University of California Berkeley Purchased from THOMAS W. STREETER BEQUEST JOURNAL OF A TRADING VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD 1805-1808. BY ISAAC ISEL1N. PRESS OF MCILROY 4 EMMET, 38 CORTLANDT ST. N. Y. INDEX. PAGE to the Cape de Verde Islands 3 Stay at the Cape de Verde Islands 4 Passage towards Cape Horn 8 Falkland Islands '. 10 Passage around Cape Horn 13 Pacific Ocean 14 Coast of Chili 15 Masafuero 19 Coquimbo 27 Sta. Maria Island 29 Coast of Peru 33 Marquasas Islands 37 California 50 Coast of Mexico 53 Sandwich Islands 64 Passage to Ladrone Islands 82 " " Bashu Islands 85 China 89 Passage down the China Seas 96 Passage through Indian Ocean 101 " " South Atlantic Ocean 103 Ascension Island 105 North Atlantic Ocean 107 Crew of Ship " Maryland." no DEPARTURE FROM NEW YORK. The ship being ready for sea, left her anchorage in 8os. the North River on Thursday morning, for Staaten Island, about eight miles below, where she again came to anchor. On Friday night at eleven o'clock, I bade farewell to New York, went on board the pilot boat at Washington street, and accompanied by a number of gentlemen to the ship, where we spent, in a crowded room, the rest of the night. By eight in the morning, on Saturday, the ship weighed anchor and dropped down to the lighthouse, near which we came to, to await the captain's arrival, and finally, at five in the evening, we went to sea; but it was midnight when the pilot left us with the gentlemen who had thus fai accompanied us. We had some apprehension of being overhauled by the British frigate Cleopatra, that had been cruising some time off the port and was in sight as we went out, manoeuvering apparently to give us chase, but by good sailing we soon got out of her reach and view. PASSAGE TO THE CAPE DE VERDE ISLANDS. It had been determined to touch at the Cape de Verde Islands, in order to take in some fruit and replenish our stock of water for the long voyage before us. With wind mostly light, variable and not generally favorable, our progress was slow. It was only on Sunday (Monday by sea reckoning) afternoon of i4th Oct., that we descried the Island of Bonavista, I4thOct and next day the Island of Mayo, the whole southwest part of which we ran down with fine weather isthOct. and fresh trades, and on Tuesday, i5th Oct., after a passage from New York of thirty-eight days, we came to anchor in Agoa Bay (Isle of Mayo), where we found five American vessels displaying their colors. During the passage a great number of vessels were de- scried and met with. The first spoken, i5th Sept., was a brig from Bordeaux for Rhode Island, whom we desired to report us all well. Next, 226. Sept., a brig, af- ter a long chase, came up with us, and proved to be from Boston for the North West Coast, and a few hours after, amongst three sails in sight, we spoke the brig Mononga- hela Farmer, forty-three days from Malaga for New York. I was glad of this opportunity to forward some letters, amongst which one for my good mother. Fell in (24th Sept.) with ship Dolphin, thirteen days from New London, on a whaling voyage to the coast of Pata- gonia. Her Captain, Williams, took dinner with us and kept company the next day. The 3rd Oct. we caught a dolphin. On the 8th Oct. we came up with and spoke to the whaling ship Exchange, Capt. Barnard, fifty days from New Bedford, for the coast of Brazil, and treated the captain till midnight. In the morning, there were no less than seven sails in sight, amongst which the fourth whaler spoke on the passage. It proved the Diana, Capt. Paddock, thirty days from New Bedford, round the Cape Horn, with whom we kept company and exchanged dinner till the i2th and i3th, when a sig- nal from the Diana for " whales " recalled Capt. Paddock to his own ship, when we finally parted with him. STAY AT THE CAPE DE VERDE ISLANDS. The five vessels found at Isle of Mayo proved to be ship James, Capt. Pinkhorn, of and for New York; brig Minerva, Capt. Richards, of and from Madeira, etc. ; brig Mary, of Philadelphia, Capt. Suter, from Ireland, for Philadelphia; brig Paulina, Capt. Wadsworth; brig Ris- ing State, Capt. Dickey; all having called here to load with salt. AT MAYO. Soon after having come to anchor, we went ashore and first looked out for water. Some of the crew were di- rected to the beach with empty casks, but the method of digging wells and sinking barrels to collect the water in proving very tedious, we were delayed five days (till ipth Oct.) before all was completed. During this time ^ a small slow trade was also carried on with the natives for some goats and other small live stock, a fruit and vege- tables. Captain Moore, Governor, Captain Tack and Colonel Cadover are the principal inhabitants whom we had to deal with (they are blacks negroes) and also with a white man, Mr. Medina, a Portuguese by birth, who re- ceived and treated us in his modest house with great hospitality. He is called Collector of Customs of the island. We made here, at Mayo, some trifling sales of biscuit at $10.00 per barrel, and Negrohead tobacco at $1.00 per fifteen hands, and took in for supply fifty or sixty lean goats at $1.00 each, with some pigs. I regularly went on shore three or four times a day to urge the supplies which delayed us. At one time I had a most narrow escape from being dropped a great height on the rocks, washed by the ocean, under the promontory to which I was dragged up along a stretched rope by means of a tackle, merely suspended by my hands holding^ ast to a hook, nor do I conceive to have run small danger of drowning, when, in an attempt to land, near the salt pans, the boat was overturned in a violent surf, from which I could extricate myself only with ut- most exertions. On the evening of Thursday, the ryth Oct., while going on board, a heavy squall with rain surprised us, which soon turned into a violent gale. The vessels around us drifted and fell foul of one an- other, and by the James coming across our bows, we lost our stream cable, but rode out the gale without any other damage. The Rising State (brig) drifted out to sea, and seeing her in distress, short of hands, the sec- ond officer, with five of our best men, went to her assist- ance and brought her safely back the next day. Other men were dispatched to several of the vessels that stood in need of assistance. We took a shark, twelve feet long, and a devil or diamond fish measuring ten and a half feet across. Besides a number of smaller fish were caught with a hook as fast as it was lowered, but they did not prove palatable to eat. The fish, about the size of a carp, has a singular bill, like a parrot; to its bite many of our hooks and lines were lost. On Sunday morning, the 2oth Oct., having our water on board, we left our anchorage, after a salute to the black governor of four guns, which was returned from the shore with an equal number, having presented His Black Excellency with cartridges for the purpose. Directing our course for the Island of St. lago with a fine N. E. trade, we came to anchor in the evening at Port Prayo, about a mile from the shore, under a kind of fort or rampart. Immediately after, we landed to wait on the Governor, a Portuguese gentleman, Don Con de Lancaster, who received us with much polite- ness. The Ship Purveyor, Maria Dacosta (a black), also presented himself, and arrangements were made for his providing further supplies of provisions. We delayed here six days more while some small repairs, such as caulking, etc., were made to the ship. Dined several times with the Governor, who kept a very good table, attended by his staff and some of the clergy or monks. The country about Prayo also afforded some resources for short and pleasant excursions, while the arrival and departure of vessels made the scene lively in the bay. The British en Flute frigates, Diana and Albion, full of passengers, under convoy of the Thalia frigate, with ^400,000 on board, it was said, bound to Calcutta, were amongst the arrivals and departures during our stay, and were the means of our supplying ourselves, at cheap rates, with vast quantities of oranges and lemons, which were heaped up on the beach, but in their hurry for sail- ing on the sudden signal from the commodore, were left behind. There were besides in port when we touched, the Minerva of Wilmington, from London for River La Plata; schooner Charlotte Chandler, from Boston for East India; brig Union of Philadelphia, from Madeira for United States (by which I wrote again to my dear mother); a Portuguese slave ship, a small Portuguese brig and a schooner commanded by Captain Manuel. The Governor, (a well bred gentlemen), after having visited the British frigates in our boat, honored our ship also with his visit and was treated with a salute of thirteen guns and three cheers. The town of Prayo is pleasantly situated on an elevated platform, it consists principally of two rows of houses, separated by a large street, or rather green square, one end of which is bounded by some public buildings. The houses are low, meanly built, but may be good enough for so mild a cli- mate. The population is much mixed and has a strong tincture of black, but there are native Portuguese amongst them. The Governor's authority, if I well understood, extends not only over St. lago, as the largest of the Cape de Verde Islands, but over the whole of the group. We could get but very little live stock, such as fowls, turkeys and pigs, but abundance of lemons and oranges (at i pistanens or 2/6 = 30 cents per 100) some bananas and other fruit with which the market was every morning well supplied. 2 6th Oct. At length, on Saturday the 26th Oct.,we took our depart- ure, to continue our voyage southward toward Cape Horn having again saluted the town and received in return 8 three guns from a kind of attempt at fortification where some rusty guns are still planted in the keeping of yet more rusty soldiers. PASSAGE TOWARDS CAPE HORN. After seven weeks departure from New York, our progress has by no means equalled my impatience. Fairly started now in pursuit of our object, I hope we may meet with less delay than hitherto. With variable wind and weather, occasional calms, squalls and rain, we made slow progress towards the Equator, we for the third time descried and came up 6th Nov. ^ ' " with(4th Nov.) the whaling ship Dolphin. On the 6th Nov., the twelfth day after leaving St. lago, we crossed the Equator in about W. Long, from Greenwich 28, and the usual ceremonies of paying tribute to Neptune, were performed on thirty -six of the ship's company. With fine weather and a good S. E. trade wind we made now fair progress in our route, and I began employing myself in arranging the cargo by reducing it into convenient packages and assortments for the contemplated trade in I5 th NOV. the South Seas> on the isth Nov., at noon we made the Islands of Martin Vas, apparently three in number, presenting to the aspect high rocks covered with verdure, and at five in the evening we passed about eight leagues to the eastward of the Island of Trinidad, which lies about 10 degrees off the coast of Brazils in Lat. about 20 south. Our progress from the line to here, for ten days has been pretty good with a S. E. trade wind making from 116 to 193 miles, averaging 155 miles per day ; as we get out of the tropics the trades begin to fail, and are replaced by variable, often adverse winds, occasional calms, squalls and rain so that in eight days to 23d Nov.,we have advanced but 4 degrees to the southward. Now we are favored with a good breeze from the northward and eastward which helps us along. Whales are in sight about the ship, spouting water in the air, several are fired at and a black fish whale, 16 feet long wounded by a shot and finished by harpoons and lances, is brought on board by the boat that had been in chase of him. Porpoises in great number. The 29th Nov., while at breakfast, a turtle was descried, the boat lowered and a fine turtle " Loggerhead" of about 200 Ib. brought on board. The next day a cry of fire, which had originated in the galley, excited a momentary alarm. The wind being light, lowered the boat and some sea birds were shot on the waterthere are plenty of them all around, with shoals of porpoises. Sounded on the banks, as we thought, but no bottom. The ist Dec., on the coast of Patagonia, in about Latd. 38 S. brought in a heavy rain, followed at midnight by a gale of wind which continued with more or less violence until the 6th, during which time we had often to lay to under bare poles, terribly and most uncomfortably tossed about by a tremendous sea. The doctor had the misfortune to be thrown on the deck by a pitch of the ship, and to dislocate the arm. A sea breaking in the cabin windows, inundated us and added to the most uncomfortable state we were in. Finding ourselves by reckoning on the fishing grounds we have been looking out some days for whales. Having sounded several times on the 8th Dec., we. got bottom in 40 to 50 fathoms water in Latd. about 41 and during the day came up with and spoke the whaling ship Alliance, Capt. Gardner, from Nantucket. The next day I went on board the Alliance, and saw with interest the operation of " drumming out " taking off the fat of a whale. Left letters with Capt. Gardner with directions to give them to the first homeward bound vessel, and parted company, we continuing our course southward, with light breezes which allowed us occasionally to put out the boat for shooting birds, which we were very successful in. At daylight on the nth Dec., Descried another ship, 10 which, on coming up with, we found to be the Uncle Toby, belonging to Jacob Barker, of New York, also after whales, from the south seas, with about 600 Ibs. sperm oil and 20,000 seal skins. Gave some letters to Capt. i6th Dec. Swaine, and proceeded southward sounding occasionally in 70 to 80 fathoms water, until on Monday, i6th Dec., we descried land at six in the morning, bearing E. N. E. As we approached towards it, with a fresh westerly breeze, one of our sailors, Thos. Vandervoort, fell from the mainyard into the sea. The ship being hove to with great celerity, and a boat lowered, the poor fellow was saved from a watery grave. Next day, the iyth, at two in the afternoon, we came to anchor, about half a mile from the shore, in the harbor of New Island, one of the Falkland Islands. We immediately went on shore to take a view of the watering place where we meant to replenish our stock, and rambling about with our guns shot a great many birds, rooks, about the size of a crow. Visited also the penguin rookery, where thousands, millions of those birds and of albatrosses defended their nests in thick array. TEN DAYS' STAY AT THE FALKLAND ISLANDS. After a pretty long passage of fifty- two days from St. lago (Cape de Verde Islands), and a hundred and two from New York (including eleven days at the Cape de Verde Islands), we touched at the Falkland Islands to refresh the crew and take in a fresh supply of water. This was easily obtained from a well close to the beach and half a mile from the ship, which was anchored in an excellent harbor called " Coffin's Harbor," in New Island, the entrance of which is secured by " Ball " and two more small islands, while within, and a few rods from our anchorage, is the small island which served as a place of detention for some of our crew who had made too free use with the ship's liquor, and after them we gave it the name of " Drunken Island." II After so long a confinement in the narrow space of a ship, it was no small enjoyment to be allowed to put the foot on shore again, even on uninhabited and uncul- tivated islands. Whenever the weather would anyways allow it we roved about, not only on the island immedi- ately near us, but over several of the group, which we visited in succession by daily excursions. We found good sport in the abundance of fowls, such as geese, teal and loggerhead ducks, of which, crowded as they were often met with, it required no particular skill at shooting to have every shot strike, so that we easily sup- plied to satiety, the consumption of a crew of more than sixty men. Though most of these fowls have more than enough of fishy taste, yet they would answer for " pot pies " and some quite good for the spit. The al- batrosses, leaving their immense rookeries, also plied on their wings about the ship, while a variety of penguins amused us by their skill to avoid a shot by suddenly ducking in the water. Some robins and snipe were also seen on shore, but they were few. During our excur- sions we fell in several times with seal rookeries and collected on the whole about half a hundred. They are said to have been, some years ago, very abundant, but the eagerness of the sealers has pursued them so closely that their number is now materially reduced. Starting one morning (22nd Dec.) by daylight, in the boat for State Bay, in a distant island, we were pre- vented (after having roved about the whole day) by ad- verse winds, from returning to the ship. Accordingly, we beached the whale boat, and reversing it to take shelter under, prepared to spend the night on shore. We had met in the day the track, but the track only, of some dogs and also men's footsteps, in pursuing which we came up with two small dogs, which a good deal ex- cited our curiosity. To ascertain the situation of the bay we were in, we ascended by sunset a high hill, the foot of which extended to the water shore. On reach- 12 ing the top it was no small surprise to see at the foot, in an opposite bay, a large ship laying at anchor. A signal was immediately made to her, when two boats came on shore and took us to the strange ship. She proved to be the Hercules, Capt. Scott, from London, a month from Masaf uero, South Seap, where she had been seal- ing and whaling, under the direction of a Yankee, Mr. Delano. Rather than return to our uncomfortable quarters on the beach, we accepted the offer of a night's lodging on board the Hercules, and instead of the fried seal's brains and liver we had prepared for our supper, were treated by Capt. Scott with honest ship's fare. On the next morning we returned to our ship, accompanied by Mr. Delano in his own whale boat, having squalls and adverse winds to contend with. Mr. Scott made a present of a terrapin from the Gallapagos Island, pretty lean, which need not be wondered at, as it had received no food since being taken. It appears rather a cruel assertion, when acted on, that these animals live four to six months without any food. While crossing one day from one bay to another, fell on a handsome fresh water pond where we found an abundance of gull's eggs. After half an hour's sailing saw some seals on a rock, but could not make a landing. Steered for another small island which was surrounded and covered with seals. With great difficulty, climbing over rocks, half way up in the water, we gained a footing upon it. At- tacking the seals I first knocked down an old one (clap match), and then eight pups. Also took a large Whig (sea lion) which we skinned. Loaded with spoil it was no easy matter to reach the boat, and in an attempt I fell from a rock in the water, fortunately deep enough to prevent injury. Against a heavy swell and head winds we had to contend till midnight before we reached the ship, having taken to the oars to keep off cold chills, while drenched to the skin. Though in the height of the southern summer (December), the weather 13 was not any ways warm in these islands, and occasional gusts and squalls even rendered it at times uncomfort- able to remain for a whole day in wet clothes while pur- suing game. The Falkland (or Malouines) Islands are uninhabited and their climate inhospitable. They are boggy and mountainous with brush wood. As a water- ing place for vessels bound to the Pacific they are well situated, having excellent harbors. Potatoes and other vegetables would probably grow if cultivated. We found some sorrel, wild celery and a kind of cranberries. On New Island, in a bay about six miles from the ship, we discovered two huts where we left the name of our ship in a bottle, for the information of succeeding visitors. I sent again letters from these islands by the Hercules. PASSAGE AROUND CAPE HORN. Having, during a ten days' stay, accomplished the small repairs and replenishment of water, which had called us to the Falkland Islands, we departed early on Sunday morning, the 28th Dec., on our way to double Cape Horn, a8th Dec to the Pacific Ocean. The season for this, so long dreaded passage was favorable, in the midst of the southern summer. But in these high latitudes the weather seems to be very unsettled at all seasons, as we soon experienced. On the 3oth, we passed by Staaten Island, a-bout one league distant, so that we could clearly see the stately forest which covered the high mountain, checkered here and there by a small patch of snow. The last day of the year closed with strong gales from the S. E. and continual squalls, and so we ushered in the New Year with very uncomfortable weather, ist Jany., ist jat y . 1806. We have now been 116 days out from New York, during which time our progress has by no means kept pace with my impatience. The prospects, on the beginning of the New Year, are far from inspiring those sensations which I so often cherished on similar days in the circle of relations and friends, now very distant, and the gloomy appearance of all around us, the tempestuous weather, hail and snow which keep us confined to a damp, cold and sombre cabin, are far from alleviating the pain excited by a privation of all dear to me. 3 rd jany. ^ n tne 3 rc ^ J an 7- saw land in about 57, which we took to be the Islands of Diego Ramirez. 1 5th Jany. Its now eighteen days since we left the Falkland Islands, during which we have had an almost uninterrupted gale, mostly ahead, with heavy sea, raw uncomfortable weather with rain, snow and hail. What a summer ! Our latitude by dead reckoning, is now about 82 west from Greenwich, that is several degrees to the westward of Tierra del Fuego, but the wind, holding to the northward and westward with obstinacy, we cannot get away from this dismal place, while we are even under apprehension of falling in with ice, as we are so far south of Cape Horn. Since we left the Falkland Islands, we have almost con- stantly albatrosses and smaller birds for companions ; last night their number was very great and as the water was greenish, we had suspicion of being near to some small Islands, the " Elizabeths," laid down on several charts. 24th Jany. The wind continues blowing a gale from W. S. W. which makes the vessel labor very hard. Found 30 inches water in hold, on which shortened sail to stop the leak in the bows. 25th Jany. After 28 days from the Falkland Islands, we have now at length fairly cleared the Cape Horn, and hope to leave this region of squalls and storms. We spread all our canvas to a fresh westerly wind, which carries us swiftly to a more genial climate. The guns are mounted again, storm masts rigged in, royal and top gallant sails sent aloft, and everything prepared for the approach to the Spanish Coast. The weather be- 15 comes mild and pleasant, and we begin to feel (3oth Jany. Lat. 38,) those steady south, west and east winds so prevalent on this coast. Owing to some uncertainty still prevailing in the mind of our navigator, our progress is less rapid (from occasional standing off and heaving to during the night) than favorable winds would otherwise allow. However, on the ist Feby., at daylight, land isde- 18t Feby scried and at noon in Lat. 38 2, we have the Island of Mocha, about eight leagues south of us. Light winds and some idea of landing, have kept us two days about this Islandresume our course northward some whales in sight, but no ships, though we are on the whaling grounds, and though we survey it with beautiful weather and an expanded horizon. 