IRLF 
 
 SB 
 
LIBRARY 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 Class 
 
 GIFT OF 
 
 X s 
 
ADD1SON W. NAYLOR, REBECCA S. NAYLOR 
 
 AND THEIR DAUGHTER 
 
 JESSIE NAYLOR COLE 
 
-1 Y/ E PUBLISH THE LETTERS WRITTEN HOME, WHILE 
 W JOURNEYING THROUGH EGYPT, PALESTINE AND 
 EUROPE, WITH THE HOPE THAT THEY MAY BE OF 
 INTEREST TO THE FRIENDS WHOSE KIND REMEMBRANCES 
 CHEERED US DURING ALL OUR WANDERINGS, AND 
 WHOSE WARM WORDS OF WELCOME GLADDENED OUR 
 HEARTS UPON OUR RETURN HOME :: :: :: :: :: :: 
 
 *y t 
 
PREFACE 
 
 For many years we had had an earnest desire to visit 
 Palestine, so on the i8th of February, 1911, we found our- 
 selves at New York, where we joined the Dunning Party. 
 We boarded the "Carmania" and started on our long voy- 
 age to Egypt and Palestine. As the bugle sounded and the 
 cables loosened, we pulled out from the shore where hun- 
 dreds were waving farewell to dear ones. The old Stars 
 and Stripes seemed to be waving their goodbye to us from 
 the New York harbor, and we felt that it was no light 
 thing to leave home and friends and native land to wander 
 on a foreign strand, but we found as our party gathered 
 around the long dining table, congenial associates, and in- 
 teresting traveling companions. 
 
 Our Conductor from New York to Cairo was Professor 
 Huddleston of the Maine University. At Cairo we joined 
 the rest of our party and Dr. Albert Bailey of Boston, who 
 was our very efficient Conductor through all our travels, 
 returning with us to New York. 
 
 Our twelve days at Cairo were full of interest; the 
 strange people, strange customs, strange looking houses 
 and villages; the long trains of camels, the strange, mys- 
 terious Nile River, the Old Sphinx, the Tombs, the Mosques 
 and minarets, so old and yet so new to us. 
 
 As we traveled over the land of Goshen where Joseph, 
 Mary and the baby Jesus came when fleeing from Herod; 
 where Abraham and Sarah came in time of famine; where 
 the noble Joseph rose from a prison to a palace and be- 
 came ruler over all the land; where Moses came to his 
 wise decision to serve God and reject the pleasures of sin, 
 how real all these incidents of Bible history seemed to us ! 
 How vividly they brought to our minds God's care of His 
 children in all the ages of the world. 
 
 The weeks we spent in Palestine were crowded full of 
 interest. We landed at Joppa, immortalized by Peter and 
 
 226949 
 
his housetop vision ; by the faithful, consecrated Dorcas and 
 her needle; by the disobedient Jonah who embarked from 
 this place upon his perilous journey to Tarshish. 
 
 We spent several days in Jerusalem, around which clus- 
 ter so many things of Biblical interest. We followed the 
 footsteps of our Lord from Jerusalem to Galilee, from 
 Bethlehem to Calvary. We gathered flowers from Geth- 
 semane's Garden; sat in the shade of the olive trees on 
 Olivet, sat down upon the old well of Samaria where Jesus 
 sat when He told the thirsty woman of the living waters; 
 drank at Mary's Well at Nazareth ; walked about the village 
 where Jesus walked in His childhood days. We looked 
 upon Carmel, Hermon and old Mount Tabor, supposed to 
 be the Mount of Transfiguration. We sailed upon the beau- 
 tiful water of Galilee, walked upon its shores and banks 
 made sacred by the Saviour's feet. 
 
 We followed Paul from old Damascus where he began 
 his missionary journeys, to old Rome where he finished 
 his work, and from where he went home to receive his 
 crown. We visited the old cemetery at London with its 
 moss-grown, mildewed monuments; with bowed heads and 
 tearful eyes we walked around the graves of Susanna and 
 John Wesley, George Fox and John Bunyan, and in the 
 stillness of that hottr we breathed a heart-felt prayer that 
 the Lord would help us to serve our generation as faithfully 
 as they had served theirs. 
 
 After all these months of wandering, we returned to 
 our own dear America, with hearts filled with gratitude to 
 Him Who had preserved our going out and our coming in ; 
 thankful that He has given us a greater love for His Word 
 and an intense desire to follow more closely in the footsteps 
 of the Man of Galilee. 
 
 ADDISON W. NAYLOR 
 REBECCA S. NAYLOR 
 JESSIE NAYLOR COLE 
 
 Berkeley, California, November 23, 1911 
 
New York, February 17, 1911 
 
 We feel that it has been a privilege before visiting other 
 lands, to have again first traversed our own, getting a 
 bird's-eye view for comparison with the foreign countries 
 we shall visit. 
 
 We left San Francisco bay at night, and by morning 
 were crossing the trackless wastes of the Mojave desert. 
 For one day we traversed the land of the coyote and the red 
 man. "Lo, the poor Indian," is showing in many ways the 
 effects of civilization; some of them have comfortable, 
 square stone houses, with books, shaded lamps, lace cur- 
 tains, etc. The men take care of the babies in some cases 
 while the women go out into the market-place, which is 
 the railroad station, to sell bead work and gaudy blankets 
 to the tourists, so in some respects they have even gone a 
 step in advance of the white men and the woman-suffragists. 
 But the white people are beginning to realize the possibil- 
 ities of this seemingly desert land, and occasionally we saw 
 the shack of the hardy homeseeker. If our government 
 would only spend on this productive land the money it will 
 spend on dreadnoughts in the next ten years how many 
 families would be given comfortable farms, and what an 
 enormous asset would be added to the nation. 
 
 Now we come to the prosperous states of Colorado and 
 Kansas ; the land of corn and wheat. Monotonous in their 
 sameness are the states of Missouri, Indiana, and Ohio. 
 Then we came to the hills and finally mountains, and found 
 ourselves in historic ground. Occasionally we saw the old 
 hewn-log houses of the pioneers of our country, some of 
 them still inhabited. In "Maryland, My Maryland/* we 
 crossed the river at Harper's Ferry, where "John Brown's 
 body lies a mouldering in the grave." 
 
 Soon we came to Washington, the city of a thousand 
 interests to the patriotic American. We went to the Cap- 
 itol and sat in the gallery of the House, listening to the 
 debate of the wise men concerning Canadian reciprocity. 
 
Across the park is the Congressional Library, one of the 
 most beautiful modern buildings in the world. We also 
 saw the Departmental buildings, and were even permitted 
 a glimpse at the broad back of our honored President. An 
 express train whirled us on to Philadelphia for a short 
 visit with relatives, then on to New York, whence we sail 
 tomorrow, on the Cunard liner Carmania. It is not with 
 entire joy that we push away from the homeland, but we 
 know that all shall be well with us and with our dear ones, 
 for we have had a promise from Him in whom we trust. 
 "He shall preserve thy going out and thy coming in." 
 
 February 18th 
 
 It took courage to stand beside the gang-plank and see 
 it slowly withdrawn, realizing all the time that it was the 
 last thread that bound us to the land of home and friends. 
 It was really the hardest moment in the trip, even, leav- 
 ing home was not so hard. But Mrs. Underhill and Alice 
 obtained a good position on the wharf, waving a white veil 
 as long as we could see. One who has not had the same 
 experience could never guess what a message of consola- 
 tion and good cheer that white spot waved by a friendly 
 hand was to us as we passed from sight of land, out onto 
 the boundless and bounding deep. Then we went to our 
 staterooms, I am afraid to shed a few tears, but the pilot 
 boat had brought the mail, and we found many dear home 
 letters awaiting us, and we forgot to cry. Papa found his 
 daily-remembrance book from the Sunday-school, and alter- 
 nately read and wept until he had finished it all. We felt 
 better after reading these messages from so many dear 
 friends, realizing that with the modern conveniences of 
 mail and wireless, we cannot get far apart on this earth. 
 
 We sat at table tonight with the party who are to be 
 our companions on the trip, seventeen in all, and they 
 seem to be pleasant people. We are to have as our con- 
 ductor as far as Cairo, where we meet Mr. Bailey, Prof. 
 Huddleston, of the chair of Archaeology of Maine Uni- 
 versity. 
 
February 1 9th 
 
 About four o'clock this morning a heavy wind came 
 up with the result that where there had been seventeen at our 
 table last night there were three this morning. Papa is 
 as white as a sheet and has to lie down all the time to hold 
 his own. Mama is taking no chances and stays in bed 
 all the time, so I am the only member of the family on deck. 
 We have on board the Lord and Lady Decies, formerly 
 Vivien Gould, who are on the way to Cairo to spend their 
 honeymoon. This morning there was a Church of England 
 service on board, conducted by the Captain. They have a 
 fine choir composed of some of the stewards, waiters and 
 crew, and they make excellent music, one tenor and so- 
 prano in particular, would grace any city church. The last 
 part was written especially for those who sail the seas, and 
 was a prayer for "those we have left in our homes, the 
 mothers and wives and babies," and the Captain's voice fal- 
 tered as he read, every head was bowed a little lower, and 
 many a horny hand wiped away a tear (and some that 
 were not horny did, too). They have a good band on 
 board, or, more correctly speaking, an orchestra, a fine 
 pianist, two violins and a bass viol, and they play every 
 afternoon and evening. 
 
 February 20th 
 
 We saw the sun for the first time this morning since 
 we started, and the storm seems to be subsiding. Papa is 
 still sick, and I had to fast this morning in order to main- 
 tain my reputation for a good sailor. Her Ladyship was 
 "en retirement" all day and His Lordship stayed out among 
 the passengers and looked awfully lonesome as everyone 
 was afraid to speak to him. 
 
 February 22nd 
 
 I have missed a day, you observe, and the cause can 
 easily be guessed. About two o'clock Tuesday night we 
 ran into a Sou-Wester (it deserves to be capitalized) ; it 
 was entirely too windy to go on deck by morning and I 
 guess no one cared to, anyway. Papa was terribly sick, 
 and just about decided that he would never reach home 
 alive. I was in what Mama called a state of indecision, 
 
but I never lost a meal though I missed some. In the after- 
 noon the storm abated some and I went up on deck. The 
 sea presented a beautiful sight, the deep blue waves capped 
 with white and a beautiful green where the ship divided 
 them, the wind tossing up the spray from the wave crests 
 so that it was like a heavy fog; twice spray from extra 
 large waves dashed clear over the ship and came down in 
 a cloud on the other side. Every passenger on these liners, 
 I suppose, started out with the resolution to walk a mile 
 a day which is seven times around the deck of this vessel, 
 and it is certainly amusing to see the determination with 
 which some do it. It was almost impossible to keep your 
 feet, yet there was one woe-begone young man doggedly 
 pacing off his seven turns ; he leaned against the rail from 
 time to time or hung over it as necessity arose and after 
 staggering around the last time disappeared inside the 
 door triumphantly muttering "seven." Everyone is look- 
 ing forward with much pleasure to the sight of land to- 
 morrow. We shall miss seeing the Azores as they are 
 quarantined, but we shall all be at Gibraltar by noon. 
 
 February 27th 
 
 How I wish I could describe to you the scene that 
 lies before me as I write. We are lying at anchor in a 
 beautifully land-locked bay of indigo-blue water much like 
 San Diego bay. The rock of Gibraltar with its rugged 
 precipitous sides lies straight before us, the white houses 
 of the town stretching along its base and into the green 
 fields beyond. Contrary to what I had always thought, 
 the perpendicular face of the rock, the one so familiar to 
 us as a Prudential Life Insurance advertisement, is on the 
 Mediterranean side so that you must go through the straits 
 to reach it. Stretching from the shore up over the farth- 
 est mountain is a chain of ancient watch towers, the farth- 
 est one being called Isabella's Lamentation, because a 
 Queen sat there and wept in 1714 when she was compelled 
 to give up Gibraltar to the English, who have held it ever 
 since. They have it enormously fortified ; the great rock 
 is honeycombed with galleries and ammunition magazines, 
 and pierced frequently by holes through which they may 
 
project the mouth of cannon in time of war. These cannon 
 were mounted here at enormous expense one hundred years 
 ago, and are now perfectly useless; one of the best argu- 
 ments I know of for disarmament. England is estimated to 
 have spent in fortification of this rock two hundred and 
 fifty million dollars, yet many English statesmen have ad- 
 vocated giving it back to Spain, considering it absolutely 
 useless to the English. 
 
 We went to the little town in a little steam tender 
 and took a three-hours' drive in carriages provided by the 
 Dunning Company and accompanied by a native guide. 
 We went first to the English town and barracks where most 
 of the population are the families of soldiers stationed there, 
 they strut around the town in bright red coats and blue 
 pants, invariably carrying a ridiculous little cane. Here is 
 a beautiful cemetery in which are buried the English sol- 
 diers killed in the battle of Trafalgar Bay; beside it are 
 the Alameda gardens, where you could easily believe you 
 were in Golden Gate Park. Pepper trees, acacia, eucalyp- 
 tus, orange, and many kinds of flower and vining geran- 
 iums reminded us vividly of home. We saw also the dry- 
 docks, ten men-of-war that are always kept in the harbor, 
 and two big guns thirty-two feet long, one hundred tons 
 weight and throwing a two-hundred-pound shell eight 
 miles. 
 
 There are absolutely no wells or springs in the town 
 or near, and they depend for their supply on an enormous 
 cistern which contains water enough for five years. This 
 town is walled, and now they took us through a gate and 
 across a strip of neutral ground to Spanish territory and 
 the city of Linae of 31,000 inhabitants. Arab, Moor, 
 Bedouin, Spanish and all sorts of mixtures; and not a 
 sewer or sanitary arrangement in the place. It was car- 
 nival day and we got to see a regular Spanish festival 
 minus the bull fight. The season for this inhuman sport 
 does not begin until Palm Sunday. There are certainly a 
 large number of very pretty girls, but no pretty young 
 married women or middle-aged; as Mr. Hart says they 
 seem to jump from pretty girlhood to ugly old age. There 
 are droves of children, for the most part comfortably, but 
 
not gaudily dressed; many of them camped right at our 
 heels with "Penny, lady; penny, lady," which was all the 
 English they knew. I wished they knew what "scoot" 
 meant, and suspicion they did, but did not want to let on. 
 We happened on a funeral procession composed of a hearse 
 with a rabble of men walking behind; the women are not 
 allowed to go. 
 
 February 28th 
 
 Today many of our crowd went to shore to purchase 
 drawn-work and Maltese lace, which are the specialties of 
 this port. All day long men have been coming out in small 
 rowboats to sell fish, oranges, dates, etc., and one boy had 
 live devilfish with tentacles about two feet long, a hideous 
 looking thing, but said to be a great delicacy. 
 
 March 2nd 
 
 After a violent storm on the Mediterranean, much 
 worse than any other we have so far experienced, we came to 
 Algiers on the African coast, a town of 38,000 population, 
 belonging to the French, who are gradually crowding out 
 the native Arab inhabitants. The two sections of the city 
 are as different as a modern civilized city and a heathen 
 village. The French have a beautiful city with seven or 
 eight-storied stone buildings, street cars, electric lights, 
 sewers, fine parks, and the hillside dotted with elaborate 
 villas and gardens. Here also we saw the Algiers museum, 
 which has only one claim to fame, as far as we could find 
 out, a plaster cast of Geronimo, who was a Spanish mis- 
 sionary here in 1569, and was put alive into a block of con- 
 crete which was then built into the wall of a fort. This 
 story was not believed, the people thinking it was only 
 a monkish tale. But about sixty years ago the fort was torn 
 down and the block on being split open showed the perfect 
 mould of Geronimo's body. Plaster of paris was poured 
 into this and the cast thus made is on exhibition here. The 
 cord running down the neck appears to be drawn and en- 
 larged from the agony of the face which is plainly visible. 
 
 From this quarter we hired a guide and went into the 
 Arab quarter. Chinatown as it existed in San Francisco 
 
 10 
 
before the fire was an Elysian garden to this. The streets 
 about three feet wide, and their location on a steep hillside 
 is certainly all that saves the inhabitants from constant 
 sickness. As it is, the sewage runs down the middle of 
 the street and into the bay. There are droves of men and 
 children everywhere, but few women to be seen. The 
 children are a pest, following you everywhere and begging. 
 If you give them anything you are worse treated than if 
 you do not, for once they spot you for an "easy-mark," then 
 woe betide you. We went into a cathedral of the Greek 
 church during service, and they had a magnificent organ 
 and men's choir, in fact the ceremony seemed much like 
 the high mass of the Catholic church, and the place of 
 prominence in the church was held by a statue of Christ 
 on the cross. From this we went to a mosque where we 
 must don slippers before we enter for fear our heathen 
 feet might contaminate the holiness of this temple of Mo- 
 hammed. We also visited the summer and winter pal- 
 aces of the Governor, luxurious and showy, but un-home- 
 like except for the beautiful gardens. On a hill-top as we 
 came down was gathered a lot of Mohammedans, having 
 some kind of a ceremony. They were all squatted in a 
 circle around what I suppose they call a band, three men 
 blowing furiously on reeds of various sizes and tones, each 
 having as many as two notes which each man played at 
 will, regardless of the harmony. At the same time a large 
 man in robes and turban was chanting in a monotone more 
 or less varied in loudness, and the result can easily be 
 imagined. They immediately stopped proceedings when 
 we arrived and took up a collection from the "Anglais." 
 
 March 3rd 
 
 Well, we did not "break the bank at Monte Carlo," but 
 preachers, Sunday school superintendents and all, we have 
 set foot on the wickedest spot in the world, and have 
 watched its endless "roulette." After a pleasant sail across 
 the Mediterranean (we have concluded since the storms we 
 encountered here that we were mistaken in calling the 
 other "winds" we have had "storms") we came at last to 
 "terra firma" in sunny France, at Nice, a typical French 
 
 11 
 
city of 40,000 inhabitants, clean, well laid out; with very 
 thrifty-appearing "shops." Here we engaged automobiles, 
 and went in the famous Riviera drive leading to Monte 
 Carlo. The road for the whole distance of nine miles is 
 finely paved, and being on a mountain side, must have been 
 built and maintained at enormous expense, probably by 
 the principality of Monaco, which owns and controls Monte 
 Carlo. Evidences of tireless industry are on every hand, 
 and the farm buildings were so trim and clean! No hill- 
 side is too steep for the Frenchman to farm, they take one 
 covered with stones and carry the stones to make walls 
 which they fill in with dirt and fertilizer, and on these ter- 
 races they have orange trees, olives and vegetables. Above 
 these farms are jagged bluffs of solid rock, and beyond 
 them snow-clad peaks. On the other side below these ter- 
 raced farms is the blue ocean, and over all the clear blue 
 sky. No wonder they call it "La Belle France!" And it 
 is no wonder that foreigners that can do so much with no 
 soil can get rich on American farms. 
 
