NORTH PACIFIC PILOT 1 ART L ^>: NORTH AMERICA. (WEST C0AST.1 ai^^v-'&-'^ JAMES F. IIEAY^ (,•■'■; t )/^\^'-' i\i,.iSm i^iiiiiiiiiiBMiiii UCSB LIBRARY "» IBila'il^ii1C!E T© SAN FRAN€I§C© BA¥ NORTH PACIFIC PILOT: PART I. THE WEST COAST NORTH AMERICA, BETWEEN PANAMA AND QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS* INOLUDINd PORT SIMPSON AND SITKA SOUND. JAMES F. IMRAY, F.R.G.S. TBXBD ESZTIONo LONDON, E: JAMES IMRAY & SON, CHART AN.D NAUTICAIi BOOK PUBLISHERS 89 & 102, MINORIES. 1881. N.B.— North Pacific Pilot, Part II., comprises " Ilie Islands of the North Pacific Ocean ", by W. H. Rosser. For list of New Charts for the Pacific Ocean, dc, published by James Imray S Son, see end of Book. *** Communications fob the future Improvement of this or any of our Works, will bb thankfully received and acknowledged. PREFACE Since the publication of the first edition of this Work great and important changes — both political and commercial — have occurred on the western sea-board of the North American Continent ; not only have vast territories passed into other hands and new boundaries been determined for various states, but the discovery of extensive " gold bearing " districts, which at first drew thither a large body of immigrants bound for the "diggings," and who went there merely to search for the precious metals and for minerals, has finally resulted in the settlement of richly productive agricultural tracts; thus villages have bedome towns, — and towns, cities, — while the formerly unfrequented harbours and roadsteads have become marts of commerce to which the shipping of all nations resort, — and so, as regards navigation, calls for better and improved charts, and sailing directions. The lack of information which rendered the first edition very incomplete can now nO longer be pleaded. In the interval the different maritime nations have been emulous in the production of good surveys, and hence what formerly could only be presented to the Navigator in detached fragments, becomes a connected description of the entir6 coast from Panama to Queen Charlotte islands, — not so perfect as a continually increasing commerce may ultimately demand, but still sufficient for its present exigen- cies. The deficiences will be supplied as opportunity off'ers, as new ports are opened, and as the increasing traffic of the older ports improves, — as changes resulting alike from physical and human causes occur. The present (third) edition of this Work has been enlarged, revised and corrected up to date by Mr. Henry D. Jenkins, J. F. I, Bee. 1880. AUTHORITIES. The following are some of the publications consulted in the ccinpilation of this Work :— South American Pilot. Vol. 2. Dampier's Voyages. 4 vols. Voyages and Travels by Captain Basil Hall, R.N. Central America; describing the States of Guatemala, Honduras, Salvador, Nica- ragua and Costa Rica, the natural features, &c., by John Baily, 1850. Remarks on the Navigation of the coasts between San Francisco and Panama, by W. H. Parker, P.M.S.S. Co., 1871. The Isthmus of Tehuantepec : being the results of a survey for a railroad, &c., to connect the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, by J. J. Williams, principal assistant engineer. A voyage round the world in the years 1740-4, commanded by Lord Anson. Com- piled from his papers and materials by Richard Walter. Travels in Mexico by Lieut. Hardy, R.N., 1826. Report of the reconnaissance of the Gulf of California and Colorado river, made in 1850-51. By Lieut. Geo. H. Derby, U.S. Navy. Remarks of Commander George Dewey, U.S.N., on the coasts of Lower California and Mexico, 1874. Reports of the United States Coast Survey, presented to Congress to 1875. Coast Pilot of California, Oregon, Washington territory. By George Davidson, of U.S. Coast Survey, 1869. Coast Pilot of Alaska, Part first, from Southern Boundary to Cook's Inlet. By George Davidson, of U.S. Coast Survey, 1869. Vancouver Island Pilot. Nautical Magazines to 1880. Annales hydrographiques to 1880. Narrative of an Exploring Expedition to the Atlantic and Pacific Ocean, by Captain Charles Wilks, U.S. Navy, 5 vols. AUTHORITIES. V. Surveys of portions of the coast of California in the vicinity of San Francisco bay, by Commander Cadwalader Ringgold, U.S. Navy, 1852. Narrative of a voyage round the World performed in H.M.S. Sulphur, during the years 1836-42, by Captain Sir Edward Belcher, R.N. Narrative of a voyage to the Pacific performed in H.M.S. Blossom, under the com- mand of Captain F. W. Beechey, R.N., F.R.S., in the years 1825-28. Voyage of discovery to the North Pacific Ocean and round the World, performed in the year 1790-95 by Captain George Vancouver, R.N. A voyage to the South Atlantic and round Cape Horn into the Pacific Ocean, &c. By James Colnett, R.N., 1792-4. Reconnaissance hydrographique des cotes occidentales du Centre Amerique, executee par la corvette La BriUiante, sous le commandement de M. T. de Lapelin, 1852, Instructions Nautiques sur les cotes ouest du Centre Amerique et du Mexique, redigees d'apres les travaux de M. le Contre-Amiral de Lapelin, &c. Par M. A. Pailhes, Lieutenant de vaisseau, 1879. Renseignements sur le Centre Amerique recueillis pendant le voyage de La Melanie, 1823, par A. Maire, capitaine au long cours. Reconnaissance hydrographique des cotes occidentales du Centre Amerique, province de Veraguas (Nouvelle Grenade) par M. de Rosencoat, capitaine de fregate, com- mandant UOblit/ado, en 1854. Exploration du territoire de I'Oregon, des Californies et de la mer Vermeille executee pendant les annees 1840, 1841 et 1842, par M. Duflot de Mofras, attache a la Legation de France a Mexique. Voyage autour du monde, sur la fregate La Venus, commandee par Abel du Petit- Thouars. Par C. de Tessau. Gran Almanaque Mexicano y Directorio del Comercio, 1867. The Alta California Almanac and book of facts for 1880. Tenuent's Nautical Almanac, Tide Register for the Pacific coast and Marine Digest for 1880. Published at San Francisco. Numerous " Notices to Mariners " and Charts issued by the Governments of the ymted States, Great Britain and France. CONTENTS. General Remarks on Central America — Guatemala, San Salvador 2 ; Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Ilica 3 ; lakes and mountains 4 ; products 5. Gulf of Panama — Cape Corrientes 6 ; Cabita bay, Utria, Solano bay 7 ; Oupica bay, Octavia bay, Pinas bay 8 ; Garachine bay, San Miguel bay ; Darien harbour, Tuyra and Savana rivers 11 ; Trinidad river, Chiman river, Pelado island 12 ; Chepillo island, Chepo river, Panama 13 ; Perico and Flamenco islands, &c 17 ; Taboga island, Urava, Taboguillo 18 ; Chame bay 19 ; Otoque and Bona islands, Parita bay, cape Mala, Pearl islands 20 ; winds, currents, &c., in the gulf of Panama 24 ; passages to and from the gulf 25 — 26. Cape Mala to Cape Corrientes — The Frailes, Montijo bay 27 ; Cebaco and Gobernador islands, Bahia Honda 28 ; Monita and Rosario bays 29 ; Pueblo Nuevo 30 ; San Lorenzo bay, David bay 32 ; Boca Chica, Parida island, point Burrica, Coiba island 35 ; Hicarons, Rancheria, Contreras 37 ; Secas, Montuosa, Ladrones, gulf of Dulce 38 ; cape Matapalo 89 ; Punta Arenitas 40 ; Golfito inlet 41 ; point Sal-si-puedes 42 ; point Llorena, Cano island 43 ; point Mala de los Indios 44 ; point Ubita, point Quepos, &c. 45 ; port Herradura 46 ; gulf of Nicoya, Punta Arenas 47 ; cape Blanco 48 and 50 ; Culebra bay 51 ; Murcielagos islands, Elena bay, Salinas bay 52 ; San Juan del Sur 53 ; gulf of the Papagayos 54 ; Brito 55 ; Tamarinda, pape Desolada 56 ; Corinto or Realejo bay, Cardon island 58 ; Corinto 60 ; Manzana or False Cardon island 61 ; Speck reef, Mesa de Rolland, point Coseguina 62 ; gulf of Fonseca, Estero Real, Playa Grande 63; Amapala point, La Union 64 ; Farallones, Manguera, &c. 66 ; Amapala 67 ; port Jiquilisco 69 ; river Lempa, Concordia, Libertad 71 ; point Remedios, Acajutla 73 ; Istapa76; San Jose 77; San Geronimo, Tecojate, San Louis 79 ; Champerico, Tonala bay, Tehauntepec lagoons 80 ; Ventosa bay 81 ; Salina Cruz 84 ; Salina del Marques, Morro Ayuca, Guatulco 85 ; Sacrificios, port Angeles 91 ; Mal- donado point 92 ; Dulce river, Acapulco 93 ; Sihuatanejo 97 ; Marnata, Manzanilla bay 100 ; cape Graham 103 ; Navidad bay 104 ; Tenacatita bay, Perula bay 105 ; cape Corrientes 107. CONTENTS. vii. Cape Corrientes to Mazatlan — Banderas bay, Corralies 107 ; Ylapo harbour, Penas village 108 ; point Mita, Tres Marietas, Corventena rock 109; San Bias 110; Isabel island, Maria islands 115 — 116; Santiago river, Asadero Estero, Camichin Estero, Boca Tecapan, Chamatla river 117 ; Barron river 118 ; Mazatlan 118 — 122. Gulf of California — General remarks 123—126 ; Piastla river, Elota river, Boca Tavala, Culiacan river 127 ; Altata 128 ; Playa Colorado 129 ; Boca Navachista, Topolobampo, point San Ignacio, San Ignacio Farallone 131 ; Ahome river, Agiabampo, Santa Barbara bay 132 ; Ciaris and Lobos islands 133 ; Guaymas 134 ; Ensenada de San Francisco 136 ; San Pedro point, San Pedro Nolasco, San Pedro Martir, liino bay. Pelican island, Tiburon island 137 ; cape Tepopa, Patos island, cape Lobos, cape Tepoca, George island 138; Rocky and Shoal points, port Isabel, Colorado river 139; San Felipe 143 ; Consag rock, San Luis island, San Luis Gonzales bay, Angel de la Guardia, Puerto Refugio 144; Remedios bay, Angeles bay, Las Animas bay, San Rafael bay, San Gabriel point, San Lorenzo, &c. 145 ; cape San Miguel, Trinidad point, cape Virgenes 146 ; San Marcos island, San Lucas cove, Tortuga island, Santa Agueda point, Purgatorio 147 ; Santa Inez point, Mulege or Concepcion bay 148 ; Pulpito point, Mangle point 149 ;• Coronados island, Loreto 150 ; Punta Coyote, Car- men island, Salinas bay 151 ; Danzante island, San Marcial point, Santa Catalina island, Montserrate island, Nopolo point 152 ; Mechudo head, Saa Josef island, Amortajada bay, San Francisco island. Las Animas, San Diego island and Santa Cruz islands 153; Espiritu Santo island, San Lorenzo chan- nel 154 ; La Paz bay, Pichilinque harbour. La Paz harbour 155 ; Ventana bay, Ceralbo island 156; Muertos bay, Palmas bay, San Jose del Cabo bay 157;. Pa,lmia point, Cabeza Ballena, cape San Lucas 158; San Lucas bay 159. Cape S^vn Lucas to Point Concepcion — General remarks 160; La Tinaja, San Pedro, Todos Santos, Santa Marina bay, Santa Margarita island 161; Magdalena bay 162; cape San Lazaro, point San Juanico, Ballenas bay 165; Asuncion bay, San Roque point, point San Pablo 167; San Pablo bay, San Cristobal bay, San Bartolome, Kelp point 168; point San Eugenio, Cerros island 169; San Benito islands 170; Nativi- dad island, Dewey channel, Sebastian Viscaino bay 171 — 174 ; Lagoon head 172 ; Santa Rosalia bay, Playa Maria bay, Blanco point and bay 174 ; Sacra- mento reef, San Geronimo, Rosario bay 175; port San Quentin, San Martin island 176; San Ramon bay, Colnett bay, Santo Tomas anchorage (south of point Soledad), Todos Santos bay and islands 177; Descanso bay. Boundary Monument (between Mexico and U.S.), Coronados islets 178; point Loma, San Diego 179; False bay, San Luis Rey 182; San Juan Capistrano, Anaheim, point Fermin, San Pedro 183; Santa Anna lagoon 184; Monica bay, port Hueneme, San Buenaventura 185; Santa Barbara 186; point Concepcion 188., viii. CONTENTS, The Islands of California — Cortez bank 190; San Clementel91 ; Santa Catalina, Pandora cove, Raper bay 192 ; Santa Barbara island, San Nicolas, Begg rock, Anacapa 193 ; Santa Cruz, Anacapa bay 194 ; Santa Rosa, Becber bay 195 ; San Miguel, Cuyler harbour, Richardson rock, &c. 196. Point Concepoion to Point Reyes — Point Sal anchorage, San Luis Obispo bay 197 ; Esteros bay 198 ; San Simeon bay, Piedras Blancas 199 ; Carmel bay 200 ; point Pinos, Monterey bay 201 ; Santa Cruz harbour 204 ; Santa Cruz point 205 : Pigeon point, Half-Moon bay20G; point San Pedro 207; San Francisco bay 208 — 217; point Bonita 208; point Lobos, Fort point 209 ; Golden Gate 210 ; Alcatraz island 211 ; Yerba Buena, Angel island, Saucelito 213 ; San Pablo bay, East Brother and Mare islands 214 ; Ballenas bay 217 ; Drake bay, point Reyes 218. The Farallones — South Farallon 219 ; Middle Farallon, North Farallones 220 ; Noonday rock 221. J*oiNT Reyes to Cape Classet — Fort Ross, Haven anchorage, point Arena 224 ; Albion river, Mendocino bay 225 ; Shelter cove 226 ; cape Mendocino 227 ; cape Fortune (False Mendo- cino), Eel river, Sugar Loaf or Haystack 228 ; Humboldt bay 229 ; Trinidad head 230 ; Trinidad bay 231 ; Redding rock, Klamath river, Crescent City bay 232; point St. George, Crescent City rocks. Pelican bay 234 ; Chet-ko cove, Mack reef 235 ; Rogues river, Rogues River reef, port Orford 236 ; Elk river 237 ; Cape Orford and reef 238 ; Coquille river 239 ; cape Arago or Gregory 240; Koos bay 241 ; Umpquah river 242 ; Haceta head, cape Perpetua 243 ; Alseya river, Yaquina river 244 ; Yaquina point 245 ; cape Foulweather 246 ; Nekas river, Cascade head 247 ; cape Lookout, cape Meares 248 ; Tillamook bay 249 ; Nehalem river 250; cape Falcon or False Tillamook, Tillamook head 251 ; point Adams, cape Disappointment 252 ; Columbia river 253 — 9 ; Sand island 255 ; Baker bay. Young bay 256 ; Astoria 257 ; Shoalwater bay 259 ; Gray harbour 262 ; Copalis river, point Grenville 264 ; Destruction island 266 ; Flattery rocks 267 ; Tatoosh island 268 ; Duncan and Duntze rocks, cape Classet (or Flattery) 269. ^TRAiT OF Juan de Fuca — General remarks on and directions for the Strait 270—6 ; Nee-ah bay 276 ; Cal- 1am bay. Pillar point 278 ; Freshwater bay, port Angelos 279 ; New Dungeness bay 281 ; Washington harbour, Protection island, port Discovery 283 ; point Wilson 285 ; San Juan bay 286 ; Sooke inlet. Secretary island, Becher bay 288 ; Bentinck island, Race islands 289; Pedder bay, Parry bay 290 ; Esqui- CONTENTS. ix. malt harbour 291 ; Victoria harboui: 292 ; Brotchy ledge 294 ; Trial islands, Enterprize channel 295 ; Gonzales point, Oak bay, Cadboro bay, Mayor channel 296 ; Chain islets, Discovery and Chatham islands, Hecate and Plumper passages 297 ; Baignes channel 298 ; Constance and Fonte banks 299. Admiralty Inlet, Puget Sound, and Hood Canal — Smith island 299 ; Admiralty inlet 800 — 7 ; Wilson point, port Townshend 301 ; Admiralty head 302 ; point No-point, ports Madison and Orchard 304 ; Duwamish bay 305 ; Commencement bay, the Narrows, Puget sound 307 ; Steilacoom, Nisqually, Olympia 308 ; Hood canal, port Ludlow, port Gamble 309 ; additional remarks on Puget sound 311, Possession Sound and Anchorages — Whidbey island, Fidalgo island, Deception passage 312 • Possession sounds port Susan, port Gardiner, Penn coye 313 ; Va,noouYer's renaarks on Penr^ cove 314. Hard or San Juan Archipelago — Boundary line (of British and American territory), Haro strait 815 ; Eosaria strait 317 ; Alden bank, general remarks on currents, &c, 321. Gulf of Georgia — Ea.stern side to Burrard inlet — Belliugham bay 322 ; Birch bay, Drayton harbour, Semi-ah-Moo bay, point, Roberts 323 ; Eraser river 324 ; New Westminster 326 ; Derby or Ne\vr Langley, North Fork, Burrard inlet 327 ; point Atkinson 328. South-west Coast of Vancouver Island — General remarks on Vancouver island 328 — 834 :• cape Beale 834 ; Barclay- sound 385 ; Clayoquot sound 337 : Refuge cove, Hesquiat harbour 889 ; Nootka sound 340 ; Friendly cove, Marvinas bay 841 ; Plumper harbour, Resolution cove. Deserted creek, Head bay 342 ; Nuchatlitz inlet, Esperanza inlet 344 ; Kyuquot sound 847 ; Barrier islands, Ou-ou-kinsh and Nasparti inlets 348 ; Brooks peninsula, cape Cook, Brooks bay 349 ; Quatsino sound 350 ; Forward inlet, Koprino harbour 352 ; San Josef bay, Sea Otter cove,, cape Scott 855 ; Scott islands 856. Coast of British Columbia north of Vancouvsr Island — Queen Charlotte sound, Shadwell passage, Pine and Storm islands 357 ; Sealed passage, cape Caution, Sea Otter group 858 ; Blunden bay. Iron rocks, Egg- island and rocks, Smith sounds 360 ; Alexandra passage, Beaver pass£^ge,j Table X. CONTENTS. island, &c. 361 ; Long point, Barrier islands, Takush harbour 362 ; Smith inlet, FitzHugh sound, Cranstown point 363 ; cape Calvert, Schooner Betreat, Joachin island. Frigate bay 364 ; Safety cove 365 ; Kwakshua passage. Gold- stream harbour, Namu harbour, 366 ; Burke channel, port John, Lama passage 367 ; Cooper inlet, McLaughlin bay 368 ; Bella Bella islands, Klick-tso-atli harbour, Ka-Koosh-dish creek, Gunboat passage, Seaforth channel, Kynumpt harbour 369 ; Millbank sound and Finlayson channel 370 ; Carter bay, Graham and Fraser reaches. Home bay, Grenville chq,nnel 371 ; Stewart harbour, port Simpson 372 ; Dixon soand 373. Queen Charloite Islands — -. General remarks 373 — 7 ; cape St. James, Houston Stewart channel 377 ; Rose harbour, Cumshcwas harbour, Skidegate harbour and' channel 378 ; Masset harbour, Virago sound 380 ; Parry passage 381 ; Hippa island, Inskip channel, Moore channel 382 ; Mitchell and Gold harbour, Douglas harbour, Tasso harbour 383 ; geographical positions 384. TERRITORY OF Alaska — General remarks 384—8 ; fort Tongas, Wrangle 388 ; Sitka sound 388—397 ; Biorka island, Symonds bay 393 ; Vitskari island, Kulitch rock, Zeuobia rock, Moknatoi island 394 ; Eckholm island, Pritchard shoals, &c., Keene rock. Whiting harbour, Jamestown bay 395 ; Survey group 396 ; changes in names of principal islands in Sitka sound 397. Jslands and Rocks off the coasts of Central America and California — Cocos island 398 ; Chatham bay. Wafer bay 400 ; Malpelo island, Clipperton rock 401 ; Revillagigedo islands, Socorro 403 ; San Benedicto island, Roca Partida 404; Clarion, Alijos rocks, Guadaloupe 405; Reed rocks or Falmouth phoal 406, APPENDIX, Winds on the Western Coast of America and in the Pacific 407 — 418 General Remarks on Passages to various Ports, &c. ... 418 — 423 Passages to and from various Ports in the Pacific ... 423 — 430 San Francisco Harbour Regulations, &c., &c. ... ... 430 — 437 Regulations for preventing Collisions at Sea ... ... 438 — 441 Tide Tables ... ... ... ... ... ... 442—444 Tables of Geographical Positions ... ... ... 445 — 453 CONTENTS. LIST OF PLATES, :::t 71 n 177 183 San Francisco Bay ... ... ... ... ... To face Title^ Panama Road ... ... ... ... ... ... ,, patje 16 Libertad Port Culebra ... ... ... .,, Salina Oruz Road... San Jose Road ... ... Maldonado ... .... ' ••• ••• ••• ••• » 92 Mazatlan ... ... ... ... ... ... ,, 118 Salinas Bay ••• .-. .... ... .... .... >> 151 San Lorenzo Channel ... ... ... ... ... ,, 154 San Jose del Cabo ... ... ... ... ... ,, 157 San Lucas Bay ... ... ... ... ... ... ,, 159 Magdalena Bay ... ... ... ... ... ... ,, 162 Ensenada Anchorage Santo Tomas Anchorage ... ... ... ... Point Sal Anchorage ... ... ..." San Pedro Anchorage ... ... ... ... Santa Barbara ... ... ... ... ... ... „ 18G Cortez Bank ... ... ... ... ... ... ,, 19Q RaperBay, &c. ... ... ... ... ... ... „ 192 Monterey Bay ... ... ... ... ... ... ,, 201 Half-Moon Bay ... ... ... ... ... ... „ 206 Bodega, Somales and Drake BayS; ... ... ... ... ,, 222, Mendocino Bay ... ... ... ... ... ... ,, 225 Trinidad Bay ... ... ... ... ... ... „ 231 Crescent City ... ... ... ... ... ... „ 232, Chetko Cove ... ... ... ... ... ... „ 235 Mack Reef ... ... ... ... ... ... „ 236 Cape Orford Sacramento Reef ... Hunter Cove ... ... ... ... ... ... „ 240 Socorro Island and Braithwaite Bay ... ... ... ... ,, 403 Guadaloupe Island Alijos Rocks ... ... ... ... ... ... [ „ 405 Roca Partida 23a LIGHTS. The following is a complete list of the Lights shown at this date, December 1st. 1880, within the limits of the Navigation described in this work. As a full description of them is given in the pages mentioned, it is unnecessary to add more detailed par- ticulars : — Panama PAOE. 16 Punta Arenas . . . Port Corinto (Realejo) Port La Union . . Libertad .... Acajutla or Sonsonate San Jose de Guatemala A smsiW Jixed red light, on end of railway pier A small Jixed n-hite light, on San Jose rock (occasionally) 18 A f^maW fixed light 47 On Cardon island. Fixed; visible 15 miles . . 59. Fixed : visible 8 miles 05 Fixed; visible 7 miles 71 Fixed {red to southward, green to northwai'd and u-liite between) ; visible 7 miles 74 , On custom-house. Fixed; visible 10 miles. Doubtful 77 Mazatlan On Creston island. Fixed; visible 20 miles (See Addenda) 118, On point Loma. Fixed; visible 25 miles . . 179 Flashes [red and. tvliite) every 10 seconds; visi- ble 19 miles 183. Fixed and flashing; visible 12 miles . . . . 185 Fixed; visible 17 miles 186 , Revolves every half minute; visible 23 miles. Steam fog- whistle 188:. Fixed (fash every 15 seconds); visible 19 miles 199. On point Pinos. Fixed; visible 15 miles . . 201 Fixed ; visible 14 miles 205, Flashes every 10 seconds ; visible 18 miles. Fog-whistle 206 Fog-whistle 206 , Fog-whistle 207 , On point Bonita. FwW ; visible 18 miles. Fog- trumpet . . 208 On Fort Point. Fixed (with red flashes) ; visible 15 miles. Fog-bell 210, Alcatraz island. J«'u-ef/; visible 11 miles. Fog-bell 2H San Diego . Point Fermin Point Hueneme Santa Barbara Concepcion Point . Piedras Blancas Point Monterey Bay . . . Santa Cruz . . . . Pigeon Point . . Ano Nuevo Island Montara Point . San Francisco Bay LIGHTS. San Francisco Bay Point Reyes South Farallon . . Point Arena . . . Cape Mendocino . . Humboldt Bay . . . Trinidad Head . . . Crescent City . Cape Orford (Blanco) Cape Arago (Gregory) Yaquina Point (Headj Tillamook Rock Columbia River . . Shoalwater Bay . . Cape Classet (Flattery) Ediz Hook . . New Dungeness Point Wilson . Race Islands Esquimalt Harbour Victoria Harbour . Smith Island . . Admiralty Head Point No-Point Fraser River . . Burrard Inlet . Nanaimo Harbour Cape Beale. i . PAGE. Yerba Buena. Fixed; visible 15 miles. Fog- vs'histle 213 On E. Brother island. Flashes every 30 seconds ; visible 13 miles. Fog-trumpet .... 214 On Mare island. F/a-^tZ; visible 14 miles. Fog-bell 214 Flashes, every 5 seconds ; visible 14 miles. Fog- whistle 219 Flashes every minute ; visible 26 miles. Fog-siren 220 Fixed; visible 19 miles. Fog-whistle . . . 224 Revolves (flash 15 seconds, eclipse 15 seconds) ; visible 27 miles . 228 Fixed; visible 12 miles. Fog-whistle . . . 229 Fixed (flash red every minute) ; visible 17 miles 23l Fixed [flash every 1^ minutes); visible 15 miles 233 Fixed; visible 23 miles 238 Fixed {flash every 2 minutes); visible 15 miles . 240 Fixed; visible 19 miles. (See Addenda) . . 245 Liffht intended : . 251 On point Adams. Flashes (red and white) ; visible 16 miles. Fog-whistle 252 On cape Disappointment. Fixed; visible 22 miles. Fog-bell . . . i 258 On Toke point. Fixed (flash every 2 minutes) ; visible 14 miles 260 On Tatoosh island. Fixed, visible 20 miles. Steam fog-whistle 268 Fixed; visible 12 miles .-..,... 280 Fixed; visible 14 miles. Steam fog-whistle . 282 Fixed; visible 12 miles. Steam fog-whistle . 285 Flashes every 10 seconds ; visible 18 miles. Fog-bell 290 On Fisgard island. Fixed (ichite and red sectors); visible 10 miles 291 On Berens island. A small blue light . . . 293 Pievolves every half-minute ; visible 15 miles . . 299 Fixed ; visible 17 miles 303 Fixed ; visible 10 miles 304 Lightvessel at entrance. Fixed; visible 11 miles 324 On point Atkinson. Revolves every minute ; visible 15 miles 328 On Entrance island. Fixed ; visible 14 miles . 331 Revolves every 30 seconds ; visible 19 miles . . 334 ADDENDA. During the progress oiP this Work through the press the following corrections and additions became necessary : — itEON. — The population of the city of Leon is about 35,000 not 3500 as given in text. Page 60. !tA XTNiOfi. — The light at La Union, San Salvador, is located on the end of the wharf, and not on the Commandant's house. Page 05. AiKCArAi.A. — A white buoy now guards the shoal situated 4 cables north-west of the north-west point of Tigre island. Page 68. XicniFA SHOAL. — The following information relating to a shoal on the coast of Salvador, known as Lempa shoal, and considered doubtful as regai-ds its position, has been received by the U.S. Hydrographic Office from Commander J. W. Philip, U.S.N., commanding U.S.S. Tuscarora, (1880) : — This shoal (centre) lies in lat. 18" 7' and long. 88° 30'*, and forms a bar off the mouth of Jiguilisco bay. It extends in the form of a horse-shoe across the mouth of the bay, from side to side, and its outer edge or bend lies about 4 miles from the beach. At high water in calm weather, or with light breezes, the bar is perfectly smooth, but at all other times the sea breaks heavily all over the shoal. The following bearings were taken from the Tuscarora just outside the breakers : — San Miguel volcano N. 26" E.; San Vincente volcano N. 43° W. ; San Salvador volcano N. 55° W. Page 60. MAZATLAKT. — A lighthouse has recently been erected on Creston island at the entrance to the bay of Mazatlan ; it exhibits ajixed tvhite light, visible 20 miles. Its approximate geographical position is lat. 23° 10' 36", long. 106° 27'. ^ Page 118. ANo MtTEVO isLAWD.— The fog-signal at Auo Nuevo island, in lat. 37° 6' 42", long. 122° 19' 51" has been altered in character. In future it will give a blast of 10 seconds duration, followed by an interval of 55 seconds. Page 206. SOTTTH FARAz.Lorr. — A steam-siren has been established at a station about 200 yards S. 31° E. from the lighthouse on South Farallon. During fog it will be sounded for 5 seconds at intervals of 45 seconds. Page 220. TIMBER GUZ.CH. — Commander W. Coffin, U.S.S. Hassler, reports a dangerous patch of foul ground off the entrance of Timber gulch, 2i miles E.S.E. of fort Ross, California. The patch lies from one-half to three-quarters of a mile from the shore, and contains * According; to this longitude of the shoal, the approximate position of Port Jiguilisco given in text is about 12 minutes too far east. ADDENDA. xv several rocky heads — one nearly awash at low water, others with fi-om 8 to 15 feet water, with 4 to 6 fathoms between them, and 9 fathoms close at hand, outside. At the time of the survey, October 1879, kelp, extending out from the shore, covered the westernmost half of the patch. It is not often these rocks are marked by breakers^ their area being small. Thirty fathoms of water are occasionally found in this vicinity within half a mile of the rockSj and it is dangerous for vessels coasting to pass inside that depths Page 223* VAQViNA POINT. — The latitude of Yaquina point lighthouse given in text is incorrect ; according to the latest U.S. List of Lights it should be 44° 43' 30 "i Page 245. coi.ir»iBXA RIVER. — The following information as to the state of the Columbia river bar is furnished by Lloyd's Agents at Portland, Oregon, under date April 29th 1880, in consequence of a report having got abroad that the bar is shoaling : — There arte always 25 feet at high water at this time, upon the shoalest parts of the bar of the South channel ; and the bar being smooth, a vessel drawing 22^ feet can cross out; This channel has been shoaling a little ; but these shoal areas, arising from sand lumps of recent deposit, must wash out in the month of June, when the Columbia river will be much swollen, or a new opening must be formed, somewhat to the northward and west- ward of the present outlet. It is in consequence of this shoaling that the North channel has been used more, pilots preferring to cross in smooth water the shoal eastward of Sand island rather than Cross the more exposed parts at the entrance of the South channel. The South channel is crooked, and a vessel is much longer in going out than by the North channel. In the inside of the North channel there are always 22 feet at high water in the shoalest parts across the shoal east of Sand island, but during spring tides this depth is increased to from 22^ feet to 23 feet. To the north-eastward of this shoal to cape Disappointment, following the line of the channel, there are from 26 feet to 28 feet. Farther seaward, along this channel, the water deepens rapidly to from 30 to 35 feet, until the bar proper is crossed. Note. — The latitudes of the lighthouses on point Adams and cape Disappointment given in text are uncertain; according to the latest (1880) U.S. List of Lights the lat. of point Adams lighthouse is 46° 11' 86" and of cape Disappointment lighthouse 46° 16' 33". Page 253. x:sQuizaAi.T harbour. — Thetis cottage, one of the objects forming the leading inark for entering Esquimalt harbour, has been demolished during recent heavy falls of snow. As a substitute a wooden beacon has been erected on Dyke point ; it is 23 feet above high water, pyramidal in shape and painted ichite. Note. — Dyke point beacon just open of, or in line with, the Western Inskip rock, bearing N. by W. | W., leads in mid-channel to Esquimalt harbour. Page 291. December 1st, 1880. U.S. BUOYAGE; in bohformity to the terms of the Act of Congress approved Septemher 28th, 185dj prescribing the manner of colouring and numbering the buoys along the coasts and irl the bays, sounds, rivers, and harbours of the United States, the following order must be observed, viz. : — 1. In approaching the channel, &c., from seaward, red buoys, with even numbers j will be found on the starboard side of the channel, and must be left on the starboard hand in passing in. 2. in approaching the channel, &c., from seaward, black buoys, with odd numbersi will be found on the port side of the channel, and must be left on the port hand ill passing in. 8. Buoys painted with red and black horizontal stripes will be found on obstruc- tions, with channel ways on either side of them, and may be left on either side in passing in. 4. Buoys painted with white and black perpendicular stripes will be found in mid^ channel, and must be passed close-to, to avoid danger. 5. All other distinguishing marks to buoys will be in addition to the foregoing; and may be employed to mark particular spots. 6. Perches, with balls, cages, &c., will, when placed on buoys, be at turning points/ the colour and number indicating on what side they shall be passed* XTU. ADDENDA No. II. [October 1st, 1881.] SAN aEBONXMO ISLET and SACRAMEXTTO BESF. — Described in page 175. Refer to the chart of this locality facing page 238. SAN FEDBO or WZZ.MXN6TON. — The following additional instructions for the port of San Pedro, Lower California, have recently been published * : — Vessels bound to San Pedro may either pass through the Santa Barbara channel or outside the islands. The former course is, on the whole, preferable, especially in the summer season, when the prevalent north-west winds blow home along the coast. The channel is at all times more free from fog than the space between and around the islands, and as the coast is bold, well-lighted, and free from outlying dangers, the passage is a safe one. In the autumn and winter months the north-west winds do not blow in the channel, calms and light airs from the southward being common ; then a vessel can take the outside route, passing to the northward of Catalina island. Point Firmin may be rounded by large vessels at the distance of a mile, and then steering for Deadman's island (El Moro) preserve this distance from the bluff until the light on point Firmin (see text) bears S.W., when the anchor may be let go in 6 fathoms. It is not advisable for a large vessel to anchor closer in ; small vessels, or steamers of light draught, can anchor within half a mile of the beach in 4 fathoms, or even cross the bar at high water, and anchor abreast the village of San Pedro ; but this should only be attempted in vessels drawing less than 15 feet, and with local assistance. In the roads the bottom is sandy ooze, and good holding ground ; but there are large patches of rock, generally shown by the kelp, which sometimes grows in 20 or 30 fathoms of water, but always over a foul bottom. As the roadstead is open to all winds between S.E. and S.W., vessels lying here in the winter months (November to March) should be prepared to slip in the event of a south-easter springing up. Vessels discharge their cargoes into large lighters, which carry from 100 to 200 tons, and are towed to and from Wilmington by a steamer. Extra hands, or a steam winch for working cargo, can be hired at Wilmington. Supplies of all sorts are good, and very cheap. The harbour is an extensive shallow inlet, the entrance to which has been increased to a depth of 17 feet at high water by a breakwater, as yet incomplete ; but the extent of deep water inside the bar is limited. The channel from the entrance to the town, 3 miles above, is shallow and intricate, winding between extensive mud-flats, dry at low water ; it is only used by a few small steamers and the smallest class of coasters. At Wilmington (or New San Pedro) the Southern Pacific Railway Co. have a large wharf and depot, and here goods and passengers are embarked for the coasting steamers, which call here twice a week on their way from San Francisco to San Diego. The distance by rail from Wilmington to the capital, Los Angeles, is 21 miles, the line passing through a rich and populous agricultural country. Page 184. SANTA CBxrz. — The light at Santa Cruz is uo^ fixed red. Page 205 and List of Lights, page XII. TXI.Z.AMOOK Z.XOHT. — The lighthouse on Tillamook rock consists of a square white tower rising from a rectangular dwelling, which has a fog-signal house attached to its westward side. The lantern and dome are painted red. The light (flashing • Abridged from information fumiahed to the Nautical Magazine (Dec. No. 1880) by E. J. Molony, ship British Merchant, xviii ADDENDA No. II. every 5 seconds) is 48 feet above the base of the tower, and 136 feet above mean sea- level ; it is visible about 17 miles from all parts of the sea horizon, but the range of visibility upon safe water is between the bearings from it of N.N.W. ^ W. westward to S. by E. J E. Its approximate geographical position is lat. 45° 56' 11" N., long. 124° 1' 12" W. From it cape Disappointment light is distant 20 miles N.W. by N. f N. ; point Adams light 15 miles N. by W. f W. ; and Falcon rock, off False Tillamook head, lOj miles S.E. by S. f S. The rock upon which the lighthouse stands is about a mile from the mainland, and there is an isolated rock (just above water) about midway between it and Tillamook head. Close to each rock the least depth is 15 fathoms; at half a mile to seaward of the lighthouse rock it is 27 to 30 fathoms, and at a mile 34 fathoms. The passage between the lighthouse and the shore should not be attempted by strangers, the currents being strong and variable. Vessels approaching Columbia river from southward can pass in safety within half a mile of Tillamook rock, but it should not be brought to bear to the northward of N.N.W. i W. After passing the rock at this distance they should keep to seaward of a line drawn from Tillamook light to cape Disappointment light, and navigate with extra care as the bar of the river is approached, to avoid being caught among the out- lying shoals. Fog-siren. — The fog-siren at Tillamook lighthouse gives blasts of 5 seconds duration, at intervals of 1^ minutes. It is worked by steam. Pages 251 and XIII. COZ.VIMCBIA RIVER. — The light at Adams point, south shore of the river, is now fixed red. The fog-signal has been discontinued. Pages 252 and XIII. The automatic signal-buoy, formerly moored off the entrance of South channel, Columbia river, is now moored off the North channel, 2f miles from the bar, in 15 fathoms water. Page 254. The fog-bell hitherto stationed on the bluff in advance of cape Disappointment light- house is discontinued. Pages 253 and XIII. POINT RE'SES tioHT-STATiON. — The stoam-whistle at Point Reyes lighthouse has been superseded by a steam-siren, giving blasts of 5 seconds duration at intervals of 70 seconds. Pages 219 and XIII. ACAFUI.CO. — The fixed white light which is occasionally exhibited from the summit of Roqueta or Grifo island, at the entrance of the harbour of Acapulco, is about 350 feet above high water and visible 15 to 20 miles. This light is maintained by the Pacific Mail Steamship Co. ; it is only shown when one of their ships is expected. Geographical Position. — According to a recent plan of Acapulco, published by the U.S. Hydrof/raphic Office, the position of fort San Diego, on the east side of the town, is lat. 16" 50' 50" N., long. 99" 55' 48" W. Page 94. SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. *** The Bearings and Courses throughout this Work are Magnetic. The Depths are those at low water spring tides. The Distances are in Nautical miles of 60 to a Degree of Latitude. The Nautical Mile is about 6086 English feet, iisually reckoned as 6000 = 2000 yards^lOOO fathoms: also the Nautical Mile=lQ55 metres = l'855 kilometres. N.B.— As the Latitudes in this work are North of the Equator, and the Longitudes are West of Greenwich, the distinctive letters N. and W. are smitted. GENERAL REMARKS ON CENTRAL AMERICA. Central America includes all the territory lying between Mexico on the north, and the isthmus of Panama, on the south. In length 700 miles, and of very variable breadth, it nevertheless contains 164,900 English square miles. It has a population of about 2,600,000, about a quarter of whom are whites (creoles of European parentage), the 'remainder Indians and Mestizoes, of mixed descent. Situated in the torrid zone, between latitudes 8° and 18°, longitudes 81^° and 93°, it at once separates the Atlantic from the Pacific ocean, and unites the continents of North and South America ; a position as important commercially, as it is geographically remarkable and unique. It includes the independent states of Guatemala, San Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua,* and Costa Rica, with the British colony of Belize, or British Honduras. It is bounded on the north by Mexico ; on the south-west by the Pacific ; and on the east by the Caribbean sea, and the bay of Honduras. • The Mosquito territory, formerly under British protection, is now included in the state of Nicaragua. 2 CENTRAL AMERICA. The five states of Central America nearly correspond, at the present time, with the " lutendencias," as they existed under Spanish Colonial rule. Their boundaries are pretty clearly defined, and vary hut little. They are subdivided into departments, and districts ; the latter applying to the less peopled, though often extensive tracts, covered ■with almost impenetrable forests. The State of Guatemala includes a considerable and populous highland district to the south and west, while to the northward, vast territories, such as those of Vera Paz and El Peten, are but thinly inhabited. It has the largest population (nearly 1,200.000), and far surpasses the other states in importance. Its trade, which is con- siderable, is almost entirely confined to its port in the gulf of Honduras on the Atlantic side. The principal port on the Pacific coast is San Jose de Guatemala, which is an open roadstead of some importance. The exports are numerous, consisting chiefly of cotton, wheat, cocoa, sugar, cofi'ee, indigo, metals, mahogany, and cochineal. In 1878 the imports amounted to £619,000, and the exports to £900,000. Great efforts are being made to improve the agricultural resources of the country, which are naturally wonderfully rich, yet the wheat crop of 1878 failed, and the Government was forced to reduce the duty on imported grain by one-half. Coffee cultivation is being largely extended, and liberal terms are offered to immigi*ants to settle in the country and introduce permanent improvements in the way of irrigation works, roads, &c. Attempts are being made to open the oil deposits on the Atlantic coast in the neighbourhood of the Lampara and St. Vincent rivers. New Guatemala, the capital, is in lat. 14° 41', long. 90" 3G' ; the old city was abandoned on account of earthquakes. New Guatemala, though a comparatively mean looking place of one storied houses, may on many accounts be considered as the prin- cipal town in Central America. It is situated on the border of one of the elevated plateaux of the main Cordillera, known as Los Llanos de las Vacas, (the valley of Harmita). This plain is surrounded by bold ranges of mountains, among which stand prominent the two lofty volcanoes of A//ua and Fuer/o, and -a third known as El Volcan de Pacaya, which is scarcely, if at all, inferior to them. The plain is about 5000 feet above the level of the sea, and is 15 miles wide and 18 broad. The climate, though considered inferior to that of Antigua or old Guatemala, is mild and salubrious. The thermometer rarely rises above 70° Fahr., and still more rarely descends below 64°. The number of inhabitants, who are chiefly Ladinos, the mixed or Mestizo race, and pure Creole Spaniards, the unmixed descendants of Spanish colonists, is estinjated at 40,000 ; and in importance and wealth, it is second, in Spanish America, only to the city of Mexico. The State of San Salvador is situated on the western coast. Its climate is hot, but more healthy than that on the eastern shores — perhaps because the land is better cleared and cultivated. The chief products of this state are indigo, coffee, sugar, and tobacco. The city of San Salvador, its capital, only a few miles distant from the Pacific ocean, was nearly destroyed by an earthquake in 1854, prior to which it con- tained 20,000 inhabitants ; but it is now reviving ; during a short period it was the seat of the Federal Union, and like Washington, it had at that time a certain territory around the city, distinguished as the Federal District. Cojutepeque is an important CENTRAL AMERICA. 3 town with 15,000 iuhabitants, and Sonsonate with 10,000 inhabitants is famous for its distilleries. The principal seaports are La Union, Acajutla, and Libertad ; the first named is a fine harbour, but the others are mere open roadsteads. In 1876 the imports amounted to £T-21,005, and the exports to £B73,817. The state of Honduras takes its name from the bay of Honduras, (signifying depths), which forms its northern boundary. The first navigators so denominated it, because they with difiiculty obtained soundings in it. The surface of the gi'ound is, in this state, even more generally uneven than elsewhere. Its population is scanty in com- parison with the two former states ; and, like Guatemala, it still comprises vast districts of virgin forests, partially peopled by Indians. The climate, like that of the other states, is varied, being generally temperate in the interior, which is notable for its mines, — and hot near the coasts, which abound with rivers, from the banks of which much mahogany and sarsaparilla are obtained. Comayagua (formerly Valladolid), the capital, is a city of some importance, with 8,000 inhabitants. This state possesses two sea-ports, Truxillo and Omoa, which were active as military and commercial depots of Spain, but are now fallen into comparative decay. Tegucigalpa has gold, silver and copper mines in its vicinity. The state of Micaragua is exceedingly fertile, and generally salubrious ; but, not- withstanding its possessing several advantages over Honduras, it is but little more populous. This may partly be accounted for by the absence of any leading branch of industry, or any considerable activity in its commerce, but still more by its frequent civil wars. In a land surpassingly volcanic, this state is pre-eminently so, Managua, possessing a population variously stated between 0,000 and 12,000, is the present (1878) capital and seat of Government ; but Leon, the former capital, with an esti- mated population of 25,000, is the largest city. These large cities once enjoyed great wealth and commercial prosperity ; but, like all chief towns in Central America, they have suflered much from crime and consequent internal disorganization, as well as from civil wars, political commotions and misrule. They are now in consequence little better than ruins, scantily inhabited, and, where best, affording abundant evidence of both earlier and more recent devastations. Leon, between lake Managua and the Pacific, is said to have contained at one time 32,000 people. Granada, one of the oldest cities in Central America, has about 10,000 inhabitants ; it is beautifully situ- ated on the north-west shore of the lake Nicaragua. The town of Nicaragua, about 36 miles south-east of Granada, though inferior in size and importance, gives its name to the state and the lake. Like Granada, it is advantageously situated on its banks, opposite the populous island of Ometepec, which is in the lake, and contains an active volcano. Great interest at present attaches to this state and its waters, in connection with the long formed and often talked-of project of connecting the Atlantic and Pacific oceans at this point. Costa Rica, the Central America state which at present enjoys the greatest degree of tranquility and political prosperity, lies to the southward of Nicaragua. Its isolated position on the narrower part of the isthmus of Panama, making communication with the other states difficult, has preserved it in a great measure from participating in the wars that have desolated the rest of the country ; a circumstance which, conjointly b2 4 CENTRAL AMERICA. with a great accession of commercial vigour, arising out of the successful cultivation of cofTee, has given it of late an impluse unknown to the sister states. It also yields gold, silver, tobacco, sarsaparilla, indigo, sugar, cocoa, and dye-woods, &c. While other large cities have been decaying, San Jose, its new capital, has risen into importance within a very few years, and already numbers upwards of 80,000 inhabitants. Cartago, the former capital, and two other towns of some magnitude (Heredia and Alajuela) occupy with the modern capital, an extensive table-land stretching almost across the isthmus. These towns, together with two or three small ports on each ocean, include almost the entire population (150,000) of this compact and thriving state. Lakes. — The principal lake in Central America is that of Nicaragua, whose surplus waters descend to the Atlantic by the river San Juan del Norte. It is an inland sea 90 miles long N.W. to S.E., and about 40 miles broad. In many places the water is 10 to 15 fathoms deep, and it is stated that there are but few shallows. It contains a small archipelago of islands, and on one fertile and populous island, named Ometepec, there is a volcano. This lake is also connected with that called Managua, itself no inconsiderable body of water. The shores of these magnificent lakes, which are likely to afford important facilities for commerce, are of surpassing fertility, and as salubrious as they are beautiful. It is from the lake of Nicaragua that the canal is proposed to be cut, connecting the lake with the port of San Juan del Sur, on the Pacific. Mountains. — Not far from the westei'n or Pacific coast, the country is traversed from north-west to south-east by a continuous Cordillera or unbroken chain of mountaans, unbroken at least as far as the lake of Nicaragua, which are covered with diversified vegetation. This forms a kind of connecting chain between the rocky mountains of the North, and the Andes of the South American continent. Some of the loftiest sum- mits are 12,000 feet high. Frequent spurs or offsets from the "Sierra Madre," the main ridge, intersect the plains at right angles, and sometimes extend to the sea shore. At various degrees of elevation along the sides and on the summits of the mountains are numerous plateaux or table-lands, like so many natural terraces, some of them of great extent, and all delightfully temperate and luxuriantly fertile. These regions especially seem to invite the residence of man, and to invite the culture of his hand. They constitute a distinguishing feature of this and some neighbouring countries. But none of these countries, and pi'obably no part of the earth, presents a greater diversity of level on a surface of equal extent than does Central America ; consequently, no country possesses such variety of climate, or offers such facilities of adaptation to all kinds of productions and to all constitutions of men, from the sun-burnt inhabitants of a tropical plain, to the hardy mountaineer inured to perpetual snows. Most of the highest peaks and isolated mountains are volcanoes. The rocks are of gi'anite, gneiss, and basalt ; but volcanic formations and ejections predominate. Not less than thirty volcanic vents are said to be still in activity. The traces of remote, as well as recent earthquakes, are clearly discernible in the fissures and ravines that everywhere abound. Extinct craters, rent rocks, beds of lava, scoria), vitrified, charred, and pumice stones, together with hot and sulphureous springs, all mark it as the most volcanic region known. Indeed, shocks of earthquakes, generally slight, are periodically felt at the opening and closiDg of the wet season. CENTRAL AMERICA. 5 Products. — The productions of Central America are numerous. Abundant materials for exchange with other nations are afforded in cotton, coffee, sugar-cane, arrow-root, ginger, tobacco, and even silk worms, though but lately imported ; but especially in "anil" (indigo), and " grana " (cochineal), which, because most lucrative, absorb almost all the attention of the planter. Other marketable productions are not wanting ; but both known and unknown sources of wealth decay in the forests, or lie hidden beneath the soil. Besides these, the more temperate regions yield all, or nearly all, the pro- ductions which are raised in Europe. Wheat and barley are cultivated sometimes by the side of the sugar-cane, on the elevated plains ; and the markets of the larger towns are supplied at once with the productions of torrid and of temperate climes ; so that, at all seasons, the groen pear, the caulifiovver, and cos-lettuce, are sold along with the avocato-pear, olive, capsicum, or chillies, and many other productions of opposite climates, less delicate, perhaps, but more common and useful. Ofediblefruits, those most common are the banana, pine-apple, orange, sweet lemon, lime, shaddock, water-melon, musk- melon, sapote, mango, guava, fig, tamarind, pomegranate, gi'anadilla (fruit of the passion flower), sea-grape, papia, mamma9, star and custard-apples, cocoa, cashew, and ground nuts. There are said to be in all " more than forty genera," including probably, those introduced from Europe, such as the apple, the pear, quince, cherry, &c., which, though they are found to thrive, are little appreciated, and none of any sort can be said to be cultivated with care. The same remark applies, though with frequent exceptions, to garden flowers, which are still more varied. It has been well observed, that " the precious metals, of Ceutral America, together with quicksilver, copper, lead, iron, talc, litharge, and most other minerals that are in use, only await the labour and ingenuity of man to extract them from the earth, and convert them into objects of convenience and beauty ; and seams of coal, ochre, gypsum, sal-ammoniac, and wells of naptha, are also ready to yield their valuable stores. Jasper, opal, and other precious stones are also found ; and pearl fisheries have long existed upon the coasts. In fine, there is no lack of anything that nature can bestow to sustain, to satisfy, and to delight. So abundant are the necessaries of life that none need want; so profuse are the bounties of nature that they are suffered to decay through neglect. Lying between the parallels of 10° to 18°, and almost insular as to any influence of the continent on its temperature, the climate of the coasts and lowlands is hot and humid. That of the interior varies with the altitude, and is generally mild, equable, and salub- rious. The two seasons aptly designated the ' wet ' and the ' dry, ' are well defined. They may be said equally to divide the year, though they vary considerably in different districts. The rains, everywhere copious, are more continuous in some parts, and the drought is more severe in others, but the dry season is occasionally interrupted by refreshing showers, and the wet is everywhere relieved by an interval of dry weather. In the highlands of the interior, the seasons are singularly regular. The dry weather commences about the close of October, and terminates on the 12th or 13th of May, rarely varying even a few hours. It is most frequently on the 12th that the rainy season commences. The sky is then suddenly obscured with thick clouds, which burst simultaneously, often accompanied with thunder, and sometimes with. 6 CENTRAL AMERICA. hail. This is confined to the afternoon, and returns on the following days, or perhaps for successive weeks at the same hour, or a little later. During the whole of the wet season, which is by far the most agreeable, the forenoon is almost invariably cloudless, and the atmosphere clear, elastic, and balmy. The rains are often confined to the evening and night, or to the night hours only. During the dry season, the mornings and evenings are often so cool and bracing as to predispose to active exercise, though fires are never resorted to. Thi'ough the day the sky is seldom obscured, and light clouds only are to be seen sweeping rapidly along the plains during the short twilight that ushers in the equinoctial day, thence they rise and hang in clusters round the tops of the mountains till the sun has gathered strength to dispel them ; in the evening they return to attend its setting, and add inimitable beauty to the scene. At all seasons the entire disc of the moon is distinctly visible through all its phases, but now it shines with such uninterrupted clearness, as entirely to supersede, when above the horizon, the necessity of artificially lighting the streets ; and even in its absence, the brilliancy of the stars dispels all gloom. In some districts on the eastern coasts, through local influence, it rains more or less all the year; which, however, adapts them for the growth of certain vegetable productions ; while the districts where the dry weather lasts the longest ai'e alone suitable for the cultivation of others. On the more elevated plains, such as those of Quesaltenango, in the department of Los Altos, the heat is never go great as during the summer months in England ; and though snow is said sometimes to fall in December and January, it immediately dissolves, and the thermometer never descends so low as freezing point." GULF OF PANAMA. Variation about 6|^^ E. in 1879. There is little, if oni/, annual chauf/e. The southern limits of the gulf of Panama are usually considered to be point Gara- chine and cape Mala. The coast immediately south of the gulf is not properly included within the limits of the present work, but as many ship-masters using it, may make the gulf from southward, it is advisable to commence our description of the coast vfiih cape Corrientes, New Granada. CAFE CORBIEWTES, the south-west extremity of which is in lat. 5° 28' 4G", long. 77° 32' 33", may be easily known by the dome-like peaks of Anana, about 1500 feet high, which rise directly over it ; this is the first high land north of Monte Christo (in lat. 1° 3' 40", long. 80° 40') and generally makes like an island from southward. It is densely •wooded from the summit to high water mark, and the almost constant rains give a bright green colour to the peaks. At about 8 miles northward of the cape is UTRIA; CABITA AND SOLANO BAYS. 7 Alusea point, the northern extreme of the j^romontory. The water off this projecting point of land is deep, 50 fathoms being found close to tiie rocks, and 100 at a distance of less than 3 miles. In the vicinity of the cape the current appears to set constantly northward. Cabita Bay, — On the south side of cape Corrientes is Cabita bay, situated eastward of a high rocky point, distant about 3 miles from the cape; although open to south- ward, there is here good anchorage, with a capital watering place. Vessels may lie in 18 fathoms at about three-quarters of a mile from the stream in the bight of the bay, with the western horu bearing S.AV. by W, At about 5 miles south-eastward from the watering-place is the mouth of the river Jeya, southward of which is a remark- able perforated rock named Iglesia (or Church) de Sevira. On the eastern side of the bay the high bold land suddenly terminates, and a beach, with low river land commences, extending, with the exception of the cliffs north of the river Buenaventura (in lat. 3° 49') and that of Cascajal point, as far south as the river Esmeralda, a distance of 400 miles. The coast from Alusea point northward trends eastward 14 miles to the river Nuki, a small mountain stream "the shore between consists alternately of bluffs and sandy beaches, with a few rivulets. At about 8 miles N.N.W. from the river Nuki is a cluster of high rocks, facing, at the distance of 2 miles, the river Chiru, another mountain stream ; and 3 miles northward of these rocks is the Morro Chieo, a pinnacle of a similar nature. From these rocks the coast runs in the same dii-ection, high, rugged, and woody, nearly 8 miles to port Utria. TTtria, — This harbour is about 3 miles long in a northerly direction by half a mile broad, and has an average depth of 12 fathoms. It is formed on the east side by a lofty but narrow peninsula, which has two islets and some- detached rocks off its south point. The entrance is south-eastward of these ; it has no hidden dangers, the shores being steep. The eastern side consists of a sandy beach, which runs out to a spit 2|- miles within the entrance ; at this point the harbour is only a quarter of a mile across, but northward of it, it widens and forms a commodious basin. The situation of port Utria will be easily known by Playa Baia, a beach about 4 miles long, fringed with cocoa-nut trees ; this is immediately northward of the peninsula, and the land behind it is low. At the north extreme of the beach is the mouth of the little river Baia, off which is a rocky islet. Solano Point, in lat. 6° 3 8', long. 77° 27' 30", about 12 miles northward of the river Baia, is a long, rocky, tongue-like projection, on the eastern side of which is the bay of Solano. A reef, consisting of rocky patches with deep water between, extends 1^ miles from the point, and has soundings of 10 to 30 fathoms close to it; it must , therefore be carefully avoided. The coast southward of this point is high and rocky, with occasional small beaches. There is a patch of rocks 3 cables from the shore, at about 6 miles southward from the extremity of the point, and the water is deep (40 fathoms) within a mile of the coast. Solano Bay is a deep but spacious anchorage formed by Solano point on the south- west, and a lofty promontory, which juts out some 3 miles on the north. It abounds in fish, wood, water and cocoa-nut palms ; and there are considerable groves of 8 CUPICA, OCTAVIA, AND PINAS BAYS. vegetable rvory, a palm-like plant found in low damp localities, in the vicinity of the sandy beaches. At about 2 miles south-westward from the north point of the bay, there is a small chain of rocky islets, nearly a mile long, the centre of which has a remarkable sugar-loaf form ; they are barren and frequented by large numbers of gannets. The soundings in the bay are from 60 to 15 fathoms, the latter being close to the shore. Cupica Bay. — From Solano bay the land trends northward about 20 miles to Cupica bay, which is about 5 miles wide, and justly considered one of the best anchorages on this coast. It is formed on the west side by a projecting point named Cruces, having off it some detached islets, the outermost of which is distant about 2 miles. Vessels may anchor in any part of the bay in a convenient depth, and find shelter from all winds except those from southward. The approximate geographical position of point Cruces is lat. G° 39', long. 77° 80' 30". When in Cupica bay, the nearest and most convenient mode of access to the Naipe, a tributary of the Atrato, is from Limon bay, on the eastern shore; the land above it is about 500 feet high, over which is a waterfall named Quebrada del Mar. The head of Cupica bay is a sandy beach 4^ miles long, at the west extreme of which is the mouth of the river Cupica ; on its banks there is a village with some plantations from which vegetables can be obtained. It is high water, full and change, in Cupica bay at 3h. 30m., the rise being about 13 feet. The current in the oflfing sets northward. Octavia Bay. — From Cruces point the coast trends north-westward 15 miles to point Marzo, in lat. 6° 50', long. 77° 40' 30", which is of a similar nature, and also has detached islets extending li miles southward from it. The bay eastward of Marzo point named Octavia, although smaller than that of Cupica, possesses convenient depth for anchorage. In addition to the detached islets off point Cruces there are high barren rocks of fantastic shapes lying about 1 i miles southward of them ; the passage between is deep and clear. The COAST on the western side of point Marzo is bold, rugged, and thickly wooded; it runs in a northerly direction nearly 8 miles, to some detached islets, lying one mile from the coast with 16 fathoms in-shore of them. Thence the coast bends sharply to the eastward for 2 miles ; the cliffs ceasing at the mouth of the river Coredo, a small stream easily entered by a boat, from which a continuous line of beach, with low lands behind it, extends to the north-west for 14 miles, as far as Ardita bay. On this part of the coast are the mouths of two small streams, the Curachichi and the Ouredo, both of which are barred. This whole coast, like that to the southward, is thinly inhabited, huts being generally found in the bays and in the vicinity of the numerous small rivers. Ardita bay may be known by a small islet lying off it. From Ardita bay to Pinas point, a distance of 32 miles, the coast is high, rugged, and thickly wooded, having deep water close to the shore, with the exception of two small bays situated about 20 miles northward of Ardita ; the northern one, Gusgava, has convenient anchorage ; • — there is also a beach directly south of Pinas point. Finas Bay is about 3 miles northward of Pinas point. It affords the best anchorage between Octavia bay and Garachine point. It is 2 miles deep by 1^ milea wide, with GARACHINE AND SAN MIGUEL BAYS. 9 an average depth of 10 fathoms, and is open to south-westward, from which quarter occasional squalls in the wet season, throw a considerable swell into it. The head of the bay, the geographical position of which is lat. 7° 34' 37", long. 78° 9' 50"., con- sists of a beach, little more than one mile in length, with low land behind it; the sides of the bay are high and rocky. Good water may be obtained from a stream at the west extreme of the beach, which is protected from the swell by a small natural mole on its western side. Vessels may anchor at about half a mile from the watering place in 8 fathoms ; in the wet season they should keep more on the west side of the bay in 12 fathoms, with the end of the mole bearing N. by W. Off the western point of the bay are the Gentinelas, two high barren rocks. Garacbine Bay. — From Pinas bay a high, bold, and wooded coast trends northward 33 miles to point Garacbine. At about 3 miles south-west from this point is cape Escarpado, off which is an islet named Cajualo. The land over point Garacbine is lofty, and mount Zapo (5 miles from the coast) will be noticed as a sharp conical peak, rising to an elevation of about 3000 feet. Garacbine bay, north-eastward of the point, between it and Patena point, is shoal ; its shore consists of low mangrove land, forming the mouths of the river Sambo, which is fronted with mud banks extending 3 miles from the coast. At the entrance of the western mouth is the Pueblo of Gara- cbine, a small collection of huts. Fronting the bay, in a direct line between Gara- cbine and Patena points is a bank 5^ miles long, with patches of 15 feet water on it, and 4 and 5 fathoms inside ; and 4 miles N.W. by W. from the former point, is a small patch of 4^ fathoms, with 6 and 8 fathoms close to it. There is anchorage close off either of the points of the bay, the water being deep in their vicinity. SAN zaiGUEi. BAY is immediately north of Garacbine bay. The entrance is 6i miles wide, between Brava point on the north and Patena point on the south. At about 2 miles E.S.E. from Brava point is Lorenzo point, off which, within the bay are Iguana and Napoleon islets, the former is about 1^ miles long, and is the larger of the two ; 3 miles northward of these is the mouth of the river Congo. From Iguana island eastward the bay opens, being nearly 11 miles across, and at 7 miles north-eastward of the island is Pierce point, a rocky projection on the north shore. The western side of the bay between Lorenzo and Pierce points is little known, but is reported to be shoal. The eastern side has plenty of water along it ; off Patena point, which is just separated from the main enough to make it an island, there is no known danger ; at 2^ miles inside this, in a N.N.E. direction, is Colorado point, bold and rocky, with a conspicuous patch of reddish clay on its face, the coast between forming a bay. The land then for 1^ miles gradually decreases in height to Hamilton point, when it falls back to the eastward, and bends round again to the north, forming a bay 3^ miles across, with low mangrove shores, having a village and anchorage in it ; but as there are some ledges of rocks in this bay that do not always show, great caution is necessary in using it, and a boat should be first sent in to point out the deep water. In the entrance to San Miguel bay, at a short distance from the north shore, there is an extensive bank, named Buey, upon which the sea breaks heavily ; it is 6 miles 10 SAN MIGUEL BAY. in circumference, and some of its patches aje dry at low water. Its inner edge lies nearly 1^ miles south-westward from Lorenzo point ; the passage between should not be used, as there are only 10 feet least water in it, and generally a heavy swell. A spit of 12 feet extends 1^ miles from its south-west end; and as only A^ fathoms are found at nearly 5 miles south-west from the bank, vessels should not stand within that depth. Colorado point, kept open of Patena point bearing N.E., is a good mark to clear this bank, and also for running into San Miguel bay. At about 12 miles eastward from Lorenzo point, and consequently within the en- trance of San Miguel bay, is Washington island, an islet 3 cables in length, as many broad, and densely covered with wood. It lies nearly 3^ miles N.N.E. from Hamilton point, and between it and the nearest shore are several islets and rocks. The channel up the bay is northward of this island, between it and Jones island, a conspicuous little rock about 20 feet high, and covered with grass, lying 1^ miles to the N.W. by W. of it. The coast from abreast of Washington island takes a northerly direction for about 6 miles to Stanley island ; in this space are several little bays, lined with mangrove, the points generally being of small elevation, rocky, and covered with bush. The channel is between the coast and a group of islands on the west, of which the eastern- most is named the Strain ; this little island is about 25 feet high, covered with trees and scrub, and surrounded by a ledge of rocks extending a short distance oflf it towards the channel, but connected by mud banks with two islands westward of it. At this point Barry rock, an islet 20 feet high, and covered with cacti, lying about 3 cables from the eastern shore, contracts the channel to one mile in width ; apparently there is deep water all round this rock, but the passage on its west side being by far the widest, most direct, and sounded, there can be no object in using the other. The channel continues of about the same breadth to Virago point, a distance of 2^ miles. When working thi'ough do not go within a line drawn from one island to the other, and avoid Bains bluff, one mile southward of Virago point, where there is a dangerous ledge of rocks at 3 cables from the shore. Stanley Island, a low wooded island Ih miles long by one mile broad, divides the channel into two passages, both leading into Darien harbour ; the princfpal one, or Boca Grande, being a continuation of the bay of San Miguel in a northerly direction past the west and north sides of Stanley island, and the other, or Boca Chiea, between its southern side and Virago point. The latter channel, although much shorter, is too narrow for a sailing vessel to usa with safety, on account of the rapid tide in it. Boca Chica. — This has two dangerous ledges of rocks at its outer entrance, one on each side, the passage between them being barely 1^ cables wide ; the southern ledge lies nearly 1 cable west from Virago point and only shows at low-water spring tides. The Trevan rock on the north side of the entrance uncovers at half tide about 2 cables from the shore of Stanley island. Mary island, the northern of the group before mentioned, kept just midway between the summit and north-west extreme of Jorey island, bearing S.W., is an excellent mark for clearing these dangers, recollecting that if brought on with the summit, the vessel will get on the northern ledge, and if open to the westward she will be on the opposite one; when past these rocks keep in mid- DARIEN HARBOUR. 11 channel. A small ledge runs out a short distance from the south-east point of Stanley island, having passed which the vessel will be in Darien harbour, and may anchor, as convenient, in 5 to 10 fathoms, sand and mud. The Boca Chica is not, however, recommended, unless used at slack water, for during the strength of the tide it runs 6 or 7 knots ; the eddies making the steerage difficult. Boca Grande. — This lies between the rocks outside the Boca Chica and Milne island on the western shore, is one mile broad, and continues nearly the same width for li miles between Stanley island and the shore. After passing the Boca Chica steer north-westward, so as to shut in Mary island by Milne island, and do not approach Stanley island within 3 cables, as a dangerous rock, showing only at about three- quarters ebb and connected by a ledge with the shore, lies off its north-west point. Milne island just touching the eastern end of the islands connected with Strain island, bearing S. J E., is a good mark for running; and if working, when northward of Milne island tack directly Mary island opens of it on the one side, and when Edith island is shut in on the other. The navigable channel at this point is three-quarters of a mile wide, and begins to turn to the eastward round the north end of Stanley, narrowing to half a mile between Ray and Jannette islands on the north, and a large flat rock, nearly always uncovered, and a little wooded island about a cable off Stanley island on the south; following the channel, it bends back to the south-east, and continues of the same breadth between Ellen and Paley islands on the west, and the main land on the east, into Darien harbour. sarien Harbour is a magnificent sheet of water extending 11 or 12 miles in a south- east direction as far as the village of Chupigana, It is formed by the junction of the Tuyra and Savana rivers, and the depth of water in it from Paley island as far as the mouth of the Savana, a distance of 2 miles, is from 10 to 4^ fathoms, beyond which there is not more than 12 to 18 feet at low- water springs. The best place for anchoring is in from 7 to 10 fathoms, off the village of Palma, one mile southward of Price point, at about 3 cables from the western shore. The Vaguila rock, showing at about half tide, lies off' the mouth of the Savana, East If miles from Palma point, with a good channel between it and Graham point, the west point of entrance to the river. The shores of the harbour are almost without exception one continuous line of mangrove, with densely wooded hills from 100 to 300 feet high a short distance inland. Palma appears to be situated on the best spot, and has an abundance of fresh-water. The Piicer Tni/ra rises in lat. 7° 40', and enters Darien harbour near the village of Chupigana. Twenty miles from this point, near the junction of the river Chuqunaque, are the ruins of the old Spanish fort of Santa Maria, near which were the gold mines worked by the Spaniards in the 17th century. The river is described as being navi- gable G miles beyond the town, " abreast which it was reckoned to be twice as broad as the river Thames is at London. The rise and fall of the tide there was 15 feet." The river Chuqunaque rises in lat. 8° 50\ westward of Caledonia bay on the Atlantic. The Savana Elver rises in lat. 8° 44', and a few miles from its source meets the river Lara, where the bottom is level with the half-tide. From this point the depth increases, 3 fathoms at low water being found 3^ miles to the southward, and from thence to the mouth, a distance of 12 miles, the depth varies from 9 to 12 fathoms 12 TRINIDAD AND CHIMAN RIVERS, &c. over a soft muddy bottom. The navigable entrance is nearly one mile wide between Graham point and Haydon bank, and the shores are low mangrove land, skirted with hills from 200 to 300 feet high, within 2 miles of the banks. H.M.S. Virago anchored in 3i fathoms, one mile to the north-east of Graham point. It is high water, on the days of full and change of the moon in Darien harbour at 4h., and springs are said to rise 24 feet. The tides in the narrows run proportionally strong, and great care should therefore be taken. Brava and Ix)renzo jwinU, forming the north side of San Miguel bay, are edged with reefs and outlying rocks, on which the sea breaks with great violence ; this fact, together with the proximity of the Buey bank, makes this part of the coast dangerous, and it should therefore be avoided, even by small vessels. Farallon Ingles, — This is a small but high island, on the edge of the shoal off the river Buenaventura, at about 5 miles northward of Brava point ; there are 12 and 15 feet water on its western side. At 4 miles northward of it is Gorda point, which is bold and woody with a depth of 4 fathoms close to it. The Pajaros are two small rocky islets lying off the coast, 4 miles northward from Gorda point ; there is a depth of 4 and 5 fathoms off their west sides, but only 12 feet between then and the shore. At these islets a shoal commences, with 5 fathoms on its outer edge, which fronts the whole shore of the bay of Panama as far westward as Chame point. River Trinidad, 2^ miles northward of the northern Pajaros islet, has a low rocky projection forming its south point of entrance. A 3-fathom channel was found into this river, extending 1^ miles from the point, beyond which it was not examined. The northern bank of the river is composed of mangroves, which continue along the coast, with the exception of the bluffs of the rivers Chiman and Chepo, as far as Panama, a distance of nearly 70 miles. Shag rock, a barren islet, frequented by birds, with shoal water round it, lies 2J miles from this entrance. Mangne and Majaguay, 7 miles from the entrance of the Trinidad, are high, wooded islets at tide time, but not at low water, being situated on the south-west edge of a large mud flat, which extends from the north bank of the river Trinidad. There are 10 to 12 feet water westward of them. River Chiman, 4 miles northward of Mangue and Majaguay, is wide at the mouth, but shoal, being dry at low water, with the exception of some small channels deep enough for canoes. The entrance is well marked by the islets just mentioned and the wooded bluffs on each side. On the eastern side, under a hill, is the small town of Chiman. Pclado Island. — At about 4 miles W. by S. from Mangue islet, and directly off the mouth of the river Chiman, is Pelado, a small flat island, about 60 feet high. It is steep on all sides, and useful as a mark to vessels bound up the bay for Panama, which should not go eastward of it. The coast between Pelado and Chepillo islands, the latter distant 31 miles to the north-west, consists of low river land covered with mangrove bushes. In this space are several small streams, the principal of which are the rivers Hondo and Corutu; but these are shoal at the entrance. The land north of these rivers is of some elevation ; PANAMA. 