UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FAr.U ITY AA 000 583 684 I KilFinjIilfi Cf^ Wiiii!^ ill* m THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES pBOMEB, iS:< . ■v'ARWICKSHiRE— Warwick, Kenilworth. oN-AvoH, BiBMiNOHAif, Ac, 10 Map8 and Pkns. 60. WOliCESTER AND HEREFORD— Lkominste KiDPEaHINSTEB, DUSLET, BBOStSOBOVE, EVEBHAM, , -rT^'3T7^r;'=;HIRE — Gloucester, Cheltkn ' ' MapH and Plans, 66. : i. : ! DON AND BEDS— Bedfoi -r, At.rakw, Tkinm, Wapf, 'VV»ti iiLCJK AMbHJLKK— Eton, WicoMBK, Aylbsbuk y: N4V) Edition. Entirely re-writWu, With 8 Maj l •-< .!• / 777 :' -? •/ .' f> 7 fj 9 to Londjon. Join Murray; ALbemaple Street. A .\': r % U- \] ii H ': iW ^ iiif f^cCJ^'--?) jy^" *^^_'_'^i.rf„ ' / "^ Xi^ V O •^ ;^^Mf - \ l\ i' 1 I ^J^t'T :%^ 'n ?llfe^5^, (; II A y\ im.- «. n :-J::i -. ^.;:-.u. A . J^'^^vfei' /i. £ MUIRRAY'S ENGLISH HANDBOOKS-(con ^^ &0i Nub Edilion^ Entirely r and 2 Plan 1 uKDbHIRE — Atlksbuby, Henle>, ' -'irr' TBAME8, . !■: OF WIGHT— Rtde, Gowks, Vkntnob, &c. 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In compiling the present edition of this Handbook, an endea- vour has been made to render the work as complete and accurate as possible ; and, with a view to adding to its usefulness, numerous Plans and Maps have been inserted. The Editor has revised the book, as far as possible, by personal research ; but he is greatly indebted to many clergy and others, who have rendered him valuable assist- ance by favouring him with particulars respecting their several localities. To Mr. W. Salt Brassington, F.S.A., and to Mr. G. H, Wallis, F.S.A,, his thanks are especially due for the information they have supplied with regard to the counties of Staffordshire and Nottinghamshire respectively. It is hoped that readers who may detect any mistate- ments or inaccuracies will be so good as to notify them to Mr. John Murray, 50, Albemarle Street, London. H. M. C. 1892. 868451 LIST OF PLANS AND MAPS. Plau of Derby KX PAGE . to face 4 Map of Matlock, Bakewell, Chatsworth, &c „ 28 Plan of Haddon Hall . 35 Map of Buxton and environs ,, Peak District to face 46 „ 56 Plan of Nottingham 68 Map of the Dukeries „ 96 Plan of Leicester „ 108 „ Stafford „ 148 „ Lichfield Cathedral „ 162 Map of Dovedale, Ashbourne, and Matlock „ 200 „ the Counties at the end. ( ix ) CONTENTS. Introduction Page [1] ROUTES. *»• The names of places are printed in black in those Routes where the places are described. EOtJTE PAGE 1. Burton to Derby [Repton]. 2 2. Derby to Trent Junction, by Melbourne and Castle Donington 10 3. Trent Junction to Chester- field, by Ilkeston, Alfre- ton, and Clay Cross . . 13 4. Derby to Sheffield, by Belper and Chesterfield [Wirksworth] . . .16 5. Derby to Bakewell, by Matlock and Kowsley . 26 6. Bakewell to Buxton [Had- don Hall, Chatsworth, the Lathkill, Tideswell] . . 33 7. Buxton to Manchester, by Chapel-en-le-Frith . . 46 8. Chapel-en-le-Fritli to Bake- well, by Castleton, Hope, Hathersage, and Eyam [The Peak] 52 9. Buxton to Hayfield and Glossop 63 10. Derby to Nottingham, by Trent Junction ... 64 11. Nottingham to Lincoln, by Newark 74 12. Nottingham to Grantham, by Bingham and Bottes- ford [Belvoir] .... 78 18. Nottiui^'hani to Mansfield, 1)y Newstead [Hardwick Hall, Bolsover]' ... 82 [Berhij, ttc] 0^ ROUTE PAGE 14. Newark to Mansfield, by Southwell 92 15. Mansfield to Worksop and Ketford [Welbeck] . . 95 16. Newark to Worksop, by 01- lerton [Thoresby, Clumber] 99 17. Newark to Doncaster, by Tuxford, Retford, and Bawtry 101 18. Worksop to Doncaster, bv Tickhill [Blyth, Koche Abbey] 104 19. Market Harborough to Lei- cester 106 20. Nuneaton to Leicester, by Hinckley [Bosworth Field] 114 21. Leicester to Melton Mow- bray and Oakham . .116 22. Market Harborough to Newark 119 23. Leicester to Burton, by Ashby-de-la-Zouch . .121 24. Ashby-de-la-Zouch to Lei- cester, through Charnwood Forest [St. Bernard's Mo- nastery, Bradgate Park]. 124 25. Eugby to Trent Junction, by Leicester, Mount Sorrel, and Loughborough [Lut- terworth] 129 26. Birmingham to Wellington, by West BromwicH and Wolverhampton . . .134 h Contents. ROUTE PAGE 27. Birmingham to Crewe, by Wolverhampton, Bush- bury, and Stafford . . 142 28. Stourbridge to Burton-ou- Treut, by Dudley, Wal- sall, and "Lichfield . . 152 29. Birmingham to Burton-on- Trent, by Tamworth . . 169 30. Walsall to Rugeley, by Can- nock [Needwood Forest] . 175 31. Tamworth to Newport, by Kugeley, Colwich, and Stafford 179 32. Colwich to Stoke-on-Trent by Sandon, Stone, and Trentham [Chartley] . 183 EOUTE PAGE 33. Crewe to Burton- on-Trent, by Stoke-on-Trent, Ut- toxeter, and Tutbury [The Potteries] 188 34. Uttoxeter to Buxton, by Ashbourne and Harting- ton [Dovedale] . . .196 35. Uttoxeter to Macclesfield, by Alton Towers and Leek [Cheadle] . . .206 36. Stoke-on-Trent to Congle- ton, by Biddulph . . .213 37. Stoke-on-Trent to Market Drayton, by Newcastle- under-Lyme .... 215 Index 217 INTEODUCTION. PAGB I. Physical Featuees AND Geology [1] IT. Communications [16] III. Industrial PiESOURCES [19] IV. Antiquities [2ri] V. Skeleton Todks [oG] I. Physical Features and G-eology. ' a. Derbyshire lies a little to the N.E. of the centre of England, and under shelter, as it were, of the great backbone of the land, at least a third of the most northerly portion of the county being occupied by the southern outliers of that range. Indeed, there is but little flat and level ground in Derbyshire, and what there is is almost entirely in the S., in the neighbourhood of the Trent, and its feeders. The mountainous district in the W. and N.W., known as the Peak, and chiefly lying, as far as Derbyshire is concerned, in the High Peak hundred, but extending southward into that of Wirksworth, contains that beautiful scenery of the millstone-grit and mountain limestone for which the county is pre-eminent. This scenic interest, however, does not arise so much from the elevation of the hills, the most lofty of wliich are only about half the height of the highest summits of Wales and Scotland, as from their romantic grouping, and the bold and varied arrangement of the dales and doughs, which offer exquisite landscape jjictures. It may here be noted that, although this mountainous district is generally attributed to Derbyshire, and goes by the distinctive name of the Peak, it extends in reality over a considerable portion of North Staf- fordshire (in the hmidred of Totmanslow), where it is known as the Lloorlands. The Staflbrdshire section includes the W. jiart of the valley of the Dove (the dividing line of the counties), and the valleys of the Manifold, Hamps, and Churnet (wherein stand Alton Towers), the Weaver range of hills, the wild scenery of the Roaches near Leek, and many other points of interest. The district also impinges upon Cheshire, in which county we find the wild upland moors on the W. side of the Goyt, a few miles from Buxton, culminating* at the Cat and Fiddle, a well-known moorland inn (Rtc. 7). But to return to b 2 [2] Introduction. — Physical Features and Geology. Derbyshire : the mountain, called by some the Peak, wbicb is the centre of this district, is an escarped plateau of millstone-grit, of about 3 m. iu length, in the corner between Yorkshire and Cheshire, having for its principal points Kinderscout, 1981 ft. ; Madwoman's Stones, 1880 ft. ; and Edale Moor. To the N. and E. of the Kinder- scout range is a continuation of the grit in open moors, extending into Yorkshire as far E. as ShelBeld, under the names of Glossop Moor; Featherbed Moss, 1773 ft.; Alport Moor; Howden Edge; Derwent Edge ; and Bamford Moor ; the majority of which are from 1500 ft. to 1800 ft. in height, and contain scenery of a wild character, pleasantly varied by the soft luxuriance of the small river-valleys. The Derwent is the principal river of this district, rising in the grit moors near Glossop, flowing due S., and receiving the tributary streams of the West-End, Alport, and Ashop. To the S. of the Kinderscout range is the beautiful valley of the Noe (which includes Castleton), the southern boundaries of which are Cowburn ; Kushup Edge, 1816 ft. ; Mam Tor, 1709 ft. ; and Lose Hill, 1572 ft. ; round which latter hill, and between it and Win Hill, 1532 ft., the stream winds to join the Derwent lower do-\vn. To the W. of the Peak, and above Chapel-en- le-Frith, the millstone-grit continues its course into Cheshire, forming the picturesque heights of Dympus (1633 ft.) and Chinley Churn (1493 ft.). The small streams that water these valleys, such as Otterbrook and Blackbrook, run westward into the Goyt (a head-water of the Mersey), and so find their way into the Irish Channel. To the S. of Chapel-en-le-Frith, the Manchester and Buxton Railway may be roughly taken as the division between the millstone-grit and the limestone; the former being well seen in Comb's Moss, whence it gradually becomes of less importance. To the S.W. of Buxton, which is finely placed at the point where the limestone emerges from under the millstone-grit, is Axe Edge, 1751 ft., a long prolongation of grit, giving rise to the Goyt and the Dane, which flow into the Irish Sea, and the Wye and the Dove, that run into the German Ocean. To the S. of a line drawn from Buxton, Chapel-en- le-Frith, Castleton, Hoj^e, and Hathersage, extends a large area of mountain limestone, as far S. as Ashbourne and Uttoseter, and E. to Matlock, Cromford, Ambergate, and Bel per; indeed almost as far as Derby itself. This district is full of interesting and beautiful valley scenery, although few hills rise above 1500 ft. ; the principal of these are in the valley of the Dove (of which the western portion is in Staffordshire), such as Chrome Tor, High Wheeldou, Thorpe Cloud, Wolfscote, &c., and the ramifications of the limestone dales are most beautiful and extraordinary, some of them being watered by streams of fair size, while others are mere ravines, where the water scarcely leaves a path even for the pedestrian. The whole course of the Wye, of the Derweut from Hathersage to Ambergate, and of the Dove iu its middle portion, is through a series of precii)itous and escarped rocks, in which the characteristic features of limestone districts are well seen. A common occurrence is that of Introduction. — Phi/sical Features mid Geology. [3] " swallows " or " swallow-holes," cunsistinp; of a pit or cleft in tlie rock, tliroiigh which a stream suddenly disappears, emerging again to the light of day a considerable distance off. Such are to be found at Doveholes, Wormhill, Perryfoot, near Castleton, and in the Stafford- shire valleys of the Hamps and Manifold. " These swallow-holes, as they are justly called, often seem to mark out interruptedly for miles the lines of limestone, whose actual edges may be obscured by the sliding of other matter over them." — PhiUips. The principal develop- ment of the limestone is to the S. of Castleton, which is also famous for its magnificent caverns and mines, at Tideswell, and in the course of the Wye through Miller's Dale and Monsal Dale to Bakewell and Matlock ; at which latter place the cliffs, such as High Tor and Masson, assume noble proportions. The movements to which the limestone has been exposed are well seen in the great chasms and rifts of these river- valleys, as are also the wasting effects of the elements, which have been sufficient to excavate vertical rents and to insidate those great rock-pinnacles that, in Dovedale especially, give the most romantic features to the valleys. " The shale and grit, or flagstone, series, above the scar-lime- stone, is called in Derbyshire the limestone-shale. It is about 500 ft. thick, and consists principally of black or brown durable shale, forming a very wet soil, and causing landslips of great extent beneath the mill- stone-grit summits. Mam Tor, or the Shivering Mountain, exhibits these characters very decidedly. The shale, however, is interstratified, to a great extent and with considerable regularity, with thick rocks of fine-grained micaceous gritstone, of excellent quality for building, and (generally at the bottom of this rock) with good durable micaceous flagstone, similar to that in the more recent coal-strata. Some less regular sandstone beds, called ' cankstone,' approach very nearly to the nature of the ganister series of the coal-strata. Mr. Farey, who con- siders these intei'polations as anomalous, calls by the same name the very characteristic beds of black argillaceous limestone which lie in this shale at Ash ford and Ashbourne, and produce lime fit for water- cement." — Fhillips. The carboniferous or mountain limestone of Derbyshire is a forma- tion of great but unknown thickness, consisting for the most part of nearly pure massive limestone, with a few thin partings of shale, and at least two, probably three, interstratified beds of a doleritic rock known as loadstone. The toadstones represent contemporaneous sub- marine flows of basic lava. Probably the term is a corruption of the German Todtstein, given to the rock by the old miners, who supposed that it was " dead " or barren of lead-ore. The Derbyshire limestone is rich in encrinites, corals, brachiopods, and other marine fossils ; and many varieties form handsome marbles. The u})per part of the lime- stone is more or less earthy, and contains layers and nodules of chert, a siliceous mineral, somewhat resembling flint. The ores obtained from the limetone are chiefly those of lead and zinc ; the former carrying but a small proportion of silver. The ore-deposits are known locally as [4] Introduction. — Plijsical Features and Geology. rake-veins, pipes, and flats. (See ' Geological Survey Memoirs on North Derbyshire,' 2nd edition, 1887.) Between Ashover and Chesterfield there is a watershed, from which the Amher flows southward to the Derwent, and the Hipper and Rother northward to join the Don. The Amber forms the boundary-line (superficially) between the lime- stone and the coal-measures of the Derbyshire and Nottinghamshire fields, which doubtless, prior to the elevation of the mountain lime- stone, were continuous with those of Cheshire and Lancashire. A line drawn from Yorkshire (for this coal-field is geologically one with the South Yorkshire field), through Chesterfield, Dronfield, Alfreton, and Heanor to Sandiacre, will mark out its western extent. On the E. it is defined by the magnesian limestone and Lower Permian strata, which overlie the coal-field and form a picturesque ridge of table- land, known by the name of Scarsdale, and extending from Barl- borough on the N. to Bolsover and Pleasley, where it enters Notting- hamshire. The Erewash valley (the natural division between the two counties) intersects the coal-basin on the S. from Sandiacre to Ilkeston and Codnor Park, leaving a portion of the field in Nottingham- shire. The coal-field consists of open valleys and wooded uplands, which, on the whole, are not so much disfigured by the appliances for iron-making and coal-getting as in most colliery districts, except, perhaps, in the neighbourhood of Clay Cross. Prof. Hull gives the following general section of the Permian and Coal strata : — Permian Eoohs. 1. Marls and sandstone 40 feet. 2. Magnesian limestone 60 „ 3. Marls — sandstone 30 „ Middle Coal Measures. Strata to top hard coal about 700 „ Waterloo coal Ell Lower hard Furnace ^.. ., .. .. .. 1600 Black shale or clay Kilburn Shales Lower Coal Measures or Ganister Series. Flagstones of Wingfield Manor, shales, and flaggy sandstones, with two coals underlaid by ganister floors 1000 „ The best coals are the Top Hard and Lower Hard, the former being identical with the celebrated Arley Mine of Lancashire. The ironstone measures are of great value, and are usually called Piakes. The most important are those known as the Brown and Black Rakes of Butterley, Introduction. — Physical Features and Geology. [5] "Wallis's, Dogtooth, Black Shale, and Honeycroft Eakes, the latter being principally worked at Staunton, near Ilkeston. The Dale Moor Rake, worked also at the same place, abounds in fossil fish of the genera Palas- oniscus and Platysomus; and the Dogtooth Eake at Chesterfield is noted for the plentiful occurrence of the shell named Anthracosia. The geologist in exploring the carboniferous strata of Derbyshire will have no difficulty in collecting a bag of characteristic specimens, the limestone everywhere displaying typical fossils, particularly mollusca and encrinites. To the S. of the limestone and coal districts occupying the remainder of Derbyshire is the New Red sandstone, through which the lower portions of the Dove and the Derwent wind their way to join the Trent. This part of the county is generally flat, though by no means deficient in beauty, and contains the most productive land, although it is of somewhat cold soil. To the S. of the Trent, and W. of the Soar, the ground is broken and varied, particularly as it approaches Leicestershire. A considerable quantity of gypsum is worked at Chellaston, between Derby and Melbourne, for the purpose of being made into plaster of Paris. (Rte. 2.) The Upper Keuper clays here are interesting to the geologist as yielding minute Foraminifera, Cy there, Otohtes, with spines and plates of small Echiuoderms. The following summary of soils of Derbyshire, compiled by Mr. Farey, may be interesting : — Gravelly 77,000 acres. Eedmarl 81,000 „ Yellow limestone .. .. 21,580 „ Coal measures 90,000 „ Gritstone and shale .. .. 160,500 „ Limestone and sandstone .. 51,500 „ Lower limestone . . • . 40 , 500 „ 522,080 „ B. Nottingliainsliire, which is surrounded by the counties of Derby, Leicester, Lincoln, and York, has none of the varied and hilly character for which its neighbour on the west is so famous, as it lies quite out of the influence of the great ranges which form the backbone of England. But if it is wanting in mountainous scenery, it possesses all the pleasant and picturesque characters of a thoroughly Enghsh county, in which forests and rivers, uplands and fertile dales, busy villages and manufacturing towns, alternately present themselves. The principal interest of the county is attached to the westerly portion, the most broken ground and varied scenery being found there, and, perhaps as a natural sequence, a large number of notable seats and residences. Indeed, it is to be questioned whether any district in England is so rich in fine estates as that between Wljorksop and Nottingham. The Erewash river separates Nottinghamshire from Derbyshire. [6] Introduction. — Physical Features and Geology. To the E. of this line, as far as Worksop, runs a belt of the highest ground that Nottinghamshire contains, which, speaking broadly, may be said to be included in the Sherwood B'orest district, the most lofty eminences of which, however, do not exceed 600 ft. in height. In fact, they can scarcely be called hills so much as successive plateaus of high ground. The Forest of Sherwood is now for the greater part enclosed and under cultivation, though there is still left some agreeable woodland scenery, with a few old trees here and there that possibly may have sheltered Kobin Hood and Little John, particularly in the districts known as Birkland and Bilhaugh, between Worksop and OUerton. This plateau gives rise to several streams, which, though flowing in different directions, all belong to the same watershed as that of the Trent, in which the whole county is included. They are — the Erewash, rising to the S.W. of Mansfield and flowing S. to join the Trent at Long Eaton ; the Lene, from near Newstead, to the Trent at Notting- ham ; the Dovor Beck, which runs a nearly parallel course, a few miles E. ; the Mann or Maun, and Meden, to the N. of Mansfield ; and the Kainworth, rising near Newstead. These three latter streams all flow to the N.E. through the richest portions of the Dukery, and eventually unite under the name of the Maun, which, after receiving a small stream called the Poulter, rims northward to Ketford, where it takes the name of the Idle and becomes a rather important navigable river. " Yet Sherwood all this while, not satisfied to show Her love to princely Trent, as downward she doth flow, Her Meden and her Mann she down from Mansfield sends To Idle for her aid." — Drayton. It then passes Bawtry, receiving the waters of the Ryton (which rises near Welbeck), and makes an abrupt turn, skirting the northern division of the county, and falling into the Trent as this river leaves Nottinghamshire for Lincolnshire. The last portion of its course is known as the Car Drain. This northern part of the county, which is bounded on the S. by the Manchester, Sheffield, and Lincolnshire Rly., is flat and compara- tively utiinteresting, particularly on the eastern side of the Great Northern Rly. ; it partakes very much of the Lincolnshire character of scenery and its singular intersecting dykes or drains. " Whoever will taice his station upon the hills near Styrrup, Everton, or Gringley, will at once perceive that the whole of the level ground now known by the names of Gringley, Everton, Misson, and Styrrup, Cars — the latter extending through the lands of Tickhill, Stancil, and Hesley, to Ros- singtou and Doncaster — has at one time been covered with water, which, divided by the high grounds of Plumtre, Bawtry, Martin, and Shooter's Hill, has to the N.E. of Rossington Bridge formed one immense lake or estuary, covering the localities where now stand Haxey, Thorne, and Hatfield, and, as we may reasonably conjecture, commu- nicating with the llumber or the sea. The soil of all these Cars is essentially of the same character — black bog — and is filled with trees, Introduction. — Physical Features and Geology. [7] generally speaking, pine, oal<, aud yew, which have evidently stood very thick on the ground, and, having fallen off at the base and leaving their roots in sittt, are buried about a foot deep, although in some iustances much deeper." — Raine. The district between Sherwood Forest and the Trent gradually becomes flatter and less picturesque as it recedes from Sherwood ; but when the Trent is approached, the scenery offers many beautiful river views, such as Gainsborough and Constable loved to paint. The Trent — celebrated by Camden as the river which "Triginta dat mihi piseem ; " and sung by Drayton as the river " "Which thirty doth import; by which she thus divined, There should be tbuiid in lier of fislies tliirty Icind ; And thirty abbeys great, in places fat and rauli, Should in succeeding lime be builded on her bank; . And thirty several streams, from many a sundry way, Unto her greatness should their watery tribute pay "— and by Milton in a juvenile poem as " Trent, who like some earthborn giant spreads His thirty arms along the indented meads " — enters Nottinghamshire just after receiving the Soar from Leicester- shire, and flows in a north-easterly direction across the county past Nottingham and Newark, dividing it into two unequal portions, of which the southern forms scarcely a fourth part. This district is broken and picturesque, and is known by the name of the Wolds, of which the highest portions are the Leake Hills to the E. of Kegworth. Two or three streams, such as the Smite and Devon, " two neat and dainty rills," water these miniature dales and fall into the Trent between Nottingham and Newark. The geology of Nottinghamshire is not so interesting as that of Derbyshire, " The beds of the has, new red sandstone, magnesian limestone, and coal, succeed each other in regular sequence from E, to W. The lias district may be detined by a line drawn from near Gainsborough to Newark, and thence to Bingham, keeping on the eastern side of the valley of the Trent. Near Bingham the lias-beds extend to the S. aud enter Leicestershire, their contour being marked by the valley of the Soar, " From Griugiey-on-the-Hill to West Markham extends a bold and elevated chain of hills, composed chiefly of red marl, lias, shale, and limestone, which commands a very extensive view of the counties of Lincoln aud Nottingham, as well as of South Yorkshire, and from which, as the most remarkable feature of the district, the hundred of Bassetlaw, Bersetlaw, the Berset Hill, has indisputably in remote antiquity derived its name." To them succeed the red marls and Keuper sandstones of the New Red, which indeed may be said to occupy by far the greatest portion of the county — extending westward to a line drawn from Doncaster to Worksop, Mansfield, and Nottingham. The caverns of Nottingham, Sneinton, Papplewick, and others, are [8] Introduction. — Physical Features and Geology. all excavated from the New Eed series. Considerable deijosits of gravel are found, particularly in the district of Sherwood Forest, in many places consolidated into a breccia or conglomerate. Between tbe New Red and the coal-basin, occupying a thin strip of about 6 to 8 miles in breadth, is the magnesian limestone, which is interesting inasmuch as several pits have been sunk through these beds to the underlying coal. Indeed, by far the greater part of what is known as the Nottingham- shire coal-basin is in reality covered superficially by Permian beds. At the Shireoaks Colliery, near Worksop, the Upper Permian marls, mag- nesian limestones, and Lower Permian beds, are 196 feet in thickness, through which the sinking has been carried before arriving at the coal • — the subsequent strata of the coal-measures being 1500 ft., and con- taining the following seams of coal, together with beds of ironstone : — Feet thick. The Manor Coal 2 Shireoaks 4 Furnace 3 Hayles 3 Top Hard or Barnsley (cut at a depth of 510 yds.) 4 Dunshill 3 Waterloo 4| Soft 3i Lower Hard 4 31 The Duke of Newcastle's success in this attempt to prove the coal under the Permian solved a great problem, important not only as a local fact, but to the country at large, viz. the possibility and feasi- bility of extending our coal-workings into districts hitherto untried. The Shireoaks experiment i^roves " the existence of the coal in workable seams continuously from Sheffield under the Permian rocks and New Ked sandstone. The seamis lie so horizontal that the eastern limit of the field cannot be determined." c. Leieestershire, from its peculiar conformation, presents a number of salient angles, which consequently involves a larger propor- tion than usual of neighbours, viz. the counties of Nottingham, Lincoln, Rutland, Northampton, Warwick, and Derby, Leicestershire does not rank high in the estimation of tourists for scenic beauty ; but, although the hills, generally speaking, are anything but lofty, they i^i-equently have, esiaecially in the northern portion of the county, owing to geological causes, a sharpness and irregularity of outline that is highly picturesque. The vales, too, are rich and fertile, and the more open country, if somewhat monotonous, as becomes a great grazing district, is cheerful and breezy, and irresistibly recalls to all who are fond of sport the music of the hormds as they sweep along in full cry over the finest hunting country in the world. In fact, Leicestershire is a thoroughly English county, and deserves to be better known than it is by the tourist, who will find a great deal of interest in its lanes and byways, Introduction. — Physical Features and Geology. [9] its moors aud commons, its villages with their suggestive Danish names, and where the inhabitants often unite frame-worli knitting with the rude labour of the agriculturist. The hilly portions of Leicestershire are rather detached and isolated groups than continuous ranges, those which could best be described under the latter head being in the Wold district, which on the N.E. border are part and parcel of the same high grounds in Nottingham- shire and Lincolnshire, stretching all the way from Belvoir Castle on the borders to Barrow-on-the-Soar, and overlooking on the S. the plains of Melton Mowbray. Towards Barrow this range thickens out, and occupies part of Nottinghamshire to the S. of Bingham. It gives rise to the Devon and Smite, which flow northward to join the Trent near Newark, and on the southern side to some small streams flowing into the Wreak. This latter is a somewhat important river in Leicester- shire hydrography running E. and W. to join the Soar at the base of the Wolds. It rises under the name of the Eye near Oakham, and receives a stream from Kettleby, near Melton, after which it takes its name of Wreak. The Leicester and Peterborough Ely. traverses the same valley, and the pleasant-looking stream is seldom out of sight from the line. Along the southern portion, corresponding to the northern Wolds, is a rather long range of hills, which separate the basin of the Soar from that of the Welland, and run round, more or less interruptedly, towards the Rutlandshire border. From this range rise the Swift, flowing past Lutterworth to join the Avon, and a few smaller streams that fall into the Welland. This portion of the county thus belongs to a different water system from the rest. The most northerly point of the county, which projects into Derby- shire, is separated on the E. from Nottinghamshire by the Soar, and is a continuation of the high grounds near Castle Donington and Kegworth that occupy the angle between the Trent and the Soar. To the S. these are connected, though with a slight interval, with the most lofty and most picturesque of Leicestershire hills, viz. Charnwood Forest, which fills up more or less with its outliers the district embraced by the Midland main line and the Leicester and Swannington Ely. There is a boldness about these syenitic ridges that at once bespeaks their igneous origin, and which, had they been a little higher, would have given "them a place among English mountains. The princi])al range runs N.W. to S.E. from (iracedieu to Bradgate, flinging oil' the eminence of Bardon Hill, which, though only 853 ft. in height, from its singular position commands a more extensive view than many hills twice its altitude. Geologically speaking, the Chariiwood Forest hills may be described as a series of syenitic rocks, protruded through overlying schistose and carboniferous deposits, and surrounded at their base by triassic strata, which are disclosed horizontally and were deposited subsequently to the elevation of the forest. The old rocks of Charnwood Forest form a puzzling group, the interpretation of which has, from time to time, [10] Introdmtion. — Physical Features and Geology. engaged the atteniion of many geologist;*, includiug Sedgwick, Jukes, Ansted, Hull, Boimey, and Hill. Aq upheaval along an axis stretching from N.W. to S.E. has exposed a nucleus of ancient rocks, probably in part at least of archsean or pre-cambrian age. Many of the rocks apjjear to be composed of ashes and other volcanic ejectamenta. Koofing slates are worked at Swithland, and hone-stones, known as " Charley Forest hones," at Whittle Hill. A hornblendic granite has long been worked on an extensive scale at Mount Sorrel ; but most of the other igneous rocks, such as those quarried at Markfield and Groby, are syenites. Molybdenite, a rare mineral, has been found in the Mount Sorrel quarries. The whole district is highly interesting on account of its isolation and distance from the other igneous localities of England. Next in order — and indeed resting on the w-estern side of Charnwood — are the carboniferous deposits forming the coal basin of Leicester- shire. This coalfield is divided by geologists into 3 districts, viz. Moira on the W., Ashby-de-la-Zouch in the centre, and Coleorton on the E. " The central district is formed of Lower Coal Measures, without workable coal, and is bounded on both sides by downcast faults which introduce the workable coalbeds of Moira and Coleorton. The coal-seams of these latter districts cannot be identified with each other, though they are probably synchronous." — Hull. Although bounded on the E. by the Charnwood rocks, on the S. and W. they underlie the New Ked sandstone; and in the district of Coleorton (and par- ticularly at Bagworth) there are some collieries sunk through the Keuper marls of this formation, just as at Shireoaks. Indeed, at Swannington, a valuable bed of coal was sunk to, through a great mass of trap. Only in one place — viz. the northern side of the coal basin — is the limestone seen to emerge, and even there is much interrupted and distorted. The general thickness of the Middle Coal Measures with 20 seams, of which 10 are workable, is about 1500 ft., and, below them, 1000 ft. more of Lower and unproductive measures. In the Moira district, which is remarkable for its salt-water reservoirs (Rte. 22), is a seam of cannel coal 3 ft. 6 in. thick, beneath which is the Main coal, 12 ft. thick. The latter, however, is only half this thickness in the Coleorton district. Probably owing to its proximity to Charnwood, this field is somewhat subject to igneous complications, for Prof. Hull tells us that " at VV hitwick a remarkable bed of whinstone or greenstone intervenes between the coal-measures and the New Red sandstone. In one of the shafts at Whitwick Colliery it is 60 ft. thick, and has turned to cinders a seam of coal with which it comes iu contact. It has evidently been poured out as a sheet of lava over the denuded surface of the coal- measures at some period prior to that of the trias," The geological collector will find several varieties of coal-plants amongst the shales, together with the fossil fruit known as Trigono- carpum. The Anthracosia shell is also i^lentiful. The whole of the western portion of Leicestershire is occupied by the triassic or New Eed sandstone, the limit of which is pretty accurately defined Introduction. — Physical Features and Geolor/y. [11] by a line running W. of, and parallel with, the main line of the Mid- land Ely. Tlie lias there covers it, being a continuation of the great band of liassic strata that sweep from S.W. to N.E. through the Midland counties. At Barrow-on-Soar there are large quarries for obtaining lias lime (Rte. 24), which the geologist should visit, many splendid specimens of fishes and reptiles having been extracted from these beds. Overlying this series again is the oolite, which is not seen to any great extent in Leicestershire, save at theN.E., where it occupies the range of hills at Belvoir. Westward, the range of Charnwood declines, though the high and broken ground of the Leicestershire coal-field fills up the district between Coleorton, Ashby, Gresley, and Burton-on-Trent. These hills furnish two small streams, which flow S. and S.W., watering a large district, to fall into the Anker near Atherstone, this latter river joining the Tame and ultimately finding its way into the Trent. The western portion of the county is undulating, occasionally rising, as at Hinckley, into considerable eminences ; it is in this district that the Soar takes its rise and flows through the centre of Leicestershire, receiving a large number of tributaries, and after a course of 50 miles joining the Trent near Trent Junction. D. Staffordshire, although one of the most important English counties, derives this importance more from its pre-eminence as a manufacturing district than from its reputation for beauty. In this respect, however, it is underrated, for, though fully one-half the shire is disflgured with fire and smoke, the other half possesses its share of picturesque scenery — scenery of that peculiarly diversified character which is so common in our midland counties. Of mountains, properly so called, there are none, and the only approach to them is found in the north of the county ; but, in default of these, there is an extensive surface of high plateau-like ground, possessing the usual features of lofty moorlands, the boundaries of which are marked by broken and wooded escarjjments overlooking luxuriant vales, watered by broad rivers, and ornamented with beautiful parks and groves. For descriptive purposes, Stafibrdshire may be roughly divided into North and South by a line cutting it in half, the south portion being mainly occupied by the South Stafibrdshire coal-field, which, next to that of Newcastle, has been the longest worked and the most productive in England. In shape it is something like an elongated and compressed pear, with the exception that both ends are rather tapering. From the irregularity of its boundaries it trenches somewhat on the south on the counties of Warwick and Worcester, and it may be defined pretty exactly by a line drawn from itugeley to Cannock, Wolver- hampton, Sedgley, Stourbridge, and Hagley Park on the west ; thence running south ot llales Owen, and returning through Ilarborue, Old- bury, West Broniuich, Great Barr, and Bruwnhills, back to Kugeley. The surface of this district is for the most part an undulating plateau, [12] Introduction. — Physical Features and Geology. bounded externally by ridges, such as the Bromsgrove Lickey and the Clent Hills on the south ; on the west by the broken country of Shrop- shire ; whilst eastwards it is surrounded by the New Eed sandstone plain of Birmingham and the districts watered by the Tame. Within itself, the coal-field occasionally rises up into bold and commanding heights, such as the Kowley Hills, an enormous mass of basalt to the S. of Dudley, "forming a hill about 2 m. in length and 820 ft. in height. This basalt assumes the columnar structure, affording examples of ijrisms as perfect as those from the Giant's Causeway in Ireland. Mr. Jukes considers that this rock has been poured out in the form of a lava-flow during the coal period, for the beds of coal di^) under the basalt, and have been followed till found charred and utterly worthless." — Hull. To the N.W. of the Rowley Hills is the singular chain of Dudley Castle Hill, the Wren's Nest, and Sedgley Beacon, varying from 730 to 760 ft. in height. These eminences are of the very greatest interest to' the geologist as affording examples of an uprise of Upper Silurian rocks through the coal-measures, while at the same time they are instructive illustrations of denudation. In fact, the whole of these coal- measures repose directly on the Silurian rocks without the usual inter- vention of carboniferous limestone and Old Red sandstone — a fact which is accounted for by Mr. Jukes by supposing that, while the carboni- ferous rocks were being deposited, all this district was dry land, so that the coal-beds were deposited directly on the Silurian. The strata at Dudley and Wren's Nest ai"e of Wenlock limestone and shale, and have afforded magnificent Sihuian fossils. The next high ground of any note is that of Barr, extending from Walsall to Barr Beacon, which is also composed of Wenlock limestone and which commands a splendid panoramic view. To the Barr plateau succeed the swelling moorlands of Cannock Chase, which, brown and barren as they are on the surface, contain inexhaustible mineral riches beneath. The greater portion of this extent of country is unattractive and monotonous, but the eastern and northern escarpments which over- look on the S.E. the distant valley of the Tame, and on the N. and N.E. the more beautiful Vale of Trent, are broken and romantic, and offer in the neighbourhood of Armitage, Rugeley, and Colwich, scenery of a pleasing description. It is singular that, while this large extent of country, so full of hills and rising grounds, is environed on all sides by rivers, such as the Rea, Trent, Sow, Penk, and Smestow, scarce a single stream, and not one of any note except the Tame, rises within it. The coal-basin proper " appears to have been upheaved bodily along two great lines of fracture, which range in approximately parallel directions from north to south," and is terribly broken up by faults. The following is the succession of strata according to Professor Jukes : — Triassic — Bunter Sandstone .. Upper mottled sandstone, conglomerate beds, lower mottled sandstone ,. .. 1200 ft, Introduction. — Physical Features and Geology [13] Permian Breccia of felstoue, por- phyry, and Silurian rocljs ; red marls, sandstone, and calcareous conglomerate 1000 to 3000 ft. Upper coal-measures .. .. Red and mottled clays, red and grey sandstone, and gravels 800 ft. Middle coal-measures ',. .. 1. Brooch coal. 2. Thick coal. 3. Heathen coal. 4. New Mine coal. 5. Furlong coal. 6. Bottom coal. With ironstone and other strata 510 ft. The workable coal in the neighbourhood is exceedingly .thick, about 65 ft. ; of which the well-known ten-yard or thick coal is nearly one- half. This seam has been the great source of South Staffordshire wealth, but, from overworking and excessive waste, it is in a fair way to become exhausted altogether. A good seam has, however, been found and successfully worked at Sandwell Park. At Bentley there is a great fault, to the north of which this seam becomes divided and split up into nine smaller ones, separated from each other by a considerable thickness of sandstones and shales. To the north of the Cannock districts some of the pits are worked through the New Eed sandstone, the dip of- the coal-beds being from east to west. To the E. of the coal-field is a large district of New Eed sandstone occupied by the valley of the Tame, which rises in the high ground near Essingtou, and flows S.E. past Perry and Aston, when it enters War- wickshire, and receives the Rea, Blyth, and Cole. Near Diayton Bassett it forms the boundary between Staffordshire and Leicestershire, and continues to do so until it joins the Trent at Alrewas, its course throughout the whole distance beiug through a pleasant undulating country, full of quiet English beauty. To the west of the coal-field the country is more broken as it approaches the high grounds of Shrop- shire. The scenery in the neighbourhood of the Smestow, and to tlie west of Wolverhampton, where the Penk takes its rise, is characterised by wooded chains of hills, of no great height, but of very pleasing diversity. By far the most picturesque portion of Staffordshire lies in the northern division, although that is now greatly affected by the progress of the manufactures that have arisen in the North Staffordshire coal- field and the Potteries. Eastward of the Trent, which forms a marked line running from N.W. to S.E., the comitry is very pleasant, and is principally occupied by the high ground of Ncedwood Forest, which fills up the triangle formed by the North Staffordshire Illy, (from Stoke to Burton) and the Trent in its meandering course tg the point where it enters Derbyshire. This district, though high and exposed, [14] Introduction. — Physical Featxires and Geology. has been finely wooded, and several grand and famous old oaks are still standing, and, though now possessing the name only of forest, it still shows some exquisite samples of coppice, wood, and warren, alternating with fine old parks and quiet villages with venerable church-towers. To the west of the Trent, between it and the North- Western Ely., the country is more monotonous, though still somewhat elevated and undulating, and this feature continues all through the vales of the Sow and the Meese, as far as the Shropshire border, no hills of any size occurring to break the line. But between Stone and Stoke the Trent runs through one of the most pleasant parts of its career, between the wooded hills of Barlaston and Tittensor, and near the lordly gardens of Trenthara. The North Staffordshire Ely. from Burton to Crewe introduces the tourist to scenery of a very different order, in which the luxuriance and beauty of the south are exchanged for the picturesque moorlands and hills of millstone grit, and the still more abrupt and romantic limestone cliffs. The whole of the country between Newcastle and Macclesfield shows those gradations from the ridges of the North Staffordshire coal-basin to the more wild and rugged district between New Chapel and Bid- dulph which culminate in the ridge of Mow Cop, and in Axe Edge, which here forms the watershed of Elngland. The district between Biddulph and the Churnet valley, where the coal-measure grits give place to the limestone, is broken and characteristic, though it is not equal to the romantic scenery of the Churnet valley, such as at Alton Towers and Cheddleton. Farther northwards, beyond Leek, the county becomes almost mountainous; and the Eoaches, running from N. to S., are some of the most picturesque hills in England. Eastward of these rises a vast moorland plateau, its long westward escarpment being known as Morridge (i.e. Moor Edge), while to the S. it terminates in Cauldon Low and the Weaver range. This plateau is deeply indented by the gullies and waterways of some of the most beautiful streams in England, such as the Hamps, Manifold, and Dove, which give to the district a picturesque character fuUy rivalling Derbyshire itself. The North Staffordshire coal-field, though much smaller than that of South Staffordshire, possesses more resources, the combined thick- ness of the seams being about twice as great, and it not being afl'ected by many of those faults which inteifere so seriously with the coals of the latter basin, and frequently extinguish them altogether. In addition to many valuable beds of ironstone, the workable coal-seams are 22 in number, making 100 ft. of coal. " This coal-field has the shape of a triangle, with its apex to the north at the base of Congleton Edge. 'I'he eastern side is formed of millstone grit, and the western of New Eed sandstone or Permian strata." The foUowug brief table of geological localities in the four counties, and their produce, may be of use to the brethren of the hammer. Introduction. — Physical Features and Geology. [15] Derhyshire, ASHFORD. — Carb. limestoue : Phillipsia, Actiuocrinus, Pinua, Spirifera acuta, Syringopora, Lithostrotiou, &c. Bakewell. — Carb. limestone : Platycriuus, Strombodes, Productus aculeatus, Pentremites, Cyathophyllum, &c. DOVEDALE. — Carb. limestone. Matlock. — Carb. limestone : rocks very full of typical fossils. KiNDERSCOUT. — Travertine deposit on millstone-grit. Castleton and Cavedale abound in Phillipsia and Pleurorhynchus. Traycliff. — Blue John mines. The beds here contain Phillipsia pustulata and Sj)irifera. Mam Tor. — Goniatites expausa, Bellerophon. Derwent Valley.— Rock basins, Salt-cellars, Cakes of Bread. Staveley. — Coal-fishes ; Platysomus, Paloeoniscus. Clay-Cross. — Coal-measures, Plants, and Anthracosia. Butterley. — Ditto. BOLSOVER. — Magnesian limestone-quarries. Chellaston. — 'Piaster-pits, in Keuper marl, contain Foi'aminifera, Cythere, &c. Nottingliamsli ire. New Red Sandstone caves at Nottingham, Sneinton, and Papplewick. New Red Sandstone clifls, overhanging the Trent between Nottingham and Newark. Magnesian limestone quarries at Mansfield Woodhouse. SiiiREOAKS Colliery*. — Permian beds. MusKHAM, near Newark, where human remains have been found in the valley of the Trent. Leicestershire. CuARNWOOD Forest. — Slates, hone-stones, granites, and syenites. Coleorton Coal-field. — Whitwick greenstone. MoiRA Coal-field. — Bath Colliery. Lias of Barrow-ox-Soar, where the following Fish and Sauriaus have been found: Cosmolepis Egertoni, Lepidotus serrulatus, Pholidoishorus, Ptycholepis minor. Ichthyosaurus communis, I. intermedius, I. tenui- rostris. Redmile, near Crostou. — Lias fossils. Staffordshire. Dudley. — Upper Silurian — an inexhaustible supply of typical fossils, in- cluding Terebratula, Euomphalus, Orthoceras, Bellerophon, Phacops, Calyraene Blumeubachii, Cyathocriuus, Cyathophyllum, &c. Rowley Hills. — Columnar basalt of Rowley Rag. Wetton Hill. — Ditto. The Potteries. — Coal-measures. Plants and Anthi-acosia abundant ; fishes less so, but found at Fenton and Longton. Apedale. — Coal-measures. Fish abundant. Palajoniscus, Amblypterus, Rhizo- dus, &c. Needwood. — Drift. Chalk flints and Anauchytes are common. A^dbaster is found. IVerhy, ttc] e [16] Introduction. — Communica tions. FrOGHALL. — Hreinatite in limestone. Axe Edge and Mow Cor. — Millstone-grit. Waterhouses. — Limestone quarries. Mammoth remains. South Staffordshire. — Coal-measures, abounding in fish and plants. Cauldon Low. — Limestone quarries, abounding in Productus, Bellerophon, Euomphalus, &c. Cannock Chase. — Bunter Conglomerate in railway cutting between Rugeley and Hednesford. Characteristic Silurian and Mountain Limestone fossils. II. COMMUKICATIONS. A. Derbyshire is well supplied with railways and canals. A great artery of the Midland Eailway runs through it from Trent to Manchester, passing Derby, Matlock, and Bakewell, with branches at Derby to Burton; at Duflield to Winksworth; at Ambergate to Clay Cross and Chesterfield; and at Miller's Dale to Buxton. Whilst the main line to the north, running along the Erewash Valley, to Sheffield, passes through the mineral districts of Clay Cross and Codnor Park, on the eastern border of the county, and through Chesterfield, with branches to Ambergate and Mansfield ; and a line is in the course of construction through the Peak district. The liondon and North Western Pail way has a line from Buxton to Manchester. I'he Great Northern Railway runs along the southern part of the county, from Nottingham to Uttoxeter, passing through the town of Derby, and having a branch line along the colliery district to Pinxton. The S.W. portion of Derbyshire is traversed by the North Stafford- shire Railway; a branch line from Uttoxeter runs to Ashbourne. The Manchester, Sheffield and Lincolnshire line skirts the northern boundary, and has a branch to Glossop. A new company, the Lanca- shire, Derbyshire, and East Coast Railway, are making a line from the Manchester Siiip Canal at Warrington, to the east coast at Sutton-on- the-Sea. This line will cut through the county transversely, passing Buxton and Chesterfield. In addition to the passenger railways, the colliery and ironworks districts are amply supplied with local lines for the accommodation of their traffic. Among these, the only one calling for attention is the High Peak Railway, which, as lately as the time of George IV., was the only means of inland traffic in Derbyshire. It commences at the Cromford Canal, near Cromford, takes a most circuitous route, near, though not close to, Wirksworth and liar- tingtou, and passes Buxton to Whaley Bridge. The principal canals are — 1. The Grand Trunk, which commences at Wilne Ferry, at the junction of the Derwent with the Trent, and runs thence into Stafford- shire and Cheshire to connect the Trent with the Mersey. 2. The Derby Canal, which runs in a tolerably direct line from Derby to the Grand Trunk at Swarkestone, with a branch to the Ere- wash Canal at Sandiacrc. 3. The Cromford Canal, which commences at Codnor and (sending off a branch to Pinxton) flows to Ambergate and Cromford. lulroduction. — Communications. [17] 4. The Ercwash Canal runs from the Trent up the Erewash Valley aud joins the Cromford Caual. It has a branch, called the Nulbrook: Canal. 5. The Chesterfield Canal, beginning at Chesterfield, follows up the valley of the Rother, passes through East Eetford, and eventually joins the Trent at Gainsborough. B. The Communications of Nottinghamshire are principally suppUed by the Midland Eailway Co. The main line from the south enters the county from Leicester at Trent junction, and continues up the Erewash valley, on the borders of Derbyshire, to Sheffield, whilst a loop line from Kettering passes through the town of Nottingham and rejoins the main line at Ilkeston. The line from Derby to Nottingham, Newark, and Lincoln follows the valley of the Trent the whole way, sending off two branches to Mansfield. In addition to these, the Great Northern Rly. runs through the county from Gran- tham to Bawtry, passing Newark and Ketford, with another line from Grantham to Nottingham and Derby, with a branch to NewsteaJ Abbey and Annesley, whilst a joint line of the London and North- western Railway and Great Northern Eailway skirts the S.E. border, from Melton Mowbray to Newark. The northern districts, which are agricultural and comparatively thinly populated, are traversed by the Manchester, Sheffield and Lincolnshire Ely. from Sheffield to Eetford; and a line is in course of construction by this company which will connect Sheffield with Nottingham and the south. The new line, being made by the Lancashire, Derbyshire, and East Coast Ely. Com- pany, which is to connect the east aud west coasts, will go transversely across the northern part of the county, passing through the Dukeries and Tuxford. The water navigation, owing to the breadth and depth of the rivers, is well developed ; the Trent being navigable for river craft all through the county, and the Idle from East Eetford. The Grantham Canal, commencing at Nottingham, connects the Trent with the Witham at Grantham, sending off a branch to Bingham. These two rivers are again connected near Eetford by means of a canal called the Foss Dyke, thus giving water-way to Lincoln and the Wash. The Chesterfield Canal crosses the county on the N., passing Worksop and Retford, and also joins the Trent. The Nottinuham Canal con- nects that town with the Erewash Canal at Laugley Bridge. Thus by means of the Trent, Nottingham is brou Monyash. 6. Blake Low ?• Lougstone. 6. Brushfield J) Ashfbrd. 5. Gib Hill 5J Middletou-by- Youlgreave. 6. Hay Top )J Ashfbrd. 34. Hind Low J> Church Sterndale. 5. Kenslow >) Middleton-by- Youlgreave. 6. Nether Low JJ Chelmorton. 5. Parcelly Hay )> Hartington. 34. Sharp Low >» Tissington. 