 Through such scenery as this we came to Mentone, a 
 little gem of a city beside the sea. Here, in a palm-garden 
 on the beach, we ate dinner, the chief ingredients of which 
 were excellently cooked meat and tremendously mildewed 
 cheese, then we went on to Monte Carlo, which is a sub- 
 urb of Mentone. The first thing we remarked is the beauty 
 of the flowers, set out in plots and well cared for, but our 
 attention was soon directed to the people that are throng- 
 ing into the white granite building on the left. I never 
 have seen so much style to the square inch. We went, or 
 rather our conductor went to the hotel Metropole, signed 
 the register with the name and address of each one, and 
 thus obtained a permit for us to enter the gambling places. 
 Once inside the Casino we were sent to a cloak room 
 where we were ordered to lay aside all wraps, cameras, 
 canes, etc. Then we were allowed to enter the main hall, a 
 lofty place of Carrara marble pillars, inlaid floors, and dec- 
 orated with the finest paintings. Here are many tables each 
 surrounded by a crowd, some gambling, others only look- 
 ing on. I am not gambler enough to be able to describe the 
 game, but two things very strongly impressed me. 
 
 12 
 
First, there were more women than men playing; second, 
 the exceedingly hard, impassive faces of the men in charge 
 of the tables. They certainly look like the master they 
 serve, I suppose they have to be destitute of feeling to be 
 a success in this business. It was really a pleasure to get 
 outside and breathe God's free air again. It was unpleas- 
 ant to see so many taking the short-cut to their fate in 
 the hereafter. From here we returned to Villefranche by 
 the Lower Road, just as good as the Cornish, but more 
 direct and following the beach. Certainly a mixed day and 
 such we seem to have in these Mediterranean countries, 
 at one moment much to admire of God's beautiful handi- 
 work, and the work of Christian countries, in the next 
 moment seeing the most flagrant exhibition of man's de- 
 pravity. 
 
 Naples* March 5th 
 
 We came through the beautiful blue waters of the 
 Mediteranean, which was behaving itself, from Villefranche 
 to Naples, following the shore quite closely so that we 
 could see the thrifty, terraced farms. I was disappointed 
 in the Bay of Naples, I had always heard it compared to 
 San Diego Bay, but I think the latter has the advantage. 
 Naples has for years been known as the paradise of beg- 
 gars, but the authorities are trying very hard now to stamp 
 them out. Some almost naked boys came out in boats to 
 dive for money, but a patrol boat came and drove them 
 away, and we were not bothered here as much as in Al- 
 giers. We heard one expression here that fits many things 
 in these Oriental countries. An Italian trying to sell us 
 violets said in his broken English that they were "very 
 smell, very smell." Here we had to call on the police 
 to rid ourselves of the driver, who insisted on more pay 
 than our conductor had agreed to give him. I do not be- 
 lieve an Italian could talk if you were to cut off his arms, 
 this one yelled and gesticulated with his arms until we were 
 almost afraid he was going to kill someone. But it is only 
 their way. This cabman had spent five years in New York, 
 but we saw no evidence of its "civilizing influence" on him. 
 Naples is a clean city as a whole and the most noticeable 
 
 13 
 
thing about it is the statuary. They seem to have it every- 
 where, even making niches in the business blocks for 
 images of Dante, Homer, Macauley, and everybody imag- 
 inable. Here, also, for the first time we saw frequent 
 shrines at the corners of the walls, mostly statues of the 
 Virgin Mary, behind banks of flowers and lighted tapers. 
 
 March 6th 
 
 We slept last night in the shadow of Vesuvius, which 
 is not smoking much, but when we came shortly to Strom- 
 boli we saw a "really, truly volcano," great clouds of smoke 
 coming from it and rising like the pillar of fire that led the 
 Israelites. Instead of going straight across the Mediter- 
 ranean we go along the coast of Italy and through the 
 Straits of Messina, where the earthquake wrought so much 
 damage two years ago. The straits, which are only two 
 miles wide, separate Italy and Sicily. The latter is one 
 of the most thickly populated countries in the world, hav- 
 ing two hundred thousand inhabitants on the small island, 
 so that it is entirely covered with small and fertile farms. 
 Messina was the only city and was very badly wrecked by 
 the earthquake. Across the straits Reggio was just as 
 badly destroyed. Messina was supposed to be the oldest 
 city in Europe, having been founded by Greek colonists 
 five or six centuries before Christ. Also Syracuse was 
 founded shortly after and has today the largest Greek 
 theater in preservation. On this island can be found more 
 well-preserved samples of Doric architecture and temples 
 than in any other place in the world. We are just revers- 
 ing the route that Paul took when he was taken a prisoner 
 to Rome (Acts 2/th chapter). The Syracuse spoken of 
 there was the same and Reggio is the same as Reghyum. 
 We passed Crete, and Melita is the only place we have 
 missed. We saw Mount Aetna, the highest mountain 
 in view and snow-clad except at the crater. The 
 smoke arising from it was white and very hard to discern. 
 Stromboli is the best smoker of the lot. We should have 
 been in Alexandria tomorrow morning but something hap- 
 pened to the engines so we can only go at half speed and 
 will not arrive there until Thursday morning. 
 
 14 
 
March 8th 
 
 Today has certainly been a strenuous one. We got up 
 at six o'clock so as to breakfast at seven on the boat, land 
 and catch the express train for Cairo at nine o'clock. I 
 must tell you about our passing quarantine. They blew 
 the bugle for all first-class passengers to assemble in the 
 dining room. Then an Arab doctor stationed himself at 
 the door and as a steward called our names we went up to 
 the doctor who felt our pulses and looked very searchingly 
 into our faces. Then we passed out. All the crew of four 
 hundred men had to go through the same inspection and 
 we got a clean bill of health. Finally we were ashore and 
 aboard the funniest little train. First was the engine, not 
 as big as our yard engines ; then a baggage car followed by 
 the first-class coaches (no cars, not even freight <:ars, 
 are more than twenty-four feet long) which are divided 
 into four compartments holding six each, very comfortable 
 and upholstered in leather. Next the second-class coaches 
 like our Southern Pacific coaches only smaller; then "cattle 
 cars" with lengthwise seats for the third-class, in this case 
 mostly Arabs. We saw some cattle in ordinary freight 
 cars and each car held six cows. That ride from Cairo to 
 Alexandria was certainly memorable and interesting, so dif- 
 ferent from anything we had ever seen. In one group we 
 saw a donkey loaded till you could hardly see him, a camel 
 also heavily loaded, a wagon, and a woman carrying a load 
 of sugar cane larger than herself. It is a beautiful green 
 fertile looking country as far as the overflow of the Nile 
 reaches, but a sudden and very well defined line marks the 
 division of desert and green fields. Mud villages, which 
 can be deserted without much loss when the Nile over- 
 flows, line the track and it is pleasant to see finally the stone 
 buildings and lofty minarets of Cairo. Here we stop at 
 Shepheards Hotel, which for fifty years has been the swell 
 tourist hotel of Egypt. Here we met the party which had 
 spent thirty days in Egypt, and Mr. Bailey, who had been 
 their conductor and is to be ours for the rest of the trip. 
 All of us like him and anticipate a pleasant and profitable 
 trip under his guidance. For a native guide or dragoman, 
 
 15 
 
as they are called, we have Machmud, a delightfully dig- 
 nified, serene-looking Mohammedan. 
 
 March 9th 
 
 Our first afternoon in Cairo was spent in visiting 
 mosques. We saw first that of Ibm Toulun, not nearly so 
 ornate as some but more noteworthy because it contains the 
 first use of the horse-shoe arch which is so popular with 
 the Egyptians. Its pillars are built of brick covered with 
 stucco. The view from the top of its minaret gave us a 
 splendid idea of the city. To the right were low hills called 
 the Macadam hills, from which rise the domes of the tombs 
 of the Caliphs. This was originally a school mosque and 
 very much resembled the old missions of California with 
 its court and colonnade. Every mosque has its Mecca 
 niche, more or less elaborate, pointing out to the worship- 
 pers the East, for they must always pray with their faces in 
 that direction. The next mosque was that of Ali Hassan, 
 which was never completed because after his death his 
 family refused to furnish the necessary funds. It was built 
 in the shape of a cross, for by this time the Mohammedans 
 were divided into four sects and each had an arm of the 
 mosque to worship in. The third was the mosque of Mo- 
 hammed Ali and his son, Mohammed Ibraham. When 
 Napoleon was asked to select a strong Sultan to rule Egypt, 
 he proved his ability to properly judge men by choosing 
 a young officer of the Mameluke regiment, a company of 
 the earliest Christians. This Pasha, Mohammed Ali, be- 
 came one of the strongest rulers Egypt has had, and he 
 was ahead of his generation in many ways and began a 
 system of public schools. He built this fine mosque and 
 on its walls is a fine bronze tower sent from France by 
 Napoleon as a gift, but looking strangely out of place amid 
 this Arabian stolidity. This mosque is still used, although 
 not as a school mosque as was originally intended, and its 
 lofty dome is on a magnificent scale of beauty and grandeur, 
 being very ornately decorated with leaf gold. The main 
 floor, walls and pillars are all of the most resplendent ala- 
 baster which is a kind of white granite that takes on the 
 softest brown tones with age. Mohammed Ali and his son, 
 
 16 
 
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 CO Cfi 
 U] Q 
 
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 U r* 
 
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Mahpmmed Ibraham, the greatest general that Egypt has 
 produced, are both buried here. The memorial or burial 
 mosque can be distinguished by the large round dome 
 which always surmounts the burial place. This mosque 
 is inside the old citadel which overlooked the city and 
 was a point of vantage to control or defend it. Here is 
 where the famous Mameluke massacre took place. Mo- 
 hammed AH after his accession to power put into high 
 places his Mameluke friends, so that the regiment or tribe 
 became very influential, so powerful in fact that Ali began 
 to fear them. So after he was firmly seated he began 
 to plan for their downfall. One night he invited them to 
 a splendid feast. Four hundred of them were inside of 
 the citadel and after they had wined and dined they started 
 to depart. They mounted their horses and on trying to go 
 through the narrow passage to the outer gate found the latter 
 locked and when they turned back the inner gate was also 
 locked. Immediately soldiers began firing on them from 
 the walls above and everyone was killed. Just outside the 
 walls of this citadel is a fragment of the old Saladin wall, 
 a wall of sun-dried mud brick made by some of the proud- 
 est nobles of Europe when they were in captivity during 
 the Crusades. 
 
 March I Oth 
 
 Today we went out to see the far-famed Pyramids 
 with which everyone is familiar. They are somewhat more 
 mutilated than the pictures of them indicate. Any Pasha 
 who wished to build a mosque considered these pyramids 
 lawful plunder, and they have all been stripped of their 
 covering of great granite blocks, and the softer limestone 
 left exposed. Many of the smaller pyramids thus left ex- 
 posed to the elements are being rapidly obliterated. Cheops, 
 the largest one, was built about 2800 B. C. and covered 
 at that time seventeen acres of ground. It is built on the 
 solid rock and there is yet in the center a place where the 
 architect had drilled one hundred feet into the rock to dis- 
 cover if this was a suitable foundation for so great a weight. 
 The kings of Egypt had discovered that in spite of the pre- 
 cautions taken by their forerunners, their tombs were des- 
 
 17 
 
ecrated, so they determined that their own sarcophagi 
 should be safely housed. Accordingly they built these 
 great pyramids and after the body was put in, the passage 
 to the outside was sealed up so that no one could tell from 
 the exterior where to begin to search for the passage. 
 Ryder Haggard's "Cleopatra" gives the best description of 
 the interior of these pyramids, the one of which Haggard 
 speaks is the smallest of this group, but the oldest. We 
 could not but wonder how these enormous blocks could 
 have been brought here by those old Egyptians. Many of 
 them weigh twenty tons and were brought from seventy 
 miles up the river on rafts, and pulled up to the pyramids, 
 three miles from the Nile on giant causeways of rock, the 
 building of which was the first step toward the erection of 
 a pyramid. It is said to have taken twenty thousand men 
 ten years to build one causeway. The pyramids are three 
 miles from Cairo and are reached by electric car or car- 
 riage on a broad tree-lined boulevard. This road has an 
 interesting history. Michael Pasha was notified that the 
 Empress Eugenia was to pay him a visit, and the only way 
 to get to the large pyramids which he was particularly 
 anxious to show her was by camel back. So he con- 
 scripted one hundred men and in three weeks they had 
 built this splendid road that Eugenia might ride in com- 
 fort, and certainly all tourists today owe them a debt of 
 gratitude for the unusually comfortable road. 
 
 Each of these pyramids had connected with it a tem- 
 ple, but only one of these is preserved, that of Kepphren, 
 or the second one. This is very impressive in the grandeur 
 of simple hewn-granite pillars and alabaster floors. Here 
 the twelve statues of Kepphren were found in a well, 
 where they had been thrown by some pillaging band who 
 had first broken most of them. On our first visit the 
 Sphinx was a great disappointment to us. While it is only 
 ten minutes' walk from the first pyramid, you get within 
 two hundred yards or so of it before you see it. It would 
 be absolutely covered with sand had it not been excavated 
 many times, for the top is but very little above the level 
 of the surrounding country, but the sand is dug out around 
 it so that the shoulders and head are visible. Beneath the 
 
sand are the great paws (the Sphinx is the body of a lion 
 and the head of a man) twenty feet long, and the temple 
 is between them. The figure is smaller than I had ex- 
 pected, and had been used as a target by the Mamelukes 
 so that the nose and beard are missing and the face very 
 much mutilated, and I could not discover much of the 
 "expression of mystery" generally reputed to this figure. 
 But on Sunday evening we went to eat lunch by moonlight 
 and sit for a while with these wonders of the past and I 
 could never tell what an impression this great man-animal 
 made on all of us as we saw it then. The only definite 
 record of any kind that we have of it is a metal tablet be- 
 tween the paws and now below the sand, on which it says : 
 "I, Thothmes fourth, was one day resting beside this great 
 riddle " showing that even in 1800 or 2000 B. C. this great 
 Sphinx was here and even then a mystery. The moonlight 
 casts a romantic halo about it and obscures the disfigure- 
 ment of the face, and the expression of ineffable longing 
 becomes plainer. This seems to mean something different 
 to each one who sees it, but to me it seemed to be a reach- 
 ing out after that which the Egyptians so long had sought, 
 an adequate God that could promise them absolutely eter- 
 nal life. 
 
 This afternoon we had what was to me the most inter- 
 esting time of our trip so far. We have been seeing the de- 
 graded Egyptians of today, but now we went arid dwelt for 
 a time with the lordly Egyptians of three or four thousand 
 years ago. Up to seven years ago, any antiquities dug up 
 were taken away by whoever found them, but at that time, 
 under the influence of a famous French scholar named 
 Mariette, the Egyptian museum was started in Cairo, and 
 all things excavated must be brought here and can only 
 be sold on the consent of the government. So they have 
 gathered here a very valuable collection. It means a great 
 deal to have with you a man who' can interpret these things 
 properly and enthusiastically, and we have such a one in 
 Prof. Bailey, so when I impart to you an astonishing 
 amount of knowledge I do not deserve the credit, as much 
 I write is taken from his lectures. 
 
 All Egyptian art as well as much of the more modern 
 
 19 
 
art hinges on a desire to obtain immortality, the difference 
 between Egyptian and Grecian art being that the first was 
 an attempt to immortalize man, the second to make eternal 
 their conceptions of gods, so that the Egyptian art is literal 
 at the expense of the beautiful, while the Grecian is graceful 
 and lithe often at the expense of the literal. The early 
 Egyptians of 4000 years B. C. had a great longing for im- 
 mortality of the soul so those that could afford it conceived 
 the idea of putting the body into stone coffins and sealing 
 them up, thus hoping to overcome decay. Then they came 
 to believe in a spirit in the body which needed sustenance 
 so they began to paint symbols and make the sarcophagi 
 in the form of a house, with windows sculptured on the 
 side, and a door so that the spirit could go in and out at 
 will. A libation table was just outside on which the sons of 
 descendants of the deceased were supposed to keep eatables 
 for the spirit. But they soon found that these things were 
 not consumed so they merely painted pictures of the need- 
 ful things on the interior walls of the tomb, and began to 
 build them with several rooms where the spirit could roam 
 at will. These were called Mastabas, and on their walls 
 we have complete reproductions of the way of obtaining 
 and preparing food; we see the oxen being lassoed, killed 
 and cut up; the process of sowing and reaping wheat, the 
 idea being that all things the man would want in spirit 
 land must be represented. Soon the richer Egyptians began 
 to have these images cut into the walls and this is the first 
 beginning of sculpture. They represented things in size 
 according to their importance, the master is always large, 
 the wife about up to his knees, and the servants much more 
 insignificant. They considered the profile to be the most 
 important aspect of the face so presented it that way, but 
 a front view of the eye was important so with no idea 
 apparently of the incongruity, they put the front view of 
 the eye into the side view of the face. Breadth of chest 
 and shoulder were a sign of strength so they attached a 
 front view of the chest to this side view of the face. But 
 at the waist their ideas changed again and since breadth of 
 thigh was desirable they unceremoniously twisted the man 
 and presented a side view of his legs. And the thumbs and 
 
 20 
 
great toe are always on the same side of hand or foot. The 
 prevailing characteristic of the Egyptian then as now seems 
 to have been adherence to ancient traditions and customs, 
 so this type of picture was always the proper one for grave 
 pictures. When they were painting something ordinary 
 on which they were free to show their own tastes they did 
 wonderfully well, as in the earliest known example of oil 
 painting, which we saw here. It is of geese and is very 
 lifelike. 
 
 But now these old eternal-life seekers went one step 
 farther and began to worship Osiris, the god of life, and 
 they believed in the reincarnation of the soul. So they 
 thought necessary to provide an image of the body for the 
 soul to re-enter, and spent much money in hiring sculptors. 
 According as they were able they provided two or three of 
 these so that if one were lost or broken there would still be 
 a perfect image left for the spirit to enter. At first they 
 were made of wood, and the one in the museum is ex- 
 tremely lifelike, and was made about 3000 B. C. Then they 
 began to chisel them out of hard stones and the richest had 
 theirs made of diorite, the hardest known substance. It is 
 certainly pitiful to see this continual striving against the 
 elements which they knew must sooner or later bring them 
 to oblivion. Of course, the millions who could not hire 
 these things done for them had no hope of a life hereafter. 
 King Kepphren, who built the second pyramid, had a statue 
 of himself placed in the temple every year, but all of these 
 were broken and thrown into a deep well as we have said 
 before, and only six years ago were found and the best put 
 in this museum. Another king had twelve life-size statues 
 of himself set around his tomb which are particularly not- 
 able for the strength of character expressed in the face. A 
 pair of statues shown here are interesting and serve 
 as a type of many others. Queen Hadishue, who had a very 
 romantic history, had ruled with an iron and treacherous 
 hand and had raised women to the place where their images 
 were made the same size as those of the men. So here we 
 have portrayed by statues of the same size, a noble woman 
 and her husband. The whole face of the woman expresses 
 high caste and pride, but she had married a man who had 
 
 21 
 
risen from the common people, and while his face shows 
 strength and ability, still there is an almost imperceptible 
 look of humility. The woman is always represented in 
 white stone, the men in dark, because their vocations are 
 supposed to take them out into the sun more. 
 
