THOMAS JEFFERSON Third President of the Unjtecl States Clje ^Louisiana llurcJwse AS IT WAS, AND AS IT IS BY A. E. WINSHIP AND ROBERT W. WALLACE, A.M. *£-C A. FLANAGAN COMPANY CHICAGO NEW YORK e' i3 - COPYRIGHT, 1903 BY A. FLANAGAN COMPANY TYPOGRAPHY BY MAUSH, AITKEN & CURTIS COMPANY CHICAGO TO ALL WHO BY THEIR INDUSTRY, THRIFT, AND INTEGRITY HAVE CONTRIBUTED TO THE MARVELOUS DEVELOPMENT OF THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE THIS VOLUME IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED 238826 CONTENTS PART I CHAPTER I. The Early Owners of Louisiana II. Under the Spanish Flag . III. Louisiana in Poetry . IV. Fear of the French Occupation V. President Jefferson's Anxiety . VI. Napoleon in Straits .... VII. A Message from Napoleon's Bathtub VIII. The Price of the Territory IX. Spain's Opposition to the Purchase. X. President Jefferson's Quandary XI. Senatorial Objections and Fears XII. Louisiana Knocks for Admission XIII. Louisiana Increases Her Population XIV. Aaron Burr and Louisiana XV. Josiah Quincy's Threats of Secession XVI. The Battle of New Orleans . PAGE 7 12 17 21 24 28 32 36 41 44 48 53 57 61 65 7o PART II XVII. Some Statistics of the Purchase . 77 XVIII. Louisiana . 80 XIX. Missouri . . . 87 XX. Arkansas . 94 XXI. Iowa . 99 XXII. Minnesota . 105 XXIII. KANsas . no XXIV. Nebraska . 117 CONTENTS CHAPTER j, AGE XXV. Colorado I2 - XXVI. North Dakota . I30 XXVII. South Dakota I3 5 XXVIII. Montana I42 XXIX. Wyoming 14 3 XXX. Indian Territory. . . . m .155 XXXI. Oklahoma ....... 160 XXXII. Figures that Refuse to be Overlooked. . 164 XXXIII. Plans for the Centennial Celebration . .167 XXXIV. Dedicatory Ceremonies . . . I72 XXXV. What a Century Has Wrought . . .176 PREFACE COME events cannot be fully measured at the ^^ time of their occurrence. It requires decades, even centuries, to disclose their full sig- nificance. Standing at the primal springs of a stream, one can but imperfectly judge what the stream may become before it shall meet and mingle with the sea. Little did either France or the United States dream, on that eventful last day of April, 1803, of all that lay in the sale by the one, and the purchase by the other, of the vast and unknown territory called "Louisiana. " But at the distance of a century one is able to gauge somewhat the event that at one bold business stroke doubled the area of the young republic; and made possi- ble the founding of a dozen great and masterful states. Next to the winning of our national independence, the purchase of Louisiana had perhaps the largest influence in the development of our country. As the centennial of this important event approaches, its romantic story will interest, if not fascinate, sturdy and studious patriots the 3 4 IIvEFACE country over. And it is with the faith that the story is worth narrating, and that the recital of it will be welcome to many, that the following pages are respectfully presented to the American people by The Authors. Boston, Mass., 1903. PART I 30 3t Wm The Louisiana Purchase AS IT WAS AND AS IT IS I THE EARLY OWNERS OF LOUISIANA THE first white men to see the country about the mouth of the Mississippi were prob- ably Alvarez de Pineda and his companions, who spent six weeks there in 15 19. Ten years later, De Narvaez paid the region a hasty visit. But the real merit of discovery belongs to Fernando de Soto, whom the Emperor Charles V. had appointed Governor of Cuba and Florida. In 1538 De Soto set sail from Spain with a company of six hundred men, to explore and settle the gulf section of the Western World. He was chiefly in quest of wealth, and his explorations led him through what is now Florida, Georgia, Alabama, and Mississippi. With his companions he reached the Missis- sippi River early in 1541, and spent the summer in ascending the mighty stream. His camp for the winter was beside the beautiful Washita, Returning south along the Mississippi, in the flowery spring of 1542, De SptQ died, and, with a 7 8 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE prayer, his followers tenderly committed his body to the waters he had discovered. For more than a century little was done to follow up De Soto's discovery. Europe was busy with affairs at home. Yet intrepid French voyageurs — whose praises have been so ably DE SOTO DISCOVERING THE MISSISSIPPI sung by Parkman — were gradually finding their way along the great continental streams in the far North. One of the most adventurous of these pioneers was Robert Cavelier de la Salle. He made his way from the wilds about the Great Lakes, along the Illinois River, and down the muddy current THE EARLY OWNERS OF LOUISIANA g of the Mississippi to its outlet in the Gulf. And in 1682 he gave to the vast but undefined region lying west of the river the name "Louisiana," in honor of his sovereign, Louis the Grand. Before the American Colonies gained their independence, the North American continent was in the possession of three of the most pow- erful nations of Europe. England controlled the Atlantic seaboard from Maine to northern Florida, with a large unknown "Hinterland" stretching back to the Mississippi. The region belonging to Spain (exclusive of Florida) lay along the Pacific, from Panama to northern California, reaching far inland from that turbu- lent ocean. Between the Mississippi and the Spanish strip, and in the far North — in what is now known as Canada — lay the possessions of France. In 1698 Louis XIV. fitted out an expedition to colonize Louisiana, with D'Iberville in com- mand. The party arrived at the mouth of the Mississippi in 1699, a fort was built, and a colony established. Between this new post and the French colonies in the North desultory commu- nications were maintained. In 1 717 Jean Baptiste de Bienville selected the present site of New Orleans for a commercial settlement. He sent his chief engineer, with a force of eighty convicts, to lay out a town, to be named Nouvelle Orleans, in honor of the French duke. He also planned the laying out of a great military square, to be called "La Place IO THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE d'Armes." This is known to-day as "Jackson Square." In the center of this plaza rose a tall pole, from which there proudly floated the flag of Bourbon France— a white flag with three golden fleurs-de-lis conspicuous on its folds. In 1 718, under the guidance of John Law, a financial adventurer, France adopted a wild-cat currency scheme to replenish her empty treasury. The famous "Joint Stock Mississippi Company" was organized, with Louisiana and all its unknown, and therefore marvelous, resources as security. The shares were eagerly taken, and for a time the financial fever ran high. The wildest excesses of stock-jobbing and gambling were indulged in. But early in 1720 the bubble burst, and France settled back into a bankruptcy far worse than that which she had sought to relieve. Louisiana had well-nigh ruined her. By the middle of the eighteenth century it became apparent that the question of their American possessions could be settled between France and England only by the sword. In 1756 the savage Seven Years' War began. The domination of America was the chief issue. But it was destined that France should not have permanent sovereignty on this continent, Most bravely did her soldiers dare and die in defense of her interests, but the Gaul was finally compelled to yield to the Saxon. The fall of Louisburg in 1758, and Montcalm's defeat on the Plains of Abraham in 1759, were premonitions of THE EARLY OWNERS OF LOUISIANA II how the struggle would end. Pitt was proving himself more than a match for Madame de Pom- padour. In 1763 the "Peace of Paris" was signed, by which England secured the whole of Canada, and extended her borders to the Mississippi. The treaty was so humiliating to France that it was called £ Honteuse — "The Shameful." And then, in a moment of disgust with her American experiences, she determined upon a complete abandonment of her possessions on this conti- nent, and ceded the territory of Louisiana to Spain. II UNDER THE SPANISH FLAG THE cession of Louisiana to Spain occurred in 1763. But it was not until 1765 that Spain took formal possession of the territory. Ulloa was the first Castilian governor, having been transferred from Havana to New Orleans. He seems to have been as haughty as the aver- age Spanish official of that period. But he had to face serious difficulties on his assumption of office. New Orleans had a large element of French colonists and Creoles who hotly resented being turned over to the sovereignty of Spain, "Why should one king hand us over to another king without our consent?'' was the pertinent question they asked Ulloa. It took the governor four years to overcome the scruples of the colonists sufficiently for them to allow thfe hoisting of the Spanish flag in the Place d'Armes. It was on August 18, 1769, that the flag was unfurled, and it floated proudly over the territory for the next thirty years. But there were frequent outbreaks against Ulloa's administration, and at last the French clement succeeded in driving him away. For this rebellious act, however, they suffered sorely, when afterward the Spanish admiral with a large punitive force reached New Orleans. Some of UNDER THE SPANISH FLAG 13 the ringleaders were hanged, others imprisoned or banished. The Acadian and the Creole had to submit to the Castilian. Little was done during the Spanish occupancy toward developing the territory. Few explora- tions were made, except by the hunters and trappers. The Spanish officials contented them- selves with a gay life in New Orleans. Louisiana continued much the same unknown land that it had been under the French regime. Not long after the American Colonies had secured their independence, venturesome settlers pushed back from the Atlantic Coast to the Ohio and the Mississippi. Naturally, they desired the free passage of the great water- courses for travel and for trade. In 1795 a treaty was concluded between Spain and the United States, allowing the unrestricted use of the Mississippi to American shipping, and the establishment of a deposite at New Orleans, at which American goods were to be received for sale, or for further shipment. But, despite the treaty, the Spanish intendant issued a proclamation placing such restrictions on the river traffic and the deposite as virtually to annul the treaty terms. When these restric- tions were enforced, the United States naturally was incensed, and the demand was made that Spain should live up to her agreement. In jus- tice to Spain, however, it should be said that the intendant, and not the home government, was responsible for the galling restrictions. H THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE The American settlers along the Mississippi grew more and more sensitive over the situation. JAMES MADISON Secretary of State from 1801 to 1808 Alluding to their restiveness, Madison — then Sec- retary of State — wrote: 'The Mississippi to UNDER THE SPANISH FLAG IS them is everything. It is the Hudson, the Dela- ware, the Potomac, and all the navigable rivers of the Atlantic states formed into one stream/' He insisted on the rights of the United States as specified by treaty, and warmly protested against any infringement upon them. The situation was certainly threatening, when, unexpectedly, the affairs of Louisiana took an entirely new turn. Napoleon was now in power in France, and his star in the ascendant. He was busy with his schemes for reconstructing Europe. In 1800 Charles IV. was King of Spain, but his wife — Maria Louisa of Parma — was the power behind his throne. Napoleon promised the Spanish queen to interfere in behalf of her brother the Duke of Parma, and make him King of Tuscany. As an offering of gratitude to Napoleon for his interest in her brother's fortunes, Maria Louisa determined to cede Louisiana back to France. A secret treaty was signed at San Ilde- fonso on October 1, 1800, in the presence of Napoleon's brother Lucien Bonaparte, whereby Spain transferred the territory to France, and engaged to aid F ranee in all her wars. Laussat was sent out to Louisiana as the French governor; and on the last day of November, in New Orleans, he was given the keys by Salcedo, the Spanish intendant. All the city was out to witness the transfer of authority. Windows, housetops, and the Place d'Armes, l6 , THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE were filled with people in holiday dress, and jubilant over the change. The flag of Spain was lowered with dignity from the mast in the square, and the tricolor of France was run up amid salvos of artillery. Louisiana once more belonged to France. Ill LOUISIANA IN POETRY IN his charming epic "Evangeline" Longfel- low narrates the sad story of the expulsion of the Acadians, with its pathetic sequel. The Acadians were banished in 1755. In the confusion of the embarkation, Evange- line and Gabriel, her lover, were separated. The poet does not tell us where Evangeline was taken, but the inference is that her new home was somewhere in the region of the Great Lakes. Evangeline continued to make solicitous inquiries about Gabriel. And these were some of the tidings she gleaned: "Gabriel Lajeunesse!" they said; "O yes! we have seen him. He was with Basil the blacksmith, and both have gone to the prairies; Coureurs-des-Bois are they, and famous hunters and trappers." "Gabriel Lajeunesse!" said others; "O yes! we have seen him. He is a voyageur in the lowlands of Louisiana." Relying on this information, Evangeline sets out in quest of Gabriel. She is accompanied by her priest and friend, Father Felician. Their boat descends 17 1 8 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE Past the Ohio shore, and past the mouth of the Wa- bash, Into the golden stream of the broad and swift Missis- sippi. Longfellow's description of the region through which they pass is intensely realistic. It is not surpassed in poetic literature. He tells of the "wilderness sombre with forests," of the "maze of sluggish and devious waters/' of the "whoop of the crane, and the roar of the grim alli- gator." Then, as the voyagers get farther south, he tells of "the columns of cypress and cedar," of "the groves of orange and citron," of "the odorous breath of magnolia blossoms," and of "the floods of delirious music" of the mocking- bird. Father Felician is made to describe the region in glowing language: L/ "Beautiful is the land, with its prairies and forests of fruit-trees; Under the feet a garden of flowers, and the bluest of heavens Bending above, and resting its dome on the walls of the forest. They who dwell there have named it the Eden of Louisiana, " One day, while Evangeline and her compan- ions were resting upon the shore, a boat passed them, without their knowledge: Northward its prow was Wrned, to the land of the bison and beaver. LOUISIANA IN POETRY IQ At the helm sat a youth, with countenance thoughtful and careworn. * * * Gabriel was it, who, weary with waiting, unhappy and restless, Sought in the Western wilds oblivion of self and of sorrow. Thus, each quite unconscious of the other s presence, the lovers pass and separate, Evange- line continuing on her way down the river. Here, in the beautiful Southland, she finds Basil, Gabriel's father, with broad and brown face "under the Spanish sombrero." He surprises them with his marvelous tales of the soil and the climate, and of the prairies with numberless herds, and where the grass grows "more in a single night than a whole Canadian summer." Basil tells Evangeline that Gabriel has but just started north with a company of trappers, and promises to set out with her at once to overtake the young man. Sketching the journey of Basil and Evangeline, the poet gives this graphic picture of the prairies in the heart of Louisiana: Spreading between these streams are the wondrous/ beautiful prairies, Billowy bays of grass ever rolling in shadow and sun- shine, Bright with luxuriant clusters of roses and purple amorphas. Over them wandered the buffalo herds, and the elk and the roebuck; Over them wandered the wolves, and herds of riderless horses; 20 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE Over them wander the scattered tribes of Ishmael's children, Staining the desert with blood. Considerably more than one-third of the poem is given to depicting Louisiana as it was in the days of French and Spanish occupancy; when the larger part of the vast tract was as yet unknown, except to the adventurous hunter and trapper — the advance agent of a civilization over whose achievements men glory to-day. IV FEAR OF THE FRENCH OCCUPATION WHEN the news of the Treaty of Ildefonso, by which Louisiana was ceded back to France, reached^America, there arose at oncelf" strong suspicion oTthe t rehch occupation^irTtKeT new republic. The matter was very widely and very w r armly discussed by the American Govern- ment and people, and no little anxiety was felt as to what the future might develop. At first sight it seems strange that the United States should have felt any distrust of what France might do in the administration of the receded territory. Twenty-five years before France had proved herself a sincere friend and ally of the American people in their struggle against British domination. Lafayette and his army had won all American hearts. The French general had been wined and dined everywhere. Arches had been built for his carriage to pass under. So sincere was the admiration for him that it has survived, undiminished and untarnished, to the present hour. What, then, caused the sudden revulsion of American feeling toward France? France her- self was strangely altered in the quarter of a century since Washington and Lafayette had fought for colonial liberties side by side. _At the time the Treaty of Ildefonso was signed, France ''was controlled by daring and restless spirits that 22 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE had planned and perfected the Revolution. The Bourbon king and queen had been guillotined. New hands held the reins of government. The Little Corsican was beginning his brilliant career as the agent of the French Directory. JjL was not the France of the Bourbons, but a new and revolutionary France into whose hands WASHINGTON AND LAFAYETTE AT MOUNT VERNON the affairs of Louisiana had fallen. The tricolor had supplanted the fleurs-de-lis. Then, also, the United States had already had some dealings with this new France — dealings that were by no means agreeable to American sensibilities. American envoys to Paris had been disgracefully treated by the French Directory, and had returned home smarting at the indigni- ties done them. Talleyrand endeavored to palli- FEAR OF THE FRENCH OCCUPATION 23 ate the conduct of the Directory, but it was the lamest kind of an excuse for such boorish behavior. It certainly did not make the envoys any the more amiable. Besides this, France had made numerous aggressions of a very exasperating nature upon vessels of the American navy. So gross were these aggressions that it seemed more than likely the two nations would come to war. In fact, the United States issued letters of marque against French shipping. Napoleon, however, was wise enough to see the peril in the situation. Negotiations were opened with America that resulted in a conven- tion between the two Powers relative to their respective fleets, and in the restoration of amica- ble feelings between them. This convention was signed on September 30, 1800, and was simul- taneous with Louisiana's coming again under French control. It was their recent experience with the new France, then, that led the Americans to be somewhat suspicious of what the new owners of Louisiana might do there. Whether their administration of territorial affairs would be friendly or inimical to American interests was the question that was debated in the country store and the President's council alike. ^And the mo re it was discussed, the more did it appear that the French re-occupation of Louisiana was a menace to the peace and prosperity of the American Republic. V PRESIDENT JEFFERSON S ANXIETY IT was President Jefferson's determined policy to keep the United States free from Euro- pean entanglements. But he saw that this would be impossible if a European Power should pos- sess the outlet of the Mississippi Valley. The American people were already much disturbed at the prospect, and their aversion to the occu- pation of Louisiana by France grew more pro- nounced the more they thought of New Orleans in French hands. At last, Jefferson could no longer restrain his sentiments on this matter, and in 1802 he voiced them in a remarkably able letter to Robert R. Livingston, at that time the American Minister to France. In this communication Jefferson reveals his kindly feeling toward France, allud- ing to her as "our natural friend,'' and "as one with which we never could have an occasion of difference." Most sincerely did he deprecate anything like difficulty between the two countries. But at the same time he correctly gauged the temper of the American people when he said: "Every eye in the United States is now fixed on the affairs of Louisiana. Perhaps nothing since the Revolutionary War has produced more uneasy sensations through the body of the nation." 24 PRESIDENT JEFFERSON S ANXIETY 25 He then, in strong, cogent, but temperate lan- guage, gave the reasons for the popular agita- tion: The cession of Louisiana and the Floridas by Spain to France works most sorely on the United States. ... It completely reverses all the polit- ical relations of the United Statesrarrd^vdlLform a new epoch in our political course. . . . There is on the globe one single spot, the possessor of which is ourL-aaliliaLand habit ual enem y. Jt is JNew Orleans, through which the produce o" three-eighths of our territory must pass to market, and from its fertility it will ere long yield more than half of our whole product, and contain more than half of our inhabitants. France, placing herself in that door, assumes to us the attitude of defiance. Spain might have retained it quietly for years. Her pacific dispo- sitions, her feeble state, would induce her to increase our facilities there, so that her posses- sion of the place would be hardly felt by us. And it would not be very long, perhaps, when some circumstance might arise which might make the cession of it to us the price of some- thing of more worth to her. Not so can it ever be in the hands of France; the impetuosity of her temper, the energy and restlessness of her character, placed in a point of eternal friction with us, and our character, which is high-minded, enterprising and energetic as any nation on earth, . . . render it impossible that France and the United States can long con- tinue friends, when they meet in so irritable a position. They, as well as we, must be blind if they do not see this; and we must be very improvident if we do not begin to make arrange- ments on that hypothesis. 