invD-j F-CAllFC HAND-BOOK GARDEN & GREENHOUSE CULTURE TASMANIA. SECOND EDITION, REVISED AND ENLARGED. Casmaraa : HOBART : J. WALCH AND SONS. LAUNCESTON : WALCH BROTHERS AND BIRCHALL. 1884. PRINTED AT "THE MERCURY" OFFICE, HOBART. J. WALCH & SONS', AND WALCH BROS. & BIRCHALL'S CATALOGUE OF STANDARD WORKS, FOR The Farm, the Garden, the Country and Mural Sports. CasselVs Six Great Books. 1. The Book of the Horse : Thorough-bred, Half-bred, Cart-bred, Saddle and Harness, British and Foreign : With Hints on Horsemanship, the Management of the Stable, Breeding, Breaking, and Training for the Road, the Park, and the Field. By Samuel Sidney, Manager of Agricultural Hall Horse Show. With TWENTY-FIVE FAC- SIMILE Coloured Portraits of Horses, and 100 Wood Engravings. Handsome Quarto Vol. Cloth, Extra. 35/. " It is a large subject appropriately treated in a large book a book not only of the horse, thorough-bred, half-bred, and cart- bred, but of everything connected with him ; how to BREED him, REAR him, and TKAIN him ; how to FEED him, GROOM him, DOCTOR him ; how to BIT him, SADDLE him, HARNESS him ; how to RIDE him, how to DRIVE him ; how to BUY him, and indirectly how to SELL him." - The Times. 2. Dairy Farming. By PROFESSOR SHELDON, assisted by Eminent Authorities. With 25 COLOURED PLATES specially prepared for the Work, and Original Wood Engravings, showing the Processes employed in England, Europe, and America. Handsome Quarto Volume. Cloth, Extra. 35/. "The Author writes with the authority of personal experience as a dairy farmer ; he shows extensive knowledge, not only of the history of the dairy trade, but of all the improvements introduced by modern systems both at home and abroad ; and he has been assisted, besides, by competent contributors, who have supplied any deficiencies in his own information. The book is illustrated with a profusion of coloured plates, showing celebrated specimens of the different breeds of cattle, and by diagrams of model farm steadings and cattle sheds, with drawings of agricultural imple- ments and dairy utensils." The Times. 11GG294 A 3. Dog, The Illustrated Book of the. By VERO SHAW, B.A. With Fac-simile COLOURED PLATES (Drawn from Life), and Numerous Wood Engravings. Embracing a Full Description of EVERY KNOWN BREED OP DOG, with the Standard by which he can be judged. Handsome Quarto Volume. Cloth, Extra. L " An invaluable book of reference. Mr. Shaw evidently knows hia subject practically as well as in theory The volume should find its place upon the shelves of the library in every country house." Observer. 4. Poultry, The IHustrated Book of. By LEWIS WRIGHT. A Complete Practical Treatise on the Breeding, Bearing, and Management of every known variety of Poultry. Illustrated with FIFTY COLOURED PORTRAITS OP PRIZE BIRDS, painted from Life, and Numerous WOOD ENGRAVINGS. Handsome Quarto Volume. Cloth, Extra. 35/. "Never before has so extensive an amount of information, coupled with such accuracy, been brought together ; while the style in which the book has been sent out really leaves nothing to be desired." Morning Post. " Far and away the finest book that has ever been published upon Poultry." Glasgow Herald. 5. Pigeons, The Illustrated Book of. By ROBERT FULTON. Assisted by the most Eminent Fanciers. Edited and arranged by LEWIS WRIGHT. Illus- trated with FIFTY LIFE-LIKE COLOURED PLATES, painted by Mr. J. W. LUDLOW expressly for this work, with Numerous ENGRAVINGS ON WOOD. Handsome Quarto Volume. Cloth, Extra. 35 f. "No pigeon-breeder can afford to miss the vast collection of hints contained in this new and handsome volume. The work is distinguished by careful research, fulness, and accuracy." Daily Telegraph. 6. Canaries and Cage-birds, The Illustrated Book of British and Foreign. By W. A. BLAKSTON, W. SWAYSLAND, and AUG. F. WIENER. With FIFTY- SIX EXQUISITE FAC-SIMILE COLOURED PLATES, from Paintings, made expressly for the work. Handsome Quarto Volume. Cloth, Extra. 2/2. " The book is a perfect encyclopaedia on everything relating to the subjects of which it treats, and the plates may be studied with no little profit by those who desire to become practical naturalists." The Times. CONTENTS. FLOWER GARDEN. Page. January ... .. ... ... ... 7 February 17 March 24 April 32 May 41 June 48 July 54 August... ... ... ... ... ... 61 September ... ... ... ... ... 71 October 79 November 87 December 100 GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. January ... ... ... ... ... 10 February ... ... ... ... ... 19 March 27 April 34 May 42 June 49 July 55 August... ... ... ... ... ... 64 September ... ... ... ... ... 73 October ... 81 November ... ... ... 89 December ... 104 FRUIT GARDEN. Page. January ... ... ... ... ... 12 February 20 March 29 April , 36 May 45 June ... ... ... ... 51 July 57 August... ... ... ... 67 September 75 October 83 November ... .. ... ... ... 94 December 107 KITCHEN GARDEN. January ... ... ... ... ... 13 February 21 March 30 April 38 May 46 June 52 July 59 August 68 September 77 October 84 November ... ... ... ... ... 96 December 108 MISCELLANEOUS. Dimensions of a Statute Acre ... ... 110 Seeds to Sow Garden Plots ... ... Ill Composts 112 Grafting 112 Budding 114 Propagation by Cuttings ... ... ... 115 The Codlin Moth 116 Useful Garden Eeceipts 120 PEEFACE TO FIRST EDITION. THE constant demand for some reliable guide to Horticultural operations in this Colony has induced the publication of the following cultural hints for the Greenhouse and Conservatory as well as the Flower, Fruit, and Kitchen Gardens. Much pains have been taken to make them not only strictly correct but sufficiently clear and explicit to guide the Amateur as well as the Professional Gardener. Be- fore the MS. was committed finally to the Press, it was carefully revised by the Superintendent of the Eoyal Society's Gardens, Hobart Town, to whom the Publishers desire to express their special thanks for the readiness with which he undertook this work. PEEFACE TO SECOND EDITION. THE first edition of this manual having been out of print for some time past, the Publishers entrusted the preparation of a second edition to Mr. Thomas Wade, of Pomona House, Launceston, by whom the whole of the information contained in the following pages has been carefully revised. Such alterations and additions have been made as a more advanced knowledge of some of the subjects required. It has been a source of gratification to the Publishers to receive from many qualified persons assurances of the usefulness and general correctness of the first edition of this hand-book. The addition of some original instructions in special departments of Horticulture and some useful garden receipts, will, it is believed, make the present volume still more acceptable to Professional