^ N.
To the eastward of the south point of Putu, and off the north-east
end of Chukea, are four islands named Loka, Pih-sha, Lakeah, and
Lakeati. There is a passage between them and Chukea, and a good
channel between them and Putu.
N.E. ISLAND and xrxurEPXxr ROCKS. N.E. island is a conical rock,
in form something like a haycock, lying N.E. E. 2 miles from the north-
east end of Isthmus island. The Ninepin are four pinnacle rocks with
reefs around them, lying a mile to the south-eastward of N.E. island, and
N.E. by E. ^ E. 5 miles from the summit of Putu island.
BAST ISLET and EAST ROCK lie respectively 6 and 7 miles to
the eastward of Putu. The islet is 30 feet above the sea, and from it,
Loka, the northernmost of the islands on the north-east face of Chukea,
bears W. by S. East rock, which is nearly awash at low water, lies
E. by S. 2 miles from East islet, with Tongting islet bearing S. by E. E.
7 miles, and the summit of Putu (which will be known by a look-out
house on its summit, and the high land of Chusan forming a table top
at the back of it) W. by N. N. This rock forms the southern horn of
Lansew bay ; Video island, Fishermans group, and the chain of islands
to the westward, bounding the bay to the northward.
A description will now be given of Chusan island, with directions for ap-
proaching Ting-hai ; after which the north part of the Chusan archipelago.
CHUSAN ISLAND, so called from its supposed resemblance to a boat,
is 5H miles in circumference ; its extreme length in a N.W. and S.E.
direction being 20f miles, and its greatest breadth 10^ miles. From the
beach at Ting-hai on the south side of the island to the northern shore,
the distance across is 7 miles ; towards the east end it becomes narrower.
The island is beautifully diversified with hill and dale and well cultivated.
Of the numerous small streams which run from the mountains, the most
considerable is the Tung kiang which falls into Ting-hai harbour. The
products arc rice, millet, wheat, sweet potatoes, and yams ; the tea plant
is found everywhere, but is treated with little or no care. The cotton
166 NIMROD SOUND TO THE YANG-TSE KIANG. [CHAP. vi.
plant is largely cultivated near the sea. Besides the harbour of Ting-hai
there are three other commercial ports, viz., Chinkeamun at the south-east
end of the island, Ching Keang on the north-west side, and Shaaon at the
north end.
The town of Ting-hai is If miles in circumference and is surrounded by
a wall 14 feet high and 13 feet wide, surmounted by a parapet 14^ feet
high and 2 feet wide. The southern face runs east and west ; the west
face north and south ; and the eastern face north 350 yards, and then
north-west. A canal, 33 feet wide and 3 feet deep, nearly encircles the
city, and enters it near the south gate, which is about half a mile from the
shore of the harbour. Canals form the principal means of transportation,
the roads being merely footpaths on the stone embankments which prevent
the encroachment of the sea on the rice fields. Every large field has its
canal for the purpose of carrying away the produce.
The population of the town and suburbs at the commencement of 1843
was about 27,500, but in 1846 it had increased to 35,000 ; the population
of the entire island was estimated at 200,000. The principal exports are,
fish, coarse black tea, cotton, vegetable tallow, sweet potatoes, and some
wheat.
water. The water is not good at Ting-hai, and is sometimes scarce,
the tanks in the rice fields near the sea being the only supply, excepting
wells, which afford but a limited quantity ; no running streams were found.
The place latterly adopted for watering by the squadron during the
China expedition in 18401843, was in the bay westward of Chuh or
Guardhouse isle.
WINDS and WEATHER. The following is a meteorological abstract
deduced from monthly registers, kept at Chusan during the period the
island was occupied by the English troops in 1840 :
The climate of Chusan is subject to a range of temperature similar to
that in the same latitude upon the coast of North America ; the thermo-
meter in the shade standing at 103 in September, and at 25 in February.
September was generally fine, only four rainy days for short periods ;
1*8 in. of rain fell. The barometer generally standing below 30 inches ;
falling in strong south-easterly, and rising with northerly winds ; height
of the cistern above the sea 72 ft. 7 in. Very strong breezes were not
experienced during this month. Winds easterly 10 days, south-easterly
6 days, north-easterly 8 days, and north-westerly 6 days. Range of
thermometer 103 to 65.
The first 10 days of October were fine, the remainder of the month
overcast ; weather squally, much rain during the last week. Except the
four first days of this month, the barometer was never below 30 inches,
and rose as high a? 30*335 in., rising with fresh winds from the north-
CHAP. vi.] CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO; CHUSAN ISLAND. 167
west. The winds variable, changing frequently during the 24 hours ;
they were from the North 6 days, N.E. 12 days, N.W. 9 days, and
4 days from S.E. to S.W. On the 29th the meteorological instruments
were removed to the suburbs, where the height of the cistern of the
barometer above mean tide level was 24 feet. Range of thermometer
92 to 51.
November was generally overcast with rain, the barometer in easterly
winds fell below 30 inches. Winds were N.E. 2. days, N.N.W. 8 days
N.W. 4 days, northerly 4 days, westerly 4 days, S.S.W. 2 days, and calm
4 days. Range of thermometer 74 to 40.
In December the weather was finer than last month ; the barometer
kept very high, being 30*588 inches on the 10th ; winds light from the
N.W. ; the mercury generally rose as the wind freshened from that
quarter, and during calms fell to 30 '02 inches. Winds south-westerly
half a day, westerly 2^ days, north-westerly 15 days, north-easterly half
a day, northerly 5^ days, easterly 1 day, and calm 6 days ; much rain
during the last week. Range of thermometer 77 to 27.
During January the weather was misty with much rain ; barometer
ranging from 30 '606 to 30*084 inches, falling previously to south-
easterly winds. Snow the last two days. Winds fresh with squalls ; from
the N.W. 20^ days, West 2 days, S.W. 1 day, S.E. 1 day, North 2| days,
and calm 2| days. Range of thermometer 60 to 28.
February was generally fine ; winds N.W. 5^ days, North 2^ days,
S.W. 1 day, S.E. 2^ days, calm 5 days. Range of thermometer 60 to 25.
The greatest range of temperature during 24 hours was 28 . During
January, the barometer was at the height of 30*606 inches, and generally
fell in light or easterly winds. - A few days south-easterly winds occurred
in September, but the northerly monsoon could not be said to have
commenced until the beginning of October. The following are the number
of rainy days in each month : September 4 days, October 3 days, Novem-
ber 12 days, December 7 days, January 11 days, February 3 days.
TINTG-HAI HARBOUR, formed on the south side of Chusan, is fronted
by many small islands, between which are the several channels leading
to it. The outermost and westernmost island is Ta-maou or Tower-hill ;
east of which and distant 1 and 4 miles respectively are Teijo or Elephant
island, and Pih-lou. Within, or to the northward of these, reckoning
from the westward, are the islands called Ha-tse or Bell, Pwanche or
Tea, Seaou-keu or Deer, and Ao-shan. The two small islands Tawu or
Trumball, and Wae-wu or Macclesfield, lie inshore or to the north-east of
Tea island, and there are many small islands and rocks among those larger
ones just named.
168 NIMROD SOUND TO THE YANG-TSE KIANG. [CHAP. vi.
The harbour is difficult of access in all its approaches, owing to the
strong tides and sunken rocks. The best approach is through Tower-hill
and Bell channels, between Tower-hill and Bell islands, and between
the latter island and Tea island, in which no hidden danger has been
found ; the tides, however, are strong, and sailing vessels in light winds
must be careful that they are not set by their influence between Tea and
Elephant islands, where the ground is foul and the narrow channels
deep.*
DIRECTIONS through TOWER BZZiZi CHANNEL. The best approach
to Ting-hai harbour for large or unhandy vessels is through Tower Hill
channel. Unless favoured by a commanding breeze and neap tides, they
ought not to take the channel between Roundabout island and Ketau point,
as the tides run there with great strength. After passing eastward of
Roundabout steer to pass a convenient distance from the south extreme of
Tower Hill island. Should the tide fail, anchorage will be found under
the islands to the eastward of Tygosan island ; for which purpose pass
3 cables to the southward of Square Stone islet, to avoid the reef lying
1^ cables to the S.W. of it, and anchor before the channel between Little
Tygosan and Chuen-pi islands opens, as the water shoals suddenly off
the east end of Entrance island, the islet to the south-westward.
Having rounded Tower Hill island, haul up, steering first for Bell
island then for Tea island. The soundings in Bell channel, between Bell
and Tower Hill islands, vary from 30 to 40 fathoms, except ofi' the north-
west end of the latter, where there is a mud bank with 3 fathoms over
it, extending 1^ cables from the shore.
Good anchorage will be found in 10 and 12 fathoms water between
Bell and Tea islands, but vessels intending to remain here should not
open the channel between Bell island and Chusan, as the tides are
stronger and the ground loose. On proceeding from hence to Ting-hai
harbour, take care to avoid the Nab, a sunken rock with 14 feet over it at
low water, lying 2 cables from the Chusan shore, and South of a small
hillock in the valley near the shore ; the marks for it are Taching point,
the west extreme of Tea island, in one with the east side of Taewang or
Bell rock, S. ^ W., and the south point of Guardhouse isle nearly in line
with the summit of Trumball island. A 3 fathoms patch also lies about
31 cables W.S.W. of the Nab, and E. by N. ^ N. nearly 4 cables from
Ap-tan-shan island.
The anchorage, named Spithead, on the Chusan shore, between the
Nab rock and Guardhouse isle, will be found a convenient place for
* Sec Chart : Chusan Archipelago, North Sheet, No. 1,969 ; scale, m = 0-8 of an
inch : and Ting-hai Harbour, No. 1,395 ; scale, m = 4 inches.
CHAT, vi.] CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO ; CHUSAN ISLAND. 169
watering ; the anchoring ground is steep-to, and the tides are irregular,
and off the entrance to the watering creek is a mud flat, having 3 fathoms
on it at low water. With light winds, vessels should avoid the strength
of the ebb when passing through the channel between Tea and Guard-
house islands, which otherwise is liable to set them through the southern
or Melville channel. A ledge of rocks covered at high Avater, extends
a cable's length from the high water mark at Kouching point, the north
extreme of Tea island.
In proceeding towards Ting-hai harbour, and being abreast of Guard-
house isle, steer towards Macclesfield island, taking care to avoid the
Middle Ground, which has only 2 feet on its shoalest part. Tower Hill
in line with the slope on the southern rise of Tea island will lead along
the southern edge of this shoal, in 4 fathoms. The Wae-wu channel is
only 2f cables wide between the 3 fathoms line on the edge of the Middle
Ground and Wae-wu island. The usual anchorage is abreast of Taotau,
the suburb of Ting-hai, but vessels must moor as the eddies are strong.
The channel between Chusan and Guardhouse isle is only fit for boats.
CAUTION. Spring tides set at the rate of 3 and 3^ knots per hour in
the Tower Hill channel, and with light winds and a strong flood vessels
have been swept away to the westward, and carried by the tide beyond
Just-in-the-Way, and even through the Blackwall channel ; and after
rounding Tower Hill and entering the Bell channel many have been
borne by the ebb amongst the islands between Tower Hill and Elephant
island, or between the latter and Tea Island, where the channels are
narrow, the water deep, and the ground foul. In these cases the bower
anchors and chains should not be used, but a good kedge and stout haAvser,
which (as the holding ground is good and if care be taken to con the
vessel and not break her sheer) will bring a vessel up and prevent her
being driven into these narrow passages, where some have been brought
up in from 30 to 40 fathoms water, with two anchors down and three or
four round turns in their hawse.
Having rounded the north end of Tea island with a strong ebb, it is
necessary to guard against its taking the vessel through the Melville
channel, and if not able to pass to the northward of Macclesfield island,
send the boats a-head and endeavour to keep the vessel to the northward
of Takeu and Sarah islands, where the water is not so deep.
Through MEXiVXXiXiE CHANNEXi The Melville or southern passage
to Ting-hai harbour is between Elephant and Deer islands, but as two
sunken rocks lie in the centre of the channel and narrow it to If cables,
it should not be attempted unless there is a commanding breze, and the
mariner has a thorough knowledge of their position. Its navigation is
170 NIMROD SOUND TO THE YANG-TSE KIANG. [CHAP. vi.
rendered more difficult in the neighbourhood of these dangers by the tidal
streams, which, rushing through four different channels into this, form
eddies which render a vessel unmanageable even with a good breeze at the
springs. In taking it at the neaps, a boat will be found useful a-head.
The entrance to this channel will be easily recognized by Elephant
island, which is remarkable from a curious crag near the summit ; and
by a cone-topped island, named Fating, to the N.N.E. of it. There is
anchorage in the southern part of the channel between Elephant and Tung
islet, in 16 and 18 fathoms ; but the holding ground is not good. Beyond
Round island, which lies 4 cables from the north-east point of Elephant,
the water deepens to 28 and 40 fathoms to the southern rock, on which
H.M.S. Melville struck in 1840.
The Melville rock, which has only 10 feet water over it, lies S.E.b. E. E.
2 cables from the Black rock, and E. by N. ^ N. If cables from the rocky
ledge extending towards it from Ledge island, and which covers at half
tide ; the marks for it are the Cap rock in line with the saddle of Kintang
island, bearing W. by N., and the Joss house on the hill near the suburbs
of Ting-hai showing between Trumball and Sarah islands, N. ^ E. The
northern or Dundas rock, is a small patch, about 30 feet by 20 feet in
extent, lying N. ^ W., If cables from Melville rock, and N.E. by E. f E.
2 cables from the Black rock, and the least water on it is 9 feet; the marks
for it are, a bushy tree on the eastern slope of Ta-keu island, in line with
the middle beacon on Tsingluy Tau or Beacon hill, N.E. E., and the north
end of the Black rock on with the south side of Cap rock W.S.W.
From Roundabout island a N.W. l N. course for 4^ miles will lead to
the entrance of the Melville channel. Pass on either side of Round island,
and when to the northward of it keep its east extreme touching Trunk
point, bearing S. ^ W., and this mark will lead between the Melville rock
and Ledge island, and between the Dundas rock and Black rock, rather
westward of mid-channel. When clear of the Dundas keep in mid-channel,
and when abreast the south end of Sarah island steer for the west end of
Macclesfield island, which should be rounded rather close to avoid the
Middle Ground, the southern edge of which, in 3 fathoms, is only 2|
cables distant. A rock, covered at high water, lies barely a cable's length
from the northern face of Macclesfield.
Through DEER ISLAND CHANNEI.. Ting-hai linrbour may also
be entered from the eastward by passing between Deer and Takeu islands,
which are \\ cables apart. The Melville and Dundas rocks will be
avoided by keeping Deer island aboard, but it must be borne in mind
that neither shore of the channel is steep-to. The Beacon rock, awash at
high water, to the north-east of Takeu, may be passed on either side; and
from thence steer for the Chusan shore, keeping a cable's length to the
. vi.] CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO; CHUSAN ISLAND. 171
eastward of Grave island until the harbour beacon opens north of it,
when it can be steered for, passing between it and the Chusan shore,
keeping the latter aboard, until Takeu island is shut in by Trumball
island.
This passage, although narrower is superior to the Melville channel, as
vessels have the tide in their favour all the way. The principal objection
to its use is the liability to flaws of wind under Deer island; but the main
point to be guarded against is the flood from the eastern channels carrying
them so far westward as not to fetch far enough to the eastward of Grave
island. There is convenient anchorage between Trumball and Takeu
islands, in 8 and 10 fathoms. A spit extends from the south-east end of
Trumball, the 3 fathoms line being 3 cables distant from the shore ; the
south end of Macclesfield island, open of the summit of Tea island, will
lead south of it.
The CHANNEL between BELL ISLAND and CHUSAN is UOt jvroin-
mended, owing to the tides, which attain the rate of o knots at springs.
Nearly mid-channel is a half tide rock, named Kwa-fau, with a stone
beacon on it ; and to the S.W. of the beacon is a 9 feet patch lying
with the south end of Kwo-kan, the westernmost of the two islets on the
Chusan shore, in line with the south end of Kiddisol island. Neither is
the north end of Bell island steep-to, consequently, should a vessel use
this passage, the channel between the beacon and the Chusan shore should
be preferred to that between the beacon and Bell island.
ISLAND, which has a patch of 2f fathoms off its south-
west end, lies 2 cables to the southward of Yanglo point, the south-west
extreme of Chusan, with a deep water channel between, but the eddies
are violent at the springs. From hence to Sinkong point, 4 miles to the
N. W. by N., the coast line of Chusan is mud, with the exception of a
small hillock at the edge of low water.*
ANCHORAGE in 10 and 12 fathoms will be found all along the Chusan
shore between Yanglo and Sinkong points, but in standing towards the
shore bear in mind that the water shoals suddenly after 10 fathoms.
CHING XEANG HARBOUR, <>n the western side of Chusaii and
distant 7 miles in a direct line from Ting-hai, is formed by the islands
Wa-teo, Lin, and Latea, (that is to say Outer, Middle, and Inner Hook)
and Chusan. Upon the islands, and on the point near the entrance, are
extensive stone quarries. A white rock lies off the south-west point
of Wa-teo, and a mud spit extends from the island nearly to the rock.
* See Chart of Kintang Channel. No. 1,770 ; scale, m = 1 2 inches.
172 NIMROD SOUND TO THE YANG-TSE KIANG. [CHAP. vi.
Between Wa-teo and Chusan the entrance to the channel is 6 cables wide
with 7 and 8 fathoms water in it, forming a snug anchorage much
frequented by the junks as a stopping place, and defended from pirates
by a fort. Abreast of Lin the channel is less than a cable wide, with 7
fathoms water. The town stands on the banks of a stream on the
Chusan shore, which at high tide is navigable for boats. Here the
channel is also less than a cable wide, and the depth from 5 to 4
fathoms.
STEWARD ROCK, 50 feet above the sea, lies in the middle of Black-
wall channel, between Chusan and Kintang island. The depths are
45 fathoms in its vicinity, except at 2 cables to the eastward, where
there is a rocky patch on which the least water that has been found is
9 fathoms.
XINTANG or SILVER ISLAND lies between the west end of Chusan
and the entrance of the Yung or Ning-po river. Near its south-east
extreme is a remarkable saddle hill 1,432 feet high, which with the Cap
rock forms one of the marks for the Melville rock (p. 170); there is also
another remarkable peak, 1,520 feet high, rising at 1^ miles to the north -
Avard of the saddle hill.
Alligator point, the south end of Kintang, has a reef, which covers
at half tide, extending 2 cables to the southward ; and off' Algerine
point, the south-east extreme of the island, is an islet connected at low
tide by a mud flat, from which a ledge of rocks extends 8.S.E. 2 cables,
the south end covering at high water. The eastern face of the island is
bold-to, without any anchorage along it.
TA-OUTSE HARBOUR. Off the north end of Kintang there is a group
of seven islets, amongst which there is anchorage ; and off the north-
west end is Taping island, to the southward of which is the small harbour
of Ta-outse, which affords good anchorage in 7 to 10 fathoms. The
entrance is between Kintang and Ta-outse island, and the channel is
barely 2 cables wide. Between Ta-outse and Taping there are not more
than 8 feet at low water.
* " Ta-outs-e harbour is small, but affords good anchorage, and may
be recommended as a sanitary station for vessels obliged to make a
lengthened stay in the Yung river. Supplies of all kinds can be readily
obtained by native boats from Ning-po fu. Kintang is well cultivated
and produces abundant supplies, but they all appear to be sent to Ning-po."
BLACXWALL CHANNEL. Tsih-tze or Black wall island, which gives
its name to this channel, is about six miles in circumference, and divides
* Captain C. F. A. Shadwell, H.M.S. Highflyer, 1858.
CHAP, vi.] CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO ; CHUSAN ISLAND. 173
the northern entrance into two passages, one between Blackwall island and
the north-east end of Kintang, called Blackwall pass, and the other between
the four islets on the Chusan shore and Blackwall, named Ketsu pass. The
southern entrance, between Kiddisol and the south-east end of Kintang,
is nearly 5 miles wide, and just within it is the Steward rock described
above.
From the anchorage off Sinkong point the distance through the Black -
wall pass is 6 miles, and no anchorage will be found until to the
northward of Blackwall island near Cliff islet, but this is exposed to
northerly winds. This pass is three-quarters of a mile wide, and in
it the eddies are so strong that vessels have been turned round in a
double-reefed topsail breeze. Hondo, a small islet, lies off the south-west
end of Blackwall island, and there is deep water between them, but the
Kintang side will be found the best to border on. There is a long bay
on the Blackwall side, from the north end of which, Blackwall point, a
reef extends westerly H cables ; to avoid it do not open the Steward rock
to the eastward of Rondo islet.
Between Blackwall and Chusan is a flat island named Ketsu, and the
channel between it and Blackwall is 3 cables wide, but not recommended
as the tides are strong, and a sunken rock lies 1^ cables from the north-
east point of Blackwall. Between Ketsu and Chusan the channel is only
a cable wide, and neither shore is steep-to.
BROKEN ISLAND, which is connected at low water to the north-west
extreme of Chusan by a mud bank, is steep-to on its north-eastern side.
Crack islet lies about half a mile from its north point, and between them
is a narrow channel carrying a depth of 5 to 8 fathoms, but it is not
calculated for vessels of large draught, as a bank with 6 to 18 feet on it
extends a mile from the north-west point of Broken island. A mud spit
runs off north-westerly 4 cables from Crack islet.
N.W. 3^ miles from Broken island is a group of low islets called
Dunsterville, which may be approached as convenient, the depth of water
between them and Crack islet varying from 5 to 4 fathoms. The tides are
strong in this neighbourhood, the flood running to the west, and the ebb
to the east.
SHAAOHT HARBOUR, or North bay, formed between Chang-pih or
Fisher island, and the north end of Ghusan, is 2 miles long, If miles wide,
and has a varying depth from 5 to 9 fathoms. Broken island, as before
stated, is steep-to on its north-east side, but shoal water extends half a
mile from the west end of Chang-pih. The southern shore of Chang-pih
is an extensive mud bank, a considerable portion of which has been
174 NIMROD SOUND TO THE YANG-TSE KIANG. [CHAP. vi.
enclosed from the sea by embankment ; the water is shoal off its south-east
end, the 3 fathoms line being half a mile from the shore.*
The shore of Chusan is bordered by a mud bank, which renders landing,
unless at high water, difficult, except in one place near the eastern end of
the harbour, where there is a causeway. Near the causeway are some
houses, but the principal village is situated some distance up the valley.
A small islet lies off the north end of Chang-pih, and a group of islets,
named Cluster or Midway islands, off the north-east end.
DIRECTIONS from SH A AON HARBOUR through XWEI CHANNEL.
Vessels bound to the eastward from Shaaon harbour may pass either
through the Kwei channel, between Lan-sew or Sheppey island and
Chusan, or to the northward of Lan-sew, which is the better channel of
the two, but both are difficult for a stranger. A sunken rock lies on the
Chusan shore S.E. 2 miles from the south-east point of Chang-pih, and
from it the south extreme of Chang-pih bears W. ^ N., the largest of the
Cluster islets N. ^ W., and the summit of Lan-sew E. by N. % N.
The Houbland islets are between Chang-pih and Lan-sew, but nearer
to the latter ; the Kwei channel is between them and two rocks lying on
the Chusan shore off Ma-aou point, and then south of Grain or Sewshari
islet, which lies 2 cables from the south point of Lan-sew. The channel
here is 2 cables wide, being formed between the small islet with a reef off
its south-east end, lying south of Grain islet and Kanlan point on the
Chusan shore, and it should not be attempted during the strength of the
tide. There is another channel, named the Kwimun, closer to the Chusan
yhore ; it is, however, crooked and there is a sunken rock near the centre.
The island of Lan-sew appears formerly to have been two ; the inter-
vening space having been gained from the sea by embanking ; it is now
called by the Chinese Lan-shan and Saw-shan, and is 3^ miles long, and
2^ miles broad.
Through CHANNEL NORTH of LAN-SEW To pass north of Lan-
sew when leaving the anchorage in Shaaon harbour by the Chang-pih
channel, steer about N.E. b. E. for Kwi-si, a barren island with a round
peak upon it. The south-east side of this island is steep-to, and the dis-
tance between it and the north-west point of Lan-sew is 1^ miles ; a mud
bank dries ty miles from the western side of the latter, and is steep-to, the
lead giving no warning, but its northern edge will be avoided by keeping
the north end of Mo-un islet (the largest islet off the north end of Lau-sew)
open northward of the north extreme of Lan-sew.
Having passed Kwi-si steer for Kwan island, which must be kept close
aboard, to avoid a reef which lies half a mile to the southward and covers
* See Plan of North Bay, No. 1,744: scale, m = I2 inchet.
CHAP. YI.] CHU8AN ARCHIPELAGO ; CHUSAN ISLAND. 175
at high water ; from the reef Kwi-si hill bears W. b. N., and the highest
part of Lan-sew S.S.W. W. ; the ground between this reef and Lan-sew
is foul. Although the channel is half a mile wide it is difficult to shoot
owing to the eddy tides and flaws off Kwan. When the reef is passed
take care to avoid a ledge of rocks extending a short distance from tin-
north- west point of Mo-un, which bounds the channel to the southward.
To the eastward of Kwan are nine islands lying off the south-east end of
Tae-shan ; a reef lies off the southern end of the first. From thence an
East course may be steered along the southern coast of Keu-shan island
and the Fishermans group.
ANCHORAGE. Vessels wishing to anchor on the east side of Lan-sew
island may haul to the southward after passing the first islet east of
Mo-un, running between it and Gan-ching, a cluster of rocks to the
eastward. At the east end of Lan-sew is a low cliff, named Harty
island, which may be passed at a cable's length, and anchorage will then
be found in 5 fathoms ; the water shoaling gradually towards the shore.
H. M. S. Pylades anchored here in 5^ fathoms, with the east end of
Harty island bearing N. f W. and distant 6 cables, and Grain islet
S.W. b. W. In the northerly monsoon there is a better anchorage at
7 miles to the north-eastward in Peaked Rock bay, on the southern shore
of Keu-shan.
CLIFFS and nous ROCKS. To the eastward of Lan-sew, at the
distance of 2 miles and 5 miles respectively, are two cliff islets, called Cliffs
and Doub rocks. South 2 cables from Cliffs, the western islet, is a ledge
of rocks nearly awash at high water, and in its neighbourhood the ground
is foul ; there are rocks, also, which show at low water, lying 1^ cables
from the north-east point of the same islet.
xr.E. and EAST COASTS of CHITS Air. The north-east coast of
Chusan, eastward of Lan-sew, trends to the S.E. for 11 miles to Whang
head, a low peninsula forming the east end of Chusau. At the distance
of 3 miles is Thornton island, with a narrow passage between it and
Chusan, and a deep bay westward of it, in which the mud dries out a long
way, rendering it difficult to land except at the extreme points ; an islet
and rocks lie off the north-east face of Thornton. At 2| miles farther
to the S.E. is a larger island, named Tsae, with a remarkable fall in the
hills near its centre ; a small islet lies a mile to the westward of the islets
off its north end. The Chusan shore in this locality is shoal-to, there
being only \\ fathoms between this islet and the coast.
To the eastward of Tsae island are three islands at the distance of half,
\\, and 3 miles. The nearest, named Meih-yun, the largest of the three,
has a patch of rocks lying N.N. W. 4 cables from its north point. Meib-
176 NIMROD SOUND TO THE YANQ-TSE KIANG. [CHAP. vi.
ting, the central islet, has a pinnacle rock lying E. b. N. half a mile from
it, and a rocky patch at 2 cables to the westward of its north extreme.
The outer islet, Jow rock, is a narrow cliff with a rock lying a cable's
length from its north side.
From Tsae island to Whang head the distance is 4^ miles ; half
way between the two is a low island, named Ta-chen, and the depth
of water in* its vicinity is 3 fathoms. A reef lies three quarters
of a mile to the south-east of Ta-chen, and a quarter of a mile from
the Chusan shore, with the north-east point of Ta-chen in one with
north-east point of Tsae island N.N.W., and the north end of the Putu
group E. b. N.
The north-west and west face of Putu island (described in page 164)
is shoal-to, leaving, however, a channel between it and Whang head
nearly a mile wide. The northern part of this channel has only 4
fathoms in it," and in working through, when southward of Whang head,
do not bring the head to the eastward of North, as the Chusan shore is
shoal.
The channel off the south-east end of Chusan is 2 cables wide, and in
the centre of it is a reef with a stone pillar on it. The flat extending
towards Putu island has only 1^ fathoms on it at low water, and some
hard casts ; therefore vessels drawing over 12 feet should not attempt
this passage, but use the Sarah Galley channel, page 162. In working
up from the southward between Lokea and Kin-ho island, bear in mind
that the shoal water extends 3^ cables from the former, and 6 cables
from the latter ; the above pillar or beacon in one with a cliff islet to the
northward of it, is a good mid-channel mark. After passing westward of
the beacon bring the cliff islet in line with a building on Whang head ;
this will lead over the flat in the deepest Avater, and when the south end
of Putu bears East it may be steered for.
CHINK.EAIYZUN HARBOUR is at the son t li-r;isf end of Chusan,
and carries on a considerable fishery to the eastward of Putu island ;
about 35 junks, each having from 30 to 35 men, and 250 smaller
boats, averaging 5 men each, are employed for this purpose, and the
proceeds are carried principally to Ning-po, the fish being preserved in
ice during the summer. The harbour, formed between the island of
Lokea and the Chusan shore, is ! cables wide with 4 and 5 fathoms
water in it abreast the town. The south-west entrance to the harbour,
between Lokea and Maoutze island, has not more than 2 fathoms
in it at low water ; the mud extends westerly 4^ cables from the former
island, and a rock lies S.S.E. a cable's length from the east end of
Maoutze.
CHAP, vi.] CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO; VIDEO ISLAND. 177
H.M.S. Pylades anchored between Maoutze and Chusan, in 5 fathoms,
the width of the channel being 2 cables ; the high land, 600 feet high,
on the Chusan side occasioned the squalls at times to be very violent.
H.MS. Conway anchored eastward of Lokea, with Liwan island, which
has two rocks off its south end, (page 163,) bearing West three-quarters
of a mile in 5 fathoms at low water.
The distance from Chinkeamun to Ting-hai harbour is 11^ miles. The
Shei-luh channel along the southern shore of Chusan has deep water in
it, but in some places it is so narrow as to be practicable only for small
steam vessels or boats.
The principal islands bounding the south side of this channel are,
(reckoning from the eastward,) Maoutze, Ta-kan, Yin-gar, and Ao-shan.
Between Ta-kan and Maoutze there are not more than 6 feet at low water,
and the same depth between the two tatter ; between Ao-shan and Deer
island there is a deep water channel, but it is confined by mud banks and
obstructed by reefs.
BAT is formed between the islets and rocks off the north-
east face of Chusan and the extensive chain of islands running in a
W.N.W. direction from Video island. The navigation of the southern
part of this bay, from the north-west point of Chusan to Putu island, has
been noticed in page 174 ; the northern part, beginning at Video, will
now be described, and also the anchorages which may be useful to a vessel
proceeding to Ning-po or Chusan in the northerly monsoon.
The NORTHERN PART of the CHTJSATJ ARCHXPE&AGO consists of
numerous islands and rocks, extending a considerable distance to the north-
ward of Chusan, and fronting the northern part of Hang-chu bay. All of
them are inhabited, with the exception of the Barren isles and Leuconna,
and small supplies may be obtained, but the natives, except at Tae-shan
island, are in a very miserable condition, owing to the constant visitation
of pirates. Many good anchorages will be found among them ; the depths
on the sm-rounding banks varying from 5 to 17 fathoms, deepening to 25
and 30 fathoms on the outer part of the bank.
As vessels bound to the Yang-tse kiang pass to the eastward of [this
archipelago, and as, in the northern monsoon, they endeavour to make
the island of Video if they cannot weather the Barren isles, we shall
commence with these latter islands, and then continue the description
to the westward.
VIDEO ISLAND, in lat. 30 8' N., long. 122 46' E., bears E.N.E.
21 miles from the summit of Putu. It is about 500 feet high, nearly
square, and has a bold precipitous appearance and a remarkable white
Co.]
178 NIMROD SOUND TO THE YANG-TSE KIANG. [CHAP. vr.
cliff, which shows when the island bears N.W. by N. ; when first seen
from the south-west it appears flat and shelving.
E. by N. ^ N. 5 miles from Video are four rocks called the Four Sisters;
and E. by N. 9 miles from Video are two rocks named the Brothers.
The depth of water in this vicinity is above 30 fathoms ; any cast, there-
fore, below that depth will, in thick weather, point out that a vessel is
among the chain of islands.
LXHTCONNA ISLAND bears N.N.E. E. 18 miles from Video, and
when seen from the southward it makes like three ' abrupt round topped
hummocks.
BEEHIVE ROCK, 35 feet high, has a rock awash lying 3 cables
to the eastward, and a depth of 14 and 16 fathoms around it. From
it Leuconna bears E. by N. f N. 12 miles, and Video S. by E. E.
12f miles.
BARREN' ISLES, three in number, are three-quarters of a mile in
extent, east and west, and about 50 feet high, and at 2 cables to the
south-eastward of the eastern isle is a reef* awash at high water.
They lie E. N. 16 miles from East Saddle island, and N.N.E. E.
20 miles from Leuconna, and their position is lat. 30 43' N., long.
123 T 14" E.
GROUP. From Video island a chain of islands extends
W. by N. -^ N. 45 miles, terminating in the Volcano islands facing
Hang-chu bay. Between Video and the Fishermans group, the first
islands westward, there is a channel 2 miles wide ; but among the
Fishermans group (consisting of four islets and several rocks) vessels
ought not to go. Perhaps the best channel through this chain is close to
the westward of this group, S.S.W. \ W. 9^ miles from the Beehive.
The channels between any of the intervening islands ought not to be
attempted, as, from the character of the land, there are, no doubt, many
sunken rocks.
ANCHORAGE Shelter will be found under Hall island, at 7 miles
westward of Fishermans group ; but a vessel had better go on to Keu-shan
island, and anchor in Peaked Rock bay to the westward of Eden point
(page 175), bearing in mind that the head of the bay is shoal. Along
the southern side of Keu-shan are several islets and rocks, to which a
berth of 2 cables' lengths should be given.
TAE-SHAN CHANNEL The channel between the Doub and Cliffs
rocks (page 175) and the west end of Keu-shan island is 1^ miles
* This reef appeared to extend three-quarters of a mile to the south-east of the isle.
Edward H. Hills, Master of H.M.S. Hiyhflyer, June 1859.
CHAP. vi.] CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO; FISHERMANS GROUP. 1/9
wide. From the Cliffs the southern entrance to the Tae-shan channel
bears North, and is formed by the islets of Pou-no and Pou-ti to
the west, and Funing island, with the Cliff islet south of it, to
the east ; off the west end of the latter is a reef, covered at high
water. N.W. b. W. 6 cables from Funing are two low rocks, and the
channel between them and Funing is shallow. North, 3 cables from
these rocks, is the south point of Chang-tau island, which is not steep-to ;
but north of the rocks there is a narrow channel, named Chang-tau strait,
carrying 5 fathoms.
The Tae-shan channel, formed between Chang-tau and Tae-shan
islands, is a mile wide. Both shores are shoal-to, and a sunken rock
lies S.S.E. 2 cables from the projecting point on the Tae-shan shore.
A mile to the N.E. of this point is Gan-su island, which has a double
peak on it, and there are two islets on each side ; the channel lies
between it and Chang-tau, under the north head of which is a low
rock. Chang-tau peak rises to the height of 920 feet above the sea over
the west side of the island, rendering it one of the most conspicuous
objects of the chain.
The directions for passing south of Tae-shan island, between Kwan and
Lan-sew islands, have already been given in page 174 ; but it remains to
describe Tae-shan and the channels between it and the Volcano islands.
TAE-SHAN ISLAND, 8 miles long and 5 miles broad, and the third
in point of size in the archipelago, those of Chusan and Luhwang being
larger, is very populous, and carries on an extensive salt manufactory
from sea water. The centre of the island is an extensive plain, with
many villages ; the hills also separate near the eastern extreme, leaving
a level plain across the island. Off the south-east end of the island are
nine islets, among which vessels have no business to go. There is a
passage close to the eastward of Kwan island ; but owing to strong tides
and the flaws under the bluff land of this island, vessels had better pass
south of it and between Kwan and Kwi-si islands, where there is a
chancel a mile wide ; the mud dries 3 cables from the west end of
Kwan.
To the northward of Kwan and Kwi-si islands are three islets ; the
best channel is between Ning and Kwi-si, after which a vessel can haul
up for the Tae-shan shore and anchor in 4 or 5 fathoms off Wou-hou
creek, observing that there is a reef which covers at first-quarter flood,
lying with the summit of Kwi-si bearing S. by E. 2^ miles, and Ellicott
isle W. by S. S. 2 miles ; the north end of Peshan islet in line with
the north point of Kwan island bearing E. by S. S., will lead south of it.
The mouth of Wou-hou creek bears N.E. 6 miles from the summit of
Chang-pih island ; it was here that the Chinese forces assembled in 1841
M 2
180 NIMROD SOUND TO THE YANG-TSE KIANG. [CHAP. vi.
for the retaking of Chusan. The creek runs through the centre of the
island, but is not accessible to large boats at low water. There is another
creek near a village farther westward, but with these exceptions the
whole face of this side of Tae-shan is difficult of access in consequence
of the mud drying a long way from the shore.
At Tautau point, the west end of Tae-shan, the hills come down to the-
water's edge, and midway between it and Chang-pih are Miles and
Ellicott isles, with 5 and 7 fathoms in their vicinity. The Show
islands, one of which is -high, lie 6 cables westward of Tautau point ;
the channel between having 4 fathoms at low water. On the north side
of Tae-shan are four islets, which are too small to afford much protection
in the North-east monsoon, but during the summer good anchorage will
be found off the town near the centre of the island.
VOLCANO ISLANDS. The East Volcano, which has four peaks on
it and is the largest of the group, lies 6 miles westward of Tautau
point, and is 4 miles long north and south. East of its south point is
an islet ; and between it and the Show islands are two islets lying close
together, with steep cliffs, named Becher islets. North 1^ miles from the
latter islets are two low rocks.
ANCHORAGE Vessels passing between the Show islands and the East
Volcano should be careful not to stand too close to the latter, as the water
shoals to 2 fathoms at 1^ miles >rom the shore. East 3 cables from its
north point is a half-tide rock.
There are many sunken rocks among the islets off the west face of this
group, among which vessels ought not to go, but they will find shelter
from northerly winds on the south side of the group, to the northward of
a flat rock, lying westward of the south point of East Volcano. The
northernmost islet of the group has a reef lying 1^ cables' lengths to
the northward of it.
TIDES. The tides in the vicinity of the Volcano islands will be found
to have increased their velocity, the flood setting W.N.W. and the ebb
E.S.E. It is high water, full and change, at llh. 30m. and the rise at
springs is 15 feet. In light winds a wide berth should be given to all
the islets hereabouts.
sits AD ISLET lies 4^ miles to the northward of the Show islands ;
on its north-west and south-east sides are smaller islets. The depth of
water between it and the Rugged islands to the northward varies from
5 to 7 fathoms.
REEF. A notice was published in the "North China
Herald," in February 1857, of a rock or reef lying directly in the route
CHAP. vi.] CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO; SADDLE ISLANDS. 181
of vessels running between Tae-shan and Chin-san islands towards
Ning-po, and on which the merchant brig Mariners Hope struck. The
vessel was 12 hours on the reef, which was stated to be about a third of
a mile long in an east and west direction and 2 cables broad, and had
7 fathoms at her bows, with only 5 feet under her stern at low., watery
Skead islet bore S. f E., distant 3 miles ; south extreme of Chin-san
E. | S. ; large Volcano S. W. westerly ; and extremes of Rugged islands
from N.N.W. W. to N.N.E. E.
CHIN-SAN ISLAND, 8 miles long in an east and west direction,
lies W. by N. 13 miles from the Beehive rock (page 178), and 5^ miles
to the north-east of Tae-shan. The channel between the chain of
islands extending W.N.W. from the Fishermans group and this island is
sometimes taken during the northerly monsoon by vessels bound to Ning-po
or Chusan, and it appears preferable to that through Lan-sew bay, and clear
of danger, with the exception of the Mariner reef just described. There
are several small islets lying off the eastern and northern face of Chin-
san ; the best anchorage in the northerly monsoon is to the westward of
the south-eastern islet, between it and Chin-san ; and there is also tolerable
shelter on the western side of Chin-san off Pennell point.
SAI>D:LX: CROUP. The southern islands of this group, South Saddle
and East Saddle, bear W. ^ S. 16 miles from the Barren isles, and
N.N.W. 17 miles from Leuconna island (page 178). South Saddle
island is rugged, the highest part, at the north-east end, rising 680
feet above the sea. A rock, which shows at low water, lies in the bay
on the east side of the island, with the highest part of the rocky islet
close to the eastern point of the bay in line with a conical hill over the
west point of East Saddle island.*
Eight miles to the north-west of South and East Saddle islands is
North Saddle island 780 feet high. Between these is False Saddle
island ; and S.W. of North Saddle are the Side Saddles, two narrow
islets which will afford shelter, but not as good as that under South and
East Saddle islands. North Saddle forms the north end of the Chusan
archipelago, and from it the Amherst rocks at the mouth of the Yang-tse
kiang bear N.W. f N. 26 miles, the soundings gradually shoaling from
12 to 6 fathoms. The tides are regnlar ; the flood setting to the N.W.
and the ebb to the S.E., it being high water an hour before noon on full
and change days, and the rise 14 feet.
Water can be obta-n-'d at the east end of East Saddle island.
: __ The most convenient anchorage in the northern mon-
* See Plan of South and East Islands of Saddle Group, No. 1,418 ; scale, m = 2 2 inches.
182 NIMROD SOUND TO THE YANG-TSE KIANG. [CHAP. vi.
soon amongst the Saddle group is under the East Saddle, and in the
event of being caught in a southerly wind vessels might run through
between them, taking care to keep South Saddle close aboard, as there is
a patch of 3 fathoms lying in the centre of the channel, and three rocks
h north of it.
uor,
CHILDERS ROCK, which uncovers at low tides, lies 4f miles to the
southward of East Saddle island, with the Barren islands bearing E.N.E.,
Leuconna island S.S.E. ^ E., and the summit of Senhouse island W. b. N.
The lead will give no warning of approach to this danger, the depth being
24 fathoms close to.
ISLANDS. West 1 1 miles from South Saddle island are
the Parker islands, of which Raffles is the largest. About 4 miles west-
ward of South Saddle is the Bit rock, not much elevated above high
water. At half a mile from the north-east point of Raffles island is a sunken
rock. An island with steep cliffs, named Senhouse, lies If miles to the south-
east of Raffles ; there is a good channel between them, and anchorage
will be found on the south side of Raffles in the northerly monsoon.
Brooke island lies a mile to the south-west of Senhouse island ; the
channel between them should not be used, as the wind is liable to fail
under the latter ; there is, however, a good passage 2 miles wide west
of Brooke, between it and the Bonham isles. Off the north-west end of
Raffles island, and distant from it If miles, are the Elliot islets, on the
south-west side of which H.M.S. Plover anchored, and found fair shelter,
with the wind blowing hard from the northward. From these islets
Gutzlaff island bears W. by N. N., IQl miles.
CAIRXTSMORI: ROCK. This dangerous pinnacle rock, not more than
thirty or forty feet in diameter, and on which the ship Cairnsmore
was wrecked in 1858, rises almost perpendicularly from soundings of 12
fathoms at about 2^ miles eastward of the east end of Raffles island. When
examined * the precise depth on the pinnacle could not be ascertained,
as the wreck, with her foremast standing, quite covered it, but there
cannot be more than 1 1 feet over it at low water springs.
The position of the rock is lat. 30 42' 10" N., long. 122 34' 40" E.,
and from it the south-east point of Senhouse island bears South ; a
small rugged rock lying close to the south-east point of Raffles island, and
in line with the point, bears S.W. by W. W. ; and the northern rock of
the group lying off the north part of Chesney island, N. W. by W. W.
CAUTION. Vessels navigating the channel between the Saddle group
and Raffles island are cautioned for the future to keep well over towards
*By Lieutenant J. Ward, K.N., II.M. Yacht Emperor, 1858.
CHAP. vi. j CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO; RUGGED ISLANDS. 183
the Saddle islands to avoid the above danger, as the lead will give no
warning when approaching it. In sailing north, when the Bit rock opens
south of the South Saddle they will be to the northward of the Cairnsmore ;
and in sailing south, when the same rock opens north of the South Saddle
they will be to the southward.
RUGGED ISLANDS lie W.S.W. 15 miles from Raffles, and between
them are the Morrison islands, the largest of which is very precipitous.
The Rugged group affords shelter in both monsoons, but the tides set
through them with considerable velocity. Tayung, the largest and
highest of the group, is 660 feet above the sea, and differs from the rest
by being round topped, whereas the others are, as their name denotes,
rugged Under the south side of an islet west of Tayung is Pirate bay,
which will afford snug anchorage during the northerly monsoon, and a
better shelter than that within the S.W. and N.W. Horns of the group.
A reef, which generally breaks, lies off the east side of Pirate bay.
The largest island on the north side of this group is Tripoint, remark-
able for its triple peak ; and east of it is Spire islet, on which is a curious
pinnacle.
HEU and CHICKS. N.E. by N. 3| miles from the N.W. Horn of the
Rugged islands is an islet with several rocks north-west of it, called the
Hen and Chicks.
A shoal with only 10 feet water over it has been reported to lie S.W.
7 miles from Gutzlaff island, which would place it E. by N. ^ N. not quite
2 miles from the Hen and Chicks.
GUTZLAFF ISLAND, 210 feet above the sea, bears N.E. 12 miles from
the N.W. Horn of the Rugged islands ; a small rock lies off its north
side. * " It has been reported from many sources, that a bank with only
1\ fathoms on it, extends a mile from the western side of Gutzlaff."
TIDES. In the South-east or Vernon channel, at the south end of the
Chusan archipelago, it is high water, full and change, at 9h. 40m., and
springs rise 14 feet ; in Ting-hai harbour at llh. Om., springs rise 12
feet, neaps 9 feet ; at Putu island at 8h. 15m., springs rise 12 feet ; in
Lan-sew bay at lOh. Om., springs rise 13 feet ; at the Volcano islands at
llh. 30m., springs rise 15 feet; and at East Saddle island at llh. Om.,
and springs rise 14 feet.
Under Luhwang island the flood sets to the N.W. at the rate of 2 knots
per hour, and the ebb to the S.E. at \\ knots. In Duffield, Gough, and
Roberts passes, the first of the flood, at full and change, often comes from
* Commander C. M. Mathison, H.M.S. Mariner, 1850.
184 NIMROD SOUND TO THE YANG-TSE KlANG. [CHAP. TI.
the northward, and sometimes runs in that direction 3 hours before the
tide through the Buffaloes Nose channel overcomes that through the
south-east channels. In. Duffield pass the tide sometimes runs 5 knots
per hour ; in Gough and Roberts passes it is not so strong ; in Beak
. Head channel 4 knots is about the maximum ; and in Vernon channel
it has been known to run 6 knots. Off Roundabout island the tidal
streams are not so violent, but the eddies take command of a sailing ship
at springs.
In the southern entrance to Sarah Galley channel, between Laoush and
Ousha islands, the flood ran W. b. S. 2 knots per hour, the ebb E.S.E.,
1^ knots ; the moon was then 18 days old. In the Cambrian pass between
Ousha and Chukea islands, H.M. steamer Vixen, with the Cambrian in
tow, could not stem the ebb.
In the Tower Hill channel, as before stated (page 169), with a strong
flood, vessels have been swept away to the westward, and carried by the
tide beyond Just-in-the-Way, and even through the Blackwall channel ;
and after rounding Tower Hill and entering the Bell channel, many
have been borne by the ebb, between Tower Hill and Tea islands.
Having rounded the north end of Tea island with a strong ebb, it is
necessary to guard against its taking the vessel through the Melville
channel, and if not able to pass northward of Macclesfield island, send
the boats a-head and endeavour to keep the vessel to the northward of
Sarah island, where there is shoal water to anchor. In the channel
between Bell island and Chusan, the tide at times runs with great
strength, so much so that on one occasion the Madagascar steamer had
great difficulty in stemming it.
In the Blackwall channel, the eddies are as strong as they are off
Roundabout island, taking a sailing ship round against both helm and
Bails. In the Kintang channel, between Kintang island and Deadman
island, the rate of the tides is sometimes 4 knots.
In the northern part of the Chusan archipelago in Lansew bay, with
Lausew island bearing West 5 miles, the flood ran to the "W.N.W. the
first hour, then N.W. ; total amount of tide 11 knots. The ebb, S.E. b. S.
the whole tide ; total amount 5| knots.
CHAUNEI., between the south point of Kintang or
Silver island and the main land, is about 2^ miles wide, but it is nar-
Towed to 1^ miles by an extensive mud bank wliich borders its southern
shore, and by the reef which extends 2 cables from Alligator point
(page 172), and covers at half tide. This mud bank dries upwards of
three-quarters of a mile from the shore, is steep-to, and the lead gives
CHAP, vi.] KINTANG CHANNEL. - JUST-IN-THE-WAY ROCK. 185
no warning ; there are some small islets lying on its outer ede near
the easternmost of which is a boat creek, from whence there is a paved
footpath leading to Tein-tung and so on to Ning-po ; the whole distance
being about 18 miles ; the last 6 miles may be performed by canal.*
JtTST-iio'-THE-w.a-jr. This small rock, 20 feet high, with rocks
extending 11 cables from its S.S.E. side, lies in the eastern entrance of
the Kintang channel, and to the south-east, between it and Tygosan
island, there is fair anchorage in 12 to 16 fathoms, which will be found a
convenient stopping place should there not be sufficient tide to take a
vessel to Chin-hai, the anchorage outside of which is much exposed.
The DEADXKAxr is a square island lying W. ^ X. 2^ miles from the
south extreme of Kintang and 4^ miles westward of Just-in-the-Way-
The channel between it and Kintang is rather less than 2 miles wide,
with deep water and rapid tides. The Ko channel, between the Deadman
and the main, is half a mile wide, but it is not recommended, as the tides
are violent, and the limit of shoal water on the south side is not well
marked.
ROCK, lies a short half mile to the northward of the Deadman,
at the western entrance to the Kintang channel, and shows at low water
springs. The marks for it are, the easternmost islet off the north-east
point of the Deadman in one with San-shan islet S.E. S. ; Taping
point, the north-west point of Taping island, N. ^ E. ; and the west ex-
treme of Dumb islet S.W. W. Beacon hill at the east side of the
entrance to the river Yung, in line with the citadel bearing W.S.W., will
lead to the northward.
TSE-IE or SQUARE xsZiAUD bears N.W. b. W. 2| miles from the
Deadman ; there is a patch with 2f fathoms water on it lying S.E. by S.
6 cables from its north end. H.M.S. Comvay anchored to the west-
ward of this island with it bearing E.N.E., and Pas-yew, the western of
the Yew islands, South. This anchorage in the summer season is safe,
but during the autumn and winter violent gales with thick weather rise
rapidly, causing an uneasy sea, in which a vessel will have difficulty in
weighing her anchor ; consequently, the anchorage at Just-in-the Way or
that in Ta-outse harbour, at the north-west end of Kintang, should be
resorted to at this season.
TUNG HIVER. The entrance to this river is lo miles to the west-
ward of the Bell channel leading to Ting-hai harbour, and is fronted by
three islets, called the Yew islands or Triangles, which form three en-
* See Chart of Kintang Channel, No. 1,770 ; scale, m = l'2 inches.
186 MM HOD SOUND TO THE YANG-TSE KIANG. [CHAP. vi.
trances into the river. The town of Chin-hai is built immediately to the
south-westward of the Citadel hill, on the western side of the entrance
to the river, of which it is the maritime town. From Chin-hai the river
trends in a S.W. and West direction for 11 miles to Ning-po fu, and is
about 2 cables wide, with depths varying in mid-channel from 5 to 2
fathom's. Vessels of 17 feet draught can proceed up to the city from
Chin-hai at half tide.
The Yung separates into two branches at Ning-po fu ; one, the Yuao
and Tsie-kie branch, taking a north-west, the other, the Funghwa branch,
a S. by W. direction ; the latter is barely a cable wide, and is crossed by
a bridge of boats at a quarter of a mile beyond the junction. As the
turning at this junction, from the river Yung to the Tsie-kie branch, is
very sharp and difficult to take, owing to the crowded state of the river
and the flood tide setting towards the Funghwa branch, large vessels
should anchor below it and wait until it is cleared. The British Consulate
is on the left bank of the Tsi-kie branch opposite the city.*
{ " Ning-po fu was occupied by a detachment of marines and British
troops during the winter of 1841, and the vessels of the squadron anchored
off the north-east and eastern parts of the city. To prevent an attack
from fire junks an expedition of troops and bluejackets, under the com-
mand of Vice- Admiral Sir W. Parker and General Lord Gough, embarked
in December 1841, in H.E.I.C. steamers, Sesostris, Phlegethon, and
Nemesis, and proceeded with the boats of the squadron up the Yuyao
branch, clearing the river of suspicious junks, and making the Chinese
troops evacuate the city of Yuyao. The Sesostris anchored about
3^ miles below the city,4ier draught being 17 feet."
TIDES. At Chin-hai it is high water, full and change, at llh. 20m.,
and springs rise 12^ feet. At Ning-po fu it is high water at Ih. Om., and
springs rise 9 feet.
DIRECTIONS. A ^vessel bound from Ting-hai harbour, Chusan island,
to the river Yung, should, after clearing the Bell channel, steer W. b. S. for
Just-in-the-Way, bearing in mind that the south-east face of that islet is
foul, and that a reef extends a cable's length from Insular point, the north
extreme of Tygosan island. As before stated (page 185), if the tide should
fail, there is fair anchorage to the south-east of Just-in-the-Way. From
hence the peak of Tower-hill island in line with Insular point will lead
southward of the rocks off Alligator point, after which keep over towards
the Kintang shore, until well past the Deadman, or until Beacon hill
at the east side of the entrance to the river Yung is in line with the
* See Chart of Yung Eiver, Xo. 1,59'2 ; scale, m = 3 inches.
f John W. King, Master of H.M.S. Modeste, 1841.
CHAP. vi.] YUNG RIVER; NING-PO FU. 187
citadel W.S.W., which will lead northward of the Blonde rock, and to the
southward of the 2 fathoms patch lying S.E. b. S. 6 cables from the
north end of Tse-le island.
It will be prudent for a stranger, before entering the river Yung, if
unable to obtain a pilot, to examine the entrance in his boat, for since the
survey of this river the stakes and sunken junks which blocked the
channel between the citadel and Peak islet have been removed, and
this may have caused some change in the mud banks and soundings
outside.
The Yew islands, as before stated, form three entrances into the Yung
river, the easternmost of which is between the islands and Look-out hill
on the eastern side of the entrance to the river. The first danger in
O
this channel is the Nemesis rock, which is covered at half flood and lies
E. by N. I N. a quarter of a mile from the summit of Ta-yew, the eastern
Yew. By keeping Pas-yew, the western Yew, open of the south point of
Ta-yew, this danger will be avoided.
Having passed the east point of Ta-yew, keep it and Seaou-yew, the
middle Yew, aboard, to avoid the Sesostris rock, with only 8 feet on it,
which lies in mid-channel with Friendly islands (lying 7 miles north-
west of Chin-hai) in one with Talung island (a high bluff island beyond
it) bearing N.W. ^ W. ; Peak islet (a remarkable rock on the east side of
the river abreast the citadel) in line with Cone Hill bearing S.W. ^ S.,
will lead westward of it.*
Having cleared the Sesostris, steer so as to pass between half and
1^ cables to the southward of Pas-yew, and then for the point under
the citadel, taking care that the tide does not set the vessel over to the
eastern bank of the river, where the water shoals to 2 fathoms at half a
mile from the shore.
The middle entrance, or that between Seaou-yew and Pas-yew, is pro-
bably the best of the three. A mud spit extends north-westerly 1^ cables
from the west end of Seaou-yew, but it will be avoided by keeping the
citadel open westward of the west end of Pas-yew ; then steer as before
so as to pass to the southward of Pas-yew.
The channel between Pas-yew and Chung or citadel point carries a
depth of 2 fathoms at low water, and is the broadest and best for small
vessels when the tide has risen sufficiently high for them to enter it ; the
only danger being the Tigers Tail rock which covers at high water, and
lies rather more than a cable's length N.W. ^ N. from the summit of
* The merchant barque Moltan is said to have struck on a rock having 9 feet on it and
18 feet close to ; when on it Friendly island was just showing northward of Pas-yew, and
the northern extreme of Look-out hill bore East. Nautical Magazine, 1852, page 395.
188 NIMROD SOUND TO THE YANG-TSE KIANG. [CHAP. n.
Pas-yew, with the south-east foot of the citadel hill in line with Cone peak
bearing S.S.W. % W. Chung point is steep-to on its east side, and vessels
will find good shelter under the fort.
Tfce COAST from Chin-hai trends in a north-west direction, and is
fronted by a mud bank which dries at low water for nearly three-
quarters of a mile from the embankment, and is steep-to. At the distance
of 7 miles from Chin-hai, and three-quarters of a mile from the shore,
are a group of five islets, named the Friendly islands, inside of which
there was shelter in a depth of 3 fathoms at the time of this survey, but
the water is said* to be shoaling fast. Care must be taken in rounding
the west end of the largest islet to avoid a spit which extends 3 cables
to the S.E. from it.
At 4 miles farther to the N.W. is a high bluff, named Talung island,
rising to the height of 920 feet, and forming the southern horn of the
Tsien-tang estuary, or Hang-chu bay.
CAUTION. From Talung the coast trends to the westward, and for
upwards of 30 miles is fronted by a dangerous mud bank which, at the
distance of 8 miles from Talung, dries 7 miles from the shore, and on its
edge are some small hillocks. The Kite transport was lost upon this bank
in 1840, the tide, which here begins to increase its velocity to 6 knots at
the springs, turning her over the moment she tailed on it.
MIDDLE GROUND. N. b. W. 3^ miles from Tse-le island is a Middle
ground with less than 2 fathoms on it, to avoid which vessels in proceed-
ing to the northward from the river Yung, must keep over towards the
Kintang shore, and if drawing 18 feet water, should not bring Tse-le
island to the eastward of South. There is a passage to the southward
of this Middle ground for vessels of 15 feet draught, but there are two
patches, on which H.M.S. Contest grounded, lying in a N.W. direction
from Tse-le island, one with 12 feet on it at 9 cables, and the other with
only 5 feet at 2 miles from the island.
or North island, bearing N. f W. 14 miles from Tse-le island,
is the largest and easternmost of the first group of islands met with
when steering to the northward from Chin-hai ; it is flat-topped, 216 feet
above the sea, three-quarters of a mile in extent east and west, and
cultivated. As the water deepens close around this island to 26 and 32
fathoms, vessels cannot anchor near enough to get shelter, but the holding
ground is good. North about half a mile from it is a small rock which
always shows.
* Commander T. H. Mason, K.N., H.M.S. Medea, 1849.
CHAP, vi.] HANG-CHU BAY; SESHAN ISLANDS. CHAPU BAY. 189
WEST STORK is a small islet lying W. N. 3| miles from Nanho
island, and there are 8 and 9 fathoms water between them.
SISTERS lie North 9 miles from Talung island, and although
small, will afford shelter from northerly winds. The channel between
this group and the dangerous mud bank just described, is 4 miles wide,
and the depth in it varies from 6 to 2 fathoms, shoaling towards the bank.
A reef, which shows at low water, lies N.N.W. half a mile from the
western islet of the group.
SESHAN ISLANDS form three distinct groups. East Seshan, the
easternmost group, lies North 18 miles from Nanho island ; the largest islet
is about 400 feet high, and has six small islets around it. The Middle
Seshan group lies 6 miles to the W.N.W. of East Seshan, and consists
of one large and eight smaller islets, the southernmost of which is a small
rock nearly level with the water's edge, lying nearly 4 miles to the south-
ward of the highest ; the western islet, House islet, is an abrupt cliff with
a house on its summit. Neither of these two groups are sufficiently lar"-e
to afford shelter ; but fair anchorage will be found in the neighbourhood
of the western group, named West Seshan, which consists of three islets,
and lies W.N.W. 10 miles from the Middle Seshan.
CHAPU BAT, formed on the northern shore of Hang-chu bay, is 9 miles
wide, in a N.E. by E. and S.W. by W. direction, and 3 miles deep. The
position of the roadstead off the city of Chapu will be readily known by the
hills in its vicinity, as well as by the islets which protect the road from
the eastward ; on the eastern of these islets is a remarkable white house.
Vessels steering for this anchorage should round the southern islet at
about a quarter of a mile and haul up for the houses which will be seen to
the westward of the hills. The anchorage is sheltered from E.N.E. to
S.S.W. ; but the velocity of the tide at springs is 5 knots, and the rise
and fall 25 feet. The mud dries half a mile from high-water mark, is
steep-to, and the lead gives no warning. At 4 miles to the southward of
the southern islet is a shoal on which the ship Bentinck tacked in 3 fathoms,
and where there is probably less water ; should the tide therefore set
vessels in this vicinity, it will be prudent to anchor.*
Off the southern horn of Chapu bay the tide runs 7- knots, and the
rise and fall is 30 feet. In this bight of the bay are some islets and a
pagoda; the latter most likely is in the neighbourhood of Hai-ning. At
13 miles from Chapu there is a bay, protected in some measure by a
small islet, in which several boats were lying aground. On the hill over
* See Plan of Chapu Road, No. 1,453 ; scale, m = 2 inches,
190 NIMROD SOUND TO THE YANG-TSE KIANG. [CHAP. vi.
it was a four-gun battery and a numerous garrison ; this place, answering
to the name, is supposed to be the Canpu of Marco Polo. Tseenshan,
which is 24 miles westward of Chapu, appeared to be an islet connected
with the main by a causeway under which boats were lying ; on it
was a four-gun battery and a small pagoda, and, assuming the geogra-
phical position which the Jesuits assign to Hang-chu fu to be correct,
this place is 60 miles from the city. It was in this neighbourhood that the
H.E.I.C. Steamer Phlegethon experienced a tide of 1 1^ knots at springs
and 8 at neaps ; the depth of water across the estuary at low tide was
found to be less than 1^ fathoms.
DIRECTIONS Vessels bound to the northward from the river Yung
should endeavour to leave with the first of the flood, and when north-
ward of Tse-le island, if drawing more than 18 feet, they should not
bring that island to the eastward of South to avoid the Middle ground.
In working up for the East Seshan group some casts of 3^ and 4 fathoms
were obtained with the eastern islet bearing N. by E. ; it will, therefore,
be advisable that a vessel of large draught should not stand into Hang-chu
bay unless bound for Chapu road, in which case pass about three miles to the
southward of East Seshan, and steer for the southernmost islet of the
Middle Seshan group. After passing the West Seshan the low land on
the north side of Hang-chu bay will be seen, and to the southward the
Fog islets, a group of five low rocky islets bearing W. by S. ^ S. 14 miles
from the Middle Seshan, the depth of water about them being 5 and 6
fathoms. The position of Chapu road, as stated above, will be readily
known by the hills in its vicinity.
If bound for the Yang-tse kiang keep to the eastward of the Seshan
islands, steering between the East Seshan and Rugged islands. The tides
in the vicinity of the Volcano island will be found to have increased
their velocity, the flood setting W.N.W. and the ebb E.S.E. The Rugged
islands affords shelter in both monsoons, but the tides set through them
with considerable strength. From the Rugged islands, steer to pass on
either side of the Hen and Chicks in 6 and 7 fathoms water, recollecting
the 10 feet shoal (page 183), and also on either side of Gutzlaff island ;
it will be as well, however, if the vessel is of large draught, to pass east-
ward of the latter island, as a bank with only 2^ fathoms on it is said to
extend a mile from its western side.
TIDES It is high water, full and change, at the Seshan islands at
llh, 45m., and springs rise 14 feet ; at the Fog islands in Hang-chu bay
nt the same time, and springs rise 17 feet ; and in Chapu road at noon,
and springs rise 25 feet.
The velocity of the tidal streams increases as Hang-chu bay is
approached ; in the neighbourhood of Nanho island and the Volcano
CHAP, vi.] YANG-TSE KIANG.
group, the flood runs W. b. N., and the ebb E. b. S. sometimes at the
rate of 3 knots, and in light winds, unless great care is taken, vessels are
liable to get entangled among the Dunsterville or Volcano groups. At
the Fog islands in Hang-chu bay, the velocity increases to 4 knots per
hour ; at Chapu to 5 knots ; and in the south-west part of Chapu bay
to 7 knots, with a rise and fall of 35 feet. Twenty-five miles above
Chapu, the tide at springs was found to run 11 knots per hour, and at
neaps 8 knots, with a rise and fall of 40 feet. In the vicinity of the outer
Seshan islands, and the Rugged group, the flood runs 21 and 3 knots ;
to the southward of Gutzlaff island the first of the flood makes to the
southward of West.
YANG-TSE KIANG.
The Yang-tse kiang, the largest of the Chinese rivers, leads to
Nanking, which is about 220 miles from its entrance, and then on
to Hankau, which is 384 miles above Nanking. The entrance is wide,
and divided into two channels by Tsung-ming island, which is 32 miles
long in a W.N.W. and E.S.E. direction, and 5 to 10 miles broad, and
is said to be the largest alluvial island in the world, containing a
population of about half a million, although in the fourteenth century it
did not exist above water.*
On the southern shore of the Yang-tse, nearly abreast of Bush island,
and about 40 miles within the entrance, is the mouth of the Wusung
river, with the village of Wusung on its left bank. The great commercial
city of Shanghai is 12 miles higher up on the same bank of the river, and
is one of the most active trading cities in the empire. On each side of
the mouth of the Wusung there is a fort about ! miles below the village.
YAICG-TSE CAPE, forming the south point of entrance to the Yang-
tse kiang, is 17 miles W. by N. from Gutzlaff island, and on it is a
beacon 25 feet high and 35 feet above the sea. The land hereabouts is
very low and quite level, having been entirely gained from the sea, and
the mud dries out half a mile at low water from the embankment. There
is anchorage in 4^ fathoms under the beacon, and fair shelter from
northerly winds, unless the wind draws to the eastward. The coast for
20 miles to the northward of the cape is fronted by a mud bank, which
commences at the cape, and its eastern edge, in 1\ fathoms, is 14 miles
from the shore, and 12 miles N. \ W. from Gutzlaff.
* See Chart of the Yang-tse kiang, No. 1,480 ; scale, m = 0-2 of an inch, corrected
to 1859.
192 NIMROD SOUND TO THE YANG-TSE KIANG. [CHAP. vi.
SHAWEISHAN ISLAND, bearing N. 1 E. 37^ miles from Gutzlaff, is a
small peaked islet 196 feet high, fronting the entrance to the Yang-tse
kiang.*
AIVIHERST and ARIADNE ROCKS The Amherst rocks, 10 feet
above high water, lie N.N.E. 25 miles from Gutzlaff island, and
S.S.E. ^ E. 16 miles from Shaweishan. The Ariadne rock has only
5 feet on it at low water, and from it the Amherst bear E. by N. 7 3-
miles ; Shaweishan, North a little easterly 15^ miles ; and Gutzlaff
S. | W. 21| miles.
The SOUTH EN-TRANCE to the YANG-TSE KIANG IS bounded to
the northward by the rocks just described and the southern edge of the
Tungsha banks, and to the southward by the extensive mud bank which
fronts the shore to the northward of Cape Yang-tse. The following are
the positions of the light-vessel, buoys, and beacons, placed in the river
by the Chinese authorities at Shanghai, and by George L. Carr, Master
of HM.Sr Pique, March 1857 :
The LiGHT-VESSEii, painted red with two masts, each surmounted
with a ball, at the entrance of the Yang-tse, is moored in 4^ fathoms at
low water, one mile from the southern edge of the Tungsha banks, and
N. by W. | W. 23 miles from Gutzlaff island. A gun is fired from her to
attract attention, when a ship is observed running into danger, and the
signal, by Marryat's code, of the course that should be steered, is then
exhibited. A light from a common lantern is shown on board from
sunset to sunrise.f
PILOTS. Competent pilots, English and American, will be found
cruising in the neighbourhood of the Saddle islands during the summer
months, and just outside Gutzlaff island in the winter. No sailing
directions can do away with their usefulness to the stranger, where the
safety of the vessel depends so much upon a correct knowledge of the
tides. The signal of the authorized pilots is a flag, half red and half
white horizontal, with the number of the boat in black.
K.ITT T'o AN BEACON TOWER (a plain structure of brick, painted red
and white and 70 feet high) is erected on the southern shore of the,
* Where the Admiralty chart gives a depth of 3^, 3, and 7 fathoms on each side of
Shaweishan island, there is now only 2^ fathoms. John Thomas, Master of H.M.S.
Contest, 1852.
f This light is so faint, that it cannot be seen at a greater distance than 3 miles, and
may be easily mistaken for a light on board a fishing boat or junk. The light-vessel and
the Kiu T'oan beacon tower are exceedingly useful, and so are the buoys, but un-
fortunately the latter are not large enough for the distances they are required to be
seen. Captain Sir F. Nicolson, H.M.S. Pique, April 1858.
CHAP, vi.] YANG-TSE KIANG. 103
Yang-tse kiang, at Kiu T'oan, near a spot known as the Three trees-
It bears from the light-vessel N.W. by W. f W., distant about 16 miles
and from the trees upon Blockhouse island S. by E. ^ E. 8 miles.
BUOYS. The following eight iron Nun buoys are moored between
Gutzlaff island and Wusung, upon the most projecting points of the
southern edge of the Tungsha banks, and upon the northern projecting
points of the south shore bank :
Fairway Euoy (black and white horizontal stripes and surmounted
with staff and vane} lies in 4| fathoms at the entrance of the river, with
Gutzlaff island bearing S. by E. 18 miles, and the light-vessel N. W. ^ W.
7-^ miles.*
Buoys on South Shore Bank. The edge of this sand is marked
by three buoys coloured black, each surmounted with staff and vane,
and numbered respectively 1, 3, and 5.
No. 1 is in 18 feet at low-water springs, with Kiu T'oan beacon tower
bearing N. W. by W. ; light-vessel East 3^ miles ; buoy No. 3 N.W. ^W.
8-J- miles ; and red buoy No. 2 on southern edge of the Tungsha banks,
N. by W. 3f miles.
No. 3 is in 18 feet on the edge of the bank extending south-east
of the beacon tower, with the tower bearing W. by N. f N. westerly ;
light-vessel S.E. by E. ^ E. ; and red buoy No. 4 on southern edge of
Tungsha banks N. by W. ^ W. 2 miles.
No. 5 is in 20 feet, with Blockhouse island bearing N. by E. E. ;
the beacon tower S.E. ^ S. ; and red buoy No. 6 on southern edge of
the Tungsha banks N.E. If miles. At about a ship's length to the S.S.W.
of this buoy, the depth is only 2 fathoms.
Buoys on Tungsha Banks The edge of this sand is marked by three
buoys coloured red, each surmounted with staff sind. vane, and numbered
respectively 2. 4, and 6.
No. 2 is in 19 feet at low- water springs, with the light- vessel bearing
S.E. \- E. 5^ miles ; Kiu T'oan beacon tower W. by N. ^ N. ; and black
buoy No. 1 S. by E. 3| miles. It shoals suddenly inside the buoy, and
the nearest point of the sand, which is dry at low water, bears N. ^ W.,
distant about one cable's length.
No. 4 is in 20 feet, with the beacon tower bearing S.W. by W. f W.
31 miles ; Blockhouse island N.W.^ N. ; and black buoy No. 3 S. by E. E.
2f miles.
No. 6 is in 19 feet, with Blockhouse bearing North 2 miles ; the
beacon tower S. by E. 1 E. ; and black buoy No. 5 S.W. If miles.
* The Fairway buoy disappeared in the gale of September 1857.- -Captain Sir F.
Nicholson, H.M.S. Pique, April 1858.
Co.]
194 NIMROD SOUND TO THE YANG-TSE KIANG. [CHAP. vi.
The numbers of the buoys begin from seaward, and in entering the
river, when within the Fairway buoy, leave the red buoys on the starboard
hand, and the black buoys on the port hand. When standing towards
black buoy No. 5, tack the first shoal cast, for the bank is steep-to : close
outside the buoy the depth is 5 fathoms.
ANCHORAGE It will be generally safe to anchor in 4 to 6 fathoms
water off the entrance of the Yang-tse kiang, outside Gutzlaff island.
It is recommended that a vessel should not anchor at night under the
Saddle islands, during the North-east monsoon, unless there are appearances
of bad weather, as it will frequently take all the daylight of the next day
to work up to the entrance. In the summer season, if bad weather is
approaching, which the barometer usually foretells, a stranger should not
attempt to run in unless certain of getting within the bar ; but an anchorage
should be sought either under these islands, or the vessel kept at sea,
as it is dangerous to enter the river when a gale is coming on. It will
be preferable to anchor than to stand out to sea, as the weather is
sometimes thick and foggy, the tides strong'and uncertain, and the vessel's
position may not be quickly ascertained.
TIDES It is high water, full and change, in the vicinity, and east-
ward of Gutzlaff island, between 11 and 12 o'clock; and the rise at
springs is about 15 feet.
At the entrance of the Yang-tse kiang, it is high water at about noon ;
springs rise 15 feet, neaps 10 feet, and neaps range 5 feet ; its rate, which
is from l to 4^ knots, and its direction, is affected by the prevailing
wind. At the entrance of Wusung river, it is high water at Ih. 30m.,
and the rise is about the same. The depth on the outer bar of Wusung
at the lowest springs is 16 feet, and on the bar above Wusung about
12 feet. At Shanghai it is high water at Ih. 40m. ; springs rise 10 feet,
neaps 7 feet, and neaps range 4 feet. Vessels drawing 16 and 17 and
even 18 feet can cross the Inner bar at any high water ; if of larger
draught they must wait for spring tides. The greatest draught ever
brought up to Shanghai was between 21 and 22 feet, but a vessel of that
draught will have to wait for the springs to pass either up or down the
river.
From the Saddle islands to Wusung the streams generally set
N.W. by W. and S.E. by E. when fully made, if north-east gales or heavy
rains do not interfere. The flood makes first to the southward, then
S.W., and gradually round to N.W. at half-flood, which is its direction
at the strength of the tide.
The first of the ebb sets to the northward, over the Tungsha banke^
and in like manner, changes round to the eastward, gradually running
the strongest when S.E.
CHAP, vi.] YANG-TSE KIANCJ.
During the survey of the Yaug-tse in October 1842, off the mouth
of the river with Shaweishan island bearing N.E. by E., on the first
day of th'e moon the ebb ran to the S.E. 20 miles on the whole tide ;
the flood, commencing at N.N.W., then W.N.W., afterwards N.W., ran
only 10 miles. On the following tide the amount of ebb amounted to 21
miles, and the flood to 16 miles.
It is at the turn of both streams that most caution is necessary to
avoid being set out of the channel. . Round the south-east edges of the
south bank the flood sets W.S.W., and the ebb the contrary way. Leaving
the position off Gutzlaff, at a quarter ebb, a sailing vessel will carry the
flood to Wusung, if there is any wind.
DIRECTIONS. Vessels bound to the Yang-tse kiang from the south-
ward, and not intending to call at Chusan or the river Yung, should pass
eastward of Chusan, and enter the archipelago to the northward of
that island. In the northerly monsoon they should endeavour to make the
Saddle islands, as being the most weatherly land-fall, but if they cannot
fetch so far to the northward, and they have reached the parallel of
30 N., the high-domed shaped island of Video, 500 feet high, will then
be a conspicuous object, for it may be seen in clear weather 50 or 60 miles;
it has a remarkable white cliff, which shows when the island bears
N.W. by N., and in thick weather any cast below 30 fathoms will point
out that the vessel is in its vicinity. The most remarkable land to the
southward of Video is the island of Chukea, on which there is a round-
topped peak 1,164 feet high. There are several islets (page 164) to the
eastward of Chukea ; Tongting, the outer one, is about 40 feet high, with
detached reefs to the south-west of it.
If unable to turn to windward, anchorage will be found on the southern
side of Ousha island, in the entrance to the Sarah Galley channel. If
able to weather the north end of Chukea, the south side of Putu island
will be found the best stopping place ; the anchorage in 12 fathoms is
under the hill, with three chimneys on it ; the mud bank from the shore is
very steep, shoaling quickly from 12 to 2 fathoms. From this position, in
a handy vessel the best route will be through Lansew bay, and through the
channel between Lansew and Tae-shan islands, described in page 174 ;
but large vessels had better pass eastward of Video, and enter the
archipelago farther to the northward. If unable to fetch to windward of
the Barren islands, a convenient anchorage can be found among the
Saddle group, should the tide or weather be unfavourable for entering the
river.
During the South-west monsoon, endeavour to make the island of Video,
as it is the highest islet to the southward. If late in the day an anchorage
may be sought under the Saddle islands, which afford shelter in both
N 2
196 NIMROD SOUND TO THE YANG-TSE KIANG. [CHAP. vi.
monsoons, and it may here be noticed, that as the entrance of the Yang-
tse kiang is somewhat difficult for a stranger to make in fine weather, no
vessel should attempt it in bad, without a good departure either from
GutzlafF island or the Amherst rocks, and strict attention to the course
and distance made good.
Leaving the Saddle island keep North Saddle bearing about S.E. by E.
until Gutzlaff island bears South, distant 15 to 16 miles, recollecting
that if Shaweishan island shows plainer than Gutzlaff, the vessel is
too far to the northward, and in danger of entering the false channel
to the northward of the Tungsha banks. Gutzlaff island, 210 feet high,
when first seen, will appear like a small round lump. Shaweishan
island, which is a little larger than Gutzlaff, and 196 feet high, is not often
seen when a vessel is in the right position for approaching the Tungsha
banks. Thus far the tide sets N.W. by W. and S.E. by E. from 1 to
3^ knots; but it is affected greatly, both in direction and velocity, by the
prevailing wind.
With Gutzlaff island on the above bearing and distance, if a clear day,
the light-vessel will be seen, when steer for her to cross the bar, passing
her as most convenient, taking care, however, not to bring her westward
of W.N.W.* when eastward of her, nor southward of S.E. by E. ^ E.
when westward of her, and to make due allowance for the set of the
tides over the Tungsha banks.
From the light-vessel steer about N.W. by W. ; when about dipping
her hull, the Beacon tower at Kiu T'oan will be seen, and when it bears
about W.S.W. the vessel will be in 6 fathoms at low water, with the
south shore plain in sight. Continue the above course, passing the
Beacon tower at about 2 miles, when the dry north bank will in all
probability be visible on the starboard hand, as it is only covered at the
highest springs. Blockhouse islandf will soon rise, having at first the
appearance of a cluster of fishing boats, and gradually showing itself a
low island covered with bushy trees. When the large house on this island
bears N.E. by E., the vessel will be in the narrowest part of the channel,
which here is only l miles wide.
After passing Blockhouse, the south shore should be gradually closed
to about a mile, and kept at that distance until the marks and buoy for
* Duncan J. Louttid, Master of H.M.S. Assistance, 1859.
f Blockhouse and Bush islands have much increased in size since 1842. There are
many places where the -water has shoaled since the last survey : there is a patch with
2 fathoms on it at half flood with GutzlafF bearing S. by E. 13^ miles. George B. F.
Swain, Acting Master, H.M.S. Pilot, 1850.
CHAP, vi.] YANG-TSE KIANG ; WUSUNG RIVER. 719
TTusung spit are seen. As the south shore bank is steep-to, that shore
should not be approached nearer than three-quarters of a mile. The
second clump of large bushy trees on the low point, open half a point
of the square and well-defined outer point of Paushan, will lead clear
of the Wusung spit, if the buoy should at any time be removed.
Great attention must be paid to the set of the tidal streams at the
entrance of the Yang-tse, and also to the lead. So long as the weather is
clear Gutzlaff island forms an admirable mark, and it has only to be kept
to the westward of South until it is distant 16 miles, when a vessel
may steer N.W. by W. for the Fairway buoy or the light-vessel ; but
in thick weather and a working breeze with a variable tide under her
lee, it is difficult to ascertain when 16 miles have been made, and she
will be liable to be horsed over to the Tungsha banks, where several
vessels have been wrecked. These banks should always be approached
with caution, as their southern edge gives no warning, unless it is by the
lead indicating hard bottom ; and, as the tide sets across and not into the
river, it will be as well to ascertain the vessel's true rate over the ground
by using the deep sea lead instead of the log-ship, and taking the opposite
to the bearing of the line as the course. The break on the head of the
Tungsha banks will sometimes be seen after passing the Ariadne rock,
but in thick weather the southern side of the channel is no doubt the one
to border on. Should the lead indicate hard bottom, and there be much
sand amongst the mud on the arming of the lead, the probability is that
the vessel is on the north shore.
In working up from the Saddle islands, do not bring Gutzlaff to the
eastward of South, until 15 or 16 miles to the northward of it, when
it may be brought to bear S.S.E. The vessel will then be on the edge of
the south bank. She may now stand to the westward, nearly into her
own draught, bearing in mind that the flood sets W.S.W. round the south-
east edge of it, and the ebb contrary. All vessels should keep as near as
possible to this bank, and not wait for a shoal cast to tack, when standing
to the north-eastward.
After passing the light-vessel, do not, when standing to the northward,
bring her to the southward of S.E. by E. ^ E., and tack in 3^ fathoms
when standing towards the south bank. The deepest water is near and
along the southern edge of the north bank, but in standing towards it do
not wait for the second shoal cast to go about. Generally the edge of the
north bank is lined with heavy fishing stakes, planted in 4 and 5 fathoms,
with only a few feet water a ship's length inside them. As before stated,
when standing towards black buoy No. 5, tack the first shoal cast, for the
bank is steep-to.
193 MMBOD SOUND TO TBE YANG-TSE KIANG. [CHAT. VL
The foregoing directions are for vessels of about 18 feet draught; small
craft may close with the south hank when Gutzlaff island bears South,
distant between 12 and 15 miles, and steer up with the lead for their
gride. The south shore is not to be depended upon all the way ; after
passing the Beacon tower the bank is steep-to, and should not be
approached within three-quarters of a mile.
BZ&BCTXOVS for wustrxrCr &XVEB. The north spit at entrance to
this river is marked by a red buoy, surmounted with staff and rane, and
numbered 8. It lies in 17 feet at low-water springs, with Paushan
point bearing N.W. by W. f W. ; leading marks into Wusung river
S.W. | W., and mud fort S. by W. westerly.
Three poles, each 60 feet high, stand on the inner angle of the stone
fortification (Fort A. on the chart) on the left bank of the Wusung river,
and are used as leading marks for entering. The two rear poles have
crows' nests built around them, and are painted red. The pole in front
has on its summit a bull's eye or target, and is painted white.
It would be imprudent for a stranger to enter the Wusung without a
pilot, who is always in attendance at the entrance, for the banks within are
constantly undergoing changes from the alluvial deposits. In approaching
the entrance, a peaked tower near the town of Paushan will be seen to
the westward ; and on the embankment, in front of it, a beacon, which
must be kept a little open southward of the tower until the leading
mark for entering the river is on, viz. : the white pole kept in one, or a
fitde open southward of the southernmost or inner red pole. In entering
pass dose to the eastward of the red buoy, which marks the north spit ;
the deep-water channel here is narrow, and the spit is composed of
hard substances. After passing the poles keep the western shore aboard.
On the opposite shore, a little higher up the river than the town of
Wusung. a sharp point Pheasant point juts out, off which there is shoal
water, while on the Wusung side the water is deep, especially at the
elbow of the river.*
Above this elbow, the opium vessels are moored along the western
shore. Abreast the northernmost of these vessels, bat near the eastern
shore is the Inner bar, from which a shoal extends about 3 miles up the
river. This shoal, known as the Middle ground, is rapidly increasing
in height, atd will soon form an island ; a great portion of it is visible at
* fv* Cbzrt "f Wurang mer. Huwgjol by Cnmander /. Ward in 1858, So. 1,601 ;
wsJe, n = 3 :>dae. Tbt direetioo* from the outer tar to flhmghai are by Captain
Sirr F. XietalwEi. H-M.> /**?**. April Ife5*.
CHAP. TI.] YANG-TSE KIANG : WUSCNG RIVER.
half tide. Between it and the eastern bank of the river is the narrow
ship-channel leading to Shanghai.
The Inner bar is marked by two boats painted white and red, which carry
a flag and ball of corresponding colour by day, and a light of the same
colour (white and red) at night ; the red light is very faint The white
boat lies in 14 feet at low- water springs, on the western extremity of
a shoal spit extending from the eastern shore. The red boat is in 12 feet
on the northern extremity of the Middle ground.
To cross the Inner bar, pass close to the southward of the white boat ;
then after keeping well to the northward of the red boat, steer boldly
towards the eastern shore until within two or three ships* lengths of it.
After the Inner bar is crossed, steer close along this shore to avoid the
Middle ground, until the junk anchorage is reached, about 4 miles above
the opium vessels. The vessel will then be above the Middle ground
and about a mile below Black point, which juts out from the eastern
shore, and has trees and houses on it. There is deep water near this
point and generally along the eastern shore, which should be kept aboard
until the houses of the foreign settlement at Shanghai are seen. Then
edge over to the opposite shore, steering for the British consulate, easily
distinguished by its jack and flag-staff, and as being the most northerly
large building.
As vessels of large draught are obliged to cross the Inner bar while
the flood tide is running strongly, care must be taken to sheer over
towards the white boat in good time. This caution applies with peculiar
force to sailing vessels, for the flood sweeps up the river and towards
the Middle ground with great strength. If intending to wait for high
water, be careful not to anchor too near the bar. If the vessel is of large
draught, it will be better to anchor below Wiisung so as to give plenty
of time and room to swing the ship ; for with a strong flood a vessel may
be abreast the bar before her head is the right way. No vessel of any
size should attempt to pass through the junks or across the bar in light
winds if the tide is running strongly ; and it should be borne in mind
that both flood and ebb streams continue to run for some time after the
time of high and low water on the shore.
As the bar boats are not unlikely to be drifted away, and may perhap:-
be entirely removed, owing to the negligence of the Chinese author!:
the following directions may be useful to a stranger in crossing the Inner
bar:
After passing Pheasant point, to which V good berth should ie
given, steer across for the second creek on the eastern bank above
this point. There is a wooden bridge across this creek, about 150
yards inshore from the bank of the river. By keeping this bridge in sight
200
NIMROD SOUND TO THE YANG-TSE KIANG. [CHAP, vi
and the mouth of the creek open, the bar will be crossed in tLe deepes
water ; then proceed as before.
When approaching Shanghai* with the flood, it will be advisable to
anchor below all the shipping, unless a good berth has been previously
selected. The space in front of the British consulate, at the entrance of
the Su-chau creek, is generally clear of vessels and always looks inviting,
but it should be avoided, as the chow-chow water renders this part of the
river very insecure as an anchorage ; the holding ground also is in-
different, and a vessel is constantly swinging round and round. The best
berths are abreast the Chinese custom house, along the west bank of the
river ; the tides here run regularly and with less strength, and a fairway
along the eastern bank is left clear. Vessels ought to be moored taut
with at least 36 fathoms on each cable, and a mooring swivel should
be invariably used. A heavy fine is imposed on vessels neglecting this
precaution.
WINDS. By a meteorological register kept at Shanghai, the prevailing
winds from 1848 to 1854 appear to have been as follows :
January
March
April
May - - E.S.E. to S.S.E.
June - - S.E. to S.S.E.
July and August S.S.E.
September - N.E. to E.
October - - N.E. to N.W.
November - N.W. and variable.
December - - N. to N.W.
- N.E. to N.N.W. and
generally N.N.W.
February - N.E. to N.W. and
generally N.W.
- N.E. to S.E. and
variable.
- E.N.E. to S.E. chiefly
S.S.E. and variable.
. The temperature by day and night taken by a
self-registering Fahrenheit's thermometer in the open air in the shade
at Shanghai, from 1848 to 1854, gives the following as the extreme
ranges and the average mean temperature of each of the mouths for those
years :
*
Maximum
m by day.
m
ir . . Average
Minimum .,?
, . , , monthly
oij mqltt.
* y mean.
Maximum
by day.
-, , Average
Minimum .,?
, i. monthly
bu niqflt.
y y mean.
o
o o
January
- 67 -
IS - 41
July
- 100
- 64 - 85
February
- 65 -
19 42
August
- 100
- 63 - 84-J
March
- 75 -
28 - 50
September
- 92
- 51 - 77!
April
- 79 -
33 - 59
October
- 90
- 37 - 67~
May -
- 87 -
37 - 69
November
- 80
- 25 - 56
June -
- 99 -
58 - 75
December
- 77
-19-46
The mean average height of the barometer in the spring and winter
months is above 30 inches, and in the summer months below it ; viz., from
January to April 30-25 inches ; from October to December, 30-34 inches ;
from May to September, 29-83 inches ; ranging lowest with southerly
winds and during the season of the North-east monsoon.
* Shanghai signifies, upon the sea.
CHAP, vi.] YANG-TSE KIANG; BLONDE SHOAL. 201
WEATHER January is iu general fine at Shanghai. In February,
thick fogs occur. March is damp and disagreeable. April has more rainy
days than any other month, except June, which is the wettest month.
Iu May there is but little rain, and that little occurs in heavy showers.
July is hot, dry, scorching, with considerable rain in the form of evening
thunder-showers. July and August are the hottest, months. In September
the South-west monsoon is wholly broken up, and the temperature is very
changeable. In November the winter fairly sets in, the first frost appearing
from the 12th to the 20th. December is the driest month of the year, and
the weather clear and freezing, though fogs are of occasional occurrence.
