O)/ - ., /? Wnt'isewtefa/ ^w V10W- rS/s7///t . OUTLINES OF BRITISH COLONISATION BY THE U t REV. WILLIAM PARR GRESWELL * ' AUTHOR OF 'OUR SOUTH AFRICAN EMPIRE* *A HISTORY OF THE DOMINION OF CANADA, ETC. WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY THE RIGHT HON. LORD BRASSEY, K.C.B. HonDon PERCIVAL AND CO. 1893 All rights reserved H Y MOUSE STEPHENS TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE LORD BRASSEY, K. C. B. THE TRUE FRIEND OF OUR COLONIES, AND THE ABLE EXPONENT OF IMPERIAL UNITY THIS VOLUME IS RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED BY THE AUTHOR 514501 INTRODUCTION MR. GRESWELL'S volume on Colonisation is a record of achievements of which the British nation may justly be proud. We read in these pages of maritime dis- coveries in every ocean, and of still more arduous inland explorations. The brilliant story of our coloni- sation carries us forward from the solitary struggles of the pioneer in unknown countries to the combined efforts made by great communities to develop commerce and promote civilisation. We see the first administrators of our distant dependencies at their work, in days when communication was slow and infrequent, and when little aid could be given and little interference was to be apprehended on the part of the authorities at home. In a later stage we have before us encouraging and splendid examples of the prosperity and contentment which have followed upon the bold and ungrudging acceptance of the policy of the devolution of local affairs upon a responsible con- stitutional government. In any history of our colonies the West Indies must have a large place. Those lovely islands, gems of surpassing beauty set in the silver sea, have been the vi British Colonisation scenes of many struggles, and have witnessed some of the most brilliant victories of the British navy. Since the close of the Great War the progress of these islands has never been interrupted by international conflicts. The difficulties of the planters have been due to other causes. The manumission of the slaves, and later the unfair and unequal struggle with foreign competitors lavishly subsidised by bounties, have entirely changed the conditions under which the cultivation of sugar must be carried on. It is gratify- ing to know that by reductions in the cost of produc- tion, and the opening of new markets, chiefly in the United States, the position of the sugar industry has been much improved. Owing to their tropical climate the West Indies cannot be regarded as a suitable field for European colonisation on an extensive scale. For the negro population these islands may be made an earthly paradise. It is to the development of peasant proprietorship that the governors are at this moment chiefly directing their attention. The fruit trade with the United States, which has been rapidly growing of recent years, seems specially adapted to the limited resources and aptitudes of a negro peasantry. The history of Canada contains many episodes of surpassing interest. Heroism and self-denying zeal in the cause of religion have never been exhibited more conspicuously than by the Jesuit fathers whom France Introduction vii sent forth in the seventeenth century to found missions in North America. The wars of the eighteenth century led to many hard-fought encounters between the British and French forces. The long list of brave and capable commanders on both sides culminates in the memorable names of Wolfe and Montcalm. In the siege and capture of Quebec both these illustrious heroes laid down their lives with unmurmuring devotion in the cause of their respective countries. There are episodes in war in which all the highest virtues of the human character are displayed. History has no more moving story than that which gathers round the crumbling battlements of Quebec. At a later stage Canada was the scene of another display of patriotism. Thousands of British settlers, rather than live under an independent flag, migrated, at great sacrifices, from their homes in the United States, and came to reside in a country where all the hard labours of the pioneer had to be en- countered, but where the flag of the mother country still waved above their heads. The subsequent history of Canada is chiefly interesting for the success which has attended the concession of responsible government. All traces of rancour and disloyalty have disappeared. The latest constitutional incident was the federation of all the provinces into one dominion. Canada possesses many sources of prosperity. Its fisheries give employment to a numerous and hardy viii British Colonisation maritime population. Lower Canada possesses noble forests : Ontario has a thriving agriculture and rich pastures : the Canadian North West is rapidly becom- ing one of the most abundant granaries of the world. The West African settlements are especially interest- ing in connection with many perilous efforts to explore the recesses of the Dark Continent. Off their surf- bound shores our squadrons for many years kept watch and ward for the suppression of the slave trade. Under British protection the slaves whom we set free have formed a settlement at Sierra Leone. The port is advantageously situated, both as a place of trade and as a coaling-station for the fleet. As a Colonial p"bwer the French are exhibiting re- markable energy in West Africa. Englishmen will watch with a generous approval the efforts of a friendly power in the cause of civilisation. There would be less of reserve in our good wishes to French colonisation if her settlements were administered under a less exclusive fiscal policy. At the Cape of Good Hope we have gradually over- come difficulties which in times past seemed almost insurmountable. By the concession of responsible government we have conciliated the Dutch, who form a strong majority of the white population. After a series of wars, as inglorious as all conflicts must be which are waged between a civilised power and savage tribes, we Introduction ix have found in the Caffres willing and sturdy labourers, who are lending invaluable services in opening up the resources of their country. Under the direction of Mr. Rhodes, the premier, the railway system of the Cape is being rapidly pushed forward, and British capital is being freely applied to the opening up of the mineral re- sources and the general settlement of the vast sphere over which the British Protectorate in South Africa extends. Let us pass on to Australasia. With those distant shores must for ever be associated the names of the great navigators by whom they were first explored. Dampier, Tasman, Flinders, Baudin, and, most re- nowned of all, Captain Cook, deserve special mention for the part they took in the extended explorations which made the civilised world first acquainted with the vast territories of Australia. The newly-discovered lands were used in the first instance as a convict settle- ment. That miserable stage in their history was fortunately brief. A population of stalwart settlers has found in the antipodes a rich field for enterprise. It was soon ascertained that the vast plains of the continent, though subject to long periods of drought, were capable of affording adequate subsistence to sheep selected from breeds especially rich in the pro- duction of wool. In 1851 the first great discoveries of gold were made in Australia. Attracted by the reports of many x British Colonisation fortunate finds, emigrants arrived in extraordinary numbers. In four years the population of Victoria was increased from less than 100,000 to more than 400,000. From this epoch onwards the prosperity of the Austral- asian colonies was assured. It now rests on a broader and more enduring basis than that of the gold-diggings. So boundless and varied are the resources, and so energetic the population, that it is now computed that, within a period but little exceeding the reign of our gracious Queen, less than five millions of people have accumulated a total private wealth of some twelve hundred millions sterling. Well may the people who have achieved such dazzling success inscribe upon their flag the motto, ' Advance, Australia ! ' It only remains to add a few concluding observations upon the problem of Imperial Federation. Not many years have elapsed since leading statesmen regarded with complacency the prospect of a severance of the ties, in those days deemed an incumbrance, which bound the mother country to distant dependencies to which it seemed difficult, if not impossible, to afford adequate protection. At the present time we have broader and worthier views of the advantages and possibilities of maintaining the unity of the British Empire. The true basis of that union is to be found, not in the parchments of lawyers or the despatches of ministers, but in the feelings of the people of the colonies Introduction xi towards that old but not exhausted land which it delights them to regard as the common home of the race. On the day before these lines were written, the subject was treated with a master-hand by Lord Rose- bery in presiding at the twenty -fifth anniversary banquet of the foundation of the Colonial Institute. In his speech delivered on that occasion, with the humorous touches so much to be desired in a post- prandial oration, there were conveyed lessons of states- manlike wisdom. 'It is a part/ he said, * of our responsibility and heritage to take care that the world, so far as it can be moulded by us, shall receive the Anglo-Saxon, and not another character.' While not recommending the immediate summoning of another Colonial Conference, Lord Rosebery gave evidence that sympathy and affection for the colonies was the govern- ing principle of his conduct as the minister in charge of the foreign affairs of the Empire. The same senti- ments were expressed, with not less warmth of feeling, by Lord Knutsford. There are no divergent views in reference to our colonial policy. It is held by states- men on both sides to be of the last importance to the future of our race to prevent our noble Empire from falling asunder. BRASSEV. March 7, 1893. AUTHOR'S PREFACE IN the following Outlines of British Colonisation I can claim to have followed no exact system or method. Some Colonies are treated more fully than others, and all of them less than they deserve ; but it is hard to compress the annals of our Colonies into a single volume. I have endeavoured to lay stress upon what may be of little more than passing interest in the story of conquest, exploration, or first acquisition. The great Dominion of Canada, the Colony of Newfoundland, and Africa, south of the Zambesi, I have treated more fully and exhaustively elsewhere in a recent series (1890-92) issued by the Clarendon Press. Our Second Colonial Empire is a vast subject, and demands variety of treatment, diversity of illustration, and many books adapted to the wants of the individual reader or student By a list of books and references given at the end of each chapter, I have invited my readers to pursue the subject further ; but I know that it is presumptuous to pretend to give anything approaching to a complete AutJiors Preface xiii bibliography. One striking characteristic of our Colonial Empire is that it has been mainly acquired, not in con- sequence of any set or formal State plan, but as mer- chants, sailors, adventurers, patentees, Companies, and Associations have led the way. The State has often cried ' Back ! ' but the individual has cried ' Forward ! ' The whole story is varied, rugged, and picturesque, being deeply interwoven with the proudest traditions of our race. Colonial History is English History writ large upon the face of the world. I have devoted especial attention to France and to French colonial policy. France has been our rival in the past, and she may be our rival in the future, and it is well to throw a little light upon her methods of colonisation. For my ' Facts and Figures ' contained in the Appendices, which follow the arrangement of the subject-matter in the text, and furnish a striking commentary upon it, I can claim more system and arrangement. These may be found useful by those who wish to study the statistics of the census year of 1891 a convenient resting-place whence to take a survey. These figures, if carefully studied, constitute a very eloquent proof of the magnifi- cent material results achieved by the energy of our race. Not the least surprising revelation is the value of British trade in Hong Kong and Further India. Upon close examination it will he found, also, how largely Africa trades with us. The policy of extending our influence xiv Author 's Preface in this continent is abundantly justified by the enormous proportion of direct export and import trade with our home ports. Moreover, England's policy is the wise and enlightened one of declaring all ports, navigable rivers, and highways free to the commerce of the world I have also been able to quote from Sir R. W. Rawson's most useful statistics, showing the proportion of the trade of our Colonies with the mother country for a period of years extending from 1872-86. I have sup- plemented this by a statement of the proportion as it existed in the census year of 1891. WILLIAM GRESWELL. APRIL 1893. CONTENTS PAGE INTRODUCTION BY LORD BRASSEY, .... v AUTHOR'S PREFACE, ...... xii CHAPTER I. THE WEST INDIES. Jamaica Barbados Trinidad Tobago British Guiana British Honduras, . . . . 1-19 CHAPTER II. THE WEST INDIES (continued). The Leeward Islands, including Dominica, Montserrat, Antigua, St. Kitts, Nevis, Anguilla, The Virgin Islands The Windward Islands including Grenada, the Grenadines, St. Lucia, St. Vincent The Bahamas The Bermudas, ..... 20-44 CHAPTER III. NEWFOUNDLAND, ...... 45-61 CHAPTER IV. THE DOMINION OF CANADA, ..... 62-85 CHAPTER V. THE WEST AFRICAN SETTLEMENTS, including the Gambia, Sierra Leone, The Gold Coast, Lagos, The Niger Protectorate, ....... 86-107 CHAPTER VI. THE SOUTH AFRICAN COLONIES, .... 108-131 XVI Contents CHAPTER VII. THE AUSTRALIAN COLONIES : New South Wales, . CHAPTER VIII. Tasmania Victoria Western Australia , CHAPTER IX. South Australia Queensland, * , ; 132-159 . 160-180 . 181-199 CHAPTER X. NEW ZEALAND, . CHAPTER XII. CEYLON AND THE MALDIVE ARCHIPELAGO, . 200-217 CHAPTER XL THE ISLANDS OF THE SOUTH PACIFIC THE FIJI GROUP, . 218-227 228-239 CHAPTER XIII. MAURITIUS, CHAPTER XIV. HONG KONG THE STRAITS SETTLEMENTS BRITISH NORTH BORNEO LABUAN, ...... 246-262 APPENDICES, INDEX, . . 263-348 349-358 CHAPTER I THE WEST INDIES GENERALLY speaking, there may be said to be five distinct periods in the history of the West Indies common to all the settlements, more or less. First, the period of Spanish occu- pation following upon Spanish discovery, and dating from 1492, the year of the first voyage of Columbus ; next, the age of the buccaneers, marking a kind of rough transition stage, and leading up to the direct interference of England and France in the affairs of the West Indies. The occupation of Jamaica in 1655 by Venables and Penn was a deadly blow aimed at the Spanish dominion, and led ultimately to its utter downfall. Thirdly, in the midst of national rivalries, un- licensed acts, and piratical attacks, the gradual growth of the sugar industry, fostered by slave labour, can be traced. This industry grew and flourished, especially during the eighteenth century, and then received two mortal blows from the abolition of the slave trade in 1807, and the Emancipation Act of 1834. Before they fell beneath legislation, the West Indian planters were regarded as some of the richest merchants and capitalists in Europe. The fourth age is remarkable for the depression of this great tropical industry, and in Jamaica itself, the most typical and important possession of all of them, culminates in the disastrous ' servile war,' during Governor Eyre's regime (1865-1866). The fifth period, i.e. from this date to the present time, is one of greater hope. The folly of trusting to 2 British Colonisation one industry alone, is well as the immorality of slave labour, have both been exposed by time, and teaching ; and the West Indian planter, although suffering from the blows dealt upon him unsparingly from all quarters, is learning wisdom through adversity. To the student of British colonial history no group of colonies can present so varied or so diversified a record. Speaking more particularly, each settlement offers us a dis- tinct and separate story of development a story within a story, a history within a history. Island histories are always interesting from the fact that the communities living on them work out, in each case, their social and political fortunes in vacuo. A change of governing power and a transference of sea dominion does not involve, as it would in the case of continental possessions, the universal and unquestioned supremacy of one European Power only. In the framing of treaties and the adjustment of international contracts, an island which has been virtually at the complete disposal of the conqueror is left as indeed the French island of Martinique was left in 1814 as a naval post or as a foothold upon the highways of commerce. Thus there still remain many frag- ments of former empires in the West Indies. Spain, France, England, Holland, Denmark, Venezuela, all hold possessions in the West Indies ; whilst the Black Republic of Hayti offers a most singular and, in a certain sense, a most instructive study of an island community. From another point of view it is impossible to speak of the West Indian islands en bloc. Extending as they do over twenty degrees of latitude from the Gulf of Florida to the Spanish Main and the mouth of the Orinoco, they offer great variations of climate and temperature, although, of course, they are all tropical settlements, and lie between the Equator and the Tropic of Cancer. It has been the custom, also, to include the continental colonies of French, Dutch, and British Guiana as well as Honduras in the West Indian group sometimes to the perplexity of the casual reader, who often speaks of Demerara as a West Indian island ; so that these The West Indies 3 lateral and continental extensions of the general geographical expression, 'the West Indies,' provide us with another varia- tion. Far to the north, the remote Bermudas have been included under the term, in spite of the very loose links that exist between them and the larger and better known Sporades of Caribbean waters. With regard to size, some of the islands are very small, and lie like green specks amidst the waste of waters ; while others are large, and rise, as in the case of Cuba, to the posi- tion of a rich and stately national heritage. Some, again, are low-lying on the ocean, mere groups of coral islands, like the Bahamas, which were called cayos or flats by the Spaniards, and the abode of wreckers, who made much profit from the stranding of vessels on their hidden shoals and reefs. Other islands tower aloft, like Dominica and St. Vincent, to magnifi- cent heights tall monuments of some mighty volcanic erup- tion, which has added marvellously to their beauty, and left strange lakes, hot springs, and chasms everywhere. In Trini- dad the Pitch Lake, so well known to travellers, and described by Charles Kingsley and Lady Brassey, is a strange, pungent Stygian picture, reminding us of Gustave Dore's pictures and the old-world description of Tartarus, in the midst of tropical verdure and scenes of surpassing loveliness a vision of death, as it were, in the midst of beauty. Again, some of the West Indies are unhealthy, others healthy and in the latter, at a suitable elevation, Europeans can find pleasant abodes and bracing sanatoria. From a political point of view, some of the West Indies have led a comparatively quiet life for generations ; others, like Jamaica and St. Lucia, have been torn by conflicts and swept by the scourge of war. In times of depression, when the burdens of government have been hard to bear, there has been a tendency on the part of the island governments to form themselves into groups, and thus economise the task of administration ; in times of prosperity, when each island has been well able to pay its way, there has been a wish to live 4 British Colonisation apart. Perhaps the latest movement has been towards a general West Indian confederacy and some form of federal government. But this development is in the womb of time, and it is scarcely clear whether a Caribbean confederacy will arise or not. To enumerate more particularly our West Indian posses- sions, they consist of the following islands and continental possessions : 1. Jamaica. 2. Barbados. 3. Trinidad. 4. Tobago. 5. British Guiana. 6. British Honduras. 7. The Leeward Islands, including Dominica, Montserrat, Antigua, St. Kitts, Nevis (with Anguilla), The Virgin Islands. 8. The Windward Islands, including Grenada, St. Lucia, St. Vincent. 9. The Bahamas. 10. The Bermudas. Of these Jamaica, taken from Spain by Cromwell and used as a buccaneers' perch, is the most important. The very geographical divisions, as well as the nomencla- ture, of this island are copied from the Mother-country : in Jamaica there are the counties of Cornwall, Middlesex, and Surrey, divided into various parishes. Cornwall, governed once by a Trelawny, boasts of a town of Trelawny, also a Falmouth. It is the pride of the Jamaica Cornwall that it produces the best rum in the world. The various parishes are distinguished by their peculiar products, and the parish of St. Ann, in the central county of Middlesex the first part of the island where Europeans landed is termed the ' Garden of Jamaica.' The parish of Manchester, in the same county so called after a Duke of Manchester boasts of fine uplands, rich fruit and coffee plantations. Clarendon parish so named The West Indies 5 after the well-known English Lord Chancellor has an historical interest as the place where, in 1694, at Carlisle Bay the French were beaten off by the colonial militia. On this occasion the French took advantage of the terrible ruin and devastation caused by the great earthquake of 1692, which completely destroyed Port Royal, to invade the island at Port Morant, coming from Hispaniola, and instigated, so it has been said, by disloyal Irish and Jacobites. Historical associations cluster around Jamaica, and especially Port Royal. Penn arid Venables, disgracefully repulsed from the French colony of Hispaniola, which they were sent to conquer, partially redeemed their fame by the capture of the fortress of S. lago de la Vega (Spanish town). Benbow, after gallantly fighting du Casse (1702), lies buried in Kingston Parish Church, where his tomb with the following inscription can be seen : * Here lyeth interred the body of John Benbow, Esq., Admiral of the White, a true pattern of English courage, who lost hys life in defence of hys Queene and country. November ye 4th, 1702, in the 52nd year of hys age, by a wound in hys leg received in an engagement with Mons. du Casse, being much lamented.' Spanish Town boasts of a marble statue erected in honour of Lord Rodney, who, in company with Sir Samuel Hood, defeated the French admiral,' de Grasse, on that ever memorable April day, 1782, when the fortunes of the West Indies and the dominion of this part of the world seemed to be hanging in the balance. It is said that home politics were divided upon the subject of Rodney's expedition, and that a message was sent to him to strike his flag and come home; but, fortunately for England, Rodney never got this message, and won for his country that glorious victory. In later times Port Royal has been the scene of many a notable rendezvous. During the American war and the French occupation of Mexico the British war-ships constantly called at Port Royal for coal and provisions; and in 1864, when Archduke Maximilian undertook the great and perilous task of ruling as Emperor of Mexico over a country so long distracted 6 British Colonisation by war and tumult, he was met at Port Royal by eleven ships of war, and speeded on that errand destined to prove dis- astrous to him. It is interesting to note how Jamaica has been rilled up with inhabitants from time to time. In 1662, less than ten years after the hoisting of the British flag at S. lago de la Vega, no fewer than 4000 colonists were planted there, the policy of Cromwell being to force Scotch and Irish immigration. In 1666, Sir Thomas Modyford brought over 1000 settlers from Barbados. Nevis, St. Kitts, and the Bermudas all sent their contingents. In 1682, an aided immigration of some importance took place, and this was of French Protestants who had to fly from their country in consequence of religious persecution. An Order in Council is extant by which a passage was provided to Jamaica for forty-two French Protestants, ' whose names are to be certifyed unto them by the Right Rev. Father in God, the Lord Bishop of London, to be transplanted to His Majesty's Island of Jamaica, with the first conveniency they can.' These refugees were commended to Sir Thomas Lynch, the Governor of Jamaica, by Sir Leoline Jenkins, a Welshman, who had taken up arms on behalf of the Royalist cause, and was a well-known Jesus College man. He was a friend of Fell and Sheldon, to the latter of whom he rendered great services in the establish- ment of the Sheldonian Theatre and Printing Press at Oxford. Sir Leoline Jenkins subsequently urged the King to found and endow two additional Fellowships at Jesus College, according to the terms of which the holders were to go to sea and exercise clerical functions, either in the fleet or the plantations. This idea, although held in abeyance for a long time, was eventually carried out. 1 In 1669, the remnants of a Scotch colony that had been planted on the Isthmus of Darien came over to Jamaica ; later on, and especially after 1713, the date of the Assiento, Port Royal became a great depot of the slave trade. As the sugar 1 Anderson's History of the Colonial Church^ vol. ii. 362. The West Indies 7 industry developed, white immigration ceased to flow. The day of small holdings was over. A statement of the component parts of the population at various times confirms this view. In 1658 the colony contained 4500 whites and 1500 negroes ; in 1673, 8564 whites and 9504 negroes; in 1828, Mr Montgomery Martin estimated that a population of 500,000, or a proportion of about 78 persons to the square mile, was a low estimate. Of these only 35,000 were Europeans. At present the population is 639,491, of whom only 14,000 are Europeans a great diminution contrasted with the estimate of fifty years ago. Meanwhile, in addition to the African population, which shows signs of increase, must be reckoned the newly imported Indian and Chinese coolies. It is worth recording that no fewer than 20,000 Jamaican blacks have emigrated to Panama, attracted by the high wages on the Canal works. In Jamaica there are 60,000 peasant proprietors, who keep the industry of fruit-culture on a small scale almost entirely in their hands. The Central American States, such as Venezuela, Guatemala, and the Colombian States, offer to the Jamaican negro a good opening as a labourer, where his services are highly prized. Together with Jamaica must be considered (i) the Cayman Islands. The largest of these, the Grand Cayman, lies about 178 miles north-west of Jamaica. Little Cayman is 70 miles north-east of Grand Cayman, and Cayman Brae lies close to Little Cayman. (2) The Turks and Caicos Islands, formerly part of the Bahamas, and separated from them by the Caicos Channel. The whole area of this group is 169 square miles, being nine in number. The Turks Islands are so called from a cactus which grows there of a shape resembling a Turk's head. The products of these islands are salt, cave earth, sponges, and the pink pearl. The oldest industry was salt-raking. (3) The Morant Cays and Islands are 36 miles from Morant Point to the south-east. 1 1 For facts and figures see Appendix I. Section A. 8 British Colonisation BARBADOS. Barbados, situated in lat. 13 4' N. and long. 59 37' W., is the most easterly of all the Caribbean islands, the island of St. Vincent lying 78 miles to the west. In shape it resembles a shoulder of mutton. Its size is about that of the Isle of Wight, being 21 miles long and 14 J miles broad. It has been, and still is, the most thickly populated of the West Indian islands, emigration from its shores being almost a necessity. In 1674 the population was reckoned at 150,000, of whom 50,000 were white; in 1786 the white population numbered 16,167, an d the blacks 62,953 ; in 1832 the slave population was 81,500, the white under 13,000; in 1891 the population was 182,322, being 1098 to the square mile. It is easy to understand, therefore, that Barbados has been a centre whence emigration has taken place to other islands on a large scale. It has already been noticed that Barbadian colonists crossed over to Jamaica. The name of the island was one of ill omen to those many victims of Cromwell's high-handed Trans- portation Acts. To be transported to the plantations, and especially to Barbados, for offences against the law or the Government, was a very common process. The wretched prisoners who were seized at Exeter and Silchester on pretence of the Salisbury rising were hurried away to Plymouth, thence shipped to Barbados, and sold as the goods and chattels of their masters. Their sufferings were plaintively described in a pamphlet called England's Slavery ; or, Barbadoz Merchan- dise^ published in 1659. The island is said to have been so named from the bearded vines growing on its shores, which hang down and strike root in the earth. It was discovered by the Portuguese, and nomi- nally taken possession of by the captain of the English ship Olive Blossom, who raised a cross in honour of the occasion, and left in 1605 the following inscription: 'James, King of England and of this Island.' With Newfoundland Barbados has sometimes disputed the title of being the oldest of all The West Indies g British colonies. From the date of occupation it has main- tained its title, without a single interruption, of being a British colony, although just before Rodney's crowning victory an invasion of the French seemed imminent, and colonial levies mustered in haste from all quarters. It was at this island that the immortal Nelson arrived in June 1805 during his search for the fleets of France and Spain, four months before the victory at Trafalgar ; and a statue to his honour stands in Trafalgar Square, at Bridgetown, as 'the preserver of the British West Indies in a moment of unexampled peril.' After the discovery of the island by the British, King James granted a charter to the Earl of Marlborough, then Lord Leigh, giving him the proprietorship of the island; and under this charter Sir W. Courteen, a British subject of Dutch extraction, sent out a venture in 1625. The following year the William and John brought out thirty emigrants the first of those numerous bands of British colonists who seemed resolved to colonise and cultivate Barbados and make it a bond fide settlement. It was here that the sugar-cane was first grown and cultivated, and Barbados sugar became well known. In one of the numbers of the Spectator it is observed that * the fruits of Portugal are corrected by the products of Barbados, and the infusion of a China plant is sweetened by the pith of an Indian cane.' It may be remarked here that tea and sugar, associated in our minds with most peaceful recreation and most homely entertainment that of the cup that cheers but does not inebriate have been the cause of most disastrous events and most calamitous policies in the annals of the British colonial empire. A tea-chest was at the bottom of the Ameri- can revolt, and sugar was the proximate cause of slavery, cruelty, and a vast monopoly to be undone, truly enough, by national repentance, but bringing extraordinary consequences in its wake. Free Trade seemed to turn upon sugar questions, and sugar bounties are still a bone of contention between nations. In the seventeenth century, and indeed at all times, io British Colonisation Barbados was noted for its loyalty, and became the refuge of many Loyalists, who defended themselves against Cromwell. After the Commonwealth, Charles n. conferred the dignity of knighthood upon thirteen gentlemen of Barbados as a reward for their attachment to the Royalist cause. Prince Rupert had made the West Indies a refuge, and Prince Rupert's Bay in Dominica still indicates this fact. It was with the double object of punishing the Loyalists in Barbados and also of crippling the power of Holland that the well-known Navigation Laws of 1650 were passed by the Long Parliament, by which the ships of any foreign nation were prohibited from trading with any of the English plantations without a licence from the Council of State. Against these laws the Barbadians issued a manifesto, and secretly evaded the provisions, whilst they were obliged openly to recognise them. After the restoration of Charles IL, however, they were revised, amplified, and enforced with a stringency which precluded the colonies effectually from all intercourse with foreign nations. The Barbadians were naturally surprised and hurt at this somewhat unexpected con- firmation by Charles n. of the Protector's policy. They com- plained that they would be ruined by the double monopoly of import and export claimed by the Mother-country. 1 The prosperity of Barbados was also affected by an Act passed in September 1663, which gave an export duty of 4^ per cent, of all dead commodities of the island to the King and his heirs and successors for ever. This tax continued until 1838, when it was repealed and an end put to a long-standing grievance. It was calculated that in the period during which the duty was leviable no less than six millions had been paid by the planters a sum three times the fee-simple value of theii lands. Barbados is famed for the Codrington College, founded by General Christopher Codrington, who bequeathed two estates, Consetts and Codrington, consisting of 763 acres, three wind- mills, sugar-buildings, 315 negroes, and 100 head of cattle, to 1 See Foyer's History of the Barbados, 1808. The West Indies 11 the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel. General Cod- rington was descended from an ancient family which had fought on the King's side in the Civil War, and had afterwards settled at Barbados. He was born at Barbados, and was sent to Oxford to be educated, where he became a Fellow of All Souls. He entered the army, and served both in the West Indies and at the siege of Namur. He died at Barbados in 1710, and his remains were disinterred and carried to England, finding a resting-place in the Chapel of All Souls. Codring- ton College is still an active power for good, being affiliated to the Durham University, and sending from time to time many students of divinity. The first Principal of Codrington College was the Rev. T. H. Pinder, who, previous to slave emancipation, had done his best to make the life of the West Indian negro more endurable. He was appointed to the post by Bishop Coleridge, the first Bishop of Barbados (1824), a prelate who may be said to have occupied in the West Indies a somewhat similar position, as missionary Bishop, to that of Bishop Gray in South Africa and of Bishop Patteson in the Pacific. Mr. Pinder was well-known afterwards for his work in the diocese of Bath and Wells. Throughout its history Barbados has been able to point to martial exploits, and to timely assistance given often against the enemies of England. When Jamaica was taken in 1655 the island sent an auxiliary force of 3500 volunteers ; in 1689 Barbadian troops assisted to recover St. Kitts from France, and in 1603 helped to foil French designs upon Martinique. In 1762 they raised a regiment for the British expedition which captured Martinique. Just as in Canada, along the valley of the St. Lawrence, off the coasts of Cape Breton, Nova Scotia, and Newfoundland, England was assisted in her mortal struggle with France by her New England and Canadian colonists, so in the Caribbean Seas she received great help from the stalwart and loyal Englishmen who made their homes and settlements there. 1 1 For facts and figures see Appendix I. Section B. 12 British Colonisation TRINIDAD. Trinidad has been often described from the day of its first discovery to the present. Columbus, who approached the eastern extremity of the island, and gave it the name of Punta de la Galera from its resemblance to a galley under sail, wrote with enthusiasm of the ' softness and purity of the climate, the verdure, sweetness, and freshness of the country equalling the delights of early spring in the province of Valentia in Spain.' He named the narrow strait on the south-west, between Point Icacos and the mainland, the ' Serpent's Mouth,' which seemed to flow ' with as much fury as the Guadalquivir swoln by floods ' ; and to the strait that separates the north-west corner of Trinidad from the long promontory of Venezuela he gave the name of the 'Dragon's Mouth.' This long promontory Columbus, thinking it was an island, called Isla da Gracia. Trinidad was also visited by Sir Walter Ralegh in 1595 on his first Guiana expedition, who found the Spaniards cultivat- ing the tobacco-plant and sugar-cane. Hearing of the cruelties of the Spaniards, he attacked and took the town of St. Joseph, where he found five Indian caciques or chiefs bound to one chain and subjected to terrible torture. Ralegh took captive the Spanish Governor, de Berreo by name, from whom he heard many rumours of the fabled El Dorado on the continent. More than twenty years afterwards (1617-18) Sir Walter was again at Tierra de Brea in Trinidad, on that last and well- known search for the Guiana El Dorado. Captain Lawrence Keymis, in company with Sir Walter's young and gallant son, was sent up the Orinoco, whilst the Admiral himself remained on the island. The sequel of this expedition is well known. Sir Walter's son was killed fighting against the Spaniards, 'dying as a soldier of England ought to die,' to use the words of his grief-stricken parent, written to Lady Ralegh ; and Keymis, failing to discover the Guiana mine, destroyed himself after rejoining Sir W. Ralegh at Trinidad. Young Ralegh was a friend of Ben Jonson, and a humorous The West Indies 1 3 story is told of his wheeling 'rare Ben' into his father's presence in a wheelbarrow after the sage had partaken too freely of a good vintage of Canary wine. In his Every Man in his Humour Ben Jonson eulogises Trinidad tobacco as ' your right Trinidado,' and it is possible that the sage had the opportunity of knowing the good qualities of this tobacco through the Raleghs. The island has been alluded to by the celebrated Alexander von Humboldt, and described by Canon Kingsley, and more recently by Lady Brassey. In the well-known cruise of the Royal Princes in the Bacchante, which entered the Gulf of Paria through one of the Dragon's Mouths, mention is made of the green hills of Trinidad. The Princes left their name to Princes' Town in the island. For poetical description of Trinidad climate and scenery there is nothing to equal the writings of Canon Kingsley in his At Last. Kingsley passed the Christmas of 1869 in Port of Spain, and lived in 'The Cottage,' close to the Botanical Gardens. Until recently the room in which the great novelist wrote and the gallery where he smoked his pipe were shown to visitors. Kingsley 's cane- brake and the ' great arches of the bamboo clumps ' are also show-places. The whole island is full of tropical marvels, both indigenous and imported. The bread-fruit, the jujube, the mango, cinnamon, cloves, nutmegs, the loquat tree, the eucalyptus, cinchona, rubber-trees, and even sugar and coffee, are all strangers, but they thrive wonderfully in Trinidad. The climate is described as intertropical tempered by insular influences, and according to Dr. de Verteuil, the best-known authority on Trinidad, healthy for Europeans. In the midst of so much that is beautiful and strange there are three objects of surpassing interest : ( i ) the cascade of Maraccas, which has a fall of 340 feet; (2) the forest trees and the wonderful trailing parasites and orchids ; (3) the Pitch Lake, 99 acres in extent, the greatest curiosity of all. When Trinidad was first discovered by the Spaniards it was 14 British Colonisation thickly peopled by West Indian aborigines; but with their usual cruelty the Spaniards depopulated the island either by murdering them or transporting them to the Hispaniola mines. In 1783 the population was only 2763, and the ground was thus clear for imported slave labour. In 1831 there were 41,675 souls, of whom 21,302 were slaves. There were also a few Chinese labourers, who were first introduced in I8I6. 1 In 1888 the population of the island was calculated to be 189,566, giving 1 08 to the square mile. The East Indian population is a remarkable feature in this island, there being in 1 88 1 no fewer than 49,000. They are imported at the rate of 2000 a year. The character of the population is very mixed ; the white inhabitants, of whom there are more than is usual in a West Indian settlement, comprising descendants of French and Corsican families, English and Scotch settlers, and many immigrants from the neighbouring territory of Venezuela. In point of size Trinidad comes next to Jamaica ; but its historical record is far less interesting to us, although, perhaps, more simple. In 1802, the date of the formal acquisition, the new regime was about to commence in the West Indies, and the question of free labour was faced under less embarrassing circumstances than in Jamaica, where slave traditions were strong. Perhaps the most pressing problem in Trinidad is its development in all branches by means of Asiatic coolies, who in Natal and elsewhere are gradually supplanting the less industrious and thrifty African. 2 TOBAGO. Together with Trinidad must be considered Tobago, a small island nineteen miles north-east of Trinidad, and supposed by some to have been the original Robinson Crusoe's island an honour usually accorded to Juan Fernandez, no leagues off 1 Martin's History of the British Colonies, vol. ii. p. 246. 2 For facts and figures see Appendix I. Section C. The West Indies 1 5 the coast of Chili. It was first discovered by Columbus in 1498; but the British landed there in 1580, and in 1608 James i. claimed the sovereignty over it. Together with Trinidad, Barbuda, and Fonseca it formed part of a grant to the Earl of Montgomery in 1628. The island was not occu- pied, however, and twice the Dutch endeavoured to colonise it, calling it New Walcheren. It remained for many years a kind of debatable ground for Dutch, French, and English colonists, and was declared neutral in 1748 by the Treaty of Aix-la- Chapelle. In the wars between England and France the island was captured and recaptured more than once, until in 1814 it became part of the British Empire. The trade of this island has dwindled down considerably of late years, and the cotton and indigo industries, for which it was once famed, have disappeared. The island was described a hundred years ago (1792) by Sir W. Young, and from his account the little colony must have presented a more prosperous appearance than of late years. 1 BRITISH GUIANA. The name of Guiana, or ' the Wild Coast,' is given to that part of the South American continent lying between 8 40' N. latitude and 3 30' S. latitude, and between the fiftieth and sixty-eighth degrees of W. longitude. It is shared by several nationalities, and is divided into (i) British Guiana, (2) Venezuelan Guiana, (3) Dutch Guiana, (4) French Guiana or Cayenne, (5) Brazilian Guiana. British Guiana is there- fore a tract of the South American continent, and the portion now occupied by England was originally colonised by the Netherlands. Broadly speaking, there are two eras of British colonisation in Guiana, the first beginning with the romantic enterprises of Sir Walter Ralegh in 1595, and ending with an evacuation of that part of it known as Surinam in 1694. The second era, lasting to the present day, begins in 1795, when 1 For facts and figures see Appendix I. Section D. 1 6 British Colonisation war broke out between England and Holland, then a depen- dency of France, and England gained Essequibo, Demerara, and Berbice. Sir W. Ralegh took up the task of Guiana colonisation in 1595, and Sir ^Robert Cecil participated in the enterprise by contributing to the outfit. Somewhere in this part of South America it was believed that a people and city existed of fabulous wealth. ' The very boxes and troughs were of gold and silver, and billets of gold lay about as if they were logs of wood laid out to burn.' This fabled city was called El Dorado, although the Spaniards applied the term not to a city but a king, of whom the Indians had said that he was wont on certain solemn occasions to anoint his body with turpentine and then roll himself in gold dust. 1 In this state El Dorado entered a canoe and proceeded to bathe in a lake. This strange story had a fascination for European adventurers of those days, who constantly went in search of the king and the lake. As early as 1530 a body of 200 Spaniards, setting out from Coro, on the coast of Venezuela, went in search of the city. Between 1530 and 1560 seven or eight distinct expeditions had been despatched from the neighbouring Spanish settlements, one of which was commanded by Gonzalo Pizarro, a brother of the conqueror of Peru. Sir Walter Ralegh has left descriptions of the navigation of the Orinoco, that 'labyrinth of rivers' noticed afterwards by the great Humboldt and the multitude of islands, each island ' so bordered with high trees as no man could see any further than the breadth of the river or length of the branch.' Pre- sently they caught a glimpse of the inland champaign country, ' where the plains were twenty miles in length, the grass soft, short, and green,' and where the deer came down feeding to the water's edge, 'as if they had been used to a keeper's call.' They explored the Orinoco for a distance of 400 miles from the Gulf of Paria, and still the golden vision of El Dorado, or the 'great city of Manoa,' seemed ever to recede from before 1 Edwards's Life of Ralegh, vol. i. p. 164. The West Indies 17 them. The ships' crews toiled incredibly hard the officers and gentlemen labouring at the oars equally with the seamen living how they could on edible birds and the store of fruit. The variety of trees and flowers was such, we are told, as to make ten volumes of herbals. Ralegh reached a point on the Orinoco near the junction with the Cayuni River, placed by Humboldt at latitude 8 8' N. The Orinoco is a vast river, with a drainage of 270,000 square miles. It receives into its waters 436 rivers and more than 2000 smaller streams. Sir Walter Scott, speaking of the conflict of Marston Moor, writes : ' The battle's rage Was like the strife which currents wage, Where Orinoco, in his pride, Rolls to the main no tribute tide, But 'gainst broad ocean urges far A rival sea of roaring war ; While, in ten thousand eddies driven, The billows fling their foam to heaven, And the pale pilot seeks in vain, Where rolls the river, where the main.' The scenery of British Guiana has been described since the days of Sir Walter Ralegh by many able writers. Humboldt has spoken of its wonderful river system. Schomburgk, who visited the country in 1837-1840, has described its gigantic trees, strange parasitic lianas, clusters of palm-trees, magnifi- cent flora, its brilliant foliage, rare birds, and thousands of phosphorescent insects, and all the wonders of a tropical night. Mr. im Thurn has told of the famous Kaieteur Falls on the Potaro River and the glories of the lonely Roraima Mountain, with its ' sheer wall of red rock,' deemed to be inaccessible until he scaled it. Dr. Hancock, the Rev. W. H. Brett, and Mr. Trollope have all recorded their impressions of this tropical colony and its inhabitants, linked so inseparably in the past with the first projects of British colonisation. Of British Guiana Mr. Washington Eves has written : B 1 8 British Colonisation ' British Guiana, therefore, in its history so much mixed up with the Dutch ; in its one dominant industry ; in the coolie immigration by which alone it has resuscitated and maintained that industry ; in its constant endeavour to keep out the sea ; in its human relics of the old Caribbean Indians (formerly, perhaps, kings, but now hewers of wood and drawers of water, and small customers of shops) ; in its large unknown interior as contrasted with the cultivated land behind its sea-wall ; in its artificial dykes and dams and trenches ; ... in all these things it makes up a very varied and interesting whole.' 1 BRITISH HONDURAS. Honduras, so named from a Spanish term meaning depth, and the only continental possession of Great Britain in Central America, lies to the east of Guatemala and to the south of Mexico. Adventurers from Jamaica came here to cut wood in 1638, amongst them the well-known Dampier ; and for many years the colony was considered as a kind of dependency of Jamaica. Not until 1862 did the country become a separate British colony. The Honduras settlers were called 'Bay men,' and upheld their occupancy of the country against the attacks of the Spaniards, whose last attack upon them was made in 1798. Sometimes the settlers turned the tables upon the Spaniards, and in 1678 took possession of the town of Cam- peche, on the west coast of Yucatan. To the present day there is some part of the country still unexplored toward the Guatemala boundary and westward of the Cockscomb Peak, which has an elevation of 4000 feet. For many years mahogany and logwood have been the products of the colony, the mahogany-tree growing in vast forests along the mountain sides ; but the greater part of the colony is scarcely utilised by Great Britain. The colony lies between 16 and 18 N., with a hot and moist climate, averaging 80 to 82 Fahr. The Mosquito Shore is a tract of country described by 1 -For facts and figures see Appendix I. Section E. The West Indies 1 9 Martin x as extending from Cape Gracios a Dios southerly to Punta Gorda and St. Juan's River. The Mosquito Indians have always been celebrated for their successful opposition to the Spaniards and their friendship with the British. In 1847 Lord Palmerston laid down that the King of the Mosquito Indians was under the protection of the British Crown. In the early accounts of colonisation and adventure in Central America the Bay of Honduras and the Mosquito Shore figure somewhat prominently. In later years the interest taken in them has somewhat waned, so many other and more attractive portions of the world having been thrown open to British and European enterprise. Montgomery Martin maintained in 1830 that England had never realised the value of the colony, both in respect to its timber supplies, cotton, and all the variety of tropical products. 2 1 British Colonies, vol. ii. p. 399. 2 For facts and figures see Appendix I. Section F. CHAPTER II THE LEEWARD ISLANDS THE Leeward Islands belong partly to France, as Mar- tinique, Guadeloupe, and St. Bartholomew ; partly to Holland, as St. Eustatius, Saba, and a portion of St. Martin's Bay ; partly to Denmark, as Santa Cruz and St. Thomas. The rest belong to Great Britain, and are Antigua, Barbuda, St. Kitts, Nevis, Anguilla, Dominica, Montserrat, and the Virgin Islands. Politically the Leeward Islands form a confederacy with five presidencies : (i) Antigua with Barbuda and Redonda, (2) Dominica, (3) Montserrat, (4) St. Kitts with Nevis and Anguilla, (5) the Virgin Islands. These islands are small and dotted at intervals on the surface of the sea, extending in a circular line from Porto Rico to Trinidad ; the detached settlement of Barbados, as already mentioned, lying about fifty miles out of the line to the eastward. They are known as the Lesser Antilles. The more southerly of this long chain of islands are de- scribed as the Windward Islands, whilst the more northerly are known as the Leeward Islands a description not exactly correct from a geographer's point of view. The trade-wind of these latitudes blows from the north-east, and consequently the more northerly of the islands are more to the windward than the southern islands. The old geographers maintained that the true Leeward Islands were the Greater Antilles, viz. Porto Rico, Hayti, Cuba, and Jamaica. But as the present nomenclature has stood for so many years, it must be accepted. It was in 1671 that the colony of the Leeward Islands was separated 20 The West Indies 21 from Barbados, the seat of government up to that time, and from the Windward Islands. Nevis first of all, and then Antigua, became the administrative centre of the Leewards. Nearly all the Leewards were discovered by the Spaniards, and Columbus gave a name to Dominica, because it was first seen on a Sunday ; to Montserrat, after a mountain in Spain ; to Redonda, from its round shape ; to Antigua, in comme- moration of the Church of Santa Maria la Antigua in Seville ; to Anguilla, from its resemblance to a snake ; to the numerous Virgin Islands, after the legend of St. Ursula and the 11,000 virgins ; to Nevis, from the mountain of Nieves in Spain ; St. Kitts, contracted from St. Christopher, took its name from the great Christopher Columbus himself. The honours of discovery, therefore, lie very clearly with the Spaniards ; but, attracted probably by the prospects of the Greater Antilles, they left the Lesser Antilles unoccupied. The Leeward Islands lie somewhat out of the line of the main ocean routes, and are consequently not so often visited and described as other West Indian islands. Canon Kingsley passed them by altogether, and Mr. Froude visited only one of them, viz. Dominica. A more recent traveller, Mr. Morris, has thus spoken of them : * They are literally " green islands of glittering seas," bathed in continuous sunlight, and fanned by cooling breezes. . . . There are the forest-clad mountains and valleys of Dominica ; the highly cultivated slopes of St. Kitts ; the more sober, but not less interesting, undulating sugar-cane fields of Antigua ; and the lime and orange groves of Montserrat. All these constitute a picture of tropical wealth and beauty almost unknown to the people of this country.' 1 Some of these islands are volcanic, viz. Dominica, Mont- serrat, St. Kitts, and Nevis, and from their centres cone- shaped mountains rise sometimes to the height of 3000 to 5000 feet above the level of the sea, their sides being deeply scored out into rugged channels and ravines, whilst their 1 Proceedings of the Royal Colonial Institute, vol. xxii. p. 227. 22 British Colonisation crowns are hidden, day and night, by soft, fleecy masses of clouds. Such is the wealth and profusion of the tropics, that down to the very edge of the sea the shores are covered with a mass of vegetation. The non-volcanic islands are low, and, with the exception of Antigua and Tortola, devoid of hills. DOMINICA. Of all the Leeward Islands Dominica is the most beautiful, and, if we take the Leewards from south to north, it is the first to be described. In this island the native Caribs were more numerous than in any other island excepting St. Vincent. In 1640 Aubert, the French Governor of Guadeloupe, con- ciliated the Caribs by kindness, and in 1660 'a peace was signed at Guadeloupe between English, French, and Caribs, by which the natives were secured from European interference in St. Vincent and Dominica.' Subsequently the French appear to have taken a great interest in the island, and in 1778 a French force from Martinique attacked and captured the island ; but after Rodney's great victory Dominica was restored to England. It was off Dominica that Rodney, known afterwards as Baron Rodney of Stoke, Somersetshire, in company with Sir Samuel Hood, another Somersetshire celebrity, defeated the French admiral de Grasse on that memorable April day in 1782. It has been said that on this occasion the salvation of the West Indies and Jamaica, with the whole hope and fortune of the war, depended upon the ability of the English admirals to prevent the junction of de Grasse's fleet with the French and Spanish fleets at Hispaniola. The scene of action lay in the large basin between the islands of Guadeloupe, Dominica, Saintes, and Mariegalante, bounded on the leeward and westward by dangerous shores. The battle began at seven o'clock, and lasted the whole of April 12. Just as the sun was sinking, Sir Samuel Hood ranged along- side of the celebrated Ville de Paris, the French admiral's ship, The West Indies 23 and poured in a volley that killed sixty men outright. This was repeated, and at last the French admiral, with only three men left unhurt himself being one of the three surrendered his sword to Sir Samuel Hood. This was one of the most decisive as well as one of the bloodiest sea-fights ever fought between French and British. It came at a most opportune time, and was a splendid victory to set against the surrender of Cornwallis at Yorktown, in October 1791, the year before. MONTSERRAT. The island of Montserrat is small, being only eleven miles in length and seven in breadth, and lies north of the French colony of Guadeloupe a proximity from which it has some- what suffered in former days and is 1 2 7 miles from Antigua. This Presidency does not present so diversified a record as some of the others, although it has experienced a change of masters more than once. Colonised in the first instance by Sir Thomas Warner in 1632, it had to surrender to the French in 1664, who levied heavy imposts on the islanders. It was restored to England in 1668, and continued in her possession for more than a hundred years. In 1782 it had again to surrender to the French, but Rodney's crowning victory here, as elsewhere, turned the scale permanently in favour of England, so that since 1783, by the Peace of Versailles, Montserrat has continued to be an English colony. It should be remarked that in the beginning Montserrat was settled largely by Irish Roman Catholics, and England's enemies found in these malcontents sympathy and assistance on more than one occasion ; just as in the Bahamas, in 1661, the Irish were found leagued with the negroes in a contemplated rising. Indeed, on many of the West Indian Islands the Irish element, consisting originally of political prisoners and convicts, was found to be a source of danger to English rule. In Montserrat it is said that to this day the negroes have inherited the Irish brogue ; and a story is told of a Connaught 24 British Colonisation emigrant who, on arriving at the island, was hailed in broad Connaught brogue by a negro from one of the boats that came alongside. * Thunder and turf ! ' exclaimed the new-comer, ' how long have you been here ? J * Three months,' the black man answered. ' Three months ! ' ejaculated the Irishman ; ' and so black already ! By the powers ! I'll not stay among ye ! ' and so the visitor returned, it is said, to his native land. In the eighteenth century Montserrat rilled up quickly, so that by 1729 there were said to be 7000 inhabitants, of whom 5600 were negroes. Like the rest of the West Indies, it has felt the usual depression of trade, and as far as wealth is concerned has sunk from its high estate. Still, most of the ground there cultivated is devoted even now to the sugar-cane. The limes, however, have given an impulse to Montserrat trade. The lime-plantations cover about 1000 acres, and great skill has been employed in bringing this industry to its perfection. There are exported both fresh and pickled limes, raw lime- juice, concentrated lime-juice, essence of limes (prepared by a process known as ecuelling, from the rind of the lime), and oil of limes, prepared by distillation. 