L" U \7. DESCRIPTIVE GUIDE ENGLISH LAKES, AND ADJACENT MOUNTAINS WITH NOTICES OF TUB iSotang, iWincralogg, anTj Geologg of tl)c Jlisttict. ^ ^f BY JONATHAN OTLEY. SEVENTH EDITION. TO WDICH 18 ADDED, AN EXCURSION THROUGH LONSDALE TO THE CAVES. KESWICK: PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR; BT SntPKIN, MARSHALL, & CO., STATIONERS* COURT, LONDON : AND ARTHUR FOSTER, KIRKBT LONSDALE. 1843. PREFACE. Guides and Tours to the Lakes have been, and continue to be, offered to the Public in various forms and sizes; but chiefly devoted to a single object — the picturesque appearance of the Country — to the exclusion of other important considerations. It is admitted, that the gratification of the eye is a leading motive with many of those who make the Tour of the Lakes; but it is not so with all. The reflecting mind will feel more satisfaction in having gained some knowledge of the structure, the natural history and productions of the region he has visited. As a resident among the objects he attempts to de- scribe, the Author of this Manual has possessed many opportunities of making observations, which would escape the notice of the transient visitor — the compiler from the works of others — or even of one who under- took a tour for the especial purpose of making a book. Availing himself of these advantages, and a little experience in surveying, he constructed a Map of the District, divested of many errors which have been copied into former maps, and containing some particulars not to be found in any other. This Map, which has been re-engraved for this edition, with considerable improve- ments, has been accompanied with such descriptions, directions, and remarks, as were judged likely to be serviceable to the Tourist; in conducting him through the most eligible paths for viewing the varied scenery, 2(>L7'?S9 and at the same time conveying some information on the structure and phenomena of these interesting regions. The Lakes have been so often and so copiously dilated upon, that a concise description of them is all that has been thought necessary; but the observations upon the different ^Mountains are extended to some length, as they have been hitherto very inadequately and often very inaccurately described. The Public have so far appreciated his labours as to enable him to dispose of six editions, every one of which has been carefully revised, and interspersed with addi- tional matter; but the original design has never been departed from — to supply as much information as pos- sible, without making the book either cumbrous or expensive. In some former editions has been introduced a series of sketches, by the Author's own unpractised hand, of the most remarkable Ranges of Mountains surrounding the different Lakes, as they appear from select stations on the roads, or places easy of access. This has been found a more intelligible mode of communicating their names than any verbal description, more easily remem- bered, and to obviate the necessity of many questions, often wished to be put when no one is at hand to answer. In the present edition, this department has been con- siderably extended, and the execution intrusted to ex- perienced artists; and if the pains taken in collecting and arranging these materials is equalled by the recep- tion it meets with, the Author's anticipations will be realized. To this edition has been superadded an Excursion through the Vale of Lune. and to the Caves of the West-Riding of Yorkshire. Goldsmith advised an author not to presume upon the continuancs of his reputation unless he coutinu- ed to be read for Ten Years. Otlev's GviDc TO THE Lakes has been read fot more than Twenty Years — has reached a Seventh Edition, and still continues to be read. Originall/ composed from personal observation, each succeeding edition has been carefully leviscJ, intersper.-Jed with additional matter, and printed under tha superin- tendence of the Author; who trusts that his pro- duction will not yet sufTer in comparison with any rival publication. Keswick, March 28tb, 1845. CONTENTS. The Lakes 1 Windermere 2 View from Bowness 5 View from the road between Troutbeck Bridge and Bowness 7 Esthwaite Water 7 Grasmere Water 7 Rydal Water 8 View from Red Bank Head 9 Thirlmere 9 Coniston Water 10 View from near Bank Ground 11 Derwent Lake 11 View from Crow Park 13 Ullswater 15 View from Pooley Bridge 14 View of Patterdale from Place Fell 17 Brothers Water 17 Hawes Water 18 View from Moasand Beck 19 Bassenthwaite Lake 19 Buttermere Lake 19 Crummock Lake 20 View from near Lowes Water Church 21 Lowes Water 21 Ennerdale Lake 22 View from between Kirkland and Salter 23 Wast Water 24 View from Nether Wasdale 25 The Tauns 27 Waterfalls 35 Rivers 40 Mountains 43 Skiddaw 44 Sketch of Skiddaw and Saddleback 45 Helvellyn 53 Sketch of Mountains from Helvellyn 57 Scawfell and Pikes 59 Saddleback 63 Gable— Pillar 64 Bowfell — Grasmoor — Grisedale Pike 65 Carrock Fell — Black Comb — Coniston Fell 66 Fairfield — Langdale Pikes 68 High Streets- Wansfell Pike 69 Whiteless Pike 70 Loughrigg Fell 71 Bearings and Heights of Mountains 72 Crags 74 Antiquities — Druidical Circles 75 King Arthur's Round Table — Mayburgh... 76 Barnscar — Beacons — Hardknot Castle 77 Castles 78 Furness Abbey 78 Calder Abbey — Shap Abbey 79 Explanation of Terms 80 Season FOR visiting THE Lakes 84 General Directions and Excursions — Stages in the District 86 Carlisle to Keswick 87 Whitehaven to the Lakes 88 Lancaster 90 Lancaster to Ulverston 92 Ulverston 93 Ulverston to Furness Abbey and Coniston 94 Coniston to Ambleside 95 Milnthorp to Kendal 96 Kendal 96 Kendal to Hawes Water 97 contents. vu General Directions and Excursions — Kendal to Shap Wells 98 Kendal to Bowness and Ambleside 99 Bowness 99 Bowness to Esthwaite Water and Coniston 100 Low Wood Inn 101 Ambleside 102 Ambleside to Langdale 103 Ambleside to Loughrigg Fell, &c 106 Ambleside to UUswater 107 Ambleside to Eskdale and Wasdale 108 Ambleside to Keswick 110 Penrith 113 Penrith to UUswater 113 Pooley Bridge Inn to Patterdale 113 Penrith to Hawes Water 114 Cockermouth to the Lakes 116 Keswick 116 Round Derwent Lake 122 To Borrowdale by Watendlath 124 Through Borrowdale to Buttermere 125 Drive to Scale Hill and Buttermere 129 Keswick to Wast Water and Calder Bridge ... 130 Return from Calder Bridge to Keswick 134 Drive round Bassenthwaite Lake 137 Keswick to UUswater 138 Appendix 140 Botanical Notices 142 Geology of the Distbict 154 Meteorology 170 Floating Island in Derwent Lake 175 Black-Lead Mine in Borrowdale 179 Lonsdale and the Caves 183 Explanation of the Map viii EXPLANATION OF THE MAP. The Boundaries of Coun- ") TIES, where not formed by > are marked by small dots. streams . . . ; Turnpike Roads, . by strong double lines. Other Carriage Roads, by smaller double lines. Inferior Carriage Roads, by a line on one side. Horse Tracks, or Bridle \ by double lines of longish Roads, . . .J dots. Foot Paths, . . by single lines of the same. Names of Market Towns, in Roman Capitals. Parishes and Townships, in Italic Capitals. Mountains and Rivers, in small Roman. Churches and Chapels, are denoted by small crosses. Country Inns and Public | ^^ ^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^^ i by a few strokes on each side Waterfalls, . . | \y>^,^^ ^^^^^,„_ LOUGHRIGG TARX, WITH LANGDALE PIKES. THE LAKES. ' The Mountainous District in which the Ensrlish Lakes are situated, extends into three Counties, Cumberland, Westmorland, and Lancashire, which form their junction at a point denoted by three shire stones, upon the mountain Wrynose, near the road side. Lancashire is separated from Cumberland by the river Duddon; from Westmor- land by the stream running through Little Lang- dale, and by Elterwater and Windermere, until south of Storrs Hall; after which the river Winster forms the boundary till it enters the sands near Methop. Westmorland is parted from Cumberland by the mountain ridue leading over Bowfell to Dunmail Raise, and from thence over the top of Helvellyn; then by the stream of Glencoin to Ullswater, and by the river Eainont till it enters the Eden. Windermere Lake is said to belon"- to d, AVINDERMERE. Westmorland, at least its islands are claimed by that county, although the whole of its western and part of its eastern shores belong to Lancashire. Coniston and Esthwaite Lakes, with Blelham and the tarns of Coniston, are wholly in Lancashire. Grasmere, Rydal, and Hawes Water, with several tarns, lie in Westmorland. The head of UUswater is in Westmorland, but below Glencoin it consti- tutes the boundary between that county and Cum- berland. Derwent, Bassenthwaite, Buttermere, Ennerdale, and Wastwater, are in Cumberland. Before this country became so much the resort of strangers, the word Lake was little known to the native inhabitants; but to the ancient termi- nation inere^ Water was usually superadded, as Windermere Water, Grasmere Water. WINDERMERE Having given its name to the adjoining parish, it has been thought necessary, in speaking of the lake itself, to add the word water ^ or lake^ by way of distinction. It is the largest of the English Lakes, being upwards of ten miles in length, mea- sured upon the water; by the road on its banks, considerably more. Its greatest breadth is about a mile, and depth nearly forty fathoms. Several promontories push into the lake from each side; and between two of these, near the WIMDERMERE. 