Gardeners, and to Amateurs who take an interest in the fascinating pursuit of Garden and Greenhouse Culture. "It will generally be found that far greater pleasure is derived from what we do ourselves than from what others do for us. This rule applies especially to gardening ; no fruit, vegetables, or flowers seem half so fine as those we have planted or cultivated ourselves. The actual labour required soon becomes pleasant, and till it has been tried, no one can tell the delight we take in watching and waiting for the effects of the work of our own hands. " I love my garden well, And find employment there ; Employment sweet for many an hour, In tending every shrub and flower With still unwearied care. " It is not to be denied that there is great satis- faction to be derived from the skilful labours of others, and much gratification obtained by having a regular gardener, but let those who have gardens, and yet cannot afford this luxury, comfort themselves by the thought that the actual enjoyment of garden- ing, as of most other pursuits, is greater in proportion to the pains we have actually taken in it. ... It seems rather a discouraging hint to set out with, but I suspect it is a true one, that we must submit to learn by failure. Somehow these disagreeable lessons make a deeper impression on us, set us to discover the cause of the failure, and produce fore- thought in a way no other experience does. I believe however, that many disappointments in gardening might be avoided by amateurs if they would moderate their desires, and would not expect that unskilled labour should produce results equal to the efforts of an experienced gardener; that hothouse flowers should flourish in a greenhouse without a fire, or that beds and borders should be always in a blaze of beauty, when they can afford neither time nor money sufficient to keep them in such a state of high culture The pleasure that there is in the actual practical work of a garden must be tried before it can be understood. Liking for it will grow by exercise, even when not felt naturally ; for of this healthy enjoyment it may be said, what is generally remarked of more doubtful pleasures, that it only needs a beginning." Chronicles of a Garden, by the late Miss H. Wilson. " I love my garden ! dearly love That little spot of ground ! There's not, methinks (though I may err In partial pride), a pleasanter In all the country round." MRS. SOUTHEY. The garden of the English cottager is one of our national distinctions, and it is well remarked by a Quarterly reviewer " that when we see a plot set apart for a rose bush, and a gilliflower, and a carnation, it is enough for us ; if the jessamine and the honey- suckle embower the porch without, we may be sure that there is the potato, the cabbage, and the onion for the pot within ; if there be not plenty there, at least there is no want ; if not happiness, there is the nearest approach to it in this world content." " Yes ! in the poor man's garden grow Far more than herbs and flowers, Kind thoughts, contentment, peace of mind, And joy for many hours !" HAND-BOOK OF ARDEN & GREENHOUSE JANUARY. Budding is one of the most important operations this month. After heavy rains is the best time, and it should be performed at dawn of day or after sun- set ; but early in the morning is preferable, as the sap then flows freely. The stocks should be vigorous, and if the weather continues dry and the sap flows slowly, a drenching of liquid manure or plain water for two or three nights in succession will prepare them without waiting for rain. Take up bulbs of Hyacinth, Tulip, Crocus, Ranunculus, Anemone, &c., 8 JANUARY FLOWER GARDEN. if not done last month ; after separating the offsets from them, they may be replanted at once, or kept out of the ground till March or April. Cuttings of all kinds may now be struck in cold frames Antir- rhinums, Phloxes, Pentstemons, Alyssums, Dielytras, &c. Layer Pinks, Carnations, and Picotees, and put in pipings of the same, if not done last month. Dahlias must be humoured as to cutting out and tying, because every variety has its own peculiar style of growth. Disbud freely all soft-eyed varieties, but allow hard-eyed kinds to open all the blooms they make until they come good. They will be greatly benefited by being mulched with short, half-rotten manure, and by being liberally supplied with water. Hedges and edgings of all kinds should now be clipped, and those of large leaved trees, such as laurel, &c., ought to be cut back with a knife, as the shears will spoil their appearance for the whole sea- son. Rhododendrons and other hardy American plants may be layered now. Beds of American plants which are much exposed to the sun will be bene- fited by being mulched. Chrysantheimims in the open ground should be stopped again, and the soil between them lightly pricked over with a fork and some quite rotten dung worked in it. It will be found that they always root near the surface, and a dressing of dung will greatly help them. See that they do not suffer from the want of water, as at this season and for the succeeding month or two they are very apt to do so. Cinerarias coming up in seed-pans should be pricked out as soon as large enough to lift, put into separate thumb pots, with light rich compost, and placed in a cool frame. It is quite early enough to sow seed now ; if raised too soon they aVe apt to suffer from the excessive summer heats. By securing a vigorous growth from the first they will be less troubled with fly, and make fine specimens. Pansies JANUARY FLOWER GARDEN. 9 should be propagated from cuttings of young wood, the old, hollow steins being quite unfit for the pur- pose. Keep the cuttings shaded, and sprinkle fre- quently, but let the soil of the cutting-pans be only moderately moist, but only the choicest varieties need be treated in this manner, as better plants can be raised annually from seeds which may be sown as soon as ripe. Beds about to be planted to stand over the winter should now be deeply dug and manured, which will tend to reduce wireworm, as they will be turned up in the process and can then be destroyed. After the beds are made ready, set traps for vermin, and persevere to get the ground clean, as the losses in winter often arise through the eating away of the roots by marauders. Roses may now be struck in any quantity in a cool frame, or under hand lights placed on a shady border. Choose short-jointed, half-ripe shoots for the purpose, and keep them shaded and frequently sprinkled. Cut out all gross shoots and remove decaying flowers. Bedding Plants. Begin at once to make lists of sorts likely to be required next year, in order to have time to propa- gate. Put in plenty of Geranium cuttings ; an open border suffices for them, if shady so much the better, but they require to be kept regularly watered until they begin to make root. Saving Seed. Many choice border plants are now ripening their seeds, and what- ever is required must be secured in time. It is generally safest to gather the seed before it is dead ripe, as in many cases the pods open and the seed is scattered and lost. Cut off bunches with a portion of stem attached, and spi'ead them on cloths under cover, to dry for a day or two, and then put them in the full sun to harden. A shelf in a greenhouse is the best place, because there is less fear of their being scattered bv wind. Name all seeds when gathered, to prevent mistakes. 