/ ^ /- VIEW OP DEVONSHIRE IN MDCXXX, WITH A PEDIGREE OF MOST OF ITS GENTRY, BY THOMAS WESTCOTE, GENT. EDITED BY THE REV. GEORGE OLIVER, D. D., AND PITMAN JONES, ESQ. EXETER: WILLIAM ROBERTS, 197, HIGH-STREET. 1845. risAACFOO'f' [___USRARY_ EXETER ; PRINTED BY WILLIAM ROBERTS; 197, HIGH-STREET. TO BALDWIN FULFORD, OF FULFORD, Esq.: Sir, Allow us to introduce to the Public, through your auspices, the hitherto unpubhshed Works of Westcotk, namely, his " View op Devonshire" and the "Pedigree of most of its Gentry." The supply of this desideratum in the History of the County, after two centuries, will be welcomed by a discerning Public, under the sanction and patronage of one who inherits, as you do, the merits and virtues of a long Une of Ancestors — who is justly regarded as the beau ideal of an English Gentleman ; and who possesses the confidence, esteem, and respect of all parties. That you may long adorn your sphere of usefulness, and be hailed as the pride of Devonshire, and the dehght of your worthy Family and numerous Friends and Admirers, is the hearty wish of us, who have the honour to be Yom- obhged Servants, GEORGE OLIVER. PITMAN JONES. WILLIAM ROBERTS. CONTENTS. BOOK I. CHAF. PAGE. I. Whence Devonshire is said to take name, and the divers opinions thereof. . 19 II. When the Danmonian Province was severed, and the limits thereof 25 III. Of the extent and bounds of Danmonia 29 IV. Of the limits, hundreds, market towns, and parishes in the County of Devon 31 V. Of the temperature of the air, and the nature of the Inhabitants 33 VI. Of the soil, beasts, fowl, fishes, grain, and fruits 35 VII. The constitution, nature, and quality of the Inhabitants 42 VIII, Of the sundry degrees of the Inhabitants, and the distinction of their vocations 44 IX. The second degree is of Yeomanry and Husbandmen 48 X. Of the Merchant, which is the third degree 51 XI. Of the last degree, which is Day-Labourers in Tin-works, and Hirelings in Husbandry 52 XII. Of the Commodities this Country yields, and of Agriculture and Husbandry 54 XIII. Of the second Commodity, of Clothing and Drapery 59 XIV. Of Mines and Quarries of Stone ; and of the several sorts of either of them 63 XV. Of Mariners, Shipping, and Fishing 67 XVI. The several Governments of this County distinguished : and first of the Ec- clesiastical 69 XVII. Of the Martial Government, with the chief and other Commanders 71 XVIII. Of the Civil or Politic Government : being the third 73 XIX. Of the Admiralty and Government for Maritime and Sea Causes 75 XX. The Stannary Laws and Government which concern Tinners and Tin Causes 75 XXI. The description of the Forest of Dartmoor where Tin is mined 79 XXII. Of certain Tenants of the Forest called Fenfield-men 84 XXIII. Of the Forest of Exmoor 88 BOOK II. I. An entrance into the East Division, together with the original and progress of the River Exe 93 II. Of the Hundred of Bamptou, containing six Parishes 96 III. Of the Hundred of Tiverton, containing five Parishes 98 CONTENTS. CHAP. PAGE. IV. The Hundred of Halberton containeth three parishes 105 v. The progress of the River Culrae 112 VI. The original and progress of Greedy River 118 VII. Of Crediton and the Bishops thereof 120 VIII. Of the farther progress of the River Greedy, and the places adjacent 127 IX. Of the progress of the River Greedy to Cowley-Bridge, where it joins with Exe 131 X. Of the Antiquity and divers Names of the Gity of Exeter 135 XI. Of the Situation and Places worthy observation in this City 138 XII. Of the Dukes, Marquises, and Earls of Exeter 142 XIII. Of the Monasteries and Aims-Houses belonging to the City of Exeter 145 XIV. Of Bedford House and the noble Family of the Russells 147 XV. Of the Guildhall, Magistrates, and the several Corporations thereof 149 XVI. Of the Cathedral-Church of St. Peter's. — The antiquity and building thereof 153 XVII. Of the Bishops and other Dignitaries of the Church of Exeter 157 XVIII. The Bishops of Exeter after the Reformation 172 XIX. The Bishops of Exeter since the present Author's time unto this day, Oc- tober 20th, 1695, by John Prince 176 XX. Of the Inferior Dignitaries of the Church of Exeter 180 XXI. The Monuments and Epitaphs in Saint Peter's Cathedral, Exon 182 XXII. An Epilogue or Conclusion on the View of Exeter 184 XXIII. Of the progress of the River Exe below Exeter 185 BOOK III. I. Of the Circuit of the River Glyst 191 II. Of Powderham Castle and the Noble Family of Courtenay 200 III. A Catalogue of the Earls and Dukes of Devon before the Conquest 203 IV. Of the Earls of Devon after the Conquest, and First of Redvers 204 V. Of the right noble Family of the Courtenays, Earls of Devon . 208 VI. Of those other noble Families which have since been Earls of Devon .... 217 VII. Of Kenn, and some other places on the west side of the River Exe 218 VIII. Of places on the east side of the River Exe 223 IX. The Passage of the River Otter 224 X. Of Ottery St. Mary, and other places near it 229 XI. Of Colaton-Ralegh and Sir Walter Ralegh 236 XII. Of Budleigh Hundred in the East 240 XIII. Of Golyton Hundred and the Parishes adjacent to that Town 241 XIV. The Progress of the River Axe, and the Hundred of Axminster 245 XV. The Conclusion which should be the epiphonema of this Discovery 248 BOOK IV. I. An entrance into the view and visit of the North Division 250 II. Of Comb-Martin and the Silver Mines there 252 CONTBNTS. CHAP. PAGE. III. Of Berry-Neibert, Bowdon, and Bishop Jewel 256 IV. Of Morthoe Tracy, and Mort-Stone 259 V. Of George-Ham and Pidickwell 263 VI. Of the River Taw, his spring and progress 265 VII, Of Affton and the Family of Stukely 270 VIII. Of Chulmleigh, and the Countess of Devon saving seven little Children that were carrying to be drowned „, : . . 273 IX, Of Rings-Ash, with the original and course of the River Mole 276 X. Of Holland Botreaux, the Nymets, and other places near by 280 XI. Of the meeting of Mole and Taw, & their passage afterwards to Umberlegh 283 XII. Of Brightlegh and the Family of Giffard 286 XIII. Of Tawton-Bishop, Goodley, Newland, &c 289 XIV. Of Tawstock, and the noble Family of the Bourchiers, Earls of Bath 292 XV. Of the Borough of Barnstaple with the Description of the Town, with the History of the Lord Audlegh 294 XVI. Of the progress of the River Yeo, of Chalacombe with the strange Burrows therein, with some other neighbouring Parishes 300 XVII. Of Youlston and Ralegh, and the noble Family of the Chichesters 303 XVIII. Of Marwood and the Family of Westcote, with other Places and Families in that tract 305 XIX. Of West-Down and the Hundred of Braunton 308 XX. The origin and course of the River Torridge, with Hercules-Promontory. . 311 XXI. Of the progress of the River Torridge, and the most eminent places near its first original, as Putford, and the Hundred of Shebbear 315 XXII. Of the Hundred of Black-Torrington and places adjoining 317 XXIII. Of the progress of the River Okement, and of Okehampton 321 XXIV. Of Iddesleigh, Winkleigh, and other places in the way to Torrington .... 324 XXV. Of Torrington, and therein of the potent Families of RoUe, Barry, &c 327 XXVI. Of Monkley, and the Family of Hankford 331 XXVII. Of Buckland- Brewer, Parkham, Bideford, & the noble Family of Grenville 335 XXVIII. Of Westleigh, Northam, Kenith Castle, and Abbotsham 341 XXIX. Of the Island of Lundy, lying near this county, in the Severn Sea 343 XXX. The Conclusion of this Northern Journey 345 BOOK V. I. The origin and progress of the River Tawmeer (Tamar) 346 II. Of Tamerton, Collacombe, and the Family of Tremayn 352 III. The origin of the River Lyil of Lydford, his antiquities and present state. . 355 IV. Of Trenchard-Lew, Marystow, Lifton, & other places in our way to Tavistock 361 V. Of the progress of the River Tavy, & of the Borough & Abbey of Tavistock 365 VI, Of the progress of the Tamar to the town of Plymouth by Buckland, Beer, Tamerton, &c 372 CONTENTS. CHAP. PAGE. VII. Of Plymouth : and therein of Sir Francis Drake and Sir John Hawkins. . 376 VIII. Of the progress of the River Plym, & its issue at Plympton, Plymstock, &c. 383 IX, The origin and progress of the River Yealm, his issue and neighbours .... 388 X. The River Arme, (Erme,) and the progress thereof 390 XL Of Kingston, R ingmore, Ugborough, and other places in our way to Kings- bridge and near those parts 396 XII. Of Stokenham, Black-Awton, and other places near there about 400 XIII. The River Dart's proceeding, and what places he passeth by 403 XIV. The Antiquity and Description of Totnes . 409 XV, Of Ashprington, Brixham, Greenway, (and there of the ancient Family of Gilbert,) and other places in our way to Dartmouth 419 XVI. The Port-town of Dartmouth, Paignton, Torr, and Cockington ; with the noble Family of Gary 424 XVII, Of Chagford, Drewsteignton, Gidlegh; with the noble Family of Prouz . . 429 XVIII. Of Cheriton, Dunsford, Bridford, Dunchideock, Ashton, and other places in our way to Chudleigh 434 XIX. Of Chudleigh, Bovey, Newton, Ogwell, and Haccombe; wherein of the noble Family of Carew; with some other places and families 437 XX, Of Combinteignhead, the Teigntons, Teignmouth, Dawlish, and Mamhead 441 Author's Apology 446 PEDIGREE. P.iGE, Ameredith of Crediton and Slapton . . 596 Arscot of Arscot 489 Arscot of Annery 490 Arscot of Tidwell 490 Arscot of Holsworthy 490 Arscot of Tetcot 491 Arundell of Talvern 476 Arundell of Lanhern 477 Ashford of Ashford 481 Atwill of Kenton and Mamhead .... 612 Babington of Knoll 473 Bampfield of Poltimore 491 Barry of Winscot 556 Basset of Umberlegh 485 Battishill of Westwyke 540 Bear of Hunsham 461 Beaumout of Gittesham 498 Becket 458 PAGE, Becket in Menwynyk 459 Bennet of Chudleigh 619 Berry of Croscombe 496 Berry of Berry-Nerber 497 Berry of Barley 497 Bishop of Choldash 557 Bluet of Holcombe-Rogus 512 Bodleigh (alias Bodley) of Dunscombe 499 Bonvile of Comb-Ralegh 465 Bourchier, Earl of Bath 460 Bowerman of Hemyock 518 Broughton of Warbrightleigh 632 Brown of Brownlarsh 589 Budokeside of Budokeside 465 BuUon, Earl of Ormond & Wiltshire 482 Burgoin of South-Tawton 476 Burgoin of Bideford 551 Burneby of Burneby . . 494 CONTENTS. Bury (alias Berry) of Berry-Nerber 495 Bury (alias Berry) of Coleton 496 Butler, Earl of Ormond and Wiltshire 483 Callard of Callard 582 Calwodeley of Calwodeley 514 Gary of Castle-Cary 507 Gary of Hunsdon 509 Gary of Gockington 510 Gary of Clovelly 510 Garew of East Anthony 528 Carwithen of Carwithen, &c 552 Challons 614 Charles of Moreton and Tavistock . . 541 Cheyney of Pinhoe 518 Ghichester, Viscount Carrickfergus . . 608 Ghichester of Ralegh 604 Ghichester of Arlington 607 Ghichester of Hall 608 Ghichester of Widworthy 609 Ghudleigh of Ashton 462 Globerry of Bradston 555 Glotworthy of Clotworthy, &c 480 Glotworthy of Clotworthy 563 Cole of Slade, &c 519 Colins of Baron's-Down 562 Colleton of Exeter 619 Cooke of Thome 555 Copleston of Copleston & Warlegh . . 503 Copleston of Bow 505 Copleston of Bicton and Eggesford . . 505 Copleston of Otterham and Woodland 506 Copleston of Bowdon 506 Copleston of Wyke 506 Cottle of Sampford-Peverell, &c 475 Gourteuay, Earl of Devon 570 Gourtenay of Powderham 573 Gourtenay of MoUand 574 Gourtenay of Wotton and Ladock . . 575 Gourtenay of Upcott 576 Gourtenay of Ugbrook 576 Crocker of Lynham 550 Gruwys of Cruwys-Morchard 516 b PiGG. Culme of Chamston 515 Davils of Balston, &c 611 Davy of Sandford 598 De Aubernon of Daubernon 517 Dennis of Holcombe-Burnell & Bicton 615 Dennis of Orlegh 616 Dennis of CoUiscomb 617 Dennis of Malcot 617 Desmond, Earl of 477 Dillon of Ghimwell 549 Dinham 494 Donne of Donne-Ralph 515 Dowrish of Dowrish in Sandford .... 618 Dowrish of Heath-Barton, Whitestone 618 Drake of Ash 467 Drew of Sharpham, &c 582 Drew of Drews Cliff, &c 583 Duke of Poer-Hayes, &c 559 Edgcombe of Stonehouse, &c 494 Edmonds of Salisbury and Plymouth 524 Ellacot of Exeter 479 Esse (or Ash) of Thuborough 633 Esse (or Ash) of Glist Fomison .... 633 Eston of Eston 565 Evelegh of West Evelegh, &c 563 Farringdon of Farringdon 464 Farringdon of Farringdon 609 Fitz of Fitz-Ford 466 Floyer of Floyers-Hayes 556 Forde of Chagford, &c 527 Ford of Fordmoor 528 Fortescue of Filleigh, &c 498 Fortescue of Wimpston 625 Fortescue of Buckland-Filleigh .... 625 Fortescue of Fallopit 626 Fountain of Bawcombe 548 Fowel of Fowelscombe 521 Franceis of Combe-Flory .... 462 Frankcheyney of Glist-Gerard 517 Fry,of Exeter and Pawlet 502 Fulford of Fulford 612 Fursland of Bickington 598 ,-i\' f%. 14 3v6 CONTENTS. PAGE. Gale of Dartmouth and Crediton .... 567 Gay of Goldsworthy 564 Geare of Heavitree 565 Giffard of Brightlegh 627 Giffard of Weare 628 Giffard of Tiverton 628 Gilbert of Compton 566 Giles of Bowden and Dean Prior. . . . 530 Godwine of Clistwill and Godwins . . 540 Gove (alias Gough) of Woodbury . . 547 Grenville of Stow, Cornwall 630 Grenville of Penheale 631 Hakewell of Exeter 545 Haadcock of Comb-Martin 560 Harris of Hayne 531 Harris of Lanrest 532 Harris of Radford 532 Hatch of Aller 603 Haydon of Lympstone, &c 579 Hele of South-Hele 533 Hele of Wisdom 533 Hele of Wembury 533 Hele of Holbeton 534 Hele of Exeter and Fleet 535 Hele of Newton-Ferrers 535 Hele of Brixton 535 Henscot of Henscot 589 Herle of West-Herle 514 Hext of Kingston 503 Hill of Shilston 503 Hillersdon of Hillersdon, &c 529 Holbeam of Holbeam 502 Holcomb of Holcomb 531 Hone of Ottery St. Mary 538 Honychurch of Tavistock, &c 591 Hoper of Blackmore 525 Huckmore of Bokeyt 501 Huddisfield of Shillingford 500 Huish of Denniford 488 Huishof Sand 488 Hull of Larkbear 517 Hurst of Exeter and Oxton . 487 PiGE. Jewell of Bowden 536 Kelly of Kelly 540 Kenisham of Brixton 566 Kendal of Treworgy, &c 598 Kildare, Earl of . . . , 477 Kirkham 458 Kirkham of Blackdon, &c 523 KnoUes of Little-Hempston 474 Langford of Langford 462 Larder of Pynes 624 Le Hart of Yarnacombe 603 Levermore of Exeter 597 Lippincot of Lippincot, &c 554 Loveis of Ogberd in Tamerton 629 Lowman of Uplowman, &c 580 Lumen, or De Lumine, of Uplowman 579 Lutton of Cofford 478 Lynne of Exeter 457 Mallock of Axmouth 548 Marshall of Teigngrace 502 Marshall of Exeter, &c 502 Martin of Comb-Martin 594 Marwood of Westcot 604 Mathew of Dodbrook, &c 599 Melhuish of Witheridge 623 Mohun of Hall in Cornwall 610 Molford of Chulmleigh, &c 603 Montague, Lord Chief Justice 633 More of Moorhays 624 Munck of Potheridge 468 Newcombe of Great- Worthy 531 Newcourt of Pickwel 478 Noble of Exeter and Belston 561 Norris of Chulmleigh 541 Norris of Winkleigh 626 Northcote of Uton, &c 599 Parker, (alias Jorden) of Northmolton 538 Parker of Exeter 564 Passemere of Passemere-Hayes .... 525 Paulet of Sampford-Peverel 488 Pawlet of Rode, Hinton, &c 474 Perriam of Exeter, &c 584 CONTENTS. Pery of Water in Membury 545 Petre of Tor-lkian 546 Pointingdon of Penny cott 547 Pointingdon of Meryfield 547 . Pollard of King's-Nymet 493 Pollard of Way and Horwood 552 Pollard of Knowston-Beauple 553 Preston of Up-Ottery, &c 588 Prestwood of Exeter, North-Huish, &c. 545 Prideaux, Sir Edmund, of Farvvay . . 472 Prideaux of Orchardton & Thuborough 470 Prideaux of Orchardton 471 Prideaux of Soldon 472 Prideaux of Nutwell 486 Prouse of Exeter 597 Prouz of Gidley and Chagford 568 Prye of Horwell in Colebrook 611 Putt of Gittisham , 629 Pyne of East-Down, &c 544 Ralegh of Fardel 535 Reynell of Trumpington, &c 576 Reynell of Malston 578 Reynell, Sir Richard 578 Reynell of Greedy- Widger 578 Risdon of Bableigh 507 Roberts of Comb-Martin 609 Rolle of Stevenstone 593 Roskimer of Haylford, Cornwall .... 632 Rouse (alias Le Rouse) of Modbury 580 Sainthill of Sainthill, &c 537 Samuel of Restormel 533 Samuel of Cornwall 623 Sapcotts 551 Saverey of Totnes 562 Seward of Slokeinteignhead 559 Seymour of Berry-Pomeroy 479 Shapcott of Exeter 602 ShillingfordofShillingford 468 Skinner of Cowley 599 Slader of North-Tawton, &c 524 Slanning of Ley 563 Somaster 551 Somaster of Painsford 551 Somaster of Widecombe 500 Southcote of Mohun's-Ottery 537 Staplehill of Bremble in Ashton .... 624 Staveley of East-Buckland, &c 562 St. Leger of Annery 483 Stowford of Stowford 592 Strode of Ermington and Newnham 542 Strechlegh of Strechlegh 514 Stukeley of Kenn and Faringdon .... 579 Stukeley of Affeton 585 Sture of Marridge 512 Thorn of Thorn in Holsworthy 525 Todenham of Church-Taunton 478 Tothill of Exeter and Peamore 520 Trelawriey of Pool in Menhenniot . . 561 Tremayne of CoUacomb 587 Trevillian of Nettlecombe 558 Tucker (alias Tooker) of Exeter 526 Upton of Puslinch and Trelaske .... 519 Vowel (alias Hooker) of Exeter .... 526 Wadham of Edge 634 Waller of Sidbury and Hampshire . . 623 Walrond 484 Waltham of Brenton, &c 583 Warr of Hestercombe 491 Westcote (alias Lyttleton or Luttle- ton) of Frankley 621 Westcote of Westcote and Raddon . . 622 Whitlock of Frithelstock 583 Whyddon of Chagford, &c 581 Wichalse of Chudleigh 627 Williams of Stowford 521 Willoughby of Knoll-Adrian, Wiltshire 619 Willoughby, Lord Brook 620 Willoughby of Payhembury 620 Wise of South-Sydenham 553 Wivellof Crediton 611 WoUacomb of Comb 539 Wood(alias de Bosco)of North-Tawton 589 Wood of Lewtrenchard . 590 Wood (alias Atwood) of Hareston , . 591 CONTENTS. PAGE. ^^''^^ Worth of Exeter, &c 561 Yeo of Heanton-Sachville 592 Worthal of Cotley 629 Yeo of Huish 593 Wrey of Wrey. &c 567 Yeo of Hatherleigh 593 Wykes of North-Wyke 557 Yerworth of Ipplepen 524 Wykes of Bindon 558 Young of Axminster, &c 600 Yard of Bradley, &c 601 Zoiich, Lord John 475 MEMOIR OP THOMAS WESTCOTE. A Devonshire Family of some repute, bearing the name of Westcote, was established at an early period at Westcote, in the Parish of Marwood, near Barnstaple. One of its members of the name of Thomas, in the former part of the fifteenth century, married Ehzabeth, daughter and heiress of Sir Thomas Lyttelton, of Fraukley, in the county of Worcester, knight : the fruit of this union was that celebrated Lawyer and Chief Justice of the King's Bench, Sir Thomas Lyttelton,* Knight of the Bath, who died on the 23rd of August, 1481. From the silence of Sir WHham Pole we are dis- posed to think that the subject of this memoir was not descended (though he himself entertained such a belief,) from the Family in the Parish of Marwood. Perhaps his came originally from the parish of Bishop's-Taw- ton, in Devonshire; at least we read in the Register of Edmund Stafford, Bishop of Exeter, vol. i. foho 149, that this noble Prelate, in considera- tion of the faithful services rendered by Richard Westcote, of the manor of Bishop's-Tawton, manumitted and discharged him and his offspring on the 23rd of April, 1412, "a Jugo et onere nativitatis, \nllenagii et servitutis cum tot^ sequel^ suii." About a century later Thomas Westcote, the Grandfa- ther of our Historian, and Heraldist, held an Estate in West-Raddon, in the Parish of Shobrook, Devon, of Sir John Talbot, of Grafton, in the county of Worcester, knight, and Margaret (Troutbeck), his wife. This Estate was subsequently purchased by the Westcotes of the Talbots ; but certainly later than October, 1589, as the Talbot Rental of that year sufficiently proves. Thomas Westcote, the author of "The View of Devonshire," and of * A f 5 ^^sstcote ; Argent, a chevron between three escallops, sable. t Lyttelton ; Argent, a bend cotized sable, within a bordure, bezanty, gules. IV, MEMOIR OF THOMAS WESTCOTE. " The Pedigrees of most of our Devonshire Families,"* now for the first time submitted to the public, was the third son of Philip Westcote, of West-Raddon, who married Katharine, daughter of George Waltham, of Brenton, in the Parish of Exminster, Devon, gentleman. Their marriage was celebrated on the 17th of October, 1557 : as we learn from the Re- gister of Shobrook, which also records the baptism of our Author on the 17th of June, 1567. Speaking of Shobrook, he says, "Here my poor'"se!IF was first'nursed.'' Of liis early life we can glean but slender materials. In liis Apologetical Epistle to the Reader, he says, "Alas ! Sir, you know, how httle I busie myself with, and among so many offices the Country yields, I could procure none, nor any friend that would sohcit for me." To the objection started, "that in his youth he was a soldier, a traveller, and a courtier, and had now a long time retired to a private country hfe, and in his old and latter age little qualified for undertaking a work of such magnitude, which required not only labour, but painful travels and expenses ;" he rephes, that " having by ordinary reading, observation, search, and discourse, collected long since some few particulars of the antiquities and other notes and observings of this County, it was my chance (as often I did ) to come in presence of an honourable personage ( Edward, Earl of Bath,) whose eminent virtues assure me he is now with God : — it pleased him in discourse of the state of this Country to propose certain questions to those that were present : to some of them, when I had given a more satisfying answer than he on the sudden expected, he perceived I had a great desire that some one would undertake the Description of tliis Shire, as Mr. Carew had done for Cornwall, He thereon took opportunity to be the primum mobile of this Discourse; and at the next fit convenience did poweifully persuade, and he cheerfully animated and seriously required me to undertake tliis work, (as he was pleased to term it office;) and not to sufifer the ancient renown of the generosity of this Province to be any longer neglected and buried in obhvion, which had bred so many famous men in all professions." At first Mr. Westcote, pleading his inabiUty ♦ A Manuscript on Heraldry, belonging to the Dean and Chapter of Exeter, had been described to the Editors as having been written by Mr. Westcote, but on collation it was found to have been more ancient; beginning with 1573, and finished about the period of the Heralds' last visitation in 1620; neither was it confined to Devonshire. From page 9, we may infer that it was compiled by Richard St. George, esq., Norroy king of arms. MEMOIR OF THOMAS WESTCOTE. V. and unfitness, declined the undertaking; but his Lordship would admit no excuse; and "his continued persuasions encouraged mv faintness for a brief private discourse," but which the author never intended for pubhcation. Mr. Risdon, " his worthy friend," testified, in page 95, of his " Survey of Devon," "that Mr. Westcote was endowed with many good parts, and was a lover of antiquity;" and several passages of the work prove that he was acquainted with the best society in the county. Every reader wall give Mr. Westcote credit for his laborious zeal to pre- serve the remembrance of past times; and though in these days of deeper research and more refined criticism, he may smile at the author's credulitv and far fetched observations, yet he will be disposed to make every allowance for the age, and will be entertained with the quaintness, candour, and good » humour of his guide. What is inserted between brackets in the text has f been added by the Rev. John Prince, Author of the " Worthies of Devon." I As to his " Pedigrees of most of our Devonshire Families" it is evident, that he is chargeable with some egregious mistakes and errors, to which , Mr. Prince has added many more. We have done what we coiild to revise I and correct several; but regret that we are unable to present this Work to i the reader with more satisfaction to ourselves. In all probability Mr. Westcote resided at West Raddon, with his elder brother, Robert, who died a bachelor, and was buried on the 6th of March, / 1636, old style,* but whom Mr. Prince, in his " Worthies of Devon," page j 757, kills many years before. The second brother was George ; a captain in the army, who perished in * The Will of this Robert Westcote, of Raddon, in Shobrook, Gentleman, bears date the 20th of February, a fortnight before his burial. He desires to be silently buried near the feet of his parents, at Shobrook. " For my worldly goods I need not trouble myself about to distribute it. It may be done with ease, having so little, I may say, none. But had I been greedy of wealth I had means suflBcient to have been rich. But I thank my good God that his word persuaded me to neglect it, and not to be careful for to morrow, every day yielding to me what was needful." He gives to the Warden and Overseers of the Poor of Shobrook si.x pounds as a perpetual stock for the benefit of such poor ; so that it shall be put out at the interest of eight shillings, " which shall be distributed to eight of the poor inhabitants of Shobrook, of twelve pence a-piece on the feast of St Thomas." [21st December.] He mentions his dearly loving and careful sister-in-law, Mrs. Mary Westcote, and bis faithful loving brother, Mr. Thomas Westcote; and he appoints his nephew, Philip Westcote, his sole executor. The Will was proved at Exeter, 20th August, 1637. VI. MEMOIR OF THOMAS WESTCOTE. May, 1589, at the age of twenty-seven, in the disastrous expedition against Lisbon in favour of Don Antonio. We have it in evidence that the third brother, Thomas Westcote, in 1624, was holding a lease of Thorn-Park in the neighbouring parish of Holcombe- Bumell, and four years later was, by deputy, discharging the office of Church- warden of Shobrook. In the Act Book of Bishop Hall is a licence to Thomas Westcote, of Shobrook, gent., dated 19th October, 1632, to eat flesh meat on prohibited days, and during the Lent next ensuing : the said hcence to hold good for one twelve -month. That he was buried at Shobrook is certain, but unfortunately the leaf containing the list of interments from the 17th of April, 1639, to the 29th of July, 1644, has been wantonly cut out from the Parochial Register. Our author married Mary, eldest daughter and co-heiress of Richard Roberts, of Comb-Martin, in the County of Devon, gentleman,* by whom he had one son and four daughters, who survived him. First, Philip, who married Elizabeth, eldest daughter of George Tanner, alias Mortymer, of Creely, in the parish of Farringdon, Devon, gentleman, by whom he left issue, Thomas, who, according to Prince, " ruined his * Arms of Roberts ; Azure, on a chevron argent, three mullets pierced sable. Before the porch in the Church-yard of Comb-Martin was a fair tomb to the memory of this Richard Roberts, the poor-man's friend, who died on Christmas-day, 1622. His three other daughters, Joan was married to William Squire, of Town-House, South- Molton; Prudence to John Amory, of Whitechapel in the parish of Bishop's-Nymp- ton ; and Grace to Francis Isaack of West-Down. It is lamentable to learn from the respected Vicar, the Rev. H. W. Toms, that " the early Registers of Comb- Martin are utterly lost : — that the first marriage now to be found there is dated 27th August, 1736, and that no mention whatever occurs of the Roberts' family." Mr. Roberts had ac- quired the Advowson of Berry-Narbor in Queen Elizabeth's reign. William Merrick had been admitted Rector, 13th July, 1564, to the vacant Living on the presentation of Henry, Earl of Arundell, hac vice, by reason of the grant made unto him by John Skynner, senior, and John Skynner, junior, which they had obtained of Robert, Prior of the late Monastery of St. Pancras, at Lewes in Sussex. On Merrick's death, Thomas Robinson succeeded, 22nd January, 1595, on the presentation of Richard Roberts, the true Patron : William Herle succeeded to the Rectory 23rd May, 1603, void by the death of Thomas Robinson: — Patron, the said Richard Roberts. Strange that Mr. Lysons, in his Devonshire, vol. ii., page 42, should assert that "Richard Roberts, esq., possessed the Advowson about the year 1700, having left four daughters," &c. MEMOIR OF THOMAS WESTCOTE. VII. family;" Mary, and Philip a posthumous child. This Phihp, of Raddon, gen- tleman, made his will* 6th Oct., 1647, the day before his death, aged 41 . The eldest daughter, Frances, was married 27th Nov., 1631, at Stockleigh- • " In the name of God, amen, the sixth day of October, 1647, I, Philip Westcote, of Shobrook, in the county of Devon, gentleman, being of good and perfect memory, though weak in body, do make and ordain this my last Will and Testament in manner and form following : — First, I commend my soul into the hands of God who gave it, and my body to christian burial. Item, I give and bequeath to my daughter, Mary Westcote, one Tene- ment at Thutt, now in the possession of George Mayne, one Tenement now in the posses- sion of Robert Burnbury, another Tenement now in the possession of John Copp, one other Tenement now in the possession of Robert Moore or his Assigns, one other Tenement now in the possession of Bridget Teape, another Tenement now in the possession of John Rad- more, two Cottages at Raddon-Top now in the possession of William Short and William Radford ; all which said Messuages are in the parish of Shobrook, and county of Devon; one other Tenement in the possession of Peter Hellars, another Tenement now in the pos- session of William Blackmore, another Tenement now in the possession of Margery Har- ding; all which three Tenements last recited are in the parish of Comb-Martin, in the county aforesaid : one Messuage, House, or Tenement, in the city of Exon,now in the possession of Andrew Bowman ; another Tenement, in the parish of St. David, now in the possession of Philip Darke or his Assigns ; one Messuage in the possession of Henry Palmer, in the city of Exon : to have and to hold all and every the Premises to the said Mary Westcote, her Executors and Assigns, for the term of sixty years, to begin in every of the said several Tenements the aforesaid term of sixty years in and immediately after the determination of the Estate thereon now granted; provided nevertheless and upon this condition, that if my son Thomas Westcote, his Heirs or Executors, shall pay unto the said Mary the sum of Eight Hundred Pounds of current money of England within Twelve Months after she shall attain unto the age of one and twenty years, that then the Estate of the said Mary my daughter, in all and every of the Premises so bequeathed, shall cease and be void; and my desire is, that she shall be ruled and advised in her marriage by my Overseers after named. And if it shall happen that any of the Estate aforesaid shall de- termine during the lifetime of my Mother, Mrs. Mary Westcote, then my will and mean- ing is, that my Wife shall receive the profits thereof, during the life of my aforesaid Mo- ther, for the better maintenance and education of my children ; and after the death of my Mother, to the use of my heir until he shall be of the age of one and twenty years ; and if the said Mary shall happen to die before she shall attain to the age of twenty, one, then my said son Thomas, paying the sum of Four Hundred Pounds to my son or daughter which shall be next born of my wife, at that son or daughter's age of one and twenty, the Estate in the Premises given to my daughter Mary, and before mentioned, shall be void and cease. And whereas my Wife, Elizabeth Westcote, is at this time (as I think) with child, I do give unto my next child which shall be born of her one Tenement now in the possession of the Widow and Walter Westcote, or their Assigns, called Fursc, Vlll. MEMOIR OF THOMAS WESTC'OTE. Pomeroy, to George Westcote, m.a., who had been admitted to the Rectory of Berry-Narbor on the 17th of January, 1630, void by the death of Wilham Herle, clerk, on the presentation of Thomas Westcote of Shobrook, gentle- man, and Mary, his wife, eldest daughter and sole surviving heiress of Rich- ard Roberts, of Comb-Martin, gentleman, true patrons, h^c vice. For some cause he was re-instituted to the same Rectory by King Charles I., on 30th December, 1635 ; and appears to have held it undisturbed until his death. His will bears date 2nd March, 1673-4 : he desires Grace his second wife, to present his son, Thomas, to his living; and he mentions his son, Hugh, and his daughters, Grace and Mary. Thomas, b. a. was accordingly ad- one other Tenement now in the possession of Peter Reade or his Assigns, one Tenement now in the possession of Edmund Weeke or his Assigns, all which Tenements are in the parish of Shobrook and county of Devon ; To have and to hold the Premises aforesaid to the said child, being male or female, for the term of sixty years, the said term to begin in every of the said Tenements immediately after the determination of the Estate now granted upon this condition, that if the said child be a son, and the said Thomas Westcote or his Heirs shall pay unto the said son, at his age of one and twenty years, the sum of Five Hundred Pounds, that the Estate in Edmund Weeke's Tenement, and the Estate in Peter Reade's Tenement hereby given shall be void and cease, and that after the death of my said son the Estate in the Widow and Walter Westcote's Tenement shall cease and be void likewise ; but if the said child shall be a daughter, then upon this condition that if my son Thomas shall pay unto her Seven Hundred Pounds of current Money of England, within twelve months after she shall accomplish the age of one and twenty years, then her Estate hereby given shall also be void and cease : and if it shall happen that the parti- cular Estate in any of the said Tenements shall determine during the minority of my said son or daughter, that my Wife shall take the issues and profits of the said Tenements for the better education and maintenance of my said son or daughter during the life of my Mother, Mrs. Mary Westcote, and after her death it shall go to the Heir of my son Thomas until he shall come to the age of one and twenty. Item, I give unto my son, Thomas Westcote, all my Books and Papers which were formerly my Father's ; all the rest of my Goods and Chattels, not hereby formally given and bequeathed, I give and bequeath unto my Wife, Elizabeth Westcote, whom I make Executrix of this my last Will and Testament : and I desire Anthony Salter, Doctor of Physic ; Samuel Tanner, of Farringdon, Gentleman ; and George Westcote, of Berry-Narber, Clerk, to see this my Will performed. Dated, and published the day and year first above written. PHILIP WESTCOTE." " Witnesses hereunto, — Samuel Tanner. George Westcote, Robert Farr. John Copp." Proved in the Court of the Archdeacon at Exeter, by the said Elizabeth Westcote, the Executrix, on 12th January, 1647-8. MEMOIRS OK THOMAS WESTCOTR. IX. mitted to the Rectory on 11th July, 1674, void by his father's death, on the presentation of the said Grace Westcote, the relict and executrix of George Westcote ; but hardly lived to take possession of his preferment. His will was made 9th August, 1674, and he was buried in his church the day following. The second daughter. Prudence, was married, on the 3rd of November, 1635, to John Fulljames, of Pitminster, gent.; the third, Katharine, was married to Edward Hill, gent.; and the fourth daughter, whose christian name we cannot recover, was married to Robert Cannon. To the Rev. Hinds Howell, the present Incumbent of Shobrook, we tender our grateful acknowledgments for his valuable assistance in compiling this Memoir : had we relied on Mr. Prince's account in his " Worthies of Devon," pages 757 — 8, we should have been betrayed into gross inaccuracy. We subjoin a copy of the Will of the Relict of the Historian, together with a Pedigree of the Westcote Family. George Oliver, — Pitman Jones. " In the name of God, amen, I, Mary Westcote, of Shobrook, in the county of Devon, widow, taking into consideration the frailties of this present life, the certainty of death, and the uncertainty of the time thereof, and being at this present (though somewhat weak in body, yet, blessed be God,) of a sound and disposing memory, do, for the tsettling of such worldly Estate wherewith it hath pleased God to bless me, make this my last Will and Testament, hereby revoking all former and other Wills by me made whatsoever: First I commend my soul into the hands of Almighty God my Creator, trusting through the merits and mercy of Christ Jesus alone to have remission of my sins and to enjoy everlasting life, and my body to christian burial, to be laid so near my deceased Husband in Shobrook Church as may be. Item, I give and bequeath unto the poor of the parish of Shobrook Forty Shillings to be distributed amongst them at the time of my funeral according to the discretion and direction of my Executors hereafter named. Item, I give unto the Church- wardens and Overseers of the Poor of Comb-Mavtin Five Pounds of lawful Money of England to be by them and their Successors from time to time preserved as a Stock for the Poor, the increase and profit thereof I would have yearly given by them and their Suc- cessors on St. Thomas' Day before the Nativity of our Lord God, unto the most aged and indigent widow women of the said Town, by Twelve-Pence a-piece, to as many of them as the profit of ihe Money will reach unto. Item, I give and devise unto my grandson, John Northcot, the elder, the great Scriptoire remaining in my chamber. Item, I give and de- vise unto my grand-daughter, Katharine Northcot, my Cypress Chest. Item, I give and devise unto Thomas Westcote, son of my daughter, Frances Westcote, the Sum of Fifty Pounds of lawful Money of England, to be paid within one year after my decease. Item, whereas I am seised in Fee Simple of the Fourth Part or of some other Part of several Lands, Messuages, Tenements, and Hereditaments, situate in the parish of Comb-Mar- X. MEMOIRS OF THOMAS WESTCOTR. tin, in the county aforesaid, and in the parishes of llfracomb, Berry-Narber, and Brattou- Fleming, in the said county, I do hereby give and devise the same unto my grand-son, Thomas Hill, and the Heirs of his body lawfully to be begotten ; and for want of such is- sue, I do give and devise the same unto my grand-son, Richard Hill, and the Heirs of his body lawfully to be begotten ; and for default of such issue, I do give and devise the same unto my grand-son, Edward Hill, and his Heirs for ever. And vrhereas also I am possessed and interested for a great number of years of and in the Fourth Part or of and in some other Part of several Messuages, Lands, and Tenements, situate in the parishes aforesaid of Comb-Martin, llfracomb, and Bratton-Fleming, or in some or one of them, I do hereby give and devise my said Part, Purparty, and Portion of and in such Messuages, Lands, Tenements, and Hereditaments unto the aforesaid Thomas Hill, my grand-son, for and during so many of the said years as the said Thomas shall happen to live : and if the said Thomas do happen to live unto the age of one and twenty years, or to be married, I do then give and devise the same unto the said Thomas during all my Estate in the same; but if the said Thomas shall happen to die before he do attain the age of one and twenty or happen to be married, I do then give and devise my Part of the said Messuages, Lands, Tenements, and Hereditaments, whereof I am so possessed, unto my grand-son, Richard Hill, for and during so many of the said years as the said Richard Hill shall happen to live ; and if the said Richard Hill do happen to live unto the age of one and twenty or to be married, I do then give and devise the same unto the said Richard during all my Es- tate in the same ; but if the said Richard shall happen to die before he do attain the age of one and twenty or happen to be married, I do then give and devise my Part of the said Messuages, Lands, Tenements, and Hereditaments, whereof I am so possessed, unto my grand-son, Edward Hill, his Executors, and Assigns during all my Estate, Term, and In- terest therein. Item, whereas I am seised in Fee Simple of the Fourth Part and Turn of the perpetual Patronage and right of Disposition and Gift of the Vicarage of Chew- Magna in the county of Somerset, I do hereby give and devise my said Fourth Part of the said Advowson and Right of Donation unto Edward Hill, my son-in-law, and his Heirs for ever : and I do desire the said Edward and his Heirs to present thereunto his son, Richard, if God shall ever make him capable thereof ; and after his presenting of him thereunto to grant the Fee Simple of the said part of the said Advowson unto the said Richard Hill and his Heirs for ever. Item, I give and devise unto my grand-son, Philip Westcote, and unto my grand-daughter, Mary Westcote, the Sum of Forty Pounds of lawful Money of England, a-piece, to be paid unto them within one year after my decease. Item, I give and bequeath unto the aforesaid Thomas Hill, my grandson, the Sum of Fifty Pounds of lawful Money of England, to be paid unto him within one year after my decease. Item, I give and devise imto Richard Hill and Edward Hill, my grand-children, the Sum of Two Hundred Pounds a-piece of lawful Money of England, to be paid unto them within one year after my decease : and my will is that the two last Legacies hereby given to the said Richard and Edward Hill should be employed for their best benefit before they attain to the age of one and twenty years or be married : and if it happen that either of them the aaid Richard or Edward shall happen to die before he attain the said age of one and MEMOIR OF THOMAS WESTCOTE. XI. twenty or be married, then my will is the survivor of them shall have the Legacy of him 60 dying and benefit thereof; and if it happen they both die before they attain the said age of one and twenty years or be married, then my will is that my said grand-son, Tho- mas Hill, should have both the said Legacies hereby to them given with the profit thereof. Item, I do give and bequeath unto John Northcot, son of John Northcot, esq., my grand- son, the Sum of Fifty Pounds of lawful Money of England, to be paid unto him within one year after my decease. Item, I give and bequeath unto my grand-son, Thomas Westcote, son of my son Philip, deceased, the Feather Bed in the north chamber and the Two Dust Beds in the maidens' chamber, performed. Item, it is my will that my said grand-son, Thomas Westcote, son of my son Philip, deceased, shall have all Ceilings, Benches, Forms, Shelves, Bedsteads, and Table-Boards which shall remain in or about the house I now dwell in, called Raddon, at the time of my death, (the Table-Boards in the parlour, and the Table-boards in the parlour-chamber only excepted.) Item, I give and devise unto my servant, Mary Fry (if she continue my servant until my death) Ten Pounds. Also I give unto Thomas Johns Ten Shillings. Also I give unto Mary Harris (if she continue my servant until my death) Twenty Shillings, and old Joan Ten Shillings. Also I give unto William Reed, William Short, and Elizabeth Teap in like manner Five Shillings a-piece : which last seven Legacies my will is shall be paid unto every of them within one month next after my decease. All the rest of my Goods, Chattels, and Per- sonal estate, (my plate only excepted,) my Debts, Legacies, and Funeral Expenses being first paid and discharged, I give and devise unto my son-in-law, Edward Hill, Katharine Northcot, and Sarah Fulljames (that is to say) the one moiety or halfendeal of the said Goods and Chattels unto the said Edward Hill, and the other moiety or halfendeal unto the said Katharine Northcot and Sarah Fulljames, between them equally to*be divided ; which said Edward Hill, Katharine Northcot, and Sarah Fulljames I hereby make my whole and sole Executors of this my last Will and Testament. And I do desire my two friends, Thomas Poyntingdon, of Comb, esq., and Christopher Squire, of Town-House, esq., to be Overseers of this my Will, and to see a just performance thereof; by whom I desire my Executors to be ruled in all doubts and differences that may arise concerning this my Will or any thing therein contained : and to each of them I give Tweniy Shillings to buy them rings to wear in remembrance of me. And I further give and devise unto my two sons-in-law, George Westcote and Robert Cannon, Twenty Shillings a-piece to buy them rings also in remembrance of my love unto them. In witness whereof I have hereunto set my Hand and Seal the Third Day of December, in the Seventeenth year of the reign of our Sovereign Lord King Charles the Second of England, and Anno Domini, 1665. "Signed, Sealed, and Published by the said^ Mary Westcote to be her last Will and Testa- ment, in presence of Thomas Hugh, Junr. \ MARY WESTCOTE." Mary Fry. The Seal bears the Arms of West- The mark of Thomas f Rice. J cote impaled with Roberts. Proved in the Court of the Archdeacon of Exeter, by the said Edward Hill, Katharine Northcot, and Sarah Fulljames, the Executors, on 16th November, 1666. B* PEDIGREE OF OF SHOBROOK, Ann (Wilson,) = Thomas Westcote, relict of John second son of Thomas Raddon, of Westcote, by Mary his Shobrook, wife, said to have come Devon, ob. s.p. into Devon with Sir Thomas Dennis of Holcomb-Burnel, knight, ob. 28 March, 1549, buried at Shobrook. Alice, only daughter and heir of John Walter, of Comb, Devon, gent., buried at Shobrook, 6 October, 1557. Philip Westcote,: of Raddon, gent., married at Shobrook 17 October, 1557, ob. 4, and l3uried there 7 February, 1600. RogerProuse = Alice, of Horewell, in Colebrook. baptized 5 Dec. 1559. Robert, baptized 8 Dec, 1560, ob. ccelebs buried at Shobrook 6 March 1636-7. George, baptized 22 Mar., 1561-2, ob, ccelebs May, 1589, aged 27. Thomas = Major. Pascaw, baptized 31 March, 1563. Wm. Packer, : of Shobrook, Genor, baptized 18 Dec. 1563, married 21 Oct. 1590. :Katharine, daughter > George Waltham, of Brenton, in Exminster gent., buried near her hi band 19 February, 161 THOMAS, the Historian, baptized 17 June, 1567. = Mary, eldest daughter and CO -heiress of Richard Robert ofComb-Martir Devon, gent., buried at Sho- brook 16 Aug. 1666. Philip = Elizabeth, ob. 7 October, | eldest daughter of George Tanner, alias Mortymer, of Greeley, in Farringdon, gent. 1647, and buried at Shobrook, aged 41. Thomas, who ruined his family. Mary. Philip, (a posthu- mous child.) I Frances, married 27 Nov., 1631, at Stockleigh- Pomeroy, ob. 16 March, 1649-50. r "^George Westcote, m. a., Rector of Berry-Narbor, ob. 2 March. 1674. Thomas, also Rector of Berry-Narbor, born 7 May, 1639, ob. 9, buried there 10 Aug., 1674, Hugh. Prudence, married at Shobrook BNovember, 1635. Grace. Mary, baptized 10 Oct., 1641, buried 31 January, 1648, at Berry-Narbor, Thomas, baptized 1 Nov., 1636, buried 21 Jan. following, at Shobrook. WESTCOTE, DEVON. J I John, Alice. baptized 4 Dec, 1568, and died young. = Thomas =ArthurElizabeth,= R. E. Susan,=William Ann, = Henry PHiLip,JuLi"ANA=HuMPHREy Prye of Hart. baptized RoGERS.baptizedMATTHEW. baptized Clotworty baptized Reynolds, Horwellin 5 May, 25 7 Sen., of Taunton. 23, of Colebrook, 1570, Novem. 1577, January, Cheriton- esq^., married 1571. married 1579-80, Fitzpaine. ob. 1584., 4 Sep., 3 Oct., buried s.p. 1598. 1603. 31 Jan. 1593-4. ■John Fulljames, of Pitminster, gent., ob. at Shobrook, 15 Sep., 1644, aged 29. Katharine,: buried at Shobrook 17 August, 1665. Edward Hill, gent. T John Northcote, Robert Cannon. Mary, baptized 27 February, 1637-8, buried 26 July, 1645, at Shobrook. Mary, buried 1 April, 1659, at Shobrook. Thomas. Richard. John. Katharine. THE INTRODUCTION. Geographers, which describe kingdoms, and Historiographers, that wi-ite their histories, are more troubled (as we find by their writings,) to search and find out the proper names of countries and cities, and whence they are derived, and the reason why they were first imposed, than in any other matter, although of far greater worth and consequence ; which seems to me a needless and unnecessary labour, in regard they are so often changed by the vicissitude of inhabitants ; as the poet excellently saith, — " Sith that befalls not always that his seed Who built the town, doth in the same succeed: And to say more, since under heaven no race Perpetually possesseth any place ; For when, as winds the angry ocean moves, Wave hunteth wave, and billow billow shoves ; So do all nations justle each the other. And so one people doth pursue another : And scarce the second hath the first unhous'd Before the third him thence again hath rows'd." And yet this is generally expected, and therefore caused Plutarch (that great dictator of knowledge,) to complain, in his exordium to the Life of Romulus, that the history writers did much vary in their writings; by whom, and for c XIV. INTRODUCTION. what cause, the name of the great city Rome (in that time the glory of the whole world,) was first imposed on it : for their conjectures were variable in regard there was not any synonime, or word, answering in signification to that of Rome. And some have gathei'ed, out of ancient writers, that the Romans (moved with a particular superstition,) would have the true and first name of their city to remain hid; which Pliny expresseth plainly (speaking of that city,) in these words — "cujus nomen alteram dicere, Arcanis ceremoniarum nefas habetur." — The secret ceremonies forbid to teU the other (meaning the time and proper) name thereof. We will pass over the alledged reasons hereof, and forbear to make guess among foreign ^vl•iters, in regard it is so apparently seen in our oM'n comitry, whether you name it Albion, Britain, or England; (whose fame is now farther spread than Rome's in its greatest glory;) for about each of these several names, and the first plantation thereof, many worthy, wise, and learned men have long time busied, wearied, yea! and clean thed themselves; and yet, in fine, left it but upon supposals and uncertain conjectures. Let us together herewith seriously consider the alterations of the names of such other countries in the history whereof we are most conversant, and for our more steady assurance, leave poets and uncertain reporters, and such as come casually by tradition; and solely observe how the countries, cities, and mountains in the promised land ( to the heirs of Abraham,) had their names altered from his time (or when Moses viTote,) to our SaA'iour's birth, some 1500 of years : and again, from that time to this our age, some 1630 years longer ; and not only that, but therewithal the alteration of the natiare and quahty of the soil; and we shall find much matter worthy our serious consideration and observation ; and that not without some admiration in the vicissitude and interchangeable course of those places, both in name and nature ; which divers travellers have rightly considered, when in their late travels they have \dewed it, not only with the eyes of their bodies, but with their chiefest and most judicious consideration; especially when they not only beheld but also endured the starving penury and barrenness of that region, and could hardly be induced to believe that it should be the land that Jehovah ( the great God of heaven,) had assured his elected servant Abraham, should be so fruitful as to flow with milk and honey : for INTRODUCTION. XV. That pleasant soil that did even shame ere-while, The plenteous beauties of the banks of Nile ; Void now of force, or vital vegetive, Upon whose breast nothing can live or thrive. As the divine poet singeth. This duly considered, who will be able ( if the world should continue the like time to come,) to render a reason why the ports, havens, islands, and kingdoms in America have their now new imposed denominations by their late discoverers and latest conquerors, (the ancient being irrevocably lost,) as Peru, Florida, Virginia, and especially the lands of Famine and Desolation, which two may, long within that supposed time, be found habitable, and made, by the chastising hand of husbandry and careful industry, as fruitful and beneficial for the use of man, for things necessary, as any of the other. If we intend to build our foundation on sure ground, I may question what hath been left us written worthy our undoubted belief (the sacred Scriptures only excepted,) before the wars of Thebes or the destruction of Troy, (which is supposed near the age that Jephthah judged Israel,) and yet both these are left us, delivered rather poetically than historically ; which emboldens me to demand the question, with the poet Lucretius, — " Cur supra bellum Thebanum, et funera Troja;, Non alias quondam veteres cecinere Poeta;?" ' Of Actions ere the Theban war, or Troy's fall, Why have the ancient poets not writ at all ?" You cannot fail of a probable answer, that few languages had then characters, and few men were then learned men, and those learned were not all writers ; and those that wrote in those ages, treated of matters of greater worth and consequence, and more needful to be known and pei-petuated to posterity ; and such books so written, ( being in neither of the sti'ong and durable substance of Seth, his pillars, to endure and resist the two contrary elements, of fire and water,) have perished altogether in those great hbraries. If the original of kingdoms, their primitive names, and especially the reasons or causes of the impositions of them be so laborious in quest, and so difficult to be found, much more industry wUl be required, and far more obscure will be the search for subjected several provinces within them. Of XVI. INTRODUCTION. one of which, Devonshh'e, my native soil, I intend, by God's assistance, (after my poor skill and reading,) to shew you a slight superficial view. Dii cceptis O God with thy favours Aspirate meis Prosper my endeavours. Wherein, if among the confused chaos of varieties of matters, as etymologies, antiquities, names of towns and men, epitaphs, charters, rhythms, histories, and traditions I shall endeavour to make choice, to yield content by following the poet's advice, when he saith, — " Omne tulit punctum, qui miscuit utile dulci." Who profit and delight shall join in one, Doth win the chiefest price, and he alone. I hope I may intermix a pleasant tale with a serious discourse, and an unwrit- ten tradition with a chronicled history, old ancient armories and epitaphs, well near buried in obhvion, (matters not supervacual nor unworthy to be received and kept living, unless we could be content to have our own name and remembrance to perish with our bodies,) ancient families now extinct, or rather transanimated into others ; some etymologies seeming and perchance strange and far fetched; old, new, serious, jovial, curious, trivial : for these and matters of such nature may, without peradventure, give recreation to a wearied body and mind (that reads for recreation,) with more dehght and content for variety, than dislike the severe critic for simplicity, vulgarity, or doubt of verity. Some few things will occur in reading, and to be collected out of divers authors; but much more is to be sought for variety, in dark and obscure places, by industrious labour; wherein, aiming conjectures, if they err, are to be pardoned, (for he that divineth in things of this quality, upon bare supposals, may as well shoot short, as overshoot, the mark he aimeth at,) for they be not seriously alledged, but only to furnish and beautify the edi- fice, as pictures and maps in a gallery. In reading the epitaphs, you shall, as it were, converse with the dead : (whose relics, long since dissolved to dust, will neither flatter nor accept thereof :) see their obehsks and monuments, read their remembrances in- INTRODUCTION. XVII. dorsed on their grave- stones; (which shew us either what they were, or what we shall be; or, sometimes, what we should be ;) and their worthy actions registered, to persuade their posterity and encourage them to imi- tation. Yet I would not wish you to think to have more good of the fox than his skin, for so your expectation may be unsatisfied; which, if it be, "sciant presentes et futuri" — that this poor cot was erected with brick, burnt with stubble gathered with mine own hands in such barren fields as I have gleaned; wherein they, of whom I have had any assistance, (be it never so slender,) shall not be forgotten; but his county somewhere remembered and their mite made a bezant : and if such, as upon request, have refused to yield me any help, shall (as I am assured they will before others,) tax me of neglect for forgeting their ancestry, as I passed by their houses, I could wish them more courtesy and affability, and not so penuriously sparing ; and first to know themselves before they do imagine to know others; and, when they have learned that — nosce teipsum, not to chest up that knowledge, nor scorn to refuse to participate it to others , and to remember this verse. Scire tuum nihil est, nisi te scire : hoc sciat alter. — No praise to thee that thou knowest much, When none else knows thy knowledge such. But you will expect a large hall, where the portal is so great. I will only make this motion, and give you free entrance ; — that if any thing sound or seem to your judicial understanding harsh or averse, contrary to my intendment, that in regard of my willingness, my errors of unskilfuhiess may have a favourable and mild interpretation. And in all serious matters of antiquity, those authors I have followed will plead my integrity. It is dull, doubtful, and uncertain travelling in unknown ways without a guide ; yet he is driven to a far greater extremity that, at every doubtful place or turning lane, is taught a several way by each traveller he meets with; yet, howsoever, ( if you please to travel thither,) have with you about Denshire. THE FIRST BOOK. CHAPTER I. Whence Devonshire is said to take name, and the divers opinions thereof. Devonia, Devonshire, now by Synseresis, Denshire (a province of the little world of Great Britain, as Claudian said, — " Nostro deducta Britannia mundo," The Britain nation found From all the world disjoin'd,) was sometimes one and the same province with Cornwall, and so by all ancient writers reputed, and both included under the Latin name Danmonia; i by Solinus Pylyhistor, Dunmonia; by Ptolomseus, Damnonia; and in some copies, Danmonia, as derived from Monia, which the Britons used for mines, or from their habitation under hills in low and deep valleys. These worthy ancient writers lived far remoted; and intelligence by such as travelled hither and only touched at our havens, or perchance travelled some part of the country, (hardly understanding the language,) whose relations must be very uncertain ; and they (as we may conjecture,) added to the names a 20 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOkI. Greek or Latin cadence, which might much alter the words and the propriety thereof. For, in my opinion, (saith a learned writer,) those that declare the first names of strange countries far remoted, are as the poor which wear their garments all bepatched and pieced, whereof the pieces that are added and sown on of new, are much more in quantity of cloth than the garment be- fore when it was first made, and difier in colour; which is plainly to be seen in the first discoveries of the Indies ; and the like you may think of this western world ere it was thoroughly discovered and inhabited; whereof I have obsei^ved no weak conjecture by two places especially, written by good authors, and are thus, — " When the Spaniards had conquered Mexico and were purposing to proceed farther, their commander, in his manner, demanded of one of the natives he met withal, what the country was named, who answered, ' Peru;' by which name it is known vmto this day; which, in his language, was, I know not what you say. Again, when the Alarbes, or Moors, first invaded Spain, meeting a poor Besonio driving an ass loaden, asked him what those territories were called ; who, understanding not their speech, gave no answer, but spake to his ass, 'Andoluzia ; which, in his own speech was, gup Luzia, for so had he named his ass; thence that province hath the name of Andoluzia." These examples, if not feigned, may serve to express unto us that the original of names are most uncertain, and many times, by strangers, imposed upon strange unprobable and unhkely occa- sions. I should rather, therefore, ( in regard it is a work that needs assistance, and that I shall not be able to overcome by my own strength,) crave aid of the Britons, the ancient inhabitants, whose posterity yet remaining are the Welch. They named it, Diffinent, Duflfeneyn, or Dennan ; all which, in one sense, signify deep and narrow valleys ; and doth, in some sort, ex- press the nature and condition of the soil, which is mountainous and hilly : and where those are, consequently are valleys, for there were never seen two hills without a valley. And yet I cannot depend on this neither, for I have been informed by one that speaks that language, and seems to imder- stand it well, that in that speech they have another word for valleys, which is, Lhan, and by that they name their valleys; as in Denbighshire, they name that rich countrv of Crosse-Vale, Lhan Gwest. Chap. I.] view of Devonshire. 