13 Column peak and Asses ears, about 12 miles north of Chiman, and Thumb peak, at the west extreme of the range, are conspicuous. Extensive mud banks, dry at low water, extend from 2 to 4 miles oiF the coast ; outside these the water is shoal for some distance, hence vessels standing towards the main should tack in 9 fathoms. Chepillo island, in about lat. 8° 26^', long. 79° 7', lies off the mouth of the river Chepo, at about 2 miles from the coast. It is one mile long by half a mile broad, low on the north side, and rises by a gentle ascent towards the south, over which is, or was, a remarkable tree, which forms an excellent mark to vessels bound up the bay. The southern point of the island may be approached as near as a mile, but the other sides are shoal, and a reef runs off its northern point in the direction of the river. Cbepo River extends some distance into the interior, having its rise near the head of the Savana river. The entrance is westward of Chepillo island, through a 10-foot channel, about 3 cables broad ; there is a small hUl, with a cliff under it, on the eastern bank, which, if brought to bear N.E. i E. (1847), will lead through the deepest water. At the west bank of this river the mud flat commences, and continues to Petillo point, immediately northward of Panama. It is shallow some distance out, in front of this flat, hence vessels should not approach the coast between Chepillo island and Panama, nearer than the depth of 6 fathoms. FAiQAMA is a regular and was formerly a well-fortified city, standing on a rocky peninsula. It has a noble appearance from the sea, the churches, towers, and houses, showing above the line of the fortifications, stand out from the dark hills inland with an air of grandeur to which there is no equal on the west coast of South America. It is rendered still moi-e conspicuous by mount Ancon, a beautiful hill, 540 feet high, rising nearly a mile westward of the city, to which it forms a pleasant background ; on each side of Ancon are flat hills, with copses of wood and savanas, grassy slopes and wild thickets, while southward of the city the cultivated islets of Flamenco Mid Perico complete the scene. The site of Panama has once been changed. The old city, built in 1518, which was taken and destroyed by the buccaneers under Morgan in 1673, stood at the mouth of a creek, about 4 miles north-east of the present city. The spot is now deserted, but well marked by a tower, which, together with an arch, two or three piers of a bridge, and some fragments of a wall, are the only remains of a once opulent city. The tower, in the afternoon, is still a conspicuous object from the anchorage. The expectations formed of the modern city of Panama, as seen from the sea, are by no means realised on landing. The principal streets extend across the peninsula from sea to sea, intersected by the Calle Real or Royal street, which runs east and west, and has a quiet and stately, but comfortless, air. Heavy balconies in the upper stories are but little relieved by any variety in the buildings. The houses, mostly in the old Spanish style, are of stone, the larger having courts or patios ; the public edifices comprise a cathedral, five convents, a nunnery, and a college, but most of these are in ruins. The cathedral is a large, lofty building, on the west side of the Plaza, but the structure is hardly worthy of its situation, the towers alone redeeming it from insignificance, and forming in the distance an ornament to the city. A great want U PANAMA. is felt in Panama with regard to drainage This is caused by neglect ; for the eleva- tion of the peninsula on which the city stands, together with the great rise of the tide, offers considerable advantages for cleansing the city, which duty at present is performed by the heavy rains of the wet season. The gold discoveries of California and British Columbia, by increasing the coloniza- tion and developing the great agricultural resources of those countries, have effected a change in the fallen fortunes and grass-grown streets of Panama; and comfortable inns and large well-stocked stores have been called into existence by the continuous transit of emigrants from Europe and the United States to San Francisco and Victoria; this traflSc has, however, decreased since the establishment of the railway from New York to San Francisco. The suburb of Santa Ana, situated on the isthmus which connects Panama with the mainland, is almost &i extensive as the city, thougli not so well built. At its northern extreme is the terminus of the Panama railway to Colon or Aspinwall, on the Atlantic, a distance (by rail) of 47 miles. This railroad was only completed in January 1855, since which time the company has been constantly making improvements.* The line * The problem of constructing a canal across the isthmus of Panama to connect the two great oceans, the Atlantic and Pacific, has lately been again revived. In the spring of 1879 a Congress •was held in Paris for the purpose of discussing the various schemes which have from time to time been put forward. ' At its termination the report of the Technical Committee on the seven schemes which it had considered was read and may be briefly summarized as follows : — The Tehuantepec, 240 kilometres, 120 sluices, 12 days transit. Nicaragua, Menocal-Blanchet schemes each 292 kilometres, 17 sluices; cost of construction, including sluices, 770, 000,000f, total cost 900,000,000f; 4i days. Panama, level canal, 73 kilometres, one sluice, six kilometres of tunnel ; construction l,070,000,000f, total cost l,200,000,000f ; two days. Panama, sluices, 73 kilometres, 12 sluices; construction 570,000,000 ; total cost 700,000,000 ; two days. San Bias, 53 kilometres, 16 kilo- metres of tunnel; construction, l,270,000,000f, total cost l,400,000,000f ; one day. Atrafo Napuipi, 290 kilometres, two sluices, four kilometres of tunnel ; construction 1,000, 000, OOOf, total cost l,130,000,000f ; three days. The expense of working and repairs was set down in each case, capitalised at 5 per cent., at 130,000,000f. As to the Tehuantepec route, the committee had no data on which to estimate the cost, but believed it would greatly exceed that of any of the other schemes. The Nicaragua project offered an inexhaustible reservoir of water, and a port could easily be made on the Pacific side ; but serious difficulties were to be apprehended at certain points. The Panama schemes offered excellent i^orts at both ends, and the existing railway would facilitate the transit of material. Subject to tidal sluices at the Pacific end and the complete isolation of the waters of the Chagres and its affluents, the level scheme was quite satisfactory. The Darien projects were not acceptable. The committee objected also to the Nicaragua scheme," though technically feasible, on account of the volcanic nature of the country and consequent liability to destruction of the work. The Panama route, on the other hand, bad long been free from volcanic action, and was decidedly preferable above all others. The choice lay here between a level canal and one with sluices, and the committee decidedly preferred the former. — A report was likewise presented by the President and office-bearers on the Congress at large and those of the various committees. This document cited the Suez Canal traffic and charges as proof of the remunerativeness of the enter- prise, and advocated a flat canal, through which 50 ships could pass daily, and capable of sheltering at least GO ships at a time. It recommended the Congress to adopt the following resolution :— r/i BAY is included between Juco point and a large island named Parida, 11^ miles south-westward from the point. In it are numerous islands and rocks, but with the assistance of the Admiralty chart No. 2816, little difficulty will be experienced in selecting an anchorage. At about a mile south-westward from Juco point are two islets connected together and surrounded by a reef, named Monitas, the southern of which bears a close resemblance to a saddle ; and, at 2~^ miles S. 1 W. from these islets is an isolated rock named Viuda, having a reef extending from it about half a mile in an E. by S. A S. direction — as this rock and reef are both steep, with soundings im- mediately around them of 10 to 12 fathoms, they require great care to avoid. It is said that to vessels approaching David bay from southward the presence of the Viuda reef may generally be known by breakers, but whether this be the ease or not, it is a very formidable danger.* In nearly the middle of David bay is a very dangerous rock named El Bnei/ which is only visible at half tide, and for which unfortunately no well defined landmarks can be given. Its position is 3 miles W. by N. from the southernmost Monitas islet, and about ll miles N.E. i- E. from the largest San Jose islet. Its extent is but small,, and the soundings close to it are 5 to 7 fathoms. • A sunken rock, the existence of which there is great reason to doubt, has been reported at about 4 miles S.S.E. from the Viuda. The French surveyinp; vessel Ohligado sought for it Unsuccessfully, although assisted in the search by a native of the country, who stated that he had seen the breakers upon it. The difficulty of finding an isolated sunken rock in deep water is well known ; hence it will be prudent to exercise more than ordinary vigilance when in the vicinity of this reported danger. DAVID BAY. 3jJ David bay is so named from the river which falls into it, npon\,hich is situated at the distance of 3^ leagues in the interior the principal city of the province of Chiriqui in the state of Panama ; the city bears the names of David or David Chiriqui, and is in lat. 8° 27', long. 82° 26' ; it can only be reached by boats, through a very intricate navigation.* At a short distance to the westward is the boundary between the Con- federation of New Granada, and the Republic of Costa Rica. The channel between the Monitas islands and point Juco is not considered safe, although the depth is 7 to 8 fathoms ; hence vessels seeking the anchorage in David bay almost invariably pass southward of these islands, between them and the Viuda rock, or between the latter and the islets off the east side of Parida island. The mark to steer for is the San Jose islands, a small group of islands 4 miles westward of the Monitas ; as these are covered with trees, and at low water the little sandy channels which sepai'ate them become dry, they are easily recognised. Vessels may approach the S*n Jose islands to a moderate distance, if ordinary precaution be taken to avoid any undiscovered outlying danger there may be about ; having made the islands, bear up a little northerly and anchor, or anchor about midway between the islands and the Monitas. The only known sunken reef in the bay is the Buey rock, already mentioned, for which a good look-out must be maintained. Buey rock, being an isolated danger at a considerable distance from shore, can be passed on all sides. To pass it on the west side, give. San Jose islets a berth of about half a mile, and steer with them bearing South to S. by W., until the bottom changes from mud to gravel, when the vessel will be inside the rock. If, on the contrary, the intention be to go eastward of the rock, pass the Monitas on the south side, and steer for Carre island, \\ miles W.N.W. from Juco point, and afterwards continue along the south side of the chain of islets as far as the entrance to Boca Chica, off which there is anchorage in 4|^ to 5 fathoms. This anchorage is safe during the fine season, as it affords good shelter from the prevailing breezes, and especially from northerly winds, which at that time have occasionally considerable strength ; but during winter, when S.W. winds prevail, it is better to anchor farther out under shelter of the San Jose islets. The coast north of the chain of islands extending from Juco point to the enti'ance of Boca Chica forms a bay named Playa Grande, in the north-eastern part of which is an • The city of David had in 1854 a population of about 5000. Its distance from the sea is about 10 miles, but the Boca San Pedro, the mouth of the river David nearest to it, has a bar across it which is, we believe, so shallow as to be impassable ; hence vessels are obliged to resort to the Boca Chica, 16 miles eastward of it, making a total distance of 26 miles from the city. Around the city are cultivated lands which reach to the foot of the extinct volcan© of Chiriqui. There is but little commerce, and that chiefly with Panama. From the summit of the volcano of Chiriqui the waters of the Atlantic and Pacificcanbe perceived, and it has been proposed to construct a railway across the level country between the two oceans. It is said that there are no obstacles to the construction of such a means of communication greater than an engineer of average ability would be able to overcome with ease. The proposed route was from Almirantebay on the north side of the isthmus, to David bay on the south side, taking the city of David on the way ; hence vessels would have a sheltered anchorage at each terminus. A bed of coal of couBiderable value traverses the whole distance. 31 BOCA CHICA AND PARIDA ISLAND. inlet, known .is Chuchegal bay. Plaj'a Grande has not been closely examined, and is reported to have many sunken reefs in it ; the soundings over its surfiice are probably 4 to 3 fathoms. The country behind Chuchegal bay affords abundant pasturage for cattle. Boca cbica, the narrow channel between Faino and Ventana islands, is 8 J miles W.N.W. from Jueo point, and is the only entrance to the rivor David practicable for vessels, which must be of very light draught, there being at low tide only 8 to 10 feet Avater in some parts of it. Boca Chica may be recognised by the rocks of Ventana island, which have been pierced by the sea. On the east side of the entrance is a rock named Lavandera, an isolated danger visible except near high water, situated about 1 ^ cables southward from Saino inland, and which must be carefully guarded against, there being a depth of 4 and 5 fx thorns close to its south side. At the village of Boca Chica (also known as Puerto de San Lorenzo), on the north side of the river and 3 J miles from the sea, the usual articles of provision can be procured, such as poultry, eggs, fruits, vegetables, &c. Meat cannot be obtained in any quantity, but cattle can be bought without difficulty. Fresh water of excellent quality can be got from the stream immediately east of the village. Tides. — It is high water on the days of full and change of the moon at Boca Chica at 3h. 15m. The rise of tide is about 10^ feet. During the Oblu/ado's visit, the flood at the anchorage outside the entrance was observed to flow N.N.W., and the ebb the contrary, with an average strength of 1 mile per hour, which diminished in force towards the San Jose and Monitas islands. Witliiu the entrance and in the river, the current was much more violent. When leaving David bay, if obliged to go westward of the San Jose islands, it is recommended to approach nearer those islands than to Palenque, because of the rocks extending from the latter ; the depth in the channel between is 6 and 7 fathoms. In the French chart No. 2816 a sunken rock of 11:|^ feet is inserted at about half-a-mile westward of the south part of the San Jose islets. Having cleared this sunken rock, a wide berth should be given to some rocks situated 1 J miles almost due South from the San Jose islets ; the depth throughout is 8 and 9 fathoms. Parida Island. — This is an island of iiTegular shape, 3| miles long in a N.N.E. and. S.S.W. direction, and about 1^^ miles wide in its broadest part. It is well wooded and there are rivulets affording abundance of water. Numerous islets, having among them many sunken reefs, are scattered about on its east and south-east sides to the distance from it of 3 to 4 miles, the largest (and almost farthest to seaward) of which is named Bolano ; these islets and reefs make the approach to David bay from south- westward a proceeding of some little risk. Among the islets and reefs there are doubtless channels which might be navigated in boats, but vessels must keep outside them, as they have not been closely examined. The only commodious anchorage near Parida island is at its north-east end, under protection of an island which affords shelter from southward ; the depth is 6^ fathoms on mud, and there is a little sandy bay where a landing can be effected. If from David bay, vessels may pass either on the west or south sides of San Jose islands ; if the ' former, it is necessary in the boards to westward to tack immediately the depth becomes 4^ fathoms. If this anchorage be approached from seaward, steer for the Viuda rock, POINT BURRICA AND COIBA ISLAND. 35 and, passing it at the distance of about IV miles on the west side, direct yonr conrsei for the San Jose islands ; leave these islands to the northward, and then steer for the north end of Parida island, maintaining a depth of 7 to 6 fathoms, but decreasing to 8^ fathoms as the anchorage is approached ; — when it deepens again to 6J fathoms, anchor. The lead should be kept going, and a good look-out kept for any undiscovered sunken rocks. At this end of Parida plenty of good water may be obtained. Chiinmo hay. — At the south-west end of Parida island is a little bay named Chimmdj where is a depth of 10 to 2| fathoms ; good fresh-water may be obtained here. In front of the bay is a little islet known by the name of Santa Cruz ; the passage in i^ north of this islet, because some rocks extend from it southward to the shoi'e. A reef also runs off southward a short distance from some islets on the north side of the bay. When sailing round the south-west point of Parida island, it should have a berth of about a mile, on account of some sunken rocks, half a mile from it, which have a depth of 15 and 16 fathoms close to them. From Parida island northward to the archipelago of islets fi'onting the coast, there is, with the exception of a narrow channel of 8 to 8i- fathoms close round the north end of the island, a bed of rocks through which there may bo channels fit for boats. The sea usually breaks upon these reefs when there is any wind. Point Burrica.^---From the south end of Parida island to the extremity of point Burrica, the bearing and distance are W. by S. \ S. 34 miles. The coast between forms a large bay which recedes 20 miles from a supposed line connecting these points. The shore in the east part of the bay consists of low islands forming the delta of the river David. The principal entrance to the river, the Boca San Pedro, is between Sevillia and San Pedro islands, and as already noticed is impracticable for vessels. Sevillia iS the easternmost island ; it abounds with game of various kinds, which can easily bo obtained. San Pedro is the westernmost of the large islands of the river ; from this island the coast trends westward and southward to point Burrica, and along the northern shore ai'e met with in succession the rivers Piedra, Pinos and Bartolome. In all this bay there is no sheltered roadstead, nor does it possess any advantage which should make it a place of resort for vessels. cozBA isXiAKD. — This is the largest island off the coast between Mariato and Burrica poiuts, as it is 19 miles long in a N.W. by N. and S.E. by S. direction, and about 12 miles wide in its broadest part. It is covered with forests, and there is abundance of good water in every part. Vessels may anchor off it on all sides during fine weather, but unfortunately it possesses no bay nor harbour in which shelter may be obtained fi-om all winds. As it is at present (1851) uninhabited, it is seldom visited. It was surveyed in 1818 by Lieut. Wood, R.N., and a chart (No. 1928) of it was subsequently published by the Admiralty. To this chart we must refer the reader, for the various details of its coast and outlying reefs. The ivestern coast of Coiba island appears, from the survey, to be of moderate heightj and bold, aud there are no known dangers outside those abutting on the shore. At about halfway down there is an open bay, named Hermosa, in which is a depth of 20 to 14 fathoms. On the eastern coast of the island is Damas bay, 5 or miles in extent, which ©2 36 COIBA ISLAND. affords a good depth of water and oxooUont shelter from westward. The soundings are from 30 to 15 fathoms, shoaling to the shore ; and water may be obtained in the northern part of the bay. Good holding ground, mad, will be found 5 or 6 mile so flf shore, in BO to 35 fothoms. Off the southern shore of the bay rocky shoals extend nearly a mile out, so that care is requii-ed to avoid them. In the middle of the bay the land is low, and here there is a small stream, named San Juan, at the entrance to which are some sandy flats. Few vegetables or fruits are to bo found hero, bnt shell-fish may be had in plenty ; there are also other fish to bo caught. Whales sometimes frequent these shores, but not in any great numbers. Wild beasts, birds and reptiles are said to abound, hence a visit to the island should be conducted with caution. In theacconnt of Lord Anson's voyage, by Richard Walter, published in 1776, there is a description of Coiba island, in the following terms. It should be preniised that the anchoring place of the squadron was in Damas bay : — ■ " The island of Coiba is extremely convenient for wooding and watering, since the trees grow close to the high-water mark, and a large rapid stream of fresh water runs over the sandy beach into the sea : so that we were little more than two days in laying in all the wood and water we wanted. The whole island is of a very moderate height, excepting one part. It consists of a continued wood spread all over the whole surface of the country, which preserves its verdure all the year round. Amongst other wood, we found abundance of cassia, and a few lime trees. It appeared singular to ns, that, considering the climate and the shelter, we should see no other birds than parrots, paroquets, and mackaws ; indeed, of these last there were prodigioos flights. Next to these birds, the animals we found in most plenty, were monkeys and iguanas, and these we frequently killed for food ; for, notwithstanding there were many herds of deer upon the place, the difficulty of penetrating the woods prevented our coming near them ; so that, though we saw them often, we killed only two during our stay. Our prisoners assured us that this island abounded with tigers ; and we did once discover the print of a tiger's paw upon the beach, but the tigers themselves we never saw. The Spaniards, too, informed us, that there was frequently found in the woods a serpent, called the flying snake, which, they said, darted itself from the boughs of trees, on either man or beast that came within its reach ; and whose sting they believed to be inevitable death. Besides these dangerous land animals, the sea hereabout is infested with numbers of alligatoi'S of enormous size. Whilst the ship (Centurion) continued here at anchor, the Commodore, attended by some of his ofiicers, went in a boat to examine a bay which lay to the northward ; and they aftei^wards ranged all along the eastern side of the island ; and in the places where they put on shore, in the course of this expedition, theylgenerally found the soil to be extremely rich, and met with great plenty of excellent Avater. In particular, near the north-east point of the island, they discovered a natural cascade, which surpassed; as they conceived, everything of this kind they had ever seen. It was a river of clear water, about 40yards wide, which rolled down a declivity nearly 150 feet in length. All the neighbourhood of this stream was a fine wood, and even the huge masses of rock which overhung the water, and which, by their various projections, formed the in- equalities of the channel, were covered ^vith lofty forest trees." HICARONS, RANCHERIA, &c., CONTRERAS. 87 Rear-Admiral Sir George Seymour has remarked of Coiba island, " It is about the same size as the Isle of Wight. Off the points, ledges of rocks generally extend ; but there is an appearance of an anchoring-place in the intervening bays on the east side, along which I proceeded in the Samjjson steam-vessel. The soil on the coast is good, but the interior is nearly inaccessible from the steepness of the cliffs and tangled vegeta- tion. We found traces of pearl-divers having visited the shores ; but there are no inhabitants (1817) except at the small islet of Rancheria, between which and the north- east end of Coiba there is good anchorage. A Frenchman, of the name of Sorget, is resident on Rancheria ; and this situation, as far as I could judge on a cursory view, seems more favourable for an establishment than any we saw on the larger island." Tides. — When Coiba island was visited by navigator Coinett, in 1794, the flood came from northward, flowing seven hours and ebbing five, and the perpendicular rise of the tide was 2 fathoms, Bicarons. — Southward of Coiba are the Hiearons, two small islands lying north and south of each other, being separated by a narrow channel. The small island, the southernmost, about a mile in extent, is entirely covered with coeoa-trees ; and the large one, 3f miles long, bears an equal appearance of leafy verdure, but there are very few trees of the cocoa kind. Hicaron is 830 feet high, and the most extensive look-out, says Captain Coinett, is from the top of this island, for it commands Coiba and the whole of the coast and bay to the northward. The small island is known as Hicarita. The approximate geographisal position of the south point of the southern- most island is lat. 7° 12' 40", long. 81° 47.' The channel between Hicaron and Coiba is about 4 miles wide, and has an irregular depth of 6 to 10 fathoms- It is clear of sunken rocks ; but as there are some dangers near the south-east point of Coiba, it will be more prudent to pass southward of the islands than to attempt the passage within them. The principal danger to be avoided is the Hill rock, a small patch of 6 feet water, lying 2 miles S. f E. from Barca island, a small islet close to the shore of Coiba, and 5^ miles E. J N. from David point, the eastern point of Hicaron island ; close to this rock are soundings of 10 to 15 fathoms, so that it is very dangerous, Ranciieria, &c. — Off the north-east point of Coiba island are several islets and rocks. The largest islet, named Rancheria, is 1|^ miles in length, and lies about If miles from the shore, from which it is sep^irated by a channel of 7 and 8 fathoms, but, as there are several rocks in this passage, it will not be prudent to attempt to run through.* North-eastward of this, about 4|- miles, are two smaller islets, named Afuera and Afuerita, which are surrounded {for a very short distance) by rocks. A reef extends from the south-east point of Afuera, the larger island, about 2 cables ; at its extremity is a black rock, almost covered at high tide. Contreras. — This group is about 10 miles northward from Coiba, and is composed of two principal islands surrounded by many small islets and rocks. The northern island is named Brincanco, the southern Pajaros. Among them there is no good anchor- • There is good anchorage S.S.E. of Rancheria, opposite a sandy beach, whence wood and water can be easily procured from the island. Some shelter is furnished by a high round island. 38 GULF OF DULCE, &c. age. Tho Ohlitjada anchored north of Briucanco in 1854, opposite a little bay in which were anchored the boats of some pearl and turtle fishers, and found the bottom- very bad for holding, although composed of gravel. Vessels may approach the Coutreras without hesitation if due precaution be taken, as it is believed that there are no Bunken dangers among them, the positions of which are not shown by breakers. The soundings immediately around them are 30, 35 and 40 fathoms, the latter being close to their south-west side, and there is a clear channel between the two large islands in which the depth is 33, 21, and 31 fathoms. At about % miles south from tho islands is the Prosper rock, a pinnacle having the appearance of a black tower ; although this rock is steep on all sides, it will be prudent not to. attempt to pass between it and the islands on account of a rc-ef ^mrtially dry at law tide situated about midway in the channel. Secas. — This group of islets and rocks is situated nearly 15 miles from the coast between Pueblo Nuevo and David bay. About and among them are no known sunken rocks, the positions of which are not usually indicated by breakers. Here there is good shelter for small vessels, and upon some of tho islands a lauding may be effected, but there is very little inducement to go ashore as no water can be obtained. If tho approach of night or failure of wind oblige a vessel in their vicinity to anchor, the best anchorage is in 10 to 12 fathoms on sand. At about 3 miles eastward from the Secas is a dangerous rock named Bruja, which is almost awash at low tide. T*he position of this reef makes it a very formidable danger, especially at night ; there are soundings of 20 to 21 fathoms close around it. aiontuosa. — This little island is situated about 22 miles westward from Coiba island, its approximate geographical position being lat. 7° 28', long. 82° 11^'. It rises to a considerable height, and has its summit covered with cocoa and other trees. A narrow reef, above and under water, extends from it about 3 miles in a north-westerly du'ection, and a reef also runs off from its south-east side. Captain Cohiett landed here in 1794. He mentions that the bottom on the south side of the island, and also the shore near the sea is rocky. A sandy beach was found behind some little creeks between the rocks which atforded a safe landing for boats. Ladroaes.— These are two islands situated about 15 miles southward of Parida island, their approximate geographical position being about lat. 7" 52', long. 82° 25'. They are barren, of moderate height, and together are not more than a mile in extent. They should be approached with caution as sunken rocks may exist in their vicinity. The only known dangers are some rocks about a mile northward of them, and a reef is reported to lie 4 or 5 miles from them in the same direction, upon which at low tide is a depth of only 6 feet; as the position of this latter is uncei'tain, and as it is only shown by breakers when there is a stiff breeze, it must be very carefully guarded against. Girz.r or btji-ce^— Point uurica, the extremity of the land on the south-east side of the gulf of Dulce, appears like an island at a distance, and may be readily recognised, whether seen from south-westward or south-eastward. It advances seaward consider- ably from the main land, and its summit rises into three hills of apparently equal height and distance from each other. A nearer approach brings into view the low point which geminates it ; this also resembles an island from a distance. At rather more than a GULF OF DULCE. 39 mile from its extremity is a high isolated rock, serving as an excellent object for recog- nition when making the iaud from seaward ; in the channel between, and also around this rock are breakers, upon which account it will be prudent for vessels to give it a wide berth. Point Burica is sufficiently lofty to be seen in clear weather from a distance of about 85 miles ; in its vicinity the flood tide sets N.W. with some sti-ength, hence it is recommended to avoid being becalmed on its south-cast side. From point Burica the coast trends about 12 miles in a north-westerly direction to point Platanal, at the entrance to the gulf of Dulce. It is bold throughout, especially at point Platanal, where the mountain immediately over it rises to the height of 2,830 feet, and faces the sea in an almost perpendicular clifl'. This mountain is succeeded in a northerly direction by a moderately flat country, not visible from a distance, hence the cause of the land between points Burica and Platanal appearing like an island from seaward. It is said that in all this coast there is but one place where a landing can be effected, and that is in a little roeky creek into which a rivulet falls. With a westerly wind it will be advisable to give the coast just described a wide berth. Although not absolutely unsafe, the sea in its vicinity is very deep and rocky. At 2 miles from the land the lead fails to touch the bottom, sounding 80 fathoms, and with a strong wind from south-westward breakers of extreme violence are to be met with in-shore. For these reasons, vessels bound into the gulf of Dulce are advised to bear away for cape Matapalo, the western side of the gulf, after making point Burica ; within the cape is good anchorage and a more moderate depth of water.* The gulf of Dulce extends into the land about 40 miles in a north-westerly dii-ection, with an average width of 14 to 10 miles. It is but little frequented, and until 1852 was almost unknown to Europeans ; at that time its population consisted only of 12 to IB families located at point Arenitas, on the west side of the gulf. Its soil is extremely fertile, and it is asserted that its navigation is by no means difficult. It possesses numerous excellent anchorages, and there are no known sunken dangers at a greater distance from the land than a mile, with the exception of the bank facing the river Goto, on the east shore, at about 15 miles within the entrance ; this is the principal danger in the gulf, but as the sea almost always breaks upon it, and its position is well indicated by the soundings in its vicinity, there is but little difficulty in avoiding it. Cape Matapalo, ou the west side of the entrance to the gulf of Dulce, is high, pre- cipitous and covered with trees ; where the trees have fallen on the steep slopes the soil has a reddish appearance. This cape is the south-eastern termination of the high land Sal-si-puedes, which can be seen from a considerable distance ; hence, with the higb land terminating at point Burica, the situation of the gulf of Dulce is well marked. At about a mile irom the cape in an E.S.E. direction there is a rock 10 to 12 feet high, known as Matapalo rock, vvhich stands out prominently from the coast-, and when viewed from south-westward or north-eastward, appears very conspicuously ; it is safe to approach, but as there are breakers between it and the land, vessels should always • It is probable that the width of the entrance to the gulf is not so great as represented on the charts. The distance between point Platanal and cape Matapalo is reported by many observers to be not more than 10 miles. 40 GULF OF DULCE. pass it on its south side. The coast on the opposite side of the gulf is believed to be clear of all outlying dangers, but what are visible. All the western shore of the gulf consists of a flat well wooded country, Bandy to the village of Arenitas, and afterwards alluvial. At about 6 miles northward from Mata- palo rock is point Sombrero, from which a reef extends about half a mile ; and 3 miles farther in the same direction is Tigrito point, also having a reef from it to the distance of three-quarters of a mile — these reefs are the only known dangers on the western side of the gulf which vessels have to fear in the approach to Arenitas fi'om southward. Punta Arenitas. — ^At about 9 miles from Tigrito point is Punta (or point) Arenitas, a low sandy projection of the coast, the greater part of whioh is covered with trees. The houses which formerly stood on its extremity have been destroyed by an earth- quake, and the inhabitants, numbering about 400, have established themselves a little farther north and have named their village Santo Domingo. At about a cable east- ward from the point is a coral bank, which partially dries at low tide ; this bank has an extent of only 2 cables from east to west, and as its eastern edge is so steep that soundings of 14 to 12 fathoms may be obtained close to it, more than oixlinary care is required when approaching the point. Small vessels may pass between this bank and the shore, the narrow channel having a depth in it of 16 to 13 feet ; it is necessary to use the lead. When approaching Punta Arenitas from cape Matapalo, the sea is too deep for anchois age until point Tigrito is approached, the average soundings being 35 to 30 fathoms. Off this point (Tigrito) is anchorage in 13 to 16 fathoms, sand and shells ; or farther out in about 20 fathoms, green mud. At Punta Arenitas there is anchorage either N.W. or S.E. of the point ; the latter is preferable if it be intended to remain only a short time, on account of its exposure to the sea breezie and the consequent freedom from the excessive heat felt northward of the point. The best position for anchoring south-eastward of the point is at about a mile from the land in 10 to 12 fathoms, green mud, with the flagstaff (1852) bearing W. by N. i N., and point Tigrito S. J E, The anchorage north-westward of the point is vei-y good, and convenient for effecting general repairs ; but, if it be necessary to heel the vessel over, the Golfito, on the eastern side of the gulf, will be found a far more suitable place. The depth is 16 fathoms at a third or half a mile from the land, on gi'een mud ; eastward and north- ward of this position the soundings are 33 to 55 fathoms. The landing place at Punta Arenitas is on its north side, at the entrance to a little creek whioh is dry at low water. The point is almost as steep as a quay. No water can be obtained here to supply a vessel, but sufficient may be got from the river Tigre, 5 miles north-westward from it ; when off' this river it is advisable to send ashore at half-flood, that the stream may be ascended as far as possible, and it is recommended to leave the river at half-ebb ; because the sea falls rapidly. It is high water at Punta Arenitas on the days of full and change of the moon at 3h. 15m.; the highest rise of tide observed was 12 feet. When the Brllliante was at Punta Arenitas in 1852, a small quantity of fresh pro- visions was obtained from the village. Cattle could only be procured from the hacienda of Tigre. The neighbouring forests were ascertained to be rich in spars, and timber suitable for building purposes. Fibh was abundant. GULF OF DULCE. 41 Point Tigre. — From Areuitas to point Tigre the distance, as before observed, is 5 miles in a north-westerly direction; the coast between, covered with mangroves, is 80 steep that at about a quarter of a mile from it the depth is 15 to 30 fathoms, on sand. This point is formed by a mud bank, dry at low water, which extends out about half a mile. It is on the north side of the point that the little river Tigre, already alluded to, falls into the sea. From point Tigre to ElRincon, the head of the gulf, the distance is 17 miles, along a shore destitute of any objects sufficiently remarkable to be mentioned. At 5 miles from the point is the little river Aguja, which has, or had, a hut at its entrance; and 9 miles from this is Palma point, a very slight projection of the land, recognised by its two cocoa-trees, which are the only trees of the kind on all the coast from point Arenitas. The river Rincon is 3^ miles from Palma point; it has two entrances which can only be entered by boats. The soundings between the rivers Tigre and Aguja are not so deep as those south- ward of Tigre point ; but they increase in depth as Palma point is approached, and also towards El Rincon, the head of the gulf. At El Rincon the coast suddenly turns N.E. by E. \ E. and trends in that direction 11 miles, when it changes to E.S.E. and maintains that line of bearing throughout almost the whole of the east side of the gulf. In a very considerable part of this coast the mountains rise almost from the sea, and are covered with impenetrable foi-ests ; this description of coast prevails so far as the Golfito, when the mountains recede from the shore, and are succeeded by an almost flat country. At the head of the gulf, at not more than half a mile from the north shore, are some islets, surrounded by coral banks. Piiver Esquinas. — On the north-east side of the gulf, distant 4 miles from the islets just mentioned, is the small river Esquinas, which falls into the sea through a marshy plain. Fronting it is a bank of mud and sand (soil brought down in rainy seasons), which extends from the shore about 1^ miles and is for the most part dry at low tide. A channel into the river has been reported as existing across this bank, but in 1852 the bank was dry over the whole of its extent; there may therefore be a channel only during floods in the interior. From the river Esquinas the coast trends ih miles south-eastward to point Esquinas and is bold all the way ; the soundings met with in succession are 3 to 10 and 16 fathoms at a very short distance off it, the latter being close to the point. From this headland to point San Jose the distance is 9^ miles in an E. by S. ^ S- direction, passing at about midway a bold projection of the land ; ai'ound point San Jose are rocks, off which is a pearl fishery at the depth of 6^ to 10 fathoms. From this point to the entrance of the Golfito the distance is about 4 miles. When running down the coast from the islets to the Golfito, it is advisable to give the shore a good berth, as it has not been very closely examined. The soundings close to the land are represented as deep, which the mountainous nature of the country in its immediate vicinity would lead one to infer. Golfito. — This is an inlet of irregular shape running into the coast about 3^ miles, the upper or south-eastern part of which is very shallow. The entrance is well defined 42 POINT SAl-Sl-PUEDES. ou the nnith sIJc by poiut Golfito, a hig'a bold promontory bnviug a deptb of'G fathoms close off it, and ou the south side bj- a hill 790 feet high having at its base a low sandy peninsula ; the latter is very narrow, and.has, or had, a few cocoa trees upon it. The entrance is about a third of a mile wide, and is in the direction of N.E. by N. ; at first the depth is 13 to 7 fathoms, being shallowest off the southern shore, and thence it gradually decreases to -ih fathoms as the extremity of the sandy peninsula is approached. Immediately within this sandy spit, ou its south side, the soundings are 4|^ to 2 fathoms, and vessels may enter, if care be taken to use the lead frequently to avoid any shallow spot that may have escaped the detection of the surveyors. If unfortu- nately it be necessary to heel the vessel over to repair, it may be done in the Golfito, as there are many places suitable for that purpose. Squalls and heavy rains are very prevalent here. The regular winds of the gulf make the navigation of the channel leading into the Golfito compai"atively easy, and with the land-wind vessels can leave it without diffi- culty. There is anchorage in mid-channel in about 4^ fathoms. If desirous to anchor eastward of the peninsula, it will be advisable not to do so northward of the house on its extremity bearing W. by N. | N. Fdver Coto. — From the Golfito the shore trends 7^ miles S.E. by E. to the river Goto, and afterwards 3 5 miles south-eastward and westward to point Banco, the latter portion of coast forming the bay of Pavon ; it is low and sandy throughout, and backed by a flat well timbered country. The river Coto is the most considerable stream that falls into tlie gulf. It is said to have two entrances, 5 to 6 feet deep with sufficient water therefore for the admission of boats, but fronting it is a bank, already alluded to, which renders approach to the river difficult ; this bank extends from shore about 2 miles, and lines the coast northward as fiir as the entrance to the Golfito, its breadth gradually decreasing as it approaches the sandy peninsula into which it ultimately merges. The sea, even in calm weather, generally breaks on the bank ; hence, although its outer edge is very steep, it can usually be avoided without difficulty. In Pavon bay the soundings at a mile from the shore are 5 to 3 fathoms on sand. Vessels may anchor there, but only in very fine weather, and with the wind from eastward. Point Banco is bold and steep, but not so lofty as point Platanal 6 miles south from it. It is well wooded, and at its base are some rocks too near the land to be dangerous except to vessels close in shore. At about a mile south from it is a little stream, named Claro. It is advisable to give the coast between points Banco and Platanal a good berth, as it is believed that rocks extend off it a short distance. Point Sai-si-pnedes. — From cape Matapalo the coast trends W.N.W. 15 miles, and then westward about 4 miles to point Sal-si-puedes, a high precipitous point. It is low and sandy all the way, but immediately behind, it is high land, visible from a con- siderable distance. Except in very fine weather it is unadvisable to approach this coast closely, the sea off it being deep, and there being usually extremely heavy breakers upon the beach ; in some parts there is no bottom, sounding 50 fathoms, at less than half a mile fi'om the shore. Choncha Pelona . — At about a mile southward from point Sal-si-puedes there is a POINT LLORENA AND CANO ISLAND. 43 found bare rock named Chonclia Pelona. It is possible tliat there may be a clear pas- sage between this rock and the shore, but as such has not been ascertained it will be g,dvisable for vessels to keep outside it ; it is believed that deep water exists at a very short distance from its south side. Corcovado Rock. — From Sal-si-puedes point the coast trends in a north-westerly direction 147^- miles to point Llorena. At about midway between the headlands is the Corcovado rock, which is 33 feet high, and viewed from a moderate offing, stands out very prominently from the coast ; it is apparently joined to the shore by a sunken ledge which is probably the seaward termination of a bank fronting the small river Sirena. It will be prudent when passing the Corcovado to give it a wide berth, as the locality has n.ot been closely examined ; at 1t^ miles south-westward from it the depth i? 14 fathoms, and it is said that there is no bottom at 30 fathoms at a short distance southward from it. When approaching the Corcovado rock from north-westward, it is strongly recom- mended to avoid the coast between it and point Llorena, as the bottom is extremelyj irregular, and the low sandy coast presents no prominent marks to prevent a vessel' getting too near, Foint iiiorena. — This is a high, steep, and almost perpendicular headland, well' wooded, and partially covered with a luxuriant vegetation ; it will be easily recognised by a fine cascade whiiih falls from one of its cliffs. At a short distance from it are some islets aud rocks, some of which are well covered with shrubs. From point Llorena the coast runs miles in a northerly direction to point San - Jose, a bold, bluff headland, having it is believed, deep water at a moderate distance from the rocks at its base ; this point may be recognised from a good offing by a spot on it bare of trees. At about midway is point San Pedro, a cliffy projection having rocks about it under water. At nearly \^ miles from this part of the coast is a little rocky islet, named San Pedro, which is covered with trees and has sunken rocks about it extending seaward a cable or more. As this little islet is probably joined to the shore by a rooky ledge, it will be prudent when running down the coast to keep west- ward of it, giving it at the same time a wide berth. The islet and reef shelter a little bay under point San Pedro, the situation of which, in 1852, was further distinguished by a rock with a single tree on it, and also by the huts of the native Indians. The beach on the south-east side of point San Jose is bordered with cocoa and banana trees. Boats can land here under the rocks extending from the point. g^no Island. — Off this part of the coast, at about 10 miles distance, is the island of Cano, which is about a mile in extent from E. by N. to W. by S., and half a mile across. It is covered with trees, and the surface of the island is so level, that their summits present from a distance the appearance of almost a horizontal line. Its west extremity is surrounded by a reef under water, extending out, it is considered, about half a mile ; upon account of which, and also because the current sets strongly upon it, vessels should give this end of the island a wide berth ; — so steep is this reef that close to its edge is a depth of 15 fathoms, and at a cable from it 33 fathoms. The north- east point of the island has also some rocks about it, above and under water. The landing place on Cano island is on a sandy beach at its north-west side. In 44 POINT MALA DE LOS INDIOS. stoniw weather, with a strong wind from westward, it will l>o imprudent to attempt to go ou shore, as these wiuds ahvaj's briug a heavy sea. In the chauuel betweeu the island aud the shore there is no known danger. The depth midway is about 35 fathoms, which diminishes gradually eastward and westward; it is perhaps less deep nearer the land than the island. When steering from the island southward towards point Llorena the bottom becomes Tery irregular, as the soundings change suddenly from 27 to 32 fathoms ; but near the point it again becomes regular. Northward of a supposed line joining the island to point San Jose, the lead brings up a green compact sand ; southward of the line this sand is mixed with fine sand and broken shells. River Arjuja. — Following the shore from point San Jose about 3 miles, wo meet with the little river Aguja, which can be entered by boats. This is the only stream on the coast between the gulfs of Dulce and Nieoya, whence water can be obtained with facility. Sierpe Bay, — From the river Aguja, a high wooded shore, tronted by a narrow beach, trends northward 5 miles to Sierpe bay, where is a little river. The bay is surrounded by high land, and can be recognised from an offing of 8 miles by a lai'ge bare part called iXierastrado. The soundings across the entrance to the bay are 16 to 13 fathoms, on green sand of considerable tenacity. The north point of Sierpe bay, named Violine, is a bold and rugged projection of coast. Ofi" it is an islet covered with trees ; around this islet is a sunken rocky ledge, which may possibly extend to the shore, — hence, vessels should always pass this islet on its west side, giving it a wide berth. Sacate Islet. — At about 2 miles from Violine islet in a N. by W. direction, is a little islet named Sacate, which is distant nearly 8 miles from the nearest shore. It is believed to be surrounded by a rocky ledge. Point Mala de los indios. — From point Violine the coast bends sharply round east- ward aud forms the little bay of Violine, into the north side of which the rivers Guajumal and Matapalo fall. It then trends northerly 19 miles, suddenly turning to the westward near point Mala de los Indios. All this land is low, well-wooded, and in the interior marshy ; it contains several rivers, which, in succession from the Matapalo, bear the names of Brava, Chica, and Coronada. The coast is believed to have no sunken dangers off it, and it is asserted that the soundings in its vicinity are regular, averaging 15 to 10 fathoms at 3 to 2 miles from shore ; the bottom is, however, as might be expected, shallower in the immediate neighbourhood of the rivers.* Point Mala de los Indios is bold and rugged ; at a mile south-westward from it the depth is 16 fathoms. This point is the commencement of some high land, the Cerro de Ubita, which extends along the coast in a north-westerly direction ; from this circumstance it is easily recognised, and especially too, as the land eastward and south- ward of it is low. From point Mala de los Indios the coast trends 7 miles in a north-westerly direction * It is probable that all the rivers on this part of the coast are in some way connected in the interior, as it is stated by the natives, tiiat a canoe entering the river Sierpe, at point Violine, can rejoin the sea at point Mala de los Indios. POINTS UBITA, IX)MINICAL, QUEPOS, &c. 45 to point Ubita, and is in general bol(J and cliffy. At rather more than 3 miles from point Mala de los ludios, a cluster of rocks above water, named Ballenita, will be recognised by their peculiar form, being slender in shape and pointed. Outside these, at a mile more to seaward, is a large rock, the Ballena, covered with guano ; it is surrounded by a rocky ledge, which extends from it some little distance in a W.S.W. direction, and should consequently be approached with care ; — it is said that the sea always breaks upon this ledge. Point ubita has some rocks jutting off from it, and these are followed by a reef, under shelter of which, in what is called port Ubita, vessels of any size, it is said, may obtain shelter. Boats can land here without difficulty, and water may be procured from a river which here falls into the sea by two mouths, one eastward and the other westward of the point. Point Dominical, distant 6J miles from point Ubita, is easily distinguished by its dark appearance, owing to the peculiar vegetation that covers it. The various projecting points between are well wooded, and there are several creeks of little importance. A wide berth should be given to the coast hereabout as sunken rocks exist, as far out as 1^ miles. At 2 miles westward from point Dominical the depth is 20 fathoms, muddy bottom, and here vessels may anchor in fine weather, or nearer the shore, according as it may be convenient ; the ground is good for holding. Point Quepos, &c. — Point Dominical is succeeded by a low sandy coast which trends 17 miles in a W. by N. ^ N. direction to point Naranjos, a bluff projection, and this again is followed by a low coast for a distance of 4 miles to point Quepos. In this extent there are four rivers, namedDomimcal,Barru, Savagre, and Naranjos, the last mentioned being on the east side of the point of that name ; none of these can, we believe, be ascended for any distance even by canoes. The Savagre is the most important of the rivers, and its banks are the most visited by the Indians. The coast between points Dominical and Naranjos is believed to be clear of sunken dangers. It is stated that vessels may ran along it at the distance of 2 miles in a depth of 19 to 24 and 27 fathoms, green mud. A nearer approach than this should not be made, the locality having been only very imperfectly examined. In the vicinity of Naranjos point is a group of islets, having sunken rocks about them ; the largest and easternmost is of reddish colour. At a mile outside these islets the depth is 25 to 27 fathoms, mud. Quepos point is of moderate height and covered with trees. On its west side are some rocks situated some distance fi'om the land, under shelter of which boats may anchor. In the immediate neighbourhood of this point, between it and Naranjos point, are some islets of similar character and appearance to those described in the preceding paragraph ; the largest, Manuel Antonio, shelters a small sandy creek, which is occasionally a resort for turtle fishers. There is no passage between these islets and the land. Point ncaia. — From Quepos point to point Mala or Judas, the coast trends westerly about 24 miles, and is low and flat the whole distance. At about a mile from Quepos point is the little river Veija ; 2 miles from this is thixt of Las Damas ; and 5f miles farther westward is the river Pirri. These rivers are of no value to shipping. Upon 46 PORT IIEnP.ADUnA. the wholo of this coast the surf beats with great violence, rendering a landing almost impossible with a strong southerly wind. The soundings at 2 miles from shore are 12 to IG fathoms, fine sand, which increase as point Mala is approached, and the sand becomes mixed with mud. Point Mala is very low, and covered with trees and mangroves. A reef extends from it in a southerly direction about li miles, upofl which arc some islets and rocks. The bottom in the immediate vicinity of this reef is very irregular, changing suddenly from 18 to 11 fathoms on a bottom of coarse sand and broken shells. When rounding the point, more than ordinary care is required, there being no objects on shore by which' the position of the outer part of the reef may be known ; the current off it is always westerly, but varies in strength from 1 to 2 miles an hour, according to the wind. It will be prudent not to get into a less depth hereabout than 30 to 25 fathoms. From point Mala a low sandy coast continues in an almost straight line 6.^ miles in a N.W. by W. direction to a bold headland known as point Guapilon, the termination of the high laud which at only 3^ miles N.E. by N. from it rises to the height of 2172 feet. All this coast has a shoal extending from it some distance, causing breakers in blowing weather. At about half a mile off the headland there is a dangerous rock, awash at low water, known as Escollo rock ; on account of which it will be prudent not to approach the coast hereabout nearer than the depth of 24 fathoms. At 2 miles north- westward from point Mala is the little river Tusulubre, the position of which is readily recognised. Port Kerradura. — From point Guapilon the coast maintains the direction of N.W. by W. for 3^ miles to a little bay named Herradura, where good shelter may be obtained from all winds except those from westward. It is formed on the north side by a bold rocky point, from which a reef extends nearly 3 cables ; and on the south side by a similar point of land, but bolder, as it consists of a rounded hill with very high land immediately behind it. Attached to the south point by areef dry at low tide is an islet, numed Cano, which is nearly of the same height as the point ; this islet has also a reef extending about a cable from it on all sides. When the bay was surveyed in 1852, the islet was covered with trees. Port Herradura has an extent east and west of about If miles, and is 1;^ miles wide from shore to shore. The soundings decrease from 20 fathoms at the entrance to 5 and 4 fathoms close to its head. It is, or was, uninhabited, and as it offers but fev^ inducements for a visit, vessels seldom resort to it. Good water in great abundance may be obtained from a stream which falls into its north-east part ; it is said that 20 casks may be filled at a time, if they are rolled into the basin. Communication with the interior is veiy difficult. The only known danger in port Herradura is a rock, named Havannah, situated in nearly the middle of the bay, upon which the sea breaks at half-tide. It has a depth over it of only 2 feet at low water spring-tides and is sometimes visible when there is a swell. It lies with a house on the beach bearing N.E. § N. -^% of a mile, and Cano pinnacle S.W. by S. -^^ of a mile. At full and change of the moon the tide rises 9i feet. When running into port Herradura, it should be remembered that the reef on each GULF OF NICOYA AND PUNTA ARENAS. 47 side is very steep. Having eutiered, the usual place of anchorage is off the watering place, in about 5 fathoms. The approximate geographical position of the watering basin is lat. 9° 38' 30", long. 84° 36'. GULP or NICOYA.— This large gulf is oueofthemostimportant places of resort on the west coast of Central America. It extends about 50 miles into the land in a north-westerly direction, and is 25 miles wide at the entrance — between port Herradura and cape Blanco, but it soon begins to decrease in width and at its head is only 6 miles across. It contains numerous islands, all lying off the western shore, some of which ai'e of con- siderable extent ; most of these are covered with trees, and in 1852 were uninhabited. Chira, the largest island, is at the head of the gulf; vessels of very light draught of watfir can sail round it, but as the channel is intricate, it is necessary to obtain the assistance of some one having a knowledge of the locality. San Lucas island, im- mediately opposite Punta Arenas, has good anchorage on its north side, to which vessels may run with facility. At present, 1867, the only place of trade is Punta Arenas, on the east coast, at about half-way up the gulf.* East coast of the Gulf. — From Herradura point the coast trends northward about 2^ miles to point Sucia, off which a rocky ledge extends westward one mile, and partly shows at low tide ; close to the outer edge of this ledge, there is deep water of 18 to 25 fathoms. Thence the coast turns round to N.E. | N. 4^ miles, and then trends north-westward, 10 miles, to Calderas bluff, a high rocky point, eastward of which is port Calderas, formerly the principal port in the gulf, but now deserted. Calderas was genei*ally considered to bo unhealthy to all new residents, and the higher author- ities usually managed to excuse residence. Funta Arenas. — From Calderas bluff the coast trends round to the north-west- ward 8 miles, to Arenas point, off which a bank of 34 and 4^ fathoms extends 2^ miles in a southerly direction, having a small spot of 10 to 12 feet upon it; this spot lies with the extremity of the point bearing N. ^ W,, 1^ miles, and the Pan de Azucar W.S.W. i S., 3f miles. The bank is very steep on the western side, deepening suddenly from 7 to 22 fathoms ; but not so on the eastern side, the soundings from it to the eastern coast being 5 to 8, 9 and 7 fathoms. Arenas point has a shelf of mud extending about a mile westward from it, which is awash at low water. It forms the south bank of a small stream, which has its outlet immediately northward of it. On the north side of this river there is another shelf of mud, which also becomes dry at low water. Upon this point there is a small fixed light, the visibility of which is reported (1878) to be very feeble, Punta Arenas was once a free port; but since January 1861, customs' duties, &c., have been collected. It is (or was) the most important commercial place on the Pacific coast of Central America; and it is the only port of the State of Costa Rica, on the Pacific, frequented by vessels. During recent years it has greatly deteriorated, owing to the partial filling up of the harbour and the restrictive policy of the present Government. * "When bound into the gulf of Nicoya, shipmasters should provide themselves with the Adn>iralty chart No. 1931-, as it sbowa the navigation on a large scale. 48 GULF OF NICOYA. The vlllago of Punta Areuas, has, we believe, a population of about 1500. The inner anchorage, named the Estero, situated northward of the point, admits at high tide vessels drawing 10 to 13 feet, and can be entered only with a pilot's assistance. The outer anchorage, southward of the point, will accommodate all ordinary vessels, the depth being 5 to 7 fathoms ; but this anchorage, being exposed to southerly winds, can be considered safe only during fine weather or with the wind from the land. The anchorage usually selected during the fine season, from November to June, is immediately southward of the point, with the Pan de Azucar bearing about S.W. ^ W., or Aves islet S.W. The vessel will here be at about a mile from the beach, in 5| to 6^ fathoms on fine muddy sand, and in a position to communicate freely with the village. In winter it is necessary to anchor farther out, on account of the incon- venience occasioned by the heavy rollers sent in from the south-westward, which tend to carry the vessel on shore. The position recommended is in 5^ to 6^ fathoms, mud over sand, with the custom-house bearing N.W. by N., or the lighthouse N.N.W., and the Pan de Azucar about W.S.W.* It should be remarked that the soundings which in the passage from the Nigretas islets to the anchorage decrease gradually from 20 and 17 fathoms, to 4^ fathoms ou the bank bounding the anchorage, increase again towards the eastern coast to 10 and 9 fathoms. In the immediate vicinity of Calderas bluff, the depth is 15 to 12 fathoms. When at anchor it is recommended to moor S.E. and N.W. The holding ground is not good, and the anchors are liable to be fouled by the flux and reflux of the sea, and by the moving of the vessel during the sea and land breezes. It is high water on the days of full and change of the moon at 3h. 10m. The tide rises about 10 feet. Water for shipping is obtained at the river Baranca, 7 miles eastward from the anchorage. The bar can be crossed only at half-flood, or a little before half ebb. The best water is obtained at about a mile from the entrance. Only boats can ascend the river, and the channel is very tortuous. The vessel should be anchored at about 1$ miles from the river, in 6^ fathoms. We believe, abundance of fresh provisions can be obtained at Punta Arenas, but some difficulty may be experienced in obtaining cattle. West coast of the Gulf. — Cape Blanco, the west extreme of the gulf of Nicoya, is of moderate height and covered with trees even to the beach. The land, of whichit is the southern termination, is sufficiently high to be visible from a distance of about 25 miles, especially whenbeai-ing about N.N.W. At a considerable offing it somewhat resembles an island, but a nearer approach reveals some white spots which help to distinguish the cape from the back land. At about a mile southward from it is an islet, of light colour, without verdure. This islet is surrounded by a rocky ledge, which dries at low tide, and has deep vf&iev of 10 to 30 fathoms immediately southward of it ; between it and the shore the depth is 4 1^ to 9 fathoms. • Mr. Hull, R.N., H.M.S. Havana, 1859 saj's "the light at Pimta Arenas is plainly visible south- ward of the Sail rock. By not bringing it eastward of N.N.W. vessels will be clear of all danger till the anchorage be reached. We came to in 6 fathoms, with the lighthouse bearing N.N.W. i W., distant G miles. Both ebb and flood set strongly over the Punta Arenas bank," GULF OF NICOYA. 