In May, June, and July fogs also occur.
The summer gales are strongest from the S.E., and generally give good
notice, the barometer beginning to fall sometimes as much as 24" hours
previous. The rules for judging the barometer on the Chinese coast
generally hold good for the neighbourhood of Shanghai ; a rapid fall
betokens a gale, and a high range the continuance of northerly winds.
WUSUNG TO HANKAII.
Until re-surveyed, buoyed, and local pilots established, the Yang-tse
kiang, above the red buoy at the entrance of Wusung river, must be
navigated with extreme caution ; the constant accumulation of a very
fine kind of sand having created banks, where, at the period of the last
survey in 1842, deep water existed, and shoals, which then were at all
times covered, are now, from the increase of alluvial deposits, at low
water in many places exposed to view.*
BX.OHTDJC SEOAli, which in 1842 had 2^ fathoms on it, and a knoll
marked to the S.S.W. of it, appear to have formed a junction, and the
bank made by them now shows at low water in several spots.
In November 1858, the vessels forming the escort to the Embassy,
Retribution, Furious, Cruizer, Dove, and Lee, passed to the westward of
this bank, but at low water not more than lo or 16 feet will be found in
the channel. The Retribution, drawing nearly 20 feet, had to wait until
half-flood, and then had but six inches to spare.
WEST BiiOiTDE CHANTJEXi. This channel was chosen in preference
to the one on the eastern side of the above bank, merely from its having
* See Chart of the Yang-tse kiang, from the sea to Nanking, corrected to October
1859, No. 1,480 ; scale, m = 0*2 of an inch.
The description of the navigation of the Yang-tse kiang above Wusung is by Com-
mander J. "Ward, R.N., -who accompanied his Excellency the Earl of Elgin in the expe-
dition to Han-kau, in November 1858.
202 NIMROD SOUND TO THE YANG-TSE KIANG. [CHAP. TI.
i
been examined and partially buoyed ; want of time preventing the examina-
tion of the other, which will be found to be the deeper, straighter, and more
desirable channel of the two. The course from the red buoy off Wusung
to the entrance of West Blonde channel is N.W. ^ W., about 7 miles ;
when that distance has been run, it will be prudent, if drawing not more
than 15 feet, to approach the land (a large and rather conspicuous clump
of trees bearing South), touching, with the lead, in from 3^ to 4 fathoms
on the edge of the bank off the shore of the mainland, it being less abrupt,
and affording more warning, than the edges of the Blonde shoal, or
rather bank.
As the monotonous embankments of this part of the river afford no
landmark that could be recognized from description by a stranger, their
height hiding the houses, &c. in the rear, the lead must be mainly depended
on. The course through the channel is about N.W.
A quick eye may possibly detect two small Joss poles which occa-
ionally may be visible, through the tops of the trees, over the embankment.
If seen, when brought to bear West, a push should be made to the north-
ward, clearing the north end of the Blonde shoal ; should the Joss poles
not be visible, a boat should be used to sound, and to mark the N.N. W. end
of the shoal, clear of which the channel should be crossed steering N.N.E.,
on which course from 8 to 10 fathoms will be obtained, until the bank
extending from Tsung-ming is approached. When in from 5 to 6
fathoms, steer so as to keep on the edge of this bank in that depth,
the course being about N.N.W. \ W. ; by this means the Doves Nest,
a very dangerous collection of banks, will be avoided. The Cruizer and
Dove both grounded on the 7th November, and the Furious on the
9th on these shoals, from which the following bearings were obtained :
village on Harvey point N. E. ; single tree W. by N. N.; great bush
W.N.W. ; and left extreme of Mason island N. W.*
The Captain of the steamer Confucius, in the pay of the Chinese
Government, reports that there is a good channel close along the main
shore ; but he acknowledged that his vessel, drawing about 8 feet
water, often grounded in it ; it was therefore not considered desirable to
try that channel until time permitted of its examination.
HARVEY POINT may be passed at about three-quarters of a mile,
and when a conspicuous clump on it bears S.E. by E. ^ E., steer
* The Cruizer kept along the south shore of the river, in 3| and 4 fathoms, and when
Harvey point bore North steered directly for it, by which means she grounded on the
south edge of these shoals. William D. Strong, Master H.M.S. Cruizer, 1858.
Mason island and Tsung-ming are now connected by a sand bank, dry at half tide.
The channel off Harvey point has narrowed, and the point is no longer steep to the bank.
Captain S. Osborn, H.M.S. Furious, 1858.
CHAP, vi.] YANG-TSE KIANG ; LANG-SHAN CROSSING. 203
N.W. by W. $ W. From 6 to 1\ fathoms may be expected on this
course, until the conspicuous Single tree marked on the chart bears
S.S.W. | W. ; then steer W. by N. \ N., making due allowance for the
tides, which here run N.W. and S.E.
PLOVER POINT may be known by the village on it, and a small fort
or breastwork. A number of junks are generally at anchor in a river
or creek opening at this point. When the fort bears S.W., the dan-
gerous banks and shoals known as the Lang-shan crossing may be said
to commence.
CROSSING. The squadron navigating by the chart of
the former survey in 1842 passed along shore, and was stopped abreast
Fu-shan by a long sandy spit effectually barring the passage, and for three
days the Dove and Lee, and the boats of the squadron, were engaged in
searching for a passage through, until at length the tail of the spit was
rounded by the Dove, but as low down as Plover point, and the squadron
had to return 13 miles.*
The fort on Plover point, which is low and will require a good glass to
make out, must not be brought to the southward of S.W., until Fu-shan
hill, if seen, bears West ; then steer for the hill. If the weather be clear,
Fu-shan will be made in the shape of a hummock, crowned by trees, and
a few white houses ; a small fort, like a mortella tower, standing on the
slope, may also possibly be seen. If unable to get a bearing of Fu-shan,
when Lang-shan pagoda, a very conspicuous object situated on the summit
of the highest of three hills, bears N.N.W. ^ W., and a white house oa
left bank of river, if distinguishable, N. 27 E., steer West, until the
pagoda bears North, the depth being from 7 to 9 fathoms ; then haul more
northward, W. by N. ^ N., until Lang-shan pagoda bears N. 13 E., when
the course becomes N.W. ^ N. until Lang-shan pagoda bears E. by N.;
the course may then be again altered so as to approach closer the left
bank of the river, which may now be, for some distance, kept aboard.
XU-SHAZT POINT, which when seen from the south-east is wedge-
shaped, the thick end 90 feet high being outwards and very conspicuous,
should not be approached in passing nearer than 2^ to 3 miles.
Great alterations have taken place in the vicinity of this point since
* Capt. S. Osborn also remarks, that " the tail of this spit alters its position almost
weekly ; for between November 14th, 1858, and January 10th, 1859, its bearings varied
from the fort on Plover point, from N. 55 E. to N. 22 W. The old channel across the
river, between Fu-shan and Lang-shan, is almost obliterated, and only 13 feet could be
found in it at high water ; the shoal water also between Fu-shan hill and Ku-shan point
has several islands of recent formation rising from it."
1
204 NIMROD SOUND TO THE YANG-TSE KIANG. [CHAP. vi.
the survey of 1842. An entirely new island, cultivated and inhabited,
has risen up ; the small islands, marked in the chart, appear to have
formed a junction ; and extensive banks, occasionally showing, have
come into existence, and are constantly being added to, by the earthy
matter brought down the river ; doubtless, eventually, perhaps shortly,
to become islands themselves, and add their quota of rice, ^&c. to the
support of the teeming population of China, while at the same time the
river appears to be scooping out the land on the opposite or left bank.
After passing Ku-shan point, the most anxious and dangerous part
of the navigation of the Yang-tse may fairly be said to have been
accomplished ; in no other portion of the river do we find the same rapid
alterations in the bed, especially in the vicinity of Fu-shan and Lang-shan,
where the strong tides appear to be actively and constantly engaged in
removing some banks while others are being formed. Until a good local
pilotage has been established, vessels, especially sailing vessels, proceeding
up, would act wisely by always having a boat ahead, showing the sound-
ings. The time lost in this slow mode of progress is not to be compared
with the loss of time consumed, exclusive of damage, in heaving a ship off
a sand bank.
A
HWANG-SHAW. After passing the islets formed and in course of for-
mation abreast Ku-shan point, the river becomes pretty clear, and a mid-
channel course may be safely pursued, steering for the high land about
Hwang-shan, (which, from Ku-shan point, looks like an island in the
centre of the river,) the lead giving no bottom at 8 fathoms. Anchorage,
if requires, can be had in Hwang-shan bay, but the water is deep. The
squadron anchored there, in 12 fathoms close in shore. The hills in the
vicinity range from 250 to 300 feet high. The rise and fall of tide in
Hwang-shan bay was from 4 to 6 feet.
STARLING- isz.A3JZ>. The river narrows to a mile between Hwaug-
shan bay and Kiang-yin, but immediately afterwards becomes wider. A
mid-channel course is still to be steered, following the trend of the river,
until approaching Starling island, when the left bank must be neared, and
may be kept pretty close (about a quarter of a mile), passing eastward of
the island.
A dangerous shoal bearing from Keun-shan or Chu-shan pagoda S. 63 E.
is forming in the river, and will doubtless before long become an island.
It shows at low water, and lies close to the left or eastern bank of the
river, with, at present (November 1858), a boat channel inside it.*
* Captain S. Osborn says that " this bank in January 1859 was dry to the eastern
shore."
CHAP, vi.] YANG-TSE KIANG ; SILVER ISLAND. 205
T The left bank of the river should still be
kept aboard, passing eastward of a long low island, which appears
to have grown considerably since 1842. No other banks appear to
be forming, until abreast the islet named Chang-sang-chau, where from
the right bank a dangerous shoal stretches nearly half way across the
river, to avoid which the island of Seau-sha should be kept aboard.
The river banks are excessively monotonous between Kiang-yin and
Keun-shan the left bank quite flat the only rising ground, through the
whole extent, being Ku-shan hill, on which are some houses.
TIDES. H.M.S. Styx, experienced a strong ebb all night when at
anchor off Ku-shan point in June 1854, and it was supposed that the
flood stream had no existence 10 or 15 miles below this point ; this,
however, must be considered to refer merely to that period of the year.
From the fact of the river then having a large body of water in it, the
downward current would naturally have greater weight, and check the
flood stream ; but in November 1858 the level of the river was lower, and
the influence of the flood was felt much higher, and on 29th December,
the level of the water being still lower, the flood stream was sensibly felt
as high as Nanking. The Retribution, Dove, and Lee were occasionally
compelled, on that day, to move their engingfe to enable them to preserve
a position off the forts, during the time some negotiations were being
proceeded with on shore.
"siliVER ISLAND. In passing Silver island, the southern channel
should be taken, being careful to keep a mid-channel course to avoid the
Furious rock, having 14 feet on it, lying about a third of the passage
over from Silver island ;* and a rock terminating some broken ground
which extends from the right bank. A quick helm will be required in
passing through, to avoid being at the mercy of the whirling eddies caused
by the check these rocks oppose to the stream.
Silver island is evidently destined to form a junction with the small
island called la-sha. A spit now runs out from the low flat tongue of
Around which has accumulated to the north-eastward of the high ground
of Silver island towards la-sha ; while another appears to be working its
way from la-sha towards Silver island, and the channel between the two
is clearly filling up, as the chart of 1842 shows 12 fathoms ; but no such
depth is to be found now, and the passage has become so narrowed,
* The bearings from the Furious when aground on the reef extending to the south-
ward from Silver island were : Golden island pagoda W. by S. | S. ; Keun-shan
pagoda E. f S.; and extremes of Silver island from N.E. E. to N.W. by N. At two
ships' lengths to the south-east of the reef there is a rock with only 16 feet water on it.
Captain S. Osborn, R.N., November 1858.
206 NIMROD SOUND TO THE YANG-TSE KIANG. [CHAP. vr.
that it was not deemed prudent to take the Retribution through in
November 1858.
GOLDEN ISLAND. After clearing Silver island, the left bank of the
river should be gradually approached, and passing Chin-kiang fu, kept
close aboard, to avoid a rock, said to have 10 feet on it, lying nearly
in the centre of the river, to the north-west of Golden island ; in the
vicinity of which island several rocks appear to exist.
Golden island is now connected with the mainland by a low isthmus
well covered with grass.
PIH-SIN-CHATT. Both channels, north and south of Pih-sin-chau,
appear to be safe and clear. The south channel was taken by the
squadron ; but as a Chinese Imperial steamer was observed passing
through the north channel, it is very probable therefore that it is navi-
gable : the Chinese steamer drew 9 or 10 feet.
In proceeding through the south channel, Pih-sin-chau should be kept
aboard ; and, after passing it, a mid-channel course steered, until abreast
Yen-tse-ki, when the left bank must be closed in order to avoid an out-
lying rock said to exist near the right bank, after passing which a mid-
channel course may be again steered, giving a mud flat, recently formed
at the north-west side of Tsau-hia island, a berth. After passing this flat,
the river appears to be quite clear.
.* Theodolite point and the Nanking forts may be ap-
proached within pistol shot. The (two) forts on the right bank of the river
are erected on a detached tongue of land in front of the city walls. Twelve
24-pounders, mounted on solid wooden carriages, were on the mud bank, in
front of the wall of the lower fort, not on it, consequently no shelter was
afforded the gunners. The upper fort on right bank mounted three 24-
pounders, and six 6-pounders, in the same exposed position ; some gingalls
and light guns were on Theodolite point, where armed junks were also
stationed. A fort on the left bank mounted a few light guns and gingalls.
Vessels forcing a passage should keep close in to the right bank of the
river, and steady rifle practice will effectually keep down any fire, especi-
ally as the elevation of their guns is great, and they never alter it. After
passing Nanking, a mid-channel course may be steered. At Sanshan the
Admiralty survey of 1842 terminated.
* Nan signifies South, and Peh, North ; thus Nanking, South capital ; Pehking'
North capital. Pak is thus pronounced in the Peking dialect, Pih in the Nanking
dialect, and Pak in the Canton dialect.
CHAP. YI.] YANG-TSE KIANG ; NANKING. 207
ELGIN- BEACH appears to be clear. A mid-channel course may be
taken, until the centre of some rising ground, about 150 feet hi^h and
3 miles S.W. of a remarkable rebel stronghold on left bank of river, bears
West ; when the right bank should be closed to avoid a spit, running to
the north-east of what appeared to be a small island.*
Wade island. The squadron took the channel east of Wade island, and
generally found no bottom at 8 fathoms. Some rebels in three small
stone forts, at a village called Tsai-shih-ki, had the temerity to fire a
few matchlocks and gingalls, but a couple of well-directed shots from the
Retribution knocked the forts down, and they were still in ruins when the
squadron returned at the end of December.
The channel west of Wade island is stated to have been used by the
TJ.S.S. Susguehanna, and to have 8 fathoms in it ; both channels may
therefore be said to be navigable. The western one, if clear, is decidedly
the preferable of the two, as by using it some shallow ground 3^ miles
W.S.W. of Tai-ping pagoda, and abreast the small village of Tang-tu,
will be avoided. Should the eastern channel be used, do not approach
the right bank of the river near Tang-tu, but pass close to the south-
west end of the small island south of Wade island, as a dangei-ous shoal
stretches out from the village before mentioned ; by keeping Tai-ping
pagoda nearly touching the south side of the small island, the depth was
not less than 17 feet.
The Pillars. When the river, as in January, may be considered to be
at its lowest level, close, the left bank to within half a mile, keeping
Tai-ping pagoda as before, and steer a mid-channel course, passing
between the East and West pillars, which are two rugged eminences
strongly fortified ; one, the eastern, is supposed to contain the treasures of
the Tai-pings.
From the Pillars the course up the river is southerly. Morton point
may be kept close aboard, passing eastward of a small flat island. A
rock just showing in November, but dry 6 feet in December, lies on the
right bank of the river, 3 miles south of Morton point and about a cable's
length from the shore, and would be covered earlier in the autumn.
WUHU REACH. Off the rebel city of Wuhu a shoal lies about a
cable's length from the right bank, and dries in December ; a mid-channel
course clears it, and may be steered with safety through the Wuhu
reach, gradually closing the right bank on approaching a range of hills
* See Charts : The Yang-tse kiang, from Nanking to Tung-liu ; and Tung-liu to
Han-kau, Nos. 2,678, 2,695, scales, m = half an inch : surveyed by Commander
J. Ward and Officers of H.M.S. Actaon and Dove, November 1858.
208 NIMROD SOUND TO THE YANG-TSE KIANG. [CHAP. vi.
700 feet high, abreast which are a small islet and some mud patches at
about 1^ cables from the shore of the left bank. These mud banks were
covered in November, but dry for nearly 2 miles in December. After
passing these banks a mid-channel course may be again followed, passing
southward of Barker island, from the north-east point of which Kieu-
hien pagoda will be seen.
Kieu-hien. As the difficulties in the navigation appeared to be in-
creasing, it was determined to leave the Retribution at Kieu-hien, where
it was understood liberal supplies were to be obtained. Good anchorage
in from 5 to 8 fathoms was found off the city, which stands on the
right bank of the river, about 80 miles above Nanking ; some conspicuous
hills, ranging from 1,500 to 2,000 feet high, rise some 3 or 4 miles to the
southward of it. The left bank of the river is a complete flat. Some mud
banks are accumulating about the south-west end of Barker island. A
mid-channel course should be steered, the least water found being 3f
fathoms ; this part of the river must be approached with caution. The
channel north of Barker island is supposed to be clear, and, if so, would
avoid the shoal water before mentioned.
TIDES. From the 24th November 1858, the day the Retribution
anchored off Kieu-hien, there was a daily rise and fall of 6 inches, but a
steady decreasing of the level of the river until the 18th December, when
the fall since the 25th November had amounted to 8^ feet. From the
18th December, when there commenced a week's constant fall of rain,
with fresh N.E. and easterly winds, the river rose gradually 3 or 4 feet
and the vessel swung occasionally to a flood stream. The influence of
the flood was sensibly felt off Nanking on the 29th December, and very
slightly off Tai-ping and Wuhu.*
OSBORBT REACH is clear. After passing Teih-kiang keep close to the
right bank of the river until clear of Osborn reach, and approaching a
large village built on the left bank, cross over, keeping that bank aboard
until after passing the village.
BOAR REACH. A mid-channel course may now be steered
through Wild Boar reach, which trends to the southward. Some high
land will here be seen on the left bank of the river, which was the first
rising ground met with on that bank after passing through the Pil-
lar hills, a distance of more than 50 miles. Keep the left bank of the
river in view, to prevent being enticed into a wide channel opening in the
right bank, and which at first has the appearance of being the main
* William F. Ilains, Master of II.M.S. Retribution, 1858.
CHAP, vi.] YANG-TSE KIANG ; WILD BOAR REACH. 209
stream ; it is about 2 miles to the northward of a walled village which
stands on the left bank. On nearing this walled village, close the left
bank slightly to avoid some shallow ground lying abreast it off the right
bank; after passing which, Wild Boar reach is quite clear, the course still
southerly. After passing a ruined temple, which stands on a very con-
spicuous bluff about 100 feet high, edge over to the left bank, to avoid
some shallow ground on the right bank, where the channel takes about a
W.S.W. course for about 23 miles.
Fitz-Roy island. Some shallows lie off the left bank of the river east
of Fitz-Roy island, to avoid Avhich keep the right bank aboard until
Chichau pagoda bears South ; then edge over towards the east part of
Fitz-Roy, passing through the channel north of it, keeping pretty close to
the left bank, as some mud flats lie on the north side of the island.
After passing Fitz-Roy island the river is again clear, and a mid-chan-
nel course may be steered, about S.W. by W. The country about this
part of the river is hilly.
Dangerous Shoal. About 8 miles to the south-west of Fitz-Roy island,
and about 1^ cables from the left bank, is a very dangerous shoal, dry in
December, but covered a month earlier. To avoid it, pass within a cable's
length of a conspicuous rocky islet about 30 feet high, named Tai-tzu-
chi, which lies nearly in the centre of the river, and cannot be
mistaken,
liang-kiangr-ki __ From thence until past Lang-kiang-ki, or Hen point
numerous rocks lie in the bed of the river. From Lang-kiang-ki a dan-
gerous cluster extends for more than half way across the river. la
November the outer rock was marked by a small bush sunk on it ; it was,
however, dry in December. To clear these dangers keep the left bank of
the river aboard, the course becoming again southerly for o miles, when
steer to the westward through Nganking reach.
REACH. Approaching Ngankiug, keep the left bank
of the river aboard, and pass close under the walls of the city, to avoid
extensive shoals and mud flats which exist on the other bank.
Nganking is an extensive walled city standing upon the left or north
side of the river. The river face or south side of the Avails is fully 1^
miles long. Extensive suburbs, which once existed, were now in ruins.
The city in November was in the hands of the rebels, but closely besieged
by the Imperialists, who, however, appeared in December to have raised
the siege.
After passing Nganking the river is again clear, steering south-westerly
until passing a sandy point, when the course becomes West, keeping on
the left bank.
[c.] o
210 N1MROD SOUND TO THE YANG-TSE KIANG. [CHAP. vi.
CHRISTMAS ISLAND. After rounding a small islet called Rover
island the course is again to the southward, gradually approaching Christ-
mas island, the southern point of which should be passed at about 1^
cables, to avoid some mud flats lying on the left bank, and only dry in
December.
REACH. Having passed the above flats, a mid-channel
course may again be steered, until approaching Tungliu, a third-class
city, with rather formidable looking walls, built on the right bank of the
river, and abreast which, on the left bank, an extensive flat is in course of
formation. It will be advisable to give the point, on which stands Tungliu
pagoda, a good berth, as, although shallow water was not obtained there,
a great commotion was observed in the stream, apparently caused by some
rock, or other check to its even course.
After passing this pagoda, keep on the right bank of the river, thereby
avoiding some banks in the centre, dry in December. The squadron, ascend-
ing the river in November, crossed over to the left bank, and became en-
tangled among these shoals, the Furious grounding on one; they lie abreast
three brick-kilns, looking like mounds of earth and stones. In January
the Furious and Cruizer cleared them by keeping close to the right bank,
and had deep water. When abreast Hwayuen-chin, where there is a
custom-house, having Joss poles, these dangerous banks will have been
passed.
On the right bank of the river here are some high ranges, but the left
is quite a flat, and although the river banks were in November and
December from 25 to 30 feet high, the country showed evident signs of
being frequently inundated ; sampans were found at most of the farm-
houses as far inland as 3 or 4 miles, affording a very significant hint
as to the state of the country, when the river is at its high level. It must
be borne in mind, that the left bank, probably both, would then be
covered, the river becoming a large lake ; under these circumstances, it
would be advisable to keep in the most rapid part of the current, as it
always runs strongest in the deep water.
BULLOCK REACH At Dove point the river takes a sudden bend at
right angles to its former trend for a short distance, the course being
about W.N.W.; keep the'left bank aboard, until entering Bullock reach,
when a S.S.W. course is gradually obtained.
Little Orphan Near the southern termination of Bullock reach is
the Siau-ku shan or Little Orphan, a most remarkable small rocky
islet, rising almost perpendicularly out of the river, and nearly 300 feet
high. It has some Joss houses and temples on its summit ; half way up
its southern face some houses are perched, probably the residence of the
CHAP, vi.] YANG-TSE KIANG ; BULLOCK REACH. 211
officiating priests ; if it were not for these convincing proofs to the con-
trary, it might well have been deemed inaccessible. In November it was
separated by a very narrow belt of water from the left bank, but in
December its base was connected to it by mud.
Immediately abreast the Little Orphan, a bold rocky head crowned by
forts and look-out houses, rises abruptly to a height of 400 feet ; at its
southern base is situated a fortified town (name unknown). The right
bank of the river is still rich in hills, which about here are very rocky and
uneven. A mid-channel course may be steered in passing the Little
Orphan ; no bottom at 9 fathoms was obtained, until nearly abreast
Siah-kia-kau, when the left bank was approached, to avoid some shallow
sand banks near the opposite shore, the course becoming about West
for 5 miles, when, still keeping to the left bank, it takes a more southerly
direction into Blackney reach.
BLACK.NEY REACH. About half way down this reach is a shallow,
apparently extending right across the river, and over which, in December,
the greatest depth appeared to be about 14 feet. After passing a village
on the north edge of a small creek or stream about a mile, steer S. by W.
for a low point, near which are some houses (Chang-kia-kau), until the
water deepens to 5 fathoms, when the right bank may be followed, gra-
dually deepening the water to 8 and 10 fathoms. Off Becher point a
sharp helm will be required, the eddies here being very rapid.
oiipbant island, lying westward of Becher point, is about 5^- miles
long, and divides the river into two branches, which are both shal-
low. The southern branch was used in November, when 3^ fathoms was
the least water obtained; the northern branch was examined, but not ap-
proved of, as although more water was found in it several dangerous banks
were sounded on (page 215). On 22d December the water had fallen 7 feet
since the examination of these channels in the preceding month, conse-
quently it was found necessary for the Furious and Cruizer, when descend-
ing the river, to wait a rise in the river before attempting either channel.
They were anchored off the imperial city Kiu-kang, and were detained
there some days ; when the shoals having been carefully buoyed, and a
rise of water having fortunately taken place, the north channel was passed.
The Furious grounded.
Opposite Becher point are several sand hills on the right bank of the
branch which conducts the tributary waters of the Poyang lake into the
main stream. A fortified ? temple, built on a steep cliff, will also be seen
on the same bank.
SEYIVIOUR REACH. After passing the west end of Oliphant island
the course is S.W. by W., past the imperial city of Kiu-kiang, which
o 2
212 NIMROD SOUND TO THE YANG-TSE KIANG. [CHAP. vi.
stands on the right bank of the river, and has most imposing looking
walls, enclosing desolation and ruin. After entering Seymour reach, the
trend of the river is more northerly, and a mid-channel course may be
safely steered.
Hunter island In November the channel south of Hunter Island wa3
passed through, but much difficulty was met with in getting the Furious
over a flat extending right across the river, and on which are several sand
banks. This shallow ground lies abreast some very conspicuous red cliffs,
from 40 to 60 feet high, situated on the right bank of the river. When
opposite the west end of these cliffs, cross the river carefully, feeling the
way by the lead.
1 In December the channel north of Hunter island was taken. The
Furious grounded, but after some hours worked a passage for herself
through the mud, and got into a vein of deep water very close to the left
bank.
COURT REACH. Steer in mid-channel through Court reach, about
W. by S., passing the town of Wuhiutsun, which stands on the left bank.
A lively trade in timber appears to be existing here. Three miles west
of this town some hills, about 600 feet high, occur, the first break to the
dull monotony of the left bank since leaving the vicinity of Nganking.
Abreast these hills the course becomes a little more northerly.
Futz-kau. Opposite the town of Futz-kau some shallows are forming
in the river. The right bank appears to have most water.
Ke-cnau. The course up the river is now about N.N.W. No shallows
appear to exist after passing Futz-kau until approaching Ke-chau, when
a remarkable ruined fort, standing on an isolated rock, must be closed, in
order to avoid mud flats lying off the right bank. On passing two small
hills about 2 miles below Ke-chau on the right bank of the river, steer for
the ruined fort, passing it a hundred yards outside, and the shore at Ke-
chau at the same distance ; by this means the mud flats which extend
some 4 miles parallel to the bank will be avoided.
REACH, which trends about N.N.W. and S.S.E., is now
entered, and appears to be quite safe and clear ; the left bank of the
river was kept aboard by the squadron, and no check whatever was
experienced.
3te-tau, or Cocks Head, may be passed close to. It is a remarkable
bluff rising perpendicularly to a height of 300 feet on the right bank of
the river, and cannot be mistaken.
tee Sock. A dangerous rock or rather a collection of rocks, on which
the l,ee struck when descending the river, lie abreast some limestone
quarries, at a placed called Shih-wuy-aou, on the right bank; in December
CIIAF. vi.] YANG-TSE KIANG ; WARD REACH. 213
there were only 6 feet water on them. From Ke-tau steer West, bein^
careful not to approach the right bank until Cocks Head is touching the
low point of the opposite shore (left bank), when the Lee rock will have
been passed to the northward. The right bank may now be kept aboard,
passing close to the densely populated little town of Hwang-shih-kang,
when the left bank should be gradually closed, taking the channel east of
Collinson island. A small rocky hill, 70 feet high and about 2^ miles
north of Hwang-shih-kang, lies on the left bank, and marks the commence-
ment of this channel ; in navigating which, the left bank is to be kept
aboard.
Collinson island. Off the north end of this island is an extensive
flat extending across the river ; 4 fathoms was the deepest water found
about mid-channel. A careful lead is the best guide here. The right bank
may now be gradually closed, and, passing the small village of Yang-ki,
kept close aboard, to avoid a bank on the opposite shore, and which was
dry in December.
PAHO TS.EA.CU. After passing a small ridge of hills, on one of
which is a remarkable and conspicuous boulder, cross over to the
left bank to avoid some shallow ground lying off the small village of
Tzko-kang ; 3j fathoms was the most water found at this crossing.
On obtaining 5 fathoms on left bank, steer boldly up the Paho reach,
passing north ward of two rocks, one 18 and the other 10 feet high ; the
latter lies north of the third-class city named Wu-chang-hien. In the
summer these rocks would be covered ; to avoid them, keep the left bank
aboard.
EytHesca channel. After passing Wu-chang-hien, a mid-channel course
may be steered, until abreast Hwang-chau pagoda, on the left bank of the
river, when edge over towards the Bythesea channel. The squadron ascend-
ing and descending the river was compelled to use this channel, there not
being sufficient water for the Furious in the eastern channel.
The Bythesea channel must be navigated with extreme caution, keeping
the right bank aboard ; it is so narrow that a vessel touching on either
side, and swinging across, would ground on the opposite bank, and have the
whole weight of the stream pressing her down. At an earlier period of
the year the eastern channel would have plenty of water in it, and, if so,
the Bythesea channel should be avoided.
The course now becomes North, and the river clear. Gravener island
should be kept aboard, to avoid sand banks on the opposite shore.
WASHING-TON REACH. After passing Gravener island, a sudden
Lend of the river leads into Washington reach, through which a mid-
channel course (about W.S.W.) may be taken ; 4 fathoms was the least
214 NIMROD SOUND TO THE YANG-TSE KIANG. [CHAP. TI.
water found in this reach in December, and the river was then nearly at
its lowest level. The right bank is to be approached on nearing some
rising ground about 300 feet high, which lies on that side of the river ;
from thence the same bank is to be followed, as there appears to be
shallow water off the left bank after passing the Pih-hu shan, or West
Tiger hill, a prominent elevation about 400 feet high. The river again
takes a northerly course (about N.N.W.), and appears to be clear, and free
from any impediments.
Yang-lo, a small town on the left bank, may be approached close to ; a
ruined temple standing on the spur of a hill, one mile south of Yang-lo, is
a conspicuous object.
REACH. A mile north of Yang-lo, Pakington reach is
entered, the course taking rather a sharp turn to the westward, gradually
turnin to the southward into Hankau reach.
REACH trends nearly S.W. and N.E., becoming still more
southerly at Hankau. The two last-named reaches are, by keeping on
the left bank, free of any impediments. North of a remarkable bluff (200
feet high), called Kin-shan, which is on the right bank of Pakington reach
one mile inland, lies a sand bank which dries in December ; it is easily
avoided by nearing the left bank.
Opposite Hanyang, just above the entrance to the river Han, lies an
extensive mud bank, dry 4 feet in December. A spit, gradually deepen-
ing, stretches to the northward from this, and affords good anchorage in
from 3 to 7 fathoms.
At Hankau, 384 nautical miles above Nanking, the river
still maintains the same characteristics, showing no signs whatever of a
decrease either in breadth or depth. The water under the walls of
Wuchang fu is just as deep as at Nanking ; no bottom at 9 fathoms was
obtained.
The cities of Hankau and Hanyang stand on the left bank of the river
and the city of Wuchang on the right bank. Hankau, signifying the
mouth of the Han river, is flourishing, and fast recovering from being
burnt down by the rebels. Hanyang and Wuchang are walled cities,
the former is utterly and entirely ruined, and nothing remains of it but
a heap of bricks. Wuchang is very extensive, and said to be much
larger than Canton.
The season of the year at which the squadron ascended afforded good
opportunities of observing banks and shoals which would be covered at
an earlier period, but no just estimate could be formed of the force of the
constant downward stream. A rate varying from 1^ to 4 knots was
CHAP, vi.] YANG-TSE KIANG ; HAN KAU. 215
observed ; the latter only obtained in certain localities. In the summer
the stream is said to obtain a constant rate varying from 5 to 7 knots a
circumstance which will effectually deter sailing vessels from attempting
the voyage up.
An immense fleet of junks are always at anchor at the mouth of the
Han, discharging and taking in cargoes ; and large fleets appear to be
constantly moving up and down the Yang-tse and the Han, telling tales
of populous cities in regions still farther inland.
The position of Hankau is lat. 30 32' 51" N., long. 114 20' E.
(approximately) ; variation 13' E. No observations for dip were
obtained.
Supplies Among the staples observed at Hankau were specimens of
excellent iron, quite as good as any British or Swedish metal ; the best
quality was selling at about the rate of 14/. per ton.
Coal was to be had in any quantity from 21. 5s. to 21. 15s. per ton.
The best quality appeared to burn very fairly when mixed with a little
Welsh coal or assisted with wood. It left a white ash, but seemed to give
quite as good results as Formosa or Labuan coal.
Flax, tea, insect wax, raw silk, copper, tin, and manufactured cottons
were also to be obtained. Considerable quantities of British cottons were
exposed for sale, as well as American drills ; all the woollens were Russian.
HANX.au to WUSTTNG.* The squadron left, Hankau on its return
voyage on the 12th Dec. 1858, and on arriving at Hwang chau, where the
deep water channel was about the width of the Furious and very tortuous,
it was discovered that the river had fallen fully 7 feet since the 3rd of Dec.
This difficult pass (page 213) was cleared without accident on the 13th, but
the Furious was brought up by a bar at about noon ; the water at this
point had diminished to 10 feet in the channel used in the way up.
On the 14th an intricate channel with 17 feet water in it was discovered
and buoyed, and the squadron passed through, the Furious grinding over
a 14^ feet patch of sand, which the strong current prevented the boats
from finding. The headway of the vessel carried her over the sand,
when she was again anchored to buoy another channel with a sharp twist
and a current through like a rapid. On the 15th, the vessel was taken
through this passage, though the risk, had she touched, would have been
great. In the afternoon the Lee struck heavily on a patch of rocks
(page 212) with only 6 feet water over them, lying nearly in mid-channel
to the westward of Ke-tau point, and over which the current was running
3 knots.
* The description of tlie descent of the Yang-tse is by Capt. S. Osborn, H.M.S.
Furious, 1858.
216 NIMROD SOUND TO THE YANG-TSE KIANG. [CHAP. vi.
The red cliffs (page 212) were reached on the 16th. The squadron
remained here the 17th and 18th looking for a channel deep enough for
the Furious; at last one was found with 15 feet in it, but turning sharp
to the right and left. After marking it carefully with buoys it was
entered ; the Furious, however, caught some knoll, fell athwart the
current, and as her three anchors would not bring her up, she drifted
through, the rolling sand of which the bed of the river is formed, yielding
to her pressure.
On the 20th, the squadron anchored off Kiukiang (page 211), and
boats were sent to examine the channels north and south of Oliphant
island. Only 4 feet were found in the south channel ; 10 or 1 1 feet in the
middle channel, and the bar wide and composed of hard sand ; and the
same depth in the north channel, the current running like a mill-stream.
As the Cruizer was drawing 14 and the Furious 15 feet, it was deter-
mined that they should remain at anchor off Kiukiang, and that the
Ambassador and suite should proceed to Shanghai in the Lee gunboat
accompanied by the Dove.
From the 24th of December it rained heavily with but slight inter-
mission until the 28th, when a 15-feet channel was found north of Oli-
phant island, the water having risen about a foot. Throughout the 30th of
December and 1st January the river was rising steadily. The weather
improved, and the sun acting upon the snow-covered hills, added by a
thaw to the quantity of water flowing on all sides into the river, so that
on the 2nd it had risen 2^ feet.
On the 3rd of January there being 17 feet in the channel north of
Oliphant island, the Furious and Cruizer proceeded by it, but when half-
way through the Furious grounded on a 13-feet bank. The anchor
coming home, the vessel fell athwart the current, and before another
anchor could be laid out, the pressure of the vessel had formed a sand
bank under her lee bilge with only 9 feet water on it ; fortunately, how-
ever, towards midnight the action of the current began to loosen the sand,
and at 3 a.m. on the 4th she floated. By buoying and sounding, the bar
at the eastern end of the channel was eventually crossed, carrying 16^-feet
water ; the tide running like a sluice. On the 18th the vessels passed
Nanking, and the next day arrived at Wusung.
217
CHAPTER VII.
EAST COAST OF CHINA. WHANG HAI OR YELLOW SEA ;
GULFS OF PE-CHLLI AND LIAU-TQNG ; AND WEST
AND SOUTH COASTS OF KOREA.
VABIATIOX 2 0' TO 3 30' WEST IN 1861.
The WHAWG KAi, or Yellow Sea, is bounded on the west by the
deep bight of the coast formed between the Yang-tse kiang and the Shau
Tung promontory, and on the east by the coast of Korea. It is mostly
muddy, and of a yellow colour near the land, and has been little fre-
quented by European vessels, nor has any part of the coast been explored
between the Yang-tse and the Shan Tung promontory, although it
is known to contain several excellent harbours, and to possess an ex-
tensive coasting trade. The following are a few of the best known points
of the coast.*
WHANG HO, or Yellow river, the entrance to which is said to be in
lat. 34 2' N., long. 119 51' E., is almost unknown to Europeans, but it is
stated to be little inferior to the Yang-tse kiang in magnitude. The
whole of the low coast between these great rivers is fronted by extensive
flats and shoal banks, projecting in some places above 60 miles from the
land, and rendering the approach dangerous for vessels of large draught
until better known, although there may probably be channels among
these banks in the neighbourhood of the coast frequented by the native
trading vessels. H.M.S. Highflyer, July 1859, had soundings of 12
fathoms, abreast of and 100 miles from the mouth of the Whang ho.
K.TAT7-CHTT, or Glue city, said to be in latitude 36 17' N., long.
120 12' E., stands at the north-west part of the head of a deep bay,
and is bounded by a peninsula on the eastern side. It has a spacious
harbour, and is the principal emporium of the province of Shan Tuug.
Teih-mei-heen, or Black Ink city, about 24 miles to the eastward, on the
bank of a river which runs into the north-east branch of the same bay, ig
said also to be a place of considerable trade.
* See Chart : China from Hong Kong to Liau-tung, No. 1,362 ; scale, d 2 inches.
218 WHANG IIA'i, OR YELLOW SEA. [CHAP. vn.
TTRH TAO, or Ear island, also called Staunton island, is in about
lat. 36 47' N., long. 122 16' E. It is of middling height, and lies near
the south point of the peninsula of Shan Tung.
ACTJEON SHOAX,. A dangerous shoal, lying to the southward of the
Shan Tung promontory, was sounded on by H.M.S. Actceon, on the 19th
February 1860. The least depth obtained on it was 22 feet, in lat.
36 311' N., long. 122 28' E.; but less water probably exists.
Approaching the shoal from the southward, the depth gradually
decreased from 12 fathoms at 8 miles south of the shoalest part, to 10, 8,
7, and 5 fathoms, and then rather suddenly to 22 feet ; it then rapidly
deepened to the northward. The land was in sight occasionally through
the haze, but not sufficiently distinct to get bearings of its extremes.
CAUTION. Until an opportunity offers of ascertaining the dimensions
and features of this shoal, vessels approaching its vicinity should keep a
careful lead going. It will be prudent not to make the land until nearly
on the parallel of the promontory.
SHAN TTTNG PROMONTORY, in lat. 37 25' N., long. 122 45' E. and
the easternmost land in China, is the eastern extremity of the Shan Tung
peninsula. The promontory is high and bold with a rugged termination
near the sea, and has a small pagoda near its end. The soundings are 16
and 18 fathoms about 9 miles from the promontory, but increasing fast to
30 and 40 fathoms when it is approached within 3 miles.
About 2 or 3 miles to the north-west of the promontory there is a
small but high island, named Alceste : it appeared to have a reef ex-
tending about half a mile around it, and there are some rocks above
water on the reef. At about 7 miles westward of Alceste there is
another round island at some distance from the main land, which here
forms a deep curve or bay, and is mountainous.*
Close under the promontory, in about lat. 37 23' N., is Sang-kau bay,
having in it an island called Le-tau, where the coasting junks anchor ;
and there is said to be a spacious and deep harbour, surrounded by rocks,
with extensive shoals on the left side of the entrance. Another large
harbour, called Toa-sik-tau, or Ta-shih-tau, frequented by the Chinese
junks, is also said to be near the promontory.
WEI-HAI-WEZ or Oie-ha'i-oie harbour, at about 25 miles west-
ward of Alce.ste island, -is formed between Leu-cung island, 517 feet
high, and a deep bight of the coast, and is the most eastern anchorage on
* See Chart of Yellow Sea and Gulf of Pe-chili, No. 1,256 ; scale, d = 3.9 inches,
corrected to April 1861.
CHAP, vii.] SHAN TUNG. WEI-HAI-WEI HARBOUR. 21Q
the north shore of the Shan Tung province.* It is easy of access and
capable of affording shelter to a considerable number of large vessels.
Moreover, it has two entrances, one on the west, the other on the east
side of Leu-cung island, thus affording a facility for access or departure
with almost any wind.
The western entrance, although much narrower than the other, has
the deepest water, and should be used by all vessels drawing above
18 feet. The soundings in it are 1.0 and 12 fathoms, but when abreast
Observatory island (a rocky islet near the north-west side of Leu-cung),
they increase suddenly to 17 fathoms, and decrease again rapidly to 5
fathoms ; after which the depth gradually decreases to the southern shore,
and into the bay to the westward, where the town is situated.
Round island and three or four adjoining rocks lie off the northern
point of the western entrance ; the outer rock, scarcely a mile E.N.E.
from the point, is 10 or 12 feet high, and steep-to. A rocky patch,
which covers at high water, lies between this outer rock and Round
island : no other hidden dangers are known.
The best anchorage is close to the west point of Leu-cung island, in
5 to 7 fathoms on excellent holding ground of mud, the island protecting
the anchorage from the north-east. At half a mile E.S.E., from the
eastern end of the island, is a reef of rocks, steep-to, but as a por-
tion of them always shows above water, they may be easily avoided.
H.M.S. Actceon, April 1860, anchored in 5 fathoms, with the apex of
Leu-cung bearing N.E. by N., small Gingall fort N. W. ^ W., left extreme
of Observatory island N.N.W., and Channel island, centre, S.E. E.
This position is only open 2^ points to the sea, from S.E. by E. E. to
E. ^ S., while to the westward the main land is well overlapped by
Observatory and Leu-cung islands.
Watering the ship was a tedious operation, but it must be remembered
the above period is the driest time of the year, and most probably a better
supply would be forthcoming at a later season.
An extensive wall surrounds the small town of Wei-hai-wei, and con-
tinuing up the side of a hill, encloses, as well as the town, a considerable
space allotted to gardening purposes. No guns were mounted on the
wall. The population appear to be fishermen and agriculturists.
Lai'ge fleets of junks come from Lai-chau and that locality at this
time of the year to fish in the more favoured waters of this neighbour-
hood.
Agricultural operations were going on, all over the country ; every inch
of available land was being placed in a fit state to do its work towards
* See Plan of Oie-hai-oie harbour, by Lieut. J. Crawford, 1816.
220 WHANG HAI, OR YELLOW SEA. [CHAP. vn.
supplying the wants of this thickly-populated province ; the grain grown
is buck -wheat, millet, kau-liang, &c.
The place of observation at Wei-hai-wei was at high Avater mark at the
east end of Observatory island on the north-west side of Leu-cung,
and is in lat. 37 30' 19" N., long. 122 07' 00" E.; var. 3 41' W. in 1860:
high water, full and change, at about 9h. 30m.
Supplies. No bullocks could be obtained at Wei-hai-wei ; the usual
answer, to the request for some, all along the coast invariably being, that
they had none, except the miserable two or three occasionally seen at
work in the fields. This answer, however, was intended to mislead, as
at several parts of the coast, a little way inside the first range of hills,
numerous droves were seen. Some 80 head were discovered concealed
in a sequestered glen within three or four miles of Wei-hai-wei ; in fact,
the province of Shan Tung appeared rich in cattle. A few ill-conditioned
sheep, and a small supply of poultry were obtained, and some pigs ; fish
(herring and cod) were in great abundance, and there was a fair supply
of shell fish. Of vegetables only a few onions were obtained.
Water in small quantities was found at the well of a village on Leu-
cung island. A small stream waters the eastern wall of the town of
Wei-hai-wei in the rainy season, but in the months of March and April,
with the exception of two or three little pools, into which trickled a
very small stream, it was quite dry. Another stream in precisely a
similar condition was found running through the first village south of
the town.
Fuel is not to be obtained, the natives having barely enough wood and
straw for their own immediate culinary necessities. A small quantity
of charcoal is consumed by them. The wood they burn is an oak scrub,
some few patches of which are occasionally to be found on the islands
and adjoining main, but the larger portion is brought by sea from some
better wooded district. No coal was seen, nor did the peasantry appear
to know of it.
DIRECTIONS. When bound to Wei-hai-wei harbour from the east-
ward, after rounding the Shan Tung promontory, and giving Alceste
island a berth of 2 miles, the course for the Channel islet in the eastern
entrance of the harbour is W. N., and the distance from Alceste
21 miles. This will lead about 1^ or 2 miles to the northward of Coast
island, and clear of all known danger, up to Channel islet, a small round
rocky islet about 20 feet high, which may be safely approached and
passed to a quarter of a mile. Vessels drawing 17 feet and less may
pass on either side of this islet, but those of 18 feet should pass to the
southward, rounding the islet close to, and steering for the west end of
Leu-cun " island, anchoring as above in from 5 to 7 fathoms. After
CHAP, vn.] CHI-FAU HARBOUR. 221
passing Channel islet the soundings will decrease to 3^ and 3 fathoms
over an extensive flat stretching across from Leu-cung to the main shore,
but they will increase as the west end of the island is approached.
In working in through the eastern entrance the lead may be safely
trusted, there being no hidden dangers as yet known. The shore
of the mainland may be approached to a mile, and that of Leu-cung
to 3 cables.
Vessels of large draught running for this harbour from the eastward
should pass outside of Leu-cung island. An offing of a mile will clear
all danger, and when a small gingall fort, on the mainland, on the west
side of the bay, bears W. ^ S. the western entrance will be open. The
vessel can then steer for the fort ; just to the southward of it is a
village, off which a fleet of junks are generally to be seen, and they will
assist in showing the position of the fort. The course should be then
gradually altered to the southward, and when Observatory island comes
on with the left extreme of Leu-cung steer for the anchorage.
Approaching We'i-hai-weii from the westward, Round island and the
adjoining rocks are conspicuous marks for the entrance. The outer
rock is steep-to, and its north and east sides may be passed at a cable's
length. The right extreme of Observatory island should then be steered
for until the gingall fort bears W. -^ S., then keep a mid-channel course
until Observatory island comes on, as before, with the left extreme of
Leu-cung, then steer for the anchorage.
CHI-FAU HARBOUR Cape Chi-fau, about 60 miles westward of
Alceste island, is high and bold, and when seen at a distance appears
like an island. Chi-fau harbour is formed by a receding coast-line
between White rock and Cape Chi-fau, and is sheltered on the north
by the Kung-kung-shan islands. The best anchorage, spacious and
sheltered from all winds, is under these islands in 4 to 5 fathoms.*
There is also anchorage in Village bay on the south side of the cape
in 2 to 4-g- fathoms, but a northerly wind sends in an unpleasant
swell, and a sailing vessel, with a south-easterly wind, would find a
difficulty in leaving it.
The approaches to this harbour according to our present information
are clear of all danger.
* See Plan of Miau-tau strait and Chi-fau harbour, No. 1,260- scale, m = 0'2 of an
inch ; and Plan of Ki-san-seu harbour by Lieut. D. Ross, 1816. Chi-fan is the name of
the Cape, and as applied to the harbour is evidently a misnomer, its proper name being
Yen-tai, and it is so marked in all Chinese maps ; it is known to the Chinese navigator
only by the latter name, and he -would probably not know what was meant if asked to
be directed to Chi-fau. The mistake doubtless arose from the first European visitors
landing at the Cape, who asking the name of the place, were told the name of the Cape.
Commander J. Ward, H.M.S. Actceon, 1860.
222 WHANG HAI, OR YELLOW SEA. [CHAP. vii.
Supplies. Only one or two horned cattle were seen at Chi-fau ; the
rest, if there were any, having probably, on the first appearance of the
foreign ships, being driven out of sight, or possibly, at this season of the
year (March and April), they may take them to better watered districts :
but in general, as at Wei-hai-wei, the people ignored the existence of any
except a small number for agricultural purposes. A few ponies were
seen, and donkeys and mules in abundance. Two or three sheep in
a miserable condition were brought off, also a small supply of poultry and
eggs. Fish, herring and cod, became abundant about the end of
March, affording occupation for the whole population, and were freely
parted with for dollars.
Water is the great want along the whole of this part of the coast of
Shan Tung, and appears to be more keenly felt at Chi-fau than anywhere
else. In March the Natives were bringing water in casks, or rather deep
tubs, slung between two mules, from some considerable distance in the
interior, the village wells not affording sufficient water to supply even
the very moderate demands of the Chinese population, whose only con-
sumption of it is in the shape of tea.
Fuel of no kind can be obtained here. The natives burn a small
quantity of a dwarf oak, mixed with a considerable portion of straw and
reeds. They had seen coal, but it was brought from the north, probably
from Fu-chau, in the province of Liau-tung.
ISLANDS This group, as before stated, shelters
Chi-fau harbour from the northward. The North rock or island of the
group bears E. f N., distant 7^ miles from Cape Chi-fau. When
approaching it from the eastward it appears round, with a smooth top
sloping southward, but when seen from the northward and westward it is
wedge-shaped. A small rock just awash at high water, and therefore
nearly always visible, lies N.E. by E. -| E. 3 cables from the North rock,
and is steep-to, there being 9 fathoms close outside it.
Double rock bears from North rock S.W. by W. distant 2^ miles, and
seen from the eastward appears, as its name denotes, to be a double
island, the northern part like a wedge ; the southern part, which is much
higher, being about 150 feet, is an irregular mound, rather elongated to
the westward.
S.E. island is 60 feet high, and bears from North rock S.W. \ S. 4^-
miles. This and the two islets just described are safe of approach, and
except the small rock lying off North rock, appear to have no detached
dangers. Three high rocks lie between South-east island and Kung-kuug,
the largest island of the group, but no hidden dangers have as yet been
discovered.
CHAP, vii.] CHI-FAU HARBOUR. 223
A spit, which shows at low water, extends southward and westward
from Kung-kung island : its extreme end has 4 fathoms close to, and from
it the highest summit of the island bears N.E. | N. northerly, distant
1^ miles, and the Mound N.N.W. W. This spit shelters the anchorage
from easterly and south-easterly winds.
DIRECTIONS. When bound to Chi-fau harbour from Wei-hai-wei, or
from the eastward, after rounding Cape Cod and Eddy island, the course
and distance to the Kung-kung-shan islands is West 25 miles. The
high hill over Knob point, kept on a W. by S. ^ S. bearing, will lead
eastward of these islands, giving S.E. island a berth of half a mile. If
intending to anchor, this mark must be followed until Stick-up rock
comes on with the eastern part of the Mound, bearing N.N.W. ^ W.,
when the end of the spit will have been passed, and the course may be
altered for the Mound, until Finger rock, which is conspicuous, comes
on with the west extreme of Kung-kung island, N.N.E. f E., then haul
up more to the eastward, anchoring with the centre of the island
bearing about E.N.E. in 4 to 4^ fathoms. The bottom is mud, and good
holding ground, and there is room for a large number of vessels.
If wishing to run farther on for the anchorage in Village bay on the
south side of Cape Chi-fau, when the mark for clearing the spit has been
reached, Chi-fau peak bearing N.W. will readily be distinguished. Steer
N.W. | W. for the head of the bay, and anchor in 4 to 5 fathoms,
with the extreme of the cape bearing about N.N.E. or N.E. by N. :
the bottom here is also mud. H.M.S. Actceon in 1860, anchored in
3f fathoms at low water, with Chi-fau peak bearing N.W. by N. ; Sentry
rock N.E. by E. ^ E. ; the summit of Kung-kung E. by S. S. ; and
Knob point S.S.E. On the south side of the peninsula, which is con-
nected with the mainland by a low neck of sand, is a village and a small
square gingall fort.
In working for this harbour to the eastward of the Kung-kung-shan
islands, North rock, Double, and S.E. islands may be safely approached
to half a mile, on the one side, and the mainland until the soundings
decrease to 4^ fathoms on the other ; the depth gradually lessens as the
shore is approached. Between the islands and Knob point is a mud
bank, from a mile to 1^ miles wide, east and west, having in one or two
places 4 fathoms at low water springs, but the general depth is 4^ and 4
fathoms.
In working towards Village bay, as the spit extending from Kung-kung
island is approached, remember the bearing of the hill over Knob point,
W. by S. ^ S., and do not go to the northward of that bearing until the
clearing mark, Stick-up rock and the Mound, comes on. A longer stretch
may then be made on the port tack, having care, however, not to approach
224 WHANG HAI, OR YELLOW SEA. [CHAP. vir.
the Mound nearer than to bring S.E. island just in sight to the left of the
western part of Kung-kung island, when it will be seen bearing E. f S.
over the sandy flat between the two portions of the island. This line will
clear the west sand spit, the south extreme of which bears from centre of
Mound S. by E. E. nearly, three-quarters of a mile, and W. N. from
centre of Kung-kung.
Approaching the harbour from the westward, Chi-fau peak, which is
980 feet high, and the land in its immediate neighbourhood forming the
cape or peninsula, shows out conspicuously, appearing from a distance
like an island ; the low sandy isthmus connecting it with the mainland
not being visible. There are no hidden dangers known at present in the
vicinity. Three or four detached rocks are dotted along the shore, but
they are all well within half a mile of it, and above water ; a course a
mile off, and parallel to the shore, clears everything. Sentry rock lies
S.S.E. of the cape, and may be rounded at 2 cables' distance in 7 fathoms,
and the anchorage under the cape steered for.
If intending to anchor under the Kung-kung-shan islands, after round-
ing the Sentry rock, steer for Knob point until the clearing mark for the
west sand spit (S.E. island touching the left side of the west part of Kung-
kung island, bearing E. f S.) comes on ; then run in on that line and
anchor as before directed.
Tides. It is high water, full and change, in Chi-fau harbour at 10h.,
and the rise is about 8 feet.
The COAST westward of Cape Chi-fau falls back to the southward,
forming a sandy bay, terminated by Sloping point, bearing N. W. by W. ^ W.
from the cape, distant 11 miles. Two small bays are also formed between
Sloping and Low points, the latter of which is distinguished by a
conspicuous nipple, or small mound upon it, 250 feet high.
TEKTG-CHATT is a city of the second class, governed by a Chifu. whose
name is Li, and whose authority extends over the neighbouring villages.
The inhabitants were civil, evincing no other feeling than that of
curiosity. The city is commanded on three sides ; the rising ground
of Teng-chau head, which is 250 feet high, commands it on the west.
A small detached fort also stands outside the walls to the west, but it
appeared to be unarmed. The city is surrounded by rather a formidable-
looking wall, but without guns ; a break in its sea face forms the
entrance to a small camber, in which a fleet of junks lie closely packed
and sheltered from all winds. The entrance is so shallow that a very
moderate sea breaks right across it.
The only trade going on appeared to be rather a brisk one in grain.
The little camber was a scene of bustling activity, some junks taking in
CHAP, vii.] TENG-CHAU. -- MIAU-TAU ISLANDS AND STRAIT. 225
cargoes of buck-wheat, kan-liang, &c., and others discharging the same
grain, rice, and fuel, consisting of wood and millet straw. Coal is
occasionally imported from Fu-chau. The shops in the city appeared
to have little else for sale but the usual description of grain and
dried peas.
Water A small stream of water empties itself into the camber at
Teng-chau, but its purity may be doubted, as it seems to run through a
large and populous part of the city.
DIRECTIONS.- The course and distance from Cape Chi-fau to the
anchorage off Teng-chau fu is first N.W. by W. 23 miles to abreast of
Low point, and then W. ^ N. 10 miles to the anchorage. If intending
to anchor off Teng-chau after rounding Low point, steer W. ^ N. until
Spit point, the south extreme of Chang-shan island, comes on with Island
head, immediately to the nortlnvard of it (on the eastern side of the
island), bearing N. % E. ; then steer for the town, taking up the
anchorage on the same bearing, in 3 to 6 fathoms.
But in running westward be careful not to bring the nipple on Low
point to the eastAvard of E. by S. ^ S., to avoid a dangerous rocky
ledge extending 2^ miles east of Teng-chau head and nearly a mile
off shore. This r.eef partially protects the anchorage from the east-
ward, as Teng-chau bank does from the westward, but it is entirely
exposed to the northward, and these winds send in a heavy breaking
sea, which renders the anchorage unsafe, and communication with the
shore impossible, the Miau-tau group being too distant to afford any
shelter.
The Teng-chau bank projects in a W.N.W. direction 6 miles from
Teng-chau head. A depth of 2| fathoms was obtained on it at high
water, with the head bearing E.S.E., and the west point of Ta-hi-shan
island N. | E. The bank has a general depth of 3 to 4 fathoms on it,
but there are some patches of only 3 to 6 feet.
The IVTIAIT-TATT or Meih-shan group, consisting of fifteen islands,
exclusive of two or three small rocks, extend in a northerly direction
from Teng-chau fu to within 15 miles of Liau-tie-shan head, (named
the Regents Sword by Sir Murray Maxwell in 1816,) and separate
the Yellow Sea from the Gulf of Pe-chili. The peak of the northern-
most island is in lat. 38 23' 37" N., long. 120 52' E. There are several
passages through these islands. Miau-tau strait, between the south part
of the group and the mainland, has generally been used by vessels bound
into the Gulf of Pe-chili ; but if not intending to anchor off Teng-chuu,
226 MIAU-TAU ISLANDS AND STRAIT. [CHAP. vn.
or among the southern islands of the group, there are much better
channels north of Chang-shan island.*
The Chang-shan channel, between the north side of Chang-shan and
Hou-ki, is decidedly the best, and may be taken at night if the
islands be seen. In fact, with the exception of the Hesper and
Fisherman rocks, and a reef extending a mile to the southward from
Sha-mo island, the whole of the entrances northward of Chang-shan
appear to be remarkably clear of danger. A small rock, which dries
6 feet at low water, lies in mid-channel in. the eastern part of the deep
narrow passage between North and South Hwang-ching islands, and
there is another of the same height lying three-quarters of a mile from the
north-east shore of North Hwang-ching.
Besides the rock in mid-channel between North and South Hwang-
ching, there is also a reef with a flat rock on it extending a quarter of a
mile from the north-west point of South Hwang-ching.
The Liau-tie-shan channel, north of the Hwang-ching islands, is the
most northern entrance into the gulf. It is supposed to be clear of all
hidden dangers, with the exception of the small rock (before mentioned)
which dries 6 feet at low water, lying three-quarters of a mile from the
north-east side of North Hwang-ching.
Supplies. On the first appearance of the surveying squadron in the
southern part of the Miau-tau group in June 1860, all the cattle in Chang-
shan and the islands in the immediate neighbourhood were concealed, and
eventually, during the stay of the vessels, removed either to the mainland
or the northern islands. Three days after the arrival of the ships nothing
in the shape of bullocks was to be seen, and on being questioned the
natives denied having any except what were in the fields at work. A few
pigs were procured ; also a small quantity of poultry. H.M.S. Cruizer, '
during her stay at Miau-tau island, obtained a few sheep.
To-ki, which lies nearly in the middle of the chain, although not the
largest island, appears to be the most productive. At the anchorage on
the south side of this island, H.M.S. Wellesley in 1840 obtained about
50 bullocks, and a supply of eggs, poultry, and vegetables. The
Cruizer, in 1859, was supplied with 11 bullocks, some vegetables,
principally cucumbers ; but in 1860 no cattle of any description nor vege-
* The description of the Miau-tau group, and the Sha-lui-tien banks at the entrance
of the Pei-ho, is by Commander J. Ward, H.M.S. Acteeon, in 1860, and from the
remark books of H.M.S. Squadron, 1840-1860. Sec Chart of Miau-tau Strait and
Islands, No. 1,392, scale, m = 0~4 of an inch; surveyed by Commander J. Ward,
Lieut. C. Bullock, R.N., and Assistants, iu 1860.
CHAP. TIL] ANCHORAGE. 227
tables were to be had there, the inhabitants declaring that the last was
taken from them by the foreign ships last summer.
At South Hwang-ching, although a small island, some 70 or 80 head of
cattle were seen ; they were small but in very fair condition. So many
on such a remote island gave rise to the idea that they had been trans-
ported there from the more southern islands, to avoid the observation of
the foreigners.
The villages on the south part of the Mia-tau group appear to have a
better supply of water than is usually found along the coast of the main-
land ; the village on the north part of Temple island has four wells. At
To-ki the PFellesley, in 1840, procured 30 tons of water in one day
from the wells of the village on the south side of the island. In 1860
it was with great difficulty that the Actceon obtained 5 tons with two
pinnaces in one day. A better supply may probably be found at a later
season.
ANCHORAGE. There are two or three good anchorages among the
islands forming the southern extreme of the Miau-tau group, but Hope
sound is the best, Avhere ships of any draught of water, and in almost any
number, may lie quite sheltered from all winds, so that even boat work
would be seldom interrupted. The sound is on the west and northern side
of Miau-tau or Temple island, and is sheltered on the east by that island
and Chang-shan, on the north by Chang-shan and Siau-hi-shan and some
rocks between them, and on the west and south-west by Ta-hi-shan and a
reef extending to the south-east of that island. Having several entrances
even sailing vessels under all circumstances of wind and tide may freely
run in and out of it. If drawing under 14 feet they may anchor between
Miau-tau and Chang-shan, and if this be too open to the southward, they
can anchor south of Chang-shan in 4 to 6 fathoms, sheltered from all but
westerly winds. The Actceon anchored in 4 fathoms, with Chang-shan
peak bearing X.E. by E. ^ E., the west extreme of Chang-shan N.W. by N.,
and the temple in the rear of Teng-chau-fu South a little easterly.
There is anchorage in 6 to 9 fathoms in Chief bay on the south side of
To-ki island ; it is well protected from the northward and westward, but
quite open to southerly winds.
H.M.S. Wellesley in 1840 anchored in 12 fathoms under Kao-shan or
Quoin island during a strong northerly wind, with the island bearing from
North to N.N.E. ^ E. about a mile distant.
TA-CHU-SHAKT, or Great Bamboo island, the easternmost of the Miau-
tau group, is 480 feet high, and can be seen at a distance of 30 miles.
Although of a barren appearance it has a village on its south-eastern side,
and cattle was observed on the sides of the hills. The island has a white
shingly beach around it, and appears bold-to.
p 2
228 MIAU-TAU ISLANDS AND STRAIT. [CHAP. vn.
CHANG-SHAN, or Long island, the largest of the Miau-tau group, has
a sandy spit named Chang-shan Tail, extending South a long half mile
from Spit point, its south extreme, with irregular soundings of 4^ and
2 fathoms to the southward, the latter depth being nearly l miles from
the point. The Tail shows at low water ; a tidal overfall is very percep-
tible on it, and continues so for a considerable distance across the straits
like breakers far to the southward of real danger. H.M.S. Furious, April
1858, grounded at 1^ miles from Spit point, with the east extreme of
Chang-shan just shutting in with the south extreme, bearing N. E.,
and the western end of Ta-hi-shan island N.W. by W. As night was
approaching there was no time for examining the shoal, but the vessel
appeared to have grounded on its southern limit, having 2^ fathoms at her
bows and amidships, and 5 fathoms under her stern.*
A small round hill, with a heap of stones on it, forming the extreme of
the land to the north-eastward of the village on Miau-tau island, kept
open of Ship point (a low bluff of a reddish colour forming the western
extreme of the southern part of Chang-shan), N.N. W. f W., will lead in
5 fathoms water to the south-west of the spit. The above hill is low, and
to the north-east of the village is a higher hill, having also a heap of
stones on its summit.
TA HX-SHAN and siAU HI-SHAN, or Great and Little Black islands,
lie to the westward of Chang-shan, and between them is a small island
named Miau-tau or Temple island, 310 feet high. Hope sound, on the
north-west side of Temple island, as before stated, is the best and most
sheltered anchorage among the Miau-tau group.
TO-KI xsZiAWD, about 10 miles to the northward of Chang-shan, may
be readily distinguished by its peak, 613 feet high, and is in the form of
a right-angle triangle, the shortest side facing the south and west. There
are four villages upon the southern side of the island, and one or two on
the north-east side. It is well cultivated, and fresh provisions and water
may be procured.
The whole of the southern part of To-ki appears clear of danger. The
small rock off its south-eastern point, and Mochang-shi islet off its south-
west end may be passed at a cable's length.
XAO-SHAN is a remarkable little island, lying nearly 5 miles W.S.W.
of To-ki. Its form is like a gunner's quoin, with the highest part (650 feet
high) to the southward. The island to the southward, named Hou-ki,
310 feet high, has a reef extending some little distance from its northern
side, and another off its eastern end.
* Captain S. Osborn, C.B., H.M.S. Furious, 1858.
CHAP, viz.] CHANG-SHAN ISLAND. HESPER ROCK.
ROCK H.M.S. Nimrod, June 1859, whilst steering for
the passage between To-ki and Kao-shan, passed a small rock just
above water, and distant about a quarter of a mile. The following
bearings were taken Avhen abreast the rock : North extreme of To-ki,
N.W. 1 W. ; the rock in line with the eastern extreme of Hwang-chin
island, N. by E. E. ; and the rock in line with the eastern extreme of
Ta-kin island, N. l W. This rock, Ave have every reason to believe, is
identical Avith the Hesper; for in the survey of these islands by Commander
Ward, in 1860, there is nothing less than 9 fathoms in the position
assigned to it.
HESPER ROCK This danger was discovered, July 1859, by J.
Loane, Master, R.N., Commanding H.M.S. Hesper, when endeavouring
to find the Nimrod rock. It dries from 4 to 6 feet at IOAV water springs,
and is scarcely coA^ered at neaps ; in fact at the highest tides a break or
mostly a ripple, visible in daylight and clear Aveather, shows its position.
From the rock the west extreme of Ta-kin island, which is 590 feet
high, bears N.N.W. \ W. ; the summit of Kao-shan (which is con-
spicuous and quoin-shaped), W. \ N. ; and the highest part of Ta-chu-san,
480 feet high, S. by E. The rock is only about 30 yards in extent, east
and Avest, and 8 or 10 yards Avide, and Avhen first seen, bearing E. N.,
it had the appearance of a wreck or abandoned vessel with her timbers
showing above water. Great caution should be used in approaching this
locality at high water.
i The Hcspcr passed the south and south-east sides of the rock at the
distance of 3 cables, and carried 12 fathoms water. When it bore N. ^ E.
it was in line with the east end of Hvraug-ching, and when W.N.W. it
Avas in line with the north side of To-ki ; attention to these two bearings
will lead either eastAvard or southward of it.
HOCK is nearly in the middle of the channel between
To-ki and Ta-kin islands, and is seldom visible, being only just awash
at low water spring tides. A ripple generally shows its position
during both flood and ebb streams when the sea is smooth, but when
either stream has ceased, no signs of it appear. From the rock, the
east extreme of Ta-kin island appears just touching the west extreme
of North Hwang-ching island, N.N.E. |- E. ; Quoin island is just seen
over the north extreme of To-ki, S.W. by W. ; and the western side of
Sha-mo island is in line with the centre of Siau Chu-san, S. by E.,
easterly.
DIRECTIONS. Vessels bound through Miau-tau strait from the
eastward, should not bring the south point of Chang-shan in line
230 MIAU-TAU ISLANDS AND STRAIT. [CHAP. vn.
with Island head, bearing N. E., until the north point of Miau-tau
island is seen clear of Ship point (the western point of the southern
part of Chang-shan) bearing N.N.W. W. This latter line of bearing
clears Chang-shan Tail, when the course may be altered to the northward
for the anchorage on the south side of Chang-shan. Or should the
anchorage in Hope sound, on the north side of Miau-tau island, be pre-
ferred, after rounding Chang-shan Tail, steer N.W. by W. f W., until
Ellis island is just seen clear of Club point, bearing about N. by E.,
then run in on that line and anchor, with Cairn hill, the northern summit
of Chang-shan, bearing N.E. by E., the temple on Miau-tau, E. S., and
the summit of Siau-hi-shan, N.W. ^ W., or as near to this position as
circumstances will admit. The bottom, as is generally the case on this
coast, is stiff mud, and therefore holds well.
If intending to pass through the strait without anchoring, after clearing
Chang-shan Tail, keep on the north side of the strait in 6 or 7 fathoms,
and be careful of getting into 10 and 12 fathoms, as the deepest water
borders the Teng-chau bank projecting from Temple point, on the southern
shore of the strait, to avoid which, Teng-chau point should not be
brought eastward of S.E. by E. until Ta-hi-shan island bears N. by E. ^ E.,
when edge to the southward, or if necessary haul round into Temple
bay, between the shoal and the rocks which extend nearly 1^ miles off
between Temple and Hwang bays.
On leaving the anchorage in Temple bay keep to the westward, to avoid
the rocks just noticed ; and if bound into Miau-tau strait, in proceeding
to the northward, the point off which they lie should not be brought to
the westward of S. b. E. until Teng-chau point bears S.E. b. E.
Vessels bound to the Pei-ho or other ports in the Gulfs of Pe-chili and
Liau-tung, are recommended to use the channel on the north side of
Chang-shan island, the course and distance from 2 miles outside of Alceste
island to the middle of which, is W.N.W. 99 miles. As before stated,
with the exception of the Hesper and Fisherman rocks, and the reef
extending a mile to the southward of Sha-mo island, the whole of the
entrances to the northward of Chang-shan appear to be clear of danger.
The channel between To-ki and Ta-kin islands cannot be recommended
to a stranger on account of the Fisherman rock ; but if compelled to take
it and intending to pass northward of the rock, do not bring the south end
of Ta-kin to the northward of N.W. by W. % W., until Kao-shan island
opens West of To-ki. In passing to the southward of the rock do not
bring the northern point of To-ki to the southward of West until its
eastern point bears South.
There is a narrow deep channel between the North and South Hwang-
ching islands, but at its east entrance, nearly in the centre, there is the
rock which dries 6 feet at low water, and, therefore, nearly always
CHAP, vii.] DIRECTIONS. TIDES. 231
visible. There is also the reef with a flat rock on it, extending a quarter
of a mile from the north-west point of South Hwang-ching.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, at the anchorage off Teng-
chau fu at 8h. Om., and the springs rise is about 7 feet. At Miau-tau
island, it is high water at lOh. 35m.. and the rise is about 6 feet. Be-
tween the Shan Tung promontory and the neighbourhood of Miau-tau
strait the flood tide sets to the westward, and the ebb to the eastward ;
but within the strait, a few miles westward of Teng-chau fu, the
flood will be found setting to the eastward, and the ebb to the west-
ward. This is probably the effect of the water from the Yellow Sea
flowing between Shan Tung promontory and the Korea into the Gulf of
Pe-chili, and being repelled from the Liau-tung coast westward, around
the circular shores of the Gulf of Pe-chili, has, when it reaches Teng-
chau fu, sufficient strength to resist and overcome the feeble efforts of the
eddy tide setting round Shan Tung promontory to the westward.
From Teng-chau fu the coast takes a W.S.W. direction for 25 miles, to
a projecting point, on which stands a village ; it then trends south,
curving gradually round to the westward, and forming the southernmost
.shore of the Gulf of Pe-chili.
GULF OF PE-CHILI.
ASPECT of COAST From Miau-tau strait the southern coast of this
gulf trends first in a south-westerly direction for 50 miles ; it then bends
round to the west, north-west, and north to the mouth of the Pei ho.
The shore is low and flat, and shoal water extends some distance from the
land.*
Between Miau-tau strait and Lai-chau the shore is exceedingly dan-
gerous, and should be approached with caution. Chi-ma-tau promontory
is a hill, about 250 feet high, joined to the mainland by an isthmus of
sand ; the sea face is abrupt, but reefs extend from it nearly 1-j? miles,
with 10 and 11 fathoms close to. Saug-tau island is low and flat, with :
large village on it ; the island is surrounded by extensive reefs, and should
not be approached within 2 miles ; the outermost reef has a sand island
on it. Lutai bay is full of shoals. Sanson or Saddle hill, 300 feet high,
forms a point in a sandy plain. Fuyung Quoin is an island resembling a
quoin ; a rock lies one mile outside it.
Lai-chau fu, or Edible plant city, said to be in lat. 37 13' N.,
long. 119 50' E., stands near the eastern point of the mouth of its con-
* The south coast of this gulf was sun-eyed by Lieut. C. Bullock, R.X., in December
1860.
232 GULF OF PE-CHILI. [CHAP. vn.
tiguous river. There is a fort and high craggy cliffs a little to the
eastward.*
The X.AI-CHAU BANK, of hard sand, and exceedingly dangerous,
extends 1 1 miles in a N. W. by N. direction from a low point between
Fuyung Quoin island and Saddle hill. The Saddle bearing S.E. by E.
leads in 7 to 8 fathoms close to the eastward of its north extreme ; and
Fuyung Quoin in line with the high sharp peak of Mount Elias, S.S.E.
leads to the westward.
HO. The vicinity of this river may be known by the singular
nature of the bottom a yellow clay, into which the lead sinks 4 to 6 feet.
Its bar is well marked by the Chinese, the estuary taking an easterly
direction through the banks.
From Lai-chau to this river the coast is very low, and skirted by sand
banks. From the Li-tsin ho to the Ta-san ho the shore is irregular and
broken by large openings ; the sand banks extend out in some places
3 or 4 miles. The Ta-san ho is smaller than either the Li-tsin ho or the
Pel ho ; the bar takes a northerly direction.
Between the Ta-san ho and the Chi-kau ho the sand plain is somewhat
higher, and the beach steep at high water ; at low tide it would dry out
a mile.
me CHX-XAU KO is a salt water creek, which enters the sea through
the banks by a narrow tortuous channel, having a bar nearly dry at low
water. It runs up about 3 miles to some villages, is 60 to 70 yards wide,
carries 15 to 16 feet water, and boats could lie in it in 2 fathoms at low
tide, and land troops or stores on a hard mud, not more than 300 yards
from terra firma. The springs rise about 9 feet and neaps 7 feet.
The anchorage off this river is open from North to South. The
water is very shoal, there being only 4 fathoms at 8 miles, and 2 fathoms
at about 2 miles from the entrance. There are shoals of 7 feet at about
4 miles from the mouth of the river ; a clump of trees bearing S.W. \ W.
clears the north shoal. Small vessels can close the shore at half-tide on
that bearing to about 1-^ miles, in 12 feet water. The passage over the
bar should not be attempted without buoying.
COAST between the CKI-KAIT HO and the PEH-TAHTG KO __
Between the Chi-kau ho and the Pei ho the soundings are still shoal,
the depths being only 4 fathoms at 7 or 8 miles from the coast. The
sands, which dry out at low water to a distance of 1^ miles, are hard,
* Horsburg, vol. ii., seventh edition, page 497.
CHAP. TIL] TIEN-TSIN HO OR PEI HO. 233
and men can walk on them without inconvenience. At about 8 miles
south of the river there is an inlet which may be mistaken for a river
and into which the water flows at half flood. At two places between the
Chi-kau ho and Pei ho the sea overflows at very high tides, but only to a
depth of a few inches ; the country inside is a plain of sand, apparently
dry, except at places at the top of the tide, and is almost entirely uncul-
tivated. There appears to be almost an unbroken line of sandy beach
at the high water level, raised sufficiently to be above the influence of
ordinary tides.
An extensive flat runs out between the Pei ho and Peh-tang ho, dry
land, appearing to run in about a north and south direction. The mud at
the mouth of the Pei ho appears to be soft only where it is thrown up on
the banks from the force of the stream.
SHA-X.UX-TXEXT XSXiAXTX) and BANKS Sha-lui-tien island, distant
120 miles to the N.W. by W. of Teng-chau fu (page 224), lies at the
south-east extreme of an extensive range of sand banks, which should be
approached with caution, particularly in thick or foggy weather. The-
island is low, but it has a joss house on it, which, standing alone and upon
an elevated spot, is conspicuous. Some of the banks dry at low water.
There are passages between these banks, through which small junks go,
and shoals innumerable, over which nets are spread, but there appears to
be no open channel between the banks and the mainland ; there is a junk
passage in some part, available only at high water.
TIEN-TSITT HO or PEI HO. * The Pique anchored off the entrance
of the Pei ho, in 5 fathoms, with the entrance bearing W.N.W. distant
about 7 miles, and the beacon on the bar W. ^ N. 4 miles. As it was
then nearly high water and spring tides, the vessel Avas expected to touch
the ground at low water ; not less than 23 feet, however, was obtained
alongside during her stay, which is the least depth a vessel drawing above
20 feet should attempt to anchor in. The forts were occasionally seen
in clear weather from the ship ; at times the flags could be made out, but
these were rare occasions.
The holding ground at this anchorage is excellent. A heavy gale would
bring in an unpleasant sea, yet with good ground tackling and plenty of
cable out it was considered that a sailing vessel ought to ride out a summer
gale. The anchorage seems to be a wild one in winter, but if the gales
are off shore, the sea would not be heavy.
* Capt. Sir F. Nicholson, H.M.S. Pique, April 1858.
234 GULF OF PE-CHILI. [CHAP.VII.
Bar. The bar at the entrance of the Pel ho is about 2 miles in
length, in a N.W. by W. and S.E. by E. direction, and consists of hard
mud. It presents less difficulty than the mud banks on either side of
the river entrance, for the passage across the bar is wide, while between
the banks the deep water channel is much contracted. Neither are the
banks easily distinguished ; at high springs the ripples over them are not
visible.
The river is very tortuous, as might be expected from its running
through a flat country, but no peculiar difficulties were met by the gun-
boats in its navigation in 1858 from its entrance to Tien-tsin. A vessel
of sufficiently shallow draught to cross the bar would reach Tien-tsin
without much trouble. Some of the straight reaches are shallow and must
be passed at high water in a vessel drawing more than 8 feet. At the
bends of the river the water is always deep as much as 6 fathoms ; it
need scarcely be remarked that all points must be avoided, and the vessel
steered round the elbows of the river.
The river is 200 feet wide at Tien-tsin, above this it soon contracts and
'becomes too shallow even for gun-boats. The Kestrel, of 6^ feet draught,
ascended it about 6 miles, and found a reach with only 4 and 5 feet in it
at high water ; the rise and fall there being 3 to 4 feet. From Tien-tsin
there is a water communication to Tung-chu by means of large boats and
rafts to within 10 miles of Pekin.
Supplies. At Tien-tsin and along the river ample supplies of bullocks,
sheep, and poultry were obtained. Sheep are very plentiful, and fatten
to a great size on oil cake. Vegetables rather scarce. At Tung-ku, as
the village about 1^ miles above the forts at the entrance is named, a junk
for watering the ship was filled, and the water after being allowed to settle,
proved to be very good. One junk load was about 70 or 80 tons, and the
Chinese were glad to load her and bring her off to the Pique for a trifling
sum.
DIRECTION'S. * " Having entered the Gulf of Pe-chili by the
channel between Chang-shan and To-ki islands, Miau-tau group, the
course and distance from Kao-shan island to the anchorage off the Pei ho
is W.N.W. 138 miles, with regular soundings of 12 and 14 fathoms.
With a strong S.E. wind caution is necessary, lest the vessel be driven
too near the Sha-lui-tien banks.
" The south-western part of these banks is very steep-to, the Pylades
having shoaled from 10 to 8, 6, and 3 fathoms, rocky and shingly bottom.
* George Norsworthy, Master of H.M.S. Pylades, 1840.
CHAP, vii.] TIEN-TSIN HO OR PEI HO. 235
Good anchorage was found with smooth water in lat. 39 2' N.'off the
western end of the banks, particularly in N.E. gales when the anchorage
off the river is much exposed.
In running for the anchorage off the Pei ho, having sighted Sha-lui-
tien island, do not come to the northward of lat. 38 54' N., on which
parallel the vessel will, when past the island, soon shoal to 12 fathoms,
and will carry that depth until the west end of the banks bears North,
when the soundings will decrease gradually towards the river to 8 and
7 fathoms, when she may either haul up for the anchorage off that place,
or prqceed farther north to the anchorage before mentioned, under the
west end of the shoals."
*"In running for the entrance of the Pei ho should the joss house
on Sha-lui-tien island be sighted, when it bears North and just visible
from the deck, steer W. b. N., and a run of 30 miles will reach the outer
anchorage off the river. In appi'oaching the bar, bring the joss house at
Tung-ku on a N.W. b. W. f W. bearing, keeping it well open to the left
of the southern fort.f A vessel should anchor and ascertain the height
of the tide on the bar before attempting to enter.
To cross the bar, weigh at three-quarters flood, which sets strong to
the northward across the flats ; stand in, keeping the joss house on the
above bearing until the mouth of the river begins to open, then haul up
N.W. % N. for a long house, still keeping the joss house to the left of the
southern fort, behind which it must not be shut in till well within the
river. The least water will soon be crossed, and when it deepens 2 feet
and the joss house bears W. -| N., haul short in for it. The position of
the banks will then be seen by the ripple on them, and the course is in
mid- channel."
TIDES During the period the Pique remained at the anchorage
off the mouth of the Pei ho, from 14th April to 10th July, it was
high water, full and change, at the bar at 4h. p.m., and springs rose
9 to 10 feet, and neaps about 6 or 7 feet. The usual depths on the bar
at high water springs were 10^ and 11 feet; occasionally there were
12 feet, but it was very rare. At low water the lead in several places
was barely covered.
In October 1854, the time the U.S. surveying squadron remained off
the river, it was high water, full and change, at 2h. 39m., and springs
rose 8 feet, and neaps 6^ feet.
* Capt. Sir F. Nicholson, H.M.S. Pique, April 1858.
f The forts at the mouth of the Pei ho have been blown up since the above directions
were written.
236 GULF OF PE-CHILI. [CHAP. vn.
The tides are irregular. North and N.W. winds retard the flood and
diminish its rise ; East and S.E. winds increase the rise and retard the
ebb. Slack water sometimes lasts 3 to 4 hours at the neaps. The flood
sets North ; the ebb S.S.E. The tide in the river runs 2 to 3^ knots
per hour.
Near the Sha-lui-tien banks the flood takes a W.N.W. direction along
their edge at the rate of 4j knots at the springs, and the ebb to the S.E.
at the rate of 3 knots ; on their west side it sets to the northward, but
its velocity is not so great. The tide at the entrance of the river is
subject to great irregularities, the stream in the river having a motion
more or less towards the sea, except when the prevalence of strong
southerly winds swells the gulf, and thereby augments the depth of water
in all the adjacent rivers equally with the Pei ho.
A strong north-west wind drives the water out of the gulf of Pe-chili,
reducing the depth several feet along the coasts ; but a southerly wind
forces the water into it, between the Korea and the Shan Tung peninsula,
thereby augmenting the depth considerably all over this shoal gulf, which
is gradually subject to a decrease in depth occasioned by the accumulation
of soil, deposited by the Pei ho and other rivers.
wxiras and WEATHER. During the period the Pique remained off
the Pei ho the weather was fine, but sudden changes of wind were
frequent, and as a breeze from seaward brings in a heavy sea, much
caution is necessary to avoid accidents to loaded boats.
From 14th April to 7th May the changes of wind were constant, and
rarely was it smooth enough for boatwork throughout the whole day.
Latterly the sea was much smoother, and boat operations were not often
interrupted. On the 7th June a very heavy squall came on from -the
northward, and it blew hard from that quarter until next day.
CLUVSATE * The climate in the Gulf of Pe-chili appears generally
veiy good. The weather, from the llth of July to the 8th of September,
was exceedingly fine, and the wind moderate, the thermometer ranging
from 72 to 80, and the barometer steady at about 29 50 inches.
Although the rainy season is said to be during the months of July and
August the rain was distributed over the earlier summer months, and
very little fell in August and September.
The winter begins at the commencement of November, and ends early
in April, during which period the rivers are frozen, and the sea to a
* Commander J. Bythesea, R.N., 1858.
CHAP, vii.] GULF OF LIAU-TUNG ; EAST COAST. 237
distance of 3 or 4 miles from the shore. Snow falls from 2 inches to
2 feet ; the latter is considered severe.*
GULF OF LIAU-TUNG.
The shores of this extensive gulf were almost a terra incognita to
Europeans until the year 1793, when H.M. Ships Discovery and Alceste
navigated its southern portion and anchored in Hulu Shan bay. In
August 1855, H.M.S. Bittern sailed along the eastern coast and anchored
in Fu-chu bay and off the port of Niu-chwang. Subsequently, in July
1859, a survey was made by Commander J. Bythesea, H.M.S. Cruizer,
and Major A. Fisher, Royal Engineers, of part of the western coast of
the gulf, from the Great Wall of China to the Chi ho, at 25 miles south
of the Pei ho.
The remaining shores of the gulf were surveyed in the fall of the year
1860 by Commander J. Ward, Lieut. C. Bullock, R.N., and Assistants.
They have discovered and surveyed a fine harbour, named Port Adams,
on the east coast of the gulf. It is formed at the head of a deep
indentation (Society bay) of the coast line, and its entrance is in
lat. 39 16' N., long. 121 32' E. It affords secure shelter for a large
number of vessels, and at high tide offers a passage of 23 feet water.
No large towns or symptoms of trade were observed in its vicinity.
SHAW BAY, on the eastern coast of the Gulf of Liau-tung,
affords excellent shelter from north or north-easterly gales. It is about
7 or 8 miles wide, and its north point, when bearing N.N.E. 1 E., has
an abrupt aspect, sloping to the northward and vertical towards the sea ;
and has a reddish appearance. The land here is moderately high, and
may be seen at the distance of from 24 to 27 miles. Between 2 and 3
miles within the point is the watering place, which it is not prudent
to approach nearer than 3^ fathoms, at low water. H.M.S. Blonde
in August 1840 anchored in 8^ fathoms, with the north point bearing
N.N.W. W. ; village E. N. ; a remarkable red hill E. ^ S. ; watering
place E. by N. 1 N. ; and south point of bay S. W.f
The Discovery and Alceste anchored in the northern part of this bay,
August 16th, 1793, and by observations taken at a mile to the east-
ward of the north point, the lat. was 39 31' 35" N., long. 121 19]' E.
The former vessel obtained water easily from the second stony beach to
* For description of coast northward of the Pei ho, see pages 241-246.
t See Plan of Hulu Shan Bay, No. 1,393 ; scale, m = half an inch.
238 GULF OF LIAU-TUNG ; EAST COAST. [CHAP. vii.
the eastward of the point ; but the Alceste filled water farther to the
eastward, where there was a better stream, although, on account of a flat,
not so easily obtained.
When approaching this anchorage, the soundings continued regular
until passing the first point about a mile, when they began to decrease
fast, so that 2 miles within it there were but 3 fathoms water. When at
anchor in 5 fathoms, the north point of the bay bore N.W. ^ N., the
southern point S. ^ W., a remarkable red hummock East a little northerly,
a village E.N.E., distant about one mile off the nearest shore to the
northward. Whilst at anchor here, numerous junks were seen passing
to and from the northward, many of which appeared deeply laden. The
inhabitants were civil, but from their being totally ignorant of the value
of dollars, the ships were unable to procure any refreshments. From the
summit of a hill extensive lakes were seen to the eastward.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, in Hulu Shan bay at
2h. 30m., and the rise is about 9 feet.
FIT-CHIT BAT. The land on the north side of Fu-chu bay, the next
inlet to the northward of Hulu Shan, is of singular formation, and bears
such a resemblance to extensive fortifications that at first sight there is
a difficulty in believing they are not forts. The westernmost hill having
this appearance is the largest, and has a small conical projection above its
regular surface ; two others with flat summits are near this to the east-
ward, and they all have a remarkable appearance from north or south.*
When standing Into the bay the soundings will decrease gradually from
13 and 14 to 8, 9, 6, and 5 fathoms ; the latter depths being carried some
distance before they decrease. The Bittern carried 3 fathoms for a con-
siderable distance, when endeavouring to close a fleet of piratical vessels,
and at length hauled out in a few inches more than her draught.
The city of Fu-chu, said to command no trade, is some little distance
up a river which runs into this bay. It produces coal, a sample of which,
as also one of a manufactured article of combustion, were procured, and
both found to be of little worth.
DIRECTION'S. A vessel, after avoiding a reef, which will be seen off
the south-west point of Fu-chu bay, may stand boldly in to the north-
east and find capital anchorage in 5 fathoms water, with an island in the
bay (which, from its appearance, was called Flat Top isle), bearing from
E. by N. to E.N.E. ; north-east extremity of the bay about N. by E. ; and
a projecting point (Flat cape) S.E.
Capt. E. W. Vansittart, H.M.S. Bittern, August 1855.
CHAP, vii.] FU-CHU BAY. KAI-CHU FU. 239
In leaving this anchorage for the northward or coming in from that
direction, care must be taken to avoid a spit which extends about 2 miles
to the S.S.W. from a point to the westward of Flat Top isle, and upon
which the sea sometimes breaks.