21 Some there are which would have it derived from the Danes, and to be called the Danes'- Shire ; but therefore as yet could I never find any proba- bihty, only a sympathy in letters, or a synonime in sound, but not at all in signification : for this denomination was very ancient, before the Danes' first arrival, not above 850 years since; and they had smalltime of command here (much less of royal and quiet government,) to give names to stirps or tribes, much less to towns, cities, or provinces. But some, in their private opinions, may be severally pleased; some with one, some with another of these; yet for that these varieties serve to no better purpose than to shew the uncertainty, I wiU leave them all to those that shall afiect them in their particular choice. I will be free. Nullius addictusjuvare in verba magistri. — To no man am I so much thrall To swear he speaketh truth in all. And I hope I may be excused if I differ from others (though my betters) in this particular, and ofiier my opinion and conjecture among the multitude, which a Tytus Lysach (so in the M.S.) every man hath hberty to put for himself, I would call it Avonshire, De Avonshire, and so by contraction, Denshire. Nay, look not strangely, I speak in our old vulgar speech : for Avon, in the old British language, is a river; and (taken generally as it signifiesTTthe name for all fleeting waters, as wells, riUs, becks, brooks, riverets, streams, and rivers: and this province abounding more copiously in lakes, waters, and rivers than any other that I have heard or read of, I am induced to think and believe it may, with as good reason, take name from them as from mines, valleys, or Danes; for Here many brooks, as through the groves they travel. Do sport for joy upon the silver gravel. De Avon, or Devon, the country of rivers, or waters : which may be sooner granted, aiid wrth less alteration of letters by far, than any of the former ; agreeing better with the property of our language, especially with the nature of the soUs, whereunto we should chiefly allude in naming of places: as the poet rightly avers, — D 22 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK I. "Conveniunt rebus nomina saepe suis." — The names of things we often see With things themselves fitly agree. The light of reverend antiquity and knowledge Mr. Camden maketh proof without exception, that the Gawlish or British speech was all one and the self-same. Being granted, Diu, in the British speech, signifieth, with us, God : and Avon, a spring or river, as Ausonius saith, (writing of a fountain near Bordeaux,) — "Divona celtarum lingua, fons addita Divis." Divona, in the Celtish words, A well sacred to God affords. Or a divine well or river, whereof more shall be spoken. First I must tell you that there are divers rivers in this kingdom that have no other name or attribute but Avon, the river; and may be said to be anonyma, without name ; as in our ordinary common phrase we say, when go you to the town? not giving it any other name, be it Exeter, York, or London ; intending the most near. So may we also say, when will you go to avon? the river; naming neither Ex, Ouse, nor Thames. And these are also dispersed in other countries also ; but in our own first. Tliere is one of very good note in Wiltshire, that falls from Dorset- shire into the ocean. Another of that name, that breaketh out of the earth, at Avon-weUs, in Leicestershire, by Malmesbury, called, Avon-the-less ; passeth through Northamptonshire, and cleaveth Warwick, Worcester, and Somersetshire; running many miles to visit Bath and Bristol, and then increaseth Severn. In Glamorganshire you have a town bearing the name of Aber-Avon; as if we should say, the river's mouth; for so indeed is the site thereof. In Monmouth also and Merioneth, in each of these is a river that hath no other denomination. And that structure of admirable magnificence, built by Cardinal Wolsey, in ostentation (as it was said) of his superabundant wealth, Hampton- Court, now a royal palace of our sovereigns, was first named Avon, for that it stood close upon the river, as Leland avoucheth : — Chap. I.] view of Devonshire. 23 " Nomine ab antique jam tempore dictus Avon." Hampton Court is the same In elder times that Avon had to name. And for the generality thereof in the sheriifdom of Stirling, in Scotland, we find that Adrianus the emperor, or his adopted Titus -^lius Hadrianus, Antoninus Pius, or his lieutenant, Lollius Urbius, did there for the defence of the country erect a wall of turf; which began (as the Scots write,) at Avon, or the river, that falleth into Edinburgh Frith. And that it was in more languages, which have now little (yea no) con- currence with our speech, is plainly seen in the kingdom of Ireland, in the counties of Cork and Waterford. There runneth the river now lately, of us, called Broad- water ; but in elder times, Avonmore, the great or large river : on the banks whereof standeth Ardmore : of which place and river Necham, long since, versified thus, — " Et urbem Lismore pertransit flumen Avon-more. Ardmore cernit ubi concitus aequor adit." Thy river, Avonmore, Through Lysmore town doth run ; Ardmore him sees, and there apace To sea he speeds anon. But to conclude, all what might be farther said, by the sentence of the dictator of knowledge, whose words I will only exemphfy: "Avon, in the Britisb speech," saith Mr. Camden, " importeth a river, whereof Avon- town taketh denomination ; which is no more strange than in the same sig- nification, Watertown, Rivertown, and Bourne, to omit many others, for so the Latins used Aquinum et Fluentum." The Uke is also alledged ( by authors of great authority,) of countries and regions in foreign parts ; for Ivo Carnotensis aflSrmeth that Aquitania (a great dukedom in France, well near a third part thereof,) took name of Waters- de Aquis. Junius niaintaineth that Denmark took denomination from denne, fir trees, where they abound. Verstegan aUedgeth, out of Englehusius that the Saxons took appellation from their short swords or knives, which they wore and fought withall ; ( it was with such they made the 24 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK I. massacre of the British nobihty upon the plains near unto Amesbury;) of which in regard their armories also were agreeable thereunto, viz, three seaxes in pale arg. were these Latin rhymes made ; — " Quippe brevis gladius apud illos Saxa vocatur Unde sibi Saxo nomen tiaxisse putatur." The short swords that they wore had Saxes unto name. And therefore Saxons they were called of the same. It is also written of the Britons, by Gildas, that they yielded divine wor- ship to waters and rivers, as formerly, out of Ausonius, hath, by the name of Divona, (God's well,) been aUedged ; especially in the ordeal-trial (as they termed it,) of cold water for the discovery of witchcraft; wherein their opinion was, that the element of water was so pure and holy that it would not suffer itself to be contaminated and defiled by receiving the body of any such contagious or vile person, though cast thereinto bound hand and foot, but that it would bear the witch and not suffer him to sink; for such as sunk to the bottom were presently drawn on land and held guiltless. It is not for christians to make such use of rivers, or to trust them so far ; yet are we to take it as a great blessing of the Almighty that we have such store of waters to enrich our lands and portage of commodities ; and as the kingly prophet sings, — " He sendeth springs into the brooks That run among the hills, Wherewith wild asses quench their thirst And all beasts drink their fills." Yet this nation incurred not this aspersion alone for having rivers in this estimation, for the Germans honoured the river Rhine, making it a judge in case of defiled wedlock; and those of Thessaly did the Uke to Peneus for his virtues; and Julius Solinus ascribeth the Uke to a spring in Sardinia in the trial of theft ; for whosoever by oath denied the fact and washed his eyes with the water thereof, if he swore truly his sight became the clearer ; but perjuring himself, the fault was presently discovered by his bhndness, and the delinquent was enforced to confess the fact and lose his sight. Chap. II.] vikw of Devonshire. 25 But in these ordeal trials, though the way be spacious and pleasant I will lead you no farther. But to return to the name of this province, whereof you have heard my conjecture with others; which I leave to your censure, which I can neither entreat nor persuade you to favour; for I am not so ape-like-affected to it to applaud it ; neither have I reason to fear opposition : for this aetiologie can neither seem harsh nor absurd, in regard the words and quaUty are so consonant ; and the name also doth, as a true picture, plainly represent the nature of the thing, which, in etymologies, is chiefly required and sought after. Now leaving the better explanation of the name of Devon to him that can with Neevius, "cotem novacula scindere," — cleave hard stones with razors, I will tell you when Devon and Cornwall were sundered, divided, and parted. CHAPTER II. When the Danmonian Province was severed, and the limits thereof. This province of Danmonia (now divided into two, and named Cornwall and Denshire,) continued a long time unseparated, even to the reign of K. Athelstan, son of Edward the elder, in the year of our salvation 939; for the Briton had possessed this country wholly many years before the incar- nation of Christ, even (as the chroniclers of Wales and other British writers have calculated,) 1137, until they were invaded and brought into a kind of unwillmg subjection (for they were never wholly conquered,) by the Ro- mans, who kept a powerful unquiet possession here some 500 years ; after which time, their glory declining and power decaying, and having almost, by their many battles, and the transportation by the here elected emperor, Maximus, of the valiant natives into the continent to try their civil (or un- 26 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK I. civil, rather,) and private quarrels, almost dispeopled the land ; so they might weep what Lucan sang, — " Desuntque manus poscentibus arvis." There wanted hands For tillage of the lands. Then they yielded the government again to the natives, who were brought into so small a number as the question might be demanded, with the poet, — "Generis quo turba reducta est Humani."- Full hard it was to find Any remainder of mankind. And that weak and small remainder were most cruelly vexed and pursued by their northern neighbours, the Picts and Scots, (as Gildas largely and lamentably relateth in his history,) so that in their distress they were enforced to crave aid of foreign nations, and made choice of the Saxons as most to be trusted. And Vortigern, their new elected king, (for he was first but earl, or governor of Danmonia,) sent ambassadors to entreat their loving assistance for a time ; who presently came as loving friends to aid and assist the Britons. But some (perceiving the weakness and fertility of the land,) became tyrannising, suppressing, and supplanting enemies ; seizing upon the best part of the whole land : expelling the poor and weak natives ; some into South and North Wales, others into the land of Armonica; (now called Little Brittain ;) for there was a colony of this nation formerly seated, and as yet (as it is said,) retain their dialect and language, very little altered, this great long time. For as a French poet saith, — " The ancient Britons ( by the Saxons chas'd From native Albion,) soon the Gauls displac'd From Armorick, and then victoriously After their name surnamed it Brittany." Others retired into these western parts; for it is registered in the history Chap. II.] view op Devonshire. 27 of the church, that Theonis and Thaduceus, Archbishops of Canterbury and York, were, by the Huns, Picts, and Saxons (who made desolation in the outward face of the church,) di-iven into the deserts of Danmonia. It was not long also ere these domineering Saxons began to intrude and usurp upon the Britons in this province likewise, and to co-inhabit jointlv together with them both in the country and city of Exeter, with equality of use though not of right ; and therefore neither with love nor good agree- ment. For the Saxons being natural subjects to the king and of his lan- guage, bearing all offices, and having all authority under him, yielded all duty and due obedience. But the Britons wanting the means (not having the language,) to speak for themselves, and kept in hard subjection, grew impatient in their hard and slavish servitude, under the yoke of strangers, and much repined to have their freedom fettered with such heavy chains under new lords and new laws, yielded only an unwilling and forced sub- jection: and being of courage and spirits naturally martial, conceived them- selves much injured in not having equal favour and authority with the Saxons, which were indeed but inmates unto them. So by a weariness and loathing conceived against the government, they sought liberty; and so averting their hearty love from their sovereign, and incensed with hatred towards their co-inhabitants, their muttering and murmuring was so appa- rent as it could be no longer palliated, and therefore, as the poet saith, — " With wrongs and servitude now grown desperate. With loud proud terms they do expostulate ;" and so proceeded by degrees from words to blows, quarrels, debates, and murders; even to civil wars. Little considering the reproof that Solon gave the Athenians in the like case, when he said, — " If presently your burden heavy be, Yet murmur not against the gods therefore ; The fault is yours, as ye yourselves may see : Which granted, have of mighty Mars the lore. To such as now by your direction Do hold your necks in such subjection," But K. Athelstan, to prevent an absolute rupture and to compass his end without precipitation, used all gentle means and royal clemency ; admonish- 28 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK I. ing them by letters, messages, proclamations, to pacify and qualify their implacability and furious rage. But neither of these prevaiUng with the stiff-necked Britons, he was inforced to use his royal authority (in extremity) by arms. So after he had subdued the Scots (and the Welch at Hereford) he came into these parts with a powerful army, and after sundry conflicts chased the Britons (whose courage was far above their strength, and to move without might is bootless,) out of these parts, now called Denshire, (an ordinary event when rage runneth faster than judgment and power can keep pace with it,) driving them beyond the river now called Taw-meer; making that river the bounds, limits, or meer between the two counties ; whereof it may not seem improbable to take the addition of meer. For in this province we have four fair and large rivers, which begin their names very like in the first syllable. Taw, Towridge, Teavy, and this Taw- meer. For this then being called Taw might have the addition of meer, which signifieth a bound or limit : so Taw-meer, Taw the bounds : and so it is, for the major part, even to this day ; a little encroachment of Devon excepted . Then the British name began to decline, and shortly after was wholly extinguished ; and from thenceforth they were, by the Saxons, termed Comu- Gualenses, or Wallenses, and their country, Cornwall ; in regard they were separated from the Saxons, and were to dwell in a narrow strict corner, or nook, of the land by themselves. And so, by some men's inter- pretation, doth the word Cornwall signify; being compounded of Kernaw (in Latin, Cornu,) and Walli (in Latin, Peregrinus:) Cornu in Enghsh is a horn which is bigger at the one end than the other and crooked withal. And even so is this country; for in the east-most part, where it borders upon this province, it hath near miles in breadth, but by degrees waxeth lesser and lesser ; for as, at the point, it is little more than a mile over. Wally (by which word we denominate Welchmen,) is a Saxon word, signifying a stranger or alien, (for so do the Germans also term all those as are foreigners, neither of their nation or language, as learned Mr. Camden hath duly observed,) and this I presume to be the reason that we call those Britons inhabiting Wales, Walli ; in English, Welchmen ; and those of Cornwall, Cornua- Wallenses, Corn-Welchmen, or Cornishmen. Chap. III.] view of Devonshire. 2,9 But Malmesbury doth render another reason I do confess, but with very small probability ; saying that they were called Comuwallenses ; for being seated in the western part of England, they were opposite against a horn, or promontory, of Gaule. The whole name (saith another most judicious observer,) is as if you should say, ComwaUes : for hither, in the Saxons' conquest, the Britons, called Walsh, (or, as it were, Gwalsh ; the w and g transmuted ; for the French call our prince. Prince of Gwales, not Wales, and so expresseth them rather Gaules than strangers ;) made transmigration hither, and here planted themselves ; whereof the old rythmer thus, — 1 3 3 " The vewe that were of hem beleved, As in Corn-wale and Wales ; 4 5 6 Briton nor namore ycleped, 7 Ac Wales y wis." 1 few. 2 tbem. 3 left. 4 were. 5 no more. 6 named. 7 but. CHAPTER III. Of the extent and bounds of Danmonia. The two provinces [of Devon and Cornwall,] in their union is, by some, supposed to be much larger in former times than both are now ; extending it half in length from the farthest point of the island Scilly in the west, unto the eastmost confines of the Durotriges and Belgians, containing both Dorset and Somerset shires. And some affirm that in former ages (long since, I think,) Scilly was continent land with Cornwall, and separated by the violent irresistible force of raging storms of Neptune in his fury ; for which they allege not only an ancient tradition from father to son, but a 30 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK I. reason, that it is now with Denshire under one bishop ; ( though in some times they have been several sees under several bishops;) and also this instance, that in a fair sun-shine day, sea-faring men see and discern plainly sundry ruins, as monuments of houses and churches under the waters : but I will leave it for them to make it good ; I wiU give no security for it. Yet needs it not so strong a behef altogether as Volsius his affirmation, that this the country of Great Britain was sometime one continent with France, and that the tracts between Dover and Calais was gained by the sea ; as 0^^d writeth of Helice and Bury, cities of Achaia, — . " If you go seek for Helice And Bury, which were cities of Achaia, you shall see Them hidden under water, as to shipmen yet doth show The walls and steeples of the towns drown'd under, as they row." These provinces also united were called Corinea; takmg denomination (as some stiffly affirm,) of Corineus, a supposed kinsman of supposed Brutus, a wise and vahant man and in much esteem with his lord,) by him rewarded with this country. But he that vdll credit this must consequently beUeve the whole history of Brutus and his descent, which is strongly opposed and shrewdly shaken by the chiefest writers of our age. And I see no greater reason why this country should not take name of him more rather than Circiter, Circester, or Ciren-cester, which Ptolomie names Corinium, and the river fleeting by it Corinus, now Chume, in the county of Glocester. But being left unto us as a tradition (albeit, not, as some think, very ancient,) from mouth to mouth, I will not be so void of civihty utterly to reject it, (although some things seem more fabulous, interposed perchance by some augmenting transcribers,) but leave every man to the choice of his own mind w^here to fasten his behef. Forbearing to speak farther of Corn- wall, being eased of that labour by the industrious labours of the right worthy and worshipful gentleman, Richard Carew, of Anthony, who, under the name of a survey, hath very eloquently desci-ibed it. Chap. IV.] view of Devonshire, 31 CHAPTER IV. Of the limits, hundreds, market towns, and parishes in the county of Devon. Now, according to my purpose, I wiU proceed only with Devon, which hath long lain in obscurity, illustrated only by the valiant actions of the worthy heroes thereof, and not by the quills of the natives ; who are such as dare rather to adventure in their travels by sea and land, to discover new worlds, to find them, and to conquer and people kingdoms therein, than to encounter the squint eye of envy, or black heart of mahce, by treading the ridged, untrodden, uncouth path, by which I have undertaken to guide you; which promiseth neither reward nor regard, but scornful backbiting and scandalous detraction. This province, in the south east, borders on Dorsetshire; and then in Thorncomb, or, if you will. Lime, whereof this town may perchance ( I cannot avouch it,) take nomination. Lime, thehmits between both Shires; in the north-east Somerset, and therein Culbone and Exmoor, and Coun- tesberry on our side. On the west, not the river Cambia, (as in the learned Lhuid's Enerlish edition, the transcriber's or printer's error, as I suppose,) but Tambria, — Taw-meer; and Hartland Point in the north-west; between which and Thorncomb it is in length 54 miles; and in breadth, from the south British ocean at Salcomb to the north Severn sea, 56 miles: which shews it in largeness the second to the greatest in the kingdom : within which circum- ference of 206 are included at this present 33 cantreds, centuries, or hund- reds. ( I say at this present, for in former ages I find either more, or these otherwise named.) This division of centuries was first made (as I find,) by K. Alfred, near the year 897 ; that by the residence of subordinate officers, peace at home might be the better maintained, foreign invasion (by the 32 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK I" quick assembly of the inhabitants) the timelier resisted, the taxes and reve- nues laid more evenly and levied more easily, justice (at the hundred courts at home at their doors,) with less charge and travel administered. And in these hundreds, by the sheriff's book, are parish churches; in the lord bishop's registry not so many: Mr. Camden numbers less, Mr. Speed more. The cause of this difference is easily known and as soon reconciled ; for the sheriff, in his book of freeholders, for their appearance at the assizes and sessions, numbers all, whether they be mother- churches or chapels of ease appendant; when the register acknowledgeth none but such as have spiritual promotions. In former times those were accounted for mother- churches (as I am taught,) as had right of baptism and sepulture ; and all other held for field churches, or chapels of ease: but this distinction is long since abrogated. Concerning our parishes and the number of them I farther find thus ; in a parliament holden at Westminster, in the first week in Lent, in the 45th of Edward III. anno 1371, the clergy granted to the king an aid for the wars in France, of 50,000£. and the temporal lords and commons gave the like, to be levied of all the parishes in England, in this manner: — every parish to be rated at 23s. 4d., and the greater to help the less and ease them : supposing, according to the vulgar account, that there had been so many parishes in England to have raised that sum at that rate. Wherefore writs were directed to the several shires to certify the number of parishes, and it was found that the sums of 50,000£. could not be levied after that proportion. Whereupon the king summoned a council at Winchester at Easter following, and every parish was rated at £5. 16s. one with the other. At which time there was found in this county 381 parishes; which was towards the grand sum £2209. 16s. But by this rate of £5. 16s. the sum amounted to £50181. 8s., and therefore the parishes of this county, by means of their poverty, were abated, and cessed but at £5. 12s. lOd. each, and the £181. 8s. abated in this shire. And I dare boldly say, that if it had at any time need of abatements, it hath as much at this present, if not more, by the multitude of poor abounding in it. Of market towns, besides the city of Exeter, it numbers whereof are incorporated ; and it serves the king and commonwealth, at the Chap. V.] view of Devonshire. 33 parliament, with two knights and sixteen burgesses; and the city of Exeter addeth two citizens. — Barnstaple. . . two. Plymouth .... two. Beer- Alston . . two. Plimpton two. Dartmouth. . ^ Tavistock .... two. Clifton ....?■ two. Totnbs two. Hardness . . * Tiverton two. There are also two forests, Dartmoor, that lieth wholly in this county, and part of Exmoor. Of parks, some few are yet remaining of the great store our fathers could speak of; the others, by the frugality of the owners, converted to a more profitable and beneficial use for themselves and the republic. But of the market towns and forests we shall have opportunity to speak more largely hereafter, and will therefore forbear at this place. With waters and rivers (as I have formerly said,) it is plentifully and bountifully stored; for brooks and rills, becks, bourns, riverets, and such like, the number is infinite; divers whereof meeting and incorporated to- gether are enlarged to rivers of that largeness and amplitude, that ere they come to pay tribute to Neptune, are navigable; as Ex, Dart, Tamer, Taw, Towridge, and Plime: all which abound with sundry sorts of dainty fish; but chiefly salmon, and thereof plenty; whereof Ex is said to have the preeminence, as yielding them always in season. CHAPTER V. Of the temperature of the air, and the nature of the Inhabitants, The air in these parts (although much subject mito rain and showery dews, as is the whole island, (far more than were in the continent,) and therefore called by some Matulam Planetarum,) is very healthy, temperate, sweet, and pure : ( I mean not that purity which an ancient father believed, 34 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK I, or rather supposed, is upon the mount of Olympus, where the air, he saith, is so thin and pure that it can neither support the birds that offer to fly therein, nor useful for the breathing of men used to a grosser air ;) but healthy, clear from damps, breathing long life to the Inhabitants :) for our forefathers, who accustomed themselves to measure the delicacy of food and rest by the yard of hunger and weariness, Uved temperately and fru- gally; content with what the earth afforded for satisfpng of nature's want ; yea, in the most ancient times, as Diodorus Siculus affirmeth, with bark and roots, and especially a certain confection, whereof the quantity of a bean would satisfy nature in such sort, that after the taking thereof they neither hungered nor thirsted (as Dio Nicseus saith,) in a long time after. They were then strong and mighty men of renown, able to endure much labour and travel in all weathers, lived to a great age, (as we read in Plutarch, who reporteth to 120 years,) in health and abihty of body: the longer (as it is thought) for not being weakened with dehcacies : for when they neglected their strong and manly exercises and temperate diet, delight- ing in the sweetness of foreign dainties, and in the excess of their own, it weakened the strength of the one, and shortened the length of the other. It was Csesar's opinion of the Gauls, that their neighbourhood and ac- quaintance with other nations had taught them a more plentiful and nice manner of life ; which, by little and little, had effeminated their minds and weakened their bodies, and made them far inferior to their ancestors. In consideration whereof some have been confident avouchers that such as taste deeply of the sweetness of ease and deUcacies, and are habited with the comphments thereof, have thereby an indisposition to labour, strong exer- cises, or martial actions. For use continueth, as the learned say, the property of a tenure, and non-usage implyeth a forfeiture. This delicacy and excess is described and sharply reproved by a noble and divine poet, when he saith, — " O! plague ! O! poison to the warrior's state! Thoumak'st the noble hearts effeminate. Whilst Rome was rul'd by Curios and Fabrices, Who fed on roots, and sought not for delices, And when the only cresses was the food Most delicate to Persia, then they stood." Chap. VI.] view op Devonshire. 35 CHAPTER VI. Of the soil, beasts, fowl, fishes, grain and fruits. The soil of this country, being very uneven, full of hills and valleys, is very uneasy for travellers and their horses, and gives a barren and unfruit- ful show to the beholders ; and being also very full of stones, is troublesome to pass through: which caused a traveller to compare it to Homer's descrip- tion of Ithyca, the territory of Ulysses, where he saith, — " Of all the isles, Ithyca doth least provide Of meads to feed a horse, or ways to ride." And in another place, somewhat after, — "And Ithyca hath neither ground to be For any length that comprehends a race To try a horse's speed, or any place To make him fat in : fitter for to feed A cliff-bred goat, than raise or please a steed." But to him for answer was replied, out of the same author and of the same isle, by a native gentleman of this country, — "With barren rocks and cliiFs it's overrun, And yet of hardy youths a nurse of fame ; Nor could I find a soil, where ere I came, More sweet and wishful:" and likewise farther proceeded with another place, — " Rocky tis and rough, And so for use of horse unapt enough; But with sad barrenness not much infested. Since clouds are here in frequent rains digested, And flowery dews." 36 yiBW OP DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK I. And for the ill travel for horses, our common Enghsh proverb maketh full amends; which is versified and says this, — " The country is best for the bider That is most cumbersome to the rider." William of Malmesbury describeth it to be in very poor case in his time, when he said, it yielded scarcely any grain but oats and pulse, and that coarse and slender; which may not be untruly if we give credit to Tacitus, who, speaking of the inhabitants, said, " they are a people thou canst not so easily persuade to manure the ground as to provoke the enemy and adventure wounds; holding that vile and base which is gotten by sweat of brows, when it might be obtained by expense of blood." Yea! and before the time of Henry I,, third son to the Norman Conqueror, this country was all forest; and (as we have formerly said,) the two arch- bishops of Canterbury and York were forced, by their persecutors, into the deserts of Devon and Cornwall ; and Exeter, the emporium and chief city of the same, was then named Caier-pen-hul-goit, the chief town in the forest or deserts. And yet it may be rightly deemed that the people's negUgence, unwillingness, carelessness, ignorance, or contempt of agricixl- ture in those days to be greater than the barrenness or leanness of the soil : the natives being, in all ages, more inchnable to war than husbandry; as rather depending upon provision gotten from others, than by the plough to be their own purveyors. And the earth being full of metals, it may, by all hkelihood, be as truly said of them as of the Tubalines, or Calibes, who lived, as ApoUonius saith, only by exchange of their metals for other commodities ; — " Haec gens tellurem rigido non vertit aratro, Sed ferri venas scindit sub montibus altis." The Tubalines plough not up their barren soil ; But mining hills for iron is their toil. And Naples (now held the garden of Europe,) was sometime named the Land of Labour, as yielding none or little profit and commodity, without great industry, and labour, and pains. And the inhabitants of this country Chap, VI.] view of Devonshire. 37 longed for no other dainties than would kill hunger, maintain life, and yield sufficient content to nature, according to their habit and custom. And though they had good laws, which are seldom born where the sword governs, yet there was no perfect execution of them ; neither could they have any settled government, being always, or the most part of their time, in broils, contentions, civil wars, or molested with foreign invasions ; often also subject to the vicissitudes of new conquerors, or oppressors, tossed and harrowed from place to place : and therefore had httle reason, less leisure and opportunity, and least of all a desire to apply themselves to things which accompany peace, and are the associates and ornaments of civil and settled societies. But no sooner began the sun of quietness, peace, and tranquihty to spread his sweet, bright, and comfortable beams of rest and cahnness (after those storms,) upon this hemisphere, but there was suddenly a strange alteration in the whole superjficies of the land : for viewing the now present state, comparing it with those former ages we have spoken of, you cannot but marvel, admire, yea! wonder at the strange metamorphosis for the better. For, first of all, being deforested by King John (the copy of whose patent, being, as I suppose, not obvious, and divers may be desirous to see it, I will hereafter, in some convenient place, transcribe,) the mountains and stony hills, then full of brakes, woods, and bushments, are now (cast as it were in a new mould,) transformed into large fruitful corn-fields: for, one planting and another watering, God hath blessed their labours with wished profit. The plains yielding nothing but furze, broom and heath, (or Uttle better,) fit shelter and security for badgers, foxes, and beasts of that nature, are now changed into fair leasowes, pastures, and feedings ; dia- pered with variety of pleasant flowers : and where these ravenous beasts of prey had their dens and burrows, houses are now erected, towns, and tem- ples for the service of God; and the valleys, naturally bringing forth nothing (for the most part) but thistles, sedges, briers, water-flags, and burrs, and such unprofitable stufi", are now (weeded of these,) altered and translated into pleasant meadows and marshes, (stocked with herds of cattle and flocks of sheep,) plentifully aiTayed with wholesome herbs and fragrant flowers, bordered with fruitful trees, with verdure of all flourishing things, (agreeing with the nature of our climate; — F 38 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE, [BoOK I. Where heat kills not the cold, nor cold expels the heat, Nor calms too mildly small, nor winds too roughly great;) either for food or physic, profit or pleasure; useful for us, and that plenti- fullv, so that to read what we find it hath been said to be in elder times, and to see what we do at this present, we might be persuaded to think that what the ancients have written was either in jest, or believe it as a di-eam : but I rather think, as the poet Claudian rightly speaks, — ■ " Rerumque remotas Ingeniosa vias paulatim explorat egestas." Want did inforce them with a sharp edge of wit To seek out things remote, unknown as yet. We cannot allow ourselves the leisure to think upon the particularities of every thing ; it would be laborious, tedious, and unnecessary ; and the nature of our undertaking will not brook to have every thing described at large: you shall have the generals briefly. Of grain we want no sort that the kingdom yields. We are also furnished with great variety of fruits, and of most of them sundry choice of species. Of herbs and plants, such diversity in colour, fashion, taste, smell, and nature, as Gerrard's best aid will hardly be able to describe them. And for variety of flowers ; (for those are not unsought for neither of our ladies and gently) lady Flora herself (though canonized by the Romans for a goddess,) wiU be to seek, to find out, or coin names severally to distinguish them. Some quantity of timber we have yet left of the great store we had in elder times : for as trade and trafiic began and increased, that commodity was lessened to build ships: and as the inhabitants multipUed, so fields were grubbed for enlarging of tillage, as far more necessary and needful: and as wealth augmented, the hke vastation was made thereof for building of towns, and in fine, fair and large houses, both in city and country. For fish, because you shall judge and beheve me in the rest, I will give your caterer a bill (such as was once given me by Mr. Mayor's officer) what our market yields, for our better remembrance : but our unskilfulness to marshall them in their due place hath caused me to follow the alphabet: — Chap. VI.J VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. 39 A. I>OYy. Haddock. o. Sharpe, Anchovies. Dabb. Housewife. Oysters. Sturgeon. B. Dogfish. K. p. Stockfish. Bass. E. Kites. Porpoise. Sole. Bream. Eels. L. Fingers, Smelt. Buckles. p. Ling. Plaice. Sprat. Bulheads. Flookes, Limpets. Pipers. Sparklings Buckhom. Flounders. Lumpe, (or Peel. Scallops, i^ Sea Owl.) Penecot. Shrimps. c. (x. Lobsters. Perch. Carp. Gurnard. Lampreys. PoUock. T, Conger. Graveling. Loaches. Pilchard. Turbot, Colfish. GuUthead. M. R. Trout. Cod. Gofion. Mackrell. Roach. Tench. Chubb. Gudgeon. MUwill. Ray. Tubdure. Cockles. H. Muscells. Rochet. Tunny. Crab. Herring. Mullet. s. Thornback Crevice. Hake. Millers. Scad. w. Cree. Haberdine. Minows. Salmon. Whiting. D. Hound. N. Shott. Whelks. Dace. Holibut. Newlandfish Seal. Wrinkles. It might be much more enlarged, but your sewer shall stand no longer at the dresser, lest the first dish be stale ere the last come to the table. Yet, notwithstanding, I will here confess that had you supped with Aulus Gellius, the Roman Emperor, you might say my biU came much too short; yea! by 1800: for, as Suetonius, in lib. 9. and Josephus, hb. 5. alledge, he was served at one meal with 2000; (if you please to beheve there are so many species of fish;) but he had indeed a large country to make his provision in, the whole then known world. Some part of this kingdom was called the garden of Ceres and granary of the western world, and many times supplied the Romans' wants: so from hence they might make some provision of fish to make out the full number. But for the other supper of 7000, divers kinds of fowl, I will not undertake to name them here, nor in Africa, and Asia, with all the assistance that Gesnerus can afibrd me. By this time you know how our country is provided of entertainment for 40 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK I. diet and travel, both for horse and foot. Of other commodities I shall more conveniently speak elsewhere hereafter. Now I do remember my promise, and will according thereunto give you a sight of the charter of King John for disafforesting Devonshire, except Dartmoor and Exmoor.* Memorandum, quod carta originahs Regis Anglie de Libertatibus Comi- tates Devonie remanet in custodia Abbatis et ConventAs Tavestock, sub h^c forma. Henricus Dei gratis Rex Anghe, Dominus Hibernie, Dux Normanie, Aquitanie, et Comes Andegavie, Archiepiscopis, Episcopis, Abbatibus, Prioribus, Comitibus, Baronibus, Justiciariis, Forestariis, Vicecomitibus, Prepositis, Ministris, et omnibus BalHvis et fidelibus suis, Salutem: Inspex- imus cartam quam Dominus Johannes Rex, Pater noster, fecit omnibus hominibus de tot^ Devoni^ in hec verba. Johannes, Dei gratia Rex Anglie, Dominus Hibernie, Dux Normanie et Aquitanie, Comes Andegavie, Archiepiscopis, Episcopis, Abbatibus, Comiti- bus, Baronibus, Justiciariis, Forestariis, Vicecomitibus, Prepositis, Ministris et omnibus Ballivis et fidehbus suis, Salutem. Sciatis nos deforestasse totam Devoniam de omnibus que ad Forestam et ad Forestarios pertinent, usque ad metas antiquorum regardorum de Dertemor^ et ExemorA, que regarda fuerunt tempore Regis Henrici primi: ita quod tota Devonia et homines in e^ manentes et heredes eorum sint deafforestati omnino, et quieti et soluti de nobis et heredibus nostris imperpetuum de omnibus que ad Forestam et ad Forestarios pertinent, Exceptis duabus moris prenomi- natis, scilicet, Dertemore et Exemore, per predictas metas. Volumus etiam et concedimus quod predicti homines de DevoniA et heredes eorum habeant consuetudines infra Regarda morarum illarum, sicut habere consueverant tempore predicti Regis Henrici, faciendo inde consuetudines quas inde facere tunc consueverant et debuerant ; et quod liceat eis qui voluerint extra predictas metas essartare, parcos facere, omnimodam venationem capere, canes, arcus et sagittas, et alia omnimoda arma habere, et sana- toria facere, nisi in Divisis predictarum morarum, ubi non poterunt salta- toria vel haias facere. Et si canes eorum excurrerint in Forestam nostram, * As the Author's copy is very incorrect, we have thought it more satisfactory to supply a Transcript from fol. 152 of the Register of Walter Stapeldon, Bishop of Exeter: the original was kept, A. D. 1320, at Tavistock Abbey. — G. 0., — P. J. Chap, VI.] view of Devonshire. 41 volumus quod ipsi inde deducantur, sicut et alii Barones et milites inde deducuntur qui sunt deafForestati, et quod marchiant alibi foreste nostre. Et volumus quod unus turnus Vicecomitis tantum fiat per annum in comi- tatu Devonie, et ille turnus fiat post festum Sancti Michaelis, ad inquiren- diun Placita Corone, et alia que ad Coronam pertinent sine occasionibus alicui faciendis, et quod plures tumos non faciat, nisi pro Placitis Corone, cum evenerint attachiandis cum coronatoribus et propter paeem assecu- randam. Ita quidem quod in itinere illo nichil capiat ad opus suum. De personibus vero qui capti fuerint in comitatu Devonie, de quibus vicecomes habeat potestatem eos replegiandi, et quorum plegiagium comitatus Devonie voluerit super se capere, volumus et concedimus quod per consilium eorum replegientur; ita quod per odium vel occasionem vicecomitis ulterius in prison^ non detineantur. Et si vicecomes injuste gravaverit predictos homines Devonie, et inde convictus fuerit, incidet in misericordiam nostram, et nos de eo misericordiam capiemus, et alium vicecomitem "eis substitu- emus, qui eos bene et legaliter tractabit. Teste, Domino Hereberto, Sarum Episcopo; Galfrido, filio Petri, Comite Essex; Baldwino, Comite Alber- marlici WUlelmo, Comite de Fferariis; Henrico, Comite Hereford; Willel- mo de Braos; Hugone de Nevill; Willelmo Briwerr; Simone de Pateshull. Datum per manum Domini Simonis Cicestriensis electi, apud Wynton, decimo octavo die Maii, anno Regni nostri quinto. [5 John, 1204.] Nos autem concessiones predictas ratas habentes et gratas, eas pro nobis et heredibus nostris concedimus et confirmamus, sicut carta predicti Domini Johannis Regis, Patris nostri', plenius et hberius testatur. Hiis Testibus, Venerabili Patre Waltero, Eboraci Archiepiscopo, Anglie Primate; Petro de Sabaudia; Magistro WilUelmo de Kilkenny, Archidiacono Conventrie ; Ber- tramo de Croll; Ricardo de Grei; Johannede Grea; Roberto deBusteggs; Gileberto de Segrave ; Roberto Walerand; Bartholomeo Peech; Roberto de Noreis; Willielmo de Cheemy; Johanne de Gerres, et aliis. Datum per manum nostram apud Wyndeleshoure, vicesimo quinto Aprilis, anno Regni nostri tricesimo sexto. [37 Henry HI., 1253.] Et Nos, Walterus, permissione Diving Exoniensis Episcopus, existentes London, et videntes dictam originalem Cartam in manibus cujusdam Thome Neuleg\Ti, clerici dicti Abbatis, cum ips^ originali per fratrem Robertum Champeaux, tunc Abbatem Tavistochie, London ut dicebatur missi, Trans- 42 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [ BoOK I. criptum seu copiam ipsius ut suprascribitur nobis fieri fecimus, viii die mensis Octobris, anno Domini millesimo ccc™°' vicesimo, et Regni Regis Edwardi, filii Regis Edwardi, quarto decimo, et in hoc nostro Registro rescribi ad pleniorem memoriam futurorum. CHAPTER VII. The constitution, nature, and quality of the Inhabitants, This county, as it is populous, so are the natives of a good and healthy constitution of body; of proportion and stature generally tall, strong, and weU compact; active and apt for any forcible exercises ; (and if I may have leave to borrow a stranger's words in their encomium,) bold, martial, haughty of heart, prodigal of life, constant in affections, courteous to strangers, yet greedy of glory and honour. And Diodorus Siculus saith the Danmonii were accounted most civil and comteous people. And our pleasant witted poet, Michael, extoUeth them extraordinarily for valour and strength of body; and yet taketh not therein the liberty allowed to poets, to add to the subject whereof they write, but truly reporteth what is well known and seen by them perfomcied; who in activity surmount many other people, especially at foot-baU, hurling, and wresthng, wherein they are generally equal with the best in any county. And I may boldly say of my countrymen as Horace did of his, — " Luctamur Achivis doctior unctis." In wrestling we The skilful Greeks surpass in high degree. A full report of their skill in wrestling and nimbleness of body whereof the Danmonii have been and still are so famous you may find in the Survey of Chap. VII.] view of Devonshire. 43 Cornwall. But to make a question (as one hath done,) whether they have it from their first planter, Corineus, (that famous wrestler,) or from the nature of the chmate of the country, or (as I may best say,) from their diurnal practice, I think it will not be answered without some difficulty, unless you say from all. In knowledge of arts and variety of studies in all sciences and learning, very capable and ingenious; and hath yielded, and presently doth (whom in their convenient places I shall have fitter opportunity to remember,) as many worthy divines, civilians, physicians, and men excellent in all other professions and arts as are elsewhere in any so small a compass to be found. In matters of civil policy, causes of justice, judicature, and government of the common weal, wise, pregnant, and pohtic, discreet, and of sound judgment and integrity ; so that the chief seats of justice have been very often most worthily supphed : which this our age can very sufficiently tes- tify, as well as many former. For martial affairs, by land or sea, forward and valiant; and, as a great and noble commander of late times said of one, (intimating, as it seemed, the like in general,) in service, painful; in peril, resolute; in action, indus- trious; in execution, quick and ready; in council, provident; fierce, yet with judgment: as their fierceness was nothing abated by advisement, nor their advisement dazzled by their fierceness, but both so equally compounded and conjoined, that they have been bold to take quid non.'' for a motto, (as Sir Humphrey Gilbert.) Thus their valour and fortitude hath been misconstrued, and termed by some, audaciousness, and the actors, boisterous : but the action that procured them this harsh epithet I will offer to your censure, and will transcribe ver- batim in Speed's own words. — " There presented themselves" (saith he,) "unto him" (intending King Henry IV.) "a boisterous troop of plain western men, who brought unto his view three lords and twenty knights of note, their prisoners, and whom the country people near Dartmouth in Devon had gotten in plain fight. The king by them was given to understand that the Lord Castle, the Briton, (who had formerly burnt Plymouth,) thinking to do the Uke at Dartmouth, came on shore with his forces, where these and the like people fiercely en- countered them; at which their women, like Amazons, by hurling flints and 44 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK I. pebbles, and other such like artillery, did greatly advance their husbands' and kinsfolks' victory. The lord of Castle himself was slain, and many other together with him. These other were saved; as many more of them might have been, but the ignorance of language confounded ahke the cries of indignation and pity. They therefore, in reward of this hazard and service, do pray they may reap some commodity by their captives. It was but reason : wherefore the king, who took great pleasure to talk with these lusty Denshire-men, himself caused their purses to be stuffed with golden coin ; reserving the prisoners to pay himself with advantage out of their ransoms." Here it plainly appeareth that every hearer and author hath his private opinion, and every opinionist his peculiar judgment and censure; not always according to his true apprehension, but often agreeable to his melanchoUc ( I will not say envious, but asper) nature, by which he censureth other men and their actions, as here. But we neither hunt nor travel after men's opinions ; but when we shall see others perform the like actions, we do (and still will ) entitle them valiant, famous, illustrious, heroical. But not a word of this more, nor of them; only a verse of the poet Pindar, which he wrote to Lacedemonia, comes to my mind, in regard it may be fitly applied to this country: — " Their grave advice is found in aged brains ; Their gallant youths are lusty lads indeed, Which can both sing and dance in courtly trains. And daunt their foes with many a doughty deed." CHAPTER VHI. Of the sundry degrees of the Inhabitants, and the distinction of their vocations. In this province, as in all others of the kingdom, there are (as I conceive) but four degrees, or difference, in vocations. ( I meddle not with the supreme Chap, VIII.] view op Devonshire. 45 head and ecclesiastical dignities.) These may again be subdivided. But my purpose is not to speak of all such nice distinctions or precedences ; they are sufficiently treated of by men of far more sufficiency. The first of these I name nobility or gentility. (For nobility, generally taken in the largest extent, reacheth as well to gentlemen, as to them of higher degree and eminency which are entitled noble and honourable.) For, as one saith, " Nobilis est quasi noscibilis," a man worthy observa- tion, and deserving for his excellent merits to be distinguished from the common and vidgar sort; and that comprehends the honourable and wor- shipful, and of them all degrees, as with us, dukes, marquesses, earls, viscounts, barons, baronets, knights, esquires, and gentlemen; not only such as by descent from ancient and worthy parentage are so, but those also as by their own proper virtues, valiant actions, travels, learning, and other good deserts, have been, and daily are, by their Sovereign, advanced thereunto. But be it far from my intention to make comparison of equahty between them; for there are certain secret spirits, or seeds of virtue, inbred in nobility, and the issue of gentry, (apparent to every serious obsei-vation,) which yield rare and extraordinary fruit in glorious actions and heroical attempts; (exceeding vulgar strength;) yea! even in the blossom : rightly consorting with Plato's opinion, writing of the composition of man in his creation, who divides their nature into three species, according to the use or matter whereof they are formed. First in the generation of such as are formed for government, he hath mixed gold ; of whom there are no great multitude. (As the angel said to Esdras, " if thou askest the earth it will answer thee, that it yieldeth much matter to make pots, but little dust that produceth gold.) Secondly, to them that are destined to counsel and assist those governors and rulers, silver. But to the composition of plough-men, artisans, and rustics, me- chanical labourers, he hath put brass, lead, and iron. And it seemeth to my simple understanding, that Aristotle intendeth the self-same, when he speaks of natura dominus, et natura servus ; affirming expressly and positively some by nature are bom to rule and some to obey : but some take his words in another sense: yet so it is in the course of this world; base occupations and offices are meetest for folks of base minds and fortunes; and vahant and heroical spirits attempt actions of valour, honour, and virtue. G 46 VIEW OP DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK I, All men well and worthily desen^ing the name of prince and country, are to be esteemed as precious jewels of dear and high esteem, and their pos- terity persevering in their virtuous qualities, (the true stamp of nobility,) more excellent and of richer value than the most costly diamond set in gold; quia duplex in eo fulget dignitas propria et suoiiim. Of such Homer speaketh, — " For he is, questionless, a right born son That of his father hath not only won The person, but the wisdom; and that sire Complete, happy, that hath a son so entire." With him also joineth Pindar, when he speaketh of such as " Do match their noble ancestors In prowess of their own ; And by the fruit commend the stock Whence they themselves are grown." And the other, (if never so lately by virtue advanced,) jewels also of esteem, though set in brass, thi, or lead. It was the right and plain opinion of Lycurgus, the Lacedemonian law- maker, that so much as a man was virtuous, so much was he honourable: speaking to his fellow-citizens, who much vaunted and gloried of their de- scent from Hercules. But this discourse, whereunto I am casually fallen, befits an higher style and leameder pen : I will only conclude with one of the quadrans of Pibrack, — " If thou be born son of a prudent sire Why tread'st thou not in his fair beaten trace : If otherwise, why dost thou not desire, By virtuous deeds, to cover his disgrace ?" A double chgnity belongeth to this county, (for I speak of no other, nor to no other, than those within the precincts thereof,) where princes of state have borne the titles both of Devonshire and Exeter. Of which city there have been both earls, marquesses, and dukes entitled; of whom we shall have occasion, at fitter opportunity, to speak more at large hereafter. But of knightly rank this shire is fruitful ; by whose houses, as we pass. Chap. VIII.] view of Devonshire. 47 we will tell you of their worth and antiquity, and other occurrences as good occasion shall be offered : for albeit their houses bear not now their posses- sors' names, (as is recorded of some gentlemen of ancient race in other shires, though of most of them, it may be more rightly said, they have taken names from their seats ;) yet can they prescribe with many of those for an- tiquity, and not subscribe unto them in any point of worth. Some it also yields who are not propt and upheld by ancestry, (whose great grace might chalk their successors the way,) nor allied to strong and eminent assistance, and yet do give good and full assurance of their proper virtue and merit; who may pass for good in a strict muster, and current for weight and touch in payment upon bond. Let it not be as much as once thought that I comprise under these words any (if any there be, as there may be some,) that bv unworthy and unlawful means have amassed up abundance of riches, and being wealthy (and thereby ingrafFed themselves in some generous stock, take on them the attribute of esquires, (before they are gentlemen,) and perchance by mere intrusion: a mere synonime or sympathy in name with some ancient tribe, have stolen armoi'ies, (for these shifts, as I have heard, are sometimes made;) for such commonly are of base and unworthy condition and ignoble spirits. But for other gentry (I will speak boldly and confidently,) they are civil, affable, and kuid : courteous to strangers ; in their hospitahty, bountiful, and in their entertainment, loving and pleasant. Their ancient exercises have been archery, hurling, wrestling, foot-ball, dancing, and such hke forcible exercises of strength and activity; recrea- tmg and hardenmg, and enabhng their bodies and minds for more noble (though more uneasy and dangerous) martial employment; for which they are apt and in readiness with the foremost at all times. But these ex- ercises have been of late (by a strong and potent zeal, and a severe execution of laws,) forced out of the country, neglected and out of use; and hunting, hawking, and bowling crept in, and somewhat in request with the better sort; and with the inferior, actions of far worse quaUty. These generous persons are distinguished from the vulgar by certain privileges, immunities, and tokens, (as anciently the Grecian and Roman knights, by crowns of divers sorts, ruigs, chains, gilt spurs, and such like,) by rewarding virtue, honouring desert, animating and encouraging others with armories, crests, 48 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK I and cognizance of special and particular note. For, as a worthy learned lawyer saith, (meet to be noted and observed,) as names were first invented and given to distinguish one man from another, so was the bearing of arms to make a separation and difference between the noble, and the plebeian and ignoble. But this theme being of so high a strain requires to be handled seriously, by a most solid and sufficient abihty, and loftier phrase; and you should not have heard a word of me concerning it, yet it stood accidently so di- rectly in my way that I could not shun it; and being spoken but in this county, and to none but the natives thereof, I know it will not be misliked nor spread farther. CHAPTER IX. The second degree is of Yeomanry and Husbandmen. The next to these I place the yeomanry, (the gemen, or yemen; the g changed into ye; a commoner of the realm;) wliich consisteth of freehold- ers, farmers, men employed in agricultm-e, tilhng and manuring of land : in former time, franckhngs; for they are free, by law, nature, and disposi- tion, and well qualified in condition; yet not perchance of like ability of wealth with him whom noble Sir Geofiery Chaucer describeth under the title and style of a Frankhn, in these words, — "A Franklin there was in his company, White was his beard as the daisy, An householder, and that a great, was he. Sir Julian he was in his country. His table dormant in his hall alway Stood ready cover'd all the long day. Chap. IX.] view of Devonshire. 49 At Sessions was he lord and sire; Full oft times was he knight of the shire: A sheriff had he been, and a countor Was no where such a worthy vavasor." We will not meddle with his like; we are past such: I intend those that are intended by our laws — boni et legales homines; for the better sort of them are (together with our gentry) returned to pass upon trials of matters of fact, in causes civil and criminal; and are upon their oath to dehver the truth (as near as God shall give them grace) of the matter given them in charge, which allowed and sentenced by the judge, all matters are ended and controversies decided. Many matters of quaUty, in former times were tried in courts baron and the sheriiF's turn, where men of this rank were the triers and called barones comitatus — the barons of the county: now freeholders, — quia liberas in eis terras habent: and that not only in matters formerly named, but in probate of wills and testaments, questions of tithes, et debita verse religionis jura. Many of these with us are gentlemen, (descending from yomiger bro- thers,) or gentlemen's equals by estate, and are saluted with suitable terms of master : and live here indeed more frankly (according to that name,) and liberally (for the most part) than elsewhere; some having land in fee- simple of their own, others have leases from landlords for term of years or three lives, or by copy of court-roll; not at a rack-rent, or highest improvement, (as in some other countries,) but paying a fine at their income or taking, and do hold tenements worth some 100£. or 80£. or 50£. or 40£. per annum, for the rent of 10£. 8£. 5£. or 4£. per annum, or perchance less. Tlieir fine once paid and they out of debt, they live freely, contentedly, and richly. His endeavours for the most part are employed in husbandry, manuring liis land and feeding. He speaketh to his servants as a prince to his sub- jects, in the plm'al number, we will do this, or, let us do that; we will set forward such a business; as intending to participate with them (in some easy sort) in their labours, at least in direction thereof; and so is well as- sured to have it done to his liking. 50 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK I. So much O thou example dost effect, Being far a better master than commaud; That how to do, by doing dost direct, And teachest others actions by thy hand. His own eye fattens his flock, which yieldeth him both food and raiment, and setteth forth and deviseth sundry sorts of manure, making choice of that which best agreeth with the nature of the soil he dwelleth in. These are the hver-veins of the common wealth, yielding both good juice and nourishment to all other parts thereof. The meaner husbandman is of much inferior degree, employing himself wholly in labour and holding the plough: and of these men it is that the wise man putteth the question, and in conclusion answereth himself: — "How can he get wisdom that holdeth the plough, and he that glorieth only in managing of the goad to drive oxen, and is always busied in their labours, and talketh only of the breed of bullocks? he giveth his mind to turn fur- rows, and is diligent to give the kine fodder; yet these do maintain the state of the world, and their whole desire is knowledge in their work and occupation. Of some of either of these ranks (or of no degree else, as I suppose,) *it may be that Theocritus spake in these verses, — " The things I wish are neither wealth, Nor sceptre, robe, nor crown; Nor yet of swiftness, nor of strength, To bear away renown. " But singing with a merry heart, In simple shed to look Aloof upon the troub'lous seas That are so hard to brook." Chap. X.] view of Devonshire. 51 CHAPTER X. Of the Merchant, which is the third degree. Next stands forth the merchant, for the good of his country. These inhabit the towns : (yet many of them, of the richer sort, do purchase hv- ings in the country, in this county, by reason of the vicinity of the British and Severn seas:) they abound more than in the inland countries; and their trade much greater than in former ages, as in more diversity of regions, as generally in every place where gain is to be gotten; transporting cloth, tin, lead; (or wherewith we abound;) returning for it what is most needful for the common weal; (or profitable for themselves;) and are generally careful, frugal, and industrious; attaining thereby great wealth, worthy of their endeavours. Divers of them are esquires and gentlemen's vounger sons, who, by means of therr travel and transmigration, are very well qualified, apt, and fit to manage great and high offices in the republic ; some attaining to good places of preferment. In the days of King Canutus, or Knout, this was estabhshed as law or orduiance in their behalf, that if a merchant so thrived that he passed thrice over the wide sea of his own craft he was thenceforth a Thane; which was a title of dignity, (for the better understanding of which word, the living light of antiquity, Mr. Selden, must be your inter- preter.) But here I shall be strongly opposed by some Hippolitus a valli- bus, saying, a gentleman ceaseth to be generous and noble as soon as he beguineth trade in merchandising; yet perchance with some caution, i. e. unless it be otherwise provided by the statutes of some particular states, pro- vince, or city, as Venice, London, Florence, Genoa, Barcelona, or such like : and will also (it may be) alledge this speech of Cicero, "mercatura, si sit tenuis, est sordida putanda. Si magna et copiosa, multa, undique apportantia, multasque sine vanitate impaitiens, non est admodum vituperanda." — Poor merchandising is base and contemptible : but plentiful and rich abundantly, 52 VIEW OP DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK I. bringing home from all places necessary commodities, liberally imparting the same : it is not utterly to be despised. Both these, in their behalf, may be answered. The last by the reply of Dionides the pirate, who, being taken by Alexander the Great, and demanded why he robbed on the sea, answered, " I, because I keep the seas with one ship, am called a thief and a pirate; but thou, which robbest day and night both by sea and land, art called a king and a conqueror." So this distinction is confuted — " Quia majus et minus non variant speciem." And for the first the exception of one city clears all, as I suppose. So I cannot but number the honest merchant (exposing both goods and life to the hazard of infinite dangers, both by land and sea,) among the be- nefactors of the commonwealth, and worthy of praise and preferment; for true it is what the poet saith, — " Neque fervitlis Pars inclusa caloribus Mundi, nee Boreae finitimum lalus, Diiratseque sole nives Mercatorem abigant ; horrida callidi Vincunt aequora navitae." Nor southern heat, nor northern snow That freezing to the ground doth grow, The subject region can fence To keep the greedy merchant thence : The subtle ship-man way will find Storm never so the sea and wind. CHAPTER XI. Of the last degree, which is Day -Labourers in Tin-works, and Hirelings in Husbandry. \ "<./^'\'"V^'~V*^ The common day-labourer, or hireling, as meanest, is last remembered. I speak of them that work by week or day in husbandry labour, or there- Chap. XI.] view of Devonshire. 