40 From cape Blanco, the western side of the gulf trends 11 miles to the N.E. by N., and is free from outlying dangers, except that at about 2^ miles from the cape, a ledge of rocks, partly above and partly under water, runs one mile off the shore, and has deep water of 17 fathoms close to its outer edge. At the end of this distance, 11 miles, the coast bends a little inwards, forming a small bay, named Ballena, where are soundings of 18 and 9 fathoms, shoaling gradually towards its head, which is low land covered with mangroves. The north side of Ballena bay, Ballena head, is of moderate height, and steep, having 14 fathoms at a short distance from it. Thence the coast trends N.E. ^ N., about 8 miles to the Nigretas islands, and there are, at about midway, two islands separated from the shore by a narrow channel navigable by boats, named Jasper and Alcatraz, of which the former is the easternmost. The Nigretas are two islands close to each other, which run off 2f miles from the coast ; from the eastern one a ledge of rocks extends a quarter of a mile eastward, and has near its extremity a large rock known as the Sail or Ship rock. From the Nigretas islands the coast trends to the N.N.W., 6^ miles, and has several islands off it, lying more or less near the shore ; of these, the largest, about two milea westward of Nigretas islands, is named Cedro. At the end of this distance are the islands Aves, Pan de Azucar, and San Lucas ; these are surrounded by shoals to a short distance, hut separated from each other by soundings of 7 to 11 fixthoms. The channel up the gulf northward of San Lucas islands, between them and the bank extending from point Arenas, has a considerable width and depth of 18 to 27 fathoms, muddy bottom. Thence up the gulf, and failing a pilot, the eye and steady use of the lead will be the best guides. Directions. — The entrance to the gulf of Nicoya is so wide that no difficulty whatever is experienced in making it. It is usual to steer for cape Blanco, keeping a little east- wai'd of its meridian, and afterwards to direct the course into the gulf; but it appears probable that some advantage would be gained if the land about Herradura were mad© instead of the cape, as the effect of the westerly current would thereby be to some extent neutralised, ^a mile or two would also be saved in the subsequent route to Punta Arenas. Having entered the gulf, keep along the eastern shore, as it is shallower than the opposite coast, and also because the effects of the ebb stream, which southward of the Nigretas islands flows south-westward, will not be so strongly felt. The soundings, although great, are not so deep, but that the anchor can be let go in the event of being overtaken with a calm and a contrary current. The flood has occasionally considerable strength, and requires to be guarded against as its tendency is towards the Nigretas islands, in the vicinity of which the water is very deep ; close to the south side of the Sail rock the depth is 24 fathoms, deepening rapidly seaward to 36 fathoms. The course thence to Punta Arenas is direct and clear of any known sunken danger. The bank extending southward from the point has already been mentioned. The following instructions were written in 1843, and are added because they supply some useful hints : — " The entrance of the gulf is safe ; the tides, however, at times run strongly, especially at the full and change of the moon. There is ebb and flood, but the former is of longer continuance and much stronger than the latter. To run in, keep eastward of the meridian of cape Blanco, which is the westerly part 50 GULF OF NICOYA. of the gulf ; and should you round the cape at the distance of 1 to 3 miles, the course will he ahout N.E. ; or, if you should be about half-way between the cape and port Hen'adura, the eastern side of the gulf, it will be a little more northerly. Having sighted the Nigretas, on the port bow, a rocky point will be observed a little eastward of them, having the appearance of a vessel, and hence called the Ship rock, to •which give a good berth, leaving it on the port hand. Haul then over to the starboard coast, that in the event of it falling calm and an ebb tide, you may ancher in shallow water ; whereas, if becalmed, with an ebb tide, when near the Ship rock, it would be difficult to find anchorage, at least in not less than 20 to 30 fathoms ; and if unable to anchor, the ebb tide, which is veiy strong in this part of the gulf, would drive the vessel back again past cape Blanco. Steer along the starboard coast, so as to pass the extreme points at a distance of from 2 to 3 miles, and you will soon perceive the custom-house of Punta Arenas, towards which shape your course, and as soon as the village is seen, bring the custom house to bear N.N.W., or the middle of the village N. by W., when you will be in from 13 to 8 fathoms, and see in the distance the point named Punta Arenas. Farther out there is a heavy breaking of the sea, occasioned by some sand banks, which run out a great distance, and partly dry at low water. Westward of these banks are the islands of San Lucas ; eastward of which, between them and the banks, there is good anchorage, but in deep water. Merchant vessels prefer lying closer in, on account of the proximity of the landing- place and stores. The course indicated above leads ships to this anchorage. The leading mark is the custom-house on with the flag-staff of the port. The depth is about 8 fathoms, muddy bottom, at from a half to 3 cables from the shore. The banks above alluded to have a tendency to augment and change their position, and the safest course is to keep the custom-house a little open eastward of the flag-staff, keeping the lead constantly going ; and should the water shoal, to haul immediately to starboard. If desirous to come to anchor on heaving a ship to, at some 2 or 3 miles from the port, in order to obtain a pilot, it may safely be done, until one comes off and carries you to the place desired. The custom-house is easily known by its white painted roof; but it should be care- fully borne in mind that, from the rapid progress the sea appeared to be making upon this spot, it may soon he removed and another built elsewhere." It has been stated that ships from southward should make cape Blanco, to obtain a fresh departure for their intended port. Such is the course recommended by the writer of the foregoing directions, who considers it better than to make a direct course for the volcano of Beija, because in winter the winds are light, variable, and attended Avith calms, and it is frequently the case that the high land is obscured by mists or haze, which renders navigation difficult even to those Mell acquainted with the coast. GeograpJiical Position. — The approximate position of cape Blanco (islet off the cape) is lat. 9° 33', long. 85" 4' 10". The COAST from cape Blanco trends north-westward and westward nearly 40 miles to a point of land named Morro Hermoso, from which a reef extends a short distance ; afterwards it bends round to N.W. | N., 28 miles to point Velas, so named from its resemblance to a sail, off which are some islets and rocks. It is recommended to give CULEBRA BAY. 51 all this laud a good berth, to avoid any sunken dangers there may be; for it has not been closely examined. It is represented to be, in general, high land covered with trees, with occasionally some sandy plains and small deep bays. From point Velas the coast trends 14 miles north-eastward to point Gorda, the south-west extremity of Culebra bay.=i= The coast between points Velas and Gorda is quite unknown. It is said to have some islands off it, the outermost of which is named Brumel. Point Gorda, viewed from southward, appears as a great rounded hill with a slight indentation in the middle of its summit ; it is higher than the country in its vicinity and its highest part is near the sea. CXTLSCRA BAY. — Port Culebra, the north-eastern part of Culebra bay, is an inlet running about 4 miles into the coast, in a north-easterly direction. At its entrance it is about a mile wide, with soundings of 10 to 20 fathoms, which depth increases gradually towards the head of the bay, where there are 9 to 6 fathoms. On the south side of the entrance are some islets, or rocks, at a short distance from the shore, called the South Yiradorcs ; and on the north side are also two similar rocks, called the North Viradores. Captain Sir E. Belcher observed the head of the bay to be in lat. 10° 36' 55", long. 85° 33' 30". After mentioning various difficulties experienced in finding the port, he describes it in the following terms : — *' At daylight on Sunday, the 25th of March, 1833, we were close off the port, but not being able to detect the Viradores, we wore, and intended running further south; as Kellet had informed me that, in his search for me, he had been unable to find it. While in the act of wearing, a gleam of sunshine showed an island in-shore, which induced me to make another attempt, and on reaching to windward we opened the heads and discovered the Viradores ; but even then could only ascertain from the mast-head that any recess of the bay lay within. At noon we entered the heads, and at 3h. anchored in 8 fathoms in this splendid i)ort, justly deserving that appellation. The port is certainly magnificent, and, from information derived from the natives, I learned that it is connected with Salinas, and thence on to Nicaragua, Granada, &c. If any railway be contemplated in this quarter, it ought to enter at the bay of Salinas, * The coast westward of capo Blanco as far as Culebra bay is ver}' imperfectly represented in charts, as the delineation is chiefly derived from a sketch obtained during a running survey by Capt. T. A. Hull, R.N., in 1851). M. Lapelin of the French surveying vessel Brilliante in 1852, gives the name of Guiones to a pohit of land 30 miles YV.N.W. from cape Blanco, which we suppose to be the Morro Hei-moso of Hull's chart, although the latter is there represented 8 miles farther west- ward. M. Lapelin approached cape Blanco from westward and observes " All the coast between points Gorda and Guiones is high and wooded and bordered with a strand of white sand interrupted here and there by cliffs of reddish colour having rocks at their base over which the sea breaks. We coasted it at the distance of 2 to 3 miles, and had soundings of 24 to 27 fathoms. Point Velas is unknown to the pilots. In the positions assigned to points Velas and Morro Heimoso we found neither point nor hill ; it was only in lat. 9° 53', long. 85° 52', that is to say, in a position 21 miles more south and 12 miles more west than that assigned to point Velas, that we met with a greyish coloured clitf surmounted by trees, and having breakers at its base to the distance seaward of apparently 1^ miles. The sea broke upon some detached rocks, which lie iu a considerable number southward of a white sandy islet, upon which are two rocks resembling sails at a distance. Having from this point run along the coast about 20 miles in an E. by S. direction, we discovered that the land then trended S.E. to cape Blanco. All this coast is steep and covered with trees ; the hilis were seldom more lofty than those of the country behind the cape ; and the sandy beach inte)siiersed in many places by rocky points which formed little sheltered bays, offered great facilities fur a landing." E 2 52 MURCIELAGOS ISLANDS, ELENA AND SALINAS BAYS. ■which would render these two ports important. When this portion of the country becomes settled, civilized, and more populous, I little doubt but Culebra will be better known, and probably the chief port of the state of Nicaragua. AVater, fit for consumption, was not found at the beach, but may be obtained a short distance up the creek, which a boat may enter at high water. If wells were dug, doubtless it would bo found at the N.W. side, and the surrounding country is moun- tainous. Another indication in favour of this is the thickly wooded sides and summits, as well as bright gi-cen spots of vegetation throughout the bay. Brasil wood is very abundant. Mahogany and cedar were observed near the beach, but, as people have been employed cutting the brasil, probably all the mahogany and cedar, easily attainable, has been taken." From port Culebra the coast trends to the N.N.W. about 20 miles to cape Elena, northward of which are Elena and Salinas bays. All this shore is quite unknown and as usually represented in charts is believed to bo very badly delineated ; it is said to have some islets ofl" it of considerable size. Cape Elena is an elevated promontory of a triangular form, the ridge of the promontory being veiy in*egular in outline, having a somewhat serrated aspect, while its northern side is an unbroken steep escarpment without any indication of verdure. iMurcieiagos Islands. — On the southern side of the remarkable cape just described is a cluster of islands, known as Murcielagos or Bat islands. They are but imperfectly represented on the chart, as little is known concerning them. Two rocks extend sea- ward of them more than a mile in a westerly direction, hence they must be cautiously approached. These islands form almost two distinct harbours; in the inner one vessels can anchor in 32 fathoms, with a hawser fast to the shore. Springs ai-e numerous and there are tolerable rivulets, where fresh-water can be obtained ; but the surf is very great, and gulf squalls are frequent and violent. About 3 miles north-eastward of cape Elena is the point of the same name, whence the coast trends easterly and then northerly, forming the bay of Elena. Elena Bay. — Elena bay is an open bay having an extent from north to south of about 4 miles ; at its head in its south-east corner, is a small inlet of 11 to 4f fiithoms, named Tomas bay, in which vessels might perhaps be able to anchor and obtain pro- tection from westerly winds, — but this is uncertain. Elena bay is quite open to all •vvrnds from westward. Off the entrance of Tomas bay, at about a mile from the shore, ai-e some rocks above water, known as Vagares; and at about 2 miles N.N.E. from these is the small island, Juanilla, inside of which is a depth of 7 to 11 fathoms. The north shore has also an islet off it, named Despensa. The water in this bay is very deep, there being 30 fathoms at 2 miles from its head; whence it shoals gradually to Juanilla island. As there is good anchorage in Salinas bay vessels seldom enter Elena bay. SALi.TAS BAY, northward of Elena bay, is sepai'ated from it by a bold headland, terminating in point Descarte. It is a little more than 3 miles in extent, with sound- ings of 12 fathoms at the entrance, which decrease gradually to 4^ and 2 fathoms at its head, on sand and mud. The northern shore is high land; the southern is com- paratively low and flat. In the south part of the bay, at a short distance from the SAN JUAN DEL SUE. 53 beaeh, are some rocks above and uudei* water; and near the centre of the bay is a little island, named Salinas, under shelter of which vessels anchor during winter, and find protection from westerly winds. The geographical position of Salinas island, according to the determination of Gapt. Sir E. Belcher, R.N., is lat. 11° 2' 50", long, 85° 39' 9". When bound into Salinas bay it is advisable to give a wide berth to point Descarte, because reefs are said to run off from it, in a westerly direction, upwards of a mile. A good mark is the north peak of Orosi, 5200 feet high, situated about 12 miles inland, bearing E, f S. (S. 83° E.), as this will lead to the bay. The depth on the south- east side of Salinas island is shallow for nearly half a mile. The Coast from Salinas bay to San Juan bay trends 12^ miles in a N.W. ^ W. direction; it has not been surveyed, and should have a wide berth given to it. Cape Nathan, in lat. 11° 8', has some rocks off it above water, and there are also some similar rocks at about midway between this point and San Juan ; all these rocks lie off the land at a considerable distance, and as there may be sunken dangers in their vicinity, it will be prudent to avoid approaching near them. ittountains. — In approaching from seaward considerable assistance in discovering port San Juan is afforded by the mountains Mombacho (4482 feet high), Ometepo (5050 feet), Madera (4190 feet), Orosi (5199 feet), and Miravalles (4700 feet). Mombacho, in lat. 11° 48^', long. 85° 54 i^', bears a strong resemblance to the volcano San Salvador (in lat. 13° 49', long. 89° 10'), but is not sufficiently lofty to be seen from all directions by an observer at only a few miles from the land. The pointed sum- mit of Ometepe, in lat. 11° 32', long. 85° 34', and the large saddle-shaped summit of Madera, in lat. 11° 27', long. 85° 27^', can be seen in clear weather above the hills between them and the coast. The volcano Orosi, in lat. 10° 59', long. 85° 25', is frequently obscured by clouds ; when not so hidden it will be recognised by its double pointed summit, which resembles the pointed roof of two towers, connected by a vast ridge. Miravalles, in lat. 10° 39' 40", long, about 85°, can also be seen from almost all directions seaward. From San Juan, the summit of Ometepe bears N.E. by N., and that of Madera N.E. f E. SB.N jv&N DEL SUR. — The bay of San Juan del Sur is small, being only about half a mile across. It is situated in about lat. 11° 16', long. 85° 49', and is by no mean esasy to find, even when running down the coast, the little bays being all of similar character and appearance. High land surrounds the bay on every side, excepting towards the S.S.W. and W. by S. quarters, in which directions it is open to the ocean. At its head the beach is low and sandy, and on each side the land juts out towards the sea, forming promontories of 400 to 500 feet high. The entrance from the sea is clear, with a depth of water of 9, 8, 7, and 6 fathoms, decreasing gradually to 3 fathoms at the distance of 300 yards from the beaeh. In every part there is moderately good anchorage, generally on a muddy bottom; and the rise of tide is from 10 to 14 feet. The prevailing winds on this part of the coast are North and N.E., which blow occasionally with considerable violence ; and when such is the case, vessels may some- times experience some difficulty in making the bay. Fresh-water can be obtained at a short distance from the beach. The nearest town is Nicaragua which is distant 7 or 8 leagues. 54 GULF OF THE PAPAGAYOS. Directions. — Vessels approaching the port of Juan should bring the conical peat of Ometepe (which rises 5050 feet out of lake Nicaragua, 22 miles distant from the coast) to bear N.E. by N., and run in on that bearing till the peak is hidden by the coast rant^e; they will then have the harbour ahead, distant about 5 miles. Coming along the coast from the southward, when within 5 or 6 miles of tho port, three isolated rocks will be observed standing off tho coast, apparently about one milo apart, and when near the entrance, which is bold on either side, a small house near a large tree may be seen on the hill over the right-hand side of the bay. The usual anchorage is in 5 to G fathoms near a large iron buoy moored in 5 fathoms opposite the town.- At the distance of loss than a mile from San Juan del Sur, there is another port named Nacascolo, which is of nearly the same size and figure ; and, as the land between them is lowand nearly level, they might be united by a cut, were it thought necessary.f M. de Lapelin, 1852, does not write favourably of the bay of San Juan. " It is usual to anchor outside the port in 8l to 11 fathoms, nearer the south than the north side of the bay, and always close to a little bed of rocks which reduces the breadth of the entrance. The bottom, consisting of sand and broken shells, is a very indifferent holding ground against the violence of noi'th-east squalls, and its sharp declivity towards the sea still further increases the difficulty of the anchor retaining its hold ; this declivity is, however, of some advantage during the prevalence of West and S.W. winds, which sometimes in winter blow with considerable violence. At this outer anchorage, with on-shore winds, the loss of a vessel is unknown, although instances have occurred of vessels dragging their anchors. The port consists of a little bay open to all winds from seaward. The bottom, of the same description as the exterior anchorage, does not hold better, and as the anchoring ground is very limited in extent, it will be prudent not to enter the bay but remain outside. Except perhaps in winter, small vessels may, however, obtain shelter behind the rocks of the north point. It is not difficult to effect a landing, as boats ground at some little distance from the beach and the surf is not very heavy. Water is obtained from a well, and is of indifferent quality ; it is small in quantity and not easily got. With the exception of fresh provisions at an extravagant price, we could obtain no supplies." GUtr or THE PAPAGAYOS. — The portion of coast described in the preceding paragraphs, from Port Culebra to the bay of San Juan del Sur, or perhaps as far north- ward as cape Desolada (see page 56), is known as the gulf of the Papagayos ; these are violent winds, which blow with such considerable strength as frequently to cause the loss of spars and rigging. They commence about the meindian of Leon, long. 86° 50', and when approaching * Capt. G. F. Emmons, U.S. steamer Ossipee, 1869. t The government of Nicaragua decreed in about the year 1840, the erection of houses and the buildings necessary for making San Juan bay a port of commerce, but in 1852 there were only a few wooden buildings pompously called hotels. GULF OF THE PAPAGAYOS. 55 from westward, are first lelt off cape Desolada, about 10 miles eastward of Realpjo. They decrease about suuset, and attain their greatest force about nine or ten o'clock in the morning. Captain Sir E. Belcher, R.N., says of this wind or breeze, that its limits may be considered to be included in a line drawn from cape Desolada to point Velas ; and it is rather a curious phenomenon, that its strength seldom ranges so far as this chord, but seems to prefer a curve at a distance of 15 to 20 miles from the land. Captain Marie says "In this part of the coast and as far as the entrance of the gulf of the Papagayos, the winds are very light, with frequent calms ; the tides setting sti'ong from the N .W. Custom recommends steering along the coasts in tlie gulf, as by so doing it is thought that the squalls are less severe, the winds more steady, and the sea much smoother. I have frequently crossed the gulf, sometimes close in shore, and at other times been forced, by strong winds from N.N.E. to N.N.W., to keep the offing. In the summer time I have navigated in this locality both near to, and at a distance from the coast, and in both cases met with strong winds, accompanied with sudden and heavy squalls, which are almost immediately followed by calms ; great care is therefore necessary. I have always taken the precaution to keep from one to three reefs in the topsails, taking care promptly to shorten sail when the squalls came on, and then keeping as close to the wind as possible, with a good full sail, so as easily to make cape Desolado, and have thus been enabled to cross the gulf with this sort of weather in about 12 or 15 hours. The winds generally enable ships to make a N.W. course, but in order to keep in with the coast it i^ desirable, as the squalls subside, to steer, if possible, a little to windward of that point." M. de Lapelin states " In the gulf of Papagayos, and on other parts of this coast, northerly gusts come without any announcement, being felt suddenly with a cloudless sky equally as when there is a calm or fog. In accordance with the opinions of most navigators, I consider that it is better to keep along the land at the distance of 5 or 6 miles than to get out to sea, because at this distance the gusts, although perhaps more sudden, have less strength and have not such long intervals between them — sometimes indeed these intervals did not exist at all, and instead of them is met a continuous breeze freshening every moment. If the opinion of Sir E. Belcher, R.N., be correct that the gusts prevail most at the distance of 15 to 20 miles from land, it follows that if the shore cannot be coasted at the distance of 5 or 6 miles, it would be better to keep outside at about 30 or even 45 miles from land ; the gusts will there to a considerable extent lose their force and become less sudden, the sea also will not be so heavy and trying. As the vessel advances northerly towards the coast, the direction of the wind becomes more easterly, and it is often possible to reach Realejo in a direct course without tacking." The COAST. — From San Juan del Sur to Tamarinda river the coast trends about N.W. f W. 75 miles ; it is somewhat bold but remarkably little undulated, and it contains here and there sandy creeks* and cliffs against which latter the sea breaks with violence. This coast is very imperfectly known, but it is believed that, with the exception of the • Brito, a small bay about 8 miles northward from San Juan, has been proposed as a terminus of a canal from the lake of Nicaragua. Northward of Brito are several similar small bays of little importance. 5G TAMARINDA, CAPE DESOLADA. Industrie rock, a 15-foot patch lying 8^ miles off shore, iu lat. 12° 4' 40", loDg. 86° 43' 10", there are no detached sunken dangers, beyond the distance of one to 1| miles from the coast. In the vicinity of Tamarinda the coast is described as drowned land, being of a much lower elevation than that to the southward or northward. Within the coast just described are the great lakes of Nicaragua and Managua, and near the head of the former will be seen the volcano of Mombaeho which bears a closo resemblance to that of San Salvador, being a rounded mountain whose summit rises to a peak. TAMAKINBA. — Tho rivcr Tamarinda, situated in lat. 12° 9^', about 28 miles S.E. byE. (true) from Corinto (liealejo), is one of the principal places in Nicaragua, whence Cedar wood is shipped. The depot, composed of a few huts, lies 6 or 7 miles within the entrance of the river. It can be reached at high water springs by vessels drawing nearly 20 feet, but great caution is required as the bottom is rocky and very irregular. Out- side tho entrance the depth is 4 to 6 fathoms ; here vessels may anchor, but only daring fine weather, as it is extremely dangerous during the bad season. The entrance-channel ia considerably narrowed by sand-banks, also by two rocks, the northern of which is covered at high water. If intending to enter the river a vessel should first moor close in shore, and, while waiting for wind and tide, place buoys, &c., to indicate the channel. When proceeding up the river it will be necessary to tow or warp to the trees. In the channel the least depth is 15 feet ; the rise of tide 8 to 12 feet. At springs the flood-tide isvery violent. Supplies. — Besides fresh meat, which can be obtained only once a week, no provisions are obtainable, and water cannot be procured without much difficulty. The COAST. — North-westward of Tamarinda the coast becomes gradually more elevated, forming an extensive escarpment (^m/rau^, known as Cos^rtTosca, whichhas the appearance of having been scorched by a tropical sun. Costa Tosca is succeeded by a low sandy shore, which continues until the cliffs of cape Desolada are reached iu lat. 12° 21', long. 8G° 58' 51".* The whole extent of this coast is noted to be extremely unhealthy. Between Tamarinda and cape Desolada there are three small loading places, the most important of which is that named San Martin. This small port is about 10 miles from Tamarinda and consists simply of a few huts, abreast which vessels can anchor in 10 fathoms water, good holding ground. Communication with the land is very difficult in consequence of the surf which exists continually. Abreast the coast at Tamarinda the soundings appear to indicate the existence of a flat bottom of 16 fathoms depth. At 6 miles off Costa Tosca, the bottom, consisting of mud, has a depth of 16 to 18 fathoms, falling suddenly to 22 fathoms a short distance farther off. Northward of Tamarinda as far as San Martin, rocks extend off shore to the distance of a mile. ( Description of coast here yicen is uncertain. ) Cape Desolada may be recognised by its desolate appearance. Its rocky cliffs, though * This position of cape Desolada is in accordance with the description of the coast given by French navigators. According to English charts cape Desolada is situated about 30 miles farther southward, in about lat. 12^ 1', long. 86° 374'. See Instructions Natitiques (599) sur Us cotes ouest du Centre-Amerique et du Mexiquc, by M, A. Pailhes, 1879, pp. 33 — 35 ; also Annales Hydrograj)hique$, vol. xl., 1877, pp. 393—397. MARABK)S MOUNTAINS. 57 not of great height, are steep ; and, as rocks extend seaward from them a distance of about 4 miles a wide berth shoukl be given them by passing vessels. On the western side of the point is (or was in 1852) a little jilateau, with stunted trees upon it, and its south-east side is of reddish colour and bare of vegetation. As cape Desolada is approached the sandy beach will be observed to be bounded in some places by little wooded cliffs, while in other parts rocks extend out a short distance into the sea. From cape Desolada to Caslanon bluff the coast is very low'and sandy, but well wooded. It is believed that there are no detached dangers lying off it, with the exception of the Conway,* a dangerous reef situated about three miles south-eastward of Castanon bluff, in about lat. 12° 25', long. 87° 5'. In this locality the bottom, which consists of sand and mud, is much deeper the same distance from shore than to the northward of port Corinto (Realejo), there being soundings of 10 to 22 fathoms at a distance of only 2 to 6 miles from the shore. wiountains. — The mountains in the vicinity of Realejo are very lofty and visible from many miles at sea ; they are known as the Marabios mountains. Commencing with Momotombo on the shore of lake Managua, which is said to be 6000 feet high, they advance almost parallel to the coast and terminate in that named Coseguina, on the south-east side of the gulf of Fonseca, which is estimated to have an elevation of 8800 feet. When viewed from the sea off Realejo, at an offing of some miles from the land, at least eight of these remarkable mountains can be seen at one time, supposing the weather to be favourable ; of these Viejo and Momotombo are very conspicuous and easily recognised not only by their great height but by their form and position. The peaks in succession from Momotombo are Axusco, Las Pilas, Orota, Telica, Santa Clara, and Viejo. Viejo mountain appears in the offing opposite Realejo as a magnificent cone, having a perceptible cavity at its summit ; it is 5557 feet high, and apparently rises from other mountains, of which the smallest and westernmost has a well marked conical form. Momotombo, an active volcano, is a lofty mountain whose sides are at a very sharp angle ; it rises from lake Managua, forming as boldly and well defined as a pyramid, and hence cannot fail to be recognised at once, especially as it terminates the chain of mountains in an easterly direction. When viewed from the sea at some distance south- ward of Realejo, Momotombo appears as an immense isolated mountain, but when seen from Cardon island it is joined to Axusco, a volcano of less height, the two mountains then revealing themselves as perfect cones, f Las Pilas, 3015 feet high, has two rounded summits of almost equal height which give its top a saddle-shaped appearance ; it is not sufficiently lofty to be seen from the offing ; this volcano became active in 1850, after remaining quiet many years, a crater having then opened at its base. Telica is * The Conway reef should have a wide berth given to it, as the bottom in its immediate vicinity is so very irregular that there may be dangerous sunken rocks near it. If the west point of Cardon island be kept open of Castanon blufif, about N.W. i W., it will clear it in 7 fathoms on its south side ; this is quite close enough to approach the reef. •f In the lake Managua, near Momotombo mountain, is an island which rises into a mountain of conical form, named Momotombita. This is of much less elevation than Momotombo and not visible from the port of Realejo, but it is very distinctly seen over the land, when advancing southward along the coast. The two mountains are similar in shape. 58 PORT CORINTO OR REALEJO. the most remarkalile of the inouataias between Las Pilas and Viejo ; it is a cone of extreiuel}' regular outline, which appears to be connected to Viejo, of which it has about half the altitude, but from which it is in reality separated by a wide interval containing the mountain Santa Clara ; — on the eastern side the mountain Orota is between it and Las Pilas. Having obtained sight of and recognised these mountafns, it is easy to make the port of Corinto (Realejo), even from a considerable distance in the offing, for both Viejo and Momotombo are visible at about 60 miles from land. If Viejo is brought to bear N.E. by N., and kept thus in approaching the coast it will lead to Cardon island, which is sufficiently high to be visible from a distance of 7 or 8 miles, where are soundings of 38 to 45 fiithoms. When Viejo is recognised, if it should be on a bearing eastward of N.E. by N., a course should be steered to get Momotombo on the bearing of E. | N., or Telica N.E. by E. i E., either of which will also lead to the port. If it should so happen that the mountains are hidden by clouds, it is necessary to make the land south-eastward of the port, somewhere in the vicinity of cape Desolada, because of the current which is almost always to the N.N.W.* The coast should then be followed in about 10 fathoms water, and care should be taken as Corinto (Realejo) is approached, to keep the west point of Cardon island well open westward of Castanon bluff, to avoid Conway reef ; on getting nearer the port the same end of Cardon island should not be brought westward of North on account of the Castanon shoals. CORINTO (REAitSJO). — Port Corinto, or Realejo, formed by the outlet of two rivers named Realejo and Telica, is situated in about lat. 12° 28'. It is without doubt one of the best harbours on the whole Pacific coast of Central America. It is protected from the force of the sea and winds by the peninsula of Castanon (on the southern side) ; also by the islands of Cardon and Asserradores. The beautiful basin {estero) within has soundings of -4 to 8 fathoms over the greater part of it. The land on each side of the entrance for some distance is low and wooded ; that south-eastward of it, close to the sea, is higher than that to north-westward, but its elevation is not more than 80 feet, and Castanon bluff is only 40 feet high. Cardon Island, in front of the port, divides the entrance into two channels, the Cardon on the north and the Barra Falsa on the south. This island is about three quarters of a mile long and a cable broad at the south end, whence it increases a little in width towards its other extremity. Though its gi'eatest elevation is only 80 feet above the sea, it appears high when compared with the surrounding low land. Its north-west part, cape Ponente, appears of a brownish red colour ; on the side towards the land are cliffs, w^hich are almost perpendicular. When viewed from some distance in a S.S.E. direction the north-west extremity of the island has the appearance of a huge rock separated from the island by a narrow channel. Viewed from seaward Cardon island appears not unlike a wedge, of which the highest part will be the cliffs just alluded to. Its western end consists of a sandy beach, and at its southern extremity are some * This is chiefly necessary in the months between November and May, as the usual winds are then from nortli-eastward and blow occasionally with considerable violence out of the gulf of the Papagayoa ; at such times a strong current sets along shore to the north-westward. PORT CORINTO OR REALEJO. 59 detached rocks. In 1852 there were only a few trees on its north and east pai-ts, the remainder was covered with little shrubs. These trees formed a valuable means of distinguishing the island from Manzana, an islet off the coast a few miles north-west of Corinto, which otherwise so closely resembles it as to be called the False Cardon. The lighthouse, lighted in 1875, also affords an excellent means of recognising the true island. Light, — K fixed ivliite light is exhibited from an octagonal wood lighthouse, painted white, erected on Cardon head, the north-east point of Cardon island. The light is 01 feet above the sea and visible 12 to 15 miles. Its geographical position is lat. 12° 27' 55" long 87° 7' 47". Barra Falsa. — This, the southern channel into Realejo harbour, is now partially filled up (18/5) and only fit for boats ; it lies between Cardon island and Castanon bluff. The latter will be easily recognised because it is the western part of three islands running ofi" from the main and connected to it and each other at low water by dry sand. This channel is three-quarters of a mile wide from shore to shore. Cardon Channel. — This is now (1875) the only navigable entrance into Corinto (Realejo) harbour. It lies round the north end of Cardon island, between it and Asserradores island, and is nearly three-quarters of a mile wide from shore to shore, but the breadth of the channel way is only one cable, being contracted to that width by the Sawyer bank, a shoal running off from the south-west end of Asserradores island ; the channel is consequently close under Cardon head. The depth on the shoalest part of Sawyer bank is only 3 feet, and its edge is very steep, the lead at once falling from 3 fathoms into 9 and 10 fathoms ; sometimes this edge is indicated by breakers, but more frequently not, for which reason and also because the tendency of the flood is towards it, additional care is required when in its immediate vicinity. Shoal water, having a dangerous patch at its extremity named Gorgon shoal, extends out a short distance from the north-west side of Cardon island. This patch lies nearly a cable North from the rock ofi" Ponente point, and there is a depth of about 6 fathoms close to it.* Cardon channel should not be attempted without a pilot, and especially because there are reasons for believing that considerable changes in it have taken place of recent years. It is reported that soundings of 23 feet are to be found at low water on the bar in the channel, and it is not considered safe then for vessels drawing over 20 feet to enter. The leading mark for making the channel is, the low south end of Asserradores island well open of Cardon head, until Ponente point bears S. by W., when it is necessary to change the course to south-eastward in such a manner as to sail close round Cardon head. Having entered the port through Cardon channel, soundings of 6 and 7 fathoms will • Gorgon shoal or rock was discovered in 184:9 by Commander J. A. Paynter, K.N., of H.M.S. Gorgon. It had then 11 feet water upon it, and from it the south point of Aserradores island bore N. 80° E. ; Cardon head S. 87° E. ; and point Ponente S. 14° W. (Variation 9° E.) To avoid this rock, steer towards the entrance with Cardon head touching Icacos point, and when distant a good cable from point Ponente stand out N.E by N. until Castanon bluff opens out from Cardon head, then round Cardon head at a short dislanc3, lemembering that the current flows over Sawyer bank. GO CORINTO. be found for some distance within. There is complete protection from all winds, and Cardon island and the shoals at the entrance keep out all heavy seas. Pilots. — A pilot will pi'oceed to sea as soon as a vessel is signalled from the look- out on the north-west part of Cardon island. Pilotage is compulsory, unless there is unreasonable delay on the part of the pilot coming off. corinto, the present settlement, from which the port takes its name, is situated, we believe, about 500 yards northward from point Icacos, the south-eastern extremity of Asserradores island; it does not come into view until the point is doubled. The village of Realejo, about 4 miles higher up the river, was formerly frequented by vessels ; it is now, however, superseded by Corinto, in consequence of the river having become shallow and uunavigable. Corinto possesses a custom-house and several other build- ings ; a flagstaff will also be observed which is used as a mark for anchoring. It is in communication with Leon, a city having a population of about 3500, distant about 18 miles eastward from the port. The road leading to it, is on the opposite side of the estero, and faces the village. Since the establishment of Corinto, the town of Chinendega, 6 miles northward of Realejo, has deteriorated in commercial importance, while Leon has improved. The port is capable of accommodating a large number of vessels completely sheltered from bad weather. There is never any surf on the beach and landing is easy. Vessels anchor about 1^ cables distant from the flagstaff of Corinto, in about 5 fothoms water, ooze, good holding ground. This anchorage is extremely unhealthy during the rainy season, at which time the heat is oppressive, and intermittent fevers, of a very severe kind, are prevalent. Provisions are scarce and of inferior quality ; only such being provided as are necessary for the Pacific Mail S.S. Company, whose steamers call regularly every 14 days. If ship's stores be required they must be obtained from Leon ; the prices are high. Good fresh water may be obtained at a place called Lemon, 6 or 8 miles distant from Corinto; that found at point Icacos is not considered good. Wood may be cut on Asserradores island, but care must be taken to avoid the serpents which are almost as numerous there as the sharks in the estero. Exterior Anchorage. — The anchorage outside Cardon island is safe only during fine weather, consequently when it is intended to make a lengthened stay at the port it is more prudent to enter the river. A very large vessel should anchor with the north point of the island bearing East or E. | N., iu Q\ to 8 fathoms, bottom of mud and black sand; if iu a position more northward than this, the same soundings will be found at a greater distance from the land but not from the shoals, and if more south- ward a heavier sea is generally met with. This is the winter anchorage for all vessels. In fine weather, vessels may anchor close in at about a mile W. i N. to W. by N. from Cardon island, with A^iejo mountain bearing N.E. by N.; the depth here will be 4.^ to 5 fathoms, sand and mud. In 1852 the French surveying-vessel Brilliante anchored here in 4^ fathoms, with Yiejo mountain bearing N. 34° E.; Momotombo in one with Cardon island N. 87° E.; Telica N. 68° E. ; and the north-west point of Cardon S. 83° E. Tides.— li is high water at Cardon island on the days of full and change at 3h. Cm. Spring tides rise 11 feet. As the river is ascended the time of high ■w-ater is later; at MANZANA. 01 7 miles up the difference is 1 hour. At the outer anchorage the flood stream flows from N.E. to E.N.E. and the ebb the contrary, with a mean velocity of about y\-, of a knot per hour. The COAST.* — From Cai'don island the trend of the coast is about N.W. by W. along Asserradores island, which is low and well wooded, and has a sandy beach. A near approach to this shore is not recommended, because, if the wind should subside, the current and swell would soon drift the vessel on shore. A safe distance is 5 miles, in not less than 10 fathoms water. During winter, when the wind sometimes blows from South to S.W. with rainy weather, there is also danger in remaining at anchor off it, as the sea runs very high. Manzana, or False Garden island, about 12 miles N.W. by W. from Garden island, is a small low island covered with trees, and encircled by a beach (of gravel) of a whitish colour.f The island is only 10 feet high, but the trees upon it render it visible at the distance of 8 miles ; as these trees are almost of equal height their tops form nearly a level line. It terminates in a very gentle declivity, especially on its south side, where its extreme point is connected to Asserradores island by a rocky bank under waiter, upon which the sea almost always breaks, and over which there is such little depth that it completely closes the channel. It is dangerous to attempt this passage, even in a boat, unless in very fine weather and at nearly high water. Between Manzana and the main is another passage, even more dangerous than that just mentioned; for, although the sea in it breaks less, and consequently does not so readily show the rocks and sandy shoals, there is much less water upon them than is found in the southern passage. It has been already stated that vessels bound to Gorinto (Realejo), and unacquainted with the bearings necessary to make the entrance of that port, have occasionally mis- taken Manzana for Garden, and Asserradores for Gastanon, and the passage mentioned for the entrance to Realejo, hence navigators should be cautious to avoid being deceived in the appearance of the land, and should remember that, whereas Manzana is very low and completely covered with trees, Gardon island has only a few trees on its north and east parts and a lighthouse on its north-east head. M. T. De Lapelin of the French surveying vessel BriUiante, 1852, remarks: — "In the event of the mountains being seen it is almost impossible to mistake Manzana for Garden, for Viejo bears E.N.E. from the former island and N.E. by N. from the latter. Viejo is so lofty that its summit is often hidden by clouds ; in such an event, the volcano of Telica, a perfect cone south of and not very far from it, whose summit is rarely concealed from view, is very usefal as a mark, — from Manzana it bears East, and from Gardon E.N.E. :^" The false entrance of Manzana, in which so many ships have been wrecked througli the mistake occurring mentioned above, is fronted by a reef known as the Bubosos, * The coast between Eealejo and the gulf of Fouseca has not been surveyed, and is known to be very imperfectly delineated in charts, hence our description of it is necessarily unsatisfactory. t The island of Manzana is called by the pilots of the country Asserradores island ; and the latter is known to them as Gorinto island {Instructions Nautiques, No. 599, p. 40, 1879). + If the volcano of Telica is correctly placed on the Admiralty chart (2147) these bearings must be true. 62 MESA DE ROLLAND AND POINT COSEGUINA. ■which extends seaward from the island more than 3 miles. At its extremity are some detached rocks which never uncover. To clear this danger it is recommended not to approach the coast nearer than 5 miles, nor to go into a less depth than 11 or 12fathoms. Between the false entrance of Manzaua and the Boca del Padra Ilamos, the entrance of which is divided by an islet, the coast is skirted by a Hue of reefs which extend sea- ward a distance of 2 to 8 miles., and in which there are several passages for boats. At 4 miles from this part of the coast the soundings vary from 11 to 14 fathoms. Speck Reef. — About 7 miles N.W. by W. from Manzaua island and 20 miles S.E. by E. from Cosoguina point are some dangerous outlying rocks collectively known as the Speck reef. There are in fact two distiuct rocky shoals, the outer of whicli is distant about 3 miles from the shore and separated from the inner by a channel half a mile wide and G fathoms deep. The direction of this channel is S. by E. and N. by W. (true). The outer reef is knov.-n by the natives as the Sequcdad de Fetaccdtcpe ; it was explored by the French surveying vessel Yaudreidl, in 1872, which vessel anchored in the channel between the two shoals. The Sequedad de Petacaltepe is said to be ex- tremely dangerous, as at half-tide, with a heavy swell, there are no breakers upon it, whilst the sea breaks furiously at that time on the inner reef, which uncovers at low water. Some rocky heads of IG feet water have been found on the outer reef and the pilots state that at low water springs three small pinnacles of rock are visible, awash. At the anchorage of the Vaudreuil, in G fathoms water, in the passage between the two shoals above described, the following true bearings were taken : — the centre of Manzaua island S. 51° E. ; Viejo mountain N. 8G° E. ; the Mesa de Roland N. 33° E. ; and point Coseguina N. 49° W. These bearings place approximately the position of the vessel's anchorage in lat. 12° 40', long. 87° 22^'. Mesa de Roiiand, in about lat 12° 46', is the extremity of a little mountainous chain, which runs from the interior in the direction of the sea. It is easily recognised by the plateau of which its summit consists, and by the large reddish-coloured spots which occur in parts where there are no trees. Similar spots may also be observed upon another flat topped mountain, situated a little more in the interior.- North-westward from the Rolland the land becomes very depressed and flooded, so that it has the appearance of a large estero (or estuary) when viewed beyond a depth of 8 fathoms water. The shores of this apparent breach in the coast are lined with breakers, towards which the soundings decrease gradually from 10 fathoms water, which depth is distant 5 miles from the breakers. Proceeding in a north-westerly direction this drowned land is succeeded by a sandy beach, which, at 6 miles from Cose- guina point, gives place to steep cliffs, rising gradually in elevation as point Coseguina is reached. Point coseauina, the south-east point of the gulf of Fonseca, in its western and southern parts presents to the sea moderately high and almost perpendicular clifis; its northern part is, on the contrary, very low, as it consists of a sandy beach. Vessels may safely approach it from all directions, even to within the distance of a mile, if a depth of 8 to 5 fathoms be maintained; but during the flood, this offing would not be * If these peculiar appearances are occasioned by drought, thej' will most probably be green during the raiuy season. GULF OF FONSECA OR CONC'HAGUA. GB sufficient, as it might carry them into the Estero Real, towards which it flows with a strength of 1^ to 2 knots. -= GULF OF FONSECA, — This is one of the most important bays on the Pacific coast of Central America, being of great extent, and remarkable both for its security and surpassing beauty. It contains two principal harbours — namely. Im Union (or San Carlos), which belongs to San Salvador; and Awapala, a port belonging to Honduras. San Lorenzo (belonging to Honduras), on the river Nacaome, is not visited by foreign vessels. The bay, reckoning from shore to shore, has an extent of about 23 miles north and south, and of nearly 30 miles east and west; over nearly the whole of its area, wherever the depth of water is suitable, there is excellent anchorage. Although known chiefly by the name of Fonseca, it is also called Amapala, Conchagua, Cose- guina, Omatapa, and San Carlos; by English shipmasters it is recognised as the gulf of Fonseca. In the north-western part of the gulf are several islands of considerable size, of which that most to seaward is Manguera. These will be described subsequently. The mainland is divided between the states of Nicaragua, Honduras, and San Sal- vador. The islands belong only to the two last mentioned states, and these are arranged as follows ; Honduras possesses Amapala or Tigre, Sacate Grande or Velas- quez, and Disposicion, — San Salvador owns Conchaguita, Manguera, Perez, and Punta Sacate. The islands are all of volcanic origin and extremely beautiful in appearance. Estero Real. — At nearly 12 miles north-eastward from Coseguina point (described on page 62) is point Monypenny, which is low and swampy, and has immediately under it a lagoon. Thence the coast takes a sudden turn in a south-easterly direction, about 14 miles, to the mouth of the Estero Real, and is low all the way, but rises inland to high mountain land. This arm of the sea is fronted by a bar, having over it a depth of 16 feet at low tide; all vessels that can cross this may sail about 30 miles into the interior, and those of only 10 feet draft fully 60 miles. The depth within the bar is 5 fathoms, rapidly deepening to 6 and 7 fathoms, which is maintained for many miles. Sir E. Belcher R.N. ascended it about 30 miles in the surveying vessel Sulphur, and could easily have gone further, had not the strong head winds rendered the toil of towing too heavy. In reference to it he says "lam satisfied that the stream could have been followed many miles higher, and have not the slightest doubt that it is fed very near lake Managua. I saw the mountains beyond the lake on its eastern side, and no land higher than the intervening trees occurred. This, therefore, would be the most advantageous line for a canal, which, by entire lake-navigation, might be con- nected with the interior of the states of San Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, and extended to the Atlantic. Thirty navigable miles, for vessels drawing 10 feet, we can vouch for ; and the natives and residents assert 60 more ; but steamers will be abso- lutely necessary, to tow against the prevailing breezes." Fiaya Grande, in the Estero Real, belonging to Nicaragua, is on the left bank of the stream, and so rarely visited as to be a place of but little commercial importance. It is merely a port occupied by a few soldiers. * Belcher's chart represents a reef extending a third of a mile off the point ; also at 3^ miles farther northward a reef is shown running off the coast a similar distance. 64 GULF OF FONSECA OR CONCHAGUA. About 8 miles within Coseguina point is the volcano of that name, notorious for its frequent emissions of dust, ashes, and water. Its summit is 2848 feet above the level of the sea, and can be seen at the distance of nearly 70 miles in clear weather. The verge of the crater is half a mile in diameter. The interior walls fall perpendicularly to a depth of about 200 feet, when the bottom of the crater becomes flattish, with a small transparent lake in the centre. The last grand eruption of this volcano occurred on the 20th of January, 18B5, and was attended with the most disastrous effects.- From the Estero Real the coast trends round N.N.AV., about 30 miles, to the head of the gulf, and has soundings of 1^ to 3^ fathoms, at 4 miles from the shore ; some dry patches lie in the direction of E. by N., 6 miles from IMonypenny point. Amapaia Point. — The western side of the gulf, point Amapala, is of moderate height, and bordered by a reef of rocks and sands extending some distance into the sea, and causing heavy breakers ; thus enabling it to be easily avoided. Outside the point, at a short distance, is a depth of 6 to 8 fathoms. From point Amapala the shore bends in north-westward to the outlet of a small river, and then turns north-eastward, 9 miles, to Chicarene point, round the north side of which is port La Union. The volcano Amapala, the summit of which is 1^ miles inland in a W.S.W. direction from Chicarene point, rises to the height of 4340 feet. It has not the conical form so characteristic of the volcanoes in this part of Central America. It is a large mountain, with two summits contiguous to it ; of which, the highest has a gradual slope and is in parts crowned with trees, — whilst the other, of a very rounded form, is covered with the herb named Sacate.\ The second summit is the true crater of the volcano, and has been extinguished for many years ; it differs little in elevation from the first. la XTnion. — Immediately northward of point Chicarene is the bay forming port La Union. It extends 8 miles in a north-west direction and is about 3J miles broad, reckoning from shore to shore, but the whole of this is not available for anchorage, as extensive oyster beds and mud flats, dry at low water, line the northern shore, and contract the space in which shipping can be accommodated to not quite half that extent. The western and northern shores of the bay are low. The town, or village, stands on the southern shore, at about 4^ miles from the entrance. From the foregoing paragraph it will be seen that the deepest water in the port is off the south shore. The depth from point Chicarene to the town is (or was) 8 to B^- fathoms, and vessels may anchor in almost any part of it if precaution be taken not to get so close to the mud flat as to ground when the tide falls. It is common for very * The summit of the volcano fell in ; until then the mountain was almost as lofty as "Viejo. It now presents so remarkable an appearance, that coupled with its near vicinity to the sea it cannot be mistaken for other mountains on the coast. Belcher gives the height of Coseguina volcano as 3800 feet, and of Amapala volcano as 38G6 feet. + The herb Sacate covers the whole country except where there are trees. It has a long and strong fibre, and in the dry season gives the lands covered by it a peculiar yellow appearance, so that, were it not for their great extent they might be mistaken for fields of ripe corn. As the termination of the dry season approaches the whole country covered by it is parched and arid to a degree, and then appears of a reddish colour ; immediately after the commencement of the rains, this changes to a pale green colour and presents the appearance of young sugar c«ines. GULF OF F0NSP:CA— LA UNION. 65 li\rffe vessels to anchor jast within the entrance in 6 to 5 fathoms, mud, before the north point of Punta Sacate comes on the bearing of East, as they are then sufficiently" sheltered from the heavy seas sent in by strong winds from southward and not exposed to the intense heat prevalent further within the bay. Vessels of 300 or 400 tons- generally anchor at 2 miles south-eastward from the town, in about fathoms, mud, nearly midway between the town and point Chicarene. If it be intended to remain only a short time in this part of the gulf of Fonseca, aud- it be not convenient to enter the bay of La Union, vessels may anchor in the channel formed by the islands Conchaguita and Punta Sacate and the coast. The best place will be at about three-quarters of a mile southward of the watering place* of Chicarene, in 6 or 7 fathoms, mud, with point Chicarene bearing about N. i E., and the north point of Conchaguita S.E. by E. ^ E. Such a berth should be selected as may place the vessel as much as possible out of the influence of the violent sea which prevails here when the ebb is opposed by a strong sea breeze ; and, it is recommended to moor north and south because of the current. The bay of La Union affords a land-locked anchorage. It is not considered desirable to take up a berth directly opposite the town, because in summer the wind occasionally blows so hard from northward, that if the anchor drag the vessel might be on shore before another could be let go. In some parts of it the holding ground is not good. The town of La Union has a population of about 1200 ; it derives its importance mainly from its proximity to the city of San Miguel, which in February and November (when its fairs are held) becomes a busy commercial town. Since the creation of the port of Amapala and the re-opening of that of Libertad, La Union has lost much of its former importance. The gradual shoaling of the harbour, in consequence of the growth of the soft mud-flats, has also contributed towards its deterioration. A small wharf, or jetty, runs off the town for the convenience of boats, which are able to come along side it at half-tide. At low water landing is almost impossible, as the mud-flat uncovers far beyond the extremity of the jetty, and the only means of going on shore is by employing canoes Avhich slide on the mud. A few provisions may be had ; there are fowls and fruits, but supplies for a voyage cannot be obtained here. Light. — K fixed white light is exhibited from the Commandant's house at the inner part of the jetty ; it is 33 feet above the sea and visible 8 miles. Its approximate geographical position (according to the observations of M. Miet, commandant du L'Hennitte, 1874) is lat. 13° 16' 30", long. 87° 47' 10". Tides. — It is high water at La Union on the days of full and change at 3h. 15m. Springs rise lOf feet ; neaps 8f feet ; neaps range 7 feet. The tides are regular, except in the rainy season, when the ebb continues rather longer than the flood ; — at the entrance of the bay between Chicarene and the island Punta Sacate, they flow (especially the ebb) sometines at the rate of 3 knots and cause a strong race which has * This watering place is at ratlier more than a mile south-westward from point Cliicarpns, Although the surf here is occasionally very heavy, especially during a breeze from seaward and at full and change of the moon, water can be obtained with facility eitiier by the hose or by filling the barrels ou shore. The water is very superior in quality to that obtained from the wells of La Uuion. F G6 GULF OF FONSECA— LA UNION. the appearance of breakers, — in the vicinity of the town the rate is Beldom more than 2 knots. Directions. — When bound to tho bay of La Union, steer for the island Conchaguita, (subsequently mentioned,) and pass it at a short distance on its west side, as you will thus avoid getting into tho bay on the north side of Amapala point, towards which the flood tends. If obliged to tack there is plenty of room, but Amapala point should not bo approached nearer than the depth of 10 or 9 fathoms, because of the reef which surrounds it, the edge of which is steep ; as the sea usually breaks on this i-eef it is not diflScult to avoid. It will be prudent to preserve an oflSng from the land at least 1^ miles when in the vicinity of this point. When passing through the channel between Conchaguita island and the coast it is recommended to keep over towards the shore of Amapala volcano, to obtain the advantage of the flood which here flows northward ; and, this course should be followed even as far as Chicarene point, because immediately Conchaguita is left astern the flood divides into two streams, one flowing northward into the bay of La Union, and the other north- eastward between Punta Sacate and Perez islands. Some care is required to avoid a dangerous reef extending southward a third of a mile from the south-west end of Punta Sacate ; but which, as it is never entirely covered, presents no great difficulty. The channel here is but little more than half a mile wide, and has a depth in the middle of 14 to 20 and 28 fathoms ; having passed through this, tho bay of La Union opens to view, and such an anchorage can be selected as may be convenient. Faraiionos — On the eastern side of the fixirway to the bay of La Union, and just •within the entrance to the gulf, is a dangerous group of rocky islets, named the Fai'allones, among which are some rocks under water. They lie with Monypenny point Bearing East 5^ miles, and the centre of Coseguina volcano S.E. by E., 9 miles ; close to them all round is a depth of 8 to 10 fathoms. Manguera. — Of the islands in the gulf of Fonseca this is most to seaward, it is consequently the first met with in the approach to La Union from southward. It is oval in form, and its extent from N.N.W. to S.S.E. is about 8^ miles, its breadth being 1 J miles. Its shores are cliffy, and its summit has an elevation of about 600 feet. Close to it on the south, west, and north sides, is a depth of 6 to 8 fathoms ; but its eastern side has a sandy flat of 12 to 15 feet extending from it half a mile, beyond which are soundings of 4 and 4^ fathoms. A small rocky island, named Manguerita, lies about half a mile fi'om its south-east point ; in the channel between is a depth of 10 to 13 fathoms. Concbagnita is the name of the island situated 2 miles north-westward from Manguera. Its extent is If miles and its form is almost circular. This island rises to the height of about 500 feet, and may be safely approached on all sides except the north-east, whence a flat 10 feet underwater, extends halfway over to Perez island, and is succeeded by other shallows of similar depth. The channel to La Union bay is westward of this island, and has a depth of and 7 fathoms ; while the channel east- ward of it, between it and Manguera (that which is usually followed by vessels boand to Amapala in Tigre island), has a depth of 11 to 9 fathoms. perer. — At 2^ miles from Conchaguita in a north-easterly direction is Perez island, situated on the western edge of a 2 ^-fathom flat which extends from Conchaguita in a GULF OF FONSECA— AMAPALA. 67 north-easterly direction to Disposicion island, and thence to the shore. Close to the western side of this island is a depth of about 4 fathoms, which increases to 9 and 10 fathoms towards the shore of Punta Sacate. As Perez island is joined to Conchaguita by a flat of only 10 to 15 feet water, vessels approaching La Union bay (the eastern side of the approach to which is bounded by the islands and flat) must take care that they do not get too far eastward, especially at low tide. The flood hereabout sets north-eastward, and therefore has a tendency to carry vessels towards the flat. XMinta sacats i^ ^^^ name of the island north-westward of Perez. It bounds the channel into La Union bay on the east side, and is of irregular shape. A reef, already mentioned, extends a short distance south-westward from its south-west point. Between the island and the shore northward of it, is no safe passage, almost the whole space being occupied by a mud flat which dries at low water. At a short distance from its east side is an islet na^med Chiquito. Oarova, Inglesora, Disposicion, Valasquoz and li^rre are islands eastward of those just mentioned. Of these, Valasquez is the most extensive ; it is close to the shore, and its summit has an elevation of 2220 feet. These islands ai*e all, more or less, situated on the extensive shallows which prevail in the northern part of the gulf, and among them are many islets and rocks of which special mention need not be made. On the north-west side of these islands is Cismuyo bay at the head of which is port La Brea, of little importance. Disposicion is the name of the island ofl" the south-west side of Valasquez, and about If miles north-westward from Tigre ; it is recognisable from a distance by its rounded summits, of which the highest has a height of about 650 feet. Tigre, the island most to seaward, has an extent of about 3 miles, and is almost circular in form. It is the highest of the islands of the archipelago just mentioned, as its sum- mit has an elevation of 2590 feet. A bank of 2i fathoms extends 2 miles from its south-west side, in the direction of Manguera, leaving between it and that island a channel 2^ miles wide, and about 4 fathoms deep ; the east side of the island, in the direction of San Lorenzo bay, is so shallow that it is only for a short distance that vessels can get near it ; its north side is unapproachable; consequently, it is only along its west side that an approach can be made to the port of Amapala, which lies on its north-western shore. Amapala, since being made a free port, has rapidly grown in importance and is now more frequented by vessels than La Union. It belongs to Honduras and is the only port of that state on the Pacific coast. Its anchorage is extremely good, being sheltered from almost all winds and having good holding ground, green mud. The usual anchorage is in 7 or 8 fathoms about 4 cables distant from the shore, abreast the village, with the flagstaff bearing S. 41^° E. {true). Provisions are more easily obtained at this place than at La Union ; a kind of market is held. Water of questionable quality can be obtained from a cistern near the shore. Among its vegetable products the chief are coffee and Indigo. The exports consist principally of cattle, hides, dye woods and other fancy woods. In general the climate is healthy, and, although intermittent fevers sometimes prevail, there is no hospital to go to. Loading and discharging cargo arc carried on by means of lighters f2 C8 GULF OF FONSECA— AMAPALA. and in general there is very little delay. Landing is easy, as the beach is sand abreast ' the village ; it will, however, be greatly facilitated when the proposed mole is con- structed. Directions. — If, when bound to Amapala, it be intended to use the channel between Conchufjuita and Maujuera, steer as much as possible midway between these islands, as thereby the deepest water will be preserved; the depth will be 9 to 11 fathoms. As the north end of Manguera is rounded, the second hill of the summit of Tigre should be brought on a N.E. by E. bearing and continued thus until the shore of that island is distant about half a mile, when the channel to the port will become open; in this latter course the soundings will gradually decrease from 10 to 3^ fathoms, on mud mixed with sand, — the lead should be kept going, especially when nearing Tigi-e. • The channel to Amapala is along the west shore of Tigre, between it and the ex- tensive bank of 6 to 15 feet upon which are seated the islands Conchaguita, Perez, Inglesera, Disposicion &c., and which extends northward to the land. It is not quite three-quarters of a mile wide, and in it are soundings of 4| to 8 and 10 fathoms ; as the channel is so limited in breadth, the lead should be freely used, and especially because the edge of the bank is steep. When running through the channel, a little islet will be observed close off the west shore of Tigre, to which it is connected by a sand bank dry at low water; it is named Caracolita, and upon it are shrubs and a few trees. A dangerous rock lies close to the westward of this islet, which must be cau- tiously avoided ; it is (or was) guarded by a buoy. From Caracolita islet to Amapala the distance is about 1^ miles, and the course is along the coast of Tigre, keeping oflf it a moderate distance; there is no other danger but what is close in to the shore.* The channel eastward of Manguera, between it and the bank extending south-west- ward from Tigre, is also occasionally used, especially by vessels under 16 feet draught. From the little islet Manguerita, off the south-east end of Manguera, steer in a N.N.W. direction and keep the lead going to avoid getting on the bank extending from Tigre island, and as soon as Disposicion island bears N. ^ W., steer for it on that bearing until Caracolita comes into view. When the latter bears N. f E., the channel is open and may be entered and followed as before. Tides. — It is high water at Amapala on the days of full and change of the moon at 2h. 56m. The rise of the highest tide observed was 11 feet. At the north end of Manguera the flood flows in an E.N.E. direction with a strength of about a mile per hour ; the ebb, on the contrary, flows between Conchaguita and Manguera, S.S.W., at the rate of l-j^o miles. It is high water here on the days of full and change of the moon at 3h. 15m.; the rise of tide is about 10 feet. The best time to leave Amapala is at the end of the flood and with a breeze from the land ; no further instructions are necessary than to reverse those already given for entering. jwiountains. — The mountains around the gulf of Fonseca are very conspicuous from the sea. Some have been mentioned in the course of the preceding remarks on the gulf, and it now only remains for us to allude to those named Viejo and San Miguel. • When approaching the port the direction and influence of the tidal stream must not he forgotteni The flood sets northward and towards the hanks. PORT JIQUILISCO. 69 Towering above all other mountains eastward of the gulf, will be seen in clear weather the volcano Viejo which has an elevation of 5557 feet. This mountain cannot be mistaken for others, its height is so great that it bounds the view in the eastern horizon ; hence in clear weather it is a valuable landmark. When inside the gulf, in the vicinity of Manguera island, it will be observed over the bay of the Estero Real on a bearing of about S.E. by E. ^ E. San Miguel, in about lat. 13° 24|', long. 88° 5', is north-westward of the gulf of Fonseca. It rises to the estimated height of 652G feet, and is a perfect cone having a very large base. Its summit (the crater) is almost a level, there being only a very slight concavity in the middle. The great elevation of this mountain causes it to be conspicuous^^bove all the hills in its vicinity ; when viewed from westward it appears detached fron^the surrounding land. It was in full activity in 1852, when its summit was frequently hidden by a white cloud. The COAST. — Point Amapala or Candadillo, the western limit of Fonseca bay, is encircled by a bed of rocks and sand which extends seaward about one mile. This danger is easy to avoid as the sea breaks continually over it. From Amapala point the coast trends in a westerly direction about 26 miles to port Jiquilisco, and is for a few miles fronted by a sandy beach, which is succeeded for a further distance of about 10 miles by a bolder coast, cliffy in some places ; this ceases on the bearing of San Miguel mountain N. IS'' E., and is followed by a low shore as far as port Jiquilisco. These sandy beaches give a very deceptive appearance to the land, especially at sun- rise and sunset, at which times it does not seem to be at the distance from the vessel that it really is, and the surf also apparently breaks farther from the coast than it actually does ; hence it must be approached with extra care, and especially too as it has not been surveyed, and is almost unknown. The soundings from a distance of some few miles in the offing are believed to decrease gi-adually to the shore, and it is stated that vessels may anchor off the coast if overtaken by a calm, which it is perhaps most prudent to do, — the currents being variable, sometimes to eastward and some- times to westward, with a strength of about 1^ miles an hour.