 Now we come to the second period of Egyptian re- 
 ligion. All these years rich men had been leaving endow- 
 ments to pay priests for saying the incantations necessary 
 for the spirit to extract spiritual sustenance from the sym- 
 bols, so a priesthood had grown up and had begun to dis- 
 seminate ideas of their own. Hence grew up a religion of 
 gods and of evil genii which the priest must be paid to 
 placate. Now before a man finally became incarnated into 
 Osiris he must make a difficult journey of twelve stages. 
 On his first lap he was met by Hathor, the goddess of love, 
 incarnate in a cow, who gave him milk by which he gained 
 strength to continue on his journey. So they began to offer 
 libations to the images of his goddess-cow, the first in- 
 stance of offering sacrifices to gods. The statue of this 
 goddess Hathor is one of the finest in the museum. It 
 shows the form of a man, colorless and dead, leaning 
 against the front of the cow for support ; then he is kneeling 
 and drinking milk from her udder, and here he has a vivid 
 color as if life had been put into him. About 1500 B. C. the 
 god Osiris was supposed to have lost his life because of 
 the evil incantations of his wife, but he was given by 
 Hathor a symbol which restored him, and this is the first 
 mention of a resurrection. Here We see also pictures of 
 Egyptians dancing before gods, just as David did later 
 "with psaltry and harp." Also in this time we have the 
 forerunner of the ark of the covenant, in the shrines which 
 the Egyptians made, and which were a development of the 
 old libation-table. It was placed on a boat because that 
 was the only means of transportation known to them. This 
 was kept in a holy of holies in the Egyptian temple and 
 God permitted the Children of Israel to use an adaptation 
 of it. 
 
 In 1225 B. C. is found the first mention of the Children 
 of Israel. On a stone recording the doings of a Pharaoh 
 of that time it says that he had carried away captive many 
 
 22 
 
tribes, mentioning as one of them that of Israel. This con- 
 firmation of the Bible story of the Egyptian captivity was 
 dug up only a few years ago. 
 
 March 11th 
 
 This afternoon we took our second visit to the museum 
 to inspect the more modern finds of Egyptian antiquities, 
 those of the 2oth to i8th dynasties, or about the time of 
 the Israelites in history. In the I7th dynasty the idea of 
 putting in spirit pictures to minister to the dead changed 
 and they began to put in little statues and charms, and here 
 we find the first scarabs. One high official who was afraid 
 of his enemies in the future life had little images of his 
 bodyguard of light and heavy infantry put into his coffin 
 and these are in the museum. So in latter days there came 
 to be hundreds of these little "answeri" put in who were 
 to say to the master's spirit when it called, "Here am I." 
 These were often sent to the funeral by friends in the place 
 of flowers. Then the process of mumifying began, first 
 a crook was inserted through the nostrils by means of 
 which the brains were pulled out, then an incision was 
 made in the left side through which the heart, lungs, liver, 
 and great intestines were taken out, and these were put 
 in separate jars of alabaster filled with spices, and sealed. 
 The head of the god that was expected to protect these was 
 carved on the top of the jar, and he was expected to keep 
 them intact for the use of the spirit in after life. Then an 
 image of the sacred beetle or "scarab" was put in place of 
 the heart with the inscription, "O my heart, rise not up 
 against me in the day of judgment." Then a charm look- 
 ing like two fingers was inserted in the mouth and worked 
 up and down to enable the spirit to talk and this charm was 
 put into the coffin so that the spirit himself could use it 
 if necessary. The body was next put into a peculiar kind 
 of pickle for forty days, then taken out and filled with 
 spices, and where we read in the Bible of men going down 
 into Egypt bearing spices they were merchants engaged in 
 a then lucrative business because of this peculiar burial 
 custom. Then the body was wrapped in hundreds of yards 
 of fine linen, and various gold and bead trappings put on it, 
 
then with the charms it was put into a body-shaped coffin, 
 which in turn was put into another of the same kind, then 
 another. This was put into a stone sarcophagi, into which 
 was put some more images. Then this was put into a tomb 
 with the chairs, chariots, beds, etc., which the spirit must 
 have for his comfort. But if a dead man was to use these 
 they must also be killed, so they were broken in several 
 places before being put in. Still another ceremonial was 
 necessary. A large board was sprinkled with soil in which 
 wheat was planted in the shape of Osiris. This was allowed 
 to grow until six inches tall and then dried up and put into 
 the sarcophagus as a symbol of the resurrection of the body. 
 Possibly Christ may have been thinking of this when He 
 said, "Except a grain of wheat fall into the ground and 
 die ... ." 
 
 Nine years ago Theodore M. Davis of Chicago, who 
 puts much time and money into excavating here, stumbled 
 onto a tomb which had been practically untouched and 
 much valuable information has been obtained from it. It 
 proved to be the burial place of the parents of the wife of 
 Arminhotep, III, a common girl whom he very much loved 
 and raised from the ranks to reign with him on the throne. 
 Their mummies, extremely well preserved even to their 
 hair, finger nails and teeth, together with all their trap- 
 pings are here in the Theodore M. Davis room. Adjoining 
 this is the room in which is the greatest authentic mummy, 
 that of Rameses II, the greatest ruler of Egypt and 
 probably the Pharaoh of the oppression of the Children of 
 Israel. His was the nineteenth dynasty and he reigned 
 sixty-seven years, dying at the age of ninety-seven. Here 
 3000 years and more after his death we children of a day 
 come and look upon his actual features together with those 
 of his father Seti I, a fine-looking old gentleman, and of 
 his son, Rameses III, the Pharaoh of the Exodus. These 
 corpses have their hands crossed in imitation of Osiris. We 
 still cross the hands of our dead loved ones. Why? 
 
 The next thing we saw of interest was the papyri. One 
 especially interesting is a picture of the weighing of a heart 
 in the presence of Osiris, the first idea of final judgment, in 
 other words the first acknowledgement that man is to be 
 
 24 
 
F 2 
 
 Q < 
 
 
 UJ L J 
 
 f i 
 
judged and punished or rewarded for his deeds in this 
 world. It is a picture of a man's heart in a balance on one 
 side, and truth in the other. Osiris is watching and if 
 they balance, the man's spirit is sent to the Elysian fields; 
 if not, it is devoured by a great monster that sits by. There 
 is also a recording angel with book and pen in hand. Here 
 again these people who were trying so hard to solve the 
 mystery of their after-life, were misled by a wicked priest- 
 hood, who persuaded them that by giving offerings and 
 money to the priests they would be able to pray a lost soul 
 through the judgment. 
 
 March 12th 
 
 We went this afternon to Heliopolis, in the land of 
 Goshen, which Joseph allotted to his father and brothers 
 when they came to dwell with him in Egypt. This was 
 the seat of the university in which Moses was educated, 
 and here in this beautiful and fertile country, the Khedive 
 of Egypt has his palace. 
 
 JWarch 13th 
 
 Today was a great day, we spent the whole day in an 
 excursion to Sakkara, where the most recent excavations 
 are. But it was not so much the place as the manner of 
 our going. We had to ride for ten miles along the desert, 
 and we had our choice of four means of locomotion ; 
 camels, donkeys, sand-carts or "shanks mare." Mama chose 
 the sand-cart, papa rode camel-back part of the way and 
 I rode a donkey, since I had ridden a camel to the pyra- 
 mids and one experience was enough. Whichever way you 
 take you are sure to wish you had taken the other. Mary 
 Payne, one of our young ladies, fell off twice, but I suc- 
 ceeded in staying on. The donkey-boys ran along beside 
 us, as patient and indefatigable as their donkeys, in fact 
 it. is wonderful how strong these people are. It is nothing 
 to see a man carrying a trunk weighing probably two hun- 
 dred pounds, and on top of it several suit cases, all held 
 on his back by means of a strap around his forehead. He 
 strikes a little jog-trot and can carry such a load indefin- 
 itely. Today we saw a woman carrying a large gunny - 
 
 25 
 
sack of cauliflowers on her head. But to go back to our 
 Memphis trip. We encountered a small sand storm just 
 enough of a one to give us a fair idea of what a disagree- 
 able thing they could be. Memphis or Sakkara, was at 
 the time of the Pharaohs, the chief city of Egypt, and ex- 
 tended up the river from the pyramids for thirteen miles, 
 and in this space many interesting finds have been made. 
 Three examples of rock-hewn tombs are unearthed here, 
 very interesting in their spirit pictures and their por- 
 trayal of Egyptian life. Among the excavations were 
 found the ruins of a great temple of Rameses II, the 
 Pharaoh of the oppression, and here we saw two enor- 
 mous statues of him, one in granite and one in limestone. 
 We took the train for Cairo and were grateful for the bath 
 and bed that night, and all of us got up or sat down for 
 several days afterward in a rather gingerly fashion. 
 
 JKarch 14th 
 
 Today we went to the University mosque of Cairo, the 
 only public school. The building in which it is held was 
 erected 900 years ago by the Sultan Hassan Ali, and an 
 American boy would stick up his nose at it, for it is only 
 a colonnade built around an open court in each corner of 
 which are boxes where each boy may keep his books, din- 
 ner and bed, for many live right here, stretching out to 
 sleep on a piece of matting, and pulling an old cloak or 
 coat over them if they have it. School begins at seven 
 o'clock, when the professors come and hear lessons until 
 nine, then the pupils study until four, when lessons are 
 heard until six o'clock. Each professor has a chair, but 
 the pupils are seated on the floor. There are 13,000 stu- 
 dents, most of them here studying at the same time, and 
 it sounded bad enough when they were only studying, 
 but it must sound like pandemonium let loose when the 
 recitations are going on. Little boys and a few girls come 
 here and study for two years; then if they pass satisfac- 
 tory examinations they are allowed two loaves of bread 
 a day by the government as a help to their further educa- 
 tion; then if their work is satisfactory at the end of two 
 years more they are given four loaves a day, and so on 
 
 26 
 
through a course of twelve years, after which they are 
 mostly given government positions. Our guide, Machmud, 
 had four years here, but intends to educate his boy in Eng- 
 land. He belongs to the better class of Mohammedans 
 and is as simple and sincere in his beliefs as any Christian. 
 He rejects the tradition of Mohammed flying around 
 through the air just as we reject the vagaries of some 
 fanatics in our own religion. He gave us a very different 
 idea of his religion, and we realized that there were stages 
 of sanity among the Mohammedans just as there is in 
 everything. They believe in Christ much as the Unitarians 
 do, that He was a great prophet and a great teacher, but 
 they put Mohammed first. Few of the best class have 
 more than one wife and they do not let their wives work. 
 We have seen more women working in the fields, and car- 
 rying heavy burdens in Palestine, and there are few 
 Moslems here. 
 
 Connected with this school is an interesting library, 
 which was founded seven hundred years ago, its nucleus 
 being the "books of the Caliphs," which are still on ex- 
 hibition. It was the duty of each Caliph or King to keep 
 an accurate record of his reign, and when the library was 
 started these were given to it. The original Koran is here 
 but not on exhibition. It was printed 600 A. D. on pot- 
 tery. 
 
 MCarch 15th 
 
 There is a section of Cairo which is occupied by the 
 Copts or ancient Christians who very carefully preserved 
 their traditions, among others a church over a grotto, in 
 which Mary and Joseph are supposed to have lived with 
 the infant Jesus. Here also is the Mosque of Omar 
 with its colonnade of 365 pillars stolen from pillaged 
 churches. There are two pillars by which Omar used to 
 test a man's veracity; if he could go between them he was 
 adjudged honest; if not, a liar. As the pillars are not 
 much more than a foot apart, few people must have been 
 able to stand the test. We ferried across the river Nile to 
 the Island of Rhoda, one of the places pointed out as the 
 site of Moses' rescue from the bulrushes, for a wonder they 
 
 27 
 
do not show you the selfsame bulrushes but here we also 
 saw a Nile meter which was interesting. It was built by 
 a Caliph who wished to be just in the matter of taxes, so 
 he built this to measure the overflow of the Nile and in pro- 
 portion as it was large or small he increased or decreased 
 the tax rate. 
 
 On Thursday we took the train for Port Said there to 
 await our boat for Joppa. En route we pass again through 
 the beautiful wheat fields of the Land of Goshen, and 
 cross the oldest established road known to man, the Syrian 
 road, by which Abraham came down to Egypt, over which 
 Joseph and Jacob traveled. Soon we came to the Suez 
 canal and began to see ocean steamers apparently plowing 
 through the sand. The building of this canal through a 
 level stretch of sand was nothing to the building of the 
 Panama canal, as De Lesseps found to his sorrow. A large 
 statue of him stands on the breakwater at Port Said in 
 memory of his accomplishment. Port Said has become 
 quite an important city because of its location at the en- 
 trance of the canal, and 11,000 of its inhabitants are for- 
 eigners. We found that our boat was delayed on account 
 of a severe storm and not until Sunday did we have the 
 pleasure of seeing her come into port. We set sail imme- 
 diately; the vessel was a Russian freighter, and our party 
 were the only first-class passengers, but the least said about 
 this private yacht the better. Our regular accommodations 
 were to have been on the Khedival line but as it would have 
 delayed us several days so we chose to take this our 
 memories of it are not kind, though the crew did their 
 best, and gave us a good dinner before we got to sea. They 
 could afford it, though, for no one ate any breakfast the next 
 morning. One bright spot was Sunday eve before the 
 "rocking of the deep" began. Mr. Bailey plays from mem- 
 ory almost any tune we could suggest, and it certainly does 
 add greatly to our enjoyment. There was a little old 
 wheezy piano in the dining room, and we sang good old 
 home tunes and hymns, but "Home, Sweet Home" is 
 tabooed, there is not one of us who could sing it through 
 with dry eyes, but how lustily we all sang "And the Star- 
 spangled Banner, oh, long may it wave, O'er the land of 
 the free and the home of the brave." 
 
 28 
 
After a night of plunging and tossing, sea sickness, and 
 stifling air, for we could not keep the portholes of our vessel 
 open, came the welcome cry "The Judean hills are in sight." 
 But there was still much for us to endure before we set foot 
 in Palestine. Mama used to tell me when I was young 
 that there was "no excellence without great labor," that 
 nothing worth having was to be had except by great effort, 
 perhaps that is why you must go through Joppa to get to 
 Palestine. A perfect Babel of voices aroused us in the 
 morning (you will never know what Babel is until you 
 come to this country). This was the boatmen come to take 
 us and our baggage to the shore, about a half mile away. 
 They pitch the baggage into the little boats right from the 
 deck and, strange to say, it seldom falls into the water. 
 The passengers are led as sheep to the slaughter down a 
 narrow ship's stairway and pitched into the boats from 
 this lower level, and the wild race for shore began. The 
 waves were tossing the boats about like corks, trying to 
 wreck us on the jagged rocks, the pains of seasickness 
 "gat hold upon us and we were sore afraid." This was 
 where the whale was supposed to have cast up Jonah, and 
 it is no wonder that he did. Those of us who had so far 
 maintained reputations for good sailors, lost them here, and 
 Papa, who through fourteen days of seasickness might 
 have been supposed to have lost everything removable from 
 his interior anatomy, wisely put his teeth into his pocket 
 for safe keeping. One young man held his own until we 
 reached the door of the custom house, where he passed 
 up his dinner for inspection. So through all this we came 
 safely and were actually on the land of Christ. We only 
 stayed in Joppa long enough to eat lunch and go to the 
 house of Simon the tanner. Whether this is the spot where 
 Peter had his vision or not, it is at least the vicinity, and 
 this housetop affords a fine view of the surrounding coun- 
 try. But it is certain that into this bay (improperly so- 
 called) floated the cedars of Lebanon for the temple in 
 Jerusalem. From here we take train for Jerusalem, 
 through a country which was I think a revelation to all of 
 us. Coming from the deserts of Egypt with only the flat 
 strip of Nile country green, this land must have been a 
 
paradise to the Israelites. Around Joppa are orange trees 
 loaded with yellow fruit, in spite of the fact that the trees 
 were crowded together, and little care given to them. They 
 never have orange pests here; if they did, the trees would 
 certainly all be gone in no time. Soon we reach the rocky 
 hills, with the blue Moab mountains looming in the dis- 
 tance. Here in the valley are green fields of wheat, and 
 on the stone-terraced hills olive groves and vineyards. 
 Farther as we climb the hills, for Jerusalem is 2500 feet 
 above sea level, we reach a country so rocky that it is 
 given over to pasturage for black goats which dot the 
 rocks and clamber everywhere. Passing through Ramleh 
 and Lydda, both Bible towns, we finally come into sight of 
 Jerusalem perched on its hill-tops, and more modern than 
 ancient. The train stops at the foot of the hill, and out- 
 side of the walls ; in fact, more of Jerusalem now lies out- 
 side the walls. Our hotel is just outside the old walls and 
 as we go to it, we have a good chance to examine the wall 
 to its very foundations; by the cut and size of the stones 
 one could easily tell that it had often been destroyed and 
 rebuilt. But the foundation stones were certainly put there 
 by Solomon, though few of them are visible above the 
 debris, and the needles-eye, of which we read, was torn 
 down four years ago to allow the carriage of the Emperor 
 William to pass through, and a modern stone clock tower 
 adorns (?) its top. 
 
 Our first trip in Jerusalem is to the top of the Grand 
 Central Hotel, just inside the Jaffa gate, from which we ob- 
 tained a splendid vista of the city and its main points of 
 interest. The temple area (the site of Solomon's temple) 
 stands out very distinctly from this point with its great 
 black dome of the Mosque of Omar, which stands in its 
 midst. The Moslems hardly allow the Christians to have 
 a single sacred spot, a mosque is pretty sure to cover these 
 Biblical sites. Against the eastern sky line is the Mount 
 of Olives, topped with the modern stone tower of a Greek 
 church. Be3>-ond this, thirty miles away are the blue Moab 
 mountains, shadowing the Jordan Valley and the Dead Sea. 
 Dotting the hills to the north are several stone hospices 
 which are interesting in themselves. Thousands of poor 
 
 30 
 
pilgrims come here to worship in the places sacred to their 
 church, the Greek. They walk all the way, only going 
 by boat where it is absolutely necessary. Most of them are 
 Russians or German of the poorer class, and of course they 
 must have some place to stay while here, so these hospices 
 are provided for them, by whom I do not know. It is now 
 nearing their Easter and the country is full of these pil- 
 grims; men and women in awkward garments and heavy 
 boots, all carrying bundles or buckets, or baskets, most 
 of them middle-aged or past, some of them look to be 
 seventy. From here we saw also the innumerable little 
 domes which I had always supposed denoted the residences 
 of Moslems, but they are simply made that way so as to 
 shed the water and run it into the cisterns, which are the 
 only source of water supply. 
 
 From this general view of Jerusalem, we went first 
 to see the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. As a building, 
 this was a great disappointment ; most of the grandeur that 
 we read about is pretty badly tarnished, and the interior is 
 so squat and broken up, with none of the lofty domes and 
 beautiful mosaics of the mosques. And it is really ridicu- 
 lous to be taken around an area of 150 square feet and 
 shown the places where Christ was tried, judged, went to 
 Golgotha, executed, laid out, buried, and resurrected, and 
 just to give you good measure they can also show you the 
 tomb of Adam ! In spite of this the sentimental effect is 
 entirely different from what one would expect. This 
 church was built by Constantine 336 A. D., and around 
 it have been waged the wars of the Crusaders, and of Greek 
 and Latin disciples, etc., so that it has had to be rebuilt 
 many times, and here for 1500 years and more thousands of 
 Christians have come to pay tribute to their King and ours. 
 Some of the incense of their simple faith and devotion clings 
 around the place, for one is affected with great reverence 
 for these venerated stones, false though they may be ; they 
 are still the expression of love and worship of thousands 
 for the Savior of mankind. 
 
