ii ii ' i i 1 , ti J\ I S~^ i-^ ""flMNVSOl^ J>*' ^tiiiiKMY-^/ •vyj/n fTiw-s haV Al-IIBRA .V ^.: )S-ANGElfj-: .A:OFCALIF0% %a3MNfl3ViV ^^AHVHan# . irx^ ^P j'TT'inirw r/\T: ^a3AINl <.^\EUNIVERy/^ ^>.LOSANC wHani^' ^^mmuitS;^ ^UmARYOA, UlBM "^'Ho^my^^^ ■^''"'^ , ^OFCAUFOM^ ^10SANGEL% iVSOl^ ;aky(^ -^•UBRARY(9^ Han# ^'^^Aawan-i^ :V£KC»7^ IV^Ol^ %a3AlNfl3\\V* A VOYAGE TO JAPAN, KAMTSCHATKA, SIBERIA, TARTARY, AND VARIOUS PARTS OF COAST OF CHINA, IN H. M. S. BARRACOUTA. BY J. M. T RON SON, R.N WITH CHARTS AND VIEWS. LONDON: SMITH, ELDER & CO. M.DCCC.LIX. T75V LATE OFFICERS OF HER MAJESTY'S SHIP BARRACOUTA, IS AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED EY THEIR FRIEND AND MESSMATE, THE AUTHOR. PREFACE. During the late commission of Her Majesty's steam- sloop Barracouta, on the East India and China station, she was employed upon various interesting expeditions ; her light draught of water and great steam power rendering her peculiarly applicable for such purposes. I had the good fortune of visiting in her, in the years 1854, '55, and '56, various parts of the coast of China, the Japanese Islands, Kamtschatka, the coasts of Siberia and Tartary, and the island of Seghalien. I noted down, from time to time, whatever appeared to me to possess novelty or interest ; only regretting that I could not do justice to the scenery : and I have arranged my notes in a Narrative form. The coasts which I visited are now becoming more interesting to us, since the opening of China and vi PllEFACE. Japan to British commerce ; while the possession by Russia of the river Amoor, renders a better acquaint- ance with the coasts of Siberia and Tartary very needful to our maritime interests. I trust, therefore, that the information contained in this volume will be found acceptable. I am indebted for the charts and sketches to my friends and former messmates, Lieut. W. K. Bush, and Messrs. S. K. Preeman and P. H. May, R.N., to whom I take this opportunity of returning my warmest thanks. J. M. T. H.M.S. Hofjue, The Clyde, July, 1859. CONTENTS. CHAPTER T. PAOE Departure of Sir J. Stirling's squadron for Japan — Frencli frigate, Jean d' Arc, on shore — Muddy waters and mosquitoes — Japan in sight — Admiral's orders — Official inquiries — Arrival in the Port of Naga- saki, or Nangasaki — Scenery — Boats and batteries — Moonlight — Illuminated guardboats — ^Distant view of the city of Nagasaki — Barrncouta's anchorage — Vegetation — Dutch ships — Object of our visit ....... .... 1 CHAPTER II. Japanese boat chant, "Ah sin Yah" — Visits from officials — Their swords — Japanese military and working classes contrasted — Dress — Admiral grows restless — Scanty supplies — Jack's indignation — " Little Britain ;" its formation, geological and botanical— Moun- tain pepper — Fish — Visit of His Excpllency to the Governor of Nagasaki ........... CHAPTER III. Hate processions — Grand junks and discordant music — Second visit of Admiral to the Governor — Presents to British officers from the Japanese Government — Exorbitant charges— Japanese zeal — Eefuse presents — Erroneous opinion of England and the English — Meteoro- logical remarks — Beneficial effects of the climate . . . .17 viii CONTENTS. CHAPTER IV. PAGE Geographical position of Japan — Primitive races — Cities — Earliest accounts— Marco Polo — Firando, or Hirada — Erroneous ideas of Marco Polo — Pindo's visit to Bungo — St. Francis Xavier ; his successful labours — Exportation of gold — Spread of Roman Catholic faith— Persecution of Christians — Adams of Gillingham — Talents — Jealousy of Portuguese . . . . . . . . 22 CHAPTER V. Adams ■writes to Captain Saris to induce the East India Company to trade with Japan — Dutch already successful — Intolerance of Portu- guese — Action between Portuguese and Japanese in the harbour of Nagasaki — Bravery of Pessao — Destruction of Churches — Influence of Adams at Court — The first "Treaty" — Expulsion of Portu- guese and Massacre of Christians — Krusenstern — Captain Pellew, in H.M.S. Phaeton— Go]o\min 31 CHAPTER VI. Visit of United States Squadron — Commodore Perry proceeds to Jeddo — Visit of Admiral Poutatine — Russian Treaty — Dutch influence- United States Treaty— Dutch Treaty — Treaty with Great Britain framed by Kear-Admiral Sir J. Stirling 41 CHAPTER VII. Departure of the squadron — The sea — The petrel— 5arracot/to arrives at Hong-Kong— Monsoons— City of Victoria— Tai-pin Shan— The Club — Public buildings — Happy Valley— "The Press "—Geogra- phical position of the island— Pirates and their retreats — The Caldera — Madame Loviot — Expedition to Tyhoo Bay— Captain Parker visits the Chinese Admiral— Prisoners— AVe lunch with His Excellency — Mr. Caldwell — Chinese salute CONTENTS. ix CHAPTEE VIIT. PAGE Expedition against Kuhlan pirates — Island of Tylo engagement — The lorcha Amazona — Destruction of villages and junks— Mid-day rest —Cheroots and brandy — Captain Rooney — Pirates humbled . . G5 CHAPTER IX. The Rebels — Whampoa as it was and as it is — Tai-ping-wan's followers not Christians — The Pearl River — Blenheim Fort — Chinese naval review— Naval engagement — Bi-ight morning and gloomy evening — Stray shots — Caged heads — Action No. 2. — Ruse to secure Euro- pean mercenaries— Lorcha captured by rebels — Rescued by Captain G. Parker — Return to Hong Kong — Prata shoal — " Living Age" — "Tom Bowling" . . . . . . . . . . 72 CHAPTER X. Preparations for sea — Departure — Fatsizio — Weather — Alceste — H.M.S. President — A gale— Sailor's pets — H.M.S. Encounter — Kamtschatka — Avatska Bay — Physical appearance of the country — Petropo- lovski — Arrival of squadron — Town deserted — Greek church — Kamtschatka dog . . . . . . . .85 CHAPTER XI. Capture of Russian whaler — Rakouina — French officers — Fraternisation — Successful fishing — Russian batteries — La Perouse — Graves of the slain — Banquet on board H.I. M.S. Alceste — Captain Cochrane — Sarana — Cuckoo — Magnetic bearings — Description of Peninsula of Kamtschatka or Kamchatka — Conspiracy of 1771 — Bolsheretsk — Natural History — Weather 99 CHAPTER XT I. Departure from Petropolovski — The Raven "Grip" — Arrival off Cape Elizabeth — II. M.S. Amphitrite — Whalers — Obman's Bay — The weather — Coast of Siberia — "Ayan" — Tungouse — Huts and canoes CONTENTS. PAGE — Spears — Botany — The town — Iron steamer destroj'ed — Forbear- ance of Captain Frederick — DeiDarture from Ayan — We meet with Commodoi-e Elliott's squadron — Ghiliacks 118 CHAPTER XIII. H.M.S. Hornet — H.I.M.S. Constantine — Destruction of the Okhotsk — Sarratt — Capture of the Oi'eta, with crew of wrecked Diana — Lieutenant Pouschkin — Description of wreck at Simoda — Seghalien — Isle d'Langli — Eussian prisoners . 136 CHAPTER XIV. Straits of Sangar — City of Matsmai — Arrival at Hakodadi — H.M.S. Pique and Saracen — Arrival at Nagasaki — Japanese regulations — Errors in old chart — Kurile islands — Japanese progress in the English language — Little Britain improved — Our summer residences and our recreations — Arrival of Eacouater with mails — The squad- ron — Prisoners leave Barracouta — Ships sail for Castries Bay — Bar- racouia sails for Shanghai . CHAPTER XV. Shanghse, or Shanghai — Foreign settlement — Good feeling and hospitality of residents — Dollars — IJacecourse — Graves — Shipping — Exports and Imports — Cultivation of land — Beans, Cotton, "Wheat — City of Shanghai — Temples and Tea-houses — Shops — Middle Temple — The Cangue — Traces of Imperialists ....... 168 CHAPTER XVI. Graves — Memorial Gates — Graves in South of China — Mourning — Pic- nics — The river — Lung-hwa pagoda — The country — Woosung — Opium-ships — Process of testing the drug — Smoking opium — Walled town of Pao-shun — Theatre^Chinese fashionable mode of travelling — Bath-houses — Qui-tze — Tai-ping-Wan — French mis- sionaries ........... CONTENTS. CtlAPTEE XVII. PAGE High Mass for the French killed in action— Implements of husbandry — Dr. Lockhart's hospital — Piratical cruise — Chusan — City forti- fications — Temple — Graves of the British — Potoo Island — Buddha — Bonzes — Chinhai — Opium Clipper — Ningpo wares — City and fort of Chinhai— Temple of Confucius— Cattle— Salt . . . 200 CHAPTEE XVIII. Massacre of pirates by islanders — Arrival at Shanghai — Thanks of officials — Erroneous statement of " Kreutz Zeitung" as to our treatment of Russian prisoners — Fire at Hong Kong — Residents of the AVest End — Robbers— Convicts — The city by night — Police — Pinghoi Bay — Preparations for sea . . . 224 CHAPTEE XIX. The weather — We sail for the North — River Min— Pagoda island — Buddhism — Rain — GutzlafF islet — Kiusiu — Volcanoes — Tang-suma- sima — Gale — Cape Yatzouda — Headlands — Scenery — Arrival at Hakodadi — The harbour — The town — Bath-house and bathers — Japanese — Married and single — Physical appearance . . . 241 CHAPTEE XX. Japanese anxiety to learn English — Excursion — Fort — Teaching the "young idea how to shoot" — Houses — The interior — Mountains — Capes T.*juka and Naidejda — Gulf of Tartary — SufFrein Bay — Beechy Head — Tully Island — Greek Cross — Ghiliacks — Russian frigate Pallas — Barracouta harbour — Forests — Russian settlement — Batteries — Fortescue island ....... 2G0 CHAPTEE XXI. Natives fishing — Cape Lesseps — Appearance of Coast — Destitution Bay — Wild fowl — Natives — Worship — Sickness— De Castries Bay — The Amoor important to Russia — Melting of the Ice— Through the CONTENTS. AVoods — Graves of Finlanders — Her Majesty's Birthday — Capercailzie — Natural history — Return to Japan — French frigates Virginie and Constantine — Enter Bay of Hakodadi 27' CHAPTEE XXIT. Arrival of H.M.S. Hornet — Prince Imperial —Coal — Japanese desire to learn — Small arms exercise — Beauty of the country — Tea-garden — The Ainos — Old cannon — Governor visits Commodore — Cemetery — Sail for Tartary — The coast — Shelter Bay — Bullocks in view — Fishing and walking — Bullock Bay . ...... 294 CHAPTER XXIII. Fogs — Syhille on shore — Arrival at Barracouta Harbour — In search of a river — Forest life — Meet with natives — Peony and cypress — Our supper and bedroom — Sleeping under difficulties — Our compass and return — The river and the country — Huts and natives — Ghiliack words ............ 310 CHAPTER XXIV. Flora of Bullock Bay — Wood and Water — The Upupa — Sybille Bay — Tartars' early toilette — Grass Oula — Gnats and mosquitoes — Seals in Pique Bay — Excursion — Tartar horses — Wild plants and wild fowls— Our canoe and voyage — Tartar houses — Eeturn to Hakodadi — American seamen .... .... 326 CHAPTEE XXV. Summer evening in Japan — Tea party — Dancing — Japanese music — Evening costume— Pilchard fishing — Mode of preparing the oil — Temples — Bells — Decorations — Bonzes — Cemetery — Library — Bud- dhists— Sintoos — Foreign burial-place — Spanish guns — The vine — The town of Hakodadi — Shops — Doctor and daughters — Bazaar — Prices of provisions— Japanese politicians — Stores — Police . .341 CONTENTS. xiii CHAPTEE XXVI. PAGE Coasting — Fogs — Port Seymour— Exploring Gilbert's River — Unfriendly Tartars — Target practice — Islands — Eocks of Port Seymour — Vic- toria Bay — Napoleon gulf — Fishing boats — Port Dundas— Mantchu Tartars at Supper — At Eifle practice— Port May — Port Bruce — Houses — Hornet Bay ......... 364 CHAPTER XXVII. French sailor of the Jason — Port Louis — Gold Diggings— Sail for Chousan — The Corea — Natives — Costumes — Manners — -A ramble on shore- Beauty of the country — My militaiT escort — Description of Corea — Arrival at Nagasaki — Enforce the treaty . . . . . . 384 CHAPTER XXVIII. Sir Michael Seymour and Japanese Governor — Bazaar — The city — Temples — Brazen arch — Gods —Gardens — Dezima — Our Guards — Occupations — The Dairi — Morality — Temple and miniature gardens — Ziogoon — The laws — Fatsizio — Printing — Imports and Exports — Departure, and arrival at Hong Kong . . . ,400 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Japanese Gakden ........ to face Title. Track Chart op the Northern Cruize of H.M.S. Barraootjta „ p. 1 Chart of Nagasaki Harbour ......,,„ 5 Chart of Entrance to the River Amoor , . . . „ „ 120 View op Isle op Langle (vignette) . .... on ,, 14G Chart of Barracouta Harbour, Coast op Tartart . . to/ace ,, 271 Approach to Castries Bay, Pie de Langle, Jonquiere Bay, and Seghalien, from the Anchorage, Eugenie Archipelago, Tartary » » 282 View of Castries Bay » „ 283 Japanese Coin (value three-halfpence) . , . . „ „ 3-15 Chart of Port Seymour, Coast of Tartary . . . „ „ 365 View of Port Seymour . do. . . . . . „ „ 366 Table Hill, and Spotted Hill, Guerin Gulp, and North Part op Capricieuse Bay >, „ 373 Lines op Coast in Guerin Gulp . . . . . . ; „ 374 View op Port May „ „ 378 Port Louis, Coast of Tartary, and Cape Vasbron, Corea „ „ 385 PERSONAL NARRATIVE V^OYAGE IN H.M.S. BARMCOUTA. CHAPTER I. Departure of Sir J. Stirling's squadron for Japan — French frigate, Jean d' Arc, on shore — Muddy waters and mosquitoes — Japan in sight— Admiral's orders — Official inquiries — Arrival in the Port of Nagasaki, or Nanga- saki — Scenery — Boats and batteries — Moonlight — Illuminated guard" boats — Distant view of the city of Nagasaki — Barracoutas anchorage — Vegetation — Dutch ships — Object of our visit. On the 7th of September, 1854, Sir James Stirlmg's squadron, consistmg of 11. M. ships Winchester, 50, flag; Encounter, screw streamer, 14 ; Styx, paddle-wheel, 6 ; and Barracouta, paddle-wheel, 6 guns, sailed from the mouth of the Yang-tez-o-Kiang for Japan. The ships had been at anchor for some time previous off Woo- sung, anxiously awaiting the arrival of H.I.M.S. Jean D' Arc, with the Prench Admiral. This ship, when within a few hours' sail of the British squadron, struck on the north bank ; one of the many which render the naviga- tion of this important river so truly dangerous, con- tinually shifting and increasing in size, from the vast z-;- 2 VOYAGE OP H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. amount of mud and sand brought down each tide from the alluvial land through which the river flows. After a good deal of labour in lightening the French frigate, she floated, and was towed into deep water on the 18th of August ; upon examination she was found to be so much damaged by the accident as to require more than a month's repairs in the dock at Shanghai, when it would have been rather late in the season to visit the Kussian possessions in the North. Much disappoint- ment was felt throughout the squadron at the loss of our gallant allies, of whose presence we were now deprived through the treachery (it is said) of the pilot, who ran the ship over the wreck of the Old Cornwall, lost on the same bank twenty-five years ago. Once on the blue waters, away from the influence of the muddy river — the son of the ocean — which tinges the water for upwards of fifty miles from its mouth, we bid adieu to mosquitoes and the black fly, which almost darken the air in the vicinity of fishing stakes, and by their combined efforts assist in rendering the life of an European perfectly miserable during tlie summer months. We breathe the pure sea-breeze and feel the bad effects of the atmosphere of China speedily disappear ; the sky is without a cloud and the temperature genial ; the poor invalid feels the change and already begins to hope, and raising his drooping head sighs for the coveted anchorage of Nagasaki. On the afternoon of the 7th September, we sighted the Island of Kiusiu, one of the principal islands of THE PORT OF NAGASAKI. 3 Japan ; many rocky islets extend along the coast, and as we near the port of Nagasaki, the Gotto Isles become visible. The Admiral signals the squadron to form " line of battle," and the commanders of the various ships repair on board the flag-ship to receive orders. These were soon communicated to the officers and crews, and related principally as to our rules of conduct towards" the Japanese — civility towards themselves and obedience t© their laws. As we had an object to gain in visiting Japan, it behoved us to create a good opinion as to our- selves and our institutions. The evening was calm, the water serenely blue, reflecting the white square sails of the many junks which lay on its bosom. As we entered the Bay of Pappenberg (the outer anchorage of Naga- saki), many official boats approached, and by waving flags and bunches of paper warned us not to enter the inner or middle anchorage. One personage, who appeared to be the custom-house officer, held up a white wand with some document attached, written in the Dutch language; this was passed on to the flag-ship. It contained a list of questions as to where we were from ; our business ; our intended stay ; and ordered the ships to anchor, at least for the present, in the outer anchorage. The entrance, sufficiently deep for the largest line-of-battle ship, was picturesque ; on either side the land rose high and steep, clothed with fir and cedar, from which peeped at intervals many a large gun. The right side was particularly well defended, having well-formed batteries, with guns of large calibre, 4 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BAKRACOUTA. each provided with a separate shed ; behind each battery was placed a bomb-proof magazine of pyramidal shape. A large number of soldiers and gazers were collected around a flag-staff erected on the summit of the highest hill, all anxious to witness the unexpected arrival of strange ships. We anchored in a retired and lonely nook, the official boats came nearer, so that we had opportunities of inspecting them minutely ; they are of peculiar shape, low^ and broad, the bow suddenly narrow- ing to a raised and sharp prow, from which depended a leash of black ropes, which appeared at a distance as if a net had been thrown over it ; the stern abrupt and broad. The forepart of the boat was roofed over for the reception of the officers ; the rowers, eight in number, standing with their backs to the stern, propelled the shallop forwards at a good rate, keeping time to a musical chant, at first curious, but which soon became fatiguing to our ears. All the boats were very clean, and well-built of white deal, fine grained: some were built of cedar. The plentiful use of copper in the construction of junks and boats, gave an idea of the quantity of that valuable mineral distributed throughout the country. The scenery around is delightful; hill-sides cultivated in terraces ; shady valleys, whose sides were clothed with pines and evergreens; pleasant hamlets embowered in groves, with gardens and mountain rivulets ; children gambolling, and peaceful peasants enjoying their evening rest, by sauntering towards the water's edge, with their tiny pipe, which appears to be ever in use. y m »^»ijA^kKL £LAiiBOUIt. I>U.Fn.YO.'< MKIIOUt. II » i'*i 7 is h ii^'&X "T-0, '■■■'. " ^-^ .^'».«-« MOONLIGHT — ILLUMINATED GUARD-BOATS. 5 The moon, as slie rose from behind the distant moun- tains appeared brighter than usual — lighting up many a prominent hill and wooded islet, and throwing into dark shade our sheltered anchorage. Not a cloud sullied the firmament ; the air, clear and bracing, imparted a joyousness to our spirits, and made us contrast very forcibly the climate of Hong Kong on a September evening with that of Japan in the same month. A line of guard-boats were placed around the squadron, for the purpose, the authorities informed us, of keeping away troublesome intruders, such as smugglers; the real object being to prevent any person landing from the ships. Each guard-boat was provided with a lantern, similar to those used in China, and bore from her stern two flags attached to spears, one displaying the government arms, the other the arms of the officer in command of the boat. The Admiral received some of the principal Japanese officials on board the Winchester. Like many of the Eastern nations, they exhibited no symptoms of curiosity in examining the heavy armament, or in witnessing the admirable discipline and order of a man-of-war. They promised supplies of vegetables and water, and to point out an anchorage near the city on the following morning, and took their departure with the courteous demeanour for which they are so distinguished. Early on the morning of the 8th, the ships Aveighed anchor, and proceeded to the middle harbour, which is prettily situated, and within sight of the city of Nagasaki and of the Dutch settlement. The surface of the water 6 VOYAGE OF H M.S. BARRACOUTA. was studded with numerous islets, tlirown up at random by some volcanic action : tliey are covered by the pine, camphor-tree, and luxuriant camellia. All the islets, with one or two exceptions, were fortified ; and some rejoiced in three rows of guns, placed one over the other : the upper tier so high as to be perfectly harmless in repelling an invading foe. The Barracouta anchored in ten fathoms of water, within range of a long and low battery, without parapet. Here were placed guns of large calibre, mortars, and field-pieces ; the latter apparently of European origin. On our right was the entrance to the inner harbour. A row of junks, connected together by chains, obstructed the passage for ships ; and, as if this formidable array were not sufficient to guard the passage, the hills on both sides were decorated with batteries in terraces, each having from six to ten guns — a vast expenditure of brass. Barracks, or guard stations for men and officers, were placed at intervals near the edge of the water, having before them curtains of cotton chequered blue and white. In the distance we could see the city, which has a southern aspect, and is backed by a range of moun- tains. It extends along the shore for some distance, and retires by an easy ascent through a pretty valley. A small river flows through its centre ; some of the streets run at right angles, others parallel to it. We were desirous of a more minute inspection, but were doomed to be disappointed : at least for a considerable period. Cultivation of every accessible spot of land seemed to THE WEATHER — DEZIMA. 7 be the order of the day. Beautiful fields were covered with rich crops, now turning yellow, the useful batata [Batata convolvulus), Zea Mays, turnips, and radishes ; the pine, cypress, and yew, were seen in clusters, groves, and plantations ; and the long and graceful bamboo adorned the valleys. Owing to the steepness of the hills and the frequent rains in spring, the land is cultivated in ter- races, which, from a distance, have a pretty appearance ; and neat tea-gardens and houses are seen in each sheltered spot. The weather, fine, bright, and enjoyable, made each one anxious to ramble on shore. We were promised the use of an island for exercise, but as yet permission had not been granted. Junks, of various shapes and sizes, flitted about ; some gaily decorated with flags, others with heavy square sails, laced up the centre, took their departure for some of the neighbouring islands. A Dutch steamer and merchant ship were at anchor ofi* Dezima, a small fan-shaped island, on which the Dutch factory is built, and where the few foreigners connected with the establishment pass a secluded existence. The island is connected with the main land by a narrow bridge; and the number of residents is limited to eleven. Behind us the country is hilly, tending in one direction towards the city; and, in another, taking a south- westerly course towards the sea. A luxurious foliage crowns the summits ; evergreen shrubs cling to the rocks ; and the humble, but graceful ferns, in glen and valley, lend an additional charm to this strange and 8 TOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. gifted land. It is hardly to be wondered that the Japanese desire no intercourse with other people : frugal in habits, content with their own laws, institu- tions, and natural productions, they require no succour from other nations. They relieve strangers in distress, but take no recompense in return. With a large standing army, and many forts, they think themselves capable of defending their own shores, and repressing any civil commotions which may occur. The object of our visit to Japan was to form a treaty of trade and friendship with the Emperor. The Governor at first declined to receive Sir James Stirling, but sent couriers to Jeddo to inform the Govern- ment of the arrival of the squadron, and of Her Majesty's wdsh ; he also sent presents of fruit, vege- tables, and sweetmeats, to each ship, for the officers, and some pigs and yams for the crew^s, and wished to supply us during our stay with all our requirements ; but the Admiral declined receiving any more without paying a fair value for each article. CHAPTER 11. Japanese boat chant, " Ah sin Yah" — Visits from officials — Their swords — ■ Japanese military and working classes contrasted — Dress — Admiral grows restless — Scanty supplies — Jack's indignation — "Little Britain;" its formation, geological and botanical — Mountain pepper — Fish — Visit of His Excellency to the Governor of Nagasaki. All day long our ears were wearied by the continual chaunt of the boatmen as they propelled their boats to and fro : All sin ydU — All si?i yah, ever the same, and monotonous in the extreme. By degrees the timidity of the natives wore off, and we had frequent visits from officers, some on duty, others from curiosity which they in vain endeavoured to repress. The machinery of the Barracouta appeared to puzzle them. They asked per- mission to take drawings of the various cylinders, pistons, cranks, &c. ; and through the courtesy of Mr. Boulton, the chief engineer, they were enabled to obtain plans, which gave them infinite delight. There are many grades of Japanese officers : those of the rank of lieutenant, and above that rank, wear two swords over the left hip — one short, and one slightly curved and long, with a small knife in the same sheath ; the latter is of wood, covered over with polished shagreen, of a greenish tint, and various ornaments, in 10 VOYAGE OP H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. bronze and silver, decorate the hilt ; the guard, which is button-shaped, is curiously inlaid with silver and gold : they object to exhibit the blade, as it is considered an insult to draw the sword before a friend. I had frequent opportunities ere we left Japan of examining the sword- blades ; which are of cast-steel, very hard, highly polished, and sharp. There is a marked contrast in appearance between the working class and officials: the former, of fair average height, are athletic and healthy-looking fellows; the upper part of the body being muscular and well developed, and from continual exercise bronzed by constant exposure to the sun and every variety of weather : they are piu-e specimens of the Mongol race, with high cheek bones, small oblique eyes, jet-black hair, and scanty beards; the crown of the head is shorn, and the hair gathered from the back and sides, is formed into a short tail, which being drawn forwards, is depressed and fastened over the shorn part. They wear a slight turban, which is tied into a knot over the forehead. The rest of the dress is rather primitive : a simple girdle of blue cotton around the waist, with a cross piece attached, passing between the legs; and a pair oi footless stocMngs, of blue and white cotton, extending from the ankle to within a couple of inches of the knees, complete their attire. In rainy weather, a loose cloak, made from the leaves of the bamboo, and a hat from the stems of the same plant, serve to keep out some of the rain. They are a friendly and good-humoured looking class. APPEARANCE AND DRESS OF JAPANESE OFFICIALS. 11 The officials with whom we came in contact were reserved at first, but very polite and courteous in their bearing ; they salute strangers on approaching or retiring with a low bow, and an exclamation of o-hi-oh ! which, I am told, is a usual salutation, without much meaning. They are thin, pale, and emaciated in appearance, as if from the excessive use of tobacco and indolent habits, as they seldom take any exercise ; but their eyes are bright and intelligent. They vary their dress according to the season, and in the present, autumn, the dress is peculiarly suited to the climate : a loose thin robe of dark material, made from wool and silk, is fastened over a loose pair of trowsers, of similar material, but lighter in colour. On the left side, the swords are thrust through the girdle ; and on the right depend a copper ink-bottle and penholder, and the ever-needful pipe and tobacco pouch. A pair of slippers, generally made from rice straw, are put off and on at pleasure, when on board ship, or in the government boats. An official mark is stamped on the back of the robe ; and if the wearer happens to be a grandee, his own armorial bearings are also imprinted on the dress. Up to the 20th of September there was no reply from Jeddo, and the Admiral, naturally growing impatient, informed the authorities at Nagasaki, that if he did not receive a reply in a few days, he should proceed to the seat of Government. Every one felt the hardship of being detained so long on board ship, and in sight of such an inviting country. The Governor was desirous 12 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BAREACOUTA. that the squadron should remain in the port of Nagasaki, rather than proceed to Jeddo, and allowed iis to pur- chase food through the Dutch authorities at Dezima. The supply was rather scanty and of indifferent quality ; pigs small, fat, and soft, resembling the Chinese breed of the same animal ; fowls small and half starved, not at all like the fine birds we saw on other occasions. The vege- tables were calculated to give us a poor opinion of the agriculture of Japan, The natives must have thought that anything in the shape of vegetables would have suited an English sailor, as they sent an immense pile of cJiickweed, to which Jack gave a " fair wind " over the ship's side. Many persons imagined that this bountiful and delicate supply was to give us a distaste for another visit. It was also supposed, though unjustly so, that the Dutch, jealous of our obtaining the same privileges that they enjoy, stimulated the Japanese to their present exclusive treatment of the British. I think that His Majesty the present King of the Netherlands, in his new treaty with Japan, is desirous that other nations should enjoy the same privileges so long granted to the Dutch. Permission was granted to the officers and men of the squadron to land on a small island, Nazumasima, facetiously denominated " Little Britain ; " and here I landed for the first time on the 2nd of October. It is less than half a mile in circumference, one of the smallest in the port that is inhabited, nearly covered with the fir. An open glade on the summit afforded a NAZUMASIMA, OR " LITTLE BRITAIN." 13 place for athletic sports, in which I now found many of my brother officers engaged. I recognised many familiar plants, which are carefully cultivated in green- houses at home : camellia japonica, azalea, rhododen- dron, many species of fig tree, the cypress, and cedar ; bindweeds of many varieties, acacias, the rose and briar, the humble coltsfoot and trefoil, and thirteen species of ferns ; also the bamboo, and cruciform and umbelliferous plants : in fact, it formed a small botanical garden, and created an eager desire to see something more of Japan. Here also was food for the geologist and naturalist ; pieces of pumice on the beach, and grumous masses of trap rock, thrown up in various directions, told of the origin of the island ; various shells, from the most minute to the large royal crab, invited the conchologist to learn something of the shelly inhabitants of these waters. The thrush and goldfinch intermingled their notes, occasionally interrupted by the very unmusical crow, which keeps up from early dawn a most discordant strain : where the birds roost at night I know not, but on their appearance in the morning they bring a supply of small red berries, which they drop on the decks ; these, when bruised have a delightful perfume, and are, according to the authority of M. Gosgovitch, mountain pepper— Pi/J AMQWM' vjr.Fcovt or ^ttercn^ to Wt^ 4 SauncbrtM , at SetUe unchcrvLqt 53° r'ir, c SOUNDING THE AMOOK. 121 shoals and channels for a considerable distance. They found that the water shallowed gradually in a south- west direction, to three fathoms near the mouth of Obman's Bay ; from this towards Cape Romberg, there was a shoal covered at low water from one to two fathoms in depth, and many others of loose sand, which are now marked on the new chart published by order of the Admiralty. A cmTcnt set to the north at the rate of two knots an hour : " greatest rise and fall of the tide, ten feet." The weather was very stormy and wet on the 2nd and early part of the 3rd of July. The wind blew from the south-east squally, the barometer falling to 29*6 inches ; and on the 4th, the mercury fell to 29-08 inches : I have never seen the mercury lower, though I have been in the habit of registering it three times daily. The Barracouta moved her position daily, in order to effect soundings ; and, being of light draught of water, was better adapted to the purpose than the Pique or Amphitrite : which also were cruising in other direc- tions. On the 5 th we sailed along the coast towards Cape Marie, the north-western point of Seghalien. Be- tween this and Cape Elizabeth the land recedes, forming North Bay. The country appeared more fertile than any lately visited by us ; undulating hills and gentle valleys opening towards the gulf, with shrubs and trees, added a refreshing beauty to the scenery. The Amphitrite met with an American whaler, which had been into a bay near the Amoor for water. The 123 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BAREACOUTA. captain of the latter stated that he was informed by a native that the alUed squadron, under Commodore EUiott, visited Castrees Bay, and there destroyed some small villages. In speaking of the difficulty of navigating ships in this gulf, he said that shoals were continually shifting, and that during the past twelve months two whalers had been lost by becoming imbedded in one of them. On the 7th July, the squadi'on sailed for the port of Ayan in Siberia ; and on the evening of the 8th, the atmosphere being clear, we sighted land at the distance of fifty miles. The wind was light, a breeze just sufficient to move the ship through the water ; the sun, deep red, set behind a snoAvy peak, leaving a night clear and cool, without a cloud to hide the brightness of countless stars, which studded the deep blue vault above. Next morning- being within thirty miles of Ayan, we got up steam and stood in towards the port, in full expectation of seeing well-armed batteries. We met with vast quantities of drift-wood, washed doAvn from the hills by streams of dissolving snow. We had a clear view of the country as we advanced : the hills and mountains were covered with snow, more especially the northern aspect, and those parts inland sheltered from the moist sea air ; the wide plains and valleys, and those parts of the hill-sides exposed to the sun's rays were already free of snow, and clad in their summer garb, bright and green. The coast line appeared rugged, and in some parts precipitous ; the headlands were high, sharp, and well defined in their outlines : a heavv surf broke over a COAST OF SIBERIA— AY AN. 12 o rocky shoal which extended northward of Vneshnei Cape. The country, though mountainous, did not assume the boldness and sublimity of Kamtschatka : here the moun- tains were in ridges, without any definite shape, whilst in Kamtschatka they appear from a distance as isolated peaks. As we entered the port, we could not but admire the beautiful scenery of this calm retreat, notwith- standing our warlike mission. On each side of the port a prominent headland projects. Cape Vneshnei, or outer cape, is in lat. 56° .25' 50" N., long., 138° 25' 50" E. ; the other, west of this, is distant about five miles. Prom this bay the harbour runs between Yellow Cape and Cape Quaichy, in a line NNW. of the opening to the sea SSE. Our appearance caused a commotion amongst the good people of Ay an. The Russian flag was lowered by a soldier, who shouldered his carbine and marched away. Horses were trotting to and fro, and the inhabitants were evidently meditating a move from their homes. On each side of us were hills, whose abrupt faces were naked and precipitous, composed of blue slate and sand- stone, in strata forming an angle of 55° with the surface of the water : some of the slate appeared pushed up- ward in curves by a harder rock. The hills sloped into deep and well-wooded valleys, opening at right angles to the harbour ; and mountain streams, passing through the beds of the valleys, emptied themselves into the harbour. Before us, at the distance of a mile, and 124< VOYAGE OF II.M.S. BARRACOUTA. bounding the harbour to the north, a wide valley stretched away for some miles; the sides of the hills forming it Avere covered with trees ; the pale green birch contrasting pleasantly with the darker foliage of the stately pine, which at intervals overtopped all other trees. Two valleys ran at right angles to this; the openings alone being visible from our present position. A large storehouse, with flagstaff before it, stood above a shingled beach in the mouth of the valley, on the right, the entrance to the town. A few whalers were at anchor, and a small schooner was drawn up near the storehouse. We could not discern any trace of batteries, though we were led to believe that Ayan was defended by three strong ones ; a captain of one of the whalers informed us that the batteries had lately been razed and the guns removed. We steamed out to the AmpJiitrite, to inform Captain Prederick^of the state of afl'airs, and returned to the harboiu' in the evening and anchored. Next day a guard of marines was sent on shore, to protect a Avorking party, employed in cutting wood and watering the ship ; the stream from which we procured our supply, ran through a pretty valley abreast of the ship. I landed and wandered along the beach; and turning round a prominent rock, came unexpectedly upon a very curious and primitive hut : a ridge pole resting at each end on two sticks crossed at the points, raised about three feet from the ground, supported a couple of bullocks' hides, which were thrown over it TUNGOUSE SPEAR. 125 in a careless manner ; the crossed sticks acted as stretchers, and were three feet apart. This miserable dwelling was the hunting-lodge of some poor Tmigouse, who had decamped in a hurry, leaving behind him an old rifle, hunting-spear, and canoe. The interior of the hut was filthy : an old sheep-skin in one corner formed a bed ; and in another a large number of birds were piled together in various stages of decomposition — ducks, divers, puffins, and parrots. The rifle-barrel was rusted and honey-combed, the stock and lock of ancient date, and the whole thing perfectly harmless ; unless to any one who should be rash enough to discharge it. The canoe, a perfect model of neatness, was con- structed of a light framework nine feet long, sharp at both ends, and covered with the skins of some animal ; the hair being removed, a circular aperture in the centre surrounded by a narrow ledge was adapted to encircle the waist of the fisher, as he squatted in the canoe; two loops were attached to the sides for spears, and for a double-bladed paddle with which it is propelled. Proud of my prize, I marched off" with it to the watering streams, and left it in charge of a " blue jacket," who, with the bump of destructiveness largely developed, launched my canoe in the shallow stream, and ere he reached deep water, succeeded in tearing it in sundry places, rendering it useless : I arrived in time to see it capsize with its jolly freight, who got a good sousing. The spear was a curious instrument of destruction : a light shaft, two inches in circumference, and four 126 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. feet long, was tipped on one end with bone, having a sht in the centre for the reception of a small barbed point ; the latter was of copper, about two inches in length, wedge-shaped at one extremity, and barbed at the other ; it was connected in the middle by a double line of gut, which diverged from the attachment ; each end being neatly bound to the shaft, about a foot from either extremity. A hand-board, which measured a foot in length, completed the apparatus ; the base fitted to the hand, and had a hole for the thumb ; a shallow groove ran along the centre, with an ivory stop projecting. In throwing the spear, the hand is held horizontally over the head ; the spear, fitting in the groove close to the stop, is balanced by the thumb when thrown ; the hand-board acts as a lever : the barb, in striking a bird, leaves the end of the shaft, which is dragged by the woimded animal or bird, till caught against the ledge of a rock, branch of a tree, or some other obstacle. Turning up a deep valley, I walked by the banks of a shallow stream, which was overhung by hazel, birch, and alder ; some branches stretched across so low as to form obstacles to the progress of the water, which rolled over them, forming miniature cascades, bubbling in the deep solitude. The dissolving snow trickled down the sides of the valley, paying tribute to the greater stream. I was surprised to find a variety of wild flowers in bloom : rhododendron, azaleas, many of the cruciferae, violets, the double ranunculus, forget-me-not, larkspur, TAKING POSSESSION OF AYAN. 127 and iris, wild celery, dog-rose, and sarana ; with many others, whose names and properties I know not. The Bheum Bhaponticum, or Siberian rhubarb, grows in open places near the sea-shore ; the roots are in clusters, a great part being above the surface, and grow in dry and stony places : the stalks, though short, Avere suffi- ciently grown to form a very agreeable and salutary dish. A pretty little animal, which appeared to me to be a squirrel, leaped from branch to branch ; it was a little larger than a rat, its tail delicately fringed, colour black and pale brown, in alternate stripes running from snout towards the tail, the belly yellow. Captain Frederick took possession of the town of Ayan, in the name of the allies, on the 10th of July. He posted sentries around the church and Governor's house, and immediately issued a proclamation, to the effect that private property would be respected, and inviting the inhabitants to return to their homes : copies were posted in various parts of the town. It was hoped that the inhabitants would appreciate the generous intentions of the captors, and return, as it was rumoured that they were suffering many privations a few miles off. Some Americans had already landed from the schooner and established themselves in a store, which they fitted up for the sale of various articles : blankets, cutlery, books, flour, brandy, sugar, tobacco ; or, as they styled it, "a speculation in notions." Notwithstanding the absence of the Russians, they managed to carry on a fair trade with the whalers and ships of war : prices J 28 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. were very moderate, considering the expense of trans- porting a cargo. Tlie town is in a valley, running east and west ; the greater number of the houses are built on the northern side, on an easy rising ground. Near the harbour are the Government storehouses, strongly built of logs, and roofed with iron painted red ; the windows being glazed, and barred with iron. A covered colonnade runs along the outside of the houses, and there is a flag-staff and platform for sentries to stand in front. Next to the store- houses was a large log-house in an unfinished state ; a little further on, the hospital stood, in a low field, wet and swampy : a very unfit place, and most unhealthy. I cannot conceive how such a place could have been selected, when there were so many dry spots of good elevation to be had, in the vicinity of the barracks. The hospital was two stories high, with commodious wards and dispensary ; the doors were covered with the skins of reindeer, which tended to modify the extreme rigour of the climate. A narrow stream running through the valley, divided the town in two parts : the southern side contained rude huts and houses, and a barrack for Cossacks ; the houses on the north were in rows, each house detached : many of them had small gardens in front. The Russian barracks, were not at all in a creditable state ; the building was a large Avooden structure of two stories, the under one for the men : inclined benches for beds ran along the centre, beneath which were small cavities AYAX. 129 for the reception of the soldiers' kits and working utensils ; the ii})pcr story was divided into small rooms, warm and comfortable; some of them still furnished, and no doubt lately occupied by officers. The priest and physician resided near the barracks in a neat double house. The town Avas supplied with a very fine draw- well, roofed over, and in close connection with a bake- house, and there were some stores or shops, Avith various commodities, from Cognac brandy to Sheffield cutlery. A very handsome Greek church stood at the end of the town, in the prettiest part of the valley, and near to a shaded grove ; the interior was neat, and similar to that at Petropolovski ; and it was supplied with a peal of bells. Every precaution was taken by the senior officers of the squadron, to protect the sacred edifice from violation. The Governor's house, situated on a rising gromid near the church, was a long and- low structure, Avith a small garden in front, surrounded by a paling ; a porch Avith a door projected from the front of the house. Entering by the porch, on the right, was a large office, with desks and shelves ; many boxes of useful materials lay scattered about — thermometers, charts, garden seeds, &c. A door on the left led to a comfortable sitting- room, fitted with modern furniture and a very good stove ; a folding-door communicated Avitli the drawing- room which Avas furnished Avith sofas, lounges, &c., covered Avith green damask ; the Avails being painted of a corresponding colour. There Avere bagatelle-boards. 130 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BAKRACOUTA. billiard-rooms, and other comforts, in a great measure necessary in a country where the winter is long and severe and social intercourse very limited. The upper part of the house contained a suite of bed-rooms ; the windows being double-framed and glazed in the inter- spaces. A brick was placed with some salt piled upon it : I suppose, for the pirrpose of absorbing moisture and keeping the glass clear ; papers and periodicals in the Russian language were strewed in various rooms : I observed in one of the storehouses a shwan pan, or instrument used by the Chinese for calculating. The Government storehouses were filled with navy stores, oils, paints, ropes, and some packages of furs ready for transport to St. Petersburgh. A small river steamer, nearly ready for launching, and filled with bales of paper and canvas, lay on the shingled beach above the harbour; this was blown up, being Government property, and most likely destined for the river Amoor. Another vessel on the stocks, far advanced towards completion, was spared ; Captain Frederick having learned that it was the private property of the Superintendant of Ayan. I may here remark, that the contents of the store- houses and of the private houses were respected by the squadron ; though, on the evening after our departure, the rights of hospitality were grossly outraged by the crews of some whalers which entered the port, and who pillaged the stores. This fact was known to the inhabitants on their return to their homes. Beyond the town, a grove of firs, larch, and birch. NATURAL PRODUCTS. 131 clothed the sides of the valley, leading to the sea on the east : here the modest and beautiful violet sought the shade, nearer the sunlight the hare-bell put forth its delicate blue flower, and the yellow ranunculus, azaleas, and other indigenous flowers decorated the sides of the valley and the borders of the streams. Fishing parties tried in vain to get some fish ; but Avhether it was too late in the season, or that the streams were not sufficiently large to induce the salmon to visit the port, we could not at the time determine. During our stay the weather was fine and temperate ; with the exception of the two last days, when we expe- rienced much rain, with squalls ; the wind was north- easterly, and the temperature varied between 48° and 60° Fahrt. The barometer ranged between 29"40 and 29*80 inches ; sea-water 54° F. Here also we heard the cuckoo. The sun-rises were strikingly beautiful, and characteristic of the country ; the rays lighting up the vallies, called forth the plumed songsters into active life, and the groves resounded with their cheerful matins ; while the cool morning breezes refreshed mind and body. I saw but one of the natives, and he, in his anxiety to make himself invisible, gave me but a slight oppor- tunity of inspecting his features or peculiarities. He was low in stature, with broad flat face, and long black hair, which streamed on the air as he ran. He was dressed in deer skin, and I concluded that he was of the Tungouse tribe which dwell in this part of Siberia, from the banks of the Amoor to that of the Ocheta, and on K 2 132 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. the banks of the Lena. Those livmg in the deserts are occupied in tending cattle, and lead a nomadic life. Those on the borders of the rivers and forests live by hunting and fishing, and are a peaceful race ; if treated according to the wishes of the Russian government they are not subject to any pressing exactions. They pay tribute in skins, and are closely allied to the Yakoutes, a Mongul tribe inhabiting the province of Yakutsk. On Sunday the 1 5th of July we sailed from Ayan in com- pany with the Pique ; the Am/pliitrite remaining behind for a few hours, ere she sailed to rejoin the Pacific en route to Sitka. On the 17th a dense fog came on, and we lost sight of the Pique. The wind fell light off Cape Marie, and we found ourselves suddenly in the midst of a heavy sea, with a strong current drifting the ship towards the shore, distant about a mile ; the waves were abrupt and chopping, and their presence most unaccount- able ; the atmosphere being perfectly calm, and this disturbance of the sea local. The United States frigate Macedonian experienced a similar occurrence some time in December, 1853, in latitude 19-42 N. and long. 120-35 East. Tide Rips are very common in the vicinity of large islands, such as Formosa, Lantao in the Chinese seas, Seghalien, and the Japanese islands in the North Pacific. The causes of these tidal irregulari- ties are not easily explained. In the instance just alluded to, the ebb tide from the North bay and Gulf of Amoor meeting with the flood, may in a measure account for the phenomenon. A sailing ship in our TIDAL RIPS AND TOPS. 133 position, had this state of affairs lasted an hour, would have drifted on shore ; the current setting at the rate of four knots an hour : the mercury in the barometer stood at 29 60 inches. For some days previously the weather had been unset- tled and gloomy, with occasional thunder and lightning ; the inhabitants of the deep, as whales and seals, were restless ; the former in great numbers sailing to the North-west ; the latter keeping company with the ship. The shore was distinctly visible, the fog extending as a dense bank from the ship seaward — a peculiarity I have frequently observed when sailing along the Coast of Tartary : there was a clear passage of three miles in breadth between the shore and the fog bank. A favourable breeze came on ere our steam was up ; so we passed Cape Elizabeth, and, sailing southward, the fog continuing, were not a little surprised to see around us four ships of war ; they were painted black from stem to stern, and as they took no notice of private signals, we did not know whether to look upon them as friends or enemies. One against four would not do much in the way of reaping honour or glory ; however, the stout Barracouta was not inclined to pass without giving a metallic salute on either side, or to lower her colours without knowing the reason why. The sound of " hands to quarters " resounded through the ship, and quickly each man was at his post ; the Captain and ]\Iaster were on the bridge ; and the guns were cast loose. The movements were seen from the squadron, and ere the la-t VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. guns were loaded, Commodore Elliot's pendant was flying at the main of H.M.S. Syhille, with blue ensign at the mizen peak : his squadron consisted of H.M.S. Si/biUe,4iQ; H.T.M.S. Condantine, 50; H.M.S. Spartan, 26; H.M. screw steamer Hornet, 17. The Barracouta altered course and joined the squadron bound for the Gulf of Amoor. As we had already learned that Commodore Elliot had visited Castries Bay and exchanged shots with the Russians, we were most anxious to learn the true version of the story ; which I believe is as follows : Commodore the Honble C. J. G. B. Elliott in the Syhille, and with H.M.S. Hornet and Bittern, sailed up the Gulf of Tartary, and arriving off Castries Bay, discovered the Russian squadron at anchor, consisting of the^^/ror«, 40 ; Divina, (?) ; Oltanitza, 25; Irtusk, 20 ; Carlovignia, 2nd armed transport, and Vostock despatch steamer. These ships were anchored in most advantageous positions. The Hornet, having steam power and a light draught of water, went in to try the range, but getting on a rock, her shot did not reach any of the ships. The Russians returned the fire, their shot falling short. The navigation of this Gulf being perfectly unknown to the British, it was not to be sup- posed that the Commodore would risk the frigate in unknown waters before a superior force ; for had she met with any such accident as getting on a rock it would not have been an easy matter to get her off again. The wind was badly suited for showing off the powers of RUSSIAN SQUADRON IN CASTRIES BAY. 135 the little brig Bittern ; which, under the command of the gallant Vansittart, was fresh from her piratical encoun- ters, in w^hich she gained an honourable name ever to be remembered in the history of Chinese adventures. We sailed down the Gulf of Amoor, and anchored within five miles of Obman's Bay on the 23rd July, the anchorage very shallow. The bay, circular in shape, and very shallow, is obstructed at its entrance by a bar which effectually prevents a vessel of any size from entering ; the greatest depth is ten fathoms, and over the bar, during high water, two fathoms. Many large sand banks are in the vicinity ; and the country around is low and sandy. On the right of the bay there is a small village, peopled by a race called Ghilacks, which dwell on the northern part of Seghalien, and on the south of Amoor, along the Coast of Tartary. Some of the men came alongside, in canoes made from the trunks of trees hollowed out ; they were mostly dressed in bear-skins ; but one or two wore coats and wide trowsers made of fish-skins. They eagerly bartered their furs and fish for knives, tobacco, or buttons. Their huts are very wide. They worship the bear, which is kept in a cage near the village : but I shall have occasion to speak of them further, when alluding to the races peopling the Coast of Tartary. CHAPTER XIII. H.M.S. Hornet — H.I.M.S. Constantine — Destruction of the Okhotsk — Sarratt ■ — Capture of the Greta, ivith crew of wrecked Z)ifl?!a— Lieutenant Pouschkin — Description of wreck at Simoda — Seghalien — Isle d' Langli — Eussian prisoners. On tlie 25th H.M.S. IIor?ieUTid H.I.M.S. Consfantuie sailed for the Shautar Isles, and the Sparfa/i went in chase of a strange sail. In the afternoon we got up steam in the Barracouta to chase a brig which was endeavoming to reach the river Amoor. We steamed in a south- easterly direction, the water being very shallow as we proceeded. We could not get within thi'ee miles of the brig, and retm-ned to oiu* anchorage. The Spartan also returned, having overtaken a whaler bound for Ayan. Like aU the rest of the whalers we met in the Ohkotsk, she was laden Mith strange varus concerning the movements of the Russians : a captain of one of these sliipS; addressing Captain Stirling, said, "Well, sir, I trust you don't believe all ice say ; if you do, su', you have strong digestion, I do say." At davbreak on the mornins; of the 27th, two boats from the Syhille and one from the Spartan, joined two boats of the Barracouta, under command of Lieutenant DESTEUCTIOX OF THE OHKOTSK. 137 Robert Gibson, and were towed by the Barracouta to- Avards the brig, which was making strong efforts to get away. The steamer got on shore, but was soon again in deep water ; a long shoal lay between us and the brig, and we were compelled to steer towards Cape Romberg, and anchor in four-and-a-half fathoms : the soundings a cable length a head were two fathoms. The brig had gone on shore near Cape Golovatchoff; though the proper channel to the Amoor runs along that side, gradually changing its course from the Cape in a south-westerly direction. The Russians, tnie to theii* custom, seeing there was no chance of escape, attempted to set fire to the brig, and took to their boats, with the intention of reaching the Amoor. A large boat of ours pulled towards the brig, whilst four smaller ones went in chase of four Russian boats which were making strong efforts to escape ; they made good their distance for a long time, the chase became quite exciting. Upon leaving the ship, our boats made towai'ds a Cape and village three miles distant ; we could see many people on the house tops of the \illage watching the race. The water gra- dually shoaled as we reached Cape Vinsoki, when the boats got on shore on a sandy spit which runs out from the Cape. A thick drizzling rain came on ; we spent some time in o-ettina; the boats off, and then tried another channel \\\\\\ like success, going on for a short distance, and then running aground ; when the crew jumped overboard and dragged the boats across the shoal into deep water. 138 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. Meanwhile, our Russian friends were far a-head, well knowing tlie channel, which we in vain endeavoured to reach. Our boats now took separate courses, a man in the bow of each sounding as we went ; at last, after some strenuous efforts, we succeeded in getting in a channel tAvo fathoms in depth at four o'clock, and away went the boats ; the evening grew very fine, the broad- bladed oars from the Russian boats as they rose from the water glistened in the sunshine, and the prominent headlands stood out bold and well defined. In an hour we came up with one of the largest boats, having nine Finlanders on board. The SyUlles cutter was first up, and to her is due the honour of the first capture. The foremost Russian boat was now under sail, far from danger, and nearing the mouth of the river ; another was rounding a shoal, and near in, but a-head, was Sarratt of the Sjjartan endeavouring to get his boat over the shoal by using the oars as rollers, but in vain : he applied to Gibson for assistance from our boat, but as we also were aground we required all the efforts of our crew to get her into deep water. Nothing daunted by difficulties, the energetic Irishman jumped over- board, and headed his men as he ran along the course of the spit; when they got within musket-shot of the chase they fired a volley over the boat, and the Russians, tired enough, threw up their oars and surrendered. We now returned towards our anchorage, and having a fair wind, made sail. The crew were rather fatigued, not having had any refreshment since morning. Though COUNTRY NEAR THE AMOOR. 