26 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE The President then passes on to do some mild and cautious threatening, by saying that if France shall determine to maintain possession of New Orleans, it will certainly lead to an anti- French coalition of the United States and Britain — "two nations who, in conjunction, can maintain exclusive possession of the ocean." "From that moment," he continues, "we must marry ourselves to the British fleet and nation." And he ventures the prophecy that, should the United States be compelled to make such a coalition with England, New Orleans would be easily wrested from France. In closing his letter, Jefferson suggests to Liv- ingston the possibility of France ceding "the island of New Orleans and the Floridas" to the United States, and says that such an arrange- ment would remove the causes of jarring and irritation between the two republics, and would relieve the United States of the necessity of taking any steps toward making arrangements in another quarter — that is, with Britain. Jefferson's letter to Livingston was left open for the perusal of M. Dupont de Nemours, a French diplomat, in the hope that he would use his influence with his countrymen to refrain from occupying Louisiana. But in a note to Nemours the President makes use of language that shows how serious the situation was. He reminds the Frenchman that "this little event of France's possessing herself of Louisiana ... is the embryo of a tornado PRESIDENT JEFFERSON S ANXIETY 27 that will burst on the countries on both sides of the Atlantic, and involve in its effects their highest destinies." And he adds, not as a men- ace, but as a possibility — that "this measure will cost France, and perhaps not very long hence, a war which will annihilate her on the ocean." And then he asks the diplomat to "impress upon the Government of France the inevitable conse- quences of their taking possession of Louisiana," and concludes with these words: "If you can be the means of informing the wisdom of Bonaparte of all its consequences, you have deserved well of both countries." VI NAPOLEON IN STRAITS WHEN Spain retroceded Louisiana to France, it was evidently the intention of Napoleon to occupy and develop the terri- tory. He was then First Consul of France, and not without ambitions for colonial empire. It was this conviction regarding him that so greatly disquieted the American people and Govern- ment, and that led the President to write so plainly, and even so threateningly, to the French Count de Nemours. But the immediate occupation and exploitation of Louisiana were checked by Napoleon's troubles and reverses in Hayti. For a long period France had been dominant in the affairs of that island, and by the Treaty of Basel in 1795 she had acquired the title to it. Toussaint TOuverture, the leader of the black race there, was at first a loyal assistant of the French offi- cials. Under him the slaves were freed, and an attempt by Britain to capture the island was completely frustrated. But in 1801 Napoleon determined to curb the growing power of the natives, and reestablish slavery. To effect the subjugation he sent twenty-five thousand French troops under Gen- eral Leclerc. The blacks under Toussaint 28 NAPOLEON IN STRAITS 2Q retired to the mountains in the interior, and for some time maintained a desultory warfare. NAPOLEON I. By an act of unmitigated treachery Leclerc captured Toussaint, and sent him to a French 30 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE prison, where he died in 1803. His countrymen, infuriated at the loss of their leader, waged a barbarous war against the French, and finally compelled them to evacuate the island. A British squadron, happening along at the time, took eight thousand of the French troops prisoners, Napoleon had lost Hayti. But in his efforts to retain it he had been com- pelled to postpone his intentions regarding Louisiana, Quite naturally, Napoleon was furious over the loss of Hayti, and specially incensed against England, wMch— -had so effectively aided in wresting the beautiful isle of the tropics from his grasp. To humble England became now his thought by day, and dream by night — a thought and dream never absent afterward from his mind. How signally he failed in this ambi- tion, Waterloo and St. Helena graphically emphasize. In 1803 Napoleon was sorely in need of money to inaugurate his war with Britain. Whatever benefits the Revolution had brought to France — and it had certainly brought some — it had most effectually depleted the national treasury. The nobles of France, justly alarmed at the new order of things, had transferred all their porta- ble wealth to other and safer countries. Robes- pierre had been compelled to issue his famous "assignats," or fiat money; but notwithstanding his threat of the guillotine for any one who dis- credited them, the issue prQye^ & flat failure; so NAPOLEON IN STRAITS 3 1 disinclined are the people to accept dishonest money. Andjiere^ was Napoleon, with s daeffres-atmn- darUand ambitious, in his m ind, hut with nn rp . nHy 'caslTta make^hem real. It was this situation of need that led him to think favorably of the pos- sible sale of Louisiana to the Americans. Such a bargain would furnish him the first funds for war; so he said to his brother Joseph. But, in addition to th j^mQre_niercenary view oFlhe_ matter, h e_ had an ilL jdefiflretP 1 ^!?^ thajLh^-iniglilJas^^ Bntaiji JU _^s_^^ He knew, and only too well, that Britain hacf^once before beaten France on the American continent. He had heard of Acadia, of Louisburg, and of the Plains of Abraham. And Britain might be the victor again. New Orleans might have to yield to Saxon prowess, as had Louisburg and Quebec years before. It was this conjunction of affairs — Napoleon's need of ready money, and his anxiety about the retention of Louisiana — that made him open to the approaches of the American Repub- lic, and that finally reconciled him, however reluctantly, to the sale of the distant and cov- eted territory. It was not love of America so much as hatred of England that led him to sub- mit to the alienation of Louisiana. The interesting story of how and where he reached his determination to sell his American domain for spot cash must next be told. VII A MESSAGE FROM NAPOLEON S BATHTUB " Ty^ NOW merely, Lucien, that I have decided 1 V to sell Louisiana to the Americans!" This was the startling statement made by the First Consul of France to his younger brother, while disporting himself in his bath scented with Cologne water. The graphic story is narrated by Lucien Bona- parte in his MemotreSy published in Paris in 1882. The evening before the incident of the bath, Joseph Bonaparte visited his brother Lucien with a piece of news that kept them from the theater for a night. "The General wishes to alienate Louisiana," said Joseph. "Bah!" said Lucien. "Who will buy it from him?" "The Americans." "The idea! If he could wish it, the Chambers would not consent to it." "And therefore," responded Joseph, "he expects to do without their consent. That is what he replied to me." "What? He really said that to you? That is a little too much! But no, it is impossible. It is a bit of brag at your expense." "No, no," insisted Joseph; "he spoke very 32 A MESSAGE FROM NAPOLEON'S BATHTUB 33 seriously; and, what is more, he added to me that this sale would furnish him the first funds for war." The brothers parted for the night with the understanding that they would visit Napoleon early the next morning, when they hoped to dis- suade him from alienating the colony. The morning found them both at the Tuileries, just as Napoleon had entered his bath. He invited them in. The conversation reverted at once to Louisiana, the brothers endeavoring to dissuade him — Lucien quietly, Joseph more warmly — from alienating the territory, and both urging the point that "the Chambers will not give their consent to it." "Gentlemen," said Napoleon from his per- fumed bath, "think what you please about it, but give up this affair as lost, both of you; you, Lucien, on account of the sale in itself; you, Joseph, because I shall get along without the consent of anyone whomsoever; do you under- stand ?" At this, Joseph lost his temper, and, approach- ing the bathtub, replied in an angry tone: "You will do well, my dear brother, not to expose your plans to Parliamentary discussion; for I declare to you that I am the first one to place himself, if it is necessary, at the head of the opposition which cannot fail to be made to you. This vehement resolution was met by "more than Olympian bursts of laughter" from Napo- 34 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE leon, which angered Joseph still more, and led him to exclaim: "Laugh, laugh, laugh, then! None the less, I will do what I say; and, although I do not like to mount the Tribune, this time they shall see me there." Upon this Napoleon lifted himself half-way out of his bath, and said in a tone energetically serious and solemn: "You will have no need to stand forth as orator of the opposition, for I repeat to you that this discussion will not take place, for the reason that the plan which is not fortunate enough to obtain your approbation, conceived by me, nego- tiated by me, will be ratified and executed by me all alone; do you understand? by me, who snap my fingers at your opposition." By this time Joseph was close to the bathtub, his face red with anger, and heated words about to pass his lips, when Napoleon suddenly sank himself into the water, of which the tub was full, and a wave splashed Joseph from head to foot. "He had received," says Lucien, "all over him, the most copious ablution." But the perfumed flood calmed Joseph's anger, and he contented himself with letting the valet sponge and dry his clothes, the brothers mean- while regretting greatly that the valet "had remained a witness of this serious folly between such actors." This is a strange story that Lucien Bonaparte tells, but one portion of it, at least, is singularly A MESSAGE FROM NAPOLEON S BATHTUB 35 in keeping with what is known of Napoleon's character. He would sell Louisiana, we are told, without any consultation of the French Chambers. This is very much like him. Though he was only First Consul now, he was already fostering imperialistic ideas, in which the Parlia- ment of France should have only the subordi- nate and subservient place. Livingston, in a letter to Madison, gives a vivid picture of the situation. "There never was a government," he wrote, "in which less could be done by negotiation than here. There are no people, no legislators, no counsellors. One man is everything. His ministers are mere clerks, and his legislators and counsellors mere parade officers." From this point onward Napoleon's ascent, or, to speak more truly, his descent, to empire was accelerated. The die was cast; with or without the will of the Chambers, his will must be domi- nant in France. VIII THE PRICE OF THE TERRITORY WHEN Napoleon reached the decision to sell Louisiana, he very naturally desired a good round sum for it. His coming struggle with England would be costly, and Louisiana must be made to help foot the large bill. As the proposed alienation of the province was a question of State, it ought to have fallen to Talleyrand to deal with the intending pur- chasers. But Napoleon suspected his Prime Minister of having an itching palm, so he entrusted the matter to M. Marbois, his Minister of Finance, a shrewd but honorable man. It was with this astute financier that Livingston, the United States Minister to France, had to deal. The sum that Marbois first named to Living- ston was 100,000,000 francs ($20,000,000). Besides this lump sum to France, the United States was to pay the claims of the citizens of Louisiana against France. These amounted to nearly $4,000,000. Livingston declared this sum exorbitant, but would not inform Marbois what the United States would pay, until he had consulted Mr. Monroe. The fact is that Livingston knew little if any 36 THE PRICE OF THE TERRITORY 37 more about Louisiana than the Frenchman with whom he was negotiating. What he would have been entirely satisfied with was the possession of New Orleans. neiraa no desire to see his countrymen extending their residence to the west of the Father of Waters. What lay in that region of the trapper and savage was utterly unknown to him, and therefore unprized by him. And he naturally considered the Frenchman's price much too high for New Orleans and its vicinity alone. And no more did President Jefferson realize what there was in Louisiana. Maps were very incomplete in his day. The province had not yet been surveyed. Jefferson regarded it as not worth the taking or the possessing. He declared — so it is said on good authority — that it would not be inhabited for a thousand years, a prophecy as wide of the mark as any ever made. He, also, would have been content with the pos- session of New Orleans. For the remainder of the region he was unwilling to expend anything. In fact, all around the circle, the ignorance concerning Louisiana was colossal. Napoleon knew nothing abmtfc-4t^-4*er^ did Livingston or Jefferson know more. Had Napoleon dreamed of the wealth of that vast ''Hinterland," he would never have sold it for a song, as he did. And had Livingston known about it, he would have jumped at Marbois's first offer of it for a hundred million francs. In blissful ignorance of what was being bar- 38 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE gained for, the negotiations were continued, and at last the sum of 75,000,000 francs ($15,000,000) was agreed upon, and the documents of transfer were signed and sealed on April 30, 1803. The names of Livingston, Monroe, and Marbois, were in Napoleon's presence affixed to the treaty of cession. THE UNITED STATES BEFORE 1803 The three men shook hands with much cor- diality. "Gentlemen," said Livingston, "we have lived long, but this is the noblest work of our whole lives This will change vast solitudes into flourishing districts." And Napoleon is said to have remarked: "A few lines of a treaty restored to me the THE PRICE OF THE TERRITORY 39 Province of Louisiana, and repaired the fault of the French negotiator who abandoned it in seventeen sixty-three. But scarcely have I re- covered it when I must lose it again." And then, as though a passing memory of England fanned his passion, he added: THE UNITED STATES AFTER 1803 "But this I promise you: it shall cost dearer to those who oblige me to strip myself of it than to those to whom I deliver it; for I have given England by this act a rival on the high seas that will one day humble her pride!" Long years afterward it was found that the Louisiana Purchase embraced, in round num- < Pu W X IX Spain's opposition to the purchase THE documents transferring Louisiana to the United States were signed on April 30, 1803. But the formal surrender of the terri- tory did not take place until the 20th of the fol- lowing December. On that date Laussat — the French governor at New Orleans — handed over the territory to W. C. C. Claiborne and Gen. James Wilkinson, the American commissioners. The transfer was made in the old Cabildo, the Spanish Court of Justice; a building that is still standing, facing Jackson Square. There was an imposing military display, after which the tricolor of France was lowered, and the Stars and Stripes run up. The populace was deeply interested in the proceedings; but, not- withstanding the pageant, many of the people were much annoyed at Napoleon's selling them out without the slightest consultation of their wishes in the matter. But this was the Napo- leonic policy at the time: he would choose for himself, without consulting the Chambers on one side of the sea, or the people on the other. As soon as Spain learned of the sale of Louisi- ana, she indignantly protested against its cession to the American Republic. The ground of her complaint was, that by the Treaty of Ildefonso she had ceded the territory to France with the condition duly specified that if France should ever alienate the territory,, it should be ceded back to , — — 41 42 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE Jipain. She contended that Napoleon had sold the territory illegally. By her remonstrances she warned the United States not to touch Lou- isiana. The Americans, however, were not inclined to pay much heed to the Spanish protest. It was not their fault, so they reasoned, if Napoleon had been hoodwinking Spain. _ Napoleon and Spain must straighten out this tangle between themselves. The United States had bought the province in good faith, fully believing that Napo- leon had a perfect right to make the sale. If he had no such right, because of some secret com- pact with Spain, Spain must settle with him. The correspondence of the United States with the Spanish Court, conducted by James Madison, was very explicit, and almost tart. Madison sent his instructions to the United States Min- ister at Madrid, and bade him inform the Court of the absolute determination of the United States to maintain its rights in Louisiana. He also threatened Spain with a probable coalition of the United States with England, in which event "Spain would not only lose Louisiana, but also all her possessions to the west of it." "What is it that Spain dreads?" he asked. "It is presumed that she dreads the growing power of this country, and the direction of it against her possessions within its reach. Can she anni- hilate this power? No. Can she sensibly retard its growth? No. Does not common prudence, then, advise her to conciliate this Nation, and SPAIN S OPPOSITION TO THE PURCHASE 43 secure the good-will of a power that is formida- ble to her?" To guard againsLany open resistoftee-fa^rSpmn to the pe aceful— occupatioiL.~x>£ the territory, American troops were raised in Tennessee to go to New Qrleans r and insure it-agalnst attack. But Spain was too wise to make any warlike move. She had to content herself with protest- ing without any show^-oliorce. President Jefferson was determined to main- tain the validity of the purchase, as his message to Congress in 1804 abundantly proves. And Spain fortunately understood Jefferson's inten- tions, and bowed before them as gracefully as she could. She withdrew from Louisiana, and set herself to the administration of her other American possessions, which she felt were none too secure. But Spain's defea^-irudiplomaejr led her pro- foundly to distrust and dislike^Napole^n. He had not kept faith with her, she thought. Upon all this, however, America could look with con- siderable complacency. It was only another European complication, of which there were several about that time. Meanwhile, for good or for ill, she was the peaceful possessor of Louisiana, and New Orleans, the key to the province, was in her strong right hand, where it has remained now for a full century. X president jefferson's quandary WHEN Jefferson acquired by purchase the vast possessions of France beyond the Mississippi, it was considered by his friends a masterpiece of diplomacy, and was hailed with delight by the majority of the American people. Now, however, it must be paid for, and Congress alone could furnish the necessary millions. But just here was a serious difficulty. Jeffer- son had bought Louisiana without having con- sulted Congress, and without that body's express sanction. It was, according to Bryce, "the boldest step that a President of the United States had yet taken." The President is said to have known that he was exceeding his powers when he was planning the deal, but yet he made it. And now he had to submit his action to Con- gress for review. Would it accept the Presi- dential coup dUtat, or not? Fortunately for him, Congress pocketed the slight he had put upon it, and voted the money for payment. So far as this feature of the pre- carious situation was concerned, all went well. But there was another matter that gave Jeffer- son and Congress no little anxiety: Was the purchase of Louisiana constitutional, or not? The President and his Federalist friends were what was known as "Strict Constructionists" of 44 PRESIDENT JEFFERSON S QUANDARY 45 the Constitution. Whatever it decreed they felt themselves bound to abide by literally. In the heated congressional debates that fol- lowed the purchase, the Federalist party strenu- ously maintained that "even Congress had no power to acquire more territory to be formed into states of the Union." If this proposition was correct — and even Mr. Jefferson admitted it was — then the Constitution had certainly been violated by the purchase, and Louisiana could not become a part of the United States. But the province had been bought, and the treaty of cession had been signed and sealed by the high contracting parties. How to straighten out the tangle was the immediate and difficult question. Either some way out of the consti- tutional dilemma must be found, or Louisiana must go back to France, with the possibility of its becoming in time a powerful and possibly hostile state on the western border of the Ameri- can Republic. The President suggested the passing of an amendment to the Constitution, in order to validate his action. Other Federalists tried to reconstruct their former arguments against a lax construction of the Constitution; in other words, they went back on their earlier convictions. There were others, and not a few, who avowed what Bryce calls "the dangerous doctrine" that if Louisiana could be brought into the Union only by breaking down the walls of the Consti- tution, broken they must be. 46 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE After a lengthy consideration of the matter, the majority of Congress came to the conclusion that its approval was a quite sufficient ratification of a step of so transcendent importance. The majority was led to this view of the situation by the eloquent arguments of Alexander Hamilton, whose farseeing patriotism warmly defended the validity, as well as the wisdom, of the purchase. But, though Congress aided Mr. Jefferson out of the difficult situation in which he found himself, and by its vote made his act valid, it has never ceased to be a debatable question in American politics whether the purchase was constitutional, or not. Eminent men have discussed the ques- tion since it was first settled, and have reached widely different conclusions. Since the late Spanish-American War, the same question has been warmly debated by American statesmen, some of whom have main- tained that the acquisition of alien territory, such as the Philippines, finds