\ \\ A TOUR . ff G BRALTAR TO TANGIER, SALLEE, MOGODORE, SANTA CRUZ, AND TARUDANT-, AND THENCE 07ER MOUNT ATLAS TO MOROCCO. INCLUDING A PARTICULAR ACCOUNT OF THE ROYAL HAR^M, &c. BY WILLIAM LEMPRIERE, SURGEON. Cf)e CfjirD OEDition, WITH ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS* PHILADELPHIA: PRINTED BY T. DOBSON, AT THE STONE-HOUSE, SOUTH S5COND-STREET> M.DCC.XCIV, I TO A His Royal Higbnefs Prince Edward. SIR, 1 HE diftinguiflied honour which your Royal Highnefs has been pleafed to confer upon me, by taking under your auguft prote&ion the firft Effay of a young Author, is a fingular inftance of the bene volence and liberality of your Royal High nefs' s difpofition, and will ever command rny \varmefl acknowledgments. That your Royal Highnefs may e uninterrupted courfe of health and - perity, and long continue a bldiing to the Britifh Nation, and an honour to th vice ? is the fmcere wifti of Your Royal Highnefs's Moil grateful fcrvant, WILL ADVERTISEMENT. HPHE Author cannot help feeling bimfelf under an obligation of apologifing for the frequent egotifins, which appear in the courfe of tlv. lowing narrative, and for the (hare of it \ his adventures neceflarily occupy. The i . will only have the goodnefs to bear in mind, thefe tranfactions are detailed merely with a of throwing light upon the character of the pe and the court, which he has undertaken to d^icrlb : 5 and in this view, he humbly conceives that they ferve better to illuitrate the manners and dlfpof:- tions of the Moors, than the moft laboured ticns. CONTENTS, CONTENTS. CHAR I. fyfOTIFES of the Author for undertaking this Tour. Sail's from Gibraltar. Arrival at TANGIER. Defcription of that Place. D -pirturefor TARU DAN r. Injlance of Tyranny exercifed upon a Jew. S ate of the Country and Roads. Mode of. living on th;fe Journeys. Defc ripli^ n of A. R z i L L A Moo rift L uxu- ry. Application from a Variety of Patients. Arrival ^/LARACHE page i CHAP. II. 'Defcription of LARACHE. A ^plication from a Number of Patients. Difeajes of the Country. Slate of Me dical Science in MOROCCO. Curious Ruin. Beautiful Country. Encampments of the Arabs Mann-rs and Cujloms of this fingular People* OppreJJion of the Pto~ pie, Inflames. Mode of jijhing in the Lakes. Sanctuaries. Moor if h Saints. Anecdotes iUu ir alive of ibis Subject. Journey from MA MORA to SAL LEE 18 CHAP. IIL Defcription of SAL LEE. Piracies. Curious Letter cf MULEY ZIDAN to King CHARLES I 'Brutal Con- dutt of a Muleteer. Plan -feme B haviour of the French Corful Defcription of RABAT. Journey from RA BAT t$ MoGODORr.-^-/ 7 '/'^/?/ farm. Ruins of A- , DALA. DAR BEYDA AZAMORE. M.Ian holy Anecdote of an Eng!i/b Surgeon. MAZAGAN. DYN MEDINA VU1 CONTENTS. MEDINA RABJEA. SAFFI. General Jlate of the Country. ~ Defcription 0/*MoGODORE . . . 38 CHAP. IV. General View of the Empire of MOROCCO. Situation and Climate. Provinces. Soil. Wonderful Fertility. Sea Ports. Natural Productions. Mines. Ani mals. Occajional Famines. Famine in 1778. Ma nufactures. Buildings Roads. Population. Ir.tr o- ducllon of Negroes. MULEY ISHMAEL his Policy. S i D i MA HOME T. General Opprej]:on of the People. Merchants 62 C A A P. V. four ney from "M.OGOQORE to SANTA CRUZ. Some Ac count of the Origin of that Place. Arrival at TARU- DANT. Introduction to the Prince. Defcription of his Palace. Singular Reception. Accommodations^ State of the Prince's Health. Abfurd Prejudices of the Moors. Alt e real ion ivith the Prince. Application from other Patients. 'The Cadi. Introduction into tbs Prince's Harem. Wives of the Prince. State of the. Female Sex in this Secluded Situation. Vifible amend ment in the Princess Complaint. His AJfalilily. Cka- rafttrofthe Prince MuLEvAssuLEM. 80 CHAP. VI. Dcfcrlptwn O/'TARUPANT. Country O/VLED DE Now. Markets for the Sale of Cattle, Extraordinary Amendment in the Prince's Complaint. Great Cl'Miy from two Moors. Singular Adventure. The Prince ordered on a Pilgrimage to MECCA. Intcrcejjfan in Favour CONTENTS. IX Favour of the Englifa Captives. Unsxfeftcd Order to repair to MOROCCO 107 CHAP. VII. journey over Mount ATLAS from TARUDANT to MO ROCCO. Retinue. Dangerous Paffage over Mount ATLAS. Defcription of Mcunt A.Ti*AS.**NaiuraI Produttions. Animals* Beautiful V allies. Manners and Cujloms of the BREBES. PtSurffque Vitws in the Mountains. . . . . . 119 CHAP. VIII. al at MOROCCO. -Difficulty of obtaining an Au dience. Defcription of the Metropolis. Buildings. tfovfi of the Prims Mintfter.-^The Cafi!e.The Jew- fii*2> t $t&ti &f the 'jews in Barbery. ^dceMnt of JACOB ATTAL, th: Empsror's Jeivffi Secretary. * Manners of the Jews in Barlary.^yeiveJ/es. Drefs* i~ Marriages. -DifpoJ/tion for Intrigue in the jfeiuifh Women. The Emperor's Palace defc riled . 127 CHAP. IX. JniroJufiion to the Emperor. Converfation 'with hit hi? MoorifJj Majcjty. Account of the Emperor SIDI MAHOMET his Character his extreme Avarice lis miferalle Situation. Anecdotes relative to the late Emperor. Anecdotes of SIDI MAHOMET his De ceit and Hypocrify his Charity. Pusillanimous Con- chcl of the European Powers* Ceremonies of the Court of MOROCCO. Exatlions from Strangers. Account of the principal Officers of State. Character of the late Prime Minifter. Revenues of MOROCCO. Wealth tf X CONTENTS. of the Emperor^ lefs than generally imagined* The Army of the Emperor hoiv commanded his Navy. Internal Government of the Empire. BafJoaivs. Alcaldes. Ell hackum. Cadi, Mode of admlnlfler- ing Jujlice>\ Criminal Punifhments . . . 144 CHAP. X. Arrival c/ r MuLEY ABSULEM at MOROCCO his pom pous Entry. Adventures of ferns Engltfb Captives. Account of wild Arals. Interview with the Prince. Flattering Expectations dlfappointed. Unworthy con- luft of the Prince his departure for MECCA. Dif- agreeaUe Embarrajfments* Efforts of the Author to procure Leave to return 187 CHAP. XL Departure of Captain IRVING. Infolcnce of the Populace to Cbriftians. Manners and Charafler of the Moors. -Education of the Princes- -Perfons and Drefs cf the ?rs. Houfcs and Furniture. Ceremonies. Ccu- r'ters* Anecdotes illujlrati*ve of Moorifb Cujloms.- Topics of Converfailon at MOROCCO. Horf em an/hip. Mrfic and Poetry. Religion. Mofques. Slavssi Marr iage&* Fun era If. - Renegadoes . Car a vans to MECCA and GUINEA. . , 198 CHAP. XII. Summons to appear before the Emperor jddm\f]ion into the Royal HAREM. Attendance on LALLA ZARA. Introduction to LALLA BATOOM, the chief Sultana. Introdu&itn to LALLA DOUYAW, the favourite wife cf the Emperor- her BiJlory*~DeJcr'iption of the HAREM CONTENTS. XI HAREM its Economy* Conculines of tie Emperor. Adventure and After -cation with one ofthofe Ladies. Drefs of the Ladles In the HAREM. Opinion of the Moors concerning the Female Sex. Emperor's Chil dren. Drefs, Manners, and Situation of phe Female Sex in Barbary . . . . .248 CHAP XIII. Duplicity of the Emperor. Plan of the Author to efleft his Emancipation unfuccefsful.-^-Application through another Channel. Curious Prefent from the Emperor. Striking Inftance of Tyranny. Perfonal Applica tion to the Emperor. Traits of Defpotifm. The Em peror's Dif patches obtained. Commiffions from the La dies in the Harem. Anecdotes of an Englijh Mulatto. Journey to BULU ANE Defcription of that Fortrefs. Singular Mode of pajjing the River. Arrival at SALLEE #/ TANGIER. Prefent from the Emperor. Return to Gibraltar . . . 280 CHAP. XIV. Return of the Author to Barbary. TETUAN Town and Buildings Port. Prefent State of the Empire of MOROCCO under MULEY YAZID. Anecdotes rela tive to his accejjion. MULEY YAZioyi?/*/ to MECCA by his Father his Return takes Rifuge in a Sanc tuary. State of the late Emptror. Death of SIDI MAHOMET.- Dtffention among the Princes. MULEY HAS EM proclaimed Emperor retracls his P reten tions. Anecdote relative to MULEY ABDRAHAMAN curious Letter from him to MULEY YAZID. His Submiffion. Peaceable EJlallifhment o/'MvLEY YA ZID. Depredations of the Arabs. Perfccutlon of the Jews. Death of ALCAIDE ABBAS. Character of MULEY YAZID. Death of MULEY YAZID. 295 TOUR, C H A P. I. Motives of the Author for undertaking this Tour. Sai!t from Gibraltar. Arrm&lat TANGIER. Defcriptlon of that Place. Departure for T A R u D A N T. Injlance of Tyranny exercifed upon a jfe. throughout this empire con- fifr, of huts rudely conftrufted of {tones,, earth, and canes, covered with thatch, and encloied with thick and high hedges. This defcription exactly applies to that which received us on thefirft even ing of our expedition. So careful had the governor of Tangier been in executing his commiilion, and fo attentive to the accommodation of the perfon who was to, reilore health ta his royal matter's favourite fon, that upon examining my tent, it was found fo full of holes, a-nd in every refpefl fo out of order,, that I was obliged to place my bed under- a hedge,, and make ufe of my tattered tent as a lide cover ing. After fpending the night in this fingular fitua- tion, we proceeded on our journey at half pa/I feven in the morning, and in an hour after crofTed; the river Marha, which was nearly dry, though. I was informed that after the heavy rains it is deep, and dangerous to be. forded.. In a wet feafon, 12 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. the rivers are fwelled, travellers are frequently detained for feveral days upon their banks. There are in fact but very few bridges in this country, fo that, except at the fea-ports, where they have boats, there is no method of pafTmg fheams which are too deep to be forded, except by fwimming, or by the ufe of rafts. At ten we entered a thick and extenfive foreft, named Rabe a Clow. From its fituation on a high mountain, from the rocky and difficult afcent, and from the diflant view of the ocean through the openings of the trees, this forefr, prelented to us an uncommonly wild, romantic, and, I may with truth fay, a fublime appearance. From this profpeclj however, our attention was in a great meafure diverted by the miferable road over which we now found we were to pafs, extending for the jnoft part over fleep mountains and craggy rocks,.. On this account w r e were obliged to ride very flow, and with the greatefl caution. At eleven we crofTed another river, called Ma- chira la chef, running at the bottom of this ele vated fore.fr, which, though the feafon was dry, was rather deep. Here the eye was agreeably refrefhed, by a fine champaigne country, and a good road before us. On this we continued until we arrived at a rivulet with fome trees growing at a fmall diftance from its margin. At noon I fixed upon the mofl: ihady fpot I could find, and, agreeably to the Moorifh fafuion, fat down crofs- legged on the grafs and dined. As the drefling of victuals would have retarded us too much on our journey, I always made a point of having fomething prepared the night be-. fore. A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 13 fore to eat cold the following day. Such repafts in frefcowere agreeable enough, when wholefome and palatable water could be procured ; but very frequently that was far from being the cafe. In many places it was fo muddy and ofFenfire, that, though extremely thirfty, I could not drink it un- lefs corredled with wine. Except in the large towns, no provifions could be procured but fowls and eggs \ with thefe, which I had been before accuftomed to efleem as delicacies, I now began to be fatiated and di- gutted. My ufual fupper upon my rout was a cup of ftrong coffee and a toall, which I found much more refrefhing than animal food. Every morn ing I breakfafted upon the fame, and experienced the invigorating effe<5ts of this beverage, by its enabling me to fupport the fatigues of the day. .After purfuing our courfe for about two hours, we arrived at the river Lorifa, where we were detained an hour by the height of the tide. The uncertainty and unevennefs of the bottom, and the number of large flones which lie in the channel of this river, render it at all times unfafe to be pa/Fed. This circumilance we very fen fibly ex perienced ', for when the tide permitted us to make the attempt, though we had men on foot for the purpofe of guiding our beafts, friil by their ftriking againfl the ftones, and by their hidden plunges into deep holes, we were continually thrown for ward upon their necks. Hardinefs and dexterity are, perhaps, the firft among the few advantages which uncivilized na tions enjoy. It was amufing in this place to ob- fcrve a number of Moors, who were travelling on 14 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. on foot, pull off their cloaths, place them com- modiouily on their heads, and immediately fwira acrofs the ftream. In the evening we reached Arzilla, where, in confequence of the fervice in which I was engaged, application was made by the foldiers to the Al caide, or governor of the town, to procure me a lodging. Arzilla is eleven hours journey, or about thirty miles diflant from Tangier : for the Moors compute diftances by hours ; and as the pace of their mules is at the rate of three miles an hour, the length of a journey is generally calcu lated in this way with fufficient accuracy. The apartment affigned me was a miferable room in the caftle, without any windows, and re ceiving light from a door-way (for there was no door) and from three holes in the wall about fix inches fquare. This cadle covers a large fpace of ground-, and though it is now in a very ruinous condition, appears to have been a building erect ed formerly in a fuperior flile of Moorifh gran deur. The town is a fmall fea-port upon the Atlantic ocean. It was once in the pofTeilion of the Por- tugueze, and was at that time a place of ftrength ^ but through the indolence and caprice of the Moorifh princes its fortifications have been fmce neglected, and ks walls are rapidly decaying in almoft every part. The houies have a miferable appearance, and the inhabitants, who confilt of a few Moors and Jews, live in a flate of the moil perfect poverty. The reader may form fome idea of the manners of this country, by imagining me. and my interpre ter A TOtR TO MOROCCO, &C. 15 ter at one end of the room, as above defcribed, drinking coffee; and at the other, the muleteer and the foldiers enjoying themfelves over a large bowl of Cufcafou, which they were devouring with all the fervour of an excellent appetite, and in the primitive fafhion, that is with their fingers. This fpecies of food is very common among the Moors, who have a tradition that it was invented by their prophet Mahomet, at a time when he could ob tain neither deep nor fubfiftence. It is their prin cipal treat to all foreign minifters, and travellers of diftinftion who viiit the country. It confifls of bits of pafte about the frze of rice, crumbled in to an earthea colander, and cooked by the fleam of boiled meat and vegetables. The whole is then put into an earthen difh, and butter and fpices added to it. The difh is ferved up in a wooden tray, with a cover of palmetto leaves plaited to gether. About an hour after my arrival the governor, and feveral of the principal Moors, paid me a vifit, and brought me, in compliment to my royal patient,, a prefent of fruit, eggs, and fowls. After a con- verfation of about half an hour, during which many compliments pafTed on both fides, my vifitors took their leave, and we all retired to reft. As the report was rapidly and extenfively cir culated that a Chriftian furgeon was arrived in the town, I found myfelf vifited very early in the morning by a number of patients, whofe cafes were in general truly deplorable. Many of thefe objects were afflicted with total bl'mdnefs, white fwellings, inveterate chronical rheumatifms, and dropfies. 1 6 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. dropfies. It \vas in vain to allure thefc unfortu nate and ignorant people that their complaints were beyond the reach of medicine. All I could allege gained not the fmalleft credit 5 a Chriftian doctor, they afTerted, could cure every malady, and repeatedly offered me their hands to feel their pulfej for difeafes of every kind in this country, it leems, are to be dlfcovered merely by an applica tion to the pulfe. From the urgent importunities of my patients, who all \vi(hed to be attended to at the fame time, I was at firft at a lofs how to proceed; however, I found myfelf under the neceility of ordering my guards to keep off the crowd, and permit one only to confult me at a time. It was truly diftrefling to obferve fo many objecls of real mifery before me, without having it in my power to adminifler that relief for which they appeared fo anxious, and which they werefo confident of obtaining. Though moft of their complaints appeared to be incurable, yet had my time permitted I fhould have expe rienced the moft heart-felt pleafure in exerting every means in my power to alleviate their filter ings. Circumftanced as I was, I could only re commend them medicines which could have but a temporary efTecl, and which ferved rather to fend them away fatisfied than to afford a perma nent relief. In the mean time the governor had been paying attention to the bad condition of my tent, and by ordering the worft parts to be cut out, and the reft to be patched, had reduced it fo much in fize that he had fcarcely left room for myfelf and interpreter with difficulty to creep into it. At A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 17 At eight o'clock the fame morning, Oftober 2d, \ve began our route for the city of Larache, about twenty-two miles from Arzilla, and ar- lived there ihe fame day about four in the after noon. Our journey thither was principally on the beach, fo that but little occurred which was worthy of obfervation. Before we could enter the town, we were ferried over the river Luccos, which in this part, is about half a mile in breadth, and after many beautiful meanders falls into the ocean at Lcirache* CHAP. A TOtJR TO MOROCCO, &C. CHAP. H. Defer iptlon of LARA CHE. Application from a Number of Patients. Difeafes of the Country. State of Medi cal Science In MOROCCO. Curious Ruin. Beautiful Country. -"-Encampments of the Arabs. Manners an Ciijfams of this Jingular People. +-~ Oppreffion of the Peo- in the Lakes.' Sanc- Saints.**** Anecdotes illnjlrati tians. Befides thefe, I may mention under the head of faints or prophets, the Marabouts, a clafs of im porters who pretend to (kill in magic, and are highly efteemed by the natives. They lead an in dolent life, are the venders of fpells and charms, and live by the credulity of the populace. There is alfo among thefe people a fet of itiner ant mountaineers, who pretend to be the favourites of the prophet Mahomet, and that no kind of ve nomous creatures can hurt them. But the moit fmgular of this clafs are the Sidi Nafir, or make- eaters, who exhibit in public upon market-days, and entertain the crowd by eating live fnakes, and per forming juggling deceptions. I was once prcfent- at this ftrange fpecies of amufement, and faw a man, in the courfe of two hours, eat a living fer- pent of four feet in length. He danced to the found of wild mufic, vocal and inftrumerital, with a variety of odd geures and contortions, feveral times round the circle formed by the fpeftators. ; He then began his attack upon trie 'tail, after he 1 had recited afhort prayer, in which he was joined' by the multitude. This ceremony was repeated at intervals, till he had entirely devoured the faake^ Thus J<5 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. Thus far by way of digreffion ; I now return to the courfe of my narrative. Early in the even-* ing of the fifth, we arrived at Mamora, which is diftant about fixty-four miles from Larache. It is fituated upon a hill near the mouth of the river Saboe, the waters of which, gradually widening in their courfe, fall into the Atlantic at this place, ~and form a harbour for fmall vefTels. Mamora, like the generality of the Moorish towns through which I pafTed, contains little worthy of observation. While it was in the pof- feflion of the Portugueze it was encompafTed by a double wall, which ftill remains , it had alfo other fortifications which are deftroyed. At prefent, it pofTefTes only a fmall fort on the fea-fide. The fertile paftures, the extenfive waters and plantations, which we pafTed on our way hither, have already been remarked. The vicinity of Mamora is equally enchanting. What a delight ful refidence w r ould it be, if the country had not the misfortune to groan under an arbitrary go vernment ! In the morning, between eight and nine, we mounted our mules, leaving Mamora, and direft- ing our courfe towards Sallee ; where we arrived between one and two at noon, after having tra velled over a fpace of about fifteen miles. The road between Mamora and Sallee, is in excellent order, and tolerably pleafant. It extends along a Vale, towards which the hills gently Hope on each fide. Within a quarter of a mile of Sallee, we ar rived at an aqueduft, which the natives aflert to have A TOUR TO MOROCCOj &C. 37 have been built many years ago by the Moors ; but from its ftyle, and ftriking marks of antiquity, it bears more the refemblance of a piece of Roman architefture. Its walls, which are remarkably thick and high, extend in length for about halt a mile, and have three ftupendous arch-ways opening to the road, through one of which we naffed on our way to Sallee. Although tune has laid its deftruaive hand in fome degree on this ancient piece of architecture, yet it ftill feryes the purpofe of fupplying the town of Sallee with ex cellent water. A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. C H A P. III. Defcriptlon of SALLEE. Piracies. Curious Letter of MULEY ZIDAN to King CHARLES I. Brutal Cc-K- cluEl of a Muleteer. Hanclfome Behaviour of the French Conful. Dejcription of RABAT. 'Journey from RA BAT to MOGODORE. Violent Storm. Ruins ofYA- DALA. DAR BEYDA AZAMORE, Melancholy A- ntcdoie of an Engli/Jj Surgeon. MAZAGAN. DYN MEDINA RABJEA. SAFFI. General Slate of the Country. Dtfcripllon of M o G D o R E. HPHE name of Sallee is famous in hiftory, and -* has decorated many a well-told tale. Thofe piratical vefiels which \vere fitted out from this port, and which were known by the name of Sal- lee-rcvers, were long the terror of the mercantile world. Equally dreaded for their valour and their cruelty, the adventurers who navigated thefe fwift and formidable veffels, depopulated the ocean, and ev r en dared fometimes to extend their devaila- tions to the Chriftian coafts. As plunder was their fole aim, in the acquifition of it nothing im peded their career. Human life was of no value in their eftimation, or if it was fometimes fpared, it was not through any fentiment of juftice or compaf- fion, but only that it might be protradled in the mod wretched of fituations, as the hopelefs (lave to the luxury and caprice of a fellow mortal. The town of Sallee in its prefent (late, though large, pre- fents nothing worthy the obfervation of the tra veller, except a battery of twenty-four pieces of cannon fronting the fca, and a redoubt at the en trance K A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C/ 39 trance of the river, which is about a quarter of a mile broad, and penetrates feveral miles into the: interior country. On the fide oppofjte to Sallee is fituated the town of Rabat, which formerly partook equally with Sallee In its piratical depredations, and was generally confounded with it. While Sallee and Rabat were thus formidable, they were what might be termed independent ftates, paying only a very fmall tribute to the emperor, and barely acknowledging him for their fovereign. This ftate of independence undoubtedly gave uncom mon vigour to their piratical exertions. Few will take much pains, or encounter great rifles for the acquifition of wealth, without the certainty of enjoying it unmoleiled. Sidi Mahomet, how ever, when prince, fubdued thcfe towi\s, and an nexed them to the empire. This was a mortal blow to their piracies; for when thofe defperate manners felt the uncertainty of pofleiEng any length of time their captures, they no longer be came felicitous to acquire them; and at length, * when the man who had deprived them of their privileges became emperor, he put a total flop to their depredations, by declaring himfelf at peace with all Europe. Since that period the entrance of the river has been fo gradually filling up with fand wafhed in by the fea, that was it poffible for thefe people to recover their independence, it would incapacitate them for carrying on their piracies to their former ex tent . Having * In perufing the maniifcripts of a gentleman lately de ceafed, who formerly redded a number of years in this Empire, 40 A TOUR TO MOROCCOj &C. Having a letter of recommendation to Mr. De Rocher, the French conful-general, I -was ferried over the river to Rabat, where he refides, and met with a very polite reception. Upon landing my Empire, it appears that Sallee was, fofar back as the year 1648, eminent for its piracies and independence, and that it became an object of conqueft to the monarch of that time. He exprefles himfelf in thefe words : " Sallee is a city in the province of Fez, and derives its name from the river Sala, on which it is fituated, near its influx into the Atlantic Ocean. It was a place of good commerce, till addicting itfelf entirely to piracy, and re volting from its allegiance to its fovereign Muley Zidan, that prince, in the year 1648, difpatched an embaffy to Xing Charles I. of England, requeuing him to fend a Jquadron of men of war to lie before the town, while he at tacked it by land. This requeft being confented to, the city was foon reduced, the fortifications demolished, and the leaders of the rebellion put to death. The year fol lowing the Emperor fent another ambaffador to England, with a prefent of Barbary horfes and three hundred Chrif- tian (laves, accompanied with the following letter. I infert it as a fpecimen of the loftinefs of the Moorifh ftyle, and becaufe it leads me to think, that Muley Zidan was a more enlightened prince than moft of his predeceffbrs. Neither the addrefs, fignature, nor reception it met with at our court, is exprefled in the manufcript. It appears to be a modern tranflation, and is as follows : " The King of Morocco's Letter to King Charles the Frift of England, 1649. Muley Zidan. 41 WHEN thefe our letters fhall be fo happy as to come to your Majefty's fight, I wifh the fpirit of the righteous God may fo direct: your mind, that you may joyfully em brace the meflage I fend. The regal power allotted to us, makes us common fervants to our Creator, then of thofe people whom we govern ; fo obferving the duties we owe to God, we deliver bleflings to the world in providing for the public good of our eftates ; we magnify the honour of God, like the celeftial bodies, which, though they have much A TOTTR TO MOROCCQ, &C. 4! baggage a very warm difpme arofe between the muleteer and my interpreter, concerning the method of packing it on the mules again, for the purpofe of carrying it to the confuTs houfe. much veneration, yet ferve only to the benefit of the world. It is the excellency otour office to be instruments, where by happinefs is delivered wnto the nations. Pardon me, Sir ! This is not to inftrucl, for I know I fpeak to one of a more clear and quick fight than myfelf ; but I fpeak this, becaufe God hath pleafed to grant me a happy victory over fome part of thofe rebellious pirates, that fo long have molefted the peaceable tiade ot Europe; and hath pre- fented further occafion td root out the generation of thofe, who have been fo pernicious to the good of our nations : I mean, fince it hath pleafed God to be fo aiifpicious in our beginnings, in the conqueft of Sallee, that we might join' and proceed in hope of like fuccefs in the war of Tunis, Al giers, and other places ; dens and receptacles for the in human villages of thofe who abhor rule and government. Herein while weinterupt the corruption of malignant fpirifs- of the world, we ftiall glorify Che great God, and perform 1 a duty that will fhine as glorious as the fur, and moon, which all the earth may fee and reverence: a wo;k that fliall afand as fweet as the perfume of the mod precious odours, in the nofirils of the Lord : a work whofe memory fhall be reverenced fo long as there (hall be any rema'n'ng among men : a work grateful and happy to men who love and honour the piety and virtue of ncble minds. This acYion I 'here willingly prefent to you, whofe piety and vir tues equal the gresitnefs of your power ; that we, who are vicegerents to the great and mighty God, may hand in hand triumph in the glory which the action prefents unto us. Now, becaufe the iflands which you govern, have been ever famous for the unconquercd ftrength of their fhipping, 1 have fentthis my trufly fervant and ambafTador, to know whether, in your princely wifdcm, you fhall think fit to a-flifl me with fuch forces by fea, as fhall be anfwerable to thofe 1 provide by land ; which if you pleaf to grant, I doubt not but the Lord of Hofts will protect and afiift thofe that fight in fo glorious a caufe. Nor ought >ou to think this 42 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. Both parties appeared fo very ftrenuous in their caufe, that neither of them paid any attention to my interference ; and it was at length carried to fucli excefs, that the muleteer ftruck my interpre- ' ter. Upon feeing this, I could no longer remain a filent fpeftator, and I have reafon to fear my warmth was almoft as intemperate as that of the difputants. The blow was given in fo brutal a manner, that I could with difficulty reflrain myfelf from immediately returning it. - It was fortunate, however, that I ftill poffefTed fufficient coolnefs to reflect on the impropriety of fuch a proceeding, and I directed one of my Mooriih foldiers to punifh the muleteer. By means of long leather ft raps which he always carried about him, my Negro deputy performed his part fo well on the back of the delinquent, that he was foon glad to fall on his knees, and intreat a pardon both from, myfelf and the interpreter. I was more defirous of punifaing this infult for the fake of eftabliftiing my authority and confequence with the foldiers, than this ftrange, that I, whofo much reverenced the peace and accord of nations, fliould exhort to war. Your great pro phet, Clirirt Jelus, was the lion of the tribe ofjudah, as well as the Lord and giver of peace ; which may fignify unto you, that he who is a lover and maintainer of peace, muft always appear with the terror of his fword, and, wading through feas of blood, muft arrive at tranquillity. This made James your father, of glorious memory, fo hapr pily renowned among nations It was the noble fame of your princely virtues, which refounds to the utmoft corners of the earth, that perfuaded me to invite you to partake cf that blefling, wherein I boaft myfelf mod happy. I with God may heap the riches of his blcflings on yon, increafe your happinefs with your days, and hereafter perpetuate the great nefs of your name hi all ages." fro;n A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 43 from an intention of revenging the caufe of the Jew, for I could not find out which of the difpu- tants was in the wrong ; but as my attendants had on two or three former occafions (hewn a difpofition to be troublefome, and as fo glaring an indignity was offered to the perfon who looked up to me for proteftion, I was determined to avail myfelf of this- opportunity of convincing them that it was their duty to pay me every attention. Mr. De Rocher, who refides in an excellent houfe built at the expence of his court, and who is the only European in the place, has happily blended original Englifh hofpitality with that eafy politenefs which characterizes his own nation. He gave me ib preffing an invitation to fpend an other day with him, that though anxious to make an end of my journey, I could not refift his urg ent folickations. The town of Rabat, whole walls enclofe a large fpace of ground, is defended on the fea-fide by three forts tolerably well finifhed, which were eredled fome little time ago "by an Englifh rene- gado, and furnifhed with gns from Gibraltar. The houfcs in general are good, and many of the inhabitants are wealthy. The Jews, who are very numerous in this place, are generally in better circumfbnces than thofe of Larache or Tangier, and their women are by far more beautiful than at any other town which 1 faw in this empire. I was introduced to one family in particular, where, out of eight lifters, nature had been fo lavifti to them all, that I felt myfelf at a lofs to determine which was the handfomefh A combination of regular features, clearnels of complexion, and expreflive black 44 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. black eyes, gave them a diflinguifhed pre-eminence over their nation in general ; and their perfons, though not improved by the advantages which the European ladies derive from drefs, were ftill replete with grace and elegance. The caftl^, which is very extenfive, contains a ftrong building, formerly ufed by the late empe ror as his principal treafury, and a noble terrace, which commands an extenfive profpect of the town of Sallee, the ocean, and all the neighbour ing country. There are alfo the ruins of another caftle, which is iaid to have been built by Jacob Almonzor, one of their former emperors, and of which at prefent very little remains but its walls,- containing within them fome- very ftrong maga zines for powder and naral {tores. On the out- fide of thefe walls is a very high and fquare to\ver, handfomely built of cut ftone, and called the tower of HafTcn. From the workmaflfhip of this tower, cont rafted with the other buildings, a very accu rate idea may be formed how greatly the Moor a have degenerated from their former fplendour and tafte for architecture. In the evening tfie conful introduced me to Sidi 'Mahomet Effendi, the emperor's prime minifter, who was at Rabat, on his way to Tangier. I found him a well-bred man, and he received me very gracioufly. After fome converfation on the purpoie of my journey, he dcfired I would feel his pulfe, and acquaint him whether or not he was in health. Upon alluring him that he was perfectly well, he cxprefTed in ftrong terms the obligation I had conferred on him by fuch agree able information ; and having wiflied me fucceis in A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 4J in my journey and enterprize, we mutually took our leave. I availed myfelf of my delay at Rabat to get the lame mule changed, and direfted my Negro foldiers to arrange our affairs in fuch a manner that we might leave the place early the next morn ing. Mr De Rocher, in addition to the kindneis I had already experienced, ordered a quantity of bread, which at this place is remarkably good, to be packed up for my ufe, as well as a proportion able {hare of cold meat, and as much wine as we could conveniently carry with us. This ieafon- able fupply lafted me three days, and gave me time to recover in fome degree my former reliih for fowls and eggs. Though I.muft acknowledge that the attention and comforts which I experienced during my fhort Hay at Rabat proved a great relief, after the in conveniences I had undergone in travelling thither, yet on the whole, I perhaps fuffered more from the idea of having fimilar inconveniences to thofe I had already experienced ftill to encounter, with out a profpeft of a fimilar. ijleviation, than if I had continued the whole journey in an uninter- . rupted ftate. The confideration that I was to pafs day after day through a country where there is little to a mule the eye ; that I had no companion with whom I could converfe, or to whom I could communicate my fentiments -, and that I was to travel the whole day at the tedious pace of three miles an hour, and at a feafon of the year when the coldnefs of the mornings and evenings were a very indifferent preparation for the heats which ilicceeded in the middle of the day, altogether preffed 4^> A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. prefled fo flrongly upon my mind, that I muft confefs I could not help experiencing a confidera- ble dejeftion of fpirits at the idea of leaving Ra bat*. * The Abbe Poiret's remarks on travelling in Barbary are fo appofite and fo juft, that I truft I (ball be excufed for introducing a quotation from that author. In one of his letters he fays, " I have never known (o well how to appreciate the advantages of living in a polifhed nation, as ilnce I have redded among a barbarous people. Never lias the convenience of our highways ftruck me fo much, as when 1 have been obliged to travel through thick woeds and deep marines . How much would a peregrination of eight days, in the manner I have travelled for fome time paft, change the ideas of thofe delicate Europeans who are continually complaining o f bad inns, and of the fatigues they endure in their journeys! In this country there are neither inns, poft-chaifes, nor obliging and attentive land lords. One mud not expeft to find here broad highways, beaten and lhady paths, or places for repofing and refrelh- ing one's-felf; too happy, if, at the end of a fatiguing jour ney, one can meet with a final 1 hut, or a wretched couch ! But this is feldom to be expected." Again, in another letter, " How often mud you depart in the morning, without knowing where you will arrive in the evening ! How oftM^fingyourfclf in thefe deferts, muft you fearch out your way amid ft thorny brakes, thick fbrefts, ;snd deep rocks ; fometimes (lopped by a river which you mull wade through, by a lake which you muft walk round, or by a marlh which you cannot crofs without danger! fometimes fcorched by the lunger drenched by the rain, and at others dying with thirft, without being able to find the fmalleft fpring to quench it ! If you carry no provi- ilons with you, it will be impotlible for you to take any refrefhment before night. This is the only time at which the Moors make a regular repaft, or can offer any food to a flranger. But when night arrives, thru period of repofc for the traveller in Europe, it is not fo for the African tra veller. He muft then choofe out a dry iituation, and well iheltercd, to ere 61 his tent 5 he muft unfaddle his horfes, A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 47 In confequence of the indolence of my attend ants, my baggage was not completely packed up on the 8th till between ten and eleven in the morn ing, when I left the hofpitable roof of Mr De Rocher, and proceeded on my journey fo ? r Dar Beyda, the next town which offered itfelf on my way to Mogodore. With all the inconveniences which I had hither to experienced, I had reaibn to think myfelf very fortunate in having fuch fine weather ; for this was the feafon when the heavy rains ufually come on, and when a fhower of half an hour's continu ance would wet more than the rain of a whole day in England. Dry weather had accompanied us the whole of the road from Tangier to Rabat, and the heat from the hours of eleven to three was violent ; but, as I have juft before obferved, previous to, and after thole hours, the air was un commonly cool. As an alleviation to the great heat, we found the water-melons and pomegra nates between Rabat and Mogodore of a mofl de licious flavour, and of particular ufe in allaying the exceffive thirft. and removing the fatigue we experienced from the journey. Thefe fruits grow common in the open ground, and we only paid two blanquils, or three-pence Englifli a- piece, for wa ter-melons, which w*ere fufficiently large to ferve unload his mules, cut wood, light iires, and take every precaution that prudence dictates, to defend himfelf againft ferocious animals and robbers. It is fafeit to encamp not far from the tents of the Arabs, when one can find them. They furnifli many fuccours when they are traclable, and they are always ib when they fee o'fte with a fufrkient guard." See a tranflation cf the Abbe Poiret's travels through Barbary, Letter viii. 4 half 48 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. half a dozen people. I could not help observing how provident nature has been, in granting in .fiich plenty, fruits fo well calculated for the na tives of warm climates. Indeed, many of the poor in this country have fcarcely any other pro- vifions than fruit and bread. At the time of our departure the appearance in the atmofphere promifed us a continuance of the fame fine weather we had hitherto experienced ; and it continued fo till we had patted three fmall ftreams which the Moors name the Hitcumb, Slier- rat, and Bornica. Thefe, after the heavy rains have fallen, fwell out into deep and rapid rivers, and are frequently rendered totally impafTable, ex cept in boats or on rafts. About five in the eve ning, however, very heavy and black clouds be gan to affemble, and very fliortly after followed a mofl fevere florm. It was a dreadful union of wind, hail, rain, thunder, and lightning. From darknefs approaching fail upon us, we be^ came very anxious to find o'ut a place of fafety where we might pitch our tent, and for that pur- pofe fpnrred our beails ; but no excitement from the fpur or whip could induce them to face the florin, and we were obliged to wait a full hour in a ftate of inaftivity, till its violence was over. We then pufhed on till we arrived at a .couple of Arab tents, pitched in an open country : bad ss this Situation was, we however rejoiced in be ing able to fix our tent for the night, even in this iinibciable fpot. On the pth of October, it having rained the \vhole night, we were detained till between ten and eleven in the morning in drying the tenr, which A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 49 which from its being quite wet, was become too heavy for the mules to carry with the other bag- g:ige , we then purfued our journey, and at twelve, arrived at the ruins of Menfboria. There was formerly a cattle on this fpot, which from the ex tent of its walls, and a fquare tower which form the whole of the ruins, appears to have been a very large building. My foldiers informed me, that it had been the refidence of a prince who was in opposition to his ibvereign; and who was obli ged to defeit it. The building was dcjftroyed by the then reigning emperor, and the intermediate ground is now inhabited by a few Negroes, living in fmall huts, who were baniftied thither for having on fome occafion incurred the difpleafure of the emperor. In an arbitrary country, where the pofTeflion of the throne depends more on the will of the foldiers than on the rights of fuccef- fion, the defpot confiders that caftles may prove rather places of fecurity for his opponents, than of any great utility to himfelf ; he therefore either ftifFers them to decay, or deftroys them entirely, according to the di6t.ar.es of his caprice. Indeed every town through which I pa (Ted in the empire affords ftriking marks of the truth of this affer- tion. Soon after our leaving Menfooria we came up to Fadala, having forded in our way the river In- ielic. Fadala whilft its ruins exift, will be a laft- ing monument of Sidi Mahomet's caprice. It confifts of the (hell of a town, began by him in the early part of his reign, but never finifhed. It is enclofed within a fquare wall, and is furniihed v,-].ih a mofque (the only building that v/as com- I) pleted O A TOUR TO M CHOC CO, &C. pleated) for the ufe of the inhabitants, who, like thofe of Meniboria, live in huts in the intermedi ate ground. To the right of Faclala we obferved a fmall but apparently neat palace, which my at tendants informed me was built by the late em peror for his occafional ufe, when bufinefs led him to travel that way. The remainder of our journey to Dar Beyda, where we arrived about fix in the evening, af forded nothing remarkable, excepting that we pafTed over a double bridge, which is the only piece of architecture of the kind that I faw in the country. It is the work of Sidi Mahomet, and is built of ftone. The country between Rabat and Dar Btyda, a diftance of about forty-four miles, is one continuation of barrennefs and rock. Dar Beyda is a fmall fea-port of very little im portance ; it poiledes, however, a bay which ad mits vefTels of pretty confiderable burthen to anchor in it with tolerable fafety, except when the wind blows hard at north-weft, and then they are liable to be driven on fhore. Upon my arri val, I was immediately introduced to the gover nor, who was then in the audience-chamber, at tending to the complaints of the inhabitants. Af ter offering me his fervices, and begging my acceptance of a few fowls, he loon left us in the pofledion of the room where we flept that night. On the loth of October we departed for Aza- more, about fifty-fix miles diftant, between feven and eight in the morning-, and after a journey of two days came up to the Morbeya, ar the mouth and louthern fide of which is fjtuated Azamorc. The A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 5! The river is To wide and deep here, that it is ne- cefTary to be ferried over, and a large boat is con tinually employed for that purpofe. We had no fooner got all our baggage, our mules, and ourfelves into the boat, and were ready to row off, than a moil violent difpute arofe between my Negro foldters and the ferry men. As it was no new circumftance to me to be a witnefs to thefe altercations, I remained very quietly in the boat till I obferved that one of the ferry-men was putting every thing on fhore again, whilfl another was collaring one of the foldiers. In fact, matters were proceeding to fuch extre mities, that I thought it was full time to interfere. Upon inquiry, I was informed that the propri etor of the ferry farmed the river from the empe ror, and that iu confequence of it he was allowed, all the perquifites of the ferry ; that my foldiers infilled that as I was in the emperor's fervice, it was the duty of the people to ferry me, my bag gage, &c. without receiving any reward for their trouble. Yv r hich of the two were in the right I could not pretend to determine ; but I was very glad to end the difpute, by paying the ufnal de mand. After a few curies on both fides, the bag gage and mules were replaced in the boat, and we were ferried over to Azamore. In a country where arts and fciences are totally neglecled, and where the hand of deipotifm has deflroyed public fpirit, and deprefTed all private exertion, it is obvious, that confiderable tracts muil occur which are productive of nothing de- ierving of notice. This was precifely the cafe in rny journey from Dar Beyda to Azamore, which D 2 prefented $2 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C prtTented to our view one continued chain of rocks and barrennefs, unpleafant and fatiguing roads, without any one object to vary the icene, or to intereft curiofity. Azamore is a lea-port town on the Atlantic ocean, fituated at the mouth of the Morbeya ; and though a large place, is neither ornamented \vith public buildings, nor has any thing remark able in its hiftory or iltuation. In compliance with the particular requeft of one of my foldiers whole near relations refide at Aza- niorc, I continued here the remainder of the day, and was lodged in a room of a Moorim, honie, which was fecluded from the family. Soon after my arrival I was vifited by a Jew in an European drefs, who had formerly lived with one of th Englifli confuls, and who {poke the Engliih lan guage with tolerable fluency. He took me to his houle, and there received me with great hofpi- tality, infilling on my dining with him, and mak ing ufe of his houfe as my own. After dinner he fhewed me the different parts of the town - 9 and in the courfe of our converiation requeued me to be particularly cautious how I conducted myfelf with the prince whom I was going to attend-, obierving, that the Moors were extremely fickle, and their conduct governed merely by the caprice of the moment. To enforce this caution, he related to me a flory, from which I learned that an Euro pean furgeon had at fome former period, attended a prince of Morocco, who, neglecting his advice when under his care, had increafed his malady 5 that this circumftance fo alarmed the prince that he feat for the furgeon, and upon his appearance produced A TOUH TO MOROCCO, &C. 53 produced a piftol. The unfortunate man, alarmed and diftrefled by fuch unworthy treatment, haftily withdrew, and in a fhort time put an end to his cxiftence. On the 1 3th of Oftober, having taken leave of my Jewifh acquaintance, and my foldiers of their friends, we fet off at eight in the morning for the town of Saffi, where we arrived on the evening of the 1 5th, after a journey of about fifty-feven miles. The country we paired through was rocky and barren, producing fcarcely a tree, or indeed any verdure whatever. Soon after leaving Azamore, the town of Maza- gan prdeated itfelf to our view to cur right. This place was taken a few years fince by Sidi Mahomet from the Portugneze 5 a conqueft of which his Mooriih majefty made a very pompous boaft, though it is well known that the Portu- gueze, from the great inconvenience and expence of keeping up the garriibn, without deriving any material advantage from it, had come to a refo- lution to evacuate it before the emperor's attack, and for that purpofe had aftually begun to em bark their goods and property. As, however, the emperor was determined to exhibit ibme fpe- cimen of his military prowefs and addrefs, this circumftance clid not deter Kim from commencing a regular iiege. A magazine for military ftores (which may be feen from the road) was raifej with the utmoft expedition, and the attack was carried on with all the vigour and ability which his Moorifti majefty was capable of exerting. The Portugiieze defended the town no longer than was necelTary to allow time to carry away D 3 their 54 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C, their effects and valuables ; it was then fur- rendered, cr more