From Fu-chu bay the Bittern steered to the north-east, keeping gene-
rally about 10 miles off shore, in regular soundings, which decreased,
as she proceeded, from 12 to 9, 7, 6, and 5 fathoms to lat. 40 12' N.,
when the depth decreased suddenly to 3^ fathoms on a bank, said by
the Chinese to extend from the shore. An island, which was named
Saddle,* then bore E. b. N. N., and hauling out to the north-west,
when Saddle bore East the water deepened to 14 and 17 fathoms. The
depth was soon found steady at 12 fathoms, and she again kept to the
north-east, the water gradually shoaling until she anchored for the night
in 5^ fathoms.
The land on this part of the coast has a barren and irregular appearance,
but not very low.
In a bay 10 or 15 miles to the northward of Fu-chu, a remarkable
rock was observed, resembling a fore-and-aft schooner with gaff top-
sails set.
KAI-CHU PIT, in about lat. 40 30' N., long. 122 25' E., and 10 miles
inland, is surrounded by a high wall ; the houses are low and ill built,
but thickly inhabited, and it has an extensive trade. The Sylph, opium
trader, in November 1832, was obliged to anchor here at a great distance
from the land, there being only 2- fathoms water about 6 miles off, so flat
is this part of the gulf. Not being able to communicate with the shore,
which was fronted with ice, and having no shelter from strong north
winds, this vessel proceeded from hence towards King-chu fu, a place
of considerable trade, about 20 miles inland, on the bank of a river that
falls into the northern part of the gulf, where, it is said, vessels may
anchor in lat. 40 37' N., about 6 miles off shore.
There are several dangerous shoals in the upper part of the gulf ; for
the Sylph, after weighing from the coast at Kai-chu fu, deepened gradu-
ally to 4, 5, and 6 fathoms, then grounded on a shoal in lat. 40 34' N.,
long. 121 48' E., about 24 miles from the land, and narrowly escaped
being wrecked, the vessel striking hard for a considerable time, until the
wind changed from the north-eastward to the southward, which raised the
water in the gulf, and floated her clear of the shoal.
* This Saddle is a peninsula and not an island. Commander J. Ward, September,
1860.
240 GULF OF LIAU-TUNG; EAST COAST.
NTU-CKWANG CITY and FORT. H.M.S. Bittern anchoi-ed in 4
fathoms in the north-east part of the gulf in lat. 40 38' N., long.
122 00' E. The land, although only 7 or 8 miles distant, had become
so low as not to be visible from the deck, but from the mast head its
extremes bore S. E. and N.W. by W.; the latter being the bearing
of a hummock detached a short distance from the land to the eastward
of it. To the north-east a large town was observed and found to be
2 or 3 miles within the bar of a large river,* which leads about 20
miles up to the city of Niu-chwang, reported to be of considerable
extent and commercial importance. In this, its seaport town, there were
evident signs of the existence of an extensive and thriving commerce in
quiet times. The houses are mostly of one story high, built of stone and
unburnt brick, with substantial roofs to them ; light is admitted through
oiled paper in the windows. The sti'eets and roads were masses of mud
and filth. The inhabitants had not before seen Europeans ; they bear a
strong resemblance to the purer Chinese, but are perhaps of smaller
stature.
The channel used by the large junks and the deepest into this river is
on the southern side of the entrance, where 4 and 5 fathoms water were
found over the bar, but the officers of the Bittern were unable to carry
these soundings out to the ship, or determine if a channel of any such
depths extended so far.
Supplies are plentiful at the port of Niu-chwang, and large stores of
grain were shown in spacious enclosures. Fish were in abundance and
cheap. Coal is procurable from Niu-chwang, but the 30 tons the Bittern
obtained proved of very inferior quality. A large supply of hemp, it was
said, could be always furnished ; a sample of white hemp rope was pro--
cured, costing by retail 5 or 6 cents per pound, and which is in various
sizes from 1 to 6 inch.
TIDES During the Bittern's stay off this port the depth of water
varied from 5 to 3^ fathoms, which was about the period of neap tides,
showing a greater rise and fall than is experienced on the coast of Shan
Tung ; but the tides in the Gulf of Liau-tung must be greatly influenced
by seasons and local circumstances. Upon one occasion in Fu-chu bay
the depth varied only 2 feet.
The flood tide sets to the eastward and the ebb out of the gulf.
DIRECTIONS. The Chinese pilots state that islands and shoal water
will be found in the upper and centre parts of the Gulf of Liau-tung, and
that large trading junks bound from Niu-chwang and neighbouring ports
* TheLiauho.
CHAP, vii.] NIU-CHWANG. GREAT WALL OF CHINA. 241
to the Pei-ho keep on the eastern shore of the gulf to Hulu Shan bay, or
even farther south, before they steer across to the -westward.
The Bittern, when proceeding down the gulf, kept a greater offing and
carried regular soundings increasing from 5 to 16 fathoms off Fu~chu
bay. The pilots stated there were other shoals to the westward of the
spit on which she nearly grounded on her way up.
If vessels should be obliged to visit these regions they ought to be sup-
plied with Chinese pilots ; these, however, can only be trusted to a certain
extent. A stranger should start with an offing of about 10 miles from the
western head of Hulu Shan bay, and steer N.E. by N., preserving a dis-
tance of 15 miles off shore to avoid the dangerous sand spit extending 10
cr 1 2 miles from the shore in lat. 40 12' N., and when Saddle island bears
E. by S. edge to the eastward ; soundings gradually decreasing from 14
fathoms will then be carried to the anchorage off the Liau ho.
WXCTDS. The winds and weather were variable in the month of
August 1855, during the Bittern's visit to the Gulfs of Liau-tung and Pe-
chili, and the Aviud seldom lasted long from one direction. The monsoons
are said to be less felt here than farther south ; trading junks make three
or four voyages in the year between Ning-po and Niu-chwaug, or other
northern ports in the Gulf of Liau-tung.
The barometer ranged between 29'70 in. and 30-10 in. ; the thermo-
meter between 70 and 80 of Fahrenheit.
The GREAT WAiii of CHIWA abuts the sea on the western shore
of the Gulf of Liau-tung, in lat. 39 58' N., long. 119 51' E., originating
within 100 yards of the beach, and having a masonry pier jutting out
into the sea. The Wall rises generally from 20 to 30 feet, in sections
similar to the walls of Chinese cities, and with a thickness of 15 to 25
feet. Running round and inclosing a portion of ground close to the
seaside, and thus converting it into a fort, it then runs obliquely inward
to the west, and at a distance of about 1^ miles from the beach, embraces
the city of Ning-hai ; then striking over the highly cultivated plains at
the foot of the mountains, it runs up one of the ridges, and apparently to
a o-reat extent along the higher portion of the chain, the different towers
marking at intervals its course, after it has itself ceased to be visible.
These mountains, about 2,000 feet high, approach to within about 4^ miles
of the beach, and though to a certain extent covered with vegetation they
are devoid of all cultivation ; not so, however, the plain at their foot,
which rises gradually from the sea shore to a height of about 450 feet up
the side of the hills.
' This part, of the country appears to enjoy considerable prosperity, and
is in a high state of cultivation ; wheat, millet, and maize are mainly
grown, and it is dotted over with villages and trees.
[c.]
242 GULF OF LIAU-TUNG ; WEST COAST. [CHAP. vn.
From Ning-hai runs (along the plain at the foot of the mountains) the
great high road to Peking, along which a great traffic exists. From
accounts gathered from the country people the distance is said to be 680
li* or 223 miles English, though, according to the longitude of Peking as
generally received (116 32' E.), the distance would not appear to be
more than 150 miles. The road is described as being good, and fit for
the passage of the country carts. As a rule it passes along the foot of the
mountain ranges, though at times it runs over some hills of no great
elevation. It does not lead through any woods or forest, though groves
of trees exist in its vicinity in certain localities. The road is crossed
at intervals by rivers, but there are none of any size; they are not
bridged over, but are forded, except after heavy rains, when there are
ferry-boats for travellers.
NING-HAI. The anchorage off Ning-hai is near the extremity of the
Great Wall. It is open from N.E., round easterly to West. With the
pagoda bearing N. by W. the depth is 4^ fathoms at 1^ miles, and 2
fathoms at a quarter of a mile, from the shingle beach ; inside the latter
depth the bottom is rocky and unsafe. A shoal with only 3 feet on it
and steep-to, extends about a mile off Shoal point.
Supplies. The land in the vicinity of Ning-hai is pasture and culti-
vated, and cattle and corn are abundant.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, at Ning-hai at 12h., and the
rise is about 6 feet.
CREEK POINT. The sandy bay to the westward of Ning-hai,
between Shoal point and Creek point, a distance of 8 miles, appears
clear of rocks ; the beach is steep, and the 5-fathoms line of soundings
about 2 miles from the shore. A cultivated plain extends from the
mountains (4 to 5 miles distant) almost to the water's edge ; horses
and cattle abound, and a large portion of the country is good pasture
land.
The passage into the creek to the westward of Creek point is shoal,
serpentine, and nearly dry at low water ; small junks go in at high water.
The rise and fall is 6 feet.
BAT, between Creek point and Rocky point is about a mile
deep, clear of rocks, and the shore is sufficiently steep to allow large boats
to land easily. The depth is 2 fathoms at half a mile, and 4^ fathoms at
2 miles from the shore. A reef of rocks, which generally breaks, encircles
Rocky point at half a mile distant.
*
* A Chinese li is about one-third of a geographic mile.
CHAP, vii.] MXG-HAI. - PU HO.
The anchorage off Liu-sia-kwang is open from
N.E. by E. to S.W. The depth is 41 fathoms at 2^ miles, and 2 fathoms
at a quarter of a mile from the beach, which is of sand.
The passage into the beach, near Liu-sia-kwang, is between two sand
banks, the one running out from Rocky point, the other from the mouth
of the river Tai-cho. The depth in the passage is 2 fathoms at three-
quarters of a mile, and 4|- fathoms at 2 miles from the shore ; the beach
is steep, and the landing good. The rise and fall of tide is 6 feet.
The land about Liu-sia-kwang is cultivated from the water's edge to
the foot of the mountains, which are 4 to 5 miles distant. Horses and
bullocks are abundant.
Water. There are two wells of good water at the village near the
beach.
TAI-CHO HO and YANG HO. The river Tai-cho enters the sea at
about 1^ miles to the south-west of Liu-sia-kwang. This river is described
as short, arid arising from the low hills at the back of Liu-sia-kwang, and
running in a westerly direction, it does not cross the great road to Peking.
The bar at the river entrance has only 1^ feet on it at low water.
Between the bar and Liu-sia-kwang the soundings are shoal.
The river Yang, which enters the sea at 2^ miles to the south-west of
the Tai-cho, is very shallow, and though a few junks pass a short distance
up the river at high water, the greater number discharge their cargo just
within its mouth, whence it is carried into the interior in carts. The
depth is 1^ feet over the bar, and the rise and fall 6 feet. The beach is
composed of sand and mud.
The anchorage off the Yang is open from N.E. by E. to S.W. The
water is shoal, the depth being 4^ fathoms at about 4 miles and 2 fathoms
at about 1^ miles from the river's mouth.
The land adjoining the sea to the southward of the river Yang becomes
less fertile, and apparently at high tides partially covered. A line of sand-
hills runs along the beach, at the distance of 300 yards from the water's
edge, and extends inwards in places for about a mile. Near the Yang is ;i
small earthen battery for four guns, with a musketry parapet, but without
any huts or accommodation for troops.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, at the entrance of the rivers
Tai-cho and Yang at Oh. lorn. ; and the rise is about 6 feet.
The PTJ HO, which enters the sea at 7 mile's south of the Yang, though
shallow and of no great length, is made use of by junks at high water.
They discharge their cargoes near a dilapidated fort on the north bank,
about a mile from the entrance, mounting six or seven guns, besides
Q 2
244 GULF OF LIAU-TUNG ; WEST COAST [CHAP. vn.
having a parapet for gingalls. The bar is nearly dry at low water. The
rise and fall is about 6 feet.
The anchorage off the river Pa is open from N.N.E. to S. W. The depth
of 4 fathoms cannot be carried nearer the river than 5 miles East of
the entrance, and 2 fathoms at a mile to the S.E.
The Pu river, running from the south-west, drains a flat of rather a
swampy nature, and, indeed, appears to originate in rather an extensive
marsh. Sand hills, 30 to 40 feet high, extend for several miles along
the beach to the southward of the river, and the ground is swampy behind
them.
At the extremity of these sand hills the formation of the coast changes.
A bar of sand lies about half a mile from the coast, and forms a protection
for junks, which enter at high tide through one of the breaks in it, and
unload at low water.
Where the breaks in the sand exist, a sort of river seems to form, in
which there may be 2 feet at low water ; this sometimes extends inland
for several miles, and occasionally joins the sea by a circuitous route some
miles distant ; the intermediate space of soft mud, covered with a thiu
layer of sand, dries at half tides.
HO. The anchorage off this river is open from N.N.E. to
S.S.W. The depth is 4^ fathoms at If miles to S.S.E. of the entrance,
and 2 fathoms at 1^ miles. At the entrance there is a narrow bar, with
3 feet over it at low water. Having passed the bar, 15 feet may be carried
close to the west point, and 12 to 13 feet up to a village or rather a series
of storehouses, about a mile up the river on the right bank, where many
of the junks discharge ; a breastwork affords protection to this spot.
Some junks ascend higher, and there is said to be a fort to protect the
upper anchorage.
Water. A strong stream of fresh water runs from the Lau-mu into the
sea, discolouring it to some distance. A vessel might anchor off the bar
and pump in fresh water during the ebb, for though of a muddy colour, it
rapidly settles, and is wholesome for drinking. The water in the river is
exceedingly good.
TIDES. At the entrance of the river Lau-mu it is high water, full and
change, at Ih. 30m. ; ordinary springs rise 5 feet.
HSX?7-SHAi-KATr, about 2 miles to the south-west of the Lau-mu,
is a bar creek, into which junks sometimes run for protection in bad
weather ; it trends to the westward, and eventually returns to the sea.
The adjoining country on either side of this creek is an extensive flat
swamp, more or less covered by the tide. To the south-west, large plains
CHAP, vii.] LAU-MU HO. - CHING HO. 245
of sand and hard mud exist for 6 or 8 miles inland, and present a desolate
appearance.
The mirage on this coast is very deceptive, giving an appearance of
water to the dry sand, and distorting the objects on shore considerably,
small huts sometimes appearing, when first seen, to be large forts.
HO. At 16 miles to the south-west of the Lau-mu is the
entrance to the Ching, which is a considerable river, but apparently
conveying a smaller flow of water from inland than the Lau-mu. The
anchorage of the river is exposed from N.E. to S.W. The depth is 4
fathoms at 2^ miles to the S.E., and 2 fathoms at one mile, to the east of
the entrance.
The passage to the river is through a break in the shoal, and across a
bar, on which there are only 2 feet at low water. Inside the bar there
is good anchorage for a large number of small vessels. The river has two
entrances : one from the eastward through a creek which dries at half-
tide ; the other from the westward, which is nearly as deep as the main
entrance. Mud flats, covered at high water, extend for some miles in all
directions. !No good lauding can be found before arriving near the village
of Ta-ching-ho, where large quantities of grain are landed and stored,
and which stands on the left bank at about 5 miles from the entrance.
Any vessel that can cross the bar will find sufficient water to enable her
to reach the village. Junks ascend the river in considerable numbers,
but apparently not farther than the village.
To the westward of the Ching ho is a mud flat, formed into an island
by- the main and western branches of that river, a few miles west of the
western entrance ; a sand pit, which is covered at high water springs,
joins the Sha-lui-tien banks.
. It is high water, full and change, at the Chiiig ho entrance at
lh. 20m., and springs rise about 6^ feet.
HAI-YE-TSE and CHXACTGr HO. Coasting round the east, south, and
west sides of the Sha-lui-tien banks the village of Hai-ye-tse is reached,
but it cannot be approached, even by boats, except at high tide, the shore
drying a mile out at low water.
To the northward of Hai-ye-tse is the village of Chiang-ho. There
is a small creek here, in which junks unload, and from which the village
derives its name.
Both these villages are very poor, the country desolate in the extreme,
barren and uncultivated ; a desert of dry mud, sand, and salt, with here
and there a stunted shrub. The inhabitants have little or no subsistence
but fish, and have to send 12 miles for drinking water. Small whirlwinds
246 GULF OF LIAU-TUNG ; WEST COAST. [CHAP. vn.
are frequent which raise the dust in clouds. Poor as both these villages
are, they both pretend to batteries for their defence, which, however, are
unarmed and insignificant. There are three other villages to the westward
of Chiang-ho, and to the south-west of them is the entrance of the river
Peh-tang.
The PEH-TANG. though a smaller river than the Pei ho, and
apparently navigable only for a short distance above its mouth, where
stands the town of Peh-tang, has a deeper, and perhaps more easy channel
of approach. The passage up the river is defended by two forts,* one on
either bank, and which resemble those at the mouth of the Pei ho, but
on a smaller scale.
The bar of the river has 5 feet over it at low .tide ; with the north fort
bearing N.W. W., 14 feet may be carried across it at high water ; the
passage up the river is then about N.W. Vessels are recommended to
cross the bar at high water, and wait for the banks to show themselves
before proceeding up ; the channel is from 1 to 1^ cables wide between
the banks.
The anchorage off the Peh-tang is open only from S.E. to South. The
depth is 4^ fathoms at 8 miles from the shore.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, at the bar of the Peh-tang
at 10h., and the rise and fall is about 9^ feet.
NORTH COAST OF YELLOW SEA.
From Liau-tie-shan head, the south extreme of the province of Liau-
tung, the northern coast of the Yellow Sea extends upwards of 1 80 miles
in an easterly direction, having many islands fronting it in some parts,
but it is as yet little known to Europeans. Off Liau-tie-shan head are
violent tide ripples, of alarming appearance to a stranger. After
trending first in a north-easterly, and then in an easterly direction, the
coast line takes a south direction, near the meridian of 125 E., forming
a great concavity between Liau-tung and the western coast of the
Korea.
In September 1840, H.M. ships Blonde and Py lades visited this
part of the coast,| and determined the position of several points on
their route. The south head of Liau-tie-shan, is a high, bold pro-
montory ; with the head bearing E.N.E. 15 miles, the Pylades anchored
* These forts, and those at the entrance of the Pei ho, were demolished during the
operations in 1860.
f The description of the northern coast of the Yellow Sea (with the exception of
Ta-lien-hwan bay, which is by Commander .1. Ward, H.M.S. Action, 1860), is by
George Norsworthy, Master of H. M.S. Pylades, 1840.
CHAP. TIL] NORTH COAST OF YELLOW SEA. 247
in 15 fathoms, mud, the ebb tide setting strong to the S.E. From this
to the head, the water deepened to 20, 25, and 30 fathoms, and when
the head bore N.W. by W. 6 miles, discoloured water was seen bearing
North, having the appearance of a long dangerous spit running out from
the land to the southward ; three boats were sent to examine it, but after
sounding every part, had nothing less than 30 fathoms off shore, from
3 to 5 miles the change in the colour of the water being occasioned, it is
supposed, by the muddy bottom or the meeting of the tides.
The coast from Liau-tie-shan head trends to the N.E. by E., and is
high and bold, with deep sandy bays, affording shelter for junks with the
prevailing northerly wind. The Pylades anchored in a small bight,
called in the chart, Seou-ping-tao, about a mile off shore, with the
head bearing W. by S. ^ S. about 16 miles. The bight is well
sheltered from north-westerly and easterly winds, but exposed to the
southward and south-westward. From the anchorage in 16 fathoms, the
west point of a rocky island, which forms the bay, bore E. by S. S.,
centre of the town N.E. by E. : the bottom is irregular, but the holding
ground good. Good water may be procured in small quantities, N.W. by N.
from the anchorage. Wood appeared to be scarce ; cattle were seen in
considerable numbers.
The CAP. E. by S. from the above bay is a small island, Avhich on
tfois bearing appears round, and much like the Cap in Sunda strait, but
in other directions it resembles a gunner's quoin ; it appeared steep-to,
and has a rock off it to the southward. The Pylades passed between the
Cap and the coast running along shore to the eastward, having no
bottom with 20 fathoms. Running from the Cap to the E.N.E., at the
distance of 6 miles, passed close to two other islands, one of which
resembled a ship under sail. These islands appeared steep-to ; no bottom
was obtained with 25 fathoms at half a mile from the shore.
ENCOUNTER BOCK, which was found by H.M.S. Encounter in May
1860, lies in lat. 38 33' 50" N., long. 121 37' E., a little west of the
direct course from Shan Tung promontory to Ta-lien-hwan bay.
It is about 70 yards in length east and west, has 24 and 26 fathoms
close to, and seen from the north or south appears like a patch of small
rocks, but is in reality only two. From the eastern or highest, which is
12 feet above high water, the Cap bears N. ^ W. ; the summit of San
Shan tau N.N.E. f E. ; a prominent peak N. by W. f W. ; Sampson peak
N. by E. i E. ; and Liau-tie-shan summit, N.W. by W. ^ W.
BAT is at the southern end of the peninsula
which forms the south part of the province of Liau-tung. It is
248 NORTH COAST OF YELLOW SEA. [CHAP. vn.
an extensive inlet, 10 miles deep north and south, and its principal
entrance, formed between West Entry point and the San-shau islands, is
5 miles wide. Between the two San-shan islands there is also a passage
1 mile wide, and another 2 miles wide between the inner San-shan and
the east point of the bay. Both of these channels, and the main
entrance, appear to be quite clear of danger ; but only one cast, of 7
fathoms mud, has been yet obtained in San-shaii-tau channel.
To a vessel making the laud in clear weather, Sampson peak, a noble
mountain, 2,213 feet high, would be visible, and when it is brought to
bear North, the main entrance to Ta-lien-hwan bay is open.
The flat country at the foot of the hills surrounding Ta-lien-liAvan,
appears to be good arable land w.ell cultivated. Large quantities of a
kind of dwarf Indian corn, millet, and kaou-liaug are grown on it, and
with sheep, exported to Shan Tung. Vegetables are scarce, and from the
latter grain above mentioned a spirit is distilled.
The hills afford grazing for sheep and cattle, and hay is preserved for
winter consumption. In exchange for their grain and sheep, the natives
bring cloth, tea, sugar, &c., from Shan Tung. About the end of February ,
a fleet of junks cross over to the Korean coast to catch salmon. Fish, in
general, appear to be scarce in the bay, but shell fish, oysters, and large
mussels, are very plentiful, and from the quantity of shells observed
around the dwellings of these people, appear to form a considerable portion
of their animal food.
SAN-SHACT TATT. These islands, which extend in a southerly direc-
tion from the eastern point of Ta-lien-hwan bay, are 500 feet high, and
may be approached to within a mile. They lie nearly North and South
of each other, and when seen east or west of the former bearing, appear
to consist of three, in consequence of the two high portions of the outer
island being connected by a low isthmus of small boulders and shingle,
about 10 feet above high water. This isthmus was chosen as the place
of the Observatory, and is in lat. 38 52' 54" JSI., long. 121 49' 14" E.
VICTORIA BAY (so named by Captain Bourchier, H.M.S. Blonde,
in 1840) is in the north-west angle of Ta-lien-hwan bay, bearing from
the outer San-shan island N.\Y. by W. It is formed by the coast line
trending N.W. by W. 1 W. 4 miles from West Entry point, then inclining
to the southward, and gradually curving round until its eastern point
bears from West Entry point N. by W. | W., distant 6 miles.
This bay affords good anchorage in from 5 to 3 fathoms, protected
from all winds, excepting those from E.N.E. to E.S.E. An easterly gale
would have a clear fetch of 10 miles, but it is not quite evident that one
has ever occurred in the spring and summer months. The inhabitants on
CHAP, vii.] TA-LIEN-HWAN BAY -- BLONDE ISLAND. 249
the north side of Victoria bay stated that these gales were prevalent,
and sent in a heavy sea, while on the other shore of the same bay it was
said that they were not known ; and the shores of the bay certainly show
no evidence of ever having been visited by one. The same people who
stated that easterly gales were so prevalent, also added that Victoria bay
was full of sunken rocks ; but none as yet have been discovered that are
not visible at low water.
The conclusion come to was, that in spring and summer the prevailing
winds are south-westerly, southerly, and south-easterly, occasionally
easterly, and if the wind from the latter quarter blows with any force
a heavy swell must necessarily set in. The Actceon anchored with
Sampson peak bearing N.E., Bay rock W. by S. f S., and the small
San-shan island E. by S.' f S.
HAND BAY, which is formed at the north extreme of Ta-lien-hwan
bay by a peninsula jutting out from the mainland, affords excellent
anchorage, quite land-locked for small vessels of 10 feet draught, and
within signal distance of vessels lying in Victoria bay. The middle
of its entrance bears N. by W. f W., distant 10 miles from the outer
San-shan island.
A reef, 9 cables long, and dry, or nearly so, at low water, extends to
the S.W. from the north side of this bay. Its south-west end bears
Xorth, distant one mile from the east point of the above peninsula.
BANGEROirs REEF. E.N.E. about 12 or 15 miles from the San-shan
islands at the entrance of Ta-lien-hwan bay, is a dangerous reef of rocks
lying a considerable distance from the coast, about a mile in extent north
and south, and nearly level with the water's edge. The Pylades passed
2 miles to the southward of them, having soundings of 35 fathoms. The
weather being squally and rainy, no observation could be obtained.
ISLAND, From the above reef the Pylades steered E. by S.
with a strong S.W. wind, for the south extreme of a group of islands,
and found good shelter, in 17 fathoms, mud, on the east side of Blonde
island, in lat. 39 2' N., long. 122 49' E. ; the anchorage is sheltered
from all but northerly winds. Stock of every description and vegetables
were abundant.
Four miles to the eastward of Blonde island are two islands, lyin
north and south of each other, having a deep water channel between
them. There is a remarkable rock bearing S.S.W. from the south poi.
of Blonde ; it is high, appears like a junk under sail, and can be
12 or 15 miles off. The Pylades passed inside this rock, and
bottom with 30 fathoms.
250 NORTH COAST OF YELLOW SEA. [CHAP. vii.
From the anchorage off Blonde island the Pylades steered N.N.E.
and at noon in lat. 39 16' N., long. 122 54' E., and in 22 fathoms water,
the eastern point of a group of islands bore N. \ W. 3 or 4 miles. Pro-
ceeded to the northward, and entered an inlet formed by the above group
and other islands to the eastward, the high coast of the Korea distant 12
miles ; shoaling the water from 15 to 9 fathoms, hauled to the eastward
and anchored under the last-mentioned islands. The southernmost islands
of the group are barren, with sharp pointed rocks like the Needles.
Observed something like a fort or town on the main, at the distance of 15
miles, the line of coast trending to the N.E. The flood tide here set
strong to the northward, 3-^ knots an hour, and the ebb faintly to the east-
ward. High water, at full and change, at about 8h. 30m.
In lat. 39 12' N., long. 122 56' E., some patches of sand were found,
with depths of 15 and 17 fathoms on them, and on which the Pylades
anchored for the night : the main land at this time 18 to 21 miles distant.
At noon the next day, in lat. 39 2' N., long. 124 39' E., lost sight of the
main land at 21 or 24 miles distance, the ship in 24 fathoms. There was
at this time a patch of low islands in sight, bearing N. by W. 10 miles,
and a number of high islands, the eastern extreme of which bore S.E. by E.
16 or 18 miles. After steering S.S.E. from noon, at the rate of 7 knots,
at 12h. 50m. the water suddenly shoaled from 15 to 7 fathoms, rocky
bottom ; hauled off immediately W.S.W., and soon deepened again to 22
fathoms ; altered course again as before, and in a short time again shoaled
to 17, 10, 7, 6, and 4 fathoms, when the ship was hauled off. From the
broken water and the number of birds, it was supposed that there must
be much less than 4 fathoms on this shoal ; it appeared to extend in a
N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, in lat. 38 56' N., long. 124 37' E.
WEST AND SOUTH COASTS OF KOREA.
CHODO ISLAND. The Virginie* which had several times been
hindered, in lat. 36 55', and 37 30', and 38 7' N., from nearing the
shores of the Korea by banks which gave warning of a decreasing depth
of from 44 to 14 fathoms, made a last attempt on 3 1st August 1856,
in lat. 38 27' N., long. 124 27' E., a little distance westward of
Chodo island.
This island, the south point of which is in lat. 38 27' N., long. 124
344' E., lies in a bight of the coast, on the southern part of which are two
* The description of the -west coast of Korea, north of the Conference group, and of the
south coast between Mackau and Aberdeen islands, is partly from Admiral Guerin's
report of the voyage of the French frigate Virginie in 1855-56.
CHAP, vii.] WEST COAST OF KOREA. 251
villages and a harbour for junks. Its eastern end is about 7 miles from
the coast, but it is connected to it by a bank Avhich partly uncovers, and
appears to extend to the north. About a mile to the southward of the
west point of the island, near which is a little islet, is the beginning of
an extensive flat, which projects 2 miles to the southwai'd from a point
where there is a village, with a depth of more than 8 fathoms in the
channel which separates them.
In the channel formed by the north point of the bank, and the little
islet, the soundings are 14 to 16 fathoms, 5 fathoms near the islet, and
8 and 9 fathoms at a short distance south of Chodo island. This channel
leads to the eastward into a bay of the coast, which is encumbered by a
flat carrying about 3 fathoms water ; but anchorage may be found in the
channel in 8 and 10 fathoms quite sheltered by Chodo to the north-east,
and by the bank to the west. The shore around this bight is studded
with villages and well cultivated.
TIDES. On the 3rd and 4th September 1856 (three and four days
after the change of moon), it was high water in the bay on the south
side of Chodo at 8h. 40m., and the tide rose 10 feet ; the approximate
establishment may be assumed at 6h. 20m., and the rise 11 to 12 feet on
springs.
JOACHIM BAT. In steering for this bay, the Virginie passed 3
miles north of Tas-de-Foin or Haycock islet, off the entrance of Shoal
gulf, and had 11 fathoms in the middle of the central islands of the
archipelago. These are not, as those to the southward, isolated rocks or
islets of no importance, but they have much high land susceptible of
cultivation, and a large population of fishermen. Between the Clifford
islands and the coast the depth was 33 fathoms. The frigate anchored
in 9 fathoms off the entrance of Joachim bay, about a mile from the west
point.
Joachim bay, in lat. 36 53^' N., long. 126 17|' E., is a large bight
which extends to the south-east, and looks from a distance as if it
afforded excellent anchorage ; but part of its entrance is barred by two
reefs, the summits of which are never covered. Having passed eastward
of these reefs, through a channel carrying 16 feet at low water, a sheltered
anchorage was found in 7 to 9 fathoms soft mud, abreast a village
containing about 4,000 inhabitants.
From hence the remainder of the bight is nothing but a large lagoon,
forming to the south-east and east two bays 4 or o miles deep, having
not more than 3 feet in them at low water. Having found that no im-
portant river flowed out here, the frigate continued her voyage to the
northward.
252 WEST COAST OF KOREA. [CHAP. vn.
The COAST from Joachim harbour trends to the north-east, where it
forms a large bight or gulf, in which are numerous islands. Caroline and
Deception bays are on the south coast of this gulf. The head of the bight
was named the gulf of Prince Jerome.
CHASSERXAU BANK. The south point of this bank was found by
the Virginie to be in lat. 36 59' 20" N., long. 126 18' E. ; from thence
the bank followed the trend of the coast as far as lat. 37 6^' N.,
long. 126 31^' E. It is about three-quarters to a quarter of a mile wide,
and the soundings over it are irregular on all parts. There are only 6 to
9 feet on its two extremes, but both its sides appeared steep-to, as the
depth was 12 to 15 fathoms near its western, and 11 to 12 fathoms near its
eastern edge. It shelters both Caroline bay and Deception bay, and
forms with 'the coast a long channel about 2 miles wide, in which the
depth is more than 12 fathoms, and the anchorage secure in every part.
BAY, the west point of entrance to which is in lat.
37 1-^' N., long. 126 25' E., has a safe outer roadstead, carrying about
9 fathoms water, between Alfred peninsula and the Cormorandiere rock,
lying off the west point of the bay. There are numerous villages on the
coast. No river flows into the bay. The tide rises about 26 feet.
> The entrance to this bay, little more than a mile wide, is much con-
tracted by a tongue of sand which uncovers, and beginning at the eastern
point of the bay extends three-quarters of a mile to the westward athwart
the channel ; but between the western extreme and the opposite shore
there is a channel, carrying 11 fathoms, which leads to a large lagoon,
resembling that in Shoal gulf and Joachim harbour.
DECEPTION 1 BAY, where the Virginie anchored after some difficult
navigation between the land and the Chasseriau bank, is (the entrance) in
lat. 37 3' N., long. 126 33' E. It owes its name to the deceitful indica-
tions of a river which seems to open into the deep and narrow channel
which terminates it to the south, and in which the depth is about 5^
fathoms.
There is excellent sheltered anchorage off the entrance of this channel,
but the outer passages to it present great difficulty of approach from being
in the midst of islands and surrounded by banks ; the greatest obstacle
is the strength of the current, which in the inner channel runs not less
than 5 knots. The last of the summits of the Table chain overlook the
shores of Deception bay and those of Prince Jerome gulf, before which
the frigate anchored in 15 fathoms, in lat. 37 11' N., long. 126 35' E.,
after passing between Fernande island to the south, and Adolphe island
to the north, carrying 21 fathoms.
CHAP, vii.] CAROLINE AND DECEPTION BAYS. 253
PRINCE IMPERIAL ARCHIPELAGO To the northward of the
above anchorage are the numberless isles of the Prince Imperial archi-
pelago, and to the south-east the shores of Prince Jerome gulf. In this
last direction, to within 1^ miles of the coast, is a channel of 11 fathoms,
breaking off suddenly into irregular depths.
To the S.E. by S. was an indentation of the land about 10 miles deep,
with an average width of one mile. At that distance the shores approach
each other, and there were all the signs of a considerable river ; many
populous villages, a well cultivated soil, junks at anchor in all the creeks
in which are the villages, and in the mouth of one four junks of 130 to
150 tons (the largest seen) were waiting for the turn of tide to go up into
the interior ; lastly, two chains of mountains, one to the north, the steep
cliffs of which seem to form the right bank, the other the table mountain
to the south, separated by a large plain, point out the direction and length
of the basin of these watercourses. Unluckily time failed the officer of
this exploration ; he was 20 miles from the frigate, with an adverse tide,
and he only arrived on board at 10 p.m. The false indications of the
maps leading Admiral Guerin to believe in the existence of larger rivers,
that he still had to explore, determined him to rest contented with the
information collected during this day.
The direction of this river passing only a few miles from Great
Mandarin point in Shoal gulf, seems to be (judging from the trend of
the northern heights), first S.E., then East in going upwards. A Korean
sailor, on being questioned, indicated the direction of Seoul as E.N.E.
The presence of the mandarins who followed the Virginie from her
anchorage to Caroline bay, their sudden arrival from the capital, whence
they declared they came, and in the district of which they said the frigate
was, the crowd gathered in a few hours at Great Mandarin point, all give
weight to the opinion that this river reaches very near Seoul.
The current in the gulf has the same strength as in Caroline and
Deception bays, or from 4 to 5 knots an hour. The tide rises from
22^ f ee t to 26 feet at springs.
On the 26th of August, in the morning, the Virginie made sail. The
breeze being variable from S.S.W., forced her to tack in order to weather
the easternmost islets of the archipelago. Soundings very regular. At
noon, doubled Chapeau or Hat rock in about lat. 37 15' N., and sought a
passage to the north-west between the Adolphe and Marolles islets, when
about 3h. 30m. p.m. the lead showed successively in a few minutes 27,
16, and 8 fathoms. Notwithstanding every precaution being taken, the
frigate touched a minute after the last sounding in 14 feet, sandy bottom,
on a shoal of which there was no indication.
This bank lies N.N.W. W. from the summit of Fernande islet, and
254 WEST COAST OF KOREA. [CHAP. vn.
N. ^ W. from the summit of Alfred islet. The next day was passed in
surveying the bank and in repairing damages. M. Montaru places Fer-
nande islet in 37 9' N., and 126 30' E. j Adolphe islet, S.E. point, in
37 12' 10" N., 126 24' E., and the shoal the vessel grounded on in
37 13' N., 126 27' E. of Greenwich.
CHWAWG-SHANT or DANIELS ISLAND. On the 17 th July 1832,
the ship Amherst * made the land a little to the northward of Sir James
Hall group. She stood towards a high bluff point of a large island,
distinguished by a large detached mass of rock close to the point ; on
rounding this an extensive bay opened out, exposed to the north. The
summits of this, as well as the other islands to the southward, were
clothed with luxuriant vegetation and high trees ; the lower part near
the sea was cleared and cultivated, and numerous cattle and several
villages were seen.
This island was called Chwang-shan by the natives. In Horsburgh,
Vol. 2, 7th Edition, page 505, it is named Daniels island, and it there
states that the Amherst anchored on its west side in lat. 38 17' N., long.
124 56' E., and that the island is 12 miles north of the northernmost
islands of Sir James Hall group.
SIR JAMBS HALT, CROUP, consisting of three islands, was dis-
covered by H.M. ships Alceste and Lyra, 1st September 1816. The
west end of the northern island was ascertained by Captain Basil Hall to
be in long. 120 44^' E., and the south end of the southern island to be in
lat. 37 44^' N. There is a white rocky islet off the west end of the
middle island. The vessels had 20 to 30 fathoms in rounding the south-
west end of the southern island, and anchored in 7 fathoms, black sand,
in the middle of a bay on its south side.
This bay affords good anchorage, sheltered from all winds, except
between W.S.W., round south, and S.E. There are two villages here ;
the inhabitants were suspicious and unfriendly. From the top of the
highest peak on this island, about 750 feet high, the mainland of the
Korea could be seen, high and rugged, stretching N.N.W. and S.S.W.
distant about 8 or 10 leagues. Along the coast abreast were seen many
islands. The channel between the middle island of the group and the
southern island appeared clear and broad ; but the northern and middle
islands seemed connected by a reef above water at several places.
axARTORXBAXTKS HARBOUR, and SHOAi. GULF. The Amherst left
her anchorage under Chwang-shan island 20th July, and steered to the
* From the voyage of the ship Amherst to the northern ports of China, 2nd Edition,
page 215; also Gutzlaffs third voyage in 1832.
CHAP, vii.] MARJORIBANKS HARBOUR AND SHOAL GULF. 255
southward. The next day, after passing numerous islands, she anchored
under the Loktaou islands, about 2 miles from a large village built on the
brow of a steep hill, westward of Table mountain. On the 25th, with
the assistance of a native pilot, the ship was moved 10 miles farther east-
ward. From the Loktaou she steered N.E. 7 miles for another group,
and then N.E. towards a deep bay (named Marjoribauks harbour*) or
rather passage, among numerous islands, where she found sheltered and
convenient anchorage near a large village.
On the 7th August a party proceeded to the northward in the Anthers? s
long-boat to explore a deep and wide bay or gulf, which was named Shoal
Gulff, the wind fresh from S.W. and a strong flood tide. They coasted
along the western side of the gulf, which was studded with numerous
beautiful verdant islets, mostly cultivated and inhabited, and thickly
wooded with fine fir timber, many of the trees of which are fit for spars,
and the wood of the best quality, close grained, and full of turpentine.
In advancing up the gulf it became much wider, at the entrance 5 miles,
and 10 miles up nearly double that breadth ; the soundings were variable,
but 8 to 12 fathoms were carried in the fair channel.
The boat still proceeded along the western shore of the gulf, the object
being to ascertain whether the land forming it was an island or not. The
island to the eastward was 2 miles in length, fertile, and with several
large villages on it. Having proceeded about 6 miles farther, and the
head of the gulf appearing at a great distance, they abandoned reaching
its extremity, and landed on the promontory in the centre of what was
found to be an island, and named Lindsay island. J
On ascending a high hill, the open sea was seen to the westward, and
Lindsay island was observed to be separated from the mainland by a narrow
passage. The head of the gulf was divided into two parts, the western
of which extended about 7 or 8 miles to the northward, but the termination
of the eastern one, which trends to the N.N.E., could not be seen ; all the
boats with mandarins came from the latter direction. In returning to the
ship, the boat anchored for the night abreast a cluster of islands in the
centre of the gulf, about 10 miles from the entrance.
Marjoribanks harbour and Shoal gulf were also visited by the French
* After Mr. Marjoribanks, late President of the Select Committee of Supercargoes at
Canton.
f There is a discrepancy between the chart of the Amherst's voyage by Capt. Rees
her commander, and the account of her voyage given by Mr. Gutzlaff and Mr. Lindsay.
Marjoribanks harbour of the chart is called Gankeang in Gutzlaffs Voyages, page 330 ;
and Shoal Gulf of the chart is named Marjoribanks harbour in Lindsay's Report, 2nd
Edition, p. 240.
After Mr. Lindsay, the II. E. I. Company's supercargo in the Amherst.
256 WEST COAST OF KOREA. [CHAP. m.
frigate Virginie in 18.56. The harbour is described as lying 1^ miles
south of Lindsay island, fronting the mouth of the channel leading into
Shoal gulf, and is formed by three islands of moderate size ; one to the
north-west, one to the east, and one to the south, and by a small islet
surrounded by reefs to the west. The depth is 8 to 12 fathoms at low
water, in the middle of the harbour, abreast the south point of Ko-tian,
or the east island ; but north of this, and in line with Mauzac islet, lying
off the south point of Chang-kon-yam, or the north-west island, the Avater
shoals rapidly to 20 and 12 feet, near some rocks awash, which seem to
encumber the north side of the harbour. To the southward the depth
decreases less rapidly ; there are 12^, 6, and 5 fathoms as far as the line
which joins the northern point of the south island to the rock above
water, which lies one mile to the W.N.W. of this point. Mauzac islet is
in lat. 36 26f N., long. 126 28' E.
There is a valley in a bay with a sand beach on the middle of the west
coast of Chang-kon-yam, and another village on the north-west coast of
Ko-tian. At a mile eastward of this latter island is a large island named
Roussin, on which there arc three villages ; it occupies nearly all the
entrance of Shoal gulf. The channel which it forms with the south end
of Lindsay island is 2 miles long and 1^ miles wide, but it is difficult to
navigate, being encumbered with islets and rocks.
The approaches to Marjoribanks harbour are well pointed out by the
Table mountain, 3,280 feet high, which rises E. by N. ^ N. from the
anchorage, but they are studded with islets and rocks, amongst which it is
difficult to navigate.
In running for the harbour, the Virginie had 27 fathoms water at 2^
miles south of Guerin island, 951 feet high, and in lat. 36 7' N., long.
126 1' E. ; from thence she steered to pass 4 miles east of Wai-ian-do
island, elevated 1,050 feet, the soundings being 14 and 16 fathoms. After
sailing 7 miles eastward of this position she steered to the northward,
passing some distance east of Camille, Pellion, and Charner islands,
a n soundings of 8 and 10 fathoms, until abreast of Tas-de-Foin islet, in
lat. 36 24^' u., long. 126 24' E., and from thence to Marjoribanks
harbour.
Shoal gulf is described as extending 30 miles in a northerly direction
from its entrance. Although its name implies that it is shallow, yet there
is an average depth of about 1 1 fathoms to 25 miles north of Roussin
island, which forms the western part of its mouth. All the western part
of the gulf, as far as the Mathilde group, in lat. 36 44' N., was sounded
over by the boats of the Virginie, the depth varying from 6 to 10 fathoms.
In the bay North of the group, the soundings were 4 and 5 fathoms, and
in the bay E.N.E. of the group 22 to 26 feet near the shore.
CHAP vii.] MARJORIBANK3 HARBOUR AND SHOAL GULF. 257
The water in the gulf rises about 26 feet. The tides produce strong
eddies, which, although they favour the junks, would no doubt be an
obstacle in its navigation by a sailing vessel of large draught, particularly
with the variable winds of these latitudes. The coasting trade is con-
siderable, and its importance to the Koreans is pointed out by the beacons,
which are kept up with great care on all the points, and on the shoals
which cover at high water.
The general aspect of the shores of the gulf is uniform. Lindsay
island is a long range of wooded summits united by chains of rocks,
covered at high water. In all the creeks are hamlets and villages,
the principal of which are on Roussin island and at Port Lourmel. The
eastern coast of the gulf, on the contrary, is an uninterrupted series of
bare hills, with abrupt declivities, throwing out into the sea their granite
bases. Behind these hills are the high mountains of the Table chain,
which run in a N.W. and S.E. direction. There are only two or three
villages on this coast, but there appeared to be a large population in the
interior.
Three channels lead into the gulf. The two to the westward of Roussin
island are only practicable for junks. The third must be sought for to
the southward of the Marjoribanks islands, and which, bounding them to
the east, carries 6^ to 22 fathoms water, as far as the south-east point
of Roussin, where a circular bay, formed by this point and Bouet island,
offers good anchorage. All the southern part of the gulf between the
Parseval group, Roussin island, and the mainland, aifords fair anchorage
near the shore, especially to the south of Penaud island, where the
currents run with less strength than in the gulf. The Parseval are 3 miles
north, and Penaud 1^- miles north-east of the east end of Roussin.
In proceeding up the gulf the soundings were 9 to 16 fathoms, sand and
shells, as far as the Denudees islands, which lie 10 miles within the entrance.
At a mile to the southward of the centre island of this group, in 8 fathoms,
sand, a convenient shelter may be found abreast a creek, where the junks
await the change of tide. At 1^ miles to the N.N.W. of the Denudees
there is a flat 4 cables in extent, and carrying 26 feet water, which must
be left to the westward, and the channel taken between it and Lindsay
island.
The Mathilde group will now be seen at 6 miles to the X. by E. They
divide the head of the gulf into two deep bays, one trending in a north,
the other in a north-east direction. At half a mile south of the most
southerly island of this group there is a small islet distinguished by a
large white pagoda covered with tiles standing in the midst of trees. At
3 miles S.W. by W. of this islet, and at the same distance from the nearest
point of Lindsay island, there is another flat, of less extent than the
[C.] B
258 WEST COAST OF KOREA. [CHAP. vn.
former, but carrying the same depth, 26 feet ; in proceeding north this
also must be left to the eastward, so as to keep in the channel.
From thence, steering towards the north part of Lindsay island, a bight,
named Port Lourmel, about 1^ miles deep, will be seen to the W. by N., and
a large village on the declivity of a steep hill. This is one of the most com-
mercial points of the gulf. A channel, carrying 6^ to 9 fathoms, leads
to it and forms a sheltered roadstead, the only inconvenience being the
currents, which set strongly from a lagoon leading to the westward.
This lagoon is only navigable at high tides to the junks, which penetrate
some distance into the interior.
Port Lourmel is the limit of the deep soundings, for as soon as the
small islet to the north is passed, the depths are irregular, the channel
becomes contracted, and not more than 26 feet will be carried for 6 or 7
miles. Here one of the most remarkable mountains of the coast is to be
seen ; remarkable, inasmuch as it may be recognized in all directions, and
that it rises from the centre of three large bays. Its peak is conical, and
has three little paps on its summit.
To the eastward of Port Lourmel is the entrance of the north-east bay
of the gulf, which is open to the south-west. Its high shores seemed to
announce deep soundings ; not more, however, than 32 feet were found,
and at low water a bank, more than 1^ miles in extent, was left dry
surrounding Great Mandarin point.
TIDES. At Marjoribanks harbour, it is high water, full and change,
at 3h. 30m., and springs rise 29 feet. In Shoal gulf the rise is 26 feet.
BASIL or CHU-YING BAT, discovered by the Alceste and Lyra,
4th September 1816, is formed on the east side .of a curved tongue of
land, on which is a peaked hill. The south end of this tongue, by
Capt. Basil Hall, is in lat. 36 7' 38" N., long. 126 42^' E. The bay is
about 4 miles wide, but it is open to the south, and has not depth enough
to allow vessels of moderate draught to enter, there being only 1\ to
3 fathoms inside the points. The Alceste and Lyra anchored outside
in 5 fathoms.
To the south-west of the western point of entrance, and at the distance
of 5 miles, is a peaked islet named Helens island, 930 feet above the sea,
which forms a good mark to lead to the bay. The bay is skirted by large
villages, ornamented with trees, and surrounded by cultivation, both on
the main land and on many of the neighbouring islands, which form <i
part of the Korean archipelago.
TIDES Iii Basil bay, September 4th, 1816, the rise of tide, 2 days
before full moon, was 15^ feet ; low water at 8h. p.m., and high water at
CHAP, vii.] BASIL BAY. KOREAN ARCHIPELAGO. 259
2h. 30m. a.m., showing an approximate establishment of 4h. 15m., and a
rise of 17 to 18 feet on springs.
KOREAN ARCHIPELAGO From Basil bay the Alceste and Lyra
proceeded to the southward among the Korean archipelago, carrying
soundings of 7 to 1 7 fathoms, and usually anchored during the night. On
8th September they came to in 11 fathoms, soft bottom, in Murray sound,
about 2 cables from the east side of Thistle island, in lat. 34 22' 39" N.,
long. 126 3' E. The islands here are so situated as to form a capacious
and secure anchorage, with passages among them in all directions.
The tides run at the rate of 3^ knots at the springs ; the flood to the
north-east ; the rise and fall is 15 feet. From the summit of a high peak,
elevated 800 feet, of an island to the south-east, upwards of two hundred
islands were counted, many large and high, and almost all cultivated.
The KO-KTTN-TO GROUP are the only islands tolerably known in
the interior of this archipelago. They are high, mountainous, and 9 miles
in extent, east and wect, and about the same north and south, if Peak
islet be included. They are separated by narrow channels, and form a
mass of bare peaks and arid cliffs. The sea breaks with violence on the
rocky points during S.W. gales, and the flood stream runs violently
into the passage between the islets. In the interior the parts are less
abrupt and covered with trees ; there are some sandy beaches between
the rocky ground, and at the foot of the hills many houses surrounded by
cultivated fields.
Camp islet, the easternmost and largest of the group, is 2 miles long,
east and west, and one mile wide. Its eastern point, in lat. 35 48' 8" N.,
long. 126 31' E., is high, and covered with stunted trees; it falls
towards the west, where it terminates in broken rocks, and is low ; it is
not inhabited. On a shingle beach, between two points of rock forming
a small bay, the crews of the French ships Gloire and Victorieuse disem-
barked on the llth of August 1847. The anchorage on its south side
is safe during the North-east monsoon, sheltered as it is by the lofty
mountains of the mainland ; but in a S.W. gale, the swell must be heavy,
and the anchors would perhaps drag on account of the slope of the bottom
from south to north.
The resources of these islands are trifling. The inhabitants are poor ;
they live on the product of their fishing, and some little barley and rice
that they gather in ; and they are very mistrustful of strangers. Ships
can water at about 2 miles from the anchorage. The water there is good
and abundant.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, at Camp islet at 2h. 25m. ;
the tide rises 20 feet at equinoctial springs, and 10 feet at neaps. The
R 2
260 WEST COAST OF KOREA. [CIIAI-.VII.
tide streams follow the direction of the channel, and average perhaps
3 knots an hour.
DIRECTIONS When bound towards the Ko-kun-to group from the
westward, it will be necessary first to sight He de la Selle or Saddle
island. It has a peak at either end, which, seen from the offing, nearly
join and give it the appearance of the hollow of a saddle. It may al?o
be known by an islet lying 1-| miles from its north side. The west peak
of Saddle island is in lat. 35 36' 50" N., long. 126 6' E. In passing
the north or south side of the island, the two peaks separate, leaving
between them a hollow, which has the appearance of a Tui'kish saddle.
About 10 miles farther east are two isles lying close to each other.
When 5 miles north of Saddle island and steering East, Peak islet will be
seen ahead, and to the north the islands of the Ko-kun-to group will rise
one after the other. The flood tide, which runs strongly to the northward,
must be allowed for. The soundings will vary from 10 to 3 fathoms.
At 4 miles north of Peak islet is a point remarkable for a hole
pierced in the rock a few feet above water, and which, when approach-
ing it from the westward, will be easily perceived. When between Roche
Percee and Peak islet steer N.E. by E., or for the east point of Camp
islet, and anchor in 9 fathoms, over a bottom of soft mud, at one mile off
shore the middle of Peak islet bearing S. by W. ^ W., and the eastern end
of Camp islet N.E. If working in, which can only be done with the
tide, care must be taken in approaching the east bank off the mainland,
for the bottom varies suddenly from 6 to 3 fathoms.
The west coast of Korea is subject to periodical winds
from the N.E. and S.W. From August to the end of September, the
monsoon changes ; this is the period of rains, variable winds, and some-
times storms.
ISLAND seems to form the* north-west extremity of the
southern group of the archipelago ; it is 3 miles long, N.N.E. and S.S.W.,
and consists of two peaks, of which the northern is the higher, reaching
to 1,214 feet. Its summit is in lat. 34 42^' N., long. 125 16' E.
XSX.ANI>, 8 miles eastward of Modeste, is 6 miles long,
north and south. Its height is 1,443 feet, and its centre is in lat.
34 40' 5" N., long. 125 28' E. Between Modeste and Mackau islea,
the soundings were 52 fathoms.
AI.CESTE isiiAWD, in 34 6' N., 125 11' E., seems to form the
south-west limit of the archipelago. It is 1,935 feet high, about 3 miles
long, north and south, and a village stands on the slope of the high ground;
CHAP, vii.] SOUTH COAST OF KOREA. 26 1
some rocky islets lie near its north-west end. The soundings Avere 48
fathoms, broken shells, at 5 miles to the north.
SOUTH COAST of KOREA This coast and the islands lying off it
are but little known. Lyra island, the southernmost of the Korean archi-
pelago and of the group forming Murray sound, is supposed to be in lat.
34 8' X., long. 126 7' E. The French frigate Virginie in 18o6 vainly
tried to penetrate into the eastern part of the archipelago. On the
2nd of August she sailed from the Port Hamilton group, and sought a
passage to the X.W. towards the continent. Strong and opposite currents
retarded rather than aided her progress, the winds were also variable and
light. In 34 11' X., and 126 27i' E., it was hoped that a passage was
found across a gulf that seemed to belong to the mainland. The bottom
was regular, the depth more than 16 fathoms, and the frigate had nearly
reached the end when she was brought up in lat. 34 32' X., long. 126 E.,
by a bank stretching ahead from X.W. to the land. The boats could find
no passage, and the vessel was obliged to return ; on the Gth August her
position was lat. 34 10' X., long. 126 E., and she sighted Mackau island
and the Hydrographers group.
H.M.S. Nimrod, on the 28th April 1860, passed about 2{ f miles to the
eastward of Modeste island, and from thence steered S.E., passing various
clusters of islands. Having run 44 miles on this course, a thick fog came
on and she endeavoured to find anchorage under a cluster of islands (about
5CO feet high), but was unable to obtain less than 19 fathoms water,
coarse sand and shells, close to the shore and in an exposed position. She
therefore steei'ed for another group, distant about 8 miles to the X.E., and
anchored in a bay formed by the junction of two islands (probably between
Montreal island and the island westward of it), open to the S.W., with a
channel apparently safe but narrow, to the X.E.
The Nimrod here rode out a gale from the E.S.E.', Avhich lasted nearly
two days, in 14 fathoms, over a bottom of sand and shells, with rocky
patches. There are several villages in the bay, and the inhabitants were
civil and obliging. On the west side of the bay are two smaller bays,
where tolerable shelter for small vessels may be found in o fathoms, muddy
bottom. Good water was obtained, and fish by hauling the seine. At
about 7 miles to the S. by W. of the anchorage there is a remarkable high
and craggy island, about 500 feet high (most probably Lyra island),
something like a cock's comb ; no other island in this locality bears any
resemblance to it.
This anchorage cannot be recommended as secure, but may be preferred
to the risk of navigating among these islands at night or in thick weather.
The flood tide sets to the X.E., the ebb to the S.W. High water, at full
and change, at about 8h. 30m.
262 SOUTH COAST OF KOREA. [CHAP.VII.
From the above anchorage the JXimrod steered E.S.E. 24 miles, and
then E. ^ S. for Port Hamilton, passing about 4 miles north of a
group of islands, on the east side of the largest island of which the ship
Remi was lost during a fog on the 25th April 1860, in lat. 33 55^' N.,
long. 126 22' E., on her passage from Hakodadi to the Gulf of Pe-chili.
QUi.pAitT ISLAND, extending about 40 miles in an E.N.E. and
W.S.W. direction, and 17 miles wide, is of considerable height, and
detached from the Korean archipelago and smaller islands which face the
south-west coast of Korea.
The general outline of Quelpart * is that of an oval, with few deep
indentations to affect its regularity. Its general appearance, as viewed
from the sea, is inviting, there being a pleasing variety of hill and dale,
and on the northern and eastern sides much cleared land, cultivation
rising probably to the level of 2,000 feet. Above this all appears to be
buried in thick forests of pines and other northern trees, even to the
highest peak of the island, Mount Auckland, which is 6,544 feet above
the level of the sea. Towards the northern and eastern parts some of
the cones, 500 to 800 feet high, are so smooth and circular, that, with
their little batteries or watch towers on the summit, appear almost to be
the work of art. This probably i-esults from their method of cultivating
the sides, as all the furrows appear to be made horizontally, which in
process of time, by the constant falling down of the ridges, would effect
such a regular outline.
The space on which the city stands is a broad valley, situated about
the centre of the northern coast of Quelpart, having a conspicuous flat
eminence on its eastern side, and a small river or copious stream on the
western ; the country immediately surrounding it on all sides being
barren. The city wall, on the sea face, occupies a line of about 500 yards,
containing seven bastions, apparently with embrasures throughout, but no
guns were noticed.
The eastern extreme of Quelpart is a peninsular promontory, named
Cape Dundas, 2 miles north of which is Bullock island. Between this
island and the city on the north coast, the depths in-shore vary from 6 to
27 fathoms. There appears a second city nearly opposite the former, on
the south shore of the island, with a small bay on its west side, fronted
by two small islands, named Hooper and Burnet, the latter being
outside the former. West of Burnet is Richardson inland, and east of it
the islands of Mahon and Barrow, the latter surrounded by a reef. These
four islands occupy a space of about 8 miles in an east and west direction
* The description of this island is by Captain Sir E. Belcher, H.M.S. Samarang, who
surveyed it in 1845.
CHAP, vii.] QUELPART ISLAND. 263
parallel with the coast, and not more than one or two miles distant from
it. Towards the west end of Quelpart, on its south shore, is a projecting
promontory named Loney bluff, on the east side of which is a deep bay,
with an island in it, Marryat island, surrounded by a reef, lying about 2
miles N.E. of the bluff. South of the bluff are Barlow and Giffard islands,
at the respective distances of 1 and 4 miles from it ; they are both low
and flat, and the former is surrounded by a reef. The Samarang rock
lies W. b. N. about 2 miles from Barlow, and S.W. about the same dis-
tance from Loney bluff.
Supplies. The productions of Quelpart do not appear to be at all equal
to the wants of the population- and are in very small variety. Rice, wheat,
barley, sweet potato, large Russian radish, maize, and small garden pro-
duce, comprise all that was noticed, either in the grounds, under cultivation,
or among the people. This does not appear the result of any deficiency
in land fit for cultivation, but rather in the poor nature of the soil.
Water appears to abound on the southern side of Quelpart, but only on
Hooper island could it be procured easily. It can be easily obtained on
Barlow island, but there is not safe and convenient anchorage near it.
Wood was purchased from the authorities, but in such small portions
that it did not repay the trouble of sending for it ; it is, however, abun-
dant on the mountains, and on two of the off-lying islets it can be
obtained by slight labour.
The manners of the population, excluding the superior class, are filthy
in person and habit.. Their fishing vessels are few, and of the most
miserable construction. It is highly probable that Quelpart occupies the
position of one of the penal settlements of Korea, and viewing it in this
light, accounts for the gross manners complained of, and it will readily
account for the variety in the races of beings which were found assembled,
and for the low state of cultivation.
ANCHORAGE. Quelpart, throughout its extent, has but one safe an-
chorage, and that is off the southern bay of Bullock island, which here
forms a channel with Quelpart, about 2 miles wide, and through which
the current sets strong to the southward. The second temporary road-
stead is off the city on the northern shore of the island, but a vessel would
be compelled to seek an offing at the first symptom of a N.W. breeze.
The third anchorage, at the western extreme of Quelpart, within Eden
island, affords shelter from North, round east, to N.W., and offers an
escape to leeward if requisite. A fourth temporary but dangerous an-
chorage is off Hooper island, near the city on the southern shore ; but this
is open from West to S.E., and is too confined to admit of beating out,
should wind and sea come in suddenly.
264 SOUTH COAST OF KOREA. [CHAP. vn.
PORT HAMii/rajr. The Port Hamilton group, lying about
N.N.E. ^ E., 38 miles from the north-east end of Quelpart, consist of three
islands, two large and one small, deeply indented, which form a well shel-
tered harbour within, named Port Hamilton, the entrance to which is at
the south-east part of the group. These islands may be readily dis-
tinguished from the numerous clumps of islets and rocks in the
neighbourhood, by their greater size as well as their peculiar position.*
Supplies. Within Observatory island a vessel may be safely hove
down for repair. Wood is scarce fresh water is plentiful and good, and
easily embarked. Fish may be caught with the seine. Although the
natives were friendly, H.M.S. Saracen in 1856 could not obtain fresh
stock of, any description ; the crew roamed over the island as they
pleased, but the inhabitants would not allow them to enter their houses.
DIRECTION'S. The Port Hamilton group, so far as their examination
went, is clear of danger on all sides, but is best approached from the
south-east. On entering the port, the only danger that does not show
is the Saracen rock, with 7 feet on it, lying at the entrance, 2 cables
from the east end of Observatory island. It is a small pinnacle, steep-to
on the outside, but may be easily avoided by opening the Gap tree, on
Aberdeen island, a little northward of Observatory island, before bringing
Triangle peak in line with Nose point, bearing S.S.W. Vessels may
anchor anywhere within the port ; the holding ground is so good as to
render it difficult to trip the anchor after a few days.
When working in, it should not be forgotten that the north shore
of the entrance nearly up to Shoal point is as steep as a wall, and that
the Observatory island shore is quite safe, although rather shelving. The
3-fathoms edge of soundings from Shoal point extends more than half
way across towards the west point of Observatory island, and there are
only 2 fathoms water for. nearly one-third of this distance.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, in Port Hamilton at
8h. 30m., and springs rise 11 feet ; but the rise is very irregular, the sea
standing at a higher level by 2 or 3 feet with southerly winds than with
those from the opposite quarter.
CASTLES GROUP. There are no islands near the Port Hamilton group
to the westward, nor nearer than 9 or 10 miles to the northward, but to
the eastward a chain of small islands and rocks form a continuous line for
the distance of 15 miles. The easternmost is named the Castles, from
whence the islets and rocks appear to take a north-easterly direction
* See Plan of Port Hamilton, No. 1,280; scale, m = 3 inches.
CHAP, vii.] PORT HAMILTON. 265
towards the coast of Korea, the high land of which is well in sight
in clear weather. The Castles are a group of islets four or five in
number, each about 2 cables in diameter, and about 200 or 300 feet high.
The south-easternmost islet bears E. N. 14-J- miles from the south
extreme of Aberdeen island, the largest of the Port Hamilton group.
PINTJ-ACIES GROXTP. N.N.W. 2 miles from the Castles are the
Pinnacles, a group of about^ the same size and height, but, as their name
implies, of a different form ; the largest of them has a conical peak.
coirs and xvsosQUXTO isi-AUSS. About 3^ miles to the north-east
of the entrance to Port Hamilton is an. island, about half a mile in
diameter, having a remarkable cone in the centre of it about 350 feet in
height ; and between this island and the port is the small high group
called the Mosquito islands, which are steep-to and safe of approach.
266
CHAPTER VIII.
PRATAS ISLAND ANT) REEF ; NORTH COAST OF LUZON ; AND
BABUYAN, BASHI, FORMOSA, MEIACO-SIMA, AND LU-CHU
ISLANDS.
VARIATION in 1861, Pratas shoal, 30' E.; Bashi islands, 30' W. ; Meiaco-sima
group, 1 15' W. ; Lu-chu islands, 2 0' W.
HAVING in the former Chapters completed the description of the
eastern coast of China, we will now return to the southward and describe
the islands and dangers fronting that coast, then the Japan and Kuril
islands, the Sea of Japan, the Gulf of Tartary, and the Sea of Okhotsk.
PRATAS ISLAND and REEF.* Pratas island, the north-east end of
which is in lat. 20 42' 3" N., long. 116 43' 22" E., rises from the west
side, and near the middle of the sunken part of the Pratas reef. It is
about l miles long, E. by S. and W. by N., half a mile wide, and 40 feet
high, of which elevation the scrubby bush, with which it is covered, forms
about 10 feet. It is composed of sand, not a particle of mould or earthy
matter could be found on it, and its shape is that of a horse-shoe, enclosing
a shallow inlet or lagoon, which runs into its western side for about half
a mile, and must afford shelter to the Chinese fishermen who come here to
fish in the early part of the year. Brackish water can be obtained by
digging a few feet into the sand. Gannets are numerous, and may be
knocked down with sticks.
The island is visible at a distance of 9 or 10 miles, in clear weather,
from the deck of a large vessel ; from the westward it will make like two
detached but contiguous islets, the centre being lower than the ends. It
is visible when near the south extreme of the reef, but more conspicuous
when approaching it from the westward or northward.
The Pratas reef, the north-east point of which is in about lat. 20 47' N.,
long. 116 53' E., is a coral barrier of nearly circular form, encircling a
lagoon with o to 10 fathoms water in it, and thickly studded with coral
knolls round its margin, but comparatively clear near the middle. The
reef is about 40 miles in circumference, one to two miles broad, and
slightly flattened on the northern side. Nearly two-thirds of it, or the
north, east, and south sides, are just dry at low-water springs, the re-
* Surveyed by John Richards, Master Commanding H.M.S. Saracen, April 1858. See
China Sea, Sheet 4, Mindoro Strait to Hong Kong, No. 2,661 ; scale, m = 0- 05 of an inch.
CHAP. Tin.] PRATAS ISLAND AND REEF. 267
mainder, or western side, forms a sunken barrier, across which there are
two channels leading into the lagoon, one on each side of Pratas island.
The north channel is about 3 miles wide, between the island and the edge
of the breakers, and 3 fathoms may be carried near the middle at low-
water springs. The south channel is by far the best of the two, from its
being wider, a little deeper, as well as its comparative freedom from
coral knolls.
TIDES. During the survey of the Pratas reef by H.M.S. Saracen
April 1858, it was high, water, full and change, at about 4h. a.m., and the
rise was about 5 feet. There was only one perceptible ebb and one flow
in the 24 hours at the springs. The highest tide occurred on the third
day after the full moon, but the tides were very irregular.
ANCHORAGE. Although the Pratas reef is steep- to in most parts, there
are several spots, where, in case of necessity, a vessel might find anchor-
age outside the breakers, particularly on the west side, abreast the middle
of the channels, through the sunken part of the reef, and at the distance
of about 1^ or 2 miles on either side of the island. At each of these
spots there is good anchorage in the N.E. monsoon, in from 20 to 10
fathoms, but the position abreast the south channel is considered the
best, the sunken reef at this part being deeper and the bottom more even
than in the channel north of the island. A vessel of light draught might
even anchor in safety on the reef, in the middle of the south channel in
3 fathoms at low water, or cross it and take up a berth inside the lagoon
in 10 fathoms fine sand.
Captain Ross, of the Indian Navy, visited this reef in the Discovery,
with the Investigator in company, in August 1813. The first soundings
obtained were 74 fathoms, fine coral, about 1-^ or 2 miles from the north-
east point ; from thence the former vessel steered along the north side,
about three-quarters of a mile from the breakers, in soundings of 31 to
38 fathoms ; the Investigator keeping about a quarter of a mile off, had
great overfalls of 10 to 24 fathoms. After rounding the north-west
part of the reef about a mile off in 35 fathoms rocky bottom, they
anchored in 24 fathoms, at about 1-L miles from the west end of the island,
Avith the island bearing from S.E. ^ S. to E.S.E. About half-way
between this position and the shore the depths were 4 and 5 fathoms, and
then veiy shoal water.
H.M.S. Highflyer, in May 1857, anchored about 8 cables from the
west end of the island, in 20 fathoms coral and clay, the extremes
bearing S.E. f E. and E. by S. She also anchored, with stream anchor,
at half a mile from the south-east edge of the reef, in 32 fathoms, white
mud, with the centre of the island bearing N.W. ^ W. distant 10 miles ;
there were 13 fathoms water at 2 cables from the edge of the shoal,
268 NORTH COAST OF LUZON. [CHAP.VHI.
and 7 fathoms at a short distance from the edge. In April 1859 II. M.
Steam Gunboat Leven anchored three-quarters of a mile off shore in 5
fathoms, with the centre of the island bearing E. by N.
CAUTION. In beating against, or running with, the strength of the
monsoon up or doAvn the China Sea,* vessels should always endeavour to
pass to leeward of the Pratas reef on account of the invariable set of
the current to leeward ; for there are no soundings to indicate a near
approach, and the weather is frequently thick and hazy in this vicinity.
The safest quarter to make the reef is from the north-west, the island
being on its western side, and the currents in the neighbourhood invariably
running in a N.E. or S.W. direction according to the monsoon.
In approaching the reef a vessel should be conned from the fore-top.
The sun should be well above the horizon, and if possible astern or on
the beam, as the bottom can then be easily seen in 10 fathoms.
NOKTH COAST OF LUZON.
BOTEADOR, which forms the north-west extreme of Luzon, is a
low point with a reef of breakers projecting off it about 1^ miles. From
hence the coast takes a north-east direction to Bangui point, distant about
15 miles.
Cavndian point, distant about 21 miles to the north-east of Cape Bojea-
dor, has a reef projecting about a mile out. The intermediate coast, at one
part, forms a bay, with some rocky islets near the shore. There is also
anchorage in the small bay adjoining the small port of Bangui, the
entrance to which port is between two points, with reefs extending
from them ; but it is said that this port has been long shut up by an
earthquake.
Caravallo point is a bluff, steep point of white cliffs, bearing about
E. b. S. 11 or 12 miles from Cavndian point, and having a mass of high
mountains contiguous, which go by the same name. Close to the point
there is an islet, and other islets lie near the shore, about H or 2 miles
to the eastward. To the eastward of Caravallo point there is a round hill
of middling height, called Pata point. The whole of the coast from Cape
Bojeador to this place is steep, without any soundings until near the
* The Macclesfield bank, lying in the fairway track from Singapore to Hong Kong, is
said to be growing up. The Truro shoal, in lat. 16 19' N., long. 116 41' E. -was dis-
covered by Capt. T. J. Duggan, of the ship Truro, in Sept. 1857. He states, "Whilst
taking my forenoon observation, distinctly saw the bottom, -white coral. Got a cast of
the lead instantly at 10 fathoms: again, abont half a mile more north, had 19 fathoms ;
steered north for another half mile, and had 22 fathoms, and the next cast no bottom at
40 fathoms. No shoal patches \vere visible from the mast head."
CHAP, vin.] CAPE BOJEADOR. PORT SAN VICENTE. 269
shore ; the land is of moderate height, and in some parts rather low close
to the sea, with several rivers ; but the country inland is high and
mountainous.*
The coast from Pata point to Cape Engano forms a deep bay with
a chain of mountains inland, and a considerable space of moderately
elevated, or rather low laud fronting the sea, interspersed with villages
and intersected by rivers. There is a continued beach along this coast
with regular soundings, generally 30 or 40 fathoms, and similar depths
extend 3 and 4 miles off shore when farther to the eastward. The only
known danger is a sand bank, on which the sea breaks in bad weather.
This bank lies about N. b. E. 2 miles from the bar of the Abulu river,
fronting the point to the westward of the river, the west end of it
bearing about South from the middle of Fuga island ; it extends
E.S.E. and W.N.W. about 2 miles, and about a mile outside of it there are
from 35 to 40 fathoms water, fine black sand.
The entrance of the great river Tajo, about 13| miles to the eastward
of the Abulu, has good anchorage in 10 or 11 fathoms, about 2 miles
N.N.E. from its mouth. The point on the south-east side is known by
the church and convent of the town of Apari built on it ; abreast of
which or North from the church is the best anchorage, with the volcanic
mountain on Camiguin island bearing N.N.E. easterly. The river is
about a third of a mile wide at the entrance, Avith 2 and 2^ fathoms on the
bar, deepening to 5 and 6 fathoms, mud, inside. The coast to the east-
ward of this river is flat, with soundings of 20 to 25 fathoms, black sand,
about 6 miles off shore.
PORT SAN VICENTE, about 30 miles to the E.N.E. of Apari, is
formed by a small island of the same name lying between the north-east
end of Luzon and its adjacent island called Palabi. There is room in this
port for three or four ships, sheltered from all winds ; but the entrance is
narrow and intricate, being formed between shoals on each side, which
project from the south-west part of Palabi, and from Vicente island; a
vessel is therefore obliged to warp in.
There is good anchorage in 5 fathoms opposite the mouth of the port,
and sheltered from all winds but those between W. and S.W. There is
also anchorage along the coast between Apari road and this place, in
15 or 20 fathoms water within 2 miles of the shore ; the soundings are
pretty regular, excepting a hole in the bank about 9 or 10 miles to the
S.W. of Vicente, with 70 and 80 fathoms water about 2 miles off shore,
having close to the edge of it 30 fathoms, black sand.
* See Charts : Bashi and Balingtang Channels, No. 1,352; scale, d = 5-3 inches;
and China Sea, Sheet 4, No. 2,661.
270 NORTH COAST OF LUZON. [CHAP. vm.
CAPE ENGANO forms the north-east point of the island of Palabi, and
is moderately elevated ; the south point of this island is a round hill
rather higher, and forms the east point* of Port San Vicente. From the
point of the Cape a coral reef, with high breakers and several rocks
above water, extends E.N.E. about 3 miles ; and patches of shoal water
project a mile beyond it. This reef fronts the eastern side of the island,
at the same distance, extending southward about 4 miles, until abreast of
a round hill forming its south point, and joins the north-east end of Luzon.
Close to the northward of the Cape are two islets, the outermost of which,
called Lava, is a square steep mass of lava about half a mile in extent,
and may be seen at the distance of about 27 miles.
The channel between Palabi island and Camiguin island to the N.N.W.
is about 20 miles wide, and clear of danger. As the currents set strong
to the northward in the South-west monsoon, it will be prudent for
vessels proceeding to the eastward from this coast with light winds to
keep on the south side of the channel, to prevent being drifted to the
northward near the Guinapac and Didicas rocks.
DIRECTIONS. When proceeding northerly from the Palawan passage
or from Manila in the North-east monsoon, it is customary to beat up the
west coast of Luzon to Cape Bolinao, and thence direct for Macao or
Hong Kong. But if bound to any of the ports northward, much time
may be saved by beating up through the Babuyan and Batan islands, and
along the eastern coast of Formosa, thereby avoiding the heavy labour,
wear, and loss of time by the attempt to work against the monsoon along
the coast of China, which even a clipper sometimes fails in effecting.
In working along the Luzon coast, particularly about dawn and sunset,
less sea, and much lighter winds, will be experienced by hugging the
coast by short boards, and at times even land breezes may very much
facilitate progress ; but in the attempt to render these available, great
caution should be observed, particularly between Capes Bolinao and
Bojeador, as several coastline dangers do not find place in the charts.
H.M.S. Samarang met with a dangerous patch in the bay near Dile point,
being at the time 2-^ miles off-shcre, a church bearing E.S.E.
Working up northerly, the first strong gust of the monsoon will be
experienced on clearing Cape Bojeador, but this should not induce the
navigator to stand farther westward than will enable him to make his
eastern stretch to weather it, when he will at once experience less wind.
This generally is the case on all lee shores backed by mountains, either
resulting from obstruction, reaction, or the effect probably, after sunset,
of counteracting land winds. There are no dangers among the groups
* Horsburgh, Vol. 2, seventh edition, page 587.
CHAP, vin.] BABUYAN ISLANDS. 2/1
north of Luzon which are not easily avoided, and no continuous strong
breezes will be experienced, at all comparable in force, or attended by
high sea, similar to those which prevail between Cape Bolinao and Hong
Kong. On the contrary, good working breezes, and at times light winds
prevail, enabling a sailing vessel of moderate speed to make the range of
6 degrees northing in 8 days. Typhoons are likely to happen in both
monsoons between the north coast of Luzon and Formosa.
BABUYAN ISLANDS.
The Babuyan or Five islands, named Dalupiri, Fuga, Calayan, Babuyan
Claro. and Camiguin, form a kind of circular chain fronting the north
coast of Luzon. The channels between them are said to be safe, without
soundings, and their coasts are generally steep-to ; but as these islands
have not yet been examined the.ir positions remain doubtful.
DALUPIRI ISLAND, the westernmost of the Babuyan group, lying
about 36 miles to the north-eastward of Cavndian point, has a level
appearance, extends 6 or 7 miles in a N.W. and S.E. direction, and may
be seen from a distance of 30 miles. About 1^ miles from its south point
is Rijutan islet, with shoals extending a considerable distance to the
southward ; but the water is deep in the narrow channel between the islet
and the south end of Dalupiri.*
FUCA xsZiAND, distant about 12 miles to the south-east of Dalupiri,
is lower, and of an even appearance, terminating in low land at the eastern
part. It is about 9 mites long, east and west, and there are irregular
soundings along its south-west side, where a vessel may occasionally
anchor.
The bay of Musa is formed between the west end of Fuga and two small
islands adjacent, called Barrete and Mabag. The best channel into the
bay is from the southward, between Barrete and the west point of Fuga,
the depths being 14 and 16 fathoms outside, and 9 to 12 fathoms in mid-
channel. The west channel into the bay between the two islands is
narrow, with soundings of 6 to 10 fathoms. The north channel into
the bay is rendered intricate by a reef extending half way across from
the north-east point of Mabag towards Fuga, and the tail of this reef,
joining the north-west point of Fuga, is a bed of rocks with 5 and 6
fathoms water on it ; this channel, therefore, ought not to be attempted
unless in a case of necessity, and a vessel to enter by it must borrow pretty
* The Spanish map of the Islas Filipinas for 1852, shows a reef extending from the
islet to the south end of Dalupiri.
2/2 BABUYAN ISLANDS. [CHAP. vm.
close to Fnga. Barrete island has a reef lying off its west side, and
another projecting from its south point. Water may be procured, but
with difficulty, some distance inland.*
DIRECTIONS Musa bay, although sheltered from the sea, is only
fit to run for in case of necessity, the bottom everywhere being coral
rock, mixed in some places with a little coarse sand or gravel. The
depths are 17 to 12 fathoms in the middle, shoaling to 4 or 5 fathoms near
the coral reefs that line the shores on either side, and the breadth of
the bay is not more than three-quarters of a mile. The best anchorage
is near the north-east side of Barrete island, in 14 or 15 fathoms water,
where the bottom is rotten coral and coarse sand ; near Fuga it is all very
rocky.
TIDES. The tide rises in ]Susa bay about 5 or 6 feet, but it is irregular
in time and direction.
, lying about 15 miles to the north-east of Dalu-
piri, is formed of mountainous and uneven laud, highest in the centre, with
low gaps in some places ; it is steep-to, without any safe anchorage, and
may be seen in clear weather at a distance of 45 miles. Some rocks above
water extend about a mile from its south point ; and about li miles off
the north-east point there is an islet called Panuctan, about a mile in
extent north and south. "
H.M.S. Comwallis experienced a high topping sea (first reported as
breakers) in passing between Dalupiri and Calayan ; this was almost
immediately succeeded by a glassy smoothness. These effects were attri-
buted to a strong north-west current.
WYiiiiiE ROCKS, consisting of two clusters above water, with high
breakers between them, are dangerous to vessels passing through the
Babuyan group in the night. The southernmost rock, which is the
largest, bears N.N.E., distant 4 or 5 miles from Panuctan islet ; the other
cluster lies about 1^ miles in a N.N.E. direction from the largest rock.
CLARO, the most northerly and highest of the Babuyan
islands, bears E.N.E. about 21 miles from Calayan. On its west end is
a volcano ; between the volcano and the mountains, on the eastern part,
there is a concave curve in the form of a crescent, when viewed from
the north or south ; but when the island is seen at a great distance
from the eastward, it appears as one round mountain with a detached
hummock to the northward. A reef projects from the west point of the
* See Plan of Musa Bay, No. 986; scale, m = 3' 9 inches.
CHAP, viii.] CALAYAN ISLAND. - PORT SAN PIO QUINTO. 273
island. The south point is steep and rocky, with a black rocky islet about
a mile off, in the form of a sugar loaf.
ISLAND, about 10 miles in extent N.N.E. and S.S.W., is
high and hilly, and lies about S. by W. 27 miles from Babuyan Claro.
Its shore in some places is bordered with coral rocks, having soundings of
30 to 35 fathoms about a mile off ; and the land is low close to the sea,
along its eastern and northern sides. The southern part of the island is
formed of a high mountain, formerly a volcano, visible at a distance of
60 miles. To the westward of this mountain some steep white cliffs front
the sea, about 2 miles to the southward of the south point of Port San
Pio Quinto.
PORT SAW PIO QUINTO may be considered the only place amongst
these islands tolerably safe for a large ship, for the bottom in it is not
so rocky as in Musa bay, Fuga island. It is formed in a concavity of the
land about 3 miles wide and H miles deep, a little to the southward
of the middle of the west side of Camiguin island, and is sheltered
from the sea by Pio Quinto islet, which lies in the middle of the entrance.
This islet is high, about H miles in circumference, steep-to seaward, and
has on each side a safe channel leading to the port. The south channel'
1^ miles wide with 40 fathoms at the entrance decreasing gradually,
inside, is between Pio Quinto islet and the south point of the port,
which, with an islet near ic, has the colour of iron ; and a little to the
southward there is a boiling spring of salt water. The north channel,
between Pio Quinto islet and north point of the port, is about a mile
wide, with soundings fronting it of 28 and 30 fathoms, and 17 and 18
fathoms inside ; but there is a rocky patch of only 6 and 8 fathoms,
lying rather nearer the islet than mid-channel, and a coral reef projects
about a quarter of a mile from the north point of the entrance.*
The bottom in the channels and in the port is mostly soft sand, with a
little coral in some places, and the soundings decrease gradually to the
shore around. The best anchorage is in 15 or 16 fathoms to the eastward
of Pio Quinto islet, abreast a rivulet of fresh water, which bears E.N.E.
from the islet.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, in Port San Pio Quinto at
6h. Om., and the springs rise about 6 feet.
GT7INAPAC ROCKS, bearing about E. by S. 10 miles from the north
poinfc of Camiguin, consist of two rocks like towers, one larger than the
other, with some smaller rocks contiguous. There are no soundings
* See Plan of Port San Pio Quinto, No. 984 ; scale, m = 1 6 inches.
Co-]
274 BATAN OR BASHI ISLANDS. [CHAP. vm.
within a short distance of their eastern side ; between them and the
nearest part of Camiguin is a channel 6 miles wide, which is safe on the
island side.
DIDICAS ROCKS, about 7 or 8 miles N.E. % E. of. the Guinapac, are
a group of four sharp-pointed rocks, much higher than the latter, and when
seen at a considerable distance appear like ships under sail. They are
about 2 miles in extent N.E. and S.W., and among them are many rocks of
various sizes, which render their approach dangerous in light winds ; for
the currents run strong to the northward, producing ripplings like breakers
in the vicinity of and among these dangerous rocks, and there are no
soundings near them where a vessel could anchor in case of necessity.
BATAN OR BASHI ISLANDS.
The Batan or Bashi islands, so called by Dampier from the name
of an intoxicating liquor which was much drank there, lie to the north-
ward of the Babuyan group, and consist of a chain of islands, mostly
high, extending from lat. 19 58' to 21 13' N., and the channels among
them are thought to be safe and free from hidden danger.* They are
named Balintang, Batan, Sabtan, Ibugos (or Baslii), Dequez (or Goat),
Diogo (or High island), Ibayat (or Orange island), Siayan, Mabudis,
Y'Ami, and North island. Batan, Sabtan, Ibugos, and Depuez were sur-
veyed by Captain Sir E. Belcher, H.M.S. Samarang, in 1843-1844.
During the North-east monsoon strong winds prevail amongst these
islands, and the currents are occasionally very strong ; the flood sets to
the S.W., the ebb to the N.E.
Supplies. The islands of Batan and Sabtan are mountainous, with
many broad cultivated spots ; the highest peak, apparently an old volcano
is about 5,000 feet above the level of the sea, and thickly covered with
trees. The former is, however, richer in soil, and produces abundance of
yams, sweet potatoes, maize, onions, garlic, rice, grain, &c. ; indeed the
only want appears to be variety of seed. Cattle, pigs, poultry, sheep and
goats are abundant ; deer are found on Sabtan and Ibugos, as well as
quail on all of the islands. Wood is reasonable and plentiful, as well as
water ; but this latter necessary is difficult to procure, as the rivers are
barred by reefs, which prevent boats from approaching or rafting oiT in
sufficient quantities for vessels of war ; this, however, would soon be
remedied if the visits of vessels rendered it advantageous.
BAX.INT.AN-G ISLANDS, in lat. 19 58' N., long. 122 14' E., and
the southernmost of this group, consist of three small but high-peaked
* See Plan of Batan Islands, No. 2,408 ; scale, d = 24 inches.
CHAP, vin.] BALINTANG ISLANDS. BATAN ISLAND. 275
islets or rocks, visible about 27 miles off, and when in one bear
E. by S. and W. by N. The westernmost islet is much larger than the
others, and a hole is seen through it when bearing N.E. ; they are steep-to,
and may be passed on either side at 2 or 3 miles distance, but the sea
beats violently against them in bad weather.
The Balintang channel, between these islets and Babuyan Claro, is about
25 miles wide, and is frequently used by vessels when proceeding by the
eastern passages to China.
BAT Air XSX.AXTD is about 9 miles long in a N.N.E. and S.S.W.
direction, and Mount Irada, on its northern extremity, is 3,806 feet above
the sea. The rest of the island is mountainous, and has several broad and
cultivated spots.
ANCHORAGE. The Samarang anchored in the bay of San Domingo
on the western side of Batan island, on a fair clear bottom of fine coral
sand, the best anchorage being with the convent barely open, when
moored off the northern point of the bay in 13 fathoms ; this, however, is
not very secure with a northerly wind. Although the holding ground is
good, this bay can only be resorted to in the North-east monsoon. There
is a patch of rocks, which show at low water, lying N.N.E. 4 cables from
Chaguie point, the south point of the bay, having 27 fathoms close-to on
the west, and 4^ fathoms on the east side ; and at a cable's length E.N.E.
from the point is a rock awash at low water.
The authorities recommended the anchorage off San Carlos, about 2
miles to the south-west, as the best for obtaining a supply of water ; but
this position is exposed, and watering could only be effected in fine
weather. The passage through the reef is, however, quite safe for the
largest boats, which land on a sandy beach. This passage has been cut
to admit schooners of 50 tons, which are generally hauled up when they
arrive from Manila with the first of the South-west monsoon.
Tha next anchorage is that of San Vicente, which is the port of Ivana,
or landing place for that village ; it, however, ought not to be resorted to
as it is very confined, with sandy bottom close to the reefs, and must
be quitted the moment a northerly wind threatens. Several vessels
have been driven off, and being unable to purchase their anchors have
had to cut or slip, owing to the length of cable out. During the South-
west monsoon other shelter must be looked for, and probably will be
found under the north-east part of the island of Sabtan ; it has not yet
been sounded. There are two deep bays which appear to afford shelter
on the north-east side of Batan, the northern and best is named Sonson,
the other Mafianion ; but both contain many rocks, and have not been
sounded.
S 2
276 BATAN OR BASHI ISLANDS. [CHAP. vm.
SABTANT ISLAND lies to the south-west of Batan, and is separated
from it by a channel 2 miles wide, which appears clear of danger. Off
the north end of Sabtan are two ledges of rock, with a passage between
them carrying 14 and 10 fathoms water. These rocks are placed on the
chart by land stations, from which they were clearly visible by the edges
of their breakers. The sea breaks upon them, and according to the
accounts given by II. M.S. Alceste they have only 3 feet water on them
at springs.
IBUGOS ISLAND is small and rather low, excepting a hill on its south
end, where there is a village. It is separated from Sabtan by a channel
from a mile to half a mile wide, which affords indifferent anchorage, the
bottom being rocky with sandy patches between. There are no facilities
for watering, the stream from the rivulet inside the south-west point of
Sabtan entering at the coral beach at least half a cable from the spot
where boats could float. This is the only safe landing place, the shores
on both sides of the channel being bordered by a reef, through some of
the gaps in which the native boats can pass in fine weather. Dequez
island is also small and rather low, and lies nearly half a mile to the
westward of the north-west point of Ibugos.
DIRECTIONS. The current sets strong to the southward between the
above islands. It is therefore advisable in the North-east monsoon to
work westerly round Dequez, and not to cross the channel between Batan
and Sabtan, until the dividing neck of San Carlos is clearly open, E.S.E.,
as the stream dividing at Mabatui point, sends one current southerly ;
the other, which is an eddy, is favourable from thence north-easterly to
San Domingo.
If bound to this latter anchorage, work up to the north-west angle of
the island until the wind is free to run down, when round-to with
all aback, and drop the inner anchor in 12 fathoms ; then veer and
drop tire outer anchor in 25 fathoms, which will afford sufficient room to
weigh. When moored the vessel will be in 15 fathoms, and the set of the
current will keep a fair strain on both cables.