 The church is divided for the sake of peace between the 
 Greeks, Latins and Armenians, the Greeks possessing the 
 greater part. Some of their shrines are very fine, being 
 
 31 
 
inlaid with gold and mother-of-pearl, and set with very 
 precious jewels. But through all this, the astounding para- 
 dox exists that a Turkish soldier must attend you to pro- 
 tect you from your Christian brothers, Greek, Roman, or 
 Armenian, who otherwise might do you bodily harm. The 
 only way to get any good from a visit to this country is 
 to set aside all these strifes, foolish traditions, and impos- 
 sible absurdities, and simply to remember that here through 
 all the years men have sought, according to their several 
 abilities and light, to do reverence to the humble Christ, 
 who lived and taught in this degraded land. The next 
 place we visited was the Upper Room of the Last Supper, 
 which seems to have a certain degree of authenticity. It 
 was the house of the mother of Mark, and here the disciples 
 came after the crucifixion, and the Holy Ghost fell upon 
 them. The site was occupied by a small church when the 
 Crusaders came and they built a fine one which in turn 
 was destroyed by the Mohammedans; and a mosque now 
 stands on the spot. 
 
 The next morning we spent our time in the Temple 
 Area, which is undoubtedly the place of Solomon's Temple, 
 and has been occupied by a temple of some kind ever since. 
 It is probably where the temple stood, in which the parents 
 of Christ found Him disputing with the elders when He 
 was twelve years of age and He also taught here in His 
 mature years. On the southwest wall was the Tower of 
 Antonio where Paul was imprisoned. The ground was a 
 threshing floor purchased by David on which to build an 
 altar and it has had the same use ever since. Here Solo- 
 mon built his magnificent temple in 950 B. C., which was 
 destroyed by Nebuchednezzar 46 B. C. Herod the Great, 
 as a salve to the feelings of the Jews, built here a very 
 fine temple, which after its destruction was replaced by 
 Nehemiah. This one was destroyed by Titus 70 A. D. and 
 a temple to Jupiter built in its stead. This was captured by 
 the Mohammedans, and during the crusades went back and 
 forth several times between them and the Christians. The 
 church or mosque which now stands in the middle of the 
 area was built by Justinian in the sixth century, and is a 
 composite of church and mosque, the mosque part much 
 
 32 
 
o o 
 
 5 " 
 
 *<. o 
 
 Z H 
 
 K/ UJ 
 
 ^ 3 
 
 ^ S 
 hi 
 
 X 
 H 
 
surpassing in beauty the Christian. The few remains of the 
 old mosaic to be seen on the walls of the dome, are dainty 
 and soft in their blending of colors, also the absence of 
 sharp edges or angles which is characteristic of the Bysan- 
 tine arches, adds to the general effect. This colonnade is 
 built around the Rock Moriah, which is the core of it all, 
 for the Mohammedans think it bears a footprint of their 
 leader, made when he took his flight from it to Heaven. 
 This building you will understand occupies only a part of 
 the area, much of it not being built over. Now we went 
 down the stairs to the excavations which bring us to the 
 level of the ground in Christ's time, and to the gate on the 
 Jerusalem side, through which undoubtedly Christ and His 
 disciples often came. Of course this is now subterranean, 
 but the old Herodian arches still remain, also Solomon's 
 stables and the holes in the rock where the Crusaders tied 
 their horses. Now we ascended again and went to the top 
 of the southeast wall which is also the old Jerusalem wall. 
 This is 225 feet above the Kedron valley, and tradition has 
 it that Ajax, the brother of Christ, was cast down to his 
 death from this point. On the south of this area is the 
 Golden Gate, now walled up. 
 
 In the afternoon we went over to the Via Dolorosa, 
 another one, for we have already seen one in the church of 
 the Holy Sepulchre, but this is the one that the Latin Chris- 
 tians venerate. It has twelve stations to represent twelve 
 stages of Christ's journey to the crucifixion, but all of them 
 are so palpably fakes that they are not interesting. But 
 we know the location of Solomon's quarries, from which 
 the stone for the temple was taken and can walk into them 
 with candles to light our way. This country seems to be all 
 white limestone underneath and everything here is built 
 from it as lumber (wood) is very high. It is soft and very 
 white in its native state but hardens and takes on a beau- 
 tiful cream color when exposed to the air. 
 
 To me the trip to Bethlehem was a disappointment, 
 rather Bethlehem itself was. The ride was a very pretty 
 one, through scenery typical of this country, rolling rocky 
 hills and little green valleys of grain and olive trees, and 
 frequent villages of limestone houses clinging to the hill- 
 
 33 
 
sides. Bethlehem is a typical modern Arab village where 
 one encounters laden camels, donkeys and women in the 
 streets, dirty children and a more than usual number of de- 
 mands for "backsheesh." Making beads of mother-of-pearl 
 from the Red Sea and begging from foreigners seems to 
 be the chief means of livelihood. The inn of the village 
 in Christ's time was next to the market place which is still 
 here, dirty and picturesque as things go in this country; 
 camels loaded with roots which their masters sell for wood, 
 donkeys and donkey boys, yelling men and gesticulating 
 veiled women. Here also was the milk market. They 
 take something that looks to me like the large intestines of 
 a large animal and put in some goat's milk, then tie a knot 
 in the bag to hold it in. With these slimy bags on the 
 ground before them the women sit around in the dirt wait- 
 ing for customers. They would wait a long time if 
 Americans were their customers. The women in Bethle- 
 hem have a distinctive headdress and their husbands are 
 saved the necessity of buying spring and fall bonnets in 
 the latest style. It is a sort of a spangled peach basket cov- 
 ered over with a white cloth which hangs half way down 
 their backs. 
 
 First we go to a high place, as usual, to get a general 
 view of the land and here we see nestling in the barren 
 hills a beautiful field which is very probably the field of 
 Boaz, "where Ruth gleaned a husband." It was also quite 
 probable in the vicinity where the shepherds heard the 
 Angels' song when Christ was born. To the right is an 
 enormous mound, like a sort of huge pyramid in which 
 Herod the Great was buried. On the east were the beau- 
 tiful Moab mountains towards which Ruth must have 
 looked sometimes and longed for home. Now we go to the 
 church of the Nativity. Somehow this did not impress me 
 as did the other memorial places of Christ, although it 
 very probably covers the grotto where He was born. But 
 men and their petty strifes and jealousies, and the fact 
 that Turkish soldiers stand about even in the cave where 
 the Holy Babe was born, spoils the effect. This church is 
 divided up between Greeks, Latins and Armenians, the 
 latter having only a very small portion. 
 
 34 
 
It was a relief to find in the afternoon a place that men 
 had not spoiled. The two spots where we know with cer- 
 tainty He sorrowed in those last sad days, have been beau- 
 tifully preserved to us, Mount of Olives and Gethsemane. 
 In the afternoon of a clear spring day, we could overlook, 
 from Olivet, practically all the land of Christ's earthly life, 
 the hills of Bethlehem, of Galilee, the Mountains of Moab, 
 of Gilead, and Judea, the river Jordan, the Dead Sea, and 
 near at hand across the narrow Kedron Valley, the old gray 
 walls of Jerusalem and the glittering round tower of the 
 Mosque of Omar. The Holy City is spread out like a relief 
 map before us. It was from this eminence that He cries 
 out "Oh, Jerusalem, how oft would I have gathered thee 
 as a hen gathereth her chickens, but ye would not." Now 
 we start downward on a steep, rocky path, winding down 
 the Jerusalem side of the Mount. Over the distant hills, 
 the sun is flinging its long farewell rays, up the rocky sides 
 of the Mount, bare and gloomy now that it is denuded of its 
 olive trees, climbs the darkening shadow of the towering 
 walls of the Holy City, covering with a dark mantle the 
 "Tomb of Absalom," and the myriad stones of the Hebrew 
 cemetery in the valley. Around a sharp corner we come 
 suddenly upon some lepers huddled against the wall ; 
 two burning eyes peering from the bundles of rags, two 
 ofttimes fingerless hands held out in a pitiful appeal for 
 backsheesh. Soon we are admitted through a little door 
 into the Garden of Gethsemane. Here are plots of wall- 
 flowers, stock, anemones, rosemary, all the old-fashioned 
 flowers that bring back the fragrance of grandmother's 
 garden, growing in orderly profusion around the eight ven- 
 erable olive trees that they claim were started from cut- 
 tings of the ones that stood here in the time of Christ. This 
 sacred spot was given years ago into the care of the Fran- 
 ciscan monks, and with rare good taste have they fulfilled 
 their trust. Here is no gaudy temple or obtrusive monu- 
 ment, but here in the place of our Lord's greatest agony, 
 He is kept in loving remembrance by the familiar flowers, 
 the holy quiet and the sweet orderliness which He loved. 
 Fitting perfectly into the general peacefulness is the little 
 brown-clad monk, who admits us and says courteously, 
 
 35 
 
"The ladies may pick flowers if they wish." The quiet of 
 evening was settling down on the little garden, the thick 
 green walls shut out the sight and sounds of the sinful, 
 sorrowful city so close at hand, the tall cypresses pointed 
 like long fingers heavenward. By common consent we all 
 drew apart to meditate, for here we felt that we had found 
 the soul of the Holy Land. Henry Van Dyke's "Out of 
 Doors in the Holy Land" is the best book I have so far 
 read on this country and what he says of this spot is beau- 
 tiful. I will quote it as nearly as I can remember. Nothing 
 in our Bible that has been made new to us in the light of 
 this journey has been so sweetly and so tenderly brought 
 home to our minds as the story of Gethsemane. "Here the 
 human love of life in Christ struggled with the divine pur- 
 pose of sacrifice; here for the first time the cup seemed 
 too bitter and He cried out, 'Father, if it be Thy will, let 
 this cup pass from Me.' Here He learned the frailty of hu- 
 man friendship, the indifference and coldness of those very 
 hearts for whom He had suffered most, who could not 
 watch with Him for one hour. Jesus met the spirit of 
 despair in the Garden and when that meeting was over 
 the cross had no terrors for Him, for He had already en- 
 dured them, Death had no fears, for He had already con- 
 quered them. How calm and gentle was the voice with 
 which He called His disciples; how firm the step with 
 which He went to meet Judas. The fear of Death was be- 
 hind him in the shadows of the olive trees, the peace of 
 Heaven was above Him in the silent stars." 
 
 The rest of the crowd went to see the tomb of Mariedna 
 and several other interesting things which I did not get 
 to see, so I am going to have papa write of them as well as 
 the trip to Jericho, which we took in the afternoon staying 
 over the next day and making an early morning start back 
 to Jerusalem. This is a trip very much dreaded, especially 
 by those who are tender of horses, so Mama decided that 
 she had better not try it. It is a fairly good road leading 
 over a rocky, hilly country, but need not be hard on horses 
 that have been properly fed and cared for, but the natives 
 here seem to have no idea of the care of horses and the 
 poor things are a pitiful looking lot. There is now a So- 
 
 36 
 
ciety for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals doing good 
 work in Jerusalem and there is every reason to hope that 
 this condition of the donkeys and horses may shortly be 
 remedied. The Dunning Company are as careful as cir- 
 cumstances will allow and do not load their carriages as 
 heavily as most of the other touring companies do; we 
 had three horses to each carriage and only two passengers 
 while we saw many vehicles on this road in which were 
 four passengers and only two horses. Several miles out 
 from Jerusalem we passed through Bethany, the home 
 of Mary and Martha, now a little, squalid village in which 
 from appearances there are no "careful Marthas" today. 
 This country is practically uninhabited and save for a few 
 Bedouin tents we see no sign of human habitation, until we 
 reach the Good Samaritan Inn, from which we begin to 
 descend into the Jordan valley, where ancient and modern 
 Jericho now are. Two distinct "Tell" mark the site 
 of ancient and mediaeval Jericho, and a huddle of stone huts 
 farther out in the valley were the present town. In the 
 evening we climbed to the top of the Mount of Tempta- 
 tion from which we had a comprehensive view of the whole 
 country of the Jordan and the Dead Sea. Mr. Bailey wrote 
 such an excellent description of this view that we persuaded 
 him to let us have it and insert it here, also we are glad 
 to have the chance to show you what a capable leader 
 we had ; we have felt that we were very fortunte in having 
 with us a man of such broad knowledge and abilities. 
 
 "I have just come down from a mountain back of 
 Jericho. It is .the last of the hills of Judea before they sud- 
 denly drop into the Jordan Valley, and it is said to be the 
 place where Christ was tempted. It certainly is grim 
 enough to be the spot. In fact they point out a cave high 
 upon the cliff where He fasted forty days. The Greek 
 monks have plastered a monastery like a barn swallows' 
 nest right against the face of the precipice and are using 
 this cave as their dining room. I presume the devil still 
 comes to tempt some of them, for the monastery is a prison 
 for bad monks. But I went up there, not to meet the devil, 
 nor to see the ill-kempt monks with their long dresses, their 
 rimless stove-pipe hats, and their hair tied up in a knot; 
 
 37 
 
but I went to get one of the finest views in Palestine. I 
 wish I could make you see it late in the afternoon. We 
 toiled up the zigzag path cut in the perpendicular face of 
 the cliff and stood at last on one of the balconies that over- 
 hang the dizzy height. Down below us the swallows and 
 hawks were wheeling, and the valley bottom was hundreds 
 of feet lower still, so that a big stone which the monks threw 
 down burst when it hit the bottom with a noise like a 
 gun, while the echoes rolled and rattled among the preci- 
 pices. 
 
 "Take a look with me. 
 
 "Almost a thousand feet below us do you see that little 
 hill like a city dump-heap? That is old Jericho the very 
 city whose walls fell down as Joshua and his trumpeting 
 army marched around it. The houses had not seen the light 
 oi day for two thousand years, but now they stand uncov- 
 ered there, what is left of them, and the strong wall that 
 shut them in. Beyond the mound the green fields begin, 
 fields of grain in full blade, groves of orange and banana, 
 vineyards and orchards, in the midst of which the houses 
 of modern Jericho rise, some whitewashed and red roofed, 
 some mud colored. Beyond Jericho on both sides the eye 
 wanders over the long Jordan Valley. It is a vast pasture 
 land, in places covered with scanty green and in places 
 chalky white where the marl breaks through. Look closely 
 over this variegated surface and you can see hundreds of 
 moving black dots black goats and cows and men; and 
 here and there low black tents where the Bedouins live, 
 the tribes that come over from the east of Jordan to find 
 better pasture here today and gone tomorrow. I can 
 count sixty-five of them scattered over the broad plain and 
 a glass would bring out many more. 
 
 "This land of many colors slopes gently down and down 
 to where between its steep chalky banks the Jordan rushes, 
 muddy and swift, hidden from sight in a jungle of bushes 
 and trees, till it emerges to the south in the waters of the 
 Dead Sea. And when your eye has leaped the chasm of the 
 Jordan it runs up another long slope to the hills and moun- 
 tains of Moab, to Mt. Nebo that hangs over the Salt Sea, 
 the Nebo where Moses lies buried; and to Mt. Gilead, the 
 
 38 
 
great table-land across which Abraham and Jacob came 
 from the East to the promised land. You can see forty 
 miles in two directions. 
 
 "How the centuries of history sweep down this valley 
 before you ! 
 
 "There come Lot with all his tribe down from the hills 
 of Bethel behind you, and pitches his tent toward Sodom. 
 There come the five kings of the plain and fight against 
 Chedorlarum and his kings from Babylon. In the slime 
 pits by the Dead Sea they join, and the victorious troops 
 whirl by us on the way north, laden with spoil. Abraham 
 and his servants on desert horses dash in pursuit and pres- 
 ently return with Lot and the recaptured goods. Now, the 
 three angels come down from Hebron to Sodom and the 
 smoke of the burning city ascends like the smoke of a 
 furnace. 
 
 "Now, the heathen tribes come down from the wall of 
 Moab across Jordan, and little Jericho at our feet goes down 
 in blood and fire. David's armies sally out from the defiles, 
 cross the broad plain and scale Gilead's walls to Rabboth 
 Ammon, where valiant Uriah meets his doom. And there 
 goes David himself, with his little band of servants fleeing 
 before Absalom. 
 
 "Now the artisans of Hiram and Solomon swarm down, 
 and in the clayey Jordan soil cast the big pillars and the 
 lavers of bronze for the temple. 
 
 "And what shall we say of Elijah and Elisha, Omri, 
 and Hezekiah, Shisbat and Sennacherib and Nebuchad- 
 nezzer, Antichus and the Maccabees, of Pompey and 
 Herod the Great, Saladin and Richard, the Lion-hearted, 
 Bedouin Sheik and Crusader each pursuing his own 
 dream of empire, building or laying waste, blessing or curs- 
 ing. But, most gracious of all, there comes John, the fore- 
 runner, to herald the Lamb of God ; and there walks Christ 
 in the midst of His disciples, while all the ways are thronged 
 to meet him, and Zaccheus begins a better life, and the blind 
 men rejoice in their sight restored. 
 
 "A wonderful panorama, is it not? 
 
 "The sun is getting low. The great clouds that have 
 sailed like snow drifts above us are blushing red; from 
 
 39 
 
their purple skirts long shadows fling themselves across 
 the valley below. Moab burns like an opal, which streaks 
 every mountain with purple. The air grows cool. The rosy 
 slopes of Gilead fade to violet and become inky blue as a 
 mighty thunder cloud sweeps over them. The shadow 
 of our mountain creeps out over the valley. The black dots 
 begin to huddle together and to move nearer to their tents 
 of hair. From their bells faint tinklings reach us. A far- 
 off shepherd calls. From the valley ovens rise thin blue 
 trails of smoke. Far-off dogs are barking as their mas- 
 ters return from the fields. The daylight is gone. Only 
 the giant crest of the thunder cloud is blood red as it 
 crushes out Gilead and creeps on to Arabia. The monas- 
 tery bell calls the monks to prayer. There is a camp fire 
 burning beyond Jordan where some caravan has halted. 
 Let us go down to Jericho." 
 
 The next day we drove to Jordan and the Dead Sea, 
 passing on the way the tree that marks the site of Gil- 
 gal (Josh 5, 9). We took a boat ride on the Jordan, which 
 is a turbid muddy stream, rowing to the ford where the 
 Children of Israel crossed and standing for a time on the 
 land of Moab. Then we went on to the Dead Sea. It is 
 47 miles long and ten wide, 1292 feet deep and it is said 
 that six and one-half million tons of fresh water falls into 
 the sea daily and is evaporated so that the level of the sea 
 varies not more than thirteen to twenty feet with the sea- 
 son. The water is very blue, with a brown streak reaching 
 out into it where the Jordan water enters. Papa compared 
 this struggle of the pure to overcome the impure water 
 with our struggle with sin, in which we were just as sure 
 to lose without Christ's help, as this water is to be swal- 
 lowed up in the briny Dead Sea. Here is a list of Bible 
 references which deal with this valley: 
 
 Deut. 34, 5 Moses died. 
 
 Josh. 3, 14 Israel passed over. 
 
 2 Kings 5, 14 Naaman healed; 6, 6 Iron swims. 
 
 Matthew 3, 13 Christ baptized. 
 
 Joshua 4, 19 Israel encamped ; 5, 9 Why called Gilgal. 
 
 i Samuel n, 15 Saul made king. 
 
 Num. 22, I Israel Encamped. 
 
 40 
 

Deut. 34, 3 City of Palm Trees. 
 
 Josh. 2, i Spies go to Jericho ; 6, 20 Walls fall. 
 
 2 Sam. 10, 15 Tarry. 
 
 2 Kings 2 Elisha and Elijah. 
 
 Math. 20, 34 The blind men healed. 
 
 Luke 19, 21 Zachaeus. 
 