properly, abandoned, to the Moors. On the day of our arrival at SafM, we pafTed by the ruins of a town, which was once large and conlickrable. It was built by a former emperor, named Muley Ocom Monfor, and is now called by the name of Dyn Medina Rabcea, Its only remains at prdent are remarkably thick and ex- tcnftve v/alls, which inclofe gardens and huts* inhabited by difbandecl Negro ioldiers. Safii is a fea-port town, fituated at the bottom; of a ftecp and high mountain. It is a frnall place, '.ind is only remarkable for a neat palace, which is the occafional residence of the emperor's fons, and a fmail fort at a little diflance to the north of the town. Its vicinity is a mixture of moun tains and woods, which gives it a wild and truly romantic appearance. Saffi carried on a confider- able commerce with Europe, before Sidi Mahomet obliged the European merchants to refide at Mogodore. It affords a fafe road for {hipping, except when the wind blows hard at Weft, and then they are fubjecl: to be driven on fhore. During my refidence in this town, I took up my quarters at a Jewifh houfe, and was vifited by two Moors who had been in London, and could fpeak a little of the Englifh language. Among other marks of attention, they contrived to procure, unknown to me, a chair and a frnall table; -articles which I had not feen fmce I left Tangier, except at the French confuPs houfe, as the Moors never make ufe of either. At A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 5J At eight in the morning of the fixteenth, we fet off for Mogodore, a journey of about fixty miles, which we performed in two days. Soon after leaving Saffi we pafFed over a very high and dangerous mountain. The rocky, deep, and rugged path, which was only broad enough to allow one mule to pafs at a time, and the per pendicular precipice which hung over the fea, filled our minds with a lenfe of terror and awe, which no pen can defcribe. Our mules, however, accuf- tomed to this mode of travelling, carried us with the moil perfect fafety, over parts where, with European hories, we fliould probably have been dafhed to pieces. From this mountain we in a fhort time entered a foreft of dwarf oaks, which is about fix miles in length, and the ibuthern extremity of which reaches to the river Tanfif. This is a very broad river, which after the heavy rains have fallen, or when fwelled by the tide, is always pafled upon rafts. Thofe difficulties not prefenting themfelves to us now, we forded the river with great eafe, and on approaching its ibuthern fide, obferved in the midil of a thick forefi a large fquare caftle, which my foldies informed me was built by Muley lihmael, who is immortalized by the pen of Mr. Addifon, in one of the numbers of the Free holder. Sidi Mahomet neglected it, and it is now falling to ruin. The breadth and windings of the Tanfif, its high and woody banks, and the caftle jaft difcoverable through the trees, afforded al together a fcene, which though fomewhat gloomy, yet was truly romantic and picturefque. P 4 The 56 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. The directions which I had received from Mr. Matra were, to continue at Mogodore, till the return of a meflenger, who was to be difpatched thence to Tarudant, informing the prince of my arrival. The very hofpitable treatment I experienced from Mr. Hutchifon, Brltifh vice-conful at Mogo dore, during my ffoy at his houfe, with the fym- pafhifing letters and friendly advice with which he afterwards favoured me, whilft under the many embarrafTments and inconveniencies \vhich I under went at Morocco, have made the moft forcible impreffion on my memory; and I fhould feel utter ly difFatisfled with myfelf if I omitted thus public ly to acknowledge my gratitude to that gentleman. Before I proceed to delcribe Mogodore it may not be improper to take a (hort review of the gene ral appearance of the country through which I pa fled in my journey from Tangier. The rfl part of the journey, as far as Larache, prcfented to us, as I before obferved, a rocky, mountainous, and barren country, and, if we ex cept the foreft of Rabe a Clow, but few trees or fhrubs. From Larache to Sallee the eye was a- greeably relieved by the variety of objects which offered tlemklves to its view. The even nefs of the ground, the numerous lakes, and the verdure which furrounded them, indicated fully the ferti lity of the foil ; and thefe, joined to the interfered clumps of trees, would lead the contemplative mind to conceive that nature had intended this f'pot for the refidence of a more civilized people than its pr-efent inhabitants. From Sallee to Mo- godore, and thence to Santa Cruz 3 we again meet with A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 57 with the fame barren, mountainous, and rocky country, which prefented itfelf at the firft part of the journey. Though I occafionally met with forefts of fmall treeks, fuch as the arga, the dwarf oak, the palm- tree, &c. yet the country produces no ufefal tim ber whatever. The Moors are therefore obliged to import that article from Europe ; and it may be on this account that the emperor poffelTes fo few vefTels, and is obliged to fend thofe to be repaired in foreign ports. As vegetation does not take place in this climate till forne time after the heavy rains have fallen, I had not an oportunity of obferving in this journey what plants were peculiar to the cli mate. The variety which difUngnifhes the more im proved countries of Europe, and particularly Eng land, probably arifes as much from the land being diftributed into inclofures, as from local iltuatioji. This advantage the emperor of Morocco does not enjoy; fmce, excepting in the immediate vicinity of towns, no divifions of land are to be obferved ; the Arabs indifcriminately chufing pieces of ground, without fences, for the purpofes of agri culture, which, as I before noticed, they change as occaiion requires. The famenefs of fcene which arifes from this circumftance, is in fome degree leflened by the numerous fanftuaries which are diifufed over the whole country; but otherways thefe chapels prove troubleibme to an European traveller, fmce the Moors, upon palling them, always Hop a connderable time to pay their devo tions to the remains of the iaints who are buried there. There is likewife a cuftom in this country, which is alfo prevalent in Portugal, of confecrating- D 5 58 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. the fpot on which any perfon has been murdered, ty heaping a large proportion of ft ones on the place, where it is ufual for thofe who pafs that way to add another ftone to the number, and to recite a fhort prayer, adapted to the occafion. All the towns through which I pafied in my way hither, were furrounded with high walls of Tabby, flanked with fqnare forts, generally with out any artillery, and having caftles, which feemed to be in a very ruinous fiate, fituated upon the moil eminent fpot, for their defence or attack. The houfes, from having no windows and but very few doors, had more the appearance of dead walls than inhabited places; and their ftreets were univerfally narrow, filthy to a degree, irregular, and badly paved. With all thefe inconveniencies, the inhabitatants enjoy an advantage of which many of the more civilized capitals of Europe can not boaft, I mean that of good police. The ftrcets are fo well watched at night, that robberies or even houfebreaking are but feldom heard of; and the general quietnefs which reigns through their towns after the gates are frmt, is a convincing proof of the attention of their patroles to their duty. Their dete&ion, and ipeedy bringing to juftice the criminals, likewlie defervcs our attention. From having no publick houfes or other places to har bour thieves, and from no perfon being permitted to quit the country without leave, it is utterly im- poflible for a culprit to efcape the hand of juftice, except by taking refuge in a fancluary, by which he banifhes himfelf for ever from fociety. On the other hand, the vigilance of the governors and other; officers of jullicc is fo great, and conduced with. A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 59 \viih fo much addrefs, that unlefs the means of lafety which his religion points out are quickly adopted, the criminal in a very fhort time is de- tedled, and as quickly punifhed. According to the opinion of fome travellers, much danger is to be apprehended in traverfing this country, from the attacks of wild beads ; but it is only juflicc to obferve, that during the whole of my progrefs to Mogodore, and indeed I may add afterwards in palling over the Atlas, I met with no obflruftion or moleftation whatever from thefe animals ; and I was allb informed, that a cir- cumflance of the kind was very rarely known to iiave happened. The fa6l is, the wild animals confine themselves principally to the interior parts of the country, and to thofe retreats in the moun tains which are beyond the track of men. Mogodore, fo named by Europeans, and Suera by the Moors, is a large, uniform, and well-built town, fituated about three hundred and fifty miles from Tangier, on the Atlantic ocean, and fur- rounded on the land fide by -deep and heavy fands. It was raifed under the aufpices of Sidi Mahomet, who upon his accefiion to the throne ordered all the European merchants who were fettled in his dominions to refide at Mogodore, where, by lower ing the duties, he prornlfed to afford every en couragement to commerce. The Europeans, thus obliged to clefert their former eftablifliments, con- fi tiering this firft ftepof the emperor to be a mark of his attachment to trade and commerce, and having rcSded lonrr in the country without any better views at home, univerfally fettled at Mogo- dore, where they erected hpufes, and ether con- 60 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. veniencies for the purpofes of trade. The hopes, however, with which they had changed their fitua- tion, were confiderably fruftrated by the perfidy of the emperor, who indeed fulfilled his promife, till he obferved the merchants fo fixed as not to be likely to remove; but he then began toincreaie the duties, and by that means to damp the fpirit of commerce which he had promifed to promote. His caprice, however, or, what had ftill more influence, valuable prefents, induced him at times to relax thefe feventies. In confequence of this circumftance the duties have been fo frequently varied, that it is utterly impofTible for me to ftate, with any degree of certainty, the ufual burthens laid upon articles of commerce in this port. The factory at Mogodore confifts of about a dozen mercantile houfes of different nations, whofe owners, from the protection granted them by the emperor, live in full fecurity from the Moors, \vhom indeed they keep at a rigid diftance. They export to America, mules. To Europe, Morocco leather, hides, gum arabic, gum fandarac, oflrich feathers, copper, WPX, wool, elephants' teeth, fine mats, beautiful carpeting, dates, figs, raifms, olives, almonds, oil, &c. In return they import timber, artillery of all kinds, gunpowder, woollen cloths, linens, lead, iron in bars, all kinds of hardware and trinkets, fuch as looking-glafles, fnufF-boxes, watches, fmall knives, &c. tea, fugar, ipices, and inoft of the ufeful articles which are not otherwife to be procured in this empire. Befides the commerce carried on between this empire and Europe, the Moors have alfo a trade with Guinea, Algiers, Tunis, Tripoli, Grand Cairo, A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 6l Cairo, and Mecca, by means of their caravans, of which I foon ihall have occafion to fpeak more particularly. Mogodore is regularly fortified on the fea fide; and on the land, batteries are fo placed as to pre vent any incurfions from the Southern Arabs, who are of a turbulent difpofition, and who, from the great wealth which is known to be always in Mogodore, would gladly avail them- felves of any opportunity that offered to pil lage the town. The entrance, both by fea and land, confifls of elegant {tone arch-ways, with double gates. The market-place is handfomely built, with piazzas of the lame materials, and at the water port there is a cuflom-hotife and pow der magazine, both of which are neat ftone build ings. Befide thefe public edifices, the emperor has a fmall but handfome palace for his occasional refidence. The ftreets of the town, though very narrow, are all in ftrait lines, and the houfes, contrary to what we meet with in the other towns of the empire, are lofty and regular. The bay, which is little better than a road, and is very much expofed when the wind is at North- Weft, is formed by a curve in the land, and a fmall ifland about a quarter of a mile from the fhore. Its en trance is defended by a fort well mounted with guns. CHAP. 62 A TGUR TO MOROCCO, &C. -CHAP. IV. General View of the Empire of MOROCCO. Situation and Climate. Provinces. Soil. Wonderful Fertility. < Sea Ports. Natural Produflions. Mines. Ani mals. Occajional Famines. Famine in 1778. Ma* ri ufa Ettt res . Bit tidings. R Gads.- Population . Intro- dtiftion of Negroes. MULEY ISHMAEL his Policy* -SiDi MAHOMET. General Oppreffion of the People. Merchants* A S I had a better opportunity of being inform- 4;% ed of the ft ate of the country, and its -pro- duclions, from the European merchants at Mogo- dore, than occurred at any fubfequent period during my tour, I (hail now avail myfelf of that information j and to this I feel myfelf induced by a further rriotive, namely, that it will enable the reader to perufe with more fatis faction and advan tage the fucceeding pages of this Narrative. The empire of Morocco is Ihuated between the spth and 36th degree of North latitude. It is about five hundred and fifty miles in length from North to South, and about two hundred in breadth. It is bounded to the North by the Straits of Gibral tar and the Mediterranean fea; to the Eaft, by the kingdoms of Tremecen and SugulmufTa ; to the South, by the river Suz, and the country to the South of Tafilet; and to the Weft, by the Atlantic ocean. The empire is formed of feveral provinces and nominal kingdoms, which, as in moft coun tries, before their union were diftincl: and petty fovereisnties. The A TOUR TO MOF.OCCO, &C. 63 The climate, though in the Southern pro vinces very hot in the months of June, July, and Auguft, yet is in general friendly to the conftitu- tions of its inhabitants, 'as well as to thofe of Europeans. To the North the climate is nearly the lame as that of Spain and Portugal, with the autumnal and vernal rains peculiar to to thofe countries ; but to the Southward, the rains are lefs general and certain, and of courfe the heat is more exceffive. Moil of the towns which Europeans are allowed to enter, being fea-ports, have the advantage of being frequently refrefhed with fea breezes; and Mogodore, though fo far to the Southward, from being fubjeft in the fummer feafon to have the \vind regularly at North Weft, is quite as cool as the more temperate climates of Europe. Morocco and Tarudant are inland, and therefore, though nearly in the fame degree of Latitude as Mogodore, are much hotter; their great heats, however, are confiderably leflened by their vicinity to the Atlas, the higher .parts of which are the whole year covered with mow, and often favour them with cool and rcf re filing breezes. The foil of the empire of Morocco is naturally very fertile, and with proper cultivation and at tention is capable of producing all the luxuries of the Eaftern and Weftern worlds. It mult, how ever, be confeiTed, that on fume parts of the fea- coaft, particularly where it is mountainous, like every other country under fimilar circurnftances, the ibil is fandy and barren ; but wherever there, is the lead appearance of a plain, fuch as that between Larache and Mamora, and in the neigh bourhood 64 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. bourhood of Morocco and Tarudant, the foil Is black and rich. Indeed I am informed from the beft authority, that at Tafilet, and throughout moft of the interior parts of the empire, its fer tility is beyond imagination. From the flight cultivation it at prefent receives, which is merely the burning of the ftubble before the autumnal rains come on, and ploughing it about fix inches deep, the earth produces, at a very early feafon, excellent wheat and barley (though no oats) Indian corn, alderoy, beans, peafe, hemp, and flax 5 oranges, lemons, citrons, pomegranates, melons, water-melons, olives, figs, almonds, grapes, dates, apples, pears, cherries, plumbs, and in faft all the fruits to be found in the South ern provinces of Spain and Portugal. The people here preferve their grain in Matamores, holes made in the earth, lined and covered with flraw, on which earth is placed in a pyramidal form, to pre vent the rain from foaking in. In thefe {tores corn has been kept five or fix years, without under going any very material change. As little encouragement, however, is extended to induftry in this country, many of their fruits which require attention, particularly their grapes, apples, pears, plumbs, &c. do not arrive at that perfection to which they are brought in Europe. Could, indeed, a proper fpirit for agriculture and foreign commerce be introduced in the country, or, in other words, could the fovereign be per- fuaded, that by fuffering his fubjefts to be enriched he would improve his own treafury, this empire, from its convenient fituation with refpeft to Eu rope, and from the natural luxuriance and fertility Cjf A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 6$ of its foil, might become of the higheft political and commercial importance. The only material impediment to commerce is the inconvenience and inlecurity of the ports. I am well informed, how ever, that at Valedia there is a bafon formed by nature, capable of containing with fafety any number of {hipping; and the other ports might mod probably be improved. It is melancholy, in traverfing the immenfe tradl of ib fine a country, to obferve fo much land lying wafte and uncultivated, which by a very little attention would be capable of producing an inexhauftible treafure to its inhabitants. From this reprefentation it would fcarcely be iuppofed credible, that Spain, which is alfo a fine country, and a civilized nation fhouid be obliged to remit to the emperor, very large prefents of money, to induce him to allow his iubjefts to export corn, as well as moil other kinds of provifions and fruits, from Tangier and Tetuan. Indeed the Southern provinces of Spain can hardly exifi without this iupply. To what are we to attribute this, circumftance ? Is it that Morocco is fo much more fertile than Spain, that it proclucees a re dundance with fcarcely any cultivation ; or is the indolence of the Spaniards fnperior to that of the Moors themfelves ? The Jews in molt of the towns of the empire make wine ; but, either owing to the grapes not being in fuch perfection as thofe of Europe, or to an improper mode of preparing it, its flavour proves but very indifferent. They alfo diftil a ipecies of brandy from figs and raifms, well known in that country by the name of aquadent. Thfo > 66 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. This liquor has a difagreeable tafte, but in point of ftrength is little inferior to fpirits of wine. It is drank without dilution very freely by the Tews on all their feafts or days of rejoicing, and there are very few of the Moors who are difpofed to forego any private opportunity of taking their {hare of it alfo. The Moors cultivate tobacco -, there is a fpecies of* it near Mequinez, which affords fiuifF, the flavour of which is very little inferior to Maccaba. In rny progreis through the country I have no ticed forefls of oak trees of a dwarf kind, which bear acorns of a remark-able frze and fweet taRe. To the Southward we meet with the palm or date tiee, the arga, bearing a nut of the almond fpecies, with the olive, from both of which the inhabitants extract great quantities of oil, which conilitutes a conficlerable part of their exports to foreign countries. There is aifo an infinite variety of fhrubs and plants, fuch as the prickly pear, the aloe, &c. ail in fhort that are to be found in Spain and Portugal. Cotton, wax, honey, fait, tran- fparent gnm, and gum fandarac, are all pro- duftions of this empire. In the mountains of Atlas there are numerous iron miaes ; but as the Moors do not under (land the mode of working iron, thole mines prove of no ufe to them, and they are therefore obliged to procure that article from Europe. The neigh bourhood of Tarudant produces mines of copper ; and the Moors aflert, that in the Atlas there are al- fo fome of gold and filver, which the emperor will not allow to be touched. But I am inclined to imagine that if the aflfertiori had any foundation in A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 6j truth, the Brtbes, who inhabit thefe mountains, and who are mere nominal fubjecls, and pay but little refpecl to the government of Morocco, would long before this time have difcovered them. It is, however, probable that this vaft chain of mountains may contain productions which might be converted to very valuable purpofes ; but, owing to a want of emulation on the part of the inhabitants, and Europeans not being 'al lowed to attempt any new difcoveries, a know ledge of them is not to be attained. The domeilic animals of Morocco are much the fame as thofe of Europe, excepting the camel, which is the moft ufeful animal in this quarter of the globe, both on account of the great fatigue which it is capable of undergoing, and the little fubfiflance it requires. Camels are employed here for all the purpofes of agriculture and commerce, and are very numerous. It has been afferted that dromedaries are indigenous to this country ; but in the courfe of my whole tour I could hear of none, except thofe which are in the poileilion of the emperor ; and he, as I difcovered, procures them from the coafl of Guinea. Thefe are the fleeteffl animals for travelling that are known, and nre only uied by the emperor on urgent occasions. I was informed that their pace is fometims fo ex ceedingly fwift, that their riders are obliged to tie a fafh round their waifls to preferve the power of refpiration, and cover the whole of the face ex cept the eyes, to prevent their fuffering from the flrong current of air occafioned by the rapid motion of the animal. It is computed that, in aa ordinary 68 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. ordinary way, a dromedary will perform a jour ney of five hundred miles in four day?. The oxen and fheep of this country are frnall ; but their flefh is well flavoured. The hides of the former, and the wool of the latter, are both articles of exportation. The fheep with large tails, diftinguiihed in England by the name of Barbary ihcep, are here very fcarce, and are more indigenous to the Eaftern parts of Barbary. The horfes, for want of attention in keeping up the breed, are much lefs valuable than they formerly were , there are (till however fome few that are good in the country, and thofe are generally ftrong, and have great fpirit. The mules are numerous and ufeful, though I do not think them equal to thofe of Spain, either in fize or beauty, . Fowls and pigeons are remarkably plentiful and good in the empire of Morocco ; but ducks are fcarce, and geefe and tu ikies I never law there. The country abounds with the red-legged partridge. In the proper feafon the frankolin, a bird of the partridge fpecies,of a delicious flavour, and beautiful pumage, is found here - 5 alfo a few v/oodcocks, fnipes in great numbers, all kinds of water-fowl, and a variety of fmall finglng-birds. Storks are are very plentiful, and as they are never molefled by the Moors, who are taught to believe it fmful to defrroy them, they become quite domeftic and tame. They are generally to be feen feeding among ruinous walls and caftles, where they pick up infefts and fnakes. Hares, rabbits, antelopes, porcupines, apes, foxes, wild &c, are all natives of this empire. Among A TOUR TO MOROCCO;, &C. 6$ Among the ferocious animals may be enumer ated wolves and wild boars, which are fpread over the whole empire , and in the fouthern pro vinces, there are lions, tygers, and monftrous ierpents. During my refidence in the country, I had frequent opportunities of examining that inoft Singular of the animal productions, the cameleon. Though it is hardly neceflary to adduce any proof to the philoibphers of the prefent day again!!: the vulgar error that it feeds only upon air, yet it may afford fome fatisfa6iion to my readers to be told that I had an opportunity of feeing a com plete refutation of this opinion at Mogodore. A gentleman of my acquaintance there had in his poffdfion, a cameleon, the dexterity of which in procuring its food I had ample means of obferv- ing. The fact is, its principal fupport is flies, which it catches by darting at them an exceed ingly long tongue covered with a matter fo very glutinous, that if it but touches an infect it is impoffible for it to efcape. The moft fingular part of its conformation however, (if, perhaps, we except the power of varying its colours) is the eye, the mufcles of which are fo conflruclcd that it can move the ball quite round ; and I believe it exiits the only known inftance in all animated nature of a creature which is able to direct its vifion to two 'different objects at the fame time, however thofe objects may be fituated. Except in the act of darting out its tongue to pro cure fubfiftence, its motions are remarkably flow. Although it mud be allowed that the climate of Morocco is delightful to a degree, yet it is occafiori- 70 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C* occafionally fubjet to great droughts, which na turally produce "unmenle fwarms of locufts, the moil deilruflive enemy to vegetation that exifts. In the year 1778 thefe infects came in fuch num bers from the South, that they perfectly darkened the air, and, by deftroying all the corn, produced a general famine. This calamity was increafed to fuch a degree in the year 1780, that leverai unfortunate perfons aftually died in the ftreets for -want of food ; many were driven to the neceffity of digging in the earth for roots to {up ply the ur gent calls of nature-, while others were happy to find fome undigested corn in the dung of animals, which they rnoft eagerly devoured. Upon this occaiion of public diftrefs the emperor generoufly opened his {lore of corn, and distributed it, as well as money, among his iubjefts , and every perfun "who was known to poflefs Stores was obliged to follow his example. Thefe melancholy fafts are fo recent in the memory of the people, that they full repeat them to the Europeans who vifit the country. The manufactures of the empire are the haick, which, as was before obferved, is a long garment compofed of white wool and cotton, or cotton and filk woven together, and is nfed by the Moors for the purpoie of covering their under drefs when they go abroad, which they do by totally wrapping thcmfeives in it in a carelefs but eafy manner ; filk handkerchiefs of a particular kind, prepared only at Fez , filks checquered with cot ton ; carpeting little inferior to that of Turkey ; beautiful matting, made of the palmetto or wild palm tree , paper of a coarie kind ; Cordovan, commonly A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 7 I commonly called Morocco leather ; gan-pcwder of an inferior nature 5 and long barrelled muf- quets, made of Bifcay iron. The Moors are un acquainted \viih the mode of calling cannon, and therefore thofe few which are now in the country are prefents from Europeans* The manufacture of glafs is likewife unknown to them ; as indeed they make great life of earthen ware, and have few or no windows to their houfcs, this commo dity may be of leis importance to them than many others. They make butter, by putting the milk into a goat-fkin with its outward coat turned in wards, and {baking it till the butter collects on the fides, when it is taken out for nfe. From this operation it proves always full of hairs, and has an infipid flavour. Their cheefe confifls merely of curds hardened and dried, and has uniformly a difagreeable tafte. The bread in fome of the principal towns particularly at Tangier and Sallee, is remarkably good, but in many other places, it is coarfe, black, and heavy. Their markets are under more fr.ri6r, regulations than might be expected from a people who are ib deficient in mod other hiftances. A proper of ficer, entitled Almotaibn, or Mayor, is appointed to infpedr, all kinds of provifions and corn, and, according to their plenty or fcarcity, to fix the price on each article : it is alfo the duty of this officer to attend conftantly the markets, and to fee that no per ion is guilty of overcharging what he fells, for which, upon detection, the offender is punifhed, by having his hands tied behind him, and being publicly flogged through all the flreets, the executioner occaiionally exclaiming, " Thus 4 do 52 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. do we treat thofe who impofe upon the poor." Provifions both of the animal and vegetable kind are fold by the Rtab, or large pound, confifting of the weight of twenty hard dollars, or Spanifh ounces ; corn, by the Almood, four of which are equal to 'a Faneg Spanifh, or fack; and articles of merchandize, by the fmall pound of fixteen Spaniili ounces, when fold by weight , and by the Code, which is about two thirds of an En- glifti yard, when by meafurement. The Moors, agreeably to the Jewifh cuflom, cut the throats of all the animals they eat, at the lame time turning their heads towards Mecca, in adoration of their prophet. After fufFering them to bleed freely, they carefully warn all the remain ing blood away, and divide the meat into final! pieces of about one or two pounds in weight. As they are unacquainted with the invention of pumps, and have but few fprings, it affords em ployment to a number of indigent people, who would probably be idle otherwiie, to carry water in fldns from the nearefl river or refervoir, and fell it to the inhabitants. From their bing obliged to tar the {kins to prevent them from leaking, the water is frequently rendered very unpleafant. Their looms, forges, ploughs, carpenter's tools, 8cc. are much upon the lame conftruftjon with the unimproved inftruments of the fame . kind -which are ufed at this time in fome parts of Europe, only ftill more clumfily finiihed. In their work they attend more to Jftrength than neat- nefs or convenience, and, like all other ignorant people they have no idea that what they do is capable of improvement. It is probable, indeed, that A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 73 that the Moors have undergone no very material change fince the revolution in their arts and fci- ences which took place foon after their expulfion from Spain. Previous to that period it is well known they were an enlightened people, at a time when the greater part of Europe was involved in ignorance and barbarifin ; but owing to the weak- neis and tyranny of their princes, they gradually funk into the very oppofite extreme', and may -now be confidered as but a few degrees removed from a favage ftate. They ufe no kind of wheel-carriage, and there* fore all their articles of burden are tranfported from one place to another on camels, mules, or afTes. Their buildings though by no means con- flrudled on any fixed principle of architecture, have at leaft the merit of being very flrong and durable. The manner of preparing tabby, of which all their beft edifices are formed, is, I be lieve, the only remains of their ancient knowledge at prefent exifling. It con fids of a mixture f mortar and- very fmall ftones, beaten tight in a wooden cafe, and then fuffered to dry, when it forms a cement equal to the folid rock. There are always unaccountable difcrep ancles and incon- fiftencies in the arts of uncivilized nations. The apartments are if poffible even more inconvenient than thofe of their neighbours the Spaniards ; but the carved wood-work with which many of them are ornamented is really equal to any I have ever ieen in Europe. The Moors have no idea of making high roads, or repairing thole which have been formed by the ancient polFefTors of the country, or perhaps by E the 74 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. the mere refort of paffengers, but are content to leave them in the fame flate in which they found them. Indeed, they are even incapable of com prehending the fimple fact that by improving the roads travelling would become more expedi tious, and lefs expenllve. If we look for -my of the elegant appendages of luxury and refinement in this country, we fhall be grievoufly difappointed. Their gardens are mere tracts of incloied ground, over-run with weeds, interfperfed with vines, figs, oranges, and lemons, without tafte or diipofition, and having perhaps one ftrait walk through the whole. They fometimes low corn in the intermediate ground ; but their gardens are rarely productive of efcu- 3ent vegetables, and feldom or never ornamented with flowers. As there are few or no bridges in the country, I am inclined to believe the Moors are not tho roughly acquainted with the mode of conflhifting large arches , and it is only at their fea-ports xvhere they even w(e boats. Theie circumflances, united to the bad roads, render this part of Bar- bary very inconvenient and dangerous to be tra velled through. The country throughout is ill-watered. Moft of the rivers, which, however, are very few in proportion to the extent of ground, except jufr. at their fea-ports, deferve only the name of rivu lets, and in the fummer feafon are many of them dried up. From all thefe circumflances it may be conjectured that the population is not extraordi nary. When on my return, in my journey from Morocco to Sallee, which required feven days to accom- A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 75 accomplish, I met with no habitations but a few Arab tents fcattered in different parts ; and I had reafon to believe that a great part of the interior country is nearly in a fimilar fituation. The towns are very few in proportion to the extent of coun try, and thofe are but thinly inhabited, Indeed Morocco, which is a metropolis, has many of its houles in ruins and uninhabited. The want of population in the empire of Mo rocco, at this period may have been occafioned, in fome degree by the enormous cruelties exer- cifed by its former fovereigns, who have been known, hot unfrequently, through a flight dif- gufl to abandon a whole town or province to the (word. In the character of Muley Ifnmael, grand father to Sidi Mahomet, we find .the moft fingu- lar inconiiftencies ; for it is certain, that although a tyrant of the clafs which I have been defcribing, yet in other refpecls, as if to repair the mifchief which he committed, he left nothing undone for the encouragement of population. He introduced large colonies of Negroes from Guinea, built towns for them, many of which are ftill remain ing, ailigned them portions of land, and encou raged their encreafe by every pofTible means. He fbon initiated them in the Mahometan faith, and, had his plan been followed, the country by this time would have been populous, and probably flourimmg. As the Negroes are of a more lively, aftivej and enter prizing difpofition than the Moors, they might foon have been taught the arts of agriculture, and their fmgular inge nuity might have been direfted to other ufeful purpofes. E 2 It 76 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. It is true Muley Ifhmael, when he adopted this plan, had more objefts in view than that of mere ly peopling his dominions : he faw plainly that his own fubjefts were of too capricious a difpo- fition to f orra Jbldiers calculated for his tyranni cal purpofes. They had uniformly manifefted an inclination to change their fovereigns, though more from the love of variety than to reform the government, or reflrain the abufes of tyran ny. In iliort, whatever revolutions took place in the country confifred merely in a change of one tyrant for another. Muley Ifhmael had tiifcernment enough to fee, therefore, that by forming an army of flaves whofe fole depend ence fhould reft upon their mafter, he could eafily train them in iiich a manner as to aft in the ftrifteft conformity to his wifhes. He foon learnt that the great objeft with the Ne groes was plenty of money, and liberty of plun der > in thefe he liberally indulged them, and the plan fully anfwered his expectations. Though, however, Muley Ifhmael had no great merit in introducing fubjefts for the purpofes of tyranny, yet the good efFefts of this new coloniza tion were very generally experienced. By inter marrying among themfelves, and intermixing among the Moors (for the Moors will keep Ne gro women as concubines, though they feldom marry them) a new race of people ftarted up, who became as ufeful fubjefts as the native inhabitants, and brought the empire into a much more fiourifh- ing ftate than it had ever been in fince their great revolution. Sidi A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 7^ Sidi Mahomet had different views, and was actuated by different motives. From his inordinate avarice, he ceafed to at towards his black troops in the generous manner which had diftinguiftied his predecefTor Muley Ifhmael; and they foon .(hewed themfelves difcontented with his conduct. They frequently threatened to revolt, and fupport thole of his fons who were in oppofition, and who promifed them the moft liberal rewards. They offered to place his eldeft ion Muley AH, who is fmce dead, on the throne; but this prince, not unmindful of the duty which he owed his father and fovereign, declined their offer. They next applied to Muley Yazid, the late emperor, who at firft accepted of the affiflance they tendered, but in a fhort time relinquiflied the plan. Sidi Mahomet, difgufled with this conduft of the Negroes, determined to curb their growing power, by difbanding a confiderable part of thefe troops, and banifhing them to diflant parts of the empire. This important mode of population has therefore been of late years neglefted, while no better fyftem has been fubftituted in its room; for though the late emperor indulged in cruelty much lefs frequently than his predeceffors, yet popula tion has, perhaps, been more completely impeded by the general poverty which he has introduced into the country by his fevere exactions, than if he had made a liberal ufe of the fword or of the bow-ftring. To acquaint Sidi Mahomet that any of his fubjefts were rich, was equivalent to telling him that he had fo many ambitious .-opponents, who by their wealth would fupport his fons in rebellion, which it was neceflary to prevent, by depriving them of thofe riches. E 3 The 78 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. The only maxim of government therefore a- dopted by this monarch was to keep his iubjecls as nearly as poffible upon a level; that is, in a flate of poverty. This he mofl effectually accomplifh- cd. No man who had property one day could with certainty call it his own the next. The mod devoted mifers, with their utmofl ingenuity, were unable to evade the difcovery of their treafure. If the victim of tyranny manifefted any reluctance to reveal to his inquifitors the facred depofnory of his hoarded wealth, the emperor feldom hefita- ted about the means of compulfion. The forti tude of feveral enabled them to refifl every tor ture fhort of death", but the love of life was al ways found to prevail over even avarice itfelf. But this perhaps was not the worfl ; the heavy taxes and duties impofed by this impolitic monarch impeded commerce, and difcouraged manufac tures; and on the whole I am inclined to believe that the country was never in a greater ftate of poverty than during his reign. Power and weaknefs, rank and meannefs, opu lence and indigence, are here equally dependent, equally uncertain. There are inftances of the ful- tan elevating at once a common foldier to the rank of a bafhaw, or making him a confidential friend; the following day he would perhaps imprifon him, or reduce him again to the fbition of a private foldier. It is furprifing that men under thefe cir- cumflances fhould be ambitious of rank, or dtii- rous of riches and power. Yet fiich is the dif- pofition of thefe people, that they have an un bounded thirft for rank and power with all their uncertainties; and, what is more extraordinary, when they have obtained a high flation they fei- A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 79 dom fail to afford their fovereign a plea for ill- treating them, by abufmg, in fome wa*y or other, their truft. The oaly independent people in the country, if it be at all lawful to make ufe of the expreilion when fpeaking of Morocco, are to be found among the merchants who refide in towns at fome diftance from the feat of government. The neatnefs of their houfes and gardens, the furniture of their apartments, their rich difplay of china and glafs, and their liberal treatment of ftrangers, their bet ter education, and more enlightened ideas, all ferve to point them out as a clais of beings diffe rent from the reft. I wifh this defcription would apply generally to all the people in trade; but I am forry to add it does not: it is confined to a particular clafs of merchants, who tranfaft bufmefs upon a very large fcale. Even thefe, however, though diftant from the feat of government, befides, rigoroufly paying their quota of every fevere tax which the emperor chufes to impofe upon them, are not always. exempt from plunder. If the bafhaw or Alcaide of the town can difcover a plea for imprilbning them, which he fometimes does without much regard to juftice, he feldom fails to turn it to his own advantage; and not unfrequently difgraces his matter's royal name, by ufing it as a pretext for feizing their property. Thus the empire of Morocco, in all its parts, prefents a ftriking picture of the wretched policy and miferable confequeaces of defpotic government. E 4 CHAP. So A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. CHAP. V. Journey from Mo GO DO RE to SANTA CRUZ. Some Ac count of the Origin of that Place. Arrival at TAR.U- DANT. Introduction to the Prince. Defeription of his Palaces'Singular Rceeption.Acfommodatiom. State of the Prince's Health. Alfurd Prejudices of the Moors. Altercation with the Prince. Application from other Patients. The Cadi. Introduction into ihs Prince^ Harem. Wives of the Prince State of the Female Sex in this Secluded Situation. F"i/ible amend ment in the Prince's Comp 'aint< His Affability. C/ja- r after cf the Prince MULEyAssULEM. T Had notrefted from the fatigues of my journey * above fix days at Mogodore, before a new fcene was opened, by the return of the meffenger from Tarudant, with orders for my immediate attendance on my royal patient. In addition to my former party, I was allowed by the governor three Negro foot-foldiers, armed with mu fleets and fabres, an elegant tent, and a Jewiili inter preter, who was perfect matter of both Arabic and Englifh, and from whom in the end I derived the mod ufeful fervices. The Jew who had been prefTed in fo fingular a manner into my fervice at Tangier was immediately, and doubtlefs much to his own fatis faction, fent home. We performed a journey of feventy-ilx miles, from Mogodore to Santa Cm 7, in about thru; A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 8 I days, which from the former part of this Narrative the reader will perceive is not remarkably flow travelling, in Morocco, however fmgular fuch a progrefs would appear on the level turnpikes of England, Our journey, which was on the fea- coafl, prefented to our view one continued expanfe of wild, mountainous, and rocky country, and we had confequently very bad roads. Our pro grefs indeed could be compared to nothing but the continual afcen-ding and defcending of a feries of rough and uneven ftorie fteps. At one place in particular the dcfcent was fo fteep, and the road fo choaked up with large pieces of (tone, that we were all obliged to difmount, and walk a full mile and a half with the utmoft caution and difficulty, before we could mount again. Santa Cruz is a lea-port, fituated on the decli vity of a high and fteep mountain, forming the Weftern termination of that chain of mountains*, which .nearly divides the emperor's dominions into two parts, fo well known by the name of the Atlas. It formerly belonged to the Portugueze,and till the acceflion of Sidi Mahomet was the prin cipal place whence Europeans were allowed to trade. It is at p relent a delerted town, with only a few houfes, wich are almofl: hourly mouldering to decay. The port appears to be much more fecure than that of Mogodorej and from the vicinity of Santa Cruz to the Southern provinces, it appears to me to be the part of the empire which is befl adapted to all the purpoles of commerce*. * As Santa Cruz, before the reign of Sidi Mahomet, was,, and is dill capable of being made of great commercial im- to Europe j and as its origin will afford fome idea how. 82, A TOUR T MOROCCO, &C. On the 26th of October we departed for Taru- dant, which is diftant forty-four miles from San ta Cruz, where in two days we arrived. Our journey to this place was immediately inland, be- how the Portugweze came to fettle upon thiscoafl; I muft trefpafs upon the reader's patience, while I relate, from an eminent Spanifh author, in what manner it was firft raifed ; as well as its fubfequent (late while pofleffedby the Moors, in the year 1737, from the manufcriptof an Englifh gentle man who was refident in the country at that period. " Agader Aguer, which the Europeans call Santa Cruz, is a town of modern fabric ; nor can I any where find that the fpot of ground on which it ftands was ever actual ly inhabited, till the beginning of the flxteenth century. Then, or very icon before, in the reign of Don Manuel, King of Portugal, a certain Portugueze adventurer under took to fettle there, on account of the quantity of excellent fifh with which its bay abounded ; and found means to build himfelf a timber fort or caftle, which he garrifoned with his followers, naming Irs fettlement Santa Cruz, or Holy Crofs ; his African neighbours calling it Dar al Rumi, or the Chridian Houfe. " Don Manuel foon after forefeeing the great importance of this place to the navigation of thofe Teas, and to his pro jected conqueft of the weftern parts ot Barbary, took it into his own hands, reiinburling the adventurer who had founded it, all his expenses, and making him other gratui ties. Santa Cruz being thus annexed to the kingdom of Portugal, it was foon enlarged, fortified, and well inha bited ; and as this part of the world was at that time div ided among feveral petty fovereigns, generally at variance \\-\th each other, it afforded the new colon}', as well as many others upon the fame coal!, an opportunity of cftablifhing a firm footing in the country, inducing a number of dif- contcnted Arabs and Moors, ivMi a view of revenging themfclves on their various advcriun^, to fwearalicgiar.ee to his Portugueze Majefty. " The a(Mance which was afrc-.