IBAYAT ISLAND, lying 14 miles to the N.N.W. of Batan, is about
8 miles long in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction, and the channel between
them is free from danger ; Mount Sta. Rosa at its north end rises 680 feet,
and Mount Riposet, at its south-eastern part, 800 feet above the level
of the sea. The exterior of the island as viewed from the sea presents
a blank barren outline, defying disembarkation to any but those acquainted
with the locality, and is moreover without anchorage ; the interior is,
however, highly cultivated, and in many spots exhibiting patches of
good timber trees ; abundance of refreshments can be easily obtained.
CHAP, vni.] SABTAN ISLAND. Y'AMI AND NORTH ISLANDS. 277
DXOGO is a small high island, 848 feet above the sea, lying 3^ miles
eastward of Ibayat, and the channel between them is clear of danger.
This island is steep-to on its western side, but several small islets lie off
its eastern side, the outermost being distant a short half mile.
and SIAITAW iSLANTDS. Mabudis island, lying N.N.E.
6 miles from the north end of Ibayat, is about 1^ miles long in a N.E.
and S.W. direction, high and steep-to. One mile S.S.W. of it is Siayan
island, about 1^ miles in circumference, having off its north-east side
several detached rocks. The channel between Mabudis and Siayan is
rendered unsafe by detached rocks ; that between Ibayat and Siayan is
about 4 miles Avide, and free from danger.
and NORTH ISLANDS. Y'Ami, the northern island of the
Bashi group, is about a mile iii circumference and tolerably high ; the
position of the islet lying off its south-west point is lat. 21 4' 56" N.,
long. 121 58' 24" E.
North island, lying 2 miles S.S.W. from Y'Ami, is high and steep-to,
except on its eastern side, off which, at a cable's length, there are three
islets and some detached rocks. The channel between Y'Ami and North
island is safe, and carries soundings with rocky bottom, but too deep for
anchorage ; that between Mabudis and North island is 9 miles wide, and
free from danger.
The North Bashi rocks could not be found by Captain Sir E. Belcher,
who states " they have no existence in the position assigned to them in
the charts, nor in the visual radius from the mast head of the Samarang,
108 feet above the level of the sea."
GrA3>z> ROCK, or Cumbrian Reef. The position of this dangerous
rock was ascertained by Captain Ross, of the Indian Navy, to be in
lat. 21 43' N., long. 121 41' E. ; Little Botel-tobago sima bearing
N. W. It is about half a cable long, and the boat had a depth of 12
feet about the middle of the reef at, probably, the time of high water, as
Capt. Gadd, who appears to have first discovered it in the Swedish ship
Ostcr- Gothland, January 20th, 1800, perceived some points of rocks
amongst the breakers ; for there is a considerable rise and fall of tide
hereabout on the springs, affording sufficient cause to think that some
parts of the rock must be level with the surface of the sea, or
visible above the hollow of the waves at low water, when there is much
swell on.
ROCKS lie on nearly the same parallel, and 44 miles
westward of Gadd rock, and about S. W., distant 1 1 miles, from the
low South Cape of Formosa. They are a mass of detached rocks, above*
278 BATAN OR BASHI ISLANDS. [CHAP. vnt.
even with, and below water ; the highest may be seen at about 5 miles.
The channel between them and the south end of Formosa is safe ; but
very turbulent ripplings are often experienced in this and the neighbour-
ing channels, and they have been observed to run so high that the breakers
resembled the sea breaking furiously over a dangerous shoal.
DIRECTIONS __ Quitting the Batan islands during the North-east
monsoon, or merely working up to the northward past them, it is advisable
to make short boards to the north-east on the western side of Batan island
until Mount Irada bears S.S.E., then make a stretch to the north-west
and work up on the western sides of Ibayat, Siayan, and Mabudis ; but
on reaching the latter, pass through easterly between it and North island,
where the current will favour northerly.
Keep well to the eastward, or endeavour to pass well to windward of
Botel-tobago sima, as the currents in that neighbourhood press strong to
the westward, and the changes from strong breezes to calm, attended with
swell, are troublesome, as well as harassing.
Gadd rock lies in the fair way of the Bashi channel, and to avoid
it vessels should keep either toward Botel-tobago sima or towards the
northern port of the Batan group, taking great care to avoid the mid-
channel track. When passing southward of the above danger in thick
weather or in the night, keep well towards the latter group, making
allowance for a northerly current, which is generally experienced in light
winds and during the South-west monsoon. From lat. 21 15' N. to 21 21' N.
is a good trade to preserve when passing between the Batan group and
Gadd rock in thick weather. Several vessels during light winds have
been drifted by the current between Formosa and Botel-tobago sima.
-TOBAGO SIMA* is a high island, 7^ miles in length in a
N.W. and S.E. direction, appearing in form of a saddle, or with a gap in
it when viewed from a S.S.W. or N.N.E. direction, and is visible about
50 miles from the mast head. It is well inhabited, and its highest part is
crowned with trees ; the north-east peak is 1,850, and the west peak
1,820 feet above the sea.
There are several large villages on the southern part of the island,
and on the north-west side are several rocky points. Detached rocks
remarkable for their spire- like form, lie off the northern extremity
The coast is rocky in almost every part, and probably dangerous to
* See Charts : Formosa island, No. 1,968, scale, d = &\ inches ; and China General,
from Hong Kong to Liau-tung, No. 1,262, scale, d = 2 inches. Sima signifies island in
Japanese ; Jama, san, hill ; Take, mine, peak ; Saki, cape ; Sedo, channel ; Kawa ;
river ; Fana, hana, point ; Mura, village ; Umi, nada, lake.
CHAP, viii.] BOTEL-TOBAGO SIMA. LITTLE BOTEL-TOBAGO. 279
land upon, as these needle rocks are seen in many parts of the island ;
with the exception, however, of those off the north extreme, they are
attached to the island by low land ; but the shore under water often
assumes the character of that which is above, in which case a vigilant
look-out for rocks would be necessary in rowing along the coast.
LITTLE BOTEii-TOBAGO is a small island of considerable height,
lying about 3^ miles to the S.E. of the southern part of Botel-tobago.
A reef, steep-to, projects about a cable's length from its south end.
The Alceste shoal, marked on the chart in about lat. 22 5' N., long.
121 18' E., is supposed to have no existence.
FORMOSA OR TAI-WAN ISLAND.
Formosa island is about 210 miles long, N.N.E. and S.S.W., and be-
tween 60 and 70 miles wide at its broadest part, which is near the middle.
The land is generally high in the interior, but low in some places
seaward, with soundings near the shore, particularly on the western side.
The southern part has on it a high double-peaked mountain, visible 60
miles in clear weather, from which the land slopes down to the southward,
terminating in a low projecting point called the South Cape.
From the south-end of Formosa to Liang-kiau, the coast range, from 250
to 300 feet high and composed of dark rocky cliffs, is backed by an inland
range, rising to the height of about 2,000 feet above the sea, and ter-
minating to the southward in a remarkable craggy peak of the same
height, from which extends to the south-east the long low promontory of
the South Cape. The hills about this part of the island are mostly bare,
their summits only being wooded.
The wind blowing a brisk gale from the westward prevented the
Inflexible* from examining the coast about the south end of Formosa, but
the sea was observed breaking very heavily over the Vele-Rete rocks, and
heavy tide ripples extended nearly the whole distance across to them from
the South Cape. A good harbour, affording anchorage in 5 fathoms, was
reported to exist at 3 miles East of the South-west point at Formosa.
A reef is said to project from this cape, for high breakers, thought to bo
upon a sunken reef, projecting to a considerable distance from the cape,
were observed from II. M.S. Alceste, when that vessel was passing between
Botel-tobago sima and Formosa. To the north-east of the cape there is
* Remarks made during the visit of H.il.S. Inflexible to the island of Formosa, in
search of missing Europeans, by Mr. William Blackney, R.X., Assistant Surveyor,
June 1858.
280 FORMOSA ISLAND ; WEST COAST. [CHAP.VIII.
t
a village and harbour for small vessels ; and there are, it is said, sound-
ings near the shore on the west side of the cape.
Y ISLAND, lying about 9 miles from the western coast of
Formosa, and 29 miles to the north-west of the South-west point, is
about 180 feet high, and may be seen at a distance of 18 miles. The island
is 3^ miles in length, north and south, has high yellow cliffs on its
western side, a small sandy beach on its eastern, and is inhabited by
Chinese fishermen.
Capt. Ross of the Indian Navy examined this island in the Discovery,
and no bottom was obtained with 70 fathoms line westward of it ; but
about 3 miles eastward of the island a bank of soft mud commences,
which, extending off Formosa, has soundings on it of 15 to 26 fathoms.
A reef extends off about a mile between the south-east and north-east
points of the island ; it is steep-to, there being 25 and 30 fathoms
water close to its edge.
In steering from the South-west point of Formosa, along the western
coast, the Discovery had no soundings off the point until within half a
mile of the shore, then had 120 fathoms ; and with Lambay island bearing
about W.N.W., got 30 and 40 fathoms on the mud-bank when about \^
miles off Formosa, and passed between the island and the coast. At anchor
in 15 fathoms, soft bottom, about 3 miles off the town of Pong-li, with it
bearing N.E. by E. - E., Lambay island bore from W. ^ S. to W. f N.,
the north-west extreme of the coast, a small black hummock, N.W. ^ N.,
and the south extreme of the coast S.S.E.
From Pong-li the Discovery worked to the westward, and anchored in
15 fathoms about 3 miles off the coast of Formosa, and 5 or 6 miles from
Lambay island, with the black hummock bearing N. % W., brow of western
hill N.N.W. * W. ; a town near which there is a river or inlet and many
boats at anchor bore N.E. by E., distant 3 or 4 miles, Lambay island from
S. by W. W. to S. ^ E., the south-east extreme of the coast S.E. f S.
In working across, as Lambay island was approached, the soundings
increased from 35 fathoms into deep water, having 52 fathoms about a
mile of Lambay, from the south-east and eastern parts of which a reef
projects a short distance. From this last anchorage she steered about
4 miles to the westward, then got off the bank of soundings.
X.EAXUG xiAOti BAY. *At 11 miles N.N.W. from the South-west
point of Formosa is Liang-kiau bay, the south point of which is about 300
feet high, and makes like an island from the northward ; the point termi-
* Mr. W. Blackncy, E.N., II.M.S. Inflexible, June 1858.
CHAP, vm.] LAMBAY ISLAND. - PORT TA-KAU-KON. 281
nates abruptly seaward, and slopes gradually tcnvards the head of the bay,
leaving a level between it and the high hills trending from Pong-li.
The north point of the bay, bearing about N.N.E. 2^ miles from the
south point, is a low grassy flat extending from the foot of the hills,
and on it stands the village of Liang-kiau, which is the most southern
Chinese settlement on the west coast of Formosa. The bay is open to all
westerly winds, but it affords good anchorage in the North-east monsoon.
It is about 1^ miles deep, and from the depth of 9 fathoms, sand, between
the outer points, the water shoals gradually towards the long sandy beach
at its head. The approach to the bay is quite clear ; outside the soundings
deepen rapidly from 10 to 15 and 30 fathoms, and from 45 to 50 fathoms
at 5 miles from the coast.
X is a small Chinese town at 15 miles N. by W. -- W.
from Liang-kiau bay and a short distance inland, about a mile to the
northward of a remarkable square clump of trees on the beach. The
Inflexible anchored abreast the town in 5 fathoms water, at about 3 cables
from the beach. Landing was effected in Chinese catamarans, the surf
being too high for the vessel's boats, although there had been but little
wind the three previous days.
The shore between Pong-li and Ta-kau-kon is a low sandy beach ;
but a short distance within are numerous clusters of bamboos and Chinese
houses, and a country highly cultivated. The depths are from 8 to 9
fathoms at 2 miles from the beach, but in crossing the bight, in which the
river Tollatock is marked on the chart, no soundings were obtained with
the hand lead.
PORT TA-XAir-xow. *Ape hill, called by the natives Ta-kau, bears
S. by E ^ E., 22|- miles from the old Dutch fort of Zelaiidia. It appears
like a truncated cone, on a North and South bearing, and is 1,110 feet
high, sloping towards the land side, and makes at a distance 'like an
island. At 4^ miles N.E. of Ape hill is another remarkable hill, 700
feet high, which from its resemblance to a huge whale sleeping on the
water, Avas named Whaleback ; and N.N.E., 12 miles, there is a small
triangular shaped hill, and a large detached piece of table- land resembling
a quoin, on a North and South bearing. These are the only landmarks
on this part of the coast (which is all very low), and of these Ape hill
is the most useful, as it stands out on the coast line, and is frequently
seen distinctly when all the others are shrouded in mist.
* The south-west coast of Formosa from Ta-kau-kon to Kok-si-kon was surveyed by
John Richards, Master, Commanding II.M. surveying vessel Saracen, in February 1855.
See Chart : West Coast of Formosa, with Plans of Port Kok-si-kon ^and Port Ta-kau-
kon, No. 2,409 ; scale, m = three-quarters of an inch.
282 FORMOSA ISLAND ; WEST COAST. [CHAP. vin.
This bill is one vast block of coral, and although resembling the crater
of a volcano in the peculiar form of its apex, no traces could be discovered
of volcanic action. From its summit to the southward it descends in a
gradual though somewhat rugged slope, and terminates in a huge nearly
level block of a mole-like appearance, which, jutting through the beach
to seaward for about 300 yards, forms a sheltered anchorage for small
vessels in the strength of the North-east monsoon. This mole is separated
from the hill by a deep chasm 50 fathoms wide, and within this is the
little port of Ta-kau-kon. The south-west part of the mole is a steep
cliff, named Saracen head.
This port has a narrow bar, with 11 feet on it at low water,
extending from the south side of the entrance, curving to the N.W.
and N.N.W. in the direction of Ape Hill ; but directly this is passed the
water deepens to 4, 6, and 9 fathoms just within the port. The entrance,
though narrow, is steep-to and quite safe of approach, but unfortunately
the anchorage within is so very confined that there is no room for a vessel
to swing ; it is therefore necessary to moor head and stern. The tides
are also rather strong when near the springs ; but this anchorage is sus-
ceptible of great improvement at small expense, and as Formosa is opened
to commercial enterprise this place must advance in importance.
Supplies. Good water can be obtained at Port Ta-kau-kon, but not in
any large quantity, from the difficulty of transport ; also bullocks, pigs,
fowls, ducks, eggs, rice, sugar, fish, and vegetables.
vrnrXiOY SHOAii. * This dangerous sand-bank, about half a mile
in extent, and with only from 8 to 12 feet on it at low water, lies a good
mile off shore, S.S.E. 4^ miles from the entrance of Port Kok-si-kon,
W. by N. N. 4^ miles from fort Zelandia, and S.W. by W W. 2 miles
from Joss islet. With southerly winds the sea breaks heavily on it, but
with off shore or north-east winds there is but little break. The soundings
are 4^ to 5 fathoms at 1^ miles westward of the bank, and 3 fathoms
between it and the shore.
Vessels, when bound from Port Kok-si-kon to Port Ta-kau-kon, will
pass well to the westward of this shoal, by not approaching the coast
within 3 miles, or not coming into a less depth than 4^ or 5 fathoms,
until fort Zelaudia bears East.
TIDES. The flood stream sets in a N.N.W. direction from 1^
to 2 knots an hour along this part of the coast. The ebb runs S.S.E.
except near Kok-he-mung, where its direction is S. by W. out of the
harbour.
* Mr. W. Blackney, H.M.S. Inflexible, June 1858.
CHAP, mi.] YUYLOY SHOAL. PORT KOK-SI-KON. 283
PORT KOK-sx-KOir, the north point of entrance to which, Gull point,
is 32 miles to the N.N.W. of Saracen head, can only be recognized by the
number of large junks generally at anchor inside, and by three larger
clumps tff huts than can be found on any of the outer sand-banks which
front all this part of Formosa, and which are elevated only 2 or 3 feet
above high water. These banks run in lines, generally parallel to the
coast, from 2 cables to half a mile broad, and are pierced at every mile
or so by narrow channels, having depths varying from 7 feet and under.
There is no vegetation in sight from the western sand bar ; the main
land of Formosa can only be seen in very clear weather from it, and the
whole intermediate space seems to be an intricate mass of sand and mud
banks and shallows, with occasional patches of sedge.
These sand-banks are occupied by a few poor fishermen, whose miserable
huts and bamboo rafts are the only relieving features of this dreary scene.
Ape hill to the southward, and the southern islands of the Pescadores
to the westward, will be found useful marks to run in for Kok-si-kon,
which bears N.N.W. 30 miles from the former, and E. b. S. f S. 26
miles from East island, Pescadores. The old Dutch fort of Zelandia,
built in 1634, is just in sight from the anchorage, from which it bears
S.E. S. and is distant 7^ miles.
This port is the outlet of several small shallow streams which here
unite and form a channel through the mass of sand-banks fronting the
coast. This channel or port runs N.E. and S.W., and, taking the 3-fathoms
line as its boundary inside, is three-quarters of a mile long and only
2 cables broad, with 4-^ fathoms in the middle ; it is, therefore, necessary
to moor N.W. and S.E. The bar has 12 feet on it at low water springs.
The deepest part is generally marked by the natives with bamboos ; but,
as the channel is both wide and straight and the bottom remarkably even,
it is by no means difficult of access for vessels of 12 or 13 feet draught
at high tide. The Saracen sailed in drawing 13 feet 2 inches, but then
the sea was remarkably smooth ; vessels, therefore, drawing over 13 feet
should not attempt to enter, particularly with any swell on.
Fresh water is procured from Tai-wan fu, and if a vessel should only
require this article, she will do better by anchoring at once off that town,
about three-quarters of a mile off shore ; where in 5^ fathoms, with the
old Dutch fort bearing N.E., she will find capital anchorage and good
shelter from December to March. During the rest of the year the chances
of south-west winds would render this position unsafe, and anchorage
should of course be sought farther out. At the distance of If miles
N.W. of the old fort there is a large clump of trees on the outer sand bar.
The ruins of the old Dutch fort are about two-thirds of a mile inside
the sand, about 60 feet above the sea level, and the only conspicuous land-
284 FORMOSA ISLAND J WEST COAST. [CHAP. vin.
mark in this neighbourhood; they can be seen 8 or 9 miles from a vessel's
deck. The principal town of the island, Tai-wan fu, stands S.E. 2
miles from the fort, and large junks trading to the place in the North-east
monsoon generally anchor off the fort, and send their cargoes by this
route to the town. Here the main land of Formosa approaches Avithin
a mile of the sand bars fronting the coast, and although it is generally
marshy and flat, it is cultivated with rice, &c. The sand bars are also
occasionally clothed with bushes and grass, and are densely populated by
fishermen, who appear to be well fed and clothed and a happy and con-
tented people, and pursue their vocation generally in divisions under the
direction of particular chiefs ; and their rafts hauled upon the beach,
placed in tiers on their sides, form a feature in the appearance of the
coast. Whenever the officers of the Saracen landed they were treated
with the greatest civility and deference, and the surveying marks,
although sometimes made of an article most tempting to them (white
calico), were never in one case interfered with.
There is no remarkable feature in the coast until within 8 miles of Ape
hill, where commence some low mud cliffs, and there is also a small piece
of table land about a mile inland. The coast between the old Dutch fort
and Ape hill is nearly a straight line of beach, pierced by four small
streams, navigable only for boats.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, at Port Kok-si-kon, at
1 Ih. 30m., and the rise is about 3 feet. The tide from the bar inside sets
fairly through the channel ; its greatest strength being about a knot.
Outside the bar the flood sets northward, along the coast, the ebb south-
ward ; its strength varies in different positions, running with much
greater velocity off the west sand bar or the edge of the deep water than
in the shoal water bight off Tai-wan, where it is occasionally variable in
strength and direction.
DIRECTIONS.* The high land of Formosa, immediately over Port
Kok-si-kon, may be distinctly seen in very clear weather from the Pesca-
dores, but as it is generally obscured, and the coast low and sandy, it
will be prudent at all times, when bound to that port from the westward,
to be certain of the vessel's position before losing sight of East island, or
one of the southern islands of that group.
The mast heads of a large fleet of junks, usually at anchor in the small
harbour of Kok-he-mung, at 5 miles S.E. by E. of Kok-si-kon, will serve
as a guide on approaching the coast, and when at a distance of 3 or
4 miles from the shore, three clumps of huts and trees, (the southernmost
clump abreast of West point being the largest and most conspicuous,)
* Mr. W. Blackney, H.M.S. Inflexible, June 1858.
CHAP. TIII.] PORT KOK-SI-KON. 285
Joss islet, and fort Zelandia, are objects sufficiently well defined to mark
the locality. Joss islet has a clump of dark trees on its southern end, and
the Joss house on it a white front to seaward. Ung-lo and So-co are
remarkable hills, and may generally be seen when the mountains in the
interior are hidden. The clouds sometimes rest upon them, when they
appear as the highest land in the vicinity. Ung-lo, 1,080 feet high, is the
southern termination of a long table range, which falls steeply for a few
hundred feet, and rises again to the round hill of So-co, 880 feet high.
The Inflexible in 1858 anchored in 6 fathoms off Port Kok-si-kon,
Observatory point bearing N.E. by E. 1^ miles. The wind being light
from the S.S.E. and South, an attempt was made to enter the port in the
vessel's boat, but it was unsuccessful, as the sea broke the whole way across
the entrance. The Chinese fishermen stated that the channel and sand-
banks have altered considerably since surveyed by Richards in 1855.
There were no junks at anchor in the port, but the harbour of Kok-he-
mung was crowded with them. A party from the vessel landed inside the
latter harbour, and visited Ta'i-wan fu, the capital of the island. They
were civilly received by the authorities, who sent off presents of pigs,
goats, fowls, sweet potatoes, &c.
COAST of FORMOSA.* The north end of Formosa is high
and mountainous, except the north and north-west points, which are low,
and have reefs extending a considerable distance off ; from it the Tam-sui
range rises to the height of 2,800 feet above the sea, and is generally
covered with clouds. In the neighbourhood of, and eastward of Ke-lung
harbour, the coast hills are wedged shaped, nearly all perpendicular to
the north-west and sloping to the eastward.
Petou point, the north-east extreme of Formosa, is a peninsula, 400
feet high, and from a distance appears like an island ; the small boat
harbour and fishing village of Petou is close to the westward of it. The
coast from thence to Ke-lung harbour is steep-to, all the off-lying rocks,
which are composed of sandstone, showing above water. The most
remarkable feature on this coast is Dome peak, which makes in that
form from the X.E. At 5 miles westward of Petou point is the entrance
to Chimmo bay, in which a vessel might anchor if in distress, or forced
in by a northerly wind. The depths are from 4 to 10 fathoms at the
entrance, and 5 and 4 fathoms at the head of the bay, under the lee of the
point on its eastern side. This point is foul, and should be given a
berth in entering.
At 7^ miles westward of Petou point, and 2 miles eastward of Ke-
* This coast, with Tam-sui and Ke-lung harbours, [is from the survey by the late
Lieutenant Gordon, Commanding H.M.S. Royalist, 1847.
286 FORMOSA ISLAND J NORTH COAST. [CHAP. vm.
lung harbour, is Pe-ta-ou bay, open to the N.W., surrounded with reefs
and rocks, and shoal at the head ; it might, however, be available to a
vessel embayed to windward of it, and in distress. Immediately west-
ward of Ke-lung harbour is a bay 4^ miles across, with numerous reefs
running off the points within it ; its north-west point is formed by a
remarkable sandstone peninsula, named Masou, 250 feet high, and quite
perpendicular to the north-west.
To the westward of this peninsula is the deep bay and valley of Masou,
in the middle of which is an islet with three rocks lying to the S.E. of it,
two of which are covered at low tide, the other always shows. From thence
the coast appears bold until Foki point, the north end of Formosa, is
approached. This point is very low, and has a dangerous shoal extending
off about a mile from it, and then trends round to the westward. It will
be prudent to give this point a wide berth, as H.M.S. Royalist shoaled
Suddenly from 30 to 60 fathoms, and there were breakers close to leeward
of her.
From Foki point the coast trends to the south-west 8^ miles, to
Tam-sui harbour, with a reef fronting it for the first 5 miles, and in
some places extending nearly half a mile off shore. The coast rises
gradually, and is very flat for several miles inland to the Tam-sui range.
From Tam-sui harbour the coast line bends in a W.S.W. direction for 20
miles to an elevated sand hill named Paksa point. The first 5 or 6 miles
is table land, about 600 feet high, and is steep-to until within 2 miles of
the harbour. This table land is succeeded by low land with sand hills ;
along this part reefs extend about half a mile off shore, with soundings
of 7 fathoms well clear of them, and there are numerous creeks, in some
of which j unks were seen lying. Here the melancholy loss of the brig
Ann took place on the 10th March 1842.
From Paksa point the coast runs S.S.W. ^ W. 10 miles to a table hill
360 feet high, with low land on either side of it. From a position off this
hill the elevated land about Tam-sui shows over the low land as three
hills, and in fine weather the high ranges, rising to the height of about
12,000 feet in the centre of the island, will be seen to the S.E. Along
this part of the coast, as to the northward, are numerous creeks and
reefs extending a short distance off; the bottom is dark sand and not fit
for anchoring on. South of the table hill reefs extend nearly half a mile
offshore, and there is a barred river in which several junks were seen
At 9 miles to the southward of the table hill is the port and village
of Teukcham, in which were several large junks. This port is only
available for vessels of light draught, and is formed by a sand spit running
to the southward ; with the end of this spit bearing North, and half way
CHAP, viii.] DIRECTIONS. 2S7
between it and a sand bluff to the southward, a vessel may anchor in
4 fathoms at low water ; smaller craft can go farther in and anchor in
1| fathoms, but the holding ground is bad and open to the N.W. The
sand bluff forms the south-west point of the port, and the point, which is
steep-to, has some fishing huts on its extreme.
The bay to the southward of Teukcham has a reef extending from
its centre, and at the south corner of the bay is a barred creek in which
were numerous junks. A low serrated sandy ridge with a low sandy
point, on which is a large fishing village, terminates this bay ; off the
point and off the village, the water is deep well in, but it appears to
shoal off the coast to the southward. With the exception of the ridges,
the land in this neighbourhood is low, the hills are all sandy, and show
little vegetation. A range of hills having a low but remarkable peak at
the point forms the southern point of the bay, off which it is shoal ; from
thence the coast range extends about 5 miles. The coast appeared to be
steep-to, but, as in other places along it, the holding ground is bad.
Single peak, a round isolated hill 200 feet high, is a remarkable object
in this locality. A river disembogues to the southward, with a large
bamboo plantation on its north side. The survey was not continued
farther than Single peak, but the coast to the southward was observed
to be very low.
DIRECTION'S. As far as Lieutenant Gordon was enabled to examine
the north-west coast of Formosa, it was his opinion that a great advan-
tage would be obtained, were sailing vessels, instead of hugging the coast
of China or beating up in the middle of the Formosa channel during
the North-east monsoon, to reach well over, and at all events during
the day to stand close in to the Formosa shore (page 11), particularly
on the ebb tide. The latter stream was always found setting strong
to the N.E., whereas the flood ran very weak to the S.S.W., the former
having the advantage over the latter of at least 8 miles every 24 hours.
It was also observed that until the middle of the Formosa channel was
passed, there was no southerly set, and though the Royalist experienced
a continuation of severe weather for several days, during which time she
generally stood off and on under easy sail, she generally weathered and
was always to windward of her reckoning.
The time of high water, full and change, on the north-west coast of
Formosa is at noon, and the bottom is dark sand, with, occasionally, shells
and broken stones ; soundings of 30 to 40 fathoms near the shore, and
25 to 17 fathoms at 10 to 20 miles off. The water commences shoaling
about 11 or 2 miles from the shore, and the depths decrease rapidly.
The sea near the coast in moderate weather is smooth, the wind blowing
along the land.
288 FORMOSA ISLAND ; NORTH COAST. [CHAP. vm.
E-sirz HARBOTTB, the south point of the entrance to which is
in lat. 2o KX X., long. 121 26* E., is formed between a high range
(2,800 feet above the sea) to the north-east, and a remarkable doable hill
(the north peak of which is 1,720 feet, and the other 1,240 feet above
the same level) to the south-west. There is a bar across the entrance
with only 10 feet on it, but having entered, the depths increase to 4
fathoms, and a large river runs to the south-east, with two smaller
branches leading through the valley to the southward. The principal
town, named Min-ka, in the north part of Formosa, is said to be about
13 miles up the main branch of this river.*
The following information is from Her Majesty's Consul at Amoy, llth
May 1857 : "Owing to the prohibition by the authorities at Formosa
against the export of rice from Tam-sui harbour, vessels that now arrive
load almost entirely with coal at about 1^ dollars per ton ; and it is said
that arrangements may be made for the formation of a stock for the
supply of Her Majesty's steamers on very favourable terms. The harbour
is quite safe from all storms ; and, although there are only 10 feet on
the bar at low water, yet, the rise being from 7 to 12 feet, vessels of
moderate draught may enter or leave daily."
Supplies. There appears to be a large trade carried on between
Tam-sui and the Fu-kyen province. The principal exports being coal, oil
made from ground-nut, sulphur, camphor, and camphor wood ; rice was
also exported before the above prohibition. There is good water running
down in large streams from the south hill. Bullocks, pigs, goats, poultry,
vegetables and fruit abound.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, in Tam-sui harbour at
llh. 45m., and the rise is from 7 to 12 feet. From observations made
in the Royalist when at anchor off the harbour, October 1847, five days
before full and change, the flood set S.S.W. 1^ knots per hour at its
strength, and 3i knots the whole tide ; and the ebb ran to the X.E. 3 knots
per hour at its strength, and 7 miles the whole tide. The flood appeared
to run about 4 hours, the ebb 8 hours. As the ebb sets along shore to the
north, and has the advantage of 4 miles in the twelve hours and more
during spring?, it will greatly assist a vessel when beating to wind-
ward durin the Xorth-east monsoon.
. The anchorage off this harbour is unsafe, as the
holding jrround is not good, being a loose sand, and a vessel, though
with a <rood scope of cable out, is likely to drive even in moderate weather.
When the wind freshens from the X.E. a heavy sea rolls in, breaking even
* See Plan of Tam-sai harbour, Xo. 2,376 ; scale, n 3j inches.
CHAP, vni.] TAM-SUI HARBOUR. - KE-LUNG HARBOUR. 289
in 3 fathoms, and a sailing vessel must immediately go to sea, for should
the wind veer to the N.W. that might not be accomplished.
The former mark for entering the harbour, viz., the small round red
fort upon a little hill on the north side of the river, in line with the
highest peak, 2,800 feet high, behind the town bearing E. S. can no
longer be used, as the bar is constantly changing its position. The
present mark over the bar, in 1857,* is the red fort in line with the lower
fort's centre, which will lead in nothing less than 3 fathoms at high water ;
but no stranger should attempt to enter without a pilot.
HARBOUR. The north end of Formosa forms, between
Fo-ki and Petou points, an extensive bay, 22 miles wide, into which the
North-east monsoon rolls a heavy sea ; the current during the ebb
sets strong to the eastward, and only occasionally changes its direction to
the N.W. during the flood. In the middle of this bay is Ke-lung island, a
remarkable black rocky island rising precipitously on all sides to the
height of 580 feet above the sea, with rather a flat summit. This
excellent landmark guides to the entrance of Ke-lung harbour, the
entrance to which bears from it S.W. by S., and is distant 2 miles. At
a cable's length from the north-west side of the island is a conical rock
100 feet high, and broken water extends 2 cables from its south-west
extreme ; the other parts of the island are steep-to, though the strong
tide ripples around it frequently resemble breakers. No danger exists
between it and the shore, the soundings being 30 to 35 fathoms, sand,
but the heavy tide ripples must be guarded against.
The country in the vicinity of the harbour is richly wooded to the
water's edge, and the land rises in a succession of picturesque knolls and
undulating hills, fantastically piled one above the other, the distant
prospect being closed by a range of lofty mountains. Few dwellings,
or signs of cultivation, are visible, but the brilliancy of the verdure and
luxuriance of the vegetation render the coup (Fail most striking, a perfect
contrast to the sterile-looking mainland of China.
Ke-lung harbour, but for Ke-lung island, would not be easy to find,
as a sand spit projecting from the low island or cay (Bush island) on the
eastern side of the entrance almost conceals it. The entrance is formed
between Palm island on the east and Image point on the west. Off-lying
the former, West 3 cables, is Bush island, a low rocky islet about 10 feet
high, and covered with shrubs, thus narrowing the entrance between it
and Image point to 4 cables. The passage between Palm island and Bush
island is used only by boats.
* Thomas R. Collingwood, Master of H.M.S. Comtts, 1857.
290 FORMOSA ISLAND ; NORTH COAST. [CHAP. vin.
Image point is remarkable from the number of detached pieces of rock
which the action of the sea has worn into grotesque figures ; the summit
over it, 390 feet high, has several patches of stratified cliff on the seaward
slope. Palm island is three-quarters of a mile long, east and west. The
land over its northern coast is 200 feet above the sea. Close to its north-
west extreme, and almost connected with it, is Macedonian mound, 140
feet high. Both the island and the mound are fringed with steep shelving
rocks, having 7 and 10 fathoms close to ; in approaching them from
the north-east, Image point should not be brought to the westward of
S.W. S.
On the western side, a little within the entrance, is a small bight, named
Merope bay, in which a vessel of that name remained 10 days and pro-
cured good water and refreshments. The anchorage in it is in 9 fathoms
nearest to the coral bank which extends from the northern shore.
The town of Ke-lung is nothing but a beggarly collection of wooden
huts, more filthy than the suburbs of Amoy, and the inhabitants, of Chinese
extraction, apparently very poor and wretched. There are several coal
mines about a mile E.S.E. of the town, on the southern banks of the
small shallow stream which branches off in that direction.
Supplies. The trade of Ke-lung is extensive, principally with the river
Min, Chin-chu, Amoy, and Tongsang. For the latter place quantities of
coal are shipped, and for the former rice, ground-nut oil, camphor, and
camphor wood.
Good water is easily obtained on the western shore of the harbour, in
the second small bay within Crag peak. There are several streams on
either shore. Pigs, poultry, and sweet potatoes may be purchased,
but at high prices, the Chinese having only sufficient for their own
consumption.
Coal, from the mines in the vicinity of Ke-lung, was brought off to
H.M.S. Inflexible in 1858 for four dollars a ton. It was reported good for
domestic purposes and for steamers making short passages ; but it con-
sumes rapidly and makes much smoke.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, in Ke-lung harbour at
lOh. 30m., and the rise, when uninfluenced by the weather, is about 3 feet.
The flood at the entrance sets fairly into the harbour about a knot an hour;
the ebb towards the eastern shore and rocks off Bush island. In the
narrows of Junk passage the streams run with great velocity. Outside the
harbour the flood sets into the bight towards Masou peninsula ; the ebb
to the south-eastward along the coast.
DIRECTIONS, When nearing the entrance of Ke-lung a remarkable
hill, named Crag peak, will be seen at the head of the harbour, and
CHAP, viii.] KE-LUNG HARBOUR. COAL HARBOUR.
by steering for it on a S. f W. bearing, it will lead in mid-channel
between Bush island and Image point. The soundings in the middle of
the entrance are 14 to 12 fathoms, decreasing a little towards the coral
banks which border the shores on either side.
After passing Image point steer S.E. ^ S. for the Sandy bay on the
eastern shore, anchoring in 5^ or 6 fathoms, mud, good holding ground, when
the points of Junk passage (the channel on the south side of Palm island)
are open, Image point bearing N.W. l W. The vessel will then be 2
cables to the southward of Inflexible reef which is a sunken ledge of rocks,
1 1 cables in extent, with 6 to 12 feet on it at low water; from the western
and shoalest part of this reef Crag peak bears S.W. by S. southerly, and
Image point W. by N. 1 N. A sunken ledge, with 3 to 9 feet on it, also
extends 1^ cables East of Crag peak. The junks anchor in 2 and
2^ fathoms at a quarter of a mile to the southward of the peak, and
about a mile from the town of Ke-lung, which can only be approached by
boats at high water.
A sailing vessel must use much caution in leaving this harbour during
the North-east monsoon, in consequence of the heavy sea rolling in, and
there being no anchorage outside. With a light wind short tacks should
be made, and the entrance of the harbour kept open until an offing is
gained.
CO AXi HARBOUR, the next inlet to the eastward of Ke-luug, is so called
from its proximity to the coal mines opened by the Chinese on the hill
sides of the southern shore of Quar-see-kau bay. It offers anchorage and
shelter for one or two vessels only, and should the mines ever be worked
by Europeans, the coal, which is of good quality, could be conveyed to
Harbour rock by means of a railroad along the west shore of the bay, at
the base of the hills. A short pier from the north side of the rock would
enable a vessel to lie alongside in 3 or 4 fathoms Avater, and receive or
discharge her cargo.
EAST COAST of FORMOSA. With the exception of Sau-o bay this
coast is without harbours, and deep water will be found close in to the
land. The mountains rise almost immediately from the sea ; their sides
in some places are cultivated and scattered houses seen.
This coast is not visited by the full strength of the North-east monsoon.
This probably results from the mountainous character of the country,
which prevents the breeze blowing home. Sailing vessels, however, ex-
periencing strong gales at 20 miles to the eastward, might feel cautious in
venturing in-shore. Nor is there any necessity to run to leeward ; but
if they should experience the breeze declining in strength, with less sea
on the western board, particularly between 9h. a.m. and 3h. p.m.. or up
I 2
292 FORMOSA ISLAND; EAST COAST. [CHAP. vm.
to sunset, they will find it advantageous to hug the coast as far as the
depth of 20 fathoms ; but within this limit caution is requisite, as sudden
loss of wind, attended by inconvenient swell,jnight be attended, if fol-
lowed by calm, with imminent danger.
STEEP ISLAND,* lying S.S.W. 11 miles from the north-east extreme
of Formosa, is inhabited by Chinese, and cultivated in terraces to its
summit, which is a sharp conical peak about 1,200 feet above the sea.
At the east end of the island there is another peak. 800 feet high, which
falls abruptly and overhangs the sea. The Inflexible passed between
this island and the coast, but had no soundings with 40 fathoms line.
JCALEEWAN RIVER. At 10 miles S.W. l S. of Steep island is the
entrance to the Kaleewan river, the waters of which irrigate a fertile plain,
about 13 miles long and 6 broad. At the time of the Inflexible 's visit
there were only 3 feet on the bar at low water, the rise of tide being
from 2 to 3 feet. The surf broke heavily on the beach, and although there
was an occasional break across the entrance, the vessel's gig entered in the
wake of a junk without inconvenience ; in going out, however, Avith the
wind blowing on the shore, two seas broke into the boat, and nearly
swamped her. The junks, with their high bulwarks and great buoyancy,
enter with comparative ease, the crews poling them across with bamboos.
The general direction of the river is S.W. The entrance is about
a quarter of a mile wide, but just within it narrows to 200 yards. At
4 miles up it is only 50 yards wide, and thus far it has a general depth
of 5 to 6 feet, clear fresh water. At 7 miles from the entrance the
depth is 3 to 4 feet, but the river was scarcely broad enough to allow
the use of the boat's oars.
The banks and country on either side of the river were everywhere
under cultivation, principally with rice, Indian corn, and millet ; sugar
cane also in small quantities. The inhabitants, composed of domesticated
aborigines and Chinese, of the different villages scattered along the banks,
behaved with great civility. The aborigines are of a clear olive com-
plexion, and in feature resemble the Malay. They are a much finer
looking race than the Chinese, who have largely intermarried with them.
They live in harmony with each other, both having the same dread of the
Chiukwaa or " raw " savage of the mountains. The population of the
plain is about 10,000.
SATT-O BAT, the south point of which is in lat. 24 36' N., long.
121 53' E., will be found an excellent place of shelter for vessels
* The description from Steep island to Black Rock bay is by Mr. W. Blackney,
H.M.S. Inflexible, 1858.
CHAP, vm.] STEEP ISLAND. SAU-O BAY. 2Q3
working up on the east coast of Formosa against the North-east monsoon.
The bay is about three-quarters of a mile wide at entrance, and a mile
deep, and in it are two small inlets ; that in the south-west corner is a
sheltered nook called Lam-hong-ho bay, which is said to have 5 fathoms
water in it, and where two or three ships might lie moored, secured from
all winds ; that in the north-east corner is named Pak-hong-ho bay, in
which there is good anchorage in 5 fathoms sheltered from all winds,
except those from South to S.E., which seldom blow.*
The westernmost and largest rock of the Sau-o reef is 70 feet above
low water, and lies N.E. 1-| miles from the south point of Sau-o bay,
and E. by S. two-thirds of a mile from the north point. Two other
smaller rocks bear E.N.E. 3 cables from it : the space between having
rocks awash and others just above water, generally breaking.
To the north-west of the Sau-o reef and N.E. from the north point of
the bay are rocks awash, generally breaking, a quarter of a mile in extent
N. W. and S.E. There was no opportunity of examining these dangers,
but to all appearance the ground was foul from the Sau-o reef to the
north point.
The Breakwater reef lies nearly in the centre of Sau-o bay, and
parts of it are uncovered and others are awash. The reef is 1^- cables
in extent, N.E. and S.W., and there is a conical rock 15 feet high rising
from its north-east extreme.
Supplies. The natives in this bay are mostly Chinese fishermen,
several domesticated aborigines living with them. Fresh supplies could
not be obtained except in small quantities ; but'if the bay is occasionally
resorted to, it would no doubt cause a little traffic between the villagers
on the Kaleewan river and those of Sau-o.
ANCHORAGE The Inflexible first anchored in the outer part of Sau-o
bay in 13 fathoms, with the south point bearing South, and the conical
rock on Breakwater reef W.N.W. ; this, however, would be an unsafe
position in easterly winds, although the holding ground is good, black
sand and mud. She then shifted her berth to a safe anchorage in from
5 to 6 fathoms water, inside Breakwater reef, with the conical rock
bearing East, distant about a quarter of a mile.
TIDES. The streams are weak in Sau-o bay. The flood sets in a
N.N.E. direction along the coast, the ebb S.S.W., about a knot an hour.
It is high water, full and change, at about 10h., and the rise is 3 to
4 feet.
DIRECTIONS When approaching Sau-o bay from the northward, pass
* See Plan of Sau-o Bay ; scale, m = 1-3 inches, on Chart of Formosa Island,
No. 1,968.
294 FORMOSA ISLAND ; EAST COAST. [CHAP. vni.
half a mile to the eastward of the Sau-o reef, the highest rocks on which
may be seen 8 or 10 miles off in clear weather, then haul up West for the
anchorage. From the south-east the approach is quite clear, and the
points of the hay may be passed at a cable distance. The passage between
Breakwater reef and Rugged point, which lies S. by E. 3 cables from it,
is clear, and the depth 5^ fathoms in mid-channel.
The soundings in the outer part of the bay increase quickly seaward to
17 and 20 fathoms, and decrease gradually towards the beach. The north-
west corner of the bay is rocky.
CHOCX-E-D AY. Dome point, 650 feet high, is 3 miles south of Sau-o
bay, and from thence to Chock-e-day, in lat. 24 6^' N., the coast is the
boldest and most precipitous that can be conceived, the mountains rising
almost perpendicularly from the water's edge to the height of 7,000 feet.
No soundings with 70 fathoms at from 1 to 1-^ miles off shore. The in-
habitants of Chock-e-day village were communicated with, but the high
surf prevented landing. The aborigines were nearly naked, and used
threatening gestures, brandishing their long knives and spears. A few
Chinese were among them, and appeared much afraid that the natives
would be injured, in which case they said their lives would be taken in
revenge. The river marked on the chart in this latitude was not seen.
At a mile off shore there was no bottom with 115 fathoms of line.
BLACK ROCK BAY. H.M.S. Plover anchored in this bay in lat.
23 8' N., long. 121 24' E., and rode out a S.W. gale ; but the bottom
is uneven and rocky, the vessel swinging from 13 to 22 fathoms, and the
anchorage by no means to be recommended.
With the centre of the group of rocks (120 feet high) in this bay
bearing S.W. by S., 2 miles, the depth was 29 fathoms, black sand ; the
next cast to seaward, no bottom with 70 fathoms.
The east coast of Formosa, north of Black Rock bay, is rugged and
rocky. The lower slopes of the hills are covered witli grass ; behind the
hills the mountains rise to the height of 5,000 and 6,000 feet above
the sea, and are clothed with dense forests.
SAIVTASATTA ISLAND by Collinson is in lat. 22 41' K, long.
121 28' E., and lies N. by W. W. about 34 miles from Botel-tobago
sima, page 278. Its north extreme is described as being a long, low
point, with a double hillock on it, and a pinnacle rock lying off it ;
the south point falls abruptly. The island, when visited by Capt. Belcher
in H.M.S. Samarang, June 1845, had a population of about 150 persons,
living in a village concealed within a bamboo hedge skirting the sea.
It appeared to be under cultivation, chiefly rice ; and the village valley
CHAP, viii.] CHOCK-E-DAY. PINNACLE GROUP.
was laid out in gardens, producing maize, cucumbers, cabbage, and
customary Chinese produce. It will be prudent to avoid the lee side of
the island, as calms, eddies, and variables are likely to cause inconvenient
HARP ISLAND. The supposed position of this island is lat. 23 45' N.,
long. 122 4' E. Lieutenant Boyle, of the U.S. Navy, in 1853, reports
having seen a volcano in a violent state of eruption, distant about 10
miles from the land, in lat. 24 N., long. 121 50' E.
PINNACLE, CRAIG, and AGiNcouRT ISLANDS are three islets
lying to the north-eastward of the north end of Formosa. They have
often been sighted by passing vessels, but as yet no description has been
given of them ; their positions are as follows ; Pinnacle, lat. 25 27' N.,
long. 121 58' E. ; Craig, 25 29' N., 122 9' E. ; and Agincourt,
25 38' N., 122 8' E.
HOA-PIN-SU, PINNACLE, and TT-A-TTSTT ISLANDS. This gl'OUp
forms a triangle, of which the hypothenuse, or distance between Hoa-
pin-su and Tia-a-usu, extends about 15 miles, and that between Hoa-pin-su
and the southern Pinnacle island about 2 miles. Within this space are
several reefs ; and although a safe channel exists between Hoa-pin-su and
the Pinnacle islands, it ought not (on account of the strength of the tides
destroying the steerage) to be attempted by sailing vessels if it can be
avoided.*
The extreme height of Hoa-pin-su is 1,181 feet, the island apparently
being cut away vertically at this elevation, on the southern side, in a
W.N.W. direction ; the remaining portion sloping to the eastward, where
the inclination furnished copious rills of excellent water. That this
supply is not casual is proved by the existence of fresh-water fish found
in most of the natural cisterns, which are connected almost to the sea,
and abound in weeds which shelter them. The north face of the island
is in lat. 25 47' 7" N., long. 123 30 E. There are no traces of
inhabitants, indeed the soil is insufficient for the maintenance of half a
dozen persons.
The Pinnacle group, which is connected by a reef and bank of soundings
with Hoa-pin-su, allowing a channel of about 12 fathoms between it and
the channel rock, presents the appearance of an upheaved and subse-
quently ruptured mass of compact gray columnar basalt, rising suddenly
into needle-shaped pinnacles, which are apparently ready for disintegration
* See Chart of the Islands between Formosa and Japan, -with the adjacent Coast of
China, No. 2,412 ; scale, d = 3 inches.
2Q6 MEIACO-SIMA GROUP. [CHAP. vni.
by the first disturbing cause, either gales of wind or earthquake. On the
summits of some of the flat rocks long grass was found, but no shrubs
or trees. The rocks were everywhere whitened by the dung of marine
birds.
Ti-a-usu, bearing N.E. northerly 15 miles from Hoa-pin-su, appears
to be composed of huge boulders of a greenish porphyritic stone. The
capping of this island, from about 60 feet to its summit, which is about
600 feet above the level of the sea, is covered with a loose brushwood, but
no trees of any size.
RAX.EIGH ROCK, iii about lat. 25 57' N., long. 124 11' E., rises
abruptly from a reef to a height of 90 feet above the sea, and is
perpendicular on all sides, covering an area of probably 60 feet in diameter,
and appearing in the distance as a junk under sail. Captain Belcher
states that the weather would not allow him to fix its position, but that as
he found it lying upon the computed bearing, as given in the charts, from
Ti-a-usu, its position cannot be much, if at all, in error.
MEIACO-SIMA GROUP.
This group forms the westernmost portion of a chain of islands
extending in an easterly and a north-easterly direction from Formosa to
the southern extremity of the Japan islands.
It lies between the parallels of 24 0' and 25 6' N., and the meridians
of 122 55' and 125 30' E., and is divided into two divisions.
The Pa-chung-san or western division, consists of ten distinct islands,
of which five only are at all mountainous ; the remainder are flat, like
the coral islands in the Pacific, and similarly belted with reefs, which
connect them into a distinct group. Chung-chi is a high uninhabited
mass of rocks ; and to the W.N.W. of it is Kumi island, which is con-
spicuous by the peculiar sharpness of its lofty peak, 770 feet high, and
table base."
KUZVZI zsiiAND is composed of coralline limestone, all its ranges are
capped with trees and brushwood, but excepting the pine fir, which con-
tains a great portion of resin, none attain any size. There are four
villages on the island, one on the west, and two on the north side, one of
which is inland, in a basin-shaped valley. The principal town and port
is on the north, in which were several junks of about 50 tons riding at
anchor ; but the entrance from the sea is so narrow and shallow, that
* See Plan of the Mciaco-sima group, No. 2,105 ; scale, m = half an inch,
CHAP, vm.] KUMI ISLAND. - PA-CHUNG-SAN ISLAND. 297
ingress and egress can only be effected at spring tides and with very
smooth water. Temporary anchorage, in fine weather, may be found on
a sandy ledge to the northward of the town.*
-S AN and PA-CHITNG-SAN ISLANDS afford several com-
modious harbours, and are, with good charts, quite safe of approach. Port
Haddington, on the western side of the latter island, would shelter a
large fleet, but it abounds with coral patches, rising suddenly from 10 or
15 fathoms almost to the surface. Except on the northern side of Ku-
kien-san and the latter port, watering would be found very difficult, as
the reefs extend a great distance from the mouths of the streams. Sey-
mour bay, at the south-west angle of Ku-kien-san, must also be excepted,
for there a fine stream enters the sea in deep water, and a vessel might be
moored sufficiently close to lead the hoses from Hearle's pumps into her,
without the intervention of boats and casks.
With respect to the various harbours of Ku-kien-san, there are two
or three adapted for shelter for small vessels, or even those drawing 18
feet, where a refit might be accomplished in still water in any monsoon, or
where steam vessels might lie safely for the pui'pose of obtaining wood ;
and there are two other open bays, well sheltered in the North-east mon-
soon, admirably adapted for watering ; but there is not any other induce-
ment to visit this island ; all the dangers are well marked by the coral
fringe which extends about a cable's length from the outline.
Of the dangers on the northern side of this group, it would not be
prudent that any vessel should run the risk of being hampered by the
shoals, and therefore should not come farther eastward, when beating up for
Chusan, than to sight Chung-chi island. The currents as these islands
arc approached press more southerly and easterly than those that are ex-
perienced on the coast of Formosa, and stronger breezes prevail as a vessel
advances easterly. Indeed it blows incessantly at this western group.
TAI-PZN-SAN ISLAND. The islands composing the Tai-pin-san
or eastern division, are Tai-pin-san, Yer-ra-bu, Ku-ree-mah, Y-ki-mah,
and Ohotake ; the two islets, Mitsuna and Tarara,* between Tai-pin-san
and Pa-ohung-san, are said to be a continuation of the reefs which extend
* A dangerous shoal is reported as extending E. b. N. and "W. b. S. 3 miles, and bear-
ing N.W. b. W., distant about 10 miles from Kumi. Horsburgh, vol. 2, seventh edition,
pnge 605.
On the evening of the 16th November, with Kumi island bearing E. b. S. 3 leagues, saw
heavy breakers ahead and on the lee bow, apparently on a dangerous shoal, extending
E. b. S. and W. b. N., and bearing from Kumi, S.W. b, W. 3| leagues distant. Having
dark cloudy weather with rain, and a heavy sea running, it was too late to send a
boat to sound ; but the breakers were segn continually from 4.30 p.m. until 6 p.m.
Nautical Magazine for 1844, p. 244.
298 MEIACO-SIMA GROUP. [CHAP. vui.
to the N.E., North, and N.W. of Tai-pin-san, and on which H.M.S.
Providence was lost in 1797. Captain Belcher, in H.M.S. Samarang,
looked in vain for Ykima island.
Tai-pin-san island is surrounded by an extensive chain of coral
reefs, upon which the islands of Ku-ree-mah, Yer-ra-bu, Y-ki-mah, and
Ohotake respectively are situated to the West, N.W., North, and N.E.
The reefs do not extend far to the westward from Ku-ree-mah, unless in
patches unconnected with the main belt. Off Yer-ra-bu they extend 3 or
4 miles, but close towards its north-western angle, where a deep water
channel admits vessels within the belt up to Ohotake island and into the
main harbour of Ta'i-pin-san. The reefs again spit out on the south-
west angle of Y-ki-mah, and sweep northerly, as far as the eye can roach
(from 100 feet elevation), round to east in continuous lines of breakers,
edging in towards the south-east extremity of Ohotake. A high patch of
rocks lies on the north-east angle of this outer belt, probably 10 miles from
the northern point of Tai-pin-san.
Safe anchorage during the south-west monsoon might be found inside
the reefs of Ohotake island, and also safe in the other monsoon ; but
the passage in or out at that season would be attended with risk, as sudden
squalls, gales, and numerous patches beset the whole eastern side of Ta'i-
pin-san. The southern coast line, from the south-east breaker patch to
the south-west anchorage, does not offer many dangers if a tolerable look-
out be observed. The reefs do not extend more than half a cable from
the shore, and generally less.
There can be no inducements for any vessel to visit Tai-pin-san ;
neither wood, water, nor any other necessaries could be procured. A few
pigs, fowls, and sweet potatoes might be obtained for cabin use, but
this would hardly warrant the risk and detention on such a dangerous
coast.
DIRECTIONS *Great caution is requisite in approaching the Meiaco-
sima group from the north-east, east, or south, particularly with fresh
breezes, and in the absence of the sun, by the aid of which reefs below
water can be detected. They are from their greenisli hue, being covered
by seaweed, less distinct than at other places, and therefore, where they
are not marked on the chart, it must not be presumed that the space is free
from danger ; the lead will not ;iflfbrd timely warning.
Approaching the group from the south-west, the island of Ku-kien-san
from its great height will be first distinguished, presenting a round backed
summit closely clad with trees ; knolls occur, elevated 2,000 feet above
the sea, but as they seldom present the same appearance owing to those
* Capt. E. Belcher, H.M.S. Samarang, December 1844.
CHAP, vni.] TAI-PIN-SAN ISLAND ; BROUGHTON BAY. 299
nearer the coast eclipsing them, their accurate measurement could not be
obtained ; Adam peak, which may be noticed on the south-eastern outline,
was determined to be 1,200 feet. As the island is neared, the high rocky
basaltic islet of Chung-chi will show out when the western limit of Ku-
kien-san bears N.E. b. N., and working for this islet no danger can be
feared, and should night befall, all the space on the north-west of Ku-
kien-san up to the island of Kumi is safe.
The Samarang entered the group from the westward, passing within
2 miles of the southern reefs or breakers of Hasyokan or Sandy island,
and standing on close hauled to the eastward, intending to make Ykima,
and beat up from it to Ta'i-pin-san. On the morning following, not seeing
Ykima (which is supposed not to exist), and the weather very boisterous,
she stood on to the westward to get under the lee of Pa-chung-san, and
endeavour to reach some place of shelter. On nearing the latter island,
she ran down the eastern and southern side, reaching the south-western
extremity of its reef about 4 p.m.
Here was a barrier of breakers as far as the eye could reach from the
mast-head, and apparently connecting Hasyokan island with the group of
larger islands. An opening, however, was found into the reef, and after
due examination the vessel was shot up into 13 fathoms, into Broughton
bay, and warped into a snug position, where she was moored with just
sufficient room to swing, the depths up to the coral ledges varying from
13 to 7 fathoms.
BROUGHTON BAT. The only directions which will assist the seaman
in finding this snug little anchorage (safe only, however, during the
North-east monsoon) are as follows :
Approaching from the westward, as Chungchi is neared, Hasyokan or
Sandy island will soon be seen, and avoiding the space included northerly
of a line between Chungchi and it, a vessel may safely stand on, passing
within one mile of the southern limit of Hasyokan, and work for the
south-west angle of Pa-chung-san, avoiding the reefs, which extend from
it hi a direct line N.E. and S.W. to Hasyokan. A high rock, named
South rock, will point out the outer reefs of Pa-chung-san. The danger?
between it and Pa-chung-san must be avoided by eye, the shoals being
visible in 5 or 6 fathoms, and breaking upon those of 2 and 3 fathoms.
The opening of the reef is in the heart of a deep indentation, just to
the northward of the low south-west point of the island, and it has
apparently a centre bar. The right-hand opening is the proper one.
From the eastward there are no dangers which are not clearly visible.
After making the land, edge along the southern and eastern breakers
until the abrupt turn of the breaker line is seen, at which moment the
extreme south-west point of the bay will open. The breakers have
300 MEIACO-SIMA GROUP. [CHAP. vin.
regular soundiugs off them, but the course in will probably lead in 7,
8, or 9 fathoms, deepening to 14 or 15 off the inlet. As the breeze generally
blows out, it will be advisable to send a boat to find clear ground off the
opening, and shoot up and anchor. The vessel may then be warped
in. But if merely intending a cursory visit, the outer anchorage appears
good.
At Broughton bay, neither wood nor water can conveniently be pro-
cured ; and the only reason for noticing it is, that a port of refuge with
still water, in case of disaster, may be found on this side of the island ;
when a disabled vessel could not beat round to the more secure harbour
of Port Haddington, on the northern side.
PORT HADDXNGTON. No safe anchorage is to be met with between
Broughton bay and Port Haddington, which is on the west side of Pa-
chung-san ; although during the south-west monsoon there are several
good bays on the northern side of the island, -where anchorage might be
found, but certainly not adapted for refit.*
When rounding the north-eastern extremity of Pa-chung-san the two
low coral islets of Mitsuna and Tarrara ought to be avoided at night, but
the dangers by day are clearly denoted by breakers. To the north-
ward of these islets the ground is foul, and the Samarang was com-
pelled to tack to the westward in 7 fathoms, at least 10 miles north of
them.
A vessel bound from Broughton bay to Port Haddington, after round-
ing the north-east end of the Pa-chung-san breakers, and running to the
westward the length of the island, should haul close round the north-
west angle, and edge along southerly within about a mile of the breakers.
The port will then open out, into which, with the prevailing breeze
of the North-east monsoon, it will be necessary to beat. Off Hamilton
point, the north point of the port, will be seen a remarkable little
rocky hummock upon which was left a very large pile of stones. The
bottom, for more than a mile off* the point, is rocky and dangerous ; but
as all the dangers of this port are visible from aloft, there is no risk
with a proper look-out. The inner parts of the port have numerous
shoals, but there is still abundance of excellent anchorage without, and
where the vessel will be land-locked. The Samarang anchored about a
mile or less within Hamilton point, in 10 fathoms, clear bottom.
From the westward Port Haddington may be sought and reached more
expeditiously by working up on the north-west side of Ku-kien-san, round-
* There is a passage from Port Haddington into Bronghton bay, -which was used by
H.M. Ships Lilly and Contest, but abounding with coral reefs. Commander J. W. Spencer,
H. M. Sloop Contest, 1852.
CHAP. Tin.] PORT HADDINGTON ; DIRECTIONS. 301
ing Isaac island and running down off the danger line from Melros point
round the reef which extends off Hamilton point one mile, and shoot into
15 fathoms. The chart exhibits several awkward patches, but a vessel
which works decently can thread her way between them, if the sun be
bright, as all the shoals may easily be traced from aloft.
Supplies. A convenient watering-place was established by sinking a
cask and suspending the suction hose of Hearle's pump over it, so as to
prevent the sand from being sucked in. The stream from above was regu-
lated by dams to ensure not more than a sufficient supply, by which
means the water obtained was beautifully clear. Here wood is abundant,
and the position is farther preferable by being so far from the villages as
to prevent the authorities from feeling alarmed. During the North-east
monsoon this is a most convenient port ; it is land-locked it is true, but
there is a long fetch for the sea with a S.W. gale, and in that season
Typhoons are said to be very violent about this region. Sufficient fire-
wood was cut at the beach (of Tamanu) to fill the ship, and trees were
obtained of pine and other woods adapted for plank.
PORT HABDITJGTOJXT to TAX-PHST-SAN. After quitting Port Had-
dington, the Samarang beat to the northward, and endeavoured to
weather Mitsuna and Tarara. She had passed the breakers leaving them
about 5 miles under her lee, when finding the depths decrease to 7 fathoms
the vessel was immediately tacked. Capt. Belcher strongly suspects that
extensive banks or ledges of coral connect these islands (northerly) with
Ta'i-pin-san ; and a good reason for this offers in the fact of their being
included by the natives in the Tai-pin-san group when they are much
closer, by half the distance to Pa-chung-san.
Upon nearing Tai-pin-san, and having tacked twice, rather close to
two off lying patches, and obtaining soundings with 15 fathoms, a boat
was sent ahead. Upon a given signal, for " danger discovered," the
anchor was let go, and the vessel found to be in a secure berth in 12
fathoms, the boat being on the reefs. This turned out to be the only
anchorage at Tai-pin-san. It is merely an indentation formed by the
reefs connecting the western island Ku-ree-mah with Ta'i-pin-san, and is
very unsafe, a very heavy sea tumbling in with a southerly wind. The
observatory at Ta'i-pin-san (at the most convenient landing-place, within
the reefs, and the last rocky point towards the long sandy bay) is in
lat. 24 43' 35" N., long. 125 17' 49" E.
LU-CHU OR LIU-KIU ISLANDS.
The Lu-chu or Liu-kiu islands, to the north-east of the Meiaco-sima
group, consist of one large island, Okinawa sima, surrounded by smaller
302 LU-CHU ISLANDS. [CHAP. vm.
ones. Okinawa sima, or Great Lu-chu, is of considerable size and
well-inhabited ; it is about 56 miles long in a N.E. and S.W. direction,
and preserves a tolerably uniform breadth of about 10 or 12 miles. The
north end is high and bold, with wood on the top of the hills. The
north-east coast is also abrupt but quite barren, and the north-west side
is rugged and bare. The south-east side is low, with very little appear-
ance of cultivation. The south, south-west, and western coasts, particu-
larly the two former, are of moderate height, and present a scene of
great fertility and high cultivation, and here the mass of the population
reside.
ISLANDS. To the westward of the south end of Okinawa
sima are the Kerama islands, the Amakirrima of Basil Hall in 1816,
and Kera sima of Siebold. The Kerama group consists of four islands,
Zamarni, Accar or Yakai of Siebold, Ghirum, and Twkaschi, of which all
but the last are very small.
Captain Mathison, of H.M.S. Mariner, in 1849, states, "that in the
chart of the Kerama islands there are six islands marked with apparently
clear passages between them ; whereas, as well as could be judged, there
must be a greater number, and all the spaces between them appear filled
with reefs and breakers. There is a shoal lying between the east Kerama
island and the south-east end of Okinawa sima, the breakers on which
were clearly visible. Reefs also extend to the eastward about o or 6
miles from the north-east point of Kume sima, the island lying to the
W.N. W., on one of which the ship Elizabeth and Henry was lost."
The small coral islands lying off Napha are called Tzee (Kei of
Siebold), and by Captain Basil Hall, Reef islands.
ZTAPHA-XXANG ROAD. Napha, on the south-west side of Okinawa
sima, is the principal sea-port of the island, and perhaps the only one
possessing the privileges of a port of entry. The inner, or Junk har-
bour, carries a depth of 2 to 3 fathoms, and though small, is sufficiently
large to accommodate with ease the fifteen or twenty moderate sized junks
which are usually found moored in it. These are mostly Japanese, with a
few Chinese and some small coasting craft, which seem to carry on a
sluggish trade Avith the neighbouring islands. The outer harbour, or
Xapha-kiaug road, is protected to the eastward and southward by the
main land, whilst in other directions it is surrounded by merely a chain of
coral reefs, which answer as a tolerable breakwater against a swell from
the northward or westward, but afford, of course, no shelter from the wind.
The holding ground, is ,so good, however, that a well-found vessel could
here ride out almost any gale in safety.*
* See Plan of Napha-kiang Road, with views, No. 990 ; scale, m 3 inches.
CHAP, vin.] KERAMA ISLANDS. NAPHA-KIANG ROAD. 303
Abbey point, forming the south extremity of the road, may be known
by its ragged outline, and by a small wooded eminence, called Wood hill,
about 1^ miles south of it. The mainland here falls back and forms a
bay, which is sheltered by coral reefs extending to the northward from
Abbey point ; they are, however, disconnected, and between them and
the point there is a channel sufficiently deep for the largest ship.
Nearly in the centre of this channel, outside withal, there is a coral
bank named Blossom reef, having a good passage on either side of
it. The south channel, between it and Abbey point, should be adopted
with southerly winds and flood tides, and the Oar channel, between
Blossom and Oar reefs, with the reverse. A reef extends from Abbey
point to the south-west, and also to the northward. When off Abbey
point, Kumi head, a rocky headland, will be seen about 1^ miles north of
the town; and upon the ridge of high land beyond it are three hummocks
to the left of a cluster of trees. In the distance, a little to the left of these,
is Mount Onnodake, in lat. 26 27' N. A remarkable rock, which from its
form has been named Capstan head, will next appear ; and then to the
northward of the town a rocky head, with a house upon its summit, called
False Capstan head. At the back of Capstan head is Sheudi hill, upon
which the upper town, the capital of Lu-chu, is built.
Water. An abundance of water can always be obtained at the fountains
in Junk river, where there is excellent landing for boats. There is a
good spring near the tombs, at Kumi bluff ; but unless the water is quite
smooth the landing is impracticable, and under any circumstances it is
inconvenient from the want of sufficient depth, except at high tide.
Buoys.* A black spar-buoy is moored on Blossom reef half way be-
tween its eastern and western extreme ; a red spar-buoy on the point
of reef to the W.N.W. of Abbey point ; and a white spar-buoy on the
south-east extremity of Oar reef. Flags of corresponding colours are
attached to all these buoys, and they afford good guides for the South and
Oar channels. There are two large stakes on the reefs to the eastward
and westward of the North channel, planted there by the natives, this
being the channel mostly used by junks trading to the northward.
DIRECTION'S. Vessels bound from Hong Kong to Great Lu-chu
island during the South-west monsoon, should pass through the Formosa
channel, giving Pinnacle, Craig, and Agincourt islands, off the north
end of Formosa, a safe berth, as there are said to be reefs among them,
and the currents are strong and variable in their vicinity. From thence
a course should be shaped to pass to the northward of Hoa-pin-su, Ti-a-usu,
* The spar-buoys may be displaced, or entirely removed by the heave of the sea, and
should, therefore, not be implicitly relied on.
304 LU-CHU ISLANDS. [CHAT-. VIIT.
and the Raleigh rock, after which haul to the eastward to sight Kume sima,
and pass either to the northward or southward of it, Kurama, and the
small islet near the latter, but not between them, as reefs are said to have
been seen there. If to the northward give a good berth* to Tu sima, a
small rocky islet a quarter of a mile in extent, with a reef projecting
1^ miles to the northward and about 4 cables in other directions ; it is
about 80 feet high, much broken, and lies N. by E. g- E. 13^ miles from
the northernmost peak of Kume sima, and W. \ N. from the centre of
Agenhu. Pass to the southward of Agenhu, which will be readily
recognized by its bold south point and wedge-shaped appearance. The
Kerama group will be seen to the S.S.E., Lu-chu visible on the eastern
horizon, and in a short time the Reef islets will heave in sight to the
southward and eastward ; these latter are low and sandy, slightly covered
with vegetation, and surrounded by coral reefs.
During the North-east monsoon, round the south end of Formosa, and
with the strong current setting to the northward, beat along its eastern
shore to the northward and eastward. Pass between Hoa-pin-su and the
Meiaco-sima group, and either to the northward or southward of Kume
sima ; if to the southward, a vessel may hug the northern shores of the
Kerama islands, as it is believed there are no hidden dangers near them.
During the Typhoon season, however, it is advisable to pass to the south-
ward of Formosa and the Meiaco-sima group, in order to have plenty of
sea room, in the event of encountering one of these storms. The passage
to the southward of the Kerama islands is clear with the exception of the
Heber reef and Sandy island ; the former is said to be a rock 6 feet out of
water surrounded by reefs ; the latter to be just above water ; and lying
respectively W. by S. f S. and W. by N. \ N. 7 miles from the south point
of Great Lu-chu.
Vessels bound into the road from the southward may pass close round
Cape Yakimu, the south extreme of Great Lu-chu, and sail along the
western coast at the distance of 3 or 3^ miles, leaving Heber reef and
Sandy island to the westward.
Through SOITTH CHATONEXi. There are three passages leading into
Napha-kiang road, named the North, the Oar, and the South channel.
To sail into trie road by the South channel, between Blossom and Abbey
reefs, having wtll opened Capstan head, haul towards Abbey reef, and
bring the right-hand hummock about half a point eastward of Kumi head;
this mark will lead through the South channel, in about 7 fathoms, over
the tail of the Blossom reef. A vessel may now round Abbey reef toler-
ably close, and steer for the anchorage in 7 fathoms, about half a mile to
* Lieutenant II. K. Stevens, U.S. Surveying Expedition, 185".
CHAP, viii.] NAl'IIA-KIANG ROAD. 305
the N.N.W. of False Capstan head.* Should the wind veer to the east-
ward in the passage between Blossom reef and Abbey point, with the
above mark on, do not stand to the northward, unless the outer cluster of
trees near the extremity of Wood hill is in line with, or open to the west-
ward of Table hill, a square rocky headland to the southward of it. This
mark clears also the tongue of Oar reef.
The best, anchorage is in Barnpool, at the north-east part of the road,
in 7 fathoms water, where a vessel may ride with great security. The
outer anchorage would be dangerous with strong westerly gales. H.M.S.
Blossom anchored there in 14 fathoms, muddy bottom, Abbey bluff bear-
ing S.W. S., and Capstan head E. by S. S.
The entrance to Barnpool is between Barn head and the reef off
Capstan head. In entering, do not approach Barn head nearer than to
bring the north edge of Hole rock in one with the before-mentioned flat
clump of trees on the hill south of Sheudi, until the point of the burying
ground (Cemetery point) is seen just clear of False Capstan head. An-
chorage may be taken in any part of Barnpool.
The following directions for the South channel are by Lieutenant
S. Bent of the United States American expedition to Japan, to
accompany a plan of Napha-kiang road surveyed by that officer in
1853. and on which are marked two patches of only 2^ and ] fathoms
water ; the former named Lexington reef lying W. ^ S., lj miles from
Abbey point ; and the latter of 1^ fathoms, W.S.W. If miles from the
point :
The clearest approach to Napha-kiang road from the westward is by
passing northward of the Kerama islands and sighting Agenhu island,
which will be recognized by its wedge-shaped appearance ; from thence
steer a S.E. course for the road, passing on either side of the Reef
islands ; being careful, however, not to approach them too near on the
western and southern sides, as the reefs below water in these directions
are said to be more extensive than is shown on the chart.
After clearing the Reef islands, steer for Wood hill on a S.S.E.
bearing until getting upon the line of bearing for the South channel.
This will lead well clear of the Blossom reef, yet not so far off but
* Care must be taken to avoid the Ingersoll patches, on which there is only a fathom
water. They are inserted in the Admiralty plan of Napha-Kiang road as discovered in
1837, and bear from Capstan head W. S., and from South fort N. b. W. J W. The
French survey of 1846 by the officers of La Sabine does not show these rocks, but three
patches having over them respectively 2, 4, and 4i- fathoms. From the 2-fathoms patch
Abbey point bears S.b. W.j|W., and False Capstan head E. by S. S. ; from the 4-fathoms
patch Capstan head bears S.F.. by E. 2R, and Abbey point S.W. f W. ; and from the
4i-fathoms patch Abbey point bears S.S.W.^W., and False Capstan head S.E. by E. f E.
[C.] U
306 LU-CHU ISLANDS. [CHAP. vin.
that the white tomb and clump of trees or bushes to the southward
of Kumi head can be easily distinguished. An E. by N. ^ N. course now
until Abbey point is in one with outer trees will clear S.W. rock, when
haul up for Kumi head, and select a berth about half a mile to the
northward and westward of False Capstan head. This channel, being
quite straight, is more desirable for a stranger entering the harbour than
the Oar channel, which, though wider, has the disadvantage of its being
necessary for a vessel to alter her course some four or five points, just
when she is in the midst of reefs which are nearly all below the surface
of the water.
Through OAR CHANNEL. If the wind be to the north-eastward
it will be advisable to beat through the Oar channel, in preference to
the South channel. To do this, bring False Capstan head in line with :i
flat cluster of trees on 4 the ridge to the right of the first gap south of
Sheudi. This will clear the north tongue of Blossom reef; but unless
Table hill be open eastward of Wood hill, do not stand to the south-
ward, but tack directly the water shoals to less than 12 fathoms, and
endeavour to enter with the marks on. Having passed to the N.E. of
Blossom reef, which will be known by Wood hill being seen to the right
of Table hill, stand towards Abbey point as close as convenient,
and on Hearing Oar reef take care of a tongue which extends to the
eastward of it and of the S.W. rock, and be careful to tack immediately
the outer trees of Wood point open with Abbey point. In entering at
either of the western channels, remember that the flood-tide sets to the
northward, over Blossom reef, and the ebb to the southward.
A good mark to run through this channel is to bring the centre of the
island in Junk harbour (known by the deep verdure of its vegetation) to
fill the gap between the forts at the entrance of that harbour, and steer a
S.E. ^ E. course, until Capstan head bears East, when haul up E.N.E.
and anchor as before directed.
Through NORTH CHANNEL The North channel into Napha-
kiang road is much contracted by a range of detached rocks extend-
ing out from the reef on the west side, and should not under ordinary
circumstances be attempted by a stranger ; as at high water the reefs are
.almost entirely covered, and it is difficult to judge of the vessel's exact
position unless familiar with the various localities and landmarks. To
enter by this channel, bring a remarkable notch in the southern range of
hills in line with a small hillock just eastward of False Capstan head,
and stand in with this mark bearing S. by E. ^ E. u,ntil Kumi head
1 tears E. ^ N., when open a little to the southward, so as to give the reef
to the eastward a berth, and select an anchorage.
CHAP, viii.] DEEP BAY. SUCO ISLAND. 307
Sidling from Napha during the North- east monsoon, it will be better to
pass round the south end of Great Lu-chu, in order to avoid beating
through the Montgomery group, of which there is no reliable survey; they
are said to consist of five itslands, surrounded by reefs. But with a
southerly wind and fine weather it will be to the advantage of a vessel
bound to the Bonin islands to pass round the north end of Great Lu-chu,
where she will feel the influence of the current, which will assist her to
the eastward.
TIDES. It is high Avater, full and change, in Napha-kiang road, at
6h. 30m., and the rise is from 5 to 7^ feet; but this was very irregular
during the Blossom's stay at this anchorage.
DEEP BAT* the observatory spot at the head of which is in lat.
26 35' 35" N., long. 127 59' 42" E. is formed on the western side of
Great Lu-chu island, and although open to the West and S.W. affords
good anchorage oif the town of Naguh at about half a mile from its head;
for winds from these quarters rarely blow home, and if they do they
never raise a sea, as the latter is broken by the great depth of the bay.
The country around the head of this bay is fertile and populous,
Motubu and Naguh being the largest towns. At the town of Oon-sah there
is a good ship and timber yard where junks are built; here also the natives
were found more affable and sociable than on any other part of the coast-
This part of Great Lu-chu (extending to beyond Nacosi on the opposite
coast) appears to be in a higli state of cultivation; rice and sweet potatoes
are the principal productions ; but on the northern side of the peninsula,
north of Deep bay, extensive fields of wheat were seen extending unin-
terruptedly for several miles. Cotton was observed also in many places,
but the growth was small and the yield poor. Peas, beans, radishes,
turnips, and sugar-cane were growing in considerable quantities, also
mustard and ginger. On the Natchijen mountains, 1,488 feet high,
cinnamon was growing wild, and there was also a fine growth of timber,
which furnishes most of the spars for the native junks; Nakazuni cove,
on the north side of the peninsula, being the principal depot, whence they
are transported to the other parts of the island.
suco or SETEX ISLAND, lying about a quarter of a mile from the
north-west coast of Great Lu-chu, to the northward of Deep bay, affords
excellent anchorage on its eastern side, between it and the coast, protected
from all winds, and wood, water, and fresh provisions can be easily pro-
cured. There is free egress to the northward and southward, and although
* Deep and Shah bays are from the sinveys of Lieutenants W. B. Whiting, and
A. Barbot, of the U.S. Ship Vandalia, 185-1.
U 2
308 LU-CHU ISLANDS. [CHAP. vin.
the anchorage appears open to the southward, yet it is well sheltered in
that direction by the reef extending S.S.E. nearly half a mile from the
south end of Suco, and by the southern shore of Deep bay.
PORT CUTTING, or Melville, is on the north-west part of Great
Lu-chu, and its entrance is between the eastern side of Km or Herbert
i*land and the western side of the reef which fronts the peninsula,
and which projects 5 or 6 miles to the westward, having a small islet near
its extremity. lye sima or Sugar-loaf island, lying about 12 miles to the
westward of the entrance, is a good guide for it, the island being low and
flat, with the exception of a sharp conical peak rising 561 feet above the
sea, at its eastern end.*
Water. Good water is to be obtained at the village of Onting.
DIRECTIONS. When bound to Port Onting from the westward,
passing to the northward of lye sima, an E.S.E. course will lead to the
entrance. It will be advisable to heave-to here, or anchor in 20 or 25
fathoms water, until boats or buoys can be placed along the edges of the
reefs bordering the channel; for without some such guides, it will be
difficult for a vessel of large draught to find her way in between the reefs,
which contract, in places, to within a cable's length of each other, and are
at all times covered.
In entering, steer for the western shore of Ku'i island until Hele rock is
in line with Double-topped mountain (a distant double-topped hill the
second highest of the range,) bearing S.E. ^ S. Steer in on this mark,
until Chimney rock bears S. E. ; then for Chimney rock until Rankin
point bears S.W. -^ W. ; then for that point until the port is entered,
when anchor, giving the vessel room to swing clear of the reef extending
northward of Rankin point, and she will be as snug as if lying in dock,
with good holding ground, completely land-locked, and sheltered almost
entirely from every wind.
TIDES. In Port Onting it is high water, full and change, at 6h. 35m.,
and the rise is about 8 feet.
SHAH BAY, at about 8 miles to the E.S.E. of Port Onting, is a
beautiful land-locked sheet of water, but the reef fronting the entrance
prevents its being accessible to vessels of larger size than the junks which
frequent it; within the entrance the water deepens to 12 and 8 fathoms,
the bottom being soft mud. On the southern shore of the bay was
found iron ore, mineral coal, and sulphur. The coal appeared of poor
* See 1'lan of Port Onting, with views, No. 2,436 ; scale, m = 3-4 inches.
CHAP, viii.] PORT ONTING. BARROW BAY.
quality and mixed with earth, but good coal might perhaps be found by
flicrcrimr.
u *&i fu o'
BARROW BAT is a deep inlet, bounded by shoals, near the middle of
the eastern side of Great Lu-chu island. The following description* is by
Lieutenant G. B. Balch, of the U.S. ship Plymouth:
" A reef, of coral formation and bold to approach, commences o miles
from the south point of Great Lu-chu, and extends in an unbroken
chain, outside all the small islands, as far as the north-east point of Ichey
island, with the exception of a narrow channel between the islet off the
north-east end of Kyoko or Kudaka island, and the island of Taking.
Ichey island forms the south-eastern point of Barrow bay, which is
useless for all purposes of navigation, being exposed to the east winds and
ocean swell. There is, however, secure anchorage in about 15 fathoms
water on the western sides of Ichey, and of Hanadi, the next islet to the
southward ; this anchorage is the only place of shelter on the eastern
coast of Great Lu-chu."
* From Nautical Remarks by the officers of the United States Expedition to Japan,
1854.
310
CHAPTER IX.
i
ISLANDS SOUTH-EAST, EAST, AND NORTH OF THE LU-CHU GROUP ;
AND OFF THE SOUTH-EAST COAST OF NIPON.
VARIATION in 1861. Borodino islands, 1 50' W. Ladrones islands, 2 40' E. Bonin
islands, 30' W. Islands off S.E. coast of Nipon, 2 30' W.
CAUTION. The mariner in navigating the space about to be described,
between Formosa and the Mariana and Bonin islands, should use extreme
caution in approaching the locality of many of the islands and shoals
marked on the chart, especially at night, or during dark and hazy weather,
for the existence, or at least the positions, assigned to some of them
appear to be very doubtful. They would seem to have been inserted
on the charts from the uncertain reckoning kept on board whaling
vessels, or others, which, from the very nature of their pursuits, cannot
be entitled to much confidence. Those only will be noticed whose
existence has been determined.
BORODINO ISLANDS. These two islands lie in a N.N.E. and S.S.E.
direction from each other, distant about 4 miles. The southernmost,
the centre of which is in lat. 25 52f N., long. 131 12' E., is the
largest, being about 3 miles in extent east and west ; it is low, of
coral formation, and covered with vegetation. A reef extends along
its southern shore, affording no visible harbour. The northernmost
island is also flat, but has a rise near the north end gradually sloping
towards the sea.
BISHOP ROCKS, in lat. 25 20' N., long. 131 15' E., were dis-
covered by Captain Bishop, in the ship Nautilus, in 1796, but they do
not appear to have been seen since.
RASA ISLAND. KENDRicx ISLAND. Rasa island, seen by the
Spanish frigate Magellan in 1815, and the French frigate La Cannoniere
in 1807. is in about lat. 24 27' N., long. 130 40' E., about 4 or 5 miles
long N.W. and S.E., low, covered with bushes, and surrounded with
rocks.
Kcndrick island is said to be in lat. 24 35' N., long. 134 00' E., and
to be low, and about 6 miles in length. It is very probable that Kendrick
may be identical with Rasa, but this cannot be decided without further
examination.
CHAP. ix. J BORODINO ISLANDS. MARIANA ISLANDS. 311
PARECE VELA or DOUGLAS REEF, discovered Sept. 1789, by
Captain Douglas, is in about lat. 20 31' N., long. 136 6' E. It is
described by Mr. Sproule, of the ship Maria* who partially examined
it in his boat, March 1848, as being a narrow perpendicular belt of
coral, enclosing an oblong lagoon of water, with heavy breakers rolling
over its north and north-east sides. The boat rowed under the lee of the
reef, its whole length, which is only 2 miles, and three-quarters of a mile
wide at one-third from the eastern point. Sharp heads of coral appeared
frequently through the surf, and one isolated rock, about 12 feet high and
15 feet long, rose from the smooth water lagoon near its western extreme.
The rock, when first seen from the vessel, about 3 miles off, appeared like
a boat's tanned lug-sail. The reef, from its being visible only a short
distance off, should be carefully approached, especially in dark and blowing
weather.
LINDSAY ISLAND, discovered by Mr. Lindsay, of the British schooner
Amelia, December 1848, is in lat. 19 20' N., long. 141 15' E. It ap-
peared about 40 feet high, 4 miles long, and very barren.
IVIARZANA or LADRONES ISLANDS. This archipelago is composed
of a chain of volcanic islands, which extend in a north and south direction
for a space of 420 miles. Magalhaens, the first circumnavigator, disco
vered them on March 6th, 1521, but he only saw Seypan, Tiuian, and
Guam. The Spaniards named them Ladrones, from the great propensity
to thieving evinced by the natives. In 1668 they received the name of
Mariana, in honour of the widow of the King of Spain, Philip IV., Maria
Anna of Austria.
GTTAM or Guajan island, f the southernmost apd principal of the
Mariana group, is about 29 miles long N.E. by N. and S.W. by S., and
3 miles broad at its narrowest part, which is near the centre. It is
bordered throughout a greater part of its circuit with a chain of reefs
which ai'e uncovered at times. It contained, * in 1858,| a population of
about 4,000 persons, and there was a plentiful supply of water and fresh
provisions.
At a distance this island will appear flat and even. There is no anchor-
age on its east side, which is bordered with steep rocks, against which the
sea dashes with great violence. The west side of the island is rather low,
and full of small sandy bays, divided with as many rocky points. The
soil is reddish, dry, and indifferently fruitful. The produce is chiefly rice,
* Nautical Magazine, 1848, p. 242.
f Voyage of the French corvette Uranie, by M. Louis de Freycinet, 1819,
J Captain N. Vansittart, H.M.S. Magicienne, July 1858.
312 ISLANDS SOUTH-EAST OF THE LU-CHU GROUP. [ciur. ix.
pine-apples, water melons, oranges uiul limes, cocoa-nuts, and bread-fruit.
The cocoa-nut treps grow on the western side in great groves 3 or 4
miles long and 1 or 2 miles broad. '
PAGO HARBOUR. The eastern coast of Guam, as far southward as
Tarofofo harbour, in hit. 13 18' 12" N., affords no shelter to the navi-
gator, and therefore ought to be avoided during the North-east monsoon.
The only openings are Pago harbour, in lat. 13 24V N., accessible only
for boats, and Ylic bay, 2 miles to the southward, and equally unim-
portant.
TAROFOFO HARBOUR is formed of two inlets, the northern of
which, Tarofofo, is open to the east, in which direction it is 1^ miles
long, and it is about a third of a mile wide ; the other is smaller, and
called Paicpouc bay. The Tarofofo river, the most considerable in
Guam, enters the head of the harbour. The Madreporic hills, very steep,
rise abruptly from both sides of the harbour ; the Mahilouc, on the north
side, are celebrated in the history of the country. There is no village near
this locality.
This harbour is the only port, next to San Luis, that Avill receive a
vessel at all seasons of the year. There are no rocks in it, nor is there
any danger.
HOUNZ.ODC1TA, TNTARAHAN, and AGFA YAW BATS. From Taro-
fofo to Ilounlodgna bay, l miles to the south-west, the land is low, Avitli
sandy beaches and rocky points ; this bay is only lit for boats.
Ynarahan bay, at a mile farther to the south-west, is a quarter of a
mile wide at the entrance, half a mile deep, and open from East to South.
A vessel would be quite safe in it during westerly winds, but not with the
opposite. The town of Ynarahan stands on its south side.
Agfayan bay is three-quarters of a mile to the south-west and much
smaller than the latter bay ; it may have good anchorage for vessels of
less than 15 feet draught. It is open to the E.N.E. At its head is a
small brook, where boats can easily obtain water.
SOUTH END of GUAM. Ahay an point, the south-east extreme of
Guam, forms the eastern side of Ah ay an bay, which is so obstructed by
reefs that it is dangerous of approach if there is much sea on. The south
end of Guam is an uninterrupted sandy beach fronted by a reef, with two
or three small islands on it. This reef, after encircling Daneono or Cocos
island, lying 2-i- miles from the south-west extreme of Guam, trends the
same distance to the northward to the south-west point of Guam, where
is the small harbour of Marizo, only fit for boats.
CHAIMX.] MARIANA OR LADRONES ISLANDS. 313
SANTA ROSA SHOAL, of which no description has ever been given,
is in about lat. 12 30' N., long. 144 15' E. A Spanish galleon is said
to have struck on it, and to have lost her rudder. Dampier, when
approaching the ^outh end of Guam, in 1686, sailed over a rocky shoal
with 4 fathoms on it. Galvez also, in 1740, discovered a bank lying
about 20 miles from the south-west end of Guam in lat. 13 N.
UMATA SAT, at about If miles to the northward of the south-west
point of Guam, is a mile deep, east and west, and two-thirds of a mile wide
at entrance. The bay is sheltered from North, round east, to South, but
in the season of westerly winds, or from June to September, it would be
imprudent, or perhaps impossible, to remain in it, on account of the heavy
sea sent in.
Tougouene point, the narrow, low, 'south point of entrance to this bay,
has u reef projecting nearly 2 cables from it to the westward. The north
point of entrance is an isolated and picturesque rock with a fort on it,
which is approached by steps cut in the rock.
The south shore of the bay is mountainous to the head of the bay, where
the river Umata or Saloupa enters the sea, and where a church is built at
the foot of the mountains. The town stands on the north shore, Avhich is
low. Behind the town the hills rise in an amphitheatre, and are neither
high nor remarkable. Excellent water can be obtained from a rivulet
which flows into the sea on the south shore, between Mount Iiiago and
another mount with a fort on it farther west.
PORT SAW LUIS B'APRA. From Umata bay the west coast of
Guam trends N.N.W. 3 miles to Facpi point, and has several sinuosities,
the deepest of which is Cetti bay, as large as that of Umata. Facpi point
is remarkable for being pointed, projecting, and terminating in an isolated
rock joined to the shore by a reef uncovered at low water. From hence to
Orote point, 6 miles to the N.N.W., the coast falls back 2 miles, and forms
a bay, in which are several coves and islets.*
Orote point is the extremity of a narrow peninsula, projecting 3^ miles
in a N.W. by W. direction from the coast, and which cannot be traversed
on account of the number of large rocks and precipices which cover it.
A small islet lies close to the north side of the point, and from it the
north coast of the peninsula trends E. by S. and S.E. by S. to the village
of Apra, which is built on the isthmus connecting the peninsula to the
main land. From thence it bends round to the East and North, forming a
deep indentation named Port San Luis d'Apra, which is nearly in the
* See Plan of Puerto de Apra, No. 1,102 ; scale, m = 0-75 of an inch.