1 This industry has been promoted by the Montserrat Company. The island is noted for its negro peasantry, who are small freeholders and gardeners, living in cottages that are well kept and surrounded by fertile garden-lots. These small freeholders number 1200, and constitute a most orderly element in the island society who, under the benign influences of British rule, have risen from the status of labourers to that of owners and cultivators on a small scale. ANTIGUA. Antigua, like Dominica, was long a disputed possession between England and France, and its growth was somewhat later than that of St. Kitts or Nevis. In 1640, when the population of St. Kitts was 12,000 or 13,000, that of Antigua was only 1 Proceedings of the Royal Colonial Institute, vol. xxii. p. 242. The West Indies 25 thirty families. In 1663 Charles n. made a grant of the island to Lord Willoughby, who sent out a large number of colonists, the town of Parham denoting this immigration period. In 1666 the French took possession of it, but the following year Lord Willoughby retook it, and the report he gave of the island, troubled as it was by wars and disasters, was very favourable. It was described as 'the most proper island in the Indies for cattle, horses, and sheep, 7 with harbours ' incom- parably safe.' Amongst his followers was Major Willian Byam, a well-known Royalist, and of Somersetshire extraction, whose uncle was chaplain to Charles IL, and his intimate friend in adversity. Major Byam had been chosen Lieutenant-Governor by the Council and Assembly of the settlement at Paramaribo, in Surinam, for many years ; and a nominee of Cromwell, being sent out to supersede him, withdrew when he discovered that the colonists were determined to obey Major Byam and no other. The sugar-cane was introduced into Antigua by Colonel Codrington, who settled on the island from Barbados in 1674. Barbuda, the appanage of Antigua, was the property of the Codrington family. The inhabitants of Antigua were the first who, by means of legislation, endeavoured to ameliorate the evils of slavery. Owing to the elevation of the land and the absence of deep woods, the climate of Antigua, unlike Jamaica and Dominica, is dry. The scenery of this island has been described by Dr. Coleridge : 'Antigua/ he writes, 'on a larger scale, is formed like Anguilla that is, without any central eminences, but for the most part ramparted around by very magnificent cliffs.' The whole island, which is of a rough circular shape, lies in sight. The shores are indented in every direction with creeks and bays and coves. 26 British Colonisation ST. CHRISTOPHER (ST. KITTS) AND NEVIS. Together with St. Kitts and Nevis must be included the island of Anguilla, so named from its snake-like shape, which is about sixty miles distant. In St. Kitts the English made their first settlement in the West Indies, the first emigrants being fourteen Londoners under Sir Thomas Warner ; and on this island it would appear that the French and English lived amicably together, the upper portion, called Capisterre, being allocated to the French, and the lower portion, called Basse- terre, falling to the English. Quarrels, however, soon arose, and the island passed through the ordeals of internal discord and invasion from without. The mastery of the island lay with the French in 1689, who were aided by the Irish rebels ; but in 1690 the island was retaken by Codrington with the aid of troops from Barbados, and the tables were turned upon the French settlers, many of whom were banished, until, in 1697, the French regained their share of the island by the terms of the Peace of Ryswick. More discord followed upon this, until 1713, when, by the Treaty of Utrecht, an end was finally put to the dual partnership, and England reigned supreme in St. Kitts. The French inhabitants migrated to St. Domingo, and the Government received a large sum of money by the sale of Crown lands, of which ^40,000 went as a dowry to a daughter of George u. In 1722 a terrible hurricane swept over the island and destroyed ^500,000 of property. In 1729 the population had grown to more than 18,000, of whom 14,000 were negroes. In 1782 the French, under the Marquis de Bouille and Count de Grasse, took the island ; but by the Treaty of Versailles it was restored to England. St. Kitts was the birth-place of Christophe, first a slave, and ultimately the Emperor of Hayti. In earlier times it was the residence of Dr. Grainger, an army surgeon, who became a friend of Dr. Johnson. He was the author of a kind of Georgic on the sugar industry of the island, called The Sugar- The West Indies 27 Cane. Dr. Johnson, according to Boswell, approved of Dr. Grainger, and thought he was a man who would do any good in his power ; but his Sugar-Cane did not please him ; for what, he exclaimed, could he make of a sugar-cane ? He might as well write The Parsley Bed: a Poem. It must be confessed that Grainger's paragraph beginning 'Now, Muse, let's sing of rats/ which was afterwards paraphrased : ' Nor with less waste the whisker'd vermin race, A countless clan, despoil the lowland cane,' was sufficient to excite ridicule. However, Dr. Grainger, when he wrote this couplet on the black labourers ' Servants, not slaves : of choice and not compelled The blacks should cultivate the cane-land isles ' proved that at this date (1764) he was living before his time. NEVIS. The first colonisation of Nevis was English (1628), and, together with the rest of the Leeward Islands, it was included in the Carlisle grant. It lies to the south-east of St. Kitts, and is separated from it by a narrow strait about two miles wide. Like the rest of the Caribbee islands, it was subject to French in- vasion, and in 1666 defended itself successfully against a French fleet. It became a place of refuge and of considerable import- ance. In 1671 it is described as the most considerable of the Leeward Islands, and the centre of the sugar trade in the group. Nevis was known as ' the mother of the English Charibbee islands,' and the Governor of Nevis held a dormant commission as Governor- in-Chief of the Leeward Islands, and 'pirates were tried at Nevis only, as being deemed the mother-island.' It was also a slave-mart, like Kingston in Jamaica. 1 The island is described as almost circular in outline, and, like many of the West Indian volcanic islands, consisting of a 1 Proceedings of the Royal Colonial Institute, vol. xxii. p. 247. 28 British Colonisation platform more or less wide leading up to the slopes of a crater peak whose head is in the clouds. Nevis is celebrated as the birth-place of Alexander Hamilton, who became famous in the annals of the United States as a writer to The Federalist and a framer in company with others of the American Constitution. He was an orphan and poor, but, fretting at the condition of a clerk, came to New York in 1773. In the American War Hamilton's opinions were first on the side of the British, but he soon changed to the other side. 1 It may be noticed, also, that it was at Nevis that the great Nelson married ' the widow Nisbet,' a widow of a doctor ; and in one of the parish churches may be seen the entry of the marriage, at which William, Duke of Clarence, afterwards King William the Fourth, was best man. ANGUILLA. Anguilla, the third constituency of St. Kitts-Nevis, lies about fifty or sixty miles to the north-west of St. Kitts. It was dis- covered and appropriated by the English in 1650, who found it uninhabited. In 1668 it was reported by Lord Willoughby to be of little value, with a population of 200 to 300, mainly refugees. It was subject to occasional attacks from the French, and its peace was disturbed in 1796 by Victor Hugues, a partisan of Robespierre, who crossed over to the West Indies and endeavoured to spread in these islands the doctrines of the French Republic. Of the Anguilla colonists Mr. Eves has written : ' The islanders have always displayed the true insular qualities of bravery and independence. If they were only 100 strong they would meet 1000 of their foes with light hearts and good courage. The colonists were men as well as tillers of the soil. They had their virtues, passions, ambitions, fears and hopes ; and, living on this little island, they tried to conduct their affairs with propriety and success, remained steadfast to the British flag, and behaved 1 Bancroft's History of the United States, vol. iv. The West Indies 29 themselves generally as good citizens. For all these things they lived and died unnoticed, their deeds unsung by poets.' THE VIRGIN ISLANDS. The last and most northerly of the Leeward Islands are the Virgin Islands, which consist of thirty to forty small scattered islands due east of Porto Rico. Some of the Virgin Islands belong to Spain, and one of them, viz. St. Thomas, to Denmark. The principal members of the English group are (i) Anegada, the inundated island; (2) Virgin Gorda ; (3) Tortola. Anegada is ' merely a low reef elevated a few feet above the level of the sea.' Tortola, so named from the sea-tortoise, is composed of hills, the highest of which rises to nearly 1600 feet. ' The surface is much broken up into ravines, and nearly the whole of it has been under cultivation in former years, chiefly in sugar. Virgin Gorda is also hilly Virgin Gorda peak being 1370 feet high but apparently less fertile than Tortola. Copper mines have been worked here, but at present they are not productive. The inhabitants of these islands are hardy and skilful seamen. The climate is cool and healthy. The great drawback to cultivation is the destruc- tive hurricanes that occasionally sweep over these islands.' 1 To these must be added the little islands of Jost van Dyke discovered by the Dutch ; and Sombrero, so named by the Spaniards from its resemblance to a hat, and little more than a bare rock, forty feet high, valuable for phosphates. 2 THE WINDWARD ISLANDS. GRENADA. The islands of Grenada, the Grenadines, St. Vincent, and St. Lucia form officially the Windward Islands, the headquarters of government being at Grenada. The island was discovered 1 Proceedings of Royal Colonial Institute, vol. xxii. p. 248. 2 For facts and figures see Appendix I. Section G. 30 British Colonisation by Columbus in 1498. It lies in the route of the trade- winds, which makes its climate pleasanter than that of the Gulf of Paria. The island of Carriacou is one of the Grena- dines and a dependency of Grenada. It is about nineteen miles in circumference, lying to the north of Grenada. Some of the other islets in the neighbourhood are included under the Grenadines, and are cultivated. Grenada was inhabited originally by warlike Caribs, and was not occupied by Europeans until 1650, when the French Governor of Martinique, du Parquet, resolved to seize the island. The island was officially annexed to France in 1674. It remained in the possession of the French for nearly 100 years, when in 1762 it was taken by a British force, and finally ceded to Great Britain in 1763. This island, in common with many others, was. subject to the imposition of a 4^ per cent, duty upon its produce, payable to the King ; but the colonists objected to the impost, and in a well-known case before the King's Bench a decision was given in their favour by Lord Mansfield. As a sequel to this decision the duty had to be abandoned in Dominica, St. Vincent, and Grenada. In 1779 Grenada was retaken by the French, but in 1783, by the Versailles Treaty, was restored to England. Grenada is an island where the sugar industry, has been almost entirely blighted of recent years. In the earlier years of this century (from 1821-1831) the sugar produced an amount ranging annually from 12,000 to 20,000 tons. In 1873 tm ' s na d dropped 10-3600 tons, in 1883 to 1840 tons, and in 1887 to less than 200 tons. 1 In 1776 the exports of the island consisted of sugar, rum, coffee, cocoa, cotton, and indigo, amounting to the value of ^"600,000. The sugar was the produce of 106 plantations, worked by 18,293 slaves a return said to be unequalled by any other island in the West Indies excepting St. Kitts. 2 i The West Indies, by C. W. Eves, p. 208. - Martin's British Colonies, vol. ii. p. 283. The West Indies 31 ST. LUCIA. The island of St. Lucia, first discovered by the Spaniards on St. Lucia's Day, June 15, 1502, and first colonised by the French in 1635, ls tne m st beautiful of the Windward Islands. No island, however, has felt the scourge of war and din of civil tumult more than this one. Seven times at least the English have placed their feet upon the land as conquerors or colonists. Twice it yielded to Admiral Rodney once in 1762 and again in 1782 ; yet neither the Treaty of Paris nor the Peace of Versailles, following respectively upon these conquests, settled the question of dominion. Not until 1803 did the island finally pass into permanent British occupation by its capitulation to General Greenfield. No less than thrice has the island been given back to France ; and so when England gained it at last she gained a colony, to use Mr. Martin's words, 'with French population, language, and feelings.' In 1789 St. Lucia was the scene of wild republican revolt. The tricolour was hoisted on Morne Fortune, the celebrated stronghold of the island; estates were abandoned by the negroes, who, stirred up by the appeals of the well-known incendiary Citoyen Victor Hugues, fought for the rights of man. At this time matters looked serious in the West Indies, and Sir John Moore, the hero of Corunna, had to cope with most crafty and implacable enemies, who concealed themselves in the fastnesses of the island and carried on bush-fighting until 1797. Sir John Moore was nearly cap- tured on one occasion as he was being rowed along the coast, and the arduous work impaired his health seriously. It may be mentioned that during this island war the Duke of Kent, the father of Queen Victoria, succeeded in planting the English colours in 1794 upon Morne Fortune, although this act did not result then in permanent occupation. But this guerilla warfare carried on during 1790-97, san- guinary as it was, does not equal in importance the great fight 32 British Colonisation between Rodney and de Grasse in 1782. ' It was from a rock on Pigeon Island (an island on the extreme north of St. Lucia) that Rodney watched, through his glass, the move- ments of de Grasse's fleet as the stately ships came out of the harbour of Martinique. De Grasse was full of the anticipa- tions of victory. It was not for the possession of an island or two, but for a dominating influence in Europe, that the struggle was intended.' St. Lucia is within 24 miles of Martinique, of which at one time it was a dependency, and 2 1 miles of St. Vincent. From a strategic point of view the island has many advantages, the harbour of Castries, the value of which attracted the eye of Rodney and many other British officers, being the best in the whole West Indies. Recently it has been chosen as the chief coaling-station for the fleet, and is being strongly fortified. It is the second naval station in these waters. The island is noted for two remarkable rocks called Pitons, which guard the entrance to the Bay of Souffriere. One of them is said to be 3000 feet and the other 3300 feet high, both rising from the sea and tapering like church spires. A souffriere and boiling fountains are also amongst the sights of the island. Morne Fortune, the hill-fortress, 800 feet high, is perhaps the most interesting as it is the most historical spot in the island. ST. VINCENT. The island of St. Vincent, discovered by Columbus on the 22nd of January 1498, lies about 20 miles to the south-west of St. Lucia and 100 miles west of Barbados. Although the history of this settlement is not so diversified as that of St. Lucia, it has the unenviable distinction of having been swept (1780) by the fiercest hurricane ever known in the West Indies; also, of having been devastated by a most destructive volcanic eruption (1812). In the beginning it was found to be inhabited by the fiercest race of Caribs in the West Indies, who were a The West Indies 3 3 great obstacle to European rule. St. Vincent was peculiar in having a native question quite as embarrassing in its small way as that of New Zealand, and only solved thoroughly when Sir Ralph Abercromby transported, in 1797, no less than 5000 Caribs to the island of Ruatan, in the Bay of Honduras, and peace followed upon solitude. As if to make some small compensation for these vagaries of primitive man and these terrible inroads of Nature, the island of St. Vincent produces the best arrowroot in the West Indies. The Souffriere is the natural wonder of the island, and is said to present the grandest sight in the West Indies. The crater is three miles in circumference and 500 feet in depth, and contains within it a conical hill beautifully streaked with sulphur and covered with shrubs and flowers. The approach towards !t passes through a richly covered country until the summit is reached, when the bleak signs of volcanic action are visible. 'A mighty cloud of vapour fills the crater to the brim, gradually clears off, and then the awful majesty of the scene is unfolded. The eastern top of the crater is about 3500 feet above the level of the sea; a cold mist commonly rests upon the surface of the green, slimy, and unfathomable water at the bottom.' l THE BAHAMAS. The Bahamas are a scattered group of islands and reefs extending from the northern coast of St. Domingo to the east coast of Florida, divided almost equally by the Tropic of Cancer. They lie in a crescent-shape over 600 miles of ocean from south-east to north-west. On the west is the remarkable Great Bahama Bank and the Straits of Florida. They are said to number 29 islands, 661 'cays' or flats, and 2387 rocks. The Turks and Caicos would seem to form part of this island group, but politically they belong to Jamaica, as already 1 For facts and figures see Appendix I. Section H. C 34 British Colonisation shown. It was at one of the Bahamas, San Salvador or Watling Island, that Columbus made his landfall on that memorable day in October 1492, the scene of which is now being painted for the Chicago Exhibition by a well-known artist, Mr. Bierstadt. These islands were included in Sir H. Gilbert's charter, but no effective occupation took place. The island of New Providence became, at an early period of religious troubles in England, a refuge for many of the Non- conformists. 1 Later on the Bahamas, together with the provinces of North and South Carolina, were entrusted to the same Anglican Bishop, and the connection between the islands and the main- land was always very close. In 1612 they were regarded as part of Virginia. It was not, however, until 1666 that any real attempt was made to colonise the group, and settlers arrived from the Bermudas. New Providence became in time a mere nest of pirates and wreckers, of whom Edward Teach, a Bristol man, was the most notorious in those days. These were finally suppressed by Captain Woodes Rogers, noted for his voyage round the world (1708-11), during which he rescued Alexander Selkirk from his desert Island. Rogers became Governor of the Bahamas. At the time of the American War (1776) the islands were attacked and taken by Commodore Hopkins. The islands had become a refuge again for a different class of colonists, viz. fugitive Royalists from the States, who introduced cotton cultivation. Still later the group became the headquarters of many blockade-runners in the American Civil War, and many a daring deed of seamanship was done by British officers who ran the gauntlet from southern ports with their precious cargoes. Marryat has made the Bahamas figure largely in his romances of the sea, and no islands could be better adapted for his purpose. First the precarious abode of Puritan exiles, then the narrow perch of wreckers and pirates, then the asylum of Royalist 1 Anderson's Hist, of the Colonial Church, vol, ii, p. 295, The West Indies 35 refugees, then the headquarters of blockade-runners, the Bahamas have a thrilling record. More peaceful times appear to be in store for them. They are the market-gardens of the United States, sending thither cargoes of pineapples, oranges, and bananas ; and their sunny slopes afford a sanatorium for broken-down Americans, who find in the climate of the Bahamas those advantages which Europeans experience in Madeira and Tenerife. With regard to the occupation of the inhabitants, fishing is carried on largely by a fleet of 100 boats employing 500 sailors. Sponge-fishing is a flourishing sea industry, no less than ^60,000 worth being exported annually. The latest development, however, is the cultivation of the sisal fibre plant, which is attracting a large number of capitalists and giving a new turn to the industries of the Bahamas. 1 THE BERMUDAS. With the West Indies it is customary to associate the Bermudas, although they lie far to the north. It was thirty years after the first discoveries of Columbus that these distant islands, lying 600 miles off the American continent, were sighted by Europeans. A Spanish captain, Bermudaz by name, chanced across them in mid-ocean and was wrecked. English ships strove to avoid them, as they were considered dangerous and inhospitable places. * The islands were reported to be the habitation of furies and monsters, whose enchant- ments evoked fierce hurricanes, and rolling thunders, and visions of most hideous aspect. Shakspeare, accordingly, did but avail himself of the prevalent belief in these wild stories, and make this department, as indeed every other, of the world of fiction or of reality tributary to his own genius, when in the play of The Tempest he introduces Ariel as able "... to fly, To swim, to dive into the fire, to ride On the curl'd clouds," 1 For facts and figures see Appendix I, Section I. 36 British Colonisation and makes Ariel answer the question of Prospero by saying : "... Safely in harbour Is the king's ship, in the deep nook where once Thou call'dst me up at midnight to fetch dew From the still vext Bermoothes, there she 's hid." ' * It was upon these islands that the vessel containing Gates, Somers, and Newport, the leaders of the Virginia expedition in 1609, was wrecked. These colonists were surprised to see that these islands were so fair, but, notwithstanding, they were in a terrible plight. First they fitted out the long-boat and sent her with six sailors and the master's mate to Virginia ; but nothing more was heard of them. They resolved, however, to build a ship out of the oak-beams and planks belonging to the wrecked vessel and of the cedar-trees which grew on the island a task they effected with great labour. With regard to the discipline preserved amongst the crew during their sojourn on the island, it is interesting to read that ' wee had daily euery Sunday two Sermons preached by our Minister, besides euery Morning and Evening at the ringing of a bell wee repayred all to publique Prayer, at what time the names of our whole Company were called by Bill, and such as were wanting were duly punished.' 2 The shipwrecked crew managed to escape to Virginia, leaving tokens behind them. * Before we quitted our" old quarter and dislodged to the fresh water with our pinnass, our Governor set up in Sir George Summers' garden a fair Mne- mosynon in figure of a Crosse, made of some of the timber of our ruined shippe, which was scrued in with strong and great trunnels to a mightie Cedar. In the midst of the Crosse our Gouernour fastened the picture of his Majestic in a piece of siluer of twelue pence, and on each side of the Crosse he set an inscription grauen in Copper in the Latin and English to this purpose : In memory of our great deliuerance, both from a mightie storm and leake ; we haue set this up in 1 Anderson's Hist* of the Colonial Church, vol i. p. 206. 2 Ibid. p. 209. The West Indies 37 honour of God. It is the spoyle of our English ship (of three hundred tunne) called the Sea Venture, bound, with seven ships more (from which the storm divided us), to Virginia or Noua Britannia, in America.' Such was the first landing of the British upon the Bermudas, and the group certainly seemed to deserve its ill name which it had inherited from the Spaniards, and which had been cor- roborated by Sir Walter Ralegh (1595) and Champlain (1600), the great French explorer, who had described it as ' a moun- tainous island which it is difficult to approach on account of the dangers that surround it.' Somers returned to the Bermudas, and died there in the place which, in honour of his Christian name, is still called Georgetown. The islands were long called Somers Isles, after him. His heart was buried in the Bermudas, and a marble stone above it commemorates the fact that ' In the year 1611 Noble Sir George Summers went hence to heaven.'- His body was embalmed and buried at Whitechurch in Dorset- shire; Sir George, as well as Gates, his companion, being a west-countryman. The nephew of Somers was with him when he died, and upon his return to England gave such a flourishing account of the islands that 120 members of the Virginian Company were encouraged to plant a settlement there under the distinct name of 'The Somers Island Company,' and in 1612 Richard More, the first Governor, arrived there. This Governor, it is said, built the first church of timber; and when this was blown down he erected another, in a more sheltered place, of palmeto. 1 The chronicles of the little island are quaint reading. In one year there is a mention of five Irish sailors who, when permitted to build a boat for fishing purposes, make their escape to Ireland, having borrowed the minister's ' compasse 1 Anderson's Hist, of the Colonial Church, vol. i. p. 304. 38 British Colonisation diall': writing to him afterwards that as 'he had oft persuaded them to patience, and that God would pay them, though none did, he must now be contented with the loss of his diall with his own doctrine.' It is said that their boat, when it reached Ireland, was preserved as a monument, * having sailed 3300 miles by a right line thorow the maine sea,' and that the escapees were ' honourably entertained by the Earl of Tomund.' Another year we read of a plague of rats which had been imported in two ships, and multiplied so quickly that they threatened to destroy everything. Again, in these fair islands there was the demon of religious discord, and the two clergymen in the islands refuse to subscribe to the Book of Common Prayer ; so the Governor, by way of compromise, ' bethought him of the Liturgy of Gernsey and Jersey, wherein all the particulars they so much stumbled at were omitted.' As time went on it was thought that something great might come of the Somers Isles, and Lord Chancellor Bacon, enumerating the benefits and acts of King James (1620), observed : * This kingdom, now first in His Majesty's times, hath gotten a lot or portion in the new world by the Plantation of Virginia and the Summer Islands. And certainly, it is with the kingdoms on earth as it is in the kingdom of heaven ; sometimes a grain of mustard-seed proves a great tree ; who can tell?' In the time of the Civil Wars the Bermudas became a refuge for Loyalists, and the Long Parliament passed an Act pro- hibiting trade with Barbados, Antigua, and the Bermudas. The inhabitants have proved themselves to be skilful sailors, able to adventure, not only to the American coast, but far afield to the South Seas. In England they became better appreciated, and the ' . . . isle so long unknown, And yet far kinder than our own, Safe from the storms and prelates' rage,' appealed to the imagination of many English poets. Waller The West Indies 39 and Andrew Marvell both conferred distinction upon them. Moore has sung : ' May Spring to eternity hallow the shade Where Ariel has warbled and Waller has strayed.' At the beginning of the eighteenth century the Bermudas were best known as the contemplated scene of Bishop Berke- ley's missionary enterprises. These islands were to be a centre of light and teaching, and the great idealist seemed wholly carried away by his project ; as if here, indeed, to use Lord Bacon's expression, the mustard-seed of truth was to grow and flourish till it overspread the New World. Swift wrote thus of Berkeley and his scheme (1724) : 'Berkeley is an absolute philosopher with regard to money, titles, and power, and for three years past has been struck with a notion of founding a University at Bermuda by a charter from the Crown. He has seduced most of the hopefullest young clergy- men and others here, many of them well provided for, and all in the fairest way for preferment ; but in England his conquests are greater, and, I doubt, will spread very far this winter. He most exorbitantly proposes a whole hundred pounds a year for himself, fifty pounds for a fellow, and ten for a student. His heart will break if his Deanery be not taken from him and left at your Excellency's disposal. I discouraged him by the coldness of Courts and Ministers, who will interpret all this as impossible and a vision; but nothing will do.' We know that the philosopher's scheme was a failure, and that the 'St. Paul's College in Bermuda' never sprang into existence no more than the city of Bermuda, for which Berkeley had made elegant designs from architectural models seen in Italy. But Berkeley got so far as to obtain George i.'s approval for the grant of ^20,000 from the purchase- money of the island of St. Christopher, ceded to England by the Treaty of Utrecht, as an endowment of the contemplated St. Paul's College ; and the whole scheme proves that at the beginning of the eighteenth century there were not wanting 40 British Colonisation many Englishmen who were willing to volunteer their services abroad as teachers and pastors of the subject races. For North America was in the eighteenth century what Africa has been in the nineteenth century the great field of missionary enterprise. 1 These little islands, lying in the track of vessels going to and fro, were used as a basis for privateering; and in the American War Washington wished to gain possession of them to make them ' a nest of hornets ' for the annoyance of the British. But the Bermudas, standing in the ocean as the watch- tower of the continent, rose in importance as a strategic point. In 1794 Admiral Murray recommended the construction of a dockyard, and, Ireland Island being selected, the fortifications were begun in 1810. The natural position was strong, as the sunken coral reef, through which access can be gained only by a few narrow channels, would prove a formidable obstacle to an enemy. The Bermudas was the station whither Lord Durham wished to send the disaffected Canadians in 1838. There is little of interest in the history of the island since the commencement of the works which made it a naval depot and arsenal. In 1815 the town of Hamilton became the seat of government, and in 1834 the slave emancipation took effect in the island. Next to Gibraltar the Bermudas form the smallest dependency of Great Britain. 2 GENERAL SUMMARY. The history of the West Indies has been mainly the history of the fortunes of the British sugar-planter. Great and pro- sperous as they were at first, they have been gradually depreci- ated by a succession of legislative measures. From being the favoured protege of British commerce, State-aided and State- supported, the planter has almost become the persecuted 1 See Life of Bishop Berkeley, by Alexander Campbell Fraser, M.A., 1871. 2 For facts and figures see Appendix I. Section K. The West Indies 41 victim of all nations and all policies. By the abolition of the slave trade in 1807, by the Emancipation Act of 1834, by the hard measure of equalisation the unkindliest blow of all from the paternal hand by the bounties of foreign States, violating the first principles of Free Trade, he has been brought low. We cannot but pity the hard estate of this struggling capitalist, who after all inherited, and did not inaugurate, the curse of slavery. A countervailing duty at English ports is the crumb of consolation he asks for in order to fight the foreign sugar producer fairly ; but even this is denied him. However, the West Indian planter's courage has never forsaken him, even in his direst extremity, and by every avail- able expedient in his power he is striving to rehabilitate him- self. He has recognised that the crux of his position lies in the solution of the labour question. He has turned to the east, and is now busily engaged in redressing the evils of the West Indies by calling in the labour markets of the East Indies. Mr. Nevil Lubbock, a great authority on West Indian affairs, has observed : ' No one who has any knowledge of British Guiana or Trinidad will doubt that their present prosperity is entirely due to the Indian immigration.' 1 In British Guiana alone there are 110,000 East Indians. Another recent feature in the history of the West Indies, and especially Jamaica, is the hold which American capitalists are obtaining upon them, who are taking up unoccupied positions and developing garden produce of every description. These American capitalists are far-sighted men, and rightly imagine that these beautiful and productive islands cannot long lie desolate. The vastly increasing population of the United States afford the best field for the products of the West Indies a large portion of the sugar produced there being shipped to the States. Canada also is a growing market, and the Dominion Government have recently subsidised a line of steamers thither. What may still be done in the West Indies by energy and enterprise has been ably pointed out by Mr. Morris, assistant- 1 Proceedings of the Royal Colonial Institute, vol. xxi. 42 British Colonisation director of the Kew Gardens. 1 ' The production of sugar can by no means occupy all the available lands suitable for culti- vation in the West Indies. It is well that it is so : what is wanted is a diversified system of cultural industries, so that there may be no collapse of prosperity, as at present, on account of fluctuation in the price of any single article. The physical configuration of the West Indian islands, where there are all gradations from plains to slopes and mountain sides, points to this conclusion. We cannot do better, therefore, than take them as they are, and endeavour to cultivate them in such a skilful and suitable manner as to render them a source of wealth and prosperity to the community. On lands not already occupied with sugar, and where sugar-growing does not prove remunerative, there are numerous industries that might be successfully established. What has been accomplished in this respect at Jamaica and other West Indian islands is a sufficient proof that a system of diversified industries is in the long-run the best and most lasting. ' Besides sugar, then, we should endeavour to select a number of industries well suited to the soil and climate. Of these, none perhaps are more promising at present than coffee. There are two sorts of coffee the Liberian coffee, for warm, humid valleys, and the Arabian coffee, for hilly slopes up to two or three thousand feet. The mountains of Dominica could grow as fine a coffee as any in the world : while other people are investigating remote parts of the world for suitable coffee lands, here, within easy range of us, are some of the finest coffee lands to be found in any part of the tropics. There are, besides, the highlands of Montserrat, of St. Kitts, Nevis, and the hills of Tortola and Virgin Gorda. 'Cacao is easy of culture, and thrives in the rich soil of humid valleys. These are to be had in Dominica in abundance, and they are not wanting, also, in Montserrat and St. Kitts. Spices, such as nutmeg and mace, vanilla, black pepper, cubeb pepper, long pepper, cloves, ginger, cinnamon, cardamoms, are 1 Proceedings of the Royal Colonial Institute, 1890-91. TJte West Indies 43 already introduced to this part of the world. The demand for spices is increasing, and these islands could grow every one of these mentioned. 1 A great factor in the future development of these islands is the growing of fruit. They are geographically the Channel Islands of the Northern Continent, and their manifest destiny is to grow such special products and such fruits and vegetables as the more temperate countries are unable to produce for them- selves. Bananas are in great demand in the United States and Canada. The production of these is large, but evidently the trade is only in its infancy. Jamaica alone exports nearly a quarter of a million sterling worth of bananas every year, but the Northern people want more and more. Bananas yield a crop in a year or so ; the bunches sell for about seven to ten pounds per hundred, for which ready money is paid. The planter can thus clear fifteen to twenty pounds per acre for his fruit, while under the shade of the banana plants he is establishing his land with cacao, coffee, spices, or other permanent growths. c Besides bananas there are many fruits in great demand, such as oranges, pineapples, shaddocks, forbidden fruit, sapodilla, mango, avocado pear, granadilla, water-lemon, water- melon, tamarind, guava, cocoa-nut, Barbados cherry, star-apple, papaw, sweet sop, sour sop, sugar-apple, mammee-apple, lime, lemon, grapes, figs, cashew-nut, ground-nut, loquat, Malay-apple, rose-apple, pomegranate, almond, genip, damson plum, balata, breadfruit, date, mangosteen, and durian. All these and many more are found on these islands are found, indeed, in the small island of Dominica ; but some are at present practically unknown to Northern people. * Then besides fruits there are abundant supplies of vege- tables, which could be shipped to reach Northern markets in the depth of winter, and realise good prices. The finest green peas, the best new potatoes, and the most luscious tomatoes are procurable here a fortnight before Christmas, and the supply is limited only by the means at hand for disposing of them, and getting them quickly and freshly into the proper market. 44 British Colonisation ' The cultivation of the West Indian lime has already been discussed. Of fibres suited for cordage and weaving purposes there are at least a score or two that could easily be grown. Sisal hemp (Agave) is now being largely taken up in the neigh- bouring Bahamas. If more land is required to grow this fibre, there are thousands of acres in Anguilla and the Virgin Islands exactly suited to its requirements. Mauritius hemp could be grown at Anguilla and elsewhere ; there is Egyptian cotton and ordinary cotton to be tried at Antigua, St. Kitts, and Anguilla; tobacco at St. Kitts, where long ago it was a staple industry ; cocoa-nuts for fresh nuts, for oil, for fibre, and for cocoa-nut butter, for all islands possessing sandy beaches. And besides these there are industries in arrow-root, in cola-nut, in fruit syrups, india-rubber, scent plants, and numerous medicinal plants. A promising new industry is that of gambier, used for tanning purposes.' References : The West Indies, by C. Washington Eves, 1889. Historical Geography of the British Colonies , vol. ii. , by C. P. Lucas. Martin's British Colonies, 1834. Gardner's History of Jamaica, 1873. Schomburgk's History of Barbados, 1848. De Verteuil's Trinidad, 1884. Gibb's British Honduras, 1883. Schomburgk's Description of British Gtiiana, 1840 Among the Indians of Guiana, by im Thurn, 1883. Voyage in the Sunbeam, 1884. At Last, by Canon Kingsley, 1871. CHAPTER III NEWFOUNDLAND THE island of Newfoundland enjoys the peculiar honour of being the oldest of Great Britain's numerous colonies and settlements. A Bristol Chronicle of ancient date records that 'in the year 1497, the 24th of June, on St. John's Day, was Newfoundland found by Bristol men in a ship called the Matthew.' This is generally accepted to be the brief state- ment of a great fact, and the leader of the enterprise was a Cabot. Questions have arisen whether it was John Cabot or Sebastian his son, whether the Cabots were of Italian or of English birth, and whether the first landfall was that of the island of Newfoundland or the continent of America. Those who have examined these matters believe that, although John Cabot was the moving spirit of the expedition, it was his son Sebastian, then from twenty-five to thirty years old, who was the navigator in command. There seems no doubt as to the Italian extraction of the Cabots. John Cabot, a Genoese by birth and a Venetian by citizenship, 'came to London to follow the trade of merchandise,' and afterwards settled at Bristowa, or Bristol, where probably Sebastian was born. Here, in the west of England, was the important centre of England's trade and commerce ; here, for generations, trade was carried on with the Baltic, Norway, Holland, Hamburg, and all parts of Europe. The town was placed more favour- ably than London for all Western and Southern ventures, and here there lived some of the hardiest sailors in the world. 45 46 British Colonisation Down the Bristol Channel and along the coasts of Devon there were never wanting sailors who, whether from Dartmouth, Plymouth, Fowey, Barnstaple, or Bridgwater, were willing to explore the furthest regions of the world, then for the first time thrown open to the enterprise of Europe by the skill and perseverance of the great Columbus. Bristol was especially noted for its ventures to Iceland and to the northern fisheries, back to those homes of the old Scandinavian sea-kings ; and therefore such an enthusiastic geographer and enterprising merchant as John Cabot would find a very congenial home here. The Cabots were especially anxious to discover the north-west passage and the fabled island of Cipango in the equinoctial region, ' where it was believed there were gems and all the spices of the world.' Such was the temper of the age, and such the enthusiasm inspired by the example of Columbus, that Cabot had no difficulty in obtaining from Henry vn. a charter for himself and his three sons, Lewis, Sebastian, and Sanctus. He gathered men for his expedition from Bristol and Bridgwater, * the sailors of the latter place being renowned for their love of enterprise.' The tidal river of the Parret, on which Bridgwater is built, extends far up from the Bristol Channel towards the historic regions of Athelney, Glastonbury, and King's Sedgemoor, and has borne on its waters adventurers who have gone forth to fight and trade from the days of King Alfred to those of the great Admiral Blake, who was born close to its tawny flood. Sebastian Cabot, therefore, gathering his west-country crew together, steered his vessel probably along the well-known Iceland tack in the first instance, and then westwards until he sighted a part of the coast of Labrador, winning for British sailors and for himself the honour of being the first to sight the American continent a feat which Columbus himself, who had been exploring and naming the numerous islands of the Caribbean Seas, did not accomplish till his last voyage. This took place in the course of the following year, when he coasted Newfoundland 47 along a part of the Isthmus of Darien. 1 Steering southwards along the stormy regions of Labrador, Cabot sighted New- foundland, which was first of all called Baccalaos, or the land of cod-fish. Thus Newfoundland was seized for England by the skill of Cabot ; and Samuel Purchas, in his admiration for this and for subsequent explorations of this notable ' Pilot,' argues that the continent of America should not have been so called from Americus Vesputius, but Cabotiana or Sebastiana from Cabot. As it is, the name of Cabot is not to be found upon the map of America, and has only been recently given by the Newfound- land Legislature, on the occasion of the erection of a light- house, to a group of barren islands on the Newfoundland coast. Cabot's second expedition under Henry vn.'s charter con- sisted of five ships, and he ' directed his course by the tract of Iceland upon the Cape of Labrador at 58. He then turned to the west, following the coast of Baccalaos to lat. 38, whence he returned to England.' 2 On this second voyage Cabot got as far as Hudson's Straits, where he was turned back by ice. In the west country the fame of these discoveries went far and wide, and the desire of making the north-west passage was long present to the minds of the sailors of the western ports. In old Martin Frobisher's days there was an expedition to find the fabled Straits of Anian and the kingdom of the great Khan. Here again the sailors of the Parret are to the fore. There is the Ema of Bridgwater and the Emanuel of Bridgwater, vessels found in Frobisher's third expedition. It may be mentioned that at Meta Incognita, at the entrance of Hudson's Straits, about the limit of Sebastian Cabot's second voyage, Frobisher and his fleet turned aside to what they thought were glittering gold-mines in the Arctic Seas, and so for many weeks ballasted their ships with heaps of stones, glittering with mica, imagining the true El Dorado to be under the Pole, and not in Mexico or Peru. The Bridgwater 1 Campbell's Lives of the Admirals (1779), vol. i. p. 328. - Proceedings of the Royal Colonial Institute, vol. xvi. p. 225. 48 British Colonisation captains, one of whom was almost wrecked in the ice-floes of the north, were bitterly disappointed when, in company with the ships of Fowey and Barnstaple, they returned empty- handed. 1 Although by right of discovery Newfoundland was the prize of the British crew under Cabot, no official proclamation was made on the island until the 5th of August 1583, when, under commission from Queen Elizabeth, Sir Humphrey Gilbert, the well-known west-country sailor, landed on the island. Sir Walter Ralegh, his half-brother, had started with him on the expedition, but was compelled to return owing to sickness breaking out on board his vessel. The ships commanded by Gilbert which arrived at Newfoundland were the Delight, the Golden Hind, the Swallow, and the Squirrel. When they arrived they found a foreign fishing-fleet there, who offered at first some opposition ; but afterwards, in the presence of the merchants and fishermen of all nations assembled there, Sir Humphrey opened and read his commission, and informed them that by virtue of the Royal grant he assumed possession and government of St. John's and the adjoining territory to the extent of 200 leagues. ' There were delivered to him in token of submission the feudal symbols of turf and twig ; and there he raised the English banner and erected a wooden pillar, to which were attached the arms of England engraved on lead. He granted several parcels of land in consideration of rent and services, and laid a tax upon shipping.' The occupation was complete and final, and from that day of August 1583 to the present England has maintained her sovereignty. It was on his return voyage that Sir Humphrey Gilbert went down in the Squirrel uttering these well-known words : ' Cheer up, lads ; we are as near heaven by sea as by land.' It will be seen, therefore, that although the occupation of Newfoundland was complete and formal, the shadows of disaster fell upon its early career as a colony. Sir Walter Ralegh was baulked of his intention to be an cekist or leader 1 Frobisher's Voyages, Hakluyt Series. Newfoundland 49 of the enterprise, and Sir H. Gilbert perished in the stormy waters of the North Atlantic. Had things been otherwise, Sir Walter Ralegh's energies might have been directed to New- foundland and the Gulf of St. Lawrence instead of further south to Virginia. West-countrymen, however, still pursued the enterprise. Mr. John Guy, merchant, and Mayor of Bristol, obtained a grant of a great part of Newfoundland from James i., in company with Lord Bacon and a number of noblemen and gentlemen. The great value of the island from the very beginning con- sisted in its fisheries. Raimondo di Soncino, writing to the Duke of Milan (1497) on the subject of Newfoundland, observes that * Englishmen, Cabot's partners, say that they can bring so many fish that this kingdom will have no more business with Islanda (Iceland), and that from that country there will be a very great trade in the fish which they call stock- fish.' The Venetian ambassador at the Court of Portugal, writing in 1501, describes the island and people of New- foundland as having 'plenty of salmon, herring, cod, and other fish.' Three years after Cabot, Caspar Cortereal, a Portuguese gentleman, had sailed to Newfoundland and the north-west, and had been wrecked and lost in those northern waters a fate which overtook his brother Michael, who had sailed in search of him. The Portuguese, therefore, keen mariners as they were, became alive to the value of the northern fisheries. A place called Portuguese Cove still remains as a proof of their enterprise. But the Breton and Biscayan fishermen were the most per- sistent fishermen off the banks of Newfoundland. An old writer says that ' the Brytons and French are accustomed to take fyssche on the coast of these lands, where there is found great plenty of Tunnyes'; and in 1527 an English expedition under Captain Rut found at Newfoundland eleven sail of Normans, one Breton, and two Portugal barks engaged in fishing at St. John's harbour. In 1578 the number of vessels employed in the cod fisheries was 400, of whom only 50 were D 50 British Colonisation English. The value, however, of the enormous supplies of fish was clear to all Englishmen. Lord Bacon declared that 'the fisheries of Newfoundland were more valuable than all the mines of Peru' ; and from such a source of wealth Englishmen, with their seafaring aptitudes, were not likely to be long debarred. In 1615 there were nearly three hun- dred English ships engaged in the fisheries; and in 1674 it was calculated that no fewer than 11,000 seamen were em- ployed in the industry, and a permanent colony began to be formed. One of the most interesting incidents in the history of the island during the seventeenth century was the organised settle- ment of Lord Baltimore (Sir George Calvert, 1624). As Under Secretary of State, he obtained a grant of the island from James i. Being converted to the Roman Catholic faith, he had to resign his Ministerial post, and determined to settle on the peninsula of Avalon in Newfoundland, a name given by himself after that spot in England in the valley of the Somersetshire Parret. Here, at a place called Ferryland, Lord Baltimore lived for some time, and here he was exposed to the hostilities of the French, who had obtained a large share of the island under charter from Charles I., to whom at first they paid tribute. Lord Baltimore was compelled to abandon the settlement and Avalon, and, going further south to the mainland of America, he founded the State of Maryland and the city of Baltimore. Sir David Kirke became grantee of the possessions of Lord Baltimore, and, being a staunch Loyalist, he offered Charles i. an asylum in Newfoundland, of which, possibly, he might have availed himself had he been able to escape. It will easily be understood how this contested dominion with France retarded the peaceful settlement of the island. As perpetual and as unending as the storms around its cliffs has been the rivalry between French and English sailors. The maritime enterprise of the French nation at an early date fully equalled, if it did not excel, that of the British. The Newfoundland 5 1 French were the first to set aside the restriction of Pope Alexander's bull that divided the New World between Spain and Portugal. It is a well-known fact that the merchant ven- turers of Rouen and the seamen of Normandy sailed to the Gold Coast, and founded factories and settlements at Elmina, Fantin, and Cormontin long before our Bristol venturers had explored these regions. Greatest of all, perhaps, was Jacques Cartier of St. Malo, who hoisted the flag of his nation on the coasts of Newfoundland, sailed up the St. Lawrence, and laid the foundation of New France, that afterwards was destined, under the able guidance and management of generations of Frenchmen, to attain to such goodly proportions. In the island of Newfoundland, therefore, the British sailors found no undisputed heritage, but a colony for which they have been compelled to fight hard, and to expend much toil and labour. Under the rough circumstances of the island, a fixed and stable government was out of the question. According to a well-known statute that was promulgated in the reign of William in., it was provided that the master of any sailing-vessel from England, Wales, or Berwick-upon-Tweed, who, in each year, first entered any harbour or creek in the island should be admiral of the harbour or creek, and have full power to decide all differences between the fishermen and the inhabitants. During the seventeenth century, and especially at its close, the fortunes of Newfoundland as a colony were at a low ebb. No Englishmen thought of settling and making their homes there, as at New Plymouth and along the Alleghanies. The popular idea was that Newfoundland was simply an 'out- station for fishing and a nursery for sailors,' and the owners and masters of ships were absolutely forbidden to carry emigrants thither. The island was little better off than a remote whaling-station might be in the South Pacific. The profits of the cod fisheries went home and enriched the merchants and capitalists in London and Bristol. With such a migratory population coming and going every year, there could be no settled form of government, no fixed society, no 52 British Colonisation prosperous and self-supporting colony. In 1697, by the Treaty of Ryswick, the French were left in undisturbed possession of many places, and especially Placentia, which was naturally a very strong vantage-ground. 1 By the Treaty of Utrecht, how- ever, England in 1713 had closed once and for all the question of sovereignty. The colonists themselves helped her by many a gallant action to win the day against France, and it was won first of all along the islands and peninsulas. But the Treaty of Utrecht (1713), whilst it closed one question, opened the door for another which has been a continual source of irritation both to Newfoundland and Great Britain herself from that day to this. At the time of this treaty, and subsequently upon the occasion of the surrender of Quebec in 1763, Great Britain could have swept the French fishermen off the Atlantic waters. This would have been the natural corollary of the con- quest of New France in the eighteenth century. The fisheries of the ocean are of no use to fishermen who cannot procure bait, or count upon a foothold close by to serve either as a harbour of refuge, a drying-shed, or general depot. Great Britain, by de- barring France from such a foothold, could have settled the fisheries question once and for all. But as the importance, probably, of the fisheries did not appear so large in the eighteenth century as it does now, the French were allowed to retain the adjoining small islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon on the grounds of humanity. This concession dates from the Treaty of Utrecht. Thrice after the Peace of Utrecht these islands became the prize of war : first, when they were captured in 1778 by a squadron under Admiral Montague, in consequence chiefly of the privateering that was carried on from them ; next, when ten years later, in the un- settled times of the Revolution, they were seized by way of precaution; and, lastly, in March 1804, when the tricolour was replaced by the British flag. Great Britain, however, missed her opportunity and restored them to France both by 1 The author's History of Newfoundland and the Dominion of Canada^ pp. 105-106. Newfoundland 5 3 the Peace of Amiens and also by the Treaty of Paris in 1814. It must be added that Great Britain also conceded France certain shore rights on the coasts of Newfoundland itself which have been the source of the greatest irritation. The French shore rights have been clearly stated on a recent occasion by Sir William Whiteway, the Premier of Newfound- land x : ' We go back a period of nearly 200 years, and we find that from 1713 to 1814 treaties were entered into between Great Britain and France, under conditions of facts and cir- cumstances very different from those which exist at the present time. I would remind you, too, that at the periods to which I refer the policy of the British Government and of the French Government also was to send forth from their respective countries fleets of fishing-vessels to fish on the coast and banks of the island, and to bring back to their respective countries the result of their labours. It was at that time, and up to seventy or eighty years ago, prohibited for a master of a British vessel to leave a single man of his crew on the island under a heavy penalty : settlement was discouraged, almost prohibited. . . . The masters of ships had first choice of a locality whereon to cure and dry their fish before a resident dared make such selection in the harbours. It was not until comparatively recent years that grants of land could be made on the island, the whole policy being to treat Newfoundland as a fishing- station. ... It was not surprising that under these circum- stances a concurrent right was given on a certain portion of the coast to Frenchmen to fish in common with British sub- jects, and to land during the fishing season and cure and dry their fish upon the strand. In addition there were conceded to France the islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon, on the south coast of Newfoundland ; but in connection with these treaties declarations were exchanged by the Kings of France and England to the effect that, amongst other things, these islands should be held really as a place of shelter for French fishermen, and not be made an object of jealousy between the two nations. 1 Proceedings of the Royal Colonial Institttte, vol. xxii. 54 British Colonisation The declaration also provided, on the part of the King of England, the French should not be interrupted by the com- petition of the British fishermen. That is, concisely, the condition of affairs at the present time. How have circum- stances changed ? Newfoundland has become inhabited, and St. Pierre and Miquelon, instead of being only a place of shelter for French fishermen, have become a port from which the fishing-vessels are fitted out to fish on the banks, and have become a place of export for the produce of the fisheries. Instead of these islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon being only a place of shelter . . . they are now a centre from which fisheries are carried on and smuggling is done. We have, on the other hand, one lever by which we can meet the French. There are two bays adjacent to St. Pierre and Miquelon these bays being on the coast of Newfoundland which teem with herring in the early part of the fishing-season. From these two bays alone can the French obtain the bait to enable them to prosecute the earlier fisheries. If we, then, can stop their obtaining that bait, we materially interfere with the prosecution of their fishing-voyages. We have been obliged to adopt a course prohibitory to the supply of the bait because the French have, by their enormous bounties, so inflated their fisheries as to compete with us in foreign markets to the extent of almost excluding our products from these markets. We say to them fairly : " We will give you all the bait you require : give as much bounty as you please to the fish consumed within French possessions or in France ; but if you wish to fish on banks which are common fishing-grounds to all the world, we desire to fish with you on even terms. We will give you sufficient bait for your purposes, but withdraw your bounties from your fish exported to foreign countries ; if not, we will use the most strenuous endeavours to prevent your obtaining that bait which enables you to get the article in which you compete with us in foreign markets in a way that drives us out of those markets." ' This is so much of that vexed question that con- cerns baits and bounties, and it is easy to see that under- Newfoundland 5 5 lying the whole controversy there is a deep and essential difference between the English and French Governments on the first principles of commercial and fiscal policy. The bounty system is no doubt an extravagant violation of Free Trade and common fairness ; and as the French have succeeded in dealing a blow to our West Indian sugar industry by means of bounties, so here in the case of Newfoundland they seek to cripple our colonial fisheries. With regard to the question of the 700 miles of Newfound- land coast, from Cape St. John to Cape Ray, the question between French and British fishermen is still more complicated. In this case there are territorial difficulties of a particularly irk- some and vexatious character. By the declaration of the King of England, British fishermen were not to interrupt the French in the prosecution of their fisheries, and the French had the right of landing for the purpose of curing and drying their fish. 