5th Feby. Got sight of the Island of Santa Maria by sun- set passed the Top of Biobio on the entrance of Concep- sth Feby. tion Bay. Whales sporting and spouting about the ship, which we occasionally fire at. 7th Feby. Saw a distant sail but did not near it, wind light inclined to calm ; chased some whales with the boat but without success; at night they are playing around the ship. We are surprised, in the morning, to find ourselves swept by a current within two leagues of the coast (which had not been visible in the evening), supposed off St. Vincent, near Conception Bay. Lowered a boat to tow us off. Whales, seals and thousands of higlits, albatrosses and other birds about the ship. With variable winds we continue to ply along, the coast occasionally in sight, and which we have a fair I2th Feb y- view of on the i2th Feby. The land, appears high, mountainous, with a romantic aspect, though rather bar- ren, and but little wind and no signs of cultivation can be discerned as yet. With a lovely breeze and beautiful sky we gradually draw near the shore. The sun is about setting as we double the low point to enter Tongoy Bay, on the coast of Chili, where we cast anchor about nine in the even- i6 ing, with the night closing on us. Early in the morning I was on deck to take a view of the land which after so much longing we had at last reached. It presented, round an open bay, low shore towards the sea with gradual rise back, few signs of cultivation and only a few solitary huts called the Village of Tongoy, present themselves to cheer the heart. No fishermen, no boats or any living beings to be seen. Are they alarmed by the approach of a ship in these times of war? The lati- tude of our anchorage about 30 24' 5*. A boat being dispatched to the shore, the huts were found deserted; however, two of the natives approached with much caution on horseback, and, by friendly signs and assur- ance, were prevailed upon to enter into a parley. They confirmed our conjectures, that on the approach of a ship, taking her for an Englishman, the few inhabitants had fled from the hamlet. Removing their alarm by our friendly professions, the people soon returned to their dwellings, and in the evening two of the poor in- habitants with a guard from Coquimbo, came on board and were liberally treated with spirits, to which a pres- ent was added on their return to shore towards mid- night. We now sent information of our arrival, with views to trade, to the town of Coquimbo, about eighteen leagues distant, and received some supplies of goats, etc., with bags of milk, which proved very welcome and necessary to aid in dispelling some symptoms of scurvy which had begun to make their appearance amongst the crew. Don Fernando de Guarea first visited us (the 1 4th) and next day Don Jose Gabl. Guiroza, both from Coquimbo. I was anxious to ascertain from them what expectations might be entertained for the attainment of the object of our voyage, and had long conversations with both, exhibiting them also some of our cargo. But though they showed a wish to purchase they had no means with them, so that nothing effectual was done. Meantime we continued to take in slowly some cattle 17 and small supplies of vegetables, which had to be sent all the way from Coquimbo, and received frequent vis- its from the natives, rather annoying when protracted late in the night. I visited the shore as frequently as my occupations would allow, and never failed to jump on one of the several horses that were always to be had, in order to gallop about the beach and adjoining hills. After six days' stay in Tongoy Bay, we departed on the 1 7th Feby., to stand off and on until our friends at Co- I7th Feby quimbo would collect the means for trade, for which, on my part, I also continued arrangements. Nothing interesting occurred, during a tedious cruise of ten days off the coast (Chili), until the 26th Feby., when we re- turned for the second time to Tongoy. To our disap- 6th Feby. pointment we found that the letters addressed during our former stay, amongst others to the Subdelegado (Governor) of Coquimbo had not produced the wished for effect, since, instead of obtaining facilities, we found our trade greatly impeded by a number of guards, who had strict orders to prevent all interview between us and the shore. However, a few Spaniards came on board, notwithstanding, and made purchases for about $400, with which they were safely landed in the evening between the houses and the point called Langua de Vaca; but to our regret, we learned next day that hav- ing met with the guards, they took to flight, leaving the goods behind. This did not prevent others from coming as per former appointment; they had, however, left their money, stated at about $6,000, somewhere ashore, probably from a feeling of distrust, very ex- cusable under the circumstances, wishing first to col- lect and select the goods before parting with their cash. They did so, accordingly, but under awkward feelings, since it had been found proper to go under way with the ship, and our visitors felt the effect of the agitation occasioned by the rolling of the ves- sel with a fresh breeze. In the evening an attempt i8 to land them and to bring off the money was made, but the boats being sent off when our distance from the shore was too great, they found it impossible to reach the point they had started for and to contend against a strong adverse wind ; but they sought shelter under the first land they could make, after being nearly ex- hausted by ten hours' ineffectual efforts at the oars, and waiting near twelve hours for the Spaniards, who, in their joy to put foot on shore again, forgot their promise to return with the money, our people returned to the ship quite fagged out and starved, after twenty- four hours' absence. Thus ended in disappointment this ill-judged undertaking. ist March. ist March, in the evening, returned to anchorage (for the third time), in Tongoy bay; sent boat on shore next morning, when, with some presents, rendered the officer of the Guards (Dragoons) more treatable and he aided us in getting off some live stock, vegetables, etc. On the 4th of March, two negroes came on board to take passage, they reported themselves as having desert- ed four months ago, from the ship Fame of Nantucket, while lying in Coquimbo. From the Captain of the Guards on shore, I learnt some political news from Europe, of an engagement of the combined fleets of France and Spain against the fleet of Great Britain which proved victorious. That Russia and Prussia had declared war against France and that Bonaparte was at the head of a victorious army but twelve leagues from Vienna. On Wednesday evening, after having taken on board 5 th March, about 24 goats and sheep, the 5th March, stood out of Tongoy and directed our course for Herradura with a fine bright moon, where we landed that night Signer Urizer, who had spent about a week with us on board. The small bay of Herradura, is in about Lat. 30 S, a few leagues from the port of Coquimbo. The entrance is narrow but safe, and it affords a good anchorage for '9 vessels of large size. During our several stays at Tongoy, I could observe that the bay offers very good anchorage in a kind of fine clay, covered lightly with sand. Vessels are well sheltered there against southerly winds, which prevail during the greatest part of the year. In the morning we generally had hazy weather, with calms or a light westerly air, which was followed towards noon by a fresh S. W. breeze, with fine clear weather. Few whales were seen, except the last day, when several were playing around the ship. In the month of October they are said to be in great plenty. Plenty of fish is also found along shore, but they can only be caught with nets of which the poor inhabitants have but few. Cattle, goats and sheep are found in abundance in the neigh- borhood, at $10 for the former and $i per head for sheep and goats. Vegetables are scarce. Horses very common, handsome and promising good qualities, $10 is the ordinary price. Milk was brought on board pretty freely in skins of kids, the hair turned inside. Having intention to make a trial at Conception, we left Herredura, on Thursday, 6th March, to touch first at 6th March ' Massaf uera for wood and water. Hazy weather prevented us from seeing the Paxaro Islands. With unsteady wind, mostly ahead and a heavy adverse swell, our progress to the southward was slow, and the difficulty of ascertain- ing our actual position, contributed to lengthen the passage to Massafuera which we did not reach before the 1 8th March. MASSAFUERA. While the ship was plying off and on, I landed on the Island of Massafuera (further off) on the morning of the 1 8th March, and after a short excursion, during which we took about 20 seals, returned in the evening to the l8thMarch - ship, with an abundant supply of fish and lobsters, which we had taken with the line and hook off the beach. Next evening, I again attended an expedition to the 20 shore for wood and water. A fire was kindled with drift wood collected along the shore, and the night was spent on the ground in a cave under a projecting rock, which sheltered us from the pelting of a tremendous rain and storm. During the expedition made in the morning, fell in with several small huts in tolerably good state, in which found various implements, such as lamps, lances, shoemaker's lasts, rope yarn, barrels, etc. and a Dutch Bible. No other traces of inhabitants were descried, tho' the evening of our approach we had observed many lights in the mountain ; but we were now surprised by the appearance of a stranger with one of our parties. It proved to be a man, named Wright, an American, who, from the moment of our approach had dogged us unobservedly in the woods, till he ascer- tained that we were not Spaniards and thought then he might show himself without danger. He stated to have been alone on the island for seven years. Parties were now engaged to cut wood on the moun- tain, others to procure water, while all those who figured on the Doctor's list were also put on shore for recovery. As the anchorage is not safe, the ship was all the time plying off and on, as the weather would allow, generally in sight of the Island ; however at one time we were blown off so far that we could not regain the Island for five or six days. The party on shore, alarmed by our long absence and lost in conjectures, had already made their plans for preparing their boat in order to make an attempt to reach the continent, in case we should not return in a given time. Our reappearance relieved them. They had not lost their time in the meanwhile, but had prepared a large stock of wood, which we took to the ship in boats. The washers made a doleful report of the loss of some linen, swept away by the heavy torrents running down from the mountain after a night's rain. On starting from the shore for the ship, the whaleboat was capsized in a tremendous surf, but without any 21 accident besides a thorough ducking. This island is laid down in Long, and Lat. 30 45' south. Our observa- tions made it 30 50'. It is about 90 miles to the west- ward of Juan Fernandez, which Island may be seen from the top of the mountains in very clear weather. The circumference of Massafuera is about 21 miles. The land is very high, presenting craggy mountains covered with wood and some verdure. It abounds with streams of fresh water, which roll from the top of the mountains in romantic cascades, offering to the eye a grand and varying aspect. The shore is generally rocky and the walk along it (even with moccasins, which we had to carry in pursuit of seals over slipping stones) very difficult and fatiguing. The chief landing place is on the N. E. part, where, when the surf does not run too high, boats may land and be laid in safety on the rocky beach. There are some other landing places at different parts of the Island. Wood is plenty, but somewhat difficult to procure. What we got was cut on the top of a steep mountain, over Bui's Gulch, whence it was thrown down on the beach and carried to the boats. Some vegetables, such as cabbages, potatoes, radishes were also found as planted by former visitors, and it is possible that, with due attention, all such productions would freely grow, the soil appearing rich and fertile. Found also sour sap, horse radish, etc. Rooks with some small birds and a few humming birds were seen. I may add, that the shurwaters or higlits, towards sunset, always afforded entertainment by playing in innumer- able swarms on the surface of the water. Their nests are said to be on the top of the mountains, where their eggs, of the size of hen eggs, may be found, Goats of which we saw numbers climbing on the higher part of the Island, are also plenty but not easily caught. We saw many cats. Massafuera, I am told, was first frequented in the year 1797, when a Captain Green, of New Haven, (U. S.) in 22 the ship Neptune, came round here from the Falkland Islands after seals. In a short time he collected and loaded his vessel, some say with 120,000, others 160,000 skins, which he carried to Canton, China, and there sold them at $3. to 4.50 per skin. The ship's Doctor and a Mr. Ball had been left on the Island, with some of the Neptune's crew, who procured for next season a similar quantity which was disposed of in a like manner. So many American vessels have since followed this, once so advantageous pursuit, that the race of seals is nearly extinguished on the Island, and since the Spaniards, in the month of May last (1805), have taken off the sealers that were then still left, and destroyed most of the huts they had built, it is probable that no commercial object will soon attract adventurers again. At present, there is but one man on the Island, who calls himself John Wright, of Boston. He came here about seven years ago, and having avoided the researches of the Spaniards, he intends to spend five years more in this dreary solitude, in order to take skins enough to insure an independence, whenever he may return to his native land. The season to take the yearly pops (seals) I am told, is from June till October, when formerly the beaches were found all covered with these animals bask- ing in the sun. The mode to take them is to form a half circle of as many men as you have, approach towards the seals, striking them with a long stick over the nose, the stick or club is armed with a heavy iron ring. A good blow will stun or kill a pop, but the grown seals and particularly the males, sea lions, animals of immense size, are not so easily dispatched and they valiantly defend themselves. After the havoc of knocking down is completed, the seals are skinned, the skins cleaned of the fat or flesh that may remain on them and then ex- posed to the air and sun to dry, when they are fit for market. Some do also salt the skins, but then they are less valuable. The carcasses are left a prey to birds and fish. During a stay of above a fortnight, we saw but a few score of seals, mostly large whigs, sea lions, some of which fought excellent battles. Fish in great variety, are abundant all around the Island, and with a few hours angling we could get sufficient for the whole crew and of superior quality. Shell fish, like lobsters, rather pre- ferable in taste to what we eat in America, are also plenty. Sour sap, a plant, the stalk of which is said to possess anti-scorbutic qualities, is also much met with ashore. It's of an acid, not unpleasant taste. Vessels seldom come to anchor here, as the bottom all around the Island is deep and rocky. The prevailing winds are said to be from the southward and eastward to S. W. But during our stay, we had them most generally from the northward and westward. The climate is temperate and healthy. Even the winter, which begins about May is only distinguished by strong rains. Beach le Mur, a sucking fish much valued in China, is found occasion- ally at low water attached to the rocks. Having now . supplied a large stock of wood and filled about seventy water casks, we took our depar- ture from Massafuero on the evening of the 5th April. 5th ApriK As we parted from him Wright dropped a tear. He was standing on the lonely beach waving his hat, his dogs Rover and Bully at his side, howling piteously, as if to deplore their master's fate. Poor fellow! He was keeping his eyes fixed on us from the beach, as the ship slowly moved on in a bright moonlight, till lost in the wide ocean. On departure, supplied Wright with some books and various necessaries, to relieve his lonely hours. Next day, 6th April, passed the Island of Juan Fer- nandez, at a considerable distance to the south, present- ing several hillocks of moderate height. Standing towards the main with fresh S. E. gales and fine weather, we descried on the 9th the high tops of the distant Cordilleras, covered with snow, in about latitude 24 i 5 th April. 31 S., and on the 1 5th, per appointment once more, for the fourth time, entered the Bay of Tongoy and dropped anchor. Our boat being dispatched for two persons we saw on the beach, we soon received through them information from Coquimbo not very favorable to our views, as the meeting with Urizar, on which we were led to ground hopes, could not take place. English ship, with two Spanish brigs, in Coquimbo. In the evening, i$th April, went ashore, took horses in the dark and galloped over rough paths and through briars, etc., to the Curate's house, five miles in the in- terior. Loaded fourteen horses with fresh provisions, with which returned to the beach, and by daylight to the ship. i6th April. On the morning of the 1 6th, got under way from Tongoy, taking friend Guiroza along, to proceed to the port of Conchali, where we were to meet on the 2oth; but our progress in beating to the southward was so much retarded by a heavy head swell, that we could not get to what we took to be the appointed spot, before the 23d. In the afternoon the long and whaleboats, well armed and manned, were dispatched for the shore after information, while the ship was standing off and on. Sounded for pastime, and, to our surprise, got bottom in about seventy-five fathoms, fine gray sand, three and four miles from land. On this bold coast it is seldom that, even close to the shore, bottom can be found. Many fires ashore showed our lanthorns. The next day boats returned with Don Antonio Guzman from Coquimbo, but nothing seen or heard of Don Esheveria, who was to have met us here with $60,000 no small disappointment! Went on shore in the morning (25th) with Don Guzman and his goods, got off some cattle and fresh provisions. It was deemed safe to take the ship to anchor in the bay, as it af- fords a tolerable shelter and good holding ground. The main road to Valparaiso passes near this bay. Only a few fishermen's hovels on the shore. 25 26th. Set sail again for Tongoy Bay, where we 3 6th April, sent the whaleboat in next day with Mr. Guiroza; learned that a dozen guards were there from Co- quimbo, and that some of the wretched inhabitants had been taken into custody for having supplied us with provisions. Stood off till 2d May, Friday, when we 2 dMay. returned to Tongoy; sent in a boat, which brought Mr. Guiroza aboard, from the small, snug site of St. Lor- enzo. 3d May. Stood out again and shaped our cruise 3d May - for Chanaral, to the northward, with variable, light winds. 4th. Paxaro Islands and mainland in sight. yth. Seen some islands, supposed the Chocoes and Torteral. Landed on this latter the loth May. It is joth Ma a mere rock on which saw some seals, penguins and minks. In a boat excursion saw also sword-fish. On the nth, sent a boat to reconnoitre the shore in lat- itude about 28^, and soon followed, but could not get sight of her again; i2th and i3th, boat not returned, at a loss what to think about it. i4th, the boat hove in sight, and came alongside with a crew ex- hausted and nearly starved, having been fifty-six hours almost without victuals or drinking. They had fol- lowed along a sandy beach a desert country, where they saw only three horsemen, who took to their heels on the approach of the boat. Stood to the southward; on the iGth, at daylight, saw a sail. On the 2oth, landed Mr. Guiroza again, in S. aoth May Lorenzo Bay near Tongoy, having thus been more than a fortnight on a wild goose chase after the friend who had appointed the meeting in Chanaral. We were in- formed, however, by expresses found ashore, that our friend had waited for us six days on the desert shore near Chanaral, and, disappointed at not finding us, had returned to his quarters. 2 1 st. Took some refreshments and a number of Spaniards on board for trade, etc. Next day, landed them again with their goods, having stood off and on 26 during the night. Passed with a smacking breeze with- in pistol shot of the high cliff near the entrance of Ton- goy Bay, tacking about while waiting for the boats. 22dMay. 22 &- Stood to sea again, to return on the 28th, by appointment; when off S. Lorenzo, Mr. Guiroza once more came on board. The next morning, 29th May, we took about a dozen Spaniards on board with their spe- cie for trade, while plying under sail with the ship about Tongoy. Signers Don Medina, Munizago, Azagra, etc. were of the number. On the evening of the 3oth, we landed them in Guanaguera Bay with their goods. The last twenty-four hours have been the most fatiguing I ever spent, engaged the whole time, without a moment's intermission, in effecting sales, counting money, weigh- ing ingots, delivering goods, making out invoices, writ- ing letters, while surrounded in a crowded cabin with a swarm of people. The small smooth Bay of Guanaguera, a little lee- wards of Tongoy, and where we anchored in 17^ feet, preferable to Tongoy. Left Guanaguera for Tongoy, with some Spaniards on board, when we anchored. ist June, landed and took off some visitors, amongst which an Englishman, who many years ago had run away from his ship, and is now married in this country. Stood out of bay and landed Urizar and Guiroza, 3d June, at S. Lorenzo. A strange ship in sight. Beat to quarters, prepared for action, and went out to meet her. Proved to be the ship Lima, Capt. S. Swain, from Nan- tucket, twenty-two months out on a whaling voyage. Received the visit of Capt. Swain, accompanied by a Capt. Folger; he stated that while in command of the American ship John and James, his crew had mutinied on him about four months ago, and put the captain and officers adrift in a boat to reach an English vessel, the Lucy. Attacked by her, the mutineers, after sustaining the fight for a few hours, abandoned their vessel near Conception, taking to the boats for shore. 2 7 5th June. Entered with the Lima into Tongoy Bay; 5 thjune. remained in company with this vessel for upwards of a fortnight, occasionally at anchor, but mostly plying off and about. Had a good opportunity to witness the whaling sport. Went several times in the boats in pur- suit of whales, and had the pleasure to see some taken, cut up and boiled out. It's a grand sight. On the 22d, took leave of the Lima with three cheers, she being home- ward bound. Gave her our letters, and she also took charge of one of our men, George Hale, discharged for bad health. Some symptoms of scurvy among the crew. Continued trading. 24th, at Guanaguero, took in cop- per; one of the men, Pollus, is reported a deserter. 27th, landed our visitors and took a ride on shore. 28th, left 28th June. Guanaguero for the harbor of Coquimbo, where we an- chored next afternoon (29th) in seven and a half fathoms, the town bearing east, about eight miles distant. Be- ing now on pretty good terms with the Governor and other authorities (though ostensibly they had to refuse us the supplies sued for as a cover for our coming in here), we had pretty free and frequent intercourse with the inhabitants, both on shore and on board ship. The frequent intercourse we have had for months past with many of the inhabitants of Coquimbo, made us no strangers here, though we now, for the first time, entered the harbor. Happy to approach again to some- what like civilization, I took an early opportunity to land, in order to visit the city. Horses were to be in readiness at the Bay of Herradura, but they not appear- ing, spent the night at a neighboring country hut. The Subdelegado and many acquaintances here visited us. ist July. Visited the city, where met with cordial reception. It was however evident that glad as the inhabitants were to see us, they all were, the same as the Subdelegado, under restraint and uneasiness, owing to the blame that might attach to them, for having allowed our entrance, which by the bye they had no . 28 means to prevent, at least as related to the ship going into the port, contrary to general orders. In the several houses I visited, the ladies were generally found squatted on the floor, in darkened rooms, smoking segars and sipping the mate which passed from mouth to mouth through the whole company. One afternoon, while ashore and in town, we heard signal guns fired, on which immediately mounted our horses and set out for the harbour. After a five hours ride we reached there in spite of the guards who made some attempt to interrupt us. The alarm was occasioned by a strange sail standing for the port. Got the Mary- land under way and cleared for action, the ports all illuminated as the stranger passed us by sundown, to make a show with our guns. Went on board the stranger, whom I found to be the Spanish ship " Margua- rita " Capt. Ribas, whose alarm our sight had excited ; was soon appeased by friendly professions. 5th July. Left Coquimbo for Tongoy and Guanaguero July- where we anchored on the yth by daylight, and remained until the i2th trading with our friends who had come on for the purpose from Coquimbo. Took in about 350 pigs of copper. Four more of our crew here deserted, i 3 th July. with tn e whaleboat and arms. Left Tongoy the i3th and next day, Sunday, at five in the evening, entered for the second time the port of Coquimbo. Went on board the ' Marguarita " where found Mr. Espinosa and family. They soon, with a numerous suite, came on board the " Maryland." The ladies Donna Paulita, Johannita, etc., honored us with a fandango on the quarter deck, and were landed late after having been presented with var- ious trifles. Continued here six days, during which, amongst others, had the visit of the Governor. Took also an opportunity to ride once more to town where we passed the gates at full run just as the guards were con- cocting how to arrest us, A Padre warned us, that it was not safe to remain, so that we soon mounted and made off again. 2 9 Coquimbo or la Serena, lays in Lat. about 30 S, and is one of the considerable towns of Chili. The streets are regular, the houses low, chiefly but one story high, the inhabitants appear very kind and hospitable, and I have found them fair in their dealings. They seem to lead a luxurious slovenly life, but capable of being excited to exertion and industry. The town is pleasantly situated a few leagues from the harbor and the climate most delightful. 