10 JANUARY. GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY, All plants not in bloom will be greatly benefited by being syringed on the afternoons of warm days, as also by freely damping the walks during the earh r part of the day. Greenhouse and Conservatory plants, especially hard-wooded kinds, will be benefited by a few weeks' exposure in the open air, to ripen their seasonal growth and give them a stocky habit. This will afford an opportunity for a general clearing and painting of sashes, stages, walls, &c., and to clear out vermin from old corners and old woodwork. Houses containing all ordinary kinds of stock should have air day and night, but most soft- wooded plants in flower will enjoy to be shut up for an hour after watering, and then have a little air again. Shift all Greenhouse plants required for late blooming, and grow them on to a good size before allowing them to blossom. Cinerarias for winter blooming must have good culture and shifts as required, and Camellias may be shifted if necessary ; to overpot them is to do them an injury from which they may never recover. A good time to pot Camellias is when the flower buds are fully formed ; for compost use two- thirds of fibrous loam and one of fibrous peat ; see that the ball is in a sufficiently moist state before potting. A few Clii- iiese Primroses nia y be brought forward toflowerduring April and May, when flowers will be scarce. Ericas generally require to be pruned and cleared of seed pods and dead flowers ; all those with woolly leaves to be put into cold pits, and kept shaded at mid-day. Any not shifted in the Spring cut in at once, and as soon as they break repot them. Every kind of hard- wooded plants may be repotted now, if out of bloom. Azaleas should be prepared for ripening their wood by giving more air ; put out the earliest in a shady place. Pelargoniums that are intended to be kept JANUARY GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 11 over another season should be moved to outside to ripen their wood in preparation for cutting back, and the earlier in the season this is done, and cuttings of desirable varieties struck, the better chance will they have of forming good plants ; old plants not par- ticularly required may be planted in the borders, or thrown away at pleasure. Fuchsias must be syringed twice a day and have moderate shade ; fine plants in comparatively small pots will bo greatly benefited with weak liquid manure every three or four days. The stock must be propagated now in quantity, for the next year's supply ; the smallest cuttings make the best plants, and there is no need to cut to a joint. A mild bottom heat will hasten the formation of roots, but it is not needful, as if shut up in a cold frame and kept shaded and regularly sprinkled they will be well rooted in a fortnight. It is a saving of time in the end to put all cuttings singly into pots at this timo of the year, as they can be allowed to fill the first pots with roots, so as to grow strong from their first start. In preparing pots for the cuttings use the smallest sixties or thumbs, put in a mixture of turf and old dung over the crocks and fill up with half sand and half leaf mould, in which the cuttings will root as quickly as in sand alone at this season, and have something to live upon while filling the pots with roots. This is the best method for amateurs, who are much away from home, as the single cuttings require less care than when dibbled into sand only in shallow pans. Hard-wooded Plants requiring a shift this season must have it at once, or the time will go by for them to derive full benefit from the operation. The most important matter of all is to secure good drainage, and to use the compost in as rough a state as possible consistent with the size and nature of the plant. Whenever the cultivator is in doubt about the best soil for any hard-wooded plants, he 12 JANUARY FKUIT GAEDEX. will be safe in using half peat and half loam, both in a turfy and sweet condition the more elastic the better. Herbaceous Calceolarias. Sow the seed with- out loss of time, using a light rich soil ; cover with a piece of glass ; place the pans in a cold frame and keep shaded. FRUIT GARDEN. Attend to the thinning and tying or nailing of Grape vines out of doors ; continue to stop all lateral shoots as they appear, leaving on one joint at each successive stopping; this system keeps up a continuous supply of young working foliage to the end of the season ; wherever oidium appears a dusting with sulphur must be applied immediately, as the stone- ing season is the most critical period in the growth of grapes ; if the season be very dry a supply of water may be necessary in some situations. Thin out all superfluous shoots from fruit trees of all kinds ; cut back all forei'ight shoots from espaliers. Continue to lay in succession the shoots of Peach and Nectarine trees, shortening at the same time those that have fruit at their base. Wall trees and espaliers must be tied and nailed before the young wood gets too hard to be brought into regular order without injury. Strawberries. Banners struck in pots may now be cut off, and the plants shifted into a size larger or turned out into beds : those made now have the best chance of becoming strong before winter, to bear abundantly next year. Old beds now want special attention ; strong reot runners should be taken off to form new plantations, and be pricked out into well manured beds, pretty close together, to strengthen preparatory to making new beds in April, or they JANUARY FRUIT AND KITCHEN GARDEX. 