314 ISLANDS SOUTH-EAST OF THE LU-CHU GROUP. [CIIAV. ix.
shape of the letter V, the opening to which is nearly closed by a long
narrow island, named Apapa or Cabras, the Luminan reefs, and the
Calalan bank.
This port is extensive and safe, but it is much encumbered with nume-
rous banks, rocks, and islets. The usual entrance is to the northward of
(la- islet lying close to Orote point, by a deep channel a third of a mile
wide, between that islet and the west end of the Calalan bank. There is
a channel, with 5 fathoms in it, between the east end of this bank and
the Luminan reefs, but it should not be used without buoys. In the centre
of the port is a rock level with the water, on which fort Santa Cruz is
built. The general anchorage is about 2 cables north of this fort, in a
space carrying 5 to 15 fathoms, muddy bottom, surrounded by coral
patches 2 or 3 feet below water. Some of the channels leading to this
anchorage are narrow ; the last before entering is not more than 120 yards
wide ; but the patches are steep-to, and may be approached almost to
touching.
The watering place is at a small river which falls into the port at three
quarters of a mile from Santa Cruz fort. The casks are usually filled at
low tide, and the boats sent at high water to bring them off.
The COAST from the east point of Port San Luis d'Apra trends E.N.E.
1^ miles to a perpendicular rocky point, named Acahi-Fanahi, near to
which is Gapan islet. At 1^ miles eastward of this islet is Adeloup point,
better known to the inhabitants as Punta del Diablo, on account of the
rapidity of the currents, which make it difficult to be doubled. From
hence a sandy beach commences, which trends to the east and north, form-
ing Agagna bay, in the middle of which is the harbour of Agagna, only fit
for small craft.
From Agagna bay the north-west coast of Guam is of steep rocks. At
l miles to the north-east of Agagna is Toumon bay, which appears filled
with reefs, but there are several passages through them, where boa Is
can reach the shore without difficulty. Near the middle of the coast of
this bay is the village of Gnaton. From hence the coast is barren and
uninhabited.
A short distance inland from Ritidian point, the north extreme of Guam,
the perpendicular hills form, scarcely without interruption, the circuit of
the island. In the middle of the north face of the island there is a bay,
but it is fronted with coral reefs.
ROTA or Sarpan island, bearing N.N.E. % E. 30 miles from the
north end of Guam, is 12 miles long, N.E. by E. and S.W. by W., 5 miles
broad, and its highest part is about 600 feet above the sea. Its east and
centre portions are hilly, but the land becomes lower to the south-west, to
CHAP, ix.] MARIANA OR LADRONES ISLANDS. 315
a low sandy isthmus on which the villages of Sossan Hagno and Sossan
Haya are built. To the south-west of this isthmus is the south-west
point, a hill, terminating in a level and regular plateau. Some cattle, pigs,
cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, bananas, and a few other vegetables, constitute the
entire riches of the island. Three wells furnish the inhabitants with water ;
two of them are artificial and the water bad ; the third, which is natural,
affords better, though it is brackish. On the east coast of the island, at
.5 miles from the villages, there is a rivulet of very good water. '
The south-east end of the island is tolerably high and perpendicular on
the sea shore, presenting thus a straight wall, and at its angles vertical
fissures like the embrasures of a fort. In other parts the land descends
gradually to the sea, terminating in long and low points. The portion of
the island not inhabited is so encumbered with bushes that it is difficult
to penetrate ; on the north side there are some cocoa-nut trees.
Rota is nearly surrounded by reefs. Its north-east coast and the south-
east side of the isthmus are bordered with numerous rocks, on which the sea
breaks more or less, according to the direction of the wind. A large
bay, 4 miles wide and 2 miles deep, is formed between the south and
south-west points of the island, in which vessels can find good shelter
from winds between East, round north, and west ; but the bottom is foul.
On the west side of the isthmus a sort of stage or jetty makes an easy
access for boats.
AGUXJAN ISLAND, at 44 miles N.N.E. from Rota, is small, being
not more than 3 miles long and 2 miles wide. At its north part are
high, perpendicular, and nearly naked rocks, except at their summits,
which are crowned with thick wood. Goats are numerous. The only
points fit for landing are on the west and north-west sides, where
there are some very small creeks lined with sandy beaches. The coasts
of the island appear clear of danger, with the exception of a rock lying
a mile off its south-west point.
or Buena Vista island, separated from Aguijan by a channel
5 miles wide, is 10 miles long, north and south, and 4 miles broad.
It was celebrated, in Anson's voyage in 1742, for its healthy and
dry soil, the beauty of its meadows, and its diversified woods, lawns,
valleys, and hills, abounding with herds of thousands of cattle, guanacoes,
wild hogs, wild fowl, guavas, cocoa-nuts, limes, oranges, and bread-fruit.
Later navigators have not given its description in such glowing colours.
Instead of valleys and lawns, the trees were thick and almost impenetrable,
the land overgrown with a stubborn reed or rush, the climate insufferably
hot, the water scarce and bad, the plague of fleas intolerable, and swarms
316 ISLANDS SOUTH-EAST OF THE LU-CHU GROUP. [CHAIMX.
of scorpions, centipedes, large black ants, and other venomous insects
without number ; all the refreshments, however, mentioned above could be
obtained. Not a long time previous to Alison's visit the island had been
depopulated by the Spaniards. In 1819 there was not more than
twenty inhabitants on it.
The only anchorage for large ships is in Anson road, off the south-
west shore of Tinian, abreast ,the village of Sunharom. This road,
however, being open to the westward, and the bottom full of pointed coral
rocks, cannot be recommended as an anchorage, particularly between the
months of June and October, during the season of the western monsoon.
From the middle of October to the middle of June the weather is settled
and the road secure. H.M.S. Centurion anchored here, however, from
27th August till the end of October 1742, about 1|- miles off shore,
abreast a sandy bay, in 22 fathoms, on a bottom of hard sand and coral,
with the two extremes of the island bearing N.W. N. and S.E. ^ E.,
the centre of Aguijan S.S.W., the peak of Seypan seen over the
northern part of Tinian N.N.E. -| E., and a reef of rocks lying
between the vessel and the shore E. by S. f S. The anchoring bank is
shelving, and free from danger, except a reef of rocks lying about half a
mile off shore, and affording a narrow passage into the small sandy bay,
which is the only place the boats can land.*
SEYPAN ISLAND, at 3 miles to the north-east of Tinian, may be
recognized by its lofty peak, 2,000 feet above the sea. The island f is
generally visited annually by three or four whalers, which anchor off its
north-west side, outside a long reef extending in a southerly direction
from the north-west part of the island towards the north part of Tinian ;
there is, however, a passage through this reef off the north-west part of the
island, near a small island, with anchorage inside for several vessels. It
was stated by the inhabitants that there is no passage up inside the reef>
although it extends a long distance off shore from the south-west end of
Seypan ; but that there is a ship channel between the north end of Tinian
and the south end of Seypau and reef.
The only village on Seypan is on its north-west side. It is ruled
by a man appointed from Guam island, and inhabited by old and young
settlers, and natives, in all about 300 persons. The natives for the
most part are fine young men from the Caroline islands ; they arc
quiet, and in a state of nudity, with the exception of a narrow slip of
cotton round the lower part of their bodies.
* See Plan of Tinian Bay, No. 1,102 ; scale, m = 0-75 of an inch.
f The description of this island is by Captain N. Vansittart, C.B,, and John "W.
H. Harvey, Master B.N., H.M.S. Magicienne, July 1858.
CHAP, ix.] MARIANA OR LADRONES ISLANDS. 317
Supplies. There is no water at Seypan, except what is caught during
the rains, and the rainy season in August, September, and October.
Cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, and limes are plentiful ; there are also many
wild pigs and bullocks the latter belong to the Spanish government.
Pigs, poultiy, and fruit can be obtained at the village.
MAGICIETJNE BAY. H.M. steam frigate Magidetute, on her passage
from the Sandwich islands to Hong Kong, July 1858, having lost the
North-east trades in long. 156 38' E., and being short of fuel, steered
for Seypan island, and anchored in Magicienne bay on its south-east side,
in lat. 15 8f N., long. 145 44' E.*
This bay cannot be recommended to a sailing vessel, as the water in
it is deep, and the anchorage so close to a coral reef bordering its shore,
that with a southerly wind there would be no room to weigh. The
depth is 30 fathoms, over coral with sandy patches, at only a third of a
mile from the bluff at the head of the bay, decreasing rapidly to 3 fathoms
close alongside the coral reef, which nearly dries at low water. The
Magicienne anchored in 18 fathoms, with the south-west point of the
bay bearing S. j E. about 2^- miles ; the south-east point, which is a bluff,
E.S.E. 1 miles : and a wooded bluff at the head of the bay, N.N.W. 1 W.
nearly a third of a mile. When the vessel swung to the shore, there were
9 fathoms, coral patches, under her stern, and she was distant only a cable's
length from the reef ; at a cable to the southward of her anchor there
was no bottom at 70 fathoms. The bay is well protected, being open
only from E.S.E. to South. During the few days the vessel remained
in it, the wind was light from the S.E. during the day, and at night
a light air from the land between X.E. and N.W.
Supplies. There is a plentiful supply of wood growing on the shores of
Magicienne bay, sufficient to supply any number of vessels, being for the
most part the thickness of a man's body, white when cut, and in substance
something between a bad ash and a poplar. The best place for landing is
on the sandy beach to the eastward of the wooded bluff at the head of the
bay. The crew of the Magicienne cut down and brought on board
172 fathoms in six days, the wood growing close to the beach, and easily
carried to the boats, which could lie afloat close to the reef. Xo
water could be obtained ; wells were dug, but the water from them was
brackish.
The wood soon dried, but being freshly cut, it was necessary to split
and bark it on board before using it for steaming purposes, also to use a
small quantity of coal with it ; the bark was very sappy. The wood being
free of resinous substances, it did not give out so much heat as might have
* See Plan of Magicienne Bay, No. 1,102 ; scale, m = 2i inches.
318 ISLANDS SOUTH-EAST OF THE LU-CHU GROUP. [CHAP.IX.
been expected ; three and a half fathoms of it being only equal to one ton
of good Welsh coal.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, in Magicienne bay, at
6h. 45m., and the rise is about 2 feet.
FARAXiX.o:r de MEDXWXX.XIA or Bird island, flat, barren, and with
perpendicular sides, and distant about 41 miles to the N.N.E. of the north
end of Seypan, is 2 miles long N.E, and S.W., and its breadth is much
less. On the south and west sides are some deep caverns or grottos.
The south point is terminated by a small hill, which appeared to be joined
to the island by a narrow neck of land.
xsiiAND, at 27 miles to the north-west of the latter, is
about 5 miles long east and west, and has two high and steep peaks,
which are on the same parallel. The island has every appearance of
being volcanic ; in clear weather it is visible at a distance of about 21
miles.
SARIGUAN- ISLAND, to the N.N.E. and distant 18 miles from Ana-
tajan, appears to be merely a high hill, of the form of an upright cone,
with nearly a circular base, 1^ miles in diameter. Its summit is rounded.
It is almost without vegetation, and seems to be of volcanic origin.
ZEAXiANDiA BREAKERS.* The ship Zcalandia, at 4h. p.m. 3rd
December 1858, when steering W.N.W. to pass between Sariguan and
Farallon de Torres, two patches of breakers were seen right ahead,
distant about three-quarters of a mile. The course was altered to pass
northward of them, and a good look-out kept from the top-sail yard.
At 4h. 20m. p.m. Sariguan bore S. by W. ^ W. about 11 or 12 miles,
when the breakers were in line with the island, and distant half a mile
from the ship ; this would place them in about lat. 16 50' N., long.
145 54' E. The two patches, which at times broke heavily, bore
N. by E. and S. by W. about a quarter of a mile apart, with dark water
between and around them. The wind was light and easterly, but the
lateness of the day and the unsettled state of the weather did not permit a
close examination.
de TORRES, lying about 36 miles to the northward of
Sariguan, is a small island, 2 miles long N.N.E and S.S.W., and about
a mile broad. It is of moderate height, much resembling the Farallon de
Medinilla. Its north point is the lowest ; it has a most barren aspect,
is perpendicular, and unapproachable on all sides.
* Mercantile Marine Magazine, September 1859, p. 284,
CHAP. ix. J MARIANA OR LADRONES ISLANDS. 319
GUGITAN ISLAND, one of the highest islands iu this archipelago, bears
North, and is distant 16-| miles from Farallon de Torres. It is 2^ miles
long north and south, and on it are two peaks, the highest of which is
estimated to be about 2,000 feet above the sea. To the south and east
the slope of the hills is extremely rapid, and the rock, which descends to
the sea, is composed of lava. At its south end there are some white and
red spots, and to the west a point covered with trees. The north side is
not so steep as the south. The highest point on the north side is a vast
crater, from whence smoke has been seen to issue.
ALAMAGUAN ISLAND, about 25 miles North of Guguan, was only
seen from the Uranie at a distance of 18 miles. It seemed to be divided
into two portions, joined by low land, and to be about 8 miles long
N.E. and S.W. Its highest parts are angular ; that to the north-east
was like a volcano.
PAGON ISLAND, of which but little is known, lies North 9 miles
from Alamaguan. Several peaks were seen in passing it, and a small
island near its south end. It is said that there is anchorage close to the
south part of Pagon, but it must be exposed to the southward.
ISLAND, at 30 miles N. by W. of Pagon, is about 6 miles
long N.W. and S.E., and on it are two high peaks, estimated to be
2,026 feet above the sea. It is stated that on the south-west side of
the island there is a small plain, in front of which there is bad anchorage
on account of the violence of the currents.
This island is larger than Asuncion to the northward of it, and like
the latter is volcanic, having a few trees on its north and south sides,
which descend gradually from what appears to be a crater, having at
some period deposited streams of lava, or black ashes, a considerable
distance down its sides.
MANGS ISLANDS are sonic small islets which the Spanish charts
place in the middle of numerous reefs. They were seen from the mast-
head of the Uranie in 1819, and the bearings then taken serve to point
out their approximate position. They lie about N.N.W., 43 miles from
Grigan.
ASUNCION ISLAND, called also the Great Volcano, which is expres-
sive of its character, is 54 miles N. by W. from Grigan. It is a remarkable
object, being a perfect volcanic cone rising abruptly from the sea to the
height of about 1,450 feet. Its whole circumference at the base is not
more than 3 miles. In clear weather both this island and Grigan can be
seen about 45 miles off.
320 ISLANDS EAST OF THE LU-CHU GROUP. [CHAP. ix.
VRACCAS or Hangs islands, according toLaperouse, are a small rocky
group lying N.N.W. 1 W. 15 miles from Asuncion, in lat. 19 57' N.,
long. 145 20' E.
GUY BOCK, in 20 30' N., 145 32' E., and the northernmost of the
Mariana group, was discovered by Captain Douglas, Sept. 1789.
LOS JARBXNES or Marshall islands. Two small islands, in lat.
21 40' N., long. 151 35' E., were discovered by Captain Marshall of the
ship Scarborough in 1788. They are said to be the same as Los Jardines
of Alvaro de Saavedra, in 1529.
SEBASTIAN LOBOS or Grampus islands. The Grampus group,
discovered by Captain Meares in April 1788, consists of three islands,
two of which are close together, and the third to the south-west of
them. The south-west island is assumed to be in 25 10' N., 146 40' E.
The Sebastian Lobos, with which these are supposed to be identical, are
nearly in this latitude. Meares does not give their position, but Krusen-
stern places them from his track in 25 40 N.
FORFANA ISLAND, which has not been seen since its discovery by
the ship San Juan in 1543, is said to lie 90 miles E. N. of the Volcano
islands, in lat, 25 35' N., long. 143 00' E.
VOLCANO ISLANDS, three in number, were discovered in 1543 by
Bernard de Torres, and received their name from the volcano on the central
one. There is no doubt of their being the same as the Sulphur islands of
Captain King in 1779. They were also seen by Krusenstern in 1805.
The southern island is named San Augustino, the centre Sulphur island,
and the northern San Alessandro.
San Augustino, the summit of which is in lat. 24 14' N., long.
141 20' E., is a single mountain of a square form, flat at the top, and
396 feet high.
Sulphur is about 5 miles long N.N.E. and S.S.W., and its summit is in
24 48' N., 141 13' E. The south point of the island is a high
barren hill, flattish at the top, and, when seen from the W.S.W., presents
an evident volcanic crater. A low narrow neck of land connects this hill
with the south end of the island, which spreads out into a circumference
of 9 or 12 miles, and is of moderate height. The part near the isthmus
has some bushes on it, and a green appearance, but that to the north-east
is barren and full of detached rocks, many of which are white. Dangerous
breakers extend 2.V miles to the east and 2 miles to the west from the
middle part of the island.
CHAP. ix.J BONIN ISLANDS. 321
San Alessandro,, the northern island, is a single mountain of con-
siderable height, like Volcano island, and its peak, which is of a conical
shape, is in 25 14' N., 141 11' E.
ft.
me MAIL ABRioo or Margaret islands, in lat. 27 20' N., long.
145 45' E., are a group of three islands seen in 1773 by Captain Magee.
They have been considered to be the Mai Abrigo islets (bad shelter) of
Bernard de Torres in 1543.
A.RZOBZSPO or BONTW XSLAWDS were re-discovered by an English
whaler in 1825, and were formally taken possession of by Captain
F. W. Beechey, H.M.S. Blossom, in 1827. The group consists of three
clusters of islands extending in a N. by E. direction from the parallel of
27 44' to 26 30' N. and beyond, but that was the limit of their VICAV
to the southward. They had no signs of ever having been inhabited.
The climate is excellent, and the soil productive. In 1853 there were a
few whites and Sandwich islanders, 36 in all, settled on Peel island.
The northern cluster, named Parry group, after Captain Sir E. Parry,
is composed of small islands^and pointed rocks, #nd has much broken
ground about it, which renders caution necessary in approaching it.
The middle group consists of three islands, of which Peel island, the
largest and most southern, is 4^ miles in length. The northern island is
named Staple ton, and the centre one Buckland. This group is 9 miles
in length, and is divided by iwo channels so narrow that they can only
be seen when abreast of them. Neither of them is navigable ; the
northern on account of rocks, which render it impassable even for boats,
and the other on account of rapid tides and currents, which, as there is
no anchoring ground, would drift a ship on to the rocks. Vessels will
find good anchorage at the south-west angle of Bucklaud island, in a
sandy bight named Walker bay, butf they must be careful, when bringing
up, to avoid being carried out of soundings by the current.
The Bailey or Coffin islands, the southern cluster, were visited by a
whale ship, commanded by Mr. Coffin, in 1823 ; they were named Bailey
by Captain Beechey in 1827. A reconnoissance of these islands was
made in 1857, by the officers of the U.S. ship Plymouth, and Lieu-
tenant Balch, in his report, says : " With the exception of New port,
in lat. 26 36' N., long. 142 9' E., on the south-west side of Hills-
borough island (formerly known as Fisher island), and a small cove
just to the northward of it, there is no place on the shores of any of
the islands suitable for a coal depot, nor can New port or the cove
be recommended as places suitable for such a purpose. They are both
open from S.W. to N.W., and the holding ground is not good, being sand
and rocks ; vessels could, however, always get to sea on the approach of
[c.] x
322 ISLANDS EAST OF THE LU-CHU GROUP. [CHAP. ix.
a gale. The Plymouth anchored in 14 fathoms about half a mile from
the head of the port.
" Hillsborough (the largest of the group) is 7 miles long N.N.W. and
S.S.E., \\ miles wide, and the greater part is hilly and rocky. There are
some wild hogs upon it, fish is abundant, and turtle plenty in the season.
Wood and water can be obtained ; the former from the head of the above
cove. From May to December easterly winds prevail ; after that the
westerly winds blow till May with the regularity of a monsoon."
FXTTOsr BAY, at the south-east angle of Peel island, affords good
anchorage, but it is open to the S.E. ; as the winds from this quarter blow
generally during summer, it will be prudent not to anchor there during
that season. A small islet lies off the south-west end of Peel.
PORT X.I.OYD. The entrance to this harbour, on the western
side of Peel island, is well defined, so that it can scarcely be mis-
taken. Before entering it would be well to place a boat on the shoal
which extends South fully 2 cables from the eastern point of Square
rock, lying off the northern point of entrance. The shoal can, how-
ever, be easily seen from aloft even when there is no swell on, and
its centre is awash with a smooth sea. A coral rock, with 8 feet
water on it, lies about a cable's length to the northward of the Southern
head.*
Supplies. Peel island, as well as those surrounding it, is chiefly visited
by whale ships, and its products, therefore, are such as to suit their wants.
Potatoes, yams, and other vegetables, fruiis of various kinds, together
with wild hogs and goats, can be procured from the few whites and Sand-
wich islanders settled at Port Lloyd. Wood is good, and plentiful ;
and water can be had, though in limited quantities, and slightly tainted
by the coral rocks from which it springs. The best watering place is
in Ten- fathom Hole ; but it will be necessary to be cautious of the
sharks, which are very numerous.
DIRE CTXOWS. Having ascertained the position of Port Lloyd, steer
boldly in for the Southern head, taking care, when approaching from the
southward, not to bring it to the northward of N.E. E., or to shut it in
with two paps on the north-east side of the harbour, and which will be
* See Plan of Port Lloyd, No. 1,100 ; scale, m = 4 inches. In this plan the longi-
tude of Ten-fathom Hole is given as 142 11'30"E. The Master of the U.S. ship
Sitsquehanna gives the longitude 5' farther East In a meridian distance measured from
Ffong Kong with 5 chronometers, interval 33 days, Collinson, in 1852, made the longi-
tude of Port Lloyd, 142 15' E., assuming Hong Kong as 114 10' 48" E.
CHAP, ix.] BONIN ISLANDS. 323
seen nearly in one with it on this bearing. In this position they are a safe
leading mark ; to the southward of this line there is broken ground.
In a sailing vessel, if the wind be from the southward, which is
generally the case in the summer season, round the Southern head, at
the distance of a long cable's length, close to the sunken rock, which
will be distinctly seen in clear weather. Keep fresh way upon the
vessel, in order that she may shoot through the eddy winds, which
baffle under the lee of the head, and to prevent her coming round
against her helm, which would be dangerous. She will at first break
off, but will presently come up again ; if not, be ready to go
about, as the vessel will be close upon the reefs to the northward,
and the helm must be put down before the south end of the island
off the port to the north-westward comes on with the west side of
Square rock.
If the vessel comes up, steer for a high Castle rock, at the eastern part
of the port, until a Pointed rock (which is white on the top with bird's
dung, and looks like an island) on the sandy neck to the eastward of the
Southern head comes in one with a high sugar-loaf-shaped grassy hill
to the southward of it ; after which bear away for the anchorage, taking
care not to open the sugar-loaf again to the westward of the Pointed
rock. The best anchorage, Ten-fathom Hole excepted, which it will be
necessary to warp into, is at the northern part of the port, where the
anchor is marked in the Admiralty plan.
In anchoring, take care to avoid a spit extending off the south end
of the small island near Ten-fathom Hole, and not to shoot so far over to
the western reef as to bring a rock at the outer foot of the Southern head,
in one with some black rocks, which will be seen a short distance to the
south-westward. The depth will be 18 to 20 fathoms, clay and sand.
The anchorage is fair, though open to the south-west.
If the wind be from the northward, turn to windward between the line
of the before-mentioned sugar-loaf and Pointed rock, and a north and
south line from the Castle rock. This rock, on the western side, as well
as the bluff to the northward of it, may be passed close to, if necessary.
The hand lead will be of little use in beating in, as the general depth is
20 or 24 fathoms.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, at Port Lloyd at 6h. 8m.,
and springs rise 3 feet. At New port, Hillsborough island (the largest
of the Bailey islands), it is high water at llh. 32m., and the rise
31 feet.
ROSARXO or Disappointment island, in lat. 27 16' N., long. 140 51' E.,
and about 70 miles W. by N. from Peel island, one of the Bonin
x 2
324 ISLANDS NORTH OF THE LU-CHU GROUP. [CHAP. ix.
group, is small, being only about a mile long, east and west, and its
highest part 148 feet above the level of the sea. It is rugged, and
apparently unsusceptible of cultivation, and is surrounded by numerous
isolated rocks.
ISLANDS NORTH OF THE LU-CHU GROUP.
To the northward of the Lu-chu group inhabited islands extend in a
northerly direction, with many safe channels between them, as far as
lat. 30 51' N. The mariner is, however, cautioned not to place too much
dependence either on their configurations or positions, as shown on the
chart of this part of the ocean, for they are by no means correct ;
they are from the Japanese as collated by Siebold, and from detached
surveys and corrections by English, French, and American navigators.
The French corvette La Sabine examined them in the year 1846 ;
their positions, to which we have given the native names and restored
those of former explorers,* appear on the chart of her track to be as
follows :f
voi SXIKA, or Julo of Basil Hall in 1816, centre, lat. 27 2' N.,
long. 128 25' 24" E.
YEIRABTJ sxnxA of Siebold, or Wukido of Basil Hall, south peak,
lat. 27 21' N., long. 128 31' 34" E., height 889 feet, (lat. 27 14' N.,
long. 128 33' by Collinson in 1845).
TDK SIIKA. of Siebold, or Crown island of Broughton, in 1797, highest
peak lat. 27 44' N., long. 128 59' E. ; height, 2,461 feet. The northern
peak is 2,034 feet above the sea ; a village is built on its' north-west face.
This island is 14 miles long north and south, and 7 miles east and west.
All three of the above islands are well wooded, and appear to be inha-
bited.
rwo SIMA, or Sulphur island, in lat. 27 51' N., long. 128 14' E.
(128 19' E. by Collinson) ; height, 541 feet ; is a volcanic mountain
still in action.
* It is greatly to be regretted that navigators will not endeavour to ascertain the names
of places as given by the natives ; or, failing these, that they will not retain the names
affixed to islands by the first discoverers. In the present case there are three and occa-
sionally four names for each of the islands in this archipelago. So long as this. practice
is pursued our charts will remain a maze of confusion.
f See Chart of Islands between Formosa and Japan, No. 2,412.
CHAP, ix.] YORI SIMA. GERMANTOWN REEF. 325
OHO SIMA, or Harbour island, is the largest of the chain of islands
lying between Great Lu-chu and Japan. It is about 30 miles in length,
a N.E. and S.W. direction, is high, well cultivated, and, from the
umber of villages seen along the coast, must contain a large population.
There are two peaks upon its south end, 1,674 and 1,420 feet respectively
above the sea.
This island was partially surveyed by the American squadron
in 1856, and by their chart the outline of the coasts appears much
broken and deeply indented with numerous bights, most of which are
very bold. Wood and water are good and plentiful ; but refreshments
scarce. The inhabitants are timid and harmless. The north end of the
island is highland being connected with the main part of the island by a
narrow low isthmus, it has the appearance, on some bearings, of being
isolated. Foul ground appears to extend about 2^ miles N.E. by E.
from the north end, and two rocks to rise from it, the northern of which
is about 80 feet high. North extreme of the island, iat. 28 31' 40" N.,
long. 129 40' 12" E. ; south extreme, Iat. 28 6' 30" N., long. 129 22' E.
The south end of the island is separated from Katona sima g by a
narrow channel, in some places not more than half a mile wide. The
Vincennes anchored within the eastern entrance of this channel, in a
small bay formed at the north end of Katona sima. In entering the
channel an anchor should be ready to let go, in case of being set too near
danger, for the entrance is narrow and the current strong.
TIDES. By three days' observations in Vincennes bay, at the north
end of Katona sima, it was high water, full and change, at 7h. 30m.; and
the rise and fall 5^ feet.
\
ICIKAI SIMA, lying about 15 miles to the E.S.E. of the north
end of Oho sima, is moderately high, about 7 miles in length, N.X.E.
and S.S.W., and inhabited. The summit (867 feet high) is in Iat.
28 18' N., long. 129 57$' E.*
nssr.j The U.S. ship Germantown, on the 23rd
March 1859, when beating along the south-east side of Oho sima, struck
on a coral reef said to lie in Iat. 28 16' N., long. 129 58' E. From the
shoalest spot found, 6 feet, the highest terrace on Kikai sima bore
N.E. E. 6 or 7 miles. The reef is about a mile long in a N.N.E.
and S.S.W. direction, and half a mile wide.
Another shoal spot was found lying North 2 miles from the centre of
this reef, with apparently a clear passage between. Reefs were also
* From American chart, 1855. f Hong Kong Register, 26th April 1859.
326 ISLANDS NORTH OF THE LU-CHU GROUP. {CHAP, ix,
seen from aloft, extending from one to two miles from the south-west and
south-east points of Kikai sima.
ANCHORAGE. The Germantown anchored at 1 miles from the shore
in 25 fathoms, coral and shell, with the south-east point of Kikai sima
bearing S.E. by E. 1 E., and the south-west point N. | E. The tides
here set strong ; the ebb from E.N.E. to N.E., and the flood from
West to W.N.W. The strength was about 2 knots per hour, with an
undertow of at least double that velocity.
SAND ON ROCK, (Constantino of the French charts), about 20 feet
high, resembling a small haycock, lies N. by E. E. 12 miles from the
north point of Oho sima.
The XiiirsCHOTEN ISLANDS, or Cecille archipelago (so called in the
French charts after Admiral Cecille, by whose directions the islands were
examined in 1846), extend from lat. 28 49' N. to 30 6' N., and from
long. 129 to 130 3' E.
TOKO SIMA, or Ogle island of Belcher in 1845, rising to the height
of 1,623 fedt above the sea, is an extinct volcano, the highest part of
which is in lat. 28 49' N., long. 128 59' E.; there is a small islet about
a mile to the northward of it.
TOK.ARA SIIVXA, 885 feet above the sea, is in lat. 29 8' N. r
long. 129 ll'E.
SIMAGO, or Cooper group of Belcher, are four small islets, the highest
of which, 738 feet above the sea, is in lat. 29 13' N., long. 129 19' E.
The easternmost islet bears from it about E. \ N. 3 miles.
AKTJISI SIMA, or Samarang island of Belcher, 2,184 feet above the
sea, is in lat. 29 27' N., long. 129 35' E.; a small islet lies off its
north-west face.
STTWA SIMA, or Volcano islatid of Belcher, is an active volcano.
2,805 feet high, in lat. 29 38' K, long. 129 42' E.
SIMA. or Disaster island of Belcher, lying to the W.N.W. of
Suwa sima, is 879 feet high, and in lat. 29 41' N., long. 129 31' E.
NAXA SIMA, or Pinnacle island of Belcher, is 3,287 feet above the
sea ; its peak is in lat. 29 53' N., long. 129 50' E.
HEBI SIMA, or St. Francois Xavier island on French chart, rises
to the height of 1,820 feet. The peak is in lat. 29 55' N., long. 129 32' E.
There is a small islet off its north-west face.
CHAP, ix.] LINSCHOTEN ISLANDS. 327
KOHEBI SIM A, or Forcade rock on French chart, 984 feet above
the sea, is in lat. 29 53' N., long. 129 36' E.
KTTTSINO SIMA, or Alemene island on French chart, is 2,116 feet
above the sea, and its highest part is in lat. 29 59' N., long 129 55' E.
BiiAKE REEF, or Lapelin rocks on French chart, the highest islet 011
which is 90 feet above the sea, and in lat. 30 5' N., long. 130 3' E.,
consist of several distinct islets and rocks, extending about 3 miles in a
N.E. and S.W. direction.
SIMA. To the north-eastward of Blake reef is the island
of Yakuno, the highest peak of which, Mount Motomi, 5,848 feet high,
is in lat. 30 21' N., long. 130 29' E. The island, which has not been
examined, is about 12^ miles long north and south.
TANEGA SIIVIA has never been examined, but it is said to be level and
covered with trees. It appears to extend from lat. 30 22' to 30 43' N.,
and from long. 130 54' to 131 5' E. According to the French chart of
1846 there is the outline of a good harbour on its western side, and the
sites of some towns are noticed.
SERIFHOS or Omuru rock is marked in the French chart as under
water ; it is in lat. 30 44' N., long. 130 45' E.
TERABIT SIIVIA, or Julie island on French chart, is an active volcano,
rising to the height of 2,067 feet above the sea. Its highest peak is in
lat. 30 27 N., long. 130 11' E. The island is about 6 miles long, in an
E.S.E. and W.N.W. direction ; its greatest breadth is 3 miles.*
TAKE SIMA, or Apollos island on French chart, is high, and about
2 miles in circumference ; its centre is in lat. 30 48' N., long. 130 24' E.
TWOCA SIMA, or Volcano island on French chart, is an active volcano ;
its highest peak, which rises 2,345 feet above the sea, is in lat. 30 42' N.,
long. 130 17' E.
POWHATTAN REEF. This dangerous reef, in lat 30 41' N., long.
130 19' E., was discovered by the U.S. frigate Powhattan in January
1860. From the centre rock, which is about 18 feet above the sea, the
south-west point of Iwoga sima bore N.W., the east point N. W., and
the east point of Take sima N.E. N.
Other rocks were seen awash, or a few feet above water, stretching out
about three-quarters of a mile from the centre rock. Some reefs were also
observed extending about three-quarters of a mile from the eastern points
of Iwoga sima ; and a rocky spit about a quarter of a mile from the east
point of Take sima.
328 ISLANDS OFF SOUTH-EAST COAST OF NIPON. [CHAP. ix.
TK.IO BOCKS are three distinct islets, of about an equal height ; the
centre islet, which is 223 feet above the sea, is in lat. 30 45' N., long.
130 5' E.
KTTBO SZXVXA, or St. Clair island on French chart, rises to the height
of 2,132 feet ; its centre is in lat. 30 50' N., long. 129 55' E.
IT CERSOLL ROCKS The Ingersoll, Morrison, or Larne rocks, eight
in number, extend in a N.E. and S.W. direction about 5^ miles ; the
highest, 446 feet above the sea, is in lat. 30 51' N., long. 129 26' E.
ISLANDS OFF SOUTH-EAST COAST OF NIPON.
X.OTS WIPE or Black rock, in lat. 29 47' N., long. 140 22^' E.,
lying off the south-east coast of Nipon, is a tall pinnacle rising about
300 feet above the sea ; in clear weather it can be seen at a distance of
25 miles, and bears a remarkable resemblance to a ship under all sail.
A cast of the lead within 8 miles of this rock gave no soundings with
160 fathoms of line.
POUAFHUW or St. Peter island was discovered in 1820 by Lieutenant
Ponafidin of the Russian Navy, and named by him Three Hills islniid,
from its having apparently three hummocks. It was seen by one of the
vessels of the United States squadron in 1853, and its position is given
as lat. 30 33' N., long. 140 15' E.
SMITH xsiiAira. H.M.S. Tribune, 18th January 1859, passed a
high pinnacle-looking rock, in lat. 31 18' N., long. 139 50' E., about
three-quarters of a mile in circumference, with heavy breakers extending
apparently a quarter of a mile from it, and a small rock close to its north
side. As this rock is nearly in the same position as that assigned to
Smith island on the chart, there is every reason to believe they are
identical.
EAYONNAISE, or King William isle, in lat. 32 0' 40" N., long.
140 0' E., forms a curve a cable long north and south, its northern
summit rising 20 feet ; several rocks extend off it a quarter of a mile
to the north-west.*
siMA, or South isle, in lat. 32 30' N., long. 139 50' E., is
3 miles long, and is visible 36 miles off in clear weather. Its coasts are
steep, and the only landing place is on the east side, where there is a
rock level with the water at a little distance from the land. Onanga is
* See Chart of Nipon Island, Kiusiu and Sikok, and part of the Coast of Korea,
No. 2.347, scale, d = 2-3 inches ; corrected to 1861.
CIIAP. ix.] LOTS WIFE ROCK. REDFIELD ROCKS. 329
Inhabited and cultivated on the north and north-west sides. Cheyne, who
saw the isle in July 1853, places it 1' farther north and 12' farther west.
FATSIZXIT XSX.AX*JX>, 12 miles long, N.W. and S.E., has the appear-
ance of two islands joined by a low plain, while a high islet near its
north end makes it look like three islands on making it from seaward,
whence it may be seen from 40 to 50 miles. It is inhabited and well
cultivated. Lat. (of centre) 33 6' N., long. 139 43' E.
BROT7GHTOX7 ROCK, in lat. 33 42' N., long. 139 17' E., is about
50 feet high, flat at the top with steep slopes, except on one side, where
it presents a broken and precipitous face.
MEAC SIMA. and IVSECOUH-A. are two high and bold islands ; the
first in lat. 34 6' N., long. 139 29' E., and Mecoura in 33 54' N.,
139 35' E. ; the latter lies about 17 miles to the north-east of
Broughton rock. Mecoura is called Prince island and Meac sima Volcano
island in former charts.
There is a cluster of rocks about 2^ miles to the south-west of Meac
sima, and Broughton says, " there are, in addition, some black rocks 2 or
3 miles from the eastern point of the island.
REDFXEXiD ROCKS This dangerous cluster of small, sharp pointed
rocks, from 15 to 20 feet above water, lies about 20 miles to the south-
west of Kozu sima, in lat. 33 56' 50" N., long. 138 49' E. They are
said* to rise from the north-east extremity of a reef which extends from
them 2 miles in a south-westerly direction, and only breaks in bad weather.
A vessel, therefore, in passing westward of them in fine weather should
give the tail of the reef a good berth, as it might not then be marked
by breakers.
KOZU SIIWA, in lat. 34 13' N., long. 139 8' E. (centre), is the most
south-western of the chain of islands fronting the Gulf of Yedo. It is
3^ miles long N.E. and S.W., and may be recognized by a remarkable
white cliff on its western side, and a white patch on its summit, to the
northward of the cliff. It has an elevation of 2,000 feet above the sea.
There is a safe channel 15 miles wide between Kozu sima and Meac
sima.
About 2 miles to the southward of the south-west point of Kozu sima
are the Brood rocks, which should be given a safe berth, as their jagged
appearance would lead to the belief that there are many hidden dangers
in their immediate neighbourhood.
SXKXXTX SIM A. is low, with a small islet off its north end. It is 1^
miles long N.N.E. and S.S.W., and lies 5 miles to the north-east of Kozu
* Edward H. Hills, Master of H.M.S. Highflyer, 1859.
330 ISLANDS OFF SOUTH-EAST COAST OF NIPON. [CHAP. ix.
sima. One of the vessels of the American squadron passed between these
islands and saw no danger ; there is therefore reason to believe that the
channel is safe.
SIM A is about l miles to the north-east of Sikini, and from
its broken outline appears from a distance as several islands. Its extent
is 5 miles, north and south, and its most elevated part is 1,490 feet
above the sea. There is a small low islet a short distance to the south-
east.
ITTOMA is a conical islet, 660 feet high, lying N. E., about 2^ miles
from Nee sima ; it has detached rocks lying near its shores.
TO SIM A, bearing N. W. 2 miles from Utoma, is one mile in diameter,
pyramidal shaped, and its summit 1,730 feet above the sea.
OHO SIMA, or Vries island, the largest and most northern of the
chain fronting the gulf of Yedo, is 10 miles to the N.N.E. of To
sima, its south-eastern point being in lat. 34 39^' N., long. 139 28' E.
It has an active volcano near its summit, which rises 2,530 feet above
the sea. The slopes of the mountain are extensively cultivated and
dotted with towns and villages. The vapour which sometimes ascends
from the volcano, and condenses in masses on the mountain, renders the
island a good land-fall for vessels approaching this part of the coast of
Nipon.. The passage between it and To sima is believed to be free from
hidden danger.
CAUTION. The current sets strongly to the north-east through the
various passages between the above islands, and this should be remem-
bered, particularly in bad weather. In their vicinity, in fact throughout
the path of the current from the south end of Formosa to Behring strstit ?
constant heavy tide rips will be encountered, which, in light winds.
frequently render a vessel for a time unmanageable.
PORTSMOUTH BREAKERS Captain Foote of the U.S. frigate
Portsmouth reports* that he nearly lost his vessel on a reef of rocks (not
laid down in the charts) about 35 miles in a south-westerly direction
from Simoda, and 13 miles from the nearest land.
In steeringf for the Gulf of Yedo the Furious passed inside the above
position assigned to these breakers, and although the water changed
its colour very decidedly, no indication of danger was seen, nor was
any bottom obtained with 13 fathoms. From the mast-head the line
of discoloration could be traced from the shore to as far as could be seen
seaward. It was from 4 to 6 miles wide in an E.N.E and W.S.W.
* Shipping Gazette, 30th March 1858.
f Stephen Court, Master of H.M.S. Furious, 1858.
CHAP, ix.] OHO SIMA. PORTSMOUTH BREAKERS. 331
direction where the Furious crossed, and on emerging from it into blue
water, the boundary line was as plainly marked as on entering it from the
westward.
The direction in which this discoloured water extended, S.E. and N.W.
and its extent, 6 miles between the vessel and the shore, and about the
same distance seaward, in all 13 miles, would lead to the supposition that
it terminated in the Portsmouth breakers. Vessels, therefore, bound either
way should be well assured of their reckoning when passing this locality ;
a good look-out should also be kept, the lead constantly hove, and every
precaution taken when nearing the position given for these breakers.*
WINDS and -WEATHER. The South-west moonsoon sweeps over the
Lu-chu group, and reaches the southern shores of the Japan and Bonin
islands. At Napha, Lu-chu, during the visit of the United States
squadron, in 1854, it prevailed steadily in May and June, and veered
to the southward and eastward in July. In August the wind was
changeable, and blew at times quite strong, with squally, rainy weather.
The North-east monsoon set in about the 1st September, and continued
until the departure of the squadron, on the 7th February, being, however,
interrupted during the winter months by fresh gales from the north-
ward and westward, which were generally accompanied with heavy
rain.
At the Bonin islands, in April, the wind was variable ; in June it was
from the southward and westward ; and in October, from the northward
and eastward. The passage from Lu-chu to these islands, in October,
was exceedingly boisterous.
The Mariana islands lie in the region of the northern tropic, and con-
sequently in that of the north-east trades. But this is not the prevalent
wind. The N.E. and S.W. monsoons, which are met with in the China
Sea and on the coasts of China, extend as far as the Mariana islands, and
sometimes even beyond them ; so that the limits between the monsoons
and the trade winds must be found near this Archipelago. The months of
July to November are the season of bad weather, storms, thunder, and
rain. I In December, January, and February the weather is variable.
March, April, May, and June are the finest months ; the wind is then
from East and N.E. The winds blow strongest in August, September^
October, and November ; their direction at these periods is from N.W. to
S.W. by W., sometimes from South and S.E., but in general between
* In page 336, it is stated that where whirls and eddies are produced by the inequali-
ties of the bed of the Japan current, strong tide rips are encountered, often resembling
heavy breakers on reefs or shoals.
f Voyage of the French corvette Uranie in 1819, by M. Louis de Freycinet.
332 ISLANDS OFF SOUTH-EAST COAST OF NIPON. [CHAP. ix.
North and West than from North itself. Hurricanes are rare, but are not
unknown ; there had not been one of these scourges for seven years prior
to the Uranie's visit. Earthquakes are frequent.
TYPHOONS. The whole region from Formosa to the Bonin islands is
within the track of these storms ; though it is believed they seldom reach
the coast of Japan. The season during which they may be expected is
from May to November, inclusive ; but hi the neighbourhood of- the
Bonin islands they seem to occur more frequently in October.
333
CHAPTER X.
JAPAN AND KURIL ISLANDS, AND SOUTH-EAST COAST OF
KAMCHATKA.
VARIATION in 1861. Japan islands, 2 30' W. Kuril islands, 1 40' W. to 2 30' E.
Avatcha bay, 3 40' E.
ISLANDS. The empire of Japan is composed of three large
islands, Kiusiu, Sikok, and Nipon, and numerous smaller islands. Nipon,
the largest and most important of the group, and that which gives name
to the whole empire, is more than 700 miles in length in a N.E. and S.W.
direction, and its breadth varies from 50 to 150 miles. South of Nipon,
and separated from it by a narrow channel, is the island of Kiusiu, about
180 miles in length, north and south, and about 80 in average breadth.
Lying north-east of Kiusiu, and eastward of the south extreme of Nipon,
is the island of Sikok, about 130 miles in length, N.E. and S.W., and 60
in breadth i It is separated from Nipon by a long strait named the Misima
Nada, and from Kiusiu by the Boungo channel. The islands Kiusiu,
Sikok, and the western end of Nipon form a basin or interior sea named
Suwo Nada or the sea of Suwo. This sea, through which one European
ship only (H.M.S. Cruizer in 1859) has ventured, has many islands, and
according to the Japanese the largest ships may navigate it. It is sepa-
rated from the Pacific ocean by the island of Sikok and communicated with
by the Kino channel to the east, and the Boungo channel to the west, and
with the Japan sea by the Fiki channel between the islands of Notch and
Wilson. North of Nipon, and separated from it by the strait of Tsugar, is
the large island of Yezo, a conquest and colony of Japan. Its form is that
of an irregular triangle, and its area is computed at 30,000 square miles.
The southern portion of the island of Saghalin, which is separated from
Yezo by Laperouse strait and the three southernmost of the Kuril
islands Kunashir, Iturup, and Urup belong to Japan.
The Japanese islands are exceedingly broken and mountainous, with
numerous peaks rising to a considerable height. Mount Fuzi or Fuzi-
yama is the highest ; it is in about lat. 35 36f N., long. 138 48' E.,
about 12,450 feet above the level of the sea, and an excellent landmark
for vessels approaching the Gulf of Yedo.
CX.ZMATE. The climate of Japan must vary considerably between its
southern and northern extremities ; but except at a few points we possess
very little information on the subject
334 JAPAN ISLANDS. [CHAP. x.
At Nagasaki, in the island of Kiusiu, the average temperature in the
month of January was 35, and in August 98 of Fahr. At this place
the weather is very changeable. Rain is frequent at all seasons, but
especially in July and August In December and January the ground is
covered with hoar frost, and occasionally with snow, except in very mild
winters. In summer the land is cooled by the sea breeze, which blows
from the south during the day and from the east at night.
At Simoda, on the south-east coast of Nipon, the climate is more or less
variable in the winter and spring. The presence of snow upon the lofty
peaks, although there is seldom frost or snow at Simoda itself, and the not
unfrequent rains, with the fogs, give an occasional humidity and rareness
to the atmosphere which must be productive of occasional inflammatory
diseases. The change of wind alternates often between the warm sea
breezes from the south, and the cold blasts from the snow-capped moun-
tains inland. In summer it is occasionally very hot in the daytime, but
the nights are refreshed by the sea breezes.
Of the climate of the still more northern part of the empire we have no
precise account. It is stated that at Hakodadi, on the southern coast of
Yezo, that severe frosts are uncommon, yet the temperature is often two
degrees below freezing point. In summer the rain pours in torrents at the
least twice a week, the horizon is obscured by dark clouds, the winds are
violent, and the fogs frequent. Apples, pears, and peaches hardly attain
ripeness, and the orange and lemon trees will not bear fruit.
Fogs are very prevalent on the coasts of Japan, and thunderstorms and
earthquakes are frequent. On the 10th November 1855 an earthquake at
Yedo is said to have caused the destruction of 100,000 dwellings and 54
temples, and the death of 30,000 persons.
WINDS. During the stay of the American squadron in Japan, from
February to July 1854, the weather was generally fine, but occasionally
interrupted by strong winds and heavy rain. Northerly winds were pre-
valent in February, March, and April, south-westerly winds in May and
July, and variable winds in June. The gales came on suddenly from the
south-west, with a low barometer, and continuing for a short time, hauled
round to the northward and westward and moderated. There were no
easterly gales ; in fact the wind was rarely from that quarter, except when
veering round from the northward (as it invariably did) by the east, to the
southward and westward. In the bay of Yedo the mean temperature for
the month of February was 46 Fahr., and the apricot and camelia japonica
were in full bloom. There were but few fogs ; they commenced at
flakodadi about the 1st June, but did not extend as far southward as
Simoda.
CHAP, x.] CLIMATE. WINDS. 335
In the months of August and September 1858 the period H.M.S-
Furious remained in Yedo bay heavy gales from the E.N.E., shifting
round to the S.W. and increasing in force, were frequent. Winds from
West, round northerly, to E.N.E. generally brought fine weather, and
rain when between S.E. and S.W.
From information obtained at Yedo, it appears the prevailing winds
throughout the year are to the northward of East and West, and that those
to the southward generally bring bad weather ; always, however, causing
the barometer to fall in sufficient time to enable a vessel to obtain a 60 or
80 miles offing, should she be near the coast.
Strong winds from the S.E. are generally accompanied with thick
weather and rain. At such a period it is recommended that a vessel
bound to the westward from Yedo should run through the chain of islands
to the southward of Van Diemen strait, instead of passing through the
strait ; for by taking this latter route, and not making sufficient allowance
for the north-easterly current, she would in all probability find herself
embayed on a lee shore to the northward of Cape Chichakoff and possibly
of Cape D'Anville.
During H.M.S. Saracen's survey of the Strait of Tsugar, May, June,
July, and August 1855, the prevailing winds were from the South, with
much fine clear weather. The wind was less frequent from the X.W.
than any other quarter. Dense fogs prevailed in May and June ; after
that period they were comparatively rare.
The wind in shifting usually followed the course of the sun. After a
few days of light southerly wind and fine weather it freshened, and veered
to the westward, accompanied by fine clear and cold weather. At N.W.
it usually died away, or flew round suddenly to the eastward; in the latter
case it was always followed by a dense fog or a gale ; the weather getting
fine again as the wind veered to the southward.
Tbe Kinto-srwo or JAPAN STREAM is an immense oceanic
current, which from observations appears to have its origin in the great
equatorial current of the Pacific, from which it is separated by the south
end of Formosa. The larger portion of this current, when it reaches the
point just named, passes off into the China Sea ; while the other part i-
deflected to the northward along the eastern coast of Formosa, until
reaching the parallel of 26 N., when it bears off to the northward and
eastward, washing the whole south-east coasts of Japan, as far as the
Strait of Tsugar, and increasing in strength as it advances.
Near its origin the stream is contracted, and is usually confined between
Formosa and the Meiaco-sima group, with a width of nearly 100 miles ;
336 JAPAN ISLANDS. [CHAP. x.
but to the northward of the latter it rapidly expands on its southern limit
and reaches the Lu-chu and Bonin islands, attaining a width to the north-
ward of the latter of about 400 miles. Its average maximum temperature
is 86, which differs aoout 12 from that of the ocean, due to the latitude.
The north-western edge of the stream is strongly marked by a sudden
thermal change in the water of from 10 to 20; but the southern and
eastern limit is less distinctly denned, there being a gradual thermal
approximation of the air and water.
Along the borders of the stream, where it chafes against the counter
currents and torpid waters of the ocean, as also in its midst, where whirls
and eddies are produced by islands and the inequalities in its bed, strong
tide rips are encountered, often resembling heavy breakers on reefs or
shoals. Its average velocity between the south end of Formosa and
Tsugar strait has been found to be from 35 to 40 miles in 24 hours.
This current is, however, much influenced, both in direction and
velocity, by local causes. It is sometimes entirely checked for a day by
a north-east wind ; when it may be again expected to resume its former
course, and possibly run with greater rapidity than usual for one or
two days. On one occasion, off the Gulf of Yedo, its maximum strength is
recorded as high as 72, 74, and 80 miles respectively, on three successive
days.
To the northward of lat. 40 N., in long. 143 E., there is a cold counter
current intervening between this stream and the south coast of Yezo, as
shown by the sudden thermal change in the water from 16 to 20, which
it is believed sets to the westward through the Strait of Tsuar.
STRAIT. The islands (described in page 327) on
the south side of this strait, and the south end of Kiusiu on the north
side are high, and apparently of safe approach. On the north side
is a large and deep bay, of which Cape Chichakoff forms the south-east
point, and a remarkable mountain, named Homer peak, the north-west
point. This mountain, with a similar mountain on Iwoga sima on the
southern side of the strait, both of great height, form two conspicuous
land-marks when approaching the strait from the westward. The whole
of the above bay, excepting to the north, is surrounded by high mountains,
covered with verdure. At its head is the town of Kagosima and the
island of Sakara.
Cape Chichakoff is about 500 feet high, and has three remarkable
rocks lying close off it, one of which, bearing West from the extreme
of the cape, is of a sugar-loaf shape, and perforated at its base. These,
with a small island lying South about 2 cables, and another East about a
CHAP, x.] KURO-SIWO, OR JAPAN STREAM. VAN DIEMEN STRAIT. 337
quarter of a mile from the pitch of the cape, will enable the seaman at
all times to recognize this headland with certainty.
Soundings from 25 to 40 fathoms, were obtained by H.M.S. Roebuckt
in 1859, between the parallels of 31 and 32 N., and the meridians of
124 and 126 E.; and 8 fathoms in Van Diemen strait, about 2-J- miles
off Cape Chichakoff, the perforated rock of that cape bearing N. E.
ATTCHORAG-E,, In Van Diemen strait, H.M.S. Furious, in 1858, ex-
perienced a strong breeze from the N.E., and being accompanied with a
falling barometer, an anchorage was sought for under and to the westward
of Cape Chichakoff, where the chart by Siebold appears to point out a
small harbour. In searching for this anchorage, soundings were first
obtained in 30 fathoms, with the cape bearing S.S.E., and the vessel
eventually came to in 13 fathoms, abreast a small village near the centre
of the first bay westward of the cape, with the extreme of the cape
bearing S.S.W., Horner peak N.W., and north-west extreme of the
same bay N.N.W. ; here she was well sheltered for thirty-six hours, with
the wind steady between E.N.E. and E.S.E., although it was blowing
heavily outside, as evinced by the heavy gusts off the land and low baro-
meter ; but on its veering to the southward of S.S.E. the bay became too
exposed from that quarter, which rendered it advisable to weigh and
proceed to sea.
There was no opportunity of verifying the existence of the above
harbour ; but there was every appearance of a small but well-sheltered
inlet in the north-east corner of the bay in \vhich the Furious anchored,
which, if examined, might prove of great service to vessels meeting with
adverse Avinds, when bound eastward through Van Diemen strait.
OHOSAKA BAY, formed at the south-west part of Xipou, is 35 miles
deep, N.E. and S.W., and is bounded to the south by a peninsula, and to
the west by the large, mountainous, and wooded island of Awadji. The
shores of the bay are in general high and thickly wooded ; in some places,
however, they are low and sandy. A very considerable coasting trade is
carried on. Ohosaka is one of the five Imperial cities and has a large
population. It stands on the north-east shore of the bay, on the left
bank of the Sedogawa, a small stream which has its source in the lake
Oity, at a day and a half journey into the interior ; large boats can pass
up to Miako, and the river is crossed by several bridges. At the river's
mouth are two large towers ; the position of the tower before the
city is lat. 34 41' 38" N., long. 135 29' 27" E. The depth in the mouth
of the river is sufficient to allow boats to enter to procure water.
Two small islands, lying between Awadji and the peninsula, divide
the entrance of the bay into three straits, of which the widest is the
[C.] T
338 JAPAN ISLANDS. [CHAP. x.
western. The centre strait, between the islands, is narrow and rocky.
The eastern or Dzinosetto strait, is between Dzino island and the
peninsula. In approaching this latter strait from the southward, through
the Kino channel, a mountainous and wooded headland, with a small
summer-house on its summit, will be first seen on the eastern shore-
Steer for this headland on a North bearing, and pass it at half
a mile distant ; a reef extends 3 cables from it. Farther, in a small
bay running into the peninsula, is the town of Kada, the position of
which is lat. 34 14' 28" N., long. 135 4' 20" E. After passing this
reef a N. by E. course will lead into the middle of the strait, from
the points on both sides of which rocky reefs extend 1^ cables. The
depth obtained in the strait was 16 fathoms, over a bottom of sand and
small shells.
From this strait the bay is quite clear to the city of Ohosaka, the course
to which is N.E. There is anchorage on either side of the bay ; the
depths are less on the eastern than on the western shore, where there
is anchorage only in a few small bays. Within 2 miles of the city the
water shoals, and vessels should nqt go into less than 4 fathoms, for
there is sometimes a heavy swell. The rise of tide is about 2\ feet.
PORT rioGO* is in the north-west part of Ohosaka bay, abreast of
Ohosaka, from which it is distant 10 miles. This port by treaty is open
for trade, and it probably will be the principal trading port with the empire
of Japan. The Japanese have expended a large sum of money to improve
the anchorage, and they have built a breakwater. The town is said to be
as large as Nagasaki.
ENOKA BAT, on the eastern shore of Tutomi gulf and in lat. 35 10' N.,
long. 138 53' E., is 9 cables long, north and south, and 6 cables deep.
Ara sima, a wooded island affording shelter from westerly winds, lies off
the south point of entrance, and there is a small monument on the north
point. The soundings in the bay are deep, 20 to 30 fathoms, and it is
open to the west, but there is good shelter from all winds in a small bay
in its northern part, where the depth is 13 fathoms over a bottom of
fine sand. |
In steering for this small bay, keep midway between its western shore
and the cliffs on the eastern. A town stands on the western shore.
There is a river in Euora bay, but as water is obtained from it with
difficulty on account of its shallowness, it is best to procure it from the
* Port Hiogo of the French charts.
f The description of Enora, Heda, Arari, and Tago bays is by Lieut. Elkin of the
llussian frigate Diana, 1853-55. See Plans of these Bays, scale, m = l| inches, on
Chart of Nipon Island, No. 2,347, corrected to 1861.
CHAP, x.] SOUTH-EAST COAST OF NIPON. 339
town wells. There is abundance of fish and vegetables. The rise and
fall of tide is about 4 feet.
HEDA BAY, in lat 34 58' 11" N., long. 138 48' E., is 6 cables
in extent north and south, and 5| cables east and west, and carries a
depth of 8 to 22 fathoms over a bottom of fine sand. It is sheltered on
all sides by high mountains. There is a village iu a valley. Six rivers
empty themselves into the bay, but it is preferable to obtain water from
the wells. Fish and vegetables are abundant.
The entrance into this bay is a quarter of a mile wide and open to the
N.W. It is to the northward of a low and sandy spit extending half a
mile in a northerly direction from the southern shore and covered with
wood. The rise of tide is 5^ feet.
ARARX BAT, sheltered also from all winds, is in lat 34 50' N.,
long. 138 46' E. Its extent is 4 cables north and south, and 2 cables
east and west, and the depths are 6 to 12 fathoms over fine sand. The
shores of the bay are mountainous. Water may be conveniently obtained
from the village on the eastern shore ; fish is plentiful.
The entrance is open to the N.W. ; in entering keep in mid-channel, and
when a small island opens, steer between it and the sandy point to
the S.W. After rounding this point the course is South for the middle
of the bay, where the depth is 7 fathoms.
TAGO BAY, in lat. 34 47' 3" N., long. 138 46' E., is 4 cables in
extent north and south, and half a mile wide, is sheltered from all winds,
and carries a depth of 12 to 20 fathoms, soft mud bottom. There is a
small town here, and water can be obtained from the wells. Fish and
vegetables can be procured.
In steering for the entrance of this bay, which is also open to the N.W.
two islands (lying half a mile W.N.W. from the south point of entrance)
will be seen, with rocks and breakers extending to the southward from
them. Pass to the northward of these islands, between them and the
mainland. After passing about a cable to the northward of another
island, lying off the south point of entrance, steer S.E. for the middle of
the bay, where there is anchorage in 13 fathoms.
DIRECTIONS. These four bays just described will serve as a refuge
from S.W. winds, which cause a great swell in Tutomi gulf. Their coasts
are wooded and mountainous, attaining the height of 1,000 feet. The
entrances must be approached fearlessly, for the high coast conceals them,
and the bays only open when within a mile.
The whole of the western coast of the Idsu peninsula is shelving, and
may be safely approached to 2 miles ; islands lie off it, but not beyond
Y 2
340 JAPAN ISLANDS. [CHAP. x.
the distance of a mile. The current is stronger along the shores than m
the middle of the gulf.
SIIVIODA HARBOUR is near the south-eastern extremity of the penin-
sula of Idsu, which terminates at the cape of that name in lat.
34 36' N., long. 138 50' 35" E. Cape Idsu will be recognized by a
conspicuous white cliff a short distance to the north-west of it, and a
conical rocky peak a few miles farther to the northward and westward,
forming the south-western extreme of the peninsula. To the northward
of the harbour a high ridge intersects the peninsula ; and south of this,
all the way to the cape, it is broken by innumerable peaks of less eleva-
tion. To the E.S.E. of the cape, distant half a mile, is a rock about
20 feet above water ; and a similar rock lies a third of a mile off Nacane
point.*
Vandalia bluff, on the east side of the entrance to the harbour, will be
known by a grove of pine trees on the summit of the bluff, and the
village of Susaki, which is about a third of the way between it and Cape
Diamond. This cape is a rocky islet, lying immediately off a point at
1^ miles eastward of the entrance, and to the northward of it is the bay
of Sirahama, which is deep, and, as it has several sand beaches, it
may be mistaken for Simoda harbour ; but as it is approached, Cape
Diamond will shut in the Ucona rocks and Rock island to the southward,
while in Simoda road they are visible from all points. The town of
Simoda stands on the west shore of the harbour, and Kakisaki village on
the west. There is good landing for boats in Simoda creek, and also at
the village.
Supplies. Wood, water, fowls, and eggs, also sweet potatoes and other
vegetables, may be procured from the authorities at Simoda. It will be
necessary to supply them with casks to bring the water off.
ROCK ISLAND, about 120 feet high and a third of a mile in length,
with precipitous shores and an uneven outline, bears E. by S. f S. about
o miles from Cape Idsu ; it has a thick matting of grass, weeds, moss, &c.,
on its summit. Between this rock and the main land are a number of
rocks awash and above water, among which the iunks freely pass ; but a
vessel should not attempt to run inside Rock island unless in case of
urgent necessity, particularly as the north-easterly current which sweeps
along this coast, seems to be, at this point, capricious both in direction and
velocity.
From the summit of this island overfalls were seen, bearing N. l W.,
distant a mile or a mile and a half. These may have been caused by a
* See Plan of Simoda Harbour, -with views, No. 2,655 ; scale, m = 3-8 inches.
CHAP, x.] SOUTH-EAST COAST OF NIPON. 341
rock or reef. An attempt was made to find it, but the strong current
and fresh wind prevented a satisfactory examination. The Japanese
fishermen, however, deny the existence of any such danger.
ROCKS, two in number, though they generally appear as one,
bear N. by W., distant 2 miles from Rock island ; the largest is about 70
feet high. Between these and the island the current was found setting
about E.N.E. fully 4 miles an hour.
CENTRE ISLAND lies nearly in the middle of Simoda harbour, and
bears N. i E. 5^ miles from Rock island, and N. by E. 1 E. 3^ miles
from the Ucona rocks. It is high, conical, covered with trees, and a
cave passes entirely through it.
Buisaco islet, a quarter of a mile N.N.E. from Centre island, is about
40 feet high, and covered with trees and shrubs.
SOUTHAMPTON and SUPPLY ROCKS __ There are but two hidden
dangers in Simoda harbour ; the first is Southampton rock, which is in
mifl-channel S. by E. E. 2 cables from south point of Centre island,
and N. -|- W. from Vandalia bluff, about three-fourths of the way between
it and Centre ; it is about 25 feet in diameter, has 2 fathoms water on it,
and is marked by a white spar- buoy. The other is the Supply rock,
bearing S. by W. a short distance from Buisaco or Misana islet ; it is a
sharp rock, with 11 feet water on it, and is marked by a red spar-buoy.
Both of these buoys are securely moored, and the authorities of Simoda
have promised to replace them should they by any cause be removed.
Should the buoy on the Southampton rock be removed, the east end of
Centre island in line with the west end of Buisaco will lead to the
westward.
Off the village of Susaki, at a third of a mile from the shore, is a ledge
of rocks upon which the surf is always breaking ; give them a berth of
2 cables in passing.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, in Simoda harbour at 5h. Om. ;
extreme rise of tide, 5^ feet ; mean rise, 3 feet.
DIRECTIONS In navigating the south-eastern coast of Japan, after
passing Cape Chichakoff, in Van Diemen strait, if the weather be thick, the
vessel's position should be well ascertained before she is hauled to the
north-eastward, as the land appears to trend in an E. by N. direction for
about 10 miles from the pitch of the cape, instead of N.E., as shown in the
present charts. It should also be borne in mind that, as far as our know-
ledge extends, the current on this coast generally runs to the E.N.E. at
the rate of 40 miles a day ; it may, however, be entirely checked for
twenty -four hours by a north-east wind, when it may be again expected
342 JAPAN ISLANDS. [CHAP. x.
to resume its former course, and possibly run with greater rapidity than
usual for one or two days.
Vessels therefore bound to the eastward must allow for this current,
and should keep not more than 30 miles off shore, so as to be enabled, if
necessary, to verify their reckoning by sighting the land. The positions
of the headlands appear to be sufficiently correct for navigation, but
until this coast has been more correctly examined, the mariner is
warned not to place implicit reliance on any chart, and to be prepared
to meet with unknown dangers. In approaching the Gulf of Yedo, the
remarkable high mountain of Fuzi-yama (page 334), so different in form
from any other land in its vicinity, cannot fail to be of great service in
directing vessels either to Simoda or Yedo ; Cape Idsu is in line with it
when bearing N. ^ E.
Vessels bound to Simoda harbour from the southward and Ave.stward
should make Cape Idsu, from which Rock island bears E. by S. f S.,
distant about 3 miles ; and if the weather is at all clear, the chain of
islands off the Gulf of Yedo will at the same time be plainly visible.
Omae saki, the west point of entrance to Tutomi gulf, cannot be mis-
taken for Cape Idsu, the former being low, with a sandy beach and low
sand hills, with occasional patches of trees, extending 30 or 40 miles to the
westward ; whereas the cape is high and rocky, and its summit generally
hidden in the clouds. Rock island being low, unless the weather is
clear, will not be seen until long after the cape and Volcano island.
Giving Rock island a berth of a mile, the harbour will be in full view,
bearing N. -| W. distant 5 miles. Standing in from this island, a vessel
will probably pass through a number of tide rips, but no soundings will
be obtained with the hand lead until near the entrance of the harbour,
when the depth will be 14 to 27 fathoms. Should the wind be from the
northward and fresh, she should anchor at the mouth of the harbour until
it lulls or shifts, or until she can conveniently warp in, as it is usually
flawy and always baffling.
Approaching from the northward and eastward, a vessel can pass on
either side of Oho sima or Vries island, from the centre of which Cape
Diamond bears W. by S. S., distant about 20 miles. Between Oho sima
and Simoda, no dangers are known to exist ; but the north-easterly cur-
rent must be borne constantly in mind, particularly at night and in thick
weather. Its general strength is from 2 to 3 knots per hour ; but as this,
as well as its direction, is much influenced by the local winds, headlands,
islands, &c., neither can be relied upon.
Should Oho sima be obscured by thick weather, before reaching Cape
Diamond endeavour to sight Rock island, for there are no conspicuous
objects on the main land by which a stranger can recognize the harbour at
CHAP, x.] SOUTH-EAST COAST OF NIPON. 343
a distance, and the shore appears as one unbroken line. To the westward
of the harbour there are several sand beaches, and three or four sand
banks ; these can be plainly discerned when within 6 or 8 miles, and are
good landmarks.
Approaching from the southward and eastward, pass westward of Kozu
sima, from which the harbour bears N. by W. ^ W. distant about
26 miles.
In the outer road, or mouth of the harbour, a disagreeable swell is
sometimes experienced ; but inside the Southampton rock and Centre
island vessels are well sheltered, and the water comparatively smooth.
Moor with open hawse to the south-west. The bottom throughout is mud.
BAY. Cape Sagami, in lat. 35 6' N., long. 139 42f E.,
bears N.E. | E. 44 miles from Cape Diamond, and forms the south-west
extreme of the Uraga channel, leading into the bay of Yedo, which is
12 miles wide, 30 miles deep, with excellent holding ground, and capable
of sheltering the fleets of the world. The survey of this bay, by the
U.S. Naval Expedition to Japan in 1854, embraced the western shore
only, from Cape Kamisaki to Beacon point, there being no opportunity
of examining the eastern side. The soundings from Treaty point, across
in an E.S.E. direction, are regular, and 3 fathoms were found about 1-|
miles from the opposite shore. A reconnoissance was made of the
western shore only of the Uraga channel.*
Supplies. At Yoku-hama, on the western shore of Yedo bay, the
Japanese authorities supplied the vessels of the squadron with wood,
water, a few vegetables, fowls, eggs, oysters, and clams.
DIRECTIONS. When bound to Yedo bay from the southward, pass
westward of the chain of islands lying off the Gulf of Yedo, but beware
not to mistake the deep bay of Wodawara or Kawatsu for the en-
trance of the Uraga channel, for on the north-east side of this bay
there is a ledge of rocks extending several miles from the shore, and
bearing about N.W. by W., distant 5 miles from Sakura point, and upon
which one of the American squadron grounded. A stranger without
a correct chart is liable to make this mistake, as the opening of the
channel is not seen at a distance from this quarter, the shore appearing
as an unbroken line.
The entrance of the Uraga channel bears N.E. f N. distant about 25
miles from Oho sima. Steer in upon this line, and the saddle hill to the
northward of Cape Sagami will be readily recognized, as well as the
round black knob on the eastern side of the channel. When nearing
* See Plan of Yedo Bay and Harbour, with views, No. 2,657 ; scale, m = one inch.
344 JAPAN ISLANDS. [CHAP. x.
the channel the Plymouth rocks will be plainly seen on its western side ;
pass half a mile to the eastward of these to clear the Ingersoll patch, a
sunken rock with but 6 feet water on it, and the only known danger in
the channel. Between these rocks and Cape Kamisaki the ground is clear
and the anchorage good, if care be taken to get pretty well in, so as to
avoid the strong tides which sweep around the latter with great rapidity.
A spit extends a short distance to the southward from this cape, but to
the northward of the cape the shore is bold and the water deep.
After rounding Cape Kamisaki, if bound to the city of Yedo, steer
N.W. N. until Perry island bears South, when Webster island will bear
West ; this will clear the Saratoga spit, which extends well out from the
eastern shore. Then haul up N. by E., and run on this course until
Treaty point bears S.W. by W., which keep on this bearing by steering
N.E. by E. until the beacon on Beacon point bears N.W., when good
anchorage will be found in 15 fathoms water. At this point the survey
terminated ; a clear channel, however, was found with plenty of water
for the largest vessels several miles farther northward, and within a few
miles of the city.
* " As far as Beacon point the American chart appears to be correct,
and the directions given sufficient for navigating the bay. The Saratoga
spit, however, is dangerous, and great caution is. necessary in passing it.
By rounding Cape Kamisaki at not more than a mile distant, and hauling
up N.W. when abreast it, or even more westerly, keeping Perry island
half a point on the port bow, a vessel will ensure clearing the spit.
From abreast Treaty point, and 2 miles from it, a N.E. course is re-
commended, instead of a more easterly one, on account of the eastern
point of Yedo harbour, which bears N.E. ^ E. 9 miles from Beacon house,
having also a projecting and very steep spit off it. Beacon point is well
marked by this house, which is very distinct ; the opposite point has
nothing to distinguish it. A bank extends a good 2 miles from the house
when it bears North. In approaching the point, therefore, from the south-
ward, do not come within 1\ miles of it, nor stand into less than 10
fathoms, while the beacon on the point is between the bearings of N. by E.
and W. by S.
Having passed Beacon house at not within 2i miles, continue steering
N.E. until the house bears W. l N., when if that distance off the point
the soundings will be 12 fathoms, and no vessel should come within that
depth. A N.N.E. course may then be steered, taking care not to shoal
the water under 10 fathoms until the house bears S.W., when the
Japanese ships and forts will be seen bearing about N.W. The course
* Stephen Court, Master of H.M.S. Furious, 1858.
CHAP, x.] EAST COAST OF NIPON. 345
will then be N.W. and N.N.W. to the anchorage, the water shoaling so
regular and gradual, that a berth may be taken in any convenient depth.
The Furious anchored in 15 feet, at low water, over a bottom of soft
mud, good holding ground, with five well constructed and armed forts
immediately in front of the western part of the city bearing from
N. -J W. to N. W., Beacon house S. ^ W., and the peak of Fuzi-zama W. -| N.
(N. 87 42' W. true), distant about 50 miles."
American Anchorage. If bound to American anchorage, from Cape
Kamisaki, steer N.W., and anchor in 8 or 10 fathoms water with Perry
island bearing S.S.E., and Webster island S.W. by 8.
Powhattan Bay. There is good anchorage in this bay in 6 or 7 fathoms
water. Near the anchorage there are two snug coves, in which vessels
may conveniently repair and refit.
susquenanna Bay, at 3 miles W.N.W. from Cape Kamisaki, is well
sheltered, but it contains a number of reefs and rocks, and is, therefore,
not recommended as an anchorage.
Mississippi Bay, at 4 miles to the northward of American anchorage, is
well sheltered from the prevailing winds. Upon anchoring it is necessary
to give the shore a good berth, to avoid a shoal which extends out from
half to three-quarters of a mile. The conspicuous headland or yellow
bluff on the north side of this bay is called Treaty point; a shoal surrounds
the point from two-thirds of a mile to a mile distant.
Between the American anchorage and Treaty point the soundings are
irregular, shoaling suddenly from 12 to 5 fathoms on banks of hard
sand.
Yoku-hama Bay is immediately to the northward of Treaty point,
and N.N.W. 14 miles from Cape Kamisaki. To reach this anchorage
steer for the wooded bluff, which terminates the high land on the north
side of the bay, on a N. by W. ^ W. bearing, until Treaty point
bears S.W. by S.; this clears the spit off the point ; then haul up about
N.W. by N. for the bluff over the town of Kanagawa, and anchor in 5^ or
6 fathoms, with the Haycock just open eastward of Mandarin bluff, which
is the steep bluff a mile northward of Treaty point.
A flat extends one to two miles from the northern shore of this bay,
between Kanagawa and Beacon point. There is also a shoal projecting a
mile northward from Mandarin bluff.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, in Yoku-hama bay, in the
bay of Yedo, at 6h. Om., and the greatest rise is 6 feet.
The tidal streams run strong in the middle of Yedo bay, and off the tail
of the Saratago spit, Perry island, and Cape Kamisaki, their velocity is
much increased ; but in Yoku-hama bay they are scarcely felt.
346 JAPAN ISLANDS. [CHAP. x.
DIRECTIONS from YEDO to STRAIT of TSUGAR. Vessels boiuul
along the eastern coast of Nipon, from the bay of- Yedo to the eastern
entrance of the strait of Tsugar, may pass within a few miles of Capes
Susaki* and Sirofama, after which they will experience the full force of
the current setting them to the E.N.E.
Caution is requisite in doubling Cape Blanco, a bold chalky bluff,
as the American squadron passed over the edge of a reef in 22
fathoms water S.S.E. from this cape, distant about 5 miles, and from
the heavy overfalls, in which fishing boats were anchored, there must be
much less water upon its shoalest part. As it was near nightfall it was
impossible to examine this reef, but its position is about lat. 35 8' N.,
long. 140 34' E., and Cape Blanco in lat. 35 13' N., long. 140 32^' E.f
From this cape to Tsugar strait no dangers were seen,:}: nor did
the squadron approach the coast sufficiently near to test the accuracy
of the charts, until arriving off Cape Nambu, the north-east point of
Nipon. From the northward and eastward, at the distance of 6 or 8
miles, the outline of this point resembles the back of a sperm whale, with
its head to the southward, the Dodo rocks, off the point, forming the
flukes. On nearing the entrance of the strait, the water thermometer
suddenly falls 15 or 20, as the vessel runs from the north-easterly
current into the cold current setting through the strait. From Cape
Nambu a N.W. by W. course made good will [lead to Hakodadi head*
(page 360).
WEST COAST OF NTPON.
August 15th. At 11 p.m. the Saracen weighed from Hakodadi, and
cleared the strait of Tsugar at noon on the 16th. On the 17th at
noon, in lat. 40 44' N., long. 139 14' E., the left extreme of the land
near Cape Gamaley bore E. ^ N., and the right extreme S.E. by E. E. ;
off shore about 20 miles. Since yesterday the current set the vessel 20
miles to the N.N.E., and a heavy southerly swell.
* On the north side of Cape Susaki there is an excellent harbour, named Susaki bay,
which affords excellent shelter from north, round easterly, to W.N.W. Mr. McDonald,
Commander of the ship Medina, 1860. See Plan of Susaki Bay, on Chart of Nipon,
No. 2,347.
f These positions are doubtful, as the unfavourable -weather prevented observations
near them. They are probably 6 or 8 miles too far eastward.
{ The Russian frigate Arkold reports the existence of a reef in lat 36 15' N., long.
141 28' E.; but this position must be considered as doubtful, as the vessel had no obser-
vations for two days previous to seeing the reef. The Highflyer passed within a mile of
it on an unusually bright moonlight night, and saw nothing. Edward H. Hills, Master
H.M.S. Highflyer, 1859.
The description of this coast is by John Richards, Master Commanding H.M-
surveying vessel Saracen, 1855.
CHAP, x.] WEST COAST OF NIPON. 347
BITTERN ROCKS. At 4 p.m. on the 17th the Bittern rocks bore
S. by E. about 3^ miles ; altered course to S.W. by S., and brought them
abeam at the distance of 1^ miles. This group of three small rocks,
two above water and one awash, was discovered by H.M.S. Bittern,
8th July 1855. They lie close together, within the space of 2 cables'
lengths, steep-to on their western side, having 15 and 17 fathoms at the
distance of 2 cables, and no bottom with 140 fathoms at 11 miles. The
face of the rocks were covered with seals, which were with difficulty
dislodged, the larger ones barking and snarling in a vicious manner, and
carrying off musket balls from within 10 yards' distance without any
apparent inconvenience.
The south-western or largest rock, in lat. 40 31' N., long. 139 31' E.,
and lying W. by S. about 15 or 17 miles from Cape Gamaley, is about 15
feet high, and in size and appearance resembles the hull of a vessel of about
200 tons. The smaller rock, lying rather more than a cable E.N.E. from
the larger one, is about 7 feet high, and has broken water extending from
it about a third of a cable to the northward. The third rock, awash, lies
to the S.E. of these two, forming nearly an equilateral triangle with them.*
OGA SIM; A PEzarxrsTTX,A. On the 18th, at noon, in lat. 40 lO' N.,
long. 139 6' E., current East 4 miles, the right extreme of the land
of Oga sima bore S.E. by E. From this it would appear that the whole
peninsula of Oga sima is placed about 12 miles too far south on Krusen-
stern's chart. From noon the Saracen ran S.W. by S. 10 miles, when
Oga sima (centre) was abeam, and bore S.E. by E. 15 or 20 miles.
TABU SIMA. At daylight on the 19th saw Tabu sima.f At
oh. 10m. a.m. it bore S.E. by E. | E. five or six leagues. At noon, in
lat. 39 13' N., long. 138 21' E., current North 10 miles, a very high,
peak (the only land in sight) bore E. f S. The position of Tabu sima
was fixed from the above bearing at 5h. 10m. a.m., and another taken at
10 a.m. At the latter position the island was very indistinct (it had been
covered with mist in the interval). This would place Tabu sima in
39 31' N., 138 53' E., and give it an elevation of 610 feet. The weather
being fine, the vessel pressed on, hoping to fix some of the points of Sado
island before sunset, but owing to the great error in its position (it appears
on Krusenstern's chart 43 miles too far north), the Saracen did not get
up to the north point of the island before late, when she rounded to for
the night.
* See Chart of Nipon, Kiusiu, and Sikok, and part of the Coast of Korea, No. 2,347 ;
scale, d = 2-3 inches ; corrected to 1861.
t Owing to hazy weather, Mr. Richards appears to have mistaken the high land on
the main for Tabu sima, the position of which has been subsequently found by H.M.S.
Actceon to be in lat. 39 12' N., long. 139 35' E.
348 JAPAN ISLANDS. [CHAP. x.
SADO ISLAND. At daylight on the 29th bore up for the north
point of Sado island, and at 9 a.m. shaped a course for the south-west
point, and commenced observations for a track survey of the western side.
The island is high, bold, and safe of approach ; but no place like an
anchorage was seen.
There are two flat rocks about 40 feet high, and one remai'kable conical
rock, 700 feet high, off the northern point of the island ; the Cone rock
is in lat. 38 18' N., long. 138 32' E. The west point of the island,
in 38 01' N., 138 17' E., has a bold and clean shore, and from thence
the coast recedes to the south-eastward, and is low ; two large gaps in
the coast line were observed, probably the entrance to harbours, as some
Japanese fishermen, who visited the ship, pointed in that [direction, and
appeared to wish her to proceed thither. The north point of the island
rises somewhat abruptly to an elevation of 3,800 feet, from whence the
land, descending slightly, runs in rocky ridges to the south-west for 9
miles, and terminates in a sharp nipple of 4,500 feet elevation. From
thence the land descends in a gentle uniform slope until it meets the low
lands at the southern part of the island.
In sailing along its western shore numerous villages were seen, and the
ground appeared highly cultivated. The fishermen came on board without
hesitation when invited, and evinced great curiosity at everything they
saw. Their behaviour was respectful, and they received with gratitude
the trifling presents made them.
PORT TJIEGATA, ' on the west coast of Nipon, was opened for trade
in 1860. The coast in the environs is formed of low sand hills ; the
entrance from the offing is only to be made out by the masts of junks
which are at anchor. In fresh breezes from seaward the sea breaks
across the entrance, and at that time not even a boat could take the pass
without risk. The best anchorage, at Sado island, is abreast the village
of Oda, where a vessel may be anchored so as to be sheltered from all
winds during the winter. The shores in the environs of Sawa-umi bay
at the south-west part of this island, are, well peopled and the land well
cultivated. The Japanese inhabiting Sado are tolerably civilized and
well disposed to trade with Europeans,
YTJTSI SXMA At daylight on the 24th, Cape Noto bore from the
Saracen, South about 20 miles ; steered West forYutsi sima. At 10a.m.
saw the Astrolabe rock from the mast head, bearing about S.W., and
shortly afterwards Yutsi sima about W. N. At noon, in lat. 37 49' N.,
long. 137 9' E., current W. by N. N., 17 miles, Yutsi sima was found
* Renseignements Hydrographiques sur les lies du Japon, 2nd edition, 1860, page 191.
CHAP, x.] WEST COAST OF NIPON. 34Q
to be in lat. 37 50^' N., 136 55' E.; Astrolabe rock in 37 35' N.
136 54' E.; Cape Noto in 37 28' N., 137 22' E.
Yutsi sima is 40 feet high, about two-thirds of a mile in diameter,
level, and cultivated ; there are a few stunted -trees on it, and a small
village on its southern side. With the island bearing N.N.W. 5 miles,
the depth was 46 fathoms, fine sand, and regular soundings both on
approaching and leaving it.
The Astrolabe rock, 200 feet high, and about a quarter or a third of
a mile in diameter, is the largest and highest of a rocky group of five,
which extend nearly 1^ miles in a N.E. and S.W. direction, and vary
from 200 to 70 feet in height.
CAPE NOTO is elevated about 700 or 800 feet, the land rising to the
westward of it to 1,200 feet. At the distance of 12 miles W. by S. from
the cape there is a remarkable white cliff that shows well to the west-
ward ; from this cliff the coast bends in to the southward and forms a bay.
The opposite point of the bay is about 8 miles distant, and immediately
above it is a sharp peak elevated 2,000 feet, which is the highest point in
the neighbourhood, the land being generally level and of an uniform
height of about 600 or 700 feet. At 10 miles W. by S. from this point, or
30 miles W. by S. from Cape Noto, the coast trends away sharp to the
southward. None of those rocks and islands were seen which so thickly
stud the coast in Krusenstern's chart, although, as the Saracen passed at
the distance of 19 miles, it is possible that small rocks may exist close in
shore.
OKI ISLANDS. On the 25th, at 6h. 15m. p.m., observed the Oki
islands bearing S.W. about 20 miles. At 7h. 15m. p.m. the land bore
S.W. about 15 miles, which would make it agree very nearly with the
reckoning.
At daylight on the 26th, squally with rain ; weather very threatening.
Saw the Oki group, consisting of two large islands and a number of small
islets and rocks ; they lie N.E. and S.W. of each other, and occupy an
extent of 28 miles in that direction. There is an open and apparently
safe channel 4 miles wide between the two large islands.
The north-east or largest island, about 9 miles in diameter, has a
number of detached high rocks close to its northern point, which is steep
and cliffy. The south-west extreme of this island is remarkable from its
terminating in a high steep bluff ; the south-east point is comparatively
low. The highest point of the island was estimated at 3,000 feet elevation,
but no indication of a port, nor even the prospect of tolerable anchorage,
was observed along its western shore.
350 JAPAN ISLANDS. [CHAP. x.
The south-east island is about 5 or 6 miles in diameter, and being
deeply indented by bays, it is probable good anchorage may be found.
The north point of this island rises to a sharp peak of 1,700 feet elevation;
all the rest of the island is about one-half that height. It appears to
be thickly populated, and the hills are cultivated to their very summits.
There are three or four small islands lying eastward of it, separated
by channels apparently not exceeding half a mile wide, but they appear
rocky and precipitous.
A track survey was made of the west side of this group, and the sun
peeping out for a minute enabled us to get the time, but bad weather
setting in soon after prevented our completing what was begun, and for
the latitude of the north point we are indebted to Mr. Collingwood, who
passed it near noon on two several occasions in the hired steamer Tartar.
Taking this latitude 36 30' N., our chronometers place the north point of
the north-east island in long. 133 23' E. At sunset the Saracen was
scudding before a fresh gale from N.N.E. with sharp squalls from N.W.
and much rain.
SIMA. At daylight on the 27th, saw Mino sima bearing
S.S.E. about 15 miles. The centre of this island is in lat. 34 48' N.,
long. 131 9' E., and rises to an elevation of 484 feet. The island is
nearly 2 miles in diameter, with cliffy sides, except to the north-east,
where there appeared to be a sandy bay. It appeared steep-to, and
quite safe of approach on all sides. The south-east point has a large
square rock lying off it at the distance of half a cable. With the island
bearing South about 12 miles, sounded in 45 fathoms, sand and coral,
and from this position an even bottom was carried towards the land with
very little decrease in the soundings.
CAPE X.OTTZSA At noon, in lat. 34 44' N., long. 131 22' E.,
(Mino sima was found to be placed on Krusenstern's chart 28 miles
N.E. b. E. of its true position,) a remarkable sharp peak on the eastern
extreme of the mainland bore E.S.E. about 9 miles ; this was named
Cape Louisa. The western extreme bore S.W. by W. about 25 miles, and
appeared about 700 feet high, tapering towards the sea, where it is about
500 feet high ; it may be easily known by a remarkable Square rock or
hill on the point, about 200 feet high, which being entirely detached from
the high land at the point, gives it the appearance of an island. At 7 or 8
miles E. by N. from this point there appeared to be a fine port ; the
eastern point of its entrance is marked by a sharp cone of about
700 feet elevation. Between Square rock point and Cape Louisa there is
a deep bay, with many islands in it, generally elevated about 200 feeb
CHAP, x.] WEST COAST OF NIPON. 351
flat-topped, with cliffy inaccessible sides. The outer island, which is
about midway between Cape Louisa and Square rock point, and just
within the chord of the bay, was named Richards island.
Cape Louisa is in 34 40' N., 131 36' E., and the sharp peak
immediately above it is elevated 1,800 feet. Richards island is in
34 32' N., 131 18' E., and elevated 400 feet, Square rock point is
in 34 27' X., 130 59' E.
and OBREE ISLANDS. At daylight on the 29th, Coluet
island bore X.X.W. ^ W. about 14 miles. A new island bearing W.S.W.
12 miles was named Obree island ; it is half a mile in diameter, and
elevated 500 feet, and is in lat. 33 51' N., long 130 02' E. The north
point of Kiusiu island was not seen, but there was a mass of islands in
that direction, the outer one of which was named Wilson, and the point
inside, Winchester point.
WILSON isiiAxra is about 1^ miles in diameter, and remarkable
from its prominent position as the outer and northern island of the Kiusiu
group, as well as from its sharp peak, in lat. 33 54' IS"., long. 130 25' E. f
forming a conspicuous landmark visible nearly 30 miles. At lOh. 30m.
p.m. the Saracen anchored with kedge in 22 fathoms, Cone rock bearing
W. by N. and Obree island N. by W. ; but at daylight a reef of rocks
was observed about 2 cables to the southward of her. The western
stream or flood made here at 5h. 30m., which, supposing a regular tide,
would give the turn of stream, on full and change days, at about 3h. Om. ;
no tidal stream was found at a greater distance than 5 miles from the
land. After weighing, a number of Japanese government boats hove in
sight from between the islands to the eastward, and after passing disap-
peared among the islands to the westward ; they were supposed to be
going to Nagasaki, through the Firando channel.
At noon on the 30th, in 33 40' N., and 130 2' E., Cone rock bore
N. 60 W. 1^ miles. Wind light, with frequent calms. At 8 p.m.
drifted to the westward within 1^ miles of the north point of an island,
and anchored when the western stream stopped, which took place about
lOh. 20m. p.m. In the morning weighed and made sail, working to the
westward against light airs and frequent calms.
Not a single point on Krusenstem's chart could be recognized, and the
Saracen was surrounded by innumerable islands in every variety of form
and size ; but as they are generally safe of approach, and the adjacent
seas seem singularly free from danger, they will offer no impediment to
navigation when properly surveyed. At present no vessel should attempt
to pass inside Yki island and Wilson island in the night, or during
352 JAPAN ISLANDS. [CHAP. x.
thick weather, although during the light airs and calms which frequently
prevail in the Japan sea in the month of August, a well-manned ship
proceeding to the southward would benefit considerably by keeping in
shore, out of the north-easterly current, and taking advantage of the
tides by dropping a kedge when unable to make way. The soundings
obtained along the coast showed a remarkably even bottom ; generally
about 50 fathoms at 10 miles from the outer islands, decreasing to 20
fathoms close to and along them.