* At a mile distant from the shore the soundings are 8 to 10 fathoms until San Miguel comes on a N. 4° E. bearing, when they diminish to 7 and 5| fathoms at li miles off the coast. PORT JiQTrix.isco, named also Espiritu-Santo and Triunfo de los Libres, consists of a bay situated in about lat. 13° 10', long. 88° 18'. It has not been examined, and the few particulars we possess of it are not of a reliable character. It is scarcely known in San Salvador, and it has no trade whatever. Its entrance is intricate and much obstructed by sand-banks, upon which the sea breaks heavily. These shoals extend about 4 miles seaward and are dangerous to passing vessels.f Within the • Voyage of the Serieuse, in the Annales Hydrographiqu^s, Vol. 10. t A dangerous shoal, with about 12 feet water over it, has been reported as existing off this part of the coast, in lat. 13° 2', long. 88° 19' (approximate). According to the statement, it is 3 miles long in a N.E. and S.W. direction, and from its centre San Miguel volcano bears N.N.E. Two vessels are asserted to have struck on it, at an estimated distance from the shore of about 10 miles. It is known as the Lempa shoal. The existence of this reported shoal is discredited. The examinations of this locality made by 70 PORT JIQUILISCO. entrance are Bome islands, one of which, named, Pajaros, divides the bay into two parts. The average depth in the channel is stated to be about 8 fathoms; hence, if this be correct, there is water sufficient for large vessels. When intending to enter, it will be prudent to send a boat ahead to sound the passage, should it so happen that a pilot cannot be obtained. M. Jamin of the French ship Genie wrote thus a few years ago: — " On the evening of the 25th January we got under way from the river Lempa, with a good S.S.E. breeze, which enabled us to run along the coast in about 8 fathoms, and at sunset we observed Bome breakers opposite us which appeared to extend a considerable distance from the land; wo then anchored in about 8^ fathoms, soft mud. The next day we got under way again, and it was then easy to see the breakers, which extend across the Estero in the form of a horse-shoo, in such a manner that the bay can only be entered by going round them ; tho sea broke over them with considerable violence, but there are places among them whei'e in fine weather there are no breakers, which might con- sequently be easily traversed by boats. The depth in tho deepest part of the channel at low water is 15 feet; tho rise is about 9f feet. It is therefore possible for vessels of considerable tonnage, to get within the breakers, where there is a much greater depth of water, with the exception that in two or three places there are some small banks ; these may, however, be easily avoided. The ebb current leaving the Estero forms eddy streams in which there is a good depth of water, and these eddies are also to be seen in the deepest places on the reef ; hence tho position of the navigable channel is well indicated. The current flows in an opposite direction with the flood, — at the rate of 2 or 3 knots at full and change, when the bar is veiy dangerous, except at the time of high water." M. Lapelin of the French ship BrilUante, 1852, says "The coast between the river Lempa and port Jiquilisco is low and wooded, but the beach, which in the neighbour- hood of the river is of very white sand, becomes here of a well determined gi-ay colour. The soundings oflf it at the distance of a mile are regular, the depth at that offing being 7 fathoms, on a bottom consisting of sand covered with a very tenacious slimy mud, good for holding; apparantly there are no sunken dangers. Near Jiquilisco, the coast (similar in appearance to that immediately westward of it, being backed by some wooded hills, and fronted by a beach so low as frequently to bo hidden by the heavy surf that breaks on the bar) is intersected by several rivers. Tho bay of Jiquilisco, unlike what may be remarked of the rivers Lempa, Paza &c., has not about it large mangi'ove trees BO conspicuous with their white trunks, but clumps of thickets of a dirty pale green colour, or great bushes comparatively leafless. We approached tho breakers as near as half a mile, coasting them from West to M. Lapelin of the French ship BrilUante in 1852, also by M. Lefevre of the French ship Va7tdreuil, in 1872, establish tho fact that no danger exists beyond the distance of 4 miles from the coast. It is consequently considered probable that tho reported shoal is one and the same as that which is known to extend about 4 miles off the entrance of Jiquilisco bay, — an opinion which is not only held by the last named surveyor but also by the Spanish pilot at San Jos6 de Guatemala. Face pa^' 11 RIVER LEMPA AND LIBERTAD. 71 East, and had never less than 6 fathoms. When wo were so far from them as a mile to 1^ miles, although the colour of the water was a very marked yellowish green, we had soundings of 7^ to 8:^ fathoms. During our running survey we found the bottom very even, and the neighbourhood of the bar was always indicated by a gradual decrease of the soundings. The bottom consisted of a very fine gray sand, which offered but little resistance; hence if there is an intention to remain here for a short time, anchorage should be sought at about 1^ miles westward of the bar, where is slimy mud mixed with black sand excellent for holding." sivsK i^asFA. — The entrance to this river is similar in character to the others westward of it, large trees, with white trunks and bare tops rising above the lower wood, being observable on its shores. It is situated a few miles westward from port Jiquilisco and runs within a league of one of the arms of Jiquilisco estero. The Lempa is the largest river in the state of San Salvador. Notwithstanding its great length and breadth and the immense quantity of water it contains, it is not navigable for more than 8 leagues from its entrance, — that is, with river steamers. Farther up, owing to the numerous sandbanks and rapids, navigation is almost im- possible. Its bar which extends out a mile or \^ miles from the land is said to be impassable at the present time (1872) : it should be carefully guarded against by vessels coasting in the locality. From the entrance the volcano San Salvador beai'S N. 50° W., that of San Vicente N. 16° W. and that of San Miguel N. G0° E. The mean velocity of the current of the river is 4 to 5 miles per hour. On the left bank are (or were) Bome fishermen's huts. From the river Lempa to Libertad, a distance of about 50 miles, the coast is believed to be free fr'om outlying sunken dangers, and it is said that there are regular soundings off it, which decrease gradually from the depth of 50 fathoms. At a mile from the land the average depth is 7 fathoms, on fine sand and mud. The land, bordered with a belt of white sand, consists of an extensive plain, from which rises in the distance the volcanoes San Vicente and San Miguel ; these are of great altitude and visible fi-om a distance of many miles. Concordia, a port of recent creation, is at the entrance of the river Jiboa, at about 11 miles westward from the mouth of Lempa river. This anchorage serves as the port pf the town of San Vicente, We have no further information respecting it. UB£KTA2>. — This port is almost an open roadstead, with scarcely any shelter. It is one of the ports of entry of San Salvador and is connected with the capital of the republic by a good cart road about 26 miles long. The village of Libertad consists merely of a few houses (or huts) attached to which is the custom-house establishment. It possesses a mole which is about 220 yards in length and has at its extremity a white building which is the first house observable when coming fi'om seaward. Light. — \ fixed tchite light is exhibited from the western angle of the balcony of the custom-house, visible 6 or 7 miles. Its approximate geographical position is lat. 13° 30' 40", long. 89° 15' 30". The light is obscured by a building between the bearings of N. by W. and N.N.W. i W. Teleyraph. — Libertad is in telegraphic communication with the capital, San Salvador, also with Acajutla and Sonsonate ; the telegraph terminates at the frontier of Guatemala. 72 LIBERTAD. Supplies. — Very few supplies are obtainable at Libertad; meat of inferior quality, ft few fowls, also live oxen are the most likely things to be had, but there is no fruit. Water is obtainable with some difficulty, from the little river Quelama, situated at rather Jess than half a mile westward from the houses. The port can be considered a safe roadstead only during fine weather, or when the wind is from northward; it should not be visited from July to October. Directions. — When bound to port Libertad, vessels from southward should sight the volcano San Salvador, and steer with it bearing N. | E., as it will then lead them to the roadstead. If from eastward or ivestward, a better course cannot be adopted than to follow the coast at an oflBing of 5 or 6 miles, supposing the weather to be favourable for so doing, there being no objects immediately over the town sufficiently conspicuous to be visible from a distance. If approaching the port directly from southward, soundings of 27 and 25 fathoms, mud, will be obtained at about 8 miles from the land, which thence decrease gradually to the beach. A nearer approach will bring into view a large white warehouse covered with tiles, having on its east side a flag-stafi", and on its west side a large white house ; the house is perhaps more conspicuous than the warehouse. And, when still nearer the land, the cottages thatched with palmetto leaves will rise into view. The depth at a mile from the land is about 8 fathoms, muddy sand. Although this depth is perhaps considerable for some merchant vessels to anchor in, it is a better anchorage than nearer the shore, the bottom closer to the beach being not so good in quality, it is however a little too far out for loading and unloading cargo. Near the beach the bottom consists at first of fine sand, and afterwards of pebbles or gravel. The rollers which set in on the beach curl and break at times in 4 or 5 fathoms, at least a quarter of a mile ofi". Those within, which are the most dangerous, are caused by the ofiset, or efflux. The anchorage is said to be uneasy, and unsafe, and should be avoided near the full moon. Sudden rollers come in, which are apt to snap chain-cables, unless with a long range. The COAST. — From Libertad to Acajutla the distance is about 30 miles, along a coast believed to be free from any outlying sunken dangers and supposed to have a bank of soundings fi'om it to the distance of 10 or 15 miles. At 1 to 2 miles from the beach the depth has been ascertained to be 13 to 16 fiithoms, muddy sand. Westward of Libertad for a distance of 5 or G miles the shore consists of grey sand with mangroves, and is of moderate height. This sandy shore is then succeeded by land of greater elevation, which is known as the Cute du Baume or the Conta del Bahamo. It consists of a succession of rocky undulating points and perpendicular cliffs separated here and there by little bays having beaches of sand and shingle. This district produces an article known commercially as the Balsam of Peru, from its having been sent to Lima for export to Europe ; it is collected solely by the aboriginal Indians who inhabit the locality. The western extreme of this part of the coast is terminated by a conspicuous rocky cape, with a well wooded summit, and having in its immediate vicinity several remarkable hillocks, covered with trees. Thence as far as point Remedies, Acajutla, the coast consists of an uninterrupted grey sandy shore, surmounted by mangroves,' POINT REMEDIOS AND ACAJUTLA. 73 behind which are seen hillocks partially covered with trees. lu the vicinity of Acajutla the country is less high, more level and well clad with trees. The volcanoes Virola, San Vicente or Sacatecoluco, and San Salvador, situated some miles inland, are a great assistance to vessels bound to ports Libertad and Acajutla, as they are visible from a distance of many miles at sea. Virola, situated in lat. 13° 26' between the volcanoes San Miguel and San Vicente, consists of high lands among which can be distinguished a mountain with many peaks as well as a cone having the appearance of an old volcano ; this cannot be seen from a great distance. San Vicente, in lat. 13° 85', long. 88° 59' 0" (M. Lapelin), has an elevation of about 6900 feet. It rises in the form of a truncated cone, the summit of which, viewed from eastward or westward appears cleft, one summit being more rounded than the other. San Salvador, in lat 13" 43' 30", long. 89° 21' 21" (M. Lapelin), has an elevation of about 6430 feet, and can be seen when at the distance of fully 60 miles from the land. Viewed from the sea it appears behind the mountain chain in the form of a very large jnountain, with a flat summit, in shape not unlike the back of a tortoise. At its ex- tremity is a peak rather more lofty than itself. Foint Remedios is a low cliffy headland, thickly clad with mangroves and easily recognised. Rocks above and under water, over which the sea breaks violently, extend two or three miles off the point in a south-westerly direction. To avoid this danger vessels should not approach the coast hereabout nearer than 4 miles, nor within the depth of 13 fathoms. The bay eastward of the point is shallow, the depth at 1^ miles from the shore being only 5 or 6 fathoms; as the point is rounded, coming from east- ward, the soundings gradually increase. ACAJUTI.A. — From point Remedios the coast has a direction of N.N.W. for about 3^ miles to Acajutla, the port of Sonsonate, and consists of cliffs intersected with little beaches of white sand. At the end of these cliffs is the landing place, the town itself being situated on the summit of the cliff ; the town is but a small place defended by a battery, and conspicuous among the huts will be seen a tiled building occupied as a custom-house, near which is a flag-staff. The roadstead is merely an open bay, exposed to all winds from westward ; these occasionally send in a very heavy sea, hence it is not considered a desirable anchorage, especially in winter. Acajutla is one of the principal ports of San Salvador having a population of about 600 souls ; its geographical position is stated to be lat. 13° 85', long. 89° 48' 80" (Captain W. H. Parker, P.M.S.S. Co.). At about 4 leagues from this port, in the interior, is the town of Sonsonate, situated at the foot of the volcano Isalco ; this town has a population of 5000 to 6000. A well-built mole extends out about 50 yards from the custom-house, which is situated on the summit of the cliff. Upon the greater part of this mole is constructed a shed, with a white roof ; the latter affords a ready means of recognising the place at a con- siderable distance. The heavy seas which break upon the beach have formed a dangerous bar, which is distant more than 100 yards outside the extremity of the mole, rendering landing exceedingly difficult at times. 74 ACAJUTLA. Li'jht. — K fixed light, visible 7 or 8 miles, is exhibited from the extremity of the mole. It shows red to southward, tireen to northward and a irhite sector between. The direc- tion of the best anchorage is in the sector of white light. To clear the dangers off Remedios point do not bring the light to bear to the northward of N.N. E. \ E. Buoys are moored 50 yards from the mole-head, one on each side, to facilitate communication. Directions. — When bound to port Acajutla it is recommended to get sight of the volcano Isalco, and bring it to bear N.E. by N,, as that bearing leads directly to the anchorage. The mountain is situated about 12 miles from the coast, is 4972 feet high, and behind it are others of much greater altitude ; it is easily recognised, although there are peaks in its neighbourhood very similar in appearance, because it is an active volcano. The column of smoke and steam constantly ascending from it and the frequent eruptions of molten lava, render it conspicuous both day and night, — it is also not of sufficient height to be so frequently hidden by clouds as are the more lofty mountains in the interior. From these circumstances it is a very useful landmark to vessels seeking the ports of San Jose, Acajutla and Libertad. The usual anchorage in fine weather is abreast the extremity of the mole in 7 to 10 fathoms, sand and mud, about half a mile from the shore, with mount Isalco bearing from N. 33° E. to N. BG° E. During the rainy season, wheu the swell of the sea is very great and the winds from S.S.E. to S.W., occasionally very violent, it will be necessary to anchor farther out, in not less than 12 fathoms. A good mark when running, for the anchorage is the flag-staff in one with the large door of the custom-house store. If it be necessary, vessels may tack without hesitation as there are no sunken dangers, with the exception of those already mentioned around point Remedies, and the soundings are an excellent guide. The anchorage cannot be considered convenient on account of the difficulty of loading and unloading cargo ; it is however safe in fine weather. Unless circumstances compel a visit it is as well to avoid it during the months from July to October, because at that time very heavy seas are sent in by strong winds from seaward. Nor, can the holding ground be considered good, for the Heroine when anchored in 16 fathoms mud, dragged both her anchors although the chains were 142 fathoms long. It is high water on the days of full and change of the moon at 2h. 35m. The rise of tide is about 9 feet. The set of the current is variable ; during the fine season, however, it is generally E.S.E., at the rate of -^^ of a mile per hour. Supplies of fresh provisions, as well as cattle, wood, sugar, &c. &c., can be obtained at Sonsonate, at reasonable prices ; it is necessary, however, to give two days' notice if a large quantity of provisions is required. Coffee, sugar and indigo are cultivated in the locality. Water may be procured at the mole-head, whither it is carried by means of iron pipes. Acajutla was visited in 1859 by H.M.S. Havana, Captain T. Harvey. "Starting from San Jose de Guatemala on May 24th, we worked down to Acajutla. Between these places a ship may stand in safely by the lead, as it shoals gradually and regularly to 10 and 12 fathoms at 3 miles from the shore. In the afternoon of the 26th we anchored at Acajutla, with point Remedios and the shoal from it sheltering us from south- ACAJUTLA, 75 eastward. Here v^e found a substantially built wharf, at which there is generally a fair landing, although at times the surf is such as to prevent any approach. Merchant ships discharge and receive cargo by their own boats. On the 27th the breakers on the shore were so trifling that our cutters landed on a wooding expedition in parts of the bay without the slightest difliculty ; but on the 29th the surf was so heavy that it was extremely hazardous even at the wharf, and four hours were occupied in watching oppor- tunities to embark supplies. Beef, stock, vegetables and fruits may be obtained in any quantity from Sonsonate ; but two days' notice must be given to secure any consider- able amount. The pier, happily, is provided with cranes, which we had to use in getting off bullocks. We anchored in 12 fathoms with the landing place bearing N. 55° E. A vessel should not stand nearer to Remedies reef than the depth of 20 fathoms, unless with a good breeze and clear weather. The volcano Isalco was burning during the whole of our stay, — no lighthouse gives a better light. This volcano bearing N.E. by N., is a good mark for the port." Captain W. H. Parker, P.M.S.S. Co. (1871) gives the following instructions for Acajutla : — " In making this port from the westward you can run the coast from San Jose 2 or 3 miles off-shore. The low land and beach extend to Acajutla, which is on a moderately high bluff. As you draw near you will make the custom-house and wharf on your port bow, and point Remedies and reef on your starboard bow. The reef shows well out of the water and breakers extend some distance beyond the rocks. Acajutla is on abluflf, as already observed, and from the town to point Remedies there are strips of sand-beach showing much whiter than the beach to the westward of the bluff. At the back of the town and point the land breaks in moderately high hills, which will be seen when the mountains and volcanoes are obscured. In the dry season there are so many fires on the mountains that Isalco cannot always be distinguished. The land, though, to the eastward is high down to the sea — to the westward low, with many huts on the beach — detached and in groups. Making the port from the southward you will see the custom-house 12 miles off, with a good glass. Keep 4 miles off point Remedies and anchor as hereafter directed. In making Acajutla from the eastward, you will open the white house on the wharf as you round point Remedies. Having cleared the reef, steer about North along the land, until you open the old custom-house clear of the bluff, and having the wharf bearing about E.N.E. run directly for it, and anchor in about 10 fathoms water. I anchored here in 9i fathoms, sticky bottom, and lying with 30 fathoms of chain out, with the ship's head to the southward, I took the following bearings : — Old custom-house, N.E. ^ N. ; end of wharf, E. \ S. ; point Remedies, S.S.E. f E. ; wharf distant about three-fourths of a mile. When the ship swung with her head to the northward, I had the street leading to the wharf in view. Keep the old custom-house open tvith the hbiffio avoid some rocky patches." The COAST. — From Acajutla to Istapa the distance is about 56 miles in a W.N.W. direction. The coast consists of a beach of greyish-coloured sand, backed by a well- wooded shore, interrupted in a few places by some rivers among which are those named Grande, Caota, Santiago, Paza and Esclavos ; the entrances to these are generally indicated by the white trunks of mangrove trees, but none are of importance. The 7G ISTAPA. land at a few miles from the coast rises into mountains, among which will be noticed the Table of Apaneca, 5709 feet high, situated a little westward of the meridian of Acajutla, and the Morro de los Esclavos with its rounded summit, the elevation of which is estimated to be 4828 feet ; between this latter and the meridian of Istapa are mountains of even greater altitude. Agua rises in the form of a perfect cone to the height of 13,468 feet, and is apparently connected on its west side to Fuego volcano by means of a ridge of con- siderable altitude ; the latter mountain has two peaks at its summit, of nearly equal size and appearance, one of which is always surmounted by a panoply of smoke ; — the height of this volcano is estimated to be 14,000 feet. It is only in very clear weather that the lofty volcano westward of Fuego can be distinguished ; it is either Atitlan or Tajamulco* ; if the latter, it has a height of about 11,480 feet, and its summit forms three peaks, one of which, the middle and highest, is active. Pacayo, eastward of Agua, is 9594 feet high, and easily recognised by its jagged and irregular summit, which conveys the idea of a crater fallen in. The surf upon all this coast is extremely heavy, especially when a strong wind has prevailed a few days from southward. It is believed that no sunken dangers exist off it, and the soundings obtained indicate great regularity in the bottom, which consists apparently of muddy sand. The depth at about half a mile from the beach is 13 fathoms, and at from 1 to 3 miles 22 to 28 fathoms ; in the neighbourhood ol Acajutla the bottom is not so steep. The usual direction of the current appears to be from West to East, following the coast, at the rate of a half to 1 mile per hour. Istapa. — Istapa, formerly a port of some importance but now quite deserted, is an open roadstead, exposed to all winds from southward. The usual anchorage is at half a mile from shore, in 16 to 13 fathoms, muddy sand. In 1852 the BrilUante anchored with the volcano Agua bearing N. 3° 21' W. ; right peak of Fuego N. 15° 31' W. ; volcano of Tajamulco N. 34° 53' W. ; left summit of Pacayo N. 12° 48' E. ; and the left summit of Esclavos N. 79° 16' E. (Variation 7° 39' E.). The depth at 4 miles from the land is 20 fathoms, mud, whence it gradually decreases to the beach, f If mount Agua is brought to bear N. ^ W., Fuego N. by W. i W., or Picayo N. by E., it will lead directly to Istapa. When on any of these lines of direction the depth at a few miles from the land is 30 to 25 fathoms, whence it diminishes gradually to the beach. A low sandy shore, covered with wood, at last comes into view ; and among the trees will be seen a few grass huts, forming the village of Istapa. The bar at Istapa is so bad during July, August and September, as frequently to prevent a landing. The bottom at the anchorage at this season is so much influenced by the heavy seas sent in by the strong on-shore winds, that much dependence cannot be placed upon the anchor holding. The coast being very steep, the bar is not far from the beach. With a northerly wind and at the period of full and change of the moon the bar is frequently impracticable. * Tajamulco is situated in lat. 14° 36', and is about 28 miles westward from Istapa ; Atitlan is in about lat. 15° 12'. t Istai>a has been closed as a port for foreign vessels since 1853, when it was Euperseded by San ^086, the present port of Guatemala. Facepa^e 77 SAMMA €EU^ Nautic Mile ■ ■ ■ SAM J©SE E®A© Half Nautic Mile 12 3 4 5 Cables (Sound! ncrs in Fatlioms) '^a-'ftlo San J0se' ^j^^ j3 .-7°30'E./ (1880) / u ■flagstaff, N.hyWfM^esteH^/ ■lL.\> r,;„r. r^,^ + ,^ lat.l3° 56 ' 0" K L . *^aa"iate ' LONDOK James imrav ^ Sou SAN JOSE DE GUATEMALA. 77 The cuiTent follows the line of coast, flowing from West to East, at a rate of ■^% to Ix'o Diiles per hour. SAN JOSE. — From Istapa the coast trends about 8 miles in a westerly direction to San Jose de Guatemala or Zapote, but which is better known under the name briefly of San Jose. Its approximate geographical position is lat. 13° 56', long. 90° 45' (Nav. Officers, H.M.S. Tenedos, Fantome and Petrel, 1874). San Jose has a population of 800 to 1000 ; it is a port of some importance as the only landing place for goods on the coast of Guatemala; with this exception, it has no claim to the name of a port, being merely an open roadstead. The few grass houses composing the town are built among the trees on a high dark sandy beach ; a large white storehouse, which can be seen at a distance of miles, forms the only mark on the coast for the port. San Jose is in telegraphic communication with the capital. The anchorage is opposite the white house, in 8 to 13 fathoms sand, distant about I or 1|^ miles from the land. An iron pier, 330 yards in length, furnished with all the necessary appliances for loading, &c., has recently been constructed; at its extremity the depth is 5^ fathoms. A steamer from Panama calls here once a fortnight. A strong wind from, southward sends in so heavy a sea that at times a landing cannot be efi'ected, and at the same time disturbs the bottom so much that the anchors fre- quently drag ; hence it can be considered a safe anchorage only during the fine season. There is some difficulty in finding the anchorage of San Jose, the coast line in the neighbourhood being one unbroken line of beach and trees ; the best marks, however, on coming from seaward, are the remarkable volcanic peaks of Guatemala, generally visible at dawn ; four of these peaks can be seen from the anchorage on the following bearings: — Tajamulco N.W. f N., El Fuego N. by W. i W., La Agua North, and Pacaya N. by E. ^ E. El Fuego and La Agua being the nearest and most con- spicuous, the former may be known by a deep notch in its summit, while the latter being brought to bear North, forma the best guide till the white storehouse can be distinguished. Lirjlit. — k fixed white light is exhibited from the custom-house, visible about 10 miles ; it is not, however, to be depended on. At the end of the pier a small iron tower stands which was intended for a lighthouse, but no light is now shown from it. The mark for the best anchorage is the light at the custom-house eclipsed by the tower on the pier-head. Approaching San Jose from easiivard or westward the land for a short distance from the port may be coasted at a moderate offing, as it is believed to be free from sunken dangers, but it must be borne in mind that, as it has not been surveyed, more than usual care should be exercised ; giving the shore a berth of 2 or 3 miles will be as close to the beach as a prudent shipmaster should get, and he will then have soundings of 22 to 15 fathoms, — if this distance is maintained the land breezes will be of con- siderable advantage. In the event of the wind prevailing from S.W. or W.S.W., it will be safe in the boards to get as close to the land as one mile, in soundings of 10 or II fathoms, but not nearer. The lead should be frequently hove, the soundings being an excellent guide, as they shoal gradually. If the sea wind fail without being suc- ceeded by a strong land wind, it is recommended to anchor for the night, that the progress gained during the day may not be lost. 78 SAN JOSE. If the port bo approached directly from soiithirard, the volcano Agua should be brought to bear North, or that of Fuego N. l-i" W., as cither of those bearings will lead to it. When these mountains are hidden by haze, it is recommended to make the land about Istapa, and thence approach the roadstead until the flagstaff of the custom's establishment bears N. 20° W., when the anchor may be cast in the depth most con- venient. The usual supplies for shipping can generally be obtained at San Jose but only in small quantities, and at high prices. Reliance should not, however, be placed upon getting them, as the village consists of but little else than a few huts inhabited by the staff of the custom-house ; even water has to bo fetched from some distance in the interior. The winds at San Jose, as on other parts of the coast of Central America, are, from November to May, generally from S.S.E. by South to West, from lOh. a.m. to 8h. or 9h. P.M., a short interval of calm then follows, which is succeeded by a light wind from North to N.E. From June to November a vessel should not anchor here unless at a distance from the shore sufficient to permit her to beat off with facility when the winds are from South and S.W. which often blow with very great force and raise a very high sea. Captain W. H, Parker, P.M.S.S. Co., makes the following remarks on San Jose (1871): — " Approaching San Jose a large white house will first be observed on the port bow, after which you will make out a long wharf extending into the sea, with launches moored off it. Keep the buoy off this wharf a little on your port bow, round to off the end of the wharf, 100 yards outside of the buoy, and anchor in 9^ or 10 fathoms water and you will then be about one-third or one-half mile from the end of the wharf. Do not go to the buoy as it is rather close in. You will find tolerable holding ground, generally mud and sand. The Commandante informed me that there is 31 feet water at the end of the wharf, and 7i fathoms at the buoy at low water, but you should not go into less than 9^ fathoms. At this anchorage the flagstaff on the custom-house (large white house) is in one with the end of the wharf, and will bear about N. J W. The wharf at San Jose is built with iron screw piles, and is, I believe, 900 feet long. All freight is put into the boats or taken from them by cranes at the end of the wharf, outside the breakers. A railway runs from the custom-house to the end of the wharf, with cars moved by hand. There are many launches here and the Captain of the Port sends them off as soon as you anchor. San Jose is in lat. 13° 53', long. 90° 49'. There is a light here on the tnj) of the custom-house (not in the lighthouse at the end of the wharf), hut it cannot he depended on. I have never yet found it lighted when making the port at night. I believe it can only be seen 5 or G miles at sea. As a general rule no work is done at San Jose (nor at Acajutla nor Libertad) at night. Leaving Acapulco for the former place, if you find it impossible to reach there before night, it is better to slow down, and aim to reach there at daylight. In this way you economize in coal, avoid unnecessary risk, and save yourself much anxiety. If the weather is good, however, and the night moonlight, they will sometimes work, SAN GERONIMO, TECOJATE, AND SAN LOUIS. 79 as the last time I was there under these circumstances, I took in 898 sacks of coffue and 110 of sugar, between 6 p.m. and 7 a.m., detention thirteen hours, working two launches. In the rainy season it may be better to anchor a little farther out from San Jose, but you will be governed by the weather. A south-easter brings in a heavy sea, and sometimes communication is impossible. This whole coast is at that season subject to very violent squalls of wind and rain, attended with heavy thunder and very vivid lightning. These squalls are called Chiihascos.'' Currents. — No reliance can be placed on the set of the currents on this coast. Off San Jose it will sometimes run west for three days, and then east for the same length of time. I have been set in both directions at different times when running for the anchorage from the southward. I think generally the easterly set prevails. When approaching the coast for the Gulf of Tehuautepec you will frequently be set in towards the shore, and you must be on the lookouts for this, particularly in dark nights. Keep the lead going. I have been set to the eastward a knot or more an hour from the Gulf to San Jose. When making this anchorage from the S.E., the only safe way is to be sure and make the land to the eastward of the port. The bearing of Agua volcano is of great assistance to you here, if it can be taken." The COAST from San Jose to the frontier of Mexico is very little known, hence we are not able to describe it satisfactorily. It is reported to be low, sandy and inter- sected by lagoons, which communicate with the sea by means of narrow passes, accessible only by boats. The mountains lying behind this fiat coast are of gi-eat elevation, many of the volcanic peaks being visible at the distance of 40 miles from the shore. San Geronimo. — This village, distant about 26 miles westward from San Jose, is situated at the mouth of the river Guacalate, on which are the towns of Chimaltenango and Antigua, in the interior. It consists merely of a collection of huts, with one large house, where sugar is stored ready for shipment. Its approximate geographical posi- tion is lat. 13° 52', long. 91° 16'. There is good anchorage off the village, in the fine season, in 6 to 8 fathoms, with Agua volcano bearing N. 17° E. Being an open roadstead it is exposed on all sides, and should be avoided in bad weather. The port of clearance for this port and for the other small ports of this part of the coast, is San Jose de Guatemala. Tecojate. — This port, situated nearly 8 miles north-west of San Geronimo, is very inferior as an anchorage to the other ports of Guatemala, because the bottom is com- posed of sand of a shifting nature which necessitates the anchor being raised every day. Tecojate is built on the right bank of the entrance of Coyolate river; on the opposite side stands the village of Tiquisate. The nearest town is Santa Ana Mistam, distant about 10 miles in a north-westerly direction. San iiouis. — This place is known by two large sheds (probably storehouses for coffee) with huts on each side. It is situated at the entrance of the river Samala, and its ap- proximategeographicalpositionislat.l4° 13', long. 91° 47' (Capt. Parker, P.M.S.S. Co.). 80 CHAMPERICO, TONALA BAR, &c. During the fiue season, from the middle of October to the end of May, vessels can auchor here without risk ; but at other times of the year the anchorage should be avoided, as dangerous. This port is connected by road with the principal towns of the province ; namely — Mazatengo, Retaluleu, and Quezaltenango. Champerieo. — Champerico, 12 miles north-west from San Louis, may be known from seaward by a large white bouse, a white flagstaff and a number of huts. Its approximate geographical position is stated to be lat. 14° 20', long. 91° 57' (Captain Parker, P.M.S.S. Co.), and it is distant about 76 miles from San Jose. During the dry season many vessels load coffee here ; during the wet season, from July to November, the anchorage is extremely bad, as the sea then breaks furiously a considerable distance from shore. The anchorage may be found by steering directly for the flagstaff until the lead indicates a depth of 6 to 8 fathoms. From this anchorage Fuego volcano will bear N. 65° E. ; and Agua volcano, distant about 80 miles, N. 68° E. The merchandise exported from this port, which is increasing in importance, comes chiefly from the towns of Retaluleu and Quezaltenango, which are 20 to 30 miles inland. The COAST. — From Champerico the coast trends north-westward and westward about 200 miles to the entrance of the great lagoons of Tehuantepec, named the Boca Barra, also known as the San Francisco bar. Of all this coast we possess little or no information, and we believe that it contains no ports that are frequented by foreign vessels. It is said to be low and sandy, and to contain many lagoons which communi- cate with the sea by means of narrow channels navigable only by boats. The mountains behind this low flat shore rise to a great height, and many of the volcanic peaks ai'e sufficiently lofty to be visible when at the distance of 40 miles from the land. The soundings off this coast are regular, and no known danger exists at a greater distance than one mile off shore. The whole coast from Tonala bar to San Jose can be run at a distance of 3 miles, in about 7 or 8 fathoms water. " ' In lat. 14° 48', long. 92° 30' we are infoi-med there is a village known as San Beiiito, where vessels visit in the dry season, to load hides and India rubber. In lat. 15° 54', long. 93° 39' is Soconusco bluff, at the back of which, in the interior, is a volcano about 5000 feet high, known as Soconusco volcano. Tonala Bar, in about lat. 16° 10', long. 94° 10', extends out a few miles seaward and it is advisable to give the shore in this locality a berth of at least 4 miles. Westward' from Tonala there are many detached huts along the shore, and there is a village, in lat. 16° 13', long. 94° 40', on the beach near San Francisco bar, distant about 30 miles from Tonala bar. It is stated that in lat. 16° 13', long. 94° 37', about 2 miles east of San Francisco bar, is a remarkable hill or morro, marked with white strips of sand : it has high land in its rear and moderately high bluffs to the right and left, with very low land intervening. In lat. 16° 14', long. 94" 47' there is a village with a conspicuous church having a white cupola and backed by the beach. There is another similar village 9 miles to the westward, in lat. 16° 15', long. 94° 56'.* TEHXTANTEPEC z.AaooNS. — These lakes extend into the land about 12 miles and have an extent east and west of nearly 40 miles. They are, we believe, useless for the * Captain W. H. Parker, P.M.S.S. Co., 1871. YENTOSA BAY. 81 )F>urpose3 of navigation and are mentioned chiefly because at a few miles westward from them are the thriving towns of Juchitan and Tehuantepec, having populations respectively of 6000 and 13,000; at the latter town are, sixteen churches, and a college was estab- lished in 1850. The approximate geographical position of the entrance to the lakes, known as the Boca Barra, is lat. 1G° 13', long. 94° 52'; the latter is too shallow to admit vessels even of moderate size. On the bar breakers constantly prevail, which add greatly to the difficulty experienced in running in. Within the enti-ance are numerous shoals of shifting sand. The soundings immediately outside the Boca Barra are 2-i- to 4 fathoms, fine clayey sand. The current from the lakes through this boca, in November 1850, flowed at the rate of 7^ miles per hour. From the Boca Barra the coast trends westward about 22 miles to the bay of Yen- tosa, and is throughout low and sandy, consisting for the greater part of this distance of a narrow beach separating the Tehuantepec lagoons from the sea. The soundings at 1^ to 2 miles from it are 5^ to 8 fathoms, on clayey sand. VBrjTOSA B-aif is situated in about lat. 16° 10|-', long. 95'' 16', or about 12 miles south-eastward from the town of Tehuantepec. It is not very extensive, being only 2 or 3 miles across ; but it presents some advantages which the other bays on this coast do not possess. Although open to southward and eastward, vessels may safely ride at anchor in it, as the holding-ground is excellent, and the depth of 6 and 7 fathoms which prevails over almost all the bay, is very convenient. The soundings are gradual from 3 fathoms at the distance of 100 yards from the beach, to 7 and 8 fathoms at 1000 yards; and the anchorage is on a muddy bottom extending E.N.E. from Morro point, its south-west extremity. The western shore consists of low sandy land, en- closing some lagoons, which receive the waters of the river Tehuantepec. This bay has been proposed as the Pacific termination of a railway across the isthmus of Tehuantepec from the Gulf of Mexico, the construction of which is reported to present DO difiiculties of greater magnitude than an engineer of ordiuai-y ability would be able to overcome. Point Ventosa, the western extreme of the bay, is a high sandy point ; it is easily recognised as it is the last of the high land when coming from northwai'd. Eastward of Ventosa the land is very low. On Yentosa point (known also as the Morro) is a tolerably high stone tower, roofed in and with windows near the top ; near it is a flag- staff'. This tower cannot be seen to the westv.'ard of North ; consequently to vessels going eastward it comes into view as they pass the point. It should also be borne in mind that to the westward of the point the water is very deep, while*to the eastward there are regular soundings. Mr. Temple says "I am of opinion that Yentosa bay is not only the best, bat the point for a harbour on the Pacific coast of the isthmus. It is a far better and safer port than either Yalparaiso or Monterey ; ports in constant use the year throughout. I speak from personal observation, as well as from an examination of the several charts, and the similarity of outline has suggested the comparison ; for, although the indentation of the coast is possibly a little deeper at each of these places than at Ventosa, yet they are both open to northward, and as the general trend of the coast is a 82 VENTOSA BAY. nearly north and south, the provailiDg gales blow directly along shore and into these harbours, creating a heavy swell, and often forcing vessels to slip and go to sea for safety: whereas, at Ventosa the trend of the coast is east and west, so that the "northers" blow directly off-shore, and create no swell whatever. The danger being from the sudden strain brought upon a cable by the surging of a vessel in a sea-way, and not from the steady strain caused by the wind, it follows that "northers" may be disregarded in an estimate of the safety of this anchorage, as was satisfactorily shown in the case of tho Gold Hunter. But "northers", although frequent during the winter, and seldom occumng at other seasons, are the only gales that blow in this region. The southerly winds, characteristic of the summer and autumn, are said to be nothing more than thunder squalls of short duration, and incapable of raising a sea. Even the fresh and steady sea-breezes that prevailed during the latter portion of our stay at Ventosa bay were unaccompanied by any increase of swell." The following is an extract from the report on Ventosa bay by the engineer, P. E. Trastour, Esq. : — " The western extremity of the bay is formed by the Cerro Morro, an isolated rock of oblong shape, rounded at the summit, about 150 feet high and 2600 feet in circum- ference ; and a little more to the south by a pointed rock, separated from the former by an interval filled in with sand, and forming an angular projection into the sea, known under the name of the point of the Morro. On the west, the point of the Morro is contiguous, by its base, to an uninterrupted series of rocky hills, lining the beach and covering an extent of 6000 feet. They cut perpendicularly the flank and rear of an agglomeration of moderate heights, somewhat rugged and precipitous at their summits, and forming together a thick cluster of grani- toidal structure dispoed in strata wherein feldspar and amphibole are predominant. It is the last link of that chain which, detaching itself at the north-west from the Cordillera of Oaxaca, descends by an irregular series of decreasing heights, passes to the north of Huamelula, turning it at the south-east, and terminates at the Pacific ocean, where it separates the bay of Ventosa from the bay of Salina Cruz. The sandy strand of Ventosa commences at the foot of the lateral portion of the Cerro Morro, facing the east, and describes from the south to the north-east an are nearly 2^ miles in length ; then takes an easterly and almost rectilinear direction, but drawing a little towards the south, extends on about 6 miles farther, where it runs into the sea ; after which it turns back again abruptly jind inclines towai"ds the north, though trending all the while in an easterly direction. From the summit of the Cerro Morro looking towards the east, the beach loses itself in a distant horizon, and unfolds to the eye a long belt of white sand from 200 to 300 feet wide, terminating inland by a vast plain, scarcely broken upon by the isolated hillocks of Huazontlan. This plain, of a slightly undulating nature, is composed of sand, clay, and vegetable earth. It is covered with trees of moderate size, which grow both thinner and smaller, as one advances towards the cast. But in the direction of the Cordillera which separates the isthmus into two parts, north and south, this alluvial country is generally flat, presenting at rare intervals detached heights, easily avoided in the planniug of a road of any character whatever, offering to the view fields of com, VENTOSA BAY. 83 indigo, Bugar-cano, palm-trees, nopals, bananas, orange-trees, eocoanut-trees, and plants of which the vigour and variety bear witness to the great fertility of the soil. The sandy beach of Ventosa itself is cut by lagoons of little depth, having several outlets into the sea, and by the bed of the Tehuantepec river. At the time of the periodical overflow, this current flows over a low country before reaching the Pacific ocean, in which it then empties itself, not only by its mouth, but also by means of those lagoons, its sole outlets during the dry season. The volume of the water of the river is subject to very great variations in the course of the year. In the rainy season it reaches 12 feet depth, in years of an extraordinary character. The rainy season usually commences in the month of June and finishes in the beginning of October. The isthmus, in general, oifers as many diflerent climates as localities, difl'ering from one another by their situation, the nature of their soil, the atmospheric phenomena, and the position of their mountains in respect to the cardinal points. Advantages. — The immense basin of Ventosa presents a safe and commodious har- bour to vessels of all sizes. Closed at the west by the heights of the Mouro, it is open at the south and east. This configuration of the bay allows vessels to have ingress and egress, irrespective of the quarter from which the wind blows. Throughout its great extent, and on entering it from the sea, no shoals are to be met with ; every- where a good anchorage is to be found. The bottom is of compact sand, and a great proportion of it is mixed with clay. The depth is almost regularly graduated ; it presents at from 850 to 8000 feet distance from the shore, a progressive running from 17 to 53 feet, and averaging, for the first 1000 feet, 2 feet increase per 100 feet, and about G inches per 100 feet for the following 1000 feet. The greatest difference that has been observed in the level of the water was (Sh feet. Winds. — Besides the variable winds, which are rather light, and the land and sea breezes of the morning and evening, two prevalent winds, the N.N.E. and S.S.W. winds, reign during a great portion of the year on the southern coast of the isthmus. The first of these two atmospheric currents is not felt at GO miles east of Ventosa, beyond the Barra de Tonala ; nor at 62 miles west, beyond the mountain of Chahube, wbich bounds ou the west the lagoon of Tengulunda. The N.N.E. wind usually begins to blow about the 15th of October and caases in the fore part of April. In the month of November it blows without interruption, and at that time it reaches its maximum. Towards the middle of December it ceases during intervals of from 10 to 12 days, and then begins anew to blow one or two weeks. These alterations or interruptions and renewals are reproduced at short and unequal periods. But the length of the period of discontinuance goes on gradually increasing till the wind only blows one day, and finally ceases completely. The Indians of Santa Maria del Mar are familiar with the indications announcing the coming ofthe N.k.E. winds. In the evening at about sun-down, if the summits of the mountains of Guichicovi and San Miguel Chimalapa (seen from the coast) are concealed from the view by quantities of slate-coloured vapour, it is indicative that the g2 84 SALINA CRUZ. "northers" will blow the day following, and will last as many days as the summits of those Cordilleras continue to bo covered with similar clouds. Vapour of a correspond- ing hue, seen at the same hour, at the horizon of the Pacific ocean, announces that the S.S.W. wind will blow on the day following. The S.S.W. wind, which in winter succeeds the North wind, during one or two days at most, is the only general wind prevailing during the months of June, July, and August. After some gales of more or less intensity, which may be compared to the violence of the North wind, and not exceeding 1^ to 2 hours' duration, the southerly wind is definitely fixed. Towards evening its intensity decreases till the next morning, when the same phenomenon is renewed. Still, this wind is subject to more interruption than the North wind, and the intervals of repose last longer. The S.S.W. wind, passing over the ocean, reaches the coast of the isthmus laden with vapours, which at certain hours of the day resolve themselves into abundant showers. In winter and in summer, during the prevalence of the southerly and northerly winds, the current of the sea is from east to west; its greatest velocity is about 1^ miles per hour. This continual movement in the waters of the Pacific is only dis- cernible at a distance of about 6000 feet from the shores of Ventosa. The bay of Ventosa is much safer than the harbour of Vera Cruz. Violent tempests frequently render the latter inaccessible during several days, and even when the North wind blows, the communication between the town and the vessels in the harbour is interrupted. During our sojourn at the isthmus of Tehuantepec, we never had to record one tempest or hurricane on the Pacific ocean. In December 1850, while we were at Ventosa, the N.N.E. wind blew (off shore) with extreme violence from the 7th to the 17th of that month, and we remarked, with surprise, that the sea was not agitated. To enable one to appreciate the condition of the sea at Ventosa, such as it actually is, it would perhaps be well here to mention that our soundings were effected by means of an open boat, 5 feet beam by 18 feet long, which we had brought from New Orleans, and which was conveyed across the Cordillera ; with this boat we were able to sail out 8 miles into the open sea." SAI.INA CRUZ. — This bay lies to the westward of Ventosa point; from this point . the sandy beach of Salina Cruz trends westerly for about 2 miles and bending to the southward terminates at Salina Cruz point, a rocky projection, off which are several clusters of rocks, above and under water, to the extent of a cable ; outside these rocks the water is deep, the soundings being 8 and 9 fathoms. In the bay the depth increases from 4 fathoms near the shore to 8 and 10 fathoms at 3 cables from the sandy beach. The village lies on the western corner of the bay, and on the side of a hill to the right of the huts are the ruins of a large building of a reddish colour. At a quarter of a mile north of the point, at the foot of the high ground, is a spring. The anchorage is said to be superior to that of Ventosa and equally well sheltered from northerly winds. The geographical position of Salina Cruz point, according to the U.S. survey of 1871, is lat. 16° 9' 54", long. 95" 20'. It is intended to construct a breakwater which will extend out from the east side of Salina Cruz point about 4 cables in an easterly direction. GUATULCO, &c. 85 Baiina del Marques lies to tho westward of Balina Cruz and is similarly formed, about 2^ miles in extent, with lagoons at the back of the strand. The town of Tekuantepec lies to the northward of the bays just described and is distant about 11 or 12 miles from port Ventosa in a north-westerly direction. Morro'Ayuca. — From Salina Cruz the coast trends in a W.S.W.-ly direction, about 40 miles to the Morro Ayuca, and is but little known. This is the southern point of an open bay, the extent of which is about 1^ miles, and whose shore is low and sandy. Here vessels may anchor in 6 or 7 fathoms, fine sand, at three-quarters of a mile from the laud, but only when the wind is from northward, for a strong wind from southward or south-eastward sends in so heavy a sea as greatly to endanger the vessel being driven on shore. A reef, with a depth of 3 and 4 fathoms almost close to it, surrounds the Morro for a short distance, and extends from its northern side about 1^ cables; some of the rocks are, we believe, always visible. The Morro is a bold cliffy point, and its position, according to Sir E. Belcher, R.N., is lat. 15° 51' 56", long. 95° 43' 56". GUATULCO. — From the Morro Ayuca the coast continues to trend in a similar direc- tion as that just mentioned, about 25 miles to the little harbour of Guatulco, which according to Sir E. Belcher, R.N., is in lat. 15° 44' 24", long. 96° 8'. It is formed by a rocky point which encloses on its, west side a bay having a width not exceeding a third of a mile, and which extends nearly half a mile to the north-westward. The soundings are 9 to 4 fathoms, gradually decreasing to the beach at its head ; a flat of 1\ to 'Ah fathoms water extends from its north-eastern side nearly a cable, so that the deepest water is in the middle or over to the south side of the bay. A reef, having some rocks upon it above water, extends out in an easterly direction from the rocky point about 1^ cables ; and, outside this a short distance, but separated from it by a narrow channel of 10 fathoms, are some rocky islets, having sunken rocks about them. Port Guatulco aff"ords shelter from all winds except those from south-eastward, which blow directly in ; hence it is a convenient anchorage in the summer months. Mr. Masters says of Guatulco and the coast eastward of it=;= : — " On entering the gulf of Tehuantepec, near the shore, we found the current setting to the W.S.W. 1^ miles per hour. As the wind was easterly and light, we made a stretch to the southward, and in lat. 15°, long. 95° 30', I had a boat lowered and tried the current, and fuund it setting S.S.E., 1 mile per hour; there had been a fresh breeze from the eastward the day previously. The following afternoon we were close in-shore, and found, as we approached the land, that the current had gradually altered, and was setting to the W.S.W. We came to an anchor the same evening in the bay of Bamba, which is to the south-west of Morro de Zipegua, the current setting to the W.S.W. nearly 2 miles per hour. After a fresh S.W. or southerly sea breeze, the current close in-shore has run to the S.E., but this is not general, and does not last a long time. * Nautical Magazine 1839.— The positions of Mr. Masters are about 7 miles nortliward and 9 miles westward of those by Sir E. Belcher. The whole of this coast is very imperfectly known, and many of the places mentioned by Mr. Masters cannot be recognised on existing charts. 86 GUATULCO, &c. Whilst we were getting to the eastward in the gulf of Tehuantepcc, wc experienced a slight "norther"; as we stretched off-shore it hauled into the N.E.; a disagreeable short sea arose, the wind blowing in gusts, and the weather hazy. Santa Cruz, port of Guatulco, in lat. 15° 51', long. 90° 17', is veiy difficult to make. It is situated in a small bay, about half a mile wide at its entrance, and runs in north- ward upwards of H miles. At the bottom of the bay is a sandy beach, and on its eastern side arc two huts which cannot be seen unless close in-shore. At three- quarters of a mile E.S.E. from the eastern point of the bay is the Piedra Blanca, a reef of rocks extending east and west about a quarter of a mile. The western part of the reef is about 40 feet high, and for about one -third of its length it is of the same elevation, but the remaining two-thirds to the eastward is low, and in places level with the water. When abreast it, and off shore a few miles, it appears to be a part of the coast. Although it is called Piedra Blanca, it is a dark irregularly-shaped reef of rocks. The anchorage in Santa Cruz is said to be good. It is well sheltered from all winds except between East and S.E, by S. ; but, as the strongest winds blow from north- ward, except in the rainy season, it may be considered a very safe port. It is the only place that can be considered a harbour, eastward of Acapuico ; and even in the rainy season, I was informed, a vessel might lie there in perfect security. The depth of water in the bay is from 7 to 9 fathoms, with a clear bottom. About 3 miles E.N.E. from Santa Cruz, is the island Tangolatangola, which is separated from the main by a channel a quarter of a mile wide. This makes from the westward as a part of the main land ; the outer part of it is quite bluff, or rather a cliff of a brownish stone, the strata of which are horizontal, and have the same geo- logical appearance as the land on the main nearest it towards the N.E., and of the same height, namely, about 150 feet. Within the island and round the western side, is the entrance of the bay of Tangolatangola ; it runs in about N.E., 2 miles. At the bottom of the bay is a fine sandy beach. The anchorage is said to be very good in it, but not equal to Santa Cruz. Its entrance is neai'ly a mile across, and continues nearly the same to the bottom. Westward, half a mile from the head which forms the western part of the bay or harbour of Santa Cruz, is a bluff point or head, under which is a good leading-mark for knowing the harbour. There is a cave in one of the rocks, level with the water, and close in-shore, and every swell that heaves in throws a quantity of water into it, and as the cave has a small aperture in the upper part of it, the water flies up resem- bling the spout of a large whale. It has often been- taken for one by strangers, and deceived us by its appearance. In the night time, or foggy weather, when it is calm, or blowing a light breeze, the sound can be heard at some distance, like a whale blowing. This place is called the Bufadero. When about 5 miles off the shoi'e from the Bufadero, the western extreme point of land has a broken rocky appearance, and is not so high as the land adjoining. When about 2 leagues off-shore from the Bufadero, another cape, farther westward, can be seen. Its extreme point is I'ather low, but rises gradually iulaaid to a moderate elevation. GUATULCO, &c. 87 Westward of Santa Cruz are tWo bluff heads, which, when abreast of, might be taken for islands. The, first is about 3 miles from the port; the other is 2 miles further westward, and has a white sandy beach on its western side. On the eastern side of the eastern head there is also a small sandy beach, from which to the Bufadero the coast is rocky. The land which crowns this part of the coast is covered with stunted trees and brushwood. About 4 or 5 leagues N. 8° 30' W. is the Cerro Zadan, having a bell-shaped top, and a ridge on the north-east side connecting it with the higher range of the Cordilleras. The Cerro Zadan is elevated above the sea rather more than 6000 feet. The mountains farther inland, a few leagues, cannot be much short of 10,000 feet high, as they can be seen over the Cerro Zadan. The port of Guatulco is so bad to make, that vessels have been upwards of a fort- night in searching for it ; and it was by the greatest chance possible that we had not passed it, although we were not 1^ miles from the shore. The two huts, which were on the beach, can scarcely be distinguished from the trees near which they are built. From Morro de Ystapa the coast runs about E.N.E. to Punta de Zipegua, in lat. 16° 1', long. 95° 28' 30". Between these points are several bluff headlands, which do not project far out from the general line of the coast, and afford no shelter. Punta de Zipegua forms the eastern part of what is called the bay of Bamba, and is a very remarkable headland. From the westward it shows itself with a bold dark cliff to the sea, about 400 feet high. It projects out from the western line of coast nearly a mile, making like a double head. A short distance within the outer bluff is a peaked hill, with the appearance of a light-coloured sandstone, and quite bare of vegetation. Farther inland, between 1 and 2 miles, the ground rises higher, in small hummocks, a few of which are quite bare, and others have a small quantity of stunted trees and bushes scattered over them. The head, forming the western side of the bay of Bamba, is not so high, nor does it rise so suddenly from the sea as Punta de Zipegua. It is also covered with bushes. The eastern side of Punta de Zipegua is covered with bushes and trees, the sand only showing through the soil in a very few places. When abreast of it, and off the shore from 2 to 8 miles, the current was running to windward W.S.W., from 2i to 3 miles an hour. About N,E. from Punta de Zipegua, 4 or 5 miles, is a high reef of rocks called Piedra de Zipegua, or Machaguista, in the chart island of Eschevan. Its greatest elevation is from 60 to 70 feet ; and its length is about a third of a mile in an E.S.E. and W.N.W. direction. It is said that there are no dangers near it but what can be seen. Between it and the main, from which it is about 4 miles distant, in a N.W. direction, is good anchorage ; the best anchorage is close to the reef. The pearl oysters are plentiful near this reef; they are caught by the divers in the rainy season. The general line of coast, from Punta de Zipegua towards Tehuantepcc, runs about N.E. by N. easterly. As I had now passed northward and eastward of the position where, by my instruc- tions, I was led to believe our cargo was, we hauled to the wind, with a fresh breeze from the southward, and made a tack or two to fetch the bay of Bamba. At 4h. p.m. we came to anchor abreast the western part of the beach, in 9 fathoms, sandy bottom, off-shore 1^ miles. As soon as we anchored, I went on shore to ascertain where the 88 GUATULCO, &c. wood was cut for our cargo, and, with difficulty, got to speak with an Indian, who wa3 greatly alarmed at seeing such a large canoe (as he called the brig), and thought we were come to plunder the coast. Shortly after landing, the proprietor came down on horseback, and stated that he believed there was some brazil wood at a place called Rosai'io, (in my instractions it was called St. Francis de Guatulco), and that Rosario was scYcral leagues nearer Guatulco. He said that ours was the only vessel larger than a canoe, that had been on this part of the coast for a great number of yeai's. No vessel had ever loaded hereabouts. The beach, or Playa do Bamba, is about 5 miles long, and must bo very bad to land on, with a fresh sea breeze. There was more surf on it when we landed than was quite agreeable ; and the boat was half-filled, although the wind was blowing along the coast. We remained at anchor until the morning, and got under way with the land breeze, keeping at about half a mile from the shore, excepting vhen abreast of the headlands. In the evening we came again to an anchor, in 9 fathoms, sandy bottom, opposite a small sandy beach, 1| miles from the shore; having seen nothing during the day like wood piled up, or anything in the shape of a signal. In the morning we again got under way, and stood to the westward; and at lOh. a.m. were off the port of Guatulco. I sent the boat on shore to enquire for the place where our cargo was lying; an Indian got into the boat, fi'om whom I learned that we had passed it, and, as he knew the place, I kept him on board, and made all sail, with the Avind S.W., for the place, and at Gh. p.ii. came to an anchor in the bay of Rosario. The town of Guatulco is 8 leagues from the port, and this is the only port in the state of Oajaca, where goods can be imported. Its commerce can be easily imagined when the person who is administrator of the customs, is also captain of the port, &c, ; indeed he is the only individual, both in the marine and custom-house departments, with the exception of an old man, who lives at the port, and sends him information when there is any arrival. Mexican vessels can load on the coast by having an order from any custom-house in the Republic where they may have touched at ; but foreign vessels are compelled to touch at Santa Cruz to pass the custom-house visit. From the island Tangolatangola to the bay of Rosario there are several small head- lands, which do not project much beyond the general line of coast, with the exception of Morro de las Salinas de Rosario. Most of them have a steep cliff facing the sea, with fine sandy beaches between them, at the back of which are scattered a few small trees and bushes ; the land rising in very irregular-shaped hills towards the Cordilleras. Abreast of the beaches, between the heads, I found the anchorage quite clear ; and when in 9 to 12 fathoms water, the distance ofi"- shore is about a mile, with sandy bottom. The west side of the bay of Rosario is formed by the Morro de las Salinas de Rosario, and is in lat. 15° 50' 25", long. 90° 2'. It projects about a mile beyond the line of coast. On its western side is a beach 4 or 5 miles in length to the next head. When abreast of Morro do las Salinas, it appears like an island with two large rocks abreast its eastern and western part, but the whole is connected with the main. What appears to be the eastei'u rock, is a broken rocky head, about 160 feet high. The western is about half that elevation. Both these heads terminate with a broken cliff; GUATULCO, &c. 89 tbe tops of thera are bare and of a grcylsb colour, but the lower part is quite bhacl-:, caused by the sea breaking against them. Between these heads is a small sandy bay, at the foot of the Morro, which rises gradually from the beach to the top of the hill ; this is about 180 to 200 feet high, and presents a verry barren appearance, having but a few straggling bushes on it. The beach of Rosario is 10 miles long, from Morro de las Salinas to Morro de la Laguua Grande which is its eastern extremity. At about half the distance between the Morros, is a rock on the beach, about 40 feet high, and nearly the same diameter at spring tides. The water flows round it. During the time of our lying in the bay of Rosario, which was from the 12th of February to the 1st of April, we had three smart " northers," which came on at fall and change of the moon. At this time the surf runs very heavy on the beach. Our boat was capsized several times while we lay here, in lauding and coming oflf. At times the sea broke very heavily in all parts of the bay, that is, on the beach. I was caught on shore, a few days after arriving here, during the first "norther," which came on suddenly, with a parching hot wind. A cross confused sea hove in from the south and north-east. The wind must have blown strongly out in the gulf, from the same direc- tion ; and, though it blew heavily for three days, with the wind at times to the westward of North, the sea kept up until sometime after the "norther" had ceased blowing. This is not generally the case, for a strong "norther" (and particularly if it veers round to N.N.W.,) beats the sea down ; at which time the landing is attended with little or no risk, which Was the case when we had the last tv/o " northers ". I was informed (and, judging from appearances, I think correctly,) that very often when the wind is North or N.N.W., close in-shore, it is N.E. in the ofiing, which makes it impossible to land on the coast. I remarked whilst lying here, at the full and change of the moon, and when no " norther " was blowing, that, although the surf ran so high that no boat could laud, the vessel lay without any motion. We were moored at less than 800 fa- thoms from the shore. The surf appeared not to be caused by a swell I'olliug in and agitating the sea at the surface, but to rise from below, and without any apparent cause, as we had light winds and fine weather the most of the time we lay here. On another occasion, I was caught on shore with a boat's crew for three days. In attempting to get off to the ship, the boat was capsized and stove. It was then, and had been for a week previous, nearly a calm. The heavy ground-swell invariably hove in from the S.S.W. We fortunately escaped from this beach without losing any of our people, which was more than I expected, having had three laid up at differen4 times, who were saved from being drowned by a mere chance. In addition to what has been said about this part of the coast, it can be known by the low land at the back of the beach of Rosario, which runs in from 1 to 2h leagues before there is much rise in it, and is thickly covered with trees. From North to N.W. of Morro de las Salinas, nearly 2 leagues from shore, the rising ground is formed by a number of small barren hillocks. From our anchorage, at the place where we loaded, the following bearings were taken, lying in 9 3- fathoms, sandy bottom. There are two large patches of a whitish appearance, the farthest range of the Cordilleras ; the eastern is the lowest, and bore N. 59.^° W. The appearance cannot be seen, unless from a little to westward of Morro de las Salinas. This has every appearance of being a 90 GUATULCO, Sec. waterfall, and rises from the other patch in a N.W. direction, at about an angle of 45°. It issues from a small valley iu the Cerro del Chonga. The highest point of this range has but a small elevation above it, and is covered with trees. The waterfall inclines towards the south, and can be seen for several hundred feet descending, before it is lost sight of amidst the forest below. Cerro de Zadan bore N. 89° W. ; the extreme bluff of Morro de las Salinas, S. 3G° W., 3^ miles ; the eastern point well within the bear- ings, and Puuta de la Laguna Grande, N. 71° E., G to 7 miles ; the rock on the beach, mentioned as being 40 feet high, N. G5° E. ; and the galena or shed, under which the cargo was piled, N. 2G° W., half a mile. At the western part of the bay are four palm trees, close to the beach. The distance from the Morro de las Salinas is about half a mile, and between these trees and the Morro is a large cluster of palms. Between these two clusters is, at all times, the best place to land, as a boat can beach here with comparative safety, when, at every other part of the bay the sea runs very heavy. At the neaps we found the place quite smooth, with the exception of a sea heaving in about every 10 or 15 minutes ; but it causes no risk to a boat, provided she is kept end on. At the south-western part of the beach, and where a small pathway leads to cross the Morro de las Salinas, close to the sea side, in the cliff of a rock is a small spring of excellent water. We always found it clear and cool, even at noon ; my consignee said we could fill the ship's stock of water from it with dispatch, but I soon found out that he knew nothing about it. The quantity that could be filled in a day did not exceed 30 gallons ; and, after having landed all our water-casks, we had to re-ship them, through a great deal of surf, and land them at the galena, abreast of the ship. We filled our water at a well about a mile from the beach, but the supply was very limited, it being the only well that had water in it up to the day of our sailing. We did not complete our stock. Near the Morro de la Laguna is a large lake, from which the headland takes its name. A few miles farther eastward is the Morro de Santiago de Ystapa (in the chart it is called Morro de Ayuta), near which is the entrance of the small river Ayuta, the stream that runs by Huamilulu and Ystapa. There is a bar across the entrance. The canoes land on the beach iu preference to going over it, as it is attended with danger." The following remarks are by Captain Parker, P.M.S.S. Co., 1871 :— " Port Guatulco, in lat. 15° 45', long. 96° 4', is recognized by the Bufadero. All this coast, from Washington bluff to port Sacrificios can be approached within two miles. The current in the dry season (winter) is generally to the S.E. and East along the land ; during the summer months (May to November) with southerly weather it is supposed to run to the N.W. and west. As you are constantly in the influence of the tides you will find it very variable at all seasons. You will now enter the gulf of Tehuantepec, and if in the summer or rainy season, a course should be shaped for the coast of Guatemala if bound for San Jose ; or for cape Blanco, if to Panama via Puuta Arenas. If bound to Panama direct from Tartar shoal, shape a course about E. by S. f S. for Montuosa island ; in the months of May, June, July, August and September by doing 60 you avoid the heavy rains and squalls found closer in-shore. PORTS SACRIFICI03 AND ANGELES. 