 2 Kings 2, 21 Waters healed. 
 
 Gen. 19, 24 Sodom and Gomorroh. 
 
 Deut. 31 ,17 Sea of the plains. 
 
 i Kings 17, 4 Elijah fed by the ravens. 
 
 Our marching orders last night read : "Be ready to start 
 north at two o'clock. All baggage out by noon." Shukrey, 
 our dragoman, had telegraphed to Haifa for carriages for 
 us a week ago, and they were in waiting; our trunks hav- 
 ing been sent to Beirut via Joppa, only our hand baggage 
 goes in the carriage with us. Each three-seated wagon 
 takes three people and the driver, they are gotten from 
 Haifa because the horses there are so much better than 
 those of Jerusalem. The three horses are hitched abreast, 
 and with cracking of whip and chattering of Arabs, we leave 
 the Holy City, though we catch glimpses of it for fifteen 
 miles. We drove that night to Ramallah, seeing on the way 
 Beireh and Bethel, also Gibeah of Saul, and Noph, where 
 Deborah prophesyed. At Beireh were the ruins of an old 
 crusaders' church, many of which dot this land. This 
 is a Moslem village, but they have seen the difference be- 
 tween their town and the adjacent village of Ramallah, 
 and so have petitioned the mission to start a day school 
 among them, and it will be done as soon as sufficient 
 funds can be raised. The others of our party must stay at 
 the hotel, a good one owned by Shukrey Hishmesh, our 
 guide, but we had the great pleasure of staying with Prof, 
 and Mrs. Rosenberger at the Friend's mission here. Started 
 here forty years ago under adverse circumstances, it has 
 come to be a beacon light, and is visited by tourists of all 
 denominations and countries to see what can be done with 
 these people. I know of no better example than our Shuk- 
 rey. His father was educated and converted at Mt. Leb- 
 anon mission, further north, maintained by the English 
 Friends, and all of his children are now in Christian homes 
 
 41 
 
of their own. I wish I could show you the difference be- 
 tween Shukrey's home and the surrounding ones. The chil- 
 dren of Egypt and of Palestine are so shamefully neglected 
 and dirty and know how to do nothing but ask for "back- 
 sheesh." They crawl into dirty holes with no air or light, 
 and lie on the bare stone floor, or a heap of rags, to sleep. 
 The home in which Shukrey's five children were being 
 brought up was very different. He owns a substantial 
 stone house, with large windows, a nice parlor and even a 
 piano. I never saw a prettier child than his three-year old 
 girl, and she was honestly the first native baby I have 
 ever seen in Palestine that I wanted to take up. She was 
 dressed in a plain gingham dress and her hair nicely combed 
 and absolutely clean. We went to Shukrey's house to tea 
 one afternoon and were served with tea and home-made 
 American cake; his seven-year-old boy helped serve us and 
 did it as nicely as any American boy could. His three girls 
 are at school in Ramallah where we saw them and they are 
 growing up to be nice, clean, Christian housekeepers and 
 wives and mothers. Thirty years ago when Eli and Sybil 
 Jones came here to start this school Shukrey's father was 
 their dragoman, and helped them in their negotiations for 
 the ground. Now they have fifty girls and thirty boys in 
 the mission school, and also maintain a day school, church 
 and Sunday school, which has 215 scholars. All the teach- 
 ers but one are natives ; even the matron is a native Syrian, 
 and has been in the school for twenty-two years, well- 
 beloved by all, a splendid, capable, unselfish woman. 
 
 In the morning we took up our ride again, going that 
 day thirty-two miles to Nablus, which was the ancient city 
 of Shechem. On the way we pass an ancient watch-tower 
 which marks Bethel, where Jacob had his vision, and which 
 was the head of the Northern Kingdom. This was the only 
 site mentioned in the Bible that we saw until we came to 
 Jacob's well, near Shechem. But the ride was a beautiful 
 one and increased our impression that Palestine was really 
 a goodly land. Much of this part is covered with fine old 
 olive trees, and wheat, grapes, etc., grow here in abundance. 
 A little Yankee ingenuity could irrigate this whole country 
 and make it "blossom as the rose," as springs and wells are 
 
 42 
 
plentiful. The people work hard and I could see no reason 
 for their being so poor, except for the "heel of itheir 
 oppressor," Turkey. 
 
 Jacob's well is, like many other places, a disappoint- 
 ment, for it is covered with a cheap little Jewish church, 
 and you pay a priest a franc to lower a candle through a 
 hole in the floor down to the water in the well so that you 
 may see it. This is the same well where Jesus sat and 
 talked to the Samaritan woman, and how much more fitting 
 it would be to have only a simple stone curbing here. 
 Some fine stones are here, the remains of a Crusaders' 
 church, and the Jews are building a pretentious church 
 with these remnants. A mile further we came to Nablus, 
 passing on the way the place where Elijah called the Samar- 
 itans together and read the blessings from Mt. Gerizim, 
 while Elisha read the cursings from Mt. Ebal. I should 
 judge they were half a mile apart, yet Mr. Bailey has tried it 
 and says it is very easy for people in the valley to hear voices 
 from either point. After the captivity, Ephriam possessed 
 this land and intermarried with the original inhabitants, 
 forming a sect known as the Samaritans, who have lived here 
 ever since and have not allowed intermarriage with other 
 tribes. For a time they were very strong and maintained 
 the Southern Kingdom of Israel, with their seat at Shechem. 
 But Omri, one of their great rulers, saw that being in a val- 
 ley, the place would be hard to defend so he moved the town 
 to Samaria, six miles further north. This is now only the 
 site of interesting ruins while the Samaritans occupy the 
 original town of Shechem. Girl babies are scarce among them 
 and as a people they are rapidly dying out, for the young men 
 cannot find Samaritan wives. Now they number but 169, 
 and have a high priest who claims to be a lineal descendant 
 of the tribe of Levi. A little girl of twelve was to be mar- 
 ried shortly to a man in the forties, who. had been waiting 
 a long time for a girl to arrive at marriageable age. They 
 are a nice looking lot of people, whiter, cleaner and more 
 respectable than their neighbors. On the Friday before 
 Easter they still go up on Mt. Gerizim and celebrate the 
 Passover. 
 
 From Shechem we took an excursion the next day to 
 
the ruins of Samaria. The 28th chapter of Isaiah is the 
 prophet's condemnation of it, and it was just as he described 
 it "the crown of a fat valley." It stands on the crown of 
 a lone hill in the midst of one of the most beautiful of val- 
 leys, irrigated by countless gushing springs, and covered 
 with olive groves and wheat fields. Before the days of 
 long-range guns its position must have been well nigh im- 
 pregnable except by siege, and it was in that way it was 
 captured by the Assyrians after they had besieged it for 
 three years. Ahab built a palace there on the ruins of 
 Omri's, which Herod in his turn covered with one to the 
 divine Augusta. In the last three years all this has been 
 excavated and we saw the original Omri walls, the better 
 masonry of Ahab, and the two large towers before which 
 the Assyrians were encamped when they heard the mighty 
 army of the Lord in the heavens and fled in terror. Above 
 this was the Herodian stones showing that a magnificent 
 building must have crowned this highest point in the val- 
 ley. To reach this we traversed on our donkeys the same 
 road which the Romans did, between two rows of columns, 
 the tops of which are still standing. A short way from 
 this is the ruin of Herod's basilica, or judgment hall, the 
 immense pillars still standing on the mosaic floor, also 
 showing plainly the circular seats of the judges. Here 
 also are the remains of the ancient stadium. 
 
 Leaving Nablus the next morning we drove thirty- 
 five miles, a hard drive across the plains of Sharon to Zam- 
 marin, a Jewish colony established by Baron Rothschild. 
 Here we spent the night in a miserable inn and started early 
 the next morning for Haifa. This country is not closely 
 connected with Christ and we passed quickly through it. 
 It was the stronghold of the Crusaders and at Ahlit we saw 
 the remains of their fortress which was the last stand they 
 made. Haifa was the home of Elijah for three years and a 
 monastery is built over the cave where he is supposed to 
 have lived, while another cave having the same claim to 
 fame, has been turned into a mosque by the Mohammedans, 
 for Elijah was also one of their prophets. Both these are 
 on the seaward slope of Mt. Carmel which is visible for a 
 great distance. At the time of Elijah the largest city of 
 
 44 
 
this neighborhood was across the bay at Akka, so that 
 Elijah was able to live here in considerable retirement. 
 Carmel is extolled very beautifully in Isaiah 35, 2, and songs 
 of Solomon 7-5. We have begun now to see Mt. Hermon, 
 frequently mentioned in the Bible and reminding us Cali- 
 fornians of Mt. Shasta, because it has the same trick of 
 showing its snow-covered head at unexpected turns. Here, 
 too, we see for the first time the mountains of Lebanon. 
 We have so long been accustomed to the absence of any- 
 thing but fruit trees, that it was refreshing to see the oaks 
 on the plains of Acre, trees very much like our California 
 live oaks, but scrubbier. After spending Sunday at Haifa 
 we take up our march to Nazareth, having the long slope 
 of Carmel in view all the time. 
 
 As we drew near to Nazareth our leader took us to a 
 hillside from which we had a very comprehensive view of 
 the country, and pointed out to us many places of interest, 
 saying that probably Joseph frequently brought the boy 
 Jesus here to teach him the history of his people from this 
 great text book spread out before him. The view is splen- 
 did in itself, here the fertile plains of Esdraelon were spread 
 out, backed by the blue mountains of Gilead, but it is in- 
 teresting also because so much of historical interest is vis- 
 ible from here, and especially the sites of many of the Old 
 Testament stories. On the extreme western horizon are 
 the long flat lines of Mt. Carmel, where Elijah had his test 
 with the prophets of Baal, calling down fire from heaven, 
 which consumed his sacrifice, and lower down is the Brook 
 Kishon where he slew the prophets of Baal. Following 
 along the line of the mountains we see the Megiddo Pass, 
 through which the old road runs which led from Lebanon 
 to Jerusalem, and where the good King Josiah was killed 
 in battle with Pharaoh Nechcoh of Egypt (2 Kings 23, 29). 
 Moving on a little farther east we come to Mount Tabor, 
 to the foot of which Sisera and the Caanites met defeat at 
 the hands of Deborah, the prophetess and Joan of Arc 
 of Israel, and Barak. Near by is Jezreel, the residence of 
 Ahab. Jezebel and Naboth (Kings 21). This story in- 
 volved a principle then new to the Israelitish theology, i. e., 
 that God is a God of the common people, and will defend 
 
 45 
 
them against wicked kings. Still farther east is the site 
 of Gideon's well where he selected his "band" by their 
 manner of drinking (Judges 7). This site is on Mt. Gil- 
 boa, where Saul met defeat, the dramatic account of which 
 we read in Sam. 28, and just beyond is Endor where Saul 
 consulted the witch. On the other side of Jordan was a 
 Greek colony called Decapolis, degenerate in all the vices 
 of a decadent wealth and civilization. From this a Roman 
 road led across the plains to Acre. On the same plains 
 Napoleon's Marshal Kleber won his first victory, and here 
 was the greatest battlefield of the Crusaders. 
 
 Resuming our ride we soon round a sharp turn and 
 come upon Nazareth, nestling in the hills, white and clean 
 and pretty at a distance, but like most of these Oriental 
 cities, bringing disenchantment on nearer approach. It 
 is the same old story of narrow, filthy streets, barking dogs, 
 braying donkeys, babbling men and begging children. One 
 dark-eyed girl came to us and said: "Good evening, you 
 American lady ; you my sister." Her language would never 
 "have been took" for a native American's, but she thought 
 it would. She followed us around all the time we were here, 
 trying to sell us hand-made lace. The missions in Pales- 
 tine teach the girls to make it, and some of it is pretty and 
 very substantial. 
 
 At Nazareth, as everywhere in Palestine, we found 
 many traditional sites of the life of Christ and almost all of 
 them covered with cheap, tawdry churches, gaudily deco- 
 rated and filled with terrifying pictures of the Holy Family. 
 Over the cave pointed out as the home of Joseph and Mary, 
 a fine church is being built on the foundations of an old Cru- 
 sader church. In this is the only real good picture we saw in 
 any of these churches, of the Holy Family, and painted by 
 an unknown French artist. In the center of the town is the 
 Virgin's Fountain, and being the only one here, it is the 
 one to which Mary must have come, bearing her water-pot 
 and probably bringing the infant Jesus just as these wo- 
 men do today. We saw one fill her water-jar, balance it on 
 her head, then reaching down without stooping, she drew 
 a three-year-old child to her shoulder, where he promptly 
 got a good hold on her head and rode along without the 
 necessity of his mother holding him. 
 
 46 
 
After a half-day and a night in Nazareth we went on 
 to Galilee. The word Galilee means "a ring or circle" and 
 this province probably takes its name from the fact that 
 it is on the outer circle, or frontier of Palestine. It is 
 bounded by the Jordan, and by the great plains of Esdraelon, 
 Marmitine and Latomic and is the only volcanic part of 
 Palestine, the great lava rocks of which we see so many 
 probably coming from the Horns of Hattin, which we 
 climbed; an extinct volcano and by some believed to have 
 been the location of the Sermon on the Mount. There are 
 also more springs in this part and they, with the heavy 
 dew, keep the vegetation always green. At Bethsaida, on 
 the northern shore of the lake, there are seven large springs 
 coming up within fifteen feet of each other. The population 
 today is only 25,000, while in the time of Christ four or 
 five hundred thousand people lived in nine towns sur- 
 rounding the lake. The Galileans were a sturdy tribe of 
 Jews who very strictly maintained their identity among the 
 Romans and Greeks that clustered around these parts. 
 The town of Capernaum was situated at a convergence of 
 the roads that led from Lebanon on the north to Egypt, 
 and the road from Decapolis to the seaport at Acre. So 
 Christ had a good opportunity to observe the habits and 
 customs of people far removed from His own, and we can 
 see this influence in many of His figures of speech. The 
 sterling qualities and fighting independence developed by 
 their efforts to keep themselves separate from the too luxur- 
 ious foreigners, made the Galileans just the kind of men 
 Christ needed for His disciples, and He chose all of them 
 save Judas from this hardy, impetuous people. One ap- 
 preciates what they must have been when we have seen 
 the lithe, tireless men who drive their great awkward boats 
 through these waters. Four men rowed a boat containing 
 thirteen people for five hours almost continuously and sang 
 and shouted without the least sign of fatigue. We went 
 first to see the site of Magdala and Capernaum. No won- 
 der Christ "loved to be" here. We rowed on the sea and 
 lived on its shores, and saw it at its best with just enough 
 of the sudden breezes ruffling it at night to give us an idea 
 of the sudden squalls that come upon it now as in the time 
 
 47 
 
of Christ. Surrounded by green, rugged hills, with snow- 
 capped Mt. Hermon in the distance, thirteen miles long 
 and six wide, blue Galilee lies like a great blue turquoise 
 in its green setting. We stayed at Tiberias, now the only 
 town on the lake, a small squalid village of 40,000 inhab- 
 itants, the black towers of the old walls still showing as 
 we approached the town. All that is left of Capernaum 
 is the ruins of a great cathedral or synagogue, which seems 
 to clinch the argument of the archaeologists that this is 
 really the site of the home of Peter, James, and John. There 
 is only a motley collection of broken pillars, capitols and 
 block, but they show that a building was here of the finest 
 Roman type, such as the one mentioned in the Bible as 
 the "synagogue" in which Christ taught. This has been 
 excavated by the Palestine Excavation Society, and they 
 have left it in charge of a cranky old priest who takes your 
 camera away from you if you try to take pictures. There 
 is not a great deal historical to tell about Galilee, but it is 
 a wonderful experience to be here and to feel the influence 
 of the blue Genesaret, and to know that here was the 
 favorite place of Christ in His mature life. We have no 
 record of His being in Jerusalem but seven times; two of 
 these in boyhood and the last time when He went to stand 
 trial, but here in Galilee He lived and worked and "loved 
 to be." We noticed here, too, several very beautiful women 
 who might well have served for models for some of the 
 famous Madonnas. So on the whole we were very sorry 
 to leave Tiberias, especially when we remembered that we 
 had spent our last night in the Holy Land. The longing 
 will always be with us to come back again. Papa brought 
 his fishpole and some flies all the way from America that he 
 might fish in this lake, but he "toiled all day and took noth- 
 ing," as other more experienced men have done. Honestly 
 I sat on the shore and prayed that by some miraculous in- 
 terposition of Providence, a fish might get on his hook, but 
 none came and he was very much disappointed. 
 
 On Thursday morning we took a boat at seven o'clock 
 to ride nine miles to the railroad station at Yarmak on 
 the Southern end of the lake. You should have seen our 
 conveyance. If there is any kind of locomotion we have not 
 
 48 
 
tried, we have not discovered it yet. Sand-carts, camels, 
 donkeys, Cunarders, Russian freight boats, sail boats, row 
 boats, a pole-ferry on the Nile, and a steam launch on 
 Galilee! (We have not as yet ridden a rail but the backs 
 of some of the donkeys were a good equivalent). We did 
 not ride in the steam launch ; it simply pulled a line of row 
 boats, in number according as the number of passengers. 
 Our "train" had five boats, with a picturesque Syrian in 
 the stern of each to hold the rope connecting the next boat. 
 It was a delightful ride in the early morning and we shall 
 never forget it. Neither shall we soon forget the wait for 
 the train at Yarmak. These Oriental trains seem to run at 
 their own sweet pleasure, although they publish an elab- 
 orate schedule. Our train was due at nine o'clock but 
 Shukrey was afraid it might come early so we were there 
 at eight-thirty. At 11:25, after waiting in a shed all that 
 time, surrounded by mangy dogs and fleas, we were glad to 
 see a chain of smoke coming over the plain, indicating the 
 road over which our train was leisurely wending its way. 
 That is the other side of traveling in Palestine. But the 
 ride was beautiful up the gorge of the Yarmak, resembling 
 on a small scale the Grand Canyon of the Colorado. We 
 crept up an elevation of 2800 feet in three hours, but it was 
 9:25 P. M. before we found ourselves in the Victoria Hotel 
 of Damascus, the largest town in Syria, having 300,000 
 population. It is one of the oldest, if not the oldest, Orien- 
 tal city, and its street life is typical, so let us take a walk 
 and see something of the life of these people. We turn 
 the corner from our hotel and are in the main street, pos- 
 sibly twenty-five feet wide, including sidewalks, which 
 are simply two feet of cobblestones raised slightly above 
 the street and no one pays much attention to them. In 
 this narrow street are double tracks for electric cars, so 
 we must watch closely and dodge quickly, or some of this 
 numerous mixture of laden camels, donkeys, or men will 
 push us under the wheels of the "modern juggernaut." 
 Here comes a horse staggering along under the weight of 
 six tree trunks, three on each side, each probably twelve 
 feet long and a foot thick. Step aside quickly or you will 
 be flattened against the wall by this train of six lordly cam- 
 