13 may be laid in small pots with a stone or peg to fix them, and -will root directly. Continue to take off all Strawberry runners not required to form plants. After three years, Strawberry beds cease to pay, and should be broken up and the ground trenched for Winter crops. Attend to budding Cherries, Apricots, Plums, Peaches, Nectarines, and other trees, as the stocks are in proper condition, and the buds are fit. Wherever the apple grub appears, a bandage of bag- ging or other material should be placed round the stems of the trees for the insect to take shelter under as soon as it leaves the fruit ; these bandages should be examined periodically, and replaced after the con- tents have been destroyed ; two boards or shingles laid on the ground at intervals underneath the trees where the fruit is falling will attract them, as they accept the first convenient shelter that offers. Many of the moths may be captured by the attraction of a light on calm, dark evenings and nights; it is simply neglect of these and other means of destruction that has permitted the insect to increase to such a serious extent. KITCHEN GARDEN, The Kitchen Garden requires now a general clearance of plots that have borne peas, beans, &c., all dry stalks and weedy stubble burned, and the ground forked over and manure put on if necessary. All winter crops will do better in ground well dug even if not manured than with a mere scratch- ing of the surface. Where there is much demand for potting composts,, the Kitchen garden will supply useful material for the muck-pit, which is a more economical method in the long run than the burning of 14 JANUARY KITCHEN GARDEN. rubbish, though the latter is a clean and quick way to get rid of it, and the ashes are useful. Save all the soot that can be procured to make a puddle for dipping the roots of Brocoli, Cabbages, &c., when planting out from the seed bed. Attend to all growing crops, keeping the ground well stirred between them, and giving them a liberal supply of water. Sow soon Early York,Battersea, Shilling's Queen, and Kosewort Cabbages, Early Horn Carrot, Cabbage and Coss Lettuce, Turnips, aud prickly Spinach. Make ready the ground for Winter Spinach, the time for sowing being near at hand. Celery. The early crops to be earthed up as soon as the plants have attained to a good size. If the ground is dry, give it a heavy soaking of water the day before intending to mould them, and be careful that the soil is nearly dry or at most only moderately moist when the moulding is to be done. Celery planted out now will, if properly at- tended to, be much better than if planted out earlier. The great secret in growing crisp Celery, is to grow it quick ; it is essential that it should never want for water during its growth. Onions should be taken up as soon as the tops have withered ; an airy shed or loft is the best place to dry and store them ; they should not be exposed to scorching sun after leaving the ground. Cucumbers. Keep liberally watered, and train ; thin as necessary to prevent crowding. They will take almost any quantity of liquid manure, if in a good state at the roots. Most Herbs will be ready for gathering during this month ; when they are in ful. 1 flower is the best time to gather them. JANUARY. 15 =\K OF THE SEASON. As this is generally a hot month, a few remarks on watering may not be out of place, since it is an operation which is much less understood than it should be ; but as some experience is gained, the lighter becomes the labour. As a rule, water should never be given until the further withholding of it would be detrimental to the plants. Habitual watering in the majority of cases does more harm than good. Plants left to battle with drought send their roots down deep in search of moisture, and when rain does come they benefit more by it than those which have regular waterings all along. If the ground is dug deeply, and kept in good heart, plants that have once got established will bear drought for almost any length of time ; but those lately planted, which have not had time to " get hold," must be kept supplied, or their beauty may vanish for half the season. Succulent vegetables, too, which ought to be kept growing quick, must have abundance, and plants in pots must, of necessity, have sufficient. There are two important points to be attended to in giving water one is to expose the water to the sun before using it, to render it soft and warm ; and the other is to give a thorough soaking at once sufficient to keep the ground moist for a week. Supposing the supply to be limited, but regular, the best way of economising both water and time is to take the ground piece by piece, watering each piece in succes- sion thoroughlv every evening, and then beginning again as at first. Surface sprinkling brings the roots to the surface in search of the moisture, which when reached is insufficient to nourish them, but on the contrary causes exhaustion by inducing the growth of fibres within reach of the burning rays of the sun. Plants in pots, in windows, and on gravel paths, are 16 JANUARY WORK OF THE SEASON. very much tried by the heating action of the sun, and to keep their roots cool it is advisable to drop the pots into larger ones and fill the space between the two with moss. This is the proper way to use ornamental pots, and the dressing of moss may be made to hide the inside pot which contains the plant, by arranging it neatly over the surface of the soil. Forcing Pit. Melons swelling fruit should have plenty of weak manure-water ; those ripening their fruit to be kept tolerably dry, but if kept too dry they will get infested with red spider, so endeavour to keep them in good health on the smallest possible supplies, and give plenty of air. Those that have borne good crops may be cut back and set to work again with the help of lining to the beds. Keep these rather close after pruning in, aud frequently sprinkle the sides of the frames and the surface of the bed, and give only moderate waterings at the root. Never allow water to fall on the main stems. If the plants cut in appear rather poor, let them break moderately, and then remove a portion of the soil from one side of the roots and replace it with fresh turfy loam. When the roots have run into the new stuff do the same on the other side, and they will swell a second crop admirably. 