2. The Ferns » Foremark. Introduction. — Antiquities. [27] Of the same period possibly as the barrows are the stone circles on Eyam Moor, the singular arrangement of rocks oo Higgar 1"or, and the defensive position of the Carl's Work above Hathersage ; the Hocking Stones, and "Nine Ladies " Circle on Stanton Moor, Robin Hood's Mark on Ashover Moor, and perhaps the earthworks at Staddon Moor ; although, considering their proximity to the Roman station of Aquis, it is just as likely that these are of later date. /3. Roman. — Derbj^shire, which was included in the district of the Coritavi, is traversed from S. to N. by the Ryknield, or Yr Icknield Street, which enters Derbyshire near Egginton, there crossing the Dove, and running to tlie station of Derventio (Little Chester, near Derby), At Breadsall it diverges a little to the rt., through Horsley and Denby. It is again seen at South Wingfield, where it may be traced to Chesterfield, supposed to be the ancient Lutudarum. A second great road probably ran from Derventio N.W. to Buxton,- believed by Gale to have been the Aquis of Ravennas, and thence was continued in the same direction to Mancunium (Manchester). Traces of it are discernible in the old turnpike road between Hartington and Buxton. A cross-road intersected this at Buxton in its course from Congleton to the Roman camp at Brough, which in the interval between Buxton and Brough is called the Batham Gate, and is easily traced across the moors at the back of lideswell. From Brough there was evidentlj' a connection with Melaadra Station (Glossop), by a road called the Doctor's Gate. In addition to these remains are the camp on Comb's Moss and the Rhedagua near Whaley Bridge. On the whole, however, Roman remains in Derbyshire are not plentiful, though in some places a number of coins, together with a few altars and some pigs of lead, have been discovered in the vicinity of roads or stations, y. In the Saxon period Derbyshire formed an important portion of the Heptarchy, Repton (Repandunum) being the capital of Mercia and the burial-place of the Mercian kings. To this date accordingly is attributed by some antiquaries the crypt in Repton church. Bakewell also w^as well known as a Mercian town, although there are now no Saxon remains. The Danes have left some traces behind them, as in the name of Derby ; some works at Eckington, known as the Danes' Balk ; a doubtful camp at Hathersage; and the cemetery at Knowl Hill, near Foremark, which latter, however, is ascribed to them on only slight tradition. 6. Medimval. — Of the castles that Derbyshire once possessed, only three, viz. Codnor, Bolsover, and the Castle of the Peak, remain, and even they are not of considerable extent : the last owes its celebrity partly to the situation and partly to its association with the writings of Sir Walter Scott. Of Gresley, Horsley, and Chesterfield Castles, there are very few traces. There are, however, some very i\p.Q speci- mens of domestic architecture, chiefly of the 15th and 16th centuries. These are — [28] Introduction. — Antiquities. Koute 4. Barlborougli Hall Elizabethan. 13. Bolsover Castle 16tli centy. 7. Bradshaw Hall 17tli centy. 6. Haddon Hall . . . . 15th centy, 13. Hardwick Hall » . Elizabethan. 13. Old Hardwick Henry VH. 34. Tissington Hall Elizabethan. 4. Wingerworth Hall 17th centy. 4. Wingfield Manor-house 15th centy. The remains of ecclesiastical establishments are still more scanty, and are limited to three, viz., Dale Abbey, some remains of the Priory at Repton, and Beauchief Abbey : a window or a few arches are the only remnants even of these, except in the latter case, which retains, though modernized, a considerable portion of the old building. The churches however, will afford more scope for the ecclesiologist, many of them being of considerable size and beauty, and rich in monumental remains. " No other part of the country of the same size has anything like the same extensive variety of styles and excellent specimens of every period, both in the ecclesiastical fabrics themselves, and in the monumental remains and other details that they shelter." — Cox. The following is'^a table of those most worth attention : — Koute 34. Ashbourne . . . . E. E. : Dec. spire : monuments : brasses. 3. Alfreton . . . . Monuments. 6. Ashford . . . . Effigy on wall. 4. Ashover . . . . Mon. brasses, 16th centy. 4. Allestree . . . . Norm, doorway. 6. Bakewell .. .. Monuments, spire,cross: remnantofNorm. nave. 13. Bolsover . . . . Monuments. 4. Brampton . . . . Monuments. 4. Breadsall . . . . Monuments. Pieta. 2. Breedon . . . . The Shirley pew and monuments, 10. Chaddesden . . . . Monuments. 6. Chelmorton . . . . Dwarf stone chancel-screen, 5. Cromford . . . . Monument by Chantrey. 4. Chesterfield.. .. Perp.: crooked spire, screen, monuments,brasses. 5. Crich Monuments. 10. Dale Singing gallery. 4, Darley Monuments. 4. Duffield . . . . Monuments. 4, Denby Monuments. 1. Derby, All Saints. . Perp. Tower, monuments, screen, stained glass. „ St. Alkmund's Dec. monument. „ St. Andi-ew's Modern. „ St. Peter's . . Perp. 5. Dethick . , . , Perp. 4. Dronfield , . . . Dec. : stalls, monuments, brasses. 10. Elvaston . . . . Screen, monuments. 1. Etwall Monuments and brasses, IGth centy. Introduction. — Antiquities. [29] Route 8. Eyam Cross in churchyard, gravestones. 34. Fenny Bentley . . Screen. 1. Findern . . . . Modern : Norm, tympanum preserved. 34. Hartington . . . . Cruciform ch., interesting, though small. 8. Hathersage . . . . Dec. : stained glass, monuments, brasses. 3. Heanor Monuments. 8. Hope Chamber over porch, gurgoyles. 3. Ilkeston . . . . Screen, stained glass. 1. Kedleston . . . . Monuments, brass, 15th centy. 33. Marston Montgomery Saxon arch. 5. Matlock . . . . Roof. 4. Morley Stained glass, monuments, brasses. 2. l\Ielbourne . . . . Norm, (restored) : monuments. 7. Mellor Font and Pulpit. 34. Norbury .. .. Stained glass, monuments,brasses,screen,& stalls. 1. Normanton . . . . Norm. : corbel-table. 4. Norton Monuments. 5. Rowsley . . , , Monuments. 1. Repton Sason crypt, Dec. nave. 3. Sandiacre . . . . Dec. : large chancel, E. window. 10. Sawley Saxon arch : 15th-centy. brasses. 4. Shirlaud . . . . Perp. : monuments. 2. Stanton-by-Bridge Monuments, 16th centy. 3. Stapleford . . . . Monuments. 4. Staveley . . . . Monuments, brasses. 13. Sutton in Ashfield Jlonuments. 2. Swarkeston . . . . Norm. : monuments. 13. Teversall . . . , Monuments. 6. Tideswell .. .. Dec. tower :monuments,brasses: general dignity. 1. Willington . , . . Norm. : doorway. 10. Wilue Saxon font. 4. Wirksworth . . Perp. : chapels, monuments, brasses, bas-relief. 5. Youlgreave . . . . Font : Perp. tower. Holy Well. King's Newton, near Melbourne. Crosses. Bakewell. Blackwell. Eyam. Hope, Taddington. Wheston. B. The antiquities of Nottinghamshire will not bear comparison in interest or number with those of Derbyshire, there being indeed none of Celtic origin, and only one early remain considered by Mr. Batemau to be of Saxon date, viz. the burying-place at Cotgreave, to the S. of Bingham. Nottingham, however, though containing now no actual Saxon remains, was yet famous in those days for its caves ia the sandstone, from which it derived its name of Snottengham. Eoman remains are limited mainl}^ to the Fosse AVay, which entered the county near Willoughby-iu-the-Wold in its course from Leicester (Ratas) to Lincoln. A tradition at Willoughby that tiie ruins of a great city lie buried near it, and the discovery of coins, would seem to corroborate the notion that it had been a Roman station. Thence it runs N.E. through East Bridgcford, near Bingham, Avhere ai'e remains of a camp which is thought by some antiquaries to liave been the station of Veruometum. From Bridgeford it proceeded to Newark, [30] Introduction. — Antiquities. finally leaving tbe county at Collingliam. The greater part of its course is now a turnpike-road. There is also a tesselated pavement, together with some remains of ancient fortifications, at Barton-in- Fabis (i.e. Barton-in-the-Beans), near Trent Junction. Mediceval remains are not very numerous, considering the size and importance of the county. Newark is the only castle worth mention- ing, as that of Nottingham was reduced to a ruin in the 17th century. It was rebuilt after the Reformation, and again destroyed during the Eeform riots in 1831. It has since been converted into a Museum and Art Gallery. Of Cuckney and Gresley Castles there are but slight traces. Of abbeys and monastic remains Newstead is the most im- portant and the most beautiful, though its adaption to residential ])urposes has put it out of the pale of mediaeval buildings, the west Iront of the church excepted. Next in preservation are the conventual remains at Radford, a suburb of Worksop ; of Mattersey and Beauvale there are very small remains ; and of the Priory of Thurgarton, none except a bay of the present church. Worksop church is the nave of the ancient Abbey. Newark church has the dignity of a Minster, and is of great beauty. Retford church is also very fine. In two cases, viz. at Scrooby and Southwell, we have ancient domestic buildings still in use as residences ; the only other domestic remains (and those of the rudest character) left are those of King John's palace near Ollerton, and, of a later date, the still inhabited halls oi' Carcolston, Shelford, and Kingshaugh, as well as the noble Elizabethan mansion of WoUaton. In modernized mansions, however, Nottinghamshire is very rich, probably containing more than any county in England for its size ; of these the principal are New- stead, Clumber, Thoresby, Welbeck, Rufford, and Serlby, all of them within the area of Sherwood Forest, that old familiar resort " Of Robin Hood and Little John ; Of Scarlock, George a Green, and Mucli tlie Miller's Son ; Of Tuck the merry friar, which many a sermon made In praise of Robin Hood, his outlaws, and their trade." —Drayton. It may at first sight appear singular that this district afibrds so few traces of the bold outlaw and his men, with whom the history of Nottinghamshire is identified ; but when we reflect on the roving and sylvan character of Robin Hood, it is evident that he was not likely, from the nature of his habits and pursuits, to leave behind him much except tradition. The attempts to elucidate the history uf Robin Hood have been various ; some writers maintaining his identity with an Earl of Hunt- ingdon, the mainstay of which theory is the inscription at Kirklees, in Yorkshire. This, however, is now known to be a fabrication. Thierry, in his ' English History,' speaks of him as the chief of a body of Saxons collected together in hostility to the Normans. Others again consider him as a myth altogether, a mere peg whereon to hang the national love of sylvan lore. It would seem, however, that he was a veritable personage living in the time of Henry III., probably an Introduction. — Antiquities. [;) 1 ] adherent of Simon de Montfort, who, after the disastrous battle of Evesham, retired into the forest, and there made war on his own account upon his majesty's liefzes. Mr. Hunter, in his short treatise upon Robin Hood, endeavours to show from public records that, during the King's progress in Lancashire and Nottinghamshire, Eobin Hood was pardoned and received into the royal household. " The outlaw's was eminently a life which fitted him to be the hero of a song ; in its most obvious features poetical, spent in the open country or in the depths of forests, there was nothing in nature which the poet might not summon up for the embellishment of his story ; full also of adventure, some tragic occurrences, and some lartaking of that good humour and disposition to merriment which are distinguishable features of his character." — Hunter. The following is a list of the most interesting Nottinghamshire churches, which, however, are scarcely equal in size or beauty to those of Derbyshire or Leicestershire : — Koute 12. Aslactoa jMonuments. 10. Attenborough . . . . Jlonuments. 11. Averham Monuments. 17. Bawtry Norm. 12. Bingham E. E. and Dec. 18. Blvth Conventual Ch., monuments, screen. 10. Clifton Jlonuments and brasses. 10. Colwick l^Ionuments. 11. Hawtou Founder's sepulchre, stained glass. 17. Holme Monuments and chamber porch. 12. Holme Pierrepont . . Monuments. 13. Hucknall Torkard . . Byron's monument. 16. Kelham Monuments. 13. Mansfield . . . . Monuments. 15. Manstield Woodhouse Sanctus bell. 17. East Markham . . Monuments. 11. Newark Dec. : steeple and spire, stained glass, brasses : general size and dignity. 10. Nottingham, St. Mary's Perp. windows, Norm, porch. „ St. Barnabas Modern R. C. Cathedral, £. E. 17. Retford Size and dignity. 14. Southwell Minster . . Norm, and E. E. 11. Thurgarton .. .. Portion of old abbey Ch. 17. Tuxford Monuments. 12. Whatton Jlonuments. 10. WoUaton . . . . Monuments. 15. Worksop Norm, monuments, nave of abbey. c. Leicestershire is an interesting county to the antiquary and the ecclesiologist, particularly in remains of mcdia3val date. Of Early Bemains there are but few ; viz. an encampment on Bea- con Hill, near Mount Sorrel, where a number of celts ai^d armlets have been lound ; and the tumuli and earthworks on Saltby Heath, near Croxton Park. [_Derhy, cic] d [32] Introduction. — Antiquities. Boman. — There are two Eoman roads in Leicestersliire. The Wat- ling Street, which enters the county on the S.W. near Lutterworth, and leaves it near Mancetter (Manvessedunum), in Warwickshire. About midway between the two places is High Cross, the ancient Bennones or Venuones, where the Fosse Way enters Leicestershire and runs through the couuty to Rataj (Leicester), and on to Willoughby and Bridgeford (Vernometum) in Nottinghamshire. Camden, and Burton the Leicestershire antiquary, bnth testify to the finding of coins near High Cross, where the tradition of a ruined city at Clay- brooke, close adjoining, is still extant. For otlier Roman remains Leicester can point to its Jewry Wall, one of the finest relics of the kind in England ; its milestone, which clearly points to its identity with Rata3 ; and the Rawdykes, the old Rhedagua of the charioteers. There are also several camps, particularly in the E. part of the county — at Burrow and Billesdon. The termination of the names of the villages in this district, and the fact that Medbourne, near Market Harborough, is said to have been a Roman station and to have yielded a number of coins, makes it probable that a road led from hence through Melton to join the Fosse Way. Danish. — Although no remains can be pointed out, which can be attributed to the Danes, it is well known that Leicestershire was part of the Danelagh, and this is corroborated by the names of the villages, many terminating in " by," such as Ashby, Brooksby, Frisby, &c., which is so common as to be almost the rule. In Medimml remains and churches Leicestershire is tolerably rich. Of its castles, Ashby-de-la-Zouch, Castle Donington and Kirkby Muxloe (with its brick courses), still show traces of their former importance (the former in particular), whilst at Earl Shilton, Groby, Hinckley, and Whitwick little more than the site remains. Of religious houses there are the ruins of Gracedieu, the Priory of Ulverscroft, the boundary wall of Leicester Abbey, and some slight traces of Lubbesthorpe Abbey. Of old mansions, the most noticeable are Laund Abbey, Nevill Holt, Noseley, Quenby, and Withcote, all Elizabethan; Beau- manor, Coleorton, Garendon, and Roecliffe are all very fine modern houses. Of churches, Leicester contains several of much interest, which, together with Melton, are sufficient to attract the antiquary. There are, however, a considerable number of village churches contain- ing many curious points ; and the county has to thank the Leicester- shire Archa?ological Society for directing public attention to their preservation and restoration. The following list includes the churches best worth seeing :— Eoute 23. Ashby Monuments; finger pillory. 24. Belton Monuments. 12. Bottesford Perp. : monuments. 21. Brooksby Monuments. 21. Burton Lazars .. .. Bell-tower. 19. Burton Overy .. ., Sculpture. 19. Carltou-Curlieu .. .. Monuments. )» Introduction. — Antiquities. [33] Route 24. Coleorton Stained glass. 25. Cortlingstock or Costock Monument outside the ch. 20. Earl Shilton Modern frescoes. 25. Frolesworth Monuments. 24. Gracedieu R. C. chapel ; stained glass. 23. Gresley Monuments. 20. Hinckley Monuments. 25. Kegwoi-th Stained glass. 25. Leake Monuments. 25. Lockington Chantry chapel. 19. Leicester, St. Nicholas ,. Norm.; portion of Roman materials, „ St. Mary's .. .. Norm, and E. E. All Saints' . . . . Norm. St. Martin's . . Mixed styles. „ St. Margaret's .. Perp. 25. Loughborough . . . . Cruciform ch., brasses. 25. Lutterworth Wycliffe's reputed relics. 20. Market Bosworth .. .. Monuments. 19. Market Harborough . . 14th centy. 21. Melton Mowbray .. .. E. E. ; Perp. 23. Nether Seal Monuments (15th centy.). 19. Nevill Holt Dec. and Perp. : monuments. 25. Prestwold Monuments. 24. Whitwick Monuments. 19. Wistow Monuments. 25. Woodhouse Miserere seats. 25. Wymeswold Well restored. 25. Wysall Stained glass. D. The antiquities of Staffordshire are of more importance than- those of either Notts or Leicestershire. a. Early British remains are tolerably mtmerous, and much was done, particularly in the northern part of the county, by the labours of Messrs. Bateman, Carrington, and Garner, to elucidate them. In the neighbourhood of Wetton no less than 23 barrows were opened, two- thirds of which appeared to belong to the early Stone period. Some of them contained human bones, generally calcined, together with vessels, urns, stags' horns, fibular, &c. The Borough, near Wetton, seems to have been an important British vilbge, containing traces of the round pits generally seen in those localities, and yieLiing remains of celts, stone hammers, and human bones. On the floor of Thor's Cave were many articles of the later Celtic period, such as bronze aimlets, tibulaj, and rings, implements of iron, perforated pins and tools of bone, frag- ments of querns, and some articles of Samian ware. Mr. Garner men- tions the discovery of several British ornaments, such as torques, one of which was found in Needwuod Forest. xVmong the most interest- ing barrows opened in Stallbrdshire are — Saxon Low, near Tittensor ; Bury Bank, ditto; * Moat-in-Ribden, at the foot of Weaver ; Mayfield ; d 2 [34] Introduction. — Antiquities. and a great number in the parishes of Wetton, Cauldron, Alstonefield, Stanton, Waterfall, and Ham. In fact, the whole of the moorland grit and limestone district is covered with barrows and burial-places of more or less size, evincing the former presence of a large population. /3. Roman. — There are several camps in the county, probably British, but, as was often the case, afterwards utilized by the Komans. Of tiiese were the camps near Whitmoie, and at Beaudesert, and Knave's Castle, in the neighbourhood of Etocetum (now Wall, near Lichrield). This was the great stronghold of the Komans in Stafford- shire, to which converged the main lines of road, viz. Yr Icknield or Eyknield t>treet, which entered the county at Birmingham, and took a north-easterly course through Etocetum to Burton-on- Trent, thence to Derby (Derventio); and the Watling Street, which entered at Fazeley and ran right across on its way from Etocetum to Uriconium (Wroxeter), The names of places and hamlets on the line of these roads sufficiently betoken their relationship to them. Penkridge was thought by some antiquaries to have been the old Pennocrocium, while others place it on the site of one of the numerous " Strettons;" y. Of MedicEval Remains, especially in the matter of churches, there is ample store. Staffordshire was famous then, even as it is now, for its fine mansions, beautiful plates of which are given in Plot's Natural . History of that county ; and if it cannot boast of the largest or finest, it possesses the most graceful cathedral in England, which in itself would be sufficient to attract the archaeologist. The following is a list of the principal ancient mansions and domestic remains : — Koute Route 31. Aqualate. 28. Prestwood. 31. Beaudesert. 31. Ranton Abbey. 27. Bentley Hall. 28. Rushall. 36. Biddulph. 28. Stourton Castle. 33. Caverswall. 29. Tamworth Castle. 32. Chartley Castle. 34. Throwley Hall. 26. Chillington. 31. Tixall ; Tudor Gateway ; 28. Dudley Castle. house moderu. 28. Euville Hall. 33. Tutbury Castle. 32. Gayton. 26. Wrottesley Hall. 30. Hamstall Kid ware. 30. Wyrley.* 28. Holbeacb. Of churches, the following are the best worth the attention of the tourist : — Route 30. Abbot's Bromley. . Monuments; deerheads. 28. Aldridge , . . . Monuments ; windows. 31. Armitage . . . . Norm, doorway. 27. Ashley Monuments. * Beside these, Staffordshire abounds in fine estates, with modern houses, which are in various ways deserving of notice, such as Ham Hall, Alton Towers, Shugborough, Patttehull, Kcclc Hall, Trcntham, lugestre, &c. Introduction. — Antiquities. [35] Route 28. Alrewas . . . . Monuments. 34. Alstonefield. . .. Carvings. 27. Audley Tombs and brass. 27. Brewood . . . . Monuments. 29. Burton Altarpiece. 35. Cheadle . . . . Oak carving. „ R. C. Cathedral By Pugin ; fine spire and internal decorations. 33. Checkley . . . . Monuments ; ancient churchyard cross. 31. Colton Sedilia; font. 31. Colwich . . . . Monuments. 29. Croxall Monuments. 33. Draycott . . . . Monuments. 26. Eccleshall . . . . Restored. 28. El ford Monuments. 33. EUastone . . . . Monuments. 30. Ellenhall . . . . Pulpit-cloth. 27. Enville Monuments. 30. Farwell . . . . Windows ; stalls. 30. Gnosall . . . . Monuments. 25. Handsworth .. Monuments. 29. Hamstall Ridware Stalls ; screen ; glass. 32. Hanbury , . . . Monuments ; brasses. 30. High OfBey .. .. Monuments. 34. Horton Glass ; monuments. 33. Ham Beautifully restored; men. by Chantrey ; mor- tuary chapel. 27. Kinver Monuments, brass. 34. Leek Rose window : fine (rebuilt) chancel; ancient churchyard cross. 32. Leigh Monuments. 27. Lichfield Cathedral. „ St. Mary's . . Modern. „ St. Michael's Restored. 30. Longdon .. .. Monuments. 26. Madeley . . . . Sedilia, monuments. 29. Mavesyn-Ridware Monuments. 32. Marchington .. Monuments. 36. Newcastle . . . . Tower ancient ; body modern. 30. Norbury .. .. Monuments; brass. 26. Penkridge .. .. Monuments. 31. Ranton Abbey .. Fine tower. 32. RoUeston . . . . Norm, doorway ; monuments, 34. Rushton Spencer.. Mainly timber. 31. Saudon Monuments; glass. 26. Shareshill .. .. Monuments. 33. Sheen Good modern ch., with stone roof to chancel. 26. Stafibrd, St. Mary's Monuments ; general grandeur. „ St. Chad's Norm. 31. Stone Monuments. 31. Stowe Monuments; brass, '* 28. Tam worth . . . . Staircase ; crypt ; general dignity. 25. Tettenhall .. .. Monuments. [36] Introduction.— SJceleton Tours. Koute 31. Trentham .. 32. Tutbury 25. Wednesbuiy 25. West Bromwich 25. Wolverhampton 32. Wolstanton . . 29. Yoxall Monuments ; Jacobean screen, brasses. Norm. door. Monuments. Monuments. Monuments ; pulpit : ancient churchyard cross. Spire : restoration. Monuments; brass. Of ecclesiastical remains ttere are only : — Route 28. Burton . . . . Some arches of abbey. 34. Croxden . . . . Very fine ruins. 34. Dieulacresse . . Scattered details. 34. Rocester . . . . Very slight. V. Skeleton Tours. A. — TouB OF Oke Month through Derbyshire, Notts, and Leicestershire. 1. By rail from Crewe or Burton to Ashbourne. Excursion up Dovedale. 2. To Hartington, by Fenny Bentley and Tissington. See Arborlow, Gib Hill, Eock Scenery at Staunton and Youlgreave ; thence to Kowsley. See Chatsworth, Haddon Hall, and sleep at Bakewell. Excursion to the Lathkill and Parson's Tor. Drive to Ashford and Miller's Dale ; thence by rail to Buxton. See Buxton. Poole's Hole. Excursion to Axe Edge, and back by Staddon Moor. Buxton to Chapel-en-le-Frith ; whence excursion to Hayfield and Kinderfall. On to Castleton. See Peak Cavern, the Speedwell Cavern, and Winnatts. See Odin's Cave, Blue John Mine, Mam Tor. Hope ; Brough ; Hathersage ; Higgar Tor ; Carl's Work. Eyam ; Stoney Middleton ; Baslow. Drive to Sheflfield by Beauchief and Norton. Sheffield ; by rail to Chesterfield. See Bolsover and Hardwick Hall. By rail to Wiugfield. See Wingfield Manor House. Drive from Alfreton through Crich to Matlock. See Matlock, Caves, &c. Excursion to Bonsall and Wirksworth, Cromford and Willersley. Excursion to Matlock Bank and Darley Dale. By rail to Ambergate and Belper. If time, walk to Depth o' Lumb and proceed by rail to Derby. See Derby and (if open) Kedleston. Excursion to Melbourne, King's Newton, Kepton, and Burton ; re- turning by rail to Derby. Derby to Ilkeston, Dale Abbey, and Mansfield. Mansfield to Clipstone, Birkland Forest, and Worksop. Worksop to Blyth, Roche Abbey, and Bawtry ; then by rail to Retford. Retford by rail to Newark. See Hawtou and Southwell. Newark to Nottingham. See Nottingham. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. Introduction. — Skeleton Tours. [37] 22. See Wollaton. By rail to Bottesford, and drive to Belvoir. Sleep at Belvoir Inn. 23. Drive over the Wolds to Melton. See Melton and Burton Lazars. 24. By rail to Syston and Loughborough. Excursion to Costock Ch. and some of the neighbouring churches. By rail to Leicester. 25. See Leicester. 26. By rail to Market Harborough ; di'ive to Lutterworth, and rejoin rly. at UUesthorpe stat. for Hinckley. 27. See Hinckley and Bosworth Field. 28. Excursion to Kirby Muxloe, Groby, Bradgate, and Ulverscroft. 29. By rail to Bardon Hill. See Monastery. By rail from Coalville to Ashby-de-la-Zouch. 30. Ashby-de-la-Zouch. Excursion to Gracedieu, Staunton Harold, and Whitwick. By rail to Burton. B.— Pedestrian TorrR in Derbyshire op a Fortnight. 1. By rail to Ashbourne. Thence to Ham and the Izaak Walton Inn. 2. Explore the Manifold Yalley with Thor's Cave. 3. Up Dovedale and Beresford Dale to Hartington. 4. To Winster, Staunton, and Kowsley. 5. See Chatswortli, H;iddon, Bakowell, and proceed to Ashford. 6. To Buxton along Miller's Dale. 7. Buxton, Axe Edge, Hindlow, Staddon. 8. From Buxton by rail to Doveholes ; on to Castleton. See Caverns. 9. From Castleton to the Valley of Edale, Kinderscout, and thence to Glossop. 10. Glossop to Ashopton. Excursion up the Derwent to Cakes of Bread. 11. From Ashopton along the Muors to Hathersage. 12. From Hathersage over the Moors to Eyam, Middleton Dale, Baslow, and Rovvsley ; by rail to Matlock. 13. See Matlock. Walk to Ashover, catching train at Stretton for Chester- field ; or for Wingfield, and next morning to Chesterfield. 14. Chesterfield to Hardwick and Bolsover. 15. From Bolsover through Markland Grips to Worksop. c. — Tour of One Month through Staffordshire and Derbyshire. 1. Handsworth Old Parish Ch. St. Michael's Ch., Soho. Smethwick Glassworks. Wednesbury. Sleep at Wolverhampton. 2. Wolverhampton Ch. Japanning Manufoctory. Excursion to Tetten- hall and Wrottesley. 3. To Dudley. See Castle. Wren's Nest. Excursion to Holbeach and Euville, returning by Kinver to Stourbridge, and back by rail. 4. Walsall. Rushall. Aldridge Ch. Shenstone. Lichfield. 5. At Lichfield. Excursiou to Wall, Weeford, &c. 6. Excursion to Tamworth ; see Elford, and return by Alrewas. 7. Lichfield to Arraitage. Excursiou to Beaudesert, Mavesyn-Ridware and Abbot's Bromley. Sleep at Rugeley. 8. Colwich. Shugborough. Stafford. » 9. Excursion by rail to Four Ashes, for Brewood and Chillington. 10. To Stone, Sandon, and Chartley. Sleep at Stoke-on-Trent. [38] Introduction. — SJceleton Tours. 11. Excursion to Harecastle, Burslem, and Wolstanton. See Minton and Copeland's Show-rooms. 12. Excursion to Trentham ; then on to Etruria and Newcastle-under- Lynie. 13. Excursion to Biddulph. Ascend Mow Cop. Sleep at Congleton. 14. By rail from Congleton to Leek, and down the Churnet Valley to Alton Towers. Sleep at Uttoxeter. 15. Excursion to Tutbury and Burton. Sleep at Ashbourne. 16. Excursion up Dovedale ; return to Ham. 17. Excursion to Thor's Cave and the Manifold ; return to Ham. 18. Drive by Fenny Bentley, to Hartington. Then as in A, days 3 to 15. D. — Pedestrian Tour through North Staffordshire. 1. Kail from Colwich to Weston or Sandon. Walk by Chartley to Ut- toxeter. 2. Rail to Alton. Then walk by Wootton and the Weaver Hills to Ham. 3. To Ashbourne by Okeover. returning by Fenny Bentley and Thorpe. 4. I p the Manifold to Grindon and Thor's Cave, returning by Wetton. 5. Up Dovedale and Beresford Dale to Hartington. 6. Walk to Longnor. Earl Sterndale, and Buxton. 7. Over Axe Edge ; by Flash, to Leek. 8. Rudyard. Eushton Spencer. Mow Cop. Congleton. 9. Biddulph. New Chapel. Stoke-on-Trent. The tourist can thence proceed by rail to Derby and Matlock, or to Burtou-on-Trent for Charnwood. CORRECTIONS AND ADDITIONS, 1904. Page 6, 1. 23. Delete " navigable." P. 25, col. 2, 1. 9. For " is in progress," read " runs." P. 51, col. 2, 1. 10. For " will shortly be opened," read " now runs." P. 67, col. 2, I. 3. For "to the liberality," read " at the instance." „ „ 1. 4. Omit " commonly." „ „ 1. 5. For " Sir Robert's Bridge," read " Wilford Bridge." P. 68, col. 1, 1. 2. For " Lene," read " Leen." „ „ 1. 27. For " North Parade," read " Long Eow." P. 70, col. 2, 1. 3. For '• are," read " were." „ „ I. 35. For " it is merely a serpentine road with shrubberies near the racecourse," read " a large Recreation Ground, with cricket fields and the old racecourse. On the S. slopes are walks running amongst shrubberies and plantations." „ „ 1. 44:. Omit "enlarged to serve as catacombs." P. 71, col. 1, 1. 38. Omit " but has been very much altered and modernised." P. 72, col. 1, 1. 17. For " in the rear of the building," read " attached to the W. wing." P. 96, col. 1, 1. 10. For " Birkiand Forest," read " The Birklands." P. 108, col. 2, 1. 25. For " Carnarvon," read " Cardigan." P. 169, col. 2, 1. 43. For " Waldyke," read " Waldyve." P. 178, col. 1, 1. 24. Add Hoar Cross. The Ch. of the Holy Angels (Archts.. Messrs. Bodley & Garner) was erected 1872-76, at a coot of upwards of 80,000Z., by the Hon. Mrs, Maynell-Ingram, in memory of her husband. It is a handsome cruciform build- ing of red sandstone, in late 14th cent, style, with a lofty central tower and four chapels. The interior is richly decorated, and there is an elaborately carved oak screen at the entrance to the chancel. The windows have rich stained glass representing numerous saints, and there are several oil paintings. The Great Central Railway (hitherto known as the Manchester, Sheflield and Lincolnshire Railway) lias a line from Manchester to London. This line enters Derbyshire at Beighton and runs to Nottingham, having stations at Killamarsh, Eckington and Renishaw, Staveley Town, Heath, Pilsley, Tibshelf Town, in Derbyshire ; Kirkby and Pinxton, Hucknall Town, Bulwell Common, New Bastord, and Carriiigton, in Nottinghamshire. From Nottingham, Great Central Station, Manstield Road, the line pro- ceeds to Leicester, with stations at Arkwright Street (Nottingham), Ruddington, East Leake, in Nottinghamshire, and Loughborough, Quoru and Woodhouse, Rolhley, Belgrave and Birstall, in Ijcicestershire. From Leicester, Central Station, the line continues through Whetstone. Ashby Magna and Lutterworth, at wliich places there arc stations, and quits Ijcicestershire just before reaching Rugby. Derby. — vi. '04, / HANDBOOK FOB DERBY, NOTTS, LEICESTER, AND STAFFORD. ROUTES. *** The names of places are printed in black in those Routes where the places are described. Those of which the hotels, conveyances, &c., are noted in the Index are distinguished by the marS 5 • ROUTE PAGE 1. Burton to Derby [Repton] . 2 2. Derby to Trent Junction, bj' Melbourne and Castle Donington 10 3. Trent Junction to Chester- field, by Ilkeston, Alfre- ton, and Clay Cross . . 13 4. Derby to Sheffield, by Belper and Chesterfield [Wirksworth] . . . . IG 5. Derby to Bakewell, by Matlock and Eowsley . 26 6. Bakewell to Buxton [Had- don Hall, Chatsworth, the Lathkill, Tideswell] . . 33 7. Buxton to Manchester, by Chapel-en-le-Fritli . . 4G 8. Chapel-en-le-Frith to Bake- well, by Castleton, Hope, Hathersage, and Eyam [The Peak] 52 9. Buxton to Hayfield and Glossop G3 10. Derby to Nottingham, by Trent Junction ... 64 11. Nottingham to Lincoln, by Newark 74 12. Nottingham to Grantham, by Bingham and Bottes- ford [Belvoir] .... 78 [Derby, dc] ROUTE PAGE 13. Nottiugliam to Mansfield, by Newstead [Hardwick Hall, Bolsover] ... 82 14. Newark to Mansfield, by Southwell 92 15. Mansfield to Worksop and Retford [WelbeckJ . . 95 16. Newark to Worksop, by 01- lerton[Thoresby,Clumber] 99 17. Newark to Doncaster, by Tuxford, Retford, and Bawtry 101 18. Worksop to Doncaster, by Tickhill [Blyth, Roche Abbey] 104 19. Market Harborough to Lei- cester 106 20. Nuneaton to Leicester, by Hinckley [Bosworth Field] 114 21. Leicester to Melton Mow- bray and Oakliam . . 116 22. Market Harborough to Newark 119 23. Leicester to Burton, by Ashby-de-la-Zouch . . 121 24. Asldiy-de-la-Zoucli to J.oi- cester, through Charnwood Forest [St. Bernard's Mo- nastry, Bradgate Park] . 124 li Boute 1. — Burton to Derhij. i;OUTE PAGE 25. Rugby to Trent Junction, by Leicester, Mount Sor- rel, and Loughborough [Lutterworth]. . . .129 26. Biriningliam to Wellington, by West Bromwich and Wolverhampton . . .134 27. Birmingham to Crewe, by Wolverhampton, Bush- bury, and Stafford . . 142 28. Stourbridge to Burtou-on- Treut, by Dudley, Wal- sall, and Lichfield . .152 23. Birmingham to Burton-on- Trent, by Tamworth . .169 30 Walsall to Rugeley, by Can- nock [Needwood Forest] . 175 31 Tamworth to Newport, by » Rugeley, Colwich, and Stafford 179 ROUTE PAGE 32. Colwich to Stoke - on - Trent, by Sandon, Stone, and Trentham [Chart- ley] 183 33. Crewe to Burton-on-Trent, by Stoke-on-Trent, TJt- toxeter, and Tutbury [The Potteries] 188 34. Uttoxeter to Buxton, by Ashbourne and Harting- ton [Dovedale] . . . 196 35. Uttoxeter to Macclesfield, by Alton Towers and Leek [Cheadle] . . .206 36. Stoke-on-Trent to Congle- ton, by Biddulph , . .213 37. Stoke-on-Trent to Market Drayton, by Newcastle- under-Lyme . . . .215 EOUTE 1. BURTON TO DERBY [REPTON]. MIDLAND RAILWAY. 11 m. For Burton, see Rte. 29. Less than 1 m. from Burton Stat, the North Staffordshire line branches off on N, at Horninglow (Stat.) for Tutbury, the Potteries, &c. (see Rte. 33). The Midland line runs parallel for some distance with the ancient Icknield Street, and over- looks the broad meadows, through which the clear deep wafers of the Trent flow. At 3 m. the Dove is crossed, which shortly after flows into the Trent. Opposite the junc- tion is the village of Newton Solney, with an E. E. and Perp. 67*. (re- stored 1884), which contains three remarkable eiflgies of members of the De Suluey family ; one, clad in banded mail (c. 1300), is engraved in Hewitt's 'Ancient Arms and Armour,' vol. i. Newton Hall (R Ratcliff, Esq.) has fine grounds stretching down to the river, and is seen from the rly. 4i m. Willington and Repton (Sta't.). The village of Willington is very small, but the Norm, door- way of the Ch. is worth notice ; there is also a handsome modern toll-bridge over the Trent. 1 m. W. is Egginton (Junct. Stat. Great Northern and N. Staff. Rlys.). The Ch., dedicated to St. Wilfred, is a small building near one of the branches of the Dove. Egginton Hall (Sir H. F. Every, Bart.) is a modern mansion, in a handsome park. 1 m. S. is Eepton, the Hreopandun of the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle, and the capital of Mercia. Here Etliel- bald, slain by Offa, was buried in 755; and here the Northmen esta- blished themselves in the latter part Bonfe 1. — Etwall. of the 9tli centy. Repton possesses a richly eadowo.l Grammar School, founded by Sir John Porte, in 1557, which now niunbers 300 boys. The school precincts are entered tiirough an ancient arch, formerly the gate- tcay of the Priori/ of Black Canons, portions of which arc still preserved. The Cellarer's buildings are now used as a schoolroom, and a master's board- ing-house. The head-master's house, with a fine brick tower of Henry VI.'s reign, was of old the prior's residence. In levelling the cricket field, which is bounded on three sides by the Priory wall, a mediaeval tile oven was discovered, consisting of two small chambers side by side, 5 ft. in length by 2 ft. in width. This has been boarded over and is carefully ijreserved. At least 20 different patterns of 14th-centy. tiles were found within, and are now arranged about the fireplace in the schoolroom. The new buildings in the Perp. style were erected in 1886, by Sir A. W. Blomfield, A.R.A., as a memorial to the late Dr. Pears, on the site of the old Priory Church, of which a portion of the foundations remains carefully preserved. Additional class rooms adjoining the ancient slype, which still exists, were added in 1888. The Churcli, conspicuous for its lofty spire of peculiar elegance 210 ft. high, is dedicated to St. Wystan. The nave is chiefly of Dec. character, but the fabric ex- hibits specimens of other styles. The chancel, excepting the E. win- dow, belongs to the Anglo-Saxon period, probably 958-975. Beneath the chancel is a most remarkable crypt, 17 ft. square, supposed to have been a portion of the old Saxon Abbey founded here in the 7tli cent., and destroyed by the Danes in 874. The vaulted roof of stone is sup- ported by four round pillars, spirally wreathed, with square capitals. The entrance to this crypt from the Ch. is by means of two Saxon stair- ways at the W. angles. There are some monuments to the family of Thacker ; and in the crypt is an alabaster effigy of a knight in plate armour of the early part of the 15th cent. The Ch. was partially re- stored in 1886. 1| m. E. of Repton is Foremark Hall, belonging to the Burdett family. The mansion was erected about 1760, and contains a very fine collection of family pictures. The estates descended to the Burdetts from a female ancestor of the name of Francis. The park and gi'ounds are very pretty, especially near the river, a tributary of the Trent, where are some caverned rocks called Anchor Church, from the story of a liermit having made them his retreat. The Ch. of Foremark, built in 1662, is very small and plain. At Ingleby, 1 m. E., is an elm-tree, believed to be 600 years old, but still vigorous. 3 m. X. of Willington is the vil- lage of EtwaU (Stat. G. N. Rly.), once a possession of "Welbcck Abbey, in Notts, but given in 1540 by Henry VIII. to Sir John Porte, one of the justices of the King's Bench. His son, also named John, was the founder of the well-endowed Alms- houses at Etwall, and the Grammar School at Repton. He is buried in Etwall Ch., which contains a fine altar-tomb for himself, his two wives and five children : there is also the tomb of his grandfather and grand- mother (1512), the female effigy from which is engraved in Fairholt'a ' Costume.' Etwall Hall (Mrs. Rowland H. Cotton,) is a 17th-centy. mansion of brick, faced with stone taken from the ruins of Tutbury Castle ; some portions are much earlier. It con- tains several family portraits, to- gether with the identical suits of clothing which those members wore B 2 Route 1. — Derhy. when they sat for their portraits. There is a fine Queen Anne garden. Dalbury Ch., 1^ m. to the N., has some stained glass with tlie arms of Sir John Porte and Sir Samuel Sleigh. 3 m. to the N.E. of Etwall is Kadbourne Ch., which has an ancient font, brought from Dale Abbey. The Hall is the property of K. W. Chandos Pole, Esq., the repre- sentative of the ancient families of De la Pole and Chandos. Sir John Chandos of Radbourne distinguished himself greatly'in Edward III.'s war with France, and liis brave deeds are chronicled by Froissart. Lelaud says, " The old house of Eadbourne is no great thing, but the last Chaudois began in the same lord- sliippe a mighty large house of stone, with a wonderfull coste." 5 J m. A line branches off to Trent Junction. A little to the N. is the village of Findern, The manor for- merly belonged to the Abbots of Burton, who often held their courts in the village, when their tenants were troublesome, as mentioned in the recently-discovered Burton Chartulary. Much of the property was held imder them by the Fyn- dernes, a family now extinct. There are no remains of their residence, but some faint traces of a terraced garden may be noticed in a field, in which formerly " garden flowers grew wild," to which a legend was attached, terming them " Fyndern's flowers, brought by Sir Geoffrey from the Holy Land." The popular belief was, that they would " never The Eoman Catholic Ch. of St. Mary (to which a convent is attached), in Bridge Gate, opposite St. Alk- mund's, was built by A. W. Pugin, and enlarged by his son. It has some beautiful decorations in the interior, but fails as a whole. St. Andrew's is a fine modem Dec. Ch. by Sc(At, built mainly at the cost of the shareholders of the Mid- ' land Pily. The breadth of the clere- . story, nave, and apsidal chancel, Boiite 1. — Derhy : Library. gives it a striking aud minster-like character. St. Luke's rii., of highly orna- mental character, was erected in 1870 as a memorial to Bp. Lonsdale. The little bridge chapel, known as " St. Mary of the Brigg," is one of the oldest relics in the town. In Babiiigton Lane, where was formerly tlie town residence of the family of that name, was a liouse, now pulled down, in which Mary Queen of Scots slept on her way from Wingfield to Tutbury. Exeter House, in Full Street, where Prince Chas. Edward lodged in 1745, has also been demolished ; but the oak panelling of a room that served as the council chamber has been pre- served, and now lines the walls of an apartment in the Free Library (jiost). The sect of Quakers established a meeting-house in Derby at a very early period, and, according to George Fox, were first called Quakers here (1650) by Justice Bennett, " because I bid him quake at the Word of the Lord." Windmin Pit, to the S.W. of the town, was the scene of the burning of Joan Waste, a widow, one of tlie Marian martyrs, in 1556. The old mill in Silk Mill Lane, is that in which John Lombe in 1717, and afterwards his cousin Sir Thomas Lombe, established the machinery for spinning or " throw- ing " silk, previously unknown in England ; the former obtained it by visiting Piedmont in disguise, and bribing the workmen, some of whom he brought back with him. He died, however, soon afterwards, poisoned, it is said, by an Italian woman employed by the manu- facturers whose secret he had ob- tained. Lombe certainly introduced the manufacture into England, and here on a swampy island in the Derwent the first silk-mill was built, at an expense of 30,000Z. Hutton, the local historian, worked in this mill when a boy, and relates in con- sequence of his small size he was obliged to wear a kind of stilt, to be on a level with his work. There are now numerous other silk-mills. In 1773 Arkwright first set up a calico-mill in the town, and the Koyal Derby Crown Porcelain "Works, established about 1750, is in the Osmaston Eoad. Derby contains also paper-mills, some h ad-works, a shot-tower, and several iron and machine works. A Philosophical Society, one of the earliest provincial institutions of the land, was established at Derby in 1772 by Dr. Darwin, and at first held its meetings in his house. Tlie Society gradually formed a Library and Museum (in the Wardwick), where they collected many Roman remains from Derventio (Little Ches- ter) and elsewhere. Tiie whole, with many subsequent additions, including a large collection of books, given by the Duke of Devon- shire, is now comprised in the Free Public Library. One of the rooms is lined with the oak panelling from Exeter House (ante), and contains several Stuart relics. Among them notice a letter from the Young Cheva- lier to his father, dated " Eilinburgh, Oct. 22, 1745," just before com- mencing his march to England. It was given by H.M. the Queen. The present of this letter, as well as the fitting up of the room, re- sulted from tlie publication of "A Visit at Derby in 1839," in Lord Stanhope's ' Miscellanies ' already referred to. The Free Library and Museum, in the Wardwick, a red-brick Gothic building, was the gift of the late Mr. M. T. Bass, M.P. It was erected in 1879. The Art Gallery adjoining, also presented to the town by IMr. Bass, was added in 1883. Among the pictures are two admirable works by the native artist, Wright of Derby, "The Orrery," and "The Alche- mist." Boute 1. — Derby : Excursion. The School, founded in the 12th centy. by Walter Durdent, Bishop of Lichfield, and endowed by Queen Mary with a part of the possessions of Darley Abbey, was long held in the centre of the town, but was in 1862 removed to St. Helen's House, a fine mansion formerly belonging to the Strutt family. It was considerably enlarged in 1875. Bishop Juxon and Flam steed the astronomer were among its pupils. In the centre of the market- place is a bronze statue of the late Mr. M. T. Bass, M.P., who died in 1884, by the late Sir J. E. Boehm, Bart., K.A. The Town-hall, on the S. side of the market-place, is a hand- some building. It contains portraits of the great benefactors to the town, namely, Mr. Joseph Strutt, Duke of Devonshire, and Mr. Bass. There are also preserved in it some in- teresting documents and MSS. of early date, and an old measure of the time of Elizabeth, dated 1601. The School of Art is a spacious building on Green Hill. It was transferred to the Corporation in 1891 under the Technical Instruc- tion Act, and the premises con- siderably enlarged. The Grand Theatre was erected in 1886. Two months after the opening it was burnt, but was rebuilt and opened again in the same year. A little to the S. of the town, on the Osmaston road, is the free i^ublic garden, called the Arhoretmn, once the property of the late Joseph Strutt (kinsman of Lord Belper), who, having caused it to be laid out as a pleasure-ground, and jjlanted with more than 1000 varieties of trees, presented it to his fellow- townsmen in 1810 for their " common pleasures, To walk abroad and recreate themselves." The value of the land and the sum expended on it is estimated at 10,000/. At the entrance is a statue of the munificent donor. The visitor will notice the "Headless Cross," 4 steps crowned by a stone in the centre. In a hollow of which, filled with vinegar, the money was placed during the plague of 1665, so that a tratfic in provisions could be maintained between the townsfolk and the country peoijle who feared infection. There is also a public recreation-ground on the Holmes, and bounded by the Derwent, another gift of the late Mr. Bass, M.P., to the town. The racecourse is on the Nottingham road, where the cricket matches also take place. Among eminent natives may be mentioned Samuel Kichardson, the novelist ; Joseph Wright, the painter ; Hutton, the historian ; and Fox, the machinist. A pleasant Excursion may be made from Derby to Kedleston Hall (Lord Scarsdale). The distance is 4 m. on the Kedleston road. The Park of 600 acres is pleas- ingly diversified in surface, enlivened with deer, and ornamented with old trees and a large sheet of water. The groves of oaks are remarkable for age and size. There is also a sulphiu'-spring, formerly held in great repute. The house (no longer shown to visitors) is of classical architecture, built by Robert Adam in 1765, consisting of a centre and two wings connected with the main building by corridors. The principal front is 360 ft. in length, and has a portico with columns 30 ft. high. On the garden front is the hospitable inscription "Amicis et sibi." The entrance hall, 67 ft. high, reaching to the roof of the building, is sup- ported by 20 Corinthian columns of yellowish alabaster from Elvaston ; and for grandeur of dimensions and sj^lendour of its decoration is sur- jiassed by few halls in England. It did not, however, please Dr. Johnson, who, according to Boswell, pronounced it " costly but ill-con- Boute 1. — Kedleston Hall. trived. Behind the hall is a circular saloon, useless, and therefore ill- contrived; the grandeur was all below. The bed-chambers were small, low, dark, and fitter for a prison than a house of splendour. The kitchen has an opening into tlie gallery, by which its heat and fumes are dispersed over the house. There seems in the whole more cost than judgment.' — Boswell's Life of Johnson. The collection of works of art con- tains many paintings, includini;- — Guido Reni.— Bacchus and Ariadne. " Very pleasing in the characters and the bright cheerful etfect, and carefully painted in a soft warm tone." — Waugcn. Lnca Giordano. — The Triumph of Bacchus. Annibale Carraeci. — Orlando delivering Olympia from the sea monster by fixing an anchor in his jaw,s. "The subject is well suited to the vigorous turn of mind of the master." Also Mary Magdalene iu the Desert ; a pretty little cabinet picture. Ciiyp. — A large mountain-land- scape. " The tone of the distance too dull and reddish." Jo^se de Moinper. — A rich mountain-landscape with the story of Naaman. " Perhaps the highest work of the master, for with strange, fantastic, and singularly -formt'd wooded mouutains and parts ilhi- mined by the sun, which constitute the principal claim of his pictures, it combines an extraordinary size and a far more graceful execution than is usual. The figures of men and animals happily put hi by Velvet Breughel." Claude de Lorniin. — Tlie Tower on the Tiber, with a mill iu a warm evening light. "A picture of fine effect of his later period. The gene- ral tone of the green pale, and tlie treatment broader than in his early works." Guido Reni. — A Sleeping Cupid. Remhrandt van Riju (attributed to). — Daniel interjn-eting Nebuchad- nezzar's dream; a composition of 11 figures ; most j^robably by Solomon de Koninek. "Iu size, powerful colouring, effect, and admirsiljle exe- cution, the most important work I have seen of this able follower of Rembrandt." Barend van Orley. — A Holy Family with St. Elizabeth. "The delicacy and elevation of the cha- racters, the admirable, tenderly- fused execution, render this picture one of the finest I am acquainted with by this eminent master ; as is mostly the case with him, the tone is reddish in the lights and grey in the shadows." Raphael. — Death of the Virgin, " a small pictui-e hi his early man- ner." Nicolas Poussin. — Eiualdo holding his Shield to Amida as a mh'ror ; an early work. Niccolo dell' Ahbate. — The Virgin aud Child. St. John, and St. Joseph. " The infiueuce of Correggio is very manifest in this picture of this rare master, which is painted iu a warm browuish tone." Jan Steen. — A Blind Beggar ; a clear, well-executed little pictiu-e. There are two other pictures by this master. Portraits, by Lely, of James Duke of Ormonde, of Henry Jermyn Earl of St. Albans (the supposed hus- band of Henrietta Maria), of the Duchess of Portsmouth, and of the Duchess of York. Thirty-six Limousin enamels, copied from Albert Diu'er's designs, of the Passion of Our Lord, decorate a wardrobe. Adriai'ii van Utrecht. — Turkeys and other jwultry ; very masterly. Jan Fyt. — Dogs and game. " Strikingly true to natau'C, and painted in his own peculiar broad rich manner, and iu a deep fidl tone." 10 Boute 2. — Derby to Melbourne. Sir Godfrey Kneller. — Catheriue, Countess of Dorchester, mistress of James II. Her father, Sir Chas. Sedley, though liimself a man of most profligate cliaracter, resented her elevation to the peerage, and was one of the first to join the Prince of Orange on his landing, saying, in a bitter jest, "that as James had made his daughter a countess, the least return he could make was to assist in making James's daughter (Mary) a queen." Van Dycli(?).—8iv Paul Rycaut, the historian of the Turks. Janssens. — Prince Henry, eldest son of James I., 1603. " Very pleasing by truth of conception, delicacy of execution, clearness and brightness of tone." Jan Matsys. — The Virgin kissing the Child ; very carefully finished, not without grace. This picture is probably by Jan Matsys, the unequal son of Quentin. Snyders. — Dead game, a swan, peacock, and deer. " The light colours brilliant and powerful ; the execution very careful." Ducks pursued by a hawk ; " masterly and dramatic." In the private apartments occupy- ing the E. wing of the house are also many good paintings : — Carlo Dolci. — A Female Saint (Ursula or Christina) with Sn arrow through her neck. " Of a degree of beauty in form and expression, of a clearness in the colouring, and a delicacy of finish, ^Yhich are not often found united in his works." II Bassano. — A Nativity. Domenichino. — A Landscape. "A very beautiful composition, but more motley in the colouring, and more scattered than usual." Guercino. — The Jews celebrating the Triumph of David over Goliath ; of very powerful effect. Wiiiion. — Landscape ; a wood with beams of light of remarkable warmth and clearness. The kitchen is a spacious apart- ment, crossed by a gallery, and bear- ing over the chimney the appro- priate motto " Waste not, want not." Kedleston Ch. (restd. 1884-5 by Lord Scarsdale) is of various periods, but retains a Norm. S. door, over which is a small sculpture. In the chancel are several monuments of the Curzons, one of them by Bys- hrach. The return to Derby may be agreeably varied by proceeding to any one of the stations on the Wirksworth Ely. (Rte. 4), the coun- try being very pleasant. Duflield, the nearest, is little more than 2 m. distant. The other stats, are — Hazlewood, 3^ m. ; Shottle, 5 m. ; Idridgehay, 7 m.; and Wirksworth, 10 m. ROUTE 2. DERBY TO TRENT JUNCTION, BY MELBOURNE AND CASTLE DON" INGTON. MIDLAND RAILWAY. 12 m. The first 2 m. of this route are travelled on the West branch of the line, as far as Normanton (Kte. 1), then the line turns oft" S.E. and reaches at 4J m. Chellaston (Stat.), a place noted for its quarries of gyj^sum or plaster of Paris, which employ a con- siderable population, and where the geologist will find an interesting variety of Foraminifera (Inti'od., p. [5].) A short distance to the W, at Swarkestone, the Trent is crossed by a singular bridge, the approaches across the alluvial flats being up- wards of I m. in length. Tlie date is about the close of the 12th centy., and it is traditionally said to be the work of two maiden sisters, who were brought to poverty through Moute 2. — Blelhonrne. 