3 middle of its length, is a public ferry, on the road from Kendal to Hawkshead. The numerous islands with which it is enriched, are chiefly grouped near the middle of the lake; admitting ample scope for the exercise of sailing. The principal, called Belle- Isle — in compliment to the late Mrs. Curwen, who purchased it into the family — is a beautiful plot of thirty acres, sur- mounted by a stately mansion, and encircled by a gravel walk of nearly two miles, which strangers, in quest of the variegated surrounding scenery, are freely permitted to perambulate. Besides this, are Crow-Holm, two Lily of the Valley-Holms, Thompson's-Holm, House-Holm, Hen-Holm, La- dy-Holm, and Rough- Holm; and to the south of the Ferry, Berkshire-Island, Ling-Holm, Grass- Holm, Silver-Holm, and Blake-Holm. Windermere is stocked with a variety of fish, of which char are the most esteemed. Char, being taken by nets in the winter months, are potted, and sent to different parts of the kingdom. The principal feeders of the lake are the Rothay, hav- ing its source in Grasmcre; and the Brathay, issuing from Lanofdale. These two rivers unite their streams about half a mile before entering the lake; and a remarkable circumstance is, that the trout and char, both leaving the lake about the same time, to deposit their spawn, separate them- selves into the two different rivers; the char making choice of the Brathay, and the trout taking to the Rothay. 4) M^lNDERMERE. This lake is situated in a country finely di- versified by sloping hills, woods, and cultivated grounds, with lofty mountains in the distance. Its banks are adorned with buildings, which combine better with the scenery of this, than they would with that of the more northern lakes. Storrs-Hall, late the mansion of Colonel Bolton, is beautifully situated upon a low promontory, and Rayrigg upon a bay of the lake. Calgarth-Park, formerly the residence of the late Bishop of Llan- daif, has a lowly, and Elleray, for some time the abode of Professor Wilson, an elevated situation. The villa of Mr. Redmayne, at Brathay, and that of Mr. Brancker, at Croft-Lodge, are conspicuous objects near the head of the water. The Station, belonging to Mr. Curwen, is a building erected upon a rocky eminence above the Ferry house. The path leading to it is decorated with native and exotic trees and shrubs; the upper story commands extensive views of the lake and surrounding scenery: and the windows, being partly of stained glass, give a good representation of the manner in which the landscape would be affected in different seasons. The view towards the north has every essential for a beautiful land- scape: a bold foreground, a fine sheet of water, graced with islands, the large one, belonging to Mr. Curwen, with its dome-topped building, being a principal feature; the village of Bowness, the mansions placed at various points, the rich woods, and distant mountains, all contribute to enrich the 'm^^ .Hieh Raise .Ullskarth, Wythburn Head ...Loughrieg Fell (line 2) ...[Raise Gap] ...Gilbert Scar (line 2) ...Nab Scar ...Great Rieg ...Fairfield ...[Rvdal Park] ...Wansfell Pike ...Red Screes, near Kirk- stone ■••Woundale Head Troutbeck Hundreds (1.2) ...Cawdale Moor ...Threshthwaite Mouth ...HiKh Street ...Froswick ...III Bell ...Yoak ...Applcthivailo Fell WINDERMEKE. 5 scene. The southern half of the lake is narrower; but its shores are beautifully broken and wooded. Some would like to commence their survey of Windermere at Newby Bridge, and observe the scenery unfolding itself as they advance. Others will be more gratified by the prospect bursting upon them at once, in full expansion, as it does from the elevated ground, on either of the roads leading from Kendal towards Bowness or Amble- side. All the way, from two miles south of Bowness, to the head of the lake, the views are excellent; and every rising ground affords some- thing new in the combination. Rayrigg-Bank has the most complete view of the whole lake, from north to south; but a station about a mile from Low Wood Inn, on the highest part of the road towards Troutbeck, being more elevated, gives the most distinct view of all the islands, and the spaces between them. About Troutbeck Bridge, the range of mountains, extending from Coniston Old Man to Langdale Pikes, appears to great advan- tage : the Pikes, on Scawfell, (the highest land in England,) being seen on the left of BowfcU; and, between it and Langdale Pikes, stand Great End and Gable, as if guarding the pass at Sty- Head. From some parts of the lake the summit of Hel- vellyn can just be seen, beyond the fells of Gras- mere and llydal. It may also be seen from the top of Brantfell, and from a rocky knoll lower down ; and a peep at Skiddaw is obtained at the n2 6 WINDERMERE. junction of the Cartmel and Milnthorpe roads, a mile and a half south of Bowness. A walk, or a ride, along the sequestered road from the Ferry towards Ambleside, will be found agreeable to the contemplative mind; and during a voyage on the northern part of the lake — without which no tour can be called complete — a variety of both near and distant scenes are presented to the view in delightful succession : the different vallies being opened out to the eye of the spectator in a manner unequalled from any station. As the boat proceeds from the landing place at Low Wood, a person, previously acquainted with the distant mountains, will feel a pleasure in observing how the highest Pike on Scawfell seems to march forth from behind Bowfell, and the Gable from behind Langdale Pikes. Bowness is an irregularly built but very neat village, on the banks of the lake; it has two splen- did inns, and one of a secondary description; and there are several genteel residences in the neigh- bourhood. Low Wood Inn stands sweetly at the edge of the water; and Ambleside is at a convenient distance for making excursions, either upon the lake, or to the adjacent vallies and mountains. At Newby Bridge, on the foot of the lake, is an inn, where boats and post-horses may be hadj another at the Ferry, on the Lancashire side; and the inns at Bowness, Low Wood, and Ambleside are spacious, and furnished with every requisite accommodation. .Old Man — Coniston Fell .The Carrs .Welherlan^ ..[Wrynose Gap] - ?»