'Now, the only fish,' Sir William Whiteway observes, 'which can be cured and dried are cod, haddock, and ling. At all events, at the times of the treaties the only fishery carried on was the cod fishery, and I submit that the treaties referred to the cod fisheries alone. ... I must describe how this fish is cured. A small erection on the beach, extending generally a little out of the water, is a place where the fish is split and salted. It is then spread either on the beach or on what are termed flakes, constructed of frames of poles with boughs spread over them, along the shore. About 200 or 300 yards at most would afford ample room for drying or curing the product of the voyage of any one fishing-vessel. Would you, or could you, believe that under these circumstances France demands that " we shall keep one half-mile all round that coast as a belt on which we are not to erect a building of any description because they may any day require to come and dry their fish there " ? This right naturally interferes with any mining or agricultural projects along the coast, and is a great hindrance to the development of the northern half of Newfoundland. It is said that a Newfound- land capitalist, discovering a lead-mine within 300 yards of the 56 British Colonisation coast, sank a shaft with a view of working it \ but his project formed shortly afterwards the subject of a remonstrance from the French Government. If a factory for the canning of lobsters is erected by a British subject, he can be compelled to remove it, and witness perhaps the substitution of a French factory in its place. Such are the causes of friction subsisting between English and French on the coasts of Newfoundland, and it cannot be denied that they are of an exceptional character. In our dealings with France the whole question, considering how little there is really at stake, may seem like a surface ripple ; but the cause of friction lies deep down in the general relations elsewhere between France and England. It has perhaps been truly said that it is the British occupation of Egypt that makes the New- foundland difficulties hard to adjust. Moreover, there are two main considerations which induce France to hold on to this shred of Transatlantic empire with a tenacious grip. The fisheries are profitable, and they nurse in a peculiar way the sentiment of patriotism of Northern France. All along the French littoral, we are told, from Dunkerque to St. Jean de Luz, there is not a hamlet which has not sent forth the prime of its youth to court danger and to seek wealth on the dreary coasts of Newfoundland ; whilst the perils of the fisherman's calling are immortalised in the verses of Basque and Breton peasantry, and the gallantry of Newfoundland privateers is still sung in the 'tween-decks of the miserable craft which annually put forth in fleets to the cod fisheries of Newfound- land. It may really be doubted whether there are, in propor- tion, so many hardy sailors along the historic coasts of Devon and Cornwall who know how * to hand, reef, and steer,' and excel in all the arts of seamanship, as there are now along the coasts of France. The whole population of St. Pierre and Miquelon is about 5000 souls, and has been classified under the following heads : i. The old residents who were ousted from New- foundland by the Treaty of Utrecht in 1713, sprung from the Newfoundland 57 Basque and Breton settlers in Acadie or Nova Scotia. 2. The Hivernants or temporary French settlers who make only so- journs upon the islands for the sake of trade. 3. The con- sort es or annual visitors, fishermen by calling, thousands of whom arrive every year. These would form the chief recruit- ing material of the French navy or mercantile marine, and there can be no doubt that they are most able and efficient seamen. The soil of these islands is not cultivated to any extent, only 2500 acres being occupied by the French. The chief and only harvest is the harvest of the sea. Newfoundland cod is considered superior to that caught off the coasts of Scotland, Norway, around Iceland, and the Faroes. In the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries the Basque Provinces were made rich by this trade, and at the present moment the trade of Newfoundland with Roman Catholic Europeans, Brazil, and the inhabitants of the West Indies is very large and lucrative. Amongst the best cus- tomers of the Newfoundland fishermen are the Portuguese both in Europe and Brazil, who buy half of the yearly pro- duce ; the Spaniards ; and the Italians. Canadian Roman Catholics catch their own fish, and so do the inhabitants of the United States. The French fishing-fleet comes over annually, and forms in the early spring a somewhat picturesque procession across the ocean. The larger rig are few in number ; but brigs, brigan- tines, schooners, and even yawls, are to be met with in fifties and sixties. Many of these vessels are unseaworthy, and carry crowds of passengers or consortes, a small craft often stowing away 200 or 300 souls on board. Prior to starting, each able-bodied seaman obtains an advance of 150 to 200 francs, which is handed over to wife or mother. The produce of the season's fishing at the expiration of the voyage is thus divided : Four-sevenths goes to the owner and three-sevenths to the crew. The three-sevenths is again subdivided into shares, of which the captain takes three, the mate two, each able seaman one, and a mousse half-a- 58 British Colonisation share. The passage-money of the consortes, who vary in number from 50 to 150, according to the size of the craft, is from 4 to 6 ; and in addition to this they are required to pay 100 francs as freight for their boats. On their return voyage they are allowed five quintals of dried fish as free luggage. In order to encourage this industry the French Government grant 2 to every man, whether sailor borne on the logs or consortes, embarked on board of the Newfoundland fishing-vessels, and a bounty of 8s. 4d. per cwt. (twenty francs per quintal) on all dry cod or cod's roe imported into France. Sometimes more than ^200,000 has been allotted in the Budget for bounties. 1 Historically the island of Newfoundland is to all Englishmen one of the most interesting of our colonial possessions. Ever since the day when in 1583 Sir Humphrey Gilbert hoisted the English flag in the presence of the fishermen there, sailors from Bristol and the coasts of Devon have plied their hardy vocation there ; and all round the coast the very nomenclature of bays and capes and straits shows how they have stepped into the heritage of Breton and Basque and Portuguese fisher- men. Strategically, the island occupies a most commanding position at the mouth of the Gulf of the St. Lawrence. The power that holds Newfoundland has a rare vantage-ground. If England were left entirely without her great continental colonies in North America by mismanagement or misadventure, she might still hope to retain such an insular position as New- foundland an island not altogether unlike the Mother-country in general physical configuration, lying along the same parallels of latitude, including about the same area of land, and nursed in somewhat similar fashion with the Mother-country amid the tempests and fogs of the northern seas. The strength of Newfoundland lies, like the strength of England, in her insular and at the same time commanding position with reference to an adjoining continent, and also in her hardy brood of sailors. 1 See Captain Norman's Colonial France. Newfou ndland 5 9 The bounty and bait difficulties may possibly be rectified by some new turn in legislation which at present does not appear. In her numerous bays Newfoundland has the immense advantage of possessing an inexhaustible supply of bait, and with this and other natural advantages at hand she can afford to wait. Suggestions have been made that France should receive in exchange for her fisheries rights a portion of West Africa, whither the eyes of her colonial statesmen are at present turned with the hope and ambition of erecting a North African empire ; and, perhaps, with more magnificent ideas of a continental empire at her very doors, France may get tired of subsidising the fishing industry of St. Pierre and Miquelon. Apart from considerations already adduced, it has, however, been asserted that France clings to this remnant of her Trans- atlantic empire, in St. Pierre and Miquelon, from other and more doubtful motives. In the prosperity of Quebec she reads a new version of her own prosperity, and in the preva- lence along the St. Lawrence of French language, customs, laws, and the old religion she recognises her own peculiar influences and civilisation. She cannot forget that her pioneers, traders, missionaries, and pathfinders of former generations laid the foundations of Canada in the first instance. By the light of this consideration the islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon acquire a new significance and convey a new reading. A foothold in the new world yet remains to them : a narrow perch, certainly, but a vantage-ground of undefined, and perhaps indefinable, possibilities. They lie in the path of commerce, and attract annually hundreds of Frenchmen, and keep alive French sentiments and maritime traditions from year to year along a distinct channel. Whatever the political status of Canada may ultimately prove to be whether absorption into the great Republic or a closer political incorporation with the British Empire under a great federal system France may argue that she cannot do wrong in holding to a position the value of which may be 60 British Colonisation enormously enhanced by some development yet lying hid in the womb of time. With regard to Newfoundland itself, English public opinion has often been grossly ignorant or marvellously misinformed. The stream of emigrants has passed by it and gone to Ontario or to the provinces of the Far West, and made Canada more familiar to us than Newfoundland. Epigrammatically the island has been spoken of as noted for its fogs and dogs, without any great foundation of truth. The sea-fogs do not extend far inland, and the climate is said to be less trying than that of England. The vegetating season is about six weeks shorter, but the winter is more bright and cheerful than in England. Although the interior of Newfoundland is comparatively un- occupied and even unexplored, there are said to be fully 3,000,000 acres of land adapted for settlement and cultiva- tion. When we consider that St. John's, the chief port of Newfoundland, is only 1640 miles from Ireland, it is clear that we have, in these days of quick steaming, an area of colonisa- tion close at hand. Newfoundland has not been very fairly treated in the past. At the beginning she suffered from the evils of an unsettled government, differing slightly from the conditions of mob-rule or the rough and-ready administrations of mining communities; then she groaned for a long time under the evils of monopolies, her industries were checked, her native energies curbed, and absentee proprietors grew rich at the expense of the * toilers of the sea.' Sometimes the elements have proved themselves too terrible and too exacting foes to the poor fishermen whose task has always been amongst these storm-swept waters. Quite recently (July 1892) a fire has destroyed a large portion of St. John's, their capital city and centre of government. Yet in spite of all drawbacks and disasters Newfoundland has pre- served her credit and maintained her loyalty. She is less encumbered by debt than most colonies, and is loyal to the backbone. Her able-bodied fishermen number fully 30,000, manning a fleet of 1800 vessels ; and if a Transatlantic wing of New fou ndland 6 1 the Imperial navy were ever formed, where could better material be found than amongst the rugged and loyal sailors of Newfoundland ? 1 1 For facts and figures see Appendix II. References : Harvey and Ration's Newfoundland, our Oldest Colony, 1883. Captain Norman's Colonial France, 1886. Proceedings of the Royal Colonial Institute, vols. xvi. and xxii. Greswell's History and Geography of Newfoundland and the Canadian Dominion. Clarendon Press. Oxford, 1891-2. Captain Kennedy's Sport, Travel, and Adventure, 1883. Tocque's Newfoundland as It Was. CHAPTER IV THE DOMINION OF CANADA FACING Newfoundland, and separated from it on the north- west by the narrow strait of Belle Isle, lies part of that vast Dominion of Canada which slopes on the north towards the Polar Basin and the regions of eternal snow, and on the west stretches in ever-rising plateaux to the magnificent Rocky Mountains. Thence it descends in broken terraces to the Pacific Ocean. From east to west from the Atlantic to the Pacific is a distance of 3000 miles, and the Dominion is nearly equal in area to Europe. For many generations its resources were unknown, its climate misrepresented, and its valleys unexplored. It was believed to be the home of wandering and marauding Indians, only fit to remain as a gigantic pre- serve for animals such as the beaver, silver fox, marten, and musk-rat, whose skins and furs are an article of luxury in Europe. When it was finally surrendered to England by France, Voltaire asked why need France lament over the loss of * a few acres of snow ' ? French public opinion should have been better informed, for the first explorers were Frenchmen. In 1524 Verrazano, sailing for the New World at the bidding of Francis i. in the Dauphine, made his landfall on the coast of New Jersey, and sailed northwards for many leagues ; next came Jacques Cartier, the hardy Breton fisherman, born at St. Malo, who made three voyages to Canada, viz. in 1534, 1535, and 1541. In his first voyage Cartier ran up the Gulf of Chaleur, and, ascending the Gaspe headland on the south of the St. Lawrence, The Dominion of Canada 63 erected a cross thirty feet high in token of possession, on which was fastened a shield with the words, ' Vive le Roy de France,' cut deep into the wood. In estimating the social and political conditions of Canada of the present day, too little notice is generally taken of the great part taken by Frenchmen in opening up the country in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. Supposing that, by some unexpected stroke of fortune, our South African colonies were captured by France, and the colonists there were transferred to the French allegiance. In name and political status they would be French subjects, and if France proved generous they would retain their language, law, and customs. Thus there would be a life within a life. Still, the colonisation of the country in the past would have been mainly British, and its great cekists, explorers, ' trekkers,' and politicians British in every sense. It would be impossible, therefore, to understand the conditions of South Africa under the circum- stances of this hypothetical transference without constant reference to the British explorers and rulers of the country who had lived and worked in past years. Such a hero and explorer as David Livingstone would have left his indelible mark upon the face of the country, and no transference of dominion could mar or blot out his celebrity. So we cannot understand Canada without constant reference to French history, French customs, French law, and French colonisers. The eye must rest upon certain great French pioneers and colonists who, during the time they worked in the country, left a certain impress upon it. They have bequeathed to the present generation of French-Canadians a natural pride which it would be idle to refuse them : most of the honours of exploration, and the remembrance of many gallant exploits in flood, field, and forest. The fact that these French-Canadians are now conjoined with the British in opening up a vast continent and giving political unity to a great dominion under the British flag does not cause the obliteration of honourable traditions. Both races, the French 64 British Colonisation as well as the British, have need of all the spurs and incite- ments that past history can give them, respectively, in order to carry out the great destiny lying before them. First and foremost amongst French explorers was Samuel Champlain (1567-1635), rightly called 'the Founder of New France. Born in 1567 at Brouage, a seaport to the south of La Rochelle, he was familiar, like our own Devon worthies, with the tales and adventures of the sea. The sailors of the western and north-western coasts of France regarded Canada and North America almost in the light of their peculiar birth- right, the St. Malo people going so far as to claim Canada and Newfoundland as their own by virtue of Cartier's discoveries, thus setting aside Cabot's claims. Samuel Champlain was the son of a naval captain, and, like Sir Walter Ralegh, whom he resembles in many respects, had seen active service as a soldier before he became a sailor, a pioneer, and a colonist, being employed in the army of Henry iv. under Marshal d'Aumont. His ambition was great and his energy unbounded. He threw himself into the work of North American colonisation with the most unflagging zeal. From first to last he undertook twelve voyages to Canada, the first voyage being in 1603 ; and he com- municated his enthusiasm to the French authorities at home. In 1 6 10 Champlain landed at Tadousac during his fourth voyage, his object being to proceed northwards past Three Rivers to the land around Hudson's Bay, of which he had heard rumours from the Indians. On this expedition he was badly wounded, and did not succeed in exploring the interior to any extent. He may be regarded as the first founder of Montreal. Here he laid out gardens, sowed grain, and took in at a glance the great advantages of the site. He was the first white man to descend the Lachine Rapids. In 1613 Champlain started on another expedition to reach Hudson's Bay by the Ottawa River. He here met a certain Nicholas de Vignau, who had stated that he had reached the Bay by this route, and that after travelling to the sources of the river he had come to a large lake, and thence by a portage The Dominion of Canada 65 had reached the sea. On the shores he stated he had seen a wreck of an English vessel and the heads of eighty of the crew who had been killed by the Indians. All this turned out to be a fabrication ; but Champlain managed to ascend the Ottawa as far as Allumette Island. The most important voyage undertaken by Champlain was that of 1615-16, when he reached the Huron country. From Allumette Island on the Ottawa he found his way to Lake Nipissing, and thence by French River to Lake Huron. Afterwards he saw Lake Ontario, and was the first white man to stand upon its shores. Thus the key to the great West was obtained at last, and the existence of those vast and mysterious inland seas, of which faint rumours only had filtered down through Indian sources, was proved beyond doubt. At the same time the Roman Catholic Church was planted in Canada. Many years before the Pilgrim Fathers had landed within Cape Cod, Le Caron, a Franciscan, and the friend and companion of Champlain, ' had passed into the hunting- grounds of the Wyandots, and, bound by vows to the life of a beggar, had, on foot or paddling a bark canoe, gone onward and still onward, taking alms of the savages, till he reached the rivers of Lake Huron.' 1 In 1627 a new era seemed to dawn upon New France when the great Cardinal Richelieu directed his attention thither. The Company of the Hundred Associates was formed with power over a vast country, reaching from Florida to Hudson Bay. It took the place of all previous companies. Three hundred artisans were to be sent at once to Canada, and they were to be provided with food and clothing for three years. Each settler was to have land to cultivate and seed to sow, and the Company undertook to establish 6000 inhabitants in Canada. The French King, Louis xni., reserved his supremacy in matters of faith and the right of homage as Sovereign of New France. A crown of gold weighing eight marks was to be given to each successor to the throne of France. In other 1 Bancroft, History of United States, vol. ii. p. 297, E 66 British Colonisation respects the Company was intended to be a vast monopoly, with even the right to create and grant titles of honour. More- over, all the emigrants were to be of the Roman Catholic faith. Champlain was appointed Governor of this new and vast dominion. Unfortunately for its founders, the projects of the One Hundred Associates were never carried out, and the Company received a heavy blow at the beginning. There was war between England and France, and Sir David Kirke, the grantee of Newfoundland, dealt a decisive blow at Richelieu's great projects for New France (1628-9). He captured eighteen vessels laden with emigrants at the entrance of the St. Lawrence, and, taking the cargoes out of ten of them, burned the empty hulks and took the rest to Newfoundland. Shortly afterwards Champlain himself had to surrender to Kirke. Had there been a decided policy at that time on the part of England, Canada might have become a British colony in its whole length and breadth, and the history of New England might then have read very differently. But by the Treaty of St. Germain-en-Laye (1632) Canada and Nova Scotia were ceded to France. It has been affirmed that Charles i. consented to restore Quebec in order to obtain 400,000 French crowns, which composed half of the marriage portion of Henrietta Maria. But the fortunes of New France had received a severe check, and afterwards Charlevoix thus mourned over it : 'The Fort of Quebec, surrounded by several wretched houses and a number of barracks; two or three huts on the island of Montreal; also, perhaps, at Tadousac and in some other directions on the River St. Lawrence for the convenience of fishing and trade ; a commencement of settlement at Three Rivers . . . behold ! in what consisted New France and all the fruit of the dis- coveries of Verrazano, of Jacques Cartier, of M. de Roberval, of Champlain, of the great expenditure of Marquis de la Roche and of M. de Monts, and of the industry of a great number of the French ! ' The Dominion of Canada 67 In the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries religion played an important part in French colonisation. Montreal was re-founded in 1642 in the true spirit of apostolic fervour, when upon the site of the old Hochelaga a solemn service of inauguration was celebrated, and in France itself a supplica- tion was offered up that the Queen of Angels would take the island of Montreal under her protection. The Jesuit Fathers, especially, distinguished themselves by their proselytising zeal, and the Jesuit ' Relations ' give us the earliest descriptions of Canada. No hardship was too great for the disciples of Loyola, no task of forest travel too hard to be undertaken. In addition to the hardships of exploration, the Fathers often suffered cruel death. Pere Brebeuf, after labouring in the cause for twenty years, was burned alive by the Indians ; and the Iroquois, noted for their fiendish cruelty, put to death a number of missionary heroes, who deserve to be remem- bered for their zeal and piety, viz. : Daniel, Gamier, Buteaux, La Riborerde, Goupil, Constantin, and Liegeouis. The American poet, Whittier, has commemorated the Jesuit Fathers in his poem, Mogg Megone : ' Well might the traveller start to see The tall dark forms that take their way From the birch canoe, on the river shore, And the forest paths to that chapel door : And marvel to see the naked knees And the dusky foreheads bending there ; While, in coarse white vesture, over these In blessing or in pra)'er Stretching abroad his thin pale hands Like a shrouded ghost, the Jesuit stands.' In the Huron mission and in the settlements of St. Joseph and St. Ignace in the vicinity of Nottawasaga Bay, along a tract of country explored by the great Champlain, accessible from the lakes on all sides, we can recognise a most remark- able story of French mission enterprise. In some respects this ancient centre of Jesuit Fathers resembles our own lake missions in Equatorial Africa ; and certainly Frenchmen were 68 British Colonisation beforehand with us in using the mission centre as an advanced guard of colonisation and exploration. For many years after the death of Champlain the Jesuits virtually controlled the policy of New France, and they had the support of such men as Cardinal Richelieu, who regarded colonisation as essentially an affair of Church and State. Foremost among the Jesuits was Pere Marquette, who was born at Laon, in the north-east of France, entered the order when only seventeen years of age, and came to Canada at the age of twenty-nine. He lived first at Three Rivers and then at Sault St. Marie, and in 1670 went to the mission station of St. Esprit, amongst the Hurons. When this out- post was attacked by the Sioux those marauding natives of the Western prairies Marquette retired with the Hurons to the Great Manitoulin Island. Here the spirit of travel and adventure prompted Marquette to solve one of the great geographical problems of the age. Rumours of the mighty Mississippi, the * father of waters,' had long come to the ears of the pioneers of the West. The first steps of the route south- wards had been made known already as far as some distance up the Fox River, and Father Allouez had been sent to found a mission at Lake Michigan at the head of Green Bay. It was reserved to Marquette to throw clearer light upon this valley of what might truly have then been called ' a Dark Continent.' Together with Joliet, he ascended the Fox River, and, reaching its head waters, struck across to the Wisconsin, which they reached after a portage of a mile and a half. Once on the Wisconsin their way was plain, and they glided down to the Mississippi. Continuing their voyage on the waters of the famous river, they experienced little difficulty in navigation ; but for a fortnight they saw not a human soul. The mouth of the Illinois was reached, a distance of 1400 miles from the Gulf of Mexico ; then the Missouri, the Ohio, and the Arkansas. Here they stopped, at a distance of 723 miles from the mouth of the great river. The exploit was a great one, and it was clear that the Mississippi flowed south into the Gulf of Mexico. The Dominion of Canada 69 Marquette did not long survive this triumph. On his return voyage he died on the shores of Lake Michigan as he was endeavouring to reach the Straits of Mackinaw. 1 Marquette was not only a great explorer but a great mission- ary, and he managed to enlist the sympathy and goodwill of the Indians, as the following incident proves : ' In 1676 some Ottawas for whom he had performed the offices of religion at the St. Esprit Mission opened the grave, obtained the bones, and, in Indian fashion, dried them. Placing them in a cover- ing of birch bark, they carried them to the Straits of Mackinaw, where they were reverently buried with the most solemn rites of his Church in the little chapel of the Mission of St. Ignace.' This honour paid to the remains of Marquette recalls the tender care shown by the African natives for the body of our own great explorer, David Livingstone. Another great Frenchman, whose name is conspicuous in Canada and North America during the seventeenth century, was de la Salle, the founder of Louisiana. He was born at Rouen in 1643, and is said to have belonged to a family of wealthy merchants. He was by nature and training a keen and enthusiastic explorer. Like many other men of that age, whilst an advocate for bond fide l plantations,' he frequently dreamed of the possibilities of some wonderful El Dorado; and his imagination was inflamed, even in the back- woods of Canada, by reading about the wonderful career of Columbus and the wanderings of de Soto. 2 Two of his companions in adventure were Henri de Tonti, an Italian officer, and Hennepin, the Franciscan, who has left behind an account of Canadian life and scenery. He was the first to describe the great Falls of Niagara. After exploring the lake country and opening up the way to the West, la Salle embarked upon his great enterprise, which was completing the work of Father Marquette and descending the Mississippi down to its mouth. Here, on April 9, 1682, a column was 1 Kingsford's History of Canada, vol. i. p. 404. 2 Bancroft's History of the United States, vol. ii. p. 334. 7O British Colonisation raised to Louis le Grand by the explorers, and a great and mighty province won for France. The founding of Louisiana was a very important event in the history of New France. Communication was opened up between the Canadian lakes and the Gulf of Mexico. Here it was decided to found a French colony. La Salle returned to France in 1683; and although Colbert was dead, his son' Seignelay listened favourably to his plans of colonisation. The details of the colony were arranged by 1684, and in July four vessels left La Rochelle with 280 persons, of whom 100 were soldiers. The French, in the days of Colbert, claimed the sovereignty of the Mexican Gulf a Frenchman named d'Estrees having been sent here to cruise about and to fight any Spanish vessel he met. This expedition, however, which, like Champlain's previous effort, might have been the begin- ning of French dominion in this part of the world, failed utterly. In the words of Bancroft, the mechanics were poor workmen, the soldiers spiritless vagabonds, the volunteers were restless, and the commanders, worst of all, untrustworthy. La Salle perished near the scene of his explorations, being killed by one of his subordinates. After the names of Champlain and la Salle should come that of Pierre Gautier de la Verandrye as a pathfinder and voyageur in North America (1731-1738). East of the Missis- sippi the task of North American exploration had been fairly exhausted ; the regions round Lake Superior, also, had become well known. But further north and north-west the voyageur's enterprise and daring could not be arrested, and the next regions to be opened up were those of the distant Western provinces, where bands of wild Sioux roamed. In 1686, at the very time when la Salle was lingering on the coast of the Gulf of Mexico, a voyageur of the name of de Noyon was wintering at the Lake of the Woods, at the very fountain of the mighty St. Lawrence. In 1720 Charlevoix, the celebrated Jesuit Father, was sent to Canada to discover whether there was an opening here for trade, and to throw The Dominion of Canada 7 1 light, if possible, upon the geography of the continent. His letters to the Duchesse de les Diguieres furnish a very useful historical record of the state of Canada at this time. Charle- voix was anxious to explore the west of the Missouri valley, and so reach the Western sea by this route. But he was prevented himself from carrying out his plans, and the task was left with Verandrye. This Frenchman addressed a letter to the Governor, and spoke by hearsay from the Indians of four great rivers flowing from the western height of land. These four rivers were after- wards, found to exist and to take their rise in the direction named. They were the Mackenzie, the Athabasca, the Saskatchewan, and the Missouri Rivers, and the height of land was the ' Rocky Mountains.' The information given by the Indians about the rivers of their country was generally found to be correct. The rivers were from time immemorial their natural highways, up and down which they travelled in their birch canoes. Verandrye in his communication to the French Governor spoke of English rivalry in the Far West, but there is no proof that they ever went so far. They had commenced to find their way to the Wabash, a tributary of the Ohio, reaching it from the eastern settlements ; but this was the extreme limit at the beginning of the* eighteenth century. On Hudson's Bay no traveller had ever gone far from the shores. 1 The field was clear for Verandrye, who with Messager, a Jesuit missionary, set his face to explore the great inland sea described as the Ouinipigan (Winnipeg). In 1732 he crossed the Lake of the Woods, named the Assiniboine, calling it the St. Charles after the Governor ; and the Souris, to which he gave the name of the St. Pierre. Verandrye and his sons carried on their work of exploration for many years, and it is claimed for them that in 1 742-3 they first sighted the Rocky Mountains, sixty years before the American explorers Clarke and Lewis. 1 Kingsford's History of Canada , vol. iii. p. 371. 72 British Colonisation Such were some of the typical French colonists and ex- plorers in Canada previous to the expulsion of the French altogether as a political power from the country. There was a great deal of romance and adventure about the missionary, the pathfinder, the hunter, and the explorer ; and the cause of geographical research was greatly advanced by their efforts. But there was not much substantial progress in the work of colonisation and settlement. The New England colonists and the settlers of New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Newfoundland, were waging a never-ending war with the French colonists, and held the approaches to the St. Lawrence and the east coast. There was a lack also of perseverance on the part of the French colonists. From what Champlain himself wrote, it would appear that agriculture was neglected by the new settlers. He considers the use of the plough so important that he gives us the date of its first use, viz. April 27, 1628 ; and he bitterly bewails the conduct of the Association, which during twenty-two years had only cleared one arpent and a half of land. Kings- ford, the Canadian historian, sums up French colonisation thus : ' In the seventeenth century there was not one settlement west of Montreal. Montreal was only commenced in 1640. In 1668 a mission was sent to the Bay of Quinte. Kingston and Niagara were never anything but trading and military posts. There was a mission at Sault St. Marie ; one at La Pointe, Lake Superior, the modern Bayfield ; Detroit (1764) was a fort which was attacked by the Indian chief Pontiac. The most ancient claim by the Michigan archaeologist goes to no earlier date than 1701. The local settlements of De la Salle and the Illinois were composed of a few soldiers and Indians. The country was thus passed over by the mission father, the trader, the coureur des bois. Where there was water to float a canoe, with a portage to a descending stream, there the explorer of New France was to be found rarely to achieve little more than its discovery.' 1 1 History of Canada^ vol. i. p. 115. The Dominion of Canada 73 Thus New France fell because in her struggle with New England she had no real colonial strength to rest upon. Sternly the Puritan settlers of New England were laying their grip upon the country ; and the sailors and fishermen of Nova Scotia were always ready to fight the French, whether in the Bay of Fundy, or off Cape Breton, or along the coasts of Newfoundland, or up the St. Lawrence valley. At the begin- ning of the eighteenth century the main object of France was to keep the English colonists behind the Alleghanies. Failing this, they might have cut them off on the west by making Louisiana a reality, and filling it with Protestant emigrants. The question of boundaries and outposts could never be settled except by an appeal to the god of battles. In addition to the explorers she sent forth, France has had many brave and capable commanders to fight her cause in New France. Frontenac, at one time Governor of Canada, was an able and enterprising officer. At the close of the seven- teenth century the power of France was very great in Canada, the whole country, from Maine to beyond Labrador and Hudson's Bay, besides the valleys of the St. Lawrence and the Mississippi, falling under her sovereignty. The exploits of d'Iberville both in Hudson's Bay (1687) and on the Maine frontier were a bright and redeeming page in her annals. But she had no greater or more chivalrous general than Mont- calm. His defence of New France was a long and gallant struggle against circumstances. Montcalm had seen service in campaigns in Italy and Germany, and in May 1756 he landed in Canada with 1000 regulars and 400 recruits. One of his officers was M. de Bourgainville, of whom we hear much after- wards as an explorer in distant Southern waters. With this com- paratively insignificant force Montcalm achieved a remarkable number of successes, taking the forts around Lake Champlain ; but when Louisburg on Cape Breton, the Dunkirk of Canada, fell and the passage of the St. Lawrence was blocked, Mont- calm knew that the fate of New France was sealed. The capture of Quebec and the gallantry of Wolfe and Montcalm 74 British Colonisation are twice-told tales. ' Wolfe, twice wounded, died, having been informed by his attendants of his victory ; and Montcalm, shot near the city, was led in supported on his black charger led in to die ! Rarely have two nobler spirits met in battle array than Montcalm and Wolfe.' From the date of the British occupation, 1763, Canada began quickly to fill up. It is estimated that not more than 8000 emigrants had ever come from France to Canada, chiefly in the time of Colbert. These had increased to 65,ooo. 1 Many of these Frenchmen were men of high rank, and Louis xiv. boasted that ' Canada contained more of his old nobility than the rest of the colonies put together.' The feudal system was transplanted to the banks of the St. Lawrence ; and the great landowners or seigniors, who were grantees of long strips of territory, required service and homage from the censitaire or ordinary settler, who came to them 'without sword or spurs, with bare head and one knee on the ground.' The censitaire was compelled to grind his flour at the seignior's mill, bake his bread in the seignior's oven, give one fish in every eleven caught, and work for his lord one or more days in every year. Yet, with all these advantages, the seigniors never became rich and prosperous colonists. No doubt the feeling of caste demoralised them and degraded labour in their eyes. But that man must live by the sweat of his brow and by tilling and developing the ground is the accepted condition of colonial life. Forests have to be cleared, swamps drained, and fields ploughed. Apparently the French seigniors disliked these occupations, and preferred hunting and exploring as occupations better suited to their taste, and so became path- finders and coureurs des bois. Such men, however, could not build up a State or even form a society. Between 1780 and 1800 a new immigration set in which pro- duced a lasting influence upon the fortunes of Canada ; and this was the immigration of the United Empire Loyalists. After the close of the American War there were thousands of 1 A Short History of the Canadian People, by James Bryce, p. 221. The Dominion of Canada , 75 British settlers who, rather than live under the flag of the United States, resolved to leave their homes and properties at vast sacrifices and go north to Canada. These men were some of the best of the American settlers, being of stern stuff and of un- doubted patriotism. By a proclamation of George HI., 1763, handsome provision was made for these refugees. To every person of field-officer's rank 5000 acres were promised; to a captain, 3000 ; to subalterns, 2000 acres ; to each non-com- missioned officer, 200 acres; and to every private, 50 acres. The first instalment of refugees arrived off the mouth of the St. John's River in May 1783, in what is now New Bruns- wick ; and before the end of the summer 5000 had found homes along the river, laying the prosperity of Parrtown or Frederic- ton. In the same year large settlements were made in Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island. The number of the 1783 refugees is reckoned at 13,000. This number was raised by subsequent emigration to 30,000. The sum paid from the British Exchequer in aid of these Loyalist bands amounted to $15,000,000 or ^3,000,000, and rations had to be issued in some cases for three years to keep them alive. The Loyalists laid the foundation of Upper Canada. Colonel Simcoe, the first Lieutenant-Governor of Upper Canada (1792), adopted a bold and active colonisation policy in this part of the world. His policy was to dismiss every soldier quartered in Canada and give him 100 acres of land as soon as he could find a substitute. He held out tempting offers to young Americans, and endeavoured to draw them into the English service. In its character the province of Upper Canada resembled a vast military settlement on the confines of the North- West, with endless scope before it. The huge districts of the North- West were known as the hunting preserve of the Hudson's Bay Company, founded in 1670. Prince Rupert had obtained from Charles n. a charter which made him and the Hudson's Bay Company nominal monopolists of an extent of country stretching from Lake Superior to the Rocky Mountains, from Manitoba to Athabasca. 76 British Colonisation Very often this territory was described as Prince Rupert's Land, and Cape Henrietta Maria in Hudson's Bay points to the Royal connection. Curiously enough, the western littoral of Hudson's Bay has the nomenclature in Pinkerton's map of ' North Wales,' and also of 'New South Wales.' Hidden from the ken of Europe, these solitudes were long believed to be little better than snowy wastes. An epoch, however, occurred in the history of the great North- West when Thomas Douglas, Earl of Selkirk, acquired 1 16,000 square miles of land for a colonisation experiment, and led a colony of Highlanders thither (1811-1816). The earl was a most distinguished cekist or leader of colonists, and had already (1803) settled 800 Highlanders in Prince Edward Island. His schemes won the warm sympathy of Sir Walter Scott ; and surely no colonisation experiment has ever proved more successful than the Selkirk settlement, which laid the foundation of the province of Manitoba. There is no more congenial place for Orkney and Shetland men in the world than North- West Canada. In the time of Lord Selkirk there was a great deal of acute distress in Scotland. The battle of Waterloo not only marked a great epoch in the history of Europe but also an important crisis in the history of British colonisation. The strain of the Napoleonic wars upon England and her resources had been terrible. England like a wearied gladiator had sunk back exhausted after her terrible duel. Poverty and crime were rife throughout the length and breadth of the land. A spirited emigration policy to the British colonies seemed one of the best and wisest remedies for general distress ; and Lord Bathurst, the Secretary of State at the time, gave settlers a choice of land in either Upper Canada or Quebec. The best known of the settlements that ensued was that formed in Upper Canada in 1816, in the townships of Bathurst, Drummond, Beckwith, and Goulburn, known as the Perth settlement. The M'Nab settlement, up the Ottawa, was an attempt to The Dominion of Canada 77 transfer the clan system to Canada, and the chieftain wore his * bonnet and feather, tartan and sporran, and besides his bright scarlet vest with its silver buttons.' He was attended also by his piper, and the highlands of Canada re-echoed to the music of the bagpipes. In 1826 Bytown (Ottawa) was formed, and became from its position a great centre of the lumber industry; and in 1823 the British Government emigrated large numbers of Irishmen to the Peterborough district. The Huron country was surveyed into twenty townships, and for many consecu- tive years there was a ceaseless flow of emigrants to Canada. Men of all ranks flocked to the country and helped to develop its resources. Professor Bryce records 'that a unique "logging-bee" is described as taking place in Upper Canada in which one, afterwards Chief Justice of Upper Canada, another in time a county judge, and a young man now an episcopal rector, did their share with axe or handspike, while the actual rector of the settlement drove the oxen.' Such a sight would have read a moral to the great Champlain, ' the father of New France,' who complained of the lethargy of his own countrymen in those early days of colonisation, and would have indicated to him the true and real differences between British and French colonisa- tion. It has been by hard work, and by hard work alone, that the British colonial empire has been built up. The climax of the emigration movement following the Napoleonic wars seems to have been reached in 1831, when the number of Canadian immigrants reached the total of 34,000. Thus, then, the fabric of Canadian prosperity was built up by successive immigrations. New blood was infused into the old veins, and the life of the colony flourished. What was stagnant in the old colonial life was quickened and revivified by new ideas on trade and policy imported from Europe. The French censitaires felt the genial influences of greater indi- vidual freedom and liberty, and gained activity from the frequent admixture of Scotch, English, Irish, and German elements. Freehold and franchise came in due time, and 78 British Colonisation within the borders of the vast domain there was peace and plenty. The war of 1812, waged by the United States against Canada and England, was a regrettable and untimely interrup- tion, but it could not alter materially the flow of Canadian prosperity. The foremost thinkers of the Republic were ashamed to be in a bloody partnership with the imperialism of Napoleon. As far as the Canadian people were concerned, the call to arms strengthened their 'native resolution,' and gave French, British, Germans, and Scandinavians a common cause. The habitant of Lower Canada, the fisherman of Nova Scotia, the lumberer of the Ottawa valley, and the trapper of the Far West felt their patriotism glow when the news came that the Yankee meant to conquer their country. Nor did their trade suffer ultimately by the unequal conflict, the American mercantile marine being driven off Canadian waters by the superior power of the British fleet. Much indeed has been made from time to time of the sentimental alliance between France and the United States ; and the colossal statue of Liberty, the gift of France, and, from its site overlooking the city of New York, visible afar off like that of Athena Promachus of the Acropolis, the tutelary deity of ancient Athens, seen from distant Sunium is sup- posed to be symbolical of the everlasting entente cordiale. Good Americans also are supposed to go to Paris when they die, preferring Lutetia to Fair Parthenope or Rome or London. O. W. Holmes has commemorated the attachment between the two peoples, begun in the War of Independence : ' Sister in trial ! who shall count Thy generous friendship's claim, Whose blood ran mingling in the fount That gave our land its name, Till Yorktown saw in blended line Our conquering arms advance, And victory's double garlands twine Our banners ? Vive la France ! ' The Dominion of Canada 79 It is doubtful whether this sentiment can ever stand a very great strain. When it has come to practical questions of territory and sovereignty in the New World, France has been always told firmly that she must go in order that the young Republic may carry out her Monroe doctrines. W 7 hat the United States have said to France they have said also to Spain. The Count de Aranda, who as the representative of the Cabinet of Madrid assisted in negotiating the Treaty of Paris in 1783, which established the independence of the United States, uttered the following remarkable prophecy regarding the future of the young Republic : ' It is a pygmy, but before long it will be a giant, the formidable Colossus in the New World It will forget the immense service which France and Spain have rendered to it for it is to them that it owes its independence and will only occupy itself with its own great- ness. The liberty of conscience it has proclaimed, the cer- tainty which industrious men will have of procuring a livelihood in that great country, and the political institution which it has established, will attract to the Confederation, from all parts of the world, an intelligent and laborious population, and we shall have the mortification of seeing it exercise an exclusive and tyrannical sway over the New World. . . . They will begin by taking Florida, which will make them masters of the Gulf of Mexico; and they will afterwards attack the beautiful empire of New Spain.' l On the subject also of the disappearance of France from the New World a disappearance the United States have done little indeed to hinder Chateaubriand writes : ' We possessed here vast territories which might have offered a home to the excess of our population, an important market to our commerce, a nursery to our navy. Now we are forced to confine to our prisons culprits condemned by the tribunals, for want of a spot of ground whereon to place these wretched creatures. We are excluded from the New World when the human race is recommencing. The English and Spanish 1 Chevalier's Le Mexique, Ancien et Moderne, 8o British Colonisation languages serve to express the thoughts of many millions of men in Africa, in Asia, in the South Sea islands, and the continent of the two Americas ; and we, disinherited of the conquests of our courage and our genius, hear the language of Racine, of Colbert, and of Louis xrv. spoken merely in a few hamlets of Louisiana and Canada under a foreign sway. There it remains, as it were, for an evidence of the reverses of our fortune and the error of our policy. Thus, then, has France disappeared from North America like those Indian tribes with which she sympathised, and some of the wrecks of which I myself have seen.' 1 During this century the history of Canada has been princi- pally the history of political consolidation. Lord Durham's Report in 1837 gives the student of its annals a key to the inner and social life of Upper and Lower Canada. The rebellion of 1837 was a political upheaving the depth and strength of which seem to have been imperfectly understood at the time. Grievances existed and inequalities prevailed, of which time has been the great rectifier. There were angry discussions and heated recriminations on both sides. Papineau, the leader of the rebellion, was regarded by some in the light of a Hampden ; but others, and these Canadians, have called him * impassioned, prejudiced, and imprudent.' 2 Lord Durham was the pacificator of Canada, and his Report marks the beginning of a new epoch in the history of the British colonies. Lord Norton in his Colonial Policy and History has briefly stated the whole case. Ke writes : ' Lord Durham described the general state of things as that of a chronic collision between the executive and representative bodies in all the North American colonies. " In each and every province the representatives were in hostility to the policy of the Government, and the administration of public affairs was permanently in the hands of a Ministry not in harmony with the popular branch of the Legislature." English taxes were lavished as the means of quieting and demoralising 1 Travels in America, vol. ii. 2 History of Canada^ by Macmullen. The Dominion of Canada 8 1 the spirit of the colonists. It was argued that the cessation of such vexation would be the cessation of all colonial connec- tion. Lord Durham alone affirmed the opposite and true opinion, guided as he was by the enlightened views of Edward Gibbon Wakefield and Charles Buller, that cessation from such interference would be the starting-point from which a natural, free, and vigorous attachment would spring up between the colony and the Mother-country.' The whole of this question belongs more especially to the history of the Canadian con- stitution, and is a study in itself to which all readers of colonial history can turn with advantage. Since the accession of Queen Victoria there has been a gradual settling-down of conflicting elements in Canada. The Confederation of 1867, carried out by Lord Carnarvon, has seemed to complete politi- cally the ' solidarity ' of the Dominion. The Canadian Pacific Railway, one of the most daring and skilful of all mechanical enterprises, has linked the scattered provinces together and brought east and west together in one organic whole. The railway is also an imperial trade-route of the utmost value, with an outlook towards China and Japan on the east. In view of a quickly expanding Pacific trade, a new line of steamships from British Columbia to the British possessions in the Pacific has been inaugurated, and there appears to be no limit to their utility. It is just possible that dangers from within may assail the Dominion of Canada. For a long time past a few politicians, of whom Professor Goldwin Smith is the best known, have been openly advocating annexation to the United States, and a political amalgamation with ' the Triumphant Democracy ' of the south. Canada would then cease to be part of the British Empire, and would be absorbed as a northern addition into the body of the United States. Putting aside sentiment, it is not clear that Canada would be the gainer commercially speaking. Her manufactures might be handicapped, her industries fettered, and her territories overrun by a mixed mob of emigrants. Her influence, if we take population as the F 82 British Colonisation basis, would be very small, and she would be dragged ignominiously at the tail of a Republic some of whose troubles are in the near future. It is by no means certain that the Roman Catholic 'population of Lower Canada would, in the event of their being an integral portion of the United States, enjoy the same rights and privileges as they do at present. There is no sign of any real and widespread desire on the part of Canada to change her destiny. On the contrary, Canadians are passionately loyal, and are by no means pre- pared to follow the lead of political enthusiasts and vision- aries. Commercially, Canada may draw closer to England ; and how she may do this is the problem of the hour. Some have advocated reciprocity treaties between Canada and the Mother-country on the principle of give-and-take. It has been argued that a slight duty on foreign corn and meat would send up colonial industries, and especially Canadian agriculture, by leaps and bounds. But England is hardly ready to make any difference between foreign and colonial imports. The question involves a the outset a reconsideration of her whole fiscal policy. But might it not be possible, so others argue, for Canada to adopt Free Trade ? This is the question on the other side. Quite recently, and during the numerous discussions on Irish Home Rule, some politicians have quoted the example of Canada as applicable to Ireland. If Canadians, they argue, manage their own affairs under the various Provincial Govern- ments, and in obedience to the Central Chamber at Ottawa, why should not Irishmen manage their own affairs, and yet remain loyal to the Central Chamber at Westminster, con- tinuing true to the British connection ? Surely there can be no real analogy here. In the first place, the machinery of government in Canada is different from any machinery of government yet devised, or even proposed, for Ireland. Canada has achieved a Federal form of government, but England has not arrived at this stage yet. Many Irishmen clamour for the The Dominion of Canada 83 rights and position of an independent nation, and ask to be dissociated from British rule altogether. It is the boast of Canadians that they intend to be loyal .to the British flag. Even supposing Canada wished to 'cut the painter' and go adrift, the danger to England would be infinitesimal compared to that which would follow upon the entire separation of Ireland, an island lying close off our shores. England can afford to give Canadians the control of their own trade and police ; can she afford to give Irishmen the same control ? The matter hardly admits of argument ; and, whatever the form of any scheme of Irish Home Rule in the future, it can hardly be modelled according to the Canadian precedent. As Newfoundland has had a long-standing fisheries diffi- culty with France, so Canada has had a disagreement with the United States. By the treaty of 1783, which recognised the independence of the United States, the American fisher- men were given the ' liberty ' of fishing inshore through- out British America. This ' liberty ' was of course essentially different from a fishing right. By the law of nations, every State owns the sea for three miles from the shore. This liberty of fishing inside the creeks and bays of the Cana- dian maritime provinces was terminated by the very fact of the war of 1812-1814, and in October 1813 Nova Scotia memorialised the British Government 'to guard against the hateful articles of the treaty of 1783.' War terminates such agreements, and the British navy swept the whole American seaboard. By the treaty of October 1818, the only fishery treaty now in force, United States fishermen had liberty to take fish of every kind along certain named portions of the North Ameri- can coasts, without prejudice to Hudson's Bay rights ; and they also had liberty to dry and cure fish on unsettled bays, harbours, and creeks of Newfoundland and Labrador ; but as soon as such places were settled they were to come to some agreement with the inhabitants or proprietors. At the same 84 British Colonisation time they renounced any liberty to fish inside the three-mile limit previously enjoyed, in portions of the coast not specially mentioned. On the other hand, they were allowed to enter territorial waters for the sake of shelter, or repairing their vessels, or obtaining wood or water but for no other purpose whatever. It is to the strict interpretation of the 1818 con- vention that Canadians wish to adhere. The Reciprocity Treaty of June 1854 introduced a new phase into the fisheries difficulty. The United States fisher- men were given liberty to ' take fish of every kind, except shell fish, on the sea coasts and shores and in the bays, harbours, and creeks of Canada, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, and of the several islands thereunto adjacent, without being restricted to any distance from the shore.' In return for this privilege the Canadians had, amongst other concessions, free trade in fish with the Republic. After the abrogation of the Reciprocity Treaty in 1866, Canada and the United States reverted to their former position which was laid down by the treaty of 1818. The worst of a fisheries difficulty is that the Imperial Government has to occupy a somewhat invidious position with reference to her colonies. By the law of nations Newfound- landers, for instance, claim all rights implied in the three-mile limit. The Imperial Government supersedes the Provincial Governments in what the colony deem to be a matter of provincial concern. Such a dilemma tests the first principles of our government to the utmost. 1 1 For facts and figures see Appendix XII. The Dominion of Canada 85 References : Parkman's Historical Works. The History of Canada, by William Kingsford, vols. i.