53 unto belonging, or in tin- works. Of the last are two sorts; one named a spador or searcher for tin, than whom (as it seems to me) no labourer whatsoever undergoes greater hazard of peril or danger, nor in hard or coarse fare and diet doth equal him: bread, the brownest; cheese, the hard- est; drink, the thinnest; yea, commonly the dew of heaven; which he taketh either from his shovel, or spade, or in the hollow of his hand ; as Diogenes, the cynic, was taught by a boy. He spends all day (or the major part thereof) like a mole or earth-worm undergound, mining in deep vaults or pits, as though he intended (with noble Sir Francis Drake) to find a way to the antipodes ; yea, a nearer, and so to surpass him : for it is sometime of that profundity, that notwithstanding the country (so they term the earth over their heads,) is propped, posted, crossed, traversed, and supported with divers great beams of timber to keep them in security, yet all is sometimes too little ; they perish with the fall thereof notwithstanding. Miserable men ! may some men say in regard of their labour and poverty ; yet having a kind of content therein, for that they aim at no better, they think not so; for having sufficient to supply nature's demand, they are satisfied; sleep soundly without careful thoughts, which most rich men want not, which are either greedy of more, or press nature with superfluities of provoking sauces, hot wines, waters and spices : for, as Horace speaketh, ■ Multa petentibus Desunt multa ; bene est cui Deus obtulit Parca quod satis est manu." Who much do crave, of much have need ; But well is he whom God indeed, Though with a sparing hand, doth feed. But if you will not give credit to him, hearken what the kingly prophet, David, saith, — " Doubtless the poor man's just estate Is better, a great deal more, Than all the lewd and worldly man's Rich pomp and heated store." The other is also a day-labourer, but at husbandry or at work belonging H 54 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK !• thereunto. He labours without danger and much more easily, dieteth more liberally and after a better sort. Both are generally of a strong constitution of body to vmdertake any painful action, by their rustic, un-nice, and la- borious education. Their holy-days' exercises were also toilsome and violent, as wrestling, hurling, foot-ball, leaping, running, dancing with music, especially in their festivals, to exhilarate their hearts and such like ; which made them fit for the wars or any other employment whatsoever, wherein hardiness, or strength, or agility was required. But these exercises are, by zeal, dis- commended and discountenanced, and so utterly out of use ; yet no better, nor any so good, used in their stead ; which may in time breed some in- conveniencies : but no more of this lest it bring me some also. These people though the most inferior, are yet, notwithstanding, liberi homines — free-men of state and condition: no slaves. Of these the wise man saith, " they are not asked nor sought for in pubhc council, nor yet high in the congregation, nor are placed m the judge's seat, nor imderstand they the order of justice. They cannot declare matters according to the form of law; nor are they meet for hard parables: yet without these cannot a city be inhabited nor occupied." But I will now tack about and alter my course fi*om the country people to the country soil , and speak somewhat of the pleasures and commodities thereof. CHAPTER Xn. Of the Commodities this Country yields, and of Agriculture and Husbandry. '*^^.^^.'^'-^• ^ The chiefest things which yield a grace and glory to this kingdom and have the chiefest commendation, are in this one only verse comprised, — "Anglia, mons, pons, fons, ecclesia, fcemina, lana." Which may thus be poorly Englished, — Chap. XII.] view op Devonshire. 55 Of stately churches England hath great store : Of pleasant hills and fountains, many more : Bridges, large and fair; and dames, for beauty rare; And finest wool it hath without compare. Or thus, more briefly, — England hath store of bridges, hills, and wool ; Of churches, wells, and women beautiful. Of each of these much might be spoken; but the chiefest commodities of this province I wiU comprise within these four heads especially, husbandly, clothing, mining, and navigation. But these may require to be subdivided, and every one severally to be spoken of : and therefore first of husbandry. This consisteth in the culture, manurance, and tillage, with the improve- ment of grounds ; which is the mistress or lady of aU mechanical arts : than which there is none more necessary, none more laudable, nor better agree- ing with nature, neither more decently or worthily beseeming a free, gentle, or generous spirit. This soil, as is formerly said, being hilly and mountainous, cannot be by nature fruitftd, (the meadows and marsh feedings only excepted,) but requir- eth and expecteth some help by the labours and manurance of the husband- man ; who spareth no cost, refuseth no pains, leaveth nothing untried whereby he may, in any sort, enrich his land and make it more bearable, profitable, and fruitful : and therefore, according to the nature of the soil where he inhabiteth, accommodateth liis manui'ance, which is very diverse and of sundry sorts. Those that are near neighbours to the sea, on either side, gather a certain weed growing on the rocks, which they name oare, spreading it on the earth, whereby it yields a rich crop. This kind of manurance, I should have thought, newly invented, had I not been otherwise informed by Mr. Chapman, out of the old poet Homer, where I find this of its antiquity, — "And as two lateral sited winds, The west wind and the nore, Meet at the Thracian sea's black breast, Join in a sudden blore, 56 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK I. Tumble together the dark waves And pour upon the shore A mighty deal of froth and oare, With which men manure ground," &c. Others, at low water, gather the sea-sand that by some storm or violent tide is thrown and forced into the creeks, and therewith quicken their land; than which there is no better manurance for grass, and good also for corn. In very coarse and barren heathy and furze ground, remoted from the sea, they cut the superficies, upper face, or spine of the soil with mattocks into turf, which, after it hath lain some while and is withered and dried by the heat of the sun, they cast together into small hillocks, Uke little hay- cocks, and with some combustible matter (as furze, ferns, straw, or such like,) fire it; which, burnt to ashes, they spread them for manurance, which for one harvest yields profit : and this they name peat-burning. Another very ancient improvement is also yet used among them : whereof Pliny wrote in his time thus, — "they dig marie out of deep pits like unto tin-works, and the land therewith covered will be bettered some 80 years following." We use the same, but it will hardly hold out the fourth part of that long time. This is of divers sorts both in colour and substance; but not to be particularly remembered here. Late practices we have begun within the memory of old men, as chimney ashes, soap ashes, (dear and much in request,) salt also; and now newly and most in use, lime, which is employed many several ways. All these, with fallowing, folding, compost, and such like, do yield (though with no small charge,) good increase at harvest, and better the succeedmg pasture. They are also very ingenious and careful for conveying and converting of watercourses, whereby they reap good benefit for increase of pasture in dry land, which is commonly effected with less charge than any of the for- mer, for this once perfected needs little farther cost nor much labour. They have of late years much enlarged their orchards, and are very curi- ous in planting and grafting all kinds of fruits, for all seasons, of which they make good use and profit, both for furnishing their own table as fur- nishing of the neighbour markets. But most especially for making of cider, a drink both pleasant and healthy ; much desired of seamen for long southern voyages, as more fit to Chap. XII. J view of Devonshire. 57 make beverage than beer, and much cheaper and easier to be had than wine. All these, with many other kinds of manurances, as dressing of corn for seed by steeping it in certain liquors, mixtures, and powders, (at first like new fruit much longed for and sought after, but that desire was soon satis- fied ;) setting corn also, and other hke, far too tedious to be spoken of. Yet all these are the more beneficial in that the land is enclosed and severed with strong fences, hedges, and dykes ; which bringeth with it these farther several commodities, as sheltering cattle and sheep in violent storms and extremity of wind, snow, and such like weather; and their beasts also, by their sundry changes in divers pastures, feed still as in a new spring, need- ing neither cowherd nor shepherd ; and at the plashing and stooping down of their hedges it yields to the owner sufficient fuel for their fire all year long. By these diversities of improvements they have much beautified and en- riched their soil, so that the inhabitants will not easily be persuaded to yield (the authority of reverend Mr. Camden notwithstanding,) the precedency of good husbandly in the three special points, viz, of skill to invent and de- vise, abihty to undergo the charge, and willingness to undertake the painful labour and toil thereof, not to Gormancester, (in Huntingdonshire,) so highly by him commended and praised : for here you may behold a certain kind (as it were) of emulation; what seems to be defective in the one is suppUed by the industry of the other. But this much of this matter will seem to some overmuch, for it cannot but be thought a wide digression , if not a wandering clean out of the way, when the intent is to give you a View of the country. I read you a lecture of husbandry, supposed to be taken out of Mr. Tusser, or his Hke ; but be content, there is no such matter; I only acquaint you with the industry of the husbandmen of this country, and how to their great charge and greater commendation they have brought the soil so profitable that it is some years able to maintain the multitude of the inhabitants. And for the love I bear them I wish I could teach them a point or two either in the theory or practice of husbandry; for it could not but be pleasing to every (and not offensive to any) degree; for of all vocations there is none more honest, more commendable, nor better befitting a gen- 58 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [ BoOK I. tleman : all of which degree, of what state soever, (not called to great and serious employments in the republic,) I could wish them not to think it a disparagement to their generosity, while the most renowned of the noble ancient Romans, as Serranus, Curius, Cincinnatus, Torquatus, Cato, are so highly extolled by historians, for that they estabhshed the quiet and tranqui- lity of their country with hands worn, hardened, and grown rough with holding the plough and husbandry labour. And King Cyrus (that I speak not of the patriarch Noah, whom the holy scripture names a husbandman, and other,) did often gloriously relate his skill, labour, and industry in agriculture. They that exercised it in elder times were privileged with many immuni- ties or freedoms, overlong to be repeated aU. Some few that serve as that he might lay any exception peremptory, after sentence given, wherein he was equally privileged with the soldier and knight: again, that his cattle and plough, with other things belonging to his necessary uses, as cloths and household stuff, could not be taken in execution for a distress or pledge. And I have been also taught, that there is a rule in o\ir common laws that where a gentleman is sued by the name of husbandman, he may only say (though he exercise husbandry,) that he is a gentleman and demand judg- ment of the writ, without saying that he is no husbandman. For though a gentleman profess husbandry, he ought to be sued by his more worthy addition. Neither do our laws on this point differ from the laws and practice of other nations. Yea, the farthest Indians, most rude and uncivil, refrained to use force against ploughmen and tillers of the land, even in time of wars ; reputing them sacred, and the most chief and necessary ministers of the common wealth. But hereof enough, if not overmuch : but it serveth to so good purpose, that sooner I could not conveniently end my tale. Chap. XIII.] view of Devonshire. 59 CHAPTER XIII. Of the second commodity, of Clothing and Drapery. Lanipicium, the skiU and knowledge of making cloth, is another most beneficial manufacture practised in this country; under which genus are contained the species of spinning, knitting, weaving, tucking, pressing, dying, carding, combing, and such hke. This art, or hand-work, is lauda- ble for antiquity, and needful for necessity in supplying our wants, with apparel to keep warm our weak bodies in extremity of weather, and cover decently our nakedness lest we should offend God, and be like beastly savages, or savage beasts. And this province, for quantity, quality, and variety (in these three kinds, I am confident to say,) may compare with, if not exceed, most countries. Let it be supposed (as some have written,) that we wrought at first but fryzes and plain coarse cloth, until the time of Edward IV., when (as a curious searcher of antiquities and inventor of things saith) one Anthony Bonvise, an Italian, taught us the knowledge of making kersies and our women to spin with the distaff: no marvel at all, for such cloth was fine enough in that age, when kings wore a pair of hose but of three shillings price; as the old poet, Robert of Glocester, telleth us in these ancient words, of King WilUam Rufus, — * "As his chamberlain him brought, as he ros a day, A morrow for to wear, a pair hose of say, He asked what he costned ; three shilling said the other. Fie a debles, quoth the king, who say so vile deed ? King to wear any cloth, but it costned more : Buy a pair of a mark, other thoushalt be acorye [corrected] sore. A worse pair of ynou the other swith him brought. And said they were for a mark, and unnethe so he bought. Yea bel amy, quoth the king, they were well bought ; In this manner serve me, other thou ne shall me serve not." * The original passage may be seen in his Chronicle, 0.\ford 1724, vol. 2, page 390. G. O.,— P. J. 60 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK I. But to our kersies, which are well known in most countries ; into which sort of cloth we converted at first, only the wool grown in our own country, which indeed is more than any stranger traveUing only through the country can weU perceive or think; for her sheep are not to be seen in great flocks as in champaign countries, but are palliated under the coverture of the high-grown hedges of enclosures, (Dartmoor, Exmoor, and some other hills of common pasture excepted,) yet are there good plenty, and for the most part good. But they now work Cornish and Dorset wools, and are also supplied out of divers other parts of the land ; as weekly from London, (though distant from us, by the new measure, 150 miles,) Glocester, Worcester, Warwick, Wales, and Ireland : all which is here wrought into some sort of cloth or stuffs ; wherein most towTis have appropriated to themselves a several or peculiar kind, which I may not forbear to particularize, (though as briefly as may be,) the better to express their industrious hands and minds, apti- tude to learn, and diligent labour herein, as in other matters, whereby the kingdom is generally enriched, and the multitude of the poor people thereof not only kept from idleness and wandering abroad, but well maintained and relieved, as those also of other inland countries that after a poor voyage are here set on shore, sometimes in great number, and penury, and weakness. The north and south parts of this county (as was formerly said,) border- ing on the seas, is by nature aptly fitted with convenient ports, to transport and vent these commodities into foreign countries, whereby it hath engrossed great trade, yea, well near the drapery of the western parts, and thereby grown so populous that albeit in former times it was able to spare, very conveniently, com, fat beeves and muttons, and such like victuahng commodi- ties, for supplying the wants of other countries when they needed, it is now hardly able to feed itself in any large sort, communibus annis, the fruitful- ness, dexterity, and promptitude of the inhabitants (as is formerly said,) notwithstanding. The diversity of cloths and stuffs newly devised in this province gives me fit occasion to remember a prediction of Seneca, when he said, "multa veni- entis sevi populus ignota nobis sciet," — future ages will invent many things to us unknown. The late made stuff of serges, or perpetuanos, is now in great use and Chap. XIII.] view of Devonshire. 61 request with us, wherewith the market at Exeter is abundantly furnished of all sorts and prices; fine, coarse, broad, narrow; the number wll hardly be credited. Tiverton hath also such store in kersies as (the neighbourhood of other markets considered,) will not be believed. Crediton yields many of the finest sort of kersies ; for which, and for fine spinning, it hath had the pre-eminence. Totnes, and some other places near it, hath had, besides these, a sort of coarse cloth which they call narrow-pin- whites; not else- where made. Barnstable and Torrington furnish us with bays, single and double; frizados, and such like: and Pilton, adjoining, vents cottons for hning; so coarse a stufi^ as there was a vce or woe pronounced against them in these words, — "Woe unto you Piltonians, that make cloth without wool." At Tavistock there is also a good market for cloth. And for other commodities of the like nature, without any great difie- rence, at Axminster you may be furnished with fine flax thread there spun. At Honiton and Bradnidge with bone lace, much in request. Ottery St. Mary, with divers other places, hath mixed coloured kersies. CuUumton, kersey stockings ; and Comb-Martin serves the whole county, and other places, with shoemakers' thread. This might be enlarged with other petty commodities belonging to other towns, besides the generality of knitting worsted and yarning stockings, spinning of worsted thread for women's working in every town. And here were a meet place to conclude this discourse, but that the mat- ter requires that we consider how many participate herein, and how many it concerns and are daily working herein. First the gentleman farmer, or husbandman, sends his wool to the market, which is bought either by the comber or spinster, and they, the next week, bring it thither again in yarn, which the weaver buys; and the market following brings that thither again in cloth; where it is sold either to the clothier, (who sends it to London,) or to the merchant who (after it hath passed the fuUer's mill, and sometimes the dyer's vat,) transports it. The large quantities whereof cannot be well guessed at, but best known to the custom-book, whereunto it yields no small commodity. And this is continued all the year throughout. This cloth-working I have named a commodity of this country, and so is it generally taken to be, and I suppose you conceive it so; and so indeed it is a great one to the kingdom. But I may tell you secretly in council, not 62 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK I. SO much for this country, (some few excepted,) to whom it is more burden- some than profitable ; for having engrossed so great a trade, it hath made the towns and country so populous, that notwithstanding all their best en- deavours in husbandry, yet yields hardly sufficient of bread, beer, and victual to feed itself, (notwithstanding the plenty of fish,) but is commonly behold- en to Wales and Ireland ; and in anno 1610 there was as much com brought into one harbour (that I speak not of the rest,) as was sold to the countr\^ for 60,000£. I speak not with the most. And in every rumour of war or contagious sickness (hindering the sale of these commodities,) makes a multitude of the poorer sort chargeable to their neighbours, who are bound to maintain them. The meanest sort of people also will now rather place their children to some of these mechanical trades than to husbandry, (es- teemed more painful,) whereby husbandry-labourers are more scarce, and hirelings more dear, than in former times, so that the generality may say of this trade as Virgil of his verses, whereof Bathillus had both praise and profit : — " Hos ego versiculos feci, tulit alter honores. Sic vos non vobis nidificatis aves ; Sic vos non vobis vellera fertis eves ; Sic vos non vobis mellificatis apes ; Sic vos non vobis fertis aratra boves." This verse I made, another had, The profit that I lack ; So sheep a fleece do bear, and leese, To clothe another's back. So bees, to feed another's need. From flowers do honey gather ; So oxen toil and plough the soil, And yet for others labour. So birds nests build, their labour yield No profit for their pains : We spin and card, and weave full hard. While others have the gains. But not a word of this in any case, especially that I told you so; and we win proceed to the next and speak of mines. Chap. XIV.] view of Devonshire. 63 CHAPTER XIV. Of Mines and Quarries of Stone; and of the several sorts of either of them. The mines of this country have heen also very profitable, which I the rather remember, for that they are not found generally in eveiy country, and will therefore require a more particular description; most especially in regard of the species of them, as gold, (in small quantity and httle grains,) silver, copper, tin, lead, iron, and the loadstone, with other minerals: all which have been (and some also are now) very commodious to our Sove- reign, and the owners and workers of them. For the two first sorts I shall have somewhat to do, perchance, to procure behef; for that Cicero, in his 4th book ad Atticum (when the first news was brought to Rome that Caesar had attempted the conquest of this country,) said, jesting at him, " Cognitum est iUud, quod nee argenti scrupulum imum in Brittannia, neque spem uUam praedae nisi in mancipiis;" — "It is most certainly known that the island of Britain yields not so much as a scruple of silver, or any other hope of gain but by captives and slaves :" and Csesar himself thought the like of copper, saying, " the Britons had the use of copper, but it was brought them from transmarine countries." Yet for the antiquity of mines here I can tell you, out of Polybius, (that ancient Greek writer who accompanied Scipio in his wars some 209 years before the Incarnation of our Saviour, the 3720th from the creation, as some have made computation,) that the island of Britain is plenteously stored with metals; and Strabo, together with Diodorus Siculus, do plainly deHver that mines of silver and tin were wrought in these western parts of the kingdom long before the Romans arrived here : and that mineral knowledge was first taught in this country by -^thicus, that admirable Scythian, or Thessalian, philosopher: and I dare confidently aver that if Cicero had, with Pythagoras, made transmigration into another body, and hved in this country and age. 64 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK I. he would recant his words and yield us a better verdict and report both for our minerals and civility; and without peradventure meet with divers I could name that would fully match him in his own proper weapons — eloquence. Some also of our neoterick writers have erred in the same opinion, sup- posing our climate not warm enough to produce gold or silver; relying more on natural reason than God's special blessing. But to come nearer this age by degrees, and speak of the working of these mines. After the Romans had left this kingdom poor and weak, the Saxons, their immediate successors, wrought them; yet in times of wars and troubles, it might be but in small manner. But after the Norman conquest, in the time of Edward I., or his father, Henry III., they were diligently applied: for albeit the stanneries and politic government of the same were before their time, (as may appear by the charters of those kings,) yet not after so direct and legal foi-m as in their days, and now at this present : for then, Edmund Earl of Cornwall (son to Richard, King of the Romans, the uncle to the said King Edward,) did, by the favour and approvement of the Sovereign, perfect those laws for their better government ; appointing courts a mense in mensem, to be kept in several places where the coinage was, and ordinary custom paid; which, thus established, hath ever since continued, to the great benefit of the then Earldom, now Duchy of Cornwall, and maintenance of many good families in the country, and profit of many other places; London especially, where it is wrought into divers sorts of vessels and transported into foreign countries. But he that desires to know somewhat of the diversity of loads, and the manner of finding, digging, washing, melting, refining, let him read the same in the labours of Richard Carew, of Antony, Esq. : and of the go- vernment of the stanneries I shall have fitter occasion to speak more largely elsewhere. And now to speak of our silver mines, much more in request. It is very apparent, by divers records and manuscripts, not to be contradicted, that the said Edward I. made much use and profit of them in this province; and after him his grandson. King Edward III., and the supplanter of his succes- sor, Henry IV.; but most chiefly his son. King Henry V., for the better maintenance of his wars in France, especially at Combe-Martin, where there Chap. XIV.] view of Devonshire. 65 were of late (and I am assured yet are,) divers monuments remaining of them: — one, the king's mine; the king's store house, blowing house, and refining house. And in our time, in the latter age of Queen Elizabeth, there was a new rich load found there, in the lands of Richard Roberts, gent., wherein I now claim an interest, and wrought by Adrian Gilbert, esq., and after by Sir Beavois Bulmer, knt., by whose absolute and excellent skiU in mineral knowledge a great quantity of silver was raised and refined there. Those mines have been lately renewed, but by such as relied upon silver hopes, but wanted either skill, or abiUty, or both, to proceed in a business of that weight and quality; and therefore, as the poet saith, — " Sed inutile fecit Ille male usurus donis;"- But he made them unprofitable: To use them well being unable ; and therefore had answerable success. Mines of tin are many wheres, and in several places, but chiefly in and about Dartmoor and the purlieus thereof. Lead mines, intermixed with silver, in Comb-Martin. Iron mines were sometimes wrought near North- Molton and Molland; but in our time by Brent, Ashburton, and Hole: Copper at Newton-Ferrers. And at Brent a mine, rather quarry if you please, of load-stones: in Latin, magnes, a precious gem, and of admirable use; the quality whereof is generally known, but in most especial use with the navigators, directing the needle of their compass (being but sHghtly touched therewith) to the north pole : a jewel far excelling all other pre- cious stones, were they not so plentifully to be sold and bought. Great difi'erence there is of opinions among writers concerning the invention or first knowledge of the virtues and use of these stones. Some thmk it to be as ancient as Solomon's time, and that by the help thereof his fleet per- formed the Ophirian voyages: to which others reply, that then he might have performed that course in far shorter time than three years : whereby it is supposed that the virtue hereof hath been unknown until these latter ages, and then discovered by one named, as they say, Flavio, of Malfi, not 66 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK I. far from Naples; (1013;) before which time the exact and perfect skill of navigation was unknown. But whether by him, or brought us from China by Marcus Paulus Venetus, it is yet uncertain; and not much material, said one, when such a matter was in question, for he said, — "As for my part I care not a jot Whether I know him or know him not." Yet I am of another mind, wishing the man (to whom God hath given so rare a judgment and knowledge to seek out those hidden secrets of nature, in any age, of what quahty soever, so much for the benefit of mankind,) per- petual remembrance with deserved honour; for so hath divine Du Bartas thought fit to give him in those eloquent and excellent verses of his con- cerning him and his invention, — " W are to Ceres not so much bound for bread, Neither to Bacchus for his clusters red, As Signior Flavio, to thy witty trial. For first inventing of the seaman's dial : "The use of the needle turning in the same Divine device ; O! admirable frame; Whereby through the ocean in the darkest night Our highest carracks are conducted right." These stones were said (upon what reason or assurance I know not,) to be male and female, difiering both in virtue and colour. Those so found here were not much in request; for that those brought from the Persian gulph near Ormus are said much to excel them in their virtuous qualities. Now I have ended with mines, yet not with minerals; for I may not si- lently pass the quarries of stone for building, which are to be found almost every where; but so various in sand, colour, quahty, quantity, and substance, that it is impossible to distinguish them by several names or description: I wUl therefore speak of three, not long since found, for their rarity. Two of them, if not perfect porphyry, yet equaUing it in beauty ; one of a dun- nish, murrie colour, diapered with blue and green, with running veins also of white; the other of marble dye intermixed with white of divers forms and fashions, very delightful to the spectator's eye. These polished by the Chap. XV.] view of Devonshire. 67 hand of a skilful artificer make excellent fair buildings ; for arising three or four feet in length and in largeness accordingly, whereof are made columns, pillars, pilasters, and such like work. The discovery of these was lately in Berry- Pomeroy, (as I am informed,) where is the seat of a noble gentleman. Sir Edward Seimar, knt. and bart. The third is natural touch- stone; some arising nine foot in length and one in thickness, or, if you please, more thick. This quarry is on the river Dart, on the west side of it. Here I will omit, what might be the seed of a great crop of discourse and argument, probably of either side, whether stones do grow; but for that in this treatise I shall pass over many things more necessary to be spoken of for their worth, am not purposed to handle needless, especially over and above my strength. CHAPTER XV. Of Mariners, Shipping, and Fishing. Seafaring men and means, I intend mariners and shipping, is another and no slender (I assure you,) commodity to the kingdom in general, and this county in particular, in time either of war or peace, for merchandising or fishing ; with whom, from hence, upon all occasions, our sovereign's navy (the sinews of our strength,) is partly manned and furnished; for our havens are well replenished with shipping fit for war or peace ; and them employed in merchants' affairs or in fishing voyages, upon our own coasts, and else- where in many fair remote countries, as Canada, Virginia, Newfoundland, and other regions, whence much fish is l)rought home : or, in times of peace, into the Straits, Spain, or Portugal, with profitable return; and in Ire- land, and Clovelly and Linmouth upon our own northern coasts for her- ring, the king of fishes; and upon our southern coasts, generally throughout 68 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK I. all, for pilchards, presei-ved and sundry ways prepared is a very vendible and profitable commodity. The variety of sundry other dainty fish taken on our coasts are elsewhere spoken of. Concerning their adventuring for whales upon the coasts of Iceland, and somewhere for the sea horse, how it is now in practice I can say little, but in former times good use hath been made thereof. A far larger discourse and much more might be spoken in commendation hereof, but I affect brevity, and therefore, in a word, this will I say (and confidently) of our mariners, that the whole wide world brings forth no better, whether you will impress them for valour to adventure, or knowledge to perform any action; painfulness to undergo, or patience to endure, any extremity, adversity, or want whatsoever: all which in one I may boldly aver, and yet not be taxed for over- valuing of them or their worth; and I hope I stand clear and free from the imputation cast upon their predeces- sors by JEgesippus, who said, long since, "the western Saxons are a most valorous kind of men, apt and ready for all venturous actions, especially piracies, wherein they excel all men." The like aspersion is laid on them by Isodorus, — "a people, (saith he) most stout, valiant, and hardy; and far outstripping others in piracies." These authors, though I cannot deny them to be of good estimation and worthy credit, yet not in all things ; for they might speak this perchance upon a rumour or uncertain information, or upon the allegation of some envious adversaries; for I am assured they cannot be charged therewith now, and therefore in this point you may be careful what you beheve; but in other matters do your pleasure. All these commodities, fruitfulness, and plea- sures, formerly spoken and rehearsed, are of great and high esteem; of them therefore I will in a word conclude with Chserea in Terence, — " Jupiter Serva, obsecro, haec nobis bona:" O God preserve, augment, and bless Those goods which we do now possess : and join with those in words, though I hope with a far better and christian faith, that Menander bringeth in making this prayer, — Chap. XVI.] view of Devonshire. 69 " Deos omnes coelestes precamur Nobis ut salutem dent, Integram valetudinem, bona multa ; Et eorum quae jam parta sunt Lsotum et commodum usum." We pray the gods that safety they And perfect health would grant to us, "With all those many gifts that may Men happy make ; not only thus, But thus besides we farther crave A joyous use of what we have. CHAPTER XVI. The several Governments of this County distinguished: and first of the Ecclesiastical. This county is governed by positive laws in some points, and several commissions from the royal sovereignty in others : they may be reduced under five several heads, and each of them distinguished and clearly sepa- rated from other; the first, ecclesiastical; second, martial; third, civil and politic; fourth, of the admiralty; fifth, of the stannaries. Yet here I cannot but confess that I have been informed (and have seen some reason to persuade me to beUeve it,) that this county, together with Cornwall, Somerset, and Dorset, was sometime governed by a president, as Wales, and some parts in the north; but sm-ely the continuance was not long ; for I think the inhabitants had rather be at the cost to fetch judg- , ments and decrees from the pure spring head at Westminster, than to have them given at home: so the lawyers have a longer journey to travel, vet the profession holds good and in request, though they go far to work. K 70 VIEW OP DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK I. Of the ecclesiastical government under the lord bishop of Exon, and where he was first seated. The chiefest of the five is the ecclesiastical or spiritual government; the overseer whereof hath the title of lord bishop of Exon only ; albeit, that his see and authority extends to the three counties of Devon, Cornwall, and Exeter, and the islands of Scilly and Lundy. At the helm now stands the elegant and learned writer and peace-maker, the judicious and orthodox Dr. Joseph Hall: a haU indeed, richly furnished and fairly beautified with the most rich ornaments of zeal and learning, integrity and christian humility : in these only words I will briefly confine what might fill a volume in his deserved encomium; for his adversaries (if he hath any, and who is he but hath some?) cannot deny this I have said. These have been distinct dioceses, and have had two several bishops ; for I find registered that in anno 905, Formosus, then pope, wrote to Edward, son of Alphred, or Alured, then king, admonishing him to set a governor over the church of the West-Saxons, which had been long destitvite thereof; and that thereupon, by the advice of Plegmund, then archbishop of Canterbury, and other his council, Herstanus was consecrated bishop of Cornwall, and had his seat at St. Germans, for that the church and palace of St. Petrock's, in Bodmin, was ruinated by the Danes; and Worstanus, aUas Westanus, was installed bishop of Devonshire, and had his seat at Tawton near Barnstaple; which is yet well remembered by his lordship's residence there, and hath his name for addition, and is named to this day Bishop's-Tawton. To him suc- ceeded Putta; who being slain as he came from thence to Crediton to wait on the king, Eadulphus, brother to Alpsius, then duke of Devon, (so I find,) was there consecrated and installed; and thence denominated bishop of Crediton. But having waited on his lordship from St. Petrock's in Bodmin to St. Germans, and from thence to Tawton, and having seated him there in so sweet and rich a soil, and so pleasant and fair a palace, as at Crediton, I will humbly take my leave of him until some fit opportunity bring me thither again, to tender my best service unto him, to wait on him to the city of Exeter, where he must be settled in his only seat : for it is needless and m unnecessary to particularize the several degrees of ecclesiastical dignities and offices, being in every diocese alike. Chap. XVII.] view op Devonshire. 71 CHAPTER XVII. Of the Martial Government, with the Chief and other Commanders. The second and next government is of martial aft'airs, wherein the an- cient virtue of this county and the natives thereof have anciently and de- servedly gained this reputation; (as the light of reverend antiquity saith;) that they, with the Cornish and Wiltshire men, were entrusted with the subsidiary cohort, or hand of supply, in the greatest extremity. "An honour (saith the illustrator of Cornwall,) equal to the Roman Triarii, as the surest trust and sheet anchor of the battle." The command and chiefest direction of these affairs is committed to the right honourable Francis Earl of Bedford, by commission lord lieutenant of this county and the city and county of Exeter; who hath ample power and authority, at all time and times, to levy and call together all men, of what estate or degree soever they be, meet and apt for the wars, and them to arm, or cause to be armed and weaponed for the wars, and mustered; and so arrayed, trained, and mustered, to conduct and lead as well against the foreign enemies as rebels and traitors against their sovereign, his crown and dignity; and with such enemies and traitors to fight, resist, invade, re- press, and subdue, and put to execution of death, by all means and ways, and execute martial law at his discretion : to whom all justices, mayors, sheriflfs, and all other inferior officers are, with all their strength and power, to be attendant. And for that the said lord lieutenant cannot execute the same at all times as is required, he hath power, for his better aid and assistance, and for the better performing and execution of the serv^ice, to authorize, appoint, constitute, and assign certain worthy gentlemen of the county his deputies; which at this present are these * * * * [not recorded in the M.S.] These, for the easier, speedier, and better managing and directing of the martial affairs, have divided this county into three divisions or severed parts. 72 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [Book I. naming them the south, east, and north divisions; in every of which there are two regiments of trained soldiers, (the south hath the addition of a demi-regiment,) under selected and choice gentry of the country, who are their colonels and captains. Those of the south division are these, (June, 1 633,) — Sir Edw. Seimar, knt. bart., col. John Seymer. Edmund Tremain. John Bastard. Christopher Blackhall. John Connock. The 2nd regiment. 'John Bampfield, col. George Gary. Humph. Pruz. John Northcot. Hugh Clifford. Simon Worth. The other regiment being but of companies. Henry Champemon, col. John Crocker. Arthur Ashford. John Pollexfen. These are all mustered in the south division, besides the companies within the two towns of Plymouth and Dartmouth. In the eastern division. The 1st regiment. Francis Courtenay, col. Henry Ashford. Henry Walrond. Peter Carew. Sir Walter Leach. John Francis. The 2nd regiment. Sir John Drake, knt., col. Sir John Pole, bart. Thomas Drake. Wilham Drake. Robert Duke. Wilham Frye. The north division two regiments. The 1st commanded by Sir Lewis Pollard, bart., col. Edmund Parker. Edward Pine. Robert DUlon. John Giffard. John Berry. The 2nd regiment commanded by John Acland, esq., col. John Arscot. Leonard Yeo. Arthur Arscot. Francis Weekes. Jonathan Prideaux. Chap. XVIII.] VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. 73 All these are well armed with pike and musket. There are also three cornets of horse, under the command of Colonel Sir Ferdinando Gorge. CHAPTER XVIII. Of the Civil or Politic Government : being the third. /-^.".^ «^/ '•N. ■N^N.C \/\ ^s/ >^ This is done chiefly by the judges of the assizes, who, twice every year, pass this circuit, called the western circuit, hearing and determining all causes within the power of their commission. In self-same nature, but in some lower degree, is the custos rotulorum, and the justices of the peace, who keep their quarter sessions to inquire and punish aU offences against the peace of our sovereign lord the king, and tranqviillity of his people. The justices now in commission, and resident in this county, to conclude this matter briefly, we will call over by the commission : and so vous avez : — Edward Earl of Bath. Francis Earl of Bedford. Edw. Viscount Chichester, Joseph (HaU) Bishop of Exon. Alexander St. John. Edw. Seimar, knt. & bart. Fran. Vincent, knt. & bart. Peter Prideaux, bart. George Chudleigh, bart. ,,Francis Drake, bart. y' Lewis Pollard, bart. John Pole, bart. Rich. Grenvile, knt. & bart. y /" Ferdinando Gorges. Robert Kelligrew. Wilham Strode. Thomas Prideaux. Thomas Drew. George Southcot. Edward Giles. Richard Edgcumbe. John Speccot. Francis Fulford. Shilston Calmady. Samuel RoUe. Francis Glanvill, Knights. 74 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [Rook I. ^Knights. Ralph Sidenham. Edmund Fowel. Rich. Reynel of Ogwell. John Chichester of Hall. James Bagg. Henry Rosewell. Simon Leach. Nicholas Martin. Wm. Peterson, D.D., Deanof Exon. Thomas Chfford, D. D. Ed. Cotton, Archdeacon of Totnes John Bamfield. John Ackland. Arthur Champemon Ehas Hele. Wilham Cary. Richard Waltham. John Northcot. William Bastard. And so there have appeared sixty- think,) boldly and justly with Job, — >Esqu rres. John Woode. Henry Walrond. Richard Re}Tiel. James Welsh. Thomas Risdon. John Davie. Walter Young. Henry Ashford. -^ Nicholas Frye. Nicholas Lutterel. ) Esquires. Richard Cabell. Bartholomew Berry, Humfry Berry. Edmund Arscot. Thomas Ford. Alexander Maynard. Sampson Hele. John Upton. Humphry Pruz. J four: all which may say (I hope and " If ever I delay'd the poor's desire, Or let the widow's longing hope to tire, If ever I against the impotent Poor, fatherless, or friendless innocent, ( For fear or favour of a friend or foe, For gain or grudge that I did ever owe,) Have lift mine hand, or him in right withstood. Or when I might, I have not done him good; If I on gold have fix'd my hope or heart. Or to the wedge have said, my trust thou art, If I have joy'd for being grown so rich. Or for my hands have gotten me so much, Then let my arm off from my shoulder fall And from the bone be groun'd in powder small." Now let us proceed briefly to the fourth. Chap. XIX. XX.] view of Devonshire. 75 CHAPTER XIX. Of the Admiralty and Government for Maritime and Sea Causes. The lord admiral's authority by commission in sea causes, for preserva- tion, maintenance, and supply of the navy, and for all causes questioned concerning controversies, piracies, and matters of that nature, are executed by power and authority of the civil law: which being the self- same in all sea-bordering counties, may be well passed with this small remembrance, and the rather for that the next will require a far larger discourse. CHAPTER XX. The Stannary Laws and Government which concern Tinners and Tin Causes. This last is severed from all the rest, and only peculiar to this county and Cornwall, appropriated to tinners, tin-works, and tin causes only, and appertaineth to the honour of the duchy of Cornwall, and is hereditary primo- genito Domini Regis, whereof he is born duke, by virtue of an especial act of Parhament, and the very day of his birth he is holden of fuU and perfect age, but is created Prince of Wales. His deputy, or chief officer, in Latin is named senescaUus; in English, warden of the stannaries, of stannum ; in EngUsh, tin : or high seneschal, or steward of the duchy : whose autho- rity is very large, being both chief justice and chancellor; giving sentence both for law and equity: from whom there is no appeal but to the duke himself, and from him to the sovereign. 76 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [ BoOK I. When sundry causes of deep consequence do concur together among them, the lord warden doth summon a Parhament, whereunto are elected and sent out of each of the four courts and precincts of the stannary twenty- four burgesses or jurats ; who enact statutes and ordinances, and constitute laws and orders concerning such occasions as are in question. For the keep- ing of which high court of Parhament there is a very ancient and fair palace, appointed only for this meeting, erected long time before any tin-works were wrought, and is continually repaired and maintained at the founder's charge, seated in an open fresh air, with a very large prospect on every side. If you will have the place and site rightly described and named, it is a high rock which we call Tor, and thence is our word Tower, in the forest of Dartmoor, named Crockern Tor, subjected to the furious assaults and vi- olence of all winds and weathers, blasts and storms, and tempests ; affronting and bearing up against all ; neither yielding to, nor shrinking from, any; as not fearing their fury, nor helhsh malice of undermining gunpowder moles ; near unto which there is neither house, refuge, nor shelter by divers miles ; the borough of Tavistock being nearest, and yet ten miles distant. All which laws and statutes thus there made, enacted, and pubUshed, and by the lord warden, ratified and confirmed, are in full force for all causes inter tinner et tinner, life and hmb excepted. One of these Parhaments was there holden the 24th September, anno 2 King Henry VIII., [1510] which, for that I think is not vulgarly known, and that some (if but for the name of Parliament,) will be desirous to know the manner thereof, I will show you how it is enrolled. — " Devon. Magna curia Domini Regis Ducatus sui Cornubiae, tenta apud Crockern- Torr in Comitatu Devonise, coram Thom^ Dennis, Armigero, locum tenente Henrici Merny, Mihtis, Custodis Stannarise Domini Regis in Comitatu Devonige, 24mo. die Mensis Septembris, anno Regni Regis Henrici octavi secundo." Where appeared for the four stannary divisions or courts, viz, Chagford, Ashburton, Tavistock, and Plimpton, for each of them twenty-four burges- ses, or jurats; who being elected according to former ancient customs and sworn, have full power, as the whole united body of tinners of Devon, to consent and assent. They do therefore enact, confirm, and ordain, and Chap. XX.] view of Devonshire. 77 by these presents establish that, as well all statutes now made, and all those statutes there heretofore made and ordained, other than such statutes as now in this court and in other courts heretofore there holden, are made frustrate, repealed, and of none effect, do from henceforth wholly remain in full force and strength. "At the humble petition of the Tinners of the county of Devon, be it enacted, ordained, and established in manner and form following." &c. These tinners are distinguished from foreigners (for so they term those that are no tinners,) by many sundry immunities and freedoms : as not to be mustered before the lord lieutenant or his deputies ; they are not to be impleaded for any tin cause but in their own courts and before the warden and his deputy, and by them to be commanded, trained, and mustered. And of them are four companies, or trained bands, according to their four courts, under the command of * * * * A longer discourse hereof cannot but seem tedious, and perchance hinder our proceedings in matters of another nature. If any therefore be desirous to know farther of their privileges, and of the antiquity of them, I will transcrilje for them the charter itself of 33 Edward I. to the Tinners of Cornwall, which hath been successively confirmed by all his successors.* — Rex Archiepiscopis, etc., salutem. Sciatis nos ad emendationem stan- nariarum nostrarum in comitatu Cornubie et ad tranquillitatem et utilitatem stannatorum nostrorum earundem, concessisse pro nobis et heredibus nostris. Quod omnes stannatores predicti operantes in stannariis illis que sunt dominica nostra dum operantur in eisdeni stannariis sint liberi et quieti de placitis nativorum et de omnibus placitis et querelis curiam nostram et he- redum nostrorum quoquo modo tangentibus, ita quod non respondcant coram aliquibus justiciariis vel ministris nostris sen heredum nostrorum de ahquo placito seu querela infra predictas stannarias emergente nisi coram custode nostro stannariarum nostrarum predictarum qui pro tempore fuerit, exceptis placitis terre, et vite, et membrorum ; nee recedant ab operationibus suis per summonicionem alicujus ministrorum nostrorum seu heredum nostrorum nisi per summonicionem dicti custodis nostri ; * As the charter is incorrectly reported by the Author, we prefer printing it from that in the valuable collection of Records and Documents relating to the Stannaries in the case of Vice against Thomas, lately published by Edward Smirke, Esq., m.a. Barrister at Law. L G. ,— P. J. 78 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK I. Et quod quieti sint de omnibus talliagiis, theoloniis, stallagiis, auxiliis, et aliis custumis quibuscunque in villis, portubus, feriis, et mercatis infra comi- tatum predictum de bonis suis propriis. Concessimus etiam eisdem stannatoribus quod fodere possint stannum et turbas ad stannum fundendum ubique in terris moris et vastis, nostris et aliorum quorumcunque in comitatu predicto, et aquas et cursus aquarum ad operationes Stannariarum predictarum divertere ubi et quociens opus fuerit, et emere buscam ad funturam stanni, sicut antiquitus fieri consuevit, sine impedimento nostri vel heredum nostrorum, episcoporum, abbatum, pri- orum, comitum, baronum seu aliorum quorumcunque. Et quod custos noster predictus vel ejus locum tenens teneat omnia pla- cita inter stannatores predictos emergentia, et etiam inter ipsos et alios forinsecos de omnibus transgressionibus querelis et contractibus factis in locis in quibus operantur infra Stannarias predictas similiter emergentia; et quod idem custos habeat plenam potestatem ad stannarios predictos et alios forinsecos in hujusmodi placitis justiciandos et partibus justiciam faciendam prout justum et hactenus in Stannariis illis fuerit usitatum. Et si qui stannariorum predictorum in aliquo deliquerint per quod incar- cerari debeant, per custodem predictum arrestentur et in prisona nostra de Lostwythiel et non alibi custodiantur et detineantur quousque secundum legem et consuetudinem regni nostri deliberentur. Et si aliqui stannatorum predictorum super aliquo facto infra comitatum predictum, non tangente Stannarias predictas, se posuerint in inquisicionem patrie, una medietas juratorum inquisicionis hujusmodi sit de stannatoribus predictis, et alia medietas de forinsecis; et de facto totaliter tangente Stan- narias predictas fiant inquisitiones sicut hactenus fieri consueverunt. Et si quis eorundem stannatorum fugitivus fuerit vel utlagatus vel ahquod delictum fecerit pro quo catalla sua amittere debeat, catalla ilia per custodem predictum et coronatorem nostrum comitatus predicti apprecientur et per ipsos proximis villatis liberentur ad respondendum inde nobis et heredibus nostris coram justiciariis itinerantibus in comitatu predicto. Volumus insuper et firmiter precipimus quod totum stannum tam album quam nigrum, ubicunque inventum et operatum fuerit in comitatu predicto, ponderetm- apud Lostwythiel, Bodmynyan, Liskiriet, Treueru vel Helleston, per pondera nostra ad hoc ordinata et signata, sub forisfactura tocius stanni Chap. XXI.] view of devoxshire. 79 predicti ; et quod totum illud stannum coignietur in eisdem villis singulis annis coram custode predicto ante diem Sancti Michaelis in Septembre sub forisfactura predicta. Et concessimus pro nobis et heredibus nostris quod omnes stannatoi-es nostri predicti totum stannum suum sic ponderatum licite vendere possint cuicunque voluerint in villis predictis faciendo inde nobis et heredibus nos- tris coignagium et alias consuetudines debitas et usitatas, nisi nos vel heredes nostri stannum illud emere voluerimus. Quare volumus et firmiter precipimus pro nobis et heredibus nostris quod stannatores nostri predicti habeant omnes libertates, liberas consuetudines, et quietancias suprascriptas, et quod eis sine occasione vel impedimento nostri vel heredum nostrorum, justiciariorum, escaetorum, vicecomitum, aut aliorum ballivoram seu ministrorum nostrorum quorumcunque rationabiliter gaudeant et utantur in forma predicta. Hiis testibus, etc. Dat. per manum nostram apud Westm. 10 April, a. d. 1305.* CHAPTER XXI. The description of the Forest of Dartmoor where Tin is Mined. Now we have spoken sufficiently concerning tinners, their laws, privileges, and government; let us speak somewhat of the places whence tin is mined. The chiefest place where tin is found is in the forest of Dartmoor and the purlieus thereof, and places near adjoining thereunto. This forest swelleth * The Stannaries and earldom of Cornwall were, at this time, in the crown in conse- quence of the death of Earl Edmund in 1300 without any other heir than his cousin, the king. They had belonged to Earl Richard or his son Edmund, from 10th August, 1231, and perhaps from an earlier period. The above charter was repeatedly confirmed by the crown in succeeding reigns down to that of Elizabeth. Rot. Pat. 2 Eliz. part. I. The charter of confirmation, 5 Ed. 4, contains an additional grant of turbary and pasture on Dartmoor. / 80 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK I. up with many mountains, hills, and tors of large vastness, especially the moorland, which is veiy spacious. It is called moor, not only because it is mountainous, but withall less fruitful and full of bogs, (which kind of soil we call, in our common speech, moors,) and in the winter season hard and comfortless, bare and cold: keeping his white winter livery lying upon it long time, if not washed away with rain. Yet hath bountiful and prudent nature, for such defects, suppUed it with another necessary commodity, and made amends for the want of com and fruitful herbage in the moor, fur- nishing it with metals. — And as each one is prais'd for her peculiar things. So only she is rich in mountains, meers, and springs, And holds herself as great in her superfluous waste, As others in their towns and fruitful tillage grac'd. And chiefly for her mines. We have foraierly said that Devonshire was difforested by King John, Exmoor and Dartmoor excepted. The first intent thereof was (as I find,) begun by Henry I., third son to the Conqueror, and seconded by King John, but perfected by Henry III., yet without hmitation or bounding the said mooiy wastes, until authority was granted by the last mentioned King- to Richard Earl of Cornwall, his brother, to take survey thereof, and to limit and bound it; who, accompanied with twelve esquires and gentlemen of the country adjoining, did perambulate the said forest, and as they passed, did name certain rocks, rivers, rUls, tors, &c. as bonds and meets thereof, as appeareth by the following documents : — / Commission to the Sheriff of Devon to cause a Perambulation TO BE MADE OF THE FOREST OF DaRTMORE.* Inter Recorda Curiae Cancellarise in Turri London asservata, sciUcet Rot. Claus; de anno Regni Regis Henrici tertii vicesimo quarto, [1240] m. ii. sic continetur. * For the satisfaction of the Reader, we supply a copy from the Tower of the original Commission for the Perambulation of the Forest of Dartmore, bearing date 13th June, 1240, and which was unknown to Mr, Westcote. The Return to this Writ is not to be found; but as Mr. Westcote's copy of the Perambulation in that year is very imperfect, Chap. XXI.] view of Devonshire. 81 De Perambulacione Facienda. Rex Vicecomiti Devonie saliitem: Sciatis quod dilectus frater noster Ricardus, Comes Pictavie et Cornubie, pro parte sua, et Henricus de Mereton, Hamelinus de Eudon, Robertus de Halyim, et Willielmus Ic Pruz, pro parte militum et liberorum tenencium ha- bencium terras et feoda juxta Forestam ejusdem Comitatus de Dertemore, posuerunt se coram nobis in Perambulationem inter terras eorum et pre- dictam Forestam ejusdem Comitatus faciendam ; et ideo tibi precipimus quod si alii de Comitatu tuo habentes terras juxta Forestam predictam cognoverint coram te et coram custodibus Placitorum Corone nostre, quod predicti quatuor milites de consensu aliorum omnium posuerint se in Per- ambulationem illam pro omnibus aliis, tunc assumptis tecum duodecim legalibus militibus de Comitatu tuo in propria persona tua accedas ad Forestam et terras predictas, et per eorum sacramenta fieri faciatis Per- ambulationem inter predictam Forestam et terras predictas. Ita quod Perambulatio iUa fiat per certas metas et divisas; et scire nobis facias ubi- cunque fuerimus distincte et aperte sub sigillo tuo et per quatuor milites ex illis qui Perantibiilationi illi interfuerrnt, per quas metas et divisas Per- ambulatio facta fuerit, et habeas ibi nomina militum et hoc Breve. Teste Rege, apud Westmonasterium, decimo tertio die Junii. [1240.] Perambulatio Foreste de Dertimore, Inter Recorda in Thesaurario Curiae receptee Scaccarii asservata, videlicet in libro indorsato "Feoda in Capita," p. 100 continetur ut sequitur. Hec est Perambulatio facta per commune consilium Ricardi, Comitis Cornubie et Pictavie in Comitatu Devonie, per preceptum Domini Regis Henrici, filii Johannis, anno coronacionis dicti Henrici vicesimo quarto, in vigilia Sancti Jacobi ApostoU, per sacramentum mUitum subscriptorum, we have endeavoured to oflfer one far more correct, by collating it with the copy in the Harleian Collection, No. 5827, Ibl. 58, b.; — with a manuscript copy of Serjeant Maynard's, at Lincoln's luu ; — and also witli a copy in a book in the Treasury of the Court of Receipts, at the Chapter House, Westminster, indorsed "Feoda in Capite," p. 100. To these we add a copy of the Perambulation made in 1608, which is now acted upon in the Office of the Duchy of Cornwall —G. 0.,— P, J. 82 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK I. scilicet, Willielmi de la Bruere, Guidonis de Brittevill, Willielmi de Wid- worthi, Hugonis de Bolley, Ricardi Gifford, Odonis de Feverbyn. Henrici filii Henrici, Willielmi Trenchard, Philippi Perer, Nicholai de Heaunton, Willielmi de Morelegh, et Dm-ant Filii Botour, qui incipiunt Perambulatio- nem ad Hoga de Cossdonne, et inde linealiter* usque ad parvam Hoga que vocatur parva Houndtoire, et inde usque ad Theurleston, et inde linealiter usque ad Wotesbrokesfote que cadit in Tenge, et inde linealiter usque ad Hengston, et inde linealiter usque ad Yesceton, et inde linealiter usque ad mediam Turbariam de Alberesheved et sic in longum Walebroke, et inde linealiter usque ad Fumum Regis, et inde linealiter usque ad Walebroke- sheved, et sic in longum Walebroke usque cadit in Derta, et sic per Dertam usque per aliam Dertam ascendendo usque ad Okebrokfote, et sic ascendendo Okebrok usque ad la Di-ylake, et ita ascendendo usque ad la Drydellford, et inde linealiter usque ad Cattishill, et inde linealiter usque ad Caput de Westere Walebroke et sic per Westere Walebroke usque cadit in Avona, et inde linealiter usque ad Ester Wightburgh, et inde linealiter ubi Redelake cadit in Erme, et inde ascendendo usque ad Grymesgrove, et inde linealiter usque ad Elesburgh, et inde linealiter usque ad Crucem Syward, et inde usque ad Estfothere et sic ad aliam Estfothere, et inde per mediam Mistmore usque ad Mueburgh, et inde usque ad Lidlingesfote, et inde usque ad Ra- kernebrokesfote et sic ad caput ejusdem aque et inde usque ad Westsoll, et inde linealiter usque ad Ernestorre, et inde linealiter usque ad vadum prox- imum in orientali parte Capelle Sancti Michaelis de Halgestok, et inde linealiter usque ad predictam Hoga de Cossdonne in orientali parte. Perambulation of Dartmoor. 