- ^ \^( .Pike of Bliscow (line 2 .Crinkle Crags .Scawfell Pike .Bowfell .Great End .Lingmoor (line 2) ■Hindside ■Great Gable .Pike of Stickle .narrison Stickle . Paveyark .High Raise .Silverhow (line 2) . Hammerscar (line 2; ( 7 ) ESTHWAITE WATER Is a small placid lake, nearly two miles in length, and distinguished by a fine swelling peninsula, which reaches far into the water from the western side. It is situated near the ancient little town of Hawkshead, in a beautiful open valley, which is crowned with gentle eminences, and decorated with an agreeable composition of houses, fields, and trees. On a pond called Priest Pot, near the head of this lake, there is a Floating Island, 24 yards in length, and 5 or 6 in breadth, supporting several alder and willow trees of considerable size. Dif- fering from the one in Derwent lake, which rises occasionally from the bottom, this remains always upon the surface, generally resting against the shore ; but, when the water is high, it is sometimes moved from side to side by a change of wind; and, by such means, has undoubtedly been torn from the bank at some remote period. A gentleman, trolling in Esthwaite Water, seven days in May last, caught the unprecedented num- ber of 130 pike, averaging in weight about 2lt)S. GRASMERE LAKE Is not large, but well formed; and placed near the confines of a cultivated valley, which, with the parish, takes the name of Grasmere. The island, containing about four acres of verdant pasture, forms a striking contrast to the massively wooded islands on some of the neighbouring lakes. It rises boldly from the water, in a fine swelling form; 8 RYDAL WATER. and its smooth green surface, when spotted with cattle grazing, has a beautiful appearance. Most of the lakes, in order to be seen to advantage, require the progress to be made from the foot towards the head of the lake ; but Grasraere, being completely encircled by mountains, is an exception to the general rule. The view from Dunmail Raise was much admired by Mr. Gray; others have spoken highly of that from Townend; and Mr. West chose his station on Dearbought hill, at the head of Red Bank, on the opposite side. In short, from whatever point the approach to Grasmere is made, the prospect is always pleasing. There are two good houses for the accommo- dation of travellers : the Red Lion, supplying post horses and jaunting cars, is near the Church; and the Swan on the turnpike road. RYDAL WATER Is of smaller dimensions, and formed in a more contracted part of the valley; it receives the river flowing from Grasmere lake after a course of about half-a-mile. It is ornamented by two picturesque islands, on one of which the herons build their nests in the trees; and it is bordered by meadows and woody grounds, surmounted on one side by the precipitous rocks of Nab Scar, and on the other by the steeps of Loughrigg Fell. The fish in Grasmere and Rydal Waters are pike, perch, (provincially called bass,) and eels, with a few trout. .Hammer Scar 7> 9 CO M !f?^'^ '>^; ^ 'j\ ^'^\ . Ullskarlh, Wythburn Head .Helm Crag (line 2) ■Stile . Littleilale Pike.Skiddaw .[Raise Gap] •Calva, in Callbeck Fells .Part of Helvellyn .[Grisedale Hause (1.2)] .Great Rigg, Fairfield ."Green-head Ghyll" Words. .Forest Side Fell . Scandale Fell .[Ilydal Park (line 2)] .Yoak, near Kentmero .Loughrigg Fell ( 9 ) THIRLMERE — Commonly called Leathes' Water, from the family to whose estate it belongs, and sometimes Wythburn Water, from the valley in which it is partly situated— lies at the foot of the "mighty Helvellyn;" upon the highest level of any of the lakes, being nearly 500 feet above the sea; it is upwards of two miles and a-half in length, and intersected by several rocky promontories; it is divided into an upper and lower lake, between which a picturesque wooden bridge leads to Arm- both House. The depth of this lake, which has been reported to be very great, has not been found to exceed eighteen fathoms. A wooded island, of half an acre, lies near the shore, on the lower or northern part of the lake; and the surface of the water being of late somewhat lowered by opening its outlet, a small rock in the upper part has be- come more conspicuous. Travellers are commonly satisfied with a sight of this lake from the road; but those who have leisure may obtain better views of the lower and finer part of the lake, from diff"erent stations in the grounds near Dalehead House ; and the upper part of the lake, with its mountains, is best seen by those who turn off' near the fourth mile stone, and travel the western side of the water. But the most perfect view of the whole lake is from a rocky eminence at a little distance from its northern end. ( 10 ) CONISTON WATER, Called in some old books Thurston Water, is a lake of considerable magnitude, being six miles in length; but wanting in that agreeable flexure of shores so conducive to the beauty of a lake. Near its foot, however, are some finely wooded, rocky promontories; which, from certain points, add greatly to the prospect. It has two small islands, but they are placed too near the shore to contribute much to its importance. As the principal mountains lie on the western side and at its head, the best views are in conse- quence obtained in a progress from its foot, on the eastern side, or from a boat on its surface; but those who have leisure may be gratified by the va- riety afforded in an excursion quite round the lake. Its greatest depth is twenty-seven fathoms. It is well supplied with trout and char; the latter are said to be better here than in any other lake; they are taken by nets in winter, and it was formerly supposed they could not be tempted by any kind of bait; however, they are sometimes taken by angling, with a hook baited in a peculiar manner with a minnow. The inn, at Waterhead, is pleasantly situated on the margin of the lake, and furnishes parties with pleasure boats, a chaise, and pair of post horses. Waterhead House, the property and occasional residence of James Marshall, Esq., stands de- lio-htfully on a rising ground a short distance from the inn. ...Walney Scar ...Blown Pike ...Buckbarrow .Wetherlara .Great Oukrigg .Prism .Tilberthwaite Fell .Yewdale Crags . Yewdale .Raven Crag .Holm Fell ( il ) DERWENT LAKE, Near Keswick, is of the most agreeable proportions. In breadth, it exceeds any of the neighbouring lakes, being nearly a mile and a half; although its whole length is little more than three miles. Lakes of greater length generally extend too far from that mountain scenery, which is so conducive to their importance; but Derwent lake appears wholly sur- rounded ; and visitors are at a loss which to admire most, the broken rocky mountains of Borrowdale on the one hand, or the smooth flowing lines of Newlands on the other; while the majestic Skiddaw closes up the view to the north. The islands are of a more proportionate size, and disposed at better distances, than those in any of the neighbouring lakes. The largest, called Lord's Isle, contains about six acres and a half, and is covered with stately trees, forming a fine rookery. It is situated near the shore, on which account, probably, it was selected for the residence of the family of Derwentwater ; but the house has long been in ruins, and nothing now remains but the foundation. This, and the smaller island called Rampsholm, form part of the late Earl of Der- wentwater's sequestrated estate, which was pur- chased from Greenwich Hospital, in 1832, by the late John Marshall, jun., Esq., of Leeds. The Vicar's Isle, the residence of James Henry, Esq., contains al)out six acres, beautifully laid out iu pleasure grounds, interspersed with a variety of 12 DERWENT LAKE. trees, and crowned with a house in the centre. For some years it was called Pocklington's Island, while it belonged to a gentleman of that name; and is now, by way of pre-eminence, styled Der- went Isle. One, nearer the middle of the lake, is called St. Herbert's Isle, from being the residence of that holy man, who, according to the Venerable Bede, was contemporary with St. Cuthbert, and died about A.D. 687. It appears that several centuries afterwards, the anniversary of his death was, by the Bishop of the diocese, enjoined to be celebrated upon this spot in religious offices. Some remains of what is said to have been his cell are still to be seen among the trees with which the island is covered. About 1798, a small grotto or fishing cot was built by the late Sir Wilfred Lawson, of Brayton House, to whose successor the island now belongs. There are other small islets; as Otter Isle, situated in a bay near the head of the lake, the views from which have been much admired; a piece of rock called Tripetholm, and two others known by the name of Lingholms. Besides these permanent islands, an occasional one is sometimes observed, called the Floating Island: being a piece of earth, which, at uncertain intervals of time, rises from the bottom to the sur- face of the lake; but still adhering by its sides to the adjacent earth, is never removed from its place. Within the last thirty-five years, it has O -=i o J ...Bnind Fell (line 2) ...Glaramara ...Castle Crac (line 3) ...