91 You will find it necessar}-^ to keep more to the southward, say E.S.E. after the first day, as from that time until passing cape Blanco a strongN.W. or W.N. W. current \\ill be experienced. In the winter season (from October to April) it is advisable to haul up round port Sacrificios towards the head of the gulf of Tehuantepec ; the object being to keep under the lee of the land, in smooth water, in case it blows from the northward. I would here remark that, a gi'ay mist hanging over the mountains and a red sunset, — the red extending toward the zenith, — are sure indications of a norther ; and if on entering the gulf, either from the eastward or westwai*d, you meet with a north-westerly swell, a norther will surely follow. Sometimes double-headed clouds are seen to the northward, with clouds or mist hanging over the tops of the mountains ; at others it will blow a fresh gale without a cloud in the sky. The barometer does not indicate them, nor does the temperature of the water. These winds commence from the N.E. or N.N.E., veer round to the northward, and as you advance into the gulf veer to the N.W., and finally die out at West as you approach the coast of Guatemala. From Sacrificios to Ventosa you can follow the land at a distance of a mile. The whole coast between these points is put on the chart about four miles too far to the westward. Estrete island lies in lat. 15° 58', long. 95° 29' ; it is a large white rock. In about lat. 15" 59', long. 95° 20', is a remarkable sand down, a high blufi", visible a long way. It is about 16 miles from point Ventosa, and the first after passing Sacrificios, though there are one or two between it and Salina Cruz. About half a mile ofi" the first bluff to the N.E. of Estrete island, and between it and the sand down there is a rock awash, the only known outlying danger." Sacrificios is a little port situated about 10 miles south-westward from Guatulco. In front of it is an islet, about a quarter of a mile in extent, which shelters the bay from easterly winds ; this islet is surrounded by rocks, and the shore of the bay is also lined with rocks to a considerable distance. The depth of the anchoi'age is about 4 fa- thoms on sand. The approximate geographical position of the bay, according to Capt. Parker, P.M.S.S. Co., 1871, is lat. 15° 43', long. 96° 12'. It is high water on the days of full and change of the moon at 3h. 15m. p.m. ; the rise of tide is about 6 feet. A rock, on which the U.S.S. Tuscarora touched three times when attempting to get an anchorage off the entrance of Sacrificios bay, is stated to be about 1^ cables S.S.E. ^ E. from the south-west point of Sacrificios island. The rock has 11 feet water on it at low tide. Port Sacrificios is difficult to recognise. It is recommended therefore always to take your departure from White rock, an excellent mark, lying a mile off shore about 16^ miles to the westward of the port. White rock, according to Capt. Parker, P.M.S.S. Co., is in lat. 15° 40', long. 96° 30'. Port Angeles is a small harbour suitable only for schooners, &c., lying about 15 miles westward of port Sacrificios and 1\ miles eastward of the White rock mentioned in the previous paragraph. It is a port of entry for the city of Oajaca, and has been open to foreign eommerce sincti February 1868. The landing here is said to be bad, 92 MALDONADO POINT. behind some rocks, aud the 6urf is very violent. We have no instructions of recent dute relating to it. Tho COAST westward of port Angeles, as far as Acapuico, a distance of about 200 miles, is very imperfectly known ; it should, therefore, have a wide berth given to it. It is stated that in lat. 15° 50', long. 97° 8' there is a high bluff with huts on it among the trees, and 3 or 4 miles eastward of this, a river, probably the Rio Sicaleta, 5 miles eastward of which is another river, the Rio Colotepec. In lat. 15° 55', long. 97° 21' are two white rocks, known as the Alcatrazes ; to the westward of these are a few huts. About 11 miles westward of the Alcatrazes is a large high bluflf, 5 miles wide, known as Morro Hermoso, the geographical position of which is stated to be lat. 15° 58', long, 97° 82' ; 7 miles forther westward a smaller bluff (Little Morro) will be observed, close to the eastward of which is a reef and at the back of it a large lagoon. In lat. 15° 59', long. 97° 48' is a river known as the Rio Verde; in rainy weather the water in the neighbourhood of this river is frequently much discoloured. There are a few huts midway between the Little Morro and the Rio Verde.* maidonado Point and adjacent Shoals. — Maldonado or Escondido point, the western extremity (El Recodo) of which is in lat. 16° 18' 40", long. 98° 82' (U.S. Government Survey, 1878) is a tolerably well defined point, but cannot be recognised from the west- ward except when close in-shore, and when coming from eastward it disappears after passing the bearing of N.N. W. The shore trends from the point S.E. by E. J E. on one side and N.W. on the other. Close under and westwai-d of the point is a small bight in which is a good boat landing, one mile from which fi-esh-water is found in abundance. The coast to the icestward of Maldonado has a sandy beach, and for a distance of six miles is composed of a series of sand cliffs, 200 to 300 feet high, divided by ravines, which render them good landmarks. The coast to the eastward is rocky for a distance of 2 miles, with the exception of two small spots, each of which has a sandy beach. Within a distance of one mile from the point are several sand cliffs, about 250 feet high, which are prominent and show white to the southward. The entire country in the vicinity of the point is 300 to 400 feet high and thickly wooded. Cuacaul peak, on the eastern side of the point and close to the sea, is 400 feet in height ; the Bee Hive, 3 miles north-west of the point and nearly a mile inland, is of similar elevation. As the high land and land near the coast are frequently obscured by smoke at the close of the dry season, navigators are apt to be deceived as to their distance from the coast. Hence it is considered prudent at this time of the year to keep the lead going and not pass inside the 20-fathom line. About 2 miles south-westward of Maldonado point is a cluster of dangerous rocky patches known as the Tartar shoalsf. They have recently (1878) been examined by * Captaiu W. H. Parker, P.M.S.S. Co., 1871. t Captain Miguel Garcier, coast pilot at Acajinlco, states, that from 2 to 3 miles off Cuacaul point (about 12 miles S.E. of the river Dulce and the first break in the sandy head to the eastward) there is deep water and anchorage in 8 to 10 fathoms ; thence a shoal extends upwards of 4 miles seaward, breaking in the rainy season with S.W. gales, and having as little as 10 feet water on it, — and this information has boon corroborated by the evidence of the captains of several coasting schooners. 9 S ?../« '/i at. 16^18 ' 40'K Jt /7 JO/'' \ I / 9 in n \ 12 ■■■...i2 jg<^ " n \ 9 27 13 •■. i-:. 10 9 a Si-'i6 \8 IZ ilOi / lO ^ lO 4p \9\ n ..■■■■jL:.z.fi 31 0^ ^ ° No 9 9 '^^9 fiil)^\ 4f j] n 14 \ Hard'"corai '■*'' 9 ^-^ 7 ^'*\ afujU-mckv hottom „ ;■''"• ^ be »«■ 22 JO ^'^iO/ ' 20- 18 25 A j^ 18 13 15 16 13 91 ■><, n, t^s^^^"^^. 15 16 14 21 ~3 22 i -..^jg ^^(1880)^" 24 29 12 32 36 13 16 n le 77 19 n y'io —iO 14 16 8 9 8 8 9 8 9 9 .<: 10 ..•■■ n 10 12 13 13 16 13 1» ^^ j^ 16 l\8 IS O Cahlfis I (.Sounding's in Fathoms LONDOIT, James Tmra-y- & Son. ^^ ACAPULCO. 93 tha U.SL surveyors (see plan on Admiralty chart No. 587, 1879) and the following in- fomiation is derived from their report . — The shoals lying off Maldonado (Escondido) point, regarding 20 fathoms as the out- side limit of danger, are included between the bearings from the point of S.S.E. ^ E. 4 miles, and W. ^ N. 5 miles. Within these limits the most dangerous rocky patches may thus be described : — A 3-fathom patch, extending E. by S. and W. by N. three- quarters of a mile, lies S.W. by S. 2 miles from the point, and near its western extremity are two rocks which have respectively 7^ feet and 13^ feet water over them, A 3-fathom patch less than half a mile in extent, with a rocky head, on which there is only 16 feet water, lies S.W. by W. h W., 2 miles from the point. These two patches lie within a 6-fathom curve, with 9 fathoms all round. At about 1^ miles W.N.W. f W. from the point and about the same distance from the shore abreast, is a shoal with 2 to 3 fathoms water over it and about half a mile in extent. On the southern extremity of this shoal lies the wreck of the steamer City of San Frnucisco. For a distance of about 3 miles westwtirdof the 5-fathom line the depths are irregular, varying from 6 to 11 fathoms, but beyond that distance the soundings increase gradually in a W. by S. direction to 40 fathoms, and in a southerly direction to 100 fathoms. Note. — The actual dangei*s to navigation are situated between the parallels of 16° 17' and 16° 21' and the meridians of 98° 35' and 98° 40', but to ensure safety the caution not to pass inside the 20-fathom line should be carefully observed when passing these fchoals. Current. — The current sets in a south-easterly direction, varying between E. by S. and S.S.E. , with a velocity varying from a half to 2 knots an hour ; strongest on the ebb, E.S.E. Close into the point the flood sets to the northward and westward. It is said that during the wet season the current sets W. by N. About 6 miles S.W. of Maldonado point very heavy tide-rips were observed by the surveyors ; the depth in their locality was 18 fathoms. Duice River lies about 12 miles north-west of Maldonado point. A sunken rock is inserted in some charts opposite the river Dulce, on the authority of the ship CUo, at about 3 miles from the shore, in about lat. 16° 28', long. 98° 44'; the depth around it is stated to be 6 fathoms. ACAPXTLCO. — The port of Acapulco consists of a bay about 1^ miles deep and having an extent from East to West of about 3 miles, in which are soundings of 20 to 10 and 7 fathoms. It is considered to be one of the finest harbours on the west coast of Mexico ; and, for its size, one of the most complete in the world. It affords sheltered and land-locked anchorage in 16 fathoms water, over an extent of about one mile square. The bottom is sandy at its surface, but clayey beneath, and holds well. All round the harbour, on every side are high mountains, which, on the north and east sides, range from 2000 to 2700 feet in height, and on the west side from 300 to H.M.S. Tartar, when standing along this part of the coast on the 4th March, 18G3, grounded on a shoal south-east of the river Dulce, in lat. 16° 11', long. 98" 32' ; the vessel's draught was 18 feet, but the least water obtained was Si fathoms. 94 ACAPULCO. 500 feet. They ufforJ considerable Bhelter to the harbour, and may bo seen at a great distance at sea. Eastward of the port, and just outside the entrance, is a little bay named port Marques, having an extent of about li miles in an easterly direction. The soundings in it are 20 to 5 fathoms, mud, sand and rock, and there is good shelter from all but westerly winds, which blow directly in. Its southern point, named Diamante, has a reef extending from it a short distance ; there is also a small islet or rock on the north side of the bay at about a cable from the shore, and at nearly the head of the bay is a sunken rock ; — these can be easily avoided. Vessels seldom enter port Marques, the bay of Acapulco possessing superior advantages. Westward of the port and also immediately outside the entrance, is an island named Koqueta or Grifo, which extends nearly East and West one mile and is of very irregular shape, but is about a third of a mile across in its broadest part, the middle. Its eastern and western extremities have each a reef extending seaward nearly 1^ cables, parts of which are above water ; in other respects the island is clear of any known sunken danger beyond a moderate offing. At a quarter of a mile from the island, there is a small islet or rock, 50 feet high, named Morro, outside of which is a depth of 20fa- thoms. The passage between Roqueta island and the shore is about two cables wide, in its narrowest part, and has a depth of 16 to 20 fathoms ; it is known as the Boca Chica, while the channel between the east and west points of the harbour is termed the Boca Grande. At a third of a mile almost due east from the Morro islet, is a rock only 4 feet above the water, and having a depth close to it of 10 and 12 fathoms. Its position is a dangerous one to vessels making Acapulco from westward, and rounding Grifo island rather closely. The town of Acapulco is on the west side of the port, and has long been in a, state of decline, owing to the bad custom-house regulations, which cripple the energies of its merchants. Its market is but indifferently supplied ; but fowls, and excellent fruit and vegetables, are readily obtained. Its position, according to the Admiralty chart No. 1944, is lat. 16° 50' 56", long. 99° 52' 15". In the north part of the bay are some rocks named San Loi'enzo, situated at a "short distance from the shore, between which is no safe passage. About half a mile eastward of these is another rocky islet, called Obispo, of a white colour, and about 148 feet high. The depth on the seaward side of these rocks is 7 to 10 fathoms.* Some mountains north-westward of Acapulco bay, named the Paps of Coyuca, are considered to be a good mark by which the situation of the bay may be known. The following remarks are by Captain G. H. Richards, R.N., of H. M.S. Hecate 1863 : — ■ " The port of Acapulco is 90 miles in an E. by S. i S. direction from Mangrove bluff, subsequently mentioned. In approaching it from westward the Paps of Coyuca are a good guide ; they are two distinct conical summits, and the mountain is about • A rock, nearly awash at low tide, was discovered some years ago in the northern part of Acapulco bay by the French ship Serieuse striking upon it. Tlie depth over it was 15 feet (?) and the position assigned to it was, 1000 metres or 1093 yards N. 70° E., true, from fort San Diego, which places it nearly on a supposed line from the fort to Obispo islet. ACAPULCO. 95 4000 feet high ; it lies N.W. by N. nearly 80 miles from Acapulco, and 20 from the coast. The land westward of Acapulco is high. At the distance of 10 or 12 miles from the coast two distinct ranges are seen ; the nearer one about 2500 feet high ; and the more distant one, of which the paps form a portion, over 4000 feet. "When the Paps of Coyiica bear N. by E. ^ E., a red stripe, or land-slip will be seen on the coast right under them. A square table-topped mountain rises just westward of Acapulco, to be- tween 2000 and 3000 feet. When within 8 or 10 miles of the port, Roqueta island is seen, which has a high, yellow, cliffy coast ; as also the point ofthe main land northward, forming the entrance of the Boca Chica. Diamante point, which appears as the eastern extreme of the land, shows as an island at the distance of 7 or 8 miles ; the head of port Marques, of which it forms the south point of entrance, being low. Making Acapulco, from the south-west or south- ward, the entrance is remarkable, from the yellowish clitfs of Diamante point, and lloqueta island which may be seen at a considerable distance. The Paps of Coyuca are also seen, but the eastern peak appears cut off. There is also a white wooden tower on the summit of Roqueta island, which is used for a lighthouse and seen 6 or 7 miles off. The light is only exhibited wh^en the Pacific mail steam company's vessels are expected." Sir Edward Belcher, R.N., says "I cannot persuade myself that the Paps of Coyuca are useful for making the harbour, although in the offing they may be if not obscured. Acapulco may be approached from southward or westward, by keeping the western cone open of the land, which will lead up to the Boca Chica entrance, or until Acapulco port is so close under the lee, that no further marks are necessary. There is not any hidden danger in the entrance to Acapulco. Keep a moderate distance from either shore ; 5 fathoms will be found alongside all the rocks, and 25 to 30 in mid-channel. Round point Grifo (the western point of the harbour) sharply, rather than stand over to San Lorenzo, as the wind, generally westerly, heads on that shore. If working, tack when the rocks on the south point of Town bay show in the gap. The two best berths are off the rocks alluded to; that outside is preferable, but in either case let the outer rock bear W.S.W. or W.N.W., so that a hawser fast to the rock may keep your broadside to land or sea breezes, and prevent a foal anchor. It would naturally be inferred that, as the harbour is surrounded on every side by high mountains, the breeze would scarcely be felt and the heat be intolerable. This is confined to the town limits ; at our, observatory, and at the port, San Carlos, we enjoyed a constant breeze. In all harbours there may be objectionable berths, but in that of Acapulco, if care be taken to keep in the line of what I have designsrted the 'West Gap,' or neck of the peninsula, open of the south point of the town bay, both land and sea breezes will be felt in their full strength, and free from causes which would heat them before entering the port, the neck being but a few feet above the sea-level. Water of good quality was found at several points between the fort and Obispo rock ; but the two best streams are between the fort and San Lorenzo." The following remarks are by Capt. W. H. Parker, P.M.S.S Co. (1871) :— ** Making Acapulco from westward, take your departure from point Tejupan and 9G ACAPULCO. White Hock point, and stoer for Morro Petatlan. Pass this point at a distance of 2- miles, and point Tequepa one mile. Piiiu along the beach 1^ miles off, and verify your position by taking the time when the bluff, 20 miles from the buoy at Acapulco, is abeam, and again by the ridge and peak 18 miles from the buoy. The light if shown will make a little on the port bow. Pass one-third of a mile from Grifo island, and with the starboard helm follow round to the buoy, keeping close to Grifo point. The only outlying danger is the rock lying N.E. by E. ^ E., three-eighths of a mile from the outer edge of Grifo island, in a line with point Guitarron. If very dark steer about E.N.E. (heading about for point Bruja) until point Grifo is abeam — then haul up sharp for this point and you will clear the rock whether you see it or not. You will be pretty sure, however, to see the breakers on it. If there is no light on the buoy, steer midway between the two gaps in the land to the right of the Company's coal-sheds and you will find it. If running for this port from eastward, take a departure from the White rock off port Angeles and shape a course to pass just outside of Tartar shoal ; verify your position, and ascertain the vessel's speed by noting time of passing Morro Hermoso. Having passed the shoal, haul up about W. by N. I N. for Potrero point. The cui'rent frequently sets strongly to the eastward, and you may be set in with the land about the river — 21 miles from the buoy — in this case haul out, and remember that the trend of the coast thence to Petrero point is about N.W. by W. f W. When the light bears N.W. by W. i W. run for it, and you will clear Potrero point. Pass one-third of a mile from Potrero, haul up and pass close to Bruja point, and then run across and pass close to Grifo point, and so to the buoy. These points are readily distinguished in the darkest nights. There is no difficulty in leaving this harbour at any time." M. de Petit-Thouars of the French surveying vessel Vetius, 1838, says " The currents are not felt in the road, bat, outside it they run to the S.E. with a strength varying from a half to 2 miles. This current is more rapid during the ebb. In the fine season, that is to say from December to May, the land and sea breezes are regular enough. They are feeble during the night, coming from N. to N.E. and E. : and from S.W. to W.S.W. and to N.W. in the day. In the other mouths of the year this coast is dangerous, and but little frequented. The usual anchorage is to the south of the fort, and before the town, in 11 to 13 fa-- thoms, muddy bottom ; it is perfectly safe. In case of necessity, anchorage can also be obtained in the Boca Grande." It is high water at Acapulco on the days of full and change of the moon at 3h. Gm. ; the rise of tide is about 1;^ feet. Wc believe that a small light is shown near the south-east end of Grifo island, when the steamers of the Pacific Mail Company are expected. The COAST. — From Acapulco bay the coast trends about 80 miles in a W. by N. J N. direction to point Tequepa, on the eastern side of which is the river Coyuquilla. We have no information of this part of the coast until we get to Morro Petatlan, 20 miles farther to the north-westward, off which are some rocks named the Vihiie Friarsirom SlHtJATANEJO. 97 ilieir Stipposed resemblance to a cross. They have been described bj' Lord Anson, in the following manner : — - "The hill of Petatlan may be at first mistaken for an island, although it is in reality a peninsula, joined to the continent by a low and narrow isthmus, covered with shrubs and small trees. The bay of Sihuatanejo extends from this hill a great distance to the westwardj and has, at its entrance, just off the hill of Petatlan, an assemblage of rocks, white with the dung of boobies and other tropical birds. Four of these rocks are high and large, and, together with several smaller ones, are, by the aid of a little imagina- tion, made to resemble the form of a cross, and hence are called the White Friars." SIHUATANEJO is about 7 miles westward of Petatlan. It is a small but excellent harbour, of about a mile in extent, and open to all winds from south-westward. At its entrance are soundings of 10 fiithoms, decreasing gradually towards the head of the bay, where there are 2^ io 1^ fathoms. It has been suiweyed by Captain Kellett, E.N., who places it in lat. 17° 38' 3", long. 101° 30' 52". Lord Anson has described it in the following terms:— "It is about BO leagues westward of Acapulco, and may fcasily be'/ound by keeping well in with the laud, especially if sailing down the coast from x\capulco. There is a beacb of sand extending 18 leagues from Acapulco to the westward, against which the sea breaks so violently that we found it impossible to land with our boats ; yet the ground is so clean, that; during the fair season, ships may anchor in great safety, at the distance of one or 2 miles from the shore. The land adjacent to this beach is generally low, full of villages, and planted with a great number of trees. On the tops of some small eminences there are several look-out towers, so that, altogether, the face of the country presents a very agreeable aspect; for the cultivated part, which is the part here described, extends some leagues back from the shore, where it seems to be b-ounded by a chain of mountains, which extends a considerable distance on either side of Acapulco. The beach described above is the surest guide to those seeking Sihuatanejo ; for 5 miles westward of the extremity of the beach there is a hummock, which at first makes like an island, and is in shape not much unlike the hill of Petatlan, though much smaller. Three miles westward of this hummock is a white rock near the shore, which cannot easily be passed by unobserved. It is about 2 cables from the shore, and lies ifi a large bay about 9 leagues over, the west point of which is the hill of IP'etatlan. The harbour of Sihuatanejo is easily distinguished by a largo rock, 1^ miles S. i W. from the middle of the entrance. I may add that this coast is no ways to be dreaded between the middle of October and the beginning of May, nor is there any danger from the winds. In the remaining part of the year, there are frequent and violent tornadoes, heavy rains, and severe gales, from all points of the compass. These are the marks by which the harbour may be known by those who keep well in with the land; but there is no mark for those who keep at a considerable distance at feea, who must, consequently, make it by the latitude ; for there are so m.any ranges of mountains rising one upon another inland, that no drawings of the appearance of the coast can be at all depended on, every little change of distance or position bringing new mountains into view, and producing an infinity of difl'ereut prospects, which rende?' all attempts at delineating the appearance of the land impossible. 98 BIHUATANEJO. The entrance of the havhour is but half a mile broad ; the points which form it , and which are faced with rocks almost perpendicular, bear from each other S.E. and N.W. The harbour is surrounded on every side, excepting the western, with high mountains corered with trees. The passage in is very safe, on either side of the rock that lies off the entrance, thmigh we, both in going in and out, left it to the eastward. The ground without the harbour is gi'avcl mixed with stones, but within is soft mud. It is necessary, when coming to an anchor, to make a good allowance for a great swell, which frequently causes a great send of the sea ; as, likewise, for the ebbing and flowing of the tide, which we observed to be about 5 feet, and to set nearly East and West. The wafering-place is at the bead of the bay. Dui-ing our stay it had the appear- ance of a large standing lake, without any visible outlet into the sea, from which it is separated by the strand. The origin of this lake is a spring, which lobbies out of the ground nearly half a mile inland. We found the water a little brackish, but more considerably so towards the sea-side; for the nearer we advanced towards the spring- head, the softei- and freshei* it proved. This kid us under the necessity of filliug our casks from the farthest part of the lake, and occasioned us some trouble ; and would have proved still more difficult, had it not been for our particular management, which, on account of its convenience, deserves to be recommended to all watering at this place- Our method consisted in making use of canoes drawing but little water; for, on loading them with a number of small casks, they easily got up the lake to the spring-head, and the small casks being there filled, were in the same manner trans- ported back to the beach, where were some of the hands to put them into casks of a larger size. Though this lake, dtsring onr visit, appeared to have no outlet to the sea, yet there is reason to suppose that in the rainy season it overflows the strand and communicates with tha sea, for Dampier speaks of it as a large river. Indeed it is necessary that a vast body of water should be amassed before it can rise high enough to overflow the strand, since the neighbouring lands are so low that a great part of them must be covered with water before it can nin out over the beach." The COAST. — From Sihuatanejo harbour the coast trends north-westward and west- ward about 56 miles to a low, well-defined point of land, named Mangrove bluff, situated in lat. 17° 54' 5". long. 102° 12' 41", and forms thereby a large open bay, at the head of which are what are termed in the charts, the Canuta or Salt-pits. Over the east side of Salt-pit bay is a high and very remarkable mountain.* At a short distance from the north-west side of Sihuatanejo harbour, are three white islets or rocks, known as the Blancos islets, of which the easteramost is the largest ; they are square in form and not unlike a haystack in shape; and are very conspicuous from the offing. The depth at nearly 2 miles immediately south of Mangrove bluff is only 14 fathoms, * A little river, the Sncatula, is rc|iresontC(l in an old chart as falling into the sea on the east side of Mangrove bluff, but Captain Richards, R.N., says that if thfre is a stream it must be a very small one, for nothing of the kind could be distinguished from the mast-head at the distance of IJ miles. Mangrove bluff, &d. 91) fell d sliiogle bottom, and this depth continues eastward of the bluff at the same distance from the shore, for about 3 or 4 miles, when it suddenly deepens. At 3 miles west- ward of the bluff, singularly enough there is a depth of 132 fathoms, on mud, at Scarcely 2 miles from the beach. From Mangrove bluff the coast trends W. by N. about 50 miles to a low cliffy headland, named Liiiard point, in about lat. 18° 11', long. 103° 5', and is throughout toearly straight and without any remarkable feature. Some of the mountains close to the sea are llOO feet high, and at 6 miles eastward from the point is one which rises to the height of 1500 to 2000 feet. The soundings at 6 miles westward from the bluff, and 3 miles off shore, are GO to 70 fathoms, mud, which soon decreases to 40 and 85 fathoms, and this latter depth is maintained as far as 8 miles eastward from Lizard point at a corresponding distance from the land, — namely 3 miles. From Lizard point, the coast (which is generally steep and rises abruptly to the height of 2000 feet) trends W. by N. i N., a distance of 27 miles to Tejupan bluff, a low point, with several large rocks or islets off it. Vessels frequently anchor here in the dry seasoil, close inshore and inside of the islets. At 10 miles before reaching the bluff there is a bold projecting point of land, known as White Rock point, from the circumstance that three white rocks lie off it in an E.S.E. direction; inside of these rocks is a fertile looking spot with a village, and probably landing and shelter for boats. At about 11 miles from the sea, and nearly midway between Lizard point and Teju- pan bluff, is the mountain named the Paps of Tejupan. It is 5800 feet high, has a double nipple summit, atid appears conspicuously to a vessel passing up or down the coast, but not so distinctly when viewed directly from seaward, as it is then over- shadowed by the ranges of more lofty mountains behind it. From Tejupan bluff, the coast, composed alternately of sandy beach and high cliff, trends about N.W. to Black head, a distance of 18 miles. The hills rise in successive ranges pamllel with the coast-line ; those near the sea have an estimated height of 1500 to 2000 feet, while those farther inland are much higher* Black head, in lat. 18° 3(3' 18", long. 103° 41' 51", is a cliffy peninsula, connected to the shore by a sandy rieck. A small white rock, 47 feet high, lies half a mile N.W. of the northern extreme of the peninsula, and a bay (where there is anchorage in fine weather in 14 fathoms at 1^ miles from the shore) lies northward of the rock. There is also anchorage in 10 fathoms at about 7 miles south-eastward from the head, at one mile from the shore. The depth at 3 miles off Tejupan bluff is very great, as the bottom was not reached by the Mrv^yors with a line of 172 fathoms, and this deep water was found to exist, at a similar distance from shore, for 26 miles eastward of the bluff or as far as Lizard point. Northward of the bluff, this deep water is succeeded by soundings of 55 to 40 fathoms, decreasing as Black head is approached, off which, at 2 miles due West^ is a depth of 33 fathoms, sand. The mountains in the interior of this part of Mexico are very lofty. That named Colima, 12,000 feet high, the summit of which is estimated to be in lat. 19° 24' 42", long. 103" 33' 1", is very remarkable when seen distinctly ; but the haze, which generally hangs over the distant land, renders this seldom the case, and it therefore! cannot be counted upon as a land-mark. It is a saddle-shaped mountain, having twd u 2 100 MANZANILLA BAY. sharp conical summits, of npparently nearly the same height ; the hili^'ontal measure- ment between them from oQ' Tejnpan bluff is 45 miles. Bftamata, a new Mexican port, about 5 miles north-westward from Tejupan bluff, is situated on the north side of a creek communicating with a large lagoon and the sea. The village consists of the custom-house (a hut made of palm leaves) and four or five Indian huts. Its approximate geogi-aphical position, according to Commanders Main^ waring and Long, R.N., 1875, is lat. 18" 27', long. 10^° 33'. The anchorage is bad, being exposed to all winds from seaward except N.W., and the shelter from that quarter is indifferent; the bottom is loose sand. Coasters anchor in 3^ fathoms about 200 yards fi-om the shore. Food is scarce and water bad. The locality is unhealthy. Communication with the interior is by bridle-paths only ; the nearest town of importance is Colima, 150 miles distant. Brazil-wood is shipped during the fine season occasionally. Gold diggings exist on the river Ostula, about 15 miles northward of Mamata, and silver mines near Cualcoman, a town situated 120 miles in the interior, and con- taining about 1500 inhabitants. From Black head to the Sail rock, off point San Francisco, the eastern point of Manzanilla bay, the distance is about 43 miles in a W.N.W. direction. The coast between is low, being not more than 20 to 2,7 feet high, and is fronted by a sandy beach. »!iAi7ZA!9iz.i.A BAV. — Mauzauilla and Frowning bays (the latter a small bay immediately north-westward of Manzanilla bay, from which it is separated only by a little narrow prelection of coast, named Pelican point) have an extent together of about 5 miles in a north-westerly direction ; from a supposed line connecting the outer points of these bays the coast recedes 3^ miles. The soundings at the entrance are about 40 fathoms, and these decrease gradually to the beach, off which at a moderate dis- tance is a depth of 5 to 8 fathoms. The village of Manzanilla is in the south-east part of the bay, and consists of only a few huts. Behind it is a large lake v.hich, with the marshy land surrounding it, makes the p-ort very unhealthy, especially in the fine- season. In Manzanilla bay there is good shelter from southerly winds but not from those directly from westward. Browning bay is open to southwai'd, and is consequently safe only with off-shore winds. The anchorage in Manzanilla bay is at about a third of 8 mile northward of the houses, in 9 to 10 fathoms, and it is said that the ground holds well. When approaching either of the bays from westward, a good look-out must be maintained for the Sisters, a cluster of rocks above and under water, situated rather iDore than half a mile S.S.E. from Gowllaud point, the west extremity of Browning bay. Manzanilla is the port of Colima, a large city about 90 miles in the interior, which is reported to have 30,000 inhabitants. It has been open to foreign vessels a great many years, but is still far from prosperous. Manzanilla bay was surveyed by Captain G. H. Richards, R.N., in 1RG3, and the west end of the village ascertained to be in lat. 19° 3' 13", long. 104° 17' 41". He observes "The bay may be known by White islet, 2^ miles westward of its western MAN2ANILLA BAY. 101 point of entrance. •!= A high rock lies close off this point ; find another white rock (100 feet high), resemhling a sail, at a quarter of a mile off the eastern point. From the westward they are both remarkable. Approaching Manzaniila from westward, the Vigia Grande, a remarkable C0ne-sha]^)ed hill, will also be seen JHst inside the Sail rock; it is 740 feet high, and rises immediately over the anchorage. As neither the houses ©or shipping can be seen frem seaward, this is a good mark to steer for, passing from 1^ to 2 miles outside the White islet, and the same distance from the west point of entrance, when the Vigia Grande will bear E. J N., and may be steered for. This course will lead more than a mile southward of or outside the Sisters, a group of five rocks, the largest of which is 10 feet high. They lie in a direct line between the west point of entrance and the Vigia Grande, distant from the former 2| miles. A very remarkable table-topped mountain, 2G00 feet high, rises over the western point of the bay, and is an excellent guide for the port. The anchoi"age is immediately tinder the Vigia Grande, about a third ef a mile from the village, in 9 or 10 fathoms water ; over mud, and good holding ground. The bay is safe with all winds except gales from West or S.W., which do not occur between the months of November and June, — the dry season, and singularly enough, the least healthy ; fevers and ague prevail, more or less, at all times, but are more fatal during the dry season. It is not recommended to lie here more than four or five days at a time, and to take an off-shore berth, v/here the sea breeze will reach. Fresh beef and vegetables, as well as other necessaries, -can be obtained here. Fresh water should on no account be received on board ; it is desirable that the crews of vessels should land as seldom as possible, and not be exposed in boats when avoidable." The following remarks on Manzaniila bay are from the work of M. Duflot de Mofras, 1814 : — " Manzaniila or Salagua port is infinitely superior to the open roadsteads of San Bias and Mazatlan. It contains four excellent anchorages, and vessels of considerable draught of water can anchor in it at all times. To find the bay, when at a distance from the land, it is necessary to get into its latitude and then steer in for the coast, having as a landmark the double peak of the volcano of Colima. When near the port, the entrance of which is wide, it will be seen that it is divided into two bays by Pelican j)oint which runs to the southward ; the ea,stern bay is named Manzaniila ; the western. Browning, and it is in this latter that the best watering place is to be found. When the wiad is from southward, it is preferable to anchor in the eastern bay, which may be reached from the entrance by steering in a N.E. ^ E. direction ; the anch-orage is in i)^ to 9 fathoms opposite San Pedrito rock. The icesleni bay may be reaehed by steer- ing N.E. J N., and passing the Frailes rocks, which surround the second point of Juluapan, the anchor should be cast in 5 or 6 fathoms behind the hill, at a short * Known as Piedra Blanea, an islet 390 feet high, and in !at. 19" 6', long. 104° 27' 30", according to the chart of Captain G. H. Eichards, K.N. It is 9 miles westward from tlie anchorage in the bay, and lies about one mile from the shore. It is a quarter of a mile long, appearing wedge-shaped ■when seen from westward, and remaikahly white, being the report of numerous sea birds. This islet is the mark for Manzaniila bay, and may be seen from westward immediately on rounding Navidad head, a distance of nearly 20 miles ; it then appears just inside the extreme of tlie land. It can be seen easily from a vessel's deck at a distance of 15 miles, when beai'ing from E. i S.» round by north to W.N.W. 102 MANZANILLA BAY. distance from the shore.* To attain the anchorage in this bay with a leading wind steer North a little easterly or westerly to avoid Pelican rock oil' Pelicau point, which point it has already been observed is directly opposite the entrance. The tide occurs every 2i hours, the flood in the morning and the ebb in the evening; it rises about 7 feet, and the current runs to the southward. Mauzanilla is at about 20 leagues from the city of Colima, the capital of the territory of that name. The road from the sea is sufficiently good for carts, and the distance might be considerably diminished by means of a short cut which would place the port in communication with the salt lagoon of Cuyutlau, navigable by large flat boats. With the exception of frequent earthquakes (and i/oitres, with which the inhabitants of Colima are affected) there is nothing remarkable in the city ; the population amounts to about 20,000, who are wholly occupied in agriculture and commerce. At 8 leagues from Manzanilla bay in an E.N.E. direction is the volcano oi Colima, the most western of the Mexican volcanoes. Its summit is 11,995 feet high ; it is in activity and emits sulphureous vapours, cinders and stones, but no lava has flowed from it for a long period. The diameter of its crater is 492 feet, and its edge jagged. The sides of the mountain are barren and cliffy. The sulphur on it is of bad quality. At a league northward of the volcano there is an extinct crater, the summit of which is covered with snow ; this is 690 feet higher, and consequently has an elevation of 12,G90 feet. The great height of these mountains renders them visible from a con- siderable distance at sea, hence in clear weather they form an excellent means of recognising the land when approaching Manzanilla. The valley in which Colima is situated is apparently formed of volcanic products and decomposed lava. No minerals are found in it, but only very beautiful specimens of porphyry. The vegetation of the plain consists of palms, aloes, pomegranates and fine orange trees. Upon the higher lands are forests of sombre pines, covering the part of the Sierra Madre which extends almost to Valladolid." The following remarks are by Mr. G. H. E. Horn, of the Hamburg barque Colima y 1800 : — " When making the port of Manzanilla, the white rocky island of Piedra Blanca is an excellent ihark, as it is seen from a considerable distance, standing out in contrast with the darker hue of the coast behind and of the rocks near it. Having sighted this islet, bring it to bear about N. by W., when a lofty peak in the interior will bear N. \ W., you then have Manzanilla, behind point San Francisco, about N. 30° E., on which course steer for the port. Approaching the coast you will observe the heads of several islets and rocks that lie about 1 or 2 cables off shore and around which ig deep water. From off point San Francisco, the bay has a regular decreasing depth from 27 fathoms outside to 5 fathoms within a cable's length of the shore. Give this point a good berth, as ofl' its extremity, at the distance of about 30 yards, there are several rocks, above and under water ; it is also advisable not to carry more sail than necessary to keep steerage way on the vessel, for the harbour of Manzanilla being small you must anchor almost immediately you have passed the point. When at the anchorage * The Sisters rocks appear to be in the way of this course. See the plau of Manzanilla bay in the Admiralty chart No. 510. MANZANILLA BAY, 103 vessels can moor in perfect safety within half a cable of the beach ; — it will be much in your fiivour to bring up as near the shore as possible, as you can then discharge and load with greater rapidity. Making the bay you must not expect to see an inhabited place of importance ; to the westward, in the small harbour of San Antonio,* there is a rancho of eight or nine huts, while to the eastward, in the harbour of Manzanilla, is the town of the same name, containing a few houses and about fifty huts, but these are not visible until you have rounded point San Francisco. The harbour is quite safe in both seasons. The crews of vessels frequently suffer from sickness here, occasioned by exalations fi'om the great swamps near Manzanilla ; added to which there is no good water to be procured in the harbour." Captain W. H. Parker, P. M.S. S. Co (1871) gives the following directions for making Manzanilla: — " In making jManzanilla from the westward it is better to get hold of the *' Frailes." then Navidad head. Cape Graham and White island — passing about one mile from these points. The only out-lying danger is the Sister rock, about half a mile off Gowlland point. If very dark or thick, you can easily make sure of avoid- ing this rock by keeping over towards the starboard shore — run five miles from White island and then haul up, bringing the Sugar Loaf (Vigia Chieo) on your starboard bow ; as you pass this close to, the lights of the town will open. Should there be no light on the buoy, it may be found by steering (about E, by S, i S.) directly for a high peak with which the buoy is in line. Bound into Manzaailla from the eastward pass point Tejupan at a di<;tance of two miles, and verify your position by taking the time when Black head is abeam. You have then but 42 miles to run to Manzanilla point, and there is nothing to excuse your running by the harbour. Manzanilla point is a bluff headland, and you will be sure to see it if you keep close enuiKjli to the shore. Sail rock will make out to the left of the point, unless you are set off, in which case it will be on with the point and cannot be seen. Pass one-third of a mile from the rock and point, and follow the land round with a port-helm to the buoy. It is all a bold shore." The COAST. — From Manzanilla bay the coast trends W. by X. about 20 miles to cape Graham, the south point of Navidad bay, situated in lat. 19° 10' 30", long. 10±° 40' 30". Throughout nearly the whole of this distance (for 18 miles eastward of the cape) it consists of a low shore, not more than 15 or 20 feet high, fronted by a sandy beach, and having behind it a lagoon. In the interior the land rises in distinct ranges to between 3000 and 4000 feet. On this sandy beach boats may generally land during fine weather, and there is safe anchorage in 18 fathoms at half a mile from the shore. Cajpe Graham is about 700 feet high and has a high peaked rock close to it, as well as a smaller one, which, however, do not readily appear as detachedfrom the land from any position that a vessel would be in. There is also a small rock (12 feet above low water and always visible, being a few feet above the surface at high tide) at about half • We suppose that this is Biowniug bay of Captaiu Kichards' charL 104 NAYIDAD BAY. a mile S.W. from tao cape; on acconut of tljis rock, some care is requireil when approaching Navidiul bay from south-eastwanl. 7YAVXDAS BAY is formed by cape Graham and a very Avhite projecting point of land named Harbour point, 2| miles N.N.W. from it. It has soundings shoaling from 25 fathoms at the entrance to G and 5 fathoms at a short distance from the beach, or Band. The anchorage is in the north part of the bay, in 6 to 7 fathoms, under Harbour point, whicli protec'.s it from south-west winds. At nearly 6 miles westward from tbo ■anchorage is a bold headland, named Navidad head, which is a conspicuous point of land especially when viewed from north-westward. Navidad head and bay are thus described by Captain G.H. Richards, R.N. ; — " Navidad head is awedged-shaped summit, about 400 feet high, falling in shore to a low neck, and is remarkable when seen from any direction. On approachihg it within 8 or 4 miles, it is seen to be an island, separated from the main by a low rocky ledge, which the water rises over. Off the head are three remarkable rocks, extending in a south-west direction ; the centre one being white with a smooth round top, covered with vegetation, and about 70 feet high. These rocks give the head some slight resemblance to Farralone point, with the Frailes rocks (9 miles westward from it) when seen from the north-westward ; but the peculiar shape of the wedge island would prevent the possibility of a mistake after the first glance. The "White rock of Navidad has been mistaken for the White islet of Manzauilla by strangers, and accidents have occurred in consequence, but this mistake could only have arisen in the absence of any chart. The Navidad rock is small, the centre of three, and stands off a prominent headland. The White islet of Manzanilla, 20 miles to the south- eastward, is very much larger, remarkably white, and stands alone, a mile from the shore, but, being rather in a bight, cannot be seen projecting from any position a vessel would be in. Besides the three high rooks off Navidad head, there is a sunken one, which occasionally breaks, and lies S.E. | E. from White rock, distant a short mile. After rounding Navidad head from the northv.ard, at the distanoe of 2 miles, the white sandy beach of Navidad bay will be seen, bearing E. by N., distant 7 miles. At 2 miles southward from the White rock of Navidad there are GO fathoms water, and steering thence for the anchorage it gradually shoals to 40 and 30 fathoms. The north beach of Navidad bay is in lat. 19° 13', long. 104° 41' 25". As the bay is approached. Harbour point, a very remarkable high white point, will be seen on the northern shore. Immediately round and inside this is tlie anchorage, a very fair stopping place during the fine season, but it is not recommended for a sailing vessel at other times, as there is a difSculty in getting out with a S,W, wind ;— the best berth is in 7 fathoms water, sandy bottom, with Harbour point bearing S.S.W. a quarter of a mile, and the same distance from the eastern shore of the bay, — sailing vessels may anchor farther out, with the point bearing West, in 10 or 11 fathoms, but there will be more swell, A single house stands in the north hook of the bay, and a lagoon within a few yards of the beach, where the water is fresh, and the natives say good, but it is not recommended to use it unless a vessel is in distress. At the south-east end of the bay is the north-west end of a long lagoon which here opens into the sea ; a strong stream rujis out of it, and there is sufficient depth for boats at half tid^. There is a pmall TENACATITA AND PERULA BAYS. 103 village here, auJ some supplies of fresh provisions may be obtained. The auchorage off this eud of the ba}' is not recomuieuded." TEKACATiTA BAY. — From Navidad head the coast turns sharply northward for about 4 miles, and then trends westerly about 5 miles to Brothers point, the coast between these headlands forming a large bay named Tenacatita. The direct bearing and distance of Brothers point from Navidad head are N.W. by W. ^ W. 5 miles. Brothers point has a rather remarkable double hill immediately over it, which from north v,'ard appears like an island ; otl' the point is a high, square, perpendicular rock, and there arc also some smaller ones about it above water, and others farther out which from their position are dangerous. The most dangerous of the known rocks are the Porpoise, 7 feet above water, lying li miles W. by S. from the point ; and another, upon which the sea breaks, S.E. by S. 3^ cables from the point. On account of these rocks. Brothers point should have a berth of 2 miles. Tenacatita bay is about 2^ miles deep, and is said to contain one or two rocks in its north-west part. It has not been minutely examined, and should consequently be entered with caution. It is asserted that there is good auchorage in its north-west corner, where protection may be obtained from winds from north-westward. Sheltered anchorage may be found off the village, on the east side of the bay, during the wet season, and in West bay during the dry season. Tamarinda bay, on the east side, also affords a secure anchorage, but there is more swell than off the village. Tenacatita bay is considered preferable to Manzanilla as an anchorage, and is said to be more healthy. It is easy of access, and appears free from hidden dangers, with the exception of the rocks off Brothers point. The soundings are regular and the rocks appear steep-to. After passing the line joining Brothers point and Tenacatita head, do not approach the west shore within half a mile nor the eastern shore within a quarter of a mile. If bound to West bay, pass eastward and northward of Bird islet, which is 10 feet high and has 3 fathoms water close-to. A good berth off Tenacatita village is in 10 fathoms, with the village open north- ward of the outer rock off Breakv^ater point and Flat rock (3 feet high, and having 3 fathoms close-to) showing a little inside Tenacatita head. From the berth recommended the water shoals regularly towai"d the shore, and a vessel loading may, if desired, anchor closer in 7 fathoms. Water may be procured either near the village or in Tamarinda bay. Fire-wood is abundant. Cattle abound in the vicinity of the bay. Coquita nut shells are abundant.* PERtJiiA BAY. — From Brothers point the coast trends about 18 miles in a north- westerly direction to Flat Top point, the south extremity of Perula bay, which may be easily recognised by the remarkable flat-topped mountain, 1100 feet high, which rises over it and is conspicuous from northv/ard and westward. When running along this shore, the Frailes, situated about 5 miles from Brothers point, will present them- selves to view as two needle-shaped rocks from 80 to 100 feet high ; and at about 7 miles from these is a low projecting point named Farralone. Perula bay is formed by Flat Top point and a projection of the coast nearly 7 miles * The above information respecting Teiiacatita bay is mainly derived from a report by Com. S. Long, H.M.S, Fantome, 1875, lOG PERULA BAY. north-westward from it, named Rivas. In its north-west corner there is excellent anchorage iuSto 9 fathoms, saud, hut unfortunately it is directly open to southerly winds, which frequently send in a very heavy sea. According to Captain G. H. Richards R.N., whose description of the hay we subjoin, the position of Rivas point is lat. 19" S-k' 31", long. 105° C 33". " Perula bay, a spacious and convenient anchorage, is easily recognised from any direction by two islands, which lie in the centre of it ; the northernmost of which, Passarera, 130 feet high, is remarkable from its perpendicular white cliffs which are seen from a long distance. Colorada, the southern island, is rather lower, and has a slightly reddish appearance. The best anchorage is in the northern part of the bay. The entrance is between Rivas point and Passai'era island, and is a mile in breadth ; the depth of water from 15 to 18 fathoms. Rivas point is bold and cliffy, with some detached rocks Ik cables off it, the outer one of which is 30 feet high. From this rock a reef, 2 feet above high water, and on which the sea always breaks, lies East, distant 1^ cables, with deep water close to it. There is anchorage anywhere within a line between Rivas point and Passarera island, in from 10 to 14 fathoms water, but the most sheltered is with the high rock off Rivas point bearing S.W. by S., distant about half a mile, or midway between it and the sandy beach on the eastern side of the bay, where there are 4 and 5 fathoms at 1|^ cables from the beach. Small vessels may anchor in the northern bight of the bay, and be more out of the swell. At the south-east end of the bay, nearly 4 miles from Rivas point, is the village of Chamela. Vessels wishing to anchor near it should enter between Colorada island and the small islands to the south-east of it ; this channel is two-thirds of a mile wide, and free from danger. Large vessels may anchor in 8 fathoms, with the south point of Colorada island bearing S.W. by W., and the village of Chamela just open of San Pedro island, midway between the island and the shore of the bay. Small vessels may anchor in 4 fathoms inside Cocina island, where they will be two-thirds of a mile from the village ; inside this it shoals rapidly, and off the village there is only one fathom water. From Passarera island a bar extends to the opposite sandy point of the bay, distant two-thirds of a mile ; the least depth of water on it is 3 fathoms, so that vessels of greater draught cannot pass from the northern anchorage to the southern part of the bay, but must go outside the islands. The bottom is sandy, but good holding ground. During the fine season, from November till June, the sea breeze from N.W. is regular daring the day, and the land wind at night, and the anchorage is perfectly safe ; but with S.W. or S.E. winds a heavy swell sets into every part of the bay. Supplies of fresh beef, pumpkins, and water-melons may be had at the village, by giving a day's notice ; there is also good water from a stream close to it. Dye-wood is exported, but of an inferior quality." The COAST. — From Rivas point the coast trends N.W. f N. about 60 miles to cape Corrientes, and the land throughout is lofty, rising into peaks of 500 to 1100 feet elevation. When sailing down this coast from north-westward, it will be observed that a sandy beach commences immediately southward of the cape. Soundings of 45 to 55 fathoms may be obtained at 3 miles from the land, when 4 miles southward of the cape, and whenever a sandy beach line is met with, a depth of 19 or 20 fathoms water will CAPE CORRIENTES. 107 generally be found within a mile of it, where vessels may anchor if necessary. This coast is not considered safe between June and the end of November, during which time S.E. and S.W. gales are prevalent, bringing iu a heavy sea. Between 5 or G miles southward of cape Corrientes is a rather dangerous reef, known as Cucharitas. That part of it above water projects from the land westward about li miles, and consists of three or four small rocks, against which the sea breaks heavily. Two sunken rocks are stated to exist about half a milu outside these ; hence the coast hereabout should not be closely approached. The land is somewhat low about Cucharitas, but rises at a short distance from the beach. CAPS CORRISNTES is a bold and lofty headland, with rather a flat summit, which rises to the height of between '2000 and 3000 feet ; hence it is visible from a gieat distance at sea. Its extreme point is estimated to be in lat. 20° 25', long. 105° 39'. From northward and westward it does not present a remarkable appearance, but from southward it is bold and projecting. There are no known sunken dangers off it, and the sea is very deep in its immediate vicinity, as the surveyors when 4 miles westward from it failed iu touching the bottom, although sounding 106 fathoms. CAPE CORRIENTES TO MAZATLAN. Magnetic Vanatlon in 1879 :—At Banderas Bay 9° 10' E.; San Bias 9° 20' E.; Tres Marias Islands 9° 25' E. ; Mazatlan 9° 40' E. The annual increase is estimated to he 2 or 3 minutes. BANDERAS BAY. — At cape Corrientes the coast trends N.E. by E. ^ E. 28 miles, then northerly about 8 miles, and afterwards almost West to a narrrow projecting point of land, known as point Mita ; the bearing and distance from the cape to the point being N. by E. :^ E. 24 miles. The space included within these limits is the bay of Banderas, which may be considered to have an extent of about 20 miles from West to East, and to be 17 to 9 miles broad. The southern coast of the bay as far as the river Real at its head, a distance of 28 miles, is high and precipitous, with occasional valleys, through which small fresh-water streams descend to the sea. From this river to point Piedra Blanca, about 11 miles to the northward and westward, the shore is low, sandy and covered with bushes; it then rises into broken bluffs 10 to 20 feet high, with occasional sand-beaches, which continue as far as point Mita. The bay in nearly every part is exposed to the full force of westerly winds, the only places of shelter being in Corralies harbour, and off its northern shore under point Piedra Blanca. At a very short distance from its southern coast there is no bottom at 50 fathoms, but a bank extends from its northern shore a considerable distance, the depth being 22 fathoms at about 3 miles south-westward from point Piedra Blanca. It is believed to be clear of any sunken rocks except the reefs off point Iglesia, mentioned subsequently. Corralies. — At about 3 miles eastward from cape Corrientes is the little harbour of 103 YLAPO AND PENAS. Corralies, iu which vessels cau anchor and obtain shelter from all winds except those from nortli-westwai'd; but as only fine breezes ever come from that quarter, its pro- tection may be considered complete. The entrance is free from danger beyond a few yards from the shore, and there is deep water almost close to the rocks or coast ; tho harbour also so singularly resembles a basin or slip in its perfect smoothness and safety, that a large ship could anchor near the land and get out fasts, thus lying iu perfect security. The laud rises abruptly around it, particularly to the southward and westward. There were no inhabitants in 1869, and it was believed to be destitute of fresh water. The country in its vicinity is heavily timbered. The depth iu the middle of the basin or inner harbour is about 30 fathoms, and within an oar's length of the beach k fothoms; near the rocks within the same distance, it is 7 fathoms, sandy bottom. The water is wonderfully clear, consequently any sunken rocks cau be readily seen. The only disadvantages of the bay are, it is small and very deep.* Point Iglesia, about 4 miles N.E. ^ E. from cape Corrieutes, may be easily recog- nised by a castellated rock which stands out from the laud nearly a mile, and viewed from westward appears like an irregular cube. Outside this rock, perhaps a mile, are two reefs 9 feet under water, over which the sea breaks occasionally. On account of these reefs it is advisable to give this part of the coast a berth of at least 2^ miles. Yiapo. — From point Iglesia the coast treuds li miles N.E. | E. to point Chimo, then E.N.E. f E. 4f miles to point Teiomala, and afterwards E. ^ N. 31 miles to Ylapo harbour, at the mouth of a small river of the same name, which is only a break in the rocky shore extending into the laud about half a mile. From seaward the hai'- bour appears broader than that of Corralies, and its depth of water is probably not so considerable. It is stated to be free from sunken dangers, and to afford good shelter from S.W. gales. Vessels anchor in 15 to 20 fathoms, aud obtain supplies of water from the river. From Ylapo harbour the coast trends E.N.E. | E. 3^ miles to Quemisto, a bight with a sandy beach in which partial shelter from south-westerly winds cau be obtaii el. Here are, or wei*e (1869), numerous large houses or barracks which are used as quarters for the men employed to load ships with log-wood. From Quemisto to the Boca de Tomatlau the distance is about 3 miles E. ^ S. This harbour is very small, being merely a dock or slip iu the rocks at the luouth of the little river Tomatlan. It is of more limited extent thau Corralies harbour, and quite as deep ; it will consequently accommodate ouly very small vessels. About 2 miles eastward of the Boca de Tomatlau are three rocks near the shore, named Arcos, the largest of which is 210 feet high. The others are 20 and 30 feet high respectively. Fenas. — Four or five miles northward from the Arcos rocks is the mouth of the river Real, where is the village of Peuas, which is frequented for dye-wood. Here • Commander George Dewey, U.S. Navy, dots not report so favourably of Corralies liarbour. He Bays " it is impossible to anchor there. A sunken roc-k, on which the sea breaks iu rough weather, lies off the harbour about ^ cables from the shore." Probably this is one of the reufa off point Iglesia. TRES MARIETAS, &c. 100 vessels anctor daring favourable weather close to the beach. Excelleut fresh water can be obtained from the river. From Penas the coast trends 4 miles noi-thward and north-westward to the Boca de Tomates, the outlet of a lake which receives the river Valle or Piginto ; and, then, north-westward 7 miles to point Piedra Blauca, under which vessels occasionally anchor in 4 to 10 fathoms during north-westerly winds. From this anchorage to point Mit» the distance is about 8 miles. peint Mita. — Point Mita, a low, narrow, projecting point, is dangerous in con- sequence of the numerous outlying rochs and reefs in its proximity, one of which (under water) lies half a mile southward from it, and occasianally shows its presence by breakers. About a mile inland from the point is a prominent hill, 590 feet high. Vessels frequently anchor in about 7 fathoms on the south-east side of the point, afc about Ih miles from its extremity, and obtain shelter from north-westerly winds; it is- considered to be an excellent anchorage, Tres ESarietas. — About three miles S. by W. i W. from point Mita, and separated from it by a clear navigable channel 8 to 24 fathoms deep, through which vessels may safely pass by keeping nearer the islands than the coast, are the two largest Mariets islands, neither of which is so much as half a mile in extent. The eastern of these is 179 feet high; the western 182 feet. The third islet, a white rock 40 feet high, is distant 7 miles S.W. by S. from the point. A small rock, only 15 feet high, lies half a mile westward of the last-mentioned islet. In the channel between the second Marieta islet and the third islet, the outermost, there is a very dangerous rock, only one foot above the surface at high water, which must be specially guarded against. It lies in nearly midway, being rather nearer the second islet than the third. corventena icock. — The Corvcntena, believed to be the outermost of the rocks ta seaward of Banderas bay, is distant 17 miles W. by S. i S. from point Mita, and 21 miles N.N.W. J W. from cape Corrientes ; it is 3 cables in extent, east and west, of whitish appearance and only 25 feet high. Its geographical position is lat. 20° 44' 10", long. 105° 47' 30". From its western side a reef extends a short distance.* The COAST.— From point Mitathe coast trends N.N.E. iE.22 miles to point Raza,, and is bold, with occasional sand beaches. Off it at a moderate distance is a depth of 9 to 22 fathoms, the latter being about a mile from the land. Between points Mita and Raza, and 9 miles distant from the latter, is Monterey point, off which is a sunken rock. The coast range of hills, rising 300 to 1000 feet, borders on the sea throughout • Much to our surprise, in the afternoon we approached a small black (?white) rugged rock, or,- more properly speaking, a closely connected cluster of small rocks. The space they occupy does not appear to exceed the dimensions of a large ship's hull, nor are they much higher. They are at a great distance from any land, and, so far as we could perceive in passing them,— at the distance of about half a league,— the water near them appeared to be deep in every direction. We could not gain soundings close round them with the hand-line, nor did this small rocky group seem to be supported by any bed of rock or shallow bank. The shores of the main land, eastward of them, at the distance of about 8 leagues, appeared to be broken, and about 10 miles within them are twa small islets. These rocks, according to our observations, lie from the southernmost of the Marias, S. 36° E. {true), at the distance of 12 or 13 leagues. Vcnrouver. 110 SAN BLAS. the whole distance; behind it are lofty mountains, of which the Cerro Yallogo has all altitude of 503G feet. Point llaza, a reddish-coloured point about 30 feet high, is the south-western boundary of Jaltemba bay, an open roadstead in which vessels sometimes anchor with south-easterly winds. At about 2.V miles eastward of point Raza, and a mile from the shore, there is a small islet 80 feet high, between which and the beach vessels anchor and loud dye- wood. Ten miles N. by E. } E. from point Raza is the little ba^ of Chacola, in which small vessels occasionally anchor; and, 11 miles N. by W. from this is point Custodios, where a river falls into the sea. From point Custodies the coast trends N.N. E. 7 miles, and for the greater part consists of bold cliffs 75 to 100 feet high ; it then sweeps round in a curve to the N.W. by W. i W. to point Camaron, the eastern point of the Estero San Christoval. The bay thus formed is known as that of San Bias. It is an open bay, exposed throughout its whole extent to westerly and southwesterly winds, and we believe con- tains no safe anchorage. The mountains immediately behind it rise to the height of 1000 and 1500 feet, and 10 miles in the interior, in the direction of N.E. by E. i- E. from point Custodios, is the saddle mountain of San Juan, which is 7550 feet high. When viewed on the bearing of E. by S. the two peaks of this mountain are strikingly conspicuous. Port San Bias is within the entrance of the Estero de Arsenal. SAN BZ.AS. — The town of San Bias is on the summit of a rather steep hill about 450 feet in height ; it is now of little commercial importance, the increasing trade of the neighbouring port of Mazatlan having caused the principal merchants to remove thither.* Eastward and westward of the town is a stream ; that westward of it, known as the Estero del Arsenal, is fronted by a bar of 7 to 8 feet waterf, immediately within which is a depth of 12 to 18 feet and it is here that small vessels occasionally anchor; — that eastward of it, the San Christoval, is almost dry at low water. The west point of the Estero del Arsenal has a reef extending from it along the coast in a north-westerly direction nearly three-quarters of a mile, parts of which are above water. As the depth close to this reef is 12 to 18 feet, rapidly deepening seaward to 4^ fathoms, care is necessary to avoid it when approaching the port from north-westward. Pledrus Islets.— At nearly a mile S.W. from the port of San Bias is a rock or islet 55 feet high, known as the Piedra Blanca de Tierra, near to which are two smaller rocks, the whole lying in a N.E. and S.W. direction and surrounded by shoal water, immediately outside which is a depth of 5 fathoms. And, about 11 miles W. J N. from the Piedra Blanca de Tierra is the Piedra Blanca del Mar, a small white rock 145 feet high and 420 feet long, in the immediate vicinity of 'which is a depth of 9 to 12 fathoms. These rocky islets are excellent marks for the port of San Bias. The last mentioned • In 1865 tl'e town of San Bias was in ruins and tbe population had almost disappeared. t The depth on the bar at the entrance to the Estero del Arsenal at low water is 12 feet, and 16 or 17 feet at high water. Vessels must moor head and stern in the Estero, the channel bsing very narrow ; once inside, ships are sheltered from every wind. Commander George Dewey, U.S. Navy, SAN BLAS. Ill islet is in lat. '2V 3-l'45", long. 105° 27'; from it mouut San Juan is distant 30 miles in the direction of E, ^ S., and the mouth of the river Santiago 5 miles E. by N. ^ N. Directions. — In making the port of San Bias, the saddle-peaked mountain of San Juan (7550 feet high), 18 miles E. by S. from the town, is an excellent mark. It should also be borne in mind that the land to the southward of the port is high, while to the northward it is low. Vessels approaching San Bias from soutJucard should keep westward of Corventena rock, although the wide channel between it and the Marietas may probably be safely traversed, as it is believed to be free from sunken dangers beyond what are represented on the chart. Approaching from nortli-aeattvard, they should pass the Piedra Blauca del Mar on the south side, and steer thence for the Piedra Blauca de Tierra, pass it also on its south side, and thence steer for the anchorage, where a birth may be selected at convenience. The reason for the recommendation to go southward of the islets is that a shoal extends about 3 miles from the coast in the vicinity of the Santiago river, on parts of which is a depth of less than 3 fathoms. Aiichonvje. — The usual anchorage at San Bias is in 4^ ftithoms, sand, at nearly half a mile eastward of the Piedra de Tierra, or farther out in 5| fathoms at about the same distance south-eastward from that rock. If the former anchorage be prefen-ed, a good spot is at half a mile S. ^ W. from the low rocky point of the harbour, with the two Piedras in one. The roadstead is very much exposed to winds from S.S.W. to N.N.W., hence ships should always be prepared for sea, unless it be in the mouths in which northerly winds are settled. In the event of the wind veering to westward, and a gale from that quarter being apprehended, no time should be lost in slipping and endeavour- ing to get an offing, as a vessel at anchor is deeply embayed, and the holding-ground is very bad. In case of necessity, a vessel may cast to westward, and stand between Piedi"a de Tierra and the Fort bluff, in order to make a tack westward of the rock ; after which, it will not be necessary again to get northward of a line connecting the two Piedras. The anchorage should not be frequented between the months of May and December, because, during that period, the coast is visited by storms fi'om southward and west- ward, attended by heavy rains, and thunder and lightning. It is, besides, the sickly season, and the inhabitants having all migrated to Topic, no business whatever is transacted at the port. Supplies of fresh beef, vegetables, wood, and water may sometimes be obtained here. The latter, of excellent quality, is found in the Eusenada Matenchen, 1\ miles eastward of San Bias. (1874). Tides. — It is high water at San Bias on the days of full and change of the moon at 9h. 45m. Spring tides rise about Q\ feet. The following notes, made on a passage to San Bias, are by Lieut. Sherard Osborn, R.N., 1846 :— " Supposing a vessel, bound to the western coast of Mexico, safely round Cape Horn, and I'ounding before the southerly gale which almost constantly blows along the shores of South America, she ought to shape a course so as to cross the Equator in about 98° or 99° W. long., so that when she gets the Nurih-east Trade she will be at least 112 SAN* BLAS. (>" or 7° eastward of lior port, — Sau Bias or Mazatlan ; anfl liavo at tlic same time A Buflicient offing from the Galapagos islands to avoid their currents and variable winds. We crossed in 105" long., having been recommended to do so by sf)me old merchants nt Valparaiso, and were consequently, although a remarkably fast-sailing ship, a lamentably long time making the distance. Our track led us to be exactly in the same longitude as our port, when we got the Trade, and it hanging well to the northward, we were consequently increasing our distance, until in the latitude of San Bias, when an in shore tack, of course, shortened it. But, by the course I have recommended, the first of the North-east Trade will drive the vessel into the meridian of her port, and she will tlus daily increase her distance^ Care must be taken when standing in for the land not to go to leaward of San Blas^ Rs there is a strong southerly current along the coast, especially off cape Corrientes.