no sanction in the Constitution, but is made in direct violation of it. Thus strangely does history repeat itself. The arguments of the Federalists at the beginning of the nineteenth century were almost exactly reproduced by some American statesmen as the twentieth century was dawning. And these arguments were answered in much the same way — that in a matter of such moment a strict construction of the Constitution must not stand in the way of national expansion. The best authorities now hold that the Con- PRESIDENT JEFFERSON S QUANDARY 47 stitution did really permit the Federal Govern- ment to acquire Louisiana, and Congress to form states out of it. Perhaps as convincing an argument as can be found is that of one of Michigan's ablest Supreme Court judges, Thomas M. Cooley, presented in a pamphlet on 'The Purchase of Louisiana," published in Indianap- olis in 1886. Judge Cooley contends that there was no vio- lation of the United States Constitution in the acquisition of Louisiana, and that there was no necessity for any amendment to that famous document to render President Jefferson's act valid. XI SENATORIAL OBJECTIONS AND FEARS ACCORDING to the Constitution, the Senate of the United States had to pass upon the treaty by which France was to cede Louisiana to the Americans. The debates on the acquisi- tion of the province by the upper house of Con- gress were both protracted and earnest. Some of the extreme Federalists, as has been seen before, took the ground that new territory could not be acquired by the republic except by a distinct violation of the Constitution. But Hamilton and his friends answered all such arguments by calling attention to the necessities, rather than to the logic, of the situation, and by appeals to patriotism; and he and they finally prevailed. — But other arguments were presented that fur- nish singularly interesting reading to the present day. One of these was by Senator White, who said: I wish not to be understood as predicting that the French will not cede to us the actual and quiet pos- session of the Territory. I hope to God they may, for possession of it we must have — I mean of New Orleans, and of such other positions on the Mississippi as may be necessary to secure to us forever the complete and uninterrupted navigation of that river. This I have 48 SENATORIAL OBJECTIONS AND FEARS 4Q ever been in favor of; I think it essential to the peace of the United States, and to the prosperity of our western country. But as to Louisiana, this new, immense, unbounded world, if it should ever be incorporated into this Union, which I have no idea can be done without altering the Constitution, I believe it will be the greatest curse that could at present befall us; it may be productive of innumerable evils, and especially of one that I fear to look upon. Gentlemen on all sides, with very few exceptions, agree that the settlement of this country will be highly injurious and dangerous to the United States. But as to what has been suggested of removing the Creeks and other nations of Indians from the eastern to the western banks of the Mississippi, and of making the fertile regions of Louisiana a howling wilderness, never to be trodden by the foot of civilized m^n, it is impracticable. ... You had as well pretend to inhibit the fish from swimming in the sea as to prevent the population of that country after its sovereignty shall become ours. To every man acquainted with the adventurous, roving, and enterprising temper of our people, and with the manner in which our western country has been settled, such an idea must be chimer- ical. The inducements will be so strong that it will be impossible to restrain our citizens from crossing the river. Louisiana must and will become settled, if we hold it, and with the very population that would otherwise occupy part of our present territory. Thus our citizens will be removed to the immense distance of two or three thousand miles from the Capital of the Union, where they will scarcely ever feel the rays of the 50 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE General Government; their affections will become alienated; they will gradually begin to view us as strangers; they will begin to form other commercial connections, and our interests will become distinct. How strangely the worthy senators anxiety — one that fairly made him shudder — over the pos- sible, if not certain, alienation of interest and affection on the part of the trans-Mississippi settlers, must read to the sturdy American patriots of Kansas, Nebraska, or Minnesota to- day ! When the senator was speaking so alarm- ingly of the "two or three thousand miles* dis- tance from the Capital of the Union," he had no dream whatsoever of the iron steed that would virtually annihilate distance; or of the sumptuous Pullman coach that would make the trip from Denver to Washington merely a pleasure jaunt. Another fear that disturbed some senatorial minds was that the people of Louisiana at the time of the transfer were foreigners, and could not possibly be transformed into loyal American citizens. It was gravely urged that these for- eigners were too ignorant to exercise the right of election with wisdom, and too turbulent to enjoy that right with safety. They were, it was said, incapable of appreciating a free constitu- tion, if it should be given them; or of feeling the deprivation, if it should be denied them. One senator was particularly exercised over this matter, and said that "the principles of these people [in Louisiana] are probably as hostile to our Government, in its true construction, as they SENATORIAL OBJECTIONS AND FEARS 5 1 can be; and the relative strength which this admission [of the province] gives to a Southern and Western interest, is contradictory to the principles of our original Union as any can be, however strongly stated.'' Little did these senators realize the marvelous assimilative powers of the American Republic, by means of which millions of foreigners would in time be made over into thrifty and loyal American citizens. Whatever problems the incoming of the foreigner might produce, he would be, in instances innumerable, a real source of strength to the land in which he should found his new home. And when, in days to come, the unity of the republic would be endangered by civil war, it would be found that the foreigner was among the most loyal and stalwart defenders of the Union. But of all this — disclosed only by his- toric developments — the senatorial mind at the beginning of the last century was oblivious. Another fear that was voiced in the Senate was that if the United States should acquire Louisiana, she would in all probability not be able to hold it against some formidable Euro- pean coalition. Senator Pickering felt confident that France and Spain would in the course of time unite their forces in retaking it. "One honorable gentleman has remarked/' he said, "that the French Republic is bound in honor not to give Spain any aid. The French Republic bound in honor! For ten or fifteen 52 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE years past we have known too well what are the honor and the justice of the Government of that Republic. Perhaps Spain may not resist at the present moment. She may wait until France gets the war with Britain off her hands. Then pretenses will be easily found to reclaim Louisi- ana; and Spain, once engaged to wrest it from us by force, will receive from France, her ally, all necessary aid." But this prophecy was fated to failure, as cer- tainly as others. Instead of France and Spain coming more closely together, they grew farther and farther apart, and within five years were in open conflict. Napoleon deposed Charles IV., and placed his brother Joseph on the Spanish throne. Thus, neither singly nor together, did France and Spain ever attempt the re-conquest of Lou- isiana. It has safely remained American terri- tory from the days of the purchase until the present, despite all senatorial timidities and prophecies. And it has witnessed in security all the mutations of European politics, and the dynastic changes of both France and Spain. XII LOUISIANA KNOCKS FOR ADMISSION THE third article of the treaty relating to the cession of Louisiana to the United States specified that "the inhabitants of the ceded territory shall be incorporated into the Union of the United States, and admitted as soon as possible, according to the principles of the Federal Constitution, to the enjoyment of all the rights, advantages, and immunities, of citizens of the United States; and in the mean- time they shall be protected in the enjoyment of their liberty, property, and the exercise of the religion they profess." In carrying out the terms of this article, Con- gress proposed to erect the country west of the Mississippi and south of the thirty-third degree into a territory of the United States, to be called the Territory of Orleans, and to estab- lish therein a territorial government. This was as far as Congress thought it wise to go at that time. But the people of Louisiana were strongly averse to the idea of a territorial government for them. They considered themselves worthy of being received into the family of States. So, in 1804, they sent a carefully-worded and respect- ful petition to Congress, urging their claims for 53 54 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE recognition as a state. This petition was the work of Edward Livingston, a recent arrival at New Orleans. The petitioners reminded Congress of the treaty engagement "to incorporate us into the Union, and admit us to all the rights, advantages, and immunities of American citizens." They alluded to a promise made them, "that you would receive us as brothers, and would hasten to extend to us a participation in those invalua- ble rights which had formed the basis of your unexampled prosperity/' The petitioners then presented their remon- strance in the following words: The inhabitants of the ceded territory are to be ' 'incorporated into the Union of the United States." A territory governed in the manner proposed may be a province of the United States, but can by no con- struction be said to be incorporated into the Union. To be incorporated into the Union must mean to form a part of it; but to every component part of the United States the Constitution has guaranteed a repub- lican form of government. But the form proposed, as we have already shown, has no one principle of repub- licanism in its composition. It is, therefore, not a compliance with the letter of the Treaty, and is totally inconsistent with its spirit. . . . If any doubt, however, could possibly arise on the first member of the sentence, it must vanish by a consid- eration of the second, which provides for their admis- sion to the rights, privileges, and immunities, of citizens of the United States. But the government (territorial), as we have shown, is totally incompatible with those LOUISIANA KNOCKS FOR ADMISSION 55 rights. Without any vote in the election of our Leg- islature, without any check on our Executive, without any one incident of self-government, what valuable "privilege" of citizenship is allowed us, what "right" do we enjoy, of what "immunity" can we boast, except, indeed, the degrading exemption from the cares of legislation, and the burden of public affairs? It appears that statements prejudicial to the people of Louisiana had been circulated through- out the republic, and the petitioners made answer thus: As to the degree of information diffused through the country, we humbly request that some more cor- rect evidence may be produced, than the superficial remarks that have been made by travelers or residents, who neither associate with us, nor speak our language. Many of us are native citizens of the United States, who have participated in that kind of knowledge which is there spread among the people; the others generally are men who will not suffer by a comparison with the population of any other colony. And then they close their petition, with the prayer "that prompt and efficacious measures may be taken to incorporate the inhabitants of Louisiana into the Union of the United States, and admit them to all the rights, privileges, and immunities, of the citizens thereof." The petition, however, failed to secure a favor- able answer from Congress at the time, although it was considered an able presentation of the petitioners' claims. Congress was not yet ready to found any trans-Mississippi states. The fur- 56 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE thest it thought it prudent to go at the time was to organize a territory. A great congressional battle had yet to be fought before Louisiana could be endowed with statehood. But on the ninth anniversary of the Treaty of Paris, April 30, 181 2, Congress opened the door, and admitted Louisiana as a sovereign state. The long-delayed prayer at last was answered. XIII LOUISIANA INCREASES HER POPULATION WHEN Louisiana passed into American hands, the only settlement of any impor- tance was in and about New Orleans. Farther up the Mississippi there were a few trading posts, where the merchants and Indians met to exchange their wares and furs. But it was not long before little settlements began to be formed, for the passage of the great river highway was now unhindered. Many adventurous spirits had already pushed back from the Atlantic Coast, and made their home along the east bank of the river. And when they came to know that the western bank was American territory as well as the eastern, it was an easy matter to cross the flood, and settle on the sunset shore. The first ten years of the new century had witnessed a large accession to the population of the American Republic. By i8iothe population had grown to 7,240,000. This was a very decided increase; though not so great as some sanguine souls had expected, and the prophets foretold. One of the chief reasons for this increase was the disturbed and distracted condition of Europe. The Napoleonic wars had thrown all Europe into a ferment. The Emperor of France had at 57 58 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE first thought only of a war with England. But in a few years he was at war with Europe. His hand was against every man's hand. This widespread and protracted warfare led multitudes to seek peace and plenty in America. To stay in Europe fated them to insufferable taxation and poverty, as well as to possible con- scription. And America seemed to them a land of promise, as well as a land of refuge. When they arrived, they found the seaboard tolerably well settled. So, when they heard of the new land to the west, they were strongly moved to continue their journey to it. The newcomer was not averse to a new land. So Louisiana gradually began to share in the large immigration, and little settlements began to be formed along the western tributaries of the Mis- sissippi. Some of the most thoughtful men in the coun- try deprecated this emigration westward. They were afraid that it would reduce the Atlantic States to insignificance, and endanger the per- manence of the Union. They loved the "rocks and rills," the "woods and templed hills" of the East, and were somewhat timid over the move- ment toward the rich prairies and abundant water courses of the new West. By kindly per- suasion they sought to keep their neighbors from becoming pioneers in the new province.* But they found that neither their fears nor their *A Virginia senator said: "This Eden of the New World will prove a cemetery for the bodies of our citizens." LOUISIANA INCREASES HER POPULATION 59 persuasions could stay the steady movement westward. Another thing that greatly accelerated the settlement of Louisiana was the invention of the steamboat. In the summer of 1807 Robert Ful- ton in his steamboat Clermont made the trip from New York to Albany in thirty-two hours, and the return trip in thirty. The experiment was declared impracticable before it was made, and ridiculed as useless afterward; yet it was a pronounced success. "The morning I left New York," wrote Fulton, "there were not, perhaps, thirty persons in the city who believed the boat would ever move one mile an hour/' But it did move five miles an hour. Fulton's invention was bound to revolutionize travel. What had been done on the Hudson could be done on the Tennessee and the Missis- sippi. By 181 1 a stern-wheel steamboat was navigating the waters of the Ohio. This vessel —the Orleans — was built at Pittsburgh by Fulton and Livingston. From this time on, the steam- navigation of the western streams increased rapidly. And the Province of Louisiana did not seem nearly so far away as when intending set- tlers had had to traverse the leagues of almost pathless forest, or commit themselves N to the cramped and uncertain canoe. Exploration of the new territory was constantly furthered by President Jefferson. The United States was determined to know something of its 60 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE purchase. Up to 1804, the only part of Louisi- ana of which there was any certain knowledge was the extreme southern section. But Jeffer- son resolved to know about the northern part as well, for Louisiana in that direction reached to the British possessions. So in 1804 he commis- sioned two officers of the army — Meriwether Lewis and William Clarke — to explore the waters of the Missouri. With a large party, Lewis and Clarke em- barked on a considerable flotilla of boats, and stemmed the rapid current of the Missouri for 2,600 miles. Their surveys extended over two years, when they left their boats, crossed the mountains, and found their way by the Columbia River to the Pacific. The information secured by this band of explorers was promptly despatched to Washing- ton, and was an important addition to the knowl- edge of the territory. And as their reports became known, adventurous settlers began to find their way to the new northern region, and create communities at advantageous points along the swift-coursing rivers. XIV AARON BURR AND LOUISIANA JUST what was in Burr's mind, when he pro- jected his ill-starred movement to the region of Louisiana, has never yet been agreed upon by our historians. It is not at all unlikely that his motives were as chaotic to him- self as they seem to the historians after a lapse of nearly a century. The time was full of adventures; and he was one of the adventurers. Without doubt, Burr was a vainglorious and visionary man. But his chief ambitions, which he had passionately cherished, were ruthlessly shattered. He had sought the Presidency, but, when it seemed just within his reach, Jefferson had secured the coveted prize. A bitter polit- ical quarrel had led him to mortal combat with Hamilton, and Hamilton was killed. Public opinion was against Burr, and the more the duel was discussed, the more incensed a large por- tion of the people became. Efforts were made to have him indicted for murder. He was also heavily in debt. He had been compelled to part with his residence in New York, but this by no means met his incumbrances. He did not dare to visit the metropolis, lest he be imprisoned for debt. At this crisis of his affairs— with his political 61 62 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE aspirations wrecked, and homeless and bankrupt — the vision of the West, and of the possible retrieval of his fortunes there, came to him. If the door of opportunity was closed to him in the East, why might not another door, even more spacious, be opened to him in the West? With the settlement of these remote sections some- men would be sure to achieve prominence and possibly glory; why not he? Whatever his dominant thought, he set out for the West, where he began to make acquaint- ances, and propound his schemes. He found Harman Blennerhassett at his island home in the Ohio, and secured his willing cooperation. He met Andrew Jackson and Henry Clay, and secured them as his partisans. He entered into a lengthy correspondence — conducted by cipher — with General Wilkinson, then military gov- ernor at New Orleans, and for a time possessed himself of his favor. And he gathered about him a small body of adventurous men, whom he drilled for military service, though he did not disclose to them his military intentions. He led them on an expedi- tion down the Mississippi as far as Natchez; but learning at this point that Wilkinson had betrayed him, and that Jefferson had issued a proclamation against him, he disbanded the expedition, and became, himself, a fugitive. Burr has been credited with several ambitions in this western adventure. One theory is that he was irritated by the Spanish dons, many of AARON BURR AND LOUISIANA 63 whom remained in the vicinity of New Orleans, and were obnoxious to the English-speaking residents, and he was resolved upon clearing Louisiana of the Spaniards. Another is that he meditated the capture of Texas and Mexico from the Spaniards, the setting up of a vast empire in Mexico, and making his daughter Theodosia — who accompanied him — the Mexi- can empress. Yet another theory, and perhaps the most plausible, is that he aspired to set up an independent government in the Province of Louisiana, with New Orleans as the center of administration. Of the feasibility of establish- ing a Western Empire in the Mississippi Valley he had freely spoken with his friends. And it maybe it was this that led him to correspond with Wilkinson, who at the time was commander of the United States forces at New Orleans. There is no doubt of Burr's antipathy to Jeffer- son, his political rival, and to the Virginian coterie that seemed to keep its hold on the national government. At his trial, witnesses testified that Burr had asserted it would be an easy matter for a few determined men to over- throw the government at Washington. But this testimony is generally discredited by historians, who agree in the thought that while Burr may have dreamed of a possible empire in the Prov- ince of Louisiana, it was to be only the rival, and not the destroyer, of the national authority at Washington. And yet it was for treason, as well as misde- 64 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE meanor, that Burr and Blennerhassett were tried in Richmond, in 1807. Jefferson undoubtedly considered Burr's adventure as distinctly trea- sonable, and believed that Burr had aimed at Louisiana rather than at the possessions of Spain. And the President sought Burr's con- viction on this charge, directing the prosecution at Richmond by frequent letters from Wash- ington. To the intense vexation of the President, how- ever, the first trial collapsed; the Chief-Justice ruling that no overt act of treason had been proved against Burr, such as is required by the Constitution. Burr's trial for misdemeanor was spun