11 their benevolence. The advanced guard of the Highlanders held the bridge in Dec. 1745. The Ch., re- stored in 1875, is partly Norm., and is worth a visit. It contains monn- mental effigies in alabaster of Richard Harpur, Oiiief Justice of the Com- mon Pleas (d. 1577), and his wife ; also of his son, Sir John Harpur, and his wife. [1 m. beyond Chellaston a line branches oflf S. to Ashby-de-la-Zouch, and connects Derbyshire with the collieries of that district and War- wickshire. The tourist may well avail himself of it to visit the plea- sant little town of Melbourne and its picturesque neighboiu'hood. 65 m. On W. 1 m. is Stanton-by- Bridge, the Ch., restored 18G5, con- tains several 16th-centy, monuments for the families of Sacheverell and Francis. It has a Saxon chancel arch. 7 m. King's Newton, a township of Melbourne. Near the river stood King's Newton Hall, a Jacobean building, accidently destroyed by fire in 1859. Charles I. stayed there, and is said to have written on a pane of glass the anagram on Carolus Rex, " Cras Ero Lux." At the be- ginning of the 18th ceuty. the Har- dinges, who possessed King's New- ton, sold their ancient Hall to the Cokes of Melbourne. In the village are the steps of an old cross, and a Holy Well, on the arch of which is a Latin inscription to the eiiect that it was erected by Robert Har- diiige in IGGO. King's Newton is noted for having been at various times the residence of local literati. 8 m. $ Melbourne (Stat.), a thriv- ing town which has a trade in silk and thread goods, and much of the surrounding land cultivated as market gardens. The C7t., dedicated to St. Miclmel, was restored in 1802 by Sir Gilbert Scott; it is a fine specimen of late Norm, architecture, consisting of nave, chancel, and aisles, which are separated from the nave by a series of circular-headed arches, ornamented with chevrons, and supported by round piers. From the centre rises a massive tower, Norm, below with a Perp. upper story, and there are two smaller ones at the W. end. Notice the W. door, which has some good Norm, mouldings. The chancel had at one time a semicircular apse, and there were also apses at the E. end of the N. and S. transepts, but these were removed before the Reformation. During the progress of the restora- tion several singular wall-paintings were discovered, the subject of one of which seemed to corroborate the tradition of the murder of Ethelred's queen by her Mercian nobles. In- deed, the erection of the original Ch. in the 7th centy. is ascribed to Etheked in token of his grief. In the interior is a monumental slab with effigies of Henry and Elizabeth Hardinge, the ancient owners of the estate of King's Newton, who settled here in 1400. Lord Hardinge, of Italian celebrity, was descended from this family. At Melbourne John, Duke of Bourbon, taken prisoner at A gin- court, was imprisoned 19 years ; and here the Bishops of Carlisle I had a palace, slight remains of I which still exist. Adjoining the village is Melbourne Hall, formerly the seat of Lord Mel- bourne (from whom it came to his sister, the late Lady Palmerston, and from her to Earl Cowper, the j present owner), and now tenanted by W, D. Fane, Esq. The gardens are in the Dutch fashion, and oc- cupy about 10 acres; admission can be obtained on Wednesdays after 2 o'clock, on application to the gar- dener. At the old Melbourne Hall Baxter wrote his ' Saint's Everlasting Rest.' 12 Boute 2. — Knowl Hills. 2 m. W. 13 Knowl Hills, a very picturesque spot, where a mansion of the Burdetts is said to have existed. The only traces of such habitation now are in the series of terraces built upon arches, exca- vated in the new red sandstone, and thought to be cellars. In the plan- tation, called " The Ferns," is a very singular collection of mounds, about 50 in number, which was examined by Mr. Bateinan, and calcined bones were found ia every one that he opened. " The origin of this tumular cemetery is enveloped in obscm-ity ; the absence of pottery and weapons atibrding no clue to the age or people to which the sepulchres should be attributed. They seem to be connected with the eventful period in which tradition affirms the place to have been the scene of a sanguinary conflict between the Saxons and their Danish enemies, of whose successful forays in the Vale of Trent we have evidence in the name of the adjacent village of Ingleby, as well as in that of the still nearer domain of Foremark." The Ely. continues to Tonge (Stat.), a hamlet of Breedon, and to Worthington (Stat.). From the former, Breedon Bulwarks, Staunton Harold, and Calke Abbey, may be visited ; the distance to Melbourne, for return by rail, beiug about 10 miles. At the earthworks, called the Bul- warks, the geologist will notice blocks of millstone grit built in, which are foreign to the district, and were probably brought by the glacial drift from the grit moors to the N. The Ch. at Breedon (dedi- cated to St. Mary and St. Ilardulph) is situated very picturesquely on a rocky eminence, consisting of an isolated mass of mountain limestone, yielding many good fossils, and supplying a large quantity of lime to the iieighbuuring districts. A priory once flourished here, but there are no traces of it now left. In the N. aisle of the Ch., called the " Ferrer's Aisle," and shut off by iron railings, are some fine early monuments of the Shirleys, and a curious oak pew, shut in at the top and sides, so as to separate the in- mates from the rest of the congre- gation. The aisle was purchased at the Dissolution by a Shirley for 1001., who reserved it for himself and descendants for ever. 2§ m. S.W. of Breedon is Staunton Harold, the seat of Earl Ferrers, which contains a family portrait by Van der Werf, and a beautifully painted ceiling in the ball-room. TheN.E. front was designed by Inigo Jones. The visitor should notice the old gates which belonged to a former building, and which are particularly graceful. The Ch. is remarkable as being one of the very few built in the days of the Common- wealth. It was founded in 1653, by Su- Kobert Shirley, a stout Cavalier, " whose singular praise it was to have done the best things in the worst of times, and to have hoped them in the most calamitous." This inscription is on the tower of the Ch., the interior of which is worth see- ing. It consists of a nave, aisles, and a chancel, separated by wrought- iron gates. Notice the carved panelling, the painted ceiling, and the military relics of various mem- bers of the Ferrers family. U m. N.W. is Calke Abbey (Sir V. Harpur Crewe, Bart.), a quadrangu- lar building of Ionic character. The interior contains a state bed, pre- sented by Caroline, George II.'s queen, to Lady Manners, one of her maids of honour, who married into the Harpur-Crewe family. There are also some good family portraits, including Sir George and Lady Crewe, by Ileincujle ; Earl and Countess of Huntingdon, Duke and Duchess of liutlaud, and others. Boufe 3. — Trent Junction to Chest erf eld. 13 The Abbey was originally an ap- panage of Burton Aljl)ey, to which it was granted by an Earl of Mercia. If m. W. of Calke is the village of Ticknall, or Tickenhall, the Ch. of which (rebuilt in 18i2) has a con- spicuous spire. It contains two in- teresting monuments, one a stone cifigy in a civilian's dress (1325), with his head hooded, holding a licart in his hands, and his feet rest- ing on a dog ; the other, an incised slab of a knight in armour ; both are memorials of the Frances family. From Worthington the Ely. con- tinues to Ashby-de-la-Zouch (see Ete. 23).] Eeturniug to the main line at 7i m. is Weston-on-Trent (Stat.), where the large and handsome Ch., restored in 1877, has a lofty em- battled tower and spire. There is also a curious Jacobean monument to the memory of a prebendary of Lincoln and his niimerous family. The line soon after crosses the Trent, and reaches at 10 J m. Castle Donington (Stat.). The town is a long straggling place, built on a steep sandstone hill, and containing at the N. the remains of an ancient castle, said to have been founded by John of Gaunt ; also a fine Ch., with several monuments of the family of Hastings. On the restoration of the Ch. in 1877 a liagioseope was discovered. 1 m. W. is Donington Park (Lord Don- ington), formerly tlie scat of tlie IMarcjuis of Hastings. Tlie mansion, which has a fine library, was erected from designs by Sir J. Wijatrille, and has a portico surmounted by a lantern-tower ; a deer park of H;")!) acres, with some fine oaks, surrounds tlie house. Moore wrote some of hia Irish melodies here. During the French Eevolution the house afforded a refuge for Charles X. and other emigrants, it being placed at their disposal by the first Marquis. 12 m. Trent Junction Stat. Here the Midland lines running from E. and W. (from Newark on the one hand, and from Burton-on-Trent on the othor) unite, and are continued S. through Leicester, Market Har- borough, and Bedford, to Loudon. A large educational establishment, Trent College, is seen almost adjoining the Stat., but the nearest villages, Long Eaton (N.) and Sawlev (W.), are both about 1 m. off. (See Ete. 10.) ROUTE 3. TRENT JUNCTION TO CHESTER- FIELD, BY ILKESTON, ALFRE- TON, AND CLAY CROSS. EREWASH VALLEY BRANCH, MIDLAND RAILWAY. 27 m. The line runs up the entire course of tlie valley of the river Erewash, which rises in the high ground to the S. of Mansfield. It accommodates a large and important coal district, and is the most direct route between Leicester and the North. Its course is very nearly the same as that of the Erewash Canal as far as Codnor Park; and, as the line frequently crosses the river, it is alternately in Derby and in Notts. 3 m. Long Eaton (Stat.). This is little more than a continuation of the Junction, the space between being occupied mainly with sidings, coal depiits, a carriage-wheel factory, and the dwellings of the workmen. After crossing the main road be- tween Derby and Nottingham, at 14 Boute 3, — Sandiacre — Langley Mill. 2f m. is Sandiacre (Stat.)- The village (properly San Diacre) has a Dec. Ch., well restored. The chan- cel, which is considerably longer than the nave, has a particularly beautiful E. window and a Norm, chancel arch. The visitor should notice the figure-heads of the doors and win- dows, together with the crockets and tiuials of the pinnacles, which seem to be carved after the model of the water-lily, a plant abundant in the Erewash. 1 m. W. is Kisley Hall (F. W. Parsons, Esq.), which occupies the site of an Elizabethan mansion of the Willoughbys. Some remains exist of tlie terraced garden of the old Hall. 1 m. N.E. of Sandiacre is Stapleford, in Notts. The Ch. contains a monu- ment to the only son of Admiral Sir John Borlase Warren, who was killed at the battle of Alexandria. At the turning of the lane to the church- yard is the shaft of a cross orna- mented with rude interlaced work, probably of the 9th centy. Staple- ford Hall (Lt.-Col. C. I. Wright) is a large mansion. A rugged pin- nacle of rock, springing from the shoulder of Stapleford Hill, called the Hemlock Stone, 31 i't. high, once passed for a jjagan relic. It is in reality a decided needle of Lower Kcupcn sandstone. On the high ground behind Stapleford, E., is the village of Bramcote, with a restored Ch. 3| m. Stanton Gate (Stat.). Near here are the vast ironworks of the Stanton Iron Co. Stanton-by-Dale Ch. (2 m. S.) has some painted win- dows, a good altar-piece, and monu- ments. Dale Abbey (Rte. 10) is 1| m. W. 5 m. Trowell (Stat.). Here is a branch line to Nottingham. 6J m. $ Ilkeston (Stat.) is on a short branch from Ilkeston Junction on the main line (also a Stat. G. N. Rly., with branch line to Heanor). It is an ancient market town, with some lace and hosiery factories, but is mainly dependant on the neigh- bouring collieries. It stands on a hill, commanding extensive views, and the Ch. of St. Mary, with its lofty pinnacled tower, is a very conspicuous object ; the interior is handsome, having a painted window, a Dec. screen, and a chantry chapel. There were mineral springs and baths here, in high repute through- out the district, and particularly serviceable in rheumatic and scrofu- lous cases, but they are now closed. A charter of incorporation was granted to the town in 1887. 8J m. SMpley-Gate (Stat.) serves the collieries in the neighbourhood, which are very extensive. Shipley Hall (A. E. M. Mundy, Esq.) stands on an eminence in finely kept grounds. 9| m. Langley Mill (Stat.). Very near, on W., is the Ch. of Heanor (Stat. G. N. Ely. It is also con- nected with Ripley and Butterley by a branch of the Midland Rly.), a fine E. E. restored edifice, consist- ing of a nave, chancel, S. aisle, and tower, ri,sing from the W. end. In the interior are monuments to the family of Mundy of Shipley, and one, with rather an Hibernian in- scription, to Watson, the Derbyshire artist, who assisted Gibbons at Chatsworth. \ "Watson has gone, whose skilful art dis- played. To the very life, whatever nature made : View but his wondrous worlds in Chats- worth Hall, >Vhich arc so gazed at and admired by all; You'll say 'tis pity he should hidden be, And nothing said to revive his memory. ]\Iy mournful friends, forbear your tears, For I shall rise when Christ appears." Heanor Hall is the property of A. E. M. Mundy, Esq. Boute 3. — Codnor Park — Alfreton. 15 1 m. E. (in Notts) is Eastwood (Stat. G. N. Ely.), 'i busy colliery village, with mechanics' institute, &c., to the establishmeut of which the late Lord Palmeston contributed, he having had property in the neigh- bourliood. The Ch., which replaced a very old structure in 1858, is a handsome building. 12| m, Codnor Park (Stat., also Stat, on G. N. Kly.). The ironworks here stand in what was once the park of Codnor, an ancient seat of the family of Zouche, to whom it came through the Lords Grey of Groby. Tlie ruins of their castle overlook tlie vale of the Erewash, and consist of some of the round towers of the courtyard, and a few walls, with windows and doorways of the 13th centy. There is also a remarkable old dovecote, the walls of which are of great thickness. The castle was formerly moated, and there is also a large pond, believed never to fail, which gave rise to an old local saying— " When Codenor's pond runs dry. The lordes may say good-bye."j The fulfilment of this prophecy would have less efiect on its present owners, the Butterley Iron Co. (see Ete. 4, Eipley), than on the ancient residents, as they have the much larger Butterley reservoir at hand. The town which has grown up about their works is known as Ironville, where a Ch. has been built by the Company for the inhabitants, most of whom being in their employ. A hill rises behind the park, which the visitor should ascend. It is laid out in walks, and has a lofty column, erected to the memory of the late Mr. Jessop, one of the lords of the manor. It was struck by light- ning in 1884. From this spot is ob- tained a curiovis view over the busy iron district. Butterley Hall (11. L. Wright, Esq.) was the birthplace of Sir Jas. Outrum of Indian cele- brity, whose father was an engineer here, 13J m. Pye-bridge Junct. Stat. [Hence a liue branches oil" W. to Auibergate, with a Stat, at Butter- ley; and another branch of 5? m. runs E. to Ku'kby, where it joins the Nottingham and Mansfield line (Ete. 13), with a Stat, at Pinxton and Selston, both colliery viUages, near the former is Brookhill Hall (W. S. Coke, Esq.).] i m. W. of the Stat, is Eiddings, a colliery village, with a handsome E. E. Ch., built in 1832. [The Great Northern Ely. from Nottingham has a liue branching from Kimberley to Pinxton, running parallel with this portion of the Midland Elj'., and having stations at Newthorpe and Greasley, Eastwood, Codnor Park, Pye Hill.] 16 m. $ Alfreton (Stat.). The town, traditionally said to have been founded by Alfred, is pleasantly situated on the brow of a hill. It belonged, at the making of the Domesday Survey, to Eoger do Busli, the lord of Tickhill (Ete. 18), and afterwards to Fitzranulf, the founder of Beauchief Abbey. The Ch., which is mainly Dec, stands on rather high ground. It consists of a nave with aisles and clerestory, chancel with a good Perp. 5-light window, and a battle- mented tower of 3 stages at the W. end. The bays of the nave are formed by pointed arches with circular piers. Notice the heads that form the termination of the moulding of the arch over the S. porch, and also of the windows. In tlie interior are monuments of the family of Morcwood, and a brass genealogical tablet to John Orniond and his wife, daughter of Sir Wil- liam Chaworlli, 1507. Adjoining the town is Alfreton Park», the seat of C. E. Palmer-Morewood, Esq. ; the house coulaius some good pic- 16 Boute 4. — Derby to Sheffield, tures, and commands beautiful views over Normanton and Shirland. The grounds are celebrated for their fine timber. 17^ m. Westhouses (Stat.). Here the Alfreton and Mansfield line branches oft' E. and has Stats, at Tibshelf, Woodend, Teversall, Pleasley, and Mansfield Woodhouse (see Ete. 13). In the Ch.-yd. at Blackwell (| m.) are the remains of a Eunic cross and a remarkable yew-tree. 18i m. Doe Hill (Stat.), a colliery village. Hardwick Hall lies about 5 m. N.B., but the way to it from Mansfield is much to be preferred (Ete. 13). 23 m. Clay Cross Junct. Stat. The line here joins the Derby and Sheffield line (Ete. 4). 27 m. Chesterfield (Stat.) (Ete. 4). EOUTE 4. DERBY TO SHEFFIELD, BY BELPER AND CHESTERFIELD. MIDLAND RAILWAY. 37^ m. The Ely., on emerging from Derby Stat., and passing Nottingham Eoad Stat., crosses the canal, whence a good view is obtained of the town, with the tall and graceful towers and spires of All Saints and St. Alkmund's on W. From tlie banks of the Derwent, between which and the line is Little Chester (the an- cient Derventio), rise low hills clothed to the top with hanging woods and verdant lawns, forming a charming foreground. At 1 m,, on the W., is Darley Abbey, with its modernised Abbey (Walter Evans, Esq.), occupying the site of an Augustinian Friary, founded temp. Hen. I. by Eobert Ferrars, afterwards Earl of Derby. The Ch. peeps prettily out from the woods. There is a large cotton- mill here belonging to the family of Evans. At 2 m, is AUestree Hall, the seat of Sir T. W. Evans, Bart. AUestree Ch. has a good Norm, doorway and moulding; in the interior are monuments to the Mundys. From the opposite side of the line rises the spire of Breadsall Ch. (Stat. G. N. Ely.), near which, at the Priory, resided Dr. Darwin, " physician, poet, and philosopher " (d. 1802), whose monument is in the Ch. Breadsall Lodge was the residence of Lady Darwin, the relict of his kinsman, Sir F. S. Darwin, The Ch. was restored in 1877, when a beautifully carved Pieta was found beneath the pavement of the chan- cel. It has been restored to its original position in the N. aisle. [At 3 m. a Branch Ely. goes E. to Eipley. The first stat. is at Little Eaton (3J m. from Derby), where are some paper-mills and stone quarries. 2 m. E. is Morley, with a fine Perp. Ch., having a lofty spire, and containing some stained glass, brought from Dale Abbey (Ete. 10). There are several 15th-centj'. hr asses for the Stathams, and one for John Sacheverell, killed at Bosworth ; 17th-centy. monumental effigies of Hyacinth and Elizabeth Sacheverell; and in the chancel a curious inscription, giving a list of the prayers ordained by John Stut- ham (d. 1453) to bo said for the souls of himself and family. 5 m. Coxbench (Stat.) proper is in the parish of Holbrooke, and the old name for that part of Coxbench, which is now in the parish of Horsley, was, according to the registers, called " Tantin's" or "St. Boufe 4.~Kilhurn—Dvfir'hl. 17 Anthony's Cross." Holhroolce Hall was the residence of the Rev. W. Lceke, who earned the colours of the r)2nd Foot at Waterloo, and who publitihed several works, claiming the honour of the decisive charge on that day for his regiment. At Horsley, 1 m. N. of the stat., are some slight remains of a castle built in the 13th centy. and called Horistan Castle. It is mentioned by Bryon in ' On leaving Newstead Abbey '— " Near Askalon's towers John of Horistan slumbers." The at. is a fine E. E. edifice, well restored ; one of the very sin- gular gurgoyles and fine| spire are engraved in Parker's ' Gloss. Archi- tecture.' 7 m. Kilburn (Stat), a colliery village. Kilburn Hall (Col. C. D. Pedder) has in its garden several ancient yew-trees cut so as to repre- sent birds. li m. Denby (Stat.), with col- lieries and pottery works. The Icknield Street here crosses the rly. The E. E. Ch. of St. Mary the Virgin has a remarkable and costly monument to Patrick Lowe and his wife. Flamsteed the astronomer (b. 1646, d. 1719) was a native of this parish. 9J m. $ Ripley (Stat.). This was a market-town in the time of Henry III., but fell into decay, from whicJi it was raised about the beginning of the present century by the opening of numerous collieries in its neigh- brjurhood, to which the Butterlcy ironworks have since been added. It is now a flourishing town, and has many good liouses; tlicre iuv. also extensive schools, &c., tlie ButterU y Company contributing handsomely to their supi)nrt. Codnor Park (Stat.), on llie Ere- {^Dtrby, etc.] wash Valley line, is 2J m. E. (Rte. 3).] Crossing the Derwent, and passing Duflield Hall (R. Smith, Esq.), the line reaches 5h m. Duffield (Stat.), a pretty village, on the rt. bank of the river. The Ch., which has a lofty tower and spire, lies between the rly. and river, some little distance before the station is reached. It is marked by features of the debased Perp. s-iyle, and contains a fine monument to Sir Roger Mynors and his lady, 153G, with their recumbent effigies ; around the sides are niches with kneeling figures. There is also a tomb for Anthony Bradshaw, great- uncle of President Bradshaw. Con- cerning Anthony " there is a singular circumstance attending the history of this monument (which was put up by himself in the year 1600, and which gives, beside, the figures of himself and his two wives, the names and figures of their 20 chil- dren), viz., that when he had not very unreasonably concluded he should have no further addition to his olive-branches, he had three more children by the second wife, whose names and figures, conse- quently, do not appear on the monument with their 20 brothers and sisters." An absurd tradition prevails, that this Ch. was com- menced on another spot, but, as fast as the workmen laid the foundations, they were removed by the devil to Avhere the building now stands. Vicissitude Gilfard died here in 1807. The foundations of Duffield Castle, an important strongholil of the Ferrars family, were discovered on Castle Hill iu 1886. [From Duffield a Branch Iihj. runs N.W. to Wirkswortl^, up the valley of tho Ecclesbourn. The stats, are at Hazlewood (7 m.), Shottle (S^ m.), Idiidgehay (10 m.). 18 Boute -i. — Wirlsivorth. and Wirksworth (13J m.), all, ex- cept the last, mere villages, without any especial interest. $ Wirksworth (Stat.) occupies a very beautiful position in the bottom of a deep valley, and, when viewed from the wooded hills around, pre- sents a perfect scene of repose. The t3wn itself, however, which was long the liead-quarters of the Derby- shire lead-mining interest, has nothing but its situation to recom- mend it. The Ch., restored in 1876 by Sir G. G. Scott, is a fine cruci- form building of Perp. date, con- sisting of a nave with side aisles, N. and S. transepts, and a chancel, with a square but rather low tower. There are memorial chapels of the Vernons and BlackAvalls, some brasses of un- certain ascription, and monuments of the family of Gell of Hopton, viz. Anthony Gell, the founder of the school and almshouses (d. 1583), and Sir John Gell, the Parliamentarian ofHcer (d. 1671) ; also of the families of Lowe and Blackwell. Notice, too, in the N. aisle a singular rude antique bas-relief of the principal events in our Saviour's life. There is a cuiious epitaph on the exterior wall (W. end), commemorating the good qualities of one Philip Shall- cross, " once an eminent quill-driver to the attorneys of the town" (d. 1787), as evinced by his aliection for animals. Adjoining the Ch. is the Grammar School, founded in 1576, and rebuilt in 1828. In the Wesleyan Chapel is a tablet erected to the memory of Elizabeth Evans (d. 1849) and to her husband Samuel Evans (d. 1858), both of whom fer- v'jully preached Methodism, and are known to the world by the writings of their niece, George Eliot, under the names of " Dinah " and " Seth Bede." The novelist used to stay with her relatives, who lived at Mill houses just outside the town. The produce of the lead-mints in the neighbourhood of Wirksworth has of late years very much de- creased ; it was at one time the staple trade, for the accommodation of which the Moot-hall was erected by the Duchy of Lancaster in 181-±. Here a Court Leet is held annually, and the Barmote Courts, when re- quired, for the regulation of the trade. These courts are of very great antiquity, " The principal part of the county where lead-ore is foimd in any considerable quantity is called ' The King's Field,' and comprehends nearly all the wapen- take of Wirksworth, and a con- siderable part of the High Peak Headland. The King's Field has been from time immemorial let on lease. The lessees (of whom, when Pilkington wrote his account of Derbyshire in 1789, there were only two) have each in his respective district a steward and barmaster. The steward presides as judjie in the Barmote Courts, and with 24 jurymen, chosen every half-year, determines all disputes which arise respecting the working of the mines. Debts incurred in working the mines are cognizable in these courts, which meet twice a year, or oftener if need be. The office of the bar- master is principally to put miners into the jjossession of veins that they have discovered, and to collect the proportion of ore to ,which the lessee of the crown or the lord of the manor has a claim. When a miner has discovered a new vein of ore in the ' King's Field ' he may acquire a title to the exclusive pos- session of it, provided it be not in a garden, orchard, or high road, by a proper application to the barmaster of the liberty. Should the miner neglect to work the vein, the bar- master may, after a certain time, dispose of it to any one who is willing to buy it." — Knight. Here is preserved the brass dish made in the reign of Henry VIH. to serve as the legal standard measure of lead- ore in this district. The hills all Boufe -i. — Beljyei: 19 around are scattered over with half- ruined huts (here called " coes ") covering the mouths of abandoned mines, and forming a singular and charasteristic feature in the scenery. The veins of lead are found iu forms called in Derbyshire " Rakes," and a curious old poem on the Liberties and Customs of Wii'ksworth is still extant, date 1G53 : — " By custom old in Wirksworth wapentake, If any of tliis nation find a Eake, Or sign or leading to the same, may set In any ground, and there lead-ore may get; They may make crosses, boles, and set their stowes, Sink shafts, build lodges, cottages, or coes." The mines iu this neighbourhood are drained by adits, here called "soughs," driven for a very con- siderable length from the level of the Derwent, through the solid rock. One, called Cromford Sough, ex- tends to that town from Wirksworth, and cost 30,000?. ; it is of less value in relieving the "Wirksworth mines of water, than for turning the cotton- mills at Cromford. The Wirks- worth Meer Sough, E. of the town, drains a large district, and is nearly 3 m. long. The mines of this dis- trict were worked by the Romans, as is shown by the discovery, on Cromford Moor, of a pig of lead inscribed with the name of the Emperor Hadrian, now in the Bri- tish Museum. Bones of a rhinoceros were found in 1882 iu a lead-mine in the neighbourhood. At Wirksworth there is an old custom called " Tap-dressing," and on AVhit-Weduesday the taps and pipes of the water-supply to the town are decorated with flowers. About 2 m. N.W. is Hopton Hall (H.Chaudos Pole Gell, Esq.), the ancient seat of the famous Parlia- mentary leader, Sir John Gell, where are preserved his colours, leather doublet, and some small artillery.] At 6J m. there is a very charming view on E. of the line (previous to rushing into a tunnel) at Milford, where the waters of the river are dammed into lakelets for the use of the cotton-mills belonging to the Strutts, which are connected by an arch thrown across the road. Make- ney House is the residence of G-. H. Strutt, Esq., and Milford House of Hon. F. Strutt. On emerging into light the same pretty view is continued as far as 7Jm. $Belper (Stat.), a long strag- gling town, reaching for a consider- able distance on both sides the Derwent, and extending on the 1. bank to the top of the wooded hill. It owes its present consequence to the cotton-mills established here 1776 by Messrs. Strutt, who have converted it from an inconsiderable village to a market-town second only to Derby in the county. Their mills, which are at the north end of the town, give work to about 1200 per- sons, whose employers have pro- vided for them decent dwellings at a moderate cost. The Derwent is used in working the machinery, and for this purpose is dammed up by a large weir near the bridge. The hosiery-mills of Messrs. Ward and Co., and those of Messrs. Brettle and Co., are nearly the largest in the kingdom. In addition to silk and cotton hosiery, nails used to be made here to a great extent, also pottery, but owing to strikes the nail trade has been reduced to a low ebb ; all these manufactures being due to the coal which is worked in the neighbourhood to the E. The situation of the town, the chief part of which is on the rt. of the rly., is charming. It has two modern churches, one of which — Christ Ch. — has been recently de- corated after designs by ]\Ir. E. H. Corbould, but very little !s seen in passing, for the rly. is carried through Belper in a deep cutting, c 2 20 Route 4. — Amhcrgaic — Wingfield. with massive retaining walls, and crossed by 11 bridges iu the space of little more than a mile. The annals of Belper are associated with the memory of John of Gaunt, who was a great benefactor to the town, and built a chapel, now incorporated with a modern school-house. From the discovery of foundations of a large massive building, it is believed that he had a residence here. On the ascending ground to W. of the town is Bridge Hill, the charm- ing seat of G. H. Strutt, Esq., a member of the family to which Belper owes its pi'osperity, and the merits of which were recognised by a peerage. The country to the W. is full of beautiful scenery, the outskirts of the more romantic districts of central Derbyshire. It is a delightful walk of IJ m. to Depth o' Lunib, a roman- tic glen watered by a small stream. The return may be made by a detour through Hazlewood to Milford, making a ramble of about 6 m. Another pretty walk is to Wirks- worth, 6 m., keeping along the high ground W. of Alderwasley, from whence the pedestrian will obtain wide views over the Nottinghamshire border. On emerging from the rly. cut- tings, and passing the cemetery on E., the valley of the Derwent becomes more contracted, its sides steeper, and all its beauties increased. The serpentine course of the river, which renders it necessary for the rly. to cross it 3 times and to traverse 2 or 3 short tunnels within 2 m. N. of Belper ; the beautiful trees which fringe it, feathering down to the water's edge ; and the lawn-like meadows and luxiu'iant woods on the hill-sides, give this valley the appearance of a park. " 111 famed Attica, such lovely dales Are rarely seen ; nor can fair Tempe boast A charm they know not" — sings a poet of these counties — no less an one than Lord Byron. After crossing the Derwent a 4th time the line quits the neighbourhood of the stream, and reaches at 10^ m. $Ambee,gate Jtinct. Stat. The main line to Manchester here branches off N. through Mat- lock (Ete. 5), and a branch line goes off E. to Pye-Bridge (see Ete. 3). The surrounding country is very beautiful, with the little river Amber flowing W. to join the Derwent, and iu that same direction are the woods of Alderwasley and the bold emi- nence called Crich Hill, on the top of which is a tower called Crich Stand (Ete. 5). The immediate neighbourhood, however, is much disfigured by the long range of lime kilms erected by Geo. Stephenson ; the limestone being brought from the quarries at Crich by an inclined plane. At 11 m., crossing the Cromford Canal, there is a pretty peep on E. at Bucklaud Hollow. 14 m. Wingfield (Stat.). Ou W. is the Ch. of Wingfield, restored in 18S5. 2 m. E. is the town of Alfre- ton (Ete. 3), and 1 m. S.W., extend- ing along a wooded hill, the village of South Wingfield ; at the extreme end of which, most j^ictiiresquely situated on a knoll, and separated by a deeiJ dingle from the adjoining high ground, is Wingfield Manor- house. Wingfield (more correctly spelt Whinfield or Winfield) Manor Iluuse, a picturesque ruin, is a good speci- men of domestic architecture of the latter part of the 15th centy., j^rior to which time it is not easy to find an entire house of any size all of one date of architecture. It con- sists of 2 enclosed courts, the lai'gest of which looking towards the N. was devoted to state and dwelling apartments, while the other was principally used for offices. There are some beautiful details in the N. court, particularly an octagon window, and a gate\Yay whieh com- Boiite 4. — Shirland — Stretton. 21 municatcd with the S. court. The Groat Hull is 72 by 36 ft., and under- neath it i.s a crypt with good piUars and groined roof, the centres of the groins being decorated with armorial bearings. "One-half of the range of building to the right of the en- trance into the N. court seems originally to have been used as a hall, which received light through an octagon window, and through a range of Gothic windows to the S., now broken away, and a correspond- ing range to the N. In the other part of this range are the portal, and the remains of the chapel, and of the gi'eat state apartments, lighted through another rich Gothic wiu- dow." — BJore. The builder of Wingfield was Ealph Lord Cromwell, High Trea- surer to Henry VL (d. 1-155). It deiives its principal interest from having been at different times during 9 years the prison dwelling-house of Mary Queen of Scots under the custody of the Earl of Shrewsbury, hu.sband of "Bess of Hardwick." "Her suite of apartments, it is generally believed, was on the W. side of the N. court, and communi- cating with the great tdwer, from which she could sometimes see the approach of her friends, with whom she carried on a secret correspon- dence, that got many of them into trouble, and often aroused Eliza- beth's jealousy and ire." — Hall. During the Civil war Wingfield was held for the Eoyalists by Col. Dalby, but after a stubboi'n resistance was carried in an attack by Sir John Gell, whereupon the house was ordered to be dismantled. A large portion of the building, however, remained until 1774, when much was pulled down for the sake of the materials ; what was then left is now occupied as a farndiouse. The village of Wingfield is pret- tily situated on a long ridge over- looking the vale of the Amber, and it is a very charming walk of about 3 m. from hence to Crich Stand (Kte. 5), which should be visited for the sake of the wide view that it commands. 16 m. 1 m. E. is the village of Shirland, where are some collieries situated on the western outcrop of the Nottinghamshire coalfield. The Ch. is a good Perp. building, and contains an alabaster monument to the Kevells, a powerful family in this neighbourhood during the IGth cent. Continuing up the valley, the line passes W. Ocjston Hall (W. G. Tur- butt, Esq.), formerly the seat of the Eevells of Shirland. The Turbutt family obtained it by marriage with the sister and coheiress of William Kevell. An old legend states that the arms of the Kevells — a dexter arm grasping a lion's gamb — were obtained through a contest in the Holy Land between Hugh de Itevell and a lioness. The little river Anilier, which bounds Ogston Park, has its rise about 6 m. N.W. in Upper End. It flows through a very picturesque valley, past the village of $ Ashover, and Stubben Edge Hall (J. Jackson, Esq.). The Ch. at Ashover is Perp., witli square tower and spire. It contains a curious stone font with twenty leaden figures, a brass in memory of James Kolleston of Lea (d. 1507), and his wife, the daughter of John Babington of Dethick; and monuments to tiie families of Dakeyn and Babington. On the opposite bank is Overton Hall (W. de Burgh Jessop, Esq.), a former residence of Sir Joseph Banks the naturalist. A little to the K. of tlie village are remains of the old Hall at Eastwood. Ill °i- Stretton (Stat.), a hamlet of North Wingfield, one of the great centres of the coal, ironstone, and limestone trades. The scenery in the neighbourhood abounds in ro- 22 Boiiie 4. — Clay Cross — Chesterfield. mantic clifi's, tlie bases of which are covered -with wood, and the pedes- trian will find it worth his while to qnit the line at Stretton Stat., and explore tlie vale, ascending near Ashover to Darley Moor, and de- scending to Matlock, a v?alk of 7 or 8 m. A long tunnel occnpies a consider- able part of the distance to 20 m. CLAY Cross Junct. Stat. where the line joins the Erewash Valley Ely. (Kte. 3). The Ch. of North Wingfield, a Perp. structure, with a square tower, almost adjoins the stat. A modern Ch., built 1852, mainly for the use of the Clay Cross Company's workmen, is at some distance S., and has adjoining an Institute and Kcading Koom, with schools for their children. The coal- mines here were once leased by Geo. Stephenson. The numerous col- liery appliances, together with the smoke from the furnaces of the Clay Cross Company, leave no doubt in the mind of the traveller tliat he has at length reached the mani;facturing districts of North Derbyshire, which extend from here with but little intermission to the Yorkshire border. The appearance of the country, however, is not so effectually spoilt as in Stafibrdshire and the North, as the colleries and works are a good deal scattered, allowing intervals in which the real beauty of the district is fully seen. Hardwick Hall (Ete. 13) lies 4 m. E., the road crossing a pleasant moorland district, with the Nottinghamshire hills in view. The line now descends the valley of the Eother, and at 22 m, passes on E. Wincjerwortli, Jlall (Hon. Mrs. Hunloke),a hand- some stone building of the time of George I. The estate w;is purchased from the Curzons by Nicholas Hun- loke in Henry VIII.'s reign, and his grandson, while attending as High Sheriff on James I. in his progress through Derbyshire, fell dead at the king's feet, on 17th August, 1623, at a very advanced age. The olrl Hall was garrisoned for the Parliament in 1643. The grounds extend for a considerable distance up the slopes of the hills, command- ing very wide views. 24 m. $ Chesterfield CStat.). It is a town of considerable business, with engineering works, tanneries, and iron foundries, and is in the centre of a large colliery district, but, with the exception of the parish church, it has little to detain the tom-ist. Some antiquaries identify it (or ratlier, the neighbouring hamlet of Tapton) with the Roman station Lutudarum, a kind of emporium, to which the metals from the Peak were brought. It is mentioned in Domesday, as a dependency of New- bold (now one of its townships), and it was given by John to his favourite, "William Briwere, to whom is as- cribed the building of the castle. The town is irregularly built, but has many good houses, and a spacious maiket-place. The Ch. of St. Mary and All Saints replaced, in the 13th ccnty., one that William Eufus gave to the see of Lincoln. It is a very fine cruciform building of Dec. date (1350) in its principal parts, and E. E. and Perp. in others, consisting of nave, aisles, choir, and transepts, from the intersection of which rises a square tower with octagonal pin- nacles surmounted by a lofty timber spire, covered with lead, which is 230 ft. in height, and is re- markable for its crookedness. There seems no good reason for doubting that this spire was erected at or about the time when the tower and principal portions of the Ch. were built (1350-70), and the more probable and now generally ac- cepted reasons for its crookedness are — firstly, the clinging pressure of the lead, which might cause an Boute 4. — Brampton. 23 irregular subsidence of the tiinljrr framework, and secondly, the action of the sun caiii-ing the timbers to warp ; the sun is the most powerful when at or about 2 o'clock p.m., and it is precisely in this direction where the sjiirc leans the most. By care- ful measurements recently made by Messrs. Eollinson & Son, the local architects, the rod of the vane is 7 ft. 11 in. out of the centre of the spire towards tlie B.W., 6 ft. 11 in. to tlie S., and 3 ft. 11 in. to tiie W. The E. (Dec.) window, the W. (Perp.) window, the S. transept (Dec.) window, and two windows in the (Dec.) liaptistry arc very fine examples of modern painted glass. The Oak Screen on the east of the S. transept is a line specimen of (Perp.) carving, and the carving under the E. window, and to the west of the Chapel of the Holy Cross, are well worthy of note. The visitor should notice the timber roof of the nave and the armorial bearings of tlie sovereigns in whose reigns the Ch. was built or added to, and of those in authority in the county who were interested in the restoration in 1843. In the S. transept is an apsidal Dec. cliapel. Tlie extreme length of the church is 170 ft. There are among others some monuments elaborately carved, to the family of Foljambe, of the dates of tlie loth and 16th cents., and a modern font with beautifully sculptured figures of angels. The gem of the Ch., however, in point of design, is the Flamboyant window, N. of the chapel of the Holy Cross, which has been recently restored. The Crannnar School, founded bv Queen Elizabeth, was restored in 1845. 1 m. N. of the town is Tapfon House, at one time the residence of George Stephenson, the " father of Railways," who took great delight in his pineries and greenhouses. In- deed, his death is ascribed to a cold caught by his eagerness to eclipse the pines of Chatsworth, which in- duced him to remain too long in his forcing-houses. He died in 1818 at Tapton Hou.se, and was buried in Trinity District Ch. (J m. from the Stat.) under the altar, where is a stained glass window to his memory, erected by his only son Robert. The Stephenson Memorial Hall, standing near the Parish Ch., was erected in 1879 by public subscrip- tion as a tribute to the great rail- way engineer. The building, which cost about 14,000?., is in the (Jotliic style, and in addition to the large hall contains the Free Library and class rooms for the advancement of science and art. The town is noted for being the birthplace of several local scholars and poets, and among others Pegge the antiquary ; and gives the title of Earl to a branch of the noble family of Stanhope. A new line is in the course of construction by the Lancasiiire, Derbyshire, and East Coast Rail- way Company to connect the east and west coasts. It will go from the Manchester Ship Canal at War- rington through Buxton, Chester- tield, the Dukeries, Tuxford, and Lincoln to Sutton-on-the-Sea. [A plea.saut trip of about 12 m. mav be made W, across the moors to JBakewell (Rte. 6). The way is through Brampton (4 m.), the Ch. of which has a remarkable monument, to Matilda de Cans, who died iu 1224, and was probably the heiress of the Barony, and Baslow. K m. (Rte. 8), where the Derwent is crossed. Before reaching Baslow, notice on N. the Nelson pillar on $East Moor (1010 ft.), from which there is a fine view over Chatsworth Park.] Tlie line after leaving Chester- field diverges, and there are two routes to ShefHeld: (1) by tho Chesterfield and INIasbro' branch (14J m.) and (2) the direct line through Dronfield (12 m.). 24 BouteA. — WluUinrjton — Elmfon. (1) On the Masbro' branch At 26i m. is Whittingtoii(Stat.). The villages of Whittington and New Wliittington lie N. of the stat. The collieries, ironworks, and brick- works render the place a scene of great activity. The Ch. was re- built in 1863. Pegge, the antiquary, was the rector of this parish. He died here, 1796, and was buried in the chancel of the old Ch. In the village is the cottage, known as " Revolution House," formerly an inn with the sign of the Cock and Pynot (local for Magpie), where the ith Earl of Devonshire and other members of the Whig party first met to concert measures for the Revolution of 1688. 28J m. Staveley (Stat.), the seat of vast ironworks, at which upwards of 4000 men are employed. A suburb, called Barrow Hill, is al- most entirely inhabited by the workmen. The parish is of con- siderable extent, embracing the hamlets of Netherthorpe, Wood- tliorpe, and Handler. In conse- quence of the extension of the M. S. & L. Rly. Staveley is likely to become a trade centre of consider- able importance. The ironwork for the Exhibition of 1862 was cast here. The old hall at Staveley, now the rectory, although greatly altered and modernised, is still in existenco. It was formerly the seat of the Freschevilles, one of whom de- fended it against the Parliament, and was in 1664 made Lord Fres- cheville, but his title died with him. The Ch. contains 2 brasses for Peter Frescheville (esquire to Henry VI.) and his family, beside other monuments, and a fine stained glass window jnit up by Lord Fres- cheville in 1676. [A branch line of the Midland Rly. here goes off S.E. to Mansfield (see Rte. 13), with Stats, at Nether- thorpe, Clown (see below), Elraton, Langwith, Shircbrook, and Mans- field Woodhouse. From Nether- thorpe the Doe Lea line branches ofi' S. to Bolsover, Palterton, Row- thorn and Hardwick (see Rte. 13), and Pleasley.] 30i m. Eckington (Stat.). Near to it is Eenishau; the beautiful seat of Sir G. R. Sitwell, Bart., whose hanging woods cover the hills on W. The town of Eckington, about 1 m. to the W. of the stat., is very prettily situated, and contains a Norm. Ch. (restored 1878), with a tower and spire. Of the ancient castle only the site remains, and there is a slight trace of an earth- work, known as the Dane's Balk, to the N. of the town. Spink Hill, 1 m. E. of the rly., is conspicuous for its Roman Catholic college and Ch., with a lofty spire. Eckington is a busy place, with some foundries for making scythes and sickles, and witli collieries in the neighbourhood. The Renshaw Iron Works are close to the stat. [A pleasant excursion may be made Irom Eckington to Worksop (Rte. 15), diverging to the S. for the purpose of visiting Markland Grips. 2 J m. Barlborough, a colliery vil- lage, with a large Perp. Ch. Barl- borough Hall is a fine Jacobean house, built by Sir John De Rodes, and is remarkable for the beautiful avenue of trees by which it is ap- proached. One of the apartments contains a magnificent stone chim- ney-piece, covered with figures and armorial bearings of the Rodes family. At 3| m. rt. is (he village of Clown (Stat.), where the Ch. has Norm, portions. 1 m. S. is Elmton and Creswell (Stat.), the birth and burial-place of Jedediah Buxton, the calculator. At 4^ m. the tourist enters the romantic dell of Marlt- Iitnd Grips, than which, though on a small scale, there is nothing prettier in the county. Follow Boute 4. — WoodJiouse — Norton. the course of the d(!ll to CrcswoU Cmgs, tlirougli wliich a road lends about 1 m. to Welbeck Abbey (see Rte. 15). Then turn N. to WMtwell (Stat.), from -whence to Worksop, skirting the demesne of Worksop Manor, it is a little over 6 m. Whitwell Ch. is a large cruciform building, with Norm, tower. Whit- well Hall, adjoining the village, was the seat of Sir Roger Manners. A little to the 1. of Firbeck Gate, between Wliitwcll and Worksop, in the hamlet of Steetley, is a small but perfect Norm. Ch. The arclies of the chancel and apse are round headed and elaborately moulded ; the stone vaulting and three small windows of the apse are all intact. It was formerly a ruin, but has now been thoroughly restored, and is used as a Chapel of ease to Whit- well. The whole of this excursion from Eckington Stat, to Worksop will be about 13 m.] 35J m. Woodhouse Junction Stat. The Midland line runs N. to Rother- liam (6 m.), but proceeding by the jNIauchester, ShetHeld, and Lincoln- shire Rlv. N.W., and passing Darn- all (Stat"), 40 m. Sheffield (Victoria Stat.) is reached. See Handbook for York- slur e. (2) By the direct line at 25J m. is Sheepbridge (Stat.). 27§ m, TJnston (Stat.) ; and at 29 m. $Dronfield (Stat.). All are in a 1)usy colliery district, and there are several iron-foundries, agricul- tural implement works, and edge- tool factories. Dronfield, once a market-town, stands on the small river Drone, an affluent of the Rother, and has a fine Dec. Ch., with lofty spire, standing on a hill S. of the town. It coniaius a brass (1399) to two priests, brothers, named Gomfrey, and some tomba of the Fanshawes, one of whom founded the Grammar School, temp. Eliz., and was the great grandfather of Sir Richai'd Fanshawe, the well- known ambassador to Spain. Z2l m. Dora and Totley (Stat.). Here a branch line is in progress through the Peak District to (Jhin- ley (see Rte. 8). 33i m. Beauchief Abbey (Stat.). The village is very small, and is only remarkal)le for its Ch., which is a fragment of the ancient abbey (de Bello Capite), founded (1172-1176), by Robert Fitzranulph. The re- mains consist of a noble Trans. Norm, tower, and a portion of the nave, now somewhat modernized and adapted to the Reformed service. There are three beautiful archways of Norm, date, one of which leads into the Ch. 2 m. E. is the village of Norton, where an obelisk of Cheesewring granite, together with a monument in the Cii., have been raised to the memory of Sir Francis Chantrey, R.A., the sculptor, who was born in 17S1, at a house, which has been modernized and spoilt, at Jordans- thorpe,tothe 1. of the village, whence Chantrey, in his early days, used to carry milk to Sheffield. The Ch. also contains some interesting monu- ments to the Blythes, two members of which family were respectively bishops of Lichfield and Sali?bnry (1-193, 1503), and whose old tindjored residence still remains at Nortcm Lees, between Norton and Shetlield. Adjoining the village arc Norton Hall, the beautiful seat of Bernard Cammell, Esq., and the Oaks (F. W. Bagshawe, Esq.). Passing Ecclesall and Heeley (Stats.), both in Yorkshke, at 37A m. is Sheffield (Victoria Stat.). See Ilandhoiik for Yorkshire. 26 Boute 5. — Berhy to Bakeioell. EOUTE 5. DERBY TO BAKEWELL, BY MATLOCK AND ROWSLEY. MIDLAND KAILWAY. 25J m. For description of the country from Derby to Ambergate Junction, lOJ m., see Rte.4. The route heuce to Bake well and Buxton lies through a succession of the finest valleys of Derbysliire, in which the character- istic features of the county are fully displayed. As far as Rowsley the rly. follows the coiirse of tlie Der- wcnt, and from that ])oint to Buxton accompanies the Wye during the whole of its career, from tlie con- fluence to near its source. Quitting the stat., and passing the liraekihis at Ambergate, the line enters a narrow valley, bounded on W. by the hanging woods of Alderwasley Park (A. F. Hurt, Esq.), famous for its oak timber, and on E. by those of Crich Ch;ise. By ascending the hill for a little distance, a sin- gular and impressive view is gained. Alderwasley (locally Arrowslea) was once a part of the ancient park of Belper, and belonged successively to the Ferrars, the Earls of Lan- caster, and the Lowes, a descendant of whom married the ancestor of the present owner. A portion of the estate, called " Shyniug Cliff," was grnnted by Edward L, according to tradition, in the following quaint rhyme : — " I and myne Give thee and tbyne Milncs Hay and Shyning Cliff, Wliile grass is green and berys ryffo " [plentiful]. A short distance N.W. of Alder- wasley is Wigwell Grange, given in the reign of Henry HI. to the con- vent of Darley, and said to have been a favourite resort of the abbots. 