-^ed by thefe people to the ChrifHan garrifons, enabled them to make frequent incurfions a tonfiderable way UP the country, plundering and feizing upon a great number of the inhabitants, whopi they A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 83 ing in the direction, and within half a day's ride to the South of the Atlas. "We enjoyed the whole way from Santa Cruz a fine level road, through a woody and uncultivated country. they fent over to Europe as (laves. At this period, the Portugueze had eftablifhed themfelves fo firmly on the African coaft, that had not the family of Sharifs darted up, and the attention of thefe Chriftian adventurers been diverted to their new acquifitions in America, the greateft part of the country would in a fhort time have been com pletely depopulated, and the Portugueze would have eftablifbed in it a permanent fovereignty. " Thefe Sharifs, from whom the prefent royal family of Morocco are immediately defcended, obferving the va riance between the people and their different fovereigns, and taking advantage of their credulity, pretended that they were lineally defcended from Mahomet, and that they were fent by him to protect his followers from the oppref- fions of their fovereigns. They foon made converts to their ftandard, and in a fhort time eftablifhed themfelves in the fbvereignty of all ihe fouthern parts of Barbary. In order to add importance to their government, and know ing that it would flatter the prejudices of their fubjects, who had been fo continually haraflfed by their Chriftian neighbours, they determined upon expelling the Portu gueze from Santa Cruz, and if fuccefstiil, tocarry on their attacks againft the other Chriftian garrifons upon the Bar bary coaft. " For thispurpofe, in the year 1536, an army of 50,000 men, horfe and foot, was raifed with all expedition, and put under the command of Muley Hamed al HalTan, who with this force completely invefted the garrifon. After many unfuccefsful attacks on the part of the Moors, Santa Cruz at Lift owed its definition to the negligence of one of its own people; who carrying a lighted match into the powder-magazine, it unfortunately blew up, and by its concuilion made a large breach in the wall ; of which the Moors availing themfelves, they immediately recovered their fpirits, and, headed by their commander, haftened ifl force up to the breach,, before the aftonifhed Portugueze 84 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. Upon my arrival at Tarudant, without being allowed time to difmount, I was immediately car ried to the refidence of the prince, which is fitua- ted about half a mile to the South of the town. had time to apply a proper remedy to this unforefeen ac cident. They now attacked their enemy with lb much energy, and with fuch fuperior numbers, that they loon reduced the garrifon, and put every perfon in it to the fword. " Thus did Santa Cruz fall into the hands of the Moors, by whom it has ever fmce been potfelled. The lofs of this important place proved extremely injurious to the Portu- gueze navigation to Guinea and India, by affording a har bour to their European enemies, whole ihips were accuf- tomed to Hip out from this port, and to plunder and take the Portngueze as they pa (Ted by ; while they fttpplied thofe barbarians with powder, cannon, and 01 her warlike (lores, enabling the Moors by that means, in the courfeof lime, to attack the other poffeflions of the Portugueze in .Africa." My Englilh author, who dates his manufcript in January 1-73-7, gives the following account of Santa Cruz: " Santa Cruz is a city of Africa, in the kin-gdom of Suz, fubjecl to the Emperor of Fez and Morocco, iituated in a temperate air, on a mountain dillant about half a league from the fea, in the latitude 30 deg. 35 min. North, feven leagues from Cape de Guerra, fixty from Morocco, one hundred and forty from Fez, and one hundred and fifty from Mequinez. It is in circumference about three quar ters cf a mile, of a fquare form, the four fides fronting the four quarters of the world. On the eaft, it has a Ipacious plain of fand; on the weft, the fea; to the north, about the diitance of a quarter of a mile, is a fmall village, con taining about twenty inhabitants ; and on the icuth is its entrance, oppofite to the mount of Tylde. " 'I he town is cncompalled with walls defended by feven baft'ons, having artillery mounted on them which cany between four and fix pound balls ; there are alfo feme fix- tec n and twenty-four pounders, but, owing^to their not having proper perfpns to work them, thcfe pieces of ord- A TOUH TO MOROCCO, &C. 85 At a ihort diftance, the ho life, which is fmall, and was built by the prince, has a great appearance of neatnefs; butthat want of tafle and convenience, which is univerfally the characteriftic of thg|Moor- i(h buildings, is prefently clifcernable w*nen it is narrowly infpedled. It is compofed of tabby, and is furrounded with a high fquare wall, which alfo enclofes two tolerably neat gardens, planned nance are fufFered to lie on the ground half buried, render ing them by that means entirely ufelefs. The walls indeed are only of fufficient Itrength to refift an attack from their neighbouring enemies, the Arabs, who have no ordnance to oppofe them with, but they could by no means with- (tand even a weak cannonade from a regular appointed artillery. " Santa Cruz is a place of confiderable trade, owing to the great quantities of copper which they procure from mines in the neighbourhood of Tafilet. It is alfo plentiful ly iiored with various other merchandizes, fitch as wax pro cured from HejaSaxitand Morocco, the bed in the country, Morocco leather, yellow leather of Tafilet, almond.-,, gum arabic, gum fandarac, cftrich feathers, elephants teeth, gold dull, and fait petre, wirch is exported wiili fbme difficulty owing to its being contraband. There are alfo other merchandizes of European Manufacture, fucli as iron, leather from Buenos Ayres, mufquets, fwords, and all kinds of hard-ware, &c. as well as thofe cf Alia and the eaftern parts of Africa, brought thither by caravans, The people are for the moft part of a tawny, fun- burnt complexion, (pare and lean in body, but active, llrono-, and capable of undergoing any labour or hardfhip, pretty good ceconomifts, not much addicted to prodigality or vanity, and are dexterous and active in their trade and bufmefs." Such was the (late of Santa Cruz before Sidi Mahomet ordered it to be evacuated by the European merchants: and it is impcfTible to read this account wifhout being con vinced that what I have advanced, with refpecl to its im portance in a commercial view, is net beyond the truth. 86 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. by an European, and now under the care of a Spaniih renegado. The apartments, which are all on the ground-floor, are fquare and lofty, opening into a court, in the centre of which is a fountain. The entrance is through a fmall arched door-way, which leads into a court-yard, where on one fide are a few out-houfes ; on the other, the fpace allotted for the horfes of the prince. As the climate is open and fine, there are few or no {tables in this country, but the horfes are kept out in an open yard, and held by pins fixed in the ground. There is not much of magnificence, it muft be confefTed, in this introduction, nor did any thing occur to counteract the unfavourable impreffion, previous to our entering the apartment of the prince. The chamber into which I was conducted, I found a fmall room with feats in the walls; and there it is cuftomany for all perfons to wait till their names are announced. I obferved a number of fmgtilar looking perfons attending here; and as I was not much difpofed to make one of their company, infteacl of fitting, I amufed myfelf, as Europeans do, with walking about the room. In this exercife, however, I was a folitary perfor mer; for the Moors, whatever be their object, ^ whether bufmefs, cover fation, or amufement, are generally feated ; and indeed fo novel to them was my deportment in this refpect, that they concluded -Twas either diftracted in my intellect, or faying my prayers. After being detained in this difagreeable fit na tion for about an hour, orders were brought from the prince for rny immediate introduction with my interpreter.. A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 87 interpreter. From the chamber where we had been waiting, we palled through a long and dark entry, which at its termination introduced us to a fquare court-yard, floored with checquered tiling, into which the prince's room opened, by means of large folding-doors. Thefe were curi- ouily painted with various colours, in the form of checquers. The immediate entrance to the room was neat , it was a very large arched door way, curiouily ornamented with checquered tile* ing, and forming a final 1 porch, or antichamber. The room was lofty, fquare, and floored with checquered tiling ; the walls ftuccoed, and the deling painted of various colours. Much of the beauty of the room was loft for want of win dows, which is a defect obfervable in moll Moorifh. houfes. I found the prince fitting crofs-legged, on a matrafs covered with fine white linen, and placed on the floor ; this, with a narrow and long piece of carpeting that fronted him on which were feated his Moorifh friends, was the only furniture in the room. Upon my firft entrance, and delivering the confnl's letter of introduftion, which acccording to the cuftom of the country, was prefented in a filk handkercief, I was ad- drefTed by the prince with the falutation Bono tibib) bono Anglaife ; which is a mixture of Arabic and Spanifh, meaning, " You are a good doctor, the Englifh are good ," and was ordered with my interpreter to fit down on the floor, between the prince and his vifitors } when I was immediately interrogated by every one* prefent, each having a queftioa 88 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. queftion to put to me, and that of the moft in- figniiicant kind. The prince exprefTed great pleafure at my arri val, wilhed to know whether I came voluntarily or not, and whether the Englifh phylicians were in high repute. To the firfl queftion I replied, that I was fent by order of the governor of Gib raltar : to the fecond, I felt it a duty which I owed to truth and to my country, to apfwer in the affirmative. He then defired me immediately to feel his pulfe and to examine his eyes, one of which was darkened by a cataract, and the other afFefted with a paralytic complaint, and requeued me to inform him, whether I would undertake to cure him*, and how foon ? My anfwer was, that I wifiied to confider his cafe maturely before I gave my opinion , and in a day or two I iliould be a better judge. One of his particular friends obferved to him, from feeing me without a beard, for I had fliaved in the morning, I was too young to be an able phyfician. Another remarked, that I had put powder in my hair on purpoie to difguife my age; and a third infilled, that it was not my own hair. But what feemed to produce the greatefr. aftonifh- ment among them, was my drefs, which from its clofenefs, the Mooriili drefs being quite loofe, they were certain mufl occafion pain, and be dif- agreeably warm. The reader may be afFared, that a part of this converfation was not very entertaining to rrte ; and indeed after the great fatigue which I rMcl uadcrgoncj I could well have dilpenfed with moil of A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 89 of their interrogatories ; but inftead of the di million and repofe which I wifhed and expefted, my patience was exhaufted by the abfard curi- oiicy of the whole court, who one after another intreated me to favour them with my opinion, and inform them of the ftate of their health, merely by feeling the pulfe. Having acquitted myfelf to the beft of my ability in this curious en quiry, the prince informed me, lie had prepared for my reception a good houle, whither he defired me to retire, and vifit him the following morning early, when I was to examine his cafe more particularly. The good houfe promifed me by the prince, proved to be a miferable room in the Jew- dry, that is, the part of the fuburb inhabited by the Jews, fituated about a quarter of a mile from the town. It was however, the habitation of the prince's principal Jew, and the beft in the place. This apartment which was on the ground floor, was narrow and dirty, having no windows, to it, but opening by means of large folding- doors into a court, where three Jewlfh families, who lived all in the fame houfe, threw the whole of their rubbifh and dirt. I iuppofe my feelings might be rendered more acute by the difappoint- ment, for on being introduced into this wretched hovel, I was fo ft ruck with horror and c! Hint ft, that I was on the point of mounting my hr/dt 9 for the purpofe of afking the prince for another apart ment; but upon being told it was the beft in the town, and reflecting that I had voluntarily entered upon thefe difficulties, I determined to ft niggle through them as well as I could, and confcnted for the prefent to acqnieice in this indifferent fare. I took pO A TOUR TO MOROCCO,' &C. I took, however, the fir ft opportunity of rep re ferring my difagreeable fituation to the prince, who gave orders for apartments to be fitted up for me in his garden ; but from the flownels of the ma- ibns, thyy were not finiflied in time for me to oc cupy them before I left-Tarudant. The prince's Jew had directions to fnpply me with every thing that was neceffary ; and while at Tarudant I had no reafon whatever to complain of any inattention on the part of the prince. As foon as my baggage was unpacked, the firft object that occurred to me was to endeavour, un der thefe circumftances, to make my fituation as comfortable as the nature of it would admit. At one end of my room I placed my three folding {tools, which I had ufed as a bed on the road, and fcreened it off as well as I could with mats, which I fixed acrofs the apartment as a partition. One of my boxes were fubflituted for a table, and another for a chair, not being able to procure cither of thofe articles in Tarndant. At the other end of the room my interpreter placed his bed ding on the floor, where he flept during the whole of our ftay. Having furnhlied our room, our next object was to confider in what manner our cookery was to be performed. The whole' of our kitchen fur niture confifted of one fmall iron fauce-pan, one pewter didi, two pewter plates, a horn to drink out of, and two knives and forks. As the Moors are many of them accuftomed to the uie A tea, breakfaiting articles we were not at a lofs for. On the road the iron fauce-pan had ferved very well to boil our eggs and fowls, which, as I be fore A TOUR TO MOROCCO, BcC. 9! fore obferved, were the only food we could pro cure. But at Tarudant we found ourlelves in a aland of plenty, without having -it in our power to avail ourfelvcs of fuch an advantage. After a few days inconvenience on this account, I found out a Jew, who contrived to drefs me a few h allies and ftews ipmething in the Spanifh ftile, with which fare 1 was obliged to be fatisfied du ring my refidence at Tarudant. Two hours before my arrival, the whole of the Englidi people who had been fliipwrecked, except the captain and a Negro, pafTed through the town in their way to the Metropolis. They had been re deemed from the wild Arabs, by Muley AbfulenT, with an intent, I prefume, of complying with his promife, but by the emperor's orders were lent up to Morocco. Upon my vifi ting the prince the following day, and examining into the nature of his complaint, I found it to be of the mod defperate kind; but r.s I had travelled near five hundred miles to fee him, I could not be iatisfied to return back with out attempting fomething; I therefore gave a formal opinion to the prince in writing, Hating, that I could by no means abfplutely undertake to cure him; that I could not even flatter him with very great hopes of fuccefs ; but that if he chofe to give my plan of treatment a trial for a couple of months, we could then judge whether the.'dif. eafe was likely to be removed. This plan was approfljy. of 5 and he immediately began his courie of medicines. I have already intimated, that the prince had totally loft the ufe of one eye by a cataract 5 and I may 92 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. I may add, that he had nearly loft that of the other by a paralytic affection, which threatened to end in a gutta ferena*, and which had drawn the eye fo much towards the nofe, as ibmetimes entirely to exclude the appearance of the pupil. The only remains of fight left, were merely fuf~ ficient to enable him to iee large bodies without dillingmfhing any of them particularly. The ipafm was the difeafe which I was ordered to cure. But theie were by no means the limits of the prince's complaints. For in truth, his whole frame was fo enervated by a conrfe of debauchery, that I found it neceffary to put him under a ftrift regimen ; to enforce the obfervance of which, I committed from time to time my directions to writing. They were tranflated into Arabic, and one copy delivered to the prince, and the other to his confidential friend, who undertook, at my requefr, to fee them carried into execution. As I adminiftered internal as well as topical remedies, I made a point of giving them to my patient with my own hand. The prince made no difficulty of fwallowing the medicine, however naufeous ; but it was a long time before I could make him comprehend, how a medicine intro duced into the ftomach could afford any relief to the eye. I muft, however, do him the jullice to fay, that I found him a more apt difciple than any of his attendants. Many of them could not be made at all to underftand the aftion of medicines, * l>y this difeafe is to be underfiood, fuch a fb*e of the Optic nerve as renders it infenfible to the rays of light. and A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 93 and of confcquence were full ot prejudices againft my mode of treatment. In a few days after my fir ft attendance on the prince, one of his prejudiced friends periuaded his highnefs, that I had adminiftered medicines to him intended to produce a certain effect upon his conftitution, of which I had never entertained fo much as an idea before it was mentioned to me. What this effect was I cannot with decency ex plain. Suffice it to fay that theie malignant infi- nuations had too powerful an effect on the mind of my patient, and he exprefTed himfelf to me upon the fubject in terms which I could not hear without the moft poignant indignation and un- eafmefs. I vindicated my conduct as well as I was able* under the difadvantages of an interpretation by explaining to him how impoflibie tor the medi- dicines to have the effect he fufpected ; and how- much more to my credit, as well as advantage, it would be to re-eftablifh his health than to do him a prejudice; that a profeflional man had a cha racter ; which when once loft was irrecoverable ; and that therefore I trufted he would reflect on my fituation, and confider me in a more favour able light than his refentment at firft had led him to fuggeft. The prince began now to retract his calumny, by faying that he believed the medicines had produced an effect different from what 1 in tended, but that it was the duty of the patient to inform his phyfician of every circumftance which related to his health. In fhort, after a variety of explanations, I at laft brought him to conlent to give my plan a few days longer trial, and if then there 94 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. there appeared any objections to the purfuing of it, I would willingly conlent to give it up en tirely. Thofe days being elapfed, and none of the fnfpefted effects appearing, the prince pro ceeded regularly in the courfe agreeably to my dire6lions. The intermediate time between my attendance on the prince whom I vifited twice a-day, was employed in reading a few books which I brought with me from Mogodore, making little excur- fions into the country, and vifiting patients at Tarudant. Among the latter was the Cadi, or judge of the town. This I found to be a venerable old man, of about feventy years of age, whofe beard was become perfectly white, and whofe coun tenance, though doubtlefs altered by time, yet ftill retained a great expreflion of vivacity and fenfe, mixed with more apparent goodnefs of heart than any I had feen in the country. He received me with the greatefl refpeft, and ex- prefTed his gratitude for my vifit in a manner that appeared ftrongly marked with fmcerity. He feemed fully aware tnat his complaint was merely a decay of nature, and only wiihed me t^ admi- niiler fomething to him which might palliate his moil urgent fymptoms. With a great fhare of feeling he expatiated on the inconveniences I muft undergo, from being at fo great a diftance from my friends, and in a part of the world where the manners of the people were fo different from what I had been accuflomed to, expreffing his wifh at the fame time to render me every fervice that a perfon in his fituation could offer. Such an A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 95 an uncommon (hare of ieiiiiDiluy and reflexion, from one \vhofe countrymen are in general in a very finall degree removed from the favage ftate, excited in me a warm ^efire of rendering my pa tient a fervice j among the many queftions he put to me, he alked what was cuflomary for our judges in England to receive as a reward for their fervices. Upon my informing him, the Cadi was in perfeft aitonifhment : "Good God!" he ex claimed, " the emperor allows me only fifty " ducats (about twelve pounds fterling) a year !" I wifh I could have it in my power to give as favourable an account of my other patients at Tarudant, as of this refpedlable old man. The generality of them proved infolent, ungrateful, and many, who vifited my habitation, notorious thieves. From my apartment being in the houfe of a Jew, none of whom dare venture to prevent a Moor from entering, I was from morning to night peftered with Arabs, mountaineers and the worft defcription of towns-people, who were fel- dom fatisfied with my advice, but infifted on my either giving them money, or fomething elie equal in value. Many I turned out of my room by force, while with difficulty they reftrained their refentment at my conduft, and every moment threatened to draw their knives upon me ; to others, who behaved a little better, I gave fome thing to get rid of them; and to a third who, were real objects of diftrefs, I with pleafure ex tended my utmoft ailiftance. On the whole, my lituation was fuch as to oblige me to complain of it to the prince, who afterwards allowed me a fol- dier to mount -guard conftantly at my door, who had 96 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. had directions to permit no perfon to enter my room without my particular permiffion. It was with the greateft pkafure that in about a fortnight after my firfl attendance on the prince, I obferved an amendment m his complaint. His eye now evinced a difpofition to recover its for mer pofition ; at Jirft he was able only to difcern light from darknefs, but he could now diftinguifh, an app^e at about ten yards diftance. Thefe flattering appearances entirely removed every prejudice which at firft arofe in the minds of the prince's attendants ; and his highnefs him- ielf acknowledged that he had been too hafty in forming his opinion of me. The confidence which this fuccefs occafioned, induced the prince to ad mit me into his Harem, where there were feveral ladies who had occafion for iny fervices. Though this afforded me an opportunity of feeing the Harem, I {hall wave a particular de- fcription of it, as it only differed from that of the the emperor (which I fhall hereafter very particu larly defcribe) by being on a fmaller fcale. Upon receiving the prince's orders to attend his ladies, one of his friends was immediately difpatched with me to the gate of the Harem ; with direftions to the Alcaide* of the eunuchs to admit my felt and interpreter whenever I thought it necelfary. The eunuchs, who have the entire charge of the women, and who in facl: live always among them, are the children of Negro ilaves. They are generally either very (hort and fat , or elfe * An officer in the general idea of the word. tall, 2 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C, 97 tall, deformed, and lame. Their voices have that particular tone which is obfervable in youths who are j uft arriving at manhood ; and their perfcns al together afford a difgufting image of weaknefs and effeminacy. From the trufl repofed in them by their mailers, and the confequence which it gives them, the eunuchs exceed in infolence and pride every other dais of people in the country. They difplayed indeed fo much of it towards me, that I was obliged, in my own defence, to com plain of them once or twice, and to have them puni filed. Attended by one of thefe people, after palling the gate of the Harem, which is always locked, and under the care of a guard of eunuchs, we entered a narrow and dark paffage, which focn brought us to the court, into which the wo men's chambers open. We here law numbers of both black and white women and children ; fome concubines, fome flaves, and others hired do- meflics. Upon their obfervmg the unufual figure of an European, the whole multitude in a body fur- rounded me, and expreiled the utmoft ailonifli- ment at my drefs and appearance. Some flood motionlefs with their hands lifted up, their eyes fixed, and their mouths open, in the ufaal atti tude of wonder' and furprize. Some burfl into immoderate fits of laughter \ while others again came up, and, with uncommon attention, eyed me head to loot, The parts of my drefs which fecmecl moil to ?.tt afl ilic-ir notice were my buckles, button;, a -^gM for neither men nor \von:en in this ty thing of the F 'kind. 98 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. kind. With refpeft to the club of my hair, they feemed utterly at a lofs in what view to confider it ; but the powder which I wore they conceived to be employed for the purpofe of destroying ver min. Moil of the children when they faw me, ran away in the moft perfeft confternation > and on the whole I appeared as fingular an animal, and I dare fay had the honour of exciting as much curiofity and attention, as a lion, or a man- tiger juft imported from abroad, and introduced into a country town in England on a market-day. Every time I vifited the Harem I was furrounded and laughed at by this curious mob, who, on my entering the gate, followed me clofe to the very chamber to which I was proceeding, and on my return univerfally efcorted me out. * The greatefl part of the women were uncom monly fat and unwieldy ; had black and full eyes, round faces, with fmall nofes. They were of different complexions ; fome very fair, ibme lallow, and others again perfeft Negroes. One ot my new patients being ready to re* ceive me, I was defired to walk into her room ; where, to my great furprife, I faw , nothing bat a curtain drawn quite acrofs the apartment, fimilar to that of a theatre which feparates the ftage from the auc-ience. A female domeilic brought a very low ftool, placed it near the cur- ta':n, and told me I was to fit down there, and feel her miftrefs'b pulfe. The lady, who had by this time fummoned up murage to fpeak, introduced her hand from the Vn.ttom of the curtain, and defired me to inform her of all her complaints, which fhc conceded I might A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 99 might perfeftly perceive by merely feeling the ptiHe. It was in vain to afk her where her pain was feated, whether in her ftomach, head, or back; the only anfwer I could procure was a re- queft to feel the pulfe of the other hand, and then point out the feat of the difeafe, and the nature of the pain. Having neither fatisfted my curiofity by exhibit ing her face, nor made me acquainted with the nature of her complaint, I was under the necefli- ty of informing her in pofitive terms, that to un- derftand the difeafe it was abfolutely neeefTary to fee the tongue, as well as to feel the pulfe j and that without it I could do nothing for her. My eloquence, or rather that of my Jewifh interpreter, \\ias, however, for a long time exerted in vain; and I am perfuaded {he would have difmifled me without any further enquiry, had not her invention fupplied her with a happy expedient to remove her embarrafTment. She contrived at lafl to cut a hole through the curtain, through which ihe extruded her tongue, and thus complied with my injunftion as far as it was neceflary in a medical view, but moft effectually difappointed my cu riofity. I was afterwards ordered to look at another of the prince's wives, who was affefted with a fcro- phulus iwelling in her neck. This lady was, in the fame manner as the other, at firft excluded from my fight; but as {he was obliged to {hew me her complaint, I had an opportunity of feeing her face, and obferved it to be very handfome. I was informed that ihe had been at one period the favourite of the prince, but owing to this defect F 2 he 3 CO A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. he had in a great meafure deferted her; and this <:ircumftance accounts for the extreme anxiety which flie feemed to exprefs to get rid of this dii- agreeable dileale. As foon as I had examined her neck, (lie took off from her drefs the whole of her gold trinkets, -which were very numerous, and of confiderable value, put them into my hand, and defired me to -cure her; promifmg a (till greater reward if I fucceeded. Confcious of the uncertainty of render ing her any material fervice, 1 immediately re turned the prefcnt, and afTaredher that (he might depend on my giving all proper remedies a fair trial, but that I could not be anfwerable for their fuccefs. There is nothing more unpleafant than the inability of giving realbnable ground for hop^e, when it promifes to be productive of fo much hap- p'nefs to a fellow-creature. It was with pain I obferyed that this poor lady, though fomewhat red, was yet difTatisfied with my reply; (lie con Id not refrain from (bowing evident marks of difappointmentj and even difpleafure, at my heiita- tion, by faying, fhe always underllood that a Chfiftian pnyijciap could cure every difeafe. During the courfe of my attendance in the Ha rem, I had an opportunity of feeing mod of the princes women, who, exclufive of the four wives allowed him by his religion, were about twenty in number, and who did not, like his wives, dh- cover that invincible reluctance to the difplay of their beauty. They at fir ft proved very trouble- jone parents; for upon my not telling them all complaints immediately upon feeling the [ered n:e as ai. i A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. lOt who knew nothing of my profeffion. Befides this,. I found that each of them flattered themfelves with almoft an inftantaneous cure. In fhort, after many fruitlefs efforts to teach thcfe to reafon who had 'hitherto never made the fmalleft ufe of their jmderftandings, I was at laft obliged to adapt my deportment to the capacities of my patients, and loon acquired among them as much undeferved commendation as I had incurred unmerited re proach. Mofl of the women in the Harem were under thirty years of age, of a corpulent habit, and of a very aukward gait. Their knowledge of courfe, from having led a life of total feclufion from the world, was entirely confined to the occurrences -in their Harem-, where, as they were allowed a free accefs to each other, they converfed upon fuch fubjecls as their uninformed underfiandinps ferved to furnifh them with. They are ncvc fuffered to go out, but by an exprefs order from the prince ^ and then only when removing from one place of residence to another. I in general found them extremely ignorant, proud, and vain of their perfons, even to a degree which bordered up on childifhnefs. Among many ridiculous quef- tions, they afked my interpreter if 1 could read and write-, upon being anfwered in the affirmative, they expreifed the utmofl furprife and admiration at the abilities of the Cbriftians. There was not one among them who could do either; thefe rudi ments of learniLg are indeed only the lot of a few of their men, who on that account are named Talbs, or explainers of the Mahometan law. F 3 Among 70* A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. Among the concubines of the prince there were fix female flaves of the age of fifteen, who were prefented to him by a Moor of diftinftion. One of thefe was defended from an Englifh renegado, another from a Spanlih, and the othqr four were of Moorifh extraction. Where the more Iblid and ufeful accomplifli-* ments are lead cultivated, a tafte is often found to prevail for thofe 'which are purely ornamental and frivolous. Thefe devoted victims of libidnous pleafure received a daily lefTon of mufic, by order of the prince, from a Moor who had pafled fome little time in London and Italy, where he had ac quired a flight knowledge of that fcience. I had an opportunity of being prefent at one of thefe per formances, but cannot fay I received much amufe- roent, in a mufical view, from my vifit. It was a concert vocal and in A ru mental: the inftruinents I upon this occafion were the mandoline, a kind of violin with only two ftrings, and the tabor. The principal obje.ft in their performance feemed # to benpife; it was without the leaft attention to melody, variety, or tafte, and war, merely draw- ing out a wild and melancholy ftrain. Converiation, however, forms the principal en- tertaicment in thefe gloomy retirements. When I vifited the Harem, I never found the women en gaged in any other employment than that of con- verfing on the ground in circles. In fa ft, as all their needle-work is performed by Jewefles, and their cookery, and the managemet of their cham-r bers, by their (laves and domeffics, uf which they have a proportionable number, according to the favour they are ip with the prince, it Js not eaiy for A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. IOJ for them to find means of occupying their time, and particularly fmce none of them are able to read or write. .It is impoffible, indeed, to refle<5l on the fituation of thefe unfortunate women without the rnoft lively fentiments of compafTion. Excluded from the enjoyment of frefh air and exercife, fo iteceflary for the fupport of health and life; de prived of all fociety but that of their feliow-fuf- f erers, a fociety to which moft of them would pre fer folitude itfelf ; they are only to be confidered as the moft abjeft of (laves flaves to the vices and caprice of a licentious tyrant, who exafts even from his wives themfelves a degree of fubmiffion and refpeft which borders upon idolatry, and which God and nature never meant fhould be paid to a mortal. After the lapfe of a third week, there was a confiderable amendment in the prince's complaint. He began to diftinguifh very large writing} and he aflured me that he had written with his own hand a letter to the emperor, wherein he informed him of the relief my attendance had afforded him; afliiring me, that his father would reward me very handfomely if I effe&ed a cure. Our intercourfe was at this time improved into intimacy. He ufed to fee me without referve, ind often at a time when he had his women with him, which, I was informed, was a mark of con fidence with which no other man had ever before been honoured, lie made me feel their pulfes, and obliged one of them, who was remarkably fat and unwieldy, to be held on the floor by two of the others, while I dropped into her eye fome i>f the fame medicine which I had occafioa to ap- F4 piy 104 A TOUR T0 MOROCCO,, &c. ply to his. The violent but temporary pain brought on by this application produced an im moderate fit of laughter in the prince, as well as in the other ladies; and the obje6t of it, though in moft violent pain, to evince her refpect to his royal highnefs, declared it to be a very pleafant ienfation. Upon other occafions he would detain me for two, and fometimes three hours, enquiring con- rerning European cuftoms, and particularly thole of the Englifh, their religion, laws, and govern ment. He made fome comments upon what 1 told him, nianifefred an earneft -defire of informa tion, and appeared greatly interefled in the con- verfation. At other times, when he had been put out of humour, after I had felt his pnlfe, and adminiAered to him the medicines, he would dif- raifs me without aiking me to fit down, or even allowing me to aik any further queflions. But the curiofity of the reader is probably by this time excited refpecting the perlon and character of this prince; and perhaps it cannot be gratified at a more convenient part of the Narrative. Muley Abfulem is of the middle fize, of rather a corpulent habit, and about thirty-five years of age. His features are very much disfigured by the great defect in his eyes; the cataract having, entirely obfcured one of them, and the other being drawn quite on one fide by the violence of the paralytic affection. Thefe drcumfrances, joined to the great natural fize and gjprninency of both eyes, a bad fet of teeth, and a fallow complexion, will not allow me to fay that the prince has the fmalleft pretenfions to the character of handfbme, Hi* A TOUR. TO MOROCCO, &C. 10^ His drefs was the fame as that of other Moors, which I (hall hereafter defcribe, except a filk taffel to his turban, which is in this country a diflinftive' mark of royalty. When I firft faw him, he was covered with a loofe furtout, made of red woollen cloth, and edged with fur-fkin, which the Moors term a Caftan. Indeed the only diftinftion of drefs in this country is in the good or bad qualities of the materials. I have feen inftances of private Moors, whofe drefs was much richer than that of any of the princes, or even of the emperor him- felf. The attendants of the prince confided prin cipally of foldiers, of which he has an unlimited number, pages, who are generally about his per- Ibnj black eunuchs, and a few black Haves. The character of Mnley Abfulem is marked with lefs of feverity and cruelty than that of the' greater part of the Moorifh princes ; it pofTelTes however, at the fame time, lefs of that fagacity,. acutenefs, and activity, which is fo ne cellar y for the government of fo uncivilized a people as the Moors. To be explicit, this prince is naturally of a mild and indolent difpofi.tion; immoderately indulgent to his paflions, when he can enjoy them without much trouble 5 and very little ambitious ' of fame. Till very lately he had accuflomed himfelf to drink, to a very great excefs, ftrong brandy, that he has now entirely relinquifhed, and his principal pa/lion fmce has b|aj| the love of women, which engrofTes the whol v of his attention and time. I ebferved, however, thal^ he allowed his ladies much more indulgence than is in general cuflomary among the Moors 5 and I found that even in his F 5 g I06 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C* prefence they convcrfed among each other with as much freedom as if they had been by them- felves. From the (ketch which I have given of the prince's charafter, it will be no difficult matter to difcover the reafons why his father's willies for appointing him his lucceflbr were difappointed. He was rich, it is true, but a great part of his wealth was fquandered on fenfual gratifications j and the total want of energy in his character prevented his fecuring friends in a country, where cruelty and great activity are confidered as the only charafteriftics of fovereignty. The advantages of hereditary fucceflion can only be feen by contemplating the ftate of thole monarchs where it does not exill. In Morocco, where there is no regular fixed order of fuc ceflion, though the emperor is indulged in the formality of nominating his fuccelTor, yet the iword fupplies the place of right; and that prince who can acquire the greateft number of friends, and consequently the flrongeft army, fucceeds to the throne. This eircutnftance is often at tended with the moft fat^l efFefts, and has given rife to thofe bloody revolutions which from one period to another have fhaken and depopulated the empire of Morocco. The emperor Sidi Ma homet, from having no competitors, enjoyed a much more peaceful reign than any of his pre- decciTors. How far his fiu^|jjpr, who has feveral brothers, each feeling an eq/ jjlaim to the throne, will be equally fuccefcfft^ 'time "only muft deter- CHAP. TO M6R6C&), &C. CHAP. VI. Dtfcrlption /*TARUDANT. Country ofVLED DE NON. Markets for the Sale of Cattle. Extraordinary Amendment in the Prince's Complaint. Great Civility from two Moors. Singular Adventure. The Prince ordered on a Pilgrimage to MECCA. Inter cejjion in Favour of tht Englifk Captives. UvtxfcBed Order to repair to MOROCCO. A S it is quite unfafhionable in this country to "* go even to the i>ext fkreet on foot, and as my fituation was at fome diflance from that of the prince, his highnefs made me a prefent of an horfe, which, however, I could not fay was one of the beft in the country. But as I had once engaged in his fervice, I conceived it my intereft to make the bed of every fituation. In the hours, therefore, when my perfonal attendance on my patient was not demanded, I frequently made life of my Rofmante, both for the purpofe of exercife, and fbr the gratification of my curiofity in vifiting every thing which appeared worthy of infpeftion., The following are the principal obfervations which I was able to collect in the courfe of my excur- fions; and I flatter myfelf they will ierve at leaft to give a general idea of the city where I reiided, and its environs. Tarudant, now ;;5 tlie capital of the province of Suz, was formerly^ while the empire was divi ded into petty itates, the metropolis of a kingdom. It lies in a fine but uncultivated plain, about twenty miles to the South of the Atlas, and may be con-* fi.dere.dr 1C8 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. fidcred as the frontier town of that part of the emperor's dominions. The emperor, it is true, claims the fovereignty of the deiert of Zahara, and the territory of Vied de Non. But his autho rity over that part of the country is almoft nominal ; :is it entirely depends on the caprice and inclination of the Arabs who inhabit it} and who, from their diftant fituation from the feat of government, are more properly under the dominion of their own chiefs. They acknowledge the emperor to be their fovereign, and the head of their church, and occafionally pay him tribute as fuch; but they pay no attention whatever to his particular orders, and over their interior government he has not the leaft contronl. Thefe people confift: of different tribes of Arabs, who live in tents without any fixed places of re- fidence. They wander over the country in fearch of plunder, and are fuppofed, on lome occafions, ro extend their depredations as far as Nigritia, whence they carry off Negroes. They profeis the Mahometan religion, though they intermix it with a great portion of idolatry; and in the qeferts, where no water can be procured for tjie purpofe of ablution, they fubllitute land. Their manner of treating thole unfortunate mariners who have the misfortune to be (hip wrecked on their coaft, I {hall hereafter have occafion to repre- lent. The walls of Tarudant, now, half in ruins, are %-ery extenfive, and encloic a much larger fpace of ground than is occupied by the buildings. The houfes, which are coin poled of earth and :e women to live in is named the Seraglio, This is quite erroneous. Seraglio means properly a palace, aod the women's place of refidencc is the Harcin. meat A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. If I menc enough to obferve, that it was an old watch, and in part broken. He therefore begged my acceptance of a very elegant gold one, re- quelling of me to wear it inftead of the other. The handfome manner in which his highnefs made this prefent gave me a much more flattering idea of his character than his conduct afterwards warranted. But we are to recollect, that he was then in the aft of receiving a benefit from me ; that the journey which he was afterwards obliged to undertake, put it out of my power to render him any further fervice , and therefore, to an illi beral and uncultivated mind, the motive for con tinuing any acts of generofity or kindnefs no longer exifled. In the courie of my vifits to the prince, I occa- fionally met with two Moors, one of whom had been in Italy for fome time, and the other in England, who could fpeak a little of. the Englifh language. I mention thefe men not only from motives of gratitude, but alfo to evince, that it is by improving the mind and converfmg with re fined and civilized people only, that we are able to conquer illiberal prejudices. From an impulie of benevolence, for it could proceed from no other motive, fince they had not received the fmalleft favour from me, they in a (hort time con- traded fo warm a friend fliip for me, that had I been their neareft relation, they could not have ihewn it in a ftronger manner than I experienced. They not only exprefTed their diflreis at feeing me in a country where I mufl be continually fub- jecl to infult, and where the manner of living muft be fo very different from that to which they knew by their own experience I had been accuf- tomed 3 112 A TOUR. TO MOROCCO, &C. tomed, but they alfo took me to their houfes, in troduced me to their wives, and defired them to take the lame care of me as of their own fa mily. This was not all , they urged me to allow one of them to go into forne other apartments, which they could obtain from the prince, and almoft infifted upon my accepting of theirs. To' this friendly propofal, however, I could not accede. Indeed I was in daily expectation of taking poi- ieffion of the apartments promifed me by the prince ; and had it been otherwife I could never have intruded ib much upon their friendship as to have confented to this requeft. They continually, however, obliged me to accept of tea and fugar, and many other articles, which from their fear- city at Tarudant were very valuable. Of money they knew I was not in want, as I drew upon Mr. Hutchifon's agent for that article , but of thofe little rarities which they frequently lent to the prince, I was always kindly compelled to take my fhare. Had thefe two eftimable perlbns received all the advantages of a liberal education, what an ornament would they have proved to ibciety, and of what extenfive utility to their nation ! On returning home from one of my vifits to the prince, and having palled the gate-way, which is very lofty, and leads to the town, I was fur- prized at hearing a number of voices, from above calling out very loudly, " Tibib, Tibib !" (Do6ror, d-oclof!) On looking back I obferved Muley Omar, one of Sidi Mahomet's fons, and half- brother to Muley Abiulem, fitting in great fiate on the centre of the wall over the gate-way, vdth a number of his attendants en each fide of him,,, A TOUR. TO MOROCCO, &C. IIJ him. I immediately rode up to the prince, and found him a tolerably good looking young man, of about two-and-twenty. He was rather of a dark complexion, and his features were ftrongly marked with good-nature. After the ufual falu- Ution, and having anfwered his queft'ion, whe ther I approved of the horie his brother had given me, I took my leave; but could not poffibly conceive the reafon why a perfon of his confe- quence fhould be feated in fo ftrange a place. I had not ridden far before I obferved about an hundred Moors on horfeback, who were upon the full gallop, and firing at each other in a ilrange and irregular manner. I was now in formed that this was a {ham fight, performed for the amufement of the prince, who had chofen the top of the gate-way for his place of obfer- vation. As I found it an eafier matter to keep my mind employed in the day-time than in the evening, I accuftomed myfelf to go to bed, as well as to rife, very early. One evening I had not retired to reft more than three hours, when I was alarmed by a noife which I at firfl imagined was occa- lioned by thieves getting into the houfe. There had been lately a great number of robberies at T arudant committed by the Arabs, who, as the houfes in general were conftrudted of nothing but mud, had a cuftom of making a hole in the wall large enough to admit themfelves through, with out occafioning the leaft alarm to any of the fa mily. This I conceived to be the cafe, and fup- pofed that the noife I heard arofe from the acci dental falling down of part of the wall. I im- I 14 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. I immediately got up and flew to the door, which was already opened by my interpreter, who had rifea before me, and there I obferved the whole of my neighbours with lights in their hands, and in their ihlrts and fhifts, in K perfect ftate of confternation. They were Handing as if totally unconfcious where they were, and without the power of fpeech. Indeed the alarm had oc- cstfioned the fame apprehenfions in them that it had in me, and they had juft advanced as far as the ipot where I firft faw them, without having the refolution to examine any farther into the caufe of the noife. My interpreter, though but little better than the others, had fummoned up courage enough to approach the fpot whence the noife arofe ^ he there found that one fourth of the houfe, which was built in a fquare, with a court in the centre, had entirely fallen down, and buried in its ruins two Jews, who were fleeping in the fallen apart ment. I immediately affiited, and we foon brought the two men into my room, where I examined them very particularly, and found them fpeech- leis but fpeechlels only from fright. I muft confeis this accident, which had occafioned a crack in my apartment increafed my anxiety to change it, as it was impoffible to fay how ibon I might be in the fame predicament with the two Jews whom I and my interpreter had extricated from the ruins , but notwithstanding all my im portunities, I could not perfuade the prince's ma- Ibns to work faft enough to prove of any utility. Among the many inconveniences which I ex perienced at Tarudant, were the frequent infults I receive^ A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. tl5 received in the flreets, for which I could certainly have received redress, but the number of new faces which were daily appearing, made applica tions for it entirely ufeleis. One day in my way to the prince, I was infuited by an ill-looking Moor, who, under the fanction of a Sharif*, thought himfelf juftified in fo doing', and there fore in a very rude manner, ran his mule directly upon me, with an intention of either giving me a fevere blow, or of frighting my horie. I imme diately expoftulated with him upon the impro priety of fuch brutal behaviour 5 upon which he told me I might go to the devil, for he was a Sharif. Upon this I found it neceflary to explain to him that I was furgeon to his prince, who from being governor of the province, and having me under his immediate protection, would pay very little attention to his being a Sharif, but would punish him as his conduct merited > that I was then going to his highnefs, and as I was well ac quainted with his n^ine, Should make my com^- plaint of him. With a meannefs proportioned to hi$ pride, this haughty JJharif turned back his mule, and offered smy atonement I could point out, ev-ea that of going down upon his knees, if I would forgive this offence, fo? he dreaded the idea of his infolence being made known to the prince. I immediately con Tented to accept his fub- miffion, but ndmonifhed him, though a Sharif, to be cautious in future how he committed fuch a breach of holpitality as to infult a Granger. * Sharifs are men who profefs themfelves to be the defcendants of Mahomet, ancj on that account are held in great efteero. At Il6 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. At the end of the fourth week, the prince in formed me that he had received orders from the emperor to prepare himfelf to proceed on a pil grimage to Mecca, but that it was his intention to take me up to Morocco, where he would intro duce me to his father, whence I was to accom pany him to Fez, and Mecquinez, where he would give me a detachment of foldiers which fhould conduct me to Tangier. " By thefe means," ad ded his