17 FEBRUARY. FLOWER GARDEN. The operations during this month are principally of a routine character. Attend to the watering, rolling, and mowing of lawns ; clip box and other edgings ; pay particular attention to the training of all kinds of creepers, thinning out such as have a tendency to become matted. Gather such seeds as are required as soon as they are sufficiently ripe ; remove all dead flowers and everything that has a tendency to give the garden an untidy appearance. Tie up all platts coming into flower as they require it. Bedding plants should be propagated for stock ; for Geraniums, ripe, hard shoots make the best plants; Fuchsias come best from the points of young, grow- ing shoots ; Calceolarias should be struck under a hand or bell glass, in a shady situation ; Herbaceous Plants may also be struck in quantities to keep over Winter in frames. Keep Dahlias and Hollyhocks well fastened; and put* stakes to Chrysanthemums before their heads get heavy, as a protection against storms. Give the latter plenty of water, with occa- sional doses of strong liquid manure. Pansies may be sown, as may also most hardy annuals, to stand over Winter for early blooming next Spring. Some seed should be saved for a second sowing in March, as in the event of protracted warm weather some of the first sown may bloom this season. The sorts to sow now are Calliopsis, Clarkia, Collinsia, Godetia, Larkspur, Lupine, Nemophila, French Poppy, Dwarf Schizanthus, Ten-week-stock, Gilia, Iberis, Sile,ne, 18 FEBRUARY FLOWER GARDEN. Malcomia, Saponaria, Mignonette, Callichroa, Adonis, &c. There is still time to raise a stock of hardy perennials for next season, but not a day should be lost in getting in the seed ; the most useful are Antirrhinums, Delphiniums, Dianthus, G-eurn, Holly- hocks, Indian Pinks, Phlox, Potentilla, Sweet Wil- liams, and Wallflowers. Auriculas should now be turned out of their pots and repotted in rich, turfy loam, in a very sweet state. If over-potted they never do well, and they should be kept close for a week after potting, tarnations and Picotees not yet layered must be attended to, or it will be impossible for them to be well rooted before winter. Avoid the practice of cutting the leaves when layering plants ; this is not necessary, and ought to be discontinued. In order to propagate Hollyhocks at once, the shoots that rise at the base of the flower-stem are to be put in as cuttings round the sides of the pot. Pansies should be propagated now in quantity for planting out in May. Roses may be budded on briars until the middle of April, but the earlier the better. Those entered in December should now have started, and must be looked over occasionally for the removal of shoots from the stalk. Cuttings may be put in under a hand light. Roses layered now and left undisturbed until September will then be found well rooted. Those lately budded should have their ties loosened. Where buds have failed others may be inserted, either on the stems of young stocks or on suitable shoots lower down than those previously worked. Layers and cuttings of hardy shrubs put down now and left till September or October may then be removed and planted in nursery rows with good roots. Attend to watering Phloxes, Chrysanthemums, China Asters, Mignonette, and all plants in a growing state ; Chrys- .antheinums often suffer much at this season for the want of a little timely attention in this respect. Cut- FEBRUARY GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 19* tings of Verbenas and Petunias, if not already done, should be propagated without delay. Thrip. To- bacco water will do something to render the flower- buds and young tops of dahlias unpalatable to this insect, but in every case where plants are infested with thrip it is of the first importance to give abun- dance of water at the roots this will do wonders. GP^EEN HOUSE AND Pelargoniums that have been trained out and praned should be repotted so soon as they have broken regularly. Put them into the smallest pots in which their roots can be got, so as to allow of a series of shifts until once more in their blooming pots. They should be placed in a cold pit, and shaded on sunny days ; the roots should be watered sparingly till they have taken hold of the new soil, but a frequent sprinkling of the leaves will be found bene- ficial. It is necessary they should make a strong, healthy growth before retarded by the Winter. Seed may be sown as soon as ripe, Heaths and all hard- wooded plants in general will require to be exposed as much as possible in order to ripen their shoots and induce a flowering habit. Camellias and Azaleas should have plenty of sun and little water, and should be syringed morning and evening overhead. Such as are required for early flowering may be moved into the house towards the end of the month, if the wood has ripened and buds set ; those required later must still be left out. The single red Camellia may now be propagated by cuttings in places where stocks are required. Cinerarias should be potted off from stock suckers and off-sets ; seedlings should be pricked off;. 20 FEBRUARY GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. suckers not rooted may be put in as cuttings round the sides of the pot, when they will make roots in a week. Seed may still be sown. Keep a look-out for slugs and wood lice, as they are fond of young plants. Cinerarias will, in many cases, need to be shifted on, and it is well to take advantage of the forward state of some of the plants to obtain a few extra fine speci- mens by encouraging vigorous growth ; starvation and fly go together in the cultivation of these plants. Keep the stock sufficiently watered, and use a good holding compost, and there will not be much fly. Fuchsias struck now will make nice plants to bloom early next season. Top-dress all specimen plants in pots that are not to be shifted, by removing the top soil and adding a dressing of new material sheep's dung for those that can stand it, and rotten dung well pulverised for Camellias, Allamandas, Stephano- tis, &c. Lilium auratum and speciosum should now be in full flower, as also the general stock of Gloxi- nias and Achimenes; withhold water from these gradually, so soon as they show a tendency to die off. Cuttings of Coleus should now be put in, as young plants survive the winter much better than old. FE\UIT GARDEN. Where Gooseberries and Currants are required late, throw nets over the bushes to keep off the birds, and give a little shade to keep a few bunches hanging for a supply. Encourage in every possible way the ripen- ing of the wood. If trees have been allowed to get crowded, thin them a little now to admit the sunshine amongst the well-placed shoots and spurs. Attend to vines out of doors, rubbing off all laterals as soon FEBRUARY FRUIT AND KITCHEN GARDEN. 