6 James L, 1608. On the sixteenth day of August, in the sixth year of King James the First, a Court of Survey was held at Okehampton, before Sir William * It will be observed that where the word "linealiter" is used in the Perambulation, the boundary is represented by a straight line, although a different construction may possibly be put upon the word. Nor should it be overlooked that, according to the Forest Laws, the object which forms the boundary (if it be a road, river, &c., and not a house or mill,) is wholly included within the franchise of the Forest. See 4. Coke's Institute, p. 318.— G. O.,— P. J. Chap. XXL] view ok Devonshire. 83 Strode, knight; Richard Connock, esquire; Roljert Moore, esquire; and Robert Paddon, gentleman; Auditors of the duchy of Cornwall, and Com- missioners appointed for that purpose : when the Jury, Edward Skirnett, Walter Hole, Roger Cole, Henry Surges, Richard Edmond, Gregory Grey, John Bickford, Hugh Elford, John Massey, Roger Drake, Walter LilUcrap, John Chubb, Stephen Taverner, Andrew Heywood, Roger Wicket, Robert Hannaford, John Wills, John Hele, Walter Tuckerman, William Mudge, William Ilbert, Thomas Sturges, and Elias Harris, inter alia, found the bounds of the Forest of Dartmoor to be as undenieath, viz.: — Beginning at a high hill lying in the north quarter of the Forest, called at this day Cosdon, alias Cosson, and in the old records Hoga de CostdowTi; and from thence lineally eastward, by estimation one mile or more, unto Little Houndetorr, which in the said record is called Hoga de pan'a Houndetorr; and from thence Uneally to a place named in the same record Thurleston, now, as we suppose, called Water Donter, being about three-quarters of a mile from Houndetorr aforesaid, and ft-om thence near a mile to Wates Brook head, (foot, as corrected in the margin,) which falleth into Teigne, and which lake they now think to be the same which is now called Hood Lake, at which place they account the north quarter ends. And from thence near one mile to Hengeston, aUas, Heighstone, in the east quarter, lying near Fernworthy Hedges; and from thence lineally near one mile to Yelston, alias, Gesstone, now commonly called Hethstone; and from thence lineally through a fenny place now called Turshill, but named in the records per mediam Turbariam de Alberesheved, to a place called King's Oven, and in the said records named Furnum Regis ; and from thence to Wallbrook head, and so along by Wallbrook until it fall into the East Dart, and so down- wards by the said East Dart to another Dart called West Dart; and from thence ascending by the said West Dart to Wobrook foot, where the east (j[uarter endeth. And from thence lineally ascending to Drye Lake, alias. Dry work; and from thence ascending by Dry Lake to Creyselford, or Dry- delford; and from thence to Knattleborough, which thcv take to be the same which, in the old records, is called Gnattishill ; and from thence as- cending lineally to Wester Wellbrook head, and so by the same Wester Wellbrook until it falleth into Owen, or Avon ; and from thence lineally to East Whitaborough ; and from thence lineally to Red Lake foot, where it / 84 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK I, falleth into Erme; and from thence lineally ascending unto Erme head, which they take to be the place in the same record named Grimes Grove; and from thence to Plym head, where the south quarter endeth. And from thence lineally to Ellisborough ; and from thence hneally to Sewards Cross; and from thence lineally to Little Hisworthy; and so from thence to ano- ther Hisworthy; and so from thence through the midst of Mistermoor to a rock called Mister Pan; and from thence lineally to Due Lake head, which they think to be the next bound, and which is called in the said records Mewborough ; and from thence lineally northwards to a place called Luntesborough, which they think to be the same that is called in the re- cords Lullingsett; and from thence lineally to the Wester Red Lake, between which two bounds the west quarter endeth. And from thence northward to Rattlebrook foot, and so from thence to the head of the same Rattlebrook; and from thence lineally unto Steynchatorr; and from thence lineally unto Langford, alias, Sandiford; and so from thence lineally to the Ford which lieth in the east side of Saint Michael's Chapel of Holstock ; and so from thence lineally to the said hill called Cossdon, alias, Cosston, where they began. CHAPTER XXIL Of certain Tenants of the Forest called Fenfield-men. There are some special tenants inhabiting within the limits of the forest, or near it, which by the tenui-e are more free than others, in the nature of free-tenants, or freeholders, doing suit and paying the king's silver, and are named fenfield-men, or venfield-men ; whence the name should be derived Chap. XXII.] view of Devonshire. 85 either of a fenny country, as Mr. Camden speaks of some so called in the Isle of Ely taking name according to the soil they inhabit, more rude, uncivil, and envious than others; applying themselves only to fishing, fowling, and grazing, I cannot aver: but these have special and larger preroga- tives than others, for they are not to be attached by any officer, but for default and negligence. They pay yearly four-pence. He may keep as many beasts freely on the forest as he can w^inter on his own land. He shall also take upon the forest all that may do him good, except green-oak and venison, now a needless exception. If he summer more on the forest than he can winter on his own tenement, he shall pay as a stranger. The king hath the royalty of the whole: wherein if any die by misfor- tune, or be slain in the moor or waste, the coroner of Lidford shall crown him: for the forest is not in any tithing, and the whole tithes* belong to Lidford. The tenants claim to fish in aU the rivers of the moor, and to dig turf anywhere therein. I will conclude all with the record of an intruder found guilty. Thomas Oliver, abbot of Buckland, did, upon the 4th day of October, 18th King Edward IV., 1478, intrude and make claim upon the lord the prince's land in Dartmoor, within the bounds and marks of the said forest, and thereof by a jury at Lidford was found culpable and faulty for his such false claim and intrusion; and that all the lands within the precincts, marks, and bonds of Dartmoor are of the ancient demesnes of the said prince, and is called the Fenfield and Common of Devonshire; and that all waives, strays, escheats, and presentments of assaults and bloodshed, plaints, writs of right, according to the custom of the manor of Lidford, and assizes of land, are appropriate to the court of Lidford, As doth ap- pear by ancient record remaining in the castle of Lidford. * King Henry III. on the 12th July, 1237, granted to the Incumbent of St. Petrock's Church at Lidford, towards his better support, " Decimam Herbagii de Dertemore." — See Prynne's Records, vol. iii. page 94. On the 20th August, 1260, Walter Bronescombe, Bishop of Exeter, in consideration of the great distance of Balbeneye and Pushyll, two villages on Dartmoor, in the parish of Lidford, licensed their inhabitants to resort to the parish church of Widdecombe in the moor, paying their dues and the tithe of lambs to the parson of Widdecombe ; but as a mark of subjection, each landholder of the said villages was to assist at the church at Lid- ford once in the year, viz, on the Feast of St. Petrock, and to pay all other tithes and ob- ventions, great and small, to this their mother church. — Bronescombe's Register, fol. 16. b. M G. O ,-P. J. 86 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [Book I. I may doubt to be arrested if I stay you any longer here with a tin-war- rant for imprisoning you so long here at Lidford. Some will say it will bear an action; and doubtless it would, if I should lead you to see the bounds of the fenfield-men in such a fenny, rugged circuit ; I had therefore plotted it out. A Diagram of Dartmoor Forest. And here were a fit place to conclude with Dartmoor and all stannaiy busi- ness ; but a matter worth note is come to my remembrance, that the large charter and privileges, notwithstanding attempts have been made sundry times to weaken and infringe the same; as in the time of Queen Elizabeth, when the deputy lieutenants would have mustered, trained, and impressed tinners and tenants of the duchy, contrary to their charters and customs; whereof her highness being advertised, did, by her letters, command the contrary : the tenor whereof is thus : — Chap. XXII.] view of Devonshire. 87 / " Elisabeth. / "Trusty and well-beloved, we greet you well. Whereas among other royalties and jurisdictions granted heretofore by our noble progenitors to the Prince of Wales and Duke of Cornwall, that the tinners and duchy tenants of Cornwall and Devon were committed to his government, and because the success of their labour in seeking for tin was very uncertain, divers privileges, liberties, and immunities (for their better encouragement) were granted unto them ; amongst which, the chiefest were that they should not be mustered, taxed, charged, or rated with any imposition, charge, or ser- vice, but only by their warden or chief steward of the duchy for the time being, or by his authority, by the direction of us, or our privy council; neither be convented, sued, or compelled to answer for any cause (pleas for life, land, or mayme excepted,) before any judge, officer, or magistrate, save of their said warden, sheriff, or steward of the said duchy of Cornwall, or his officers. And for want of justice to be done by the said officer, by way of appeal to the said warden or chief steward ; and from him, if they had wrong, to our privy council ; and from them, to our royal person ; as by their charter doth appear. Which course having always heretofore been inviolably kept amongst them, hath now of late, as we have been credibly informed, by some that have intermeddled with the government of the tin- ners, been infringed, and by foreign authority have charged and rated them for divers payments without consent of their w^arden; and have taken upon them the correction of abuses which they suppose have been committed by the tinners and officers of the stannary; and have bound some baihiFs and officers of the said stannaries to their good behaviour, and compelled them to appear and answer at their quarter sessions for executing stannary pro- cess, before any complaint made to our warden, our council, or to us, con- trary to the hberties and privileges granted to them, and the manifest derogation of the authority granted and reserved to the said warden, our council, and our self. For reformation whereof our will and pleasure is that the tinners and duchy tenants of Cornwall and Devon shall hereafter be governed by their warden and his officers according to their charter and the ancient customs and privileges of the stannaries as heretofore hath been used and accustomed ; and therefore we will and command, that no sheriff, commissioner, or other officer whatsoever do from henceforth muster, rate. 88 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [ BoOK I. or charge any of our tinners or duchy tenants ; or otherwise offer any grief, molestation, or disturbance to the jurisdiction of the duchy or stannaries ; neither do convent, precept, or compel any bailiff or officer of the stannaries, or any of the tinners, or duchy tenants to answer for any abuses arising or growuig within the said stannaries, determinable there. But that the go- vernment, examination, judgment, and correction of all and singular such causes and matters be permitted and suffered to have their passage before the officers of the stannaries and duchv bv appeal to the warden, and from him to our pri\'y- council, and from them to our royal person, as heretofore hath been used and accustomed. Which our pleasure and express com- mandment we will and require you to signify to all our officers, ministers, and loving subjects in Devon and Cornwall, at the next general assizes, to be holden in those counties, requiring them effectually to observe and fulfil the same, according as they tender our pleasure, and will answer the con- traiy at their perils. And yet, nevertheless, our meaning is not, but that during the time there shall be any lieutenant-general of the said counties, or either of them, the authority of the said Heutenant shall be of force, and continue, for the mustering and levying of any forces to withstand any in- vasion or rebellion, so as the said Heutenant do join with our warden of our stannaries on the execution of such needful services. To which purpose we will and command them both to join and agree together to the furtherance of our said service. Given under our signet at Nonsuch, the 27th day of June, in the 31st year of our reign, 1589. " To our trusty and well-beloved the justices of assizes in the counties of Devon and Cornwall." CHAPTER XXIII. Of the Forest of Exmoor. Without danger, at length, though not void of tedious and wearisome travel; are we freed out of the liberty of tin- warrants; and a simple and unskilful pilot though I be, (so you find, and so I frankly confess myself, and vi'ould never have so boldlv undertaken to be vour truide had not the Chap. XXIII.] view of Devonshire. 89 more sufficient slid back or fainted,) you are disembogued of the large gulf of land, the forest of Dartmoor ; and under my conduct safely and securely escaped the peril of deep tin-works, steep tors, high mountains, low valleys, bogs, plains, being neither in any hazard or fear of danger, without wetting your foot in the many meers, or fouling your shoes in the many mires. Now I suppose you hope and expect more delightsome objects, pleasant ways, and comfortable travel, (after these uneven, rocky, stumbling, tiring, melancholy paths,) but I cannot promise you presently : I see a spacious, coarse, barren, and wild object, yielding httle comfort by his rough, cold, and rigorous complexion. I doubt you will say with the poet — " Incidit in Scyllam cupiens vitare Charibdim." In shunning of Charibdes' paws He falleth into Scylla's jaws. Have a little patience, your stay shall not be long; I will shorten the way by directing you by a straight hne without any turning or needless amba- ges; you shall not have a bough of a tree to strike off your hat, or drop in your neck: it is the other forest I have formerly told you of, part of which lies in this county, and is called Exmoor Forest. The greatest part belongeth to Somersetsliire, and yieldeth no metal as yet found, only good pastures and summering, for sheep and cattle, in quantity and quality. We should therefore search it no farther, were I not to seek and show you cer- tain stones, supposed (as I am informed,) by no simple evidence, to be there erected, some in triangle wise, others in circle, as trophies of victories gotten of or by the Romans, Saxons, or Danes; on which also are engraven certain Danish or Saxon characters. Thought of some to be there erected and fixed in memory of the great victory at the overthrow and slaughter of Hubba, the Dane; who, with Hungar, his associate, having harried over all the country, from Eglisdon (now St. Edmondsbury,) to this country, was here utterly vanquished, and with his whole army slain, anno 879, and the banner (wherein was curiously wrought, by the fingers of the daughters of Kmg Loth-brook, (in English, Leather-breech,) a raven, which they called Rephan, whereon they reposed no small confidence for good success, hav- ing been so oftentimes fortunately and with so happy success displayed,) taken, and the place since that time called Hubbleston. But for that place we may perchance find it hereafter near the mouth of Torridge. 90 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK I. Other there be that affirm them rather to be set as guides and directions, the better to conduct strangers in theu- way over those wastes. But let us forbear to inquire farther of the cause, and find the stones, which I cannot as yet, neither can they which I have purposely employed in quest of them, learn of any such, either in the north moor between Hore-oak-ridge and Snabhill; nor southward from Exaborough to Exridge; or in the middle moor westward, between the long chain to Rexable and Settacombe; or in the south from Druslade to Vermy-ball; neither from Wester Emmot to Lydden-moor; and all the other noted hills and valleys (which we term coombes,) therein. To reckon up all I doubt would be over-wearisome unto you, as the journey unto myself; for I was vexed with a jealous care to a serious and particular inquisition of what occurs in reading taken up of the writers (as the subject of our corantoes,*) upon the credit of the reporters. For I find only near Porlock Commons a stone, not pitched but lying, which they call the long stone; but that may breed another question, why it should be so named, being not five feet in length and much less in cras- situde. Also in the west from Woodborough to Rodely-head, which we call Collacumb Commons, is a plain stone erected, in height near six feet, in thickness, two; yet without any antique or other engravings. But some- what nearer to our purpose do I find in the parish of East Down, in the farm of Northcot the seat sometime of a generous family of the same deno- mination, John Northcot, who was sheriff of this county in the 29th year of Edward III. 1355 ; and though it be now out of the name, we shall find one of his name and of his posterity, his equal, in the 2nd year of our now So- vereign Lord King Charles I. 1626. In a large spacious field enclosed, by the name of Mattocks, or Maddocks Down, near five miles from the forest, certain great stones are erected in this manner: — ^first, there stand two great stones in nature or fashion (yet not curiously cut,) of pyramids, dis- tant the one from the other 147 feet; the greatest above the ground nine feet and a half, every square bearing four feet; the height of the other stone is five feet and a half, but in ever).- square near equals the other, being somewhat above three feet. These two stones, pyramids and pillars, stand in direct line one opposite to the other, sixty-six feet; on the side of each of these is laid a ridge, a row, or bank of three-and-twenty large * Coranto, (Italian Corranta,) a French running dance; also a new news-book. Blount's Dictionary.— G. O.,— P. J. Chap. XXIII.] view of Devonshire. 91 (yet not equalling by half the other) stones, stretching out in length even with the other two, in straight and equal line, making a reciprocal figure, as having the sides equally proportioned, but double as long in length than square and more, (which, as I am told, is called a parallelogram.) But on none of these stones are there any characters to be seen, neither are they to be engraven they are so hard and rough. That these stones should naturally grow here it cannot be thought by any spectator; neither can I as yet satisfy myself with any reason or occa- sion (by reading or tradition,) why they should be thus erected, but for some victory here gotten, and the monument of the interment of some fa- mous person of eminent place or worth. But to conjecture by the name of Maddock or Mattock I know not how to allude to any authentical history or person: for first to think upon Madock who, anno 23rd Edward 1., 1294, raised an uproar and rebellion in Wales, from whom, in time, the king won the Isle of Anglesea, and after anno 25 of the said king was taken, drawn, and hanged ; his rebellion being in Wales and his death in London ; it holds with no congruity. To fetch it as far as Madock, the fourth son of Owen Grisneth, Prince of Wales, who, seeing his three elder brethren strive and violently to contend for the government of the country, or equal partition of their shares therein, could not endure it, and therefore rigged a fleet of ships and adventured the seas to seek some waste or desert place where he might inhabit quietly; who is supposed, by great probability, to be the first discoverer of the West Indies, and inhabiter thereof; imposing British names to divers things, which continue to this age. (440 years since, for he lived anno 1 1 70.) Of him Merideth, the son of Rhesi, (als ap Rhese,) who lived anno 1477, hath this written, — " Madoc wif mw y die wed, Jawn genan Owen Gwyneth, Ni fiinnum dir fy enridd oedd Ni da movvr ondy moroedd." It is Englished thus, — Madoc, I am the son of Owen Giiynedd, With stature large, and comely grace adorned : ^" VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK I. No lands at home, or store of wealth me please, My mind was whole to search the ocean seas. Thus Englished in Mr. Herbert's travels, — " Madoc ap Owen was I call'd, Strong, tall, and comely ; not enthrall'd With home-bred pleasure, but for fame Through land and sea I sought the same." This man, employing himself in search of strange and uninhabited coun- tries, I cannot, with any likeHhood, place him here, but wiU leave it to him that hath dived deeper in the British tongue than myself ; and so will take our leave of Exmoor; only vrith this note, that in the reign of Henry IV. Gorges had the whole command of the forest. I have heretofore somewhere told you that the lord lieutenant, with his deputies, have, for the better and easier managing of the martial affairs and other pohtic causes, divided this province into three parts, which they call divisions, the south, north, and east. To guide you through every of these in several, and to separate the one from the other, or to follow the alpha- betical order of some other will be over troublesome. If you have any occasion to survey the map, and cannot be without danger of double deal- ing, by taking view of one place twice or thrice, and so redupHcate our way, I therefore intend to make use of the next river of name we shall find, and to pass with it from its spring until he emptieth himself in the sea to- gether with all other riUs and riverets that shall yield liim any subsidy : and in our journey we wiU view every borough and market town, each hundred and parish; and not neglect any ancient seat, either ecclesiastical or tempo- ral; or generous family that possesseth it now, or in former times, as near as we can : wherein, if I sometimes err, (as I fear me I shall,) let the apology the divine poet made for himself, be my defence also : for he saith, — " Most famous peoples' dark antiquity Is as a wood, where bold temerity Stumbles each step, and learned diligence Itself entangles ; and blind ignorance (Groping about in such Cimmerean nights) In pits, in ponds, in bogs, and quagmire lights." But now will we pass from the general, to come to that which is more particular. END OF THE FIRST BOOK. THE SECOND BOOK. CHAPTER I. An entrance into the East Division, together tvith the original and progress of the River Exe. Now having, according to my poor ability, showed you a description of this province of De-Avonshire, with the nature and quahty of the soil, to- gether with the natural" disposition of the natives, it ^^^ll be expected that there should yet be a more particular view taken of the hundreds, corpora- tions, market towns, castles, parishes with their churches; that nothing may be defective of what is spoken of in the survey or description of other counties : a work and matter worthy great pains, and would require good judgment, learning, and much time, and suitable for those acquainted with antiquaries; and a fit charge for one conversant with learned men, (of whom he may be resolved in his doubts,) to make it both profitable and pleasurable. But seeing nature, education, and conveniency have made me defective in all these, you are only to accept a bare relation, broken and independent fragments, that will give small light and yield less delight : for to proceed rightly were to write many historical discourses; which to others, again, may seem tedious and unnecessary, because elsewhere to be read. But since you have vouchsafed to travel thus far, and now in the midst of a large unknown forest, I may not, without the incuiring of a deep aspersion, leave you here; but by my best endeavour guide you into a better harbour and a place of more shelter. Be now therefore pleased, as you now stand upon Great Vennicomb top, (that we leave nothing unseen worthy note,) to cast your eye westward and N 94 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK II. you may see the first spring of the river Exe, which welleth forth in a valley between Pinckerry and Woodborough, which runneth far to make itself famous bv giving denomination to a more famous city, Exeter: as Alexander Neckam writeth: — " Exoniae fama ccleberiimus Iscia nomea Praebuit." Iscia, now Exe, a famous river. To Exeter did his name deliver. , But whence itself should take first denomination are divers opinions. Some will derive it of Iskaw, which in the Briton-speech signifieth elder trees: others from Hesk, by which name they called such reeds as grow on moors and rivers; wherewith the northern nations covered their houses, and fasten- ed together the joints of their ships. But to these conjectures, in regard there are no such store of elder trees, not any at all, at this time, in the forest, nor any other strange reeds, ( for I am assured they intend not juncus aquaticus, common every whei'e, and unfit for those forementioned purposes; but rather spartum, or spartum herba, which are strangers to this country, and known only to herbalists,) the more solid judgments are not hastily to yield credit. Some interpret Iske, a swallow; and so it might take name from the swift cuiTent, or the multitude of birds of that kind flocking in the summer season about it. But to him that shall derive it from Eske,* son to Hingest the Saxon, who first, by matching his daughter, Rowena, with King Vorti- gem, got footing in Kent, and laid the foundation of those future fortunes that the Saxons got in this kingdom, I think there needs no reply; for this river had this nomination divers hundreds of years before; for he came not hither before the year 445 : yet I cannot deny that the Kentishmen were long time after called Erskins, from him. And it were not fr-om the purpose to be resolved of another doubt which is or may be made, whether the river took name of the forest, (as some suppose,) or the forest of the river, as I with more probability conceive: for the ancients and first discoverers, after the imposition of name to the land or promontory, do the like next to the rivers into whose mouth they are arrived, before they search so far into the land as to find the original of * Esk i.s an original Celtic word for a river. — Dr. I.yttelton. Chap. I.] view of Devonshire, 95 of rivers; as the discoverers both in the West and East Indies, and other places, lately found out. But leaving the name, let us for your more ease, and the sooner to be quit of this barren soil, cold air, uneven ways, and untrodden paths, swim with the stream the better to hasten our speed ; so we are sure not to devi- ate, though we walk the farther way about, yet it may prove the nearest way home. In his small beginning he keeps Somersetshire; and passmg by Exford, a place where he is fordable, he leaveth his name; and at Exton he doth the same after his passage by Winsford; and there receives a small nursing from Carhampton and Cutcumbe : he hath further augmentation from a rill that ariseth beyond Bampton-Regis ; then, grown somewhat in strength, hasteth to Dulverton to meet his fair sister Barle ; hoping, with her rich portion, to better and enlarge his state. They were, at their first springs, congenuited, being sprung not 500 paces distant one from the other. Barle yields nothing to Exe in quantity, and seems as if she would strive for superiority, as having the first bridge of stone, as otherwise unpassable, and that in the midst of the forest; near which is a large deep pool which they name Symon's Bath, as a place where one Symon used to bathe him. self, and is said to have been ( but upon what small colour of warrant) ano- ther Robin Hood, and standing in outlawry, kept this forest: and in the moors of Somerset there is a burrow or fort called, by the inhabitants, Symon's Burrow, which he made his winter strength to retire unto. But for that I can tell no Robin Hood's tales of him, I will follow Barle, which washeth the feet of an ancient castle, (so they called it,) Cowcastle; which was there cast up for some (long since) forgotten occasion, whereof neither tradition nor writing maketh mention. There is also another such fort, south-west from Challacombe, called Solsbury Castle. We will not stay so long as to describe the site thereof, yielding no matter worthy the remem- brance ; only Barle by this time is come to Longacre, his second bridge, and draweth near to Withy-Pool and Hawkridge, to meet Dunsbrook, and both together to subscribe to Exe; which at Exbridge receiveth the whole of another pretty brook. And having by this time given name to three or four parishes, and had the augmentation of the hke number of riverets, it begins to look big; yet for all his greatness findeth nature a sparing niggard on either side, of the bountiful favours she elsewhere liberally bestoweth upon such her children, 96 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK II. as fattening meadows, enriching pastures; for as yet it gives the husband- man httle comfort, and therefore vows to leave Somersetshire, as hoping to find a more bountiful extent of nature's blessing in Devonshire ; and so ex- pecting no farther honour in his native soil, turns hither; and we, in hope of commodity by him, bid him welcome; and he presently gives the spring's livery, and clothes our meadows and pastures with a smiling verdure, ena- melled and embroidered with variety of flowers, both in savour and colour. But whUe there is no remarkable matter to be spoken of, let us, by some pleasant conference, abbreviate our way by putting a question of the progress of this river, which is found at Exmoor and lost at Exmouth : one distant from the other near fifty miles, in direct Kne; double, perchance in his meander-like ambages. How much, in so long a course, the spring may be elevated above the fall? for no stream can fleet without some declivity and falling of the ground. Pliny (as I remember,) requireth to the current of a river " unum cubitum in binos actus" — a cubit in two acts: an act, by Columella and others, is the dimension of 1 20 feet : but that allowance may seem somewhat with the largest, and will mount to a great height ; for the conveyors of waters in these days, which have performed admirable works both in Plymouth and London, content themselves (as I am inform- ed,) with one foot in 200 feet, which may perhaps serve their turn in pipes of lead and in a very slow and still current or motion ; but in the descent of this and such like rivers, whose motion is continually strong, in some places a swift current and here and there a stickle torrent, it cannot be less than trip- led, and so not far under Phny's allowance, and wiU be somewhat high in per- pendicular, half a mile at least. This was only moved to pass our way with more content : we have not time nor leisure to dispute the question any longer. Let the unsatisfied repair to Mr. Pond, Mr. Carpenter, or other skilled geo- metricians for a more sohd resolution: we must hasten to Bampton. CHAPTER II. Of the Hundred of Bampton, containing six Parishes. This town of Bampton, alias Baenton, was given by the Conqueror to Walter de Doway, and is situated in the north-east-most part of this shire. Chap. II.] view of Devonshire. 97 It giveth name to the hundred ; and under it are six other parishes. Walter Doway's son, Robert, took the name of Bampton; a common and usual thing in those days; by the heir general of which family it came to Panell, alias Paganel, Lord of Bridgewater; and his sole heir. Christian, brought large possessions to John de Bohun; and his only daughter a far larger to a worthy Devonshire knight. Sir John Cogan. In this Une it continued until Elisabeth, sister and co-heir of Sir John Cogan, brought it unto Sir Fulk Fitzwarren, knight. Lord of Wanting. By another heir of that honourable tribe it came to Sir Richard Hankford, knight; and by one of the two co-heirs of that family it is now possessed, by the right honourable Edward Earl of Bath, of whose predecessors in that honour we shall make a larger remembrance at Tawstock. Here Marianus and Florentius report that anno domini 620 there was a great conflict between Cynegils, first christian king of the West Saxons and the Britons, where the king put 20,000 to the sword: the original nameth a far larger number by one cipher. They keep a weekly market, Saturdays, and two yearly fairs, one in the Whitsun week and the other at Luke's feast. As this place may glory of many worthy lords in succession of divers famihes, (whereof some of either name have been here interred,) though we know not how to distinguish them but by their armories; yet that is not his only honour, for it also bred a worthy and great scholar in the time of Edward I., a native of this place, whence he took his addition Johannes de Bampton, a monk of the Carmelite order. He is the first that read Aristotle publicly in the schools in Cambridge, when he lived there; was after Doctor of Divinity, and wrote sundry good books. Here our river is augmented on each hand with a pretty brook : that on the right cometh from Anstye, (q. Hanst-hye,) known from another of the same name by the addition East : it appertained to the long continued name of Esse; but now by three co-heirs come to three generous families. Bear, Sydenham, and Molford. Here Reigny and Cruwys held land also. That on the left comes from Petton and Dipford. It passeth Okeford, a passage through a grove of oaks possessed by Vaulter, de Valletorta, or de Vallibus, whose heir general possessed Pollard therewith: from whom is Sir Lewis Pollard, now baronet. Haverington, alias Harrington, now Rolle, holds land here also, and Spurway. And now swollen with (a desire of greater name and fame as with) waters. 98 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK II. it passeth carelessly by Stoodley, and therein by Warbrightsleigh, (com- monly Warpslegh,) Beacon-hill; mider which is the seat of Sir Roger de Acastre ; and his issue brought it to Sackevill, alias de Sicca Villa ; and his only heir brought it to the generous tribe of Broughton, who now posses- seth it, and married GifFard, his father the co-heir of Estcote. Then it sees Loxbear, Lockisbear, abas Lochebere, the inheritance of Avenel, in the age of Edward II. Domesday Book shows that Algarus had it before the conquest; and that WiUiam I. gave it to the Bishop of Coutance. Next Washfield, where the river washeth the field, and therefore so called. A manor there is possessed by the family of Hams. There is also Worth, which bestowed his name on a family of very long continuance and worshipful state, flourishing to this age. This house may seem to be denominated of the site, which in the ancient Saxon speech signifieth a fruitful place fit for habitation, between two waters. He married Frye : his father, Fortescue. Calwoodly, long possessed by a family of hke denomination. Sir Milo Caldwoodleigh held it in the time of Edward I., lately alienated to Southcote, a younger branch of that tribe. He married ; his father married Mary, the daughter of John Crocker of Lynham, esq. ; his grandfather, a daughter of Robinson, an alderman of London. Here I cannot forget Mr. AtwiU,* some time incumbent in this rectory ; a man generally well learned and a professor of physick, and named The Poors' Physician ; to whom he not only gave medicine but rehef, for what he took from the rich (which was veiy mode- rate,) he presently bestowed on the next poor he met: to whom he gave all his estate; never desiring more than to serve present occasion; laying up his treasure in heaven, where the rust corrupteth not, neither do thieves break through and steal. CHAPTER III. Of the Hundred of Tiverton, containing five Parishes. Now are we come to the borough, barony, and mayoralty "of Tiverton, more rightly Twy-ford-town, as standing between the two rivers of Exe * He was admitted to this living by Bishop Turberville, on the 27lh of January, 1558—9, but resigned it for St. Ewes in Cornwall, late in 1596, where he was buried on 4th of May, 1617, aged 91. His will bears date the 4th of February that year. — G.O ., — P. J, Chap. III.] view of Devonshire. 99 and Lowman - water ; called by Leland the Sunning Brook. The passage through these two fords, ere the bridges were built, gave cause of this no- mination; as Twynam -bourne, uovr Christ Church, in Hampshire, and Inter Amna in Italy; both situate between two rivers. This borough is verv ancient, with a market, Tuesdays and Saturdays: and King Henry I. ho- noured it with the title of a barony; giving it, with Phmptori, to Richard de Ripariis, Redvers, alias Rivers, for by all these he is written; creating him afterwards Earl of Devon ; giving him the third penny of the yearly revenues of the county, amounting then to ten marks. Here was his chief mansion house, very near the church, whereunto be- longed two parks for pleasure, and large and rich demesne for hospitality. He was lord of the whole town and patron of the church; wliich puts me in mind of a pretty incident between one of them and his incumbent;* said to be thus: — Hugh Courtenay, the second or third of that name, father and son; one of them in the time of Edward III. gave this rectory to a chaplain he had; who, having lived incumbent on it some time, and being, as it is to be supposed, of a generous and bountiful nature, would complain in generality, and some- times particularly to his lord's officers, that the rectory yielded not a sufficient maintenance for one of his place, and mind to keep hospitality answerable to his calling. This often spoken, came in time to his lord's ears; who, in a convenient time, conferred with his said chaplain concerning his complaint, and told him he had considered thereof and was pui^posed to procure him a living more proportionable to his mind and more convenient, if he would resign this. The incumbent tickled with these words, and filled with hopes of higher promotion, was ready at the very instant to resign ; and the noble earl (a work worthy his wisdom,) divided it (which then might easily be done,) into four parts, or quarters. Prior, Tydcomb, Clare, and Pitt, with intent to bestow it on four divers men; but with some respect to his old chaplain, the last incumbent, offered him the choice; which he, seeing no other preferment ready, and percei\ang his lordship's intent, gratefully ac- cepted; and thereby taught to live by a crown, that could not live by a * The whole of the church had been given by Baldwin de Rivers to St. James's Priory, Exeter, before the year 1146 ; hut the division into four prebends liad taken place a full century before any of the Courtenay family had succeeded to the patronage of Tiverton. G. O.,— P. J. 100 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK 11. pound : and may counsel and advise all men to be content when they are well and have enough. " Nature's with a little pleas'd : — enough's a feast : A sober life but a small charge requires : But man, the author of his own unrest, The more he hath, the more he still desires. Each of these is now held a sufficient competency for a worthy man : ,three of them being suppHed by learned -men ; the fourth has been impropriated, or appropriated, to King's College, Cambridge, since the reign of King Henry VI. This parish is the head of the hundred and gives it its name, the honour whereof was held by the numerous and potent tribe of Leigh. This bo- rough is much benefited by its weekly marlfet of kersies of all sorts, and mixed and coloured cloths, which are either transported thence beyond the seas, or conveyed to London and there profitably sold, which may be easily conceived by considering the great wealth gotten by an inhabitant thereof not long since deceased ; who, for his bountiful large legacies to pious uses, is right worthy of a perpetual remembrance, and the particulars thereof (if I could relate them.) fit to be registered, never to be forgotten. A worthy living monument is the fair free school by him erected and perpetually sti- pended. His name is Peter Blundell; in whose memory, on St Peter's day, there is yearly, there and in other places, a feast kept. But I must now pass to a subject of sadness. This towTi had a woeftd market on the 3rd of April, 1598, when the whole town, consisting of 600 houses, was, in less than two hours, utterly consumed, with divers persons to the number (as I am told,) of fifty. This sudden fire began in the wes- tern part of the town over the river, called thereby West-Exe, about one of the clock in the afternoon, and kindled with so violent a wind that, to the great ten-or and amazement of all the spectators, it was suddenly blown over the large river, and all the town generally and instantly in one flame, and consumed to ashes, the church and two alms-houses only (and not without wonder,) preserved ; the last being in the midst of the fire and the flame kindled therein, and yet quenched of itself without help of man. So pow- erful is the great God of Heaven, and so prone to mercy, and so vigilant and watchful of those whom he taketh into his protection. — Chap. III.] view of Devonshire. 101 As at his side as he doth stand A thousand dead shall be; Ten thousand eke at his right hand, And yet he shall be free. Psalm xci. 7. Great were the riches and wealth consumed in these flames, vet God enabled them in a short time to re-edify it again as fair (that I say not fairer,) than before; and it flourished again with great trade for some fifteen years; and then again, on the 5th of August, 1 612, it pleased God to try their patience again with the like sudden fire, to their greater hindrance, yea, even to the utter impoverishing of the whole town, and to the great grief and sorrow of the good men of the same, (this last leaving it almost hopeless of recovery,) who, duly considering the cause of this their punishment, without murmur- ing or repining, mourned forth with patient Job, — Ah ! naked came we from our mother's womb, And naked shall we return unto our tomb : The Lord hath taken what himself hath given : Blessed be God Almighty, Lord of heaven. And God, remembering his mercy, hath again, the second time, enabled them to rebuild it much fairer than anv time before: so that it may com- fortably be applied to this borough what is written of the re-engendering of the Phcenix by fire, — " Worn out with age, wishing her endless end, To shining flames she doth herself commend; Dies to revive, and goes unto her grave To rise again more beautiful and brave : Just like the first, or much more fair indeed. Though re-engend'ring of the self-same seed." It were good resting here, after your painful travel ; but we are but pil- grims, and must haste to come to our journey's end ; only telling you by the way that this town was incorporated by King James, 10th August, 1615, Mr. Spurway being their first mayor. It yields two burgesses to serve at the parliament; and on Michaelmas day hath a plentiful fair-day. The church is worth your view; where we shall find, or lately might, these armories and epitaphs : — CouRTENAY. — Or, three torteauxes, impaled with four coats quartered. 1st. England and France. 2nd. Ulster. — Or, a cross gu. 3rd as 2u<3. o 102 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [RoOK II. 4th. Mortimer. — Barry of six, or, and azure on a chief of the first three pal- lets. Gules a bar between three plain crosses, or. Cheeky azure and or, a chev- ron erm. Courtenay impaling Bohun azure, abend, arg., between two cotices and six lions rampant, or. Courtenay impaling gu. a cross, or. Courtenay impaled with St. John. — Arg. on a chief gu., two mullets, or. Courtenay impaling Spencer. — Quarterly, arg., and gules in 2nd and 3rd, a frettee, or, with a bend, gules. Courtenay impaling Camois. — Or, on a chief gu. three plates. Courtenay impaled with Brian. — Or, three piles in point, azure. Rivers. — Or, a lion rampant. Copleston. — Arg., a chev. gu. between three leopards' faces, azure, impaling Hewes. — Gu. frettee a canton, arg. Eng- land and France, with Beaufort. — A bordure arg. and azure gobony. Tal- bot. — Gu. a lion rampant with a bordure or. Lacy. — Azure, three shovellers' heads erased, arg. Clavel. — Sab. three keys, arg , impaled with Gambon. — Arg., a bar between three legs couped at the knee, sab. Gambon impaled with arg., three escalops between two chevrons, sab. Champernoun. — Gu. a saltire vairy between twelve billets, or, impaled with Sir John Courtenay', second son of Sir Philip Courtenay of Powderham. All these foregoing coats appear ancient : those that follow are lately set up. Greenway. — Gu. a chevron, or, between three cups covered; impaling, or, on a chief arg. three griffins' heads erased azure. Walrond. — Arg. three bulls' faces sab. attired, or. Spurway. — Arg. on a bend between three cross crosslets sab., three garbs arg. Francis. — Arg. a chev. between three mullets, gul. pierced. Sharpe. — Quarterly arg. 1st. three ravens' heads erased, sab. a bordure azure. 2nd. Pycott. — Sab. three pickaxes, arg. The 3rd as the 2nd; the 4th as the 1st. Cholmley. (query, Cockaine.) — Arg. three cocks' azure. Di- MONT. — Gu. on three fufils, arg., a bar of the first. "West. — Sab., a lion be- tween six billets, or. Blundel. — Gu. two pales, arg., Ackland. — Checkee arg. and sab. a fess gu. Now for the monuments and epitaphs. First there is a fair monument for Roger Giffard, with his arms and quarterings thus : — GiFFARD, — 1. Sab. three fusills in fess erm. impaling. Cobleigh. — 2. Gyrony of eight sab. and gu. on a bend between two swans, each bearing in his beak a cross fleury fitchy arg. three pellets. 3. Indent, per fess gu. and arg. 4. Three bugles, garnished sab. " Sacrum memoria; monumentum generosisimi Viri Rogeri Gifiard Armigeri. Armigeri quondam Giffardi membra Rogeri Haec tegit in cineres terra soluta suos. Chap. III.] view of Devonshire. lO'^ Miles erat genitor dominus de Brightlegh Rogerus Quintus et ipsius filius ille fuit. Consors prima thori, nati genetrixque Georgi Nata Equitis de Affton, Audria Steucla fuit. Corporis externo multuin spectabilis ore, Mentis et internae gratia major erat. Cultor amicitiae constans, et cultor agrorum Sumtnus egenorum cultor, amansque fuit. Ex triplice binos generavit conjuge natos Nee viditstirpis germinaplura suae. In cunis unus moritur, remanetque secundus, Hoc patri sacrum conficiebat opus. Septuaginta senex postquam compleverat annos Ecce! animam caelo reddidit, ossasolo. Obiit etsepultus Tiverton 8 Octob, A. D. 1603. Another on a plain stone is this, — " Mary Shepherd, a tender blossom, Only eight years old ; Whom death pluckt quickly oS, Lyeth cover'd here in mould. May 5, 1622." Another, — " Margaret Garnet : — God gave me life, But lest I sin should see. He took 't away again That gave it unto me. April 26, 1621." On another stone, — "Quae jacet hie fuit uxor amans, bona, pulchra, benigna, Pauperibus verax, provida, munda Parens. Also, — " Dormit hie, Johanna sata Almericis Caja cum Cajo Samuele Butler, Quae suo vixit pia, perque Jesum." Here sleepeth Johan, from the armories descended. Who Caja dear to Samuel Butler lived ; Her Cajus, when her godly life was ended. To the heavens due, by Christ she is received. Here are two more, which, though they want metre, they are not vacant of matter more worthy to be perpetuated than the other. — 104 VIEW OP DEVONSHIRE. [ BoOK II. " Here under lyeth buried the body of George [Slee of Tiverton, Merchant, who departed this life the 1st of September, 1629, He gave by his will, to bo distributed to the poorest people of Tiverton, 50£ ; to the parish church and church-yard of Tiverton, 10£ ; to and for the building of an aims-house, for six poor, aged, and honest vpomen, and to purchase rents for their maintenance, at 12d. the week to each of them, 500£; to fifty poor crafts-men, of good and honest, fame, 100£; to the poorest, honest, and painfuUest labourers in Tiverton, 10£; to the parish church of Coleridge, for the relief and keeping on work of the poor- est people there, 10£ ; to the poor of the parish of Halberton, 40s; to the poor of the parish of Uplowman, 40s. He left behind him living, two sons and three daughters." The next is, — " Here lyeth John Waldron, Merchant, of Tiverton, founder of the alms-house by west Exe."* In this parish are divers tithings and manors, as at Cheverston, now Cheathorn, v^^hich was the seat of Richard de Chiverthorn, in the age of Edward I., after of Culme; now of Francis of Comb-flory in Somersetshire, Pasmore of Pasmore-hays. Loman-ClavUe, where Sir George Clavil in- habited in the time of Henry III. BoUam, or Botham, owned by the abbot of Dunkeswell. Chetelescome, now Chetscombe, whereof Sir Walter de Escudamore, and after Robert Avenel, were possessors. Nethecot, held by Robert Maudyt. Here Exe is crowned with a fair bridge of stone, and at the town's end receiveth a continual subsidy of the riveret Lumen, or Loman, called of Leland the Sunning Brook; who fetcheth his original in Somersetshire, near Clehanger, passing by Huntsham, the seat of Bear, Robertus Beare, tenet Huntsham, under * The inscription on the cornice of Waldron's alms-houses is as follows : — [over the first door,] " Depart thy Goods vvhil" [over the second door,] " Thou hast Tyme for after" [over the third door,] " Thy Death theyre are not thyne." Inscription running under the roof: — 1^= "John Waldron merchaunt and Richard his wyfe, builded this house in tyme of their Life, at suche Tyme as the walls were fourtyne foote hye, he departed this worlde even the Eyghtynth of Julye. — Anno Dom, 1579. " Since Youth and Lyfe doth pas away — and Death's at hand to end our Dayes — Let us do so that men may saye — we spent onr Goodes God for to prays — he that uppon the Poore doth spende — the Goods that he hath here — too God agen the same doth send — and paye the same with greate encreas. " Remember the poore." G. O., — P. J. Chap. IV.] view of Devonshire. 105 Edward II. Thomas de Saunton and William de Pedixhil before him, Of the name of Beare I find an elder remembrance, as Sir Gilbertus de Beare, Lord of Beare in the time of Henry III., and his posterity long after. This gentleman married Drew; his father, ; his grandfather, . This riveret gives name to divers places, as Uplowman, whereof Sir William de Lumine was possessed under Henry III. Lumen-Clavil held by John de Clavil. Chil- Lumen, by the abbot of St. Augustine of Bristol. Then leaves it Sampford, which for distinction from another of like name, and due remembrance of a good lord hath the adjunct of Peverel; a stirpe of great birth and estimation in elder times. After Sir Elias Cottle held it and wrote himself thereof; but now it is one of the seats of the Ho- nourable John Lord Powlet of Hinton; which, standing on the side of a hill, hath woods and ponds — winter's treasure and summer's pleasure ; and fair pastures for hospitality, for which the name hath been very highly commended. CHAPTER IV. TJie Hundred of Halberton containeth three parishes^ Then come we to Halberton, not inuch noted, but that it nameth the hundred, containing but three parishes, which John de Bosco, alias Wood, alias de Boys, sometime held ; now Powlet. But let us return to Exe, which has swallowed up this lesser river, fleets not like the waters of Shilo, which, (as the prophet saith) runneth softly, but with a stiff and hasty current seek.s out Bicklegh, or Buckley, taking its name of beech trees, more frequent there than in any place near it; and by the way takes in Dart, a mill-driving brook, which cometh from Morchard, Morcet, or Morcester; written anciently with these latter names. Richard Cruwys [de Cruce] had it in the time of King John, and afterward Sir Robert and Sir Alexander ; and from this generous tribe hath gotten the addition of Cruwys, to be known from another, and is termed 106 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK II. Cruwys-Morchard, which name yet possesseth it, and married Trefry; his father. Hatch; his grandfather, Kains. Then it passeth through Cadley, ( Park, I was saying, for so it had been lately, but the now possessor, as many others now do, employs it to a more profitable use than to gratify the gentlemen, his neighbours, with fat vension.) It was anciently the lands of Wilham Chivere, Mohun, and Courtenay, now of Sir Simon Leach. And now hath it found Bicklegh, the ancient moted towered house of Sir WdHam de Bickley, under Henry III.; since of Poyntingdon, Courtenay, and now of the anci- entest of the noble and famous stirpe of the Carews: the etymology of whose name is expressed by a worthy gentleman, of the family, in these verses, — " Carew of ancient Carru is, And Carru is a plough : — Romans the trade, Frenchmen the word, I do the name avow." &c. That their original was (as is supposed ) from the dukes and kings of Swabia, is very probable, (a region in the higher Germany,) whose inhabi- tants Plutarch termeth Gens populosa, fortis, audax, et beUicosa, et Ger- manorum prEestantissiiTia, the most of the family having been, in all ages, martial men, and worthily deserving to their prince and country, as this present age (as weU as former) can sufficiently approve. Their armories have also a near similitude to the Swabian kings, viz, three Uons in pale passant of the diamond in a field of the topaz ; the Swabian differing only in being gardant. Some younger brother of that royal house coming hither in quest of honour, with the Saxons, or Danes, or Normans, might seat himself in this kingdom ; of whom the first I can remember was Edmond, said to be named Mountgomerie, who married Elizabeth, daughter of Rhe- sius, alias Rice, Prince of South Wales, whose dowry was Carew Castle, whence they might take the name of Carew. To search no higher, it wUl be averred by authentical evidence that he flourished in the time of Henry I., (son to the Conqueror,) who gave him the manor of Molesford, in the county of Berks. After, they got much lands in Ireland, in the County of Cork, by the sister and heir of Miles Courcy, and by another match the barony of Odron. But I wiU forbear to dehneate their descent ere I find the monument of Sir Peter Carew in the Chap. IV.] view of Devonshire. 1^7 cathedral church of St. Peter in Exeter, on which their matches are fairly exemplified. Divers, of ancient times, of the name are registered in the chronicles; and that, worthy of our age, noble Sir George, dignified with the honour to be Earl of Totnes, in his own native country, merits a far better register than my weak pen ; I wUl therefore speak only a word or two of liis uncle, Thomas Carew, of Bickley, esq., while we are at the place, whose valiant action no pen hath yet recorded. This gentleman was second brother to Sir William Carew of Mohuns, Otter}', knight; both sons to Baron Carew, slain at Turpin, as he sat in councU, with the shot of a great piece, A° 1513; married Ehzabeth, the only daughter and heiress of Humphry Courtenay, esq., lord of Bickley; sixth son to Sir Phihp Courtenay, of Powderham, knight, who had married Ehzabeth, daughter to the Lord Hungerford; which, Humphry, dying before his father, left the care of his daughter unto him ; and he again entrusted her to the oversight of Sir WiUiam Carew, with whom our esquire lived. Being both in one house they were soon famihar, and it was not long ere he won the young gentlewoman's love; which they kept so secret, that he married her and carried her away ere the matter was any way suspected ; whereby he incurred the high displeasure both of her grandfather, Sir Philip Courtenay, and of his brother; the which to regain after a time of due consideration, being young and of an able and active body, being born of a warlike race, and having in him the inherent seeds of hereditary virtue, as Homer speaks of Achilles : — " It irk'd his noble heart to sit At home in slothful rest, When martial matters were in hand. The which he loved best." He therefore put himself to serve Henry Earl of Surrey, Lord High Ad- miral of England ; who, having the king's fleet at sea, landed his men to assist his father, the Duke of Norfolk, at Flodden Field in Scotland : some- what before which battle a Scottish knight, of a high spirit, made a chal- lenge to any Englishman to fight with him in single duel for the honour of his country; which was entertained by our esquire, and upon request made to the Lord, admitted he was to answer the challenge. In the field, ac- cording to agreement, these two champions met, when Mr. Carew was van- ^08 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK II. quisher; which got him great commendation generally, and especial favour of the Lord Admiral ; which was augmented hy another hke service shortly after in this manner: — not long after the Lord Admiral riding forth upon some service, a band of Scots was suddenly descried very near and coming towards them, so that the Earl was very doubtful how to make an honour- able retreat, for he was in danger to be entrapped at a strait and narrow passage of a bridge ; in which sudden and unexpected danger Mr. Carew in- stantly entreated the Lord Admiral to change armour and martial attire with him, for by such means he might make the easier escape, if need were ; which the Lord, by earnest persuasion, at length yielded unto. Our esquire, in rich habit, presently crossed the bridge on horseback, and for a time vali- antly defended and kept the passage, gaining time for his Lord to retreat; but the match being very unequal, he was at length taken prisoner, to the no little rejoicing of the enemy, who followed not the rest of the troop, thinking they had sufficient in having the general prisoner, for, by the rich- ness of his arms, they had reason to think so: they carried him to the Castle of Dunbar, where he was courteously entertained and respected, in regard that the lady of the castle had then a brother prisoner in England, hoping by exchange to have him delivered ; for by that time they knew and perceived their error, and that it was not the general. The lady was always affable and courteous to her prisoner; but the por- ter of the house, a maUcious and currish fellow, dealt most cruelly and dog- gedly with him; for on a time when Mr. Carew was sitting quietly and securely by the fire in his chamber, this porter came suddenly on him with his sword dravpn, intending to murder him; which his prisoner perceiving, rose suddenly up, catching the chair he sat on to defend himself, and using the best means he could to save his life, he gave the keeper such a knock as he lay dead in the place; whereupon he was cast into a deep dungeon, and there was he kept in such hard and poor manner that he fell danger- ously sick, but especially of a dyssentry that never left him until his death : yet after long time he was redeemed and returned hither to his manor of Bicklegh; and the noble Lord Admiral forgot not his good service, but en- tertained him vrith manifold courtesy and friendship, making him his Vice- Admiral of this county, assisting him in all his occasions. His son, Humph- ry, married Hui-st; his son, Peter, Chudlegh; Sir Henry, Mohun. Here our river Exe, sometimes overflowing his banks, roveth a great Chap. IV.] view of Devonshire. i09 way over the face of the bordering fields, but commonly returneth within twenty-four hours, and retireth into his usual limits; and so having well bathed and refreshed the land, yields greater benefit to the possessors. But once, commonly every year, (as is written of the Indian elephant,) when it suddenly, especially in the night, grows in a rage, it repays with an ill turn to boot. The church stands near the river, and is so little will soon be viewed : where this we find, — Carew. — " Or, three lions passant in pale sable, impaled with Hurst — Arg., the planet Mars, gu. Carew. — Impaled with Chudlegh. — Erm., three lions salianl, giil. Chiderlegh. — Arg. on a chev. sable, between three ravens' heads eras, sab., three acorns, or, impaled with Ferrers — ^Arg. on a bend sab., three horse-shoes, or. Erizie. — Sab., a chevron between three griflBns segreant, or, impaled with Carew. Here we find a remembrance of Humphry Carew, esq., who deceased A. D. 1588. " Marmora nee tumuli, grandesve ex aere colossi, Nee Genus aut Proavi, nobile nomen habet. Fama, nobilitas, virtus, sic claraque Postera, transacta gens canit acta bene." Also upon a fair monument, made upon Elizabeth, daughter of Peter Carew, esq., wife unto Richard Erizie, of Grade, in Cornwall, esq., with her re- semblance, is this epitaph, — " Carew's daughter, Erizie's wife, her name Elizabeth, By pleasure of Almighty God in child-bed found her death ; Which sudden unexpected chance with grief did kill the joy Of gladded parents and her mate in bringing forth a boy. To God she liv'd, to God she dy'd, young year'd, in virtues old; And left, until she rise again, this tomb her corpse to hold." So passing by Tremil, sometime the habitation and birth-place of a fa- mous lawyer and rev. judge, Tremayl, an ornament of his country: in this parish is Chiderlegh, the seat of Chiderlegh:* then come wetoUpexe, sometime possessed by Malgerus de Sancto Albino, now by the Earl of Bath, near unto * Here a chapel was licensed for the family by Bishop Edmund Stafford, 11th of April, 1408.