out for a time, but he was acquitted on the ground that he ought to be tried in Ohio, where the misdemeanor was committed. Burr was bailed to appear for trial in Ohio, but the case never was prosecuted by the courts of that state. Burr almost immediately went to England — a thoroughly discredited, though acquitted, man. And Louisiana, relieved by the collapse of Burr's adventure, moved forward in lines of peaceful development. XV JOSIAH QUINCY S THREATS OF SECESSION AS alluded to previously, the inhabitants of Louisiana petitioned Congress in 1804 that the recently acquired province might be received into the family of States. But all that Congress would do at the time was to accept it as a terri- tory — the Territory of Orleans — and equip it with a territorial government. So matters ran along until 181 1, when a strenu- ous attempt was made to admit the territory as a state. The majority of Congress by this time was favorable to such action; but there was a hopeless though ardent minority of Extreme Federalists resolutely opposed to it. Of this minority, Josiah Quincy of Massachusetts was a conspicuous member, and a leading and brilliant exponent of its views. In the session of 181 1 Mr. Quincy made a speech — and perhaps his most famous speech — in opposition to the admission of Louisiana, some portions of which seem little less than ludi- crous to the America of to-day. He opened his remarks by saying: I am compelled to declare it as my deliberate opin- ion, that, if this bill passes, the bonds of this Union .are virtually dissolved; that the states which compose it are free from their moral obligations; and that as it 65 66 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE will be the right of all, so it will be the duty of some to prepare definitely for a separation; amicably, if they can; violently, if they must. "But," says the gentleman from Tennessee, "these people have been seven years citizens of the United States." I deny it, sir. As citizens of New Orleans, or of Louisiana, they never have been, and by the mode proposed they never will be, citizens of the United States. They may be girt upon us for a moment, but no real cement can grow from such an association. ' "But," the gentleman adds, "what shall we do, if we do not admit the people of Louisiana into our Union? Our children are settling that country." Sir, it is no concern of mine what he does. Because his children have run wild and uncovered into the woods, is that a reason for him to break into my house, or the houses of my friends, to filch our children's clothes, in order to cover his children's nakedness? This Con- stitution never was, and never can be, strained to lap over all the wilderness of the West, without essentially affecting both the rights and convenience of its real proprietors. It was never constructed to form a cov- ering for the inhabitants of the Missouri and the Red River country. And whenever it is attempted to be stretched over them, it will rend asunder. * Now who believes, who dare assert, that it was the intention of the people, when they adopted this Con- stitution, to assign eventually to New Orleans and Louisiana a portion of their political power; and to invest all the people those extensive regions might hereafter contain with an authority over themselves and their descendants? Do you suppose the people of the Northern and Atlantic States will, or ought to, look with patience JOSIAH QUINCY'S THREATS OF SECESSION 67 and see representatives and senators from the Rrd River and Missouri pouring themselves upon this and the other floor; managing the concerns of a seaboard fifteen hundred miles, at least, from their residence; and having a preponderancy in councils, into which THE FATHER OF WATERS IN THE NORTH Courtesy of Great Northern Railway constitutionally they could never have been admitted ? I have no hesitation upon this point. They neither will see it, nor ought to see it, with content. It is the part of a wise man to foresee danger and to hide him- self. This great usurpation, which creeps into this House, under the plausible appearance of giving con- 68 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE tent to that important point —New Orleans — starts up a gigantic power to control the nation. Upon the actual condition of things, there is, there can be, no need of concealment. It is apparent to the blindest vision. By the course of nature, and conformable to the acknowledged principles of the Constitution, the scepter of power in this country is passing toward the Northwest. Sir, there is to this no objection. The right belongs to that quarter of the country. Enjoy it; it is yours. Use the powers granted, as you please. But take care, in your haste after effectual dominion, not to overload the scale by heaping it with these new acquisitions. Grasp not too eagerly at your purpose. In your speed after uncontrolled sway, trample not down this Constitution. Already the old states sink in the estimation of members, when brought into comparison with these new countries. We have been told that "New Orleans was the most important point in the Union." A place out of the Union the most important place within it! We have been asked, "What are some of the small states, when compared with the Mississippi Territory?" The gentleman from that territory spoke the other day of the Mississippi, as "of a highroad between" — good heavens! between what, Mr. Speaker? Why, "the Eastern and Western States." So that all the north- western territories, all the countries, once the extreme western boundary of our Union, are hereafter to be denominated "Eastern States". . . There is no limit to men's imaginations on this subject, short of Califor- nia and the Columbia River! In closing his speech, Mr. Quincy said: I oppose this bill from no animosity to the people JOSIAH QUINCY's THREATS OF SECESSION 6q of New Orleans, but from the deep conviction that it contains a principle incompatible with the liberties and safety of my country. I have no concealment of my opinion. The bill, if it passes, is a death-blow to the Constitution. It may afterward linger; but, linger- ing, its fate will at no very distant period be consum- mated. Mr. Quincy's address on the perils surely attendant on national expansion may fairly be considered as the swan-song of the expiring Federalist party. Within a few months of its deliverance the Territory of Orleans became the State of Louisiana. And its admission made it easy for other sections west of the Mississippi to find their way into the Union, as they became ready for statehood. And notwithstanding the gloomy prophecies regarding the danger to the Constitution, that document abides undestroyed to the present hour. XVI . THE BATTLE OF NEW ORLEANS ONE conflict remained before the region of the Louisiana Purchase could rest securely in American hands. It was a brief and spirited conflict; but gloriously decisive. It was the Battle of New Orleans. Louisiana had been admitted as a state on the last day of April, 1812. And in the June follow- ing Congress declared war against England. The war continued, with varying fortunes to either of the combatants, for nearly three years, when it was ended by the Treaty of Ghent. This treaty was signed and sealed a full fort- night before the Battle of New Orleans was fought. But the news of the cessation of hostil- ities had as yet reached neither General Jackson, the American commander at New Orleans, nor General Pakenham, commander of the British forces. The British had up to this time spent their energies in attacking the Union along the Atlantic seaboard and the Canadian frontier. But toward the close of 1814 they turned their attention to the Gulf settlements, and notably to New Orleans. They were moved to this attack because of the strategic position this city occupied, as the key to the Mississippi. 70 THE BATTLE OF NEW ORLEANS Jl Gleig, an officer in the expedition, after describing the Mississippi and its tributaries in his despatches to England, wrote: "Whatever nation, therefore, chances to possess this place [New Orleans], possesses in reality the com- mand of a greater extent of country than is included within the boundary-line of the whole United States." And the London Times announced that "Most active measures are pursuing for detaching from the dominion of the enemy an important part of his territory." So Pakenham's campaign seems to have been undertaken not simply to capture New Orleans, but to secure the vast section of the Louisiana Purchase as well. With Canada on the north, and Louisiana on the west, the American Republic would have been walled about by British territory. It was late in December, 1814, that the British military and naval forces appeared off New Orleans. The American gunboats in Lake Borgne were easily captured, and the British landed twenty-four hundred men nine miles below the city. General Jackson went out to meet the invading force with about two thous- and men — militiamen from Kentucky and Ten- nessee as well as from Louisiana, free negroes, enrolled convicts, and the semi-piratical fol- lowers of the famous Lafitte. The first skirmish was toward the evening of December 2d, The fight continued about three 72 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE hours, during which more than two hundred men on either side were killed or wounded. The Americans withdrew to their fortifications, four miles from the city. General Pakenham — a brother-in-law of the Duke of Wellington — being strongly reinforced, COURT OF AN OLD NEW ORLEANS MANSION made his next attack on New Year's morning. The British had erected bastions of hogsheads of sugar, while cotton bales furnished protection to the Americans. The hogsheads were easily broken up by the cannonshet, while the cotton THE BATTLE OF NEW ORLEANS 73 bales were set on fire and consumed. The day ended by the Americans withdrawing to their earthworks, a mile and a half in the rear. Early on the morning of January 8, 1815, the British made their most determined, and final, attack. The Americans fought with such bravery that they held their foes in check. Not even the onset of the Highlanders disconcerted them for a moment. Nine British officers were killed in the assault, of whom two were generals — Pakenham, the commander, and Gibbs — while General Keene was seriously wounded. It was a glorious victory for the Americans. The action lasted but a short half-hour; but in that brief time the British had lost 700 in killed, 1,400 in wounded, and 500 prisoners. The American loss was only 17. Thoroughly disheartened by the disasters that had overtaken the enterprise, General Lambert — on whom the command fell after Pakenham's death — abandoned it, and withdrew the small remnant of the army to his ships, only to learn almost immediately that peace between the belligerents had been concluded some weeks before. The victory of the Americans proved that even raw militia were more than a match for the best veteran troops of Europe; while it covered their doughty leader with glory, and paved the way for his reaching, a few years after, the Presi- dential chair. PART II CJje iLoutstana $urcfw8e 75 XVII SOME STATISTICS OF THE PURCHASE THE United States Treasury Bureau of Sta- tistics computes the total land and water area of the Louisiana Purchase as 875,025 square miles. This is only a little less than the com- bined areas of Great Britain, the .Netherlands, Belgium, Germany, France, Spain, Italy, and Switzerland. The total land area of the original Thirteen States was 820,944 square miles. Deducting the 10,081 square miles of water area from the total area of the Purchase, there remain 864,944 square miles of land area, or 44,000 square miles more than 'in the original States. JThe area of the United States was more than doubled by the Louisiana Purchase. Fourteen states and territories have been created in whole or in part out of the purchased province. They are, in alphabetical order, Arkansas.^ Colorado. < Iowa. Kansas. Louisiana. ^ Minnesota. Missouri. Montana. ^ 77 78 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE Nebraska. North Dakota. South Dakota. Wyoming. Indian Territory. P Oklahoma. -..-,. Taking the area of the six New I England States — 66,000 square miles — as a measure, the following striking facts appear: The State of Louisiana is three-fourths as large as New England. Iowa is a little more than five-sixths as large, and Arkansas approx- imately the same. Missouri is a little larger than New England. Indian Territory and Oklahoma combined are as large as New England with another Connec- ticut thrown in. The same is true of North Dakota. Another Vermont and Rhode Island must be added to New England to make up the area of South Dakota, or Nebraska. Minnesota and Kansas are each one-and-a- quarter times the size of New England; while Wyoming and Colorado are each one-and-a-half times as large. Montana is twice as large as New England with another New Hampshire and Connecticut added. The area of the twelve states and two territo- ries to-day made up in whole or in part from the Purchase is very nearly as great as Sixteen New Englands. SOME STATISTICS OF THE PURCHASE 7Q At the time that the Province of Louisiana came into American hands, it had a population of less than 100,000. In 1900, the population of the twelve states and two territories was 14,708,616, or about one-fifth of the population of the entire country. As stated before, the area of these states and territories equals, or very nearly equals, that of eight countries of Europe, the names of which were given. But while the present population of the area included in the Purchase is 14, 708,616, the population of these European countries is 202,363,573, or nearly fourteen times as great as that of the Purchase. Judged by the European density of popula- tion, the area of the Purchase is not, as yet, unduly crowded. XVIII LOUISIANA LA BELLE LOUISIANE" was the first state within the limits of the purchased province to be admitted to the Union. It was endowed with statehood on April 30, 181 2, the ninth anniversary of the day when the treaty of transfer was signed and sealed. The signature of President Madison was on its papers of admission. Louisiana's area of 48,720 square miles is divided between low swamp lands overflowed by the tidal waters of the numerous bayous and the Gulf of Mexico; prairie stretches, among whose rich grasses immense herds of cattle roam and fatten; and rolling uplands, where the long- leaved or short-leaved pine, and the umbrageous oak grow in abundance. Large and flourishing rice farms are found in the swamp sections, farms that it is believed will be able in a few years to supply the rice markets of the world. By the proper irrigation of this section, and by the introduction of machinery to harvest the rice, and thresh and polish it in the mills, large tracts of land that once were practically value- less have been made worth from $50 to $100 an acre. 80 LOUISIANA 81 Up to 1885, Louisiana was raising no commer- cial rice. Her limited product was consumed within her own borders. But in 1900 it required 8,000 cars, with a carrying capacity of 20,000 A COTTON WHARF AT NEW ORLEANS pounds each, to convey her rice crop to the chief trade centers. In the prairie region are fine ranches for cattle, which are being raised in ever-increasing numbers, and require no shelter against winter storms, for perpetual summer is there. Land-improvement companies have by the 82 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE use of dikes recovered much fertile land from the shores of the bayous. This re- claimed land produces the finest crops of cot- ton, sugar-cane, and corn. Millions of dollars have been expended on the dikes and levees of the state. Louisiana has a perpetual water problem. She has 3,782 miles of navigable waters in her rivers and bayous, besides several large navi- gable lakes, such as Pontchartrain, Borgne, and Grand. The Father of Waters keeps the sentinel and the laborer busy at their post of duty on the levees. A sub-tropical climate makes Louisiana an important fruit state. Oranges and other citrous fruits abound. Figs grow well, as do, also, bananas and pineapples. The orange groves are vocal with the sweet chords of the southern mocking-bird. Flowers of richest beauty and fragrance are everywhere. Roses, jasmines, camellias, oleanders, and mag- nolias fill both garden and plain. The magnolia is the state flower. The agricultural staples of Louisiana are sugar, cotton, rice, corn, and tobacco. The sugar production of 1898 was $35,600,000; of cotton, $21,000,000; of corn, hay, and oats, $30,000,000; and of rice, $3,000,000. The County of East Carroll produces the largest yield of cotton to the acre of any land in the world. The famous Perique tobacco is grown nowhere else than in Louisiana. LOUISIANA 83 Nearly three-fifths of the state is yet clad in forests, which are estimated to contain forty billion feet of pine and oak timber, and ten billion feet of cypress along the Atchafalaya. The tenebrous boughs of the cypress Meet in a dusky arch, and trailing mosses in mid-air Wave like banners that hang on the walls of ancient cathedrals. Great railway systems give the state easy access to the markets of her sister states. At the levees of New Orleans large ocean steamships take on cargoes, of cotton for the factories across the sea. The Mississippi River trade with New Orleans is still very large, even though the river is paralleled by trunk railway .lines. Louisiana's population of 1,381,625 is widely dispersed throughout the various "parishes," as they are called, instead of being crowded into cities. The state has only three cities with a population of more than 10,000. Baton Rouge, the capital, has only 11,000, and Shreveport 16,000. New Orleans, with 287,000, is the only large city. # The people of the state represent several races. The colored race is in evidence every- where. In nearly all the rural parishes it is in the majority. In some of the northern parishes it exceeds the white race ten to one. The white race predominates in New Orleans, but there the citizens of French descent are as numerous as Americans. There are decidedly 8 4 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE French quarters in the city, and a large French market, in both of which the visitor will get many a hint of the language and the manners of the days before Louisiana became American. Certainly, in no part of the Union has France i-4l . i * Wfii MISSISSIPPI RIVER BOATS, NEW ORLEANS left so many footprints of her early occupation as in Louisiana. Twenty-five of her fifty-eight counties retain their French names. In four counties there are descendants of the Acadians, who found their way there upon their expulsion from Nova Scotia. They cling LOUISIANA 85 to the French tongue, and retain many of the simple and artless customs that Longfellow praises in his "Evangeline." In southern Loui- siana French is the predominant language. The name of the state is French, as is also that of its leading city. And wherever one turns, he is sure to meet some name that reminds him of France — some Thibodeaux, or Plaque- mines, or Terrebonne, or Bienville, or Pontchar- train, or Feliciana. Louisiana passed out of the hands of France a full century ago, but American possession and occupation have not been able yet to change the manners or the language of those who are chil- dren of the old colonists. The flag of the Bour- bons, and its successor, the tricolor, have been lowered long since; but the speech and customs of the Bourbons remain to the present hour unal- tered by the change of ownership. Louisiana gives careful attention to educa- tion. Public schools for white pupils, and sepa- rate schools for colored youth, are found in every city, town, and parish. The high schools are many, and of a good grade. The State Normal School is at Natchitoches, and there is also a Normal School at New Orleans. The State University is at Baton Rouge, as is also the Agricultural and Mechanical Col- lege. The Louisiana Industrial Institute is at Ruston. Tulane University, and Mount Lebanon Uni- 86 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE versity, while not state institutions, are valuable assistants to the cause of higher education, as are also several other colleges and academies maintained by the various religious denomina- tions. XIX MISSOURI MISSOURI was the second state admit- ted to the Union from the Province of Louisiana. The same year that Louisiana became a state (1812) Missouri was organized as a territory. By 1818, however, she thought herself entitled to statehood, and made her application to Con- gress for admission. But Congress kept her on the waiting list for three full years. A very grave question arose in connection with her application that must first be settled. This question was whether the Union would or would not sanction the extension of slavery into the new states to be formed in the Province of Louisiana. The State of Louisiana had been received as a slave state, although there was a strong minority in Congress that had protested earnestly against her admission, on account of her proslavery constitution. When Missouri sought admission, the ques- tion was raised at once whether she was to be a slave state or not. Congress was about evenly divided on the matter, and a bitter contest was precipitated that continued for three years. The controversy was settled at last by the 87 88 THE LOUISIANA TURCHASE passage of a measure familiarly known as "The Missouri Compromise." This measure forbade slavery "in all that portion of the Louisiana Pur- chase lying north of latitude 36° 30', with the CAPITOL AT JEFFERSON CITY, MISSOURI Courtesy of Missouri Pacific Railway exception of Missouri"' The result was not satis- factory to either the proslavery or antislavery party, but it was thought on all sides to be the best disposition of the case that could be secured at the time. MISSOURI 89 The way was now clear for the admission of Missouri, and on the 10th of August, 182 1, Presi- dent Monroe proclaimed her a sovereign state. Missouri is, in the main, a prairie state, although in some sections the land is much more broken and hilly than is usual in the prairie states. Its area is 69,415 square miles. The Missouri River cuts the state in twain, flowing in a general direction from west to east, and uniting with the Mississippi a few miles north of St. Louis. Northern Missouri is a fine agricultural section, while the southern part of the state is divided between prairie lands and mining areas. In the southwest is the range of Ozark Mountains, with an extreme altitude of 1,600 feet above sea level. The leading agricultural products of Missouri are wheat, corn, oats, cotton, tobacco, and flax. The soil is rich and well watered, and large crops are the rule. The cattle interests are extensive, and horses and mules are raised in great numbers. Missouri furnished thousands of mules to the British Army for its South African campaign. The poultry interests, however, excel all others. In a recent year the shipments of live and dressed poultry amounted to 107,000,000 pounds; while the shipments of eggs reached a total of thirty-five million dozen, or a half-dozen eggs apiece for every person in the Union. The combined values of corn, wheat, oats, timothy and clover seed, cotton seed, castor 90 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE beans, tobacco, broom-corn, hay, and straw, for that year, did not quite equal the value of the eggs and poultry shipped from the state. Missouri has extensive beds of bituminous coal, and the mines are easily worked. Iron ores are abundant. Iron Mountain is the largest and purest mass of iron ore known anywhere in the world. Zinc also is found in large quantities, and the zinc mines are now a very valuable prop- erty.