highnefs, " you will have an opportunity " of telling your brother Chriftians what a num- '* ber of fine places you have feen in this coun- ff try." His departure from Tarudant, however, was not to take place for fome weeks, fo that it would not interfere with the plan of cure which I was at prefent pur filing. In the conrfe of our converfation, during the different tithes I vifited the prince, I repeatedly urged him to redeem out of his captivity Captain Irving, the matter of the {hipwrecked Guinea- tnan, agreeably- to his prcmife, and always re ceived the ftrongeft affurances that my requefts would be complied with , but hitherto nothing had been done. I therefore proceeded upon an other plan, which as it operated to the intereft of the prince, I flattered myfelf would be attended with more fuccefs. I told him that Captain Irving was a phyfician, whom I knew to be a man of great abilities (for he really was brought up to the profeffion) and that his advice was highly nece/Tary in order to promote and facilitate my plan of cure, and therefore I wifhed him to be fent for immediately. The prince, though fatisiied with my conduct, was highly pleafed with A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. I I 7 Vith the idea of novelty, and foon obtained the emperor's perrniflion to lend for him up to Ta- rudant. Having no European with whom I could con- verfe, and reiiding among the very worft part of the Moors, who harrafTed me at one time with their folicitations for relief, aud at another with their infolence, it will eallly be conceived that my time was not fpent in the moft agreeable manner poffible at Tarudant. My attendance however on on the prince, and the apparently great amend ment in his health, ferved iu forne meafure to keep up my fpirits, amufe me, and enable me to bear my fituation with patience. At the expiration of five weeks, during which time the prince expreited the moil perfect fatis- faclion at the relief which I afforded him, an or der came down from the emperor, commanding my immediate prefcnce at Morocco. It may well be conceived that I could not receive this order without flrong emotions of chagrin and furpriie. From the well-known difpofition of theie people, I was aware that had any accident happened to the prince during my attendance on him, inch an order would probably have been the confequence^ but to remove me from my patient, at a time when his highnefs was continually informing his father of his amendment, was a -myilery which I could not unfold. I repeatedly urged the prince to explain the reafon of this extraordinary con- duel in the court ; but he was either unable or unwilling to afford me any information. Ccnfcious how uieieis and abfurd the attempt would be to withfland a pofitive order of the em peror 1 1 8 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. peror in a government fo uncommonly deipotic, and reflecting upon the favourable ftate of the prince's health, after revolving the queftion again and again within my own mind, I in the end (fo ready are our imaginations to flatter us on every occnfion) brought myfelf to hope that the journey might prove rather to my advantage than other- wife. How egregiouily deceived I was in thofe hopes the fequel will fufficiently prove. A gold watch, an indifferent horfe, and a few hard dol lars forced into my hand contrary to my inclina tion, were the princely and magnificent rewards which I received for taking a journey of five hun dred miles, and an affiduous attendance on an ungrateful dcfpot ! II A P. A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. CHAP. VIL Journey over Mount ATLAS from TARUDANT to MO ROCCO. Retinae. Dangerous Pajfage over Mount ATLAS. Defiription of Mount ATLAS. Natural Productions. Animals. Beautiful Vallies. Manners and Cujloms of the BREBES. PlElurefque Vitius in the Mountains. the ^oth of November, between feven and eight in the morning, I took my leave of the prince, having previously intreated him to conti nue his courfe of medicines, and left Tarudant, under the charge of an Alcaide, and two foldiers of the Negro cavalry, who carried up the annual prefent from the prince to the emperor, of fix horfes and three boxes of money. Thefe, with my interpreter, a Jew, who ferved both as cook and groom, and a muleteer, who had the charge of my baggage, were my party for the journey. Between twelve and one at noon we arrived at the foot of Mount Atlas, about twenty miles from Tarudant, where we pitched a very elegant tent, which the prince had procured for me, adjoining to fome Moorifh huts. We found the country in our way hither a woody and uncultivated plain. On the following day at fix in the morning we {truck the tent, and immediately began to afcend Mount Atlas. For near four hours we had one continued, difficult, and fatiguing afcent, owing tr nie ' road being narrow, rocky, and fr From its abrupt and angular turnings the its diftinguifh it by an Arabic name, which fh'jnifies the earners neck. 2 In 120 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &c. In many places and particularly on the higher parts of the mountain, befides the inconvenience of a rocky road which was only broad enough to allow one mule with difficulty to pafs, we had a tremendous perpendicular precipice on one fide, and even in iome places, where the mountain confifted only of a narrow ridge of rock, on footh. It was aftonifhing to obicrve with what eafe and'fafety our mules afcended and defcend- ed the rough and uneven paths over the moun tains without putting us to the neceffity of dif- mounting. By two in the afternoon we began to defcend, and arrived at a ftnall village, in the centre of which we pitched the tent. On the following morning, at a little before fix, we proceeded on our journey, and at five in the evening arrived at the termination of the mountains, where we flept that night. The firft part of this day's journey was a defcent on a moft dreadfully fteep and rocky road, which at Jail brought us into a beautiful vale, between two very high mountains, which immediately opens into the plains of Morocco, In a manner that is truly pifturefque and fublime. I confefs it would have gratified me to have prolonged my flay for a little while in thefe moun tains, ib fertile in objects interefting to curiofhy. The few obfervations which I was able to collect in my paflage over them I fhall, however, prefent to my readers, without any further apology. The Atlas are a chain of high mountains, in- terfected* with deep v allies, which extend from the Eaftern to the Weftcrn parts of Barbary, di viding it into two parts cr feel: ions. Thole to the Weflward A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 121 Weft ward, from their height, are named the Greater Atlas, and thofe to the Eiflward the Leffer. So imtnenfe is the height of thefe moun tains, and particularly of thofe in the neighbour hood of Morocco, that though ib far to the Southward, their fummits are perpetually covered with mow. When Muley Abfulem, the follow ing January, pafled over the fame track which I had palFed in December, it mowed the whole way; and from Morocco we at that time could not difcover any part of the mountains which was not completely white. The atmofphere near their fummits is intenfely cold, to a degree indeed \vhich is frequently found to be deftruftlve to animal life. I was well in formed that fome Brebes, who had attempted to afcend the higheft part of the mountain, died im mediately on the fpot, while others who were engaged in the fame attempt were obliged to re turn with the utmoft precipitancy. As December was not the moft favourable fea- fon for botanical refearches, I faw little vegeta tion on the mountains, except the arga-tree, on which I have already made fome remarks when fpeaking of the natural productions of the coun try in general ; but I am informed from the beft authority, that in the fpring thefe mountains abound with an innumerable variety of curious plants. Indeed I have great reafon to believe the natural philofopher would find a nobler fcope in this country for his enquiries than in fclmoft any part of the globe ; and that the knowledge of medicine, as well as of botany, would be im proved by a philofonhiral tour over the Atlas. G fa 122 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. Iii the interior parts of the mountans there are, as I have before obferved, numerous iron-mines, and the Moors have an opinion that there are gold ones alfo; but the truth of this has not been af- certained. I was informed of feveral volcanoes which exifted in different parts, but as I did not fee them, I only give this as a mere report; though from the nature of things I cannot help repeating, that I think it highly probable many curious and valuable articles are concealed in the bowels of thefe unknown mountains, which indolence and want of emulation, fo ilrongly interwoven in the difpofition and character of the Moors, will not fuller them to explore. With refpecl to animal productions, Mount Atlas abounds with lions, tigers, wolves, wild boars, and monftrous ferpents. But except when the neceffity produced by an extremely fevere winter drives the animals into thefe vales or tracks of men, they generally confine themfelves to the inoft inacceflible parts of the mountains. This remark, however, is not to be underftood without exceptions ; for when I was at Tarndant a tiger was killed quite clofe to the town; and there have been many ioftances of their ranging far beyond limits of the Mountains. The means made life of by the inhabitants to fecure themielves from their attacks at night are, by making large and numerous wood-fires, which the wild beafls fel- dom venture to approach. When I paffed over the mountains, I met with no animals of prey, except forne remarkably large eagles. On the upper parts, in fome places, there was nothing to be feen , but an huge mafs of barren and A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. I2g and rugged rocks, whofe perpendicular and irn- menfe heights formed precipices, which, upon looking uov/n, filled the mind with inexpreffibie horror , in others, we paired through thick and extenfive torefls of the arga-tree, which, though it afforded an agreeable variety, being the only vegetable on the mountains, very little leffened the general appearance of bnrrennefs* The vallies, however, prefented us with* a very different fcene. Here we obferved numerous vil lager, gardens, and mclo/hres, which, though in December, were beautifully covered with verdure, and filled with fruit-trees of every defcription. Corn grew at this feaibn in the greateft abundance, intermixed with plantations of olives and oranges, and ferved as the refort of a variety of fmging birds of every defcription. In {bine places imall cafcades of water iffued from the rocks and moun*> tains above, uniting and forming one continued flream, which plentifully watered the plain. In fact, this fcene afforded the mod pleafing relief to the mind, after the fatigues and dangers we had experienced in the higher parts of the mountains. The Villages confided of huts, rudely con- ftrucled of earth and mud, and walled in. They are very numerous, and are inhabited by a fet of people who are named Brebes. Thefe people dif fer entirely from the Arabs and Moors. They are the original inhabitants of the country, who at the time of the conqueft by the Arabs fled into thefe mountains, where they have ever fmce con tinued, and in a great meafure maintained their independence. Each village is under the direction of a Shaik, who, contrary to to the practice in the G 2 encamp- 1 24 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. encampments of the Arabs, is an officer of their own choice. The Brebes are a very athletic and ftrong-fea- tured people, patient, and accuftomed to hard- /hips and fatigue, and feldom remove far from the fpot where they refide. They ihave the fore part of the head, but fuffer their hair to grow from the crown as far behind as the neck. They wear no fhirt or drawers; they are only covered by one woollen garment without fleeves, and belted round the middle, though I have feen fome few cover it with the haick. Their principal amufe- rnent is in the ufe of their mufkets; they are in deed excellent markfmen, and are very dexterous in twirling theii mufkets round, throwing them very high in the air, and afterwards catching them. So attached are they to thefe inftrmnents, that they frequently go to the expence of fixty or even eighty ducats, to ornament them with fiiver and ivory. Their employment confifts principally in cul tivating the vallies, looking after their cattle, and hunting wild bcafts, the fkins of which become a very valuable article for fale. Like the Arabs they have their regular markets for the difpofal of cattle, &c.- where they either receive money or ibme other article in exchange. They have fallen, in a great meaiure, into the cuftoms and religion of the Moors, but they frill retain their original language; and a Moor is frequently obliged to nle an interpreter to enable him to converie with tli em. Befide" thofe who rtfi -ie in hurs in the vallies, Vi'hich a,e numerou^ there are alfo others who live A TOCJR TO MOROCCO, oCC. 12 J live in caves in the upper parts of the mountains* fo that the number of the whole muft be very con- fid er able. From their fecure fituation, the Brebes, although inhabiting a confiderable traft within the bounds* of the empire, have frequently proved very trouble- fome to the Moorifh monarchs, fometimes paying them tribute, and at others refufing it, according to the dictates of their inclination. It is not long fince a general revolt took place among the Brebes, which obliged the emperor to fend a large army to fubdue them; but he fucceeded no farther than to oblige them to difperfe, with out either conquering them, or gaining the point at which he aimed, which was to compel them to the payment of the tribute he demanded. The iituation indeed of thefe mountains does not admit of the operations of a large army, for the moun taineers, accnflomed to climb up into the almoft "macceffible recefTes, foon get beyond the reach of enemies who never before had made the at tempt. Befide the Brebes, many Jews refide in the vallies, and pofTefs feparate habitations or villages. Thefe people are employed in the trifling mecha nical occupations which the Brebes require. In deed I believe, there is no part of the world where the Jews are fo completely diffufed over the face of the country, or where they are fo ieverely op- prefled, as in Barbary. In one of the places where I (lept in thefe val lies, foon after I got under my tent, I was amufed with the found of an inftrument very much re- iembling the bagpipe, and producing a wild and G 3 melancholy 126 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. melancholy ftrain. Carious to know the nature of the inftrument, I fent for the perfon who was playing upon it, and immediately purchafed it. It proved to be made of a common cane, about eight inches in length, perfeftly hollow, without any cork or flop to it, with fix holes before, and one behind for the thumb, between which was a narrow brafs plate by way of ornament; it had a common cord fixed to it, for the purpofe of hanging it round the neck* It in fact altogether fb well correfponded with the defcription of the pipe which was ufed by the antierit fhepherds, that I have little doubt of this defcription reviving it few claffical and romantic ideas in the minds of ibme readers. It is by no means a very eafy matter to defcribe the different fenfations which are experienced in palling over thefe wonderful mountains. Their immenfe height, the dangerous precipices, the vales, which form their depth appeared like fo inany aby/Fes, infpired altogether an emotion of a we. and terror, which may be better conceived than expreiTed. On the other hand, the unlimited and great variety of profpefts difcoverable from their fummits, the numerous herd of goats and fheep which were fcrambling over the almoft per pendicular cliffs, and the univerfal barrenneis of the mountains, contrafled with the beautiful ver dure of the vallies immediately below, formed on the whole a fcene fufficiently beautiful and pic- turefque, to counterbalance the inconveniences we otherwife fuffered. CHAP. TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. CHAP. VIII. at MOROCCO. D&culty of obtaining an A U - . DtferiftioH of the Metr pohs.--BuM,ngs. PrL MiniJItr.-* Ctftk.-Th* J^- y-tot, of th< J* ^ Barlary.-Account of J/COB A, t& EafiroS* Jtvnfl Secretary. _- tbt ew Barlary.JeweJIes.D.eJs. Intre.n the Women. T be Emperor's Palace ON the 3d of December, betwen five and fix in the morning, we proceeded on our jour- nev and foon reached a fine plain, on which we continued the whole way to Morocco, where we arrived on the following day about noon, having performed altogether a journey of about one hun dred and iVenty-five miles. My firft object on my arrival was to iecure my felf a convenient place of refidence in the Jewdry > and having accompMied that to my fatisfadhcn,_l immediately took pofleffion of it, expeftmg anxi- ouQv every hour to be fummoned before pero'r Though, however, his Moonlh was repeatedly informed of my arrival,, yet my great aftonifliment I continued a whole mont in a ftate of uncertainty and expectation, without having it in my power to obtain an audieftce, or to be informed of the. caule which removed me from Tarudant. , The number of anecdotes in circulation through the town to my prejudice, excited in me continual uneafmefs, which even increafed in proportion to T28 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. the length of time that had elapfed fince my ar rival. By one of the emperors confidential friends it was infmuated to me, that his imperial majefty had heard I was young; that I was admiaiilering internal medicines for difeafes of the eye, which was a practice totally new and unaccountable to them; that European medicines were always pow- iiil and violent, and that if I had been fuffered to attend the prince much longer, his conftitutioa would have been ruined for ever. Another even went fo far as to fay, that the emperor fufpecled me of having been employed by my countrymen with a view to poifon his fon. After much perplexing inveftigation into the truth of thefe alFertions, I now discovered that my journey to Tarudant was a private affair, fettled between the conful and the prince; that the em peror, who at that time was not upon the beft terms with the Englifh court, and who had already Hopped all communication between his dominions and the garrifon of Gibraltar, was highly difpleafed that an Engiifhman fhould be introduced, unknown to him, for the purpofe of attending his fon in a medical capacity; that his Mooridi phyfician, out of pique, had perfuaded the emperor, that Eu ropean medicines were too potent for the prince's conflitution, and that in reality his fon was in ex treme danger while under my care; that in fine, all thefe arguments weighed ib powerfully with the emperor, that he not only determined en im mediately removing me from the prince, but at the fame time ordered fome of my medicines to be privately fent up to Morocco, where they were to undergo a ft rift examination by his phy fician. A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 129 ficiaa. The caufe of my not being honoured with an audience, I found to arife from a defire in the. emperor, to be thoroughly informed of the ilate of the prince's -health before he faw me, that ac cording to cir cum (lances he might give me a favourable or a cool reception. As feme alleviation to the uneafmefs occafion-- ed by this ftate of fufpenfe, I was now much more comfortably fituated than I had been before at Tarudant. The apartment which I had pro- cured was one flory high, in the houfe of a very refpe&able family, and was fpacious, clean, and retired. From a Genoeie gentleman in the fer-. vice of the emperor, I was enabled to procure a table, two chairs, two difhes, a few plates, fome knives and forks, and a couple of tumblers. la addition to this, a Jew offered his fervices as cook, who had lived fome time with an European., and who proved an adroit and ufeful perfon. Provifions of every kind were remarkably plentiful, good, and cheap. For beef and mutton I paid, only about two pence Englidi a pound, for fine fowls about fix pence each, and pigeons were frequently fold at the rate of three halfpence a pair. Had I, in addition to all thtfe comforts, been able to have procured a little agreeable fociety, my iltuation would have been very fupportablc, but in that particular I fccircely pofTejflTed more advantages than I had during my residence at Tarudant. The Genoefe gentleman, from whofe houfe I had borrowed a part of my furniture, v/ns at MogoJoro, and the only Europeans who were a that time at Morocco, if we except a fc\y G 5 Spanijlx 130 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. Spanifli artificers in the emperor's fervice, were part of the Englifh leamea who had been Ship wrecked, a French officer, with fome French Sea men-, who were alfo captives from a fimilar ac cident, and three Spanifh friars. Out of thefe I could only chufefor my fociety the French officer and the friars. With the fir ft, as I was acquainted with the French language, I could converfe pretty fluently, and I really found him a moft agreeable companion: he had taken his paiTage on board a veffel bound for the French fettlcments on the coaft of Guinea, whither he was proceeding to join his regiment, and was Shipwrecked on that part of the coaft of Africa which lies in the direction of the Canary Tflands. This misfortune, united to the hard/hips which followed it on his being carried into Slavery by the wild Arabs, and the little profpecl: which then appeared of his redemption, had made a deep Impredion upon his Spirits, and fubjefted him to occasional attacks of hypochondria. The em peror, it is true, could not be accufed of ill treating any of the captives; on the contrary, he allowed them daily a fmail fum of money, and permitted them to walk about at liberty. His detention of them, however, in the country, without any im mediate profpecl of returning home, was a Sufficient: reaibn for them ftill to confider themfelves in no other light than that of Haves. The SpanHh friars, who have a finall convent in the Jew-dry, and who were originally placed there for the purpofe of redeeming captives, as they diftributed medicines to the poor gratis, con- fidered themfelves as being engaged in the profeSIiQn.. A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. IJT profeffion with myfelf, and received me very hoi- pitably; but as, from my not underftanding their language, I was obliged to converfe with them by means of my interpreted, who fpoke Spanifli, the fociety enjoyed with them was very limited in deed. I cannot avoid expreffing my concern for the fate of thefe worthy men, who are diftined to fpend the whole of their lives on a fpot deititute of all civilized fociety, where they are continually fubjefted to the caprice and infolence of the em- peior, as well as of the worft part of his fnbjedts. They appeared to me to be men who had received much information from reading, as well as from obfervation, and they very properly employed their times in the duties of their profeffion, la the offices of devotion, and adminiilering medicines to the poor, in ftndy, and in fuch innocent re creations as the limited fociety of Morocco af fords. To divert my thoughts from the great uneafinefs which my fituation naturally iofpired, during fo long a ftate of fui pence, I made daily excursions through different parts of Morocco; though, from the continual infults which I experienced when in the ftreets, even this amufement was attended with considerable inconvenience. The city of Morocco, which lies about one hundred and twenty miles to the North of Taru- dant, ninety to the eaft of Mogodore, and three hundred and fifty to the South of Tangier, is fituated in a beautiful valley, formed by a chain of mountains oa the Northern fide, andvthofe of the Atlas, from which it is diftant about twenty milesjon the South and Eall, The country which immediately. 132 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. immediately furrounds it is a fertile plain, beauti fully diverfified with clumps of palm trees and fhrubs, and watered by final! and numerous ftreams, which deicend from Mount Atlas. The emperor's out-gardens, which are Ihuated at the diftance of about five miles to the South of the city, and are large plantations of olives walled in, add con fidcr ably to the beauty of the fcene. Morocco, though one of the capitals of the empire for there are three, Morocco, Mequinez., and Fez rhas nothing to recommend it but its great extent, and the royal palace. It is inclofed by remarkably llrong walls, built of tabby, the circumference of which is about eight miles. On thefe walls there are no guns mounted, but they are flanked with iquare towers, and fur- rounded by a wide and deep ditch. The city has a number of entrances, confifling of large double porches of tabby, in the Gothic ftyle, the gates of which are regularly mut every night at certain hours. As polygamy is allowed by the Maho metan religion, and is fupj" ofed in fome degree to affect population, it would be difficult to form any computation near the truth with reipect to the number of inhabitants which this city may contain. The moiqnes, which are the only public build ings except the palace, worth noticing at Moroc co, are more numerous than magnificent ; one of them is ornamented with a very high and fquare tower, built of cut ftone, wb'uh is vifible at a con- iiderable diflance from the city. The Itreets are very narrow, dirty, and irregu lar, and many of the houics are uninhabited, and falling A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 133 falling to ruin. Thole which are decent and refpeftable in their appearance are built of tabby, and cnclofed in gardens. That of the Effendi, or prime minifter, was among the beft which I vifited in Morocco. This houfe, which confifted of two ftories, had elegant apartments both above and below, furnifhed in a flile far fuperior to nny thing 1 ever law in that country. The court, into which the lower apartments opened, was very neatly paved with glazed blue and white tiling, and had in its centre a beautiful fountain. The upper apartments were connected together, by a broad gallery, the bail lift res of which were painted of different colours. The hot and cold baths were very large, and had every convenience which art couM afford. Into the garden, which was laid out in a tolerably neat ftilc, opened a room adjoining to the houfe, which had a broaa arched entrance, but no doer, beautifully orna mented with checquered tiling; and at both ends of the apartment the walls were entirely covered with looking-glafs. The liooring of all the rooms was covered with beautiful carpeting, the walls ornamented with Large and valuable looking- glafTes, intermixed with watches and clocks in glafs cafe?. The ceiling was carved wood-rwork, painted of different colours, and the whole was in a fuperior flile of Moorifh grandeur. This and ^a few others are the only decent habitations in Morocco. The generality of them ferve, only to imprefs the traveller with the idea of a miler- able and defcrtcd city. The KicaiiFeria is a particular part of the town where Hulls and other valuable articles are ex- poled 134 ^ TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. pofed to fale. It con fills of a number of fmall {hops, formed in the walls of the houfes, about a yard from the ground, of fuch a height within as jufl to admit a man to fit in one of them crofs- legged. The goods and drawers are fo arranged round him, that when he ferves his cuflomers, who are Handing all the time out in the ftreet, he can reach down any article he wants, without being under the neceffity of moving. Thefe fhops,. which are found in all the other towns of the empire, are fufficient to afford a jftriking example of the indolence of the Moors. There are three daily markets in different parts of the town at Morocco, where provifions are fold, and two weekly fairs or markets for th.e dif- pofal of cattle, where the fame cuftom is obferved as at Tarudant. The city is fupplied with water by means of wooden pipes connected with the neighbouring ftreams, which empty themfelves into refervoirs placed for the purpofe in the fuburbs, and fome few in the centre of the town. The caftle is a large and ruinous building, the outer walls of which enclofe a fpace of ground about three miles in circumference. It has a t mofque built by Muley Abdallah, father to Sidi Mahomet, on the top of which are three large balls ; thefe, the Moors allege, are formed of folid gold, but as no perfon is permitted to afcend to them, we muft truft to their word for the truth of this affertion. The caftle is aimoft a town of itfelf ; it contains a number of inhabitants, who in fome department or other are in the iervice of the emperor,, and all under the direction of a par ticular A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 1 35 ticular Alcaide, who is quite independent of the governor of the town. On the outfide of the caftle, between the Moorifh town and tlie Jewdry, are feveral imall, diftincl: pavilions, enclofed in gardens of orange- trees, which are intended as occafional places of refidence for inch of the emperor's ions or bro thers as happen to be at Morocco. As they are covered with coloured tiling, they have at a fmall diftance rather a neat appearance, but upon ap proaching or entering them, that effect in a great meafure ceaies. It is a fmgular circumftance, that in the imme diate vicinity of Morocco, for fome diftance round the city, the ground is totally occupied by a great number of rats, of\a larger fpecies than any I had ever before feen, which burrow under ground 3 and like rabbits, allow ft rangers to approach very near before they retire to their holes. They indeed gave me every idea of a rabbit-warren in miniature. The Jews 5 who are at this place pretty numer ous, have a feparate town to themfelves, walled in, and under the charge of an Alcaide, appointed by the emperor. It has two large gates, which are regularly (hut every evening about nine o'clock, after which time no perfon whatever is permitted to enter or go out of the Jewdry, till they are opened again the following morning. The Jews have a market of their own, and, as at Tarudant, when they enter the Moorifh town, caftle, or palace, they are always compelled to be bare footed.. I The 136 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. The Jews in general are obliged to pay to the emperor a certain annual income, in proportion to their numbers, which is a confiderable income, in dependent of his arbitrary exactions. Thofe of Mo rocco were exempted by Sidi Mahomet from this tax, and in its room he compelled them to take goods of him, of which they were to difpoie in the befl manner they could, and pay him five times their value j by which means they were far greater fufferers than if they paid the annual tax. Every part of the empire more or lefs abounds with Jews, who orignally weie expelled from Spain and Portugal and who fled into Barbary as a place of refuge. Thefe people are not confined to towns but are fpread over the whole face of the country, Mount Atlas itfelf, as was before mentioned, not excepted. In every country where they rcfide, thefc un fortunate people are treated as another clafs of beings j but in no part of the world are they fo feverely and undefervedly oppreffed as in Barbary, where the whole country depends upon their in- duftry and- ingenuity, and could fcarcely iiibfiit as a nation without their aililtance. They are the only mechanics in this part of the world, and have the whole management of all pecuniary and commercial matters, except the collecting of the cuftoms. They are, however, intruded in the coinage of money, as I mylelf have witnefTed*. * Doubloons and hard dollars are current in this country : but the coins peculiar to it are, gold ducats^ of the value of ten hard dollars, feme of five, of cne and a half, and of hers of only one; ounces, of the value of about five pence En- A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 137 The Moors difplay more humanity to their hearts than to the Jews. I have feen frequent inflances where individuals. of this unhappy people were beaten io feverely, as to be left almoft life- lefs on the ground, and that without being able to obtain the leaft redrefs whatever, as the ma- giftrates always aft with the moft culpable par tiality when a Moor and a Jew are the parties in a fuit. What they lofe by oppreffion, however, they in a great meafure make up by their iuperior addrefs and fagacity, which frequently enables them to over-reach the Moors as I cannot com pliment the Jews of Barbary in general upon their probity and principle. Jacob Attal, the emperor's Jewifli and favour ite fecretary, had more influence with his royal mafter, and did more miichief by his intrigues and addrefs, than all the other miniAers put to gether. This young man who was a native of Tunis, and who was tolerably well acquainted with the English, Spanifh, Italian, French, and Arabic languages, was of an aftive and entepriz- ing mind, and had fo well informed himfelf of the natural difpofition of the Moors, and particu larly of th.it of Sidi Mahomet, that he had gained an entire afcendency over the emperor. As he knew that an unbounded love of money was the ruling paffion of his royal mailer, he not only glifh ; and blanquils, of five farthings, both filver coins; fluces, which are of copper, twenty-four being equal to a blanquil ; but ounces are the money in which bills are iifually drawn in the country. All the emperor's coins have his name in Arabic (lamped on one fide, and on the ether the date, and place at which they were coined. furren- 138 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. furrendered to him half of his own gains, but alfo furniftied the emperor with the earl'ieft and beft information concerning thofe who were in pofTeffion of wealth, as well as with a projeft for extrafting it from them. By thus attacking the emperor on the weakeft fide, he'fecured his frienddiip 5 but he iecured it by means which ex- pofed him to the refentment and revenge of thou- fands as foon as the emperor died, which has been fince too fatally proved. I mutt, however, do this young man the juftice to add, that throughout the whole of his adminiftration, though in fome inftances, perhaps, contrary to his own interefl he mewed an exclufive preference to the Englifh' , and of this the Moors in general were fo fenfible, that they gave him the appellation of the Englifh ambafTador. The Jews in inoft parts of this empire live en- entirely feparate from the Moors ; and though in other refpefts opprefTed, are allowed the free exercife of their religion. Many of them, how ever, to avoid the arbitrary treatment which they conftantly experience, have become converts to the Mahometan faith ; upon which they are ad mitted to all the privileges of Moors, though they lofe their real eftimation in the opinion of both fefts. In moft of the fea-port towns, and particularly at Tetuan and Tangier, the Jews have a tolerable {mattering of Spanifti; but at Morocco, Taru- dant, and all the inland towns, they can only fpeak Arabic and a little Hebrew. They nearly follow the cuftoms of the Moors, except in their religious ceremonies , and in that particular they are A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. I 39 are by far more fuperftitious than the European Tews. , t , * r The Jews of Barbary fhave their heads dole, and wear their beards long-, their drefs indeed, altogether, differs very little from that of the Moors (which I fliall hereafter defcribe) except in their being obliged to appear externally in black. For which purpofe they wear a biack cap, t flippers, and inftead of the haick worn by the Moors, fubffitute the Alberoce, a cloak made ot black wool, which c@vers the fchole of the under drefs. The Jews are not permitted to go out ot the country, but by an exprefs order from the emperor ; nor are they allowed to wear a fword, or ride a horie, though they are indulged in the ufe of mules. This arifes from an opinion pre valent among the Moors, that the horfe is too noble an animal to be employed in the fervice ot fuch infidels as Jews. The drefs of the Jewifh women confiits ot a fine linen iliirt with large and loofe Qeeves, which hang almoft to the ground ; over the (hirt is worn a caftan, a loofe drefs made of woollen, cloth, or velvet, of any colour reaching as low as the hips, and coveting the whole of the body, except the neck and bread which are left open, and the edges of the Caftan as worn by the Jeweffes of Morocco, are embroidered with gold. In addition to thefe is the Geraldito, or petticoats, made of fine green woollen cloth, the edges and corners of which are fometimes embroidered with gold. They are fattened by a broad fafti of filk and gold, which furrounds the waift, and the ends of it are fuffered to hang dowa behind, in an eafy manner. 140 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. This is the drefs they wear in the houfe, but when they go abroad, they throw over it the haick. The unmarried women wear their hair plaited in different folds, and hanging down be hind. They have a very graceful and becoming method of putting a wreath of wrought filk round the head, and tying it behind in a bow. This drefs fets off their features to great advan tage, and diftinguUhes them from the married women, who cover their heads with a red filk handkerchief, which they tie behind, and over it put a filk fafh leaving the ends to hang loofe on their backs. None of the Jewifh women ufe {lockings, but wear red flipper?, curioufly em broidered with gold. They wear very large gold ear-rings, at the lower part of their ears, and at the upper three fmall ones fet with pearls or pre cious {tones.. Their necks are loaded with beads, and their fingers with fmall gold or filver rings. Round each wriifc and ankle they wear large foiid filver bracelets ; and the rich have gold and filver chains fufpended from the fafh behind. Their marriages are celebrated with much fei- tivity for fome time previous to the ceremony, and the intended bride with all her female relations; go through the form of having their faces painted red and white, and their hands and feet (rained yellow, with an herb named henna. A variety of figures are marked out on them with a needle, and then this herb, which is powdered and mixed with water into a pafte, is worked into the holes made by the needle, and thefe marks continue on the hands and feet for a long fpace of time. Upon the death of a Jew (before and after burial) all the A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 14* the female relations, with other women hired for the purpofe, afTemble in the room of the deceafed, and for feveral days lament his lofs by moft dreadful flirieks and howlings, and tearing their cheeks and hair. The JewefTes of this empire in general are very beautiful and remarkably fair. They marry very young, and when married, though they are not obliged to hide their faces in the ftreet, yet at home they are frequently treated with the fame ie verity as the Moorifti women. Like the Moors, the Jewifh men and women at Morocco eat fepa- rate ; and the unmarried women are not permitted to go out except on particular occafions, and then always with their faces covered. A difpofition for intrigue in the female fex is always found to accompany tyrannical conduct and undue reftraint on the part of ours , and this d-ifpofition is again made the excufe For the con tinuance of thefe reftraints. Thus the effect be comes a caufe, and when the women ceafe to be the guardians of their own honour, they derive no credit from the prefervation of it, and incur in their own eflimation but Httle difgrace by its lofs. The Jews allege, in extenuation of their fc- verity, the licentious inclinations and artful difpo- fitions of their women, and that a fingle a<5t of criminality in a daughter would be an effectual bar to her ever forming a legal connection. The fame objection not being fo applicable to their married women, they are permitted to go out without reftraint. Indeed many of their hufbands, from interefled motives, are too apt to connive at a conduft, which, in other countries would in fallibly 142 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. fallibly bring down upon them well-merited con tempt. The palace of Morocco is an ancient building, furrounOed by a fquare wall, the height of which nearly excludes from the view of the fpeftator the other buildings. Its principal gates are con- fir uftcd with Gothic arches compofcd of cut ftone, which conduft to leveral open and fpacious courts ; through theie it is neceflary to pafs be fore we reach any of the buildings. The^e open courts were ufed by Sidi Mahomet for the put- pofes of tranfafting public bufmefs and exercifing his troops. The habitable part of the palace confifts of fe- veral irregular fquare pavilions, built of tabby, and whitened over ; fome of which communicate with each other, others are diftinft and moft of them receive their names from the different towns of the empire. The principal pavilion is named by the Moors the Douhar, and is more properly the palace or feraglio than any of the others. It confifts of the emperor's place of rcfidence, and the Harem, forming altogether a building of con- fiderable extent. The other pavilions are merely for the purpofes of pleafure or bufmefs, and are quite diftinft from the Douhar. The Mogodore pavilion, ib named from the emperor's partiality to that town, has by far the faireft claim to grandeur and magnificence. This apartment was the work of Sidi Mahomet, and is lofty and fquare. It is built of cut ftone, hand- fomely ornamented with windows, and covered with varnifhed tiles of various colours ; and its elegance and neatnefs, contrafted altogether with the A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 143 Simplicity and irregularity of the other buildings, produce a moft ftriking effeft. In the infide, be- fides feveral othe - apartments, we find in the pa vilion a ipacious room, floored with blue and white checquered tiling, its ceilinp covered with curioufly carved and painted wood, and its ftuc- coed walls varioufly .ornamented with looking- glafles and watches, regularly difpofed in glafs cafes. To this pavilion Sidi Mahomet manirdled an exclufive preference, frequently retiring to it both for the purpofes of bufmefs, and of re creation. The apartments of the emperor have in general a much fmailer complement of furniture than thofe of the Moors in the inferior walks of life. Handibme carpetting, a matrals on the ground, covered with fine linen, a couch, and a couple of European bedfleads, are the principal articles they contain. The gardens within the walls of the palace, of which he has feveral, are very neat ; they contain orange and olive trees, varioufly dif pofed and arranged, and interfered with ftreams of water, fountains and refervoirs. Thofe on the mitfide are nothing more than large tracts of ground, irregularly planted with olives ; having four fquare walks, and furrounded by walls. In introducing the defcription of the 'palace in this place, I have rather deviated from the chro nological feries of my narrative, as the events, which brought me acquainted with this f acred refidence of the Moorifh princes were poflerior to my vifiting all the other quarters of the metro polis, CHAP- 144 A TOUR TO MORCCO, &C. CHAP. IT. Introduction to the Emperor. Converfation with his his Moori/Jj Majcfty. Account of the Emperor SIDI MA H o M E T -his Character bis extreme Avarice- his miferable Situation. Anecdotes relative to the late Emperor. Anecdotes of SIDI MAHOMET his De ceit and Hypocrify his Charity. Pufillanimous Con duct of the European Powers, Ceremonies of the Court of MOROCCO. Exaftions from Strangers. Account of the principal Officers of S' ate. Character of the late Prime Minifler. Revenues of MOROCCO. Wealth of the Empjror, lefs than generally imagined. The Army of the Emperar hoiu commanded his Navy. Internal Government of the Empire. Bafha comply with their demands. I found the emperor Sidi Mahomet to be a tall thin old man, of near eighty years of age, and of a fallow complexion. From a viiage naturally long, and a diftortion of one eye, united with au acquired habit of aufterity, his appearance at firil was rather difgufting to grangers ; but that im- preilion was fbon worn off by the affability of his converfation, which he generally confined to thofe iubjecls he thought mofr. adapted to the perfbn \vith whom he converted.. At the fame time he difplayed a great defire ^acquire information, as well as to dilcover the abilities of others. Some years ago he fo far loft t&e ufe of his feet as to difable him from walking. This dy&greeable effect was probably owing to want of 'uie, and to his accuitom- W A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. accuftoming himfelf conftantly to be either in his carriage or on horfeback. When I faw him, his beard and eye-brows, though before, as I was informed, very dark, had acquired a perfect white - neis, and his voice was much impaired. His drefs was exaftly fimilar to that of other Moors, differ ing only in the finenels of the materials, and he was only diftinguiihed from his fubjedls by a lar ger retinue, riding in a carriage, or when on horfeback having an umbrella carried before him. From the general tenour of his conduft through out his reign, and from his converiation, Sidi Mahomet appears to have pofTefTed ftrong natural talents, to which had a good education been united, he might have proved a great monarch. But the want of education, and the illiberality and fu- perjftition of his religion, betrayed him frequently into cruelty; and the pofTeilion of arbitrary power tinged his chara&er with that intolerable caprice which has ever diftingmfhed and difgraced the- Moorifh princes.