21 as formed. Continue nailing in the young wood of wall fruit trees, cutting back the strong shoots of Peaches and Nectarines to the lowest lateral ; complete the removal of all superfluous wood. Gather fruit in dry weather, and as a rule not until quite ripe, for home consumption. The operation of fruit gathering is best performed during the cool of the day. Con- tinue to cut off the runners of strawberries when not required for forming new plantations ; reduce rasp- berries to about six of the strongest canes, cutting out the old wood as soon as the fruit is gathered. Keep in check the American blight, which -may be effected by scrubbing the parts with a hard brush. Oranges and Lemons will derive great benefit from a mulching of short stable manure ; they may be supplied with any amount of water at this season, if the drainage is not defective. The operation of budding may now be performed. If Peach or Plum trees be infested with red spider, they should receive a washing with strong force from hose or garden engine immediately the crop is cleared off. KITCHEN "Winter green stuff should claim the first attention, and it is necessary to ensure at once a good supply and a variety. By this time Brussels sprouts, Brocolis, Savoy s,&c., ought to be strong. Cabbages of most kinds may be sown this month for Winter and Spring use "Shillings' Queen," " Westham," "Early York," and " Red Dutch " ought to have a place in every garden. Turnips may be sown for Winter and Spring use. Celery should be earthed up with care after heavy rains. Lettuce and Radish may still be sown ; 22 FEBRUARY K1TCHEX GARDEN. the Bath Coss and Hardy Cabbage Lettuce are good varieties. Peas lately sown should be supplied with water, unless favoured with much rain. Onions ought now to be ripening off ; and if the wea,ther con- tinues dry, no doubt they will ripen well. When they appear gross, and not inclined to ripen, they may be swept over with a long stick or rake handle, so as to lay down the tops. Generally speaking, they will fall over themselves and the bulbs ripen without assistance. Onions keep best in a dry, cool, and dark place. Sow for pulling young : Tripoli, Brown Globe, Deptford, and Strasburgh are suitable varie- ties. Where sticks are not easily obtainable for Scarlet Runners, it is a good practice to top the plants; this produces a bushy habit, and often makes the plants produce abundantly. In gathering Kidney Beans the old pods should be removed ; this practice keeps the plants fruitful for a much longer period. Pay attention to all growing crops, thinning out Turnips, Spinach, &c., and topping Beans and Tomatoes. Gourds, Marrows, Cucumbers, and Melons will require frequent stopping, and an abundant supply of water. IMPROVEMENTS & SEASONAL WORK. Now that the season is nearly over, it is well to make a review of plans, stock, and appliances, with a view to improvement and economy. While the foliage remains on the trees, errors in planting may be noted down for remedy, and the best places chosen for all shrubs and trees which it is intended to plant this Fall or next Spring. The autumn hues, which increase and deepen as the flowers depart, give quite FEBRUARY SEASONAL WORK. 23 a peculiar interest and beauty to plantations and shrubberies ; and, irf^all arrangements in regard to planting, the autumnal effects of contrasted tints should be considered, and for the next two months we have every opportunity of observing how much variety and how many charming effects may be ob- tained by a judicious assortment and grouping of trees and shrubs. In regard to bedding plants, the most accurate estimate may be formed as to the suit- ableness of the kinds which have been used this season as regards soil, climate, and local circumstances, as well as blending and contrasting of colour, as also the method adopted in planting the beds. "Whatever alterations are to be made in garden plans should be definitely determined at once, so that the ground may be trenched up, deciduous trees got into their quarters before the earth begins to cool, and walks and excavations made before unfavourable weather begins to interfere with such operations. 24 MARCH. FLOWER GARDEN. Endeavour to make the most of this department by a strict attention to neatness. Eemove all dead flowers as soon as they appear ; gather seeds of al) kinds as they ripen. Select the best varieties of China Aster before they are out of flower ; throw away the in- ferior ones at once, to prevent the possibility of mix- ing. Calceolarias. The time has now come for the wholesale propagation of this useful bedding and pot plant. There is nothing more easy than to raise a stock by means of cuttings. These should consist of the shoots of the season which have not flowered, and of which there are plenty in most cases now. Make them in length about two inches each, removing one or two leaves, so as to have enough bare stem to thrust into the earth ; if dibbled an inch deep it will be sufficient. The best way to treat them is to make up beds in frames, the beds to consist of a mixture of leaf-mould and light loam one part each, and one part silver sand. Make the bed level, dibble the cuttings two inches apart, then water with a fine rose, and put on the lights. They will require no more attention, with the exception of a little shading for the first few days, if sunny, and should have air occasion- ally to prevent mildew. When they begin to grow, take away with the finger and thumb every other one, and, after potting them, place them in the greenhouse, leaving the remainder at four inches apart, to grow into neat little plants for bedding out at the end of MARCH FLOWER GARDEX. 25 October or early in November. Chrysanthemums re- quire plenty of water, and twice a week manure water, but not a drop of the latter should touch the leaves ; if fine flowers are required, thin out the buds. See to tying. Auriculas. Look over the whole stock, stir the surface of the soil in the pots, and remove dead leaves. If any leaves are damaged, turn the plants upside down, and search for insects. If any green fly are visible, shake some dry silver sand amongst them, blow it out with force, and the vermin will be carried away. Pansies may now be planted for early flowering ; seedlings, if from a good strain, make a very effective bed ; water occasionally should the weather prove dry. Hollyhocks should be cut down as soon as they cease to^be ornamental. If there are any good shoots at the base, they may be taken off and potted and put into frames ; they will root in time. Any pods of seeds that can be gathered should be put into dry earthen pans and placed in a dry, sunny place to perfect their ripening. The seeds are usually damp and soft for some time after they appear ripe. Roses may be propagated now by in*- serting cuttings in a bed of light soil in a frame or pit, but a more certain wav will be to prepare the cut- tings and insert them in damp sand in a shady place, and keep them frequently sprinkled with water until they harden, then pot and plunge them into a gentle bottom heat ; see that the Autumn flowering varieties do not suffer for the want of water. Propagate all sorts of bedding stuff that will be wanted for next season as fast as possible. As soon as cuttings are rooted pot them oif, keep them in a close frame for a week or ten days, and then expose them to the weather for a short time before housing them for the Winter. Hardy annuals may still be sown to keep over the Winter. We named the best sorts last month, and may now repeat that all the 26 MARCH FLOWER GARDEN. really