-^ If possible keep San Bias on an E.N. E. bearing. The Mirias islands, off the port of San Bias, are convenient points for making ; and here a master could leave his vessel in perfect safety to w-ater, while he coaiumnicated with. his consignees, or got his over- land letters from his owners at home. There is a safe mid-channel course between the middle and southei'n islands ; — we brought a saddle-shaped hill on the main a little south of San Bias, one point open of the south island, and steered by compass N.E. by E. The two Piedras are excellent marks for the roadstead, which, by Beechey, is in lat. 21° 32' 20', long. 105° 15' 15". A good anchorage for vessels awaiting orders (for which purpose San Bias is now almost alone visited, except by English men-of-war, and Yankee clippers), will be found with Piedra del Mar, N. 70" W. ; Piedra de Tierra^ N. 43° W. ; and the village in the Estero, N. 26° W. Since the days of Hall and Beechey, the town of San Bias has very rnuch changed. Its population of 20,000 has dwindled to 3000 residents, and their unwholesome appearance fully r,cconnts for the decrease of residents ; and nearly all its trade has been transferred to its rival — Mazatlan. The large town of Tepic, in the interior, with a small factory, owned by an English merchant, causes a small demand for European luxuries, and a cargo or two of cotton ; which petty trade is carried on during six healthy months in the year. A great deal of smuggling is carried on from the neighbourhood of this port, the extensive bay, to the southward affording great facilities to the men-of-war's boats in that employment. The town is built on the landward slope of a steep hill, which is almost perpendicular to seaward, and has its crest crowned by the ruins of a custom-house ; but as this is about three-quarters of a mile from the beach a large assemblage of huts has been formed at the landing-place, in the Estero del Arsenal, for the convenience of supply- ing the shipping ; the occupants being, for the most part, grog-venders, fiohernien, and an agent to the harbour master. • In reference to tbe cnrrents in the neighbourhood of cape Ccrrieutes, Commander W. H. Parker, P.M.S.S. Co. (1371) says : — " I must cnution you against one of the most marked currents on the coast; the current running from cape Graham (the east point of Navidad bay) along the coast, towards cape Corrientep, generally about N.W., but sometimes setting North, with considerable velocity into Navidad, Teiiacatitft and Perula bays." This statement would lead one to expect a northerly current in the vicinity of cape Corrientes. SAN BLAS. lis In the Estero del Arseual, small craft, of less than 10 feet draught, will find con- venient anchorage, means of heaving down, &c. The watering-place is, at least, 3 miles from the above anchorage ; and to assist the boats in this heavy work, it is always advisable to shift the vessel into such a position that they may make a fair wind off auci on whilst the daily sea-breeze blows. The watering-place is at the northern extremity of a large open bay, south of San Bias ; the beach is shoal, and the casks have to be rolled 300 or 400 yards through the jungle to a stream of water. This stream, during the spring tides, is occasionally brackish ; but we succeeded in obtaining supplies, by immersing the empty cask with the bung in such a position that only the fresh water (which, of course, would be on the surface) could enter. By rigging triangles with spars in such a position that the boats could go under them to load, we succeeded in embarking daily B2 tons of water. Many useful and ornamental woods are to be procured on shore, for the mere trouble of cutting, especially lignum vitae. Fresh beef we found good in quality. Game moderately plentiful; oysters good and plentiful; vegetables scarce and expensive. The climate may be summed up by the word ' execrable.' On November 1st, the dry season commences; the temperature rises steadily, and the land yields all its moisture, until, by the month of May, th; heat of the atmosphere resembles that of an oven, and the air swarms with musquitoes and. sandflies. The sky is cloudless, the land and sea-breeze regular, but not refreshing. Early in June, heavy banks of dark lowering clouds, charged with electricity, collect on the high lands in the interior, lowering masses of clouds hang to seaward. The change is fast approaching, and before the IGth of June the rains commence and deluge the land, accompanied by heavy squalls and a tumbling swell from seaward. All vessels now have the coast unless able to take shelter in the estero; though of late, men-of-war, in eager search for freight, have held on, and found that the gales do not, in the winter, 'blow home.' At this season all the inhabitants, whose means afford it, quit the coast for the interior. For the first mouth, or six w-eeks, the parched land absorbs the rain; but, by the middle of August, it becomes moist and swampy ; — the haunts of alligatoi'S and aquatic birds. In September the action of the sun on water- soddened land generates fever of tlie most violent nature, and it behoves these who arrive early in the dry season to be caiefal of exposure to the malaria." The following notes on San Bias are from the work of M. Duflot de Mofras, 1844: — The roadstead of San Bias is open and exposed. The anchorpge is safe in the dry season and less dangerous during the rainy mouths than that of Mazatlan. The extent and configuration of the roadstead renders an approach to it easy, and when leaving it the prevailing current often affords considerable assistance. It is recommended to avoid remaining in it during the season of the conJoiiazos. The harbour has the great advantage of being a little bay, called el pozo, which is closed in and sheltei-ed from the sea by a natural jetty of rocks. In this harbour there is considerable accommoda- tion for careening ; it is however to be regretted that there is not room for more than five or six vessels, which should not be of a greater draught than 10 feet or they will be unable to cross the bar. I 114 BAN BLAS. It is very easy to make San Bias, so many laudmarks serve as guides. After having doubled tlic ^Marias islands, which are about GO miles to seaward of the port, a course may be steered for the land, and mount San Juan will be seen to the eastward. This mountain is about 7550 feet high and situated in about lat. 21" 2(5' ; behind it is the town of Tepic. When steering for the mountain, the Piedra del ^lar or Afuera cannot fail to he recognised as it is an enormous white rock about 150 feet high, and soon after passing it at a short distance on its south side, another white rock will come into view, named Piedra de Tierra or Adentro ; this latter is the smaller rock, and exactly marks the anchorage. It is eastward of the Piedra de Tierra where the anchor should be cast, in about 8^ (?) fixthoms. The anchorage may be run for either during day or night. The two Piedras are nearly East and West from each other, distant about 11 miles. All the coast of the bay is quite clear from reefs and the soundings are regular. While under sail it is necessary to take notice of the direction of the current, which runs southward, some- times with considerable strength. San Bias is ver}' unhealthy, especially during the rainy season when malignant fevers prevail. There are clouds of mosquitoes and gnats whose stings often cause painful ei'uptions, ophthalmic complaints, and serious inflamatory disorders; — hence shipmasters should not permit the s'ailors to sleep on deck, on shore, or in any place where they will be exposed to these disagreeable pests. Merchandise discharged at San Bias supplies the district of Colima. Some goods are sent to Mazatlan, Durango, San Luis Potosi, and to Zacatecas. The vessels usually return in ballast, but occasionally go either to Mazatlan or Banderas bay for brazil-wood. If they arrive at San Bias in July, August or September, or even later in the year, the cargoes are moi*e easily disposed of than in the earlier months, as they are then forwarded to the fair of San Juan de los Lagos and are privileged with a dis- count of 53 per cent upon the charges of entry. San Juan de los Lagos is situated upon the road from Mexico to Guadalajara, at 40 leagues from the latter city; it is a small place, but its fair is very important, as it continues B days and receives goods not only from Mexican territory bitt also from Guatemala. Seosons, Winds, dr. — The year is divided into the dry and rainy seasons, the changes into which take place generally and at variable periods. During the dry season the weather is constantly fine. The winds prevail regularly during the day from N.W. to West, following the direction of the coast and are replaced at night by a light breeze from the land or by a calm. The rainy season, which commences in June, is at first indicated by calms and slight showers; as the season advances the showers become heavier and more frequent, and instead of prevailing only at niglil they commence in the afternoon and terminate in very violent tempests accompanied by thunder and lightning and violent winds from all quarters of the horizon. This weather continues till the end of September and it fre- quently occurs thirt the season is tenniuated by a violent hurricane, which usually takes place from the 1st to the 5th of October, the period of the fete of Saint Francis. These storms, which alwa}'S prevail from S.E. to S.W., are of short duration; but their violence is so great, and the sea which accompanies them so high, that nothing can ilAKIA ISLANDS. 115 resist their influence ; — hence they are known in the country by the term cordonazos de Snn Francisco de Asis.-r- When ove)-tulvpearanco of a white cliff. Near its southern extremity it rises to a conical peak, 484 feet in height. Bluff point, its southern extreme, is, according to Captain Beechey, B.N., in lat. 23° 11' 40", long. 10G° 28'. In the rocky channel * Shipmfisters ^Jouud to the port should be provided with the Admiralty chait by Captain Beechey, II. N., (No. 187(j), and to this chart we must refer our readers, as a written description will not convey so good an idea of the port as an inspection of the chart. Face, page 118. I D) Lej at U 12 10 12 iSiUa.P.'-openW. of } L clears Blossoi,n h. ■^^^^^i^^^^^z ^^k^\ N_^ ^ Io%lQe°25'6'-'5W. ■P !( ,/ W J6 55 6 7 7 «...■■•■ i3 6 6 1 77 S-Memuvw 7 7 7 8 Half Nautic Mile ■4 5 CeLbles Sounding's in Fathoms. LO"NDO:n[, Jaiaes Iinia.v._It is high water at this place at t)h. ■10m., full and change; springtides rise 7 feet. The following remarks on Mazatlan are from the work of M. Duflot de Mofras, 1811 :— " Mazatlan is distant from San Bias about 120 miles ; the navigation between is very easy and usually occupies 2 to 5 days. The intermediate coast is everywhere safe, and has off it at a moderate distance a depth of 6 to 7i fathoms, and at some miles in the offing 38 to 55 fathoms. 120 MAZATLAN. The roadstead of Mazatlan, like that of San Bias, is open and exposed, although in the dry season a vessel ma}' anchor in it in security and find protection from the pre- vailing winds, which are then always from N.W. and from seaward. During the rainy season, the port is extremely perilous ; if at this period a vessel he driven on shore, it would in all prohability hecome a total loss, for the coast is strewn with rocks against which the sea hreaks with violence. Large vessels anchor south of the town, and are sheltered on the west side by Creston, a small but very lofty islet on the north-west side of the roadstead ; this islet is separated from an island north of it by a channel only a few fathoms wide, and this last islet is itself only a cable from the land. When approaching t'le port directly from seaward, the object of recognition is Creston islet, which appears isolated ; to the north- westward of it are two islets named Veuado and Pajaros, which are also useful marks. The anchorage at Mazatlan at present resorted to is southward of Creston island, but the islets just mentioned form with the coast a roadstead which in former days was much frequented by Spanish vessels and which is certainly to be preferi-ed during the rainy season. In this latter roadstead, there is shelter from southward and south- westward and the vessel, if need be, can get to sea either through the channel between the islands or between them and the coast ; but as during the dry season the prevailing noi"th-westerly winds are there very much felt, and the heavy seas they raise break on the beach with great violence, the discharge of cargo is rendered so difficult and dangerous that vessels now prefer the roadstead southward of Creston where these inconveniences are not experienced. The port of Mazatlan has been opened to foreign commerce for some years ; the official name applied to it by the Mexican government is La villa de los Costillos. Its population amounts to about 15,000 during the rainy season, but is much larger during the dry season or the pei-iod when foreign vessels arrive, for at that time the merchants of the provinces of Chihuahua, Sonora, Colima, Sinaloa and Durango, resort to it to make their purchases. The trade is almost entirely in the hands of foreigners who realize considerable profits. The town of Mazatlan is open on all sides, having neither fortificatious nor batteries, a few indilTereutly equipped soldiers forming the entire garrison. Ships ought to get their water in the peninsula which forms the south side of the road; every whei'e else it is brackish. Although Mazatlau is less unhealthy than San Bias, severe fevers are common during the rainy season, au I as thei'e is no hospital in the town, shipmasters should be strict in not allowing their men to run into any excesses, which might be followed by dangerous consequences. Mazatlan is the only port in this part of America, north of Guayaquil, where a ship can procure a complete supply of provisions, A bullock costs 8 or 12 piastres. Flour from Guaymas, which is excellent, is from 12 to 14 piastres for 12 arrobas (::50i5 lb English). Sail-cloth, pitch, tar, cordage, chains, anchors, and timber, partly from wrecks) may be procured in the stores (1810). At 10 leagues eastward of the port, on the road leading to San Bias and Tepic, and 3 leagues from the sea, is the old presidio of Mazatlan. This village is now scarcely more than a ruin ; for since the removal of the trade to the port, it has lost all its MAZATLAN. 121 military importance. There are no vestiges of the old fortifications, and tlio fiue barracks built by the Spaniards only serve now to shelter a few cavalry soldiers; the population is about 500. The Rio de Mazatlan which runs near the presidio, and falls into the harbour, is not navigable." The following notes made on a passage from San Bias to Mazatlan, are by Lieut. Sherard Osborn, K.N., 1846, "Leave San Bias with the first of the land breeze, and after passing Piedra del Mar, endeavour to steer such a course as to be enabled to make a good in-shore tack with the sea breeze on the morrow, taking care not to stand closer to the shore than 8 fathoms in a large vessel, or 5 fathoms in a smaller one ; or, should the Seabreeze be found to have much northing, stand welloif, when a con- tinued wind instead of the land and sea-breezes will be obtained, and the strong southei'ly set in-shore be avoided. The CuUiii'jifuod made the in-shore passage in April, 1846, and had light airs with frequent calms, being generally too far off shore at night to benefit by the land-breeze ; she consequently was five days going 120 miles, whilst the Spij did it in two and a half days by going well to seaward. Mazatlan is easily recognised by the two bluff headlands which form the entrance to the river, the northern and more conspicuous of the two, Creston, being an island, and aftordiug a little shelter from the northerly breezes which prevail from January to May. To the westerly and southerly breezes it is perfectly open, and has the only recommenda- tion of being good holding ground. The coasters run up the river off the new town of Mazatlan, which has risen to considerable importance within a very recent period, not- withstanding the disadvantages it labours under from the paucity of supplies, both animal and vegetable ; and from water being both bad and scarce. Mazatlan is now the outlet for the products of the valuable mining district of San Sebastian, and imports directly and indirectly large cargoes of English goods. The general healthiness of the climate, as compared with its more ancient neighbour San Bias, has materially tended to an increase of its population. The town, from being built on the crests of some heights, clear of mangrove and swamp, had an air of cleanliness and pure ventilation rare in this part of America. Vessels must invariably moor in the roadstead, open hawse to the W.S.W.; but too close a berth to Creston island is not advisable, as the squalls sweep over it with great strength. The Colliiir/ivoud drove, though she had nO f;ttljoms on each cable. Watering is attended with great risk at all times at this place, especially at full and change, the boats having to cross the heavy surf of the bar, formed between a long spit which runs down the centre of the river, and a baiik joining it from the south shore. Several boats and lives are annually lost here. When pulling in care should be taken to cross the surf pretty close to the middle ground ; and wlien through the first rollers, to pull over to the south shore, and keep it on board up to the watering place. In coming out, no casks ought tu be allowed in the head she(!ts, everything depending upon the buoyancy of the boat ; inattention to this point, caused the loss of two lives, to my own knowledge. The water is procured from a number of wells dug by seamen, on a low alluvial island, formed on a quick band in the bed of the river ; none of them are consequently more than 10 feet deep. The water is by no means sweet, but merely sea water, which undergoes a partial purification in filtering through the soil. l-l'l MAZ.VTLAX. Supplies of all sort come from the ueighbourhootl of Sau Bias ; aud as the bullocks are driveu that long Jistaiice, and as on arrival they are instantly killed, from the want of grass, the beef is necessarily loan and bad. Pork, lish, and oysters are however plentiful ; vegetables are scarce. The river abounds in turtle of excellent quality ; wood of various descriptions, principally hard, was plentiful, and at a short distance oak and cedar might be obtained. Old Mazatlan, which lies abo'it 20 miles up the river, was well known to ancient navigators, as far back as 1587. " Master Thomas Cavandish in the talle shippe Desire, 120 tons, refreshed his gallant company before cruising otf cape Lucas, for a Spanish galleon ; and Don Sabastian Vizcaino, in au expedition to convert the Califoruians to the Catholic faith, recruited his squadron in the Bahia de Mazatlan." The following remarks on the anchorage at Mazatlan are by Captain W. H, Parker, P.M.S.S. Co., 1871 : — A good berth is in 8 or 9 fathoms water, with South bluff, Crestou island, bearing W. by tj. \ S., Black rock S.S.E., aud the town of Mazatlan N. by AV. i W. To pick up this anchorage from the westward, pass Creston island at the distance of half a cable, and steer E.N.E. Ciervo island will then be a little open on the port bow ; and when Black rock is abeam (S.S.E.) and the town of Mazatlan two-thirds of a point forward on the port beam (N. by W. \ W.), drop anchor. The toAvn will come into view only a short time before it is time to anchor. To pick up this anchorage from the southward, pass west of Black rock distant one cable, and steer N. f W. The town will then be in view, a little on the port bow. Stand on until Crestou island (South bluff) is half a point abaft the port beam (W. by S. \ S.) and the town of Mazatlan about half a point on the port bow (X. by W. \ W.), when anchor. In both cases, be sure to keep Monte Silla well open westward of Ciervo island, so as to keep clear of Blossom rock. The above, I think, will be found a good anchorage during the greater part of the year, and with the marks I have given can be taken up with great facility. Should you wish to anchor nearer the town, steer about N. ^ E. from the position above given ; but the lead must be kept going, and be sure not to open Azada island with Pala point. The objection to going too close in, is the difficulty of getting under weigh in a large ship, as there is but scant room for manoiuvering. During the bad season, September and October, you may wish to anchor farther out ; but you will be governed by the weather gind the length of your stay. It is not possible to mistake the port. Creston is a small but very high island, running to a sharp point — a very remarkable cone. Ciervo aud Gama islands ai'e vtry small, in fact, large, conical white rocks. The current between Isabel island aud Mazatlan is probably generally to the southward. Off Mazatlan, the soundings arc very bold. I have sounded with 00 fathoms line — no bottom — 15 miles offshore. Should you arrive off the port at night you will see the lights of the town to the northward of Creston island." 123 GULF OF CALIFORNIA. Magnetic Variation in 1879; — At the entrance of tJie Gulf a'oout 9° bO' E.; Guaijinas Jlarhoiir 11° 30' E.; mouth of Colorado Hirer 13° E. ; Ballenas or Whale Channel 12° E. ; La Paz Baij 10° 20' E. The annual increase is estimated to be 2 to 3 minutes. GSNERAi. RSMAKKS. — The entrance to the Gulf of California may he considered to he hetween Mazatlan on the east, and cape San Lucas (at the south extremity of the California Peninsula) on the west. It was designated by the first Spanish navigators the Red or Vermillion sea (^Mar Rot/o, Mar Ycnnejo), on account of the colour of its water, and its resemblance to the Red sea. The learned Jesuit missionaries, who traversed it from end to end, called it Seno Mar Lauretaneg, which means gulf or sea of Loreto."-!' The length of the gulf is about 700 miles ; its greatest breadth is 180 miles at its entrance ; but throughout its extent the distance from one side to the other varies from GO to 120 miles. Beyond the thirty-first parallel, its breadth rapidly diminishes to the Rio Colorado, which fiills into it at its head. The configuration of the Adriatic gives a very good idea of that of the Gulf of California. It has been often remarked, that a singular phenomenon occui's here, which science does not explain, and of which we possess but few examples ; — it is that of rain falling when the atmosphere is quite clear, and the sky perfectly serene. Humboldt and Capt. Beechey have related the fact ; the first having testified as to its occurring inland, the second in the open sea. The two coasts of the Gulf of California run almost parallel with each other toward the N.W. ; they are for the most part low and full of salt marshes, tenanted by alliga.- tors, reptiles, and insects. The general aspect of the country is said to be naked and desolate. There is an entire want of water and vegetation ; only mangroves, and some thorny plants, such as ihe cartas, magueys (aloes), or acacias, being visible. Orange trees or palms are rarely met with, and one must proceed some leagues into the country to find vegetable mould. The shore is formed by sand and huuls quite unfit for cultivation. In addition to a great number offish, of various species, two kinds of immense shark are found in the gulf, which often seize the pearl fishers. Whales are also met with in considerable numbers, and on the islands are numerous seals and sea-calves, the furs of which are very thick. The pearl fishery is, or rather was, carried on in the gulf. * There are apparently only two reasons why the gulf of California was called the Vermillion Sea ; these are i^robably — 1st, the colour imparted to th0 water during the rainy season by the rivers draining a ferruginous country, the river Colorado especially, and— 2ndly, the beautiful purple colour which the waves take at sunset and sunrise. In the day time the waters are blue or green according as the clouds intercept or modify the solar rays, conjointly with the nature and depth of the bottom of tne sea. It is also possible that the colour may be owing to banks at its surface, composed of myriads qf Crustacea somewhat similar to the prawns of the coasts of Europe. 121 GULF OF CALIFORNIA. At tlie entrance of the gulf, ou the eastern side, may be seen in tlie distance, the summits of Sierra Madre ; these separate the provinces of Jalisco, Siualoa, and Honora, and those of Nuevo Mexico, Chihuahua, and Diiraugo. The coast of Lower California presents, without interruption, a series of rugged peaks of volcanic origin, and without any vegetation. This mouutain ciiiiiu, which comes down from the North, and extends throughout the whole peninsula, gradually decreases in elevation as it approaches cape San Lucas. The eastern side of the Gulf of California, between latitudes 23'' and 3-2°, consists of the coasts of the departments of Siualoa and Souora, which are divided by the river Fuei-te. The population of these two provinces is about 300,000, of whom perhaps 60,000 are Indians, The climate is temperate, and the lands in the interior are fertile, but the principal sources of wealth are the mines of gold and silver ; it is said that upwards of two hundred places have been explored and worked, and that these precious metals are met with everywhere. lu these two departments are some considerable cities. The most important are in the province of Sinaloa, Cidiacaii, where reside the governor, bishop, and the prefet of the province Sec, population about 10,000, — Eosario, having a population of possibly 3500, and where the general commanding the forces of Sinaloa and Sonora resides. In the province of Sonera is Arizpe, the capital until the year 1830, when in consequence of the incursions of the Apache Indians the seat of government was transferred to the ancient mission of San Jose de los Ures, 40 leagues to the southward, — population 7000. In this province the port oi Gnaymas concentrates all maritime commerce, but Hermosillo is the centre of its trade and riches. Besides these towns there are in these two provinces many large villages or pueblos. In no part of the many miles of coast between Mazatlan and Guaymas is there a town. At a short distance from the beach there is a depth of 7 to 8 fathoms, and at 3 5 to 20 miles from it 44 to 55 fathoms. The principal rivers, sailing northward from the port of Mazatlan are the Piastia ; the Elota ; the Tavala ; the Culiacan, with a small port named Altata (the sea in front of this river is so shallow that large vessels ought to give the entrance an offing of 5 or G miles) ; the Tamasula ; the Macapule ; the Sinaloa, — to the north-westward of which is point San Ignacio, whence a reef extends seaward about 3 miles. North of point San Ignacio is the river Fuerte or Santa Maria de Ahome. It is said that at the river Fuerte, it is necessary when anchoring to get a mile north or south of the entrance to obtain a depth of 5 to 6.V fa- thoms. About 50 milcjs northward from Fuerte river is the mouth of the river Mayo which io almost closed by a bar. In the vicinity of Guaymas is the river Yaqui, the banks of which are inhabited by an Indian tribe of the same name. Although none of the rivers, just mentioned, are navigable, their entrances will receive coasters, which bring merchandise from Mazatlan, Guaymas and sometimes even from San Bias. The goods are carried thence on the backs of mules to Culiacan, Villa Feliz de Tamasula, Siualoa, Villa del Fuerte and Alamos. Off the coast of Sonora northward from Guaymas there are some islands which bear the names of San Pedro Nolasco, San Pedro Martir, and in about lat. 29° that of Tiburon. The last mentioned island is inhabited by the Seris tribe of Indians, who have some huts on the main land ; it is 10 leagues long, and is the only island in the GULF OF CALIFORNIA, 125 gulf wliich is inhrtl>ited. The channel eastward of the iftlaiiil, between It ami the shore;, is narrow and dangerous, and is fronted at its sortbera end by Patos island. All this part of the province of Sonera is ban-en and inhabited only by some miser- able Tepocas Indians. As far as the river Colorado the coast is for the most }>art very low and ban'eu, and the wind continually raises from it clouds of veiy fine sand. The Colorado river has its source in United States temtory, in about lat. 40° ; its length is estimated to be about 1500 miles, of which abor.t 600 miles is navigable for vessels of small draught. When descending the urstern side of the gulf, from north to south, we pass the wateiing places of San Felipe, San Fermiu, Santa Ysabel, La Visitacion, San Estanislao, the bay of San Luis de Gonzaga, San Juan y San Pablo, Los Piemedios, the bay of Los Angeles, San Rafael, capes San Miguel and San Juan Bautista, the islet of San Barnabe, cape Trinidad, Santa Anna islet, and the cape of Las Virgenes,. which is the last extinct volcano in Lower California, and which, according to the Jesuits, was still in activity in 1746. There is much sulphur in the neighbourhood of the crater of this volcano. Upon the parallel of the volcano of cape Las Yirgenes, at 5 and 8 leagues in the interior, are the missions of Santa Maria Magdalena and Nucstra Senora de Guadalupe. In lat. 29° is the island of Angel do la Guardia which is long and narrow, and forms with the coast the Balleuas channel, where a gi'eat number of whales have been met with. Opposite the island, at 9 leagues from the shore, is the mission of San Francisco de Borja. Opposite the island of San Marcos, in lat. 27° 12', but at 6 leagues inland, there still exists the mission of San Ignacio. That of Santa Rosalia lies half a league from the sea on the banks of the river Mulege, Pearls are, or were, found here, and on the banks of the river fruits and gi-ain are grown. From Mulege bay to Loreto there is always, near the land, a depth of 20 to 80 fathoms, and the coast contains several good anchorages ; the points met with are Concepcion, Santa Teresa, Pulpito, San Juan, Mercenaries, point Mangles, and San Bruno cove. At 3 leagues northward of Loreto the little island of Coronados offers shelter from the north-eastward. Near the beach of the mission there is a depth of 4 fiithoms, and under the lea of the island of Carmen 13 to 16 fathoms. The mission of Real de Loreto, opposite Carmen island, was once the capital of Lower California, but in 1844 it had only about 200 inhabitants ; it was then so much decayed that the authorities had transferred to the Real de San Antonio. The presidio, the mission, and the church, were in ruins. These buildings, very substantially built by the Jesuits, were intended to serve, in case of attack, as an asylum to the inhabitants. They are surrounded by a thick wall, which turns the waters of a torrent that descends from the mountains ; and which several times washed away the houses and the vegetable earth. The presidio was defended by some small bronze artillery, which was never used. The church, for a long time after its decay, contained many pictures, silver vessels, and dedicated jewels of considerable value, which, though left quite exposed, were considered safe from spoliation. 120 GULF OF CALIFORNIA. At L") lengncs in the iutcrior, westward of Loreto, arc the missions of San Jose de Comandn and San Francisco Xavier. Soutlnvard of Carmen island are the Danzantes islands, the Pearl banks, the Galeras islands, Catalana, (3 leagues in length), Monserrate, S:c. The only points visited by shipping are the harbours of La Paz and San Jose del Cabo. La Paz (whercCortoz landed, May Hrd, 1535, )is in lat. 21 \ long. 110" (approximate). It is the most commercial port of Lower California, and the seat of the terri- torial government. Vessels from San Bias, Mazatlan, and Guaymas, often come here to purchase shell at from IG to 18 piastres the quintal, and mother-of-pearl shells at G piasti'es the hundred-weight. At La Paz, the Rio Yaqui, and Guaymas, small vessels of 20 to 40 tons each, are, or were formerly, fitted out for the pearl fishing. The divers are all Yaqni Indians, who often descend to a depth of 10 or 12 fathoms. The fishing begins in May, and ends in October. The principal pearl banks in the gulf are in the bay of La Paz, near Loreto, the S.W. point of Carmen island, Puerto Escoudido, Los Coronados, Los Danzantes, San Bruno, and San Marcos islands. Winds. — The prevailing winds in the gulf of California, from November to May, are from the north-west, and from May to November, from the south-east. During the season of the north-west winds the weather is always fine; though, toward the head of the gulf, during the months of December, January, and February, modernte gales from the north-west are frequently experienced. During the rainy season, or from May to November, south-easterly gales may be expected at any time below Guaymas, and occasionally a local hurricane or cyclone, known as "El Cordonazo," blows with great violence. This latter is generally toward the end of the rainy season. After this the weather clears, the north-west wind sets in, and fine weather for six or seven months follows. Currents and Tides. — The cuiTents depend in a great measure upon the prevailing "winds. Between Guaymas and San Bias they are strong and irregular during the rainy season. Tides are felt throughout the Gulf of California ; their height varies with the direction and force of the wind, and the configuration of the coasts: thus it is 7 feet at Mazatlan, the road of wliich is open; and at Guaymas, the port of which is strewn with islets, and sheltered from the wind, it does not exceed 5^ feet. In the upper part of the gulf, above Guaymas, the tides ebb and flow regularly, increasing in strength until the mouth of the Coloiado is reached, where the ebb tide frequently flows at the rate of 5 or G knots per hour. The COAST. — The coast between ^lazatlan and Guaymas is low and dangerous and should only be approached with the greatest caution. During the rainy season the currents are strong and variable, particularly oft" the mouths of the small rivers and esteros. About 3 miles N.N.W. from Pajaros island is Camaron point, a rocky bluff GO feet high, with a hill 335 feet high about a mile inland. Thence the coast trends N.W. i "W. BOCA TAVALA, CULIACAN RIVER, .tc. ]27 2Gh miles to Punta Piastla, a rocky headland, 110 feet high, with a reef extending oft" a short dis^tance to the southward and westward. The coast between these two points is low and sandy, except at Grueza point ; midway hetwecn them lies a rocky bluft' surmounted by a hill 90 feet high. Nine miles to the northward and eastward of Grueza point is a double peak, ^120 feet high; 5 miles to the westward of which is a solitary table-peak 1220 feet high. Piastla Kiver, 8 miles northward of the point of tlic same name, is a mei'e creek until the rainy season converts it into a torrent. Vessels which come here for dye- wood anchor in 5 or G fathoms, half a mile from the beach and abreast a pier and some huts on the shore. The approximate geographical position of the entrance of the river is lat. 23" 42' 20", long. 100° 45'. Eiota River, 15 miles north-west of Punta Piastla, like the Piastla, is merely a creek in the dry season, but during the rains a turbid torrent. About 30 miles up the river is the village of Elota. The approximate geographical position of the entrance of the river is lat. 23° 54', long. 100° 53'. Boca Tavaia. — From Punta Piastla to Boca Tavala, or entrance to San Lorenzo river, the coast trends N.W. f W. about 50 miles. Tlie coast between them is low and sandy, but free from outlying shoals. About 15 to 20 miles inland is the Sierra de San Sebastian, from 1000 to 5000 feet high, and extending for 30 miles almost parallel with the coast. The approximate geographical position of Boca Tavala is lat. 24° 15', long. 107° 21' 30". The anchorage outside the entrance is in G or 7 fathoms water, 2 miles from the beach, with the round-topped peak of the distant range of mountains bearing N.E. by N. This peak is 4700 feet high, and distant Gl miles from the anchorage. The San Lorenzo river in the dry season is only navigable for coasters drawing 5 feet. The distance from the mouth of the river to the village of Quila is 17 miles. Ships come here for dye-wood. cuiiacan' River. — From Boca Tavala the trend of the coast is N.W. by W. ^ W. 39 miles to the entrance of Altata estero and Culiacan river. All this coast is low and sandy, the low land extending many miles inland to moderately high ranges of mountains. The channel into Culiacan river lies between heavy breakers which extend nearly 3 miles seaward of the entrance. The depth on the bar between these breakers varies, •averaging 2^^ to 4^ fathoms. The anchorage off Altata estero is in G fathoms, 3| miles from the entrance, with the saddle of El Dorado (2G21 feet high), in range with the distant Double peak (G397 feet high, 55 miles inland), bearing N. 43° E. This is, or was (1873), also the range for entering the estero, with 2^ fathoms on the bar at low water. Small vessels find excellent anchorage, sheltered from every wind, off the village of Altata, inside the estero. Schooners and vessels of 50 or 100 tons can enter the river at any time, provided they have sufficient wind in their favour to enable them to stem the tide, which has a strength occasionally of 4 to 5 knots. The ebb tide carries discoloured water several 128 GULF OF CALIFORNIA. miles to sea; this is often mistaken for shoal water. The soundings from seaward to the bar decrease very regularly ; at the bar the depth decreases suddenly. The river above Altata is reported to be navigable for a distance of 10 or 12 miles, with an average depth of 5 fathoms. Altata, the seaport of Culiacan, is a small village near the Culiacan river, which empties into the estero about 3^ miles from the mouth of the hitter. The approximate geographical position of the village (assuming Creston island, Mazatlau, to be in long. 106° 23) is lat. 24° 3G' 3G", long. 107° 53'. It is high water on the days of full and change of the moon at llh. 30m.; spring tides rise about G feet. Supplies. — There is but a poor supply of drinkable water, and provisions are scarce. Cattle can be procured from the rancho of Tulc, at 6 miles from the landing place. There is a good road from Altata and also from Salina to Culiacan; it runs along the river Culiacan which falls into the estero of Altata. On both banks are Indian villages, the inhabitants of which cultivate maize, beans, &c. The distance from Altata to Culiacan is 3G miles. Provisions and various means of conveyance can be obtained at Altata. Culiacan is the capital of the province of Sinaloa. It was founded in 1534, thirteen years after the taking of Mexico by Cortez. In 1853 the town was pillaged, since then its importance has gi-eatly diminished, so that it contains now (1867) only about 3000 inhabitants. If a time of tranquility were to return it would in all probability soon regain prosperity, its geographical position being excellent. Its commerce is chiefly in dye-woods, cotton, and maize. The following instructions for Altata are very imperfect, and are added because they may be of use in the event of the services of some one having a knowledge of the locality not being obtainable ; — a pilot should be got if possible. Captain Horn of the Hamburg barque Coiuiia, 1860, says : — "As it is difficult to recognise the locality of Altata, particularly in the dry season, a coaster with a dull craft, well acquainted with the coast, may possibly make a quicker passage than a stranger in a fast clipper. Leaving Manzanilla in the dry season, which is best done with the land breeze, it is advisable to make long tacks and carry as much canvas as possible to stem the current, not doubling cape Corrientes too closely, the current there being very strong. Having reached the parallel of 21", stand in for the coast, and make the land in the vicinity of Piedra del Mar, in oi'der to anchor, if it should fall calm, as it generally does at night. In the ('oliuni (350 tons) we brought up with the small kedge (2i cwt.) and a 5 inch wiup. The depth of water between Tecapan river and Mazatlan, at about a mile from shore, varies from 9 to 12 fathoms; there are no known dangers but what are visible, the lead showing the distance from the land; — the vessel, beating to windward, should never leave anchoring ground, as the current runs southward at a rate of 30 to 40 miles in 24 hours, and it would in a calm, drift back a considerable distance. On leaving Manzanilla in the rainy season, a passage to Altata is very easily made, carrying a fair wind all the way; but in the dry season when the N.W. wind is blowing, much difficulty is experienced, as strong winds and currents are against you at that ALTATA, PLAYA COLORADO. 129 time. It is advisable to hug the Mexican coast, in order to anchor, in case it should fall calm, as it generally does at night; — by standing out of anchoring ground it is probable that the vessel will drift back in the calm, nearly as much distance as was gained when beating up. On the passage, sight will be obtained of the Sierra de San Sebastian. Having approached about lat. 24° 39' or 24° 40', long. 108° 10', the saddle-shaped hill of Tamasula will bear N.N.E. ^ E. and the vessel will then be W. by S. from the anchorage, distant 7 miles. Steer E. by N. and anchor as soon as in 8 fathoms water, muddy bottom. On steering for the anchorage of Altata, if the lat. of 24° 35' be passed, take care not to approach the shore too much, as there aro reefs stretching out several miles to the southward. It is by no means safe to anchor too near the shore. In case it should come on to blow it is requisite to slip anchor and stand out to sea until the weather moderates." Captain Clemenceau of the Bordeaux vessel Elizabeth, 1858, says of this river,* "The anchorage of Altata is in lat. 24° 42', and a little north of the entrance to the river Culiacan. When approaching it from seaward, the first land seen is the moun- tains of Agua-pepe, which are situated some miles in the interior of the country; these present four detached summits, and it is the most northern of them that has to be kept in view when running for the land, — it should be kept eastward of N.N.E. in order to avoid the banks southward of the anchorage, which are said by the coasters to extend 8 miles to seaward, but this distance there are reasons for believing is exaggerated. As all this coast is excessively low, it woukl be impossible at night to see any part of the shore before striking on the banks just alluded to ; hence the lead must be freely hove, especially if there be reason to suspect that the vessel is in their proximity. The soundings are an excellent guide, and it is recommended not to get into a less depth than 15 or 13 fathoms. The coast at the anchorage trends S.E. and N.W. inclining a little to westward. At a little more to the north it forms a point known as point Baradeta, off which are some shoals which extend out a considerable distance, perhaps 5 or G miles. The anchorage of Altata is between these shoals and others situated 4 miles to the south- ward. The fine season for visiting this coast commences in November and continues till June. During this time vessels are in complete security." From the entrance of the estero of Altata the distance to Boca Playa Colorado is about 39 miles in a N.W. direction. All the intervening coast is low and dangerous, as shoals extend off a long distance, particularly ofi" Tule estero, 10 miles above Altata, and as far to the northward and westward as Altaraura point, 9 miles above Boca Tule, where shoal water (4^ fathoms) is found 3 miles from the land. Playa Colorado, — The entrance to the estero of Playa Colorado lies between two lines of shoals on which the sea breaks even in moderate weather. The depth of water in the channel is usually only 9 feet, but during the rainy season there is said to be 12 feet water on the bar. * Annales Hifdrographiques, Vol. XIV., Page 309, ISO GULF OF CATJFORNIA. The anchorage is in 5 or 6 fathoms about 1 miles from the mouth of the cstero. and at the head of the banks or shoals making off to the southward and westward. To enter the estero make for the beach to the eastward of the entrance, to within half a mile of the shore, and then proceed parallel to the shore-line, passing between the two lines of breakers, and carrying from 9 to 12 feet at low water. The tides rise 6 feet. The little town of Playa Colorado Is ± or 5 miles from the mouth of the estero, and contains about 200 inhabitants. Its approximate geographical position is lat. 25° 15', long. 108° 10'. Large quantities of dye-wood are annually shipped from here. The following observations on making Playa Colorado are by Captain Eisenmenger, 1869.' — " Sailing for Pla3'a Colorado from Mazatlan, I should recommend keeping the Mexican coast on board as far as Tavala mountain in about lat. 24° ; the coast thus far may be considered tolerably clear, but always keep the lead going when standing inshore to take advantage of land and sea breezes. Then stand across to the Lower California coast, — where you ought to be able to make the south end of Ceralbo island, but there is a strong current setting to the southward in mid-channel; then beat up till abreast the north end of Espiritu Santo island, and you will probably be able to fetch your port on the port tack. "When in lat. 25° 10' or 25° 15', — or better still, having sighted the Farallone of St. Tgnacio (a conspicuous white rock in lat. 25"^ 26', long. 109° 21'), steer due East inland, always keeping the lead going, till in about 6 fathoms; if you are then too far to the northward, run in this depth and at this distance from the shore to the southward, till you see the breakers on the Altamura banks far out to sea in a S.S.E. and almost South direction from you ; you may then anchor in 5 or 6 fathoms, with the entrance of Plaj'^a Colorado inlet bearing about N.E., and about 5 miles off the breakers on the bar. There is a difficult bar before the entrance to this inlet ; part of it is a dry sand bank, separated from the main land to the northward by a shallow channel, and on which the sea continually breaks. The entrance to the inlet is well to the southward of this sand bank — where you will find an opening in the breakers; having entered, the channel leads in smooth water in a northerly direction along the breakers on the bar, and the south bank which fronts Saliacca island (south of the entrance). When up with the above-mentioned dry sand bank, you may keep away and steer for the furthermost point of land to the northward, where you will find yourself in a beautiful wide bay with 6 to 7 fathoms of water, protected from all winds. The bay would accommodate hundreds of ships. Coasting vessels always enter over the bar, on which there is about 18 feet at high water; rise and fall of the tide about 7 feet. The bay extends some distance inland, and there is a channel inside Saliacca island and the main by which small coasters and boats are said to go to Altata. The mainland fronting this bay is an extensive mangrove swamp, cut through by many riverlike inlets, which stretch a great way inland and then terminate suddenly where the country begins to rise. These inlets are called esteros; and the largest of them leads to two places whence the dye-woods come, Colorado and El Manglon. To find the mouth of this estero, after entering over the bar, follow the north shore of the bay as far as a high sandhill, w'hich stands close to the shore ; then steer across the bay, nearly midway, or rath«r nearer the north shore, just keeping the northernmost PLAYA COLORADO, &a. 181 bush on Saliacca island open ; this will lead you (in a channel between two shallow sand banks) up to the mouth of the estero; follow the branch to the right; after passing some bends you will find another branch to the right, which you must not enter, but the next fork beyond branches off to the two places, and you are then within a short distance of either, — the branch to the right leading to Colorado, the one to the left to El Manglon. The right branch of the estero leading to Colorado is very crooked, with many little creeks and openings in it, and now you must follow your own judgment, keeping in general towards the left hand ; from a boat's mast or a tree on shore, you can see the masts of the small coasters or lighters, or even the houses and piles of dye-wood at Colorado. The custom-house and port-captain's office are at La Bregha, about 12 miles from Playa Colorado, but rather nearer El Manglon. Vessels from Mazatlan generally take a pilot at about $60. Boca rravachistx is distant 25^ miles W. by N. ^ N. from the entrance to Playa Colorado. The anchorage outside the estero is in 6 fathoms, between 2 and 3 miles from the shore. The entrance is narrow and intricate, with 7 feet on the bar at low water. It has become so shallow that the town of Navachista is fast becoming depopu- lated, and its rival, Playa Colorado, increasing to a corresponding extent. (1874). Seven miles to the noi"th\vard and westward, in the lagoon, is a remarkable white rock, 75 feet high. On the small sand-island of Yinorama, which lies between the islands of San Ignacio and Macapule, tolerable good fresh-water may be obtained by sinking wells. There are several cotton farms or ranches on this island. About 16 miles eastward of Boca Navachista is the mouth of the river Sinaloa, useless for navigation. Topoiobampo. — This harbour lies 22J miles W. by N. ^ N. from Boca Navachista. Its entrance is between two lines of breakers and is exceedingly narrow and intricate. The depth is (or was in 187-4) 2j to 3 fathoms on the bar at low water, but as the shoals constantly shift no dependence can be placed on the same depth being maintained any length of time. Before entering this fine bay with a vessel drawing more than 12 feet, it would be necessary to sound and buoy the channel. The approximate geographical position of the entrance to Topoiobampo harbour is lat. 25° 32', long. 109° 7'. The Farallone of San Ignacio (hereafter described), a small barren rock, 10 miles S. by E. from San Ignacio point, and the high lauds of Topoiobampo and San Ignacio, are excellent landmarks for making the anchorage off the mouth of the harbour. Inside the shoals there is excellent anchorage in 7 or 8 fathoms, sheltered from every wind. Point San Ignacio, in about lat. 25° 36', long. 109° 20', is distant Hi miles W. \ N. from the entrance to Topoiobampo harbour. The intervening coast forms an open bay known as the bay of San Ignacio. There is good anchorage in this bay in north-west winds, but to southerly winds it is entirely exposed. A dangerous shoal extends off the point 3 or 4 miles to the westward, also to the southward about a mile: close around this reef the souudiugs are 19 and 26 fathoms. San Ignacio Farallone. — At about 10 miles S. by E. from San Ignacio point is a small rocky island (perhaps 1^ miles long) of the same name, which rises to the height k2 132 GULF OF CALIFORNIA. of 465 feet, and is the resort of numerous seals, sea-lions and birds; its position is about lat. 25" 26', long. 109° 21', and its situation in the gulf makes it a prominent object to such vessels bound northward as may get too far over to the eastern shore. From point San Ignacio tlie coast turns sharply to the northv^ard and for about 20 miles consists of a low shore with extensive lagoons (or esteros) behind it. Ahome River, — The entrance to Ahome, or Fuerte, river is in about lat. 25° 55', long. 109° 24'. Shoal water extends a long distance off the mouth of this river, so that it is only navigable by small coasters. The village of Ahome is situated about 10 miles from the sea ; from this village a road runs along the left bank of the river to Fuerte, a distance of about 80 miles. In the rainy season large quantities of dye-wood are floated down in rafts and flat-boats. The anchorage is off the entrance in 6J fathoms water. About 11 miles N. by E. from the mouth of Ahome river is the entrance of Alamos river, which is only navigable for the smallest coasters. Four miles to the southward of this river is a remarkable hill, 406 feet high, known as Alligator hill. This. hill serves, with mount Alamos, as an excellent landmark for finding Agiabampo. Agiabampo. — Agiabampo estero is distant about 40 miles to the northward of point San Ignacio. The southern or main entrance channel is narrow and intricate, being between shoals and sand bars, upon which the sea breaks. The least depth on the bar in this channel m 1866 was 6 to 12 feet, but it is subject to change. The depth immediately outside this channel is 4 to 6 fathoms. On the southern side of the entrance of the port is, or was, a cross standing on a sand-hill 75 feet high. To enter the estero bring this cross, or hill, to bear East, and steer directly for it until inside the northern shoal, then haul up and run parallel to the shore. (1874). The town of Agiabampo is 9 miles from the cross. Dj'e-wood, silver-ore, and treasures are shipped from this port. The distance from the landing place of Agia- bampo to Alamos is 45 miles, and to Fuerte 47 miles, along carriage roads. The geographical position of the cross on the hill is considered to be lat. 26° 16' 18", long, 109° 15'. In 1869 there were two navigable channels in use; the northern channel, round the north-east extremity of the sand-bar fronting the port, then carried 6 feet water in fine weather. Captain Townseud, R.N., who visited the harbour in 1866, says "Agiabampo is difficult to find as the coast is composed of one long line of low sand-hills covered with bushes ; mount Alamos to the north, and Alligator hill to the south are the best guides to it. The best anchorage is in about 7 or 8 fathoms, with Alligator hill bearing S. i W. ; mount Alamos N. by E. ;^ E. ; and the cross on the hill E. i S. The sound- ings decrease very regularly until near the bar, when from 3^ fathoms the water shoals suddenly to 9 feet. The best time for boats to enter is the morning, before or with the first of the sea breeze. Schooners of 50 to 100 tons go in and out with the sea and land winds. Treasure from Alamos is no',Y shipped here ; it is, consequently, much frequented." Santa Bartara Bay. — From Agiabampo the coast trends northerly and then westerly to the entrance of Mayo river, a distance of about 25 miles ; 10 miles farther westward CIARIS AND LOBOS ISLANDS. 183 is a low reddish point, known as Punta Rosa, the western limit of Santa Barbara bay. The approximate geographical position of Punta Rosa is lat. 26° 40', long. 109° 88'. On the western side of Santa Barbara bay, and about a mile inside Punta Rosa, is an excellent anchorage in north-west winds, but entirely open to those from the south- east. The best anchorage is in 6 or 7 fathoms three-fourths of a mile from the shore, with the ruins of an Indian house on the beach bearing N.N.W. The country in this vicinity is fertile and well watered, and quite thickly populated. About 8 miles from the mouth of the Mayo, and on its right bank, is the Indian town of Santa Cruz. The Mayo, like all the rivers on this coast, is closed by a bar, leaving a narrow channel on the eastern side of 2 fathoms in the dry season. About 82 miles north- east from the mouth of the Mayo, is mount Alamos, 1980 feet high, an excellent land- mark in navigating the coast. Santa Barbara is the port of Alamos, which is distant 82 miles along a carriage road. Provisions are, or were, plentiful. From Punta Rosa the coast trends W.N.W. 12^ miles to Arboleda point and is fronted by shoal water to a considerable distance. A few miles inland of Arboleda point is a remarkable clump of trees, the only trees in this locality, and an excellent landmark. Claris Island, separated from the main by a nai'row estero of the same name, forms the coast-line to the northward of Arboleda point, as far as the entrance to the estero. It is a low island about 12 miles in extent and is distinguished from Lobos island, farther to the northward, by the absence of the palm-tree. From the north-western end of Claris island to Lobos point, in about lat. 27° 20', long. 110° 35', the distance is 42 miles and direction W. by N. | N. This coast is low and sandy, covered with bushes and cut up by lagoons, off the entrances to which shoal water extends from 1 to 2 miles. Lobos point is the south-west extreme of Lobos island; a dangerous shore makes off nearly 2 miles to the northwaxxl and west- ward of this point. iiobos Island, about 4j miles in extent, is low and sandy, and is sepai'ated from the mainland by the narrow Estero de la Luna. The highest part of the island is a remarkable green mound, 75 feet high, about a mile south-eastward of Lobos point; it is known as Moute Verde. Between the hill and the point is a solitary palm-tree, by which the locality is recognised by the coasters. About 46 miles E.N.E. from Lobos point, and to the south-eastward of Sierra Yaqui, is the small range of Baroyeca, the highest peak of which has an altitude of 3298 feet. From Lobos point the coast trends northerly for about 32 miles to Cerro Yacicoris ; it is very Ioav, consisting merely of a narrow steep of sand, separating the sea from the numerous lagoons behind. Midway of the above distance is the mouth of the New Yaqui river. The entrance of the Yaqui is filled with shoals and sand-bars, and in the dry season is only navigable for the smallest coasters. All the country watered by the rivers Yaqui and Mayo is exclusively inhabited by Indians. Formerly the mouth of Yaqui river was just to the eastward of Cerro Yacicoris. About 20 miles inland, and to the eastward of Cerro Yacicoris, is a range of moun- 184 GULF OF CALIFORNIA. tains known as the Sierra Yaqui, the highest peak of which, mount Bacatele, has an altitude of 3B42 feet. From Cerro Yacicoris the coast, consisting of a smooth sand-beach, trends westerly about 13 miles to Morro Inglese, at the entrance of Guaymas harbour. GtTAYMAS, the most important harbour in the Gulf of California, is situated on the north-cast side of a hilly peninsula, of which cape Haro, 5 miles South (true) from the town, is the extremity. Cape Haro, according to Capt. Kellett's observations, is in lat. 27° 50' 30", long. 110° 61' 40". The harbour is 3 miles in extent, is protected by several islands, and has a depth of G to 2 fathoms, the latter being immediately off the town. The population in 1874 was about 4000. The outermost island, Pajaros, is 212 feet high, and connected on its northern side to a low sandy neck of laud, the Plnya de los Dolores, by a shallow flat of 15 feet ; the proper passage into the harbour for large vessels is consequently westward of this island, between its south end and the coast, through a channel half a mile wide and about 6 fathoms deep. The island of Trinidad, to the westward of the entrance, is now known as San Vicente. When within, vessels are sheltered from all winds, and anchorage may be selected according to the ship's draught of water. This port, although small; is one of the best on the coast of the Pacific. It is perfectly sheltered from all winds, and is sufficientlv deep to accommodate frigates. Vessels of light draug'ht can approach the mole, which is in a bad state, and if the water in front of this were dredged so as to increase the depth 9 or 10 feet, almost all commercial vessels could get to it. (1867). Supplies. — Fresh-water is of indifferent quality and expensive ; the same may be said of the wood. Excellent flour, fresh bread, and beef, may be obtained in any quantity and at moderate prices. No salt provisions or ship's stores can be purchased. At present (1874) the Colorado River Steam Navigation Company has a small quantity of coal for steaming purposes deposited here. Tides. — It is high water on the days of full and change of the moon at 8h. and the rise of tide is about 4 feet, but dependent upon the winds which sometimes increase it to 10 and 12 feet. Some of the hills immediately over the town are loft}', of these mount Vigia, having an estimated height of 1585 feet, is considered to be the highest. Mount San Rafael over cape Haro is probably 1316 feet high. The following notes on Guaymas are extracted from tlie work of M. Duflot de Mofras, 1844: — "The port of Guaymas may be recognised from the offing by a mountain surmounted by two peaks which are supposed to resemble the teats of a goat ; hence the mountain is named by the Mexicans Las Tetas de Cabra. When this is distinguished, run along the coast, leaving it a little to port, and Pajaros island, on the east side of the entrance, will soon be seen ; steer now so as to leave this island to starboard, and you will pass through the channel which it forms with the shore, and soon gain sight of the town and port of Guaymas. It is necessary to pass westward of Pajaros island because a bank runs from it northward to the shore. The entrance of the harbour once doubled, two islands are seen in the inner part of the bay, and the passage is between these to reach the anchorage, near or off the land, according to the Ycssel's draujfht of water. Vessels under 1 00 tons make fast to the landing place, and aUAYMAS. 135 those drawing 12 to 16 feet anclior a quarter of a mile oif, in 3 or 4 fathoms. Large vessels should cast anchor outside these islands in 6 or 7 fathoms water. This harbour, which would hold a considerable number of vessels, is very safe in all seasons ; the bottom is good holding grouud, and it is sheltered from all winds, and forms a large basin, strewn with islands, which prevent any heavy swell from reaching it. The bank in front of the entrance is the only danger to shipping but it is easily avoided with leading winds, by keeping along the land. A vessel obliged to beat in, must be careful not to touch this shoal. The town of Guaymas has usually about 5000 inhabitants during the fine season, — during the rainy season about 2000 return to the small towns in the interior. The port possesses neither fortifications nor garrison. There are numerous military and naval officers residing in this town, but as for the vessels of the latter they exist only on paper. The low price and excellent quality of the flour at Guaymas offer considerable advantages to shipping requiring such. The merchants export the flour to Mazatlan, San Bias, Loreto, and La Paz. Bullocks are sold for about 12 piastres. Vegetables are very scarce and dear, and the water in the harbour is so bad that it is usual to send boats for it to the river Yaqui about 12 miles eastward of the port. Guaymas is surrounded by high mountains, hence the heat is very great in the rainy season. The same fevers prevail here as at San Bias and Mazatlan." Guaymas was visited in 1850 by Captain A. H. Wilcox, of the U.S. Transport Invincible, who anchored in 4^ fathoms ; his remarks on the harbour are as follows : — " The harbour is one of the best upon the coast ; it is perfectly land-locked and pro- tected by its numerous islands from every quarter. It has been so often and so well surveyed, that it is unnecessary for me to enter into a minute description of its merits. It is to be regretted, however, that it has not more water, from 4 to 5 fathoms being the average depth, which is insufficient for a ship of the line, or even a first class frigate. We found Guaymas a dirty place, with a dirty population of about 1500 or 2000. The houses being built of adobe with the roofs sloping towards the interior, have a very unfinished appearance, and from the harbour the town presents the appearance of having been abandoned when half built. There are two small piers in a ruined condition ; and near the landing a large pile of earth, surmounted by two or three crumbling walls, over which floats from a lofty staff the flag of Mexico, marks the sight of the adobe fort knocked down by the guns of the Dale during the late war. There are several wealthy individuals in Guaymas, who monopolize the whole of the business with the interior of Sonora, but the mass of the population are in a state of wretched poverty. One or two small vessels from San Francisco wore lying in the harbour, the proprietors of which had purchased everything in the shape of fresh provisions to be obtained. Sheep in large numbers they had purchased from the interior of Sonora with the intention of landing them at Molexe, on the Califoi-nia coast, thence driving them overland to San Francisco. Fowls, turkeys, ducks, goats, everything that could be purchased for one real and sold for twenty had disappeared, causing us no little difficulty in obtaining fresh provisions, even at comparatively high prices. The water at Guaymas is obtained from wells, and is slightly brackish. Excellent oysters are brought from the river Yaqui, which empties into the bay about 20 miles south of the town, and sold to the shipping at a dollar a bushel; the Mexicans, however, make no use of them. 136 GULF OF CALIFORNIA. The time of high water at full aud change of the moon at Guayiiias is not very .accurately determined ; it is, however, between 8 and 9 a.m. The ordinary rise of spring tides is G feet, neap tides 4 feet. The phenomena of four tides in 24 hours has repeatedly occurred here, as I am credibly informed. The prevailing winds in May, June and July, are from the South-east and South-west. The thermometer during the Bummer months ranges from 92° to 98° Fahr., the maximum 119° ; during winter from 56° to 60°, minimum 45°. Guaymas is in hit, 27° 54', long. 110" 49' 10".- Captain Henry Trollope, R.N. gives the following directions : — " Guaymas once having been seen cannot, with ordinary attention, be mistaken ; the whole coast is so remarkable that one is only at a loss to say which is the most prominent landmark ; nevertheless, as Pajaros island lies right before the entrance when 10 or 12 miles to the eastward, it is a blind harbour ; a stranger without a chart might well be in doubt as to the entrance. Cape Haro, a bold bluff headland, jutting out due South to sea- ward, and rising with a wall-like cliff 200 feet from the water, is the best mark for the harbour ; it has 14 or 15 fathoms touching the rocks, and the entrance between Trinidad (an island so called from the distinct manner in which it is formed in three divisions united at their base) and Pajaros is clear and free froiii danger, only taking care to give the points, particularly Punta Baja, a berth of half a cable ; the lead is quite sufficient guide for going in. Secondly, the white smooth beach of Cochore, extend- ing uninterruptedly from the Morro Inglese, at the entrance of the harbour, 12 miles to the eastward, and terminated suddenly by a still more remarkable hill, called Cerro Tordillo, or as we termed it, Morro Afulva, lies in such contradistiuction to the extra- ordinary mass of hills forming the peninsula, out of which the harbour of Guaymas is hollowed like the crater of a volcano, that it is from the contrast almost equally re- markable. Further to the northward are the remarkable peaks callad Tetas de Cabra (goat's teats). Some have recommended these to be made, as the prevalent wind is from N.W. and there is certainly no advantage to be gained by getting over on the Cochore shore, while by making the land to the windward of cape Haro a ship will have the prevalent breeze and current in her favour. The Tetas de Cabra are about 10 miles N.W. by W. of cape Haro ; they stand on the west shore of a large deep bay, which has several patches of rocks and islets in it. Pajaros isle forms of itself an excellent harbour : in fact, the space between Trinidad, Pajaros, and Morro Inglese is equal as far as security, and superior as to depth of water, to the harbour itself ; the advantage the latter has, is in there being a better access into the interior. The tides are very irregular, except at full and change ; there appears to be only one tide in the twelve hours, but then the usual interval occurs between high and low water. The greatest rise and fall we observed during our stay, was 4 feet. High water 8h. a.m." Ensenada de San Francisco. — "Westward of capo Haro, distant about 4 miles, is cape Arco, 970 feet high ; 8 miles beyond which is point San Antonio. The coast between the two latter points forms a bay which is known as the Ensenada de Francisco. * This almost exactly agrees with the ohservations of M. Fisquet of the French corvette La Danaide, 1810, who places the island Almagrito, opposite the town, in lat. 27° 53' 50", long. 110° 49' 26." TIBURON ISLAND, &c. 137 There are several islets in this bay from 10 to 15 feet in height. On its east side is the anchorage of Bacochibampo, sheltered from south-east winds. Here fresh-water, fresh beef, fruit, &c. may be obtained. About one mile northward of this anchorage is the cerro of the same name, 1450 feet high. Two and a half miles to the eastward of point San Antonio is the entrance to Puerto de San Carlos, or Escondido. This small port is completely land-locked, and affords an excellent anchorage for small vessels, there being 8 and 4 fathoms water inside. About one mile eastward of point San Antonio are the remarkable peaks. Las Tetas de Cabra, already alluded to. Two miles northward of point San Antonio is a group of small islands, known as the Algodones, the outer Venado island being about one mile from the shore. San Pedro Point. — N.W. by W. ^ W. lOi milcs from point San Antonio is a bold rocky headland 515 feet high. To the southward of the point is a small open bay of the same name, in which a ship may find shelter in a north-west wind, San Pedro rj'oiasco is about 8 miles S.W. ^ S. from San Pedro point. It is a barren rocky islet of volcanic origin, about 2 miles in length parallel with the coast, and 500 to 1000 feet in height. There is a sunken rock lying off its south-east end. It is inaccessible on every side. The approximate geographical position of its north-west extremity is lat, 27° 59', long, 111° 22'. From San Pedro point the coast trends N.W. ^ W. about 16 miles to Morro Colorado ; a remarkable headland of a reddish colour, 560 feet high. This part of the coast is high and barren throughout, affording neither shelter nor anchorage. Six miles S.E. ^ E. from the latter point, is a white rock 60 feet high, distant about 1^ miles from the shore. This and three others close in-shore are known as Las Piedras Blaucas. Northward of Morro Colorado distant 4^ miles is the small estero of Tastiota, at the bottom of which fresh-water may be obtained. San Pedro wiartir. — This islet bears from Morro Colorado W. ^ S. 49 njiles, and from the south end of Tiburon island S. f E., 22^ miles. It is 1052 feet high and stands nearly in midchannel. The approximate geographical position of its centre is lat. 28° 23', long, 112° 17'. From the entrance of Tastiota estero the coast, which is low and sandy, trends westerly for about 14 miles and then north-westerly for 22 miles to Kino point. All this part of the coast is known as the San Juan Bautista flats. Kino Bay. — Northward of Kino point is an open bay of the same name, in which small vessels can find shelter from north-west and south-east winds. At the bottom of this bay is the entrance to La Cruz lagoon. Pelican Island. — About 2\ miles N.N.W. from Kino point is a small island known as Pelican, lying close to the mainland : it is 540 feet in height. Its approximate geographical position is lat, 28° 48' 30", long, 111° 57'. TiBUnou ISLAN'D. — The south-east end of Tiburon island bears W. by S, J S, 16 miles from Pelican island, Tiburon is 29 miles long, S, by E. and N, by W., and 19i miles wide; it is high and rugged, its peaks varying in height from 1000 to 2500 feet. It is separated from the main land by a narrow intricate channel, knQwn as El Infernillo, about 2 miles wide. 138 UULF OF CALIFORNIA. OS the north-west side of the island is a small ensenada, named Fresh Water bay. Here ships may find shelter from south-east winds.. Off the southern end of Tiburon island, about I4 miles distant, is a small barren island about one mile in length and 800 feet high, which is named Turner island. Between it and Tiburon is a small rocky islet, 150 feet high, leaving a clear channel 3 cables wide between the two last. A dangerous rock, awash at high water, lies 6 cables S.S. W. f W. from this rocky islet. Cape Tepopa, 8 miles N.N.W. ^ W. from the northern end of Tiburon island, is a bold headland, 1857 feet high. It forms the north side of the entrance to El Infernillo channel. Patos Island lies S. by W. i W. 5^ miles from cape Tepopa. It is small and low except on the north-west side, where it rises in a conical hill to the height of 310 feet. It is nearly white from the deposits of guano and entirely barren. Its approximate geographical position is hit. 29° 16' 30", long. 112° 26' 30". There is a tolerable anchorage, in a north-west wind, on the southern side, in 5 fathoms, sandy bottom, a quarter of a mile from the beach. Spring tides rise 10 feet, neap 7 feet. From cape Tepopa the coast trends N.W. f N. 39 miles to cape Lobos ; it is low and sandy, the coast-range rising to an elevation of 600 to 2o00 feet a short distance inland. 