* In the central and southern portions of the state there are vast deposits of lead. In or near Washington County there is a series of caves from whose sides and roofs millions of pounds of lead are depending.t In the vicinity of St. Louis, and especially at Crystal City, are immense beds of sand, suitable for making the best grades of glass. The glass industry — in window glass, glassware, and, above all, plate-glass — is one of the most important in the long list of manufactured products. Missouri is a Mecca for the great railway lines, and St. Louis is one of the busiest railroad centers in the country. Missouri also has the additional advantage of a possible choice of routes, as she can use the Mississippi and the Missouri rivers as well as the railroads. The levee along the river front at St. Louis is a busy place. In population Missouri ranks fifth among the *The zinc ore product for iqoi was worth $5,310,000. f The output of lead for 1901 was valued at $4, 850,000. Q2 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE States; 3,106,665 people are within her borders. And yet she has only six cities above the 10,000 mark. In view of the prominence of St. Louis in the thought of America for the next eighteen months, some facts regarding it become spe- cially interesting. St. Louis was first settled by French colonists under Liguest and Chouteau in 1764, and was given the name of the French king. By iqco, her population had passed the half-million mark. She has twenty public parks, one of which is the second largest park in the world, with 1,372 acres. She has the greatest steel and arch bridge in the world, 6,220 feet long. Her courthouse cost $2,200,000, and her water- works plant $30,000,000. She has 64 hotels, and 524 churches. She has the largest electric plant, and the largest brewery in America; she has the tallest shot tower in America, and many of her eight thousand factories are more than a match for any of their kind in the world. In a word, from a little fur-trading post in Liguest's day, she has grown to be one of the leading commercial marts on this continent. Missouri has a well-ordered and progressive school system. Free public schools for white and colored youth berween the ages of six and twenty are required by law for every district of the state. The various religious denominations support private schools and colleges. MISSOURI 93 The State University at Columbia has a plant that cost more than $1,000,000, and an endow- ment of $1,250,000. It has a library of 40,000 bound volumes. The university is open to both sexes. The School of Mines and Metallurgy — a department of the university — is located at Rolla. In wealth and population Missouri is probably in advance of any state west of the Mississippi. Yet its natural resources, which seem so vast now, are but imperfectly developed. Missouri is still a land of opportunity for the thrifty and enterprising settler. What the second century of her state existence may bring to her, only an unguarded prophet would venture to predict. XX ARKANSAS FIFTEEN years elapsed, after the admission of Missouri, before another state was cre- ated out of the Louisiana Purchase. This state was Arkansas, which was admitted to the Union, June 15, 1836, during the administration of Presi- dent Jackson. As her territory lay south of 36 30' — the northern limit for slavery as agreed upon by the "Missouri Compromise" ; — Arkansas was admitted as a slave state. And she remained such until, in the fortunes of war, slavery was finally and forever abolished. The area of Arkansas is 53,850 square miles. The state is about equally divided between mountain lands, hill lands, and rich bottom lands. The northwestern part of the state is very broken and rugged. The Ozark Mountains there reach a height of 2,000 feet. But there is some- thing in the soil of this section that produces the finest apples. Arkansas apples were awarded several gold medals at the Paris Exposition of 1900. The hill country south of the Arkansas River is finely adapted to peach culture. Three hun- dred bushels of peaches to the acre in that region is spoken of as "a fair yield." 94 g6 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE The valleys among the hills are wondrously rich in pasturage— Bermuda grass, Japan clover, Kentucky bluegrass, and alfalfa growing there luxuriantly. But of the 28,000,000 acres of Arkansas land that may be tilled, the rich alluvial lands along the streams are most sought after by the southern farmer. For here he can best grow his cotton and his corn, his sweet potatoes and his melons. Arkansas is rich in rivers. The Mississippi skirts its eastern boundary; the Arkansas flows directly across the state, joining the Mississippi at Napoleon; the St. Francis and the White rivers parallel the Mississippi in the north; and the Red River goes out of its way to visit the state in the southwest. Arkansas has 3,000 miles of navigable streams. The bottom lands along these streams and their tributaries are exceedingly fertile. Here are the numerous cotton plantations that make Arkansas one of the leading cotton states of the South. What wheat is to the Dakotas, and corn to Iowa, so is cotton to Arkansas. Over 6,000,000 acres are suitable for cotton-raising. The nor- mal cotton crop of the state is about 800,000 bales of 500 pounds each, and the normal value of the crop — including both fiber and seed— is $37,600,000. Corn, oats, tobacco, and sorghum also are at home on the bottom lands. The sorghum syrup of Dixie is a real institution. Sweet potatoes yield about 300 bushels to the acre. Melons and ARKANSAS Q7 cantaloupes reach a profit of $75 to $100 an acre. Back among the hills are vast timber stretches of inestimable value. Black walnut, pine, and oak abound. And in the same regions are mines of zinc, lead, iron, and copper, only await- ing the capital to develop them. Underlying 5,000,000 acres are immense coal beds, both bituminous and anthracite, the latter being only a little softer than that of Penn- sylvania. Hot springs along the banks of the Washita attract a hundred thousand invalids annually for help and healing. The springs issue from a sandstone ridge. There are more than a hun- dred in all. The city of Hot Springs is a famous American spa. Arkansas has 1,311,561 citizens. A large pro- portion of these are negroes. In some sections of the state the colored race is strongly in the majority. Urban life is not conspicuous throughout the state. There are only three cities over the 10,000 mark. Rural life in Arkansas is at the maximum. Little Rock, the capital, is on the Arkansas River, three hundred miles above its mouth. Its early name was "La Petite Rochelle," which was given it by the old French voyageurs. They had come up the Arkansas River to this point, seeing only low and sandy banks and wide bot- tom lands. Not a stone or rock was in sight Q8 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE jyntil they reached the site of the present capital, but there they found a tongue of rock jutting out from the bluff shore. . It was such a novelty that they named it "La Petite Rochelle" — "Little Rock." But the French name had to give way to the unromantic Saxon translation. Though the first settlement in the state was made by French colonists in 1685, at Arkansas Point, fifty miles from the Mississippi, yet very few reminders of the French regime remain in the names of localities. In this respect it is entirely different from Louisiana. There is a Bellefonte, a Napoleon, a Sevier, a Chicot, and a St. Francis; and but few beyond these. Saxon nomenclature almost entirely suf plan ted the Norman. XXI THE STATE OF IOWA WHEN America acquired the Province of Louisiana, the Sioux, Sac, Fox, and Iowa Indians roamed the flower-gemmed prairies of what is now the State of Iowa. But it was not long before they had to give way to the white settlers from Indiana and Illinois, who, with the vision of the seer, saw in those prairies the rich corn lands of the future. Statehood came to Iowa as a gift for the Christmas week of 1846. The exact date that President Polk signed her papers of admission was December 28, 1846. This typical prairie state has an area of 56,025 square miles. To one familiar with hills or mountains, the level or undulating surface of the prairie lands seems painfully monotonous From no Iowan home is there seen on the dis- tant sky line the deep blue of a mountain range. In the early days the region was almost with- out trees, with the exception of an occasional clump along some stream. But Iowa has ceased to be treeless as of old, as her people have given much attention to the planting of forest trees and fruit orchards, which now add grace and beauty to the landscape. The prairie soil is a dark loam from one to 99 IOO THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE two feet deep, and of almost exhaustless fertility. And it is amply, though not abundantly, watered. There is no swamp or marsh land in the state. Practically the whole of Iowa may be tilled. The farm is the unit of industry in Iowa. Not that she is without cities, for, of her population of 2,231,853, one-sixth is in the cities. Of her STATE CAPITOL, DES MOINES, IOWA Courtesy of Northwestern Railroad fourteen cities, six have a population of more than 10,000 and less than 20,000, four between 20,000 and 30,000; three between 30,000 and 40,- 000, while Des Moines, the capital, has 62.000. But Iowa has no great city, like all her sister THE STATE O* -IOWa IOI states about her. Her life is commandingly rural, agricultural. Corn is king in Iowa. The state flower is the wild rose. But had Celia Thaxter been con- sulted when the choice was being made, she would have said to Iowa: On thy fair shield set thou thy maize. More glorious than a myriad flowers! In iqoo Iowa ranked second among the corn- growing states, Illinois alone outranking her. Other grain staples are wheat and oats, while she also raises a large crop of hay. She, too, indulges in sorghum and broomcorn. Her cattle and dairy interests are enormous. In 1900 she had over 4,000,000 cattle, and more than 1,000,000 milch cows. Beside these, she had 500,000 sheep, and over 3,000,000 hogs. Iowa has few minerals. In the vicinity of Dubuque lead mines are extensively worked, about 5,000,000 tons of lead being smelted annually. Large beds of very pure gypsum are found in the region of Fort Dodge. Bitumi- nous coal fields underlie 5,000,000 acres of her surface, and about 4,000,000 long tons are mined each year. The transportation facilities of the state are excellent. Iowa is a perfect network of rail- ways. The great trunk lines between Chicago and the West traverse her territory, and with their lateral lines reach every town and hamlet within her borders. Iowa adopted a very liberal ^ THE STATE OF IOWA IO3 policy toward the railroads in the constructive period, and to-day she is reaping the benefits. She is also able to avail herself of river trans- portation. While she has no internal navigable waters, the Mississippi skirts her borders on the east, and the Missouri on the west. And these are both navigable. Boats run up the Mississippi to St. Paul, Minn., and bring Iowa the immense IOWA CATTLE Courtesy of Northwestern Railroad quantities of lumber which she needs. She is dependent on Minnesota for her lumber sup- plies, which reach her largely by the river. The western tier of counties can easily use the Missouri for trade with St. Louis and points farther south, as also with the Northwest. The people of Iowa, industrious, thrifty, and moral, are deeply attached to their educational system, which ranks among the best in the land. MINNESOTA 107 Anthony, his patron saint. Minnesota was known in Paris long before it was known in New York or Boston. The area of the state to-day is 83,365 square miles. The southern and western sections are opulent farm lands, producing wheat, corn and oats in great abundance. The northeastern section is rich in forests of pine, and in iron mines. Wheat is the staple crop. The Red River of the North is the dividing line between Minnesota and the Dakotas, and the Red River Valley produces the finest flouring wheat in America. The seed of this famous No. 1 Red wheat was brought from southern Russia by Mennonite immigrants about twenty-five years ago. It was at first disparaged by the millers and grain buyers, but by degrees it won its way to recog- nition and fame. In 1900 Minnesota stood second in wheat pro- ' duction, the value of her crop being $32,500,000. Her most important flour-mills are at Minne- apolis, twenty-five of them in all, and the finest in the world. In 1900, their combined output was 14,250,000 barrels of flour, ground from 65,000,000 bushels of wheat. This amount of flour would make 19,500,000 loaves of bread a day, or enough for the needs of the six New England States, New York, Pennsylvania, and Ohio. The climate is ideal for wheat. The winters are cold, but the air is dry. The heat of the 104 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE At the time Iowa became a state, 1,125,000 acres of land were set aside for the support of the common school fund. And liberal grants of public money have since been made to keep up the prestige of her schools. Besides the graded and high schools, there is the State University at Iowa City, for which generous provision is made from the public funds. Iowa is also the land of churches. She has no less than thirty-six various denominations of Christians. Many of the christian bodies main- tain schools for higher learning, and give them excellent support. An interesting historic fact is that coeducation in these schools — so far as it is practiced — came from the advice of Horace Mann, when he was visiting a college in Daven- port in 1858. He recommended it, and it became the policy of these schools henceforward. XXII MINNESOTA MINNESOTA means "Sky-tinted Water.' ; This name was given by the Indians to the first important tributary of the Mississippi, because of the purity of its water, that reflected the sky above it. When the question of naming the region came up, it was proposed to call it "Itasca," after the lake in which the Mississippi takes its rise. But "Itasca" was set aside for "Minnesota." The state with this beautiful name was admitted to the sisterhood of States on May n, 1858, during the administration of Buchanan. Only about two-thirds of what is now Minnesota was included in the Louisiana Purchase. But perhaps this review had better treat of the state according to its present limits, instead of follow- ing slavishly the landmarks of the past. The earliest histories of the state are found in the journals of the Jesuit missionaries, who pen- etrated its wilds to bring the christian faith to the savage and fierce Dakotas. Du Luth found his way there, and established a trading post; his name still lingers in the busy city on the great northern lake. And Louis Hennepin, a Benedictine monk, visited the falls of the Missis- sippi in i68o t and gave them the name of St. 105 108 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE summer days is intense, but the nights are cool — which is perfect wheat weather. The rainfall is only twenty-five inches, but it is very evenly distributed, and is sufficient. Minnesota's dairy interests are immense. The milk of 331,000 cows was received at her cream- eries in 1900, and its value was $7,000,000. The output of the creameries was 75,000,000 pounds of butter, which at 15 cents a pound netted over $11,000,000. Minnesota has taken the prize for butter at the New Orleans Exposition in 1884, the first premium at the World's Fair in Chicago, and the Sweepstakes prize at the Paris Exposition. The great pine belt stretches from Lake Supe- rior to the Red River Valley. The Duluth saw- mills cut 730,000,000 feet of lumber in 1900, while 2,500,000 ties were got out for the railroads. The lake fleet visiting Duluth for cargoes of grain, lumber, and iron ore is numbered by the thousands. Most of the grain finds its way to Buffalo, the lumber to the Great Lake cities, and the iron ore to the smelting furnaces of Ohio and Pennsylvania. The iron ores of the Messaba Range are won- derfully rich. They are frequently found in a pulverized state, and are loaded on the cars by steam shovels — an easy method of mining. Minnesota has a population of 1 ,75 1 ,394, accord- ing to the last census. She has a large foreign element in her population, but it is chiefly made up of Scandinavians and Germans, who become excellent citizens, Some of the best journals MINNESOTA IO9 published in the state are in the Scandinavian and German tongues. There are six cities in Minnesota of over 10,000 population. St. Paul and Minneapolis — "The Twin Cities" — are the civic marvels of the Northwest, for enterprise, beauty, and culture. Beside 2,800 miles of navigable waters, Minne- sota has 7,000 lakes, some of which are respecta- bly large. Minnesota need not go out of her own borders for beautiful summer resorts and healthful recreation. The loyalty of the state to the Union is seen in the fact that she provided 24,000 men for the Union Army. But war time brought to her an experience that she can never recall without a shudder. While so many of her able-bodied men were at the South, the Sioux Indains went on the war-path, and swept down on the ill- defended settlements. Seven hundred people were murdered, and two hundred women car- ried into captivity. Eighteen counties were ruthlessly ravaged, and $3,000,000 worth of property destroyed. To this day, the memories of the New Ulm, and other massacres, are pain- fully vivid. Minnesota makes the largest provision for the education of her people. Her school system is of the newest and best type. She is rich in institutions of higher learning, in public libraries, in influential journals, in christian churches — in all that makes for the broadest intelligence and most virile citizenship. XXIII THE STATE OF KANSAS IT WAS duringthe distracted days immediately preceding the Civil War that Kansas gained the prize of statehood. The administration of President Buchanan was nearing its close, and secession had been already determined upon by some of the states, when, on January 29, 1861, Kansas was admitted to the Union. In less than three months, Sumter was under fire, and the war was on. In 1854 Kansas had been made a territory, and the same year Congress abrogated the "Missouri Compromise," thus leaving the exten- sion of slavery into the new states again an open question. The eastern neighbors of Kansas were bent upon making her a slave state, but a considera- ble segment of her own citizens were as deter- mined that her soil should be free. The struggle between these contending elements was fierce and protracted. Rival legislatures were in session at the same time, blood was shed in broils, and Lawrence was sacked and burned. But out of all the trying experiences Kansas finally emerged as a free-soil state. Kansas is the hub state of the Union, geo- graphically. She. is notably a prairie state, her THE STATE OF KANSAS III surface diversified by plains, gentle hills, and woodlands. The soil is highly productive. In. the early days there were vast ranges covered with buffalo grass, where immense herds of bison found their natural feeding grounds. AT FORT LEAVENWORTH, KANSAS Courtesy of Missouri Pacific Railway The area of the state is 82,080 square miles. She is as large as New York state and Indiana combined, or Maine and Ohio. The rainfall is a little short, but Kansas has an abundance of streams — the Arkansas, Kansas, 112 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE Republican, Saline, Solomon, Blue, Medicine and Cimarron rivers. Besides these, she has a water- front of 150 miles on the nagivable Missouri. There is also a subterranean waterflow capable of irrigating an area more extensive and more Burlington Route ON A SHEEP RANCH fertile than the Valley of the Nile. This is reached by numerous artesian wells which by a system of reservoirs are made to irrigate the farms. The staple crops of her fertile acres are corn, wheat, oats, and sorghum. Sugar beets, and THE STATE OF KANSAS 1 13 large crops of hay and alfalfa are produced, also. Corn is king in Kansas, as in the other prairie states. The largest crop of this cereal the state ever produced was 225,000,000 bushels in 1899. In 1900 Kansas forged her way to the first place in the galaxy of wheat-raising states, and maintained her position in 1901. In corn and wheat, taken together, she produced in 1900 $17,000,000 worth more than any other state in the Union. Her livestock interests are enormous. Her horses count up 915,000. Her cattle number 2,600,000, besides 800,000 milch cows. Her dairy products in 1900 reached $7,500,000. She fur- nished for the shambles — those within her own borders at Kansas City, and others elsewhere — 1,250,000 cattle, 3,500,000 hogs, and 775,000 sheep, in 1900 alone. Her income from this source was $61,000,000. No wonder that her cattle owners think of Kansas as the paradise of the herdsman. And they wish it to be understood that it is Kansas City in Kansas that is the second largest live- stock market, and meat-packing center in the world. Special attention of late years has been given to the raising of alfalfa. In 1901, 320,000 acres were sown to that marvelously nutritious grass, that mocks at drought, and every other foe but hail. Kansas has magnificent orchards — apple, peach, plum, pear, and cherry. She has taken THE STATE OF KANSAS 115 the gold medal for her fruit at a National Pomo- logical Exhibit. Beneath her rich soil there lie inexhaustible beds of bituminous coal. In the vicinity of Galena and Empire