— G. O.,— P. J. p 110 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK II. Silferton, now Silverton ; but whence it should take its later rich name we may doubt, unless from the fertility of the glebe ; for the parish is large and fruitful. It was anciently the land of Beauchamp, lately of Wadham, and now of his heirs general. It hath a little market every Saturday, and two fairs, the one on Midsummer day, the other on Saint Bartholomew's. Silverton was in the possession of Peter Corbet in 24th of Edward I., and of Gourny in 3rd of Richard II. In the church is a fair remembrance of Gilbert Bourne, bishop of Bath and Wells, who died here 1 0th September, A. D. 1569. Monkculm is a hamlet in this parish, whose name expresseth to whom it belonged, and the river it adjoineth. Hayne also, which I the rather speak of, in regard there is an observation had by tradition of a pool in that bar- ton, whereof they say it was never emptied but there fell some great storm or violent weather ere it was finished, which some gentlemen of good worth would lately make proof of: thinking it but a frivolous relation. For their better proceeding, on a fair morning in the summer time they timely pre- pared themselves and their people, and to work they go, and by three in the afternoon they had near finished their work, when suddenly there came such a violent tempest of thunder and Hghtning, and great rain, that they were enforced to leave off and seek shelter, even when they were jesting at their old neighbours that maintained the sundry trials thereof, which they also found true. Exe on the right hand leaveth Thorverton, or rather Thorowford-ton, so called of a brook running through the town, where it yields good commo- dity' by driving their mills and fattening their meadows and pastures; for which kindness it decks him with a fair bridge of stone, of much use, as being in the trade way from the Land's-end in Cornwall, and all that coun- ty, to the city of London ; and gives him also a continual tribute of the waters of her brook which spring in Cadberry, alias Caderbyr, the land of WilUam de Campo Arnulphi, and after of Willoughby, Fursdon, and now Carew. The castle may be seen afar off, so they term a high upright topped hill, by nature and shght art anciently fortified, which in those Roman or Saxon wars might be of great strength, containing within the compass thereof near two acres. Hence you may see some five miles distant to the south-east, in the parish of Broad-clist, another down called Dolbury-Hill. Between these two hills Chap. IV,] view of Devonshire. ill (you may be pleased to hear a pretty tale,) it is said ( I set not down these words to lessen your belief of the truth of the matter, but to let you know that Nil prseter auditum habeo, — Take it on this condition, It holds credit by tradition,) that a fieiy dragon (or some ignis-fatuus in such likeness,) hath been often seen to fly between these hills, coming from the one to the other in the night season, whereby it is supposed there is great treasure hid in each of them, and that the dragon is the tnisty treasurer and sure keeper thereof ; (as he was of the golden fleece in Colchos, which Jason, by the help of Medsea, brought thence ;) for, as Ovid saith, he was very vigilant, — "A watchful dragon set The golden fleece to keep, Within whose careful open eyes Came never wink of sleep." And these two relations may be as true, one as the other, for anything I know, for this is constantly beheved of the credulous here, and some do aver to have seen it lately. And of this hidden treasure this rhyming pro- verb goes commonly and anciently, — "If Cadbury Castle and Dolbury Hill Jolven were All England might plough with a golden share." Hardly so true as that of Kingston Hill in Cornwall, and yet that needs a strong beHef also : the proverb says, — " Kingston Hill well wrought Is worth London town dear bought." But a discreet gentleman of this country hath, by altering one only word of the verse, made it much more credible, as thus, — " If Cadbury Castle and Dolbury Hill dolven were All England might plough with an iron share." But whether this Cadbury, or North Cadbury in Somersetshire, were Cath- Brigion where famous King Arthur (as Nennius writes,) in a memorable battle defeated the Saxons, you may learn perchance of some other ; it is my part only to move the question. , / / li2 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK II. But we will retire into Thorverton church to clear our minds of these idle fantasies; (for places dedicated to religious purposes put holy thoughts in our hearts;) and here am I grieved to see wrong offered to the deceased, — the monument of WalHs, of Raddon Court, (so they term the lord's mansion house, where he keeps his law-courts,) fairly beautified and inlaid in brass, utterly defaced : it was a tribe of the chiefest rank ; one of them a knight in the time of Edward I. The daughter and heiress of the last of the name brought this and other good inheritance to Digby in the time of Henry 7th, of which dignous tribe is Sir John Digby, Baron of Shirebum and Earl of Bristol. The chief manor in this parish belongs to the dean and chapter of Exon, the gift of Sir John Wiger, knight, in 1280. Nether-Exe hath taken name and changed it with the river. It hath been enjoyed by divers families, as Tracy, Clivedon, Cruwys, Limpany, and Hurst. Our river cometh now vdth a large extent to Stoke, surnamed of his ancient lords Canon, as belonging to the Canons of St. Peter's of Exon, given, as some say, in perpetuam elemosynam, by King Athelstan ; others say, by a gentleman of that name that lived at Athelstau's-HaU, in the South-hams : but we suppose, by a window in the church, that it was given by that puissant prince King Canutus, or Knott, in the way of expiation of the cruel slaughter which his father, Swayn, the Dane, made of the citizens and monks of Exeter ; for in one of the windows he is portraited with this inscription, — " Stock-Chanon, a place of residency for canons, and belonging to the canons of the cathedral church of Exon." This is but a tradition : this window was not glazed in divers hundred of years after ; nor in his age, nor long after were there any canons ; and therefore I do rather consent to Esquire Athelstan's donation. CHAPTER V. The progress of the River Culme. Now this river we have followed so long shall meet his equal, where you might expect a great and strong contention for superiority; but the river Chap, v.] view of Devonshire. 113 Culme, so called, perchance, quasi Calme, wiU not resist but yields at first encounter, and quietly passeth mingled with Exe. Culme fleeteth, hke the waters of Shiloah, with a slow and still current. It first ariseth near Hackpendown, and nameth three parishes adjoining, as Culm-David, which hath its adjunct from an inhabitant of that name, which tribe was long since worn out ; Culm- Stock, (stock or stow, according to the ancient Saxons' speech, is a dwelling or seat, or place of habitation,) upon Culme. The bishop held this before the conquest by this name. Ufi"culme, or rather Up-culme, is the third place nominated by our river ; wherein is Bradfield, alias Broad-field, de campo lato, the habitation of a race of much respect, Wahond : he married Sydenham ; his father. Ware ; his grandsire, Willoughby. By naming of these three of Culme's children we passed Church- Staunton, which cleaveth so near to Somersetshire that we could not at first sight claim it as our own : now we find it to be anciently our's ; and that Sir Robert Teddington, alias Tuddenham, held it of Joel Vaulter : he of Nicholas Moeles; he again of James Newmarket; and he of the honour of Cayer-Leon. Cley-Hidon took his addition from a tribe of very great estate in his time. Sir John Hidon of Cley-Hidon, and Sir Wilham Hidon of Clist- Hidon, in the time of Edward I. ; the two co-heirs of the house were mar- ried to Carew and Halse. WiUand, which Vitahs held by the name of Wellelond, by one Virge, in the Conqueror's time:* after I find that Prior de Tanton tenet Willelond. Here we have a good augmentation from Burlescombe, ahas Buscomb. It puts us in mind of the ancient tribe of BurUl, which was potent for a while : he was also named Woodland. In this parish is the seat of Cha- nons, alias Channons-Leigh; taldng denomination from the issue of the great Earl of ChaUons, of whose third son came Sir Hardwin ChaUons, and after Sir Peter ChaUons of ChaUons-Leigh, under King John; Sir Ralph under Edward I.; divers other in descent, until Catherine, a daughter and heiress of the family, weakened the strength of their state by strengthening St. Awbin ; yet there remained a branch of the same stock, but planted in another soil. Here Walter Clavile founded a monastery of virgins, vestal, dedicated to the * The Exeter Domesday, fol. 379, b., says that Odo was the Lord of Willelanda, and that Vitalis held it of Odo, and had in domain one virgate, and the Villani had three virgates. — G. O., — P. J. 114 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [ BoOK II. honour of the blessed Vhgin; and enlarged by Maude, Countess of Clare, wife of Roger Earl of Clare and Hereford, and daughter and heiress to James St. Hilary.* At the surrender, valued at £197. 3s. Id., king Henry VIII. granted it to St. Leger, and he to Culme, though his ancient seat be at Champston, but more ancient at Culme-John ; he married Courtenay; his father, Fortescue; his grandfather, Fry. Ashford is also to be remembered, alias Esseford : anciently possessed by a worthy family of the same name, and flourisheth yet in this age, walking with his white staff, commanding, under our royal sovereign, the whole county for this year, 1630. He married Blewet; his father, Michel; his grandfather, the daughter and co-heiress of Whiting of Wood, in Kentis- bear. But I cannot so leave this place; for though I find John Ashford, of Ashford, in the time of Edward I., and elder in the time of King John, yet I do think good to give this caveat by the way, once for aU, that when you find gentlemen and their houses in name ahke, you be not confident, as some are, to maintain that the house took name of the man ; which in this and many other I cannot conceive to be so, but rather the contrary, the house to give denomination to the possessor ; for who will imagine, think, or beheve, or can yield a reason, why a gentle tribe, or any man, should be called Ash- ford, Grenvile, FuKord, Northcot, and Westcote, with many other the like in this country, but from the place of their habitation : as de Asliford, or de vado fraxino; Grenvile, or de villa viridi; or campo viridi; de Fulford, de vado pleno, or as others, de turpi vado, de Northcot and de Westcote as they are according to the site of their house with the addition of their place. Yet will I not conclude all, for there are some again of the other side also ; but the most part of those places have former names, and their lords' names for some cause, either for virtue, valour, (worthy perpetual remem- brance,) or distinguishing them from other of the hke name, are added to them ; as here presently at hand ; Moore of Moorehays ; a tribe of very good worth and antiquity. He married Coffin ; his father, Bampfield ; his grandfather. Sir John Pomeroy. And next Forde of Forde-More. * Here our author has confounded the residence of the family of Challons, in the parish of Plympton ; nor was he aware that there was a priory of Augustine Canons settled here by Walter de Clavill, almost a century before the convent of nuns was established by the Countess Matilda, after which this house was often called Mynchynleye, — G. O., — P. J. Chap. V.] view of Devonshire. 115 And not far thence is Oreway, possessed by William de Oreway in the time of Henry III.; after by Farringdon, Drake, and Flea. In the com- mons there is a stone yet pitched bearing the name of Oreway-Stone. Holcombe is w^ell known from another so called by the adjunct of Rogus, (not, as some have imagined, of bondmen, called also villains and rogues,) but of an ancient and generous kindred ; for we may read of Sir Rogan, or Rogus Fitzsimon de Holcomb, knight, under Henry II.; and in the time of Henrv III. of Sir Simon Fitz Rogan, of Holcomb, knight ; by the heir general of which line it came to the knightly house of Blewet, who married Portman; his father, Lancaster's heir; his grandfather, Chichester; his but I will stay here lest antiquity prescribes my knowledge far. Robert, of that family, was, in the time of King William Rufus, bishop of Lincoln. We are come with our river to Culumpton, a market town denominated from him, a goodly large parish, and hath two fairs, on 1st. May, and on St. Simon and Jude's day. (28th October.) It was the king's demesne in the elder time; King Alfred gave it by his testament (with much other good lands in this country,) to Ethelward, a younger son of his. In the Confessor's time Godwin held it, and after Othelyne :* King Henry VIII. gave it in exchange to St. Leger, and he alienated it unto divers persons. It hath a fair church and a good tower built in the memory of some yet or lately living, which graceth it much. It hath not many epitaphs ; but some I remember, as — "Hie jacet Johannes Lane, Mercator, hujusque Capelle fundator fuit, cum Thomasina, Uxore sua; qui dictus Johannes obiit 15 die Feb. A. D. 152S." Another, — "Orate pro auimabiis Johaauis Moore, Arm. et Elizabethae Uxoris ejus ; qui quidem Johannes obiit 4*0* die Jan. A. D. 1509. Et Elizabetha;, A. D. 1515." Also of that family, — " Hie jacet Willielmus Moore gen. et Mauritius Moore fraterejus; necnon Dorothea uxor ejusdem Willi : ac omnes eorum Willi : et Dorothea Filii. Hie quidem ab luce migravit 6to. die Decembris A. D. 1518." * The (ruth is, the Conqueror gave it to Baldwin, the Sheriff of Devonshire, and Otelinusheld it under Baldwin. — Exeter Domesday, fol. 306. It continued in Baldwin's family until Amieia, Countess of Devon, in 1278, bestoived it on her foundation, Buck- land Abbey.— G. O.,— P. J. 116 VIBW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK II. Here is Langford which gave habitation and denomination to the old and long hne of Langford, of whence was Sir Richard de Langford, under Henry III., and after him in descent divers knights. John, the last of the tribe, bestowed it upon Corpus Christi College in Oxford. Their now tenant is Hatch. Another manor is Aller-Peverel, which shows whose inheritance it was. After, in our time, purchased by Sir WiUiam Periam, knight. Lord Chief Baron ; and with the eldest of his co-heirs, it is now the inheritance of Sir John Pole, hart. Pontesford, or Pontford, was held by Philip Basset; Colbrook by ; but enough of this. Here is yet a remnant of the name of Molton. Here falls in a riveret called Waver, which names a manor or two, and springs at Kentisbeare, where Windham possesseth a manor ; and Whiting held Wood, a fair seat and demesne, by one of whose co-heirs it came to be a second seat to Walrond. We pass by Water- staff, and draw near to Bradnese, so namsd when Brightwould held it ; and WiUiam Chievre had it of the Conqueror ; now Bradninge : which is a barony of the earldom, now duchy, of Cornwall. It belongeth to our right noble prince. King Edward II. bestowed it on his dearly beloved favourite. Piers Gaveston ; whom he created, first Baron of WaUingford, and after Earl of Cornwall. It consisteth of three parts. The fee, which is of such gentlemen as hold thereof in knights' service, with wardship and rehef, and suit at court twice in the year. The manor is of such as in ordinary with other manors. The borough, first limited by the lord himself, by charter, (so it was in those days,) by which they challenge to make choice yearly of a mayor, to govern the same, and to have cogni- zance of pleas : and for their better proceeding have a recorder and ser- geants. Tliey have also forches, tumbrel, and pillory; the view of bread and ale, and freewarren. It is very ancient, and so it must be to claim priority and antiquity of Exeter, and yet should seem to have some reason for it, if the proverbial speech be tnie which saith, that the mayor of Exeter is to hold the mayor of Bradninch's stirrup when they meet together, which is strange; and yet no stranger in some men's opinion than for the emperor to do the Uke service to the pope, and that we read hath been done ; but how the pope holds this privilege and continueth it I know not ; but Bradninch (they say,) hath lost it, for which a pretty reason is alleged; but our journey is long, and the reason also, and therefore I cannot stay to Chap. V.] view of Devonshire. 117 deliver it : but howsoever lost, there be gentlemen yet ( I thank God,) hv- ing that have seen the recorder of Exeter hold the recorder of Bradninch's stirrup. You will think perchance it was in merriment ; and to say the truth, so do I also. It hath a weekly market upon , and divers fairs. Then our river Culme cometh to Rew, (which I take to be Culme-Regis,) wliich was anciently held by Ulnod, a Saxon, before the conquest ;* and after by the family of de Sicca viUa, or Sachville; then by Sir Robert de Blakeford and Sir John de Blakeford, knights in Edward XL's reign; and lately Wadham, and now the heirs general of that family. Marsh, a cell of black monks, belonging to Plympton, and with it dissolved, stands in this parish. t Then come we to Huxham, which Robert de Huxham and his successors enjoyed, until it fell unto the female ; and she bestowed it well, with her- self, J in the house of Bamfield, her next neighbour, in Poltimore. Now it rejoiceth to see her banks beautified with so fair a house as Co- lum-John, and therefore spreads her arms so largely in that plain country that it makes a ford the length of a quarter of a mile, wherein you ride alway, the water as high as the beUy of a pretty nag; which place they name Paddle-ford. This was a private retiring house of the earls of this county. By the attainder of the marquess of Exeter it came to the king. Afterwards it lay long vacant, until Sir John Ackland re-edified it and gave it a fairer lustre than before; in which name it flourisheth. I find, in the time of King Edward II., John Culme, of Culm-John, esq., returned by the sheriff upon an inquest ; and Sir Walter de Colum in the reign of Richard I. We are now arrived at Brandford, aUas Branford, to which is added the name of its landlord, Speke, ahas LeEspeke; Su- William Espeke of Branford- Speke. under Edward II., and Sir John Speke, knight, sherift'of this county * Reuuva, perhaps so called from its situation between the Rivers Exe and Culm. The Conqueror gave it to the Bishop of Coutance, and Drogo held it under the Bishop. — Exeter Domesday, fol. 131. — G. O.,— P. J. t This is a mistake of the author ; the Cell stands in the parish of Alphington. A full account is given of it in the Monasticon of the Diocese of Exeter, under the article Plympton. — G. O., — P. J. X Johan, only daughter and heiress of William de Hokesham, in the early part of Edward lll.'s reign.— G. O.,— P. J. 1 1 18 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK II the 8th Henry VIII.; and although he be now transplanted into a richer $oi], yet was he as powerful here as there : for there are yet in remembrance certain by-paths over enclosed lands, which they call Speke's Paths, as law- ful for him and his people to ride, go, and drive that way, but for no other; but they are all well near forgotten and shut up now. Here might we expect some violent contention between these two rivers for superiority, but Culme being calm jdeldeth to Exe, who cometh with a strong and swift current, and so united they come to Upton-Pine, some- times called Branford-Pine ; which addition of Pine came from the ancient tribe of great reputation, of Pine. Herbert de Pine possessed it in the age of King John ; and Sir Simon de Pine was near to that time, but whether of this place or Combe-Pine I cannot say. Also Edward Pine, high sheriff in the 10th of Henry IV. The line of them was long, yet the longest day hath its end, and so had this race, falling into the female sex, which entitled Larder therewith ; and by the heir of that name it is now in the possession of a younger house of Copleston. To which seat of Pine, Exe being thus enlarged, is both a pleasant object and profitable neighbour; giving fatness to the soil, and clothing it vnth a green livery verdure of all flowers and vegetables ; and so draws towards Cowley-Bridge : but ere it arrives there it receiveth a large tribute of the pleasant river Greedy. CHAPTER VI. The original and progress of Creedy River. Creedy's first spring is somewhat above Puddington, anciently Pudde- legh ; and Wolsworthy, alias Wolfordsworthy ; both which parishes Richard Spencer, alias Le Despencer held, under Edward I. Puddington is now possessed by Hays. As it passeth Sandford it sees Dowrish, the ancient seat of a generous family of the same denomination, which is very variably written by the scribe or transcriber, for it hath been written Dowre of Dow- re, Dure of Dure, Doubtrich of Doubtrich, Duris of Duris ; and Richard Deurigg tenet Deurigg, in the time of Henry III.: and all these but one Chap. VI.] view op Devonshire. 119 stirpe and one house. One of the tribe was upon the commission at the first creation of justices of the peace. The last married Munck; his father, Walter, married Mary Carew, only sister to George, Earl of Totnes; his grandfather, Farringdon ; his eldest son. Walker. His next neighbour, Bremridge of Bremridge, or rather (as it may be supposed,) of Brem el-ridge; a place full of brambles and briers; hath had the like good fortune for antiquity; that race having enjoyed that place the best part of 400 years, with such a temperate moderation in every succes- sion, that greedy desire of riches hath neither much increased, nor prodi- gality decreased, it. Kennerly, alias Kingwardley, is so little that we had almost passed it unseen. It belonged sometime to St. Cleere; alienated to Dowrish, and now to Northcot. Down St. Mary, or St. Mary's Down, which you please, was the land of Coll of Delbridge, in this county; but now hath seated himself in a fatter soil in Somerset. Chascomb and Ash, or Esse, were held by Mallet. Not far from Bremridge we receive a good large tribute from a riveret coming from Stockley-Luckham, in the parish of Cheriton-Fizpaine. Luck- ham was the seat of Sir Hugh de Luckham in the time of Edward I; now Arundel possesseth it. Poughill of his site, the land of Robert de Kingston, after of Carwythen. There are two other Stockleys; one called Pomeroy, from the ancient family of that name; the other hath the addition oi English. This English possessed it some descents : Sir Robert English under Edward III., a man of good worth and command in the French wars ; by the daughter and heir- ess of his son Robert, named Dionisia, it came to Sir Henry Champernon; now severed among divers persons: in the farm whereof is seated one of the ancient family of Bellew. Then passeth it Uptons, or Uppeton, which hath by his adjunct a kind remembrance of his old Lord Helion, and so called Upton-Hellions. This family was of great estate in the time of Richard CcEur de Lion and at the conquest ; Sir Herveyus de Helion and his posterity ; until an heir female brought it to Dowrish, who bestowed some part thereof, and of Stockley English, and Halsbery, with his daughter, to Snytishill, (now, as I think, Snedhal,) who ahenated it to Carew; whose son, the noble Earl of Totnes, passed it to Young. 120 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [RoOK II, Then Greedy takes on him more strength, and begins to nominate places. And first gives his name to a farm house, which hath since adjoined there- unto Widger, the ancient possessor's name, and therewith commonly term- ed Greedy- Widger; whereof Sir John Widger wrote himself in the reign of Edward I.; since which time it hath had variety of possessors; but now resteth in the possession of a branch of the stock of Reynel of Malston. In his course he passeth the more joyfully for that he seeth so foul a name decked with so fair an house, Foulford,* where Sir William Periam, knight, Lord Ghief Baron of the Exchequer, in the time of Queen Ehzabeth, erect- ed, of a mean habitation, a beautiful and fair house. His zeal in true reh- gion and unspotted integrity in that judicial seat, gained him a due respect of all men, as well as his deep knowledge in the laws; whereby true honour kept him company even to his grave; and returned not (as with many,) with the heralds, by whom he was (according to his degree) laudably inter- red, but will sit over his hearse as long as his monument or memory continues. GHAPTER VII. Of Crediton, and the Bishops thereof. But now our river thinks somewhat better of himself, and gives his / name to his chief son, a borough, a market town, yea more, a bishop's see, / Greedy-town, or the town upon Greedy; which may be said to be two •^ towns, or rather one made of two joined, yet distinguished by the names of the east and west towns — ^the bishop's see and the borough. The Satur- day market being always (two or three days excepted,) kept in the borough, or the western town. It is sited seven miles from Exeter, and was the cathedral church of ^ the bishops divers ages; and the fairest, in his chief state, of thirteen palaces, and richest demesnes : for here he was said to * Commonly called Little Fulford. Foleford, or Voleford, was long the seat of the Dirwyn family. Jane, relict of Robert Dirwyn, made her will on 2nd December, 1391, which was proved 5th April, 1415. Bishop Stafford had licensed an oratory for the family, 29th September, 1413.— Reg. vol. 1, fol. 185.— G. O.,— P. J. Chap. VII.] view of Devonshire. 121 have three fairs ; a fair palace to inhabit in ; a fair park to sport in ; and a fair demesne to walk, thrive, feed, and keep hospitality in. The whole manor and hundred, with the royalty thereof, to which it gives name, and contains five parishes, valued anciently at 1000 marks annuatim, and \vith the sheaf it is little less worth now, you may be well assured. But they are now separated : for a bountiful (that I say, not wasteful,) bishop think- ing it to be too much to be left to his successors, alienated it ; yet was it again recovered, and then again so assuredly reconveyed, that, though proof hath been made, yet it is thought passed aU hope of recovery; and is now the inheritance of Sir Robert Kilhgrew, knight, vice chamberlain to the queen's majesty; and the sheaf in the corporators of Crediton. They keep three fairs; one the third of May, another the feast of St. Lawrence, and the third holy-cross day in September. Their market for kersies hath been very great, especially of the finer sort; (and before the perpetuanos were wrought;) for the aptness and di- ligent industry of the inhabitants (for making such cloth,) did purchase it a supereminent name above all other towns, whereby grew this common pro- verb — as fine as Kirton spinning; (for we briefly call it Kirton;) which spinning was very fine indeed: which to express the better to gain your beUef, it is very true that 140 threads of woollen yarn spun in that town were drawn together through the eye of a tailor's needle; which needle and threads were, for many years together, to be seen in Wathng-street in London, in the shop of one Mr. Dunscombe, at the sign of the golden bottle. The soil is very fertile both for corn and pasture, insomuch as it is grown to a general proverb throughout the whole kingdom — as good hay as any in Denshire ; and here in the country — as good hay as any in Kir- ton; and there — as good as any in my lord's meadow, than which there can be no better; for, considering the quantity of the field, it is a rich plot of land. The bishops of Crediton. — I have told you how the whole body of this county was under the bishop of Tawton; which upon the death of Putta, the last bishop thereof, Eadelphus was installed at Crediton, and taken for the first bishop thereof and named Bishop of Crediton. He was brother to Alpsius, Duke of Devon ; he kept the seat twenty-two years, and was bu- ried in his own church. 122 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [ BoOK II. ^thelgarus was second, who lived here but two years, and was here buried. In his time King Athelstan separated the Britons from the Saxons by making the river Tamar the boundary of either shire, and new-builded monastery of St. Peter's in Exeter. The next was Algarus, who, having continued ten years, rested there in his own church. The fourth, Alfwoldus, in the time of Dunstan. He was, after sixteen years, buried in his own church. Odogarus, Earl of Devon, in his time builded the abbey of Tavistock. Alwolfas succeeded him; and after he had ruled this see nine years was here interred. The next, and sixth, was Alphredus, who was translated hither from Malmesbury, where he was abbot. In this man's time the Danes burned the abbey of Tavistock, and besieged Exeter. He kept the seat nine years, and was here buried. Sydemanus was the seventh, who, after twelve years, was here buried ; in which time the Danes burned Bodmin in Cornwall, wdth the cathedral church of St. Petrock and the bishop's house there; whereupon the bishop's see was removed thence to St. Germans. (Hooker's catal. of bishops of Exeter.) The eighth was Alwolphus, who continued fifteen years, and was buried here A. D. 1054. In his time Sweno, the Dane, took the city of Exeter, and burned both cathedral church and city, leaving it almost desolate. Next Alnoldus, who, after fifteen years, was here buried. Levigus, or Levingus, was translated hither from the abbey of Tavistock and consecrated bishop. He was nephew to Brythewaldus, bishop of Corn- wall. He obtained to have the bishopric of Cornwall, which had continued some hundred and twenty years, incorporated after his uncle's death, (such was his favour with King Canutus,) as an augmentation to Crediton; which hath continued ever since together united. But Levingus staid here but fifteen years, and removed to Worcester, where he died. Leofricus was here also consecrated, who was so highly in favour with King Edward the confessor, that he removed his see to Exeter, where it now is; and where we will farther attend and wait on his lordship when we come (in our intended journey,) there: for age, and the sharp teeth of time, (and want of reparation,) hath so deeply entered into this palace, that Chap. VII.] view of Devonshire. 123 it is almost utterly demolished, showing only a poor remainder yet living (if I may so say of him that is in a desperate apoplexy,) as relics to poste- rity, to admire the strength, magnificence, beauty, and magnitude it some- time had. This town had also another augmentation of honour as being the birth- place of St. Winifred, the apostle of the Bavarians, Hessians, Frisians, Sax- ons, and Thuringers; for he was born at Crediton, which was a college for twelve prebendaries, which are now vanished. This man being present at the national council, holden at London, under Britwaldus, Archbishop of Canterbury, he obtained letters from him, and Daniel, bishop of Winches, ter, unto Pope Gregory II., who kindly received him, and soon perceived that, for his learning, excellency of memory, integrity of life, and vivacity of spirit, he was fit for great employments, and therefore, naming him Bo- niface, sent him into Germany to those said nations, consecrating him Bishop of Mogunce; [Mentz;] of whom he converted many to the faith of Christ, and wrote divers books, as Bale, in his centuries, recordeth. In fine, being earnest against heathen superstition, he was slain with fifty-four more of his disciples that were his associates, by the river Bour, A. D. 755, ^t. 60. WHhbaldus was nephew to this St. Winifred, a man of generous family, and here also bom; whose acute wit, memory, and facundity of speech, with other good parts, were much admired. When he was grown of suflS- cient age he travelled to see his uncle, and was made Bishop of Eichstadt, where he was buried; leaving divers books of his penning. It hath a fair church well worth our view, wherein these monuments and armories were to be seen. — On a large fair stone in the choir was the picture of "a bishop, inlaid in brass, with escutcheons ; but all is now taken away, with the epitaph also, which was thus rhymed, — " Sis testis, Christe, quod iion jacet hie lapis iste Corpus ut ornetur, sed spiritus ut memoretur. Quisquis eris, qui transieris, sta, peilege, plora ; Sum quod eris, fucramque quod es; pro me, precor, ora." When I see the dead thus wronged, by defacing of their monuments and memory, I cannot forbear to shed tears with Heraclitus; but when I see it done even by those which think, by the like monuments, to eternize their 124 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK II. own memorv, I cannot but smile with Democritus, and with a late worthy poet, under his name, say, — " I laugh to see how fortune, like a ball, Plays with the globe of this inconstant all : How she disgraceth these, and graceth those ; How, whom she lifts up, down again she throws. Noting their old guise, I laugh at all their new: I laugh at more, but dare not tell it you." There is another more fair monument (of alabaster,) of a knight clad in his armour, with his lady lying by him ; at his feet, a Hon ; at her's, a lamb . It is said to be the interment of Johannes de SuUey, or Silly, and that it had sometime such an inscription — " Dominus Johannes de Sully." He was Baron of Torrington in the time of Edward III. : his seat at Rooks- ford, lately the land of Chichester, andahenated to Davie. His arms in the window, by his tomb, viz, — Arg. three chevrons gul. Also, erm. three chevrons gul. There is also a worthy memorial of Sir William Periam, knight. Lord Chief Baron of the Exchequer, beautified with his armouries and his son's-in-law, which are as folio weth : — Periam. — Quartering, gu. a chev. ingrailed between three leopard's faces, or. Arg., a chevron between three pears, gul. [Query, if not meant for Calmady. — Az., a chevron between three pears slipt'd, or.] Pehiam. — Arg., two bars under between three hones, sab. Hone. — The 4th as the 1st. Periam impaling Hol- coT, — Lozengy, or and gul. Periam impaled with Parker. — Sab., a buck's face cabossed between two flaunches, arg. Periam impaled with Bacon. — Gu. on a chief arg., two mullets, sab. Pole. — Azure, semee de-lis, or, a lion rampant, argent, impaled with Periam. Basset. — Barry wavy of six or and gul., impaled with Periam. Pointz. — Sab. a chev. between three plates, arg, charged with pales gu, (qy.,) impaled with Periam. Williams. — Ar, a grey- hound current between three daws, two and one, sable; a border engrailed gules, charged with bezants and crosses patee, or, placed alternately, impaled with Periam. There is his true representation in his robes, with this inscription, — " Dormit, non est mortuus ;" Chap. VII.] view of Devonshire. 125 and with this epitaph, — " Here lieth the body of Sir William Periam, knight, who, A. D. 1579, was made one of the Justices of the Court of Common Pleas ; aud from thence, A. D. 1592, was called to be Lord Chief Baron of the Exchequer. He married, first, Margery, daughter and heir of John Holcot, of Berks, esq., the widow of Richard Hutchinson, of Yorkshire, esq.; secondly, Anna, daughter of John Parker, of Devon, esq.; lastly, Elizabeth, daughter of Sir Nicholas Bacon, knight. Lord Keeper of the Great Seal. He had only issue by the second wife, four daughters aud heirs, viz.: — Mary, the eldest, married to Sir William Pole, of Devon, knight; Elizabeth, the second, married unto Sir Robert Basset, of Devon, knight ; Jane, the third, first married to Thomas Pointz, esq., son and heir to Sir Gabriel Pointz, of Essex, knight, afterwards to Thomas Docura, of Herts, esq.; Ann, the youngest, married to William Williams, esq., son and heir to Sir John Williams, of Dorset, knight. All which his daughters and heirs have issue, now living, by their several husbands. He died the 9th of October, 1605, in the 70lh year of his age, much and worthily reverenced for his religious zeal, integrity, and profound knowledge in the laws of this realm." Near unto it, upon a plain stone, under which lie two of the Northcots, uncle and cousin, are these verses, — " Edmund and Edward Northcot I entomb, Uncle and cousin, in my sacred womb ; One April entomb'd both : — this did decay In his years, April; that in second May." In the windows were these armories, — Brentingham. — Sable, a fess imbat. between three Catherine wheels, or. Stafford. — Or, a chev. gules, on a border azure, eight mitres, or. Lacy. — Azure, three shovellers' heads erazed, argent. Grandisson. — Paly of six, argent and azure, on a bend, gules, a bishop's mitre between two eaglets, or. Booth. — Argent, three boars' heads erazed, erect, sable, a label of three points, gules. AH these were bishops of Exeter, and were set in divers places in this church. Besides these, are — England and France semiquartercd. Courtenay. — Or, three torteauxes, a file of three labels, azure. Courtenay. — Or, three torteauxes, the file charged with nine plates. Courtenay. — Or, three torteauxes, on the file nine mullets argent. Courtenay. — Or, three torteauxes, the file charged with nine annulets. Courtenay — Or, three torteauxes. Courtenay. — Or, three torteauxes, a file of three, azure, impaled with Bohun. — Azure, a bend, argent, cotized between R 126 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK II. six lions rampant, or. Argent, two chevrons, gules, between three torteauxes. Argent, a chevron, sable, between three roses, gules. Argent, a chevron between three hurts. Gules, on a bar between three birds, argent, an annulet of the first. BoDRUGAK. — Argent, three bends, gules. Trobridge. — Argent, a bridge of three piers, with a fane, gules, on a point under, argent and azure. Davie. — Azure, three cinque-foils on a chief, or, a lion passant, sable, impaled with SoUTHCOTE. — Argent, a chevron, gules, between three coots, sable. Another kind of impaling of Mr. Gale, that had two wives, thus set,— Gale. — Azure, a fess, argent, fretty of the field. Yard. — Argent, a chevron, gules, between three water-bougets, sable. White. — In bust, gules, a chevron between three roses, argent. Some, yea, many other, have been there to be seen, which either time or envy hath wrecked, and so not now discernible. In this parish I should visit divers places of note, and hamlets, and tith- ings, but it would be tedious and perchance yield neither profit nor pleasure to your content : yet I may not pass Spencer's-Comb, now abbreviated Spence-Comb; the seat anciently of the Spencers of this country, who lived here in great estate and reputation; as may appear by the last male of the house. Sir Robert Spencer, who married Eleanor, eldest daughter to Edmund Beaufort, Earl of Moriton in Normandy, Lord of Cirke and Circkland in the Marshes of Wales, Marquis Dorset, and Duke of Somerset ; for such were his titles and dignities in the time of King Henry VIII., for in him he put his chief confidence. By her he had two co-heirs; the eldest, Katherine, married to Henry Lord Percie, Poinings, Fitzpain, and Bryan, and fifth Earl of Northumberland ; Margaret, the second, was wife to Thomas Gary of Chilton- Fohot, second son to Sir William Gary of Gockington, knight, by a daughter of Sir Baldwin Fulford, of whom is the Baron of Hunsdon, Viscount Rochefort, and Earl of Dover, and the Lord of Lepington, Earl of Monmouth; with many other honourable personages. It was lately the inheritance of Prideaux, now dismembered. Divers other generous tribes would be remembered, as Davie of Greedy; he married Stroud and Hele ; his father, Southcote : Gale likewise, who married Furse; his father, Marbury. There are others that are far out of our way, and we shall hardly have the leisure to visit them; as Dunscombe, WiA'el, and others. Chap. VIII.] view of devonshike. i"' CHAPTER VIII. Of the farther progress of the River Greedy, and the places adjacent. Now are we clear of the town of Crediton ; we will follow our river which gives name to a farm house, which yielded the same again to a ge- nerous family, whereof was Johannes de Cridie in Edward II. 's age; after of Bidwel, and Denis, now of Prydham. And as we pass to Newton St. Cyres it receives Fordton water, a pretty bourn that cometh from Hitslegh, where Furse, an ancient name as you shall understand elsewhere, and is increased from Horwel, the most ancient inheritance of the race of Cole- brook; now and long time possessed by Prye. who married Corington ; his father, Slader; his grandfather, Trigamus, GifFard, Trobridge, and Westcote. Then meets it another coming from Copleston, the ancient seat of the great Coplestone. (For so they were termed, and rightly might both for command and estate.) Whence the name should be first derived divers have diversely conjectured; but most yield to this, — at a quartre voies, which we term a cross-way, where four ways meet, near the house there is erected a fair square stone some feet high, and inches in every square, which is termed Copston Stone, whence Cople-stone, or Le-cop-stone. It is a family of high esteem and long continuance, and hath spread his branches fruitfully and largely; yet find I none of them dignified with the honour of knighthood ; contenting themselves, as I suppose, with an here- ditary title of honour, (given to theiB only in this country,) which we tei'm white- spur ; an attribute of honour, now almost worn out of use; yet so is he to this day named, Coplestone the white-spur ; of which title of pre- eminence you may be elsewhere by some better informed : yet this will I tell you ere we part, there be that make four degrees of esquires, and some five ; this is then the fourth and hereditaiy rank. A gentleman of desert, to whom the sovereign intends to give this title, at the time of his creation, leaving other ceremonies, he gives him a silver collar or chain of S.S.S. : and silver spurs; whence in these parts they are called white-spurs; and so distin- guished from knights which wear gilt spurs: and have this prerogative of knights, that they leave this honour descending by inheritance to their heirs, for the right of primogeniture in lineal descent is accompanied with it in perpetuity. The last married Chichester ; John, the father, with Pollard ; 128 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK II. Christopher, Courtenav and Paulet ; his father, St. Leg-er; and was, as I have said, termed the Great Coplestone: and so he might for estate, he heing rated on the subsidy book, 13th Henry VI., 100£. in terris. These two riverets joining together change their name, and are called Yew and denominate Yewton; which, in the time of Henry III., Johannes de Um- fravile possessed ; after him Arundle: and now the generous family of North- cot; which, with Hayne in Ne-n^'on, sometime the land of Drew, enables him to be a good freeholder. He married Rouse and Pollard; his father, Dowrish; his grandfather. Hill ; his son, the heir of Halswel. These and other his de- mesnes enable the present possessor to hospitahty, which he liberally and with affability gives to those that visit him. Sir Arthur Northcot, his son, married Elizabeth, the daughter and heir of James Welsh of Alverdiscot in Devon, by whom he had issue John, who married Alice Leigh ; and Arthur, who married Margaret Gay : they both died without issue. Secondly he married Elizabeth, the eldest daughter of Sir Francis Godolphin of Cornwall, by whom he had issue Sir Francis ; w^ho, by Anne, daughter of Sir Chichester Wrey of Trebeigh, Cornwall, hath issue. I have found Sir Walter de Forneaux, and after him Sir Matthew, both knights, and the last sheriff in the 4th Edward I., who wrote themselves of Hughton : whether tliis be the same I cannot aver. Yew enjoyeth the name not long, for coming to Fordton-Bridge they name it Foreton- Water, where it sees Trobridge : house and possessor of one and the self-same name. Peter de Trobridge held it under Edward I. This man married Champnys ; his father, Dunscomb and Dowrish ; his grandfather, Bodley. In his passage our river takes in a lill from Tedborn, ahas Tettebom, with the adjunct St. Mary. Thomas de Tetteborn held it, together with Oldridge near it, in the reign of Henry III.; now, as I think. Basset. In this httle church I found a monument with a large epitaph, well worth the transcribing, being the sighs and sobs of a loving husband for his dear wife; so I think it, and so you will find it. — An epitaph by Edward Gee, parson of this church, upon the death of his dear wife, Jane Gee, who deceased the 21st of Februaiy, 1613. — O that in Hymenaeus' books Scarce two years had we lived in bliss, I ne'er had been enrolled : But death took Jane away ; O worth, alas ! my light, my Jane, Envious death ! woe worth my light. Lies here yclad in mould. My Jane lies here in clay. Chap. VIII.] VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. 1-29 Here, Jane, thou liest, to whom Admetus' wife unequal was ; In faithfulness Penelope Thou diddest far surpass. Never was woman to her spouse, Or to her imps, more kind ; A more godly and a modest one Than thee no man could find. Therefore, O happy soul, in peace Eternally remain, In heavens high, where thuu dost In blessed kingdom reign. Yet shall thy features, O my Jane, Out of my heart then slide. When beasts from fields, and fishes all Out of the sea, shall glide. Henceforth I will no more alight Upon a fair green tree ; But as a turtle which hath lost His dear mate, will I be. This brook united with Fordton, and Fordton with Greedy, We pass the two Dunscombes : one the seat of a generous race of the same name ; the other lately of Bodleigh ; from which name I may not pass without a due remembrance of three most worthy brothers of that famdy: (there were five, but two lived privately:) — the first, Sir Thomas, v/ho, employed in regal affairs, discharged them with great commendations, in the time of Queen Elizabeth, and erected for himself a famous, pious, and ever-living monument, and therefore needs not the inscribing of any epitaph; I intend that admirable university library at Oxford, furnished with a multitude (that I say not innumerable,) of choice books, both printed and manuscribed, with excessive charge and indefatigable pains, never sufficiently of me to be remembered and commended. The second was Lawrence Bodley, doctor of divinity, and canon resident of St. Peter's of Exeter, and incumbent of the parish of Shobrook, the place where he and my poor self were first nursed; who was greatly assistant to his brother's chargeable work, and gave a sufficient portion for a continual lecture in Exeter; whose pious zeal and continual assiduity in preaching cannot be overpraised. Sir Josias was the third ; a skilful and vahant leader in the Irish wars against Tyrone and Don John de AquUa. Of these I might enlarge and make a long enco- nium and yet not stray from Albinus' counsel, a valiant commander of the Britons, to the historians of his time offering to write his actions, — " Do that (quoth he) for those that are dead, whom you need neither flatter nor fear." The Greedy receives a good subsidy of the water Oldye that springeth at Gheriton, which hath not yet left the addition of his ancient possessor Fitz- pain, though now in coparcenary, between Harris and Hays; wherein is Stockly Luckham, where Sir John de Luckham, in elder times, inhabited; 130 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [ BoOK II. and after him Sir. John St. Amend, or de Sancto Amando; now the land of Arundell. Coddeford, which imparted his name to a family; but lately inhabited by Cruwys, and now by Gover. Uppecot, where in time passed lived a race of that name, afterwards the seat of the learned Judge Radford, whose violent untimely death, and by his godson, would require to be spoken of at large; after of Guy; then of a younger branch of the noble family of the Courtenays of Powderham ; by whose daughter and sole heir Moore now enjoys it. In the church are these armories, — In Edgcumbe's Isle: — CoPLESTON. — Argent, a chevron ingrailed gules, between three leopards' faces, azure, impaled with Huyshe. — Gules, fretty of six, and a canton, argent. Rame. — Sable, a ram's head cabossed, argent, attired or, impaled with Durnford. — Argent, a bend wavy, sable. Edgcomb. — Gules, on a bend ermine, cotized or, three boars' heads coiiped, argent, impaled with Rame. Bigbury. — Azure, an eagle displayed, or. In Prowse's Isle: — Prowse. — Argent, a bar, sable, between three ogresses. Sable, a chevron between three eagles' wings, under each a leg. Radford. — Sable, three man- tigers passant, argent. Sable, a chevron, argent, between three broad arrows, or, head and feathers argent, [qy., Floyer.] Argent, achevron, sable, between three barnacles proper, Courtenay, — Or, three torteauxes, a file of three labels, azure, each charged with three plates within the royal garter. Treasurer of St. Peter's, Exon, — Gules, a saltire ingrailed between four leopards' heads, or, im- ■ paled with Dinham. — Gules, four fusils in fess ermine. Fitzpain. — Argent, a pair of wings in lure, gules. Argent, on a bar, azure, between three stags' heads in chief, or, and three pheons in base, sable, a bishop's mitre of the third. So it passeth through Stockley, having addition of his ancient lord, Pomeroy, by him alienated to Amerideth, and by him to Davie. I find it to be some- time the possession of Robert de Stockhay; and in those times both names might be but one. Then comes it near CoUis- Combe, belonging sometime to a priory, after of Dennis, now Isack. Then it divides Shobrook parish in two parts, or rather Raddon and Shobrook ; for they were sometime two distinct parish- es ; (and at the union of churches, for want of sufficient maintenance in several, Raddon was joined to Shobrook;) which manors have had many changes of possessors in late years. Shobrook had Fitzstephen and Hac- Chap. IX.] view of Devonshire. 131 comb, Lerchdeacon, Courtenay, Vere, Carew, Periam, Basset; and now it resteth in Reynel. 'Tis vicissitude that maintains the world. It passeth near Pennicot, the inheritance of a generous family of Pointingdon. CHAPTER IX. Of the progress of the River Creedy to Cowley -Bridge, where it joins with Exe. Here Culver joins with Creedy, where the river leaves his name, and it was the habitation of a noted family of the same name, whereof I find Johannes de Creedy; of late years, Bidwel, Dennis, and now by alienation, Prydham. Creedy here seems to vaunt of the fruitful soil he passeth through, (which never proves ungrateful to the labourer for his pains, nor deceiveth the husbandman's hope of expected or wished encrease,) thinking it the richer for being bathed by his stream, and so it is found in- deed to be. So it comes to Newton, for distinction from other, having the adjunct of St. Cyres; in passed ages held by the prior of Plimton; now in copersignory between Northcot and Quick, both of them being there fairly seated : Northcot at Hayne, whose daughter and heir, Mary Drew, Walter Northcot married on 17th May, 1585. Below this place falls in the Jackmoor water, whose first spring is at Rad- don, alias Red-Down Top, taking name of the colour of the soil, for the earth turned with the plough shows a deeper red dye than any hill adjoining; and it is neither strange nor unusual that the tincture of the soil gives some ad- dition to the names of hills, places, rivers, seas, and lands : as in Lancashire, the Red-Bank; in Cheshire, the Red- Rock; in Hertfordshire, Black- Water; this noble island, Albion, ab albis rupibus; and between Egypt and the promised land of Canaan, the Red- Sea, which gave passage to the children of Israel ; and many other, over-many indeed to be particularly named, being so in most languages and countries. Raddon hath, with Shobrook, (in which parish it stands,) seen the variation and interchangablc vicissi- tude of many possessors: — John de Stockhay, John at Raddon, Martin Audleigh, Courtenay, Troutbeck, Hillary, Talbot, Dennis, and now the poor 132 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK II. seat of vour simple guide the author hereof, Thomas Westcote. On the height of the hill, which we call Raddon Top, was some time a large kind of forti- fication, now well near made even, by the plough, ^vith the other ground. There, in the fair walk of the length of a quarter of a mile, or more, in a clear day you may see the city of Exeter, the town of Crediton, and well near twenty parish churches besides. Then by Yendicot, which Philip de Yendecot held in time of Richard II., and after the change of many possessors it is held now by Tross; near it possesseth Stenson, ahas Stephenstown, long time the inheritance of Ash- ford; andbyBidwel, alias By-the-weU; anciently possessed by one of the same name, whose armories are quartered by Dennis and Gary; but the farm in Kyrkham's possession. At Marsh-House (so named of its site in Wet-marsh-land,) it falls into Greedy. This was the seat of Kirkham; after of Barnhouse, whose sole heir, married to Southcote, had two co-heirs, the one married to Ridgeway, of whom is Sir Thomas Ridgeway, knight, created by King James, Baronet, 25th November, 1612, and shortly after Earl of London-Derry ; the other to Su- Anthony Rouse, and from him to Northcot. Here our river (though in his greatest strength and fullness,) falls into a melancholy fit, and, as loath to be seen, creeps by the side of a high hiU, under two bridges near together, and sinks deep into the earth, and, at Gowley, desperately drowns herself in Exe, where is the seat of Skinner. Hence Gowley-Bridge, built of fair square stone, takes name ; where Exe musters gloriously, being bordered on each side with profitable mills, fat green marshes and meadows, (enamelled with a variety of golden spangles of fragrant flowers, and bordered with silver swans,) makes a deep show as if she would carry boats and barges home to the city ; but we are opposed by Exwick wear ; and indeed wears have much impaired his lustre and portable ability, which else might have brought his denominated city rich merchandise home to the very gates, which hath endured (to their great damage,) the want thereof many years : the occasion thus : — This river was navigable from Exmouth, where it falls into the sea, unto the city gate (being eight miles distant,) until the time of Baldvdn the 4th and Baldwin the 5th of that progeny Earls of Devon. After whose death Isabella (daughter of the first and sister and heir of the last,) married to WiUiam de Fortibus, Earl of Albemarle and Lord of Holderness, and of him Chap. IX.] vietw of Devonshire. 133 named Isabella de Fortibus, having the two manors of Exminster and Top- pish am, one on the east and the other on the west side of the river, erected certain wears thwart the river for the benefit of her mills, which to this day bear the name of Countess-wears, leaving yet between the wears a convenient length of thirty feet for barks and other such vessels to pass to and from the city. This was about the year of our salvation 1250: and thus it con- tinued unto the time of Hugh the second of that name. Earl of Devon, about the year 1313; who, taking displeasure of the city, stopped the main current of the stream, to the great and continual detriment of the city. Edward, his grandson proceeded yet farther, and made two other wears, at St. James' and Lampreford, cross the river, building a quay or pier at his town of Toppisham, (three miles from the city,) for the landing of all mer- chandise, to the great gain of the inhabitants for portage and otherwise. There was no hope a long time to redress this inconvenience, until, in these later times, by an ingenious device, a new channel was cut and part of the river, by sluices, conveyed and kept for the more convenient and cheaper carriage of their wares from Exmouth . It is plentifully stored with fish, as trout, peal, dace, and pickerel, (in outlets and standing pools,) but especially salmon, which is highest priced, for that it is reputed to excel, in that kind, those in other rivers, being never out of season : but these fishes are of the less esteem by means of the great variety and abundance of delicate sea fish brought hither from the south and west parts of this shire and Cornwall; wherein no city in Great Britain may equal it: but hereof sufficiently hath been already spoken. This heavy sad discourse hath spent half the way between Cowley-Bridge and the city; and as it hath grieved the citizens, so it seems by your coun- tenance it hath saddened you also, which must not be so in any case : I will rather endeavour, by another pleasant tale of the place we are now come at, named Derwood, to pass the other half of the way, and bring you merry into the cit}' . This speaks the tradition : — One Dyrwood, Lord of the demesnes and manor ( I think) of Dyrwood, (some half mile forth of the north gate of the city,) a man given altogether to gluttony and riot, and, as the sequel shows, of no great discretion, and less careful of his estate, passed away most of his possessions, and in fine had nothing left but only this large and spacious demesne, which he also offered to sell, and to have nothing else for it but only his diet for one s 134 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [ BoOK II. whole year, but it must be of choice cheer; nothing else but the skins of roasted geese, which he called goose-veils. The agreement was made, and at the year's end he was to make dedi et concessi, which he denied to do, by making a question ( by some wiser man's advice,) whether they would swear he had eaten the skins of geese only, and none of ganders : and for that they would not swear that directly, he was cleared (as the tale saith,) of the bargain. But not long after he covenanted with the magistrates of the city to pass it unto them for as much money as he could bear, or for as many pieces of silver (which we now call old groats,) as would lie, one by one, in a lineal row, between Dyrwoodwell and the great conduit which stands in the umbril point of the city : he made choice of his burden of silver, which was paid him. But within a few years after he comes that way, having spent all and being in great want and penury, refreshed him- self with a draught of the water of the well, and with many sighs and sobs woefully cried out "O Dyrwood ! Dyrwood ! had I known thy water to be so sweet I would never have sold thee." I cannot aver this for a truth, neither perchance will you take it so ; but it is a tale of great age and often reported, and not unfit to give a caveat to young men, that they draw not hastily manors and farms through their throat, lest such morsels choke them; or lay them too heavily on their backs, and so break them. By this time are we come to Exbridge, where was sometime a ferry; but the citizens (as records speak) built this fair bridge, whereunto one Walter Gervais was a special and bountiful benefactor, giving all his rents and lands to the perpetual maintenance of the same ; and he and his wife were buried upon one of the piers thereof, whereon was erected a chapel; which being in these days alienated to a dwelling house, the monument was demolished, and no more memory of so charitable and liberal-minded man left to pos- terity but what I have here told you. Now you may be frohc, for though in this travelling discourse I have (as I doubt) tired your utmost patience by guiding you, as the poet sung, — " By the hills, by the dales, By the deserts, and the vales," yet have I now found fit opportunity to give refreshment to your bodies, and to recreate and exhilarate your spirits, by conducting you into this plea- sant little city of Exeter, of which we have so often made mention, and is Chap, X.] view of Devonshire. 