2oth July. After an unsuccessful attempt, the pre- 20th jui y . ceeding day, to get out, we sailed from the port of Coquimbo in company with the Spanish ship Marguarita for Tongoy, where we anchored on the 2 26. to meet some traders, amongst which Don M. de Aldunate from Yllapel, and his brother in law the Marquis of * * * STA. MARIA ISLAND. After accomplishing our business, we sailed again on the 23rd for the Island of Sta. Maria, the Marguarita 23 djuiy. under convoy; parted company with her on the 28th, when about 20 miles off the port of Valparaiso. Con- tinuing our course alone, we experienced a smart N. E. gale on the 4th August, and did not reach the anchorage in the southern harbor of Sta. Maria, before the 9th 9th Aug - August. The business of replenishing our stock of water did not proceed as fast as we could have wished, though to be had very handy from a fine stream on a handsome sandy beach. The delay arose from the difficulty of rafting the water casks to the ship, while a strong breeze generally rendered the sea very rough. During the stay I made excursions all over the Island with the Doctor. It is uninhabited. The soil seems rich, but is covered with little else than grass and clover. Rats are very numerous. There are some considerable thickets or brushes, almost impenetrable, but no large wood and no 30 supply of fuel for a ship could be had here. Hogs were formerly, and are said to be still very plenty on the Island ; however, we saw none, nor any wild horses. The western and northern parts present high steep rocks, awful and romantic when the immense long waves roll and foam over them. There are two harbors. The northern which is only visited and safe in summer when the wind prevails from the southward. The other called the southern harbor, hardly deserves this name, offering but scanty shelter, open on the S. W. formed by the mainland point of Arolla on one side and the Island on the other. We neither caught nor saw any fish. To the N. W. of the Island a shore or bank stretches out, on which there is at places but very shallow water. After a week's deten- i6thAug. tion, we went to sea again on the i6th August, and the next day at noon saw the distant pass of Biobio, while heading to the north with a heavy gale from N. W. and rough sea. This being the winter season of the southern hemisphere, the winds have changed from the southward and eastward, to the N. W. quarter, from fine breezes to rough gales with rain, while the wonted bright sky has now heavy clouds obscuring it. 23rd, passed the port of Valparaiso ; on seeing two vessels come out, hauled on the wind to the S. W. and under a press of sail, flew through the water, close hauled, at the rate of nine knots. Relinquished the contemplated rendez- vous with Capt. Ribas and Mr. Claudio and kept on for 26th Aug. Tongoy, where on the 26th, off S. Lorenzo, went ashore but found, to our disappointment, that our good old fisherman had dislodged. Entered Tongoy the 28th, and made small sale to Aranzamundo del Valle, 'by whom proposed, by letter, a meeting to Mr. Aldurate at Con- chali; wrote also to Coquimbo. 30 th, on landing heard that some gentlemen had been waiting for us some days, went three leagues inland where found Padre Ovalle. He spoke of being provided with large funds for trade. ist Sept. An Irishman calling himself Dr. Smith, from America, had been on board to get some drugs and medicines. He appears to be a runaway sailor, practices now as a quack by which he says he makes a good living. Large parties come down to see the ship. Spent some time with them at Estevan's hut, got horses and accom- panied them 10 miles to their home. Amongst the ladies were Donna Rosarita Caleador and her sister Theresa del Torre. Had some "fandangoes," much singing with guitar, and altogether spent a pleasant time. By midnight, went to Curate's house where met Don Barcurran from Yllapel and a Dominican Friar, who went on board with us. Padre Ovalle came also, and we did some extensive business, say about $20,000 during the 24 hours. This Padre seemed to be a very effective Agent of a contraband Company, Don Pedro Ponze, at the head of the Guards, having moved out of the way, the goods were landed on the $rd Sept. Sent several small presents to Donna Rosarita, who, in return, favored us with a large trunk full of fruit, comfits, sweetmeats, cakes, etc. 4th to 6th, off and on Tongoy. Took on board Don Pablo Osa, another mem- ber of Padre Ovalle 's company, yth, landed goods, took in copper and some cattle. 8th, stood for Guaraguero, 8th Se P* where landed some goods, took in copper and some cattle of Pancho Erera and others, pth, still being trad- ing with Arazena, said to be one of the principal owners of the Guara copper mines, and with * * *. loth, returned to Tongoy. nth Sept., our chief officer, S. Bayard, left us here, as he could no more endure it on board, while constantly at discord with the Captain, etc. Supplied him with money and letters, and well recommended him to the care of the good curate, Don J. N. Baras, who resides three leagues inland. During 10 or 12 days that we this time remained here, at anchor or plying about, we were much visited by small traders. The 3 2 business with the guards was also well arranged, and their captain, Escheveria, spent much of his time aboard ship. As my time would allow, I made excursions on shore, on horseback, chiefly to the Curate, who, as well as the ladies, Da. Chavelita, Da. Carmelita, etc., received and entertained us with much kindness. Took a good ride to Lorenzo Gallardo. ipth. The Curate had yes- terday a large number of cattle driven together on his place, to brand all the young ones, etc. Saw some fine sport, of the horsemen pursuing and catching the cattle with the lasso, and altogether spent a pleasant afternoon on horseback. 2oth. Mr Bazaro on the beach with Capt. Perry, etc. 2 3 d Sept. 23d. On an invitation from Mr. Aldunate, we started to meet him at Conchali, where reached on the 28th, and met that gentleman encamped with a large party and much specie. While the ship was laying off and on, had frequent conversations with Mr. A. on shore, but to my sad disappointment, could not agree on any terms, chiefly because the goods we now had left did not suit him. I however prevailed on him to come on board with his friend, the Marquis del Pico (Corporal Trim, as we styled him), and about $10,000, but affected by the motion of the vessel to seasickness, nothing could be done, while they answered every offer with an " Ave Maria," and we had to land them again with their money without effecting anything. Mr. Aldunate seems to be a very respectable, keen, old gentleman, said to possess large means and powerful connections in the capital, St. lago, capable and willing to embrace any operation that may offer a fair profit. His usual res- ist o. idence is at Yllapel. Returning on the ist Oct. towards Tongoy, where we anchored once more the next day. Wrote to the Governor of Coquimbo, to Mr. Bayard, who sent an introduction to Mr. Aldunate; sent him also some linen, etc. Rode to Curate's house to deliver the same. Found nobody; Fernando had gone out with 33 - a drove of goats. Went in pursuit on horseback for several hours, but could not find them. 2d. A strange sail working towards Guanaguero; 3 dOct. weighed anchor and stood out. "Adieu Tongoy!" I now take leave of thy lonely shore, the wretched but good-natured inhabitants. You will remember Don Isaac. I feel the sweet consciousness of having estab- lished a good name amongst poor and rich, and take pride in the implicit confidence they all showed me af- ter a little acquaintance. COAST OF PERU. It is now about eight months since we arrived on the coast of Chili, during which our trade has been carried on chiefly at or about Tongoy and with the inhabitants of Coquimbo and neighborhood. Their means seem to be exhausted, or the kind of goods we have left no longer tempt them. We must thus seek a vent for them elsewhere, and with this view we at length take our leave from Chili to try our luck to leeward, on the coast of Peru. Accordingly, on 3d Oct., made all sail to the 3rd Oc t. northward, intending to call first off Santa, in about Lat. 9 S. of the line. With fresh southerly breezes, varying occasionally, we pursued our course till i3th Oct., when we discov- ered for the first time the coast of Peru, to the northward of Lima, and on the i4th, at eleven a. m., came to an- '4 th Oct - chor in the Bay of Santa, about four miles from the land- ing place to E. S. E.; Santa Island bearing South about three miles. Hoisted out the boat, and I immediately started for the shore with the third officer, Mr. Monson. About noon (i5th) landed on a small beach where we saw three men. They received us with apparent kind- ness, and at my request, agreed to conduct me to the nearest town, which they stated to be about half a league distant. After following them a short distance 34 over the beach, they desired us to turn to the left, when I observed a small hut, which owing to its low situation, I had not noticed before. A number of wretches, calling themselves soldiers, now suddenly surrounded us. On inquiry I found that they were headed by the Governor of Santa, Signer Don Jose Coquette, a native of France. He received us under the door with all the coolness he thought entitled to show to Englishmen (their enemies) for which he took us. I tried to undeceive him, but with little effect; nor would he assent to my request for a supply of refreshments, etc. Meantime they consid- ered us as a lawful prize. However, I could prevail on His Excellency to allow me to land the officer on board, in order to fetch the evidence of our mutual character. Meantime I was consigned to the hut. The Signor Coquette was much out of humor, owing to, it seemed, indisposition he labored under, and in consequence of the alarm our appearance has excited all over the neigh- boring country. He gave me, however, some informa- tion about the state of things in Europe, which had so long been strangers to us, and I learned from him that the King of Naples had been dethroned, Beauharnais created Vice- King of Italy, including the T} rol, Three new kingdoms, Baden, Bavaria and Wurtei iburg, cre- ated. The title of the Emperor of Germany changed to that of Emperor of Austria, with much other matter. Some ejaculations of maleditas interrupted his relation from time to time. The boat not returning as soon as expected, His Excellency grew very impatient and talked of sending me to Lima. I can not say that I grieved at it, though I regretted that I should have to appear before the Viceroy in the poor suit I had on. Tired of waiting, the Governor set out with part of his retinue for town, leaving me in charge of about thirty of the motley set called soldiers. They kept me closely confined, even disputing me the door when I wanted to go out to warn the expected boat crew not to expose 35 themselves to a landing 1 . At length the boat returned with a message from the ship. I insisted to take it my- self to the Governor, and was accordingly provided with a horse. A number of soldiers attended me. After a smart ride of half an hour we arrived at Mr. Coquette's quarters in Santa. He would grant no request, but al- lowed me to return to the ship. Previously, however, while dinner was preparing, I was allowed to walk through the town. Prompted by curiosity, without further ceremony, I entered several of the houses, where the ladies received the " Stranger " with a good deal of politeness and affability. In the evening returned to the ship. Not sufficiently discouraged by this defeated attempt, a letter, with proposals, was addressed next morning to the Governor, but he would not listen to anything and even refused the present that accompanied it. They still took us for an English cruiser. Disap- pointed at this first trial, we were now determined to make another at a near port to leeward, called Guan- chaco, for which we sailed on the i$th Oct. Next day, I5t h Oct. having coasted along shore saw a brig at anchor in Guanchaco Bay. Prepared for action. Sent a boat to the strange vessel, which returned with the captain, Don Miguel Del Pixo, of Lima, his vessel, the Candelaria, late from Pisco. Wrote to the Governor of Truxillo to ask for refreshments. In the evening, lyth, dropped an- x 7 th Oct. chor in nine fathoms; the little town and church of Guanchaco bearing east four miles, and the " Belle of Truxillo" (a mountain so called), N. E., Lat. 8 S. i8th, received the answer of the Intendent of Truxillo, refus- ing supplies and communication. Must suppose us to be British. Got some refreshments through the captain of the Candelaria, who came on board with a French gentleman from Lima. Gave us local information. To a second application, iQth, to the Intendant, received a second refusal. Meantime the captain of the Candalaria and a Mr. Leyson held out expectations of trade, but 36 nothing is done, and we are referred to a meeting in five or six days at Pascamayu, twenty-five leagues to lee- 2oth Oct. ward, for which place we accordingly sailed on the 2oth Oct. Following the coast, we have a fair view of the town of Truxillo, its churches, convents, etc. It lays about one league from the beach, and two by land, from Guanchaco, its port. On the 22d, in the evening, came up with a strange sail; when close by the stranger, he hauled down his Spanish colors, and the crew took off their hats and caps in a most trembling manner. Sent a boat to her, which returned with the master and his escribano, Don Ramon Ceras. They were greatly alarmed, taking us for a British cruiser. The vessel proved the schooner Santa Mariana de Jesus, from Con- ception, with a cargo of wine and flour, bound to Guay- aquil. Exchanged some stores and parted from the 26th Oct. Spaniard to keep on our course. On the 26th Oct., in the evening came to anchor in the Bay of Pas- camayu, about six miles from the shore. The Can- delaria was there, but nothing of the promised means to trade. However Captain Del Pico said he would again see his friends at Truxillo and Lambayeque, twenty-five leagues off, and apprize us with the result in a few days. At his request we took charge of a Spanish sailor, who had made too free ashore with "Punulados" and was then anxious to absent himself. Stood out again on the 2pth, when we returned to Pascamayu. Capt. del Pico came on board in his longboat manned with Indians and Choles, and brought us various provisions such as tomatoes, cabbages, carrots, pumpkins, watermelons, salt, sugar, molasses, sheep, etc. But this was all he could do in fulfillment of the expectations he had held out, as his friends were afraid to venture on trade. The question was now agitated what course we ought to pursue. Our several attempts on the Coast of Peru had proved fruitless. On the Coast of Mexico, owing to various reasons we could neither 37 expect much success. The season however was too far advanced to reach China in time to transact our business there, and on the other hand we had still a great part of our cargo to dispose of. Our only resource, thus appeared, to return once more to the Coast of Chili. But as we are again in want of water, and more so of wood having of this scarcely a month's supply, we must first try to supply it. Since none could be had at any of the places we had visited before in Chili. We agreed accordingly to seek for it at the Islands of Marquesas, which lay about 60 degrees off the coast, and I may the more readily have assented to this, from the desire I have to get acquainted with those interesting islands and to obtain relaxation from the fatigue and anxiety endured on this coast, during near nine months. On the 29th of Oct., in pursuance of that determination, we accordingly shaped our course to the westward for the Marquesas Islands. Our passage offers nothing remarkable, with pretty steady winds from the S. and E., our progress was pretty rapid at the rate of 140 to 190, averaging about 165 miles per day. The weather generally fair and pleasant, with few squalls and very little rain. Though our course was in the parallel of about 9^ to the southward of the line the heat was not found great. Whales, porpoises, great number of flying and a variety of other fishes attended us during the whole of the passage. Aquatic birds also were constantly seen, such as "man-of-war hawks," "boobies," etc., while at several times land birds also showed themselves. On the 1 2th Nov. a large flock of juan birds passed us. During the frequent, uncomfortable, rolling of the ship, while carrying steering sails on both sides, the rigging often gave way, showing thus the effect of fourteen months' constant exposure and fatigue. Our fare began to become very poor, and it was during this passage, that the steward, in a crazy fit, served us for a fresh Sunday's meal, the old Cat Tom, made up in a fricasee. 38 On the 2oth day after our departure from the coast of Peru, we descried the Islands of St. Pedro and Dominico 2oth NOV. ahead, and the next day, 2oth Nov., we came to anchor, towards night off Resolution Bay in the Island of Sta. Christiana, having with difficulty approached thus near against the heavy puffs of wind which repulsed the ship. I was, with eager curiosity, examining the rich verdure on shore and the approach of some canoes with natives, who came on board without much hesitation even before we had dropped anchor. They were soon followed by several waheimies (women) richly painted yellow, red, etc., their hair cropped short and standing on end round the forehead, also dyed, which did not show off their good features to advantage. Several Englishmen came also on board, dressed or rather undressed, in the fashion of the country. Supplied them with clothes. In the morning landed on the beach amongst a crowd of Indians, walked up to the chief, who received me with a friendly shake of the hand. Following up the valley by a narrow path along the hill, we arrived at a romantic spot, where an immense number of Indians, of all ages and both sexes, were collected. They had a kind of feast of which a female seemed to be the Queen, as they were figuring around her, while she was seated, or almost buried, wrapped in or surrounded by a pile of their home clothes or stuff of all colors. A number of chief warriors were squatted on the floor, in an immense hut, eating a kind of pap, of sourish taste, while each had his attendant exerting his jaws to chew the "kava" the juice of which they spit from their mouth into cocoanut shells out of which the Chiefs drink it! This kava root thus prepared I understand, furnishes a strong intoxicating beverage, which is taken both to please their palate as well as to act as a kind of medicine for cleansing their skins which, from its effects, peals and falls off in scales. It was a bewildering, almost frightful sight that of those savages, in noisy feasting, surrounded by a few dozen large hogs 39 entire, roasted, hung up round the walls of the hut, while along it were ranged several canoes filled with that kind of pap. I was told that they were to remain together till the whole was devoured! God bless their stomachs. 2 ist Nov., shifted our anchorage to another bay, where 2ist Nov . we laid in about ten fathoms, sandy bottom, about half a mile from the landing and wooding place. Several gangs on shore to cut wood and burn coal, while others are after water, which is to be towed round from Resolu- tion Bay. Our decks crowded with natives, mostly females. Procured cocoanuts, bread-fruit, and plantains of bad quality, in exchange for pieces of iron hoops, knives, etc. Many canoes around the ship, chiefly from Dominico, with few pigs, but they will not part with them except for whale teeth, of which we have none. We cannot get provisions enough to gratify so many greedy appetites. What little fish we get is often eaten raw by the natives. They show a great propensity for thieving, and I have already let them make free with part of my wardrobe. 3cth Nov. Concluded to make an excursion to the 30th Nov Island of Dominico, to try our success at trading for hogs. Prepared for the purpose, pieces of iron shaped like chisels, knives and beads, with which set out in two boats, attended by two of the Englishmen, Walker and Wilson. Coasting along Dominico, the natives invited us to land, but we kept on till we had doubled a point where we entered a narrow cove and came to anchor for breakfast. On landing upon a fine beach, a crowd soon surrounded us, but we could not effect any trade, nor were we sufficiently satisfied of their friendly disposition to be disposed to await the effect of promises, which their signs implied, for a plentiful supply to be brought down. We accordingly stood out of the cove but were soon induced to land again at another point, near some huts. Mr. Monson was bartering and had already paid for some pigs, when I stocked my pockets with beads, 40 etc., and was prepared to follow him. But before I could reach the shore Monson called out for assistance. I saw the women and children retreat to the woods, while the men raised the "war-whoop," and began to fling stones from their slings. One of them wounded Mr. Monson before he could reach his boat, and the battle at once became general, while we were assailed by a shower of stones. We answered by firing off our muskets, but to little effect, while the natives were protected by the rocks along the shore. During the engagement I pulled for a canoe with Indians, who were paddling away for their life, and before we could reach them, they had jumped ashore and were in their turn attacking us with their usual weapons, flinging stones. With several people severely wounded and the boat somewhat shatter- ed, we had to relinquish the fight, not without regret at our inability to chastise them for their treachery. On our way home just after had again landed, at some huts and obtained some refreshments, one of the muskets in Mr. Monson's boat accidentally went off. As I saw the helmsman drop down, I ranged alongside and assisted Monson who was also fainting. On examination I found that the ball had traversed the upper part of both thighs of poor Jackson and the arm of Monson. I dressed the wounds as well as I could, washing them with spirit to guard against mortification, and after a long and fatiguing pull, we at length reached the ship, when the doctor took charge of the wounded. Thus ended this unlucky expedition. Having parted our stream cable, by chafing on the rocks, several of the natives plunged to find the anchor, and one of them succeeded, though in a depth of near ninety feet to attach a rope to it, by means whereof we recovered it again. While off Shitooha, the ship under sail, chase was made on a canoe from Dominico, both by the ship with a smacking breeze, and the whaleboat strongly manned. It was a fair opportunity to admire the good sailing of their doll canoes, and the superior management of the Indians. They escaped in spite of our best efforts, though at one time close iinder the ship, nor would they strike, even on the discharge of a nine pounder right on their heads. At length on the 8th Dec. after near three weeks' detention, we cleared the ship of all our guests, English and natives, to take our departure. But finding that from our want of success to procure supplies, our stock of provisions was reduced to barely four months' supply, which occasioned the crew to 'be put upon short allowance, it was determined to try for better luck, at another of the Islands, the largest of the group and the northernmost, called Nakahsra, for which we sailed on Monday afternoon the 8th Dec. As th Dec. we were leaving Sta. Christiana, a young native came off in a canoe, and wished to be taken on board for America, which was complied with . Our crew was also reinforced by three of the five Englishmen, we had found here, and who shipped with us as sailors; while one of our men, N. Harrison, ran away from the boat at Shitooha and remained behind. Next morning, gib. Dec. at about noon 9th we came to anchor at Nakahsra, in the Port of Anna Maria, in 12 fathoms water, about a mile from the land- ing place ; its surroundings, as well as the fine large valley behind it, are covered with cocoanut, bread-fruit and other trees. During two days' stay here, spent much of the time in excursions on shore, were disappointed in the object of procuring provisions, as little else but cocoanuts and some other fruits would be parted with by the natives, in exchange for what we had to offer them. Discharged here one of the men, M. Bagget, who wished to end his days in these Islands, rather than to be found out and punished as one of the mutineers of the English vessel of war, the * * * whose office'rs had been cruelly dispatched at the Pelen Islands. This group of Islands, in the midst of the Pacific Ocean, lays between latd. 8 and 10 S. 42 Though so near the Equator, the heat was not found excessive, but the temperature generally delightful, and judging from the looks of the inhabitants, the climate appears to be very healthy. The three islands we visited, St. Christiana, Dominico and Nakahsra, have all very high land, intercepted by valleys, where the villages of the natives are scattered, generally well shaded by cocoanut, bread-fruit and other trees. The huts are built with extreme neatness, of reed or bamboos covered with palm and other leaves. They have fine mats to sleep on. For clothing, they manufacture with the bark of trees a variety of stuffs well adapted for use in so warm a climate. The gen- eral covering is only about the loins, but occasionally a piece of cloth is thrown over the shoulders like a cloak. The females wear this sort of cloak with a good deal of taste, and show some coquetry in its arrangement. The inhabitants are a beautiful race, said to be the finest of all the South Sea Islanders. Their size above the com- mon, straight and strongly built. Some of their hand- somest men seemed to take pride in strutting by us, as if to make a comparison, which could not be to our advan- tage. However, in some trials of strength, a few of our picked men succeeded in throwing the Indians, not probably through superior muscular power, but from peculiar address they possessed in wrestling. Though defeated, no marks of ill-humor were shown, and I of- ten had to admire a kind of generous good nature in them. We visited their huts alone and at all times with- out any reserve, and were ever kindly and hospitably received. The females may be less distinguished for beauty than the men: there are however, very hand- some ones amongst them, both for symmetry of form and features. Their hands are peculiarly well shaped; their expression and manner bespeak a good deal of playful- ness. The complexion of the females is generally lighter than that of the men, and in many instances not 43 darker, if not fairer, than that of many European brun- ettes. They are fond of decoration, dress and trinkets; extremely cleanly, though occasionally bedaubing- them- selves with paint and cocoanut oil (to preserve the skin it is said). Free in manner, they are not deficient in a kind of modesty, often, when coming off a swimming to the ship, holding one hand on the head with the "ahuwa- kee," it excited surprise how they adjusted their scanty dress. Not many of the females are tattooed, and those generally only on the inside of the lower lip. With the men it is a mark of distinction ; the nobler the chief, the braver the warrior, the more he is covered with tattoo. Beginning at a certain age, some lines or figures are yearly added to the design, so