13 m. $ Whatstandwell (locally, Walsall) Bridge (Stat.). The neigh- bourhood is a busy one, stone quarries, lead mines, stocking factories, and a gunpowder maga- zine, being scattered around. The pedestrian should take the road on E. to the summit of Crich Hill, 950 ft. The views during the ascent are lovely, embracing, to the W., the valley of the Derwent, the woods and park of Alderwasley, and Lea Hurst, while to the E. opens out tlie extensive district of Scars- dale, backed up by the Nottingham- shire hills. The hill is the western boundary of the carboniferous limestone that forms the belt of the Nottingham- shire coalfield, and extends through the largest portion of Derbyshire. It is rich not only in limestone, which is quarried and sent down the incline to Ambergate, but in lead-ore. The siimmit is capped bv a look-out tower, known far and wide as Crich Stand, which, erected 1788, commands a splendid view, extending on a clear day as far as Lincoln Cathedral. The Ch. at Crich contains several monuments of the Dixie family, and a curious lirass for a child (1639). In the village is a stone cross (restored 1871), with a representation of St. Michael and the Dragon. The tourist, instead of returning by the same road, should follow one that runs along the brow of the hill, passing E. of Lea Hurst, the occasional resilience of Miss Florence Nightingale, and emerging into the high road to Cromfortl or Matlock by a lane leading from Lea and Dethick. The rly. now crosses the Derwent, and, passing through a tunnel, arrives, after a very romantic course, at 15J m. $Cromford (Stat.), where the boldest scenery may be said to commence. Matlock Dale, as this portion of the vale of the Derwent lloute tx—Muilock Bath. 27 is called, is a narrow, •winding, and very striking defile, one of tlie grandest of the numerous ruptures of the mountain limestone occurring in Derbyslure, and but little inferior to Dovedale. From Cromfurd bridge there is a good view of Willersley, the exten- sive mansion of F. C. Arkwright, Esq., J.P., situated on a platform on the hillside, backed by woods and with a sloping lawn, sprinkled with beautiful forest-trees, sweeping down to the water's edge. The house contains, among other paint- ings, some by Wright of Derby. The gardens and grounds, extending up to the rocks of Wild Cat Tor, and facing Scartliin Tor, form one of the chief sights of Matlock, and are open to the public on Mondays. Close to the bridge is Cromford Oh., founded and partly endowed by the late Sir Richard Arkwright, and containing his grave, together with a monument by Chantrey to the memory of Mrs. Arkwright and her children. A little farther on are the mills of the Arkwrights, and the town of Cromford. This place, the cradle of the cotton manufacture, was a crown manor at the Domesday Survey, and only rose to notice about 1771, when" Sir R. Arkwright built a cotton-mill, the first in Derby- shire, which, with two others subse- quently erected, still employs a large number of hands. As late as 1836 Arkwriglit's original water-frames were in existence. The machinery is turned by the stream of an adit for draining mines, called Cromford M(^er Sough, whence also is deiived the chief supply of water for the Cromford ( 'auul, which begins near here. In addition to this, IJonsnll Brook, which ri.ses W. of Matlock, sets in motion several mills for grinding mineral colours, a consider- able quantity of which is made here. At the entrance of the town the road to Matlock Bath turns .sharjily to the rt. through a cleft in the rock, 200 ft. deep, called Scarthiu Nick. In an instant the tourist finds him- self in Matlock Dale, with Cromford shut out from view. The old bridle- road made a considerable a.sccnt and descent, and a wide circuit, to reach Matlock Bath. The hill called Cromford Moor (now brought into cultivation), S. of the town, was naturally a barren tract. Though poor above, it was once rich in mineral wealth, and commands from its upper part a most extensive view over the rich and well-wooded valley of the Der- went. One of the finest prospects in this neighbourhood is obtained from the top of Stonnis, called also " The Black Eocks," a lofty pro- jecting promontory of gritstone, which here overlies the limestone. Its ascent is a favourite excursion from Matlock. It is conspicuous from its tuft of black firs, and is skirted at its base by the Hiartuients are heads in relief of Henry VII. ; his queen Elizabeth of York; and, it is said. Will Somer.-;, the jester. The other carvings are coats of arms of the Peverils and Avenells (the earliest possessors of Haddon after the Conquest), and the boar's head of the Vernons, who held it from the time of Richard I. to that of Elizabeth. The last of the male line was the celebrated Sir George Vernon, called " The King of the Peak," on account of his splen- dour and hospitality. His arms and initials, with the date 1545, are over the fireplace. Several of the rooms retain their ancient tapestry hang- ings on the walls. Those of the earl's bedcliamber and dressing - room, above the dining-room bear a curious representation of a boar- hunt, the men in the costume of the 16th centy., and the dogs protected by a species of leather armour laced over their bodies, and ornamented with studs. The tapestries cover and conceal the doors, but, in order to prevent the necessity of lifting them up in order to pass, iron hooks are provided at the sides, by which they could be held back. The Long Gallery is of the time of Elizabeth, judging from the style of its decorations, the panelled walls, and the bow window, in which are seen the Rutland shield of 25 quar- terings. Round the frieze are the boar's head of Vernon, the peacock of Manners, and other animal de- vices. From this room is a good view of the garden divided into ter- races, fenced with antique stone balustrades, but no longer kept in order. In the adjoining ante-room is the door leading to the terrace (itself one of the most picturesque sights at Haddon), by which, accord- ing to the well-kuowii romantic story, the fair Dorothy Vernon, the heiress of these estates, eloped on a ball-night with her lover, Sir John Maimers. Next is the State Bed- room, in which are portraits of Eliza- beth, Charles I., and Prince Rupert, after Vandyck. The chimney-piece is ornamented with a grotesque re- presentation, in stucco, of Orpheus charming the beasts. Here are a liirge lonking-ghiss said to have JRoutc 6. — Chatsworth. 37 belonged to Queen Elizabeth, and the state bed (last occupkd by George IV.), the hangings of which were worked by Eleanor, daughter of Thomas Lord de Eoos, and wife of Sir Kobert Manners; also a rough wooden cradle, in which many of the Earls of Kutland were rocked. Adjoining this apartment is the ancient Stale Room containing some Gobelins tapestry, and a curious in- strument, designed, it is said, for stretching and stringing crossbows. The arch of the N. gateway is the segment of a circle, or rather it is a slovenly-constructed slightly-pointed circle, and not older than the 15th centy. The Eagle or Peveril's Tower, the oldest part of the build- ing, should be ascended for the sake of the view. A graceful little watch- tower springs from the Peveril Tower. A large part of the park was en- closed about 100 years ago, but the meadows around the hall preserve their park-like character. (2.) $ Chatsworth, " the Palace of the Peak," thougli easily accessible from Rowsley (lite. 5) and Hassop, is perhaps most conveniently visited from Bakewell. The carriage-road through Pilsley makes a circuit of 4 m., but there is a direct bridle or foot path, stretching up the hill called Bow Cross, a little to the rt. of the rly. stat., and through the woods, which leads to the house in a little under 3 ra. The summit of Bow Cross commands a splendid view, and the road descends thence by the side of Edensor Cli. into the park. $ Edensor is one of those villages which derive, from the vicinity of a noble and generous landlord, advan- tages denied to those more remote from such observation. The dwell- ings erected by the 6th Uuke are in the villa style, with gardens. The Ch. was also rel)uilt by him, under the dii-oction of Sir G. G. Scott, with a puljiit and font of Devonshire mar- ble. In the interior is a monument to the first Earl of Devonshire, with two recumbent figures, one a skele- ton (d. 1652) ; also a brass to John Betou (d. 1570), a confidential ser- vant of Mary Queen of Scots. In the ch.-yard is buried the 6th Duke of Devonshire (d. 1858). He re- poses under a plain uninscribed stone tomb, with a floriated cross sculptured on the top. Lord Fre- derick Cavendish, murdered in Phceuix Park, Dublin, on 6th May, 1882, and Sir Joseph Paxton are also buried in the ch.-yard. Chatsworth, " a house really large, neat, and admirable," as Camden says of its predecessor, the superb seat of the Duke of Devonshire, was originally a square Palladian build- ing with central court, erected by the ith Earl and 1st Duke of Devon- shire, in the reign of William III. To this a long wing was added by the late Duke, under the direction of Sir Jeffrey WyattviUe. But how- ever much this wing may add tn the capacity of the house, it detracts gi-eatly from its architectural cha- racter, which was one of dignified uniformity. It stands on a gi'iitly- sloping bank, near the margin of the " discreetly flowing Derwent," which runs through the midst ot the beautiful park. A velvet lawn reaches to tlie water's brink, scat- tered over with trees sheltering the lordly mansion, yet allowing the most jdeasiug glimpses as yoii approach it, tlirough the intervals between them, or underneath their branches. The first peep of the house seen among the trees coming from Edensor is very pleasing. The river is crossed by a stone bridge, ornamented with statues by Cihber, who was much employed in peopling the park and its groves with stone deities, nymphs, &c. He has re- corded in liis note-book, that " for ?8 Boute G.— Chatsicorih: Great Ball 2 statues, as big as life, I had 35L apiece, and all charges borne ; and at this rate I shall endeavour to serve a nobleman in freestone." Near the bridge is a small moated tower, called Queen Mary's Bower, from a tradition that the Queen of Scots passed much of her time here, and cultivated a small garden on its summit. In the eourt3'ard, be3'ond the entrance gateway, the way tn whicli is lined with tulip-trees, stands a beautiful weeping ash, transported in 1830, a full-grown tree 40 years old, from Derby, a distance of 24 m. In order to admit the passage of so huge a mass of branches and roots, with earth ad- hering tothem, tlie turnpike gates on the road had to be taken down. It would be tedious to eni;merate room by room all the treasures of this superb palace, some of the win- dows of which have the sills of white marble, and the external frames are gilt. Its interior is dis- tinguished lay the lavish expendi- ture of marble, not only of the native Derbyshire varieties, of which the finest existing specimens in pillars, pedestals, slabs, and tables are to be seen here, but also of foreign marbles and porphyries. Chats- worth also displays to the fullest extent the skill of Grinling Gibbons and his followers, in the elaborate borders, wreaths, festoons, &c., with which the state apartments are pro- fusely decorated. " All the wood- carving in England fades away before that of Gibbons at Chats- worth. The birds seem to live, the foliage to shoot, and the flowers to expand beneath your eye. The most marvellous work of all is a net of game; you imagine at the first glance that the gamekeeper has hiuigui") his day's .sport on the wall, and that some of the birds are still in their death flutter. There is no instance of a man before Gibbons who gave to wood the loose and airy lightness of flowers, and chained together the various productions of the elements with a free disorder natural to each species. In the great antechamber are several dead fowl over the chimney, finely exe- cuted, and, over a closet-door, a pen, not distinguishable from a real feather. When Gibbons had finished his work in this palace, he presented the Didfe with a point cravat, a woodcock, and a model of his own head." — Wcdiiole. He was assisted in these works by Samuel Watson, a Derbyshire artist of talent (see Heanor, Kte. 3), but the design and the spirit thrown into the whole probaljly belonged to the presiding master. Several of the apartments, including the chapel, are covered with paintings by Verrio, Lagnerre, and Sir James TlwrnhiU, in the shapes of heathen deities, allegories, apotheoses, composed of heaps of figures which seem ready to fall on your head. " On painted ceilings you devoutly stare, Where sprawl the saints of Verrio and Laguerre." Tlie following is a brief summary of the principal objects for notice in the various apartments. The Sub-Hall.— Tesselated pave- ment of the corridor ; and painted ceiling, after Guidd's Aurora. The Great Hall— Paintings by Verrio and Laguerre, representing scenes in the life of Julius Caesar the ceiling being occupied by his Apotheosis. Here is an enormously large encrinital marble slab, also bronze busts from the Exhibition of ] 8G2. From the Great Ilall, a corri- dor containing Swiss views leads to the Chapel, at the S.W. of the building. The altarpiece here is Verrio's best work — subject ' The Incredulity of Thomas.' The sta- tues of Faith and Hope on either side of it are by Gahriel Cihhcr, who was much employed liere, and tlie Route 6. — Chatsworth : Slate Rooms. 39 carvinu; by Wdtson. The siilo walls are adorned with paintin,2;3 from tlie life of our Saviour. Notioc two curious paintinp;s on glass, and the altar, an oval table of malachite. Another corridor leads from the chapel, containing Egyptian sculp- tures, to the Sketch Gallery, the walls of wliich are hung with draw- ings by Old INIasters, including many precious works ; a part of this collection was once in the possession of Sir Peter Lely and Charles I. It includes 4 by Michael Angelo (2 sketches of figures for the Sistine Chapel); Leonardo da V inci Ra- phael (a slight sketch of the figure of Paul preaching at Athens, &c.) ; Correggio ; Titian (his own portrait) ; Holbein, portraits of Henry VII. and Vlir., half life-size ; besides others, by Julio Romano, Salvator Rosa, Pierino del Vaga, Andrea del Surto, Albert Diirer, and Vandi/eli's sketch-book during his travels in Italy. In the South Picture Gallery are many beautiful paintings, such as a sea-piece hy Vandervelde; Titian, St. John in the Wilderness ; Leonardo da Vinei (perhaps 7vHi/w), the Infant Saviour with fruit, the upraised hand of which is very sweetly executed ; Jean Mabuse, tlie Presentation of the Virgin in the Temple (a (iotliic eimrcli), the priests in the costume of bishops of the 16th centy., with mitres ; in the foreground Anna and Joachim ; a curious picture some- what damaged. John Van Eyeh, Consecration of Tiiomas a Beckct as Archbishop of Canterbury, in tlie jiresence of the clergy, the hiily, and King Henry II. : " The proportions of tlie iiguresareratlier more slender than usual in Van Eyck, heads spirited, flesh of a brownish tone. The otiier colours, draperies, &c., of the richest aTid most glowing tints, especially the dark-red robe of the bisiioj) on the rt. hand, with golden embroidery. This picture liaa tiio oldest date (1421) of any known of Van Eyck."' Holbein, a man with a fiiiwer in his hand; Mnrillo, a Holy Family, the Ciiild in the cradle, St. Joseph at work ; Granet (a modern French painter), the Convent Chapel, monks as their devotions — a wonder- ful effect of evening light. Others hy Albert Diirrr, N. Poussin; Woman taken in Adultery, P. Vei-onese. The State Rooms, which extend along the S. front, and command an exquisite view, are profusely de- corated with carvings by Gibbons, whose celebrated lace cravat hangs in the first room. The equally cele- brated pen has been broken. There are also carvings by Watson, hardly inferior to these masterpieces. These rooms contain, among other things, the coronation cliairs of George III. and William IV. and their Queens, which were perquisites of the office of Lord Chamberlain, held on these occasions by Dukes of Devonshire. The Music-room has a collection of minerals and curious inlaid cabinets, and the State Drawing-room some copies of Raphael's cartoons and Gobelin tapestry. In the old State Drawing-room is a malachite clock, presented by tlie P^mperor of Russia, and the rosary of Henry VIII. The carved game and net of Gibbons in this room are particularly beautiful. In the private Drawing-room (not shown) is a beautiful copy, by Barto- lini, of the Venus de Medicis, and the following paintings by Old Masters: — Mary Q. of Scots, Zuc- chero ; Charles I., Jansen ; Duke of Albemarle, Lehj ; Henry VIII., Hol- bein; VhUi[)li., Titian; a Venetian Admiral, Tintoretto; the Archbishop of Spalatro ; Georgtana, Duchess of Devonshire, witli her child on her lap, by Sir Joshua Reynolds. '' Her face, which is seen in profile, is equally handsome and Jintclligent; the colouring remarkably warm, clear, and harmonious." There arc some other portraits iu the stale 40 Boutc 6. — CTiatsworth : Dining Boom. nparliut nts, including James Butler, 2nd Duke of Orinond, by Kneller; Richard Boyle, Earl of Burlington, by Knapton ; William, 1st Duke of DevonsJiire, by Kneller (or Eileij, 1707) ; George IV., by Lawrence, In the Red Velvet Room are chiefly modern paintings by English artists. It contains a sketch of tlie beautiful Duchess as a child with her mother, by Sir Joshua EeynolcU, signed by the artist; Landseer's celebrated Bolton Abbey : Collins, Boy opening the Gate ; Newton, a Scene from Gil Bias. The ceiling was painted by Thornliill. Some of the apartments are called Queen Mary's, not because she actually used them, but because they contain portions of the furniture from the rooms in the old house (long shice pulled down) occupied by her when Lord Shrewsbury was allowed to remove hither with his prisoner from Sheflield Manor, Wingfield, or Hardwick. These short visits occurred in 1570, 1573, 1.577, 1578, and in 1581. Lord Burleigh commends Chatsworth as " a very mete bowse for good pre- servation of his charge, having no towre of resort, wher any ambushes might lye." Hobbes, the philosopher, resided for some time in the old house, as tutor to the Earl of Devon- shire, 1631. He wrote here hie work ' De Mirabilibus Pecci.' The New Staircase, built by Sir J. Wyatfville, is far more striking than the old, called the Grand Stairs. The Library (not shown) is a noble apartment, decorated with pillars of rosewood marble, and lilack and grey marble, from Ash- f'trd ; also with two vases of grey Siberian jasper, gifts of the Em- peror Nicholas ; it contains a highly valuable collection of rare books, including many from the Duke of Iloxburgh's library. Here are the oldest Florentine Homer, on vellura ; rare editions jiriited by Caxton ; and many ancient MSS. with beautiful miniatures ; among them a missal of King Henry VII., given by his daughter Margaret, Queen of Scot- land, to the Archbishop of St. An- drew's, with paintings executed probably by Flemish artists, scholars of Van Eych. There is also the " Liber Veritatis,'' or sketch-book of Claude Lorrain, in which he entered outlines, often very slight ones, of his great i^ictures. The New Dining Eoom, a noble room with a coved roof, contains the following portraits by Vandyck: the Earl of Devonshire; "except tliat the position of the legs is not happy, a picture of much delicacy and elegance." His Countess, "ex- tremely pleasing; the attitude of walking gives the figure much ani- mation." Jane, daughter of Arthur Goodwin ; " The brightness of the tone, and the delicacy of the treat- ment, give a great charm to this picture ' Joanna of Blois, after- wards Lady Eich : "To my mind, one of the most beautiful of Van- dycFs female portraits, and wonder- fully charming: the clear, power- ful colouring, the bright shining . tone of the flesh, and the careful execution in all the parts, give reason to believe that it was painted rather before his settling in Eng- land." Arthur Goodwin : " The countenance is very pleasing, and the execution extremely true to nature; the colouring less forcible than usual, but in a delicate clear tone, date 1639." Gerard Hont- liorst : the Countess of Devonshire, with her two sons and daughters : " Compared with Vandyck, the ar- rangement is rather too inartificial, and the space not sufliciently filled ; otherwise it is very spirited and carefully painted, and the colouring is fine and clear." — Waagan. The portals at cither end of this room are adorned with pillars of African and Route G. — Chatsn-orth : Sculpture Gallerij. 41 red breccia: tlio two chimney-pieces, wliich cost 1000 guineas each, are of Carrara marble by Westmacott, the youDger, and Sevier; the side- tables are made of horn-blende, porphyritic syenite, and "Siberian jasper. The Sculpture Gallery, a noble hall, lighted from above, is filled ■with works for the most part by modern artists of various countries, iuclu'ling several of the best statues by Canova ; and foremost among them, the sitting statue of Madame Letitia, mother of Napoleon, a com- bination of ease and dignity, finished with the utmost care; the idea is from the antique statue of Agrip- piua; it is a si)lendid achievement of the chisel. A colossid bust of Napoleon. Endymioa asleep, watched by his Dog : " The task of representing all the limbs dissolved in repose is peculiarly adapted to Caiiova's genius, so that this is a work of the greatest softness, and of the highest finish of the marble." Hebe potu'iug water froai a Vase, one of CunovcCs best works. Thorioaldseu, Yenus with the Apijle : " The gi'aceful action pecu- liar to tliis artist, the natural beauty and healthful fulness of the forms, make this work very pleasing." Bust of Card. Gonsalvi : "The line sensible features are given with great spirit, and the workmanshiiJ is highly finished." Bas-reliefs of Morning and Night. The Filatrice, or Spinning Girl, by Schadoiv, a Prussian, is an elegant figure. Castor and Pollux, bas-relief. The Quoit Player (Discobolus), by Kes- sels, a Belgian, is true to nature, and original in conception : ■' Very spu'ited and carefully executed iu all the parts, according to the model." The pedestal is inlaid with Swedish j)orj)hyry from Elf- dalcn. 1 Cupid taking a tliorn from Veiius's foot: carefidiy executed, but with little meaning in its composition. TaddoUni, — Ganj'mede caressing the Eagle : a pretty and well-exe- cuted work. BartolinU a Bacchante. Gibson, Mars and Cupid. Westma- cott the younger, a Cymbal Player, and on the pedestal a bas-relief of a Bacchante; both very spirited. In the centre of the gallery stands a large granite basin, worked at Berlin, by Cant inn, out of one of those re- markable boulder-stones which strew the sandy flats of Brandenburg, and worth notice from its size and finish. A vase of white marble contains the modelling-stick, chisel, pen, and glove, last used by Canova. A vase of fluor spar (called in the county " Blue John "), the largest ever made ; a table formed of slabs of Labrador felspar, found near St. Petersburg, where there is no such rock in situ ; a table of white marble from the columns of the temi^le on Cape Colonna ; and a copy of the Grand Mosaic diseoveredat Pompeii, of the battle of Darius, also deserve notice. There are many rooms not shown in this vast mansion. The kitchen is an apartment of lofty dimensions, exceedingly well arranged, and the spits turned by a water-wheel. The cellars are spacious, and contain 12 ale-casks, called the Apostles, given by William III. to the first Duke. Besides the various treasures enu- merated above, the Duke has one of the finest privatecabinetsof minerals in Great Britain, including all the most rare specimens that Derbyshire produces; and among the jjrecious gems, an emerald purchased from Don Pedro, Emperor of Brazil, which in size and uniform depth of colour is scarcely to be sur- ])assed. The visitor passes out of the Sculpture Gallery into the Portland Walk, a glass covered way, leading from the house to the stables, which 42 Route 6. — Chatsworth : Conservatory. contains some very line wall-plauts, amongst others a remarkable rhodo- dendron, and a fine si)ecimen of Ca- mellia Beticulata, some of the flowers of which are 8 inches across, and thence into tlie Gardens, which in- chide 80 acres of mown lawn ; tiiey are laid ont in tlie formal style, and ornamented with statues, vases, and pillars. A lofty wall, heated from within, and lined witli glass, is covered with delicate plants, as casnarinse, aca- cias. Near the Italian Garden in front of the house is a vigorous young oak, planted by the Princess ! Victoria when she visited Ohats- wortii in 1832. Close to it are two otiior trees planted by tlie Prince Consort, and the Duchess of Kent. Passing through a curious gate formed by a single massive stone moving on a pivot, the visitor enters the grounds appropriated to azaleas and rhododendrons. The Arboretum, a plantation of different kinds of trees from various parts of the globe, as far as they can be naturalised in this climate, occupies 40 acres on the slope of the hill. There are hothouses in the Kitchen Garden (for which an order is required) for forcing fruit, besides graperies, cherry and straw- berry houses. From the slope of the hill, nearly behind the house, descends a colossal flii^ht of steps, surmounted by a Temple, from every part of which, on opening a valve, gush fortii copious streams of water, so as to form, in descending the flight, a long artificial cascade, disappearing into the ground at the bottom. A more pleasing object than this is the Emperor Fountain, so called in honour of the visit of tlie Czar in 1844, a very lofty jet-d'eau, rising from the centre of a long sheet of water to a height of 2G7 ft., shel- tered on either side by a shady screen of limes. There ia also a curious contrivance, designed aiid executed by Mons. Guillet about 1790, in the form of a weeping willow, made of metal, every branch of which is a pipe, and which can be made to deluge the unwary tres- passer. These are all supplied with water from a reservoir of 6 acres, on tlie hill-top, situated near the Hunt- ing Tower, built in the time of Queen Elizabeth as a prospect for the ladies of the household ; it is a tall square building with 4 turrets conspicuous far and near, and marked by a flag on the summit when the Duke is at home. These stately avenues, lawns, and waterworks, resemble, on a smaller scale, those of Versailles and St. Cloud. The waterworks belong to Old Chats- worth, but the horticulture and arboricultural achievements were carried out by the late Duke under the late Sir Joseph Paxton's super- intendence. Tlie Great Conservatory, the glory of Chatsworth, is approached through an avenue of rocks, not a mere puny pile of stones, but an immense com- bination of huge blocks, skilfully composed to imitate a natural ravine or gorge. The carriage road — for the conservatory is so large as to be entered and traversed by carriages — is so contrived that nothing is seen till the visitor reaches the threshold and the folding gates are thrown open. This palace of glass consists of coved sides, surmounted by a semicircular arcade, suiiported on slender iron pillars, having arched projections at both ends. It is 276 ft. long, 123 ft. wide, and 65 ft. high, and covers nearly an acre of ground. It contains 40 m. of sash bar.s, made at the rate of 2000 ft. a day, by a machine designed by Sir Josepli Paxton. The framework is of wood, the arches formed ot bent deal planks, applied together by iron fast- enings ; the panes of glass are dis- posed obliquely, in alternate ridges and furrows, like the folds of a fan Jtoufr 6. — Ashfunl. 43 or the plaits of a frill, so as to tlirow off tlio rain. A ^-^allcry runs rouiul it, whence one can lof)k down npun a forest of tropical foliage, palms and cedars, pines and ferns. In one corner a pile of arti- ficial rock serves for the growth of ferns, orchidacea^., and cactaj, while it conceals the staircase leading to the gallery. Eight large furnaces neat this house throngh pipes 7 m. long, which alone cost 1500?. They are supplied with fuel by a subterranean tramway, through a tunnel | m. in length. The whole was planned by the 6th Duke and Sir J. Paxton, under whose superintendence it was executed. in the kitchen gardens, which are | m. N. of the house, and re- quire a special order for admission, is the New Holland House, con- taining plants from the Australian colonies. The Victoria Eegia, or royal water-lily, has a peculiar house ap- propriated to it, containing a tank 34 ft. in diameter, the water in which is kept in motion by a wheel. Near the kitchen gardens is the pretty residence of the late Sir J. Paxton. The Cyclopean Aqueduct is a vast structure of numerous lofty arches formed of rough-hewn angular grit- stone masonry, destined to carry a stream of water to form a cascade 150 ft. high, after the fashion of a similar structure at Cassel. Should tlie visitor be obliged to return to his head-quarters without extending his travels in Derbyshire, he may leave Chatsworth by a dif- ferent route from that by wliicli he entered, as he can rejoin the railway at^either Hassop, Pakewell, or Rows- ley ; the distance is about the same (3 or 4 m.) in either case. (3.) The Lathkill. A very pleasant cxcursiou may be made over the moors westward to Cver Haddon (2J m.), a picturesque village, and thence up the Vale of I.athkill. a spot of rare beauty. It is traversed by the stream of the same name, a beautiful trout river, strictly pre- served by the Duke of Rutland ; pedestrians, however, may follow its course without let or hindrance. Cotton says of this river, that it is " by many degrees the purest and most transparent stream that I ever 5'et saw, and breeds the reddest and best trouts in England." Some 2J or 3 m. above Over Haddon, the Lathkill issues from a cavern in the limestone opposite the romantic Parson's Tor. It was formerly called Fox Tor, but gained its present name from a fatal accident that befell the Rev. R. Lomas, the incumbent of Monyash, who, coming home from Bakew'ell in a tem- pestuous night (October 11, 177G), missed his way and fell over the Tor. The Lathkill is joined by the Bradford at Alport, and falls into the Wye at Fillyford Bridge, near Rowsley.- (4.) To Buxton by Road will be by many preferred to the rly. ; the scenery is very agreeable, and it is well worth while to slightly lengthen the distance (12 m.) by an occasional stroll on the lovely banks of the Wye. At IJ m. is $Asliford, locally known as Ashford-in-the-Water, from its standing on the Wye, wldch supplies water power for several marble mills. In the churchyard are some fine yew-trees. On the wall of the porch of the Ch. is a sculpture of a wolf and wild boar beneath a tree. In the N. aisle the visitor may see five funeral garlands still hanging, the relics of a very pretty custom at one time prevalent in Derbyshire. Tiiis custom fell into disuse, perhaps a century ago, but has of late u Route 6. — Tadclington. years becu revived. {tice Ham, Ete. 34.) "Now the low beams with paper garlands hung, In memory of some village youth or maid, Draw the soft tear, from thrill'd remem- brance sprung ; How oft my childhood mark'd that tribute paid ! " Jnna SetuarcL The practice of ringing the Curfew is still kept up in Ashford, and the still rarer one of the pancake-bell on Shrove Tuesday. Close to the village is Ashford Hall, and at the W. end of the village are the marble-works fur which this place is celebrated, where the various marbles found in this county are cut, polished, and turned in lathes. The best marble occurs in beds, none of which are more than 8 in. thick, alternating with chert. This neigh- bourhood furnishes all the finest varieties, sucli as the entrochal, bird's eye, and the rosewood, which are obtained from a quarry about 1 m. from the village. The road follows the Wye to Monsal Dale, 2 J m., where the river flows in from the N. from Miller's Dale, at which is a Ely. Stat. (post). Monsal Dale, which at this point is joined by a small brook from Deep Dale, is about 2J m. in length (com- mencing from Cressbrook Dale), and is a most lovely combination of rock and river scenery, as the stream flows under Fin Cop and Brushfield Hough. "And Monsal, thou mine of Arcadian trea- sure, Need we seek for Greek islands and spice-laden gales, AVhile a Temple like thee, of enchant- ment and pleasure. May be found in our own native Derby- shire daks ? " E. Cook. A barrow opened at this latter spot contained a curious collection of swords and javelins. Another barrow at the same place was called the Gosiiel Hillocli, " perhaps from tiie first Christian missionary having taken his stand thereon while ex- horting the Saxons to forsake the worship of Woden and Thor." — Bateman. By ascending Brushfield Hough, a very striking view is obtained. The Wye is seen at foot, winding from IMousol to Miller's Dale, and is crossed by a lofty viaduct, over which the train rushes as it emerges from the tunnel. The walk may be ex- tended to Longstone Edge, which gives another wide view, and by passing through the picturesque vil- lages of Little and Great Longstone to the Buxton road, which now leaves the river, and is carried up a streamless valley to Taddington, 6 m. from Bakewell. Taddington stands on high ground, overlooking the valley of the Wye. Its small Ch. has a brass to one of the Blackwells, who have given name to an adjoining township. In the Ch.-yd. is the shaft of a Celtic cross. Miller's Dale (Stat.) is 1 J m. N. (post) ; and about a like dis- tance S.W. is Chelmorton, with a Ch. worth a visit. It is of various styles, and has a dwarf stone chancel-screen and a carved font. There are two large barrows on the hill above the village. The road again comes near the river and the rly. at King's Stem- dale, 9 ra. from Bakewell, and scarcely ever loses sight of either for the rest of the journey. At lOi m. is an ascent into Ashwood Dale, a charming spot, through which the Wye flows, sometimes in miniature rapids, sometimes in wide glassy pools, so pleasant to the angler. Wood-clad slopes bound it on either side, ricli in foliage, and surmounted by cliffs of limestone, scarped by the engineer, yet not altogether bare, for the ivy has crept over their surface, and some hardv shrubs have found root in Bnnfe G. — Hassap —TiflesivclL 45 their crannies. It must be adinitted that the rly. works, however bold and vigorous in themselves, do not add to tlie beautj' of the vale. At its northern end is the picturesque chasm called the Lover's Leap (Rte. 7) ; and 1 ra. farther is Buxton. Proceeding to Buxton by the Eailway, at 2 m. is Hassop (Stat.). The very small village stands at the foot of a lofty hill. 1 ra. N. is Hassop Hall (Chas. Stephen Leslie, Esq.), a house held by one of the Eyres for Charles I. A handsome Kora. Cath. chapel ad- joius the Hall. The Eyres, for about a century, were styled Earls of New- burgh, but on the failure of their line, in 1853, the title was declared to belong to the Princess Giusti- riiani, the descendant of the -Ith Earl, who died in 1768. 3 m. Longstone (Stat.). The vil- lages of Great and Little Longstone lie N. of the Stat, and behind them Longstone Edge stretches toward Stoney Middleton. Longstone Hall (Rev. J. H. Bullivant) was, accord- ing to tradition, a hunting-seat of Henry VII. A tunnel succeeds, on emerging from which a glorious view breaks suddenly on the travel- ler as the train mshes through Monsal Dale, at a great heiglit above the river, looking down upon the tributary CresshrooJc Dale, with the little colony of mills at its mouth. Immediately above it is the hill callt d Haij Top, where, in a large flat-topped barrow, an ex- ceedingly beautiful food-vessel was found, together with the skeleton of a child. And on Longstone Edge, in a barrow called Blalte Low, were found the skeletons of a girl and a child, together with a drinking-euiJ and the tine of a stag's antler. At 5^ m, notice on N. a very curious prolongation of limestone, known as Tongue End, which guards the entrance to Tideswell Dale. 6h m. $Mmer's Dale (Stat.), a resort for anglers. The tourist should alight here for the purpose of exploring the various dales at his leisure, as well as for visiting $ Tideswell, a small town, 3 m. N.E., so called from an ebbing and flowing well, which is still to be seen at the entrance to the town. " Here also is a well. Whose waters do excel All waters thereabout. Both being in and out Ebbing and flowing." Sir A. Cockayne, 1658. But the town is worth a visit for the sake of its magnificent Cli., principally of Dec. style. It is cruciform, with an embattled and pinnacled tower at the W. end ; the windows are particularly fine. In the centre of the spacious chancel is the altar-tomb of Sir Sampson Meverell (d. 1462) ; the marble slab has a fine brass, with evangelistic symbols, &c., and a long account of the deceased, who served in France under the Duke of Bedford, and was knighted by him; the slab is sup- ported on pillars, and underneath is seen a figure of a skeleton. On the N. side is the altar-tomb of Robert Pursglove, prior of Gisburne, made suftragan bishopof Hullin the reign of Henry VIII. ; his brass repre- sents him in full pontifical vest- ments (though he survived till 1579), and is regarded as a valuable example of its class (Haines, 'Mon. Brasses ') ; he was a native of the town, and the Grammar School founded by him still exists. An earlier brass is one for John Fol- janibe, a great benefactor to the Ch. (d. 1358). There is another brass for Robert Lytton and wife (1483). The I.iyttons, a family of great antiquity, intermarried with the Bulwers of Norfolk, and, by selling their estates in the time of Eliza- beth, severed their connt?ction with the Peak country. There were two chapels in the S. transept : one. now 46 Boute 7. — Buxton to Manchester. carefully restored, belonged to the Lyttons ; in the other are eflSgies of Sir Tliurstan de Bower and Mar- garet his wife, of the early part of 15th cent. In the N. transept is the Lady Chapel, which belonged to the guild of St. Mary. At Wheston, another hamlet, eouuected with the N. transept, and about 1§ m. distant, is an ancient stone cross. The Ch. there, recently re- stored, has a stone reredos standing in advance of the E. wall. [From Tideswell a wild mountain road of 5 m. leads through the mining village of Little Hucklow to Castleton (Ete. 8).] At 7i m, the Ely. passes in a tun- nel under Chee Tor, one of the finest clift's in the dale, at 8J m. the line to Chai)el-en-le-Frith and Man- chester branches off N. (Ete. 7), and at 11 J m. Buxton is reached (Ete. 7). "For these last 3 m. especially, the rly. works are very heavy, tunnels and bridges and viaducts succeeding each other with bewildering rapidity. To form any adequate idea of them the tourist is advised to walk from Buxton through Ashwood Dale to the Miller's Dale Stat. (5 m.), keeping in sight of the pretty little Wye the whole way. The botanist will find the beautiful Geranium prateuse, and even rarer plants, and the geologist will be interested iu the sections of the limestone. EOUTE 7. BUXTON TO MANCHESTER, llY CHAPEL-EN-LE-FRITH. L. AND N.-W. KAILWAY. . 24 m. $ Buxton. This celebrated in- land watering-place is situated in an upland vallej', 1100 ft. above the sea, surrounded on the S. by lime- stone rocks, and on the N. by round gritstone hills, which are gradually being covered by the dark foliage of fir plantations. It stands on the Derbyshire Wye, near its source, and to make room for the Crescent, the stream has in one part been arched over like a sewer and hid from view. The climate of this elevated region is rough, the wind stormy, and the rain frequent, with rapid changes of temperature ; yet the air is clear and dry, partly owing, no doubt, to the absorbent nature of the soil, and the fame of the waters attracts yearly a large number of visitors. The resident pojiulation is scattered thinly, except in the town itself, over a large surface, much of which is used as grazing ground. Though essentially a modern watering-jjlace, Buxton bears evi- dence of great antiquity, and Gale, the antiquary, believed it to have been the Aquis of John of Eavenna. That tlie springs were known to the Eomans is certain, as at the time of the building of the Crescent remains of a Eoman bath were discovered ; and that there was a town is rendered probable by the fact that two prin- cipal roads intersected each other here, viz. from Mancuuium (Man- chester) through Chester, and from Congleton to Brough, a village be- yond Castleton ; a i^ortion of this road, called the Batham Gate, is easily traceable between Tideswell and Castleton. Tlie springs were in high rej)ute in the Middle Ages, and the chapel of St. Ann in Old Buxton was crowded by devotees who resorted to them. This con- course was either prohibited or fell into disuse at the Eeformation, but in the reign of Elizabeth the waters again came iato repute, so that the Earl and Countess of Shrewsbury brought hither thdir prisoner, Mary Queen of Scots, placing her in the j^ lews- 1^ aths, ^ plied I teiu. .'•or is iug N. to the springs and'tlie mil- 1 wEicii may ue liSSirea, by tlie appli- o BUXTON AND ENVIRONS 6 Lotulon John MniToyi Alhciuarlc- Stroci Route 7. — Buxton: Crescent. 47 01(1 Hall, a part of wliich still exists, incorporated into the hotel of the same name. She was met here by Burghley, who also came lor the benefit of the waters, and had thereby nearly excited the displeasure of his mistress, Queen Elizabeth, who feared lest the fasciuatious of her rival siiould seduce even the crafty Cecil from his duty. " At the rise of the Wye are nine springs of hot water, call'd at present Buxton Well, which being found by experience very good for the stomach, the nerves, and the whole body, the Most Honourable George Earl of Shrews- bury has lately adorn'd them with buildings, and they begin to be frequented by great numbers of the nobility and gentry, about which time the unfortunate and heroic princess, Mary Queen of Scots, took her farewell of Buxton in this distich, which is nothing but an alteration of Caesar's verses upon Feltria : — " ' Buxtona quce calidae celebrabere nomine lymphic. Forte mihi posthac non adeunda, vale.' But this is beside my business." — Camden. The visitors, however, were very indifferently accommcdated, even a century later than Camden's time, according to a 17th-centy. ' Tour in Derbyshire,' cited by Macaulay. "The gentry of Derbyshire and of the neighbouring counties repaired to Buxton, where they were crowded into low wooden sheds, and regak d with oatcake and with a viand which the hosts called mutton, but which the guests strongly suspected to be dog."— (Hist. Eng. vol. i.). Buxton consists of two parts ; (1) Old or High Buxton, to the S., si ill retaining something of its primitive appearance, with its antique chapel and remains of a market-cross ; and (2) the Buxton of modern date, en- Ircling St. Ann's clilF, and stretcli- ing N. to the springs and the rail- way. Buxton, like IMatlock, abounds in so-called museums or shops for the sale of Derbyshire spar, &c. The mineral waters — fm-uished from two sources, one tepid, having a temperature at its source of 82° Fahr., and the other cold — are without taste or smell, and are said to resemble those of Wildbad, in Germany. The well of St. Ann, whence they issue, at the W, end of the lower walk, is covered with a neat stone canopy, and is reckoned one of the seven wonders of the Peak, because it furnislies both hot and cold water from springs rising not more than 12 in. apart. " Unto St. Ann the fountain sacred is ; ^Vith waters hot and cold its sources rise, And in its sulphur veins there medicine lies. This cures the palsied members of the old, And cherishes the nerves grown stiff and cold. Crutches the lame into its brink convey. Returning, the ingrates fling them away." Hohhes, ' Ue Mirabilibus Pecci.' These waters are sometimes drunk, but chiefly used for baths, and are considered efficacious in cases of chronic rheumatism and gout. They contain iron, lime, magnesia, potash and soda. A chalybeate spring rising at a short distance is mixetl with those waters so as to form a purgative. The chief feature of the town is the Crescent, by Carr, of York, erected by the 5th Duke of Devon- shire in 1781, at a cost of 120,000/., supplied by the profits of the Ecton copper-mine (Rte. 33). It is a hand- some range of buiUling, including an assembly-room, the St. Ann's and Crescent Hotels, and a news- room. Here are the tepid baths, both public and private, supplied with tiie water at its natural tem- perature. The hot baths are near tlie E. end of the Crescent. Here the water is heated to any degree tif warmth which may be desired, by the appli- 48 Route 7. — Buxton: Poole's Hole. cation of steam. The natural batlis and the wells for drinking (includ- ing St. Ann's) are at the W. of the Crescent, with which all of them are connected by very light and elegant corridors. They have been rebuilt from designs by Mr. Currey. At the further end of the Broad Walk there is a good swimming bath. A covered corridor leads from the Crescent to the Square, and forms a sheltered promenade. At the back of the Crescent is the DevonsMi'e Hospital, formerly very extensive stables, built by the Duke in 1781. It contains 300 beds, and relieves about 3000 patients in the year. What was formerly a large open circular space, surrounded by the hospital buildings, has been covered in by a large dome, witli four small ones at the corners, and a lantern tower in the centre. The diameter of the tower is no less than 154 feet, and it occupies about half an acre. Opposite to it is the Ch. of St. John, a foundation of the 6th Duke, 1812. The old Ch., or more properly chapel of St. Ann (Buxton being a chapelry of Bakewell), is a small rude building, probably of the time of Elizabeth ; it now serves as a school-church. The Town Hall, with a Free Library, built in commemoration of the Jubilee of Her Majesty, con- tains a statue of Lord Frederick Cavendish. The Jubilee clock was also put up as a memorial to him. St. Ann's Cliff, which rises imme- diately in front of the Crescent, was laid out in terrace walks by Sir J. Wyattville, and forms the chief pro- menade for invalids. Opposite the Old Hall Hotel is the Park, a large encdo.sure laid out in winding walks, with flower-beds and seats ; the river Wye, which runs through it, is crossed by rustic bridges, and forms lakes and" cascades on a very mode- rate scale. Attached to the gaideus is a glass •' Pavilion " with a room 400 ft. long, for balls and concerts, and jJromenades. Here there are daily concerts and recitals. Ad- mission, 4f?. and 6d., or 3s. per week. One very pleasant feature of the S. part of Buxton is the Duke's Drive, a circuit of 2J ra., which leads from the Ashbourne to the Bakewell road. Part of it is a charming walk or drive, overlook- ing the valley of the Wye. It falls into the Bakewell road, a short distance N. of the Lover's Leap, a deep chasm in the rocks, which in some places appear almost to touch overhead; the pretty little stream that traverses it yields much to reward the botanist. 1 m. to the W. of the town, at the foot of Grinlow Hill, is Poole's Hole (or Cavern, as named by the showmen), which has obtained a reputation, not deserved, as one of the wonders of the Peak. It is named, according to the story, from an outlaw and robber who made it his dwelling. The entrance to it is low and narrow, but bath chairs can be taken in, fur the accommodation of invalids. Its length (lighted throughout with gas) is said to exceed 600 yards, but this is an exaggeration. It contains some fine stalactites, and in this respect sur- passes the Peak Cavern, to which in all other points it is inferior. To these fanciful names are given : one is called the Queen of Scots' Pillar, from a tradition that Mary actually penetrated thus far. The Wye takes its source in this cave, and flows underground for some little distance before it appears to the light of day. " At length the pretty Wye From her black mother Poole her nimble course doth ply Tow'rds Darren " [Derwent]. The reputation of the Buxton Haute 7. — Buxton : Excursions. 40 curiosities was sung by Sir Aston Cokaiae in 1658 : — " The Pike to Tennariff All liigh ropute ilotli give ; And the Coloss of brass, AVhercunder ships did pass, Made Khodes aspire. Tollbridge malccs Kent renown'd, And i'^isom Snrrye's ground ; Poole-hole and iSt. Anne's Well Makes Darbj'shire excell Many a shire." Buxton offers to the tourist luauy tine walks and drives, the greater part of them depending ibr their beauty on theii' elevation. A frequent and easy walk is to Diamond Hill, 2 m. W. ; on the sunnuit of wliich are some loose stones, the remains of a tower, called Solomon's Temjjle, commanding a splendid view. The road to it runs through a ravine, between Griulow and Laidnian's Low, in which the so-called diamonds or quartz pebbles are found. The limestone rocks in the ueighbom'hoi)d are quarried to a great extent, mid burned for lime, which is conveyed away by tram- roads communicating with the High Peak Ely. The hillside called Grin- low used to be dotted over with the singular dwellings of the workmen, excavated in the heaps of refuse limestone, which, becoming solid on the surface after exposure to the weather, were hollowed out and propped up by walls. They resem- bled the burrows of annuals or the huts of Laplanders, and, though seldom receivmg light, except from the door and chimney, contained several apartments, and were occu- jiied by whole families of Trog- lodytes. Of late years, however, proper habitations have been erected for the lime-burners at the adjoining N illage of Burbage. Excursions. — ^1.) Au interesting walk may be taken to Chee Tor, 5 m. E., passing by Fairlicld to Wormhill, where is a curious old iiousc of the Bagshaws. A little [_Ucrit/, itc.J beyond Wurmhill Oh., opposite the Hall, a steep and narrow path leads into the depths of the dale, at a spot where two copious springs of water issue from beneath the rocks and rush down to join the Wye. Their previous course is curious; they are engulfed in the earth at Water Swallows, near Fair- field, and pm-sue a subterranean course for 3 m., until they emerge at this spot. Chee Tor is a tall bare rock of limestone, rising out of the wooded valley to a height it is said of 300 ft., nearly insulated by the river, which, makes an almost cir- cular sweep round its base, while the rocks on the opposite side are Ijeut into the form of a crescent oi' amphi- theatre, concave and partly over- hanging their base. The rly., though close at hand, fortunately passes tlirough a short tunnel, and except at one small spot is entirely con- cealed from view. Opposite the Tor are several picturesque dales, with Topley Pike in the distance. Miller's Dale (Stat.), for the return to Buxton, is about 2 m. E. (2.) A somewhat longer excursion may be made on the W. side of Buxton, by passing through Burbage (1 m.), where is a modern Norm. Ch., and cros.sing the branch that connects the works of the Buxton Lime Company with the High Peak Kly. ; these are of vast extent, em- ploying several hundred men. At 2J m. from Buxton the foot of Axe Edge is reached, it is one of the high- est hills in Derbyshire, 1750 ft. above the sea, and still in its primitive condition of moss, heather, and bilberry, affording a good cover for grouse. Indeed, it is the higliest, next to the Kinderscout range, between Oastleton ' and Glossop. Here the road divides, that to the rt. going into Cheshire, ayd that to the 1. to the Staffordshu-c moorlands (Rte. 35). The pedestrian should take the lirst, and proceed as far as 50 Boute 7. — Whaley Bridge— Dove Holes. a little inn, called the Cat aud Fiddle (5 m. from Buxtou). The view from the smnmit of Axe Edge embraces a large extent of the high table-lauds of Derbyshire, Stafford- shii-e, and Cheshire. Four rivers have their fountain-head here, viz., the Dove and the Wye flowing eastward, and the Dane and Goyt towards the Irish Sea. The return to Buxton may be made by the Goyt Valley, leaving the Cat and Fiddle by the old Roman road, the first turning on the left enters the valley, a noted drive, which rivals on a small scale the beauty of a Swiss pass. This valley or clough ends at Goyt's bridge, whence either by walking over Goyt's Moss, or by the carriage- road which joins the Man- chester Eoad at Long Hill, Buxton may be reached. The distance is about 6 m. A longer drive back may be made by Dale Head, whence a beautiful view of the Tors at the head of Beresford Dale is obtained. Thence to Staddon Moor, where some ancient earthworks may be noticed, and then into Buxtou by the Duke's Drive. The extreme distance will be 12 m. ; but the walk over the summit of Axe Edge, which is essential to the attainment of the best views, is rather rough. (3.) An excursion to Whaley Bridge (6 m.). by the coach road to Stockport, leads through some fine scenery. The road rises for about 2 m. beyond Buxton, and then descends for nearly 5 m. ; it is well selected and carried round the shoulder of Comb's Moss, through Windy Gap ; at its highest point it is at least 1700 ft. above the sea. On the N.W. spur of the hill is a well-preserved Roman camp. The village of Fernilee presents nothing remarkable, but close adjoining is Errwood Hall (Mrs. Grimshawe), a modern Italian mansion, beautifully situated at the junction of two woDded dales. Above it are bold moors, but the ground to the E. is an uninteresting open district of pasture-land, destitute of trees, and intersected by stone walls. The road runs near the High Peak Ely., and passes on E. the stationary engine-house used for drawing waggons up the sirmmit incline. Soon after, the pretty village of Taxal (in Cheshire) is reached, and next Whaley Bridge, a much more pleasant spot than the majority of factory districts. (See Handbook for Cheshire.) The rly. furnishes a ready means of return to Buxton, or of proceeding to Stockport or Man- chester. (4.) Several places in the vicinity of stations may yet be more agree- ably visited by road. Among them are, the Peak Forest, 5 ra. ; Tides- well, 7 m. ; Lyme Hall, 13 m. ; and Chatsworth and Haddon Hall, 14 m. Eyam and Castleton are each about 12 m. from Buxton, and an omnibus runs daily to Castleton in the summer. Leaving Buxton, the London & North-Western Rly. runs at the foot of Comb's Moss through a bleak country, the chief industry of which appears to be lime-burning, to 3 m. Dove Holes (Stat.). The place, which is a hamlet of Worm- liill, derives its name from some of the swallow-holes so prevalent in this district, where brooks suddenly disappear to run a subterranean course. Here the line is crossed by the Midland Rly. to Manchester, in a tunnel and deep cutting. About IJ m. N.E., near Barmoor Clough, a little off the Castleton road, is the "ebhinrj and flowing well" used to be considered one of " the wonders of Derbyshire," though its action was readily accounted for, on the principle of tlie syphon. "It is," says Adams, "an intermittent spring, the frequency of its action Houte 7. — Chnpel-en-le-FrUh~-Iioos(hjch. 51 clepeiidinp; on the quantity of rain which fulls, so that in dry weather the stranger may wait in vain for the manifestation of this pheno- menon, but in very wet seasons it will sometimes ebb and flow twice in an hour. The action when it first commences is scarcely perceiv- able, but before the expiration of a minute the water issues with con- siderable force from 9 small aper- tures on the S. and W. sides. It continues to flow about 5 minutes, and in this space of time is supposed to throw out about 120 hogsheads of water. The greatest part of it runs off under tlie road, and part lapses back again, and tlie well speedily resumes its original quiet appear- ance." Since the rly. was con- structed, however, this action has ceased, and the well is now only a drinking pond for cattle. 