135 now in our view : we are at the gate, here you cannot fail of kind entertain- ment, bountiful cheer, good discourse, variety of pleasing objects ; the sight of some, and the hearing, if you please, of learned sermons; but if your expectation be frustrated and I fail of my liberal promise, let the imputation charge me, (though I do my best, and therefore deserve to be excused,) and essoine the rev. clergy, worthy magistrates, and kind gentlemen and citizens, who can and will amend it at some other time, when they please. And here is a convenient place for me to crave pardon of the noble knights and learned gentry of this province, if I have moved their spleen by my presumptuous undertaking to entertain and conduct you through this shire, (the unablest of a multitude,) that, having posse-comitatus, could have done it more directly and ordered your journey by a straighter mea- sure, pleasanter ways, abbreviating the tedious length thereof with ele- ganter discourses, larger histories, interlaced with fairer conceits, showing more ancient descents, pregnant with variety of antiquities and multiplicity of old and new armouries, with choice of selected epitaphs, with a much more full copy and exact register of the worthies of all degrees and quali- ties of this county; with a more perfect exemplification and ample relation of their famous actions : all of which you may expect of them hereafter. For when I saw them all straining courtesy at the present, who should begin, (having ever loved good fellowship, and to be accounted rather for- ward than froward,) began to lead the measure, and have plainly guided you thus far in your journey; wherein, if I have casually erred upon relation of others, or in my own imbecility and misunderstanding, ( humanum est errare,) I will only alledge the apology of the worthy and ancient poet Lu- cretius, for the like cause: — "Avia Pieridum peragro loca, nullius ante trita solo." I tread a pathless way and seek it out Where yet no former muse hath set her foot. CHAPTER X. / / Of the Antiquity and divers Names of the City of Exeter. This fair city, now the object of sight, is the emporium of the western parts; very pleasantly seated on a hill (gently arising among other hills,) X 136 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE [BoOK II. with an easy ascent, and therefore anciently called Pen-Cair, also Penhalt-Cair, the head or chief city. It declines towards the west and north parts after such a manner, that be the streets never so foul, yet with one shower of rain they are presently cleansed and made sweet; as is sung of Hierusalem, — " For one fair flood doth send abroad His pleasant streams apace, To fresh the city of our God And wash his holy place." That it hath been also anciently called Corinia, or Corinea, is very apparent; but that it had denomination from Corineus the Trojan, who, for his valour, was, presently after his arrival with Brutus into this land, first created Duke of this province and Cornwall, I cannot aver; I have it not upon so sound a warrant as I dare trust, for Cicester was also, by Ptolemy, called Cori- neum, yet no man will believe from Corineus, It is of great antiquity, far beyond the opinion of some, who think it in rerum natura, at most but an embryo in the time that Claudius, the Roman Emperor, sent hither Vespasian, A. D. 49. For it is manifestly apparent by many, and those authentic writers, that King Arv'iragus, the commander of Britain, wilhng to preserve the freedom of the nation, and repining to be subject to the Romans, (so far remote,) and longer to suffer their domi- neering, under so heavy a yoke of subjection and tribute so great, which held the same. Whereupon Vespasian, dux exercituum Romanorum, was sent hither from Claudius the Emperor to receive the tribute, or conquer and subdue the whole land. His first landing was at Porta Rutupii, now Richborough ; but being there strongly resisted, sailed into these west parts and landed in this county at Dodonesium, or Totonesium Littus, ( Totnes or Torbay,) and marching into the inland country beleagured this city of Exeter, which Ar- viragus understanding, hasted hither with all possible speed, and encoun- tered the Roman duke; but after a long fight, neither party prevailing, a parley being by Genissa (wife of Arviragus and daughter of Claudius,) procured, a cessation of war was granted, and a loving league in short time concluded, and the tribute continued. The chronicle of the chm-ch delivers it after this manner: — " Vespasianus cum Romano exercitu, ci^atatem nunc vocatam Excester, Chap. X.] view of Devonshire. 137 octo obsedit diebus sed minime prsevaluit, Arvirago rege civibus auxilium prsestante." Geoffry of Monmouth speaks almost in the self-same words. Fabian, the author of Nova Chronica de Gestis Anglorum, and Matthew of Westminster have delivered it in the self-same sense, though much amplified in words. The Roman writers differ somewhat from these, in computation of times ; supposing Arviragus, the second son of KimbeHne, not to reign in the time of Claudius, but some thirty-six years after his death, in the time of the Emperor Domitian. But you may not think that I intend to maintain this city in. its infancy or tender years to be such as now it is, for I am otherwise taught by Csesar, who, to- express how he found it at his arrival here, writes thus : — " The Britons call some thick woods, that they have enclosed and fortified vnth rampire and dike, a town; which they make for places of strength, retreat, and refuge, to avoid the incursions of the enemy and borderers." And Strabo saith, "woods are to the Britons as towns and cities; for when they have, by felling down of trees, fenced, paHsaded, or barricaded, rather a round spacious plot of ground, there they build, for habitation and retreat, halls and cottages." Such, perchance, might this be at first, and thereof to take name, as Pen-cair-hul-goit, or Cair-pen-hul-goit, which signifieth the chief town in the wood; for so the ancient Britons termed it. Also, Pen-halt-cair, the chief or head town on the hUl; as it is to be seen in a traverse between the bishop, dean, and chapter of the one party, and the commonalty of the same of the other, in a long and tedious suit concerning their Uberties: for that I cannot understand that it is yet clearly ended, but that there is a remainder of some stomaching even to this age. Our neighbours, the Cornishmen, in their (now almost extinct) language, call it Pencair, the head or chief city; and Cair-Uske, the city of Uske, or Exe; as taking name from the river; and Cair-Ruthe, the red city; or si- tuate on red earth or lull, as indeed it is. It was also written Exancester: with the ancient British names it continued many years, until the Romans' arrival, who gave it the addition of Augusta; for so Humphry Lloyd, in his Breviary of Britain, termeth it. And it appears apparently to be the same ( all opposition notwithstanding,) that Ptolemy names, in his Cosmography, Isca, et Legio Augusta Secunda, of the second legion residing here. And Antoninus, Isca Danmoniorum. The addition of Augusta I take to be but an attribute of augmentation of honour, full of J 38 VIEW OP nEVONSHIRE. [BoOK II. majesty and eminency; and was, by the Romans, given to great and flour- ishing cities, as London, &c.: for Dio saith of the Emperor Octavius that he was named Augustus, as one most royal and majestical in the chiefest degiee, even above the nature of man; and so, after him, things sacred, excellent, and of high estimation, were titled Augusta: which title being added to this city showed it was then so, or they hoped it would be, or wished it should be; and so now it is. The next conquerors were the Saxons and their associates, who, for the honour of their victories and intention to perpetuate their habitation here, and language withal, altered the names of many towns, castles, and ma- nors; and this city, with the rest, was new-named Munckton, for that it seemed to them to be inhabited by monks and no other people; such store there were here in those days: as Newcastle-upon-Tyne was also called Munckchester, the monks' city. It held this name until King Althestan (some 300 years after,) came hither to subdue the rebellious Britons; and confining them beyond the river Tamar, encircled this city with a fair strong high turreted wall of squared stones ; which formerly was, perchancCj but immured with earthen walls and palisadoes; and new named it (or rather restored it the ancient name) Exeterra, or Esse-terra; Exeter, or the city situate upon the river Exe: as Polydore writeth, " Est Exonia urbs Devo- nise comitatus, loco praecelso ad occidentem versus posita; abluiturque flu- mine Exea a quo nomen habet. CHAPTER XI. Of the Situation and Places worthy observation in this City. This city is seated in a salubrious air, exceeding pleasantly for the in- habitants, and commodiously likewise for the whole country for their con- venient assemblies. For though I cannot say it stands equally in the midst thereof, as the yolk in the egg, or centre in a circle, yet opportunely and convenable for the farthest remoted, in a day's travel, for general meetings. It stands on a hill among many, the whole country being mountainous and Chap. XL] view of Devonshire. 139 fiill of little hills about it; towards the sea, at the mouth of Exe, only ex- cepted. In form, rather circular than square; and in circumference near 1600 paces, (allowing five feet to the pace,) which is somewhat above a mile and half : and though it be highly placed, yet is it well supphed with water both in itself and neighbouring springs conveyed in leaden pipes. The four principal streets are from the four great gates, which take name from the four quarters of the heavens, west, east, north, and south, and meet in the umbril of the city, where standeth a great water- conduit, and the place called Carfoix, which I think more properly Quatrevois ; and di- vides the whole into four quarters, or several parts. In the north-east, in the most high and eminent part thereof, (as com- manding the whole,) stands I may yet say so, an old ruinous castle called Rugemount, whose gaping chinks and aged countenance presageth a down- fall ere long; yet hath it not any occasion to complain either of battery, undermining, or fire, but rather of age, storms, and neglect. (The ruin of most edifices.) ^\nience it takes name is questioned as doubtful, unless of the redness of the soil whereon it is seated, or of the like colour of the stone wherewith it is built: (as is formerly said of the whole city:) neither is the first foun- der known, but supposed to be the structure of Julius Caesar, or some em- peror his successor, or their deputies, when they lorded here; which is avouched confidently by John Lidgate in his Sei-pent of Division, where he saith, that Julius Csesar built in this land divers castles and cities for the remembrance and perpetuity of his name, as the castle of Rochester, Can- terbury, and one not far from Dover, with the most ancient part of the tower of London. The castle or town of Csesar's-Bury, now Sarum or Sa- lisbury; re-edifying also Caesar's- Chester, or Chichester, and the castle of Exeter: and upon this word, re-edifying, some will have it more ancient: but the books of accompt being lost, no man can certainly guess at the pay- master or time. And although it be strongly opposed, I cannot but think that a Roman legion was here settled ; and that this Isca Danmoniorum (or Danmonio- rum- Augusta, rather, as Ptolemy and Antoninus,) as of the second legion Augusta here residing. But Mr. Camden, whose authority is greater than to be opposed, will have it to be at Isca Silurum, Cair-Leon, or Uske, in Monmouthshire ; which he conjectureth, and the rather affirmeth, by the 140 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK II. finding of a certain image of Diana with other such tables and altars ; nei- ther of which can I produce for our Iska. But some eight years since two or three labourers, making a dike to fence a plot of ground, a small way distant from the castle, where no dike was in former times, they found cer- tain bricks three feet deep in the ground, and under them a httle pot of the same matter wherein were divers pieces of Roman coins, both silver and gold ; the youngest of them was of Antoninus Pius, and could prescribe for antiquity 1500 years, whereof thirty came to my hands, most of them of divers stamp and fair, which I intended to have exhibited to your view, for the better illustration and clearer manifestation of this matter, had they been now in my custody, with divers other found not far off that place. Somewhat nearer the castle, about the same time, there was found in a garden a fair ring, in which was a beautiful stone set and thereon engraven the true idea of Cleopatra with the asp at her breast. I was desirous to have seen those bricks found with the coin, which I suppose, in regard of the largeness, were rather altars than common bricks, but the poor fellows were so greedy for the money, that they neglected them, that they never came to sight. But to turn back and seek the founder of our castle. There be that suppose it to be the work of the Saxons in the heptarchy of this land, for then some West Saxon king might make this city his royal chamber, and fortify the castle for his better security against the un- tameable Britons. To those that pretend a right therein to the Danes I must answer, it is of all other the most unprobable and unlikely; for they won this city twice, and with their destroying feet trampled on the beauty thereof, and religi- ous houses therein, and after consumed it with fire ; for those unchristian heathen hated the religion as much as the people, and dealt with it as the Chaldeans did with Hierusalem, of whom it said, — " The cruel words of Edom's sons, When, as with one accord, They cried on, sack, and raze those walls, In despite of the Lord." In this castle the chiefest princes and rulers of this province made their ha- bitation, the last of whom were the Hollands, Dukes of Exeter ; and Henry, the last of them, that lived in it. The amplitude and beauty thereof cannot Chap. XL] view of Devonshire. 141 be discerned by the ruins ; but for those davs it was of good strength, but now, as the poet said, — " Magnum nil nisi nomen hahet." Great only in name, And nothing else of fame. Nothing remaining to be seen but the bare walls. — The gate and tower adjoining it, and a ruinous chapel built by Isabella de Fortibus,* and by her endowed with the prebends of Hays and Cutton for continual prayer to be said; and a spacious hall and rooms newly re-edified for the judges at the assizes, the justices at the quarter sessions, and the shire clerk for his monthly courts. This is now much differing from what it hath been, as a body grown old and wasted with diseases and maims from one young, lusty, and healthful : too great a morsel for time suddenly to devour. Concerning the name of this Castle Rugemount, this tale is reported, — when Richard III. came into these parts for repressing some feared insur- rection supposed to be nourished in behalf of Henry Earl of Richmond, and to take some order for withstanding his landing in these western countries, he came to this city, and surveying the same and also the castle, he de- manded the name ; to whom was answered, Rugemont ; upon which reply, omining some sinister event, he hasted presently forth, doubting perchance the ruin of some wall, his conscience prompting him that he deserved some violent death or sharp punishment, (for he was held a very ill man, yet a good king,) which at last befell him, saying unto some that were near him, "that name presageth me no good, but evil." It may be some wizard or wise woman had told him (as the spirit raised by the witch of Endor told King Saul,) his destiny. But it befel him as to others in like case that give credit to such divina- tions. For a plain example thereof he might have read of one of his pre- decessors, Henry IV., to whom (as it is written,) it was directly told that he should end his life no where but in Hierusalem ; whereupon in his latter days he got together great treasure, under pretence that he intended to travel into the holy land for the recovery of that city, where it was appointed * This statement is incorrect : it was certainly founded a century and a half before that time. See Dugdale's Monasticon Anglicanum, vol. 6, page 54. G. O., — P. J. T 142 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK II. that he should end liis days ; but falling suddenly sick at Westminster, he was carried into a chamber of the abbot's, where lying, he demanded what name the chamber had : it was answered, Hierusalem : then the king, with a heavy deep sigh, said, "then here is an end of my intended voyage," and so shortly after died. So King Richard, fearing the Castle of Rugemont in Exeter, found it at Bosworth in Leicestershire, where he was slain by the Earl of Richmond. For as one saith, — " Thus Satan doth deceive us with equivocy That seek of him to know our destiny." Before we depart from tliis castle (now the ruins of time,) in regard it was the seat in this city of those that enjoyed the honour to be styled dukes, marquesses, or earls thereof, I think it most fit in this place to give you a catalogue of such nobles as have borne those titles, with their wives, chil- dren, and arms. CHAPTER XII. Of the Dukes, Marquises, and Earls of Exeter. Of Holland, Duke of Exeter. — Sir John Holland, knight, second son of Thomas Holland, Earl of Kent, and of his wife Joan, daughter to Edmund Plantagenet, surnamed of Woodstock, sixth son to Edward I., and heir to her two brothers, Edmund and John, both successively Earls of Kent, was created, m the 1 1th year of Richard II., Earl of Huntingdon ; and in the 21st year, Duke of Exeter; and upon the surrender of Aubry de Vere, Earl of Oxford, of the office of great chamberlain of England, had that office also by letters patent, bearing date the same year. He married Elizabeth, daughter of John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, and Blanch his wife; and had issue first, Richard that died young ; second, John his successor; third, Edward that died issueless ; Constance, first married to Thomas Mowbray, Duke of Norfolk, banished by Richard II., and after to Sir John Gray, Lord Gray of Ruthin. Chap. XII.] view of Devonshire. 143 This Duke, in the 1st year of Henry IV., was, by parhament, deposed from his dukedom, and after, in the same year, beheaded at Cicester. He bare the arms of Edward, King- and Confessor, with a label, and therewith impaled England with a bordure of France. Thomas Beaufort, son of John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, begotten on the Lady Katharine Swinford, his third wife, was created Earl of Perth, and Earl of Dorset, Lord Admiral of England, Captain of Calais, and Lord Chancellor of England the 12th of Henry IV.; and in the 4th of Henry VI., Duke of this city of Exeter. He had the leading at the battle of Agincourt, of the rereward; and the government of King Henry VI. committed to him during his minority. He married Margaret, daughter and heir of Sir Thomas Nevil of Hornby Castle, but sans issue. He died at his house at East- Greenwich in Kent, and was buried at St. Edmunsbury in Suffolk, leaving the king his heir. He bears France and England, a border, gobony arg. and azure. John Holland, son of John aforesaid, was Earl of Ivory in Normandy, Lord of Sparr, Lieutenant General of the Duchy of Aquitaine, Lord Admiral of England, Constable of the Tower of London, and A. D. 1443, created third Duke of Exeter at Windsor. He married, first, Ann, daughter of Edmund Earl of Stafford, by whom he had Henry his successor : his second wife was Ann, daughter of John Montacute, Earl of Salisbury, and by her had issue only a daughter named Ann; first married to John Lord NevU, son and heir of Ralph Nevil, second Earl of Westmorland, sans issue: she was re-married to Sir Thomas Nevil, uncle to her former husband, by whoin she had issue Ralph, the third Earl of Westmorland : and thirdly she mar- ried James Earl Douglas. This duke died the 26th of Henry VI., and was buried in St. Katharine's Church, near the Tower of London, by his two wives. He bears as his father before him, Henry Holland, only son of John, was the fourth Duke of Exeter, and Earl of Huntingdon. In the 1st year of Edward IV. he was, together with Henry Duke of Somerset, and Thomas Earl of Devonshire, disinherited by act of parliament; and in the 13th was found dead in the sea, between Dover and Calais : yet he had married the king's sister, Anne, daughter of Richard Duke of York, but had no issue. She was married secondly to Sir Thomas Saintleger, knight. His arms as his father's. Henry Courtenav, Baron of Okehampton, Earl of Devon, son of William 144 VIEW OF DEVOXSHIRE. [ BoOK II. Courtenay, Earl of Devon, and Katharine his wife, daughter of King Ed- ward IV., was created Marquis of Exeter the 18th of June, 1525. The 17th year of Henry VIII. he married, first, Elizabeth, daughter and heir of John Gray, Viscount Lisle, but without issue: secondly, he man-ied Ger- trude, daughter of WiUiam Blunt, Lord Mountjoy, and heir to her mother, daughter and heir to Sir William Say, knight, by whom he had issue Ed- ward Earl of Devon. This Lord Marquis was of no long continuance, for he was attainted and executed for high treason 31st December, 1538; soon after his wife, Gertrude, was attainted also, but not executed. He bear- eth France and England within a b ordure counter quartered of the one and other. Quartered with or, three torteauxes (Courtenay,) and or, a lion rampant, azure, armed and langued gu. Rivers. Sir Thomas Cecil, Baron Burlegh, after this dignity had lain silent from that age to the reign of King James, was honoured with the title of Earl of Exeter, by letters patent bearing date at Greenwich the 4th day of May, in the 3rd year of the king's reign. He was son to Sir William Cecil, Lord Burlegh, Lord High Treasurer of England, the Nestor of his age. He married to his first wife, Dorothy, daughter and one of the co-heirs of John Nevil, Lord Latimer, and had issue five sons and six daughters: — first, William Lord Burlegh; second. Sir Richard Cecil, knight; third. Sir Ed- ward Cecil, knight ; fourth, Thomas Cecil; fifth, Christopher Cecil, drown- ed in Germany : first, Lucy, married to WilMam Pawlet, Lord Marquis of Winchester; second, Mildred, married to Sir Thomas Read, knight, secondly to Sir Edmund Trafford, of Lancashire, knight; third, Mary was wife of Sir Edward Denny; fourth, Elizabeth, first vrife to Sir WiUiam Hatton, knight, after whose decease she was second wife to Sir Edward Coke, knight. Lord Chief Justice of the King's Bench and one of his Majesty's most ho- nourable Pri\'y Council; fifth, Dorothy was married \mto Sir Giles Ailing- ton, of Horse-Heath, knight; sixth, Frances, wife to Sir Nicholas Tufton, knight. This Earl married to his second wife, Frances, daughter of WiUiam Lord Chandos, the relict of Sir Thomas Smith, knight, and had by her only one daughter, Anna- Sophia, that died young. WUliam Lord Burlegh, son and heir, succeeded his father; who married to his first wife, Ehzabeth, the only daughter and heir of Edward Manners, Earl of Rutland and Lord Roos , by whom he had William, his son, com- Chap. XIII.] view of Devonshire. 14.5 monly called Lord Roos, vv^ho married Elizabeth, the daughter of Sir Tho- mas Lake, knight, principal secretary, and died sans issue. He married, secondly, Elizabeth, sister and co-heir to Sir Robert Drewry of Halsted, in the county of Suffolk, knight, and had issue by her Elizabeth, married to Sir Thomas Howard, (second son to Thomas Earl of Suffolk,) Knight of the Bath at the creation of Prince Charles, A. D. 1616; Diana, a second daughter; Ann, the third, married to the Lord Grey of Groby. He bear- eth barways of ten pieces, arg. and azure on six escutcheons, sab., as many lions ramp, of the first. CHAPTER XIII. Of the Monasteries and Aims-Houses belonging to the City of Exeter. Now, if you please, let us look and see with our eyes, and pity with our hearts, to see the pious devotion of our ancestors ruinated, their godly pur- poses being abused ; for here you may behold the carcases of four religious houses sequestered from worldly affairs and consecrated to prayer and reli- gious uses. The one a monastery of Black Friars, of whose founder we find no cer- tain record; but it is thought to be built about the 34th year of Henry III., and surrendered the 30th of Henry VIII. Then the Gray Friars, Franciscans, first founded in Irlesbury, now ge- nerally called Friern-hays, A. D. 1250; after removed thence without the south-gate of the city A. D. 1293. Another was the Hospital of St. John Baptist within the east-gate of the city, which was a priory of canons regular founded by two brethren, Gilbert and John Long, sons of John Long, merchants of the city; and at the surrender valued at £102. 12s. 9d. : after it was the land of Carew; and now lately purchased by a gentleman, and yet a merchant and the son of a merchant, and magistrate of the same city; with the first founders' pious intent to continue the name but alter the quality of the inhabitants; that the second dedication may equal, if not exceed, the first, making it an hos- 146 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK II. pital for poor, and education of orphans; if the hke envy which was in ^sop's cur, that would neither eat the hay himself, nor suffer the labouring ox to feed, hindereth not this hopeful purpose, and the perpetual benefit of the city. The fourth by the name of the Priory of St. Nicholas, for Benedictine Monks; being a cell to Battle Abbey in Sussex. This and the first (as I now find,) were erected by WUham the Conqueror, A. D. 1066; value at the surrender, — £147. 12s. Od. The 'vdew of these will give us cause to remember, and so to consider, how charitable and devout our predecessors were, (in the times termed blind and ignorant,) and so either move and persuade us to the Uke actions, or condemn us in our greater knowledge and lesser charity. But those former votaries and rectors, abusing the intent of their pious founders, accumulating treasure and purchasing manors, whereby pride and excess entered among them, whereby disdaining the laity, their first bene- factors, they laid themselves open to envy, which soon blasted their flowers and wholly subverted them, by plucking them up with the very roots. Of the alms-houses. — Now after the great vicissitude and alteration of these ancient religious strxictures, let us seek to find somewhat that may il- lustrate this latter age with the honour of charitable actions of some well- disposed people. Here may you see Grendon's alms-houses for poor old women, called the Ten Cells. Secondly, St. Ann's Chapel. Thirdly, Mary Magdalene's whereunto one Orange, a citizen was a great benefactor; who, being infes- ted with the leprosy, humbly accepted thereof, and leaving his own house, dwelt in this house among them. Then Wynard's and Hurst's alms-houses, also Gilbert's at Newton Bushel, which belongs also to this city, though it stands at that town's end. Of later erection : Davie's alms-houses, the struc- ture of a worthy magistrate and alderman of this city. I was writing the se- venth, for such one they report is in embryo, of whose birth there is pregnant hope if, not envy, but some Hebrew-like afifected woman, be midwife. To each of these aforenamed there is some yearly revenue belonging and weekly pay; and also an annual allowance for other some that have no houses. Then may you see the grammar-school for breeding of youth, of the foundation of the dean and chapter of the cathedral of St. Peter's of Exon, with a stipend of twenty pounds per annum. Chap. XIV.] view of Devonshire. H7 CHAPTER XIV. Of Bedford-House and the Noble Family of the Russells. Not far thence is Bedford-House, so called for that it is the seat of the Earl of Bedford in this city, and was formerly the Dominican Priory. And so being at this place, in regard his lordship hath two or three more mansion-houses in this country, and he Lord Lieutenant thereof, and of the city, this county doth challenge him as a native, and one of the chiefest ornaments and honours thereof. I have therefore emboldened myself to record his descent since they enjoyed the attribute of this honour. Sir John Russell, Knight of the noble order of the Garter, Controller of the household of King Henry VIII., son of James Russell, esq., and Alice his wife, daughter and heir of John Wise of Sydenham, by Tliomasin his wife, daughter of Sir Baldwin Fulford, of Fulford, knight, was created Lord Russell A. D. 1538, Lord High Admiral of England, and Lord Privy Seal; and in the 3rd of King Edward VI. he was created Earl of Bedford, and died 14th March, 1554 — 5. He married Ann, daughter and sole heir of Sir Guy Sapcotts, knight, the relict of Sir John Broughton, of Tudding- ton m the county of Bedford, knight, and by her had issue an only son, Francis. This Francis Lord Russell and Earl of Bedford was Knight of the Garter and one of the Privy Council to Queen Elizabeth. He married, first, Margaret, daughter of Sir John St. John, knight, and sister to Oliver Lord St. John of Bletso, by whom he had four sons and three daughters. First, Edward Lord RusseU, that died issueless. Second, John Lord Russell, who married Elizabeth, daughter of Sir Anthony Cooke, knight, and widow of Sir Tho- mas Hoby, knight, by whom he had issue two daughters; first, Elizabeth, that died without issue; second, Ann, married to Henry Lord Herbert, son and heir of Edward Eai-1 of Worcester. Third, Francis Lord RusseU, (after his brother's death.) He married Juhan, daughter of Sir John Forster, knight, (Lord Warden of the middle marches against Scotland.) He was slain by the Scots at a day of truce in his father's life-time, having issue Edward, after Earl of Bedford. Fourth, Sir WilUam Russell, knight; cre- ated by King James Baron of Thornhaugh, at Hampton Court, 1603, Lord Deputy of Ireland. He took to wife Elizabeth, daughter and heir of Shen- 148 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK II. gay Long, of Chengie in the county of Cambridge, esq., and had issue Francis, now Earl of Bedford. Ann, the eldest daughter, was married to Ambrose Dudley, Earl of War- wick: Ehzabeth, the second, to William Earl of Bath: Margaret, the third, to George Lord Clifford, Earl of Cumberland. This earl married to his second wife Bridget, daughter of John Lord Hussey, the widow of Henry Manners, Earl of Rutland, but by her had no issue. He died full of honour and years, and much lamented, 28th July, 1585. Edward Lord Russell, grandchild to this last Earl Francis by his third son, Francis, slain as aforesaid ; was Earl of Bedford ; and married Lucy, daughter of John Lord Harrington of Exton, and sister and co-heir to John Lord Harrington of Exton, by whom he had no issue that lived. He died 3rd May, 1627. He bears as his father and grandsire: — arg., a Hon ramp., gu. armed and langued, azure, on a chief sab., three escalops of the field. Francis Lord Russell, son to William Lord Russell of Thomhaugh, youngest son to Earl Francis, succeeded his cousin Edward, and married Katharine, the sole daughter and heir of Giles Bridges, Lord Chandos, who died May 9th, 1641 . He left issue four sons. First, Wilham Lord Rus- sell, made Knight of the Bath at the coronation of King Charles II. Se- cond, Francis, who died unmarried. Third, John, a colonel in the late troubles on the king's part. Fourth, Edward. And four daughters. First, Katharine, married to Robert Lord Brook. Second, Ann, to George Earl of Bristol. Third, Margaret, to James Earl of Carlisle. And fourth, Diana, to Francis Lord Newport. Which WiUiam, so succeeding in his honours, was elected into the society of the most noble Order of the Garter A. D. 1672 : and by Ann, his wife, daughter and heir to Robert Earl of Somerset, hath had issue seven sons. — Francis Lord RusseU ; John who died in his infancy; William, who wed- ded Rachel, daughter and co-heir to Thomas late Earl of Southampton, (beheaded by King James II. for being found in a plot against the govern- ment;) Robert, James, and George: and three daughters. First, Diana, first married to Sir Grevil Verney, of Compton-Verney in the county of Warwick, Knight of the Bath; afterwards to William Lord Allington : Ann, who died young: and Margaret. Duga. Baronage, vol, 3. page 380. Which Wilham Earl of Bedford was created Duke of Bedford by King William III. 11th May, 1694. Chap, XV.] view of Devonshire. J149 CHAPTER XV. Of the Guildhall, Magistrates, and the several Corporations thereof. Then come we to see the fair guildhall in the most eminent place of the city and near the midst thereof, where the assizes, sessions, and weekly courts are kept by the mayor and bailiffs. It is freshly beautified with the arms of the mayors and recorders of the said city ; wherein they were much beholden to the sedulous endeavours and lucubrations of John Hooker, alias Vowel, gent., sometime chamberlain, who was a diligent and painful searcher of its antiquities : whose collections, imprisoned under a sure guard, if I could have set at liberty, would have saved me much labour. And here I shall blazon the arms as they are set down in Holhngshed's collections. Lib. 5, 112. [But as many of the shields have been altered since the time of HoUingshed, their order changed, and several new ones added, we think it advisable to give them as they now appear, marking the discrepancy. G. O., — P. J.] 1. Over the Mayor's seat, England and France quartered ; under which is the crown and double rose. On the right of the Mayor's seat 2. was the arms of the City of Exeter. — Party per pale, gules and sable, a castle triple tow- ered with a portcullis, or, now occupied by the arms of the Company of the Brewers. 3. Dennis. — Ermine, three Danes' axes erect, gules. 4. Moore, — Ermine, on a bend, sable, now a chevron azure, three cinque foils, or, 5, CoLSHULL. — Cheeky, or, and sable, on a chief, argent, five goutcs. 6. Hoker. — First, Vowell of Pembroke; or, a bar vairy, argent and sable, between two lions passant gardant, sable. Second, Hooker : gules, a fess engrailed argent charged with two fleur-de-lis, azure, between three cinque foils, or. Third, Bol- ter ; Ermine, now argent, in a chief, azure, charged with three bird bolts, argent. Fourth, Druell : sable, a chevron argent between three bunches of daisies, argent. Fifth, Kelly : argent a chevron gules, between three billets of the second. Sixth, qy. if meant for Comyns 1' gules, a chevron argent between three garbs, or. 7. Calwodely. — Azure, on a pair of wings in lure, argent, a bar, gules. 8. Duke. — Party per fess, argent and azure, three chaplets counterchanged. 9. Blundell. — Paly undy, of six, ermine and gules. (Should it not be argent and gules ?) 10. Shillingford. — Argent, a bend, gules, a label of five points, azure. 11. Hull. — Sable, a chevron between three talbots' heads erased, ar- gent, langued gules. 12. Fitzhenry.— Argent, a cross engrailed, sable, (This u 150 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK IL was formerly Hele.) 13. Spicer. — Per pale, sable and gules, three castles triple-towered in bend, or, between two cotises and a bordure engrailed, ermine. 14. Levermore. — Argent, a bar and two barulets, sable, between three tufts of leaves, vert; «(7?<.' pine apples proper. 15. Hele. — Argent, abend of five fusils, gules. 16, Drew. — Ermine, a lion passant, gules. 17. Totiiil. — Azure, on a bend, argent, cotised or, a lion sable. 18. Charles. — Party per fess, undy, gules and ermine, in chief an eagle displayed, or. (Now destroyed,) 19. Sturb. — Or, now arg., a star of eight points sable. 20. Harris. — Sable, three crescents arg. within a bordure of the same. 21. Wynard. — Argent, a bend azure charged with three mullets of the first. Now argent a chevron azure between three mullets, gules. 22. Holland. — Azure, a lion saliant gardant, between five lilies, argent. Now within a bordure argent. 23. Dowrish. — Argent, a bend cotised within a bordure sable. 24. Hext. — Or, a castle triple-towered between three battle-axes, sable. 25. Hunt. — Azure on a bend or, noiv argent, three leopards' faces gules, between two water bougets, or. 26. Hudisfield. — Argent, a bar sable charged with a crescent for difference between three boars, sable. 27. Gandy. — Gules, three saltiers argent, noiv or; formerly Somaster. — Argent, a castle triple-towered between seven fleur-de-lis, sable. 28. Crossing. — Or, on a chevron azure, three besants between three cross crosslets, fitchy, gules ; formerly Weekes. — Ermine, three battle-axes, sable. 29. Walker. — Azure, a grifiin segreant armed and ungued, or ; now argent a bordure engrailed ermine; 7101U argent; formerly Newcombe. 30. (qy.) Gray. — Or on a bend azure, three martlets, argent; now quarterly, first and fourth sable, a chevron argent charged with five goutes between three martlets argent, second and third, argent a chevron between three cross crosslets gules. 31. Burgoin. — Azure, a talbot passant, argent, langued and collared gules chained, or. 32. Tickell. — Ermine, on a chief indented, gules, three crowns, or, 33. KlTSON. — Sable, three fishes hauriant argent, a chief or ; now gules, three fishes hauriant argent. 34. Bat- ISHULL. — Azure, a cross crosslet saltier-wise between four owls, argent. 35, DupORT. — Barry of six, or and sable ; noiv azure a saltier within a bordure, both ingrailed, gules. 36, Qy. Bradestone ? — Argent, a chevron between three boars' heads, couped sable. 37. Noble. — Or, two flanches, and on a bar, sable, between two lions passant, azure, incensed gules, three besants; now argent two flanches sable and on a bar sable, three roundlets between two lions passant, sable, incensed sable. 38. Qy. Chalons. — Or, two bars between an orle of martlets, gules; now Bridport. — Argent, a bend, azure, between six double roses, gules. 39. Oxenham ? — Ermine, a bar between three crescents, gules; now Bampfylde ? — Argent, a bend, azure, charged with three mullets, argent. 40. Qy. Helion. — Or, on a bend, sable, three martlets, argent; now argent, a fess between three crescents, gules. 41. Qy. Gould. — Party per pale, argent and sable, a lion saliant, gules, within a border counterchanged. To the left of the Mayor's seat. 1. Smith. — Sable, a fess between two barulets, and three martlets, or, noiv argent. 2. Periam. — Gules, a chevron engrailed Chap, XV,] view of Devonshire. 151 between three leopards' faces, or. .3. Hurst. — Argent, an etoile of eight points wavy, gules. 4. Pollard. — Argent, a chevron, sable, between three mullets, now escalops, gules. 5. Tucker. — Barry wavy of twelve, azure and argent, on a chevron crenelle, or, between three sea horses, sable, 7iow or, finned, trailed, and maued, of the third, five goutes of the fourth, goutes now omitted. 6. Prestwood. — Sable, a lion saliant, now rampant, between two flanches, or. 7. Prideaux quartered with Roach. — First and fourth, argent a chevron sable, a label, gules; second and third, three roaches, two one, naiant, argent. 8, BuL- LER. — Argent, on a cross, sable, pierced of the field, four eagles displayed, sa- ble. 9. Arms of the JoiNERS. 10. Hill of Hill's Court. — Gules, a saltier vairy, no?*) argent, between four mullets, pierced, argent; now or. 11. Ball, — Argent, a chevron, gules, between three fire balls, sable fused, gules. 12. New- combe. — Argent, a fess crenelle in chief, three escallops, sable, now gules, a chev- ron, or, between three escallops, or. 13. The Tailors' Company. 14. Hutch- inson. — Per pale, azure and gules, in fess, a lion rampant, argent, semee with twelve crosslets, or ; now sable, a lion rampant, argent, between fifteen cross crosslets, or. 15. White. — Gules, on a canton, ermine, a lion saliant, now rampant, sable, within a bordure, sable, charged with stars, argent, now or. IG. Gervis. — Argent, six ostrich feathers in pile, three, two, one, sable. 17. Berryman. — Argent, a chevron, sable, between three talbots, sable. 18. Bonvill. — Sable, six mullets, three, two, and one, pierced gules, now argent. 19. Gilbert. Argent, on a chevron, sable, three roses of the field, 20. Champneys.— Argent, a lion saliant, moii' rampant, within a bordure en- grailed, gules. 21. Amerideth. — Gules, a lion rampant regardant, or. 22. At- will. — Argent, a chevron, sable, a pile in point, counterchanged. 23. Qy. Mainwaring. — Barry of ten, or and gules, with an annulet for difference, gules. 24. Petre. — Gules, on a bend, or, between two escalops, argent, charged with a Cornish chough between two cinque foils, azure, with a crescent for dif- ference, argent, a chief, or, charged with a double rose, gules, between two demi fleurs-de-lis, or. 25. Duckenfield. — Argent, a cross sarcelly, sable, voided of the field. 26. Haydon. — Argent, three bars gemelles, sable, on a chief, gules, a bar, dancette, or. 27. Plea. — -Party per pale, azure and gules, now azure and sable; a lion passant, now rampant, argent, crowned or, with a label of three points, azure, for difference. 28. . — Barry of eight, sable a chief, gules, charged with three leopards' heads, or. 29. Weavers and Ful- lers. 30. Glovers. 31. Bakers. 32. Haberdashers. 33. Qy. Ar- mourers. 34. Coopers. 35. Butchers. This being the place and seat of justice, I will briefly speak, what Mr. Hollingshed hath largely from Mr. Hooker, concerning the government thereof. The whole senate consisteth of twenty-four besides the recorder. The 152 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK II. annual officers are the mayor, sheriff, receiver, (which are always of the se- nate,) and three stewards or bailiffs; constables, and sergeants, and some other inferior officers. The government consisteth of two sorts, (yet both political,) civil and criminal. Civil causes are decided by the mayor and his officers according to an ancient rule; they ha\ang cognizance of plea, (tenere placita, et cognitio placitorum,) hearing and determining all causes between party and party. Their court is kept every Monday. The hke authority have the bailiffs or stewards in their Saturdays' court. These have, for their better proceeding, the assistance of the recorder and council of the city. In causes criminal, the city bemg by letters patents, and those confirmed and ratified by act of parliament, made a coimty, the mayor with the jus- tices do keep their quarterly sessions and goal-dehvery. There are within it eleven societies, or companies, incoi*porated ; every of which, at several days appointed at their private halls, make election of their yearly masters, wardens, or governors : who have also a certain Umit- ed power to hear and determine (or mediate and persuade,) matters in con- troversy which concern their own trades only, and matters thereunto appro- priate, whereby many matters are fairly and speedily, without any trouble, ended. The first of them for priority of worth and place, and sufficiency every way, is that of the Merchants. Tailors are the next, and for antiquity prescribe the merchants as first incorporated, A. D. 4th King Edward IV. In the 1 6th year of the same king's reign the lords of his privy council reconciled the controversy be- tween them, giving priority to the merchants. Cordwainers the third. Brewers the fourth. Cappers, Hatters, and Haberdashers the fifth. Weavers and Tuckers the sixth. Skinners and Glovers the seventh. Smiths and Cutlers the eighth. Coopers and Helliers the ninth. Butchers the tenth. The eleventh and last are Bakers. In martial affairs. — It is commanded by the Earl of Bedford, Lord Lieu- tenant hereof as of Devonshire; who doth also substitute deputies within the same: for being a county of itself, it acknowledgeth no subjection to Devon. (The castle and purheus thereof only excepted, which they confess to be in the out-shire.) They muster four companies, each an 100 strong, very well armed, under the command, at this present, of these captains : — Chap. XVL] view op Devonshire. 153 Capt. Francis Crossing of the south. Mallet of the east, Sanders of the west, James Tooker of the north quarter. I suppose it will be expected that I should here make you a list of the mayor and his brethren, the eight justices, the sheriff and other officers ; but in regard they are yearly changed, it may be a lost labour, and I pro- ceed to another business. CHAPTER XVI. Of the Cathedral-Church of St. Peter's. — The antiquity and building thereof. We have viewed the city and the laity thereof to our satisfaction and con- tentment; now with all expected and expectable humility let us raise our spirits (without any grain of icarian or phaetonian presumption,) to a high- er pitch and visit the clergy; yet neither with an annual, triennial, or me- tropoUtical visitation, but once for aU : neither come we to visit their purses, (as a learned and truly reverend divine made question of at a triennial visi- tation,) nor manners, (which he earnestly and rightly desired,) for our intent is plainly seen; for as a modern rustic poet simg, so say we, — " Those that are plac'd to overlook, by their degree, Shall over-see themselves, and so (from me) pass free." We intend only to insist upon one article, and to make diligent inquiry and true presentment thereof, taking words without oath — item, whether your churches, chapels, churchyards, &c. be well repaired, cleanly and de- cently kept and beautified; and this is inquirable as an ordinary article at every visitation. Let us therefore begin with the chiefest, for we intend to leave none un- seen, even the Cathedral of St. Peter, which we find spacious, fair, beauti- fied with many, and those ancient, arms of the chiefest houses in this country and elsewhere; sundry goodly, both ancient and new erected mo- numents: much variety of sage, witty, facetious, and quaint epitaphs; with curious and rare imagery, especially in the western frontispiece; which not only for the excellent workmanship, Init for the historical matter, both 154 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK II. sacred of the church and of the kingdom in those times, all so excellent that it is grown even to the height of a wonder. The first stone whereof was laid about the year 1050, and yet not totally and absolutely finished, with cloisters and chapter-house, until A.D. 1448, so that it was well near 400 years to bring it to the perfection you now see. — " Tantae molis erat Romanam condere gentem." So huge a labour it was to frame, A work should carry so great fame. As it now doth present itself to the spectator's eye it cannot be (the true and perfect uniformity considered,) without admiration; and not to be more exactly accomplished had it been finished in one age and by one man's hand ; for If on the same you do but cast your eye, The stones are join'd so artificially, That if the mason had not checker'd fine Syrian alabaster with hard serpentine, And hundred marbles no less fair than firm. The whole but one stone you might rightly term. But sithence this kingdom in other cities yields both larger and as fair, it is needless to use any particular description; or speak of the two fair spacious and high towers, which standing opposite one against the other in the fess-point thereof, divide the choir from the body of the church. That on the north hath a continual motion or dial, showing not only the passage of the day, but together therewith the days of the month and variable changes of the moon, subscribed with these verses, — " Festinando dies sub solis luce jucundi Diuturna quies docet, et modo tempus eundi." And under these again, — " Praeterit ista dies, nescitur origo secundi, An labor an requies ? sic transit gloria mundi." The rare invention of clocks and dials if it cause me to wander a little out of my way, let it not seem strange; for I have been informed by a writer of great fame that the Romans were 593 years without them ere they would admit of them ; but once entertained, were very carefully and Chap. XVI.] view of Devonshire. 155 curiously preserved: wliereof he describes three divers sorts; one of the sun, devised by Scipio Nasica; (but I rather think he should have said, brought to Rome by Scipio Nasica; for we read long before his time that by the prayer of Isaiah the shadow of the dial of Ahaz was brought ten degrees backward;) the second of hours, by Aneximenides : and the third of the water, by Thales. But the first use of clocks in churches was in the time of Phocas, the fifty-ninth emperor, by Sabinianus, the sixty-third pope, successor to Gregory the Great. Surely I cannot but admire the invention, for before that we could not say, we will rise at six, dine at twelve, or sup at seven; but we will rise with the sun, dine at mid-day, and sup at sun-set. This clock strikes (which must not be forgotten) on a bell named Peter's Bell, as given by Bishop Peter Courtenay, whose weight is 11,000 pounds at least. And here, though it may seem to some a trivial subject, to speak of the invention and first devisor of bells, yet considering the musical sound, and necessary use we have of them for clocks and convocating people to divine service, (which God commanded Moses should be done with silver trum- pets,) I cannot think but they were first invented by Divine Inspiration: for when christians began to multiply and disperse abroad in remote places, they could not easily be cajled together by the voice of man (as is now in use among the Turks,) nor by sound of trumpet, but by a louder and fuller sound. And it is worthy observation that no law sect, or any professed religion, have any use of bells for service in their temples, but only chris- tians. These are said to be first invented at Nola by Fauhnus, an excellent bi- shop there, of equal standing with St. Augustine and St. Jerome, between whom passed several letters yet extant : he was the first that used them in his church and bishoprick ; and hence it may well be thought that bells in the Latin word are called Nola. Other properties ascribed to bells are somewhat strange, as resisting tempests, dividing thunders, extinguishing sudden fires, expelhng devils and making them quake and tremble; which though by reasons and arguments strongly maintained, yet in regard it will require a large belief, I will speak no farther. The antiquity of this magnificent church can hardly plead GOO years ; for Mr. Hooker saith (we will acknowledge his sedulous lucubrations in search- ing and enlightening the dark and obscured treasures of this church and city. 156 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE, [ BoOK II. though we read it also elsewhere;) that in this place stood three religious houses : two of monks ; one builded by King Etheldred, the other by King Athelstan; and a third for nuns, which he calleth moniales, which one read unto me, moniUa; which was not much amiss, both being pretty ornaments for monks. I knew of three religious houses here, which were so furnished with religious people that the Saxons, at their conquest, finding the city so replete with such persons, and those so venerable and reverend, thought there had been no other inhabitants therein, and so called it Monkton, or Monkes-town. Now whether there were any nuns among them I never inquired after, not doubting but the monks did that in their time, especially if they were so aifable, courteous, and kind as the Sumpner's Friar in Chaucer to the farmer's wife, of whom he saith, — " This friar ariseth up full courteously And her embraceth in his arms narrow, And kisseth her sweet, and chirketh as a sparrow With his lips : dame, quoth he, I fare right well, As he that is your servant, every deal. Thanked be God that you have soul and life, Yet saw I not to day so fair a wife In all the whole church, so God save me." And indeed I must confess it was an oversight in me, I might well have imagined there had been nuns also, for it was consonant to nature and rea- son; and very necessary for the mutual comfort one might have of the other, that where were two houses for males, there should be one of females. But the lustre of these houses lasted not long, for they were in short time trodden under the Danes' profane feet : for having run over, or over- run the greatest part of this land, sacked and ransacked this city, together with the monasteries, the poor carcases lay waste, (the votaries having for- saken them, seeking places in the deserts of more security,) untU good King Edgar came to Tavistock to visit his queen's father, Odogarus Duke of Devon ; who taking tender compassion both of persons and houses, called home the one and re-edified the other, and so restored the monks to their houses, and the houses to the monks; which continued for a time, but not without trouble, until Sweno, the Dane, like a strong overflowing torrent, with great cruelty and fury irresistable afflicting this kingdom, fell with ex- Chap. XVIL] view op Devonshire. -157 treme rigour upon this city beyond others; for being resisted at his first assault, he continually beleagured it until it was gotten ; and then after the sacking, did his utmost with rage and fury to demolish it both with sword and fire. But his son and successor, Canutus, with a meeker mind, inclined to Christianity, yielded to the humble petition of Atheldredus; (one of his most favoured nobles;) for by his intercession he restored to Athelwoldus, then abbot, aU lands, livings, privileges, and immunities thereunto formerly belonging, as the charter, bearing date 1019, testifieth: — " Egregia soboles, scelerato nata parente." A worthy son (why not?) Of a worthless sire begot. As Josias of Ammon, Hezekias of Ahaz, &c. CHAPTER XVII. Of the Bishops and other Dignitaries of the Church of Exeter. Some thirty years after (viz, 1049,) Leofricus, the Bishop of Crediton, Lord Chancellor of England, and one of the Privy Council to King Edward the Confessor, was translated to Exeter. This good king comes to this city and translated those monks to Westminster, and the Bishop Leofricus from Crediton to this more convenient place ; and with Goditha, or Editha, his queen, installed him (as it is recorded,) after this manner: — The king leading him by the right hand, and the queen by the left, they brought him to the high altar, and by this ceremony gave him possession, or (as we say,) installed him. And having those three monasteries given him, demohshed them, and laid the first stone of the foundation of this church; which part was where our lady-chapel now stands; and set onward also for other convenient houses for his clergy. His chapter at first was not such as now, but only the vicars choral of his church, and of them the arch-deacon of Exeter was chief. He sat 158 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK II. twenty-thi'ee years. In his time this kingdom was conquered, and this city besieged and taken by William the Norman Conqueror. This Bishop Leo- fricus Baton died A. D. 1073, and was buried in the cemetery or church- yard of the church, for church-yai'ds were procured of the pope, by Cuth- bert, archbishop of Canterbury, 300 years before his time; for ere that age dead bodies in this land were not buried in cities, (for that was held unlaw- fiil,) but in the fields, which is plainly expressed by the monuments usually found in sundry places; and Honorius, when he divided this proAdnce into parishes, appointed no church-yards unto them. But by the enlargement of this church, his sepulture came to be in the floor of the south tower, on whom (in memory of so worthy a personage) a new monument was erected by the instance of Mr. Hooker, at the charge of Lord Bishop Wolton [Que- ry, William Alley?] and the dean and chapter, with a long large epitaph too gi*eat to be transcribed, but under that there is a briefer dialogistical-wise, which I judge well worthy your view : — "P. Urnapolita quidem ! sed cujus, die mihi, sodes; BI. Estne Leofrici? M. Sic vaga fama volat. P. Attaraen baud isto tumulo sunt ossa sepulta ? M. Non, namsub fractomarmore trita jacent. P Quis qualisque fuit? M. Primus fuit Exoniensis. M. Preesul. Plura tibi, scripta superna dabunt. P. Grata deo pietas hominum meminisse bonorum. Aspera die quando fata tulere virum ? M. Quatuor adde decern lustra et tres insuper annos Mille Leofricum Mors tremebunda petit. (1073.) 1568. W. Exon." And now finding his lordship here at his palace at the cathedral church of his see, by dutv' and promise (when I parted from him at Crediton,) I am obliged to wait on him, which you see me ready to perform : but I am hin- dered fi-om doing it at the present, being called on earnestly, yea, urged to reply to an unanswerable (as 'tis said) objection, at least very difficult and eagerly maintained; for I am taxed for often calling Exeter a city before this time, which they say could not be before the installation of this Bishop Leofricus : a city being derived a sede, the see or seat where the bishop is resident, and thereof doth, take denomination. It is somewhat to the purpose, I confess, yet I cannot presently yield and subscribe, until I have some learned man's opinion; I will therefore Chap. XVII.] view op Devonshire. 159 demand Aristotle's, (whose opinion is taken for law,) and examine Ms definition, (or rather Patricius out of him:) — 'a city," saith he, "is a con- course or colony of people gathered together to live by one law, rule, and order of justice." This was long before there were any bishops; and by this definition every commonwealth, country, and parish is a city. Let us therefore entreat another to speak what he thinks. Isodorus, what is your opinion ? — "A city is a collection of divers dispersed people who combine themselves to live together civilly, under such customs, laws, and statutes, as shall be appropriate to the same." These learned men differ very little in sense and meaning, yet so every subject in Great Britain is a citizen. To derive civitas-a-civiHtas were somewhat pretty, and urbs from urvo or aratro, near aUke, and yet both these synonima; for Niniveh, Babylon, Bizance, Athens, Sparta, and Rome, were noted by either or both names, yet all along before there were any bishops. But now the use of speech liath somewhat by custom introduced this distinction, applying civitas to a bishop's see, and urbs to any mui'ed or fortified town or fort. But to con- clude and reconcile this variance, there is yet a better distinction: — " civitas et urbs in hoc ditFerunt, quod incolse dicuntur civitas, urbs vero complec- titur aedificia." And Polidore saith that bishops in elder times dwelled in pagis and villages as our bishop at Tawton and Crediton, which by this objection are concluded to be cities. — A bishop, a city. But leaving to speak a word more of this matter, we will attend his lord- ship and all his successors, and record them as briefly as we may; their places of interment, epitaphs, monuments, and arms. And first, the church of Exeter beareth, gul. a sword erect in pale, arg. pomelled, and hilted, or, surmounted by two keys, in saltier of the last. Leofricus Baton, first bishop, bears, arg. on a cross flory, sab., a mitre proper. Osbertus, a Norman, nobly born, sat next, A. D, 1074; yet it is supposed by some that one Gaulfred was somewhile between them, but being but a supposition, and the time very short that he enjoyed it, we will forbear to give him a place in our catalogue. Osbertus kept the place thirty years, and died blind, and was buried in his own church. He gave gul. a bai- and bend or. To him succeeded William Warwast, a Norman also; for the Conqueror and his two sons, William II. and Henry I., preferred their countrymen; 160 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK 11. for he was chaplain to all three. This man was said to be founder of the priory of PUmpton; but in a case of law in the 3rd King Edward III. the king was adjudged founder, in which case the antiquity of the priory was discovered. The Conqueror gave him Plimpton, Braunton, and St. Ste- phens. The first he bestowed on the priory there; the second on the dean,* with whom it continues even to this age; the third, being St. Stephens, the fee thereof he kept for himself, and successors, whereby they are barons of the parliament. He enlarged the church by laying the foundation of the choir or quire. He possessed the place twenty years: but in his age being blind, he retired to live privately at the priory of Plimpton. His arms, per pale gu. and or, in the first, two keys paly of the second. The second, charged with a sword point in point of the field. His successor was Robert Chichester, Dean of Sahsbury, who governed twenty-two, some say twenty- seven, years, and was buried in his own church, which I take to be in the wall of the same. His arms, cheeky or, and gul. a chief vairy. Next to him sat Robert Warwast, nephew to William Warwast, formerly mentioned, A. D. 1150, and after nine years died and was buried at Plimp- ton. He bears as his uncle. This belongs to John the Chaimtor. After him came Bartholomew Iscanus, or of Exeter, taking his name from the place of his nativity. He was consecrated in the year 11 59: a man of rare gifts for those tunes, for he strongly opposed [at first] Thomas Becket both at home and at Rome, even before the Pope himself, both in speech and writing. He governed fourteen years. Of his interment the place is uncertain. He bears, per pale sab. and arg., six dolphins transmuted. John the Chaimtor succeeded him A. D. 1184, who ruled but six years: proceeding somewhat in the building of the church. He was buried in the south wall, over against the bishop's door leading to the palace. He gave, argent, a cross sable, a chief of the second. Henry Marshall, Archdeacon of Stafford, succeeded A. D. 1192. His birth was noble, being son to John, the king's marshal, and brother to * This is manifestly incorrect, as is indeed much of his chronology of the See. The oflSce of Dean of Exeter was not created until 1225 ; when the bishop, William Brewer, annexed to this dignity the church of Tawton, with its chapels of Swymbridge and Landkey; the church of Braunton, with its appurtenances; and the church of Colaton, commonly called Colaton Ralegh. — G. 0., — P. J. Chap. XVII.] view of Devonshire. 