that many of the men advanced in years are nearly all covered and appear quite black. The chief warrior, Mouina, at Nakahsra, showed a beautiful specimen of the art to which they carry the tattooing, and altogether, in the expression of countenance, deportment and manner, would almost ex- cite admiration. Men and women would, at times, en- tertain us with songs; the former generally keeping measure by slapping their bent arms against the body in a peculiar way. Hogs are pretty abundant on the islands and the chief or only meat the inhabitants eat. We could not get, however a very great supply. They roast them to perfection in holes dug in the earth. The breadfruit grows luxuriously in fine groves through all the valleys. It attains the height of fifty to sixty feet, branching out largely with very long and broad leaves. They give abundance of fruit of the size of about a small melon. Its eaten baked, boiled or roasted, forms a very excellent substitute for bread, and appears an in- valuable product of the Islands. The tarra root, resem- bling a yam, affords one of the principal articles of food. Its cultivation requires much labor and care. Much value is attached to the cocoanut tree, both for the fruit as well as for all the various purposes for which they 44 use its bark or skin. Bananas grow in great variety and make a palatable food. Sugar cane of uncommon size is abundant. Though European and American vessels frequently call here, the natives did not seem to know much of or possess any firearms. In their frequent quarrels or wars, they use the spear, battle-axe and slings, very neatly made of cocoa bark fibres. They have priests, "morais" (sacred ground) and "taboos," images and superstitions. Human sacrifices are often made. There are some tribes said to be cannibals. I incline to the belief, though I had not sufficient means to make myself understood, for inquiring fully into the circum- stance. (?) Singular respect seems to be shown to some particular families or persons, even children, but no dis- tinctive marks were seen for the chiefs, nor do they ap- pear to possess much authority but in war. As swimmers and divers they are most expert. Amongst the few Europeans found here (three of whom came away with us), we distinguished Wilson and Oliver, particularly the latter, a young man who appeared to have enjoyed a good education. They both were determined to remain in the group; left them supplies with liberal presents. Wood could easily be had for fuel. Sandal wood is also found, and has been taken hence to Canton, but we did zothDec n t e ^ an y- On tke IQ th Dec. took leave of the Islands and their friendly inhabitants, standing out of the port of Santa Maria with a light breeze. In the morning Nakahsra was still in sight at a distance, as well as the Robert Islands. Having changed our plans, we now intended, instead of returning to the Coast of Chili, to visit that of Mexico, stopping on the way at the Gallapagos Islands, which lie directly under the Equator. However the winds from the southward and eastward, soon threw us out of the intended line for the Gallapagos, and we accordingly relinquished them crossing the Equator on our way i6thDec. northward, about midnight the i6th Dec. Saw a few 45 turtles floating on the water but could not catch any, also spermacetti whales,porpoises and a variety of aquatic birds. After crossing the line we had torrents of rain in Lat. 5 to 7, with oppressive, sultry weather; the wind now turning to the northward and eastward almost directly ahead. From the scantiness of provisions, their badness, added to exposure to wet, many of our people began to skulk and get sick and our prospects altogether are rather discouraging. The four last days of the year had dull cloudy weather, rather cool with the wind from the northward, on the 3ist Dec., for the first time in five days, we caught the sun to take our latitude, which was ^ 22 38 north, ist Jan. This is the second New Year's xso 7 . day at sea ; it brings little satisfaction with it, other than fine and pleasant weather. We now began to look out for turtles which are said to be abundant towards the Coast of California, and our longing for them was the greater, as our fare began to be miserable, particularly for me, who never eat salt meat, and was thus reduced to worm eaten biscuit, stinking water and now and then a "dumpling" in a soupe maigre, with some old pease, hard enough to shoot albatrosses with. nth, Sunday took one seal and a shark which cut up for dinner. i3th went in pursuit of two turtles, but could not catch them ; sounded, the water having changed to greenish color. At sunrise low land, about ten leagues in the east, which approached with light air very slowly. i4th Jany. We Mth Jan. approach the land slowly in Lat. about 23^ N. the weather beautiful, sea smooth; at last caught two green turtles, they are of about thirty to forty pounds each, and offered excellent feasting. Caught more turtles on the 1 5th. At noon we find ourselves in Lat. 22 44. The nighest land bearing N. N. W. about six miles distant. It consists of moderate hills with fine white sandy beaches, which we take to be Cape San Lucas. As we approach the land looks more hilly, rather barren, with small brushwood. i6th, took and passed many turtles, 4 6 sent a boat ashore to explore a small bay, some leagues to the north of Cape San Lucas, where found good anchorage in 15 fathoms on sandy bottom, but as the bay offered no shelter against the northerly winds, we kept on, looking out for a better harbor; in the morning dispatched another boat towards the first houses we have seen, and which we suppose to be St Joseph ; our lat. 22 53. On return of the boat, understood that the i 7 thjan Governor of California was at the place; on which we came to anchor iyth Jan., at the Bay of St. Joseph, thirty- eight days after our departure from the Marquesas, in 24 fathoms, about three-quarters of a mile from a fine sandy beach, where a stream of fresh water runs down into the sea. Plenty of pelicans around the ship. A jolly Dominican Padre, with an officer, said to be the nephew of the Governor, came on board and confirmed the friendly and polite assurances the Governor had given us, by letter, of kind reception. Obtained some Indian corn, fowls, goats, cheese, sugar cane, etc. Was informed that a ship called the Thalia, Celia, or some such name, commanded by Capt. Schuyler, had left here in July for the Sandwich Islands, and that the well known Capt. O'Cain had also touched here. i8th, in the after- noon, went ashore with the doctor. Welcome California. Got horses and rode up to the village, found Padre with Governor and suite still at dinner, eating sweetmeats, "para bever aqua." While they were taking their Siesta, walked out about to most of the huts. By sunset returned to the beach and on board, to read till late in the night, the newspapers, which the Governor had had the kind- ness to lend me. They were printed at Mexico, from ist to 22d Oct., and proved most interesting to me who had been for 16 months, an entire stranger to what was going on in the civilized world. They informed me, amongst others, of preliminaries of peace, said to have been signed 8th Aug, between England and France Louis Bonaparte entered at the Hague as King of 47 Holland. Hints of the Cape of Good Hope being taken by the English. Clearance from Vera Cruz of the American Schooner Fox, of Baltimore, which would imply that American vessels are admitted there. Peace between Napolean and the Emperors of Russia and Austria, creation of kingdoms of Italy, of Naples. Doubts as to the fate of my poor native land. Dispersion by storm of Willaumez squadron in the W. Indies. Description of the funeral of Pierce killed on the American Coast by a British cruiser, Leander, Cambria, Driver. Excitement in the U. S. against these depreda- tions. British blockade from Brest to the Elbe. Taking of Buenos Ayres by the British, (informed the Governor that it had been retaken by Spaniards). Battle of Trafalgar. Death of Nelson and Gravina. Germany seems to be all in an uproar and about to be remodelled by France. In the morning, i8th, Sunday, went on shore to at- tend mass. My companions having preceded me, I started after them on horseback, at a brisk gait, when a naked Indian, at full speed, ranged alongside of me. I was not aware of his intentions, but putting the spurs to my horse, which was an excellent one, I endeavored to outride him. But he pressed close to me. In casting my eyes back, I perceived that he had got hold of my horse's tail, and before I could make him part his hold down I was thrown, with the horse, while going " venire a terre" The shock stunned me for a moment. On recovering, I found the blood running down over my face, and my body all covered and lacerated by thorns and prickly pears which I had been thrown into. The Indian and my horse had disappeared. I had thus to make my way to the Mission on foot as well as I could. This did not prevent my going to mass like a good Christian. A fiddle and a guitar were playing in the chapel. After mass the Governor and his numerous at- tendants exhibited an interesting spectacle by racing 4 8 their horses and exhibiting on horseback various feats of utmost address. Had also a kind of bull-bait and chase after the cattle with the lasso. Dined with the Padre, Governor, etc., on an olla, an excellent dinner, after which took a ride on horseback, when we went en masse down to the ship, where the whole village and neighborhood were assembled on a fine sandy beach. In conversation with the Governor understood that this part of California possesses plenty of rich mines, but that the want of sufficient means prevented the inhabitants from fully exploring them. Besides copper and lead, silver is said to be abundant, and I was assured of gold having been found in virgin state in lumps as heavy as fourteen pounds. The pearl fishing- is also attended to, and the Padre owns a covered launch, which he sends occasionally with about fifty men, on that business, up the Gulf of California; the pearl oysters are fished at a distance of two to four leagues from the shore, in ten to fifteen fathoms of water. Salted two oxen, and de- sired the Padre to have twenty more jerked, which he says will require four to five days. 2oth, 2ist and 226., as my business would allow, I spent on shore with the Governor, Padre, etc. Had visits on board from gentle - men and ladies, whom treated with a salute and three cheers. The Padre is very fond of playing cards, and does not even disdain to spread his surplice on the beach, in lieu of a table, to play upon while squatted on the sand around it. Playing with him one night at his house I found that he took advantage of a looking-glass, before which he had placed me, to discover my cards, when he could not read them in the signs that were made to him by his housekeeper, who pretended to ad- vise me. 23d to 3ist. Was much engaged on board to trade with Don Juan Gomez, a gentleman from San Antonio, a small place about forty leagues from St. Joseph, and with the Padre his way of dealing almost exhausted 49 my patience. Took leave of the Governor (27th), who set out with his suite to continue a tour through Cali- fornia. That gentleman has shown us many acts of kindness and good- will, and I much enjoyed his com- pany. He rendered himself generally beloved by his polite attentions and the evenness of his mild temper. This Governor formerly commanded at Santa Barbara, now at Monterey, where he had seen La Peyrouse and Vancouver. He has only lately been named to the government of South California, and has his residence at the Presidio of St. Loutio. Amongst his principal attendants were Don Manuel Bargas, Don Juan * * *, the son of the Governor of Guadelaxara, and Don Fran- cisco * * *. ist Feby. "Fandango "at St. Joseph. They have the singular custom of placing on the lady that dances, one, two, or more hats, as a kind of encouragement to go on, till her successive partners, and at length she herself, be exhausted. The lady then returns the hats to each of the owners, who have to redeem it with a present. In this way our gallantry was put to a severe test. 2d Feby., made up my despatches for the United States and Europe, which handed to the Padre under cover of Don Josef Gutierras Cubas, at Vera Cruz. In the evening, all the village came to visit us on the beach. Took leave of those good people; carried a token to Dolores, Maria Jesus, etc. 3rd. The weather being 3rd Feb. calm could not get away, so the Padre came once more to the ship, and I accompanied him back to the hamlet. With another hearty abrazzo, parted at length for good, but not without pain, and on walking slowly down to the beach in the evening, I could with difficulty recon- cile myself to the idea of entering on a new course of privations and hardships on board the vessel. We have now been eighteen months from New York, in which time, I was told on departure, the whole voyage would be accomplished ; instead of this, may have to 50 devote as much more to it, while, badly as the under- taking was contrived, it will be impossible to bring it to that issue which I have been so anxious to insure. REMARKS AT ST. JOSEPH. On the 1 3th January, 1807, we made the coast of California, by daylight, in Lat. about 23^ N. At a distance it appeared like detached rocks and islands. Toward the northward the land is low, but on drawing towards Cape San Lucas, a ridge of mountains running from S. to N. through the Peninsula, may be seen at a great distance. We repeatedly sounded as we approached the coast, but could get no bottom at ten to six leagues with a 1 20 fathoms line. Cape San Lucas is not inhabited, but I was told at St. Joseph, that it has a very fine stream of excellent water; its Lat. about 22 45. We anchored in the Bay of St. Joseph, about seven leagues from the Cape, three-fourths of a mile from a fine sandy beach. A fine stream of fresh water there empties itself and affords a good watering place; but, as the tide flows in it, care must be taken, to fill the casks at a suitable distance from the outlet, else, instead of fresh, one will get brackish water, as was unfortunately our case. While lying here three weeks, we had moderate land and sea breezes, but the bay is very open and only shelters against northerly winds, which alone, in this haven, blow fresh. The bottom is good holding ground, but very steep, so that our anchor laid in 25 fathoms, while the ship tailed towards the shore in 1 3 fathoms. Of provisions, an abun- dant supply may be had at $7 per head or less. If to be salted, the salt must be brought along; what we put up, though in the winter season, already threatens to spoil, probably because we had no saltpetre in the pickle. Vegetables are rather scarce at this season, but in May they begin to be abundant, and melons, pumpkins, sweet potatoes, etc., may then be had. Wood for fuel is not 5' easily obtainable, what is at hand consists almost solely of small bnish and prickly pear; a little inland there are large trees, amongst which mahogany. A chapel, being part of a large stone building in ruins, the Padre's house, and eight or ten huts, form what is called the town of St. Joseph. Houses or huts are scattered in the neigh- borhood, inhabited by Spaniards and Indians, but the population is not considerable, and I do not think that the whole number that come to mass exceeds two hun- dred, of both sexes and all ages. The Padre of this place, Fra Pablo Zarate, is a native of Bilbao, he has lived here fourteen years, and directs all the spiritual exer- cises, he is much feared. The civil authority lies with the Alferes Tramino Gabriel Aquila del real Presidio di Loretto, residing at Saltana, the mines about forty leagues hence. He commands over several missions, each of which has three to four soldiers for protection. The soil of the country appears much variegated but generally favorable to all tropical productions ; it only requires the laziness of the inhabitants turned into industry to afford many objects which would enrich and sweeten their poor indolent exertions. Cotton of good quality grows spontaneously. Cochineal is collected about Saltana without cultivation; but the chief resource of the country are the mines and pearl fisheries. The purest virgin gold is paid $15 per ounce, inferior $8 to $12. Most of all the inhabitants are concerned in the pearl fishery. The best time for fishing is from June to September, in the Gulf, where the launches proceed to the " placeres." The Indians dive for them in six to fif- teen fathoms of water. The crews are on shares and the owners of the boats take the whole of what is caught at the rate of $25 immediately. It's generally disposed of at St. Bias, since the Manila ships no longer touch here. Don Felipe de Goicochea, the present governor, seems well disposed to favor foreign trading vessels, and suitable goods would probably find a vent here, through the channel of the Padre, etc., and by forming connec- tions with persons at Guayana, a considerable place in the bottom of the Gulf. The country about St. Joseph is well stocked with all kinds of game, such as deer, hares, rabbits, etc. We saw them often crossing the path which leads from the beach to the hamlet, and to- wards sunset hares could be shot within a few rods of the habitations at St. Joseph. There are also plenty of pigeons and other birds very tame. The beach abounds with turkey-buzzards, storks, pelicans. Cranes and wild ducks are seen in plenty on the fresh water stream. In the interior lions are said to be by no means -uncommon and the wild cattle will often annoy horses and tra- vellers. The dress of the women consists generally of a blue petticoat of woolen or printed calico with white shift. Around the neck they wear the " marcate," a loose silk handkerchief, and the head is covered with a cloth about two-thirds of a yard wide, generally blue or blue and white, which hangs over their shoulders like a veil thrown back. The ornaments they wear, rudely made bracelets, earrings and necklaces, with other trin- kets, generally of silver and false pearls, which they are very fond of. The men wear short breeches and shirts, stockings, the same as the women, when they can afford them; when on horseback their legs are protected by a piece of deerskin, neatly dressed and figured, which is wrapped round and tied with a garter below the knee. On jour- neys they wear besides a kind of frock coat dressed in the same manner also of deer skin extremely neat, which serves as a very necessary protection against the briars and thorns lining their narrow paths. Indians generally go naked with only a small leather apron in front ; they are of a darker hue than (and a mean race when compared to) the Marquesas Islanders. They are best distinguished from the Spaniards by their want of beard. Their saddles and horse gear are extremely 53 heavy and clumsy. The Spaniards always wear spurs of remarkable size and weight, generally of iron. I have seen many, the wheels of which would exceed three inches in diameter. Snakes are abundant in the brush- wood around St. Joseph, and I have heard many in- stances of persons dying of their bites. Our people killed some rattlesnakes. From November to May they have no rain here. Then the tornadoes come on with the rainy season, which lasts about six months and brings generally three to four heavy showers. VISIT TO THE COAST OF MEXICO. On the morning of 5th Feb., we departed from the bay of St. Joseph and shaped our course to the south- ward and eastward for Cape Corrientes, on the Coast of Mexico. Our intention is to try there for trade previous to attending an appointment with Capt. Gomez, for end of March off St. Bias. With fine weather and light winds from the N. W., we drew towards the Islands of Tres Marias, which saw on the morning of the 6th, and in the afternoon of next day got within a few miles of them, when a boat was sent ahead to look out for anchorage. Towards sundown on the 8th, dropped 8thFeb - anchor about one mile to the N. E. of S. Georges' Island, fourteen fathoms water. It was too late when we landed to see much, as we could take but a short walk over a rough stone beach. In the morning went again ashore, in the hope of finding some game, but the woods are so thick, and with thorny bushes and prickly pears, so impenetrable, that we could but little extend our excursion. Took a guana snake and shot some birds. Saw a few goats, and tracks of herds of them as also of turtles, etc. Tried our luck at fishing off shore, from the ship, but though the fish are plenty, none would take the bait. The calm subsiding, we got under way again on the 9th, passed to the northward of the 54 third or southernmost of the Tres Marias. Like the others it appears of moderate height, well stocked with wood. Plenty of humpback whales and turtles about the ship. The mainland of Mexico in sight, roth. Coasted along shoie, at about six miles some lone huts near a fine white beach, but the surf runs too heavy to allow a landing. Sounded and got bottom with 105 fathoms. Passed nth Feb. Cape Corrientes nth, sent a boat ashore, but could not land, owing to the heavy surf. Lat. 19 35. i2th. With beautiful weather follow the shore to southward at a small distance, sounded in 13 fathoms. The land pre- sents dry barren hills without signs of cultivation. i3th. Passed a large bay probably that of St. lago, showing trees and verdure in the bottom. Caught many turtles? some of them contained hundreds of eggs. They are about the volume of hen's eggs, quite round with soft shell. Wind nearly calm. i4th; at noon observed in Lat. 1 8 3'. This is about the spot Mr. Wilson spoke of at the Marquesas Islands, as having obtained refreshment and encouragement to trade. 1 5 th. Sent a boat to explore a bay before us, came to in 15 fathoms water, about three quarters of a mile from the nighest shore on a bottom of sand and shells. With a view to reconnoitre we started for the shore. The surf was running very high and while shooting in on the top of a wave, the boat was pitched over on striking the beach, and we had great difficulty in extricating ourselves. M. P. dislocated his foot in the shock. About a dozen Spaniards or Indians were looking on. They gave us various and contradic- tory information. I was confirmed in my suspicion as to the little faith to be placed in it by an old man, who took me aside and whispered that an express had been sent to Colima, a considerable town about one day's journey, where guards would indubitably be sent on here. They promised us however some refreshments ; by night returned to the ship. In the morning sent the long boat for water, which they got near a fine stream, pass- ing close by the huts in the bottom of the bay. 55 1 6th. Got a load of excellent lemons and limes, pumpkins and some fowls. From all I can gather our appearance seems to have excited the usual alarm. A small town is said to lay a few leagues inland, the country around appears but thinly inhabited. Bought for 3d the skin of a tiger that was killed a few days ago on the beach. Numbers of alligators were observed by one of our boats in a neighboring creek. i yth. Went again ashore but could get no satisfactory information from the people. They are certainly the most wretched set we have met with as yet, few of them we have seen have any shirts and many of them wear only a leather apron, throwing a kind of old rag over their shoulders calling it a "poncho." The only furni- ture I saw in the huts consists of some earthem pots, a stone to grind on the maize for "tortillas," with a shabby hammock made of twine. Got off a cow for $10. In the afternoon got under way, standing to the south- ward, and during the night had the view of an eruption of a volcano right ahead. In the morning the country assumed a better appearance. It looks level, fine, green towards the shore, and high mountains in the back- ground. A village of about forty huts near the beach and many inhabitants on foot and on horseback about it. Prepared a letter for the Governor of Colima. 1 8th. Sent a boat on shore and learned that the place l8th Feb - was called Cuaguallana; that a considerable town was not far off; and that the distance to Colima was about twelve leagues inland. Kept on to the southward for the port of St. Elmo; in search of it sent another boat for the shore, but the surf prevented landing and a sailor swam to the shore. Could collect but little infor- mation from about twenty people assembled there. The country about here is very hilly and presents nothing pleasant. The volcano is still smoking. Supposed Lat. 18 36'. 