[Esk Hause] ...Great End ...Scawfell Pike ...Gate Crag .Blea Crag .Bull Cras ...Cat Bell ...Hindscarth ...Skelgill Bank ...Robinson ...High Stile ...Vale of Newlands ^1. .3) ...Ued Pike ■■Ravvling End • Causey Pike /%\ /} —Sail / il/l ...111 Crags ►Jv^ 1 \ / ...Swinside (line 2) .Grlscdale Pike DERWENT LAKE. 13 emerged twelve times; remaining upon the surface for longer or shorter periods. In a succeeding part of this work the discussion of this subject will be resumed at greater length. The lands bordering the lake belong principally to three wealthy proprietors. The heirs of the late Mr. Marshall hold the Derwentwater estate on the east; Major-General Sir John Woodford, the late Lord William Gordon's estate on the west; and Mr. Standish, late Stephenson, chiefly the south. Mr. Pocklington's estate at Barrow also adjoins the lake, and his house boldly overlooks it. The neat cottage of Sir John Woodford is secreted by lofty woods, on the edge of a placid bay, on the western side of the lake. Derwent Lake lies 228 feet above the level of the sea; its depth does not in any part exceed four- teen fathoms: a great portion of it scarcely one fourth of that measure. It is supplied chiefly from Borrowdale, and forms a reservoir for the water, which, in heavy rains, pours down the steep moun- tains on every side; by which means its surface is often raised six or seven feet; and, in an extraor- dinary case, has been known to rise a perpendicular height of eight feet, above its lowest water mark. At such times the meadows are overflowed, all the way between this lake and Bassenthwaitc. Its sur- face being large in proportion to its depth, causes it to be sooner cooled down to the freezing point; and it frequently aff'ords a fine field for the skaiter. In January, 1814, the ice attained the thickness of c 14 DERWENT LAKE. ten inches; and once or twice since that time it has nearly reached the same dimensions. The fishery and right of navigation on the east side belongs to the Derwentwater estate; on the west, to the Earl of Egremont; and on the south, to the freeholders of Borrowdale. The fish are trout, pike, perch, and eels. The trout, which are very good, are taken by angling, in the months of April and May; the pike and perch, during the whole summer. It would be superfluous to enter into a descrip- tion or enumeration of the different views on this lake: many attempts have been made to describe them — but they must be seen to be duly appre- ciated. Parties navigating the lake may be landed to view the cascades at Barrow and Lowdore: at the latter place is a public-house, where a cannon is kept for the echo, which on a favourable opportu- nity is very fine; the sound being reverberated from the rocks encompassing the valley, at inter- vals proportioned to their respective distances. To such as have not another opportunity of viewing the scenery of Borrowdale, it may be re- commended to leave the boat at Lowdore, and to walk forward to Bowder Stone, a distance of two miles; where is a good prospect of the upper part of Borrowdale, with Castle Crag on the right, Eagle Crag on the left, and Great End Crag in the distance. The village of Rosthwaite, sheltered by rising hills and stately trees, on the verge of green meadows, filling up the middle space. Slifi /L//I ...Barton Fell p-' f^ ...Swaith Fell 5 ^ ...[Martindale Hause] ...Hartsop Fells ...Hallen Fell (line 2) ...Place Fell ...Stone Cross Pike ...Birk Fell ■••Dolly Waggon Pike ...Nether Cove Head ...Ilelvellyn High Man ••■Catthcty Cam (line 2) ...Helvellyn Low Man ...Herring Pike (line 3) ...Keppel Cove Head ...Kaise ...[Grecnside] ...Gowbarrow fe^W ( 15 ) ULLSWATER Ranks second in point of size, being nine miles long, but rather wanting in breadth : yet, on ac- count of its winding form, the disproportion is not so much observed. It has the greatest average depth of any of the lakes, being in many places from 20 to 35 fathoms. The country about its foot is rather tame; but its head is situated among some of the most majestic mountains, which are intersected by several glens or small vallies ; and their sides embellished with a variety of native wood and rock scenery. Three rocky islets ornament the upper reach of the lake; they are called Cherry-Holm, Wall- Holm, and House-Holm; the last of which is a fine station for viewing the surrounding country. This lake abounds with trout, which are some- times caught of very large size: char are like- wise found, but not of the best quality. Large shoals of a peculiar kind of fish are met with, called here the skelly ; and great quantities of eels are taken in the river Eamont, below Pooley Bridge, as they migrate from the lake in autumn. The foot of the lake seems to be embanked by a conglomerated mass of pebbles ; the same compo- sition forms the finely wooded hill called Dun- mallet, which stands like a centinel to guard the pass. The "mighty Helvellyn," flanked right and left by subordinate mountains, is seen in the most favourable point of view from Pooley Bridge. 16 ULLSWATER. The borders of the lake are ornamented with se- veral handsome villas. Ewesmere hill commands delightful prospects up the lake ; Colonel Salmond's beautiful residence at Waterfoot, retires from the view; on the borders of the lake are those of Rampsbeck Beau-Thorn, Lemon-House, and Old- Church; at a little distance Watermillock; and at Hallsteads, on a fine promontory with undulating grounds, John Marshall, Esq., has an elegant house. Lyulph's Tower is a hunting box, built by the late Duke of Norfolk in his deer park; and Airey Force may be seen by application to the keeper who resides here. Glencoin is a farm placed in a sweet recess, where a brook divides the counties of Cumberland and Westmorland. At the foot of Glenridding, the Rev. H. Askew has a tasteful cottage ; and towards the foot of Grisedale, the seat of W. Marshall, Esq., stands upon the site of the ancient Patterdale Hall. The only carriage road lies on the north-west side of the water, sometimes on a level with its surface, and commanding an unobstructed view; at other times deeply shaded in ancient woods, permitting only occasional glimpses of the lake; but on the opposite side the pedestrian will be well repaid for a ramble along Placefell and Birkfell. From the slate quarry there is a grand view of the mountains, just including the highest point of Hel- vellyn ; and from many parts of the path, and above it, the views are truly picturesque and beautiful. If the tourist aspires to more extensive pros- > -a G > CD •^ >-a r «=» .Place Fell .Cawdale Moor .Hartsop Dod .[Kirkstone Pass] .Red Screes .[Deepdale Park] .Blease ...Birks .Dolly Waggon Pike .[Grisedale] .Eagle Crag .Bleaberry Crag .Helvellyn Pile .Hall Bank (line 2; .[Raise] .[Glcnridding] .Greensidc .Herring Pike ..Glenridding Dod (1.2) BROTHERS WATER. 17 spects, they may be attained by climbing the mountain to a certain height ; where the lower extremity of the lake may be seen over the beauti- ful grounds of Hallsteads. This lake, like others, is most advantageously seen by commencing at its foot ; so that, whether by the road, or in a boat, the grandeur of the scenery is continually increasing as the traveller approaches the mountains; but the views from the lake are more open, and the water itself appears more spacious, from the boat on its surface, than from any elevation above it. There is a comfortable inn at Pooley Bridge, on the foot of the lake; and another at Patterdale, a little distance from its head. They both furnish boats upon the lake : and the long wanted medium of land conveyance is now supplied, by horses and post chaise being furnished both at Pooley Bridge and Patterdale. BROTHERS WATER, — So called from the circumstance of two brothers having been drowned together, by the breaking of the ice — is a small lake, situate in that part of Patterdale called Hartshop, on the road leading to and from Ambleside. In the latter direction, descending from the steeps of Kirkstone, its first appearance is always greeted with pleasure by the tourist in search of the picturesque; who considers it the commencement of a new series of beauties. c2 ( 18 ) HAWES WATER Is nearly three miles in length, and half a mile in breadth; it is almost divided into two parts by the projection of a plot of cultivated land from the N. W. side. Its