161 William Marshall, Earl of Pembroke. He furthered the building of his church somewhat, and purchased the lordship of Woodbury of one Albe- marle, appropriating it to the vicars choral. He was prompt and eager in his excommunications and interdictions, and died in the thirteenth year of his government, and was buried in the north wall of his church or choir under a fair marble monument. His paternal coat, per. pale or and vert, a lion ramp., gul. armed and langued within a bordure azure, entoyred with mitres proper. Simon de Apulia was installed A. D. 1206, and spent eighteen years therein, and continued the augmentation of the church; wherein, after his death, he was buried in the south wall thereof. He bears, masculy or, and sab. After him William Brewer was advanced to that honourable place in this country, wherein he was born of noble parentage, being grandson to William Brewer, Lord of Totnes and Torbay, founder of the abbeys of Torr and Dunkeswell. He was enriched with many excellent qualities, insomuch as King Henry III. entrusted him to convey his sister, the Lady Isabella, to be married to Frederick the Emperor, which he prudently and worthily performed to his great honour and the king's contentment. After [before] his return, A.D. 1235, he constituted a dean, (the first that was, and his name Serlo,) to whom he impropriated Braunton and Colaton-Ralegh, and twenty-four prebendaries, to whom he gave so much purchased land as might yield them 4£ per annum, pro pane et sale. So speak the very words. He sat nineteen years, and heth buried in the middle of the choir or chancel of his church under a marble stone, thus inscribed, " Hie jacet Willielmus Brewer quondam hujus ecclesise cathedralis episcopus, fundator etiam quatuor principahum ejusdem ecclesiae dignitatum." He gave as his father, gul. two bends wavy, or. Successor to him was Richard Blondy, A.D. 1245; a man of mild spirit, and so abused by his servants; but earnest in his church's cause, and boun- tiful towards the enlarging and proceeding in the building thereof. He died in the twelfth year of his government, and was buried in his own church in the south tower under a fair tomb. He gave, azure, three bishops' mitres proper. After him came Walter Brounscombe, a native of this city. Archdeacon of Surrey, A.D. 1246. Before his election he had taken no orders of the 162 VIKW OF DEVONSHIRE. [ BoOK II. church, hut immediately assumed all, and the fifteenth day was installed ; a very short time, for so many degrees as those times required. He did many things for the increase of the livelihood of his church and successors, which were not thought to be commendable in any man, much less a spiritual mortified man. He governed twenty-three years, and was buried in the south side of our lady-chapel, under a stately alabaster monument with his effigy and this epitaph, — "Olim sincerus pater omni dignus amove Primus Walterus, magnojacet hie in honore. Edidit hie plura dignissima laude statuta Quee tanquam jura servant hie omnia tuta. Atque hoc collegium quod Glasseney plebs vocat omnis Condidit egregium, pro voce data sibi somnis. Quot Loca construxit, pietatis quotbona fecit Quam sanctam duxit vitam, vox dieere quae scit, Laudibus immensis jubilet gens Exoniensis Et chorus et turbse, quod natus in hac fuit urbe. Plus si scire velis, festum statuit Gabrielis : Gaudeat in ccelis igitur Pater isle fidelis." His arms, or, on a chevron between two keys in chief and a sword in base, sab., three cinquefoils of the field. Peter Qmvel succeeded next, A. D. 1281. He first instituted a chauntor in this church, his name was Walter Lichlade, who was slain as he came early in the morning to sing his matins ; and a subdean ; impropriating Paynton and Chudlegh for the one, and Egleshayl for the other. He im- propriated also Newlyn and Stoke- Gabriel, and united them to the chan- cellor of his church ; obliging them to read a lecture of divinity or the decretals, or it was to return. The date of the grant was the 12th of the kalends of May, A.D. 1283.* In his time a difference arose between the chapter and the mayor and commonalty about the enclosing of the chm-chyard ; which, with all other differences arising and execution of jus- * The truth is, the bishop collated Walter Lichdale to this ancient office of Precentor on 1st August, 1282 ; having, on the 8th of the preceding month, improved its revenues by the annexation of the churches of Paignton and Chudleigh. He was pleased to add to the chancellorship, on 20th April, 1283, the benefices of Stoke Gabriel and St. Newlyn; and on 9th July, 1284, instituted the office of sub-dean, to which he appropriated Eglos- heil.—G. O.,— P, J. Chap. XVII.] view of Devonshire. 163 tice upon the murderers of the chauntor, were compromised and accorded bv King Edward I., who kept his Christmas in this city. At which time also there was a jar between the bishop and the Gray Friars Franciscans, who, by the intercession of Humphry Bohun, Earl of Hereford, (who had lodged with them at the king's bemg here,) they procured a Hcense to re- move their house to some more convenient and amenous place; to which the bishop promised not only to give leave and consent, but to yield also his best assistance. Now they, soon finding out a place, petition the bishop to perfonn his promise ; but he perceiving it to be in his own fee, refused to give leave, and often denied their impoi-tunate request, with this impre- cation against himself, wishing that whensoever he should yield consent to their request he might be choked. Now St. Francis, careful of his votaries, watched, as the friars said, some opportunity to be revenged on the bishop. — • " Tangit et ira Deos." None shall 'scape free that offer scath, For saints themselves are prone to wrath. As Ovid said of the goddess Diana, where her altars were neglected. And it may be true ; for it was a common proverb in former times that St. Lawrence was an angry saint ; and no marvel, for broUed meat is cho- leric. And thus it proceeded ; Deodatus, warden of the convent of friars, came to the bishop, importuning him very earnestly for the place to erect his new seat ; at which conference, growing earnest and warm in arguing the matter, and at length to a great heat, that the bishop being thirsty called for drink, (or rather, as others will, for juhpe,) which taking over hastily (St. Francis perhaps jogging his elbow,) he was presently choked. (Walter Winborn, one of the king's justices, being present, who was also a testis when the bishop promised the king to favour and assist the fi-iars:) and so this was presently blazed abroad by the friars for a miracle wrought by St, Francis in behalf of his votaries, A pretty miracle! I cannot deny; and yet, methinks, hardly to be termed a saint's action. But let it pass for once ; we have many much worse in this age of such as are newly canonized for saints ; and of other some that for their pvuity would be held saints upon earth . This happened A . D, 1 283, We will deny him nothing of his rights ; he was a bountiful benefactor to 164 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK II, his church, and first laid the foundation of the body thereof. He was bu- ried in the midst of our lady-chapel, under a very large marble stone en- graven with a great long cross, and in the circumference this verse for an epitaph, — " Petra tegit Petrum, nihil officiat sibi tetrum." Which verse, written in an ancient character, each letter distant from the other at least four inches, so that this short verse suppUed the whole large circumference, and cost me some labour the finding out and reading it. He bears, azure a cross arg. between two roses in chief and two fleur-de-lis in base. or. Thomas Bytton was his successor, and proceeded in building the church : a great favourer of learned men, and was of fourteen years continuance here, and then died A. D. 1306, and was buried in the chancel of his church. His arms, ermine a fess gul. Next to him sat Walter Stapledon, A. D. 1307, of noble birth, acute wit, great learning, and very pohtic. All which good qualities concurring in one subject, procured him special favour with King Edward II., so he made him of his Privy Council, and Lord High Treasurer of England, and was here installed with great pomp and solemnity : but as honour and riches increased (a worthy observation,) so did his bounty to learning and learned men ; for he erected two houses in Oxford, Hart's- Hall and Stapledon's- Hall ; and impropriated Ernscombe for the maintenance of poor children in St. John's Hospital within the east-gate of this city. He was faithful, with perfect constancy to his sovereign, (a noble remembrance in those trouble- some times,) which cost him his hfe : for being made custos of the city of London (the king being retired from thence with the Spencers,) he required the keys of the lord mayor, and thereupon was by the furious commons taken and beheaded in Cheapside, the 1 5th of October, 1326, with his brother. Sir Richard Stapledon. Their bodies were first buried in the rubbish by the side of the river Thames ; but after the coronation of Edward III. and aU things qualified and quieted, and settled, the queen -mother, forgetting old discourtesies, became more charitable, and caused him to be brought into his own church and native country : (for he was born at Annery, as his ar- mories testify :) he was buried in the north wall of the choir, next the high altar, with this large epitaph, — Chap. XVII.] view of Devonshire. 1C5 " Epitaphium Gaulteri Stapledoni Exou Episcopi ejus nominis secundi. Annos Edwardus ter senos ille secundus Hie cum regnasset, regia sceptra tenens, Hujus cum gnato Suffolcia littora conjux Appulit horrisono classica Marte sonans, Hennorum satrapas huic nervum contulit istum Herculea et vegeta dux fuit ille manu. Quid furitis cives ? quid vult sibi cruda virago ? In sua ferrata viscera versa manu. Nam regina virum sequitur, princepsque parentem, Compar ab Edwardi nomine nomen habens. Kex ope nee fultus, necscripto milite firmus, Arcis munimen Bristoliensis adit. Ante tamen proceres, glomerat primosque senatus. Rebus ut ex dubiis commoda certa legat. Deinde Stapletonum Londino praeficit urbi, Urbis is alterius moenia celsa petit. Iste Stapledonus Gualterus nomine dictus Praesul (si rogites) Exoniensis erat. Musis Oxoniae prajclaram condidit aulam, Huic Stapledoni ex nomine nomen erat. Ex qua coenobium quod dicitur Exoniense Sumptibus baud parvis nobile struxit opus, Gymnasium facit, quod vulgo dicitur Harts-hall. Quidmultis? multas condidit ille scholas. Laudibus seternis fuit hujus digna voluntas Oflficiis nomen sparsit in orbe piis. Summus erat quaestor summo praeclarus honore, Regi a secretis consiliisque fuit. Post ubi per cunctas ruerat gens civica portas, Ille petit claves magna pericla timens. Huic urbana phalanx, rabido correpta furore, Prajsulis insontis subdita colla ferit. Auxilio cupiit dum fratri frater adesse, Acriter in fratrem gens mala sana premit. Arrepto similem plebs infert effera mortem Strage hac exultat sanguinolenta truci. Certe miles erat fortisque bonusque favori, Rarus at in rabie suevit adesse locus. Hos sic enectos aedes pene Exonienses Ripario tumulo vilis arena tegit. Quos humili miserata sitos regina sepulchre 166 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [ BoOK II. Regifice instructos (ranstulit Exoniani. Praesulis hie tumulus sed militis e regione Fataque sic fratres una eademque petunt. Anno 1568. W. Exon." His paternal armories, arg. two bends undy sab. Successor unto him was James Berkeley, of the noble family of the Lord Berkeleys, and was installed A. D. 1327; but lived for a short time to make show of his generous mind, for he died in the fourth month ; but the place of his interment is not directly known.* He bears gul. a chev. between ten crosses pattee, or. At the death of Berkeley, John Grandisson, Archdeacon of Nottingham, was ambassador for the king at Rome to the pope; to whom the king pre- sented him by letter to be Bishop of Exeter, who consecrated him with his own hands. He was son of Gilbert, [William,] and brother of Otho, the great Lord Grandisson ; thcv descending of the ancient royal house of the Grandis- sons, Dukes of Burgundy. He was afterward one of the privy council to Ed- ward III. He builded the college of St. Mary, Ottery, which shall be spoken of in its place. In his church he builded the two last arches in the west end, vaulting the roof throughout the whole church, and perfectly finished the body of the same. He was noted to use all possible means to get wealth, as fi-ugality (which some termed niggardliness,) in expenses and hospitality; keeping no more sers^ants than urgent necessity required: and made a decree that all ecclesiastical persons in his diocese should, at their death, bequeath their goods to him, or some other in trust — ad pios usus : for this his procuring of riches proceeded not (as appeared) from a covetous desire to be rich, but to benefit and enrich the church. His wisdom surely foresaw (or at least feared) some hea\'y burden or fatal chance would fall on the clergy, and therefore erected upon his sanctuary at Teignton-Bishop a very fair house, impropriating to it the parsonage of Radway, to the end (as his vnll expressed,) " ut habeant locum, unde caput suum rechnarent, — si forte in manum regis eorum temporalia caperentur." His legacies were large; but as he was frugal in his life, so commanded he the like to be used at his funeral, — that no charge should be bestowed in blacks, but every man to be attired in their accustomed habit, which was grey. * He was buried, says Leland, vol. 3, Itinerary, p. 45, on the south part of the choir^ with this inscription, — "In Berkeley natus jacet hie Jacobus tumulatus."— G. O., — P. J. Chap. XVII.] view of Devonshire, 167 He opposed himself against the metropohtan's visitation within this his diocese ; and when he came to the church for that purpose he resisted his en- trance. His time here was twenty-three years, for he died anno 1419,* and was buried in the west wall of his church in a chapel there purposely built, and was shrouded in lead, which was not long since taken up, the lead melted, and the chapel defaced. An unworthy deed; and it is to me a mai-vel that it escaped unpunished, in regard the very heathen had laws against the vio- lating or defacing of monuments or sepulchres. He bears, with his ances- tors, with some addition expressing his episcopal vocation, paly of six, arg. and azure on a bend gu., charged with a mitre between two eaglets displayed, or. Thomas Brentingham was next preferred to this diocese; he was at one self-same instant elected bishop both of this church and of Hereford, but accepted this, anno 1 370. He was chosen one of the thirteen peers (whereof seven were of the spirituality,) in the 10th of Richard II. to govern and manage the affairs of the realm. He was a chief benefactor to the vicars choral ; and sat twenty-four years : his interment was under a chapel build- ed by himself in the body of the church, between the north door and the north tower. The chapel was lately demolished ; but the stone, sometime inlaid with brass, only remains to testify it : for his epitaph is worn or rent away with the brass. His insignia, sab. a fess crenelle between three Ca- therine wheels, or. Edmund Stafford, of noble parentage, being brother to Ralph, (created Earl Stafford by Edward III.,) succeeded next, and was installed 1395. His excellent endowments of wisdom, learning, and generous behaviour, wrought him into the king's love, and so endeared him that he was made one of the privy council, and anno 20th Richard II. Lord Chancellor of England. He increased two fellowships in Stapleton's Inn, in Oxford; reformed the statutes, and called it Exeter College. He died 4th Sep- tember, 1419, having continued bishop twenty-four years with much ho- nour and due reverence ; and was buried in a stately monument of alabaster in the north side of our lady chapel. His mutilated epitaph speaks thus, — " Hie jacet Edmundus de Stafforde iutumulatus. Quondam profundus Legum Doctor reputatus, Verbis facundus, Comitum de stirpe creatus. Felix ct mundus pater hujus Pontificatus." * He died I5lh July, 1369, having nearly completed 42 years' government of his See. G. O,,— P, J . 168 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK II. The arms of the family are, or a chevron gul.; his addition, entoyred with bishops' mitres proper. James Gary, being in Florence with Pope Martin the .5 th, was instituted and consecrated there by him anno 1419; but never returned home to be installed, but there ended his days, and was there also buried. The ensigns of his ancestry were, arg. on a bend sab., three roses of the field. To him, for distinction, was added, a bordure azure entoyred with mitres proper. To him succeeded Edmund Lacy, anno 1420. In his tune the contention between the dean and chapter, and the mayor and commonalty, concerning their liberties, was revived, and after much business referred to the arbi- tratement of several worthy personages, whereof Thomas Earl of Devon and Sir William Bonvile of Shute were principal, who made a paUiative cure thereof. He was learned, affable, and courteous, and very zealous and devout; for which he was greatly esteemed, and had even in admiration with the vulgar. He was generally in high regard and reverence for his excellent speech he made concerning a biU preferred in parliament against the most vile and lewd abuses of the Black Monks, which was so pathetical and effectual, that with certain articles also in the convocation house by him ingeniously and pithily penned and presented, that his only motion and speech was after held a sufficient censure and definitive sentence. His in- tegrity and zealous devotion was so marvelled at, that after his decease many miracles were supposed to be done by him at his tomb ; which caused great repair thither, and many pilgrimages to be made; but that continued not long. His government was of thirty-five years continuance. His corpse was laid in the north wall of the chancel, and his ensigns were, azure, three shovellers' heads erased arg. Some name them swans' heads. George Nevill, fourth son of Richard Nevill, Earl of Sahsbury, by Alice his wife, daughter and sole heir of Thomas Montacute, Earl of SaUsbiiry, sat next. He it was that finished the chapter house begun by his prede- cessor, and after eight years was translated to York. ( he was made Lord Chancellor of England while he was Bishop of Exeter,) anno 1465. His paternal coat was, gul. a satire arg., a file of three gobony arg. and azure : his mother's coat, arg. three lozenges in fess gul. : yet there is set for him, gul. three lozenges in fess arg. within a border or. After the translation of George Nevill, John Booth was consecrated and installed, anno 1466. He governed well for his time, but being of a mild Chap. XVII.]. view of Devonshire. 169 nature and quiet disposition, unable to endure the many and great troubles between King Henry VI. and Richard Earl of Warwick, and King Edward IV., he removed hence to his own house at Horsleigh in Hampshire, where he died ; and lieth buried at St. Clements without Temple-Bar. His arms, arg. three boars' heads erased, snouts erected, sab. a file of three lables, gu. Peter Courtenay, third son of Sir Philip Courtenay of Powderham, third son of Hugh, the third of that name. Earl of Devon, was the next that was placed in the cathedral, 1477. He finished the north tower of his church, and gave the great bell formerly spoken of. He was greatly in the favour of King Henry VII., who translated him to Winchester in 1487, where he died and was buried. His arms, or, three torteauxes, a file of three labels charged with nine plates. Successor to him was Richard Fox, whose nature somewhat aUuded to his name, whereby he was much employed both abroad with the French King and Duke of Brittany, and also at home. He was made Lord Privy Seal, and removed hence to Bath, and thence to Durham; which seat he had scarce warmed ere he was translated to Winchester, where he died and was buried 5th October, 1528. But I may not leave him, but I must tell you what re- membrance Erasmus makes of him in his Ecclesiastes : — " This bishop [saith he] being employed by the king to get him money by a benevolence of the clergy, (for the king seemed to be in some want,) he summoned them before him and made known unto them what need the king had of supply, and used the best persuasions that wisdom and eloquence could devise to induce and move them to contribute largely and with alacrity. They, again on the other side, made all the excuses they could invent, every man to shift it ofi" from himself and to be excused from lending. Some came seemly and decently apparelled, well attended on according to their estate; and these aUedged that the charge of housekeeping and hospitality required of them weakened their estate and emptied their pur- ses, so they could hardly keep themselves out of debt; and therefore could not lend, but were to be excused . Other some came meanly and poorly apparelled, and they pleaded poor hvings and great charges, a hard world, — every thing they sold was cheap, and therefore they had no money to lend. " But the bishop as poUtic as they were cunning, used this dilemma, — to the richer sort he urged, that forasmuch as they were so richly appa- relled and kept such bountiful hospitality, it could not be but that their in- 170 VIBW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK II. comes were great, and that they were rich and aforehand, or else they would live more frugally; and therefore they might not refuse to supply the king's wants, and a Uttle sparing would soon bring it in again. To those that pretended poverty he said, that forasmuch as they wore such plain apparel and Hved so fragally, yea, sparingly and niggardly, it was not possible but they must needs be wealthy ; for what they spared from rich clothes and vain expenses filled their purses, and therefore they might not refuse ( in reason and duty) to supply the king's occasions. He bare, azure, a pelican feeding her young with her blood in her nest, or. After the translation of Fox, Ohver King was consecrated, 1492. He was formerly Dean of Windsor, and the king's chaplain, and registrar of the noble Order of St. George. In his time Perkin Warbeck assaulted this city, whose illusion was the overthrow of many good families in this pro- vince, who simply misled by that cunning counterfeit, whom the Duchess of Burgimdy (an implacable and irreconcileable enemy to the house of Lan- caster,) had bred, fashioned, and named Richard Plantagenet, Duke of York, second son to Edward IV. ; as if he had been resuscitated from death to life. This bishop sat but five years, and was buried at Windsor, 1497.* His arms, arg. on a chev. sab., three escallops of the field. Richard Redmayn was his successor, transferred hither from St. Asaph in 1496; and after five years was translated to Ely, 1501. He bears, gul. three cushions erm. tassels, or. A native of a dignous family of this diocese was the next incumbent, John Arundell, of the house of Lanhem in Cornwall; who, more for love of his country wherein he was bom than any benefit or preferment, came hither from Coventry and Lichfield; but enjoyed the place a small time, the space only of two years. Dying in London, he was buried in St. Clements with- out Temple-Bar, 1503. The ensigns of his family are, sab. six martlets in pile 3. 2. 1., arg. Upon his decease came Hugh Oldham; a man more esteemed and com- mended for zeal and devotion than learning and science, yet was he a great favourer of learned men, and purposed to have augmented Exeter College in Oxford, both in building and fellowships ; but being denied a simple request of the rector and fellows, he joined with Bishop Fox, of Winchester, for * He was translated to Bath in 1495, and was buried in the abbey church there late in 1503,— G. O.,— P. J. Chap. XVII.] view of Devonshire. 17 1 the erecting of Corpus Christi College in Oxford. After sixteen years he deceased, anno 1519, and was buried in a sumptuous private chapel of his own, at the higher end of the south ambulatory of the choir, where his arms are multiphed: — sab. a chev., or, between three owls. ai*g. on a chief of the second, three roses, gul. John Voysey, alias Harman, Dean of the chapel to King Henrv VIII., Lord President of Wales and Governor of the Lady Mary, the king's eldest daughter, (whose learning was commendable, but his court-like behaviour excelled, being generally accounted a better courtier than preacher or scho- lar,) was next consecrated. Alas! the while! My tear-drown'd eyes a night of clouds bedims, About my ears a buzzing horror swims, My fainting knees witii feebleness are humble, My faltering feet do slide away and stumble. I must alter my style and learn a new rule in arithmetic, for whereas since the installation of the Lord Leofricus Baton I have used nothing but mul- tiplication and addition to this church and the revenues thereof, and at the coming in of this man to see to what opulent estate, and magnificence it was come unto from slender and small beginnings; now I must try the rule of subtraction, and speak of the wasting and decays thereof; but thereof briefly, for ill news will admit no circumstances nor long discourse. — Oh! woe is me to be the messenger Of this sad new:s that now I bring you, sir. As he is said to speak that brought the first ill news to Job. In the 2nd King Henry V., anno 1414, at a parhament holden at Leices- ter, a bill, or supplication was preferred, which had relation to a former, presented to the parliament holden at Westminster, 11th King Henry IV., (which at that time, by reason that the king was then not well settled, but ever like to be troubled with civil discord, took none effect,) both of them tended to this eftect, that the temporal lands devoutly given, and disordi- nately spent by those (named) religious and .spiritual persons, should be seized into the king's hands, sith the same might suffice to maintain (to the honour of the king and defences of the realm,) 15 earls, 1500 knights, 6000 esquires, and a 100 alms-houses for the relief only of the poor, impo- tent and needy persons, and none else; and the king to have yearly into 1 72 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK II. his coffers 20,000£. At which time it was found by survey, and an extent thereof made, that the church of Exeter could then dispend yearly 7000£., which, according to the value of the ounce of silver in those days to the rate now current, I suppose to be now tripled : then, if you please but to consi- der of the improvement, I might say tripled again : so at your best leisure you may make audit; for it had in this county, seventeen manors ; in Corn- wall, eight; and seven in other shires; in all, thirty-two; and fourteen fair palaces, each severally furnished with aU competent necessaries. ( Plate and linen excepted.) Of aU these troubles this courtly bishop Voysey eased his successors : I will forbear to name them since the count is already cast up and brought to this catastrophe, that all is gone, and the now diocesan hath only one house to rest in ; and as Bishop Grandisson fore prophesied, ubi caput reclinaret; for with his bounty at court and building of Sutton-Col- shul, (where he was bom and buried, and intending to try conclusions there,) wasted all, or the greatest part. After the death of King Henry VIII. the state of religion being altered, after some time he surrendered the bishoprick into the hands of King Ed- ward VI., anno 1550. CHAPTER XVIII. The Bishops of Exeter after the Reformation. Upon his surrender, a learned divine. Miles Coverdale, a diligent preacher of the gospel, (who, in the time of King Henry VIII., had translated the Bible out of Hebrew into Enghsh, and for so doing was forced for safety to fly into Germany, to the Count Palatine, who greatly favoured him, but after King Henry's death returned, and ) was preferred to this church, and consecrated anno 1551 ; where, in the small time of his residence, (which was little more than three years,) although he were much envied and ma- hgned, yet continued he his exercise of preaching and lecturing, much be- nefitting the church thereby. But King Edward VI. being called to hea- ven, he was deprived and in much trouble for his rehgion, (whereof you may be more learnedly and largely informed elsewhere, if you desire it,) yet Chap. XVIII.] view of Devonshire. 17-3 by the often and earnest request of the King of Denmark he was sent again into Germany, to Heydelberg, to the Count Palatine, and there continued to the death of Queen Mary, when he eftsoons returned ; but by no persua- sions would he take his place again, though it was reserved for liini, and he much persuaded thereunto, but lived privately in London, continually using his talent while strength of body gave him abiUty, which was not long; and dying, was buried in St Magnus Church in London. His arms, quarterly gu. and or, per fess indented : in chief, a rose between two fleur-de- lis, in base a fleur-de-lis between two roses, all counterchanged. After the deprivation of Coverdale, Voysey was re- installed, yet lived not here but at the town of Sutton-Colshul, which he procured to be impropri- ated and made a market town, using divers other means to enrich the same; where dying, he was buried anno 1555. He gave, arg. on a cross sab., a hart's head couped, between four doves of the field on a chief azure, a cross flory between two roses, or. After him James Troublefield, alias Turljervile, supplied the place; a man very zealous in his religion, and reputed f ^ a courteous and mild disposition by nature, yet he expressed the contrary when Agnes Preist suff^ered in Southernhay for denying transubstantiation. After the death of Queen Mary he was deprived and lived privately and quietly without being trou- bled for his religion. The arms of his family were, arg. a lion ramp., gul. crowned, or. In the second year of Queen Elizabeth, William Alley, reader of the di- vinity lecture in Paul's, was elected and consecrated ; who, to outward ap- pearance, seemed austere, rough, harsh, and cynical; yet was indeed mild, affable, and courteous; in hospitality, bountiful: and at his table, pleasant. He governed near eight years, and died 1570; being buried in the choir of his own church. His coat, azure, a pale between two lions ramp., erm. crowned, or. William Bradbridge came hither from Salisbury, where he was dean, anno 1570. He lived at Newton-Ferrers; so far remoted from the city that it was very troublesome to his clergy that had occasions to attend him. He died suddenly, not one being present, and was brought to his church to be buried : the place in the north wall of his chancel, in the ninth year of his consecration, anno 1578. His ensigns, azure, a phcon arg. On the stone that covers him is this inscription, — z 174 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK II. Hie jacet reveiendus Pater Gulielmus Bradbridge, nuper Exon. Episcopus, Qui obiit 27 die Junii, Anno Domini 1578. To him succeeded John Woolton, a single canon, anno 1578, who was commended for his learning; yet it surpassed not politic vdsdom, for which he gave place to few of his predecessors. He governed fourteen years, and died the 14th of March, 1593, and was interred near the south wall of his choir, opposite to the door that enters the palace. Upon his stone is this engraven, — " Hie jacet reverendus ille Johannes Woolton, Exoniensis Episcopus, qui Praefuit huic ecclesiae annos 14. Obiit 14 die Martii, Anno Domini 1593." And upon his fair monument this epitaph, — " Johanni Wooltono, Episcopo Exon., natus in Whalia in agro Lancast. Quem ob ejus preestantcm in omni virtutis genere animum, inirari magis quam laudare licet. In quo fides, pietas, et religio cum doctrina certabant. Qui (vita sacrarum litcrarum studiis diligentissime acta, multseque doctrinee monu- mcntis posteritati relictis) hominomexuit Exonife, Mar. 14, Anno Domini 1593, iEtat. 57. Cui Margarita, filia moestissima, parcnti amantissimo ac bene me- renti posuit." On the dexter part of the monument, in a table, are these verses, — " Epitaphium in obitum reverendissimi Patris Johannis Woolton, Episcopi Exon. Hie jacet — hand jacet hie tumulo quem credis inesse; Terra nequit tantum contumulare virum. Ingenium, genium, mores, pietatis honores, Eloquiumque pium, busta perusta tegent. Falleris, ultonus tonus est sic spiritus unde Hoc nostri tonus est, coelicus orbe tonans." On the sinister part are certain Greek verses — sed hse non vident me. His arms, a lion ramp., jessant, a saltier engrailed gul. After him came hither Gervase Babington, translated from Llandaff in Wales, and was consecrated anno 1595. He was a sedulous preacher; and divers of his labours are extant in print. He sat only two years; yet that Chap, XVIIL] view of Devonshire. 175 short time made a mayme of the episcopal temporals incurable. He was removed hence to Worcester. The coat of the name, arg., ten torteauxes in pile, 4. 3. 2. 1. To him succeeded Doctor William Cotton, who was consecrated anno 1597. He governed the space of twenty-eight years with great commen- dation : to whom was granted authority in certain branches of the high com- mission-court, which he kept at Silverton, where he lived for the most part, and there died 26th August, 1621. His paternal ensigns, arg. a bend sab, between three ogresses. He was buried in the south ambulatory of his church under a fair marble stone, which hath this inscription, — "Depositum Willielmi Cotton, quondam Exon. Epi.: cujus vltam vicinuni monumentum indicabit. Obiit Aug. 26, Anno J 621." Near whereunto, in the wall of the choir, is erected a very fail* monument with his lively representation and this epitaph, — " Venentur titulos alii atque encomia captent, Tu propria virtute nites, dignissime proesul. Corda virum tumuli, tibi sunt epitaphia linguae, Virtutesque tuae tituli ; quae dissita multis Juncta tibi, zelus prudens, prudentia mista, Serpentum iunocua caute moderata columba, Foeta operumque fides, opera edita et abdita, mundo Abdita, (sic humilis pietas jubet,) edita coelo. Mite supercilium, facies augusta sereni, Vultus majestas frontis veneranda sereni, Ira fugax solem raro visura cadentem, Mensa benigna, domus patens, aditusque paratus, Condivit tua dicta lepos, gravitasque leporem, Pacificis placidus, tantum hostis seditiosis. Non tibi sublimi mores in sede superbi, Vita nee in prima (ut multis) fuit ima Cathedra, Praelatusque gregi, sed non elatus honore. A Paulo ad Petrum pia te Regina vocavit. Cum Paulo et Petro cceli Deus arce locavit. Sic Petrum Paulus, sic claves adjuvat ensis; Perge Petro plures mittere, Paule, tuos." Doctor Valentine Cary, the second of that illustrious family, Dean of Paul's, was consecrated anno 1621. In his short time the city was greatly and heavily infected %vith the pestilence, so that he lived not much at the 176 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK II. palace but in the country. He sat only six years. The arms of the house are, arg. on a bend sab., three roses of the first; his difference, a mullet. He was buried in the southern part of our lady's chapel, under a fair erected monument, with his effigies thereon and this brief remembrance, — " In memoriam Valentini Gary olim hujus Ecclesiae episcopi, qui obiit 10. die Jun. 1626. Sanguis Jesu Christi purgat me ab omni peccato." This monument and inscription was removed, and now standeth in the north wall of the choir, opposite to the vestry door. Now are we come to the period of our proposed purpose, to him that now sits at the helm to guide this ship in all weathers, as well storms and tem- pests, as calms and still waters; who is the sedulous and learned writer. Dr. Joseph Hall; of whose watchful and careful attendance, being oculatus tes- tis, I might speak freely and confidently, as of his most worthiest predeces- sors, following the counsel of Ovid, — " Principibus placuisse viris, non ultima laus est," It is praiseworthy, not in the meanest place, To be obsequious to men of worthy grace. But he stands so assuredly firm on the strength of his own worth, that my poor suffrage were but as the imperfect echo of a more perfect sentence, I will therefore proceed with this conclusion, — ^long may he supply the place. His ensigns, sab., three dogs' heads, erased arg. Wherein I seem to see a secret mystery; for be they ancient, it is a strange and true prediction; if neoteric, the wisdom of the learned heralds have, under an unvulgar symbol, expressed a rare and excellent conceit; for have not his learned labours and patient endeavours wrang off the heads of three barkers: the Papist, the Arminian, and the Separatist? CHAPTER XIX. The Bishops of Exeter since the present Author's time unto this day, October 20th, 1695, by John Prince. Bishop Hall, after he had well governed this church the space of fourteen years, was translated hence to Norwich, anno 1641, where he continued the Chap. XIX.] view of Devonshire. 177 title ; but notwithstanding his most exemplary piety, by the pretended saints of those times was deprived of the execution of the office of a bishop, and the revenues of his bishopric, unto the time of his death, which happened 8th September, 1656. He lieth buried in Hiem Church near Norwich. His immediate successor in this chair was Dr. Ralph Brownrig, born at Ipswich in Suffolk, and Master of Catharine- Hall in Cambridge. He was consecrated 3rd May, 18 Car. 1., anno 1642. Doctor Young, his old friend, preached the consecration sermon on those words, — " The waters are risen, O Lord, the waters are risen." And indeed the waters of our national troubles rose to so high a pitch that this very learned and holy pre- late had never the opportunity of being installed in his throne, or so much as to visit his diocese. Among those who gave this reverend prelate a liberal and noble entertainment, Thomas Rich, of Shunning, in Berks, esq., de- serveth with honour to be remembered. About a year before he died he was invited with much civility and respect to be preacher to both the Tem- ples, where he surrendered up his pious soul into the hands of God on the 7th December, 1659, in the 67th year of his age, having enjoyed the title of The Bishop of Exeter about eighteen years and a half. His remains lie in the Temple Church, buried at the charge of both Temples, where is a fair monument erected to him, with a very large inscription containing the his- tory of his life, too long to be here inserted. He bears, arg., a lion ramp., sab. gutty, or, lang. and arm. gu. between three crescents of the same. Dr. John Gauden, born in Essex, educated in Wadham College in Oxon, and Dean of Booking, was the next that succeeded in this chair. He was promoted by the kindness of King Charles II., in whose restoration he had been very zealous. He was installed 2nd December, anno 12. Car. 2,, 1660. He was an eloquent Apollos and mighty in word and doctrine. In him was such a copia verborum, and those so full, pregnant, and significant, joined with such an active fancy, as rarely accompanieth so soimd a judg- ment and so deep an understanding. The majesty and copiousness of his elocution, with the seriousness and greatness of his matter and spirit, did greatly command his auditory; and it might be as truly said of this prelate as of any other of his order, that he did dominari in concionibus. After he had well governed this church the short space of a year and half, he was, to the great reluctance of this whole diocese, translated hence to Worcester, 1662; and from thence, within a less compass of time, was he translated to 178 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [ BoOK II. heaven, anno 1 663, much lamented by the whole kingdom, and most of all by the church and the king, who was much concerned for him. He lieth interred in his cathedral church of Worcester. His bearuig is, azure, a chev. between three leopards' faces, or. The next to him was Dr. Seth Ward, bom in Hertfordshire, educated in Cambridge, where he was a member of Sydney College, from whence he was expelled for his loyalty : though afterwards he was chosen astronomy-pro- fessor in Oxford for his great skill and learning in the mathematics even in those worst of times. After the restoration he was made Dean of Exeter, and July 20th, anno 14. Car. 2., 1662, he was installed bishop of this church, where he presided with great honour about five years, and was then trans- lated hence to Salisbury, 1667 ; where he continued to the time of his death, which happened about the year of our Lord 1689. He was a prelate of very graceful presence, a ready utterance, a comprehensive mind, a conde- scending nature, and charitable disposition : witness that stately building, richly endowed, which in or near the close of his Cathedral of Salisbury, at his proper charge, he erected for necessitous clergymen's widows. His shield bears, azure, a cross flory, or. The next in succession to Bishop Ward was Dr. Anthony Sparrow, bom in Suffolk, and brought up in Cambridge, where he became Master of Queen's College ; from whence he was advanced, by the permission of God and the favour of King Charles II., to this episcopal throne, Nov. 23rd, 19 Car. 2., 1667. He was a great rituahst and a strict exactor of canonical conformity. After he had well governed this church the space of about nine years he was translated hence to Norwich, where he died anno 1685, and lieth interred in his own cathedral church. He bears, ermine, three roses, arg. seeded or. His immediate successor in this chair was Dr. Thomas Lamplugh, de- scended from a gentle family in the county of Cumberland. He had his education in Queen's College in Oxford, where he became principal of Alban Hall, Oxford. He was promoted also to the rich vicai'age of St. Martin's- in-the-Fields, near London, where he was King Charles II. 's parochial pas- tor, who liked him so well that he preferred him to the episcopal chair of this church anno 1676, unto which he was consecrated by Gilbert Lord Archbishop of Canterbury on the r2th of November the same year. He was a pious good man, and had one excellent property (among many others,) Chap. XIX.] view of Devonshire. 179 of a christian bishop, that he was a lover of hospitahty, which he expressed to all, especially to his clergy, whom he bid very welcome to his table. Hax-ing very well governed this church to a general satisfaction for the space of twelve years, upon the landing of the Prince of Orange (our present sovereign,) on the 5th Nov., 1 688, in Torbay in this county, Bishop Lamp- lugh the day following fled to London to King James II., which that prince took so very kindly that immediately he conferred upon him the Archbishop- ric of York, which had then lain void since the death of Archbishop Doll)en, near about the space of a year and half; he was installed the same month; but did not long enjoy that honour, for within three years continuance in that high throne, he was summoned to appear before an higher, anno 1691. He Heth interred in York Minster. He bears or, a cross flory, sable. Upon the translation hence of Dr. Lamplugh, our late bishop, to the see of York, Sir Jonathan Trelawny, baronet. Lord Bishop of Bristol, was, by the favour of King William and Queen Mary, removed hither. He was bom at Trelawny, in the county of Cornwall, of an ancient genteel family, and was the second son of Sir Jonathan Trelawny, hart. ; upon whose death and that of an elder brother, the title and estate descended upon this gen- tleman, after he was in holy orders and beneficed in his native country. He had his education in Oxford, and was some time a student of Christ Church there. He was preferred to the see of Bristol by the favour of King James II.: and afterwards committed by him (to his never dying honour,) to the Tower of London, together with the Archbishop of Canterbury, the Bishop of St. Asaph, the Bishop of Ely, the Bishop of Chichester, the Bishop of Bath and Wells, and the Bishop of Peterborough, for the grievous crime (as 'twas aggravated by the popish party,) of petitioning his majesty that their clergy might be excused from publishing his late declaration of Uberty of conscience (as they were thereby obliged,) two Lord's Days following, in time of divine service, in their parish churches. For this fact they were committed to prison, indicted, and brought to trial ; and after a long hear- ing, being zealously if not maliciously prosecuted on the one hand, and no less bravely and learnedly defended on the other, they were all acquitted, to the confusion of popeiy and the general satisfaction of the whole kingdom. His lordship governs well, but that he is pleased to keep his residence chiefly at his house at Trelawny ; less convenient to the occasions of his clergy and the pubhc exercise of charity and hospitality. 180 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK II. CHAPTER XX. Of the Inferior Dignitaries of the Church of Exeter. .-^/•j-v'^./s.-*. ^/^./^/^/^/^/•v We wiU now reckon up the other dignitaries of this church, which are four. — The Dean hath priority, (first instituted by Bishop Brewer, and his name, to whom he impropriated Colaton-Ralegh and the manor of Braunton, which continues with him at this day;) and hath the name of Braunton-Dean. He is principal in the chapter which is assembled by him, yet hath but a single voice. The arms belonging to this dignity are, azure, a stag's head cabos- sed and insigned with a cross, arg. He that now supphes the place is Dr. Wilham Peterson, [Dr. Annesley,] younger son of the late Earl of Anglesey. (1695.) The next is the Chauntor, ordained by Bishop Qui vile; (the first that supphed the place was Walter Lichfield, who was slain in coming timely to matins;) to which he impropriated Paynton and Chudleigh. He hath charge of the choir of singers. His ensigns, arg. a saltire azure charged with a fleur-de-lis, or. The present Chauntor, William Cotton. Now George Hooper, Dean of Canterbury. (1695.) The Chancellor is third; appointed also by Bishop Quivile; to whom he allotted Newlin and Stoke- Gabriel. His arms, gul. a saltire arg. between four crosslets or. Dr. Laurence Burnel hath the office. Now Dr. James, Vicar of Harber- ton. (1695.) The last is the Treasurer, to whose care the ornaments, bells, burials, buildings, and treasure are committed. The arms, gul. a saltire engrailed between four leopards' faces, or. Dr. Robert Hall, son of the bishop, is the Treasurer. Dr. Nic. Hall, born at Bridford in this county; son of Emanuel Hall. (1695.) There belong hereunto also four archdeaconries, which are not called dignitates sed quasi dignitates, and yet are termed oculi episcopi, — the bishop's eyes. The first in place is Exeter, which visits nine rural deaneries, and in the Chap. XX.] view of Devonshire^ 181 148 spiritual preferments or parishes. He that hath now the place is Thomas Barret, m. a.: — Edward Lake, d. d. (1695.) Next is Cornwall, and in it eight deaneries, and therein 1 60 spiritual preferments. The now archdeacon is WiUiam Parker: — now Edward Drewe, borne at Grange in this County, m. a. (1695.) The third is Totnes, wherein are nine deaneries and 121 incumbents pre- ferred. He that now visits there is Edward Cotton, m. a. — At present, George Snell, son of Canon Snell, m. a. (1695.) The fourtl^and last is Barum, or Barnstaple, having under his charge six deaneries and 114 spiritual preferments, wherein are included prebends as in the rest. William Helhar hath the place: — now William Read, born in Exeter. (1695.) There is also a sub-dean, who is a choice man of the church, and ac- counted (as I take it,) as the penitentiary of the same. He that now holds the place is Canon Sprat: — now Lancelot Blackburne. (1695.) Of twenty-four prebendaries there are sixteen resident, for so many were there houses provided. But I think of late, some better consideration them thereunto moving, that number is lessened and brought to nine. Those other houses are otherwise employed, and there is only one single canon, which is William Hutchinson, d. D.: — now John Gilbert, Rector of Ply- mouth, born in Northampton. (1695.) The lord bishop's palace is joining to the south-side of the church, and the treasurer's to the north part, and have each a several entrance into ths church from their houses ; but the dean and other canons have their houses in compass about the church-yard, or close, (so called because enclosed by six several gates from the body of the city,) according to a composition be- tween the dean and chapter, and mayor and commonalty. The vicars choral were first instituted by Bishop Leofricus : thev were his chapter, and of them the archdeacon of Exeter [ Precentor,] was presi- dent or principal. They had divers benefactors of the succeeding bishops, as Bishop Brentingham, who finished the building of Calendar- Hay; Bishop Grandisson increased their livehhood, the like did Bishop Lacy, and Bishop Henry Marshal purchased the patronage and lordship of Woodbury, which he impropriated and bestowed on them, which to this age they possess. Bishop Oldam reduced them to the keeping of commons,* and for the * He should have stated that Bishop Brentingham in 13b8 had enjoined them to live 2a ^^'•^ VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK II. maintenance thereof he gave them certain revenues and impropriated the rectory of Cornwood. CHAPTER XXI. The Monuments and Epitaphs in Saint Peter's Cathedral, Exon. I have endeavoured to give you a compendious abridgement of what oc- curred in my visit, yet hath it been more enlarged than I wished it, but I could do no otherwise, for I meant to present vou with all material passages I could find; and was the more precise in particidars, for that I purposed it should be my last: yet I am assured I have left some articles untouched though not unenquired after : but with all dutiful respects I will leave them for those that shall follow my steps with better authority and more ability and sufhciencv. Now having retained you thus long in this sacred place for devotion, (and fasting, as I suppose,) I seriously meant to have given you a sweet refec- tion of choice epitaphs, to have stayed your stomach for a while, until some other gave you a better banquet; for the variety is so great, as the chapels, choir, nave, ambulatories, cloisters, and towers' floors are almost paved \^-ith them; and such a collation would, (I suppose) for their variety of smacks and tastes, have been agreeable and pleasing to most men's palates and appetites; as also for that I must tender their perpetual preservation, and come with a settled purpose to redeem them from the devouring teeth of age, which hath swallowed up some wholly, and eaten deeply into others, (as you find already in my catalogue.) I wiU be no niggard of what I have; and more you might have had, but that they are kept close prisoners lately, ( in regard of my desire,) or shut up as a concealment, by some new-come inferior officer, that they cannot be visited bv those that tender their per- petual preservation. I would have procured them for you at a more than in comiiiunity, — that Bishop Lacy had appropriated to them the church of Cornwood on the 6th of June, 1 432, towards their better support, — that Bishop Oldam bad assigned to them the churches of Melan and Westleigh on the 10th of February, 1508 — 9, and three days later the chapel of Clist St. Gabriel, and the hospital of the Holy Ghost at Werland, near Totnes. — G. O , — P. J. Chap. XXI.] view of Devonshire. 183 valuable consideration, yet maugre the turpitude of envy, you shall have some which I resei^ed long since in expectancy of some fit opportunity to vent them: such are these I here set before you; take what you hke, and much good may it do you. In our lady-chapel, (with which I will begin, as Leofricus did in his build- ing,) in the higher end thereof, stands a fair monument erected for the Lady Doddridge, with her Hvely shape represented in alabaster, with this inscrip- tion, — " Hie jacet domina Dorothea uxor Johannis Doddridge militis, unius justiti- ariorum domini regis ad placita coram rege tenenda assignati: et filia Amisii Bampfield militis: qua; obiit prime martii Anno Domini 1614." " Mortua jam statua est illustris foemina vivens Viva typus verae quae pietatis erat, Hanc igiturpietas terrse deplorat ademptam Huic pietas caeli regna tenenda dedit." Apostrophe ad spectatorem, — "Mens mea quamgremio corpus conceperat annos Biuos terdeiios, filia parta Deo est. Mors Lucina fuit; Lueem dedit ilia t'ruendam Coeli, quo primae luceo stella notae." "As when a curious clock is out of frame A workman in small pieces takes the same, And mending what amiss is to be found The same rejoins, and makes it true and sound ; So God this lady into two parts took ; Too soon her soul her mortal corpse forsook ; But by his might at length her body sound Shall rise rejoin'd unto her soul now crown'd. Till then they rest, in earth and heaven sunder'd. At which conjoin'd, all such as knew them wonder'd." " His matri charae, cor gnati triste parentat Mortem ejus celebrans, qua sibi vita data est," [Caetera desiderantujr, in M.S.] 184 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE, [BoOK II. CHAPTER XXII.. An Epilogue or Conclusion on the View of Exeter. Thus have I communicated to you (far unlike a scholar, but) as a poor travelling pilgrim passing on his way, what I have seen and observed of the antiquities, names, situations, government, and other things which I found remarkable, worthy your view; registering also all such famous men, whether natives, or by some other good occasion here seated, whose virtues and good quahties have merited much better than to be raked up in the dust of obli- vion; wherein, how great soever my painful endeavours have been to yield you profitable or pleasurable content, yet be it far from my purpose to en- dear them to any such height as to think to gain applause of any; for I cannot perform sufficient to satisfy my own private liking, much less am I assured I shall do it to others, chiefly the inhabitants; for of them divers will say, (and that rightly, for I cannot gainsay it,) that I have observed nothing but common and ordinary things. But let them be pleased to take this answer, that strange and wonderful relations and things of admiration are to be expected from places far remote and newly discovered, and not among ourselves. And for myself, to whom nature hath given a weak in- sight in high and intricate matters, do appeal from the common suffrage to the most learned and judiciously accomplished, whereof (the compass considered,) this city is very fruitful; for they rightly understand that it is not in every man's power to procure the liberty of any imprisoned antiquity or concealment where there are so many vigilant Arguses, so many bars and keys to hinder entrance, even into public places, (without a bountiful hand,) either in church or common hall. And in this my pilgrimage I could never win a consort or assistant, only la- borious Mr. Hooker forewent me long since, and his steps little apparent; and he only chalked the way, (as Scoggin did his wives' to the church,) making the longest way about, the nearest, because the fairest, yet the more doubt- ful, obscure, and uncertain to strangers; (for broken and independent pieces and fragments have little light, pleasure, or profit in them ;) yet question- less', having all assistance that either clergy or laity could yield him, and himself an officer of the city, had he lived some longer time he would have illustrated the same with more than ordinary method and bare relation, such Chap. XXIII.] view of Devonshire. 1^^ as you have received from me: for in my journey through this city I have rowed my simple bark (full fraught with desire to manifest to the world the esteem I have for it,) against wind and tide, and endured the cross currents of slighting, the storms of neglect, the rocks of opposition, (wanting all his assistance,) with my private strength, and am now disembogued and clear out at quay-gate; and if I have failed of elegant style and pleasant discourse, marvel not at all, for where I lost that, some would have lost all patience with it: and yet I cannot forbear, but freely tell you I could have remem- bered many pleasant and merry accidents which have happened here, both ancient and modern; but I will forget all such jests, whose memory revived may lay an aspersion on some deceased, whose posterity now hve in worship and reputation; I shall more wiUingly enlarge in due commendation of their well deservings : for if I lean on any side, it shall be on the right hand, not on the left: for the poet saith, — "Of what is spoken ever make the best, Bear the defect of neighbour and of friend; Cover their fault, publish it not, at least: Ready to praise and slow to reprehend." Here at the quay the citizens land their commodities, which are brought up by water- course, newly made by a device of sluices; for the wears had formerly stopped their passages on the river, whereof elsewhere hath been spoken. CHAPTER XXIII. Of the progress of the River Exe below Exeter. And now we have left this fair city and -are returned to our sweet and pleasant river of Exe, on which you may solace yourself for a while, if you please, and acquaint me how you conceive of your entertainment : if it be not to your contentment the fault is in the cook, that the sauce was not delicious; the meat was good, yet I could have wished both better; but wishing being but an idle and vain wailing for what we want, and to no 186 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK II. purpose, I will seek some better means for your recreation by countiy con- tentments; which being matters of smidry natures, may someway be pleas- ing and answerable to the several disposition and variable humour of every complexion. This matter will require some pains and is worthy thereof, and demands a good judgment and much leisure; but since nature hath denied me both, I will make a brief and bare relation of what I find, and leaving all unnecessary vagaries, take only the choice of things; for the multitude and variety of matters which present themselves to our view is so copious, that if a good election be not made, and those related with brevity, it would oppress the hearer and reader with too tedious and heavy a bur- den. But here is an object for your sight not unworthy the noting. — Yonder stands Floyers-Hays, the seat, by a long descent, of the generous name of Floyer; who, if the Earl of Devon (or his heirs general, his chief lord,) were here present, would not fail to tender his service, (by himself or his tenant,) decently apparalled, with a fair sweet towel on his shoulder, a flagon of vnne in the one hand, and a silver bowl in the other, and so offer to serve his lordship with drink : for by that tenure he is said to hold his lands. This gentleman married Pole : his father, Martin : his grandfather, Kirke. We pass on the left hand Lark-beer, long held by the ancient family of Hull; lately of Smith. Next is Heniton, (so called of old,) now Wear, of the wears there set cross the river, long since the seat of Augustin de Baa, alias Bathe, who had great possessions in his time; but since the fourth year of Edward III., anno 1348, [1330,] it hath been enjoyed by the Hollands, as their e^ddence testifieth; whose seals thereunto annexed express their ancient armories, viz, azure semee de fleur-de-lis, a lion sal. gar. arg. (A vahant knight after some com- bat or martial exercise, recreating himself in a field of lUies.) Their first ancestor was a younger brother to Sir Thomas HoUand, one of the noble society of the first founders of the royal Order of the Garter. This married the coheir of Thorn : his father. Pollard : his grandfather, Wotton. Here falls unto us the streamlet Wonford, whose first spring is near Pols- loe, sometime a nunnery of Black Nuns, dedicated to St Catharine, valued at the sun-ender at £170. 2s. 3^d. And here I am put in mind to con- sider and seriously to meditate upon the fore-intentions of mortal men's purposes in thinking of the first founder of this fabric, endeavouring to make Chap. XXIII.] view of Devonshire. 187 use thereof (if you will join with me,) for ourselves, not in any case to question him, but that we may be informed of this world's vanities. If this free and bountiful gift and religious action were done by the foun- der with a charitable design and pious intent for the service of God and good of his church, (as I verily believe, and so are all obliged by the rules of Christianity to do,) no doubt is to be made but he hath his reward, (his sheaves in his bosom:) but if he did it to the end and pm-pose only to per- petuate and illustrate the memory of his name to posterity, he hath utterly lost his aim, and his desire is frustrate; for it is no where (that I can find,) remembered. I wmII thhik him therefore a true disciple of Bernardus de Laudrico, that famous school-man, and by him taught not to expect merit or reward for any pious or religious work we do in churches, chapels, monasteries, hospi- tals, bridges, or such like, which we build, repair, or bestow any ornaments on ; if we deck and adorn them by setting up our names or armories there- on, or any thing that may be a means to perpetuate or eternize our name. Then this riveret nameth the manor of Wonford, which is thought to 2:ive denomination to the greatest hundred in our shire ; which for his large extent and multiplicity of parishes is divided into three parts, by the names of East, West, and South-M'^onford : the honour of which was sometime in the te- nure of Sir Simon de Montague, whose Son was Earl of Salisbury; and after of Courtenays, Earls of Devon. This stands in the parish of Heavi- tree ; which dull name shows it not ancient, but seems to come from sor- rowful matter, which we term heavy and sad: I take it therefore so to be named for being the place where malefactors are ordinarily executed after the assizes and sessions; for whose more christian-like burial there is (in a spacious large tread- way near the place of execution,) a plot of ground en- closed with strong stone walls, and land appropriated to buy them shrouds. And that the memorv of a woman so charitably disposed mav not be utterlv overwhelmed with oblivion, I think it fit here to record her: it was the work of Jane the rehct of .John Tuckfield, of the city of Exeter; a rehgious woman, another Dorcas: and as in this, so in other pious actions, showed her good works to the glory of God. The manor was anciently the land of Kellv. We pass by Matford, where Sir George Smith erected a house for liis posterity. He married Walker, and one of the coheirs of Viall: his son. Sir Nicholas, (of whom I may say witli Quadrigarius, optimi minime diur- 188 VIEW OP DEVONSHIRE. [ BoOK II, nant, — the best men are of least continuance, for he was taken away in the chief of his time:) Yet here methinks but little wonder needs : Do not we gather rather herbs than weeds ? Do not we take the timber for our turn, And leave the dockrels in their time to burn ? And in the shambles, who is he but would Be rather sped of young flesh than of old? with Horsey: his son, (whose issue soon followed him,) a daughter of the Lord Lambert of Ireland. Near unto it is a new and fair erected house built by Radford, and of him named Mount-Radford : from him to Doddridge and Hancock. On our right hand, on the other side of Exe, we have a little supply from a riveret coming from Whitestone, Saxum Album ; (taking name perchance from the whited towers so conveniently standing that it is a mark to ship- ping at sea;) which Bohun, Earl of Hereford and Essex, held under Edward II. as having the wardship of the heir of John de Powderham. In this stands Heath-Barton, held some time by Heth; by Langdon; by Dowrish; and now by a branch of the dignous family of Pollard, by match with the heir of Dowrish. Then it cometh to the parish of St. Thomas the Apostle, whereat Barley inhabiteth one of the ancient family of the Berrys. Of Floyers-Hays is spoken already. And here, in regard modest, wise, and grateful antiquity, hath not made use only of the thankful and affectionate actions of men, but also of brute animals, and have recorded sundry strange discourses of rare deeds done by them, even to admiration their nature rightly considered. In imitation of whom I may not forbear to show you of one that happened in this later time, not yet out of aged people's remembrance; answerable to, if not ex- ceeding, Xantippus's dog, of whom Plutarch, in the life of Themistocles, maketh remembrance in this sort, — that for love he bore to his master swam by the side of his galley from Athens to Salamina; and at his arrival, his breath faihng him, he presently died upon the promontory, where his master caused him to be buried, and the place to this day is called Cynoscenia — the dog's grave. If such a tale, of such a dog, for such a slender cause, be not unworthy the pen of such a famous historiographer, let me not be thought idly disposed to tell you a tale to pass the time (far more worthy remem- Chap. XXIII.] view of Devonshire. 