-iii. Triibner and Co., 1886. Bryce's Short History of the Canadian People ', 1891. Bryce's Manitoba, its Growth and Present Condition, 1882. Butler's Great Lone Land, 1872. Butler's The Wild North Land, 1873. Federal Government in Canada, by J. G. Bourinot, C.M.G., 1889. Greswell's History of Newfoundland and the Canadian Dominion, 1890. Clarendon Press, Oxford. Under the auspices of the Royal Colonial Institute. Greswell's Geography of Newfoundland and the Canadian Dominion. Under the auspices of the Royal Colonial Institute. Parliamentary Procedure in Canada, byj. G. Bourinot, C.M.G., 1892. The Proceedings of the Royal Colonial Institute. See also Voyages of Samuel Hearne, Alexander Mackenzie, George Vancouver, John Franklin, etc. etc. CHAPTER V THE WEST AFRICAN SETTLEMENTS CLOSELY connected with the West Indies in past times were the numerous ports and factories of the West African coast along the Bight of Benin. But the link that bound them together was that of sordid and unhallowed gain, the point in common an unholy traffic. The very thoroughfare of ocean was known as ' a middle passage ' recalling one of the darkest pages in our annals of colonisation. The manner and fashion of the West African and West Indian trade in former days was simple enough, and at one time highly remunerative. A ship would sail from the port of Bristol, for instance, with a suit- able cargo of British goods to the Oil Rivers or Sierra Leone, and by traffic with slave-dealers convert this cargo into a ship-load of slaves, who very often were huddled together like bales of merchandise, without any regard for health and comfort. Ultimately, what was left of the stifled, half-starved speci- mens of black humanity was deposited at some such slave- mart as Port Royal in Jamaica, or elsewhere. The slaves would naturally be exchanged at the West Indian port for a certain quantity of sugar, rum, molasses, indigo, coffee, tobacco, or some other produce of negro labour equivalent in value ; and so the ship would find its way back to an English port after an unholy, but profitable, round. It is clear that in this traffic, which began and terminated in the home port, the West Indians were either the consignees or debtors of the West African merchant. Under these circumstances the West Indies were regarded as factories rather than as colonies in The West African Settlements 87 the strict sense of the word. The shipowners of Great Britain rapidly made their fortunes, and the great game of monopoly went merrily on until emancipation came and Englishmen repented in sackcloth and ashes. ' Quashie,' the quondam miserable victim of our greed, has lived to revenge himself, and lives a merry and irresponsible life in the lovely islands of the West Indies ; nor does he wish to return to the shores of West Africa. The honours of West African exploration rest first of all with the Portuguese. By a bull of Pope Eugene iv. an exclusive grant was made in 1438 to the crown of Portugal of all the countries that might be discovered between Cape Non, the ultima Thule of early navigators, and the continent of India. When two English captains, in 1481, were reported to be equipping a trading expedition to Guinea, ambassadors were sent from the court of Portugal to remonstrate with Edward iv., and the enterprise was nipped in the bud. For more than a hundred years Portuguese supremacy was unques- tioned along the West African coasts, and it is strange that the world should have gained so little by their occupation. Portu- guese colonisation has always resembled the ' upas ' or poison- ous tree of Java, that blights everything beneath its shadow. English sailors, however, were not long to be debarred from any part of the world where their efforts were likely to meet with success. As they regarded not the Spanish mono- poly of the West Indies and the New World, so they set at naught the Portuguese monopoly of the west coast of Africa and the East. The Reformation was letting loose forces which could not be controlled. In 1554 three vessels under Captain John Lok sailed for Guinea and brought back gold, guinea-pepper, and elephants' tusks. Lok also brought back some negro slaves. In 1588 Queen Elizabeth inaugurated an epoch in West African commerce by granting a patent to a company of merchants in Exeter to carry on a trade with Senegal and Gambia. In 1618 King James gave his royal sanction to a company, which was, however, soon dissolved. 88 British Colonisation Thus the first steps were taken, and many sailors brought back tales of strange races, Moorish kingdoms, sea-horses, elephants, crocodiles, baboons, and, above all, of gold. The wonderful travels and adventures of Andrew Battel, who sailed from the Thames in 1589, and after incredible hardships, hairbreadth escapes, captivities, and wanderings in Portuguese Africa lived to return to England, settle in Essex, and tell his story as thrilling, doubtless, as that of Othello into the ear of the great Purchas, excited universal attention. In 1662 a charter was granted to the Duke of York secur- ing to him the commerce of the whole West African littoral, extending from Cape Blanco in 20 N. lat. to the Cape of Good Hope a truly royal concession, made, in all probability, with few ideas of the interests, as well as the localities, in- volved. This concession was returned into the King's hand by the Duke, and this led to the creation, in 1672, of the Royal African Company, with a capital of ,111,000. They built forts at Dix Cove, Seconda, Commendah, Anamaboe, Accra, and strengthened Cape Coast Castle. This company was succeeded by the African Company of Merchants in 1750, with liberty to form settlements between 20 N. and 20 S., and this company lasted until 1821. The eighteenth century, even more than the preceding one, was the dark age of West African history. No more unprin- cipled ruffians ever infested the shores of any country than the captains of the slave-ships. After the slavers and pirates came the ' palm-oil ruffians,' as they were called, consisting of the masters and crews of the sailing-vessels that anchored in one of the oil rivers and waited for their cargoes. It was a terrible coast, where, to use Mr. H. H. Johnston's words, ' crime raged unchecked, and fever and disease, the sure and sudden waiters upon crime, exacted their due.' There was no effort made, missionary or otherwise, to ameliorate even the fringe of the continent, the business of Europeans being con- fined entirely to a base, unholy, and precarious littoral and riverine trade. The West African Settlements 89 A new and more wholesome view of West Africa was inaugurated when Englishmen, with the dauntless energy of their race, took up the task of West African exploration. This task is second only in importance and interest to that of Central African exploration. In the beginning, the object was to discover the city of Timbuctoo, where, it was thought, all the wealth of Africa was concentrated ; and as far back as 1618 a company was formed with the express object of ascending the Gambia and making their way inland. Nothing, however, came of this venture, as the Portuguese barred the way, seizing the ship and massacring the crew. It was due to the remarkable African Association, formed in 1788, and guided chiefly by that enthusiastic traveller and savant, Sir Joseph Banks, that the problem of West African exploration, and especially the task of determining the features of the Niger valley, was finally taken in hand. The roll of explorers employed by this Association from time to time is long and illustrious. It may be well to state here very briefly what were the main features of the problems presented to the geographers of North and North Central Africa at the beginning of this century, and indeed for some time after. If reference is made to any old maps of the preceding century, such as those illustrating the work of Abbe PreVost, a well-known compiler of voyages, in 1780, it will be seen that the coast-line of the Gulf of Guinea, or St. Thomas, as it was called, was plentifully dotted with names of stations, trading-ports, and rivers. But the interior was a great blank. Even such an atlas as that of Pinkerton's, dated 1817, does not enlighten the student much further, as it does not show the course of the Niger further than a few degrees to the east of the meridian of Greenwich. The problem of the Niger watershed remained such, indeed, as it had been handed down by the ancients. Geographers of the nineteenth century were still at the mercy of the speculations of Ptolemy and Pliny. There were certain preconceived ideas with regard to this river which it cost a great deal to eradicate. It was taken go British Colonisation almost for certain that it flowed due east along immense regions until it merged its waters with those of the Nile ; or, it was argued, it might disappear altogether in Mid Africa, evaporated by the fiery heat of the sun. Later on, it was maintained that it turned its course south, and was identical with the Zaire or Congo. There were also rumours of lakes in the interior, about the existence of which the natives of Africa itself seemed to be agreed. What were these lakes ? Where was the outlet ? Were they part of the Niger and Nile river- system ? Or, it was thought, there might be a great inland sea somewhere in the Sudan. There appeared to be three routes from which to assail these geographical difficulties. First, there was the waterway of the Gambia, along which an explorer could advance, cross the intervening country to the Joliba or Niger, and, when once launched upon these waters, it might be possible to descend them until the sea was reached or the supposed junction with the Nile was found. Secondly, there was the caravan-route from Cairo and the East. It seemed probable that somewhere along this route, either to the north or south, the great river might itself be discovered flowing majestically eastwards. Indeed, in their quick imaginations, cartographers had already laid down its course on maps. Thirdly, there was the route from Tripoli, along which it might chance that the Joliba or Niger might be intersected, especially as it seemed, from glimpses already gained, to flow to the north and east. The ' ambages Nigri ' had as great a fascination as the ' ambages Nili.' Terrible indeed was the number of victims the solution of the great Niger problem was destined to exact. No Minotaur of ancient days was more hungry of human life. It was by a strange irony indeed that the ancients placed somewhere in North-West Africa or Libya the Gardens of the Hesperides and pleasant resorts, whereas in reality travellers found there nothing but lethal waters, and too often a Valley of the Shadow of Death. One of the first to lay down his life for the cause of West The West African Settlements 91 African exploration was John Ledyard, an American, who had already travelled in Irkutsk and Siberia. The object placed before him by the African Association was to explore the Sennaar westward 'in the latitude and supposed direction of the Niger.' For this purpose he proceeded to Egypt and ascended the Nile to Cairo, where he prepared to travel with a caravan to Sennaar. Here, however, he was struck down by sickness and died (1788). What need to recall the name and exploits of the celebrated Mungo Park, whose name is a 'household word,' another intrepid emissary of the African Association, who, going by way of the Gambia, returned home victorious after his first essay to view the waters of the great river (1795), and then perished in a second and more ambi- tious attempt. Then came the German enthusiast Hornemann, who endeavoured to reach the interior from the East, using the great caravan-route across, the desert (1798). Next came Lewis Burckhardt, a Swiss by birth, who sought to purloin the secrets of African geography by stealth, turning Mohammedan and going in disguise along the Cairo trade-route, the fore- runner of such men as Bertolucci, Dr. Wallin, and our own illustrious Sir Richard Burton. But he, too, fell by the way (1817), and in his last letter wrote: 'I was starting in two months' time with the caravan returning from Mecca and going to Fezzan thence to Timbuctoo ; but it is otherwise disposed.' After the battle of Waterloo the British Government took up the task of North African exploration, and from this date there was a kind of official sanction given to a series of most important enterprises, which were more successful than the efforts of the African Association, and certainly procured for England the chief honours of exploration, and in a certain sense led up to her title-deeds to that vast area of West African territory known as the ' Niger Protectorate.' The motives that led to the first important expedition (1816) setting out under these auspices were given in detail by Mr. Barrow, Secretary of the Admiralty, who was already 92 British Colonisation celebrated for his Travels in China and his well-known Report on the Cape of Good Hope, after its first occupation by the British in 1^95- The immediate and primary object of the expedition was to determine, by tracing the Zaire or Congo upwards from its mouth, whether the idea, strongly rooted in Mungo Park's mind, that the Niger and Congo were one and the same river was accurate or not. It was suggested also by Sir Joseph Banks, still the ardent promoter of African enterprise, and now in his seventy-third year, that a steam-engine might be used to propel the vessel against the rapid current of the Congo. In past times the mouth of the Congo had been experienced to be almost impossible to navigate. Saving and excepting the expeditions of Ross and Parry to the North Pole, there was no enterprise during the first quarter of this century that so deeply riveted public and official atten- tion as the great Niger problem. The British public were inclined to agree with Mungo Park, who had written in his memoir to Lord Camden that ' the Niger problem was in a commercial point of view second only to the circumnavigation of the Cape of Good Hope, and in a geographical sense the greatest that remains to be made in the world.' To assail this problem Captain Tuckey, a naval officer, was first sent out, who had already served his apprenticeship by exploring the coasts of Australia (1802) and making a survey of Port Phillip, and with him went several distinguished men Professor Smith, a botanist ; Mr. Lockhart, a Kew official ; Mr. Cranch, a biologist ; and Mr. Tudor, a comparative anatomist. The ship that took them out was the Dorothea transport, which was employed afterwards on the Polar expedi- tion. It is sad to think, however, that fever and death thinned and decimated the ranks of this expedition also, and the pro- blem of the Niger and Congo left as obscure as it was before. Next came James and Bowdich, who in 1817-18 were lured on to Ashantee by rumours of a wonderful El Dorado at Coomassie, whence also the problem of the Niger, it was The West African Settlements 93 thought, could be best unfolded. Then in 1822-23 Oudney, a naval surgeon, Clapperton, a naval lieutenant, and Major Denham, an old Peninsular campaigner, set out from Tripoli, and, marching southwards, reached Lake Tsaad. The Bashaw of Tripoli had signified to Lord Bathurst, always ready to take up projects of exploration, his readiness to help and escort an expedition as far as Bornou. The result of this expedition was to throw much light upon the hydrography of the interior ; still the Niger remained a puzzle. Clapperton, said to be a perfect Bayard of African travel, undertook a second expedition from the Bight of Benin to Soccatoo (1825), accompanied by Pearce, Morrison, and Richard Lander; but only Lander lived to return. The addi- tions made by Clapperton to the geography of these regions were immense. He had measured every degree of latitude from the Mediterranean to the Bight of Benin, and of longi- tude from Lake Tsaad to Sokoto ; and, although he had not discovered the termination of the Niger, he had shown that it was utterly impossible that it could be the Niger of Ptolemy or of Pliny, or the great river of Herodotus. In 1824 M. Caillie, the celebrated French traveller, per- formed the great feat of reaching Timbuctoo. An American sailor, Robert Adams, who sailed from New York in 1810, and after being shipwrecked on the Senegal coast had lived as a captive for more than three years in North-West Africa, had given an account of the city of Timbuctoo, which was deemed worthy of credence. His deposition was read before Lord Bathurst and Sir Joseph Banks, and the Quarterly Review of May 1816 contains a notice of the whole adventure. But it is only fair to take the Frenchman's account as the first authoritative and descriptive account of this wonderful city, although Alexander Gordon Laing had entered it the year before (August 18), but did not live to return. M. Caillie took a route eastwards from the French colony of Senegal, advancing by way of Kakondy, Kankan, Timbo, and thence northwards to Jenne. Embarking there on the Joliba, he 94 British Colonisation noted its course, its islands, and the extensive Lake of Debo, during a month's voyage to Timbuctoo. The list of travellers who held this bourne before them had been a long and brilliant one, including Houghton, Browne, Hornemann, Park, Tuckey, Peddie, Campbell, Gray, Ritchie, Bowdich, Oudney, Clapperton, Denham, Laing, Burckhardt, Beaufort, Mollien, Benzoni. 1 The next great feat was to find the Niger mouth, and to sight the Benue, or Tsadda, its eastern affluent. This was done by the brothers Lander (1830). The later triumphs of West African exploration belong to Dr. Richardson, who, accompanied by Dr. Barth and Dr. Overweg, two Prussian gentlemen, set out by way of Tripoli and the Sahara with the object of opening up commercial relations and concluding treaties with any native power so dis- posed, especially with the Sultan of Bornou. The chief object of Richardson's journey was to endeavour to lessen the horrible evils of the slave trade. One of the first steps, in his opinion, was to encourage legitimate traffic between Europe and the great nurseries of slaves, which might be done by entering into commercial relations with the most important Sates of Central Africa an idea which has commended itself more recently to the pioneers and merchant philanthropists of Eastern Central Africa, to whom it is abundantly clear that a developed and well-guarded highway which affords quick and easy communication with the interior is the most effective method of fighting with the slave traders and intercepting the caravan-routes. Mr. Richardson left England on his bold and philanthropic enterprise ' under the orders and at the expense of Her Majesty's Government.' He started from Tripoli on March 1850, and followed a route southward to Lake Tsaad, parallel with that of Oudney, Denham, and Clapperton (1822-1824), keeping, however, more to the west. Unfortunately, Richardson did not live to return, as he died at Unguratua in March 1851, a year after his departure from Tripoli. But he left behind 1 Preface to Travels to Timbuctoo, by Rene Caillie, London, 1830. The West African Settlements 95 him a diary of eight small and closely written volumes, which formed a most exhaustive description of Saharan regions hitherto untraversed and unexplored by Europeans. It was more especially due to the energies of Dr. Earth (1849-1855), the other companion of James Richardson, that the watershed of the Niger became revealed to the long- wondering eyes of Europe. Dr. Earth, after exploring Lake Tsaad, entered the kingdom of Bagirmi and reached its capital, purposing to extend his travels and to touch the Nile water- shed. Finding this impracticable, he turned south-west, and then chanced upon the Benue at Tepi. At this spot this river was 800 yards wide and eleven deep, and proved to be the eastern branch of the Niger or Quorrah. The whole of the district traversed by Dr. Earth was very fertile, and presented a vast field to the commerce of Europe. Men knew now that the Joliba and the Quorrah were one river ! The Niger was not the Nile, nor was it the Congo ! Nor did it disappear, as some thought, by magic, swallowed up in the thirsty sands of the vast Sahara ! The final touches to previous discoveries were given by an exploration conducted by the Pleiad and undertaken at the instance of the British Government. The Benue or Tsadda (Lander) was now surveyed as the eastern branch of the Niger, which discharges its waters into the Atlantic through several mouths the Nun channel being found to be the best for navigation. It should be mentioned that owing to the obser- vance of simple hygienic rules the crew of the Pleiad enjoyed almost a total immunity from fever a fact which told in favour of the Niger valley, hitherto associated with so many sad reminiscences and such gloomy tales of loss and failure for all Europeans. Such, in brief, were the chief expeditions made from all quarters of the compass from the Gambia on the west, from Tripoli on the north, and from distant Cairo on the east to unfold the 'ambages Nigri'; and to Englishmen the tale is one replete with national daring, hardihood, and enterprise to 96 British Colonisation which they can refer with pride and satisfaction giving all honour to the dead heroes who have fallen by the way. The epics of travel are closed and the prose of commerce begins, and England is reaping a rich harvest from the toils of her sons. To the merchant the Niger valley may mean a great deal, and he may be now seen to be entering upon the labours of the pioneer. Along the valley of the Niger and Benue the British may be brought into closer contact with the most intelligent races of the Western Sudan. Kuka, the capital of Bornou, near the western shores of the Tsaad, is one of the greatest markets of all Central Africa second only, it is said, to that of Kano in Sokoto. One of the most recent explorers of these regions was Dr. Nachtigal (1872), who, in company with other Germans, greatly extended German influence in these quarters. The British Royal Niger Company has, according to recent in- formation, confirmed and extended the provisions of a treaty with the Sultan of Sokoto, and also concluded treaties with the chiefs of Adamawa to the north-east of the Cameroons. English expeditions have a free run from the mouth of the Niger to Bornou and Lake Tsaad. For the moment English, German, and French interests all seem to meet in the neighbourhood of this lake. France from the regions of French Congo, England by way of the Niger, Germany from her coast territories, are rapidly converging upon the interior of West Central Africa. During this period of inland exploration and discovery, carried on with so much perseverance and determination, it must be remembered that the coast settlements were languish- ing and decaying. The prop of slavery had been taken away, and they had, metaphorically speaking, fallen to the ground. England maintained them not so much for their trade value as for the purpose of putting down or checking the slave trade. In the year 1819 no less than ^28,000 was granted by Parliament to the African Company. The annual value of The West African Settlements 97 the gold-dust and ivory did not exceed ; 100,000. Of the prospects of West Africa it was written at this date : ' The total inadequacy of these forts to prevent the slave trade will be obvious. The first on the Gold Coast is Apollonia, garrisoned by a black sergeant and two soldiers; it pays a tribute to the chief of the town, who seizes the governor's servants or withholds provisions whenever he wishes to bring them over to his own terms. The trade is very trifling, and the expense of keeping it up very considerable. Dix Cove, the next fort, has a soldier or two more ; its expense is somewhat greater than the former, and its trade less. Seconda, the third, is a thatched house with a governor and two black soldiers. It has little trade, and the next, Commendah, none at all. ' The headquarters of the African Company's corps and the residence of the Governor-in-Chief is Cape Coast Castle, a regular and well-constructed fortress. The strength of the garrison, composed chiefly of native blacks, officered by the traders, consists of about 100 men. The expense of main- taining this fort is considerable, and the trade of no conse- quence. Nine miles to the eastward of this is Anamaboe, a position of little importance except as a check upon the Ashantees, who have recently destroyed the town; it has a governor and a garrison of fifteen soldiers. It has little or no trade. Tantumquerry follows a very insignificant fort, in a ruinous condition, without trade, and altogether useless except as a point in the line of communication from Cape Coast Castle to the next fort, which is that of Accra, the easternmost of the Gold Coast. In importance Accra ranks next to Cape Coast. It has a small trade in ivory.' As may be imagined, this line of forts, placed on a line of coast extending for 200 miles, was miserably inadequate to serve as a check upon the slave trade, which was openly carried on under Spanish, Portuguese, and American flags. 1 In 1865 Lord Norton observed that evidence collected by the West African Committee, of which he was Chairman, 1 Quarterly Review, January 1820. G 98 British Colonisation showed that British commerce on these coasts has thriven better when we have established no settlement, as on the Niger. ' Our penitential plans for national redress of our injury to West Africa by suppressing the trade in slaves, which we first set up, have been ill-directed. The effort, money, health, life wasted in attempting locally to staunch the supply of slaves would probably have been better devoted to checking the extra demand for them. A wall of English corpses round the African shores could not stop the egress of slaves.' The slave trade could only die a gradual death on the western coast ; and in 1865 the demand was limited to the Cubans, to whom England paid ^400,000 to induce them to give up the slave trade. The Committee of 1865 recommended that we should ultimately withdraw from all West African governments, except perhaps Sierra Leone. Lord Norton observed that the West African squadron used to cost in round figures ^1,000,000 a year ; and in addition we have suffered directly by the fright- ful sacrifice of the lives of gallant men. Many reformers of our colonial system laid great stress thirty years ago upon the inadequate results of our occupation of the West African coasts, and have pointed out that settle- ments like the Gambia and Sierra Leone cannot be justified by any just economical argument. There was one use, however, which was suggested as follow- ing upon their occupation and this was that they supplied a recruiting ground for our West Indian regiments. The Kroomen, also, make most excellent seamen, and would furnish, in tropical countries, a most valuable contingent to England's mercantile marine. More recently it has been suggested that the coast of West Africa might become the scene of a gigantic scheme of negro repatriation, and that the descendants of the slaves of former times might now, in these more hopeful times of emancipation, be restored with advantage to all parties back to the shores whence their race was sprung. The ' middle passage ' might then be accomplished under widely different conditions, and The West African Settlements 99 the West Indians freed of what is sometimes considered the incubus of a redundant negro population. Under the pressing conditions, however, of the nineteenth century it is not likely that England, in a fit of misguided generosity, will restore the fee-simple of the West African littoral to hordes of repatriated negroes. Nor, indeed, is she likely to regard J;he settlements here as simply recruiting grounds for the West Indian regiments. A new industrial era may yet be in store for the West Coast after years of depression. A glance at the map will show that although explorers have long since traversed the Hinterland, England's occupation is chiefly limited to somewhat limited strips of littoral. Here, more than in any other region of the world, perhaps, the in- terests of European nations meet. British, French, Portuguese, and Germans all have shares in the west coast of Africa. This portion of the continent is curiously tesselated, and the international boundaries are especially intricate. In five different settlements or spheres of influence the red prevails. Beginning with the nearest, these are: i. the Gambia; 2. Sierra Leone; 3. the Gold Coast; 4. Lagos; 5. the Niger Protectorate. i. The Gambia has been described as 'a small and some- what retrograde colony, where by supineness and want of commercial energy we have allowed the French to obtain a considerable hold.' x The Upper Gambia has been taken under French protection quite recently, and by far the greater part of the commerce at the mouth of the Gambia is French. The Gambia itself is a waterway leading to the very heart of the French possessions in Senegambia. The Gambia was once a great stronghold of the slave trade, and the cessation of this traffic naturally brought about its decay. At one time it was suggested that England should effect an exchange with France, and give Gambia for French territory either on the Gold Coast, Porto Nova, or the Gaboon, or, if possible, barter it for French 1 Proceedings of the Royal Colonial Institute, vol. xx. p. 99. ioo British Colonisation fishery rights in Newfoundland ; but nothing has come of any of these proposals. Unlike other West African settlements, the Gambia does not possess the oil-palm. It is a very old colony, disputing even with Newfoundland the honour of being the oldest colony of Great Britain, dating back to 1588, the year of the Elizabethan patent. 1 2. Sierra Leone is a younger colony than the Gambia, having its origin in 1787 ; but it has not much to show for a century of British rule. Its coast-line extends for a distance of 1 80 miles from the Great Scarcies River to the Liberian frontier ; but England's influence does not reach far into the interior. It boasts, however, of a very good harbour, and the town of Freetown, originally a settlement for freed negro slaves, is beautifully situated at the corner of a peninsula, and at the base of deeply wooded mountains. The route to the interior plateaux of West Africa has greater advantages than that by way of the Gambia. The post is strongly fortified, and is a coaling-station for the British navy. At the back of Sierra Leone are the sources of the Upper Niger. Here a Moham- medan chief named Samadu is said to have reared a native kingdom of some power, which has been at war with France. The greatest natural curiosity of Sierra Leone is the chimpanzee found in the deep recesses of its forests. 2 3. The Gold Coast is not quite so ancient a settlement as the Gambia, but its occupation dates back to 1672, when a company was formed called the Royal African Company. Elmina, one of its posts, was discovered by the Portuguese in 1471 during the progress of their West African explorations. The British possessions now extend over a coast-line .of 350 miles, and are only separated by a short distance from Lagos. The inland limits are somewhat vague. The Ashantee kingdom may be regarded as falling within England's influence ; and it appears to rest with England to assume, if she wishes, a protectorate over the important kingdoms of Gyaman, of 1 For facts and figures see Appendix IV. Section A. 2 Ibid. Section B. The West African Setttemenit iui Salaga, and Yandi, the chiefs of which countries have sent presents to the Governor of the Gold Coast. Mr. H. H. Johnston has remarked that it would not be difficult to ex- tend British influence from the Gold Coast to the great bend of the Niger. The Gold Coast is, perhaps, best known to England through the two Ashantee campaigns : the first in 1824, when Sir Charles Macarthy, taking the side of the Fantees against the Ashantees, was killed and his force routed; the second in 1872, when Sir Garnet (now Lord) Wolseley marched up the Prah and took Coomassie, causing King Coffee to sign a peace advantageous to England. 1 4. Lagos is the youngest but the most prosperous of all England's West African settlements, its separate existence commencing only in 1863. The port has been termed 'the Liverpool of West Africa,' and is said to owe its prosperity to able management and a wise fiscal policy. Its natural lagoons, also, which stretch along the coast, facilitate the transport of products very greatly ; and, as Lagos is not more than 220 miles from the River Niger, it diverts a considerable amount of trade to itself. The colony boasts of a Botanical Garden the first in West Africa and this institution, in encouraging enterprise and the scientific treatment of plants and products, may effect as much as similar institutions in the West Indies. It has already been pointed out what stress Mr. Morris of Kew has laid upon the value of experimental gardens as developing in the West Indies ' a diversity of cultural industries.' Lagos is said to require only an improved harbour, such as would safely admit steamers of deep draught, to send it up to a higher pitch of prosperity than it already enjoys. 2 5. The Niger Protectorate is the most recent and valuable acquisition of the British Crown in West Africa. It includes the entire basin of the Lower Niger, including the Benin and Cross Rivers, and extends along the coast of Africa from the Benin River, where it joins the boundary of Lagos, to the mouth 1 For facts and figures see Appendix IV. Section C. 2 Ibid. Section D. IO2 1 B'ritish Colonisation of the Rio del Rey at 9 E. longitude. In 1886 a rtfyal charter was granted to the Royal Niger Company by which extensive powers were given to them, their operations ex- tending as far inland as Gando and Sokoto, being in touch with Darfur, Egypt, and Tripoli. The depot on the coast is Akassa. It is deserving of notice that along the valleys of the Nile and the Niger, as well as that of the Zambesi, British influence is now predominant. This influence has followed, in the first instance, as a result of a series of those remarkable explorations, carried on, as already pointed out, at various intervals principally since 1815 by British explorers. Mr. H. H. Johnston, late Vice-Consul for the Oil River and Cameroon's, and now Consul for Portuguese East Africa, has given a brief and interesting description of our West Coast colonies : * 'The geography of true Western Africa I am not here referring to the coast below the Cameroons, which may properly be considered as coming under the designation of Central or Southern Africa is comparatively simple. It consists of little else than the basin of the great Niger River, with its eastern affluent, the Benue. In fact, if you draw a short line from the upper waters of the Senegal River to the Upper Niger a distance of only a few miles you might with these two great streams form the northern boundary of the districts I am reviewing. Beyond lies the great Sahara Desert, which separates northern, temperate, and Mediterranean Africa from true Africa, the land of the blacks. The flora and fauna of Western Africa which is bounded on the north, as described, by the Senegal and Niger, and somewhat vaguely on the east between the water-parting of the Niger and Lake Tsaad and the River Shari, and the divide between the southern affluents of the Benue' and the streams that flow into the Cameroons estuary are of diverse characters. There is the Ethiopian sub-region of tropical Africa generally, which is especially 1 Proceedings of the Royal Colonial Institute, vol. xx. The West African Settlements 103 characteristic of Eastern and North Central Africa ; and there is the remarkable West African subdivision, which is confined to the narrow coast belt between the Gambia River and the mouth of the Congo, stretching inland from south of the Benue to the shores of the great equatorial lakes. 'In all the coast region between the Gambia and the Cameroons the most extravagant development of tropical vegetation is seen, except in such isolated spots of arid country as are found in the vicinity of Accra and the Gold Coast. Whereas the future wealth of the interior plateaux will most certainly lie in their mineral deposits, the riches of the West Coast region consist in numerous and valuable vegetable products, such as palm-oil and oil from ground nuts, benni- seed, shea butter, rubber, gums, spices, cotton, dyes such as camwood, cocoa-nuts, and valuable timbers, among which ebony occupies a prominent place. Negro races, of which the Kroo tribes in Liberia are the best specimens, are found along the coasts, and Mohammedans in the interior. There are many intermediate links to connect the pure negro with the typical Arab. Generally speaking, the West African colonies are interesting to us as spheres within which we may carry on a profitable trade and at the same time govern the native races. They cannot be colonies in the true sense as homes for men of our race.' 1 In this part of Africa, France, who subsidises the colony of Senegal with an annual payment of two million francs, and has launched steamers on the Niger, seems to be the rival of England. Major Ellis in his West African Islands alludes to the efforts made by France to block all trade from the interior reaching our Gambia and Guinea settlements. He expects much from the opening-up of the country, where there are numerous rivers, along the banks of which live many Mussul- man races who are fairly civilised, and in time may become large purchasers of European manufactured goods. The Western Sudan is considered a great prize by many Frenchmen, and 1 For facts and figures see Appendix IV. Section E. IO4 British Colonisation during the last decade Frenchmen have been making great progress with a view of 'forming a vast African colony, ex- tending from Algeria on the north to the peninsula of Sierra Leone on the south ; and in order to prevent any other nation from influencing the natives they are doing their best to isolate the British possessions on the Gambia River and at Sierra Leone/ St. Louis, the capital of French Senegal, is on an island in the Senegal River; Goree, the old port, is about 100 miles north of our Bathurst settlement ; and Dakar, the new port, is opposite Goree Island, and promises to have a monopoly of trade. It is connected with St. Louis by a railway. Extension of railways is a favourite French project in West Africa ; and if the Medine-Bammakou-Timbuctoo line is con- structed, the French will be in a good position to hold com- mand of all trade in this part of the world. Already we are told there are thirteen military posts formed between the Niger and the St. Louis. One of the most enthusiastic Frenchmen who helped to develop French Africa was General Faidherbe. In Senegal, French trade increased from 28 J millions of francs in 1878 to 47 millions in 1883. The chief trade is in ground nuts, palm-oil, nuts, rubber, and gum. In the interior there are gold-mines, as at Bouri on the left of the Niger. Bammakou on the Niger is 1000 miles from St. Louis and 325 miles only from Khayes, on the Senegal termination of navigation. A railway between the two points would immensely facilitate intercourse. Bammakou was gained by Captain Gallieni in 1880. Within recent times there have been seventeen protectorates proclaimed by France in North-West Africa. Further south, also, it must be remembered that France holds important trading-stations on the Gold Coast, Slave Coast, and Ivory Coast, the equatorial settlement of Gaboon, and the magnificent domain of French Congo. From the purchase of a small strip of country on the estuary of the Gaboon river, France has gone on rapidly acquiring an acknowledged foothold over a vast region The West African Settlements 105 between the middle Congo and the ocean. One of the most distinguished French travellers of recent times in this country has been M. de Brazza, who explored the Upper Ogoue. Mr. Stanley has described the position of France in this quarter : ' France is now mistress of a West African territory noble in its dimensions, equal to the best tropic lands for its vegetable productions, rich in mineral resources, most promising for its future commercial importance. In area it covers a super- ficies of 257,000 square miles, an area equal to that of France and England combined, with access on the eastern side to 5200 miles of river navigation. On the west is a coast-line nearly 800 miles long, washed by the 'Atlantic Ocean. It contains within its borders eight spacious river basins, and throughout all its broad surface of 90,000,000 square hectares not one utterly destitute of worth can be found.' France has come well out of the recent scramble for African territory, and at the Congo Conference she gained more actual territory than any other Power. The reversion of the magni- ficent Congo Free State, that includes the valley of the Congo and its affluents, and nearly touches the valley of the Zambesi, may be hers. Over a huge portion of Africa French influence is certainly increasing; and if she has lost colonial outposts elsewhere, she has won 2,000,000 square miles of territory here. Patriotic Frenchmen desire to make certain definite centres in Africa where Frenchmen will 'find an asylum against the jealous competition of Europeans as much as against the hostility of the natives.' Among such hospitable stations would be Franceville, Alima, and Brazzaville. This suggestion has emanated from the veteran Lesseps, and it remains to be seen whether the colonising energy of individual Frenchmen will be sufficient to utilise their magnificent ideals. Access to the highlands of Central Africa beyond the river valleys will doubtless be much facilitated by railways. In the history of French colonisation it cannot, however, be forgotten that at one time this nation seemed to hold the destinies of the Lake districts and the Mississippi valley in 106 British Colonisation the New World in their own hands, and that it was chiefly through the lack of individual zeal and perseverance that their Transatlantic empire fell through. On the west coast of Africa, however, some of the hardiest sailors and colonists have been known for centuries. The seamen of Dieppe and Rouen, going southwards between the Canaries and the mainland, visited the ports of the Gold Coast and Guinea, gave their names to the bays and headlands, and formed settlements under royal sanction at Elmina, Fantin, and Cormontin. In 1600-1700, under Richelieu and Colbert, afforts were made to develop West Africa by means of companies. Frenchmen, at first, made the same mistake as ourselves and other nations in supposing that a tropical country could be opened up by agriculturists from home. The fate of the Highlanders at Panama, and our own colonists on the Niger itself, and also at various times in the West Indian islands, overtook the French peasantry when transplanted to the malarious regions of Senegal. French trade and colonisation were also cramped and fettered by a hidebound system of Government protection and bounties. In one thing the French were consistent, French merchants being always compelled to buy and sell at Govern- ment depots. Political disturbances at home have combined to render French occupation of the West Coast as ineffectual in its results as elsewhere. During the troubles that followed upon 1789, all the French forts of the Upper Senegal were destroyed : there was no permanence and continuity in the government of West Africa, no fewer than thirty-two officers administering the settlements between 1817 and 1857. French Africa seemed to lie like an incubus upon French home resources ; and Senegal, which surrendered to the British in 1809, but was restored by the Treaty of Paris, was returned upon French hands like a white elephant, expensive to keep and hard to be disposed of to any one. As above hinted, however, Senegal has, owing to the policy of M. Faidherbe, begun to acquire a new significance in relation to the rest of The West African Settlements 107 West Africa. The engineering skill and mechanical inventions of the nineteenth century have come to the aid of France, and, under a peaceful and stable Government France may yet carry out a great work of civilisation in West and North- West Africa. Quite recently the Morocco question has revealed to how great an extent France is interested in this part of the world. References : Park (Mungo), Travels in Africa, 1795-97. Caillie's Travels to Timbuctoo, 1830. A Voyage down the Dark River, by Richard and John Lander, 1832. Up the Niger ; by Captain Mockler-Ferryman, 1892. The Development of Africa, by Silva White, 1892. The West African Islands, by Major Ellis. Through Fanteeland to Coomassie, by Frederick Boyle, 1874. Proceedings of the Royal Colonial Institute, passim. CHAPTER VI THE SOUTH AFRICAN COLONIES THERE is no group of colonies whose annals abound in such picturesque and dramatic incidents as the South African. In the first place, the Kaffir wars alone furnish a whole epic of adventure. Who can read unmoved the story of our campaigns from the beginning of the present century to the last Zulu War ? British troops have met and overcome a black foe of extraordinary courage and vitality, totally unlike the aborigines of other countries, and gifted with intelligence of a high order. For those who know the Kaffir races con- cede to them a measure of understanding that goes further than mere barbaric craft. Their well-known leaders, such as Macomo, Sandili, Kreli, Cetywayo, have all been men of superior calibre, possessed of powers of organisation infinitely more effectual than those of ordinary -savages ; and they have succeeded in compelling in their own persons the unswerving loyalty of thousands. Kaffir chiefs have been kingly men, ruling as kings should, and summing up the powers of the State in themselves. L'etat io to ^20 per acre. Virgin land can be bought for i to 2 per acre. 1 1 For facts and figures see Appendix VIII. References : Fiji and the Fijians, by Williams and Calcraft, 1853. The Mutineers of the 'Bounty J by Lady Belcher. Myths and Songs from the Pacific, by Gill, 1876. Two Years in Fiji, by Sitton Forbes, M.D., 1875. My Consulate in Samoa, by Churchward, 1887. Picturesque New Guinea, by T. W. Lindt, 1887. New Guinea, by Charles Lyne, 1885. 'Agriculture in Fiji,' Proceedings of the Royal Colonial Institute, vol. xxi. CHAPTER XII CEYLON AND THE MALDIVE ARCHIPELAGO LIKE many other parts of Asia, Ceylon has been subject in turn to the three dominations of the Portuguese, Dutch, and British. After finding their way to the East by way of the Cape in 1497-8, under Vasco da Gama, the Portuguese held the monopoly of the East for a hundred years. In 1505 they began to form settlements on the west and south of the island. The Portuguese held two opinions with regard to the main features of an Oriental policy, represented by two great authorities, Almeida and Albuquerque. Francisco d' Almeida, the first Viceroy, who went out in 1505 in command of twenty- two ships, and laid the foundations of Portuguese commerce in Indian waters, argued that Portugal needed no large number of forts and positions in the East, provided only one good harbour was secured. He who was master of the sea, he observed, was master of India. Albuquerque nourished a higher ambition, and encouraged not merely the idea of a sea traffic but also of a chain of forts and strong insular and continental positions everywhere. The policy of Albuquerque prevailed, and Portuguese dominion came to be represented in many places by many strongholds. 3 But their Eastern empire was too unwieldy as a whole to stand : the Portuguese rulers were cruel and rapacious one of their own countrymen, Diogo do Couto, observing that the governors of Portuguese India who doubled the Cape of Good Hope lost all fear of God and fear of the king. 1 Three Voyages of Vasco da Gama, Hakluyt Series. 228 Ceylon and the Maldive Archipelago 229 In Ceylon the Portuguese found no difficulty in planting their factories along the coast, and from this basis carried on a succession of raids to the Kandian capital, burning everything, and not sparing the king's palace. As a sign of submission, they exacted an annual tribute of three elephants. The Kandian king called in the aid of the Dutch, who easily expelled the Portuguese and established themselves (1655). At the beginning of this century the Portuguese name, language, religion, and numerous missionary establishments existed ; but in the growth of the island even these signs and landmarks have been lost sight of and obliterated. Nearly a hundred years ago (1803) Mr. Cordiner wrote: ' There is still a large body of inhabitants at Colombo and the other settlements in Ceylon known by the name of Portuguese. They probably amount to the number of 5000. They are, however, completely degenerated, and exhibit complexions of a blacker hue than any of the original natives. Yet they retain a considerable portion of the pride of their ancestors : wear the European dress ; profess the religion of the Church of Rome; and think themselves far superior to the lower classes of the Singhalese. They are, in fact, a spurious race of all mixtures. Any black fellow who can procure a hat and shoes, with a vest and breeches, and who has acquired some little smattering of the Roman Catholic religion, can aspire to the title of a Portuguese.' This passage, written in 1803, is instructive, as it throws light upon a somewhat kindred subject, viz., the nature of Portuguese colonisation on the east coast of Africa, in the vicinity of Delagoa Bay, Sofala, and the mouths of the Zambesi, about which so much has recently been said in the delimitation of boundaries between Great Britain and Portugal. Such as the Portuguese colonists were in their mongrel and debased character near Colombo in Ceylon, so were they for generations along the east coast of Africa. The Portuguese colonial life has been a feeble and retrograde factor, their governors incompetent, their colonists black fellows with 230 British Colonisation Portuguese names only, and their soldiers hired native mer- cenaries. With regard to Ceylon, it could not have been without a pang of national regret that the island was lost to Portugal. The King of Portugal was so anxious of preserving it that he inserted this clause in all his instructions : ' Let all India be lost, so that Ceylon be saved.' At the beginning of this century Ceylon was divided betweeen Their High Mightinesses the States-General and the King of Kandy. The Dutch held a belt of sea-coast running all round the island, broad in some parts and narrow in others, within which the latter was cooped up ' as in an enchanted circle. 7 The Kandians had certain articles of commerce for exchange or sale, such as areca nuts, ivory, and honey ; whilst the Dutch had two indispensable articles for the Kandians, e.g. fish and salt. On this basis trade was conducted, but the Kandians naturally desired an establishment on the sea-coast. When the island passed into the hands of the British in 1795-6, the number of Dutchmen amounted to about nine hundred. In their habits and customs the Dutch of Ceylon resembled the Dutch of Batavia, or of any other of their Eastern settlements: described by one traveller as 'all rising early to drink a cup of coffee and smoke a pipe ; all wearing velvet clothing, eating freely, and sleeping after dinner ; and all so averse to walking that it was a common saying that no Europeans but Englishmen and dogs ever walked in Batavia.' Travellers at the Cape of Good Hope and Natal will in some of these characteristics detect a strong family resemblance between the Dutch colonists of Ceylon and of South Africa, especially in their preference for cups of coffee and their dis- like to pedestrianism. In Ceylon the Dutch settler would seem to have been poor and indigent, compelled, after the surrender of the island to the British, to practise rigid economy. The trade system of the Dutch had been one of strict commercial monopoly. As long as pearls and nutmegs bore a high price in Amsterdam, the Dutch cared nothing whether fisheries were stopped, spice-trees were dug up, and Ceylon and the Maldive Archipelago 23 1 all native arts checked. The prosperity of the island itself and the good of the inhabitants were never considered. A judicious land-tax levied fairly on the island might have been found by the Dutch to be a most legitimate source of revenue, such as in fact our own Governor Raffles found it to be in Java, the Dutch possession temporarily occupied by ourselves from 1808 to 1814. This land-tax in lieu of forced services, forced delivery of goods, and a compulsory system generally, is always more popular amongst subject native races, and better calculated to stimulate their industries. Such was the island which, after its feeble occupation by Portuguese and Dutch, was destined to pass into the more energetic hands of the British. Our growing empire in India seemed to demand the speedy occupation of this fair island, with its magnificent harbour of Trincomalee, lying close to its shores. Our rule would not be safe with the Bay of Trin- comalee in the hands of a foreign Power. The island com- mands, by virtue of its position, the two coasts of Malabar and Coromandel, and at the beginning of this century it was considered * as the master-key to Hindustan ' in the event of any disturbances in the Peninsula. It was also regarded as the depot of the distant China trade, in case England's position was in jeopardy in Canton. On the subject of the importance of Trincomalee at the beginning of this century a writer in the Quarterly Review has observed : * Had Trincomalee been in our possession when the dreadful famine ravaged Madras during Lord Macartney's government, and the fleet of Sir Edward Hughes was compelled to flee for shelter to Bombay, whilst the French frigates insulted the coast of Coromandel and obstructed the provision-ships intended for its relief, Madras might have escaped the horrible evils to which its unhappy inhabitants were subjected.' Some of the chief strategic and commercial reasons that made Ceylon and the port of Trincomalee so valuable and important a hundred years ago have wholly or partially dis- appeared. The British foot is firmly planted in the adjoining 232 British Colonisation peninsula, and neither Trincomalee nor Colombo is regarded in the light of a last resource or a city of refuge. Our China trade at Hong Kong lies now in a well-protected zone of British influence, and our chief entrepots in Chinese waters can take good care of themselves, and all branches of Eastern trade have made marvellous progress along distinct and separate channels. In a certain sense, therefore, the relative importance of Ceylon as a strategic position is much less than it was a -hundred years ago. Nevertheless, the island has a rare vantage-ground. It lies in the fair-way of ocean traffic, and is the meeting-place of all nations. Although it is but ' a silver streak ' that divides the island from India, this streak at some future time may have an immense and almost incalculable value. Should British rule be imperilled in the peninsula in some future war of nations, the island of Ceylon might be for the British an impregnable stronghold and a priceless basis. For no enemy of England could regard the conquest of the Indian peninsula complete unless he conquered as well the island at its foot. Coming to recent times, it may truly be said that the prosperity of Ceylon has within the last fifty years hung upon the development of two leading products coffee and tea. There has been an era of great coffee-plantations in past years, and now the era of tea-plantations is before us. To describe the history of these two remarkable industries is to tell nearly the whole tale of Ceylon progress. With regard to coffee, it may be truly stated that for thirty years from 1837 to 1867 the whole energy of the planters was devoted to its cultiva- tion. To a certain extent the berry had been grown under Dutch rule, and in 1825 Sir Edward Barnes, the Governor of Ceylon, formed a coffee-plantation near Kandy. Sugar, cotton, nutmegs, cinnamon, tobacco, cocoa-nuts, were all planted in the island ; but little by little attention came to be concen- trated almost wholly upon coffee. About this time the abolition of slavery in the West Indies and the reduction of import duties upon coffee into the United Kingdom stimulated coffee- Ceylon and the Maldive Archipelago 233 planting in Ceylon. The profits that ensued were at that time fabulous and unprecedented, and an extraordinary rush was made by every class of society upon coffee-planting in Ceylon. Mr. Loudoun Shand has described this rush and the con- sequences ensuing upon it : ' Soldiers, sailors, clergymen, civil servants plunged into coffee-planting with every penny they had or could borrow ; and accompanied, as all such fevers are, by injudicious selections and extravagant mismanagement, who could wonder that a heavy fall in the price of coffee in Europe, and a consequent cessation of credit to plant and cultivate estates, produced a crisis which checked and threatened to stifle the coffee enterprise of Ceylon ? But as in the case of Indian tea, so from the coffee crisis in Ceylon there emerged a body of men poorer, perhaps, but wiser; and now, founded upon experience taught by misfortune, the enterprise steadily grew, though subject, of course, to all the vicissitudes incidental to tropical agriculture; and in 1870 and the two preceding years the average annual value of the coffee was roundly ^4,000,000.' J Ceylon prosperity was at its height about 1866-1872. During the governorship of Sir Hercules Robinson (1865-1871) no less than 227,000 acres of Crown lands were sold to the planters. Before this, and during the years 1861 to 1865, there had come into the market 156,000 acres, and upon this, for the most part virgin soil, British energy and capital had been flung with an unstinting hand. The cost of clearing a single acre of forest is estimated at ;io, and some idea of the planters' investments may be gained. The sale of Crown lands was a wise measure and productive of great results, although some have thought that, under the circumstances, it would have been better if the land had been leased instead of alienated. The year of greatest export of coffee was from 1874 to 1875, when nearly 1,000,000 cwt. of coffee was shipped 1 Proceedings of the Royal Colonial Instittite, vol. xix. 234 British Colonisation from the island. From this year must be dated the sudden and rapid decline of the industry. In 1886-7 on ^y 150,000 cwt. was sold in the London market. In 1891, for nine months of the year, i.e. from January to September 21, the export was only 63,109 cwt. 1 The cause of this decline was a parasitic growth on the leaf of the coffee-bush known as the Hemileia vastatrix. This disease first showed itself in a place called Madulsima, in the Uva district. At first the planters thought little of it, as the natural vigour of the coffee-shrub seemed long able to resist it, and a great deal was done to strengthen the plant by artificial means. Under the impression that an imported shrub would best be able to withstand the attack (just as the imported American vine resists better in France the ravages of the Phylloxera), the Liberian was substituted on some estates for the native shrub. Unfortunately, the imported shrub succumbed quicker than the others, and in ten years the once fertile and prosperous area of coffee-plantations pre- sented a forlorn and desolate appearance. It was evident that a crisis had come and gone in the history of Ceylon, and the planter's ruin was complete. From this wreck of the coffee industry a new one was destined shortly to arise. Between the withered rows of coffee-shrubs, by way of a precarious venture, the tea-shrub was planted, ' the green monitor of hope in the ranks of despair.' The plant itself ( Camellia Theifera} was not indigenous to the island, its native place being in the mountainous parts of Assam, and near the frontiers of China. 2 But as the Chinese had long acclimatised this Assam product, and the Indian planters had already succeeded with it, there was no reason why the Ceylon planters should not make an experiment. Moreover, the Planters' Association had already (1866) appointed a commissioner to visit and report upon the tea- plantations in India. One of the earliest experiments was 1 Returns in Ceylon Observer. 