Firando island was expected to have been sighted, and it was then
intended to have passed between it and Kiusiu, but not seeing it, the
Saracen still coasted along, carefully tracing the outline of the outer
islands and narrowly examining every opening. On rounding the north-
east point of a large island (Harbour island) bearing S.W. by S. 13 miles
from Yki, a fine bay was observed about three-quarters of a mile wide,
which appeared a promising anchorage. After rounding the north part
of this island the Saracen hauled in for a bay to .the S.E. distant about
7 miles, and anchored at midnight in 32 fathoms.
YICITSK ISLAND. On the 1st September, at daylight, the Saracen
weighed and worked up between two islands for shelter, and the weather
having set in thick and stormy from the southward, she anchored inside
the outer island in a snug bay off a Japanese village about a quarter
of a mile from the shore in 7 fathoms. Soon after anchoring she was
boarded by a Japanese boat, containing several respectably dressed
officials, who seemed by their manner desirous of knowing what was
wanted. After comprehending the purport of her visit, and satisfying
their curiosity by a minute inspection of the ship, and taking numerous
notes, they departed.
Early the next morning an official visit was paid by the authorities. They
readily pointed out the direction of Nagasaki but they could not be prevailed
on to give a pilot. The island the Saracen anchored under they called
Ykitsk, and the large one to the eastward Firado (Firando they did not
appear to know). They stated at first, that there was a channel east of
Firado, but afterwards when they saw the vessel proceeding in that direc-
tion, they came off in haste, and intimated by signs that there was not
.sufficient depth of water in it. Whilst thus engaged on board, Mr. Obree
(my assistant) landed on the western part of Firado, at the narrowest
part of the channel between it and Ykitsk, and was fortunate enough
to secure equal altitudes for time, as well as the sun at noon ; he also
sounded the channel across, and ascertained that it was quite clear, and
had a depth of 14 fathoms in the middle.
CHAP, x.] WEST COAST OF KIUSIU. 353
A breeze springing up just as the boat returned the Saracen weighed,
and ran for the north point of Firado.island, with the intention of passing
through, or proving the impracticability of the channel to the eastward of
that island ; but after proceeding about 4 miles in that direction, she was
becalmed, and came to with stream anchor in 30 fathoms off the entrance
to an apparent harbour.
HARBOUR ISLAND. On the 3rd, at 8 a.m., with a light breeze from
the northward, and occasional rain squalls, weighed, and worked to wind-
ward against a freshening breeze from the north, and passed between the
two outer islands north of Firado. The outer and largest island is about
5 miles long in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction, and 2 miles broad, and
has a fine bay or harbour, Port Lindsey, on its south side, as well as the
deep bay before noticed on the north-west ; it was therefore named
Harbour island. After passing between the islands, bore up for the
channel (Spek strait)* eastward of Firado, but on nearing it, it appearing
so narrow and unpromising, hauled to the wind again, and passing
inside all the islands west of Firado, rounded its south point at 4 p.m.,
and shaped a course for Nagasaki.
None of the rocks or islands laid down on this line in Krusenstern's
chart could be recognized, but a broad deep channel was found to
Nagasaki, and not more islands than just sufficient to make good land-
marks in cloudy weather. At midnight passed between the two outer
islands of a group marked in the chart as 22 miles N.N.W. of Nagasaki
(but which the reckoning placed only 12 miles N.W.), and fearing to
run past the place, anchored for the night in 32 fathoms. Weighed at
daylight and proceeded towards Nagasaki with a light air from the
northward, and anchored at noon in the outer harbour.
The Saracen remained in this port until the 1st October, when she
weighed and proceeded towards Cape Gotto for observations, but finding
a fresh gale blowing outside, hauled up for Kabe sima, and entering the
third channel of the old Dutch chart, worked into a snug harbour on
its eastern side, and anchored within a cable's length of a small islet
admirably adapted for an observation spot.
FXRADO ISLAND, lying off the west side of Kiusiu, was visited in
* Lieutenant H.O. "Wieners, of the Dutch Royal Navy, in the year 1857-59 examined
the south and west shores of Kiusiu, and corrected the coast line of Siehold's chart, which
he found 4| miles too far West. He also verified Richard's positions in this locality, in
1855, and states that the channel (Spek strait) ou the east side of Firado, is navigable.
See Chart of Nipon, Kiusiu, and Sikok, and part of the coast of Korea, No. 2,437,
corrected to 1861.
[C.] z
.
354 JAPAN ISLANDS. [CHAP, x,
1859 by H.M.S. Roebuck, on her passage from Hong Kong to Japan.
and a spacious harbour found on its north-west side.
The harbour runs east and west, is 2^ or 3 miles deep, and sheltered
from all winds. A good guide to recognize its position is a small island
lying off the north point of entrance. There are three islets in the
harbour, and good anchorage in 4 fathoms was found between the southern
islet and the shore. There is a deep bay running in a southerly direc-
tion, inside the southern point of entrance, but there was no tune for its
examination.
CROUP. The relative positions of the Meac-sima or
Asses Ears group, and Pallas rocks, not having been accurately deter-
mined, the Saracen steered for the first-named group, but the wind being
light, did not come up with them until the evening of the following day,
when she lay to for the night, and kept her position pretty well by the
lead, finding bottom in from 80 to 85 fathoms.
The Meac-sima group are two email islands, extending nearly 4 railed
in a N.E. and S.W. direction, but not more than a mile broad.
Taka sima, the north-east island, is nearly 1^ miles long, and three-
quarters of a mile wide. It is elevated 610 feet above the sea, and
nearly level at the top, with cliffy precipitous sides, excepting to the
southward, where there appeared to be some shelter for fishing junks.
as several were observed at anchor ; in clear weather it may be seen
upwards of 30 miles.
Kusa-saki, the south-west island, is less than half the size of the
north-east island, but 100 feet higher and very craggy ; its remarkable
peak, which is in lat. 32 2' 47" N., long. 128 30' 42" E., probably
suggested the name of the group to its first discoverers.
Me sima and Wo sima, the intermediate small islands and rocks,.
are high and cliffy, the latter partaking generally of the sugar-loaf
form.
The only outlying rocks noticed extend South about a third of a mile
from the south-west island, and may be almost considered part of the
main group.
The approach * to these islands from the northward is quite clear.
Between the Asses Ears and Pallas rocks the ground is pretty even,,
and the general depth is about 81 fathoms.
* The Furious passed about 3 miles from these islands ; but until the ground in
their vicinity has been more minutely examined they should be approached with caution,,
as the sea was seen breaking heavily nearly a mile from the shore. Stephen Court,.
Master, H.M.S. Furious, 1858.
CHAP, x.] WEST COAST OF KIUSIU. 355
PALLAS ROCKS are three in number, two of which lie close
together, and one N.E. 11 cables from the largest, which is the south-
western of the group.
The largest rock does not exceed a third of a cable in diameter, and
is about 60 feet high ; the other two are about one half that elevation.
They are steep-to, and soundings were obtained at the distance of a mile
South from them, in 95 fathoms, sand and shells. The largest rock is in
lat. 32 14' 17" N., long. 128 13' 30" E.
XTDSX SIMA, Parker, or Roche Poncie islands,* are four in number,
the largest of which is about 2 miles in circumference, 1,049 feet above
the sea, and in lat. 31 12' N., long. 129 23' E. Two and a half and
one mile respectively to the south-west of the larger island are two small
islets ; and to the eastward of the peak of the large island, about a mile.
is the fourth islet.!
RETRIBUTION SOCKS, three in number, were discovered by HM.S.
Retribution,\ 6th August 1858. They lie north and south of each other,
about 2 cables apart, in lat. 31 23' N., long. 129 37' E. The two
southernmost rocks rise in a needle form about 60 feet above the sea ;
the northern rock is flat, and only 10 feet high. The vessel passed about
a quarter of a mile to the northward of this group, which appeared to be
steep-to ; no discoloured water was seen, nor bottom obtained with the
hand lead.
KOSZKX ISLANDS (Meac sima of the French chart), consisting of
two large and several small islands, extend in a N.N.E. and S.S.W.
direction from lat. 31 35' to 31 52' N"., and from long. 129 36' to
129 51' E. ; they are very little known, neither are the Nadiejda rocks,
which are supposed to lie in lat. 31 48' N., long. 129 36' E.
TSUKT7RASE ISLANDS. Off the south end of the Kosiki group, at
the distance of 8 miles, are the Tsukurase or Symplegades islands, three
in number, also very imperfectly known. H.M.S. Highflyer passed
about 2 cables to the eastward of them in September 1859, and they are
described as three islets forming a triangle, the sides of which are each
* Thus named (and deservedly so, if an European name is admissible), after the
Ingenieur-hydrographe of the French Expedition under Admiral Cecille in 1846.
j- The Udsi sima are high, and of 1 considerable extent. The easternmost island
appeared larger and its position to be farther north than marked in the chart ; no foul
ground was visible near them. Stephen Court, Master of H.M.S. Furious, 1858.
J These rocks -were subsequently seen by the United States steamer Mississippi, and
named the Mississippi rocks. Captain G. S. Hand, H.M.S. Sampson, 1859.
z 2
356 JAPAN ISLANDS. [CHAP. x.
not more than a cable in extent ; a rock awash was observed lying a
quarter of a mile to the southward of the group.
HARBOUR is formed at the head of a bay running in a
north-east direction on a peninsula at the western extremity of Kiusiu
island. Cape Nomo, the southern point of the bay, is the extreme of a
promontory, which consists of a hill with a split or double summit, and at
a distance has the appearance of an island ; it may also be recognized by
the islets in its vicinity, and in clear weather can scarcely be mistaken
when within the distance of 6 or 7 miles. The city of Nagasaki covers a
plain at the head of the harbour, but it has overgrown its area, the
houses cluster up the spurs of the hills, and the streets are, in places, so
steep as to render steps necessary. The population, in 1858, amounted to
about 70,000.*
The harbour of Nagasaki may be divided into three parts, for it contains
three distinct anchorages ; but the outer ones cannot be recommended at all
seasons, the water being too deep, and the swell too heavy to render
them safe. The first or outer road is westward of Papenberg island ;
the second or middle is to the eastward ; and the third is at the head
of the harbour in front of the city.
The entranqe to the outer road is between the north end of Iwo sima
and Fakuda saki. The anchorage is in from 22 to 25 fathoms, over a
bottom of thick green oaze, with fine sand, good holding ground. A
vessel will lie here sheltered, except from the N.W. ; but as the wind
blows seldom from this direction during the North-east monsoon, and
never very strong, it is quite safe at this season.
The only known danger in this road is the Barracouta rock, lying off
the southern side of Kamino sima ; but the ship Templeman, 23rd July
1860, is reported to have struck on a rock, from which the bluff south
end of Papenberg bore E. by S., and Tree rock N.E. The vessel was
leaving the harbour, the wind was light, and she was passing a rock
which was thought to be the Barracouta.
The anchorage in the middle road, eastward of Papenberg, is in
about 17 fathoms, more towards Papenberg than the eastern shore. To
the N.N.E. of Papenberg, and distant a third of a mile, is a small flat
wooded island, named Nezumi ; and about the same distance farther
in the same direction is the small bay of Kibats, in which there are
6 to 10 fathoms water. This, in all the harbour of Nagasaki, is said to be
the best place to refit a ship, for in the inner road the shore is every-
where so muddy that no ship can approach it.
* See Plan of Nagasaki Bay, No. 2,415 ; scale, m1 inch.
CHAP, x.] WEST COAST OF KIUSIU. 357
From the middle to the inner road, abreast the city, the direction
of the harbour is N.E. ^ N., and the distance 2^ miles, the depth
decreasing gradually from 18 to 5 fathoms. The harbour is not more
than half a mile wide, and in some places only 3 cables. The anchorage
near the city, Avbich stands on the eastern shore, is in about 6 fathoms
over a bottom of thin clay.
Supplies. Coal is abundant at Nagasaki, and will be more so when
the mines, which are reported to be numerous, are worked. Water and
wood, and all supplies, except beef and mutton, are plentiful, cheap, and
easily obtained.
There is a native steam factory, at which small repairs to steamers may
be effected.
TIDES. The time of high water, full and change, in this harbour is
6h. 28m., and the greatest rise 6j feet.
DIRECTION'S.* When leaving the Yang-tse kiaug for the Japan
islands, if bound to Nagasaki, a direct course may at once be steered for
Meac sima, or Asses Ears group, the highest island of which is visible in
clear weather at about 37 miles.f With Meac sima bearing South from
3 to 6 miles, a N.E. by E. course for 62 miles will place a vessel off the
Mitsuse rocks, which lie 3 miles to the north-west of Cape Nomo. The
Mitsuse are in line with this cape when bearing S.E. by S. ; and two
rocks lie off it, one S.E. by S. half a mile, and the other S.W. by W. not
quite that distance ; Kaba sima will also be seen just shutting in with the
cape when bearing S.E. by E.
From the Mitsuse steer for the north-west extreme of Iwo sima,
passing about half a mile to the north-west of two rocky patches
named Kutsnose and Sotonohirase, which are always visible, being just
awash at high water. After rounding Iwo at any convenient distance,
as no apparent danger extends off it, steer about E. | S. for the entrance
of the channel leading to Nagasaki, midway between Papenberg island
and the Hungry rock, passing northward of the Ilirasc Rock, which, like
the Hungry, just covers at high tide.
When the channel leading to the city comes fairly open haul up to the
north-east for it, keeping the western shore aboard while the Dutch
consul's flag-staff bears between E.N.E. and E. by S., to avoid the Desima
shoal, which extends about the third of the way over from the eastern
shore, and narrows the channel considerably. Vessels can anchor in mid-
channel either above this shoal, with the flag-staff to the southward of
* Stephen Court, Master of H.M.S. Furious, 1858.
f Captain Fleetwood Pellew, R.N., recommends that a sailing vessel should make the
land in about lat. 32 48' N., as N.E. winds blow here the greatest part of the year.
358 JAPAN ISLANDS. [CHAT. x.
E. S,, or below it, with the flag-staff to the northward of E.N.E. The
outer anchorages cannot be recommended, the water being too deep and
the swell too heavy tq render them safe. A rocky ledge, which uncovers
at low water, extends about half a cable's length off the western shore
and is marked by a pole beacon, from which the above flag-staff bears
about East.
TSUGAR ISLAND.
The Strait of Tsugar, separating Nipon from Yezo island, is about 40
miles in length in an E.N.E. and W.S.W. direction, 9^ miles wide at
its narrowest part. The following description is by John Richards,
Master Commanding H.M.S. Saracen, who surveyed the strait in 1855 :*
CAPE GAiviAiiEY. In approaching the western entrance of Tsugar
strait from the south-west, the Bittern rocks will be seen lying W. by S.
about 16 miles from Cape Gamaley, page 349. The land about this
cape is moderately elevated and level. The coast between it aud Oho
saki, to the northward, is low and sandy. Sasagota bay (of Krusenstern's
chart), at 6 miles to the southward of Oho saki, appears to be nothing
more than a large shallow lagoon ; its entrance is narrow and barred
right across, with only suflicient depth to admit junks at high water.
Between the bay and Oho saki the coast is safe of approach, having
regular soundings, and fair anchorage in N.E. winds.
OHO SAKI, or Cape Greig, is remarkable from its peculiar form, and
being the commencement of the high land extending to Tatsupi saki,
which bears from it N.N.W. | W., 8^ miles. The bay between these
points, although containing much foul ground, may be useful to a vessel
not able to get through the strait during an easterly gale. The best
anchorage is in 12 fathoms, and three-quarters of a mile off shore, at one-
third the distance from Oho saki to Tatsupi saki. The bottom of the bay
is veiy foul.
TATSUPI SAKI, or Cape Tsugar, the south point of the eastern
entrance to Tsugar strait, is a bluff, 362 feet high, from whence the land
rises to the height of 2,200 feet, at the distance of 4 miles inland. A
large rock, 300 feet high, lies 2 cables to the N.E. of the cape, and is
connected to it by a low neck of sand and stones. On a N.W. and S.E.
bearing this rock makes like an island. The cape is steep-to, but the strong
eddies near it make it prudent not to approach it nearer than a mile.
* See Chart of Strait of Tsugar, No. 2,441 ; scale, m = 0-3 of an inch.
CHAP, x.] TSUGAR STRAIT. 35Q
Gun cliff, at 9 miles E. by S. S. from Tatsupi saki, is steep-to, and
has a battery of six guns on its apex, which is 200 feet high. There is a
remarkable black rocky cliff three-quarters of a mile to the westward.
In the bay between these points, off the town of Memoyah, about half
a mile from the shore in 8 fathoms, there is capital anchorage, indeed the
best in the strait next to Hakodadi. A little to the southward of the
town there is a fine stream of good water, which may easily be obtained.
Wood is also abundant.
After passing Gun cliff the shore is less steep, and bottom will be found
in 30 to 40 fathoms right across to' the opposite coast of the peninsula of
Nambu. From the south point of this coast a steep cliffy shore, with
deep water close to, trends to the northward, nearly in a straight line to
Toriwi saki. The cliffs are coloured with the most brilliant and varied
tints, and, like the entire coasts of the strait, are of basaltic formation,
Among the most remarkable are the Red cliffs, rising to the height of
1,600 feet, at 17 miles to the southward of Toriwi saki. At 9 miles
farther to the northward are two remarkable pointed cliffs, named Double
head. Nearly 2 miles to the 8.W. of this head is a rock 42 feet high ;
and North about 3 cables from this is a rock awash at low water.
TORrwi SAKI is a low tapering point, off which, at the distance of a
cable, is Low islet or Omaski sima, 40 feet high. The ground all around
this cape and islet is very foul, except to the N.E., where a vessel may
anchor to wait tide in 13 fathoms, with the centre of the islet bearing
S.W. by S. distant about a mile. This is a useful anchorage for vessels
approaching Hakodadi from the eastward, particularly during the light
south-westerly winds, common to the strait during the summer months.
There is a tide race, near the full and change of the moon, 3 miles North
of Low islet, and heavy overfalls with a north-east swell. On such
occasions care must be taken to avoid this locality. There is a clear
channel between the race and the islet.
SXRXVA SAKI. From Low islet the coast to the eastward is foul for
about 3 miles, after which it may be approached without fear. At 10^
miles from Low islet is a remarkable red cliff, which shows well to the
westward ; and at 2 miles to the westward of this cliff there is a high
sharp bluff, and a high round bluff 2 miles to the eastward.
From the latter bluff the coast is low to within 4 miles of Siriya saki,
or Cape Nambu, where it rises to 1,265 feet, and descends again towards
the cape in a gentle slope, making at a distance like an island. There is
good anchorage in the deep bay formed between this cape and the red
cliff, but the best is on its western side, abreast the coast line where the
360 JAPAN ISLANDS. [CHAF. x.
high and low land meet, in 15 fathoms, with the above round bluff bearing
W.N.W. 2 miles. Off the cape, at a distance of 3 cables, is a small
white rock 70 feet high. There is also another rock, rather larger, lying
a cable off shore, at 2 miles to the south-west of the cape. The coast
within 4 miles of Cape Nambu is studded with rocks, and altogether
foul.
CAPE YESAN, or Esamu, the north point of the eastern entrance tc*
Tsugar strait, is the east extreme of a bold promontory, with several
remarkable dome-shaped mountains in the rear. The cape itself is a
steep cliff about 600 feet high ; the volcano immediately above it is 1,935
feet high, and frequently capped with a light cloud of steam, but not
otherwise active. The west side of this mountain is covered with patches
of sulphur, having the appearance of snow at a distance. There is
anchorage in the bay about 2 miles westward of the cape ; a kedge or
stream anchor is recommended to be used when unable to make way
against the tide.
At 8| miles S.W. by W. of Cape Yesan is Conical islet, 200 feet high,
lying close to the coast, which in its immmediate neighbourhood is high and
cliffy, and the approach steep and safe : there is, however, a dangerous
low point one mile to the westward ; and at 2% miles to the eastward is
Foul point, which is low, and has a dangerous reef extending 2 cables
from it.
CAPE SIWOXUBI, or Cape Blunt, bears W. f S. 2^ miles from
Conical islet, E. by S. 12 miles from Hakodadi head, and N. by E. f E.
9^ miles from Low islet, which is the narrowest part of the strait.
This cape is steep-to, and the north-east current frequently runs
with greater strength close to the rocks than out in the stream. The
summit of the bluff immediately above the cape is 1,022 feet high ; from
thence the high land ranges in towards the Saddle mountain. The coast
for about 7 miles to the westward is a level plain of an average elevation
of 200 or 300 feet ; beyond 7 miles, it descends to the low beach con-
necting the high land of Hakodadi head with the main.
HAKODADI HEAD is the south extreme of a bold peaked promontory,
1,136 feet high, standing well out from the high land of the main, with
which it is connected by a low sandy isthmus. The head is steep
and precipitous, and safe of approach. At 4-f miles west of the
head is Mussell point, off which a reef extends 2 cables and is steep-to.
The coast from thence to Cape Saraki, at 4^ miles to the S.W., is level
but fringed with rocks, and requires caution in approaching. To the
westward of the cape the shore is low, with a sandy beach safe of
CHAP, x.] TSUGAR STRAIT. 36 1
approach, and clean ground for anchorage to within 3 miles of Cape
Tsiuka.
HAXODADI HARBOUR. Hakodadi bay, on the northern side of
Tsugar strait, is 4 miles wide and 5 miles deep, and for accessibility and
safety is one of the finest in the world. Its entrance is betweeen Hakodadi
head and Mussell point, which bear East and West of each other, distant
4 miles. The harbour is in the south-eastern arm of the bay, and is
completely sheltered, with regular soundings and excellent holding ground.
The town of Hakodadi stands on the north-east slope of the promontory,
facing the harbour, and in 1854 contained about 6,000 inhabitants.*
Supplies. Excellent wood and water may be procured from the
authorities at Hakodadi ; or, if preferred, water can be easily obtained
from Kamida creek, which enters the harbour to the northward and
eastward of the town.
The season, at the time of the visit of the American squadron to this
harbour, in 1854, was unfavourable for procuring supplies ; a few sweet and
Irish potatoes, eggs, and fowls, however, were obtained, and these articles,
at a more favourable period of the year, will no doubt be furnished in
sufficient quantity to supply any vessel that may in future visit the port.
The seine supplied the squadron with fine salmon and a quantity of other
fish, and the shores of the bay abound Avith excellent shell-fish.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, in this harbour at 5h. Om.,
and the extreme rise and fall of tide is 3 feet.
DIRECTIONS. In entering Hakodadi harbour, after rounding Hako-
dadi head, and giving it a berth of a mile to avoid the calms under
the high land, steer for the sharp peak of Komaga-daki, bearing about
North, until the eastern peak of the Saddle mountain, bearing about
N.E. b. N., opens to the westward of the round knob on the side of the
mountain, then haul up to the northward and eastward, keeping them well
open until the centre of the sand hills on the isthmus bears S.E. b. E. f E.
(these may be recognized by the dark knolls upon them). This will
clear a spit which runs in a N.N.W. direction two-thirds of a mile
from the north-western point of the town ;f then bring the sand hills a
* See Plan of Hakodadi Harbour, No. 2,672 ; scale, m 2 inches.
f The north-east end of the fir trees in line with the Joss house clears the eastern side
in 5 fathoms water ; and the foot of the hill in line with the middle of the sandy point
leads along the northern side of the shoal. Captain K. Stewart, H.M.S. Nankin, 1855.
If these leading marks should he in the clouds, as they generally are, keep the
western extreme of the promontory of Hakodadi bearing South or S. W., which will
clear the spit, and haul to the eastward when the centre of the sand hills on the isthmus
bears S.E. b. E. J E. Commodore the Hon. C. Elliot, H.M.S. Sybitte, 1855.
JAPAN ISLANDS. [CHAP. x.
point on the port-bow, and stand in until the north-western point of the
town bears S.W. ^ W., when the vessel will be in the best berth, in 5^
or 6 fathoms water.
If it is desirable to get nearer in, haul up a little eastward of South,
for the low rocky peak which will be just visible over the sloping
ridge to the southward and eastward of the town. A vessel of moderate
draught may approach within a quarter of a mile of Tsuki point, where
there is a building-yard for junks. This portion of the harbour, however,
is generally crowded with vessels of this description ; and unless the want
of repairs or some other cause renders a close berth necessary, it is better
to remain outside.
If the peak or Saddle is obscured by clouds or fog, after doubling the
promontory, steer N.N.E., until the sand hills are brought upon the
bearing above given, when proceed as before directed.
A short distance from the tail of the spit is a detached sand-bank, with
3^ fathoms on it. The outer edge of this is marked by a white spar-buoy.
Between this and the spit there is a narrow channel with 4^ fathoms
water. Vessels of moderate draught may pass on either side of the buoy,
but it will be prudent to go to the northward of it.
Should the wind fall before reaching the harbour, there is good ancho-
rage in the bay, in 25 to 10 fathoms water.
CAPE TSIUXA, at 11 miles S. S.W. of Cape Saraki, is a high cliffy
point, and may be further known by three rocks which extend a quarter
of a mile from a point one mile eastward of it ; the outer rock of the
three is of a conical form and 70 feet high. The land to the westward for
4 miles is high and cliffy ; about half way between the cape and the end
of the cliffs there are two waterfalls.
Vessels can anchor in the bight of the bay, between Capes Tsiuka and
Sirakami ; but as a southerly wind on the western tide sends in a cross
swell, it would not be prudent to anchor far in. The best position is in
15 to 20 fathoms, with the southern white cliff" bearing West about a
mile.
CAPE SIRAKAIVII, or Nadiejda, the north point of western entrance
to Tsugar strait, is a high bluff similar to Cape Siwokubi, but not so
safe of approach. The coast, for more than a mile on each side of the
cape, is bordered with numerous rocks, generally above water, some
of which run off nearly 2 cables. As it is not known whether the dangers
extend under water beyond this distance, it will be prudent to give the
cape a good berth in passing.
From Cape Sirakami the coast trends W. by N. N. 5 miles to Cape
Matsumae, which is low, and off it is a conical islet with a small temple
CHAP, x.] TSUGAR STRAIT. 363
or building on it. The bay between is very rocky, excepting off the
east end of the city of Matsumae, where there is good anchorage in 12
fathoms at half a mile off shore ; but this anchorage would, of course,
be unsafe in southerly winds. H.M.S. Sybille in 1855 coasted along
this bay at about 2 miles off shore, and had irregular soundings, 16 to
25 fathoms, shoaling suddenly when near the city from 13 to 5 and 7
fathoms.
CURRENTS and TIDES. During the survey of Tsugar strait by
the Saracen, in June, July, and August 1855, a constant N.E. current
set through the middle of the strait, the breadth of which varied con-
siderably according to the state of the wind and weather. Before and
during a N.E. wind its strength was much diminished ; but with the wind
from the opposite direction, it would expand and fill up two-thirds of the
channel against the strength of the western tide.
The tide in the stream runs about 12 hours each way near the full and
change of the moon, and there are only two regular tides by the shore in
24 hours. At full and change, the flood or eastern stream makes at
Tatsupi saki at 6h. 30m. a.m., at 7h. Om. at Cape Tsiuka, and at 7h. 30ni.
at Toriwi saki. The western stream begins about 12 hours later. The
turn of the stream takes place 1^ hours later every day.
so szitiA, which lies W. ^ S. 16^ miles from Cape Sirakami, the north-
west point of entrance to the strait of Tsugar, has a high round peak, 974
feet high, and there are two remarkable sugar-loaf islets or rocks lying
close off its west end.*
v SIMA, lying about 24 miles to the W.N. W. of Ko sima, is higher and
longer.
OKOSXRX ISLAND lies off the south-west coast of Yezo, about 30 miles
N. by E. of U sima. On two occasions H.M.S. Sybille passed through
the channel between Okosiri and Yezo. The south extreme of Okosiri is
low, and detached rocks lie about 2 miles south of it. Some of these rocks
are 10 to 15 feet above water, and apparently a reef connects them with
the island. There may be anchorage off the south point, but the eastern
side of the island is steep-to, and no bottom could be obtained when sailing
through the channel, which is about 10 miles wide at its northern entrance.
The north-east point of the island appeared from a distance to have a
rocky ledge running out a short distance from it. On the Yezo side of
the channel the land is high, and the coast apparently bold-to.
'Captain K. Stewart, R.X., 1855.
364 JAPAN ISLANDS. [CHAP. x.
DIRECTIONS Sailing vessels approaching Tsugar strait from the
westward during foggy weather should guard against being carried by
the current to the northward past the entrance. Should the weather be
clear when nearing Cape Gamaley, it may be as well to sight it ; but if
doubtful, shape a course (allowing for the probable current) direct for
Cape Greig. Should a fog come on suddenly when nearing this
cape, recollect that the coast is clear and sandy, and the soundings
are regular to the southward, but rocky with irregular soundings to the
northward of it. The cape is steep-to, and standing out prominently from
the coast line, forms a good landmark.
No particular directions are required in passing through this strait
to the eastward, as there are no hidden dangers, and the north-easterly
current will always be found strongest in the middle of the stream. After
passing Cape Tsugar, if the weather is thick, and the vessel bound to
Hakodadi, endeavour to make Cape Tsiuka and proceed from thence to
Mussell point ; or giving Cape Tsiuka a berth, feel the way up into the
bay, between it and Cape Saraki, by the lead, and anchor till the weather
clears.
Approaching the strait from the eastward, steer for Cape Nambu,
and endeavour to make it on a N.W. bearing. Pass the cape ~at about
a mile distant, then haul in to avoid the current and to anchor should
it fall calm. In this case, by keeping this shore close aboard, the vessel
may probably be drifted up to Low islet, off Toriwi saki, by the western
stream, when the north-east current is running like a mill stream in mid-
channel.
At the anchorage off Low islet the vessel must wait a favourable
opportunity for crossing the strait. During the summer months the winds
are generally light from the south-west for a considerable period ; the
wind, however, generally freshens a little when the western stream makes,
and this is the right time to weigh. Pass about half a mile from Low
island, and in crossing the current take care not to be set to leeward of
Hakodadi.
Proceeding from Hakodadi to the westward against S.W. winds, keep
well inside Cape Tsiuka, and if unable to round it, anchor with the
stream or kedge about 2 miles to the north-east, weighing again when the
next western tide makes. Should the wind be very light, a vessel may not
clear the strait in one tide ; in this case it will be better to wait a tide to
the eastward of Cape Sirakami, and take the whole of the following tide to
clear the strait, than run any risk of being swept into the strait again by
the current. Vessels passing through the strait, particularly to the west-
ward, should have a good kedge and 150 fathoms of hawser ready for
immediate use, and must keep the land close aboard.
CHAP, x.] TSUGAR STRAIT. - EAST COAST OF YEZO. 365
VOLCANO BAY and ENDERivio HARBOUR The United States
frigate Southampton visited both this bay and harbour in 1854, and
verified the accuracy of Captain Broughton's survey made in September
1796. Cape Yetomo, at the entrance of the harbour, is in lat. 42 21' N.,
long. 140 56' E.*
The following description of this bay and harbour is from Broughton's
voyages, pp. 102, 104 : He there states, "I have seen few lands that
bear a finer aspect than the northern side of Volcano bay. It presents
an agreeable diversity of rising ground, and a most pleasing variety
of deciduous trees, shedding at this time their summer foliage.
The entrance into this extensive bay is formed by the land marking
the harbour, which the natives call Endermo, and the south point, which
they call Esarmi ; they bear from each other N. by W. ^ W., and
S. by E. |- E., distant 33 miles. There are no less than three volcanoes in
the bay, which induced me to call it by that name. The depth is
50 fathoms in the centre, and the soundings gradually decrease on the
approach to either shore. During our stay at the period of the equinoxes
we experienced generally very fine weather, with gentle land and sea winds
from N.E. and S.E., and no swell to prevent a vessel riding in safety, even
in the bay ; and the harbour of Endermo is quite sheltered from all but bad
weather, by bringing the bluff on the extreme part of the isthmus, which
forms the starboard point in coming in, to bear N.W. ; in this position, in
4 or 5 fathoms Avater, the port entry point on the north shore Avas in one
with the bluff."
In running for the harbour, the island must be kept open with the
starboard entry point till within half a mile of a small islet (which is only
so at half tide), and then steer in to the S.W., when the water will shoal,
and any convenient berth taken. The soundings gradually decrease
from 10 to 2 fathoms, soft bottom. A few houses are scattered on the
south side of the harbour, and towards the head the shores are low and
flat, so much so as to prevent boats landing within one hundred yards ;
in all other parts wood and water are procured with the utmost con-
venience. High water, full and change, at 5h. 30m. ; rise and fall
6 feet.
KURIL ISLANDS.
This extensive chain of islands extends nearly in a uniform N.E.
and S.W. line of direction from the north-east point of Yezo island to
the south extreme of Kamchatka. The Boussole channel separates the
* See Plan of Endermo Harbour ; No. 2,674 ; scale, m = 5| inches.
366 KURIL ISLANDS. [CHAP. x.
chain into two portions ; that to the northward belonging to Russia, and
the southern portion to Japan. The fog in which these islands are
constantly enveloped, the violent currents experienced in all the channels
separating them, the steepness of their coasts, and the impossibility of
anchoring, are such formidable obstacles, that it tries to the utmost the
patience and perseverance of the mariner to acquire much knowledge
respecting them.*
xim ASHIR isi. AW3>, the south-eastern of the Kuril islands, is separated
from the north-east end of Yezo by a channel, named by Krusenstern the
strait of Yezo, which is about 8 miles wide in the narrowest part. This end
of Yezo has not been yet explored ; all that is known of it is, that it forms
a deep bay, and that the south-east part of Kunashir advances very far into
this bay, so that Cape Nossyam or Broughton, the eastern extreme of
Yezo, entirely hides the strait, from which cause Kunashir and Yezo are
often taken for one island.
St. Anthony peak, rising near the north-east nd of Kunashir, is in
lat. 44 31' N., long. 145 46' E. The island is stated to be surrounded
with rocks and dangers. Its south-west part forms a bay, the two points
of entrance to which bear N.W. by W. W. and S.E. by E. i E. from
each other, distant 11^ miles. The south-east side of the bay is a low
sandy tongue of land, nearly 7 miles in length ; the opposite side, also a
tongue of land, is only 5 miles. The Japanese have an establishment in
the bay. The tide rises about 4 feet.
CHIKOTAN or Spanberg island, at 30 miles N.E. by E. ^ E. from the
east extreme of Yezo, is about 5 miles long, east and west, and the same
north and south. In the centre of the island there rises a mount, even
and uniform to the summit. It is said that there is a good harbour in the
south-west part of the island.
The space between Yezo and Chikotan is much contracted by rocks and
breakers, which occupy an extent of 20 miles. At 9 or 10 miles to the
south-west of Chikotan are several rocky islets, named Walvis islands,
one of which is about a mile in length, flat, narrow, and covered with
verdure. The only safe channel is between the islets and Chikotan.
XTimup or Staten island is separated from Kunashir by the Pico
or Catherine channel, about 18 miles wide. Very little is known of
this island. It appears to be about 135 miles in extent, N.E. by E.
and S.W. by W., and 25 miles at its broadest part. Its north-east
point, Cape Okebets, is said to be high and perpendicular, and to be in
* See Charts : Kuril Islands, No. 2,405 ; scale, d = 2 ! 1 inches : and Pacific Ocean.
Sheet 1, No. 2,459 ; scale, d 0-8 of an inch.
CHAP, x.] KUNASHIR ISLAND. - PORT TAVANO. 367
lat. 45 38' N., long. 149 14' E. ; its south point, Cape Rickord, in
44 29' N., 146 34' E.
, or Companys island, lying on the 46th parallel of latitude.
is separated from the north-east end of Iturup by Vries strait, 13 miles
wide, and free from danger. The island is 58 miles long, N.E. and S.W.,
and its greatest breadth about 15 miles. Near its centre there is a
remarkable peak, in shape like a haycock, which can be seen in clear
weather at a distance of 50 miles, and is often visible when the other
portion of the island is obscured by fog. The south-west point of the
island is low and steep, and continues so for about 15 miles in a northerly
direction, when it rises to a lofty mountain range ; a high and almost
perpendicular rock, appearing like a sail when seen at a distance, lie?
S.E. about one mile from the point.*
The north-west side of the island is for the most part rugged, steep,
and without the least appearance of vegetation, sign of an anchorage, or
inlet sufficient to shelter a boat. The north-east point is of a dark colour,
moderately high, and slopes towards the sea. A chain of rock runs off
about 5 miles in an E.N.E. direction from this point ; and at a distance
of a mile from the shore there is a large rock of pyramidal form, with
two others smaller.
PORT TAVAWO. The small port of Tavano lies on the eastern side of
Urup and is quite open to the eastward ; with the wind from that
quarter a heavy swell rolls in, which, with the shallow water and rocks it
contains, do not recommend it as a safe anchorage. The entrance has a
depth of 8 and 10 fathoms, and is 120 yards across ; nearly in the centre
of the port there are some rocks just above water, with 4^ and 5 fathoms-
close to.
Water can easily be procured from two rivers at the head of Port
Tavano. Salmon and rock fish are plentiful.
DIRECTION'S. The only good mark for Port Tavano is a small island
lying S.E. by E. one quarter of a mile from the south point of the bay ;
it is steep-to (except for a few yards on its north side), high, conical-
shaped, and of a blackish colour. N. by E. l miles from this island there
is a remarkable point with a hole through it near the water, which can be
seen at some distance when bearing North. After passing the small island
just noticed, the port will be seen open bearing about West, and when
the islet bears South the soundings will be 27 fathoms (sand and mud),
gradually shoaling as the harbour is approached.
* The description of some of the islands -which follow is by George L. Carr, Master
of H.M.S. Pique, 1858, and William H. Drysdale, Master of H.M.S. Spartan, 1855.
368 KURIL ISLANDS. [CHAP. x.
BROUGHTON, REBUNTSIRIBOI, and BRAT CHIRKTOEF ISLANDS.
Between Urup and Siinusir, the next large island to the north-east, are
three small islands. The northernmost, Broughton or Makanruru island
(Round island of Broughton), is of good height, bold, and abrupt, sloping
a little to the southward, near which end are some rocks, and apparently
the only place where a landing could be effected.
The two other islands, named Rebuntsiriboi or Chirnoi, and Brat
Chirnoef or Chirnoi Brothers, lie N.N.E. and S.S.W. from each other,
distant 1-| miles. Rebuntsiriboi, the northernmost of the two, is remark-
able from its having two conspicuous peaks of sugar-loaf form. A reef,
which much resembles an artificial breakwater, extends a mile east from
its north point, and at its extremity there is a high rock.
SIMUSIR ISLAND is separated from the last-mentioned group by the
Boussole channel, which, as before stated, divides the chain into two
portions. The island is 27 miles long N.E. and S.W., and 5 miles in
breadth. The coast appears safe to approach, no dangers being visible.
It is destitute of any anchorage except in the northern part, where there
is said to be a good harbour, named Broughton bay, which, although
spacious, is only navigable for small vessels, on account of a reef lying in
the middle of the entrance.
About 10 miles to the south-west of the north-east point of the island
is Prevost peak, which can be seen at a great distance. The south end
of the island is low, but rises suddenly to a lofty mountain, having a crater
on its north-west side.
KETOY ISLAND is separated from the north-east end of Simusir by
the Diane strait, about 15 miles wide. The island is high and moun-
tainous, and about 8 miles in circumference. Rocks and islets are said to
extend some distance off its north-east and eastern sides.
TTSHXSHXR, 12^ miles to the N.E. by N. of Ketoy, is composed of two
islands, each about 1^ miles long N.N.E. and S.S.W., which are connected
by a reef 2 cables long. A reef of rocks terminated by a small islet
extends to the northward from the northernmost of these islands. The
channel between Ushishir and Ketoy is safe.
RASHUA, the next island to the north-east, is about 15 miles in cir-
cumference, high, uneven, and barren.
JVIATITA ISLAND is separated from Rashua by Nadejda strait,
18 miles wide, and free from danger ; the currents in it, however, are
strong, and must be particularly guarded against, and unless the wind
blows right through, a sailing vessel should not attempt to take it.
CHAP, x.] SIMUSIR ISLAND. PARAMUSHIR ISLAND. 369
The island is 7 miles in length, north and south, and may be easily
known by its lofty peak, which rises near its south-west side.
RAZKOKE ISLAND, lying 5 miles to the N.N.E. of Matua, from which
it is separated by Golovnin strait, is small but hilly, and has a high peak.
In using this strait vessels should be prepared for strong gusts of wind.
wctrsm ISLANDS, at 22 miles to the north-east of Raikoke, are four
small islets, or rather rocks, one of which is awash. They were dis-
covered by Krusenstern in 1805, and named by him the Snares, on
account of the great hazard he ran of being drifted on them by the strong
current.
SHZASH-KOTAXT ISLAND, at 12 miles to the north-east of the Musir,
is 12 miles in extent, N.N.E. and S.S.W., and 5 miles in breadth.
The two islands Ekarma and Chirin-kotan lie respectively N.W. by W.
5 miles, and W. by N. 24 miles from the north-west point of Shiash-
kotan.
r, the next island to the north-east of Shiash-kotan.
is of a round form, 7 miles in diameter, and a peak rises near its centre.
ONEXOTAN ISLAND, 24 miles long N.N.E. and S.S.W., and 5 to 10
miles wide, is separated from Kharim-kotan by a channel 8 miles wide,
called Shestoi strait, which is free from danger, but the currents in it
being strong would make it dangerous to a sailing vessel if overtaken by
a calm or light winds. Onekotan mnkes in several lofty peaks two of
which are dome-shaped.
MAKAXtrxtvSBZ ISLAND lies 15 miles to the W.N.W. of the north-
west of Onekotan ; and at the distance of 7 miles to the S.W. of it is
Avos island or rock, which is surrounded by a dangerous reef awash.
pAXtAMUSHZR ISLAND is among the largest of this archipelago,
being 60 miles long N.E. and S.W., and of an average breadth of 14
miles. It is separated from Onekotan by Amphitrite strait, which is 22
miles wide, safe, and generally used by vessels going from Okhotsk to
Kamchatka, or to or from the American coast.
Paramushir, from its size and appearance, could not well be mistaken ;
near its south end is a mountain rising to a high and conspicuous peak,
very dark, and unlike the land in its neighbourhood ; and to the south-
ward of this are three remarkable peaks. The south-east point of the
island is long and low, with apparently a reef extending off it to the
southward. A small island about 2 miles in diameter, named Shirinki,
[C.] A A
370 SOUTH-EAST COAST OF KAMCHATKA. [CHAP. x.
lies 9 miles from its south-west point ; and Alaid, the most northern
island of the chain, 1 1 miles from its north-west point.
SHUMSHU ISLAND, the la.-i island of this chain, is separated from
Cape Lopatka, the south extreme of Kamchatka, by Kuril strait, and
from the north-east end of Paramushir by another channel, called Little
Kuril strait. The south extreme of Shumshu terminates in a tongue of
low land ; the north end is the same, and is distant 8 miles from Cape
Lopatka, which is also low.
Kuril strait is about 3 miles wide, but very dangerous, on account of
the strong currents and sunken rocks bounding it on either side. Little
Kuril strait is also dangerous.
WINDS. During the summer months the winds are said to be variable
near the Kuril islands, and it is then difficult to determine which are the
prevalent quarters. With S.S.E. and S.S.W. winds the weather is
always foggy, but the haze being dry the sun is often visible through
the fog. East and N.E. winds bring rain and bad weather. With
N.N.E and N.N.W. winds the weather clears, and the temperature is
cold ; it is also cold with winds between N.N.W. and W.S.W., and the
air is dry and hazy. With the wind between S.S.W. and W.S.W. the
sky is clear, and it is rarely foggy.
SOUTH-EAST COAST OF KAMCHATKA.
AVATCHA BAT is formed at the bottom of the large outer bay of
the same name on the south-east coast of the peninsula of Kamchatka. It
is the principal port of the peninsula, and is so extensive and excellent,
that it would afford secure shelter for all the fleets in the world in its
capacious basin. The channel leading to this bay is 4 miles long and a
mile broad, and there is anchorage throughout its whole extent. It trends
in a N. by W. direction, and when the wind is fair it may be sailed
through by keeping in mid-channel ; but it frequently happens that
vessels have to beat in, and as the narrowness of the channel renders it
necessary to stand as close to the dangers as possible, in order to lessen the
number of tacks, it will be requisite to attend strictly to the leading
marks.*
The extensive outer bay of Avatcha is between Capes Povorotnol
or Gavarea, and Chipounsko'i, which are the best landfalls for making
the port ; for should a vessel, when off either of these capes, be over-
* See Chart : Sea of Okhotsk, No. 2,388 ; scale, d = 2 inches.
CIIAP.X.] AVATCHA BAY. 371
taken by thick fogs or strong winds from East or S.E., it is always
possible to keep the sea ; whereas should the port be made on its parallel
and the vessel surprised by any contrariety, her situation would be pre-
carious, there being no soundings on the coast, nor any anchorage which
could be taken under such circumstances.*
The harbour of Petropaulski, on the eastern side ofAvatcha bay, is
small, deep, well shut in, and a convenient place for a refit of any
kind. The town of Petropaulski stands at the head of the harbour, in
an amphitheatre on the slopes of two hills, which form the valley, and
is composed of a group of small wooden houses, covered with reeds
and dry grass, and surrounded by courts and gardens, with palisades.
At the lower part of the town, in the valley, is the church which is
remarkable for its fantastic construction, and for its roof, which painted
green, seems to add considerably to the effect of the picture, surrounded
as it is by lofty mountains. Tareinski harbour, in the south-west part
of the bay, is extensive and excellent, but as there is neither popula-
tion nor commerce in it, it has been of no utility. Rakovya harbour
also forms, to the southward of Petropaulski, an equally excellent port,
but it is of less easy access than the foregoing, on account of the Rakovya
shoal, lying in the middle of its entrance.
The weather is frequently fine at Petropaulski up to the 15th October;
but after this period it is wet, and the land begins to be covered with
snow, which becomes permanent, and does not disappear until May or
June in the ensuing year. In the months of November, December, and
January, violent storms are experienced. In fine weather, the morning
breeze is from North to N.N.W. lasting until eight or ten o'clock, and
sometimes even until eleven o'clock; then shifting to the West and South
it sinks altogether; in the afternoon about one or two o'clock, the breeze
from the offing sets in, varying from South to East.
During winter the cold is severe; the snow falls in abundance far from
common, and frequently rises as high as the houses, which thus become
buried until the return of spring; but whatever may be the intensity of
the cold, it is rare that the roadstead is entirely frozen over.; the ice
does not generally extend more than a cable's length off shore ; and after
bad weather occasioned by winds from seaward, as well as those from
West and North, it becomes detached from the shore, and is carried out
into the road. One of the most severe winters remembered was that of
1814, when the road was almost entirely blocked up. In ordinary winters
the coves, the bays, and the rivers are only covered, and the ice is not
always too thick to hinder a passage by breaking or cutting.
* See Plans : Avatcha Bay, with Plan of Petropaulski Harbour, No. 1,040 ; scale,
m = 1 inch ; and Avatcha Outer Bay, No. 1,041, scale, m = 0-2 of an inch.
A A 2
SOUTH-EAST COAST OF KAMCHATKA. [CHAP. x.
supplies. A vessel in need of repair will only find sale anchorage in
Avatcha bay, and must depend on her own resources both for provisions
and workmen ; for there is no certainty in obtaining wood or water,
still less any refitments for the ship. It is, however, possible to procure
in urgent cases some slight aid from the Government stores, and some
workmen of the port ; but these assistances, besides being very limited,
are very precarious. A supply of fresh beef may be procured, and a
little fresh butter, but it is difficult to get poultry or eggs. There are
no sheep nor pigs. Fish is abundant in the bay in the season ; it begins
with cod and herrings, and is followed by salmon and salmon trout.
LIGHTS. There are three Jixed white lights exhibited at the entrance
of Avatcha bay, at 449, 294, and 378 feet respectively above the level of
the sea. The first is on the eastern point of entrance, and is visible at 24
miles. The second is on the inner point on the west side of entrance,
and visible at 19 miles ; and the other is on the signal station,' about
half a mile south of the entrance to Rakovya harbour, visible at 22
miles.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, in Petropaulski harbour at
3h. 30m.; springs rise 6f feet; neaps 2^ feet.
DIRECTIONS. When bound to Avatcha bay from the southward, a
sailing vessel should make the coast well south of Cape Povorotno'i
or Gavarea, and round it as close as possible, as the wind will in all
probability veer to the northward on passing it. If the weather be
clear, two mountains will be seen to the west and north-west of the
cape, and one far off to the northward and eastward. The eastern one
of the two former, Mount Villeuchinski, is 7,372 feet high, in lat.
52 42' N., long. 158 20' E., and is peaked like a sugar loaf. The
highest and most northern of the three is Mount Avatcha, which is
11,554 feet high, and may be seen in clear weather a very considerable
distance. To the eastward of this peak, and close to it is the Roselsko'i
volcano, but it emits but Ijttle smoke.
These peaks are the best guides to Avatcha bay, until near enough to
distinguish the entrance, which will then appear to lie between two
perpendicular cliffs. Upon the eastern one of these, the lighthouse
bluff, there are a hut and signal staff, and when any vessel is expected
a light is sometimes shown. If the entrance of the bay be open, a large
rock, called the Baboushka, will be seen on the western side of the
channel and three others, named the Brothers, on the eastern side of the
lighthouse bluff.
The outer dangers are, a reef of rocks lying S.E., about 2 miles from the
CHAP, x.] AVATCHA BA\. 3/3
lighthouse bluff, ami a reef lying oft* H bank which connects Sianitski
point with the point to the southward of it. To avoid the lighthouse
reef, do not .shut in the land to the northward of the lighthouse bluff,
unless certain of being 2^ miles off shore, and when within three-
quarters of a mile only, tack when the lighthouse bluff bears North, or
X. ^ E.; the Brothers rock in line with the lighthouse, leads close to
the edge of the reef.
The tirst western danger has a rock above water upon it, and may be
avoided by not opening Baboushka rock with the point beyond, with a
flagstaff upon it. In standing towards this rock, take care that the ebb
tide in particular does not set the vessel upon it. A good working mark
for all this western shore is the Baboushka open with Direction bluff, the
last hill on the left upon the low land at the head of Avatcha bay.
The bay south of Stanitski point is filled with rocks and foul ground.
The lighthouse reef is connected with the Brothers, and the light-
house bluff must not be approached in any part within half a mile,
nor the Brothers within a full cable's length. There are no good marks
for the exact limit of this reef off the Brothers, and vessels must estimate
that short distance ; they must also, in beating through this channel, allow
for shooting in stays, and for the tides, which, ebb and flood, sweep over
towards these rocks, running S.E. and N.E. Good way should also be
kept on the vessel, as the eddy tides may otherwise prevent her staying.
To the northward of the Brothers, two-thirds of the distance between
them and a ragged cape, named Pinnacle point, there are some rocks
nearly awash, and off the point, there is a small reef, one of the outer
rocks of which dries at half-tide. These dangers can always be seen ;
their outer edges lie nearly in line, and they may be approached within a
cable's length. If they are not seen, do not shut in the Rakovya signal
bluff. There is deeper water off Pinnacle point than in mid-channel, and
the soundings are irregular.
To the northward of Stanitski point, the Baboushka rock may be opened
to the eastward a little with the signal staff bluff, but be careful of
a shoal which extends about 3 cables south of the Baboushka. The
Baboushka has no danger to the eastward, at a greater distance than a
cable's length ; and when it is passed, there is nothing to fear on the
western shore, until N.N.W. of the signal staff bluff, off which there is a
long shoal with only 2 and 2^ fathoms on it. The soundings shoal gradually
towards it, and the helm may be safely put down in 4^ J fathoms ; but a
certain guide is not to open the western tangent of the Baboushka with
Stanitski point.
When the vessel is a cable's length north of Pinnacle reef, she can
stand into Ismennai bay, guided by the soundings which are regular, taking
374 SOUTH-EAST COAST OF KAMCHATKA. [CHAP. x.
care to avoid a 3- fathoms knoll, lying half-way between Pinnacle
point and the second cliff north of it. This bay affords good anchorage,
and it may be convenient to anchor hi for a tide ; there is no danger
but the 3-fathoms knoll, and the Ismennai rock may be passed at a
cable's length. This rock is connected with Ismennai point by a reef, and
in standing towards it Pinnacle point must be kept open with the light-
house bluff when in line the depth is only 3 fathoms Rakovya signal
staff in line with the bluff south of it will place a vessel in 5 fathoms water
rlo^e to the rocks.
A small reef extends a full cable's length from Ismennai point, and
until this is passed do not shut in Pinnacle point with the lighthouse
bluff ; but to the northward of it a vessel may stand to about a cable's
length of the bluffs.
Northward of Rakovya signal staff the only danger is the Rakovya
shoal, upon the west part of which there is a buoy in summer, and
to clear this keep the Brothers in sight. There is no good mark for
determining when the vessel is to the northward of this rocky shoal,
which has only ty feet least water on it, and as the tides in their course
up to Rakovya harbour will be apt to set her towards it, it will be prudent
to keep the Brothers open, until it is certain, by the distance, of having
passed it (its northern edge is seven-eighths of a mile from Rakovya bluff),
particularly as the vessel may now stretch well to the westward, and as
there is nothing to obstruct her up to the anchorage. Rakovya harbour
will afford good security to a vessel when running in from sea with a
southerly gale, at which time she might find difficulty in bringing up at
the usual anchorage. In this case the Rakovya shoal must be left to the
northward ; 5 and 5^ fathoms will be close upon the edge of it, but the
water must not be shoaled under 9 fathoms.
In entering Petropaulski harbour it is only necessary to guard against a
near approach to the signal staff on the end of the peninsula on the western
side of the entrance, named Shackoff point. In approaching this point, on
which there is a battery, a white buoy will be seen, marking the extremity
of a bank, extending S.S.E. from it;* this may be passed close to,
leaving to the westward, and from thence steer for the end of a low
* A shoal extends from Shackoff point, the western point of the entrance to Petro-
paulski harbour, in a south-easterly direction nearly a quarter of a mile from high-water
mark, having 3 fathoms only on its extremity, although in some places there are 4 fa-
thoms between it and the point. By keeping the south end of the cliff under the cemetery
hearing X.E., until within a cable's length of the beach, when the church of Petropaulski
will appear in the centre of the valley, leads clear to the southward of this shoal, after
which the direct channel to the inner harbour of Petropaulski has nothing less than 6
fathoms. Valentine G. Roberts, Master of H.M.S. President, 1855.
CHAP. x.j AVATCHA BAY. 375
sandy point which projects at an angle of 45 from the direction of the
coast and nearly closes the bottom of the bay, forming it into an excellent
natural harbour. This tongue of land, like an artificial causeway, is but
little above the level of the sea, and is covered with huts raised on piles
above the ground serving to dry fish. This point may be passed close to.
A sailing vessel leaving this harbour with light winds and with the
beginning of the ebb, must guard against being swept down upon the
Rakovya shoal, and when past it upon the signal bluff". There are
strong eddies all over this bay, and when the winds are light, vessels often
become unmanageable. It will be better to weigh with the last drain
of flood.
3/6
CHAPTER XI.
SEA OF JAPAN ; GULF OF TAKTAKY ; GULF AND 1UVE11 AMU 11 ;
SAGHALIN ISLAND ; LAPEROUSE ST11AIT ; AND SEA OF OKHOTSK.
VARIATION in 1 86 1 . East coast of Korea, 3 30' to 4 30' W. Coast of Tartan-, 3 30' W.
Laperouse strait, 2 4.V W. Sea of Okhotsk, 4 45' W. to 6 15' E.
The SEA of JAPAN is bound ou the east and south by ^he Japan
islands, and on the west and north-west by the coasts of Korea and
Tartary. It is about 900 miles long, N.N.E. and S.S.W., and 600 miles
wide, East and West at its broadest part. Surrounded by land on all
sides, this sea is only accessible by the following narrow passages : To
the south by the Korea strait, which connects it with the China sea ; to
the east by Laperouse and Tsugar straits, by which it communicates with
the Pacific ; and to the north by the Gulf of Tartary, through Avhich it
communicates with the Sea of Okhotsk by the Gulf of Amur. The
Boungo and Kino channels which lead into the Suwo Nada at the south-
west end of Nipon, and the connexion of the Suwo Nada with Korea
strait north of Kiusiu island, are as yet little known.*
WINDS and ctntxtSNTS. There exists at present but little informa-
tion regarding the navigation of the sea of Japan. The winds there
appear very variable, and the currents, depending on special causes,
are at times insignificant, whilst at others they run with great
strength. There is no doubt f that the winds, in the chief principles
of their change, coincide with those of the China sea, and that all
irregularities in the latter influence in a greater or lesser degree the
winds in these parts. It may, however, be remarked Avith greater
certainty that hazy weather is accompanied by fresh and extremely cold
north-east winds, or by light south-westerly breezes. The latter, not
unfrequently, bring on a dense fog, particularly in the northern half
of the eastern coast of Korea. South-westerly and north-westerly winds
are certain precursors of fine weather.
In the middle, and towards the eastern part of the sea, the currents
appear to set nearly always to the eastward, but occasionally from the
* See Chart of the Kuril Islands, No. 2,405 ; scale, d = 2 2 inches.
f Voyage of the Kussian frigate Pallas, in 1854.
CHAP. XL] SEA OF JAPAN; WINDS AND CURRENTS. 377
north and south. On the 4th June 18.55 the Constantinc'. proceeding
from Korea strait to the strait of Tsugar, experienced a current of 36
miles a day, setting to the E.N.E., in lat. 36 48' N., long. 131 52' E.
while on the following days, the rate varied from 6 to 9 miles, and
the direction was from N. by E. to E. by N., until near the parallel of
Tsugar strait, when its rate was 1 1 miles a day to the N. -^ E. During
the whole of this passage the weather was fine and the winds light
from West to South ; two days only they were from South to East, with
cloudy showery weather.
In November 1855, the same vessel proceeding from Tsugar strait to
that of Korea experienced a current setting E. by N. at a rate of 28 miles on
the parallel of the strait ; to the S. by E. 7 miles in 40 N. and 138 E. ;
to the S. ^ E. in 39 N. ; and the day following E. by S. 41 miles in
38 N. During all this time, the winds were from N.W. and N.N.W
and the weather fine ; but on the 16th the wind changing to East and
E.N.E. accompanied by rain, the current set N.N.E. -^ E. at the rate of
26 miles.
Variable winds were experienced in this sea by IT. M.S. Hornet in May
and June 1856 ; in July and August they were mostly from the south-
ward and eastward. There were fogs, more or less, in all these months.
In August there was much heavy rain. From May to July little or no
current was felt, either in this sea or in Korea strait ; but in the latter
end of July and the month of August it ran strong to the N.E., on one
occasion as much as 48 miles in twenty-four hours ; it, however, gradually
decreased as the vessel proceeded to the northward. These currents
were evidently much influenced by the wind, for on one occasion, in
the vicinity of the Liancourt group, she was set H miles per hour to
the S.E.
On the 12th October II.M.S. Barracouta, in 36^ N. and 130 22' E.,
after a series of variable winds from the N.N.E. , the barometer going
down, and heavy rain having fallen all day, was struck by a gale of wind
from the North which obliged her to bear up for Shanghai, where she
arrived on the 21st.
There seems to be no regularity in the currents along the western
coast of this sea ; they are in general very feeble, increasing only
off the abrupt points of the coast. Broughtori, who in October 1797
passed close along this coast, notices a current setting to the S.S.W. at
the rate of one mile an hour. On the 18th of July 1856, the French
frigate Virginic, with a good breeze from the northward, coasted it at
a distance of 2 miles from Barracouta harbour to Cape Clonard, and had
fine weather. From Barracouta harbour to Yung-hing bay, as in the
preceding year at the same time, she had light winds from the North,
378 -KA OF JAPAN. -'.xi.
varying to the N.E. and very fine weather, with the exception of some
hours of fog in crossing D'Anville bay. Weak currents set to the
northward at a mean rate of 10 miles in twenty-four hours.
According to Krusenstern, North and N.E. winds blow for 10 months
of the year along the east coast of Korea, and if sometimes they change
to the South, which is rare, it is only for a short time.
ssxrTZKEii ISLAND, the south-easternmost of the group forming
a belt round the south coast of Korea (respecting which we have but
little information), may be considered as the western limits of the
Broughton channel, which lies betAveeu the Korea and the double island
Tsus sima. It is isolated, conical, and rugged, about 328 feet high, and
barren. Its position, by M. de Montravel, is 34 30' 11" N., 128 38' E.
In the French chart it is placed in 34 34' N., 128 53' E., according to
M. Roquemaurel.
TSUS SIMA, extending about 37 miles in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direc-
tion, separates the Korea strait into two channels, the western of which is
named Broughton and the eastern Krusenstern. The island is divided into
two parts by a large inlet named Tsus sima sound.* The southern portion
is high and mountainous,! with two sharp peaks on its northern part,
forming like asses' ears when bearing S.E. The northern portion is
comparatively low and level, except about one-third from its north-east
extreme, where it rises into an high mountain.
M. de Montravel places the south-east point of this island in
lat. 34 5^' N., long. 129 16' E. ; and Kiku-saki, the south-west point,
in 34 10 7 N., 129 IV E.
H.M.S. Sybille, in April 1855, passed through Broughton channel,
between Tsus sima and the Korean coast, and it appeared to be clear of
danger on the island side. A dangerous reef was seen extending a mile
or more from the south-west point of Tsus sima ; and the north-
east point appeared to terminate in a rocky reef. Captain Forsyth,
who passed through Korea strait in H.M.S. Hornet, in 1856, states
that Krusenstern channel on the east side of Tsus sima is to be preferred,
as it is the widest and less current was experienced in it.
CAUTioisr When navigating Korea strait, the barometer should be
carefully watched, especially at night, as sudden shifts of wind fre-
quently occur with heavy gusts, which give but little warning of their
approach.
* See Plan of Tsus sima Sound, surveyed by Commander J. Ward, E.N., in 1859
No. 2,710 ; scale, m = 3 inches,
t E. G. L. Street, Master of H.M.S. Nimrod, June 1860.
CHAP, xi.] SENTINEL ISLAND. - LIANCOURT ROCKS. 3/9
MATU sxiKA (Dagelet island of the French and Dajette of the
Russian charts) is by the Russian frigate Pallas in lat. 37 22' N.,
long. 130 56' E.* It is of circular form, about 20 miles in circumference,
and its peak, rising from the centre of the island, is 2,100* feet above
the sea level. Its shores are cliffy and almost inaccessible.
ROCKS are named after the French ship Liancourt,
which discovered them in 1849 ; they were also named Menalai and
Olivutsa, rocks by the Russian frigate Pallas in 1854, and Hornet
islands by H.M.S. Hornet in 1855. Captain Forsyth, of the latter
vessel, gives their position as lat. 37 14' N. long. 131 55' E., and
describes them as being two barren rocky islets, about a mile in extent
X.W. by W. and S.E. by E., and a quarter of a mile apart, and appa-
rently joined together by a reef. The western islet, elevated about 410
feet above the sea, has a sugar-loaf form ; the easternmost is much lower
and flat-topped. The water appeared deep close-to, but they are dan-
gerous from their position, being directly in the track of vessels steering
up the sea of Japan for Hakodadi.
TAKO SIMA or Argonaut island, marked doubtful on the charts, does
not exist in the position assigned to it, in 37 52' N., and 129 53' E.
In the year 1852, the French corvette Capricieuse twice crossed this
position without perceiving any land.
WAYWODA ROCK, so named after a Russian corvette, which on her
way from Hakodadi to D'Anville gulf is said f to have discovered a rock
which appeared to be 12 feet high, and 70 feet broad. This danger lies
approximately in lat. 42 14^' N., long. 137 17' E.
The EAST COAST of KOREA, unlike the western coast, is steep-to
at a short distance from the shore. A running survey Avas made by the
Russian frigate Pallas in 1854 of its whole extent for about 600 miles,
from the high detached rocks at the entrance of Chosan harbour to
lat. 42 31' N., long. 131 10' E. Port Lazaref, Napoleon road or Posiette
harbour, and the Tumen river were surveyed by her boats.
The frigate had steady fair winds, and kept at a distance of from one to
4 miles off shore, approaching even nearer at some parts, and following
its windings. The coast has a uniform appearance ; sometimes, however,
* M. Roquemaurel places it in lat. 3730'N., long. 130 53' E., and gives its height
as 4,000 feet.
t Renseignements Hydrographiques sur la Mer du Japon, &c., 2nd edition, page 124,
1860.
380 SEA OF JAPAN. [CHAP. xi.
it changes suddenly ; from being mountainous and rocky it becomes low
and sandy, assuming its former appearance after a short interval.
TSAtr-XiXANG-HAX, or Chosan harbour of Broughton, who discovered
it in October 1797, is formed on the south-east coast of Korea in
hit. 35 6' N. The entrance is between Capes Young and Vashoo,
which bear N.N.E. A E. and S.S.W. ^ W., and are 3 miles apart ; from
thence the harbour trends in a N.W. direction 4-^ miles, and is from
one to 1^ miles wide. At 3 miles within the entrance there are some
rocks always above water, one of which, 6 feet high, lies nearly in mid-
channel, and the ]t:isige on either side of it is much narrowed by foul
ground extending from both shores ; otherwise the harbour is clear of
danger, and the soundings gradually decrease from 12 fathoms at entrance
to 3 fathoms at its head.*
Chosan is one of the most important harbours on the Korean coast, on
account of its being the entrepot of trade between that country and
Japan. It affords safe anchorage. All around the shores are populous
villages ; the land is well cultivated, and numerous streams falling into
the sea, afford easy watering places. Cattle, pigs, fish, poultry, wood,
and vegetables can be easily obtained ; also wild fowl in the cold
season.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, in Chosan harbour at
7h. 45m. : springs rise 7 feet, and neaps 5 feet ; neapj range 3 feet.
DIRECTIONS. The entrance to this harbour may be easily recognized
from the offing by the Black rocks, 90 feet high, lying off Cape Young,
the north point of entrance. These rocks are bold-to and may be
approached to a cable's length on their south side. At H miles westward
of Cape Young is an abrupt headland, 565 feet high, named by Broughton
Magnetic head, from its affecting the compass needles. His vessel
anchored to the westward of this headland in a fine sandy bay, with good
anchorage. IT.M.S. Nankin also anchored here in September 18.55, and
it is described as being a convenient place to water at, with good holding
ground, but a considerable swell must run in during a S.E. gale.
In steering to the westward for the best anchorage in the harbour,
pass about a cable's length to the southward of the rock, 6 feet high, lying
in mid-channel. West of the most southern of the rocks above water, and
nearly abreast a wooded hill, on which a white house stands out among
the trees, is a Japanese factory. The anchorage is about half a mile
eastward of the factory jetty, in a depth of 7 fathoms, black mud.
* See Plan of Tsau-liang-hai or Chosan Harbour, surveyed by Commander J. Ward,
H.N., in June 1859, No. 1,259 ; scale, m = 2 inches.
CHAP, xr.] . EAST COAST OF KOREA. 381
The COAST from Cape Young-, at the entrance of Chosau harbour,
ti-ends first in a N.E. by N. direction 28 miles to Tikmenef point,
then N. by E. 35 miles to Cape Clonard. Over the whole of this extent
it preserves a uniformly mountainous and desert character. The space
between the high mountain range, running in a parallel direction with
the shore, is occupied by rows of sand hills which are detached from the
range, and projecting towards the sea in abrupt points, form an unbroken
series of little bays which give no shelter. Close to the southward of
Tikmenef point there is an island of considerable size, which appears to
hide the mouth of a river or large bay.
TTNKOFSKY BAY. Cape Clonard, it lat. 36 of N., is the extremity
of a rather low peninsula, which advances boldly towards the north-east,
and is visible 18 or 20 miles off. It forms the easternmost point of this
part of the Korea, and the south side of the bay of Unkofsky, the extent
of which has not been determined; but which is 4 miles wide at its
mouth, comprised between the peninsula and Crown point to the north.
The trend of the bay is to the south-Avest ; it has 17 to 12 fathoms at
the entrance, and 7 fathoms with good anchoring ground at 2 miles from
its coast, but it is open to the prevalent autumnal winds, and those from
the north-east in \vinter. It appears clear of danger throughout, but the
north part of Cape Clonard must be avoided, as foul ground extends a
little distance from it.
The northern and southern shores of the bay have a marked difference
in character. Those on the south are elevated, the hills of the main
range here approaching the sea; they then retire at the centre of the bay,
resuming their original direction parallel Avith the coast. The northern
and western shores are of moderate height; the northern consists chiefly
of abrupt or steep sandy cliffs of snowy Avhiteness, Avith hills of the same
description. Several large settlements spread along the shores, the inha-
bitants being probably employed in fishing.
pzxtrG-HAX HARBOUR, in lat. 36 36' N., is a small creek in the sandy
coast surrounded by high hills. A conical shaped island lies at its en-
trance and shelters the Avhole roadstead. On the side of the island is a
large group of houses standing near the sea. The Pallas had 23 and 32
fathoms Avater within 1^ miles of the land ; and the Virginie, which
coasted it for 3 miles, had 27 fathoms. Moreover, the steep and rocky
shores seem to show that they are steep-to; there was no apparent danger
between the frigate and the shore, and the current towards the north
averaged 10 miles in twenty-four hours.
Three mountains rise to the S.W. of Ping-hai, and three rounded
summits of one sloping mountain at a little distance to the north. The
382 SEA OF JAPAN. [CHAP. xi.
mountains resemble each other ; they are however so situate, N.E. and
S.W., that their summits seem to rise one above the other.
The COAST from Unkofsky bay trends iii a northerly direction to
large round headland slightly advanced, named by the Virginie Cape
Pelissier. Its less mountainous character does not, however, dispel the
appearance of sterility, rows of round sand-hills occurring for a con-
siderable distance inland. To the W. by N. of the cape is a high
mountain, Mount Popof, of regular pyramidal form, and the highest of
those that occur near the shore.
From Cape Pelissier the coast changes its direction, and runs nearly
in a straight line N.N.W. for 120 miles to Cape Duroch. Between these
two capes there is not a bay worth mentioning ; the coast appears steep,
and there are a few houses near the water's edge.
Beyond the parallel of 38 N., the land becomes gradually depressed.
Groves of cedar trees cover the sides of the sloping mountains. The
Sedlovaya, or Saddle-shaped mountain, is the most remarkable elevation
along the coast. Its two blunt summits, with an arched slope between
them, rise about 5 miles inland in lat. 38 10^' N. ; the western summit
is the highest. Several considerable mountains, having more or less
pointed summits, surround this mountain on all sides, particularly on the
north.
Several small islands occur near the coast north of Sedlovaya mountain.
They are mostly desolate and rocky, intermingled with high reefs. The
bay, in lat. 38 42' N., is a small indentation of the coast, about a mile
wide, and less than a mile deep. Two islets lie at half a mile to the
west of its entrance, and are connected with its north extreme, which is
high and rocky, by a bed of rocks some of which are uncovered. The islets
at the south extreme of the bay are nothing but bare rocks, and serve as a
refuge for innumerable seals and penguins.
CAPE DUROCH, or Peschurof, forming the south point of Broughtou
bay, is a massive cliff presenting to the north-east a front 8 miles long and
bordered by rocks level with the water and close to the land. The depth
was 104 fathoms at 5 miles to the east, and 23 fathoms at less than a mile
north of the cape.
BROUGHTOir BAY (Korea gulf of the French charts), is 93 miles wide
between Cape Duroch on the south and Cape Petit Thouars on the
north, and 55 miles deep, and Yung-hing bay and Port Lazaref at its
head offer excellent shelter. The shores of the bay are winding and
mostly low, and vessels can anchor in a moderate depth off them with
safety.
CHAP, xi.] EAST COAST OF KOREA. 383
The north and south shores of Broughton bay are commanded by lofty
heights near the sea ; the Belavenz mountains, about 15 miles to the
south west of Cape Duroch, are respectively 6,092 and 5,884 feet above
the sea ; and to the north at 24 miles in the interior, W.N. W. of Cape
Petit Thouars, Mount Hienfung reaches the height of 8,113 feet. The
shores, although wooded and verdant, are varied occasionally by waste
lands and rocky cliffs.
After passing Cape Duroch, a moderate sized bay will open out with
a low sandy shore, and it probably affords good anchoring ground during
southerly winds, as in general all the bays examined on this coast invari-
ably do. A group of small islands and sunken rocks lie in the middle
and in north-west parts of this bay ; several of the islands have a few
cedar trees. From the north extreme of the bay the coast again becomes
winding and rocky, and gradually falls towards Feleny point.
POINT, with the islands adjoining it, is the southern
boundary of a shelving bay of moderate depth, 18 fathoms, at a distance
of 3 or 4 miles from the coast, and 5 fathoms within a few cables of it.
Mian-tsin-liang point, the north extreme of this bay, is high and abrupt,
and at a distance appears as an island, being separated from the shores of
the bay by low laud. A rocky islet, named Observation island, lies in
the centre of the bay, at 1^ miles from the shore.
MOUCHEZ xsiiAND (or Khalezov of the Russian chart), lies 8 miles
to the N.E. of Observation island, and 7 miles off shore, the channel
between being clear and safe. It is 475 feet high, and visible 24 miles
off. Coming from the southward, it is an excellent land-mark when
bound for Yung-hing bay. A shoal extends about half a cable from its
south-west point.
The COAST from Mian-tsin-liang point trends in a north-east direction
16 miles to Codrika point. On the north side of the low isthmus which
connects Mian-tsin-liang point with the mainland, is a small circular-
shaped bay, into which a clear rivulet empties itself, and on the shore
of which is the large village of Lon. The shores of the bay contain
much basalt ; the rocks of its northern point consisting almost exclusively
of basalt columns. From Lon bay, northward, the coast is indented by
small inlets with high points.
Codrika point, on which is a large village, is 328 feet high, and steep-
to. At three-quarters of a mile N.W. ^ W. of the point is Basalt or
Michaud islet, near which the depth is 6 to 8 fathoms. This islet has
two remarkable grottos, in each of which boats can freely enter ; their
sides consist of perpendicular basalt columns about 40 feet high.
384 SEA OF JAPAN. [CHAP. xi.
On the west side of Codrika point is a small bay, which is sheltered
from almost all winds except those from the N.E. The average sound-
ings are 8 fathoms in the entrance, between the point and Basalt islet,
and 1 1 fathoms in the bay. Two small rivulets flow to the west of a
high point in the centre of the bay ; some isolated huts appear on their
banks, forming together the village of Anbian.
YUNG-HXHTG BAT,* comprised between Ilary or Perier point to the
south, and Desfosses point to the north, has an area of about 10 square
miles. The depths are moderate, 1 1 fathoms in the middle, and 7 or 8
fathoms at 2 or 3 cables from the shores of the bay, over good holding
ground ; but the best shelter will be found to the northward, in Port
D "
Lazaref, which is formed on the western side of Nakhimof peninsula,
and which has an area of 4 square miles. The entrance to the bay is
fronted by a group of islands and rocks, which protect the anchorages
on their western sides from easterly winds.
NTXKOX.SXX, the largest and southern outer island of this group, in
of oblong form and 3 miles in circumference. It is high, and covered
with hills or mounds overgrown with cedars ; a small islet lies near its
north point, and another at half a mile from its south extreme. There
is a village on its west coast.
The French corvette Capriciense anchored in 7 fathoms about a mile
to the south-west of this island ; but this outer anchorage is of little
value, being 8 miles from the chief villages on the coast. The safest
channel into the bay is between the south-west point of Nikolski and
Ilary point ; it is about 3 miles wide, and carries a depth of 8 to
10 fathoms.
H.UPRIANOF ISLAND, lying 1 miles north of Nikolski, is some-
what smaller than the latter, also rounder and more desolate, forming, as
it were, one sloping mountain. The channel between these two islands
is apparently deep and safe, and convenient for vessels entering the bay.
AXWZHNTXOF ISLAND, at 3 miles west of Nikolski, is one mile
long, east and west, and three-quarters of a mile wide. It consists of
a series of hills crowned with cedars. The north side is steep and
straight ; the remaining shores though precipitous form little bays, at
the head of one of which is a village.
Two small but high islands lie off the south-west face of Annenkof,
* This bay and Port Lazaref were partially surveyed by the Russian frigate Pallas
in 1854, and the description is chiefly from the report of her voyagi*.
CHAP, xi.] EAST COAST OF KOREA. 385
and form with it a snug anchorage, carrying a depth of 10 fathoms.
The channel between these islands and Muravief point to the south-
west is three-quarters of a mile wide, and has 6 and 7 fathoms water
in it ; this point is the north extreme of a peninsula, which being
connected with the main by low land, makes at a distance like an
island.
vxsxixf EVSZIX isiiAwu, lying 2 miles north of Annenkof, is high
and narrow, and about half a mile in extent N.E. and S.W. With the
exception of its southern side, it is surrounded by a reef of sunken
and dry rocks. Within the reef is another small islet or rock.
The channel between this island and Annenkof carries a depth of
16 fathoms in the middle, decreasing gradually on both sides to 10
fathoms, at a distance of one or two cables from the shore.
In addition to the foregoing chief islands of the group, there are, as
already stated, several islets, which, with the exception of one, lie
eastward of Vishnevski, between it and Kuprianof island. Of these,
Cone islet is remarkable from its conical form ; all the others are more
or less alike. There are several rocks above water surrounded by
reefs, between these islets, as also north of them off the south face of
Nakhimof peninsula, of which Desfosses point is the south-east extreme :
some of these rocks from their whiteness are visible from a considerable
distance.
These dangers would offer some difficulties if attempting the channel
between the islets and Desfosses point. The channel is half a mile
wide between this point and the most northerly white rock, but a
sailing vessel might have baffling or light winds when passing the
south end of the peninsula.
PORT iiASAELSE* (Virgiiiie bay of the French charts), the entrance
to which is in the northern part of Yung-hing bay, is formed on
the west side of Nakhimof or Bosquet peninsula, which shelters it
from the eastward. It is 2 miles wide at entrance, from thence it
trends about 6 miles in a northerly direction, and its breadth varies
from If to 3^ miles. It carries a depth of 7 to 10 fathoms, over a
mud bottom. The peninsula is covered with high hills, from the
centre of which rises a sloping mountain with two sharp summits
W. by N. and E. by S. of each other. It is connected with the mainland
by a narrow sand spit, on which are several elevations having the
appearance of islands. Its western side is indented with small bays, on
the shores of which are villages. A sand spit extends a quarter of a
mile from Aliman point, its south-west extreme.
[C.] B B
386 SEA OF JAPAN. [CHAP. xr.
In the northern part of the port are two islands, and in its north-
west angle the mouth of the Dun-gan river. Butenef, the westernmost
and the largest of these islands, is 3^ miles in circumference, and all its
shores are steep except its eastern, from which a long spit extends in that
direction. The best anchorages are at 1^ miles, and at 3 miles within
the entrance. The first or outer anchorage is in 10 fathoms, mud, in the
middle of the "port, the water shoaling gradually to both shores. The
other or inner anchorage is in 8 fathoms, mud, in the channel a mile
wide between the south end of Butenef island and the shore to the
southward ; the latter is a convenient position for merchant vessels
receiving cargo.
From the inner anchorage towards the mouth of the river, the
soundings gradually decrease to 7 fathoms ; they then suddenly shoal
to 5 and 3 fathoms to the banks which front the entrance. These
banks approach very near the north-west end of Butenef island, and of
Trifanof point to the south-west, leaving narrow channels between.
The channel between the banks and the island is silted up at its northern
part ; that between the banks and the point leads into a wide though
shallow bay.
This shallow bay extends westward 2 miles from Trifanof point. Its
breadth at 'the entrance is about half a mile, becoming wider farther in.
The shores are winding and varied in character. There is an island at
the north-west angle, and two islets in the middle of the bay. The whole
of its northern part is occupied by a continuous reef, carrying only a few
feet water. This reef surrounds the two islets and extends to both the
north and south shores of the bay. The bay is thus divided into two
parts ; one west, and the other east, of the meridian of the islets. The
first or inner part is inaccessible from all sides ; the other or outer
part is connected with the north-west part of Port Lazaref by the
channel between the banks fronting the mouth of the river and Trifanof
point, and may serve as an excellent shelter for small vessels during
winter.
The river Dun-gan * (Eastern river) falls into the north-west part of
Port Lazaref, and with its collateral branches, occupies the whole plain
extending between two ranges of low hills. Winding along the plain, it
approaches first one and then the other range which border it. At its
mouth, the river divides into several shallow channels, formed by a group
of low marshy islands covered with villages. The breadth of the principal
channel is about 3 cables, and the entrance to it is difficult, from its
shallowness, and from its winding between the steep part of the banks
* River Aube of the French charts.
CHAP, xi.] EAST COAST OF KOREA. 387
before approaching the islands. The current of the river is weak, and
the water for a considerable distance from its mouth is of a bad colour
and taste.
Admiral Guerin, who visited this port in the Virginie in the year
1855, states that the surrounding land is well cultivated and populous,
particularly at the river's mouth. On the marshy island at the termi-
nation of the left bank there is a large village, apparently the commercial
emporium of a considerable town in the interior, and which the natives
said was the chief city of the province ; the information gathered from
them only making the distance from Yung-hing to Seoul (the capital
of Korea) 30 miles, and establishing the possibility of going there by
water ; the river probably extends as far as Seoul.
The bar of the river had 10 feet over it at low water, a depth which
seems to be the limit of the lowness of the river at this season (the height
of summer). From thence the course of the river was to the north, the
soundings gradually deepening to 5 fathoms to the distance of 6 miles
from its mouth, when it divided into several branches and appeared to
run to the westward through a large plain terminating in a chain of high
parallel mountains, covered with houses, hamlets, and villages.
Supplies. Fresh provisions, oxen, pigs, poultry, and vegetables, are
plentiful both in Yung-hing bay and Port Lazaref. Instead of procuring
water from the Dun-gan river, it will be preferable to obtain it from the
river Giffard, a clear and rapid stream in the south-west corner of the
bay.
TIDES. The tide streams are weak in Yung-hing bay ; their influence
being only felt in Port Lazaref. High water, full and change, at 5h. 20m.,
and springs rise 2^ feet.
DIRECTIONS. The approach to Yung-hing bay and Port Lazaref is
not accompanied with difficulty. Besides the mountain with the sharp
summits on Nakhimof peninsula, the proximity of the bay may be
recognized by the islands fronting it. As before stated, the channel
into the bay between the south end of the peninsula and the rocks and
islets fronting it, is narrow and intricate, and a sailing vessel might have
light or baffling winds when passing Desfosses point.
The middle channel between the two outer large islands is apparently safe
and convenient for vessels entering the bay. If entering by the southern
channel between Nikolski island and Ilary point, and between Nikolski
and Annenkof islands, do not stand towards the shore to a less depth than
7 fathoms. The channel between the two small islands lying off the
south-west face of Annenkof and Muravief point, the southern inner
point of the bay, although narrow, is clear and deep. The only danger
B B 2
388 SEA OF JAPAN. [CHAP. xr.
to avoid in entering Port Lazaref is the reef extending from Alimaii point,
the east point of entrance.
Tbe COAST after passing Nakliimhof peninsula trends to the North
and N.E., 54 miles to Cape Rouge (Cape Goncharof of the Russian charts).
As far as Trompeuse or Losef point, which is the eastern extreme of a
high headland in lat. 39 35' N., the shore is low and sandy ; several
sloping hills rise at a little distance inland. Between this headland and
Museef point, 13 miles to the N. by E., the coast forms an extensive bay,
the shores of which are low and sandy, and the soundings regular, 8 and
9 fathoms, over a bottom of fine sand. A round hill rises on the parallel
of the centre of the bay, and may serve as a good land-mark for vessels
entering, as it stands detached on a plain at a distance from the adjacent
hills and mountains.
In the northern part of this bay is an island about 2 miles in circum-
ference named Hodo (Flowery), with two islets off its eastern extreme,
separated from it by a narrow rocky channel. The northern part of the
island, as well as a portion of the western part, are sandy ; the remainder
is rocky and high. The channel between its north-west end and the mam
is about a mile wide, but it is partly blocked up by a shoal which extends
nearly half way across it from the island towards the main. The other
part of the channel is probably shallow ; large fishing boats were, how-
ever, seen to pass through it.
At 3 miles to the S.E. of Hodo are two small isolated rocks.
Leaving the bay with an easterly wind, the Pallas had 9 fathoms between
these rocks and the coast, but in attempting to pass between them and
the island, the depth decreased to 6 fathoms, which compelled her to go
south of them. A river disembogues in the northern part of the bay.
The coast from Museef point trends to the north-east towards Cape
Petit Thouars, and is moderately high, and indented by bays with
cliffy shores and points. Along its whole extent it is bordered by
scattered rocks and some islands, the largest of which are, an island
3 miles in circumference, lying off the south side of Anjou point, and an
island lying off Cape Rouge. This latter has rocky shores, and is
divided into two parts by a narrow creek, and forms with the coast
a channel about half a mile wide,? with an islet at its eastern end.
This channel, providing there are no dangers in it, presents a good and
apparently a safe harbour.
On the parallel of Museef and Anjou points two high peaks show
themselves inland. Anjou] point is 'perpendicular and high. Cape
Rouge from its peculiar aspect, and having a high peak about 5 miles to
the north-west of it, may be easily recognized. There are several villages
CHAP, xi.] EAST COAST OF KOREA. 389
hei'eabouts at the bottom of the creeks and bays, and traces of cultivation
on the heights. Weirich point to the north-east of this cape, is a long
narrow spit with three hills rising on it. There is a village on this
point.
CAPE PETIT THOTTARS, or Schwartz, seen from the south, makes
in the form of a mamelon or small eminence, commanded by a conical
but flat-topped hill a little west of it. The face of the cape is formed
by a great reddish cliff, 5 miles long, off which is a small pointed
islet. To the W.N.W. of the cape, at 20 miles inland, the range of
the Hienfung mountains, 8,113 feet high, is a conspicuous object. Be-
tween this cape and Cape Rouge the soundings were 27 to 37 fathoms at
2 miles outside the points.
CAPE BRTTAT or Boltin, 60 miles farther to the north-east, forms the
eastern extreme of a chain of mountains, which presents two pointed
summits 50 miles apart, the northern or Mount Tao Kwang reach 6,309
feet ; the range slopes by a gradual declivity towards the east, where it
terminates in a low cliff. Cape Bruat rises 1,541 feet above the mean
level of the sea, and forms with Cape Schlippenback, 27 miles to the
south-west, a deep bay in which the lead gave 23 to 24 fathoms at above
2 miles off shore.
cocxs COMB ROCKS. The approach to the above bay is well
marked by some jagged white rocks in the form of a cock's comb.
They lie 10 miles from the coast in lat. 40 41^' N. There is also a
group of three islets, named Arevief isles, connected together by shoals,
in the northern part of this bay, in front of and at If miles from a
projecting hill. The Pallas passed inside these islets, between them
and the coast, and found the channel deep, 16 fathoms, and clear of shoals.
The COAST from Cape Bruat turns abruptly to the northward and
takes a X. by E. trend for 31 miles to Cape Kozakof, or D'Apres of the
French charts. For the first 10 miles it is an inaccessible and perpen-
dicular wall. The vegetation along its extent is very poor, not a tree or
hovel being visible until near the cape, when villages again appear near
the shore.
Cape Kozakof is a bluff rocky projection, about 2,615 feet high, and the
limit of the high coast line ; beyond it the coast turns to the N.W., and
forms an extensive bay, 24 miles wide, north and south, and 6 miles deep,
but open to the east. The depth was 40 fathoms in its northern part
and no danger. Mount Stolovaya, a conspicuous object on this part of the
coast, rises 5 miles inland West of the cape. To the north of this elevation
several detached hillocks and hills present themselves along the coast.
390 SEA OF JAPAN. [CHAP. xi.
Daussy or Kolokozev point, elevated 1,791 feet, and in lat. 41 47' 40" N.,
is the north-east termination of a small bay formed between it and Urusof
point to the south. From hence the coast curves to the north-east,
assumes a more hilly appearance, and small islands and rocks lie off.
To the north-east of Bougarel or Linden point the shore is indented by a
series of small bays as far as the large bay of Goshkevich. At 7 miles
to the N.E. of Bougarel point, and near the shore, is a group of high,
rocky, and desolate islets, named Avvakum. The group consists of two
large islets, about the same size, with some smaller ones ; the soundings
were 20 to 26 fathoms near them.
GOSHXEVZCH BAY is formed between a steep point to the north-east
of the Avvakum group and Casy or Sisdro point, the south extreme of the
Sisuro peninsula. In some of its nooks it has convenient anchoring
ground, protected nearly from all sides. A round island, rather remark-
able for the regularity of its form, and a smaller one near it, lie at the
head of the bay. An island with white cliffs, and surrounded by rocks,
named by the Eussians Bielaya Skala, or White Cliffs, lies in the middle
of the entrance, at 3 miles S. W. of Casy point.
The northern shores of the bay are sloping, and the bay is connected to
the north-east with a deep basin. This connexion is not visible from
seaward. The basin was accidentally .discovered during the survey of the
shores of the Tumen river, and was not examined.
Sisuro peninsula, the south-eastern extremity of this bay, is connected
with the mainland by a very narrow isthmus ; its sides, with the exception
of the one facing the isthmus, are rocky. Sisuro village stands ou the
east side of the peninsula, on the shores of a small bay, convenient of
access for fishing boats ; the village is large and surrounded by low stone
walls. This little bay is formed by the peninsula, the mainland, and a
small promontory, which is also united with the mainland by a narrow
spit. This promontory, and the inconsiderable precipitous mountains to
the N.E., are the principal landmarks for the mouth of the Tumen, with-
out which there would be difficulty in finding it on the sandy coast. The
limit of muddy water extends too far off shore to serve as a guide to the
position of the river's mouth.