City are the richest lead and zinc producing mines in the world. One- quarter of the zinc of the world is mined there. A salt bed 200 miles long, 60 miles wide, and 300 feet thick underlies a portion of the state, There is also a great stratum of dolomite, which is a fine building stone. And her supply of natural gas rivals that of Indiana, Ohio, or Pennsylvania. Nine thousand miles of railway network the state, and move her products. Only Illinois and Pennsylvania have a larger railroad mileage. New York, the Empire State, is considerably behind Kansas. When Kansas was made a state she had a population of 107,000. But she sent more soldiers into the Union armies than there were voters in the state when Sumter fell, and she exceeded all her quotas without either draft or bounty. Her population in 1900 was 1,470,495. The bulk of her people are on the farm, but she has several important and growing cities, nine of which have over 10,000 inhabitants. Cities grow where stunted birches Hugged the shallow water line, And the deepening rivers twine Past the factory and mine, Orchard slopes, and schools and churches. Il6 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE Generous provision is made for popular intel- ligence and morality. Kansas has 6,000 churches, and 40 colleges, academies, and private schools, maintained by various christian denominations. The public schools — graded and high — number 9,400. The State University is at Lawrence; the State Normal School at Emporia; and the State Agricultural College at Manhattan. Fine public libraries are found in all the cen- ters, while 830 newspaper publications are con- stantly ministering to public intelligence. The settlement and development of Kansas seems almost like a fairy tale. But twoscore years have gone by since she was admitted to the fellowship of States; at times the obstacles to her advancement seemed almost insurmount- able; and yet in this brief period she has shown the world what industry, thrift, intelligence, and morality can do in the creation of a great and commanding commonwealth. And it is not at all improbable that the achievements of the past will yet pale into insignificance before the com- pleted glory of the century to come. XXIV NEBRASKA MARCH i, 1867, was the date of Nebraska's admission to the Union, at which time Andrew Johnson was President. She was the thirty-seventh star in the flag's field of blue. Nebraska, the northern neighbor of Kansas and western neighbor of Iowa, possesses with them the general features of the boundless, rolling prairie; except that her surface is some- what more undulating than theirs. The eastern and central sections make one of the most fertile grain-growing districts on the continent. The section west of the one-hun- dredth meridian is the chief grazing country of the United States. This is the old-time Buffalo Land, where the American bison roamed by the hundred thousand thirty and more years ago. All sections of Nebraska are well watered. The Platte River runs through the center of the state from west to east the entire distance, form- ing a valley of great magnitude and beauty. The tributaries of the Platte and the Missouri water abundantly both the grain and grazing portions. The climate is delightful, healthful, and stim- ulating. The winters are comparatively brief, 117 n8 THE LOUISIANA TURCHASE and not so severe but that the great cattle herds may be kept out on the ranches. The summers are long and warm, but there is never a day of high temperature without its breeze, and hot nights are dissipated by the wind from the STATE CAPITOL AT LINCOLN, NEBRASKA Courtesy of Burlington Route Rockies in Colorado, bringing cooling and com- fort on its wings. But the autumn weather in Nebraska is ideal — four months of almost unbroken Indian sum- mer, hazy, restful, bountiful days, with panora- NEBRASKA IIQ mas of sunrise and sunset such as the prairies alone can give. The early settlers found everything at hand for easy, rapid, and successful development. There were no giant forests to be leveled, no cold wet land to be drained. "The wide rolling prairie was in waiting for the settler's coming, with its rich black alluvial soil that now, after forty years of production, requires no artificial stimulation. In most countries the word "soil" applies to the surface only. But in Nebraska, owing to its peculiar geological formation, the dirt is all soil, from the surface down to the rock, wherever it may lie. Every railroad cutting, and every digging of a well, make this manifest beyond dispute. So the exhaustion of the soil is not a problem for the Nebraskan farmer. The area of the state is 77,510 square miles. Of the improved land about one-half the acreage is given to the raising of corn. For the past ten years Nebraska has enjoyed the honor of being' one of the five foremost corn-producing states/ The corn crop of 1897 was a record breaker, being over 240,000,000 bushels. That year's yield placed her in the front rank for the first time. The wheat crop of 1900 was 31,000,000 bushels, the oat crop 37,000,000, and the potato crop 9,000,000. The crop of flaxseed was nearly 1,000,000 bushels. Great attention has been given to the cultiva- tion of the sugar beet, and it has proved surpris- ingly successful and profitable. The autumn 120 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE months of unbroken sunshine are eminently favorable to the ripening of beets, and especially to their acquirement of saccharine matter, which gives them their value. Three of the largest beet- WHERE CORN IS KING Courtesy of Burlington Route sugar factories in the country are located in the state. But this industry is as yet only in its infancy. Alfalfa is extensively raised, and is as great a success here as in neighboring states. Kearney has become wealthy through the crop of alfalfa from 32,000 acres in its immediate vicinity. The place had failed as a manufacturing center; but NEBRASKA 121 alfalfa has made the section one of the richest in the state. When Nebraska was first settled, it was tree- less, except for the timber that skirted the streams. But myriads of forest trees were SUGAR BgETS planted, and now groves of timber are abundant. Orchards and vineyards are very numerous in the eastern half of the state. Nebraska's livestock interests are very large. 122 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE In iqoo she had 640,000 horses, and over 2,000,000 cattle, and sent over 2,000,000 hogs to market. Besides her own sheep, which numbered 370,000, she pastured over 600,000 for the ranchmen. Some of her farmers have large flocks. Three important railways cross the state, reach- ing all but four of her counties. Nebraska has a greater mileage than the four states of Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, and Massachusetts, while New York state has only 2,000 more miles. The population has grown from 28,441 in i860, to 1,066,300 in 1900. The state has only three cities of over 10,000, Omaha, Lincoln, the capital, and South Omaha. Omaha, on the west bank of the Missouri, is a beautiful city of magnificent distances, with miles of excellent pavements, buildings of modern architecture, and every electric convenience. The public schools of the state are both numerous and well supported by land endow- ments. It is the pride of Nebraska that the United States census gives her the lowest per cent of illiteracy of any state in the Union. The State University and Agricultural College are located at Lincoln. Besides a State Normal School, there are thirty-five private and denomi- national universities, colleges, and academies. The people of Nebraska in every walk of life are evidently getting on in the world, citizens of a state enjoying exceptional prosperity, and with prospects of advancement that but few states can offer in larger measure. XXV COLORADO AFTER a territorial experience of fifteen years, Colorado was admitted as a state of the Union on August i, 1876, during the administration of President Grant. Admitted in the year of the National Centennial, she is fre- quently called "The Centennial State/' She was the eighth state to be formed out of the Louisiana Purchase, although less than one- half of her territory was included in that prov- ince. The Rockies were the western boundary of Louisiana, and only a little more than one- third of Colorado lies east of that majestic range. The total area of the state is 103,925 square miles. The eastern section is but a continuation of the prairies of Kansas and Nebraska. The exquisite panorama of prairie scenery extends from the eastern border to the foothills of the Rockies. Formerly the region between the Mis- souri and the mountains was spoken of as "The Great American Desert." But it was only await- ing the advent of the settler to make good its title to fertility Deficient rainfall is a drawback to eastern Colorado. The land is found to be exceedingly productive when water is supplied by irrigation, 123 COLORADO 125 and irrigation is made possible by the presence of several rivers and their numerous tributaries. The Arkansas and the two Plattes flow through this section, on their way from their fountains in the mountains. More than 3,000,000 acres of once arid land have already been rendered fer- tile by irrigating canals and ditches. A considerable amount of grain is raised on these irrigated lands. Large crops of the finest potatoes reward the planter. The best canta- loupe melons, the "Rocky Fords/' are grown in Otero County. These melons have for years supplied the Chicago market, and now are pop- ular in the markets of Philadelphia, New York, and Boston. The melon industry is very large, and increasing year by year. The sugar beet industry is attaining large pro- portions in Colorado. Three years ago the present site of Sugar City, about fifty miles east of Pueblo, was a barren waste. To-day it lies snugly in the midst of rich meadow lands, dotted with hundreds of farms on which thousands of tons of sugar beets are grown. It has 3,000 inhabitants, and has all the advantages of a mod- ern manufacturing town. The farmers are encouraged by offers of a liberal price to grow beets, and the acreage devoted to this industry is being increased each year. Cattle and sheep are raised in large numbers. The winters are usually mild enough for the herds and flocks to live on the open ranch. 126 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE Occasionally there are violent snowstorms, when many of the beasts are lost from cold or starva- tion; but such storms are sufficiently rare to lead the ranchers to take the risk. The plains in early spring are covered with beautiful flowers. There is a species of cactus with flowers as large as a saucer, and the tall and stately Yucca, with as many as seventy-five beau- tiful white and waxy blossoms. There is also a geranium whose little red flowers would grace any bay-window. The state flower is the purple columbine. The climate of the foothills, and even of the mountains, is very bracing and healthful. Many persons with pulmonary troubles can live in Colorado with comfort and delight. There are, also, famous mineral springs of great medicinal value. Mining is the chief source of the state's wealth. The two largest mining camps are Leadville and Cripple Creek. In a single year $25,000,000 worth of gold has been taken out of the state, of which Cripple Creek has furnished $10,000,000. Besides the precious metals, the state has large areas of anthracite and bituminous coal of great value. Colorado is well supplied with railroads, hav- ing nearly 4,500 miles in all. The major portion of the state is mountainous. The main chain of the Rockies traverses it, with majestic peaks, and great natural parks between them. Pike's Peak has an altitude of 14,147 feet COLORADO 127 above sea-level. It was discovered in 1806 by Lieut. Zebulon M. Pike, who had been sent out to survey that portion of the Louisiana Purchase, GARDEN OF THE GODS, NEAR COLORADO SPRINGS (PIKE'S PEAK IN THE DISTANCE) and was given his name. A cog railroad of nine miles reaches the summit, the ascent occupying three hours. The great parks — the Garden of the Gods, Estes Park, and San Luis Park — are indescri- bably beautiful. San Luis Park is 18,000 square miles in extent. 128 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE The population of Colorado is rather small when compared with her vast area. It is only 539,700, about one person to every two square miles. She has five cities with over 10,000 inhab- itants. Denver, the capital, and 5,200 feet above the sea, is said by many travelers to be the hand- somest city in the United States. It is certainly safe to say that it is among the handsomest. Its public buildings are models of modern architec- ture. Colorado is very largely an Anglo-Saxon state. It is true that she has 25,000 Mexicans within her borders, chiefly along the Rio Grande del Norte and Colorado rivers, and many thousand Scandi- navians, but her basic population is Anglo- Saxon. Thousands of New England homes have contributed to make her what she is, and all she is; while many other of the older sections have had their share in her remarkable develop- ment. Colorado spends more on her public schools than any other state, with the exception of Massachusetts. Her possibilities of enlargement are very great. She will always be a Mecca for the tourist because of her scenic grandeur. She will attract the sportsman because of her big game and her countless fishing resorts. The capitalist will not overlook her rich mines when seeking remunerative investments. And when the policy of irrigation, recently determined upon by Congress, shall be developed, her east- COLORADO I2Q ern plains will be dotted more and more with farmhouses, and with herds and flocks of incal- culable numbers and wealth. Her brief state life of twenty-seven years gives the most hopeful prophecy of what her future will be. XXVI NORTH DAKOTA THE Louisiana Purchase in its southernmost section is only as broad as a single state. But it gradually expands in breadth northward, until on the Canadian border it embraces the three states of Minnesota, North Dakota, and Montana. On the Gulf it is but 350 miles wide, while at the forty-ninth parallel it is 1,200 miles. North Dakota, the central of the three north- ern states formed out of the Purchase, was admitted to the Union on November 2, 1889, during the presidency of Benjamin Harrison. Its area is 70,795 square miles. By far the larger portion of the state is rolling prairie land. Along the eastern border is the Red River Val- ley, famous for its golden wheat lands. The central and northwestern sections are fine gra- zing lands, where, judging by the remains dis- covered here and there, the bison once roamed in countless numbers. The extreme southwest- ern portion is hilly and absolutely sterile, the "Bad Lands" or Mauvaises Terres of the early French trappers and hunters. The state is not lacking in rivers and streams. The Missouri cuts across it from the central-west to the central-south, and is navigable all the dis- tance. The Red River of the north is the east- 130 NORTH DAKOTA I3I ern boundary. The James and the Souris are also respectable streams. These four rivers with their tributaries, and with numerous lakes, fur- nish a good surface water supply. North Dakota has a deficient rainfall, but it may not be classified among the arid lands of the country so much as among the semi-humid. Irrigation is a necessity, especially to the western half of the state, to bring out its full fertility. A beginning has been made in storing the sur- plus waters of the Missouri in flood time, and letting them in on the parched land when needed, and the results secured have been highly bene- ficial. The black loam readily responds to irri- gation. The climate is very healthful, the air dry, pure, and invigorating. The winters are cold, but because of the dryness of the air the cold is not so severe either on man or beast as in other states, where the temperature is much higher, but the humidity much greater. Cattle and sheep are on the open ranges in winter. The "Dakota blizzard" is much rarer than is com- monly supposed. There are copious rains in the spring and early summer, and the plains are carpeted with beautiful flowers. The wild rose has been selected as the state flower, because of its abun- dance and beauty. It is the second rains that the state needs, and that it will doubtless have.when the plains have ceased to be as treeless as at present. NORTH DAKOTA I 33 North Dakota is an agricultural state. Its population of 319,146 is to be found chiefly on its farms. It has no city with 10,000 people, although Fargo is very near that limit, with 9,589. Bismarck, on the Missouri, is the capital. Wheat is the staple crop of the state. The six counties bordering the Red River raise the bulk of the wheat: Cass, 7,000,000 bushels; Grand Forks, Traill, and Walsh, about 4,000,000 each; Pembina, 3,500,000; and Richland, 3,000,000. Here are found the famous bonanza farms, which in harvest look like a sea of gold. The largest of these was 65,000 acres; but it is being broken up into smaller holdings. Fully 22,000,- 000 bushels of oats were raised in a recent year; with 25,000,000 bushels of flaxseed and 2,250,000 bushels of potatoes. Fruit culture is as yet only in its infancy. In 1900 the cattle numbered 632,000, besides 125,000 milch cows; horses, 325,000; and sheep, 700,000, furnishing 3,000,000 pounds of wool. The poultry produced 7,500,000 dozen eggs. The railways have made North Dakota. Three great trunk lines traverse the state from boun- dary to boundary, and other roads have import- ant branches. In all, there are 3,031 miles of railway. The Indians in the state are gathered into reservations. They are nearly all of the Sioux stock, and were known formerly as Dakotas — '"Dakota" meaning "allied." The Mandans once owned the region of Dakota, but the powerful 134 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE Sioux dispossessed them. After the fearful Sioux massacres of 1863, the Government settled them in the reservations, and established agencies among them. At present, most of the Indians wear citizen's dress, but few of them speak the English tongue. An increasing number cultivate the land, and raise cattle; but the majority still receive Government rations. North Dakota prides herself on the fact that — barring the Indians — she has the smallest per- centage of illiteracy of any of the states. Well-equipped libraries are established in all her urban communities, and 1 50 newspapers are pub- lished in the state. She has more than 3,000 public schools. The State University is at Grand Forks, and the Agricultural College at Fargo. Promising denominational colleges are located at Fargo, Jamestown, and Wahpeton. The settlement of North Dakota is one of the marvels of our time. One of the first efforts she and South Dakota — which in 1861 were united in the Territory of Dakota — were called upon to make was the raising of a company of cavalry for the Union Army, and there were scarcely enough white settlers to fill the quota. But afterward the migration to her fertile plains set in, and to-day she stands among her sister states happy in the successes already achieved, and with radiant hope for the future. She is busy with her vast wheat fields, with her flax culture, with the immense herds of cat- tle on her ranches, with her mines of lignite NORTH DAKOTA 1 35 coal — 20,000 square miles in extent — and in build- ing her cities and her institutions of learning, religion and philanthropy. She had but a small portion of the nineteenth century in which to do so great a work, but the twentieth century will find it carried on to a grand completion. XXVII SOUTH DAKOTA THE Dakotas are twin states, having been admitted to the Union on the same date — November 2, 1889. The forty-sixth parallel of latitude was selected as the boundary line be- tween them. In area South Dakota is somewhat larger than its northern sister, embracing 77,650 square miles. The Missouri River as it crosses the state from north to south near the center divides it into two very different sections. The eastern half is a vast undulating plain, only occasionally broken by gentle hills. But west of the Missouri the surface becomes more rugged, with many buttes, or abrupt hills, in the northern corner, and the wild and elevated region of the Black Hills in the southern corner. The eastern section is almost entirely agricul- tural. Considerable wheat is raised, but not so much as in the Red River Valley of North Dakota. But the corn crop is much more abundant than there. The state is fairly well watered, although it must be reckoned as in the semi-humid belt. Rains are copious in spring and early summer, but in the later summer and autumn they are rather scant. SOUTH DAKOTA 137 Yet water is plentiful because of the large pos- sible artesian supply. Almost the entire state is underlaid by the Dakota sandstone, which is more or less saturated with water. Several artesian wells have a flow of from 2,000 to 4,500 gallons a minute. Such wells are used largely for irrigation, and in some instances they furnish water enough to drive flour-mills. Besides the Missouri, which is navigable over all its course within the state, there are several other large streams, as the Cheyenne, the White, and the Dakota River, and these with their tributaries serve vast sections of the prairie and grazing lands. The grasses on the alluvial lands beside the streams are very abundant and nutritious. The livestock industry is extensive, and con- stantly growing. There are 1,275,000 cattle in the state, besides 270,000 milch cows; 435,000 horses; 823,000 hogs; and 775,000 sheep, which produce 3,250,000 pounds of wool. The cattle sold for the shambles in 1900 were worth $14,- 000,000. The dairy interests produce 10,500,000 pounds of butter annually, while 17,500,000 dozen eggs are shipped in the year. The crop yield is a significant commentary on the fertility of the soil: Wheat, 42,000,000 bushels; corn, 32,000,000; oats, 19,000,000; flax- seed, 2,500,000; potatoes, 3,000,000; and hay, 2,250,000 tons. There are 318,000 fruit trees in bearing — 138 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE apples, plums, and cherries being the chief fruits produced at present. The fine railway service in the state makes the larger markets easily accessible. The Black Hills form one of the most singular features of the entire Louisiana Purchase. They r ' '•■''■' •■"■ J&c' k- > ■^2"*— • ~~ • - ;, ^ ". ' U&sftZt*^*^*. - ;v •***» t * : •^ mi ■9m IBPSSBI , 4 WM l ' V-:- Wr .. .. ' .... ...... ~v-J- ..,,„- ■^ - ON A CATTLE RANCH Courtesy of Burlington Route have long been, and still remain, a