2 Statement by Mr. D. Morris, Proceedings of the Royal Colonial Institute, vol. xix. Ceylon and the Maldive Archipelago 235 made by Mr. James Taylor, the manager of the Loolcondura estate, who may almost be termed the pioneer of the new industry. At first it was thought that tea could be grown at high elevations only, but about 1876 it was proved that the lowlands of Ceylon were equally well adapted to the industry. Tea-planting began in earnest, and over all the surface of Ceylon, from the sea-level to a height of 6000 feet, plantations have been laid out. This new industry has advanced by leaps and bounds, and constitutes one of the marvels of the age. It is an industry, however, which requires the greatest skill and science, as well as an unwearying attention to details. In Ceylon the tea-bush ' flushes ' all the year round in suitable weather, a period of ten or fifteen days elapsing between the ' flushes.' The leaves have to be picked with care, and the shrub carefully watched lest the wood become thickened and the obnoxious ' crows'- nests ' multiply upon its branches. When a tea-shrub bunches its efficacy becomes impaired. The leaf is useful in three stages in its youth, maturity, and old age. First there is the delicate * Pekoe,' or the young leaf before it is unfurled ; next the 'Souchong,' or the leaf in its maturity; and lastly the * Congou,' or the old and coarsest leaf, which is of a brittle nature and difficult to roll. In the factory itself the planter has to be as watchful as in the field. To dry the fresh-plucked leaves in the right way, to break and crush their tissues by the pressure of rolling- machines, and to pass the heaps through a process of natural fermentation, are all delicate operations. The leaf that is plucked on a Monday morning should give a refreshing beverage on Wednesday, and from week to week and from month to month the operations of the Ceylon tea-planter are incessant. Some would say that the shrub has not enough cold weather, and consequently a rest, in Ceylon, and that from this circumstance it may become deteriorated ; but hitherto no diminution of natural vigour has shown itself. To China, and even India, Ceylon is now a formidable rival, and she threatens 236 British Colonisation to monopolise the trade. There are from 200 to 250 estates in cultivation, yielding between seventy and eighty million pounds' weight of tea, worth close upon ^3, 000,000 annually. The best market is the United Kingdom, where it is calculated that the consumption averages yearly four or five pounds a head. This is exceeded by the Australian colonist, who drinks seven pounds a head. Besides Australia, a growing market for tea is found in Canada and the United States, where the article is admitted duty free. Should Americans become tea-drinkers, the fortunes, surely, of Ceylon planters are assured, as the Pacific routes especially that by way of the Canadian Pacific Railway become better known and used. The great fear of the Ceylon planters is over-production. In 1876 the export of tea was 282 Ibs. ; in 1887-8 it was 13,500,000 Ibs; in 1890-1 it exceeded 40,000,000 Ibs. ; in 1891-2 it was close on 70^000,000 Ibs ; and in 1892-3 it is cal- culated at 78,000,000 Ibs. THE MALDIVE ARCHIPELAGO. In connection with Ceylon, the Maldive Islands, a Ceylon dependency, must be mentioned. Pyrard de Laval, the French explorer, who was wrecked on the group in 1602, has left a very good account of them, which Captain Christopher, employed on the survey of the islands in 1834-5, and Mr. Bell in 1880, have in the main substantiated, thus proving the immobile nature of Eastern civilisation. This group of islands, lying in the Indian Ocean, has provided its visitors with much that is extremely interesting. ' Each inhabited island is a little village, separated from its neighbours by sea and lagoon ; yet the whole forms and, as far as we can trace the islands in history, has formed a compact kingdom, with a well-designed constitution, a Cabinet of Ministers, a body of executive and judicial, religious and revenue officers, all in due subordination. Were not the whole aspect of Maldive Ceylon and the Maldive Archipelago 237 civilisation coloured and penetrated by Mohammedanism, that ever-present factor in the East, we might regard Pyrard's description of this little kingdom, so strange and yet so par- ticular, as one which might have come from the hand of Swift or Defoe. The islands are almost countless, and are said to number 12,000 or 13,000. According to Ptolemy, there were 1368 islands in the vicinity of Ceylon. Friar Jordanus had heard of 10,000 or 12,000, and Marco Polo asserted that there were 12,700 inhabited and uninhabited. Most of the islands are very small, separated by narrow channels, and the Maldivians are almost amphibious in their habits, swimming easily from one to the other. They are very skilful fishermen, and export fish to Ceylon. All these islands and banks have been divided into thirteen provinces, called atollons, from a Maldive word atolu a word which has become of general use. 2 The chief atoll is Male, which has eight inhabited islets attached to it. Altogether there are 175 inhabited islands. The religion of Buddha found its way there in past times, and on one of the islands there are said to be ' the jungle-covered ruins of a tope or dagoba,' as in Ceylon. One of the islands is known as * Buddha's City ' and another as ' Bo-tree Island.' At present there are only two Bo-trees growing in the group. The Maldivians have borne the character of being kind and hospitable islanders. From time to time they have been visited by many travellers. In the time of Pyrard (1602) two languages were in use one of them peculiar to the Maldives, and the other Arabic, by which they set great store, learning it as a classical language. They also spoke, according to the same authority, the languages of Cambay, Guzerat, Malacca, and even Portuguese. Moham- medanism is the current religion of these islanders. The Fast of Ramedan, the rite of circumcision, and all the rules of Mahomet are most scrupulously observed. On the islands Goma or Ambergris, the sea coco-nut (coco 1 Voyage of Pyrard de Laval, p. xliii. 2 Ibid. 238 British Colonisation de mer\ the ancient remedy for all ailments, was found. Here also is gathered in large quantities the cowry, the most widely used shell-money in Africa and the East. In former days the Portuguese bought cowries in large numbers at the Maldives. The current coin was, acording to Pyrard, a silver one called a Larin, stamped with the king's name in Arabic characters. The word is said to have been taken from the city Lar in Persia. Coco fruit, cordage, and the well-known Maldive mats, made of a rush growing in one atoll only, are articles of commerce. Cotton cloth also has been manufac- tured for centuries amongst the Maldivians. Another, and perhaps the chief, occupation of the Maldivians has been fishing from time immemorial both deep-sea fishing, by which they catch albacore and bonito (known, when cured, as komboli mas in Ceylon and Indian bazaars), and in-shore fishing, by which they catch the ' red chief of fish,' or the rangoo ; and also fishing at low-water, when the equinoctial season comes, by means of a fish-kraal an ingenious method, practised also in Ceylon, for driving the fish into stone enclosures. The Maldives have passed successively under the rule of Portuguese, Dutch, and British. The Portuguese took Male, deposing the Sultan and building a fortress. When the Dutch drove the Portuguese out of Ceylon, the archipelago of the Maldives was included in their rule, and in 1640 a Dutch vessel was sent to the Maldivians from Ceylon. The Dutch were always on friendly terms with the Maldivians, and recog- nised the Maldive flag. In 1754 Dupleix sent a few French troops to Male, but they were soon withdrawn. When Ceylon was taken by the British the Maldives were included in the conquest ; and the Sultan of the Maldivians, who are supposed to number about 30,000, recognises the protectorate of Great Britain by sending annually an embassy to Colombo with presents to the Governor of Ceylon. To the ethnologist the Maldivians have provided a most interesting study. Male is about 400 miles distant from Ceylon, and the islands Ceylon and the Maldive Archipelago 239 themselves have succeeded in preserving for centuries a peculiar and distinctive character of their own. 1 1 For facts and figures see Appendix IX. References : Description of Ceylon, by Robert Knox. Lucas's Hist. Geog. of the British Colonies, vol. i. Ceylon, by Sir James Emerson Tennent. Fergusson's Handbook of Ceylon, 1892. Proceedings of the, Royal Colonial Institute, vol. xix. Rifle and Hound in Ceylon, by Sir S. Baker. Two Happy Years in Ceylon, by C. F. Gordon Gumming The Ceylon Observer. CHAPTER XIII MAURITIUS MAURITIUS, like Madagascar, must be regarded as an African island, although it lies so far removed from the great continent. Originally (1505) it was discovered by Mascarenhas, the Portuguese explorer ; but the Portuguese only made use of the island as a port of call. In 1598 a Dutch fleet sighted Mauritius, and the commander gave the island its present name, calling it after Prince Maurice of Nassau. For some years, however, they neglected to utilise the island, turning their attention to more profitable quarters. About the middle of the seventeenth century the French made great efforts to form colonial settlements in this part of the world, the King of France having taken into his own hands the management of the factories at Madagascar, and Bishop Estienne being then employed with a large staff of missionaries in erecting a monastery near Port Dauphin. The French had also occupied Mascarenhas, which they termed Bourbon. Clearly, therefore, the Dutch ought to increase their influence in Mauritius if they wished to keep their hold upon these waters; and in June 1664 a Dutch expedition under Jacobus van Nieuwland landed on the island. It was governed thenceforward as a dependency of the Cape, and every year a vessel sailed from Table Bay with supplies, bringing back ebony logs. 1 A few burghers and thirty or forty men were its only white inhabi- tants, and there was scarcely a semblance of administration in the island. The Dutch authorities were so dependent upon the Cape that they could not carry out their sentences until 1 Theal's History of Sottth Africa, p. 159. 240 Mauritius 24 1 reviewed by the Council of Justice at the Cape. Very little, therefore, came of the Dutch occupation of Mauritius. At the time of the revocation of the Edict of Nantes (1685), whilst Mauritius was still under Dutch influence, an attempt was made to colonise the neighbouring island of Rodriguez with French Huguenot refugees an immigration that reminds us of the planting, about the same time, of the French Huguenots at the Cape of Good Hope. An account of the expedition is given by Frangois Leguat, one of the passengers, who dedicated his work to Henri de Grey, Marquis et Comte de Kent, Pair de la Grand' Bretagne (1708). In his work there is a map of Rodriguez, * decouverte par les Portugais sous le Roi Jen iv., Tan 1645, et depuis habite'e pendant 1'espace de deux ans et 20 jours par Frangois Leguat, Jaq. de la Case, Jean Testard, Isaac Boyer, Jean de la Haye, Robert Anselin, et Pi. Thomas, Frangois Protestans, fugitifs pour leur re- ligion.' Frangois Leguat was a refugee of noble blood who was originally sent out to inspect and report upon the island of Bourbon, where the Marquis du Quene proposed to estab- lish a colony under the protection of the States-General and the East India Company of the Netherlands an object which is fully described in the Cape archives. The captain of the ship passed by Bourbon or Eden, as the refugees had called it and set the party on shore on the island of Rodriguez. From Rodriguez he passed over to the Mauritius. In 1721 Mauritius fell an easy prey to the French, and its name was changed to the Isle of France, which it retained till 1 8 10. In the Isle of France French colonisation was, as in the province of Quebec, fairly successful. The pictures of colonial life as shown in Bernardin de St. -Pierre's narrative are almost as attractive as those of Acadia in Nova Scotia in both cases there are scenes of pastoral and natural wealth. In the valleys of Grand Pr and within sight of Grand Blomidon the peasantry live on their fat dyked pastures and beneath their happy Acadian orchards ; in Mauritius they live in the land of the badamier, the mango, the avocatier. Q 242 British Colonisation Labourdonnais, a native of St. Malo, and one of the best colonial governors France has ever produced, did a great deal for Mauritius, establishing sugar-works and creating that industry which has since made Mauritius so prosperous. He also encouraged cotton and indigo manufactories, and put down the maroons or runaway slaves of the country. The policy of Labourdonnais (1741) was to make Mauritius a station which might serve as a basis of operations against rival Europeans in the Eastern seas and a depot of French trade. This policy was in its main features opposed entirely to the ideas of St. Pierre, who in 1773 criticised the Eastern policy of France. To use his own words : ' I thought in the first place to render an essential service to my country by demonstrating that this island, which was filled with troops, was in no respect fit either to be the mart or the citadel of the commerce of France with the East Indies, from which it is 1500 leagues distant. This position I proved by the events of former wars, in which Pondicheri was always taken by the enemy, though the Isle of France swarmed with troops.' For his expressed theories St. Pierre incurred great unpopularity. However, it was as abase of privateering raids against English commerce that Mauritius and Bourbon were at the beginning of this century most useful to France. When the Republican navy was shattered by England in one desperate encounter after another, and resistance by open sea rendered impossible, French India having been lost once and for all, daring French privateers hailing from the northern ports of France as daring and brave in their way as our Devon worthies of the sixteenth century sallied forth upon the Indian waters, and carried on for a time a most destructive campaign upon British com- merce. In the years 1793-4, we are told, French privateers captured no fewer than 788 English merchantmen, whilst we only took 151 prizes. 'The merchants of Calcutta and Madras stood aghast. Commerce was at a standstill, our cruisers were outwitted, and on more than one occasion, in spite of their heavier metal, had been compelled to haul down Mauritius 243 their flags to the pygmy privateers hailing from the" port of St. Malo. . . . The history of Surcouf, the daring Malouine privateer, is not flattering to our national vanity, but it teaches us a lesson which should not be lost upon our naval adminis- trators. Leaving Isle of France in September 1795 in a little craft of 180 tons, with a crew of thirty Bretons and an armament of four six-pounders, he commenced a career which for daring and sagacity has rarely been equalled, even in our own annals. Sailing northward, Surcouf coasted the Burmese coasts and captured the Penguin, an Indiaman of 600 tons burthen ; in January at the mouth of the Hooghly he sighted two full-rigged ships, both of which he captured, sending them to the Isle of France; shortly afterwards he captured the Diana, 850 tons, laden with rice, and the next day he boarded and captured an Indiaman, the Triton, carrying 26 guns and 150 men.' In 1799 Surcouf fitted out the Clarisse from France, and again sought Eastern waters. On the way out he captured two full-rigged merchantmen, and pursued an extraordinary career. Amongst other exploits he 'took in September 1800 one American and two English traders; and on the 7th of October, after a desperate combat, in which, having shown even more than usual address and gallantry, he carried, by boarding, the Kent, a fine Indiaman of 820 tons, 27 guns, having on board 437 Englishmen, of whom 120 were soldiers.' In 1806 he appears in Indian waters again in command of the Ravenant, and such was the terror of his name that the merchants of Hindustan offered a reward of ;io,ooo for his capture. 'Reaching his destination, Surcouf sailed to the Malabar coast, and on the 26th of September captured the Trafalgar, 12, and the Mangles, 14, both carry- ing cargoes of rice ; and in the course of the next few days five more vessels, the Admiral Aplin, Susanna, Hunter, For- tune, and Success, were captured, and in November the New Endeavour and the Micawby were placed under prize-crews and despatched to the Isle of France.' The career of Surcouf, after whom a French ship is now named, was emulated by 244 BritisJi Colonisation Frangois Lememe, another Malouine, who in the space of ten months captured fifteen vessels and realised ^82,000. Dutertre, another Malouine, captured in October 1798 no less than six English merchantmen the Surprise, Princess Royal, Thomas, Lord Hobart, Governor North, and Wellesley. These privateering raids are worth recalling to memory, as in the future, if ever war breaks out between France and England, they may possibly be repeated on a greater and, for ourselves, more disastrous scale. In 1809 a force was sent from Bombay to take possession of Rodriguez, the refuge formerly of Frangois Leguat, the Protestant exile. Bourbon surrendered in 1810, and in the same year, after a stiff resistance, the British troops under General Abercrombie succeeded in landing on the north coast of Mauritius and capturing it. Articles of capitulation were signed by which the Creoles, or French colonists born in the country, were secured in the enjoyment of their pro- perty, religion, laws, and customs. By the Treaty of Paris, 1814, the Isle of France, henceforward to be called Mauritius, was to remain a British colony, together with the Seychelles and other small islands. Bourbon or Reunion was to be restored to France. It is somewhat extraordinary to think that the conquest of the French islands of Bourbon and the Isle of France was ever regarded by statesmen as an event only second in importance to the battle of Trafalgar. Yet such was the case in 1811. By the capture of the Isle of France, England cut off a nursery for training sea-officers and narrowed the means of raising seamen. The Isle of France was also the spot from which the spirit of revolt and disobedience against British rule was most sedulously kept alive amongst the Mahrattas and other powers of Hindustan. It was full of adventurers eager for the prizes of guerilla warfare ; it supplied arms and ammunition, together with officers to teach the use of them, to the disaffected in Persia. French commercial agents found their way to Muscat and Bussorah from the Isle of France. Mauritius 245 The permanent settled population of Europeans is greater in Mauritius than in any other tropical colony, and many of them are descendants of the old French nobility. The term ' Creole' is applied to all those who, whether white or coloured, are born on the island, and therefore carries no stigma with it. The island produces hardly anything for its own consumption, but exports sugar, spice, and other tropical products to every quarter of the globe. It imports its breadstuffs from India, its oxen from Madagascar, dried fish from South Africa, and sheep from Australia. Occasionally the island is visited by terrible cyclones, which create havoc amongst the sugar-canes. The most disastrous cyclone ever known visited the island on ' Black Friday,' April 29, 1892. At 3 P.M. on that eventful day the velocity of the wind is said to have reached 1 2 1 miles an hour. One- third of the city of Port Louis lay in ruins, 1500 houses were totally destroyed and 20,000 people rendered homeless. Out of 62 churches 50 were destroyed, and the dead were lying everywhere. The loss of property must be reckoned by millions of francs. From this visitation Mauritius must take some time to recover. 1 1 For facts and figures see Appendix X. References : Grant's History of Mauritius, 1801. Captain Norman's Colonial France (1886). St. -Pierre's Paul and Virginia. Pike's Siibtropical Rambles, 1873. CHAPTER XIV HONG KONG HONG KONG, first ceded to Great Britain in January 1841, and finally acknowledged as a British possession by the Treaty of Nankin, 1842, provides us with an unparalleled example of the growth of British trade. The island commands a most im- portant position in the China Sea at the mouth of the Canton River, distant about forty miles from the Portuguese colony of Macao, and ninety miles from Canton, the southern capital of China. The length of the island is about eleven miles, with a breadth of from two to three miles, consisting of a broken ridge of lofty hills, the highest being Victoria Peak, 1890 feet above the level of the sea. The great feature of the island is its magnificent harbour, almost equal to that of Sydney, with an area of ten square miles. From a strategic point of view it may be called the Gibraltar of the East. Several small islets are included in the colony of Hong Kong ; and jutting into its harbour is a peninsula of the mainland of China, known as British Kowloon, four square miles in area, but a very im- portant addition, secured to the colony by Sir Harry Parkes during the Chinese War of 1856. Hong Kong, now that Port Hamilton in Quaelpaert (Corea) has been abandoned, is the most easterly British possession. Thence to Yokohama is a voyage of seven days, and from Yokohama to Vancouver is a voyage of fourteen days. To travel from Vancouver to Liverpool by rail and steamer takes another fortnight, roughly speaking ; so that in five weeks it is possible to reach Hong Kong, our furthest eastern possession, 246 Hong Kong 247 by going west across the North Atlantic, the Canadian Dominion, and the North Pacific. Half of the trade of Hong Kong is with China, and a third with India, mainly in tea, silk, and opium. Hong Kong owes a great deal to the discovery of gold in Australia, which attracted crowds of Chinese emigrants to the fields through its port. Upon what was a bare and desolate island, inhabited by a few fishermen, and separated from the mainland by a narrow strait only half a mile across, has arisen the magnificent city of Victoria, a most striking monument of the Victorian age, containing a population of 200,000 people. The trade of Hong Kong has grown in direct proportion as China has opened her gates to Western influences and external commerce. It is in telegraphic communication with the world by a cable to Shanghai and two cables to Singapore, via Saigon and Hue respectively. There is an imperial garrison of about 1300 men, towards which the colony contributes ^20,000 annually, which, considering the position of the port and its enormous trade, is a comparatively trifling sum. Sir William des Vceux has recently stated that the capacity of vessels entered and cleared at the port of Hong Kong con- siderably exceeded 13,000,000 tons in 1890, being more than the tonnage either of New York, London, or Liverpool. It is not necessary to enter here upon the causes of the Chinese War of 1857-60. For generations China, entrenched behind her defences, had manifested a resolve to have little or nothing to do with foreigners. The opium question was pushed to the forefront as the casus belli, and, undoubtedly, opinions must vary on the morality or immorality of the opium traffic ; but we must not lose sight of the main point, for what was really settled by the war of 1857-60 was whether China should retain or not her peculiar position among nations. At times, indeed, her officials seemed, from their attitude and uncompromising character, to do violence to the comity of nations. But barriers have been broken down, and the Chinese people have, upon the whole, profited by their 248 British Colonisation intercourse with the rest of the world. For the British the tangible results of the war were the opening of the Yang-tsze to navigation, with four trading ports upon it, as well as the coast ports of Chefoo, Tientsin, and Tewchwang in North China, the island of Formosa, and ports in the south, all of which have become closely associated with Hong Kong in a growing trade. This trade, we are informed by those most capable of knowing, ' will still greatly expand as restrictions to commerce are further removed by the Chinese, and as the navigation of the rivers of the empire by steamers is per- mitted, and railways and improved means of locomotion and transport generally are introduced in the country.' 1 The British occupation of Hong Kong has been very far- reaching in its effects. Springing up so quickly on the flank of the Chinese empire, and in spite of all opposition making its way to the front as a great emporium of Eastern trade, Hong Kong has been an object-lesson to Japan. The story also of the destruction of the Summer Palace of the Chinese Emperors conveyed to them the truth that England's power was paramount along the Eastern seas. Thus it was that Japan first awoke from her long sleep, welcomed Europeans, and adapted herself to European ways and customs. From another point of view Hong Kong has been ex- tremely useful. It has performed the office of a vast Chinese emigration bureau, and has been the means of dispersing Chinese labour all over the world. At the same time the Hong Kong authorities, by their special emigration ordinances, which provided that Chinese should be well cared for both going and returning, won a reputation for justice and probity, and inspired the Chinese nation with confidence in British rule. The emigrants themselves, emerging from their isolation and going out to all parts of the world as labourers in every department, learned much and profited much from the great world outside, which they had always been taught to despise. 1 Paper by Mr. William Keswick, Proceedings of the Royal Colonial Institute, 1889-90. Hong Kong 249 Each of them became, upon his return home, a kind of news- agent to his fellows, reporting upon the government, customs, and, generally speaking, just administration of the Europeans. Not unfrequently the emigrant from the Celestial Empire reversed the phrase ' Spoliis orientis onustusj and returned with the spoils of the West. A large number of Chinese have gone also through Hong Kong to the nearer and more accessible Straits Settlements, as well as to the Dutch possessions of Java and Sumatra. Hong Kong is admirably suited to be a distributing centre, and no more marvellous development has taken place than that of the native junk trade. The public works of this vast emporium are on a scale commensurate with its importance. There are docks and large engineering works, so that the largest vessel afloat can be refitted and repaired. Janus-like, it looks both ways, east and west, and is at once a depot, arsenal, mart, emigration centre, and the meeting-place of all nations. The European population is about 3000, consisting mainly of merchants and officials. British rule is popular with the Chinese, although the task of government has been often con- ducted under singularly embarrassing circumstances. The administration of law in an island close to China, where official life is so stereotyped in itself and so utterly different from our own, has often been beset with difficulties. Hong Kong is so accessible and easy a refuge that it has been almost impossible to prevent it becoming a kind of Alsatia for the Chinese criminals ; the population itself is of a migratory character, and therefore it has been out of the question to depend much upon a permanent public opinion amongst Chinese residents themselves in favour of British law. The police force of 750 men, consists of British chiefly Scotsmen, Sikhs, and Chinamen ; and, notwithstanding all the difficul- ties in the way, it cannot but be considered a triumph of administration that this migratory population of nearly 200,000 are kept so easily in order. 1 1 For facts and figures see Appendix XI. 250 British Colonisation THE STRAITS SETTLEMENTS. At one time the trade to be carried on in Further India and amongst the islands of the Malay Archipelago attracted the attention of Europeans more than the trade of the great Indian peninsula. Whilst Englishmen were barely able to feel their way at Surat, Agra, and the domain of the Great Mogul, they had developed a fairly lucrative business in Borneo, Sumatra, and Java. In the reign of James i. English mer- chant-venturers traded with several ports in those seas ; and the experience learned here enabled them to prosecute their efforts along the banks of the Hooghly, thus laying the foundations of the great city of Calcutta. It is said that the wreck of a Portuguese Indiaman on the English coast, the Mother of God, a vessel of 1600 tons, found to contain a cargo of Eastern produce worth ;i 50,000 when towed into Dartmouth, first turned the attention of British merchants to a direct trade with Further India. On the last day of the sixteenth century Queen Elizabeth granted a charter to George, Earl of Cumberland, and two hundred and fifteen knights, aldermen, and merchants to set forth to the East Indies ' at their own cost and charges.' The voyage of Captain Lancaster and the establishment of British factories at Acheen and Bantam were its first-fruits. There was a long struggle for supremacy in the Spice Islands viz. Amboyna and the Moluccas between English and Dutch. The Dutch had supplanted the Spaniards and Portuguese in Eastern waters, and in 1620 they drove us from the Spice Islands, and in 1683 from Bantam and Jakatra in Java. The Dutch used to proclaim themselves ' Lords of the Southern Seas/ a fact alluded to by Pepys in his Diary (February 15, 1663-4): 'showing scorn to the English,' and even beating them out of Surat, ' our only factory there.' The notable Amboyna massacre (1623) has already been alluded to, and it continued to be a source of irritation against the Dutch the greater part of the seventeenth century. The Straits Settlements 251 Expelled from Bantam, Englishmen succeeded in establishing themselves in Bencoolen in 1685, their 'sole and humble object being to secure a share in the pepper trade.' It was at Bencoolen that William Dampier remained for some time in 1690, acting as gunner of the English fort there. Little by little England asserted her influence in these waters, the power of Holland being on the wane. Penang was occupied, by orders of the Indian Government, under Sir John Macpherson, in 1786; Malacca was taken from the Dutch by an expedition sent from India in 1795 > Singapore was acquired by cession from the Malays in 1819 by Sir Stamford Raffles, acting under the authority of the Marquis of Hastings, Governor-General of India. It will be seen, there- fore, that the Straits Settlements grew, in the first place, out of our Indian empire ; in fact, they were all Indian colonies, and until April i, 1867, were administered from Calcutta and supported for years by the Indian taxpayer. It may be noted that at the beginning of this century, during the occupation of the Netherlands by the French, the Dutch colonies fell into our hands, and a British fleet under Lord Minto took Java and its dependencies. The result of Napoleonic campaigns in Europe was to strengthen and extend our rule in many outlying parts of the world. The Cape fell into our hands very much for the same reasons as Java and the Dutch settlements in Further India. During the present century British power has been destined to grow. Just as the corollary of our success in India has been the acquisition, little by little, of coigns of vantage in Further India, to the exclusion of other nations, so these coigns of vantage have led up to spheres of territorial influ- ence protected States in the Malay Peninsula and in Borneo. England might have swept Holland out of these seas alto- gether at the beginning of this century, after the Napoleonic wars, had she so wished it ; but, knowing that the extension of her Eastern trade was essential to Holland's position in Europe as an European Power, she restored to her what she had 252 British Colonisation already taken. But Holland has been unable to grow like England. British influence is spreading far beyond the limits of the actual trade centres. A few facts will prove how it has grown. Here, as elsewhere, the Pax Britannica has worked marvels. In 1872-3 civil wars were going on both in Perak and Selangor, the cause of dispute being the collection of re- venue derivable from the tin-mines. In Perak there was a further complication between the Chinese factions, who were fighting for the mines of Larut. The time came for active British interference, and, acting under the instructions of Lord Kimberley, Sir Andrew Clarke took steps to put a stop to the existing confusion. So little opposition was there on the part of the Malays that the Sultans of Perak and Selangor asked in 1874 that British residents might be associated with them in the government of their respective States. In 1875 Sungei Ujong, a small State to the south of Selan- gor, possessing a rather unmanageable Chinese element, accepted a British resident. In 1883 Governor Sir Frederick Weld induced the group of small States lying between Sungei Ujong, Pahang, Malacca, and Johor (called the Negri Sembilan, or the Nine States) to confederate, and to conduct their government under the advice and with the assistance of a British officer. In 1888, in pursuance of an agreement between Sir Cecil Clementi Smith, the present Governor of the Straits Settle- ments, and the Sultan, Pahang, a large State on the east coast of the peninsula, was added to the number of the protected States, and its administration assisted by the appointment of a British resident. British influence does not stop here, but is gradually being spread over the whole Malay Peninsula. Such are the steps by which England has extended her influence in Further India. Her present position is not the result of a preconceived policy, the original intention of the The Straits Settlements 253 Indian Governor-Generals having been to limit rather than to extend her sway. In 1837 an Indian official wrote to Lord Auckland on the subject of the * Strait Settlement,' as it was called : * These details may appear to your Lordship to be petty ; but then everything connected with these Settlements is petty, except their annual surplus cost to the Government of India.' Apropos of this depreciatory statement, Mr. Maxwell remarked in a paper read before the Royal Colonial Insti- tute in December 1891 : 'It is amusing to recall an official remark of this kind now in 1891, when the colony of the Straits Settlements, with a history of twenty-four years of independent existence as a Crown Colony, may, in spite of recent temporary reverses, fairly claim to be the most pro- sperous of all the Crown colonies, having a revenue of four and a half million dollars, surplus assets at the begin- ning of 1891 of two and a half million dollars, and no public debt.' There is no doubt that the acquisition of Hong Kong and the influence England has been able to bring to bear upon the Chinese, who are met with everywhere, has greatly strengthened our position in the whole of the Malay Peninsula, Borneo, and elsewhere. The Chinese have come to under- stand and appreciate our methods of trade, our government, and our customs. Much as the Chinese despise all barbarians, they appear at any rate to mix with their general contempt a certain feeling of respect for England and England's methods. Perhaps there is no nation in the world that could have broken down Chinese prejudices better than England no nation on the whole more conciliatory and regardful of Chinese prejudices, saving and excepting certain blots. England's methods of trade are more open and generous than those of other nations. As already pointed out, the junk trade has developed quickly under the system of free ports. It is a curious thing that the Dutch up to recent times should have failed altogether to conciliate the Acheen 254 British Colonisation native power. The French have had a fair start in Chinese waters, and hold territorially a large empire in close proximity to our own. The French were associated with ourselves in the Chinese War, and indirectly'we have reaped from their presence a good many of our trade advantages. The greater the extent of French dominion, the more, apparently, the British thrive. It is with Hong Kong and Singapore that the French colony has its principal trade, and the more complete the pacification of Annam and Tonquin the greater the prospects of the English ports. Certainly the French endeavour to force an exclusively French trade upon their dependencies by differ- ential duties ; but this policy is, according to some, detrimental to their own best interests, and ' does more to keep the people estranged from their new rulers than even the presence of much that reminds them of their old sovereigns.' Captain Norman, in his work on Colonial France, has remarked that 'of the imports from France a very large proportion consisted in 1882 of articles for the use and sub- sistence of the troops, of munitions of war, or material for the construction of public works in fact, Government goods. Of the exports, which have now reached the respectable total of two million one hundred thousand pounds, rice formed the major portion upwards of one and a half million pounds' worth of that commodity having been exported. Here again we find France and the French colonies aiding little in the commercial development of Cochin China the \ total value of rice sent to French possessions amounting only to ^1749, whilst the British colony of Hong Kong imported ^"1,248,260 worth.' The British administration of the Indian peninsula has rightly called forth the enthusiastic appreciation of the world ; and the machinery of government there is a most wonderful study. Less is known, and less is said, of the administration of Further India and the Malay Archipelago ; yet here, too, Englishmen can point to triumphs and successes. The Straits Settlements 255 Administrators like Sir Hugh Low, who had won great success in dealing with the Malay races in Sarawak under Rajah Brooke, and in Labuan, have, by the honourable fulfil- ment of their duties as residents in the Malay Peninsula, quieted down disturbances such, indeed, as arose after the murder of Mr. Birch and introduced law and order into the country. One example of this will suffice. Under Sir Hugh Low the revenue of Perak advanced from 312,000 dollars in 1877 to 1,435,000 dollars in 1884. Thaiping is the principal town of Perak, and is the centre of a rich tin-mining district. Here law and order are preserved by a well-drilled Malay police force, and by a magnificent Sikh force of infantry artillery with mountain-guns and a few cavalry. This Sikh force is very popular in India, and might be indefinitely enlarged. Indians also swarm to the Straits Settlements, as they do to every place where the British flag flies or where the appeal to English justice lies. Speaking more particularly, the Straits Settlements consist of: (i) Singapore; (2) the island of Penang, with part of the mainland covering an area of 270 square miles; (3) the Bindings, with the island of Pangkor; (4) Malacca; (5) Christmas Island, situated in the Indian Ocean, in lat. 10 30' S., long. 105 40' E. The city of Singapore or Singapura, ' the City of the Lion,' has a long history, being founded in 1160. De Barros alludes to it as a resort of navigators from India, Siam, China, and of the many thousand islands that lie towards the east. It seems, however to have fallen into decay until taken over by Sir Stamford Raffles in 1819. Since then a city of about 150,000 has arisen, of which more than 90,000 are Chinese, 24,000 Malay, 13,000 Indian, about 3000 Europeans and Americans, with a military force. 1 There are twenty-five nationalities enumerated in the census. As a coaling centre Singapore is of the very highest importance, fully 300,000 tons being kept there, i Paper by Sir Frederick Weld, Governor of the Straits Settlements, read before the Fellows of the Royal Colonial Institute, 1883-4. 256 British Colonisation with plenty of hands to coal. The colony is said by Sir Frederick Weld to have an ample revenue and large surplus assets, is unencumbered by debt, and is free from vexatious frontier wars. The exports and imports are about ^"40,000,000, and Singapore is a depot for the outlying islands ; for although Java lies half way, yet, owing to the restrictive policy of the Dutch colony, whilst Singapore has free trade, the English merchant is able to carry his commerce far afield and supply countries as far as Tonquin on the north and Australia on the south. Here as elsewhere the Chinese are the great labour pioneers of the country. According to some close observers, it is certain that the Chinese will in course of time fill Tonquin, Cochin China, and overrun the Malay Peninsula. In the Straits Settlements they are book-keepers, clerks, and labourers, and they can work in any climate. They will probably effect what the Malay Rajahs have not yet done for Malaya, i.e. clear the jungle, exploit the mines, and open up the whole country. Singapore has been described as the centre of a sea area over which passes British trade to the value of some 250 millions sterling. Yet, until quite recently, both Singapore and Hong Kong were comparatively defenceless. Had a war broken out six or eight years ago enormous interests might have been imperilled. Here, however, matters have been placed on a more satisfactory footing. The colony itself has been called upon to contribute ^"100,000 a year for military defences, together with ^60,000 for barracks. The annual contribution is at the rate of 33. 6d. per head of the population, whilst in the United Kingdom the charge is i6s. per head. The colonists, therefore, of the Straits Settlements cannot be said to be unfairly taxed. 1 Considering the number of the European population, which is only about 3000 or 4000, the revenue, which in 1888 amounted to nearly four million dollars, or ^800,000, is proportionately large. Penang, or ' Pulau Pinang,' the equivalent for ' Betel-nut Island,' is situated 360 miles north of Singapore, and is next i See Lord Brassey's speech in the House of Lords, July 24, 1891. The Straits Settlements 257 to it in importance. Formerly it was occupied in 1786 by Captain Light. The capital of the island of Penang is Georgetown. Facing the mainland is the province of Wellesley, separated by a strait about two miles in width. Penang carries on a brisk trade with Perak and other native States, and also with Sumatra ; but the Acheenese War and the restrictive policy of the Netherlands Indian Government hinder its trade with the Dutch colony. . The Bindings territory, lying south of Penang, includes the island of Pankor and part of the continent. Geographically it forms part of Perak, and the Superintendent acts under the Resident of this country. Here also is a magnificent harbour, with a population of about 2000. It produces tin, timber, and ebony. For a Power which, like Great Britain, holds the command of the ocean, these islands, such as Hong Kong, off China, Singapore, Penang, and Pankor, off the Malay Peninsula, are obviously most valuable possessions. They are placed most advantageously for offence and defence as strategic points, whilst for the purposes of commerce and trade they fulfil for the Eastern seas what Venice of old did for Europe. Malacca is the third province of the colony proper, and is also under a Resident Councillor. This part of the Straits Settlements is less busy than Singapore or Penang, and is the centre of a quiet Malay life. Malacca has a long history. It was founded shortly after the fall of old Singapore by a Javanese Rajah, who had usurped the throne of Singapura. It rose quickly to a considerable prosperity, but was conquered in 1511 by the Portuguese. When Albuquerque was there, it is said that the Sultan, Mahomed Shah, brought an army of 60,000 men against him. Large fleets and reinforcements came over from Acheen, and the Portuguese authority never seems to have extended far beyond the limits of the settlement. The Dutch took Malacca from the Portuguese in 1641, and the English took it from the Dutch in 1795. It was returned, however, by England to Holland in 1818, and was finally ceded to us by R 258 British Colonisation treaty in 1824 in exchange for our Sumatra possessions. Malacca is described as a quaint old town, where the remains of the Jesuit Church of Santa Maria della Monte, defaced by the Dutch and called St. Paul's, are an interesting object to the visitor. Within it lay for a time the remains of St. Francis Xavier before they were taken to Goa. 1 BRITISH NORTH BORNEO. The success attending the colonies of Hong Kong and the Straits Settlements prompted the idea that portions of Borneo, which forms the largest of the whole group of islands stretch- ing from the Philippines to Australia, over 40 of longitude, might be brought under British influence. The value of this country had long been known, and Captain Daniel Blackman, in his account of his voyage to Borneo in 1714, alludes to the existence of a flourishing trade with China. At the initiative, therefore, of some energetic Englishmen, the task of Borneo colonisation was seriously taken up, and the British North Borneo Company formed in November 1881. The area ac- quired extends over 30,000 square miles, and, as all the islands are included, Borneo occupies an important position in the China seas. According to the best authorities, this protectorate may be developed best by means of Chinese labour. Both Americans and Australians have agreed to exclude the Chinese from their shores as being unwelcome competitors in the labour market ; but there appears to be no reason why the Mongolians should not be employed to develop the resources of such a land as Borneo, lying close to their doors. Sir Richard Temple has stated that, man for man, the Chinaman is 50 per cent, better than the Indiaman as a labourer. Such auxiliaries, therefore, may be impressed into the service of the Borneo Company with advantage. Already the nucleus of a small police force has been formed, the Sultan of Brunei may possibly come under the British protectorate, and, as the i For facts and figures see Appendix XII. Borneo and Labuan 259 present Governor of British North Borneo is also Consul- General of Sarawak and Acting Consul of Labuan, a consolida- tion of British interests may not unreasonably be expected to take place. The progress of North Borneo deserves to be watched narrowly, as here too is a possible germ of British power. 1 LABUAN. Labuan is a very insignificant British colony, and is an island situated about six miles off the north-west coast of Borneo, distant about thirty miles from Brunei, the capital of Borneo proper. The island was ceded by the Sultan of Borneo in 1847, being then uninhabited. The first Governor was Sir James Brooke. The island was believed to possess profitable coal-mines, but this has been discovered not to be the case. 2 From the few sketches given above of the British Colonies some idea may be gained of their history, resources, and general character. Not the least interesting part of the story is to understand how we first gained a foot-hold in each place, and how we either conquered or succeeded to the great heri- tage. Collectively this heritage may be termed ' our second colonial empire,' and it provides us with a wonderfully diver- sified record of enterprise and adventure in every conceivable part of the globe. At one time we seem to be following the footsteps of our explorers, pioneers, and backwoodsmen in the snowy wastes of the great North-West of Canada ; at another to the dark, remote sources of a great river like the fabled Orinoco, mysterious Nile, or Niger ; at another over the burning Sahara-like wastes of Australia ; at another to the Alpine solitudes of some Antipodean mountain ; at another to the deep forest solitudes, such as those of British Honduras or Burmah or Borneo : men venturing both life and limb, and on hopes more forlorn at times than those of the ' deadly, immi- nent breach.' No matter where the land is, or what the climate 1 For facts and figures see Appendix XIII. See Appendix XIV. 260 British Colonisation is, there the British explorer and hunter is found. Surely he has for generations encompassed the ends of the world, seen its limits, and laid bare its most hidden secrets. Then, if we follow the course of those who have gone down to the sea in ships and have occupied their business in great waters, we seem to picture our sailors, now in the tumbling ice-fields of the North in Hudson or in Baffin Bay, seeking the El Dorados of the East by the North- West Passage ; now fishing off the stormy banks of Newfoundland ; now in the Antipodes following the huge whales of the South on either side of the South American continent, and calling forth by their exploits the wonder and admiration of the great Burke ; now coasting along the sultry coasts of Guinea ; now in the South Pacific, anchoring off palm-fringed tropic islands ; now in the Far East, as buccaneers or traders following in the wake of Spaniard, Frenchman, and ' Portingals,' and ending by driving all these competitors from these marts, and making the highways of ocean their own. Ever and always there is the picture of the British tar holding aloft the flag of successful enterprise. It has been said that the epics of adventure are over, and that the prose work of administration and settlement has begun ; but what pages of national daring and hardihood to brood over, what thrilling episodes to remember, what tales to unfold ! It must be a callous breast that is unmoved by the recital of England's great exploits by sea and land. Yet we often forget what the result of all this is. It is England's second colonial empire. This empire is the climax of our struggles, the sum and crown of our endeavours, the chief boast of patriots, the prop of our wealth, without which England would sink into insignificance. Nevertheless, it is certain that the popular imagination does not apprehend, in any adequate degree, the immmsa majestas of this British colonial empire ; its story is neglected, its glories are hidden, its trophies are as unknown as the waters in which they have been won. The very story of exploration is left unexplored by the callous legatees of the priceless heritage. Conclusion 261 Still, the trophies must remain and be a national glory, especially the trophies of successful native administration. In the West Indies, on the coasts of West Africa, in Kaffraria, in British Borneo, in Malaya, and in many Pacific islands, British administration has been humane, enlightened, and a signal success. No proud proconsuls of former days have ever won for Rome more enduring laurels than the numerous English governors and administrators have won for England, who, clad in broadcloth and undistinguished by pomp and ceremony, and to look at simple, unassuming English gentle- men, wield the rod of empire. West Africans, Kaffirs, Chinese, Japanese, Malays, all recognise their sway and bend before their words. Together with the Pax Britannica, England introduces the Lex Britannica and the Lingua Britannica, and the passport of an Englishman takes him further now than ever. Can England rest from her world-wide task, and pause in her cfareer? It would seem that this is impossible. What, in the first place, would become of those native races in Africa and Asia and elsewhere who, whilst they have received from us the arts of peace, have forgotten the arts of war ? At one time Kaffirs and Malays could dare to resist all comers ; Eng- land has broken down their opposition, and must now protect them. Otherwise they will be the easy prey of the 'first enemy. If England pacifies, she must to a certain extent emasculate. It is clear to the most casual observer that England's empire, lying athwart the world in both hemispheres, is open at many places to hostile attack. To organise and to defend must be her duty. Come what will, she must hold command of the sea, in conjunction, it may be hoped, with all loyal and patriotic colonists. In the future it must be clear that the most important questions for England will be colonial ques- tions, and a study of these is imperatively necessary for a generation that has stepped into this wonderful heritage of 'a second colonial empire.' Imperial Federation is the question of the hour. Far from 262 British Colonisation being exhausted, this attractive theme grows more interesting day by day. We are really only in limine ipso of the whole discussion. What the ultimate form, politically speaking, of a confederated British empire may be matters not at present. Out of a carefully nourished sentiment co-operation may come, and out of the co-operation of England and her colonies a consolidated empire strong, if may be hoped, for the extension of peace and liberty alone may arise, which will be the greatest as it is the most widely spread that the world has yet seen. APPENDICES References : The Colonial Office List, 1891. The Australian Handbook, 1891 (Gordon and Gotch). The Seven Colonies of Australasia. By T. A. Coghlan, Government Statistician of New South Wales. 1892. Her Majesty's Colonies, 1886. A series of original papers issued under the Royal Commission (Colonial and Indian Exhibition). Proceedings of the Royal Colonial Institute, passim. Report of the Director of the Census of the Cape of Good Hope, 1891. Census of Canada, 1891. Issued by the Department of Agriculture, Ottawa. Bulletin No. I. and following. Special Edition of the Year- Book of New South Wales. Prepared for the New South Wales Government. 1892. Statistical Register of Victoria, 1890. Synopsis of the Tariffs and Trade of the British Empire, by Sir R. W. Rawson. Sequel to the Synopsis. By the same Author, APPENDICES FACTS AND FIGURES I. THE WEST INDIES. SECTION A. JAMAICA. Area. 4193 square miles, being 144 miles in length and 49 in breadth. Divisions. The island is divided into (i) the county of Surrey, with the parishes of Kingston, St. Andrew, St. Thomas, Portland ; (2) Middlesex, with the parishes of St. Catherine, St. Mary, Clar- endon, St. Anne, Manchester ; (3) Cornwall, with the parishes of St. Elizabeth, Trelawny, St. James, Hanover, Westmoreland. Physical Features. Jamaica is very mountainous, especially on the east side, where the Blue Mountains rise to more than 7000 feet. Water is very abundant in the island, and the largest rivers are the Black River, the Rio Grande, the Plantain Garden River, the Martha, and the Cobre. In their general character they are rapid and turbulent, flowing quickly into the sea, and none are navigable. The coast-line is greatly broken up, and the two main harbours are Old Harbour and Kingston Harbour. Jamaica has a great variety of climate, the lowlands being warm but the highlands cool and healthy. Population. 1881, 508,804; 1891, 639,491. Chief Towns. Kingston, the capital, with Port-Royal, the naval station (48,504) ; Spanish Town (8000) ; Linstead ; Mandeville, in Manchester ; Newcastle, the military headquarters ; Falmouth ; Montego. Government. As it now stands, the Governor, nominated in England, is assisted by a Privy Council not to exceed eight, and by a Legislative Council of nine elected members, four ex officio members, and five nominated members in addition to the Governor. The total number of voters is about 25,000. The colony has passed through four systems of government : (i) that of military rule, 265 266 British Colonisation 1655 ; (2) the period of General Assemblies, lasting with modifi- cations for 200 years ; (3) Crown government, beginning after the servile wars, 1866, the Legislature consisting entirely of official and nominated members ; (4) in 1884, the mixed system of official and elected members, such as is now in force. Trade. Total imports (1891-92), .1,759,890. Exports, ,1,722,096. 'With regard to the distribution of trade, Jamaica imported (1872-86) 53 per cent, from the United Kingdom. It exported 5 5 per cent, to foreign countries and 38 per cent, to the United Kingdom. The trade with the other West Indies, Mauri- tius, the East Indies, and Australasia amounted to 14 per cent, of the imports and 7 per cent, of the exports.' * Products. Sugar and rum represent nearly 50 per cent, of the products. Coffee, cocoa, pimento (the all-spice tree), tobacco, ginger, arrowroot, such fruits as bananas, coco-nuts, oranges, are grown largely and with profit. Revenue. 1891-92, ^778,615. Expenditure, ,781,883. Public Debt. In 1891 the public debt was ^1,520,087. Public Works. The harbours of Jamaica are the greatest of the public works. There are 74^ miles of railway. The main line runs from Kingston westward to Porus, with a branch running north to Ewarton. There are good roads everywhere. Telegraph stations and post-offices are established in every town and nearly every village of importance. Defence Forces. An Imperial garrison at Up Park Camp of 950 men, and a station at Port-Royal. There is also a volunteer militia force of 600 officers and men and a constabulary of 693 sub-officers and men. The West India Regiment has already been noticed. Communication. Distance from England is 5000 miles, the length of voyage 17 days. Jamaica is 540 miles from Colon and the Isthmus of Panama, a position that would enhance its value in case the Panama Canal were opened. SECTION B. BARBADOS. Area. 166 square miles, being 21 miles long and 14 broad. Divisions. The island is divided into eleven parishes : (i) St. Lucy's, (2) St. Peter's, (3) St. James's, (4) St. Michael's, (5) St. 1 Sequel to Tariffs and Trade of the British Empire, by Sir R. W. Rawson. In 1891, imports from United Kingdom ^862, 345 ; exports to, 562,913. Appendices 267 Philip's, (6) Christchurch, (7) St. George's, (8) St. John's, (9) St. Thomas's, (10) St. Joseph's, (11) St. Andrew's. Physical Features. The island is almost entirely surrounded by coral reefs. There are no very high mountains, the highest being Mount Hillaby, 1104 feet. The prevailing wind is the north-east, which brings moisture and turns the windmills. The soil is porous, and as the ground has been carefully cultivated for generations there is no miasma. Population. 1881, 171,860; 1891, 182,322. Chief Towns. Bridgetown (the capital), 21,000; Speighstown. Government. As it now stands, the government is carried on by (i) a Governor; (2) a Legislative Council, consisting of nine members appointed by the Queen ; (3) a House of Assembly of twenty-four members, elected annually on the basis of a moderate franchise. Barbados, which was governed at one time in connec- tion with the Windward Islands, became a separate colony in 1885. Trade. Total imports, 1891, ,1,067,617. Exports, 814,254. 'With regard to the distribution of its trade, Barbados took (1872- 1886) 35 per cent, of imports from the United Kingdom, 22 per cent, from British possessions, chiefly North America, India, British West Indies, and Guiana, and 43 per cent, from foreign countries. It exported 34 per cent, to the United Kingdom, 27 per cent, to British possessions, chiefly British North America, West Indies, and British Guiana, and 39 per cent, to foreign countries, almost exclusively to the United States.' x Products. Sugar is the chief product. There are also a few plantations and some maize fields. In former days indigo, ginger, and aloes were grown. Revenue. 1891, ^163,905. Expenditure, ^176,800. Public Debt. 1 89 1 , 30, 100. Defence Forces. Barbados is the headquarters of the military force in the West Indies. The Imperial garrison consists of 43 officers and 765 non-commissioned officers and men. Communication. Barbados is the first port of call from England, being 3635 miles distant. The voyage takes 12 to 13 days. SECTION C. TRINIDAD. Area. 1754 square miles. Divisions. The island is divided into eight counties : (i) St. 1 In 1891, imports from United Kingdom .432,636 ; exports to, 74,605. 268 British Colonisation George, (2) St. David, (3) Caroni, (4) St. Andrew, (5) Victoria, (6) Nariva, (7) St. Patrick, (8) Mayaro. Population. 1891, 200,028. Chief Towns. Port of Spain (31,858), San Fernando (6335), Princestown, Arima. Government. Trinidad, with which is included Tobago, is a Crown colony. The Governor is assisted by an Executive Council of three members. The Legislative Council numbers eighteen, eight being officials, and the rest nominated by the Crown for a period of five years. Trade. Imports (1891), ,2,096,797. Exports, ,2,058,761. 1 With regard to the distribution of her trade, Trinidad imported (1872-86) 29 per cent, from the United Kingdom, n per cent.'from British possessions viz. Canada, West Indies, Guiana, and the East Indies and 60 per cent, from foreign countries, chiefly Venezuela and France. The colony exported 53 per cent, to the United Kingdom, only 2 per cent, to the West Indies and British Guiana, and 45 per cent, to foreign countries, of which more than half went to the United States and the remainder chiefly to Vene- zuela and France.' 1 Products. Sugar, the most important ; cocoa, said to be the best in the world ; tobacco, a very old industry in Trinidad ; asphalt from the Pitch Lake at La Brea ; Angostura bitters ; and fruit, much of which is shipped to New York. Revenue. 1891, ,488,219. Expenditure, ,490,422. Public Debt. 1891, ,520,420. Public Works. Railways, in all 54^ miles, connecting Port of Spain with Arima and the east and with Claxton Bay via St. Joseph and the south. There are 63 miles of telegraph. Communication. Between Port of Spain and San Fernando, the two principal ports, distance 32 miles by water and 42 by road, there is excellent communication by steamer and railway. SECTION D. TOBAGO. Area. 114 square miles. Population. 1891, 18,387. Chief Towns. Scarborough (1370), Plymouth. Government. Tobago is represented in the Council of Trinidad by one official and one unofficial member. 1 In 1891, imports from United Kingdom ,777, 658 ; exports to, ^728,998. Appendices 269 Trade. Imports (1891), .23,945. Exports, ^24,241. 