1 9th and 2oth Feby. Continue to look out for a har- 56 bor, retracing our steps northward for what we suppose to be San Juan de Lima, having hove to about two miles off shore, Lat. 19 40'. A boat was dispatched for the 2istFeb. shore on Saturday, 2ist Feby. From the report of the officer on his return, I was induced to land myself, which was effected about four o'clock, in company with Mr. Monson. An officer with about thirty horsemen re- ceived us on the beach. He much urged me to proceed with him to the town, which he said to be near by, assur- ing us that we should get back before night. I accord- ingly mounted a horse, and accompanied by Monson, followed our leaders. We soon came up with another troop of about forty horsemen armed with spears. Our way led through a wood over a narrow rough path. Af- ter an hour's smart riding, seeing no appearance of the town, my suspicions began to get pretty strong. It was impossible, however, even if we had entertained the wish, to retrograde and we therefore kept on briskly till seven in the evening, when we reached a village. Here we were led to the Commandant, Don Josef Bal- duino, who received us very politely, but after some conversation with one of our leaders, signified that we should not return on board, but had to consider our- selves as prisoners. All expostulations proved useless, and the only thing we could obtain was permission to send an order to the boat crew and a letter for the ship ; but they were never forwarded. We were now con- signed to a kind of barn, a storehouse, standing in the captain's courtyard where we remained until our release on the 6th of March, for a fortnight. Our quarters were very uncomfortable, having neither bed nor bed- ding. We were too much afraid of the scorpions to lay down on a heap of cotton that was piled up in a corner and we had thus to content ourselves with a bench and a table to lie on for the whole time. In other respects we were well treated; every morning Donna Josephina, the captain's daughter, sent us chocolate with hot cakes 57 of maize (tortillas) and our table was supplied with what- ever the place afforded. Some soldiers ostensibly guarded us, but we were indulged occasionally with a walk for exercise, attended by them, and received also the visits of many of the inhabitants. The day after our arrival Don Louis Antonio Gutierez Temente de la Sga. Div'n. etc., arrived from Colima to examine us, and he soon was followed by a more important character in the person of Don Jose Perez de Acal Sugento Major, attended by a numerous suite, who had come all the way from Guadalaxara on our business. After many discus- sions and a good deal of correspondence with the Gov- ernor of the province, we were at last liberated and al- lowed to return to the ship. I cannot say that the issue gave me much pleasure. I felt pretty indifferent as to what course might be pursued with me, confident to get along in some way or other even if I were to be sent to Mexico, as they all along hinted. In fact at one time, when there was much doubt as to the result of our ne- gotiations, I urged Monson, who began to get disgusted, to try the execution of a scheme for making his escape by bribing some of the guards, wishing myself to remain behind, but he would not agree to leave me alone. The place we were thus detained is called Cuagual- lana. It is about seven leagues to the northward from the port of St. Elmo, where the ship was anchored. When we were there it consisted of about one hundred houses or huts, part of them were, however, only temporary buildings, raised for the accomodation of traders, etc., who were down here at the time at a kind of fair, to buy up the cotton that is collected in the neighborhood. I saw it carried off on large droves of mules. It sold at $2.50 to $3.50 "per aroba," with the seed giving when cleaned about 8 to 10 Ib. net. It is disposed of at many inland towns at double its cost. This cotton appears the only article of production for commerce, nor is there an abundance of articles of more immediate 58 necessity, cattle excepted, and vegetables, fruit, etc., are scarce. Tortillas of maize and beans are the chief food of the inhabitants. In fact I was told that throughout Mexico, for rich and poor, tortillas and lentizas were the only supper. The inhabitants consist chiefly of aborig- ines, some Creoles and a few Gachupins (native Span- iards) amongst which Don Gabriel Berni and Don Antonio Aguerro showed us much friendship. One of them wished much to induce me to remain in the coun- try, and even went so far (jocosely, I must suppose) to offer to marry me with his daughter, if I would make myself a Christiano. They called us pobres hereticos, and the good old lady of Capt. Balduino often lamented on our fate. They all, without exception are much addicted to gambling, which they practised day and night at about twenty tables, set up for the purpose, in a square, covered with sheds and boughs and surrounded by dry goods and dram shops. Albaro or Monte is the predominant game. I tried my luck at it, after we were liberated, and soon lost the ten to fifteen doubloons which I had in my pocket. The Subdelegado (or Governor) a Gachupin (Spaniard) superintends the Civil Administration, Don Francisco Alvarez; and the military is under the direction of Capt. Don Josef Balduino, our hospitable host. About a year ago a violent earthquake had done much damage here as well as in the neighbor- ing towns, in one of which Zapotlan, at about four days' journey, near a thousand persons were killed or mutilated while at church. Colima is the nearest town of import- ance to Cuaguallana, at about twelve leagues distant. It's said to contain about 25,000 souls. Thence to Guadalaxara, capital of the province, called the Adiemia, where the President resides, it is sixty leagues. Obtained the perusal of some newspapers, printed at Mexico, in December and January. They alluded to the dispute of the U. S. with France about Louisiana. A famous battle where the French overthrew the 59 Prussians, and their whole kingdom, etc. Horses and cattle, the same as along these shores, are plenty here and cheap. They also have many mules, which are much more esteemed than horses, and paid as high as $10 . Fowls, pigs, and more inland, sheep, etc., are also abundant. So is also game of all kind. Of beautiful birds and parrots I have seen many. The beaches are covered with turkey buzzards, cranes, storks, flamingoes, etc. Alligators cover some of the neighboring creeks. I heard many sad instances of their audacity and voraciousness. Tigers are also met with; and serpents, with other venimous reptiles, are by no means scarce. The place where the ship laid is an open bay called St. Elmo, in Lat. 1 8 39 S. It has good holding ground but extremely uneven. We were anchored in fifteen to eighteen fathom water about two miles from the shore, the burn- ing mountain of Colima bearing * * * The prevailing winds were from S. W. to N. W., with a sea breeze generally in the day but never so strong as to endanger the ship. A pretty considerable fresh water stream, which passes by Cuaguallana empties itself over the beach, near some fishing huts, but a supply of water could not, without some difficulty be had, from it, owing to the surf that generally runs very high and renders landing always difficult, and the getting off of water casks, next to impossible. Indeed the place offers little inducement to stop at, either for trade or provisions. I would much prefer the Bay of St. lago, near by, as offering in every respect more advantages, being also nearer to the only considerable town, Colima. During our confinement on shore, I improved my time to best possible advantage for obtaining the object that had attracted us here. I succeeded in forming some connections with prospects to effect some business of moment, but what we had left of. our cargo, though still considerable in amount, did but so little suit their actual wants, that they would, after all, not incur the risk of 6o infringing strict orders which had been sent from Colima to prevent all trade. However those intrusted with the execution of those orders did not conceive that they themselves should forego the chance of making some purchases, which, the Illustre Major, who spent a night on board for that purpose, pretended to be merely to please some friends at Guadalaxara. If disappointed about trading, we were on the other hand freely indulged by permission of the Governor, with an ample supply of all kinds of provisions, refreshments, stores, etc., which we obtained through Don Luis to the amount of upwards of $500. Don Santiago Fernandez had given me good hopes to effect some business, but he as well as several others, who occasionally came to the ship, and whom I also saw on shore, finally relinquished the attempt. nth March. Having promised Capt. Balduino to pay him another visit before departure, I set out, in the afternoon, with Don Luis, Augustin, etc. for Cuaguallana, where remained till Friday i3th; when took a hearty leave of all those good people, who had received me as an enemy and from whom I parted as a friend. After having spent here about a month to very little isth March. purpose> at length on the i8th March, we took our de- parture from Cuaguallana and St. Elmo, to proceed to our appointment with Don Gomez off St. Blaz. Finding however that our stock of water had been re- duced to forty casks, we determined to look for a supply at the Bay of St. lago, which owing to light wind and calms, we could not reach before the evening of the 2oth March. 2oth, when we anchored in nineteen fathoms. While a party was watering we had a visit from some Indians. A boat went out oystering and brought us a large supply 2 2 nd March, of excellent oysters. On the morning of the 22d March, Sunday, stood out of St. lago Bay, the Lat. of which had again made 19 5', and continued our course to the northward. 23rd to 25th. Had fresh winds from the N. W. 6i increasing almost to a gale, which take for the equin- oxial storms. Beat to the northward slowly. 27th. The southermost of the Tres Marias in sight. 28th. Get between two of the Islands, stand along St. George's where a fine white beach extends all along the shore, the land rising gradually to moderate hills, thickly covered with wood. 29th. Come to anchor off Prince George's, (the middle 29th Marrh Island) nothing of the friend who was to meet us here from St. Blaz to be seen. 3oth. In hopes to learn something at St. Joseph's we conclude to stretch over with a fresh gale from the N. N. W. and a rough sea, which however was not of long duration. Light winds and calms succeeding, our progress has been but slow, and we did not reach our anchorage at St. Joseph, before the evening of the 4th 4 th April, of April, after having experienced first a smart gale at the entrance of the Gulf of California. The Padre gave us a friendly reception in the morning on the beach, and took us up to the Mission to dinner. All our acquaintances expressed equal satisfaction at our return. The small means they have collected during our absence were converted again into purchases of goods, and we got a fresh customer in Don Vincente Ortigosso, (a Gachupin) who came on board on the 7th, and soon after his little sloop, the Guadalupe, came in and anchored near us. Heard of the Conception a Spanish 30 gun ship laying in Loretto, and the Princessa, etc., at St. Blaz. We have reason to think that our head car- penter, a Frenchman, and T. S. who ran away from the ship, during our former visit, are skulking about here under the protection of the padre. Were also informed that the person, who had appointed the meeting for end of March, near Tres Marias, had left the Caralba, about forty leagues hence in his sloop bound to St. Blaz. Accordingly, after five days' stay at St. Joseph, we depart- ed pth April in quest of him. On the nth, anchored off 9 thA P ni. 62 1 3 th April. i4th April. t6th April. the northernmost of the Tres Marias ; parted a cable during night and had some trouble to regain our anchor- age. 1 2th. Under sail between the Islands, sent a party to pitch a tent on shore, but they returned, not finding a suitable place at the northernmost Island. 1 3th. Stood for the middle St. George's Island where we landed Mr. Monson with seven men, supplied with ten days provisions, to cut wood and burn coal, while we intend to look into St. Blaz. Cut some lignum vitae and amongst driftwood on the beach, found red cedar of a strong odoriferous smell. 1 4th. Standing in for the main with light winds ; during the night calm and foggy. In the morning saw a sail under the shore, which fired a gun and hoisted colors, but could not distinguish them. 1 5th. Off St. Blaz about four leagues. The land to the N. W. extends very low covered with trees which appear on a level with the sea. The white rock " Pedro de Mar " bears about N. W. by N. two leagues distant. Some houses are seen in the harbor and a flag flying on a staff. Fired a gun, hoisted American colors and sig- nal ; the ship seen yesterday still at her station making also signals, but nothing of Signor Gomez. To the eastward the land is bounded by hills, of which one, towards S. E. is pretty high and remarkable, and altogether the aspect of the country is agreeable. The town appears elevated on a fine plateau, and from its airy situation, one can scarcely account for its reputed insalubrity. However, at the distance of two or three leagues no correct judgment can be formed. Relin- quishing all hopes of the meeting at the rendezvous, stood off again for Tres Marias, where we anchored the next day, i6th April. Our party had made some prog- ress in cutting wood and raising the coalpit, but several days were required to complete the work. They have pitched their tent under a handsome natural bower, 63 quite a pleasant spot, where our sick are also recovering strength. Plenty of parrots are flying about, humming birds and a variety of other fine birds. No quadrupeds except one fox, as we took it to be; a great many guanas are found in or about old decayed trees. Fried parrots for dinner, but they are detestable food. While ram- bling about the Island found some cotton shrubs, and wild lemons. Caught about a dozen young turtles, just out of the shell on the beach. They are said to be of the hawksbill kind, the shell of which is so much esteemed. It consists of fourteen pieces, six in the center down the back and four on each side. 23d April. Mr. Monson entertained us under his bower ashore with a splendid dinner, a roast fowl and jerked beef, snails and anchovies fished amongst the rocks. Our people on shore are taken with vomiting, which attribute to some unwholesome qualities of a kind of snails or welks, which they picked up amongst the rocks and ate. A raccoon has been caught. Found no water on the island but beds of streams where it may run in the rainy season. The trees are of various kinds; many large enough for moderate sized lower masts; our people have cut considerably of lignum vitse and cedar. Our stock of fuel as well as coal being completed, at length after ten days' work, on the 23d April, it was taken off, and on Friday the 24th we cleared the island ^ A P riI - with a N. W. breeze, standing to the westward. This is the last sight I expect to have of this coast and of the west side of America, from which we part at length with smiling countenances. The satisfaction I partake of is however much damped by the want of complete success to our undertaking, but I have done my best during fourteen months that we have now been in these seas, and have the consciousness of having fulfilled all that could be accomplished under the ob- stacles and difficulties of all kinds I had to contend with. Meantime we carry off a good part of our out- 64 ward cargo, such as would not suit the countries we visited and ought never to have been taken on board, to the amount of Our course is now for Canton, about nine thousand miles distant, as we have to traverse in its breadth, the whole Pacific Ocean, near 150 degrees. On the way we intend to call at the Sandwich Islands, and expect to reach China in August. The 25th April being the day after our departure from Tres Marias, we observed at noon in Lat. 19 25'. Next day spent some hours in the quest of the island of So- coro, but we could not see it, owing, no doubt, to the haziness of the weather. With light winds mostly from the northward and westward, our progress was but slow during the first twelve days, but having now on the ;th May fairly got into the N. E. trade winds, we advance more rapidly, which compensates in some manner for the monotony of the passage, and may, I hope, defeat the prognostics of a long passage which our seamen had drawn from the circumstance of many sharks being about the ship. They are always attended or rather preceded by a small fish that seems to serve them as pilot, and has derived its name accordingly. A rather unpleasant discovery was made in the head of our mainmast being sprung and the mast itself materi- ally decayed. We hope, however, that with the fishes applied for strengthening the same and other supporters, it may stand to carry us to Canton. Our course contin- ues in the parallel between 18 and 19 North, on a line with the Isle of Owhyhee, which according to our reck- oning we ought to have been up with on the iyth May. May. On the evening of the i8th we first discovered its high top reaching to the clouds. As night closed in clearly distinguished the flames issuing out of a volcano. A smart gale from the E. N. E. brought us under close reefed topsails, with which we doubled the south point, and in the morning ranged along the island towards the 65 northeast. No signs of inhabitants as yet. The land is hilly, rather barren, but of pleasing aspect. The sun dispelling the clouds we have the prospect of a fair day. As we neared the shore some canoes came along- side with Indians bringing us sugar-canes, cocoanuts and sweet potatoes. The females are not backward in com- ing on board; for looks and manners they appear much inferior to those of the Marquesas Isles. Their black hair is cropt short, raised on end around the forehead, and bleached to a reddish hue, by no means agreeable. The men seem to be fond of smoking, several of them have pipes and green tobacco leaves. Becalmed off the district of Kauai, our visitors increase and many spend the night on board. Almost all the men have lost some of their front teeth, as if forced out. 1 9th. As we stand along shore we passed by several nice villages situated amongst the shade of cocoanut and other trees. Through the means of a native from the island, who had shipped with us in New York, I learn that Tamaahmaah possesses a navy of twenty-five ves- sels, amongst which one large ship. He left this island (Owhyhee), the largest of the group, with all the chiefs, in search of conquest of the other islands, appointing an Englishman of the name of Young, for his viceroy dur- ing his absence. Harry (our native sailor) met with his uncle and who informs him on the state of his family. In the afternoon of Wednesday, the 2oth May, about 20th two o'clock came to anchor in Karakakova Bay, half a mile from a sandy beach and a mile from the village. The nearest shore, a high abrupt bluff, being about one quarter of a mile distant. We have thus employed on this passage of about fifty degrees of longitude twenty- six days. There were about sixty canoes around the ship, with men only, it being " taboo " for the females. One of the natives, Poo, brought recommendations from various vessels as a good washman, and we accordingly intrusted him with our linen. Sent a message to Mr. 66 Young, who resides at the distant point of Ticaigh, to in- vite him to come on here. In the evening, went on shore to visit several villages and two watering places, where brackish water can be gathered in wells in but small quantity. A schooner of thirty-six foot keel is in the stocks and some Indians working at it. 2ist. Plenty of canoes round the ship, and the decks crowded with females, their Taboo being raised. The supply of provisions is scanty, consisting only of some dunghill fowls, cocoanuts and very little bread fruit (it being out of season). Visited the shore again, I under- stand that Tianna, a chief much spoken of by Vancouver was shot by Tamaahmaah. Kahenmotor also is dead. A large double canoe came round the point and entered the bay at seven in the morning, and soon after we had the pleasure to see the Viceroy, Mr. Young, on board ; in his suite I distinguished his lady, a niece of Tamaah- maah, who for looks and manners, appears much superior to any of the sex yet seen here ; a young man from Boston, who was left here about six weeks ago by a northwest ship, commanded by Capt. Hurge, also came along. Mr. Young is a respectable looking and appears a very sensible old man of about * * * He soon pro- mised to provide for all our wants, and had arrange- ments made for our sick being lodged on shore, in some of the king's habitations. The carpenter is dispatched with some Indians to the mountains, for a suitable stick, to repair our mainmast I understand that the loss of the foreteeth, before noticed, arose from Tamaahmaah, after his conquest of Movid, having received intelligence of a rebellion broken out there, in a fit of passion he knocked out half a dozen of his teeth, which example his warriors considered themselves bound to follow, throwing themselves down on the ground with their jaws open. The operation was performed on the whole of them, in rapid succession, with the aid of a chisel and mallet. 6 7 Tamaahmaah is said to possess about two thousand muskets, twenty carriage or ship, guns, a ship formerly the Ldia Bird (an American), several large three masted schooners, besides small vessels of twenty to fifty tons. He now resides, with his chiefs, at the Isle of Oahu, whence he contemplates an attack on Attowai, the furthest and westernmost of these Islands, which re- fuses to acknowledge his authority. When the Indians go to war, they are attended by their whole families, wife and children. 22d May. Two Russian discovery ships, of Cronstadt, of twenty and thirty guns visited these Islands about two years ago. A Russian gentlemen from Kodiak, also lately came here from the northwest coast, in an Amer- ican brig, to procure supplies for a party of Russians engaged in hunting otters, etc. The Russian settle- ments are said to extend to Norfolk Sound, where they have had serious affrays with the natives. 23rd. Started at daylight for an excursion in the mountains. The village we first landed at has become famous from the circumstance of Capt. Cook having been killed there in 1779, m an affray with the natives. Two Indians attended us as guides, and to carry some refreshments. After a long walk, much uphill, we rested about nine in a wood, near some huts, to break- fast on an excellent roast fowl, cooked by the natives in their superior style, with heated stones, in holes dug for the purpose in the earth. Continuing our excursion we did not return to the ship till the afternoon, by descend- ing through the valley behind Karahakooh village, well pleased and much fatigued with our day's work. The land we saw and walked over is generally very strong, with good rich soil, amongst it, but the whole island consists of one principle mountain, of conical form, with regular and generally steep ascents, which renders cultivation very laborious. The land is much divided into small lots, or 'parcels, carefully separated by stone 68 walls or a hedge of sugar-cane, which grow to immense size. The paper-mulberry tree, taro-root, yams, etc., potatoes, with a few bread fruit and plenty of cocoanut trees are the principal productions we observed. Radishes and onions also grow in plenty. But upon the whole, the country exhibits a great want of hands to im- prove it. The depopulation is evident and may, in some manner, be accounted for, by the absence of the chiefs and warriors, and still more for a kind of epidemic or yellow fever, said to have been brought to these Islands a few years ago, and which makes dreadful havoc amongst the natives. Sunday morning, few canoes to be seen as all the people have been ordered off by Mr. Young, to bring down the wood for fixing the mast. 25th May. The whaleboat had a race with a canoe, with four paddles, on which the former got the better, but not without great exertions. The Indians are very fond of betting and will put all their property at stake. They play a game, with black and white stones, much like draughts, in which Mr. Young's lady is a great pro- ficient. Mr. Young tells me that the cow and calf we had seen pasturing on the hill, when entering the bay, had lately been brought here from the north-west coast of Amer- ica; that those (the cattle) left here by Vancouver were much increasing, but running wild in the woods. Sheep are also multiplying, and a few goats were offered in traffic. 27th. Found the mainmast so much decayed that had to take it out and have to procure a still larger stick to repair it, which will subject us to long detention. 28th. A general taboo for all the natives, which hail as a breathing time. 2Qth. Began to salt on shore some hogs. The process is the same as in America, only that here all the bones are first taken out. But the supply of pork we may procure is likely to prove inadequate to our wants. The island has been much exhausted by 6 9 northwest traders and by vessels from Botany Bay, which come here on purpose to put up pork. They have paid such exorbitant prices that the natives are overstocked with all kinds of commodities, and will thus not part with their live stock unless they can do it to greater ad- vantage than we can reasonably afford. I am told by Mr. Young, and must believe him, that a greatcoat, a cask of powder, were often given for a hog. What seems most in demand now is sail cloth, tar and pitch, for his Majesty's navy. Specie, say Spanish dollars, are also in request, but whether they are all destined for the king, or whether some of the white people of the islands speculate there- on, through the natives, I cannot well ascertain. Con- versing with Mr. Young on Capt. Vancouver's expedi- tion at Oahu, we touched, amongst other topics, on that of the execution of the murderers of Capt. Hergest. I was surprised to hear that notwithstanding the pains taken to punish the guilty only, Capt. Vancouver was misled and deceived; the three men he had executed be- ing quite innocent of the crime laid to their charge. Mr. Young tells me further that some time afterwards, he was on board an American vessel belonging to Mr. Brown, of Providence, when one of the murderers came, with other natives, alongside, on which the captain be- ing informed of the fact, had the man taken and hung to the yard-arm of his vessel till death followed. Put the ship under taboo that all the natives may go after the mast. 3oth. A white man visited us. He commands one of the king's schooners, now loading at Toeigh with tribute consisting in cloth and cordage, to be carried to Oahu, for the king's use. 3 1 st. Last night one of our men happened to step inadvertently on the taboo ground, on which he was immediately seized by a swarm of holy guardians or priests, who confined him till the taboo had expired this 70 morning at sunrise. A great many females c<5me swimming to the ship. During the night had a strong fit similar to those I have experienced several times during the voyage. The last about five months ago. It must have been very violent since the Doctor found it necess- ary to bleed me at the arm. I feel no other effects than a bitten tongue, and some bruises from the fall out of my hammock on the gun and floor. June ist to 6th. Another periodical taboo for the females, which, like the former, lasts two nights and one day. Provisions come in very scantily, and our people begin to get clamorous for want of meat. Went to see the process of getting down the timber for the ship's mast ; about three hundred people are dragging it with ropes, from a distance of six to eight miles down steep mountains, over gullies, rocks and most rugged ground. They are preceded and attended by priests, who utter prayers and songs to help the work. It is altogether a curious sight. An express from Oahu, with orders fiom the king to Mr. Young, arrives. The chief priest, a fine young man, has allowed us to pass over the Taboo ground, (a great favor). I observed the spot where Cook's and other observatories were erected. Some of their rude stone images are on it. A messenger sent by Mr. Young to Toeigh, brought us some American newspapers; they are up to January, 1806, only, but still afford much interest. Notice Miranda's expedition in Mr. Ogden's ship Leander. Switzerland to become a kingdom. Prussia joins France against England. No prospect of peace. yth. Slow progress and anxious to get off. The water taken here is not fit for use, and our daily wants are supplied by what the natives bring us, in calabashes from the mountain. June 8th. Some of the native carpenters assist in repairing the mast. They do not understand to handle our tools, nth. The high priest favored us with a visit on board, but their custom would not allow him coming down into the cabin, nor does he pass under any shed or covering, except in his own house ; he could not even come under the awning or tent, that was spread on the deck as a shelter against the rays of the sun, and a mattress had to be laid down for him and his lady, for the night, in the open air under the canopy of heaven- He will partake of nothing cooked at our fire ; even to light his pipe, a candle or coal will not do, but he would only use the fire struck with flint and steel. 