 49 
 
els, bearing on either side an enormous bag of grain which 
 has been trodden by the oxen but not yet separated ; dodge 
 again, this time a magnificent team of black Arabian horses. 
 Look out! Here is a train of donkeys laden with wool 
 which protrudes on each side at least three feet, so that 
 it takes six feet for him to pass in, not to mention the poor 
 little donk. Interspersed with all this you must remember 
 is a motley crowd of people who must have space as well 
 as you. Suppose we look at the costume of this lordly 
 Bedouin, swinging along in dignified indifference. His 
 chief garment is a coarse woolen sack with holes cut 
 through the top, much like a Chinaman's blouse but much 
 looser fitting, fuller, longer, and with sleeves not so pro- 
 nounced. Some of them aspire to socks, but more of them 
 wear nothing on their feet but a pair of ill-fitting slippers, 
 the heels mashed in for convenience. His headdress is the 
 most distinguishing thing about him, being a sort of gaudy 
 table-scarf held in place by two coils of coarse black yarn 
 tied together in the back, and a fringe hanging down the 
 back. A Turkish soldier dressed in rough brown English 
 clothes brushes against you, and you bump into a Syrian 
 woman who we can well imagine looks from behind her 
 heavy veil with contempt on us hare-faced American wo- 
 men. They say it requires nineteen yards of goods to make 
 their full dress but it certainly would not require much 
 of a dressmaker. We notice that these Syrian women go 
 with their faces entirely covered, while in Egypt the wo- 
 men went half veiled, their beautiful brown eyes peering 
 out above their veils. Here is one with a fat bare-foot baby 
 balanced on her shoulder, the baby clinging to the folds of 
 her shawl for a precarious support. Here is one of the 
 burden bearers, a bare-footed, ragged man carrying a box 
 four feet square on his shoulders by means of a rope around 
 his forehead. Here comes the garbage wagon, get out of the 
 way. What do you suppose it is? A horse with a sort of 
 Chinese-matting bag thrown across his back and a stick 
 underneath his stomach to keep the bags from bumping 
 him. Into these bags they shovel garbage until the poor 
 beast can hardly stagger. At last we have come to the 
 bazaars, for which Damascus is famous ; here we can find 
 
 50 
 
anything Oriental from a Boukara rug to an Arab saddle. 
 Brass work, Syrian embroidery, antiques, silks, are all 
 spread out in an array to catch the tourists' eye. Let the 
 Yankee who thinks he can get the best of a bargain with 
 these astute Syrians, look to his laurels, he will probably 
 come out richer in experience and poorer in pocket. Each 
 little box, not more than twelve feet in floor space, is a shop, 
 and most of them confine their stock to one line of goods. 
 In these they can store a large stock of goods, since the 
 merchant only needs room to squat on his platform while 
 the customer stands in the street, which is covered over 
 with a metal or wood roof. Here is a delicatessen ; let us 
 see what these Syrians eat. Their pastry is very rich and 
 nice but they soak it in a peculiar kind of spiced syrup and 
 put it out in great pans for sale. They have cheese pie 
 something like ours and macaroni and cocoanut twisted 
 together, spread with butter and baked. Then here is one 
 of their favorite delicacies in individual blue bowls, rice 
 soaked in sweetened sour milk. It looks very appetizing 
 dressed up with shredded cocoanut and dried orange peel. 
 Here in a great brass kettle is a stew of meat and vegetables 
 of every kind under the earth and above it. But they use 
 scarcely any potatoes in anything, whether because they 
 are scarce or because they do not like them I do not know. 
 Then they have all kinds of highly colored candy, some 
 of it very good. 
 
 Here is a chair shop which is a factory and retail sales- 
 room in one. Think what a process a chair goes through 
 in our country before it reaches the customer. Lumber 
 must be cut, sawed, planed, before it comes to the factory, 
 there it goes through a dozen different hands, and is finally 
 passed from the wholesaler to the retailer. See how simple 
 the process is here. The man buys a donkey-load of trees 
 with just the branches trimmed off. He stores them away 
 overhead and gets out his machinery. This is a sort of slid- 
 ing vise with two opposite iron pegs which hold the stick. 
 Then he loops the waxed string of the bow over the stick 
 and by pulling this back and forth turns the stock round 
 while he cuts off the bark with a chisel which he holds in 
 his naked toes ; in this same way he can make all kinds of 
 
 51 
 
fancy rings on the legs and cross-pieces of the chair. These 
 properly prepared he puts them together, and braids a reed 
 bottom into the chair, then oils or paints it and hangs it up 
 to await the customer. 
 
 A little farther on is a brass factory, which is one of 
 the few places where several persons work on the same 
 article. The brass is moulded into shape on asphalt, then 
 beaten and the figures sketched on free-hand, with ink. 
 This much is done by men, but little children from six to 
 fourteen finish them. The ordinary brass work is done 
 somewhat like our children do at home, but that inlaid with 
 silver or copper is more intricate. These materials come 
 in thin wire and they hold this against the article with one 
 hand while they hammer it in with the other, and 
 they are very adept at making it smooth and even. 
 These poor little youngsters get five and seven cents a day 
 for this work. One more industry remains to be described, 
 that of house-building. They use the unhewn trunks of 
 trees for frame work for even three-story houses with no 
 stronger uprights at the corners. Then they fill in the 
 space with mud and chopped straw and put on a thin coat 
 of plaster. They say they will last well but a half sized 
 earthquake would certainly have a picnic with them. 
 
 Leaving Damascus early in the morning by train, we 
 traveled to Baalback where are the ruins of the Temple of 
 the Sun, one of the finest structures of any time, and as 
 well preserved as any that have come down to us. The 
 valley leading up to it reminded us of the Santa Clara 
 Valley at home when the fruit trees are in full bloom in 
 the spring, for they grow every kind of deciduous fruit 
 here, and it was blossom time. From the parapet of the 
 temple the view was beyond description as we watched the 
 sun go down behind distant snow-clad mountains, dotting 
 the green hills with cloud-shadows and covering with a 
 purple mantle the blossom-carpeted valley. From quite a 
 distance we could see the two fragments of colonnades 
 that are left standing, and in their setting of fruit blossoms 
 they make a very striking picture. Nine acres of ground 
 here are covered with these magnificent remnants of marble 
 and anywhere you tread you are liable to come upon the 
 
 52 
 
finest samples of carving, gigantic lions' heads hewn out 
 of stone, magnificent friezes, and dainty carvings of grapes 
 and cupids and storks ! It is said to have taken two hun- 
 dred years to build this grand temple, and we could imagine 
 that it must have been a thing of beauty. The enormous 
 stones in the retaining wall and foundations are justly 
 famous for their size, three of them weighing seventy tons 
 each. Near by, in a quarry, we saw the "stone which the 
 builders rejected," lying hewn and already for removal but 
 for some reason left here useless through all these years. 
 
 During our ride from Baalback to Beirut we could 
 almost imagine we were in the Sierras, except for the ab- 
 sence of fir trees. The mountains up which our train 
 climbed were much the same, and instead of the fir trees we 
 saw the "cedars of Lebanon." Two hours after we left the 
 blossoming fruit trees, we were in the midst of snow, cat- 
 aracts of ice cold water dashing in the washes over which 
 we passed. Thus we climbed to a level of 4880 feet above the 
 sea, and shortly began to get glimpses of the Mediterranean, 
 to which we descended very abruptly by a rachet and pinion 
 railroad that zigzaged down the mountain to the tree-em- 
 bowered town of Beirut. 
 
 I find that this is Monday, April I7th, and that I am 
 several days behind with my diary, but I have had good 
 cause. Easter is past, and I hope never to have another like 
 this one. We are on a trim little French passenger boat, 
 the Niger, going from Beirut to Constantinople, and the 
 trip has been stormy and spent by most of us in our berths. 
 To use a slang expression, Papa is a regular Jonah, he never 
 ventures on the sea but that a storm comes up. Our con- 
 ductor says, "Oh, you will not be sick this time, it is always 
 smooth on that stretch," but immediately when we get to 
 it "a wind arises and there is a great sea." Poor Papa gets 
 the worst of it, with me a poor second, and Mama the best 
 sailor of us all. Now we are anchored in the bay of Vathy, 
 an unimportant town on the Island of Samos. Since we 
 have reached the Aegean sea and have been surrounded by 
 islands, everybody is beginning to stir around again and 
 be happy. But I have gotten ahead of our travels. Mama 
 was not well at Beirut and I stayed in with her most of the 
 
 53 
 
time, but there was not a great deal to see. One afternoon 
 we went to the Presbyterian mission and printing press, 
 and another to the Protestant college, the largest institution 
 of its kind in the Orient. It has eighteen good stone build- 
 ings, eight hundred scholars, good laboratories and a fine 
 equipment for its work, not the least important of which is 
 its president, Mr. Howard P. Bliss, a splendid man physi- 
 cally, intellectually and spiritually, and the son of the first 
 president of the college. His study, though plain, was cer- 
 tainly an inspiration, its walls lined with cases of excellent 
 books, their titles and subject matter indicating an owner 
 of broad and varied culture, and above them portraits and 
 photographs of a hundred noted men, many of them per- 
 sonally autographed, Roosevelt, McKinley, Cleveland, 
 Whittier, Beethoven, Goethe, Froebel, Macauley and so on 
 through a long list; anybody could get inspiration from 
 such surroundings as these. President Bliss is on the boat 
 with us on his way to preside at a missionary conference 
 at Constantinople, and we hope to hear him lecture. 
 
 We have now left Syria behind, and the only thing left 
 to mention is the difference we have noticed in the peoples 
 of the different places we have visited so far. The Egyptians 
 are a stolid race and seem to partake of the nature of their 
 landscape and camels quiet, patient and dignified. The 
 natives of Palestine appear physically much the same, but 
 even at Joppa we see a difference, such a babbling, gabbling 
 pandemonium of shouting, gesticulating Arabs as greets 
 your ears and you never lose it again until well out of 
 Beirut. You are sure often times that a fight is imminent, 
 but it is only a friendly conversation, soon each raises the 
 other's hand to his lips, they depart, and "silence falls like a 
 poultice on the sore of sound." Take, for example, Shuk- 
 rey, our guide, a Christian, educated Syrian, and about as 
 quiet and patient a fellow as you could find anywhere, but 
 sometimes you would be sure he was going to hit the 
 native he was talking to. At Damascus the train was 
 crowded and though Shukrey had a first-class ticket, the 
 conductor refused to let him occupy the one seat left in our 
 compartment. Shukrey pushed him aside and sat down in 
 the seat, evidently believing in the adage that possession 
 
 54 
 
is nine points in law. All the time he was keeping up a 
 continual stream of Arabic, and the conductor and several 
 other officials gesticulating wildly and trying to out-yell 
 Shukrey, who from his point of vantage kept up the ear- 
 splitting argument. Suddenly the whole avalanche of talk 
 stopped, the train started and quiet reigned until the next 
 station, where it began again. But this time it was differ- 
 ent. Shukrey found that a tourist gentleman and his wife 
 had to ride in the second-class because the first-class was 
 filled, and he gladly gave up his seat to the lady without 
 further discussion, and went with his recent antagonist, 
 the conductor, to find a seat for the gentleman. But the 
 Galileans seemed to be somewhat different, not so noisy or 
 vociferous, the men were graceful and lithe, and many of 
 the women had Madonna faces, in fact they seemed a 
 cleaner, more wholesome race. 
 
 After leaving Vathy we sailed in the night to Smyrna, 
 from whence we went by rail to Ephesus. Just before leav- 
 ing the boat we were given a splendid lecture by Prof. 
 Soares of the Chicago University, who is the head of the 
 Dunning camping party. Ephesus was the center of Paul's 
 third missionary campaign, at that time a great city, and 
 the center of Greek culture and Roman art, also important 
 commercially. Here the commerce of the East and West 
 met, all the vices, aspirations, etc., of a great meeting-place 
 of the nations seethed here. Paul went first to the syna- 
 gogue of the Jews, for the synagogue was always open to 
 him ; services were not catalogued so when Paul arrived, by 
 his knowledge and adroitness, he could always gain an 
 audience, and his message of the new way of life was 
 listened to. But when he began to preach that the Gentiles 
 were also included that there was "neither Jew nor Gen- 
 tile," he was not so well received by the Jews, for their 
 leader had crucified the Christ he upheld, and also because 
 he broke down the barrier between Jews and the Gentiles. 
 So the synagogue was closed to him and he began to speak 
 in a hired hall. He also undertook to evangelize the prov- 
 inces by means of his trained young men, whom he put over 
 the seven churches of Revelation. Other churches he kept 
 up to the mark by letters, as the Corinthians, going to the 
 
 55 
 
very heart of his concepts of the new religion. So his years 
 were very busy for (i) he made his own living by weaving 
 goat hair cloth for tents, (2) he was pastor of a great city 
 church, (3) he was also advisory pastor of the provincial 
 churches, (4) he was secretary to all these. All this he 
 did with a very feeble body. At this time nervous diseases 
 were supposed to be due to demons. Jesus Christ's religion 
 was a good cure for this and Paul's ability to do so much 
 with his nerve-racked body proved this, "Paul we know and 
 Christ we know," so he began to have a good deal of in- 
 fluence among the Ephesians. But Tie interfered ^vith their 
 business, for the making of images to Diana was one of the 
 chief commerces of Ephesus, so the business men rose up 
 against him. Aristarchus and Gaius, Paul's lieutenants, 
 were captured and taken to the theatre whose ruins we still 
 see. There was almost a riot, but the city clerk quieted it, 
 and had the men taken to the Roman courts. This was the 
 beginning of opposition. At this time he wrote the letter 
 in the third chapter of 2 Corinthians, to the Corinthians, 
 the best and strongest of all. But he received no answer 
 and dispatched Titus, but finally went himself to Macedonia, 
 and here he received his answer to come to them. He 
 answers by the last letter of second Corinthians, "Our light 
 afflictions which are but for a moment, work out in us a 
 far greater weight of glory." 
 
 He spent the winter at Corinth, then returned to Jeru- 
 salem, on the way making his last visit to Ephesus, also 
 stopping at the Island of Samos, where we now are; then 
 on to Melita, where he gathered the elders of the church of 
 Ephesus and gave them his farewell message ; going on to 
 Jerusalem, where the charge which brought his mighty 
 work to an end was laid against him by Jews from Ephesus. 
 
 The ruins at Ephesus are in a very poor state of pres- 
 ervation, and only interesting in an archaeological way in 
 showing the extent of the city, here was not only the ruins 
 of magnificent temples, but of the paved streets and shops 
 of a great city, the stone pavement in some places worn 
 by the wheels of chariots. Some places stand out above 
 others, the amphitheatre where Paul made his famous de- 
 fense, the library, and the small amphitheatre which is in 
 
 56 
 
an excellent state of preservation, etc. The temple of Diana, 
 one of the seven wonders of the world in Paul's time, is 
 now represented by some scattered remnants of stone, lying 
 in a pond, but the more beautiful carvings in white marble 
 have been taken to the museums of Constantinople where 
 we shall see them. 
 
 Gathering on the deck of the steamer as we neared 
 Constantinople we had the pleasure of hearing Dr. Bliss 
 lecture on the "Revolution in Turkey and Its Effects." He 
 said that for twenty years leaders had been laying plans 
 for the revolution which took place in July, two and one- 
 half years ago, and the government had known of them, 
 for 45,000 people had been exiled by Abdul Hamid as spies. 
 The Turkish substitute for a telegraph and telephone was 
 a "tell-each-other and tell-it-all." October was the date 
 set but the plans miscarried and the revolution came in 
 July. The Sultan signed the constitution on being told that 
 the army would march against him, and it was confirmed 
 before the foreign embassies, then there was an outbursting 
 of hysterical joy over the whole empire, for their oppression 
 had been heavy. When Dr. Bliss came here ten years ago 
 the censor took away his geographies and Shakespeare 
 because they told of kings being put to death. An engineer 
 telegraphed to America for a part of a machine that should 
 make thirty-one revolutions, and he was arrested, for one 
 revolution was bad enough, but thirty-one unthinkable. 
 
 Since then there has been bitter disappointment, for 
 Turks cannot appreciate that proper freedom cannot be 
 suddenly realized in a day, but must be worked out by slow 
 processes. Christian nations, instead of helping, have 
 sneered at the attempts and by their inclination to grab 
 pieces of the Turkish empire in this, her time of need, 
 made it necessary for Turkey to spend in armament the 
 money she ought to be spending on education and improve- 
 ment. Dr. Bliss was born here, his father having been 
 founder of the Syrian Protestant College, and he has great 
 admiration for, and confidence in, the Turkish people and 
 thinks that if left alone now or assisted a little, Turkey 
 could become a nation worthy to stand beside other Chris- 
 tian nations. 
 
 57 
 
April 20th 
 
 Well, here we are at last in Constantinople, the flower 
 of Turkey. I had rather hoped a quarantine or something 
 might happen to keep us away from here for I thought 
 I would not care to see it. But I am so glad we came we 
 should not have had a proper conception of Turkey if we 
 had not. We have seen only one part, the tail-end as it 
 were; just as foreigners might judge Americans by a trip 
 through New Mexico, Utah or Milpitas. But when one 
 wishes to judge America they go to her great centers of 
 commerce. So we could not have formed a fair estimate of 
 Turkey had we not seen her greatest city, of nearly a million 
 inhabitants. 
 
 Approaching it from the Bosphorus by steamer, it looks 
 extremely like San Francisco or New York, with its modern 
 buildings, apartment houses, docks, etc. Of course, on 
 closer inspection, you discover some characteristic features, 
 as the old wall built by Theodosius, the second, 430 A. D., 
 which now cuts through the heart of the city and follows 
 the sea line; also the numberless minarets and domes of 
 mosques begin to show themselves as we come nearer. Few 
 people know that this city was started by Constantine 330 
 A. D., as the capital of Christianity in the East and for noo 
 years stood as a Christian city. The Emperor built the first 
 walls but in less than 100 years they were outgrown and 
 Theodosius built new ones, which were destroyed twenty 
 years later by earthquake, just as an invasion of the Huns 
 was threatening, so thousands of men were put to work and 
 in three months the walls were rebuilt and withstood the 
 Hunnish invasion. Then for noo years these walls pro- 
 tected Constantinople from flood after flood of barbarian 
 invasion and the Greek civilization and Christian religion 
 were here preserved during the dark ages in Europe. So 
 we have these impregnable walls to thank for our own 
 Christianity and civilization. We walked on them and stood 
 on the Golden Gate, through which Theodosius came in 
 triumph after a conquest. Later the Turks built a prison 
 inside this, and we stood in the great round tower, which, 
 it is said, was almost filled with heads at some of the Janis- 
 
 58 
 
sary massacres. An interesting relic is the Burnt Column, 
 still standing, erected by Constantine, on the spot where 
 he pitched his tent, when he came to found the city. It was 
 burned, the Turks took off the capitol and for hundreds of 
 years it has had to be braced with iron hoops but it still 
 stands. In 530, Justinian, the greatest genius of Bysantine 
 history, built the New Santa Sophia Church, the first church 
 dedicated to Christianity in the Orient. After a long reign, 
 a rebellion arose in his kingdom and the city was set on fire 
 and burned, and Justinian was forced to flee. But his 
 beautiful wife, Theodora, stood by him and persuaded him 
 to return, and, with a few faithful soldiers, he overcame the 
 rebellion and gained back the city. In honor of this vic- 
 tory, he built St. Sophia and it has been used as a model for 
 Bysantium church architecture ever since. It is in the 
 form of a Maltese cross, with a great dome over the center, 
 supported by four enormous stone piers. The capitals are 
 very beautiful and the supporting arches, and half domes 
 and architraves give an impression of grace and daintiness, 
 which we have not hitherto seen in Bysantium architecture. 
 The great dome was formerly lined with gold and green 
 mosaics, in the making of which these people were adepts, 
 and it must have been gorgeous in the days of its magnifi- 
 cence. The forms of Christian crosses are visible yet under 
 the paint with which the Moslems have tried to destroy the 
 signs of this having been a Christian church. There were 
 seven doors to this church and over the main door is still 
 a carving in brass of an open book on which is written in 
 Greek, "I am the door, by me, if any man enter in, he shall 
 be saved/' Also in the capitals of the columns are medal- 
 lions bearing the Greek monogram for Christ. To counter- 
 act this, the Moslems have spoiled the whole effect of the 
 interior by hanging at the top of the four great piers an 
 enormous green shield with gilt inscriptions of the name 
 of Mohammed. These are simply atrocious, as are so many 
 of the modern things of the Moslems. The Mosque of 
 Suliman the Magnificent, is the really artistic one, and the 
 only one that has not been ruined by modern alterations. 
 It is decorated and finished in harmonious tints of brown, 
 without any of the glaring atrocities so many of these 
 
 59 
 
mosques possess. The four great central columns were 
 taken from the great Hippodrome and are beautiful in red 
 granite, softened and browned by age. From them we can 
 get an idea of what the Hippodrome must have been like. 
 This was the old amusement grounds of Constantine and 
 here for years were gathered treasures of art and sculptor. 
 It was a great amphitheatre around an elliptical colonnade 
 where the chariot races, etc., were held, and on the inside 
 of this were these statues and works of art. Here one of 
 the great obelisks from Heliopolis in Egypt was brought 
 and this is one of the things still standing here. When 
 Justinian was ruler and returned to conquer his rebellious 
 city, his soldiers slew 40,000 people in this same Hippo- 
 drome. But it flourished in all its beauty until the time of 
 the fourth crusade in 1204, when it was sacked by the Cru- 
 saders, and its marble treasures burned for lime. The whole 
 city of Constantinople, after standing for noo years, at 
 last fell, conquered in 1453, by Mohammed the Conqueror. 
 Then followed a hundred years of great Sultans, Suliman, 
 Selim, etc. 
 