3Cap9 iiobo9, off which are some sunken rocks, is the extremity of a rocky promontory the summit of which is 1180 feet in height. Immediately to the south-eastward of the cape is the anchorage of Libertad, where a vessel will be well sheltered from north-west winds. This anchorage is in 8 or 9 fathoms water about h.alf a mile from the head of the bay. Spring tides rise about 12 feet, neaps 9 feet,. CapeTepoca is 300 feet high and of a reddish colour. When first seen from north- ward it appears as an island. Another higher hill, of 540 feet, just to the northward of the cape, of a dark red colour on a yellow bed, is an e:jcellent guide to the anchorage in Tepoca bay to the southward of the cape. The extreme western point of the bay is low and rocky, with a reef covered at high water, extending off a short distance to the southward. Good anchorage may be found inside this point, in 5 or 6 fathoms at low water, well sheltered in a north-west wind. Spring tides rise about 15 feet and neaps about 12 feet. About 18 miles N.W. by N. from cape Tepoca is the entrance to San Ignacio river, in lat. 30° 35'. This river only breaks through the sand- bar at its mouth during the rainy season, but fresh-water may be obtained at all times just beyond the sand-hills. Thence to the north-westward the coast is of less elevation and consists, as far as Shoal point, of low sand-hills, and with the exception of some low stunted bushes, is entirely destitute of vegetation. George Island, in lat. 31° 0' 30", long. 113" 14', is merely a barren rock, 206 fee high. Hocks extend about l.i^ miles to the northward and westward of the islet, some of which are above water anil others awash at low water. A tolerable anchorage in a south-east wind may be found on the northern side of the jslet, off a small sand-beach covered at high water, which connects the islet with the nearest rock. COLORADO RIVER. 139 The coast northward of George island curves round in a westerly direction and forms an open bay, known as George bay, off the shores of which shoals extend a con- siderable distance, almost filling the bay. The whole coast thence southward, as far as caj^e Tepoca, is fronted by shoal water to the distance of li to 2 miles from the sandy beach. Rocky Point, a low black point 24 miles N.W. ^ W. from George island, forms the eastern limit of a small open bay of the same name. About 5 miles westward of the point is a headland 108 feet high, known as Rocky blufl", which forms the western limit of Rocky bay. Westward of this bluff is an extensive open bay, named Adair bay, which is so full of dangerous shoals as to be unnavigable by the smallest class of coasters. Shoal Point, a low rocky point distant about 40 miles W. -| N. from Rocky point, is on the eastern side of the entrance to Colorado river. Port Isabel. — Above Shoal point there is a channel, with 2 to 5 fathoms water in it at low water, as far as the slough of port Isabel, which is situated on the eastern &ide of the river's mouth. The only safe guide is the lead, as the flats and sho&ls are constantly shifting. Tides. — The tide runs with great strength at the full and change of the moon, at times as much as G miles an hour. It is high water at port Isabel (F. & C.) at 2h. 30m., and an hour earlier at Shoal point. Spring tides in summer rise 32 feet, in w^iuter 28 feet. COLORADO RIVER. — -This river, now in United States territory (except near the mouth), rises on the western slopes of the Sweetwater mountains and the Sierra de las Grullas, between latitudes 40° and 44°. It divides the State of California from the territory of Arizona. Its length from the upper sources of its tributaries is about 1500 miles, — the country in its vicinity being inhabited chiefly by Indians. It has but little depth, especially in the dry season ; its banks, also, are so low that after heavy rains and the melting of the snow on the hills at its sources its waters overflow and inundate the flat country through which it passes. Its mouth, at the head of the gulf, is nearly 6 miles wide and divided into three channels by two small islands, named Montague and Gore islands. The main channel is eastward of the islands ; it is narrow and dangerous and has only 5 or 6 feet water in it. Within the river are many banks dry at low tide. Near the mouth there is no vegetation, but higher up, the shores are thickly lined with rushes, willows, &c., and the interior country is clad with a coarse sharp grass. At about 70 miles in direct distance fi-om its entrance the Colorado receives the Rio Gila, which falls into it from the eastward, after it is increased in volume by the Rio de la Ascencion, formed again by the junction of the R.os Verde and Salado. AH these rivers rise in the branches of the Sierra Madre, have hut little depth, and during the rainy season overflow their banks. The country in their vicinity is very fertile, and furnishes abundant evidence of the existence of gold ; it is inhabited by Yumas, Axuas, Cocomaricopas, Apaches and other Indian tribes, in number about 20,000. On the southern side of the junction of the Colorado and Gila rivers is Arizona city 140 GULF OF CALIFORNIA. and on the northern side is fort Yuma, the first station of the Colorado Steam Naviga- tion Company. At this place the summers are intensely hot (rising to 12G° Fahr. in the shade); hut the winters are mild, the thermometer never registering below 34° Fahr. ; there is scarcely any rain. The Colorado is navigable for small steamers and barges drawing under 2 feet, as far as Colville, in lat. 36° 13', a distance of about 600 miles from the river's mouth. Throughout this extent it varies in width from a half to 1^ miles, and its depth aver- ages 4 to 8 feet ; there are no serious obstructions from rapids or other causes. Above Colville the Colorado runs through a wonderful natural phenomenon, the Grand or Black Canon, a gorge 8 to 10 miles in length. Through this, it is said, the river flows with a deep current, and has an average width of 200 feet. The water is smooth and unbroken, and no rocks obstruct the passage. A large portion of the distance perpendicular walls rise to the height of 1000 feet on either side, in some places almost shutting out the light of day, and awaking in the mind of the voyager, the most profound admiration and awe. In solemn grandeur and native sublimity, it is said, no spot on earth e(juals the Black Canon of the Rio Colorado. Tides. — At Shoal point, near the entrance of the Rio Colorado, the tides rise 25 to 30 feet at springs and 16 to 20 feet at neaps : high Avater full and change at Ih. 30m. The tidal currents are very strong, running 5 or 6 knots per hour, or even more. At about 40 miles from the river the tidal motion ceases entirely. Captain Wilcox, U.S. Navy, 1850, gives the following description of Colorado river: — "We landed on the 25th, both on Montague island and the main, and found the soil clay detritus, and the vegetation scanty. The two islands situated in the mouth of the river, Montague and Gore, are low, flat and sandy. They are separated by a channel about one mile in width, and extremely shallow. They are evidently formed by the accumulation of the sand and detritus from the river, and are gradually increasing in size. We commenced the survey of the river upon the 25th, which we continued from day to day as we ascended. On the 27th, by taking advantage of the tide, we had succeeded in reaching Unwin point, off which we anchored. The log gave us at this point a current at ebb tide of 4^ miles per hour, which we found to be the average velocity, except at spring tides, when it is much increased. On the 28th we left our anchoi'age at 7h, a.m., and beat up with the flood tide until about 9h.," when we grounded off Charles point. The soundings had been from 1^ to 3i fathoms. At this point we found the -water devoid of any brackish taste, but ex- tremely muddy, resembling in its character that of the Mississippi river. We continued daily up the river, sounding the channel at low water, and marking it by stakes, starting with the flood tide and floating with it until the ebb set in, when we anchored and went on shore to continue the survey. The shores of the river (here from 2 to 4 miles wide) continue of the same character, the grass growing somewhat more thickly as we ascended, however, and upon Greenhithe point, off which we anchored upon the 1st of January, we found a thick growth oi artemisia. We had experienced no little difficulty in crossing from Charles point to Greenhithe point; the channel is extremely narrow, and nearly at right angles to the direction of the river, and we had twice been Bwept from it by the tide, and grounded upon the bank above. Upon the 1st, however, COLORADO RIVER. 141 we were favoured with a strong breeze, taking advantage of whicli we soon crossed and anchored in the channel upon the southern side. We landed upon Greenhithe point, (formed by two small indentations in the crumbling clayey bank,) and found the land on the south bank to be a perfectly level plain (the soil clay detritus), extending to the south and west for miles, and intersected by numerous sloughs, apparently filled by every spring tide. The river westward is bounded by the high hills of the Lower California chain, at the distance ai>parently of 15 or 20 miles. Trunks and limbs of large trees, some recently deposited, others in an advanced state of decay, are thickly scattered about, evidently left by the freshets. The river bank is abrupt, and about 20 feet in height; the water is- gi-adualty undermining it, and large pieces are con- tinually dropping off, falling into the water with a sound as loud and not unlike the distant report of a musket. We discovered two new islands in the reach above Green- hithe point; they are low and sandy, separated by a small channel and covered with coarse grass ; they have undoubtedly been formed within a few years. The bed of the river is filled with quicksand, and its current at the time of spring tides is so strong that the channel is continually changing. I named these islands Gull and Pelican respectively, from the nunaerous flocks of these birds continually hovering or afloat in their vicinity. We discovered the remains of a rude Indian hut near the shore, and observed many tracks of horses in the vicinity. During the night of the 1st the vessel grounding ^i ebb tide, swung around upon her heel, and thumping violently was carried by the tide (dragiug her anchor) some 2 or 3 miles, grounding finally upon the shoal of Gull island; at flood tide sail was made on her as soon as she floated, and we succeeded in getting her back into the channel. As the vessel grounded at every ebb tide, and on the return of the water was violently swung around, thumping on her bottom, arid swinging on her anchor, I began to see that it would be neither prudent, nor in fact possible,- to ascend the river much higher, and we accordingly commenced making preparation for a boating expedition ; the tides were now on the increase and on the 2nd I observed, with the log, the velocity of the current at ebb tide to be 5^ miles per hour. We observed on the 2nd, for the first time, the singular phenom- enon of the tide coming in, in a bore or wave, while the ebb was still rushing past the vessel towards the Gulf. On looking in the direction of Greenhithe point, a bank of water some 4 feet in height, extending clear across the river, was seen approaching us with considerable velocity ; it moved steadily onward, occasionally breaking as it rushed over the shoals of Gull and Pelican islands ; passing the vessel, which it s^'ung around on its course, it continued up the river. This phenomenon was of daily occurrence until about the time of neap tides, and shows the truth of Hardy's assertion, that "there u 7io siicJi thuifj as si a ek -water in the river Colorado.'' I took the whale boat on the afternoon of the 2nd and proceeded up the river with the flood-tide; rounding Howard point, (so called by Hardy) we found ourselves in a broad but shallow bay about 4 miles in width. At the north-east and north-west extremities we found the two branches of the river, the former of which he mistook for the Gila; this is in fact the main channel of the river, the other being merely a slough which divides the river, about a mile from its entrance, into two branches, one of which terminates in a small lagoon about 4 miles from its mouth, the other communicating with the river- 142 GUl.F OF CALIFOUN'IA. a"bove. As there is not water enough in either of these branches to float a whale boat at low tide, it is evident that the river must have altered entirely since Lieut. Hardy's visit, or that he never ascended it as he says he did with the Brija, a schooner of 25 tons. We sounded right across the bay and found a depth of 2^ to 7 feet. As the schooner was drawing 8 feet, this settled the question as to her navigating the Colorado above this point." After some interesting remarks upon the Indians who inhabit the country bordering on the river, Captain Wilcox continues " The bar at the mouth of the Colorado is about 10, possibly 15 miles in width; the soundings upon it are from 10 fefet to 4 fathoms; it is a very loose, muddy bottom, and with a stiff breeze a vessel could force her way over it, even if drawing a foot or more than the load would indicate. The distance from the junction of the Gila and Colorado to the mouth of the latter, by water, is about 104 miles, owing to the many bends of the river, though the difference of latitude is but little more than half that distance. The navigation of the gulf of California presents none of those difficulties which we had been led to anticipate. The wind we found invariably from the north-west, which, at this season of the year, is its prevailing direction ; it is only during the months of June, July, and August that the gales from the south-east are prevalent ; except in Whale channel we noticed none of the strong currents so frequently men- tioned as ex^isting in the Gulf. It would be difficult to mistake the entrance to the Colorado, it being in fjict the head of the gulf, which gradually narrows from 40 to B miles when it is joined by the river, whose turbid stream discolours the gulf for many miles to the southward, in soundings of VA and 14 fathoms. On the Sonora coast, however, exists an indentation some 15 or 20 miles in depth, called by Hardy, Adair bay; the shoals of this can be seen from the mast-head, a view from which would prevent one falling into the error which we did of supposing it a mouth of the Colorado. The angle at the junction of the slough and the main river is called Arnold point, and from the mouth of the river (after crossing the bar) to this point, the channel varies in depth fi-om 15 to 30 feet, at ordinary high tide, and may, as we have practically demonstrated, be ascended by a vessel having a draught of 8 or 9 feet, by taking advantage of the flood, which has a velocity of from 3 to 5 miles per hour. It is impossible to sail up, however, for although the river varies in width from 3 miles to GOO yards, the channel is narrow and the navigation elsewhere obstructed by the numerous sand bars. The proper method, after passing Gore and Montague islands through the western channel of the river, is that which we adopted, to drift with the flood tide, keeping close to the highest bank, sounding continually, and anchoring before the time of high water; in this way we progressed slowly but steadily, making, perhaps, 4 or 5 miles per day, until we arrived at the point where we finally landed the stores, and which I have named Invincible point. Above Arnold point the river is very circuitous, the swell of the tide rapidly decreases, the channel becomes narrow, and the water has less depth. At this season, therefore, Arnold point may be considered the head of navigation for vessels of 9 feet draught ; above this point we found always from 3 to 15 feet of water in the channel, whose COLORADO RIVER. 148 width varied from 50 to 300 yards ; and as the river at that time was at its lowest stage, I have no hesitation in saying that it may be navigated at any season of the year by a steam-boat of 18 to 20 feet beam, drawing 2h to 3 feet of water. A small stern- wheel boat, with a powerful engine and thick bottom, I would respectfully suggest to be a proper description of vessel for this navigation, where a strong current has to be contended with, and the channel (somewhat obstructed by small snags and sawyers,) is quite narrow in several places. At the present season (January, February, and March,) supplies from vessels arriving from the Gulf may be landed near Arnold point, upon the eastern bank, and a road being made from the post (a work of little difficulty over a level sandy plain) they might be transported by waggons across in three days. It would be preferable, however, to establish a depot by anchoring a hulk near Charles point, laden with stores, from which a small steam-boat could carry more to the post in 2-4 hours than a hundx-ed waggons could transport in a week. Either of these methods would be far preferable to the present slow, laborious and uncertain mode of supplying by waggons and pack mules across the desert from San Diego. The time of high water at full and change at Arnold point is 3h. 20m. p.m., and the rise of ordinary spring tides about 12 feet ; but during the season of freshets the river throughout its extent (judging from the statement of the Indians and the indications upon the banks) is at least 15 feet higher than at the time of our visit, and the velocity , of the current which, above the effect of the tide, was from 1 to 3 miles an hour, is nearly doubled ; the action of the tide ceases about 40 miles from the mouth ; the banks of the i-iver are low, flat, and either sandy or of crumbling clay which appears to have been deposited in successive strata. Near the mouth there is no vegetation, but higher up the shores are thickly lined with cane, rushes, small willows, acacia and cotton wood, and the cauntry in the interior covered with a coarse sharp grass. Invincible point is in lat. 31° 50' 26", long. 114° 40' 43". The large s-hoal south of the point is an island, except at spring tides, and is gradually increasing in size and height."* ■WESTERN SIDE or THE GtTLr.- — The coast on the western side of the entrance of Colorado river as far as point San Felipe, in about lat. 31° 2^', consists of low plains rising gradually towards a range of mountains, 1500 to 2000 feet high, several miles inland. Mud flats and shoals extend nearly to the Sonora shore, having a narrow channel, with 2 to 5 fathoms water, between the flats and the mainland. Southward of point San Felipe, which rises to a height of 500 feet, is the small bay of the same name, in which som-e shelter can be found in a north-west wind. W. by S. I S. from point Felipe is the mountain of Calamahue, 9130 feet high, * San Francisco merchants are much interested to secure the trade of the Upper Colorado, which opens a navigable route to Colville, 420 miles from Salt Lake, and is fast acquiring commercial importance. Two different companies, each owning three steamers are engaged in a brisk business. Cargo for the Colorado river is delivered from San Francisco at fort Isabel, at the head of the Gulf of California, where it is taken up by the small steamers and carried to its different points of desti- nation. Between Colville and Salt Lake is a good waggon road, along which there are no less than forty- two thriving towni and villages. New York Journal of Commerce, April 24th, 1867. 144 GULF OF CALIFORNIA. said to be the highest in Lower California. It is nearly white on the top and jagged in appearance. consas Rock- hears N.E. by E. from point San Felipe, distant 19 miles. It is small, 286 feet high and nearly white, and is sometimes called Ship rock from its resemblance to a ship under sail. There are several rocks extending nearly half a mile from it in a south-westerly direction. The coast from point San Felipe to abreast the island of San Luis, in lat. 29° 58', trends about S.S.E. J E., and is low and sandy the whole distance, the coast-range rising to a height of several hundred feet a few miles in the interior. The water is shoal, there being from 12 to 15 fathoms 5 oi- 6 miles from the shore. San L-ais Island, distant about 2h miles from the coast, which is here low and sandy, is of volcanic origin. Its highest peak is 729 feet. A sand spit extends nearly a mile from the southern end of the island, leaving a safe passage of a mile and a half between it and the mainland. Good anchorage for either of the prevailing winds may be found here; on the southern side of the sand-spit foi- a north-west wind, and on the northern side for a south-east wind. About 2 cables from the northern end of San Luisy and connected with it by a reef covered at high water, is the high rocky islet of Cantada. There are several rocks covered at high water in this vicinity. To the north-westward of these are three small islets, 300 to GOO feet high, lying parallel to the coast and distant from it about 3 or 4 miles. ifan Luis Gonzales Bay, to the southward of San Luis island, affords good anchorage during south-east winds but is open to northerly winds. Its eastern limit is formed by Final point, from which San Luis island bears N.W. distant 12 miles. From point Final to point Remedies, in about lat. 29° 15', the trend of the coast is S.E. by E. i E. and the distance about 46 miles. All this part of the coast is high, rocky, and precipitous, affording no shelter or anchorage the entire distance. Ilemedios point is low and sandy, with the high coast range a shoi't distance back. ANOHi. BE LA GUARDiA. — Off this part of the coast is the great island of Ange- les, or Angel de la Guardia. It extends 40 miles pai-allel with the coast, and is high, rocky, and perfectly barren. The whole western side is inaccessible and without anchorage ; but on the eastern side there are several open bays where anchorage may be found in north-west winds. Off its northern end are several small, islands, the largest of which is known as Mt>jia island. The channel between Angeles island and the mainland is known as Ballenas, or Whale channel. The tide sets through here at times with great force. A current of at least 3 knots per hour hiis been experienced. Puerto Refugio. — Between Angeles and Mejia islands is a fine harbour called Puerto Refugio, in which vessels may anchor, sheltered from every wind. About 1| miles south-westward of the entrance to this harbour is a remarkable white rock 167 feet high, known as the Sail rock. To enter the harbour fi'om the westward it is necessary to pass to the northward of Sail rock, as there are several dangerous rocks, covered and awash at high water, bearing N.E. by E., distant rather more than a mile from Sail rock, and 4 cables from the shore. There are also rocks lying off the southern extremity of Mejia island, about a cable from the cliffs.- ANGELEH AND SAX RAFAEL BAYS. 1-15 The approximate geographical positiou of the south-east point of Mejia island is lat. 29° 33' 7", long. 113° 82'.=:= Remedios Bay, southward of Remedios point, affords shelter during north-west winds. The best anchorage is iu 10 fathoms a third of a mile from the beach, off a red hill 200 feet high. Angeles Bay, 22 miles S.E. from lleniedios point, is about 6 miles wide at the entrance and 4 to 5 miles deep. It is frontc;! by no less than fifteen islets, the largest of which. Smith island, is nearly 4 miles in b-ngth and one mile in width. This island is high, flat-topped, its greatest altitude being l~)h() feet. To enter Angeles bay from northward, follow the coast, passing between it and Smith island, keeping about a mile from tlie shore, until the spring is opened, to the southward of the sand-spit mentioned below. To enter the bay from southward, it is better to follow the coast, passing in betweett the first island and the mainland. On the western side of the bay is a small cove formed by a sand-spit extending to southward and eastward. Here excellent anchorage may be found, in 7 or 8 fathoms water, sheltered from all winds. Spring tides rise about 12 feet in this bay. Fresh-water may be obtained from the springs near the anchorage. These springs are at the foot of a high round-topped mountain, 3420 feet in height, and are marked by reeds and bushes in their vicinity. Las Animas Bay, the next bay to the south-eastward, is about 6 miles deep, and affords good anchorage for either of the prevailing winds. Its entrance lies between two headlands, the eastern of which is known as cape Las Animas. Three miles southward of this last-named cape are two dangerous rocks known as Barnabe rocks. They are rather more than half a mile from the shore, and have but 2 feet on them at low water. There is a tolerable anchorage southward of the reef which unites them to the shore. San Rafael Bay. — From cape Las Animas the coast trends southerly about 20 miles and then curves to the eastward, forming the open bay of San Rafael. The eastern termination of this bay is point San Francisquito, which is low and rocky. San Gabriel Point, about 4 miles eastward of point Francisquito, is low, with high volcanic hills just behind it. It is distant 30 miles S.E. -| E. from cape Las Animas. Immediately to the westward of San Gabriel point is the fine bay of San Francisquito, in which a vessel may find shelter from either north-west or south-east winds. Islands of San Lorenzo, Esteban, &c. — Off the part of the coast just described lie the islands of San Lorenzo, Sal-si-puedes, Isla Raza, and Isla Partida. The passage between these islands and the mainland is known as the Sal-si-puedes channel. San Lorenzo, the southernmost and largest uf these islands, extends 12 miles W.N.W. and E.S.E. It is between 11 and 31 miles in width, and, like most of the other islands of the gulf, is high and barren. It is of volcanic origin, and is entirely destitute * A plan of Puerto Refugio is published on the Admiralty chart No. 2248, edition 1879, to which we ref«r our readers. 146 GULF OF CALIFORNIA. of vegetation. The highest peali, near the southern end of the island, has an eleva- tion of 1592 feet. About 2k miles from its northeni end is a narrow boat-passage through the island - A mile northward of San Lorenzo is the small island of Sal d-pueileg-, at>out H niilcfir lon», W.N.W. and E.S.E., aid not more than half a mile across in its widest part. The highest peak is 37 G feet. There are several detached rocks near the island. There is a tolerable ancluMage under the northern end of San Lorenzo, in a south- east wind. Isla Rout is about 100 feet in gi-eatest height. It lies 5 miles N. by W. f W. from Sal-si-puedes, and is nearly white from the deposit of guano on it. There is a small whito rock about 1.^ mile? north-westward of the island, and another awash between the two. Five miles north- west\Tard cf Tsla Fiaza is a- smsll island known^ as Ma Partida, from the fact that at a distance it has the appearance of being two islands. It is abont 1^ miles long, nearly north and south, and is formed of two peaks about 400 feet liigh, joined by a low and nan-ow strip of land. Two miles northward of this island is a rock abou-t ¥15 feet high, with a reef nsaking. off to the northward and east-' ward about a mile, and endinyin a-rowk 2 feet- above water at low tide. About 10 miles. E.N. E.-w-ai-d'O-f San Lorenzo island is the island of San Esteban^- about 4^ miles long and 3 miles wide. It is from 800 to 1700 feet high, and is rocky and barren. There are two tolevftble anchorages off its southern' end on either side of a low sand-spit. San Pedro DEartir island, already mentioned on page 137, lies E. | N. 30 miles from San Gabriel point. It is a barren triangular rock- less than 2 miles in' extent, the highest part having an altitude of 105-2 feet-. There are three small islets off ita southern end, the smallest being half a mile distant. The coast from San Gabriel point to cape San Miguel, in lat. 28° 12', a distance of 14^ miles, is generally low, being formed of low bluffs and' s^tud-beaches-; the coast' range being a short distance inland. A mile to the southward of-Sau Gabriel point is the small open bay known as Santa Teresa bay, where excellent anchorage ia north- west winds may be found in 7 or 8 fathoms a third of a mile from the beach. Cape San Miguel is a bold rocky bluff, 175 feet high, with several outlying rocks a^ short distance eastward of it. Southward of this cape is an excellent anchorage in' north-westerly winds, in 7 or 8 fathoms, half a mile from the small sand-beach, a mile inside the cape. Trinidad Point, about 21 miles S. by E. ^ E. from- cape San Miguel; is- a^ moder- ately high bluff, with a hill 137 feet high just behind it. Close to the northward of this- poiut is the open bay of San Carlos, on the northern side of which is San Carlos point. This latter point is low, with a small open bay northwai'd of it, known as San Juan Bautista bay. Cape virgenes, 200 feet high, is distant about 27 miles S.E. by E. i E. froirr Trinidad point. The intervening coast is low, the mountain-range being several miles^ in the interior. About 11 miles westward from cape Yirgenes is Santa Anna point, beyond which is an open bay of the same name, where shelter may be found in a south- SA'N MAECOS ISLAND, PURGATORIO, &c. 147 east wiud. A small fresh-water creek empties into the sea here; it may be recognised by the grass and trees on its banks. From 12 to' 14 miles inland are the three remarkable mountains known as Las Tres Virgenes, the highest having an altitude of 6547 feet. Between the Virgenes and the coast is Santa Maria mountain, 4302 feet high. From cape Virgenes the coast trends south-easterly to abreast San Marcos island and then curves to the eastward, terminating in point Chivato, in lat. 27° 5'. San Marcos Island lies 2h to 4 miles off this part of the coast, its centre being in about lat. 27° IB', long. 112 2'. It is about 5 miles long, nearly parallel with the coast, and is from 1 to 24 miles wide. The highest peak has an altitude of 891 feet. Lobos rock, 20 feet high, lies half a mile off the south end of the island, and a reef, with one fathom water on it, extends a mile farther to the southward, leaving a clear and safe channel of 5 and 6 fathoms, about a mile wide, between the island and the mainland. Rocks above water e.ttend about a mile northward from the north end of the island. There is excellent anchorage for small vessels under the south end of San Marcos island. Fresh-water may be obtained. An excellent quality of gypsum is found here in large quantities. In the viuiuity of San Marcos island is a pearl fishery which' in former times was fished v.'ith cniisiderable success. Opposite the island, or in the vicinity of cape San Marcos (which cape is in latitude about 27° 28), and at the distance of two leagues from the coast, are what remains of the mission of San Ignatio, established in the year 1725. San Lucas Cove. — The entrance to San Lucas cove lies nearly 6 miles W. by S. from the northern' end of San Marcos island. It affords excellent anchorage in all winds for vessels drawing 7 or 8 feet. Tortuga JTsiand. — About 14 miles N.E. by N. from the north end of San Marcos island, is the highest peak of Tortaga. This island is about 2 miles long, east and west, and its highest peak is 1216 feet. Santa Aeueda Point lies N.W. by W. ^ W.' 8 miles from the notth end of San Marcos island. It rs low, with a" small rock 10 feet above water, lying half a mile northward of it. Santa Maria cove is distant about lO.V miles N.W. f N. from this point.' There are several cations along the ccrast, known as Providencia, Purgatorio, Sole- dad, and Santa Rosalia, and extensive copper-mines at each one a few miles from the coast. Santa Maria cove affords shelter in north-west winds, but is open to the south- easters, Purgatorio'.: — This port is in lat. 27° 23', and is distant about 20 miles S.W. by W. from Tortuga island. It is an open roadstead, and in winter, which is the best season fo visit it, v'esse'ls anchor in about & fathoms water, bottom of coarse sand. There ai-e no inhabitants, the port being simply a depot for the copper ore which is extracted in great abundance from the copper mines already alluded to. Water is the only commodity obtainable here, but it is necessary to search for it about 6 miles in th« interior, T:2r 148' GULF OF CALIFORNIA. Santa Xnez Point, 2 miles southward of Chivato point, is like the latter low and Bandy. About 2 miles distant from it is the largest of a small group called the Santa Inez islands. These islands- extend about 2 miles, nearly north and south. They are surrounded by shoals and sunken rocks, leaving a narrow but safe passage between them and Santa Inez point, where a ship may anchor and find shelter in north-west winds. Southward of this group of islands is the bay of Santa Inez. iaui.x:ax: or concepcion bav. — The entrance to this extensive bay, in about lat. 26° 53', long. 111° 50', is between Gallita and Concepcion points, and is rather less than 2 miles in width; it faces the north. In nearly midway of the entrance points are some rocks with deep water close to them ; on account of which care is required when running in. The bay extends south-east about 22 miles and varies in width from 2 to 6 miles. There are numerous small islands scattered over its sui'face, and several small harbours where vessels may anchor sheltered from every wind. Near the bottom of the bay, on the west side, is a remarkable well of fresh-water, which rises and falls with the tide.- ^ui'ege. — The anchorage off Mulege is about 10 miles southward from Santa Inez point, and a little to the northward of Sombrerito rock ; it is in 9 or 10 fathoms, half a mile from the beach. Sombrerito rock, which is 119 feet high, is at the northern entrance of the small Rio Santa Rosalia, on the banks of which, 2 miles from the sea, is the village of Mulege. Behind Sombrerito a short distance is a high hill of a I'eddish colour, known as Colorado mountain, 8B6 feet high. The entrance to the river is narrow and shallow, with several rocks in the channel covered at high water. There are never more than 9 feet at the mouth at high water. The tide rises 5 feet. In standing in for the anchorage off Mulege, do not bring Sombrerito to the west- ward of S.W., as there is much* foul ground between that rock and Gallita point. Mulege contains from 800 to 1000 inhabitants. Wood, water, and excellent fresh beef may be obtained at all times, and several varieties of vegetables and fruits in their season. There are several fine gardens on the banks of the river, and a great deal of enterprise is shown by the inhabitants. In reference to Santa Rosalia de Mulege, Lieutenant Hardy R.N., 1826, says : — " Being abreast Sombrerito, with the wind easterly, we bore up, and stood directly for the coast, with our head about a quarter of a point to the southward of that hill, in order to avoid a reef of rocks that runs off from it for some distance. When within 150 yards from the shore, Sombrerito then bearing off us N.N.W., and being in-shore of the reef, we hauled up, and stood for the centre of the hill, till within 35 yards of it, when we dropped our anchor, and ran out warps to the shore on both sides of us, to prevent the vessel from either drifting or swinging, for which there is no room. The water on the bar is so shallow, that we touched twice in going over it ; but as it was composed of only soft sand, the vessel received no injury, although it blew fresh from the eastward, with a heavy swell on the shore. In the situation where we ultimately moored, there are 3 fathon.s close by the hill, and it is well sheltered front wind and sea. MULEGE OR CONCEPCION BAY. 149 There is a small rivutet here, extending above the mission, which is at the distance of 2 leagues from the coast. From the sea, the hill of Sombrerito hides all appearance of the ravine ; but from the shore, the date, olive, and peach-trees, as well as planta- tions of vines and maize, pi'esent a cheerful show of verdure by no means common in Lower California. About the distance of a league from the mouth of the rivulet, the water is fresh, and I took advantage of it to refill our empty caskSo"* The mission of Santa Rosalia de Mulege was established in the year 1700 by the Marquis de Villa Puente, as it is supposed, and its distance from Loreto is about 45 leagues. It produces wine, spirits, and soap, which are exported chiefly from the capital ; besides grapes, dates, figs, and olives, all of good quality. These form the principal branches of its commerce. About 6 or 8 leagues from Mulege, at some distance from the shore side, is the mission of La Madalena, established about the same period as the former ; but by whom is not known. Its productions are the same as those of Mulege ; but the quality of the spirits which are ruade from the mezcal, growing wild about the moun- tains in its neighbourhood, is said to be the best of any made in Lower California. Its population is about equal to that of Loreto. From Concepcion point to Santa Teresa point the trend of the coast is about S.E. by E. 20 miles. The latter point is low and rocky, with many outlying rocks in its vicinity. Thence to Pulpito point the coast tx'ends south-easterly for 12 miles and forms a large open bay, known as San Nicolas bay. The land about this bay is low, the coast range being farther inland than to the southward. Abreast this bay and distant 6 miles N. by W. from Pulpito point is the small island of Ildefouso, 387 feet high, a mere barren rock, Pulpito Point, so called from its imagined resemblance to a pulpit, is a bold headland 470 feet high, and when first seen from the southward appears like an island, the land connecting with the coast-range being low. To the southward of this point is an ex- cellent anchorage, in 5 or 6 fathoms, half a mile from the beach, where a ship is well sheltered fi-om north-west winds. Mangle Point, about 15 miles S.S.E. ^ E. from Pulpito point, is a moderately high blufi", with cliffs of variegated colour, 200 to 300 feet high, to the northward. Between these two headlands are several bays, the largest of which is San Basilio, a few miles to * It appears from the following that Lieut. Hardy experienced some difficulty in leaving the harbour of tbe mission of Mulege " Not having been successful in ryy search for divers, I determined to proceed to sea. The wind was still dead upon the shore ; and as it was not possible to attempt taking the vessel out through the channel^ without her being inevitably driven on to the beach, I sent the boat ahead with a rope, and we succeeded in towing the Bruja tliroagh the midst of the rocks, which were perfecdy distinguishable at intervals by the heave and fall of the waves, which enabled us to avoid them. Having got fairly outside of them, we clapped on sail, shgiped our course along shore, and iij two hours time went through the passage formed on the left by the low point of Santa Inez, and on the right by the island named after the same saint, carrying 4 and 5 fathoms •water. Having doubled the point, we carne to anchor on the south-west side of the island of San Marcos, round which I had been given to understand pearls had been formerly fished. We found, however, only a few unproductive shells. On this island there are numbers of wild goats, and I sent the captain and a part of the crew to hunt them." This part of the Gulf of California is so rarely visited that it is but little known. 160 GULF OF CALIFORNIA. the southward of Pulpito point, and between it and Basilic point. Aboyt \^\ miles northward of Mangle point is Mercenarios point, a rocky cliff of dark sandstone, sur- mounted by a red cone, 519 feet high, Abo.ve this latter point the coast recedes, forming, with Basilio point, a small open bay known as San Juanico cove. There ax*e several rocks above and under water in this bay, and it should be used with great caution. Sau Basilio point is a low rocky cliff, about 50 feet high, formed of red sandstone. To the southward of Mangle point is a good anchorage iu a north- west Avi.nd. The only dangers to be apprehended are some low rocks, 2 feet above high water, at about 2 miles south-east from the point. In standing in for this anchorage, it is better to pass close to the point, where is plenty of water and no hidden danger. Coronados Island, the centre of which bears S.E. | S., distant 10 miJes, from Mangle point, is of small extent, rising to an altitude of 928 feet. A low sand-spit extends off some distance from its south-west side, leaving bul a narrow channej between the island and the mainland. It is only safe for small vessels. Northward of this sand-spit is an excellent anchorage in a south-caster. The shore between Mangle point and Coronados island is bold, and immediately beliiud it the land is ISOjO to 2000 feet high. Lorcto. — This id a small village situated in about lat. 2fi°; it is distant 5 or G miles southward from Coronados island. Above Loreto the coast sweeps to the northward and eastward 3i miles to^the low sandy point of Terra Firma. In this bay there is an excellent anchorage sheltered from every wind except from the northward and eastward. In good weather tlie best anchorage is off Loreto, iu 8 or 9 fathoms, half a mile from the beach. In standing in from the N.E. bring the church :'.ud Sugar Loaf peak in range, and anchor as directed above. Loreto contains about 15U inhabitants. There are two or three fine g/irdens, where oranges, figs, dates, &c., and in their season, vegetables, are raised. Fresh beef, ■wood and water may be obtained at all seasons. (1871). In former days Loreto was a place of considerable trade, but this was'mauy years ago ; it is now in a state of decay. It was founded in the year 1698 by Don Juan Caballero y Osis, who wrote a long account of it, and considered its locality as one of great importance, and subsequently it bficaine the capital of Lower Californju, The anchorage is open to winds from North, N.E. and S.E., and when these prev{j,il jvith any strength, so heavy a sea is sent in, that it is rendered by no meajis safe fpr a vessel not well found in ground tackle. Carmen island affords shelter from eastward, and the mainland from westward. The following description of Loreto was written in 182(5 by Lieutenant Hardy, R.N. : — ** Loreto stands in a valley of about 2000 or 3000 feet wide, surrounded by wild and sterile mountains, of which that called La Giganta is the highest and least picturcscjue.- ^here are tivo gardens iu the place in which the vine, peach, fig. miiuce £^nd flat§ • This luouiitaiu is estimated to I e HTM feet lii<:;li. It is of volcanic origin, as is all the rest of the cl;ain wliicli runs through the Cuiifomian peninsula. Face page 251 1"* 20 26 LONDON Jajnes Imrav * Son. ^ CARMEN ISLAND. 151 are cultivated. A considerable quantity of wiue is annually made, notwithstanding the fruit is common property to all the inhabitants. Peaches and pears are dried as well as figs ; the dat«s are preserved ; and these fruits are afterwards exchanged for wheat and Indian coru, brought to the mission iu small schooners from the port of Guaymas. The hills which surround tlie town are chiefly composed of primitive rock, granite, and hard sand-stone, all intermingled, with scarcely any appearance ©f soil upon them. They are thus capable cf absorbing but little moisture ; and during the heavy rains, which happily do not occur more frequently than once in 5 or 6 years, the rush of water through every part of the town, as it comes down the ravine, is so great, that instances have been known of some of the houses having been actually carried away. Although the natives are perfectly sensible .of their perilous situation in ce^nsequence of these floods, the love of their dwellings is so great as to extinguish ixli fear for the future, and all desire to change their residence.. The inhabitants of Loreto are of a dingy, opaque, olive-green, which shows that there is no friendly mixture in the blood of the Spaniard and the india^u ; or it may be that by degrees they are returning to the colour of the aborigines. They appear to be, the same squalid, flabby, mixed race^ which is observed in almost every part of the Mexican coasts." Funta Coyote, about 11 miles southward from Loreto village, forms the eastern side of a small bay, known as Puerto Escondido, a perfectly secure harbour for small vessels in all weathers. Just above Puuta Coyote is another small bay, named Chuenque. From Puuta Coyote the coast trends easterly and forms an open bay in which there are many rocks above and under water. OS" the easternmost poiut of this bay several detached rocks lie to the northward and westward. Eastward of this bay is a pro- minent poiut, off which are several detached rocks lying to the northward and westward; three of these, 70 to 80 feet high, and pinnacle-shaped, are known as Los Candeleros. CAEiSErj isisANn. — About 4 miles eastward of Punta Coyote is the southern extremity x)f Carmen ishmd, situated in about iat. 25° 47' 30". This island is lU miles in length N.N.E, and S.S.W., and its breadth gradually increases until it becoiites 5^- miles witie near its northern end. It is of volcanic origin and has a range of peaks its ^nl^e length, from 400 to 1500 feet high. Its shores are steep, there being a depth of 7 to 10 fathoms at a very moderate oiling, which increases to 40 fa- thoms at about a mile froiu the clifi's. Salinas Bay, ou the eastern side of Ciiriiiea island, near its northern end, is a fine har- bour, in whieh protection niay be obtained in all winds except those from the south-east. The best uu«horage is in 5 or 6 fathoms, one mile south of the white house with a cupola, at the head of the bay. A salt-mine is situated at the head and about half a mile from the beach. The geographical position of the head of this bay, according to the Admiralty chart No. 2348 (1879), is lat. 25° 69' 84", long. 111° 4'. Moro point, known also as Puntji de Perico from its supposed resemblance to a parrot's beak, forms the eastern limit of the bay ; it is a sharp, rocky cliff, surmounted by a peak of reddish colour, 4G0 feet high ; close to the point is a round detached rock, southward of which, distant one cable, lies a dangerous sunken roek. tobos point, the northern extreme of Carmen island, is a moderately high rocky point surrounded by detached rocks. 152 GULF OF CALIFORNIA. Between Lobos aucl Tintorera points is a small open bay known as Puerto de la Lancha, in which protection may be obtained from southerly winds. A small low sand islet, named Cholla, lies off the north-western end of Carmen island and near to it. Southward of this islet is a small bay known as Puerto Ballandra. Banzante Island. — About midway between the south end of Carmen island and the mainland is the island of Danzante. It is 3^ miles long, nearly parallel with the coast ; in form it is slightly crescent-shaped, very narrow, and 100 to 450 feet in height. There is a clear passage nearly a mile wide between it and Carmen island. San niarcial Point, a moderately high rocky clitl', surmounted by a peak 500 feet high, is distant about 25 miles S.E. i E. from Puata Coyote. The intervening coast is of the same general character as that to the southward, rising rapidly from the sea to a height of 1000 to 2000 feet. San Marcial rock lies about one mile N. by E. from San Marcial point, and is sur- rounded by reefs and shoals; it is of small extent and 25 feet high, Tliere is a boat- passage between it and the point. Three miles westward of San Marcial point is the small bay of Agna Verde. Tliere is good anchorage here in ordinary weather, and fresh-water may be obtained from the rancho near the beach. Distant 3.V miles above this is San Cosme point, a rocky cliif about 225 feet high. The small rocks San Cosmo and San Damien, the former 75 feet high and the latter 45 feet, lie about a mile to the northward of San Cosme point. About 7^ miles N.N.W. ^ W. from San Cosme point is a small white rock, 80 feet high, lying about 3 miles from the mainland. Southward of San Marcial point is the small bay of San Marte, where a vessel may find anchorage in good weather. There are 10 to 12 fathoms water within a third of a mile from the small sand-beach at the bottom of the bay. A dangerous reef extends off about a mile south-east of the point, on which the sea breaks in nearly all weathers. Santa Cataiina Island. — The south end of Santa Catalina island bears N.E. by E. I- E. about 15 miles from San Marcial point. It is between 7 and 8 miles long, north and south, and from GOO to 1500 feet high. The approximate geographical position of its north extremity is lat. 25° 42', long. 110° 44'. iMContserrate Island.- — The southendof Montserrate island bears N. by W. jW. 8 miles from point San Marcial, and about the same distance from the mainlaiu]. It is about 4 miles long, parallel with the coast, and 1 or 2 miles wide. It is 200 to 700 feet high and presents a more inviting appearance than Santa Catalina. It is, however, like all the other islands hereabout, of volcanic origin and perfectly barren. Three miles north of the island are two low rocky islets, known as Las Galeras, northward of which is a dangerous rock only one foot above high water. From San Marcial point the coast trends S.E. ^ S. 33 miles to Nopolo point, abreast which, distant 2f miles, is the northern extremity of San Josef island. About midway between the above points, in lat. 25° 16?r'(? 14'), is an isolated rock, 55 feet high, about amileoffthe shore, known as Black rock. Other rocks lie off the coast to the southward of the Black rock : one of these, the Habana, DO feet high, is situated in lat. 25° 7'. xvopoioFoint is a rocky cliff witli a rugged peak 1650 feet high immediately behind Face page 157- SAW JOSl mh IIAEO MJ Nautic Milt o L 2 3 4 £> lo Cables Sounding's ;r. Fathoms Lone-, 109 °37'52'W LONDON- Jajne^ Iiaray A" So %\ SAN JOSEF ISLAND. 153 it. From this poiut to San Everisto point, a distance of G| miles S.E. ^ E., the lanil is high and precipitous. About 2 miles southward of San Everisto point, a low sandy point makes out, south- ward of which is good anchorage in 5 or G fathoms, half a mile from the beach. laechudo Head, 12 miles S.E. by S. from San Everisto point, is a bold perpendicular cliff of variegated colour, about 200 feet high, surmounted by a dome-shaped hill 750 feet in height. Behind this hill, and a short distance inland, is mount Mechudo 3000 feet in height, and the highest laud in this vicinity. SAN JOSEF ISLAND. — The south end of San Josef island bears N.E. ^ E. about 6 miles from Mechudo head. It extends nearly 18 miles nearly parallel with the coast, N.W. I W. and S.E. ^ E., and is from 2 to 6 miles wide, the northern end being narrowest and terminating in a narrow, sharp point. It is rather higher than Espiritu Santo, several of its peaks having an altitude of over 2000 feet, and is of volcanic origin. It is separated from the mainland by a deep channel 3 to 5 miles wide, except abreast of Nopolo point, where it is 2f miles in width. Here, a low sand spit makes off from the island toward Nopolo point. Amortajada Bay.— There is a good anchorage in Amortajada bay, on the south-west side of San Josef island, in 7 or 8 fathoms, where a ship is sheltered from every wind, particularly the dreaded " cordonazos " or south-easterly gales. In the centre of the bay, about 1^ miles off the entrance of San Jose river, is an islet, named Caijo, with a dangerous reef extending off its northern extremity about a quarter of a mile. Fresh- water may be obtained here. The position of the north-west point of the bay is lat. 21° 54' 30", long. 110° 85' 40". (See the Admiralty Chart No. 2248, edition 1879), San Francisco Island. — Several rocks and islets lie off the south-western end of San Josef island, the largest of which, San Francisco, lies nearly 2 miles south of it. This is 600 feet high, nearly 2 miles long, and about one mile wide. The passage between it and San Josef is dangerous, as it contains many rocks above and under water. There are two dangerous rocks, about 5 feet high, known as Seal rocks, lying off San Francisco islet, about 3^ miles from the mainland, with the following bearings : — north-western end of San Francisco, East nearly 2 miles ; Salinas point, N.W. by N, 5^ miles. In using the channel between San Josef island and the mainland at night or in thick weather it is better to keep the mainland close aboard, as there are no known dangers on that side. Las Animas. — About 9 miles E. by N. ^ N. from the north end of San Josef island are the rocky islets of Las Animas, about 90 feet in height. There is a deep passage between them and San Josef. San Diego Island lies N. f W. 5^ miles from the north end of San Josef. It is nearly a mile long, N.E. and S.W., and its highest point is 722 feet. A reef makes off about a mile from its south-western point, ending in a small rock awash. There is another reef If miles south of the highest peak, with from 4 to 5 fathoms on it. A reef also makes off about half a mile from the northern end of San Josef, leaving a clear passage, about 3 miles wide, between that island and San Diego ; but it should be used with caution, as there may be other rocks in it which the surveyors were unable to find. Santa Cruz Island lies 4^ miles N. by W. from San Diego island. It is about loi GULF OF CALIFORNIA. 3 miles long north and south, and about 2 miles ^vide. It is loOO feet high, and extremely barren and rocky- ESPiRiTu SANTO ISI.AKS, clout 20 miles S.E. by S. from the south end of San Josef island, lies in the entrance to the bay of La Paz, and is separated from the mainland by San Lorenzo channel, which is 3^ miles wide. The island is d miles long, N.N.W. and S.S.E., and from 2 to 4 miles wide. It is of volcanic origin, and from 200 to 1200 feet high. A remarkable red cone, 197 feet high, near tlie south-westefn end (Dis- pensa point) of the island, is an excellent land-mark in navigatiiig San Lorenzo channel. The approximate geographical position of Lupona point, the southernmost point of Espiritu Santo, according to the Admiralty Chart No. 224.8, .edition 1879, is lat. 24° 24' 13", long. 110° 17'. Several dotaclied rocks and islets lie oft' the western side of Espiritu Santo island, the largest of which, Ballena (or Gallo), is about a mile northward of Ballena bay. There are also two or three oft' the northern end of tlie island, known as Los Islotes. At the south-west end of Espiritu Santo island there is a little bay named San Gabriel, in which vessels may anchor in about 10 fathoms, and obtain shelter from northerly and easterly wind?, bat they must not go fai" in because the depth suddenly decreases to 3^ and 2 fathoms, whence to the shore it is very shallow. In the middle of this shallow part there is a ledge of I'ocks, which extends out 4 cables from the beach. The western limit of the bay is known ns Prieta pxjiiit. At about a mile northward of Gabriel bay, and on the same side (tiie west) of Espiritu Santo island, is an anchorage in what is known as port Ballena. It consists of an open bay fronted by two small islets, named Gallo * 5i rk. 3 rfc * LONDON, James ImTcLT i: Soc LA PA/^ BAk', 155 Directions. — To enter tl^echauuelfrom the southward candeastwarJ, stucr W.N.V/. ^W. for the red mound on Espiritu Santo island, giving Coyote point a berth of half a mile. When Lobos point bears N. by W. and Sau Lorenzo point S.W. by S. steer W. by S. until you opeij Lobos rocks beyond Diablo point ; then the j-ed jiiound will bear N.W. h W. and you will be clear of all dar.gerg. There is another channel with 4 fathoms water near Espiritu Santo island, between it and San Lorenzo reef. Arranco Cabello point is low and sandy, slopi^jg back gradually to mountains lUOO feet high. San Lorenzo and Diablo points are moderately high bluifs. i^A PAZ BAY. — The bay of La Paz, the largest on the eastern side of Lo^ei" California, is nearly 40 miles deep and J 6 to 2Q miles wide. Tlie western side, from Mechudo head to the bottom of the bay, presents a bold shove with prcicipitous clitfs ov high mountain-slopes, affording no anchorage or shelter for ships ; thence 16 miles to El Mogote point, the coast is low and sandy, with shoal waiter making off one or twQ miles. At about 5 miles within the bay on its east side is the harbour of Pichilinque ; and farther on, near its head, is the harbour pf La Paz.-- A pilot's assistance should be obtained to enter either of these haybours. Pichilinque Harbour.— The entrance to Pichilinque harbour lies about 4 miles soutl> of Diablo point. Colorado point, to tl^e soutl miks northward from point La Poza is a grove of palms situated quite near the bea'/h. Point iVEarquis , in latitude 23" 56' 30", is low and rocky, forming a sharp projecting point on the coast-line, and is the first rocky formation seen after leaving Rio Todos Santos. El conejo Point, in latitude 24° 22', 47 miles N.W. by W. f W. from point Marquis, is on the eastern side of the boat passage, which leads into Santa Marina bay. The east extremity of the low sand island,' named Cresciente, about 10 miles in extent E.N.E. and W.S.W., forms the western side of this boat passage. El Conejo point is low and rocky, backed by a dome-shaped mound about 50^ feet high. The coast between Lobos and El Conejo points, is low, sandy, and barren, with table- lands, 100 to 200 feet high, a mile or two back, rising gradually to an altitude of 2000 feet 20 miles inland. A ship may anchor off any part of this coast in fine weather, in 8 or 10 fathoms, a mile or two from the beach. The soundings are regular, shoaling gradually toward the beach. SANTA IKEAKGARITA isz.AiaD. — From Santa Marina point, the south-west end of M' 162 LOWER CALIFORNIA. Cresciente island, to cape Tosco, the southern extremity of Margarita island, the distance is nearly 4 miles and bearing S.S.W. i W. Between these points is a passage into Magdalena bay, named Rehusa channel ; it is, however, too shoal and intricate for anything but boat-navigation. Margarita island is about 20 miles in extent, W.N.W. and E.S.E., and 2 to 4 miles in width ; it is high and barren., and of volcanic origin. It presents a bold rocky face its entire length, except about midway where the Coast falls away somewhat, forming an open bay called Pequena ; here the land is low and sandy, ]\Iount Margarita, near the southern end of the island, is 2000 feet high. The two remarkable peaks just south of Pequena bay, about 1000 feet high, are known as the Sisters. On the southeni end of the island there is a spring of excellent water. Cape Tosco is a bold rocky point, with a reef of rocks extending off S.S.E. about 3 cables, over which the sea breaks constantly. Cape Kedondo is a round rocky headland, nearly 100 feet high, the land rising rapidly behind it to a height of 500 or GOO feet. A reef extends off to the north- west about B cables from the cape. 3XIAOSAI.SUA BAV. — This cxtcnsive inlet lies between longitudes 111'' 30' and 112° 15'. It is protected from the sea in a south-westerly direction by the large island of Margarita, and has soundings over nearly the whole of its extent of 20 to 10 and 4 fathoms. Its principal entrance is at the west end of this island, thi'ough a channel 3 miles broad, and here the width of the bay (from the entrance to the main land opposite it) isabout 12 miles: consequently there is ample room for the accommoda- tion of almost any number of vessels. Entrada point, the western point of the entrance, is a dome-shaped hill about 200 feet high, connected with the mainland by a narrow strip of sand and rock but a few feet above high-water. There are several out- lying rocks from 10 to 12 feet high quite near it, and a reef making off south-east about 8 cables, over which the sea generally breaks. The channel between the reefs off cape Redondo and Entrada point is at least 2 miles wide and free from all dangers. The tide runs with considerable force through this channel, at the rate of one to two knots per hour. Cape San Lazaro, which may be considered the north-western bound- ary of the bay, is 1300 feet high. Magdalena bay was surveyed in IBnT by Captain Du Petit Thenars of the French Navy, and in 1839 by Captain Sir Edward Belcher, R.N. To the chart of the latter officer, published by the Admiralty (No. 1930), we must refer our readers, as a written description of the bay will necessarily convey a very inadequate idea of the advantages it possesses. The shore on both sides of the bay is lined with rocks, so that it is recommended ta keep as near the middle as possible, where will be found 12 to 18 fathoms water, rocky bottom, with shells. When within, there is a similar depth on sand and shells. At the head of the bay, in its north-west corner, are numerous sand-banks having between them a channel 5 fathoms deep, which runs up the coa'^t past cape San Lazaro as far north as lat. 25° 30' or even farther ; northward of the cape this channel is divided from the sea by a very narrow belt of low land covered with sand hills. The land forming the north side of the bay is so little above the sea level that when off the north-west end of Santa Margarita island it cannot be seen from the deck. Fan p aye 16 Z. ? 'S ,K Jl J ^3 .- 4 ' ' . %: ai'-v 2| ,>^ Lat, 24° 37' 30' N. „« \ .^ ,i\ -4 : ^ — ^^\^/ " I — J 4i 7 tfi 4*' 6i / 4| 4i 4,- 5| 5l ^4 4 4 4| 4i 4^ .' '' 4 3i 4 4| 4i 4| , 3| CaUtorn^ fj^X ■... ff 3 *? 42 5| 9 -U iJ S 8 ' -" iS Marcy J^ J4 a Channel j, i3 J2 iO 15 14 5s 6 "4 5 ^''^^'"'•'"'>g ^ / Ilorse - shoe J 2 if -J ** ,> -« o &42ey j IT \ ^ i I MAGDALENA BAY. 1G3 Captain Du Peiit Thouars says : — '• The high land of cape San Lazaro affords an excellent mark for raaldug the land, as it can be seen at the distance of 10 or 12 leagues. The entrance of the bay is 3 miles wide and very brief. It presents no difficulty, if only care be taken not to go too near the south point, because of a detached rock, on which the sea breaks, situated about half a mile from the point. In tacking, when within the hay, care must be taken to avoid the Venus bank ; it is necessary also to keep sufficiently far from the low land to the East and N.E. Anchorage can be obtained in the north-west part of the bay, or in the south part of it, according to the prevailing winds. The holding,' ground is moderately good. The hay offers no resources, as there are neither houses, wood, nor water. Outside the bay, the current runs southward, with a strength of about one-third of a mile per hour. The tides are regular, and occasion very strong currents at the entrance of the bay. It is high water, on the days of full and change of the moon, at 7h. 37m. The tide rises about Q} feet. The following remarks on making Magdalena bay are by Captain W. H. Parker, P.M.S.S. Co., 1871 : — In entering this bay keep over towards point Entrafla. The best anchorage, at all seasons, is probably abreast the spot marked " Obs'y " on Belcher's chart, about 7 miles N.W. from point Entrada. To reach it you have only to follow the land around from the point, at a distance of three-quarters of a mile and anchor in 10 or 12 fathoms water. During the prevalence of northerly winds the best anchorage is, perhaps, at the head of the bay. It is here I have generally seen whalers at anchor. To reach it, run about N. by E. J E. from the entrance to the harbour, and anchor in 7 or 8 fa- thoms ; observing not to bring point Entrada to the eastward of S. by W. J W. This will insure your being clear of Dupetit spit. The anchorage on the eastern side of the bay, towards Mangrove island, is more exposed to the windrt. At present, when we have passengers for Magdalena bay, they are met by a boat off point Entrada. It is not yet determined where the anchorage for our steamers will be when we enter the bay. This v/ill depend upon the permanent location of the colony. There is not the least difficulty in entering the bay by day or night. You will, of course, keep the lead going." Sir Edward Belcher, R.N., observes, " I was fully prepared to have found, as the name imported, an extensive bay ; but on entering the heads, which are about 2 miles asunder, no land could be discerned from the deck, from N.W. to N.E. or East ; and even after entering, it was quite a problem in this new sea where to seek for anchorage, our depths at first, even near the shore, ranged from 17 to 30 fathoms. However, as the prevailing winds appeared to be westerly, I determined on beating to windward, in which it eventually proved I was correct. About 4h. p.m., we reached a very con- venient berth in 10 fathoms, with a very sheltered position for our observatoiy. Pre- paj-ations were immediately made for the examination of this extensive sea, or what I shall in future term the gulf of Magdalena. It is probable that this part of the coast formerly presented three detached islands m2 1G4 LOITER CALIFORNIA. ■?iz., San Lazaro range, Magdalena range, and Margarita range, with one unnamed sand island, and numerous sand islets. It is not improbable that its estuaries meet those from La Paz, forming this portion of southern California into an immense archipelago. The first part of our expedition led us up the northern branch of vihai held out some prospect of a fresh-water river, particularly as freciueut marks of cattle were noticed. In the prosecution of this part of our survey we noticed that the San Larazo range is- only connected by a very narrow belt of sand between the two bays, and that the summit of some sand-hills were covered in a most extraordinary nianner, by piles of fragile shells, which resembled those recently found in the gulf. The cliffs throughout the Gulf also abound in organic remains. Having explored the westernmost estuary, about 17 miles northward of our observa- tory, until no end appeared to its intricacies, I resolved on attempting a second, which afforded a wider entrance, and afforded deeper water. This was exan^ined about 4 miles beyond the last, and it still offered ample scope for employment, the advanced boat being at that moment in 4 Mlioms, and distant heads in view ; but considei-ing that sufficient had been done to show that no h-ope offered of reaching fresh-water, and that the still unexplored state of the gulf would engross all our spare time, I determined on adhering to its main outlines, which eventually offered so many intricacies as almost to baffle our patience. One circumstance connected with the examination of the second estuary afforded vei'y strong proof that no fresh-water streams were in the vicinity. It was the fact of finding near our ad\anced position many large specimens of the asteria medusa, or euryale, an asteria seldom found but in pure, and generally deep salt water. At least twenty were taken by the dredge. By the 9th of November we had reached the eastern end of the fii st gulf, when the ship was moved into the second, the channel or strait connecting them being not more than a quarter of a mile wide. I had been very sauguine in my expectations that we should have discovered a safe channel out by the eastern end of the island of Margarita ;■ but until satisfied upon that point I took the StatUner their oil, — or to pass a few days in fishing or catcliiug turtle. It is usually called ' Turtle bay,' by them. Wood may be procured here, in case of extreme necessity, by searching for low green bushes in the level land about the shores ; the roots are found running near the top of the ground and are 8 or 10 feet long and often 6 inches through ; they burn readily, and produce the required heat. At the time sailing vessels were plying between Panama and San Francisco, occasionally some of the number, in actual distress for many of the necessary articles of provisions, put into port San Bartolome, hoping to havp their wants, to some extent relieved. One vessel is said to have anchored here with nearly all her ci'ew down with the scurvy, and several of them died. Numbers of hapless adventurers have found a final resting-place along the shore of the inner bay, and on an islet that breaks the ocean swell in front of the harbour. Here are found grave-boards, some rudely carved. CERROS ISLAND. 