'Tobago imported (1872-86) 53 per cent, from the United Kingdom and 46 per cent, from Barbados. It exported 69 per cent, to the United Kingdom, 16 per cent, to Barbados, and 15 per cent, to the United States and French West Indies.' l Products. Sugar is the main article of export. Cocoa, arrow- root, coffee, sisal hemp, tobacco. Revenue. 1890, 8730. Expenditure, 8783. Communication. There is no telegraph cable. Plymouth, the port, is reached from Bridgetown, Barbados. SECTION E. BRITISH GUIANA. Area. About 109,000 square miles, but when the boundary dispute with Venezuela is settled it will probably extend over 1 20,000 square miles. Divisions. The colony is divided into the counties of (i) Deme- rara, (2) Essequibo, (3) Berbice. Physical Features. There are two great parallel mountain sys- tems crossing the colony fiom west to east, the greater being that of the Pacaraima and Merume Mountains, and the lesser the Canucu, Camucumu, and Coratamung Mountains. The chief rivers are the Essequibo, the Demerara, the Berbice, the Maza- runi, Cuyuni, and Corentyn. The upper course of the Demerara is unknown. There is much to explore in British Guiana. For twenty miles inland there is a succession of sandhills, and the coasts are covered with mangrove and courida bushes. Population. 1891, 278,328, of whom one-third were Indian immigrants. Chief Towns. Georgetown (47,816), New Amsterdam (8907). Government. A Governor and a Court of Policy of fifteen members, seven official and eight elected by the colonists. This Court of Policy is an unique institution, being inherited from the Dutch. Its functions correspond to those of the Legislative Councils in the other West Indian colonies. But it has no power of taxation. This power rests with the Combined Court, which is the Court of Policy plus six financial representatives elected by the people. The Roman-Dutch law still survives in the colony. Both at the Cape and Ceylon the Dutch law, Courts of Policy, 1 The 1891 returns not available. 270 British Colonisation fiscals, etc., were found, but they disappeared, to a great extent, with British occupation. Trade. Imports (1891), 1,707,770. Exports, .2,532,554. 1 With regard to the distribution of trade, British Guiana imported (1872-86) 49 per cent, from the United Kingdom, 23 per cent, from British possessions of which more than half was from the East Indies, the rest from Canada and the West Indies and 28 per cent, from foreign countries, chiefly the United States. It exported 72 per cent, to the United Kingdom, 5 per cent, to the West Indies and Canada, and 23 per cent, chiefly to the United States and foreign West Indies, with a small quantity to Portugal and Holland. 3 1 Products. Sugar, which forms 82 per cent, of the whole exports. Out of 94,000 acres in cultivation, 79,000 are given to sugar. Rum, molasses, coffee, cocoa-nut, timber, and gold are also produced. Revenue. 1890 to March 1891,^522,767. Expenditure, ,508,108. Public Debt. 1891, 735,429. Public Works. A line of railway, 21 miles in length, from Georgetown to Mahaica. There are 260 miles of telegraphs. Communication. Georgetown is 4coo miles distant from South- ampton. The voyage takes 1 3 to 15 days. SECTION F. BRITISH HONDURAS. Area. 7562 square miles. Divisions. The colony is divided into five districts : (i) Belize, (2) the northern, combining Corosal and Orange Walk, (3) the Cayo, (4) Stann Creek, (5) Toledo. Physical Features. Along the coast are large swamp- lands ; beyond are the terraces known as Pine Ridge, Cohune Ridge so called from the Cohune palm and Broken Ridge. The hills rise from 500 to 4000 feet on the west. The rivers are the Belize, Hondo, and New River. Population. 1891, 31,471. Chief Towns. Belize (5767), Orange Walk, Stann Creek, Punta Gorda. Government. British Honduras is a Crown colony administered by a Governor and a Legislative Council consisting of five official and not less than four unofficial members. It may be noted that 1 In 1891, imports from United Kingdom ^927, 397 ; exports to, ,1,220,518. Appendices 27 1 the first settlers from 1638 to 1786 managed their own affairs, and their customs were ratified and known as ' Burnaby's Laws ' (1756), Admiral Burnaby having been sent out to the colony, together with the celebrated Captain Cook of Pacific fame, to examine and report upon the state of the country. Trade. Imports, 1891, 272,355. Exports, .280,521. 'Be- tween 1872-86 the colony imported 43 per cent, from the United Kingdom and 57 per cent, from foreign countries, chiefly United States, Central America, and Mexico. It exported 58 per cent, to the United Kingdom and 42 per cent, to foreign countries.' 1 Products. Mahogany, logwood, sugar, cedar, rosewood, fruit. Revenue. 1891, ,52,528. Expenditure, ^45,270. Ptiblic Debt. 1891, 17,000. Communication. The principal communication between Europe and British Honduras is vid New Orleans, from which place it is 600 miles distant. There is no submarine cable connecting the colony with the outside world, nor are there any railways. SECTION G. THE LEEWARD ISLANDS. Area. 704 square miles. Divisions. Five presidencies. I. Dominica. Area. 291 square miles. Physical Features. Very mountainous. It is the loftiest of the Lesser Antilles. From the sea its aspect is very striking : bold headlands in the foreground, alternating with deep ravines or open valleys ; at the back, irregular masses of dark-wooded mountains reaching up to the clouds. The highest peak is Morne Diabloten (5314 feet). The coast-line is deeply indented. The rainfall of the island is high, averaging 75 inches annually. Population. 1881, 28,211 ; 1891, 26,841. Chief Towns. Roseau, the capital, on the south-west ; St. Joseph. Government. The local Government is administered by a Presi- dent and a Legislative Assembly of fourteen members, seven nomi- nated and seven elected. The President has a casting vote. This 1 In 1891, imports from United Kingdom 119,257; exports to, 154,619. 272 British Colonisation local Government is subordinate to the Federal or General Legis- lature. Trade. Imports (1891), ,60,780. Exports, ,38,910. 'Domi- nica imported (1872-86) about equal quantities from the United Kingdom and foreign countries, chiefly the United States and French West Indies, and 23 per cent, from the West Indies, chiefly Barbados. It exported 25 per cent, to the United Kingdom and 72 per cent, to the United States. In 1891 Dominica imported ,28,368 from United Kingdom, and exported to it 2 1,094. Products. Cocoa, sugar, coffee, maize, cotton, tobacco, molasses, rum, lime-juice, fruit, woods. Revenue. 1891, .21,533. Expenditure, 24,937. Public Debt. 1891, 40,900. Communication. Roseau has an open roadstead, and is 4000 miles from London. It is visited by the ' Royal Mail ' and other steamers. A good deal of the traffic of the island is carried on by means of boats. Until lately the roads of the interior have been in a bad state, but ^30,000 has been expended on bridges and repairs. II. Montserrat. Area. 47 square miles. Physical Features. The surface is broken up into rocky hills and ridges culminating in several high peaks not exceeding 3000 feet. It is of volcanic origin. The higher slopes are covered with thick forests. Population.- i^i, 10,087; '891, 11,762. Chief Town. Plymouth, 1400. Government. A President and Council of six, all nominated, and half sitting ex officio. Trade. Imports (1891), ,25,846. Exports, .24,339. ' In 1872-1886 Montserrat imported a third from the United Kingdom, 55 per cent, from Canada and other West Indian islands, chiefly Antigua, St. Kitts, and Barbados, and 12 per cent, from foreign countries, chiefly the United States. It exported 22 per cent, to the United Kingdom, 8 per cent, to British possessions, and 70 per cent, to foreign countries, chiefly the United States.' 1 Products. Sugar, limes, lime-juice, arrowroot, banana, coffee, cacao. Revenue. 1891, 6526. Expenditure, 7303. Public Debt. 1891, ^8300. 1 In 1891, imports from United Kingdom 9396 ; exports to, 10,779. Appendices 273 III. Antigua. Area. 108 square miles. Divisions. The Presidency of Antigua consists of (i) Antigua ; (2) Barbuda, an island of 62 square miles, and producing salt and phosphate of lime ; (3) Redonda, a bold rocky islet, about a mile long, rising 1000 feet, and noted for its phosphate of alumina. Physical Features. Compared with Dominica, the surface is comparatively flat, the hills not reaching 2000 feet. The highlands are dry and uncultivated, the lowlands are covered with cane-fields. The Antigua soils are nowhere very deep, but are very fertile. The annual rainfall is about 45 inches, about one-half of that of Dominica. Population. 1881, 34,964 ; 1891, 36,699. Chief Towns St. John (10,000), the capital ; Falmouth, on the south coast ; Parham, on the north-east. Government. Antigua is the seat of the Federal Government, which consists of a Central Council of twenty members, ten of whom are elected by the unofficial members of the local legislative bodies, four are ex officio members, and six others are nominated by the Crown. With regard to the local Legislature, there is a Legislative Council of twenty-four members, of whom twelve are elected and twelve nominees of the Crown. Trade. Imports (189 1), ,167,110. Exports, ,157,463. 'Antigua imported equal quantities from the United Kingdom and foreign countries, chiefly the United States, with 14 per cent, from British North America and the West Indies. It exported 17 per cent, to the United Kingdom, 16 per cent, to Canada and the West Indies, and 67 per cent, to foreign countries, chiefly the United States.' J Products. The chief product is sugar about 102 estates turn out annually 12,000 hogsheads rum, molasses, pine-apples, and fruits and vegetables. About one-third of the island is under cultivation. Revenue. 1891, ^43)55- Expenditure > Public Debt.\fy\, 35,371. IV. The Presidency of St Kitts, Nevis, Anguilla. St. Kitts. Area. 68 square miles, the total length being about 23 miles. Physical Features. The island is mountainous, Mount Misery, 1 In 1891 imports from United Kingdom ,75,396; exports to, 2572. 3 274 British Colonisation 3711 feet high, occupying the centre. The Vale of Basseterre is said to be extremely rich. Population. 1891, 47,662. Chief Town. Basseterre, 9097. Nevis. Area. 50 square miles. Physical Features. The island consists of a single mountain, of a circular form, rising 3200 feet above the sea. A narrow strait of two miles divides it from St. Kitts. Population. 1891, 13,087. Chief Town. Charlestown. Anguilla. Area. 35 square miles. It is distant 60 miles north-west from St. Kitts. The population is 3699. Government. The Presidency of St. Kitts-Nevis, with Anguilla, is governed by a President, an Executive Council, and a legislative body called the Legislative Council, consisting of ten official and ten nominated unofficial members. Trade. Imports (1891), ,161,105. Exports, ^187,455. 'The colony imported (1872-86) 42 per cent, from the United Kingdom, 12 per cent, from Canada, the British West Indies, and British Guiana, and 46 per. cent, from foreign countries, chiefly the United States. It exported 27 per cent, to the United Kingdom, 5 per cent, to Canada and the West Indies, and 68 per cent, to foreign countries, chiefly the United States, with a small quantity to the French West Indies and Italy.' l Products. Sugar, rum, molasses are the chief products. In St. Kitts the China and Seville orange is cultivated ; also the lime and the shaddock, a fruit said to have been introduced from Guinea by Captain Shaddock. Revenue. 1891, 38,209. Expenditure, ,45,220. Public Debt. 1891, ; 30,400. V. The Virgin Islands. Area. 58 square miles. Physical Features. The Virgin Islands are a number of islands to the north-west of St. Kitts, some of them, thirty-two in number, 1 In 1891, imports from United Kingdom 66,653 ; exports to, i7-9 8 6- Appendices 275 belonging to the British and some to Denmark. Occasionally they rise to a considerable height. Tortola, Virgin Gorda, Ane- gada, Jost van Dyke, Salt Island, and St. Peters are best known. Between Virgin Gorda and Tortola is a deep channel known as ' Drake's Channel,' after Sir Francis Drake, who passed through in 1595. Population. 1891, 4639. Chief Town. Roadtown (400), in Tortola. Government. The Virgin Islands are governed by an Adminis- trator, an Executive Council, and a Legislative Council consisting of the Colonial Secretary, Colonial Treasurer, and not more than three unofficial members nominated by the Administrator. Trade. Imports (1891), ^4446. Exports, ^4633. 'The Virgin Islands had the smallest trade amongst the whole of the British possessions. It was carried on (1872-86) exclusively with the United States. ' 1 Revenue. 1891, ,1512. Expendititre, 2219. SECTION H. THE WINDWARD ISLANDS. I. Grenada and the Grenadines. Area. 133 square miles. Divisions. The island is divided into the following parishes : (i) St. George, (2) St. David, (3) St. Andrew, (4) St. Patrick, (5) St. Mark, (6) St. John. Physical Features. The island is traversed by a mountain range, the highest point of which is St. Catherine, 2500 feet. There are several sulphurous springs. Lake Antoine is a remark- able feature, and is the source of many streams. Population. 1891, 53,209, including the Grenadines, of whom 2 per cent, only are Europeans. Chief Towns. St. George, Charlotte Town, St. Patrick, Gren- ville, Hillsborough, in Carriacou. Government. The island was once governed by a Legislative Council and Legislative Assembly, but it is now governed by an Administrator and a Council consisting of six official members and seven official members nominated by the Crown. At the same time Grenada is, together with St. Lucia and St. Vincent, under a Governor-in-Chief. 1 Jn 1891, imports from United Kingdom 317; exports not given. 276 British Colonisation Trade. Imports (1891), 176,929. Exports, 236,643. 'With regard to the distribution of trade, Grenada imported (1872-86) 13 per cent, from foreign countries, chiefly the United States, 46 per cent, from the United Kingdom, and 41 per cent, from British possessions, chiefly Barbados and Trinidad. It exported 89 per cent, to the United Kingdom.' In 1891, imports from United Kingdom 97,895 ; exports to, 218,600. Products. Cocoa is the chief product. Sugar, coffee, fruit, and timber are also exported. Nutmeg cultivation is also being de- veloped. Turtles and whales are found in the Grenadines. Revenue. 1891, 54,018. Expenditure, 56,450. Public Debt. 1891, 44,475. II. St. Lucia. Area. 243 square miles. Physical Features. St. Lucia is a mountainous island of volcanic origin, the ranges running north and south, the highest peak being Piton des Canaries, 3000 feet high. Deep forests clothe the moun- tain sides, and the soil is very rich at a high elevation. Population. 1891, 41,713, of whom 2000 are imported coolies. Chief Towns. Castries (6686), Souffriere (2000). Government. St. Lucia is a Crown colony. It is governed by an Administrator, who is subordinate to the Governor-in-Chief of the Windward Islands, assisted by a Legislative Council of ten, five being official and five unofficial. Trade. Imports (1891), 222,178. Exports, 181,503. 'With regard to the distribution of trade, St. Lucia drew (1872-86) about an equal proportion of its imports from the United Kingdom and foreign countries, chiefly the United States and France, and 13 per cent, from the British West Indies, chiefly Barbados. It exported 53 per cent, to the United Kingdom and 45 per cent, to foreign countries, chiefly the United States, France, and the French West Indies.' 1 Products. Sugar, coffee, cocoa and maize, logwood. St. Lucia is noted for its central sugar factories or usines. Revenue. 1891, 49,326. Expenditure^ 53,906. Public Debt. 1891, 140,770. Communication. There are three principal roads in the island : 1 In 1891, imports from United Kingdom 138,019; exports to, 37,177. Appendices 277 one from Castries to Vieux Fort on the extreme south, a second from Castries to the eastern parts of the island, and a third from Castries to Gros Islet and the extreme north. Many steamers, both French and British, call at Port Castries. III. St. Vincent. Area. 140 square miles. Bequia, one of the Grenadines, has an area of 6 square miles. This islet, as well as others, is included under St. Vincent. Physical Features. St. Vincent is an oval-shaped island of vol- canic origin, with high and thickly wooded mountains. The chief harbour is Kingstown Bay, on the south-west. Population. 1891, 41,054. Chief Towns. Kingstown (5593), Georgetown on the east. Government. The island is governed by an Administrator and a Legislative Council of eight, and, like the rest of the Windward Islands, is under a Governor-in-Chief. T^rade. Imports (1891), .97,839. Exports, 98,672. 'With regard to the distribution of its trade, St. Vincent imported (1872-86) nine-tenths of its imports in nearly equal proportions from the United Kingdom and British West Indies, probably Bar- bados, with 12 per cent, from foreign countries, chiefly the United States. It exported 39 per cent, to the United Kingdom and 54 per cent, to foreign countries, chiefly the United States.' x Products. Sugar, molasses, rum, cocoa, coffee, cotton, and arrowroot. Revenue. 1891, 27,649. Expenditure, 2 8, 51 6. Debt, 14, 370. SECTION I. THE BAHAMAS. Area. 4500 square miles. The principal islands are New Providence, Abaco, Harbour Island, Eleuthera, Inagua, Ragged Island, Rum Cay, Exuina, Long Island, Long Cay, Great Bahama, Cat Island, Watling's Island (San Salvador), Andros Island. Physical Features. Great Bahama Bank and Little Bahama Bank are two coral banks on which the islands and rocks are situated, Providence Channels dividing the two. The banks are said to be formed of the deposits carried down by the Mississippi 1 In 1891, imports from United Kingdom ,44,447 ; exports to, 39,848. 278 British Colonisation and other rivers into the Gulf of Mexico, and drifted eastward by the Gulf Stream. No island exceeds 14 miles in breadth. Population. 1891, 47,565. Chief Towns. Nassau, on New Providence (12,000) ; Harbour Island, a health resort. Government. The Bahamas constitute a single colony adminis- tered by a Governor, an Executive Council of nine members, a Legislative Council of nine members, and a Representative Assembly of twenty-nine members. Trade. Imports (1891), ,190,670. Exports, ,128,010. Sir R. W. Rawson observes that both import and export trade were carried on chiefly with foreign countries, mainly with the United States, viz. 77 and 87 per cent, respectively. The trade with British possessions did not amount to 2 per cent. Products. Fruit trade with the United States is the chief in- dustry. Sponge-fishing employs many seamen, the sponges being brought to the surface by diving or by hooked poles. The fibre industry is a rising one. Pink pearls, salt, guano, tortoise-shell, and cameos are minor products. Revenue. 1891, ,52,813. Expenditure, ,55,804. Public Debt. 1891, ,81,126. Communication. Regular mail communication between the Bahamas and New York, monthly in summer and fortnightly in winter. Nassau, the capital, is 310 miles from Havana, 660 from Kingston Harbour, Jamaica. SECTION K. THE BERMUDAS. Area. 41 square miles. Parishes. Sandys, Southampton, Warwick, Paget, Pembroke, Devonshire, Smithe, Hamilton, St. George's. Physical Features. The largest island, Main Island, contains about 9000 acres, the highest point being 240 feet. The group of islands form an oval ring about 22 miles in length and 10 miles in width. The marked feature is the continuous reefs of coral. The soil is poor in quality. Population. 1891, 15,013, of whom 5690 are white. Chief Towns. Hamilton, St. George. Ireland Island is the naval depot and dockyard. Here is a permanent garrison of Imperial troops numbering 1400, and the mean number of the Admiralty establishment is 1200. Appendices 279 Government. The Bermudas constitute a single colony ad- ministered by a Governor, assisted by a Legislative Council of nine, three of whom are official and six unofficial, and a House of Assembly of thirty-six members, four from each of the nine parishes. Trade. Imports from the United Kingdom (1891), ,325,976. Exports, 1 29,803. * Bermuda drew 6 1 per cent, of its imports (1872- 1886) from foreign countries, chiefly from the United States, to which country it sent the greater part of its exports. The remainder of its imports were from the United Kingdom and British West Indies. The amount of its exports to the United Kingdom was insignificant.' l Products. Vegetables and fruit, which are sent to New York. The whole population is dependent upon food supplies from abroad. Revenue. 1*91, 33,5V- Expenditure, .32,029. Public Debt. 1891, .8600. Communication. Hamilton is 3000 miles from England, and the passage takes from 14 to 15 days. Chronology. 1492. Columbus discovered San Salvador in the Bahamas, also Cuba, Tortuga, Hispaniola (Hayti). 1493. On a second voyage Columbus discovered the Leeward Islands, Porto Rico, Jamaica. 1498. On a third voyage Columbus discovered Trinidad, Tobago, Grenada, and the mainland of America on the Gulf of Paria. 1516. Cabot and Pert touch at Hispaniola. First appearance of English vessels in West Indies. 1520. First sugar plantation in St. Domingo. 1528. The French in the West Indies. 1562. Sir John Hawkins landed a slave cargo in Hispaniola. 1580. The Dutch in Guiana. 1 596. Sir W. Ralegh at Trinidad. 1609. Gates and Somers at the Bermudas. 1612. First emigrants at the Bermudas. 1613. The French at Cayenne. Harcourt's grant of Guiana. 1617. Sir W. Ralegh's last voyage up the Orinoco. 1623. Settlement at St. Kitts by Warner. 1 In 1891, imports from United Kingdom .85,775; exports to, ,1794. 280 British Colonisation 1624-5. Settlement of Barbados. 1626. The French Company of the Islands of America. 1627. The. Carlisle grant of the Caribbean Islands. The Guiana Company. 1628. The Montgomery grant. 1630. Colonisation of Mosquito Coast by royal patent. 1638. Settlement of Belize, British Honduras, by Willis. 1640. Sugar first manufactured at Barbados. 1647. Lord Willoughby takes the Carlisle patent. 1651. The first Act of Navigation. 1655. Occupation of Jamaica by Penn and Venables. 1660. Establishment of representative government in Jamaica. 1663. Tax of 4| per cent, levied on Barbadians. 1670. Treaty of Madrid by which British occupation of Jamaica was confirmed. 1674. Christopher Codrington at Antigua. Treaty of Westminster. 1675-6. Dampier at Campechd Bay as a buccaneer. 1689. Commission to Christopher Codrington. 1692. The great earthquake at Jamaica. 1694. Jamaica attacked by the French. 1697. Tieaty of Ryswick. 1698. The Scotch Colony at Darien. 1702. Admiral Benbow's death. 1713. Treaty of Utrecht. The Assiento. 1729. Bishop Berkeley sailed for America. 1733-38. Maroon wars in Jamaica. 1742. Occupation of the Mosquito Shore. 1748. Peace of Aix-la-Chapelle. 1760. Slave insurrection in Jamaica. 1763. Peace of Paris. 1765. Captain Cook at British Honduras. 1778. War between England and France. 1782. Rodney's victory off Dominica. 1783. Peace of Versailles. 1788. The Otaheite cane introduced into Martinique. 1789. The French Revolution. 1795. Last Maroon war in Jamaica. 1796-7. Abercromby and Sir J. Moore in the West Indies. 1798. British Honduras conquered by the Bay men. Appendices 281 1802. Peace of Amiens. 1807. Abolition of the slave trade. 1814. Treaty of Paris. 1830-50. The era of England's financial reforms. 1834. Abolition of slavery. 1838. Abolition of 4^ per cent, tax, Barbados. 1841. Mr. Baring's Budget and the sugar duties. 1845. Mr. Gladstone's speech on equalisation of duties. 1850. Fall of the old mercantile system. 1865. The great rebellion in Jamaica. 1866. Formation of new Government in Jamaica. 1884. The present Constitution of Jamaica. 1890-1. The Jamaica Exhibition. II. NEWFOUNDLAND, WITH LABRADOR. Area. 40,200 square miles, having an average breadth of about 130 miles, and a length from north to south of 350 miles. Divisions. The island is divided into ten electoral districts : In the centre, (i) District of St. John's, (2) Ferryland ; in the north, (3) Conception Bay, (4) Trinity Bay, (5) Bonavista Bay, (6) Twillingate and Fogo ; in the south, (7) Placentia, (8) Burin, (9) Fortune Bay, (10) Burgeo and Lapoile. Physical Features. The 'great feature of Newfoundland geo- graphy is its broken coast-line, with an infinite number of bays and promontories. The interior is not much developed. It is covered with deep forests, varied here and there by open spaces called Barrens. There are a few isolated mountains, called Tolts, rising generally 2000 feet. The chief rivers are the H umber and the Exploits. There are innumerable lakes or ponds in the island. The climate is rough but bracing. The fogs do not extend far inland. Population. In 1881, 179,509 ; in 1891, 197,934. Chief Towns. St. John's, 31,142, the capital; Harbour Grace, 7054 ; Fogo and Twillingate, 4777 ; Bonavista, 3463 ; Carbonear, 3756. There are a large number of fishing towns and villages along the coast. Government. Responsible government, established in 1855, consisting of a Governor aided by an Executive Council of seven 282 British Colonisation members, a Legislative Council of fifteen members, and a House of Assembly of thirty-six members. Trade. The imports (1891) were ,1,431,137. Exports (1891), ,1,549,408. According to Sir R. W. Rawson, the import trade of Newfoundland (1872-86) was nearly divided between the United Kingdom, Canada, and the United States. The re- mainder was almost confined to the British West Indies, Spain, and Portugal. The exports were differently distributed : viz. 36 per cent, to the United States, 10 per cent, to Canada and British West Indies, and 54 per cent, to foreign countries, chiefly Portugal and Brazil. In 1891 the value of imports from United Kingdom was ,487,855 ; of exports to the United Kingdom, ,409,913. Products. The products of the island come almost entirely from the sea, and consist of cod-fish, cod and seal oil, sealskins, tinned lobsters, herring, trout, and salmon. There is also mineral wealth, chiefly copper. Revenue. 1891, ,379,1 59- Expenditure, 1891, ,341,909. Public Debt. 1891, ,1,088,201. Public Works. A railway from St. John's to Harbour Grace, 84 miles ; also a branch line to Placentia. There are about 1000 miles of telegraph open. At Heart's Content is the shore end of the first submarine cable between the Old and New World. There are also 750 miles of postal and 1700 miles of district roads. The dry dock at St. John's is a most important work, capable of hold- ing the largest vessel afloat. Communication. The harbour of St. John's is less than 1650 miles from the coast of Ireland. A railway from St. John's across the island to St. George's Bay is contemplated. If this were com- pleted and communication opened up with Shippegan on the Ameri- can continent, the length of the voyage between Ireland and America could be reduced to four days. At present there is a fortnightly service between St. John's and Liverpool, excepting during January, February, March. In the summer there is a fortnightly service between St. John's and Labrador. Chief Dates. 1497. Discovery of Labrador and Newfoundland by Cabot. 1500. Voyage of Cortereal to Newfoundland. 1527. Expedition of Captain Rut to St. John's. 1536. Expedition of Hore. Appendices 283 1 583. Proclamation of Sir H. Gilbert at St. John's. 1615. Commission and voyage of Captain Whitbourne. 1620. French settlement at Placentia. 1623. Settlement of Lord Baltimore at Ferryland. 1634. Irish colonists sent over. 1660. Declaration of Star Chamber. 1697. Treaty of Ryswick. 1702. French conquests. 1713. Treaty of Utrecht. Acknowledgment of British sovereignty. 1770. First Moravian Mission in Labrador. 1783. Treaty of Versailles. 1814. Treaty of Paris. 1838. Declaration of Lord Palmerston on fisheries rights. 1853. Marine survey of the Atlantic bed. 1855. Responsible government. 1866. First Atlantic cable landed at Heart's Content. 1876. Labrador included in the colony. 1891. Census. 1892. Great fire at St. John's. With regard to LABRADOR, it should be noted that it is a de- pendency of Newfoundland, although it belonged for some years 1773-1809 to Quebec. Tt is chiefly a summer resort of fishermen. It has an area of about 120,000 square miles, and a coast-line of 600 miles. The country is very bleak, and has only about 5000 permanent inhabitants, of whom 1700 are Eskimo. The only official who visits the county is a J.P. and collector of customs, who comes there annually in a revenue cutter. The chief places of resort are Battle Harbour on the Strait of Belle Isle, and the Moravian Mission stations at Hopedale, Nain, Okkak, Hebron. III. THE DOMINION OF CANADA. Aiea. 3,470,000 square miles. Provinces. (i) Quebec, (2) Ontario, (3) Nova Scotia, (4) New Brunswick, (5) Prince Edward Island, (6) Manitoba, (7) British Columbia. To these must be added the North-East Territories, lying around Hudson's Bay and due north of Quebec and Ontario, and the North-West Territories, with the districts of 284 British Colonisation Assiniboia, Saskatchewan, Alberta, and Athabasca. In due course of time these districts may become provinces. Physical Features. Mountains. In the province of Quebec : (i) the Laurentian, (2) the Alleghany systems. (3) The Rocky Mountains are the most important, dividing the province of British Columbia from Alberta and Athabasca. In British Columbia, a very mountainous province, there are : (4) the Selkirks, subsidiary to the Rockies ; (5) the Cascades, running parallel with the Pacific coast. Rivers. There are four chief river systems : (i) the St. Lawrence, with its tributaries the Ottawa and Saguenay, flowing into the North Atlantic ; (2) the East Main, Albany, Red River, Assiniboine, Saskatchewan, Nelson, and Churchill Rivers, flowing into Hudson's Bay ; (3) the Coppermine and Mackenzie, flowing north into the Polar Sea ; (4) the Fraser River, with its tributaries in British Columbia, flowing into the Pacific Ocean. Lakes. There are three chief lake systems: (i) Ontario, Erie, Huron, Superior, draining into the Atlantic ; (2) Winnipeg, Winnipegosis, and Manitoba into Hudson's Bay ; (3) Reindeer, Athabasca, Great Slave, and Great Bear into the Polar Sea. Prairies. The prairie levels begin from the longitude of the Red River, and extend westwards to the Rocky Mountains, covering immense areas in the centre of the Dominion. These prairie levels or plateaux are three in number : the first, with an average elevation of 800 feet, extending 52 miles in width ; the second, with an average elevation of 1600 feet, extending 250 miles ; the third, with an average elevation of 2000 feet, extending 465 miles up to the * Rockies.' Forests. The Dominion of Canada is noted for its magnificent forests, more than half the area of British Columbia being covered with them. The king of the pines is the Douglas fir, Canada is called the land of the maple. Population. In 1881, 4,324,810; in 1891, 4,829,411 a com- paratively small increase. The urban population of Canada is, according to the last census, 1,394,259, an increase of 384,146 upon the census of 1881, and equal to an increase of 38.1 per cent. In 1891 there were 47 cities with a population of over 5000, as against 35 in 1881, an increase of 12. In 1891 there were 45 Appendices 285 towns with a population from 3000 to 5000, as against 37 in 1881, an increase of 7. In 1891 there were 91 villages with a population from 1500 to 3000, as against 55 in 1 88 1, an increase of 36. 1 Chief Towns. Montreal, 1891, 216,650, increasing from 155,237 in 1 88 1, or 39.5 per cent. Toronto, 181,220, increasing from 96,196 in 1 88 1, or 88.4 per cent. Quebec, 63,090, increasing from 62,446, or i.o per cent. Hamilton, 48,980, increasing from 35,960 in 1881, or 36 per cent. Ottawa, 44,154, increasing from 31,307 in 1881, or 41.0 per cent. St. Jean, 39,179, decreasing from 41,353 in 1881, or 5.2 per cent. Halifax, 38,556, increasing from 36,100 in 1881, or 6.8 per cent. London, 31,977, increasing from 26,266 in 1881, or 21.7 per cent. Winnipeg, 25,642, increasing from 7985 in 1881, or 22 1. 1 per cent. Kingston, 19,264, increasing from 14,091, or 36.7 per cent. Victoria, British Columbia, 16,841, increasing from 5925, or 184 per cent. Vancouver, 13,685, a new city altogether. St. Henri, 13,415, increasing from 6415 in 1881, or 109 per cent. Brantford, 12,753, increasing from 9616 in 1881, or 32.6 per cent. Charlottetown, 11,374, decreasing from 11,485 in 1881, or 0.9 per cent. Hull, 11,265, increasing from 6890 in 1881, or 63 per cent. Guelph, 10,539, increasing from 9890 in 1881, or 6.5 per cent. St. Thomas, 10,370, increasing from 8367 in 1881, or 23.9 per cent. Windsor, 10,322, increasing from 6561 in 1 88 1, or 57.9 per cent. Sherbrooke, 10,110, increasing from 7227 in 1881, or 39.9 per cent. The population of New Westminster has sprung from 1500 in 1881 to 6641 in 1891, an increase of 342.9 per cent. These figures prove that the urban population in Canada is in- creasing more quickly than the rural, a fact noticeable almost everywhere. It may be noted, also, that whilst Charlottetown in Prince Edward Island, St. Jean, and Quebec are almost stationary, some of the cities and towns in Ontario, the prairie provinces, and British Columbia show the greatest increase. Westward the course of migration takes its way. Winnipeg and New West- minster are two of the most striking instances of urban develop- ment. In the eastern maritime provinces, the population increased barely 1.2 per cent, upon that of 1881. Families are becoming smaller, and there is an aversion to agriculture. '* With regard to religion, the Roman Catholics composed 4 1.46 per cent, of the whole population in 1891, the Methodists 17.65 per 1 Bulletin No. i . Census of Canada, Department of Agriculture, Ottawa. 2 Ibid. No. 3. 286 British Colonisation cent., the Presbyterians 15.73 per cent., the Church of England 13.41 per cent, the Baptists 6.33 per cent. Two of the denomina- tions have increased their strength in every province of the Dominion the Roman Catholics and the Methodists. The Church of England has decreased in New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island. The Presbyterians have decreased in New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, and Prince Edward Island, but increased remarkably in Manitoba. The Church of England has increased even more remarkably in British Columbia. Out of the 854,842 inhabited houses in the Dominion, 1891, 697,356 were built of wood, 131,522 of brick, and only 25,964 of stone. Government. The provinces and districts of Canada have been confederated under the British Crown ; and, whilst each province has its own Legislature, undertaking all local and provincial affairs, it is nevertheless under the control, in certain matters, of the Central or Federal Government sitting at Ottawa. In the Provincial Legislatures there are, in the case of Quebec, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Prince Edward Island, two houses (a) the Legislative Council, (b] the Legislative Assembly. In the case of Ontario, Manitoba, British Columbia there is the Legislative Assembly only. The Provincial Legislature is presided over by a Lieutenant-Governor. The supreme legislative power is invested in a Parliament consisting of (a) the Queen ; (&) a Senate of 80 members nominated for life by the Governor-General ; (c) a House of Commons consisting of 215 members, of whom 92 are elected from Ontario, 65 from Quebec, 21 from Nova Scotia, i6from New Brunswick, 5 from Manitoba, 6 from British Columbia, 6 from Prince Edward Island, 4 from the Territories. The repre- sentative of the Queen is the Governor-General, appointed for five years, who chooses and summons a Privy Council. Trade. The imports for the year ending June 3oth, 1891, were valued at ^24,650,884, of which ^8,639,903 came from the United Kingdom. The exports for the same year amounted to ^20,222,732, of which ^10,126,204 was sent to the United Kingdom. Products. The chief products of Canada, arranged in the order of their value, are : (i) those of the farm and dairy, (2) the forests, (3) the sea and lake fisheries, (4) the mines, (5) manufactures. Coal is found principally in Nova Scotia, Alberta, and British Columbia. British Columbia is famed also for its gold-mines ; the Appendices 287 timber trade belongs more especially to the province of Quebec ; dairy farming and agriculture generally are at their best in the province of Ontario. At Sudbury, in Ontario, the deposits of nickel are the richest in the world, and in this province petroleum is produced in large quantities. Sea-fishing and the tinning (ex- port) trade belong more especially to British Columbia and Nova Scotia. The total number of industrial establishments was 49,923 in 1 88 1, and 75,765 in 1891, showing an increase of nearly 52 per cent. The development of manufactures from 1881 to 1891 has added nearly ninety million dollars a year to the wealth of the country, as against thirty-three million dollars a year for the previous decade, 1871-81. Revenue. 1891, ^7,927,256. Expenditure, ,7,467,856. Public Debt. July i, 1891, ,59,568,335. Pitblic Works. The greatest public work of Canada is the Canadian Pacific Railway, which connects Montreal and Van- couver, a distance of 2906 miles. The whole system has a length of 4973 miles. The time occupied in constructing the C.P.R. was four years six months, at the rate of more than two miles a day. The mileage of all the Canadian railways is over 13,000. The most famous canals are: (i) the Lachine, 9 miles long; (2) the Welland, connecting Lake Erie with Lake Ontario, 26| miles long ; (3) the Rideau Canal, by which the inland waters of Lake Ontario were connected with those of the St. Lawrence. By means of canals the extremity of Lake Superior can be reached, 1400 miles above Montreal. A canal is being constructed past the Sault Ste. Marie on the Canadian side. The most famous bridge is the Victoria tubular bridge across the St. Lawrence. Defence Forces. There are two Imperial naval stations one at Halifax, the other at Esquimault (Squimo). The navy and mer- cantile marine of Canada rank fourth in the world. There are more than 30,000 able-bodied seamen. Canada undertakes her own internal defence. The active militia numbers 38,000 men ; the reserve militia numbers over 700,000, consisting of all males between eighteen and sixty. Chief Dates. 1497. Cabot sights the mainland of North America. 1500. Cortereal reaches Labrador. 1524. Verrazano explores the coasts of North America. 288 British Colonisation 1534. Jacques Cartier ascends the Gulf of St. Lawrence. 1608. Champlain founds Quebec. 1628. Richelieu organises 'The Company of a Hundred Asso- ciates.' 1642. Montreal built by Maisonneuve. 1666. Father Marquette sails for Canada. 1682. La Salle discovers the mouth of the Mississippi. 1689. De Frontenac Governor of Canada. 1696 D'Iberville in Hudson's Bay. 1697. Treaty of Ryswick. 1699. D'Iberville in Louisiana. 1713. Treaty of Utrecht. 1742. Verendrye sights the Rockies. 1756. Montcalm in Canada. 1759. Quebec taken by Wolfe. 1763. Treaty of Paris. Canada a British Colony. 1763. Proclamation of George ill. offering lands to emigrants. 1774. Quebec Act passed. 1775. The Americans attack Canada. 1777. Burgoyne's defeat. 1783. Treaty of Paris. 1783. United Empire loyalists colonise New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. 1784. Emigration of United Empire loyalists to Upper Canada. 1789. Alexander Mackenzie navigates the Mackenzie River. 1791. Upper Canada separated from Lower Canada. 1793. Alexander Mackenzie crosses the Rockies to Pacific. 1803. Lord Selkirk leads a colony to Prince Edward Island. 1806. The Berlin Decrees. 1807. Orders in Council. 1812. Selkirk settlers on the Red River. 1812-15. War between Canada and the United States. 1837. Lord Durham in Canada. 1841. The union of Upper and Lower Canada. 1842. The Ashburton Treaty settling Maine frontier. 1866. Fenian invasion of Canada, 1867. Confederation Act passed. 1871. June i, Dominion Day. Appendices 289 1872. The boundary of 49 settled between Canada and United States. 1885. Louis Kiel executed. 1886. The Canadian Pacific Railway finished. 1891. Census of the Dominion. IV. THE WEST AFRICAN SETTLEMENTS. SECTION A. THE GAMBIA. Area. 69 square miles. Divisions. The settlement consists of (i) the island of St. Mary, (2) British Combo ; (3) Albreda, (4) the Ceded Mile, (5) Macarthy's Island. Physical Features. The Gambia is one of the largest rivers of Western Africa, and falls into the Atlantic by a large estuary nearly twenty-seven miles across. This river forms sandbank and islands, which are low-lying, swampy, and unhealthy. Population. In 1881 there were only about forty white inhabi- tants. Now there is a police force of 1 10, and a detachment of the West India Regiment. The whole population, white and coloured, was (1891) 14,266. Chief Town. Bathurst (6000). Government. The Gambia is a Crown colony governed by an Administrator, aided by an Executive Council and by a Legislative Council of six. Trade. Imports (1891), ,172,118. Exports, ,180,052. 'Gambia drew [1872-86] a fourth of its imports from Sierra Leone, only 38 per cent, from the United Kingdom, and 35 per cent, from West African ports, the United States, and France. It exported 8 per cent, to the United Kingdom, and 88 per cent, to foreign countries, of which the greater portion went to France, and the remainder to West African ports, Madeira, the United States, and Italy, with a trifle to Sierra Leone and Gibraltar.' 1 Products. Ground nuts, hides, beeswax, rice, cotton, india- rubber, cola nuts. The ground nut is the staple product from which oil is extracted. Revenue. 1891, 31,038. Expenditure ', ,27,697. 1 In 1891, imports from United Kingdom, 84,798 ; exports to, .37,522, T 290 British Colonisation Defence. A police force and a detachment of the West India Regiment, as above stated. Communication. There are no railroads, but Bathurst is in communication with Europe by means of four telegraph cables. Liverpool steamers call every fortnight. The river is the main highway. Chief Dates. 1588. The Elizabethan Charter. 1618. Formation of a West African Company. 1821. Annexed to Sierra Leone. 1843. Created a colony. 1866. Absorbed under the general government of West African Settlements. 1 888. Finally separated. SECTION B. SIERRA LEONE. Area. 4000 square miles. Physical Features. Sierra Leone proper is a peninsula of an area of 300 square miles. It is mountainous, and very picturesque. The coast-line from the Skarcies River on the north to the Mannah River on the south, is malarious and unhealthy, extending for 180 miles. There are several islands, notably Sherbro' Island, and many rivers. The harbour of Freetown is the only good harbour on the West Coast of Africa between Cape Verde Islands and Fernando Po. Population. 1891, 174,835, of whom only 210 are resident Europeans. Chief Town. Freetown (30,033). Government. Sierra Leone is a Crown colony, administered by a Governor and an Executive of five, and a Legislative Council, the latter being composed of the former, with the addition of three unofficial members nominated by the Crown. Trade. Imports (1891), ,453,375- Exports, ,477,656. With i egard to the distribution of trade, ' Sierra Leone drew a larger proportion of its imports from the United Kingdom than either of its sister colonies, viz. 70 per cent (1872-86). The balance was drawn chiefly from the United States, Germany, France, and West African ports. Of the exports 37 per cent, were shipped to the United Kingdom. In 1891, imports from the United Kingdom were ( ^345,3 I ; exports 10^218,294. Appendices 29 1 Products. Palm oil, palm kernels, rubber, gum, camwood, benni-seed, and ground nuts. Revenue. 1891, ,89,869. Expenditure, ,77,965. Public Debt. 1891,^50,000. Public Works. As British influence is confined mainly to the littoral, there are no public works of importance, although the route to the plateaux of the interior is shorter here than elsewhere. Defence. Freetown harbour has been strongly fortified, and is a coaling-station for the Royal Navy. Communication. Liverpool is the mart where Sierra Leone produce is chiefly taken. It is 3000 miles distant, and the voyage takes about 15 to 16 days. Chief Dates. 1787. Ceded to England by native chiefs. 1791. Charter of Sierra Leone Company. 1807. Sierra Leone transferred to the Crown. 1821. Incorporated as part of 'Colony of West African Settle- ments.' 1862. British Kwaia and Sherbro' annexed. 1879. Skarcies River annexed. 1884. Mannah River annexed. LIBERIA. In connection with Sierra Leone the United States of Liberia, recognised by the European Powers, deserve a short notice. It is a negro republic, first founded by the American Philanthropic Colonisation Society in 1820, whither liberated slaves were sent. The names of Freetown in Sierra Leone, and Liberia itself, indi- cate the original purpose of the British colony and of the American settlement. It was to find a place in their own country for the emancipated negroes. Monrovia, the chief town of Liberia, was so called after the celebrated American President. From the beginning the principle of self-government has been fully acknow- ledged. In 1833 and 1835 a Quaker colony came to Liberia from Pennsylvania, the new arrivals landing in Grand Bassa. The area of Liberia is about 35,000 square miles, with 700 miles of coast, along which there are many openings for British trade. The population is said to be 18,000 to 20,000 civilised negroes, and 292 British Colonisation more than 100,000 African natives. The climate is said to be the hottest in the world. The country towards the interior rises in two main terraces. The second terrace is known as the Kong Mountains. Here gold mines are reported to exist. The native products are chiefly palm oil, camwood, ivory, and gold dust. Liberian coffee is well known. Liberian influence extends many hundred miles towards the interior. Here, then, is an opportunity for the extension of British influence. SECTION C. THE GOLD COAST. Area. 38,665 square miles. Physical Features. 1 The littoral of the Gold Coast, with the exception of a semi-desert patch near Akkra, is of the same moist, equatorial character in its climate and scenery as might be pre- sumed from its position. The typical West African forest country ends, however, on the northern frontiers of Ashanti, and the characteristic park-like grass land scenery of Central Africa begins in the plains through which the Upper Volta flows.' The length of the coast-line is about 350 miles. There is no good harbour, and goods and passengers are landed in surf boats. Population. 1891, 1,500,000, of whom about 150 are Europeans. Chief Towns. The most important trading ports and settle- ments are Newtown, Axim, Dixcove, Secondee, Elmina, Cape Coast Castle, Anamaboe, Salt Pond, Winnebah, Akkra (the seat of government), Addah, Quettah. Government. The Gold Coast is administered by a Governor, aided by an Executive and Legislative Council, all nominated by the Crown. Trade. Imports, 1891, ,665,781. Exports, ,684,305. As to the distribution of trade (1872-86), 'the Gold Coast imported 63 per cent, from the United Kingdom, and exported 48 per cent. Its chief foreign trade was with the United States, but it exported largely to Germany.' * Products. Palm oil and palm kernels are the staple products. Gold, india-rubber, monkey-skins, ivory, copra, gum copal, cam- wood, and benni-seed are also exported. The natives work gold ornaments, such as rings, and weave cloth. Revenue. 1891,^1 86,02 2 . Expenditure, 1 3 3,407, Public Works. There is no railway, and hardly any roads. 1 In 1891, imports from United Kingdom, 483,393] exports to, ,545,493. Appendices 293 There are about 200 miles of telegraph in the colony connecting posts along the coast-line. Defence. A garrison of 200 men and officers of the West India Regiment stationed at Cape Coast. There is also a constabulary of 800 men. Communication. Liverpool is the chief mart, distant 3900 miles. The route is vid Madeira. Length of passage, 20 or 30 days. Chief Dates. 1471. Elmina discovered by Portuguese. 1672. Royal African Company. 1750. African Company of Merchants. 1821. African Company dissolved. 1824. Ashanti War. 1831. Peace between English, Fantis, and Ashantis. 1850. Akkra, Addah purchased from Denmark. 1872. Ashanti War. 1 88 1. Death of King Coffee. SECTION D. LAGOS. Area. 1071 square miles. Lagos Island has an area of 3! square miles. Physical Features. * Lagos has few natural advantages to boast of. Its dangerous and shallow bar makes the entrance to its capital impracticable to any but small river steamers. It has a certain amount of natural canals, a network of creeks running right through the colony at a short distance from the coast ; but there is no other place on its littoral between the French boundary at Appa and the River Benin (where the colony is supposed to terminate on the east) where a landing can be safely effected on account of the heavy surf.' l Population. 85,607, of whom about 100 are Europeans. Chief Town. Lagos, termed the ' Liverpool of West Africa, 3 with a population of 60,000, is the largest town on the West African coast. Government. Lagos is a Crown colony, administered by a Governor, aided by an Executive and Legislative Council, the latter including three non-official officers. Trade. Imports, 1891, ^650,392. Exports, ^717,643. As to 1 H. H. Johnston. 294 British Colonisation the distribution of its trade (1872-86), ' Lagos drew 54 per cent, of imports from the United Kingdom, and 46 per cent, from foreign countries. It exported 32 per cent, to the United Kingdom, and 68 per cent, to foreign countries. Germany was its chief market for both imports and exports, to which were added France and West African French possessions for exports. 3 1 Products. Palm oil and palm kernels are the staple products. Revenue. 1891, ,78,625. Expenditure, 66,388. Communication. Liverpool is the chief mart, from which Lagos is distant 4279 miles. It is 1203 miles from Freetown, 315 from Cape Coast. There are no railways or telegraphs in the interior, but Lagos Island is in telegraphic communication with Congo South Africa on the south, and with the Gold Coast and Europe on the north. Internal communication is along the numerous lagoons. Chief Dates. 1851. First British interference. 1866. Lagos part of ' Colony of West African Settlements.' 1874. Lagos part of Gold Coast Colony. 1886. Lagos made a separate colony. SECTION E. THE NIGER PROTECTORATE. There are no accurate statistics available to show the precise area, population, trade, etc., of the Niger Protectorate. The Com- pany is said to possess no less than 1 50 factories. As regards administration, the native chiefs are interfered with as little as possible. British consuls, acting under the Secretary of State, exercise a great deal of influence. Palm oil, kernels, ivory, india- rubber, shea-butter, and benni-seed are the chief expoits. Tele- graphic communication is via Lagos. Consular jurisdiction is exercised at the chief ports along the rivers. Steamers navigate the Niger 460 miles from the sea, and for 450 miles up the Benue. i In 1891, imports from United Kingdom, 435,388 ; exports to, 285,822. Appendices 295 V. THE SOUTH AFRICAN COLONIES, SETTLE- MENTS, AND ISLANDS. The present possessions of Great Britain in South Africa are (i) the Cape Colony, (2) Natal, (3) Basutoland, (4) British Bechu- analand, (5) Zululand, (6) Mashonaland. In the following districts and countries her influence, although not exercised in the task of direct administration, is supreme : viz. Pondoland, Amatongaland, Swazieland, the Bechuanaland Protectorate. In addition, Great Britain has residents at the kraals of Lobengula, King of the Mata- bele, and Gungunhana, King of Gazaland, the two most powerful chiefs now left in Africa south of the Zambesi. SECTION A. THE CAPE COLONY. Area. 221,311 square miles. Divisions. The colony is divided into eight electoral provinces : (i) the Western, (2) North- Western, (3) South- Western, (4) Mid- land, (5) South-Eastern, (6) North-Eastern, (7) Eastern, (8) the Diamond Fields, or Griqualand West. Physical Features. The land rises from the sea in distinct terraces till the interior plateaux are reached, which are high and healthy. Water is scarce, and no mountain rises to the height of eternal snow. The great plains of the interior are called * karroos.' The Kalihari Desert is a notable feature on the west. Population. 1891, 1,525,739, of whom 376,812 were European, 847,542 aboriginal, 301,385 coloured. With regard to the distribution of races in urban and rural areas, it has been ascertained (1891) to be as follows : Urban Rural Total Areas. Areas. Population. Europeans. . . 154,541 222,274 376,812 Aboriginal. . . 49,763 797,779 847,542 All others coloured . 114,473 186,912 301,385 318,777 1,206,965 1,525,739 Nearly all the aboriginal or Kaffir race live in the rural areas, nearly half the Europeans in the urban areas, proving that cen- tralisation goes on in South Africa as elsewhere. 296 British Colonisation According to a census of religious sects in 1891, the Dutch Reformed Church counted 297,983 persons. Church of England 139,058 Wesleyan Methodists 106,132 Roman Catholics ,, 17,219 Moravians 16,297 The Congregationalists, Independents, and London Missionary Society counted 65,737 ; the Presbyterians and United Presby- terians numbered 33,000. Fully 750,000 persons, white and coloured, professed no religion at all. Chief Towns. Cape Town, 51,083; Port Elizabeth, 23,052; Kimberley, 28,643 ; Grahamstown, 10,436 ; East London, 6858. Government. The Cape Colony enjoys responsible govern- ment. The Governor is the representative of the Queen, and holds also the office of High Commissioner of South Africa. The Cape Legislature consists of the Legislative Council of 22 members, the Legislative Assembly of 76 members representing the above- mentioned electoral provinces, both Houses being elected by same voters. Trade. Total imports, 1891, ,8,582,776. Exports, .11,131,024. 'The trade of the Cape (1872-86) was chiefly with the United Kingdom, viz. 78 per cent, of imports and 94 per cent, of exports. Its imports from British possessions were 14 per cent., and exports to them only i per cent. Its foreign trade amounted to 9 and 4 per cent, of imports and exports respectively. After the United Kingdom the chief imports were from Natal, South Australia, Brazil, and the United States' (the articles imported being chiefly flour and wheat from South Australia, coffee from Brazil, and agricultural machinery from the United States). 'The exports to any single country except the United Kingdom were insignificant.' 1 Products. Diamonds, wool, copper ore, angora hair, ostrich feathers, skins, wine, fruit. The gold exported through Cape ports comes from the Transvaal. The annual value of diamonds exported is about ,4,000,000 worth, the gold more than ,2,500,000. More than three-quarters of Cape exports must be put to the account of minerals and gems. Revenue. 1891, ^4,143,876. Expenditure, ,4,308,762. Public Debt.M^ to December 31, 1891, .24,832,767. Public Works. Railways, 1 599 miles. Telegraphs, 1 1,325 miles. 1 In 1891, imports from the United Kingdom, 7,030,503 ; exports to, 10,690,810. Appendices 297 Harbours at Table Bay and East London constructed at vast ex- pense. Roads and bridges connect all parts of the colony together. Defence. Cape Mounted Rifles, 819 ; Cape police, 704. A sum of about ;i 50,000 is voted annually for colonial defence purposes, including defence of Table Bay. There are also thirty volunteer corps, numbering between 4000 and 5000 men. The Burghers con- stitute third line of defence, and correspond to the reserve militia of Canada. The Imperial garrison at Cape Town and Wynberg musters about 1300. Communication. Table Bay is 6000 miles distant from Ply- mouth. The time occupied is twenty days, sometimes seventeen days. The Scot has done the voyage in fifteen days. The two lines are the Union Steamship Company and the Castle Line, both possessing a magnificent fleet of steamers whose passages have been remarkable for their safety and punctuality. Chief Dates. 1486. Discovery of the Cape. 1620. Proclamation of British authority by Shillinge and Fitz- herbert. 1651. Dutch occupation. 1687. Immigration of French refugees. 1795. First British occupation. 1802. Peace of Amiens. 1806. Second British occupation. 1 807. Abolition of the slave trade. 1820. The English settlers land at Algoa Bay. 1819. Kaffir War. 1834. Slave emancipation. 1834. Kaffir War. 1846-53. Kaffir Wars. The ' War of the Axe.' 1852. First Transvaal Republic founded. 1854. The Orange Free State founded. 1857. Kaffir War. 1867. Discovery of diamonds. 1871. The Diamond Fields proclaimed a colony. 1872. Introduction of responsible government. 1877. Sir Bartle Frere Governor of the Cape. 1878. Kaffir War. 1879. Basuto War. 1881-1889. Governorship of Sir Hercules Robinson. 298 British Colonisation SECTION B. NATAL. Area. 20,461 square miles. Divisions. The colony is divided into eight counties : (i) Pieter- maritzburg, (2) Durban, (3) Victoria, (4) Umvoti, (5) Klip River, (6) Weenen, (7) Alfred, (8) Alexandra. Physical Features. The land rises in terraces to the interior. The chief mountain range runs parallel with the coast. The rivers are numerous and flooded in the summer. There are no natural harbours along the coast. Population. 1891, 543,983, of whom 46,788 are white, 41,142 Indians, 455,913 Kaffirs. Chief Towns. Durban, 9000; Pietermaritzburg, 9251. Government. Natal is administered by a Governor, aided by an Executive Council and a Legislative Assembly of thirty-one mem- bers, twenty-four of whom are elected by the colonists, five are ex ojficio, and two nominated by the Government. Trade. Imports, 1891, ,3,647,494. Exports, ,1,458,082. ' Natal resembles the Cape of Good Hope in the character of its trade (1872-86). It drew 81 per cent, of imports from the United Kingdom, and sent thither 79 per cent, of its exports. It shipped, however, a considerable amount to the Cape. Its foreign trade was of small amount, 7 per cent, and 4 per cent, respectively.' * Products. Wool, coal, gold, sugar, angora hair, and skins. Revenue. 1891, ^1,318,769. Expenditure, .1,393,896. Public Zte/. 1891, ^7,170,354. Public Works. There are 340 miles of railway. Telegraph wires connect every place of importance. The harbour works at Port Natal are a most important public work. Defence. There are about 1 500 colonists, volunteers and others, enlisted for the purposes of defence. There is generally a garrison of 1200 Imperial troops at Pietermaritzburg. The port of Durban is strongly fortified. Communication. Natal is 845 miles distant from Cape Town, which is about 6000 miles from Plymouth, and is, therefore, two or three days further from England than Cape Town. The colony is 300 miles from Delagoa Bay and 1 770 from Zanzibar. The Eastern Submarine Telegraph Cable is landed on Natal shores, connecting with the East and with Europe. 1 In 1891, imports from the United Kingdom, 2,789,130 > exports to, 1,193.581. Appendices 299 Chief Dates. 1497. Natal discovered by Vasco da Gama. 1837. Boer settlement. 1843. English rule proclaimed. 1856. Natal a separate colony. 1887. Zululand a British colony. 1891-2. Agitation for responsible government. SECTION C. BASUTOLAND. Area. 10,293 square miles. Divisions. (i) Maseru, (2) Mafeting, (3) Leribe. Physical Features. Mountainous. Basutoland has been called the Switzerland of South Africa. Population. 1891, 218,324 natives ; 578 Europeans. Chief Town. Maseru (763). Government. Basutoland is administered by a Resident Com- missioner, acting under the High Commissioner. The Basutos have a certain amount of local government. Trade. The Basutos are large purchasers of manufactures. Products. Basutoland is a great cattle-rearing and grain- producing country. Revenue. 1 890, ^41,784. Expenditure, ^40,825. Communication. Basutoland is 7668 miles from London. It is reached best through the Cape Colony. Chief Dates. 1818. The Basutos formed into a nation. 1852. Basuto War with British. 1856. Basuto War with the Orange Free State. 1868. Basutoland taken under the British Crown. 1871. Basutoland annexed to the Cape. 1879. Moirosis W T ar. 1 880. Basuto War with the Cape Colony. 1884. Basutoland again taken under the British Crown. SECTION D. BRITISH BECHUANALAND. Area. 60,000 square miles, the Bechuanaland Protectorate being 162,000 square miles. 