6 m. $ Chapel-en-le-Frith (Stat.; also a stat. on the Midland Rly., f m. N.) consists mainly of a single straight street ; the Ch., which is dedicated to St. Thomas a Becket, is a very plain structure. Cotton and paper mills, and print works, appear in the low grounds, evidencing approach to the manufacturing dis- tricts. All around are high hills, as Chinley Churn (for cairn, one existing on its summit), 1-193 ft., and Dympus, 1633 ft. Dympus is the best worth ascending, as the scenery on the N. side is broken and bold, looking down on tlie head of Edale and the escarpment of Kinder- scout. Hayfield is 5 m. distant, whence Kinderscout top may be reached by a 4 m. walk (Rte. 9). [The Midland Rly. from here to Manchester keeps to the N. and E. of the London and North-Western Rly., and has four stats, in the course of its route before it quits the county. These are CMnley (3 m. from Chapel-eu-le-Frith), Bugsworth (4 m.), New Mills (8 m.), and Strines (91 m.). Chinley Churn at first separates the two lines, and after- wards they traverse the opposite sides of the valley of the Goyt. At Mellor (2 m. E. of Marple Stat.) the Ch., has a Norm, font curiously carved and an old pulpit cut out of the solid oak. For the remainder of the route, see Handbook for Cheshire and Lancashire. A branch of the Mid- land Rly. from Chinley will shortly be opened through the Peak District^ joining the Chesterfield and Shef- field line at Dore, having Stats, at Edale, Hope, Hathersage, and Grindleford.] Soon after leaving Chapel-en-le- Frith en route for Stockport, the Lon- don and North- Western Rly. passes on N. a large reservoir supplied by streams from Comb's Moss. At the farther end, close to the rly., is the hamlet of Tunstead, where Brindley, the engineer, was born (1716), and where the skull of "Dicky of Tun- stead " is religiously kept, and has a reputation of possessing extraordi- nary and ghostly powers. Above the reservoir, under Eccles Pike (1225 ft.), is Bradshaw Hall, once the seat of the Bradshaw fiimily, who were seated here soon after the Conquest. John Bradshaw, who sat as President of the High Court of Justice, was either brother or cousin of the builder of the Hall, Francis Bradshaw, whose name, arms, and the date 1620, appear on the gateways. It is now occupied as a farmhouse. On one of the landings in the interior is the following inscription : — " Love God and not gould. lie that loves not mercy, Of mercy shall miss; But he shall have mercy That merciful is." 9 m. On S. is the Roosdych, which it is presumed served the purpose of a racecourse. " It is an artificially formed valley, averaging in widtu 40 paces, and 1300 paces in length. It is in a great measure cut out of E 2 52 Route 8. — Chapel-en-le-Frith to Bakewell. the side of a hill, to a depth of from 10 to 30 feet, but, where it is most so, it is enclosed on both sides \Yith banks of earth." The Rly. crosses the Goyt shortly after, and enters Cheshire, to 9| m. Whaley Bridge. The re- mainder of the route to Manchester (14| m.) will be found fully described in tlie Handhooh for Cheshire and Lancashire. ROUTE 8. CHAPEL-EN-LE-FRITH TO BAKE- WELL, BY CASTLETON, HOPE, HATHERSAGE, AND EYAM [THE PEAK]. BY KOAD. 23 m. There are two roads from Chaiiel- en-le-Frith to Castleton. The more northerly, over Eushup Edge, is rather the shorter, but presents no feature of interest; the one by Barmoor Clough and Sparrow Pit is to be preferred. The Midland Ely. will shortly open a line through the Peak District from Chinley Stat. (3 m. from Chapel-en-le-Frith on tlie main line to Mancliester) to Dore Stat, (on the line to SheflSeld), with Stats, at Edale, Hope, Hather- sage, and Grindleford. Owing to the nature of the ground the work of the construction is very heavy. There will be a tunnel 3J m. long under Totley Moor, and another of 2J m. under the high ground of the Peak. [From Sparrow Pit is a road to Tideswell (C m. S.E.) (Rte. G), pass- ing through the small village of Peak Forest, the little chapel of which was once a place of much re- Bort fur c'a'idcstiue marriages. Peak Forest (Stat.) on the Midla-id Ely. is 3 ra. S.W.] The way to Castleton lies over pleasant breezy moors, varied only by an occasional clump of trees, a solitary farmhouse, or a wooden gin proclaiming the presence of a lead- mine. At Perryfoot, 3| m., is one of the water-swallows so character- istic of this part of Derbyshire. The interest, however, is much in- creased by the fact that the stream, which here disaji pears, has an under- ground course as far as the Peak Cavern at Castleton, where it again emerges. A little beyond Perry- foot the tourist should turn off to the rt. and ascend Eldon Hill, on the furthest side of which, overlook- ing Peak Forest, is the famous Eldon Hole, concerning which more absur- dities have been written than about any other cave in the kingdom. It is simply a very deep perpendicular cave, " wonderful for nothing but the vast bigness, steepness, and depth of it. But that winds have their vent here is a mistake in those that have writ so ; nor are those verses of Necham's, concerning the miracles of England, applicable to it:— " ' Est specus .^oliis ventis obnoxia semper Impetus e gemino maximus ore venit. Cogitur injectum velameu adire supernas Partes, descensum impedit aura poteus.' " Sir Aston Cockayne, of Ashbourne, also wrote as follows in 1658 : — " Here on an hill's side steep Is Elden Hole, so dcpe, Tliat no man living knowes How far it hollow goes." At 4j m., near Surlslow, a foot road on rt. leads to the Hazard Mine, and on to Castleton, through Cave Dale (post). The road, wliich has been gradu- ally rising, now zigzags down the side of Mam Tor (the Mother Hill), 1709 ft. high, and on many accounts l)erhaps Ihe niOkt interesting hill in Eonfe P,.—Casflefon : Peak CafifJe. 53 the Peiik. The tourist should pause to ndmire the view of the beautiful and fertile A'ule of Hope, which now opens below him, framed in a setting of hills, among which may be named, beside Mam Tor, Lose Hill, and Win Hill, the range tliat separates the Valley of Hope from that of Edale (see 2^ost). Drawing near to Castleton, the Vale of the Winnats or Windgates, once the only coach road from Bux- ton, is entered. It is a magnificent pass, about § a mile in length, the mountain limestone cliifs rising in fantastic forms to the height of about 400 ft. on either side. Very few are the days in the year in which there is not a piercing wind through the defile, which has thus obtained its name. Tiie view of Castleton and the vale is wondrously pretty. At the bottom of the pass, which has a melancholy reputation for the foul murder of a couple on their wedding tour, is a cottage, the entrance to the Speedwell Mine (post). 6| m. $ Castleton, a village in the centre of the Peak district, and the head-quarters of all that is curious in mine and cavern. It is situated in a cul de sdc, opening into the Valley of Hope, the sides of which are formed of more or less precipitous hills, rising iu the S. directly from the village in ma^ificent clifls, while, on the W. and N., the more distant escarp- ments of Mam Tor, Bach Tor, and Lose Hill contribute to form the amphitheatre. Two or three small streams, such as the Odin Sitch and the Peak's Hole Water, issuing from the caves and mines of those names, run down the valley to join the Noc at Hope. Castleton has from the earliest times enjoyed a celebrity from its extensive and beautiful caves, which have been the foundation for many an absurd stretch of ima''inatii'n, commencing with " Gervasius Tilburiensis, who, either out of downright ignorance or a lying humour, tells us a shepherd saw, in the Peak cavern, a spacious country, with small rivers running here and there in it, with vast pools of standing water." Local antiquities have here a more persistent habitation than is generally found in Derbyshire ; Castleton abounding with associa- tions of the Peveril family, whoso memory has been for ever embodied by Sir Walter Scott, altliough the existence of any one bearing that name in the 17th centy. is a pure fiction of the novelist. The Church, which belonged to the Abbey of Vale Royal in Cheshire, has been much modernised. It is a plain building of mixed styles, with tower at the W. end, siumounttd by pinnacles. Internally the visitor should notice a beautiful Norman chancel arch with billet-moulding, an old octagonal font, a modern E. window of stained glass in memory of a late vicar, and some very inte- resting carved oak pews of the 17th centy. There is a tablet to Mawe, the mineralogist, and a monument to an attorney (Micah Hall, d. 1804), with the churlish epitaph — "Quid eram, nescitis, Quid sum, nescitis, Ubi abii, nescitis. Viile." The library in the vestry, a legacy from a former vicar to the parisii, contains a black-letter Bible, date 1539, and a " Breeches Bible." Several eld customs linger yet in Castleton, such as ringing the cur- few from the 21)th Sept. to Shrove Tuesday, and the placing of a gar- land on one of the pinnacles of the tower by the ringers on the '29th of May, and there leaving it till the following year. > The Peak Castle crowns the summit of the clitis directly to tiie S. of the village. It was built by 8i Boute 8. — Cnstlefon : Peal- Cavern. William Peveril, to whom the Con- queror granted large estates in Derbyshire, " upon the principles on •which an eagle selects her eyrie, and in such a fashion as if he had intended it, as an Irishman said of the Martello toM'ers, for the sole purpose of puzzling posterity." But little is left of it save the keep, which was at the S.W. angle of the enclosure, overlooking the deep cleft above the Peak cavern, being, of course, perfectly inaccessible on this side. Two towers, now nearly de- stroyed, flanked the E. and W. angles, and were probably erected to command the N. passage up to the castle, which consists of a series of zigzags. The keep is a plain triangular tower, the walls of which are about 8 ft. in thickness. The ashlar work of a portion of the walls is said to have been taken away to repair the Ch. at Castletou. The castle enclosure was surrounded by a curtain wall, now dilapidated. The entrance-gate was on the E. side. The interior of the keep was occupied by 2 apartments, the lower one of which was reached by flights of steps from the outside, and the upper (according to King) by a platform attached to the outer wall. This latter contains a canopied recess. The erection of " the Castel of Pt-ke " may be ascribed to the Norman age, though it is not im- possible, from its extraordinary ad- vantages of position, that a fortress of some sort occupied the ground previously. Although built and held for some time by the descend- ants of Peveril, the castle afterwards reverted to Henry II. The barons obtained possession in the reign of John, but had soon to yield it to Ferrers, Earl of Derby, who took it by assault. In the time of Edward lil. it became a part of the Duchy of Lancaster. The Peverils are said by tradition to have lived in great style here, and to have held a splen- did tournauient in the castle-yard ; but the circumscribed area, and the general want of accommodation in the buildings, forbid the notion that it was anytliing but a temporary residence or a convenient prison. " In the time of Henry IV. Godfrey Eowland, a poor and simple squire of the county of Derby, petitioned the Parliament against the injuries that had been inflicted on him by Thomas Wandesby, Chivaler (see Bakewell, Rte. 6) and others, who came and besieged his house at Mickel-Longsdon, and, having pil- laged the same, carried him off to the Castle of the High Peak, where they kept him six days without meat or drink, and then, cutting off his right hand, sent him adrift." The botanist will iind a harvest of ferns on the surrounding rocks, the maidenhair, spleenwort, and cys- topteris being all tolerably plentiful on the grassy hills over the Speed- well and other mines; while Cave Dale produces the rare green spleen- wort, not yet quite extirpated by the traders in ferns, and is also rich in mosses, including the Bryum dendroides. The caverns and mines at Castle- ton and its immediate neighbour- hood consist of — 1, the Peak Cavern; 2, Speedwell Level ; 3, Blue John Mine ; 4, Odin Mine ; and, 5, Brad- well Cavern. The payments de- manded for visiting most of these are extortionate, and ought to be resisted. (1.) The largest and most im- portant is the Peak or Devil's Cavern, the entrance to which is about 100 yds. from the village, and imme- diately under the precipice on which is the Peak Castle. From it issues a clear running stream, which has its source at Perryfoot (imte), and, after a long subterranean course, is found again in the Peak Cavern, many parts of which, by the way, are inaccessible after heavy rains. The entiance to the cave is in itself Rnnff 8. — Cmfflefnn : Speedioell Cavern. 55 one of the most striking scenes. The large shelving and over-arched plat- form leading into the interior re- cesses has been used from time im- memorial, as the workshop of the twine and rope spinning, which is one of the industries of the village. As seen when emerging from the inner cave, the gaunt and weird- looking machinery, the figures flit- ting to and fro, combined with the reverberation of their songs and exclamations, and the peculiar ghastliness of the light, have a grotesqueness and wildness pecu- liarly striking, although some may prefer undisturbed solitude. As the visitor cannot see the cave without the services of the guide, it will be sufficient to point out its leading features. Soon after passing through the door at the extreme end of the entrance hall, he arrives at the First Water, across which he was formerly obliged to be ferried in a little boat under a very low arch, so as to reach the great cavern. This has, however, been rendi^red unnecessary by blasting, and the formation of a path by the side of the river. The Great Hall is said to be 120 ft. in height, and is tra- versed by a pathway of steps leading to the Second Water. At the far- ther end of this is a series of detached rooks, the trickling of water down which has procured for it the name of Roger Rain's House. Next comes the chancel, marked by a gallery, accessible by a rough path. Here a number of lighted candles are pre- pared, which well show oft" the di- mensions and general contour of this part of the cavern ; and if due notice be given, a choir of singers may be stationed to add to the effect. The Devil's Cellar and the Halfway House are successively reached ; and a passage thence, containing some natural groined arches, leads to the Great Tom of Lincoln or the Victoria C!;ivern, where a light is run up by a pulley to show the Immense height and hollow of the dome. From thlg point the vault gradually lowers until there is only sufficient space for the stream to flow ; the total length of the cave is estimated at 2300 ft. The fee is 2s. for a single person, but proportionately less for a party. (2.) The Speedwell Cavern is about h m. from Castleton on the old Buxton road, close to the entrance of the Winnats. It is reached by what is in reality a dis- used mine, commenced about a cen- tury ago by some Staffordshire adventurers, who, after vainly work- ing it for 11 years, acknowledged the uselessnf ss of proceeding farther. The visitor descends by a flight of over 100 steps to the level or canal, along which he is taken in a boat propelled by means of pegs in the rock. This passage of 750 yds. was blasted through the solid rock, which is of great hardness, the quantity of jjowder used is said to have been above 50,000 lbs. The level then opens into the Great Hall, a natural cavern, the size of which is such as to make the roof and bottom invisible to the eye ; indeed, rockets have been sent up to the height of 450 ft. without reaching the former. The level is carried by an arch across this chasm ; but the boat is left here, and a platform ascended, from which the scene can be viewed at leisure. Water is reached at a depth of 90 ft. ; and from the fact of an amazing quantity of rubbisli having been apparently swallowed up, it is popu- larly considered to be unfathomable. The probability is, that the de'bris was cariied away as soon as deijosit- ed by the running stream. The usual etfects of blue lights and powder blastings arc displayed " for a consideration." * (3.) The Blue John Mine is situ- 56 Ro7de 8. — Castleton : Mavi Tor. ated on the side of the Tray cliff, a little to the 1. of the turnpike- road to Buxton. The mine is still worked, but the yield is decreasing every year. In this cave, ; which runs for about 3 m., and doubtless communicates with the rest of the system of caverns, the principal at- tractions are the masses of stalactite, which are to be seen in great per- fection. Notice particularly the one called the Organ, near the entrance. The principal chambers here are Lord Mulgrave's Dining-room, in which that nobleman (who laboured hard to explore the mine, passing 3 days in it at one time) entertained the miners ; the Variegated Cavern ; and the Crystulized Cavern, the beauties of which are always shown by additional lights. Blue John or Derbyshire spar is fluoride of cal- cium ; the blue colouring matter which distinguishes it and makes it in such request for vases and orna- mental art, being oxide of man- ganese. The largest vase ever made of it is to be seen at Chatsworth. " Tray cliff is the only locality where Blue John is met with. It lies in 'pipe-veins,' having the same inclination as the rocks which the veins traverse. One of these veins lies in a sort of clayey stratum, and another seems to be imbedded in the nodule state in a mass of in- durated debris. Besides these the whole of the limestone masses are fractured and cracked ; and in ad- dition to the pipes, the sides of tlie crusting are lined witii beautiful sky-l)lue cubes of fluor and rhombic crystals of calcite." — Taylor. Small portions, however, of Blue John (not large enough to be worked) are found in other parts of the county. The geologist will find in Tray cliif (lower beds) numbers of Pliil- liima. (4.) The Odin Mine is a little fartlier on the rt. of the same roar), Jit the foot of IMam Tor. It is believed that lead was worked here during the Koman era, and pigs of this material, found in Derbyshire, are to be seen in the British Museum inscribed with the names of the Emperors Domitian and Hadrian. Horizontal galleries have been driven for about a mile into this mine, the lower one being for the purpose of draining it ; but after inspecting the foregoing caverns it is scarcely worth exploration. It produces elastic bitumen. (5.) Bagshaw's Cave, at Bradwell, lies 2 m. S.E. of Castleton, to the rt. of the road to Hope, and on the edge of Abney Moor. This is worth a visit on account of its stalactites. Cave Dale is a remarkable cleft in the rocks to the E. of Peak Castle, something like the Winnats on a small scale. From it one of the best views of the castle is obtained. A road leads up it to the Hazard IMine, and across the moor, to join the Buxton road. The geologist should not fail to visit Mam Tor. On the N. side it is easy of ascent, grassy, smiling, and tempting; whilst towards the Castleton valley it presents a preci- pitous escarjDment of coal-measure shale and sandstone, containing much oxide of iron. Atmospheric effects, particularly after frost and rain, cause constant disintegration of tlie strata, the falling of which has given it the name of the Shiver- The summit IS ing Mountain occupied by the remains of an early intronchment. The geologist will find Goniatites cxpansns among the shales at the base, together with Avicuhpecten and pondom'a. The view from Mam Tor is very charm- ing, particularly looking E. towards Hope ; and on the N., over Edale, to Kinderscout. If the tourist has time, he should descend into the valley opposite Edale Chapel, and (f- (inder- from ''whole ^. nding ^Edale <^ilfc in '"Uiread ;;ave to and / Edale i ,. icre it '^-ith a jwniiig f pro- les out n Tor, || ;ludcd ad the iitloton ytham V THE PEAK DISTRICT Loniiinn. Jnlm MDrcar.-^ '">■■■>■'''" SlTooI Bonte S.—Cof!flpfon : Tip. Peal!. 57 follow it down between Lose and Win Hills (properly Laws and Whin Hills) to Hope; abont (J m. If on his road northward, ho shonld pro- ceed up the valley, and, crossing the neck at Edalo Cross, descend to Hayfield (Kte. 9). THE PEAK. In the country north of Castleton are situated the highest and most mountainous ridges of the coimty, the deepest valleys, and the wildest moorlands. It is a tract entirely of gritstone, belonging to the lower series of the carboniferous for- mation. Of limestone, whicli has so exclusive a predominance south of Castleton, there is absolutely none, and this difference of geologi- cal character produces a marked difference in the scenery. Instead of green grass, the hills are covereil with purple heather. Instead of white rocks forming the basement of sloping uplands, the rocks are here quite black, and crown the summit of ridges that descend with a concave sweep into the valleys. The great block of mountain called in the Ordnance Slap " the Peak," is really an extensive plateau com- prising the several summits of Kinderscout, the Edge, Fairbrook Naze, Ashop Moor, Seal Edge, Mad- woman's Stones, Edale Moor, &c. Kinderscout, 1981 ft., is the highest and most important of them all, and gives its name to the whole block. From the escarped nature of its sides, numorou.s romantic little ravines, or "doughs," as they are locally called, are to be foinid, particidarly on the S., overlooking Edale, and on the W., ovc-r Hayfield. It is the more picturcs rgreen glades and gardens, chiefly compiled of coni- ferae, and for tne artilicial lake and rockerie.-, carried out for tiie 5 h Earl of Harrington (1851-1802), by an eminent gardener and tians- planter of trees, Mr. Barron, whose nursery is near tiie stat. Tlie mansion is domestic Gothic. The drawii:g-room is furnislied with splendid crimson hangings, pre- sented by the King of Spain to a former Earl. There is also a small collection of pictures by Kneller, Lely, C. Jansen, Reynolds, N. Ber- ghem, &c. The avenues by which the castle is approached from the S. and E. are all the more conspicuous, as the immediate neighbourhood is iiat and uninviting. The gardens are laid out in various styles, the most remarkable being the yew- garden ; many of the trees were transported lull-grown from long dis- tances. Mr. Barron's chief exploit is an artificial lake with rocky islands and shores, fringed with beautiful shrubs and trees. At Elvaston was born Walter Blunt, created by Edward IV., in 14G5, Baron of Montjoy, "whose pos- terity have equalled the glory of their descent and family by the orna- ments of learning." In the Cli., which is Perp., with lofty lower, are a curved oak screen, and monuments of the 15th centy. to the Stanhopes, 66 Bouie 10. — Draycott — Goiliam. also modem ones and painted windows to the Earls of Harrington. "In 1643 Sir John Gell with tlie Parliamentary forces attacked and plundered Elvi^stou. Lady Stan- hope had recently ereittd, at an exjiense of 600?., a rich nltar-tomb to her husband, but such was the per.-onal and political hatred of the Koundliead knight against his la'e stout opponent, that he proceeded to the Ch., mutilati d the e£6gy,and then wantonly destroyed Lady Stan- hope s fiivourite flower-garden. Nor did his revenge stop here — for he married the lady, with the express purp. 'se of ' destroying the glory of her husband and his house.'" — Burke. 2 m. to the S.E. of Elvastou, where the Derby and Loughborough road crosses the TreT;t at Cavendish Biidge, is Shardlow Hall (E. Sutton, Esq.), a 16th-centy. Louse, modern- ised. On N., 1 and 2 m., are Draycott Hall, the property of Earl of Har- rington, and Hopwell Hall (E. H. Pares, Esq.). 6| m. Draycott (Stat.). Here are the great cotton and lace factories of the Messrs. Towle. 7J m. Sawley (Stat.). The village is more than 1 m. to the S.E., on the bank of the Trent. The early Dec. Ch., restored in 1889, has a good Perp. tower and spire. The chancel arch and some herring-bone work are the remains of a Saxun Ch. erected prior to a.d. 822. It contains a massive oak screen of Perp. work- manship ; some solid oak benches of Elizabethan date; a fine Jacobean pulpit bearing the date 1636 ; and a curious stone screen probably 400 years old. At Wilne, 1 m. E., the Cb. of St. Chad contains an old Saxon font with curious carvings. Much nearer to the stat. is the village of Breaston, where the great industry is warp net-making. 8^ m. Sawley (Junct. Stat.). 9^ m. TEENT Junction Stat., where this branch joins the Midland main line (Rte. 2). The views of the Trent, as the line passes towards Nottingham, are very pleasant. The river here dividts Derby from Notts, and is joint d by the Soar, which separates Notts from Leicester. Tlirumpton Hall, on S., is the seat of Lady Byron. From this point the line takes the vale of the Trent on its 1. bank as far as Newark, thence on its rt. bank to Langford, and afterwards nearly follows the course of the old Fosse "Way to Lincoln. At 10 m. the Erewash is crossed, near its junction with the Trent. lljm. Attenl)orough(Stat.). On S. is the Church, with tower and spire. It contains several fine monu- ments to the Babingtons, Nevilles, and Leakes. In a house on one side of the churchyard was born in 1611 Henry Ireton, the regicide, and son- in-law of Cromwell. N. of the line is CMlwell, where is ChilwellHall (N. J, Charlton, Esq.). At a short distance W. is a ferry, which leads to Barton in Fabis, or Barton in the Beans, where a tesselated pa\ement can be seen in the vicarage farmyard, while some remains of fortification on Brent's Hill point to the former site of a Eoman town. 2 m. S.E. of Barton is the village of Gotham, pleasantly situated in a valley, and with a handsome Ch. Its chief industry is mining plaster, a kind of inferior alabaster from the surrounding hills, but it is better known for its " Wise Men," the story of whom is thus told by Thoroton, the county historian ; as in similar tales about other places, the simplicity was only affected. "King John, passing tlirough the place towards Nottingham, and in- tending to go through the meadows, was prevented by the villagers, who apprehended that the ground over which a King had passed would for Boute 10. — Beeston — Nottingham. 67 ever become a public road. The King, incensed at their proceedings, sent some of his servants to inquire of them the reason of their incivility, that he might punisli them by way of fine or any other way he thought proper. The villagers, hearing of the approach of the King's servants, thought of an expedient to turn away his Majesty's displeasure. AVhen the messengers arrived, they found some of the inhabitants engaged in endea- vouring to drown an eel ; some were employed in di'agging carts on to the top of a barn to shade the wood from the sua ; others were tumbling their cheeses down the hill to find their way to Nottingham ; and some were engaged in hedging in a cuckoo which had perched upon a bush : in short, they were all employed in some foolish way [or other, whence arose the old adage, ' The wise men (or fools) of Gotham.' " According to local tradition, their great exploit was the planting the hedge to keep in the cuckoo, and a spot on a neighbouring hill, supposed to liave been the scene, is still called Cuchoo Bush. 13 m. Beeston (Stat.). The vil- lage, a short distance N., is a busy place, having a silk mill (its prede- cessor was burnt by the rioters from Nottingham in 1831), lace machines, and stocking frames. Tlie Ch. was rebuilt in 18-14, except the chancel, which has since been added. There is a fine carved stone reredos, erected in 1880. On the opposite side of the Trent, 4 m. from Nottingham, lies Clifton. The Hall is the ancient residence of the Cliftons, a distin- guished Nottinghamshire family. The church contains some 15th and 16th-centy. monuments and hragses of the Cliftons, There is a fine avenue of trees, 2 m. in length, called Clifton Grove, the scene of Kirke Wbite's poem of that name. At Wilford, IJ m. N.E., was for- merly a ferry to Nottingham, now re- placed by a bridge, which, mainly owing its completion after long delay to the liberality of the late Sir R. J. Clifton, M.P., is commonly known as " Sir Eobert's Bridge." 1| m. S.E. from Clifton is Ruddington, a busy village of stocking - weavers, or " stockingers," as they are locally termed. At a short distance E. is a deserted churchyard, the only vestige of a town called Flawforth, that once stood there. The Ch. having fallen into decay was pulled down in 1773, and part of the stone was used to build a bridge over the neighbouring stream, called Fair- brook. Euddington Grange (T. I. Bhkin, Esq.). The rly. is carried along the base of the steep rock on which stands the remains of the Castle, and reaches at 15f m. $ NOTTINGHAM (2 central Stats.). The county town, noted for the manufacture of lace and hosiery, is situated nearly in the centre of England, on a rocky height a little to the N. of " The bounteous Trent ,that in herself en- seams Both thirty sorts of fish and thirty sundry streams," and overlooking its rich valley. The old part of the town is a mass of mean streets, mostly crooked and narrow ; and from its sloping site many of the houses rise tier upon tier one behind the other. This slope faces the S., Nottingham being sheltered from the N. by a range of high ground separating it from the district of Sherwood Forest, which in old times " supplied it with great store of wood for lire (though many burn pit-coal, the smell whereof is oflensive), while on the other side, the Trent serves it with fish very plentifully." Hence this barbarous verse : — " Limpida sylva focum, Trigint* dat mihi piscem." — Ciunden. F 2 68 Boute 10. — NoUingliam : Castle. The lower portion is ■watered bj-^ the Leue, a stream from Sherwood Forest, which runs from the N., and soon joins the Trent. But of late years, since the restriction of building on the Lammas lands has been re- moved, the town has greatly ex- tended, and with very great im- provement in tlie style of building. Several of the old streets have also been widened or swept away, and the new houses in the Market-place, the Post Office, the School of Art, the High School, and the University College, and several of the more recent factories, are favourable specimens of provincial architecture. Perliaps the most characteristic feature of Nottingham is its Market- place, considered to be the largest in the kingdom. It is an open area of 5J acres, nearly in the form of an acute-angled triangle, terminated at the E. end or base by the Ex- change, a massive building, of slight architectural pretensions. There is a North and a South Parade, con- sisting mainly 'of handsome houses of early 18th-centy. date, the upper stories resting on pillars forming a covered walk. This is the spot that the " Nottingham Lambs " have rendered notorious in electioneering annals; and even now on market- days, and at the October goose-fair (" the English carnival," it has been styled) the scene is sufficiently lively. It was by a " Goose-fair mob " that Nottingham Castle was burnt in 1831. Indeed in former times the working classes here were noted for their turbulent spirit, as shown in their sympathy with the lirst French revolution, and their share in the Luddite outrages of 1811-12. Nottingham was seized by the Northmen in 868, and held by them till 924, when they were dispossessed by Edward the Elder, who also built a bridge over the Trent that con- tinued in use till lute in the 17th centy. The old CASTLE was built by William the Norman, who bestowed it on William Peveril. It occupied a most commanding position on a precipitous rock, 130 ft. high, over- looking the town, and having the river Lene flowing at its foot. Standing nearly in the centre of the kingdom, this Castle was for many ages one of the most important for- tresses in England, and was the scene of many momentous historical events. It was assailed in vain in the wars in the time of Stephen and of King John, so as to gain the name of im- pregnable, and it was a frequent royal residence: as also a prison, David II. of Scotland, Owen, the son of Owen Glyndwr, young Ho- tham, and many others being men- tioned as confined there. It was held for some years for the Parliament by Colonel Hutchinson, and at his in- stance in 1651 it was " slighted,' or reduced to ruin, lest, as Mrs. Hutch- inson informs us, it might be seized by Cromwell, whose designs of abso- lute power he had penetrated. After the Kestoration the site was granted to the Duke of Buckingham, who soon sold it to the old Royalist general, the first Duke of Newcastle. He, though almost 80 years of age, proceeded to build a new castle on the same site, which is said to have been designed by Sir Christo- pher Wren, in a heavy Italian style of architecture. The building was burnt by the mob in broad day during the riots in October, 1831, because its owner, the Duke of Newcastle, had distinguished himself by his opposition to the Eeform Bill. The sum of 21,000/. was paid by the Hundred to the Duke as compensation, but, from threats of further mischief, he de- clined to rebuild it. The remains of the old castle are very small, comprising a Norm, gakhuuse, to which some injudicious modem ad- ditions have been made, and a bas- tion facing Castle Gate. In 1878 NOTTINGHAM 5-:N.R. jatiorv Jfalktr &-r-cuttin Si TofMepage 63. Boute 10. — Noftiufiliam .' Caxfle. 69 the Castle was takeu ou a lease of 500 years from the Duke of New- castle's Trustees by the Town Coun- cil, and fitted up as a Museum and Art GaJIenj, where there is always on view a good collection of pic- tures, and of objects of Art, also a valuable collection of classical an- tiquities presented by Lord Savile, K.C.B. They were discovered by his lordship on the site of the Temple of Diana, on the shores of Lake Nemi, during the time he was the British Ambassador at Eome. It is open daily, except Sunday, from 10 A.M. till 9 P.M. in the summer, but in the winter closes at 4 p.m. on Wednesdays and Fridays. The grounds also are well laid oiit, and will be found worth a visit on ac- count of the beautiful view which the terrace commands over the plain of Trent, the town, the canal, and rlys. close at hand, the river ap- pearing here and there in its windings, the groves of Clifton beyond it, and in the distance the Hall of Wollaton and Castle of Belvoir. The platform ou which the Castle stands is undermined with excava- tions extending in all directions, and It is probable that Mortimer's Hole, which is 107 yards in length, aiforded a direct communication from the castle with the river below. It is a singular excavation, de- scending through the sandstone rock from the castle platform nearly to the level of tlie river, lighted by openings in the face of the cliif, and showing the marks of gates and stockades to bar the passage through it. It is of considerable antiquity, at least as old as the 14th centy. ; and through a secret branch of it, which led to the keep, the young King Edward III., aided by Sir William EUand, Sir William Monta- cute and other followers, entering the castle by night, surprised Morti- mer Earl of March, the paramour of the Queen his mother, on 19th October, 1330. Mortimer was seized in spite of the Queen's cries and entreaties, sent to London, and executed, " for betraying his country to the Scots for money, and for otlier mischiefs, out of an extrava- gant and vast imagination designed by him." On the slope of the hill to the N. of the castle, between it and the old Infirmary, on the spot where is now the street called Standard Hill, King Charles I. first unfurled the royal standard 1642, having pre- viously summoned all good subjects able to bear arms to attend. This important event is thus described by Clarendon : — " According to pro- clamation, upon the 25th day of August, the standard was erected about 6 of the clock of a very stormy and tempestuous day. The King himself, with a small train, rode to the top of the Castle Hill; Varney, the Knight Marshal, who was standard-bearer, carrying the standard, which was then erected on that place, with little other cere- mony than the sound of trumpets and drums. Melancholy men ob- served many ill presages about that time. The standard was blown down the same night that it had been set up, by a very strong and unruly wind, and could not be fixed again in a day or two, till the tempest was allayed." Though the Castle was in the king's hands at the beginning of the war, it had not sufficient garrison, and was soon occupied by the Par- liament, when Colonel Hutchinson (whose wife's ' Memoirs ' add so much interest to the story) was appointed its governor. He held the place bravely and successfully against all attacks, withstanding otiers of biibery, from 1642 to 1645. Marshal Tallard and other French officers, taken prisoners at the Cattle of Blenheim, resided on parole in the Castle and some adjoining houses 70 Route 10. — Nottingham : Cemeteries. in Castle Gate, -where they amused themselves with gardening. The New Eed sandstone rock on which the town and castle stand, stretching "W. in the form of a low cliff along the canal through the park, is of a soft texture, easily cut, and has in consequence been per- forated in very early times with caves, used as cellars and store- houses, while some till very lately served for human habitations. Such caves were probably the most ancient dwellings on this spot, and gave rise to the town. " The name of Nottingham is nothing but a soft contraction of the Saxon word Snottengaham, so called by the Saxons from the caves and passages under ground, which the ancients for their retreat and habitation mined under the steep rocks of the south parts, toward the river Lind [Lene], whence it is that assertion renders the Saxon word Snotten- liam, speluncarum domum, and in the British language it is ' tui ogo hanc,' which signifies the same thing, viz. ' The House of Dens.' " — Leering, The Rock Holes, vulgarly called Papist Holes, to the W. of the Castle, in the grounds of J. W. Leavers, Esq., J.P., are a series of such cavities, undoubtedly once used as dwellings. There are traces of stairs, of a chapel, of mortise-holes for timbers, designed to form what is called a " lean-to roof," and one chamber is penetrated with small pigeon-holes, in order to serve as a dovecote. Visitors are allowed to inspect these dwellings on presen- tation of their visiting cards. Sneinton Hermitage, in the suburb of that name at the opposite side of Nottingham, is a low cliff of sand- stone facing the Trent, pierced and excavated to form chambers for the houses built again,st the side of the rock. Some of them are very old, and many have neat hanging gardens on the shelves of the rock. Here are tea-gardens, much re- sorted to by the operatives in the summer time. Within the last twenty years several busy suburbs to Nottingham have been erected, uniting the town to the neighbouring villages of Basford, Eadford, Lenton, and Sneinton. By the 'Nottingham Borough Extension Act,' which came into force in 1877, the boun- daries were extended so as to in- clude the suburbs ; and the total area of the borough is now 15| square miles. The Lammas Lands formerly preserved an open space in every direction, and thus caused tiiese manufacturing villages to be placed at a distance of 1 or 2 m. ; but in 1845 an Act was passed, which allowed of building leases of the Lammas Lands, and now streets and factories almost cover them. As some counterpoise, various portions are laid out as recreation grounds. The Arboretum, in Waverley Street, on the N. side of the town, a tract of 19 acres, is one of these, in which is a pagoda, with its com- plement of Eussian guns, and statue of Feargus O'Connor. The so-called Forest is another ; it is merely a serpentine road with shubberies, near the racecourse. On the S. side is the Queen's Walk, a planted avenue, f m. long, leading to Wilfordbridge. The various Cemeteries also are ornamentally laid out, and in the Church Ceme- tery, on the IMansfield road, some of the cave-dwellings of old Nottingham are still to be seen, enlarged to serve as catacombs. Nottingham possesses one very handsome cruciform Perp. Church, of St. Mary, on the High Pavement, nearly in the centre of the town. The W. end, which had been " modernized," was well restored by Scott ; the S. porch, originally very Route 10. — Nofflngham : Churches. 71 rich, has lost its beauty from the corrosion of the stone by the weather. From the centre of the Ch. rise.s a fine tower of 2 stages, with a battle- ment and 8 crocketed pinnacles. The interior is lighted by a pro- fusion of wimlows of fine tracery, mostly filleil with stained glass. The E. window is a memorial to the Prince Consort ; and that at the W. end to Thomas Adams, a lace manufacturer. A handsome reredos and screen were erected in 1885. At the extremity of the transepts under the windows are 2 monumental niches, beautifidly or- namented with Perp. crockets and foliage; the one in the S. has an effigy of a warrior. Tlie open timber roof is of good ornamental design ; and there is a fine piece of groining at the intersection of nave and transejjts. The chancel, beau- tifully restored, is ornamented by a very fine painting of the Virgin and Child by Fra Bartolommeo ; it was the gift of Mr. Wright, of Upton. In a glass case of the N. wall ofi" tlie cliancel is a curious group of alabaster figures, found under the chancel in the course of the restoration. The Rev. Joljn Whitelock, ejected by the Act of Uniformity, has his gravestone here (d. 1708). St. Peter's Ch., near the Market Place, is Perp., with tower and lofty spire, but has been very much altered and modernized. It has a good altar-piece by Barber, a native artist ; subject — the Agony in the Garden. It is now placed at the W. end of the Ch. St. Nicholas Ch., in Castle Gate, is a very plain brick strurtnre, built in 1671, in lieu of one pulled down by Colonel Hntchinson in 1643, as it commanded tiie plat- form of the Castle, " so that the men conld not play the ordnance without woolpacks before them ; and the bullets fell so thick into the outward castle-yard that they could not pass from one gate to the other, nor re- lieve the guards, but with very great hazards." — Mem. Col. Hutchinson, p. 177. There are numerous modern churches m Nottingham, and a large number of Dissenting chapels, but none calling for particular remark. The handsome Roman Catholic Cathedral by Pugin, dedicated to St. Barnabas, is on the Derby road ; it is cruciform, in the E. Eng. style, surmounted by a tower and spire 16-1 ft. high, and terminates at the E. end in a Lady Chapel. It con- tains a curved stone pulpit, and a chancel-screen of open work, flanked by figures of St. John an.l the Virgin. The altar is a single slab, resting on 6 pillars of Petworth marble. Behind it is the Lady Chapel, en the N. side St. Alkmund's, and on the S. the chapels of St. Thomas of Canter- bury and the Venerable Bede. In the crypt is St. Peter's Chapel, set apart tor masses for the dead. The windows are filled with stained glass ; the centre one, at the W. end, bears the arms of John Earl of Shrewsbury, who contributed liber- ally towards the building. The General Hospital is near the castle ; it was built in 1781, the sito being the joint contribution of the then Duke of Newcastle and the corporation of the town. Two wings were added in 18n5, one also in. 1871, and one in 1879. Tiiere are several other hospitals, and some almshouses, one of these latter, the Plnmtrii Hospital, being of the date of 1.392. The Lunatic Asylum stands N. of the town, on a hill commanding extensive views. The Post Office, a handsome building, is in Victoria-street, near the Market- place. In Shakespeare-st. is the TJniver- 72 Boufe 10. — Nottingham: Manufactures. sity College, a Gothic building, tlie front being composed of a lofty gable surnjounting three open arches, below a triplet of Dec. windows. It was erected in 1880-81 by the Cor- poration at a cost of 80,000Z., for the promotion of higher education, and the University E> tension Sclien e of the Uidversities of Oxford and Cam- bridge, and was ojiencd by the late Prin^'e Leopold in 1881. The east wing is occupied by the Free Li- braries, and in the we t wing is the Natural History Musiiun ; whilst in the central portion are clas-iooms, lecture theatre, &c., of tlie college ; in the rear of the building are the Technic.-d Schools. Not far from it stands the Guildhall, a handsome Renaissance building erected from the design of the late T. Veiitv in 1887 at the cost of 62,000Z. The School of Art, a handsome stone buildine:, is in Waveilev Street. The High School, tounded in 1513 by Dame Agnes Mellers. is a large building in Arboretum Street, and is well endowed. At the junction of Carrington- street and Castle Gate is the Walter Memorial, of the Eleanor - cross order, 50 ft. high. It is a drinking- fountaiu, with 2 medallion portraits of Jolni Walter, of Bearwood, who was long M.P. for Nottingham. It was erected in 1865, and presented to the town by his son. The low-lying parts of Notting- ham liave often .-uft'ered from flood?-, particularly in 1795, to which the obstruction ofiered to the free course of the river by the old Trent liridge greatly contributed. It was a struc- ture of 19 small arches, with a raised causeway and an embankment, and tliough usually said to have been built in 1GS3. contained some far older remains. In 1871 it was replaced by the New Trent Bridge, which is mainly of iron, having 3 arches over the river of 100 ft. each, beside land arches for towing-path, floods, &c. It is a very handsome structure, ornamented with polished granite pillars, and, with the approaches, is about 700 ft. in length. Tlie mariufactures of Nottingham, which are greatly promoted by the existence of coal at a distance of less than 2 m., consist of hosiery, silk, cotton, woollen, and lace. The Rev. William Lee, the inventor of the stocking-frame (1589), to which Not- tingham owes so much of its wealth, was a native of Calverton, in this county. Wluit led him to take up the matter is not certainly known, authorities diifering, but it appears that he thought so highly of his invention as to apply to Queen Elizabeth for a patent for a mono- poly of making stockings. Such a lecjue.-t being justly considered un- reasonable, Lee carried his process to France, where, after alternate suc- cesses and failures, he died, about 1610. He profited little by his in- vention in England, and not much more in France. It is not known where he is buried, and there is no memorial of him in his native place. In the town and its vicinity there are many manufactories of hosiery, machine lace, bobbins and their carriages, machinery, and ware- liouses for lace - dressing. The stranger at Nottingham should not neglect to see the process of making bobbin-net, " which may be said to surpass most other branches of me- chanical ingenuity in the complexity of its machinery ; one of Fisher's spotting-frames being as much be- yond the most curious chronometer in multiplicity of device, as that is beyond a common roasting-jack." — Dr. lire. A bobbin-net machine consists of perhaps 10,000 pieces, bolfbins and carriages. These ma- chines have almost entirely super- seded hand-made lace. The Jacquard machine was applied to the bobbin-net machine in 1825, Route 10. — Nottingham: Wollaton Roll. 73 but, as far as producing patterns, "progressed slowly till 1841, when a plan was diacovered by Mr. Hooton Deveril for applying the Jacquard to the guide-bars ; and so rapid has been the adoption of this method since that time, that at the present period there is scarcely a fancy machine at work without it, either to the bars or along the machine." The process of " ga-sing lace" when made, in order to burn away the loose fibres, is aho well worth see- ing, the lace being passed over a series of gas flames, so as to singe away the filaments without injuring the net. Many thousand young girls receive employment as lace "menders" and dressers, in starching and folding tlie lace. (See Introd., p. [21].) The first cotton mill was erected at Nottingham, by James Har- greaves in 1767. The building is now a dwelling-house, at the junction of Mill-street and Wollaton-street. Nottingham was once famous for the skill of its workers in iron, who resided in Girdler Gate (now Pel- hal-street) and Bridksmith Gate ; hence the jingling lines — " The little smith of Nottingham, Who doth the work that no man can." In Bridlesmith's Gate are some old houses, one of them called King John's Palace. Another so-called palace of his existed in Bottle-lane, but Wiis destroyed when the new Post Office was built. A handsome carved oak doorway (15th centy.) removed from this building is pre- served in the Art Museum. Among eminent natives of Not- tingham may be named Col. Hutch- inson, Dr. Jebb the physician, Thomas and Paul Saudby, R.A., Dr. Kippis, Gilbert AVaketield, and Henry Kirke Wiiite. The house in the Shambles in which the last- named was bom has his portrait on its front, and his name has been given to a street in the Meadows, between the rly. and the river. In the neighbourhood of Not- tingham are several fine seats, as Holme Pierrepont, Viscount New- ark (Rte. 12), Colwick Hall, J. P. Chaworth-lNIusters, Esq. (Rte. 11). By far the finest is Wollaton Hall (Lord Middleton), 2i m. W., on the Derby road. This noble and most picturesque mansion is in the style of the Revival, and "a combination of regular columns, with ornaments neither Grecian nor Gothic, and half - embroidered with foliage, crammed over frontispieces, facades, and chimneys," but nevertheless highly picturesque. The architect was Jolin Thorpe (the architect of Burghley and Longleat), assisted by Smithson. The building is simple in its plan ; a square, surmounted by a massive centre, flanked at the cor- ners by bartizan turrets, surmount- ed by elegant balustrades. It oc- cupies the summit of an eminence in the midst of a noble park, abound- ing in aged timber, crossed by 4 stately avenues, and well stocked with deer. The grouping of the towers and turrets of the hall is in tlie highest degree picturesque. Other peculiarities of the exterior consist in the great extent of windows, the elegant scroll-work, and the grand porch. It was built 1580-88, by Sir Francis Willoughby, Kt. (according io Camden, " out of ostentation to show his riches "), of stone from An- raster, conveyed hither on horses' backs, in exchange for coals dug on the estate. The grand feature of the interior is the Hall, GO ft. long and CO ft. high, surmounted by a roof supported by ojien timber frames, elegantly carved, arranged in compartments. At one end is a richly carved screen, unfortunately disfigured by paint; tiie n-alls also have lost their panelling; j'et the effect of the whole, with its jiicturcs, stag.s' horns, &c., is truly baronial. 74 Route 11. — NottinrfJiam to Livcoln. In other parts of the house are some Dutch paintings : — Grace before Meat, by Hteraskerck ; a Flemish lady bargaining for jiro- visions, figures life-size ; Lions hunt- ing Deer, attributed to Rubens, and three large works representing a boar hunt by Snyders. There are some interesting family portraits of the Willoughbys : Sir F. \yillough- by, who built the house, and his Lady, by Zucchero; Sir Richard, Lord Chief Justice, and Sir Hugh, the navigator, who was frozen to death in the polar seas, 1553 ; also Francis, 2ud Lord Middleton, by Sir Joshua Reijnolds. The view from the cen- tral tower is extensive and beautiful, reaching to Belvoir Castle. The house is not shown, but its grand exterior is well seen from the road. It narrowly escaped the fate of Nottingham Castle in 1831, tlie rioters being beaten off with diffi- culty by the WoUaton troop of yeomanry. In Wollaton Church are monu- ments with effigies to Sir Richard Willoughby and his wife, l-lTl; and Sir Henry Willougliby, Knight Banneret, 1528. Bestwood Lodge (Duke of St. Albans) is a modern Gothic man- sion. It contains some fine works of art, including a Grecian statue, in a large conservatory attached to the house. ROUTE 11. NOTTINGHAM TO LINCOLN, BY NEWARK. MIDLAND RAILWAY. 