1 3th. Mrs. Young, who has lived for some time on board with her husband, retired this morning to the high bluff near the well, where a temporary shed had been raised for her with cocoanut leaves. It seems that during certain indisposition the females are obliged, un- der pain of death, to withdraw for some days to the woods or some solitary secluded spot. Went to the south point to see the natives amuse themselves in their " surf boards." The surf rolls in from several miles in im- mense waves, on which they throw themselves upon a long smooth board and thus shoot in amongst the rocks on the breakers like lightning. It is a fine exercise, in which the natives show their skill as swimmers to great advantage. They are equally good divers. They have repeatedly brought up a piece of iron thrown into the sea along the ship in fifteen to twenty fathoms depth, and Mr. Young has assured me that they will dive to the bottom in forty fathoms (240 feet). On the igth we got safely our mast on end again, no easy operation in an open bay, the vessel rolling much. We are prepar- ing getting under way, but it does not proceed as we could wish. A number of articles, such as kayar rope, tapers, etc., are sent on board to be carried to Oahu for the king's stores. At length, on the 23d, the deck was 23 d June, cleared of the numerous visitors who had more or less encumbered us during five weeks' stay at Karakakooah. '. Some took to their canoes, but many, chiefly the females, 72 merely jumped overboard and swam still about the ship till she was fairly out of the bay. But we continue still very crowded, having on board Mr. Young, his lady and suite, to be landed at Toeigh ; the high priest and his two wives, and some other natives who wish to be car- ried to Oahu. 24th. As we draw from the island (Owhyhee), we discover in all their grandeur the Mount Worroway and Mount Kaah. 2 th Tun ^ n ^ e 2 5^> we * ^ Toeigh in sight of Mr. Young's habitation, but it blew so fresh that we could not come to anchor before evening, about three miles from the shore. We soon went to Mr. Young's habitation, where he entertained us very hospitably during most part of the night. This Bay of Toeigh is very open; an exten- sive reef runs near it nearly level with the water, and altogether it is no inviting place to anchor at. The coun- try around it looks like a hilly barren desert; nothing grows within ten miles of it, except a few cocoanut trees, of which a fine grove stands near the beach. The in- habitants and huts are thinly scattered along the shore, far less numerous than about Karakakooah, and seem more indigent, indeed, having to go so far for their sub- sistence, they are not seldom in want of the supports of life. Mr. Young occupies several stone buildings, which are the best (save those of the king, built on the same plan but now shut) I have seen in this island. Amongst his family I noticed a fine boy, George, seven years old, and Sally, his sister, of twelve years, both children of a white man, Davis, who is with the king at Oahu. These two children had been left to the care of some Indians, when Mr. Young very humanely took them to his own house, where they were treated the same as his own lit- tle babe. Besides this, Mr. Young has two sons, whom he sent some time ago to the United States for educa- tion. 26th. Visited several salt ponds or pans, the arrange- ment of which displays much industry and ingenuity. 73 Noticed also two remarkable "morays," built by Ta- maahmaah during his two years' stay at this place; the king being obliged to build annually at least one moray, and most of the chiefs are under similar obligation. While on shore the natives launched from the beach two royal schooners of about forty tons, destined to carry supplies to headquarters at Oahu. Returned to the ship in a double canoe, manned by twenty Indians, who re- turned the three cheers with which we finally took our leave of worthy Mr. Young and his noble lady. Mr. Tyler also here parted from us. He is an interesting young man, whose company has been a great resource to me and I should be happy to meet again with him in another part of the world. Only two of the numerous guests that had embarked with us at Karakakooah now remained to proceed to Oahu. On leaving the Island of Owhyhee (which is near three hundred miles in circumference, and is the largest of the Sandwich group, and, I believe, of Polynesia) I would observe that I have been disappointed in many respects, particularly as to its fertility and population. The soil within several miles of Karakakooah is strong and barren ; the raising of the taro, yams, potatoes, etc., their principal food, is attended with great labor, and their fields lay at considerable distances from the habita- tions. There is an appearance of great decrease in the population, which has already been accounted for, as arising from mortality, through epidemic and the absence of the king with all the chiefs. Provisions are to be obtained at greater trouble and expense than I had any idea of. While at anchor at Karakakooah we bought about 100 pigs or hogs, which we paid, some in specie, at the rate of $4.00 each ; in scarlet broadcloth (costing $2.50 to $3.00 per yard) for two to three yards ; common Chintz furniture Creas, (linen sheeting), of about three shilling per yard, at the rate of ten to twenty- four yards per hog, according to size. Potatoes, yams 74 and taro, at the rate of one common jackknife for five small bundles, about half a bushel. Cocoanuts 20 to 25 per knife, and plenty of sugar-cane, some onions, cab- bage and a few water-melons. Our anchorage is a pretty secure one and the best in this Island. A heavy surf often broke on the rocks and beach, and boats were repeatedly swamped in attempting to land on the beach; but there are spots between the rocks, where at all times a boat may get in, wood and water are to be fetched from far and will cost dear. We have to pay for our daily supply of water, brought from the mountains, at the rate of four to five calabashes full for a knife. Toeigh is too poor and would rather receive than grant supplies. Mr. Young resides here; he has the chief and sole command over the whole Island. No chief is allowed to remain on it during the king's absence. Since the decrease of the northwest trade, these Islands are less visited than heretofore. In seven years only one English ship, the Port au Prince, a privateer, called here, but the Americans always have been and still are the best customers, as they also supply the king with most of his wants. The weather, as far as I experienced during a month's stay at Karakakooah, was warm, generally fair, the heat, tempered by a land and sea breeze, and the climate altogether is pleasant. The inhabitants are mild and inoff ensive, their inter- course with whites has not, I apprehend, improved them any ; in size and make they are inferior to those of the Marquesas. Like them they tatoo, and the females often only the tip end of the tongue. 27 thjune. 27th 28th June. With light airs, stood out towards Oahu, passing the Isles of Mani, very high land, and Kanai. As we beat up towards Whyteetee Bay, several canoes come off, with white men, amongst them Mr. Davis, who assisted in bringing the ship to a good berth, in a large open bay about two and a half miles from the shore, and one mile from the bar within which his 75 majesty's ship Lelia Hirdrode at anchor. Were told that a taboo prevented the King, etc., from visiting us that day. 29th. Went on shore with some Englishmen, etc., who took us to their houses, where they displayed beer and a kind of gin, a spirituous liquor distilled of the tea root, said to be drank freely in these Isles. On the beach of Fairhaven Harbor, about twenty carriage guns were ranged and several sloops and schooners were under shed for repairs. The King's residence is at Whyteetee, a little distance from the village where we landed. The soil looks fertile, not strong as at Owhyhee, and plenty of water not far off. In the morning we are told that the King would accept of a salute. He does not seem much pressed to come on board, as we see him in his canoe, at some distance, amusing himself with fishing. His brother, (father of Mrs. Young), first came onboard with several other chiefs, but save their superior size, they are not known by any distinctive signs. About eight, a large double canoe came in view, on which were about twenty chiefs and warriors, all superbly decked out in brilliant mantles or cloaks, made of yellow and red feathers, with helmets of the same. Their appear- ance is quite dazzling, and they are received with all deference on board the Maryland. Tamaahmaah soon followed in a single canoe, dressed in a sailor's blue jacket and trousers. As he alighted on deck the Canoes were ordered off, that the guns might fire the welcome salute, which was returned from the shore, his Majesty's ship Lelia Bird, displaying at the same time the English flag. The King is a tall stout man of about fifty or sixty. His countenance, rather stern and unpleasant, bespeaks nothing of his remarkable character. His manners are cordial and free he appears a great observer, viewing every corner and locker of the ship talks but little, but seems to think much. We showed him what articles we had to offer in traffic, for the provisions we want, but he 7 6 did not seem to relish them much: At three in the afternoon the king left the ship, when I went also on shore, Don Francisco Pablo Marin, a Spaniard settled here, and who appears by far the most respectable of the white set, showed me his distillery and a fine mare (horse) with two colts, imported from California. The king has also a stallion, on which he often rides and even has him harnessed before a kind of gig, but it broke down under a heavy load. In the morning a woman from the Russian settlement of Kodiak came on board. She was brought here about eight months ago and lives now under, the protection of Teremotoa, called the Pitt of the Isles; he is one of the first chiefs, the king's prime minister and factotum. Teremotoa is a fine looking young man, active, keen and intelligent, very friendly to white people, good hearted and generous ; he has taken under his charge the children of a Capt. S. Hart, who lately died here, as also the progeny of several other white men. 3oth June. The king paid us another visit and dined with us on board; cheese, beef and cabbage. To eat pork with us would be a capital sin. Some of their cus- toms are most whimsical. No women dare to see a man eat pork or eat any themselves. However, those who were on board would partake, in stealth, of what was handed to them, and would peep from behind the screen of a stateroom, to see the men eat. Every family has two separate fires for cooking, as the man can eat nothing cooked at his wife's fireside, and so vice versa. The wife never steps in her husband's hut, but the hus- band can step in the hut of his wife, and they have be- sides a common hut where they meet. A great many articles of food are tabooed for women, while the men freely partake of them. The first thing given to a new- born child is a potato, roasted at the fire either of the father or the mother, according to the sex of the infant. Women are much engaged at their household manufac- 77 tures, such as the several kinds of cloths and tapers, which they make out of the inner bark of several trees> beaten with an indented piece of wood on a flat stone. They use them white and also colored plain brown, or of var- ious patterns or colors much resembling chintz. After dinner the two sultanas came on board. They are sis- ters, and ladies of an enormous size, which constitutes their chief beauty. Like all others, they are fond of spirituous liquors, with which they had an opportunity of indulging themselves freely on board our ship. But one of the queens had made rather too free on the occa- sion, so that losing her balance as she was going down the ship's side, she fell overboard, nearly crushing in her fall a conoe on which she lighted. Two more ladies came on board, the mother and wife of the prime min- ister. They are said to be the noblest chiefs on these islands, even above the king, who, like the rest of the nation, has to prostrate himself when they pass. ist July. Went with the doctor to visit the crown prince, who has long been and probably will continue infirm. The prime minister attended us with his lady and a large suite, and on our return were treated with an excellent breakfast on roast pig, fish and roots, dressed to perfection in their own style. 2d July. The king spent again most of the day on board with his ladies, etc. He maintains his character of a great silent observer; we can make but little traffic with him, and I feel anxious to make the best of our way with what refreshments and the water we have. A per- iodical taboo of two nights and one day will deprive or relieve us of that clamorous crowd for a time. Em- ployed the resting spell to settle with the whites on the island for provisions furnished and services rendered. Mr. Harribottle was the chief purveyor of water. These white people are mostly American or English runaways from vessels that touched here. Many of them are but very indifferent characters. They gain their livelihood by 78 working for the king about his navy; and some have ac- quired some patches of land which they cultivate. With- out labor and industry, they are reduced to near the same predicament as they would be in our civilized countries, to beg for their food. The king and Teremotoo at times distribute them some fish; this is one of their great articles of food (of the natives generally), though not always plenty; they eat them much raw and I did not find them quite so bad, but often also baked or boiled. When they have no iron fish-hooks they make them very neatly of a kind of mother-of-pearl. The fibre of the cocoanut shell serves for making the lines. 4th July. The grand anniversary of American Inde- pendence was ushered in with a salute, and the ship dressed in all colors, while the king with royal family, etc., celebrated the day in streams of gin. Music played during dinner, and on Tamaahmaah's toast to the memory of one of his favorites a royal discharge was made. One- half of our crew were rioting on shore, and could with great difficulty be got off again. They seem to get a relish for this kind of life, since many of them apply for their discharge, calculating that, with what pay is due to them, they may acquire land enough to secure inde- pendence. The Island holds out certainly many allure- ments; it is a fine spot with bright sky, beautiful climate and very condescending sex. 6th to loth July. The traffic for provisions is very unimportant The king is a very keen trader and knows it so well, that he often undertakes to make bargains for his people. Near his habitation at Whyteetee he has large workshops, where carpenters, smiths, rope- makers, etc., are busily engaged working for his navy. It is said that he has hoarded up $10,000 specie, which he knows well enough to employ for obtaining, through the American traders, what articles he stands in need of. It seems even that to get money he contrives to exact a kind of tribute from the belles, that visit the ship as 79 part of their earnings, while these resort to various con- trivances for escaping search. Our sailors have but little more to bestow, yet their " friends " do not aban- don them, and are even seen to carry them as presents a fowl, a pig, some plantains and cocoanuts. As many of our people are about leaving us, we have been en- deavoring to ship others in their stead, but without suc- cess. nth July. While at dinner a sail hove in sight, which proved to be one of the king's schooners, built here, commanded by an American, Captain Hudson, eighteen days from Cedros, coast of California. This is the sec- ond voyage made by Capt. Hudson (for his and other Americans' account), in which he has been pretty suc- cessful, having obtained about 3,000 otter skins and up- wards of $ 10,000 in specie, collected at the different mis- sions in exchange for about $20,000, the refuse of a cargo. The schooner is now sold for a hundred and fifty otter skins to a Russian from Kodiak, who came passenger in her. On board of that vessel saw a pat- tern of a Kodiak canoe, wooden frame covered with skin, extremely neat; also some skin and feather cloaks, as worn at Kodiak, exceedingly well executed. I am told that at Kodiak the Russians will not sell an otter skin under $40. The owner of the schooner (Kodiak gentle- man) purchased of us a hogshead of leaf tobacco at one shilling per pound. 1 2th July. The King has been for some days residing near us at Honolulu, where spent much of my time with him. i th. We take leave of him and of our acquaintances, i 5 th July, whom we saluted with three guns and three cheers, taking our departure after nearly three weeks stay at Oahu, to touch on our way at the Island of Attowai. A chief from Attowai with dispatches, accompanied us in the Maryland. We have wasted much time and money here. Our numerous visitors have proved a heavy tax 8o in the article of gin alone, upwards of five hundred large bottles have been consumed, great part by the thirsty i6thjui y . whites. On the i6th July, we stood in the Whymoa Bay, in the Island of Attowai. Amongst our first visitors was the king's sister, a lady of enormous bulk. She sat to table though there was pork on it, while we were eating breakfast. A negro and two white men also came on board. They informed us of the king's residence to windward of the Island, but that we might soon expect his arrival. iyth. A fine double canoe came alongside with the Englishman on board, but no tidings yet from the king. 1 8th. In the afternoon another double canoe hove in sight and soon after we were honored with the visit of King Tamoru (otherwise called King George,) accom- panied by a few chiefs and warriors. Tamoru is a fine looking man of about thirty, with an excellent European countenance, and his whole deportment, together with his old French marine uniform coat, makes him more of a Frenchman than a South Sea Islander. With a fresh N. E. gale, the ship was plying off and on during the night, which somewhat incommoded the male and female visitors who crowded our cabin. After twenty-four i 9 tb juiy nour ' s stay, the i Qth, in the afternoon, Tamoru left us with his suite, and all the rest of the natives following his example, we were once more left to ourselves after having been for two months, which we spent amongst those Islands almost incessantly surrounded and crowded by the natives. On taking my leave of them and of the Sandwich Islands, I will not enlarge on their manners and customs, which are so faithfully recorded by Cook, Vancouver and others. Since then these Islands have been much frequented, chiefly by Americans engaged in the N. W. trade, so that the knowledge of these Islanders has now become quite familiar. They are certainly an interesting and very ingenuous people, full of superstition, void of the notions we have of morality, 8i but perhaps, in their way, no worse than Europeans, who in many respects, have injured rather than improved their manners. Human sacrifices are said to be still performed, but they are not charged with cannibalism. I have frequently visited and alone, distant parts of the several Islands we frequented, without the least sense of fear, and know of no instance where offense was given by any of the natives. Like those of the Marquesas, the sling, spear and battle axe are the principle weapons, though they know how to use muskets and large guns. I have seen the king for sport's sake, suffer himself to be attacked with spears, thrown at him from a distance, which he avoided or fended off with extreme agility. 2oth July. The night after we had left Attowai it was found that the ship had much leaked, and on sounding the pump thirty-six inches of water were discovered in the hold. This induced the captain to lay to under the Isle of Oneeheeow, and he even wished to return to port for search after the leak. However, it was finally de- termined to keep on our course, intending to make the last trial for disposing of some of our remaining goods at the Ladrone Islands. They lay in Lat. 10 20' South, and the distance from the Sandwich Islands is fifty de- grees, which we hoped to make in twenty or twenty -two days, but in this we were much disappointed. The pas- sage proved the most slow and tedious one yet made during the voyage. The winds were mostly very light, particularly toward the latter part, when we seldom ex- ceeded three to four knots per hour. In the early part we had pretty regular trades from the northward and eastward, but as we drew more to the south the wind veered to southward and eastward, and continued so, mostly very faint, with little deviation to the northward. We had calculated to be favored by a S. W. current, but instead of that the current set us to the eastward, since on first making the land, twelve leagues ahead, we had actually passed it by reckoning more than a hundred 82 leagues. The temperature was most of the time very hot and sultry; the sky cloudy, but the sun not obscured, except during those frequent squalls which we experi- enced almost daily, accompanied often with tremendous showers of rain, and strong thunder and lightning as we approached Guam. Various tropic birds generally were about the ship; we saw porpoises and caught numbers of bonittos. On the i3th August, a landbird rested on ioth Au g *ke sn ip' s mast , which we suspected to have been blown off from the Carolines. At length on the 1 9th August, the 'thirty -second day after our departure from Attowai, we descried land ahead, and with a favorable gust we doubled the south point of a small island, connected by a reef with the Island of Guam. The land in sight is low, very pleasing, verdant, and thickly covered with wood. Some houses are seen, and as we advance, a fort on which Spanish colors are displayed. To the right of this fort, which is on an eminence and contains thirteen embrasures, at the entrance of a small valley, a large white building is exhibited to advantage. This is the Palaccio, as we were informed by Don Francisco Her- rera, who about eleven came on board in a clumsy canoe with outriggers, paddled by Indians; Don Herrera, a Creole, calls himself commandant of this fort, where he has some raw Indians for soldiers. These are of a light copper color, dressed in blue ragged drawers with shirt or frock of the same stuff. They carry each a machete, or long knife, like the Indians on the coast of Mexico. On the information from the Don we determined to steer for PointrOrote in order to be nearer to the town of St. Ignacio di Agouna, where resides the governor, to whom dispatched a message. 