hardy annuals are better for Autumn than Spring sowings. Lose no time in making a sowing of Mignonette, if not already done. Eevise all named plants whilst there are blooms or fruit to tell if they are tallied correctly. Where the stock of Bulbs is not sufficient, no time should be lost in making the necessary purchases, as the best are always disposed of first. Bulbs of all kinds may be planted towards the end of the month ; see that the beds are properly prepared before plant- ing; a sandy soil is the most suitable for the gene- rality of bulbs. Where the soil is not naturally light, it is a good practice to put a handful of sand round the base of each bulb. The beds should have a good dressing of thorougjpiy rotten cow dung, which should be placed from 4 S> 6 inches below the surface of the bed. On no account should the manure come in contact with the bulb ; this is one of the chief sources of wire-worm and the cause of many valuable collec- tions of bulbs being destroyed. Crocus, Narcissus, Gladiolus, Nerine, Oxalis, Triteleia, and some others, are better if they remain in beds for several years ; it is only necessary they should be taken up when they get too thick, for the purpose of dividing and reduc- ing. Preparation should now be made for planting. See that the sites intended to be occupied by ever- greens are in a fit condition for their reception. Most evergreens may be successfully transplanted during the latter part of this month ; see that a good ball of earth is retained to each plant, reduce the head of large specimens to a convenient size where practicable, and should the weather prove dry, as it usually is at this season, finish the operation with a thorough soak- ing of water. The foliage should also be sprinkled night and morning for a week or ten days ; this will materially assist the plant, as it prevents evaporation at a time when the plant can least afford it. CoN eamn MARCH GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 27 Pay attention to Lawns ; they require frequent waterings during this month to make them at all presentable; in places where they have become patchy, it will be better to have them dug over at once, and resown towards the end of the month. The end of this month and the beginning of April is the best time for forming lawns. If done later there is no chance of a sward forming before the Spring, Lose no time in completing the clipping of box edgings and hedges of all descriptions. r!\EENHOUSE AND Endeavour to keep this depamnent gay by con- centrating all the blooming plants available in it. Towards the end of the month is a good time for a thorough overhaul of this and kindred structures ; remove everything out, in order to give the place a thorough cleansing. Scrub, paint, and whitewash all parts requii-ing it. Nothing keeps all kinds of in- sect pests more iii check than a free use of the white- wash brush, which can be more effectually done in an empty house. See that the plants are quite clean before they are again brought in ; only such as are likely to suffer from exposure need be brought in at present. Assist hard- wooded plants to mature their growth ; this may be done by reducing the quantity of water given, and exposing them freely to the sun and air. When arranging the plants brought in, have an eve to a general pleasing effect. Put them so far apart as to allow the air to circulate freely around them, and avoid shutting them up close. Examine the surface of the soil, and if there are any signs of worms turn the ball carefully out of, the pot, when 28 MARCH GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. they may generally be picked out. Should, however, they be invisible, by no means break the ball to look for them, but return it to the pot, and stick in a peg until the intruders are captured. Remove dead leaves, &c., from the plants,and see that the drainage is fault- less. Give all the air possible, and only reduce the ventilation when there is an unfavourable change in the weather. Fuchsias may be kept in bloom until very late in the season by keeping them rather close and warm. Plants going out of bloom which are to be grown another season should be put out of doors to harden, and left unpruned until they have endured a very slight frost ; then cut them in slightly and house them in any mo|^Pltely dry place either light or dark until they regin to break in the Spring. Gera- niums newly struck will require to be kept rather warm to encourage the formation of roots ; those which are strong in pots may have plenty of air, and be kept rather dry to check growth. If more gera- niums are wanted, put in the ripest shoots you can get five or six around the sides of 5-inch pots, and place them on a top shelf near the glass. They will root in time, though slowly ; of course they must be kept moderately dry. Cinerarias should be growing freely, and be regulai'ly stopped to produce good specimens. At this time of the year they are very subject to mildew and green-fly ; the proper remedies should be used as soon as there are the least signs of such plagues, and the plants well aired to induce robustness ; keeping the outside of pots clean will tend much to ensure the healthiness of the plants. Shift on the most forward plants of Calceolaria and Chinese Primrose. Azaleas and Camellias standing out should be put under glass by the latter part of the month, but still should have plenty of air. Those coming in for bloom will require frequent syringing. MARCH GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 29 Continue to head down Pelargoniums as the wood be- comes sufficiently ripe ; shake out and repot those already cut back, if not previously done. The tuber- ous Tropceolums may now be potted ; it is better to pot them in their blooming pots at once, as they are very impatient of shifts. Allow Japan Lilies, Achi- mines, and Gloxinias to become gradually dry as they go out of bloom, placing the pots on their sides, when the bulbs are sufficiently ripe ; they should not be allowed to get dust dry, as this is the chief cause of dry rot. To avoid this it may be neoe'ssary to sprinkle the pots slightly from time to time with water. Shake out and repot Amaryllis if they have been in their pots more than two. years ; if not, surface dressing will be sufficient. Where Hyacinths are grown in pots they should be potted at once, keeping the neck of the bulb above the surface of the soil ; plunge the pots six inches deep in rotten leaves, peat soil, or some other light material, on a warm border. FRUIT Hardy fruit should be gathered as soon as ripe, which may be known by the colour of the pips and by the stalk parting readily from the tree. Gather with great care, and keep apart from the best all that