 Another thing built by Justinian was an enormous cis- 
 tern, a regular underground palace with hundreds of pillars 
 with carved capitals. This place is 395 feet wide and 600 
 feet long and still contains water. 
 
 Another interesting place here is the museum. This 
 one has not been catalogued and developed like the one at 
 Cairo, but it is immensely worth seeing. The Turkish gov- 
 ernment has wakened up in the last few years to its respon- 
 sibility in preserving for the world the many archaeological 
 treasures to be found in its dominions and has established a 
 bureau with museums here and at Cairo. 
 
 Very interesting were the old Herbert tablets, such as 
 the Bible was written on. These were made of clay and 
 written on with a sharp three-sided instrument called the 
 stylus. Then they were baked. All their records and books 
 were made this way. Then for fear they might be broken 
 or injured a second layer was smeared over the first and 
 the same record written thereon so this could be cracked 
 off and the first one still held for evidence. Here also we 
 saw the original rolls of papyrus, containing the mention of 
 
 60 
 
Nebuchadnazzar's siege of Jerusalem, Sennacharib, 620 B. 
 C. and the capture of Nineveh. 
 
 The most interesting features are the sarcophagi. 
 
 About six years ago a peasant, digging in his garden, 
 struck a subterranean cavern, and, on investigation, it was 
 found to contain some fine sarcophagi and from this begin- 
 ning the ruins of Sidon were uncovered. So these are called 
 Sidon sarcophagi. One, called Alexander's, is the most 
 beautiful in existence. It is a block of solid marble carved 
 into the shape and style of a Greek temple. On all the four 
 sides are magnificent carvings, representing on one side 
 a battle scene, with Alexander drawing his sword. This is 
 the most lifelike piece of sculpture I have ever seen. We 
 have so much of the flesh-like hue of the Praxilites Hermes 
 in Rome, but it is really flesh-colored by a wonderful 
 process, such as we see signs of yet in this marble. They 
 covered these statues when finished with a highly colored 
 wax, then heated it and somewhat of the color of the wax 
 soaked into the marble. So on these sarcophagi are traces 
 of beautiful color. The expression of tenseness or relaxa- 
 tion of muscles such as would be demanded by the action 
 portrayed is something wonderful. The appearance of dead- 
 ness in the dead faces of the detail is really wonderful, in 
 fact, all this work must have been done by a master. 
 
 The pigeon mosque in Constantinople is interesting for 
 the way it got its name. A great Sultan was going to build 
 a mosque in honor of one of his victories and asked the peo- 
 ple for contributions. A poor widow brought two pigeons, 
 all she had, as her offering and the Sultan was so pleased 
 that he decreed that this should be called the Pigeon Mosque 
 and that the descendants of these birds should be cared 
 for and fed here. So it has come about that this mosque 
 has become just a large pigeon-cote and people go to see 
 it for the immense number of pigeons, rather than for its 
 beauty. 
 
 One afternoon we spent at Seraglio Point, the harem 
 of the Sultans up to the present one. Here is the window 
 in the wall where the wives of the Sultans were thrown out 
 when old and useless. (Mr. B. says this has really been 
 done up to the present time). The old Sultan was allowed, 
 
 61 
 
at the time of the revolution, to retain four of his wives. 
 The present one had four when he came to power and has 
 married two since he is allowed one a year. 
 
 But the palace to which we went is now occupied by 
 a collection of Kings treasures the richness of which you 
 could hardly believe. One, a large throne, made with large 
 seat space, so the ruler can sit cross-legged, was captured 
 from a Shah of Persia. This is of beaten gold, absolutely 
 carved with settings of pearls, emeralds and rubies, in de- 
 sign of wild roses and leaves. Over the seat of this is a 
 beautiful cushion, embroidered in the same gems. I should 
 say any one of the pearls was worth $100,000 and there are 
 hundreds of them. So far as I know, the value of any of 
 these things has never been estimated. But here in this 
 building are articles of every description, encrusted in this 
 way and emeralds actually as big as your fist. Swords, 
 with handles set with enormous diamonds, bed quilts em- 
 broidered in pearls, coats of mail set in jewels, manicure 
 sets, Korans bound in diamonds, rings, watches, clocks, 
 orders and the state robes of all the Sultans down to the 
 present. 
 
 I must not forget that one day we sat in a drizzling 
 rain half-frozen for two hours, waiting to see the present 
 Sultan go to prayer and, after it all, all we saw was a de- 
 crepit old roue of about sixty-five with white hair and flabby 
 face, showing plainly the effect of intemperance of life. 
 Really the finest thing we saw was the magnificent team 
 of Arabian steeds, hitched to his carriage, large, perfect 
 shaped and of a peculiar color, dappled light brown, a sort 
 of soft nut color. 
 
 Every Friday the Sultan goes about 500 feet from his 
 palace to the mosque to pray and Europeans, with a per- 
 mit, may sit in carriages along this drive and watch him 
 go by. The greatest part of the show is the pageantry and 
 preparations. Batallions of soldiers, gay in gold lace and 
 flying red pennants, march up and down, led by screaming 
 brass bands the Turkish scale seems to contain about three 
 tones and their idea of fineness in music is loudness. Then 
 troops of cavalry come with their beautiful Arab steeds and 
 station themselves all along the way at intervals of about 
 
 02 
 
six feet apart and facing the street. Then come the ambas- 
 sadors and their wives in carriages, and finally another band 
 and cavalry a closed carriage or two, supposed to contain 
 some of his wives, and an outrider on a horse matching the 
 Sultan's, and finally a beautiful carriage all blue and gold, 
 in which sits in solitary grandeur this poor belacekd, be- 
 jewled sot, who cannot say for one moment that his head 
 is his own. Mama reminds us here of the Bible command : 
 "When ye pray, enter into your closets and pray in secret, 
 that your Father, which heareth in secret, may reward you 
 openly." 
 
 Well, this is a great people. One commentary on them 
 is their fire protection system. Scattered around the city 
 are little hand-worked, hand-drawn fire engines. When 
 there is a fire, a watchman in the Galata tower blows a horn 
 and runs up various colored flags to show where the fire 
 is. Then the nearest engine is manned by volunteer fire- 
 men, who proceeded to the fire, which, of course, has gained 
 considerable headway. When they get to the fire, a bar- 
 gain must be struck with the owner of the building, as to 
 how much he will pay the men for their efforts, and the 
 haggling over this often keeps up until the whole building 
 is gutted. 
 
 This in a city of nearly a million inhabitants, 32,000 
 of whom are Europeans. Up to two years ago the scaven- 
 gers of the city were the dogs. People of truthfulness 
 tell that these dogs, by some understanding among them- 
 selves, had districts into which dogs of another district were 
 not allowed to come. If they did, there was sure to be a 
 fight. But after the new regime 45,000 of these dogs were 
 shipped to an island and allowed to starve to death, there 
 being a law in the Koran against killing a dog. So now the 
 notorious dogs of Constantinople are no more. But they 
 still have the howling and whirling dervishes. 
 
 We were fortunate or unfortunate in being here near 
 Easter, so the dervishes which are a form of monks among 
 the Mohammedans, were more than usually earnest in their 
 fanaticisms. I have not put through very many evenings in 
 my life so filled with horror, yet rather laughable when we 
 look back upon it. 
 
 63 
 
We went, accompanied by our dragoman, at night, 
 through a dark forest to a small illy-lighted house. Here 
 the dervishes, about twenty in number, were just beginning 
 their ceremonies. Sitting on their knees and feet on the 
 floor, they were quietly chanting responses to a black- 
 bearded priest, who sat in the Mecca niche. Soon, though, 
 they began to get a little more vociferous ; rocking back and 
 forth as they chanted their queer monotonous words. Their 
 movements became more and more violent ; their heads bob- 
 bing around as their bodies swayed back and forth, until 
 their caps fell off and their long black hair fell around their 
 faces. For at least half an hour they kept this up without 
 the least cessation, their movements, if anything, becom- 
 ing more and more violent. Finally they stopped and we 
 supposed the performance was ended. But we were mis- 
 taken it had just begun. This was the part usually shown 
 to tourists, and as much as Mr. B. had seen in his seven 
 years here. We had been conducted across the little room 
 and were sitting where we could not get out without going 
 right among the dervishes. So when we saw there was 
 more coming we decided to stay, much to our sorrow after- 
 wards. You would have thought the men would have been 
 utterly exhausted but now they stood up and began again, 
 bending backward and forward from the waist line. None 
 of them will ever die of liver trouble if there is anything 
 in the gymnastics they give for it. It must have been for 
 an hour at least that they kept that up, uttering a peculiar, 
 gutteral, spirant sound all the time. This only added to the 
 uncanniness of what was going on in the meantime. The 
 priest stripped himself to the waist and let his long black 
 hair stream down over his shoulders. Then he took down 
 a sword and ran his finger along it to see if it was sharp, 
 or rather I think to see that it was not sharp. Then he 
 proceeded to stamp around and beat himself over the head 
 with the flat side of the sword, but very carefully, arranging 
 his hair all the time as if he were getting ready to slash his 
 shoulders. Then they brought a basin and set it before 
 him, as he knelt on the floor and he put the edge of the 
 sword across his abdomen, leaned over it and appeared to 
 be trying to cut himself open. But nothing happened and 
 
 64 
 
no blood came. Again he got up and stamped around and 
 again he leaned, this time on the point of the sword, with 
 the basin waiting to receive the blood. Then two men 
 took him and held him by arms and feet, while a third stood 
 on his back, his heart resting on the point of the sword, of 
 which the hilt was on the floor. Imagine our horror and 
 repulsion, for none could tell to what lengths these fren- 
 zied men might go and we could not get out. But we 
 might have saved ourselves fear, for the old priest. He 
 had been very careful not to work himself into a frenzy 
 and was very careful not to hurt himself. But now he 
 began on the other men. He took one fellow from among 
 the howling dervishes and led him up to the slaughter. 
 He took a thing like a large meat skewer and slowly forced 
 it through the man's cheeks and this time there was no 
 fooling about it. Then they brought the poor fellow over 
 to a post right beside me and nailed him to it by the 
 cheek and he stood there for fully five minutes or more be- 
 fore they took him away. They were starting to fix another 
 man and we women were about to faint when Mr. B. called 
 one of the men to him and told him we would have to go, 
 so they managed to get the bobbling, howling men far 
 enough from the rear wall so that we could squeeze through 
 and get out. But I shall never forget the feel of one of the 
 men's sweaty black hair, as a string of it whisked across my 
 face and you may be sure we were all glad to get out to 
 fresh air again. They say they continue this till all fall 
 on the floor in a heap, from absolute exhaustion. 
 
 After this experience, you may judge that we were not 
 elated to hear the next day that we were to visit the dancing 
 dervishes, but we were assured that this was nice and so it 
 was and not so exciting. The dervishes were all dressed in 
 green, but one wore white. They were supposed in their 
 dance to represent the stars in their courses. They first 
 have a very stately march and bowing, they begin to whirl, 
 moving around slowly in a circle and increasing gradually 
 the speed of their whirling, their green skirts standing out 
 like so many umbrellas. They say they keep this up for 
 hours, all the time accompanied by a weird tune on pipes. 
 On Monday afternoon, April 23rd, we enjoyed a boat 
 
 65 
 
ride up the Bosphorus, as far as the Black Sea, the whole 
 way scenic with towering mountains, dotted with white 
 villas and occasional ruined towers and castles. The 
 weather here has been the only thing to spoil our enjoy- 
 ment of Constantinople, but that reminds us of home, for 
 it was about such weather as we were having when we 
 left Berkeley. 
 
 i( We sailed April 25th for Piraeus, the port of Athens, on 
 the line steamer Ismalia, a much more comfortable boat 
 than we have been on before in the Mediterranean. Our 
 ride has been a delightful one through the famous routes 
 and scenes of the Iliad and the Odyssey, which tales Mr. 
 B. told us as we went along, and the time seemed very 
 short until we sighted Athens. We landed at Piraeus and 
 were driven over a beautiful boulevard the four miles to 
 Athens, through a fertile, smiling country. 
 
 Thing of it, ye folk of youthful Berkeley, we, humble 
 citizens of the U. S. of America, are going to sleep tonight 
 in the shadow of the great Parthenon, 3000 years old, and 
 are now watching the lights and shadows of the Oriental 
 sunset play upon its majestic ruins from our room in the 
 hotel. It is certainly an experience never to be forgotten. 
 I had always had an idea that the Temple of Athena, the 
 Parthenon, The Odeon, etc., were scattered about the city, 
 but I was mistaken, for here on the small top or slopes of 
 this hill is about everything worth seeing. Only the The- 
 sium, the temple of Zeus and the Stadium are not here. So 
 that every time we look out of our window we see really 
 the whole center of ancient Greek culture, of which the 
 real beauty and aestheticism cannot be realized until these 
 ruins are comprehended. All of Roman art and architec- 
 ture was copied from this and lost much of its symmetry 
 and proportion in the copying. On the site of the old Sta- 
 dium, half a mile from the Acropolis, a Greek millionaire 
 has erected an exact copy of the old gaming-place, holding 
 50,000 people and beside which our Greek Theatre at Ber- 
 keley sinks into insignificance. Here we had the privilege 
 of watching some Greek scholastic games. 
 
 Acropolis means the top of the hill, and this particular 
 one is a rocky peak chosen by the very earliest Greeks for 
 
 66 
 
a residence and citadel, because of the ease with which 
 it could be defended. Here after their work was done in 
 the surrounding fields, the people gathered to their homes. 
 So naturally, they built their temple here also, the stones of 
 one to Athena are to be found yet in the foundations of the 
 present one. But the Persians besieged it, starved out the 
 garrison, and destroyed it. When Themistocles saw that 
 the city must be given over to the Persians, he pursuaded 
 the Greeks to retire to the Island of Salamis, and meet the 
 Persians there with their navy which surpassed that of 
 the Persians. Accordingly the battle of Salamis was fought, 
 ending in the complete rout of the Persians, and the Greeks 
 came back and rebuilt their city. Gradually they acquired 
 power and with prosperity took their place as a center of 
 culture, in art, literature, and philosophy. Plans were 
 made for a great Parthenon but were abandoned, after a par- 
 tial preparation of the stone, some of which we still find in 
 the walls of other buildings here. But in the time of Peri- 
 cles, Phidias was hired as chief architect and sculptor and 
 the present Parthenon built. Strange to say none of 
 Phidias' sculpture has survived, yet we know from this 
 great monument that he was a consummate artist. The 
 proportions of beauty have been carefully figured out and 
 I never saw anything which for pure symmetry was so 
 beautiful. The floor space is in the proportion of nine to 
 four, the columns eighteen times higher than their diameter. 
 Doric columns have never been attractive to me, and the 
 Roman ones look squatty and mashed out at the capitol as 
 if too heavy a weight had been placed upon them, but when 
 I saw those in the Parthenon, made in the proper propor- 
 tions, and the cushion at the top not so angular, they be- 
 came my favorite. They have no base and only a cushion 
 at the top, and are grooved, with a flat surface between the 
 grooves. Made this way and slightly smaller at the top 
 than at the bottom, they have a dignity and stability about 
 them that would be lost with more ornamentation. 
 
 The queerest thing about this building is that there is 
 not a straight line about it, although this is not noticeable 
 unless your attention is called to it. The stylobat or foun- 
 dation of three stairs on which the temple rests is curved 
 
 67 
 
four inches in its length of one hundred feet, the columns 
 lean in three inches at the top and this slight variation 
 keeps the colonnade from having the appearance of spread- 
 ing at the top. All this must have been figured out, and the 
 result of careful experiment. Of course, its crowning glory 
 was the sculpture, of which little is left, and that is in the 
 British museum, but copies of it are in the museum here 
 on the Acropolis. It was all of white marble, and with 
 the figures in place on the pediment, friezes and metopes, the 
 Parthenon must indeed have been the most beautiful temple 
 of ancient times. The motto of the Greeks was to build 
 perfectly, not large, and each of these stones were ground 
 against the other until they made a perfect joint, one of 
 which has remained through all these years. The whole 
 Parthenon stood in an excellent state of preservation until 
 1636, at which time, while being used as a magazine by the 
 Turks, it was wrecked by an explosion. Another of the 
 gems of the Acropolis, the Nike Apteros temple commemo- 
 rating the victories of Marathon, Salamis and Platea, was 
 torn down by the Turks, and built into the walls of the 
 Turkish bastion. But some seventy-five years ago, some 
 Germans dug out the stones and restored them as nearly 
 as they could according to the former plans, so that today 
 we see a fairly accurate restoration of it. 
 
 Another beautiful temple on this same hill is the Thes- 
 eum, of which the most famous part was the Caryatid 
 porch. The perfection of Greek art is well exemplified in 
 this. For some reason it was desirable to have women sup- 
 porting the roof of this porch, instead of the ordinary col- 
 umn, but it would be tiresome to the beholder, and there- 
 fore inartistic, if the women looked as if the weight were 
 too much for them. So they must be given an appearance 
 of ease, and to do this the artist has represented them as 
 resting slightly on one foot. But if all six rested on the same 
 foot it would give an optical delusion of leaning, so those 
 on the right are resting on the right foot, those on the left 
 side on the left foot, so that the appearance of restfulness 
 as well as erectness is preserved. On the other side of this 
 temple is a doorway so beautiful that it has been used as 
 a model ever since, in fact the moulding was just like the 
 
chain moulding between the panels of the dining room 
 at home. 
 