- Avaricious from his youth, he gave his whole: attention to the accumulation of wealth j and it- was from that motive only that he appeared to> give more encouragement to European merchants than any of his predeceflbrs. It is at the fame^ time well known, that he occalionally opprefTed them with fuch heavy duties, that they have beer* obliged to fend home their velTels empty.. In hopes, of adding ftill more to his treaiures, Sidi Mahomet became himfelf a merchant, took up goods from, Europeans, and obliged the Jews to pay him five: times their value for them; fo that there was not: H. 5. afmgje; 154 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. a Tingle refource for becoming rich of which he did not avail himfelf. Avaricious to this excefs, and naturally of a very timid difpofition, his great object has been peace: well aware that war could neither enrich him, nor contribute to his enjoy ments in any refpeft. His reign, it is true, has been diflinguifhed by fewer inftances of cruelty than that of any of his predecefTors, but he has certainly exceeded them all in the licentioufnefs of his attacks upon private property. He was always furrounded by people, who, for the fake of rifing into favour, were at nil times ready to give him information concern-* ing any of his fubjefts who were rich. It was then his ufual courie of proceeding, to invent ibme plea for confining them in prifon; and if that did not facceed, he put them in irons, chain ed them down, and proceeded in a courfe of fevcrity and cruelty, till at laft, wearied out with punifhments and difgraces, the unfortunate vic tims furrendered the whole of their pofleilions \ which alone procured them the enjoyment of liberty, an oportunity of again obtaining fufiftence, or perhaps of once more becoming the prey of the rapacious monarch. Such of his fons a& were in friendfhip with him, were continually making him prefents, as if apprehenfive of the fame fate 5 and fmce I left the country it has been (Irong'y reported that my patient Mulcy Abfu- lem, who was the only fon for whom the empe ror profeiTed much affecYion, was plundered by his father of the greateft part of his riches * which indeed were reputed to be very confider- able. A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 155 Vices are never folitary ; and thofe which are moft naturally connected with an avaricious and timid difpofition, are jealoufy and fufpicion. Con- fcious how little he deferved the affection f his people, and latterly fenfible of having totally loft it, Sidi Mahomet was in conftant fear of aflafTma- tion and poifon. In this flate he dragged on a miferable exigence; an example to arbitrary kings, and a living proof that the picture exhibited of the Roman tyrant, by the farcaftic hiftorian, was not overcharged. He feldom ftirred out of his palace, unleis accompanied by a numerous band of foldiers, and even of thefe he had always his fufpicions. At night he had conftantly fix blood hounds in his chamber, and relying more on the fidelity of the irrational creation than on man, he thought thefe a more certain guard than his foldiers. His victuals were drefled and tafted in his prefence; and at dinner, though no perfbn was permitted to eat immediately with him, yet he always had fome of his fons and miniflers in the fame apartment, who were helped out of his difh. To complete the mifery of this unfortunate old man, he lived under the continual apprehenfion of being conquered by his eld eft ion Muley Yazid, the late emperor, who, in confequence of fome ill treatment received from his father, retired fecretly from court, and took refuge in a fanctuary near, Tetuan. This prince, whole grandmother was an Englifh, woman, had acquired the univerial efleem of the whole country by his generous conduct and his. great abilities; and though at that time in a ftate of poverty, and with only four attendants about him, 156 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. him, fuch was his influence that he had only to ftep forward, and iay he wanted money and troops, and he would fhortly have been at the head of an army, that muft at any time have entirely overwhelmed the late government of Morocco. From motives of duty, and perhaps of policy, this however was a Hep he did not wirfi to take, confcious that his father could not long furvive, and that upon his death he was certain of the fucceffion. The emperor, notwith- ftanding, was ft ill unable to fubdue his appre- henfions; and when I was at Morocco fent an army of five thouiand blacks, with an order to violate the fan&uary, and carry off the prince* This order was not obeyed, for the chief could not place fufficient confidence in his troops; and the prince continued quiet in the faftuary till his father's deceale. To evince the policy, as well as the fagacity of Muley Yazid, I muft beg leave to relate an anecdote, which occurred a fhort time previous to that period. The people who have the care of the fan 61 uar y received pofitive orders from the emperor $0 expel the prince by force; which, if they failed in doing, he allured them he would fend and put every man, woman, and child in the neighbourhood of the fan6luary to the fword. The people, though well difpofed to the prince, intimidated by theie orders, related faithfully to him the emperor's intentions, and informed him that, as their lives were at ftake, they expefted him to remove, at the fame time recommending- him to another fanftuary at no great diftance, where he. could equally take refuge. The prince,. who/ A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. IJ7 who is one of the beft horfemen in the country, and who had a horfe of which he had the en tire command, immediately promifed them to depart, and mounted his horfe for the purpofe. But what was their furprife, when they found trie horfe would not ftir from the fpot, notwith- flanding the apparently free ufeof whip andfpur? Upon this the prince exclaimed, " You fee plain- " ly that it is God's v/ill I fhould continue here, cc and therefore no other power fhall ever drive " me out." This had fuch an effect upon the fuperffitious multitude, that they preferred rifking the refentment of the emperor, to the violation of what, in their eftimation, was fo apparently the will or God. With refpect to the other features of the em*- peror's character, his principal vices appear to have refulted from that great corrupter of the human heart, arbitrary power: for he was the moft arbitrary of monarchs, having at his abfolute difpofal the lives and properties of all his fubjects. In fuch circumftances, what man can be trufted, nay, who would truft himfelf ? In fuch circum- ilances, can we wonder, when we obferve the occafional indulgence of intemperate revenge? Among thefe we are to account his treatment of an unfortunate Jew who had imprudently written fomething to his prejudice, and for this flight of fence was quartered alive, cut to pieces > and his flefh afterwards given to the dogs. Upon another occafion, a fimilar difpofition was manifeiled by Sidi Mahomet. A Moor of fome confequencc, and very opulent, gave a grand entertainment on the marriage of one of his fons^ The 158 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. The emperor, \vho happened to be in the neigh bourhood, and who well knew that magnificence was a finking proof of wealth, was determined to be preient at the feftival, in order that he might more fully inform himfelf of the circum- ftances of the Moor. For this purpofe he dii- guifed himfelf in a common drefs, and entered the houfe in the midft of all the jollity, and perhaps the licentioufnefs of the entertainment. The mailer of the ceremonies obferving a perfon of mean ap pearance intrude himfelf into the room fo abrupt ly, ordered him out , and upon the refufal of the flranger, he gave him a kick, and pufhed him by violence out of the houfe. For a jfhort fpace of time after this occurrence the whole affair patted with out notice, and probably had efcaped the memory of moft, and it was a matter of the utrnoft furprize to the mafler of the houfe, to receive an order com manding him immediately to repair to Morocco. Upon being introduced to the emperor, he was afked if he recollected the circumjftances which have juft been related, to which he replied in the affirmative; " Know then," fays the emperor, " I was that Moor whom you treated thus con- " tumelioufly ; and to convince you that I have " not forgot it, that foot and that hand which " infulted me fhall perifh." I have feea this un fortunate viftirn of tyranny walking about the ftreets with one leg and an arm. The emperor was as ready to revenge the ima ginary or the real injuries of his fubjefts. To elucidate this afTertion ; an Englifh and French gentleman were amufmg themfelves by the diver- fion of courfing, in the vicinity of Mogodore, wheu A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 159 when one of their dogs unfortunately attacked the calf of a Moor. This accident foon brought out the villagers, who immediately {hot the dog, and entered into a very ferious quarrel with the Chriltians, which terminated in a general conteft. The women of the village now thought it a pro per occafion for their interference , and among their number was one, who from old age had loft all her teeth except two, and thefe were fo loofe that they could be with difficulty retained \ and another, who had upon a former occafion frac tured her arm, the bone of which had never been reduced or united. In the courfe of the difpute, thefe two women were unintentionally thrown down, and by this accident the old lady loft both her teeth, while the other infifted that the Chrif- tians had been the occafion of frafturing her arm. To be brief, the Chriftians were overpowered by numbers, and were obliged to retire to Mogodore, where they immediately made a complaint to the governor of the infults they had received from the Moors, who in their turn alfo appeared before him with a complaint againft the Chriftians. The whole being referred to the emperor, both parties were ordered up to court, with the view of giving the matter an impartial hearing, and of adminif- tering juftice accordingly!' It is hardly neceffary to intimate, that in this uncivilized country, and with a man of Sidi Mahomet's prejudices, the Moorifh evidence would be certain of a favour able hearing. The circumftances indeed of one woman lofing her teeth, and another having her arm fractured, appeared in the eyes of the empe- r^or fo plaufiblej that upon their being made known., to l6o A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. to him, without hefitation he ordered the Chrif- tians to be put in irons^ and confined pill he Ihonld determine upon the punilhment whih fuch appa rent crimes merited. For this-ptirpofe, the Mufti, or high priefl was defired to refer the matter to the Koran, with a view of punifhing the delin quents according to its dictates. The prieft foon found out a pafTage, where it fpecies an eye for an eye and a tooth for a tooth. The Englifh gen tleman, whom the old lady fixed upon for the perfon who had been the occafion of her misfor tune, was therefore direfted to lofe two of his teeth, which punifhment was immediately put in execution in the prefence of the emperor ; while his French companion, as they could not find out a punifhment in the Koran for breaking an arm, received the baftinado in a manner which dif- graced humanity and the law of nations y the pri- ioners were then fet at liberty. This circumftance brings to my mind how nar rowly I efcaped falling into a fimilar predicament in the courfe of my detention at Morocco. One day, within the walls of the palace, I was grofsly jnfulted by a Moor, at a time when, from the great anxiety I was under, my temper was much difturbed, and which fo far had put me off my guard as to induce me to give the offender a blow on the face. Upon this a Mooriih. foldier, who,, unobferved by myfelf, was fitting behind me in a. corner of the wall, exclaimed in Arabic in a very auftere tone, " Chriftian, how dare you ftrike that Moor ?" A full confcioufnefs of having afted imprudently, and a recollection of the emperor's former treatment of Chriftians under fimilar cir- A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 1 6*1 cumftances, now preffed upon my mind with fuch force, that at. fir it I was at a lofs what part I ihould take to extricate myfelf from this difficul ty. To walk away, would be an acknowledg ment of guilt, and would afford the Moor a greater plea for making a complaint ; I therefore determined upon returning back and expofbalating with the man, by telling him that I had been grofsly infulted, and muft therefore be tinder the neceffity of making immediate application to the governor of the town to have the offender feverely punilhed for attacking one, who, from the nature of his employment, was in the emperor's fervice, and confequently under his particular protection. In reply, the Moor faid, that had I kicked him, horfewhipped him, or puniihed him in any other way but that of flapping his face, he fhould have over-looked it, but a blow on the face was in their law a crime of fo ierious a nature, that he thought it his duty to acquaint the emperor of it, who had hitherto never pardoned any perfon convicted of fo heinous an offence, but had always cut off that hand of the Moor which had offered the in- fult ; what then could a ChrifHan expect from him ? From the knowledge I had already learn ed of the Moorifa character, I frill thought it necelTary to continue in the fame ftrain, by in forming the Moor, that he might act as he thought proper, but that I fhould frill fulfil my refolution, and had no doubt but it would have its proper effect. The man now began to foften, and faid, that as I was in the emperor's fervice, he would for this time look over the offence, but cautioned me to be careful how I acted in future. Upon 1(52 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. Upon confidering every circumftance I thought it moft prudent to let the matter drop here ; and I acknowledge that this affair proved a mfficient lefTon to me to avoid in future entering into fimi- lar contefts with the Moors. Sidi Mahomet was fufficiently confcions of his own power and dignity, and kept every perfon at the moft abject diilance-, no perfon daring to approach or fpeak to him without his permiffion. Senfible alfo of the exceffes into which he might be betrayed by ungoverned palHon, if at any time he found his temper difcompofed, he mdifcrimi- nately ordered every perfon out of his fight. It may eafily be conceived that the monarch had no difficulty in fecuring obedience to this mandate, fmce all were fenfible that to have continued in his prefence would have been highly dangerous, if not fatal. The only perfons who poffeiTed any confider- able influence over the emperor were his women; and it was through that channel that the moft fuccefsful bufmefs was tranfacted with him. Thus far for the vices of arbitrary power. But deceit, hypocrify and falfehood were qualities which could not be immediately afcribed to that fource, unlefs we confider them as the neceflary effects of an education in a defpotic court. As a cloak to actions which he knew muft excite difap- probation and difguft, Sidi Mahomet attempted to perfuade his fubjects that they proceeded from motives of religion and juftice; and to give them a greater fanftion he enrolled himfelf in the frater nity of faints, and paid a ftrict attention to all the fuperftitiops and forms peculiar to his religion. This A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. l6% This condufl anfwered well with the ignorant part of the community, but the more enlightened could not but obferve that he attended more to the ceremonial of his religion than to its principles, which he made no fcruple of violating whenever it fiiited his convenience. What he promifed one day he would refufe the next, fo that no depen- dance was ever placed upon his word. Ad ded to thefe, h? pofTefTed a large portion of that low cunning which is common to perfons whofe rninds and feritiments have not been elevated or refined by literature or fcience. He perhaps, in deed, found this quality not without its ufes in governing fuch a people as the Moors; and no man underflopd their character and difpofition better than he did. He was aware that refpeft is frequently deflroyed by unfeafonable familiari-. ties, and therefore kept at a moil: {lately diftance from his fubje&s, and but feldom appeared among them. By thefe means his confequence was p refer ved, and his conduct, and his talents were, involved in that impenetrable and awful mift that furrounds the feraglios of Eaflern mo narch s. The few rebellions which occurred during his long reign, proved deciflvely that he knew how to govern his fubjefts. Whenever a difpofition for revolt prevailed in any of the provinces, a body of troops was immediately difpatched to plunder the whole of the diicontented province, and to feize the infurgents, who were immediate ly conducted to court, and punifhed according to the magnitude of their refpedlive offences. Some were put to death 3 others were deprived of 164 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, SfC. of their hands and legs; and for lefTer crimes the difcontented parties underwent the baffcinado. This monarch employed perfons in different dif- tricts to watch the motions of his fbbjects, and to inform him of every fymptom of revolt, and thus, by a well-timed interference, he was enabled to crulh rebellion in the bud. In his conduct towards foreign powers, Sicli Mahomet diicovered the fame difregard to truth and juflice, the lame adroitneis and cunning. He readily promifed to grant every demand, provide^ he was to be well paid for the ccnceiTion. But it muft have been valuable prefents indeed which v;ould induce him to perform his promlfe* He protracted negotiations in order that he and his miniilers might be enriched by them'/ but al ways as much as poflible avoided bringing them to a final deternination, by either granting or re- fufing a favour. If foreign powers omitted to pay him the tri bute he demanded, he immediately threatened in the fevered manner to commence rloftilities; yet in this he was never in earneft, for he was more afraid of his enemies than they had reafon to be of him. When he found they were not dif- pofed to contend the matter with him, he increafed his demands accordingly. In order to enhance his confequence, he en deavoured to perfuade his fubjects that he was remarkably flailed in matters of which they were entirely ignorant. To prelerve an appearance of ability, when he was vifited by Europeans, if the flranger was a merchant, the fubject of conver- fation was on manufactures, foreign commerce* &c. A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. l6$ Sec. If he was a military officer, fortifications, attacks, Sec. were the topics ; and if a feafaring perfon, he would then fcratch on a piece of paper a plan of his coafls and harbours. Though he rarely advanced any thing to the purpofe on thefe fubjefts; yet as foreigners who vifited the court generally appeared there with a view of obtaining fome favour, and as it was never cuflomary for any perfon to contradift the emperor, they al ways coincided with his opinions, and pretended at leaft to admire his exteniive abilities. This fully anfwered the intention of the emperor ; it induced his fubjedts to form a good opinion of his underftanding, and he often collected fome real information from the anfwers which his vifitors returned to his queftions. Sidi Mahomet paid more attention to military affairs than to his navy, though if any power re- f ufed to repair a frigate, it was a fufficient induce ment for him to threaten a war. He thought liimfelf perfectly acquainted with the art of for tification, but his knowledge of it extended no farther than a few loofe hints which he had re~ ceived upon the fubjedt from thofe Europeans TV ho had vifited the court. In his court and perfonal appearance, Sidi Ma homet affefted great fimplicity of manners, not allowing even his own fons to appear in his pre- fence except in a plain Moorifh clrefs. They then were obliged to uncover their cap or turban (for a Moor never pulls off either except when going to. bed) and to wear inftead of the Haick the Sulam, which is a cloak made of white or bine woollen cloth, the front parts of which they were 'obliged to throw over thei-r fhouldcrs, and as obliged 1 66 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. Toon as they faw the' emperor, to prof! rate their heads to the ground, and kifs it, exclaiming, " God " fave the king!" He then ordered them to ap proach, and fpeak to him. Though in general of a flately demeanour, he was fometimes known to unbend, and occafion- ally took pleafure in converfmg with his courtiers on various fubjeftsj but they were permitted to advance no opinion of their own, but merely to approve of what he faid. He frequently talked upon the fubjeft of religion, and confidered him- felf as well informed in that particular. He fometimes endeavoured to explain to them dif ferent parts of the Koran, pointing out its beau ties, and imprefling on the minds of his auditors the moft intolerant prejudices againfl Chriflians. The mixture of good* and evil fo incident to all human characters, was alfo to be found in Sidi Mahomet. Notwithftanding what has been remarked of his avarice, his duplicity, and abfurd pretenfions to religion, there are fome circum- jftances which ferve to lefTen our indignation, and thefe it is only conflftent with juflice and candour to ftate. It is generally allowed, that though he mufl necefTarily fnfFer in a comparifon with the princes of free and civilized nations, yet when compared with his defpotic predeceflbrs, his cha- rafter greatly rifes in the fc ale of humanity. He was feldom or never wontonly cruel. He was certainly fometimes too hafty in pronouncing fen- tence on criminals, for which he has been often known to exprefs the ilrongeft fentiments of te- morfe-, and his defire to prevent any ill effe&s from his paiTions has been already remarked. In A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 167 In his adminiltration of juftice he generally afted very impartially, except indeed when his own intereft was immediately concerned, and then every other feeling gave way. It muft, however, be acknowledged, that though him- felf a moft notorious violator of the laws, he fo far reflected them that he never would permit others to follow his example. Though fo ex tremely avaricious, it has been already dated that in fome fevere inftances of public diftrefs, he gene- roufly difpenfed his treafures to adminifter relief to the fufferers; and the number of poor peo ple who were daily fed at his palace, of which I was an eye-witnels, plainly evinced that he was not deftitute of charity. Europeans met with greater encouragement, and the wheels of com merce were lefs clogged, during the reign of Sidi Mahomet than at any preceding period. Thus was this monarch a fmgular compound of liberality and intolerance, of avarice and benevo lence, of cruelty and companion. It is perhaps only a Hate of defpotifin that we behold this con- fufion of character. The legal reftraints of civi lized life, form themfelves into habits ; and the eccentricities and caprices to which circumftances, fituation, the ftate of the health, or perhaps the variations of the climate, difpofe the human mind, are no longer found to exift in European countries, or to exifl in an inferior degree. Happy it is, when any reftraints are impofed upon us, to prevent us from doing evil. Man is a creature not formed for arbitrary power. So limited are his views, fo variable his difpofition, fo violent and A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C, and tyrannical his pafllons, that the wifeft of men would certainly not willi for abfolute authority, and the beft, if entrufted with it, would pro bably abuie it. The conduct of the emperor towards foreign courts has already been noticed. His means of extracting money from them by threatining a war, which perhaps in reality he dreaded, has been like wife flared. It will probably not be unleaibn- able in this place to introduce a few remarks on their conduct towards him. The obfervation that firft and moft naturally prefents itfelf upon this cccafion is that nothing but grofs neglect or inexcufable ignorance could induce the European princes in general to remain in a kind of tributary flate to a prince, who had neither an army nor a fleet which deferved the name, and a a people whole difpofition is Icfs fuited to enterprize than perhaps any other. What had they to fear from him? His whole fleet confifted only of a few fmall frigates andr ow- boats, ill managed and worfe manned, the whole of which might have been deftroyed in one day by two or three well-appointed European frigates. The entrances of thofe ports where he laid up his jfhipping, if we except Tangier and Larache, are, as I before obferved, fo continually choaking up with fand, that in a fhort time they will only admit fifhing-boats, or the very fmallefl craft. The towns are none of them regularly fortified, except Mogodore, and that hardly produces half a dozen men who underftand the leaft of working the guns. And yet this contemptible power gives law* A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C laws to all the coafts of Portugal and Spain, and may be faid in fome meafure to command the en trance of the Mediterranean! It may be faid, he was too trifling a power to notice; if fo, why lavifh immenfe prefents for the purpofe of keeping him in temper? Thofe who imagined they fecured his frienddiip by thefe means were much miftaken; on the contrary, they only added fuel to that flame of avarice which was not to be extinguiftied, if he was one day prefented with a frigate, he afked for two the next; and the more his requefts were indul ged, the more his inordinate defires were in- creafed. It is well known to thofe who have been con- verfant with the Moors, that to fecure their friendihip you muft firft affert your own fuperiori- ty, and then if you make them a trifling prefent, its value is trebled in their eftimation. The fame drfpolition would have been found in Sidi Ma homet, as in the common Moor. So far from courting an alliance, it would rather have been good policy at once to quarrel with him ; the lofs of a few towns and particularly Mogodore, to which he was much attached, from its being raifed under his own aufpices, would foon have reduced him to good humour and fubmiffion. The emperor's title is, " Emperor of Africa; " Emperor of Morocco; king of Fez, Suz, and " Gago; lord of Dara and Guinea; and great Sharif of Mahomet." The principal amnfement of the emperor was latterly obferving his foldiers fire with mufquets at targets, and rewarding thofe who were fuc- cefsf ul with fmall pieces of money. He alfo occa- I fionallj 270 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C> fionally entertained himfelf with falcons; but in general he ipent the greater part of his time with his women. The emperor received foreigners, and tranfafted all public bufmeis, either in his carriage or on horfeback, in iome of the open ipaces' within the palace. Formerly, indeed, on fuch occafions, it was fometimes cuftomary to admit ft rangers in to cne of the rooms; and then he obliged them to conform to the cuftom of the country, by pulling off their ihoes when in his prefence: but ibme fpirited Europeans a few years ago having refuied to pay that homage, he ever afterwards gave them audience in one of his court-yards. The .Spanifh friars at Morocco only were an exception to this rule, for upon their informing him that they never pulled off their fhoes to any power tinder God, he always permitted them to enter his room with them on. Previous to a ftranger, whether an European or Moor, obtaining an audience of his MooniTi Majefty, a prefent was always made to one of his minifters, as an inducement to him to acquaint his fovereign that a ftranger iolicited that honour. The firft prefent, unleis it was fomething very handfome, did not always fucceed; and it was frequently necefTary to apply to two or three mini fters to procure a ipeedy audience, or even to fend in a preicnr to one of the SuTanas, none of whom entertained any very uneafy fenfations about sc~ cey ting the compliment. The latter was indeed ib: mod certain mode of fncceeding. .A '': r htiving fo far Jtccompliftied bis v/ifhes, ;>c.r v a , next liable to be detained a longer r time before the capricious monarch . would A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 17! would fix on a day for receiving him. Even after this he would frequently fend for him in a violent: ' hurry to the palace, and when there keep him {land ing in one of the open courts fevcral hours-, he would then fend an excufe for not admitting him on that day; and this agreeable procefs was in many inftances repeated three or four times. The tar- dinefs, infolence, and irregularity, of the court of Morocco, is indeed beyond conception ; and thofe who have bufmefs there, ought to be poC- iefled of all the philofophy and patience of a Stoic, if they would avoid the deprivation of their fenfes. No perfon whatever, whether Moor or ChriC- tian, was admitted into the prefence of the fove- reign, but when accompanied with a handfome prefent, more or lefs valuable, in proportion to the favour to be requeued. Even the emperor's own fons were not exempted from this cuflom % upon paying their firil vilit after a previous ab- fence. The generofity of the fuitor mult not even flop here; for when the audience is over, the mailer of the ceremonies with his fervants, and the porters of all the gates of the palace, which are rather numerous, have a claim for their per- quifites, and are not to be got rid of till they ob tain fomething. Indeed, as they receive no pay from their royal matter, thefe perquifites were the only means they had of obtaining a fubfift* * For the fatisfaction of thofe who may have occaficn to vilit the court of Morocco upon bufmefs, I have with difficulty obtained an account of the fees which are ufual* ]y paid by European merchants to the emperor's attend ants. Confuls and ambailadors of courle pay more in proportion*, 1 a Expen- 172 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. After having completed the bufmefs at court, the obtaining of the final difpatches was common ly attended with the fame difficulties as the ob taining of an audience. The emperor was not Expences at Court. f A more or lefs valuable prefent, ac- To the emperor -^ cording to the favour which is ex- L peeled. T0 the mafter of the ceremonies for^ public audience, who introduces )The fame in propor- il rangers to the emperor J tion. Ounces. To the man who attends the emperor at the Machoire 20 To who cleans his nmfkets 20 To who has the care of his horfes . 20 To who makes tea for the emperor : - 10 To who has the care of his lance - - 10 To who has the care of his umbrella - -5 To who lias the care of the emperor's faddles jo To the emperor's coachman - 5 To the man who has the care of the emperor's fpurs - 5 To who has the care of the emperor's tents - 10 To who has the care of the emperor's flippers 5 To who gives the emperor water to drink - 5 To who takes care of the emperor's chair - 5 To " who takes the flies ^off the emperor's face 5 To *r> who takes care of the emperor's fword - $ To v. ho takes care of the emperor's watcli - 5 To the porters of the Machoire, for ten gates - 40 To the emperor's gardners - 10 To calling for each audience - - - 10 Total - 20^ An ounce, as I have before tbferved, is a filver coin of nearly the fame value as five pence EngliJh. only A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 173 only naturally very forgetful, but fometimes, from political motives, intentionally fo. He was very well aware that the longer ftrangers were detained at Morocco, the more his minifters would be en riched by them; and as the money came at lad, though by a circuitous courfe, into his own pocket, he ufed frequently to forget that ftrangers were waiting for their difpatches. The minifters, on the other hand, unlefs ftimulated by fubftantial prefents, were generally extremely dilatory in re minding him of them; and there have been many inftances of foreigners being detained at Morocco five or fix weeks, entirely owing to this circum- ftance. With refpeft to the court of Morocco, it lat terly hardly deferved that appellation. When the emperor was young, his faculties clear, and his abilities in their prime, he entrufted to his mi- nifters a confiderable {hare of the public bnfinefs; but within the few lafl years of his life, when his ftrength of body as well as of mind were worn out by hard fervices and old age, either from iufpicion or dotage, he took the reins of govern ment entirely into his own hands. The miniilcrs and fecretaries not daring to notice the miftakes of the fovereign, were obliged to write nut letters and fend orders, which were contradi6led almofl every hour, and which occafioned the utmoft con- fufion. The court of Morocco, indeed, under the moft advantageous circumftances, was always notorious for its irregularity and contradiction ; but a fhort time previous to the emperor's death, the government could fcarcely be faid to exift at all. I 3 As *74 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. As 'an account of the officers employed about the court of the emperor has never been particu larly detailed to the public, a fhort ftatement of them will probably not be uninterefting: I (hall therefore, in as few w, rds as pofiible, point out their refpective employments. The emperor's court confifted of, 1. A prime minifter, named the EfTendi, or friend; who was the refponfible man, and during that period when the government was carried on in a more regular manner, all letters and orders were iigned by him before they were difpatch- ed. 2. A principal fecretary to the treafury, united with the office of EfTendi; who had the difburfe- ment at large of the emperor's payments, with fix Mooriih and feven Jewifh under-fecretaries. 3. A mailer of the horfe, with one hundred and twenty afliftants. 4. A grand chamberlain, a place commonly united with that of prime minifter, with feventeen iifliflants; nine of whom were fons of Spanifh rcnegadbes, three fons of negroes, and the others Moors. 5. A grand falconer, which is an hereditary place, and perhaps the only one in the country, with twenty afliffcants. 6. A keeper of the great feal. 7. Two grand ftewards, \vith eight aiTiftants. 8. Five infpectors general of all the emperor's affairs, the principal of whom was the EfFendi. 9. Three mafters of ceremonies for public au diences, with forty afiiftants. 10. An A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 175' 10. An interpreter general for the German, Dutch, Englilh, French, Spamfh, andLatmlan- ouages; this man was a German renegado & i . A fecretary for the SpaniQiand Italian lan guages, who was a Genoefe. ' 12. Two grand keepers or the jewels and plate. 10 A - other. The emperor's navy confifls of about fifteen fmall frigates, a few xebecks, and betv/ecn twenty and thirty row-gallies. The v/hole is conamanded by one admiral , but as thefe vefTels arc princi pally ufed for the purpofes gf piracy, they feldom imke A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. I Si itmhe in a fleet* The number of feaman in the iervice, are computed at fix thoufand. I have already noted the bad ftate of the ports of Morocco, and the probability of their becoming frill \vorfe , it is therefore evident, that very little is to be apprehended from the emperor as a naval power ; and indeed I' am apt to believe, that though a confiderable part of his dominions is apparently maritime, he will in the courfe of fome years be deftitute both of fleets and harbours. When defcribing the emperor's character, I ob- ferved, that there cannot exift a more abfolute go vernment than that of Morocco; the lives and properties of the fubjefts depending entirely on the will or caprice of the monarch. The forms of order and jnftlce are, however, ftill preferred, though but very little of the fubftance remains. An officer is appointed by the emperor for the government of every province, who, as I have already flated, is named a Baftiaw , he is gener ally a Moor of fome diftinftion, and frequently one of the emperor's fons . This officer, who is appointed or removed at the will of the fovereign, has almof^ an unlimited power throughout the province which he commands-, he can inflict every punifhment but death ; can levy taxes, im- pofe fines, and in fhort can plunder any individual he pleafes ; and indeed, if the reader will not fmile at the abufe of words, the plundering of the public and of individuals may be confidered as a " part of his office. When by every fpecies of ra pacity he has amafled a large property, then h be comes the bufmefs of the emperor to divert this sreafure into his own coffers. Some frivolous plea 132 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C* plea is therefore invented for the imprifoning of the bafhaw, which is immediately put into execu tion. The emperor then feizes upon all his pro perty, and afterwards reinftates him in his govern ment, in order that the fame game may be played over again. So perfeftly acquainted with man kind in every ftate and fituation, was our inimit able Shakefpeare : " Rofencrantz. Take you me for a fpunge, my lord ? " Hamlet. Aye, Sir ; that foaks up the king's " countenance, his rewards, his authorities. But " luch officers do the king befl fervice in the end ; " he keeps them, like an ape, in the corner of his "jaw, firfl: mouthed, to be at lafl {wallowed. " When he needs what you have gleaned, it is but " fqueezing you, and fpunge, you fhali be dry " again." Subordinate to the bafrmw, the emperor ap points governors to each town, named Alcaides, and officers with a fimilar authority in every Dou- har or encampment, who are called Shaiks ; thefe officers have the fame power invefted in them over their feveral diftri&s as the bafhaws have in their provinces. But in other refpefts their fitua tion is worfe, as they arc not only fubjeft to the tyranny of the emperor, but alfo of the bafhaw. The Alcaide, or governor, is invefted with both the military and civil authority in the town where he refides. As a military officer, he com mands a number of foldiers, whom he employs for the public defence and tranquility, and alfo for enforcing the payment of taxes, for the punifhing cf delinquents, and to convey his orders and mei- fages, A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. I 83 fages to court, or into the country. As a civil officer, he has the entire cognizance of all criminal matters, for which he di cretionally inflidts any punifhment fhort of death. If we only refleft on the dangerous extent of this almoft unlimited power, it is eafy to anticipate the abufes of it in a country where fo little atten tion is paid to juftice or honour. For the mofl trifling offences the Alcaide condemns the delin quent not only to be baftinadoed very feverely, arid imprifoned, but alfo to pay him a fum of money, or prefent him with fome other article equal in value, which probably the prifoner has been half his life in acquiring. It frequently happens, indeed, that falfe accufations are invented purpofely againft individuals to plunder them of their property. This is not the only inconvenience arifmg from an abufe of power ; for let a perlbn commit the moft notorious crime, if he can carry up a prefent to the governor of greater value than what was prefented by his accufer, he is not only forgiven, but if he has the lead: ingenuity, he will find very little difficulty in throwing the whole of the crime upon his antagonifL Indeed, in this country, juftice, or rather judgment, is mofl eaiily procured by purchafing it. Under the Alcaide isMn officer named Ell-hao- kum, or deputy governor, whofo office bears fome analogy to our principal bailiff or conftable. Befides thefe officers, there is ia every town a Cadi, who is both a civil judge and the chief priefi: ; for it is well known that the civil and re ligious inflitutions are united in the Koran. When any dilpute happens between individuals, refpeft- 184 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &c. ing matters of right or property, debts, infults, &c. the perfon who fuppofes him felf injured may apply for redrefs to the Cadi, who is to determine the matter agreeably to the principles of the Koran. In the abfence of the Cadi, any of the Talbs, who are common priefts, are equally authorifed to a6l for him. If the parties chufe to employ lawyers, the pleadings muft be carried on in writing, otherwife they plead orally their own caufes. Upon thefe occafions the Cadi or Taibs cannot openly receive any payment, but it is well Icnown that they are too frequently influenced by private prefents. The chief of the Cadis is the Mufti, who is al- fo the fupreme head of the church. When any party in a fuit conceives that he has reafon to complain of the jnrifdiftion of thefe of ficers, he has a right to appeal to the emperor, who gives public audiences for the purpofe of admi- niflering juftice. This cuftom would be a. great alleviation to the evils of defpotiim, were the em peror always to adminifter juftice impartially; but valuable prefents have fometimes too powerful an influence even over the fovereign himfdf. On this account, as well as on that of the great dif- tance of many of the provinces from the ieat of government, the people feldom embrace this laft refource in applying for juftice. The mode of puniihing criminals in this coun try depends entirely upon the will of the fovereign. Trifling offences are ufually punifhed by impriion- ment and the baftinado, which is inflicting a certain number of {tripes on the back and legs by leather ilraps, and which is fometimes executes! with great A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 185 I great feverity. For crimes of a more ferious na ture, in fome cafes the hands are cut off, parti*- cularly for Healing, in others a leg and a hand. When I was at Morocco four men who had com mitted murder had both their hands and legs cut off, and were afterwards ihot. Other criminals are run-through with fwords, knocked down with clubs, or are beheaded. Another mode of punlfhment is toiling, v/hich is ib contrived that the viclim falls immediately upon his head. There were feveral perfons about Sidi Mahomet, who from pradice had acquired an habit of throwing perfons up, ib as at pleafure either to break the head, diflocate the neck, frafture an arm, leg, or both, or to let them fall without re ceiving any material injury. When I was at Mo rocco a man received the latter punifhment in the morning, and in the afternoon the emperor made him a handfome prefent as a recompence for what he had fufFered. To fum up all in a few words, there is no mode of cruelty known which has not been pra&ifed at Morocco. I am well aware that in the prefent uncivilized ftate of the people, fevere and exem plary puniihments may be necefTary to keep them in any degree of fubjeftion , but it mnft be at leaft allowed that fuch feverities fhould never be in- fiifted but when there is a full proof of guilt. The contrary of this I am afraid is too often the cafe at Morocco. The accufed is feldorn permitted to make his defence, but is fent out of the world very frequently without knowing for what he fuffers. Thcfc 1 86 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. Thefe punifhments were always inflifted in the prefence of the emperor. The former monarch s of this country were their own executioners, and Sidi Mahomet acfted in the fame capacity when prince ; but upon his acceffion to the throne he refigned this refpeftable office to his Negro fol- diers. I never was prefent at any of thefe exe cutions, but was informed that legs and arms are taken off by a common knife and faw, and that the ftump is afterwards dipped in boiling pitch, -which is the only mode of flopping the hemor rhage with which they are acquinted. To evince in what a cool light all thefe things are confidered by the Moors, one of the emperor's fons had undertaken to put a memorial from me into his father's hands, praying to be fent home. Upon my calling upon him to afk if he had com plied with my requeft, he informed me that when he laft faw his father an opportunity had not offered, as he was then very bttfy in putting fome ferfons to death. CHAP. A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 187 CHAP. X. Arrival o/'MuLEY ABSULEM at MOROCCO Ins pom pous Entry. Adventures of foms Englijb Captives. AccQuntof wild Arabs. Interview with the Prince. Flattering Expectations dif appointed. Unworthy con* duft of the Prince -his departure for M-KCCA* Dif- agreeable Embarrnj]mtnt$*-~*EffQrt$ of tks Author to procure Leave to return. ABOUT'ten days after my interview with the emperor, Muley Abfulem arrived fromTaru- dant, in his way to Mecca. As this prince was (b diftinguifhed a favourite with the emperor, his public entrance into Morocco was conducted in a much more magnificent ftile than any other part }f the royal family would perhaps have ventured 4pon. As foon as intelligence arrived that the ^rince was approaching the city, two of his bro- hers, Muley Slemma and Muley Oafline, who lappened to be at Morocco at the time, the Bafhaw, md all the principal perfons in the city, received )rders to proceed on horfeback to meet him, which hey did in great form, and found him encamped it the diftance of about four rniks. As foon as ic had dined, the cavalcade commenced, confiding irft, of all the prince's Alcaides, about twelve in lumber, in front, flanked on each fide by one landard-bearer, who carried each a red flag, and >ne lance-bearer, carrying a lanee of an uncom- non length. Behind them was Muley Abfulem n the centre; on the right of him Muley Slemma, ,nd on the left Muley Ouffine. The next in order was I 88 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. was the Bafhaw, with the principal perfons of thfe city; and the rear was brought up by a troop of one hundred cavalry, all abreaft, partly Negroes and partly Moors, who had the butt end of their rnufltets refting on their faddles, with the muzzles pointed perpendicularly. In this manner the prince advanced till he approached the wails of the town, where he received orders to halt till the emperor came to him; an honour which had never been paid by Sidi Mahomet to any perfon before. The emperor fhortly after advanced on horfeback, with his fuite, confining of about fifty foldiers. Upon his approach Muley Abfulem difmounted and kifTed the earth; upon which the emperor commanded him to rife, and approach dole to his perfon. He then bleffed him, laying his hand on the prince's head, and afterwards embraced him with all the affection of a fond father. Having made many enquiries concerning his foil's health, the emperor took his leave, and each retired to their refpeftive places of refidence. As foon as the prince had got within the walls of his garden, his troops fired three vollies of muf- quetry in an irregular manner, as is cuftomary on thefe occafions, and there the ceremony con cluded. It may eafily be imagined, that I loft no time in waiting on his highnefs, and I received from him as flattering a reception as I could poflibly wifh. The prince informed me that he had continued recovering his fight gradually, and that he found himfelf in every other refpecl: in good health. I took this opportunity of reprefenting to him how difagreeably I was fituated with refpeft to the emperor A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. I 89 emperor, and trufled that he would now clear up every doubt that might have arifen on my account; and with this requeft he promifed to comply. On paying my fecond vifit, the prince informed me that he had obtained the emperor's permiffion to have again recourfe to his medi cines, and that he was certain he fhould have in fluence fufficient with his father to perfuade him to give me up the Englifli captives, as a compli ment for my iervices. The prince had brought along with him to Mo rocco the Englifh captain, the only Englifhman that had been left in llavery, the black having died Ibme time before. My reader will eafily con ceive the pleafure I felt at feeing my unfortunate countryman, who had been left alone in the hands of favages, now out of immediate flavery, and with the chearful profpeft, according to the pro- mifes of the prince, of being immediately fent home to his friends and country. My fenfations indeed on the occafion may be much more eafily felt than defcribed. But if this circumftance had fuch an effect upon me, what muft it have had upon this unfortunate officer, who for forne months paft had been feparated from his people, one of whom was a near relation, and without knowing whether they were dead or alive; who with the evils of flavery had experienced that of a fevere fever, without having any perfon to con* fole him, or afford him that affiftance which is fo neceifary upon fuch occafions? To be redeemed under fuch circumflances from his inhofpitable fituation, to recover from his illnefs, and to meet with all his companions at Morocco, well taken care A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. care of by the emperor, was a change which he had given up all expectation of ever behold ing. The captain was a well-informed young man, and an agreeable companion. He had been brought up, as I before intimated, to the profeflion of medicine and furgery, in both of which he had received a good education. His firfl effay in the world was as furgeon to a Guinea-man; after having made feveral voyages in this capacity, how ever, finding it a difadvantageous employment, he obtained the command of a fmall vefTel in the fame trade, and this was his firft voyage as com mander. Contrary to his inclination he was ordered by his owners to fail between the canaries and the coaft of Africa, which is at all times confidered as a dangerous navigation. As he approached towards the fpot where his misfortune happened, which is inhabited by wild Arabs, he got into a ftrong current, which drives directly towards the fhore, and a perfect calm fucceeding, the veflcl unavoidably ran aground. The crew immediately took to their boat, carried off all the money on board, which was about five hundred dollars, with a good fhare of provifions and water, and got fafe to fhore. The part of the country were they were wreck ed con fi fled of deep and heavy fands. As upon their firft landing they faw nothing to molcft them, it was their intention to proceed on foot, along the coaft to the northward, till they could reach Santa Cruz or Mogodore, where they could make their fituation known. For this purpoie they A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. Ipl they fet off with their money, provifions and water, and met with no difturbance till the end of two days. They then obferved a party of wild Arabs, armed with large clubs and knives, and rapidly advancing towards them: their firfl objeft was to bury their money in the fands. Over powered by numbers, they faw no chance of making a fuccefsful defence, and therefore every moment expe6r.ed inftantaneous death. The fa- vages, however, had a different objedl in view. They knew very well that what property the un fortunate people had about them was fufficiently fecnre, without being under the neceffity of de troying their lives in order to obtain it, and they were not ignorant of the value of their perfons when offered for fale; their ultimate obj eft there fore was, to bring them to market as flaves. As each of their conquerors conceived him- felf equally interefted in the capture, they were fome time before they could agree among them- felves how they fhould difpofe of their prifoners, in the mean time ibme of the people were knocked down, others had their pockets cut out, and the buttons torn from off their coats. They were at laft feized on by different peribns, and carried away to different places of refidence. As I had an oportunity of feeing fome of theie favages at Morocco, and as they appeared to be in fome refpefts different from thofe Arabs whom I had met with in my travels, I (hall beg leave to defcribe them. Contrary to the cuftom of the Moors, they wear the hair long, which is a dark black, and flarting from their heads like porcu pine's quills. Their complexions are off a very 2 dark , Ip 2 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. dark brown, their nofes very pointed, their eyes . dark and flaring, their beards long, and their ; features altogether fuggeft the idea of lunacy or raving madnefs. In their perfons they are very flrong and mufcular-, and many of them go quite naked j others wear only a fmall garment round their waifts. But to return to my narrative. The Englifh failors were put into miferable huts or tents, where for feveral days they could procure no fuftenance, but juniper-berries, brakifh water, and now and then a fmall quantity of milk. From thefe people they were foon difpofed of to others, who put them into the immediate em ployments of flavery, thefe employments were the carrying of water in {kins 9 and performing various other kinds of