139 the boats on both sides were armed, no shots were exchanged ; but a feAV shots were fired from our boats over the heads of the Russians. AVhen nearing the Barracouta we met Captain StirUng's boat in search of us, with food and brandy, to which we did ample justice. We reached the ship by 10 p.m. captors and captured, weary enough. The brig proved to be the Ohkotsk 6 -guns, 250 tons, belonging to the Russian government ; she was from Ay an, bound for the Anioor with stores, and was twelve days in shallow water, trying to get into the river. A lieutenant from the frigate Diana acted as a pilot, but not very successfully ; her crew, men and officers, numbered thirty-five. She had been engaged in the fur trade, and left Riga in 1852. The country towards the Amoor is very pretty, and there is a good deal of wood on the sides of the hills. Capes jut out, and between them bays, broad, but deceptive, owing to shifting shoals. There are huts and villages at intervals, on both sides of the gulf; during the winter, the passage is frozen over. The races on both sides near the Amoor appear to me to be similar in every respect. On the 29tli July, having sent the prisoners on board of the Byhille, we sailed for Hakodadi, in the island of Yezo. On the morning of the 1st of August, when in lat. 52° N. and long. 145° E. we sighted a strange sail steering in a north-west direction ; on seeing us she altered her course and bore away before the wind. As there were no whale-boats visible, and she was evidently anxious to get away, we steamed towards her and fired a 140 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. gun to bring her too. She hoisted American colours, but paid no attention to the signal, until a second gun was fii-ed and a shot whizzed before her bows ; she then lowered the flag and shortened sail. Lieutenant R. Gibson boarded her and found that she was the brig Greta, of Bremen, Free State. Captain Thaulow, with 276 officers and men of the Russian frigate Diana, bound for Ayan, and which was wrecked at Simoda, had lately left Simoda, and on her passage saw H.M.S. Winchester; but gave her a wide berth. Two of the Russian officers, Lieut. Alexander Moussin Pouschkin, and Lieut. Baron Nicholas Schelling, came on board the Barracouta with Mr. Gibson, and made strong remonstrances against the capture of shipwrecked men. It would have been rather hard certainly, but that these shipwrecked men would have reinforced the strength of the Russians, either in the ships of the squadron or at Fort Nicolaski on the Amoor. There was no alternative but take the brig in tow, and sail to meet the Commander at Ayan, where we arrived on the 3rd of August, and found the Syhllle and Spartan at anchor. During our short absence the country had quite changed its appearance : now in the midst of its short summer the hills and valleys were free of snow; the trees covered with rich foliage, and every bright spot clothed with indigenous flowers. Some of the inhabitants had returned to their homes, and found in many instances that their goods had been removed : I trust, however, that this crime had not been laid to our charge. CAPTURE OF THE GRETA. 141 The surgeon, priest, and the sick belonging to the Greta, were permitted to go on shore ; the rest of the prisoners were distributed amongst the three ships. Two officers, Lieuts. Pouschkin and Schelhng, with Councillor Gosgo- vitch, a Japanese, and 105 men, were sent on board of the Barracouta ; two officers and forty men on board Spartan ; the remaining seven officers and men on board the Si/bille. Lieutenant R. Gibson, Mr. Tully, and a prize creAv took charge of the Greta and sailed for Hong Kong on the 4th of August ; the same evening the Barracouta again sailed for liakodadi. The frigate Diana, 5.2-guns, was lost at Simoda in December, '54 ; being much damaged by an earthquake, and subsequently going down, while being towed to a place of security. I extract from the transactions of Chinese Branch of Asiatic Society the following account of the occurrence : — '' December 2'ird. — At 9 a.m., 1854, the barometer 39'27, Reaumur, thermometer 7°, a gentle breeze from W.S.W. 11 ? nothing remarkable in the atmosphere. A quarter of an horn- after the foregoing observations, the (three ?) shocks of an earthquake WTre experienced, lasting for two or three minutes. The ship was much agitated, as was also a Prench whaler seven miles from the coast of Nephon. At 10 o'clock, or three quarters of an hour after the shock, a wave entered the bay, wrecked the native craft, and spent its force in sub- merging the town of Simoda. Pive minutes after, the flood subsided, when the waters presented the appear- 14:^ VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BAERACOUTA. ance of being in a state of ebullition, bubbling up as if a thousand springs were in motion. The wave then returned with tremendous velocity, completing the destruction of the junks and of the town. At thirteen minutes after ten, another wave entered with still greater velocity. A cloud of vapour was observed at the same time over the ruins, while the air was impregnated with a sulphurous odour ; and it was doubtless the emission of this gas from the bottom of the bay which caused the bubbling. The whirlpool, occasioned partly, it may be, by waters engulfed in chasms below, and partly by their sudden rise in a narrow bay, caused the frigate to revolve forty-three times in thirty-two minutes ! causing a dizzy sensation among all on board. Besides this rotatory motion the vessel drifted from side to side, now crushing rudder and keel against rocks, and forced with her three anchors into deep if not unfathomable abysses. After half-an-hour's interval, the rising and falling of the waters became more violent than before. At 3 p.m. their force gradually subsided; the barometer being 29 8 7, the thermometer 10'30 N., with a fresh breeze from the west, which at night shifted south-west. The gallant ship suffered so much in the cataclysm that she went down in a subse- quent gale, &c." The latter part of the statement relating to the gale is not strictly correct, as the ship was so much damaged by the earthquake, as to be in a sinking state, till she went down when being towed : the EFFECTS OF AX EARTHQUAKE. 143 Russian officers did not allude to any gale taking place. Much valuable property, personal and govern- ment, was lost ; amongst which was a fine collection of objects of Natural History, belonging to Mr. Gosgovitch, and a photographic apparatus : the guns were saved, and landed. During the destruction of Japanese houses and junks, the crew of the Diana saved very many lives. A small schooner, the Caroline Le Foote, from San Francisco, arrived in March at Smirda, with stores and portable storehouses, and some speculators to settle in Japan. The Russians engaged her to take the captain and part of the crew to Petropolovski ; w^liich she did, via Hakodadi and the sea of Ohkotsk. On the departure of the captain of the Diana, Lieut. Pouschkin set about building a small yacht, which w^as named the Heda ; quickly built, launched and rigged, she sailed for Petropolovski with Admiral Poutatine and eighty men on board, and reached the latter place in safety, after some narrow escapes -. at one time being wdthin a quarter of a mile of the Syhille. The weather was unpleasantly cold and foggy w^ith south-easterly wind, as we sailed along the coast of Seghalien. On the 9th August we had much rain, followed by a strong easterly breeze on the 10th; then thick fogs till the 13th; when we got up steam and directed our course to the Straits of La Perouse, between the southern extremity of Seghalien and northern extremity of Yezo. We passed Aniva Bay, which is a deep indentation in the southern extremity of Seghalien, 144 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BAERACOUTA. between Capes Sorotoko on the east and Notoro, or Crillon, on the west. On the 14th Ave cleared the Straits of La Perouse, meeting with a sonth-west wind and a strong current setting in a north-easterly direction through the straits. The highest temperature experienced by us from the first of the month, was 56° Tahr ; with one exception, when it rose suddenly for an hour or so. Now with the south- west wind the mercury rose to 70° Fahr. ; a most depress- ing transition. The island of Yezo came in view, bold and rocky ; and we gradually lost sight of the hills and green valleys of Seghalien. The island of Seghalin, Seghalien, or Tarakai, lies between lat. 54° 24' N., and 45° 54' 2" N., and between the 141° 40' and 144° 46' of east longitude. It is about 600 miles in length, the breadth varying very much ; in some places the distance from shore to shore is not greater than 20 miles : near Cape Patience it is about one hundred across, the northern and southern extremities are crescentic prominent capes jutting out from deep bays. Before the late survey, Seghalien was considered by many navigators to be a peninsula, connected with the mainland below the Amoor River. The country is hilly, wooded, and fertile ; a range of hills runs from Cape Sorotoko, or Aniva, in a northerly direction. Coal is found in many parts of the island, especially about Jonquiere Bay, where it crops out. Many streams from the highlands fall into the Sea of Ohkotsk on the east, and the Gulf of Tartary on the west ; and two large rivers THE ISLAND OF SEGHALIEN". 145 empty themselves into Aniva Bay. Vast numbers of salmon frequent the mouths of these rivers ; and a Japanese fishing establishment belonging to the govern- ment, suppHes many of the Japanese ports Avith well cured salmon. Of the northern part, two-thirds belong to Pvussia, and it is peopled by Ghilacks, and not, as supposed, by Ainos : the latter race, the Aborigines of Yezo, occupy the southern third of the island, which is in possession of the Japanese. The Ainos are of short stature, with broad faces of jNIongol type ; they live in small huts, and exist on fish and the india-enous fruits and roots of the country : they closely resemble the Kurile Islanders. They are badly treated by the Japanese, who have driven them from their homes in Yezo, to seek peace on the rock-bound shores away from Japanese settlements. They would gladly exchange their rulers for the kinder administration of government which the Russians usually exercise towards conquered races. On the loth, with a gentle northerly wind sufficient to drive the good ship along about three knots an hour, we sailed south and a httle easterly, the coast of Yezo in view. Its undulating hills covered with trees, broad parks and valleys of bright green, were refreshing to the eyes of the mariner. The shore retired gradually, save in some places where precipitous rocks stood boldly forward. At noon we passed the island of Langle, in latitude 45° 32' N., longitude 140° 55' E. ; a reef, covered at high water, runs north and north-east from 14G VOYAGE OP H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. it, a mile in length. The island is large, and remarkably pretty from the variety of its scenery : hills with sum- mits high and barren, and lower down a belt of forest trees ; vales with low shrubs, broad plains and inlets, with an outline of coast on the west and south- west bold and prominent. North of the island is a bay or harbour in shape of a horse shoe, the east limb formed of a woody hill, small islands, and the reef just mentioned -. the bay is open to the north-east. I may here allude to our prisoners, — officers and men : the latter soon became reconciled to their new home ; the fore and after troop decks were given up for their accommodation. Orderly, well conducted, and willing at all times to assist the watch on deck in navigating the ship, they soon gained the goodwill of the ship's company ; who, by their kindnesses, taught them to forget for the time that they were prisoners, and asked permission from Captain Stirling to present each prisoner with a pound of tobacco, and a pound and a-half of soap : for some time past they had been without the fragrant CREW OF THE DIANA. 147 weed, and now it was a rich treat. The crew of the Diana consisted of Poles, Russians, Finlanders, and Cossacks ; and those on board of ns were a like mixture of races. During divine service on board, they sat uncovered at their messes, and read their own Testaments or books of prayer. The greater part, though below a fair average height, Avere stout, healthy, and muscular. Some suffered from pectoral complaints, and incipient symptoms of scurvy ; the latter were speedily removed under the use of lime juice, with generous diet. With regard to the officers — from the moment they came on board till they left us at Nagasaki, they were ever courteous and gentleman-like ; at the same time, true to their faith as Russian subjects, they believed strongly in the justice of the Russian cause : Russia, they said, never sought the present war, which was forced upon her by the intolerant interference of England and France ! Each officer had a cabin appropriated to his use. I gave up mine to the clever naturalist and linguist, Mr. Gos- govitch. He had resided for some years at the court of Pekin ; was a good Chinese scholar, and could converse in Japanese, French, English, and many dialects of the Rus- sian language : he also understood Sanscrit, Hebrew, and other ancient languages. He was a diligent student, and spent a great part of the day in poring over English works, in order to lose no opportunity of improvement in the English language ; and was full of information on various topics, which he imparted to others with much ease. Lieutenant Pouschkin, for whom I entertain a deep L 2 lis VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. respect and friendship, was my constant companion durino- liis stay on board tlie Barracoiita. Though he was perfectly acquainted with the continental languages, he did not understand a word of English. My knowledge of French was very limited ; and I frequently fancied that I saw a smile play above his deep moustache, as I endea- voured to make myself intelligible in language faulty, with pronunciation barbarous. He belonged to the Black Sea fleet, which he Avas anxious to rejoin as soon as possible ; and Avas still more anxious to learn something of the fate of his brothers at Sevastopol. Lieutenant Schelling, also a linguist, spoke English fluently, and was a most intelh- gent feUoAV; well versed in the histories of various nations, conversant with English politics, and familiar with the names of leading statesmen : he was a warm admirer of Wellington and Peel. He frequently spoke of the fatherly kindness of the Czar ; whom he looked upon as the most perfect and exalted being in the universe. He said that Nicholas never entertained the idea of taking possession of Constantinople or any other part of the Turkish dominions ; but, being head of the Greek Church, he insisted on the professors of that faith having perfect religious freedom in every place where the Greek cross is planted. Certainly there are few who could exceed Lieutenant Schelling in warm devotion to his Sovereign, and in enthusiastic admiration of Russia and her institutions. On the evening of the 16th we passed Cape Gorta- choff", a prominent headland on the southern side of the THE BAY OF STllOZAKUY. M9 Bay of Strozanov ; the temperature growing -wanner daily. After our long cruise in cold climates, we felt the change very much, and gladly changed our woollen garments for some more suitable attire. We a])peared to have passed the region of fogs, •which were so trouble- some in the Sea of Ohkotsk and North Pacific ; though they did not act injuriously on the health of the crew : rmlike the fogs experienced in England, and seas adjacent, which so seriously afflict persons with delicate throat and lungs. CHAPTER XIV. Straits of Sangar — City of Matsmai — Arrival at Hakodadi— H.M.S. Pique and Saracen — Arrival at Nagasaki — Japanese regulations — Errors in old chart — Kurile islands— Japanese progress in the English language — Little Britain improved — Our summer residences and our recreations — Arrival of Encounter with mails — The squadron — Prisoners leave Barra- couta — Ships sail for Castries Bay — Barracoida sails for Shanghai. Early on the morning of tlie 17tli, we put on steam, in order to reach Hakodadi if possible by sunset. Passing Kubitisima, we soon reached Kosima and Osima, two islands ; the name, meaning in the Japanese tongue, great and small islands. They were completely covered with trees : pines and cedars. Soon afterwards we entered the Straits of Sangar, and kept close to the southern coast of Yezo. The day was very hot, 74° Pahr. in the shade, Avith not a breath of wind ; the water without a ripple ; a bright sun and cloudless sky above and around, and as lovely a country as I have ever seen, presented to our view : it was very varied in appearance, from the low green hillocks to the high mountain or abrupt rock. The verdant aspect of the country first excites the admiration of an observer : rich green plains gradually rising to slojmig hills and high mountains ; and thick belts of trees, beech, birch, cedars and firs, assuming their native habits CITY OF MATSMAI. 151 of altitude. There were deep valleys for the most part open towards the Straits, their sides clothed with trees and shrubs of rich foliage ; the smilax and bindweed creeping over rocks, and hanging in festoons over the clear water. Cascades rolled down the valleys, leaping from rock to rock in white foam, then flowing onward in a still stream till they reach their last fall ; from which, in foam and spray, they reach the sea, and in that element are lost for ever. Many Japanese boats Avere scattered over the Straits, their primitive square sails endeavouring in vain to get a helping breeze, as the crews listlessly propelled them by their heavy oars. Villages and hamlets, plain, pri- mitive, and rude in construction, studded the coast ; the scenery still varying as we approached the city of Matsmai, (or according to the modern method of spelling, Matzumae) the northern extremity of Niphon, clearly visible in the distance. The city of Matsmai is very large, and situated on the side of a hill, which gradually rises above it to the height of seven hundred feet. Rugged ledges of rock, taking the bend of the coast, extend towards the shore in parallel lines. The houses are large, whitewashed, and contrast prettily with the dark green trees which shoot up in every open space. The temples are handsome, with projecting eaves and quaint roofs rising at each extremity into upright points. The dwelling of the Governor, who is a prince, is situated at a little distance right of the town ; it is a large and handsome structure, snow -white, built in the Chinese style, but having turrets on either 152 VOYAGE OP H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. end ; it is surrounded by gardens, full of evergreens, and sheltered in the rear by large trees : here also are the residences of the officials attending on the Prince. The whole is enclosed by a low Avhite parapet with many embrasures, through which peeped some guns. Hundreds of junks were at anchor before the city. The anchorage is unsafe, being so much exposed to the south wind. Near the city there are broad green plains, on which we saw droyes of cattle and horses. Every mile of country we passed, stimulated our anxiety to see some- thing of this almost unknown region. Night closed upon us as we steamed towards Hakodadi ; and, the headlands becoming invisible, we passed it, and anchored in a bay some few miles further on. Early next morning, 18th August, we weighed anchor, and soon reached the Bay of Hakodadi ; where we found H.M.S. Pique, and the Erench frigate Sybille at anchor, but preparing for a cruise to the Kurile Islands, to take possession of the island Ourope, belonging to the Russo- American Eur Company. Sir James Stirling and Admiral Guerin of the Erench Imperial Navy, had sailed a few days previous to our arrival for the coast of Tartary. We remained here but for a few hours to procure vegetables, and sailed for Nagasaki; so that there was no time for more than admmng the beautiful bay, the well sheltered town and distant conical peak : the temperature was 80 in the shade. AVith a fair breeze we left the Bay, and retraced our course ; clearing the Straits of Sangar, we altered our SADA, OR SILVEK ISLAND. 153 course to south and westward. The tirst island of any importance on our voyage southward was the bokl and rocky island of Sada, or Silver Island. It is celebrated for its silver mines, which are at present unworked. A range of mountains runs from the north, in a south-westerly direction for nine miles ; two rocks are before its northern extremity, one a sharp cone, the apex being 700 feet above the level of the sea : it is inhabited by Japanese fishermen. The abrupt rocks on the north (according to the survey of Mr. Richards, commanding H.M.S. Saracen), rise to the height of 3800 feet, the south- west extremity to 4500 feet, above the level of the sea. On the 26th we passed the Gotto Islands, most of them very high and barren, rocky, with ruins of red iron-stone. A low and fertile island we took to be the Isle of Pirando, where at one time were the English and Dutch factories. The land was culti- vated in fields, apparently well cropped with corn and sweet potatoes ; and small hamlets were scattered here and there. On the 27th, the mountainous country around Naga- saki came in view, and on the 28th of August we entered the Port ; being met as usual by a large number of Japanese guard-boats. We found the hired steamer Tartar at anchor. I recognised our former anchorage ; though some changes were perceptible in the harbour : such as the construction of new batteries, and the im- provement of old ones. We were compelled to experience the same restrictions as before the treaty was made. 154 VOYAGE OF ILM.S. BAREACOUTA. Some officials came on board with the port regulations, which ran as follows : " All vessels ought to anchor outside the Cavallo, and wait the advice of Government. " Salutes shall not be fired. " It is not permitted to go on shore, though there be but islets. " It is forbidden to take surveys of the coast. " No boats are allowed to go to and fro. "When it is desired to speak, it shall be communi- cated through the guard-officer's boat. " Boats passing by shall not be approached or accosted except with permission of the authorities. " No object ought to be off'ered ; neither accepted or bought, without consent of the authorities. " The foregoing articles are the laws of this port ; consequently the commander and high officers ought to comprehend this, and bring it to the knowledge of the ships' crews, in order that this law shall be attended to. (Signed) " The Governoii of Nagasaki. "11 year oi Ansi.'' Captain Stirling applied for provisions : meat and vegetables. We thought it rather hard that the Dutch should be allowed to have three ships at anchor in the inner harbour, whilst we were separated from them by an hdiospituble row of junks, and around the ship JAPANESE REGULATIONS. 155 was placed a line of guard-boats. The Russians Averc quite surprised to find that we permitted such acts. When the Diana visited the port, the Captain ordered the guard-boats to be at once removed, else he should be compelled to remove them by force : such firmness was duly respected and appreciated by the Japanese authorities. Around our Little Britain also was placed a line of guard-boats, in order that if we landed on the isle, our movements could be placed under strict mnelllance. The surveying ship Saracen arrived from a long cruise amongst the Japanese islands, having made some very accurate surveys, which are noAv published under the authority of the Admiralty. A day or two after the arrival of the Saracen, Captain Stirling received a strange epistle, of which the following is a copy : — " By the third schip {Saracen) a cow is required. In our country cattle is used for agriculture or trans- portation of goods. At Nangasaki cattle is commanded, and to be had only from distant places, therefore it cannot be reckoned as victuals. An interpreter has told you that no cattle of 100 catties is to be had here, but will of 200 catties." " The pig is no common article of food among the Japanese. It is bred by the compradors, who are appointed for the Dutchmen, and for the Chinese who have their residences at Nangasaki. However, they are not in great number; therefore, pigs are bred in 156 VOYAGE OF II. M.S. BARRACOUTA. small imniber. Since the lOtli of last iiioiitli, some pigs were sent oft' to your schips, therefore the number is diminished. " On this account, we will try our best to look for pigs in the villages. It is, however, impossible to send them in every day. Therefore, the necessary arrange- ments are required alternately every third or fourth day by every schip. Fowls and ducks are likewise no common article of food among the Japanese ; therefore, we shall, perhaps, not comply with your demand in case they are not to be had. It is desired that the required articles be furnished daily, or every other day. " This occasions to us embarrassment ; therefore it would be better to do the requisition one day sooner, because it is impossible to procure on the next day the required articles, that are to be had only from distant places. If something is asked for by the different members of the crew, it gives way to confusion ; there- fore, the commander of every schip please to send a general list of the articles wanted by the officers or others, and such contained in a little book, that ought to be handed over the very moment the articles are delivered by the Japanese ; and with which every article ought to be confronted, whilst the Commander please to ascertain by these means that all is duly received. All that is required ought to be ordered the day before at ten o'clock, otherwise it cannot be procured on the next day. " Accordingly, a signal-flag ought to be hoisted to let know that something is required; after which, the ERRORS IN OJ.D CHARTS. 157 Japanese will go immediately to the schip to receive the note of provisions. " The articles, however, which are not to be had will not 1)8 found among the supplies. Mr. Frederick H. Stirling, Esq., Commander of H.B.J\I. Barracouta, is hereby required to communicate the contents of the annexed papers to the Commanders of other schips." A copy of this production was handed to the Com- mander of the Saracen, who appeared to be much amused. The latter, in surveying the coast and isles of Japan had many difficulties to contend with, owing to the restrictions sometimes enforced by the authorities on his attempting to land to take observations. The old charts were perfectly useless : in one supplied to the ship, the coast line of Tartary was misplaced ; the Gotto Islands also ; and as for the Kurile Islands, their names have been undergoing change continually since the days of Benyouski, and even before his visit, — one time, Russian ; next, native ; then Dutch, Japanese, and English, so that no two accounts agree as to their name or position on the earth's surface ; their number varying from eighteen to twenty-eight, according to different navigators : as if they were occasionally swallowed by the earth in some earthquake, and thrown up again in another latitude. Take, for instance, the accounts of Benyouski : where he obtains his latitudes it has puzzled me to determine ; he places them in a line between 45° N. and 51" 30' N. latitudes, and in a direction 158 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. north-easterly. The truth is, that the most southern pomt of Kuma-sh'i is in Latitude 43» 40' N. The name Kurile is derived from a lake in the south of Kams- cliatka, from the vicinity of which most likely the aborigines emigrated to the Kurile Islands. The 14th island, L'Agneau, is in 48° 27' N. The in- habitants of this isle are provided with the manufactures and produce of Japan; and in 1760 they travelled to Kamschatka, There is no land corresponding with the above latitude in the modern charts. The same remark is applicable to the Pole's account of Usigak, in lat. 47° 16' N. : he describes it as a well-wooded island, having gold mines. The 20th island, Marika, in lat. 56° 40' N., is within 18° of being at the south point of Simmsir ; and probably this is the island, it being thirteen leagues long from north to south, and peopled by bearded Kuriles, " who dress as Chinese, and live on rice and beef." The 22nd island he places in latitude 45° N. Good Hope, thirty leagues in length. He means the isle of Yeteroop, or Staten Island. This, the first island in the chain, is, 1 believe, the most northern in the pos- session of the Japanese, and separated from the Russian Island of Ouroop, or Company's Land, by Vrie's Straits. As early as 1764, the natives sought to effect a treaty with the Russians in Kamschatka. Envoys arrived at Bolcheretsk in 1764, bringing some handsome presents of gold and other valuables in small bags of leather, and dresses covered over with feathers of JAPANESE PROGRESS IN ENGLISH LANGUAGE. 159 various birds. Instead of the Northern Kiirile Islands being late acquisitions of Russia, they have been in her possession for upwards of 200 years. We were surprised at the progress made by some of the Japanese in the acquisition of the English language during our absence ; and now, during their frequent visits on board, they evinced a great desire to improve still further. Every sentence was accurately pronounced; and, unlike the Chinese, they do not lengthen the ter- mination of words unnecessarily : a Chinaman would pro- nounce "talk," as if '' talkee ;' make, '' mahee ;' child, " chilo ; " and Avould find much difficulty in pronouncino- the letter R ; Russia would become Looslda. The treaty was still a dead letter. We had no per- mission to trade, or even land, unless on the small islet of Nazuma-Sima ; so that we were again debarred from gaining any information about the country or its resources. Our curiosity was daily excited by observing articles of skilful manufacture in the possession of the officials, who visited us : delicate workings in gold, silver and copper; bronze ornaments in their swords; highly finished copper inkstands ; paper of . curious texture made from some tree, and which is used for pocket-handkerchiefs as well as for writing upon ; dresses of a beautiful gauze-like texture, resembling a mixture of silk with alpaca ; and candles made from the berries of the tallow plant. On visiting our small island, we found that the Japanese had built for us two very pretty pleasure houses ; one on an eminence facing the harbour, the 160 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. other on the summit of the island, suiTounded by trees. They were constructed of wood, above a ledge of granite, two feet from the surface ; and externally faced on three sides with the bark of pine, neatly bound in horizontal lines with split bamboo. A platform projected about three feet from the front of each house, forming a small balcony ; some wooden pillars supported a broad eave formed of neat tiles which gradually slope from the roof : the latter was thatched with straw, mixed with young fir branches. The balcony was closed in front by a series of doors, which slide at pleasure into a small shed formed to receive them ; it was separated from the inner apartments by partitions, the lower parts of fine grained pine, the upper latticed and papered, with fine thin paper Avhich answers instead of glass, and is commonly used in this country : two apartments separated by folding doors were unfurnished, save by matting four inches thick which covered the floors. The ceilings Avere of fine fragrant cedar, and the sides of the rooms plastered, whitened with chinam (lime made from sea-shells), aud polished as smooth as marble ; wooden pillars projecting a little distance from the wall, supported the ceiling ; they were stained black, and contrast agreeably with the white surface. We were much pleased with these cool retreats, so ad- mirably adapted for r-eading, enjoying the fragrant weed, or an afternoon nap, for those who indidge in the latter luxury. The temperature is at the maximum about two o'clock in the afternoon, and sometimes there is a perfect stillness of the atmosphere. During the great heat. OUR SUMMER RESIDENCES. 161 animals sleep : it is said that even plants sleep at this time; and man, if at rest, feels the depressing influence of the atmosphere : his eyelids droop, and if reading, the book falls from his hand; languor steals over his frame, and soon he rests in the arms of Morpheus. On awaking refreshed, after repose on those soft mats, one is inclined to thank His Imperial Majesty for his very considerate kindness in supplying the same. Thick brushwood had been removed, walks made through and around the islet, and a well sunk, walled round, and supplied with wheel and bucket : the water unfortunately was so brackish as to be useless, even for w^ashing. The wild grape and fig w^re ripe ; the acacia, its pale green leaves and long pods drooping from their stalks, was encircled by creeping plants, convolvulus, and many other slender plants which seek support ; there were ferns of many varieties ; and the smilax Avith glossy green leaves trailed from rock to rock and along the sur- face. The root of the Japanese sarsaparilla is unlike the West Indian, being thicker and containing a large amount of starch: it is much used in Japan as an alterative. The cedar, cypress, and Scotch fir formed pleasant shades ; and camelhas and azaleas grew wherever a dry bank presented itself. Our amusements on the islet were very limited; mostly quoits, jumping, fishing, and swimming. The Russian officers enjoyed themselves as much as the circumstances of their position would permit : their zeal in the acquisi- tion of language is without parallel, and I might say 162 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. without trouble. Mr. Pouschkin informed me that the Russian language is so difficult to acquire, that every other appears quite simple in comparison with it. When they came on board at Ayan, I was much struck with the zeal of one of the junior officers, (Mr. Apollo Ouronsoff ), in the pursuit of knowledge under difficulties ; he had not been on board an hour before he produced a small card with the auxiliary verbs in Russian and English printed upon it, and asked me to assist him in the pro- nunciation of the words; a request to which I gladly acceded. We experienced much difficidty in procming provi- sions: vegetables were scarce; a few radishes, onions, and pumpkins, were daily sent on board, and some pork, soft, fat, and unwholesome ; though we were well aware that there were plenty of oxen on shore. The weather at this time was hot: up to 90°Fahr.; with heavy thunder showers, and much lightning in broad flashes. The ship was close and damp, and everything was becoming mildewed : we sighed for the sea, away from our prison- harbour ; and we hoped and wished that the next time we made our appearance in those waters would be to enforce the treaty. How little we imagined that our wishes were to be realised ! The Russians were surprised that we submitted to the incivilities of the authorities. When at Simoda, the Russian officers were informed that they must not think of landing ; yet they not only landed but lived on shore, walked where they liked, and esta- blished look-out houses on the summits of commanding AREIYAL OF "ENCOUNTER" WITH MAILS. 1G3 hills ; they had a treaty, and were determined to act upon it. Early on the 10th of September we heard the report of guns, first distant, then from hill to hill, from the sea- shore to the city, announcing to the government the approach of some strange sail ; which, in a few hours, proved to be H.M.S. Encounter, Captain O'Callaghan, from Jonas Island, Sea of Ohkotsk. She brought our mails, with news up to April 1st. We were in perfect ignorance of the progress of the war, or of any other Euro- pean news, until the arrival of this ship. On the lltb, H.INLS. Hornet arrived ; then came the Syhille, on the 20 til, from Ohkotsk; followed by H.M.S. Piciue from Hakodadi and the Island of Ouroop, which had been taken possession of by the allies, the flags being saluted by Pique and Erench Sj/hille. The settlement was found deserted ; the natives were badly off, and their strict sense of honesty w^ould not permit them to break into the Russian stores, in which there was plenty of fiom\ The captains of the ships distributed the flour to the islanders, and, having created one of them a chief, they sailed for Hakodadi. On the 28th, H.M.S. Winchester, NcmJcin, Sjmrtan, Stijcc, and H.I. M.S. Virginie, Admiral Guerin, arrived from the coast of Tartary. On the following day the Russian prisoners were sent on board the Nankin, for passage to Hong Kong. Whilst on board of the Barra- coufa, the officers had gained for themselves many friends, and I parted from them with a hope that on some future M 2 164 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. occasion our acquaintance might be renewed under more pleasant circumstances. They appeared disappointed that Sir James Stirling did not send them to Castries Bay, and release them on their promising not to bear arms against us during the war ; but of course once under command of a superior officer, they must obey his orders : Sir James had no other alternative than to send them to Hong Kong ; but the French Admiral had an equal voice in the arrangement. We sailed for Shanghai on the 1st of October, and arrived on the 3rd; making a very quick passage. Having taken in coals and provisions, we sailed for Castries Bay on the 8th, to join Commodore Elliott in blockading the Gulf of Tartary. On the 10th, weather fine and winds light, we sighted the island of Quelpart, a penal settle- ment of the Coreans. On the 11th we passed through the Corean Straits, having on the right the island of Mazusima, and on the left the Corean Peninsula. Some pretty hawks came on board, small, brown, with speckled breasts and thighs ; back dark brown, sides of head and ears black. On the 12tli we sighted the Island of Daguelet, a rough, rocky, and mountainous island, about seven miles long, apparently barren : our lat. at noon 36° 30' N. and long. 130° 22' E. The wind was variable from the N.N.E. with a tendency in the barometer to fall ; thick rain fell during the day, and towards evening the wind increased to a gale from the north, dead against us ; we endeavoured to steam against it, but in the attempt the funnels were so much damaged by the SHIPS SAIL FOR CASTRIES BAY. 1G5 gale that we were compelled to put back for Shanghai, where we arrived on the 21st of October. In the meantime, H.M.S. Syhille, Encounter and Hornet, sailed from Nagasaki on the 2nd of October for Castries Bay. On the 13th they were in latitude 49° north, and longitude 141 east ; the thermometer standing at 60° Fahr. : next morning the temperature was as low as 29° Fahr. On the morning of the 15th the Syhille anchored in Castries Bay, where the American ship Behring was discharging cargo for the Russians. In the afternoon, the ships' boats were sent on shore to fell timber ; when within 200 yards of the beach they were saluted by a volley of musketry, and some discharge of field pieces. The shot fell hot and heavy, ploughing up the water around the boats : rather too hot for their almost defenceless crews. Lieutenant Chisholm received a wound in the neck, a marine had his leg fractured, and three others were slightly wounded. The ships now opened fire on the ambuscades, and Commodore Elliott led his boats towards the places from w^hich the firing proceeded. There was a sudden cessation of firing on the part of the enemy ; who had been so well concealed by the trees and thick brushwood as to be invisible. On the following day, armed boats proceeded to examine the creeks opening to the bay ; when returning, they were fired upon ; but the fire was returned, and with good effect. The Captain of the Beliring informed the officers of the Syhille, that the Russians had established a line 166 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BAEIUCOUTA. of posts at every twenty miles' distance from Castries Bay to the river Amoor, and were able to meet any party who might land, with 1200 men. The Hornet and Encoimter were sent to cruise in different directions ; the former towards the Amoor in search of the passage into that river, the latter to the various inlets south of Castries Bay, in search of the missing ships. On the 23rd October, the Hornet reached the latitude 52° 19' north, and 141° 37' east longitude ; here she got aground, and remained so until the following night, when she was lightened of her guns and ballast. Captain Forsyth having satisfied himself of the existence of a passage to the Amoor from the south, though too late in the season to prose- cute the survey, rejoined the Encounter. He expe- rienced very rough weather ; snow storms, with much wind. A strong current of brackish water ran down the gulf from the north, at the rate of five knots an hour. The ship again reached Castries Bay on the 29th ; Aveather cold, the thermometer at 19" Fahr. The winter season had fairly set in, and the hoary monarch put a stop, at least during his reign, to further pursuits. The Syhille had started for Hakodadi, to meet H.M.S. Consicmtine, and the Encounter and Hornet sailed to join them. Thus closed the northern cruise for 1855, which was attended with many privations, dangers, and difficulties, but without honours or rewards. The crews felt keenly the want of opportunities to let Her Majesty and CLOSE OF THE NORTHERN CRUISE. 167 England know, that the same devotion and loyahy towards the flag reigned in their bosoms, as in that of their forefathers, who on the sea maintained the supre- macy of the Union Jack. CHAPTER XV. Shanghse, or Shanghai — Foreign settlement — Good feeling and hospitality of residents — Dollars — Eacecourse — Graves — Shipping — Exports and Im- ports — Cultivation of land — Beans, Cotton, Wheat — City of Shanghai — Temples and Tea-houses — Shops — Middle Temple — The Cangue — Traces of Imperialists. The Barracoiita, at anchor before the settlement of Shanghai, was nndergomg repairs during the greater part of October ; the funnels and some of her machinery being much damaged. Seldom at anchor since she was first commissioned in December 1852, the continual wear and tear, and the straining of the ship's timbers during many gales, w-ere sufficient reasons for her present state. She was soon made ready for sea ; the rigging set up afresh, decks caulked, and machinery in good order. We had a good hardy crew of 150 men, who were used to all climates ; the ice of Greenland, and the torrid climate of India. Ere we left Nagasaki, our new commander, Captain T. D. A. Eortescue, joined us ; Captain Stirling, the bearer of the ratified treaty to England, having held but temporary command. The weather at Shanghai was dry and cool ; prevalent winds north-westerly. There w^re many inducements to ramble through the country ; the people being friendly SHANGHAI. 1G9 and peaceable, unlike their southern countrymen, who required the sight of a revolver or rifle to make them civil ; and even then, they cannot refrain from mur- muring the opprobious epithet, Fanqms. Shanghai is in latitude 31° north, and longitude 121° 30'. It is situated on the northern bank of the Woo- sung river, fourteen miles from the mouth of the river, which opens into the Yang-tze-Kiang, below the town of Woo-sung. An important stream falls into the river, west of the foreign settlement of Shanghai ; this stream is navigable to the rich city of Suchau, famous for its silk, ivory- ware, lacquered ware, and various curiosities : it is the paradise of China, and said to contain two million of inhabitants. The foreign settlement of Shanghai, the most important in China, is composed of merchants from various parts of the world : here are English, French, Americans, Germans, Portuguese, Parsees, and Jews. The three first powers are repre- sented by Consuls in established Consulates, and they alone have territorial possession from the Chinese Emperor; the others are merely tenants. There are some handsome residences along the northern bank of the river ; and most of the houses in the settlement are detached, square, modern structures, elegant externally and internally. Every luxury that ships can bring from the far west is to be found in these most hospitable mansions. The respectable classes are so united^that they resemble one large family ; nothing but good feeling and warm friendship exists amongst them : it is 170 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BAEEACOUTA. delightful to observe, ou a New Year's day, which here is a day of enjoyment, numbers of gentlemen passing from house to house, to offer congratulations to the fair occupants on the commencement of a new year. A stranger is not very long in that unenviable position ; true hospitality and kindness is soon extended to him, and he becomes one of the happy family. These are my impressions after an absence of three years from that pleasant spot ; and as I write, I can recall to mind many incidents which make Shanghai and its inhabitants dear to me. There is a very good church in the centre of the town, Avith a fine organ, presented by one of the inha- bitants : near it stands the residence of the respected pastor, Rev. Mr. Hobson. There are many store-houses, or as they are called (jo downs, for the sale of every article necessary for man's use, or his vanity. In making purchases, a stranger at first is puzzled very much by the currency : everything is bought in dollars ; and the value of these varies according to the rate of exchange, or the particular description of dollar: the Carolus, struck in the reign of Carolus IV. is worth 100 cents. ; the Ferdinand, or Mexican dollar, being worth but 75 cents. Towards the higher part of the town are a few Chinese streets, running at right angles to one another ; they have well filled shops, the fronts of some of them handsomely decorated and carved : in some of the side streets are tea houses, baths, and opium shops. At a little distance from the town lies SHANGHAI — MERCHANT SHirPING. 171 the racecourse, about a mile and a-quarter in circum- ference, and the only carriage drive or place for recreation in the neighbourhood. This is not a very cheerful place, as the low road runs around an old Chinese burial ground, where many of the coffins lie exposed. It is intersected by drains ; but as there is not much fall towards the river, much stagnant water remains in the drains, the effluvia from which in hot weather are anything but pleasant. With a little trouble the drainage of the entire settlement could be improved, and many of the causes of intermittent fever and dysentery removed. Races are held here twice yearly, and afford much amusement to foreigners and natives : some of the horses are imported from England, or Australia, and the island of Timour belonging to the Dutch. The water here is very impure, and requires to be filtered in order to render it fit for use. In taking on board water from the river, we precipitated the earthy particles by small quantities of alum thrown into the tanks : in a day or so the water became perfectly clear and fit for use. The favourite beverage with most of the people that can afford to drink it, is India Pale Ale. Before the town the merchant shipping remain at anchor to take in cargo. There may be seen the long sharp Yankee clipper, with the eagle for a figure-head, her sides polished and black as jet, scarcely a seam visible, and rejoicing in some grand high-flying name such as The Win(jed Bacer, &c. Next in point of attraction is the Aberdeen clipper ; compact, with good breadth of 172 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BAERACOUTA. beam, and bow sufficiently sharp to divide the waves and make quick passages, and decks varnished, in order to keep her valuable cargo of tea perfectly dry. Like her rival the " Yankee," she is painted black, and equally neat and well rigged aloft : such is the Challenger. Then there is the old fashioned, but still useful class of ships, the " Indiaman," of great tonnage, broad beam, and blunt stem ; her sides chequered with imaginary ports : her stowage power is immense, and she makes fair honest voyages in the good old style of navigating, not emulating the speed of the Flyivr/ Cloud or the Sea Foam. Then comes the broad honest Dutchman, which will last for the next twenty years and look the same; and the country shipping : ships bought or built on the coast, trading in rice, cotton ; useful, but not at all fine looking, and with but little pretensions to cleanliness. The crews are either Malays or Lascars, with a sprinkling of Europeans. That gaudily painted junk of many colours, white, red, and yellow, with all those fantastic devices on her stern, and the large eyes in her bows, is a trader from Chin Chew ; beyond there is a long line of similar junks extending towards the city : they are waiting for a fair wind, and a convoy of mandarin junks ; for, being honest traders, they dread the pirates of the coast. There are also junks from Siam, and from various parts of the Yang-tze, built unlike those of any other part of China ; large, unpainted, shapeless vessels, their sterns rising broad and square, perpendicular to the water's surface, IMPORTS, EXPORTS, AND CULTIVATION. 173 without ornament. The sails are square, of matting ; cumbrous affairs, generally four in each junk. The crews at this season of the year resemble round bales of cotton, they are so thoroughly enveloped in that warm material : the head alone is visible, and their broad flat faces pro- truding from the envelope have a most comical effect. The imports of Shanghai are very numerous ; the principal being metals, cotton, clothes, cutlery, and opium : also woollens from Russia, via Kiachta, the border town separating the Chinese from the Russian dominions. There is extensive importation of rice from the southern provinces, and from India ; and various commodities from the Indian Archipelago, such as beche de mer, or trepang, birds' nests, sharks' fins ; fm-s from the northern provinces, musk and rhubarb, &c. The exports are tea and silk, raw and woven : the manu- factured silk reaches America ; the raw being exported to India and England. Various medicinal substances, aromatic seeds, musk pods, raw cotton, lacquered ware, china, cm'iosities, bamboo rattans, and matting, complete the list. The country around Shanghai is flat and uninteresting, being unrelieved by a hillock or rock. The soil is aUuvial and tenacious ; extensive cotton fields stretch away in every direction, being intersected by large drains communicating with the rivers, and subject to tidal influence. Little rice is cultivated about Shanghai, in comparison to other parts of China ; the soil being too stiff and cold. One feels a pleasure in walking through 174 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. I the country, where the people are kind and civil, and a fine hardy race. Beans are extensively cultivated in this neighbourhood ; they are crushed in mills, and the oil expressed from them, the refuse being used as manure, or mixed with cotton and other seeds in the manufacture of oil-cake for feeding sheep and cows. Small-grained wheat is also cultivated in this district. There are two varieties of cotton, yellow and white. It is a pretty plant, growing from one and a-half to two feet in height ; it is sown in May, and flowers in the beginning of August. The fruit is a trilocular capsule opening at the sides ; the seed being enveloped in a small ball of cotton which accurately fits into the cells. When collected, the fruit is exposed to the sun on mats, the husks are removed and the seeds separated in diff'erent manners by rollers. The method I have frequently seen used is by a species of scutching : the cotton is spread on a large mat or table, and lightly and rapidly struck with tense cords attached to bent bamboo. The seeds are collected in baskets ; and when deprived of the oil which they contain, they are made into cakes, and form nutritious food for cattle. Most of the peasant homes are supplied with hand-looms, and the good woman of the house spends her leisure time in weaving ; the web is very narrow ; others of the family are employed in carding, spinning, or preparing the thread for the loom. The women are very plain looking, and as they grow old they become really ugly ; I allude to the peasants. One might occasionally sec a pretty girl, like a lily among thistles. CITY OF SHANGHAI. 175 The city of Shanghai, is a little to the west of the settlement. It is surrounded by a high wall, three miles in circumference ; perpendicular externally, and gradually sloping internally to a base thirty feet or more in thick- ness : it is composed of rubble. At prominent angles of the wall curious watch-towers project, which were smashed and perforated by Trench shot during the late attack on the city. There are six gates ; the southern gate is very strong, passing through the thickness of the wall : old cannon are strewed about outside of the gate. The suburbs between the city and foreign settlement were burnt during the rebellion, and are now becoming gradually replaced by better buildings. A wide moat smTOunds the city, and at low water presents a very loathsome appearance. I took a stroll through the city, entering by the south gate, and passing a few ragged sentries more miserable in appearance than the rebel guards of 1854. I made the circuit of the city, close to the wall ; most of the houses towards the settlement were still in ruins ; in all directions were stagnant pools, noisome smells, squalid beggars, cripples, itinerant musicians, and gamblers. From this scene of misery I gladly crossed a little bridge, passed a small temple, and entered one of the main streets ; the change was agreeable and instructive- How altered since my last visit, when the city was in possession of the rebels, and those disorderly rascals were employed in wholesale works of destruction, pulling down doors, shutters, carved work, and temples : 17G VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BAREACOUTA. scarcely anything escaped their ruthless fury ; though I believe they respected the Missionary Church, where the voice of the good and devoted Missionary, Rev. Dr. Medhiu-st, was so often heard. Now the streets were crowded with a busy multitude, variously employed ; some hawking sweetmeats and other edibles ; others bearing live pigs, fowls, and vegetables ; labourers with heavy loads of bricks on their shoulders ; coolies carrying some fat mandarin in a sedan chair, and ladies visiting their uncles, — respectable old gentlemen who advance small sums on large deposits. New shops, tastefully fitted with ornaments and plants, had risen up in the places of the old ones. As it is not frequently that a person has an oppor- tunity of visiting a Chinese city, on this occasion I entered many shops, some of them peculiarly Chinese. The front of the first I visited was adorned with all sorts of grotesque figures imaginable, richly carved and gilded : griffins, serpents, and devils ; the window was open, and a neat balustrade separated the shop from the street. Within was a great display of China ware, china from Soochon, earthenware teapots, speci- mens of very old China, too muchee old — some hundred years old, and very dear ; and from the ceiling depended about sixty handsome lamps. Some well-dressed China- men behind the counter politely offered a pipe and a seat. Dwarf plants decorated various nooks of the shop. Next came the silk shop ; its shelves piled with folded packets of silk of every colour ; raw silks, floss silk, silk CHINESE SHOPS. 177 thread, embroidered silk; very tempting gauzes and crapes. Handsome mirrors and worked screens adorned the establishment; the attendants were "tall boys," from Canton, with a good knowledge of Canton English : one asks, " What you wantee ? Suppose you wantee one piecey silk, first chop my can secure. See that," as he presents a small piece of blue silk sufficient for a dress for a child ; " only twelve dollars ! " I reply that having no desire to purchase at present (the quarter being nearly at its termination), I don't mind giving six dollars. " Ayah : how can ? " seeing me walk away. " Stay : here take it ; mus qui you pay six dollars." He examines the coins very carefully, balancing each one separately on his finger and sounding it with another, first seeing that they were of the reign of Carolus the fourth. The tea shops attracted my attention, their fragrant perfume becoming widely diffused as one approached the warehouse ; I noted the tea canisters, gaily painted with mandarins and their ladies sipping the pale infusion from tiny cups, fantastic houses and fanciful bridges with willows touching the margin of the smooth water and orange trees, the leaves and fruit alternating ; the painted lanterns, delicate scales, and carved seats ; the Japan bowls, with specimens of teas, fine gunpowder, young Hyson, flowery Pekoe, Congou, and Bohea ; and the tiny cups with small teapot on a tray, to test the leaves before purchasing. Expecting to see a rich display of jewelry I entered 178 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. a goldsmith's shop, and was rather disappointed when I saw only a dark apartment surrounded by shelves, having small drawers and plain counter, with some accui'ate scales, and an old spectacled Chinaman conversing with a Avoman as to the value of a ring. Fur shops were enticing from the variety and richness of the stock; including sheep-skins, or the skins of premature lambs, with the wool fine and glossy as silk ; fox skins ; dyed cats' skins ; marten and gray squirrel fur from Tartary ; wolverine and ermine ; and sea otter, which is highly prized : none of these are purchased (as people at home often express themselves) for " half nothing." The medicine stores, had a fair collection of simples ; roots and leaves, foreign and indigenous ; ginseng and rhubarb ; gentian and sarsaparilla ; isinglass and harts- horn, the latter being suspended from the ceiling : it is scraped and boiled and taken by old gentlemen who imagine that it will restore them to a state of "juvenile virility." They also sold dye stuffs ; camphor ; musk and castor ; minerals ; preparations of copper and of mercury ; vermillion in powder and in crystals — the latter thin, bright, and transparent ; arsenic, yellow and white 3 dried snakes, bones and skins ; cosmetics and tooth powder. Leaving the leading streets, I turned off by side streets towards the native shipping. The smell of cooking in grease on all sides tainted the already loaded atmosphere, and the corners of the streets were occupied by wandering A CHINESE TEMPLE. 