M. Rocquemaurel, captain of the French corvette Capricieusc, in his
report says, "Casy point is only 153 feet high. At 10 or 12 miles
off it resembles a large rock scarped and jagged like the profile of
a Venetian fort. Completely isolated from the mountains which rise
above it to the north, it appears severed from the shore, to which it is
joined by a long low beach trending N.N.E. About 18 miles inland, to
the west, Mount Chienlong, rising 4,215 feet above the sea level, appears
CHAP, xi.] EAST COAST OF KOREA. 391
to form the north-eastern range of heights that extends some 30 miles to
the south-west, at about 10 miles inland. A large river enters the sea
at 4 miles to the east of Casy point."
" To the eastward of the river the range of mountains suddenly change
their direction to the N.W., leaving a large valley between them. The
remarkable structure of the ground consists generally in beds of gneiss or
schist thrown up so to form cliffs or pointed hills, which rise abruptly
from a low swampy shore ; everything bears the stamp of a complete
change in soil, climate, and people."
The TUitXEN KXANG, or Tsing-hing, the position of which is vaguely
marked on the charts of Laperouse and Broughton, separates the Korea
from the vast territory occupied by the Manchu Tartars ; and by the
Russo-Chinese treaty of 14th November 1860, it now forms the southern
limit of the Russian territory on the shores of the sea of Japan. Its em-
bouchure, which opens in the middle of a low plain, is at 4 miles eastward
of Casy point, in lat. 42 19' N.
This river, which was examined for the first 10 miles from its entrance
by the boats of the Pallas in 1854, not only serves as the northern
boundary of the Korea, but is the limit of the mountainous coast line.
It is bounded on the west from its fall to the sea, a distance of 10 miles,
by a high projection of the coast, on the west side of which is Goshkevich
bay, and by a sloping depression of the land on the east.
From sea the entrance is only observable on account of the elevation of
its right bank. A long sand-spit, extending from the left bank, narrows
the entrance, and forms a bar carrying 9 feet water. The channel is
winding, the soundings in it are irregular, from 3 to 1 fathoms, and even
less ; and it runs between numerous shoals and banks, several of which
appear above water in the form of low islands. This renders the naviga-
tion of the river difficult, and higher up from its mouth it becomes so
shallow as to be fordable.
The right bank of the Tumen is hilly, and terminates in steep sandy
slopes ; the left bank presents an extensive plain, covered with lakes, or
rather marshes, filled with brackish water. The banks preserve this
character for about 10 miles (the extent examined). As regards its course
higher up, no positive information could be procured from the Koreans,
who are in general taciturn ; judging, however, from the first 10 miles, it
was supposed that the banks gradually became more sandy.
u ANVILLE GULF is comprised between Casy point to the south, and
Cape Hugon or Gamova to the north, about 33 miles apart. This latter
cape, rising 1,800 feet above the sea, is the end of a long peninsula
extending to the south, and is formed by a conical mountain sloping
392 SEA OF JAPAN. [CHAP. xi.
gently to the north, where, as in the south, it ends in steep cliffs. It is
visible 30 miles off, and coming from the north-east is a good landmark
for this gulf, as Casy point does from the south.
The land at the bottom of the gulf is low, marshy, and broken by a
range of steep bluffs, resembling at a little distance a group of islands.
At the head of the gulf are the anchorages, named by the French Capri-
cieuse bay, Port Louis, and Rade Napoleon ; the latter is called by the
Russians Posiette harbour.*
CA.SSINI zsiiANB, or Furngelm of the Russian chart, lying in the
south-west part of D'Anville gulf, is 3 miles in circumference and 413 feet
high. It forms a good mark for entering the gulf, when distinguishable
from the high lands to the north-west, with which it is generally blended
when approaching it from the southward. There are two villages on its
west face. A reef of rocks extends more than half a mile from its
south-west point, and another reef projects from its north-west point.
At half and two-thirds of a mile N.N.E. ^ E. and E. by N. f N. respec-
tively from its north-eastern point lie the Pilier and Buoy rocks, near
which no soundings have been made ; the latter rock hardly shows at
high water.
The channel between Cassini and the coast is 3^ miles wide, and carries
12 to 18 fathoms water, but in the middle lies the Baleine or Whale rock
above water.
aux MOVXiES, or Mussel cove, is partly sheltered to the south-
east by Cassiui island, and to the north-east by Bodisco peninsula, the
summit of which, named Mount Direction, is 820 feet high ; the penin-
sula is joined to the coast by a low isthmus, on which is a village. The
cove is If miles deep, north and south, and one mile wide at its entrance,
which is narrowed by a reef of rocks, awash, stretching nearly 2 cables
off the west shore.
The depth, 8 fathoms, at the entrance of this cove, decreases gradually
up to the sandy beach, near which there are 16 feet. The holding ground
is not good, being composed of fine sand and gravel with but little clay.
It is open from S.S.E. and E.S.E., but the force of the sea from the latter
direction is expended on Patau point, the south-east end of the peninsula.
With the wind from S.E. to S.S.E. a heavy swells sets in, and makes the
* The French corvette Capricieusc examined this Gulf and the anchorages at its head
in 1852. It was still farther examined by the Russian frigate Pallas in 1854, and it was
here that her survey terminated. In 1855 a survey was made of D'Anville Gulf, and
the gulfs of Guerin and Napoleon by F. H. May, Master of H.M.S. Winchester, and
D. H. Wilder, Master of H.M.S. Nankin. See Plan of Victoria Bay and D'Anville
Gulf, No. 2,432 ; scale, d = 15 inches : and Plan of Napoleon Road and Port Louis,
No. 2,507 ; scale, m = 2 inches.
CHAP, xi.] COAST OF TARTAR?. 393
anchorage unsafe. The highest tides observed in this cove hardly rose
3i feet.
SAT, comprised between Mount Direction to the south
and Klaproth point to the north, is 5 miles deep N.W. and S.E., with a
mean width of 3 miles. It affords fair anchorage within Balbi and Malte-
Brun points, the inner points of the bay, in from 12 to 5 fathoms, over a
bottom of mud. The best position is in 7 fathoms, mud, a long mile south
of Porzic point. But as this bay is open to S.E. winds, which throw in a
heavy swell, it can only be considered as a temporary anchorage 'for
vessels waiting to pass the entrance into Napoleon road, which, with Port
Louis, form secure basins at its head.
DIRECTIONS. When wishing to enter Capricieuse bay it will be
necessary for a vessel either to sight Casy point or Cape Hugon, to make
sure of her position ; sighting Cassini island must not be depended on,
although it is iu the offing, because it is often blended with the high lands
which tower over it to the north-west.
If beating up against north-west winds, which are often fresh, a vessel
should, when standing to the south-west towards the Pilier and Buoy
rocks, go about when Malte-Brun and Bergasse points come in line bear-
ing N.W. 5 N. ; the latter rock is nearly covered at high water.
The Winchester* left Tsugar strait on the 16th August, and about
noon on the 20th, in lat. 42 41' N., long. 134 27' E., made the coast of
Tartary. A thick fog coming on, no distinct view of the coast could be
obtained until the morning of the 23rd, when high land was observed to
the northward, extending from N.E. by N. to N.N.W. ^ W. ; that to the
westward was supposed to be Cape Hugon. Stood towards it, and after
making the Pelees islands shaped a course for Capricieuse bay, carrying
regular soundings from 25 to 13 fathoms ; but this bay not affording
shelter from the S.E., ran into Napoleon road, the plan of which being
found very incorrect, a fresh survey was made.
WAPOiiEOU HOAD is a good and secure harbour, and affords a safe
retreat for vessels not wishing to ride out a south-easterly gale in Capri-
cieuse bay. The entrance to it between the Musoir rock, which is the
northern termination of the sandy spit at the head of this bay, and
Porzic point, the west extreme of Cuvier peninsula is nearly half a
mile wide, but it is divided into two channels by a large bare rock named
the Mingan. The eastern of these channels should on no account be
taken, as the ground is rocky and uneven, with a depth of only 4^ fathoms
* The remarks on Victoria bay are by Francis H. May, Master of H.M.S. Winchester,
1855.
394 SEA OF JAPAN. [CHAP. xi.
in its centre. The channel on the west side of the Mingan must be
entered with caution, for it is narrow, and a shoal extends nearly half way
across from the Musoir, so that it is advisable rather to close the Mingan,
as it is almost steep-to on its western side.
On entering the road, take care to avoid a small knoll with 3^
fathoms water on it, and 5 or 6 fathoms close to, which can be done
by borrowing on the northern side of the fairway, as the knoll is directly
or very nearly in the centre.
The observation spot at the entrance on the Musoir rock is in
lat. 42 37' 22" N., long. 130 44' 10" ; the meridian distance from
Hakodadi being Oh. 39m. 43s. 8, differing 7 miles from the chart of the
French corvette Capricieusc.
Water can be procured from the river in the north-east part of Napoleon
road, but on account of the shallowness of the entrance none but small
boats can go in except at high tide. The Winchester was a whole day
procuring one turn of water with the boom boats, as the casks had to be
rolled from the bar to about half a mile up the river to the fresh water, it
being brackish at the entrance.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, at the entrance to Napoleon
road, at 2h. 30 m., and the rise is about 2^ feet.
PORT LOUIS. After passing through the channel into Napoleon road
between the Musoir and Mingan rocks, Port Louis will open out to the
eastward, and Napoleon road to the westward. There are no dangers
after the port is open, and the spits off some of the points can be
avoided by attention to the lead. There is anchorage any where in
mid-channel, with good holding ground, mud and sand, and land-locked.*
A hard sandy spit runs across the upper part of the port, where several
very fine bullocks and horses were observed to cross at low water. Above
this spit is a large lagoon, about 2^ miles across each way, with irregular
soundings in it, from 2^ fathoms to 4 feet. The port abounds with
fish.
Water. There are several small runs of good water, which are marked
on the plan of Port Louis, and one spring, from which about 10 tons
per day might be collected, all close to the shore. There are also various
beds of oysters, and one of large mussels. The hills are covered with long
grass, and abound with pheasants, partridges, and foxes ; and the low
ground, which is swampy, with woodcock and snipe.
* The description of Port Louis is by David H. Wilder, Master of H.M.S. Nankin,
1854.
CHAP, xi.] COAST OF TARTARY. 395
GUXF of GUERiN The Winchester left Napoleon road September
3rd, and rounding Cape Hugon, passed between it and the Pelees islands ;
from thence she proceeded in a north-easterly direction into the Gulf of
Guerin, 40 miles in extent, in which there are several good anchorages.
The only danger seen was a rock awash, lying about N.W. ^ W. three-
quarters of a mile from the northernmost of the three small islets west of
the Pelees islands. To the north-west of these islets is a bay in which
the Styx anchored in 8 fathoms sandy bottom, but it only affords shelter
in northerly and westerly winds.
WHITE ciiiFF BAY. Passing between Red Cliff island and the main,
a bay, named White Cliff, was observed, which apparently affords good
shelter, but there was no opportunity of examining it. The south point,
with rocks off it, should not be approached too near, as irregular sound-
ings were obtained when in its vicinity.
ROCK. The Winchester passed eastward of the two-
islands fronting White Cliff bay, (there may be a channel between them
and the main,) near the northernmost of which there is a remarkable rock
called the Ninepin. About 3 miles northward of these islands is a
conspicuous cliffy point, which forms the south-east point of a secure and
deep bay, named Port Bruce.
PORT BRUCE is an excellent harbour and well protected ; the Eugenie
archipelago, which fronts it, forming a good breakwater in south-easterly
winds. There is no difficulty in working into this port, as there are 1O
fathoms close to Column point, the south point of entrance, and the
same depth near the islands on its northern side. The soundings are
regular, and a vessel may anchor near the head of the port, where there
is a small river, in 4 fathoms water, good holding ground. Fish and
potatoes were procured from the natives, and they appear to be amply
provided with those necessaries.
SANDY POINT. From Column point, a high table hill will be seen-
to the north-eastward, with a tuft of trees on its summit, called Mount
Virginie, and another farther in the same direction named Mount Win-
chester, the eastern slope of which terminates in a low sandy point, in
lat 43 09' N., long. 131 50' E. The Winchester anchored near this
point in 6^ fathoms, mud, with Sandy point bearing S. by W. 1 W. j
River islet, N.N.E. E.; East islet, E. S., and Aube bluff, E.byN. N.
This anchorage is good and quite land-locked.
There is an extensive bay in the north-east part of Guerin gulf, but
396 SEA OF JAPAN. [CUAP. xi.
the water in it is shallow. The eastern side of the gulf is formed by
Albert peninsula, and an extensive archipelago.
water. At the head of Guerin gulf there is a river apparently of
some extent, where good water can be procm*ed about a mile from the
entrance ; but the same difficulty would be experienced in watering
as at the one already alluded to in Napoleon road. The distance from
Sandy point to the entrance of the river is 7 miles. A vessel might
anchor within 3 miles of the entrance, as the depths gradually shoal
towards it.
Wood can be obtained on any part of the coast, the land being covered
with trees and the beach with drift-wood.
NAP o LEO 21 CTTiiP. The Winchester anchored near the western
entrance of Hamelin strait in 14 fathoms, mud, and on the 10th of Sep-
tember the Styx proceeded through the strait, and steamed round an
extensive inlet called Napoleon gulf. The boats only landed at its
head, where there is a river, but nothing could be seen of the least
indication of a good harbour, although it was thought there was one on
its eastern side. The gulf is about 30 miles long and about 16 broad,
abreast of Hamelin strait, and the land everywhere is bold, and resembles
that of the Gulf of Guerin.
HAiYiEi.irj STRAIT, which is the passage between Albert peninsula
and the islands forming the Eugenie archipelago, is 6 miles long, and about
half a mile broad in its narrowest part. At its western entrance there is
a sand spit stretching half-way across the passage from the northern
point (Knob point) ; the spit is steep-to, having 28 fathoms water with-
in a ship's length of it. When past the spit there is no danger, and
a vessel may run or work through, by paying common attention to the
lead.
PORT r/iAY, on the northern side of Hamelin strait, is an excellent
harbour, where a vessel may lie quite land-locked in 8 or 9 fathoms
water over a muddy bottom. The land is high, and for the most part
thickly wooded.
EUGENIE ARCHIPELAGO extends in a south-west direction from
Albert peninsula, and separates Guerin and Napoleon gulfs. There are
some good harbours in it, named Port Deans Dundas,* Port Stewart,
and Wilder bay, affording shelter for ships of the largest draught, and
no doubt good water can be procured at these as well at every other
* See Plan of Port Deans Dundas, No. 2,407 ; scale, m = 3 inches.
CHAP, xi.] COAST OF TARTARY. 397
part of this coast by digging wells ; but no running streams of any size
were seen.
A stranger might be led to suppose that there is a passage through
Wilder bay into Napoleon gulf; but a bar runs across, with only 2\
fathoms water on it.
There are two other excellent outlets from Guerin gulf into Victoria
bay, called Fellowes passage and Currie channel ; by the latter the
Winchester proceeded through to sea.
HORNET BAY is formed at the eastern extreme of Victoria bay,
and Captain C. C. Forsyth, who discovered it in H.M.S. Hornet in July
1856, describes it as a spacious inlet, carrying a moderate depth up to its
head, but open to southerly winds. There is snug anchorage on its
western side, between the mainland and an islet, named Fox island, in
lat. 42 41' N., long. 132 56' E. At the head of the bay, a river, appa-
rently of some magnitude, was observed flowing round the foot of a
peculiar conical hill ; it was named Lyons river after Lord Lyons. Many
villages and several herds of cattle were seen. The country is thickly
populated, and the natives freely bartered their vegetables for old clothes,
bottles, &c.
ISLET POINT The Hornet in running along this coast, observed
several small islands on either side of a cape, named Islet point, which
is in lat. 42 49' N., and 37 miles eastward of Hornet bay. An anchorage
might be found inside these islands, for there was no apparent danger
near them.*
POST BEXCHAEZ, SEVitxouxt (Olga bay of the Russian charts), in
lat. 43 46' N., was discovered by the Hornet, July 1856. It is open to
the south-east, but is protected by high land from north-west and
south-westerly winds. There is shelter for a few vessels in all winds
in its northern part, in 10 fathoms, over a muddy bottom. At the
north-east part of the port there is a narrow passage, named Brown
channel, leading into another harbour or estuary, which is well
adapted for careening purposes, as there is but little rise and fall, the
water at all times smooth, and deep close to its southern bank ; a fresh
water river empties itself at its head. Brown channel has from 3 to 4
fathoms water in it, deepening to 6 and 7 fathoms towards the Careening
harbour.f
* This anchorage, named Siau Wuhu bay, was surveyed in 1859 by Commander
Ward, R,N.
f See Plan of Port Michael Seymour, No. 2,511 ; scale, m = 2 inches.
398 SEA OF JAPAN. [CHAP. xi.
A large river (Gilbert river) empties itself into the north-west angle of
the port. The mouth is broad and shallow, but soon deepens when over
the bar. The river flows in the bed of a deep valley, with high moun-
tains on either side of it, and few places are void of vegetation, save some
abrupt and precipitous crags ; the valley itself consisting of marshy and
turfy land, with flat islands in the course of the river. A few miles up
the river divides into branches, and becomes shallow and narrow.
Supplies. In this port the seine will always procure an abundance of
capital fish, such as salmon and trout, in any spot where it is possible to
haul it, and particularly near a stream ; a few fowls may also be pro-
cured, and a small supply of fresh beef. The watering stream runs
through a valley on the eastern side of the port, near the ordinary an-
chorage. A thick growth of oaks, hazel, and willows completely hides it
from view, and fine ferns, though limited in variety, grow on the banks
and under every cliff. Wood may be obtained in any quantity ; also good
oak knees for boats.
TIDES. At Port Michael Seymour it is high water, full and change,
at 5h. 30m., and the rise is about 3 feet.
DIRECTIONS. The position of Port Michael Seymour may be easily
known when approaching it from the northward by Brydone island, a
high island on the eastern side of its entrance, and the only one on this
part of the coast. This island is steep on its eastern side, and sloping on
its western, and appears to be joined to the mainland by a reef of rocks ;
no bottom was obtained with 20 fathoms line within a quarter of a mile
from its southern side, which appears to be free from danger. When
within the entrance keep the starboard shore aboard, but not nearer than
a good cable's length, as it is fronted by a steep bank.
When approaching from the southward the entrance will be plainly
distinguished by the opening in the land. A few miles to the southward
of it is a low flat cape, named Low point, which should not be approached
nearer than half a mile, as heavy ripplings were seen off it.
From Low point the coast trends more to the westward and its features
become changed ; the country is less wooded, and several sandy beaches,
many villages, cattle, and boats were observed.
ST. VIAOIMIR BAT, the entrance to which is in lat. 43 54' N.,
was discovered by the Russian frigate America, in 1857. Its entrance,
formed by the peninsula Baliuzeka to the north, and Vachofski to the
.-outh, which are each joined to the mainland by a low isthmus, is 1 miles
wide, and open to the east. From thence the bay extends westward, and
forms three inlets, one to the north, one to the south, and the other, which
is the smallest, to the west. Those to the north and south are vast circular
CHAP. XL] COAST OF TARTARY. 399
basins separated from each other by a hilly and wooded peninsula, and
both are surrounded and sheltered by adjacent high hills covered with
wood. The depths are 5 to 15 fathoms in the northern, and the soundings
are about the same in the southern inlet, where the America anchored.*
In this latter inlet, which is more completely sheltered, would be found
every facility for careening and repairing a ship. To the south it com-
municates by a stream with a natural basin, in which are 16 to 10 feet
water, and with little trouble it might be formed into a graving dock.
The northern inlet forms an excellent outer harbour, where a ship might
anchor when ready for sea.
In entering St. Vladimir bay, and having passed between the two
elevated peninsulas which form the entrance, steer to the southward for
the southern inlet. Be careful to keep midway between the two points of
entrance of this inlet, as they are fronted by rocks and foul ground, which
extend upwards of 2 cables off shore. The best anchorage is in 10 fathoms,
about half a mile south of Low point, the east point of entrance, and a
quarter of a mile from the eastern shore.
There is no fixed population in this bay, and from the report of other
natives, it appears that these inlets are only frozen over from the middle
of December to the middle of February ; the entrance of the bay remains
in a gi-eat measure free from ice by the effect of the offing swell.
TIDES. The tides are irregular in this bay. It is high water, full and
change, at Ih. Om., and the range is about 2 feet.
Ttoe COAST from St. Vladimir bay trends in a N.E. by N. direction to
Barracouta harbour, in 49 2' N., and then N. by E. to Castries bay, and
is free from apparent danger. Its outline was but imperfectly known
until 1855, when H.M. ships Sybille and Barracouta sailed along it, and
determined the following points and anchorages.
SHELTER BAT, in 44 28' N., affords shelter from N.E. and E.N.E.
winds. Good fresh water can be obtained in a river a cable wide, with a
bar at its mouth, within which there is a depth of 9 feet, over a fine sandy
bottom. The land is high to the northward of this bay, and its aspect is
that of bluff and barren headlands.
STBIX.X.& BAT, in 44 44' N., affords shelter against S.S.E. winds ;
its entrance is remarkable from having on either side some prominent
pinnacled rocks, high and isolated. The south side of the bay is high
and rocky, with email deep valleys opening towards the sea ; many large
rocks lie along the beach. The north side consists of a series of hills,
* See Plan of St. Vladimir bay, surveyed by Commander J. Ward, R.N., in 1859,
No. 2,773 ; scale, m = 3 inches.
400 GULF OF TARTARY. [CHAP. xi.
clay and sand. The bay is closed by a broad valley, through which some
streams run and form a small river, which empties itself into the bay.
The bay becomes gradually shallow towards the valley ; the bottom is
rocky, and covered*by a thick growth of seaweed.
PIQUE BAT, in lat. 44 46' N., has good shelter from N.E. and easterly
winds. The best anchorage is in 5 fathoms, with the point bearing
S.E. by E. There is good water in a river, separated from the" bay by a
spit of sand, at the mouth of which is a bar. Cattle may be obtained at
this anchorae.
BAY, in 45 2' N., affords but bad anchorage. Bullocks
and fowls can be procured, but with difficulty, although they may be
frequently seen near the beach ; but it is necessary to search for the
natives in the interior.
Luke point, in 45 19^' N., is high, bluff, and woody. Cape Disappoint-
ment, 22 miles to the north-east of this point, has rocks extending a cable
from it.
GULF OF TARTARY.
From Cape Disappointment, in lat. 45 40^' N., the coast of Tartary
trends to the north-east, and forms with the west coast of Saghalin island
a long channel named by Laperouse, the Manche or strait of Tartary.
Strictly speaking, however, it should still be the Gulf of Tartary, as the
strait can hardly be considered to begin until the parallel of about 51 X.
On the parallel of Castries bay the coasts of Tartary and Saghalin con-
verge rapidly ; and abreast of Cape Catherine, in 51 57' N., they are
only 7 miles apart ; 17 miles farther north, between Capes Lazaref and
Pogobi, they approach to within 3^ miles ; and this is the gorge of the
strait, and the entrance into the Gulf of Amur.
The only ports at present known in the gulf are Barracouta harbour
and Castries bay on its western side, and Jonquiere bay on its eastern ;
there are, however, on both coasts many indentations, which may afford
occasional shelter. The anchorage along the eastern shore is safe during
the summer months, when easterly winds prevail ; but a vessel must be
prepared to weigh, should the wind veer to the west.
The coast on both sides of this gulf is high. On the eastern shore the
country is everywhere thickly wooded, but in no way cultivated ; towards
the end of May or beginning of June, when the snow disappears, it has a
most inviting appearance, and presents an agreeable variety of hill and
dale, with streams and torrents. It appears to be thinly inhabited by a
CHAP, xi.] WINDS AND WEATHER. 401
simple-minded race of people of small stature and dark complexion, with
features partaking of, but more developed than the Chinese character ;
they subsist chiefly upon fish, consequently locate themselves on the sea
shore.
No dangers have as yet been observed off either coast of the gulf. The
soundings decrease gradually towards its shores, though near the head-
lands, and, where the coast looks bold, as may be expected, deep water is
carried closer in, and the lead gives shorter warning of approach to
land ; a peculiarity, however, in the soundings has been noticed off some
parts of the west coast of Saghalin, the water there being found to deepen
when approaching within 3 or 4 miles of the land.
The soundings in the northern part of the gulf, from 51 N. northward,
vary from 46 to 26 fathoms, which latter is on the parallel of Castries
bay, whence they rapidly decrease to 16, 10, 7, and 4 fathoms, in 51 42' N.,
abreast Cape Chihachef, and which may be considered the bar of the strait,
unless, indeed, there be deep water close under this cape or over towards
Saghalin, which seems doubtful.* To the northward of this spot the
Avater deepens to 8 and 10 fathoms, which depth, with few exceptions,
is carried up to the gorge.
The navigation of the gulf would be simple enough, but the fogs render
it dangerous, requiring the greatest caution to be observed. It has been
remarked by former voyagers that on nearing the land in these seas a
vessel will suddenly emerge from the fog or find it lift ; this was found
frequently to be the case by H.M. ships in 1855-56, but of course it would
not be prudent to run for the land in full reliance on such an occurrence ;
the best method appears to be to stand in cautiously for the land in the day-
time, when a clearance from fog, as just described, may be met with.
SUPPLIES. Wood and water can be procured in abundance, and with
facility on all parts of the coast of the Gulf of Tartary, and coal of fair
quality in any quantity at Jonquiere bay.
Fish and wild fowl are plentiful ; very fine codfish have been caught in
soundings from 73 to 30 fathoms.
WINDS. During May, June, and July, the winds in this gulf
prevailed from the southward and eastward, sometimes blowing a
double and even treble reefed topsail breeze : occasionally in May a
furious south-easterly gale and snow storm, lasting 10 or 12 hours, has
been experienced, and they may be expected with a previously freshening
breeze from East and S.E., and sometimes a rapidly falling barometer ; the
* It does not appear clearly whether Admiral Kusnetsof with his squadron in 1858
passed to the eastward or westward of this bar.
[C.] C C
402 GULF OF TARTARY. [CHAP. xi.
wind in these storms rises suddenly and falls equally so, and will most
probably veer to South, S. W., West, and perhaps N.W.
In the end of August and during October the winds were chiefly from
S.W. to N.W and North ; they are probably the same in September.
In October foul weather appears to come on as the wind draws to the
eastward of North, but by all accounts the heaviest gales may be expected
from N.W., and these prevail through the winter.
FOGS. From March till August fogs are almost continuous in the gulf,
with scarcely any clear interval for more than a day or two at a time ;
they are most prevalent and dense in June, and are immediately dispersed
in S.W. winds ; the mercury is little affected by them.
In August, September, and part of October, fair clear weather comes in
agreeable contrast, although in the latter month snow occasionally falls.
The change of weather about the middle of October is sudden, winter
generally usurping the warmth of summer in a day and setting in with all
i ts vigour ; at this period ice begins to form in the northern part of the
gulf, and the season for sailing vessels to be in the gulf on ordinary
occasions must be considered as having terminated.
The barometer in May, June, and July, 1853. ranged between 29*65
in. and 30 '28 in., once, however, falling to.29 in. in a heavy south-
easterly gale. The temperature in April and May was registered by
thermometer from 30 to 50, in June and July 45 to 60 ; in the
latter half of October, in Castries bay, it was seldom above freezing
point, and sometimes as low as 18.
TIDES. The tides in the Gulf of Tartary are regular close in shore,
the flood stream setting to the northward, the ebb to the southward.
The currents are uncertain and irregular.
BAT, formed by Cape Suflren to the south, in lat. 47 20* N.,
is but an exposed anchorage. Its shores are fringed by a low shingle beach
on which the sea constantly breaks ; it is surrounded by vast forests.
which extend out of sight. The cape is fronted by rocks, which stretch
half a mile out to the offing.
riSH HIVER. in 47 55' N., has anchorage off its entrance in 9 fathoms
at about a mile from the land sheltered from N.W. and westerly winds.
x.ow CAPE, in 48 28' N., has high land behind it, and a depth of
8 fathoms was obtained a mile offshore.
From Low cape the coast line northward is irregular for 15 miles ; it
then trends N. by E. 20 miles to Beachy head ; it is steep-to, the lead
giving 14 to 17 fathoms at 2 miles from the shore. High snowy moun-
CHAP, xi.] SUFFREN BAY. - BARRACOUTA HARBOUR. 403
tains are visible inland, and pine forests cover the ground to the coast,
which is hilly, and in cliffs.
HARBOUR. The entrance to this harbour, (named
also Hadshi bay and Port Imperial), in lat. 49 2' N. is between
Freeman point, the north point of entrance, and Tullo island, which
bear N. by W. and S. by E. from each other, distant three-quarters
of a mile. The general depths in the bay are 5 to 15 fathoms over
a mud bottom. The entrance is open to the eastward, but within the
bay are several inlets, which afford* shelter for all classes of vessels. The
only danger is the Carr bank, with 1^ and 2 fathoms on it, which
extends a cable from the shore on the north-west side of the entrance,
one third of the distance between Sybille head and Freeman point.*
This bay remains frozen for about the same time as Castries bay. Its
shores are covered with wood fit for building purposes, such as the
larch, fir, and stone-pine.
DIRECTION'S. If approaching Barracouta harbour from the north-
ward, and having made Barren bluff, in lat. 49 18^' N., the three hills
over Beachy head will be seen if the weather is clear, and by bringing
the centre one to bear S. by W. it will lead to the entrance. At
3 miles N. by E. E. from Freeman point the shore should not be
approached within 2 cables, to avoid a rock on which the sea occasionally
breaks ; it lies about a cable off a point bare of trees, at 2 cables from
which the depth is 12 fathoms, and thence to Freeman point 13 to 15
fathoms. Pass the latter point at a convenient distance, and avoiding
Carr bank proceed into the harbour, where the best anchorage, with
the exception of Pallas bay, is on its south side to the S.S.W. of
Fortescue island.
Vessels bound into the harbour from the southward or south-east should
make the land near Beachy head, which may readily be distinguished by
some rocks above water, half a cable's length off its extremity. From
Beachy head, which may be passed at a convenient distance, Tronson
point, on the south side of the harbour entrance, bears N.JST.W. distant
about 5 miles. This point is low, rugged, and devoid of trees, and
should not be approached within 1^ cables. Between Tronson point and
Tullo island the shore is clear of danger. Give Tullo island a berth of
a cable's length, at which distance there are 12 or 13 fathoms water, and
then proceed to an anchorage.
CAUTION. Vessels approaching this harbour in foggy weather
should not shoal their water within 40 or 35 fathoms, unless well
* See Plaa of Barracouta Harbour, No. 2,508 ; scale, m = 3 inches.
cc 2
404 GULF OF TARTARY. [CHAP. xi.
assured of their position, and in all cases due allowance must be made
for currents, which generally set along the coast to the southward in
northerly winds, and to the northward in southerly winds. In strong
breezes they have been found to run as much as 25 and 30 miles a day ;
they are sometimes, however, extremely variable.
TIDES. In Barracouta harbour the time of high water, full and
change, is at lOh. Om., and the rise is 3 to 4 feet.
The COAST from Beachy head trends in a northerly direction to
Castries bay, and is steep-to, with 15 to 18 fathoms at 2 miles off shore ;
depths, however, of 25 and 30 fathoms have been obtained at a cable's
length off Cape Lesseps, in lat. 49 33' N. The coast assumes a bolder
aspect in proceeding northwards. From Beachy head to Barren bluff,
the land, backed by high mountains, forms two ranges when seen from
the offing ; one of these mountains, cone-shaped and covered with snow,
is visible 50 miles. The steep coast is undermined in some places by
the sea ; large masses of rock, which are detached from time to time, fall
down, and form a dangerous rocky shore. The coast-line is irregular,
but by keeping outside the line, which joins the promontories of Beachy
head and Barren bluff, all the intermediate points are 'cleared.
Barren bluff is a high perpendicular headland. Vessels will find shelter
under it during winds from N.N.E. to N.W., in 5 or 6 fathoms water,
with its extreme point bearing N.E.
Before approaching Cape Lesseps, there is a wide and low forest,
extending for miles westward, backed by a high range of mountains.
This cape is a bluff headland, bleak, and fugged, with many traces of
continual disintegration.
Cape Destitution, in 49 46' N., is bold, high land, having a bay on its
north side, which affords good shelter from S.E. to S.W., in 9 or 10
fathoms, with the extreme of the cape, E.S.E., distant about a mile.
Cape Dent, in 50 00' N., declines to the eastward, and has a bay on
its north side ; at half a cable from its extremity, is the Gulf rock, of
pinnacle shape, and about 20 feet high.
CASTRIES BAT. The entrance to this bay is between Closter-Camp,
or Quoin point, and Castries point, which bear North and South, and are
distant about 4 miles ; Quoin point, the south point of entrance, is in
lat. 51 28' N. Although the greater part of the bay is open to
easterly winds, which throw in a heavy sea, yet vessels, if their draught
will permit, will find shelter behind the islands in it, particularly on the
west side of Observatory island. The bay is covered with ice from the
middle of November or December to April, being open to navigation
for 7 or 8 months in the year. The isthmus which separates it from the
CHAP, xi.j CASTRIES BAY. - JONQUIERE BAY. 405
principal branch of the Amur is uot more than 40 miles across, and lake
Kyzi is only 15 miles distant.*
A dangerous rock upon which the sea occasionally breaks heavily, but
which does not show in smooth water, lies in the middle of the entrance
to this bay, with the Avesteru part of the peninsula (the east extreme of
which is Quoin point) in line with the bluff headland beyond, bearing
about South ; the north end of Observatory island, at the head of the bay,
bearing West, leads well to the northward of it. A flat rocky bank
carrying 1 L feet water, but with only 5 feet on its northern part, is said
to extend between Oyster and South islands.
The general nature of the bottom of this bay appears to be mud, but
from many circumstances this is supposed to be a mere superficial covering
to a rocky or otherwise treacherous bottom. The anchorage is exposed to
easterly winds, which cause a heavy swell to set in.
In making Castries bay from the southward two small high and barren
islets will be seen near the coast, about 16 miles southward of Quoin
point. In entering the bay and passing to the southward of Danger
rock, the reef which extends from the north end of Oyster island must be
guarded against, but that channel is in other respects clear.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, in Castries bay at lOh. 30m.,
and the rise is about 6 feet.
BAT is on the west coast of Saghaliu island, about 1^
miles to the north-east of Cape Otsisi, in lat. 50 54' N. Its position
may be recognized by three remarkable detached pinnacle rocks, about
50 feet high, off its south point. The coast to the southward is bold,
but becomes less so in the bay and to the northward as the high land
recedes. This bay should be looked upon only as a fine weather anchor-
age ; it affords shelter from N.E., round east, to South, but is exposed to
all other winds, and the holding ground is mostly bad ; there are some
good spots, however, for anchorage in 9 to 7 fathoms water. A small
river finds an outlet in the bay, and boats can pass over its bar when the
tide is in.f
Coal. A few huts of the natives will be seen on the south part of the
above river entrance, and between these and Pinnacle point are seams of
good surface coal, some of which, being close to the water's edge, can be
easily worked.
* See Plan of Castries Bay, scale, m 7 of an inch, on Chart of Kuril Islands,
No. 2,405.
f See Plan of Jonquiere Bay, scale, m 2 inches, on Chart of Kuril Islands,
No. 2,405.
406 GULP OF AMUR. LCHAP. n.
Supplies. Large quantities of fish were taken in Jonquiere bay bj
hauling the seine on the beach to the northward of the huts, and good
sized flat fish were caught with hook and line about a quarter of a mile
off shore, in 3 or 4 fathoms water. Wild fowl and white hares are
numerous.
The watering place is inconvenient. Drift wood is plentiful.
TIDES. The time of high water, full and change, in Jonquiere bay, is
at 10k. Om., and the rise is about 6 feet.
GULF AND KIVEB AMUR.
The GDXF of AMUR, or Saghalin, is 70 miles long, north and south,
and 25 miles in its greatest breadth. The waters of the river Amur,
which empty themselves into this vast basin with great rapidity, have
formed banks of sand and mud, which cover almost its whole surface,
barely leaving the shallow channels by which the stream flows on one side
to the Sea of Okhotsk and on the other to the Strait of Tartary ; this
renders the entrance of this great river difficult and at times dangerous.*
Immediately north of Cape Lazaref, at the south entrance of the gulf,
the channel from the Strait of Tartary divides into two branches. That
which goes to the N.N.W., narrow and slightly winding, is called the
South Fairway, and keeps close to the Tartary shore, passing the isles of
Chome and Hagemir ; it bends abruptly around Cape Pronge, and thence
holds a W.N.W. course to Nikolaevsk, which is 65 miles from Cape
Lazaref. The channel varies from three-quarters of a mile to 2 miles in
width ; the depths are generally small, but occasionally are as much as
14 and 19 fathoms. The least water is 2 fathoms, and a flat with this
depth extends for nearly 10 miles between Capes Koisakoi and Pronge,
and this may be considered the real bar of the river, and must be crossed
to enter it. Beyond this bar the water deepens, and 1 1 fathoms are found
abreast the town of Nikolaevsk, above which the river is said to be
navigable for 1,500 miles.
The N.N.E. branch or Saghalin channel is wider and deeper than the
other, the least depth being 18 feet at low water, according to the Russian
chart made between the years 1849 and 1854. It keeps along the
Saghalin shore at about 5 miles distant, for nearly 60 miles, until just
north of Cape Halezof, where it almost touches the coast ; and 20 miles
farther north, between Capes Golovachef and Menshikof, 16 miles apart,
it opens out into the Sea of Okhotsk.
* See Chart of the Strait of Tartary and the entrance of the Amur river. No. 2,650 :
scale, d = 14 inches.
CHAP. XL] RIVER AMUR. 407
The above chart also shows a narrow gut, dignified with the name of
North channel, leading close to Cape Tebakh, the north point of entrance
of the Amur, and then in a N.E. direction 30 miles to the Sea of
Okhotsk. The least water in it is 13 feet, until within one mile of the
sea, where apparently there is a bar or flat of 6 feet (probably a closer
examination would discover a deeper pass) ; but with a 6 feet rise of tide
in the Sea of Okhotsk, or with a northerly wind, in fine'weather, gun
boats or despatch vessels under 12 feet draught might, there is little
doubt, pass over it.
Tbe RIVER AMUR or Saghalin Ula is formed of the streams Shilka
and Argun, which unite in lat. 53 SO* N. on the frontiers of Russia and
China. The former of these consists of the Ingoda and Onon ; the latter
being the main stream which rises south-east of Lake Baikal, in the
mountain chain called Khing-khan Ula by the Chinese, and Yablonoi
Krebit by the Russians.
The river flows east as far as Nertchinsk, here it is said to be 600
yards wide, and very deep ; then north, then again east, when it receives
the Argun which comes from the south near Baksanova. The united
streams, under the name of Amur, continue to the east and south-east,
receiving from the south the affluents Songari and Usuri, and reaching
its southern limit in 47 48' N., whence it turns abruptly to the north-east
and east, falling into the Gulf of Amur between Capes Pronge and Tebakh,
which are 8 miles apart. The length of the Amur, including all its
windings, is about 2,500 miles ; it is navigable for large vessels as far as
Nertchinsk, 1,500 miles from its mouth, in the summer season ; in the
winter it is frozen over.
The fortress of Nikolaevsk is built on the left bank of the river, at 22
miles from the entrance. It is surrounded by a few houses, and defended
by batteries and strong advanced works. The channels leading from the
gulf to the anchorage abreast it are frequently changing, owing to the
great debris sent down by the strong current of the river, and with the
constant fogs, frequent squalls, and gales, render the approach both diffi-
cult and dangerous.
Owing to the vicinity of the Sea of Okhotsk, with its masses of ice, and
the easterly winds prevailing during spring, the seasons at Nikolaevsk are
much more inclement than higher up the Amur. Even at the commence-
ment of September continued rains set in. October brings snow and cold,
and at the end of the month or commencement of the next, the mouth of
the river is frozen over. November, and the first half of December, are
mostly clear ; the temperature is low, the minimum being 39 Fahrenheit.
At the latter pan of December, and during January, severe snow storms,
with westerly winds, render the communication between the different
408 GULF OF AMUR. [CHAI-. xi.
houses difficult, and even dangerous. The temperature during that time
rises often above freezing point. The river navigation does not open before
May, while snow and ice are to be found in the forests and more sheltered
bays as late as June.
DIRECTIONS. A vessel entering the Gulf of Amur from the Strait of
Tartary, should proceed with great caution, with a boat sounding on each
bow, and an anchor ready at a moment's notice.
A Russian steam squadron, under the command of Admiral Kusnetsof,
visited this gulf in September 1858, but they found that it could not be
navigated safely without being buoyed and beaconed, and also that many
alterations had taken place in the South Fairway channel leading to
Nikolaevsk since the survey of 1854. The squadron often grounded,
and were 13 days in getting through. Merchant vessels often remain
aground in it for weeks together, and frequently throw a portion of their
cargoes overboard to lighten.
The squadron in steering for the south entrance of the gulf, between
Capes Catherine and Liak, passed at the distance of half a mile from the
edge of the shoal, on the west side of the entrance, and which was found
to extend 6 miles to the southward from Glasenap island, and to break
heavily in easterly winds. After passing Cape Nevelskoi one of the
vessels grounded on a small bank (not marked on the chart) lying
N.E. by N. about 1\ miles from the cape ; it had 12 feet on it, and 6 and
7 fathoms close-to.
In proceeding towards the Amur, and endeavouring to cross the bar
between Capes Djaore and Pronge, some of the vessels of the squadron
grounded, there being not more than 13 feet over its shoalest part ; but
the water rising 2 feet with a northerly wind they were able to proceed
over it in safety. Whilst aground in the southern part of the channel
between Capes Nevelskoi and Muravief, the tide rose about 6 feet, and
the morning tides were higher than the evening ; the water remained
stationary at its highest level for an hour, and then commenced to fall
rapidly.
At Cape Lazaref the tide flowed twice in the 24 hours, the rise was
5 feet, and the ebb ran 3^ to 4 knots. Abreast of Chome island, the rise
was 4 feet, and the Avater remained at its highest level about fifty minutes.
From Cape Djaore to Cape Pronge, there appeared to be no regularity in
the tidal action, it being greatly influenced by the winds. It was high
water only once in 24 hours, and the tide rose one foot ^vith a southerly
and 3 feet with a northerly wind.
Duririf the few davs H.M. ships were off the northern entrance of the
O
Gulf of Amur in 1855-56, the greatest rise of tide observed was 5 feet.
The current from the Amur set to the N.N.E. over the banks, sometimes
at the r."te of 3 knots per hour.
CHAP. XI.] LAPEROUSE STRAIT. 409
LAPEROUSE STEAIT.
This strait is formed between Cape Notoro, the southern end of Sagha-
lin, and Cape Soya, the north extreme of Yezo. The soundings in it are
mostly 35 to 40 fathoms and upwards, decreasing to 25 and 20 fathoms
as the shores are neared ; but as these latter depths will be found in the
middle of the strait near Opasnost or Dangerous rock, and in other places,
the soundings in thick weather cannot always be trusted to ensure safety.*
Dangerous rock, lying S.E. by E. 10 miles from Cape Notoro, is well above
water, and may be seen 8 miles distant in clear weather ; other rocks, on
which the sea breaks, surround it for a mile.
There are heavy over-falls, giving the appearance of a reef, between
Cape Notoro and Dangerous rock, but deep water was found on passing
through. Neither this Cape nor Cape Nossyab should be closed without
a commanding breeze, on account of the tide race off them.
TOTOMOSXRX, or Monneron island, lying N.W. by W. ^ W. 32 miles
from Cape Notoro, is of moderate height, without the volcanic appearance
of Refunsiri or of Bisiri, the islands to the southward of it ; some rocks
lie off its eastern side.
Water. There is a spring on Totomosiri, from which whalers are in
the habit of watering, but with great difficulty and labour.
REFUNSIRI, lying to the southward of Totomosiri, on the south side
of the western entrance of Laperouse strait, is a high and irregular
shaped island, having an anchorage on its eastern side. Its western side
is bold, but the north-west end is faced with reefs and sunken rocks,
and some miles off it a long low rock just above water was seen by H.M.S.
Bittern in 1855 ; this part of the island should therefore be avoided-
The island is inhabited.
xtxsiRX is about 7 miles to the south-east of Refunsiri, and there is a
clear passage between them. This island has a magnificent volcanic cone 5
which forms a conspicuous landmark, and is visible in clear weather
from a distance of 70 or 80 miles. The cone (The Pic de Langle of
Laperouse) rises to an elevation of 4,500 feet, and terminates in a sharp
summit, which often peers out most usefully above the harassing fogs ;
it is generally covered with snow, and frequently presents a strikingly
beautiful appearance.
CAPE xarossvAB, the north-west point of Yezo island, is the abrupt but
rather sloping termination of a remarkable table land, and appears like an
* The description of Laperouse Strait, the Gulf of Tartary, and the Sea of Okhotsk
is chiefly from the Remark books of Officers of H.M. Ships, 1855-1857.
410 LAP^ROUSE STRAIT. [CHAP. xi.
island at a distance. Extending a mile to the northward from the cape
is a flat narrow tongue of land, only a few feet above the sea, having upon
it a few huts, and a fishing station, which are conspicuous objects before
the low land, on which they stand, rises to view 5 or 6 miles distant.
From the extreme point of this low land a shoal rocky spit, partly covered
with weed, extends off in a N.N.W. direction for upwards of a mile, with
but little water over it in places, and at its extremity a depth of 2^-
fathoms, which rapidly deepens to 6 and 7 fathoms. Heavy breakers
sometimes disclose this spit, but in smooth water they do not extend to
its outer end. No vessel should near it within the depth of 12 or 14
fathoms.
ANCHORAGE. There is an anchorage in a bay 6 or 7 miles to the
southward, on the west side of Cape Nossyab, with the cape bearing
N.N.E., south extreme of land S. by W. W., and the Pic de Langle
S.W. by W. l W., in 12 fathoms, the soundings decreasing gradually ; a
little farther north the ground is foul, in a less depth than 10 fathoms,
at three-quarters of a mile off shore. The shore abreast this anchorage
is low and swampy, covered with long rank grass and weeds, and backed
by higher ground terminating in Cape Nossyab.
CAPE SOYA, the north extreme of Yezo, may easily be recognized,
sometimes even in a fog, by a remarkable white rock lying off it to the
westward, and which appears to be surrounded with broken ground.
ROMANZOV BAT. Between Capes Nossyab and Soya, the coast forms
an extensive bay, in which the land, covered with rank verdure, slopes
towards the sea margin, and its formation in the south part or bottom leads
to the supposition of a large river being in that direction. Several huts
are distributed along the shores of this bay ; and within it, at about 5
miles from Cape Soya, is a large Japanese village or fishing station, having
near it, on an elevated position, an earthwork with embrasures, but no
guns were seen.
About 2 miles within the bay, on the Cape, Soya side, the water
.shoaled suddenly from 12^ to 8 and 2 fathoms on the outer edge of
foul ground, extending nearly 2 miles off shore ; a vessel, therefore,
intending to take shelter here from a south-east wind, or wait the clear-
ance of fog, should be careful to keep 3 or 4 miles off shore, where there
is good anchorage for the purpose in 17 or 18 fathoms.
CAPE NOTORO or Crillon, the south extremity of Saghalin island, is
low, sloping gradually towards the point, and has a hollow behind it, so
that, at a distance of 10 or 12 miles, it appears to be detached, and
CHAP. XL] CAPE SOYA. ANIWA BAY. 411
makes like an island. A reef of straggling rocks extends off it a short
distance.
On the western side and 3 miles to the northward of this cape and
near a Japanese fishing station, is an extensive patch of dangerous rocks,
covered at high water ; they lie about a mile off shore, with irregular
soundings of 3 fathoms within them, and 7 fathoms near their outside.
No vessel should approach these rocks in less than 12 or 13 fathoms
water, as then the ground is broken and foul.
WATER. On the north-west side, and 6 or 7 miles from Cape Notoro,
is an excellent watering place, used by H.M. squadron in 1855, at a
running stream over a bed of sand and gravel into the sea. Anchorage
off it should be taken in from 10 to 9 fathoms, sand ; the soundings
decrease gradually towards the shore.
CAPS SXRETOKO, or Aniwa Vries, the south-east extreme of Sag-
halin, is a remarkable promontory, the more so from a chain of high
mountains near it, stretching away to the northward, between which and
the cape is a hollow that gives it the appearance of a saddle. The head-
land itself is a steep abrupt mass of rocks, quite barren, and having a
deep inlet at its point.
AirrwA BAT is an extensive bight, about 45 miles deep, occupying
the southern end of Saghalin between Capes Notoro and Siretoko, which
bear W. -^ S. and E. ^ N. of each other, and are distant 65 miles. At its
head is Salmon cove, where there is a Japanese settlement, composed of a
few houses built of wood, also the huts of the natives, which are of the
most wretched description ; the coast here is moderately high and level,
and when first seen has an appearance of chalk cliffs, which continues
for about 12 miles to the south-east, when it becomes higher, irregular,
and of a dark colour.
The point to the southward of Salmon cove runs out shoal, and, until
better known, should not be approached within 2 miles. To the north-
ward of the north point, seen from the anchorage off the village, a shoal
flat fronts a low plain covered with trees, and farther back the land rises
in an undulating form to high hills. About midway between Capes
Notoro and Siretoko the depth is 58 fathoms, and the soundings decrease
gradually to the anchorage. Aniwa bay is open to the southward, but
the holding ground is good.
supplies. Water is plentiful in Aniwa bay, but it is of inferior
quality, and difficult to be procured. Excellent fire-wood, in any quan-
tity, can be obtained from the authorities.
412 EAST COAST OF SAGHAUN. [CHAP. xi.
Fish are abundant ; a small kind of salmon weighing about 31bs. is
taken in large numbers during a few weeks in June and July ; herrings
are earlier in season. Supplies of any other description are not to be
obtained.
TIDES. and CURRENTS. In and about Laperouse strait the tides
are very irregular, and they are probably much influenced by prevailing
winds. They are felt mostly in shore, particularly round Capes Notoro
and Nossyab, where at times they become perfect races. It is high water
near these capes, full and change, between lOh. and llh., and the rise is
about 6 feet. The flood stream sets to the northward along the west
coasts of Yezo and Saghalin, and to the eastward through Laperouse
strait ; the ebb sets' in the contrary direction.
The currents in the strait can neither be depended on in strength
nor direction ; near the shore they are* probably regulated by and unite
Avith the tides, but in the middle of the strait they will be found
setting generally to the E.S.E. or S.E., sometimes at the rate of 2 or 3
knots per hour.
EAST AND NORTH-WEST COASTS OF SAGHALIN.
Saghalin island, Tarakai of the natives, and Krafto of the Japanese,
extends nearly north and south along the coast of Manchuria or Tartary,
for a length of 510 miles, by a width varying from 25 to 100 miles, and
may have an area of 30,000 square miles. Its northern portion lies
opposite the entrance of the Amur, while its southern extremes, Capes
Aniwa and Crillon, are separated from the island of Yezo by Laperouse
strait.
The island is mountainous ; two ranges extend respectively N.W. and
N.E. from its southern extremes, and meet in Bernizet peak in 47 33' N.
Its western face is steep, the eastern low and sandy. The middle district
of the island is flat and swampy, but to the north hilly and fertile. It is
well wooded throughout, and large quantities of timber are exported to
Japan for building purposes.
There is coal in several parts of this island, and around Jonquiere bay
it rises to the surface, and is of fair quality. Whales are found on the
east and south coasts, salmon and herrings abound, and in the deep bay of
Aniwa on the south, into which two large streams fall, the Japanese have
established an extensive salmon fishery. Water is abundant at all parts,
and drift wood for fuel is found in large quantities along the western
coast. The northern portion of the island is inhabited by Ghiliaks, and
the southern by Ainos, aborigines of Yezo, a race of small stature. Jon-
CHAP. XL] CAPE LOWENHORN. PATIENCE BAY. 413
quiere bay on the west coast of Saghalin, and Aniwa bay on the south
coast, are described in pages 405. 411.
CAPE X-OWENHORN-, in lat. 46 23' N., long. 143 40' E., is a steep
projecting rock, easily to be distinguished from the rest of this coast by its
yellow colour. North of it the coast assumes rather a westerly direction,
and consists of a chain of large lofty mountains, covered with snow in
May.
Cape Tonin, the next headland to the northward, is of moderate height,
and entirely overgrown with fir trees. A chain of rocks stretches to the
northward from it; southward of the cape the bottom is rocky, with
small stones ; to the northward it is entirely of clay.
BAY is a large bight in the coast to the westward of
Cape Tonin, in which plenty of water was procured and abundance of
firewood. On the shores of the bay several dwelling houses were seen by
Krusenstern, in 1805, but most of them were empty. The natives
appeared to be superior to those in Aniwa bay.
CAPE SEMTIAVIN is a high point of land in lat. 47 16V N. To the
northward of it the coast is low, and trends suddenly to the westward ;
to the southward are lofty mountains covered with snow in May.
Bernizet peak of Laperouse, is probably the same as Mount Spenberg
of the Dutch. It is a lofty, rounded mountain, in 47 33' N., 142 20' E.,
near the north-west end of a lofty chain of mountains running through the
valley from N.W. to N.E.
CAPE DAZiRYMPXiE. iii lat. 48 21' N., is formed by a high mountain
rising close to the beach, in a north and south direction, and is the more
easily known from being altogether isolated, except that to the northward,
12 or 15 miles, is another, very unlike this, apparently consisting of
four separate mountains ; the coast between is, with the exception of
a peak of moderate hight, quite low.
From Cape Dalrymple, the coast trends in a S. by \V. direction, and is
bounded by lofty mountains, divided by deep valleys, the shore being
steep and rocky. In several places are inlets between the rocks, which
might afford anchorage ; one in lat. 48 10', looked more promising than
the rest.
PATIENCE BAY. Cape Soimonof, in lat. 48 52^' N., is the western
point of entrance to Patience bay, which is limited to the eastward by
Cape Patience. The former cape is a high promontory, projecting to
the eastward, and was taken for an island when it bore North. The
north coast of the bay is mountainous, and the beach craggy. Far inland
414 EAST COAST OF SAQHALIN. [CHAP. xi.
are lofty snow-topped mountains, except in one part, where an even
country stretches away to the northward as far as* the eye can reach. In
the north-west angle of the bay is the mouth of the river Neva.
Cape Patience, the most prominent and the easternmost cape of Saghalin,
is a low promontory, formed by a double hill, terminating abruptly. From
this a flat tongue of land projects some distance to the southward ; on the
north side of the cape, the land is likewise low, the flat hill near Flat bay
being the first high land in that direction. By this hill, Cape Patience,
(which, owing to its little elevation, is not easily perceived,) may soon be
recognized. The cape is surrounded by a rocky shoal, extending a con-
siderable distance from the land.
BOBBEXT ISLAND, the centre of which bears about S.W. S., 22
miles from Cape Patience, is surrounded by a dangerous reef about 35
miles in circumference. Krusenstern examined this reef in 1805. The
waves broke violently over it, and to the northward there appeared, as
far as the eye could reach, a large field of ice, under which, in all pro-
bability, the reef continued. The channel between the cape and the reef
was not examined.
FLAT BAR, in lat. 49 5' N., is surrounded on all sides by a low
country. It is a deep opening, in which, even from the mast head, no
land could be descried. From this circumstance it was thought by
Krusenstern, to be the mouth of a large river.
BELLINGSHAUSEN, at 30 miles to the northward of Flat bay,
has at 7 miles to the S.S.W. of it, a point which was thought to offer a
good harbour. The shore is abrupt, and entirely white. Between two
hills that project considerably, the southernmost apparently insulated,
is this apparent harbour, and perhaps a small river ; it was, however,
unexplored. The country about it is regular in appearance.
CAPE R.IIVINIX, at 40 miles farther to the northward, has at the back
of it, some miles inland, a high flat hill, named Mount Tiara, remarkable
for having three points on its summit.
CAPE RATMAWOF, in lat. 50 48' N., terminates in a flat neck of land,
stretching a considerable distance into the sea. The coast hereabouts is
invariably craggy, and of a yellow colour.
CAPE DELISLE de la c&OYERE, in lat. 51 0' 30" N., forms the
boundary of the mountainous part of Saghalin. for to the northward of it
there is neither high land nor a single mountain, the shore everywhere
consisting of sand, of a most dangerous uniformity. This cape is connected
CHAP, xi.] ROBBEN ISLAND, CAPE LOWENSTERN. 415
with Cape Ratraanof by a flat sandy beach, with mountains in the back
ground between them.
/
DOWNS POINT, in lat. 51 53' N., is rendered remarkable by a round
hill. It is not the boundary of the sand coast, for this continues to the
northward of the same features as that to the southward, only that behind
'this point there is a bay of considerable depth.
To the northward of Downs point is a chain of five hills, having the
appearance of islands in this extended plain. The whole coast here, like
that to the southward, is scarcely raised above the water's edge ; it is
entirely of sand, and a little way inland is covered with a seemingly
impenetrable forest of low shrubs.
SHOAII POINT (Cape Otmeloi), in lat. 52 32^' N., so named from
its vicinity to the only dangerous shoal Krusenstern met with off this
coast, may be easily known by a hill of tolerable height, which on this
flat coast almost merits the name of a mountain, and forms a remarkable
object.
This shoal might have proved dangerous if great attention had not been
paid to the soundings, the depth falling suddenly from 8 to 4^ fathoms.
It is in lat. 52 30' N., long. 143 29' E., and extends, probably, some
miles north and south at a distance of 10 miles off shore. The coast, the
direction of which from Powns point is North, projects to the eastward
nearly on the parallel of this shoal.
CAPE VIRST is in lat. 52 57^' N. A long way inland there are
several considerable high lands, the coast being, as far as the eye can
reach, composed of flat sand.
CAPS XLOXATCHEFF is in lat. 53 46' N., and near it appeared to
be the mouth of a considerable river, as the land appeared unconnected.
The land about it is flat, gradually increasing in height, the shores being
flat and sandy.
CAPE Z.OWENSTEXW, named after Krusenstern's third lieutenant, in
54 3' N., is a large promontory, from which the coast takes a more
westerly direction. To the southward of this cape, the land, which has
been hitherto flat and sandy, is high and mountainous, with narrow
spaces between the hills, the shore very steep, and in several places
consisting of rocks of a chalk like appearance. In front of the cape there
is a large rock.
The land between this cape and Cape Elizabeth presents a lofty, dreary,
and barren appearance ; no traces of vegetation are apparent, and the
whole coast is iron-bound, consisting of one mass of black granite rock,
416 NORTH AND NORTH-WEST COASTS OF SAGHALIN. [CHAP. xi.
with here and there a white spot ; the depth at 2 miles off shore was 20
fathoms, and at 3 miles, 30 fathoms, rocky bottom. There are four other
promontories between these headlands.
CAPE ELIZABETH, the north extreme of Saghalin, is a high mass
of rock, forming the extremity of an uninterrupted chain of mountains.
It is rendered remarkable from a number of high pointed hills, or rather
naked rocks, upon Avhich neither tree nor verdure of any kind is percep-
tible. It descends gradually to the sea, and at the brink of the precipice
is a pinnacle or small peak. From the northward it makes in two rugged
points, the western one being divided into peaks. Seen from the west it
bears an extraordinary appearance to Cape Lopatka, the south end of
Kamchatka, except that it is higher. On the west side of the cape a
point projects, and between them there is a small bay.
CAPE IMC ARIA, about 18 miles to the W.S.W. of Cape Elizabeth, is
lower than the latter cape, and consists of a chain of hills all nearly of
the same elevation. It slopes gently down to the sea, and terminates in
a steep precipice, from whence a dangerous reef appears to project a
considerable distance to the north-east.
TIDES. It is high water, full and change, at Cape Maria, at 2h. ; the
rise is about 5 feet.
NORTH BAT. Between Capes Elizabeth and Maria is a large bay of
considerable depth, at the head of which, at the foot of a mountain, is a
village in a beautiful valley. The locality is fertile, and the mountains
covered with forests of fir trees.
This bay, although open, is said to be safe in the summer when north
winds are rare. At 1^ miles from the shore the depth is 9 fathoms, fine
sand, decreasing at half a cable gradually to 3 fathoms over excellent
anchoring ground.
The north-west coast of Saghalin is infinitely preferable to the south-
west. Between the mountains, which are entirely evergrown with the
thickest forests, are valleys which appear capable of cultivation. The
shores are broken, and almost everywhere of a yellow colour. The con-
fines of the high and low lands are precisely in the same parallel as on
the opposite shore ; and beyond the limits, to the S.S.W., as far as the
eye could reach, nothing could be seen but the low sandy shore, with
here and there a few insulated but picturesque sand hills.
XQTADESHDA BAT, named after Krusenstern's ship, is about 10 miles
to the south-east of Cape Maria. A plentiful supply of wood and
water may be easily procured here, but the bay being open, the bottom
CHAP, xi.] SEA OF OKHOTSK.
rocky, and consequently not a safe anchorage, will preclude iit-, ever being
much visited.
OBMAN BAY, at 44 miles to the southward of Cape Maria, has barely
sufficient water at its entrance for boats.
SEA OF OKHOTSK.
The Sea of Okhotsk, surrounded as it is on all its northern and western
sides by the continent, and to the south-east by the Kuril islands, may be
considered as completely land-locked. A large portion of its shores is
comparatively unknown, for with the exception of its single important
port, from which it derives its name, we have no accurate description of
its details.*
Whaling vessels frequent this sea from the beginning of July to the
beginning of October, few, if any, being in it by the 10th October. The
shores are covered with ice from November to April, but the main expanse
continues open throughout the year, and being genei-ally deep without
any apparent danger, its navigation is safe, notwithstanding the fogs and
storms with which it is often visited.
The western coast of Kamchatka i.s uniformly low and sandy to the
distance of about 25 to 30 miles inland, when the mountains commence ;
it produces only willow, alder, and mountain ash, with some scattered
patches of stunted trees. The soundings are shallow for a considerable
distance off shore ; nor is there at the entrance into any of the rivers
more than 6 feet at low water, with a considerable surf breaking on
the sandy beach. Those vessels that navigate this coast endeavour not
to lose sight of it, and judge of their distance from the land in foggy
weather by the soundings, allowing a fathom for a mile.
SALUTATION BAY. Near Cape Nagiba, at the north entrance of the
Gulf of Amur, is a bay of shallow water, where vessels, without entering
the gulf, may discharge their cargoes, to be sent by boats or by land to
Nikolaevsk on the Amur. It is known as Salutation bay to whalers,
who frequent it for fresh supplies ; large vessels must, of necessity, lie
outside.
SHANTARSKI ISLANDS. This group lies off the eastern coast of the
Sea of Okhotsk, and although the largest island is 35 miles long, east
and west, and about the same distance broad, yet it does not appear to
afford any port or shelter ; but its south-west point projects to the S.W.
so as to form a bay on the eastern side. Between this point and the nearest
* See Chart of Sea of Okhotsk, No. 2,388 5 scale, d = 2 inches.
[C.] D D
418 SEA OF OKHOTSK. [CHAP. xi.
point of the continent 14 miles distant to the south-west, are two islets
surrounded by rocks and reefs. Soundings of 30 to 40 fathoms, stones,
will be found at 8 to 10 miles to the eastward of the group. The tides
are regular in strength, running from 1^- to 2 knots an hour.
To the southward of the south points of Great Shantar island are
some small islands which have not been examined. At the distance of 6
miles from its west side is Feklistoff island, 20 miles in extent, N.E. and
S.W., and 10 miles wide, but it has no port nor shelter.
ST. JOKTA ISLAND, in lat. 56 2 5^' N., long. 143 15f E. is merely
a bare rock about 2 miles in circumference, and 1,200 feet high. It is
surrounded on all sides, except the west, by detached rocks, against which
the waves beat with great violence, and which probably extend a con-
siderable distance under water. With the island bearing North, distant
12 miles, Krusenstern had 15 fathoms water, but when it bore West
about 10 miles, no bottom with 120 fathoms.
PORT AIAN. The coast in the neighbourhood of Port Aian, on the
western Coast of the Sea of Okhotsk, is high and bold, and at .') miles in
the offing the soundings are 35 and 40 fathoms, sand.*
This port may be recognized from the southward by Cape Vueshni or
Outer Cape, a high barren promontory with several craggy peaks upon
it, at a mile to the eastward of the eastern point of entrance of the port.
The inner harbour, affording good shelter for small vessels, is from one
quarter to half a mile wide, and three-quarters of a mile deep, and the
soundings in it vary from 2 to 4 fathoms, muddy bottom.
The outer harbour is exposed to S.W. and southerly winds, which send
in a heavy sea ; it has depths of 8 to 12 fathoms over good holding
ground. On the west side of the entrance there is ( a reef of rocks with 4
fathoms close-to, barely covered at high water ; the eastern shore is steep,
and may be closely approached.
The climate here is abominable, and fogs are uninterrupted ; the ice
breaks up in June, and snow docs not always disappear before August.
The port is frozen over in November.
Supplies are scarce in Port Aiau and difficult to be obtained. To
the southAvard of the entrance is a sandy bay in which the soundings
appear to be regular, and where water may be conveniently procured.
Wild rhubarb grows close to the sea in most parts of the harbour,
and is of great service as an anti-scorbutic. Scurvy is common and fatal
among the inhabitants.
* See Plan of Port Aian on Chart of Sea of Okhotsk.
(HAP. xi. ] POUT AiA.N. OKHOTSK HARBOUR. 419
DIRECTIONS. Vessels approaching Port Aian should make the land
to the southward of Cape Vncslini, which is remarkably prominent; from
that direction only can the entrance be seen, and with northerly winds
the fog frequently lifts from 2 or 3 miles off shore to leeward of that
headland, when it remains thick elsewhere. The high land of the penin-
sula should be avoided, on account of the calm it occasion;-. In the event
of falling in with the laud to the northward of the cape, Mahninsk island,
if seen, will guide to the harbour ; but to judge from the appearance of
the coast in that direction, as seen from the heights of Aian, it is not
to be made bold with. The tides at this port have not been as yet
correctly ascertained, but their rise appears to be about 12 feet. A
current sets strong to the eastward, out of the harbour.
OKHOTSK HARBOUR, on the north-west side of this sea, is its prin-
cipal port, but the shallowncss of the water a long distance from its
entrance, and the violence and ci'oss set of the tides at the harbour's
mouth, preclude the possibility of its being easily accessible, except for
vessels of small draught. The mouth of the Okhota has only 9 feet water,
and is only accessible from June to September, being blocked up with
snow and ice the remainder of the year.
The town stands on a narrow tongue of Ian. I at the mouths of the rivers
Okhota and Kuktiii. It possesses a shipbuilder's yard, an hospital, and
large storehouses. The population in 1842 amounted to 800. Not a tree,
and hardly even a blade of grass, is to be seea within miles of the town,
and a more dreary scene can scarcely be conceived. Summer consists of
three months of damp and chilly weather, succeeded by nine months of
dreary winter, as raw as it is intense. The principal food of the inhabi-
tants is fish, which is also the staple food of the cattle and poultry. The
Sea of Okhotsk yields as many as fourteen varieties of* salmon alone.
Scurvy, in particular, rages here every winter.
SURFACE CURRENTS, Near Cape Elizabeth, and on approaching
the Gulf of Amur, heavy overfalls and ripples occur, which appear to be
produced by shallow surface currents, and they often render a vessel quite
unmanageable ; on some occasions, in a steady o-knot breeze, vessels have
been for hours with their head in the wrong direction, unable to answer
the helm or trim of sails. A strong surface current here may naturally
be expected, as the immense body of water from the Amur, meeting with
the obstruction caused by Saghalin island, effects its escape by the largest
outlet, rushing over the shallow banks at the mouth of the river, and con-
tinuing its course, following the line of coast round Cape Elizabeth, causes.
D D 2
420 SEA OF OKHOTSK. [<.n\r. xi.
especially with East and S.E. winds-, a dangerous race, extending off shore
3 or 4 miles, and setting strong to the southward along the eastern coast
of Saghalin, where, for some distance, the sea is discoloured by it.
CAUTION. It would be prudent not to approach Capes Elizabeth
and Maria within 20 miles, to avoid the current (vessels are occasionally
swept helplessly round North bay, between these capes, towards Cape
Elizabeth), and the winds are generally light and variable in shore when
strong in the offing ; by standing over to the Tartary coast the current is
less, soundings are regular, and depth of water moderate, affording sale
anchorage in case of calm or fog.
Care must also be observed in approaching the coasts of Saghaliu and
the shores of the Sea of Okhotsk, their longitude in connexion with that
of parts better ascertained, being most probably erroneous.
The navigation to the northward of the Gulf of Amur during the
summer months in unsurveyed waters where strong currents exist and
thick fogs are so universal, is less dangerous than Avould at first appear,
anchorage being commonly found when near the land, for a vessel to
await the clearance of fog to ascertain her position.
WINDS. The prevailing winds in this sea during June, July, and
August, may be considered south-easterly and moderate, accompanied
with smooth water ; in the beginning or middle of September, southerly
gales are said to be experienced, but that month has, in other respects,
finer weather than August.
FOGS are nearly constant in the Sea of Okhotsk ; they are most dense
in S.E. and easterly winds, but generally disperse with S.W. winds.
The open season is of less duration in the neighbourhood of the Shan-
tarski islands than at Port Aian ; the ice about the former in July
preventing an approach within some miles.
CURRENTS. The direction of the currents in this sea is uncertain ;
they are found to increase in strength as the laud is approached.
TIDES.
421
TIDK TABLE for the COASTS
lying ISLANDS ; the SEA
OKHOTSK.
of CHINA, KOREA, and TARTARY, and off-
of JAPAX, GI.-LF of TARTAR Y, and SEA of
Rise.
Rise.
High
High
Water
Water
Place.
Full
ft
Place.
Full
and
3
'
and
03
Change, 'g
I
Change
E
i
OB
fc
00
li. m. ft.
ft.
h. in.
ft.
ft.
River Min, Temple Point -
10 45
19
14
East Coast of China. Losing Island -
12
Canton River, entrance
10
8
Cliangchi Island
9 30
17
Broadway River, entrance -
11
71
Spider Island
10
17
Typa anchorage
10
7
Lishan Bay . -
10 15
1C
Macao - - - -
10 ii
0}
Xam-quan Harbour -
10
17
Hong Kong Road
10 15
.41
Xamki Islands
8 80
17
Lintin Island, Canton River
12
7i
Pih-ki-shan Islands -
8 30
17
Fan-si-ak Channel, do. -
Chuen-pee Point, do. -
1
2
n
71
21
Fong-whang group, Bullock ")
Harbour. $
8 30
17
Whampoa Docks
1 8
7*
Wan-elm River, entrance -
9
15*
Canton ....
2 40
5*
city-
9 30
15*
Xiuepin Group
10
5
Chin-ki Island
9 20
13
Tide Cove, Mirs Bay -
10
6i
Tai-chu Islands
9
14
Tuni-ang Island, Bias Bay -
3
St. George Island, Sau-mun')
Bay. $
10 20
15
T<anz-ehau Island, do.
8 30
Kwesan Islands
9 30
14
Hong-hai Bay ...
10
Ximrod Sound
10 30
20
Kiii-siang Point, Hie-che-")
chin Bay. $
7
6|
$Vemon Channel (Chusan")
Archipelago). j
9 40
11
Cupchi Point -
8
61
Ting-hai Harbour -
11
12
Hai-mun Bay -
9
6*
Pu-tu Island -
8 15
12
Cape of Good Hope -
9
63
Lansew Bay -
10
13
Clipper Road, Xamoa Island
11 15
7
Volcano Island
11 30
15
Chanan Bay -
11
6*
East Saddle Island -
11
14
Tougsang Harbour -
11 30
12
Chimney Island, Rees Pass -
11 30
U
Yung River, Chin-hai
11 20
12*
Amoy, inner Harbour
12
16
Xing-po fu
1
9
Hu-i-tau Bay -
12 15
16
Hang-chu Bay, Seshan")
Islands. }
11 45
14
Chimmo Bay - - -
10 20
1G
Fog Islands
11 15
17
Chinchu Harbour
12 25
17
Chapu Road
12
25
Meichen Sound
12 30
17
Gntzlaff Island
11 30
15
MakungHarbour(Pescadores)
10 30
9*
7
Yang-tse Kiang, entrance -
12
15
10
White Dog Islands -
9
13
Wu-snng River, entrance -
1 30
15
10
422 TIDES.
Tule Table for the Coasts of China, Korea, and Tartary. &c. cont.
S.E. Coast of Kamchatka.
Rise.
Rise.
High
High
Water
Water
Place.
Full
'4
Place.
Full
Si
and
&
and
c
a.
Change.
I
1
Change.
'E
it
;
m
*
02
X
h. m.
ft.
ft.
h. m.
ft.
Shanghai ...
1 40
10
7
Bon in Inlands.
Yellow Sea, Wei-hai-wei *)
Harbour. J
30
Lung-mun 1
Harbour, j
10
7
Peel Island, Port Lloyd
C 8
3
Gulf of Pe-chili, Che-fau"/
Harbour. j
10
8
Hillsborough Island, New")
Port, j
11 32
Si
Pel Ho entrance -
10 45
7
Gulf of Liau-tung, Hulu")
2QA
q
Japan Islands.
Shan Bay.
oU
9
., Tai-cho and Yang "
Rivers.entrance. j
15
G
Kiusiu Island, Nagasaki Bay
C 28
or
Lau-mu River
1 30
5
Nipon Island, Simoda"(
."> U
r3
Harbour. J
**
Clung River
1 20
0}
' Peh-tang River -
10
0)
YedoBay .
G
G
Yezo Island, Hakodadi ~>
West Coast of Korea, }
Chodo Island. $
fl 20
111
Harbour. j
."
Marjoribanks V
Harbour. )
3 30
29
10
,. Enderino Har- >
bour. )
B 30
G
Basil Bay
4 15
17i
Ko-Kun-to group, ^
Camp Islet. j
2 25
20
Japan Sea.
South Coast of Korea, Port >
Hamilton. j
8 30
11
East Coast of Korea, Cho-^
san Harbour. j
7 45
7
5
Port Lazaref
r. -20
21
Saahi and Salintang Channels.
Coast of Tartary, Napolean )
f) Od
.H
Road. )
OU
'- -
Babuyan Islands, Port San } ,,
a
Port Michael Sf-y- >
mour Ji
r, :;n
5
Pio Quinto. j
St. Vladimer Bay -
1
2
Laperouse Strait
10 30
G
Formosa Island.
Port Kok-si-kon
11 30
3
Tam-sui Harbour
11 45
7 to 12
Potropaulski Harbour
3 30
CJI
Ke-lunsr Harbour
10 30
3
Gulf of Tartar}/.
Lu-dm or Liti-ftiu Inlands.
Coast of Tartary, Barra 7
cout a Harbour. J
10
Napha-luang Road -
C 30 ' GJ
Castries Bay
10 30
C
Oho Sima, Vincennes Bay -
.7 30
si
Sakhalin Island, Jonquii-re )
Bay. f
10
6
Mariana or Ladrones Inlands.
Sea of Okhotsk.
Spvpan Island, Mnairionnp")
Bay. J
C 45
H
Sakhalin Island, Cape Maria
12 0| 5|
TABLE OF POSITIONS.
423
TABLE OE POSITIONS. 1
COASTS OF CHINA, KOREA, AND TARTARY, AND OFF-LYING ISLANDS;
AND IN THE SEA OF JAPAN, GULF OF TARTARY, AND SEA OF
OKHOTSK.
Place.
Particular Spot.
Latitude,
North.
Longitude,
Eas!.
Authorities.
CHINA, EAST COAST.
O ' a
O ' "
Hong Kong
Point Albert
22 16 27
114 10 48
Belcher, 1841.
Raleigh rock
- - -
22 2
113 47
Bate, 1847.
Ninepin rock
- _
22 15 45
114 22 7
Collinson, 1845.
Single island
East summit
22 24 6
114 39 12
, t
Tuni-ang island
Summit ....
22 27 G
114 36 45
Mendoza island -
- - -
22 30 42
114 50
Pedro Blanco rock -
22 18 30
115 6 54
Pauk Piah rock -
>
22 32 54
115 1
Chi no peak
-
22 44 24
115 46 50
Cupchi point
Hill on it
22 48 7
116 4 26
Breaker point -
...
22 56
116 27 45
Cape of Good Hope -
...
23 14
116 47
Brothers islets -
South-east islet
23 32 30
117 42
Tongsang harbour -
Fall peak ...
23 47 15
117 36 48
Chapel island
Summit ...
24 10 18
118 13 30
Amoy island
Citadel -
24 28
118 4
Dodd island
Summit -
24 26 16
US 29 4
Chin-chu harbour
Pisai island - - -
24 49 13
118 41
Pyramid point -
.
24 52 12
118 58
Sorrel rock
-
25 2 18
119 10 36
Ockseu islands -
Western island
24 59
119 27 3O
Lam-yit island -
High Cone peak -
25 12
119 35
Hungwha channel
Sentry island
25 16 30
119 45
Hai-tan island -
Kiangshan peak -
25 36 18
119 50 42
Turnabout island
Summit ...
25 26
119 58 42
Pescadores islands,
Observatory point, the
23 32 54
119 30 12
Makung harbour.
second po'int on north
side of harbour.
River Min -
Temple point
26 8 2G
119 37 42
Richard 1854.
Changchi island
Highest peak
26 14
120 1 42
Collinso , 1845.
Alligator island
Summit -
26 9
120 26
Tung-ying island
Peak -
26 23 12
120 31
Cony island
Summit -
26 30
120 10
Double Peak island -
Highest peak
26 36 6
120 11 12
Pih-seang islands
Town island -
26 42 30
12O 22 42
Dangerous rock
Tae islands
Summit
Eastermost -
26 53
26 59 12
120 34 18
120 43 48
* The positions by Belcher, Collinson, Bate, Gordon, Richards, and Ward, and by H.M.
ships, depend upon Point Albert, on the north shore of Hong Kong, being 114 10' 48" East
from Greenwich ; those by Basil Hall depend upon the fort at the mouth of the Pei ho being
117 49' East.
424
TABLE OF POSITIONS,
Place.
Particular Spot.
Latitude,
North.
Longitude,
East.
Authorities.
CHINA, EAST COAST cow*.
I ' "
O ' a
Ping-fong island
Summit - - - 1 27 9 42
120 32 42
Collinson, 1845.
Pih-quan peak -
... 27 18 48
120 28 45
,,
Narn-quam harbour -
Bate island - - - 27 9 20
120 25 50
Port Jsamki
Eastern Horn - - 27 2G 18
121 6 30
,,
Pih-ki-shan island
Summit - - 27 37 18
121 12 18
,,
Fung-whang group -
Coin island - - - 27 50
121 15
V
Pe-shan island -
Summit -
28 5 30
121 31 48
,,
Soudan islet - -
28 15 54
121 44 36
>
Chikhok island - - - - 28 22 24
121 44 12
,,
Tai-chau group - - Hea-chu islet
23 23 18
121 55 12
,,
Chuh-seu island - Summit ...
28 40 30
121 47 24
,,
Tungchuh island - i
28 42 12
121 55 6
,,
Hieshan island - - Southernmost
28 50 48
122 14 24
,,
Montagu island - j North-east point -
29 10 30
122 5
Kweshan islands - Patahecock -
29 21 54
122 13 42
,,
Mouse rock - - Summit - - . -
29 32 42
122 13 36
,,
Buffaloes Nose island- High part -
29 36 12
122 1 24
,,
Nimrod sound ^
Middle island
29 34 20
121 43 15
Chusan Archipelago :
Tongting islet
Chukea island
Summit -
Peak - --.
29 51 42
29 54
122 35 48
122 25 18
)
Just-in-the-way islet
Summit -
29 57 42
121 54 12
Chusan island
Observation spot, Ting- '30 25
122 5 18
hai harbour.
Video island -
Summit -
30 8
122 46
_
Barren isles -
Centre -
30 43
123 7 14
,,
Saddle group -
North island -
30 50
122 41
,,
Cairnsmore rock -
- .
30 42 10
122 34 40
Ward, 1858.
Chapu -
Battery -
30 36
121 3
Collinson, 1845.
Yung river
Chin-hai citadel -
29 57 8
121 43 6
Yang-tse-kiang -
Shaweishan islet -
31 25 12
122 14
Wusung
Fort A. at entrance
31 23 30
121 30 11
Ward, 1853.
river.
Shanghai
British Consul's flag staff
31 14 42
121 28 55
Hankau city - -
30 32 51
114 19 55
YELLOW SEA.
Whang-ho or Yellow Entrance ...
34 2 , 119 51
Ilorsburgh.
river.
Staunton island -
Summit ...
36 47
122 16
Shan Tung promontory Extreme ...
37 25
122 45 Ross.
Wei-hai-wei harbour - East end of Observatory
37 30 19
122 7
Ward and Bul-
islet.
lock, 1860.
Lung-mun harbour - ; Ta-shan -
37 27 20 ! 121 32 56
Chi-fau or Yen-tai Fort in Village bay
37 35 56 ! 121 22 33
>
harbour.
Miau-tau group Peak of Northern island
38 23 37 120 52
,, - South-west extreme of
37 56 i 120 37 12
Miau-tau island.
Ta-lien-hwan bay - i Observation spot on
38 52 38
121 49 30
isthmus on south San-
shan island.
Encounter rock -
-
38 33 50
121 37
Blonde island -
-
39 2
122 49
H. M.S. Pyludes,
1840.
Dangerous shoal
-
38 56
124 37
>
Pei ho
GULF OF PE-CHILI.
South T-.ku fort -
3? 59 52 ; 117 39 19 [ Ward and Bul-
lock, 1860.
TATiLE OP POSITIONS.
425
Place.
Particular Spot.
Latitude,
N orth.
Longitude,
East.
Authorities.
WEST AND SOUTH COASTS OF KOREA.
/ "
' /'
Chodo island
South point -
38 27
124 34 40
French frigate
Virginie, 1856.*
Deception bay -
Middle of entrance
37 3
126 33
Caroline bav
West point of entrance -
37 1 30
126 25
Joachim harbour
,, ,,
36 53 30
126 17 50
Chasscriau bank
South extreme
36 59 20
126 18
Daniel island
West side - - -
38 17
124 56
Horsburgh.
Sir James Hall group
North island
37 56 j 124 44 30
Basil Hall, 1816.
Marjoribanks harbour
...
36 25
126 25
Horsburgh.
Mauzac islet
36 26 45
126 28
French frigate
Virginia, 1856.
Tas-de-Foin islet
-
36 24 30
126 24
>
Wai-ian-do island
.
36 15 45
126 9 50
M
Basil bay -
liucrin island -
Summit -
36 7 38
36 7
126 42 20
126 1 9
Basil Hall, 1816.
French frigate
Virginie, 1856.
Alceste island -
-
34 6
125 11 9
j?
Quelpart island
Observation spot on
33 29 40
126 58 25
Belcher, 1845.
middle of west side of
Bullock island.
Port Hamilton group
West point of Observa
34 1 23
127 20 34
Richards, 1855.
tory island.
ISLANDS OFF COAST OF CHINA.
Pralas island
North-east part
20 42 3
116 43 22
Richards, 1858.
Balintang islands
Centre of group -
19 58
122 14
Horsburifh.
Batan group
Islet off south-west
21 4 56
121 58 24
Belcher, 1843.
point of Y'Ami island.
Gadd rock
_
21 43
121 41
Ross, 1817.
Vela Rete rocks
_
21 42
120 52
Botel-Tobago sima -
South extreme
22 1 40
121 39 45
Beechey, 1826.
Little Tobago sima -
.
21 57 30
121 40 30
Formosa island
Ape hill -
22 38 3
120 16 30
Richards, 1855.
Saracen head
22 36 14
120 16 33
>
-
Port Kok-si-kon, Ob-
23 6
120 5
servatory point.
~
Tam-sui harbour, Sand
25 10 6
121 26 6
Gordon, 1847.
point.
it ~
Ke-lung harbour, Ruin
25 9
121 47
rock.
Foki point ...
25 19
121 37
Collinson, 1845.
Petou point -
25 8
121 57
Sau-o-bay, south point -
24 36
121 53
Mr. Blackney,
H.M.S. Inflexible,
1858.
Samasana island
-
22 41
121 28
Collinson, 1845.
Hoa-pin-su island
North face -
25 47 7
123 30 31
Belcher, 1845.
Meiaco-sima group -
Kumi island, north-
24 26
122 56
>
beach.
>
Broughton bay, landing
24 21 30
124 17 40
place.
Port Haddington, Hamil-
24 25
124 6 40
ton point.
Tai-pin-san, south-west
24 43 35
125 17 49
,,
bay.
Lu-chu group -
Napha-kiang road
26 12 25
127 42 20
Beechey, 1827.
Deep bay, observatory
26 35 35
127 59 42
American Chart,
spot at the head.
1854.
- -
Port Melville, Onting
26 40 42
128
Basil Hall, 1816.
village.
* The Virginias positions depend upon Quelpart island (observation spot, on middle of
west side of Bullock island) being 126 58' 25" East from Greenwich, The position of Chodo
is doubtful.
426
TAP.LE OF POSITIONS,
Place.
Particular Spot.
Latitude,
North.
Longitude,
East.
Authorities.
ISLANDS SOUTH-EAST AND EAST OF LU-CHU.
o / n
' /'
Borodino islands
Centre of south island -
25 52 45
131 12 17
American Chart,
1854.
Bishop rocks
Centre - - - -
25 20
131 15
Bishop, 1796.
Rasa or Kendrick
-
24 27
130 40
La Cannoniere,
\ island.
1807.
Parece Vela or Douglas
-
20 31
136 6
Sproule, 1848.
reef.
Lindsay island -
...
19 20
141 15 30
Lindsay, 1848.
Santa Rosa shoal
West extreme
12 80
144 15
Raper.
Guam island
Fort San Luis
13 26
144 45
French corvette
Uranie, 1819.
Rota or Sarpan island
North-east point -
14 12
145 23
f|
Aguijan island -
Tinian or Buena Vista
Centre -
Sunharom village
14 54
14 59
145 38
145 43
a
island.
Seypan island -
Peak --.-
15 13
145 49
Magicienne bay
15 8 30
145 44
H.M.S. Magici-
1'iine, 1858. '
Farallon de Medinilla
South point - - -
16
146 7
Freach corvette
or Bird island.
Uranie, 1819.
Anatagan island
East point -
16 20
145 47
,,
Sariguan island -
Centre - - - -
16 40
145 52
Zealandia breakers -
-
16 50
145 54
Foster, 1858.
Farallon de Torres -
Centre -
17 IK
145 57
French corvette
Uranie, 1819.
Guguan island -
East point
17 36
145 57
,,
Amalaguan island
North-east point -
18 6
145 58
Pagon island
Grigan island
North point -
18 17
18 51
145 52
145 43
Asuncion island
Peak'' -
19 41
145 27
Beechey, 1827.
Uraccas or Mangs
Centre -
19 57
145 20
Laperouse, 1786.
islands.
Guy rock -
})
20 30
145 32
Douglas, 1789.
Marshall or Los Jar-
21 40
151 35
Marshall, 1788.
dines islands.
Sebastian Lobos or
South-west island
25 10
146 40
Raper.
Grampus islands.
Forfana island -
Centre -
25 35
143
San Augustino island
Peak -
24 14
141 20
King, 1805.
Sulphur island -
24 48
141 13
,,
San Alessandro island
,,----
25 14
141 11
1799.
Mai abrigos or Mar-
Centre -
27 20
145 45
Magee, 1773.
garet islands.
Bonin islands
Port Lloyd in Peel
27 5 35
142 11 30
Beechey, 1827.
island.
,,
Newport in Hillsborough
26 36
142 9
American Chart,
island.
1854.
Rosario or Disappoint-
.
27 16
140 51
Raper.
ment island.
ISLANDS NORTH OF LU-CHU.
Yori sima -
Centre -
27 2
128 25 24
French Chart,
\
1846.
Yeirabu sima
South peak -
27 21
124 31 34
_
...
27 14
128 33
Collinson, 1845.
Tok sima -
Highest peak
27 44
128 59
French Chart,
1846.
Two sima -
....
27 51
128 19
Collinson, 1845.
Oho sima -
North extreme
28 31 40
129 40 12
American Chart,
1854.
Kikai sima
Summit
28 18
129 57 30
,,
Yoko sima
M "
28 49
128 59
French Chart,
1846.
Tokara sima
,
29 8
129 11
Sima-go islands
Highest
29 13
129 19
TABLE OF POSITIONS.
427
Place.
Particular Spot.
Latitude,
North.
Longitude,
East.
Authorities.
ISLANDS NORTH OF LU-CHU-e<wf.
' "
o > //
Akuisi sima
.
29 27
129 35
French Chart,
1846.
Suwa sima
-
29 38
129 42
?,
Fira sima -
-
29 41
129 31
Naka sima - - | Peak -
29 53
129 50
Hebi sima -
)?
29 55
129 32
Kohebi sima
29 53
129 36
Kutsino sima
Summit ...
29 59
129 55
Blake reef -
Highest rock
30 5
130 3
Yakuno sima
JMount Motomi
30 21
130 29
Seriphos rock -
.
30 44
130 45
(
Yerabu sima
Highest peak
30 27 130 11
Take sima - - -
Centre -
30 48 130 24
Iwoga sima
Highest peak
30 42 130 17
!