2oth Aug. As we stand to the northward, we pass by several open bays with fine sandy beaches and some habitations. About one, passed the Point of Grote, which is formed by a rocky bluff extending some dis- tance in the sea, and soon found ourselves off the 83 Caldera, a small harbor defended or protected by a fort with five embrasures, and another with three. Not finding here an eligible anchorage we returned again to- wards the Palacio, where we were overtaken by a boat which had followed us all the way from the Caldera. Two persons soon came on board of us (one a stout Indian bred), with a polite message from the governor, to inquire after our home, etc. Keeping under sail during night with a Spaniard on board, who was to act as pilot, we made for the harbor in the morning, and about noon Friday, the 2ist Aug., sounded about two 2istAu miles off St. Ignatio, but could get no bottom, with 120 fathom line. This town is very pleasantly situated at the foot of a hill amongst a grove of cocoanut trees and opposite to a fine white sandy beach. It was not found safe to remain here, and we for the third time returned opposite the Palacio where we anchored in the evening, in fifteen fathoms water, about three-quarters of a mile from the shore, the nighest fort bearing about N. E. Went on shore, where dined with Signer Guerera, the Alcade of the place and commander of the fort. 22d. The casks were landed to be filled with water in one of the several fine streams that run close to the beach. The country about as far as I can judge, after a short walk, seems very fertile and looks verdant. Cocoa- nut trees are abundant, as also the lima, breadfruit and plantains, some rice, maize and sugarcane is also cultivated, but not to any extent. Cattle is not plenty and they are said to send annually to the neighboring Island of Tinian, (of which Lord Anson has made so romantic a description),, to have a provision of jerked beef put up. Horses are scarce and so are mules and very dear. Poultry and doves abundant. Don Guerera or Herrera tells me, that some canoes with Indians come here every year (to trade for iron, etc., from the Caroline Islands. Towards midnight, a message was sent from the shore to the ship, to beware of an approaching 8 4 storm, but it passed over without accident. In the even- ing, during a heavy shower of rain a Lancha hove in sight, and we were soon after boarded by his excellency the Governor, Don Alexandro Paramo de Centa. After a short visit, I accompanied him on shore to the Palacio or Government House. His excellency is much a man of the world, he appears active and well disposed to im- prove the government intrusted to him, but it will be an arduous task, to make any progress, while the sloth and indolence of the natives appear so much opposed to them. However, the improvement he has made in the Palacio, considering the means he had at his command, show that he is capable of something and indicates a degree of taste. Don Alexandro has been here only since last October, when he arrived from Manila. The agent of the Philippine Co., has intrusted him to devote much of his care to the culture of Indigo, which grows here spontaneously, but its manufacture is not understood, nor do they seem to improve the cotton that grows on the island. Beach le mar is collected in small quantities and the Governor seems well to know the value it has in China. It is called here ballate. According to the account of Fray, the Island of Guam, which is more than a hundred miles in circumference, contains about fifteen thousand inhabitants, a very small proportion of whom are native Spaniards. One-third of the population nearly lives in the town of St. Ignatio, which is regularly laid out but meanly built, and only a few houses are of bricks cov- ered with tiles. According to the Governor, there are six hundred regular soldiers on the island, and in case of emergency two thousand militia could be collected and armed; but I believe these accounts much exagger- ated, and lay more faith in those given me by Don Mar- tinez, who states the whole population at twenty-five hundred souls, besides one hundred and fifty soldiers in pay, thirty whereof form an artillery company. At any 85 rate the military establishment is most wretched, both as to men and arms. Of the other numerous islands of the group, Rota alone is said to be inhabited by eight hundred souls according to one and three hundred to another account. The Governor gave me some interesting account about Lima and Manila. He informed me also that the Nao, from Acapulco to Manila, and other vessels from the Spanish main, pass here in April or May and come to anchor, but at this time of the year they would not dare to lay in so exposed a place; they then go to the Caldera. 23d. After having sold on board some goods to the Governor, went to dine with him and his suite, in good style, at the Palacio. He wished us to give up the Spaniards who were on board our ship, as subjects of his master, His Catholic Majesty, but we granted him but two, who had shipped at the Sandwich Islands and who wished to land. From the examination he made them undergo it is pretty clear His Excellency takes us for Englishmen. Sunday morning went to mass, and was kept a full hour on my knees. Breakfasted with the Governor, and next day, 24th, dined with him. A sharp correspondence with His Excellency, who, however, makes handsome acknowledgement. Free trade is allowed in the islands, but being so far, seven leagues, from the town, the Gov- ernor was our only customer, for about $1,300. 25th Aug. We took our departure from Guam, con- 2 s h Aug. tinuing our course to the westward, with variable winds, squally, rainy and unpleasant weather. ist Sept., in Lat. 19 16', a flock of land birds passed the ship. 4th Sept. For these three days we have had rainy, squally weather, with a smart gale from the S. and E., which has driven us rather too far north, being now in Lat. 20. There appears here no variation in the compass or deviation of the magnetic needle. 5th. Light south- 86 erly airs with a current to the northward have driven us in Lat. 20 40', in a line with the Bashee Islands, for which laid to during two nights. In the morning- clos- 7 th sept, ing the twenty-four hours of Monday, Sept. yth, we descried Mon mouth Island ahead, appearing high and steep to the northward and eastward, while to the south- ward it is more level. About eight saw a flag on a hill and some houses as we coast along shore. The aspect is cheering; the land appears well cultivated, laid out in small plantations neatly separated by green live hedges. Another flag displayed in the bottom of the bay; more houses and cattle feeding on the hills. De- ath Sept. termined to go on shore, and about noon, the 8th Sept., while the wind headed us about four miles from the shore, lowered a boat and rowed in. Ere we had got half way we were joined by an embarkation from the shore. It was paddled by about ten natives; some of them spoke Spanish and were invited to step into our boat. Soon after, we landed on a fine black sandy beach, where about two hundred naked Indians were collected. In front, somewhat elevated, was a kind of fort, with one gun, to which led a pretty good flight of stone steps. A veteran with a ragged uniform, walked on the wall of the fort, while a few more near him were also staring at us. As we advanced, we were met by a short, squatty friar in Dominican habit, followed by some soldiers under the command of the commandante and algade, Don Valerio Bermudez. This padre, Fray Francisco de Pablo Estevan de Salomania, Vicario provincially Forano, very politely led us up to his house, where he treated us with a roast fowl and eggs and an excellent glass of wine. From him I learned, for he is a very talkative old gentleman, that these islands, the Bashees, since more than eight years have not been deemed worthy of a governor, for though they have been for more than twenty-five years under the Spanish dominion, no tribute could be raised from 87 the Indians, the sole care for their souls inducing the king to maintain a settlement which does not defray it- self. The number of the natives in this and two more islands of the group amount to about seventeen thou- sand, agreeably to a statement I have seen drawn up by our respectable host. Most of them are Christanos, but they altogether are miserably poor. They bestow however, some care on the culture of the soil, and I have observed them plowing along the hills. Their princi- pal food is camotes, yams and taro; they also grow maize, but in small quantities, and the rats which infest the island, together with the tornadoes, with which they are often visited, frequently destroy their whole crops. Sugar cane grows, but of a very poor watery kind. With its juice the natives prepare a kind of liquor (probably what is called bashee), with which they much intoxicate themselves; when in their furious fits, the lives of the padres themselves would be much exposed were they not protected by a few soldiers, miserable indeed, but competent to keep the natives in awe. The betel nut is chewed by both sexes, and colors their teeth to a jet black, which heightens their natural ugliness. The vil- lage we were at is well built, in regular squares; the houses, somewhat raised from the ground, are erected within a kind of bamboo fence, surrounded with small palm, plantain and other trees, arranged in narrow straight lanes, which gives them a pleasant appearance. But the inhabitants go mostly naked and are wretched in the force of the term. Some cotton I saw spun and woven, but very few seem to use it. The place we vis- ited, called St. Domingo, is said to contain several thou- sand inhabitants. There are two more pueblos in the Island St. Carlos and St. Joseph, over each of which a Dominican padre presides. But as the roads to those pueblos (villages) are said to be very bad, and the con- veyance by water in boats also dangerous, the padres but seldom visit each other, nor have they any horses 88 or other beasts of burden; the few cattle they have con- sist of a kind of buffaloes; hogs, goats, sheep and poul- try is also bred. According to the padre, these islands are named the Batanes, and the one we visited, by far the longest and most populous, the Isla de Baray. Fray Francisco has lived here twenty years, and insists in vain for his release, nobody seems willing to replace him on so forlorn a spot. Some small vessels from Manila supply them at times with a few necessaries, but they have hardly anything to give in return. Rice grows, but scarcely requites the labor bestowed on it, and the land seems far less fertile than it appears pleasant. The climate is not healthy, and they have occasional earthquakes. The padre lives in a tolerable stone building which he calls el com-ento. A church has been begun upon a large scale, but is not likely soon to be finished. About four took leave of our hospitable host, who first recorded our visit in his diario. He made us a present of some camotes, plantains, two bottles of wine and a young buffalo bull. In return I sent him a piece of muslin, some Spanish books, paper, knives, spoons, powder, brandy etc., which I hcpe will have proved acceptable. About six, as we stood away with a light breeze, two boats came along which had been dis- patched from the other missions to enquire after us, and by whom sent our compliments to the padres. They are the only Spaniards on the island. The other inhabitants are aborigines, with the exception of a few Manila men. pth Sept. Our course is now for the China Sea, which we approach slowly, with light winds from the t 3 thse p t. eastward. On Sunday, the i3th Sept., saw the land far ahead, in about Lat. 22 N., and next day, i4th Sept., a Chinese sampan came alongside and put two men on board of us, who promised to pilot us to Macao for $4 paid down. As we slowly neared the land, with small islands, or rather barren rocks before us, we gradually 8 9 discovered more Chinese embarkations. From one of them a Chinese came on board with recommendations as ship's compradore. He spoke some English and in- formed us that we had passed the Grand Lema. The tide making strongly against us, so that we could make no headway, had to come to anchor at noon, five miles from the Grand Ladrone, in nine fathoms of water. I fear much we shall not reach Macao to-night. 1 5th Sept. Despatched Jemmy Attoi, whom we have engaged for ship's compradore, in a sampan to Macao, for some refreshments. Our progress is most tedious against a strong tide, which compels us repeatedly to let go the anchor as the wind fails. 1 6th. In the afternoon the compradore returned from Macao, our soi disant pilot leaves us, after having made a claim for $40, but he had to content himself with the $4 first paid down, and a cumshaw in port and brandy. The tide rushes down with extreme force, carry- ing with it a thick yellow mud. At noon we observed the Lat. 22 13. The fort on Macao hill is about four leagues distance to the N. W. Passed a great number of sampans that come down from Macao to fish, return- ing every night. Our soundings regular from eight to six fathoms. iyth. At length we are off Macao, after having been tantalised for three days in the river, contending with light winds against strong current and tide. The cutter was got ready and we started at two for shore. The distance proved much greater than we had calculated, and the oppressive heat made the passage most fatiguing. The sun was about half an hour high when we landed on the beach, opposite to some elegant building. A sergeant desired us to follow him to the house of Don * * * a Portugese nobleman, one of the Chief Magistrates of the place. This gentleman, of very engaging address, spoke the French language ; he addressed to us some questions about our voyage, etc., 9 had the name of the ship recorded and after satisfying us very politely on the current news, dismissed us to make room for other visitors. Another military man now led us to the Portugese Governor Don * * * an elderly gentleman of very polite manners too. Through a mulatto interpreter, he addressed to us queries similar to those we had answered before, but without requiring to inspect our papers. On leaving the Governor some Englishmen accosted us in the street and one of them, Mr. Bud well, showed us the way to the hotel, where obtained some much wanted refreshments, being nearly suffocated with the heat. After supper took a walk by fine moonlight, were introduced to some Danish and English gentlemen and kept in conversation till near four in the morning. By sunrise, took another round turn on some adjacent hills, whence were glad to see the Maryland safely at anchor. We had a fine view of the Typa and of the harbor behind Macao, where about twenty-five Portugese vessels were riding at anchor. After breakfast, went to the English factory to make some purchases. Mr. Gordon there introduced us to a French gentleman, High Admiral of his majesty of Cochin China, when we continued to ramble over the town. After some delays and difficulties owing to the nature of our cargo, a chop was obtained from the Mandarin who lives seven miles from town, and having quieted the fears entertained by our Pilot (a Chinese also) about an expected visit from the British, we started with him at five in the evening. 1 8th. It was near midnight when we reached the ship. A brig soon after anchored alongside the Mary- land, the Capt. of which paid us a visit. He was English from Port Jackson, New Holland, with a cargo of sandal wood, which he had procured at the Fiji Islands in ex- change for iron, tools, whale's teeth, etc. He has also touched at Bashee Islands, and was entrusted by our hospitable Padre with a basket of oranges, as a token of remembrance to us. 9 1 The town of Macao is far more extensive than I had any idea of, it has many elegant buildings, particularly in the street fronting the river, Most of them belong to the factors of the East India Co., who live in high style. There are said to be thirteen churches, one nunnery, three hundred monks, two hundred and fifty soldiers, blacks, mulattoes, etc., and perhaps as many Portugese officers. The place appears very lively, though, I am told, it affords little resource for sociable life, the Portugese not being disposed for it, and keep- ing their ladies much secluded. The few I saw, going to mass, all dressed in black, could not boast much of their charms. Two British frigates, the Phaeton and JBellona, late a privateer from Bordeaux, were lying in the Typa. They had lately come in from a cruise off the Philippines, totally dismasted. One of them had seized the Amer- ican ship Topaz, from the Spanish main, on pretence of her being a pirate or privateer, Capt. Nicoll and two of the Topaz crew were killed in resisting the siezure. Another American Captain was wounded by one of these men-of-war's crew, while opposing the search of his vessel while passing Macao, bound up to Canton. They seem to be bent on abusing their power. 1 9th Sept. Beat up the river as the tide allows, in the 19th Sept night passed amongst some Chinese fishermen's barks, who set up a tremendous howling apprehensive to be run down, or having their stakes and nets destroyed. In the morning a boat from the English ship Discovery, on discovery boarded us. In the morning, off Bona Tigris, the pilot went ashore for another chop (passport or permit.) Several forts, some pagodas and villages are seen on either side of the river. Passed Bona Tigris with a fresh breeze, the starboard shore being only half a pistol shot off. The river lively with sampans. 2oth. For $10 got some Chinese boats to plant stakes 20 thSept. over the two bars to mark the passage. Weather ugly 9 2 and threatening a typhoon. With the tide and fresh breeze, we safely passed the two bars, and soon disco- vered the fleet. The first we passed, were a number of large English Company ships, few of which only showed their colors. Shooting tip between the American shipping, the pilot suddenly ordered to drop the anchor, which was done at once all sails standing, and we now found ourselves at length in a safe berth at Whampoa, the roadstead of Canton. About five, embarked in the cutter to go up the river; so many creeks branch out into it, and it is so covered with boats, that we soon got lost, and had several times to pay Chinese to put us in the way again ere we could reach Canton, at nine in the evening after a tedious wet passage. We landed at the stairs, opposite the fine square form- ed by the factory buildings, where we called on Mr. Carrington, the American Consul. He was attended by a large company of captains and supercargoes, to whom I was introduced, quite astonished to find myself once more in a civilized circle, while my foreign looks, can- vass shoes and fancy dress, the produce and manufacture of the ship, seemed also to excite some attention. Having partaken, with hearty appetite, of a good supper, I was anxious to retire in order to peruse the letters I found to my address. They were but few, and of old dates. They excited much emotion and sentiment of gratitude at the perusal of an affectionate letter from my good mother. 2ist sept. 2 1 st. In the morning sent for several Chinese trades- men, to replenish my exhausted wardrobe, which was effected with their wonted celerity in less than twenty- four hours. Some of the Hong merchants came to offer their services, made preliminary arrangements for transacting our business, taking up quarters at factory with Mr. Paine. Returned to Whampoa to receive the Mandarin, who 93 was to come to measure the ship. An officer was dispatched in a boat to meet him, as did the officers of eight other vessels, that were to be measured at the same time. At ten the Mandarin came along- side the vessel and from his unwieldly sampan, by means of a kind of moveable stairs, he stepped on board with a numerous retinue. The vessel was measured with a line laid on the deck, from the mizzen to the foremast, and then athwart ship, while two writers were writing down the measurements. The result was 61.2 cubits length, 21.8 breadth = 137.7.7, ranking our ship in the second class, and had to pay at the rate of Taels 6.8.4. Taels 942.3.8.7, to which was to be added the custom- ary cumshaw of 1950 * * * Taels 2892.3.8.7 @ per man 2 candareens = $4017.20, in exchange we received the customary cumshaw (or present) of two lean buffaloes, six bags of rice and eight jars of samsh (liquor.) Some bottles of brandy were given to the Mandarin's retinue. 22d. Dined at Whampoa, on board the Asia, from Philadelphia, and then returned to Canton. 23rd. At Canton, preparing for the business to tran- 23 dSe P t. sact here. Visit some shops, some Hong merchants and finally agree with Houqua to secure the ship. During near eleven weeks' stay at Canton, I kept no regular journal. For some particulars during this period about the China trade, etc., I refer to the appendix, and resume now my journal as kept on board the Maryland. 5th December. Having spent the whole of the night finally to adjust all our concerns at Canton, we started for Whampoa. But it was not an easy matter to clear our way from the factory to the river, through a crowd of waiters, attendants, coolies, cooks, etc., who gave us their blessings for the voyage, that they might get a cumshaw, nor could we step in the boat, till we had equally satisfied a number of greedy Mandarins who ex- pected reward for their affected complaisance at suffer- ing our effects to be embarked without examination. It 94 was about nine in the morning, when we took leave of Canton. On our way down the river, we /re joined Capt Conklin, on board the ship William Bingham, and went also to take a look at the Atahualpa, that had just got in from the N. W. coast. A little below we stopped along- side of the burning wreck of the E. I. Company ship, the Albion, which had caught fire the evening before, and was nearly totally destroyed with an immense cargo on board. About $1,600,000, which had been shipped in her, in specie, destined for Calcutta on account of the E. I. Co., would mostly be saved. We reached the ship about noon Saturday, and in the evening took advantage of the ebb tide to drop down within eight miles of the first bar, where laid during night. Sunday 6th Dec. At seven in the morning we weighed anchor, and with the aid of boats and the tide we crossed the first bar. The wind being light and ahead had again come to anchor for the night. Our ship's compradore here left us, saluting the ship with fireworks, crackers, etc. Monday, 7th. While waiting for the height of the tide, to cross the second bar, the wind shifted at once from the south to the northward, and freshening very fast we parted our cable, and the ship was driven in the mud in three fathoms water. After much work luffing, keeping away, paying out, sheeting home, clewing up, etc., etc., we at length got clear and improving a fair wind, the tide being nearly full, we safely crossed the second bar by six in the evening with the aid of boats, stationed with lanthorns to mark, the channel ; we had three and a half fathoms of water, within a few inches of what the Maryland drew. Six of the company's ships passed at the same time, in order to wait below the bar to complete their cargoes. Passed the Bona Tigris and stood on till midnight when we anchored. sth Dec. Tuesday, 8th Dec. Early in the morning, with fresh northerly winds, we ran under Lautao Island and came 95 to anchor near the General Clarkson. The pilot ran against the ship into the mud, but without serious conse- quences. Here on the shores of Lautao Island we de- posited the body of Thomas Vandervoort, who had breathed his last in the ship the preceding- evening. He has been one of the jolliest of our crew, ever hardy until our arrival in the river, when he was attacked by a dropsy in the breast, which brought on his end, ac- celerated by a kind of diarrhoea. The deceased belonged to a respectable family in New York. It was his first voyage, which he had embarked in in a frolic, as he was not bred to a sailor's life. The gale from the northward increased, with fair weather, but piercing cold, such as I should not have expected in this latitude. It feels much like riding off the Hook, in the month of March, facing a northwester, pth Dec. Still at anchor under Lautao waiting for the gale to abate; weather very cold; our people began to cough; ten hands on the doctor's list. loth. The weather having moderated, we could get wthj?ec. under way toward seven in the morning, and stood for Macao Roads, where we anchored at eleven. The pilot here left us. Two vessels were coming up which I was informed were the ship Baltic, Howel, from Providence, more than nine months out (having had to contend against the northeast monsoon), and an American brig from Bath, from a trading voyage on the coast of Brazil, and last from Botany Bay. The American ship Mount Vernon, so much spoken of has arrived from Japan, was laying in Macao harbor, dis- charging her copper, etc. Ship in bad order and an ap- parent want of proper direction. At eight in the even- ing, weighed anchor to follow the General Clarkson, when we passed a ship beating up, supposed to be the Beaver, from New York. Sent a few lines of directions to Capt. Conklin, about the box E. C. F. I., which he has taken charge of for my family at Bale. 9 6 nth. We continued our course all night with mod- erate N. E. winds, following the Clarkson. At daylight took our departure from the nearest land, which bore * * * Here I shall once more begin the sea reckoning, agreeably to which, this day, Friday, running from yes- terday at noon, now expires to-day at noon, and I count Saturday, i2th Dec. The ship General Clarkson, belong- ing to the same owners in New York as the Maryland, and her master, Capt. Conklin, being a most experienced commander, and possessing a knowledge of the danger- ous China seas which none on board our ship had, it was agreed that he should take the lead with his ship and that we should follow him, keeping in company as long as circumstances might allow; a course of signals was accordingly agreed upon, and with a strong N. E. mon- soon, we made the best of our way to the southward. The passage down the China Sea is a difficult and dan- gerous one, from the numerous shoals, rocks and islets with which these seas are strewn, as it were. The ut- most vigilance was therefore observed, and men sta- tioned at the several masts' heads to keep a sharp look- out, day and night. I2 thDec. I2th Calculated to have passed to the eastward of the shoal of South Esprit, if it exists as laid down in the chaits. Lat. at noon 18.25 N. 1 3th to 1 6th. Fresh N. E. monsoon with occasional squalls, some rain; seldom a glimpse of the sun could be had, and the weather mostly thick and gloomy. Passed the Lat. of the Vigia and Andrada, making good prog- ress to the southward and westward at the rate of one hundred and sixty to one hundred and eighty, and on Wednesday i6th, obtained a doubtful observation in Lat. 7 45 N. iyth. About one, the Clarkson made a signal to speak her, and on coming up with her Capt. Conklin desired that we should run ahead, heave to and try soundings. We did so just at dark in the evening and got bottom in thirty-five fathoms. Before we could 97 get the ship under way again we saw the Clarkson under full sail, coming right down on us. Lights were got up and thrown out with utmost precipitation, and Monson hailed the Clarkson, with all the force and spirit which the eminent danger we were in inspired. " Put your helm hard a starboard, a starboard, a starboard, you run us down." Fortunately the ship obeyed the rudder and started a few yards by our stern ; had an unlucky sea struck her the consequence would probably have been fatal to the Maryland. 