179 cooks, with frying-pans over charcoal fires, frying fat })ork, and what appeared to inc to be a mixture of lard and flour : it was piled on a wooden trencher, and the cook cut off small portions, and having fried it, pre- sented it to the eager purchaser. The shops for cook- ing were anything but inviting ; the half naked occupants busy in making soup, chopping vegetables, or doling out sundry " cash "-worth of fresh fish. By a crooked path, which I could not again have discovered without a guide, I entered an open space, in which was an artificial lake, with handsome islets, small tem]3les, summer-houses, shrubberies, grottoes, and zig- zag bridges for foot passengers, built of limestone, with balustrades of limestone, the pillars of which were well cut : some of the recesses and angles of the bridges and islets had old carvings and raised figures upon them. Tea-houses, large and cool, with deep green branches drooping over many of the windoAVs and doors, invited the loiterers. It must have been a delightful retreat ere the rebels gained possession of the city. A small temple was appropriated for the sale of pictures, and caricatures of the EngKsh. A wooden bridge led to a terrace sheltered by trees, Avhere were some peep-shows, the objects to be observed not being of a moral ten- dency ; here also were many parties of gamblers : some at cards, dominoes, and wheels of fortune ; others selling fruits, or exhibiting trained birds. In this space stands a large temple, with a broad flight of steps leading to the entrance; traces of its former s 2 180 VOYAGE OF II.M.S. BARRACOUTA. magnificence were visible exteriorly; but everything valuable or moveable had been carried away from the interior : the massive wooden pillars supporting the roof, gilded inscriptions over the altars, and many unwieldy gods, minus an arm or an eye, still remained ; and smaller deities in their niches or in rows, covered with dust, showed how sadly they had been neglected by the priests and worshippers. When sacrifices became scarce, the priests vanished ; as they, like many of their nation, are not happy unless enveloped in fat. Passing through the temple and priests' quarters, a small wicket led to a grotto in the centre of a sheet of water ; a pathway passed by this, and, in a serpentine course, led to the summit of a rockwork mound. Here were strangely shaped stones from all parts of China : some, by the washing of the sea, formed into the resemblance of animals ; others perforated, and hollowed into little cups ; creepers, rock-plants, ferns, and small shrubs, found places for their roots in the crevices of the rocks. Trom the summit there was a fine view of the river and the shipping, with a large part of the city, and some prominent temples, whose roofs had been perforated and gables knocked off by the shot of the French and Imperialists ; a large tract of country lying westward, was varied by hamlets, cotton -fields, clumps of trees, and tombs almost covered by long grass and rank weeds — the favourite sheltering-place of the golden pheasant. Retracing my steps through the temple, I entered one PUNISHMENT OP THE CANGUE. 181 of the tea-lioiises, and sat down by a small table. There were between thirty and forty tables, occupied by re- spectable looking Chinamen and women, smoking, taking tea, or eating sweetmeats. I asked for some refreshment, and in a few moments was supplied with some ground nuts and roasted melon seeds, on small plates ; a very little kettle with boiling water, a covered cup and saucer, and a pinch of dry tea. I made my attendant infuse the tea, which he did by filling the cup with boiling water, covering it, and leaving me to drink it when I wished. The Chinese smoked and chatted together ; and, if I might judge by their laughter, they were in perfect good humour with themselves and their companions. Few would be fool-hardy enough to sit down amongst such a large number of Chinese in Canton, or any of the towns near it ; and few would live to repeat the experiment. After the lapse of ten minutes the waiter returned, bearing a brass basin of hot water and a small towel, to bathe my face and hands. I declined the proffered luxury, and paid for my repast, thirty-four cash, or little more than a penny. I left the city by the North Gate, near VAdiich were some men undergoing the punishment of the Cangue ; a species of pillory, where the unfortunate culprit is exposed to the public gaze. A wooden frame, about three feet square, has in the centre an aperture a little larger than a man's neck in circumference ; it opens in the middle, and when fitted on the culprit, is locked to 182 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. prevent its removal. The sufferer cannot feed himself ; and I think his supply of rations from his gaolers is rather limited ; as he gladly accepts even a single cash, or a piece of bread put into his mouth. Small cages, with bare skulls within them, overhang the gate exte- riorly, as a warning to malefactors ; but I doubt if any of the said class of individuals ever raise their heads so high : or, if they did, they would be less struck by the presence of the cages than by their absence, so seldom are the walls without the same revolting spectacle. Leaving the gate, I turned to the left, along the banks of a narrow creek, which at this time was half filled by the tide. Crossing a bridge, I examined some deserted earth-works of the Imperialists, who were encamped for a long period in a large plain within gunshot of the city walls. The works were ill con- structed and ill devised. Part of the wall showed many marks of shot ; and breaches had been made in many places towards the top of the wall : it is not thick, but too high for the Imperialists to attempt to assault ; and but for a short, gallant, and daring attack of a handful of Frenchmen, they would have had to " chou cliou " half rations of rice for many a day in their open encamp- ment, ere the city would have acknowledged them masters. CHAPTER XVI. Graves— Memorial Gates — Graves in South of China — Mourning — Picnics — The river — Lung-hwa pagoda — The country — Woosung— Opium-ships — Process of testing the drug — Smoking opium — Walled town of Pao-shun — Theatre — Chinese foshionable mode of travelling — Bath-houses — Qui-tze — Tai-ping-Wan — French missionaries. Graves are scattered around without any trace of regularity ; and unlike those in the southern provinces, they are allowed to crumble to pieces, without any attempt at restoration. The cofRn is placed on the bare and moist earth, without any covering, save a piece of coarse matting, bound round with rattans; and the noisome smells from the decomposing bodies renders a walk in the country not very enjoyable. In some in- stances there are brick coverings over the coffin, and an inscribed tablet is placed at the foot. Eood for the souls of the departed — such as an orange, cake, or some tea, is frequently to be seen on the top of the grave. I observed a row of earthenware vases, the mouths closed and plastered with lime; these, I was informed, con- tained the bodies of infants, and being placed by the foot- paths, are liable to meet with accidents : which, however, are disregarded by the natives. Rudely carved figures of horses, with trappings in coarse-grained granite, are 184 VOYAGE OF n.M.S. BAERACOUTA. frequently to be met with in the neighbourhood of Shanghai — placed to the memory of some Mandarin or Provincial Governor. Here also memorial gates of granite are common — two strong upright pillars, sup- porting a heavy transverse block, with inscriptions deeply carved upon it : the upright pillars also bear inscriptions, although not in every instance. Much more pains in the selection of sites for graves and in the burial of the dead are observed as we proceed south. On the sunny side of a hill a small terrace is cut out, and upon this a tomb is built, in shape closely resembling the Greek n,; an appropriate symbol of man's earthly termination. A low wall, built of brick and plastered, takes the form of the letter ; on either side of which stands an upright pillar, neatly formed. Within the wall the ground is smooth and flat ; a vertical slab stands at the summit of the arc, and on it are inscribed (frequently in letters of gold) the name, age, and virtues of the deceased ; at the foot of this is a horizontal slab covering the descent to the grave. The view from these burial-places is sometimes commanding and picturesque. Here the relations of the deceased meet at stated times for the purpose of offering up prayers to their ancestor, or decorating the tomb with flowers, and presenting a bouquet for his soul's good. On my retm-ning towards the settlement, my attention was directed towards a small dwelling, from the door and windows of which sounds of melancholy wailings, intermingled with loud shrieks, issued. Not knowing CHINESE MOURNERS — A PIC-NIC. 185 the cause, I proceeded to the door, and looking in, saw a number of persons, arrayed in white robes, crying over a dead body which was laid out on a bed — if such a name may be applied to a plain piece of matting placed on a broad board. Fillets of white calico were bound around their heads, the extremities falling over the back ; white cords being interplaited in the queues of the men and boys ; each person presented a careworn appearance, as if he or she had passed some days without food, and at the same occupation. The whole scene strongly resembled the wakes and l-eenhigs practised on such occasions by the peasantry of the west of Ireland. I left them to their sorrows ; and having started a few pheasants and quails, I reached the ship, well satisfied with my day's excursion. In the social town of Shanghai, some of the young people occasionally hire a large covered boat, and make a pic-nic excursion up some of the branches of the river, to visit some object of interest, and return at night. I formed one of a party of excursionists, who started on a fine frosty morning for a cruise up the river. A French cook supplied the viands, and the wines and old *' spotted Manillas " were a present from Mr. G — , one of the partners in a well-known firm. The sportsmen were all excitement to see that theu guns were in good order and their ammunition secm'c : enough of the latter came on board to storm a good sized battery, instead of a stray pheasant or hare ; and the readers were provided with the latest Times, or Illustrated News, from England, or 186 VOYAGE OP H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. railway novels and periodicals, none of which had a chance of being looked into till onr retnrn : the hurry and bustle of the latest arrival, who was within an ace of being late ; the servants unpacking hampers, and stowing away the ingredients, the sight of Bass's Pale Ale making many already grow thirsty, produced a scene of laughable con- fusion, which did not end till we were fairly under weigh. The junk was spacious and comfortable, with two cabins ; the foremost for cooking and use of our attend- ants ; the other large, with a long central table, having lounges around it. The amateur sailors "hoisted away" our white square sail, with more noise than would be permitted at the same operation on board of a well ordered man-of-war. And now with a fair breeze we passed the native ships and the front of the city, which has anything but a romantic or picturesque appearance. The French Mis- sionary Monastery became visible, and we got into the broad and Avinding muddy stream ; the country on either side is flat and iminteresting, the margins of the river low and muddy, and thickly fringed with rushes, from which we started many wild duck and teal as we passed. The wind grew light, but with the tide still in our favour, we approached a small creek, leading towards a pagoda ; the creek was crossed by a strange old bridge, under shelter of which we anchored. We divided into three parties ; the sportsmen led the way, and landed fully equipped to destroy untold numbers of game ; next, came an exploring party, to examine the pagoda. I LUNG-HWA PAGODA. 187 accompanied tins division ; whilst we left on board our volunteer cooks and caterers. On landing in a small sampan, we passed through a small village, and came to a gate with pillars of granite on each side, and some grotesque figures, skilfully carved, guarding the entrance. The gateway opened into a large and spacious courtyard, full of Joss houses in various stages of dilapidation. Heaps of stones and broken idols cumbered the ground ; where weeds were growing in abundance. Priests, few in number and miserable in appearance, strayed about from temple to temple, pale and lazy. The Pagoda stands nearly central, and is seven stories in height ; projecting eaves and galleries surround each story, and from the margins of the former are hung at intervals, small bells with flat leaf-like tongues, which are continually being moved by the wind, producing a sweet and low tinkling sound. In the lower story there is a central apartment, with altar and railing enclosing a large gilded god ; smaller ones repose in the shade of the great divinity Buddha. A spiral staircase leads from one story to another, a doorway opening to the gallery. There are many niches for gods placed in the thickness of the wall. The interior of the wall in the upper story is completely covered with the names of visitors from all parts of the world ; especially of Englishmen, who when visiting any markable place, are sure to write or carve their names in a con- spicuous spot, to let the world know that John Smith or James Brown honoured it by his presence. This ]88 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BAEEACOUTA. Pagoda, named the " Lung-Hwa," is tv/enty-four miles from Shanghai. The view from the summit is extensive; embracing the distant city, wide plains, winding streams, and villages and hamlets embowered in trees. Towards the north-west, in the hazy distance, the country appeared more hilly. Returning by the village, where all the people were industriously employed, putting cotton through its various processes, separating the seeds, carding and spinning, weaving and bleaching, wheat drying on mats, children in numbers came running out to look at the " barbarians :" all were civil and good-humoured. We reached the junk by four o'clock, and were soon afterwards joined by the sports- men, with a few pheasants and plover ; the appetite of each person was sharpened by the open air exercise, and with a hearty good will we sat down to a capital repast ; wit, merriment, songs and cigars being the order of the evening. With the ebbing tide we drifted down the river, and at ten o'clock came to anchor abreast of the Barraconta. November 4th. With an agreeable companion, I set out for a walk to Woosung, a distance of ten miles through the country, and twelve by water. Crossing a small ferry near the British consulate, we got into the narrow streets of a small and dirty village ; the odour from eating-houses and other shops being repulsive as usual. Leaving this place, which is in the rear of the American settlement, we passed over a fine bridge, which spans a broad creek, and soon got fairly into the country. OPIUM TESTING. 189 Cotton fields with narrow paths through them, graves here and there, and hamlets surrounded by trees and stagnant pools, varied the scene. There was a fair pro- portion of children and dogs, vying with one another as to which would make the greater noise ; fowls flying to the haggards for protection, as if we had waged war on all plumed beings ; and old women tottering on their small feet, smoked and looked as we passed, blessing their stars, no doubt, that they were not barbarians. We were frequently puzzled by the branching paths, and were compelled occasionally to retrace our steps. Approaching the opium-ships, which are compelled to anchor near Woosung, a large bank or bund running along the course of the river prevents the country from being inundated. A few small gardens belonging to the captains of the opium-ships are carefully cultivated in the European style. We went on board the "Ta Le" or Sioalloio, and had an opportunity of observing the process of opium testing. A Chinaman wished to purchase six chests of " the drug " as it is called. From each chest a small piece was selected, which was put, with a little river water, into thin and shallow brass pans and placed over a charcoal brazier ; a row of the latter running lengthwise along the deck. The fires were fanned and the heat maintahied until the opium appeared thoroughly dissolved. The solutions were then strained through paper filters (six double) placed on small wicker baskets, into porcelain cups. Should the solution pass quickly through the paper, it is a test of 190 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. its piu'ity ; its passing slowly, leaving a sediment on the paper, are signs of impuiities in the drug, and it is con- sequently rejected. The product is then returned to the pans, and boiled to the consistence of treacle ; when it is removed from the fire, scraped out into little cups, and allowed to stand till all the specimens have undergone the same process. Then the buyer takes up one of the cups, and stirring its contents with a small stick, draws the opium up so that it may intercept the light. If it is red and transparent, it is entitled No. 1 : black speckled is of an inferior quality. On this occasion all the specimens passed muster, and each chest sold for 150/. The extracts and remains of the specimens are the perqui- sites of the " testers," a set of felloAvs who accompany the purchasers. It is strange what a fascination is attached to the smoking of opium. To obtain the means of gratifying his taste for this enervating and demoralising habit, the Chinaman would pawn his shoes, coat, hat, or any- thing he possessed. In some of the back streets at Shanghai, there are numbers of opium shops. Passing through a narrow street, and being attracted by the smell of burning opium, I was induced to enter one of these veritable hells. The room was dark and dismal, and the occupants, one might say, were in the lowest state of degradation. Along the wall on one side of the room, some covered sofas were placed ; a small table with lamps stood before each, affording sufficient light to expose the S(|ualid faces and persons of the OPIUM SMOKING. 191 smokers. They were in different stages of intoxication ; some slightly exhilarated, others talkative, their eyes wild and bright and their faces red ; others becoming drowsy, their limbs relaxing into an easy posture for sleep : one completely overcome, lay prostrate and asleep, breathing heavily ; near him were his opium pipe and low-crowned hat with broad brim. A well dressed Chinaman entered, and depositing the necessary sum, took his place on a lounge; having obtained the pipe and opium, he commenced operations by taking a long needle and stirring the point of it in the small opium box, whence he drew forth a piece the size of a small bead, which he placed over a minute hole on the head of the pipe. The lamp was now brought into requisition ; holding the head of the pipe to the flame, he inhaled the smoke from the bamboo stem. He evidently relished the luxury, as he again and again replenished the pipe. Now he appears pleased with himself and all the world ; a few whiffs more and his eyes grow bright, his face is jolly, red, and laughing ; still more, and the pipe becomes too heavy for his hand, and his head for his shoulders ; he becomes forgetful of the Avorld and of its cares, and sleeps : to dream of Elysian fields. Paradise, or Sooc/iozv. On one occasion, when we had some captured pirates on board, I was called to see an old man who had not partaken of any food for two days : he lay in the fore troop-deck in a weak and helpless state. I guessed the cause of his ihness, and had with me a small piece 192 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. of opium in a crude state, which I presented to him. He did not recognise it in that state ; but when I mentioned the word " opium " his old eyes danced with joy ; he kissed my hand, and at once commenced eating the drug, and was soon restored to health and ready for food. With my companion Mr. M , of the British Con- sulate, we started from Woosung for the walled town of Pao-shun, which is about four miles distant. Walking along the bank of the river, we passed the old batteries of Woosung, which are in the same state as when the British left them in 1842 : they extended along the western bank of the river for three miles, and for a time were well defended ; the Chinese general acting bravely to the last, and by his heroic conduct set an example to his troops : he died pierced with many wounds. At one time there were upwards of 300 guns mounted along the west bank ; a few still remain on dilapidated carriages ; some very long and very heavy are lying in various positions, their trunnions smashed and muzzles broken : inscriptions raised on the barrels, give an account of when they were cast, and by whom. All the brass guns had long since been removed ; and an attempt had been made to get some of the guns together: they were arranged in a row ; but the grass had grown above them, and there they are likely to remain for ages to come, a monument of Chinese barbarism and cowardice. We entered the town by a gate facing the river ; the guards asked no questions, nor did they appear to care who entered or left the town. From the numbers of A THEATEICAL AUDIENCE. 193 well dressed people, all going in the same direction, we were led to believe that ^oiwQfale or religious ceremony was being celebrated. We folloAved the crowd through some narrow streets till we arrived at the entrance to a large courtyard attached to a temple. A large bronze fountain occupied the centre of the yard, Avhich was crowded with people, anxiously awaiting some theatrical representations about to take place on a stage elevated at the end over the entrance ; on each side were covered galleries, filled with some of the well dressed gentry of the neighbourhood: young ladies elegantly attired in flowered silks, their smiling fair faces freshened by carmine gently laid on, their lips painted red as cherries, and their hair tastefully dressed and decorated with wreaths of flowers or strings of pearls. Old women tottered up the steps leading to the galleries, supporting their steps by the aid of an umbrella ; and there were children, of all ages and sizes, some like little bundles which might be rolled and tossed in all directions Avith impunity. Our appearance created a commotion amongst the fairer members of the audience : not that we in anywise pre- sented a fascinating appearance, but they looked on us in the light of intruders. Something must be done to prevent the departure of the fair ones, and that promptly, as they were looking for a good opportunity to decamp ; so we purchased a basket of oranges, and won the good will of the mothers by our attentions to their children, while we amused the mob by scattering oranges amongst them : Cheers and laughter followed ; and old 10 i VOYAGE OF II.M.S. BARRACOUTA. and young tumbled over one another whenever we threw an orange into the courtyard, all in good humour. The best seat was noAv offered to us, and we felt no longer strangers ; we wanted but a knowledge of the language to be perfectly happy. After spending an hour or so, waiting in vain for the performance to commence, we took our departm'e to another part of the city where some literary examinations were taking place : but there was " no admittance except on business." It was in vain that we tempted the janitors with bribes j they shook their heads and said " No can," As there was nothing else to be seen in the walled town, we passed through a gate opposite to the one by which wc entered, into the country. The land was being prepared for new crops ; cotton fields had been dug up, and wheat fields were ready for the grain. Many persons were flocking to the town, some in sedan chairs, others on ponies, and a few of the ladies were wheeled along in their carriages — wheel-barrows with a large wheel in the centre, on each side of which sat a lady with her back to the driver and her stunted feet protruding from wide silk trousers, Avhile a small parasol prevented the sun from visiting " her face too roughly." We reached the " Ta Le," in time to partake of the hospitable fare of Captain H , and afterwards to prepare for a shooting excur- sion. Duck and teal were in large numbers about the island, in the north of the river, and at its mouth. Bath-houses for the lower classes are common enough at Shanghai ; but it was sometime ere I discovered CHINESE BATH-HOUSE. 195 their whereabouts. Rambling through the back streets, I entered a house from the door of which a dense volume of steam issued ; at first I could see but a few steps before me, soon I was able to discover through the steam the bodies of some Chinamen, who were scrub- bing away as if determined to remove not only the epidermis but the skin itself. On the left of the entrance a man sat behind a desk to receive the price of the bath — four cash, or one twenty -fifth part of a penny. In the same line with the desk, a row of lockers held the dresses of the bathers ; further to the left was a tea and smoking room, also a dressing room. On the right and before me were some apartments separated from the principal room by a w^all two feet in height, having within them a row of small baths with water hot or tepid as required. The bather strips naked, and, entering the bath, is supplied with a coarse towel ; he at once com- mences scrubbing and dashing the water over him for some minutes ; emerging into another atmosphere he rubs himself dry, until the skin becomes quite red. He then retires to the tea room, enjoys a cup of tea, for which he pays eight cash, and a pipe of tobacco, four cash, and walks away to resume his ordinary occupation ; which may be that of a coolie or Avorkman. I had no idea that the Chinese in the lower walks of life made such frequent use of warm water as ablutions. 1 have never witnessed any of them suff'ering from colds, though they have no fires in their dwellings. They maintain a uniform temperature of body by warm 2 196 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. clothing, which they graduahy increase as the weather grows colder ; the temperatiu'e here frequently falling as low as 1G° below freezing point. Tlie wealthier portion of the community wear rich furs ; for some of which they do not scruple to pay two hundred dollars. The favourite skin appears to be that of the premature black lamb ; this is not very expen- sive, but it is difficult to distinguish one from the skin of the Avhite lamb, skilfully dyed. Allowed to follow their own modes of work, the Chinese are exceedingly industrious ; but they arc unwillin g to learn from a foreigner. Once strike a Chinaman, or interfere with his mode of doing whatever is required to be done, and he grows careless and unwilling to work at any price. I frequently think we are too overbearing in our conduct toAvards the Chinese. We, by favour or otherwise, have obtained settlements in this foreign country ; and it should be our object to win their esteem and respect by conciliating behaviour, which would tend to increase our commercial relations Avith the country, as well as to open a fair road for the praise- worthy efforts of Christian missionaries. How do we attempt the furtherance of these desirable objects? As far as 1 can see, by a system of bullying : I regret I cannot use a milder term. I speak from Avhat I myself have seen : one instance will suffice for many. I was Avalking through a Chinese village with one of the residents of Shanghai ; the streets were rather crowded, but the people with their usual goodnature TREATMENT OF THE CHINESE BY FOREIGNERS. 197 made way for us ; not, however, with activity sufficient to satisfy my companion, who with a walking stick poked tlie men out of his Avay, now on this side now on that ; the Chinese takhig this rudeness all in good part, merely exclaiming, " Ayah." In any other part of the world such conduct would not he tolerated. In many of the houses of foreigners they meet with the same harsh treat- ment, which has the effect of making them arrant knaves, perfectly void of respect or affection for their masters. The house dog of the peasantry well knows the approach of the English foreigner, and salutes him with distant growls and barks, as he retreats before a volley of stones, whilst the owner mutters the words " Qui-tz " — devil's son. The French are more conciliatory than the English or Americans, consequently are more successful in the propagation of the Gospel, and are allowed a freer inter- course with the people. Were the English and Americans to ticcompany their native firmness with gentleness, the Chinese would gain an idea of them as being a powerful yet gentle race, honest and just in their dealings ; and of their having acquired that power and those good qualities by being followers of and believers in Christ, and that their mission is the promotion of civilisation throughout the globe. Then indeed we might hope to see realised the hopes and wishes of those good people at home who send missionaries to these distant regions, and to find the Cross proclaimed throughout the length and breadth of ''Sinin," 198 VOYAGE OF H.M.S, BAERACOUTA. The blasphemous ideas of Tai-ping-wang and his followers are well knoAvn, since the visit of H.M.S. Battler, when a rebel chief sent a message on board entitling the leader " elder brother of Christ." The zeal and devotion of the Trench missionaries are frequently rewarded with snccess : educated at the missionary college of Paris, not only in theology and the manner of teaching it, but also in useful sciences and languages, and in sundry manual accomplishments, they devote their life solely to the furtherance of religion, without domestic ties or any hope of revisiting their native land. Once ordained, all earthly ties are broken, and the priest stands ready to obey his supe- riors, and go forth to preach the Gospel to the heathen in the most distant parts of the globe. If destined for China, he sails from London, via the Cape of Good Hope, and having encountered the hardships and trials of a long sea voyage, arrives at Hong Kong, whence he is sent to Shanghai or Ningpo, to study the Chinese languages in one of the monasteries. There he spends two years, adapting himself to the customs and costume of the people amongst whom he must spend the remainder of his life ; he subjects himself to a rigorous course of study, and, when perfect in the language, is sent to different parts of the country, running many risks whilst endeavouring to teach this strange and h'eathen people. An exile, the ill-rewarded missionary remains at his work till called upon to render an account of his ministry to Him who issued his mandate, " Go ye forth. THE ROMAN CATHOLIC MISSIONARY. 199 preacli to all nations." He rests from his labours, not in his well-beloved France, not near the mother who gave him birth, or the loved brother or friend, but in a far distant land, amongst those to whose souls' welfare he devoted his life, zealously using those talents lent to him for wise purposes. There are many reasons why the Roman Catholic religion Avould make a rapid progress in China ; one is that it possesses so many forms and ceremonies which are addressed to the senses, and not to the reasoning powers. The rich vestments, stiff with gold, the solemn music and low chant ; the showy altar with pictures of saints, carved images, and golden chalice ; the burning of incense, the aromatic perfume of which is diffused around ; the rows of bright lights in silver candelabras ; all tend to lure the mind of the Chinese from the gorgeous mummery of Buddhism into this phase of the Christian faith. CHAPTER XVII. High Mass for the French killed in action— Implements of husbandry— Dr. Lockhart's hospital — Piratical cruise — Chusan — City fortifications — Temple — Graves of the British — Potoo Island — Buddha — Bonzes — Chinhai— Opium Clipper — Ningpo wares — City and fort of Chinhai — Temple of Confucius — Cattle— Salt. On the anniversary of the attack by the French on tlie city of Shanghai, 26th January, 1855, the Captain and officers of the Barracouta attended high mass in the Roman CathoUc chapel in the French settlement, for the repose of the souls of those slain in action. Enter- ing the chapel, we took our allotted places, and waited some time for the commencement of the ceremony ; meanwhile the body of the chapel was rapidly filling ■with Chinese ; men, women, and children, arrayed in their best attire, who knelt devoutly as they entered, and remained on their knees. A double row of aco- lytes, with tapers in their hands, advanced up the aisle towards the altar, on reaching the foot of which the lines separated on either side of the altar, making way for the bishops and priests, who, with measured step, approached the lowest step, kneeling for a moment, and then ascend- ing to the front, the attendants holding up the Bishop's HIGH MASS AT SHANGHAI. 201 train. Then the music commenced ; a deep-toned harmonium being played upon by a Chinaman ; the service in Latin, was chanted by Chinese, their pronunciation being accurate and clear ; the mass was sung by the Bishop in a sonorous voice, with true Italian accent ; and the " De Profundis " and " Adeste fideles" w^ere fairly sung. The Bishop having concluded, took a seat, whilst one of the priests delivered a short discom^se suitable to the occasion of the ceremony. A procession was then formed, the priests leading the way to the tomb, and chanting some prayers as we advanced. On arriving before an obelisk beneath which lay the bodies of the French marines and sailors, the French acting Consul delivered an impressive oration ; he alluded to the causes of the attack, and the manner of desertion on the part of the Imperialists when reaching the breach, leaving the French, few in numbers, unsup- ported, to bear the brunt of a very heavy fire. I believe the loss sustained by the French on this occasion, between killed and wounded, amounted to thirty-nine. Eye- witnesses have told me that they fought like lions ; the officers being first in the fray. One brave fellow, named De Guise, who had many friends in the British squadron, lost a leg in the afi'air. The ceremony over, we returned on board ; the Bishop, priests, and students remaining to take luncheon with the consul The weather for the first few days was fine and frosty, pleasant for excursions, or shooting; there was game in plenty : pheasants, hares, wild geese, teal, divers, 202 VOYAGE OF II.M.S, BAERACOUTA. quails, and snipe. Oar successful sportsmen usually brought on board large well-filled bags. Game shot with lead is an acceptable present to the ladies of Shanghai, as the Chinese use iron shot, which is rather detrimental to the teeth. The winter evenings passed pleasantly; there was always some bright fireside to welcome a friend to a dance, whist party, or amateur theatricals : the rehearsals of the latter being more amusing than the public performances. The instruments of husbandry used in the north of China are limited in number, rude in construction, and of simple invention. The harrow and plough resemble ours, though very roughly put together. The water buffalo, a very useful animal in China and India, drags the plough through the wheat-fields. He dehghts to lie in muddy pools, with his head alone above water. He has a strange antipathy to foreigners ; and will chase a stranger, and, if successful in the pursuit, trample him under foot. The beef is pretty good, though coarse ; the fat being hard, yellow, and unpalatable. The hand-mill for grinding corn or rice resembles the well-known "Querns" in Ireland. It is composed of two rough horizontal stones ; the under one fixed in the earth, the upper one moveable, and turned by an upright spindle. The winnowing machine is very perfect, closely resembling those commonly met with in English farm-yards. The modes used in manuring vegetables may be successful, but are not pleasant either to the eyes or nose of a stranger : instead of devoting attention to the roots of the HOSPITALS AT SHANGHAI, 203 plant, they expend a considerable amount of labour in covering the leaves with liquid manure. There are two good hospitals at Shanghai, one for merchant-seamen, who are received and skilfully treated for a small sum ; the other, a missionary hospital for the treatment of Chinese. It has been under the care of Dr. Lockhart, who has been in the country since 1839. This gentleman connected with the London Missionary Society, established an hospital in the Isle of Chusan ; and his labours there were attended with marked success. I am not aware when he left Tinghai, but I think it was in 1842 that he arrived in Shanghai, perfectly conversant with the Chinese language and its various dialects. Talented in his profession, kind and courteous to his patients, he has gained the esteem and respect of all classes and creeds. During the year ending 31st December, 1853, 11,028 cases Avere attended to; of these, 331 were gun-shot wounds; burns from gunpowder, 16; and 45 cases of sword-wounds. In 1854 there were 12,181 cases ; some of these were very serious ; 299 gun-shot wounds ; 113 sword and spear wounds ; 24 burns from gunpowder ; other wounds, 370. The numbers of wounds were owing to the attacks upon the city by the Imperialists. The Triads having had at this time sole possession of the city, the shots from the city occasionally took erratic courses ; some falling within the Settlement, and a few close to the missionary hospital. In 1855 the number of patients still increased ; amounting, in this year, to 204- VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. 12,237; the gun-shot wounds but 53; sword wounds, 26. The small amount of wounds in comparison with the two previous years, is attributed to the cessation of hostilities between the rebels and Imperialists ; the latter having obtained possession of the city in February, 1855. Those of the besieged who were so unfortunate as to fall into the hands of the Imperialists were treated with wanton cruelty ; hundreds were beheaded and thrown into pits without the city walls ; a Dutchman was flayed alive, and a few other foreigners suffered a like punishment. Mercy was shown but to very few : it is not often comprised in the list of Chinese virtues. On the 13th January, 1856, we left Shanghai on a cruise after pirates. The sky became overcast ; there was much rain, with heavy squalls, which compelled us to anchor at Woosung. Here we were joined by the chartered steamer Confucius. Pirates had been committing sundry depredations amongst the native shipping, and inter- fering with the sailing of many junks bound for various ports — Lai Chu, Cha-pu, Tang-Chu, Ningpo, Foochow, and Amoy. On the 14th we sailed, and anchored under the lee of Gutzlaff island. The next day we steamed towards Tai Shan Island, one of the Chusan group, and anchored in the evening in shelter of Lanseed Island. We saw nothing of the pirates ; they no doubt kept as watchful eyes on us as we endeavoured to do on them. The island is rocky and barren ; rude piles of granite rising from the water, with but few green spots to " rest the eyes upon." In some of the ravines a fisherman's CRUISE m SEARCH OF PIRATES. 205 house might be seen peeping through some trees, which usually embower the dwellings of the Chinese. A bright green patch of rice ground and stripe of sweet potatoes, alone showed the trace of cultivation. On the 16th we steamed round the pretty island of Chusan, and through the Chookee Island passage, where we saw two junks endeavouring to escape. From the cut of then* sails, the great rake of their masts forwards, and their peculiar build, we at once knew they had no business from their own department of Fuhkien. Broad and light astern, the prow narrow in the bows, they are admirably adapted for sailing with light winds. We gave chase, and soon came within range of our bow 68-pounder, the shot from which whistled as it went on its deadly mission. As usual, the pirates made for the nearest shore, which having reached, they lost no time in making good their departm*e. Overboard they went, with as many valuables as they could scrape together ; a shot carrying away the mainmast of one of the junks, hastened their departure ; and they looked not behind till fatigue compelled them to rest on the sides of the hills. Here they sat looking at the burning of their ill-gotten wealth, till roused to a sense of their situation by the shiging of a Minie bullet. Having completed the work of destruction, we steamed through the Cambrian Pass and Melville Channel, and anchored in Chusan harbour, before the fortifications. Some of the islands in the vicinity of Chusan are very pretty, though scantily wooded with dwarf shrubs and trees ; except in valleys, where trees 206 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. rich in foliage have long been nourished to shelter the hamlets. A little to the right of the anchorage there was a small creek, in which a suspicious looking junk was drawn up. We had heard that she was a pirate, and that the Toutai, or Chief Magistrate, of the island con- nived at her illegal traffic . Early on the following morning an armed party Avas sent to examine and take possession of the junk ; but during the night all her guns had been carefully removed, so that we were com- pelled to leave her at her anchorage. Not one of the crew was to be found. The Island of Chusan is twenty-one miles long, its breadth varying from seven to ten miles, and upwards of fifty miles in circumference. It is the richest island in the Chusan group. The island is intersected by valleys richly cultivated winding between high hills and peaks of porphyry and feldspar, coarse granite, and clay slate. The best vieAv of the island is from the citadel of Tinghai, which is in lat. 30° 1', N., 122° 6', E. long. Erom this height there is an extensive view of rice grounds, at this season almost under water; of deep creeks, and canals, on whose banks are strangely-formed ice-houses, built partly of stone and partly of mud mixed with straw : they are of a conical shape, and, from a dis- tance, present a curious appearance. Temples and hamlets, distant isles, hill-sides cultivated, the suburbs of Tinghai, along the beach, and the town itself, which is situated in a broad valley diversify the scene. A paved THE ISLAND OF CHUSAN. 207 street leads from one of the gates of the town to the sea beach. Tinghai was built regardless of order as to its shape, convenience being first studied : it is surrounded by a wall and moat or canal, three miles in circumference, Avhich communicates with the interior of the town by a water-gate. Small watch-towers are placed on different angles of the wall, slightly projecting. It is a populous and busy place, but the streets arc narrow and dirty, and the houses, with some exceptions, ill-built. I rambled about the country, and witnessed the process of irrigating the rice grounds : raised paths or embank- ments, at right angles to one another, prevented the water, when once in, from passing out ; a large wheel, turned by a handle, and supported on two uprights, has a circle of buckets attached to it, the lowest one dips deeply into the water, and, on arriving at the top of the wheel, becomes overturned, pouring its contents into the paddy field. A long street runs along the beach in the rear of a high embankment — the old batteries ; it is named Tantau, and is thickly inhabited. Here are shops for the sale of fish, fruit, and vegetables ; a few pawn offices, and the remains of the hospital. The line of embankment ran along the beach for the distance of two miles ; this was well armed and manned, when attacked by the British in July, 1840: junks also assisted in the defence of the port. The resistance was, however, feeble and of short duration ; the unfortunate Chinese could not understand the quickness and precision with which our blue jackets 208 VOYAGE OF H.M.S, BAERACOUTA. sent their deadly missives, so they fled in all directions ; but many of their officers remained at their posts till shot down. After being garrisoned for some time, the island was evacuated. When revisited in September, 1841, it was seen that the Chinese had not been idle during the past year : the batteries had been increased and strength- ened ; new redoubts thrown up ; newly-cast guns were mounted; troops in vast numbers filled the city and suburbs ; everything seemed to favour their exhibiting a determined front. Fire from the British ships was opened on the morning of the 1st of October, and for two hours the Chinese stood manfully to their guns, cheered on by their officers ; but soon, however, the fire from the citadel and batteries slackened ; and when the troops landed, they met with but a brief show of resist- ance. Numbers of dead and dying were found lying about; amongst them the Commander-in-Chief, sm-- rounded by many of his officers. The city walls w^ere escaladed and taken ; and our troops entered by the broken walls of the Cameronian Hill ; the Chinese flying in all directions. Vast quantities of ammunition and ordnance were taken possession of, forty -five brass guns included. The occupation of Chusan was attended with disas- trous results. UpAvards of 400 of the troops died from the effects of exposure, fevers, dysentery, and from drink- ing the vile spirits distilled from rice ; many were kid- napped without the walls, and beheaded, or carried to the mainland, where a good price could be obtained for CHUSAN. 209 the head of a barbarian. Chusan is considered to be one of the healthiest islands in China, though there arc so many swampy plains in it ; the city itself also, is built in a low, sheltered, unhealthy spot. During our visit, we saw Chusan under the most dis- advantageous circumstances. It was cold winter weather, and many of the hill- tops, which here range as high as one thousand feet, were covered with snow. The people here are very friendly and peaceable, and retain a fair knowledge of the English language : I heard some Chinamen speak with a purer accent, and freer from the mongrel terminations, than in any other part of China. One wdio acted as guide, led me by a winding path to the citadel, which is situated on a hill about 200 feet above the level of the sea. The walls around, ^nd some fine old trees, are much damaged by shot and wshell. The temple within the walls was in very good order ; some of the josses being riclily gilded, and the body of the temple decorated with evergreens, skilfully tended, as their rich foliage evidenced. A covered gallery, opening towards the centre, ran around the court-yard ; here were altars to all the gods in heaven and hell, and representations of the various punishments which the souls of the wicked are supposed to undergo in that abyss, carved and painted with all the horrors that the morbid imagination of a Chinaman could conceive : men and women are swimming in flames of fire, whilst they are scourged by furies with whips ; devils hideous in shape are tearing asunder the limbs of some unfortunate 210 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BAERACOUTA. coolie ; other criminals are being screwed between two boards, and sawn through, commencing at the head ; another malefactor is depicted as having his eyes torn out vriih hot pincers. A Bonze, or Buddhist priest, who accompanied us, pointed out with much exultation these revolting spectacles. Leaving the citadel by a side doorway, we entered the grave-yard where the foreigners lie buried. It is on the slope of a hill, looking in one direction towards a broad rice valley, and in another towards the sea. Here are many tombstones, erected to the memory of many of the brave 55th regiment, which suffered so much whilst stationed on this island. They have been respected by the Chinese residents ; not a stone being turned from the position in which it had been placed. A small sum would be sufficient to build a neat wall around the cemetery ; and a few trees planted on the brow of the hill, would tend to beautify and honour the place of repose of those who fell for their country. A few miles to the east of Chusan lies the celebrated island Potoo, or Puto, the head-quarters of Buddhism in China. It is remarkable for the number of its temples, its antiquity, its independence of the Chinese government, and the number of priests, who spend theu* days in ignorance and sloth. We had but a passing glance of the islet, which is narrow, and four miles or nearly so in length. Gentle hills rise from the shore ; there are pleasant valleys, well wooded ; and cool rivulets pass by temples which, surrounded by the pine and ISLAND OF rOTOO. 211 cypress, stud the surface of the island : some arc iu ruins, others partly so ; a few have withstood the ravages of time for the last 700 years. There are grottoes in shel- tered nooks ; tea-houses, and cultivated spots. The soil is a rich loam, as one might judge from the luxmiance of the evergreens, even in winter. The rocks, and crevices in the rocks are considered holy, as here lie bm-ied thousands of priests, some of whom died on their mission on the mainland. The bodies of others, I believe, were bm'ued, and their ashes are preserved iu jars, hermetically sealed. On the summits of the hills are monasteries. Buddha and the Goddess of Mercy are the principal divinities worshipped here : " Fidi," or Buddha, reigns triumphant in the grove, the garden, or the temple. Children, who are educated for priests from five years old, sing the praises of the god in a very short monotonous line : they tell them out on beads, and beat them on bamboos. One principal Bonze rules this and many of the sur- rounding islets, which are Cluucli property, and pay tribute to none. Visitors coming here on religious missions, to heal their souls or propitiate the gods, bring presents of rice, sugar, tea, and tobacco ; and it requii*es no inconside- rable amount of food to feed two thousand lazy priests. At one time Puto was richly endowed by the Chmese government, but now it is otherwise ; the Emperor having sufficient troubles on hand, Avithout deigning a thought towards these true believers. The Bonzes are p 2 21;^ VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BAERACOUTA. oblif^ed to lead a life of celibacy; and no fair creatures are allowed to land on the island and disturb tlieir devotions. Not so on parts of the mainland, where one generally finds a nunnery within a stone's throw of a monastery. On the 17tli of January we left Chusan, and sailed for Chinhai, passing the picturesque Silver Island, with its fertile valleys, quiet hamlets, and gentle inlets, where lines of fishing boats lie drawn up on the sandy beach. As we approached the estuary of the Tahia, or Ningpo river, the coast appeared bold : rocky in some parts ; in others the hill-sides were cultivated in terraces. In the dis- tance a range of mountains followed the line of coast ; nearer stood a small town, built on a moist plain at the foot of a pleasant hill. The plain, or rice-ground, portioned out into plots, appeared to have been rescued from the sea, and was now protected from its encroach- ment by a strong embankment. We anchored at evening before the fortifications of Chinhai, and in the mouth of the river. Here were foreign brigs at anchor, lorchas flying Portuguese colom's with native crews ; schooners armed, ready to escort junks to their destined ports for a consideration. Higher up, the painted junks of Ningpo in thick clusters lay at ease before the town of Chinhai : they are built unlike those of any other part of China, theu- stems cut and shaped in a peculiar manner, and having, from a distance, a circular appearance. As the sun rose on the following morning, his bright- ness made us forget that it was winter. The water, NINGPO EIVER — AN OPIUM CLIPPER. 213 tliougli discoloured, was smooth as glass, reflecting the tall masts of the ships on its bosom. Near us lay one of those models of beauty in naval architecture, an " opium clipper," belonging to the eminent house of Dent and Co. ; the hull black, smooth, and as well carved as that of a yacht ; the copper bright ; spars clean and varnished ; the masts with a rake aft, giving her a look of speed ; rigging taut and blacked ; sails as neatly furled as those of a man-of-war; her yards perfectly squared : and six polished brass guns stood on her white deck, theii- muzzles protruding through ports, whose sills were red as vermilion. Scarcely had our ensign been hoisted at the mizen peak ere the clipper followed the motion, and her clean red ensign kissed the water, there not being wind enough to move it from the flagstaff. News of our arrival had reached Ningpo, a distance of twelve miles, during the night, and ere we had time to look around us, trading boats had arrived alongside with all sorts of commodities, for use or ornament : tea, sugar, yams, flour, oranges, limes and dates ; silk and cotton goods ; carved picture-frames, from three dol- lars to thirty a pair, some of pine unvarnished, some varnished and rubbed over with sandal wood oil, to imitate the real sandal wood ; and a few of the true wood, carefully cut, the figures well defined, and the price high : the fragrant wood becomes darker as it grows old, and is always valuable. We were also off'ered soapstone vases, pagodas, idols, and trinket-boxes. 214 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BAERACOUTA. iieat]}^ cut and carved, with leaves and fruit of the grape tnily represented ; woven pictures : narrow strips of paper woven Hke towelHng, and stamped with pic- tures of mandarins, women, or flowers, very easily torn, and rather expensive ; joints of the bamboo formed into goblets or cigar-holders, elegantly carved : the favomite subjects being love scenes, with grottoes, tea- houses, trees and lakes, the fond lovers bowing to one another at a civil distance, whilst observers are slily peeping from behind fans. The strangest curiosities are joss-shells (bivalves), produced by separating the shells while the animal is living, and placing small metallic representations of Buddha on the loAver shell, beneath the fish ; the shells are allowed to close, and are placed on some bank in the Ningpo river, where they are allowed to remain for a considerable time ; they are then re-opened, and the metallic bodies are found adherent to the shell, covered over by a layer of mother-of-pearl. The collection of furs produced was anything but choice : good furs, for which Ningpo is celebrated, are not hawked about ; in fact, the best articles must be sought for in the shops within the city walls. Such were the articles with which the deck was covered in the early morning, before any one had time to make a start for Ningpo. Purchasers were plenty, and the stock in trade grew less. The Chinamen got one-third of the prices they at first demanded, and even then were well paid for their wares. The north bank of the river at its mouth is high, FORT OF CHINHAI. 215 rocky, and projecting ; each rock and prominent point is crowned with fortifications, which, in the hands of a civiUsed power, would prevent ahuost any force from ascending the river ; they being inaccessible from the sea, and almost so from the land, unless by a steep and winding path, which leads from a tongue of land on which the town of Chinhai is built. I landed on the beach, near a well-formed stone battery, situated at the foot of the hill. Twelve large guns were in position looking towards the river, and in very good order ; the platform on which they stood was broad, strong, and formed of granite. By the winding path above men- tioned I ascended to the fort, passing through a cemetery, the graves in which were unlike those I had hitherto seen, having headstones and regular tombs with inscriptions, some very old. As there was not mould six inches in depth on any part of the hill, the cell for the coffin was cut out of the solid rock, or placed upon it, and built over with stones. Many showed marks of attention on the part of the relatives of the deceased ; weeds having been plucked from around the tomb, and flowers scat- tered upon it, or an attempt made to grow a cypress or yew on the sterile soil. Entering the open gate of the fort, which was left unprotected, I Avas struck with the beauty of some fine old trees which surrounded the interior of the fort at a little distance from the walls. Some of the trees had been materially damaged by the shot from the British in 1 841 . One or two o-uns removed from their carriages, 216 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. lay almost covered by tliick grass, with whicli the interior of the fort was overgrown. The fort, an oblong square in shape, was placed on the summit of the hill, 250 feet above the level of the sea ; the wall of brick, was whitewashed externally, and dipped down into each irregularity on the hill's surface ; it was rather weak, not being more than four feet thick in its strongest part. From the centre, a temple elevated its roof above the walls, and on our approach to the river on the previous day, presented a pleasing aspect ; its curved red roof, the gable ends running up to spires, the corners of the eaves curling on themselves, with all manner of strange figures beneath the eaves, and the whitened walls, con- trasting with the dark green trees ; but the charm vanished on a closer inspection. The interior of the temple was sadly neglected ; the floor and altars were covered with dust ; hideous gods of enormous size were rendered more hideous by the loss of an eye, an angle of the mouth, or nose. There were fierce-looking gods of war with sword and shield, their eyes staring with considerable obliquity of vision ; household gods by dozens, standing at the feet of the monster deities; and Buddha himself triumphant, seated in an arm-chair that once was richly gilt : but now a change had come over his aspect, for he looked a mere senseless log. Female deities also graced the neglected temple in the most Avinning postures ; the half-closed languid eye, the fan, as usual, hiding the stealthy smile of self- satisfaction, and the face radiant with most unromantic TEMPLE AT CHINHAI. 