Powhattan reef -
-
30 41 130 19
U.S. frigate Pow
hattan, 1860.
Trio rocks -
Centre rock -
30 45 130 5
French Chart,
1846.
Kuro sima -
Centre - - - -
30 50
129 55
99
Ingersoll rocks -
Highest -
30 51
129 26
55
Udsi sima -
Largest -
31 12
129 23
Retribution rocks
-
31 23
129 37 30
H.M'.S. Retrlbu-
tion, 1858.
Nadiejda rocks -
.
31 48
129 36
French Chart,
1846.
ISLANDS OFF SOUTH-EAST COAST OF NIPON.
Lots Wife rock -
.
29 47
140 22 30
American Chart,
1854.
Ponafln island -
.
30 33
140 15
ft
Smith island
.....
31 18
139 50
H.M.S. Tribune,
1859.
Bayonnaise island
.
32 40
140
American Chart,
1854.
Onanga sima
Fatziziu island -
Centre -
32 30
33 G
139 50
139 43
Broughton rock
.
33 42
139 17
,,
Meac sima
....
34 6
139 29
n
Mecoura island -
.
33 54
139 35
tt
Redfield rocks -
Centre - - - -
33 56 50 i 138 49
~
Kozu sima
>>
34 13 15 139 8
H
Olio sima -
South-east point -
34 39 30 139 28
North point - - -
34 47 30 139 24
j>
JAPAN ISLANDS.
Kiusiu island
Nipon island, south-
east coast.
Strait of T sugar
Nagasaki harbour, Ne-
zumi sima.
Gulf of Tutomi, Enora
bay.
Ileda bay
,, Arari bay
Tago bay
Cape Idsu -
Rock island -
Simoda harbour, Centre
Island.
Yedo bay, Cape Sagami
' Webster island
Islet off Cape Mat-
sumae.
32 43 22
129 50 33
Richards, 1855.
35 10
138 53
Russian frigate
Diana, 1853-55.
34 58 11
138 48
a
34 50
138 46
34 47 3
138 46
j)
34 36
138 50 35
American Chart,
1854.
34 34 20
138 57 10
34 39 49
138 57 30
3G 6 30
139 42 45
35 18 30
139 40 34
41 24 54
140 7 20
Richards, 1855.
428
TABLE OF POSITIONS.
Place.
Particular Spot.
Latitude,
North.
Longitude,
East.
Authorities.
JAPAN ISLANDS cont.
Strait of T^ugar
Nipon island,west coast
Yezo island
Hakodadi harbour, en-
trance to Kamida
creek.
Small islet on west side
of Cape Nambu.
Red Cliff point
Centre of Low island off
Toriwi saki.
North side of Tatsupi
saki.
Small rock off south side
of Cape Greig.
South-west Bittern rock
Tabu sima -
West point of Sado is-
land.
Yutsi sima -
Astrolabe rock
Cape Noto
North point of Oki is-
lands.
Centre of Mino sima
Cape Louisa -
Richards island
Obree island -
Peak of Wilson island -
Rock in centre of chan-
nel on north-west side
of Firado island.
South side of Yenoi
sima.
North side of island
within Hardy harbour.
Peak of Kusa-saki is-
land.
Pallas rocks, largest
Volcano bay, Cape Ye-
tomo.
' "
41 47 8
' "
140 45 34
Richards, 1855.
41 25 24
141 28 32
41 28 7
41 33 34
141 9
140 56 36
41 16 17
140 22 37
41 5 39
140 20 19
N
40 31
39 31
38 1
139 31
138 53
138 17
J>
37 50 30
37 35
37 28
36 30
136 55
136 54
137 22
133 23
34 48
34 40
34 32
33 51
33 54
33 21 30
131 9
131 36
131 18
130 2
130 25
129 26 11
J>
5>
32 59 44
129 21 24
32 49
128 56 33
32 2 47
128 30 42
n
32 14 17
42 21
128 13 30
140 56 30
American Chart,
1854.
KURIL ISLANDS.
Kunashir - - -
St. Anthony peak-
44 31
145 46
Golownin, 1811.
Chikotan -
Centre -
43 53
146 43 30
n
Iturup
Cape Okebets
45 38 30
149 14
n
,,
Cape Rickord
44 29
146 34
[Trup -
Cape Kastrikum -
46 16
150 22
Cape Vanderlind -
45 39
149 34
Brat Chirnoef -
.
46 29 15
150 33 30
,
Rebuntsiriboi
-
46 32 45
150 37 10
(
Broughton
-
46 42 30
150 28 30
!
Simusir -
Prevost peak
47 2 50
151 52 50
,
Ketoy -
South point - - -
47 17 30
152 24
,
Matua
Peak -
48 6
153 12 30
Krusenstern,1805.
Raikoke .. - -
,,----
48 16 20
153 15
,,
Musir - - -
.
48 35
153 44
it
Shiash-kotan
Centre - - - -
48 52
154 8
M
Kharim-kotan -
Peak - ---
49 8
154 39
n
One-kotan
South-west point -
49 19
154 44
Makanrushi
Centre -
49 51
154 32
w
Shumshu -
>
50 46
156 26
Alaid
>
50 54
}55 32
TABLE OF POSITIONS.
429
Place/
Particular Spot.
Latitude,
North.
Longitude,
East.
Authorities.
KAMCHATKA, SOUTH-EAST COAST.
O ' "
O ' "
Mount Villeuchinski
Peak --- -
52 42
158 20
Beechev, 1827.
Petropaulski
Church -
53 58
158 43 30
'
SEA OF JAPAN AND GULF OF TARTARY.
Sentinel Island -
34 34
128 53
French corvette
Capricieuse, 1852.
Tsus siina -
Observatory rock, Tsus-
34 18 55
129 12
Ward, 1859.
sima sound.
Main siina
Peak - ---
37 22 130 56
Russian frigate
Pallas, 1854.
Liancourt rocks
.
37 14 131 55
H.M.S. Hornet,
1855.
Chosan harbour
Observation spot -
35 6 6
129 1 49
Ward, 1859.
Cape Clonard
.
36 5 45
129 33 30
Russian frigate
Pallas, 1854.
Port Lazaref
Observation point, South
39 19 12
127 32 48
11, miles from south
end of Butenef is-
land.
Napoleon road -
Musoir rock, west point
42 37 22 ; 130 44 10
H.M.S. Winches-
of entrance.
ter, 1855.
Guerin Gulf -
Sandy point -
43 9 : 131 50
Hornet bay
Fox island -
42 41 132 56
H.M.S. Hornet.
1856.
Islet point
.
42 49
133 51
n
Port Michael Seymour
Observation spot at
43 46
135 19
head of port.
St. Vladimir day
Low point ...
43 53 40
135 27 21
Ward, 1859.
Shelter bay
.
44 28
136 2
I [.M.S. Surra
couta, 1856.
Sybillc bay
-
44 43 45
136 22 SO
Pique bay - - -
Bullock bay
_
44 46 15
45 2
136 27 15
136 44
Luke point
.
45 19 30
137 10 15
Cape Disappointment
.
45 40 30
137 38 15
Cape Stifr'ren
.
47 20
138 58
Fish river -
. . . -
47 55
139 31
n
Low cape -
.
48 28
140 10
,,
Beachy head
-
48 56
140 21
Barracouta harbour -
Tullo island - - -
49 1 50
140 19
w
Castries bay
Quoin point - - -
51 28
140 49 30
H.M.S. Hornet,
1855.
Jonquiere bay -
- - -
50 54
142 7
"
LAPEROUSE STRAIT.
Risiri- -
Pic dc Langle
45 11
141 12 15
Krunscnstern,
1805.
Refunsiri -
Cape Hieber ...
45 27 45
141 4
Cape Notoro
....
45 54 15
141 57 56
Cape Nossyab -
. . . -
45 25 50
141 34 20
,,
Dangerous rock
_
45 47 15
142 8 45
Laperouse.
Cape Siretoko -
-
46 2 20
143 30 20
Krusenstern,
1805.
EAST AND NORTH COAST OF SAGHALIN.
Cape Lb'wenbrn
....
46 23 10
143 40
n
Cape Tonin
...
46 50
143 33
Cape Seniavin -
.
47 16 30
142 59 30
Bernizet peak -
-
47 33
142 20
n
430
TABLE OF POSITIONS.
Place.
Particular Spot.
Latitude,
North.
Longitude,
East.
Authorities.
EAST AND NORTH COAST OF SAGHALIN cout.
O ' "
O ' "
Cape Moulovskoi
.......
47 57 45
14'J 44
Kruscnstcrn,
1805.
Cape Dalrymple
.
48 '21
142 50
n
Cape Soimonof
.
48 52 30
143 1 30
Cape Patience -
.
48 52
144 46 15
Robben island -
Centre - - - -
48 32 15
144 23
!>
N.E. edge of reef -
48 36
144 33
n - -
S.W. edge of reef -
48 28
141 10
w
Cape Bellingshausen
.
40 35
144 25 45
Cape Rimnik
.
50 12 30
144 5
,,
Mount Tiara
.
50 3
143 37
JJ
Cape Ratmanof -
_
50 48
143 53 15
Cape Delisle dc la
-
51 30
143 43
Croyere.
Downs point
_
51 53
143 13 30
Cape Otmeloi -
.
52 32 30
143 14 30
Cape Virst
_
52 57 30
143 17 30
.,
Cape Klokatcheff
...
53 46
143 7
Cape Lowenstern
...
54 3 15
143 12 30
Cape Elizabeth -
.
54 24 30
142 46 30
Cape Maria
-
54 17 30
142 17 45
SEA OF OKHOTSK.
Great Shantar island -
North point - - -
55 11
137 40
)>
St. lona island -
....
56 25 30
143 15 45
Port Aiari -
Cape Vneshni
56 25 28
138 25 50
Russian chart,
1851.
431
INDEX.
Page
Page
Abbey point
- 303
Amoy harbour, 6, 7,
11. 97-101, 105,
f
QH i
i nfi 9 on
reel -
Aberdeen Harbour -
31
city -
JLUOj ^7w
- 101
{__ j
ofij. 9fif;
i ,
Iflq
Abulu river
- 269
island 3, 9, 10,
101, 102, 104, 123
Acahi Fanahi point
- 314
outer harbour
99
Accar island - -
302
cnt
anpp OQ_lf>3
Achau island
28,43
Amphitrite strait - - 369
Acong rock
70, 71, 75
Amur, gulf of
- 406
Actfcon shoal
218
river
- 407
Adam peak
- 299
Anatajan island
- 318
Adams, port
- 237
Anbian village
- 384
Adeloup point
- 314
Andrew, St., island -
- 159
Adolphe islet - 252
, 253, 254
Angle island
- 140
Agagna bay and harbour
- 314
Aniwa bay -
- 411
Agenhu island
304, 305
Aniwa Vries, cape -
- 411
Agfayan bay
- 312
Anjou point
- 388
Agincourt island
299, 303
Annenkof island
384, 387
.Aguijau island
- 315
Anson bay -
51
Ahayan point
- 312
Anthony, St., peak -
- 366
Aian port
- 418
Anung-hoy island -
38, 51, 52, 53, 56
Ai-chau islands - 24,
25, 28, 44
nccilc
48, 52
Akuisi sima
- 326
wvffit*
-48, 49, 51, 52
Alaid island
- 370
Ao-shan island
167, 177
Alamaguan island -
- 319
Apari
- 269
Albert peak
- 151
road -
- 269
*w**4M*1n
- 396
Apapa island
314
Alceste island - 218,220,221
, 230, 260
Ape hill
281-284
nli nal
- 279
Apollos island
- 327
oilOdl
Alemene island
- 327
Apomee island
18
Alessandro, San, island
- 320
Apomi point
- 15
Alfred peninsula
- 252
Apra village
- 313
- 254
Ap-tan-shan island -
- 168
Algerine point
- 172
Arari bay -
- 339
Alligator point - - 172
, 184, 186
Arevief isles
- 389
-i j
- 135
Argonaut island
- 379
Aliman point
385, 388
Argun river
- 407
Amakirrima islands -
- 302
Ariadne rock
192, 197
American anchorage
- 345
Arzobispo islands -
321-323
i.
54, 58
Asses ears peaks
- 28
Amherst rocks - - 181
_ nnint
, 192, 196
HI
group
354, 357
. 34.Q
432
INDEX.
Page
Page
Asuncion island
- 319
Bay rock
- 249
Aube bluff -
- 395
Baylis Bay -
87,88
Auckland mount
- 262
Bayonnaise isle
- 328
Augustino, San, island
- 320
Beachy head
- 403
Avatcha bay
370-375
Beacon hill
16, 170, 185, 186
nuinfit
0*9
'Unnr.r.
T4.4.
Avos island
- 369
point
ot*
- 344
Avvakum islets -
- 390
- 170
Awadji island
- 337
Beak head -
- 161
A nrnnta i.Ir
95 98
156 158 161
^i. *\ ooia rocK
162, 184
- 161
island -
156, 161
Bear islet
- 155
Baboushka rock
- 372
Beaufort island
- 32
Babuyan Claro island
271, 272, 273, 275
Becher islets
- 180
Babuyan islands
270, 271-273
,
- 211
Baikal lake
- 407
Beehive rock
178, 181
Baily islands
- 321
Belavenz mountains
- 383
Baksanova -
- 407
Bell channel 168,
169, 184, 185, 186
Baleine rock
- 392
island - 92,
167, 168, 171, 184
Balintang channel -
- 275
rock
- 168
islands
- 274
Bella Vista island -
- 149
Baliuzeka peninsula
- 398
Bellingshausen cape
- 414
Ballast island
15, 16
Bentinck bank
- 189
Bangao islands
- 153
Bergasse point
- 393
- 153
Bernizet peak
412,413
Bangui point
- 268
Bias bay
70-75
WMH*
- 268
point
71, 73
Barker island
- 208
Bielaya Skala island
- 390
Barlow island
- 263
Big inland -
- 73
Barn head -
- 305
Bill islet
85, 86
Barnpool anchorage
- 305
Bird island -
128, 318
y> rt+rtl-
- 3, 5
i*ock ~~
159
xsaromcier
Barracouta harbour -
400, 403
Bishop rocks
- 310
_ i.
- 356
Bit rock - -
182, 183
Barren bay -
bluff
- 150
403, 404
Bittern island
- 139
133
- 157
347 358
Barren island
isles - 177,
178, 181, 182, 195
Black Cliff head
- 133
Barrete island
271, 272
head -
95, 96, 131, 132
Barrow bay -
- 308
- 262
Ink city
- 217
- 82
Basalt island
- 65, 66, 383
Blackney reach
- 211
Bashi islands
3, 4, 7, 274-279
Black-peaked rock -
119, 120
Basil bay -
258, 259
Black point
- 199
Batan islands
-270, 274-279
Black rock, 22, 126, 127, 135, 136, 170
Bate island -
71, 73, 74, 75, 76
328
.
53, 56
in 504
rock -
Bateman island
- 157
i \y, ?
- 81
Bay islet
65, 66
. rocks -
380, 96
INDEX.
433
Blackball channel - 12,
Page
169, 172, 173, 184
172, 173
- 172
- 173
- 54
- 327
- 346
58
193, 196
249, 250
185, 187
201, 202
303, 304
60
21,68
C5, 66
- 100
- 360
- 40
89
3, 49, 51, 52, 53,
55, 56
- 23
- 392
268, 270
270, 271
- 389
- 182
- 4, 321-323
- 331
- 6, 109, 111
- 310
- 385
8, 278, 279, 294
- 257
- 390
333, 376
365, 368
51, 52, 56, 57
- 143
- 368
87, 88, 91
- 9, 10, 76, 83
121, 122
- 293
131, 134
51, 52
86, 87, 88
- 88
14-18
- 173
Brood rocks
Brooke island
Brother A islet
Brother B islet
Brothers islets 36,
Page
- 329
- 182
- 132
- 132
89, 92, 97, 103, 130
)2, 97, 103, 178, 372
229, 368, 382-388
- 366
- 378
- 368
- 329
- 389
- 397
- 58
- 395
54, 58
- 54
- 398
- 321
- 315
, 155, 156, 158, 161,
184
155-157
- 341
- 400
6, 144
262, 263
- 210
- 27
- 392
- 262
191, 289
- 68
- 386
- 213
- 314
- 230
182, 183
- 71
271, 272
- 41
163, 184
- 58
29, 30, 44
270, 271, 273, 274
- 256
259, 260
- 190
E E
pass
Blake point
Blanco, cape
Blenheim passage -
Blockhouse island -
Blonde island
Broughton bay
shoal
Blossom Keef
Blue river -
Bluff head -
island -
Blundell rock
Blunt, cape -
Boat islet
Bruat, cape -
Brown channel
reach
Bruce port -
Brunswick patches -
Brydone island
Buckland island
Buena Vista island -
Buffaloes Nose channel
Boca Tigris, 19, 47, 4
Boddam Cove
Bodisco peninsula -
Bojeador, cape
Bolinao, cape
Boltin, cape
Bonham isles
Bonin islands
Buisaco islet
Bullock bay
Bullocks Head gate
Buoy rock -
Burnet island
Bush island -
reef
Boot sand -
Borodino islands
Bosquet peninsula -
Botel-Tobago sima -
Boui'-t island
Bougarel point
Boungo channel
Boussole channel
Bower point
Brass Basin island -
Brat Chirnoef island
Breaker island
Butenef island
Bythesea channel -
Cabras island
Cairn hill -
Cairnsmore rock
Cake islet -
Calayan island
Cambodia, coast of -
Cambrian pass
Cambridge reach
Breakwater islet
Bremer channel
Brig island -
rock -
Broadway -
Broken island
[C.]
Camiguin island 269
Camille island
Camp islet -
Canpu
434
INDEX.
Canton - - 17,
Page
55, 56, 61
QQ K1 KQ
Channel island
Pat?e
219,220, 221
- 295
- 253
7, 97, 98, 103, 106
- 189
189, 190, 191
- 190
- 250
- 252
91, 92, 94, 98
- 92
- 97, 99, 103
- 79
- 7!
- 91
- 151
- 182
245, 246
- 336
- 209
24, 27, 28, 29, 43
- 227
- 390
221-225
221,224
223, 224
- 401
100, 103
- 232
232, 233, 237
148, 149
- 3GG
- 142
- 182
117, 119
116-119
- 232
11, 108, 109, 285
- 108
- 108
94, 95, 96, 98
- 126
- 308
- 1-9
111, 290
- 112
6, J09, 110
- 245
- 6, 166, 171
- 95
97, 98,99, 101
14-50
56-58
7
- 247
170, 172
392, 393
- 37
- 303
- 117
- 268
- 397
252, 253
- 403
392, 393
- 143
- 37
- 137
, 157, 323
264, 265
400, 404
, 391, 393
400, 408
- 366
20, 21, 38
268, 271
326-328
- 305
- 160
- 68
- 341
- 313
- 275
- 149
- 52
88, 91
91
136, 138
- 134
- 211
- 256
179, 180
- 205
227, 228,
230, 234
228, 230
- 179
- 179
179
- 50
Chapeau rock
Chapel island
Chapu
bay -
Cap island - - -
Capricieuse bay
Cap-sing-mun passage
Capstan Head rock -
Cap Yit islet
Caravallo point
Careening harbour -
Caroline bay
Carr bank -
Cassini island
Castellated rock
Castle Peak island -
Castle point -
rock - - 3S
Castles group
Castries bay
Casy point - 390
Catherine, cape
Charer island
Chasseriau bank
Chauan bay
Chauchat rocks
Che-chin point
Chelang point
Chelsieu rocks
Cheng rock
Chesney island
Chiang ho -
Chichakoff cape
Chi-chau pagoda
Chief bay -
Chienlong mount
Chi-fau cape
Cau-chau islands
Cavndian point
Cecille archipelago -
Cemetery point
Central islanda
Centre isle -
Chihachef, cape
Chih-seu island
Chi-kau
Chi-kau ho -
Chikhok island
Chikotan island
Chi-kyan province -
Childers rock
Chim bank -
Cetti bay
Chaguie point
Chain islands
Challum bay
Chi-ma-tau promontory
Chimmo bay
Changchi island - 135,
Chang-kia-kau
Chang-kon-yam island
Chang-pih island G, 173, 174,
Chang-sang chau
Chang-shan island - 225, 226,
Chimney island
China sea -
Chin-chu
, . harbour
Chang-tan island
Ching ho
Chin Keang harbour
Ching rock -
Chin-ha point
Channel banks
INDEX.
435
Page
Pago
Chin hai
- 86, 185-188
Chu-shan pagoda
- 204
Chinkeamun harbour
6, 166, 176, 177
Chwang-shan island
- 254
Chin-kiang fu
- 206
Citadel hill -
- 186
Chin-ki island
146, 147
Clair, St., island
- 328
Chino bay -
80
Clam islet -
- 115
. hills
- 81
Claret rocks
- 137
1
79, 80
Cleft islet -
96
*~":
80
rock
96, 141
Chin-quan island
- 141
Cliff island -
92, 116, 151, 153
Chin san island
158, 181
islet -
92, 113, 160, 173
Chin-tseao patches -
99,100
rocks - 145,
146, 175, 178, 179
Chipounskoi cape -
- 370
Clifford islands
' - 251
Chirin-kotan island -
- 369
Cliffy islands
- 117
Chirnoi island
- 368
Clio rock
23,44
Chloe island
- 159
Clipper point
87, 88, 89
Chock-e-day village
- 294
87, 88, 89
Chodo island
250, 251
Clonard, cape
- 381
Choho pagoda
110, 111
Closter Camp point -
- 404
reef -
- 110
Club point -
77, 230
Chome isle -
406, 408
Cluster islands
- 174
Chosan harbour
- 380
Coal harbour
- 291
Christmas island
- 210
Coal, Coal harbour -
- 291
Chukea island 163,
164, 165, 184, 195
, Fu-chu bay -
- 238
peak
- 164
, Hankau
- 215
Chung-chau-si island
-26, 27,46,47
, Jonquiere bay
401, 405
Chus Peak island
- 163
, Ke-lung
- 290
Chu-kiang -
51-58
, Nagasaki
- 357
Chu-ying bay
- 258
, Niu-chwang -
- 240
Chnck-tu aan island
- 26
, Shah bay
- 308
Chuen-pee, fort
52, 56
, Tam-sui harbour
- 288
Tiill
51
rn rt'U-
- 225
, j.eng-cnau
- 49 51, 52, 56
Coast islet -
70 75 220
51, 53
Cochin China
3, 6, 8, 41
Chuen-pi island
- 168
Cocks Comb
- 61
Chuh isle
- 166
head
212,213
Chuhpi island
- 140
!-
- 389
- 140
Cocos island
- 312
Chuh-seu island
149, 150
Cod, cape
- 223
Chuk-wan island
- 24, 28, 44
Codrika point
383
Chu-lu-cock island -
36
Coffin islands
- 15, 88, 321
Chung island
32, 120
Coin island -
- 144
vi/w|f|4
187, 188
Coker rock -
102, 103
pUlLlL
Chung-chi island
- 296
Collinson island
- 213
109, 110
Colnet island
- 351
Chung-chau island -
- 26, 27, 43, 44
Column point
- 395
Chung-hue island -
- 37
Company's island
- 367
Chusan archipelago -
3,6,9, 10, 11, 12,
Cone islet -
- 385
155, 157, 158-184
hill -
- 187
them part 177-182
island 70 71 137
138, 139, 152, 265
island - 162,
163, 164, 165-177,
peak -
- 92, 93, 188
179, 184, 186, 195
rock -
- 157,348, 351
E E 2
436
INDEX.
Pajre
Page
Conical Hill island -
- 161
Damson islets - - - 160
islet
- 360
Daneono island - - 312
Conic isle -
- 66
Danes island 54, 55, 57, 58
Constantino rock
- 326
Dangerous reef - - 249
Contest patches
- 188
rocl~ 110 d')9
Conway island ,
- 161
"hoal 09
Cony island - 136
, 138, 139
Daniels island - 254
islet -
- 136
D'Anville, gulf - 391, 392
Cooper group
- 326
D'Apres, cape - 389
Cordelia rock
30,31
Dansborg island - 95
Corkers patches
155, 156
Daussy point 390
Cork point -
- 97
David island - - 157
Connorandiere rock
- 252
Deadman island - 184,185,186
Cornwallis stone - - 101
, 102, 103
Deans Dundas port - - 396
Couding island
133, 134
Deception bay - - 252
Court reach -
- 212
Deep bay , - - - - 307
Cows Horn peak - -119
, 120, 121
Deep water bay - 31
Cox point -
- 136
Deer island - 167, 169, 170, 171, 177
Crab islet - - 89, 90, 137
point -
- 96
Delisle de la Croyere, cape - - 414
Crack islet -
- 173
Dent, cape - - 404
Crag island -
- 138
Denudees islands - - 257
peak -
- 290
Dequez island - 274, 276
Craig island
295, 303
Desfosses point - - 384, 385
Crate island
- 149
Destitution, cape - - 404
Creek point -
- 242
Devils peak - 41
Crescent island
68, 69
Dezima shoal . 357
Crillon cape
- 410
Diablo point - - 314
Crookback island
- 148
Diamond, cape - 340
Crooked island
68, 69
Diane strait- - - 368
Crown island
- 324
Didicas rocks - 270, 274
- 381
Difficult islet - - 91
/"I v * /
Cumbrian reef
Cum-sing-mum harbour
- 277
- 21
Dike islet - - 151
Cupchi island
82, 83
Dile point - - 270
point
81, 82, 83
Diogo island 274, 277
Current from Formosa to Japan
10, 335,
Dioyu reef - - - 91
341
Diplo islet - - 137
Currents in China sea
- 6-8
Direction bluff - - 373
^ mount - - 392 393
Japan sea
Currie channel
- 376
- 397
Directions, Formosa channel - 287
Cuvier peninsula
* 393
, Gulf of Pe-chili to Hong
Cyclones - - 4
, 304, 332
Kong - 12
TT^- T7"^- . 4.^. "V- . 4.f,n
kiang - - 9-12
T i^l- .J~ * 1 nm
Dagelet island
- 379
o :.* -- n * ^rt, m
D'Aguilar, cape
- 34
Dajette island
- 379
Dalrymple, cape
- 413
Disappointment, cape - - 400
Dalupiri island
271. 272
i . ifilflnrl 323
INDEX.
437
.
l >a ^ e T ,
Page
Disaster island
Djaore, cape
326
- 408
point -
- 178
Dodd island -
103, 106, 107
Edible Plant city -
- 231
ledge -
- 107
Eighteen Yits
114, 117
Dodo rocks -
- 346
Elephant island 100, 162, 163,
167, 168,
Dome bay -
125, 126
169, 170
hill
123, 126
Elgin reach -
- 207
- island
90, 125
Elias mount
- 232
- 285
Elizabeth, cape - 415
, 416, 420
Tutivi*
- 294
Ellicott isle -
179, 180
Dot rock
- 90
Elliot passage
- 58
Double haven
- 69
Elliott islets
- 182
oen
Ellis island - - -
- 230
island
68, 69, 86
Endermo harbour
- 365
Double Peak island -
138, 139
Encounter rock
- 247
rocks
222, 223
Engano, cape
269, 270
Double-topped mountain
- 308
English reach
55, 58
Double Yit islet
- 117
Enora bay -
- 338
Doub rocks -
175, 178
Entrance head
- 78
Douglas reef
- 311
hill
- 78
Doves nest -
- 202
island
91, 168
point -
- 210
Esamu, cape
- 360
Downs point
- 415
Esarmi point
- 365
Druid head -
- 104
1 O
Eugenie archipelago
- 396
Duff rock
16o
53, 56
Duffield pass 10, 158,
159, 160, 183, 184
i K (\
Facpi point -
- 313
159
Fakew island
- 144
Dumb islet -
- 185
Fakuda saki
- 356
Dumbell bay
- 73
Fall island -
- 150
Dundas cape
- 262
1 *7rt
peak -
93, 94, 98
Dun-gan river
Dunsterville group -
Duroc, cape -
170
- 386
173, 191
- 382
False Capstan Head rock
False Saddle island -
Fan-lo-kong harbour and village
Fan-si-ak channel -
- 303
- 181
- 73
49, 50
D'Vissers island
- 126
islet
38, 39, 50
Dzino island
- 338
Dzinosetto strait
- 338
Fa pew
Farallon de Medinilla island
61
- 318
Farallon de Torres island
- 318
Farmer rock
- 142
Ear island -
- 218
Fatsiziu island
- 329
East cone peak
- 69
Fat-shan
60
Eastern river
- 386
Feklistoff island
- 418
East island -
123, 283
Feleny point
- 383
islet -
- 165
Fellowes passage
- 397
peak -
- 106
Fernande island - -252,253,254
rock -
- 165
Ferry, the -
132, 133
Saddle island -
- 178
Fielon island
- 139
White Stone -
80, 81
Figure rock
81
E-chau head
30
Fiki channel
- 333
Eddy island -
- 223
Finger rock -
- 223
438
INDEX.
Page
Page
Fiogo port - -
- 338
Fort hill
- 146
Firado island
352, 353
island -
86, 87, 88
Firando island
- 352
Fortescue island
- 403
Fira siina
- 326
Fortaumun pass
63, 64
Fir cone rock
- 149
Foto channels
12
First bar -
54, 61
Four-feet rock
26
54 57 58
Four-feet needle rock
A A
54
Four Sisters rocks
- *4
17ft
First Cone point
w*s
- 157
Fox island -
1 4 O
- 397
Fisher island 6, 122, 124, 125, 126, 127,
Freeman point
- 403
128, 173,321
French island
- 54
Fishennans group 158, 165,
175, 178, 181
- 58
rock 6
229 230 231
Friendly islands
187 188
Fish river -
- 402
Front island
- 156
Fitton bay -
- 322
Fu-chau bay 130, 222,
225, 237, 238, 239,
Fitz-Roy island
- 209
240, 241
Fire Brothers rock -
- 82
Fu-chau fu -
9, 121
Five islands
271, 274
Fuga island -
269, 271, 272, 273
Flag island ...
- 119
Fuh-ning
- 139
Flak island -
- 107
bay
137, 138, 139
Flap island -
- 139
Fuh-yan island
140, 141
Flare island
- 147
pass
- 140
Flask island
- 144
Fu-kyen province -
- 288
Flat bay
- 414
boundary -
- 91, 117, 142
cape ...
- 238
Fu-mun entrance
- 51
island - 54, 57, 58, 67,
126, 133, 163
Fung bay -
- 66
reef
76, 108
head -
66, 67
rock -
79, 83, 134
Funghwa river
157, 186
Top isle
- 238
Funing island
- 179
Flats opening
- 17
Furious rock
- 205
Fog islands -
190, 191
shoals
210, 212, 215, 216
Fogs
12, 402, 420
Furngelm island
- 392
Fokai hills ...
74, 76
Fu-shan
203, 204
;*
74, 75, 76, 77
hill
- 203
Foki point ...
- 286
Fu-to island
159, 160
Folkstone rock
- 88
Futz-kau
- 212
Fong-chuen -
62
Fuyung Quoin island
- 232
Fong-ho islet
- 139
Fuzi, mount
- 333
Fong-whang group -
143, 144
Fuzi-yama -
333, 342
Forcade rock
- 327
Forester rock
60
Forfana island
- 320
Gadd rock -
277,278
Formosa banks
- 129
Gales in China sea -
6
3, 10, 12, 13
Gamaley, cape
346, 356, 364
island 2, 3, 4, 6
, 8, 9, 10, 11,
Gamova cape
- 391
123, 126,
278, 279-296
Gan-ching rocks
- 175
279 285
Gan-keang harbour -
- 255
OOl OQfi
,-, . . ,
, N. coast, directions
f9 1 ~/O
285-291
Lian-su island
Gapan islet -
- 314
Fort head -
87, 91
Gap islet
- 142
bay
- 10
rock
28, 29, 44
INDEX.
439
Page
Page
Gap tree
- 264
Grigan island
- 319
Gautau island
66, 67, 69, 150
Guajan island
- 311
Gauze islet -
- 25
Guam island
- 311
Gavarea cape
370, 372
Guardhouse isle
-166, 168, 169
Gay-une islet
29
Guerin gulf -
- 395
Gee-fou island
53, 54, 56, 57
island
- 256
rock
- 54
Guguan island
- 319
George island
- 31
Guinapac rocks
270, 273, 274
Germantown reef
- 325
Gulai
- 112
Ghiruma island
- 302
Gulf rock -
- 404
Giffard island
- 263
Gull island -
- 161
_
- 283
Gilbert river
- 398
Gun cliff -
- 359
Glasenap island
- 408
Gutzlaff island 12, 182,
183, 190, 191, 192,
Glue city
- 217
193,
194, 196, 197, 198
Gnaton village
- 314
Guy rock
- 320
Goat island -
78, 274
Golden island
- 206
Haddington, port
- - 297,300
Golovachef, cape
- 406
Hadshi bay -
- 403
Golovnin strait
- 369
Hae head
118, 121
Goncharof, cape
- 388
Hagemir isle
- 406
Good Hope, cape of -
10, 83, 84, 85, 86
Hai-tan bay
- 118
Goodridge point
- 139
^ island
117-122
Goo rock
- 95
- 118
Gordon bay
- 141
strait 6 9
11, 109, 115, 118-
ilet
135, 137
120, 122
Gore island ~
151, 152
- 109
Goshkevich bay
- 390
Hailing island
- 41
Gotto, cape -
- 353
Hai-mun
83, 149
Gou^h pass -
160, 161, 183, 184
hav
83, 84
Grain islet -
174, 175
Doint ~
84, 85
Grampus islands
- 320
84
Grass island
67, 68
Hainan head
- 45
Grassy Tongue
- 57
i j
5, 6, 8, 41
IbidilU
Grave island
- 171
Hai-ning
- 189
Gravener island
- 213
Hai-ye-tse -
- 245
Great Bamboo island
- 227
Hak-chau island
- 25
Black island -
- 228
Hakodadi bay
- 361
^ Ladronc island 6
14 :> 1 99 24 8
- 334
it, -1, mm, A*, -iO,
41,44, 45
harbour ~~
262, 361, 362
. IJu-chu island
- 302
lioarl
346, 360
Pass -
60, 61
Halezof cape
- 406
San-pwan island
144, 145
Half-tide reef
- 90
Volcano island
- 319
rock
133, 154
Wall of China
237, 241, 242
Hall island -
- 178
West channel to Canton river 14, 21,
Hamelin strait
- 396
45,46
Hamilton point
- 300
Green island
41, 42, 72, 73
port, group
261, 262, 264, 265
,!,,*
65, 85
Hand bay -
- 249
Greig, cape -
358, 364
Han river - 10,
85, 86, 87, 214, 215
Griffin rock -
- 67
Hanadi islet
- 309
INDEX.
Hang-chu bay 12,
Page
177, 178, 188, 189, Hills passage
Pg
59
190, 191
Hillsborough island -
- 321
Hang-chu fu
190
Hiogo port -
- 338
Han kau
- 191,214,215
Hirase rock -
- 357
reach
- 214
Hoa-ock islet
22, 24
to Wusung
- 215
Hoa-pin-su island -
- 295
Han-yang -
- 214
Hoc-kang fort
- 17
Harbour group
72
Hodo island
- 388
island
68, 325, 352, 353
Hokeang bank
- 132
rock
- 291
island
130, 131
Rouse
- 12, 156, 161
Hokeen island
- 145
Harlem bay
70, 74, 75
Hok-tau point
- 17
peak
75, 76, 77
Holderness rock
- 154
Harp island -
- 295
Hole island -
66
Harty island
- 175
rock -
- 305
Harvey point
- 202
Hong-ha'i bay
77, 78, 79
Hasyokan island
- 299
island
77, 78
Hat islet
76, 77
Hong-hau -
18
rock
- 253
Hong-Kong island 9,
12, 13, 14, 31, 32, 33,
Ha-tse island
- 167
34, 35, 40, 42, 55, 63, 270
Hauseu island
103, 104
33, 34, 37, 41, 63
Haycock islet
- 251
Hong-shan river
- 17
Hea-che-mun channel
- 162
Hook islands
- 171
Hea-chu islet
- 148
Hooper island
262, 263
Heang-shan -
- 17
Hope bay
- 85
Hea-ta island
- 148
sound -
- 227,228,230
Hebe island -
- 159
Horns, N.W. & S.W.,
Kugged island 183
islet
74, 75
Horner peak
- 336
lock
146, 147
Hornet bay -
- 397
reef -
- 134
islands
- 379
Heber reef -
- 304
Hou point -
- 125
Hebi-sima -
- 326
Houbland islets
- 174
Heda bay -
- 339
Hou-ki island
- 229
Helens island
- 258
Hounlodgna bay
- 312
Hele rock
- 308
House hill -
- 97
Hen and Chicks rocks
183, 190
J~T ~A
- 189
Hen point -
- 209
Ilsin-shai-kau
- 244
Heong-kong bay
31
Hueung river
14-18
Herbert island
- 308
Hugon cape
391, 393
Hesper rock
- 226, 229, 230
Ilu-i-tau bay 7, 11, 101, 106, 107, 109
Hewen rocks
109, 110
point
101, 106, 107, 108
Hie-che-chin bay
- 77,79, 80, 83
IIulu shan bay
237, 238, 241
Hienfung mount
- 383
Hunchback hills
64, 68
mountains
- 389
Hung rocks
116, 117
Hieshan gronp
- 151, 154, 155
Hungry rock
- 357
High Cone peak
114, 117
Hungwha channel -
115, 117
Fair Head hill
93
115, 116
islands 65, 66, 92, 123, 124, 125.
sound 6, 109,
113,114, 115, 116,
129,274
~-i
117
- 109
pilots
Shar peak
- 131
Hunter islands
157, 212
Hill islet
25,29
Hut islet -
- 96
INDEX.
441
Pafie
Pag
Hut island -
- 163
Jansen rock
- 162
Ilutau bay -
- 145
Japan islands
- 266, 333-358
Ilutau island
145, 146
- 334
Hu-tau-shan head -
- 95
- 266, 376-400
DCcl
river ~~
95
, current 10,
335, 336, 341, 346,
Hutung point
- 81
376
Q 1
334, 376
Hwang bay -
O 1
225, 230
Jar point
- 145
Hwang-chau
- 215
Jardinc point
- 58
j
. o i a
Jardines, Los, islands
- 320
Ilwang-ching islands 220, 227, 229, 230,
Jin island -
65
231
Joachim bank
86
Hwangkwa islet
- 100
Vin-.r
- 251
Hwang-shan hill
- 204
1-1.1 11*^H1*I
- 252
- 204
John Peak island
- 162
Hwang-shih-kang -
- 213
Jokako peak
- 92
Hwayuen-chin
- 210
11,92,98
Jona, St., island
- 418
Jones cove -
- 67
Jonquiere bay
- 405
lago, San, fort
19, 20
Joss House bay
30
la-sha island
- 205
islet
282, 285
Ibayat island - 274, 2
76, 277, 278
Jow rock
- 170
Ibugos island
274, 276
Julie island -
- 327
Ichey island
- 309
Jtilo island -
- 324
Idsu cape
340, 342
Junk channel
- 160
peninsula
- 339
creek -
51, 58
Ilary point -
- 384
harbour
- 302
lie de la Sellc
- 260
head -
- 108
Image point
289, 290
island -
- 58, 123, 146
Imperial port
- 403
passage
55,291
Inago, mount
- 313
- 290
Incog islands
140, 141
Sail rock
- 119
Ingersoll patches
305, 344
T>8
Justina shoal
- 106
1O IrtO IQyl 1QK
Ingoda river
oo
- 407
Just-in-the-Way islet,
2, 109, 184, loo,
186
Inflexible reef
- 291
Inside island
15, 77, 136
Insular point
- 186
Kabc sima -
- 353
lona, St., island
- 418
Kada
- 338
Irada mount
275, 278
Kagosima -
- 336
Isaac island -
- 30-1
Ivai-chu fu -
- 239
Island head -
225, 230
Kaikong island
18, 19
Islet point -
- 397
Kai-yik-kwan
- 61
Ismennai bay, point, and rock
373,374
Kakisaki
- 340
Isthmus island
136, 165
Kaleewan river
- 292
Iturup island
- 366
Kamchatka, S.E. coast
370-375
Ivana, port of
- 275
Kamida creek
- 361
Iwoga sima -
327, 336
Kamino sima
- 356
Iwo sima
324, 356
Kamisaki, cape
343, 344
lye sima
- 308
Kanagawa -
- 345
442
INDEX.
Page
Page
Kanlan point
- 174
Kinpai bluff
- 133
Ka-o islet
20
- 132
Kao-shan island - 227, 229,
231, 234
WMk4
132, 133
Katona sima
- 325
Kin-shan bluff
- 214
Kau-li-tau-shan
- 93
Kinsiang point and village -
79,83
Kaulun bay -
- 33
Kintang channel
- 184
33
i~lnnfl fi 1 7ft 17
173, 184,
village
- 68
186, 188
Kawatsu bay
- 343
Kin-yu islet
- 79
Ke-chau
- 212
Ki-seu island
100, 103
Kee-ow island
- 21
pagoda
102, 105
Kei island -
- 302
Kite bank -
- 188
Kellet bank -
41
Kiu-hien
- 208
island
34
Kiu Kiang -
211, 216
Ke-lung
289-291
Kiusiu island
350-357
harbour - 6,
289-291
KiuT'oan beacon tower 192, l'J3,
196, 198
- 289
Klaproth point
- 393
Kemong harbour
- 146
Klokatcheff, cape
- 415
Kem-sue islet
- 79
Knob island
- 116
Kendrick island
- 310
nr> mt - ooo
224,396
TCpVITYlH 1SlftTlHQ
302, 304
68
1VL 1 illlltl 1OJ.U11UO
Kera sima - - -
- 302
96
Kerr island -
- 116
Ko channel -
- 185
Keshen point
52, 53
Kohebi sima
- 327
Ke-sin-she island
- 77
Ko-ho island - 14, 15, 18, 19
Ke-tau - - 12,
212, 213
- 20
Ketau point - - 160,
168, 215
Koisakoi, cape
- 406
shore -
- 160
Kok-he-mung harbour - 282,
284, 285
Ketoy island
368
Kok-si-kon port - - 282,
283-285
Ketsu island
- 173
Ko-kun-to group
259, 260
- 173
Komagadaki peak -
- 361
Keui island -
- 65
Kolokozev point
- 390
Keun shan -
204, 205
Korean Archipelago 231, 236,
250, 258,
Keu-shan island
175, 178
259, 262
Kharim-kotan island
- 369
Korea, east coast
379-391
Khing-khan Ulla mountain -
- 407
gulf -
- 382
-T7-- 1 .
82
376 378
jLxiao tsz
Kiangshan hills
118, 121
250 265
Kiang-yin -
204, 205
Kosiki islands
- 355
Kibats bay -
- 356
Ko sima
- 363
Kiddisol island
171, 173
Kotian island
- 256
Kieu-hien -
- 208
Kouching point
- 169
Kien-tyau - - - *
- 152
Kowloon bay
- '33
Kieshi-wei -
- 80
- peninsula -
- 33
Kikai-sima -
- 325
- 68
Kiku-saki -
- 378
Kowlui head
- 133
King-chu fu
- 239
Kozu sima -
329, 343
Bang William isle -
- 328
Krafto island
- 412
Kin-ho island
- 176
Krusenstern channel
- 378
Kin-men island
- 150
Kudaka island
- 309
Kino channel 333,
338, 376
Ku'i island -
- 308
INDEX.
443
Page
Ku-kien-san island - - 297
Kuktui river - 419
Kulangseu island - 101, 102, 103
, channel west of 103, 104
Kume sima - - 302, 304
Kumi head - - 303
island - - 296
Eum-kwoh-shek - - 61
Kunashir island - - - 366
Kung-kung island - - 222, 223, 224
Kung-kung-shan islands - 221-224
Kuper island - - 58
Kuprianof island - - 384
Kurama island ... 304
Ku-ree-mah island - - 297
Kuril islands -266, 365-370
strait - - 370
Euro sima - - - 328
Kuro siwo or Japan stream 10, 335, 336,
341, 346
Kusa-saki island - - 354
Kusau mount - 108
pagoda 108,110
Eu-shan hill - 205
point - 203, 204, 205
Eutsino sima - 327
Etitsuosc rocks - - 357
Ewa-fau rock - 171
Ewan island - 174, 175, 179
Kwang-li - 60, 61
Ewang-si - - 61, 62
Kwei channel - - 174
Eweiling - - 61
Ewei-tau rock - 29, 30
Eweshan islands - -154,155,156
Ewimun channel - - 174
Ewing bay - 118, 122
island - 118
Ewi-si-hill - - 175
island 174,179
Kwo-kan islet - 171
Kwokeu - - 160
Eyau-chu - - 217
Eyoko island - - 309
Eypong islands - -28, 41, 44, 45
Kysi lake - ... 405
Ladrone islands 6, 14, 44, 45, 46, 311-320
Lafsami island - 21, 27, 28, 43, 44
Lai-chau bank - ... 232
Page
Lat-chau-feu - 231, 232
Lakeah island - 165
Lakeati island - 165
Lambay island - 280
Lam-hong-ho bay - 293
Lamma channels - - 31, 3 2, 41
island - 25, 3;, 32, 33, 41, 43
Lamon rocks - - 90
Lamock islands - - 83, 90, 103
Lam point - 115, 116
Lamtia island - 97, 98, 99
Lam-y it channel - - 115
island 11, 114, 115, 116, 117, 122
Lang-kiang-ki - - 209
Lang-shan crossing - - 203, 204
pagoda - - 203
Lanjett islets 155, 158
Lankeet flat - 39, 40
island - 39, 40, 47, 48, 49, 59
road - 39
spit - 40
Lan-sew bay 165, 177, 181, 183, 184, 195
island 174, 175, 179, 184, 195
Lan-shan island - - 174
Lantao channel - 27, 28, 43, 44, 45
island 27, 28, 32, 35-37, 43, 44, 47
Laoush rock
162, 184
Lapelin rocks
- 327
Laperouse strait
376, 409-412
Lark bay
- 15
Larne islet -
- 11, 135, 136
rocks
135, 328
Larva rocks
- 136
Latea island
- 171
Lau-mu ho -
244, 245
Lava islet
- 270
Lazaref cape
400, 406
*-.nl*4-
379, 382, 385-387
Lea-ming island
- 151, 152, 153
Ledge island
- 170
Lee rock
-212,213, 215
Leechin point
125, 129
Leenhwa-yang
- 164
Leeo-lu bay
11, 105
- 103, 105, 106
hill
- - - 106
Lema channel
-35,42,45, 70
25, 29-31, 32, 33, 41, 42,
45, 70
Lesseps, cape
- 404
Le-tau island
- 218
444
INDEX.
Page
Page
Leuconna island - 177, 178, 181, 182
Long harbour
67,68
Leu-cung island - 218,219,220,221
island -
- 227
Lexington reef - 305
Look-out hill
- 187
Liau-tung gulf - 230,231,237-246
Lopatka, cape
370, 416
province - - 222, 247
Losef point -
- 388
Liang-kiau - - . - 281
Losing island
-130, 133, 134
l\qv O"7n flOA OO1
Mftl4
- 133
Uay t &) i^U, o I
Liak cape - - 408
Los Jardines islands
- 320
Liancourt rocks - - 379
Lot-sin bay -
146, 147
Liau ho - 241
Lot's wife rock
- 328
Liau-tie-shan head - - 225, 246, 247
Louisa, cape
- 350
Louis, port -
392, 394
Lights, Avatcha bay - 372
Lourmel port
257, 258
, Fisher island, Pescadores - 127
Loutz rock -
- 114
Light vessel, Yang-tse kiang - 192
shoal -
- 114
Linden point - 390
Low cape
- 402
Lindsay island 255, 256, 257, 258, 311
Chikok island -
148, 149
Lindsey port - 353
island -
- 73
Lingting island 25, 26, 31, 32, 41, 43, 44
islet -
359, 364
Lin "island - 171, 172
point -
- 224, 225, 398
Linschoten islands - 326-328
Lbwenorn, cape
- 413
Lintin bar - - 38, 39, 40, 48, 49, 50
Lbwenstern, cape
- 415
island 21, 37, 38, 39, 45, 46,
Lu-chu islands
301-309
47, 48, 50
rlirrrtinrv
from Hong
, UllLLUUUb
peak - - 21, 38, 47, 48
Kong
- 303
cpit - 38 11
Luhwang, cape
-158, 159, 162
"outh Eand - 38 19
156, 158, 159, 161,
Lishan bay - - - - 140
162, 179, 183
Li-tsin ho - - 232
Luke point -
- 400
Litsitah point - 126
Luminan reefs
- 314
Little Black island - - 228
Lutai bay -
- 232
Botel-Tobago sima - 277, 279
Luzon, north coast of
- 1, 2, 3, 7, 8,
Ladrone island -14 21 2 44
268-271
n.r.V.or> Iclof _ OKI Oil
- 68
Lyeniun pass -
33 41 63
OucnioT islind - 105
Lynx rock -
110 111
Sdu pTvin islmi'l - - 144
Lyons river -
- 397
Liu-kin islands - 301-309
Lyra island -
- 261
Liungnib island - - 22, 24, 26, 44
Liu-sia kwang ... 243
Ma-aou point
- 174
Li wan island - 163, 177
Mabag island
- 271
Lloyd, port - - 322
Mabatui point
- 276
Lo-chau island - - 32, 34, 35
Mabudis island
-274, 277, 278
Lockyung river - - 109
Macao 6, 7, 14, 16, 17, 19, 20, 21, 46,
Loka island - - - - 165
55, 58
Lokaup group - 71
fnrt
- 17
; i j 71 70 75
18 19 20 270
Lokea island - 163, 176, 177
island
20,21
Loktaou islands - - 255
road 15, 17,
19,20, 27,43,44,
Loney bluff - 263
45, 46, 47
INDEX.
445
Macarira island
Macclesfield bank -
- inland 167 169
Page
17, 18, 19, '20
40, 268
170, 171, 184
76,77
- 290
260, 261
- 312
- 317
- 380
49, 50
- 312
- 262
- 37
- 368
- 369
125, 126
12G, 127
126, 127, 129
- 321
- 7,8
- 419
20
- 393
- 28
- 275
- 345
253, 258
- 5, 6
319, 320
270, 275
21
176, 177
- 321
- 416
311-320
winds - 331
158, 180, 181
- 312
254-258
- 114
- 253
- 263
- 320
31
- 202
286, 290
- 286
- 34
111, 112
256, 257
- 368
Matsou island
Matsumae, cape
Matu sima
Ma-urh point
Mauzac islet
May port
Meac-sima group
Mecoura island
Medusa creek
Meiaco-sima group -
Pago
134, 135, 137, 138
- 362
- 379
- 85
- 256
- 396
354, 355, 357
- 329
- 157
296-301
Actions - 298
- 113
11, 112, 113, 114
- 113
175, 176
- 175
- 225
- 160
- 301
169, 170, 171, 184
- 303
170, 172
- 359
- 379
74, 75, 76
- 406
- 290
97, 98
155, 156, 158
- 354
- 337
- 383
226, 227, 228, 234
226, 228, 230, 231
225, 230
- 383
- 397
- 110
121, 122, 131
,169,170,188,190,
198, 199
- 72
91, 93, 94, 157
74, 75
71, 75
- 174
- 180
- 162
- 288
121, 130-134, 290
- 133
Mace point -
Macedonian mound -
Mackau island
Madreporic hills
Magicienne bay
Magnetic head
Mah-chau island
Mahilouc hillr,
Mahon island
Mali-wan island
Makanruru island -
Makanrushi island -
Makung
Meichen island
Meih-ting island
Meih-yun island
Mei-shan group
Mai abrigo islets
Malay peninsula
Malmiusk island
Ma-lo-chau islets
Malte Brim point
Mau-rni-chau islets -
Mananion bay
Mandarin bluff
Melros point
Melville channel
Memoyab. -
Menalai rocks
Mendoza island
Menschikof, cape
Merope bay -
Mandarins cap
Mangs islands
Manila -
Man-san island
Maoutze island
Margaret islands
Maria, cape -
Mariana or Ladrones islands
Mesan group
Me sima
Miako
Mian-tsin-liang point
Miau-tau group 225,
Michaud islet
Michael Seymour port
Mid-channel reef
Middle Dog island -
Middle Ground 132, 133
Middle group
.,.,,,. (
Mariner reef
Marizo harbour
Marjoribanks harbour
Marlin Spike peak -
Marolles islet
Marryat island
Marshall islands
Mas-kong island
Mason island
Masou peninsula
Midway islands
Miles island
Millers Thumb
Min-ka
Min river - 9, 10, 11,
Mingan
Matheson point
Mathilde group
Matna island
446
INDEX.
Mingan pass
Page
133. 134
- 394
- 350
- 5, 64, GG-T1
-66, 67, 69, 70
- 341
- 333
- 345
- 355
297, 300, 301
- 357
- 229
260, 261
15
- 261
- 409
- 2,3
151, 154
16, 18, 20,22,46
- 15
- 307
- 413
- 15
- 183
- 328
- 207
- 17
- 36
- 327
- 307
- 383
- 392
113, 223, 224
174, 175
- 155
149
385, 387, 408
259, 261
271, 272, 273
- 388
140, 151
- 369
393, 394
- 265
- 392
- 360
168
- 340
Nacosi
Nadiejda cape
Page
- 307
- 362
- 355
- 308
334, 356-358
- 417
- 307
- 326
- 307
385, 388
346, 359, 364
- 359
- 12, 142, 143
- 142
142, 143
84, 85, 87, 88, 89,
90, 91
89, 91
r est end - 87
- 69
- ' - 146
- 141
137, 141
141, 142
- 51
16, 17
88, 89, 91
188, 189, 190
209,212, 214, 216
- 209
98, 99, 102, 103
302-306
- 396
392, 379, 393
- 58, 72, 73
- 307
- 27
- 165
- 330
25, 250
- 348
- 187
- 407
70,71
- 414
- 408
- 321
- 356
- 146
61
144, 145
Mino sima -
Mirs bay
point -
Misana islet
Misima Mada
Mississippi bay
Nagasaki harbour -
Nagiba, cape
Naguh
Naka sima -
Nakazuni cove
Nakhimof peninsula
Nambu, cape
peninsula
Namki islands
Mitsuna island
Mitsuse rocks
Mochang-shi islet -
Modeste island
Mong-chau island -
Montreal island
Monneron island
Monsoons in China sea
Montagu island
Montanha island 14, 15,
Namoa island 5, 9, 10,
Namoh village
Nam-pan
Nam-quan -
Montgomery group -
Mordvinof bay
Morgan point
Morrison islands
Namshan point
Nam-ye-kok point -
Nangaou bay
Nanho island
Nanking - 191, 205-
Morton point
Moto fort -
Motoe islets
Motomi, mount
Motubu
Mouchez island
Moules, Anse aux -
Mound peak
Mo-un islet
Mouse rock
Mud islet
Muravief point
Murray sound
Musa bay
Museef point
Mushroom rock
Musir islands
Musoir rock
Musquito islands
Mussel cove
Nantai "Wushan pagoda
Napha-kiang road -
Napoleon gulf
Narrow island
Natchijen mountains
Nau-tau-mun island
N.E. island -
Nee sima
Needle rocks
Neegata port
Nemesis rock
Nertchinsk -
Net island -
Neva river -
Nevelskoi, cape
New port
Nezumi island
Ngau river -
Ng-chu
Niaow island
Nab rock
Naeane point
INDEX.
447
Niegata port
Nikolaevsk ...
Nikolski island
Nimrod point
rock - I! *>6
Page
- 438
406, 408
384, 487
- 157
229, 230
154, 157
65, 131
- 123
20, 38
>, 70, IGo
64, 150
113, 150,
395
241, 242
- 152
- 179
177, 181,
186, 241
157, 172
- 138
333-346
346-350
240, 241
- 127
- 156
- 164
- 73
- 356
- 277
173,416
- 130
- 406
- 73
- 165
- 149
- 67
277,278
64, 65
222, 223
24
- 117
- 121
- 150
- 264
- 409
- 366
- 97
- 159
- 349
409, 410
- 29
N.W. Outlier patch -
Nyew-tew island
Oar channel
reef
Page
- 128
151, 153
303, 306
- 303
- 417
- 351
- 383
220, 221, 264, 404
- 285
- 114
- 348
- 90
- 347
- 326
- 337
- 358
325, 330, 342
- 297
- 218
- 337
- 366
- 419
- 419
417-420
349
- 301
- 363
- 397
211,216
- 379
- 342
- 110
- 327
- 328
- 64
- 369
- 303
- 407
- 308
- 307
- 409
- 88
- 274
- 129
- 313
- 208
110, 111
- 415
- -405
Nine-feet patch
Obman bay -
Obree island
Observation island -
Observatory island 219,
Nine islands
Ninepin group - G4, 65, 6(
. rnrlc Pi) fi'"i fift fiQ II-" 1
Ockseu islands
Oda-
Oeste rock -
Oga sima peninsula -
Ogle island -
Ohosaka bay
Oho saki
Oho sima
Ohotake island
Oie-hai-oTe harbour -
Oity lake -
Okebets, cape
Okhota river
Okhotsk
Ning-hai -
Ning-hau river
Ning island
Ning-po 9, 157, 158, 172, 176,
185,
Nin-le-heen
Nipon island, east coast
Niu-chwang port - -237,
Niu-kung bay
Niupi-shan -
Nob rock ...
Nobby reef -
Nomo, cape -
North Bashi rocks -
Oki islands
Okinawa sima
Okosiri island
Olga bay
Oliphant island
Olivutsa rocks
Omae saki -
Omega bank
Omuru rock
Onanga sima
One-foot rock
Onekotan island
Onnodake, mount -
Onon river -
Onting, port
Oon-sah
Opasnost rock
Opium point
Orange island
Organ island
Orote point
Osborn reach
Ota rock
Otmeloi, cape
Otsisi, cape
bay ...
Foreland islet
Gau rock
_...-.. . lollnrl IOR 1 f)R ffA.
Ninepin rock
White rock -
Vi*- islft
Norton rock
Nose islet ...
point -
Nossyab, cape
Nossyam, cape
Notch island
Notches islets
Noto, cape -
Notoro, cape
Nut island -
448
INDEX.
Onsha island
Page
162, 163, 184, 195
Passage islands
Pace
- 11C
Outer knoll
- 131
Pastel rock -
- 135
Min reef
- 130
Pas-yew island
185, 187, 188
passage
- 40
Pata point -
268, 269
Ow-chau islets
- 51
Patahecock islet
154, 155
Owick bay -
- 92
Patera island
17, 19
- 92
Patience bay and cape
- 413
Oyster island
- 405
Fating island
- 170
islet and rock
- 107
Patua point -
- 392
Patung island
36, 37, 43
Pauk Pi ah rock
74, 76
Pa-chau island
- 124
Paukshao bay
- 80
Pa-chung-san
- 297
point
79, 80
Padaran, cape
2, C, 7, 8
Paushan point
197, 198
Pago harbour
- 312
- 198
Pagon island
- 319
Peak island -
- 1C3
Pagoda bay -
- 89
islet - ~
187, 259, 260
hill -
86, 87
rock -
70, 71
' island
74, 88, 91, 93, 94
Peaked rock
29
~ islet -
- 108
bay
175, 178
rtvn ""
- 84
Pe-chi li gulf - 12, 13,
225,230, 231-236,
rock
- 133
241, 262
Pa*ho reach ~
- 213
"outh coist - - vsi
Pai rock
- Ifil
Pedra Areeka 20
Paicpouc bay
- 312
Pedra-mea rock
- 20
Pak-kong-ho bay -
- 293"
Pedro Blanco rock -
- 76
Pakington reach
- 214
Peel island -
321, 322
Pakleak island
22, 23, 24, 44
Pehoe island
127, 128, 129
Paksa point
- 286
Peh-tang ho
232, 24 6
Pak-tang island
- 16
Pei ho - 230, 232, 233-236, 237, 247
Pak-tsim island
28, 29, 30
Peking
242, 243
Palabi island
269, 270
Pe-kyau point
- 137
Palawan, coast of -
1,3,7,8
Pelees islands
393, 395
passage -
- 270
Pelican rock
- 164
Pallas bay -
- 403
Pelissier, cape
- 382
354, 355
Pellion island ~
- 256
Palm island
- 289
Penaud island
- 257
Pangpeto reef
- 143
Penetration Pass
- 147
Panuctan islet
- 272
Peng-chau island
- 69
Papenberg island -
- 356
Pennell point
- 181
Paramushir island -
- 369
Perier point
- 384
Paracel islands
7
Perry island
- 344
Parece Vela reef
- 311
Pescadores islands 6, 7
, 122-129,283,284
Parker island
- 157
Peschurof, cape
- 382
jsl[\ml<?
182, 355
Peshan island
146, 147
Parkyns rock
10, 84
- 179
Parry isles -
- 321
Pe-ta-oa bay
- 286
Parseval group
- 257
Peter, St., island
- 328
Pass island
119, 133
Pe-ting island
123
islands
94
Petit Thouars, cape -
383, 389
Passage island
22, 109, 110, 111
Petou point and village
- 285
INDEX.
449
Petropaulski harbour
Pheasant point
Philippine islands -
Pic de Langle
Pico channel
Pih-hu shan
Pih-ki-shan islands -
Pih-Ivuen islands
Pih-lou island
Phi pass
Pih-quan harbour -
Page
371-375
198,199
9
- 409
- 366
- 214
- 12, 143, 144
- 121
163, 167
- 141
6, 141, 142
- 141
139, 140
- 165
- 206
- 164
- 392
119, 164
71, 72, 207, 208
- 150
- 114
- 141
- 114
113,114
- 381
- 142
295, 303, 326
373, 405
- 373
- 265
- 273
- 400
- 183
110, 111
- 116
90
- 156
- 68
- 203
- 344
- 2]
- 400
- 323
- 328
122-129
126, 127 ;
123,125,126,129
280, 281 !
Popof mount
Port island -
Portsmouth breakers
Porzic point
Posiette harbour
Positions, table of -
Potoe island - 14, 15,
Pou-no islet
Poun-tin island
Pou-ti islet -
Povorotnoi", cape
Powhattan bay
rrrf
Page
- 382
67, 68
- 330
- 393
379,392,393
422-430
21,22,44,46
- 179
30
179
370, 372
- 345
- 327
- 211
266-268
51, 52
- 368
- 253
- 329
252, 253
406, 407, 408
- 298
- 161
243, 244
- 8, 41
6
1,2,3,40
21
30, 32, 42, 43
177,183, 195
- 167
143, 144
11, 111,112
05, 112
92
- 146
55, 62, 91
- 133
- 152
- 291
2C2, 264
- 105
106, 107, 108
Pih-seang islands
Pih-sha island
Pih-sin chau
Pihting islet
Pilier rock -
Pillar rock-
Pillars islet -
Poyang lake
Pratas island and reef
Pratt rock -
Prevost peak
Prince Imperial archipelago
T'
Pine Cone island
Ping point -
Pronge, cape
Providence reef
Pu ho - -
Pulo Aor
- Ohi
Ping-fong island
Pinghai
Pingyang point
Pinnacle island
Pumice-stone bay
Putoy island - 22,
Putu island 164, 165, 176,
Pwanche island
Pwan-peen island -
Pyramid point
reef
Pinnacles group
Pio Quinto islet
Pique bay -
Pirate bay -
Pisai island -
Pitew point -
Plat island -
Ploughman group -
Plover cove
point
Plymouth rocks
Pocking-han island -
Pogobi, cape
Pointed rock
Ponafidin island
Ponghou archipelago
Quadra island
Quang-ta islands
Quang-tung province
Quantao shoal
Quarry island
Quar-see-kau bay
Quelpart island
Quemoy bank
, island C, 101, 105,
- 106
103, 105
227, 230
- 404
182, 183
- 138
Quoin island
point-
Baffles island
Rag islands -
. . .
Pong-li
F F
450
INDEX.
Ragged island
Page
- 129
- 135, 137, 138
- 369
371,374
371, 374
24, 44, 296, 304
- 308
310
- 368
414
- 368
7, 11, 96, 97, 98
- 395
- 359
- 72
36
- 41
- 329
- 120
- 117
- 117, 123, 134
123, 150,302, 304,
305
- 72
11,94,95
94, 96, 98
'J4, 131, 132,134
- 409
- 225
- 355
- 351
- 262
- 367
271
414
- 276
409
- 314
- 395
- 414
160,161,183,184
- 260
355
340, 342
- 64,65,66,69
84
- 84, 242, 243
112, 113
- 410
173
- 323
Roselsko'i volcano -
Ross head -
island -
Rota island -
Rouge, cape
Round hill -
i<r1iTlr1 ^1 fift 71 7*}
Page
- 372
- 75
15
- 314
- 388
79,80
125, 131, 132,
170, 219, 221
256, 257
1G8, 170, 184
- 124
210
- 124
- 114
- 90
- 116
183,190, 191
- 29
- 294
128, 129
274,275,276
181, 182
- 232
239, 241,260
183, 192, 194,
195, 196, 197
- 360
- 91
- 382
- 348
- 343
- 406
- 405
412-417
- 413
- 416
- 411
- 401
- 407
- 36
- 60
- 59
- 59
- 336
- 343
- 411
- 313
417
Raikoke island
Rakovya harbour
Raleigh rock
Rankin point
Rasa island -
Rashau island
Ratmanof, cape
Rebuntsiriboi island
Red bay
Cliff island
cliffs -
islet
point -
Redang islands
Redfield rocks
Red rock
Yit island
Reef island -
islands, 78, 79,
islet
Rees islands
Roussin island
Roundabout island -
Rover group
Rover Knob cliff
Rowan islands
Ruff Rock -
Rugged islands
islands 180 181
Sable island
Sabatan island
Saddle group
hill -
rock -
Refun-siri -
Regents Sword
Retribution rocks
Richards island
Richardson island -
Rickord, cape
Rijutan islet
Rimnik, cape
Riposet, mount
Ri-siri
Ritidian point
River islet -
Robben island
Roberts pass
Roche Percee
island 113, 154. 196,
..... islands 181 18
Saddle-shape mountain
Sado island -
Sagami, cape
Saghalin channel
JHllf
Saghalinula
Sah-lo-wung bay and village
Sai-nam
Sai-wan passage
Rock islands
Rocky harbour
Sakara island
Sakura point
Salmon cove
Saloupa river
Salutation bay
Rogues point
Romanzov bay
Rondo islet -
Rosario island
INDEX.
451
Samarang island
Page
- 326
- 270
- 263
- 294
- 75
19,26
25,44
38, 40, 48, 49, 51,
52, 53, 56
-247, 248, 249
- 11
137, 138
70
- 320
- 320
275, 276
275, 276
312, 313
- 273
269, 270
- 152
14, 15, 17, 46
117, 128
- 73
121, 131, 132
131, 132
- 326
299, 304
395, 396
- 218
- 232
, 152, 153, 155, 157
- 150
- 144
144, 145
185, 206
248, 249
247, 248
- 248
- 147
60
- 232
- 314
- 313
282, 283
- 264
158, 162, 163, 176,
184, 195
- 169, 170, 184
- 80
-360,362,364
Saratoga spit
Sarigaun island
Sarpan island
Sasagota bay
Sau-o-bay -
_.. rr-rf
Page
344, 345
- 318
- 314
- 358
- 292
- 293
- 348
36, 37, 38
- 174
54
- 117
- 389
- 389
-112, 133, 134
- 106, 107, 108
- 134
- 134
- 376
- 417
162, 183
- 153
100, 101
- 167
- 187
109, 110, 111
109, 110, 111
- 205
- 320
54, 57
- 54
- 59
54,57
- 382
- 337
20, 21
182
-, 413
- 378
- 117
223, 224
- 146
253, 387
- 247
- 327
132, 133
- 189, 190, 191
- 187
- 307
- 189
61. 141
174
F 2
rock
Samasana island
Sam-chau inlet
Samcock island
Samoun group
Sam-pan-chau islet -
Sampson peak
Sam-sah bay
Sawa-umi bay
Saw-chau island
Saw-shan island
Saw-shee hill
Scattered Yits islets
Schlippenback, cape
Schwartz, cape
Scout rock -
Scrag point -
Sea Cat rock
Sea Dog rock
Sea of Japan
--. Olrhntslr
Samun islets
San Alessandro island
San Augustino island
Sun Carlos -
San Domingo bay -
San Luis D'Apra, port
San Pio Quinto port
San Vicente port
Sanchesan island
San-cb.au island
Sand island
patch rock
peak -
S.E. passage
Seao-Seao island
Seao-tan island
Seaou-keu islamd
Seaon-yew island
Seatoi bank
Sandon rock
Sandy island
Seau-sha island
Sebastian Lobos islands
Second bar -
Sang-kau bay
Sang-tau island
San-mun bay 151
Tiillf
Sedlovaya mountain
Sedogawa river
Senhora de Penhos church
Senhouse island
Seniavin, cape
Sentinel island
Sentry island
San-pwan pass
San shan islet
islands
San Shan tau island
San-shi islet
San-shui junction
Sanson island
Santa Crux fort
Eosa shoal
Saracen head
Seoluk islands
Seoul
Seou-ping-tao-bay -
Seriphos rock
Serrated peak
Seshan islands
Sesostris rock
Setei island -
Seven Sisters group
Sarah Galley channel
Sarah island
Saraki, cape
Sewsban islet
F
452
INDEX.
Seymour bay
Page
- 297
211,212
316-318
166, 173, 174
- 374
- 161
82, 83
- 308
- 151
- 91, 92, 242
233, 234, 236, 245
233, 235
226, 230
194, 199, 200, 201
- 148
148, 149
- 418
- 417
86
84, 85
218, 222, 236, 240
217, 218, 220,
231, 247
219, 248
60,61,62
24, 65
131, 132
- 64, 66, 131
- 134
132, 134
- 132
131, 132
192, 195, 196
- 177
152, 153
153, 154
- 152
- 31
64, 399
64, 65
64, 65
- 174
- 369
- 147
- 303
- 369
- 212
- 407
- 120
35
228, 230
Shirinki island
Shoal bay
gulf - 251,
island -
Pa*e
- 369
- 77, 88, 89
252, 253, 254-258
- 72
-242, 264, 415
- 180
- 144
- 370
- 96
60
142, 146
- 211
1, 2, 7, 8, 40, 41
tie Orphan island,
210-230
227, 228, 230
- 127
- 397
-274, 277, 278
59
- 181
79, 80
17, 58-62
- 329
- 333
17i>. 184, 205, 206
- 326
334. 340-342
- 340
- 95
- 368
- 153
1
- 3, 7
70, 71
- 287
- 76
202, 203
- 160
171, 173
90
- 254
- 340
362, 364
411
- 359
- 346
390, 391
- 93
- 390
- 390
Seypan island
Shaaon harbour
Shackoff point
Shag island -
rock -
Shah bay
Sha-ho island
Shallow bay
Sha-lul-tien banks -
Show islands
Shroud islet
Shnmshu island
Shun reef -
Shun-tak branch
Slrwin-gan river
Siah-kia-kau
Siam, gnlf of
Siau-Chu-shan, or Lit
Siau-hi-shan island -
Siau head -
Siau Wuhu bay
Siayan island
Si-chi-tau channel -
Side Saddle islets
Si-ki islet -
Si kiang or West Hiver
Sikini sima -
Sikok island
Silver island
Siraago group
Simoda harbour
Sha-mo island
Shang-hai - 4, 9, 191,
Shang rock -
Shang-ta island
Shantar, Great, island
Shantarski islands -
Shantau
Shan Tung peninsula
province
Shao King -
Sharp island
Simplicia Wreck rocks
Simusir island
Sin island -
Singapore -
Point bluff -
Shoulder
Shatmshan island -
Shei-luh channel
Sheipu
Single island
Shekpywan harbour
Shelter bay -
Sing-lo-san island -
Sinkong point
Sinta rock -
Sir James Hall group
Sirahama bay
Sirakami, cape
Siretoko, cape
Siriya saki -
Sirofama, cape
Sisdro point
Sisters islets
Sisuro peninsula
village
Sheppey island
Shestoi strait
Shetung islet
Sheudi hill -
Shiash-kotan island -
Shih-wuj'-aou
Shilka river
Shingan island
Shingshimun pass -
Ship point -
INDEX.
453
Si-ting island
Siwokubi, cape
Six -Feet rock
Skead islet -
Sloping point
Slut island -
Small bar -
Smith island
Snares islets
Society bay
So-co hill
Soimonof, cape
Soko islands
Solitary rock
Songari river
Song-men -
. point
Sonson bay
Sorrel rock
Sossan Hagno
Sossan Haya
Sotonohirase rocks -
Soudan island
Sour islet
South bank -
Page
75, 76, 77
360, 362
- 132
- 95, 180, 181 i
- 224
119, 120
54, 57
- 328
- 369
- 237
- 285
- 413
28, 36, 43
- 140
- 407
- 147
- 147
- 275
113, 114
- 315
- 315
- 357
147, 148
- 108
- 131
11,89
277, 279
- 304
54, 58
- 163
- 121
- 95, 222, 223
66, 69
328, 405
- 103
04, 76
- 118
- 299
- 193
24
- 11, 114, 115
- 341
- 322
409, 410
- 366
- 353
413
153
136, 137, 138
96, 183
225, 228
Spiteful island
Page
- 133
- 133
- 168
148, 149
92, 185
112,322
- 350
- 137
- 168
85, 86
- 159
- 328
- 326
- 152
- 419
7, 45, 46
- 328
- 276
- 398
- 373
- 321
155, 156
- 204
- 366
117, 118, 119
- 218
- 63, 64, 292
- 138
- 123
172, 173
- 5,88
- 396
- 223
- 389
37, 41
- 147
- 140
- 200
- 307
- 402
- 402
85, 86, 147, 308
- 49
90
320, 324
- 58
- 104
- 316
32, 33, 34, 35
- 341
- 419
Spithead anchorage -
Squall islands
Square island
Squat rock -
St. Andrew island -
St. Clair island
St. Francois Xavier island
St. George island
St. Jona island
St. John island
St. Peter island
Sta. Rosa mount
St. Vladimir bay
Stanitski point
Stapleton island
Starboard Jack rock
Starling island
Staten island
Station island
Staunton island
Steep island
cape of Formosa
Steeple island
Steward rock
Stewarts house
Stewart, port
Sticknp rock
Stolovaya mount
Stone-cutters island -
Stragglers islets
Strawstrack islets
Su-chau creek
Suco island -
Suffren bay -
Chukea island
.^, aU
cropc 3 oa
reef -
Yit island
Southampton rock -
Southern head
Soya, cape -
Spanberg island
Spek strait -
Spenberg mount
Sphinx rock
Spider island
Spire islet -
Spit point
Sugar Loaf island - 73,
Sui-chan island
Sul rock
Sulphur islands
Sungseu bay
Sunharom -
Sun-kong island
Supply rock
Surface currents
454
INDEX.
Page
Page
Susaki, bay -
- 346
Ta'i pin-san island -
297, 298
- 346
Tai-ta-mi channel -
25, 29, 30, 44
- 340
30
Susquehanna bay
- 345
Tai-tzu-chi islet
i
- 209
Suwa sima -
- 326
Tai-wan fu -
283, 284, 285
Suwo Nada -
333, 376
Tai-wan island
279-296
*~- - SC<1
- 333
Tajo river -
- 269
Swatau
86
Ta-kan island
163, 177
Sybille bay -
- 399
Taka sima -
- 354
head
- 403
Ta-kau
- 281
Sylock island
18, 19
Ta-kau-kon, port of -
281, 282
islet
- 26
Take sima -
- 327
Symplegades island -
- 355
Takeu island
169, 170, 171
Tak-hien -
- 62
Takin island
229, 230, 231
Taking island
- 309
Table chain -
252, 257
Tako sima -
- 379
hill
- 305
Ta-lien-hwan bay -
247 248 249
65, 125
Taluk island
146 147
64, 65
Talung island
-187, 188, 189
255, 256
Tamanu -
- 301
Tablet island
125, 126
Ta-maou island
- 167
Tabu sima -
- 347
Tamchau hills
- 59
T 1< r, iclon/1
- 176
nr.r.nnn.n
Kg
itl-CIlLIl ISlclIH-L
Ta-ching point
- 168
Tam-kan island
u j
29, 30, 45
Ta Chfrshan island -
227, 229
Tam-sui harbour
286, 288
Tao isld-nrltt - 1 4O
141, 142
285
J. <IC iDldiiUo i *">
Tae-pan point
99, 103
Tam-tu island
- 5, 63, 64, 70
- 100
Tan point
- 118
Tae-pih islands
- 143
rocks -
- 118
Tae-shan channel -
178, 179
Tanega sima
- 327
island 175, 177, 179, 180, 181, 195
Tang-fau island
- 163
Tae-tan island - 9 9, 1 00, 1 1 ,
103, 105
Tang rocks -
16
Taewang rock
16
Tang-tu
- 207
Tafou island
- 151
Tanto-shan island -
- 150
151
Tanue bay -
- 142
Tagau point
96
142
Tago bay -
- 339
Tao Kwang mount -
- 389
Taheen rock
110, 111
Tao-sao islet
- 100
Ta Ili-shan island - 225, 227,
228, 230
Taotau
- 169
Tahkut island
- 109
Taou-hwa island
162, 163
Tai-chau
149
Ta-ou island
- 146
bay
149
Taou-sau-mun channel
- 161
' islands
- 148
Ta-outse harbour
6, 172, 185
149
1 72
Tai-cho ho -
243
Taow-pung island -
aim
- 147
Tai-lung channel
- 59
59
Taping island
172, 185
1 8*1
59 Tarara islet
X Oi/
297, 300, 301
Tai-ping
- 208 Tareinski harbour -
- 371
i - pagoda
- 207
Tarofofo harbour
- 312
INDEX.
455
Tarofofo river
Tartary, coast of -
friilf nf
Page
- 312
- 266
400 406
Three Gates, or Samoi
island
Page
in group - 25
124, 129
- 193
- 328
- 37
93, 94
- 414
- 295
-8, 69
- 85
- 41
- 234
233-236
2, 53, 54, 56, 57, 59
- 53
- 50
- 187
- 381
166, 169, 170, 171
11, 136, 137, 138
- 137
12, 165, 171, 177,
183, 185, 186
11,98
- 315
155, 156
- 133
152
- 218
- - 324
- 326
228, 229, 230, 231,
234
- 281
- 68
- 68
53, 56
109, 111, 112
22, 23, 44
1, 2, 3, 6, 7, 40
37,38
37,49
84
83,84
79, 80, 81
- 94
, 93, 94, 96, 98, 290
121, 122, 131, 134
164, 165, 195
- 133
93, 94
400, 406
- 234
251,256
- 218
42, 63
- 63
63
110,111
- 127
- 358
- 180
- 153
- 367
- 167
- 5,41
- 187
- 183
17!, 184
407
163
18
- 217
- 208
167
185
- 211
17
- 230
227, 228
225, 230
- 132
- "623
- 224
231, 233
224, 225
- 230
91
120, 121
- 286
70,71
107, 108
- 206
- 175
- 259
- 90
11
- 65
65,66
Ta-san ho -
Tafi-de-Foin islet
Ta-shih-tau harbour
Tathong channel
Throat gates
Thunder head
Tiara mount
Ti-a-usu island
Tide cove -
Tatoi island - 109,
Tatsang island
Tatsupi eaki
Tau-tau point
Tau-tew point
Tavano, port
Tawu island
Taya islands
Ta-yew
Tayung island
Tea island - 167, 168, 169,
Tebakh, cape
Teen islet -
Tegnell
Teih-mei-heen or Black ink city
Teih-kiang -
Teijo island
Tein-tung -
Tei-tzuchi islet
Tei-yat-kok
Temple bay
Tien-pak island
Tien-tsin
ho
Tiger island 48, 5
Tigers claw -
- Tail rock
Tikmenef point
Ting-hai
Tingtae bay
Tinian island
Tinker rock
Tintao
Tinwan island
Toa-sik-tau harbour
Tok sima -
Tokara sima
To-ki island 226, 227,
Tollatock river
Tolo channel
harbour
Tomb point
Tongbu
Tong-ho island
Tong King, Gulf of -
Tong-ku harbour
point 130 131 13
Ten-fathom hole
Teng-chau -
.... . fu 5 >7
.
Ternate rock
Tessara islands
Teukcham port and village -
Teyih point
Thalia bank
Theodolite point
Thornton island
Thistle island
Three Chimney bluff
Tong-lae
Tongmi point
Tongsang basin
Tong-sha island
Tongting islet
Tongue shoal
Tongyung -
456
INDEX.
Tonin, cape
Toriwi saki
To sima
Tortoise head
Page
- 413
- 359
- 330
29
- 128
- 409
- 313
- 314
- 41
146, 147
168, 469, 184
167, 168, 169, 184,
186
- 119
53, 56
- 56
66, 139
- 343
- 157
73, 159
49, 50
131
- 264
- 117
- 185
- 386
63, 64
135, 328
- 73, 75, 152
- 183
- 118
- 403
167, 168, 170, 171
- 163
- 268
175, 176
- 207
73, 74, 75
142
- 206
- 380
190
143, 144
185, 187, 188, 190
124
- 78
78
186
- 188
139
- 172
Tsl mi wan island -
Tsincoe island
Tsing-hing river
Tsingluy Tau
Tsing-seu island
Tsiuka, cape
Tsugar cape
Page
28, 29
74, 75
- 390
- 170
99, 100, 103
361, 362, 364
358, 364
QKQ ae 77fi
Totomo- siri island -
Tougouene point
Toumon bay
Touron, cape
Towan island
Tower Hill channel -
, , inland 1
i Yedo - 346
- 362
- 355
191, 202
- 378
- 378
- 403
390, 391
- 170
- 165
82, 83
149, 150, 151
- 36
- 157
79, 80
234, 235
- 210
- 210
63
- 153
143, 144
194, 196, 197
135
76, 77
11, 136
70, 71
70, 71, 72, 76
118, 121, 122
- 143
81
- 304
338, 339
72, 73, 151
- 302
- 52
39, 40, 50, 56
53
168, 185, 186
35-37
- 35
24, 26, 44
26
34, 35, C3
Tsuki point -
Tsukurase islands -
Tsung-ming island -
Tsus sima -
Tower rock
Towling flat
Tullo island
Tumen river
Tung islet -
Tung kiang
Tungao road and village
Tungchuh island
Tung-chung bay and village
Tung-ju
Tung-ki islet
Tunk-ku
Tung liu
Town island
Treaty point
Treble islands
Tree-a-top island -
Tree island -
Triangle head
Triangle-yit island -
Triangles islands
Trifanof point
Trio islets -
rocks -
Triple island
Tripoint island
Trite island
Tronson point
Trmuball island -
Trunk point
Truro shoal
Tsae island -
Tsai-shih-ki
Tsang-chau island -
Tsang islets
Tsau-hia island
Tsau-liang-hai harbour
Tseenshan -
Tseigh islands
Tse le island
Tsiang island
Tsiech point
Tsieching -
Tsie-kie river
Tsien-taug estuary -
Tsih-sing group
Tsih-tze island
Tung lung island
Tungmum island
Tungpwan island
Tungsha banks 192, 193,
Tung-ting island
Tung-ying island - .
Tuni-ang group
island - 69,
Turnabout island
Turret island
Turtle rock
Tu sima
Tutomi gulf
Twins islets
Twkaschi island
Ty-cock-tau fort
Ty-fu island
Tygosan island
Ty-ho island
Tylo island -
Tylock islet
Tylong head
INDEX.
457
Ty-lou island
Typa anchorage - 14, 17,
r island
Typhoon harbours -
Typhoons - - - 3-
Page
14
18, 19, 20
18, 19, 20
- 5,6
5, 21, 271
- 332
3-5, 45
301, 304
72
69, 75
72, 73, 75
- 5,78
76, 78
34, 35, 42
34, 35
34
34, 35
- 302
- 213
340, 341
- 355
- 313
- 313
- 285
- 151
- 381
- 320
- 343
- 218
37, 38
- 367
- 390
- 368
- '363
- 407
- '330
- 398
- 336
- 340
- 117
- 117
116, 117
- 380
277, 279
, 183, 184
161, 162
- 161
, 249, 397
- 33
Victoria town
Video island
Village bay
Villeuchinski mount
Vincennes bay
Vincente island
Virginie mount
Page
33
165, 177, 178, 195
-121, 221, 223
- 372
- 325
269, 275
- 395
- 385
- 415
- 385
- 133
- 398
- 418
- 365
- 321,326, 327
79, 180, 183, 190,
191, 320
330, 342
- 367
- 282
- 207
- 169
167, 169
33, 34, 35
- 256
- 321
- 366
142, 145
- 145
144, 145
- 153
- 137
50, 52, 53, 56, 57
52
- 57
212
- 120
- 213
62
171, 172
26, 27
15, 17
- 58, 102, 104
- 379
- 345
- 219,220. 222
220, 221,222,223
201, 202
- 248
- 10
G G
Typung
h'\v
Virst, cape -
Vishnevski island -
Vixen spit -
Vladimir, St., bay -
Vneshni, cape
Volcano bay
Ty-sami inlet
Tytam bay -
Vries island
Tzee islands
Tzko-kang - - -
Ucona rocks
Udsi sima -
Umata bay -
Vuyloy shoal
Wade island
Wae-wu channel
Ung lo hill -
Ung-shan islands
Unkofsky bay
Uraccas islands
Uraga channel
Urh Tao island
Urmston bay
Urup island - ,
Urusof point
Ushishir islands - f
U sima -
Usuri river -
Utoma island
Vachofski peninsula
Van Diemen strait -
Vandalia bluff
Vaugan pagoda
Wag-Ian island
\Yai-ian-do island -
Walker bay
Walvis islands
Wan-chu
river
Wangchi island
Wanki bay -
Wan-tong islands 49,
Ward reach
Warning rocks
Washington reach -
Watchful sand
Wateo island
Water island
AVatson island
Waywoda rock
Webster island
Wei-hai-wei
Vashon, cape
Vele-Rete rocks
Vernon channel 158, 161, 162
West Blonde channel
Entry point
hill
Victoria bay - 33, 248
[a]
458
INDEX.
West peak -
Page
- 106
- 284
17,58-62
- 189
- 214
- 26
- 81
- 281
76, 392
,18,54,55,58
54, 57, 58
54, 55, 58
217-225
- 164,175,176
- 217
- 155
- 133
- 395
- 390
122, 130, 131,
134, 135
133
- 68
- 116,117,121
t9, 50, 89, 108,
221
, 107, 109, 111
208, 209
- 396
- 59
351
- 395
351
- 331
- 236
- 401
- 334
- 370
- 331
- 376
- 420
- 200
- 343
132, 134
- 1^1,132,134
- 132
- 114
- 164
- 132
37,41
- 22
Wood hill
Page
303, 305
- 306
59
- 354
- 121. 130,132
- 179
- 99
- 214
- 213
61,62
61, 62
- 212
207, 208
- 207
- 324
14
- 99
194, 195, 198, 199,
216
- 194
194, 198, 201, 202
- 197
201-216
- 272
lin - - 407
- 302
- 304
- 327
274, 277
- 243
213
- 214
- 171
- 164
191, 192
. 12, 177, 181, 190,
191-216, 217
29, 30, 31
30
29,30
343-345
328-332
- .324
- 217
O9^ 9^1 9J.P, 9^n
river -
Stork islet
Tiger hill
Water island -
White stone
Whale-back hill
Whale rocks
Whampoa channel - 17
pagoda
Woodcock rock
Wo sima
Woufou island
Wou-hou creek
Wu-an island
Wuchang fu
Wu-chang-hien
Wu-chu fu -
Wu-chu
Wuhiutsun -
Wu-hu
Whang-hai or Yellow sea
Whang head
Whang ho or Yellow river
Whelps islets
White bluff -
Cliff bay
Wukido island
Wung Cum island -
Wu-seu island
Wusung 191, 193,
Cliff? island
river 191,
spit
head -
Wusung to Han-kau
Wyllie rocks
Yablonoi Krebit mount*
Yakai island
Yakimu, cape
Yakuno sima
Y'Ami island
Yangho
Yang-ki
Yanglo
rock 37 38 39 41 '
Wild Boar reach
Wilder bay -
Wilson island
Winchester mount -
Winds, Bonin islands
_ Gulf of Liau tun
Yangsi islet
Yang-tse cape
Yang-tse kiang - 9
Yat-moun channel -
Ye-chau channel
Tartarv
Lu-chu island^
Okhotsk
Yedo bay
Wodawara bay
Woga creek
Yeirabu sima
Yellow river
Wokeu islands
Wolf bay -
Wolverine rock
Won-chu-cliau island -
Wong-mou island
80,81
90
- 221
- 20G
- 327
Yeng-rock -
Yen-tai
Yen-tse-ki -
Yerabu sima
INDEX.
459
Yer-ra-bn island
Yesan, cape -
Yetomo, cape
Yew islands
Yey-van bay
Yezo island -
strait -
Yih bluff -
Yih-pan island
Yin-gar island
Yits
Yki island -
Ykima island
Y-ki-mah island
Ykitsk island
Ynarahan -
bay
Yoko sima -
Yokuhama bay
Page
- 297
Yori sima -
- 360
Young, cape
- 365
Younoi head
185, 187
Yuet-shing-reach
- 147
Yung-hing bay
333, 365, 410
366
Yung islet -
- 63
125
Yungning islet
- 177
Yun-kai-tau rock
114, 117
351, 352
Yntsi sima -
298, 299
Yuyao branch
- 297
352, 353
- 312
Zamami island
- 312
Zam-chau -
- 326
Zealandia breakers -
343, 34o
Zelandia fort
Page
- 324
- 380
- 133
62
382, 384
- 163
-188, 190, 195
- 108
60
59, 60
- 348
- 186
- 302
18
- 318
281-285
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