 The entrance to the Acropolis is made through the 
 Prophylea, which was built 437 B. C. by the architect 
 Mnesicles, but it has never been entirely finished as it en- 
 croached on the Nike Apteros temple. This is little more 
 than an elaborate colonnade of Doric columns, with a sep- 
 arating wall in which is a massive doorway, and has one 
 complete wing, which was used in Grecian times as a pic- 
 ture gallery. On the Acropolis we have examples of three 
 kinds of Grecian columns at their best, the Prophylea has 
 Doris; the Parthenon, Ionic; the Theseum, Corinthian. 
 These were put together in great sections and the fluting 
 done afterward, then all the polishing done after the whole 
 temple was completed. The Acropolis museum is inter- 
 esting, still it seems a shame that so much of the really fine 
 work should have been taken away, for here almost the 
 only original work on exhibition is some of the stones made 
 for the first Parthenon, which, when they were not used, 
 were thrown into the debris used to fill out the retaining 
 wall by which the area of the top of the hill was increased. 
 Later they were discovered, dug up and placed here. 
 
 The pediment of the Parthenon, which was the mas- 
 terpiece of Phidias, has only small remnants left, but a 
 diagram and picture has been made from the fragments, 
 so we can tell what it was like. It was quite a problem to 
 put into this triangular space a group of statuary that would 
 properly fill it. On the east end, Phidias put a portrayal 
 of the birth of Athens, the patron goddess of Athens. She 
 was supposed to have sprung full grown from the head of 
 Zeus when Triton struck it with his staff. Athena is stand- 
 ing, full-panoplied, in the middle of the pediment, a ma- 
 jestic figure, and Zeus, awe-struck sitting on her right side, 
 while Triton on the other side is in a half crouching posi- 
 tion of amazement; beyond him is Hermes, just starting 
 to carry the news of the birth to the world. He marks a 
 transition, for the rest of the figures must of necessity 
 be smaller and as humans are smaller than gods, the re- 
 mainder of the space is used to show how the news was re- 
 ceived on the earth. At the other end are the people of the 
 
 69 
 
earth as they were acting in the morning before they heard 
 the news. At the very first is a representation of the sun 
 starting out in his chariot according to the Greek concep- 
 tion. Even in cold marble the morning vim and fresh- 
 ness are plainly visible in both driver and horses. Some- 
 thing in the position of the arms of the charioteer seems to 
 say to the prancing horses, "Go on, go just as fast as you 
 can, but I shall always have control of you." At the other 
 end, the day's work is done, and, while there is no appear- 
 ance of weakness, there is relaxation and lassitude in nostril 
 and the whole general appearance. Some of these horses' 
 heads are still here and are wonderful. You really appre- 
 ciate Greek art after you see it here, and after you have 
 compared it with its successors. At Corinth, where we saw 
 the ruins of a Roman temple, the figures seemed much 
 coarser and more plebeian. One peculiar thing we have 
 learned about Greek art : At the time of Themistocles and 
 Phidias, the Greeks were at their best as regards vigor, har- 
 dihood and virtue, and at this time we have the best sculp- 
 ture. The ideal for men was strength ; for women, virtue ; 
 so the male figure was portrayed nude, showing the free 
 play of the muscles, while the women were shown in simple 
 draperies. But at the time of Pisistrates the state had been 
 enriched, and all the vices that come with prosperity had 
 fastened themselves on the people. In this period we find 
 nude women but the men are draped in gowns of varying 
 degrees of richness, showing the deterioration of ideals. 
 
 On the side of the Acropolis hill is the Theatre of 
 Dyonysius, and the Odeon ; in the first, the earliest Greek 
 plays were performed; in the second, the musical concerts 
 were given. Greece often had festivals in which rich men 
 contended for prizes for the most successful dramas. They 
 searched for geniuses who could write, supported them 
 while they worked and staged their productions in the finest 
 style. The one who thus put on the best play was given a 
 tripod and laurel wreath, which they displayed on Corregios 
 or monuments, built by the victor for the purpose, and some 
 are still to be seen scattered about the city in various places. 
 
 On one afternoon we drove to Eluesis, where the ruins 
 of another Greek temple are, a beautiful drive in an ideal 
 
 70 
 
spring day along the shores of blue Eluesis Bay. Athens 
 and Greece were certainly delightful, but homesickness was 
 upon us and we were glad to sail from Patras for Brindisi, 
 stopping on the way for a drive on the island of Corfu. 
 We arrived at Brindisi at three o'clock in the morning 
 and were called immediately to go ashore. Here our party 
 broke up, for the regular tour ends at Naples, but only two 
 went on to Naples, the others scattering to various parts of 
 Europe. We consider ourselves very fortunate in having 
 Mr. Bailey so arrange his homeward journey that he can 
 take us through Europe, the party now consisting of the 
 Naylors, Mrs. Sevier, Mr. Bailey, and his eleven-year-old 
 son, Charles. Starting early in the morning, we traveled 
 all day " 'neath blue Italian skies," only they did not hap- 
 pen to be blue, as it rained all day. But Italy is certainly 
 a delightful country, almost every hill-top crowned with a 
 ruined tower, and as a frequent background for these, snow- 
 clad mountains; as a foreground, green fields and orchards 
 and pastures dotted with sheep. There is very little ground 
 not used in some way, though most of the way we traveled 
 was through the Appennine mountains. Finally we rounded 
 a curve suddenly and beheld the lights of Rome, and here 
 we were in a real European city again and in a real Euro- 
 pean hotel, the Michel. 
 
 It is almost useless to attempt to write a diary of Rome, 
 I think a catalogue of the things we saw is about the best 
 I can do, and they are so well known that it is hardly 
 necessary to describe them. First was the Forum, the an- 
 cient Senate chamber of the Romans, where the citizens 
 came to listen to such orators as Brutus, Mark Antony and 
 others. Here also is the tomb of Romulus, and the halls 
 of the Vestal Virgins. Each of these virgins, who took the 
 veil at nine years of age or more, and could not marry until 
 they were past forty-five years of age, had a room here by 
 the Forum and the remains show them to have been dainty 
 and fine ; after all these 2000 years one dainty little tracery 
 of a vine is left on a broken wall. Here, too, was the 
 Coliseum where the great spectacles were held, and where 
 many Christians were fed to the lions in the time of Nero, 
 where sometimes they filled the great arena with water 
 
and had great maritime battles with triremes. Then we 
 went to the adjacent Mamertine prisons where Peter was 
 supposed to have been confined, and to have converted the 
 jailor. This was a dark, damp cavern in the rock, now 
 decorated with a gaudy shrine and a hole in the floor leads 
 down to another cave, into which prisoners were lowered 
 by a rope, and were kept there until they died, which could 
 not have been very long. 
 
 %^ Rome is justly famous for its fine churches, many of 
 them were decorated by famous painters and contain some 
 masterpieces. In the Church of Saint Peter in Chains is 
 the famous statue of Moses. One cannot realize until they 
 see these masterpieces, just why they should be so famous, 
 for copies of them give but a poor idea of the majesty 
 of them and the great ideals which they express. I have 
 always thought that I should like to see these just because 
 they were famous, and because of lack of any special knowl- 
 edge of the technique of art should not be able to appreciate 
 their artistic value. But it does not take an experienced art 
 critic to appreciate the rare ability that created Moses or 
 the Apollo Belvidere, or Venus, or the Winged Victory. 
 When you look on the statue of Moses you cannot but feel 
 in your innermost soul, his righteous indignation as he came 
 down from the mount and found the people worshipping the 
 golden calf. There is no ungovernerable anger in the face, 
 every line is that of a strong, self-controlled man, such as 
 the leader of a contrary people must have been, a very rug- 
 ged face and figure, the left foot drawn back as if the reso- 
 lution expressed in the face was already being put into ac- 
 tion. The best known of Rome's churches is Saint 
 Peter's, but it was a disappointment to me in every particu- 
 lar except size. The great dome faced with mosaic repro- 
 duction of famous pictures was particularly striking, but 
 the general effect of the whole was spoiled by the 
 gaudy black and gilt sacristy that stands at the intersec- 
 tion of the nave and transcript. Without this the effect 
 of purity and sanctity given by the vari-colored marbles 
 would be very much heightened, in my humble opinion. 
 Among the many interesting statues here is one in bronze 
 of St. Peter which actually has the great toe kissed away 
 
 72 
 
by pilgrims who have worshipped before it. From this 
 church we went to the Vatican art galleries, part of the 
 ramshackle old structure that is the home and voluntary 
 prison of the Pope, for he never leaves it. Some idea of 
 the size of it may be gained from the fact that we had to 
 take carriages to get from St. Peter's, on one side of the 
 Vatican, to the entrance of the art gallery on the other. 
 Once inside the gallery you may walk miles, nine, I be- 
 lieve it is, through rows of pictures, statues and tapestries, 
 of which the best are the Apollo Belvidere, Venus, the Dis- 
 cus Thrower, the double statue of the Boxers, and the 
 Raphael tapestries. The finest work is in the Sistine 
 Chapel, where is practically all that remains of the paintings 
 of Michael Angelo ; the Last Judgment, on the wall of this 
 chapel being his masterpiece. The pictures are very much 
 obscured by time and the light is very poor, but enough 
 is left to show that here was really a masterpiece of con- 
 ception and execution. Angelo began this when he was 
 sixty years old, and completed it in seven years. The pic- 
 tures on the ceiling represent the creation of the world. 
 
 The church that best suits my taste was the Church of 
 St. Peter Without the Walls. The panels of every different 
 variety of fine stone and marble, the columns of white gran- 
 ite from the Alps, and of alabaster softened with age give an 
 air of quiet dignity and simple elegance that is ideal. And 
 the Sacristy here is a work of art and not a freak as is 
 the one in St. Peter's. One of the oldest and most aristo- 
 cratic churches was that of St. John, Lateran, which was 
 the favorite of Pope Leo XIII. He spent a great deal of 
 money in beautifying it, and had a fine mausoleum for him- 
 self placed here, but owing to some hitch in the red tape 
 of the government, his body has not yet been placed in it 
 Two old brass doors here are famous for the chord they 
 make when swinging on their hinges, the tone at starting 
 being just one octave lower than the one at ending. Two 
 days were all too short to see anything of Rome and our 
 glimpse only made us more determined to come again. 
 
 From Rome to Paris we traveled only by day so that 
 we got to see the country as we passed through, stopping 
 for the first night at Genoa, the second at Lausanne, in the 
 
Swiss Alps. The first day we followed the shores of the 
 Mediterranean, seeing in the distance the Island of Elba, 
 also the leaning tower of Pisa; on the second we reached 
 the Alps, and traveled all day through the most beautiful 
 scenery we had ever seen. All along on our journey we 
 loyal Californians had insisted that everything we saw was 
 "just like California," or "not nearly as nice," until I think 
 everybody in the crowd were tired of hearing it, but here 
 we were silent. The beauty of the snow-clad mountains in 
 such rugged fantastic shapes, the green fertile valleys, the 
 innumerable dashing ribbons of cataracts, why should I 
 try to describe them, when people of ten times my descript- 
 ive abilities have failed. One of the chief attractions was 
 variety ; for every glimpse was different ; here the sun mak- 
 ing glistening gold of the snow, here the blue shadow of the 
 pines on dashing spray. We stopped for the night at 
 Lausanne, on Lake Geneva, after passing through the 
 famous Simplon Pass, and saw the sun set golden over the 
 distant snowy peaks, leaving the Castle of Chillon gray 
 against the blue waters of the lake as we looked from our 
 balcony windows. Here, more than any other place we 
 have been, we should have loved to tarry, and if we should 
 ever cross the ocean again a long stay here would certainly 
 be arranged in our itinerary. 
 
 V Taking the train early the next morning we were soon 
 by means of an endless number of tunnels, carried out of 
 this beautiful, clean, thrifty, Swiss country, into France, 
 just as clean and thrifty but more monotonous, because it 
 is mostly level in this part. But early in the afternoon we 
 arrive at Paris, and there is certainly nothing monotonous 
 there. Even for us staid Quakers it had a glamour of life 
 and gaiety. We cannot say, however, that we enjoyed 
 our "high life in Paris." (We had rooms on the top floor 
 of a six-story hotel and there was no elevator). We hired 
 an automobile one afternoon and took a ride out to the 
 Champs Elysses while the elite were on parade and saw 
 the latest style in everything from dogs to tube skirts so 
 tight that they had to be laced out at the bottom to allow 
 the wearer to step. At the end of this drive is the Boise de 
 Boulogne, which is just a great grove of trees preserved 
 
 74 
 
in its natural state for the use of the Parisians, and with 
 its countless acres and long vistas of woodland it makes 
 a paradise for automobilists, bicyclists, pedestrians, and 
 particularly for the children of the rich who come here in 
 great numbers with their nurse maids. 
 
 The great thing to see in Paris is the Louvre, of course, 
 though we took a cursory glance at the churches of St. 
 Maggoire, of St. Saens Chappelle, and Notre Dame, see- 
 ing here the old crown gems and robes of state of Napoleon 
 and of many other famous kings of France. At the Louvre 
 one could spend days browsing among such masters as Fra 
 Angelico, Andrea Del Sarto, Murillo, Rembrandt, Rubens, 
 Millet and others. My favorite was Murillo's Immaculate 
 Conception, the Holy Family and Mona Lisa by Leonardo 
 da Vinci. This last I have never been able to appreciate 
 from the copies I have seen, and for my own part would 
 never try to make anyone who had not seen the original 
 appreciate it, for in all the copies the sweet smile on the 
 face becomes a grin ; but there is an ineffable sweetness and 
 depth of character about the whole face that is lost in 
 anything but the original. While this was painted as a por- 
 trait it is nevertheless the embodiment of the artists's ideal 
 woman, not so much as to physical beauty as to beauty of 
 character. The "Marriage at Cana" was interesting because 
 in it the artist had introduced the faces of many prominent 
 people, as artists often did in the time of Raphael. Paul 
 Veronese has here painted Eleanor of Austria as the Bride, 
 next to her is Francis I, on the other Mary of England, Sul- 
 tan Suliman, Emperor Charles V, and Titian in the orchestra 
 is playing the bass-viol. One of the sweet mother-pictures 
 was that of Madame Le Brun and her daughter, painted by 
 herself. The Winged Victory of Samathrace is by far the 
 most impressive piece of sculpture here a headless figure 
 on the prow of a trireme. There is something in the whole 
 pose of the figure and the ease of the flying draperies that 
 inspires a feeling of conquest and buoyant progress. An- 
 other of the treasures of the Louvre is the Venus de Milo. 
 In the Luxumbourg gallery was a fine statue of St. John, 
 also one litle piece of statuary by Theodore Riviere, prac- 
 tically unknown to fame, but very attractive to me in its 
 
conception. It was called Aspiration. A middle-aged man 
 has just pulled himself up to where he can look over the 
 edge of a precipice up which he has been laboriously climb- 
 ing, and what he sees is a skeleton representing death. 
 
 Then we saw the Place de la Concorde, many of the 
 spots made famous in the terrible days of the French Revo- 
 lution, and the beautiful red-granite tomb of Napoleon. We 
 were sorry our time was so limited, but necessity compelled 
 us to take up our march to London, going by the way of 
 Calais by train and then across the Channel to Dover. For 
 a wonder the Channel was smooth and Papa had no ex- 
 cuse for getting sick, and as the passage here is only two 
 hours we managed to get safely across. Then we took train 
 at Dover, and went through the close-clipped, box-hedged 
 meadows of England to smoky London, too big to cover in 
 three years, and we had but three days. But thanks to the 
 speed of autos we were able to see a good many things, and 
 we got a good view of the general life of the town by rid- 
 ing from one place to another on the tops of the busses 
 which takes the place of our electric cars. Westminster 
 Abbey was closed to visitors as it was in the hands of the 
 decorators who were arranging it for the Coronation, but 
 we got to hear the famous boys' choir in St. Paul's church. 
 One afternoon in an auto we covered twenty-one miles and 
 saw the following things : 
 
 1. The Tiber Gallows. 
 
 2. Hyde Park. 
 
 3. Albert Memorial and Monument. 
 
 4. Kensington Museum. 
 
 5. Albert Museum. 
 
 6. The Royal Mews. 
 
 7. Billingsgate. 
 
 8. Parliament Houses. 
 
 9. Westminster Abbey. 
 
 10. Westminster Bridge. 
 
 11. Spurgeon's Church. 
 
 12. The Tabard Inn. 
 
 13. London Bridge. 
 
 14. The Tower Bridge. 
 
 15. Tower of London. 
 
 76 
 
16. Church where William Penn was baptised. 
 
 17. Church where John Harvard was baptised. 
 
 18. Church where John Milton was baptised. 
 
 19. Bunhill Fields Cemetery, inclosing the tombs of 
 Isaac Watts, John Bunyan, Susanne Wesley, 
 Daniel DeFoe and George Fox. 
 
 20. The Wesley Chapel. 
 
 21. St. James Palace. 
 
 22. Marlborough House. 
 
 23. Pall Mall. 
 
 24. Lambert Palace. 
 
 25. Monument marking origin of the great fire. 
 
 26. Bank of England. 
 
 27. Mansion House. 
 
 28. Mint. 
 
 29. Old London Walls. 
 
 30. Charter House. 
 
 31. The burial place of John Smith. 
 
 32. Smithfield. 
 
 33. St. Bartholomew's Church. 
 
 In the Bunhills Fields Cemetery we saw many queer 
 and interesting inscriptions on the old tombstones but the 
 queerest was one which bore the name of a woman and 
 this touching obituary : 
 
 "In 67 months tapped 66 times and there were taken 
 from her 240 gallons of water without ever once complain- 
 ing of her sad lot or fearing the operation." 
 
 On the I4th of May we boarded the Liverpool Express 
 and were whisked away to catch the Mauretania, and in six 
 hours were actually starting for home. How different were 
 our sensations than when we left home shores; the gen- 
 eral scenes were the same; the same rush of baggage men 
 and officers; the same signals; the same thunderous "All 
 visitors ashore ;" the same procession down the gang-plank, 
 some weeping, some joyous, but not the same impulse on 
 our part to rush down the gang-plank before it was pulled 
 up. Oh, no ! We were going home. But this is home to 
 many and there is the old grandfather waving farewell to 
 a departing son and family he will probably never see again, 
 waving with one hand and wiping away the tears with the 
 
 77 
 
other. Beside him a woman stands with head bowed on 
 the rail unable to take the last look; here a brave young 
 mother, with babe on her shoulder and hope in her face, 
 bidding good-bye to the father, going to carve out a home 
 for his little family in the foreign land; here the wives of 
 the ship's employees, waving good-bye with the stolidity 
 of long experience. So it goes, joy for some, sorrow for 
 others. After all what have we really seen of the life of the 
 people of the world? All these temples, pictures, etc., are 
 only the expression of the highest life of the people, we 
 have lived for four months only on the sunny side of life 
 but there was much of misery and of sin and suffering we 
 saw, and much more that we did not see. But there is much 
 of it at home ; a poor old woman lying in dirt and neglect in 
 Samaria, a neglected boy dying in Tiberias, a blind, diseased 
 beggar girl in Jerusalem, just such pitiful things can be 
 found in our own enlightened country and we are begin- 
 ning to feel after our long vacation that we too must take 
 up again our duties in life and bear as best we may not only 
 our own burdens but the burdens of those who have fallen 
 by the roadside. 
 
 78 
 
PRESS OF LACK BROS. 
 BERKELEY. CALIFORNIA 
 
UNIVERSITY OP CALIFORNIA LIBBAEY, 
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 JAN 681930