217 colours. All old drum and some censers occupied a corner near the altar; and inscriptions in Chinese characters hung around : dead letters in every sense of the word. The priests' apartments, immediately off the temple, Avere unoccupied save by one decrepit old man, the guardian of the fort, whose asthmatic cough first drew my attention to the presence of a living being. Seated by an old table on a tottering old chair, in the darkest corner of a very dark room, he smoked and smoked, and coughed, and sipped a comfortless cup of tea, apparently unaware of the presence of a stranger. I approached him with the usual salutation of " Chin chin fohJcie," and gradually drew him out into the light and fresh air ; from his blanched features he ap- peared to be a stranger to both. He did not under- stand English, so that I could glean but little informa- tion from him. He led me across a narrow fortified ravine to a strong built house, situated on the most projecting cliff, and pointed to a small square apartment, the light to which was admitted by a small porthole. I did not understand from his gesticulations what he meant, till some time afterwards, when I thought he must have alluded to it as being the prison of Mrs. Noble, who in the commencement of the last war was captured and imprisoned here ; a gloomy residence it must have been. The view from this eminence was very fine along the coast. A breakwater, extending three miles in length, 218 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BAKRACOUTA. protects the town and flat country near it from being inundated ; it is constructed of large blocks of granite thrown together without cement. The islands of the Chusan Archipelago are seen in the distance, some simple volcanic cones, others long, hilly, and thickly peopled. Southward the country is fertile, and hilly ; villages and hamlets in all directions, cultivated terraces and green fields, exhibit the peaceable and industrious habits of the people in this part of the country. Looking westward, the river is seen winding through a low country ; the native shipping covering its surface for the first two miles. In the distance, above Ningpo, which is twelve miles from Chinhai, a long range of hills and a prominent pagoda can be distinctly seen ; others, not so high, yet rising from clusters of trees, give to the surrounding scenery that quaint and singular beauty peculiarly Chinese. Leaving the fort, and returning towards the town by the path, I passed through a large garden attached to a temple, and planned with great taste and care ; but no attention had lately been bestowed to maintain it in order. Here were lines of thick stemmed trees, with spreading branches, crooked trunks of fir, showing traces of decay, cypress and yew, old willows drooping over artificial ponds, lakes surrounded by carved stone pillars, fanciful draw-wells, large stone fountains, grottos of worm-eaten rock, and miniature temples ; also a govern- ment school, and mandarin's yamun, with its two distin- guishing pillars and flag. A temple of Confucius, from TEMPLE OF CONFUCIUS. 219 its simplicity and elegance amidst all the decaying grandeur, had considerable charms for me. A venerable man in a black robe sat at the entrance, smoking a water pipe, or Chinese " hubble-bubble." The interior of the temple was adorned with the maxims of Con- fucius hung around in threes ; and rows of plants in neat flower-pots, the lime, the orange and lemon, the camellia and red rose, in luxuriant foliage, were ranged along the centre of the place of worship. No image of wood or stone defiled the simple structure ; only a represen- tation of the great philosopher, in academic costume with a thick white beard, holding a written tablet in one hand, hung from the wall at the upper end of the apart- ment. A table carved and polished, bearing vases of incense slowly burning, stood before, the picture ; some chairs, and handsome lamps suspended from the ceiling, completed the decorations. The priests, polite old men, took me through the grounds in the rear of the temple ; they were well cared for, and intersected by walks leading to small grottos. The orange tree occupied the most conspicuous parts, and there were flowering shrubs and plants, some in porcelain vases, others in the earth. The cypress and willow grew near to a small lake, which was crossed by a small bridge leading to a tea-house ; here for a time terminated our wanderings, the old priests having invited myself and companion to take some tea and fruits, a modest repast, which we enjoyed very much. Our friends would have been very commu- nicative had we any knowledge of the Chinese language ; 220 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. which unfortunately for foreigners is so difficult as not to be acquuecl in a few months or years : and even when acquii-ed it is serviceable for residents only. I believe that the priests of Confucius are permitted to marry, and keep their families on the establishment. They shave the sides of the head, and roll the hair on the top of the head into a coil, fastening it with a curved silver pin. They do not worship Confucius as a god, but venerate him as one of the most superior of mortal beings. His followers are literary persons who seek to follow his example, in purifying their minds by deep study and occasional thoughtful seclusion. They are not debarred from worshipping at the shrine of Buddha, or joining in the w^orship of ancestors, as do the Taouist sect. We left our hosts, and rambled through the narrow streets of the town ; which were so crowded that it was with much difficulty we forced our way towards the main thoroughfares. Fm' shops, fruit and vegetable shops ; refreshment rooms with the savour of the ever roasting fat pig predominant ; and fish plunging alive in buckets of water ; dyeing shops, where cotton cloth was undergoing various changes of colour; and pawnbrokers' shops, with a strange arrangement of wearables exposed to view, chiefly attracted our notice. Coolies jostled one anoth-er as they met with the greatest good humour, shouting out " aijah " as one would receive a fair portion of a bucket of water over his clothes; and we met women carrying gaudily dressed young Chinese strapped CHINHAI — DEFEAT OF THE CHINESE. 221 on their backs : boys most likely, as they take but little care of the girls, frequently committing them to a premature grave. We found no inducement to linger in the good town of Chinhai ; which, par excellence, is the dirtiest town I ever had the ill fortune to witness. A wall, twenty feet high, and three miles in circumference, surrounds the town, exterior to which a deep moat, communicating with the river, follows the course of the wall. Talk of the impurities of the Thames, and of the dreadful effluvia therefrom ; it is a pellucid stream of fragrant odours when compared wdth the muddy water and vile stench that surrounded the celestial town of Chinhai. On the tongue of land on which the town and citadel are situated, a fierce action of short duration was fought on October 9, 1841, when 2000 British troops and sailors landed under shelter of the guns of the squadron, and attacked the Imperial force, consisting of 6000 men, drawn up in good order. Already had the guns of the citadel been silenced, and the dense mass of Chinese, pressed on both flanks and in front, yielded, and fled whenever an open space presented itself; some betaking themselves to the river, were hurried out to sea by a strong tide and stream : it was in vain that the English commanders endeavoured to assure them that their lives would be spared ; they did not understand the meaning of " quarter," a word omitted in Chinese ethics, and more than 1500 fell from wounds, or Avere drowned. The town itself was Z2'Z VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. tenantless in a short space of time, but 500 came in and surrendered. The Manchu general, a cruel brute in the image of a man, fled to some retreat near Ningpo, and put an end to his life. A valuable collection of good brass guns became prizes to the victors, who lost no time in removing them. During low water there is a wide mud beach exposed on the south side of the river. The curlew in numbers frequent it in search of food, and occasionally fall victims to the quick aim of the sportsman. I spent one evening stalking some of these birds, and after- wards ascended the hills to look at some sheep and cows grazing. The cattle are small, reddish brown in colour, with a slight hump between the shoulders, and short curled horns ; they are not used for agricultural purposes, the demand for beef being very great since the Chinese ports have been opened to foreign inter- course. The Shanghai market is supplied with sheep from the neighbourhood of Ningpo, and Hong Kong is supplied from Shanghai. The sheep closely resemble those at the Cape of Good Hope, having broad flat tails, which become loaded with rich fat ; they have clean heads, with a thin curved nose. The mutton is very good, and the value of a sheep at Shanghai is four dollars ; at Hong Kong nearly double that sum. We frequently have had some living on board, and they thrive admirably on hay and oilcake soaked in water. Towards the foot of the hills are large flat pans arranged in rows for the evaporation of salt water ; the SALT. 223 only means of obtaining that useful condiment, salt : it is, however, very impure, from containing other crystallisable matters. The restrictive duties on salt are very heavy ; and a source of considerable increase to the revenue of the kingdom. Large quantities are smuggled into the various ports along the coast, in very swift boats, armed, and propelled by sails and oars ; some boats having as many as eighty oars. CHAPTER XVIII. I^Iassacre of pirates by islanders — Arrival at Shanghai — Thanks of officials — Erroneous statement of " Kreutz Zeitung" as to our treatment of Russian prisoners — Fire at Hong Kong — Residents of the AVest End — Robbers — Convicts — The city by night — Police — Pinghoi Bay — Preparations for On the 22nd we sailed from Chinhai, and when near the Volcano Islands, saw two pirate junks having possession of a large trading junk, which we determined to rescue from their grasp ; accordingly, our bow-guns were prepared for action, and as the pirates separated and endeavoured to escape by passing in shelter of a small islet and running into a shallow bay, the Confucius was sent in one direction to cut off their escape, whilst we pursued them in the Barracouta ; each shot, as we found, telling with precision as we fired .- one mast shook for a moment and overboard it went. The pirates made all sail, secured the tiller, put the junks before the wind, and went below ; not, however, out of danger, as we afterwards learnt, for one shot killed four men in a row : veiy much damaged they ran on shore. The wretched crew taking to the water as usual, armed parties landed in pursuit ; it was needless to pursue them very far, as they were met by the islanders, who, seeing the pirates MASSACRE OF PIRATES. 225 unarmed, armed themselves with all manner of weapons, and rushed to avenge themselves on their old foes. The struggle was of short duration, and the victors cut in pieces nearly every pirate, and carried off in triumph their dismembered limbs. The trading junk had been partly emptied of her valuable cargo, silks, white copper and furs; but the missing goods were found on board the pirates' junks and restored to the owners, who, with many thanks and prayers, made sail for the destined port of Ningpo. A few of the pirate crews remained on board the junks, and protested strongly that they were honest fishermen w^hose junks had been captured by pirates ; we doubted the veracity of their statements, as did the Government authorities, to whom w^e delivered up eleven of these marauders, who in a few days afterwards had their heads swinging in cages, exposed to public gaze on the Woosing embankment. The junks were filled with all manner of combustibles, such as stink pots, shells, loose powder and cotton ; they w^ere armed wdth guns, pistols, gingals and large guns, swords and spears, and had ]\Iandarin flags and rebel flags, to hoist as circum- stances might demand; they had also gongs, opium pipes, altars, josses, playing cards, rich dresses and common ones, bags of rice and jars of samshoo : in fact everything that one would expect to find in possession of such a lawless race. For the first time in my life I saw a Chinaman w4th whiskers and beard, which with unshorn head and unwashed pockmarked face, gave him 226 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BAKllACOUTA. a most villanous expression of countenance ; his wild restless eyes quivered as lie told lie after lie, and coward- like, he crouched as he was hurried into the boat, thinking that from us he would meet with the treatment that he would gladly deal towards one of us if in his power : a short shrift and the knife. One junk was soon in a blaze ; we towed the other to the Rugged Islands, where we anchored for the night ; and where our prize sank. Next day we sailed for Shanghai, and arrived at our former anchorage on the 24th of January. The weather was very cold and variable, with much rain and squalls, and occasional frost. The temperature varied between 21° and 49°, with N.E. and N.N.W. winds prevailing. Soon after our return, the Chief Magistrate, the " Toutai," the Prefect of the District, and some other high Manda- rins, sent on board to thank the captain, officers, and crew for their successful attack on the pirates ; accom- panying their thanks with some sheep, oranges, cases of beer, and other good things, to be distributed amongst the crew. On the 31st of January we steamed to Woosung, and in a few days afterwards sailed for Hong Kong. On the 2nd of February we anchored off the forts of Chinhai, on our voyage southwards ; the summits of the hills and islands were covered with snow. On the 7th we arrived off the River Min, and on the 10th arrived at Hong Kong, the weather damp and sultry, the temperatm^e 68° F., a marked change to the cold bracing weather at Shanghai. Here we remained at anchor, refitting for TEEATMENT OF RUSSIAN PRISONERS. 227 another northern crnise, till the 10th of February; oui- success hitherto having been very limited, in our opera- tions against the Russians. We were surprised, and much hurt, at hearing on our retm-n to Hong Kong, that there had been many complaints as to our treatment of the Russian prisoners ; well knowing that such were idle rumours, which did not emanate from the Russians themselves, who frequently expressed in warm terms their appreciation of our kind treatment of them. Some time afterwards I read in the " Times " an extract from a letter of the Times Vienna correspondent, referring to a paragraph in the "Kreuz Zeitung," in which it is stated " that letters dated Hong Kong in last December, have been received from Lieutenant Mussina Puschkin, belonging to the crew of the Diana, and who was taken prisoner by the Barracouta while on board the Bremen brig Greta. In these he complains very much of the treatment he has received from oui- country- men ; but the grounds of complaint are not mentioned. Admiral Stirling, in command of the English force in the Chinese waters, had offered to land him and his comrades at the Nicholas Portress, or to put him on board the Russian fleet in the Pacific. The Russians say he has refused this offer, as it would have involved his betraying the mouth of the Amoor, or the present position of the Russian ships. Pie states also that the English surgeons pay no attention at all to the prisoners, four of whom had died within a very short time while on their way to Hong Kong." Q 2 228 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. These statements are unfounded. All the prisoners were well treated, and every indulgence was shown them : they were treated more as friends than enemies. It was perfectly out of Sir James Stirling's power to release the prisoners without the concurrence of the French Admiral ; and I doubt very much if any one would make such a foolish request as to ask Russian officers to betray their country or be false to their flag. Regarding the treatment of the sick, there were no deaths on board the Barracouta ; and each individual placed on the sick list received the same treatment as any of our crew. We were allowed unlimited supplies of nourishing diet for the sick, such as concentrated soups, preserved meats, rice, sago, arrowroot, wine and porter, preserved potatoes, and lime juice ; and to my own knowledge, the Russian sick on board received no other diet but this from the above list : their blood had become impoverished from their previous mode of life ; but by appropriate remedies and generous diet they soon became in perfect health. A fine squadron was now at anchor in Hong Kong Bay, the crews daily exercising or taking in stores and refitting the various ships. Early on the morning of the 24th of February, a fire broke out in the west end of the town, consuming many of the wooden houses, which in this low district of the town are built without order or regularity ; the miserable inmates frequently neglect the lights, which are placed in nearly all the corners of the house : small rush lights steeped in oil, some before FIRE AT HONG KONG — A SPIRIT SHOP. 229 josses, others on small tables placed at the head of a bedstead. Very shght causes are sufficient to originate a flame in a Chinese house, as not only itself but every- thing it contains is inflammable : mats, cotton, beds, paper decorations, boxes, tables and chairs. The 59th Regiment and fire parties from the ships of war, worked energetically, pulling down houses, and working the fire engines. The flames were soon got under, but not before a large amount of property was destroyed, and four lives lost ; Chinese, burned to death. After each fire, the houses are compelled by the colonial laws to be rebuilt, according to an established plan. The houses towards the west end of Hong Kong are the resort of the lowest classes, pickpockets, thieves and gamblers. I was determined to visit this locality by day, and strolled forth from the club at about two o'clock in the afternoon, armed with a fair sized stick, and smoking a mild cheroot to ward off" more noxious vapours. I commenced my round of visits by entering a " Samshoo " or spirit shop, where jars of samshoo were arranged on shelves around a low dingy apartment, with light sufficient to make visible some squalid figures sitthig on a low bench, drink- ing this nauseous and burning fluid. In a room adjoining the shop, still darker, were some men and women seated around a table smoking and drinking ; a dense odour of the mixed fumes of samshoo and tobacco pervaded the apartment, nor did the slowly burning lamp light, which flickered from a cruse on the 230 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. table, at all mitigate the effluvia. Notwithstanding the continual drinking there was no squabbling, but much jabbering. There were debauched-looking men, whose faces, blanched and careworn, had not known the blessings of pure water for many a day, and by whom the duties of the barber had been equally neglected, as the half-grown, coarse black hair, stood on the top of their heads like bristles. Some lay gloriously drunk in a corner, their eyes congested and vacant, their faces red and swollen, hiccupping and uttering inarticulate sounds. Here were mothers of the Coolie class, suffi- ciently intoxicated to be unable to walk without tottering, though with babes at their breasts ; and old women on the verge of the grave, " Rigwoodie Hags," toothless and decrepit, were giving their last cash for one taste more of the intoxicating draught. Having seen enough of this vile hell, I entered a gambling-house ; where intense excitement was mingled with an insatiate rapacity, as the gamblers sat around a table playing cards : these were oblong slips of stiff paper, with Chinese characters and figures of fish and various animals impressed upon them. I did not under- stand the game, but I saw piles of dollars frequently change owners ; and the eyes of the lucky winner glistened as he drew towards him the precious pile. The assemblage was not composed solely of swindlers, pirates and spies, such as one would expect to meet in such establishments as the present, but also of compra- dors, servants, and tradespeople ; and I was surprised to CHINESE GAMBLING-HOUSE. 231 recognise some familiar faces amongst the group : many who did not play betted various smns on the players. It was an easy matter to distinguish the losers from the winners'; the former, restless, anxious, as his stock of cash and dollars grew lower, sought composure in a pipe. The bankrupt gambler still lingered, and watched to see others in like misfortune ; the winner, during his turn of good luck, watched each change of the game most narrowly : his quick eye followed the hands of the players opposed to him, and he twitched his small round hat from side to side, while, his good star still in the ascendant, he drew in a rich pool. How he is envied ! Keeping on the table merely sufficient for present use, he deposits the rest in a large purse, which not being sufficiently capacious for the large sum, he coolly and deliberately disrobes himself of his sash, in which he wraps and secures the overplus dollars, and then resumes the game. A more amusing scene of dice playing was brought to my notice by hearing the joyous laugh of two young spendthrifts ; who, in a distant corner of the room, stood over a small table, throwing dice into a saucer : they appeared to enjoy the game very much, though the stakes were no hig-her than a few cash. Chess is a very common game in China, and as in Western countries, requires an equal amount of undivided attention ; it is not played in the gambling-house, therefore, but in a small apartment up stairs. I witnessed two parties eagerly engaged in the intellectual game : not a word 232 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. was spoken, the only sound heard was that caused by the movement of the pieces. I also visited vile lodging- houses, dens of thieves and cut-throats, where old and yourg huddled together, without regard to age or sex. At last, feeling that I had been long enough in these dark regions, I gladly sought more light and a purer atmosphere. The Hong Kong robbers are adroit knaves, skilful adepts in their peculiar walk of life, and always on the watch to seize on the unwary. On one occasion an officer of marines, after a pleasant afternoon's ramble on the high road above the city, was resting on his walking stick enjoying the beauties of the sur- rounding mountain scenery, and moralising on things in general, when he suddenly felt the stick snatched from behind him ; he fell prostrate, and was firmly bound by two men, whilst a third carefully removed a very fine gold watch, emptied his pockets of all loose coins, such as dollars or rupees, and lest any valuables might be secreted in the waistband of the gallant officer's unmentionables, artistically ripped it open : nothing being found there, the robbers disappeared ere Mr, S had time to gather himself up from his uncomfortable position. Another audacious case of theft occurred in broad daylight in the principal street of Hong Kong. A fine portly old merchant skipper, after a long voyage, arrived with his family at Hong Kong, and landed with his wife and daughter to show them the lions of the place. With one of the fair ones on HONG KONG ROBBERS. 233 each arm, proud of his charge, he took the centre of the street and marched westward ; a most tempting bunch of seals and watch chain depending in the good old style from the old-fashioned watch pocket. The bait was too enticing to escape the vigilant eye of the keen anglers stationed at every street corner; one quickly darted out, seized the chain, drew forth the watch, and ere the old gentleman had time to exclaim, or make a step to rescue his property, the thief disappeared down the first narrow street, and was soon hid amongst the crowd of his countrymen : one Chinaman is so like another that it is a very difficult matter to identify the perpetrator of any crime. When such crimes may, with impunity, be committed during the day, one is naturally led to the conclusion that the system of pohce is very defective ; and such unfortunately is the case : it is very difficult to secure the services of good honest constables; the pay not being sufficient to recompense them for their hard duties in an unhealthy climate. Worthless characters from ships, discharged prisoners from gaol, English, Malays, Portuguese, and Chinese, an heterogeneous group, form that " useful body," the police. A brother officer of mine, with whom I was spending an evening in the club, happened to leave me for a few minutes in order to hire a boat at the wharf to take us on board the ship ; the distance from the club to the wharf, in a direct line, being about one hundred yards. The night was dark, and lamp-lights few and far between ; 234 VOYAGE OP H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. and my friend had not walked many paces ere he stumbled and fell over a man who lay stretched across the path. He was immediately seized by three ruffians who rushed out from a shady spot, and quickly abstracted a valuable watch and chain from his waistcoat pocket. It was in vain that my friend shouted out for the police ; he might as well have called on His Celestial Majesty Hienfung, who would have used just the same speed in coming to his rescue. One of the sailors of the Barracouta, however, recognised the voice of the officer, and seeing a Chinaman run from the direction of the sound, followed and secured him. He proved to be one of the culprits, but not the possessor of the valuables ; he was locked up for the night, and in a few days afterwards brought to trial. The evidence against him was sufficiently strong to convict him of partici- pation in the robbery, and he was sentenced to two years' penal servitude. Some time afterwards the indi- vidual was pointed out to me wheeling a barrow of earth, his legs being manacled. Convicts are employed on all the public works of the colony ; they bear their troubles with composure, digging and wheeling away earth for repairing roads and making terraces. The process of removing portions of rock by means of wooden wedges, is singular and worthy of remark. The part to be removed is first marked in a straight line ; in this, at intervals, a row of wedge-shaped holes are cut with iron chisels ; ordinary wooden wedges are then placed in the holes, and by simultaneous hammering, the wedges HONG KONG BY NIGHT — ■POLICE, 235 separate the mass of rock, the fresh surface of which is as smooth and even as if cut by a chisel. Another mode of removing the slab is by pouring water around the wedges, which gradually swell and effect the desired object. The process slightly varies in different pro- vinces ; and in some quarries near Hong Kong powder is extensively used in blasting granite rocks. At night Hong Kong has a pleasing appearance, lit up by thousands of coloured Chinese lanterns, as well as the usual city lamps ; lanterns are placed on fruit stalls, and before portable cooking shops, tea houses, silk marts, bazaar stalls, and the ordinary shops of the place ; then there are lamps moving in all directions, borne by coolies and servants on their various errands : these lamps being marked with the initial letters of the owners in English and Chinese, serve as a sort of passport for the bearers. Those troublesome characters, the police, are rather chary about interfering with the progress of the servants, but occasionally grow insolent and over- bearing to many peaceably disposed Chinese. I will mention one instance, of which I was an eye-witness. A brother officer and myself were returning from spending the evening in a distant part of the town, when our attention was called towards a neighbouring shop, which had the appearance of being closed for the night, by hearing sundry angry exclamations in Chinese and broken English. " Ayah ! how can ? — no can do — that no ploper pidgeon — you makee whilo — what for this bobbely ? " and much more equally intelligible jargon. 236 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. We pushed open the door, and were not a little surprised to find one of the peace preservers, a Malay policeman, standing before a counter, and endeavouring to drag away by force a parcel of tea from a China- woman : his musket was lying on the counter, to give him more freedom of action. The people of the house told us that he wished to walk off with a supply of flour, sugar, and tea, and but for our entrance would have effected his purpose. He seized his musket, and we marched him out of the house ; and lest he might use the weapon to our personal discomfort while endeavour- ing to escape, I wrested it from him. My companion securely held him, though he struggled violently to escape; in which attempt he was assisted by a sergeant of the same gallant corps, who ran towards us shouting out " What for you strikee mycomrad?" We advised civility on his part, or we should take charge of his person also. When we entered the police- court followed by the sergeant, the sub-inspector, Mr. D , was sitting disposing of cases, and we imme- diately preferred our charges. "What's this man's name ? " demanded Mr. D- . Some constable on duty answered ''John Bulger, sir." " Where's Mr. Bulger's musket ? " I produced the weapon. " Take off Mr. Bulger's cap," said Mr. D . " Now remove his belt ; now his great coat ; and now," said Mr. D , with a bland smile, producing a polished bunch of keys, "lock Mr. Bulger up for the night." THE LEMA ISLANDS. 237 Having comfortably disposed of one, I looked in vain for the other : I was sure I saw his bright eyes but a moment before, glaring savagely on me ; but he thought it prudent for the present to remove himself from further observation, to his home or some quiet corner of the street. We therefore thanked Mr. D , regretted the trouble we had given him, and wished him a very good night. On the 9th of March we left Hong Kong for a cruise amongst the neighbouring islands in search of pirates, as they had of late grown troublesome to honest fishing boats. The weather was cool and pleasant. We first visited the Lema Islands, mountains of barren rocks thrown up from the sea, the valleys alone containing any trace of verdure : soil sufficient to form a few small rice plats had been scraped together and carefully tilled. A few fishing huts were scattered here and there in sheltered nooks, with a look-out towards the sea. The Chinese are most particular in their selection of places to build upon : persons called " wind and water doctors," who are supposed to be gifted with the power of selecting propitious spots, are consulted on the occa- sion ; and no one thinks of erecting the most humble cot without first seeking the advice of the weather doctor. We were not fortunate in discovering any of the pirates in this direction ; the fishermen could give no tidings of their whereabouts, so we altered course, and sailed along the coast north-east of Hong Kong. 238 VOYAGE OF H.iLS. BAKEACOUTA. Heavy rains, with thunder and lightning, came on suddenly. We first searched Mirs Bay, steaming around it. This pretty little bay is sheltered from the north-east wind and open to the south-west ; and it is backed by a range of coarse granite rocks, presenting a burnt and barren appearance. Fishing villages occupied sheltered spots along the shore, and every place where a foot square of soil could be obtained was cultivated. We sailed by " Pedra Branca," a round islet, which is a landmark for mariners bound to Hong Kong from northern ports. On the 10th we anchored in Pinghoi Bay, a spacious fishing bay, with hundreds of fishing boats scattered on its surface, filled with men and women hard at work ; some hauling on the nets and taking in their " luck," others paying out a long line of nets. Small boats came alongside to sell fish ; and some of the fishermen, knowing the object of our visit, offered us presents of fish, which we declined accepting. A few large junks had their nets hung up to dry ; being very expensive they require much care. The only information we gathered here was that a suspicious looking lorcha had been cruising about for some days, but had not committed any outrage. The country in the immediate vicinity of the bay was low, flat, and sandy, covered with the Datura Stramonium, or thorn apple, and Solanum Indicum. Plantains and bananas grew near the villages, and a spurious species of pine apple formed hedgerows. INGHOI BAY— BISHOP OF VICTOEIA. 239 Rice fields, more extensive than those usually observed near Hong Kong, v^^ere being ploughed by water bufl'aloes. The distant hills, like all those along the coast as far as Ningpo, appeared brown and barren, with rugged outlines. Most of the fishing boats are provided with water tanks, to preserve the fish alive for market. Sir John Bo wring supposes that a tenth of the population of China are engaged in the fisheries. After cruising without success, we made a circuitous route towards Hong Kong, where we arrived on the afternoon of the 12th. Rumours were rife as to the destination of the ships of war now at anchor. Spring was advancing, and the time fast approaching when it would be necessary to start for the north, if we were to be at the breaking up of the ice in the Gulf of Tartary or the Straits of La Perouse : we were pretty sure that the Barracouta would be the first on the move. I waited on the Bishop of Victoria, the Right Rev. Dr. Smith, and informed him that it was very likely we should, in the course of the summer, visit not only Japan, but also the Corea and coast of Tartary, and that I should feel much pleasure in distributing some of the religious publications which I was aware he had caused to be printed. He gave me many copies of the Gospel of St. Luke, printed in the Japanese, Mantchu, and Mongol Tartar language. The Coreans have no difficulty in translating the Japanese characters. The bishop spoke of the great difficulties he had to 240 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. contend with in attempting to introduce the Scriptures into any of those strange lands, especially Japan. Every one was anxious to leave Hong Kong as soon as possible, as the rainy season was approaching ; indeed, we already had a slight foretaste of what we might expect : moist, sultry weather. The wind had ceased to blow steadily from the north-east ; it became variable, inclining from the south-west, and white mists and clouds overhung the mountains. The temperature was occa- sionally as high as 78° Fahr. ; but the barometer was not much influenced by the continual changes in the atmo- sphere. Articles of wearing apparel became moist and mildewed ; and swords, highly polished though they may have been, were spotted with rust in a day or so. The human constitution sympathised with the atmo- spheric change, and it became a labour even to walk a distance of two miles. CHAPTER XIX. The weather — We sail for the North — River Min — Pagoda island — Buddhism — Eain — Gutzlaff islet — Kiusiu — Volcanoes — Tang-suma-sima— Gale — Cape Yatzouda — Headlands — Scenery — Arrival at Hakodadi — The harbour — The town — Bathhouse and bathers — Japanese — Married and single — Physical appearance. At length, on the 1st of April, the signal to "pre- pare for sea " was hoisted from the mizen of the flag- ship H.M.S. Winchester, and on the following day we took the ship in tow, and steamed out of the Bay by the western entrance, passing between the Green Island and the Island of Hong Kong. We had not the slightest idea of our destination. Having steamed to the Great Llama Island, we were ordered to cast off the Winchester, and proceed on our voyage ; she sailing towards the south, whilst we pursued a course directly opposite. However ignorant we might have been as to the present voyage and its objects, we were perfectly satisfied when we saw the Victoria Mountain Peak fade from our view, and found ourselves once more on the blue waters, the gallant ship already feeling the influence of the rising waves. On the 4th we passed the " Brothers Isles," in lat. 23° 32', N., 117° 14', E. long. 242 VOYAGE OP H.M.S. BAERACOUTA. Early on the morning of the 6th of April, we entered the mouth of the River Min. Some islets stand in the approach, and, owing to many liidden rocks and shoals, the navigation is very difficult. Many native pilot boats remain cruising in the mouth, or at anchor under the lee of the islets ; and having secured the services of a pilot, we steamed up the river. Numerous batteries guard the entrance. The country on both sides of the river is bold and rocky, intersected by deep glens, down whose beds rush mountain streams, their white foam occasionally appearing beneath the shady boughs of the mulberry. Terrace over terrace on the sides of the hills are cultivated with rice and wheat. As we advance up the river, the stream winds through a most picturesque country ; sometimes rushing through a passage narrowed by high projecting rocks, which rise to the height of 1500 feet; at another time obstructed by a central woody islet, it divides into two rapid branches ; then again the bed of the river becomes wide, and the sur- rounding country low, the stream passing lazily along, depositing mud banks in its course. The batteries appeared in perfect order, the guns On their carriages looking quite smart, and the sheet-iron gates for each embrasure neatly painted red. This locality not having been visited by the British ships of war during the late war, showed no signs of the devastating effects of war. Many tombs and small temples, surrounded by trees, studded the hill-sides ; some of the former elegantly con- structed and richly carved. On the summits of rocks, soil THE RIVER MIN. 243 collected from the banks of the river is laid out in pretty gardens, where the orange tree is cultivated, and small tea-houses or miniature pagodas are constructed ; orange groves and large gardens also surround the hamlets or border the villages. The people appear more prosperous, and are better dressed, than in most of the other ports of China. One large battery was on the left bank of the river, the embrasures facing the river. From a crescent- shaped front, two side walls about twelve feet thick ran up the hill-side in terraces ; the natural strength of the place being taken advantage of. Within it there were barracks and a handsome temple, Avith thick orange trees in front. The interior of the fortification, like most of those in China, was devoid of any appearance of strength : the embrasures were closed by iron doors. The River Min is one of the most beautiful and im- portant in the Chinese empire. It is 300 miles in length, the depth varying from twenty-five fathoms to one fathom. Many shoals and mud-banks obstruct its course and interfere wdth its navigation ; but it is navigable for upwards of thirty miles above the city of Fuchan. The ]3ed of the river beyond that city is rocky, the stream at the same time being very rapid. The country through which it passes has been described by travellers as fertile and woody, backed by high mountain clifi's. According to the authority of Rev. Mr. Williams, in the " Middle Kingdom," " there are twenty -five walled towns on the banks of this river." The anchorage for ships is off* Pagoda Island, twenty- R 2 244 A^OYAGE OF H.MS. BARRACOUTA. five miles from tlie mouth of the river, and nine from the city of Fiichan. Here we arrived at one o'clock, and found H.M.S. Racehorse at anchor. Some mer- chant tea-ships were also at anchor a little above the Pagoda Island, ready to sail with valuable cargoes of rich teas — Gunpowder, Hyson, and Congou. The tea shipped from this port is supposed to be superior in quality to that of any other of the five trading ports. Pagoda Island, which takes its name from a pagoda standing on its summit, is about three miles in circumference ; it is hilly in the centre, and contains only a few straggling hamlets ; but it is well cultivated in rice, wheat, barley, and the orange. The alder and mulberry also grow in abundance ; forming, in some parts of the island, pleasant and shady groves. At the time of our visit, an American doctor had established himself in a neat little house, for the benefit of the sick in the merchant shipping. Here also were a ship- chandler's and an hotel ; the latter having a bowling- alley attached, the property of enterprising Americans. The country on both sides of the river, as seen from the island, is at first low, flat, and rather tame ; but, carefully cultivated, it gradually rises towards a high circuit of mountains : the island formins; as it were the centre of a great basin. The people on the mainland are rather hostile to strangers ; so much so, indeed, that the officers of the Kacehorse, unless in a body, were unable to pursue the game with which the province of Fuhkien abounds. PAGODA ISLAND. 245 I visited the pagoda, wliicli is unlike any I Lave hitherto examined, being built of coarse-grained granite, resembling porphyry. It is solid in the centre, and seven storeys in height ; and a narrow ledge runs around each storey. Many of the large blocks of granite of which it is composed were loose, and the ascent was very diffi- cult, from the imperfect state of the steps and parts of the ledges. It forms a conspicuous landmark, and, at a dis- tance, adds to the beauty of the scenery ; but for what purpose it was built I cannot for a moment conceive, unless erected as a memorial of thanksgiving by some emperor : unlike the hollow pagoda, there is no place for the reception of Buddha. Small pagodas are fre- quently erected over the ashes of a Buddhist priest ; they average about ten feet in height, whilst some of the large ones reach an elevation of 260 feet. They are not peculiar to China, having been introduced in the third century, and, I believe, two centuiies subsequent to the introduction of Buddhism from India. Buddhist monas- teries are generally found in the vicinity of pagodas, and the Bonzes appear to have the privilege of carving them. Placed on conspicuous positions, commanding extensive views, they are considered by the Chinese to exert a beneficial influence on the surrounding country. The shape seldom varies : they are octagonal externally, and octagonal or square internally. Many have been so strongly built as to have withstood for centuries the destructive hand of time, and still appear firm on their foundations. The celebrated Tower or Pagoda of Nan- 240 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. king, whicli was the first erected in China, has been par- tially rebuilt on three occasions; lately, however, this great curiosity has suffered so much at the hands of the rebels, as to be no longer like its former self : all the woodwork within and without has been wantonly burned, and the fire has, in a great measure, removed the vitreous appearance of the exterior. So much for the progress of the Christian warriors ! The Pagoda is symbolical cf China, as the Fan is of Japan. Sweetmeats are made in the shape of pagodas ; Chinese landscapes are never without them ; Indian ink cakes have the pagoda stamped upon them ; in their pleasure gardens they erect small pagodas, or houses resembling them, and on many of the official seals the favourite temple is inscribed. The city of Fuchan, in the province of Fuhkien, stands on the north bank of the Kiver Min, distant from Pagoda Anchorage nine miles: in lat. 26° 5', N., and 119 19', E. long. It is a first class walled city, the wall being eight miles in cii'cumference ; and very irregular, owing to the hilly tract on which part is built. Within the walls are two large pagodas. It is densely peopled ; a great part of the population being pure Mantchus, who live apart from the Chinese. Here there is much affluence and much misery, and vice in many forms, the cause of the latter. The country around is rich and fertile, and in the distance a crescentic range of hills attains an elevation of upwards of 2000 feet ; the land is cultivated to the foot of the hills, and many of the latter are covered with trees. The suburbs are very CITY OF FUCHAN. 217 extensive, reaching from the city to the river, a distance of three miles, and along both its banks. A smaU islet in the river, near to the south bank, is connected with the suburbs on either side by two bridges ; the one on the south supported by nine stone pillars, that between the north bank and the islet by forty strong pillars. The roadway of the bridges is formed of large slabs of granite, which are laid on the piers. The consulate and foreign settlement are without, and to the south of the city. Rows of junks and sampans cover the surface of the river, and line its banks. There is a very large floating population, and amongst them a considerable nmnber of robbers and pirates by profession. The natives of the ruhkien province wear the turban, which is fastened in front. They are stout, hardy-looking fellows, morose and sulky, and by no means to be trusted. Amongst the number of pirate junks captured by the Barracouta, a fair share of them were manned by desperadoes from this province. We sailed from the River Min on the 8 th. The tides are very strong, and the rise and fall very great : in spring tides the river rises to the height of eighteen feet. It has been surveyed by Mr. Richards in H.M.S. Saracen. On passing some tombs which were placed in a sequestered grove on the slope of a hill, we observed a long procession of females walking towards the grove. Their hair was decorated with wreaths of flowers ; many carried small baskets of fruits and flowers, and others merely a parasol or fan. They were about to worship at 248 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. the tombs of tlieir ancestors ; wLicli devotional exercise is observed yearly. On the 9th we experienced a heavy gale from the north-east, the barometer rising steadily to the height of the gale. On the 11th we reached Shanghai ; where we remained for a few days to take in coals and stores. We steamed from Shanghai on the morning of the 17th April; a thick misty rain precipitating black flakes from the smoke of the funnels. As we hurried down the broad stream, the flat country appeared more monotonous than ever ; the junks, as we passed, looked dreary and miserable ; their huge matting sails, satu- rated with rain, flapped heavily about, and their crews — padded heaps of mortality — regardless of the rain, sat listlessly, smoking their long pipes with as much com- posure and contentment as the Sultan in his Divan. I watched the countenance of a poor fisherman as he raised his net ; no trace of anxiety was depicted on his countenance, though not a solitary fish rewarded his labour : his face wore the same expression of content ; he shook the rain from his hat, and dipped the net for another haul. The opium receiving ships lowered their colours as we passed steaming through the thickly anchored junks and gaining the broader stream. We made our way slowly, a heavy load of coals and provisions sinking the ship very deep : and in order to economise fuel, we used but two boilers. In the evening we passed Gutzlaff Island, and steered easterly, in order to clear the southern extremity of the THE VOLCANO ISLANDS. 249 island of Iviusiu. The weather grew clearer, and the wind became favourable, blowing lightly from the north- west. On the 19th we were visited by some small birds, sparrows, yellow-hammers, and stonefinches, driven to sea by a strong wind blowing off shore ; they flew about the rigging, and hopped on the decks picking up crumbs : they were perfectly tame. The breeze freshened, sending us along towards Van Diemen's Straits, at the rate of six knots an hour, blocks of martins and swal- lows hovered around us ; some of the swallows, perfectly exhausted, allowed themselves to be caught. I secured a few of the poor little wanderers, and placed them in my cabin till morning, when they gladly regained their liberty. By the bright moonlight we could discern many roosting on the ropes and spars, ready for flight on our approaching the land. It is strange, that in every climate one meets with the swallow, on its migratory mission, the harbinger of summer, or, when stationed for a time in some locality, building its nest and bring- ing forth its young. On the 20th, the morning wet and close, we sighted two volcanoes, both pouring forth a thick yellowish smoke. They are solitary, and descend abruptly to the water. Some trees and shrubs clothe the sides near the bases ; and from rifts in the side of one of them a dense wliite smoke issues. The crater of one is rugged, large, and apparently the older of the two. No doubt these mountains possess hotsprings and minerals in abundance. They are named the Volcano Islands. Soon riterwards 250 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOOTA. we passed tlie mountainous Island of Tang-suma-sima ; in the centre of which a high peak rises to the height of 5400 feet above the surface of the sea ; the apex being high above the clouds. From the peak there is a gradual descent on both sides to fertile hills with deep valleys in- tervening, whose sides are clothed with trees, now in rich spring foliage ; the light and soft green shoots being, even at a great distance, distinguishable from the darker and heavier leaves of the evergreens. Cascades rush over the rocks, the white spray glittering in the sun ; some fall directly into the sea ; others find the bed of the valleys, fertilising in their route the gardens and terraces of the natives. The island is inhabited ; and many fishing-boats were flitting about under white square sails filled by a light breeze sufficient to curl the water, and propel them fast enough for fishing purposes. There are many shaded and sandy nooks inviting to the eye ; and the south-eastern aspect of the island has a rich warm look, where any plant or animal might flourish, the temperature changing according to the ascent. A water- hen {Gallinule) flew on board : it is the first I have seen for some years, and exactly resembled the British species, the beak tinted with red streaks, and the legs of greenish olive colour. In the evening' the weather grew hazy, the temperature 58° Fahr., and the wind from north-west. We passed South and Fatsizio Islands, but saw nothing more than the outlines. On the 21st, the wind blowing steadily from the north-west, the mercury fell rather suddenly; and, as SAILORS DURING A GALE. 251 the day waned, the wind increased in force and the ship laboured heavily, heeling over and dipping her sides in a foaming and angry sea ; the wind grew hoarse, blocks and bulkheads creaked, and the sails bellied out by the pressing breeze, which was fortunately in our favour. The watch on deck appeared in high glee ; their laughter joyous and free : a " green wave " had just washed over some of the hardy tars ; their more fortunate shipmates enjoying the joke, and their constant companion the small black pipe. Jack is always amused when he sees a mess- mate getting a slight sousing. How different his conduct when the cry rings aloud that a man has fallen overboard ; then indeed the noble and generous daring of the sailor stands pre-eminently forward. Quickly they press aft to the quarter-deck ; quicker still the boat, already manned, drops on the rising wave. " Shove off; down oars ; give way ! " sings out the cockswain : the boat's crew stoop forward to their work ; the oars bend till one expects to see them shivered in pieces ; the stem sinks deep in the wave, cutting her way as she mounts the next ; now for a moment boat and crew are hidden from view ; clouds of spray are around them : a pause, and the man is saved ! With light hearts they soon regain the ship's side, and are on board, nothing the worse for the wetting. On the 23rd the gale subsided, followed by a heavy swell : we had a favourable current from the south- east of forty miles a day, the wind north-west and north-east; on the 25th, it shifted round to the south- 252 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. east : a fair wind for us ; the clouds dark and asli- coloured : temperature 30° lower than it was three days since, when the mercury stood at 74° Fahr, The night of the 2()th was wet and stormy. We were under easy sail, with fair winds. At daylight on the 27th we saw the Cape Yatzouda, and further still in the distance. Cape Nanibu, at the entrance to the Straits of Sangar. The coast-line between the two capes recedes, and is very low, forming a bay. Approach- ing Cape Nambu it rises to 1265 feet high, descending towards the Cape by a gentle slope. In this bay there is good anchorage. Cape Nambu is in lat. 41° 2G' 30", N., long. 141° 29' 20", E. The land near it is about seventy feet high, and level for a mile, after which it rises with a regular swell to the height of 1263 feet. Off the Cape, at the distance of three cables, there is a white rock seventy feet high, and a quarter of a cable in diameter. There is also another rock, rather larger, two miles within the Cape, at a cable's length from the shore. The coast within four miles of the Cape is studded with rocks of minor dimensions, and the ground is altogether foul.* The morning was cold and wet ; the distant hills and more neighbouiing lowlands, with white streaks of snow, presented a wintry aspect. The summits of tlie moun- tains were covered with snow ; lower down it was fast dissolving, whilst nearer the sea there Avas scarcely a * Richards' Survey. CAPE NAMBU — STEAITS OF SANGAR. • 253 trace of it ; but tlie long plains of pasture land looked brown and wintry, and the trees which studded the sides of the hills were leafless, save a few dark green pines which stood stately and erect. A ridge of rocks runs out from the land at the entrance to the Strait ; the two outermost ones were covered with seals and sea- cows reclining at their ease. Having sounded Cape Nambu, we entered the Sangar Straits. Keeping close to the southern shore, many fishing villages came into view, sheltered in some aspects from the wintry wind. The houses were humble in appearance, low, and built of wood, with shingle roofs. As yet there were but slight symptoms of the coming spring, and the mountain rivulets looked cold. Some of the neighbouring hills had the barren and rocky aspect of the coast of China, but most of them were covered with, rich turf; and in the valleys and shady places were plantations, which, from their regularity of form, must have been planted by the natives. Divers, duck, teal, and sea-gull were flying in diff'erent directions, somiC struggling against a stiff breeze, others settling on the tops of the waves and floating with the current. Cape Esanne, the northern and eastern extremity of the Cape, was distinctly visible ; a bluff and high cliff, backed by a volcano, a very conspicuous object, 1935 feet in height : a thin white smoke issued from the summit. The Cape is situated in lat. 41° 28' 10" N., and long. 141° 12' 30", E. We steered for Cape Toriwiiaki, and when off Low Island, steamed in 254 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. a north-westerly direction for Hakodadi Bay : the mag- netic bearings, from Low Island to Hakodadi, N. 38 miles, W. 14^ miles. The day grew bright and fine as we approached the mouth or entrance of this beautiful and spacious bay, and rounded the bluff headland of Hakodadi. The conical peak above it is 1131 feet above the sea level. Between this head and Mussel Point, the western extremity of the entrance, the distance is nearly five miles. In this Bay the largest fleet that ever left the shores of Britain might find a safe anchorage. It lies on the north side of the Straits of Sangar, and nearly midway between Cape Nambu and the city of Matsmai. It bears N. W. by W. ^ W., distant about forty miles, and is about five miles deep, and nearly the same width at the entrance. Mr. Richards, in his survey, gives the following direc- tions for entering the bay : — - " Rounding the promontory of Hakodadi, and giving it a berth of a mile to avoid the calms under the high land, steer for the sharp peak of Komaga-daki, bearing about north, until the east peak of the Saddle bearing about N.E. by N., opens to the westward of the round knob on the side of the mountains ; then haul up to the northward and eastward, keeping them open, until the centre of the sandhills on the isthmus bears S.E. by E. f E. (which may be recognised by the dark knolls upon them). This will clear a spit which makes out from the western point of the town in a N.N. westerly BAY AND TOWN OF IIAKODADI. 255 direction two-tliirds of a mile ; tlien bring the sand- hills a point on the port bow, and stand in until the western point of the town bears S.W. -^ W., when you will have the best berth, with 5^ or 6 fathoms water. If it is desirable to get nearer in, haul up a little to the eastward of the south, for the low rocky peak which will be just visible over the sloping ridge to the southward and eastward to the town. A vessel of moderate draught may approach within a quarter of a mile of Tsuki point, where there is a building-yard for junks. This portion of the harbour is generally crowded with vessels of this description. Should the wind fail before reaching the harbour, there is a good anchorage in the outer roads in from 25 to 10 fathoms." We anchored between the Ramida Creek and Custom House ; and found H.M.S. Sj/bille and Fique at anchor. The w^eather was unsettled ; wind variable, and a ten- dency to fall in the barometer : the temperature varying between 46° and 60° Pahr. The harbour, which is a well sheltered nook, is formed by a projecting headland and a narrow isthmus connecting it with the mainland : it is in the south-eastern extremity of the bay. Hakodadi peak stands on this projecting headland. The town runs parallel to the beach. It consists of rows of broad streets rising one above the other in parallel lines ; these com- municate with one another by side streets ; the main street is two miles in length, taking the course of the harbour and tending towards the isthmus. My first examination of the town was very superficial, and the least said on 256 VOYAGE OF II.M.S. BAERACOUTA. the subject here the better, as my later impressions were more favourable than the first on landing. With an agreeable companion from the Pique I landed at the Custom House, a neat little structure, where we were received by a number of officers, who were obtrusively civil : one half of their politeness would have satisfied us, as it had a tendency to restrict the liberty of our movements. We first directed our steps towards the Bath House, having heard much of this strange establishment. It is situate in a narrow street running from the main street, and at right angles to it, a short distance from the Custom House. We entered a low porch, first putting aside a hanging screening of matting, and passed into a spacious room divided into three compartments. On the right was a dark division, with benches around for resting or smoking upon. A youth sat upon a small table with a cash box before him for the receipt of Bath money ; the price for each bath being five copper cash. On the left the apart- ment retired far back, the floor gradually inclining down- wards for about six feet, and again ascending towards a screen ; behind which, some good people were enjoying the luxury of a warm bath. A channel passes through the room to carry off" the water. Near the screened apartment, but exposed to public view, was a broad and shallow bath of cold water in the angle of the double inclined floor. Here men, women, and children squatted down, on issuing from the hot bath, and splashed the cold water over their bodies ; they use it unsparingly. BATH-HOUSES AND BATHERS. 