33^ m. As far as Newark the line keeps on the 1. bank of the river Trent, com- mandingin many parts very beautiful views. Soon after quitting Notting- ham the rly. passes through the demesne of Colwick Hall, the pro- perty of J. P. Chawortli-Musters, Esq., whose ancestor obtained it from one of the Byrons early in tlie 17th centy., either by purchase or at the card-table. The house, by Carr of York, built 1776, occu- pies a very pleasing site near the Trent, backed by rocky cliflfa and hanging woods. The pleasure- grounds, which have been finely laid out, are now quite neglected. Colwick Hall was attacked, pillaged, and fired, by the brutal Nottin^hara mob of 1831. The terror produced by this violence, committed at night, drove the lady of the mansion into a plantation for concealment, and is supposed to have caused her death Feb. 5, 1832. Such was the melan- choly end of the beautiful " Mary Chaworth " of Byron's early poems, the ill-fated heiress of Annesley. The little Ch., whicli stands .on the la^vn, contains monuments to some of the Byron family ; also to Sophia Musters, died 1819. 3| m. Carlton and Gedling (Stat.). Here the G. N. Rly., Nottingham and Grantham line (Rte. 12), branches off to the rt. Carlton is a long straggling village, chiefly occupied in tlie hosiery trade. The Ch., of the Basilica type, erected by the lute Lord Carnarvon, is worth visiting. J m. N. is Gedling. The Ch., which has a fine lofty spire, has been well restored, and is very interesting. There is a curious early monument of a deacon in his vestments. Gedling Lodge is tbe property of the Earl of Carnarvon, and Gedling House (J. E. Burnside, Esq.) has very beautiful grounds. 5J m. Burton Joyce (Stat.), pro- perly Burton Jorz, from the family of De Georz, is close to the margin of the Trent, which in its course hither from Nottingham is characterized by a succession of weirs and osier- Borite 1 1 . — Lowdham—Bolleafon. 75 beds. The Ch., restored in 1879, has monuments of the Stapylton family, who held property here in . the reign of Edward VI., and a fine recumbent eflSgy of a De Georz. The spire is of a peculiar local type. 1^ m. N. is Lambley, once tlie scat of tlie Cromwells, the builders of Tattershall Castle and Ch. (see Handbook for Lincolnshire). The Ch. here has been partly rebuilt by the same hand. It retains its rood-screen, and on the N. of the chancel are the remains of a build- ing, once two-storied, apparently a sacristy with the abode of an an- chorite above it. 1 m. E. across the river is Shelford (see Rte. 12). 7§ m. Lowdham (Stat.). The re- stored Ch. has some 14th-centy. monuments of the Lowdham family, and a remarkable incised slab of a priest. The old manor-house, now a farm, stands E. of the Ch. ; and the foundations of an earlier fortified house may be traced. 1 m. N.E. is Gonalston, with a small E. E. Ch., of which the nave and tower have been rebuilt. It contains two altar- tombs with effigies of knights : — Richard de la Riviere, and John de Heriz, 1100, and a 14th-cent. one of a lady holding a reliquary, exquisitely sculptured. 2 m. W. is Wood- borough, which disputes with the neighbouringvillageof Calvertonthe honour of being the birthplace of Lee, the inventor of the stocking-frame (see Nottingham). Woodborough Ch. has a splendid Dec. chancel, the finest in this neiL^hbourhood. Calverton Ch. preserves in the belfry of its ISth-cent. tower some most curious sculptures, siipposod to be an Anglo-Saxon calendar of the months of the year. About 1 m. E. of Lowdliam the Dover- beck, a stream that rises in Sher- wood Forest, falls into the Trent. At Oxton, 4 m. up the stream, are 3 ^ remarkable tumuli. 10 m. Thurgarton (Stat.). The Priory (Bishop of Soutliwell), on the N., is built on the site of the Priory, founded by Walter de Ain- curt in the r2th centy. The Ch. pre- serves one of the \V. towers and 3 bays of the nave ; shorn of the tri- forium and clerestory. It has been restored, with the addition of a chancel and N. aisle. On the S., across the Trent, Kneeton Ch. is conspicuous from its fine situation. Nearer still is Hoveringham. The Ch. was mercilessly destroyed in 1867. The present brick one pre- serves a fine Norm, tympanum of St. Michael fighting the dragon, and recumbent effigies of Sir J. Goushill and his wife, who had been Duchess of Norfolk. Two fine Dec. windows are set up as ornaments in the garden of a private house, and other remains are at the Ferry Inn, 111 m. Bleasby (Stat.). The small Ch. was restored in 1869. • Bleasby Hall (R. Kelham, Esq.) is a large building with the embattled towers of the 16th centy. 13 m. Fiskerton (Stat.) is mainly noticeable for its well-frequented ferry across the Trent, leading to East Stoke, where took place (1487) the bloody conflict, known as the battle of Stoke or Stoke Field, the last fought between the rival Houses of York and Lancaster, in which it is computed 6000 were slain and the army of Henry VII. defeated the forces of the impostor Lambert Simnel, under the Earl of Lincoln. The Ch., which has a low ivy-clad tower, stands close to Stoke Hall (Sir II. Bromley, Bart.), a very stately mansion. 14 m. RoUeston Junct. Stat. Here the Southwell and Mansfield line (Rte. 14) branches off ta»the N.W. The village lies S. of the rly. on the bank of the Trent ; it has an E. E. Ch,, with a fine and peculiar Perp. 76 Boufr 1 1. — NeioarJe : Castle. tower. 1 m. N. is Upton Ch. The tower has a stone roof with a fifth pinnacle rising from the centre. 1 m. N.E. is Averham, the Ch. of wliich was well restored 1865. It has a good E. window of painted glass, and several fine altar-tombs of the Sutton family. In the Eec- tory garden is a Perp. window removed from Southwell Minster, in mistaken zeal for the restoration of Norm. work. Between Averham and Newark is Kelham Hall, the seat of the ancient family of Manners Sutton. It is a Gothic building, designed by the late Sir G. Scott. The Ch., an interesting Perp. build- ing, contains an ancient screen, and some good modern stained glass. 17 m. $ NEWARK -ON -TRENT (Stat., opposite the Castle ; the G. N. Stat, is 1 m. distant in Appletou Gate) was once remarkable for the number and good accommodation of its Inns, .owing to the great traffic through it of travellers and goods along the North road. Among these were the Saracen's Head, which existed iu the time of Edward III., and the White Hart in that of Henry IV. The former Inn has an additional interest from the writings of Sir Walter Scott, whose " Jeanie Deans " rested the night here on her way from Midlothian to London. The town (notwithstanding its name) stands some distance S. of the main branch of the Trent, but communi- cates therewith by a navigable cut fed by the river Devon, which is crossed by a modern 7-arched bridge. Newark extends along the road from Nottingham to Lincoln, and from very early times was regarded as a strong post to control commu- nication between North and Soutli. E;;bert is traditionally said to have Imilt the first fortress here, which, after falling into the hands of the Northmen, and being again taken from them, was rebuilt by Leofric of Mercia in the time of Edward 1 he Confessor, when it obtained the name of the " New Work." A strong Norm. Castle was built on the site of this by Alexander, Bp. of Lincoln, in 1123, but some years after he had to surrender it to Stephen. The bishop was a great castle builder, Sleaford and Banbury being also erected by him. " And because buildings of this nature seemed less agreeable to the character of a bishop, to extinguish the envy of them, and to expiate as it were for that otfence, he built an equal number of monasteries, and filled them with religious societies." King John died in the Castle in 1216, but no other event of historic importance is recorded of it till the time of Henry VIII., when Wolsey occasionally occupied it. During the civil wars it was a place of great importance to the royal cause, and the townsmen were hearty royalists. It endured three sieges, in the first of which a large part of the town was burnt by the governor as a defensive measure, and it long continued a check on the country between Nottingham and Lincoln, laying all those parts, says Cla- rendon, under contribution. At the second siege, in 1644, it was de- fended by Sir Eichard (afterwards Lord) Byron, until Prince Rupert relieved the town, after defeating the Parliamentarians on Beacon Hill, and caj^turing tlieir cannon, ammunition, and 4000 prisoners. Towards the end of 1645 the King, " like a hunted partridge, flitting from one garrison to anotiier," threw himself into Newark, but found the garrison in a most disorderly state, and, after a painful altercation with his nephew Prince Rupert, withdrew to Oxford. The Scottish army next besieged the castle, for the third time, but it was stoutly defended by Lord Bellasis, who performed his task with the most loyal fidelity, making several vigorous and de- structive sallies, though the town Boute 11. — Neicarh: St. Mary Magdalene. 77 was encompassed by lines and ram- parts thrown up along a circuit of 2^ m., and repelling every assault, until commanded by his master to surrender to the assailants, May 8, 1646, Charles having put himself in theii' hands in their camp at Kelham 3 days before. The Scots withdrew, and the Parliamentary commission- ers at once set about the destruction of the Castle, reducing it to a mere shell, in which condition it still stands, a picturesque ruin, at the foot of the bridge. The walls are all Norm., and the windows Perp. in- sertions. The ii;atehouse is Norm. ; as are also a crypt under the hall, the remains of the S.W. tower, and a postern-gate towards the river. The crypt is worth a visit. The long and lofty wall rising from the water-side, though Norm., has a Perp. aspect, being pierced with windows in that style. The Castle grounds on the town side have been converted into public gardens, and contain a Free Library, founded by Sir W. Gilstrap, Bart., a native of the tow-n. Some of the fortiiied works thrown up in the civil war may still be traced ; but Beacon Hill is now surmounted by the reservoir of the waterworks. Newark is now a place of con- siderable trade, its corn-market being one of the largest in the kingdom. Malthouses, agricultural implement works, gypsum mills, and breweries fivrnish the chief employment of the people. In the Market-place some few of the houses with ornamented fronts remain, and at the junction of Carter Gate and Lombard-st. is Beaumond (or Beau- mont) Cross, a handsome monolith shaft with figures in canopied niches, on the knop whence doubtless for- merly sprung the cross ; it is now surmounted by a modern cap of stone with a vane. The Grammar School, founded in 1529 by Thomas Magnus, Arch- deacon of the East Kiding of York- shire, has been rebuilt. Among its scholars are named Bps. White and Warburton, and Stukeley the anti- quary. Warburton was a native of the town, and practised as an at- torney there before he entered the Church. The Ch. of St. Mary Magdalene, restored l>y Scott, one of the largest and most beautiful parish churches in the kingdom, is the grand orna- ment of Newark ; it consists of nave with aisles, transepts, choir, and chantry chapels. The tower — a grand feature of the building — is E. Eng., surmounted by a Dec. spire, adorned with statues of the 12 Apostles, but the rest of the build- ing is mainly Perp., temp. Henry YII. The S. aisle is Dec. ; two late Norm, jjiers are standing in the nave, and the base of tlie tower seems also to be Norm. The building is of remarkable length and height, and has a very graceful interior. The columns of the nave and chancel are slender and lofty, and the walls of the chancel are pierced witli many large windows, giving the effect of a large lantern. The chancel is separated from the nave and chancel aisles by a grand canopied and pierced oak screen, finished in 1521, and which is in excellent preser- vation. A former altar - piece, Christ raising Lazarus, by Hilton, is over the N. porch. In the S. transept is one of the finest and largest brasses known, measuring 9 ft. 4 in. by 5 ft. 7 in. It is to the memory of Alan Fleming (d. 1361), said to be the restorer of the Ch., and is elaborately engraved with his effigy, in a civic dress, under a rich Gothic canopy, environed by saints and angels. It is supposed to be of tho same date and by the same artist as the Lynn brasses. There are several other smaller brasses, and an altar-tomb of 78 Boute 12. — Nottingham to Grantham. Robert Browne (1532), constable of the castle, and receiver to Cardinal Wolsey. The E. window is filled with stained glass, erected at a cost of lOOOZ. to the memory of the Prince Consort, the subjects taken from the history of our Lord. Tlie organ, enlarged in 1865, is one of the finest in the county. In a chamber over the S. porch is a theological library, bequeathed by Bp. White, of Peterborough. The Newark Stock Library of 18,000 volumes, and the Middleton News-room, are in a building in the Market-place, erected by Lord Middleton. Christ Ch., on the S. side of the town, is a modern E. E. building. The ecclesiologist should not leave the neighbourhood of Newark without visiting the Ch. at Hawton, 1| m. S., the Dec. chancel of which contains a beautiful 7-light window, and an Easter sepulchre with carved figures. The subjects represent the Soldiers sleeping at the Tomb, the Eising of our Saviour, His Ascen- sion, and the three Maries bringing ointment. The Ch. also contains a piscina, and sedilia with most ela- borately decorated canopies. Some of these are engraved in Parker's ' Gloss, of Architecture.' The Perp. tower (c. 1483) is fine, but not equal to the rest of the building. The Ch. of Balderton (1| m. E.)is also worth a visit. 19 m. Proceeding E. the line passes JVinthoiye Hall (Major G. T. Peirse-Uuncombe), with fine grounds bordering the Trent on N., and 1 m. further, an ancient brick house, the remains of the old Hall of Langford. The picturesque Ch. is close to the line. 1 m. W. is Holme (see Ete. 17). 22J m. CoUingham (Stat.)- The village is mainly one long street, running N. from the line, but is divided into N. and S. Collingham (each having a good restored Ch.), and is remarkable for its clean aud pleasant appearance. N. Colling- ham is said to be the birthplace of Dr. John Blow, the organist (b. 1648, d. 1708). There is the lower part of a fine wayside cross. At Potter's Hill, 2 m. E. of S. Collingham, is a large tumulus ; aud Brough and Coneygree, Eoman stations on the Fosse Way, lie S. of Potter's Hill. At 24 m. is South Scarle, with a large Perp. Ch. ; soon after passing which the line enters Lincolnshire, and at 33| m. is Lincoln (Stat.). See Handbook for Lincolnshire. ROUTE 12. NOTTINGHAM, TO GRANTHAM, BY BINGHAM AND BOTTESFORD. [BELVOIR.] G. N. RAILWAY. 22f m. Shortly after leaving Nottingham across the Trent are seen the grounds of Holme Pierrepont and the lofty spire of the Ch. The sce- nery here is very picturesque, the S. bank overhung by precipitous clilfs of New Ked sandstone. The river is spanned by a fine bridge, and at 5| m. is Eadcliffe (Stat.). The village stands on high ground, f m. rt., and is a busy place, stocking- weaving, malting, and basket- HmUe 12. — Holme Pierrepont — Bingham. 79 making being the chief employ- ments. The Ch. was rebuilt in 1879, in the E. E. Gothic style, and has several good stained-glass windows. 1 m. "W. is the village of Holme Pierrepont, with a noble Hall (a seat of Earl Manvers), inherited by the Pierreponts from the Mauvers family about the reign of Edward I. The house is a large irregular building, parts of it being of con- siderable age. In the Ch. are several tombs of the Pierreponts — one with the effigy of Sir Henry Pierrepont, 1615, and a very good Corinthian structure commemorating a Countess of Kingston, of the Talbot blood. The Dukes of Kingston were buried here, though Thoresby was their principal residence. 2 m. to the N. of Eadcliffe, under the shelter of the high ground over- looking the Trent, is Shelford, once the seat of the Earls of Chesterfield, whose mansion is now occupied by a farmer. It was garrisoned for the king by Col. Stauiiope, in the civil war, and burnt by the Parliamen- tary troops. Before the Keforma- tion it was a Priory of Austin Canons. Some of the family, in- cluding the celebrated Earl, aie buried in the Ch., which has a massive tower, once crowned with 8 pinnacles. The Stanhope monu- ments are interesting. 9 m. $ Bingham (Stat.), also a Stat, at Bingham Road on the L. & N. W. and Ci. N. Elys, joint line (see Rte. 22). This small market town stands in a low situa- tion, in a flat, well-cultivated dis- trict, the Vale of Belvoir, of which it is considered the capital. It is a neat thriving place, with a market-cross on the site of an older one ; it was evidently once larger than it is at present. Numer- ous foundations of ancient build- ings arc found extending lar beyond the present limits, even to the hamlet of Saxondale, IJ m. W. St. Mary and All Saints' Ch., once a collegiate establishment, is a large and very fine cruciform structure, the E. E. tower and Dec. spire being its main features. The chancel and tran- septs are Dec, but much of the tracery has been destroyed, or re- placed by Perp. work. " Of the aisles arcades the northern is the earliest, as indicated by the severity of its pillar capitals and mouldings generally. The former are well worthy of careful examination, con- taining some beautiful specimens of carved animals. The S. arcade is for the most part built of a different kind of stone. Its pillar-shafts are octagonal ; these spring from bases, some of which have bold water- mouldings ; all the capitals are foli- ated, and the manner in which the acanthus-like leaves in one instance exhibit their nerves as they bend round the bell behind is pleasing, as well as the flow of those upon the westernmost one, as though it was yielding to the wind." — Rev. E. Trollope. In the S. aisle is an effigy of a knight, supposed to be that of Richard de Bingham, of the time of Edward I. Some modern stained glass is the work of an amateur. Bingham boasts of having had as three successive rectors in the 17th centy.. Abbot, Archbishop of Canterbury, Wren, Bishop of Ely, and Haumer, Bishop of St. Asaph, also of having given birth to Arch- bishop Seeker, Admiral Lord Howe, and Robert Lowe, Lord Sher- brooke. The plague of the 17th century committed great havoc in this town. The antiquary will find the site of a lioman Station, supposed to have been the ancient Vernonietum, about 1 m. to the N., betweiiu Bing- ham and East Bridgeford, on the couise of the Roman Fosse Way to Newark. 80 Boute 12. — Aslodon — Bottesford. 2 m. N.E. of Bingham is Carcol- ston ; the Oh. has a fine Dec. chancel, similar to that at Woodborough. Col. Haclier, who commanded the guard at the death of Charles I., resided in the old Hall ; this was afterwards occupied by Thoroton, the historian of Notts, who was buried in the ch.- yard in 1678. 1 m. farther N.E. is Screveton, where Thoroton was born. The Ch. contains some handsome 16th-centy. monuments of the Whal- ley family. 4 m. S.E. of Bingham is Langar, with some Scrope tombs in the Ch., and the gatehouse of Wiverton Hall, once their seat. 5 m. S.W. is Owthorpe, where Col. John Hutchinson, one of the regi- cides, resided ; tliere is a monument to him in the Ch., where he was buried in 1663. 11^ m. Aslocton or Aslacton (Stat.). A farm now occupies the site of the moated Manor House, in which Archbishop Cranmer was born in 1489 ; traces exist of its pleasure- grounds, and " Cranmer's walk " is pointed out. A short distance off is the very plain but interesting Ch. of Whatton, dedicated to St. John of Beverley, in which Cranmer is said to have commenced bis ministry. It is cruciform, mainly E. E., with Norm, traces, and a Dec. spire. There are several monuments of early date, an altar tomb of Sir Kichard de Whatton, 14th cent., and another of alabaster of Sir Adam de Newmarch, 15th cent, but the most interesting is an incised slab of the 16th centy., representing a layman named Cranmer, supposed to be the Archbishop's father (d. 1501). There are also the remains of an old village cross, carved with figures of saints. Wliatton Manor House (Mrs. Dickinson Hall) is a very handsome mansion, with exten- sive grounds. 13 m. Elton (Stat.). The stat. lies midway between the villages of Orston (N.) and Elton (S.). The former has a local repute for its ex- tensive gypsum beds, and a spring supposed to be very efficacious in scorbutic cases ; and the latter is a meet for the Belvoir hounds. The Ch. of Orston has an E. E. chancel, and fine Dec. work about the nave ; that of Elton is a very small, poor building. In 1780 a discovery was made in the ch.-yard of Elton of a very large number of silver coins of Henry II. About 2 m. N.E. of Orston is Staunton, with an ancient manor house, the seat of the Staunton family, who have been settled here from time immemorial. The adjoin- ing Ch. has a good screen, and many monuments. Thoroton (1 m. N. of Orston) has a Ch., badly restored, but with an exquisite tower and spire. Sibthorp, IJ m. further, was of old the seat of the family of that name. The Ch. retains some traces of its ancient magnificence, when it was served by a large College of secular Priests. The line now passes into Leicester- shire, and reaches at 15f m. $ Bottesford (Stat.). The little town stands in a pleasant spot on the small river Devon, but is best known for its fine Cliurch, which for several centuries was the burial-place for the De Koos and the Manners families. It is mainly early Perp., but has some slight E. E. and Dec. traces, and also some debased Perp. (Jacobean) portions ; the tower and spire rise to the height of 222 ft., and are of very fine proportions. The chancel con- tains the superb monuments of all the Manners Earls of Rutland, and of several other members of the family ; among them, one of two youths, whose death was ascribed to the magic arts of two female servants (Margaret and Philippa Flower), for which they were executed. Thei-e Boufe 12. — Belvoir Cnafle. 81 are also two brasses, for rectors of the Ch. (H. de Codyngton, 1404, and John Freman, 1440), and a very curious diminutive effigy in cbain- maii, once taken to represent Robert de Todenei, the reputed Norman fouii(ier of Belvoir, but believed now to be his great grandson, William de Albini (d. 1286), one of the 25 barons who swore to enforce the ob- servance of Magna Charta. In the ch.-yard is a curious incised slab (14th centy.), with the semi-efSgy of a female, respecting which tiiere is a tradition that it represents " the fair maid of Norman ton" (an ad- joining hamlet in the parish), who was killed by earwigs. — Bei: E. Trollope. 4 m. S. of Bottesford stands the superb seat of $ BELVOIR CASTLE (Duke of Rutland), occupying tlie artificial mound thrown up on a spur of the Leice-tershire Wolds by Robert de Todenei, to whom tiie surrounding district was granted by the Con- queror, as the site of his stronghold. This afterwards passed to the Al- binis, the lords of IMelton Mowbray, and, by marriages, first to the l3e Roos and then to the Manners family. It was forfeited to the Crown by the Lancastrian Lord De Roos in 1461, and was by Edward IV. granted to Lord Hastings. On tlie accession of Henry VII. it was restored to the son of the late lord. He, however, died without issue, and the estate fell to George Man- ners, the son of his sister Eleanor ; it has ever since remained in the Manners' family. Among the older topographers there has been some discussion as to the foundation of Belvoir (locally " Beever "), Burton attributini^ it, but wrongly, to one of the Albinis. Its situation also, on the borders of Leicester and Lincoln, has caused it to be claimed for each shire, the fact being that the vast estate extends into both. [Derby, (tc] A priory was founded at the foot of the mound by de Todenei, and in it the lords of Belvoir were usually buried. On the suppression of tiie priory many of the monuments were removed to Bottesford Cii. {ante], and others to Croxton Abbey, by the 2nd Earl of Rutland. Belvoir was a royal garrison in the civil war, and having suffered greatly from subsequent neglect, its rebuild- ing was commenced in 1800 by the 5th Duke of Rutland, under the direction of Wyatt. The works \yere carried on until 1816, when a fire made great havoc, but tliev were resumed on a still larger scale, and the Castle is now a pseudo- Gothic castellated building, with a frontage of 252 ft., occupying a grand position on the summit of an isolated hill, overgrown with beautiful timber. There is a country saying, " If Beever hath a cap, you churls of the vale look to that," alluding to the position of the castle, as affording a good prognostic of rain. At the bottom stand the stables and offices. Tiie visitor enters by an archway on the N.W. The entrance-iiall contains a num- ber of figures in armour, and leads through a corridor lighted by stained glass to the staircase, which is lined with portraits of the Eurls of Rut- land by Vandyck and Kneller. The principal apartment is the Regent's Gallery, 131 ft. long, so called from the visit of the Prince Regent (after- wards George IV.) in 1814. In it is some tapestry, representing, with extraordinary vividness, scenes in 'Don Quixote'; also family por- traits, of which the principal are I^ady Tyrconndl, Marchioness of Granby, 9th Countess of Rutland, by Lely. Among other pictures is the Death of Lord Manners, by Stothurd ; there is also a bust by Nollekens. Adjoining is tl>e chapel, containing a tine altarpiece by Mu- rillo. The library has 2 portraits of Charles II., by Vandyck and Vorstcr- 82 Boute 13. — Nottingham to Mansfield. man ; and the ball-room, most of the family portraits. la the apartment known as the Queen's bedroom are curious paintings on Chinese silk. The drawing-room is fitted up most chiborately in the Louis Quatorze style, the ceiling painted with scenes of classic mythology, introilucing, among other likenesses, the Duke of York as Jupiter; the sides of the room contain apartments in which is a series of miniatures, and among them a set representi^vg Queen Elizabeth and some of her ministers. There is also a marble statue of a late Duchess of Rutland. In the dining-room is the table for holdmg the punch-bowl, in which the white cloth, sculptured by Wyatt, is mar- vellously represented. The Picture- gallery, 62 ft. long, contains paint- ings by Holbein, Vandyck, N. Poussin, Claude, Vandervelde, Teniers, Rubens, Murillo, Salvator Rosa, Ostade, West, Gainsborough, Stothard, Sir J. Reynolds, Lely, Kneller, and others. Notice par- ticularly the Proverbs by Teniers, in which a portrait of his son occupies a prominent place ; the Seven Sacra- ments, by A''. Poussin; Shepherd and Shepherdess, Eulens ; Cruci- fixion, Vandyck ; portrait of Rem- brandt, by himself; Virgin and Child, Carlo Dolce; Presentation, Murillo; Last Supper, N. Poussin. A number of valuable pictures were destroyed in 1816, when this portion of the castle was burnt down. Addi- tional interest is conferred on these apartments by the beautiful and extensive views over the vale of Belvoir and the three counties of Leicester, Nottingham, and Lincoln, the castle and Cdthedral of the two latter towns being visible. The keep of the Castle is known as the Staunton Tower, and is under the honorary command of the Staunton family, who hold it by an old tenure that they should raise soldiers for its defence when required. The terrace gardens on the hill- side and the grounds generally are remarkable for their beautiful situa- tion and the skill lavished on them. The visitor should obtain permission to see the Mausoleum, a stone build- ing of Norm, architecture, in the grounds, containing a beautiful sculptured efligy of a late Duchess of Rutland. Of the Priory, founded by De Todenei, there are no remains ; but part of its site is occupied by a com- fortable little Inn. Belvoir is open to visitors daily, Sunday excepted. For the country S. of Belvoir, see Rte. 21. The line, soon after leaving Bottes- ford, passes into Lincolnshire, and arrives at 18^ m. Sedgehrook (Stat.). 22f m. $ Grantham (Stat.). See Handbook for Lincolnshire. KOUTE 13. NOTTINGHAM TO MANSFIELD, BY NEWSTEAD. [HARDWICK HALL, BOLSOVER.] MIDLAND RAILWAY. 17^ in. The branch line to Mansfield branches off N. from the main line near the foot of the Castle rock, passing up the valley of the river Lene. There is a stat. at Lenton, where there are many fine seats, Lenton Hall (F. Wright, Esq.), Lenton Firs, and other residences. It is the nearest stat. to Wollaton Hall (Lord Middleton), see Rte. 10. [The G. N. Rly., Leen Valley branch, runs parallel with the Midland line from Daybrook as far as Newstead, Route 13. — Basford — Newstead. 83 having stations at Bulvvell Forest, Bestwood Colliery, Butler's Hill, Hucknall Torkard, Linby, and New- stead, The Manchester, Sheffield, and Lincolnshire Ely. has a line in progress from Sheffield to the South, through Nottingham.] At Radford (Stat.) a branch line goes off W. to Trowell. 4 m. Basford (Stat.), a great centre of the Bleaching Industry. The Ch., dedicated to St. Leodegarius (Basford being a Norman settlement), is a graceful specimen of E. E., and amongst other memorial windows, has one to the (Fifth) Duke of New- castle, under whose fostering care the Ch. was enlarged, and a Chapel of Ease built at Cinder Hill, 1^ m. W., the headquarters of an extensive colliery. The internal decorations of both churches are deserving of notice. New Basford, 1 m. S., now a separate parish, is one of the great seats of the hosiery and lace manu- factures. 6J m, Bulwell (Stat., also Stat on G.N. Ely.), named from a re- markably pure spring, rising in Bulwell Forest, employs a large population by its bleach yards. Bulicell Hall (T. Hardy, Esq.). 2 m. W. is Nuthall, with a small old Ch., and very extensive collieries. Nuthall Temple (John Holden, Esq.), once a seat of the Sedleys, is one of many copies of the Villa Capra of Palladio, near Vicenza, the casts representing groups from jEsop's Fables which adorn the dome are very interesting. 8| m. Hucknall Torkard. (Stat., also Stat, on G. N. Ely.). The Ch., a very plain building, with square tower at the W. end, has a family vault, m which Lord Byron, his mother, and his only daughter, are buried; as well as John, the first lord (d. 1G52), and his six brothers, all stout Eoyalists of the time of Charles I. On the rt. of the altar is a tablet set up to the memory of Byron by his sister, the Hon. Augusta Leigh, and a slab of rosso-antico marble, sent by the King of Greece, has been inserted in the floor of the chancel over the spot where the coffin lies. There is another tablet erected to Ada, daughter of Lord Byron, wife of Earl Lovelace. The Ch. was rebuilt, and a S. aisle added in 1873, and enlarged in 1887. 3 m. W., situated amidst very broken and pretty scenery, are some slight remains of Beauvale Abbey, founded by Nicholas de Can- tilupe. Lord of Ilkeston, in the reign of Edward III., for Carthusian monks. Little is known of the history of this Priory, except that it was one of the foundations to which John of Gaunt made an annual grant of a tun of wine. The ruins are incorporated with the offices of a farmhouse. 1 m. S. are also some remains of Gresley Castle, a stronghold of the Canti- lupes, founded in 1341. 91 m. Linby (Stat., also a Stat, on G. N. Ely.), the Ch. of wlych contains some monuments of the Chaworths. At 101 m. Newstead (Stat.). $ Newstead Abbey (W. F. Webb, Esq.)- " An old, old monastery once, and now Still older mansion — ot a rich and rare Mix'd Gothic, such as artists all allow Few specimens yet left us can compare Withal ; it lies pei b.ips a little low. Because the monks preferr'd a hill behind To shelter their devotions from the wind"— is IJ m. from the stat., the same dislauce from Newstead Stat, on the G. N. Ely., and about 11 m. N.W. of Nottingham by the Mansfield turnpike-road. The entrance from this road, which is E. of the house, is marked by a fine vigorous tree, called "The Pilgrim's Oak" a 2 84 Boute 13. — Newstead Abbey. (sole survivor of the old wood, cut down by the 5tli Lord Byron). A road of nearly f m. leads down to the house ; and an avenue of IJ m., planted with Wellingtonia gigantenn, extends from it to the stat. on W. The Abbey of Newstead. called in old deeds de Novo Loco in Sherwode, was founded about 1170 by Henry II., in expiation of the murder of Thonias- k-Beckett. It was occupied by a com- munity of Black Canons Eegular, of the order of St. Augustine, and the names of 20 of its priors have been preserved. John Blake, the last of them, surrendered the house to the Crown, July 21, 1539, and had a pension of 16/. 13s. id. ; the annual value is stated at 219/. I8s. Sd. On May 28, 1540, its possessions, and also those of the Priory of Haver- holme. Lincolnshire, were sold to Sir John Byron, of Colwick (called " Little John wath the great beard "), and his illegitimate son John suc- ceeded him in possession. " He pro- bably converted the domestic buildings of tlie monastery into a residence for himself. The Priory Church would form a quarry close at hand, from which materials could be procured for such alterations as he and his suc- cessors might desire. Excepting, therefore, its W. front, which evi- dently was once highly ornamented, its S. wall, of great strength, two sides of its S. transept, now trans- formed into the Orangery, and the vacant E. window, little remains of which can be traced above ground. The cloister court still retains its cloisters of the late Perp. style, in which may be observed an E. E. doorway, which led into the nave of the ch., near the W. end, and the position of the Norman lavatory on the S. side." — J. M. O. Sir Kichard Byron garrisoned the house for Charles I., and the family suffered severely during the civil war. At the EestoratioD a pension of 500/. a year was granted to the widow of the 1st lord, and the second lord had a grant of money instead of liberty to cut down 1000 great oaks in Sherwood Forest which Charles I. had bestowed on him ; but these were only slight compensations for its losses. Evelyn, who visited Newstead in 1654, says of it, " It is situated much like Fontaine- bleau in France, capable of being made a noble seat, accommodated as it is with brave woods and streams. It has yet remaining the front of a glorious abbey church." Those, how- ever, were not days of restoration ; and in the 4th geneiation the estate came into the hands of the 5th lord, who, from hatred to his heu-s, seemed in his later years to take an insane pleasure in making as much havoc as possible. From him his great nephew, the poet, received the place in 1798, in a state of complete desola- tion. Its once noble woods presented a broken surface of mere stiunps of trees. The gardens were neglected and overgrown, the lake was half- choked with mud, and the house falling to decay, with damp lichens spreading over its walls. Of the state of the place some 30 years before Horace Walpole speaks thus : " I like Newstead. It is the very abbey. The great E. window of the church remains, and connects with the house ; the hall entire, the refectory entire, the cloister untouched, with the ancient cistern of the convent, and their arms on it ; a private chapel quite perfect. The park, which is still charming, has not been so much unprofaned ; the present Lord has lost large sums, and paid part in old oaks, 5000/. of which have been cut near the house. In recompense he has built two baby forts to pay his country in castles for the damage done to the navy, and planted a handful of Scotch firs, that look like ploughi)oys dressed in family liveries for a public day. In the hall is a very good collection of pictures, all animals ; the refectory, now the great drawing-room, is full of Byrons ; the vaulted roof remains, but the win- Boute 13. — Newstead Abbey. 85 dows have new dresses making for them by a Venetian tailor.'' The poet was a minor when he came into possession of his desolate heritage, and in after years his habits and want of means prevented his doing anything effectual to arrest its decay, though he always regarded it with affection. He fitted up a corner for himself, but even that was not altogether impervious to the rain. At last he sold it, in 1818, to his old schoolfellow, Col. Wildman, who, having given for it the sum of 95,000Z„ expended as much more in its re- storation, with taste and judgment, under the direction of Shaw, the architect. Col. Wildman not only raised it from ruin, but was careful to preserve the antique character of the place, and to treat with respect all the associations connected with it, and under his care it reached a state of splendour never surpassed in its best days. The present beautiful and flourishing woods were planted by him, and the residence in effect re- built in the Jacobean style, preserving the old terraced gardens. In a line with the front of the house are the remains of the ruined Ch., whose vacant but elegant W. window forms a striking feature in all views : — " A glorious remnant of tho Gothic pile (While yet the church was Rome's) stooil half apart In a grand arch, w hlch once Bcreen'd many an aisle. These last had disappear'd — a loss to art; The first yet frown 'd superbly o'er the soil, And kindled feelings in "the roughest heart. Which mourn'd the power of t'me's or tempest's march In gazing on that venerable arch. Within a niche, nigh to a pinn.icle, I'welve saints had once stood sanctified in stone ; Hut these had fallen — not when the friars fell. But in the war which struck Charles from his throne ; When each house was a fortalice, as tell The annals of full many a line undone — The gallant Cavaliers, who fought in vain For those who knew not to resign or reign. But in a, higher niche, alone, but crown'd, The Virgin Mother of the God-born child. With her Son in her blessed arms, look'd round. Spared by some chance when all beside was spoil'd ; She made the earth below seem holy ground. This may be superstition, weak or wild ; But even the faintest relics of a shrine Of any worship wake some thoughts divine. A niiglity window, hollow in the centre. Shorn of iis glass of thousand colourings. Through which the deepen'd glories once could enter. Streaming from off the sun like seraph's wings. Now yawns all desolate ; now loud, now fainter. The gale swpcps through its fretwork, anil olt sings The owl his anthem, where the silenced quire Lie with their hallelujahs queuch'd like fire. But in the noontide of the moon, and wlieii The wind is winged from one point of heaven, rhere moans a strange unearthly sound, which then Is musical -a dying accent driven Throiigli the huge arch, which soars and sinks again. Some deem it but the distant echo given Back to the night-wind by the waterfall. And harmonised by the old choral wall." From a low-vaulted crypt on the ground floor, resting on pillars, the entrance lies into a noble hall, which has been well restored. The dining- room, panelled with oak, has a ciu"ious canned chimney-piece, with heads and the figure of a lady be- tween two Moors in one compart- ment. A similar chimney-piece ex- ists in one of the bedrooms, in which the female is said by tradition to be a Saracen lady, rescued by one of the Bvrons, a crusader, from her infidel kinsfolk. At the end of the building, next to the church, the poet's own bedroom remains nearly as he left it, with the bed, fiu-niture, and portraits of Joe Murray, his old butler, and Jackson, the boxer, which he brought with him from Cambridge. A low cloister runs around a court, 86 Boute 13. — Newstead Abbey. in the midst of which rises a quaint fountain : — " Amidst the court a Gothic fountain play'd. Symmetrical, but deck'd with carvings quaint — Strange faces, like to men in masquerade, And here perhaps a monster, there a saint ; The spring gush'd through grim mouths of granite made And sparkled into basins, where It spent Its little torrent in a thousand bubbles. Like man's vain glory and his vainer troubles." The Abbey contains, besides a portrait of Byron, interesting relics of Livingstone, the African Ex- plorer, and many trophies of the chase and specimens of South African zoology, shot by Mr. Webb. The garden is flanked by a raised terrace. In the middle is a monkish fish-pond or stone basin, above which rises a grove of trees, flanked at either end by leaden statues of Fauns, set up by a former Lord Byron, and known to the country folk as " the old Lord's Devils." Upon the bark of a beech stem, one of two springing from one root like brother and sister. Lord Byron carved his name and that of his sister Augusta during his last visit to the place in 1813. The in- scription, being in danger of perish- ing, has been cut out, and is now preserved in a glass case in the house. On the edge of the pretty modern flower-garden rises " the young oak" which he planted and celebrated by some verses. Lord Byron caused the tombs of some of the monks to be opened, and raised several stone coffins, from one of which he selected a skull, and had it mounted in silver as a drinking-cup ; this the present owner has interred in the chapter-house, now used as a private chapel. On the lawn is the monument to " Boatswain," a favourite Newfound- land dog, whose epitaph by his mas- ter is engraved on it. Lord Byron desired in his will to be buried beside this monument — a direction very properly neglected by his relatives. In front of the Abbey expands a lake, frequently mentioned by the poet : — " Before the mansion lay a lucid lake. Broad as transparent, deep and freshly fed By a river, which its soften'd way did take In currents through the calmer waters spread Around ; the wild fowl nestled in the brake And sedges, brooding in their liquid bed ; The woods sloped downwards to its brink, and stood With their green faces fix'd upon the flood. I did remind thee of our own dear lake By the old Hall, which may be mine no more. Leman is fair ; but think not I forsake The sweet remembrance of a dearer shore ; Sad havoc time must with my memory m.ike Ere that or thou can fade these eyes be- fore."— ro Augusta. On the brink are the forts built by the old Lord, who also maintained a small vessel on the water. From some parts of the park, a conspicuous feature is the headland, once crown- ed with a tuft of trees, beautifully alluded to in Byron's poem of ' The Dream,' but wantonly cut down some years ago by the late Jack Musters, the former owner of the soil : — " A gentle hill. Green and of mild declivity, the last- As 't were the cape of a long ridge of such, Save that there » as no sea to lave its base, But a most living landscape, and the wave Of wc.od and corn-fields, and the abodes of men Scatter'd at intervals, and wreaths of smoke Aiising from such rustic roofs; the hill Was cmwii'd with a peculiar diadem Of trees in circular array, so fix'd Not by the sport of nature, but of man." On this spot Byron took his last farewell of Miss Chaworth. The estate, which is of about 3200 acres in extent, was purchased by the present proprietor in 1861, soon after the death of Col. Wildman. The park, of 880 acres, has been enclosed and divided into farms, ex- cept a tract near the house. Boute 13. — Annesley — Sutton in Aslifield. 87 Newstead stands within the bor- ders of Sherwood Forest, originally occu- pying about one-fifth part of Not- tinghamshire, extended from Not- tingham to Worksop, 20 m., with a breadth of from 5 to 7 m., a tract of about 95,00U acres, of which between 00,000 and 70,000 are now cultivated, though the soil is but poor, produc- ing little beside oats and potatoes. It belonged to the Crown from the reign of Henry II., and was often the scene of royal huntings ; it was the resort^ of Robin Hood, and reputed traces of him are to be found all round Newstead. At 1 m. S. of the abbey, in the grounds of Papplewick HaU (H. F. Walter, Esq.), is Robin Hood's Cave, cut out of the red sandstone rock, with rude attempts at columns and arches ; it is said to have served as a stable. Robin Hood's Hill, and Chair, are to the N. of the park, and farther in the same direction, near Blidworth (where there is an excavated sand- stone rock), is Fountain Dale, where Robin Hood encountered Friar Tuck— " From ten o'clock that very day, Until four in the afternoon. The curtal Friar kept Fountain Dale Seven long years and more ; There was neither lord, nor knight, nor earl Could make him yield before." Not far off is Thieves' Wood, whence it is a walk of 2 5 m. to Mansfield, passing on E. Berry Hill (James Lees, Esq.). llj m. Annesley (Stat.). Anne- sley Hall (J. P. Chaworth-Musters, Esq.), one of the seats of the an- cient family of Chaworth, for whose heiress, the " Mary " of his poetry. Lord Byron entertained a secret attachment in his youth. It is a brick building, resembling an old French chateau, and stands in a beau- tifully wooded park. It is approached by a gatehouse. It contains " the antique oratory," mentioned in Byron's ' Dream ' as the scene of his interview with the lady of his love — " her who was his destiny." Mr. Chaworth, of this place, who was killed in a duel in 1765 by the 5th Lord Byron, an ancestor of the poet, is buried in the old Ch., which has been superseded by a modern Ch., erected in 1874 by the late Mr. J. C. Musters. It is situated on the high ground, and a populous colliery village has grown up near to it. The ground in the neighbourhood of Annesley is elevated (about 600 ft.), and the summit level of the rly. is reached at Kirkby Forest, 12 m., where Robin Hood's Hills are pierced by a tunnel. These hills, which are stiU open and uncultivated, offer pleasant rambles, and wide and beau- tifvd views in every direction. From Coxmoor, on a clear day, the towers of Lincoln Cathedral first catch the eye, while the southern horizon is bounded by the rocks of Charnwood. Nearer home are the woods of New- stead and Annesley in one direction, and those of Hardwick in the other, with the spires and villages of Kirkby and Sutton just at foot. 13 m. Kirkby Junct. Stat. Here a branch from the Erewash Valley line (Rte. 3) runs in. The restored Ch. has Norm, portions. Near it the Erewash takes its rise. 15 m. Sutton in Ashfield (Stat.) is a large village, with hosiery and silk mills and limeworks. It is pic- tm-esquely placed on the border of the Forest, and its Ch. is noticeable for its lofty octagonal spire. It contains a memorial window and monuments to the Arkwright and the Scarsdale families. Sutton Hall (W. Arkwright, Esq.), a Corinthian edifice, on the site of an old seat of the Leakes, Earls of Scarsdale. In lOAS Sutton was gal- 88 Route 1 3; — Mansfield — Pleasley. lantly held by Lord Deincourt fur the king, but he eventually had to yield to a superior force luider Col. Gell. A legend is told of one of the ancient Lords of Sutton, who went to the Holy Land, and, being very anxious to retinn home, fell asleepi and awoke in the porch of Sutton Ch. Here he found that his wife, whom he had left at home, had given him up for lost, and was that very day to be married again. Between Sutton and Mansfield is a large reservoir, made by the Duke of Port- land in ISoG, for a water supply for the irrigation of his meadows. Its extent is 70 acres. Ill m- $ Mansfield (Stat.), a thriving market-town, of substanti- ally built stone houses. It stands on the border of Sherwood Forest and of the '• Dukeries ■' (see Etes. 15, 16): it is traversed by the little river Maun, on the banks of which are several cotton mills ; there are also lace- thr'^ad mills and shoe factories ; but mahiugs, irou-foundries, and stone quarries now give the chief em- ployment. The Parish Ch. has a Norm, and Dec. tower, surmounted by a low spu-e. The Market-place has a TowTi-hall, and a very elegant Gothic memorial for Lord George Bentinck, the well-known Parlia- mentary leader (d. 1848). In the W. part of the town is St. John's Ch., built 1855, with fine tower and spire. Mansfield was from very early times a royal manor, and from its vicinity to Sherwood Forest was often the residence of the kings of England, who repaired thither for sport. The ballad of the King (said to be Henry II.) and the Miller of Mans- field commemorates such a visit : — " When as our royal king came liome from Nottingham, And with his nobles at Westminster lay, Recounting the sports and pastimes they had taken In this late progress all along the way ; Of them all, great and small, he did protest The TMiller of Mansfield's sport liked he best." The King's Mill, situated in a deep glen (1 m. S.W. of the town, close to the rly. viaduct), is said to have been the scene of the King's entertainment ; but it is more likely that it obtained its name from beitig a royal manor. Not far off is the Miller's house ; but both buildings are modern ; the ruins of the old mill being supposed to be covered by the waters of a reservoir. The whole neighbourhood is full of tra- ditions of high personages. At Hambleton or Hamilton Hill, to E. of Sutton Stat., Henry II. is said to have lost himself whUe hunting, and at Low Hardwiek, on W. of the line before reaching Sutton, Cardinal Wolsey rested before his arrival at Leicester. Dodsley. the bookseller and author of ' The Toy-shop,' was bom at Mansfield in 1703. The Duke's Flood Dyke between Mans- field and Ollerton is a work interest- ing to the agriculturist (Rte. 15). It has been conjectiu-ed by some anti- quaries that Mansfield was a Eoman station, from the discovery of coins. &c., and of a very perfect foundation of a villa near Pleaslev, in the year 1786. From Mansfield a very pleasant Excursion may be made into Derby- shire, to Hardwiek Hall, and Bol- sover, the whole distance being about 16 m. Both these places can be visited by Ely. by taking the Alfreton line as far as Pleasley, and changing on to the Doe Lea line. Quitting the town by the Chester- field road, at 1 m. is a road on N., leading to Mansfield Woodhouse (Stat.) (see Ete. 15). At 3 m. the little river Meden is crossed, and Derbyshire is entered at Pleasley (Stat.), a village of cotton-mills, with an ancient market-cross. The scenery is very pleasing, a narrow rocky valley traversed by the stream, which at one part is dammed up, so as to form a capacious reservoir. A walk of less than 2 m. up the river bank, passing Mouie 13. — HardwlcJc Hall. S9 Newbound Mill, conducts to Hard- wick Hall. On S., at 1§ m. distance, is Teversall (Stat.), a pretty village on a hill ; the Ch. has a good Norm, doorway and some monmnents of the Greedhalghs and Molyneuxs. The Manor=house (J. Gething, Esq.) has very fine gardens. $ Hard WICK Hall (Duke of Devonshire) is a fine Elizabethan man- sion of great extent, scarcely altered since the day it was built ; still, only an example of faded splendour. It is habitable, but destitute of all com- fort, and very little suited for a dwelling of the present time. It was built by Elizabeth Countess of Shrewsbury, better known as " Bess of Hardwick," who conomenced it in 1576. She was bom in the old Hall, in 1520. and was the daughter of John Hardwick, Esq., a man of such moderate fortune that she re- ceived only 40 marks as her marriage- portion. She was four times mar- ried : her husbands being Robert Barlow, Esq.. Sir Wm. Cavendish, the founder of Chatsworth, Sir Wm. St. Lo, and George, Earl of Shrews- bvu-y, whom she sm-vived 17 years. Biographers agree in describing her as " a proud, selfish, and intriguing woman, a money-lender, a dealer in coals, lead, and timber, who died inmiensely rich, and yet without a friend." She was, indeed, a shrewd and thrifty dame, and managed her own estates, farmed her own land, and enjoyed a rent-roll of 60,000?. a year. Her greatest passion was for building, as exemplified in the noble houses that she erected : and local tradition accoimts for this by a pro- phecy, that she should never die until she ceased to build. Hence her in- cessant efforts to keep the workmen busy ; but at last, in 1G07, so hard a frost occurred as to render mason - work an impossibility ; and during this frost her death took place. The Hall stands in the midst of an exten- sive park, abounding in venerable oaks, now for the most part past their maturity, stagged and gone at the head. The house on the outside looks like a lantenl, so great is the nmiiber of wihdows — " Kurdwick Hall, More gla-B than wall," is a local rhyme. " You shall have Rometimes faire houses so fuU of glass that one cannot tell where to become to be out of the sun." — Bacon's Essays. It is surmoimted by a singular parapet of stone-work, perforated with the initials of its foundress, E. S.. and is fronted by a walled garden. The interior is graphi- cally described by Horace Walpole, who cites Hardwick as a characteris- tic specimen of the style of archi- tecture prevailing in the reign of Elizabeth : — " Hardwick, still pre- served as it was fiurnished for the reception and imprisonment of the Queen of Scots, is a curious picture of that age and style. Nothing can exceed the expense in the bed of state, in the hangings of the same chamber, and of the coverings for the tables. The first is cloth of gold, cloth of silver, velvets of different colours, lace, fringes, and enibroidcry. The hangings consist of figures, lai-ge as life, representing the Virtues and the Vices, embroidered on grounds of white and black velvet. The cloths to cast over the tables are embroider- ed and embossed with gold on velvets and damasks. The only moveables of any taste are the cabinets and tables themselves, car.