drudgery, which was at all times accompanied with flripes. After continuing in this ftate between two and three months, they contrived to get a letter con veyed to the Englifh vice conful at Mogodore, expreflive of their fituation, who forwarded it to the conful general at Tangier, and at the fame time wrote to Muley Abfulem upon the fubjecl. This prince, who commanded the province ad joining to that where Captain Irving and his people were -detained, at the expiration of eight months from the time this accident happened, obtained the emperor's permiffion to redeem them out of flavery, with orders to fend them up to Moroc co, where his Moorifh majefty thought proper to keep them, till they were exprefsly fent for by our fovereign j or, in other words, till he received an haudfome prefent. About A TOUR. TO MOROCCO, &C. 193 About four days after the prince's arrival, the flattering affurances which he had at firft given me refpecling theie unfortunate perfons were ap* parently confirmed, by his informing me, that he had fucceeded to his wiihes with the emperor, in what he had promifed relative to the English captives; that in two or three days he was to fee off for Fez, in his way to Mecca, and that he was to take us all with him as far as Sallee, whence a party was to be difpatched to conduct us to Tangier. Such agreeable intelligence, and from fuch authority, afforded me the moft pleafing hopes that my journey would yet end to my fatisfa<5tion. I eagerly flew to the captain to acquaint him with it; but he feemed too much accuflomed to di- appointments, to entertain any very fangaine ex pectations from my information. I think, how ever, his fpirits .appeared fbmewhat revived upon the occafion. The day before the prince's departure I was de- fired to Hate the number cf mules which would be necedary to convey my baggage 5 at the fame time I was told, that in two days we were all tD fet off. To my very great far prize, however, on the faire evening, I was for the firfl time re- fufed permiflion to fee the prince; an excufe being made that he was then buiy, and therefore wifhed me to call in the morning. At the fame time I -faw every preparation making for the journey, and was pofitively told that the prince was to de part from Morocco the very next day. As I could not help feeling uneafy and alarmed at this circumftance, I repaired early in themorn- K ino* A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. ing to the prince's habitation, to know the truth of what I had heard the day before; little enquiry, however, was neceffary, fince the firfl objedt that prefented itfelf was the baggage mules ready loaded; and, in addition to this circumftance, I was informed, that the prince was to let off in an hour's time. It was in vain that I fent in repeated mefTages to the prince, requeuing that he would permit me to fee him. The only anfwer I could obtain was, that he was then engaged, and that I mufl wait a little. Wearied out at length by the urgency of my felicitations, a particular friend of his highnefs came out and told me, that the prince had fent me ten hard dollars, with order to leave the garden immediately, as no perfon but the em* peror could fend me home. Enraged at this unworthy treatment, I defired the Moor to acquaint the prince, that it was not money I wanted; I wifhed him only to fulfil his engagement, and that till I had fome profpeft of that being accompli {bed, I would not ftir from the garden, unlefs compelled by force. The re- fult of this meflage was, that the fame man re* turned with two dollars more, and faid that the prince had done all he could for me. If I chofe to go to one of the emperois fecretaries, whole name he mentioned, he would give me the em peror's letter of difpatch, and then I might pro ceed home in what manner I pleafed, but that the prince had no further bufmefs with me. Find ing that meflages were fmitlels, I determined to watch the oportunity of the prince's coming out of his houfe, and as ibon as he had mounted his horfe A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. Ip5 horfe, I placed myfelf direftly before him. In this lafl refource, however, I found myfelf equally unfuccefsful as before, and experienced the laft extreme of rudenefs and ingratitude; for before my interpreter could pronounce a fingle fentence, the prince puttied on, and rode nattily by me, leaving me in as difagreeable a iltuation as can well be conceived. To whatever point I direfted my view, there appeared nothing comfortable in the profpeft. I had come purpolely into the country to attend the prince, with his mofl pofitive aflurances that I fnould be lent back again, when he had no further occafion for my fervices. How great then muft be my mortification to find myfelf in a worfe fitua- tion than the crane in the fable? fmceinftead of obtaining from him this negative favour, in return for all the fatigues and inconveniences which I had experienced on his account, I found mylelt deferted entirely, and left in the charge of a haugh ty and perfidious emperor! Doubt after doubt took pofTefTion of my mind; and this, joined with the refledion of having fo completely difappointed the hopes of the unfortunate feamen, as well as the favourable accounts I had written to the con- ful on the prince's recovery, preffed fo forcibly on my feelings, that for the fpace of two or three hours I was in a ftate little better than that of iu- fanity. As foon as I found myfelf in fome degree re covered, I went to the perfon to whom I was di- refted for my letter of difpatch, and was inform ed that he had fet off early that morning for Fez; and had the further fatisfacKon of difcovering that the prince had availed himfelf of this excufe, K 2 ia Ip'5 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. in order to avoid my importunity. As no ftran- ger who is fent for by the emperor can ftir from the court till he gets his difpatches, I now con- fidered myfelf in every refpecl: a prifoner. Difap- pointed in every hope of emancipation, I returned home, and immediately difpatched expreifes to the confuls at Tangier and Mogodore, informing them of my fituation, and earneflly requeuing their immediate interference. In thejnean time 1 omit ted no other means which occurred to procure my difpatches, but all without fuccefs, The molt probable ftep which I could devife, or at lead which I could carry into effect, was to convey to the emperor's hands the following memorial, by means of one of his fons. To his Imperial Majeily of Morocco. Moil: augufl fovereign, With all the refpec't and fubmifnon due to your rnajefry's exalted Uation, I take the liberty of in forming your majefty, that 1 had particular orders from the governor of Gibraltar, under whole command I have the honour to ferve, to return im mediately to my duty, upon my Services being no longer necefiary to your majefly's fon, the prince Muiey Abfulerii. That now being the cafe, I on ly wrfit to kno\v whether I am to have the honour of conveying your majeiiy's commands to Tangier, cither for your majelty's ion Muley Haiem, or for the Britifh conful-general. I have the honour to be, mofl rcfpeclfully, Your, majefly's rnofl humble and devoted fervanr, W. Lempriere. I got A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. I got the above letter tranflated into Arabic, worded in the uiual compliments of the country, and having incloied it in a filk handkerchief, the mode in which all letters are prefented to royal perfonages in Barbary, and carried to Muley Omar, whom I had feen at Tarudant, with a pre- fent of Irifh linen, in value about fix. dollars, wrapped up alfo in a filk handkerchief ; and re- quelled him to deliver it into his father's hands the firlt opportunity. The prince firfl received the prefent, and then told me, that as we were old friends, I needed not have troubled myfeif with bringing one ; but that I might be a flu red he would fettle the bufinefs to my entire fatisfaftioii in a very ihort time. The refult of this applica tion was, a promife from the emperor of being fent home immediately 5 but this was attended with the fame infincerity which I had ufually ex perienced. My next effort was, by making prefents to the principal minifters to bribe them over to my in- tereft, as my delay might probably arife as much from the emperors want of memory as from any other caufe-, for his faculties were then fb much impaired, that he was not able to recolleft circum- ftances from one hour to another. I was in hopes that by means of his miniilers he would be con tinually reminded of me j but, either be caufe my prefents were not fumciently large, or becaufe thefe rapacious minifters were in hopes I would repeat them, I effected nothing by this plan. K 3 C H A R 19-8 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. CHAP. XL Departure of Captain IRVING. Infolence of the Populace to Chrlfllans. Manners and Character of the Moors* Education of the Princes. Per fans and Drefs of the Moors. Houfes and Furniture. Ceremonies. Cou riers. Anecdotes ilhijlrati be furprifed if he finds moft of the vices of fa- vage nations grafted upon thofe of luxury and indolence ; if he obferves fuperfiiltion, avarice,, and luft the leading features of charadler, with their natural concomitants, deceit and jealoufy ; he is not to be furprized if he finds but little of the amiable attachments and propenfities, little of friendihip or focial union with each other, fmce the nature of the government, and the habits of his private life, are calculated to infpire each maa with a diilrufl and iufpicion of his neighbour. I will not after t, however, that this character will univerfally apply. However the cnftoms and government of a nation may militate againft virtue and excellence, there are always fplendid excep tions to the prevalent vices of every fociety. There are certainly among the Moors many whole pri vate virtues would do honour to any civilized na tion ; but I am forry to add, that thofe characters are not numerous. Groaning under the fevered oppreffions of dcfpotiim, tHey lofe all fpirit for induftry and improvements, and fufFer indolence and ignorance to reign without controul. Sen- fible of the uncertainty of enjoying the fruits of labour and ingenuity, the great majority of the people remain content with the bare neceflaries- of life, or when in power endeavour to enrich themfelves by the fame means which had before kept them in a Hate of poverty.. Arts:. 202 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, Sec. Arts and fciences feem to be almoft unknown here, or, if 'at all cultivated it is only by the Jews, who indeed are the only induftrious and ingenious people in the country. The Moors in general may be confidered as exiting in the paftoral flate, following only a few mechanical trades and leav ing every thing that requires invention to the Jews, who have likewife the principal manage ment of their commercial and pecuniary matters ; and even thofe few of the Moors who are mer chants are obliged to have Jew agents for the purpofe of tranfa6ring their bufinefs. Fearful of having it difcovered that they are rich, fooner than part with money, which, under fuch circumltances, is of little or no ufe to them, they deprive themf elves of the luxuries and even comforts of life ; they hoard up and conceal their " treafures, though feldom fo artfully but they are . at length detefted, and confequently plundered by the bafhaw, the prince, or the emperor. To conceal more effectually their riches, they are obliged to have recourfe to every form of diilirnu- lation and deceit; and being exerdfed in thefe qualities during the early part of life, at a more advanced period they become an eftablilhed part of their character. The Moors are naturally of a grave and penfive difpofition, fervid in profeffions of friendship, but very infmcere in their attachments. They have no curioflty, no ambition of knowledge ; an indolent habit, united to the want of mental culti vation, renders them perhaps even more callous than other unenlightened people to every delicate fenfatioa, and they require more than ordinary excite- A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 203 excitement to render them fenfible of pleafure or of pain. It is to this tircumftance, and to their religion, which teaches them to impute every thing to a blind predeftination, that we may attri bute that pafiive obedience which the Moors diC- cover under all their misfortunes and oppreffions. This langour of fentiment is, however, unaccom panied with the fmalleft fpark of courage or for titude. When in adverfity they manifefl the moft abjeft fubmiilion to their fuperiors, and in prof- perity their tyranny and pride is irifupportable. They frequently fmile.but are feldom heard to laugh loud. The moft infallible mark of internal tran quillity and enjoyment is when they amufe them- felves with ftroking or playing with their beard. When roufed by refentment, their difputes rarely proceed farther than violently to abufe each other in the moft opprobrious language. They never fight or box with their fills, like our peafantry, but when a quarrel proceeds to great extremities, they collar each other, and fometunes terminate a difpute by afTafli nation. It has been fomewhere remarked, that whatever debafes the human fpirit, corrupts and at the fame time depraves the heart. That abjeftnefs of d*fpofition, which a ftate of flavery induces, eradicates every noble, every generous fentiment. The Moors are di(hnourable and unfair in all their dealings ; nor are the greateft among them exempt from propenfities which would difgrace the meaneil of the civilized inhabitants of Europe. .When the emperor's army was at Tangier, one of the coniuls invited the Moorifh general and his particular friend to tea. Soon after their depar ture 204 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. ture the confiil milled one of his tea-fpoons, and knowing the diipofitions of the Moors, fent to the general for it ; who immediately returned it, and fimply apologized, by faying he had put it into his pocket by miftake. When we treat of national genius and charac ter, it were to be wifhed that language fupplied us with fome term which might ferve to indicate that habit and cuftom is the great framer of the characters of nations. Of this truth there can be no flronger evidence than Morocco affords. Torpid and infeafible as I have reprefented the Moors in general to be, this character is by no means appli cable to diem in early life. In the Hate of child hood they pofTefs an uncommon fhare of vivacity rnd acutenefs, but they fink gradually into indo lence and ftnpidity as they advance in life. It is evident, therefore, that to the want of education only this circumftaace is to be attributed. While at ichool they are fcarcely lefs remarkable for at tention than ability ; and as they commit their lei- fons to memory, no imall fhare of application is required. This courle is, however, extremely limited, and continues for a very fhort period \ it confifls at moft of being inflructed in certain parts of the Koran, and perhaps learning to write. After this all attention to learning ceafes ; 'and though their parents never indulge them, .yet they are rarely chadifed, and are left to themfelves in general almoft in a flate of nature. A late eloquent writer has remarked, that " the " antients did not like Archimedes, want a fpot *< on which to fix their engines, but they .wanted ** an. engine, to move the moral world. The prds, A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. " is that engine." and to the want of it may fairly be attributed the ignorance, the ftupidity, the flavery of the African nations. The art of printing is entirely prohibited and unknown in Barbary ; and, from fome inexplicable caufe, moft of the manufcripts which were poflefled by their Saracen anceftors are loft to the prefent genera tion of Moors. A few indeed are flill in being, which treat of aftronomy, aftrology, and phyfic ; but thofe on aftrology only are are at prefent itudied. If any thing could efFeft an important and be neficial change in thefe people, it would be the example of fome great and magnanimous mo narch, who by fome fmgular revolution might be raifed to the throne of Morocco. In fo defpotic a government, where religion confpires with ha bit in teaching the fubjeft to confider his prince as fomething more than man, much more might be effected by example, than in a free country ; where the fovereign is merely confidered as an in dividual placed on the throne for the public good, fubjeft to all the imperfeftions and frailties inci dent to human nature, and where the mind, by being allowed a free fcope for reflection, difdains all authority but that of reafon and truth. The plan adopted, however, for the education of the princes of Morocco, fo far from tending to the improvement of their minds, or the en largement of their ideas, ferves on the contrary, too frequently to render them ftill more remark able for vice and brutality than even the worft of their fubjecls. As foon as they become of an age that readers it imprudent to truft them any longer within 206 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C- within the walls of the harem, they are taken out, and put under the care of one of their father's confidential Negroes, with whom they foon form a clofe intimacy, from whom they imbibe all the bad qualities which are infeparable from a flate of llavery, and by whom they are alfo initiated in vices of every kind, in debauchery, cruelty, and oppreffion. Their education extends no fur ther than to read and write ^ and their knowledge of the world is confined to what they can ob- ferve and learn in the courfe of a pilgrimage to Mecca. They are totally unacquainted with the political hiftory of every foreign power; and their knowledge of their own government is confined principally to its worfl parts. To acquaint them- lelves with the refources of the country, and the improvements which from its fituation it would ad mit of, or to direft any part of their attention to thofe regulations in their government which might tend to the advantage and eale of their fubjefts, or to their own real aggrandizement, is as much out of the line of their education, as the Princi- pia of Newton. Thus they afcend the throne with all the prejudices of ignorance, with all the vices of barbarifm, with a pride that teaches them to look upon their fellow creatures as inferior be ings, and without any fentiments of tendernefs, companion, or true policy, to reftrain the arm of defpotifm from its moft cruel and fatal excejflfes. Thus ill-qualified in general are the fovereigns of Morocco for efifefting a reformation in the man ners and character of their people. The ignorance of the Moors is, however, no bar to their loquacity. They {peak very loud, and A TOU& TO MOROCCO, &C. and generally two or three at a time, as they are not very exaft in waiting for a reply. Ufelefs as the forms of politenefs may appear in the eye of the philofopher, there are fome of them which probably conduce in no trifling degree to even our intelleftual excellence and improvement. Perfonal cleanlinefs has been pointed out by modern philofophers as one of thofe circum- flances which ferve to mark and determine the civilization of a people. It was in vain that Ma homet enjoined the frequency of ablution as a re ligious duty to the Moors. Their drefs, which fhould be white, is but feldom wafhed, and their whole appearance evinces that they perform this branch of their religious ceremonies in but a flovealy manner. With this degree of negligence as to their peribns, we may be juftly furpriled to find united a mod icrupulous nicety in their habi tations and apartments. They enter their cham bers barefooted, and cannot bear the flightefl de gree of contamination near the place where they are feated. This delicacy again is much confined to the infides of their houfes. The flreets receive the whole of their rubbilh and filth, and by theie means the ground is fo raifed in moft parts of the city of Morocco, that the new buildings always ftand confiderably higher than the old. The perfons of the Moorifh men are fo dit- guifed by their drefs, that it is impoffible to ac quire any good idea of their form or proportion, In height they are commonly above the middle frze, and they are rather meagre than fat. Their complexions in general are fallow in the Northern parts of the empire, but are darker ia proportion to 208 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. to their fituation towards the South. Their fea tures have univerfally a great iamenefs. Their eyes are black and full, they have an aquiline nofe, and in general a good fet of teeth. The drefs of the men * confifts of a fhort linen fhirt, with large and loofe ileeves hanging half way down to the ground. A pair of loofe linen drawers, reaching almoft to the ankle ; over which they wear another loofe pair, made of woollen cloth. Over the^fhirt they wear two or three woollen cloth waiflcoats of different co lours, and of European manufacture j thefe gar ments are made full as loofe as our great coats; they are connefted before .by very finall buttons, and are fattened tight round the waift by a fiik belt. Over thefe waiftcoats they throw a velvet cord, which croiTes the right fhoulder, and fuf- pends on the left fide a curved dagger or knife, iheathed in a brafs cafe. This is the drefs the Moors wear when in their houfes ; but when they go abroad they cover it with the haick, a part of drefs which has been already noticed. It is thrown over the whole of their other clothing in a care- lefs but eafy manner, fomething firnilar to the Scotch plaid. When the weather is wet or cold, inftead of the haick, the Moors fubftitute the fulam ; which is a large hooded cloak, reaching to the heels, all of one piece,, and made of blue or white woollen cloth of European manufacture, without feams, cloie before, and ornamented with * The drefs, and general remarks on the Moorifh wo men will be introduced hereafter, when we fpeak of th-e emperor's harem. A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 209 lk fringes at the extremities, on the bread, and the ends of the hood, terminating with a filk tat fel. The latter part of the drefs is fixed on the head by means of a ftrong cord of camel's hair; and among the common people it often iiipplies the place of a cap or turban. Thofe Moors who have performed a pilgrimage to Mecca are entitled to wear a turban, and are named El-hatch. They are always treated with -peculiar refpe and in fome the apartments are hung with the fkins of lions or tigers, or adorned with a difplay of mut kets and fabres. In the houfes of thofe who live in the very firft flyle, an European mahogany bed- ftead, with one or two mattrrfTes, covered with fine white linen, is fometimes placed at each end of the room. Thefe, however, are only conft- dered as ornaments, as the Moors always fleep on a matrefs, or a mat placed upon the floor and covered only with their haick, or perhaps a quilt. As the law of Mahomet ftriftly profcribes the life of pictures of every defcription, this delightful fpecies of ornament finds no place in the houfes of the Moors. I was however, acquainted with a Moor A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. a Moor at Morocco, \vho ufed to exhibit a raree- fhow to his friends and acquaintance, all of whom appeared to exprefs infinite furprize and admiration at his exhibition. This, indeed, was not the only inftance in which he was guilty of violating th'e Mahometan law. He icrupled not to drink very freely his bottle of port or claret, which, as it was manufactured by Chriftians, was from that circumflance an aggravated offence. He employed me to procure for him from Mogodore three dozen of claret, which appeared to adminiiler to him infinite comfort and iatisfac~tion. This af fection indeed for the productions of Europe made him perhaps more than ufually favourable to its natives. However this maybe, he was the only man who fhewed me much attention during my refidence at Morocco. He repeatedly took me to his houfe, and made me little prefents of various kinds, which at that place proved very accept able. When a Moor receives his guefts he never rifes from his feat, but fliakes hands, enquires after their health, and defires them to fit down, either on a carpet or a cufhion placed on the floor for that purpofe. Whatever be the time of day, tea is then brought in on a tea-board with fhort feet. This is the higheft compliment that can be offered by a Moor; for tea is a very expenfive and fcarce article in Barbary, and is only drank by the rich and luxurious. Their manner of pre paring it is by putting fome green tea, a fmall quantity of tanfey, the fame portion of mint, and a large portion of fugar (for the Moors drink their tea very fweet) into the tea-pot at the fame time, A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. time, and filling it up with boiling water. When thefe articles are infufed a proper time, the fluid is then poured into remarkably frnall cups of the belt India china, the fmaller the more genteel, without any milk, and, accompanied with fome cakes or fweatmeats, it is handed round to the company. From the great efteem in which this beverage is held by the Moors, it is generally drank by very fmall and flow fips, that is flavour may be the longer enjoyed; and as they ufually drink a con-~ fiderable quantity whenever it is introduced, this entertainment is feldom finifhed in lefs time than two hours. The other luxuries of the Moors are fnufT, of which they are uncommonly fond, and fmoaking tobacco, for which the greater part ufe wooden pipes about four feet in length, with an earthen bowl; but the princes or emperor generally have the bowls made of folid gold. Inftead of the in dulgence of opium, which, from the heavy duty Junpofed upon that article by the emperor, is too expenfiveto be ufed by the Moors, they fubftitute the Achicha, a fpecies of ax. This they powder and infufe in water in fmall quantities. The Moors afTert, that it produces agreeable ideas, but own that when it is taken to excefs it moil powerfully intoxicates._ In order to produce this effect, they like wife mix with their tobacco an herb, named in this country Khaf, which by fmoak- ing, occafions ail the inebriating effects of the Achicha. The ufe of fpirits as well as wine is jlriftly forbidden by the Koran; there are, how ever, very few among the Moors who do not joyfully 714 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. joyfully embrace every private opportunity of drinking both to excels. With refpedl to the hours for eating, the peo ple of this country are remarkably regular. Very foon after day-break they take their breakfaft, which is generally a compofition of flour and water boiled thin, together with an herb which gives it a yellow tinge. The male part of the family eat in one apartment and the female in another. The 'children are not permitted to eat with their parents, but take their meals afterwards with the fervants ; indeed in moft other refpefts they are treated ex- aftly as fervants or (laves by their parents. The mefs is put into an earthen bowl, and brought in xipon a round wooden tray. It is placed in the centre of the guefts, who fit crofs-legged either on a mat or on the floor, and who form a circle for the purpofe. Having previoufly wafhed them- felves, a ceremony always performed before and after meals, each perfon with his fpoon attacks vigoroufly the bowl, while they diverfify the en tertainment by eating with it fruit or bread. At twelve o'clock they dine, performing the fame ceremonies as at brekkfaft. For dinner, from the emperor down to the peafant, their difh is univer- fally Cufcofoo, the mode of preparing which has been already defcribed. I believe I have intimated more than once that neither chairs, tables, knives or forks, are made ufe of in this country. The difh is therefore brought in upon a round tray and placed on the floor, round which the family fit as at breakfaft, and with their fingers commit a violent af fault on its contents; they are at the fame A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. fame time, however, attended by a flave or do- meftic, who prefents them with water and a towel occafionally to wafli their hands. From the want of the fnnple and convenient invention of knives and forks, it is not uncommon in this country to three ^pr four people pulling to pieces the fame piece" of meat, and afterwards with their fingers f tirring up the pafte or Cufcofoo, of which the of ten take a whole handful at once into their mouth. Their manner of eating indeed was to me fo di- gufting, that though Cufcofoo is in reality a very good difh, yet it required fome time to get rid of my prejudice fo far as to be induced to relifli it. At fun-let they fup upon the fame di(h, and indeed (upper is their principal meal. Such is the general mode of living among the principal people in towns. There are confider- able multitudes, however, who do not fare fo well, but are obliged to content themfelves with a little bread and fruit inftead of animal food, and to deep in the open ftreets. This kind of exigence feems ill calculated to endure even in an inactive flate; far more fevere mufl it therefore be to thofe who exercife the laborious employment of couriers in this country, who travel on foot a journey of three or four hundred miles, at the rate of between thirty and forty miles a day, without taking any other nouriihment than a little bread, a few figs, and fome water, and who have no better fhelter at night than a tree. It is wonderful with what alacrity and perfeverance thefe people perform the mod fatiguing journies at all feafons of the year. There is a regular company of them in every town, who are ready to be difpatched at a mo ment's A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. merit's warning to any part of the country their employers may have occafion to fend them. They conftitute in this empire the only mode of con veyance for all public and private difpatches; and as they are well known in the place to which they belong, they are very punctual in delivering every thing that is put into their hands. From their fteady pace in travelling, at the rate of about four miles an hour, and from their being able to pafs over parts which from the mountainous ftate of the country, and from the want of good roads, perfons on horfeback would find inaccelTible, they are indeed by far the moft expeditious mefTengers that could be employed. As a proof of the a- mazing exertions of which they are capable, I need only mention, that there have been repeated inflances of a courier proceeding from Morocco to Tangier, which is a journey of about three hundred and thirty miles, in fix days. As none but the very vulgar go on foot ia this country, for the purpofe of vifiting, mules are confidered as more genteel than horfes; and the greatefl pride of a Moor is to have luch as walk remarkably fafl, and keep his footmen, of which the number is proportionable to the rank and con- fequence of the mafter, on a continued run. As the Moors are not fond of admitting men into their houfes, except uf on particular occafions, if the weather is line they place a mat, and fome- tirnes a carpet, on the ground before their door, feat themfelves upon it crofs-legged, and receive their friends, who form a circle, fitting in the fame manner, with their attendants on the out- fide of the groupc. Upon thcfe occaficns they either A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C, 217 cither drink tea, or fmoke and converfe. The Areets are fometimes crowded with parties of this kind; fome engaged at playing at an inferior kind of chefs or drafts, at which they are very expert-, but the majority in converfation. The people of this country, indeed, are fo decidedly averfe to (landing up, or walking about, that if only two or three people meet, they fquat themfelves down in the fir ft clean place they can find, if the con verfation is to hold but for a few minutes. At Morocco, when I vifited Muky On/Tin e, one of Sidi Mahomet's Tons, I was always received in the manner which I have now described. I found him fitting crofs-legged on a common mat, in the fame open place where his horfes were kept, and his friends forming a femicircle round him, I was immediately ctefired to form one of the groupe, and was helped to tea upon the occafion* In the courfe of our canverfation, the prince told me, that the Chriftians and Moors were brother? that the Erigliih were very good men; but that he had a particular averfion to the friars, for they were a determined fet of knaves, and were neither friends to Chriftians or Moors. I found this prince a hanuiome young mail, of about the age of fix-and-twemy, of rather a dark complexion, but accompanied with an open and generous countenance. He had been a few years ago appointed to the government of Tafilet, where he io far gained tbe afTeclions of the people under his government, that they proclaimed him king; and he for fome time gcvci ned with all the independent authority of a ib \rcreign. This cir- cuiDflance obliged the emperor todiipatchanarmy L againft 2l3 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. againfl him, upon the arrival of which he im mediately furrendered, and was brought to Mo rocco, where he was deprived of all his property, as well as his power; and when I was in the country, he lived in a very retired manner indeed. When at Tafilet, he had the character of afting very liberally towards every perfon with whom he was connected ; at Morocco he manifefted ibme proofs of the fame diipofition towards me: merely for a trifling attention which I (hewed to his favourite black, he prefented me with a horfe, that proved as good as any of which I had poflef- iion while in the country. The only vice to which this young man was ad- difted was that of drinking to a very great excels. In this refpect, however, he was not more cul pable than all the reft of his royal brothers. He told me, that if he did not daily take before dinner fix tumblers of aquadent, a fpecies of brandy fornething weaker than fpirits of wine, he would not be able to hold up his head the remainder of the day. He wlflied to know if this cuftom. was bad for his health ; and if ib, what I would ad vile him to do. I recommended to him the dii- ufe of fpirits, and to fupply their place with wine-, which he might either procure from the European merchants at Mogodore, or he might ufe the wine which was made by the Jews. This advice, however, the prince obferved he could not follow, fince the Mahometan law more par ticularly forbade the uie of wine, than that of fpirits. This, I replied, might be true, in the ft rift letter of the law; but when wine was ufed zs a medicine, it became no longer wine. This idea A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. idea I found fatisfied the fcruples oi* the prince, and he promifed to follow my advice. I was afterwards ftnt for to Muley Slemma, another of the emperor's fons, who with the late emperor Muley Yazid, \vere the offspring of a woman whofe parents were Engliih. This prince, who is about thirty-eight years of age, and of a tall and majedic appearance, with a very expref- five and lively countenance, (hewed me uncom mon attention the whole time I was at Morocco. His paviilion, where he received flrangers, and tranfafted bufmefs, was fituated at the extremity of a long walk, in a garden of orange-trees. It confifted of one large room on the ground floor, fitted up in the fame iiile as that of Muley Abfulem atTarudant. The prince was fitting crofs-kgged on a large mattrefs, covered with line white linen, and placed on the floor fronting the door-way, with his Moorifh vifitors on each fide of him, forming a femicircle. Upon my firft introdu<5Hon he expreffed uncommon pleafure at feeing me, exclaiming, Bono, Bono, Anglaifi! and added, that the Englilh were his brothers and beft friends. I was then directed to feel his pulle, and to inform Mm whether or not he was in health ; as l->on as I a/lured him he was perfectly well, he defircd me to be feated on a narrow carpet, which was placed on the floor for the purpofe, and he then ordered one of his pages to bring in tea, though fo late as twelve o'clock at noon. Out of compliment to me, for the Moors feldom ufe it, the prince fent for milk, andfaid, as he knew the Englilh always drank it with their tea, he would prefent me with a milch cow, that I might enjoy the cuftom of L 2 my 220 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. my own country. This promife, however, en tirely efcaped his royal highnefs's memory, and the cow never made her appearance. In the courfe of our converiation, the prince manifefted many indications of good-nature and addrefs; told me, that whilil he was on his travels in Turkey, he had been conducted from one port to another in the Mediterranean by an Engiifli frigate, the captain of which (hewed him io much attention, that he fhould always bear it in re membrance. As foon as the ceremony of tea was concluded, the prince ordered out his horie, which \vas a very beautiful young animal, with a laddie ornamented with a rich velvet cover, and gold IHr- rups. He then mounted him, and went through all the manceuvers of managing a horie with \vhich the moors are acquainted, fuch as putting him upon the full fpeed, and flopping him in- itantaneoufly, rifmg up on the fad die and firing a mufket when the horie is on the full gallop, Sec. in the performance of all which exerciies he fee m- ed very dexterous. The prince then aiked me if we could do fuch things in England \ and with out waiting for a reply, ordered one of his at tendants to catch a fheep out of his grounds, and take it home to my lodgings. He iaid, that as he always was fond of feeing his brothers the Englifh, he wifhed I would viiit him twice a day during my continuance at Morocco, and then gallopped off. But to return to my obferva- tions. The manner of falutation among the Moors is, when two equals meet, by a quick motion they /hake hands, and afterwards luis each each other's A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 22T other's hand. When an inferior meets a fuperior, fuch as an officer of rank, a judge, or a governor, he kifles that part of his Haick which covers the arm, and fometirnes, as a higher mark of refpeft, he will kiis his feet. Bat the compliment due to the emperor, or any of the princes of the blood, is to take off the cap or turban, and to proftrate the head to the ground. When two particular friends or relations meet, they anxiouily embrace and kiis each other's faces and beards for a few minutes, make a number of enquiries about the health of each party, as well as that of their families, but feldcm allow time for a reply. The common topics for converfation among thefe people, are the occurrences of the place, religion, their women, and their hories. As curiofity is a quality which naturally attaches to all indolent people, it may eafily be conjectured that the Moors are not deficient in this refpeft. It is incredible with what avidity they lay hold of any trifling circumftance which may occur in the neighbourhood 5 what pleafure and what pride they feem to take in communicating it; nor are they deficient in the arts of magnifying or adorn ing the tale with every addition which may ierve to render It more palatable, or give it a greater appearance of plaufibility. Religion is alfo a favourite topic; but this fubjeft is confined principally to thofe focietie.s which are frequented by their Talbs, or men of letter?. As thefe gentlemen, however, are not a little protid of their acquirements in reading and writing, they do not fail to embrace every, opportunity of manifefting their fuperiority over L 3 ' thole 222 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &.C.. thofe who are not fo happy as to be (Mingm/lied by thole accomplifhments. Decency of manners and delicacy in converfd- tion are among the moft certain marks of refine ment and civilization, and the contrary vices are equally univerfal charafteriftics of ignorance and barbarifm.. The converfation of the Moors con-, cerning their women is of the moft trifling and difgufting defcription, and confifts of abfurd and vulgar obfervations, equally repugnant to decency and common fenfe. The fubje6r, however, on which, like our young men of fafhion in England, they appe-\r moft calculated to fhine, is their horles. It would indeed be truly difgraceful not to be accomplifhed upon this topic, fince it appears to occupy, both day and night, by far the greateft portion of their attention. I have formerly intimated that thefe- animals are feldom kept in ftables in Morocco. r l hey are watered and fed only once a day, the former, at one o'clock at noon, and the latter at iun-ict ; and the only mode which they uie to clean them, is by wafliing them all over in a river two or th.ree times a week, and fniTering them to dry themfelves. Notwithftanding the attachment which the Moors manifeft to their nodes, they moft certain ly ufe them with great cruelty. Their higheft pleafbre, and one of their fir-ft accomplifhmtnts, is, by means of long and fharp fpurs to make the horfe go full fpeed, and then to ftop him infian- taneoufly ; and in this they certainly manifeft uncommon dexterity. The iron-work of their bridles is fo conflru.l:ed that by its preflure on the hoiie's. A TOUR TO MOROCCO, 8CC. horfe's tongue artd lower jaw, with the lead exer tion of the rider it fills his month full ot blood, and if not ufed with the utmoil caution throws him inevitably on his back. The bridle has only a fmgle rein, which is fo very long that it ferve* the purpofe of both whip and bridle. The Moorifh faddle is in ibme degree fimilar to the Spanifh, but the pummel is ftill higher and more peaked. Their ftirrups, in which they ride very ihort, are fo formed as to cover the whole of the foot. They either plate or gild them, according to the dignity, opulence, or fancy of the poi- feflbr. . Their laddies, which are covered with red woollen cloth, or, if belonging to a perfon of confeqnence, with red fa tin or damafk, are fattened with one ftrong girth round the body, in the European ftyle, and another round the {boulders. The Moors frequently amufe themfelves by riding with the utmoft apparent violence againft a wall 5 and a fcranger would conceive it impoffible for them to avoid being darned to pieces, when juft as the horfe's tpad touches the wall, they flop him with the utmoft accuracy. To ftrangers on horfeback or on foot it is alfo a common fpecies of compliment to ride violently up to them, as if intending to trample them to pieces, and then to ftop their horfes fhort and fire a mufquet in tleir faces. This compliment 1 have experienced, and could very well have difpenfed with their polite- nefs. Upon theie occafions, they are very proud in difcovering their dexterity in horfemaafhip, by making the animal rear up, fo as almofl to throw him on his back, putting him immediately L 4 after 224 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &c. after on the full fpeed for a few yards, then (top ping him inftanti'neoudy, and all this is accom panied by loud and hollow cries. There is another favourite amufement, which diiplays perhaps iuperior agility : A number of perfons on horfeback {tart at the fame moment, raid accompanied with loud fhouts, gallop at full fpeed to an appointed fpot, when they {land up flraight in the ftirrups, put the rein, which I have jnll obferved is very long, in their mouths, level their pieces and fire them ofF^ throw their fire locks immediately over -their right (boulders, and flop their horfes nearly at the fame inftant. This I am told, is their manner of engaging in an acHon. Though I am willing to allow the Moors the merit of fitting a horie well, and, as far as is ne- cuTary fcr the above-mentioned exercife, of having a great command over him, yet their horfes are ili-bred, and they entirely neglect to teach them thole paces which in Europe are cofllMered as the moil agreeable for the common purpofes of riding. As none of thefe a^imds in Morocco are geldings, and as the Moors are unacquainted with the ufe of the ring, they are obliged to break them in when very young, by taking them long and fatiguing journies, particularly over the moun- taitious and rocky part of the country, where they foon reduce their fpirit ; they then take the opportunity of teaching them to rear up, (land fire, gallop, and flop fhort in the manner already related ; and having accomplifned this they are iatisfied without any farther qualification. For this reafon a Barbary hcrfe feldom cau perform any A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 22$ any other pace than a full gallop or a walk ; and from being broken in and worked hard before they have acquired their full ftrength, thefe horfes in a very few years become unfit for fervice. The Moors feldom ride the mares, but keep them in the country for breeding; and, contrary to the general opinion in Europe, they confider them fa much more valuable than horfes, that they are never permitted to be exported, Like all barbarous nations, the Moors are pal- fionately fond of mufic, and fome few have atafte for poetry. Their /low airs, for want of that va riety which is introduced when the fcience has at tained a degree of perfection, have a- very melan choly famenefs \ but fome of their quick tunes are beautiful and fimple, and partake in fome degree of the characleriftic melody of the Scotch airs* The poetry of their fongs, the conftant fubjeft of which is love, though there are few nations per haps who are lefs feafible of that patfion, has cer tainly lefs merit than the mufic. Their inftruineats are a kind of hautboy which differs from ours onlj^in having no keys; the mandoline, which they have learnt to play upon from their neighbours the Spaniards ; another inftrument bearing fome refemblance to a violin, and played upon in a fimilar manner, but with only two {kings ; the large drum, the common pipe, and the tabor. Thefe united and acco nied with a ceitain number of voices, upon many occafions form a band, though Iblo mufk is more common in this unfocial country. Upon all days of rejoicing, this kind of mafic, repeated vollies of mufquetry, either by men on. hcrfeback or on foot, and in the evening a grand L 5 attack 226 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &O, attack upon the Cufcofoo, conftitute the principal part of the public entertainments. Mountebanks and jugglers allb of every defcription meet with great encouragement from the Moors. There are no other places of reception for the accommodation of travellers in this country ex cept in their Fondaks, which are only to be met with in large towns. Thefe confift of a certain num ber of dirty apartments, with no other accommoda tion whatever, but the walls and roof, to proteft the ftranger from the inclemency of the weather; and he m'ufl fnrnifh himfelf with every article of which he rjaay be in want, both in refpeft to prg-. viilons and bedding. There is at the fame time, an open court, where the horfes of all travellers are intermixed. In moil: of the towns there are regular fchools, where thofe children whofe parents have the means of doing it, and have fenfe enough to fend them (which indeed are but few in proportion to the whole) are inflrudled by the Talbs in reading and writing, and fometime.s in the firft rules of arithmetic. The greater part of the people, how ever, learn very little mdfce than to read a few prayers felefted from the Koran, which are in common ufe, and are written in Arabic characters., on paper which is palled on a board. To fpeak particularly on the reUgion of the Moors would require a volume, ana: fuch a vo lume as would certainly be more extenfive than entertaining. It is well known they profefs the Mahometan faith, and I may add, that they attend very rigidly to all the bigotry and fuperftion which. is peculiar to that religion. Since A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 22? Since every ftranger who enters a mofque is either put to death, or is obliged to conform to their religion, a very exaft account of their places of worfhip is not to be expected from an Euro pean. The observations I made en paffant, the doors which are very large, being in the. day-time always open, I mall endeavour to relate.. The mofque is ufually a large fquare building^, compofed of the fame materials as the houfes> confining of broad and lofty piazzas, opening into a fquare court, in a manner iafome degree fimiJar to the Royal Exchange of London. In the centre of the court is a large fountain, and a fmall ftream furrounds the piazzas, where the Moors perform the ceremony of ablution. The court and piazzas are floored with blue and white chec- quered tiling, and the latter are covered with matting, upon which the Moors kneel while re peating their prayers. In the moil confpicuous part of the mofque, fronting the Eaft, {lands a kind of pulpit, where the Talb or pried occa- fionally preaches. The Moors alway enter this place of worfhip barefooted, leaving their flippers at the door. On the top of the mofque is a fquare fteeple with a flag-flaff, whither at Hated hours the Talb afcends, hoifls a white flag (for they have no bells,) and calls the people to prayers, repeating ir*Arabic three times, and addreffing him- fel each time to a different part of the town, How great is God ! Mahomet is his prophet / Come all ye faithful ; Come to prayer. From this high fituation. the voice is heard at a confiderable diftance, and the Talbs have a monotonous mode of enuncia tion,, the, voice finking at the end of every fhort. 