head is encompassed by lofty mountains, but they exhibit less variety of outline than those of Derwent and UUswater. Its eastern side is bounded by Naddle Forest, the lower part completely wooded, and surmounted by the lofty Wallow Crag ; beyond which the hill side is scat- tered with aofed thorns. The western side has more cultivation, and a few farm houses sheltered by trees. The houses, with the exception of Mr. Boustead's, at Measand-beck, and Mr. Holmes', at Chapel hill, are mostly walled without mortar ; and the deciduous trees associate well with the rest of the scenery. Opposite the head of the lake, Castle Crag is a prominent feature in the landscape. This lake is well stocked with fish of various kinds ; but they are chiefly preserved for the table of Lowther Castle. Lying beyond the usual circuit of the lakes, and at a distance from the great roads and places of entertainment, Hawes Water is often omitted. But tourists, who can contrive to visit it without hurry or fatigue, will find it a sweet retired spot. There is a public house at Mardale Green, about a mile above the head of the lake ; and a spacious inn, with one of smaller dimensions, at Bampton Grange, a distance of two miles from its foot. . Nadtile Forpst (the lower part, which stretches into the lake, is called Guriies.) .Harter Fell . Riggindale (line 2) .Bleali-llow Crag (1. 4} .Castle Craa (line 3) .Birk Crag (line 3) .High Street .Whelter Crag (line 2) .Kidsev Pike .Lad Crag .Measand End . Knotts • Blenncrhasset ...[Fordendale] ...[liirker Gill] ( 19 ) BASSENTHWAITE LAKE Is of somewhat greater length than Derwent, but of less breadth, and without islands. Being fur- ther from the mountains, it is not viewed with the same interest as some other lakes. Its western side is rather too uniformly wooded, the eastern has a greater breadth of cultivation, on which side are some fine bays and promontories; but here the road recedes too far from the lake to exhibit it to advantage. However, tourists who have leisure for a ride or a drive of eighteen miles, round this lake, may obtain some pleasing views ; especially from the foot of the lake, and from some points of Wythop woods. This lake is of less depth than Derwent. Pike and perch are the principal fish : salmon pass through it, to deposit their spawn in the rivers Derwent and Greta, but are seldom met-^ith in the lake. BUTTERMERE LAKE, Situate in the valley of that name, is nearly en- compassed by superb rocky mountains. It is about a mile and a quarter in length, scarcely half a mile in breadth, and fifteen fathoms deep. Tourists visiting Buttermere, by way of Bor- rowdale, pass along the side of this lake; those who travel in carriages generally content them- selves with the view of it from a hill near the village. ( 20 ) CRUMMOCK LAKE Is nearly three miles in length, three quarters of a mile in breadth, and twenty-two fathoms deep. It is situated between the two lofty and pre- cipitous mountains of Grasmoor, on the eastern, and Melbreak, on the western side ; and, in com- bination with the more distant hills, it makes a beautiful picture. The best general views of the lake are from the rocky point on the eastern side, called the Hause; and from the road between Scale Hill and Lowes Water : and the views of the moun- tains, from the bosom of the lake, are excellent. On one side stands Grasmoor, with its lofty pre- cipitous front; on the other, Melbreak rises ab- ruptly from the water's edge; Whiteless Pike, Robinson, Rannerdale Knot, Fleetworth Pike, Honister Crag, Red Pike, High Stile, and the Haystacks, surmounted by Great Gable, all con- tribute to the magnificence of the scene. The distance between Crummock and Buttermere Lakes is short of a mile, of excellent arable land. Both these lakes are well stocked with trout and char, the latter of which are smaller in size, but perhaps not inferior in quality, to those of Win- dermere or Coniston. There is a comfortable inn at Buttermere, between the two lakes, and another at Scale Hill, on the foot of Crummock; at one of which places a boat is usually taken, as well for a survey of the scenery, as being the most conve- nient way of seeing the noted waterfall of Scale Force, on the opposite side of the lake. Witeless Pike .FleetworthPike ..Rannerdale Knot ..Great Gavel ••HayStacks(1.2) ...Melbreak ( 21 ; LOWES WATER, A small lake of about a mile in length, has given name to the parochial chapelry in which it is situ- ated. Shaping its course towards Crummock, its direction is contrary to that of the neighbouring lakes, from which it differs also, in another point: they generally exhibit the most interesting moun- tain scenery in looking towards the head of the lake ; this, on the contrary, is more tame towards its head, while at its foot the mountains appear of bolder forms. It is not the difference between one sheet of water and another, but the endless variety of scenery with which they are associated, that gives to every lake its peculiar character. Lowes Water, viewed from the end of Melbreak, exhibits a sweet rural landscape, the cultivated slopes being ornamented with neat farm-houses and trees : but, taking the view in an opposite direction, the lake makes a middle distance to a combination of moun- tains scarcely to be equalled. Parties who visit Lowes Water from Scale Hill, generally content themselves with a view from the place of its first presentation ; but those who ap- proach it from the west, have the advantage of beholding it in connection with a most magnificent assemblage of mountains. On the left, Grasmoor, Whiteless Pike, Robinson, and Rannerdale Knot; on the right, Burnbank and Carling Knot; in front, Melbreak rises in an aspiring cone, flanked by High Stile and Red Pike on one hand, and the perpen- dicular-fronted Honister Crag on the other. ( 22 ) ENNERDALE LAKE Is about two miles and a half in length, and three quarters of a mile in breadth. It is more difficult to obtain a good sight of this than of any other lake. The best general view may be had near How Hall ; but as the principal mountain scenery, with part of the lake, is seen to advantage from the road by which tourists generally pass from Wast Water to Lowes Water and Buttermere, few like to extend their journey two or three miles for any improvement to be made in the prospect. Pe- destrians, anxious to explore the inmost recesses of the mountains, may follow the lake to its head, and after passing the sequestered farm of Giller- thwaite, continue their route four or five miles along the narrow dale, by the transparent stream of the Lisa, which is fed by the crystal springs issuing from the side of the mountain ; and either turn to the left, by the pass called Scarf Gap, to Buttermere ; or to the right, over the Black Sail, to Wasdale Head. This way a horse might be taken, but it would be found more troublesome than useful. This lake is well stocked with trout: here is also an inferior kind of char, which enter the river in autumn to deposit their spawn ; contrary to the habits of those in the lakes of Buttermere and Crummock. There are two small public-houses at Ennerdale Bridge ; but not calculated to afford much accom- modation to travellers. ta M tx) W St ts> J t— 1 « M .Starling Dod .Red Pike .High Stile .High Crafr .Bowness Knot (line 3) .Latterbarrow (line 2) .Anclebarrow (line 3) .Wind Yate .Black Crag • Steeple .Hay Cock -) ...Revelin . Crag Fell ( 23 ) WAST WATER Is a lake full three miles in leno^tli, and more than half a mile in breadth. It has been recently sounded to the depth of 45 fathoms; but we have been told of a particular spot, where a line of double the length did not reach the bottom : which must at any rate be several fathoms below the level of the sea. It is probably owing to its great depth, in proportion to the extent of surface, that it has never been known to freeze; the duration of winter not being sufficient to cool the whole mass of water to that temperature which permits ice to be formed upon its surface. The fish of Wast Water are chiefly trout, with which it is well stored: it also contains a few char. Boats are kept by neighbouring gentlemen for the diversion of angling; and the appearance of the Screes from the lake is magnificent. At Nether Wasdale, about a mile and a half from the