puzzle to geologists. Rising abruptly from the level sur- face of the prairie is this series of hills about 120 miles long by 60 miles wide. The highest peak has an altitude of about 7,400 feet above sea- level. The general altitude is from 3,500 to 6,500 feet. SOUTH DAKOTA 1 39 It is said that ten of the geological ages are represented in the rock formation of this won- derland; scientists affirm that but two of the universal organic elements are lacking there, and that this condition does not exist anywhere else in the world. Almost every kind of mineral is to be found there — gold, silver, copper, iron, lead, nickel, tin, graphite, mica, etc. The coal necessary to the smelting has, however, to be brought from Wyoming. Tin ore has been found that surpasses the ore of the famous tin mines of Cornwall. The dis- covery of the tin deposits of the Black Hills has practically placed the tin-plate industry of America on an independent basis. Wolframite mined there is used in making the best qualities of crucible steel; and so valuable is it for this hardening process, that it brings $300 a ton. Stalagmites from the great caves have been sawed and polished, and are almost as beautiful as Mexican onyx. But gold is the chief production of these mines. The first discovery of this precious metal was made in 1874, but it was not until 1876 that the mines began to produce. For the twenty-four years between that time and 1900 the yield of gold has been $110,000,000. In 1900 the output was $10,000,000. Here may be found some of the most curious names in all mining nomenclature: The city of 140 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE Deadwood, the Golden Gate Mining Company, Kicking Horse Shaft, Deadbroke Mine, Calamity Gulch Mine, Golden Reward Mine, Holy Terror Stamp Mill, and others. The Homestake Mine is the monarch of the region. It employs 2,200 men in all, pays $200,- 000 a month in wages, and thus supports a town of 8,000 people. In twenty-three years it has taken out $65,000,000 of gold, and has paid $9,000,000 in dividends to its stockholders. It has $98,000,000 worth of ore in sight, the ore lead being 450 feet wide, and the amount handled daily being 2,800 tons. Every mining compar- ison in the Black Hills is made by this famous mine. South Dakota has a population of 401,570, with only one city, Sioux Falls, of over 10,000 inhabitants. Pierre is the capital. Her people are largely of American stock. In her foreign- born population are Scandinavians, Finns, and Russian Mennonites — strong elements in her citizen body. The provisions for education are of the best. Not only is every district provided with a school, but the higher education is generously sustained in a State University at Vermilion, a State Nor- mal School at Spearfish, and a School of Mines at Rapid City. There are also denominational institutions. There are five Indian reservations in the state, with a total area of 15,600 square miles. With the exception of a band of Algonquins, all SOUTH DAKOTA 141 the Indians are of the Sioux, or Dakota, stock. Many of them have adopted citizen's dress, are working their lands, and are large cattle owners. XXVIII THE STATE OF MONTANA THE names of Benjamin Harrison as Presi- dent and James G. Blaine as Secretary of State, were affixed to that important document which, on November 8, 1889, proclaimed as com- plete the admission of Montana as a state into the Union. Montana was the eleventh state to be created out of the Louisiana Purchase, although, to be accurate, only about two-thirds of the state was included in that province— the' portion that lay east of the Rockies. But Montana must be treated as Congress bounded it, prairies and mountains together. It has the vast area of 146,080 square miles, exceeded in size only by Texas and California. Everything in Montana is on a scale colossal. Its mountain peaks range from 8,000 to 11,000 feet in height. From the eastern foothills of the Rockies go forth the Jefferson, the Gallatin, and the Madison rivers, to unite in forming the mighty Missouri, which in its tortuous course will flow 6,000 miles before its waters mingle with the Gulf of Mexico. Its treeless plains are vast, stretching hundreds of miles in unvarying landscape. Its flocks are enormous, for 6,000,000 sheep feed on its farms and ranches. Its mines 142 THE STATE -0¥~MONTANA I43 are many and rich, producing the precious metals in quantities that can scarcely be made real to the ordinary mind. About three-fifths of the state is a continua- tion of the Great Central Plains. It is a monot- onous, undulating expanse, rising gradually about 2,000 feet from the Dakota border to the foot of the mountains. Except along the border of the streams, the monotony is not relieved by a tree. Vast stretches of coarse grass are every- where, except where some sturdy farmer has built his home, and turned his furrow. But the farmer must be lonesome, for by the last census there -were only 13,000 farms in all the state. The region is classified by the Geological Sur- vey as among the arid sections of the country. The lofty mountains attract and largely retain the rain clouds from the west, so that the section to the east of them has but a meager rainfall. Irrigation is an absolute necessity in many places, but it is also possible. The time is not far dis- tant when the surplus waters of the rivers in spring will be stored, and the abundant water of the underflow will be tapped, to irrigate millions of acres and make them fertile. The climate of Montana is, for tlve most part, salubrious and enjoyable. The Chinook winds coming from the warm Japanese current in the Pacific temper what would otherwise be a bleak and chilly air. The winters are much milder th^n in Minnesota or Wisconsin. THie changes in temperature are sometimes < Q w Q « H a o THE STATE OF MONTANA 1 45 violent, and the snowstorms severe; though the snow does not lie long on the plains. These are times of peril to the livestock on the ranches, as they have no shelter. Sometimes the herdsmen lose from 30 to 40 per cent of their cattle and sheep on the exposed plains. The agricultural lands are divided into bottom lands, which have a very rich alluvial soil; bench lands, which have a sandy loam that is excellent for farming; and high bluff lands, which are suitable only for grazing. Compared with that of other states, the agri- culture of Montana is but in its beginnings. Yet she has nearly 1,000,000 cattle, 300,000 horses, and 6,000,000 sheep, the wool clip from which in 1899 amounted to 30,000,000 pounds. She also raised 5,000,000 bushels of oats, 2,000,000 of wheat, 1,300,000 of potatoes, and 1,000,000 tons of hay. In her orchards there are half a million apple trees. Coal lands are said to underlie 30,000 square miles of her surface, but coal mining is not yet carried on in an extensive way. Placer gold was first discovered in 1861 in the vicinity of Helena, and in 1863 the rich dis- trict of Alder Gulch was found, and at once miners and adventurers from everywhere flocked to the diggings. Quartz mining succeeded this, and is pursued to the present. Simultaneously with the discovery of gold came the finding of silver and copper in large quantities, and Mon- tana speedily became a mining state. The names 146 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE of her mines have become famous in every Stock Exchange in the world. The census of 1900 gives the population of Montana as 243,329, but a trifle under a quarter of a million. Three cities are over the 10,000 mark: Helena, the capital, Great Falls, and Butte. The public buildings of the cities — the capitol, the schools, and the libraries, etc. —are models of modern architecture. One-tenth of the area of the state is taken up by Indian reservations. Montana has had its troubles with the Redman. That, which thrilled the country the most was what has been called 'The Custer Massacre" in 1875. Five thousand Sioux Indians, led by Sitting Bull, completely vanquished General Custer and his troopers — the Seventh U. S. Cavalry — in a sanguinary bat- tle on the Little Big Horn. The brave and daring leader and 261 of his officers and men were killed in the fight. A stately monument to Custer marks the spot to-day. Many of the Indians on all the reservations are working their farms and keeping large droves of cattle. Perhaps the Crow reservation is the most pro- gressive, as it is by far the largest. The Indians of this agency have 35,000 ponies running wild on the ranches, but they are of very inferior- breed. The Crow Indians are good farmers, and are taking to farming more and more kindly with every decade. The Crows have one of the finest, largest, and . THE STATE OF MONTANA I47 most expensive irrigation systems in the United States, the work being done by themselves under the guidance of United States engineers, and the expense borne by themselves out of their annuity funds. The Crows also own a steam-power flouring mill, and from their own wheat crop produced enough flour during the last census year to sup- ply all their own needs, besides selling 450,000 pounds to the Cheyenne Indians, and the Gov- ernment school and agency. As the communal system shall lessen its hold upon them, and individual interest and responsi- bility come to be felt more widely, the Indians of Montana will make a more rapid march to the civilization which, already they have come to learn, will be vastly more to their advantage in every way. XXIX WYOMING OF the twelve states whose territory was included in the Louisiana Purchase the last to be admitted to the Union was Wyoming. It fell to the lot of President Harrison to com- plete and proclaim the admission of six new states, and Wyoming was the sixth. She was admitted July 10, 1890. This state, the youngest of twelve fair sisters, had a fine dowry at the time of her nuptials, for her domain embraced 97,890 square miles. True, much of it was mountainous, but there were at least 10,000,000 acres of fine timber on her hills, which in itself is a valuable asset. And from the foot of the mountains go forth large streams— the Green, the Shoshone, the Big Horn, and the North Platte — to make fertile her far-reach- ing plains. Wyoming has at the very least 10,000,000 acres of plain and bench land suitable for farming, and specially so if it can be assisted by irrigation. For here, as elsewhere in the Central West, the rainfall is not equal to the land's demands. The mountains monopolize the rainfall at the expense of the plains. But when the irrigation canals and ditches shall have been opened, the detained moisture of the mountains will be made to serve 148 WYOMING 149 the valley and the prairie. And experts have said that one acre of that irrigated western land is fully the equivalent of four acres in other states where the rainfall is copious. Few states have a more bracing, healthful, or pleasant climate than Wyoming. It has almost constant sunshine. So dry and pure is the air that mountain peaks may be seen at a distance of fifty to seventy-five miles. The winters are not so severe but that the cattle and sheep may remain on the open ranch unsheltered. Washington Irving, in his "Adventures of Cap- tain Bonneville," makes Arapooish, a Crow chief, say of the Wyoming country: "The Crow country is in exactly the right place. It has snowy mountains and sunny plains, all kinds of climates, and good things in every season. When the summer heats scorch the prairies you can draw up under the mountains, where the air is sweet and cool, the grass fresh, and the bright streams come tumbling out of the snow- banks. . . . There is no country like the Crow country. . . . Everything good is to be found there." The youthful state has only 6,095 farms as yet. But they are fine farms, in extent at least; their average size being 1,300 acres. Wyoming has 85,000 horses, 360,000 cattle, and over 5,000,000 sheep. She is one of the three foremost sheep states of the Union. Valuable mineral deposits are found in the mountains — gold, silver, copper, and lead. Tin I50 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE is found in the Black Hills region in the north- eastern portion of the state. Her iron deposits are not second to those of any other state. In the vicinity of Guernsey there are as fine and as extensive deposits of Bessemer steel ores as are to be found anywhere in the world. Coal fields extend over an area of 20,000 square miles. Much of the coal is bituminous, while there are also seams of lignite and semi- anthracite. The presence of iron ores and coal in such abundance, and the fact that eighteen petroleum oil fields are known, have led many to speak of Wyoming as "The Pennsylvania of the West." One of the present drawbacks to the develop- ment of the state is the lack of railways. An important trunk line crosses the entire state, but in its extreme southern portion. Another road cuts across the northeastern corner, on its way from Nebraska to Montana. But all the central part of the state is without a railway. Hugedoads of wool drawn by sixteen horses or twenty-four mules have to traverse one hundred or more miles to reach the railroad. This is expensive work. But in time the railway branches will network the interior, as in other states. Wyoming is paying the most careful attention to her school system She has only 92,531 people in all her borders, and many of them are widely scattered. Cheyenne, the capital, is the 152 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE only city of over 10,000 inhabitants. To be exact, the population of Cheyenne is 14,087. But the policy of the state, crystallized into a statute, is to found a school wherever there are five pupils to attend it. A State University has been established at Laramie, and a military col- lege at Cody City, of which Colonel Cody — "Buffalo Bill" — is president. The Wyoming people are proud of the fact that on the outbreak of the Spanish-American War, one thousand young men enlisted, and among them all there was not one who was with- out a fair education. There is but one Indian reservation in the state, the Shoshone, in the west-central part. The tribes on the reservation are the Snake Indians and the Arapahoes, about two thousand in all. Both tribes are peaceable and industrious, and their progress toward civilization is steady and perceptible. They have all adopted citizen's clothing, and the majority have abandoned the life of the tepee, and erected comfortable log houses. They have a large number of ponies on the open ranges, and an Indian's position is deter- mined by the number of ponies he possesses. The Yellowstone Park — "the Northern Won- derland" — will always aid in making the name of Wyoming widely known. It is situated in the northwest corner of the state, and is sixty-two miles long, by fifty-four miles wide. It was reserved as a National Park, by Act of Con- gress, in 1872. WYOMING 153 The scenic beauty of this region is not dupli- cated anywhere on the globe. The most elo- quent tongue is unable adequately to portray the weirdness and sublimity and beauty of this vast playground of 3,575 square miles. Here there are mountain ranges with peaks from 10,000 to 12,000 feet high. The Yellow- stone Lake is 22 miles long and from 12 to 15 miles wide — a great reservoir for the mountain streams. Out of it flows the Yellowstone River, which has two magnificent cataracts, one with a fall of 140 feet, and the other 330 feet high. The Grand Canon of the Yellowstone is 20 miles long, with perpendicular walls from 200 to 500 feet in height, and the rocks of every con- ceivable color. The scenic effect is indescribably grand. Of the Grand Canon of the Yellowstone Rudyard Kipling writes: "All that I can say is that without warning or preparation I looked into a gulf 1,700 feet deep, with eagles and fish- hawks circling far below. And the sides of that gulf were one wild welter of color — crimson, emerald, cobalt, ochre, amber, honey splashed with port wine, snow-white, vermilion, lemon and silver-gray in wide washes. The sides did not fall sheer, but were graven by time and water and air into monstrous heads of kings, dead chiefs — men and women of the old time. So far below that no sound of its strife could reach us, the Yellowstone River ran, a finger-wide strip of jade green. 154 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE "The sunlight took those wondrous walls and gave fresh hues to those that nature had already laid there. "Evening crept through the pines that shad- owed us, but the full glory of the day flamed in that canon as we went out very cautiously to a jutting piece of rock — blood-red or pink it was — that overhung the deepest deeps of all. "Now I know what it is to sit enthroned amid the clouds of sunset as the spirits sit in Blake's pictures. Giddiness took* away all sensation of touch or form, but the sense of blinding color remained. "When I reached the main land again I had sworn that I had been floating." XXX INDIAN TERRITORY AS EARLY as 1824 President Monroe sug- gested to Congress the advisability of removing the Indians scattered among the states east of the Mississippi, and placing them in a territory all their own somewhere in the Louisi- ana Purchase. He affirmed that there were three dangers in leaving them in their former locations: (1) the danger of friction between the general govern- ment and the various state governments in controlling them; (2) the danger of their con- tamination from dissolute characters; and (3) the danger of broils between them and the white settlers. Congress thought well of the President's sug- gestions, and endeavored to realize them. A part of the Louisiana Purchase was secured, and on June 30, 1834, the Indian Territory was duly constituted. The consent of the Indians being secured, tribe after tribe was transferred to the new territory, in which the Indians were to have sovereign rights, the control to be vested in the councils of the various tribes. The Indian Territory at the time of its institu- tion was a very large section, embracing the territory of the present and the Territory of 155 156 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE Oklahoma, which was afterward set apart by itself. But it is of the Indian Territory as it exists to-day that mention must be made. It is con- siderably less than one-half of the original Indian section, the area being only 31,400 square miles. Its surface is generally a succession of fertile, well-watered, and rolling prairies, with consider- able timber areas, and rich bottom lands along the rivers and streams. Toward the northeast the surface is broken by the foothills of the Ozark Mountains. The Arkansas River cuts across the territory on its way from Kansas to Arkansas, the north and south forks of the Canadian River flow through the central portion, and the Red River forms its southern boundary. These rivers with their many tributaries abundantly water the prairies, and their bottom lands are the finest corn and oat lands in the territory. The last census gives some interesting facts concerning agriculture. There are 45,505 farms in the territory, that with the buildings are worth $47,000,000. The livestock is valued at $41,000,000. The cattle number 1,500,000, hogs 650,000, and horses and mules on the farms and ranges about 275,000. The crops raised in the census year were: Corn, 30,000,000 bushels; wheat, 2,250,000; oats, 4,500,- 000; hay, 500,000 tons, and cotton 155,000 bales. There are more than a million fruit trees. These figures would naturally suggest that the INDIAN TERRITORY 157 Indians are good farmers. But the fact is that white farmers predominate throughout the ter- ritory, though they are usually only tenants of INDIAN WOMAN OF THE KIOWA TRIBE the Indians, The Indians may legally lease their lands, but the lands cannot be transferred in fee. So the whit§ farmers, as a rule, simply 158 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE lease the Indian holdings, or work them for the owners on shares. Up to recent times, the land was not held by- individual Indians, but by the several tribes. At present, the attempt is being made to extinguish the tribal titles, and have them transferred to the individual Indian citizens. This is usually known as taking up the land in severalty, and this desirable plan is now being worked out by the Dawes Indian Commission. What is sought is to make a farmer-citizen of the Indian, rather than leave him subject to the tribal regulations. At present, there are three classes of land owners in the territory. 1. Indians, of undoubted Indian lineage, and who specially have adopted the plan of the Dawes Commission, and have taken up land in severalty. 