1 8th. As we approached the equator, the weather became more genial, though the sun still much obscur- ed, so that we could not see the Anambas or Natunas, between which we calculated to have passed, nor any of the intermediate rocks. At noon our Lat. was 2 Q . 33 N. ipth. About noon crossed the equator for the third time this voyage, between the Islands of Borneo and Sumatra. We suppose our Longitude to be about 105, but cannot reckon on it with confidence, having had no chance to take a departure since we left China, which is as unlucky as surprising, considering the many points of land we passed by. 2oth. With thick rainy weather we saw the first 20th Dec - land, supposed Lingen Islands, which enabled us to shape our course properly. Stood all night S. by W, in the morning passed by some Islands, the Tayas on the larboard side. At noon in Lat. 1.56 S. Monopin Hill on the Sumatra shore was about 12 miles distant to the eastward. A ship at anchor before us. 2 1 st. After dinner, two boats started from the strange ship, and soon boarded the Clarkson and the Maryland. The officer who visited us, reported to belong to the British frigate Bombay bound to Paulo Penang. He gave us information about a number of American vessels, which they had spoken in the straits, on their way from Canton, bound home. In the evening, anchored in the 9 3 strait of Banka, to wait the turn of the tide, which runs very strong between the Island and the Sumatra shore. This shore or land of Sumatra, so far is low, and very level, apparently covered with wood, very uniform and without any signs of habitation. It's however inhabited, since vessels come often to trade here and on the oppo- site shore of Banka, for pepper, tin, ratans, betel nuts, etc. There are several considerable rivers emptying themselves in these Straits of Banka. The Banka shore is low likewise, much broken, but cannot distinctly be discerned, our distance from it being at least fifteen miles, while we are not more than five from Sumatra. About two miles above the first point, the water assumed a red color as if tinged with blood passed that point it becomes again of a light green. Passed down the straits with very light airs, our soundings being from ten to thirteen fathoms. 22d. The weather is very sultry, with faint airs from the southwest, with which slowly passed Lalary Point on Banka. Its shores continue low, interspersed with hills, much broken with small islets. A Chinese junk at an- chor under the Sumatra shore. The wind dying away, we did not judge it safe to abandon ourselves during the night to a strong current of tide which set out of the straits at the rate of five to six knots per hour. We ac- cordingly laid at anchor from eight in the evening till daylight, when we got under way again. Another Chinese junk had been close by us, which sent a boat 011 board with an offer of some fish and pigs. They made us understand by signs, that they much wished to have one of our anchors and cables, but being ourselves very short of them, we had to decline the demand. About ten, we cleared the Straits of Banka. The tide was then making against us; for a number of casts we had only three and a half fathoms water, but the soundings soon increased, though towards noon, while passing close to the Sumatra shore, off the small island of Lusipara, on 99 the entrance to the straits, they were reduced again to four and a half fathoms water, Lat. 3 32' S. 23d. With light airs, stood towards the Straits of Sunda. As we could not weather two small islands be- fore us, we had to tack ship, beating to windward. A strange sail, showing American colors, was then in sight gaining on us. At noon, the stranger came up with us; she proved to be the Asia, Williamson, from Philadel- phia. They had left Macao two days after us, and came through the Straits of Gaspar in company with the Dor- othea. 24th Dec. Continuing our course slowly to the 2 ^ Dec southward, we had a fair view, about noon, of the Brothers. They are two small islets near each other, very rugged, steep and covered with wood. During the night, passed the Asia at anchor while we were standing for North Island, where we came to towards noon. To the southward, high land is seen, which take to be Ban- tam Point, in the Island of Java. The Three Sisters lay close to the Sumatra shore, and are 'also covered with wood. 25th. The boats were here hoisted out and sent to 35t h Dec. the Sumatra shore after fresh water. It's taken out of a kind of rivulet or pond close to the beach, under a pretty remarkable white cliff. At two in the afternoon, I went to the shore with Capt. Conklin and the doctor. Some Malays were with our people at the watering place. Proceeding up shore, along a thick wood and through high grass in search of game, we started a deer, but could not reach him ; number of small birds, some cranes, rabbits and monkeys were also seen. The walk- ing was fatiguing through the high grass, and while we had to creep through thick bushes and underwood, which grows most luxuriantly almost to the water's edge. We had thus made about three miles, when we reached the top of a small hill. We had hoped to discover there the boat, which had directed to follow us along shore, but 100 disappointed in this and unable to reach the beach, while a thick morass was in our way, we had to continue to work our way through the woods. After much exer- tion, and startled at one time at the sight of two large alligators that were basking in the sun, we at length got to the water's edge, near the place where some of our people were engaged cutting wood. Shortly before, we had come up with a party of Malays, some of whom were fishing. Aware of their character, we did not feel quite at ease in their company, and took every precau- tion to guard against and to resist any attack. They did not, however, molest us. Each of them wore two of those famous daggers called cris, a poisoned and most dangerous weapon. They are half naked, mean looking creatures, with mouth and teeth quite black from the use of the betel nut. Wood is easily obtained here close to the beach, and all along shore up to the point oppo- site to North Island. It consists of stately young trees of a fine white heavy wood. At seven, returned to the Clarkson for supper. In the morning, the wooding and watering not being completed, we lost the chance of a fine N. W. wind, with a good tide, to clear these parts and the Straits of Sunda. As the tide or flood now made against us, we had to continue at anchor. 26th Dec. I went on board the Clarkson to dine with Capt. Conklin, in company with Captain Dogherty, Messrs. Latimer, Stocker, etc., of the Dorothea, which vessel had also come to anchor near us. These gentle- men accompanied me in the evening to the Maryland, and on their departure treated them with some skyrock- ets Calm during the night. In the morning, weighed anchor and with light winds passed Hog Point, tacking about close under the Sumatra shore, which here is high, looks pleasant, well wooded and interspersed with huts. At noon observed in Lat. 5. 5 2 S. 27th. A Malay boat brought us some turtles ; the wind failing about four, had to drop anchor under Paulo 101 Bessee. A boat that was dispatched to the shore after water, returned without finding any. The Dorothea in sight at anchor under Krakatoo Island. At daylight, with faint land breezes, continue our course. As we passed between Bassee and Tamarind Islands, several canoes came alongside with turtles, cocoanuts, etc. Towards noon a fresh northerly breeze sprang up, but as we could not weather with it the Sea Rock, we had to tack about, beating to windward during the night of the 28th; with favorable winds, in the morning of the 29th, at length cleared the Straits of Sunda (eighteen ^ Dec days after we left Macao), our Lat. at noon being 6 41 S. Java Head, which lies at Lat. 6 45 S. Long. 104 45 East, then bore E. by S. ten leagues and served for a fresh departure. Having now fairly and safely got through the Straits of Sunda, and cleared that intricate China Sea, we found ourselves once more in the wide ocean, taking best possible advantage of the wind to increase our distance from the line, and to get into the trade winds. 3ist Dec. I had, in turn with the Doctor, sat up during the night, as we had done so for some time pre- vious, with the Captain, whose illness began to excite apprehensions for his life. At daylight I called the steward and cabin-boy, to assist me in changing the Captain's linen, etc. While holding him up in my arms, the agonies of death came on, and I had hardly dropped him on a chair, when the spark of life was extinct. The scene has extremely affected me; Alas, poor man ! He was taken ill, soon after we left Macao, coming down, but never seemed to be aware of the danger of his situa- tion, though hints about it had been thrown out to him. During the last days, his mind was often absent, as he uttered quite incoherent sentences. His complaint was Dysentery and Hepatetis. At sunrise, colors were hoisted half mast, and a boat was sent to the Clarkson to request Capt. Conklin's attendance on board our ship. 102 A coffin was prepared during the day and on Friday the ist of January, at half -past five in the afternoon, the corpse was brought on deck and deposited in the coffin. The whole crew was then invited to take ,the farewell view of their late commander, after which the coffin was nailed up, a number of cannon balls having been put in it over the feet to make it sink. A prayer was then read, after which the body was committed to the deep, under discharge of one gun. Requiescat in Pace. The crew were now informed that Mr. Monson would assume the command, and were enjoined to obey and respect him as master. In the morning, a general inspection of the ship's stores took place. It appeared that there scarcely would be sufficient to carry us to the United States. The crew was therefore mustered and proposals made to them, to reduce their daily allowance; but as they would not enter into the propriety of a re- duction, it was consented that they should continue to receive three quarts of water and one pound of meat per day. Under these circumstances, it is more than probable that we may have to put into some port for supplies. Fernando Noronha, has been suggested by Capt. Conklin, to that end. 2d. Took our New Year's dinner on board the Clarkson. Capt. Conklin supplied me with a good chart of the Coast of America, which we were much in want of. The two ships keeping still in company, we made good progress to the southward and westward, through the great Indian Ocean, with fresh southeast trades, gradually increasing our southern Lat., which on the 1 3th was 1 8 48 S. 1 4th. Being informed by the Clarkson 's first officer, Robinson, that Captain Conklin had been taken ill, I went to visit him with the Doctor, who staid with him for the night next day reported some improvement. 1 7th. About noon in Lat. 20 54, saw some land birds which we supposed to be from Rodrique, which must be about abreast of us. io 3 23rd. Continuance of eastern trades, rather too light for our wishes. Capt. Conklin has taken two lunars yesterday, when in about Lat. 24^-S, which placed us in 54. 44 east, being three degrees further than by our dead reckoning. Much rain for twenty-four hours, which enabled us to collect several casks full of water to help along. 24th. We had now passed a few degrees to the south- ward of Bourbon and the Isle of France, and are drawing near the Coast of Madagascar. To its v vicinity we attributed the squally weather experienced for the last days. A continuance of rainy weather enabled us to fill nearly all our empty water casks, so that at any rate we could dispense with putting in at the Cape of Good Hope. 26th. Having got again without the Tropics since the 2ist, the trade winds began to fail and we were once more in a variable region, though generally they blew favorably. By calculation, we passed on the 27th, about seventy miles to the southward of Cape St. Mary, in Madagascar, our Lat. being then 27 44. Weather fair and pleasant. Many Mother Gary's chickens and other aquatic birds about the ship. 3 1 st. As we draw nearer to the Cape, the winds rather head us, but a southerly current helps us along. Took some Lunar observations, the mean of which was about 34 east, while our Lat. was 30 53. ist Feby. The nighest land on the Coast of Africa is Port Natal, about twenty leagues distant. Being forced to the northward by southerly winds, we discerned, 3rd si Feby., the land on the African Coast, through a hazy horizon, supposing it to be the Green Mountains behind Port Natal. During the night the wind became more favorable and continued so in the morning, when stand- ing to the southward along the coast, we procured a distant view of a chain of moderate mountains. 5th. Went to take dinner on board the Clarkson upon 104 an excellent bonetto chowder. The land of Africa still occasionally in view, and a good easterly breeze favored by a southern current, has brought us to-day to Lat. 35 ss. 6th. In Lat. 35 40, having been much drawn to the southward by a current, and supposed Long. 22 30 E. sounded on the Agulhas Banks, and got bottom of gray sand and shells in 90 fathoms. 7th. Sunday, while off the Cape of Good Hope, Capt. Conklin came on board to partake of some fresh fish we had caught, but just as we were going to sit down to dinner, a gale sprang up from the S. E. which made him return with precipitation to his own ship. It being fair, though the weather thick and gloomy, we made the most of it to double the Cape, happy to find ourselves once more in the south Atlantic Ocean, after having been near forty days to run the distance of about ninety degrees of Longitude, from Java to the Cape. i oth. As we have now fairly doubled Cape of Good Hope, our course has been shaped for St. Helena, with moderate breezes which brought us to-day in Lat. 31 12. Went to take a farewell dinner with Capt. Conklin, intending now to improve the superior sailing of our ship to make the best of our way home, without regard to the Clarkson. With the aid of the small supply of one barrel of water, one of beef, one of pork, some capons and Chinese geese, which Capt. Conklin has spared us, we hope to get on without putting into any port, unless circumstances should favor us so as to allow us calling at Ascension for turtles. nth. Passed by the Clarkson, who saluted us with two guns, which returned with three cheers, and so, farewell ! With light trade winds from the southeast, we crossed the tropics on the i5th, and on the iyth, we found our- selves by reckoning in western longitude, being then o 5' west of the meridian of Greenwich Lat. 19 33' 2ist. Owing to scant winds our progress has been 2 ist Fe-.-y. slow for some time. At five in the afternoon, discerned the island of St. Helena bearing about west, but it lay- ing in the wake of the sun, we could not well distinguish it before sunset. It then appeared very high, mostly covered with clouds; our nearest approach computed at about twenty-five miles. This fresh departure enabled us to shape our course with a degree of certainty for As- cension, which lays about eight degrees to the north- ward and westward, in our direct track to North America. 24th. Had the good luck to strike with the harpoon one of the numerous porpoises that were playing around the ship's bow, which procured a welcome din- ner of fresh " beef " to the whole crew. 26th. We had been preparing our cables and anchors 6th Feby during the first part of these twenty-four hours, and kept a good lookout for the Island of Ascension. At day- light it was seen about fifteen miles distant, and soon after we also descried a strange sail. We had the pleasure to recognize in it our commodore, the Clarkson, for whom hove to, that he might take the lead in piloting us to the anchorage. Standing along the northwest part of the island, it presented most dreary, rugged and barren mountains of a reddish gray color and uneven surface. In beating up, we had to pass close by a reef to the south- ward and westward of Sandy Bay, the water shallowing to about nine fathoms. Towards noon, dropped anchor in twenty-four fathoms, Crow Hill, bearing S. E. by S., the advance flows not allowing us to go into eight fath- oms, as we had intended. 2yth. At noon, went on board the Clarkson, and after dinner landed in the bay. It is formed by several sandy beaches, in the middle of which projects a high, rocky bluff head, where the "post office" is located. We found in it a memorandum in a bottle, stating that the ship Ocean, Capt. Hatch, fifteen days from the Isle of France io6 to the Cape of Good Hope, eleven. days thence to St. Helena and six days to this, had anchored here on the igth inst., caught nineteen turtles, and sailed again next day for New York. We left similar memoranda about the General Clarkson and the Maryland. While waiting for sunset, to go after the turtles, I had time to take a view of the island. It fully answered the first impress- ion its view created. The shore, except in the few places where there are sandy beaches, is bounded with cragged rocks, against which the sea dashes with fury, producing a most wild aspect. Rocks are piled upon rocks somewhat behind the shore, and succeeded by a dry, burnt up, volcanic soil, deprived of all vegetation. In the highest part of the Island " Green Mountain " a few forlorn goats are said to have a dreary retreat. We saw some tracks of them, also of torrents that seem in the rainy season to empty themselves in the ocean, but no water was found anywhere, Crow Hill runs from the margin of the bay where we laid at anchor. It's of moderate height and regular as- cent, but the heat was so oppressive and I so dry, that I had not courage to climb it, over a reddish, burnt up, extremely smooth ground. It's altogether a most desolate spot, and can be visited with no other view than to obtain a mess of fresh turtles. Our success in quest of them was not very great. The several parties sent out only caught fourteen, which were shared between the two ships' companies. They are of the largest I ever saw, weighing from four hun- dred to five hundred pounds each, and upwards. Abun- dance of fish were playing about the ship, and caught of all sizes, shapes, colors and descriptions, but none of them proved very palatable. A calm prevented our getting away again at night. It was not before ten in the morning that a light air en- abled us to depart, following the Clarkson, who saluted us with three cheers on taking final leave, to pursue her destination to Amsterdam. joy 28th. With light winds (trade), we proceeded to the N. W. On the 5th, with thick, cloudy weather, the rain poured down in torrents and enabled us to fill nine casks with water; this will prove a sufficient stock until the Lord in his mercy may gladden our hearts again by the sight of the American shore. Lat. o 53 S., Long. 26 10 W. On the yth, we crossed the line for the fourth time; 7th March Long, about 27 W., and, entering the North Atlantic Ocean, now longed for the N. E. trades, to make good progress towards our port. The meeting on the line of the two trade winds, the N. E. and S. E., producing a constant struggle, attended with alternate calms, squalls and generally much rain, our progress was, as in former instances, very slow, till the loth, when we reached the N. E. trades in about Lat. 4, Long. 30, which much revived our hopes and spirits. We made some excellent runs of two hundred and two hundred and twenty miles, and on the i8th March, ob- served in Lat. 19 3, Long, calculated 50 70. We had entered what is called the White Sea, but I cannot dis- cover anything justifying this appellation. The sea all over is spread with " sargasso," a kind of seaweed, gen- erally in small detached bundles, some times large patches, or forming long, narrow ribbons. As we approached the tropics, the wind began to fail, and we improved two days of light airs, with smooth sea, to set our people at work about the rigging, blocks, etc., painting the ship, and everything that might tend to improve the looks of the vessel. 2ist. This is now the twelfth day since we took the N. E. trades, which, mostly blowing a pleasant gale, carried us rapidly towards our destination. I am long- ing for arrival, anxious to hear from my friends, and my impatience may be increased since I can no longer dis- guise to myself that I begin to feel the effects of thirty- one months' hardships, privations and exposures under every climate. Lat. 22 15, Long. 55 10. io8 24th. For these three days we had made good advance (towards), tip to Lat. 27 9, but the trade winds seem now exhausted and we have had twenty-four hours of dead calm. At daylight, 25th, with a breeze from the N. E. we came up with and spoke the hrig Meldria, Capt. Spencer, seventy-eight days from Monte Video, for Phila. The supercargo and a Spanish gentleman who accompanied him to our ship, gave me some interesting information about Buenos Ayres, etc., and also European political news. 28th. We observed in Lat. 32 19, abreast of Bermuda, our longitude by reckening being 66 25, a few days of fair wind would now take us to New York, but the wind from the northward, with a head sea was against rapid progress. The wind shifting on the 3oth to the south- west, we gave chase to a brig ahead, with the intention to speak her, but she would not mind our signals. Another sail hove in sight from the eastward, crowding sails towards us, which we take to be a man-of-war. They hoisted British colors, and fired a gun as a signal for us to heave to. We should have been anxious to avoid the visit of the cruiser, under all circumstances, but were particularly so, from the uncertainty we were in, after the reports we had received several times during our voyage, of the state of the political relations between the United States and England. However, we were soon convinced that all attempts to escape would prove vain, and accordingly towards noon, threw the topsails aback. A boat soon after boarded us from the British frigate Horatio, said to be bound from the Chesapeake to Bermuda with dispatches. Mr. Monson had to go to the frigate with the ship's papers and logbook, but no impediment was thrown in our way to proceeding. We again got here a variety of interesting intelligence, amongst which, the existence since two months of an embargo on all American vessels, which accounted for our having met so few on the coast. After parting 109 from the frigate, 3ist March, we spoke the brig which we had been in chase of in the morning, from St. Kitts, for New London. At midnight, entered the Gulf Stream and continued our northerly course with fresh S. W. winds, with thick misty weather, so that we could not catch the sun, but our Lat. was by reckoning 37 70, Long. 73 30. ist April. Brought us a change of wind to N. E. at eleven at night. Sounded and got bottom on the Coast of America, in sixty fathoms, and next day at noon in thirty fathoms being about twenty leagues off the Delaware. 2d April. A six hours' calm was succeeded by a light breeze from S. S. W. which continued during the night, when the wind shifted to N. E. Hailed a large ship with a tier of guns, said to be from Phila., a Dane or Swede, and soon after the brig Lyon of and for New York. Several more sails in sight, at noon observed in Lat. 38 52. The weather cold, but not so thick and moist as it has been for some days past. END OF THE VOYAGE. 3d. Proceeded slowly with light S. E. airs, dying away to calm during the night. A number of sails, probably coasters, in sight. Were boarded in the morn- ing by a Delaware pilot. Lat. 39 57. 4th. Got in sight of the Highlands of Navesink, about 4th April ten leagues distant; beat to windward till after mid- night, firing guns for a pilot. In the morning, light airs from the eastward, freshening as it veered to the southward. With a fair breeze, stood in for Sandy Hook light house, making signals for pilot. In the evening about five oclock (being the 5th by sea reckoning), got abreast of the city of New York, and landed again on the same wharf whence had embarked on this voyage on the 5th of Sept., 1805. [FINIS.] no CREW OF THE SHIP " MARYLAND," FROM NEW YORK TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN, CANTON AND BACK, VIA CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. SEPTEMBER, 1805, TO APRIL, l8o8. Wages per month. Jonathan Perry, Jr. , Master, $50. Died on board, Dec. 3ist, 1807. S. Bayard, First Mate, 40. Discharged at Tongoy, Sept. loth, 1806. Joseph Herlitz, Second Mate, 30. Afterwards First Officer. Martin Monson, Third Mate, 25. Afterwards Second, First Officer and Captain. William Marshall, Second Mate, 30. Shipped in Canton, Oct. i7th, 1807. Lewis C. Cassin, Third Mate, 20. Shipped in Canton, Nov. i8th, 1807. Dr. W. Frost, Surgeon, 40. Henry Kurts, Boatswain, ----- 40. George A. Watson, Gunner, 22. James Carroll, Armourer, ----- 20. Louis LeRoy, Carpenter, ------ 20. Deserted at St. Joseph, Feby., 1807. John Bryson, Carpenter's Mate, - 18. Smith Merritt, Cooper, ------ 20. Moses Hitchcock, Fifer, 13. Thomas Vandervoort, Drummer, 12. Died at Canton, Dec. 7th, 1807. John Dasley, Steward, 19. Discharged at Oahu, July sth, 1807. John Thomas (black), Cook, 17. James Williams, Cook, ------ 16. Shipped at St. lago, Oct. 25th, 1805; discharged at Oahu, July sth, 1807. George Ratteree, Cook's Mate, 15. Deserted at Oahu, July icth, 1807. M. L. Durantel, Boy, 8. Gay Havens (black), Boy, 8. Samuel Rogers, Ordinary Seaman, 8. John Deas, Ordinary Seaman, - - - - 10. Fifteen Ordinary Seamen, ------- 12. One Ordinary Seaman, 14. Sixteen Ordinary Seamen, 16. Eleven Seamen, ---------- 18. " Jack," a native of Marquesas. Isaac Iselin, Supercargo.