fall in the process. Gather only during dry weather, and store at once in single layers ; avoid as much as possible placing one on another. The fruit store should be in a dark place, capable of being freely ventilated, yet generally admitting but a trifling current of air ; and it should be cool, and yet safe from damp and frost. The planting season is near at hand, aiid where alterations and improvements 30 MAKCH FRUIT GAEDEX. are intended ths preparation of the ground should be commenced at once, as there can be no good results from planting trees in ground untouched until the last moment, and then hastily chopped up and prepared in a superficial manner. It is strange that few people think of manuring for trees ; yet, if they are .to be planted on land that has been much cropped, or where trees have been before, deep digging and manuring are essential to success. Soils deficient in calcareous matter may be greatly improved for all kinds of fruit by a liberal dressing of lime or old mortar. Keep the runners well cut off Strawberries, and the beds clean; they will be benefited by a slight forking at this period. New plantations may now be made in dull weather. Look over Vines on walls and trellises, and remove all leaves that prevent the fruit from receiving the full influence of the sun ; remove any laterals that may have recently formed. Supply Oranges and Lemons liberally with water and thin out the branches to prevent the head from becoming crowded, and throw increased vigour into the shoots left. This is the best month to perform root pruning ; if done now the trees operated upon will produce fruit next year. KITCHEN GARDEN. This is the time for earnest work in every depart- ment ; make a general clearance of the ground wherever there are vacant spaces, and ridge up all plots not to be planted on during winter. Get a waste corner clear for heaping up manures and com- posts, where they can be turned over during unfavour- able weather. In preparing for next year's crop, trench over the first ground intended for root crops. MARCH KITCHEN GARDEN. 31 and choose for potatoes, carrots, parsnips, and beet, plots that have been well manured this season. If the soil allows of deep digging, fork over the second spit, and if it is of a friable and fertile nature bring it to the top, so as to turn the whole soil over from 18 inches to two feet deep. Plant out the early sown cabbage, cauliflower, and brocoli, leaving the weakest in the seed bed for future planting. Plant out lettuce in a warm situation. Take up potatoes when ripe. Spinach must be thinned until the plants are about six inches apart. Earth up celery. Use the fork, spade, and hoe as much as possible to keep all plots clean. Turnips must be thinned in good time. When sown broadcast, the hoe must do the thinning, weed- ing, and loosening of the soil ; but when in drill it is best to thin them by hand, as the hoe always leaves two or three together, fighting for a place, which is an evil. Onions must be housed, and if not dead ripe may be spread in a dry, sunny place. If well dried at once they will keep well, but if stored soft some will rot and some will grow, and all will very soon be worthless. Capsicums and tomatoes that ripen tardily should be exposed to the full influence of the sun, by removing any shoots or loaves that shade them, or they may be cut, with a portion of stem attached, and strung up in any warm, light place. Sow cabbages, cauliflowers, spinach, onions, carrots (early horn), turnips, and other vegetables required for Spring use. APRIL, f LOWER GARDEN. Biennial and perennial plants of all kinds may now be planted. In warm localities Verbenas should be planted for early blooming, but in places much sub- ject to frost it will be better to wait till Spring. Box edgings should be planted without delay ; cut- tings of the same may now be put in. Finish clipping all hedges and edgings. Spring Floivers. The following are all exquisitely beautiful, and if not in the possession of the cultivator should be secured at once : Any of the species of perennial Iberis, the flowers of which are snow-white, are magnificent in large tufts on rock-work ; Aubrietia purjnirea and grandiflora ; Alyssum saxatile (popularly known as "gold dust"), showy yellow, impatient of wet, quite hardy, elevated on rock- work, and worth growing in pots; Arabis alpina ; and Italian coltsfoot, useful to cover banks for the sake of its perfume in August. Of double wallflowers we only grow two varieties the tall double yellow and the dwarf double yellow and we generally have a fine display of bloom during the Spring. Hepaticas, Primroses, Polyanthuses, and Violets must have a place amongst the best of spring flowers ; in fact the garden would be dreary without them. Lose no time in securing and planting bulbs, if not already done ; it is essential they should have a strong root action, if they are expected to flower well. Pansies should be protected against slugs. APRIL FLOWER GARDEN. 33 Chrysanthemum* These should have less manure vater as they show colour, and it should be discon- inued (using plain water only) so soon as a few of he first flowers are open. The flowers on plants from vhich blooms are to be cut should be thinned. Large lowering varieties out of doors are liable to suffer rom high winds and drenching rains. Give them ome rough sort of shelter to prevent the spoiling of he best blooms. Deciduous trees may be planted now. This the best month in the year for planting all :inds of trees and shrubs. There is no occa- .ion to wait for the fall of the leaf. No matter f they are as green as in January, take them up and lispose of them as required ; the shift will do them nore good than harm. Fruit trees, roses, forest rees, ornamental shrubs, and all such things may >e got and planted at once ; and, from, this date, vvery day gained is a real gain for the future well- >eing of the trees, which will begin to make roots lirectly, as the ground is still warm, but will get ooler every day. Consequently, the longer planting s delayed, the longer will the trees require to make lew roots, on which their vigour next season will lepend. Never plant whilst the ground is in a oddened state ; if it does not crumble freely wait a )it. Meantime, lay the trees in by the heels to pre- r ent injury to their roots by sunshine and drying. Camellias and Azaleas should now be planted in >laces where they are grown in the open air. Seeds of Oak, Ash, Sycamore, Walnut, Portugal Laurel, Horsechestnut, Carya, Laurel, Corynocarpus, ind many other tree seeds, which are now ripe, hould be sown as soon as gathered, as they soon lose heir vitality. Push forward the propagation of stock intended for lext season's display ; cuttings of many evergreens