257 They were perfectly naked, and appeared ruddy and refreshed. Nothmg abashed by the presence of strangers, the work is carried on vigorously ; and the exhibition is not looked upon by the Japanese as being at all in- delicate : it may be from an Adam and Eve like sini- pKcity on their part. We, with our artificial habits and customs, are astonished at the primeval simplicity of the Japanese, and would imagine that such exposures would have a demoralising influence on the young of both sexes. The bath is a capital studio for artists and anatomists, admirers of faultless forms or muscular development, and affords a good opportunity of inspecting the stature, natural proportions, and beauty of both sexes. On leaving the baths, they scrub themselves dry with coarse towels, then dress, and leave the establishment, or retire to a small room, where they can be provided with a refreshing cup of tea. I may here make some remarks on the physical appearance of the Japanese as observed in the bath-house and throughout the town. In stature, the women are smaller than the generality of European females, but taller than the Chinese. Unlike the latter, their feet and hips are unrestrained and allowed to assume their just proportions. Their hair is jet black, long, and artistically dressed, being brushed backward from the temples and forehead, and gathered in a raised knot. The skin of the better classes is fair ; especially that of the face, which is very clear, and in most of the young women tinged with a healthful blush. Up to this time I had not seen many pretty 258 YOYAGE OF H.M.S. BAERACOUTA. girls ; tlie nose of the natives of Yezo not being so aqui- line, or well defined as that of the fair ladies of Nagasaki. Their teeth are even, perfect, and snow white; excepting those of the married women, who immediately after their marriage stain the teeth black with a preparation of iron : this process completely alters and disfigures their agreeable features. The bust of the young female is plump and well formed, the hips are full and dehcately rounded; the carriage erect and graceful. Industrious and cleanly, their kitchens and fire-places are models of housewifery: I have watched them preparing their meals, and setting them before their families with scrupulous care and neat- ness Avorthy of the good wives of Old England. They are not so shy and reserved before strangers as the Chinese ; should you enter a house and sit down on the elevated floor, the good wife, or one of the daughters would approach and offer a cup of tea {Tcha), poured from a bright brass or porcelain tea-pot {To-sJiin). I cannot admire the dress of the Japanese women : it has neither utility or grace to recommend it. A tight skirt of blue cotton, of the same width from the hips to the feet, forms the lower part of the dress, over this a loose jacket of the same material is loosely Avorn across the chest, but confined at the waist by a narrow sash ; the sleeves of the jacket are wide, and descend to the wrist. Straw sandals, or wooden clogs, sometimes with, oftener without socks, are their substitutes for shoes. I cannot as yet say whether the ladies dress PHYSICAL ArrEARANCE OF THE JAPANESE. 259 as I describe, having seen but peasants and shopkeepers' wives. The men are of fair average height, robust and muscular, of a healthy bronzed complexion, but rather florid ; being in a latitude in which the effects of the short summer's sun is counterbalanced by a temperate spring and autumn, and by a severe though healthful winter. The featiu-es are rather coarse : the eyes resembling the Chinese, small and oblique, prominent high cheek bones, the nose broad, nostrils distended; the mouth is well shaped, with white and regular teeth, which they take much pains to keep in order, using the frayed end of a piece of bamboo as a tooth brush. They have no beards, but slight moustachios, which I have seen a military officer pluck out by the roots ; whether from national custom or a personal whim, I know not. Some possess fine dark arched eyebrows, and bright black eyes, with white conjunctivae. Amongst the officials, I have seen none with very well-formed features; though the nose is straight or slightly aquiline, and thin, and they have bright intel- lectual countenances. There is a kindliness of manner, and an easy natural grace peculiar to the Japanese which is quite winning ; they are hospitable without expecting or receiving any retm'u : the Japanese thinking that the recipient is the obliging party concerned. These charac- teristic traits are worthy of observation in a race secluded from the world, from Christianity, or any other refining influence known to us. s 2 CHAPTER XX. Japanese anxiety to learn English— Excursion— Fort— Teaching the "young idea how to shoot" — Houses — The interior — Mountains— Capes Tsjuka and Nadiejda— Gulf of Tartary— Suflfrein Bay— Beechy Head— Tully Island — Greek Cross — Ghiliacks — Russian frigate Pallas — Barracouta harbour — Forests — Russian settlement — Batteries — Fortescue island. There is a general anxiety amongst all the Japanese I have seen to learn the English language, and to teach their own. They possess a great facility of acquiring languages, and as each word is learned, they study the pronunciation, till a perfect knowledge of the word and its meaning is acquired, and laid up in the store-house of memory ready for use. When they can construct a phrase, they are much pleased, and produce it with much pride on all suitable occasions. I know one man who speaks Dutch, English, and Erench, in addition to his own tongue. The bay of Hakodadi is protected from the east wind by a prominent range of hills ; the isthmus connecting which with the mainland is a mile and a half long, and narrow : it is a marsh or bog on a shingle base. Part of the town is built on the side facing the harbour ; the other is for pasture, and fronts the open straits : here are large sandhills. On either side is a strand shelving very AN EXCURSION. 261 gradually ; and there is a continual surf or rollers on the exposed shore. May 1st. G , of the Pique, and myself took our guns, and landed near the Kamida Creek, more for a ramble through the country than 'in pursuit of game, neither of us being first-rate shots. We struck into an extensive marsh, very wet, turfy, and similar to marshes in England and Ireland ; where we met with but one brace of ducks. Drains cut in the marsh were filled with reddish water, the subsoil of the marsh was formed of coarse shingle. Sedge, dwarf willows, alder, arums and reeds grew in abundance. Having succeeded in getting our feet and legs tolerably wet, we got out of the marsh and entered on a wide moorland, dry and turfy, affording good pasturage for horses, many of the latter browsing at their ease. One part was covered with stunted shrubs, and dry and withered ferns ; but the moor was such an one that any horseman would take delight in galloping over. The ground, gently undulating, formed beds for many a small stream, on the banks of which reeds and rushes thickly grew, forming shelter for game.- Large snipe were here in abundance, unlike in plumage to any others I have seen : they rise to a great height, and hover on the wing like the lark, but uttering most dis- cordant screeches. We passed a large Japanese fort, newly erected. It consisted of a strong square earthwork, surrounded by a deep moat ; four gates, with protecting outworks, were placed at different parts of the fort ; and a stockade 262 VOYAGE OF II.M.S. BAERACOUTA. surrounded the summit. Some buildings were erected within the fort to suit as barracks. It appears to have been built very lately, and I think would soon yield before a few field-pieces and a hundred men. As yet no guns have been mounted, though there are many ready to be removed from the town. Passing the fort, we soon reached an extensive tract of country cultivated in fields ; the soil rich, black, and deep. The snow had not yet disappeared from the hills, and the spring promised to be late. The husbandmen were turning over the soil with spades, forming it into narrow straight ridges. The spade is a curious wedge- shaped contrivance, formed of wood tipped with iron, clumsy and heavy ; resembling the Irish " Pack," with the exception of the place for the foot being at the back of the instrument instead of the side. The peasantry appear to be a healthy and contented race. As we sat down by the sheltered side of a shed to enjoy a cheroot, and watch a flock of wild geese that were feeding near, we were joined by a peasant who had been at work, but whose curiosity overcame his agricultm-al zeal. Putting aside his spade he sat beside us, anxiously learn- ing an odd word of English. " Inglese, yes ! Coat, yes, coat ! Pipe ! yes, pipe ! " Having repeated the mono- syllables a few times, and satisfied himself of the pro- nunciation, he went on his way rejoicing. A swift and winding river flowed at our feet, depositing large mounds of sand in its course. On its banks the single anemone, blue and white, grew in abundance : this JAPANESE HOUSES. 2G3 pretty spring flower appeared the earliest in bloom in this region. We passed through some villages, and found the people civil and polite, and in general very cleanly. We got some of the youngsters together, and allowed them to practise discharging the guns ; which greatly pleased them, though they were at first very timid. We had no difficulty in procuring water {Mitzu), or tea {Tcha), when we felt thirsty. Most of the houses have a porch in front for an entrance ; passing through which one enters the largest apartment in the dwelling, having in the centre an elevated floor of polished deal, on which the inmates and guests take their food, or sit around a wood fire in the centre of, and on a level with, the elevated floor. A bed of fine sand surrounds the fire, to catch the sparks and prevent the floor from burning ; and a kettle, suspended by a hook from the rafters, usually hangs over the fire : the kettle is frequently of bronze, with curiously raised figures, or of cast-iron, figured and well polished. All the cooking utensils are very clean, and the drinking cups, or bowls of lacquered ware, are arranged in neat order ready for use. No one thinks of sitting on the floor without first removing their sandals or Slogs, and depositing them on the low clay floor, which surrounds the central one. A small screened apartment is devoted to prayer, or some other religious ceremonies. The dresses of the women seemed very inconvenient, as they trudged from place to place, or attempted to 204 YOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. sit down. They did not object to take a modicum of brandy and Avater, and they rather liked a mild liabana or manilla cigar. During our day's ramble we met with some pretty girls, modest and retiring. We had a fine view of the Saddle Mountain, whose peak is a most distinct and prominent cone, 3169 feet above the level of the sea. To the southward and eastward of this, is the flat cone mountain, of volcanic origin ; the truncated cone is 2675 feet, and a peak near it 2421 feet above the level of the sea. The outlines of the mountains were sharply defined against a deep blue sky, in the clear evening light. The air was keen, and grew colder as we passed some sheltered spots which the sun's rays could not reach, and where the snow still lingered. Crossing a large plain, elevated about three hundred feet above the level of the straits and gradually decreasing towards the bay, we found a very good road which led by the Kamida Creek to the beach. There we found a boat ready to take us on board the Pique; where, with appetites requiring no excitants, we enjoyed a social dinner, in the society of agreeable companions, entertaining one another with various views and opinions of Japan and the Japanese. On Sunday morning the 4th of May, we left Hako- dadi, taking in tow" the frigates Stjhille and Pique ; "the highlands were still covered with snow, but the lowlands were assuming a bright green colour. Saihng westward, we passed many hamlets, not so clean in appearance as those in the vicinity of Hakodadi. The wind being CAPES TSJUKA AND NADIEJDA. 2G5 adverse, we came to anchor in a delightful mdentation of the coast ; a long and low tract of land running between two peaks : one to the east, Cape Tsjuka, 2823 feet high ; the other westward and to the south, Cape Nadiejda, 1548 feet above the level of the sea. The bases of the peaks are clothed with pines and shrubs, the land gradually inclining inland towards deep valleys ; and approaching Cape Nadiejda, the coast line becomes bold and rocky ; two w^aterfalls improving the scenery. Next day we took the ships in tow, and having passed the City of Matsmae, soon cleared the Straits, and altered course to the north-west. We spoke a whaler ; the only news derived from her was that the Straits of La Perouse were frozen across, eight days since. The wind being light and variable and but slightly in our favour, we made but slow progress. The frigates now under sail, all canvas spread, soon distanced the Barracoida, which, with funnels down and all sail set, struggled to keep near the handsome frigates as they tried their respective powers of sailing. On the 7th, we passed the Strait of La Perouse, and sighted the Island of ]\Ionneron covered with snow. As we entered the Gulf of Tartary, the temperature of the sea water was 34 Pahr., the wind cold and piercing. Our position at noon was lat. 44° 22' N., long. 139° 51' E. \ The 9th was cold and clear, with a distant and well defined horizon, the sea blue and rippling. The pro- minent mountain of Spenberg, on the Island of Seghalien, and the bold coast on either side of it were visible. 26G VOYAGE OP H.M.S. BAEEACOUTA. Before sunset we sighted the coast of Tartary, though by the charts it ought to have been 90 miles distant. Our position at noon, lat. 47° OG' N., long. 140° 11' E. Captain Fortescue now communicated with the Com- modore, and on his return on board we steamed towards the coast of Tartary in search of a harbour for the ships. At daylight on the following morning we were close to the shore, temperature 40° Tahr., a head wind against us, accompanied by a thick shower of sleet. The coast is black and rather low, hilly in the background, and thickly wooded with fir-trees and birch, both apparently stunted : the tops of the hills were thickly covered with snow. We anchored in Suffrein Bay ; it is an exposed anchorage, affording so little shelter that on the approach of a slight snow- storm, we were obliged to weigh anchor and put to sea: the shore shelves towards a slnngle beach, over which the waves rolled. Far as the eye can reach in a northerly direction an extensive forest is presented to the view. We sailed at our ease during the night, and on the following morning resumed our course north- ward, the appearance of the coast gradually changing. Many striking headlands meet the view ; high mountains appear in the distance covered with snow ; and forests of pine cover the earth to the border of the shore, which is here hilly and abrupt. The branches of the trees were covered with snow, which fell thick and fast. Between the hills, wide valleys wind and stretch far backwards, diversifying this wild and primitive scenery. BEECHY HEAD — TULLY ISLAND. 2G7 We steered for the " Blondelas Islands ; " a headland in the distance so like Beechy Head, that Mr. Freeman in his snrvey of the coast of Tartary named it Beechy Head. The coast in this latitude 49° N. is very rocky and abrupt, and in parts undermined; vast masses of rocks falling from time to time, form rocky beaches ; still the one long forest of pine and birch follows the coast line. A conical mountain, distant about fifty miles, is distinctly visible, its snow white summit towering above the clouds. The temperature during the 10th ranged between 32° and 38°, the wind variable from the south-east. In vain we sought the Blondelas ; we were inclined to think that they existed but in the minds of former navigators. On the 11th, the day being stormy, with frequent falls of snow, we kept close along the coast ; a long and low forest land stretching westwards presented itself to our view, and in the distance a small wooded islet situated as if in the mouth of a river. Captain Fortescue determined to inspect this place, and seek for a secure anchorage. We steered westward, and passing the island now named " Tully Island," entered a deeply indented and sheltered bay, and anchored in nine fathoms of water. Before us lay a thick forest with a low shore, on which some native huts were visible ; the water was covered with wild fowl, and large patches of ice drifted about : the shore was inaccessible for boats, owing to the ice which was loosely connected with it. In every direction 2G8 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. from our anchorage we could see fine inlets or harbours almost surrounded by woods ; the greater part of these inlets were frozen over. I went to the margin of the ice with Lieutenant Bush, and crossing the loose ice soon reached the shore. A Greek Cross planted on a rising ground or hillock, gave evidence of the presence of Russians at no distant date. We visited some of the huts ■ — miserable constructions — low, and slanting; from a ridge pole about six feet in height, ribs of fir-wood reached the earth, and on these bark of birch and fir were placed for covering : the entrance was a mere opening in the end of the hut, covered by the skin of some animal. Within, the family squatted around a wood fire, the acrid smoke from which caused the tears to come rather plentifully. On the ground, the young branches of fir were spread to form beds, and on these, skins of foxes, dogs, bears, and stags were spread, to form coverings, as the weather demanded, by night or day. The natives are " GhiHacks," a nomadic race, dwelling on the coast of Tartary, Siberia, as far as Ayan, and the north-western extremity of Seghalien. They are low in stature, stout, and rather broad in proportion to their height ; shape of the head round ; cheek bones pro- minent ; eyes oblique ; well defined eyebrows, more arched than those of the Chinese ; hair coarse, black and bound into a tail ; hands small and extremely delicate, with well shaped nails ; complexion fair and ruddy ; with well cut lips and even teeth ; scanty moustache ; and occasionally one meets with a Ghiliack having a THE GHILTACKS, 269 coarse black beard. Tliey wear very large ear-rings, each shaped as a circle with a small circular appendage. The women are small, and if one might judge from the number of children in each hut, very prolific ; their fea- tures broad, complexion sallow, with small eyes ; and there is no trace of animation in their countenances, as they sit nursing their babes or sewing on their dress some newly acquired bauble. They are a little vain of personal appearance ; necklaces and bracelets of beads are called into requisition to adorn their necks and arms ; whilst nose and ear-rings of brass, silver, or copper, depend as ornaments from the respective organs. A long loose robe of blue cotton or deer-skin, overlapping the chest and confined around the Avaist by a girdle, reaches to the feet, on which moccasins of birch bark are worn ; the hem of the long garment being studded with Mantchu coins and small white shells. The dress of the male sex is of a rough material, made from coarse cotton cloth, or failing this, of dog or deer-skin ; a loose coat of either material reaches to the knees, fastened across the chest and bound round the waist by a girdle, which also confines a knife, pipe, and tobacco pouch ; breeches of skin of deer, with shoes and leggings of birch bark, the latter bound round by strings of raw hide, a fur ruff around the neck, and a head-dress of the same warm substance, complete the attire. The diet of this people appeared to consist of fish and oil ; a large quantity of flat fish was hung up to dry on stakes without the huts, and seal-oil in the stomach of 270 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BAERACOUTA.' some animal was suspended from the same stakes. Some sleigh dogs tied to the yomig stems of trees, closely resembled those of Kamstchatka, but a little smaller ; the eyes having a curious appearance from the fact of the irides being white, the pupil alone black, I do not know whether this peculiarity may be attributed to the effect of snow blink, or from natural causes. May 12. — This morning at four o'clock, some of the boats went to sound the harbours adjacent to our anchorage. A sharp frost had formed a pellicle of ice around the ships during the night : at midnight the tem- perature was down to 20 Falir. Two of the surveying officers returned at 9 a.m., with an account of the dis- covery of a Russian settlement and the wreck of the Russian frigate Pallas. Having sounded as far as the ice would permit, they left the boats and traversed a large field of ice ; when turning a prominent rocky point they suddenly came in view of tw^o Russian batteries, some log-houses, and a burial-place. The village being deserted, they made a superficial examination, and found traces of a late departure. One battery was pierced for ten, the other for eight guns ; and each held a com- manding position. Some casks in one of the log-houses were marked with the British Government broad arrow '/^ . Sugar 33G lbs., 1852 : they also found a lime-juice bottle with the same mark and V. R. A compass plate of lead was found beneath a flag-staff with an inscription upon it in Russian letters, AIIP 12. 1855 POAA. On their return they discovered the 3 BAREACOUTA HARBOUR. 271 wreck of a large ship which had been recently burned to the edge of the ice ; the ropes and spars were lying scattered about. Around the wreck, the ice was very strong and covered with snow, whilst over the deck it was smooth, dark, and thin, as if the ice had been lately formed. Every one on board was of opinion that the wreck was that of the frigate T alias, 50, which refitted at Portsmouth in 1852. The day was very cold, the wind blowing fresh, with sleet ; temperature of air and water alike 32° Eahr. : very low for sea water, but at present attributable to the dissolving ice, large portions of which drifted out to sea during the day. The crew caught some very good fish ; a small species of cod, firm and sweet, and plaice : the latter rather soft and tasteless. We steamed out of the bay in the afternoon bound for Point Lamanon, on the west coast of Seghalien, in search of the Commodore, and sighted the point before night. May 13. — During the past night we fell in with the Commodore in 11. M.S. Sybille, and returned towards the New Bay, which is now called " Barracouta Har- bour." Owing to the strength of the current, or uncertain observations of the headlands, we were twenty-six miles to the south of our destination at noon. With wind and current against us we took the Sybille in tow, and reached our former anchorage by 9 p.m. The night was clear and cold, and the moon being up, it was more of a prolonged twilight than real night. On passing some rocks near Tronson Point we saw a number of sea-lions gamboling about ; they were of a pale brown colour. 273 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BAREACOUTA. some having thick shaggy manes. As we entered the bay some of the natives came off in small canoes to see us, and to barter their fish for tobacco, biscuit, or buttons. They paddled about, but we could not induce them to scale the ship's side and come on board. We procured a safe anchorage for the Si/hille, and took up our former position, much pleased with our discovery. A sharp frost, with a keen bracing wind, excited in many of the officers an eager desire for exercise and excitement ; accordingly a party with guns and provi- sions for the day, manned a cutter and pulled towards the deserted settlement. There were thick forests on either side ; we landed on the side on which the houses were built, and walked along the margin of a forest, where the trees were so thickly planted as to render the passage extremely difficult : withered pines in their fall drag down with them their young and tender neigh- bours ; and as they fall so they lie, till between the eflPects of moisture and time they become converted into a soft and rich turf, for the nutriment and growth of others. Along the shore were large masses of rock, thrown toge- ther in strange disorder ; some black, others red and porous, resembling volcanic scoriae. These from time to time become undermined and drop into the water, carrying with them any trees growing upon or near them. We passed a prominent rock, or masses of rocks, in symmetrical blocks ; the lower strata of dark brown colour, igneous ; the upper strata of the same nature but porous, Avith occasional veins of red iron stone ; large RUSSIAN SETTLEMENT. 273 boulders of the same stone lay at the base of tlie rock : some of the rocks appeared to me to be basaltic. We now crossed a high hill and arrived at the first battery ; before us an extensive sheet of ice stretched away for miles in the windings of the woods : we expect when the season is more advanced, to find that this sheet of water is the mouth of a river. We examined the huts and found them strongly though roughly put together, with a view to durability. None others can exceed the Russians in their ready power of making a home for themselves upon the shortest notice : fir-trees cut down from the forest, trimmed and smoothed with the axe, and laid upon one another in horizontal rows — the side log being dovetailed into the end one — form the four walls ; moss forced in between the logs rendering the seams air-tight and the hut comfortable. Some of the houses were more tastefully put together, and provided with window sashes, and had porches in front of them formed from the bulkheads of the wrecked frigate. Each dwelling-room was provided with a rudely constructed stove — a source of great comfort in this trying and rigo- rous climate. As might be expected, all the houses were in a state of disorder, consequent upon a hurried depar- ture. The settlement was built upon a rising ground cleared of wood, and supplied with water from two arti- ficial wells ; large stacks of wood, split and cut ready for burning, were piled at convenient distances from the houses. A bakehouse and storehouse were attached to the settlement ; a small rivulet passing through the former. 274 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. An earth-work battery for eight guns protected the dvvelhngs ; this was flanked by another at the distance of Ibm* hundred yards, commanding the entrance of the liarbour in which lay the Fallas. In a sheltered grove of fir, larch and birch, on an eminence over- looking the harbour, reposed the remains of many Russians, Avho, far away from home and friends, died from the wasting diseases of the climate, such as marsh fevers. On the Greek crosses which were placed over the graves, the years '54 and '55 were painted with the names of the deceased. A valley and narrow stream separates this cemetery from a few graves of Finlanders : three large plain crosses marked their place of repose. At first there was some doubt as to whether the wreck was that of the Aurora or Pallas. We found the figure- head, a large gilded double-headed eagle ; and some persons recollected having seen a similar figure-head on the Pallas when at Portsmouth in December, 1852. The stern-post of the wreck was larger than that of either of the frigates at anchor ; the length of the hull from stem to stern was 200 feet ; part of the rigging which escaped the fire was said, by competent persons, to be that of a 50-gun frigate. We well knew that she was in this region of the globe ; and some persons of doubtful veracity had seen the Pallas in the Amoor : tlie Russian officers never said so. In the autumn and Avinter of '54 the other Russian frigates w^ere at Petropolovski : except the Biana which was off" the Coast of Japan, and afterwards destroyed by earthquake. In '55 the Russian ships FORTESCUE ISLAND. 275 were seen by Commodore Elliott's squadron in Do Castries Bay ; still the FaUas remained concealed and forgotten, till discovered by us in this secret and com- modious bay, or series of bays : and here was all that remained of the long lost ship. After spending a few hours in rambling ashore, we crossed the ice and regained our boat. In the evening I took advantage of the kindness of Mr. Preeman, the master, by taking a passage in his boat to Fortescue Island, whither he went to take bearings and make observations. This rocky little islet did not afford many subjects for observation : it was thickly w^ooded wdth juniper, birch, and fir ; the surface being strewed in every direction with fallen trees in all stages of decomposition : some trees, twelve or fourteen inches in diameter, could be pressed through with the foot in walking; affording rich beds for the growth of mosses of various species, some of great beauty and dehcacy. The islet consists of a mass of volcanic rocks irregularly thrown together ; having in parts great rents or chasms, with land-slips as if from earthquakes : the trees slope over the chasms at very acute angles. Here we found the commencement of a rude hut on elevated poles; probably intended for a look-out house. Some mis- chievous imps set fire to the settlement in the course of the evening, and before morning, there was not a vestige of a hut to be seen. On the evening of the 15th I Avent on shore to pay another visit to the natives, and took some time in T 2 276 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. examining their condition, which was truly miserable. I saw one child about four years of age, the palate of whose mouth was dreadfully swollen and ulcerated ; yet here was no remedy, unless from the kind hand of nature : who on this occasion had sadly neglected her charge. I promised to return and treat this child. The next was a case of rheumatism in an old man almost crippled from disease ; another had scrofulous abscess in the shoulder; and a new-born infant was suffering from an aphthous disease known by the name of " thrush : " there was also a case of ophthalmia in a middle-aged man. Here were five cases of disease in a population of thirty, including men, women, and children ; besides several more or less afflicted with tender eyes, from wood-smoke. I attribute so much disease to the sameness of diet (the flat fish taken at this season were soft and unhealthy), and the prox- imity to large and dense forests, with marshy soil, and want of a free circulation of air. In my frequent visits I endeavoured to alleviate their suff'erings by all the means in my power. ♦ CHAPTER XXI. Natives fishing — Cape Lesseps — Appearance of Coast — Destitution Bay — Wild fowl — Natives — Worsliip — Sickness — De Castries Bay — The Amoor important to Russia — Melting of the Ice— Through the Woods— Graves of Fialanders — Her Majesty's Birthday — Capercailzie — Natural history — Return to Japan — French frigates Virginie and Constantine — Enter Bay of Hakodadi. The manner in which the natives capture fish, was to me very amusing. Four canoes put off a Uttle distance from the shore, each having one man with paddle and spear ; and on reaching the intended distance, they approximated the sides of the canoes to within three feet of each other ; their position being steadied by crossing the paddles. Each man leaned over the interspace with his spear poised and partially dipped, watching the fish until fairly within aim, when with a short and sharp stroke of the spear, he struck and hauled up the prize : they hauled up a good number of fish in a short space of time. The bottom of the fishing ground was covered with long coarse sedge. The canoes are small, few of them capable of holding more than one person ; and they are generally made from the stem of a tree, by scooping and burning out the centre. They are sharp at both ends, and propelled by a double- 278 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BAERACOUTA. blacled paddle. It is impossible to stand upright in one of tliem for a moment without the frail bark cap- sizing, unless it is close alongside another one ; then one person may stand upright whilst another steadies the canoe. Early on the morning of the 16th we steamed out of Barracouta Bay for the next rendezvous, Cape Monte. We kept close to the coast, occasionally taking soundings, whilst the surveying officers were taking various bearings. The coast assumes a bolder aspect as we proceed north- wards. Before approaching Cape Lesseps there is a very wide and low forest extending for miles westward, backed by a high range of mountains. Some native huts are visible along the coast. Cape Lesseps is a very bluff headland, bleak and rugged, with many traces of continual disintegration. We passed an extensive forest on a high and bold coast ; the trees appeared more stunted, the birch and alder predominating. The coast is in some places steep and perpendicular, presenting to the eye of a geologist a varied and interesting appear- ance : the base, dark grey basaltic rocks in vertical pillars ; and above this red strata capped by yellow sand- stone in inclined planes. Some of the strata in parts are horizontal or wavy ; deep black mould supports the trees. There are abrupt valleys in the range of rocks, through which small streams roll down to the gulf. A chain of mountains, covered with snow, is visible in the distance, inclining to the north. Towards evening we saw opening a wide and deep bay, DESTITUTION BAY. 279 which, from the state of misery and wretchedness observed amongst the natives, was named " Destitution Bay." This bay affords a safe anchorage, being pro- tected on the north and south by two prominent liead- Lands ; inland it is closed by a shelving beach, on which are scattered some Tartar huts. Abroad bank, frino-ed with coarse sedge, separates the bay from a large lagoon, which at this season was frozen over : little islets formed sheltering places for wild fowl, which abound in this neighbourhood. From the lake, a deep wood gradually ascends, winding a little to the south, and descending to a pretty valley ; from which it again rises and bends round to the sea-coast, encircling the lake, into which enters a broad stream of fresh water : here were swans, duck, and teal, and other birds on the fresh stream. A couple of our sportsmen, in their search for game, had discovered a weak place, and one went down to his shoulders with a splash, and from his cool position succeeded in bringing down a fine duck ; the other, more cautious, kept near the islet, and was rather suc- cessful, the continuous excitement serving to keep out the cold. I visited all the huts, and was enabled to procure a quiver with bow and arrows, which the natives use in piQ\suit of game. Tlie huts, like those at Barra- couta Bay, were rude hovels, filled with smoke : in order to avoid its acrid influence, it is always well to squat down on entering, as the natives do. I observed some difference amongst the natives here from those of Barracouta Bay ; they are shorter, broader. 280 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. their faces very broad and flat, with prominent cheek bones ; the alae of the nose distended ; hps and mouth well formed ; teeth perfect and white ; eyes very small, owing to the deposit of fat over the brow. Their dress is similar to the Ghiliacks ; hair black and coarse, and in some instances bound into a tail ; some had beards and moustaches. They denied that they were Ghiliacks, but called themselves Mongols. I had frequent occasion to regret my inability to sketch — opportunities oflFering each day of taking drawings of people and places hitherto unknown. In one hut I saw a roughly-cut idol of wood fixed in a dark corner, and attempted to tear it down, to try the effect such a proceedhig would have on their minds. They were much displeased, and pointed with their fingers to the highest point of the heavens, and then in a suppliant manner bowed down before their god. Here we find a race cut off from all civilisation, in the rudest state of nature ; their wants few and easily sup- plied by the bountiful hand of Providence, who sends fish to their coasts, the wild beasts of the field to give them covering in Avinter, and in summer, roots and fruits, and the ever-useful birch to afford nourishment. They have a faint idea of the First Great Cause, and worship Him through the medium of a log of wood ; but dark superstition and darker ignorance burden their souls : they know not who causes the sun to rule by day, or causes the trees to be clothed with foliage in summer, and the snow to fall in winter. No one can look upon DISEASE AMONGST TltlMlTlVE 11 ACES. 281 them for a moment without pity for their abject condition. There were six huts and about twenty-five people residing on the shores of this bay ; and, as at Barracouta Bay, much disease amongst them. I saw one dreadful case of ophthalmia in an elderly man, who was put in a small hut to live apart from the rest ; also one case of Tinea Capitis in a child of four years of age ; a hunch- back, and a case of hare-lip. I mention these cases of disease because many people imagine that savage races, living in a state of nature, are exempt from those ills which beset the more favoured and civilised portions of the human race. In winter the natives hunt the animals of the forest, whose skins are valuable for trade or barter. Tartars from the interior of Mantchouria and Mongolia at stated seasons visit the dwelhng-places of the Ghiliacks, bringing with them cotton goods, pipes, knives, tobacco, rice, needles, and some other things in exchange for the skins. Seals are taken in large num- bers on the ice during the winter : the poor animals, owing to the great cold, are very sluggish in their move- ments, and are easily killed by striking them on the nose with a stick. The flesh is used as food, the oil carefully husbanded for various purposes, and the skins prepared, by first drying them in the open air, then rubbing the inner side with rough stones till they are perfectly soft and pliable : they retain an unpleasant smell for a considerable time. On this evening we tried to procure some fish by 283 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BAKRACOUTA. hauling the seine, but were unsuccessful, owing to the rough strong bottom rolling the seine up in coils. The atmosphere was clear and calm ; the sun setting behind the dense forest, lit up the sky with golden beams, gradually changing to a light tint of yellow, which insen- sibly blended with the bright blue sky without a cloud, and the sea without a ripple. On the 17th the barometer fell suddenly in the morning, the wind shifting to the south-west ; and as we expected a breeze, we stood away from the shore. The country is very mountainous, and more barren than any other part of Tartary hitherto seen by us. The mountains rise into high peaks covered with snow ; one strongly resembles the roof of a house. The coast is bold and rocky ; some rocks terminating in sharp pinnacles, others perpendicular as pillars, assuming all sorts of fantastic shapes. On the 18 th we proceeded slowly along the coast towards De Castries Bay. The coast is abrupt, hilly, and barren, with a range of mountains in the distance : the wind was northerly and against us. The distant land of Seghalien was in view on the east ; the weather was cold ; a four-knot current running from the north, and bearing large masses of ice and drift-wood in its course. \^th. — Under steam we entered Castries Bay, the country growing lower and more wooded as we approached. Rounding Quoin Point, we entered a deep and wide bay, which embraced in its circuit three small islands ; one rocky, named '' Basalt," another wooded, " Observatory," the third, named " Oyster pa W H p. DE CASTRIES BAY. 283 Island," small and rocky. A fine fresh water stream empties itself into this bay ; the anchorage is good and safe. In the distance we could observe the smoke from the Russian dwellings rising above the trees ; and on one or two points we saw traces of Russian handiwork : but not a soul was visible. A thick forest surrounds the bay, which opens to the east ; it is sheltered on the north and south by high land, and westward, in the distance, a range of mountains stretches away to the north. There are two or three small inlets or creeks running inland : one due west, into which a small river opens. This, the " Salmon River," abounded in fish. Some Ghiliack huts are situated near the mouth of the river. Castries Bay has been careftdly surveyed by Captain Forsyth, of H.M.S. Hornet. He places the latitude of Quoin Point in 51° 28' N. lat. and 141° 3' E. long.; rise of tide six feet. This bay has lately been taken possession of by the Russians, as a secure anchorage for their ships en route to the Amoor River : owing to the sweep which this great river makes to the south, the distance between it and Castries is but about eighty miles. The route is comparatively good, and on it are established posts, so that communication may with ease be maintained between the river and the Russian settle- ment. It is probable that the Emperor of Russia will retain Castries Bay ; the settlement being of nmch importance to him, and of scarcely any to the Emperor of China : like most of the north-west coast of Tartary, it is little known, and scarcely ever visited by any of the 284 VOYAGE OP H M.S. BARRACOUTA. Imperial officials. The supercargo of an American ship which visited Castries Bay, stated that he had been over- land to Nicolasky, a Russian town on the Amoor, and that an envoy from Peking had arrived at that place a short time before with an order to the Russians " in the usual Celestial style," to depart from Chinese soil. " The answer given was significant, though brief : the envoy was told to look at the Russian ships, and see if there was not sufficient there to maintain what was got."* I think it was in the year 1842 that a considerable tract of territory north of Amoor was ceded to Russia by the Emperor of China : the south bank being still retained by China. Eventually, all north of the 50th parallel of latitude must yield to Russia. The Amoor, or Seghalien-Oula, rises in lat. 50° N. and long. 110° E., by tAvo sources: one in a sharp bend of the Davurian Mountains near a small fort of Doroninsk; the other lower down near Nishney Oulkhounsk, after a winding course to the north-east. It also receives a small branch from the south-east extremity, a small river taking its rise near the Lake Baikal ; the two streams uniting, pursue a course nearly due east, to Nertchinsk, where it is 600 yards wide and very deep. Passing this place in the same direction, it alters its course to the north, and afterwards bends east- ward, meeting a large tributary at Baklanova, which comes from the south, and is named the Argun. This splendid stream, 900 miles in length, passes through the rich * " Friend of China." THE RIVER AMOOR. 285 pasture land of Mongolia. The Anioor noAv flows easterly, passing the small town of Yacca, and receiving many tributaries ; it changes its course gradually to the south- east, passing through deep mountain valleys, and gains its southern limit in lat. 47° 48' N., and long. 132° E. From this point it ascends in a north-easterly direction, receiving the Songari from the south-west, a river which drains a great part of Manchouria; many smaller tributaries increase its volume, including the Usuri from the south. It also receives the River Zia, near Seghalien-Oula, as it approaches the mouth or outlet, which is situated in lat. 53° N., and long. 142° E., and is three miles wide. Here the stream divides — being obstructed by the opposite coast of Seghalien and the many sandbanks which beset the gulf — into two lesser streams of great force ; one pursuing a southerly direction to the Sea of Ohkotsk, the other towards the Gulf of Tartary. The length of this river, including its many windings, is computed at 2,800 miles. Its basin con- tains a surface of 900,000 square miles. It is navigable for large vessels as far as Nertchinsk, a distance of 1,500 miles. The banks are lined with forests, and once within the bar the navigation is comparatively easy ; but the mouth is obstructed by the great bar, over which there is not more than two fathoms of water at high water, and by numerous sandbanks, which are yearly increasing in number and extent. The fort and town of Nicolasky is situated on the north bank of the river, near the outlet. 386 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. The importance of this river to Russia has been forcibly brought to the notice of the Russian Govern- ment since the foundation of the town and fort of Nertchinsk in 1658. The country on the banks of the Amoor in this neighbourhood is rich and fertile, being cultivated in rye, wheat, oats and tobacco. In Captain Cochrane's travels, he says : " The value of the Amoor is, however, so generally known, and its loss so sensibly felt, that it were needless to point out the benefits which would arise from the purchase of it. All that surprises me is, that the Russians have not attempted to open a treaty even for the privilege of navigating the river : then the direct trade between Irkutsk and Kamtschatka, Japan and the Pacific in general, Avould be astonishing, while now it is at best contemptible." This was written in 1824 ; at which time, no part of the river was actually in possession of the Russians ; the Argun River then separated the Russian from the Chinese Empire. In 1842, the Emperor of China ceded to Russia a vast tract of territory between the Jablonnoi Mountains and the northern bank of the Amoor; thus afibrding to that great power a means of extending her commer- cial relations from the most fertile part of Siberia to the Pacific, and thence to Japan and the coast of China. The produce of the mines may be easily transported, and advantage taken of the richness of the soil by a. more extended system of cultivation. In a few years those corn villages and hamlets which now stud the banks of this magnificent river, will increase in size and importance, PALLAS HARBOUR. 287 as the resources of the country become more and more developed by the industry and perseverance of the mdomitable Russian race. On leaving De Castries Bay, we sailed towards Seg- halien ; the weather grew thick and stormy, and late at night, dreading the coast, we altered course for Barracouta Bay. In the Gulf of Tartary the winds are very variable ; seldom had we two days of steady wind from any one point, the temperature varying during the day between 30° and 40° Fahr. On the 28tli of May Ave arrived at Barracouta Bay, and anchored in Pallas Harbour, so called after the old frigate. There was still much ice in the harbour, extending for a few miles up a creek ; and we anchored so close to the ice, that a person could step from the accommodation ladder on it. In some places there were faults in the ice, through one of which three gallant sportsmen went down, losing their guns and getting a considerable wetting. On the 23rd the sun rose early and in great splendour. The wind blew gently from the south, loosening the ice, which drifted out to sea in large dissolving masses. After breakfast, I took a gun on my shoulder and landed with an active and agreeable companion, for a ramble tlu'ough the woods, in search of a river which we expected to find in a north-westerly direction. We at once darted into the thick forest, bearing in mind the direc- tion of the creek, parallel to which we intended to walk. We saw two pretty squirrels similar to those seen in 288 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BAKRACOUTA. Siberia, though they quickly escaped into small holes near the root of a tree. In parts the forest was quite impass- able, from the close growth of trees and the rotten trunks which lay in all directions. Now and then we came upon a beaten track of men, and in more secret places, of beasts. As we got upon the brows of the hills, the wood was more open. Numbers of fallen firs lay at length, their trunks covered with beautiful mosses and lichens ; some of the branches now upright would become young trees by striking root into the parent stem, which was being gradually converted by decomposition into a soft vegetable mould : thus is the permanence of the forest maintained ; growth, maturity, and decay following in regular succession. Occasionally we came to an open glade, where loose stones were covered with rein-deer moss and Trijpe Be BocJie. The soil is soft and shallow, lying upon a base of loose stones and volcanic rocks, forming an unstable support for trees of large growth. So soon as they over- top their fellows, they are exposed to every blast of wind, which, waving them from side to side, loosens the roots, and at length down they fall, carrying with them many a young and tender tree : I have sat and watched the effects of a breeze on the tree-tops, and have wit- nessed what I describe. Now we descended a deep valley, soft and spongy, and heard the soimd of a stream which came bubbling along through hoUoAved roots of trees, over broken branches, dropping down into cup-like cavities in the soft earth ; a cool stream is very inviting AN EXCURSION THROUGH THE FORESTS. 2S9 after a long and tiresome walk, when one feels parched with thirst. The sharp exercise had warmed iis; by this pleasant stream we sat, and having mildly adulter- ated some of the water with brandy, we lighted our cigars, sipped and smoked, and sipped again, and Hstened to the music of some birds which were perched near us, and poured forth a continuous strain of deU- cious notes. Before us lay a deep creek with floating patches of ice, and some ducks, teal, and geese, at a safe distance, swimming about. We were rather disappointed at not meeting with any game, and resumed our walk ; taking a more retired and hilly district for our course : we met with traces of the hare, bear, and rein-deer, but did not see any of the animals ; and we caught a glimpse of some grouse as they escaped into the thick brush- wood. Some travellers who were earlier on foot than ourselves, had marked their course by a succession of fires, which noted their way through long sedge and withered branches ; and we overtook them ere the day was much older, quietly at rest beneath the shade of some old pines. We then entered on a beaten path which led to a native store-house ; a hut with sloping roof, perched on four posts at an elevation of five feet, formed of the bark of the fir tree : in one end there was a small door, and near it a portable ladder, made from the stem of a young tree, having steps notched in it : the hunters use these huts for the stowage of skins. We found that we should not be able to satisfy 290 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. ourselves of the existence of a river by our present joute, and having determined upon examining some of the creeks by water, we retraced our steps towards the Kussian batteries. "We had a good walk of five miles before us, clambering over rough stones, grappling with the brittle stems of the biich, pushing through thick bmshwood, and over the rotten trunks of fallen timber ; Tve felt tired enough ere we heard the joyous laughter of our sailors as they proceeded in their work of destruction, being engaged in pulling to pieces the plat- form of one of the batteries. This business was carried on with much spirit, the men receiving additional pay for extra labour ; some were engaged in cutting the timber into logs, others in carrying them to the water's edge to be removed in boats. In a corner of the battery was a large wood fire, and over this a caldron of tea, fragi^ant and refreshing, of which we gladly partook. A drizzling shower hastened our departure towards one of the ship's boats. We passed the graves of the Pinlanders, and could no,t avoid staying for a moment to look on the place of repose of these brave sons of a hardy race ; a clear brook, as it wound round the hillock in which they lie buried, stayed its course in eddying pools, and then passed slowly onward till it came to a channel narrowed and obstructed by roots of trees and drift wood ; over these it tumbled into a wide bed, where it formed a convenient waterins:- place for the ships. Around the crosses, the anemone, pansy, and violet were in full bloom, whilst the iris, HER majesty's BIRTHDAY. 291 angelica, and rank fern fringed tlic banks of the stream. The ice, assisted by a favourable wind, cleared out of the harbour on the morning of the 24th, Her Majesty's birthday ; pieces of the wreck drifted about, being no longer confined by the ice. The day being warm, fine and bright, Captain Fortescue went on a short excm^sion, and discovered a river up one of the creeks ; some huts were on its banks, and the natives had been successful in their capture of salmon, trout, and carp. In a couple of hours he bagged six brace of ducks and teal, and a capercailzie or cock of the woods. The evening being very inviting, we manned a boat with a few volunteers ; and the ice no longer an obstacle, we proceeded with a fair breeze up the long creek which stretched awayj from Pallas harbour : we soon lost the wind, owing to the frequent tm-nings of the creek, and Avere compelled to use the oars. We landed for a few moments in a calm nook, to make a bonfire in honour of our good queen. On either side of the creek the tall and stately pines, with the birch and alder, grew close to the water's margin, and were reflected on its calm and clear surface ; as we pulled along we started many wild fowl, which flitted before us for a few yards and again sought shelter. The water grew shallow as we approached the end of the creek, which divided into two branches ; one terminating abruptly, the other dwindling into a smalfstream, that was lost in the windings of a deep wooded valley. We followed this V 2 292 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. stream till the tide receding left us high and dry, Avith marshy ground on either side of us ; the bed of the stream being covered with old gnarled roots of trees. After some trouble we succeeded in launching our boat into deep water, and steered for the good ship. The yew, pine, Scotch fir, birch, larch, and alder grow in abundance around the harbour. The whortle-berry is very common, also a small shrub resembling the Pyrola, having drooping leaves in whorls, and a peculiar perfume like Origanum. The Siberian ground squirrel {Tamias Sibeo') is very common here. The capercailzie {Tetrao TJrogallui) and {Tetrao Tetria;,) or black cock are to be found here ; also wild geese, ducks, teal, widgeon, several species of diver, the crow, wagtail, and seagull. Up to this date we had seen but three species of fish ; small cod, plaice, and a very ugly fish which the sailors called " bull rout," having a large head, mouth, and stomach : it is not edible. On arriving on board the Barracouta, we found that she was under orders for sea. We were rather disappointed in not seeing more of this interesting region ; however, we looked forward with pleasure to a speedy return. On the 25th of May Ave steamed out of Barracouta Bay, having H.M.S. Sgbille and Pique in tow ; the morning bright, with a light wind from the south-east, succeeded in the evening by a dense fog, but of short duration. The weather grew mild and warm, with light variable winds, as we approached the island of Yezo. On the 28th we met with STRAITS OF SANGUR. 293 H.I. M.S. Virpnle and Comtmitlne, bound for Castries Bay ; the former having the French Admiral on hoard. He changed his course for our newly discovered bay, on learning that M^e had lately paid Castries Bay a visit. In the evening we saw the high mountainous land of Cape Kutosoff on the coast of Yezo. The cape was still covered with snow, its summit peering high above the clouds. On the morning of the 29th we passed the islands of Osima and Cosima, and entered the Straits of Sangur, The hills were now clothed with verdure, the trees of various shades, rounded and umbrageous. The more one sees of this delightful region, the more pleasing are the various aspects of hill and dale, wood and water. We steamed rather slowly, and entered the bay of Hakodadi before sunset : the country had assumed another phase since our last visit. CHAPTER XXII. Arrival of H.M.S. Hornet — Prince Imperial — Coal — Japanese desire to learn — Small arms exercise — Beauty of the Country — Tea-garden — The Ainos — Old cannon— Governor visits Commodore — Cemetery — Sail for Tartary — The coast — Shelter Bay— Bullocks in view — Fishing and walking — Bullock Bay. We were much pleased to see H.M.S. Hornet arrive at Hakodadi on the 31st, with the English mail. We had been a long time without knowing anything of the movements of the world, as we considered ourselves completely out of the world ; or rather in one hitherto unknown. The only news of importance was of the birth of an Imperial Prince to Napoleon HI. ; heir it is hoped, to the crown of Erance, but not to the struggles which vexed the early life of the present great ruler. Few that have not witnessed, can have any idea of the excitement produced by the arrival of a mail amongst the officers and crcAv of a man-of-war on a distant station, where communications are like angels' visits ; the eager hope and anxious eye ; the general restless- ness depicted in the face of each as he watches the letters and papers sorted in bundles : friends at home, I am sure, would write more frequently, were they to know how anxiously a letter is looked for, and what JAPANESE COAL. 295 comfort it is, be the news over so trivial, to tliose leading the roving life of a sailor. June '^nd. — Some Japanese brought on board a spe- cimen of coal, which was procured on the eastern coast of Yezo. It was surface coal, and, from its ligneous structure, of recent formation ; the fracture was smooth, compact, and rather conchoidal ; it burned slowly, and with a dead flame, showing a want of bitumen. They would not inform us of the position of the coal-fields, lest we should help ourselves. On a recent occasion, when we required a supply of coals, the Japanese sent it on board in straw bags, each bag containing two piculs.* We were compelled to throw the bags overboard, lest they would become mixed with the coal in the bunkers, and thinking that we should save them trouble and expense by supplying the usual coaling bags, we sent a hundred to have filled ; but no innovations would be allowed : the Japanese must do now as they have been in the habit of doing for some centuries ; so they politely sent back our boat, and the coal in their own style. Some of the officials asked permission to be allowed to practise musket and pistol drill, and to learn the uses and appliances of steam machinery. They were promised every facility in the latter department, and were referred to the Commodore for permission to use arms. They were also anxious to acquire a knowledge of our language and customs. The Japanese do not * A Picul = 1 30 lbs. weight (English). > 296 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. despise all innovations, having already built a pinnace after a French model, with sails, spars, &c., exactly as the pattern : the only difference I observed, as they were trying her sailing powers in the bay, was an horizontal blue stripe on each of the sails, and a white flag painted on the bow. I took a stroll through the town, towards the country, crossing over some hills by the side of a deep grove ; wild flowers in profusion adorned the hill sides, the lily of the valley bloomed in every sheltered spot, and sarsaparilla, elder, violets, and papilionaceous flowers, some creeping, intertwined themselves with the wood- bine, which perfumed the air. The yew, fir, and cypress, in dark green foliage, contrasted with the brownish soft tint of the oak, and the pale light-green of the sycamore. I crossed a hill which overlooks the isthmus and distant straits, and descended through shrubs and flowers to a small valley, in which lies embosomed a very pretty tea-garden ; a place of recreation for the good people of Hakodadi, on summer evenings, after the labours of the day. Entering through a cypress grove, the garden expands into a spacious pleasure-ground, surrounded by trees. Here are grottoes, serpentine walks, and an artificial lake, covered with the floating water-lily, now in bloom ; handsome tea-houses were placed at intervals ill spots shaded by the willow and sycamore ; and on the left side of the garden, the cooking-house and prin- cipal tea-house was situated. Here I entered, and with JAPANESE TEA-GARDEN. 