foot of the lake, there are two public houses where tra- vellers may have refreshment for themselves and horses: there is no other between this and Ros- thwaite in Borrowdale, a distance of fourteen miles, one third of which is very difficult mountain road. Wasdale Head consists of about half a dozen dwellings sheltered by trees, and a small Chapel, in the midst of an area of arable land, encircled by the loftiest mountains. A public house here is much wanted; the kind hospitality of the inhabi- 24 WAST WATER. tants being not unfrequently drawn upon by stran- gers; but it is expected that a license to entertain travellers will shortly be obtained by one of the householders. Bowderdale has a single farm- house, in a lateral valley opening near the mid- dle of the lake. At Crook Head, near the foot of the lake, Stansfield Rawson, Esq., of Halifax, has a neat Gothic summer residence, called Was- dale Hall. The mountains environing Wast Water are lofty and majestic. A shivery mountain side, called the Screes, bounds the lake on the south-east, extend- ing quite into the water; so that it cannot be passed on that side, even by a pedestrian, without considerable difficulty, and some danger. From some points of view, Yewbarrow forms a fine apex, while Kirkfell retires behind it; at the head of the dale the pyramidical Gable appears con- spicuous; Lingmeli comes boldly forward on the right, over which Scawfell and the Pikes reign pre-eminent; the Hay Cock may be seen through the lateral vale of Bowderdale, and the Pillar crowns the head of the branch called Mosedale : Middle- fell, running along the margin of the lake on the spectator's side, and the Screes on the opposite, complete the panorama. In short. Wast Water affords many peculiarities well worth visiting once, but scarcely sufficient to yield that increased de- gree of pleasure in a second and third inspection, which would be experienced on Derwent, Ulls- water, or Windermere. CD o CO ...Buckbarrow Pike ...Middlefell ^' v ...Sty Head Pass ...Lingraell •"Great-end Cra;; ...Scawfell Pike ...Scawfell ( 27 ) THE TARNS. There are numerous other receptacles of still water, which, being too small to merit the appella- tion of lakes, are called Tarns, \\lien placed in a principal valley, (which however is not often the case,) they contribute little to its importance; and being in such situations often environed with swampy ground, seem to represent the feeble re- mains of a once more considerable lake. But in a circular recess on the side of a vale, or on a moun- tain, as they are generally placed, their margins being well defined, they become more interesting. Reposing frequently at the foot of lofty precipices, and sometimes appearing as if embanked by a col- lection of materials excavated from the basin which they occupy, they afford ample room for conjecture as to the mode of their formation. Being shel- tered from the winds, their surface often exhibits the finest reflections of the rocks and surrounding scenery, highly pleasing to the eye of such as view them with regard to the picturesque; but it is more agreeable to the wishes of the angler, to see their surface ruffled by the breeze. Tarns in the Irihuturxj strecmis of Windeimere. Elterwater is one of the largest of the Tarns ; and having given its name to a small hamlet in Langdalc, it became necessary, in speaking of the 28 TARNS. water itself, to add the word tarn by way of dis- tinction. It is nearly a mile in lengtli, and divided into three parts. By the sudden influx of water from the two Langdales, the low meadows on its margin are frequently overflowed, and rendered wet and swampy. To obviate this, great pains have lately been taken in opening its outlet; by which means the dimensions of the water have been greatly contracted; and the fishery of trout has been nearly annihilated by the introduction of that voracious fish, the pike. Loughrigg Tarn is a circular piece of water of about twenty acres, environed by green meadows, intermixed with rocky woods and cultivated grounds. Its glassy surface displays beautiful reflections of the farm- houses, fields, and trees, surmounted by rocky steeps; and when taken in combination with Lang- dale Pikes in the distance, it makes an excellent picture. Littls Langdale Tarn, in the valley of that name, is one whcss consequence is less- ened by the swampiness of its shores. Blea Tarn, lying on the high ground between the two vales of Great and Little Langdale, has a small sequestered farm adjoining, which is called by its name. A view of this piece of water is enriched by the superb appearance of Langdale Pikes. Stickle Tarn, at the foot of Pavey-ark, a huge rock in connection with Langdale Pikes, is famous for the quality of its trout. Its dimensions have been greatly enlarged by its adaption as a reservoir for the gunpowder mills at Elter water. The stream TARNS. 29 falling into Langdale, at Millbeck, in a foaming cataract, may be seen at a distance. Codale Tarn is a small piece of water, containing a few trout, perch, and eels. It sends a small stream down a rocky channel into Easdale Tarn, which is one of the largest mountain tarns, seated in the western branch of Grasmere vale, among rocky precipices, of which Blakerigg, or Blea Crag, is the principal. Its stream is, from its frothy white- ness, called Sourmilk Gill, and, when well supplied with water, is a striking object from the road. Tarns i?i the environs of Ullswater. Ayes Water is of more extended dimensions than most of those called tarns; and is much fre- quented by anglers. The stream from it passes Low Hartshop, joining that from Brothers Water near the foot of the latter. Angle Tarn, lying north of the last, upon the mountain separating Patterdale from Martindale, is one of the smaller class; but of a curious shape, having two rocky islets, and a small broken peninsula. Its stream, in a quick descent, reaches the vale about half a mile further down. Grisedale Tarn, one of the larger class, lies in the junction of the three moun- tains, Helvellyn, Seatsandal,* and Fairfield. The * The rain water fallin;^ upon Seatsandal, runs into Winilor- mere, Ullswater, and Derwent; entering the sea by the river Leven into Morecainbe Bay ; by the Kdeu into the Solway Frith; and by the Derwent into the Irish Sea. 30 TARNS. Toad over the Hause, from Grasmcre to Patter- dale, passing the tarn, is accompanied by its stream down the vale of Grisedale, which unites with the parent valley near the Church. Red Tarn, also of considerable extent, containing upwards of twenty acres, is upon the highest level of any of the mountain tarns; being upwards of two thou- sand three hundred feet above the level of the sea, and about seven hundred feet below the summit of Helvellyn; from whence into it you might almost cast a stone. Keppel Cove Tarn is posited in a singular manner, not in the bottom of the glen, but in a kind of recess formed on one side; it is separated from Red Tarn by a narrow mountain ridge called Swirrel Edge, which branches off from Helvellyn and is terminated by a peak called Catsty Cam, modernized into Catchedecam; below which the two streams unite to form the brook of Glenridding. All these tarns afford good diver- sion for the angler: Keppel Cove produces a bright, well shapen trout; those of Angle Tarn are by some considered of superior flavour; but -when quantity as well as quality is taken into ac- count, Ayes Water may perhaps be allowed the pre-eminence. Tarns connected with Hawes Water. Small Water, rightly named, lies between Harter fell and High Street; and is passed by a mountain track leading from Kentmere to Mardale, over the TARNS. 