109 giving the date of interment ; other graves are only marked by rough stones, and countless numbers of sea-bii'ds nightly cover the groimd above them." About 6 miles north-westward from Kelp point is Breaker point, about 20 feet high, off which are many detached rocks, over which the sea breaks heavily. Thence the coast trends north-westerly about 10 miles to San Eugeuio point. Point San Eugenio is the extreme west point of the loftj'^ promontory which forms the southern side of the great bay of Sebastian Yiscaino ; its approximate geographical position is lat. 27° 50' 30", long. 115° 3'. Point San Eugenie is low, dark and rocky, pi-ojecting toward Natividad island ; from it a I'eef extends a quarter of ^ mile W.S.W., and another somewhat longer of rocks above water in a N. by E. direction. A small rock, covered with guano, and known as Chester islet, lies about a mile northward of the point ; another smaller rock is situated between it and the point. CSRROS ISLAND. — From point San Eugcnio to Morro Redondo, the southernmost point of Cedros, or Cerros island, the distance is 12^ njiles, and direction N.W. | N. Morro Redondo is a rocky cliff about 30 feet high, with many outlying rocks, and a round hill or cone of moderate elevation just behind it ; its approximate geographical position is lat. 28° 2', long. 115" 9'. There is good iinchorage northward of Morro Redondo, in from 7 to 10 fathoms, sandy bottom, half a mile from the beach. About 5 miles northward of Morro Redondo on the east side of the island, is an excellent watering place. It may be recognised by a patch of tall rank grass behind a sand-beach about 250 feet in length, and the only one in that vicinity. It is about a mile southward of the easternmost point of the island, and the first arroyo to the southward. The depth at less than a mile from the island is about 40 fathoms, with the excep- tion that a bank of 5 to 10 fathoms extends 3 miles south from its south-east point in the direction of the west end of Natividad island, and to nearly the middle of the channel between them. Cedros island is 18 to 22 miles in length, N. by W. and S. by E., and 3 to 8 miles in width. It is a high, barren island, of volcanic origin, and evidently contains much mineral wealth. Occasionally in the valleys there are a few stunted bushes and a little coarse rank grass. The highest peak, near the southern partof the island, is 3955 feet high, and may be seen on a clear day 60 miles. In the Meicautile Marine Maijazine, Vol. for 1860, is the following account of Cerros island : — "Cerros is an island of mountains throughout its whole extent, being a mass of high, abrupt peaks, the highest of which is 2500 feet above the level of the sea, and may be distinctly seen, in clear weather, 60 miles. On a near approach, the sombre barren appearance of all brought to view is anything but inviting. Many of the southern slopes present a dark red hue, interspersed with high variegated cliffs, that give a little change to the otherwise dull scene. On landing, one is at once fully sensible of the extreme dry atmosphere prevailing; still there must be, occasionally, heavy rains, producing mountain torrents, which have cut their way through the sand and grave| bottoms that skirt the southern bases. These, however, are of rare occurrence, for 170 LOWER CALIFORNIA. whalers best acquainted with the ishind, who have been living temporarily there, or along the neighbouring coast for the last 5 or 6 years, have never known it to be visited by anything more than light rains, and those at long intervals. On the N.E. side, at about 3 miles from the extreme north end, a low sandy point makes out ; southward of this is good anchorage during the prevailing coast winds. In a ravine near it, is a small stream of fresh water; and likewise in several of the valleys leading from the shore line, to the southward, water m:iy be found within a mile of the beach. At one of these places it is of excellent quality. The only practi- cable place, however, for a ship to obtain a large supply, is on the S.E.'side, where there is a spring running among rushes at the foot of a high peak close to the shore. The casks are filled by placing them within a few feet of the running stream, and con- ducting the water into them by means of a rough wooden spout, on the side of which are the words: — 'Whoever uses this will please to put it in its proper place, for the benefit of those who may come for water.' Anchorage may be had off this spring, within two cables of the shore, in 20 fiithoms of water; but a much better place for a ship to lie is 2 m'les farther south, off a low shingle beach — where it is not so deep, and the gusts that come down the mountains, when the wind is from the west, are not nearly so heavy as at the other anchorage. A vessel can always find shelter from the N.W. winds on the south side of the island, in depths varying from 6 to 25 fathoms ; these winds blow with the regularity of a 'trade,' from May to October, and the only precaution to be kept in mind in choosing an anchorage is to avoid fixed kelp. From October to May the winds are generally light and the weather delightful. Occasionally s strong 'norther,' or a light S.E. gale, blows the first part of the winter, and strong gales from the N.W. again set in about the 1st of May. It is said by those well versed in such things, that there is every indication of ex- tensive mineral deposits, in the shape of quartz rock and copper, scattered over many parts of Cerros island. Whether they really exist there remains to be proved." San Benito Islands. — Nearly 20 miles N.W. by W. from cape San Augustin, the south-western extremity of Cedros island, are the San Benito islands, a group of three small barren rocks, extending about 3 miles east and west, and one mile north and south. The westernmost is the largest ; it is a circular, flat-topped island, about 200 feet high, with a mound in the centre about G50 feet high. At its north-east end is a low point running out a quarter of a mile to the westward. The middle island is low, and about two-thirds of a mile long, east and west. There is a narrow passage filled with rocks between this and the western island. The eastern island is about a mile long, north and south, and has a peak on its northern end about 500 feet high. There is a boat passage between this and the middle island, a quarter to half a mile wide, with several rocks, some above water. The islands are surrounded with kelp and detached rocks. The geographical position of the summit of the largest (western) San Benito island, according to the observations of Com. Dewey, U.S.S. Narrnijansett, 187-1, is lat. 28°4l8' 8", long. 115° 3G' 10". There is anchorage south-east of the western island, in 12 fathoms, sandy bottom, SEBASTIAN VISCAINO BAY. 171 outside the kelp ; and a good landing on the north-east side of the same island on a shingle beach northward of a red rock. Two sharp pinnacle rocks, with only 6 feet water on them, are situated 1^^ miles W. by S. from the mound on the western island. They are about 80 feet apart N.E. and S.W. ; the southern one about 80 feet and the northern one 10 feet in length on top, and 2 to 4 feet wide. The sea breaks on them in all weathers. At 100 feet east of the rocks the depth is 12 fathoms, and no bottom at 20 fathoms at any other place around them at the same distance. Natividad Island. —From Morro Kedondo the eastern point of Natividad island bears S. by E. f E. 101 miles. There is a clear passage 8 miles in width between Cedros and Natividad islands, with 15 to 30 fathoms water (excepting the 5 to 10-fathom patch already alluded to). This passage is known as Kellet channel. Natividad island is about 4^ miles in length N.W. and S.E., and half a mile to a mile and a half in width, being widest at the south-eastern extremity. It is of moderate elevation, hilly, entirely barren, and surrounded with kelp. The highest part is near the western end, and is about 500 feet. This part is very rocky, having a reef runuin^ out, mostly under water, connecting it with an islet known as Maria rock. In fact, the channel is almost entirely surrounded by rocks above and under water. E.N.E. from the southern part of the island is a square flat-topped rock, about 25 feet high, connected with the island by a reef, upon which the sea breaks continually. Sail rock, 40 feet high, lies about 2 cables otf the southern point of the island ; oft" it a reef, on which the sea breaks occasionally, extends S. by W. half a mile. Dewey Channel, between Natividad island and the mainland, is 4 miles wide. On the Natividad side there is much foul ground. A 3-fathom shoal, having 9 and 10 fathoms around, lies about 1^ miles East from the south end of Natividad island. The sea breaks over this shoal only at long intervals in fine weather. A large field of kelp stretches off for several miles southward of point San Eugenio. In using this channel, keep about a mile and a half from the point, until the kelp' patch is passed, then steer parallel with the coast. SBBASTiAKT VISCAINO BAY. — At point San Eugenio, already described (page 169) the coast suddenly turns eastward and after continuing in that direction many miles, gradually curves northward and north-westward and forms with Cerros island the great bay of Sebastian Viscaino, the entrance to which, between Cerros island and the north- east coast of the mainland, is about 50 miles in width. The coast immediately eastward of point San Eugenio is rocky and mountainous, the mountains being near the shore. As the entrance to Scammon or Ojo de Lievre lagoon, about 40 miles eastward of the point, is approached, the coast gradually becomes lower and more sandy. The mouth of this lagoon is in about lat. 27° 54', long. 114° 16', it is recognised by white sand-bluffs on each side, 30 to 40 feet high. Extensive shoals extend oft" hereabout in a northerly direction, only 4 fathoms water being found 6 miles from the land. From the mouth of Scammon lagoon the coast, consisting of a low sand-beach, with numerous hillocks 10 to 30 feet high, trends N.E. by N. 15 miles to the entrance of the Black Warrior lagoon. Shoals make off for a long distance north-west of the 172 LOWER CALIFORNIA. eutrance of the lagoon, the depth at 5 miles from the land being only 4 fathoms, with heavy breakers within. Another lagoon, known as the Manuela or upper lagoon, lies a few miles farther northward, having its entrance about 4 miles southward of Lagoon head. i.agoon Head, in about lat. 28° 14', long. 114° 5', is a lofty headland; its highest peak is 474 feet above the sea, and visible at a distance of 30 or 40 miles in clear weather. When viewed from a distance of a few miles at sea it looks like an island, as the low laud inside it cannot be seen. From Lagoon head the coast turns abruptly to the eastward about 2 miles, sweeping gradually to the southward, and forming a small open bay, which affords good anchorage anywhere near the land, in o to 9 fathoms, sandy bottom. High land extends about 2 miles east to a point near the northern end of the upper lagoon; thence, to the eastward and southward, extensive plains and marshes stretch away to the great lagoons, high mountain-ranges being visible in the interior. The following description of the lagoons in Sebastian Viscaino bay is extracted from the Nautical Magazhye, 1860^ — "The coast of Lower California, from San Geronimo island to the great lagoon, trends S.E., presenting a nearly unbroken range of rugged mountains, scantily clothed with cedar trees, but in many places ban-en of all verdure; and, to judge by the appearance from seaward, unfit for human habitation. For about 30 miles the sierra closes on the sea, throwing out bold rocky promontories, offering no shelter for vessels, although promising deep water close in shore. Here and there long stretches of white sandy beach appear, on which the surf rolls heavily. Following the coast down to where Cerros island bears about S.W., a headland will be observed in the main land, known by the name of Lagoon head, from rising abruptly out of a low country which is passed after leaving the mountain ridges already mentioned. This headland is high and black like a hummock, but appears to have no other elevations inland from it. Immediately southward of this is a lagoon about 10 miles long by 7 broad, to which no name has yet been given. It was entered by whale-boats, and partially explored ; but there is not depth enough for a ship to pass over the bar, on which a heavy surf breaks in westerly winds. The land subsides again into a low marshy country from Lagoon head for about 12 miles, when, in following the coast to the S.E., the mouth of a second and larger lagoon is opened. This is about 15 njiles long by 8 wide, and has depth of water suflicient to float a ship ; but the bar is very dangerous. It is known as the San Domingo lagoon. Navigators will be very apt to mistake, this or the first one for the big or whaling lagoon (tliat named Ojo de Lievre); but care should be taken to pass by tivo entrances before standing in for the land. The whaler Black Warrior was lost at the mouth of this second lagoon, while attempting to enter, having mistaken it for the large one, which is still farther southward. On leaving Lagoon head, a ship may stand along at a distance of <> miles from the beach, keeping in about 7 fiithoms water. After passing the second lagoon, about 10 miles from the head, the outer breakers at the entrance of the big lagoon may be plainly seen, as well as those on the bar, stretching 4 or 5 miles seaward ; keeping inside of tliese the inner breakers will appie^r SEBASTIAN YISCAIXO BAY. 17J1 in shore, and the channel lies mid\yay between the two lines. This channel may be plainly seen, it opens gradually, shoaling until on the bar, which has 2 fathoms at low water and 3 at high water spring tides, and is from half a mile to 1 mile wide. The bar is about a quarter of a mile across, and when passed, the water rapidly deepens to 4, 5, and 6 fathoms. The entrance is then plainly visible, formed by two sandheads, about 30 feet in height. The deepest water is midway between the heads, after passing which the right hand shore should be kept aboard, and with the lead going there will be no difficulty in running into the lagoon. This lagoon (Ojo de Lievre) was first entered by Captain Scammon in the spring of 1856. While whaling in Magdalena bay, a Mexican informed him of it, but never having been there, he was unable to describe its situation, although he judged from the low character of the country and the receding of the mountains in that direction, that the lagoon mu^st be there. He accordingly set out on an exploriug expedition, and first struck the small or northern one, which with the next, he partially explored, and was three days getting down to the big one, the approach to which looked very dangerous- to a stranger. Having sounded the chauuel with his boats, he took his ship in. The explorations which have thus far been made lead to th-e supposition that these three lagoons were, at one time, a single body of water, and it is thought that, owing to the marshy character of the country, there mary still be, during the rainy season, communication by sloughs or branches ; but this is not known. The mountains, with their serrated peaks, traversing the Lower California peninsula, generally close with the coast, either within a few miles of the beach, or from jutting headl-ands washed by the waves of th« ocean.- The chain opposite to where the lagoon is, turns inland about iJO miles, opening a sort of amphitheatre, forming the bed of the lake, which is filled from the ocearr, and the only inlet or outlet to which, thus far discovered, is the entrance already described. A small space of rising land intervenes between the western border and the foothills of the mountains, which are wooded in a few places, but appear generally to be sterile and valueless. Around the borders of the lagoon are ranges of sand hills, extending in every direc- tion, being apparently the collection of ag«s, drifted in from the ocean. This feature gives to the vicinity an aspect somewhat similar to that of the ocean beach opposite San Francisco, but without the rocks and headlands. These sands are ever moving and changing, in consequence of being thus driven by the fierce ocean winds. A boat which was left for a few days near the southern border of the lagoon was completely filled with sand, and would, in another week, have been entirely hidden from sight by it. Of course no trees nor herbage of any kind exists there, nor can any kind of cultivation be carried on. Changes in the face of the country are going on constantly. Logs of redwood, S or 4 feet in diameter, are even found half covered over by sand, and sometimes several miles from the water. These are evidently of Oregon growth, and have either been thrown into their present position by the surf, in some tremen- dous storm, or being once lodged on the beach, the sands have encroached on the water, leaving the logs far inland in the course of time. Their presence is accounted for by currents setting down from the northward. Fresh-water and wood are very scarce, and should an unhappy wayfarer chance to get lost in these trackless wilds, starvation would be inevitable. Several instances of this are very well known. 17i LOWER CALIFORNIA. The lagoon from its entrance expands at once into a vast sheet of water. In every direction nothing is to be seen on the shore but scrub bushes and stunted grass. To the southward, a small lagoon, about 8 miles in extent, is connected with the larger one, and is navigable. It is known as fort Lagoon, but whales seldom go into it. The lagoon contains several islands, covered with stunted grass and weeds, with the ex- ception of two, which are supposed to contain guano, although this conclusion is not yet well established. The distance from the bar to the western border is between 30 and 40 miles, but counting the northern lagoons already described, and which are believed to have been at one time a portion of the main one, this body of water would be upwards of 70 miles in extent. The breadth is between 20 and 30 miles. In every part, except close to the shore, may be found from 2 to 5 fathoms, and good anchorage everywhere." Santa Rosalia Bay, about 20 miles northward of Lagoon head, affords good anchorage ■with northerly winds. The point forming the southern limit of the bay is low and dangerous, rocks and shoals making off from it at least a mile ; its approximate geographical position is lat. 28° 34', long. 114° 7'. A short distance northward of Rosalia point is a small bare rock about 40 feet high known as Elide island. There is a little guano on it, and it is covered with sea-fowl and seals. It lies about half a mile from the mainland, and there is an anchorage on its south-east side. From Rosalia point to Maria point, 22 miles N.W. f W., the coast is moderately low, with high ranges of hills a short distance back. It is a succession of points with shallow bays intervening. ivxaria Point is low and I'ocky, with sand-hills rising to a height of about 80 feet a quarter of a mile inland ; when seen from southward it appears as a dark low point, with a red cone (Cone point) above it. Its approximate geographical position is lat. 28° 54' 80", long. 114° 29'. riaya aiaria Bay. — This bay lies to the south-eastward of Maria point, between it and Bl.-ick point; it is about G miles in width and 2 miles in depth. lUack point is a low dark rock, backed by white sand a short distance inland. The land about the bay is low and sandy, and as barren as most of this coast. A hill, known as Station peak, 256 feet high, is situated near the head of the bay. There is good anchorage in 6 fathoms, about a mile from the beach, where a ship may iind~shelter from the northerly coast winds. It is high water, full and change, at yh. 20m.; springs rise 7 to 9 feet. Cone roint' i\ miles N.W. by W. ^ W. from Maria point, is a remarkable red cone 200 feet, high, with many detached and outlying rocks extending off about half a mile to the southward. When first seen from the northward it looks like an island. Falsa bay lies between Cone and Maria points. Blanco Point, 17^ miles north-westward of Cone point, is a perpendicular sand-cliff about 100 feet .high with the coast range just behind. The intervening coast is a succession of points and bays, one of which, Blanco bay, affords good anchorage with a northerly wind. In about lat. 29° 11' is a rock, 20 feet high, situated close to the shore. Canoas^Foint is about 24 miles W.N.W. from cape Blanco ; it is a perpendicular SAX GERONIMO ISLET, SiC. 175 sand-bluflf about 224 feet high. The coast between these points recedes about 5 miles, forming an extensive open bay, known as Canoas bay. San Antonio Point, in about lat. 29° 45', long. 115° 40', is distant about 35 miles W.N.W. from Canoas point. The intervening coast consists of sand-bluflfs, and is rather lower near San Antonio than at Canoas point. High table-lands rise imme- diately from the coast to a height of 1000 to 2000 feet. Sacramento Reef, on which the P.M.S.S. Co. steamer Sacramento, was lost in 1873, bears S.W. by W. ^ W. d^ miles from point San Antonio. It is about a mile in length, north-west and south-east, and half a mile wide. The approximate geographical position of the centre of the reef is lat. 28" 44', long. 115° 44'. There are several rocks awash and above water, and the sea constantly breaks over them. The reef is surrounded by thick kelp, which extends nearly to San Goronimo island (d^ miles N.W. ^ N. from it) and about half way to point San Antonio, between which and the reef there is a passage with 6 to 12 fathoms water. Although there is shoal water for many miles southward of the island, there are no indications of rocks or reefs; still there may be many hidden dangers, and a vessel should not approach this part of the coast without using great caution and sounding before running through the thick kelp. San Geronimo. — This islet lies about 5^ miles W. by N. J N. from point Sau Antonio, is about a mile in length, N.N.E. and S.S.W., and a third of a mile wide. Seen from northward it shows three hills of moderate elevation, the highest 170 feet, and it is low at both ends. The island is covered in many places with a mixture of sand and guano. It is surrounded by kelp and outlying rocks, except on the south- east side at the foot of the highest peak, where there is a small shingle-beach. There is a passage about 4 miles in width between the island and the mainland ; but it should not be used, except in cases of great emergency, as kelp covers nearly the entire space, and no doubt covers many hidden dangers. The geographical position of San Geronimo island, according to the observations of Com. Dewey U.S.S. Namiyansett 1874, is lat. 29° 47' 5", long. 115° 47' 44". Rosario Bay. — The coast between point San Antonio and point Baja, 14 miles N.W. \ N., recedes a few miles and forms near the latter point an open bay named Rosario. Here vessels may find protection from the coast winds. The country about the head of the bay near point Baja is fertile and cultivated, and supplies of vegetables, fresh beef, and water may be obtained there. The old mission of Rosario is a few miles inland. There is a reef and line of kelp extending a short distance southward from point Baja, and vessels entering the bay of Rosario should give it a good berth. Cape San Quentin is distant 25^ miles N.W. by N. from point Baja. The interven- ing coast is for the most part low and sandy, especially in the vicinity of San Quentin bay ; there are high hills a short distance inland. Mount Mayo, the highest part of the cape, is 210 feet in height, and is in the centre of the peninsula forming the western side of port San Quentin. Entrada point, the easternmost point of the peninsula, is low and rocky but may be approached within a quarter of a mile. Thence westwai'd the coast is of similar character with numerous projecting points and outlying rocks over which the sea breaks heavily. Reef point, the westernmost point of the head, is dangerous to approach, as numerous rocks, above and under water, lie oflf it. 170 LOWER CALIFORNIA. Port San Quentin.— Tho laiiil about port San Queutin is low and sandy, and entirely Avitbuut vegetation. The five remarkably placed mountains of volcanic origin, on the north side of the bay, caused one of the early nmigators to call this the " Bay of Five Hills." Thes& mountains arc from 800 to 1 IdO feet high, except the western end previously mentioned, which has an altitude of -iGO feet.* No vessel drawing over 12 feet should attempt to enter this bay without either buoy- ing the channel or sending a boat ahead, as the channel usually shifts with every south-east gale, and is narrow and tortuous with not over 3 fathoms on the bar. For small vessels it is a most excellent harbour, affording perfect protection from every wind. To enter the port, steer for Eutrada point (the last rocky point passed in entering), giving it a berth of a quarter of a mile ; then steer N.AY. about 4 cables, until you pass a sand-spit making out between Entrada and Sextant points ; then head up for the latter point W. by N., passing it close to, as the channel at this place is very narrow. Sextant point is low and sandy. After passing it, follow the shore-line, and anchor in 5 or 6 fathoms half a mile inside the point. The approximate geographical position of Entrada point, on the western side of the entrance to San Queutin bay, is lat. '60° 22', long. 115° 57'. San Martin Island. — About 10 miles north-west of cape San Quentin and 2| miles off the coast (which is here clilTy, 200 feet high) is San Martin island ; there is a clear passage between it and the mainland, carrying 10 to 15 fathoms water, apparently free from all dangers. San Martin island is of volcanic ol-igin, nearly circular in form, and is about 2 miles in extent in a'n east and west direction. It is quite barren, producing nothing but the prickly pear, and a little stunted brush growing among the rocks. The highest peak is 500 feet and is the crater of an extinct volcano, its diameter beiug 850 feet and its depth about 40 feet. There is good anchorage on the south-east side of the island, off the mouth of a small lafoon ; and a better one on the north-east side, in a snug little cove, named Hassler cove, where a ship may anchor in 8 or 9 fathoms protected from all winds except those from north. The eastern side of the cove is formed by huge boulders which extend off to the northwai-d, making an excellent breakwater. The geographical position of the anchorage on the north-east side of San Martin island, according to the observations of Com. Dewey XJ.S.S. Nan(viaiisett, 1874, is lat. 80^29' 4", long. 116° 0' 80". Dow Rock lies S/ ^ W. 3^ miles from the eastern end of San Martin island. It has from 9 to 12 feet water on it with 5 fathoms close to, and no bottom at 17 fothoms 2 cables from it. The sea does not break on it in moderate weather. The coast between San Martin island and Reef point (the western point of cape San Quentin) is formed of low sand-hills, except at about 5 miles to the northward of the point where one of the "Five Hills " borders directly on the sea. * This port is of no commercial importance, and is verj- rarely visited. It was surveyed in 1839 by Captain Sir E. Belcher, li.N., and a plan (No. 192i) of it was subsequently published. Face page 377 ANCHORAGE OF undlng's in Fathoms LaJL.31''51'30'N TODOS/ SANTOS ;i| SolidadR^(P,D.i SantoTomas P^ *^r\ ..^ 9 -fi-J fl 7 7 5i if \ (1880) ANCHORAGt OF SANTO TOMAS Sounding's in Fathonns LOUDON. James Imrav X- C5on , TODOS SANTOS ISLANDS, &c. I77 San Ramon Bay. — Four miles northward of San Martin island is the bay of San Ramon, formed by a slight indentation in the coast-line, which is here of low sand-hills 50 to 100 feet high. At the southern extremity of this bay, extending 2^ miles, is a remarkable perpendicular cliff of dark rock 150 to 200 feet high. The coast northward of San Martin island for about 20 miles is low and sandy ; the water shoal, with heavy surf off the part northward of Ramon bay. Thence to cape Colnett the coast is skirted by numerous fields of kelp making off 3 or 4 miles from the land. Cape Colnett, distant 30 miles N.W. f N. from San Martin island, is a remarkable headland, nearly semicircular in form, with perpendicular cliffs 100 to 350 feet high, of a dark-coloured rock (nearly black), on a bed of light sandstone, the coast retaining the same appearance for about 10 miles northward. The cape bearing E.N.E., distant 7 miles, shows dark with yellow sand beyond. Colnett nay. — From cape Colnett the coast trends north-eastward for a short dis- tance, forming Colnett bay, where good anchorage may be found in G to 8 fathoms, sandy bottom, sheltered from northerly winds. The geographical position of the head of Colnett bay, according to the observations of Cora. Dewey, U.S.S. Nanaf/aiisett, 1874, is lat. 30° 57' 30", long. 116° 17' 22". Point soiedad is distant 41 miles N.W. by N. from cape Colnett. The coast between these points recedes several miles and is generally low, rising rapidly inland. Point Soiedad is low and rocky, rising abruptly to a height of 500 feet. Southward of the point, near two houses, there is good anchorage in from 8 to 10 fathoms, sheltered from the coast wind. Soiedad rocks, one mile west of the point, are of small extent. The}' are 20 feet high, and surrounded by kelp. There is a clear passage between them and Soiedad point, keeping clear of the kelp on both sides. Point Banda, 12 miles N.W. ^ N. from point Soiedad, is the extremity of a pro- montory forming the southern side of Todos Santos bay. It is high, the highest peak being 500 feet, with outlying rocks extending three-quarters of a mile in a north- westerly direction. The coast between point Soiedad and Banda point is high and precipitous, with deep water close-to. There is a whaling-station about 3 miles eastward of Banda point, in the bay, with a good anchorage sheltered from all winds, except those from westward. The channel between point Banda and Todos Santos islands is about 3 miles wide and free from all dangers, except the outlying rocks off point Banda mentioned above. Todos Santos Islands, distant about 3 miles N.W. | W. from Banda point, front the bay of the same name. They extend about 2 miles in a north-west and south-east direction. The western one is about oue mile in length, east and west, a quarter of a mile wide, and 30 to 60 feet high ; the eastern one is about the same length, north- west and south-east, half a mile wide, and 250 feet high. Both are surrounded by detached rocks and kelp ; there is a boat-passage between them. Todos Santos Bay. — Cape San Miguel, the northern limit of Todos Santos bay, is high and bold. Thence to Encenada point, a distance of about 6 miles E. by S., the coast is bold, with cliffs 60 to 200 feet high. There is a large field of kelp near Encenada point, with 16 fathoms water at its southern end. 1731 LOWER CALU'ORXIA. From Eneenada point, which is 370 feet high, the coast recedes iu a north-easterif direction, forming a Bnug little anchorage, where vessels may anchor in 3 to 7 fathoms, sandy bottom, perfectly sheltered from all winds, except those from the south-west. From the west end of the sand-beach, where it joins the binffs of Eneenada point, the land sweeps around to the southward and westward to point Banda, which is 8^ miles distant, and is the southern limit of Todos Santos bay. The land at the bead of the bay is low and sandy, and the soundings, at the distance of one mile, are 8 to 5 fathoms. The geographical position of the anchorage at the north-east comer of Todos Santos bay, according to Com. Dewey, U.S.S. Narrnc/ansett, 1874, is lat- HV 51' 26", long, 116° 87' 55". From cape San Miguel the coast trends N.W. by W. 12 miles to point Sal-si- Puedes, and consists of sand-bluffs and rocky cliffs about 50 feet high, with high hills just back ; the mountain range a few miles inland presents the appearance, however,- to one a few miles at sea, of being immediately on the coast. Capo Bescanso is about 16 miles N.W. ^ N. from point Sal-si-puedes. The coast between these points is generally sandy, with an occasional rocky cliff, and mountains rising a short distance inland. Southward af Descanso point the land recedes somewhat, forming Oescanso bay. Sugar-loaf rock in the middle of the bay bears S.E. | E. 2^ miles from Descansc point ; it is a small low rock about 15 feet high, and apparently the only danger here- about. There is an anchorage southward of the rock which is oftert used by the small coasters-. Boundarxj Monument. — About 16i uiiles N.W. by N. from I>escanso point is a table- bluff rising from the low land south of San Diego bay, upon which is a monument marking the western point of the boundary between Mexico and the United States. It consists of an obelisk of white marble, about 20 feet in height, resting upon a pedestal. It stands near the edge of the bluff, about 200 yards from the shore, and its positiort is lat. 32° 81' 58", long. 117° 6' 11". Thence the coast is low and flat, running. N. by W. for about 7 miles, and then curving gradually wes-twarci until it is- nearly East and West at the entrance of San Diego bay. In th« interior are high mountains.- Between Descanso point and the monument the coast is generally bluff, 50 to 80 feet high, with a range oi hills about 500 feet high a few miles inland and a range of moun- taius at the back of them. One of these, the Table mountain, 2300 feet high, is remarkable ; another, a triple-peaked mountain a few miles south, is 2700 feet high. CORONAPOS ISETS. — These rocky islets, belonging to Mexico, lie about 7 miles from? the coast ; the largest of them is in lat. 32" 28' 46", long. 117° 13' 21". They forn* a group of high, bold, and abrupt rocks and islets, of which the largest (15 miles S. by E. from point Loma, San Diego) is about 2^ miles in length by a third of a mile in breadth, lying in a N.W. and S.E. -direction. It is a wedge-shaped mass, 800 feet high, entirely destitute of trees. At about a quarter of a mile eastward of the islet there is anchorage; and, there is but one landing place upon it, which is difficult. On the west and north-west sides of the large islet, half a mile distant, are two SAN DIEGO". 179 Sihallei' islets, or rather maflses of rock about 50 feet high, and destitute of vegetation. Excellent anchoa-age is said to exist in the vicinity. Another islet, the outermost, lies N.W. by W. distant 2\ miles from the large islet ; it is a hugh barren rock, about a mile in extent, with a very sharp summit. Foint x.oma and Lisht. — Point Loma is the termination of a remarkable narrow spur of coarse, crumbling sand-stories, which rises south of Puerto Falso, or False bay, and west of the town of San IJiego, to the height of 300 feet, and after stretching south for about 5^ iriiles, gradually increasing in height to 422 feet, terminates very abruptly. It is covered with coarse grassy cacti, wild sage, and low bushes. Upon point Loma is a lighthouse, consisting of a dark grey tower, from which is exhibited a fixed white light, at 492 feet above the sea, visible 25 miles. Its geographical position is lat^ 32° 40' 14", long. 117^ 14' 38".* SAN DIEGO. — The port of San Diego is formed on the ivest side by a bold projecting point of land, of which the southern extremity is named point Loma ; and, on the east side by low flat land covered with thick bushes and grass, named the ' island ', although it is really a peninsula — being connected to the eastern shore by a very low and nari'ow strip of beach. f Next to that of San Francisco, no harbour on the Pacific coast of the United States approximates in excellence that of the bay of San Diego. It is readily distinguished, easily approached, and a depth of 22 feet can be carried over the bar, which is three- qaarters of a mile east of the southern extremity of point Loma, and between it and the tail of the Zuniuga shoal. The width of the bar is about 3 cables from the outer to the inner 5 -fathom lines. Vessels coming from north-westward make the ridge of point Loma as a long, flat- topped island, when about 25 miles distant. This appearance is occasioned by the bay to the south-west, by the low land to the north-east, and by the Puerto Falso at the north. A thick field of kelp lies along the western shore of point Loma, the inrter edge' being but one mile oflf shore, and having a breadth of half a mile. The outer edge marks the line where the depth of water suddenly changes from 20 to 10 fathoms. The field commences oft' the bar at the entrance to False bay, and stretches southward 2f miles south of point Loma. Approaching the soGth end of Loma, along the outer edge of the kelp, pass through a partial break in it, and vt-hen the poiiit bears N.E. by E., distant H miles, keep along the northern edge of the kelp in 4| fathon'is, and aboi^t half a mile' froiti tlie point. • The longitude above (,nvon is that adopted by the United States Coast Survey, 1879. Com. George Dewey, U.S.N., ISTi, assumes the longitude of point Loma to be 117° 9' 40', and all his positions on the coast of Lower California given in this publication, are dependent on that assump- tion. + See the plan of the harbour of San Diego on the chart of the coast of California, issued by the^ publishers of this work (Messrs. Imray and Son). In this chart are inserted plans of most of the' harbours on the coast between cape Corrientes and San Francisco. The port of San Diego is fronted by a bar which is tolerably perraanent in its general features ; the instructions here given fof it ar* from the United States Coast Survey Report for 18G2. N 2 180 COAST OF CALIFORNIA, As soon as the point is passed, a long, low beach of shingle is opened, making out from the east side of the point and forming a natural breakwater, formerly called Punta de Guiranas* by the Spaniards, but now designated as Ballast point. Round up gradually until Ballast point is brought in range with the easternmost house of La Playa (distant one mile from Ballast point and on the same side of ,the bay), and be careful not to open more of the village, as the shoal called Ban-os de Zuningo f stretches south from the east side of the entrance, parallel to the ridge of point Loma, and distant only three-quarters of a mile from it. Between point Loma and this shoal runs the channel, which is less than half a mile wide within the 3-fathom lines. With the least swell the breakers show the position and extent of the shoal, and at low tides part of it is bare. It has been said that a rock, having but 5 or 6 feet of water upon it, lies in the channel ; its position being marked by a patch of kelp, which is, however, torn away in heavy weather. The pilot boat Fanny reported being upon it in 1851, but the examinations of the Coast Survey have developed no such danger, and the report has been generally discredited. During the summer keep as close to point Loma as the draught of the vessel will permit, and lay on the wind up to Ballast point, ofl' which 4 fathoms can be carried within a ship's length, with 10 fathoms in mid-channel, and a very strong current on the ebb and flood tides ; the former setting over the Zuninga shoal. After passing Ballast point steer for La Playa, and anchor anywhere in from 4 to 10 fathoms, with good holding-ground. Inside the point, and about 250 yards N. by W. from it, is a shoal having only 12 feet water upon it, in a line from Ballast point to the western- most house at La Playa ; it is a quarter of a mile long. The shoals on the starboard hand, after entering, are plainly in sight, except at very high water ; the channel, however, is buoyed, and cannot be missed. From La Playa to New San Diego, 4 miles distant, the channel curves to the right and contracts, but about 6 fathoms water may be carried that far. A mile or two beyond the town the bay becomes shoal and filled with flats, yet a very narrow 3-fathom channel runs close along the eastern shore, nearly to the head of the bay. Coming from the south, run for the extreme end of point Loma until Ballast point and La Playa are in range, as before, and follow the foregoing directions. When inside the harbour vessels are perfectly safe, but during very heavy southerly weather the kelp is said to drive in such masses as to make vessels drag their anchors. AVe have never known such a case, and doubt if a vessel with good ground tackle and proper attention would suffer from this cause. Certainly there is not reach enough for the wind to raise a swell, and the holding ground is excellent. In heavy south- east weather the sea breaks over Ballast point. From Ballast point the bay runs about north for 1\ miles; thence it curves gradually to the eastward for 3 miles to New San Diego ; thence to the head of the bay, south- east, 7 miles. The average width of the bay after passing La Playa is 1\ miles, but » Or Punta de los Guijarros. t Named by Yiscaino iu 1602. Don Gaspar de Zuaiuga, Count de Monterey, despatched the expedition. SAN DIEGO. 181 at New San Diego, after contracting to a trifle over half a mile, it again expands to about li miles, with low shores and extensive marshes and flats. Tides. — At La Playa the corrected establishment is 9h. 38m. The mean rise and fall of tide is 3-7 feet ; of spring tides 5 feet ; and of neap tides 2*3 feet. The mean direction of the flood is 6h. 25m. ; of the ebb 6h. ; and of the stand Oh. 80m. The following remarks on San Diego harbour are by Mr. Davidson, Chief of the U.S. Coast Survey on the Pacific Coast (1871). " There is a depth of 22 feet water on the bar at the mean of the lowest low waters. The average rise and fall of tide is 3'7 feet. The average rise and fall of spring tides is 5*0 feet ; of neap tides 2-3 feet. The width of the channel over the bar, carrying the foregoing depth, is about 600 yards ; the distance across the bar, between 100 and 200 yards. San Diego compares very favourably with other harbours on this coast. On San Francisco bar there is a depth of 5^^ fathoms ; on Humboldt bar, generally over 3 fathoms, but sometimes not over 15 feet ; on the Umpqua bar, 12 to 13 feet ; on Coos Bay bar, 7 to 12 feet ; on the Columbia river bar, 4^ fathoms ; on Shoalwater Bay bar, 4i^ fathoms. All these bars change much, except that of San Francisco; and although the Columbia River bar has moi'e water than that of San Diego, its advantages are partially counteracted by the frequently heavier swell, and the greater difficulty of running in by the landmarks. The depth of water on San Diego bar compares favourably with the depth on the entrances to Atlantic harbours. Boston has about 18 feet; New York, 23|^ ; Phila- delphia, 18i; Charleston, Mobile, and New Orleans, less than 18 feet. There is a noteworthy fact in relation to the depth of water on the bar of San Diego bay ; a compai'ison of the surveys of Dalrymple, in 1782, and Vancouver, in 1793, and the last United States Coast Survey examinations, shows no change to have taken place since the former date. The bottom is uniformly good. No rocks have been discovered in the bay or approaches. The position of San Diego bay with relation to point Loma is such that there is rarely much swell on the bar ; in summer there are not many days of heavy S.E. weather. As a rule there is less swell on this bar than on any other bar on the Pacific coast. I consider the approaches, the channel, and the facilities of entering and leaving, good, at all ordinary seasons, for all vessels not drawing over 20 feet of water, and at high water for vessels drawing 22 feet. Large vessels can go about 7 miles up the bay — reckoning from Ballast point — with an average width of channel of 4 cables between the 4-fathom lines at low water. This indicates sufficient capacity to accommodate the wants of a large commerce. The course of the channel within the bay is a regular curve, and buoys are needed on each side of the channel, from La Playa to Kimball's wharf. There is less rain, fog, and thick haze, and more clear weather in this vicinity than at all points to the northward, and the entrance is less difficult to make and enter on that account." {Mer. Mar. Mag., 1871, p. 232). Captain Sir E. Belcher, R.N., has observed "Port San Diego, /or shelter, deserves 182 COAST OF CALIFORNIA. all the commendation that previous navigators have bestowed on it, and with good tackle, a vessel may be perfectly land-locked. The holding ground is stubborn, but in heavy southerly gales I am informed anchors 'come home,' owing to the immense volume of kelp driven into the harbour. It was stated to me by an old sailor in this region, that he has seen the whole bank oi fncns (jiijanteiis (which comprises a tongue of 3 miles in length by a quarter broad) forced by a southerly gale into the port. This, coming across the bows, either causes the cable to part, or bring the anchor homo. No vessel, however, has suffered from this cause. The chief drawback is the want of fresh-water, which, even at the presidio, 8 miles from the port, is very indifferent." Commander Wilkes, U.S. Navy, observes as follows — "Port San Diego is of coDr siderable extent, being, in fact, an arm of the sea. It is 10 miles long, and 4 milea wide, and, from being laud-locked, is perfectly secure from all winds. The entrance is narrow and easily defended, and has a sufficient depth of water, 20 feet at lowest tide, for large vessels. The tide rises 5 feet. The tongue of kelp off the entrance of the bay must be avoided by large vessels, but small vessels may pass through it with a strong breeze. During gales, this kelp is torn up and driven into the bay, where it becomes troublesome to vessels by the pressure it brings upon them, either causing them to drag their anchors or part their cables. There are many drawbficks to this harbour ; the want of water is one of them, the river which furnishes the mission with water disappearing in the dry season before reaching the bay; and, the surrounding country may be called a barren waste of sand- hills. The town is situated on the north side of the bay, on a sand flat 2 miles wide. The mission establishment is 7 miles from the town, up a valley to the north-east; and here, there is a good supply of water the year round. This river, in the rainy season, discharges a considerable quantity of water into the bay, bringing with it much sand, which has already formed a bar across a part of False bay, rendering it useless, and well grounded fears may be entertained that it will eventually destroy this harbour also ; this occurrence, however, may be prevented at slight cost. The whole country around San Diego is composed of volcanic sand and mud, mixed with scoria. The land is unfit for cultivation, and covered with cacti, one of the many evidences of the poorness of the soil ; this leaves the port of San Diego little to recom- mend it but the uniform climate, good anchorage, and security from all winds." False Bay. — At the north end of the ridge of point Loma is an extensive shoal bay called Puerto Falso, or Fulse bay. The bar at its entrance lies N. by W. i- W., distant 5^ miles from the southern extremity of point Loma ; and having but 8 feet of water, it can be crossed only in the smoothes^t weather. The entrance just inside the line of heavy breakers is about a quarter of a njile in width, but rapidly contracts to less than half that width. The northern point of liiis bay is about 2 miles in length, very narrow, and covered with low sand dunes. To the north and ^vest of this the shore becomes compact and unbi-oken, except by tlio valleys of San Luig Rey and San Juan Oapistrano. From the southern extremity of point Loma the coast runs N. by W. for 22 miles ; Whence to the east point of San Pedro bay, N.W. by W. i W. nearly 60 miles. s^n Luis Bey. — In the above extent of coast occurs the mission of San Luis Rey, the largest in California, situated in about lat. 83' 17', long. 117" 29'. It is in a part cf 6 ^^' fi 4 .-S 'i ^ *. Eeai/y ANCHORAGE Nautic Mile Faxe poAjC 233 Iat.34''54'0'X JireaJ^ers r / 1.^ \ \U\y-. Breakers »/ Y S3., '^i '! / ^^r>S Lai. 33°43' 20" 'S. '^Z-^*^. J./ /■• 3k ■»i L' Flash evJoVc -.. V^. x5 e'"'^'?^-'' '' -,iS-ot5F~-- LONDON, ^Jajjies Imrav & Sen v\0 SAN PEDRO. 183 the country unequalled for salubrity and productiveness, but the scarcety of rain is an insuperable drawback to its prosperity. The anchorage is very restricted and scarcely ever visited, as it is quite open to westerly and southerly winds. San Juan Capistrano, a mission similar to that of San Luis Ray, is situated in about lat. 33° 27', long. 117° 43'. The anchorage is rocky in soundings of less than 5 fathoms, and is unprotected ; the landing is also bad. The bay is formed by a high cliffy head to the north-west, and terminates in a southerly direction in low sandy beaches. It is stated that when entering it from north-westward some care is required to give the bluff point a wide berth, because some dangerous rocks lie off it to a con- siderable distance. Commander Wilkes, U.S.N., says "This bay has at its head a fertile valley, in which is situated the town and mission of San Juan. The bay is entirely unprotected and is a bad roadstead, the bottom being very foul inside of 5 fathoms, and the landing at times impossible, on account of the surf. It can be safely visited only during the fine season. Provisions and water are easily obtained ; the latter from the mountain streams, which empty into the bay, and also enable the inhabitants to irrigate their lands, by which mode of cultivation they are made extremely productive. The shore here becomes quite bold, making the communication to the northward by the land very inconvenient." From San Juan Capistrano to point Fermin, on the west side of the bay of San Pedro, the distance is about 30 miles in a Yv^. by N. ^ N. direction ; in the space between, known as the Bahia de los Treniblnres, are several rivers (the Santa Anna, Bolsas, and San Gabriel rivers), also the landing wharf at Anaheim, a place rapidly rising in importance. The cliffs along this side of the coast are steep. Only very little water is to be obtained here, and the little that is required for the supply of the inhabitants has to be brought from a distance in the interior. San Pedro hill, over point Fermin, is 1600 feet high. Point Fermin Light. — A Jlaslibuj light is exhibited from a lighthouse on point Fermin, showing alternate red and white fiashes at intervals of 10 seconds, each flash being followed by an eclipse. The light is 151 feet above high water and visible 19 miles. The tower, 60 feet high, is square, of a light buff colour ; its geogi'aphical position is lat. 33° 42' 19", long. 118° 17' 37". Near the point is a rock with only 7 feet water over it. SAN PEDRO. — This bay is formed on the west side by the high bold land of which point Fermin is the extremity, and on the east side by the low coast of the main land. It is open to all points from S.W., by the southwaid to S.E., and is consequently exposed to the full force of the winter gales ; but during spring, summer, and autumn, it is an excellent roadstead. A little islet, named El More, lies half a mile from the beach, and has close to its east side a depth of 18 'to 12 feet ; between it and the shore there is no passage. At about 20 miles in the interior, almost North from San Pedro, is the town of Los Angeles, which is the centre of an extensive grazing, agricultural, an 1 ;" growing country. The quantity of grapes, and fruits generally, shipped from Sua Pedro to San Francisco during the proper season, is very large. During the year 1875 the exports of San Pedro amounted to 14,800 tons, among 184 COAST OF CALIFORNIA. which were 7,000 tons of grain, 1000 tons of fruit, and 1500 tons of wool. The im- ports amounted to 21,000 tons (exclusive of 12,000 tons for the raih'oad). From point Fermin a line of bold bluff runs exactly north and south for about 2 miles, and averages 60 feet in height. Point Vincente, the western point of the high land of San Pedro, is also bold and has deep water in its immediate vicinity. Vessels approaching San Pedro bay from ivesnvard through the Santa Barbara channel make San Pedro hill, as an island projected against the mountains to the southward and eastward. Approaching point Viucente, which is the south-west point of the hill, vessels can keep it close aboard, there being from 50 to 80 fathoms within a mile of the shore ; round point Fermin within half a mile, in from 6 to 10 fathoms, and open the small island El Moro, run for that island, and when abreast of the landing (readily recognized by the houses on the bluff), about one mile north of point Fermin, anchor in B fathoms, hard bottom, at half a mile off shore. Vessels must anchor a mile off to get 5 fathoms. Coming from the soutlmaril with north-west winds, beat in boldly until abreast of the landing; keep the lead going and anchor anywhere in its vicinity. Do not approach the low shore, to the north and east of El Moro, closer than 1 mile, at which limit 4 fathoms water will be found. In winter, anchor farther out, and more to the southward, in order to be able to slip the cable and go to sea should a heavy south-easter spring up. The waters of the lagoon, inside of the low sandy beach, and a mile or more north- ward of El Moro, find their principal outlet between that island and the bluff point half a mile west of it. The entrance is very narrow and crooked, and has or had two buoys, about 200 yards apart, to mark it. In 1859 it was stated that the " bar at the entrance to the creek remains about the same, as it did in 1852. At mean low water, throwing out the half tides, only 2 feet of water can be carried over it." A small tow- boat is now, we believe, used for taking vessels to New San Pedro, situated about 3 miles inside the bar. Wood and water are not readily obtained, and charges are high. The beef raised here is remarkably tough. The position of the landing place, W.S.W. | S. from El Moro, is considered to be lat. 33° 43' 20", long. 118° 16' 3". The corrected establishment of the port is 9h. 39m. The mean rise and fall of the tides is 3-7 feet ; of spring tides 4-7 feet ; and of neap tides 2-2 feet. Santa Anna Lagoon. — At about 15 miles from San Pedro in an E. .^ S. direction, is the Santa Anna lagoon which receives the waters of the Santa Anna river. When examined in 1861 it was found to be 5 miles long, and separated from the ocean by a narrow strip of low sand beach, over which washes the heavy swell from the north-west and south-east. The lagoon has a breadth of only a few hundred yards, and a mouth about 50 yards in width, with a narrow bar, upon which it is supposed 10 or 12 feet of water might be found at high tide. On this bar there is a very heavy break at all stages of the tide, rendering it dangerous to cross in boats of any kind. There is said to be no safe anchorage off the entrance, and the low straight beach, with a trend nearly east and west, affords no protection whatever. The San Pedro wind gap lies between San Pedro hill and the Sierra San Juan, to the south-east of the Santa Anna, PORTS MONICA, HUENEME, Sec. 185 and the summer winds draw directly on the land, causing the north-west swell to roll upon the beach with great force. In winter the swell breaks square upon this whole line of coast, and would prevent any vessel passing into or out of the lagoon, or riding at anchor near it. In summer the Santa Anna is said to frequently dry up before reaching the lagoork. Santa Anna lagoon is also known as Newport bay. monica Bay. — From point Vincente the coast trends N. by W. f W. 16 miles ; thence W. by S. to point Dume, in lat. 34°, long. 118° 42'. The curve in the coast thus formed is known as Monica bay ; at its head, in about lat. 34° 2', long. 118° 28', is a port bearing the same name. The trade at port Monica is small; in 1875 the exports and imports did not exceed 1000 tons respectively. Point Dume rises into a dome-like form 202 feet high ; the land immediately behind it falls away, so that in making it from westward it rises into view as an island close under the high mountains. Eastward of point Dume the mountains spring directly from the water. From point Dume to point Hueneme the coast trends about W. by N. 22 miles ; nearly midway between these points is Mugu point. Two miles westward of point Mugu is Laguna point, close under which is very deep water, the 10-fathom line running within 250 yards of the shore. Port Hueneme. — This port lies, we believe, a short distance southward of the point of the same name. It carries on a considerable trade; in 1875 its exports figured at 10,500 tons. Point Hueneme Light. — A. fixed ?ciid. flasliing light is exhibited from a lighthouse on point Hueneme, at an elevation of 54 feet above high water, visible 12 miles. It shows a fiJ-ed light for one minute, followed by six consecutive flashes of 10 seconds duration each. The tower, 46 feet high, is painted light buff colour ; its geographical position is lat. 34° 8' 39", long. 119° 12' 36". Being of slight elevation it shows very prominently against distant hills. Between point Mugu and Buenaventura the coast is low, flat, and sandy, being the opening of the valley of Santa Clara, through which flows the Santa Clara river ; this stream is nearly dry during the summer, and terminates in lagoons and marshes, but in the rainy season a volume of water is brought down having sufficient force to break through the narrow sand beach and flow into the ocean. The eastern entrance to the Santa Barbara channel lies between the eastern end of Anacapa island and point Hueneme, which is about half-way between point Mugu and Buenaventura. From Anacapa, point Haeneme bears N.E. by N. \ N., distant 1Q\ miles. Directly off" this point is found a remarkable example of a sub-marine valley, commencing with a depth of 10 fathoms, 2 cables from the beach, increasing Ito 50 fathoms in about half a mile, and to 113 in less than two miles. Its general.direction is South, with a width of a mile, and bounded on either side by depths of 12 and 15 fathoms. The best landing is directly on the point ; landing in the bight eastward and leeward of it is impraticable. San Buenaventura. — There is excellent holding ground off" Buenaventura in 10 fathoms, but the landing is not good. The 3-fathom line lies about a quarter of a mile off'-shore. The mission of Buenaventura, situated at the foot of the dividing ridge of the valleys of San Buenaventura and Santa Clara, about half a mile from the shore, was founded March 31st, 1782. Its position is about lat. 34° 15', long. 119^ 15'. JS6 COAST OF CALIFORNIA. In 1875 the trade at San Bueuaveutura was as follows: — exports, 4,500 tons, imports 8,200 tons. The climate is temperate aud the soil is remarkably fertile. At about 15 miles westward of Buenaventura, on the coast, there is a rich deposit of sulphur, surface specimens of which have yielded 60 per cent. Around the locality are ashes and scoria. The ground is hot, and the gas emitted is almost suffocating. SANTA BARBARA. — From Sau Buenaventura the coast trends nearly W. by N. 23 miles to Santa Barbara. This roadstead is open to all wuids except those directly from northward ; it is however somewhat sheltered by the islands Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa, and San Miguel from the heavy swell sent on the coast by south-west winds. The depth at half a mile from the beach is G fathoms, aud it is believed that no sunken dangers exist in the kelp which prevails in some profusion along the shore. When there is any swell the surf is very bad, not falling square on to the beach but cutting it at a sharp angle ; at this time landing is difficult. There is anchorage within the line of kelp in about 4 fathoms, which is resorted to in summer, but not in winter, because at the latter season the gales detach and drive it shoreward in such vast quantities that, coming across a vessels' hawse, it helps to bring home her anchors. We believe that vessels generally put to sea when there are indications of a gale coming on from south-eastward.* A dangerous sunken I'ock lies 12 miles westward of Santa Barbara aud one mile off shore ; it has only 15 feet water over it with a depth of 7 fiithoms inside it. The shore at Santa Barbara consists of a low sandy beach, which is terminated to the westward by a bold bluff, named point Castillo. The hill over this bluff is known as La Vigia. The usual landing place is at about half a mile eastward of point Castillo. The shore is low and flat as far as the town, three-quarters of a mile distant, but grad- ually rises to the mission, a prominent object about 2 miles inland. f The town is of considerable importance ; it is situated in the midst of a rich agricultural district, running east and west at the southern base of the Sierra Concepcion, but of limited breadth. The trade with San Francisco is not extensive ; but this being one of the greatest stock-raising districts on the coast, vasts droves of cattle pass through and are sent to San Francisco and the mining districts. In 1875 the exports amounted to 2800 tons, and the imports to 5,500 tons. Regular communication by steamers and sailing vessels is maintained with San Francisco and other ports. Wood and provisions in abundance can be obtained here. Water is plentiful, but not so readily procured. Light. — As a guide to vessels approaching Santa Barbara from westward and south- eastward, a lighthouse has been erected on the point, at about 2 miles south-westward from the landing place. It stands 183 yards from the edge.of the bluff, and shows a fixed white, light at 180 feet above the sea, visible 17 miles. Its position is considered to be lat. 34° 23' 44", long. 119" 43' 16". If approaching Santa Barbara from tiestaard and south-xi-estward, the hill La Vigia • See the plan of Santa Barbara on the chart of the coast of California, published by Messrs, Imrat and Son. t This mission is about 200 feet above the sea. It was founded December 4th, 1786, and soon became one of the largest and best establishments of the kind in California, and in the gardens jittachcd to it the grape and olive were cultivated with great success. ftp. (l80-ft| Fare page 186. ^^.tf-*"******^"* lat. 34°24'25'?r. SM1TA LONDON -Jumes Imra:? St Sun r SANTA BARBARA. 187 will be a prominent object. Steer for the hill, and upon approaching the anchorage keep outside the line of kelp (here nearly half a mile wide) ; gradually round the point upon which is situated the lighthouse, and keep along the kelp until abreast of the town, off which anchor in 7 fathoms. Or, pass through the kelp and anchor inside of it in 3^ fathoms, hard bottom. Outside the kelp in 9 or 10 fathoms, the bottom is sticky ; vessels occasionally anchor here. The approach to Santa Barbara from eastward or south-eastward requires no special remarks. Vessels may pass either eastward or westward of Anacapa island. Captain John Hall's experience of Santa Barbara agrees with the foregoing — " this bay is only sheltered from the N.W. winds, being exposed to the South and S.W. The anchorage is not very good, being hard sand, and overgrown with sea-weed. We had such a quantity of this on our anchor when we hove it up, that it entirely impeded the ship's progress until we got it clear. We found no tide or currents, but there appeared to be a rise and fall, in-shore, of about 2 feet. All kinds of provisions are cheap hero, as also fruits, viz. — grapes, pears, apples, and plums, in the season." Vancouver has remarked of Santa Barbara, " To sail into the bay requires but few directions, as it is open, and without any kind of interruption whatever ; the soundings on approaching it are regular, from 15 to 3 fathoms ; the former, from 1+ to 2 miles, the latter within 1^ cables' length of the shore. Weeds were seen growing about the roadstead in many places ; but, so far as we examined, which was only in the vicinity of our anchorage, they did not appear to indicate shallower water, or a bottom of a ditfereut nature. The shores of the roadstead are for the most part low, and terminate in sandy beaches, to which, however, its western point is rather an exception, being a steep cliir, moderately elevated." The COAST. — From the lighthouse at Santa Barbara the coast trends W. by S., 87 miles to point Concepcion. At a very short distance behind the coast is a range of rugged hills, over 2U00 feet high, forming part of the Sierra Concepcion (sometimes called the Sierra San Inez), whose sides are sparsely covered with timber, and through some of whose gullies and gorges pass small streams abounding in the finest trout ; from others issue warm springs having a temperature of about 117° Fahrenheit, and highly impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen ; — these springs are behind the village of Montecito, eastward of Santa Barbara, and by barometric measurement are about 1200 feet above the sea. At about 8 miles westward of Santa Barbara is a large bitumen pit, which empties directly into the sea, and the bitumen, floating on the water, works aijainst the summer or north-west winds even beyond point Concepcion. Very frequently, in calm weather, a great extent of the surface of the channel becomes iridescent from the thin film of bitumen spread over it. The rocks along the shore, even westward of point Concepcion, are covered with it. Sulphur, in large beds and of superior quality, also exists along the seaboard, and manifests itself in all the warm springs. El Coxo. — At about 2 miles eastward of point Concepcion is the anchorage of El Coxo, off the entrance to the valley of that name. This anchorage is better than that off Santa Barbara, and the kelp is not so compact. When approaching it from westward, pass point Concepcion at the distance of about three-quarters of a mile, steer E, by N. and gradually round the bluff which is a mile East from the point, givirg it 188 COAST OF CALIFORNIA. a berth of half a mile ; run on a N.N.E. course for three-quarters of a mile, when the valley will open with a sand beach oflf it. Anchor outside or inside the kelp, according to the choice of depth ; 5 fathoms being obtained within a quarter of a mile of the shore, with hard, sandy bottom. At half a mile from shore the depth is 10 fathoms. There is a large rancho at El Coxo, and it is one of the very best tracts for grazing. The beef has a finer flavour and more delicacy than any on the coast. At the head of the valleys and in the mountains is a species of large live oak, very brash when newly cut, but growing hard by seasoning. Willow, for fuel, and water can be obtained here, but neither in abundance. The water is disagreeable to the taste. FOXNT coNCEPCiON is a remarkable headland, rising to the height of about 220 feet. It is so conspicuous and pi'ominent an object, that it is said, when once seen it will never be forgotten. When made from northward, or from eastward, it rises as an island, but, a nearer approach, discovers it to be a high promontory, stretching boldly into the ocean, and terminating abruptly. The land behind it sinks comparatively low, and at first gradually, but soon rapidly rises to the mountains, which attain an eleva- tion of about 2500 feet. Between 300 and 400 yards south of the face of the cape is a large rock nearly awash, upon which some of the California steamers have struck in very foggy weather. Vancouver says of this point — " It is remarkable by its differing very much in form from the headlands to the northward. It appears to stretch out from an extensive tract of low land, and to terminate like a wedge, with its large end falling perpendicu- larly into the sea, which breaks against it with great violence. Off the point the current sets to the north in the early spring months." iiight. — The lighthouse upon point Concepcion is 35 feet high, and shows a light rerolviiir/ every thlrti/ seconds at 250 feet above the sea, visible 23 miles. The building is white, stands near the pitch of the point, and is considered to be in lat. 34" 26' 52", long. 120° 28' 8". A steam fog- whistle, stationed seaward of the lighthouse, is sounded in thick weather for 8 seconds every minute. From the lighthouse, Richardson rock, off the west end of San Miguel island, bears S. i E. distant 22 miles; the east end of San Miguel island S.E. by S. \ S. 26 miles; and the south-west end of Santa Cruz island S.E. by E. ^ E. 40 miles. Mr. Davidson of the United States Coast Survey says — "Next to the islands of the Santa Barbara channel, point Concepcion is the most prominent and interesting feature between San Francisco and the peninsula of Lower California. It has very justly and appropriately been termed the ' cape Horn ' and the ' Hatteras ' of the Pacific, on account of the heavy north-westers that are here met with on coming through the channel, with a great change of climate and meteorological conditions ; the transition being remarkably sudden and well defined. An investigation of the temperature of the ocean, north-west and east of the cape, would be highly instructive, as some character- istics would naturally be expected fi'om the abrupt change in the direction of the mountains and coast line. We have frequently seen vessels coming from the eastward with all sail set, and light airs from the north, in a very little time reduced to shoi*t canvas upon approaching the cape, and vessels from the north-west coming before a spanking breeze loose it within a few miles after passing the cape into the channel. ISLANDS OF CALIFORNIA. 189 These last would be fortunate in reaching Santa Barbara in a day. We have known a vessel to be 3 days working from San Buenaventura to Santa Barbara, whilst a ten- knot breeze was blowing west of point Concepcion. During some summer seasons the fog is almost interminable, but more particularly among the islands. For the space of six weeks, with clear days and nights at the cape, the islands have been invisible ; rising, however, to an elevation of 1000 or 1500 feet, the observer plainly sees the summits of the islands over the sea of fog which envelope them. When the fogs prevail, they generally roll in from seaward at sunset, and clear away about 10 o'clock next morning." THE ISLANDS OF CALIFORNIA. Magnetic Variation in 1879 ; — At San Clemente, 14° E. ; Santa Catalina, San Nicolas, and Santa Barbara 14° 20' E. ; Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa, and San Miyuel 14° 40' E. The annual increase is estimated to be about 3 minutes. These islands commencing with the southernmost are named San Clemente, Santa Catalina, Santa Barbara, San Nicolas, Anacapa, Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa, and San Miguel. They are separated from the northern shore by the Santa Barbara channel, which is about 20 miles wide. When making Santa Barbara channel from north-westward, shipmasters readily estimate their approach in thick foggy weather by the peculiar odour of the bitumen which, issuing from the large pit already mentioned (page 187) as situated on the shore about 8 miles westward of Santa Barbara and floating upon the water, works against the summer winds far beyond point Concepcion. This set westward is found to exist for about 4 miles from shore, and it runs at a maximum velocity of 1^ miles per hour; further out the current is variable, but even there its gi'eatest velocity is attained when running westward. From point Concepcion its direction is southward and westward, being doubtless influenced by a current from the upper coast. Vancouver directs attention to this bitumen, as follows — " The surface of the sea, which was perfectly smooth and tranquil, was covered with a thick slimy substance, whioh, when separated or disturbed by any little agitation, became very luminous, whilst the light breeze that came principally from the shore brought with it a strong smell of tar, or of some such resinous substance. The next morning the sea had the appearance of dissolved tar floating upon its surface, which covered the ocean in all directions within the limits of our view, and indicated that in the neighbourhood it was not subject to much agitation." Sir Edward Belcher, in October, 1839, also observes — "Off this part of the coast, westward of Santa Barbara, we experienced a very extraordinary sensation, as if the lyo ISLANDS OF CALIFORNIA. ship was on fire, aud after a very close investigation attributed it to a scent from the shore, it being more sensible on deck than below ; and the land breeze confirming this, it occurred to me that it might arise from naphtha on the surface." Among the islands, as far as San Nicholas, the current runs southward. On the Cortez shoal it frequently runs against the N.W. wind at the rate of nearfy 2 miles per hour. At other times it has been found to run in an opposite direction with nearly as much strength. The rainy season here commences in the early part of November, and continues until the middle of March. The quantity of rain that falls does not average over 15 inches, but some seasons arc marked by excessive drought. During the winter S.E. gales prevail, and sometimes during the summer months southerly weather will bring up heavy rain. Cortez Bank. — This bank, within the depth of 50 fathoms, has an extent of about 15 miles in a AV. by N. and E. by S. direction, its east end being in lat. 32° 24', long. 118° 59' 30", and its west end in lat. 32° 32', long. 119° 17' 30". It has an average and nearly uniform width of 8^ miles. The bottom is hard, composed of white sand, broken shells; and fine coral at the south-east portion; and sand, with broken shells, at the north-west. The shoalest and most dangerous part is that known as the Bishop rock, which is 5 miles from the south-east tail of the bank, and has but 2^ fathoms of water upon it. Around this danger the depth increases gradually, aud in an extent of 2| miles in the general direction of the bank reaches but 15 fathoms. The rock is Considered to be in lat. 32° 25^', long. 119° 5', and from it the north- west end of the island of San Nicolas bears N.W. by N., distant 57 miles; and the south-east end of the island of San Clemeute N.E. J N. 46 miles. A shoal spot of 10 fathoms is also situated in about the middle of the bank; it is of limited extent, being only half a mile square within the 15 fathom curve. Its position is considered to be lat. 32° 26|', long. 119° 10^', and from it the north-west end of San Nicholas bears N.N.W. i W., distant 54 miles; aud the south-east end of San Clemente N.E. J E., distant 50 miles. From the Bishop rock it bears W. ^ N., distant 5 miles. North-westward of this shoal spot the depth is nearly uniform at 49 fathoms for 7i miles, and between it and the Bishop rotfk the depth is uniform at about 43 fathoms. Upon the Cortez bank the current is variable, frequently setting against the strong N.W. winds with a velocity of nearly 2 miles per hour, and producing at all times a heavy swell, and even in moderate weather breaking heavily upon the rocks. AVhen passing over the bank at night its locality may be known by the increased swell. In the detailed examination of 1856 it was found that the general set of the current was southward and eastward, and the greatest velocity l.i miles per hour; but no statement was made concerning the prevailing wind. The Cortez bank lies in the direct route now followed by the Panama and San Francisco steamships, and was discovered by Captain Cropper, of the steamship Cortez, in March 1853. His position was determined by bearings of San Nicolas and Sari Clemente, and was very close, being within a mile of the later and best assigned pla«e. He says that the water around it was in violent commotion, and thrown up Foi-A pope 190 Naulic Miles Sounding's in Fathoms. 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