297 the usual polite salution of" 0-hi-O," \v as invited by the mistress of the house to be seated, and take tea. I made myself quite at home, and exereised my small stock of Japanese words, which became rapidly increased under the tuition of a fair instructress, who sitting beside me, took care that I pronounced each word. I, in my turn, taught her some English, which she pronounced correctly, and with emphasis. I could not persuade my friends to accept of any present ; they were too much afraid of the government spies : one of the women took me by the arm and leading me to a window, showed me two individuals who had followed my footsteps, and were now within a few paces of the garden. The cooks were busily employed preparing dinner for some expected customers. The same cleanliness which characterises all their operations might be observed in the process of cooking : a stream of water passed through a large trough in the kitchen, and in this fish and vegetables were carefully washed ; whilst, on a white deal table, sweetmeats of many descriptions were being prepared. I remained here for an hour ; by which time the visitors were growing rather numerous ; and, though polite, were rather curious in examining every portion of my uniform. I returned to the town by another route, and met with some messmates, who were just going on board. During our stay on this occasion, the weather was so very fine that few remained on board, unless when on duty. On the Gth, a small walking party landed for 298 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. an excursion in search of an Aino village. The Ainos were the aborigines of Yezo ; but, owing to the harsh treatment they were subject to from the Japanese, had retired to lonely and desolate places where they might exist in peace. Passing through the town, we found the streets filled with horses, laden with dried fish and charcoal. The horses were short, stout, nearly all of a dark bay colour, with black tails ; their feet shod in thick shppers, made of plaited straw, and fastened above the fetlocks with a plait of the same material. One man is sufficient to take charge of twenty horses, as they travel in single file, each horse attached to its neighbours in front and rear. The inhabitants were preparing for a great festival about to take place on the morrow : banners, attached to bamboo poles, were placed in front of the principal houses. They Avere made of cotton, gaudily painted, some having strange animals represented upon them ; others, people in different fighting attitudes, with hideous faces, and grotesque dresses, the larger and more athletic exhibiting his prowess by unmercifully belabouring his smaller antagonist. On a slip near the shore we saw some large guns ; two brass 32-pounders, lately cast, and having the modern improvements of lock and tangent sight, were mounted on cumbersome carriages. The other guns were very large and old, having 1570 engraved upon them, also an imperial crown with E. R. ; two had the Portuguese royal arms raised upon them : a SEARCH FOE AINOS. 299 party of soldiers were engaged cleaning tlicm. Hero also was a rope-walk, with men engaged in the process of rope-making, in a manner somewhat similar to our own. The working classes are very hardy and mus- cular, and have scarcely any clothes upon them ; though at this season the temperature was 54°, with a north- easterly wind. We walked onwards till we came to the sandy spit which separates the Straits of Matsmai from the harbour of Hakodadi. Not many yards distant from high- water mark, and facing the straits, ran a long line of low^ detached huts ; each having an elevated sentry-box, or look-out house, before the door. Shifting sandhills encroached on the sides and gables ; and a range of sandhills ranged on either side parallel to the huts ; some hills were loose and moving, others firm and covered with a thick crop of sweetbriar, and roses : the latter a small stunted shrub, with dark green leaves, the flowers deep red and fragrant ; and beneath their shade the blue violet flourished, putting forth its modest flower. We found most of the houses void of residents; one whose windows were broken afforded a peep-hole, and disclosed a very filthy interior, a rank smefl of decaying fish pervading. We were told that this was an Aino village, and on meeting with a little boy of about six years of age, I mistook him for an Aino. ''You Aino?" "No, Inglese," said the little fellow, quite indig- nantly; "I, Niphon. Aino no good. Yes! Aino 300 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BAREACOUTA. no good." It is surprising to observe with what aptitude they pick up our language. On our return, we met with the Governor going in state to pay a visit to Commodore the Hon. C. G. B. Elliott. A body of soldiers marched before him bearing pikes, whilst som.e carried the insignia of his office, a large spear, a banner, and a gilded helmet, with a plume of white horse-hair. Then came the great Kami himself, mounted on a cream-coloured horse covered with trappings ; a stirrup -holder walked on either side, and after him came the chief officers of his household. He was plainly attired, and appeared a thoughtful and unassuming man, of about forty-five years of age, and very pale. He was much pleased with his reception on board H.M.S. Syhille, and requested the Commodore to afford him an opportunity of seeing some great gun practice ; a few shots satisfied and pleased him, and he requested that no more firing should take place in the harbour. We entered a cemetery which was in the bosom of a deep plantation, where were tombstones of different shapes ; some oblong, of fine granite, cut and rubbed fine, the names, ages, and particulars of the deceased cut in deep characters, and painted or gilded ; others, more humble, were mere blocks of granite, with in- scriptions rudely marked upon them. Most of the graves had flowers strewed over them, and we passed an old woman who was carefully sweeping away the dust that accumulated about a tombstone, and decorating it JAPANESE CEMETERY. 301 with fresli-blown flowers ; her tlioiiorlits no doubt steaUno- away to the lost object of her regard : we were un- noticed by her, nor did we Avish to disturb her occu- pation or the current of her thoughts. Another woman higher up, in a sheltered part of the cemetery, devoted her attention to the adornment of three rude and rough stones that were placed beneath the shade of a lovely cypress : having swept around them, and scat- tered a few flowers, she sprinkled them plentifully from a can of water, the stones getting a large share of water : having arranged everything to her satisfaction, she took a farewell look and departed. Leaving the cemetery by a \»dnding pathway, we mounted a liiU overlooking the town, and passed through a fragrant grove of cedars which ran along a gentle slope of the hill. The azalea, camellia, and rhododendron, grew wild around us, and many handsome flowering plants, indigenous, but unknown to us. We sauntered along to the tea-garden, where we found a goodly array of Japanese gentry enjoying tea and pipes. TJiey asked us to join them, which we did, and spent our time as usual, teaching English and learning Japanese. ]\Iany fruit-trees were now in bloom, though the leaves had not yet appeared ; the pear, apricot, quince, and mulberry, Avere in full foliage. On the 8th of June Ave sailed from Hakodadi for the coast of Tartary. It has generally happened Avith us that if any special duty Avas to be performed, such as ' pirate hunting or cruising, arriving at or departing from 302 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. a port, such duty happened upon a Sunday : on this day we steamed out of the bay, the frigates Syhille and Pique following. We experienced a calm, and came to anchor beneath Cape Sassiraa. The day was very fine, and the country richly clad in verdure. Flowering shrubs were in profusion in some park land along the coast ; many varieties of the rose, imperial and orange lilies, lily of the valley, larkspurs, and primroses ; and many species of ferns, the fronds extremely delicate and beautiful : the convolvulus and smilax, and acacia, in clusters, creeping and intertwining with the cedar and cypress. Some of the crew tried to catch some fish, but only succeeded in taking some dog-fish on board : they are very tenacious of life, and resemble the common spotted dog-fish, Set/Ilium Canicula, genus Squalida. We weighed anchor, in company with the frigates, and steamed along the shore. On the 9th heavy clouds rolled over the hills, and the day grew close, till the pressure of the atmosphere was relieved by frequent showers, with thunder and lightning : the latter darting down in bright and abrupt flashes, and the thunder booming heavily, and near to us, almost over our heads. We sighted the coast of Tartary on the evening of the 11th, and lay off" during the night; the coast being dangerous. We passed four ships sailing towards the Straits of La Perouse, but strange to say, did not board any of them. The moon rose in much splendoui*, throwing a broad stream of light on the rippling wave, and exhibiting the clear outlines of the distant hills. COASTS OF TARTARY. 303 We steamed close along tlie coast in the early morning, far south of Suffricn Bay, which wc first saw on our former visit. The coast line is abrupt, and in places high and perpendicular,and the country is hilly and barren ; trees are thinly scattered, crooked and stunted, in some places without branches as if they had been lately burnt. The rocks are in grey masses : quartz with hornblende imbedded in a hard grey stone ; the fracture resembling that of the whinstone : veins of red ironstone also are occasionally visible in the rocks. From the bases of many of the headlands, long reefs run far out into the sea, over which the waves broke in hoarse murmur. Some rocks are remarkably rugged ; and pinnacles or needle rocks, isolated from their parent rocks, stood at various distances from the shore. We had a strong breeze against us, and as we were making but little way, we came to anchor in a very good bay, protected from the north-east wind by a prominent bluff on the south-west. There was another headland, and between them a Ioav tract of land fairly wooded ; this plain or basin gradually retreated to a series of high mountains which terminated in sharp peaks ; deep winding valleys intersecting them. A slight surf rolled over a shingle beach : before our anchorage, a little to the left, a smooth inlet appeared, as if the outlet of a river. After dinner a fishing party went on shore, and I accompanied it. We discovered a river two hundred yards broad, with a strong current running into the 301. VOYAGE OP H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. bay over a shallow bar ; within the latter there was nine foot depth of water, with a fine sandy bottom. The men were very successful, and caught six large buckets full of fine trout, with some plaice and flounders. The banks of the river were marshy, and covered with reeds and sedge. On the hill-sides, dwarf oak, birch, and elm were thinly scattered ; here also the wild gooseberry, azalea and rhododendron were in bloom, with many other flowering shrubs. Lilies and violets, and the more humble but still graceful ferns adorned many shady spots. Some plants which were in bloom when we left Hakodadi, owing to the difference of latitude and season, had not yet put forth their flowers. Three of us took a small boat to explore : the river about a mile from the sea is divided into two branches ; we ascended the broader one, till it grew too narrow and shallow to proceed further, and Ave landed on a marsh much too wet for pleasure excursions : in vain we searched for houses or natives ; though we frequently came upon the tracks of cattle. The setting sun warned us of the approach of night, so we embarked in our little skiff aiid slowly drifted down the stream, which was overhung in parts by the willow, birch, and alder. A bird perched on a tree above us, as we passed, poured forth some strange and pleasing notes, round and full as the bullfincli ; and here, for the first time this season, we heard the clear note of the cuckoo. This anchorage was named Shelter Bay. With a promising sunrise we weighed anchor on the BULLOCK BAY. 305 following morning, and slowly crnised along the shore. The coast still abrupt and rocky, the rocks without any appearance of stratification, seeming as though they had been pushed up in a vertical direction ; they were deeply marked by rifts and chasms. The country as we proceeded along the coast grew more wooded, and the plains verdant. The azalea in bloom covering many a fair tract of elevated land. About one o'clock we observed on a sandy beach in a bay having pro- minent headlands on either side, a drove of cattle, amounting in number to forty, and changing their direction as the steamer approached, leisurely sauntering on the bank of a river which opened into the bay. As we were in search of bullocks for the squadron, we thought that we now had a fair chance of obtaining some. The anchor was dropped, and two boats with an armed party went on shore to secure three of them. As the boats approached, the animals grew restless, but did not move far away. The commander after a long search did not find the owners, or any trace of the habitation of mankind save a deserted hut. The natives may have retired to the woods upon seeing an armed vessel enter the bay. One of the boats with the paymaster ascended the river as far as four miles from the mouth, but was likewise unsuccessful in his search for the natives. He had a shot at a deer, but missed him ; the noble animal plunged into the river, and once across, was soon lost to view. On the return of the cattle hunters I accompanied 306 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BAERACOUTA. the more successful fishing party. On entering the river, which is broad, there is an abrupt and precipitous ledge of rocks on the left, and on the right, a sandy beach and bank becoming continuous, with a low and flat marsh which is woody in parts and varied by rising grounds covered with shrubs. The net was speedily shot out, forming an extensive arc of a circle, the rope at each end being in the hands of some sturdy volunteers, who slowly and steadily hauled in their prize, to the lively air of " Far away in old Kentucky." I waited to see the first haul ; and as the net neared the land we could see by the ripple in the centre that there were a few good sized fish to repay the trouble of the fishermen : there was a fine haul of large trout and flat fish, some of the former weighing eighteen pounds. I followed the course of the river for a little distance, and then turned into the wood ; here were some large and crooked oaks, with larch and birch, growing in scattered patches, but not thickly planted. Many of the oaks were partially charred from recent fires, whilst others lying on the ground were in parts burned through. I measured one oak which was nine feet in circum- ference ; many were decayed in the heart. This species of oak was remarkable for having very large leaves and very small acorns. In the open glades there was very fine pasturage, though occasionally mixed with young reeds, sedge, and the equisetum or mare's tail. After a short walk I BULLOCK BAY. 307 again reached the river bank, and followed it till it divided into three branches. Proceeding by what appeared to me to be the main branch, which was broad and clear, the fine sandy bottom appearing covered by old roots and trunks of trees, I came to a fine flat plain sufficiently dry for cattle ; the young grass was already long and rich. Some beaten tracks showed that it was frequented by cattle, which are driven from the high forests by gnats and mosquitoes in the summer months, and seek the cool breeze from the sea. I met with a fine yearling heifer which was lying at her ease ; she had a well-shaped head, deep body, of red and white colour, with pendent dewlap. Passing into a deep grove I found the wild currant in bloom, the whortleberry, and a dwarf juniper. Many plants were in flower, lilies, cuckoo flower {Car da- mine pratensis) wild tulips, and orchids ; here also the chrysanthemum w^as in profusion, but not in bloom. As I returned, the moon was up, and the scenery by moonlight looked very pretty, especially the windings of the river. Approaching the outlet, one part of the river hidden from the moon's rays by precipitous rocks was thrown into deep shade ; a little further on, the rippling wave brightly reflected her rays, the sky was cloudless and still, tinted in the west with a faint yellow. I reached the fishing party as they were making their last haul; they had been very successful, and now packed the seine, and joyously pulled on board, each person gradually feeling a healthy fatigue. X 2 308 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. At daylight on the foUowmg morning a party of officers and men left the ship in search of bullocks ; they proceeded up the river for some miles, and disco- vered a few Tartar houses : the Tartars upon perceiving a body of men advancing, prepared to run away, till they observed that the strangers came on a peaceful mission. The Tartars understood the written Chinese characters, and our interpreter explained to them that the officers were in want of some bullocks, and would give a fair price for them ; they pretended not to under- stand the request for bullocks, but offered tobacco leaf and some old skins for sale. They had well cultivated gardens around the houses, and were dressed in a manner similar to the Northern Chinese. Their cheek bones were very prominent, and their eyes obhque and small. The party returned on board early in the fore- noon, having been unsuccessful in their mission. This bay was called " Bullock Bay." We weighed anchor and proceeded along the coast. The country gradually improved in appearance, the hills being of a bright green colom' ; the trees were not thickly planted, but covered with foliage ; and abrupt capes and rocks contrasted agreeably with wide plains and deep valleys. The front of the rocks presented a curious appearance, being of alternate strata of dark grey and red stone, two strata of the latter frequently running into one ; some were wavy, others variously contorted. On passing some green pasture land we observed cattle browsing, but as we did not see any BULLOCK BAY. 309 people near them we did not land. In various parts of the wooded hills we observed, for some days past, fires lit, in order to burn the underwood and old grass, so that the young may start up in the advancing season as food for the cattle. CHAPTER XXIII. Fogs— Sybillc on shore — Arrival at Barracouta Harbour — In search of a river — Forest life — Meet with natives — Peony and cypress — Our supper and bedroom — Sleeping under difficulties — Our compass and return — The river and the country — Huts and natives — Ghiliack words. On the 1 5th of June, a dense fog came on, similar to our old friends in the sea of Ohkotsk, and so thick that it might be felt; it continued during the 16th, with a light wind from the south-east, when it resembled a thick mist. Our latitude at 12 o'clock, by dead reckoning, was 48 "04, so that we were not very far from Barracouta Bay ; for which place we were steering. In the afternoon we sounded with the deep-sea lead, and found bottom at 32 fathoms, the lead bringing up sand and pebbles. We caught with a deep line a number of cod, which averaged five pounds weight ; the bank extended for some miles along the coast; we also caught a large sea polypus. During the early part of the 17th we were in water varying from 25 to 35 fathoms : fish still very plentiful. At 9 a.m. the fog cleared away for about 40 feet above the level of the water, and towards the shore, discover- ing a high and rocky coast within gunshot : we should THE SYBILLE ON SH01{E. 311 have gone on shore in five minutes, but for the opportune departure of the fog. Above, and seaward, the fog was still thick and close, but along the shore there was a clear space of a mile in breadth : the temperature of the sea water was 40° Fahr. and of the air 58° Fahr. One of the men brought me a small branch of coral, which he hooked in water 25 fathoms deep; it resembled an algse covered with coral incrustations. At noon we found we were off Cape Lesseps, 25 miles north of our destined port ; so we altered our course and stood down the coast : the fog continued pretty thick till within seven miles of Barracouta Bay ; around the woods in the vicinity of the bay, the atmosphere was clear. We arrived at 4 o'clock p.m., and anchored in Pallas Harbour, There was eight degrees difference in the temperature of the water of Cape Lesseps and that of Pallas Har- bour; the former being 40° Pahr., the latter 48° Pahr. On the 18th one of the ByUlles boats arrived with news of the Sijhilles being on shore near Beechy Head ; we got up steam immediately and proceeded to her relief. A thick fog came on, so that we could not see her, but by firing guns we ascertained her position, and that she was afloat and at anchor. A favourable breeze springing up, though the fog still continued, we went ahead of the frigate to guide her to port, firing guns every five minutes to mark our course. Before we reached the bay we cleared the fog, and taking the BijUlle in tow, anchored in Pallas Harbour, The barometer had been gradually falling, the air was close 312 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARKACOUTA. and oppressive, and a dark cloud rolled towards us over the tops of tlie trees, at last bursting forth in a regular thunder storm; flashes of forked lightning were suc- ceeded by peals of distant thunder, and the rain fell in torrents, continuing the entire night. The French frigates Virginie (flag) and Sibi/Ue, toge- ther with H.M.S. Pique, arrived on the 19th. The French ships had been to Castries Bay, anchored, and communicated — under flag of truce — with a Russian officer. No hostile movements were made on either side. The Russians were not aware of an armistice in Europe, but were daily expecting the arrival of a mail from St. Petersburg ; sentries were placed at difi'erent posts, but there were no batteries visible on the islands or shore. The Syhille * having some cases of small pox on board, was placed in quarantine. Early on the morning of the 20th I partook of a hasty breakfast with my usual walking companion, Hudson (now of the Eiiryalus), and having examined our sporting gear landed for a ramble through the woods, partly in search of game, and partly in search of a river. Expecting to return early in the evening, we provided ourselves with but one meal and a flask of rum; but I carried a kettle on my back, wherewith to make some tea when we should cry halt. Having examined our pocket compass, which was faulty in many respects, the pivot and box being wanting, we temporarily sup- planted the pivot by a common brass pin; we then * There were two frigates of same name — Englisli, Syhille ; French, Sibylle. IN SEARCH OP A RIVER. 313 loaded our guns, took the bearings of the ships, and walked for an hour along the margin of a Avood till wc came to a deserted hut. It was rather larger than those we had been accustomed to meet with, and it had the appearance of being but lately deserted, and in haste ; as there were some useful implements lying about, such as knives, snares, tobacco pouches, and scraps from the wreck of the Russian frigate : an empty storehouse stood on a hill at a little distance from it. We tried to find a path ; there were three, but none of them extended any distance; so depending on ourselves and our crippled compass, we steered south, making observations occa- sionally to correct our progress. The forest was thickly planted; vast quantities of trunks of trees lay in all directions, which, with the dense underwood, very much impeded our progress ; however, with good temper and perseverance, we managed to proceed at the rate of two miles an hour. The pretty orchids, and various lilies, displayed their modest beauties ; large conical ant-hills were occasionally in our path, their ever busy inmates travelling to and fro in search of food for winter. We ascended a steep hill ; thick moss, rotten trees, under- shrubs, and tangled bushes rendering the ascent very difficult ; but as yet we have seen neither bird nor beast. We descended and got into a marsh, v/ith young sedge and long reeds, an inviting spot for birds and animals ; passing through it in silence, we crossed a good sized stream running at right angles to our course. The rain fell in gentle showers, but was sufficient to soak through 314< VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. our clotlies. Some pretty jays hopped from branch to branch, and 1 killed two ; but the thick branches caught one of them : the beak resembled that of the ordinary jay ; head black, back feathers brownish grey, and very downy; tail and tips of wings reddish-brown, the exterior feathers half black. At noon we came to a stream, near to which were some trees freshly hewn; and following the course of the stream, we got on a path, which soon brought us to a beach, from which there was a lovely view. Near to the mouth of the stream was a Ghiliack hut, inhabited ; the inmates Avere at first very shy, but soon acquired confidence and approached us. The inlet in which we found ourselves was w^ell sheltered; behind the forest shaded it, and on either sides precipitous cliffs rose from the water's edge, warding off the keen blasts of winter. Before us lay a broad expanse of water, separating us from an extensive forest which stretched far away towards a river; the mouth of which was visible, though at a great distance. We endeavoured to make the natives understand that we wanted a canoe to take us to the river, as there were three, two hauled up on shore and one in process of building ; but they did not wish to lend a canoe lest we might not return with it. They asked for tabac and wanted to know if we were "Looshi " (Russians). They offered us some salmon, but as the fish were not very fresh we did not accept of them. We saw salmon cut in long strips and hung up to dry in the open air ; the heads and entrails of fish were also hung IN SEAllCH OF A RlVEll. ;315 up, to be preserved as winter food for the dogs, a dozen of which were tied to stakes around the hut. These dogs are used for sleighs and for guarding the huts from the attacks of wild beasts, and they keep up a continuous hoAvl during the night. We did not enter the hut, it was so filthy : the inmates did not appear to understand the cleansing power of water; but we made a few presents to our newly acquired friends. Entering the wood a second time, we steered south- west, expecting to gain the river in that direction ; our supposition proved correct. As we advanced, the land became higher, and at intervals open glades appeared ; the peony was in bloom, rich young grass sprouted up in all dii'ections, and the yew and cypress grew in great beauty, unobstructed and open to the bright rays of the sun, whenever that glorious luminary visited this country : at this season there were but partial glimpses of his rays. We approached a steep bluff from which we had a fine view of the river, winding away in a broad stream; several islets studding its mouth. Some adventurers were afloat, as we could see in the distance the white sails of a ship's boat ; the wild fowl, distm-bed from their rest, flying before it in flocks. We called a halt for dinner beside a little rivulet ; being a little hungry after a walk of eight hours' duration. Whilst we were enjoy- ing ourselves some grouse flew past us ; they were the first we had seen during the day, and we were rather disappointed at not getting a shot at them, our guns being more than an arm's length from us as they passed. 316 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARKACOUTA. We resumed our journey, and towards evening arrived at the banks of a large river, where we came to a pause. The clouds were lowering in the distance, and a heavy mist from the sea spread over the forests. We knew if the rain came on that we could not by any possibility return through the woods during the night ; so we looked out for a dry billet, and fortunately found a deserted store-house near the river. We were very thankful for our present habitation, and commenced to make it comfortable by lighting a fire; my comrade went in search of game, whilst I undertook the office of cook, putting on water to boil for tea, and frying some herrings for supper. Our stock of biscuit was rather limited, but we relished the tea very much : indeed, on walking excursions I think there is no beverage so refreshing and harmless as tea. One can endure more hardships under the gentle stimulus of tea than under that of the greater favourite brandy : tea stinmlates and refreshes : brandy stimulates but weakens the vital powers. The rain came down in torrents, and we determined upon staying during the night in our present abode; so we covered our guns, made a good fire, and stretched ourselves before it, enjoying a cigar and consoling om*- selves with the reflection that we might have been much worse ofi*. We were unanimous in all our decisions ; which is a great matter when people are thrown together by chance or inclination. The rain cleared away in the evening, l^ut it was then too late to think of retiurning ; A NIGHT IN THE FOREST. 33 7 thougli in a direct line we could not be more than six miles from the ships : but as we travelled, the distance must have been eighteen or twenty miles. We took our guns and walked up the bank of the river in search of some duck ; we saw plenty, but they were very wild : Hudson lay in wait among the reeds, up to his waist in water, and succeeded in getting a bird. Being thoroughly wet, we thought it just as well to remain on the look-out for an hour or so : we could hear the mate of the dead bird whistling for its lost companion. We returned to our house, added more fuel to the fire, boiled some cocoa and talked: wondering what our messmates would think of om' absence, surmising their conclusion that our " lodging was on the cold ground," or that, as on a former occasion, we had a stone for a pillow and the heavens for a canopy. We managed to discover the entrance to the loft, by withdrawing four poles which ran across the floor of the apartment ; and ascending through this opening, first extinguishing the fire, we replaced the poles and lay down wet and weary on a few old skins. As the night wore on, it grew very cold ; the rain came in large drops through all parts of the roof, and through the open chinks of the floor the wind entered in cold gusts. I coidd not sleep ; the distant howHng of dogs and my own thoughts kept me wide awake : indeed I was afraid that once asleep I should not awake till the morning woidd be far advanced. I coidd not de])end on my comrade, who had long since given me ample proof of his sleeping 318 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. powers : he was safely locked in the arms of Morpheus, and snored most lustily ; though like all other snorers he would not admit the fact when wide awake. I let him sleep till two o'clock, when with some trouble I got him on his legs ; in vain he urged it was not near dayhght, and said "just wait another bit." I made a roaring fire and boiled some cocoa; which, with an inch square of cold fat pork, was all we had for breakfast. After our scanty repast we took bear- ings for the ships and started in a north-north-easterly direction. Our little compass we thought was in error ; some- times affected by the winds, or by the propinquity of our guns, and again from the want of a proper pivot : all our pins were lost, and the card was compelled to revolve on a sharpened point of wood. The past night's rain had saturated the forest with moisture ; the leaves of the underwood retained much rain, and a continual dropping came on our shoulders from the branches of the trees. After pursuing a devious course for some time through wet sedge and over wet moss, we crossed a rapid stream, from which we took a copious draught of the cool and refreshing water, and we soon reached the proper track. The distant sound of an axe duected our course, and by eight o'clock we reached the water's edge in sight of the Barracouta ; and when within sound of a musket-shot we discharged our pieces to let our friends know of our whereabouts. We had not to wait very long; a boat put off from the ship. RIVER SCENERY. 319 and in a very short space of time reached us. One of the boys held up a large bottle of " Bass's pale ale," and said, " Mr. B.'s compliments to you, sir, and thinks you won't be no worse of this ; " an opinion in which we co-incided. On going on board our friends informed us that they were much alarmed at our absence, and that the Commodore had ordered some large guns to be fired during the past night, to direct our course in case of our being lost or astray. We thanked them for their kind interest, and still more for a warm breakfast which they had prepared for us. On Midsummer's Day a few of the officers of the Pique joined some from the Barracoida and made a pic-nic party to the river which had been discovered a short time since. Having everything arranged in a satisfactory manner, we started in a light boat, our crew numbering eight. Clearing Pique Bay we rounded Carr Point ; a dense fog was approaching from the sea, and a gloomy sky foretold rain and wind. In other climates we should have at once returned on observing such threatening symptoms, but here changes were hourly taking place, so we pulled cheerily along. Having passed the anchorage of the French ships, we got a fair wind and made sail ; the sun making its way brightly through the clouds, the fair wind curling the gentle waves before us, and distending our small white sail. We passed some pretty coves, in one of which there were some Ghiliack huts, and near them French sailors bleaching clothes and singing joyously. On passing 320 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. Kirkland Point Ave came in sight of the river. We sailed by abrupt crags discoloured with iron rust, their summits covered with the hardy fir and useful birch. The delta of the river now appeared : well might it be called a delta, from the number of alluvial islands di- verting its course and causing many outlets. Near the left bank of the river we saw some native huts, towards which we sailed in order to procure some fish. We got a very fine salmon-trout, weighing about fourteen pounds, for which we paid three uniform buttons ; the vendors being as well satisfied as the pur- chasers. We would have lingered longer with the inoffensive Ghiliacks, but that we wished to make the most of the day by exploring the river : we promised to return to them in the evening. We entered the left branch of the river — left, as regards our approach. The water at first ^vas very shallow, and rather dangerous from the number of snags which everywhere peeped above the surface ; but once in the proper bed of the river the water was deep enough. We have found, as a general rule, that the deepest water is by the highest land; so it was in this instance, the water growing deeper by the side of a precipitous and lofty range of hills, whose sides were clothed with trees now bright and green. Misshapen trunks of trees, caught and detained in their passage from mountain streams by some jutting points, obstructed the current of the river. Other streams now opened before us, winding round some low and wooded islands, beautiful and picturesque ; we took the most GROWTH OF ISLETS. 321 inviting course, the middle branch. In the deep indents of the islands the surface of the water is calm and like a mirror, reflecting clearly each leaf of the willow which overhangs and kisses the surface; the light tinted flowers drop down the stream and deceive the watchful trout. In the middle of the river the stream was strong against us, but the breeze being with us, we managed to make way at the rate of three miles an hour ; the day was as fine as could be desired, bright, and not too warm. We observed some deserted huts on either side, and near them the usual storehouse. The stream became more rapid as we advanced, and in one place its course was much obstructed by thick masses of drift- wood; large trunks of trees intertwining their roots and branches, leaving but a narrow space open, through which the river rushed with great force. A little further on there was the foundation of a new island : some drift wood had been detained in an eddied pool, which in its turn detained other floating substances ; then occa- sional passing torrents deposited stones and sand, filling up all crevices ; the sand caught passing seeds, as yet congenial only for sedge and reeds ; but by the decompo- sition of the latter a more fertile soil will be formed, and in a few years hence the indigenous plants of the country will find a position. Thus are formed the alluvial islands and islets of this river. This river, which at one time must have been of great breadth, is now becoming gradually narrowed into a shallow stream ; the islands increasing in breadth yearly, 822 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BAERACOUTA. will soon form a long and low plain, througli which one stream may find its way to the bay. At present there is a luxurious growth of fir, birch, hiccory, and willow, together with sedge and reeds, and a few flowering plants. In winter these islands are partially over- flowed, as is evidenced by drifted sedge and brambles still clinging around the trunks and lower branches of the trees. Here future geologists, upon examination, would find first, a high order of plants, then, in order, deep turf sand, with fossil remains of deer, fish, eagle, or other birds ; next decomposed trees, perhaps con- verted into peat, or hgnite ; sand, shells, and pebbles, the bed of the former river; and so on, according to the ordinary workings of nature's laws. We started many wild fowl from their nests as we advanced towards the rapids. The country was still mountainous on our left, and on the right were small islets, growing smaller and smaller as the stream grows narrow. Unable any longer to row against the current, we landed, and towed the boat as far as there was sufficient depth to float her ; when we called a halt, selected a shady spot on an islet, and sat down to a very salutary repast. The river was much shorter than we anticipated from the broad outlet, being but six miles to the rapids. Having made an excursion into the country without meeting with any natives or huts, we launched our boat at five o'clock, and drifted down stream ; the wind had died away, and when we got out of the influence of the current were compelled to have recourse to the oars. A GHILIACK SETTLEMENT. 323 In passing an islet we visited a deserted hut ; the exterior resembled those in the vicinity of Barracouta Bay, and the interior was very dirty ; it contained Russian tarpaulins, reindeer's horns, birch bark drinking cups, bows, and a tobacco pouch made of Russian canvas ; eagle skins and bones of fish lay scattered about, their odour not fragrant but strong. As soon as we were clear of the river we pulled towards the Ghiliack set- tlement and landed. A few canoes were drawn up on the beach : one newly hollowed out from the trunk of a birch tree, pointed at either extremity, was only capable of carrying two persons ; the others were much larger, strong, and abrupt at either end, the stern being dis- tinguished from the stem by a shovel-shaped projection, inchning upwards from the bottom : the latter are used to convey timber from the rivers, or in the migratory rambles of the natives. The Ghiliacks were very civil, procured water, and assisted us in making a fire. The settlement consisted of three small and one large hut ; the latter, from the number of women and children within it, might be called a patriarchal domicile. The males were rather jealous of their wives, and frequently tried to hide them from view. The children, when sleeping, are confined in small oblong boxes : I had not an opportunity of observing if any parts of their bodies were subject to pressure, as amongst the Chinese. We gave them a supply of bread and tea, for which the poor people were very grateful. Their language is simple, and easily T 2 324 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. acquired. One of the Ghiliacks showed us a strong cage, in which he kept a young bear for some time, till Bruin grew strong enough to scrape a hole large enough for his body to pass through under the cage, and by this means escaped to the woods. Their mode of burial is unlike any other that I am acquainted with : the body is placed in a rude coffin made from a log of wood, in a manner similar to that adopted in making their canoes, and covered over with bark, bound round with osiers ; it is then placed between the forked branches of a tree, out of the reach of any animal that might be attracted to the spot. On the 2nd of July we left Barracouta Bay in company with H.M.SS. Pique, Byhille, and Hornet. The last few days had been characterised by heavy rain, which fell almost incessantly : the early mornings of one or two days were fine, but accompanied by heavy mists, which arose from the surface of the water and the saturated land around. The lily of the valley, in bloom, covered some of the hill sides ; it was pecu- liarly fragrant and beautiful, each footstalk bearing from eight to ten bells. Before we sailed I made many attempts to discover some trace of a written language amongst the Ghiliacks. I showed them Chinese, Japanese, Mongol, and Mantchu characters, but they did not recognise any of them ; I then placed a pencil and paper in the hands of the spokesman, but unfortunately he could not use the pencil. Whether the Ghiliack language is a corruption THE GHILIACK LANGUAGE. 325 of the Mongol, such as is spoken by the Tongoose and Yakutes, or belonging to the Tschudic tongue, as spoken by Finns, Samoyedes, Koriaks, and natives of the Kurile Islands, I am unable to determine. They cannot pro- nounce the letter " r," The following are some words in the Ghiliack tongue : — Hand . . Gna-lah. Button . To-hoh. Gun . . Mut-chah. Beetle . . . Quib-uk-Ka. Teeth . . Ic-tah. Crow . . Ga-ak. Nose . . Muck-shaw. Eiver . . Widhee. Ear . . She-ah. Eain . . Tig-dhu. Shoes . . Oontah. Forest . . . Dhu-way. Foot . . Bug-dhal. Moon . . Beagh. Dog . . £nock. Child . . . Nootch-Ka. Fish . . Nung-Yg. Man . . Besagdh. Salmon . . . Sook-Jah-sa. Net . . Ah ! Dhu-pih. Deer . . Talkee. Bark . . E-Wak-tha. Bear . . Mah-pah. God . Nang-ngha. Sun . . Sooh. Water . Moo. One . . 0-Mo-Ko. Sea. . . Na-Moo. Two , . Dhu. Grass . . Ook-tah. Three . . E-Lah. Cause . . Wilem-ak-dha. Four . . Dhee. Fire . , Thoh. Five . . Thungha. Saucepan . . Hat-chu-ah. Six . . Nung-O. Stone . . Jo-loh. Seven . . Nadha. Lip . . Hum. Eight . . Jah-pah. Whiskers . House, Nine . . Hoo-Yu. Chin . . Ge. Ten . . Jah. We sailed southward, and found the country much improved in appearance since last seen by us ; the trees being in full leaf, the delicate pale-green leaves of the birch contrasting agreeably with the dark foliage of the pine tribe. CHAPTER XXIV. Flora of Bullock Bay — Wood and water — The Fpupa — Sybille Bay— Tartars' early toilette— Grass Oula — Gnats and mosquitoes — Seals in Pique Bay — Excursion — Tartar horses — "Wild plants and wild fowls — Our canoe and voyage — Tartar houses — Return to Hakodadi — American seamen. We arrived in Bullock Bay on tlie 4tli of July : this bay is in latitude 45° 2' N. On our arrival, we saw about thirty bullocks lying on the beach. An armed party landed, and the animals, rather wary in the presence of strangers, attempted to escape ; not, how- ever, before three of them fell to the earth : a triangle was erected, and they were skinned, quartered, and hung up to cool. A few sportsmen also landed, and entered the oak wood, in an opposite direction to that of our last excursion. We ascended a woody hill, which rose from a wide plain of rich and soft young grass, above which the cotton rush showed its white silky plume ; between the trees the orange lily bloomed, and on the sunny side of the bank the wild strawberry, yellow and white ranunculus, and a plant resembling the heliotrope in flower and perfume ; the peony and the red dog rose were in profusion. Here also we found the pale blue geranium, meadow sweet, and the STRANGE APPEARANCE OF ROCKS. 327 well-known hawthorn. Grasshoppers, blue dragonflies, beetles, and mosquitoes were seen in numbers. Having reached the summit of the hill, we were surprised and delighted with the view before us. We stood on the edge of an abrupt and precipitous rock, whose base was washed by a placid lake, separated from the sea by a ridge of rocks ; a broad belt of oaks siu-- rounded it, and a natural low embankment separated it from the plain. From the position where we stood, a crescent of hills stretched round the greater part of the lake. This smooth sheet of water w^as fringed with reeds, rushes, and willows, from which the duck and teal occasionally took flight. To the left, and far away beyond the lake, the river, circuitous in its course, embraced by its branches some low flat islets, and was soon lost to view as it wound round the bases of some high mountains. At some distance to our right, a chain of hills led to the sea ; a wide valley, taking the same course, parted us from the hills. By an easy descent we reached the sea-beach, where we found the remains of a furnace, probably built by the crew of some whaler for the purpose of boiling oil. The appearance of some rocks overhanging the beach was strange in the extreme : it seemed a conglomerate of stones, of all shapes and sizes, mixed w^ith sea-shells, bound together by whitish cement, resembling felz spar, small red stones, green and white, and white with red veins, pebbles and lava, round and angular-like : in short, an immense mass of '' grout ^' a kind of concrete formerly used in the con- 328 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. struction of forts and castles ; and through this ran vertical and oblique seams of green-stone. The rock was upwards of one hundred feet above the level of the sea ; masses of it, undermined by the continual washing of the waves, and fallen from the parent rock, lay on the beach. Retracing our steps, we got into a broad marsh, where the iris was in full bloom, and reached the margin of the lake, which we skirted ; then crossing a creek, we entered a wood, which brought us to the banks of the river, where we found a number of disap- pointed fishermen, whose net had been torn by old trunks of trees, which lay on the bottom of the river. The hoopoe's monotonous notes resounded through the woods ; and young birds, as yet scarcely fledged, hopped from tree to tree. Naturalists say that the upupa do not perch on trees, and that they inhabit temperate regions ; but, as they are birds of passage, they may have paid this place but a passing visit : I did not see them on our late visit ; yet they must have brought forth their young in the woods here. Having got the bullocks on board, the captain and paymaster went in search of the owners, to pay for the slaughtered animals. They ascended a river for some miles, and, near a Tartar house, met with three men, one of whom appeared somewhat like a true Chinaman, with long tail, and dress similar to those at Shanghai. This man was spokesman, and appeared to be the owner of the cattle, for which he was paid perfectly to his satisfaction ; but he did not wish to part with any SYBILLE BAY. 329 more of them. He sold thirteen fowls for three dollars, and appeared to know the value of a dollar, as he weighed each one separately. This man had his head shaved like the true Chinese, and was most likely an emigrant from the northern provinces. Rice, potatoes, and onions, grew in gardens around the house. The potatoes were cultivated in ridges ; the rice was a species known as dry rice, which is cultivated in the south of Tartary. We left this place on the 5th, and steamed slowly along the coast in a southerly direction, till we r,eached Sybille Bay, a distance of twenty-seven miles from our last anchorage ; the country being as diversified and picturesque as can well be imagined. High-peaked mountains appeared in the distance ; nearer, wooded hills and winding valleys ; and, nearer still, broad park land, with gentle hillocks ; birch and oak being thinly scattered over them. A temperate day, with bright sun, caused the country to assume its most pleasing aspect. We could trace rivulets and streams by a line of rich verdure and willows. The coast line is not so bold as farther north, and exhibits headlands and banks of yellow clay and sand : one or two banks appearing like the chalk cliffs of England. Sybille Bay is in latitude 44° 43' N., and very beautifully situated ; the entrance is broad, and remark- able from having on either side some prominent pin- nacled rocks, high and isolated; the left side is high and rocky, with small deep valleys opening towards the 330 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. sea. Many large rocks lie along the beacli ; they are of compact crystalline structure, vitrified on the surface ; those washed by the sea are merely polished, not worn into holes or furrows, as in other parts. The right side consists of a series of hills, clay and sand. The bay is closed by a broad valley, through which some streams ramify, and form a small river, which empties itself into the bay. This valley is met by two others at right angles to it, their sides covered by a dense forest of oak and hazel. The bay becomes gradually shallow towards the valley ; the bottom is rocky, and covered by a thick growth of sea-weed, laminaria and fuci, and nearer the fresh water stream, with brownish green grass, such as grows in brackish water. At the early hour of 3 o'clock on the morning of the 7th, I landed with a sporting companion, on the left bank of the river, for an excursion after some deer which had been seen on the previous evening. We saw some smoke ascend from behind a hillock near us, and soon a dog came bounding towards us, wagging his tail in great glee; he turned round and led us to a temporary hut, where some Tartars were making an early toilet, and rolling up their skin beds preparatory to their departure for some other place. Matchlocks, bows and arrows were piled together in a corner of the hut; for they had been on a sporting expedition, and were now about to return to their homes. They removed the bark with which the hut had been covered to a large canoe drawn up on shore, and of a similar make to those MANTCHU TARTAES — 'INSECT TORMENTS. 1331 at Barracouta Bay. We asked one of tliem to act as guide in search of deer, but lie declined. They smoked incessantly ; their pipes were similar to those of China, but had valuable mouthpieces of jade stone. They were true Mantchu Tartars : they wore deerskin coats, and breeches of the same material, with short round hats ; their heads were unshorn, but gathered behind into two short tails. They had mocassins of birch-bark bound round with thongs of untanned hide ; before putting on these they envelop their feet in soft grass, in lieu of stockings. This grass, called Oida, is much prized, and grows plentifully on the banks of the Longari, which runs through Mantchouria. Having seen the Tartars fairly afloat, we pursued our journey, striking away from the main valley through a marsh, the sedge-grass and weeds of which reached my shoulders; a heavy dew had fallen during the night, and long ere the sun arose we were thoroughly wet. Crossing some streams we came upon a deer track ; the dew had been lately brushed off by the feet and body of the animal ; but we lost its traces at the margin of a forest. We skirted this forest for some time, and at length entered it ; our progress was tedious and difficult, owing to the thick growth of sapling oaks and hazel. The temperature increased as the sun got high up in the heavens, and clouds of large horse-flies, gnats, and mos- quitoes came buzzing around us, inflicting sundry sharp wounds on our exposed faces and hands ; they followed us everywhere during the day, pests to bipeds and 333 VOYAGE OP H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. quadrupeds alike. We selected a clear spot on the side of a hill for breakfast, one of us smoking to keep off the flies, whilst the other breakfasted : some of the large black flies measured nearly an inch in length. We rambled through the wood in every direction without success ; and the stillness of the solitude was only broken by the plaintive note of the hoopoe, the hammering of the woodpecker, or the chattering of some finches. Seeing, from the slow and dragging pace of my com- rade, that he was growing fatigued and would not hold out much longer, we made for the beach. Crossing the brow of a hill we got into a deeply wooded valley, where we met with some black swans ; we next reached the head of the main valley and crossed some streams ; then there was another hill, the brushwood being very thick, and plenty of flowers in bloom : the peony, rose, geranium, ranunculus, some handsome orchids, and a flowering shrub whose name I cannot recollect ; its flowers in clusters, the petals white, with yellow stamens, having a faint odour, sweet and agreeable, the floret cup-shaped, the leaves ovate, and of a pale green colour. After a long march we got within sight of the ship, and soon within sound of musket shot. We passed some freshly turned earth, where a bear had been grubbing for roots. We were soon on board, all right, as regards myself ; I could have walked for four hours longer without being over fatigued, but my companion was woefully done up, showing the necessity of regular exercise. PIQUE BAY. 383 The SyUlle, Fique, and Hornet, came in soon after our arrival. In the evening we steamed into an adjacent bay, on whose shores our Commander had seen some bullocks during the day, six of which he had purchasf^-^ at twenty dollars each, or nearly five pounds a nead. This anchorage is named Pique Bay. On the morning of the 9th I landed alone for an excursion ; the clouds were dark and lowering, the wind came in heavy gusts, and it had rained all night past ; at 9 a.m. the weather was a little more promising, besides I did not much mind a wetting. I beached the boat on a spit of sand which separates a river from the bay; a heavy surf rolling over the bar at the entrance to the river. Many seals reared their sagacious heads above the water as I passed, and the black divers flew in flocks around, but at a safe distance from the boat. Taking the right bank of the river, I slowly made my way through the long wet grass which covered the wide plain. The river is broad and shallow, and divided into many branches by some low alluvial islands. I intended, if possible, to reach a Mantchu viflage which I understood was eight miles off, but I knew not the exact position. One of our Chinese domestics who understood the characters but not the language of the Tartars, informed me that there was a city forty miles distant from our anchorage. The Tartars with whom we had to deal knew the value of dollars, but would prefer an equal weight of Sycee silver. Meeting with a beaten path along the bank of the 334 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. river, I followed it, and passed a long canoe drawn up on the beach. Some oars, hats, and a bag of skins lay in it, and near it were the remains of a recent fire. The canoe belonged to the Tartars who had gone to the hilly country in search of the bullocks. I entered an oak wood, and came upon an open glade of rich pasturage, where some pretty little horses were browsing at their ease ; they Avere well formed, with small heads and ears, clean legs, and switched tails, and so perfectly tame that they ate grass out of my hand. I wished for a bridle, for had I had one, I should have ridden the rest of my journey. Many squirrels leaped about (the striped ground, and the grey squirrel). On the margin of the wood there was a small hut, with a fenced garden before it ; but it was deserted, and must have been so for some time past, as the once trodden path to the door was grass-grown. I regained the bank of the river, where the branches of the trees on both sides met in the centre, and threw a dark shade over the stream, which flowed silently along between the long reeds and sedge upon its margin ; the wild duck leaving its nest, flitted restlessly along the surface of the water, for it was the brooding season, I sauntered leisurely along, examining the many plants which were now in flower around me — the iris and orange lily, the white hydrangea, and some labiate plants, the narcissus, and many species of orchids. With what delight did I gaze upon our own familiar white-thorn, though not in bloom, with its bright green leaf and straight thorn, with hardened point ; the A RIVER EXPLORATION. 