3OO British Colonisation Physical Features. British Bechuanaland lies at a high eleva- tion about 4000 feet to 500x3 feet above the level of the sea. The scenery is monotonous, the feature of the landscape being broad, open, mimosa-clad plains. The rivers are swollen in winter, but soon dry up. Thunder-storms and dust-storms are frequent in their season the former in summer and the latter in winter. The climate is dry and healthy. Population. 1600 Europeans, 43,985 natives. Towns. Vryburg, Mafeking, Taungs. Government. British Bechuanaland is governed by an Adminis- trator under the High Commissioner of South Africa. Trade. The imports, which come almost entirely from the Cape, are textiles, hardware, alcohol. The exports go to the Kimberley market, and consist of mealies, wool, hides, wood. Products. Maize, or mealies, and cattle are the chief products. Revenue. 1891, ^52,029 ; Parliamentary grant, ;n5 5 99i- Expenditure, ^153,902. Defence. The Bechuanaland Border Police, of 500 men. Communication. The railway is extended from Kimberley, in the Cape Colony, to Vryburg and Mafeking ; the telegraph (over- land) wire passes through British Bechuanaland to Matabeleland and Mashonaland. The colony is easily reached from Kimberley. On the 30th September 1885, British Bechuanaland was declared to be a British colony. With regard to Khama's country, or the Bechuanaland Protectorate, it resembles, generally speaking, British Bechuanaland. England's influence is paramount over these immense areas up to the Zambesi. SECTION E. ZULULAND. Area. 8900 square miles. Physical Features. Much of the land on the east, and along the coast, consists of broad, grassy, undulating plains. In the interior are deep forests. Population. 400,000. There are 300 troops at Etshowe. Government. The colony is administered by a Resident Com- missioner at Etshowe, under the Governor of Natal. Products. Cattle and mealies chiefly. Revenue. \ 890, 4 1 ,674. Expenditure, ,29,732. Appendices 301 Chief Dates. 1800. Beginning of the Zulu nation. 1828. Accession of Dingaan. 1839. Panda set up by the Dutch. 1861. Cetywayo chosen as regent by the English. 1873. Cetywayo succeeds as king. 1879. Zulu War, and Cetywayo deposed. 1883. Cetywayo restored. 1884. Death of Cetywayo. 1887. Zululand a British colony. SECTION F. SWAZIELAND. A tract of country, with an area of 8000 square miles, lying to the east of the Transvaal, with a native population of about 60,000, and 500 European settlers. The Europeans are partly Boer graziers from the Transvaal, and partly British and other adven- turers who have gained mining and other concessions from the Swazie chiefs. The country has wooded districts and long stretches of arable ground. It is also well watered, some of the rivers being the Komati, the Black and White Umvolosi, the Great and Little Usuto. It has been ascertained that there is much gold in Swazieland. Concessions for farming, mining, and grazing rights are given for fifty years. The Swazies are old allies of the English, and are a brave Kaffir race. Swazieland is under a dual control of Boers and British for a provisional period, ending May 1893. The Swazieland Convention, dated August 2, 1890, was made for three years. According to this Convention the Transvaal Republic was empowered to construct a railway, if they wished, to Kosi Bay through Amatongaland, subject to certain reservations. Amatongaland itself is a small tract of country north of Zululand, adjoining the sea. In June 1887 the country was taken under British protection. The Tongas are industrious people, and migrate in large numbers to the gold- and diamond- fields for work. SECTION G. MASHONALAND. The area of Mashonaland proper is not clearly defined, and it comes within the wide scope of the British South Africa Company. It consists chiefly of the highlands to the east of Matabeleland to a 3O2 British Colonisation point within 300 miles of the Indian Ocean. The chief posts are simply forts, e.g. Forts Tuli, Charter, Salisbury. The population consists of a police force of 500 men, many miners and settlers, and emigrants from the colonies on the south. The country is being opened up, under British protection, by the British South Africa Company, with a capital of .1,000,000. The products of the country are agricultural and mineral. It is expected that gold will be the staple industry. Public works are rapidly being taken in hand. Already the country is being connected by post and telegraph. Communication is carried on either vtd Bechuanaland or Port Beira on the east coast. A railway will shortly be con- structed between Port Beira and Fort Salisbury. Mashonaland is the most recent sphere of British colonisation in South Africa, properly so called. SECTION H. NORTH ZAMBESIA, NYASSALAND, LAKE TANGAN- YIKA, THE BRITISH IMPERIAL SOUTH AFRICAN COMPANY, AND UGANDA. North Zambesia must be spoken of in connection with South Zambesia and Mashonaland. Sena, Tete, and Zumbo, stations on the Zambesi, and centres of an ancient traffic, draw their wealth from northern parts. Zumbo, at the junction of the Aroanga, or Loangwa, with the Zambesi, is the station chosen as a residence by Mr. H. H. Johnston, Her Majesty's accredited envoy in this part of the world, and acting as intermediary between the Portu- guese on the east and the British South Africa Company. The Zambesi is at once a terminus and a starting-place. At present it seems to bound the enterprises of the Mashonaland pioneers ; but the Shire River, the northern affluent of the Zambesi, con- ducts the colonist to new regions first to Lake Nyassa, then by the Stevenson Road to Lake Tanganyika, and thence to the Victoria Nyanza and the equatorial regions of Central Africa. The lakes lying in deep troughs or depressions along several degrees of latitude are a natural water-way destined to open up Africa from the Zambesi to the Nile. Commerce will find its way along this passage, and may be deflected eastwards as it is tapped by rail- ways such as that contemplated by the British Imperial East Africa Company from Mombassa. A long line of explorers, as Livingstone, Cameron, Speke, Grant, Stanley, and others, have Appendices 303 won triumphs for England in Eastern and Central Africa. Also, there has been no lack of earnest and determined mission workers on the part of the Church Missionary Society, the London Mis- sionary Society, the Universities Mission, to supplement the work of exploration. These agencies furnish good title-deeds to our spheres of influence, now defined by international agreements. Nyassaland. The Nyassaland Protectorate includes the country to the south and along the west shores of Lake Nyassa. In the southern por- tion of it the Shire highlands, Mount Zomba, and Blantyre are best known. On Mount Zomba coffee, sugar, and cinchona have been grown with success. The Universities Mission set to work in Nyassaland in 1860. The African Lakes Company began in 1878, and its first field of operations was between Lake Nyassa and the sea. The Company has introduced steam navigation, and has refused to sanction the liquor traffic. According to recent agree- ments in the Anglo- Portuguese Convention, the Zambesi and its affluents are a free water-way to all nations. In 1882 a complete survey was made of Lake Nyassa by Mr. J. Stewart. Tanganyika. Lake Tanganyika is connected with Lake Nyassa by a road or portage called the Stevenson Road, after Mr. James Stevenson of Largs, who has helped the development of Nyassaland. The lake has been described as a beautiful inland sea, lying 2624 feet above the level of the sea, 400 miles long, 1 5 to 50 miles wide, with a coast line of 1000 miles, and a surface of 13,000 square miles. On the east shore is Ujiji, really the name of a large tribal territory, long the depot for Oriental colonists, travellers, and Arab mer- chants. For variety of races Ujiji has been described as 'a little Egypt.' The Arabs practically rule the settlement. The ordinary route to Tanganyika is from Zanzibar, a walking distance of 836 English statute miles. The hottest time of the year is in November and February, and the coldest in July. The lake lies between 9 and 3 South latitude. On the east is the German sphere of influ- ence, reaching half-way up to the shores of the Victoria Nyanza. In course of time there must be regular communication between Lake Tanganyika and Lake Victoria Nyanza. Mr. E. Coode 304 British Colonisation Hore, resident for eleven years in Central Africa, has described Lake Tanganyika as a geographical, ethnological, and political centre which may well be termed ' the heart of Africa.' He has thus pictured the lake : ' Owing to the immense evaporation, the opposite shores, even where only fifteen miles distant, are visible only in the rainy season ; then, sailing down the centre of the lake, one realises its trough-like character, but coasting in-shore there is a great variety of scenery. Here, for 30 miles at a stretch, you sail in deep water close alongside the mountains, which rise steeply to over i oco feet, showing broad patches of rock amongst miles of beautiful trees ; again, in a few places, shallow flats only permit access to the shore by poling in canoes. Steep rocky islands, with dry soil, set out in the lake so as to be always ventilated, supply sites for residence ; and many fine natural harbours give facility for navigation. 3 x Could this region, as well as the shores of Vic- toria Nyanza, be brought into speedy communication with the Indian Ocean, huge areas would at once be at the disposal of Europeans, if not for actual occupation, still for commercial and agricultural enterprises, carried out through the aid of a vast native population. The British Imperial East Africa Company. This Company arose originally from a concession given on May 24, 1887, to Sir W. Mackinnon by the Sultan of Zanzibar. The coast-line includes the important harbours of Mombassa and Kilifi. The zone of British influence extends to the Hinterland for 360 miles to the shores of the Victoria Nyanza. To the south is the German sphere of influence, along a line that includes Mount Kilimanjaro and touches the Victoria Nyanza about the centre of the eastern shore. Within the territory of the British Imperial East Africa Company is Mount Kenia, lying on the equator, and reaching a height of 18,045 f eet - English influence extends past the Victoria Nyanza to the Albert Edward Nyanza and the Albert Nyanza. The region known as Uganda lies on the north-west coast of the Victoria Nyanza. This lake is 3300 feet above the level of the sea, has a length of 210 miles, a breadth of 225 miles, and covers an area of 26,900 square miles. The Albert Nyanza has a breadth of 20 miles and a length of 100 miles, and covers an l Tanganyika, p. 139, by Edward Coode Hore, Appendices 305 area of 1800 square miles. This lake is 2300 feet above the level of the sea. These vast sheets of water provide safe and easy commu- nication with areas of rich country. The advantages of a railway of 300 or 400 miles from Mombassa to the eastern shores of Albert Nyanza are obvious at a glance. First , it will enable travellers to pass quickly through the malarious belts of the coast, and thus save human life ; secondly , it will open up commercial posts along a long coast-line, and lead to quick developments by steamboat and portages ; thirdly, it will enable Europe to crush the slave trade by cutting off communication from the interior ; fourthly, it will enable a complete and accurate survey to be made of all parts of Equatorial Africa, of the most hidden fountains of the Nile, and open up better communication with the Congo on the west and Egypt on the north ; fifthly, it will be of immense aid to mission work. The Church Missionary Society has had a station at Mombassa since 1844, and at Uganda since 1877. SECTION I. SOUTH ATLANTIC ISLANDS. St. Helena. Area. 47 square miles. Physical Features. The island, being of volcanic origin, is rugged and mountainous, the highest peak rising to the height of 2700 feet. The island lies in the track of the south-east trade winds, and is healthy. Population. 1891,4116. Chief Town. James Town, 2233. Government. The government of the island is administered by a Governor, aided by an Executive Council of five members. Trad?. Imports, 1891, ,27,382. Exports, ,3126. Products. There are no products worth mentioning. Revenue. 1 89 1 , .6874. Expenditure, ,8288. Public Debt. 1891, .5408. Public Works. ' Munden's Battery ' is the chief public work, to which access is gained by the well-known ' Ladder,' or steps cut up the cliffs. Defence. The Imperial garrison has been reduced to thirty- three men. A local militia exists. Communication. The island is 1140 miles from Africa, 1800 miles from South America, and 760 miles south-east of Ascension. The Cape steamers call every three or five weeks. U 306 British Colonisation Chief Dates. 1502. St. Helena discovered. 1588. Cavendish sights it. 1673. Munden captures it. 1815. Napoleon imprisoned here. 1821. Death of Napoleon. 1834. St. Helena becomes a Crown colony. Tristan d'Acunha. Tristan d'Acunha and Gough Island are the chief of a group of islands in the South Atlantic out of the track of steamers. In 1815 they were taken possession of by the British, having been dis- covered in 1 506 by a Portuguese admiral named Tristan d'Acunha. Inaccessible Island is a lofty rock about two miles in length. The Nightingale Islands are three in number, rising in peaks above the sea. Ascension. Area. 38 square miles. Physical Features. The island is a mere rock of volcanic origin, its highest peak being 2820 feet. It lies in the track of the south- east trades. Population. 166, consisting of officers, marines, and kroomen. Chief Town. George Town. Government. The island is under the Board of Admiralty, and is managed in all respects as if it were a man-of-war, the captain being in charge. Products. The chief product is the sea-turtle, no less than 150 being sometimes turned in the season, i.e. from January to May. Their weight is from 500 to 800 pounds each, and their value between 2 and ^3. Communication. The island is 3417 miles from Plymouth, 760 from St. Helena, and 900 from Cape Palmas on the African coast. Chief Dates. 1501. Discovered by the Portuguese. 1815. Occupied by the British. Appendices 307 SECTION K. THE FALKLAND ISLANDS AND SOUTH GEORGIA. Lying about 200 to 300 miles to the east of the Straits of Magellan, these islands belong to the South American continent, and were very important in early times when the way to the Eastern Pacific lay along the Cape Horn route. Bourgainville, the great French explorer, settled a few French emigrants here in 1764 from Acadia and from France. The islands were called once Les Isles Malouines. The Spaniards, however, were jealous of this occupation, as well as that of the British later on, and en- deavoured to establish themselves at Port Solidad. Great Britain finally occupied them in December 20, 1832. The Buenos Ayres Republic had occupied them just previously, but were compelled to abandon them. The area of these islands is : East Falkland, 3000 square miles ; West Falkland, 2000 square miles ; adjacent islands, 1 500 square miles ; South Georgia, 1000 square miles a total of 7500 square miles. The population, of which the majority are Scotch, number (1891) 1789. The only town is Stanley (725). There is a small hamlet called Darwin. The island is very healthy. Sheep and cattle flourish well on it, and a long grass called tussac grass is very nutritious. The island is administered by a Governor and an Executive and Legislative Council, There is mail communication twelve times a year. VI. THE AUSTRALASIAN COLONIES. SECTION A. NEW SOUTH WALES. Area. 310,700 square miles, its greatest length from north to south being 680 miles, its greatest breadth 760 miles, with a coast- line of 700 miles. 1 Divisions. The colony is divided into thirteen pastoral dis- tricts, viz. : (i) Monaro, (2) Murrumbidgee, (3) Lachlan, (4) Wellington, (5) Bligh, (6) Liverpool Plains, (7) Gwydir, (8) New England, (9) Macleay, (10) Clarence, (11) Darling, (12) Albert, (13) Warrego. It is also divided into 141 counties for electoral purposes, known as the old or proclaimed counties and the new. Physical Features. The surface of New South Wales may be 1 See The Seven Colonies of Australasia, by T. A. Coghlan, p. 6. 308 British Colonisation divided into three clearly marked areas : (i) the coast district, a narrow strip with an average width of 60 or 70 miles ; (2) the table-lands, traversing the entire length of the country, and extend- ing up to 14 ist meridian ; (3) the plains of the interior, forming the chief pasture-lands of New South Wales. The chief mountains are : (i) the interior ranges ; (2) the great dividing chain ; (3) the coast ranges. The Blue Mountain range is one of the spurs of the great dividing chain, its highest point being Mount Boomarang, 4100 feet. Of these ranges Mount Kosciusko is loftiest with an elevation of 7308 feet, being about 700 feet below the line of perpetual snow. The rivers on the western watershed are the Darling, the Lachlan, the Murrum- bidgee, and the Murray. All these unite with the Murray and flow into Lake Alexandrina in South Australia. The rivers on the eastern watershed are the Hawkesbury, Hunter, Clarence, and Macleay. The plains of New South Wales are the Liverpool Plains, Monaro Plains or Brisbane Downs, South Park and Patrick's Plains on the Hunter River. Population. In 1861, 350,860; in 1871, 503,981; in 1881, 751,468; in 1891, 1,132,234. In 1891 there were 8280 aborigines in New South Wales, and 14,156 Chinese. Chief Towns. Sydney, 383,386, forming 34. 1 1 per cent, of the whole population ; Newcastle, 51,561 ; Broken Hill, 19,789 ; Parramatta, 11,677; Goulburn, 10,916; Maitland, 10,214; Ba- thurst, 9162 ; Wollongong, 8803 ; Albany, 5447 ; Orange, 5064. Government. The Government of New South Wales is of the 'responsible 3 kind (18 and 19 Viet. cap. 54), and consists of (i) a Governor appointed by the Crown ; (2) a Legislative Council of 60 members appointed by the Crown for life ; and (3) a Legisla- tive Assembly of 141 members, representing 74 electoral districts, and elected by all male subjects of Her Majesty of full age of twenty-one years, with certain exceptions. Members of the Assembly receive ^300 per annum. Voting is by ballot. Triennial Parliaments. Trade. The value of imports from countries outside Australasia, 1890, was ,11,633,283 ; exports, ^10,761,197 giving a total value of ^22,394,480, equivalent to .20, 6s. 6d. per head. The value of total i.e. external and inter-colonial trade was i 1 1890, imports, 1 In 1891, total imports, ^25,383,397 ; exports, ^"25,944,020. Appendices 309 22,61 5,004 ; exports, 22,045,937 giving a trade of 44,660,94 1. 1 With regard to the distribution of trade, the import and export trade of New South Wales with the United Kingdom, 1890, was valued at i 5,25 1,428. The trade with France, Germany, Belgium, and other countries amounted to 5,805,516. The import and ex- port trade with the Australasian colonies amounted to 22,266,460. This is exclusive of the trade with Norfolk Island, Fiji, and New Guinea, so that nearly eight-ninths of the total trade of New South Wales is under the British flag. 2 Proditcts. Wool is the chief product of New South Wales, the value of the wool exported direct from the colony, 1890, being 5,873,764, and that exported by way of the other colonies being 3,081,798, representing a total value of 8,955,562, i.e. 44 per cent, of the whole export of Australasia. In 1890, New South Wales had 333,233 acres under wheat, pro- ducing 3,649,216 bushels, and not sufficient for home consumption. The average production of wheat per acre for 1881-90 was 13.3 bushels. The colony imported, 1890, 1,798,042 bushels of wheat and flour. Maize is also a very important crop, the yield in 1890 being 5,713,205 bushels, or 64.2 per cent, of the whole Australasian yield. The crop of oats was 256,659 bushels, averaging 21.9 bushels per acre, and representing only 1.6 per cent, of the whole Australasian yield. Barley grown was 81,383 bushels, averaging 19.4 bushels per acre, and representing 2.9 per cent, of the whole yield. Of potatoes the colony produced 52,791 tons, at an average of 2.7 tons per acre, representing 9*4 per cent, of the whole yield, which is not enough for her own consumption. In 1890 she imported 39,523 tons. The area under hay was 175,242 acres, averaging 1.3 tons per acre, and representing 16.6 per cent, of the whole yield. New South Wales also produced 842,181 gallons of wine and 3355 tons of table grapes. It may be noted that New South Wales raised 26,533 tons f sugar in 1890, which is not enough for her own consumption. With regard to minerals, New South Wales raised, 1890, 3,060,876 tons of coal, valued at 1,279,089, and representing 70. i per cent, of the whole Australasian output. The amount of gold raised was 127,761 oz., valued at 460,285, representing 7.7 1 In 1891, imports from United Kingdom, 10,580,230 ; exports to, 8,855,465. 2 See Coghlan's Seven Colonies of Australia, p. 49. 3io British Colonisation per cent, of the whole Australasian yield. New South Wales is noted especially for its silver and silver-lead ore, the total value of which, 1890, was ,2,762,554, equivalent to 96 per cent, of the total value raised in Australasia. She also produced ,84,107 worth of copper, representing 26.4 per cent, of the whole Austra- lasian yield. New South Wales produced mineral wealth, 1890, to the value of 4, IDS. lod. per inhabitant. Revenue. For year ending December 1891,^10,047,152. Ex- penditure, ,10,378,603. With regard to this revenue, ,2,168,264 was raised from customs, ^3,439,283 from railways, ,648,553 from post and telegraphs, ^2,266,612 from lands. With regard to ex- penditure, ,2,357,372 was spent on railways, post and telegraphs cost ^693,473, public instruction ,756,868, interest on public debt ,1,905,636. The Public Debt, 1891, was 5 2,498, 533. It may be noted that in 1891 the total of private wealth in New South Wales was calculated by the Government statistician to be ^407,405,000, the public wealth ,172,805,000, municipal pro- perty ,6,400,000, giving a total of ,586,700,000. It has been further calculated that the private wealth equals ,363 per head of the population, and the public wealth ^154, or, together, ,517 per head. In 1881 the private wealth was calculated to be ,215 per head; thus, within ten years, 1881-91, the private wealth has nearly doubled itself. SECTION B. TASMANIA. Area. 26,215 square miles ; the greatest length from north to south being 210 miles, the greatest breadth 200 miles. The prin- cipal islands are the Furneaux group (including Flinders Island), with an area of 513,000 acres, off the north-east coast, famed for their seals, snakes, and thousands of mutton-birds (petrels) ; Cape Barren Island, 1 10,000 acres ; at the west end of Bass Straits are King's Island, 272,000 acres (notorious for its shipwrecks), Robin's Island, and Hunter's Island. On the south, opposite Hobart, are North Bruni and South Bruni Islands, where the last Tasmanian aborigines were located, with an area of 90,000 acres. Divisions. Tasmania is divided into eighteen counties, viz. Dorset, Cornwall, Devon, Wellington, Russell, Montagu, Lincoln, Westmoreland, Somerset, Glamorgan, Pembroke, Monmouth, Cumberland, Franklin, Montgomery, Arthur, Buckingham, Kent. Appendices 3 1 1 Physical Features. Tasmania has been described as an island of mountains, forests, and lakes of remarkable beauty. The Australian Alps on one side of Bass Straits and the Tasmanian peaks on the other form two groups of mountains furnishing a most distinctive feature of the geography of these latitudes. On the continent the highest elevation is about 7000 feet ; on the island the loftiest peaks are Cradle Mount, 5069 feet, Ben Lomond, 5010 feet. There are also Mounts Olympus and Ida, a Ben Nevis, 3910 feet, and a Rough Tor, not far from a river Tamar, reminding us of Cornwall and the Cornish Rough Tor in the Mother-country. The principal rivers are the Derwent, 130 miles in length ; the Huon, 100 miles ; the Tamar, the Davey, the Pie- man. There are numerous fresh-water lakes on the table-lands, the largest being the Great Lake, 3822 feet above sea-level, with an area of 28,000 acres. Tasmania is also noted for its forests. The climate being tempered by the sea breezes, the island is used as a sanatorium by Australians, and is wonderfully adapted to the European constitution. It also excels as a fruit-growing country. Population. -In 1861, 90,211; in 1871, 101,785; in 1881, 115,705; in 1891, 152,619. There are no aborigines, but 839 Chinese. Chief Towns. City of Hobart, 33,450 ; Launceston, 17,208 ; Georgetown, Longford. There is less centralisation in Tasmania than in the continental colonies, there being a longer stretch of coast-line and a greater choice of bays and harbours. The Der- went on the south affords easy access to the centre of the island. Government. The Government of Tasmania is of the * respon- sible' kind (18 Viet. No. 17), and consists of (i) a Governor appointed by the Crown ; (2) a Legislative Council of 18 members, elected by the colonists on a higher franchise than the Assembly, and holding their seats for six years ; (3) a Legislative Assembly of 36 members, representing 28 electoral districts. Election is by ballot. Members are not paid. Trade. The value of imports from countries outside Australasia, 1890, ,743,276 ; exports, 323,799 giving a total value of 1,067,075, equivalent to 7, 8s. 5d. per head. The value of total i.e. external and inter-colonial trade was : 1890, imports, 1,897,512 ; exports, 1,486,992 giving a trade of 3,384, 504.' i In 1891, imports, 2,051,964 ; exports, 3,492,782. 312 British Colonisation Products. Wool is the chief product of Tasmania, although it is the only Australasian colony in which there has been a decrease of flocks. Tasmania is noted for its stud merinos, which are ex- ported to other colonies. The value of the wool exported direct from the colony, 1890, was ,307,949, and that exported by way of the other colonies ,1 1 1,224, representing a total value of ^419,173, i.e. 2.0 per cent, of the whole export of Australasia. In 1890 Tasmania had 39,452 acres under wheat, producing 642,980 bushels, and not sufficient for home consumption. The average yield of wheat per acre for 1881-90 was 18.3 bushels. The colony imported, 1890, 234,826 bushels of wheat and flour. Tasmania does not produce maize ; but in 1890 she grew 519,395 bushels of oats, averaging 26.8 bushels per acre, and representing 3.3 per cent, of the whole Australasian yield. Barley'was 99,842 bushels, averaging 24. i bushels per acre, and representing 3.6 of the whole Australasian yield. Of potatoes this colony grew 73,158 tons, at an average of 4.0 tons per acre, representing 13.0 per cent, of the whole yield, leaving a surplus of 33,374 tons for export. The area under hay, 1890, was 45,381 acres, averaging 1.2 tons per acre, and representing 4.0 per cent, of the whole Australasian yield. Tasmania is not classed as a wine-producing colony. With regard to minerals, Tasmania raised, 1890, 53,812 tons of coal, valued at ,24,215, and representing 1*3 per cent, of the whole Australasian yield. The amount of gold raised was 23,451 oz., valued at ,87,114, representing 1.5 of the whole Australasian yield. Tasmania also produced ,26,487 worth of silver and silver- lead. Her greatest mineral export, however, was tin, of which she raised ,219,868 worth, representing more than a third of the whole Australasian yield. Tasmania produced mineral wealth, 1 890, to the value of ,2, 93. 9d. per inhabitant. Revenue. For the year ending December 1890, ,758,100. Expenditure. 722,746. With regard to the revenue of Tas- mania, ^329,067 was raised from customs, ,102,642 from rail- ways, ;6o,ioi from post and telegraphs, ,79,965 from public lands. With regard to expenditure, ;i 10,227 was taken for railways, ,67,754 for post and telegraphs, ,41,458 for public instruction, ,223,652 for interest and charges on public debt. In 1891, revenue, ,883,198 ; expenditure, ,851,559. Public Debt. June 30, 1891, ,6,718,950. Appendices 3 1 3 SECTION C. VICTORIA. Area. 87,884 square miles ; its greatest distance from east to west 480 miles, from north to south 300 miles. The coast-line is about 600 miles. Divisions. Victoria is divided intoTour districts : (i) Gippsland, (2) the Murray, (3) Wimmera, (4) Loddon. It is also divided into thirty-seven counties. Physical Features. A range of mountains traverses the entire length of the colony, the highest peaks being Bogong, 6508 feet ; Feathertop, 6393 feet ; Hotham, 6100 feet, at a distance of 60 or 70 miles from the sea-coast. This is called the dividing range, and all the Victorian rivers have their sources here : those to the north running to the Murray, and those on the south emptying into the sea. With the exception of the Murray, the Goulburn, and Yarra-Yarra, none of the Victorian rivers are navigable. The smaller rivers in Australia are called creeks, and dwindle down in dry weather ; in winter time they become torrents. The climate of Melbourne is healthy, and resembles that of Marseilles. The thermometer rarely falls below freezing point, and ' a cloudless sky, a bright sun, and refreshing breeze are characteristic of the greater number of days in each of the seasons. 3 Occasionally the heat is very great at Melbourne. Population. In 1861, 540,322; in 1871, 731,528; in 1881, 862,346; in 1891, 1,140,405. In 1891 there were 565 aborigines and 8489 Chinese. Chief Towns. Melbourne, 490,902, forming 43.09 of the whole population ; Ballarat, 46,033 ; Bendigo, 37,238 ; Geelong, 24,210 ; Castlemaine, 6802 ; Stawell, 5191. Government. The Government of Victoria is of the 'responsible ' kind (18 and 19 Viet. cap. 55), and consists of: (i) a Governor appointed by the Crown ; (2) a Legislative Council of 48 members, elected for 14 provinces, each member retiring in rotation and holding office for six years ; (3) a Legislative Assembly of 95, representing 84 electoral districts. The Council is elected by voters with property qualifications ; the Assembly by manhood suffrage. Members of the Council are not paid ; members of the Assembly are paid ^300 per annum. The Council resembles our House of Lords in many of its functions. Money bills may be accepted or rejected. The Council cannot be dissolved by the Governor. Voting is by ballot. Triennial Parliaments. 314 British Colonisation Trade. The value of imports from countries outside Australasia, 1890, was .14,428,256 ; exports, ,9,202,1 16 giving a total value of ,23,630,372, equivalent to ,21, 2s. 7d. per head. The value of the total external and inter-colonial trade was : 1890, imports, ,22,954,01 5 ; exports, ,13,266,222 giving a trade 0^36,220,237.* Products. Wool is the chief product of Victoria, the value of the wool exported direct from the colony, 1890, being ,2,671,802, that exported by way of the other colonies ,71,562, representing a total value of ,2,743,364, i.e. 13.5 per cent, of the whole export of Australasia. Victoria is, together with Queensland, an important gold-pro- ducing colony, the amount of gold raised, 1890, being 610,587 ounces, valued at ,2,354,244, or 39.2 per cent, of the whole Australasian yield. The production of gold in Victoria from 1851, the first discovery, to 1890 has been calculated to be worth ,227,482,296, which represents 66.5 of the whole Australasian yield. 2 In 1890 there were, in Victoria, 1,145,163 acres under wheat, producing 12,751,295 bushels, equivalent to 38.8 per cent, of the whole Australasian yield, more than sufficient for home consump- tion. In 1890 the colony exported 2,297,872 bushels. The average production of wheat per acre for 1881-1890 was 10. i bushels. Maize is not an important crop in Victoria, the yield in 1890 being only 574,083 bushels, or 6.4 per cent, of the whole Australasian yield. The crop of oats was, 1890, 4,919,325 bushels, averaging 22.6 bushels per acre, and representing 31.1 of the whole yield. Barley was 1,571,599 bushels, averaging 18.6 bushels per acre, and representing 56.4 per cent, of the whole yield. Of potatoes the colony produced 204,155 tons, at an average of 3.7 tons per acre, representing 36.3 per cent, of the whole Australasian yield, and enabling her to export, 1890, 1635 tons. The area under hay was 413,052 acres, averaging 1.2 tons per acre, and representing 44.3 per cent, of the whole yield. Victoria also produced 2,008,493 gallons of wine and 3177 tons of table grapes. On comparison, therefore, it will be seen that Victoria, with an area of only about one-fourth of that of New South Wales, pro- duces far larger quantities of wheat, oats, barley, hay, potatoes, and wine. 3 It is, therefore, infinitely richer in its food supply and necessaries of life. 1 In 1891, imports, ^21, 111,608 ; exports, ^37,718,351. 2 See The Seven Colonies of Australasia, p. 129, by T. A. Coghlan, 1892. 3 Ibid, passim. Appendices 3 1 5 The silver production of Victoria is small its value, 1890, being ,4869, representing only 0.2 per cent. Her coal supply is also very limited, the production for the same year being only 57,962 tons, valued at ^53,655, equivalent to 0.2 per cent, of the whole Australasian yield. New South Wales is far richer in coal and silver. Victoria produced mineral wealth, 1890, to the value of 2, 2s. 8d. per inhabitant. Revenue. For the year ending June 1891, ^8,343,588. Ex- penditure, ,9,128,699. With regard to the revenue of Victoria, ,2,525,572 was raised from customs, ^3,306,580 from railways, .499,506 from post and telegraphs, ,613,068 from public lands. With regard to expenditure, 2,469,800 was taken for railways, ,744,096 for post and telegraphs, ^775,124 for public instruction, /i, 646,884 for interest and charges on public debt. The Public Debt, June 30, 1891, was ,43,482,797. SECTION D. WESTERN AUSTRALIA. Area. 1,057,250 square miles, extending 1280 miles from north to south and 800 miles from east to west. This is the largest of the Australasian colonies. It is nearest to India, Singapore, and Batavia. Its coast-line is 3000 miles. Divisions. The colony is divided into six land districts : (r) the South- Western Division, (2) Gascoyne, (3) North-Western Division, (4) Kimberley, (5) Eucla, (6) Eastern Division. There are also twenty-six counties in the settled parts. Physical Features. The colony of Western Australia has been termed the giant skeleton of a colony, thinly inhabited, and stretching over vast expanses of country. It is thus described by a late Governor, Sir F. A. Weld : ' The whole country, from north to south, excepting the spots cleared for cultivation, may be described as one vast forest in the sense of being heavily timbered : sometimes, but comparatively seldom, the traveller comes across an open, sandy plain covered with shrubs and flowering plants in infinite variety and exquisite beauty, and often, especially in the northern and eastern districts, low, scrubby trees and bushes fill the place of timber ; but taking the word * forest ' in its widest sense, as wild, woody, and bushy country Western Australia, as far as I have seen, is covered with one vast forest stretching far away into regions yet unexplored.' 316 British Colonisation Population. In 1861, 15,691 ; in 1871, 25,353 5 in l88l > 29,708 ; in 1891, 49,782. In 1891 there were 6245 aborigines in Western Australia and 917 Chinese. Chief Towns. Perth, 8447 ; Fremantle, 5607 ; both these towns containing about one-third of the whole population. Other towns are : Albany, Geraldton, York, Bunbury, Guildford, Northampton. Government. The Government of Western Australia is of the 'responsible' kind (53 and 54 Viet. cap. 26), and has come into existence very recently. It consists of (i) a Governor appointed by the Crown ; (2) a Legislative Council of 1 5 members nominated by the Crown ; (3) a Legislative Assembly of 30 members. Trade. The value of imports from countries outside Australasia, 1890, was ,512,608; exports, ,483,380 giving a total value of ,995,988, equivalent to .21, 2s. 2d. per head. The value of total i.e. external and inter-colonial trade was : 1890, imports, .874,447; exports, .671,813 giving a 'trade of ,1,546,260. In 1891, imports, ,1,280,093 ; exports, ,799,466. Products. The wool exported direct was ^248,137, and that exported by way of the other colonies ,13,215, representing a total value of ^261,352, i.e. 1.3 per cent, of the whole export of Australasia. In 1890 Western Australia had 33,820 acres under wheat, producing 465,025 bushels not enough for home consump- tion. The average production of wheat per acre for 1881-1890 was 1 1.8 bushels. The colony imported, 1890, 136,725 bushels of wheat and flour. Western Australia grows very little maize, unlike Queensland and New South Wales. The crop of oats was only 37,713 bushels, the colony importing 100,136 bushels. Barley was 87,813 bushels, averaging 14.8 bushels per acre, and representing only 3.1 of the whole yield. Of potatoes the colony only produced 1655 tons, at an average of 2.9 tons per acre, representing 0.3 per cent, of the whole yield, and not enough for her own consumption. In 1890 she imported 936 tons. The area under hay was 23,183 acres, averaging i.o ton per acre, representing 2.1 of the whole yield. Western Australia also produced 194,465 gallons of wine. With regard to minerals, Western Australia is not a coal-pro- ducing colony. The amount of gold raised in 1890 was 22,256 ounces, valued at ,86,664, representing 1.4 of the whole Australasian yield. Western Australia is not a silver-producing colony ; and her copper-mines produced, 1890, ,140,000 worth of metal, repre- Appendices 3 1 7 senting only 0.5 of whole yield. Still, Western Australia produced, 1890, minerals to the value of 2 for each inhabitant. Revenue. Yor the year ending December 1891, ^497,670. Expenditure , .435,623. With regard to the revenue, .237,697 was raised from customs, ,65,710 from railways, ,31,336 from post and telegraphs, ; 101,981 from lands. With regard to expenditure, ,68,348 was spent on railways, 4 1,2 43 on post and telegraphs, ,12,486 on puhlic instruction, ,76,772 as interest on public debt. The Public Debt in 1891 was ,1,613,594. SECTION E. SOUTH AUSTRALIA. A rea.- 380,070 square miles ; its greatest length from north to south being 1850 miles, and the width 650 miles, with a coast-line of 2000 miles. Divisions. The colony is divided into four pastoral districts : (i) the Eastern, with an area of 4840 square miles ; (2) the Western, 15,641 square miles; (3) the Northern, 123,853 square miles; (4) the North-eastern, 28,126 square miles. It is also divided into thirty-nine counties, including an area of 66,558 square miles. It is also divided into * hundreds ' and district councils : the former being blocks of country thrown open for agricultural settlement on annual leases, the latter being areas of what may be described as municipal jurisdiction. The northern territory seems to be a mere appendage to the old settlements of the south, separated by a vast desert, and connected only by the telegraph wire. Physical Features. There are three ranges of mountains : (1) Mount Lofty, 2334 feet, almost overshadowing Adelaide ; (2) the Flinders Range, extending for hundreds of miles north- wards from Spencer's Gulf, the highest points being Mount Remarkable, 3100 feet, and Mount Brown, 3100 feet; (3) the Hummocks, extending northwards from St. Vincent's Gulf. The chief rivers are the Murray, navigable from beyond Albany in New South Wales, emptying into Lake Alexandrina, and thence into the sea by the Murray mouth ; the Torrens ; and in the northern territory the Roper, navigable for nearly 100 miles from the Gulf of Carpentaria. The largest island is Kangaroo Island, 85 miles long and 30 miles broad, at the mouth of Gulf St. Vincent. Lake Torrens is a vast inland salt lake ; Lakes Eyre and Gardner are also salt lakes. There are also several curious volcanic fresh- 318 British Colonisation water lakes, such as Blue Lake. The interior is a vast Sahara, traversed with difficulty. Population. In 1861, 126,830; in 1871, 185,626; in 1881, 279,865 ; in 1891, 320,431. In 1891 there were 23,789 aborigines and 3676 Chinese. Chief Towns. Adelaide, 133,252, representing 41.58 per cent, of the whole population ; also Port Adelaide, 15,976 ; Gawler, on the Gawler River ; Kapunda, the site of the copper-mines ; Kooringa, 1 01 miles from Adelaide ; Mount Gambier, the largest of the eastern towns, close to the extinct volcano, and the centre of what is termed the Garden of the Colony ; Petersburg ; Port Victor, near Encounter Bay ; and Wollaroo, the seaport of a mining district. Government. The Government of South Australia is of the 'responsible' kind (13 and 14 Viet. cap. 59), and consists of (i) a Governor appointed by the Crown ; (2) a Legislative Council of 24 members, retiring in rotation after certain intervals, and elected on a higher franchise than the members of the Assembly ; and (3) a Legislative Assembly of 52 members, elected by all male subjects of Her Majesty of full age of twenty-one years, a natural-born or naturalised subject. Members both of the Council and Assembly are paid. Voting is by ballot. Triennial parlia- ments. Trade. The value of imports from countries outside Australasia was, 1890, ,3,500,013 ; exports, $,333,729 giving a total value of ,8,833,742, equivalent to 27, 145. 8d. per head. The value of total external and inter-colonial trade was : 1890, imports, .8,333,783; exports, 8,961,982 giving a trade of 17,295,765. In 1891, imports, 9,95 6 ,542 ; exports, 10,512,049. It may be observed that the enormous impetus given to South Australian trade since 1881 is one of the marked features of Australasian statistics. Some of it, however, can be traced to the development of the Barrier district of New South Wales, of which South Australia is the natural outlet. Products. Wool stands second in value amongst the products of South Australia, the value of wool exported direct from the colony, 1890, being 1,075,255, and that exported by way of the other colonies 220,496, representing a total value of 1,295,751, i.e. 6.4 per cent, of the whole export of Australasia. In 1890 South Australia had 1,673,573 acres under wheat, pro- Appendices 319 ducing 9,399,389 bushels, enabling her to export 10,959,102 bushels, a most important article of export, at 45. 3d. per bushel, and exceed- ing the value of the wool export. The average production of wheat per acre for 1881-90 was 6.0 bushels. Maize is not returned as a product of South Australia, and the crop of oats for 1890 was only 116,229 bushels, averaging n.6 bushels per acre, and repre- senting only 0.8 per cent, of the whole Australasian yield. The barley grown was 175,583 bushels, averaging 12.4 bushels per acre, and representing 6.3 per cent, of the whole yield. Of potatoes the colony produced 23,963 tons, at an average of 3.5 tons per acre, representing 4.3 per cent, of the whole yield, which is not enough for her own consumption, as she imported 2783 tons in 1890. The area under hay was 345,150 acres, averaging i.o ton per acre, representing 24.2 per cent, of the whole yield. South Australia produced 762,776 gallons of wine and 5631 tons of table grapes. With regard to minerals, South Australia does not produce coal, and her production of gold was only 26,086 oz., valued at ,101,577, representing 1.7 of the whole Australasian yield. Of silver she produced an amount to the value of ,12,819, representing 0.4 of the whole yield. South Australia is the great copper-producing colony, and in 1890 she was credited with ,231,592 worth of this mineral, representing 72.7 per cent, of the whole Australasian out- put. Up to 1890 she had produced .19,751,450 worth. The colony produced mineral wealth, 1890, to the value of i t 35. iid. per inhabitant. Revenue. For year ending June 1891, ,2,732,222. Expendi- ture, ,2,603,498. With regard to this revenue, ,615,266 was raised from customs, .1,198,157 from railways, ,214,027 from post and telegraphs, ,245,513 from lands. With regard to the expendi- ture, ,620,229 was spent on railways, ,188,327 on post and tele- graphs, ,136,482 on public instruction, .827,993 on interest on public debt. Public Debt. 1891, ,21,776,032. SECTION F. QUEENSLAND. Area. 668,497 square miles ; its greatest length from north to south being 1300 miles, the breadth 800 miles, with a coast-line of 2550 miles. Divisions. Queensland is divided into twelve large districts : (i) Moreton, (2) Darling Downs, (3) Burnett, (4) Port Curtis, 320 British Colonisation (5) Maranoa, (6) Leichhardt, (7) Kennedy, (8) Mitchell, (9) War- rego, (10) Gregory, (u) Burke, (12) Cook. It is also divided into financial districts, (i) the southern, (2) the central, '(3) the northern. It has been proposed recently to divide Queensland into two separate colonies : the line of demarcation running west from Cape Palmerston on the east coast in South latitude 21 30' to the eastern boundary of South Australia. The area would be 249,000 square miles ; population, 50,000. Physical Features. Off the east coast the great Barrier Reefs, running parallel with the coast at a distance of 10 to 100 miles, are a peculiar feature, very dangerous to early navigators. A coast range of mountains runs from York Peninsula nearly to Brisbane at an average distance of 50 miles from the coast. The main range or great dividing range runs inland of the coast range, and is a continuation of the Cordillera of New South Wales and Victoria, extending north to latitude 21 and thence west. Cape York Peninsula, which runs up in the form of a pyramid into the waters of Torres Straits, is a notable feature. There are many harbours, of which Moreton Harbour is the chief, receiving the waters of six rivers. The surface of Queensland may be divided into three portions : (i) a coast district, consisting of a narrow strip lying along the coast, traversed by numerous rivers ; (2) a highland region, including the spurs of the coast range ; (3) level tracts ex- tending westward to the South Australian boundary line. The conditions of Queensland are those of a colony lying partly in a tropical and partly in a sub-tropical zone. This implies a variation of products and industries practically unknown in the other Aus- tralian colonies, although, of course, South and West Australia have tropical provinces. Population. In 1861, 30,059; in 1871, 120,104; m 1881, 213,525 ; in 1891, 393,718, representing a quicker increase since 1 86 1 than any other Australasian colony. In 1891 there were said to be over 70,000 natives in Queensland and 8574 Chinese. There are also said to be 9000 or 10,000 kanakas, or Polynesian labourers, coming under indentures from the Pacific Islands to the sugar estates. Chief Towns. Brisbane, 101,564, forming 25.80 per cent, of the whole population; Rockhampton, 13,380; Maryborough, 8700; Townsville, 8564 ; Gympie, 8449 ; Ipswich, 7625 ; Toowoomba, 7007. Government. The Government of Queensland is of the 'respon- Appendices 321 sible' kind (June 1859), and consists of: (i) a Governor; (2) a Legislative Council of 39 members nominated by the Governor, and holding office for life ; (3) a Legislative Assembly of .72 members, representing 60 electoral districts, and elected by all male sub- jects of Her Majesty of full age of twenty-one years, after a six months' residence in one locality. The terms of the electoral franchise are high, necessitating, inter alia^ a freehold qualification of .100 per annum or a receipt of ,100 per annum salary. Mem- bers receive .300 per annum. Voting is by ballot. Quinquennial Parliaments. Trade. The value of imports from countries outside Australasia, 1890, was .2,502,008 ; exports, ,2,449,658 giving a total value of ^4,95 1,666, equivalent to .12, 145. nd. per head. The value of total i.e. external and inter-colonial trade was : 1890, imports, ,5,066,700; exports, ,8,554,512 giving a trade of ^13,621,212. In 1891, imports, .5,079,004 ; exports, ,8,305,387. Products. The value of the wool exported direct from the colony was ,1,821,988, and that exported by way of the other colonies being ,702,754, representing a total value of .2,524,742, i.e. 12.4 per cent, of the whole export of Australasia. In 1890 Queensland had only 10,390 acres under wheat, producing 207,990 bushels, and totally insufficient for home consumption. The average production of wheat per acre for 1881-1890 was 10.5 bushels. The colony imported no less than 2,295,459 bushels of wheat and flour. Maize is the principal crop grown in Queens- land, the yield in 1890 being 2,373,803 bushels, or 23.4 per cent, of the whole Australasian yield. The crop of oats was only 8967 bushels, that of barley only 12,673 bushels. Of potatoes the colony produced 28,810 tons, averaging 3.1 tons per acre, representing 5.1 per cent, of the whole yield, not sufficient for her own consump- tion. In 1890 she imported 15,01 1 tons. The area under hay was 31,106 acres, averaging 1.7 tons per acre, representing only 3.9 of the whole yield. Queensland also produced 189,274 gallons of wine and 1074 tons of table grapes. The sugar industry is peculiar to Queensland, together with New South Wales. In 1890 there were in the former colony 50,922 acres planted, producing 69,983 tons. Queensland was enabled to export, 1890, 40,521 tons, valued at ,695,892. With regard to minerals, Queensland raised, 1890, 338,344 tons of coal, valued at ,157,077, and representing 8.6 of the whole Aus- x 322 British Colonisation tralasian output, and ranking with New South Wales and New Zealand as a coal-producing colony. The amount of gold raised was 610,587 oz., valued at ,2,137,054, representing 35.6 of the whole Australasian yield, and placing Queensland next only to Victoria as a gold-producing colony. Queensland also produced ^56,639 worth of silver, representing 2.0 per cent, of the whole yield. Queensland produced, 1890, mineral wealth to the value of ;6, gs. 8d. per inhabitant, the highest average of all the Australasian colonies. Revenue. For year ending June 1891, ^3,350,223. Expendi- ture, ,3,684,655. With regard to this revenue, ^1,261,757 was raised from customs, ,882,762 from railways, .218,801 from post and telegraphs, ,534,342 from public lands. With regard to expenditure, .639,597 was spent on railways, ^333,048 on post and telegraphs, .266,304 on public instruction, whilst ; 1,139,034 was taken for the charges on the public debt. Public Debt. 1891, .29,578,384. SECTION G. NEW GUINEA. In November 1884 the British protectorate was proclaimed over the south coast of New Guinea to the eastward of I4ist meridian of E. longitude. In 1882 the Queensland Government had sent Captain Chester to annex it, but the act was disallowed at home. In December 1884 a German squadron hoisted the German flag on the north coast of New Guinea, from the I4ist meridian to Huon Gulf, and in Admiralty, Hermit, Anchorite, New Britain, and New Ireland groups, the latter being named King William's Land. The discovery of New Guinea dates back to 1526, when the island was sighted by Don George de Menesis, a Portuguese sailor, who was driven out of his course in voyaging from Malacca to the Moluccas. He called it Papua. In 1643 Abel Tasman explored part of the coast, and in 1699 Dampier circumnavigated the island. In 1770 Cook sailed along the coast, and in 1792 Dentrecasteaux visited it. In 1846-50 Captain Owen Stanley sur- veyed a portion of the coast. The earliest attempt at settlement by Europeans was made by a Dutchman, Captain Steenboem, in 1828 ; but the establishment of the London Missionary Society in 1871 resulted in throwing most light upon the island. In 1873 Captain Moresby discovered and named Port Moresby on the south-east coast. The British authorities were induced to annex Appendices 323 South-East Guinea, from the fear lest any European Power should plant itself there as a menace to Australia, or convert any portion of it into a penal settlement, as France has converted New Cale- donia. Area of New Guinea. 305,900 square miles, of which it is calculated 86,360 are British, 68,785 German, and 150,755 Dutch. It is 1400 miles in length, and 450 miles in breadth. Physical Features. 'An extended map of New Guinea looks much like a dromedary. The head rises from Geelvink Bay on the north, and the throat is formed by the M'Clure inlet on the west. Then eastward from Geelvink Bay the island increases in bulk until you come to the broadest part, about 450 miles, narrow- ing again until you reach the peninsula, which is most mountain- ous. In some places, on both the north and south-east coasts, the mountains rise precipitous from the sea, and end in the east in the two prongs, between which is Sir John Milne Bay.' 1 It is con- jectured that there are about 460,000 natives in British New Guinea. Around the mouth of the Fly River are found large native houses. In the swamps, streets of houses are built on piles, and in the Motu district are several villages built in the sea. Yams, sago, the sugar-cane are grown. The island is fertile, though unhealthy. There are forty-two mission stations, chiefly conducted by Polynesian native teachers. There has been great mortality amongst these teachers no fewer than 103 having died out of 201 imported since 1871. Comparatively little is known of the interior of this vast tropical island, although only 90 miles dis- tant from Australia. It is not fitted to be a home of European immigrants. From its geographical situation it is more closely connected with Queensland than any other colony. Murray Island, which lies midway between Queensland and New Guinea, has been joined to Queensland. In a certain sense British New Guinea may be regarded as an annexe of Queensland. SECTION H. NEW ZEALAND. Area. 104,471 square miles. The North Island has a length of about 515 miles, and a breadth of about 250 miles, with a coast- line of 2200 miles. The South Island, or, as it is officially called, 1 Paper by Mr. Chalmers, Proceedings of the Royal Colonial Institute, vol. xviii. 324 British Colonisation the Middle Island, has a length of about 525 miles, and a breadth of about 1 80, with a coast-line of 2000 miles. Amongst the islands of New Zealand are Stewart Island, with an area of 665 square miles, the Chatham, the Auckland, the Campbell, the Bounty Islands. Divisions. New Zealand is divided into nine provincial dis- tricts : Auckland, Taranaki, Wellington, Nelson, Canterbury, Otago, Hawke's Bay, Marlborough, Southland. It is also divided into sixty-three counties. Physical Features. The most striking feature of New Zealand geography is a mountain range running the whole length of the two islands in the direction of south-west to north-east. Amongst the highest peaks are Mount Cook, 12,349 feet ; Mount Hoch- stetter, 11,200 feet; Mount Egmont, 8300 feet; Tongariro, an active volcano, 6500 feet. In the South Island are the Southern Alps, stretching along a distance of 200 miles. The Canterbury Plains, the largest in New Zealand, are also a notable feature. The two islands are separated from one another by Cook Strait. By the nearest line, from point to point, New Zealand is 1175 miles from New South Wales. Population In 1861, 99,021; in 1871, 256,393; in 1881, 489,933 ; in 1891, 626,658. In 1891 there were 41,523 Maoris, and 4292 Chinese. Chief Towns. Auckland, 51,127; Christchurch, 47,846; Dun- edin, 45,865 ; Wellington, 33,224 ; Invercargill, 8551 ; Napier, 8341 ; Nelson, 6626 ; Oamaru, 5621 ; Wanganui, 5011. In New Zealand the population is more evenly distributed than in the other Australasian colonies. Government. The Government of New Zealand is of the ' re- sponsible ' kind (1852), and consists of (i) a Governor appointed by the Crown ; (2) a Legislative Council of 40 members appointed by the Crown for life ; (3) a House of Representatives of 74 members, including 4 Maoris, elected by adult males on the six months residential qualification. Members of the Council receive 100 for every session, if resident more than three miles from the Assembly Buildings ; and members of the House of Representa- tives receive 100 for every session. Triennial Parliaments. Trade. The value of the imports from countries outside Aus- tralasia was ,5,172,932 ; exports, 8,177,472 giving a total value of 13,350,404, equivalent to 21, 95. lod. per head. The value of Appendices 325 total i.e. external and inter-colonial trade was : 1890, imports, 6,260,525; exports, ,9,811,720 giving a trade of ^16,072,245. In 1891, imports, ,6,503,849 ; exports, 9,06,397- Products. The wool exported direct, 1890, was worth ,4,139,924, and that exported by way of other colonies ,9465, representing a total value of ,4,149,389, i.e. 20.4 per cent, of the whole export of Australasia. In 1890 New Zealand had 301,460 acres under wheat, producing 5,723,610 bushels more than enough for home consumption. The average production of wheat per acre for 1881-90 was 24.5 bushels. The colony exported 4,943,652 bushels in 1890. The maize crop yielded 238,864 bushels, and the crop of oats was 9,947,036, averaging 31.0 bushels per acre, and representing 62.9 per cent, of the whole Australasian yield. The barley grown was 758,833 bushels, averaging 27.8 bushels per acre, and representing 27.2 per cent, of the whole yield. Of potatoes, the colony produced 178,121 tons, at an average of 5.2 tons per acre, representing 31.6 per cent, of the whole yield, and allowing her to export 28,872 tons. It will therefore be seen that for wheat, oats, barley, and potatoes the yield per acre is higher than in any other colony. The area under hay was 44,045 acres, averaging 1.4 tons per acre, and representing 4.9 of the whole yield. New Zealand is not returned as a wine- and grape-producing country. With regard to minerals, New Zealand raised, 1890, 635,481 tons of coal, valued at .349,936, and representing 19.2 of the whole Australasian output. The amount of gold raised was 193,193 oz., valued at 773,438, representing 12.9 per cent, of the whole Aus- tralasian yield. Of silver, New Zealand only raised 6162 worth in 1890, representing 0.2 per cent, of the whole yield. New Zealand produced mineral wealth, 1890, to the value of ,2, gs. id. per inhabitant. Revenue. For the year ending December 1890, .4, 193,942. Expenditure, 4,081,566. With regard to this revenue, .1,535,868 was raised from customs, 1,143,989 from railways, .338,315 from post and telegraphs, 330,956 from public lands. With regard to expenditure, .725,332 was spent on railways, .257,684 on post and telegraphs, ^397,885 on public instruction, ,1,640,289 on charges on the public debt. The Public Debt, March 31, 1891, was 38,830,350. From the above figures some general conclusions may be 326 British Colonisation gathered especially with regard to the distribution of industries. It will be noticed that New South Wales figures as the great wool-producing colony her share of the export being no less than 44 per cent. She also exports 96 per cent, of the silver raised in Australasia ; and her coal is also an exceptional source of wealth, the amount raised, 1890, being more than 70 per cent, of the whole. She also raises more than 30 per cent, of the tin. As far as mineral wealth is concerned, New South Wales is amply endowed. Victoria, however, stands pre-eminent as the great gold-producing colony (39.2 per cent.), although Queensland (35.6 per cent.), owing to the richness of the Mount Morgan mines, is running her close. South Australia produces more than 70 per cent, of the copper. The wealth of New Zealand in coal (19.2 per cent.), in gold (12.9 per cent.), is considerable. When we come to crops and cereals, the variations of industries are remarkable. Wheat, oats, barley, potatoes grow best in New Zealand ; but the importance of Australasia as a producer of wheat is small when compared with the rest of the world. The greatest amount of wheat is grown in South Australia, and together with Victoria and New Zealand it is able to export some of its surplus. Both Queensland and New South Wales are compelled to import largely. New Zealand (62.9 per cent.) and Victoria (31.1 per cent.) are the great oat-growing countries, whilst New South Wales (64.2 per cent.) and Queensland (26.7 percent.) produce the largest amount of maize. Victoria (50.4 per cent.) and New Zealand (27.2 per cent.) are the great barley-growing colonies, and produce, also, 36.3 per cent, and 31.6 per cent, of the whole crop of potatoes. With regard to other industries, New South Wales and Queens- land are the only sugar-producing colonies, whilst South Australia and Victoria are most successful with the wine industry. There is no article, however, so valuable to Australasia as wool. SECTION I. FIJI. Area. 7400 square miles. There are about 250 islands, of which half are inhabited. The largest are Viti Levu, 4200 square miles, and Vanua Levu, 2400 square miles. Other islands are Taviuni, 217 square miles; Kandavu, 124 square miles; Ovalu, where the old capital of Fiji, Levuka, is situated ; and Gau, Lakeba, Koro, and Mago. Appendices 327 Divisions. The island is divided into fourteen provinces, each under the control of a Roko Tui, or chief native officer. Physical Features. The whole group lies within the tropics, and in the track of the south-east trades. The islands are all mountainous, more or less. Some peaks rise to the height of 3000 to 4000 feet. Nearly all the islands are surrounded by coral reefs. Many of them are of volcanic origin, and hot springs are found there as in the West Indies. Viti Levu is the only island with rivers of any importance, viz. the Rewa, Navua, Siga, Tokacond : these permit of navigation to the unusual extent, for an island, often or twenty miles. There are many good harbours and anchorages. At times the rainfall is very heavy, and hurricanes occasionally occur. These are not so violent as in Mauritius and the West Indies. 