2^8" A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. fentence, which in fome meafure refembles the found of a bell. The moment the flag is difplayed every perfon forlakes his employment and goes to prayers. If they are near a mofque they perform their devo tions within it, otherwife immediately on the fpot where they happen to be, and always with their faces towards the Eaft, in honour of the prophet Mahomet, who, it is well known was buried at Medina. The prayer which is. generally repeated on thefe occafions is a chapter from the Koran, acknowledging the goodnefs of God and Maho met, and it is accompanied with various geftures,, fuch as lifting the hands above the head, bowing twice, performing two genuflexions, bowing again twice, and kiting the ground. The whole of this ceremony they repeat three times. Their fabbath is on our Friday, and commences, from fix o'clock the preceding evening. On this day they life a blue flag in (lead of the white one, As it has been prophefied that they are to be con quered by the Chriftians on the fabbath day, the gates of all the towns and of the emperor's palaces- are fhut when at divine fervice on that day, in- order to avoid being furprifed during that period,. Their Taibs are not diflinguifhed by any particu lar drefs, TheMcors have three folemn devotiftnal periods. In the courfe of the year. The firft, which is named Aid de Cabier, is held, in commemoration of the birth of Mahomet, It continues ieven days, during which period every perfon who can afford the expence, kills a fheep as a facrifice, and dividqs it among his friends. The lecond is the Ramadunv A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. Ramadam. This is a rigorous faft or lent, held at the ieafon when Mahomet difappeared in his flight from Mecca to Medina ; and is conduced by the Moors with fo much fuperftition, that for thirty days, from fun-rife to fun-fet, they lay afide all worldly acls, and devote their whole attention to exercifes of piety ; carefully abftaining from eating, drinking, fmoaking, wafhing their mouths^ or even fw allowing their faliva ; and they are in dulged with their ufual cuftom of bathing only 5 upon condition, that they avoid fufFering the wa ter to approach their heads, left any of it fhould enter the mouth or ears. To make amends for this ftrift obfervance of their lent during the day, they appropriate the whole night to the indul gence of every gratification, and at the expiration of the faft, a general feftival takes place, named the Beyran which continues feven days. The third is named Llafhore, and is a day fet apart by Maho met for every peribn to compute the value of his property, in order for the payment of Zakat, that is, one tenth of their income to the poor, and other pious ufes. N Although this feaft only lafts a finglc day, yet it is celebrated with far greater magni ficence than either of the others. There is alfo a fuperftitious cuftom among the Moors, when any thing of moment is to be undertaken, fuch as going on a dangerous journey or voyage, the diipofal of their children in mar riage, c. for fo:ne grave peribn to make an har- rangue ro ; : c mtiltiT r^c, upon which his auditors call for the key of direftion. By this is meant the performance of joining the hands, looking ftcadfaftly cu the palms during the admonition* then- ^ TOUR TO MOROCCO, &. then by a joint concurrence calling upon God and and the prophet, and concluding the ceremony by ftroaking their faces with both hands, and joining in chorus, faying Salcm^ Salem, (peace be with you) with much c?evotir : -. The due performance of this ceremony, they conceive will enfure them certain fuccefs in a J their undertakings. The Moors compute time by lunar months, and count the days of the week by the firft, fecond, third, &c. beginning from our Sunday. They ule a common reed for writing, and begin their manufcripts from right to left. The Moors marry very young> many of their females not being more than twelve years of age at their nuptials. As Mahometans, it is well known that their religion admits of polygamy to the extent of four wives, and as many concubines as they pleafe ; but if we except the very opulent,, the people feldom avail themfelves of this indul gence, fince it entails on them a vail additional expence in houfe-keeping and in providing for. a large family. Whatever inftirution is contrary to truth and found morality will in practice refute itfelf ; nor is any further argument than this fingle obfervation wanting to anfwer all the abfiirdities which have been advanced in favour of a plurality of wives. In contracting marriage the parents of both parties are the only agents, and the intended bride and bridegroom never fee each other till the ceremony is performed. The marriage fettlements are made before the Cadi, and then the friends of the bride produce her portion, or if not, the h, -ri band agrees to fettle a certain fum upon her, in m cafe he fliould die, or divorce her on account of bar. TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C, 23! s barrennefs, or any other caufe. The children of the wives have all an equal claim to the effects of the father and mother, but thofe of the concubines can each only claim half a fhare. When the marriage is finally agreed upon, the bride is kept at home eight days, to receive her female friends, who pay congratulatory vifits every day. At the fame time a Talb attends* upon her, to converfe with her relative to the folemn engage ment on which fhe is about to enter ; on thefe occafions he commonly accompanies his admoni tions with ilnging a pious hymn, which is adapted to the folemnity. The bride alfo with her near relations go through the ceremony of being paint ed afrefh ; the nature of which cuftom I fhall defcribe when I fpeak of the harem. During this procefs the bridegroom on the other hand receives vifits from his male friends in the morning, and in the evening rides through the town accompanied by them, fome playing on hautboys and drums, while others are employed in firing volleys of mufquetry. In all their fefti- vals the difcharge of mufquetry indeed forms a principal part of the entertainment. Contrary to the European mode, which particularly aims at firing with exaftnefs, the Moors difcharge their pieces as irregularly as poffible, fo as to have a continual fucceffion of reports for a few minutes. On the day of marriage, the bride in the evening is put into a fquare or oclagonal cage, about twelve feet in circumference, which is covered with fine white linen, and fometimes with gauzes and filks of various colours. In this ve hicle which is placed on a mule, fhe is paraded round A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. round the ftreets accompanied by her relations and friends,, fome carrying lighted torches, others playing on hautboys, and a third party again firing vollies of mufquetry. In this manner fhe is carried to the houfe of her intended hufband, who returns about the fame time from performing fimiiar ceremonies. On her arrival he is placed in an apartment by herfelf, and her huiband is introduced to her alone for the firfl time, who finds her fitting on a filk or velvet cufhionj, fuppofmg her to be a perfon of confequence, with a linail table before her, upon which are two wax candles lighted. Her (hi ft, or more properly ihirt, hangs clown like a train behind her, and over it is a filk or velvet robe with clofe ileeves, which at the breaft and wrifts is embroidered with gold ; this dreis reaches fomething lower than the calf of the leg. Rewind her head is tied a black filk fcarf, which hangs behind as low as the ground. Thus attired, the bride fits with her hands over her eyes, when her hufband appears and receives her as his wife,. without any further ceremony * : for the agree ment made by the friends before the Cadi is the only fpecific contract which is thought neceflary. If the hufband fhould have any reafon to fufpeft that his wife has not been ftriftly virtuous, he is at liberty to divorce her and take another. For fome time after marriage the family and friends * Interim duae miniftrse negrae exfpeclant foris, ut no- titiam habeant coHfumimtionis; quod cum pro certo cog- noverint cantos buccinaruiiij & bombardarum emiffio fac- turn annunciant* arc A TOUR TO MOROCCO, c. 233 are engaged in much feafting and a variety of amuiements, which laft a longer or fnorter time^ according to the circumftances of the parties. It is uiuaily cuftomary for the man to remain at Jhome eight days, and the woman eight months after they are fir ft married; and the w r oman is at liberty to divorce her felf from her hufband if fhe can prove that he does not provide her with a proper fubfiltence, If he curfes her, the law obliges him to pay her, for the fir ft offence, eight ducats, for the fecond, a rich drefs of (till greater value; and the third time fhe may leave him entirely. He is then at liberty co marry again in two months. At the birth of a child, it is cuftomary for the parents to grieve eight days, at the expiration of which they facrifice a goat or a (heep, and in vite their friends and acquaintance to partake of the feaii. Women lufFer but little inconvenience in this country from child-bearing; they are fre quently up the next clay, and go through all the duties of the houfe with the infant on their backs, They do not adopt the method of teaching their children to walk which is cuftomary in Europe, but when they are twelve months old they put them on the floor, where from firft crawling they naturally in a (hort time acquire the habit of -walk ing, and as focn as they can be made in the leaft degree ufeful, they are put to the various kinds of labour adapted to their age and ftrength. Others, whofe parents are in better circumftances, are, as I before obferved 3 fometimes fent to fchool; and thofe who are intended for the church ufual- ly continue their ftudies till they have nearly learnt 234 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. learnt the Koran by rote. In that cafe they arc enrolled among the Talbs or learned men of the law ; and upon leaving fchool are paraded round the flreets on a horfe, accompanied by mafic and a large concourfe of people. The proceffton is conducted in the following manner. Upon the day appointed, one of the mo ft fhewy hories in the place is procured for the youth to ride on, \vho if he is a perfon of confequence, is drefr, in all the gaiety which filks and brocades can afford, wearing a turban richly ornamented with gold and jewels, and interiperied with flowers. Thus ar rayed, he mounts his horfe, which alfo is not with* out its decorations, carrying in his hand his pray* ers palled on a board, on which he locks with ftedfait attention ; and he proceeds with all the fedatenefs and compofed gravity of old age to the different places appointed for the purpofe, ac companied by mufic, and all his fchool-fellows on horfeback, . drefTed according to their circum- frances. At laft they meet at the houfe of the head boy of the fchool, where they are treated with a collection of fweatmeats. This cuflom, which is evidently adopted with a view of pro moting an emulation in their youths, is one of the very few good inftitutions which are obfervable among thele people. In celebrating the rite of circumcifion, the child is dreffed very fumptuoufly and carried on a mule, or, if the parents are in poor circumftances, on an afs, accompanied with flags flying and muficians playing on hautboys and beating drums. In this manner they proceed to the mofque, where the ceremony is performed. When A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. When any perfon dies, a certain number of women are hired for the purpofe of lamentation (for the men are feldom obferved to weep for the lofs of a friend) in the performance of which no thing can be more grating to the ear, or more unpleafant> than their frightful moans or rather bowlings : at the fame time thele mercenary mourn ers beat their heads and breafls, and tear their cheeks with their nails. The bodies are ufually buried a. tew hours after death. Previous, to in terment the cor pfe is \v allied very clean, and lew- ed up in a fliroud compofed of {even pieces of fine linen united together, with the right hand under the head, which is pointed towards Mecca; it is carried on a bier fupported upon men's flioulders to the burying-place, which is always, with great propriety, on the outfide of the town, for they never bury their dead iri the mofques or within the bounds of an inhabited place. The bier is accompanied by numbers of people, two a- breaft, who walk very fail:, calling upon God and Mahomet, and Tinging hymns adapted to the occafion. The grave is made very wide at the bottom, and narrow at the top, and the body is depofited without any other ceremony than fmging and praying in the fame manner as on their way to the grave. They have no tombs in this country, but long and plain flones-, and it is frequently cuftomary for the female friends of the departed to weep over their graves for feveraldays after the funeral. The Moors will not allow Chriftrans or Jews to pafs over their places of interment; as they have -4 fuperftitiQus idea, which is perhaps more pre valent. 236 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. Talent among the lower clafs of people, than thofe who are better informed, that the dead fuffer pain from having their graves trodden upon by infidels; and I recollect when at Tangier, I re- ceceived a very levere rebuke from a Moor, for accidentally having paffed through one of their burying grounds. When a women lofes her hufband fne mourns four months and eight days, during which period fhe is to wear no iilver or gold-, and if (he hap pens to be pregnant, fhe is to mourn till fhe is brought to bed. For the above time the relations of her late hufband are obliged to fupport her. I could not learn that any mourning was due from the huiband for the lofs of his wife*, but it is cuftomary, particularly among the great people, for a fon to mourn for his father by not (having his head or any part of his beard, and by not cutting his nails for a certain period. When a Jew cr a Chriftian is converted to the Mahometan faith, he is immediately drefTed in a Mooriih habit, and paraded round the ftreets on horkback, accompanied with rnufic and a great concourfe 'of people. He then chufes himielf a Moorifh name, and fixes on a peribn who adopts him as a child, and is ever afterwards called his father. This adoption, however, is only norninalj for he is by no means bound to fupport him. The new convert is not allowed to marry any other woman than a negro, or the daughter of a renegado-, and his descendants are not con- ficlered as genuine Moors till the fourth genera tion. The A TOUR TO MOROCCO,, &C. 237 The renegadocs in the empire of Morocco are principally Spaniards, though there are ibme few of other nations in the country, who have deferted from Ceuta or Spain, to avoid the hand of juftice for fome capital crime or mifdemeanor common ly, indeed, murder, I met with many of thefe people at Morocco, who frankly acknowledged to me that murder had been the caule of their defertion. Though the emperor may for various reaibns find it convenient to countenance rene- gadoes, yet the Moors in general fo thoroughly deteft them, that they cannot be induced upon any terms to allow them to form a part of their fociety. I cannot better conclude this feftion than by fubmitting to the reader the following account of the caravans to Mecca and Guinea, which I re ceived from a gentleman refident in Barbary, on whofe veracity I could place the utmoil con fidence. Seven Months before the feaft Aid de Cabier, or the commemoration of the birth of Mahomet, pilgrims from every quarter afTcmble at Fez, in order to join the caravan which at that feafon proceeds for Mecca. They are compofed of three clafles of people. Firft, The mountaineers, named Brebes: Secondly, The Mooriih merchants: and, Thirdly, Perfons in public employments, or who are engaged about the court of the emperor. Thus religion and intereft confpire to draw together a large and motely groupe, and to induce them to undertake a journey which is as fatiguing and dangerous as it is expeniivtc. The A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. The firft clafs are not required to a(k permiffion to join the caravan. The fecond are obliged to prefent themfelves to their refpeftive governors, as well to avoid the inconveniences of debts on their own account, as on that of their families, who might be fubjeft to be molefted by credi tors during their abfence. If a merchant has the leaft connection with the court, it is ex.pe6l.ed that he will alfo prefent to the emperor, who, as he feels himfelf dilpofed, grants or refufes him permiffion to enter upon the journey. Thofe of the third clafs muft have an exprefs permiffion from the emperor, who never allows any to go whofe circumftances will not fufficiently en able them to defray the expences of the pilgri mage. As there are two modes of performing this pilgrimage, by fea and by land, thofe who prefer the former are fubjefted to an examination by the governor of the port whence they embark, to fee that they pay the freight of the vefTel, and to inform himfelf whether they have iufficient means to go and return from this facred objeft of Mahometan devotion, without being under the neceffity of borrowing, or being fufpefted of ufmg any bale and difhonourable means of obtaining a fubfiftence. Thofe who proceed by land are liable to be examined alfo, but not ib rigoroufly as the others; the Shaik of the caravan hiving the power to punifh thofe who are guilty of any irregularities. The place whence the caravan fets out by land, is from Teza, a town in the province of Tedla, forae diflunce to the Eaft of the city of Fez, the latter A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 39 latter being the firft place of rendezvous. At Fez, the moil commercial city in the whole empire, and abounding with provifions of every defcrip- tion, each peribn fur nifties himfelf in the beft man ner he is able, according to his rank and circum- flances, with a iufficient fupply to laft till he reaches Tripoli or Tunis at leaft. This grand caravan is always accompanied by many others, of which one goes to Algiers, another to Tunis, and a third to grand Cairo, &c. Thofe perfons who go t> Algiers and Tunis are not under the neceflity of afking permiflion, as they are perfons who are accuftomed to carry on a trade with thofe two places ; whence they return with a quantity of their refpedlive manufactures. The caps of Tunis are of great ufe in the empire of Morocco, and their filks alfo fell at a very good price, though upon the whole thofe of Al giers are preferable for the girdles ufed by the Moors, curtains, women's drefs, and furniture for beds and rooms. The manufactures indeed of both Algiers and Tunis are brought to a greater perfec tion than thofe of Moracco. The merchants who go upon thefe expeditions carry with them ready money, Haicks and flippers, which are the munu- faftures of Morocco, and difpoi'e of the two laft articles to the Arabs and inhabitants of the towns in the neighbourhood of Algiers and Tunis, who, though they do not wear the Haick as a part of their drefs, yet make ufe of them for a variety of other purpofes. Some time within the fir ft fifteen days of the month Jumeth Tenii, every proper preparation being previoufly made, the grand caravan fets of? from 240 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. from Teza in the following order : After having invoked the true and fole God and his prophet Mahomet, to give every benediction to this iacred journey, they ail meet near the tent of the chief conductor, who is named in Arabic Scheck Re beck, and commence their devotions to the found of clarinets, tabors, &c. The unloaded camels and mules aie then full put in motion, attended by the cooks, watermen, &c. Next to this party follow thoie who travel on foot, either from devo tion or neccflisy; to "Vfe i- entrufled the care of the loaded mules and camels. Ana the rear is brought up by thole who are mo-inted cither on horfes or mulen. The caravan is put iu motion at fun-rife, {tops at tve; ':- p'elock at noon to dine, and about four hi th oon the people encamp in the lame manner y did at Teza. The courie which they tale 1 through the in terior parts of the country, leaving Tremecen, Algiers, and Tunis to their lci>. Some of them, indeed, make excufions to the two larter places, and afterwards join the oinvan. !>y tbefe means they are enabled both to obi am a frcfli f apply of provifions for thernfelve^ ana beafh, and 1.0 iell to the Arabs Haicks, flippers, and old caps, for which they ufually receive a very good prce: and the profits enable them frequently to make advan tageous purchafes at Mecca. Alexandria, and Cairo. Upon their arrival, after a journey of two months and a half, at that \ irt of tl , ica-couil where the tower of SaLacs !.-> i, -lat.fd, and whi h is about half a days ride "rom the city ofTr-fuii, they refl themfelves ten daya. At this place all i the A Touit TO MOROCCO,, &c- 241 the pilgrims fuppiy themfelvcs with forty or fifty days provifions, which is generally diffident to fupport them to Alexandria or Grand Cairo; and on their return they pur chafe in the neighbour hood of Tunis and Tripoli a large fuppiy of mutes, frequently giving only twenty-five hard dollars for what they afterwards fell in Morocco for eighty or an hundred. From the tower of Salines they continue their route as far as Alexandria and Grand "Cairo, where they furnifh themfelves in the fame manner as at Tripoli, with diffident provifions for the remainder of the journey, which requires al* together near feven months to accomplish. To thole who undertake this journey for the purpole of trade, it generally aniwers extremely well. By purchafing goods at one place, and felling them at another, they contrive to make upon eacii file a profit of ten per cent. The Arabs from Fez as far as Alexandria and Grand Cairo, though a rude clafs of people, are very warmly attached to their religion, and on that account give the pilgrims a friendly reception, furnifliing them with barley, butter, eggs, mutton, beef, &c. From that place, however, to Mecca the route is not fo eafy, as the Arabs, inftead of the benefactors, frequently become the plunderers of thefe holy travellers. On thefe occafions they fpare nothing, and leave them not So much as th avaricious, and capable of committing any crime for a very trifling emolument. A fatal proof the cruelty of thefe Arabs occurred in 1786, when forty pil grims on their return from Mecca, were mafTacred. Theie people demanded hofpitality from the moun taineers of Zamor near Mequinez, for only one night; but as they brought ibme valuable goods with them, it is fuppofed that it was owing to that circumftance, that they were all put to death. The country beyond the mountains of Atlas, about fix days journey to the Eaft ot Morocco, is not even known though it is probable it might be penetrated with iafety, provided the fame means were ufed as are employed by the caravans which go to the South ; that is, a fmali proportion of force, and a fmail proportion of generofity. There is no particular caravan fo considerable for the South as that which goes to Mecca. As thefe indeed are intended merely for the purpofes of commerce, they feldom conilil of more than one hundred and fifty, or perhaps two, or at moit three hundred perfons, including the mule teers, camel-drivers, and other fervants. Some of thefe caravans fet out from Morocco, while others go from Tarudant, Fez, and Tetuan. The fir ft 'pals by way of Domnet, while the others meet at Tafllet, and thence puriue their journey towards the deiert. Thefe caravans go no further than Tombut, where there are fome merchants of Morocco, eftabliilied for the purpofe of carrying on a trade with the inland parts of Guinea, where they trafnck for Haves, ivory, gold dufl, &c. The merchandizes which the caravans carry from Morocco, A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 245 Morocco, Taruclant, &'c. con lift of Haicks and blue cloths for which they line! a good fale throughout the country of the Mohafres and at Thouat. The city of Thonat is in the interior parts of the country, about thirty days journey from Ta- filet. From Thouat the caravans proceed directly to Tombut. There is much greater danger in paJilng the two defer ts between Tafilet and Thouat, th-in between the latter place and Tombnt. As the Arabs of the delerts are much addicted to rapine, the caravans are obliged ,to make them trifling prefents, to enable them to travel without being molefted. The other Arabs, who pnrchafe merchandize, fuch as blue cloths, ihiall daggers, looking- glafles, c. pay generally in return oftrich- feathers ; and this traffick is attended with very tolerable profits. The articles which the caravans carry immedi ately to Tombut are tobacco and fait. It is ne- cellary to pay attention to what camels may be wanted for the purpofes of carrying water through the deferts, as in ibme parts they travel four, and in others nine days, without meeting with a drop of water. It is in a great meafure on this account that the camel becomes fo ufefnl an animal in hot climates. Their ftomachs, it is v/ell known, are fo coniirucled as to allow them to pafs many days without food or drink. In the inner coats of their ftomachs there are a number of little cells, in which they retain a large proportion of water for a length of time, nature having provided them with a method of regurgitating it when thirfty. From the fizc of the ftomach it alfo admits of a M 3 large A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. large portion of food to be taken in at a time, to which they have recourfe by rumination when their appetite calls for a fupply of nourishment. Their owners., therefore, have only to give them plenty cf barley and water at the entrance of the <^eferts, and that proves fufncient to la ft them till a'frefh fupply can be conveniently procured. Thele extraordinary animals are able to carry a very great weight in proportion to their fize, and to perform very long journeys without much ap- u txnt fatigue. They are ufed both for the pur- pofes of riding and carrying burdens. Their i'leps are very long and (low, and they are tracl- ind eafily managed. They are taught to kneel down when they are loaded ; and when ufed for the fad ale are entirely managed by a rtiort .'u:-l thick flick, which both ferves tlie purpo&s of bridle and whip. It is not uncommon in Barbary to fee three perfons, with furniture in proportion, mounted upon one camel. Upon the arrival of the caravans at Tombut, they exchange their tobacco and fait for (laves, gold dud, and ivory, which are brought thither from Guinea. Four thoufand (laves are fuppofed to be annually carried from Tombut, great part of whom are fent to Mafcar, Algiers, and Tunis, but feldom happens that any eunuchs are fat away, uruefs by a particular commiflion the emperor or feme of the princes, no other pen'jn in the country being permitted to keep It is indeed extremely difficult to procure them at all. The place whence they are ufually brought is the kingdom of Bambara. In Muley I/hmael's relgii the number of eunuch's in the em pire A TOUR TO MGPwOCCO, CCC. 247 pire of Morocco was fuppofed to amount to feven hundred, but they are now ib reduced, that one hundred is the utmofi that could be mattered in the whole empire. Thole pcrfbns who have been concerned in the trade to Tombut for. the laft twenty years, com- pute the value of the merchandizes tranfported annually thither from the empire of Morocco to amount to at leaft a million of hard dollars ; and the commodities received in return, fach as oftrich- feathers, ivory, gold daft, amber, and Guinea Haves, to ten millions 5 two thirds of which are carried to Algiers, Tunis, &c. The (laves are purchafed near Tombut, at a very cheap rate, there having been inirances of a iiac Negro boy being bought for fix pounds of fait. As a proof that Chriftians may proceed along the (hore by land from Guinea to Morocco, two French men, in the year 1781, came from Senegal to Morocco, and brought intelligence of fome forts having been taken from the Englifli on that river. It is, however, proper to remark, that they were provided with eicorts from one place to another. M 4 CHAP., 24B A TOUR TO MOROC C H A P. XII. SumtlU r. E M . Atttnda r.ce 0:1 I.- A L L A Z A R A . to LALLA BATOOM, Ik e&cf $uka*d.~ Jxtrod-uftiw to LALUA DO^YAW, tbs favourite wife .^/ />.';; r>/' /A?f Ad"Bt^iurt . *fc Ladies. />/v/j- t//" / ,.j HAREM. Opinion cf aleSex*InjperQr*s Lbil- ..' Situation cf the Female TTROM the nnfocc ' r orts which I had * ra.ide for tlvj pur -procuring my dif- patches, I Lad bcg:in t:o reconcile mylcif to the idea of remaining a prifoncr at Morocco/ v/hen, to my great iurpr:/:c ? at the expiration of a month from the time of the princes departure, his Moorifh n;ajcfty fent to me in particular hafte to repair to the palace. Upon receiving this meffoge my befl hopes v;ere c:;cited. I naturally expefled an immediate eman cipation, as it is neceflhry that every ftn; lei ice the emperor previous to his clcpa: : I (ie\v to the palace with all the alacrity v inch an expectation was certain to infpire. Whar then \v;is my ailoniiliment-, when, upon my arrival , a meffenger brought orders from . rnpcror, the purport of which was, that I -fhould inimediately exninine one of liiii fultanas \vho \7.\z iucl .1 k: the aitcninooii return A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 249 with proper medicines, and at the fame time report my opinion of her cafe to his rnajefty. It is difficult to fay whether difappointment or furprize were the predominant emotion in my mind on receiving this order. After the prejudices which from his diflike to the Englifh, and his ignorance of the effects of internal medicines, the emperor was known to have entertained againft me, and after having detained me at Morocco for fuch a length of time, with no apparent view but that of manifefting his contempt of me as an En- gliihman, it appeared unaccountable that he fhouid give orders for my adrniflion into the Harem 3 where in addition to the former objections, there were alfo fome Hill ftronger in the eyes of the Moors ; as the admiflion of one of our fex into that facred depofitory of female charms, was alrooft unprecedented, and I be! eve totally fo with refpect to the Harem of the emperor, Whatever might be the motives with his impe rial majefty for the violation of Moorifh decorum In this inftance, I did not conceive I had much reafon to rejoice at the event. I had already expe rienced too much ingratitude from the prince, as well as too much ungenerous treatment from the emperor, to encourage me to undertake any future ecr;iigement of the kind in this country; and the aides and prejudices which from experience 1 knew I had to encounter, when employed in my profeffional line by the Moors, united to the uncer tainty of removing the lady's complaint, rendered it altogether not very fafe to adminifter my advice under iuch disadvantageous circurnilances ; and ihat cunoilty which would naturally be e M 5 cited 250 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. cited in mcli perfons on fuch an occafion, was not fufficient to reconcile me to this new employment. . Unfortunately in this dilemma I had very little time allowed me to determine, fmce the mefTengtr was waiting to conduct me to the gate of the Harem. My embarrailment, however, continued only for a flier t period; for I foon recollected that it was in vain to oppofe the emperor's order. I therefore deferred giving a decifive anfwer till I had iecn my pr.tient, and made myfelf fully ac quainted with the nature of her complaint. The public and ufual entrance to the Harern is through a very large arched door-way, guarded on the outfide by ten body guards, which leads to a lofty hall, where the captain or Alcaide, with a guard of fcventeen eunuchs, -are polled. No perfon is admitted into this hall, but thofe who are known to have bufinefs in the Harem. The emperor's order being delivered on the outfide of the door to the Alcaide, I was imme diately, with my interpreter, conducted into the Harem by one of the Negro eunuchs. Upon en tering the court into which the women's apart ments open> I difcovered a motley group of con cubines, domeftics, and negro (laves, who were variously employed. Thofe of the flrft defcription had formed thernfelves into circles, feated on the ground in the open court, and were apparently engaged in congelation. The domeftics and ilaves were partly employed in needle-work, and partly in preparing their cufcofoo. My appearance in the court, however, foon attracted their attention, and a considerable number of them upoaobferving r,ie. i '. with the means by which I had bcea A TOUR TO 1MOKCCC3, &C. 25! been admitted into the Harem, retreated with the utmoft precipitancy into their apartments -, while others more courageous approach ed, and enquired of my black attendant who I was, and by whofe orders he had brought me thither. The moment it was known that I was of the medical profedlon, parties of them were detached to inform tiiofe who had fled, that I was fent in by order of the emperor to attend Lalla Zara, my intended patient's name, and requeuing of them to come back and look at the Chriftian. Seranio Tibib ! Chriftian Doclor ! refounded from one end of the Harem to the other; and in the courfe ot a few minutes I was fo completely furrounded by women and children, that I was unable to move a fmgle ftep. Every one of them appeared felicitous to find out fome complaint on which fhe might confult me, and thofe who had not ingenuity enough to invent one, obliged me to feel their pulfe ; and were highly difpleafed if I did not evince my ex cellence in my profefHon by the difcovery of ibme ailment or other. All of them fcemed fo "urgent to be attended to at the fame time, that while- 1 was feeling the pulfe of one, others were behind, pulling my coat and entreating me to examine their complaints, while a third party were upbraid-, ing me for not paying them the fame attention. Their ideas of delicacy did not at all correipond with thofe of our European ladies, for they exhi bited the beauties of their limbs and form with a degree of freedom that in any other country would have been thought indecent 5 and then* GQHTverfaiTiOQ '.van coually unrelt rained. This A- TOUR TO MOROCCO, &c. This apparent laxity of conducl in the Moonlit ladies does not proceed from a depravity in prin ciple. As the female iex in this country are not entrufted with the guardianfliip of their own honour, there is no virtue in referve. A depraved education even ferves to corrupt inftead of to reftrain them. They are not regarded as rational or moral agents; they are only confidered as be ings created entirely to befubfervient to the pleafure of man. To excite the paffions, and to do and lay every thing which may inflame a licentious ima gination, become therefore rieceffary accomplifh- Hients in the female fex, and their manners and condudt naturally aiTume a call totally different from thole women in a more refined and more liberal ftate of ibciety. In thofe inftances to which I refer, they were net confcious of trefpaffing the limits of decency; and in others they manifefted a iingular attention to what they conceived to be decorum. When I requefted to fee the tongues of fjme patients who complained of feverifti fymp- torns, they refufed to comply, confidering it as inconfiftent with their modefty and virtue; fome of them indeed laughed at the fingularity of the rc'qnefl, and attributed it either to an impertinent curiofity, or an inclination to impofe on their un- clerflandings. As the number of my patients continued to in n-tale rather than to dirninlfn, there appeared but ; oi an ii)trodi;Ciion to the fbltana Zara, whcm I was rfi diredted to attend, in any r ti.ne. The eunuch, however, v-t:ariccl 01. t Vv r i-h v/alfm^, exerted ail the vigour of aiu!.;C: . ural effeminacy would admit A TOUR TO MOB.OCCOj-&C. 253 admit of in obliging them to difperfe, and which was fo far effectual at lead: as to allow me room to pafs, though this female croud flill followed me till I had nearly reached the lady's apart ment. ' From the firil court into which I had been in troduced, I paflecl through two or three limilar, till I at length arrived at the chamber of my intended patient. I was here detained a little time in the court, till my patient and her apartment were ready to receive me. Upon my entrance I'found the lady fitting crofs-legged on a mattrefs placed upon the floor, and covered with fine linen, with twelve white and negro attendants, feated on the floor alfo, in different parts of the chamber. A round cufhlon was placed for me next to the lady, on which 1 was defired to be feated. I fhould have remarked", that, contrary to my expectations, I found that none of the emperor's women dif- guifed their faces in the manner which I had ex perienced in the prince's Harem, but I faw them all with the fame familiarity as if I had been intro duced into the hotife of an European. Lalia Zara*, who was of Moorifh parents, was about eight years ago remarkable for her beauty and accomplifnments ; on which account fhe was then in every refpeci the favourite wife of the emperor. So dangerous a pre-eminence could not he enjoyed, without exciting the jealoufy of thoie females whofe charms were Ids confpicuous; and who, befides the mortification of having a lefs ^ Lallci, fignifies lady or miftrefs, but is only applied in tLivS couniry o the iuhuwas, fli are 254 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. {hare of beauty, experienced alfo the dlfgra. being defer ted by their lord. Determined to effect her ruin, they contrived to mix fome poifbn (mod probably arfenic) in her food, and conducted the deteftable plot fimilar in form to a loofe great coat without fleeves, hanging nearly to the feet, and is made either of filk and cotton or gold tiiTue. A fa:h of fine linen or cotton folded is tied gracefully round the wnift and its extremities fall below the knees. To this fafh two broad ftraps are annexed, and paffing over each arm over the fhoulders form a crofs on the bread, and to that part of it which paflfes between the breaft and (boulder of each arm is fixed a gold tortoife, carelefsly fufpending in fronf a gold chain. Over the whole drefs is extended a broad filk band of the Fez manufacture, which furrounds the waift, and completes the drefs, ex cept when they go abroad, and' then they in veil themfelves in a carelefs manner with the Haick. The hair is plaited from the front of tile he a. I backwards in different folds, which hang locie behind, and at the bottom are all fixed together with twilled filk. Over the heads they \vear a. long piece of filk about half a yard wide, which they tie clofe to their head, and fuffer the long ends, which are edged with twifted filk, to hang behind in an eafy manner nearly to the ground. The remainder of the head-dreis is completed by a common filk handkerchief which furrounds the head like a woman's cfofe cap, * differing frptti ft only by being fixed in a full bow behind irifte'ad of in front. At the upper part of each ear hangs a fmall gold ring half open, which, has at one end a clufter of precious ftones, fufficient nearly to fill up the vacancy occafioned by the opcnhK.; of the ring. At the tip, or lower part of the ear, is likewife fufpended a broad and folid which is fo large that it reaches N 274 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. neck, and which, as well as the other, has a clu- ter of precious ft ones, in proportion to the fize of the ring. The ladies wear on their fingers feveral fmall gold rings, fet with diamonds or other pre cious ilones, and on the wrifts broad and folid gold bracelets, fometimes alfo fet with precious ftones. Their necks are ornamented with a great variety of bead and pearl necklaces. Below thefe a gold chain fur rounds the neck, and fufpends in front a gold ornament. Like the men, the Moorifh women wear no ftockings, but ufe red flippers, curioufly embroi dered with gold which they take off when they enter their rooms. Immediately above the ankle, each leg is furronnded with a large folid gold ring, which is narrow in front, but very broad behind. The ladies paint their cheeks of a deep red, and (lain their eye-lids and eye-brows with a black powder which I apprehend to be antimony. It is a branch of artificial beauty in this country, to produce a long black mark on the forehead, another on the tip of the nofe, and feveral others on each cheek. The chin is Gained of a deep red, and thence down to the throat runs a long black flripe. The infkle of the hands, and the nails,, are fhined of a deep red x fo deep indeed, that in moil lights it borders on black ; and the back of- the hands have feveral fancy marks of the fame colour. The feet are painted in a fimilar manner with the hands. I feldcm obferved in the Harem the women at any employment but that of forming themfelves into different circles for the purpofe of converfa- tion,. A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 2*]$ tion, fometlmes in the open courts, at others in the different apartments. As they are not permit ted to enter the mofques, they pray at the ap pointed times in their own chambers. The Moors, indeed, entertain the prejudice which is commonly attributed to the Muflulmen in general, that the female fex are altogether an inferior fpecies of ani mals, merely formed to be flaves to the pleaiures of men, whofe falvation is confequently not of fa much importance ; and with this fentiment the conduct of the men towards them in every inftance correfponds. The Moors like wife affign other reafons for not permitting their females to enter their places of worlhip: they aflTert that it would be not only contrary to the cuftom which prevails in the country, of not allowing the fexes to meet together in any particular fpot, but it might alfo, by creating loole and improper ideas, draw off" the attention from their devotion. The women have their Talbas as well rs the men their Talbs, Thefe perfons who are either wives or concubines, juit as it happens, and whufe principal qualifications appear to be reading or writing, teach the younger part of the Harem to repeat their prayers, and the older females they iiiilrucl in the laws and principles of their religion. All the emperor's daughters, and the children of his concubines, as foon as they were of a pro per age, were lent to Tafilet, where they finished their education, and by intermarrying with the defendants of his ancestors they ferved to people that extraordinary city extraordinary on this ac count, that the inhabitants of it are all Sharifs, or tbe fuppoied lineal defendants of Mahomet, and 2j6 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 2 re mo ft of them collaterally or othenvife related to the prefent royal family of Morocco. Muley Ifhmael, who, as I before obferved, was grand father to the late emperor, had three hundred chil dren at Tafilet, and their defendants are now fnppofed to amount to nine thoufand who all live in the fame place. The fons of the emperor's wives are confidered as princes, who have each an equal claim to the empire, and as fnch are always refpefted. If they have not difobliged their father, they are generally appointed to the government of fome of the pro vinces, where, in the capacity of Bafhaws, their principal objecl: is the accumulation of riches. The reader will have obferved, that I referved my obfervations on the female part of fociety in this country, till I had given fuch a general ac count of the Harem as might ferve for a proper introduction to that part of my fubject. By this arrangement I have relieved myfelf from the tedi- oufneis of repetition, and my readers from that obfcurity which naturally enfues when information is imparted in a disjointed ftate. A few obferva tions will ferve to complete the description. The Moorlfh women may be divided into two clafics; the black or negro women, and the white. The fir ft are cither ilaves or have been fo for merly ; and from their fervices, or through the favour of their proprietors have obtained their freedom. Thefe women have all the characters, both with refpcct to difpofhion, features, and complexion, peculiar to the country from which they are brought. Many of them arc in the fitu-- fition of concubines, and others in that of domcf- ilcs. Their male children are all brought up to A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 27) ferve in the army of the emperor. To this clafs may be added the mulattoes, both male and fe male, who are the produftion of a Moor and a Negro woman, and are confequentl} very nume rous in this empire , but as they differ but little in character from the Negroes, and are only dif- tinguifhed from them being indulged with their freedom, I (hall p'afs them over without any fur ther obfervations. Thofe of the female fex who may be properly confidered as natives of the country, are of a white, or rather a fallow complexion. From the very limited fphere in which they are allowed to aft, and the contempt in which they are held as members of ibciety, their characters admit of very little of that variety which diftinguifhes the Eu ropean women. Happy, perhaps, it is for them, that the fun of knowledge has never beamed upon their gloomy prifons, fince it could only ferve to enlighten them to a fenfe of their own mifery, difgrace, and fervitude ! Happy is that accommo dating power, which providence has vouchfafed to human-kind, which adapts them to their feveral firuations ! and happy it is that the information of mankind is generally fuch as fuits the fphere in which they are deftined to aft ! Educated with no other view than for the fen- fual purpofes of their matter, or hufband, the chief objeft of the female fex -of this country is to ad- minifter to his pleafure, and by the moft abjeft fubmiflipn to alleviate the rigours of that fervitude to which they are doomed. When in the prefence . of their defpot, both wives and concubines are obliged to manifeft the fame refpeft as his com mon 278 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. mon (laves; and though all are not confined clofely to their houies as is cuftomary in the emperor's Harem, yet when they do go out they are obliged to be extremely circumfpeft in concealing their faces, and cautious in every part of their de meanour. Women of diftindlion, however, are very feldom allowed to go abroad-, it is only thofe of the loweft clafs which are ufually feen in the ftreets, and even thefe are fo difguifed and wrap ped up in their Haicks, that they appear more like a bale of cloth put in motion, than a human form. If they happen to meet an European in the country, at a time when no Moor is in fight,, they feldom mifs the opportunity of difpJaying their features, by throwing the Haick on one fide, and even to laugh and converfe with him, though al ways with the utmoft rifk, as the eye of jealoufy, it is well known, never (lumbers. If an European or a Jew (hould be caught in a clandeftine connexion with a Moorifli woman, he is obliged to become a convert to the Mahometan faith, or his life would be forfeit , and the wo man, I was informed, is punifhed either by burn ing or drowning, though I cannot fay I ever knew an inftance of that dreadful fentence being put in execution. A man indeed mud; have uncommon addrefs, arid no fmall (hare of caution, to carry on an intrigue of that kind, though on the part of the women of this country he will feldom want for encouragement. It muft, however, be allowed, that the means which the Moors employ for the prevention of intrigues, very often tend to the encouragement of them.. A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 279 them. By drefling themfelves in the female habit, men may very eaflly pafs the ftreets unobferved, as they may reft allured they will not be addrefTed or even looked at by the Moors , and if they con trive to call at the houfe when the mailer is from home, they need be under no apprehenfions of being dete&ed when he returns. If he fees a flrange woman's flippers at the doors of his Ha rem, he concludes it is a female neighbour, and never approaches the room till the flippers are removed. The drefs of the opulent females among the Moors, is fimilar to that of the emperor's ladies, differing only in the value of the materials. Thofe of the inferior clafs wear linen drawers, and over them a coarfe woollen frock, tied round the waifl with a band. They plait the hair in two folds, from the upper part of the head all the way down behind, wearing over it a common handkerchief tied clofe to the head, and when, they go out they wear the Haick. CHAP. 280 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. CHAP. XIII. Duplicity of the Emperor. Plan of the Author to cffeft his Emancipation unfuccefsfuh Application through another Channel Curious Prefent fronf the Emperor. Striking Inflame of 'Tyranny. Perfonal Applica tion to the Emperor. Traits of Defpotifm. The Em peror's D if patches obtained. -Csmmiffions from the La dies in the Harem. Anecdotes of an Englifh Mulatto. Journey to BULU A.NE Defcript'ion of that Fortrefs. Singular Mode of paj/ing the River. Arrival at SALLEE at TANGIER, Prefent from the Emperor* Return to Gibraltar. HP EN days having elapfed fmce my ffrftattcnd- * ance on Lalla Zara, the emperor defired my patient to acquaint him what effect the medicines had produced , and being informed that fne was apparently in a fbte of recovery, he fent into the Harem a doubloon piece, wrapped up in one cor ner of a filk handkerchief, and ordered the lady to prefent me with it as a compliment