335 leaves had the peculiar taste and perfume of the plant as it adorns the hedge-rows of old England. At noon I met with three of my brother officers, who had been away since early dawn in search of deer, and were now returning without success : they informed me that I was on an island, and that my walk would soon terminate, unless I was prepared for a swim. Their guns were loaded with ball, and as if to tantalise them, woodcock and wild duck got up at every pace they took, from grass and brushwood. I persuaded them to return, take the canoe, and explore the larger branch of the river. The canoe was rather ricketty for novices, but each person had an appointed place in the vessel where he squatted and seized an oar ; the duty of helmsman fell to my lot — a broad-bladed paddle acting the part of a rudder. As we pulled for the main branch, a stiff breeze drove the waves down the river, striking our canoe on the side and dashing a conside- rable volume of water over us ; however, we laughed ourselves dry. The river in parts was very deep, then again shallow, with scarcely a sufficient depth of water to keep us afloat. The branch we selected appeared to be the principal one in depth and breadth ; we pursued this for a few miles, till its termination in a narrow stream. It was evident that we had mistaken the proper branch, and would be compelled to return, or drag the canoe across a peninsula ; we adopted the latter alter- native, and with a few vigorous efforts we had our bark performing an overland route, and soon again in deep 336 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. water. This proving nothing more than a creek, we beached the canoe, and took to terra jirma. We descried, at some distance, a house, from which we were separated by a tract of land, that proved to be nothing more or less than a very wet marsh, with nume- rous streams in all directions ; we could not see them owing to the length of the grass, but of their existence we were made aware, from time to time, as we found our- selves up to the waist in mud and water. At last we got on to a freshly mown path which led to the house, through a garden pretty well cultivated, and having a good crop of potatoes, turnips, onions, beans, and garlic. A few dogs kept up a howl on our approach ; but as we advanced they retired, being very shy, with the excep- tion of one sturdy old fellow who was very likely the most faithful of the lot ; he lay down and never barked, but kept a watchful eye upon us. The house was empty, the residents were either hunting, or, being those from whom we obtained bullocks, were now away for some more. A large round stone was rolled against the door, keeping it shut ; there was no lock, or place for lock or bolt. The house resembled those in the North of China proper. It was built of stockades, with mud plaster, and thatched with dry sedge. A large window, framed diW^ papered, on either side of an ordinary door, admitted a dim light. Some outhouses projected at right angles from the dwelling, and were connected together in front by a high paling, in the centre of which there was a wide gate-way. This residence, so different in construe- TARTAR HOUSE. 337 tion from any lately seen by us, at once informed us that we were no longer amongst the primitive Gliiliacks. Some Avritten inscriptions, in Chinese characters, were pasted on the lintels of the gate-way and door of the house. The Chinese language is now forced upon the Mongol and Mantchu Tartars ; all public documents are published in Chinese characters, and though there are many authorised publications in the Mantchu tongue, yet the colloquial language is gradually becoming extinct. The Mongol is said to be a most musical language, but is fast giving place to the Chinese. I tried to distribute some of the Mantchu Testaments, but as yet I had found no person that understood a single character. In the outhouse were farming implements, such as the hoe, rake, shovel and spade ; fishing gear, a well made net, a trident and fishing spears. In the small courtyard, deer horns and legs, cows' hoofs and tails, hung around in strange disorder. On entering the house we were at once disagreeably sensible of the utter absence of ventilation ; a fire smouldered in the centre of a clay floor, and no exit for the smoke was perceptible. Some half dried fish, not over fresh, did not by any means improve the odour that pervaded the establishment. Square raised bed-places occupied corners on either side of the door : they were covered by thick mats, on which were piled some skins, which answered the purpose of bed clothes. The rafters were supported by wooden pillars, around which hung bows and arrows, matchlocks, quivers, hunting knives, and 338 VOYAGE OP H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. their pipes and tobacco pouches. Here also were clumsy wooden saddles covered with skins, unwieldy bridles, and rather weighty stirrup irons. There was but one apartment in this dark and dismal dwelling, and in a retired corner was a small place set aside for the Avorship of their gods. A representation of one was painted on the background of a small temple ; his godship being characterised by a very red face with scanty moustaches, eyes which appeared to take opposite views at the same time, and a paunch distended enough for the god Buddha himself. Before the picture, the usual offerings of fruit lay untasted ; joss- sticks and joss-papers, and a saucer of rancid oil with rush-light, cumbered the little altar, which was other- wise filthy. I copied the inscriptions, in order to have them translated. We withdrew to a bench in the garden, to discuss the merits of a large tin of preserved meat ; but on opening it we found to our grief that it was putrid. Our biscuit, too, had fallen into the river; but we washed some young onions, mixed some grog, and with the wet biscuit appeased hunger, which becomes rather craving in the regions of Tartary. In selecting the onions we made a slight mistake, and by partaking rather freely of young garlic instead of its milder relation, were for some days afterwards kept in quarantine. We then embarked in our canoe, avoiding as much as possible the marsh; and soon we floated down the stream, occasionally meeting with a shallow spot over which we dragged it. Leav- JAPANESE OFFICIALS. 339 ing the canoe in the place from which we had taken it, we walked through the water to cleanse our clothes from mud, and soon reached the beach, when we hoisted a signal for a boat, which was quickly answered. A boat neared us, and we walked out to meet her, cutting our way through the billows which deluged us, and in a few minutes were comfortably located on board the good ship. On the 10th July, we sailed from " Pique Bay," and on the 13th arrived at Hakodadi to meet His Excellency Rear- Admiral Sir Michael Seymour. We found the place just as usual, and the Japanese officials as inqui- sitive as to where we had been, and what we had seen. Did we expect any more ships ? We demanded vegetables for the crew, which Namaro, our old friend the interpreter, promised in very good English to send on the following morning " as soon as possible." Namaro had acquired a knowledge of English from the Dutch at Dezima, and was sent here to act as interpreter to remain for two years; but he did not much relish his position, and complained that the people of Hakodadi were " very Ioav." Part of the crew of an American whaler (the Endeavour) came on board on the morning of the 14th as distressed subjects of the United States : they had been whaling in the Gulf of Tartary, and were away in boats when a fog came on, preventing them from reaching their ship. They made for Matsmai, which place they reached in safety, thence they were z2 340 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. ^ despatched in a junk to Hakodadi, where they had been most hospitably treated by the Japanese. They were received on board the Bmracoida, to wait passage in one of H.M. ships of war to Hong Kong. CHx\PTER XXV. Summer evening in Japan— Tea party— Dancing— Japanese music— Evening costume — Pilchard fishing— Mode of preparing tlie oil — Temples— Bells — Decorations — Bonzes — Cemetery — Library — Buddhists — Sintoos — Foreign burial-place— Spanish guns — The vine— The town of Hakodadi — Shops — Doctor and daughters — Bazaar — Prices of provisions— Japanese politicians — Stores — Police. The afternoon was very inviting for a walk, the hot temperature having been cooled during the day by frequent showers. Two of my brother officers with myself landed for a walk to the Tea Gardens. Wild straw- berries along the hedge-rows by the side of the roads were ripe, large, and tempting to the eye ; beautifully marked beetles of many varieties ventured to taste of their sweetness, and seemed loth to part from the delicious fruit. We were about to follow their example, and had plucked a considerable number, Avhen we were informed by an old man that they were very poisonous, causing swellings of the face, hands and legs. We were thankful for the timely warning, and wondered that anything so fair could prove so false. After a pleasant walk, which we varied by a turn through a fishing village, (where we were an object of admira- tion to the children and uneasiness to the dogs), we 342 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BAERACOUTA. reached the Tea Garden, which was now in the midst of summer lovehness ; the water Hly in bloom floated on the surface of the artificial lake, and flowers and shrubs bloomed in pots, and out of pots, betw^een the crevices of rock work, or climbing over treUis work, forming " shady nooks," where you might hear '' the gentle lover or the plover in the afternoon." We paid a visit to the jolly hostess and the fair dames of the inn — one of whom, by the bye, said she had looked for my return, and had reared a kitten for me ; for which I thanked the fair creature, telling her I should take another opportunity for calling for her present. We pursued our peregrinations through the garden, and suddenly came upon a social party of Japanese ladies and gentlemen at tea in a pretty summer house. We bowed to them on passing, and as we did not wish to intrude upon their privacy, were about to withdraAv, when a young gentleman arose, came towards us, and begged us to enter and partake of some tea. We gladly acceded to his request, and were soon at ease with our new acquaintances. Small square tables of lacquered ware, about a foot and a half in height and six inches square, were placed on the right side of the Japanese ; these supported cups of tea, sweetmeats, cakes, and small lacquered bowls of rice and fruit. Four married ladies sat together on one side, and near them an old gentle- man ; opposite sat a young Japanese officer and two young ladies, one about seventeen years of age, the other about twenty : the latter were very pretty. We little A JAPANESE TEA PARTY. 34,3 dreamed of seeing such beauties in this retired spot ; their skins clear and white as that of a Circassian, with a healthy blush on their cheeks, which required not the assistance of the rouge-box ; finely arched brows, over bright black eyes, which grew brighter when the owners became animated, and were shadowed by long curling eyelashes : noses small but straight, one bordering on aquiline ; small well cut lips, surrounded by even rows of teeth, of pearly lustre. Their jet black hair was brushed from the sides and back of the head, and fas- tened in a knot on the top of the head, by a fillet of pale pink silk. The elder was the handsomer of the two, and the chief object of attraction to the young officer ; as he frequently gave us an opportunity of observing, by placing an arm around her waist and looking lovingly into her eyes. There was gracefulness in all her atti- tudes, especially when she took up a guitar at the request of her lover, and played a few airs for us ; but the music was rather monotonous and without harmony : at least our dull ears could not detect any. She accom- panied herself in a song, in a falsetto tone : a species of whine, not altogether so discordant as that of the Chinese, yet merely bearable from its strangeness. The sister now joined in a duet, one endeavouring to outshriek the other. Our elder hosts were in raptures with the performance, and they wondered at our stolidity ; but our ears had been accustomed to the music of Grisi and Mario, and could not end are even the finest of Japanese singers. 344 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. Finding the ladies so obliging, we prevailed upon one to play whilst the other danced. The performance was peculiar ; she went round the apartment, as in a slow waltz, making graceful passes with her hands, and hum- ming an air to herself, smiling most agreeably, and bow- ing towards us as she went round. They were attired in richly embroidered silk : a loose tunic with wide sleeves, was fastened round the waist by a broad sash of pale pink ; a fan was passed through this, and, support- ing the back of each lady was a tricornered flat board, covered with parti-coloured silk. The married ladies were attired in robes of a fabric resembling cashmere, and of a sombre lavender colour. After tea they introduced pipes and some light wine. The Japanese tobacco is very mild and without flavour, so we requested that they would permit us to light cheroots instead, according to our own custom. They examined our uniform minutely, asking the English name of each part of it, and pronouncing each word separately after us. We regretted that the coming night warned us that it was time to leave our agreeable companions ; and as it is very seldom that one meets Avitli the respectable classes of Japanese enjoying themselves after the peculiar modes of their own nation, or are admitted as partakers of their hospitalities, Ave more than once wished for a renewal of our acquaintance. Making our best bows, and shaking hands with them individually, we cordially wished them a very good evening. As I was leaving, the officer begged me to accept a coin, which I did on JAPANESE COIN — PILCHAKD FISHING. 34.5 his receiving from me a small new silver coin of Her Most Gracious Majesty's reign. The Japanese coin is about two inches in length, oblong, of the thickness of a penny, with raised margin and inscription on both sides, and has a square hole in the centre. At this season of the year, pilchards enter the bay in great numbers. Temporary sheds had therefore been erected along the shore during our absence, and long nets were hung out to dry on palings, and on a fine summer's evening I observed that numerous small fishing-boats had gone out to the mouth of the bay. There was not a breath of wind to ruffle the surface of the water, yet in certain parts of the bay the water had that peculiar appearance known to sailors as " cats' paws," from sudden gusts of wind disturbing the calm. On this occasion the appearance was owing to the pOchards coming in from the deep to shallow water to deposit the spawn. 346 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BAREACOUTA. The Pilchard {Clupea pilchardus) frequents the coast of Japan in the latter part of the month of- June and commencement of July. They are taken by the seine, which is drawn along by boats towards the shore. Hav- ing arrived in water a little shallower than the seine, the boats approach so as to bring the ends of the net together ; the bulk of the fish are now removed by hand-nets, and the remainder dragged on shore. Without the precaution of removing a great part of the fish, the net would be torn to pieces, from the immense weight. Some of the pilchards find their way to market, and, when fresh are sweet and nutritious ; but they are chiefly valued for their oil. They are piled in heaps on the shore for twenty-four hours, and then thrown into caldrons with sufficient water to prevent their burning ; they are boiled for some time, and then ladled into square presses. These presses are made very strong ; the sides are of thick deal, with vertical chinks at intervals ; and around the bottom of the press a narrow trough leads to a main one, which conveys the compressed oil and water into another caldron, A man with lever and fulcrum forces the fluid from the press, till the residue contains not a drop of oil. The crude oil and water in the second caldron is then subjected to a gentle heat, and the oil floating on the top is skimmed into a third caldron, and allowed to settle and become clear ; from this it is ladled into casks, bunged, and sent to difi'erent parts of Japan. The oil is used for various purposes, especially for lamps ; it is clear, of a SINTOO AND BUDDHIST TEMPLES. 347 dark brown colour, and unmistakeablc fishy odour. The refuse is taken from the presses, and spread on mats to dry in the sun. When perfectly dry it is put in storehouses, and used in the spring as manure for rice and other vegetables. There are many oil factories along the shore, and one or two private ones where the owners make a little for their own use ; the boilers, presses, and vats are of a very primitive fashion, and the process is conducted in a slovenly manner. One old fellow at work had a face as red as a confirmed old toper, and was as drunk as a lord. Flocks of sea-gulls follow the pilchard ; and pounce down upon them, not without success. They have also aquatic enemies as well as enemies aerial and terrestrial : the dog-fish pur- sues them from the bays, and the little creatures endea- vour to escape by skimming the surface of the water — a truly short respite. There are many large temples for worship at Hakodadi — Sintoo and Buddhist — some of the latter gorgeously decorated, well constructed, and highly finished. They are generally situated in the more elevated and retired parts of the town, and partially encircled by trees. Pass- ing through a narrow street, I ascended a gently sloped hill, and came upon a shady road, running parallel to the main street, and on the brow of the hill. Private resi- dences, neat and white, peeped from cedar and cypress bowers. A conspicuous stone entrance to a temple almost faced the road by which I ascended. Large old pines and chesnuts threw a shadow on the gateway, within 348 VOYAGE OP H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. which, and to the right, was a belfry, with a large bell suspended, deep and heavy, and richly carved. This is struck at different hours of the day ^vith a heavy wooden mallet, and the sound, mellow and sonorous, is heard far away over the water : when it sounded in the even- ing, " 'twas like the vesper bell." The entrance opens into a large court, which is kept neat and clean, and at the further end is the temple ; a curious structure, very large, almost square, with a broad flight of steps running across the entire length of the building ; the ridge of the tiled roof terminating in two grotesque points. From this to the eaves, Avhicli project very much, the roof is gradually curved : the angles terminating in carved dragons, with tails twisted and curled in all directions. The wooden front of the temple was decorated with various carvings in wood and brass. Ascending the steps, and pushing aside one of the sliding doors of the great entrance, I found myself in a most spacious apartment, " a dim religious light " being admitted through sundry small windows and apertures. Fine wooden pillars in double rows around the interior supported the roof and rafters ; the latter are of a hard wood, deeply stained and highly polished. The exterior row of pillars, with the sides and ends of the apartment, form a corridor or gallery, which is highly polished. It is separated by a narrow ledge from the inner or sacred place, the floor of which is covered by thick matting, extending to the table before the altar. The altar is highly embellished with tinsel- work, lamps and censers, and large gilded gods BONZES OP A BUDDHIST TEMPLE. 349 are placed upon it ; the presiding deity being Budsda or Buddha. Kneehng-cushions are placed at various places before the idols, and overhead are suspended large bells and drum, tom-tom and lamps. On the left of the altar there is a deep recess, where rows of ancestral tablets stand in order, thickly placed step over step, and before them small vases filled with the ashes of joss-sticks. Por a time I was led to believe that these vases contained the ashes of the deceased to whose memories the tablets had been raised ; but the bonzes undeceived me. The tablets were of lacquered ware, and had the names, ages, and virtues of the deceased inscribed upon them. A good-humoured bonze, or priest, now approached, and invited me to Tcha and Tabac. lie led me by a private way to the priests' apartments, which formed one side of the court-yard, projecting from the temple, and at right angles to it. Here was the usual elevated kitchen, with sitting-rooms, sleeping-rooms, and studies apart from it. A goodly number of priests, fat and lazy, surrounded me ; their faces of the consistence and com- plexion of tallow, and their small eyes appeared too heavy to open. They were encased in grey robes, and the loose tunic folded down on the closely shorn neck, left the front of the chest exposed to view. They were civil and polite as the Japanese usually are, and I was much amused at their anxiety to learn something of the English language, while they added considerably to my stock of Japanese. I do not know if celibacy is strictly enjoined on these 350 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. devout men, but unless there was a convent attached, I could not account for the number of women and gh'ls who jomed us from time to tmie as we sat sipping our tiny cups of tea. I had a small flask of brandy with me, Avhich their reverences thought very good ; and so did some of the black-teethed dames : the hideous custom of blackening the teeth after marriage completely alters 1 the appearance of the face, taking away every trace of beauty. I remarked that the Japanese in sitting do not adopt the custom of resting on the sides of their legs, when bent beneath them, like many of the eastern nations ; but on the heels — a most painful mode for those unaccustomed to it. In the rear of the Temple is a cemetery, in a grove of cypress, pine and flowering shrubs. Some of the monuments have railings around them, and a neat simplicity is exhibited in their structure : an obelisk or oblong pillar of fine granite on a square pedestal is a common form ; a short sentence in Japanese is deeply cut on the front of the pillar ; and some are decorated with the raised crest of the deceased, Avhicli is frequently gilded : beneath repose the remains of the deceased. On the other side of the courtyard opposite the residences of the bonzes, a neat square building stands alone, the external wall being finely plastered and almost snow white, the roof tiled and a sample of neat work- manship. The approach to the entrance, is by a flight of smooth sand-stone steps, and the upper part of the door is framed with wire gauze to admit light and air ; through RELIGION OF THE JAPANESE. 351 this I conld perceive a large collection of books piled together in something like order. In the middle of the yard were some fine old willows, a few stone idols elevated on heavy stone pedestals, and a fine draw-well with bucket and wheel, covered by a small shed of white deal. In many of the temple yards are small joss- houses for minor deities, such as the God of the Seas. These small temples are usually decorated with pictures of ships in storms, or models of junks ; and here I have frequently seen the wives of absent mariners down on their knees singing out their prayers, at the same time hammering away on an old drum. The old religion of the country is the Sintoo ; but the Buddhist, which has found its Avay from India to this country, has the greater number of followers. The Buddhists believe in the transmigration of souls ; that beasts have souls as well as human beings ; that there is a devil as well as a God ; that our punishments hereafter will be in proportion to our wickedness on earth; and that we may be doomed to revisit the earth in the bodies of beasts. The followers of the Sintoo religion believe in an all-powerful and invisible Supreme Being, whom they worship ; and likewise in many minor deities, whose duties are to look after things in general : they do not believe in the transmigration of souls. From everything I could learn, the Sintoo religion closely resembles that of Confucius ; it being one of morality and good works on earth. Its disciples eat not of animal food, con- sidering that it renders them unclean; and, like the 353 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. Confucians, their temples are neat and unadorned, save by miiTors, sheets of white paper or prayer-mats : every article is neat and well cared for. The priests closely resemble the bonzes, but that some of them wear black caps with long tassels ; and, like the bonzes, they shave the head and neck. The place set apart for the burial of strangers is at some distance from the town, on the brow of a hill near to the batteries, which are situated on the east of the entrance to the harbour ; and it is overgrown with weeds. Some French of H.I. M.S. Constantine and some English sailors of PI. M.S. Winchester lie buried here, side by side with some Russians, a rude wooden cross marking the grave of each. A strong railing surrounds the graves of these once hardy sailors, reposing in peace from the turmoils of the world ; enemies no longer : mother earth removes all distinctions of country, race, or creed. The American burial-place is smaller but much neater ; a decent slab marks the grave of each citizen of the United States, and some shrubs have been tastefully planted around them. We saw some very old guns near the graves, Spanish made and marked, 1568 ; the Spanish arms being embossed on the barrel near to the breech. The vine is cultivated on trellises before the doors of many of the country houses ; but the grapes are very small. It grows wild on the hills, winding its tendrils around the nearest bush or briar, or forming a network with the creeping branches of the Smilax, which cover the hill-sides, usurping the place of more useful plants. JAPANESE STEEETS AND SHOPS. 353 I was surprised that such a frugal race as the Japanese would allow so much valuable land as is in the vicinity of Hakodadi to run wild ; even the pasturage is encroached upon by dwarf oaks, vines, Smilacc and briars : the soil is a rich black loam, more than two feet in depth. The streets of Hakodadi are built in regular order, in parallel rows, connected by cross streets. Few of the houses are more than one storey in height, with an attic which is used as a store room. The houses are built of wood, with but few exceptions ; the roofs are low, tiled, almost flat, and covered with a layer of large round stones : a large bucket of water is also placed upon the roof, in case of fire — a very necessary pre- caution, as owing to the structure of the houses, fires are prevalent, and spread with alarming rapidity. The fronts of the houses are open to the street ; deep projecting eaves keep off the rain or strong sunbeams. At night the fronts are closed by folding doors, or rather sliding shutters, which run in a groove to the end of the house, where they are received in a box-like receptacle. As most of the houses with open fronts are shops, one description will serve for all. The apartment open towards the street is used as the shop ; here on an elevated floor, sits the owner, or some member of the family, shoeless, surrounded by various wares for sale. Charcoal stoves, crockery of all descriptions, metals, sandals, umbrellas, calicoes, picture books, childrens' toys, pipes, tobacco pouches, tobacco 354- VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. cut as fine as floss silk, knives, stewpans, coarse lac- quer-ware, common silks and oiled paper garments ; all these are hung around or ranged on shelves. On entering a shop such as I have described, which is one of the commoner sort, you are invited to sit down. The vendor meanwhile passively smokes his pipe, empties the ashes and refills ; this he does for six or eight times, and with an exclamation between a sigh and a grunt, retires to cleanse his mouth and returns. His curiosity to examine the dress and appearance is less impulsive than that of the young boys and girls, who crowd around, repeating their stock of English without ceasing — " Good day, English ; 0-hi-oh, Ni]j07i!" — "How you do, English," and "Very good — Go Custom House." Behind the shop are the sleeping apartments and kitchen ; in the latter apartment the process of cooking appears to be continually going on ; fish-soup being boiled with solid pieces of fish cut up and added from time to time : this forms a staple dish, and is very nutritive. Much pains is taken in the cooking of rice, and when served up in small red lacquered bowls it is quite tempting, being white and dry, and each grain distinctly separate : it is eaten with chopsticks, as in China. Tea is partaken of at all hours of the day as ordinary drink. The Japanese tea lacks the delightful aroma of the Chinese tea, and to those accustomed to the latter, would not aff'ord any treat. The plant is cultivated as in China, and grows on the hill-sides, from seeds. The leaves are JAPANESE TEA — SILK SHOPS. 365 plucked tliree times during the year ; first, in early spring when the plant is in bud : this answers to the " gunpow- der " of China. The second gathering takes place in the beginning of May, when the tea resembles "Young Hyson." The last gathering takes place at the com- mencement of July, when the leaf is at its full growth ; this harvest is the principal one of the year, the teas answering to the ordinary black tea of China. Each gathering is dried separately in pans over charcoal fires, and packed for sale. Japan does not grow a sufficient quantity of tea for the use of its inhabitants ; a large supply is imported in junks from Chinese ports. The silk shops are well Avorth an inspection ; there are most delicate crapes of bright colours well fixed, from true scarlet to that pale delicate blue which so well becomes the English blonde ; then there is white with embroidered figures ; also, silks raw, refined, spun and woven, of delicate hues ; good for wearing, but in my opinion not to be compared to those of Canton, A material made from hemp fibre, or from the fibre of the full grown nettle, and printed cottons, also form dresses for the poorer classes. Silk shops belong to the higher class of merchants ; the style and furniture of the house denoting a superior rank ; the sitting rooms are generally hung round with pictures, and at the rear of the house is a small courtyard with a little garden, where dwarf plants are grown around miniature lakes, in the midst of grottoes, or on little mounds ; the winding paths being covered with fine gravel. 356 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. A few doors from the principal silk shop of the town there resided, at the time of om- visit, a respectable old physician, whose medical establishment was the daily resort of many loungers. Whether they felt an inward pleasure in listening to the sage remarks of the good old man, or that they admired two lovely daughters who occasionally showed themselves, I leave the reader to determine ; I can only speak for myself, and candidly confess that had they been very plain, my visits would not have been so frequent, nor should I have taken such pleasure in teaching them the un- musical language of Old England. The doctor, like many other sons of JEsculapius, was attired in black robes, to assist in giving a sombre aspect to his intel- lectual face : medical men are supposed to look grave at all times, and to assume a portentous expression of countenance, as if they implied, "I am Sir Oracle, and when I ope my mouth let no dog bark." The old doctor showed me many of his patients ; some afflicted with ophthalmia (hopeless cases) ; others with scabies, herpes, and many other skin diseases. He described his method of treatment, which had not been very successful ; indeed, the only part of it which met with my approval was the daily use of the warm bath. At first I thought there was but one bath-house ; I now discovered that there were four in the town, and between sunrise and sunset they were never empty. The only surgical instruments used by the doctor were needles and moxas. His shop was well stocked with simples : 1 JAPANESE DOCTOR — BAZAAR AT HAKODADI. 857 roots cut, sliced, and pounded ; barks and leaves, dried snakes, deer's horns, fish-skins, and minerals ; also various preparations of arsenic and mercury, crystallised calomel, and crystallised vermilion. Along the sides of the streets on fine days I observed large quantities of sea-weed spread on mats to dry : this, the Fucus saccharinus, is collected along the coasts, and brought into town packed in bundles on the backs of horses. It is thoroughly and frequently washed, till every trace of sand and salt is removed, and is then bleached in the sun till it becomes perfectly white and fit for use. Much is exported from Hakodadi to the southern provinces. The usual mode of preparing it for food is by boiling, when it becomes soft and thick. It is occa- sionally eaten in an uncooked state, with tea or saki. The bazaar, which was established some time since for the sale of provisions and curiosities to foreigners, was the usual rendezvous for officers from the ships of the squadron. It was situated in the priest's apart- ments attached to a temple, a little way removed from the main street. A long and low apartment, forming one side of a square or court-yard, was fitted up with tables ; one running the entire length of the building, others fitted close to the side walls, and also reaching from end to end of the room ; and some placed across : a retired corner, furnished with mats and tables, was set apart for the officials who superintended the sales. The further end opened, through lattice-work and shding- doors, on to a garden filled with a profusion of flowers, 358 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA, grottoes, lakes, rockeries, and weeping trees ; the willow and sycamore, the mulberry and chestnut, shaded the serpentine walks, and the cypress and cedar were evi- dently in their native soil. Each morning the bazaar was opened in form by a band of officials, who in solemn state marched from the Government House, with spears, banners, and axes borne before them : they looked awfully grand, and seemed sufficiently impressed with ideas of their own importance. There were also inter- preters, custom-house officers, spies, and understrappers ; each one keeping a watchful eye on his neighbour. Having taken their seats, opened their sale books, and filled their pipes, the signal was given that the bazaar was opened for the day. Immediately men laden with the choicest articles of the shops began coming in, and unburdening themselves, laid the wares out in order for sale ; and when all were exposed to view the sight was novel and imposing. Amongst them were lacquered cups, blue, black, and green, with raised figures gilded on the outside, internally red, and pro- vided with covers of the same shape, but larger than the bowls ; and large bowls of the same material, but of superior workmanship, with figures of birds or tortoises most exquisitely raised ; the prices of course proportion ably dear. Mats or trays of cedar, beau- tifully lacquered, of various patterns : some of them representing raised and gilded storks stealing from a marsh to pounce on an unfortunate fish, or a tortoise wending his weary way over a hillock, whilst the JAPANESE WARE PAPER COATS. 359 moon peeps through a gilded cloud : some of the trays margined by wreaths of bamboo, or the Pyrus, or Camellia Japonica. Fine egg-shell chinaware, very thin and very expensive; thicker porcelain vases, inkslabs, Japan ink, and pencils. Mariners' compasses of many sizes, with sun-dials : the workmanship of these articles might vie with the best produced by the manufacturers of Birmingham; the needle on a pivot pointed to the points of the compass, which were carved on a circle of polished white metal, the space in which it revolved being glazed ; it was enclosed in a small copper box, with hinge and catch; the upper lid of which, when thrown back, displayed a circular cavity with a central pivot, surrounded by a rim similar to that around the needle. When closed it could be suspended by a copper loop from any part of the dress. One purchased by me, when compared with the standard compass of the Barracouta, was per- fectly correct. Small tinselled household josses, large trays, tobacco-pipes and pouches, picture books, dolls and Japanese sandals, were in abundance. The most singular articles were oiled paper coats, made from the bark of a species of mulberry. Sheets of this paper are cut by a pattern to the shape of a coat or cloak, stitched or gummed together, oiled and painted — that is, the outer layer, for it is double— black or green ; the inner layer or lining is merely oiled. These coats are very durable so long as they are preserved from nails, sharp stones, or branches of trees ; which rip them 360 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. up as SO much tissue paper. In a retired and distant part of the apartment the sale of fish and vegetables was carried on with much spirit and vigour on the part of the purchasers ; while in the upper department dollars quickly changed owners : each of us, thinking of friends at home, invested dollars as if the purse of Fortunatus was at hand : everything was sold at a high rate. In passing any of the shops, should a person fancy an article, he cannot purchase it in the shop, it must be sent to the bazaar ; and a heavy duty is levied on each article sold : we paid the officials for the articles purchased good Mexican dollars, and they paid the unfortunate vendors in Japanese dollars, not half the weight of the Mexican. Each article sold is noted down in a book by a clerk, and a full report of the sales is furnished to the higher authorities every evening. I did not take much interest in the prices of the edibles, so I take the liberty of copying from a paper of Mr. Richards, commanding H.M.S. Saracen, a list of prices : — On Arrival. Before Leaving. Dol. cts. Dol. eta. Eggs, per hundred . . 1 00 Eggs, per hundred . . 2 00 Eresh Herrings . . . 50 French Beans, 40 lb. . . 1 00 Salmon, per dozen . . 2 00 Salmon, per dozen . . 3 00 Flat Fish . • . . 1 00 Flat Fish . . . . 3 00 Sweet Potatoes, per picul, Onions, 20 lb. . . .1 00 130 lb 2 00 Turnips, 30 lb. . . . 1 00 Smoked Salmon, per dozen . 2 00 Smoked Salmon . . . 3 00 Water per ton . . . 50 Cucumbers, per hundred . 1 50 Salt Salmon, per dozen . . 1 75 Salt Salmon, per dozen . 2 25 Wood, per fathom . . 2 25 Salt, per 20 lb. . . . 50 Rice, per picul . . . 4 60 Small melons, each . . 50 Pears, per basket of 60 .0 75 JAPANESE POLITENESS — FIRE-PROOF STORES. 361 In walking through the streets of a Japanese town, one's attention is frequently attracted by the poHte conduct evinced by the people, no matter of what class or station. When two persons, acquaintances, meet, on approaching they both make a low bow, passing the hands down the legs, and bending the body so as to rest on the hands below the knees ; they also make a deep inspiration, sounding some aspirate, something like " Oh " slowly pronounced, and pass on their way. The only modes of conveyance from place to place by land are on horses or in norimons, a sort of box closely resembling a dog kennel in shape and size, with poles passed through iron loops on either side ; the individual to be carried squats down inside, and is borne on the shoulders of two sturdy coolies, who are relieved from time to time. Fire-proof stores are placed in different parts of the town ; they are very strongly built, the thick walls white-washed, and furnished with deep window-gratings and massive shutters : for some time I mistook them for prisons. I paid a farewell visit to the bath-house ; the people took not the slightest notice of us, though some ardent students of external anatomy paid daily visits. Since our first visit, new barracks had been erected on a commanding spot over-looking the town, with earth-works thrown up around it. From an elevated terrace vigilant sentries kept watchful eyes upon all our movements : sometimes when far out in the country we would fancy that we were at last away 362 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA, from the evil eyes of these over-officious mortals ; but we could soon perceive by the anxious countenances of the peasants that our friends were not far in the rear. They made frequent attempts to curtail our walks, but did not once succeed ; indeed, we kept them continually under a species of physical training during our stay; yet though they looked forward with pleasure for our departure, they never had the politeness to thank us for their improvement in health and agility. It being necessary for us to leave the shore for the ships each evening at sunset, every road, street, and secluded nook was explored by our sworded gentry in search of stray Englishmen ; when they saw us all afloat and no stragglers abroad, they breathed easily for the night, and slowly wended their way to their homes and wives, suppers and pipes ; whilst the night watchmen com- menced their rounds, beating the hours on two pieces of bamboo, with a dull monotonous sound. The Japanese are very good tempered : I never witnessed at Hakodadi a solitary instance of any man, official or otherwise, lose his temper. Certainly we never gave them cause, as, on board or ashore, we were civil to them, and at all times glad to meet their views or gratify a laudable curiosity. On the 16th of July Sir Michael Seymour joined us in H.M.S. Winchester, bringing in his flag-ship a large supply of sheep and bullocks for the squadron ; a very thoughtful and kind act on his part. We sailed for Barracouta Bay on the 21st ; the Pique having sailed a SAIL FOR THE COAST OF TARTARY. 363 few days previous for Castries Bay, to land some of the Russian prisoners who had been detained in the squadron. The Fique joined us at Barracouta Bay on the 26th, and on the 31st the squadron sailed for the coast of Tartary. During our short stay on this occasion the weather was very unpleasant: rain with thunder and lightning, succeeded by fogs ; then rain again. The ground was literally saturated with moisture, and the grass was long and dank : various plants were in full bloom. The natives brought plenty of salmon alongside, small, but sweet and delicate. Some of the crew procured an abundance of carp with line and hook, Uaing dough for bait ; also some very fine rock cod. CHAPTER XXVL Coasting — Fogs — Port Seymour — Exploring Gilbert's River — Unfriendly Tartars — Target practice — Islands — Rocks of Port Seymour — Victoria Bay — Napoleon gulf— Fishing boats — Port Dundas — Mantchu Tartars at Supper — At Rifle practice — Port May — Port Bruce — Houses — Hornet Bay. With the Winchester in tow we sailed on the 31st down the Gulf. On the 2nd of August a fine breeze came on from the north-east ; we cast off" the frigate, and at noon reached latitude 45° 31' north: our des- tination being in latitude 43° 36' north. The country is very hilly, with an abrupt rocky coast ; stunted oaks grow in the valleys and on the hills. The mountains in parts are in steppes, or plains, one above another, clothed in rich green verdure ; and many of them terminate in sharp conical peaks. Tartary may be truly called " the land of grass." On the 3rd, a dense fog came on, compelling us to anchor in 25 fathoms of water ; the fog became con- densed on the rigging and sails of the ship, and fell on the deck in large drops : it cleared away at sunset. We then found that we were in a bay or inlet, the coast high and rocky ; and by the ship's reckoning we were PORT SEYMOL'R. 3G5 not more than twenty miles from the entrance to Port Seymour, for which place we were bound. In the early part of the forenoon we caught some gurnard in 51 fathoms. The Wincheder anchored close to us, and next morning we took her in tow ; keeping as near the coast as possible so as to avoid the fog, which was rapidly approaching from seaward, and eventually brought us to a full stop till near sunset, when it cleared away and we entered Port Seymour. On either side of the entrance the coast is very abrupt and rocky ; the rocks composed of granite full of rifts in all directions. Brydone Island stands in the mouth of the port : it is high and conical ; some hidden rocks he between it and the mainland on the north. Port SejTnour was discovered and surv^eyed by Capt. Forsyth, of H.M.S. Hornet ; the obsenation spot within the port being in latitude 43^ 46' north, and longitude 135^ 19' east. It is open to the south-east, and is protected by high land from the north-east and south- westerly winds. The anchorage is safe, and plenty of wood and water can be procured. A large river (Gilbert River) empties itself into the north-west angle of the port. A party arranged to start on an expedition to explore Gilbert Eiver, and accordingly on the morning of the 6th, having partaken of a hasty breakfast, we left the ship a Httle after 4 o'clock a.m., in a well-manned boat. We were dressed in all sorts of strange attire, more like a party of gold diggers from Ballaarat than a number of officers in Her Majesty's navy ; for on this 366 VOYAGE OP H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. occasion we studied comfort more than appearance. The day promised to be hot; but we were prepared for all weathers, hot or cold, wind or rain, and cheerfully entered the river. The mouth is broad but shallow, and soon deepens when once over the bar. The river flows in the bed of a deep valley, with high mountains on either side of it, and few places are void of vegetation, save some abrupt and precipitous crags ; the valley itself consisting of marshy and turfy land, with flat islands in the course of the river. After a couple of hours' progress we found the river divided into branches ; we sounded and took the deepest com'se, but after a little while found that it grew so very shallow and narrow, that some of the crew were obliged to take to the water and tow the boat along. The sun by this time had risen high over the topmost hills in the east, and long before the clouds had been tinged with the red blush of cheerful morning. Leaving some islands on the right, where the willow, oak, and hazel overhung the stream, we kept close to the steep shore, and found the water deep : we saw some footprints of deer in the sand by the water's edge. At 8 o'clock thinking it high time for breakfast, we drew the boat into a deep and shady creek, and landed. Soon all hands were busy, some cutting timber, others lighting fires, or drawing forth comestibles and arranging them for our repast ; and though last, not least, the amateur cooks, with frying pans and kettles vigorously commenced their operations. Bearing GILBERT RIYER. 367 in mind the old proverb about "too many cooks," I strolled away with N to inspect our ])osition and look out for Tartars. We struj^ded alono- throiifrh young oaks, long grass, and wild flowers, such as lilies and peonies ; and climbing up a craggy rock had a fine view of the surrounding country ; the river winding round rocky promontories, still keeping in the course of the valley, and oft dividing into small branches, or tributary streams. In the broad bed of the valley, and not very far from our present position, we were agreeably surprised to perceive many Tartar houses, with fields of cultivated land around them. We descended the hill, with appetites rather improved by the walk, and on nearing our bivouac passed a small bark hut, too small for any one to enter, even on hands and knees. We saw within it a bowl, with chopsticks, a small pan, and basket ; and a mound of fresh earth was piled up before the door, evidently covering, a grave : the hut, no doubt, was built for the purpose of fulfilling some superstitious rites similar to those prac- tised by the Chinese, who place food and drink on or near the graves of their relatives, that the soids of the departed may be refreshed occasionally. Having breakfasted, gathered up the fragments, and taken our places in the boat, we resumed our journey ; our course being occasionally obstructed by old trunks of trees which lay on the bottom of the river. Trout in abundance leaped at the passing flies, or the downy flowers of the willow. The stream gradually became 368 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BAREACOUTA. narrower and very shallow, and by 11 o'clock we were aground on coarse shingle. Here we found some canoes drawn up on the beach, which we determined upon appropriating ; at least for a time. On carrying our determination into execution, we were rather surprised by a volley of musketry which poured through a grove on our right ; whiz, whiz, came the shot through the trees, fortunately over our heads, lopping off twigs and branches. It was necessary to put a stop to this amusing pastime, so we seized our rifles, sprang ashore, ran through the grove, and found ourselves face to face with about two dozen Tartars, who were drawn up in order, quietly reloading. A narrow creek separated us, which we speedily crossed, when our opponents, seeing that we were fully armed, lowered the muzzles of their match- locks, and advanced with smiles of peace beaming on their fat visages. We went through a series of pan- tomimic performances, bowing and scraping ; and an elderly man with white beard and moustache, who appeared to be the principal personage, invited us to his house ; we accordingly followed him, the body of the Mantchu heroes, with shouldered matchlocks, bringing up the rear. On entering the black and smoky habitation we were invited to sit down and make our- selves at home ; but, like the other Tartar houses we had entered, the strong smell of smoke, in combination with the odour of rancid fish, excited in us a lively desire to breathe the fresh air ; so we arose and thanking them for their courtesy withdrew to the exterior of the TARTAR RIFLE PRACTICE. 369 building, where a large number of Tartars had con- gregated for target practice. A paddle blade was fixed in a potato field at a distance of about eighty yards: a Tartar advanced, raised his matchlock, fired, and struck the mark — a feat which elicited much applause from his confreres .• he was evidently the marksman of the party, and had been selected to show out on this occasion. One of the officers with a rifle next fired and missed the object, a signal for derisive laughter ; then two of our blue jackets fired, and struck it in succession. Lieutenant N substituted a bottle on a stick, and gave the Tartars a trial ; they missed it : he then fired, and smashed the bottle : I repeated the experiment, and did likewise. Nothing could now induce them to make another trial. The land around was well cultivated : there was barley nearly ripe, in rich crops; sweet potatoes and pumpkins, and potatoes in blossom ; and plains of high grass ready for the scythe. Thinking that some of the potatoes would make an agreeable addition to our dinner, we purchased a small plot ; one of the officers depriving himself of a coat for the purpose. We ourselves dug them out and despatched them to the boat to our cooks ; we also purchased some fowls, but they were so nimble we were unable to lay hands upon them. Our Tartar acquaintance growing rather tired of us, were anxious for our departure; they became uncivil 370 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARKACOUTA. and rude, threatening to remove us by force, and one fellow laid hold of me by the shoulders. I quietly removed his hand, and politely gave him to understand, by signs unmistakeable (I regretted I could not speak his language), that should he repeat the insult, I would knock him down with the butt of my rifle. Affairs were becoming warlike, when we descried two sails approaching ; these were the Admiral's barge, and Cap- tain Fortescue's galley : like ourselves they were on a voyage of discovery. The Tartars again assumed a civil tone, and we left them to deal with the new arrivals. The old man was superior to the others in dress and deportment ; his head was clean shaved on the crown and temples, and the back hair gathered into a tail, which was neatly platted with black silk ; there was a certain degree of respect paid to him by the rest. They Avere stout ugly fellows, of fair average height, with fat faces, high cheek bones, oblique eyes, scanty beards and moustaches, their heads unshorn, and the hair gathered behind into two short tails. Detecting the hand of one stranger in my pocket quietly witli- di'awing my knife, I thanked him for his delicate attention, and relieved him of his prize. By the aid of the canoes we embarked in our boat and floated down the stream, selecting a different branch of the river for our return. We met some canoes with entire families in them ; smaller canoes with goods and chattels being towed astern : they were evidently mi- grating from the coast to some inland place. The I "AL fresco" dinner IN TARTARY. 371 canoes were managed by ordinary rudders, and carried square sails of white cotton, with bamboo reefs, as in other parts of the Chinese empire. We landed on an island, and selecting a cool place shaded by the spreading branches of some trees, spread a boat's sail for table-cloth, arranged our viands, and with good appetites fared sumptuously ; regaling our- selves after dinner with hmes, olives, cigars, and coffee, part of oiu' crew meanwhile entertaining us with some cheerful glees. I think that man carries in himself the ingredients of his own happiness, and that it is as easy to be happy and enjoy life in the wilds of Tartary, as in the crowded cities of Paris or London : . at least we felt so, on this and many other occasions, in our frequent rambles in strange places. As we sailed slowly down the river, singing and making merry, the moon rose in pale splendour, and there was a pleasant still- ness, which gives to music an additional sweetness : "Soft stillness and the night become the touches of sweet harmony." We got safe on board our respec- tive ships before ten o'clock, much pleased Avith our excursion. In a small boat called a dingy I made the circuit of the port, to examine it more closely. Westward, and near the mouth of the river, are som_e small flat islands. On approaching them the water shoals rapidly, the bottom being sandy ; nearer, and between the islands, long water-grass fills up the spaces. The mainland on the west is very rocky, the rocks being composed of a B B 2 37a VOYAGE OP H.M.S. BAKRACOUTA. coarse-grained granite, with horizontal and vertical rifts ; large masses, being at various times separated from the parent rock, lie cumbering the shore, rendering a passage over them a difficult task. In a valley on this side there are some thick but stunted larch. It is the best place for procuring firewood; the oak, which grows elsewhere around the port, being very heavy and of slow combustion. The rocks on the opposite side assume a different character ; that of red porphyry of coarse crystalline structure, with fissures in all directions, large portions continually giving way. On the beach beneath these rocks I saw a very curious fish lying : it was upwards of two feet in length, head and back flat, from nose to tail ; nose vertical, with very small mouth ; eyes small, obliquely set, with yellow irides ; a very small gill on either side, with fin behind it ; an anal and caudal fin, without scales ; belly white, with yellow streaks separating it from black sides. The watering stream runs through a valley on the eastern side of the port, near the ordinary anchorage. A thick growth of oaks, hazel, and willows, completely hides it from view, and fine ferns, though limited in variety, grow on the banks and under every cliff. A few deserted huts were found on a rising bank near the mouth of the stream. We found blaeberries ripe and growing in abundance on the low islands in the vicinity of the port : they were made into refreshing and healthful tarts. On the 8th of August we sailed from Port Seymour V'V / VICTORIA BAY. 373 for Victoria Bay; the day bright, with a refreshing sea breeze. The coast Hne from this phice trends westward ; for some distance it is bold and rocky, the rocks in all sorts of strange disorder : upheavals, depressions, contortions and sHps, vertical chasms as if opened by earthquakes, rocks standing out from the shore, pinnacled, and at a distance resembling some fine old minster. Next day we had a fine breeze from the north-east ; we steered in a south-westerly direction, the land trending in that way. The country appeared hilly, but not mountainous ; the coast is rocky, abrupt, and in places precipitous : a granite range runs along the coast. Here there were thick forests of oak, Avith an occasional fir towering above its fellows. We were now advancing towards a more thickly peopled region, and in many creeks we could discern some Tartar houses, with a few boats or canoes drawn up on shore. As we approached Termination Island, at the entrance to Victoria Bay and Napoleon Gulf, we saw many canoes under sail ; the sails of some of the latter w^ere made of blue calico. Victoria Bay extends 130° 28' to 132° 3' east longi- tude, and from 42° 30' to 43° 26' north latitude. In it there are three gulfs. Napoleon, Gnerin, and D'Anville. The Eugenie Archipelago is named after the Empress of the Erench. The islands of the Archipelago are of various proportions and sizes, some dwindling into insignificant rocks, others large, hilly, covered with verdure, and 374 YOYAGE OP H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. thinly studded with oak and hazel : the pine is very scarce. Some of the islands afford capacious and well- sheltered anchorages, and are partly inhabited by Mantchu Tartars. A long peninsula projects from the mainland in a direction running north-east and south- west. The extremity is deeply indented by a port or bay ; between this and a large island to the south are the Hamelin Straits, and in the island are Ports May and Deans Dundas. We anchored at night in twenty fathoms of water, within a few miles of Hamelin Straits. In the morning we steamed through the Straits, and anchored off the entrance to Port Dundas. The tem- perature ranged between 70° and 76° Pahr., modified by a fresh northerly breeze ; the sky cloudy and over- cast. Here the islands are very pretty, rising gradually from the water to truncated cones, or table-land covered by rich pasture ; pleasing valleys add a charm to the scenery, their sides clothed with oak, hazel, walnut, wild vine, dog-rose, and currant now in fruit ; and near the houses are well tilled gardens, containing potatoes, onions, kidney beans, vegetable marrows, and cucumbers. During the nights heavy rain fell, giving a freshness to the verdm^e of this fertile land. We visited Port Dundas on the 11th. This very fine port is situated in a large island forming the southern side of Hamelin Straits ; the entrance opening to the south-west, looking towards Guerin Gulf. It affords a fine anchorage, stretching in a south-easterly direction for five miles, and terminating in a cul-de-sac. Is^ h N PORT DUNDAS — TARTAR HUT. 375 The land on either side of the entrance is high and rocky ; on the right masses of red conglomerate, and on the left loose boulders of granite, approach the water's margin. The boundary line of the port is much indented, with shingled beach ; large quantities of oyster shells, thrown up by the waves, lie in all directions, mingled with drift wood and fish bones. In the course of the bay there are steep hills, bluff rocks of porphyry, and small coves prettily situated, with strands of granitic sand. These are the terminations of wooded valleys, where grow the oak, walnut, ash, sycamore, birch, and elm ; also the vine, wild raspberry, currant, and hazel, pear and apple trees, and many others unknown to me. The hills are covered with rich long grass, peonies, orange lilies, convolvulus, vine, orchids, &c. The oak which grows on the open hill sides is of a superior quality, and of fair average diameter. In this neigh- bourhood the fir is scarce, but when met with it is found to be superior in thickness to any we have yet seen. Within the entrance, and on the left side, there was a Tartar house, and near it stood some canvas tents, temporary dwellings for fishermen. Some large canoes were drawn up in a row on the beach in front of the house; they were capable of carrying sails, and each was made from the stem of a large tree, rudely con- structed, and fitted with rudders. Some were laden with sea-weed closely packed, others with tobacco. Some Tartars came to meet myself and companions as we approached the house. The crews of tlie canoes 376 VOYAGE OP H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. were enjoying their supper in the open air ; it consisted of fish, soup, potatoes, and rice. Perfect adepts in the use of the chopsticks, they squatted around small fires, occasionally ceasing for a little to enjoy a pipe, and then attack the viands with renewed vigour. Fresh supplies were being cooked in shallow pans, suspended over fires from a tripod. They were most pressing in their invitations to us to partake of their meal ; but we de- clined with thanks. They were a gipsy -looking lot, their faces swarthy from smoke and exposure to all weathers ; some hardy fellows, strongly built, broad-shouldered, and muscular ; others thin and tall. Their heads were unshorn, with the exception of one man, who was well dressed, and had his head shaved, and wore a tail. He appeared to exercise some authority over the rest, and could read and write. I presented him with a Mantchu Testament ; he was greatly pleased with the gift, and expressed his satisfaction by patting me on the back. T remarked that the heads of these Tartars were much compressed above the cheek-bones in the region of the temples, and that the head receded from the brows and occipital protuberance to the vertex of the head, which was rather pointed. The interior of the house was divided into two apartments, one was fitted up as a place for distilling samshoo, and as a store house, the other as a dwelling room, containing beds, tables, and other fm^niture, very rude and very dirty. A few individuals were seated on low stools around a basket of rice, and half-starved cats TARTAR MARKSMEN. 