2. Negroes, who are the descendants of slaves held by the Indians of the territory before emancipation. These were adopted into the Indian tribes, and are thus Indians by adoption, and as such are entitled to own land. 3. Whites, some of whom married Indian women, and were adopted into the tribes; others who possessed themselves of lands fraudulently, and have never been dispossessed; and still others who bought lands before the transfer of land was forbidden by act of Congress. The disquieting fact about the present situa- tion is that the whites in large numbers are in the Indian Territory, either as owners or lessees. INDIAN TERRITORY I5Q And the question will not down as to whether they will not, in time, secure the territory for themselves, as other whites have secured Okla- homa. Two large railway systems run directly across the Indian Territory from north to south, and make the principal grain and cattle markets easily accessible to her products. The territory has a population of 392,060. There are no cities, but several populous towns. Many of the Indian tribes are highly civilized, especially the Cherokees, Creeks, Choctaws, Chickasaws, and Seminoles. They wear citizen's dress, in many instances speak the Saxon lan- guage, and have fine schools — common, high, and manual training schools. They have, also, some strong and influential churches. Whatever problems the territory may have for the nation to solve, there are elements of hopefulness in the situation that are most encouraging to all who are interested in the Indian problem. XXXI OKLAHOMA WHEN in 1834, during the administration of President Jackson, the Indian Terri- tory was set apart as the reservation of the Red- man, the promise was made that it should be his u as long as grass grows or zvater runs!' This promise was a great aid to the Government in securing the consent of the tribes to make the territory their home. But in the course of years the longing eyes of the whites began to look toward the virgin lands of the reservation, and steps were taken to secure a part of it, if possible, for white settle- ment. The building of railway lines through the territory made the whites more familiar with its fertility, and more covetous of it as a home. It came to be considered, as W. R. Draper has styled it, "a veritable paradise for white people." Vast cornfields, cotton plantations, and cattle ranches were thought of as among its possi- bilities. We will not enter into the details by which it was accomplished, nor discuss the merits or demerits of the case; the fact is that by Govern- ment action more than one-half of the former Indian Territory was purchased from the tribes resident in it, and out of this purchase the Ter- 160 OKLAHOMA l6l ritory of Oklahoma — "the Beautiful Land" — was duly formed. A territorial government was established on May 2, 1890, while Benjamin Harrison was occupying the chief Chair of State. Oklahoma to-day has an area of 39,030 square miles. It consists of beautiful rolling prairies, through which course several large streams with numerous tributaries, making it a thoroughly well-watered region. The rainfall is ample, and severe droughts are almost unknown. The soil is very rich, the deep, black loam of the prairie sections. In the eastern half there are considerable areas of timber, chiefly differ- ent varieties of oak, and fine belts of forest along the banks of the streams. The ''boomers," as they were called from the way in which they settled Oklahoma, were almost entirely of American birth. The popula- tion according to the last census was 398,331, and 95 per cent were American born. The settlement of the territory was made in a manner so rapid as to astonish the nation. In a single da}' town sites were laid out that would in time accommodate thousands of citizens. The first day there was printed the first issue of a daily paper that remains an influential journal to the present. Progressive business centers have grown up, with banks, schools, churches, electric lighting, in fact, with all the features of modern urban civilization. Among these are Guthrie, the cap- l62 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE ital, Oklahoma City, Perry, Kingfisher, Still- water, and El Reno. Guthrie has a population of 10,006, and Oklahoma City, 10,037. The great railway systems facilitated the set- tlement and development of the territory, bring- ing Oklahoma into close touch with the Gulf on the south, the Pacific Coast on the west, and St. Louis, Kansas City, and Chicago on the north. To-day Oklahoma is in easy contact with the world. She ships castor beans to Europe, pea- nuts to Paris, cedar logs. for pencils to Germany, eggs to London, Kaffir corn to Holland, and watermelons to the large American cities. During the Boer War she shipped large num- bers of horses and mules to South Africa for the British Army. In 1900 her fertile areas raised 25,000,000 bushels of wheat and 60,000,000 bushels of corn. The same year she produced 12,000,000 bushels of oats, and 125,000 bales of cotton worth $5,000,000. She sent out 400 carloads of melons, some 90 pounds in weight, and half a million bushels of peaches, besides great numbers of apples and cherries. She has raised plums in large quan- tities. The territory is very rich in livestock. It has 300,000 horses and mules, 250,000 hogs, and over a million cattle. Churches are found in every community, and 65,500 of the people are enrolled as members of the different church organizations. OKLAHOMA 1 63 Oklahoma has an enrollment of 85,000 pupils in her public schools. The University of Oklahoma is located at Norman, the Agricultural and Mechanical College at Stillwater, and normal schools at Edmond and Alva. The Langston University, with agricultural and manual training features, is for the colored race. Schools for the Indians within her borders also are provided; foremost among these is the Chilocco Industrial School in Kay County. Mr. Andrew Carnegie has given the territory a beautiful public library building, which is located at Oklahoma City. As a sign of the general intelligence of the people, it may be stated that there are in the territory 172 publications in all — daily, weekly, monthly, and quarterly. Nothing more romantic in the peopling of the vast central prairies of the country has ever been seen than the settlement of Oklahoma. It was one of the transformations that have become historic. In a single decade the wide fertile stretches along the Cimarron, Canadian, and Red rivers, where the Indian tribes formerly roamed and hunted, became settled by a thrifty and progressive people, rich in grain fields and herds, rich in rural and urban communities, and rich in churches and schools. Such a people are surely destined in the near future to reach the fulfillment of their ardent hopes, in being admitted to the Union as a state. XXXII FIGURES THAT REFUSE TO BE OVERLOOKED THE important place in the Union occupied by the twelve states and two territories carved out of the original Louisiana Purchase is made clear by some statistics that cannot, in the interest of completeness, be passed by. The figures must be given, even though the full appreciation of their significance may be an effort to which only the mind of an expert is equal. The figures are for the last census year, 1900. These twelve states and two territories pro- duced for that year 264,000,000 bushels of wheat, at a value of $152,000,000. This wheat produc- tion was more than one-half the entire wheat crop of the United States. Their corn crop was still larger — 1,013,000,000 bushels, with a value of $314,000,000. This was nearly one-half the crop of the entire country. Of oats they produced 311,000,000 bushels, worth $71,000,000. Their yield of barley was worth $10,000,000; of rye, $2,000,000; of potatoes, $25,000,000; of cotton, $50,000,000; and of hay, $130,000,000. The total value of their agricultural products was $755,000,000. Their wool product amounted to over 100,000,- 000 pounds, or 35 per cent of the total wool pro- 164 FIGURES THAT REFUSE TO BE OVERLOOKED 165 duction of the country. The value of the wool was about $15,000,000. This was equal to the price paid ft r the Purchase. The value of the farm animals in these states in 1900 was $835,000,000. Taking the total value of their various prod- ucts from the farm for a single year, it may be safely estimated that it amounts to more than one hundred times the original cost of the area. In other words, just one-hundredth part of the farm products of each recurring year is enough to meet the cost to the United States of the original Purchase. But the farm products are not all. The prod- uct of the mines also is very great. The coal mines of this area yielded 22,000,000 tons; 8,500,- 000 tons of ore were taken from the rich iron mines; the value of the silver product was $50,000,000, and of gold nearly $38,000,000. The prosperity shown by the preceding figures is further evidenced by the banking institutions of this section. Their capital stock in 1900 was over $80,000,000, their loans and discounts were $317,000,000, and their total resources were $1,100,000,000. The individual deposits in the national banks amounted to $330,000,000. This would be an average deposit of $22 for every man, woman, and child in the area of the Pur- chase. The educational conditions show an equally gratifying development. The pupils enrolled in the public schools of these states in question l66 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE numbered 3,161,000 in 1900, with a corps of 102,000 teachers. The expenditure for these schools was $37,000,000. The pupils in high schools numbered 114,000; in normal schools, nearly 16,000; and at the higher educational institutions, 40,000. The number of newspapers and periodicals published in this area in 1900 was 5,618. It were invidious, perhaps, to specify names, but several newspapers of this section are of national impor- tance. The number of post offices is 16,288. It is equally true to say that this area has made the railroads, and that the railroads have made it. Nearly 60,000 miles of railway were in operation in this section in 1900, or 31 per cent of the total railway mileage of the country. The importance of this vast area — with its 15,000,000 people, its enormous agricultural and mineral resources, and its splendid institu- tions of learning — it is impossible adequately to interpret. If in one century such achievements have been made, what prophet dare predict that which another century may do for it? Note. — The statistics given in Chapters XVIII to XXXII, inclu- sive, are taken from the following authorities: Areas — Frye's, and Redway and Hinman's geographies. Population — Twelfth U. S. Census Reports. Productions, figures relating to schools, etc. — State publications. XXXIII PLANS FOR THE CENTENNIAL CELEBRATION BEGINNING with the Centennial celebra- tion of 1876 in Philadelphia, anniversaries of the leading events in the history of the United States have been duly observed. And following them came the observance on an imposing scale of the four hundredth anniver- sary of the discovery of this continent by Colum- bus, in the great Exposition at Chicago in 1893. Yet there remains one other centennial of national importance to be appropriatelyobserved, that of the acquisition of the Louisiana Purchase. The public prints have of late years suggested that the holding of expositions is being over- done; that in some cases there is no apparent justification for such celebrations; and that the American people are losing interest in them. But no such suggestion has been made regarding the Louisiana Purchase Exposition. An event that added so large and so rich a sec- tion to the national domain — a section that because of its teeming products is so vital to the country's commerce and comfort, and that already contains one-fifth of the population of the republic — patriots could not and would not allow to pass without an observance in some measure commensurate with its importance. 167 1 68 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE While primarily the celebration belongs to the states and territories included in the area of the Purchase; and while their influence and par- ticipation may properly be predominant in it; yet the entire country may fitly share in it, as the Purchase was a national event. It was in the early days of the American Republic's existence. ADMINISTRATION BUILDING AT THE WORLD'S FAIR, ST. LOUIS and in its experience of poverty, that it concluded the bargain with France which in the course of a single century has proved as profitable an investment as the United States has ever made. The history of the steps already taken reveals the profound interest in the proposed centennial celebration on the part of the President and Congress, As early as January 2, 1899, a bill was PLANS FOR THE CENTENNIAL CELEBRATION l6Q introduced in the House of Representatives by Mr. Joy of St. Louis, and in the Senate by Senator Cockrell of Missouri, providing for an appropriation by Congress of $5,000,000 toward the proposed Louisiana Purchase Expo- sition. The bill was favorably reported, and was passed by the House of Representatives on Feb- ruary 9, 1901. On March 4, 1901, at 5:15 a. m. — although it was still March 3d by the Sen- ate clock — the bill was passed by the Senate, and was immediately signed by President McKinley. Nor was this act of the President, in signing the bill, simply perfunctory. His interest in the pro- posed exposition was profound and generous. Delegations from St. Louis in 1899 had visited Washington at his invitation, to consult with him about the celebration, and he pledged them his heartiest cooperation. During his tour of the West in the autumn of that year, he made repeated references to the proposed exposition, and assured the people of his deep personal interest in its success. The President issued a proclamation on August 20, 1901, naming the date of the exposi- tion, and cordially inviting all nations to partici- pate in it. As this was the last proclamation he made, a peculiar and pathetic interest attaches to it. The following is the important part of the proclamation; 17O THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE Now, therefore, I, William McKinley, President of the United States, ... do hereby declare and pro- claim that such International Exhibition will be opened in the City of St. Louis, in the State of Missouri, not later than the first day of May, 1903, and will be closed not later than first day of December thereafter. And in the name of the Government and of the people of the United States, I do hereby invite all the nations of the earth to take part in the commemoration of the purchase of the Louisiana Territory, an event of great interest to the United States, and of abiding effect upon their development, by appointing representatives, and sending such exhibits to the Louisiana Purchase Exposition as will most fitly and fully illustrate their resources, their industries, and their progress in civili- zation. September 5, 1901, President McKinley made his last address at the Pan-American Exposition at Buffalo, in which he alluded eloquently to ex- positions as "the timekeepers of progress." The following day, Mr. Francis of St. Louis wired a message to President McKinley, thanking him for his kindly allusion to expositions, and in return received the appalling tidings that Mr. McKinley had been shot by an assassin. But though the exposition lost a most valued friend by Mr. McKinley' s untimely death, it was to find another friend in his successor. In his message to Congress President Roosevelt bespoke the most cordial support for the com- memoration of the Purchase. On December 20, 1901, ground-breaking cere- PLANS FOR THE CENTENNIAL CELEBRATION 171 monies were held on the exposition site. A bitter wind, and a temperature of 15 below zero, com- pelled an abandonment of the proposed parade; but the exercises in the Coliseum, and the ban- quet in the Southern Hotel, were held amid intense enthusiasm. It was afterward found to be advantageous to postpone the opening of the exposition to May, 1904. Congress agreed to the postponement, and at the same time made an appropriation of over a million dollars for the United States Gov- ernment Building and exhibits. It also provided for a special issue of gold souvenir dollars on behalf of the Exposition Company. These measures received the signature of President Roosevelt on June 26, 1902. XXXIV DEDICATORY CEREMONIES BY CONGRESSIONAL provision, the dedi- cation of the exposition buildings- and grounds was to be observed with appropriate ceremonies on April 30, 1903 — the one-hundredth anniversary of the signing of the Treaty in Paris, by which the United States acquired the Province ot Louisiana. When the day arrived, a large and notable company was present in St. Louis for the cere- monies of dedication. President Roosevelt and the members of his cabinet were there, Ex-Presi- dent Cleveland, representatives of both houses of Congress, governors of many states, mayors of many cities, and the diplomatic represent- atives of foreign governments at the national capital. Unfortunately , the weather was most capri- cious. A fierce prairie wind, clouds of dust, and a chilling temperature, conspired to bring dis- comfort to the assembled thousands. Officials and paraders and populace alike shivered at the touch of the icy wind. The President reviewed the fine military parade, and afterward addressed the thousands assembled in the building of Liberal Arts. He alluded in complimentary language to Spain and 172 DEDICATORY CEREMONIES 1 73 France as the early owners of Louisiana, and to the foreign elements in its subsequent develop- ment and settlement. The work of soldiers, missionaries, explorers, and traders, was fittingly eulogized. In speaking of the Louisiana Purchase as the most striking single achievement in the move- ment of continental expansion, the President said: It stands out in marked relief even among the feats of a nation of pioneers, a nation whose people have from the beginning been picked out by a process of natural selection from among the most enterprising individuals of the nations of western Europe. The acquisition of the territory is a credit to the broad and far-sighted statesmanship of the great statesmen to whom it was immediately due; and, above all, to the aggressive and masterful character of the hardy pioneer folk to whose restless energy these statesmen gave expression and direction, whom they followed rather than led. Ex-President Cleveland had this to say: The supreme importance of the Louisiana Purchase, and its value as a national accomplishment, when seen in the incidents of its short history and in the light of its present and prospective effects, and judged solely by its palpable and independent merits, cannot be bet- ter characterized than by the adoption of the following language from the pen of a brilliant American his- torian: "The annexation of Louisiana was an event so por- tentous as to defy measurement. It gave a new face 174 THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE to politics, and ranked in historical importance next to the Declaration of Independence and the adoption of the Constitution, an event of which it was the logical outcome. But as a matter of diplomacy it was unparalleled, because it cost almost nothing." Every feature of our celebration should remind us that we memorialize a peaceful acquisition of territory for truly American uses and purposes, and we should rejoice not only because this acquisition immediately gave peace and contentment to the spirited and deter- mined American settlers who demanded an outlet of trade to the sea, but also because it provided homes and means of livelihood for the millions of new Ameri- cans whose coming tread fell upon the ears of the expectant fathers of the republic, and whose stout hearts and brawny arms wrought the miracles which our celebration should interpret. We are here at this hour to dedicate beautiful and stately edifices to the purpose of our commonwealth. But as we do this, let us remember that the soil whereon we stand was a century ago dedicated to the genius of American industry and thrift. For every reason, nothing could be more appropriate as an impor- tant part of the centennial commemoration we have undertaken, than the gathering together on this spot of the things that are characteristic of American effort, and which tell the story of American achievement; and how happily will this be supplemented and crowned by the generous, magnanimous and instructive contribu- tions from other and older lands, which, standing side by side with our exhibits, shall manifest the high and friendly regard our republic has gained among the governments of the earth, and shall demonstrate how greatly advancing civilization has fostered and stimu- lated the brotherhood of nations. DEDICATORY CEREMONIES I 75 May 1st was observed as "International Day," in honor of the diplomatic corps. The weather was ideal. The addresses of the day were by M. Jusserand, the French ambassador, and Don Emilip de Ojeda, the Spanish minister. Both of these gentlemen were eagerly heard because they represented nations that in the remote past had each been the possessor of the Louisiana territory. Beautiful weather greeted the last of the three days of celebration — "State Day." The chief feature was the imposing civil parade, in which scores of societies — industrial, educational, and benevolent — participated. Lindell Boulevard was lined with spectators for a distance of three miles, while on the reviewing stand was the large company of visiting governors. Several of the state buildings were afterward appropriately dedicated; and with words of sincerest congratu- lation the celebration came to a close. XXXV WHAT A CENTURY HAS WROUGHT TO ONE who looks to-day upon the impo- sing commonwealths formed wholly or in part from the Louisiana Purchase, comes the constant surprise that so marvelous an instance of settlement and development can date its genesis back to but a hundred years ago. In the trans-Mississippi region there has been one of the greatest kaleidoscopic changes ever seen in the history of human migrations. But a brief century since, Louisiana was prac- tically unknown. It was a vast blank upon the continental map. "All was silence and solitude, like the lonely steppes of Turkestan and Tar- tary. It was inhabited by wandering tribes whose occupation was war, and whose pastime was the chase. It was pastured for untold ages by roaming herds of bison, that followed the seasons in their recurring migrations from the Arctic circle to the Gulf." But, to-day, Louisiana is all known, from its princeliest peak to its deepest dell. The sur- veyor has run his measuring tape over it all, and the map is complete. The pioneer has subju- gated the wilderness, and made it more produc- tive than the basin of the storied Nile. It is the granary of the continent to-day, and its surplus grain feeds hungered Europe. 176 WHAT A CENTURY HAS WROUGHT 177 To move its products in their season taxes the banking facilities of the nation. Wall Street trades eagerly in the stocks of its trunk railway lines, fondly hopes for dividends, and gets them. The miner has found the hiding places of its boundless treasures, and his output affects the stock exchanges and the coinage of the world. Civilization has supplanted and corralled bar- barism. The schoolhouse and the church stand to-day where the rude wigwam once stood. And great and commanding cities, on sites where formerly stood the rude stockade and the fur- trader's post, are to-day the industrial, educa- tional, and religious nerve centers of mighty states that represent all that is worthiest and best in our western American life. And as such thoughts pass swiftly before the plane of vision, one readily calls to mind again that scene in a Parisian palace on a sunny April day of 1803, where two men — one an American, the other a Frenchman — are cordially clasping hands over the acquisition of Louisiana by America, and one is saying to the other: "Sir, we have lived long, but this is the noblest work of our whole lives. . . . This will change vast solitudes into flourishing districts" — a prophecy that in the good providence of Almighty God has been most surely and most amply fulfilled. n Library of travel LITTLE JOURNEYS TO EVERY LAND. By Marian M. Georoe. CLOTH BOUND VOLUMES, - - - 50 Cents. Each cloth bound volume contains from 160 to 184 pages, 7>^x 5# inches, colored flags, colored maps, and from 60 to 80 illustrations. 1. CUBA and PUERTO RICO. 2. HAWAII and THE, PHILIPPINES. 3. CHINA and JAPAN. 4. MEXICO and CENTRAL AMERICA. 5. ALASKA and CANADA. 6. ENGLAND and WALES. 7. SCOTLAND and IRELAND. 8. HOLLAND. 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