1 Population. 1891, 121,180, of whom 110,871 are native Fijians, 6311 Indian immigrants, 1988 Europeans, with a mixture of Polynesians, half-castes, and Chinese. Nearly half of the inhabi- tants live on Viti Levu. Chief Towns. Suva, the capital, on Viti Levu (700) ; Levuka. Government. Fiji is a Crown colony, and is administered by (i) a Governor nominated by the Crown; (2) an Executive Council ; (3) a Legislative Council of six official and six non- official nominated members. The natives live under a system of village councils. Trade. 1891, imports, ^259,049. Exports, 474*334- Nearly the whole of Fiji imports and exports is with British colonies. 'Their trade (1872-1886) was chiefly carried on with New South Wales, Victoria, and New Zealand. The imports and exports from and to British possessions were respectively 87 per cent, and 79 per cent. The same from and to the United Kingdom were only 9 per cent, and 7 per cent.' 2 In 1891, the imports from United Kingdom were .195. Products. Sugar is the most important product. Bananas come next, cocoa-nuts, tea, tobacco, vanilla. Coffee-growing has been tried, but has failed owing to the attacks of the Acarus coffece. Indian corn is grown by the natives. Revenue. 1891, ,71,250. Expenditure, ,67,820. Public De&t.i>, ^246,690. 1 Paper on 'Agriculture in Fiji,' Proceedings of the Royal Colonial Insti- tute, vol. xxi. 2 Sir Rawson W. Rawson. 328 British Colonisation THE GILBERT ISLANDS. The Gilbert Archipelago, over which a British protectorate has recently been proclaimed, lies across the equator in longitude 170 and 1 80 E., to the north-west of the Fiji group. It consists of 16 atolls, many of them triangulai in shape. It was discovered by Marshall and Gilbert in 1788. The inhabitants are described as a mixed Malayo-Polynesian race, and supply the labour market of Fiji. They are known as Tokalaus in the Pacific. Apimama is one of the chief islands. The group has been visited by German traders from Apia, who import Hamburg gin in large quantities. Cocoa-nuts and copra are the chief products. Since 1877 these islands, together with the southern Solomon Islands, the New Hebrides, the Tongan or Friendly Islands, the Samoan or Navigators' Islands, and other small islands in Melanesia, have fallen under the High Commissioner of the West Pacific. The object of this Commission has been to carry out the Pacific Islanders Protection Acts, 1872 and 1875, anc ^ to provide a civil court for settlement of disputes between British subjects. It covered, indeed, all islands not included in Fiji, Queensland, or New South Wales, or claimed by any foreign Power. The following are some general statistics, 1891, of the seven ' responsible ' colonies of Australasia : Religious Denominations. Number. Church of England, . . . .1,516,190 Roman Catholic, .... 829,180 Presbyterian, ..... 495,830 Wesleyans and Primitive Methodists, . . 440,680 Congregational,. . . . . 78,120 Baptist, . ... . . . 84,340 Lutheran, ..... 75.240 Salvation Army, .... 42,820 Unitarian, ..... 4> 2 3 Other Protestants, . . 49>77o Hebrews, ..... 14,820 Pagans, . . . 49,5^0 Unclassed, . 129,280 3,810,080 Appendices 329 State-aided Immigrants to 1890. Prior to 1890. 1881-90. Total. New South Wales, . 114,253 34,79 148,332 Victoria,. . . 140,102 140,102 Queensland, . . 52,399 103,140 155,539 South Australia, . 88,050 7,298 95,348 West Australia, . . 889 4,552 5,441 Tasmania, . 18,965 2,734 21,699 New Zealand, . . 100,920 14,614 515,578 166,417 681,995 Of late years State-aided immigration to the Australasian colonies has practically ceased. Distribution of Trade in Australasia. The greater portion of the trade of Australasia viz. about three- quarters is with the United Kingdom ; the remainder is carried on with the United States, France, Germany, and Belgium. This foreign trade, especially with Belgium, is growing. The steamers of the Messageries Maritimes (1883), of the Nord Deutscher Lloyd Company of Bremen (1887), testify to its im- portance. The following is a statistical account of the external trade of Australasia in 1881 and 1890-91 : 1881. 1890-91 With the United Kingdom (exports and imports), . . . ^50,004,607 56,363,91 1 British possessions (exports and imports), . . 7,336,156 5,476,404 Foreign countries .... 7,213,915 13,383,412 ^64,554,678 ^75,2.23,727 In 1 88 1 the trade with the United Kingdom constituted 77.4 per cent. ; in 1890 this was reduced to 74.9 per cent. That with British possessions had also decreased from 11.4 to 7.3, whilst that with foreign countries had increased from 11.2 to 17.8 per cent. 1 The best prospects of expansion for Australasian trade lie in the East, especially with India, China, Japan, and the East Indian Archipelago. A large business, especially in tea, is done with the 1 The Seven Colonies of Australasia, by T. A. Coghlan, p. 32. 330 British Colonisation island of Ceylon. The bulk of the South Pacific trade is with Fiji and New Caledonia. A glance at the conditions and prospects of Australasian trade proves at once the paramount importance to the colonists of naval defence and a system of naval co-operation with the Mother-country. A safe passage to Antwerp and Ham- burg is becoming more and more essential to Australasian pro- sperity. Australasian Railways. New South Wales, Victoria, Queensland, . South Australia, . Western Australia, Tasmania, New Zealand, Miles of Line. Gauge. Ft. In. 2,263 4 8J 2,763 5 3 2,195 3 6 1,829 | 5 3l 3 6f 585 3 6 399 3 6 1,956 3 6 11,990 Total Cost. Cost per mile. ^31,768,617 36,341,626 15,101,617 ,14,559 13,153 6,487 12,544,733 6,923 832,497 2,900,362 14,278,586 4,204 8,269 7,752 ^113,768,038 ^10,030 The average interest on all Australasian loans is 4.02 per cent., and the returns yielded by the railways is 3.01 per cent, showing a loss in working of i.oi per cent., equivalent to ;i, 149,150.* Defence Forces of Australasia, 1890. New South Wales, Victoria, Queensland, South Australia, . Western Australia, Tasmania, . New Zealand, Total Forces. Paid. Partially Paid. Unpaid. 9,285 538 4,146 4,601 7,314 406 4,343 2,565 4,497 134 2,787 i,576 2,202 64 1,361 777 688 2 686 2,038 32 521 1,485 7,824 204 7,620 33,848 1,380 13,844 18,624 In addition to these forces, all the colonies, with the exception of Western Australia, have small corps of volunteer artillery, or a 1 See Coghlan's Seven Colonies of Australasia, p. 174. Appendices 331 partially paid force of a similar character. The marine forces are as follows : New South Wales, .... 633 Victoria, . . . . . . 615 Queensland, 428 South Australia, 170 Tasmania, 68 New Zealand, 1,192 The combined forces of all the Australasian colonies is there- fore 36,954. Males of Military Age, 20 to 40 years, 1891.* New South Wales, 209,237 representing 30.26 per cent. Victoria, . . 207,033 29.93 Queensland,. . 86,593 12.52 South Australia, . 53,964 7.80 Western Australia, 12,018 1.74 Tasmania, . . 24,858 3.60 New Zealand . 97,864 14.15 691,567 Naval Defence. The boundaries of the Australian naval station are from 95 E. longitude, by the parallel of 10 S. latitude, to 139 E. longitude ; thence north to 12 N. latitude, and along this parallel to 160 W. longitude ; and on the south by the Antarctic Circle, including the numerous groups of islands within those limits. The defence of the Australasian coast is in the hands of the British ships of the Australian station and of the Australasian Auxiliary Squadron. Sydney is the headquarters of the fleet. In 1891 there were nine Imperial vessels Orlando, Curaqoa, Cordelia, Rapid, Royalist, Lizard, Goldfinch, Ringdove, Dart. Australian Auxiliary Squadron. This arrived in Port Jackson, September 5, 1891, and consisted of five fast cruisers, the Katoomba, Ringarooma, Mildura, Wallaroo, Tauranga, and two torpedo-boats, the Boomerang and Karakatea. i The Seven Colonies of Australasia, by T. A. Coghlan, p. 342. 332 British Colonisation The contribution of each colony for the maintenance of this auxiliary fleet, on the basis of population, for the year 1891, was: New South Wale?, . . .27,430 Victoria, . . . * . . 27,280 Queensland, . . . 9)38o South Australia, . . ' 7,47 Western Australia, . . % 1,210 Tasmania, . . . 3,47o New Zealand, . . . 14,760 91,000 Victoria has a navy of its own for harbour defence, Queensland has two gunboats, South Australia maintains one twin-screw steel cruiser, Tasmania has one torpedo-boat, and Western Australia owns one schooner. The total expenditure for defence and forti- fications, 1890-91, was as follows : New South Wales, ,280,780 representing 45. lid. per head Victoria, . . 149,381 2s. 8d. Queensland, . . 66,013 35. sd. South Australia, . 47,797 35. od. Western Australia, 4,013 is. gd. Tasmania, . . 16,836 2s. 4d. New Zealand, 75> 8 5 2 2s. sd. Chief Dates. 1606. Voyages of the Spaniards, de Quiros and Torres, in the Pacific. The Dutch Explorers. 1606. The Dutch landed from the Duyfhen on the shores of the Gulf of Carpentaria. 1616. Dirk Hartog landed at an island in Shark's Bay. 1618. Zaachen sailed along the north coast. 1619. Edel surveyed the west coast. 1622. Cruise of the Dutch ship, the Leeuwin or Lioness, along the south coast. 1627. Peter Nuyts entered the Australian Bight. 1628. General Carpenter sailed round the Gulf of Carpentaria. Captain Pelsart wrecked on Houtman's Abrolhos. 1642. Abel Jansen Tasman discovered Tasmania and New Zealand. 1695. William Vlaming explored the Swan River. Appendices 333 The English Explorers. 1699. Dampier explored the west coast in the Roebuck from Shark's Bay to Dampier's Archipelago. 1768. Captain Cook left England in the Endeavour with the object of observing the transit of Venus. 1769. In September, Cook sighted New Zealand. 1770. New South Wales named and occupied by Cook. 1772. Voyage of Marion and Crozet to Van Diemen's Land. 1773. Voyage of Furneaux. The British Occupation. 1788. Landing of the first convicts, January 26, at Port Jackson under Governor Phillip. Arrival of the French ships Astrolabe and Boussole under la Perouse and 1' Angle. Norfolk Island established as a dependency on February 13- 1795. First voyage of George Bass and Matthew Flinders. 1797. Sheep imported from the Cape by Macarthur. 1798. Circumnavigation of Van Diemen's Land by Bass and Flinders. 1803. Lieutenant Bowen in the Lady Nelson occupied Tasmania. First Australian newspaper, the Sydney Gazette and New South Wales Advertiser. Macarthur brought to England the first sample of wool. 1806. Famine at New South Wales. Governorship of Captain W. Bligh. 1807. Norfolk Island settlers brought to Tasmania. 1813. Blaxland, Went worth, and Lawson crossed the Blue Mountains in New South Wales. 1817. Bank of New South Wales established. 1824. Journey of Hume and Hovell to Port Phillip. 1828. Hume and Sturt explore the Darling River. The vine first planted on the Hunter River, New South Wales. 1829. Sturt and M'Cleay explore the Murray River. Captain Fremantle hoisted the British flag at the Swan River, Western Australia. 334 British Colonisation 1831. Sir Thomas Mitchell explored the northern parts of New South Wales. The South Australian Association and Gibbon Wakefield's schemes. 1835. Batman landed at Geelong. 1836. Governor Hindmarsh proclaimed British authority at Adelaide. 1837. Governor Bourke planned the town of Melbourne. 1839. Captain Wakefield hoisted the British flag in New Zealand. 1840. Strzelecki, a Pole, discovered gold near Mount Kosciusko. Wellington, New Zealand, founded by the New Zealand Company. Journey of Eyre. 1842. Discovery of Kapunda copper-mines, South Australia. 1845-8. First Maori War. 1850. First sod turned of first railway. 1851. Port Phillip (Victoria) separated from New South Wales. Gold discovered by Hargraves. Extension of representative government to the colonies. First telegraph messages sent in New South Wales. Anti-Transportation League. 1858. TheTorrens Act. 1859. Queensland separated from New South Wales. 1860-70. The Second Maori War. 1864. Sugar grown in New South Wales and Queensland. 1868. Polynesian Labourers' Act, Queensland. 1869. Submarine cable between Tasmania and Australia. 1872. Australia first connected' with the outside world by telegraph in July. Completion of overland cable across South Australia in August. Discovery of tin mines at Mount Bischoff, Tasmania. 1884. Formation of the Imperial Federation League. British protectorate proclaimed over New Guinea. 1886. Inauguration of foreign parcels post, Colonial and Indian Exhibition. 1887. The Colonial Conference. Appendices 335 VII. CEYLON. Area. 24,702 square miles, in shape resembling a pear, with an extreme length of 266 miles, and breadth of 140 miles. The Maldives, of which Mali is the largest island, 7 miles in circum- ference, are tributary to Ceylon. Divisions. The island is divided into seven provinces : (i) the Western, (2) North-Western, (3) Southern, (4) Central, (5) Uva Province, (6) Eastern, (7) North Central, (8) Northern. Altogether, 2| million acres are cultivated out of 13! millions ; and, allowing for tanks, lakes, rivers, swamps, there are about 3 million acres of forest-land capable of being cultivated. The greater portion of Crown reserve-land is in the dry zone. There is a limit, there- fore, to the tea-producing areas. 1 Physical Features. The interior of Ceylon forms an elevated plateau, with an average elevation of 6000 feet, from which rise peaks to a still further height the most remarkable being Pedara- tallagulla, 8300 feet, and Adams Peak, 7430 feet. The whole mountain region of Ceylon is said to cover an area of 4300 miles. On the north the island is level, and a chain of small islands and sand-banks, called Adam's Bridge, connects it with the mainland. Trincomalee, the headquarters of the naval commander in the East Indies, is one of the great harbours of the world. The island is well wooded, and is intersected by many streams, the longest being the Mahavilia-Ganga, 200 miles in length, and flow- ing into the sea near Trincomalee Bay. The scenery is very beautiful, and the ascent from the town and port of Colombo by railway and road to Newera Ellia, the well-known European sanatorium, is one of the most picturesque in the world. Population. 1881, 2,763,984; 1891, 3,008,239 : consisting of (i) the Singhalese, the most numerous ; (2) the Tamils, a race of South India ; (3) the Moormen or Mohammedans ; (4) the Burghers or Eurasians ; (5) the Europeans, of whom there are about 5000. Chief Towns. Colombo, the capital, 130,000, with an area of eleven square miles ; Galle, or Point de Galle, with an excellent harbour; Trincomalee, a fortified post on the east coast; Kandy, in the interior, once the capital of native sovereigns ; Newera Ellia, forty-seven miles south of Kandy ; Batticaloa, in the East Province ; 1 Paper by T. Ferguson, Proceedings Royal Colonial Institute, vol. xxiii. 336 British Colonisation Kartmegala, in the North-West Province ; Jaffna, in the North Province, are all places of importance. Government. Ceylon is a Crown colony, administered by (i) a Governor ; (2) an Executive Council of five members, viz. the Lieutenant-Governor and Colonial Secretary, the officer command- ing the troops, the Attorney-General, the Treasurer, and the Auditor-General ; (3) a nominated Legislative Council of seventeen members, including the Executive Council, four other office- holders, and eight unofficial members. Trade. Imports, 1891, including specie, Rs. 66,635, 392. Exports, Rs. 58,799,744. The leading export is now tea. The amount sent home for consumption in the United Kingdom was 70,000,000 Ibs. in 1891-2. There is a growing market in Australasia. Into the colony of Victoria alone no less than 15,310,442 Ibs. were imported during the year ending December 31, I890. 1 Of this quantity China sent 9,544,655 Ibs. by Foochow Foo, and 1,396,887 Ibs. by Hong Kong ; the Bengal Presidency sent 2,707,457 Ibs., and Ceylon 877,273 Ibs. The duty at Victorian ports is only id. Victorians are great tea-drinkers. Products. In 1891 there were exported 89,692 cwt. of coffee, 5)679,339 Ibs. of cinchona, 68,274,420 Ibs. of tea, 20,532 cwt. of cocoa, 422,109 Ibs. of cardamoms, 2,309,771 Ibs. of cinnamon in bales, 409,251 cwt. of cocoa-nut oil, 400,268 cwt. of plumbago. It maybe remarked that coffee has fallen from 139,283 cwt. in 1888 to its present amount of 89,692 cwt., whilst tea has leapt up from 23,670,268 Ibs. to its present amount. For 1892-3 the tea-crop is calculated to be about 80,000,000 Ibs. Ceylon is also a gem-pro- ducing colony, such as sapphires, rubies, catseyes ; and in 1891 it was calculated that the total finds were worth ,20,000. In 1891 the pearl-fisheries were very valuable, yielding a net revenue of ,86,000. In the low country the cocoa-nut palm is very profitable. Of cocoa-nut oil the export has trebled in ten years, and the other products of the palm (coir, copra, nuts, etc.) have advanced at an equal rate. The cocoa-nut trees take twelve to fifteen years before they become profitable. Rice, cacao, and tobacco can also be cultivated. Ceylon is said to be the best school available in the world for tropical agriculturists. The danger of this fertile island is the unusual one of over-production, as has happened in the case of cinchona. In 1890 New South Wales imported 1 Statistical Register of Victoria, 1890. Appendices 337 8,785,015 Ibs. of tea, China sending 5,528,856 Ibs., India 318,170 Ibs., Ceylon 231,065 Ibs. Through Hong Kong 690,480 Ibs. was sent. In both Australian colonies the superior Ceylon teas have a growing market. It may be noted that the whole amount of Ceylon tea imported into Australasia for nine months ending September 1891 was 2,465,242 Ibs. A large market may also arise in the United States. Revenue. 1891, ^1,309,781. Expenditure, ^1,198,391. Public Debt.ifyi, ^2,535,247, the rupee at is. 5^d. Public Works. There are four railways in Ceylon : (1) From Colombo to Kandy, . (2) From Kandy to Malele, (3) From Colombo to Kaltura, (4) From Peredenia to Nanuoya, Total, There are more than 1400 miles of metalled roads, and of gravelled and natural roads 859 and 630 miles respectively. There is a canal system of 167 miles. There are 1203 miles of telegraph, connecting with the Indian system. The harbour at Colombo has cost more than ,690,000. Communications. Colombo, chief port and naval station, is 6000 miles from London, 2100 from Aden, 900 from Bombay, 600 from Madras, 1600 from Singapore, 2000 from Mauritius, 3000 from Western Australia. The voyage from London to Colombo, -vid the Suez Canal, generally occupies 20 days. Chief Dates. 543 B.C. Founding of the Kandian kingdom, which lasted up to 1815, under 170 kings and queens. 306 B.C. Buddhism introduced. 1505 A.D. Landing of the Portuguese. 1656 Portuguese supplanted by Dutch. 1795 Ceylon taken by the British, and made part of the Pre- sidency of Madras. 1 80 1 Constituted a separate colony. 1802 Formal cession to England by the Peace of Amiens. 1803 The Areca-nut War. First native war. 1815 The Kandian kingdom destroyed. Second native war. 1833 Establishment of present form of government. 1837-1867. Development of the coffee industry. 1867-1892. Development of the tea industry. 338 British Colonisation THE MALDIVES. The Maldives are groups of coral islands about 500 miles to the south-west of Ceylon, of which island they are a dependency. There are thirteen main groups, which are divided politically. The cocoa-nut palm grows well. There has always been a great traffic in cowrie-shells. Dried' fish is sent in large quantities to Ceylon. The population is said to be about 30,000, most of them being engaged in fishing. The Arabs, Portuguese, Dutch, and French have all come to the Maldives. They fell under the British power in 1795. The inhabitants are Mohammedans, and are said to have been converted A.D. 1200. The head of the Government is the Sultan. VIII. MAURITIUS. Area. 708 square miles, with an extreme length of 36 miles and extreme breadth of 28 miles. Divisions. The island is divided into nine districts : (i) Port Louis, (2) Pamplemousses, (3) Riviere du Rempart, (4) Flacq, (5) Grand Port, (6) Savanne, (7) Moka, (8) Plaine Wilhelms, (9) Black River. Physical Features. Mauritius is of volcanic formation, sur- rounded by coral reefs. The surface is covered with rugged mountains, rising nearly 3000 feet. The highest peak is Piton de la Riviere Noir (2900). The island is subject to hurricanes, of which the most noted were those happening in 1754 and 1773, in the latter of which 32 ships were stranded in the harbour and 360 houses levelled in Port Louis. But the worst hurricane of all was that of 1892, by which 1200 lives were lost, no fewer than 280 being buried without identification ; and 50 churches out of 60 were either ruined or demolished. The velocity of the wind on this occasion is said to have been 121 miles an hour at the Royal Observatory. One-third of Port Louis was destroyed, the loss in property being estimated at 12,000,000 rupees. Population. 1891, 370,588, of whom 206,038 were males and 164,550 females. Chief Towns. Port Louis, the capital, 61,170. Appendices 339 Government. Mauritius with its dependencies is administered by : (i) a Governor; (2) an Executive Council of five, with two unofficial members ; (3) a Legislative Council of twenty-seven, eight being ex officio, nine nominated by the Governor (of these five are unofficial), and ten elected on a moderate franchise. In Mauritius the Crown reserves legislation by order in Council. Trade. The trade of the island passes almost entirely through Port Louis. Imports, 1891, ,2,562,250; exports, 1891, 2,430,840. Sir R. W. Rawson has calculated that during the years 1872- 1886 Mauritius imported one-fifth from the United Kingdom, one- half from British possessions, and more than a quarter from foreign countries. She also exported nearly three-fourths to British possessions, and 14 per cent, to the United Kingdom and foreign countries. The exports exceeded the imports by 52 per cent. Mauritius trades with India, New South Wales, France. In 1891, imports from United Kingdom, ,664,782 ; exports to, 277,415. Products. Sugar and rum chiefly ; also vanilla and aloe fibre. Mauritius raises scarcely anything for her own consumption, the island being almost entirely given up to sugar-growing. It imports rice from India, breadstuffs from Australia, cured fish and sheep from South Africa, and oxen from Madagascar. Revenue. 1891, 759>5 6 5- Expenditure, 1891, 817,470; the rupee counting 2s. Public Debt. 1891, ^784,449. Public Works. There are 73 miles of railway, on two lines 38 miles on the North line and 35 on the Midland line. Defence Works. Fort Adelaide and Fort George, above Port Louis. There is a garrison of 1000 men. The military contribu- tion is about 21,000 per annum. Communication. The voyage to Mauritius by the Suez Canal takes about 24 days. By Natal and the Cape the voyage takes a longer time. The dependencies of Mauritius are the Seychelles Islands, Rodrigues, Diego Garcia, and about 70 other small islands, con- taining altogether a population of about 16,000. The principal exports of these islands are cocoa-nuts, cocoa-nut oil, Indian corn, cacao ; also nutmegs, and the celebrated cocos-de-mer, said by some to have been the 'forbidden fruit.' The Seychelles are 940 miles from Mauritius, the largest island being Mahe, 17 miles long and 4 miles broad, with Victoria as the capital. Rodrigues is 300 34o British Colonisation miles from Mauritius, and is 18 miles long and 7 miles broad. Rodrigues was very useful to the British when Mauritius was taken from the French, and was used as a sanatorium. Diego Garcia is the chief of the Oil Island group. It lies on the direct route from the Red Sea to Australia, and is used as a coaling- station. Chief Dates. 1507. Cerne' (Mauritius) discovered by a Portuguese, Dom Pedro Mascarenhas. 1590. Visited by the Dutch, and called Mauritius. 1644. Occupied by the Dutch. 1689. Voyage of Francois Leguat to Rodrigues. 1710. Abandoned by the Dutch. 1715. Taken by the French and called Isle de France. 1734-46. Administration of Mahe de Labourdonnais. 1748. Attack of Boscawen on Mauritius. 1754. A great hurricane. 1810. Mauritius taken by General Abercrombie. 1814. British possession confirmed by Treaty of Paris. 1868. A hurricane. 1884-5. Date of the present constitution. 1892. A terrible hurricane. IX. HONG KONG. Area. 29 square miles. The length of the island of Hong Kong is 1 1 miles, its breadth from 2 to 5 miles. The peninsula of Kowloon, facing Hong Kong, is 2f square miles. Other small islands, known as Stonecutter's, Green, Apleechow, Middle Island, Round Island, are included in the colony. Physical Features. The island of Hong Kong is mountainous, some of the peaks rising to 2000 feet. The chief feature of the colony is its magnificent harbour, with an area of ten square miles. It is separated from the mainland by the Ly-ee-moon strait, not more than half-a-mile in width. From its position with regard to China it has been termed the pivot of Chinese commerce. It lies just within the tropics. It is swept by the south-west monsoon Appendices 341 from March to September, by the north-east monsoon from October to February. Population. 1891, 221,441, of whom 210,995 were Chinese, 8545 Europeans. Chief Town. The city of Victoria, on the north side, 221,141, containing nearly the whole population. Government. Hong Kong is a Crown colony, and is ad- ministered : (i) by a Governor ; (2) an Executive Council of six ; (3) a Legislative Council of twelve, including the Governor. Of these, five nominated members, one usually a Chinese, form the unofficial element. Trade. 1891, imports, from the United Kingdom, ,2,732,157. Exports, to the United Kingdom, ; 1,101,702. About half of the whole trade is with China. The junk tonnage is estimated at 2,000,000 tons, and these vessels are most useful in distributing British merchandise in the non-treaty ports. About a third of the trade is with India in tea, silk, and opium. Hong Kong is a free port. Products. Hong Kong produces nothing worth speaking of, the colony being simply a distributing centre. The tea and silk trade is largely controlled by Hong Kong merchants. Opium, sugar, flour, cotton goods, sandal-wood, ivory, betel, etc., are also distributed largely. It may possibly have a future as a manu- facturing centre. Sugar-refining and ice and rope factories exist. Revenue. 1891, ^421,938. Expenditure, ^426,893. Public Debt. ist January 1891, ^210,000. Public Works. The great reservoir of Tytam-took, capable of storing 350,000,000 gallons of water ; the great sea-wall or praya ; five docks, and three slips. Communication. Hong Kong is distant 40 miles from Macao (Portuguese), 95 from Canton, 800 from Shanghai, 650 from Manila (Spanish), 900 from Saigon (capital of French Cochin China), 1200 from Labuan and Borneo, 1400 from Singa- pore. Hong Kong, therefore, is admirably placed in regard to the Chinese markets and the European trade-centres. Hong Kong is 6000 miles distant from Vancouver Island and the ter- minus of the Canadian Pacific Railway, and can be reached from England by this route in 36 days. Defence Forces. Hong Kong is the headquarters of the China Squadron. There is an Imperial garrison of 1300, towards the 342 British Colonisation cost of which the colony contributes 20,000 annually. There is an armed police of 700, composed of Europeans, Sikhs, and Chinese. X. THE STRAITS SETTLEMENTS. Area. (i) The island of Singapore has an area of 206 square miles, being 27 miles long and 14 wide. (2) The island of Penang has an area of 107 square miles, being 15 miles long and 9 broad. (3) Malacca, on the mainland, has an area of 659 square miles, being 42 miles in length, and from 8 to 25 in breadth. (4) The Bindings, on the mainland, has an area of 200 square miles. The Cocos or Keeling Islands, and Christmas Island, are also included under the colony of the Straits Settlements. Physical Features. The Straits Settlements, lying along the east shores of the Straits of Malacca, facing Sumatra, consist therefore partly of islands and partly of small littoral strips, in juxtaposition to the native Malay States. For these they provide a trade outlet. For a long time the most important British post in these waters was Bencoolen in Sumatra. The geographical value of the colony is obvious at a glance. Population. 1891, 506,577, of which Singapore had 182,650, Penang 232,977, Malacca 90,950. The population consists chiefly of Chinese and Malays. Chief Towns. Singapore, Georgetown, Malacca. Government. The Straits Settlements constitute a Crown colony, and are administered by : (i) a Governor ; (2) Executive Council ; (3) Legislative Council of seventeen, ten being official and seven unofficial. The seat of Government is Singapore. Trade. 1891, imports, 21, 656,366. Exports, 20,129,982; the dollar reckoned at 35. 2 Jd. With regard to the distribution of this trade, it has been calculated that the Straits Settlements furnished ( l88 5) 3-3 P er cent - of the imports and 2.2 per cent, of the exports of the Empire, but only 1.3 and 0.8 respectively of those of the United Kingdom. More than half their trade (56 per cent.) was with foreign countries, one-fifth (20 per cent.) with the United Kingdom. 1 1 In 1891, imports from the United Kingdom, 3,426,835 ; exports to, 3,905,406. Appendices 343 As a trade centre Singapore occupies an important position. Within a radius of 3000 miles live more than half the population of the world, and within this radius Great Britain has a trade of more than ,251,000,000, against 86,000,000 in all other British dependencies. 1 The ports of the colony are all free. The local trade with the Malay Peninsula is increasing largely. Products. In Singapore, gambier plantations, Liberian coffee, pineapples ; in Penang, nutmegs, the betel-palm, and sugar and tapioca plantations ; in the Dindings, tin, ebony, timber, and turtles. It is, however, as an entrepot for the Eastern trade that the colony is most valuable. It is not a port of final destination. -Revenue. 1891, ,609,862. Expenditure, 732,997. The port being free, revenue arises from (i) opium and spirits, (2) stamps, (3) land. Defence. Singapore is the headquarters of the Straits division. The aggregate naval expenditure, on the basis of 50 per ton for 4000 tons, is 200,000 per annum, spent by England. With regard to land defences, the expenditure is 136,000 per annum, of which the colony has to pay 100,000. In addition, they have paid 60,000 for barrack accommodation. They maintain a body of Sikh police. The rate is 35. 6d. per head for defence purposes, the home rate being i6s. for every inhabitant of the United Kingdom. 2 THE Cocos ISLANDS. These islands are said to have been discovered by Captain Keeling in 1609. They are a group of coral islands in the Indian Ocean. They have been colonised by a Scotchman named Ross, whose descendants still live there. In 1857 they were taken possession of by Captain Fremantle. They are twenty in number. The population is about 500, consisting partly of Bantamese. XL BRITISH NORTH BORNEO. Area. 24,000 square miles, with a coast-line of 600 miles. In size Borneo (280,000 square miles) ranks third amonst the islands of the world, coming after Australia and New Guinea. 1 Paper by Sir F. Weld, late Governor of Straits Settlements, Proceedings Royal Colonial Institute, vol. xv. a Times Report, Debate in the House of Lords, July 24, 1891. 344 British Colonisation Physical Features. * The shape of the island of Borneo resembles that of a Burgundy pear, the stalk end pointing north- wards towards China, and the base lying southwards upon the equatorial islands of the Eastern Archipelago. Supposing the stalk end of this huge pear to be cut off to the extent of about one- eighth of the whole length of the fruit, the parts so detached would, roughly speaking, represent the portion of territories ceded to the British North Borneo Company. They consequently possess a coast-line in three directions.' x The most important streams are the Kinabatangan, Labuk, and Segama, flowing eastward, and the Papar and Kimanis, flowing westward. At the north-east of the island the peak of Kinabalow is said to be 13,680 feet. Settlements. The chief stations or settlements are : (i) Silam, (2) Sandakan, both on the north coast ; (3) Kudat, on the north ; (4) Gaya, Papar, Kimanis, on the west. There are many sub- stations. Silam was opened chiefly for experimental gardening; Sandakan, with a population of 6319 (1891) of natives and Chinese, is the principal centre of trade. The settlement has a frontage of about 5000 feet. The government is administered by a Governor assisted by a Council and by Residents. Trade. Imports, 1891, 1,936,547 dollars. Exports, 1,238,277 dollars. The trade is almost entirely in the hands of the Chinese, who traffic directly with the natives. Products. Edible birds'-nests, sago, rattans, gutta-percha, a resin called 'damar/trepang^pearl-shells, sharks j -fins,and camphor. Liberian coffee, cocoa, and sugar-cane grow well. Tobacco is one of the most promising products, especially on the banks of the Suan Lambar River, near Sandakan. The leaf, like that of Sumatra tobacco, is good for wrapping. The birds'-nests industry is a peculiar one. The nest is that of a swift that builds in countless numbers in certain caves. The nest is made of a soft fungoid growth that encrusts the limestone in damp places : it is about an inch thick, brown outside, white inside, and is woven in a filament backwards and forwards by the bird, as a caterpillar weaves a cocoon. The natives detach the nests by climbing up bamboo ladders and thrusting at them with a light pronged spear. The guano is valued at $ to ^10 a ton, 1 Paper by Sir Walter Medhurst, Proceedings of the Royal Colonial Institute, vol. xvi. Appendices 345 and the value of the nests is estimated at 25,000 dollars annually. Borneo is the only place where the ' orang-outang' is found. Gold has been found on the Kinabatangan River, and indications of coal have been discovered in many places. On the coast the pearl- oyster exists of the same variety as that found off Thursday Island. There is a great variety of useful timber in Borneo, the billian or ironwood being plentiful. Borneo timber supplies the Melbourne market. As British North Borneo lies on a highway between China and Australia, it occupies a rare position as an exporting country, a labour market, and a trade centre. The powers of the Company are derived solely from the Sultans of Brunei and Sulu. All the British Government did was to incor- porate by royal charter. Revenue. 1891, 375,507 dollars. Expenditure, 468,644 dollars. The revenue is derived from opium, sales of land, royalties on exports. In connection with British North Borneo, the territory ruled over by Rajah Brooke of Sarawak may be noticed. In 1842 Sir James Brooke gained a land concession from the Sultan of Borneo of part of Borneo extending over an area of 30,000 square miles, and holding a population of 240,000. The imports and exports of this little principality exceed three millions of dollars. LABUAN. Closely connected with British North Borneo is the island of Labuan, the smallest of the British colonies, situated six miles off the north-west coast, and about thirty miles from Brunei, the capital of Borneo proper. Its area is 30 square miles. It was ceded to England in 1847 by the Sultan of Borneo, at which time it was uninhabited. Sir James Brooke was appointed the first Governor. The island has a fine harbour, and was supposed to have extensive coal-mines, but the output has proved to be in- significant. Labuan, it was thought, might prove to be a great coaling centre in the Eastern seas. It is a market for much of the produce of the coasts of Borneo and the Sulu Archipelago. There are three sago manufactories on the island. The inhabitants are chiefly Malays from Borneo and Chinese. Cattle and goats are reared, and about 2000 acres are under cultivation. The Governor of British North Borneo is Governor of Labuan. In 346 British Colonisation 1871 the military garrison was withdrawn. There is a local police force. The nearest telegraph station is Singapore. The popula- tion is about 6000. The island is 9000 miles from London, vid the Suez Canal. Imports, 1891, ^54,537 5 exports, 39,766. XII. GIBRALTAR, MALTA, CYPRUS, ADEN, PERIM, SOCOTRA. These possessions of Great Britain are strategic posts occupied for the sake of securing the route to the East, rather than colonies in the strict sense of the term. There is little scope for overflow of population here. Gibraltar, Malta, Cyprus are the Mediterranean strongholds on this side of the Suez Canal ; Aden .and Perim guard the entrance to the Red Sea from the Indian Ocean. The traffic through the Suez Canal is enormous, and more than three- fourths of it is carried in British vessels. India and Further India, Australia, and the South Seas .send their argosies by this route. If it were blocked in time of war, trade would be diverted and go by the Cape of Good Hope, or perhaps by way of Vancouver and the Canadian Pacific Railway. In either case the derangement of commerce that would be felt would be enormous. Gibraltar is a rocky promontory three miles in length and three-quarters of a mile in extreme breadth. Its highest point is 1439 feet. It was taken from the Spaniards on 24th July 1704, by Sir George Rooke, and has been held by England ever since. It was besieged in 1779, 1781, and 1783, and has earned the title of being an impregnable fortress. The Bay of Gibraltar is four or five miles across, and affords a good anchorage. It is useful to the mercantile marine trading with the Mediterranean, Spain, and Morocco. Opposite Gibraltar, at a distance of 54 miles, is the Spanish town of Algeciras. Malta or Melita (the Island of Honey) is 17 miles long, 9 miles broad, having an area of 95 square miles. With Malta is included the smaller island of Gozo, with an area of 20 square miles, and Comino, with an area of 7 square miles. Malta possesses one of the finest harbours in the world. In 1798 Malta capitulated to Napoleon, who was on his famous expedition to Egypt, and coveted it as a French stepping-stone to the Red Sea and the East ; but the Appendices 347 Maltese rose against their conquerors and blockaded them in the towns. The island was taken by England, and confirmed to her formally by the Treaty of Paris in 1814. The old capital of the island was Citta Vecchia (Medina). In former days Malta was taken (1530) by the Hospitaller Brothers, a military order, who held it for 268 years. Valetta is the chief town of Malta now. A large proportion of the Maltese population is centred round Valetta. Their prosperity depends chiefly on the passing trade. Cyprus has an area of 3584 square miles. The port of Larnaca is 258 miles from Port Said, and 1117 miles from Valetta. In 1571 Cyprus was captured by the Turks, and has remained part of the Ottoman Empire ever since. In 1878 Cyprus came into British possession. The Turks retain certain administrative and judicial powers, together with religious privileges. The island is divided, for legal purposes, into six districts : (i) Nicosia, (2) Larnaca, (3) Limassol, (4) Kyrenia, (5) Famagusta, (6) Papho. In 1891 the population was 209,291 of whom 23 per cent, were Mohammedans. The island is governed by a High Commissioner and a Legislative Council of eighteen, of whom six are official and twelve elected. There are three electoral divisions, each returning one Mohammedan and three Christians. It may be noted that Cyprus was conquered by Richard Cceur-de-Lion in 1 191, whilst on his way to Palestine. Here he married Berengaria. King Richard sold the island to the Knights Templars. The principal towns are Nicosia, Larnaka, Limassol. In 1891-92 the revenue was ,217,162, the expenditure 112,742. One of the conditions of British occupation of Cyprus is that if Russia restores to Turkey Kars and the other conquests made by her in Armenia during the last Russo-Turkish War, the island of Cyprus will be evacuated by England and the Convention of 4th June 1878 be at an end. Meantime, ample provision is made for freedom of worship for Mussulmans, for administration of religious endowments, and for the general exercise of Mussulman rights and privileges. A certain sum is paid annually to the Porte by England. Aden, Perim, and Socotra are British posts occupied for the purpose of guarding the entrance of the Red Sea and the Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb. Aden consists of two peninsulas and a strip of Arabian territory, covering an area of 70 square miles. The fort is about no miles 348 British Colonisation to the east of the Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb. Here is an important coaling-station and also an entrepot for Arabian trade. Aden came into British possession in 1839. The place is subjected to the Government of Bombay. Petim, a small rocky island lying in the Straits, is a dependency of Aden. Its length is 3 miles and breadth if. It is garrisoned by a few troops. It was first occupied in 1857. Socotra is an island situated about 1 50 miles east-north-east of Cape Guardafui. The Government of Aden pays a small subsidy to the Sultan of Keshin for it. It was taken under British protection in 1886. The Somali coast protectorate extends from 48 15' to 49 E. longitude. It is a small outlet of East African trade. To the south and towards the interior is the sphere of the British Imperial East Africa Company. In former days Socotra was one of the sees of the Syrian bishops. The Kooria Mooria Islands lie east-north-east of Aden, and were ceded to England in 1854 by the Sultan of Muscat, for the purpose of landing the Red Sea telegraph cable. INDEX Abercromby, Sir R., 33, 244. Acadia, 241. Acapulco, 138, 139. Accra, 88, 97. Acheen, 253, 257. Adamawa, 96. Africa, West, 59, 86, 87. Akaroa, 207. Albany, 180. Albuquerque, 228, 257. Alexandra Land, 185. Alima, 105. Alleghanies, The, 73. Alligator River, 194. Allouez, 68. Allumette Island, 65. Amboyna, 135, 151,' 250. Anegada, 29. Angas, G. F. , 204. Angola, 112. Anguilla, 20, 21, 28. Anian, Straits of, 47. Annam, 254. Annamaboe, 88, 97. Anson, 138, 142. Antigua, 20, 21, 24, 25. Antilles, The, 20, 21. Apollonia, 97. Ariel, 35, 36. Arkansas, 68. Arnheim, 151, 186. Arrowroot, 33. Arthur, Governor, 161, 162, 163. Ascension Island, 136. Ashantees, The, 97, 100, 101. Assiento, The, 6. Athabasca, 71. Athelney, 46, Atolls, 238. Australia, 92, 112, 132, 146, 156. Avalon, 50. B Baccalaos, 47. Bacchante, The, 13. Bacon, Lord, 38, 39, 49, 50. Bagirmi, 95. Bagot, Sir Charles, 209. Bahamas, The, 33. Ballarat, 170, 172, 183, 191. Baltimore, Lord, 50, 215. Bammakou, 104. Banda Island, 139. Banks, Sir G., 89, 92, 93, 192. Banks Peninsula, 207. Bantam, 251. Barbados, 8, 20. Barbuda, 15, 20, 25. Barnstaple, 46. Barrier Reef, 145. Barrow, 9, 92. Barth, Dr., 94. Basque colonists, 57. Bass, 151, 167, 192, 204. Basutoland, in. Batavia, 159. Bathurst, 76, 93, 156, 192. Batman, John, 162, 168, 181. Battel, Andrew, 88. Baudin, 150, 160, 176, 192, 204. Baymen, The, 18. Bay of Islands, 207. Beaufort, 94. Bechuanaland, in. Benbow, Admiral, 5. Bencoolen, 25. Benin, Bight of, 86, 93. Benin River, 101. Benue River, 95, 96. Benzoni, 94. Berbice, 16, 123. Berkeley, Bishop, 39. Bermudas, 3, 35, 39, 219. Bertolucci, 91. 349 350 Index Blackman, Captain, 258. Bligh, Captain, 219. Blomidon, 241. Boers, 126, 127, 130. Bombay, 231. Borneo, 139, 251, 253, 258. Bornou, 93, 94, 96, Botany Bay, 147, 150. Bo-Tree, 236. Bounties, 54, 58, 59. Bounty mutineers, 143, 219. Bourbon, 240, 241, 244. Bourgainville, 140, 222. Bouri, 104. Bouvet, 201. Bowdich, 92, 94. Bowen, 160, 187. Braddon, Sir E., 166. Brady, 162. Brassey, Lord, 3, 13. Brazzaville, 105. Brebeuf, 67. Breton colonists, 57, 62. Bridgetown, 9. Bridgewater, 46. Brisbane, 187, 188. Bristol, 45, 58, 86, 134. Bristol Channel, 46. Brouage, 64. Browne, 94, Bryce, Professor, 77. Byam, 25. Byron, Captain, 141, 146. Bytown, 77. Cabot, 45, 46. Caicos, 7, 33. Caillie, 93. Cairo, 90, 91, 92. Calcutta, 242, 250, 251. Camden, Lord, 92. Camoens, 132. Campbell, 94, 170. Campeche', 18, 134. Canada, u, 62, 209, 210. Canning, 221. Canterbury, 213, 214. Cape Breton, n. Coast Castle, 88, 97. Good Hope, 88, 113, 120, 141, 228. Horn, 139, 142. Leuwen, 151, 174. Cape Murat, 152. Non, 87, 112. St. John, 55. Cargill, Captain, 212, Caribs, The, 18, 22, 30, 32. Carlisle Grant, 27. Carpenter, General, 134. Carpentaria, Gulf of, 15, 184, 194, 195- Carteret, Captain, 142, 143. Cartier, 51, 62, 66. Castries, 32. Cavendish, 114. Cay os, 3 Censitaires, 74, 77. Cetywayo, 108, 109. Champlain, 37, 64, 66, 77. Charles I., 50, 66. II., 10, 25, 114. Charlevoix, 70. Christchurch, 207, 213. Christophe, 26. Christopher, 236. Clapperton, 93, 94. Clarence, Duke of, 28. Clarke, 71. Clipperton, 137. Clunes, 170. Cochin China, 254. Codrington College, 10, n, 25, 26. Coffee, 42, 232. Coffee, King, 101. Colbert, 70, 74, 106, 118. Coleridge, Bishop, n, 25. Samuel Taylor, 137. Collins, Captain, 147, 160, 188. Colombian States, 7. Colombo, 229, 232. Columbia, British, 81. Columbus, i, 12, 15, 29, 32, 34, 46. Commendah, 88, 97. Company, B. N. Borneo, 258. Dutch East Indian, 177. Hudson Bay, 182. African River, 88. River Niger, 96. Congo, The, 90, 103, 104, 112, 132. Conference, 105. Consetts, 10. Convicts, 146, 147, 148, 153, 173, 180, 181, 188, 224. Cook, Captain, 133, .144, 149, 200, 220. Coolies, 7, 14, 18, 41, 172, 177, 183, 190, 225, 249, 258. Coomassie, 92, 101. Index 351 Cooper's Creek, 194, 195. Cordiner, 229. Cornwall (Jamaica), 4. Coro, 1 6. Coroni River, 17. Cortereal, 49. Coureurs des bois, Courteen, Sir W., 9. Cowper, 219. Coxcomb Peak, 18. Croker, G. W., 156. Cromwell, 4, 8, 10, 25, 215. Crozet, 145, 202, 203. Cuba, 3, 20, 98. Cumberland, Earl of, 250. D Dakar, 104. Dampier, 15, 134, 136, 143, 192, 251. Dapper, 115. Darien, Isthmus of, 6. Darwin, 185, 188, 189, 193. Davis, 114, 134. Dawes, 155. D' Almeida, 113. D'Aranda, 79. De Bouille, 26. Brazza, 105. Caen, 153. 'Estrees, 70. Gonneville, 202. Grasse, 5, 22, 26, 32, 119. 'Iberville, 73. Delagoa Bay, 229. De la Salle, 69. Delight, The, 48. Demarara, 2, 16, 123. De Mist, 123. Mole, 205. Monts, 66. Denham, Major, 93, 94. Denison, Sir W., 165, De Noyon, 70. Dentrecasteaux, 151, 163, 192, 204. De Quiros, 156. Derwent, 160. De Soto, 69. Torti, 69. Verteuil, 13. Vignau, 64. Devon colonists, 56, 58, 64, 114, 242. Dindings, The, 255, 2157. Dix Cove, 88, 97. Diogo de Conto, 228. Dominica, 20, 30, 42. Dragons Mouth, 12. Drake, Sir F., 113, 114. Draper, General, 138. Drummond, 76. Du Casse, 5. Duddon River, 198. Duff, 219. Dunkirk, 56. Du Parquet, 30. Dupleix, 238. Durham, Lord, 40, 80, 81, 210, 214. D'Urville, 202. Dusky Bay, 200. Dutch colonists, 15, 18, in, 112, 118, 124, 127, 134, 155, 185, 228, 240, 257. Dutton, 184. Eden, 241, Edward IV., 87. Egmont Island, 143. Egypt, 176. El Dorado, 12, 16, 132. Elima, 51, 106. Elliot, 182, 189. Ellis, Major, 103, Elphinstone, Admiral, 120, 121. Elizabeth, Queen, 48, 87. Emancipation of Slaves, i. Encounter Bay, 185. Enderby, 147. Esmond, 158. Essequibo, 16, 123. Estienne, Bishop, 240. Eugene iv. , Pope, 87. Evans, 156. Eves Washington, 17, 28. Exeter, 8. Eyre, Governor, i. Faidherbe, 104, 106. Falkland Islands, 139. False Bay, 121. Fantin, 51, 106. Fawkner, 168. Federalists, 28. Fell, 6. Ferryland, 50. Fezzan, 91. 352 Index Fiji Island, 207, 218, 225. Fisheries, 52, 54, 83, 224. Fish River, no. Fitzroy River, 191. Flinders, 152, 156, 163. Fonseca, 15. Formosa River, 7, 248. Fowey, 48. Fox River, 68. Franceville, 105. Franklin, Benjamin, 200. Sir J. , 164. Fredericton, 75. Free Trade, 81. Fremantle, 175, 177. French colonists, 2, 15, 22, 50, 51, 79, 99, 105, 118, 119, 139, 152, 153, 174, 206, 207, 241, 245, 254. Frontenac, 73. Gaboon, 99. Gallieni, 104. Gambia, The, 87, 89, 91, 98, 104. Gambier Island, 222. Gando, 102. Gaspar, 49. Gates, 36. Genadendal, 127. Geographers Bay, 174. George m., 74, 75, 141, 143, 155. IV., 221. Gilbert, Sir Humphrey, 34, 48, 49, 58. Gilbert River, 194. Gladstone, Mr., 164. Glastonbury, 46. Glenelg, Lord, 204. Glenelg River, 195. Gloucester Island, 143. Godley, Mr., 212, 213. Golconda, 139. Gold, 153, 157, 158, 171, 191, 198. Gold Coast, 99, TOO. Gordon, Colonel, 154. Goree, 104. Goulburn, 76. Granger, Dr., 26. Gray, 94, 195. Greenfield, General, 31. Grenada, 29, 30. Grenadines, 29, 30. Grey, Earl, 158, 165, 170, 179, 181. Grey, Sir G., 190, 214. Grosvenor, The, 116. Guadaloupe, 20, 22. Guatemala, 7, 18. Guiana, 12, 15. Guinea, 87, 112. Guizot, 207. Guy, Sir J., 49. Gyaman, 100. Gympie, 191. H Hacking, 155. Hamilton, Alexander, 28. Hampden, 215. Hancock, Dr., 17. Hargraves, 157. Hartpg, 134. Hastings, Marquis of, 251. Hawaii, 220. Hawkesworth, Dr., 221. Hayti, 2, 30. Hennepin, 69. Henrietta Maria, 66. Henry vii. , 47. Herodotus, 93. Highlanders, 76, 77, 106. Hinds, Dr., 212. Hispaniola, 129. Hobart, 160, 167. Hobson, Captain, 206. Hobson Bay, 168. Hochelaga, 67. Hodgson, Sir A., 173, 189, 190. Holmes, 78. Holland, 2, 134, 251. Honduras, British, 18. Hongi, 204. Hong Kong, 232, 246. Honolulu, 220. Hood, Sir S., 5, 22. Hooghly River, 250. Hopkins, Commodore, 34. Hornemann, 91, 94. Hottentots, 108, 113, 126, 131. Houghton, 94. Houtmans, Abrolhos, 174. Hovell, 168, 193. Huaheine, 202. Hudson's Bay, 47, 64, 73, 75, 76, 140, Hue, 247. Hughes, Sir E., 231. Hugues, Victor, 28, 31. Humboldt, 16, 17. Hume, 168, 193. Hunter, Captain, 147, 152. Hunter Island, 151. Huron Mission, 67. Index 353 Icacos Point, 12. Iceland, 46, 49, 162. Im Thurn, 17. India, 119, 235, 245. Irish, The, 5, 23, 37, 146, 208. Home Rule, 82, 83. Isandlwana, no. Isla da Gracias, 12. Isle of France, 151. J Japan, 81, 248. Java, 114, 138, 177, 231, 256. Jenkins, Sir Leoline, 6. Jenne", 93. Jesuits, 67, 223. Johnson, Dr., 26, 27. Johnson, Commodore, 119. Johnston, H. H., 88, 101, 102, 103. chore, 252. oliba River, 90, 93, 95. oliet, 68. cost, Van Dyke, 29. orgensen, 162. Juan Fernandez, 14, 134. Junius, 139. K Kadavu, 225. Kaffirs, 108, no. Kaieteur Falls, 17. Kakondy, 93. Kalm, 118. Kanaka, 191. Kankan, 93. Kano, 96. Kapunda, 184. Kennedy, 195. Kent, Duke of, 31. Keppel Bay, 191. Kew, 121. Keymis, Captain, 12. Khayes, 104. Kimberley, Lord, 252. King, 195. King George's Sound, 179. Kingsley, Canon, 3, 13, 21. Kingston, 5, 27. Kirke, Sir D. , 50, 66. Koopmanner, 124. Korakadika, 203. Koro, 225. Kowloon, 246. Kreli, 108. Kroomen, 103. Kuka, 96. Lalor, 173. Lancaster, John, 114. Lander, Richard, 93. Lanne", W. , 163. La Perouse, 145, 149, 218. Larin, 238. Larut, 252. Latrobe, 126. Ledyard, John, 91. Leeward Islands, 20. Leguat, 241, 244. Leichhardt, 194, 195. Leigh, Lord, 9. Lememe, Fran9ois, 244. Lesseps, 105. Le Vaillant, 125. Lewis, 71. Lexton, 170. Light, Colonel, 183. Limes, 23, 44. Linnaeus, 117. Liverpool Plains, 193. Livingstone, David, 63, 129. Lockhart, Mr., 92. Loddon River, 193. Lok, Captain, 87. Louis xni., 65. XIV., 118, 119. Louisiana, 69, 70, 73. Loyalists, U. E., 74, 75. Low, Sir Hugh, 255. Lynch, Sir Thomas, 6. Lyttelton, Lord, 213. M Macao, 240. Macarthy, Sir Charles, 101. Macartney, Lord, 231. Macarthur, Mr., 154. Maccassar, 143. Mackenzie River, 71, 194. Macomo, 108. Macquarie River, 156, 193. Madagascar, 118, 129, 240. 354 Index Madras, 138, 231, 242. Madulsima, 234. Magelhaen, 113, 133, 138, 143, 146. Mahrattas, 244. Malabar, 231. Malacca, 237, 251, 257. Malaya, 129. Malays, 130. Maldives, 237. Male, 237. Malouines, 139, 140, 243, 244. Malta, 176. Manchester, Duke of, 4. Manilla, 137, 138, 139. Manitoba, 76. Manoa, 16, 115. Maoris, 202. Maraccas, 13. Mariegalante, 22. Marion, Captain, 202. Marlborough, 9. Marquesas Island, 207, 221. Marquette, 68, 69. Martinique Island, 2, n, 20, 30. Marvell, Andrew, 39, 219. Mascarenhas, 240. Mashonaland, in. Maurice, Prince, 240. Mauritius, 153, 225, 240. Maximilian, 5. Maxwell, W. , 253. Melbourne City, 165, 169, 173, 195. Melville Island, 185. Merino sheep, 154. Metcalfe, Lord, 209. Mexico, 5, 18, 68, 70, 79, 139. Mill, J. S., 210. Milton, 132, 133. Minto, Lord, 251. Miquelon Island, 52. Mississippi River, 69, 105, 118. Missouri, 68, 71. Mitchell, Major, 193, 195. Mohammedans, 237. Molesworth, Sir W,, 209, 210. Mollien, 94. Moluccas, 133, 135, 139. Monomotapa, 115. Montgomery, Earl of, 15. Montgomery, Martin, 7, 19, 31. Montreal, 64, 67, 72. Montserrat, 20, 21, 23, 42. Moore, Sir J., 31. Moreton, B., 188, 195. Morne Fortune, 31, 32. Morris, Mr., 21, 41, 42, 101. Morrison, 93. Mosquito shore, 19. Mount Ararat, 172. Alexander, 170, 191. Muizenberg, 121. Muscat, 244. N Nachtigal, D., 96. Nantes, Edict of, 241. Namaqualand, 115. Napoleon, 78, 115, 151, 176. Natal, in, 113. Navigation Laws, 10. Negn Sembilan, 252. Negroes, 98, 103. Nelson, 9, 28, 212, 214. Nevis, 20, 21, 27, 28, 42. New Britain, 136, 147. Caledonia, 145, 201, 220, 223, 225. England, 72, 73, 132, 140. France, 51, 64, 65, 72, 132. Guinea, 136. Hebrides, 145, 201, 220, 225. Holland, 135, 144, 151, 174. Ireland, 143, 147. Norfolk, 161. Plymouth, n, 45, 144. Providence, 34. South Wales, 145, 146, 148, 225. Spain, 79. Walcheren, 15. Zealand, 145, 197, 200. Newcastle, 189. Newfoundland, n, 45, 144. Newport, 36. Niagara, 69. Niger River, 89, 90. Protectorate, 91, 99. Nile River, 90, 95. Nisbet Widow, 28. Norman, Captain, 254.. Normandy, 51. Norton, Lord, 80, 97, 98, 158, 182, 210, 214. Noumea, 224. Nova Scotia, n, 75, 83. Nuyts, 222. O Ogoue" River, 105. Ohio, 68. Index 355 Oil Rivers, 86, 102. Olive blossom, 8. Ontario, Lake, 65. Orinoco, 2, 10, 17, 115. Osbeck, 118. Osnaburgh Island, 143. Otago, 212, 214. Otaheite, 143. Othello, 80. Ottawa, 77, 82. River, 64. Oudney, Mr., 93, 94. Overweg, Dr., 94. Owhyhee, 145. Oxley, 188, 192. Pahang, 252. Palmerston, Lord, 19. Panama, 7, 43, 106. Pandora Pass, 193. Pangkor, 255, 257. Papineau, 80. Paramaribo, 25. Parham, 25. Paria, 16, 30. Park, Mungo, 91, 92, 192. Parkes, Sir Harry, 246. Sir Henry, 190. Parrett River, 46, 47, 50. Parrtown, 75. Patagonia, 137. Patterson, 1155, 161. Paulett, Lord G., 222. Payta, 138. Pearce, 93. Peddie, 94. Peel, Sir R., 222. Peel, Mr., 179. Pelican, The, 113. Pelsart, 134. Penang, 255, 257. Penn, i, 5, 215. Pepys, 141, 250. Perak, 252. Perceval, Mr., 216. Peron, 152, 177. Perth, 76, 175. Peru, 47, 50. Philip, Captain, 147, 149, 203. Philippines, 258. Pigeard, 224. Pigeon Island, 32. Pitch, Lake, 3, 13. Pitons, The, 32. Pisani, 122. Pitcairn, 7, 219. Pitt, Mr., 151. Placentia, 52. Pleiad, The, 95. Pliny, 89, 93. Plymouth, 113, 134. Pomare, 221. Pondicherry, 176, 242. Pondoland, in. Pontac, 127. Pontiac, 72. Port Dalrymple, 161. Darwin, 185, 186, 191. Dauphin, 240. Jackson, 149, 159, 185. Louis, 245. Morant, 5. Nicholson, 206, 207. of Spain, 13. Porto Nova, 99. Port Phillip, 158, 168, 169, 172. Porto Rico, 20. Port Royal, 5, 6. Portuguese, 49, 57, 87, 113, 228, 229, 238, 240, 250, 257. Prince Edward Island, 75, 76. Imperial, no. of Orange, 121. Rupert, 75, 76. Pritchard, Consul, 222. Privateers, 242, 244. Protestants, 6, 73, 119, 241. Ptolemy, 237. Punta de la Galera,* 12. Punta Gorda, 19. Pyrard de Laval, 236, 237. Quaelpaert, 246. Quebec, 59, 73, 144. Queen Charlotte Sound, 143, 201. Queensland, 187. R Raffles, Stamford, 231, 251, 255. Ralegh, Sir Walter, 12, 15, 37, 48, 64, 115, 215. Recidivists, 224. Redonda, 20, 21. | Reformation, The, 87. 356 Index Reunion, 244. Richardson, Dr., 94, 95. Richelieu, 65, 106. Rio del Rey, 101. Risdon, 160. Robinson Crusoe, 14, 134. Sir Hercules, 224, 233. Rockies, The, 62, 71. Rodney, Lord, 5, 9, 22, 31, 32, 119. Rodrigues, 241, 244. Rogers Woodes, 34, 137. Roman Catholics, 57, 65, 114, 119, 222, 229, 258. Roraima, 17. Rosemary, 7, 193. Royalists. 10, 34, 38, 50. Ruatan Island, 33. Rusden, Mr., 143. Rut, 49. Saba, 20. Sahara, The, 94, 95, 102. Saigon, 247. St. Bartholomew, 20. Charles River, 71. Christopher, 39. Esprit, 68. Eustatius, 20. Francis, 151, 193, 195, 224. Helena, 113, 114, 139. lago de la Vega, 5, 6. Johns, 48, 60. Joseph, 12. Kitts, 20, 26, 30, 42. Lawrence, 51, 59, 66, 73, 144. Louis, 104. Lucia, 3, 29, 31, 32. Malo, 51, 64, 134, 139, 140. Paul's College, 39. Pierre, 52, 53, 56. Thomas, 20, 29. Vincent, 29, 30. Salaga, 100. Samadu, 100. Sandili, 108. Sandwich Island, 145, 221, 222. San Salvador, 34. Santiago, 119. Saskatchewan River, 71. Sault St. Marie, 68, 72. Saunders, Sir C. , 144. Schmidt, George, 127. Scotch colonists, 6, 14, 203, 249. Scott, Sir Walter, 17, 76. Seconda, 88. Seigneley, 70. Seigniors, The, 74. Selangor, 250. Selkirk, Alexander, 34, 136. Settlement, 76, 213. Selwyn, Bishop, 211. Senegal, 87, 93, 102, 104, 106. Sennaar, 91. Shakspeare, 35. Shand, Mr. Loudoun, 233. Shanghai, 247. Shark's Bay, 136. Shari River, 102. Shelvocke, 137. Shore Rights, 53. Siam, 255. Sierra Leone, 86, 98, 104, 205. Sikhs, 249, 255. Singapore, 177, 184, 247, 255. Singhalese, The, 229. Sioux, The, 68. Sisal hemp, 44. Slaves, i, 2, 9, ii, 27, 30, 129, 130, 146. Slave Coast, 104. compensation, 131. Sluysken, 122. Sofala, 229. Sokoto, 93, 96, 102 Solomon Island, 225. Sombrero, 29. Somes, Mr., 206. Somers, 36, 37. Souris River, 71. Spain, 2, 133, 139, 141, 215. Spanish colonists, i, 2, 18. Sparrmann, 117, 125, 201. Spice Island, 250. Squatters, 156. Stanley, Lord, 164. States General, 121. Stirling, Captain, 174, 207. Stony Desert, 184, 194. Straiths, 144. Straits Settlements, 250. Streelecki, 194. Stuart, 184, 196. Sturt, 184, 193, 196. Sudan, The, 96, 103, 198. Suffren, 119, 120. Sugar cane, 9, 25, 26, 30, 225, 226. Sumatra, 249. Summerhill Creek, 157. Sungei Ujong, 252. Index 357 Surat, 135, 250. Surcouf, 243, 244. Surinam, 15, 25. Suva, 226. Swan River, 174, 177, 195. Sydney, 147, 154, 157, 169, 193, 224. Table Bay, 118, 119, 120, 178. Mountain, 115, 130. Tadousac, 64, 66. Tahiti, 219, 221, 222. Talbot, 170. Taranaki, 214. Tasman, 134, 200. Tasmania, 160, 197. Taviuni, 225. Tea, 9, 234, 235, 247. Teach. Edward, 34. Temple, Sir R. , 258. Ternate, 135. Thierry, 204. Thiers, 223. Thouars, 207, 222. Tidore, 135. Tientsin, 248. Tierra da Brea, 12. del Fuego, 145. Timbo, 93. Timbuctoo, 88, 89, 93, 104, 115. Timor, 143. Tobacco, 12, 13. Tobago, 14. Tomund, Earl of, 38. Tonga Island, 225. Tonquin, 254. Toreen, 118. Torrens, 182, 186. Torres Straits, 187. Tortola, 22, 29, 42. Tortuga, 134. Tory, The, 206, 207. Townsville, 190. Trafalgar, 9. Treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle, 15. Amiens, 125. Nankin, 246. Paris, 31, 53, 79, 106, 140, 153, 241. - Reciprocity, 84. Ryswick, 26, 52. St. Germain-en-Laye, 66. Utrecht, 26, 39, 52, 56. Versailles, 26, 30. Treaty of Waitangi, 206. Trelawny, 4. Trincomalee, 120, 231. Trinidad, 12. Tripoli, 94, 95. Trollope, Anthony, 17. Truganini, 163. Tuckey, Captain, 92, 94. Tudor, Mr. , 92. Tulbagh, 122, 124. Turks Islands, 7, 33. U Unguratua, 94. United States, 43, 78, 79, 80, 81, 83, 145- Uva, 234. Vancouver, 246. Van Diemen's Land, 151. Gulf, 184, 194. Riebeck, 115. Vanua Island, 22. Venables, i, 5. Venezula, 2, 7, 14, 16. Venus, Transit of, 144. Verandrye, 70, 71. Vern, 173. Verrazano, 62, 66. Vesputius, Americus, 47. Victoria City, 247. Colony, 158, 176, 225. Queen, 81, 169, 170. River, 195. Vigiti Magna, 115. Virgin Gorda, 29, 42. Island, 20, 29. Virginia, 27. Viti Levu, 225. Vlaming, 174. Voltaire, 62. W Wafer, Lionel, 137. Wakefield, E. G., 81, 181, 182, 183, 206, 208, 212. Waller, 38, 219. Wallin, Dr., 91. Wallis, Captain, 143, 220, 221. Walpole, Spencer, 197. Warren, Sir Thomas, 23, 26. 358 Index Washington, 40. Waterloo, 76. Watermeyer, 21. Watling Island, 34, Weld, Sir F. , 252, 256. 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