377 wandered about the mud floor. Large packages of trepaug, or Beche de oner, dried and ready to be sent to the interior, were piled in the storehouse. This Holothuria, or Trepan^, is much smaller than that imported from the Indian Archipelago, being about three inches in length ; when dried and smoked, it is black and corrugated externally, with parallel rows of tubercles running the entire length ; internally it is white and pulverulent, with a saltish taste, and resem- bles the root of a plant. It is highly prized by the wealthy classes of Chinese, who beheve it to possess certain aphrodisiac properties. Rice, millet, and Indian corn were also stored up for the coming winter: the latter is used in the distillation of spirits resembling brandy. One of the Tartars was anxious to discharge one of our rifles ; he fired at a stone some fifty yards off, but the bullet went wide of the mark, and as he did not hold the weapon firmly, it kicked a little and disturbed his gravity. We smiled at his change of temper, so he withdrew to the house and soon returned fully accoutred, armed with matchlock and match, powder horn, ball pouch, priming wire, with a priming pouch containing some fine grained powder slung round his neck. This marksman was lame, and had but one eye, which was a piercer : he had evidently acquired a local reputation by his precision in firing. He loaded the matchlock with a charge of powder suffi- ciently large to throw a pound shot some fifty yards, instead of a smaU bullet ; then, without any wadding 378 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. between, dropped into the muzzle a crooked and ragged iron pellet ; lie then shouldered arms haughtily and disdainfully, looking around as much as to say, " Admire me, oh ye people ! " and taking deliberate aim, fired, and struck the water twenty yards short of the mark. One of my companions then took a rifle and showed his style of work by striking the stone ; the Tartars crying out Bangoiida ! Sangouda ! — very good ! very good ! Having made a few presents, we left them in good temper with themselves and us. Sir Michael Seymour came on board on the morning of the 12th for a cruise. We steamed to Port May, a wide harbour, well sheltered, and surrounded by wooded land, in the southern extremity of Albert Penin- sula. Hills gently sloping to the edge of the water, are partially covered by oak, elm and walnut ; some parts being without trees, and covered by rich grass and flowering plants : the vine grew in abundance. The soil is a rich dark loam ; and a large garden on one side of the harbour was well stocked with vegetables. Cereals, such as barley, buckwheat, and millet, grew in a field adjacent, and a few horses stood near the cultivated land. We experienced no difficulty in procuring potatoes, which were of a very good description, small, round, and dry ; also cucumbers, beans, onions, and vegetable marrow. A tiger skin was purchased here j the people say that this animal occasionally visits them, and they are obliged to surround their houses with stockades in order to ward off his attacks : the tiger PORT BRUCE. 379 cat visits the neighbourhood nightly. Tlie Admu'al landed for a short time and shot three brace of pheasants and a bittern. Here I met with another Mantchu Tartar who could read, and I presented him with a Testament. The rocks on the left of the entrance to this harbour have a very strange appearance : they are strata of clay slate, curved, contorted, and pushed upwards by rocks of red porphyry, and capped by rich dark turf. The entire line of coast exhibits marks of volcanic action. We sailed for Port Bruce on the 15th, and arrived on the same day. We found the Pique at anchor, having arrived from Castries Bay two days since. There is an island in the entrance to the port, which must be avoided on entering. The anchorage is safe, but occasionally exposed to swells when south-east winds prevail ; it is almost encircled by a range of high hills, which shelter it from north-east winds. The rocks in the neighbourhood are entirely granite ; there are no stratified rocks visible. Marshy valleys, through which trout streams run, lie between some of the hills ; and the ray is to be found in numbers in the shallow water at the mouth of these streams : the natives kill them by spearing. The country around is covered with long grass and sedge, which with the vine, vetch, and a species of " Robin run the hedge " intertwining, render pedestrianism a feat of some labour. Trees are but thinly scattered in this neighbourhood. There are several detached houses around the bay ; but the natives cultivate no more land than is sufficient to supply them 380 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. with vegetables. Tliey are more crafty and cunning than those farther north ; requiring for fish, or deer antlers, four times their value in calico, cloth, or some other wearable. Deer are plentiful in the vicinity of the port, and pheasants and quails are to be met with, especially if the sportsman is fortunate enough to possess a dog. The heron, cormorant, eagle, crow, and magpie, with many species of divers, are common : yet for small birds, remarkable for beauty of plumage or for vocal powers, I have never met with such a scarcity. Captain F was very fortunate in pursuit of game, and always managed to return with a full game-bag : he brought down a very fine deer (Cervus capreolus). Having taken the Winchester in tow, we steamed to Port Louis in Napoleon Roads, where we left her safe at anchor, and proceeded to Termination Island to survey a small portion of the coast unsurveyed. We reached Hornet Bay early on the morning of the 21st : it is too open and exposed to form a good anchorage. The rocks in the vicinity of the bay are of red and grey granite, rough and precipitous ; and in the sheltered coves of the harbour and along the coast here, there is a great depth of soil. Some Tartar houses and conical huts of straw, the interior smoky and dirty, were seen in sheltered parts of the bay. Having surveyed part of the coast, we returned towards Victoria Bay, and steamed into a fine anchorage which at the time we imagined to be a port or bay, but it proved to be a passage around a very fine island. TARTAR SETTLEMENT. 381 On this we landed in search of potatoes and fowls ; for in long cruises, each person assists in endeavouring to procure some of the good things which are in part necessary to the proper enjoyment of life. We were met by fifty Tartars, who gazed upon us with some curiosity, uttering their usual exclamation, " Sangouda" — very good. There were a few straw huts along the beach, with some canoes drawn up in front of them • some fishermen were packing up their travelling gear, such as beds, pans, spears, &c., evidently bent on a fishing expedition. The principal house of the settle- ment stood at some distance from the shore, in the centre of a well-stocked garden. We directed our steps to this establishment, and informed the owner that we came to purchase fowls and vegetables, and that we Avere inclined to give a good price for them. But we had caught a " Tartar ; " he received us very uncivilly, in fact rudely, frowned and looked daggers and matchlocks at us, and gave us to understand by unmistakeable gestures that our presence was unwel- come, and that our departure was looked for with impatience. He was a stout and sturdy fellow, rather under middle height, with small blear eyes, and his grey beard and moustache showed that he Avas descending into the vale of years ; he had such an angry expres- sion of countenance, that I doubt if he ever gratified himself or anyone else with a smile. To his great annoyance, some of his countrymen sold us a plot of potatoes and some fowls, and part of our party were 382 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. running after the fowls, whilst others dug out the potatoes; whereat he vociferated and chattered till he was hoarse, and withdrew to his house. There he found me calmly inspecting the interior of the dwelling. In vain I attempted to direct his attention to some deer skins which I wished to purchase ; it was no use : nothing would pacify the old man but our speedy departure. He thought that as I was not working I must be a superior officer, and expostulated with me by signs and in his mother tongue, as if I understood every word he uttered. Having paid very well for our purchases, we withdrew to the boat. I observed traces of small-pox on the faces of many of the people here ; one poor lad had lost his eye by that sad disease, some were afflicted by ophthalmia, and others with marks of scrofulous abscess. As we were leaving the shore the fishermen were launching the canoes; and soon they floated gaily along with neat little square sails set, some blue and some white. On the 22nd, I accompanied Mr. May, Master of the Winchester, to survey the port in which we were at anchor. The land on the right was remarkable for having two long and high hills, separated by a low tract of land of rich black loam : a Tartar settlement was on the border of this tract. On leaving the ship, we found the water gradually deepened from four to seventeen fathoms, and within forty yards we found the water twelve fathoms in depth. As we pulled in a northerly direction we found the course of the FORSYTH ISLAND. 383 water to incline towards the east, and bend round towards the sea ; proving that this anchorage, instead of being a bay, was but a broad passage around a very fine island, which is now named " Porsyth Island : " the anchorage was named after Mr. Freeman, Master of H.M.S. Barracoiita. The left side of the passage is very irregular, being much indented by creeks, and low reefs running from abrupt granite rocks. On this side also were some houses. All the Tartars here, from the child to the old man, were hunters. CHAPTER XXVII. French sailor of the Jason — Port Louis — Gold diggings — Sail for Chousan — The Corea — Natives — Costumes — Manners — A ramble on shore — Beauty of the country — My military escort — Description of Corea — Arrival at Nagasaki — Enforce the treaty. On rejoining the ship we found that a Frenchman had come on board for passage and protection. He had been living with the Tartars for nearly two years, adopting their dress and customs, and was very anxious to leave, as he was perfectly tired of his wild life. He had deserted from the French whaler Jason in 1854, with a comrade, to go in search of gold ; having heard that large quantities of that precious metal were to be found near this place. The Tartars consented to be friends with the two Frenchmen, on condition that they would acquire the Mantchu language and adopt their customs. One Frenchman soon grew tired and restless, and was despatched to Pekin; the other worked like a slave, hunting and procuring gold by washing quartz sand, all of which was taken from him for the benefit of his hosts ; otherwise he was well treated. But being watched, he had much difficulty in escaping the vigilance of the Tartars to reach the ship : he brought some venison with him. f' t PORT LOUIS. 885 He well knew, that once on board of a British ship of war, it would not be easy to remove him from the shelter of the Union Jack. In the afternoon we sailed for Port Louis, in Napoleon Roads, to join the Admiral. We arrived on the 23rd and anchored. The rain fell in torrents, with distant thunder and lightning, till about four o'clock in the after- noon, when the rain ceased, the dark clouds clearing away, and a bright sunshine and cloudless sky succeeded. This port was visited last autumn by some French and English ships of war ; when many of the officers procured small lumps of gold, which is found in considerable quan- tities within a few miles of this anchorage : it is found in the bed of rivers, by the natives washing the sand. A few officers landed on some barren rocks, connected to the mainland by a long neck of sand, in search of oysters : we found some Tartars spearing for mussels, which they drew up in large masses — they are very large and coarse. Here we found star-fish of most beautiful colours, purple, violet, orange, and blue ; and the rocks were covered with cormorants, rock pigeons, and seagulls. We reached the sand-spit which separates Port Louis from Napoleon Roads, and found some houses built under shelter of the rocks. The people at first were inclined to be uncivil ; but, our surgeon, seeing a man with an arm in a sling, approached and tenderly examined his hand, which was much swollen and about to suppurate. Dr. B at once relieved him, and thus estabhshed us in the good graces of all around, so that we now had no difficulty in 386 VOYAGE OP H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. purchasing whatever we wanted, eggs, fowls, and vege- tables. I procured two grey pearls ; they had no gold for sale, but told us that the gold country was but eight miles from Port Louis. Here, for the first time during our cruise, I saw a cart; though rudely constructed, yet it had two wheels with spokes, and a pair of shafts ; a primitive affair but useful, and much better than I expected to meet with in this region : but where the roads lay for it to travel upon I could not conjecture. Some of the Mantchus here appeared well skilled in the use of the pen, and could read and write with much ease to themselves. Supper Avas prepared for some new arrivals ; it consisted of boiled rice, and sliced cucumber and oil. After supper the pipe passed round in silence, and having satisfied their appetite for smoke, they withdrew to the open air to wash their mouth and teeth. On the 24th August, in company with the Pique and Winchester^ we sailed for Chousan in the Corea. The winds were light and variable from the south-west ; average of thermometer 76°, and of barometer 2970 inches. Our latitude at noon on the 28th was 37° 23' N., and longitude 133° 32' E. The winds being light and from the south-south-west, we were unable to steer for our destination, which was in the direction of the wind. Badly adapted for sailing, we made much lee-way, and were thus placed far in the rear of the sailing ships ; for having but few days' coal on board, it was necessary to reserve them for a more fitting occasion. The weather LOCUSTS. 887 was hot, close, and very damp, tlie temperature between decks being 82°. The south-west wind is loaded with moisture which, as it proceeds northward, will be con- densed into those thick and unpleasant fogs with which we have been so frequently troubled. The days were bright with a soft breeze, and the water of a deep blue. I expected to have met with the flying-fish in this latitude, but was disappointed. The whale is very common in these waters, the unwieldy monster goes sluggishly through the water, blows four times, and then sounds, or descends, coming to the surface again in less than ten minutes. Some locusts came on board ; and I managed to pro- cure one. My specimen measm'es two and a-half inches in length ; head and body of a pale drab-colour, back and sides of neck brown ; two narrow black streaks are placed vertically between the eyes. From the lower margin of each eye to the angle of the mouth the tissue or skin is thick, membranous and of a dark colour ; the external or outer wings are reticular with black spots ; inner wings more delicate, having a pale yellowish tinge. We were at least one hundred miles from land when the locusts flew on board, and they still retained their remarkable strength. The Empire of China is infested with these insects ; they spread over fields in clouds, destroying fine crops of rice or wheat, or whatever vegetable lies in their destructive path ; they are taken in large quantities, and fried and eaten by the Chinese. Mr. Williams, in his " Middle Kingdom," gives a translation of an edict c c 2 388 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. issued by the Chinese Government for the purpose of exterminating locusts, in the 13th year of Tao Kwang, 1 833. It is a curious document, and well worth a perusal. We arrived in Chousan harbour on the 30 th : the day commenced with frequent showers ; and a stiff breeze, favourable however, pressed us through the water at a rapid rate. At 9 a.m. land was reported from the mast- head, and soon afterwards it was visible from the deck. As we neared and sailed along the shore, we were forcibly reminded of the Chinese coast, by the high and irregular barren mountains ; the summits of many being conical. As we approached the harbour of Chousan, remarkable from having a row of prominent and isolated rocks near the entrance, the sides of the hills appeared planted with small trees in rows, the valleys and lower parts of the hills being cultivated in terraces, the bright green crops and pasture land, with cattle feeding, contrasting with the red earth. We anchored before noon. The harbour of Chousan is open to the south-east, and capacious, but does not afford a safe anchorage for ships of large tonnage, save under shelter of some hills on the north. In a cove in the southern extremity of the harbour, there is a prettily retired spot, well wooded ; a few white cottages peep through the trees, and junks are at anchor before them. Crowds of people were collected on the tops of the hills and before the village of Chousan, watching our approach. They were clad in white, the men wearing broad black hats with high conical crowns, -and the effect was rather strange. CHOUSAN — COREA. 389 Shortly after we anchored, some boats similar in structure to the Japanese, though coarser, came along- side filled with Coreans, who could not repress their curiosity, and were anxious to be admitted on board. The Pique arrived at four p.m., and being the larger ship, was immediately visited by some Corean officials. I went on board and found them sitting at their ease in the ward-room. The youngest, I think, was about forty years old ; they were fine stout fellows, evidently in the higher walks of Corean society, being well nourished and large-faced, and not at all accustomed to manual labour, judging from their delicate hands. The upper lip and chin were disfigured by a few straggling hairs ; they have the oblique eyes of the Chinese, and the small thin nose of the Japanese ; high cheek-bones, with flattening of the supra-orbital arch ; thin lips ; teeth regular, clean and white ; hands and feet small. Their hair is black and coarse, and brushed upwards towards the crown, where it is formed into an upright twist to be received into their peculiar head-dress ; this consists of a band of black bamboo, shredded and plaited, sur- rounding the temples and supporting a broad-brimmed hat of the same material, with a crown rising to a trun- cated cone, which fits over the twisted hair. They wore robes of coarse white material, made from the fibres of hemp or nettle, open at the sides, and reaching below the knees ; the sleeves, wide and loose, formed a pocket in each depending part, by being stitched for a few inches from the bottom ; a broad white belt encircling 390 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. the waist maintained tlie robe in its position ; a pair of "wide-legged trousers, with white stockings drawn over them, were fastened above the ancles. They deposited their sandals at the side of the gangway when coming on board. They were polite and civil, but as the Chinese interpreter did not thoroughly understand their written characters, little information could be gained from them. They soon retired after inspecting the ship, saluting the officers by raising both hands over the eyes and joining the extremities of the fingers. From early dawn on the morning of the 31st, crowds of Coreans came on board, being admitted through the kindness of the captain ; they were well treated by the officers, and allowed to ramble over the ship. They evinced much curiosity in examining the various parts and articles of the ship ; the heavy guns surprised them, as did also the rifles and revolvers. The authorities sent on board presents of melons and capsicums, but did not promise to supply us with any necessaries. I showed some of our visitors specimens of Mantchu writing ; these they did not understand ; I then tried them with Japanese Testaments which they read fluently, and appeared eager to get copies. I thought I should not have a better opportunity of furthering the wishes of the good Bishop of Victoria than by distributing some Prayer-books and Testaments amongst the Coreans ; therefore I did so, the people expressing themselves very grateful. We obtained permission to land, and took advantage THE COREANS. 891 of a fine evening to see something of the country and of the strange people. Some hundreds of men, women, and children, were gathered together on the beach before the village, narrowly inspecting our dresses. Three open tents, in shape resembhng sedan-chairs, were erected for our reception ; but we did not enter them, much pre- ferring a walk into the country. They would not permit us to enter their houses, but otherwise were very civil. We allowed them to take as much liberty as they pleased in the examination of our uniform. A spy-glass which I had with me excited their curiosity so much, that I was compelled to stop every five minutes to allow some of them a peep through it, and in order to put a stop to the annoyance, which became a "decided bore," I despatched it to the ship. The women and girls kept aloof from us ; the former were old and ugly, some of the latter decidedly pretty, with good teeth. They wore a loose white jacket over a white petticoat ; and loose trousers and stockings of a fine white material : the very poorest, though in rags, had the honour of being in white rags. We took a circuitous ramble, through rice and tobacco fields, the latter plant being in flower ; over streams, and up the sides of hills which were cultivated in terraces ; small firs growing in patches here and there. The red soil, which we observed from the ship covering the tops of the hills, is formed of disintegrated granite, sterile of course ; the sides of the valleys were formed into terraces, one above the other, for the growth of rice> 392 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. which was now in the ear. Through bridle paths, and over rugged hills we went, till we came in sight of a small village embosomed in trees. Some Corean soldiers prevented our proceeding further ; and we contented our- selves with a superficial view of the village. The houses were small, built of mud, and thatched, with palings before them, and small gardens attached to them : a temple and Mandarin's residence were distinguished by their larger size and neatness, being whitewashed, and surrounded by trees and shrubs. One of our officers managed to borrow a horse and came trotting along ; but the rider was long and strong enough to carry the steed, a shaggy little brute. The saddle closely resembled a flocl\-bed, fastened on the horse's back by a strap ; and, to use the words of the rider " the saddle was anything but seaworthy." On our return we met with some pic-7iic parties from distant towns on an excursion to see the ships. Unlike the Japanese, they did not invite us to sit down and join them ; being jealous, I suppose, lest we might supplant them in the affections of the fair maidens. On reaching the village of Chousan, we found the crowd nothing diminished ; and when we sat down to rest, the people were kept at a certain distance by policemen, who, with long bamboos and spears " formed a ring." Next day I landed early in the forenoon, to avail myself of the last opportunity of seeing the Corea, and of pene- trating the interior. The day was bright and hot ; and a long walk would have been out of the question, but for A STOLEN MARCH. 893 the "strong incentive to ramble over strange lands, and amongst stranger people. On landing we found a posse of policemen drawn up in line on the beach to prevent our wandering; they beckoned to us to keep on the shore, a sort of silent command which we did not feel inclined to obey. But it was impossible to pass them, unless by stratagem ; so two of us separated from our comrades, and wandered along the beach, pretending to gather pebbles and shells ; and, after a few feints we succeeded in placing a rocky range of hills between us and the gallant band of soldiers. We progressed rapidly up the side of the hills, taking an occasional glance from the top of a rock towards the beach, and were glad to find that we had escaped unnoticed ; a fresh arrival from the Winchester, which had anchored a short time before, having demanded all their attention. We then doubled our speed, and soon reached the margin of an enticing valley. We met with many peasants, who were very civil and friendly, and we made some small presents to each of them ; they wishing to return the compliment by presenting a comb, tooth-brush, or small looking-glass and razor, which each of them carries on his person : but we dechned the proffered gifts. On our right, the hill stretched away towards a sharp ridge, the side clothed with stunted Scotch firs ; and below us lay a wide valley, with cultivated rice-grounds, and small hamlets and villages scattered around, their thatched roofs peeping through the trees. We descended the valley ; some very pretty blue lilies, orchids, and other 394. VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. flowers, were in bloom, and plats of tlie capsicum plant laden with red drooping fruit, with the pale yellow rice- fields, adorned the hill-side. Here we started pheasants from their mid-day rest, frogs croaked and jumped before us, and small lizards lay on stones basking in the sun. Snakes are very common in this country : I procured one about three inches in length, circumference of thickest part of body an inch ; it was of a dusky black hue on the back ; belly chequered with alternate squares of red, black, and white ; the tongue was black. I put it in a bottle of spirits, but after a little time the colours lost their distinctness. We met with an old gentleman and two ladies, who were very polite, and remained with us for some time. I presented the old man with a Testament. We endeavoured to gain the main road leading to the villages, but ere we had advanced many steps our progress was abruptly cut short by a body of soldiers, some on horses, others on foot. They approached us, making all sorts of angry grimaces ; which we treated cavalierly : they were in a great rage at our having outwitted them and eluded their vigilance. Shortly before their arrival we had smoked a cigar, surrounded by some well-dressed people, who read and chaunted aloud portions of the Testament. They possess soft musical voices, and their pronunciation sounded far more agreeable than the harsh and false tone of the Chinese reader. The soldiers wished us to take a short cut through some rice-fields, but we objected, preferring COREAN SOLDIERS — THE COREAN PENINSULA. 395 the smooth broad road ; and we were determined to have our own way on this occasion. A soldier caught me by the wrist and gave me a sharp twist; but I showed him a mild persuader in the shape of a young sapling, which I would have apphed across his shoulders had he repeated the offence. The soldiers are somewhat differently dressed from the rest of the people ; they wear broad- brimmed hats with round crowns, having a brass mark on the side, the brim edged with brass, and a plume of horse-hair, coloured red, depending from the back of the hat ; a long blue under jacket, partly covered by a loose red vest ; loose trousers and white shoes completing the attire. Their arms were matchlocks, spears, and swords. On our way to the village we met with a pretty maiden tripping along as gracefully as a fawn. I admired her simple attire ; a white coarse gauze jacket fell loosely over a stiff petticoat, also white, and her jet black hair was dressed after the fashion of Japanese women. On approaching us she ran as if a wolf was at her heels. When we arrived on the beach we were kept in " durance vile " till a boat came to take us on board the ship ; the police kept a ring by beating the people back with a long bamboo. The people presented us with melons, pears, and medlars, and but for the officials we should have been well received by the Coreans, who were hospitably inclined. The peninsula of the Corea is tributary to China, though it is ruled by a Corean king, who, when dying, selects one of his sons to reign; the new monarch is 396 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. confirmed on the throne by the Emperor of China, on paying a heavy tribute in silver. The Corea is bounded on the north by Mantchuria, north-west by the province of Lyantong, Straits of Corea on the south, Sea of Japan on the east, and the Yellow Sea on the west. The extreme length from north to south is C20 miles, and greatest breadth 300 miles. The country is moun- tainous, and very cold in winter : the land is carefully cultivated, and produces large crops of dry rice, wheat, and esculent roots. Large quantities of cotton are grown in the southern parts or provinces ; flax is also cultivated, and small supplies of silk are produced, which are exported to China. The revenues for the crown are very great : the tenth part of agricultural produce is given up for the support of government, and duties are levied on imports and exports. The animals found throughout the peninsula are bears, sables, martens, deer, and squirrels ; pheasants, partridge, and grouse, are also found. The Coreans are quarrelsome, and are seldom on good terms with the Chinese. At one time a wall separated the Corea from the Chinese Empire ; but it is now almost obliterated. Still the frontier line is strictly maintained, and no Chinese are permitted to pass, except once a year, when a fair is held, during part of a day, in a town withhi a few miles of the frontier, the Chinese being compelled to return to their own country before sunset. The market-town is named " Kiuiwan." The Chinese supply the Coreans " with dogs, cats, pipes, THE COREANS — BAY OF NAGASAKI. 397 leather, stag's horns, copper, horses, mules, and asses ; and receive in exchange, baskets, kitchen utensils, rice, corn, swine, paper, mats, oxen, fm's, and small horses."* In manners, partly in dress, in salutations, in the cast of features, and in the thin and sharp nose, the Coreans resemble the Japanese more than the Chinese. The colour of the skin is darker than that of the Japanese ; this cannot depend altogether on exposure to air and sun, as I have seen a child seven years old perfectly copper-colom-ed. We sailed for Nagasaki on the afternoon of the 1st of September, and on the 2nd passed the Gotto Islands, which appeared partitioned into farms, well cropped, and now ready for the sickle. On the evening of the 3rd we entered the Bay of Nagasaki, with H.M.S. JFinchester in tow. We found the objectionable line of junks still obstructing the passage from the middle to the inner harbour ; so leaving the Winchester as close as possible to the junks, we returned to take H.M.S. Pique in tow. During our absence His Excel- lency Sir Michael Seymour despatched a messenger to the Governor of Nagasaki, requesting that the obstruc- tion should be at once removed, in order that Her Majesty's ships might anchor in the inner harbour, according to the treaty : he also intimated that if his request was not granted within one hour, he Avould be compelled to force an entrance. The Governor and all the officials treated the Admiral's demand in their usual *" Middle Kingdom," vol. i. p. 158. 398 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. style of equivocation, making many excuses, and saying that Sir James Stirling never made so unreasonable a demand ; little dreaming that the Admiral would surely lieep his word with them. On our return with the Fique, the Admii'al signalled to proceed to the inner harboiu*, leave the Pique at anchor, and return for the JFinchester. We were anxious to see if those frowning batteries, which towered one above the other on each side of us, would pour forth a mm'derous salute. Spy-glasses were pointed in all directions, but we could not see the slightest move on the part of the Japanese towards the guns. Steaming at a fair rate, onward we went : the connecting chain between two of the junks snapped asunder as we touched it ; then the lower yard caught the masts of the junks on each side. The junk on the port side tottered, struggled, heeled over, and went down, soldiers, armament, and all. We dragged the other, attached by its mast, to the yard abreast of the Dutch Factory, then cast off the Pique, and returned for the flag- ship. Meanwhile the Japanese in the immersed junk gathered themselves up from their watery resting-place, and reached the shore, nothing the worse for a shght wetting. The Winchester anchored near a Dutch frigate, which was placed before the islet of Dezima ; and officials in numbers visited the ships, but did not allude to our forcible entrance. The Governor intimated to the Admiral his deep regret that we found it necessary to remove the junks, and promised that in future a passage SIR M. SEYMOUR VISITS THE GOVERNOR OF NAGASAKI. 399 would be opened on the approach of any of Her Majesty's ships of war. The Admiral was perfectly satisfied with the statement, and would do himself the pleasure of calling on the Governor at 10 a.m. of the following day. The officials regretted that the Governor was indisposed, and could not receive His Excellency. The usual style of procrastinating, so successfully practised for the last two years, was about to be tried once more ; but it was at once stopped by the Admiral, who announced his intention of landing in the morning, with some of his officers ; accordingly, on the morning of the 4th September, His Excellency and suite landed, and at once proceeded to the Government House, where the Governor waited to receive him. A small spot of ground, open towards the harbour, but otherwise sur- rounded by a high spiked paling, w^as set apart as a bazaar, for the sale of goods to foreigners. It contained within its area two long sheds and two houses ; the former to contain the goods for sale, and the latter adapted as guard-houses and offices for the official spies, clerks, and soldiers. The place was neatly kept, and an elevated shrubbery, with winding paths, overlooked the harbour. CHAPTER XXVIII. Sir Michael Seymour and Japanese Governor — Bazaar — The cifcy — Temples — Brazen arch — Gods — Gardens — Deziraa — Our guards — Occupations — ■ The Dairi^Morality — Temple and miniature gardens— Ziogoon — The laws — Fatzsisio — Printing — Imports andExports — Departure, and arrival at Hong Kong, The Governor in his conversation with the Admiral alluded to the great boon, and hoped it would content us. The Admiral, thanked him for the bazaar, but could not understand why a paling, so offensive to Englishmen, was placed around it, as if we were a flock of sheep. The Governor said it was so placed to protect us from the people. The Admiral remarked, that we sought not protection from others, being always able to protect ourselves. The Governor meant it was to keep the people from incommoding us by their tiumhers. Sir Michael informed the Governor, that the object of his present visit was to demand permission for himself and officers to land, without restrictions, in the town, or wherever else he pleased. Such a request was unheard- of ; the Governor was not prepared for it : he might grant permission for one day, but not more. The Admiral must wait whilst he sent to Jeddo for instruc- THE BAZAAR OF NAGASAKI. 401 tion ; the delay would be but six iveels or thereabouts. But Admirals don't wait. Sir Michael wanted permis- sion not only for this time, but any other, when a man- of-war visited the port. If the Governor did not freely and at once accede to his request, he would withdraw his ships and report the affair to Her Majesty's Government as a breach of good faith on the part of the Japanese, After a little delay the Governor granted all the Admii'al asked ; requesting, as a favour, that the officers would not land till after the 7th, that day being the feast of the 7th day of the seventh moon. The Admu'al, with true courtesy, paid proper deference to the request. In the evening the Governor sent notes of icelcome to the Captains of the ships, accompanied by presents of fruit and vegetables. We landed daily to visit the bazaar and make pur- chases ; many of the vendors could speak English pretty well, but, as in Hakodadi, they dare not receive payment for their 2:oods : this was handed over to some two- sworded individuals. A great variety of bronzes, some very old, were exposed to view ; soldiers, horsemen, and storks ; gods and candlesticks ; junks and houses. They were expensive, and purchasers few. In another place handsome plants and dwarf trees were arranged ; camellias, cypresses, cedars, roses, and azaleas ; dwarf pines, and dwarf oranges. There was an abundance of lacquered ware, unlike that of the north, inlaid with mother of pearl : cabinets ; work-boxes ; glove-boxes ; cigar-cases, and work-tables; cups and bowls; the 402 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. workmanship exquisite, and the varnish so hard and perfect, that it can resist the action of boihng water : the juice of which the varnish is composed, as it comes from the tree is at first colourless, and gradually acquu-es a dark colour. Some of the porcelain ware is very delicate : it is known as egg-shell china, being as thin as egg-shells, and semi-transparent. There were also silks and crapes ; umbrellas and slippers ; straw pictures and straw picture-frames ; fruits and vegetables ; peas, and beans ; tobacco, and tobacco pouches ; saki and soy in jars. Soy is produced from a species of bean w^hich grows wild in the neighbom-hood : the beans are par- tially boiled, then bruised, and mixed with an equal quantity of ground wheat ; a little water is added, and the mixture placed in a warm temperature till fermenta- tion is excited, when some salt and water are added ; it is then put in earthenware jars, and being well covered, is placed aside for some months ; at the expira- tion of that time it is subjected to pressure, and the expressed juice is then ready for use. It is stored in small casks, shaped like buckets, and bound round with wooden hoops. There was a brisk demand at the bazaar for various articles, though the prices were exorbitant. Each day brought an improved change in the quality of the sup- plies : such as handsome tables of lacquered ware, beau- tifully inlaid in pearl, and shaped after European models. Then, again, there were small models of Japanese houses, with the inmates dressed after the latest Japanese JAPANESE GUIDES AND TEMPLES. 403 fashion. The interpreters were very civil, and when disengaged from their occupations, amused themselves by translating Dutch into English, and English into Dutch. They frequently applied to me to correct their pronun- ciation, a request I always gladly complied with. On landing to visit the city on the 8th, we were met by an interpreter and a body of policemen as escorts. One would have been sufficient as a guide, and it was very unpleasant to be followed by a number of people in arms, watching our steps as if we were a pack of thieves. Ascending some broad flights of stone steps, we followed our guides through narrow streets, over bridges, up more steps, and through more streets, narrow, but clean, till we arrived at the entrance to a large temple. Here we stopped to admire an immense arch, whose pillars were incased in copper, with raised characters on either side telling of the emperor in whose reign it was erected, and of the temple before which it was placed. Passing through the arch, we came to the foot of three flights of steps, very broad, and so steep that we paused to gain breath ere we attempted the ascent. On either side were rows of fine old trees ; and the temple in the distance stood out in relief from a dark wood or grove. On our ascent we met with devotees on then* return from prayers ; coolies carrying heavy burdens -, and horses, descending the steps with as much ease and gravity as the old owners who followed them. A pleasant shrubbery stood in the shade of . the temple ; the camphor tree, cedar, cypress, yew, and camellia, and orange, growing in perfection. I D d2 404 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BAREACOUTA. measured one of the fine old trees, wliicli was 25 feet in girth, and covered with rich foliage. The appearance of the temple much disappointed us ; it was very old and suffered to remain in a dilapidated state. The residences of the priests and officials were superior in every respect to the habitation of the god. In front was a small courtyard clean and Avell fiao;2;ed ; and a small house stood on the left, elevated about twelve feet from the surface : probably the library of the establishment, containing historic records. Beneath its eaves an old model of an European ship vvas suspended ; either for inspection, or as a mark of triumph in connection with the murderous proceedings instituted against the Portuguese by the Japanese Government. The temple is a plain wooden structure open on three sides, and a wooden paling surrounds it to keep the too curious visitors at a respectful distance from the divinities. Their godships exhibited to the world merely their faces and heads ; the former perfectly hideous, with a large development of the nasal organ, and spotted over with pellets of paper : from time to time the humble devotee chews paper and throws a pellet, aiming at the nose ; should he or she be fortunate enough to strike that prominent organ, the request is granted, but should the unfortunate suppliant fire wide of the mark, nothing is to be expected from the irate god. Some pictures of floods and earthquakes suspended around the interior bore traces of the errant pellets. Stags' heads, spears, and swords, were hung up around the building. VIEW OF THE CITY OF DEZIMA. 105 We were regaled by some of the bonzes with tea and fruit, and then retired to an elevation from which we had a fine view of the town. Before us, at some distance, a range of hills stretched seaward, and gently sloped to the town ; which lies partly in a valley, and on the sides of the hills, enclosed landward by a crescent of hills and mountains. The side overlooking the town was clothed in verdure of the richest green, varied with groves of trees, sheltered hamlets, and quiet residences of the gentry; temples raised their quaint roofs above sacred groves, and near them cemeteries, with the appropriate yew, and cypress, and weeping ash : the upright tombstone and humble tablet, evinced a regard for the homes of the dead as generous and warm as is shown by the most civilised nation of the West. A wide mountain stream flows down the valley, sweeping in its course to the ^ea all the filth of the town ; and sundry small bridges cross it at various places from street to street. The fan-shaped Island of Dezima, appeared diminutive enougli : it is con- nected with the mainland by a narrow neck of land, and made one sigh for the Dutch, who are compelled to reside in this cramped prison. The town, or imperial city, of Nagasaki has been gradually increasing in size and im- portance since the first visit of the Portuguese ; and it now ranks as one of the five Imperial towns of the empire. The streets are rather crooked ; some are parallel with the stream, and cross streets run up the hill-sides, till they reach the country with its pleasant tea-gardens and retired hamlets. Most of the streets are fitted with 406 YOYAGE OF H.M.S. BAREACOUTA. gates at botli ends, which are closed every night. We wandered at our ease through many streets, still followed by our troublesome guides or guards ; whose faces were red as scarlet from continued exertions to keep up with us : puffing and blowing like grampuses, they tottered along ; no doubt offering up prayers silent and deep for our speedy departure from tlieii" hospitable shores : and we determined upon giving them sufficient cause to hold us in their memory for years to come. We passed a school-house, one of the few houses of two stories encircled by a wall ; but were prevented from entering. I was most anxious to see the young m'chins, who were roaring out their lessons most lustily. An an- of business pervaded all the streets : here were shops for the sale of the necessaries of life, and luxuries, such as sweet- meats and fruits, wines and tobacco ; silk shops and old curiosity stores, with bronzes, porcelain, and lacquered ware. We were permitted to enter the shops and select anything we wished to purchase, which Avas sent to the bazaar. We entered one manufactory where men were engaged making joss-sticks ; in another, men and boys were engaged in grinding and polishing shagreen with sand and water : it is made from the skin of the ray and shark -, the latter being imported in large quantities from the Dutch Indian settlements : these skins are used in the manufacture of scabbards and sword-hilts. We saw others weaving and embroidering silks, cutting tobacco, plaiting sandals, making house furniture, and casting small pots. We found the people extremely civil, though JAPANESE WOMEN — MORALITY. 407 curious. The women appeared to have some Hberty of action, and came about us wuth as much curiosity as the men; they brought us tea, water, or lights as we required. Owing to the usual custom of blackening the teeth, the married women are much changed as to their personal appearance; but most of the young girls we met with were pretty and gracefid, curtseying slightly as they passed their friends in the street. With the exception of the Dairi or Spiritual Emperor, the Japanese are restricted from forming more than one matrimonial alliance at a time, but his Sacred Majesty is permitted to have twelve wives, all of whom reside within the precincts of his court at Miaco : I am not sure if the Secular Emperor is allowed a like privilege. Another custom peculiar to married women is that of plucking the hair from the eyebrows, an additional cause of facial disfigurement. Cases of breach of marriage contract on the part of the women are very rare, as they are usually extremely virtuous : instances have been recorded where married women, having been rudely violated, rather than the shame should be published to the world, have with the heroism of Lucretia committed suicide by ripping themselves open. Morality, however, is at a low ebb amongst the lower classes in Nagasaki ; there being no less than seven thousand prostitutes within the city. Most of them reside in one neighbourhood; they are carefully educated, and taught music and singing, and perhaps one may be selected as a wife by some wealthy merchant or official. 408 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. We visited the district where these syrens reside, but were not permitted to enter any of the houses, and cross- barred gratings placed against the Avindows prevented our seeing more than a passing gUmpse of a pale face. All the doors were kept shut, at least during our visit ; and as we advanced, our watchful police beckoned the fair ladies who approached the windows to withdraw. We visited another temple, in better order and more gorgeous than the last ; and it was remarkable from the extreme care bestowed on its interior and the adjacent grounds. A very obliging priest led us through the garden, the walks of which were covered with a layer of very small pebbles brought from the sea-shore. Grotto work filled various secluded corners ; some of the stones being hollowed out into vases containing water cool and sweet. The cypress and camellia had been carefully tended ; and the graceful bamboo bent over rustic seats, its long stems being encircled by a species of convolvulus, while the Smilaco crept along the earth, covering many a delicate fern. Here also the rose bloomed in profusion, and the branches of the orange- tree drooped, heavily laden with fruit. A miniature pagoda stood on a rocky islet, in an artificial sheet of water. Every part of this little paradise was watered once daily, to keep it cool, and maintain the freshness of plants and flowers. We accepted a cup of tea from the good old priest, and wished him to accept from us some little present as a token of our gratitude for his kindness ; but he smiled, shook his head, and THE EMPERORS — SPIRITUAL AND TEMPORAL. 409 pointed to the sworded gentry in our rear : wc under- stood his silent but forcible language. I was unable to learn much about the government of the country, beyond what is already known : namely, that there are two rulers of the empire. One, the Spiritual chief, leads a life of seclusion in his palace at Miaco, taking no part in state affairs, unless as far as relates to ecclesi- astical matters, or in the selection of a new temporal ruler. He never leaves the precincts of the palace, and when breathing the pure air in his gardens, no vulgar eye can look upon him. The clothes which he wears are daily renewed, the cup from which he drinks, the bowl con- taining his meals, or the porcelain plates bearing fruit and sweetmeats on his table, are never used again : every- thing must be new ; the old, or rather the once used, articles are smashed in pieces, lest common mortals should use them. The other, or more important personage, the secular Emperor, or principal General of the realm, resides at Jeddo, the true seat of government, whence all laws are promulgated, and proclamations issued to every part of Japan. He rejoices in many titles, the principal ones being Kuho and Ziogoon. He leads a most active life, and is assisted in the government by the rulers of pro- vinces, who are princes, paying heavy tributes and fre- quent visits to Jeddo ; some members of the princes' families remaining in the city as hostages for the faithful conduct of the provincial governors. Under these there are deputy governors, officers of many grades, and official spies sent from Jeddo. The Ziogoon receives in person 410 VOYAGE OP H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. ambassadors from foreign powers, and makes himself conversant with the most minute circumstances affecting the welfare of the empire. I believe that the laws are equitably administered, that severe punishments are rare, and seldom inflicted upon undeserving objects. The punishments vary from ordinary confinement in gaols to that by death. Grandees, when guilty of any great crime, are banished to the island of Fatsizio. The oft-talked-of " death by self-infliction " is very rare ; and from one of the Japanese interpreters I learned that the statement, so often published, concerning the suicide of the Governor of Nagasaki after the visit of the Fliceton frigate in 1808, was without foundation. The Governor was removed to Jeddo, but his term of residence had almost expired ere he left. All officers in the army, and persons officially employed in civil service, bear their family arms stamped or worked on the back of their loose jacket ; they also wear two swords, one three feet in length, slightly curved, the other shorter, a little more than two feet long. The former, the official sword, is returned to government on the death of the wearer, or when deprived of his office from misconduct ; the latter is private property, handed down from father to son, or purchased by whoever is entitled to wear one. Merchants are not allowed the privilege of wearing swords ; they are looked upon with contempt by nobles and officials, and they never can aspire to the rank of ffentleman, were they rich as Rothschilds. But, as in JAPANESE FEINTING AND ENGRAVING. 411 many other lands, they form the wealthiest class, and live in luxurious style, so in Japan their wealth gives them the means of purchasing lands, building com- modious houses surrounded by gardens most tastefully laid out, and of enjoying life in a style unknown to mere officials. In Nagasaki there is a fair number of bath-houses, where the good people perform their daily ablutions in the same manner as at Hakodadi, perfectly regardless of the presence of any one, friend or stranger. For the sum of five cash, I think, even an Englishman might mix in the festive and nude throng, Avithout any remark from the Japanese as to impropriety. Most Japanese publications are printed with engravings on wood or copper ; the Avood used appeared to me to be baked birch : I did not see any of the engraved copper plates. Many government books, proclamations and despatches are written with a hair pencil and ink, as in China ; commencing on the right of the sheet of paper, and writing in single column to the bottom, proceeding again from top to bottom and from right to left : the characters are very distinct. The residences of the magistrates are neatly built of wood, straw and mud, whitewashed externally; they are seldom higher than one storey, with upper store- room or attic; but they are neatly furnished, and have ornamental grounds tastefully laid out around them. A taste for flower-gardens prevails with the lower as with the higher classes, and in the rear of 412 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARKACOUTA. every shop a small spot of ground is laid out in miniature shrubberies, with dwarf pine, cedar and orange, small piles of rock-work, a miniature lake, and winding paths adapted for Liliputians. Notwithstanding the treaties lately ratified, I am satis- fied that for years to come, little profit would be gained in exporting articles to Japan : wants nuist be first created. The Japanese object to the exportation of gold and silver, and for goods received into the country, payment would be made in copper and camphor. The empire appears to produce almost everything they yet require, and China supplies them with extra teas, silks, and medicinal sub- stances. In wandering about the town and country, viewing the unglazed windows, the scarcity of woollen clothing, and the rude implements of husbandry, I thought how easily these deficiencies could be supplied by England. Then again, hardware is very expensive, and cottons also are dear; Sheffield and Manchester could supply these commodities. Tlie soil is rich, and would produce good crops of potatoes, oats, barley, wheat and the ordinary garden vegetables ; but the spongy masses called radishes and turnips with which we were supplied by the Japanese, were tasteless, and unfit for human food : the fruits, especially pears, were equally tasteless. But the Japanese, in a dietetic point of view, care for nothing but rice, tea and fish, with sweetmeats. The present popidation of Nagasaki is estimated at 120,000. During om* stay we saw very little of the Dutch, who lead a most secluded life. The Dutch trade has DriCH COMMERCE — TRA^rrLTXC, ON THE CROSS. AV\ of late years dwiiuiled to mere insigniticance. The imports from Batavia are spices, sugar, tin. leail. cottons, aiid woollen goods, with Indian avooiIs ; these are exchanged for copper, camphor, lacquer ware, porcelain, soy and silks. It has been frequently stated that the Dutch at Dezima take part in the diabolical farce which is yearly acted at Nagasaki, that of trampling on the cross and picture of the Yirghi ; but such is not the case ; it is a gross libel on those worthy merchants. This ceremony takes place on the commencement of each new year, and lasts four days, mIicu every one in the city is supposed to have passed over and trampled upon the cross and picture, that the growing youth of Japan may ever abhor the Christian religion. On the 17th of September we bade adieu to Nagasaki, its tine harbonrs and pleasant scenery, and soon reached the open sea. blue, fresh and curling : the wind north- westerly, and the temperature S.^^ Pahr., the barometer standing at oO"4.jO inches. The outlines of the hills, momitains and islands gradually faded from our view, but the white-sailed junks still studded the water ; some i-eturnins: from the neio-hbourino: islands, others from Seghalien and the northern ports. The weather grew wet and sultry as we approached Hong Kong, the bleak and barren coast appearing doubly tame and uninter- esting after the bright green hills of Japan, and the splendid forests of Tartary. We involuntarily sighed, as we entered the Lymoon Channel and ncarcd our anchoracre before Victoria, for our fishing excursions 414 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOUTA. and our wild rambles through the woods. Active work of which we had no idea was in store for us. The speed is slackened ; the ship moves slowly through the water; still slower — "Stop her!" "Hands bring ship to anchor," " Stand by the port anchor," " One, two, three, let go ! " Quickly the anchor drops, dragging with it the heavy cable. The ship swings round to the tide, and we are at rest. We look with wistful glances towards the heavy letter-bag, and have no time to reply to many questions as to what we have seen and what we have done. The signalman is amusing himself by making a homeward bound pendant, which he says he intends " bending " in the morning, as he hears — shortsighted mortal — that the good ship Barracouta is Homeward Bound. THE END. liRADBURY AXD EVANS, rRINTERS, WillTEFRIARS. « UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY Los Angeles This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. AU69-196l mpaio-im 1 OCT i 7 t97S 1 i\'uv o^iyo* \ 1 iWAY?--^^989 FEB 2 1989 1 Form L9-50m-7, '54(5990)444 ^.r ^-^ .^ ^. ^^mimm'^' \WEUKIVERVa WSOl^ %33AIN r-'^ AA 001 136 087 2 3 1158 01184 9824 ■ wmm iiiiiii