^ed in oak. The chimneys are wide enough for a hall or kitchen, and over the arras are friezes of many feet deep, with relievos in stucco representing hunt- ings. Here, and in all the great mansions of that age, is a gallery, remarkable only for its extent." The Hall, which is very spacious and lofty, and set round with antlers, contains a beautiful statue by West- macott of Mary Queen of Scots, 90 Route 13. — Hardwich Hall. bearing a Latin inscription on the pedestal. In an antechamber are some cu- rious leather hangings stamped with patterns in gold. The spacious Coun- cil Chamber, 65 ft. long, is hung round with unrivalled tapestry (which abounds in all parts of the house), and its walls are surmounted bj a stucco frieze 10 or 12 ft. deep, representing a stag-hunt. In the Library, which also is hung with tapestry, are por- traits of the Countess of Shrewsbury ; of Lady Sandwich (Ann Boyle), by Lely; and of Geoffrey Hudson the dwarf, by Vandyck. The chimney is ornamented with a stiff relief of Apollo and the Muses. The tapestry in the Drawing-room is ancient and curious, representing the story of Esther and Ahasuerus. The Chapel also contains some exquisite specimens of tapestry aud embroidered needlework. In the Dining-room is a mantelpiece with the inscription — " The conclusion of alle thinges is to fear God and keepe his commandementes." The State-Bedroom is a very fine apartment, containing tapestry deli- neating the story of Ulysses, a state canopy of black velvet, and some in- aid fm'uitm-e. Queen Mary's bed was brought hither from the old house, and is placed in a chamber still bearing over the door the anns of Scotland, and letters M. E. The memory of Mary Stuart is, perhaps, the chief source of interest at Hard- wick. Here are preserved the furniture which she used, the cushions of her oratory, the tapestry wrought by her hands. " The bed has been rich be- yond description, and now hangs in costly golden tatters ; the hangings, part of which they say her Majesty worked, are composed of figures as large as life, sewed and embroidered on black velvet, white satin, &c., aud represent the virtues that were neces- sary to her." — Walpole. Grey says, " One would think that Mary was just walked down with her guard into the park for half an hour." For 16 years of her captivity in England Mary was entrusted to the charge of the Earl of Shrewsbury, the lord of this mansion, but she passed only a small portion of that time here. The Picture Gallery extends along the whole E. front of the building, is magnificently lighted, and covered from top to bottom with nearly 200 portraits, which have historical value, tliough but few deserve to be men- tioned as works of art. Among the most interesting are Sir Thos. More ; Lady Jane Grey ; Bp. Gardiner ; James V. of Scotland and Mary of Guise ; Mary Queen of Scots, a whole- length in black, pale and worn with suffering, taken in the 10th year of her captivity, 1578 ; Queen Elizabeth, with golden hair befrizzled, with a monstrous farthingale, and a gown embroidered with serpents, birds, a sea-horse, &c, ; her minister, Burgh- ley ; the Queen of Boliemia ; three different portraits of " Bess of Hard- wick, Countess of Shrewsbury ; " also portraits of two of her husbands, Cavendish and Shrewsbury ; and her grandchild, the unfortunate Lady Arabella Stuart, when only two years of age, with a doll in her hand. She was born and lived here many years under watch and ward. Hobbes, the philosopher, lived as tutor in the Cavendish family, and died at Hard- wick set. 89, 1679. Near the house are the remains of the Old Hall, built probably in the reign of Henry VII., and in- teresting because in it Queen Mary passed a small part of her captivity It is a ruin, roofless, draped with ivy, and tottermg to its fall. A short distance N. of the park is the village of Ault Hucknall, in the small Ch. of which Hobbes the phi- losopher is buried ; there are also some Cavendish tombs. Towards the N.E. is the"^ ham- let of Glapwell, once a dependency Boute 13. — Bolsover Castle. 91 of Darley Abbey, and at 7 m. Scarcliffe; the restored Norm, and E. E. Ch. has a remarkable 13th- centy. monument to a lady and child, probably of the Frecheville family. In the parish was a spring, called Owlsditch, noted for its greater abundance of water in dry than in wet weather, and locally regarded as one of the wonders of the district. 9 m. (or 7 m. by the direct road) $ Bolsover (Stat.), now little more than a village, but formerly a market- town, which grew up around a castle foimded by William Peveril, and seized by the crown, temp. Hen. II. The town stands on a precipitous bank, overlooking the vale of Scars- dale, and had fortifications of its own, independently of the castle ; several of the watch-towers remain, of Eliza- bethan date apparently ; and there are also earthworks, ascribed to the Danes. The Ch., Norm, and E. E., has a 13th-centy. calling of the Crucifixion, and another (15th centy.) of the Nativity. In the Cavendish chapel are some elaborate monu- ments to the Cavendish family, and one to the 2nd Duke of Newcastle (d. 1691), which is resplendent with variegated marbles. On the monu- ment of Sir Charles Cavendish (d. 1617), which contains the effigies of himself, his wife and 3 sons, is an inscription that deserves perusal. The Ch. was restored in 1877. Bolsover Castle occupies the site of the Norm, edifice, which was held for King John against the barons, and was one of the possessions of Edmd. Tudor, Earl of Richmond, but had been suffered to fall into decay in the time of Leland, who speaks of it as a ruin. The manor was granted by Hen. VIII. to Thomas, Duke of Norfolk, on whose attainder it re- verted to the crown ; and in 1552 it was bestowed on Lord Talbot, after- wards Earl of Shrewsbury, and one of the husbands of Bess of Hardwick. By her management, the estate was secured to her second son, Sir Charles Cavendish, in whose descendants in the female line, the Dukes of Port- land, it still remains. The grandson of the builder, Wil- liam Cavendish, Earl, and afterwards Marquis and Duke, of Newcastle, twice entertained here with great magnificence King Charles I. and his court, at a cost of 4000Z. the first tune, and of 15,000Z. the second, being, according to Clarendon, " such an excess of feasting as had scarce ever been known in England before." On one of these occasions, 1634, Ben Jonson's masque of ' Love's Wel- come ' was got up in the most sump- tuous manner, and performed by the comiiers. Bolsover was taken by the Parliamentary forces in 1644, and was afterwards saved from de- struction by a younger brother of the Earl, who bought it in. From the date of its sale its history as a for- tress ceases, and it became instead one of the most splendid residences in the land. The present castle or castellated mansion was begxm by Bess of Hard- wick, and finished in 1613, by Sir C. Cavendish, her son. It stands on a fine elevated and wooded terrace, from whence there is a splendid view over Scarsdale, Hardwick Hall being con- spicuous to the S.W. It is a square castellated edifice, 4 stories in height, with turrets at each corner, except the N.E., where there is a high tower, on the site of Peveril's Norm, keep. The interior consists of noble rooms, with wainscoted walls, highly ornamented chimney-pieces, and ceil- ings carved and gilded. A flight of steps leads up to the door, which is surmounted by the Cavendish arms, and leads into a vaulted hall. Be- yond is the pillar dining-room, so called from a column roimd which the table is arranged. A ^one stair- case conducts to the Star Chamber, or drawing-room, a room 40 ft. long, richly adorned, and filled with old 92 Honte 14. — Newarh to Mansfield, furniture. The roof is blue, orna- mented with golden stars, and the upper part of the walls is adorned with large pictures of the 12 Caesars, copied from those that hung in the West- minster Star Chamber in the time of Charles I. An adjoining small room, most beautifully roofed with marble, was the boudoir of the literary- Duchess of Newcastle. On the terrace is the pictiuresque ivy and lichen-clad ruin of a superb mansion in the late Elizabethan style, begun by Sir Charles Caven- dish, and added to by his son, who also erected a Riding School, so fre- quently mentioned in his work on Horsemanship, which contains some excellent views of Bolsover. In the reign of George I. Bolsover ceased to be a residence of the Cavendishes, eventually went by marriage into the family of the Duke of Portland. The whole of these later buildings were dismantled, but the pseudo- Norman castle has been ever since kept in repair. In the neighbom-hood of Bolsover are extensive stone quarries. ROUTE 14. NEWARK TO MANSFIELD, BY SOUTHWELL. MIDLAND RAILWAY. 18 J m. Shortly after leaving Newark the line crosses the Trent near Averham (Ete. 11), and runs at the foot of the range of high ground on which the large and pleasant village of Upton is situated ; the view S. over the vale in which the river pursues its winding course is very agreeable. 3 m. EoUeston Junct. Stat. (Ete. 11). The line now turns N., ascends the valley of the Greet, and reaches at eh m. $ Southwell (Stat.). The lown consists of 5 distinct portions, with open spaces between, and thus j occupies a very large space in pro- portion to its population, which is about 3000. I This place was fixed on by some I early antiquaries as the site of } the "Eoman station Ad Pontem, but I it is now considered to be repre- ' seuted by Farndon, on the Trent, 4 m. S.E. Camden says, " That this [Southwell] is that city which Bede called Tio-vul-ginacester I the ra- ther believe, because those things which he relates of Paulinus baptiz- ing in tlie Trent are always said to have been done here by the private history of this church." The Minster is supposed to have been founded by Paulinus, about 630. under the auspices of Edwin of Northmnbria, and down to the year 1841 it be- longed to the diocese of York. It became a collegiate church shortly after the Norman conquest — even before, according to some writers — and many of its prebends were founded by Northern primates. In 1540 it was surrendered to the Route 14. — Southwell : Cathedral. 93 Crown, but the chapter was shortly | after re-established, and endowed with a large part of its old posses- sions. In 1552 it was again dis- solved, and its property granted to Dudley, Duke of Northumberland. His attainder caused it to revert to the Crown. Mary re-established the chapter, and it remained substan- tially unchanged until it passed into the hands of the Ecclesiastical Com- missioners, 1836-I8il. Several emi- nent Churchmen have been prebends of Southwell, among whom may be named Bps. Hutton of Durham. Sanderson of Lincoln, and Denison of Salisbury; and also Mr. Mompesson of Eyani (Rte. 8). The Minster (now a Cathedral), which is one of the finest eccle- siastical structm-es in the county, stands in a well-kept close, the main approach to which is by an ivy- mantled gatehouse facing the W. front. It is a cruciform Ch., 306 ft. long, with transept. 122 ft. It has a central and two western towers (be- tween which is a noble Perp. W. window of 7 lights), and, though on a smaller scale, bears a striking re- semblance to York Minster. The nave, the transepts, and the towers are Norm., of the early part of the 12th cent., but the W. towers, which are of 7 stages, show Dec. and Perp. alterations. The central tower is of but 3 stages, of which the middle is occupied by an interlacing arcade, partly blocked. The choir, its aisles, and its small E. transepts, are Early Eng., and among the best examples of the style. The E. end has two tiers of lancet-windows. The organ- screen and the stalls are later Dec, and particularly good. Notice also the brass eagle lectern, formerly be- longing to Newstead Priory. It was found in a lake there and sold as old metal, but being accidentally seen in a shop at Nottingham by the Rev. S. R. Kaye, a prebend of Southwell, it was purchased by him, and pre- sented to the church in 1805. The eagle stands on a ball, in which when opened were found concealed deeds relating to the priory. The N. transept contains the altar- tomb, with effigy, of Abp. Sandys of York, who died at Southwell. July 10, 1588. The S. transept, which is entered by a doorway with a segmental arch, is of 3 stages, the 2 middle lighted by circular-headed windows, with dog-tooth and billet mouldings, and the upper stage by round win- dows, divided from, the others by stringcourses. The windows are filled in with stained gla.ss. as is also the E. window of the choir. The triforial arches are large, those of the clerestory small. The nave has a wooden ceiling, with 5 recessed arches and elabo- rate moulding and interlacing arcade, and the aisles are groined in stone ; they are separated from each other by 7 massive circular piers, from which spring round-headed arches with billet moulding, and from the gallery above there springs another series with square piers. The clere- story is lighted by circular, and the S. aisle by Perp. windows, above which, externally, runs a stringcourse ; some very small lights are inserted be- tween the latter and the corbel- table. Notice the Norm, string- com'se carried along the whole of the exterior, from the transepts to the western towers. The N. porch is very fine, and has a deeply- recessed Norm, doorway. The octagonal Chapterhouse, N. of the choir, is Early Dec. with a fine double door and good window- tracery ; it somewhat resembles that of York, being surrounded by stalls, but it has no central colunm. The foliage of the capitals is particularly graceful. To the E. of the* Ch. is the Residentiary House, a plain red brick building. Adjoining, on S. 94 Moute 1 4. — KirJcUngton — Bainworth. are the very picturesque remains of the Archbishop's Palace. The Nor- thern primates had a dwelling here at a very early period : indeed, ^Ifric died at Southwell in 1050 ; so did Gerard, the 2nd Norm. Archbishop, in 1108. He died whilst sleeping in the garden after dinner, and as a book on astronomy was found beside him, he was denounced as a magician, and denied burial in his cathedi-al. Much of the site of the palace is now occupied as a market-garden. The edifice was erected by Abp. Thoresby, c. 1360, but greatly altered and added to by Wolsey. The walls are aU Dec, with Perp. windows inserted ; there is a good bold roU moulding, as a string along the walls, of Dec. cha- racter, and some curious closets in the walls and buttresses. There are several Perp. fireplaces and chimneys (the lower parts Dec, the upper Perp.), some of which are engraved in Parker's ' Domestic Architecture.' The archbishops had no less than 4 parks at Southwell and its neigh- bourhood. One of these, Norwood (L. K. Starkey, Esq.), 1 m. N.W., still exists, and contains a very aged tree, known as Cludd's Oak. Beside the Minister, there is a handsome district Ch. with spire 150 ft. high, at West Tliorpe. The streets of the High Town, or South- well proper, are well paved, and very clean and quiet, the aspect of the whole being in strict accordance with its position as a small cathedral town. The Saracen's Head is the old inn where, tradition says, Charles I. put himself in the hands of the Scots' Commissioners, and was by them led to their camp at Kelham, opposite Newark, To the E. of Southwell, on Burgage Green, an open space with fine trees, is the Manor House, the residence of Lord Byron and his mother during his boyhood. Even as a youth his passion for arms exhibited itself, and the furniture of his chamber was much cut and slashed — a circum- stance subsequently tm'ned to good account by the auctioneer, who em- bellished the matter by asserting the havoc to have been made with " the identical sword with which a former Lord Byron killed Mr. Chaworth." 1 m. S.W. is the village of Hal- loughton. It contains a Manor farm incorporating some interesting remains of the Prebendal Manor House of the 15th centy. The little Ch. has been restored, but preserves the old E. gable with two lancets, and a good oak rood-screen. 8^ m. Kirklington and Edingley (Stat.). These are both mere vil- lages, standing N. and S. of the line. Kirklington has a modern castellated Hall (Mrs. Boddam-Whetham), with very extensive grounds. 11 m. Farnsfield (Stat.). A clean, pleasant-looking village, on the verge of the so-called Forest, which from here to Mansfield is little more than an alternation of wide stretches of heath with patches of arable land. The Ch., rebuilt except the tower, is a handsome Perp. structure, with a chastely-decorated interior. Hex- grave (G. Sugden, Esq.), one of the aixhiepiscopal parks, is in this parish. 14 m. Eainworth (Stat.). This is a hamlet of Bhdworth, consisting of little more than the Eobin Hood Inn, and one or two farms. It stands on the Eainworth Water, a tributary of the Maun, amid pleasant scenery, which, though not particularly strik- ing, will well repay a few hours' ramble. 18^ m. Mansfield (Stat.) (Rte. 13). Boute 15, — Mancfield to WorTcsop. 95 ROUTE 15. MANSFIELD TO WORKSOP AND RETFORD [WELBECK]. MIDLAND KLY. AND M. S. & L. RLY. 22 m. To those who can spare the time the drive of 12 m. by the coach road is much preferable, as the charm of the scenery is lost by going by the Rly. The road is, in great part, through a group of noble parks, which, from their having originally belonged to former Dukes of Norfolk, Kingston, Portland, and Newcastle, have fixed upon this district the well-known name of the " Dukeries." The Duke of Norfolk, however, sold Worksop, and the Dukes of Kingston now ex- tinct, have been succeeded in the possession of Thoresby by their de- scendant in the female line. Earl Manvers. The Dukes of Portland and Newcastle remain at Welbeck and Climaber. This aristocratic terri- tory occupies that part of the area of Sherwood where spacious tracts of that ancient forest are still preserved. Leaving Mansfield by rail, and passing over a lofty viaduct, At 1^ m. is Mansfield Woodhouse (Stat.), a place remarkable for. its quarries of magnesian limest^jne, which, and not, as commonly sup- posed, those of Bolsover, furnished the material for Southwell Minster (Rte. 1-1). The E. E. Ch. is a hand- some edifice, with lofty spire, which contains a sanctus bell. It was restored in 1878. There are traces of a camp, supposed to be Roman, at a short distance, where Roman remains have been often found. [A road on E. leads by Clipstone and Edwinstowe to OUerton (8 m.). Clipstone is an estate of the Duke of Portland, and the road to it runs by the side of a canal of irrigation, formed by the late Duke, at an expense of 80,000Z., and called the Duke's Flood Dyke; by which the stream of the Maun is distributed by minor cuts, tiled drains, and sluice- gates along the slopes below it ; and a previously baiTen valley, sides of which were rabbit-warrens overgrown with heath and gorse, and its bottom a swamp producing tussocks and rushes, has been converted into a most productive tract of meadow and pastm-e land, yielding three crops of grass annually. The river is diverted near the vale-head and led along the hillside, and the bottom has been drained. The canal extends to near OUerton, about 7 m. from Mansfield, the latter portion being applied to the lands of Earl Manvers. These famous meadows have been often quoted in sanitary and agricul- tural discussions. The canal water, after depositing all its more valuable contents upon the land, rims off through the bottom of the valley in a stream as clear as crystal. It is fuU of trout, the fishing "however is pre- served. The domain of Clipstone ex- hibits a specimen of good farming, and is well worth a visit from all who are interested in agricultural improve- ments. A little to the S. of Clipstone are the scanty remains, consisting of rubble walls, of King John's Palace, still called " The King's House," and long possessed by the Earls of Shrewsbiu-y. Between Clipstone and the Warsop road, about a mile from each, is the Parliament Oak, under which John held a council in 1212. It is still flourishing, though sup- ported by iron rods. Midway between Clipstone and Edwinstowe a beautiful Gothic arch- way, called the Duke's Folly, series as a sort of lodge, the "tipper part being used as a free school. It is in the Forp. style, the mouldings, win- 96 Boiite 15. — Edwinstoive — Elmton and Creswell. dow tracery, and sculpture well executed ; wliile the niches are filled appropriately with statues of Robin Hood, Little John, Maid Marian, Allan a Dale, Friar Tuck, Cceur-de- Lion, and King John, with a Latin inscription from Horace. A broad turf ride leads from this lodge to Welbeck, passing through Birkland Forest, the wildest and most natural portion of Sherwood Forest^ — a very paradise of picnic- holders ; whose privileges, however, have been curtailed, owing to some mischief having been perpetrated by foolish holiday-makers. There are no restrictions whatever in Earl Manver's neighbouring forest of Bil- haugh. " An enclosmre act has divided amongst farmers the land which till recently gave some idea of the old forest, and here and there a scanty patch of a few acres alone remains to call to the memory of older inhabitants its former condition. But if you would know what the forest may have been, you may still find a beautifully undulating range of land, rich in furze and heather, stretching away from the first mile- stone on the Southwell road towards Rufford Abbey, where the partridge has been himted with the hawk within the memory of man." — A. W. W. Birkland (so called from the full- grown birches) has been a good deal thinned, and very few of the real old giants are left. The gaps, however, are being filled up with relays of oaks and Spanish chestnuts. The best route for the pedestrian is from Clip- stone Lodge, up the ride into the forest, and thence, in a N. W. direction, to Gleadthorpe Lodge, where the Warsop and OUerton road is crossed. Between Budby and Edwinstowe is to be found the Major Oak, which has a circumference of 30 ft., and that of the branches, at its greatest extent, of 210 ft. ; seven people are said to have dined in it at once. Edbin Hood's Larder is another fine example of old forest life, which wiU hold a dozen people inside. It is sometimes called "The Shambles," from the fact that Hooton, a noted sheep- stealer, used to hang up the carcases of the sheep inside. At 6 m. is Edwinstowe, with its pretty church, a charming speci- men of a forest village. 2 m. fm-ther E. is Ollerton (see Rte. 16).] ^ m. Shirebrook (Stat.), in Derby- shu-e. To the E. is Sookholme, a small village, with an ancient chapel dependent on Warsop. Near by is Nettleworth Hall (Miss AUeyne), and 1| m. N. is Warsop, or Market War- sop, though not now a market town, celebrated for its horse and cattle fairs. The tourist must not confound this name with Worksop, or, as com- monly pronounced, Wussup. A little beyond it the road crosses the river Meden, and farther still a high mount, called Cuckney Hill, where is a fiue view to N. and E. over the woods of the Dukeries. 6 m. Langwith (Stat.), in Derby- shire. 2 m. E. is Cuckney with a handsome Perp. Ch., with Norm, doorway ; it once possessed a castle, of which only the site remains. 8 m. Elmton and Creswell (Junct. Stat., with a branch line to Chester- field). On the E. are the Creswell Crags (see Rte. 4), through which the road leads (2i m. from the Stat.) to $ WELBECK ABBEY, the seat of the Duke of Portland. The park is ornamented by a large lake, and is remarkable for its woods, and for some of the finest oak-trees in Great Britain — veritable survivors of Sherwood Forest. Near the entrance to the Abbey stands the Greendah Oak, once so large that a carriage- road ran through its trunk, but now in the extremity of vegetable age, CopJTi^T > r THE DUKERIES V r Eoute 15. — WelbccJc Abbey. 97 with a mere trace of vitality, ami supported wholly by props ; it is said to be more than 700 }-cars old. On the side next Worksop Manor (N.) are two more vigorous stems, but stag-headed, called '• The Porters," because they stand on cither side a gateway. Not far off is the Duke's Walkiiig-stick, 111 ft. high. The park has an extent of 2283 acres, and is 8 m. in circuit. The Abbey is a large battlemented house, lying in a hollow near the margin of the lake. Welbeck Abbey, which was founded, temp. Hen. II.. "by Thomas de Cuck- eney, was of the Premonstratensian order. At the Dissolution it was sold to the "Whalleys, one of whom parted with it to the Cavendishes, who built the present house in 1604, in which parts of the old structure are incor- porated. The interior is Jacobean, but badly executed, the fan tracery and pendants of some of the chief rooms being formed of stucco on basket work. (The same may be noticed in the music-room at LuUing- stone, of about the same date ; see Ilandbook for Kent.) Ben Jonson's interlude of ' Love's Welcome ' was performed here when Charles I. was entertained by Cavendish, afterwards Duke of Newcastle. The old stables and riding-house, now disused, were built by the same Duke. He was the author of a work on ' Horsemanship,' the staunch sup- porter of Charles I., and the husband of a most eccentric duchess. The house contains some fine pictures, viz. — Thomas Wentworth, Lord Strafford, in armour, full-length and fine ; Lucy Percy, Countess of Carlisle ; Sir Keuelm and Lady Digby, with 2 sons, and William Cavendish, Duke of Newcastle ; Arch- bishop Laud ; Philip Herbert, Earl of Pembroke ; all by Vandyck ; — a Senator of Antwerp, and Moses in the Bulrushes, Murillo : St. John in the Wilderness, Caracci ; a Holy Family, Raphael ; Christ, and St. John with iDerby, 4:c.] f the Lamb, Guido. Several family portraits : Lord Rich, Cavendish, Lord Titchfield, Mr. C. Cavendish, Sir Joshua Beynolds ; Admiral Tromp, Corn. Jansen. Several hunt- ing-pieces attributed to Snyders, and some to Rubens. The grounds were undermined by the eccentricity of the late Duke with passages and subterranean structures, among the latter a famous riding- school, now used as a ball-room and picture gallery. It is IGO ft. in length. There is an underground passage 2G'10 yds. in length towards Worksop, along which carriages can drive. The new riding-school, 400 ft. in length, by 106 ft. in width, and 50 ft. in height, and the tan gallop, 422 yds. long, were also erected by the late Duke. The stables, dairy, workshops, and schools for the children of the employees form quite a colony. Notice the almshouses erected by the present Duke out of his winnings on the tm-f. The stud stables are 1 m. distant. Adjoining Welbeck, on N., con- necting it with Worksop town, and skirted by a road on the 1., is Work- sop Manor, once the property of the Duke of Norfolk, but prnxhased in 1840 by the Duke of Newcastle for 350,000?., and by his descendents sold in 1890 to Mr. John Robinson. The house, once a vast Italian pile, was built on the site of a former mansion, which contained 500 rooms, and was burned down in 1761, with all its gallery of paintings and statues, to the value of 100,000/. The Duke of Newcastle pulled it down and con- verted the stables into the present moderate-sized residence. The park stretched nearly up to the town of Worksop, but has been partly en- closed and ploughed up, and is let in small lots. It still retains some noble avenues. Worksop Manor is held by the tenure of providjng a glove for the king's right hand at the coronation and supporting it while he holds the sceptre — a tenure shifted 98 Moute 15. — Worlcso])— Shireoalis. to this place from Farnham Eoyal, near Windsor. 10 m. Whitwell (Stat.) (see Ete. 4)- 15 m. $ "Worksop (Stat.), a clean country town of two principal streets at right angles, composed of red- Drick houses. It has a large trade in malting, and formerly " had a great produce of liquorice."' There are also some iron-foundries for agricultural implements, and many people are employed in making packing-cases for the Sheffield manufacturers. In the suhiurb called Radford, on the E. of the town, is the parish Ch., formed out of the very interesting Norm, nave of the Church of the Priory, founded by William de Lovetot in 1103, with the aisles restored in the Perp. style. There are 2 W. towers, surmounted by modern battlements and pinnacles, and the E. end has a good triple lancet, with circular windows above. TJie S. porch has an elaborate groined roof. The Ch. contains many monu- ments, particularly of the Lovetots and the Furuivals, ancestors of the Talbots, Earls of Shrewsbmy, from whom the house of Howard inherited their vast midland and northern estates. A short distance E. of the present Ch. is the ruined Lady Chapel ; it is very fine E. E. work, and formerly contained many of the monuments now placed in the Ch. On the S. side is a picturesque gateway in the Dec. and Perp. styles, a relic of the Priory. Notice the figures and sculptures on the S. face. The Eoman Catholic chapel at the top of Park-street was erected by the Duke of Norfolk at a cost of 3000Z., and contains some good carved stall- work, a carved altar, and painted windows. St. CutliherVs College is a short distance on the road to Clumber, on a site given by the Duke of New- castle. 3 m. E. of Worksop, and to the N. of the M. S. & L. Ely., is Osberton (F. J. S. Foljambe, Esq.). " It stands between the river Eyton and the Chesterfield Canal, and has a portico of the Ionic order. The estate con- tains an abundance of thriving plan- tations of oak. larch, and other useful timber trees : through the ^whole runs a rivulet, expanding in front of the house, and losing itself among the woods, so as to appear a river of considerable magnitude. " The surrounding scenery is syl- van, the foregroimd interspersed with noble oak, elm, and beech trees, occasionally standing alone, but sometimes in groups ; and is backed by extensive woods that contain spruce firs of the largest dimensions, which beautifully feather to the ground." Less than 3 m. W. of Worksop is the Duke of Newcastle's colliery at SMreoaks, with rly. stat. The late Duke conmienced sinking in 1854, through the Permian and magnesian measures, believing that the coal would be found to be lying imjne- diately under them. After proceed- ing about 200 feet, coal was found, and the top hard measiu-e reached in 1859, at a depth of 515 yards. About 1500 tons are now raised every day from the pits, a successful at- tempt, founded on good geological calculation, to extend the area of our coal-producing basins. A colliery village sprung up, and for the in- habitants the late Duke erected a handsome Ch., in the E. E. style, the first stone of which was laid by the Prince of Wales. The Duke died very shortly after, and the chancel was elaborately decorated, with reredos, painted windows, &c., to his memory. From Worksop the line (M, S. & L. Ely.) continues to 22 m. Eetford (see Ete. 17). Roufe 16. — Ncioarh to WorJcsoj). S9 EOUTE 16. NEWARK TO WORKSOP, BY OLLERTON. [T MORESBY, CLUMBER.] BY ROAD. 21 111. Crossing the Trent by a handsome modern bridge at 2J m. N. of Ne^^■ark. Kelham is reached, where the head- quarters of the Scots were fixed when Charles I. placed himself in their hands. The view from the bridge is very fine. On 1. are the grounds of Keiham Park (Col. J. H. Manners- Sutton), reaching down to the river, and the stream itself, with its many M'indings and broad clear flood, makes a noble appearance. The neat smull village is a mere appendage to the Hall, and the most striking object in the Ch. is the monumental chapel of the Suttous. Lords Lexington. The white marble effigies of the last Lord Lexington (Robert Sutton, d. 1723) and his wife are singularly placed back to back. The house, a fine Gothic building, was rebuilt by Scott (after a fire had destroyed the old house, restored by the same architect). The entrance- gateway, with pillars of polished granite, is particularly good. On W. is the road to Southwell and Mans- field (Rte. 14). 5 m. On E. is Caunton, on the banks of a small stream called the Willough])y. The Ch. has a good Peq). tdwer. There arc some old mansions in the parish, viz. Dean Hall, an Eliza- bethan house, Beesthorpe Hall, the property of the ancient family of Bristowe. and Caunton Manor," the residence of Dr. Hole, Dean of Rochester, the eminent florist and writer on horticulture. Higher uj) the Willoughby arc Maplebeck, a retired hamlet, and be- yond it Eakring, with a Ch. that for- merly belonged to Rufford Abbey, and of which Mompesson, of Eyam, became rector. The soil in' this neighbomhood is a stiff clay, on which a coarse description of hops is abundantly grown. 8i m. Knesall, once a part of the possessions of the Earls of Chester. 11 m. Wallow, a large village, M'here chair-making is extensively carried on. The Ch. is a mean building, mainly of brick. To the E. of the village is the site of Jordan Castle (now occupied by a farm- house), built by Jordan Foliot, temp. Hen. II. 1| m. 1., on the verge of Sherwood, is Rufford, a village only remarkable for its noble seat of EufFord Abbey (Rt. Hon. Lord Savile,G.C.B.), an ex- tensive edifice, in which are included some portions of the Cistercian monas- tery founded in 1118 by Hugh Fitz- ralj>h and his wife. Leland visited Rufford, and says of it, " On tlie other side of Rmne Water is a village connnonly called Rufford for Rume- ford, a quarter of a mile beyond which stood a late Rumford Abbey of white monks. The Earl of Shrews- byri hath it now of the king for exchange of land of his in Ireland."' The hall is Elizabethan, and contains some old paintings, chiefly family portraits. Tlie well-wooded park (which af- forded a shelter to Mr. Mompesson of Eyam, — Rte. 8) includes an area of about GOO acres and a fine lake. The approach from the W. is by,a very handsome lodge. The estate belonged to the Savilcs, Baronets and Marquises of Halifax, who ob- tained it by an heiress Irom the Talbots. The heiress of the Saviles man-ied an Earl of Scarborough and the estate has been for some time 100 Boufe 16. — OUcrton — Clumber ParJc. settled on a younger branch of that family. 12 m. $011erton, a very small, but neat market town, pleasantly placed amid hop-grounds. The Ch. is but a chapel of ease to Edwinstowe, and is in nowise remarkable. A de- lightful ramble of about 8 ni. may be made hence to Mansfield, passing Edwinstowe and Clipstone (Ete. 1.5). Leaving Ollerton. the little river Maun is crossed, and the road hence to "Worksop (9 m.) is through the midst of Sherwocd Forest, or rather through that part of it where trees of most ancient growth have been preserved. This remnant of the forest, including the woods of Birk- land and Bilhaugh near Edwinstowe. is estimated at 3| m. long by 2 broad. It is the rendezvous of all the picnic- makers of the county, and is full of the most charming forest scenery. " A thousand years, ten thousand tempests, lightnings, winds, and wintry violence, have all flung their utmost force on these trees, and there they stand, trunk after trunk, scattered, hollow, grey, gnarled, stretching out their bare, sturdy arms, or their mingled foliage and ruin — a life in death." — Hoxdtt. On the E. of the road is the noble $ THOKESBY PARK, 1 m. in circuit. There is a carriage-road a mile long by the Buck Gates through the midst of a superb grove of oaks, almost all of great age, stag-headed and gnarled. and affording many fine subjects for the artist's pencil, to the House, the magnificent seat of Earl Manvers. The old mansion, in which Lady Mary Wortley Montagu was born. was destroyed by fire in 1745, and was rebuilt by the last Duke of Kingston. The present house has been built by Lord Manvers in the Elizabethan style, from designs by Salrin. The beautiful grounds are embellished with a fine lake, which is more than a mile in length, and is formed by an artificial expanse of the river Meden as it flows through the park. The bust of Pascal Paoli the Corsican, who resided here for some time, is still preserved. For forest scenery, its grand feature, the park of Thoresby can scarcely be smpassed in England. There are some monuments to the Pierreponts and some painted glass in Perlethorpe (anc. Peverilthorpe) Ch. within the precincts of the park. Opposite the park, at 1 m., is Budby, a model village of Gothic cottages, built by the first Earl Manvers in 1807. The inlet of Thoresby Lake is here crossed by the road. Immediately adjoining, and to the N. of Thoresby, is $ CLUMBER PARK, the property of the Duke of Newcastle. The Park was laid out, planted, and in fact created, by the great-great-grandfather of the present Duke. The house, though of stone, is not imposing externally, from want of height ; but it has comfort and splendoiu- within. In 1879 nearly all the rooms of the older house were consumed by fire. It has been replaced by a fine Central Hall in classic style by Charles Barry, F.S.A. There is a fine Library with a good collection of books. In the State Dining-room, which will accommo- date 150 guests, are 4 Market-pieces, with figures life-size, by Smjdei's ; and a Game-piece, by Weenix. Ttere. are also good paintings, princij^Mly of the Netherlands school, dispersed about the house. Among the most remarkable are — Vandi/cl:. Einaldo awakened by the IMermaid (Tasso) : Sir Godfrey Kneller. George II. and Queen Caro- line : SluriUo. the Virgin in the Clouds. smTouuded by Angels, stand- ing on a half-moon : Tenlers. the Brickmakers : G. Foussin, a Land- scape; i?Mf)f?is, two heads of Females, tasting and smelling; BembraiK^t, Route 17. — Neioarh to Doncaster. 101 Portrait of a inau, with a paper in his lumd ; Guido. Artemisia; Cor- reggio (/), Sigismuuda weeping over the heart of Tancred ; Battoni, a Holy Family : Van Vos, Fruit and Flowers : small copy of Raphael's School of Athens : Vandermeulen. The Battle of the Boyne: Vandycl; Portrait of Charles I., f size. Titian, Portrait of a Lady ; Holbein, Head of a Man ; P. Xeefs, Interiors of Churches ; liuijsdael, a Sea-piece, •with breakers ; Vandycl:, Head of a Lady, in a blue dress : A. Dllrer, Virgin and Child, between pillars, with Angels ; Doinenichino. Portrait of a Cardinal ; Gainshorongh, Two Beggar Boys. In the Hall are numerous Eoman busts, and a statue by Canova of Napoleon I. The house stands on the margin of a beautiful artificial lake. 3 m. long, covering an area of 200 acres, and floating a small model frigate. Here is a fine terrace and garden, formed by the late Duke, with flights of steps leading down to the water, and decorated with vases of marble, and a foimtain-basin cut out of a single block of marble 12J ft. in diameter. The conservatories in the kitchen garden are 1300 ft. in length ; and the stud-farm is an atlraction to many. The present Duke has erected a Church beautifully decorated in the interior by E. F. Bodley, A.R.A. About 1 ]u. W. of Clumber is Welbeck Abbey (Rte. 15), and in the space between is the small village of Carburton. the property of the Duke of Pnitlaud. Hence to Worksop the road lias almost the character of a forest drive, with Worksop Manor on W., and on the E. a fine expanse of open C'luntry. 21 m. Worksop (Rte. 15). ROUTE 17. NEWARK TO DONCASTER, BY TUXFORD, RETFORD, ASB BAWTRY. G. N. RAILWAY. 3G m. The Ely. keeps very nearly the sams course as the old mail-coach road, which is carried from Newark across the flat meadows that occupy the space between the two branches of the Trent, upon a raised causeway, with frequent openings to give pas- sage to the floods. This work was formed bv Smeaion in 1770. at a cost of 12,000/. At 2 m. from Newark the line crosses the Trent below Muskham Bridge, and pa-sses the villages of S. and N. Muskham. Human remains have been found in the gravel of the river in tliis neighbourhood. From N. Muskham there is a ferry to Holme. The Ch. is most interesting, full of old woodwork, and contains a fine monument of Barton, the founder, and the tomb of two members of the family of Bellasys, who lived here in the 17th centy. Above the porch is a chamber where a woman named Nan Scott is said to have shut herself up at the time of the plague, IGGG, and so escaped the disease. 5 m. On E. is the village of Crom- well, the original seat of a great baronial family, afterwards seated at Tattershall. (See Handhooh for Lin- coln-hire.) The first Lord Cromwell was Constable of the Tower in the reign of Edward II. Qh m. Carlton- on-Trent (Stat.). The village is a hamlet oi Norwell. It had a Norm, chapel, now replaced by a small modern E. E. Ch.. which has some good stained glass in the chancel. Carlton House (Lt.-Col. James Craig). 2 m. W. is Ossington Hall, the seat of the late Lord 102 Boute 17. — Tuxforcl — Befford. Ossington, who, as the Rt. Hon. J. E. Denison, was long Speaker of the House of Commons. Ossington Ch., a modern Grecian building, contains some old monmuents of the Cartwrights (former possessors of Ossington Park) , and two statues, by Nolleliens, of members of the Port- land family, to which Lady Charlotte Denison belonged. 1 m. N. is Moor- house, a hamlet with a very beautiful smaU Ch., built by Lord Ossington. llf m. $Tuxford (Stat.X asmall market town, known as Tuxford-in- the-Clay (Saxon, Tuxfarne), lies f m. W. The place has a modern appearance, having been almost entirely rebuilt after a fire in 1702. St. Nicholas' Ch., built in the Perp. style, contains a few ancient and mutilated monuments, possibly of the family of Longvillers, whose chief seat was here before they merged into the Stanhopes of Rampton ; also a rude representation of St. Lawrence on a gridiron, one man blowing the bellows while another is turning the saint. At Tuxforcl Hall (R. S. Wilson, Esq.) there is a fine collection of pictures, old oak furniture, china, and other art objects. Visitors are admitted. The country around Tuxford is a pleasant agricultural district, and about a mile from Tuxford on the Great North road, there is a stone which formerly bore the inscrip- tion : — " Here lieth the Body of a Rebel, 17-16. ■' At Darlton, 3 m. N.E., is a farm- house, called Kincjsliaugh, tradition- ally said to have been a hunting seat of King John. At West Markham, 1^ m. N.W., the Ch. was built in 1831 by the Duke of Newcastle, lord of the manor, with a burial-vault for his family beneath it. It is a Grecian edifice surmounted by a dome, the design by Smirhe. In East Markam Ch. (recently restored) are several monuments, one to Chief Justice Markham, " the up- right judge " (d. 1108). On Markham Moor, which was en- closed 1810, was once a celebrated posting inn. 18^ m. $ Retford (Stat.). The joint stat. of the G. N. Rly. and the M. S. and L. Rly. is in the parish of Ordsall, and is an important railway centre. The town, 1 m. N., is an ancient borough. In the year 1877 its boundaries were extended, and it now includes East and West Retford, with the parish of Ordsall and a con- siderable portion of Clareborough. The river Idle divides East from West Retford, and runs into the Trent at West Stockwith. West Retford has a pretty Ch., with hand- some crocketed spire. East Retford contains a noble Ch., chiefly in Perp. style, dedicated to St. Swithin. The Ch. fell down in the early part of the 17th cent., and was rebuilt on the old lines in 1667. It is of note that the brief, directing collections to be made for the re- building, was ordered by Oliver Crom- well, and signed by his son Richard. The building was well restored and the chancel rebuilt in 1855. The town is clean and well built, with a spacious Market-place, in which stands the Broad Stone. This was probably the base of an ancient cross, which formerly stood in a part of the town still called Dominie Cross. The Town Hall was built in 1867, and has a fine suite of public rooms. It took the place of the old Moot Hall, which was pulled down, to the great improvement of the Market- place. There is a flourishing Gram- mar Scliool. The trade of the town and neighbourhood is of a mixed character. There are paper-miUs, india-rubber works, an iron foundry, and flour-mills, which employ a con- siderable number of hands. The trade in hops, which has existed for centm-ies, has almost entirely died out. Route 17. — Sutton — Gringley. 103 Retford is a place of great au- tiquity. It is meutioued iu Domes- day as Redeford. The original Charter was probably granted by Richard I., and was renewed by Edward I. From the year 1571 it has been a parliamentary liorough. It was at one time notorious for corrupt practices, and in 1827 a bill was brought in to transfer the franchise to Birmingham. Instead of this, the franchise was extended to the whole hundred of Bassetlaw, the area of which exactly coincides with the parliamentary division formed in 1885. There are several fine coimtry seats in the neighbourhood. To the S., Grove Hall (E. E. Harcomt- Vernon, Esq.). To the N.W., Babworth Hall (Lieut.-Col. H. Denison), while the Dukeries and Sherwood Forest are within a drive of a few miles (see Rtes. 15 and 16). 21i m. Sutton (Stat.). The vil- lage, called Sutton-cmn-Lound, lies E. i m. The Ch., E. E. and Peq)., is large and handsome, and has been restored. W. of the line is Barnby Moor, where was one of the noted inns of the Noiih road ; it is now converted into private residences. 24^ m. Eanskill (Stat.), a town- ship of Blyth, which lies 2 m. W. The name is Danish, Ravenskelf, or " Hill of the Raven," probably alluding to some battle fought in the vicinity. 11 m. W. is Serlby Hall (Viscount Gal way), a square modern stuccoed mansion. It contains some fine paintings, comprising portraits of Henry VIII., and of Nicholas Kreut- zer, his astronomer, by Holbein; Charles Land his Queen, with horses, dogs, and a dwarf, by Daniel Mytens (this picture was given by Queen Aune to Addison) ; Charles I. and his Page, by Vandyclc (?) ; Lords Francis and William Russell ; Lady Catherine Manners and her children, and eight views of Venice by Cana- letto. The park is very prettily watered by the Rytou, which falls into the Idle near Bawtry. In the country E. of Ranskill, ex- tending to the river Idle, are several barrows, also a tumulus, called Bla- kow hill, and an earthwork, which is probably British. On the bank of the river, 2 m. from Ranskill, is the village of Mattersey, which formerly had an Abbey of Gilbert ine Canons, founded 1190, by Roger de Moresay. Some remains of the buildings arc worked up in a farmhouse, which bears the name of '■ the Abbej'." The Ch. (restored 1860) is Perp., with a square embattled towei', and in it are preserved carvings representing St. Martin dividing his cloak with a beggar, and the finding of the Cross by the Empress Helena ; they were found hidden under the pavement of the chancel in ISOl, on occasion of digging a grave. 2 m. E. of Mattersey is Clayworth, in the ch.-yard of which is the fol- lowing epitaph : — " Blest be he that set this stone, That I may not be forgotten; And curst be he that moves this stone ISelove that they be rotten." The Ch. was restored in 187-1-5. It contains a monument to a rector of 14-18, and a decorated tomb to Humphrey Fitzwilliam, who became a Judge in the Court of King's Bench in 1559. 2 m. N.E. of Clayworth, on the road to Gainsborough, is the village of Gringley, which stands on a hill, commanding a splendid view of the country round, extending as far as Lincoln Cathedral. The Ch. is E. E., with a N. aisle added in the ISth-cent. churchwarden style. The Beacon Hill was the site of an old Roman camp, and was also occupied by Prince Rupert in 16-li. » 26 ni. Scrooby (Stat.) is a neat 104 Boute 18. — Worhsop to Doncasier. small hamlet, once the residence of the Archbishops of York, though of their palace only a few fragments remain, built into a farmhouse, which is still called the Manor House. Leland describes it " as a great manor-place withyn a moat, and builded into courts, whereof the first is very ample, and all builded of tymbre, saving the front of brick." In the garden is a mulberry-tree said to have been planted by Cardinal Wolsey. Among the tenants of Scrooby in the time of Queen Eliza- beth was William Brewster, who here commenced the congregation of " Separatists," from which sprang eventually the Puritan settlements of New England. The Ch. of Scrooby is a fine E. E. edifice, with a square tower and lofty spire, which has been repeatedly damaged by light- ning. 27|iii. $Bawtry(Stat.). This is a small market town, on the river Idle, partly in Yorkshire. The Ch. is sup- posed to have been founded by De Busli, Lord of the Honour of Tick- hill, and builder of Blyth Priory. It consists of nave and aisles, but, except a Nonn. doorway on the N. side, has little of interest about it. There is an almshouse with a chapel, founded by the Morton family, who were long resident here, and who, continuing in the old religion, caused Bawtry to be regarded as " a dangerous nest of papists " when the Queen of Scots M'as confined at Sheffield Castle. Bawtry is on the Gi'eat North road, and it was here that the sheriff of Yorkshire anciently met royal per- sonages, and conducted them into his county. When Henry VIII. visited Yorkshire in 1541, after the rising known as " The Pilgrimage of Grace,"' he was met at Bawtry by " 200 gentlemen of the county in velvet, and 4000 tall yeomen and servingmen well horsed, who on their knees made a submission by the mouth of Sir Robert Bowes, and presented the king with 900Z." — Han. The line now enters Yorkshire, and, passing Rossington Stat., reaches at 36 m. Doncaster (Stat.). (See Bandhooli for Yorkshire.) ROUTE 18. WORKSOP TO DONCASTER, BY TICKHILL. [blyth AND ROCHE ABBEY.] BT ROAD. 17 m. At 8J m. N. of Worksop is the village of Carlton-in-Lindrick. It was one of the possessions of Roger de Busli at the Domesday Survey. The Ch. has some Nonu. and E. E. traces, and a Nonn. tympanum over the chancel doorway, also a bell prior to 1444. A small stream, which joins the river Ryton at Blyth, rises at WaJIimgweUs (Sir T. W. White, Bart.), I m. W. of Carlton Hall (R. J. Ramsden, Esq.). 5 m. On E. is an arched gate- way, formerly the entrance to the seat of the Cressys, and subsequently of the Cliftons, who succeeded the fomier in these estates about the 15th centy. A short distance beyond this, a road leads to the decayed market- town of Blyth (2J m.), passing Hod- sock Priory, tlie seat of Mrs. Mellish. A very beautiful Early Eng. chapel once existed here, to the S.W., but there are now no remains of it. Blyth is so called, according to the venerable topograplier John Norden, " a jocunditatc," which, says Fuller, '• I desire may be extended all over the shire, being confident that one ounce of mirth, with the same degree of grace, will serve God more than a pound of sorrow." It is well worth Bouie IS.— Blijth—TicJchill 105 a visit on account of its noble Ch., which belonged to a Benedictine priory, founded in the 11th centv. by De Busli, one of the most powerful of William the Conqueror's nobles, who held large possessions in Notts and Yorkshire. It is a fine building, consisting of a nave with a N. aisle of the original foundation, south porch (E. E.), a wide S. aisle enlarged in late 13th centy., with a ritual chancel, for the parish Ch., and a Hth-ccnty. W. tower: it formerly possessed, in addition, transepts, central tower, and apse, in which the choir of the monastic Ch. was included. At present the nave' ends in a blank wall, cutting off one compartment to the E., once converted into an aviary by a former owner of Blyth Hall, the grounds of which adjoin the Ch. It was formerly supposed that this wall was erected and the Ch. vandalised by Edward Mellish, who rebuilt the hall at the end of the 17th ceuty. But at the restoration of the Ch. (carefully done by C. Hodson Fowler) in 18S5, the remains of a fresco, sup- posed 15th centy., were discovered on this wall, together with a doorway through it, which had been before concealed by the INIellish monument, now removed into the N. aisle. This clearly showed that the monks had themselves built out the parish Ch. by turning their main chancel screen into a solid wall, as at Wymoudham. The remnant of another screen, with traces of painted figures, to the W. of this wall, i)roves that they had an altar, or probably altars, on this side. There is a fine screen in the S. aisle, dividing off the parish chancel, with painted iigures in the lower panels of St. Stephen, St. Euphemia, St. Edmund, St. Barbara, St. Ursula. The pillar and E. E. arcade, which formed the E. side of the lost S. transept, are seen in the E. wall of this parish chancel behind the altar. The town, though small, and de- prived of its market when the great North Road was made through Ket- ford and Bawtry, is very pleasantly situated, amid fine trees, on the little river Ryton. The schoolroom con- tains an E. E. doorway, which origi- nally belonged to a hospital sup- pressed in the 16th centy. ; a small part of the endowment still remains. Blyth Hall, partly built on the site of the priory (the cellar of the re- fectory remains), is a fine mansion, with picturesque grounds. Returning from Blyth to the main road At 7 m. the tourist turns W. into Yorkshire, the object of attraction being the ruins of Boche Abbey. The road passes Sandbeck Park (Earl of Scarborough) on N., and at 3 m. from the main road the sheltered valley is entered in which a small colony of Cistercian monks estab- lished themselves, literally ■' under the shadow of a rock," some time iu the reign of Stephen. Roche Abbey (which belongs to the Earl of Scarborough) is the fa- vourite resort of picnic-parties from the neighbouring towns ; its beau- tiful grounds, streams, lake, and pleasant walks always kept in good order, amply repay the numerous visitors for the trouble in reaching it. There is a small house in the grounds where stabling and refreshments may be obtained. (See Handbook for Yorlisliire.) 