31 hause called Nan Bield. Blea Water, separated from the last by a projection of High Street, lies at the foot of a lofty rock called Blea Water Crag. Before reaching the valley, their two streams be- come united, and passing Mardale Green, it makes the principal feeder of Hawes Water. Tarns in the Feeders of Conisfon Water. Two or three pools, between the hills on the north of Coniston Waterhead, are called simply the Tarns; while those in the western quarter have received the more dignilied.appellation of Waters. Levers Water, the largest, is situated in a wide valley, between the mountains Old Man and Wetherlam. Low Water, placed on the Old Man's side, belies its name, as it occupies the highest level. Their united streams, after a suc- cession of pretty waterfalls, pass Coniston Church, in their way to the lake. Gates Water [Goat's Water,] reposes between the Old Man's western side, and the foot of the precipitous Dow Crag, [Dove Crag.] Besides being, in common with the other tarns, stocked with trout, it also contains some char. Its stream forms the Rivulet of Tor- ver. Blind Tarn is a small reservoir of water without a stream. Beacon Tarn, a small one, near the foot of the lake. Seathwaite Tarn empties itself into the river Duddon ; it is separated from Levers Water, only by a narrow mountain ridge. 32 TARNS. In the rise of the river Kent, the mere, or tarn, giving to the valley in which it was situated the name of Kentmere, has been recently annihilated in the progress of agricultural improvement. Skeggles Water, on the heath clad mountain be- tween that and Longsleddale, is small and unin- teresting. Tarns tributary to Dericent Lake. A second Blea Tarn, containing excellent trout, is situated on the heathy mountain between Wyth- burn and Borrowdale. After a course of nearly two miles, the water is received by Watendlath* Tarn, which covers about a dozen acres; but nearly destitute of fish of any kind: the trout, for which it was once famous, have been destroyed by the introduction of their enemies, the pike; yet, on account of its romantic scenery, the valley of Watendlath is still worthy of being visited. It is the stream from these tarns which, after running two miles further, along a narrow valley, forms the famed cataract of Lowdore. 'Angle Tarn, stocked only with a few perch, lies on the north of Bowfell, in the head of the stream falling into the * A specimen of the diversity of local orthography: — Watendlath— DonaU, 1774. Watte7idleth— Clarke, 1780. Watanlath—West, 1 796. Watenlath — Hist. Cumb. 1794. Wordsworth, Green, Parson and White, Gilpin, Housman. Watendleth—\\&re, 1808. Watinluth — Alison, 1835. Wilkinson. TARNS. 33 branch of Borrowdale, called Laiigstreth. At the foot of Eagle Crag, this is joined by another stream, froni the branch of Greenup; and after passing Stonethwaite and Rosthwaite, joins the Seathwaite branch a little further down the vale. Sprinkling Tarn, of irregular shape, reposes under Great End Crajj: it abounds with excellent trout; but they are too well fed, or too wary, to be easily tempted by the bait of the angler. Sty-head Tarn, in some maps called Sparkling Tarn, lies about three quarters of a mile below the last, near the road to VVasdale. The water, which it receives from Sprinkling Tarn, seems to have been deprived of its nutritive qualities; as its fish are of a very inferior kind. The stream, running from thence towards Seathwaite, has some fine irothy fci'eaks, and one grand waterfall, before it reaches the bottom of the vale. Dock Tarn and Tarn of Leaves, one on the east side of Stonethwaite, the other between Seathwaite and Langstreth, are barely entitled to be mentioned. Harrop Tarn, though but a small piece of water, is the principal one belonging to Thirlmere. It lies on the western side of Wythburn, and its stream, called Dob Gill, passing a few houses, joins the rivulet in the vale a little before it reaches the lake. Scales Tarn, on the east end of the mountain Saddleback, is an oval piece of water, covering an area of tlircc acres and a half, its two diameters being 17G and 124 yards, its depth 18 feet; it is 34 TARNS. uninhabited by the finny tribe. Some very exag- gerated descriptions of this tarn have found their way into the History of Cumberland and other publications. From its gloomy appearance, occa- sioned by being overshadowed by steep rocks, its depth was supposed to be very great; and it has been represented as the crater of an extinct vol- cano; an assumption not supported by present appearances. Its stream, nearly encompassing Souterfell, is called the Glenderamakin, which, passing Threlkeld, joins that from Thirlmere to form the Greta. Bowscale Tarn, which empties itself into the Caldew, is seated in a basin, singularly scooped out in the side of a hill. Over Water lies to the north of Skiddaw, in the rise of the river Ellen. Burtness Tarn, or Bleaberry Tarn, lies on the south-west side of Buttermere, in a recess be- tween High Stile and Red Pike ; its stream forms the cataract called Sour-milk gill. Floutern Tarn serves as a land-mark in passing between Buttermere and Ennerdale; as Burnmoor Tarn does between Wasdale-head and Eskdale. De- voke Water, connected with the Esk near Raven- glass, is famous for the excellence of its trout, and as a place of resort for water fowl. There are some other small tarns, of little conse- quence in themselves, and seldom seen by strangers; therefore they scarcely require to be noticed. Such as Eel Tarn, Stony Tarn, and Blea Tarn, in Eskdale; Greendale Tarn, and the two Tarns above Bowderdale, in the Wasdale mountains. ( 35 ) >ys^f}cM:^ THE WATERFALLS. LowDoiiE Cascade constitutes one of the most magnificent scenes of its kind among the lakes. It is not a perpendicular fall, but a foaming cata- ract; the water rushing impetuously from a height of 360 feet, and bounding over and among the large blocks of stone with which the channel is filled; so that when the river is full, it is a striking object at three miles distance. To the left, the 36 WATERFALLS. perpendicular Gowder Crag, nearly five hundred feet high, towers proudly pre-eminent; while from the fissures of Shepherd's Crag on the right, the oak, ash, birch, holly, and wild rose, hang in wan- ton luxuriance. At the place where it is usually seen, more than half the height of the fall lies beyond the limits of the view, and in dry seasons there is a deficiency of water ; yet its splendid accompaniments of wood and rock render it at all times an object deserving the notice of tourists. Winding round Shepherd's Crag towards the top of the fall, and looking, between two finely wooded side screens, through the chasm in which the water is precipitated, a part of Derwent lake with its islands, beyond it the vale of Keswick, ornamented with white buildings, and the whole surmounted by the lofty Skiddaw — forms a pic- ture in its kind scarcely to be equalled. Barrow Cascade, two miles from Keswick, has an upper and lower fall, more perpendicular than that of Lowdore, and exhibits to advantage a smaller quantity of water. From the top of the fall, the lake and vale, when not intercepted by trees, are seen in fine perspective. White Water Dash, on the north of Skid- daw, is conspicuous from the road between Ireby and Bassenthwaite; and viewed from its foot, with the lofty Dead Crag on the right, is a good picture. WATERFALLS. 37 Scale Force, near Butterraere, is the deepest in all the region of the lakes : it is said to fall at once one hundred and fifty-two feet, besides a smaller fall below. The water is precipitated into a tremendous chasm, between two mural rocks of sienite, beautifully overhung with trees which have fixed their roots in the crevices; the sides clad with a profusion of plants which glitter with the spray of the fall. Visitors generally scramble past the lower fall and proceed along this chasm, where the air, filled with moisture and shaded from the sun, feels cool and damp as in a cellar; till the more copious sprinkling of the spray compels them to retrace their steps. AiREY Force, on Ullswater, is concealed by ancient trees, in a deep glen in Gowbarrow Park. The water, compressed between two cheeks of rock, rushes forth with great violence, and dashing from rock to rock, forms a spray, which, wath the sun in a favourable direction, exhibits all the co- lours of the rainbow. Skelwith Force is r.ot of great height, but it has the most copious supply of water of any cascade among the lakes. From Skelwith Bridge there is a road on the Westmorland side of the river, whence looking down upon the basin, the turmoil of the water appears very interestinj;; and just beyond this, there is a s^ood view of Elterwater: but, as a picture, the fall is better seen from the Lancashire E 38 WATERFALLS. side, where the Lano^dale Pikes, appearing be- tween the cheeks of the rock, make an excellent distance. Rydal Waterfalls. — The upper is a con- siderable cascade, pouring out its water, first in a contracted stream, down a perpendicular rock; and then, in a broader sheet, dashing into a deep, stony channel. The lower, being near the house, forms a beautiful garden scene. Stock Gill Force, at Ambleside, is a con- tinuation of four falls in one; it falls from a height of 70 feet; the water, divided into two streams, after a moment's rest in the middle of the rock, is finally precipitated into the deep, shaded channel below. HEAD OF STOCK GILL. WATERFALLS. 