for the fer- vice 1 had already rendered her, accompanied with fplendid promifes, if I fucceeded in reitoring her to perfect health. Littie reflection was necefTary to convince me, that thefe manoeuvres had an aim and tendency very different from that of fulfilling the emperor's engagements relative to my return. It required, therefore, fome confideration to determine, whe ther it would be mcft prudent to continue my at tendance, or exert myfelf immediately with re doubled vigour to accomplilh. my emancipation. The A- TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 28 I The latter mode of conduft I refolved upon, for the following reafons. In the firft place, I had been abfent from the garrlfon much longer than was originally intended by government ; it was, therefore, impoffible to fay how far the protraction of my refidence in in Morocco might interfere with the arrangements of my fnperiors, or affeft the fervice. Secondly, every European with whom I converfed, or cor- reipondeJ, advifed me by all means to embrace the firft opportunity of returning , fince, though my patient was for the prefent in a recovering ftate, yet, from the caprice and ignorance of the Moors, there was fome reafbn to apprehend that fhe might tire of her medicines , and confidering the matter in the moft favourable point of view, fuppofmg (he could be relieved entirely from her complaint, it was not improbable that the women, who had been the original occafion of her illnefs, upon obferving her recovery, might with the fame diabolical malignity which induced them to ad- minifler the firft dofe of poifon, be inclined to avail themfelves of my attendance, and injure her conftitution a fecond time : while all the ill confe- quences would infallibly be attributed to my treat ment. The age and infirmities of the emperor alfo rendering my fituation very precarious, deter mined me to employ the earlieft opportunity in effefting my efcape j and the following was the plan which appeared to promife the moft probable iuccefs. I told my patient that I had brought with me very little more medicine than was fufficient for the cure of Muiey Abfulemj and that thofe which I had A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C* I had adminiftered to her were the few which had not beet) ufed ; that as they muft necefTarily foon be exhaufled, and as my attendance on her with out medicines could anfwer no purpofe whatever, I would recommend her for her own fake, to ad- vife the emperor to fend me to Gibraltar for a frefh fupjjy. " Ah !" exclaimed the lady, " there " is n occafion for your going, the emperor can " write to the conful for them." For a reply of this kind I was not wholly unprepared ; and as I had found it necefTary to act a part on this occafion, I determined to go through with it, and reluctantly to play the empiric, by informing my patient that the compofition of thefe medicines \vas known to no perfon but myfelf j and therefore to write for them would be totally uielefs. This flatement ap peared unanswerable, and my plan was fo far crowned with fuccefs. An application, on my account, was immediately made to the emperor by all the principal women, whom Lalla Zara had engaged in her fervice for that purpofe. The emperor, however, whofe difcernment had been excellent in his youth, and whofe intelleand ports j a green Dutch box. For Lalla Talba, a prieftefs, a handfome pre- fent, which fhe leaves to my tafte and choice. For the daughter of Muley Hafem, a ma hogany cheft with two drawers j a flafk of laven der water. For Lalla Zara's nurfc, twelve large red beads. For two of the eunuchs, each a filver watch. Thefe commifEons may perhaps appear too tri fling to deferve infertion; but I have brought them forward to the reader only becaufe thefe little circnmftances frequently difplay the peculiar tafte, the manners, the genius of a country, much bet ter than thofe weighty and important tranfaftions in which the paffions common to human nature muft be interefted, and in which, of confequence, all people in fimilar circumftances muft aft and fcel alike. It would have required no trifling fum of money to purchafeall thefe articles; and even when that obftacle was removed, there would a rife one ftill greater from the difficulty of tranfportation in this country. As Morocco is an inland city, I was entirely precluded from the fafeft and eafieft of carriages-, and by land, many of the articles were focumberfome and weighty, that in the bad roads it would have been impracticable to employ mules. I llioiild therefore have been reduced to the necef- fity of hiring camels, the expence of which, joined A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 289 joined to that of the commiffions, would con- fequently have been enormous. Having fupplied Lalla Zara with the few me dicines which remained, and taken my final leave of the Harem, my next objeft was to find out a new interpreter, fince the perfon whom I had procured at Mogodore, had it not in his power to accompany me to to Tangier. In his place I fixed upon a mulatto, who was born a ChrifKan in one of the Englifh Weft India Iflancls, and up on coming to Mogodore as a feaman in an Engli/h veflel, was immediately on account of his com plexion, claimed by the Moors as a countryman. They committed him immediately to prifon, and, by the influence of hard ufage, at length compelled him to become a convert to their religion. This man, who is between fixty and feventy years of age, has been in the country about ieven years, and was occafionally employed in the public works by the late emperor. He can fpeak the English, French, Spaniih, Italian, and Arabic languages, but the Englifh is moft familiar to him. The horie prefented to me by Muley Abfulera I mounted myfelf, and made my interpreter ride thofe of the emperor alternately, that I might give them every poflible chance of reaching Tangier alive, in 'cafe I could not difpofe of them on the road. Thefe, with three horfe ibldiers allowed by the emperor, two mules for my baggage, and a muleteer to take charge of them, formed the whole of my fuite on the journey. We departed from Morocco on the iath of February 1790, and in three days arrived at the onle of Buluane, which is a joiirney of about O eighty A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. eighty miles, confifting of an uninterrupted feries of wild uncultivated heath. This caftle was the firft piece of architecture which offered itfelf to our view fince we left Morocco 5 the country be ing very thinly inhabited by only a few Arabs, who live in tents. In thefe Douhars or encamp ments, I endeavoured, on the fcore of fafety, nightly to pitch my tent. The caftle is fituated on the fummit of a very kigh and rugged hill, forming on its Northern fide a fteep precipice, at the bottom of which runs a deep and rapid river, named the Morbeya, which I had previouily pafTed at its termination in the ocean at Azamore. As a piece of architecture, this caftle has no recommendation but the ftrength of its walls : it is inhabited by fome Negroes who were banifhed to this place, at the time when Sidi Mahomet thought proper to difband a confider- able portion of his black troops ; intending, by that means, to prevent their raifing a mutiny or rebellion in the country, to which, as I have inti mated, they are always inclined. To difpofe of them in this manner, therefore, was found policy, as, though they were out of the way of mifchief for the prefent, they might eafily be embodied upon any prefling emergency. The eminent fituation of this fortrefs, the fteep and rugged precipice, the depth and rapidity of the river below, with the wildnefs of the neigh bouring country, fill the mind with a mixture of admiration and fublime horror. But what attrac ted my attention more than any other circum- itance, was the mode in which they pafs this dan gerous river. At Azamore, Sallee, Mamora, Larache, A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 2pl Larache, &c. where the rivers are too deep to be forded, the traveller is ferried over ; and yet at this part, though at no very great diftance from any of the above places, the people are totally ignorant what kind of a machine a boat is. What is frill more remarkable, the firft people of the country who are obliged to pals this river in their way from Morocco to all the Northern provinces, and who are as well acquainted with the ufe of boats as the Europeans, are content to fubmit to the crazy fubftitute which they find here, rather than impart to the inhabitants of the caftle this eafy piece of information. The mode in which thefe people crofs the river, ferved to remind me of a puerile amufement, in which moll: boys at one period or other have taken delight. A raft is formed of eight fheep- fkins, filled with air, and tied together with fmall cords; a few (lender poles are laid over them, to which they are fattened, and this is the only means ufed at Buluane to conduct travellers with their baggage over the river. As ibon as the raft is loaded, in other words, as foon as it is charged with as much weight as it will bear without finking, a man ftrips, jumps in to the water, and fwims with one hand, while he pulls the raft after him with the other; and in the mean time, a fecond places himfelf behind, pniliing and fwimming in a fimilar manner. The current at firft carries the apparatus a confiderable \vay down the river, but by the activity of the fwimmers it is fpeedily extricated, and its contents as quickly landed. The horfes, mules, &c. having every article removed from their backs, are driven O 2 ID. A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. ' in a body to the water fide, where the Moors im mediately get behind them, and by the violence of their (houts fo completely terrify the animals, that one or two of them fpeedily take to flight, and fet the example, by fwimming, to the reft, when they immediately follow. Four days after leaving this river, we arrived at Sallee, which is about a hundred and ten miles from Buluane, and one hundred and ninety from Morocco, without the occurrence of a circumflance worth relating; the country proving a continuance of the fame uncultivated heath as far as Menfooria, which has been defcribed in a former part of this Tour. Sallee being the firft town I had feen fmce my departure from Morocco, which was feven days, I was happy to avail myfelf of my former intro- dudlion. to the French conful, and remain with him a couple of nights. After this agreeable re laxation, I departed for Tangier, where I arrived on the 26th of February. As it was evident that the horfes which had been prefented to me by the emperor, were not worth the expence of exportation, and indeed feemed fcarcely able to encounter the journey, I took every oportunity that offered on the road to difpofe of them, but my efforts were not attended with fuccefs; and by the time I arrived at Mamora, they were fo completely tired, that they would certain ly have died had I nfed them another day. I there fore found it necefTary to leave them in the care cf a Venetian gentleman who refided at Mamora, with a requefl to difpofe of them in the belt man ner he could; and, as I did not like to lofe the advantage A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C advantage of the order for embarkation, which is always to be confidered as very valuable, fmce no horfes are exported but by an exprefs order of the emperor, under his fign manual, I requefted this gentleman to purchafe for me two of the belt that were to be procured in the province, and to lend them after me to Tangier*, but they unfortu nately did not arrive in time. In about a fortnight after my arrival at Tangier, nn order came down from the emperor, defiring the governor to purchafe at the expence of his royal treafury, two oxen, ten fheep, ten milch goats with their kids, a hundred fowls, and a large proportion of fruit and vegetables of every defcrip- tion. Thefe articles were to be prefented to me as from the emperor, in return for my attendance on Lalla Zara; and I was to be allowed per- miffion to embark them free of all duty, for Gibraltar. The fame order brought like wife a requeft from the emperor, that I would en gage to fend my patient a frefh fupply of me dicines. On the ayth of March I arrived at Gibraltar. It would be trifling with the reader to defcribe my feelings on the firft view of a fpot, protedled by Englifh laws, and decorated by English manners. My fenfations, indeed, may be more ea.fi ly con ceived than they can be exprefled. Let it fuffice to fay, that no wretch, efcaped from the gloomy horrors of a dungeon, could experience more lively pleafure on firft contemplating the light of day, than I felt on the firft view of an Englifh garrifon. 3 As 294 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. As the communication between the garrifon and Barbary was not open at the time of my arrival, the prefent of the emperor proved more valuable than I at fir ft conceived it. It is obvious, how ever, that its amount, and indeed the total of all which I received during my refidence in the coun try, could fcarcely be' more than adequate to my expences , much lefs could it be confidered as a compenfation for the great rifle, the trouble, and the anxiety which I had encountered. I had been under the neceffity of drawing upon the conful for confiderable fiims, befides what I received through other channels; fo that I returned from my expedition with my curiofity fatisfied, my mind, I truft, in fome degree enlightened, as far as the obfervation of a different country, and dif- tvrent manners, ferves to improve our flock of knowledge; but, in a pecuniary view, I certainly returned very little better than I went*. * It is certainly incumbent on me to add, that my fer- vices in Barbary have fince been handfomely rewarded in the appointment of Surgeon to the ioth or Jamaica Regi men t of Light Dragoons. A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 295 CHAP. XIV. Return of the Author to Barbary. TETUAN Town and Buildings Port. Prefent State of the Empire of MOROCCO under MULEY YAZID. Anecdotes rela tive to his acceffion. MULEY YAZID Jent to MECCA by his Father his Return takes Refuge in a Sanc tuary. State of the late Emperor. Death of SIDI MAHOMET. DiJJentiGn among the Princes. MULEY HAS EM proclaimed Emperor retraces his P ret en* thns. Anecdote relative to MULEY ABDRAHAMAN curious Letter from him to MULEY YAZID. His Submi/jion. Peaceable EJlabli/hmeni of MULEY YA- 1 ID. Depredations of the Arabs, Perfecution of the yews. Death of ALCAIDE ABBAS. Char a tier of MULEY YAZID. Death of MULEY YAZID. SOON after my arrival at Gibraltar, I was pre vailed upon to digefl and arrange the notes and obfervations which I had made during my refidence in Barbary, and to publifh propofals for a nar rative of my Tour. In thefe propofals, having engaged to relate the particulars of the emperor's death, and of his fons fucceffion, and being defirous of procuring every information that could ferve to complete my account of the empire of Morocco, I obtained leave of abfence for a (hort time from the garrifon for the purpofe, and was induced from that motive to pny a '.econd vifit to Tangier,. It would be ufelefs to detain the reader with any further defcription of that place, I (hail therefore only obferve, that after diligently collecting all the information political or otherwife^ that I could O 4 procure, A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. procure, I availed myfelf of the opportunity of vifitipg Tetuan, which the new emperor had once more opened to the refort of Chriftians; and which I had long, with much earneftnefs, defired to fee. The city of Tetuan is very pleafantly fituated at the opening of the Straits into the Mediter ranean; it is built on a rifmg ground between two ranges of high mountains, one of them forming a part of the leffer Atlas. It lies about ten leagues to the Eaft of Tangier, and commands a very beautiful profpeft of the Mediterranean, from \vhich it is diftant about five miles; and the valley near which it is fituated is variegated with gardens, plantations of olives, and vineyards, and is orna mented with a river, which takes its courfe di rectly through its centre. The ban en and gloomy appearance of the lofty mountains, which feem almoft to project over each fide 'of the town, contrafted with the beautiful verdure with which it is immediately furrounded, the diftant view of the fea, and the ferpentine dire<5lion of the river, which is navigable for foiall craft as far as Marteen, afford altogether a fcene in the higheft degree piclurefque and romantic. The town itfelf is of very confiderable extent, and its walls are flanked in different parts with fquare forts, on which a few fmall pieces of ordnance are mounted. This fortification, how ever, is merely calculated to defend the place againft an attack from the Arabs, who, when difcontented, are ready to plunder every riling Y/hich is expofed to their depredations ; but it A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. could by no means refift the exertions of a regular army. Befides thefe fmall forts, there is a fqtiare caflle on the fbmmit of the hill, on which twenty-^ four pieces of cannon are mounted; though this is alfo but a weak and ill-conftrufted piece of for tification, yet from its elevated fituatioti it com mands the town in every diredtion. The ftreets of Tetuan are very narrow, filthy,, and many of them are nearly arched over by the houfes. Of the intention of thefe projections I could form no conception, unlefs they are meant, by keeping off the rays of the fun, to render the ftreets cooler in the fummer feaibn. If fo, it muft on the other hand be allowed, that they alfo prevent a free circulation of air, which, in a hot climate, and in ftreets fo narrow and filthy, muft be greatly injurious to the health of the in habitants. Though the houfes have a very mean appearance from the ftreets, yet their apartments in general are roomy, tolerably convenient, rind well fur- nifhed; and, contrary to thofe, of Tangier, are built two ftories high. The El'caifTeria, or fair for the difpofal of goods, is filled with fhops, con-, taining a great variety of very valuable articles, both of European and their own manufacture. From Fez they procure the articles of that place, as well as thofe of Tunis, Algiers, Alexandria,. and Guinea. From Spain and Gibraltar they im port thofe of Eu-pope, for which they give in re turn provifions and fruit of every defcription; of all the towns in the empire, therefore, Tetuan may now be confidered as next to Fez in commer cial importance, O 5 Aa 2p8 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. As the Moorifh inhabitants are principally mer chants on a large fcale, they are opulent, much more polifhed and accefTible to Grangers than thofe of inoft of the other towns in this empire. Their complexions are generally fair, and they are alto gether a well- looking people. On our firft arrival, from the novelty of feeing Chriftians in the town after an exclufion of nearly twenty years, when we walked the ftreets the people univerially ran out of their houfes to look at us ; and a very con- iiderable body of them for fome time followed us wherever we went. They, however, by no means offered us any kind of inlult ; on the contrary, in deed, being informed that we were Englifh, they exprefled every mark of fatisfaclion, and many of them invited us to their gardens. The Moors were always partial to the Englifh in preference to every other European nation; they even pro- feffed their attachment at the very time when Sidi Mahomet was upon fuch ill terms with our court; and fmce Muley YazicT's acceffion, they have given the moil: unlimited fcope to the expreflion of their partiality. The Mofques of Tetuan are very large, nume rous, and appear to have by far a greater claim to magnificence, than thofe ia the other towns of the empire. The Jews in this place, previous to the late plunder by order of the new emperor, were weal thy; they live by themfelves in a feparate part of the town, where they are (hut out every night from the Moors; their women are remarkable for their clearnefs of complexion, and the beauty of their features. The A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. The port of Tetuan, is fituated at about two miles diftance from the fea, and is named Marteen; at this place there is, however, only a fingle houfe, which is ufed for the pnrpofe of collefting the cufloms. As the mouth of the river on which it is fituated, is now nearly choaked up with fand, it only admits of fmall craft; and even thefe can proceed no further than Marteen, where there are ufually a few of the emperor's row-gallies laid up to winter. The entrance. of the river is defended by a high and fquare tower, on which are mounted twelve pieces of cannon. This fortification might anfwer the purpofe of preventing the approach of fmall vefTels, but it is by no means calculated to oppofe any confiderable force. The bay, or more proper ly the road, of Tetuan, is formed by a high point of land which runs out into the fea a confiderable diftance to the Weft of the river, and will only Shelter vefTels in a wefterly wind; when it veers round to the Eafhvard, they are obliged to leave the bay, and retire to fome fafer port. During my continuance at Tetuan, I was not inattentive to the main object of this expedition: but* as the information which I could collect there, was not materially different from what I learned at Tangier, I |fhall blend the different accounts to gether, and haflen to gratify the reader's curiofity, as far as it lies in my power, concerning the fuc- ceeding events which took place in the empire, from the time of my leaving Morocco to the ac- ceffion and death of the late emperor. The infor mation which I obtained in confequence of my fecond vifit toBarbary, concerning the events that took 300 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. took place in the empire fubfequent to the death of Sidi Mahomet, and which I communicated in my firft edition, were the moft authentic and bell I could, in the ihort time I was in the country, procure; fince my return to Gibraltar, however, ieveral new circumflances have arifen, which have obliged me to alter both my original plan and fen- timents, and to carry on my narrative up to the death of Muley Yazid, whole conduft will now appear in a very different light to what it did at the firft view. The difficulty of obtaining an im partial account of the politics of a country in \vhich individuals are cautious to a degree how they exprefs their fentiments, will be deemed, I hope, a fufficient apology for my concifenefs on this fubjeft, as well as for any errors into which I inadvertently may have fallen. Muley Yazid, whofe mother is the offspring of an Englifn renegado, having incurred, a few years ago, his father's dilpleaiure, was lent on a pilgrimage to Mecca , the old emperor hoping, that by feeing the world he would, in a maturer age, reform, and be brought to a fenfe of his duty. Upon his approaching the frontiers, about four 3'ears ago, very ftrong and leemingly authentic reports were circulated, that he was on his march with a large army to dethrone his father. Thefe rumours could not fail to affeft the old man with confiderable anxiety, which, however, was after wards removed by the retreat of Muley Yazid to Tunis, without having made any hoftiie exertions whatever. In the fummer of 1789 the prince privately entered the country, and took refuge, as has al- alrcady A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 30! ready been intimated, in a fanftuary named Muley Abfulem. To this facrecl fpot, which is held in great veneration by the Moors, he retired as a place of fafety, without any intention of attacking his father, but merely to remain there in readinefs to declare himfelf, when the emperors death fhould take place, which, from his great age and infirmi ties, was evidently an event which could not be very diflant. Here he had no people about him, but three or four faithful attendants, and lived a ftridHy retired life, as far removed as can w r ell be conceived from that ftate and confequence which, are ufually affedted by princes. The old emperor, however, confidered his fon's intentions in a far different point of view, and ufed every ilratagem he could invent to draw him out of the fanftuary, but without fuccefs. At one time he wrote him word, that if he would come to court, he would reinftate him in his affections, and acquiefce in every demand he would make; or, if he chofe to leave the country, he would allow him fufficient to live in Turkey, or at Mecca, refpe&ed as a prince. On another occafion he threatened to attack him, pull down the fanftuary, and take him away by force. To all thefe letters, the prince, .by the prudent advice of his mother, with whom he kept up a private correfpondence, always evaded giving a pofitive anfwer. He allured his father of his affeftion, duty, and the purity of his intentions ; and, with out refufing to acquiefce in his wifties, fent fome excufe or other, explaining why he could not for^ the prefent comply, but promifing that he would toon. It 302 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. It is difficult to conjefture, whether the emperor would have ufed any violence towards his Ton, in cafe he had repaired to court. But it is well known, that the old monarch wifhed particularly, that Muley Abfulem might be his fucce/Tor, and that he had a private diflike to Muley Yazid; which were fufficient motives for the prudent conduft of the latter. The various reports that were circulated through the country, and particularly by the people at court, that Muley Yazid's intentions were hoftile to his father, and the great efteem in which he knew he was held by every individual in the country, made the emperor confider this fon as a very dangerous rival. I have already ib fully reprefented the ftate in which the emperor was at that period, that it would be only a repetition to expatiate on it at pre- fent. It will be fufficient to fay, that after three or four months unfuccefsful negotiations, the em peror fent down his fon Muley Hafem to Tangier, with au army of fix thoufand Negroes, which were to be reinforced by men drawn from the neighbouring provinces. The prince's direftions were, to offer a confiderable reward from the emperor to the perfons who had the care of the fandhiary, if they would fur render or expel Muley Yazid ; but if they refufed to comply with this requcft, he was to pull down the fanflnary, to feize Muley Yazid; and put every man, woman, and child, in the neighbourhood, to the fword. This ianguinary edift, however, the Sharifs had fpirit or enthufiafm enough to refift*, and Muley * See pag 156, where thia order of the em-peror refpe6t- A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 303 Hafem, not having fecured the confidence of his troops, was afraid to attack his brother. When they were encamped at Tangier, he did not even venture to deep among them, but at night always retired to the caftle. Difgufled with this fruitlefs attempt, the em peror called his fon a coward and a trifler; and immediately ordered Alcaide Abbas, the com mander in chief of the black army, and the beft officer in his fervice, to fupercede Muley Hafem in the command. Abbas carried a confiderablc reinforcement to the army already at Tangier, and was foon after joined by Muley Slemma, the late emperors full brother. Thefe two officers were direfted to encamp near the fanftuary, and wait there till joined by the emperor himfelf, with a con- iiderable army from the fouthward. For this pnrpofe the emperor left Morocco on the 29th March 1 790, and travelled on horfe- back. At the time he was paffing out at the gate of the city, the umbrella, which is always carried before the emperor, and in that country is the diftinftive mark of royalty, fuddenly broke in two, and the head was carried up in the air to a con- fiderable height before it fell. That the enfign of royalty fliould be in fo un accountable a manner broken, at the very moment of his departure on a journey, upon the fuccefs of which the fate of his empire feemed to de pend, was an accident which the emperor, who was remarkably fuperftitious, confidered as a ing Mnley Yazid, and the Sharif s reafons for not obeying it, aje fully explained. bad 304 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. bad omen, and he was certain portended fome calamity which was to befal him on the road. In confequence of thefe apprehenfions he became remarkably uneafy, penfive, and indifpofed ; and it is not improbable that this trifling circumfhmce, united to a previous weak frate of body and mind, contributed materially to haften his death. From the time of his departure till the fecoad of April he made unufually fhort ftages \ and on that day he ordered letters to be written to Muley Slemma and Alcaide AbtJas, in very ftrong terms arraigning the conduct of Muley Yazid, and diredling them to encamp at the bottom of the mountain on which the fanftuary was fituated, and to block it up in fuch a manner, that the prince fhould not find it poffible to make his efcape. Soon after the Ugning of thefe letters, he complained of a pain in his head and Aomach, and was ieized with vomiting. He contined, there fore, for the fpace of two days, without being able to proceed on his journey. On the 5th of April, as he found himfelf unable to ride on horfe- back, he ordered his people to place him in his litter, and commanded his own phyflcian to ac company him. When he halted on his journey, in. the evening, he was vifited by a large body of people, who came to pay their refpecls to him. For thefe adventitious viiitors the fovereign ordered a great feaft to be prepared; he tailed of every difh that was lent to them, and loon after complained of a pain in his bowels. On the following day he proceeded on his journey, and in the evening the pains of his head and ftomach were ccnfiderably increafed, and were fbonc A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 305 foon after followed by a vomiting of blood. He now began to exprefs a fenfe of his approaching difTolution; and, itisfaid, ordered a letter to be written to Muley Yazid, telling him, that he hoped God would forgive him, and blefs him; but, as the truth of this circumftance is difputed, I give it as a mere report. His uneafmefs concerning his fifuation did not prevent him from regularly and devoutly perform ing every part of his ablutions and prayers, and fulfilling every ceremony of his religion. On the two fucceeding days the emperor took very ihort journies, and, finding he had no profpecl of a recovery, he defired that his women would have him carried to Rabat, and buried in a vault which he had built in his palace for that purpofe. On the i ith of April, upon entering the town of Rabat, he expired in his carriage, without fpeaking a fingle word. The news of his death was not made public till the following day, when he was buried in his palace, agreeably to his orders, with all the honours ufually paid to fuch per- fonages. The death of Sidi Mahomet was certainly a moft fortunate event for the people of the Northern provinces, and particularly for thofe who had manifefled any attachment to Muley Yazid. His intention, indeed, was no lefs than the total ex tirpation of all the inhabitants; and it is impofGble to forefee where his cruelties might have termi nated. On the other hand, it was not the intention of Muley Yazid to come to any engagement with his father; therefore, as the emperor approached* he 306 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. he would have retired, till he had got beyond the boundaries of his fathers dominions. Sidi Mahomet, when he died, was in the Sift year of his age, and the 33d of his reign. His character has already occupied fo large a portion of thefe pages, that it would be entirely fuperfluous to make any additions. It is well known that, a few months previous to his death, he was thoroughly convinced how greatly he had fallen a dupe to Spanifh intrigues. By bribing the minifters, and obfcuring the mental eye of the fovereign by large and repeated pre- fents, the court of Spain procured leave to export great quantities of corn free of duty, the cuftoms of which, at a moderate computation, would have brought him in five times the value of the prefents he received. This indeed was not the only incon venience which the country fuffered through this imprudent conceffion; for the drought had been fo exceilive, the preceding year, that a fcarcity of corn had already taken place, and occafioned an univerfal murmur among the people: fo that had the exportation of that article been allowed a little time longer, a general famine, and con- fequently an univerfal rebellion, mufl have taken place. Befides this, out of pique to the Englifh, the Spaniards engaged the emperor to refufe the fupplying of Gibraltar with provifions, by which another confiderable defalcation was made in his revenue. Latterly, however, the monarch was fo fenfible of thefe impofitions, that he raifed the duties upon thofe provifions and corn which the Spaniards exported, to fo immoderate a height, that A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 307 that they were obliged to fend home their veflels empty. Had he lived to this time, it is a matter of doubt, \vhether affairs with Spain would have ended only by increafing the duties; for he was ib entirely irritated by their conduct, that it is not improbable that a rupture between the two courts would have been the confequence. On the other hand, his differences with England, from the fame circum- Itances, would have been mod probably adjufted and fettled, perfectly to the fatisfaftion of our court, Indeed he had given directions for that purpofetwo days previous to his death. I have already mentioned that in this country the fucceffion to the empire, though reftrifted to the fame family, is not limited to any particular branch, but depends on the influence each of the princes may have in the country, and particularly on the army. The government may therefore be confidered as partly hereditary, and partly elec tive*. Wealth, however, is not the only means of obtaining this influence; for Muley Yazid, the late emperor, was the pooreft of the royal brothers. When the news of the emperor's death reached Muley Slemma and Alcaide Abbas, they certainly fell back with the army towards Sallee; but what ever they might have 'in view by fo doing, they * The Mahometan law particularly directs, and it is well binderficod by the more enlighcened part ,!" the Moors, that the elded fon, is the next heir to the throne; but owing to the influence of the black army, and the ignorance of the majority of the people, this circumftance in the em pire of Morocco is but feldom attended to. could 308 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, & and the perfons of the wives and daughters violated by the outrageous fbldiery, who indifcriminately ftrippcd them even of their clothes, and turned them naked into the ftreets. It is not po/Iible to paint in juft colours, the diftrefs and hardfhip that unfortunate race experienced for feveral days, till a conclufion was put to their perfections by an order from the emperor, who, in confequence of a pardon to the Jews, threatened death to every perfon who ftiould in any degree further moleft them. There were two perfons of this nation, of fome confequence, whom Muley Yazid marked out as particular objects of his revenge. The firft was a Jew, who, iu the charafter of Spanifh vice conful, had committed fome aft during the reign of Sidi Mahomet, which the new emperor confidered as having been inimical to his interefts. For this real or imaginary crime, the culprit was fufpended by a cord patted through the tendons of the lower part of the legs, with his head downwards; in which fituation, without any fuftenance, he Con tinued alive for near four days, when the emperor ordered his head to be taken off, by way of re lieving A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. lieving him from his mifery. The other perfon was Jacob Attal, who in a former part of the work has already been noticed as the favourite of Sidi Mahornet There is great reafon to believe that this young man, who poiTefled confiderable abili ties, was acceflary to his own unhappy fate, by his too bufy interference in politics, which occafion- ed him many enemies at court, who were now glad of feizing the oportunity of gratifying their re venge, by perfuading the emperor that he was one of thofe who, in the court of Sidi Mahomet, had been particularly inimical to him. Attal con- fcious of his danger, put himfelf under the pro- teftion of the Englifh conful, with an intention of accompanying that gentleman toTetnan, in hopes that a confiderable prefent of money, might in duce the emperor to treat him with fome lenity. Unfortunately, before this plan could be put in execution, an order for feizing Attal met the party on the road, upon which the unfortunate Jew v/as forced off his mule, (tripped of his drefs, and in an old Moorifli frock, and with a cord about his neck, was driven on foot with whips to Tetuan. Upon his arrival, he was immediately conduced to the emperor, who ordered both his hands to be cut off, in which ftate he continued three days in the greateft mifery, and then he was de capitated. Thefe are by no means the only inftances of cruelty that were exercifed upon the Jews. Thole of moft of the towns of the empire, were either plundered or obliged to pay the emperor a very heavy fine; and at Mequinez, and fome other peaces, feveral were put to cruel deaths^ and their A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 32 j their wives and daughter left to the mercy of the black troops, who treated them with thf^greateft indecencies. A third objeft of the emperor's perfonal revenge was Alcaide Abbas, his father's black general: with refpe6t to this officer, the emperor had two motives for punifhing him. In the firfl place, he v/as the commander of that very army which was intended for his own definition; and, in the fecond, upon his father's deceafe, inftead of fur- rendering the army to Muley Yazid, he with drew it to the Southward, and, it was fuppofed with an intention of fupporting Muley Slemma. Notwithftanding, however, this conduft on the part of Abbas, the emperor certainly would not have put him to death, had it not been at the par ticular requeft of his black army, whom at that time he did not wi(h to offend. Abbas, fully con- icious how much he was difliked by his troops, attempted to make his efcape to a fanftuary upon a very fwift horfe; but his horfe falling he was unluckily feized, and immediately carried before the emperor, with very heavy charges on the part of his ibldiers. After a hearing of the charges, the emperor fignified to the culprit that he might yet partake of his royal mercy, provided he would confine himfelf for two months to the fanftuary of Muley Abfulem. For this purpofe he fet off; but he was again feized by the foldiers, who brought him back to the emperor with flili heavier charges ; and the emperor, finding that the foliers were determined on his deflru&ion, with his own hands, by one blow of his fabre, divided his head in two, and he immediately expired. Abbas 324 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. Abbas was the beft officer in the emperor's Service, ;#nd never manifefted the flightefl: token of timidity, or condefcended to afk his life; on the contrary, when the emperor lifted up his iabre, he in a flern and undaunted manner looked his fovereign in the face, and died with the countenance and the tranquility of a hero. As his body had not received the emperor's pardon, it remained on the ground unburied, to the great nuifance of every perfon who pafTed that way. For fiich is the bar barous cuflcm of the country, that when a man is put to death by the emperor, or his order, his body cannot be buried without its firft receiving a for mal pardon from the emperor. Muley Yazid, long before his father's death, had threatened the life of the EfFendi. He had been a principal agent in exciting the father's hatred and prejudice againft his fon. A further caufe of the emperor's refentment, was the great im portion praftifed on his father by the Effendi refpe'&ing the corn bufmefs with the Spaniards, by which he had amafied a very confiderable fum of money in bribes and prcfents. Upon the emperor's death, the Effendi took refuge in a fanftuary, and, had he been wife, he would not have ventured abroad j but Muley Yazid having pofitively promifedto pardon him, he was induced to forfake his afylum. For ibrne time the new fovereign diflembled his intentions, and waited for a favourable oportunity to feize him. As foon as he was taken, he offered the emperor two hundred thoufand dollars to fpare his life; but the monarch haughtily replied, that he wanted not his money, and that he would not condefcend to 2 accept A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. 325 accept a bribe from a traitor. He then ordered his two hands to be cut off, in whicHjfete he fuf- fered him to remain for fome days, and then commanded him to be beheaded. One of his Hands was placed on the walls of Fez, and the other fent down to Tangier, and ordered to be nailed on the door of the Spanifh conful, to con vince that nation in what manner the emperor was difpofed to treat all the friends of the Spaniards. The emperor always, indeed, manifested an exclufive preference to the Englifn beyond all European nations, and on many other occafion?, evinced an inveterate diilike to the Spaniards. From the moment of his acceflion to the throne, he exprefled a difapprobation of the Spanifh mea- fures, during his father's reign; and threatened to revenge himfelf very fhortly on that country, The Spaniards, who have more reafon to wifh for peace, from their ports being fo contiguous to the emperor's, as well as from the immenfe fup- plies which they procure from his dominions, than any other nation, endeavoured to ward off the threatening ftorm, by very large and repeated prefents of money, and other valuable articles, to the emperor and his minifters. But this plan, which had been fo fuccefsful in the former reign, effected nothing in the prefent. Muley Yazid had, from his youth, been difregardful of money; and, indeed, in his contempt of wealth, had evtn ex-^ ceeded the boundaries of prudence; he had a lib conceived a very ftrong and very early predilection in favour of the Engliih. Notwithstanding thtib circ urn fiances, the Spaniards fiill continued to en- Q^ terrain. 926 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. tertain hopes of fuccefs in their negociations, till they hearcjjpf the death of the Effendi, their great friend andpatron, and of the infult offered to their court, by the Effendi's hand being nailed on their confui's door. Such an affront was fufficient to convince them, that war was inevitable: but they cfleemed it moft prudent to get their conful, and friars, out of the country, before they commenced hofHlities, and a frigate for this purpofe was dif- patched to Tangier. When they arrived there, they informed the governor, that they had on board a very valuable preient for the emperor, and defired that he would fend proper perfons to receive it. The conful and friars took this op portunity of coming on board; and the frigate, having fent off the Moors with the prefent, fet fail, and the next day captured two Moorifh gallies off Larache, in fight of the emperor, who was walking upon his terrace at the very moment. The valuable prefent which they carried, proved nothing more than huge bales of rags. Thefe repeated iniults were not calculated to conciliate the emperor; he confequently made im mediate preparations for the attack on ~euta, and foon after befieged it. But this garrifon proved too ftrongly fortified, both by nature and art, to render it poffible for the Moors to be fuccefs ful, unlefs aflifted by a naval power, and the emperor, after a fruitlefs fiege for fever al months with a very confiderable army, was obliged to retire. The iniults offered by the Spaniards in the decep tion they employed to procure the releafe of their conful and friars, and afterwads- in the capture of the two Moorifh veffels, made fuch an impreffion I A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C 327 o'n the emperor, that he threatened to put the town of Tangier to the fword, for f^/flagrant a piece of negledr. In their j unification, the peo ple informed their fovereign, that the error muff be imputed to the governor, who alone was re- fponfible for every circumftance which happened within his diftrift. This officer, who at the rifle of his life had fupported Muley Yazid in his minority with money, and afterwards placed him on the throne, for which the emperor took a folemn oath that he would never do him or his family the imalleft injury, was now thrown into irons, and immediately ordered into the royal prefence. The unfortunate man, forefeeing his fate, requeued the emperor would do juflice to God and Ma homet j to which he replied, " I mean to do juftice to my country by punishing a traitor ;" and he im mediately dilpatched him with a mufquet. The numberlefs cruelties which were perpetrated by Muley Yazid, I have not fufficient authentic information to authorife me to detail, nor am I fufficiently informed of the a6luai circumfiances of his reign, to be able to offer to the public a perfeft narrative of it. Thus far I can ven ture to affert with truth, that he in a fhort time devoted himfelf entirely to the drinking of ftrong liquors, which for the greateft part of the day rendered him unfit for bufinefs, and excited him to the molt favage cruelties; and, what was mod diftreffing, where they were the leaft delerved; with ibme he amufed himfelf by galloping up with great violence and fpearing them, others were buried aiive, while a third party were cut to pieces with fwords. 2 it A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. It is almoft unnecefiary to add, that the neglecl of public btifmefs, and the total infecurity of their perfons from the tyranny of the monarch, de- It royed in time intirely the confidence which the people had at firft placed in their fovereign, and encouraged Muley Hafem, towards the latter part of the year 1791, to put himfelf at the head of an army in oppofition to his brother. This prince, who poflefFed mod: of the bad, without any of the good qualities of the emperor, and who com manded againft him during the life of Sidi Ma homet, was further induced to this meafure in confequence of a fupply of ftores, and confider* able fums of money, which he received from the Spaniards, who had great reafon to wifh a change c)f government. The emperor, who {till had "many friends, foon collected a confiderable army> with which he marched to the Southward to dif~ Judge His brother, who had taken pofTeffion of the city of Morocco and its vicinity. Muley Hafem, upon this occafion, difcovered his ufual pufil- lanimity, by resigning his command t one of his generals ; who, however, was an acYive and enter- prizing officer. When the two armies met, a dreadful engagement enfued. The emperor dif covered an uncommon (hare of perfonal courage, intermixing with the enemy and fighting like a private foldicr. After a fevere confftft, he to tally routed the enemy and took pofleflion of Morocco ; but not before he had received feveral wounds, which in a few days proved mortal. During the (hort period of life which remained to him, his whole attention was occupied in pu- nifhing the people of Morocco for their attach- menr A TO T R TO MOROCCO, &C. 329 ment to his brother. Between two and three thoufand of the inhabitants, without; regard to age or fex, were rnafTacred in cold blood 5 while fome of them he ordered to be nailed alive to the walls, he tore out the eyes of others with his own fpurs, and, in bis dying moments, patted an edift that fixty people of Mogodore, among whom were mod of the European merchants., fhouli be decapitated for the affiftance which, he fuppofed they had afforded to his brother. Fortunately for them, he died foon after ifliung the order, and it was not forwarded. Pvluley Yazid, who only reigned two years, and at his death was in the forty-third year of his age, was pofFefTed of many qualities, which^ sf they had been properly improved, would have rendered him a very ufefui monarch in a country where the fovereign pofTefles fo much influence over his fubjedls ; naturally t^uUA of apprckcrtdoi*, determined in his conduft, and not eafily biafTed by the perfuafion of others, pofTeffing a great /hare of perfonal courage, and a total contempt of wealth; had thefe endowments of nature been meliorated by an enlightened education, they might have enabled him to have accomplifhed fome reformation in his fubjefts, and perhaps led the way to fome further impovement. Unfor tunately this prince too eafily gave way to the diftate of his paffions, which foon totally inca pacitated him. from carrying on even the com mon bufmcfe of government ; and rendered him as great a monlter as ever filled the throne of Morocco. Since 330 A TOUR TO MOROCCO, &C. Since the death of Muley Yazid, the country has been in a very unfettled ftate ; the people be ing now rendered extremely cautious how they eleft another monarch. To the Southward of Sallee, Muley Hafem, from pofTeffing the army, is obeyed as the fovereign ; while on the Northern fide of the empire, Muley Solyman, who from his exemplary conduft has gained the efteem of the people, is confidered as emperor. It now refls for time to determine which is to be the fuc- cefsful candidate. T I N 1 S,