10 m. Tickhill, iu Yorkshire, a small market town, noted for the remains of its old castles. And at 17 m. is Doncaster (Stat.). (See Ha mlbook for Yorlsh ire.) 106 JRoute 19. — MarJcet Harhorough to Leicester. ROUTE 19. MARKET HARBOROUGH TO LEICESTER. MIDLAND KAILWAY. 16 HI. $ Market Harborough (Junct. Stat.) stands on the Wclland, S.S.E. from Leicester, and on the southern boundary. It has considerable busi- ness in brick and tile making, and a stay factory employs many hands. The Ch., dedicated to St. Dionysius the Areopagite, is a very handsome Perp. structure ; the stone of which it is built seemingly resists all the destructive effects of time upon it. Its lofty tower and very beautiful broach spire, erected entirely on the pyramidal principle from the bottom to the apex, is a feature in the town, to which it adds a beauty of its own. An old tradition has it that the Ch. was built by John of Gaunt, but the date forbids this. He njay, however, have contributed to alterations, still to be seen in the added clerestory. The building consists of two distinct portions, the chancel and tower, of the 13th centy., and the nave and aisles, a century later. In either aisle is a window of the 1-lth centy. ; and the pitch of the old nave is still visible in the tower. There are porches on the N. and S. sides, and over each is a chamber. Near the Ch. is the Grammar School, originally built in 1614, and endowed by Robert Smyth, a sub- treasurer of the city of London. The quaint-looking timber building, supported on pillars (the butter- market is held on the space beneath), has divers " godly sentences " painted on the projecting beams. It was completely restored in 1869. The School is successfully managed on a scheme approved by the Charity Commission, the Lord Mayor and Court of Aldermen of the City of London, in whom the endowment is invested, reserving the right of naming the Head-master. At a short distance is the old house in which Charles I. is said to have slept the night before the battle of Naseby ; it is now divided into three separate dwellings. Harhorough is believed to have been a British settlement as well as a Roman station, and some pottery has been found to justify this belief on the site of an old camp adjoining the town, but now built upon. The Ch. of St. Mary-in-Arden, in which is preserved a Norm, arch of the 11th centy., and connected with the town by many old and distinct ties before 1662. when the building fell during a storm, was the mother Ch. of Harhorough. In 1614 the Ch. of St. Mary and the chapel of St. Dionysius were united. Partly restored, it was. till 12 years ago, the chapel of the customary burial- ground. A new cemetery, however, was opened in 1879. [The Rugby and Peterborough Rly. passes through Market Harhorough, and by it the geologist should make an excursion to Nevill Holt (3 m. N.E. from the Ashley and Weston Stat, on that line), where there is an extensive bed of oolitic iron ore, similar to, and a continuation of, the bed in Northamptonshire. Nevill Holt Hall, an interesting old man- sion, situated on a hill, is the resi- dence of Sir Bache Cunard, Bart. The Ch. is Dec. with Perp. altera- tions, and contains some monuments to the Nevill family, who owned the Hall. 1636. The" village of Holt was long celebrated for its mineral spring (chalybeate), of which a ciu-ious account was written by Dr. Short in 1792. Medbourne (Stat.) is conjec- tured to have been a Roman station Boiite 19. — The Langtons — Ktbwortli. 10^ on the Via Devana from Colchester to Chester, from the fact that coins are so frequcutlv turned up in tlic tiekls by swiue as to liave earned the name of '•hog-money," and that a good Koman tesselated pavement was some years ago discovered in the village about 5 ft. below the surface. It is one day's Koman march from Leices- ter. The Ch. is E. B., with a tran- sept and double aisle on the S. side, also a couple of chantries. It was restored in 1880. 1 m. N W. of Nevill Hall is Blaston St. Giles, the Ch. of which contains an ancient chalice, supposed to be the one formerly belonging to the chapel attached to a hunting-seat of King Richard I. at Blaston.] ^ m. Langton (Stat.). A group of villages called The Langtons. consist of E. and W. Laugtou, Thorpe-Laugton, and Tur-Langton. In Tm--Langton is a well called King Charles's Well, from a tradi- tion that the monarch there watered his horse in his flight from the battle-field of Nascby. The Church is in E. Langton, and is esteemed the finest village Ch. in the county. It was originally Dec, probably built between 1320 and 1347 by two brothers of the name of Latimer, but in the next century a noble nave and tower were erected, and it is be- lieved that the builder was William Harwood, the designer of Fothering- hay (see Handbook for Northampton- shire). The place is of some celebrity in connection with the name of Wil- liam Hanbury, an enthusiastic clergy- man, who held the living in the early part of the reign of George III. He had great skill in planting and horti- culture, and several villages in the neighbourhood are indebted to his benevolent exertions in encouraging the cultivation of fruit-trees. When he came, in liis 2oth year, to Langton, he was much struck by the beauty of the Ch., and, as he said, " finding so noble a room provided, made it his business to decorate it," giving to that purpose the annual profits of some plantations and fruit-gardens that he had already established at Gumley and Tur - Langton, and which "were valued at 10,000?. His project being warmly talcen up by some of the neighbouring gentry, he soon enlarged it, and devised a scheme for replacing his church by a " Minster,"' which was to excel all existing cathedrals, and to have a central tower 493 ft. high. He also proposed to establish a number of schools, hospitals, &c., for the benefit of the population that he expected woidd gather round it. His project was too vast for any one man to accomplish, but he never lost faith in it, and by indefatigable industry he collected from various sources about 4000/., which at his death he left in the hands of trustees to accu- mulate till it reached the sum of 1000?. per annimi ; and this, in spite of the matter falling into Chancery, has of late years been done. A memorial to him has been placed in the vestry by the present vicar, his great-grandson. In 1854 the Han- bury trustees established free-schools for the Langtons, and in 1865 they accomplished the restoration of the Ch. in a most satisfactory manner, and a carved reredos in alabaster was added in 1890. The S. aisle con- tains an interesting monument to Sir Eichard Koberts, who died in 1644. 6 m. Kibworth (Stat.). The hand- some Dec. Ch., standing on a height, has a modern embattled tower, built in 1829, the old one having fallen down whilst in the course of repair a short time before. Dr. Aikin. the editor of the ' Monthly Magazine,' was born here in 1747. 3 m. N.E. is the village of Carlton Curlieu. whose inhabitants, according to Camden, were unable to pronounce tiie letter E, and were on that account called " Carleton wharlers ; " and Fuller 108 Boute 19. — Glen 3Iagna — Leicester. tells us of a Fellow of Trinity Col- lege, Cambridge, a native of Carlton, who made a long speech in which not a single R occurred. The Ch. (restored in 1880) contains an ala- baster tomb (date 1621) with the effigies of Sir John Bale and his wife, together with their 7 children. Ad- joining the village is Carlton Hall, a line Jacobean edifice. 8 m. Glen Magna (Stat.), a stock- ing-making village, remarkable for nothing but a reputation, accord- ing to the Leicestershire saying, of '• containing more dogs than honest men." 2 m. E. is Burton Overy. The Dec. and Perp. Ch. has been restored, and contains a very fine altar-screen. At the rectory is a noble oak, raised from an acorn from the famous tree at Boscobel. Near the line, on S., is the village of Wistow, with an E. E. Ch. containing monmnents of the Halford familv. Wistow Hall (Sii- H. St. John Hal- ford, Bt.) contains many portraits of George III., his family and friends, and the saddle and stirrups of Charles I., who passed a night at Wistow just before the battle of Naseby. 12 m. Wigston Junct. Stat. Near here the lines from Eugby (Etc. 25) and from Nuneaton (Rte. 20) fall in. Great AVigston (so called to distin- guish it from Little Wigston, a ham- let near Lutterworth) is a busy place, chiefly occupied with the hosiery trade. The modern Ch. of Ail Saints has a handsome tower and spire ; and the Ch. of St. Wolstan, long fallen into disuse, was restored in 1853. 2 m. W. is Oadby, a particularly neat and clean-looking village, a meet for the Quorndon hounds. The Ch., recently thoroughly restored, has a good tower and spire ; and the interior has several interesting monimients. On the opposite side of the line, on the river Soar, is Aylestone, the graceful spire of its Ch. being very conspicuous. Aylestone Hall (Col. J. Fryer) is an ancient building, well restored; it was a possession of the Manners' family, and the Duke of Eutland is still lord of the manor. Across the river is a farmhouse, occupying the site of Luhhesthorpe Abbey, of which some few fragments remain. The country between Market Har- borough and Leicester is not an in- viting one as far as scenery goes ; but it is celebrated for its hunting capabilities, the Pytchley, the Billes- don, and the Quorn hunts occupying all this side of Leicestershire, and it also contains several interesting vil- lage churches ; as Foxton, Sadding- ton, and Mowsley (all late E. E. or Dec), on the W. side of the line ; and Cranoe, Noseley, and Tilton, on E. Cranoe Ch. is a fine Perp. edifice, with memorials of the earls of Car- narvon. Noseley Ch. (once collegiate) has a splendid tomb for Sir Arthur Hasilrige, the regicide, and his wife and sister (NoseJeij Hall, Sir A. G. Hasilrigg, is very near). 16 m. $ Leicester (Stat.), the County Town There can be no doubt that Leicester has claims to a very ancient history, though we may not receive the tradition of its having been the residence of King Lear and his three daughters. It seems certain, however, that it was the Roman station of Ratce Coritanorum, various remains having been found to identify it. It was the seat of a Saxon bishopric, and was also one of the Five Burghs of the Danes ; and it claims the credit of having held out for a while against William the Norman. In 1173 the town was nearly destroyed, in consequence of the disaffection of the Earl of Leicester to the Crown, and the castle, together with that of Grobv (Rte. 24), was demolished. The castle was rebuilt, and remained a LEICESTER tValker ^ BoutatI sc. To/ace page 108. Route 10. — Leicester: Jewry Wall. 100 place of strength until the time of the Civil war; now only the great hall and the mound remain (see below). In May, 1645, Leicester was captm-ed by Charles I. by stonn, and given up to the licence of the troops, but was abandoned in less than a week after. Since that time the town has had no history more eventful than the ex- cesses of the machine-breaking mobs of 181 G, which were followed by several executions. The chief employment of Leicester for nearly 200 years has been stocking- making and knitting, and the town has long been noted as the centre of the hosiery trade. The trade was first commenced here in 1686, by one Alsopp, who. in the face of great diffi- culties and popular prejudice, erected a stocking-frame. This was nearly 100 years subsequent to the inven- tion of the stocking-loom by Mr. Lee of Woodborough (Rte. 11). In the reign of Queen Anne there was a corporation termed the '• Framework Knitters' Company," which Ixire for its anus a stocking-loom, supported on one side by a clergyman, and on the other by a female presenting a disused knitting-pin, in reference to the story of Lee and his wife. Other manufactories, however, are now ex- tensively carried on, especially that of boots and shoes and of elastic fabrics. Few even of the great manufac- turing towns in the North have in- creased more rapidly than Leicester has done of late years, and well-built suburbs occupy what were, at a com- paratively recent date, open fields. The main avenues of Gallowtree Gate, Humberstone Gate, Belgrave Gate, and High Street converge in the centre of the town, and there is an ornamental Clock-Tower erected by. Ordish,a. local architect. At its base are statues of fom- Leicester celebrities, viz. Simon de Montfort (1265), Wil- liam Wigston (1512), Sir Thomas White (1516), and Alderman Newton (1760). Closely adjoining is the Market-place, where are a handsome Corn Exchange and a statue of the 5th Duke of Kutland. Granby Street contains the Post Office, the Library and News-room, and the Temperance Hall — all buildings of merit. Of modern churches, that of St. Mark, the gift of the late Mr. Perry Herrick, is the most remarkable, both externally and internally. Dissenting cha])cls are numerous, and among them the Wesleyan chapel in Hiuuber- stoue Gate, by Ordish.a parti-coloured brick edifice, attracts attention by its very peculiar style of architec- ture. The Roman antiquities of Lei- cester are extremely interesting, and include the Jewry Wall, which is one of the most perfect remains of its kind in Britain. It closely ad- joins St. Nicholas Ch. As it at present stands, it is about 25 yards in length, and 5 or 6 in height, and consists of a western side (not open to view, forming the wall of a factory) and an eastern side, " containing several arched recesses, the soffits or vaultings of which are turned with comses of large flat bricks ; rows of these are likewise interspersed throughout the wall at intervals, as bonding - courses, and the Roman mode of constructing the arch with brickwork is here clearly displayed.'' According to Geoffrey of Mon- mouth, there was in Ratae a temple of Janus, and it may be remarked that these ruins bear a striking resem- blance in many ])oints to the ruins of one of the ancient temples of Rome. -^Bloxam. Other antiquaries con- sider that the waU formed part of the gateway of the Roman city, and that the street or road led over the old Bow Bridge on to the Fosse Way. Local examiners believe that it once formed the front of a temple, having 1 entrances, and that, wJten it fell into decay, the western side of the town-wall was Ituilt up alongside and 110 Moute 19. — Leicester: Tmon Hall. the portal made to correspond M'ith its two middle arches. — Thompson's Eandbooh of Leicester. The wall has been opened through half its length by the Leicestershire Archaeological Society to the original level of the Eonian way ; it has received some needful support, and is protected by iron railing. The footings of the piers are now visible, and it is quite evi- dent that the building or wall never came forward in an easterly direc- tion towards the church. These facts tend to strengthen the notion that the Jewry wall formed a portion of the western wall of Eoman Leicester. No less than 11 tesselated pave- ments have been found at different times in Leicester, one of which, of considerable size, represents possibly the myth of Cyparissus and the Stag. The visitor may inspect a fine one in situ in the cellar of a house in Jewry Wall Street, which has been acquired by the Corporation. " Thus, with her handmaid Sence, the Soar doth cas'ly slide By Leicester, where yet her ruins show her pride, Demolish'd many years, that of the great foundation Of her long huiicd walls men hardly sec the station ; Yet of some pieces found, so sure the cement locks The stones, that they remain like perdur- able rocks." — Drayton. The Roman mile-stone which was discovered on the Fosse Way near Thurmastou, in 1771, is now in the Museum. It is about 3i ft. liigh, and has an inscription to tlie Emperor Hadrian, with a notice that it was 2 miles from Eatse. The Rawdykes, near the junction of the Burton Ely. with the Swanniugton line, is sup- posed to be a corruption of Ehedagua, and to have been the site of the Eoman racecourse. The old houses of Leicester, timber- built and picturesque, have now almost entirely disappeared. The Blue Boar Inn, where Eichard III. slept on 21st Aug. 1485, the night before maixhing to Bosworth Field, was pulled down in 1836, and many buildings of like architecture have since been removed. The only me- morial of Eichard is a stone in a building close to Bow Bridge, the inscription on which asserts that he was buried near that spot. In High- street is a singular-looking domed structure (now a shoemaker's Avare- house), called the Brick Tower. The interior is of stone, and it is a frag- ment of the mansion of the Earls of Huntingdon. In the time of Eliza- beth it was called Lord's Place, and here Dudley, Earl of Leicester, was a frequent visitor. Mary Queen of Scots passed a night in it on her way to Fotheringhay ; and here also Nonconformist preachers were shel- tered after the passing of the Act of Uniformity (1662) by the pm-itanical Countess of Huntingdon. Bow Bridge, over which Eichard marclied to Bosworth Field, was pulled down in 1862 ; an iron bridge of the same name has taken its place. The old Town Hall, which is near St. Martin's Ch., is believed to have been the hall of a guild of Corpus Christi, but it was added to about 1586, as appears by a date on the wall. It contained portraits of Sir Thomas White and Henry, Earl of Huntingdon, both benefactors to the town. They are now placed in the Council Chamber of the Municipal Buildings. The Mayor's Parlour, adjoining, was built in 1636, is quaintly ornamented, and has some curious stained glass, presumed to be temp. Hen. VIII. The Library con- tained, among other curious matters, an early MS. of the New Testament, known as Codex Leicestrensis, and other valuable MSS.. now transferred to the Municipal Buildings. The Municipal Buildings, in the Queen Anne style, were commenced in 1871, and were erected at a cost of 51,000Z. Boute 19. — Leicester: Churches. Ill The Opera House, which is capable of seating 1*550 persons, was opened iu 1877. Of the Leicester churches,- St. Nicholas is the most ancient both in style and materials, the latter hav- ing been partly supplied from the stones of the adjoining Jewry Wall. It is an example of very early rude Norman, and was once cruciform ; it now consists of a nave, chancel, and north and south aisles (re- built), the transepts having been taken down at the end of the 17th ccnty. A square tower, with an in- tersecting arcade, rises between the nave and the chancel. There is a Norman doorway leading into the Ch. At the N. side are some blocked round-headed arches, and over them some small round-headed windows, now blocked, turned in Eoman brick. The adjoining ground is called " Holy Bones,"' in consequence, it is pre- sumed, of large nmubers of bones (of oxen ?) having being found here. On the S.E. side of the Ch.-yard is a timber- framed house with well-carved shafts and projecting spurs, which, according to a tablet affixed, afforded a night's lodging to John Bunyan and to John Wesley (1770). The restored Ch. of St. Mary de Castro is of very singular interest. It consists of two naves of equal length and a narrow N. aisle ; and has at the W. end a massive E. E. tower resting on noble arches and supporting a Dec. spire, built inside the S. nave, and standing independently of the walls of the ch. The N. nave was Norm., with narrow aisles, and terminated in a chancel of the same style, but without a chancel arch. The origi- nal windows exist in the chancel, and are very rich, as are the sedilia. an unusual feature in Norm, churches. The windows of the nave were built up when the S. nave was added, but may be traced in the wall. A very rich, E. E. clerestory was added in the 13th centy., but that to the S. aisle is now Perp. There is a rich Norm. N. door, and another, smaller and plainer, at the W. end, which serv^ed as an entrance from the castle. The S. porch is juodern E. E. The roofs and w'oodwork are all" rich and good, and the font, which is iu the tower, is rich E. E. ; the windows are filled with stained glass, and the simplicity of the arrangement of the parts and the beauty of each feature must secure the attention of the architectural student. In the S. chancel is a monmueut, conspicuous for its bad taste, to the Eev. Thomas Kobinson (d. 1813), the author of the once popular " Scripture Cha- racters." Closely adjoining the Ch. is the entrance to the Castle-yard (jyost). All Saints' Ch. consists of nave, aisles, and modern chancel. The windows are of an unpleasing fonn of Dec. (curvilinear, with plain in- tersecting mullions without cusps), common in the county. At the W. end is a Nonn. doorway, and at the E. end of the N. aisle is a curious clock, the hours of which are struck by figures with hanuuers. The tower is on the N. side, and opens to the Ch. by a narrow arch ; at the angles are buttresses, which seem to have been formed of old materials from the Norm. Ch. In the interior are a Perp. roof, a carved E. E. font, and hexagonal Perp. pulj)it. The Ch. was restored iu 1875. St. Martin's Ch. is a cruciform structure of great widtli, with a noble central tower raised on arches and sujiporting a fine broach spire erected in 1862 from a design by Brandon. A portion of the Norm, string-course of the former Ch. exists on the N. side of the N.W. tower pier. With the e.xception of the chancel, which is Perp., and has some *rich late sedilia, the Ch. is E. E., with inserted Dec. windows; the arcades are sin- 112 Route 19. — Leicester: Castle. gularly pleasing. An additional S. aisle as wide as the nave has been erected, which much enhances the beauty of the Ch.. and the wooden roofs are rich and good. The S. aisle, where the Archdeacon holds his court, once had a portrait of Charles I., painted by a native artist ; but this has been removed to the Town Museum. The E. end of the aisle was called Oiu* Lady's Chapel, and at the W. end was the Chapel of St. George. There is also a paintmg, once used as an altar- piece, by an artist named Vanni in 1563. To the N. of the chancel is Heyrick's Ch. or chapel, the burying- place of the Heyricks, an ancient Leicester family. What is now the vestry is believed to have been St. Catherine's Chapel. Abigail Swift. the mother of the Dean, was buried here in 1710. The restoration of the Church was completed in 1881. Close adjoining the Ch. formerly stood an ancient building, called "Wyggeston Hospital, which was erected by a Leicester alderman of that name in 1513. It has now been rebuilt on a new site at the junction of the Hinckley and Fosse Roads. A school now stands on the original site, the only vestige remaining of the old building beiug the sepulchral slabs from the chapel. A liouse in High-Cross Street, near the Ch., is traditionally said to have formed part of a chautry attached to St. Martin's, called " the Chantry of the Body of Christ," and founded temp. Edward. III. St. Margaret's Ch, occupies the site of the ancient Cathedral in the 8th centy., the bishopric having been subsequently removed to Dorchester, and then to Lincoln. Of this Ch. Leland writes, — " S. Margaret's is thereby the fairest paroch chirch of Leicester, wher ons was cathedrile chirch, and thereby the Bishop of Lincoln had a palace, whereof a little yet standeth." It is of later date than the other Leicester churches. The chancel is fine Perp.. with a rich screen and stalls of the same date ; but the nave arcade is E. E. The Ch. consists of nave, aisles, and chancel, with an embattled Perp. tower, more than 100 ft. high. The interior has E. E. pillars dividing the nave from the aisles. Notice the Perj). E. window, also the carved niches. One of these was once occu- pied by a figure of the Virgin, sup- ported by a figure said to be intended for Robert Bossu, Earl of Leicester, and founder of the Abbey ; the other contained St. Margaret, the patron saint of the Ch. On the N. side of the chancel is the beautifidly-vested and unmutilated alabaster efBgy of John Penny, Bp. of Carlisle, and formerly abbot of Leicester (d. 1520). It is on a new pedestal. The Castle, where the county busi- ness is transacted, adjoins St. Mary's Ch. (ante), and is said to have been founded or restored by EtheKreda in 914, probably as the residence of the Earls of Leicester. It is but a small portion of the ancient building, con- cealed behind a modern brick front, and consists of the great Assize Hall, in which several Parliaments have been held, viz., in 1414, 1426, and 1450. At the S. end are 2 fine and lofty Norm, windows and a door of the same date. '• Originally it was a large apartment, with aisles formed by two rows of oak pillars supporting the roof, 5 on each side, 30 ft. high, with carved capitals. Only one of them now remains entire." It is now divided into two courts by modern walls and passages. Close adjoining is the Mount, an artificial earthwork, on which stood the keep of the castle ; it has been consider- ably lowered, and is now occupied by a bowling-green, access to which can be gained through an inn at its foot. A portion of the walls that enclosed the courtyard ran round the Mount, Houte 19. — Leicester: Abhe]/. 113 aud may still be seen. la the 14th ceuty. an additional area, culled the New Work, or Newarke, was added to this courtyard by Henry Earl of Lancaster and Leicester, the father- in-law of John of Gaunt, and was con- nected with the former enclosure by a turret gateway, still existing, aud worth notice. The Newarke is entered from Oxford Street, by another gate- way, of massive proportions, forming part of a building called the Maga- zine, from the circumstance that the arms of the trainbands were formerly kept in it ; it is now the Militia storehouse. Of contemporary date with the Newarke, aud on the N. side of it, is Trinity Hospital, also founded by Henry of Lancaster, for 50 old men and 5 women as their nurses. The present front, however, is of the date of George IH. At the E. end is the chapel, which con- tains the elaborate monument of Mary de Bohun. first wife of Henry IV. The E. window is of 4 lancets. which is very unusual. A curious wooden alms-box, with a quaint in- scription, and the date 1579. may be noticed. Opposite the Hospital stood a beautiful Ch. dedicated to " our Lady of the Newarke,"' by the same founder, ■s\here he and his father, Constance the 2nd wife of John of Gaunt, and other noble persons, were interred ; but not a vestige remains of it, above ground. The Charities of Leicester are very numerous. The tourist should visit the New Walk at the S.E. end of the town, an exceedingly pleasant promenade of half a mile in length, with an avenue of trees. Notice the statue of the Rev. Robert Hall. Here is the Town Museum, founded in 1849 by the joint exertions of the Leicester Literary and Philosophical Society and the Town Council. The build- ing is in classic style, with a heavy ^Derby, etc] portico. Extensive alterations and additions were made in 1891. It is open, free, every day, and is well worth a visit. In the grounds are two Russian guns. The Museum contains the Roman milestone (^ante) and some tesselated pavements, also a good collection of fossil remains, principally from the Lias and Rhastic formations in the quarries of Barrow- on-Soar. In the Zoological Depart- ment is a well-arranged collection of birds. The School of Art, the Lec- ture Hall, erected 1876. and Art Gal- lery (1891). in which are some good pictures, adjoin the Museum. The remains of Leicester Abbey, now the property of the Earl of Dysart, lie to the N. of the town, on the bank of the Soar. The walls of the pre- cinct- are all that exist, aud they now enclose a nursery-ground, in which is a fragment of a mansion erected by one of the Cavendishes after the suppression of the abbey. The walls that overhang the river are rough and ivy-clad, aud have a very picturesque appearance from the meadows on E. ; the W. wall is of brick, in better condition, and at the S.W. angle is a very handsome niche, supposed to be part of the work of Bishop Penny. In 1143 Robert de Bellomont, known as le Bossu, Earl of Leicester, founded here a monastic establish- ment of Black Canons, which was afterwards enlarged by his daughter- in-law Petronilla. of whom it was said that after her death a plait of her hair was used to suspend the chapel lamp. The abbey speedily became famous for its riches and its influence, many of its abbots sitting in Parlia- ment. It was, however, more cele- brated for its visits from royal per- sonages, who, in their progresses northward, frequently lodged here. Here also (1530) died Cardinal Wolsey, who arrived a heJijless in- valid, on his way from York to Lon- don, and entered the abbev never 114 Houte 20. — Nuneaton to Leicester. to leave it. This incident is thus related by Shakespeare : — ' 'At last with easy roads he came to Leicester, Lodged in the abbey; vhiie the reverend abbot, Witli all his convent, honourably received him ; ^ t-. i_ To whom he gave these words—' Father Abbot, An old man, broken with the storms of state, Is come to lav his weary bones among ye ; Give him a little earth for cliarity ! ' So went to bed, when eagerly his sicknoss Pursued him still ; and three nights after this, About tlie hour of eight (which he himself Foretold should lie his last), full of repent- ance, Continual meditations, tears, and sorrows. He gave liis honours to the world again, His blessed p-rt to heaven, and slept in peace." — Iltiiry VIII. The Abbey Park was opened in 1882 by the Prince and Princess of "Wales as a public recreation ground. The excursion to the abbey may be prolonged for 1 m. to Beaumont Leys, remarkable for its beautiful curved avenue. KOUTE 20. NUNEATON TO LEICESTER, BY HINCKLEY. [BOSWORTH FIELD.] L. AND N.--W. KLY. 19J HI. The Leicester branch of this line furnishes accommodation to the loom districts to the S.W. of Leicester. From Nuneaton (Ilandhooli for War- wickshire) the line runs to Hinckley, crossing about halfway the Waiting Street, in its course to Manvesse- dunura (Mancetter), which, for a con- siderable distance, forms the boundary between Leicestershire and Warwick- shire. 41m. $ Hinckley (Stat.), a busy manufacturing town, the chief occupa- tion of which is coarse cotton stocking making and shoes. It is divided into two liberties, the Borough and the Bond, and has many good houses and two churches. Its situation on an elevated table-land is very fine, and the views extensive, more than 50 churches being believed to be visible. A strong castle was founded here by Hugh de Greutraesnil in the reign of William Eufus ; but it was in ruin in Leland's time, and a part of the site is now occupied by the house of the steward of the Crown manor, the town being part of the possessions of the duchy ot Lan- caster ; the castle ditch, however, may still be traced. Of the Prior ij founded in the 12th cent., by Robert Blauchemains, Earl of Leicester ("so called from the whiteness of his hands "), nothing is left. St. Marys Ch., a fine early Perp. building, has the peculiarity of being broader than it is long. It has a lofty tower and spire, and its roof of carved oak is very handsome. It was restored in 1881, when the old E. window, and many objects of interest, were ruthlessly destroyed. There is a brass for a lady, 15th centy, ; and a monument with painted bust, which reminds the visitor of the Shake- speare bust at Stratford-on-Avon. — M. H. Bloxam. " Mr. William Iliffe introduced a stocking-frame, which is said to have cost GO?., into Hinckley, as early as IGIO, and with this single frame, which, by the aid of an apprentice, he kept constantly working day and night, he gained a comfortable sub- sistance for his family ; his immediate descendant, Mr. Joseph Iliffe, after having carried on the manufacture there with considerable success, died in 1795, aged 76." [An Excursion may be made by road to Bosworth Field from Hinck- ley (4 m.), the way lying through the villages of Stoke Gelding (Stat.), in which may still be seen the house which tradition says that Eichmond lioiUe 20. — Marlcd-Bosicortli. 115 slept on the night after the battle (notice the handsome restored Ch., mainly Dec.), and Dadlington, in the ch.-yd. of which many of the dead from the field of Bosworth were buried. The spot may also be reached by rly. from Nuneaton (7 m.). The field of battle, where Eichard III. was defeated and killed, Aug. 22, 1485. by Eichmond, is situated nearly in the centre of a lozenge-shaped area, of which the angles are Market- Bosworth, Shentou, Dadlington, and Sutton Cheney, and is traversed by the Ashby-de-la-Zouch Canal. The White Moor, where Eichmond's force emcamped the night before the battle, is about f m. to the S. of Shenton (Stat.), while Eichard en- camped on Eed Moor, on the banks of. the little stream between Dad- lington and Stajjleton. The battle was fierce, but brief ; its issue being determined by the defection of the Stanleys and their followers. Eichard killed Brandon, his opponent's standard-bearer, unhorsed Sir John Cheyney, and was furiously seek- ing to encounter Eichmond himself, when he was borne to the ground and slain. The vivid picture of the battle presented by Shakespeare may well be quoted. (Richard III. Act V. Scene 4.) Catesby exclaims to Norfolk :— " Kcscue, my lord of Isurfulk, rescue, rescue ! Tlie king enacts more wonders than a man, J'aring an oppesite to every danger; His horse is slain, and all on foot he fights, Seeking fur Hichmond in the throat of death ; Rescue, fair lord, or else the day is lost ! " Eichard then rushes in, exclaiming "A horse! a horse! my kingdom for a horse ! " Catesby, thinking that he meditates flight, replies, "Withdraw, my lord, I'll help you to a horse ; " • but is silenced by the furious excla- mation, " Slave, I have set my life upon a cast. And 1 will stand the hazard of the die ! 1 ihiidc there be six Kichoionds in the field ; I'ive have 1 slain to-day, instead of him. A horse ! a horse I my kingdom fur a horse ] The loss on Eichard"s side was about 1000 men, including himself, the Duke of Norfolk, Lord Ferrers, Sir Eichard Eadcliff, and Sir Eobert Brackenbury. Catesby was taken prisoner, and beheaded. Eiclunonds loss is said not to have been more than 100 ; but it must be remem- bered that we have only Tudor chroniclers. Eicbard's crown being found on the field of battle, Eichmond was invested with it at once by Lord Stanley. " Courageous Richmond, wtU hast thou acquit thee ! Lo, here, these long-usurped royalties, From the dead temples of this bloody wretch, Have I pluck'd off, to grace tby brows w ithal ; AVeav it, enjoy it, and make much of it." A well on the field of battle, at which it is said Eichard refreshed himself, is still called King Eichard's Well. It was cleared out and re- stored in 1812 by Dr. Parr, who wrote a Latin inscription for it. There is also a spot known as " Dickon's Nook," which is evidently connected with the same monarch : — " Jockey of Norfolk, be not so bold, For Dickon tby master is bought and sold." Overlooking the field of battle is Shmton Hall {F. E. A. Wollaston, Esq.), built in 1629 by William Wollaston. a member of that ancient family, who acquired great wealth in London. 2 m. to the N. is the little towu of Market-Bosworth (Stat on the Ashbyand Nuneaton line). The 67i., a Pcrp. building with tower and lofty spire, has been restored ; it (outains a curious font. Jjosn-orfh Park (C. N. L. Tollemachc Scutt, Esq.) adjoins tlie town. Sim])sou the 1 2 116 Boute 21. — Leicester to Melton Mowbray. mathematician was boru here in 1710 ; and Salt the Abyssinian tra- veller was educated in the Grammar School, founded by one of the Dixies, where Dr. Johnson was once usher, but soon became disgusted with the drudgery. 4 m. N.W.. and near Shackerston Stat., is Gopsall Hall, the seat of Eaid Howe. The house, whicli was built by Charles Jennens, the friend of Handel, at a cost of 100,000Z., has a fine Corinthian front of ISO ft. in length, with a portico in the centre. The S. front has a pediment, which bears in relief a ship in a storm, introduced to coimnemorate the naval victories of Lord Howe. Some original music by Handel, who during his residence here composed part of the ' Messiah ' and ' Israel in Egypt,' is preserved, as also the 4 first editions and many of the quarto plays of Shakespeare. In the library is a stained-glass window, the work of the Baroness Howe, the daughter of the Admiral. The chapel is fitted up with cedar of Lebanon, except the carved legs of the altar, which are of Boscobel oak ; the altarpiece is the Crucifixion, by Vandycli. Among the paintings are, — Infant Jesus Sleeping, Murillo ; Landscape, Claude ; Cattle. P. Potter ; Views in Venice, Cancdetto; Angel restoring sight to Tobit, Remhrandt ; a full-length portrait of Handel, by Hudson. The lodge was erected by Sir J. Wyattville, after the model of the Arch of Constantine. The deer-park is 500 acres in extent, and contains 300 deer.] 7J m. Elmesthorpe (Stat.). The country about here is low and marshy, traversed by the little river Nar, a tributary of the Soar ; many rare aquatic plants are found here. In this place Eichard III. is said to have passed the night before the battle of Bosworth, whilst other accounts make him encamp on the field. For many years the tower only of the Ch. remained, large trees growing within the ruined walls ; for- tunately this has been now remedied, and the edifice again fitted for divine worship. 2 m. N. is the hosiery village of Earl Shilton, the Ch. of which has been restored, and the in- terior decorated with frescoes by the late incmnbent (Rev. F. E. Tower). The mound remains of a castle built by the Bellomont Earls of Leicester, whence the name. 9| m. Croft (Stat.). A pleasant village, situated on a syenite rock, with a quarry employing a large number of hands. 12 J m. Narborough (Stat.). Here is a Ch. of various dates, with a mas- sive tower, E. E. sedilia and piscina. It has recently been restored, and is well worth a visit. 16 m. Blaby (Stat.), a busy place, the inhabitants of which are chiefly occupied in framework-knitting and boot and shoe making. Blaby Hall is the residence of Mrs. Allen. 16 m. Wigston (Glen Parva Stat), (see Ete. 19). The military depOt, a large red brick building, adjoins the Ely. 19i m. LEICESTER (Stat.) (Etc. 19).- ROUTE 21. LEICESTER TO MELTON MOWBRAY AND OAKHAM. MIDLAND ELY. 26 m. Proceeding on the main line as far as 4A m. Syston (Junct. Stat.), and then turning off on the rt. Syston is lioute 21. — Hcarshj — Melton Mouhrai/. 117 a populous village, partly occupied by stockiug-makers, but having also malthouses and gypsum quarries. The Ch., restored 18Sl, is large, with a square 15th-cent. tower. Here the Leicester and Peterborough branch runs off on E., and ascends the valley of the Wreak, being seldom far distant from the river. Many of the villages along the route will be noticed as having their names terminating in "by,"' an evidence of Danish occu- pation. 1 m. E. is Queniborough, a pleasant-looking village, which has a restored Dec. Ch. with lofty spire. Prince Eupert had his head-quarters here at the siege of Leicester in l(j45. 7i m. Rearsby (Stat.). The vil- lage is a pretty rural-looking place, showing that the manufacturmg dis- trict has been left behind. Notice the small 14th-cent. bridge leading to the Ch. 2 m. W. is Eatcliffe on the Wreak. Here is a Koman Catholic College, built by Fiigin. mainly at the e.xpense of the Duchess di Sforza, who is lady of the manor. Her grandfather, the 8th Earl Ferrers, added a tower and spire to the parish Ch. The Fosse Way traverses the parish, and there is a large barrow, called Shipley Hill, 40 ft. high. 8J m. Brooksby (Stat.). This is an agricultural parish, of very small population. The Ch. contains monu- mental effigies of the ViUiers, to- gether with some old stained glass. Brookslnj Hall was fonnerly the seat of that family, and was the birth- place of " Steenie." I m. N. is Hoby, a primitive-look- ing village, but with a well-cared- for Ch. ; and 2 m. farther N. at Bagdale (properly, Wreakdale) is a farmhouse, once the residence of the Earls Ferrers, whose arms are to be seen carved in the dining-room. II m. Frisby (Stat.). Here are an E. E. Ch.. dedicated to St. Thomas Becket, one tolerably perfect stone cross, and the remains of another, known as the Stump. There is also an E. E. Ch. in the adjoining parish of Rotherby. 12 m. Asfordby (Stat.). The vil- lage contains nothing calling for notice: but Af^fonlhy Hall (B. E. A. Cochrane, Esq.) is a handsome building in the Italian style. 4 m. N. is Wartnahy Hall (T. M. Turner-Farley. Esq.), where Charles IL. while on a royal progress, took breakfast with Mr. Hacket, the then owner. Kettleby Ch., a short distance E., has some interesting Norm, details, and monuments to the family of Digby At 13 m. is Kirby Bellars, where was once an Augustiniau priory. The Ch. is large and handsome, with tower and lofty spire. Kirhy Park, a hunting-seat of the Burdett family, is now a farmhouse. 15 m, $ Melton Mowbray (Stat. Also a Stat, on the L. & N.-W. and G. N. Elys, joint line). This is the Utopia of hmiting-men who will find in the accommodation for man and beast, the famous packs in the neighbourhood, and the cha- racter of the country, everything that they could wish for. Hunting is the great employment of Melton during the season, although it is celebrated in a minor degree for itfl Stilton cheese and pork-pies ; of the latter upwards of three tons a week are sent away by rail. Melton ob- tained its appellation of Mowbray from the barons of that name dmriug the Norman era. The original grantee under the Conqueror was Geoffry de Wirce, from whom the lands passed to Nigel de Albini, who took the name of Mowbray, and transmitted the estates to a line famous for ages for their states- 118 JRoutc 2 1 . — Burton-Lazars. mauship and military renown. Wil- liam de Mowbray, the 4tli Baron, took a very prominent part in ob- taining Magna Charta from King John. A Cluniac cell once existed here, subject to the Priory of Lewes in Sussex, which at the Dissolution was granted to Dudley, Earl of War- wick, but of this there are no remains. St. Mary's Ch. is a cathedral in miniature, consisting of nave, aisles, chancel, transepts, and a tower rising from the intersection. A great mix- tm-e of styles is apparent ; the W. front, the lower stage of the tower, the four central piers and arches, and some remains of capitals, being of E. Eng. date. The S. transept is rather later, as are the nave and chancel, the latter dating about 1320. Both transepts have aisles. The upper portion of the tower and the clerestory are Perp. The visitor should particvdarly notice the beautiful porch at the W. end, with its doorway and 8 niches ; it is of the time of Edward II. The clerestory also is extremely graceful, and contains 48 windows, each of 3 lights. The nave is sepa- rated from the aisles by G pointed arches with clustered columns. The W. window, of 5 lights, is parti- cularly fine. There is a tomb in the S. aisle, with a recumbent cross- legged figure, which an inscription tells lis is Lord Hamon Belers, brother of Lord Mowbray ; but Mr. North, in his paper on the Mowbrays (in the ' Transactions of the Leicestershire Antiquarian So- ciety '), has shown that this can hardly be, as Hamon died at least 100 years before the Ch. was built. Another tomb of Purbeck marble, once had a brass, and there is a curious brass, on which is inscribed a heart, placed by Bartholomew Gon- son, vicar of the Ch., in 15-13, in memory of his parents. Since 1850 the [work of restoring this noble Ch. has-been carried on, with satisfactory results, and some good carved stalls have been erected in the chancel. There are several modern painted windows, some^of which are very fine. There are several chained books dating from the time of Elizabeth. Opposite the Ch. is the Maison Dieu, or " Hudson's Bede-house,"' built 1611 ; it has several aged in- mates, but a part of the building is used as a Museum and Librarij. In the Eoman Catholic chapel, a work of Pugin, some good stained glass may be seen. Among natives of Melton may be named John de Kirby, a justice itinerant, temp. Hen. III. ; WiUiam de Melton, Archbishop of York (d. 1310) ; and Orator Henley (b. 1692), who was also curate here. Near the town is Egerton Lodge, the hunting residence of the Earl of Wilton. I5 m. S. from Melton is the village of Burton-Lazars, so called from its once possessing " a rich hospital, to the master of which all the lesser lazar-houses in England were in some sort subject, as he himself was to the master of lazars in Jerusalem. It is said to have been built at first by the Normans, by a general collection throughout England, but chiefly by the assistance of the Mow- brays, about which time the leprosy (by some called Elephantiasis) did run by infection all over England. And it is believed that the disease did then first come into this island out of Egypt, which more than once had spread itself into Europe ; first in the days of Pompey the Great, afterwards under Heraclius, but never before that time did it appear in England." — Camden. A bath famous for the cure of scrofulous diseases was opened here in 1760, but owing to the well having become dried up, is now disused. Traces of the hospital site are visible near the Ch., which has a rather curious bcll-turrct, that appears to have been Boute 22. — MarJcct Harhorough to NewarJc. 119 erected with the view of securing a failing western wall. The nave is Trans.-Norm., and the aisles are decorated, Thorpe - Arnold, a small village 1 J m. N.E., had once a castle, built hy Arnold de Blois. of which no trace re- mains. The font in the Ch. is Norm. [The Midland line to Nottingham proceeds in a N.W. direction, passing through the charming Leicestershire and Nottingham Wolds, and has Stats. at Grimston, Old Dalby, in Leicester- shire, Upper Broughton, Widmerpool, Plumtree, and Edwalton in Notting- hamshire. At Willoughby-on-the- Wolds (2 m. W. of Upper Broughton) are seven fine momunents to the Wil- loughby family.J 19 m. Saxby (Stat.). To the S. of the line is Stapleford Hall (James Hornsby, Esq.), on the banks of the river Eye. The front of the house, which is of different dates (from 15U0 to 1776), has square-headed mullioned windows, and is decorated with 15 statues of ancestors of the Sherards, Earls of Harhorough, among whom William the Conqueror figures. The Cli. is indifferent Gothic, rebuilt 1783, and has the Sherard and other arms outside. In the interior are some Sherard monmuents from the old Ch., witli a brass to Geoffrey and Joyce Sherard, with 11 children (111)0).' 21J m. Whissendine (Stat.), in Eutland. H m. N.E. is Wymondham, with a handsome Ch. in E. E. style. It has a fine spire. 3J m. further is Buckminster, where the Perp. Ch. (restored ISSIi) with a massive tower and s})irc deserve notice. In the ch.- yd. is the mausoleum of the Dysart family. Bncliminster Hall (Earl of Dysart) is a classic edifice. 26 m. Oakham (Stat.), see Ilund- to Eutland. ROUTE 22. MARKET HARBOROUGH TO NEWARK. L. AND N.-W. AND G. N. JOINT ELY. 46f m. On leaving Market Harhorough (see Rte. 19) the line runs in a northerly direction to 7 m. Hallaton (Stat.). The Ch. of St. Michael has some early Norm, arches in the nave, an E. E. chancel, and a Perp. tower. There is an ancient cross, where the market was formerly held. Near the village are the remains of an encampment, called Hallaton Castle Hill. A branch line joins the Pugby and Peterborough Rly. (see Rte. 19). 9 m. East Norton (Stat.), a small village on the Rutland border and on the main road from Leicester to Up- pingham. The Manor House (J. H. Heycock, Esq.) is a fine building in Tudor style. Loddington Hall, li m. N., is a hunting-box of Earl of Morton. 13J m. Tilton (Stat.). The village stands on a hill li m. W. from the Rly. The 12th-ce'nty. Ch., with an embattled tower and tall spire, has a tomb with effigies of Sir John Digby and his wife, dated 12G9, and another to Sir Everard Digby (1509). On Howbank Hill are remains of a Roman Station. At Billesdon, 2 m. S.W., there is another camp occupying several acres. The village is irregular and scattered, which has givtn rise to the Leicestershire proverb : " In and out like Billesdon." It is situ- ated on a small stream, called Boidc 22. — Loschy—Croxton Kyriel 120 the Billesdon Brook, celebrated iu hunting annals as the scene of a tremendous leap by Assheton Smith. The village was once a market-town, and the cross remains ; the Ch. has a lofty spire. There is a free school, built in 1650, in the place of one in which it is said that both Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, and George Fox, the Quaker, were educated. Near Billesdon is the CojAoiv (Mrs. Freer), close by which is a very noted fox-cover. Laund Ahhey and With- cot Hall, both fine Elizabethan man- sions, lie to the E. of the Ely., on the borders of the county. The former contains some remains of the religious house founded by Richard Bassett in 1125. [At Marefield Jvinction, 1 m. N. from Tilton, a branch line of the G. N. Ely. goes off W. to Leicester. li m. Loseby, or Lowesby (Stat.). The Ch., restored 1868, has a very old font, the remains of a screen, and some ancient monuments. Loschy Hall (Sir F. T. Fowke, Bart.), stand- ing in a wooded park, was anciently a possession of the Burdett family. A legend says that William Bur- dett. " on his" return from the Cru- sades, urged by the slanders of some miscreant retainer, slew his innocent and unsuspecting lady ; to atone for which fatal error he founded the monastery of Anov.-."—Bur];e. The Hutchinsous afterwards held Loseby, and Mrs. Hutchinson here wrote a great part of her Memoir of her husband. A portrait of Gen. Ire- ton still exists. Passing Quenhy Hall (Viscount Downe), the Ely. at 5 m. reaches Ingarsby (Stat.). The old Hal), now a farm-house, contams some good carved woodwork. At 7 m. is Thurnby (Stat.), and 9 m. Humberstone (Stat.) the Ely. then reaches Leicester, 11 m] Continuing N. the line passes 16§ m. Twyford, with a Stat, named John 0"Gaunt. The Ch., restored in 1849, is E. E. This district S. of Melton Mowbray is interesting, owing to its containing many villages which in name and remains betoken their Eoman origin. The chief of these is Burrow, or Burrough-on-the-Hill, 11 m. N.E., where portions of the walls of a large encampment, 20 ft. high, still exist. The Ch., too, is interesting, and possesses some in- scribed bells and a monument of the 15th centv. to Sir William Stockton and his wife. There is also a fine 12th-centy. font. At 20 m. is Great Dalby (Stat.), and at 2S^ m. Melton Mowbray is reached (see Ete. 21). 26^ m. Scalford (Stat.). The vil- lage takes its name from the ford over the river Scald. The Ch. is a hand- some 18th-centy. edifice, built of stone, with a square tower ; there are traces of Norm, work in the chancel. 12 m. N.E. is Goadby Marwocd. The Ch., in mixed styles, contains some good tracery in the windows. Francis Peck, the'historian (d. 1743), is buried here. The Hall is a fine mansion. From Scalford a branch line for mineral traffic to Waltham- on-the-Wolds, which has a large and handsome (restored) cruciform Ch., E. E. and Dec, with lofty central tower and spire. It contains some carved stalls and a good font. The original frame of the hour-glass is still fixed to the pulpit. Croxton Kyriel, 4 m. N.E., once famous for its house of Praemonstraten- sian canons, built here in the reign of Henry II. by Sir Andrew Luttrell, but at present better known for the Croxton Park Paces, held annually in the park of the Duke of Eutland, who had at one time a hunting seat here, now pulled down. About 3 m. to the E. is Saltby Heath, on which Iloitie 23. — Leicester to Burton. 121 are the rcmuins of 2 barrows and a singular earthwork, consisting of a wide ditch, running parallel with a vallum formed of the earth excavated from it. This is called King Lud's Intrenchment, and is in all probability Danish. Between Croxton and Grantham is Harlaxton Manor (see Uandbooh to Lincolnsltire). 28§ m. Long Clawson (Stat.)- The village lies at the foot of the Wold Hills, on the river Symte. The Ch. of St. Kemigius is a "tine Perp. build- ing. 3U m. Harby and Stathern (Junct. Stat.). Here a line branches off to Nottingham, passing Barnston (Stat.), Bingham Road (Stat.), and joining the Nottingham and Gran- tham Rlv. before reaching Kadcliffe (see Ete. 12). 35i m. Redmile (Stat.). This is the nearest Stat, to Belvoir Castle (see Ete. 12), and after crossing the Nottingham and Grantham Ely. at Bottesford (see Ete. 12), the line passes Gotham, and reaches at 46f m. Newark (see Ete. 11). ROUTE 23. LEICESTER TO BURTON, BY ASHBY-DE-LA-ZOUCH. MIDLAND RAILWAY. 30^ m. This route skirts the forest of Charnwood at too great a distance to give any good idea of the romantic character of that district. The tourist is therefore advised to sup- plement it by a walk or drive through the Forest, as hereafter indi- cated. (Ete. 24.) On leaving Leicester from the main stat the line at first runs S. for about 2 m.. and turns W., passing i?r«M/ts