39 Dungeon Gill is a stream issuing between the two Pikes of Langdale. The water falls about 20 yards into an awful chasm, with overhanging sides of rock, between which a large block of stone is impended like the key-stone of an arch. CoLwiTH Force is a fine waterfall; and is but little out of the way, for those who make the tour through Little Langdale. BiRKER Force, on the south side of Eskdale, is a stream of water emitted between lofty rocks, and pouring from a great elevation down the hill side in a stripe of foam. Dalegarth Force, or Stanley Gill, on the same side of the valley, is a sublime piece of scenery. From the ancient mansion of Dalegarth Hall, now a farm house, a path has been formed, crossing the stream from side to side, three times, by lofty wooden bridges. The water falls, in suc- cessive cascades, over granite rocks, which rise on each side to a stupendous height, and are finely ornamented with trees, and fringed with a profusion of bilberry, and other plants, rooted in the crevices. Tayloji Gill is a dx"y chasm, meeting the stream of water from Sty-head Tarn near the head of the Seathwaite branch of Borrowdale; and below their junction is a lofty waterfall: a good object from the road to Wasdale. 40 RIVERS. SouR-MiLK Gill is a name applied to some mountain torrents, on account of their frothy white- ness resembling butter-milk from the churn. We have Sour-milk Gill near Buttermere, Sour-milk Gill in Grasmere, and Sour-milk Gill near the Black-lead Mine in Borrowdale. The above enumerated are some of the most noted of the falls : but tracing the mountain streams into their deep recesses, they present an inexhaustible variety : smaller indeed, but fre- quently of very interesting features. THE RIVERS Of this district are not of large dimensions ; but issuing from rocky mountains, and running in pebbly channels, the water they contain is re- markable for its clearness and purity. From the central cluster of mountains about Bowfell, Scaw- fell, and Gable, many of them derive their origin; others have their source in the neighbourhood of Helvellyn and High Street. The Derwent has its rise in Borrowdale; its branches are known by different names till it reaches the lake, from whence it is called the Derwent till it enters the sea. RIVERS. 41 The river issuing from Thirlmere, commonly called St. John's beck, has formerly been called the Bare; the one from Mungrisdale by Threl- keld Glendercanakin ; after their junction it takes the name of Greia, and receives the Glenderaterra from between Skiddaw and Saddleback; passing Keswick, it joins the Derwent, shortly after that river leaves the lake. In heavy rains the Greta sometimes rises so suddenly that it inverts the stream of the Derwent above their junction, so that the lake is for a short time literally filled from all quarters. The water issuing from Buttermere, Crummock, and Lowes Water, forms the river Cocher, which falls into the Derwent at the town named, from this circumstance, Cockermouth. The Ellen rises in the mountains north of Skid- daw, and passing Uldale, Ireby, and Ellenborough, falls into the sea at Maryport. The several becks of Patterdale unite in UUs- water, the river issuing from thence is called the Eaiaont; it receives the Lowther, from Hawes Water, Swindale, and Wetsleddale, near Brougham Castle ; and is afterwards absorbed in the Eden, which enters the Solway Frith a little below Car- lisle ; having first received the Pellerill, which rises near Greystoke, and the Caldeic, from the east side of Skiddaw. Two small streams, crossing the road between Kendal and Shap, fall into the Lune — which at Kirkby Lonsdale is a fine river, and crossed by a e2 42 RIVERS. lofty antique bridge; it is navigable at Lancaster, a little below which place it falls into the sea. The Kent, rising in Kentmere, receives the Sprint from Longsleddale, and the Mint from Bannisdale. It washes the skirts of Kendal, and enters the sea near Miluthrop, where it is joined by the Belo. The becks of Great and Little Langdale, com- bined in Eltericatei', form the Brathay, and those of Grasmere and Rydal the Rothay, which unite in Windermere : after leaving the lake, it is called the Leven, which joins the Crake from Coniston upon the sands below Penny Bridge. The Duddon rises on the south of Bowfell, and separates Cumberland from Lancashire. Unre- tarded by any lake, it pursues its course in a pretty transparent stream, and enters the sea on the north of the Isle of Walney. The Esk, rising on the east of Scawfeil, retains its name till it enters the sea at Ravenglass; where the Iri from Wasdale, and the Mite from Miter- dale, join it upon the sands. The Bleng, passing Gosforth, falls into the Irt above Santon Bridge. The water flowing from the north side of Gable runs in along meandering stream down Ennerdale; it is called the Lisa till it enters the lake; afterwards it is the Ehen till it falls into the sea, half way be- tween Ravenglass and St. Bees. The Calder enters the sea near the same place. ( 43 ) THE MOUNTAINS Of the Lake district are of sufficient elevation to command extensive prospects over the surrounding country; yet not so high as to create any disagree- able sensations in climbing their slopes, or tra- versing their ridges, in favourable weather. Their magnitude imparts a sublimity to the scenery, without overcharging the picture with any disproportionate objects. The rocks and ravines on their sides convey some knowledge of the materials whereof they are composed; and, by their variety of soil and elevation of surface, they are adapted to the production of different kinds of vegetables. In the summer season the bottoms of the glens are grazed by cattle; the flocks ascend their steeps, and nibble a scanty sustenance from the blades of grass peeping out between the stones on the high- est summits. Some of the sheep are annually ckawn from the flock, and placed in the inclosurcs to fatten— and they make excellent mutton; but many remain upon the commons during winter, when, in deep snows, the occupation of the shep- herd becomes arduous. Foxes breed in caverns on the mountains; but being accused of the destruction of young lambs and poultry, the shej)licrds declare war against them whenever they are found. A few Red Deer are still remaining upon the Fells of Martindale. Kao-lcs, which half a century ago were frequently 44 MOUNTAINS. seen in their lofty flights over these mountains, are not now to be met with. Though they built their nests in the most inaccessible rocks, the shepherds were so bent upon their destruction, that they con- trived, by the help of ropes, annually to take away or destroy either the eggs or the young; till at length the species has been wholly exterminated from the country. A small bird called the Dotterel is found upon Skiddaw, and other high mountains. Grouse breed in parts thickly covered with heath. About the latter end of October, Woodcocks begin to arrive, and are frequently met with on the woods and commons bordering on some of the lakes. SKIDDAW. A view of the country, from at least one of the eminent mountains of the district, is considered as forming a part of the tour, by those who can mus- ter strength and resolution for the undertaking; and for this purpose Skiddaw is, on several ac- counts, generally selected. It is nearest to the station at Keswick, most easy of access, as ladies may ride on horseback to the very summit; and standing in some measure detached, the view, especially to the north and west, is less intercepted by other mountains. Skiddaw is the supreme of a group of mountains about thirty miles in circumference; including Saddleback, Carrock, and the Caldbeck fells: its ^^ t3) ...HuUock ...Long Side ...Carlside ...Carsleddam (line 2) >-