189 brance, especially in this ungrateful age in which such thankful deeds are seldom performed by men, much less therefore to be expected from brutish unreasonable creatures,) of a dog of Mrs. Cove, or Cave, of this parish. — This dog, bred up of a puppy and fed by his mistress' hand, always in her presence and very familiarly, in time waxed old together with her : she falling sick, keeping her chamber and bed, the cur would never go from her, but be always at hand by her, as ready to give such attendance and service as nature enabled him for. She dying, the dog would not, nor could be enforced to, leave the room, but carefully watched the corpse until it was brought forth to be buried ; at which, like a doleful mourner, he fol- lowed it to the church, and the solemnity finished, settled himself upon the grave, not to be enticed thence by any means that could be used, until some of the house forcibly carried him thence and shut him up close prisoner in the chamber. In all this time he would take no kind of sustenance that was offered him ; but a casement of the window casually left open, he got forth and to the grave again, where he soon died. This seems strange to me, yet the Lord de la Scale reports a history much more admirable, of a courtier's dog in some part of France. This man being in the king's special favour, was envied of many, but especially of a companion of his; and for that, or some other malicious purpose, taking op- portunity when they were both single in a soUtaiy place, traitorously mur- dered and buried him. The party slain had his dog with him, which lay long on his grave till hunger enforced his retui'n home, where being seen and re- membered by some of his master's familiars, (who thought the dog had lost him,) they, according to the old proverb, " love me, and love my dog," caused him to be fed: so he presently returns to the grave, and there stays until hunger constrains him home again. Doing this often, the friends of the deceased began to suspect somewhat in regard of the long absence of his master; always believing that the dog sought him: in which considera- tion they resolve to follow him, and so they did : he leads them to the grave : they dig and find the murdered corpse, which with due rites they caused to be interred elsewhere; all which done, the dog follows his master's friends. Some while after the murderer returns again to the court ; the dog espying him, knows him; flies eagerly at him, and so eagerly pursueth him, that suspicion began to grow in many men's minds that there was some evil in the man, for the dog would never leave pursuing and vexing him. Hereof 2b 190 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [ BoOK II. the king advertised, commanded the man to be strictly examined. He pro- testeth innocency; yet the cur ceaseth not bawhng and barking at him; whereby he was with a general consent thought guilty. It proceeded so far that the king, for the better trial, ordered that it should be decided by a combat between the man and dog; and the dog had the day. This history (saith he,) is curiously painted in a certain castle in France; and the work, wearing by age, hath been often renewed by the king's command: worthy, saith the author, to be set forth in pictures of brass that it never perish: and farther addeth, " I should rather erect a monument and epitaph to this dog than to Sultan Solyman." Though I have told you a tale or two of dogs, yet it is not my purpose to write a treatise of dogs, or the isle of dogs, for I am presently come out of France, and am with the riveret at Alphington, which John de Nevil held under Henry III., and Theobald Nevil in the time of Edward II. Since which time it hath flourished under the Courtenays. We must proceed to Exminster, anciently Exanminster, pronounced Ex- mister ; which King Alfred many years since bequeathed to a younger son of his; but, in the time of Henry VII. and VIII., the seat of Henry Cour- tenay. Marquis of Exeter, and son of WiUiam Earl of Devon and Katharine his wife, seventh daughter to King Edward IV. He was created Marquis of Exeter by king Henry VIII., 18th of June, 1525, and designed higher preferments. But his high parentage in time brought him great troubles, and subject to many suspicions, as affecting change of state, and assisting Reginald Pole, after Cardinal Pole, of the title of St. Mary of Cosmeden, then a fugitive; practising with the emperor and pope against his native countr)^; was judicially arraigned, found guilty, and condemned, with some other, and executed the 30th of Henry VIII., 1538. Here stands Peimont, commonly Peamoor, which Wilham le Speke pos- sessed under Edward II., in the minority of Thomas Fitz-Ralph; but now the seat of Henry Tothill, who was lately high sheriff of this county, and married [ Mary] the heir of Spark : his father, Geoffry Tothill, recorder of Exeter, married Dillon: his two coheirs, Tothill and Norleigh. I have read that John Giffard held Ackot of Ahce de Tothill in the 20th year of King Edward I. Passuig over the river we find Toppisham, now called Apsham ; for which lordship King Henry I. gave Meriet and CoUiton in exchange. It is now. Chap. I.] view of Devonshire. 191 by means of the stoppage of the river between it and the city, (for thereby the merchants unload most of their commodities at that quay,) and some other means, grown to very good state; and the river Clyst, as it emptieth itself into our river, makes it a peninsula, or head land. END OF THE SECOND BOOK. THE THIRD BOOK TREATETH OF THE EASTERN DIVISION OF THIS COUNTY. CHAPTER I. Of the Circuit of the River Clyst. We may fetch the original of this river beyond Plimtree, perchance Palm- Tree, of a fair yew tree used to be carried by some instead of palm; and such a tree is there now, curiously cut and kept like a pjTamis, but circu- lar and gradatim. Villa de Phmtree was possessed by Nicholas de la Lude in the age of Henry HI.; and under Edward H. by Bartholomew Clyvedon; and by Hungerford in the time of Henry VI. Tale-Court was in these later days held by Goodwine and Stump; and now divided among many. Ford-Moor, the ancient seat of Ford, who married Ashford : his father. Ball. This river giveth name to more parishes, villages, manors, and farms, than any in this country. Lawrence- Clist, or CUst St. Lawrence, having that addition for distinction from others. Clist-Hidon, (now Clehidon,) being the possessions of William de Hidon in the 6th of Edward HL, and in a latter age of Roger Novant; and the former was the land of de Valletort. 192 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOkIII. Rockbear steps in between this and the next Chst, and was in the tenure of Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Glocester, in Edward I.'s time. Cliston, or Broad-CUst, which with four parishes more make a hundred, the honour whereof, as also of Clist-^House, had Sir Roger Novant in his time; after, Chudleigh; now Count Arundell, Baron of Wardour. Brock- well, anciently Cromwell's; now Chappie's. Killerton, alias KiUerinton, was long since held by Punchardon; but after many changes it came to Drewe, and now is Ackland's. Tyle-House, which a generous name of Tyle long inherited ; now Reynel. Ash-Clist, held by Esse; after by John Vawtort. Clist-Gerard, the land of William Gerard; of Dennis; of Manwaring, and Hele. Southbrook, the inheritance of OUver Dynant, or Dinham; but passed to another tribe. Clist-Honiton, aUas Hiniton, possessed by Courtenay, who held also the ma- nor of Whimple; for it bare his name and was named Whimple Courtenay. Then have we on your left hand CUst-Moys, now called Poltimore; which Sir Richard de Poltimore held and his predecessors, and posterity for a while after him. From him to Sir Simon de Montague. But since the time of Edward I. it hath been the patrimony of the well-descended, well- respected, well-beloved family of the Bampfields ; who is lord of the whole parish and patron withaU : his mansion-house seated as it were in the navel thereof, well provided for all commodities for hospitality. By the match of his pre- decessors he draws his pedigree from Baron St. Maur; who likewise derived his from the heirs of the Lord Zouch, of Ashby-de-la-Zouch; who descend- ed from Alan Viscount Rohan in Little Britain, and Constantia his wife, daughter to Conon le Gros ( Earl of Britain,) and Maud his wife, natural daughter to King Henry L This gentleman married with Drake: his fa- ther, a sister of the Lord Cliftons: and his grandfather, Sydenham, Next in our way is Pin-hoo, (or, as the young grammarian said, splin- trumqms;) Pinckhoo, or Pinhaws; wherein stood Pincourt; a fair mansion- house, now utterly demolished, or ruinated, I know not which. It was the seat of Stretch, of which progeny was Sir John Stretch, in Edward II. 's days, and another of the same name in Richard II. 's time; one of whose coheirs brought it to Cheyney, alias de Casineto, or de Caneto; whose race lived in great estimation for some few descents, and then his patrimony was divided among four distaffs. [Spinsters.] Chap. I.] view of Devonshire. 193 I cannot yet leave Pin, for it was very famous for being tlie birth-place of that admirable man, both for vutue and learning, John Reynolds, of whose excellent endowments I should speak at large had not his encomium filled already great volumes registered by many famous quiUs; yet briefly this I say, after his first breeding in country schools, he was matriculated in Cor- pus Christi College in Oxford, whereof in short time he was elected Fellow, and there took the degree of Doctor of Divinity ; in which his proceedings and progress, his profound learning and singular piety, was so admired, that he was said to be the glory of the University, the honour of England, and the mirror of Europe, and an elected trumpet to publish the divine word of truth truly. His countenance was the perfect representation of a right mortified man. He was, throughout all his life, a rare example of piety, and a dili- gent, earnest, and yet mild writer agamst the pope; whose volumes pub- lished may be envied, railed at, taxed, and opposed, but not confuted. Death took him away in a little more than the midst of his course, for the world was unworthy of him. He desired no high preferment in the church, nor, being ofi"ered, would accept it : only for a while was he Dean of Lin- coln, but soon resigned it. Then was he President of Corpus Christi Col- lege, and Reader of the Divuiity Lecture, which he performed to his last period, anno 1602. He escaped, or, rather, God preserved him, from a most iminent danger among the archers as he walked to take the air. He passed to a better life 21st May, 1607, much lamented, much wanted, and worthily buried in the chapel of the college, with his true representation and this superscription, — "Virtuti sacrum Johanni Rainoldo, sanctae Theologiae Doctori, eruditione pietate incomparabili, hujus coUegii praesidi qui obiit May 21, A. D. 1607, ^tatis suae 58, Johannes Spenser, auditor, successor, virtutum et sanctitatis ad- mirator. H. M, amoris ergo posuit." Another wrote under his effigy these verses, — "Cum vibrat doctee Reynoldus fulmina linguae Romanus trepidat Jupiter ac merito." The fluent phrase of Reynolds' speech, As lightning, shined clear; Which made the demi-god of Rome Not causelessly to fear. 194 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK III. We come now to Sowton, or rather South-Town; but anciently CUst- Fomizon, (but more anciently Clist St. Michael,) then the land of Richard de Fomizon, under Henry III., but by his daughter and heir. Esse, alias Ash, was inducted there, and yet there continues: the only remainder of that long hving name and clareous progeny of Esse, who is said to derive his name from the river Esse, now Exe, and he Ash; whose well-known ensigns of generosity are quartered by many families of this county and elsewhere; as none more vulgar, and therefore it shall not need to blazon them here. Of this tribe, besides many worthy tribes and famous men, (for it was a veiy fruitful stirpe, and transmitted or transplanted itself into many several places, and flourished in great state,) there was in the time of King John one very rarely learned and famous, for those times; a dihgent writer, named Simon de Fraxino, alias Esse or Ashe. But I cannot yet leave Mr. Fomizon. I must have another bout with him, and tell you how he was served with a pretty prank.* This Mr. Fomizon was not only lord of the whole parish, but patron also of the church, having the perpetuity of the donation of the benefice, which he lost somewhat strangely, for the variety thereof and cunning therein, not altogether unworthy of your ears. Bishop Walter Bronscombe having gotten the manor house and demesne of Chst-Sachevile, (now Clist-Bishop,) but how you may chance to know when we come to it, and builded a fair pa- lace thereon, and living there, a friar, his chaplain and confessor, fell sick and died, and was by right to have been buried at Farringdon, the palace standing in that parish; but because the church stood somewhat far remoted off, the ways dirty and deep, the weather wet, (or some other pohtic cause not divulged,) the bishop wovdd have the corpse to be carried to Clist-Fo- mizon Church, there to be buried, (which was somewhat nearer, yea border- ing upon the bishop's demesne,) the two parishes being divided only by a standing pool. It was not kept so secret but Mr. Fomizon was advertised thereof, and that maugre his teeth a new Uch-way (a thing of some mo- ment in those days,) should be made over his land. He therefore muster- eth up his servants and tenants, and with that strength stands at the bridge that severed the bishop's lands and his, and when the corpse was brought * The pretty prank is fortunately refuted by the Deed of Purchase and Exchange pre- served in the Bishop's Register, and attested by the most respectable names in the county of Devon. It is printed in p. 34, vol. 2, Ecclesiastical Antiquities of Devon.— G. O., — P. J. Chap. I.] view of oevonshirk. 195 forbiddeth them to enter upon his land. The lord-bishop's men respected it not, but notwithstanding the denial press forward. The gentleman with- stands them, at length the contention grew so eager and hot that my lord's friar was thrown into the water. The bishop's men for the present there let him lie; but the ensuing night, very secretly, took him up and buried him. But my lord takes the matter tenderly and as a very heinous offence, that a reUgious father — a holy friar — his own chaplain and confessor, should be so unreverently cast into the water; and so, instead )f going to heaven by the way of purgatory, might chance light on Charon's boat, and so be carried by water another course ; sends the next day (to have him brought back again with) many of his brethren, the friars, and with all ce- remonies fitting. But here sprung a miracle, the friar was that night taken away by the angels and carried with Enoch into heaAcn, and so was canon- ized a saint; yet his lordship was not therewith satisfied, but continues his spleen against Mr. Fomizon; and first by excommunication, and so succes- sively by other violent and exhorbitant vexations, (too long and tedious to be rehearsed,) so troubled and tormented him, that after much contesting and stronger patience, the gentleman, unable to hold out, was enforced to prostrate himself to the bishop, which could not be accepted without the mediation of great friends; yet their intercession and his humble submission was not powerful enough to expiate the offence and procure pardon and his favour, but that he must give him the patronage of the parish, and a piece of land therewith to be annexed to his manor and demesne of Clist. The Bishop of Exon is still the patron thereof. It might be thought somewhat hard measure and a dear purchase to pay so great a fine for his lordship's friendship; and some of you would have been, per chance, hardly drawn unto it, yet I commend his patience therein; for considering how he dealt with the canons for Cornish-wood, and Mr. Sachvile for the manor of Chst, he did not amiss to do as the pheasant did to the gripe, when he took out two of his young, when he might have taken all and himself together; for, as the poet saith, he thanked him for his favourable kindness : — "A pair of young: ones taketh from his nest, And leaves the fearful recreant the rest; Who gives him thanks his goodness would so do, That might taketh airy and the old ones too." 196 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK III. In our way is Farringdon, whence was the long continued race of Farring- don, which had in this age a fatal catastrophe by the untimely and unfortu- nate death of a fair conditioned, well qualified, but most unhappy gentleman, who, wanting patience to endure the untimely loss (as he took it, and as I am told,) of a most loving and beloved wife, cut off his days violently and strangely. He had the right spirit of an ancient Roman; among whom, had he lived, he should have had equal honour and commendation with Pubha Cornelia Arria, so highly magnified and extolled by their writers for having lived twenty years with her husband without strife or jarring, when he died, at his funeral cast herself into his grave, and so ending her life was buried with him : and these had hardly lived together the eighth part of that time. But how honourably soever the Romans thought of such actions, yet differs it much from christian virtue; and reprovable, together with Ra- zias' audacious resolution, though approved of, 2 Machabees, c. 14, and all books that allow of it are Apocryphal. We wiU conclude with the di- vine poet, — " For no men ought to offer wilful force To his own self, or his own soul divorce ; But patiently attend the cheerful call, Then to God's hands gladly surrender all." In this parish is the lordship styled CHst-Bishop to this day, though it has lost that lord and found another. In the time of Henry III. it was called CUst-Sachvile, of the then possessor; of which name there were simdry worshipful famiUes in this country, whereof divers of our gentry are de- scended. They gave three several charges in their armories, and yet per chance all of one original. But this Mr. Sachvile of whom I am speaking was outed of his house and land by Walter Bronscombe, the then lord bishop of this diocese, by so subtle and artificial wit- craft as I think it weU worthy the relating, for it excelled in cunning guile the getting of Sowton patronage, formerly spoken of. When St. Lewis King of France, of whom the heroical poet saith — " He that to free from captive fury fell, The fields where erst our captain conquer'd hell, (Courageous zeal setting his soul on fire, Led armed France against the Asian ire:) Chap. I,] view of Devonshire. 197 invited our noble Prince Edward, after King of England by the name of Edward I., of whom words of greater valour and merit might be truly sung and said than of St. Lewis, to a holy pilgrimage for the rescue of Aeon, alias Acres, or Ptolomais, (then by the Saracens beleagured,) and recovery of Hierusalem, which, by permission of King Henry his father, (with Queen Eleanor, his most famous, and desei-vedly so entitled wife,) Edmund King of Sicily, his younger brother, four earls, more barons, knights, esquires, and gentlemen, he royally performed and underwent with great danger and honour. This esquire, Mr. Sachvile, put himself (with a noble and zealous spirit) to sei-ve the prince in these holy wars; and to furnish himself the better, en- gaged this manor in mortgage to the Lord Bishop Bronscombe: but to make all things clear, perspicuous, and plain, among other covenants in the deed this proviso was especially inserted by Walter Bronscombe, that if Mr. Sachvile did, at his return, redeem it, he should not only repay the prin- cipal, but also all such charges as should be bestowed in his absence about the maintenance and reparation of the house, and improvement of the land. This worthy soldier was no sooner set forward in his voyage, but my lord travelled as earnestly in building an extraordinary large and fair house, in- deed a palace for a bishop, and too large and sumptuous for an esquire ; and repaired the outlets and fences about the whole farm in most exquisite manner, and there settled himself to inhabit, (for it was a seat very conve- nient for him, being but an hour's riding from his palace at Exeter.) After some years Mr. Sachvile returns, and viewing his old seat thus metamor- phosed both in lustre and amplitude, was even overjoyed with the good lord bishop's kindness, and with all convenient speed procured the money and tendered it to his lordship, desiring the restitution of his land. It was rea- son, and the good lord denied it not: but Walter Bronscombe, that was always present with the bishop, took a book out of his bosom wherein was set down all the charges, wages, and expenses, (in full and large man- ner,) that had been disbursed in building the houses and trimming the land, (making a very true account, not leaving out a penny,) and earnestly urged to have that also, according to the covenant, or my lord was not to give over his right : which the gentleman perceiving to be so large that it ex- ceeded his ability to repay, did not (as some of you perchance would have done,) appeal to the king his master, or bring him into the chanceiy; but he was better read in Jesus the son of Sirac, who hath taught him and us 2c 198 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK III. not to strive with our mightier lest we fall into his hands, and again, not to make variance with a rich man lest he bows us down with his weight ; and had heard the tale of the canons for their Cornish-wood : and the bishop was liis mightier, and Walter Bronscombe had more wealth and cunning, and therefore there was no contesting or contending. But what became of all this at last — (it is a lesson for all men,) so gotten, so spent: which Sa- mazara, a neoteric poet hath well expressed in two verses, which in our tongue speak thus, — Whoso feeds fat on fortune's wealth And swallows it too fast. Not able to digest it well Will surfeit at the last. and put up all again : for this bishop was not more griping and greedy to scrape and gain, than some (especially one) of liis successors have been as wasting; reducing the episcopal patrimony to a far less portion than Leo- fi-icus found it at his first instalment here. But as wealth and the desire thereof increased, so virtue decreased; as now we have seen. Here I should forbear to speak further of Clist Bishop, but I may not ere you know that here was crushed the viperous head of that serpent, commo- tion, raised in Cornwall in the reign of Edward VI.: for after those nide insurrectors had received a great overthrow at Feniton Bridge, retiring liither, they fortified both bridge and town; which, though it were the ge- neral's own land, was fired and consumed: but the bridge, planted and strongly fortified with ordnance, could not be forced with the valorous at- tempt of Sir William Francis of Combe-flory, who there winning fame to himself and posterity, lost his life. At length, by the conduct of one Mr. Yard, a native near the place, the river was found fordable, where he pass- ing with many other, they came on the back of the defendants, who (Uttle expecting such a matter,) retreated thence to the lower end of the heath, where they entrenched, fortifying their hasty-made fort with their ordnance; to which, as their last refuge, they brought the crucifix in a cart, (for want of a better altar,) with many other like things, to abate and dull the edge of the assailants' swords; yet the whole rout was here utterly vanquished and suppressed. The whole discourse is elsewhere to be read at large ; to which I refer him that is desirous to be more sufficiently informed. And here I do observe by this action (as many other.) that rehgion is the Chap. I.] view of devonshirk. 199 most forcible motion to provoke the blindest, basest, and dullest hearts of men to the most dangerous, audacious, and re&olutest enterprises : as the Romans, in the time of Romulus, flying before the Sabines, so that the vic- tory plainly showed itself on their adversaries' side : Romulus only remem- bering them of leaving Jupiter and the rest of their gods in the capitol to the possession of their enemies, was sufficient to turn and alter their despe- rate fortune. Yet again to another Clist with the addition of St. George. Here hath inhabited the family of Suckbitch, even (as they affirm) from the conquest; though of no great estate, yet worthy of our remembrance, for that God hath so blessed the tribe that one name should continue so long and in- herit one place. But I suppose it hath been sometime written Sackeby, or Suckby; for it was a generous tribe, and their armories allude to their former names, which are to be seen in Brixton Church, and are quartered by Fortescue of Fallopit. So we leave Woodbury, sometime the land of Damerle, alias de Albemarle, or de Albamara; for by all these we find him written; but now of the vicars choral of St. Peter's of Exon, witli his castle standing in the heath, some- time a wood, as we may conjecture, and thereof to take its name of Wood- berry, or Bury; (the fort in the wood;) not far from the church, as I re- member; built with little cost, without either lime or hewn stone: only a hasty fortification made of mother- earth for the present to serve a turn for need, with plain ditches: the Saxons' usual structure, who commonly lay sub dio, with no other shelter or coverture than the starry canopy; for their custom was not to carry trunks with them, nor troubled they themselves with anything more than their arms. Here, near the bank of the river Exe, stands Nutwel, (in elder time) Castle: but translated to a fair dweUing house by the Lord Dinham, Lord a. High Treasurer of England under Henry VH. (Of tliis name Leland wi'it- eth, Dominus Dinham, (it was then Dinant,) fuit Fundator Sancti Nicholai; [Nectani;] apud Hartland.) His gi-eat estate of his own inheritance and match with the daughter and heir of the Lord Fitzwalters was parted amongst his four daughters and coheirs, thus maiTied, Margaret, the first, to Nicholas Baron Carew; (of whom are all the noble house of the Carews;) Jane, the se- cond, to Lord Zouch : (of whom is the now Lord Zouch ;) the third, Elizabeth ; first wife to Fulk Bourchier, Lord FitzwaiTcn; (of whom is the now Earl of 200 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK III. Bath;) and secondly to Sir John Sapcotts of Rutlandshire, (of whom is the Earl of Bedford :) Katharine, the youngest, was married to Sir Thomas Arundell of Lanherne in Cornwall. Of his natural son. Sir Thomas Dinham, knight, I will not speak, but leave to him that travels Kent to remember. This Nutwel- Court at the partition came to the Lord Zouch, by which name it was ahenated to George Prideaux, Sergeant- at- Law, much respected for his knowledge therein and general learning. His son's son now pos- sesseth it, with equal virtue to his predecessors. Sir Thomas married the coheir of Cole: his father. Cooper: his grandfather, Stukeley. CHAPTER n. Of Powderham Castle and the noble Family of Courtenay. Having passed Lympstone and Withecombe, (which Albemarle so held by no common tenure, but only to find the king two good arrows stuck in an oaten cake when he pleased to come and hunt in Dartmoor,) we will now look over the river Exe to the other side, to take view of that fair object which offers itself to our view : we cannot survey it well unless we go nearer unto it. Exe is here large and navigable, and scorns to be forded ; in this boat we may take a better view of it than before. It shows hke a strong defensible castle. Is there no doubt to approach near it.'' no: fear not: it is indeed a castle, but fortified chiefly by a noble heart that keeps bountiful hospitality like his honourable ancestors, and gives kind and courteous entertainment to all comers. This Powderham Castle, the seat of long continuance of the illustrious family of the Cottrtenays, Uneally descended from the famous earls of this county, allied by affinity to most honourable houses of this kingdom, and yet flourisheth in high estimation, worthy their descent from such parentage. He married Pole and Seymour : his father, Elizabeth, daughter of Henry Manners; second of that name. Earl of Rutland : his grandfather, Elizabeth, daughter of John Pawlet, Marquis of Winchester. This castle was built, saith Mr. Camden, by Isabella de Ripariis,* not * It never belonged to Isabella de Fortibus, who died in 1293, but to the Bohuns, Chap. II.] view of Devonshire. 201 by her lord and husband, William Earl of Albemarle, (de Forts, or de For- tibus,) which I may not gainsay; but were not his ipse dixit sufficient au- thority, I should rather think it began before her time, but furthered and finished by her: from whom it came to the Courtenays: of which descent, in France, (for from thence the first came hither with Queen Eleanor, wife to Henry II., daughter and sole heir to WiUiam Duke of Aquitain, Earl of Poictiers and Tholouse, the fifth of that name,) Reusnerus, Tillet, or Hem- ing can inform you, though they differ somewhat in their relations : but of their descent in England I show you what I find. With Queen Eleanor came out of France, anno 1151, into England, a no- ble and generous knight, ycleped (so they said in those days,) Sir Reginald de Courtenay, and with him his son Wilham, (or as others will, Robert,) the first of that family in Devon. To this Sir Reginald the king (in regard of the many worthy quaUties and virtues wherewith he was richly accom- phshed,) gave the two daughters and coheirs of Maud de Averanches (daughter and sole heir of Robert de Averanches, son and heir of another Robert de Averanches by Emma his wife; sister and heir of Richard, son and heir of Baldwin de Brioniis, (abas Baldwinus de Sapp,) to whom the Norman Conqueror gave the barony of Okehampton with Albreda his niece;) named Viscount of Devon. Hawis, or Avis, eldest of these two ladies, was daughter by her first hus- band, the Lord of Aincourt ; which was married to WiUiam, the son, by whom he was Baron of Okehampton ; (and the king gave him also the ma- nor of Sutton near Oxford.) His issue was, first, Robert; secondly, Regi- nald; thirdly, William. The second daughter, Maud, Sir Reginald Cour- tenay himself married, (of whom, forasmuch as she died issueless, I might forbear to speak were it not in regard of her father,) was but half sister to Havis, only by the mother's side, begotten by a second husband, Robert Fitzroy; a fourth natural son to King Henry I. (I mean not Robert, Con- sul or Earl of Gloucester, born of Nest, the daughter of Rice ap Tudor, Prince of South- Wales, that so vaUantly fought for his sister Maud the em- Earls of Hereford and Essex, and was held under them by a family of the name of Pow- derham. Towards the middle of the fomteenth century it passed, either by forfeiture or default of issue, to Margaret Bohuu, the wife of Hugh Courtenay, second Earl of Devon. On her death, 16th December, 1391, it was settled on her younger son. Sir Philip Courtenay, and the heirs male of his body. Sir Philip died 29th July, 1419.— G.O,,— P. J. 202 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [ BooK III. press ; for he married Mabel, daughter of Robert Fitzhamon, Lord of Car- boil in Normandy, Cardiff in Wales, and Tewkesbury in England ; and had fair and fruitful issue.) This son he had by Edith, sister of Ive, son to Forme, the son of Segewolfe, a baron in the north parts. Some doubt may be made of this second Robert Fitzroy, Baron of Okehampton, but there be many deeds yet to be showed to prove it, besides the red book in the Ex- chequer : and that the Earl of Gloucester and he were not both one and the selfsame man: for Mr. York never saw all this king's natural issue; for he had two sons more and as many daughters, of whom you may have further intelligence hereafter. Robert Courtenay, son and heir, (for leaving the two younger brothers, I will speak only of him,) married Mary, eldest daughter and at last sole heir of William de Vernon, Earl of Devon, (to whom her father gave caput ho- noris sui in Devon, cum castello de PUmton; after whose decease she was re-man-ied to Peter de Pruz, or Prous, of whom there is also issue remain- ing;) by whom Robert had issue Sir John. This man was bui'ied at Ford- Abbey, anno 1242, with this epitaph, if rightly transcribed, — " Hie jacet ingenui de Courtenay gleba Roberti Militis egregii virtutum laude referti. Quem genuit strenuus Gulielmus Courtoniensis. Qui procer eximius faerat tunc Devoniensis." Sir John Courtenay, knight, Baron of Okehampton, married Isabel, daughter of John de Vere, seventh Earl of Oxford, and had issue Hugh: he died anno 1273. Hugh, Lord Courtenay, married Eleanor Spencer, (alias le Despencer,) and had issue Hugh, and Phihp of Moreton: and Isabella married to St, John : Avellina wife to Gifford : and Margaret married to Nichols. [John de Moelis.] Hugh, Lord Courtenay was by letters missive to the sheriff of the county, dated at Newcastle-upon-Tyne, [22nd Feb. 9th Edward III., 1335,] declared Earl of Devonshire. And now having brought this family to the earldom of this county, I think it will be expected as coherent and agreeable to our proceedings to offer unto youi- view a catalogue of such as have been honoured with that title; and yet perchance of some it will be thought superfluous, in regard there ai-e two or three extant already by men of great sufficiency: yet, they differing Chap. III.] view of Devonshire. 203 in divers points, I will mediate between them, and do my endeavours to make a reconciliation. Some I find preceding the Norman conquest (which I thuik rather temporary commanders and lieutenants than hereditary ho- noxirs,) which they have not noted ; I will show you what I have read, for I have no other warrant. CHAPTER III. A Catalogue of the Earls and Dukes of Devon before the Conquest. I should begin with Duke Corinseus, but some may say he was of Corn- wall ; if he were so, then (if there were such a man,) he must also be of this county: for before King Athelstan's time (it is generally consented) they were but one province : but his existence being uncertain, we will leave him without farther speech. Vortigern is next named, of whom nothing in the MS. Ceorle had the title of Earl of Devon, who at Winleshore gave a great overthrow to the whole power of the Danes in the time of King Ethelwolfe, A. D. 839, so that in despair they withdrew themselves unto the Isle of Thanet, where they abode all the winter season; and if de§,tiny (saith one) had not opposed the English, the Danes by this defeat had been clearly expulsed the king- dom. Ordgarus, or Odogarus, was Duke of Devon; whose fair daughter El- phreda was second wife to the noble and vaUant King Edgar, thirteenth monarch of this kingdom. Ordolph, his son, succeeded him; of whose length and strength is much spoken : (wonderful he, as some think :) this man, admonished by a vision from heaven, built the Abbey of Tavistock, anno 961, of whom you shall know more when we come thither. Hugh, Earl of Devon, (as Dicetus saith,) by whose traiterous instigation Sweno, King of Denmark, came with a great army and besieged the city of Exeter, took and burned it, torturing the inhabitants with great cruelty, leaving it at his departure waste and unpeopled : a man very unworthy to be registered: but wc find them, and make none. He lived a small time in that command. 204 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE, [BoOK III. Goda (as saith Simon Dunelmensis,) was Earl of Devonshire. He fought a great and long battle with the Danes, and defeated their whole power, anno, 989; in which fight he also lost his own life, together with Stem- wold, a man highly commended both for his valour and martial skill; in great love and esteem in these parts in those days; who at this fight served the earl. Almarus was also near about this time, who, by the advice of the country- people, was contented (with the willow to wave with the wind, and tempo- rize in that furious storm) to yield to the sharpest sword, and pay tribute to the Danes. Ethelmar, (saith Matthew of Westminster,) a powerful man and Earl of Devon, met Sweno at the city of Bath, and submitted himself and all his people unto him and to pay contributions; which, through want of victuals, he was enforced (for a sum of money) shortly to release ; and so he returned forthwith into Denmark. He may be supposed to be one and the same with Almarus next before. Elfius, Prince of Devonshire : whose son, Brithricus, a very hopeful man, was slain by King Canutus. Albert, Earl of Devon, was a testis to a deed made by Martin, Duke of Cornwall. Of him I have no other authentical remembrance whereon to depend. These are all those that I find registered by writers of those times. But after the Norman conquest we have a more certain and assured testimony, in regard these tribes were made hereditary. CHAPTER IV. Of the Earls of Devon after the Conquest, and First of Redvers. Richard de Ripariis, alias Rivers, intitled Le Sire de Riviers, son of Baldwin, to whom King Henry I. gave Tiverton and the barony of Plimton, creating him also Earl of Devonshire; granting him the third penny of the revenue of the county, which was ten marks. He had issue Baldwin, Chap. IV.] view of Devonshire. 205 Baldwin Rivers was second Earl. He fortified the city of Exeter against King Stephen, for the which he was banished England with his wife and children, anno 1136. He married a lady called Adeliza, and by her had issue Richard, Henry that died young, and William surnamed de Vernon. He died 1 156, and was buried in the Abbey of Quarrer, in the Isle of Wight, which with Twynam or Christ Church he had built. Richard, son and heir, was third Earl, and married Hawis, one of the co- heirs of Reginald Earl of Cornwall, natural son to King Henry I. He left at his death two sons very young, Baldwin and Richard, who both died without issue; and then died in Cenimonia [ Le Mans,] in France, anno ] 162, as Montanensis avers. Baldwin, eldest brother, was fourth Earl. He married Alice, saith one; but I find Avicia, daughter and heir of Ralph de Doll, in Berry, and lived not long, and died sans issue; and his relict was re-married to Andrew de Chauvens. Richard, the second brother, succeeded, and was fifth Earl of this county; who married, as some say, Margaret, daughter and coheir of John Lord Bysat ; but according to the book of Plympton, Emma, daughter of Roger de Pont-Arches. He died without issue, and was interred at Montebourg in Normandy, anno 1166. He bore, or, a lion ramp., azure : the first that bore this coat. His predecessors bore gul. a griffin seizing a little beast, or. WiUiam, surnamed de Vernon, of Vemona in Normandy, for that he was there either bom or brought up in learning ; after the decease of his young- est nephew was sixth Earl of Devonshire. He married Mabel, daughter to Robert Earl of Mellant, by Maud, one of the coheirs of Reginald, Earl of Cornwall; by whom he had issue Baldwin, who married a daughter of Warin Fitzgerald, and had issue a son named Baldwin, successor to his grandfather, and died before the Earl, his father. This Earl William had two daughters: Mary, eldest, married to Sir Robert Courtenay; of whom before: Joan, the second, was first married to WiUiam Bruer the younger. Baron of Torbay ; and after his decease to Hubert de Burgo, chamberlain to King John; and by Henry III. created Earl of Kent. He died anno 1216. This is he that I conceive to be generally named the good Earl of Devon ; on whose monument was inscribed that epitaph so vulgarly spoken of as thus, "Hoe! hoe! who lies here ? I, the good Earl of Denshire ; 206 VIBW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK III. And Maud* my wife that was full dear : We liv'd together fifty -five year. That we have we gave ; That we spent we had; That we left we lost." I remember I have somewhere read in a printed poem this epitaph hardly censured and condemned (unjustly, as I suppose,) of a smack of sensual de- lights and beastliness, (so are the words,) and compared in a sort (though as it seems to me it expresseth a pious and rehgious mind,) to that of the luxurious, riotous, and beastly King Sardanapalus ; who caused certain verses to be written on his tomb in Greek, which by Cicero (as some say) are thus translated, — " Heec habui quae edi, quaeque exsaturata libido Hausit, at ilia manent multa et preeclara relicta :" and thus put to me in English, — " All that I eat did I enjoy, and all that I greedily gorg'd ; As for those many goodly matters left I for others." This seems to me a very unfit comparison, and too severe a censure; for christian charity would understand this old, bountiful, and rehgiously affect- ed earl and his poet's meaning thus, — That they spent no more than was their own rightfully, without extorting from others unlawfully or unjustly; and that he died not indebted. — ^That what he gave to the poor or to charitable and pious uses, as very fair land to the Abbey Quarrer, to pray for the soul of King Henry, his lord; the Earl Baldwin, his father; Adehcia, the Countess, his mother; Earl Richard, his brother; and for the health of Maud, his Countess, and Baldwin, their son; as is to be seen in his deed dated 4th Sep., 1206; which in those days was not only approved as good and lawful, but laudable and meritorious, — was lent to the Lord, and so they had it repaid them again : and what they left behind them chested and heaped up in treasury might rust, and was to * Another reading (p. 142, Cleaveland,) Mabel is incorrect. There can be little question of the effigies being intended for Edward Courtenay, the first of that name, Earl of Devonshire, who died 5th December, 1419 ; yet he attained the age of 62 only, and was buried, with many of his ancestors, in Ford Abbey. Were they not married 35 instead of 55 years ?— G. O.,— P. J. Chap. IV,] view of Devonshire. 207 them as lost, not being employed to their right use. I hold therefore this comparison very unfit: the one a rehgious and bountiful knight, and chris- tian soldier; and the other a dissolute and ignoble-hearted epicure; rather to be termed only a mere animal than a reasonable man: for he was so far unlike a man, that he kept himself always chambered, carding and spinning with his lewd strumpets ; walterhig, wantonizing, and beast-like tumbling ; unfit to be rehearsed by a christian mouth. For being deceased, there was made a statue for him in this manner : a man dancing by himself alone, after a barbarous and brutish fashion, knocking his fingers (as it were,) over his head like an antic, with this inscription, [in English thus,] — What I did eat and drink I have, The sports also were gain ; That lady, Venus, did vouchsafe : All else to me was vain. But leaving the examination of this rigorous comparison to your favourable consideration, we will proceed with the seventh earl. Baldwin, son of Baldwin, son of William de Vernon, was he. He mar- ried Amicia, daughter of Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Hertford and Gloucester, and foundress of the Abbey of Buckland ; and had issue Baldwin his suc- cessor, 1245. Isabella married to William de Fortibus, Earl of Albemarle: Margaret made nun at Lacock. Baldwin was the eighth Earl of Denshire, and the fifth of that christian name. He married Avice, the daughter of , a Savoyan born, near kinswoman to Queen Eleanor, and had issue a son named John, who died young, without issue ; leaving Isabella, Countess of Albemarle, his sis- ter, his heir; anno 1262. Isabella, sister and heir of Earl Baldwin, was, as is formerly said, mar- ried to William de Fortibus, who enjoyed the profits of the earldom all his life, yet was never styled Earl of Devon. Her issue was John, Thomas, William ; all three died before her, sans issue ; and Ann, who died unmar- ried ; and Aveline, first married to Ingram de Percie, and secondly unto Edmund Earl of Lancaster, second son to King Henrj' III.; but had issue by neither of them : yet she gave much of her inlieritance to the last, (being so persuaded by her lady-mother,) from her nearest kindred, the Courte- nays. We will not therefore number William de Fortibus as one of the earls, but pass to another line. 208 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [ BoOK III. CHAPTER V. Of the right noble family of the Courtenays, Earls of Devon. Hugh Lorp Courtenay, Baron of Okehampton, was, by his grandmother, Mary, eldest daughter, and now, by the death of Isabella de Fortibus, heir to the Rivers ; but was not presently admitted by the treasurer and barons of the Exchequer, to receive the third penny, being not admitted earl ; and Walter Stapeldon, Bishop of Exeter and treasurer to King Edward II. ut- terly denied it; whereupon he was enforced to petition King Edward III., who, in the ninth year of his reign, by letters missive, dated at Newcastle upon the 22nd of February, gave order for the payment thereof ; and more than so, sent a mandamus to the sheriff of the county, charging him quod tam in comitatu tuo quam in aliis locis, in Baliva tua facias publicari, quod. omnes de csetero prsefatum Hugonem comitem Devon nominent ; and -the morrow after sent to the treasurer and barons of the Exchequer that from thencefoi-ward they should cause the sum of £18. 6s. 8d. (for so much it was raised since Henry I.'s time; for then it was but ten marks;) to be yearly paid according as his ancestors had received it, nomine comitis. He married Agnes, sister of Sir John St. John, knight, by whom he had issue Hugh ; Sir Thomas Courtenay, knight, who man-ied Muriel, one of the two coheirs of John Lord Mule ; John, Abbot of Tavistock ; Robert ; Eleanor, wife to John Gray; Elisabeth, married to Bartholomew de Insula, or the Isle of Wight; Egline, wife to Robert Lord Scales. This earl died anno 1340, and was buried at Cowick. Hugh Lord Courtenay, son and heir, was tenth earl, and married Marga- ret, second daughter of Humphry de Bohun, Earl of Hereford and Essex, by Elisabeth, daughter of King Edward I., the relict of John Earl of Hol- land ; and had issue Hugh, who married Elisabeth, daughter of the Lord Guy de Biyan, and had issue by her another Hugh; who married Maud, daughter of Sir Thomas Holland, knight, (she was after re-married to Walleran Earl of St. Pol in France ;) by Joan, his wife ; (called the fair maid of Kent ;) daugh- ter of Edward Earl of Kent ; (she was afterward wife to Edward The Black Prince ;) and died without issue, before the earl his grandfather, as his fa- Chap. V,1 view of Devonshire. 209 ther also did. Edward, second son, whom some would have to be earl, but he died before his father also, yet married Emline, daughter and heir of Sir John Dauney, knight, and had issue, first, Edward Earl of Devon, after his grandfather : Sir Hugh Courtenay of Boconock and Haccomb, knight ; whose issue, after the extinction of the elder line, will in time enjoy the earldom : Sir Thomas Courtenay, knight : fourth, John, who encountered Monsieur Boucequant (that famous man at arms,) at his tournament in France, anno 1390 ; King Richard II. being King of England, and Charles VI. of France : fifth. Sir Philip Courtenay of Powderham, knight, whose issue flourisheth there to this day : sixth, William Archbishop of Canterbu- ry: seventh, Humphry Courtenay: eighth. Sir Peter Courtenay, of whom his valour and virtue meriting perpetual remembrance,) I shall have occa- sion to speak somewhat largely after I have numbered his sisters and their matches. First, Elisabeth, first married to Sir Andrew Lutterel, knight, and secondly to Sir John Vere, knight, second son to Aubrey de Vere, tenth Earl of Oxford, by whom she had no issue : second, Margaret, first mar- ried to Theobald Grenvile, (yet others say that Margaret his wife was daugh- ter to Sir Hugh Courtenay of Boconock, and so niece to the Lady Marga- ret ;) and secondly to the Lord Cobham : third, Katharine, married first to William Lord Harrington, and after to Sir Thomas Engain : fourth, Maud : fifth, Joan, to Sir John Cheverton, knight : sixth, Eleanor : seventh, Gui- nora : eighth, Isabella : ninth, Philhppa. This earl died at Tiverton, anno 1377, and was bm-ied, with his lady, in the body of St. Peter's Church at Exeter, with both their representations on a fair monument of alabaster, and over it a sumptuous curious little chapel, lately taken down. Now I may not forget my promise in telling you somewhat of the vahant acts of Sir Peter Courtenay, the youngest son of this earl. In the reign of Charles VI. of that name. King of France, anno 1389, there were divers knights in his court, much noted and famous for their valour and skill in exercise of arms ; whereof three were, for their prowess, vulgarly noted and spoken of in other countries, namely. Monsieur de Boucequant ; second. Monsieur Reynant de Roy ; third, Monsieur de St. Pie ; all gentlemen of the king's chamber. These three proclaimed a tournament to be held at Paris the 20th of November, which was worthily performed ; whereat were present 100 English gentlemen at arms. At this time (it should seem) our knight. Sir Peter, was, by reason of his youth, unfit to manage arms, (for 210 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK III. his brother, John, who was the fourth before him, was then an actor with high commendation.) But in short time after Sir Peter, of a high spirit, full of valour and mihtary virtue, obtained leave of King Richard II. to pass to Paris ; where, after he had rested a few days, he challenged Monsieur Tremoulye, a noble gentleman, who, accepting it, obtained license to an- swer it, and appointed both day and place. The King, associated with the Duke of Burgundy and many other great estates, were present to behold it. The first course was exceeding well performed of both parties, and with high commendation : but the king inhibited farther proceeding ; seemed ofifend- ed with our knight, which made suit to do his uttermost ; Su* Peter there- with grieved, thought good to leave the country, wherewith the king was very well pleased, and sent him an honourable gift, (the Duke of Burgundy did the like,) and commanded Monsieur Clary (a great lord,) to accompany him to Calais, then Enghsh. By the way they visited Walleran, third of that name. Earl of St. Pol's, (who had married King Richard's half-sister, Maud, daughter to Sir Thomas Holland, and the widow of Hugh Courtenay, the younger son of Sir Hugh, Sir Peter's eldest brother;) where he had fair entertainment; and sitting at supper had communication of divers matters; and among sundry other questions, the earl asked him how he hked the realm of France, and his opinion of the worth of the nobihty thereof. To which demand our knight, with a somewhat sour countenance, rephed, that he found in France nothing to be compared with the magnificence of England, yet for friendly entertainment he had no cause to complain ; but for the chief cause that moved him to come thither he was unsatisfied, for, saith he, I protest before all this honourable company that if Monsieur de Clary had come into England and challenged any of our nation, he should have been fuHy answered ; but other measure hath been tendered me in France; for when Monsieur Tremoulye and I had engaged our honour, after one lance broken the king commanded me to stay : I have therefore said, and wherever I come I will say, that in France I was denied reason and leave to do my uttermost. Monsieur Clary was much moved at these speeches, (yet having charge to conduct Sir Peter safely to Calais,) for the present forbore; but the earl rephed, " let me tell you. Sir Peter, it appears to me that you depart from France much honoured, in regard the king vouchsafed to entreat you to stay the fight, whom to obey is wisdom and praiseworthy. Chap, v.] view of Devonshire. 211 NovF having taken his leave of the earl, he passeth forth with Monsieur de Clarv, and as soon as they were entered the confines of the English ter- ritories, Sir Peter very heartily thanked him for his noble company : but Monsieur de Clary having a deep impression in his mind of the eager speech- es uttered at the Earl of St. Pol's table, replied in this sort; " Sir, now I have done my duty in performing the king my master's commands in con- ducting you safe to your friends, I must, before we part, remember you of your inconsiderate speeches uttered in contempt of the nobiHty of France ; and that you may have no reason or cause to boast (when you arrive in England,) that you were not answered in France, so here I am, though inferior to many other, this day or to-morrow ready to answer and encounter you ; not for malice to your person, or gloriously to vaunt of my valour, but to pre- serve the true fame and lustre due to our French nation, which never grant- ed gentlemen in arms to answer any English challenge.'" " You speak well and nobly (quoth our knight,) and with a very good wiU I accept your challenge ; and to-morrow I will not fail to attend you armed with three lances, according to the French custom." Upon this agreement and resolution Sir Peter goes for Calais, there to be furnished with arms for the combat; and the Lord John Warren, then governor, was made privy to his intent. The next day he returns to meet Monsieur de Clary between Calais and Boulougne, and with him were the Lord Governor and other gentlemen to behold it. At the first course either partv brake well; but at the second, by default of the English knight's armour, he was hurt in the shoulder, which moved the Lord Warren to tell Monsieur de Clary "you have dealt discourteously to hurt Courtenay, his armour being broken." To which he answered, "I am sorry; but to govern fortune is not in my power; it might have happened to me that befell to him;" and so they departed each his way. But de Clary's welcome to the king his master was very harsh, heavy, and sharp, worthy the relation, in regard it learneth us how to carry our- selves in princes' affairs, not to exceed our commission ; but it would be too long and beside my purpose to treat of. But to conclude with our knight: he died in the flower of his age, and was interred near his father under a fair blue marble stone, with his picture in brass, armed cap-a-pee; which is still to be seen, with this epitaph in metre, — " Devonie ualuscomitis, Petnisque vocatus: Kegi cognatus; camerarius intitulatus; 212 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE, [BoOK III. Calesie gratus: capitaneiis ense probatus: Vita privatus fuit hinc super astra relatus Et quia sublatus de mundo transit amatus Celo firmatus: maneat sine fine beatus." But to return again to our Earls, and to do our best to reconcile some differences among our learned antiquarians. Here Mr. York, in his cata- logue and conJFutation of other men's errors, runs into two gross mistakings; first, in placing Edward, the last earl's son for the eleventh earl, which can- not possibly be, he dying before his father; as plainly appeareth by divers inquisitions found, whereof you may take this for one. — "Juratores dicunt per sacramentum suum quod Hugo Courtney comes Devon, (meaning this Edward's father,) obiit 2do die Mail, anno 51. Edward 3tii, et quod Edwardus, filius Edwardi filii dicti Hugonis, (here you see it most mani- fest and apparent plain,) est consanguineus et hoeres ejusdera Hugonis, est setatis 20 annorum et amplius," Edward Courtenay, surnamed the blind, (for I will enlarge this no far- ther,) son to Lord Edward, second son to the last Earl Hugh, is by right account the eleventh Earl of this county; and married, as Mr. York boldly saith, Eleanor, second daughter of Roger Mortimer, Earl of March and Ul- ster, and had issue Hugh, and so forth. But this was a strange oversight in a man so long experienced in his profession, for it is manifestly contrary to all other men's opinions, and opposite adverse to the pariiament rolls of the 1st of King Edward IV., which speaketh thus. — " Lyonel Duke of Clarence, who was third son to King Edward III., had, by Ehzabeth his wife, daughter and only heir to William de Burgo, Earl of Ulster, issue Philip, his only daughter and heir, and died; and the same Phihp was married to Edmund Mortimer, Earl of March, and by him, the said Edmund, had issue Roger Mortimer, Earl of March, her son and heir; and so Edmund and Philip died. Roger Mortimer, son and heir of them, married Eleanor, daughter of Thomas Holland, Earl of Kent, and had issue Edmund Earl of March; who, by his wife, Anna, daughter of Edmund Earl of Stafford, had no issue at all; second Roger, the second son, died young also, without issue and unmarried. Anna, eldest daughter, was married to Richard of Conesburgh, Earl of Cambridge, and had issue Richard Duke of York, father to King Edward IV. Eleanor, second daughter, died without issue. So this marriage, and especiallv to have issue, can in no wise be ve- rified." Chap. V.] view of Devonshire. 213 There needs no farther proof : yet if any doubt be made, there is an old historical roU, which expresseth it also very plainly that he liad no issue, which saith thus : — " Right thus did cease of the Marchis blood, The heir male : whither passed the night Of the Marchis Londis, and to whom it stood I would fain learn if that I might. Sir Roger Mydil Earl, that noble knight, Twin daughters left of his blood royal. That one's issue died, that other hath all. What height that lady whose had grace This lordship to attain : Dame Ann I wis : To the Earl of Cambridge, and she wife was. Which both be dead : God grant them bliss." &c. But now to leave this noble earl without wife and yet to have lawful is- sues (as others have done,) would seem both against law and reason ; and we may very well deserve the same attribute with him, and be termed bhnd. I will therefore aim at some likelihood to supply this defect, and reconcile the difference; yet but as one that gropeth in the dark. In the church at Tiverton (the place of the earl's chief residence,) I find divers of their arms with their matches impaled : amongst other, there is the coat of the Lord Camois impaled with Courtenay's ; and therefore (not reading or any way informed that any other of that name and house matched with Camois,) I have good reason to suppose and think that he married with a daughter of Thomas Lord Camois who hved in that age : and in that church next in place I found the arms of March, and Ulster impaled also with Courtenay's; which persuades me to believe there was a match also that way; which I take to be thus, — This Earl Edward, surnamed the blind, had issue, first, Edward, his el- dest son. Lord Courtenay, who received the order of knighthood in the 2nd King Henry V., and died sans issue before his father; and it is probable that this was that Edward Lord Courtenay that married (if any did,) with Eleanor Mortimer, and concurs with the rithmical roll before transcribed. Now to prove that his eldest son was Edward, there have been lately divers deeds extant ; one in the 3rd of Henry V., concerning the advowson of the rectory of Kentisbear, wherein he is named Dominus Edwardus Courtenay, 2e 214 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK III. junior ; with many other to be produced. His second son was Hugh, who succeeded him in his honour and lands. Hugh Lord Courtenay, second son and heir, was the twelfth Earl of De- von. He married Ann,* daughter of Richard Lord Talbot, and had issue Thomas, his successor. Thomas Courtenay was the thirteenth Earl of Devon, and married Mar- garet, daughter of John Beaufort, Duke of Somerset, (Joan, her eldest sister, was wife to James, first King of Scots.) and had issue, first, Thomas, who succeeded him ; second, Henry, beheaded 6th Edward IV., in the city of Sahsbury; third, John, slain at Tewkesbury 1 0th King Edward IV.; Joan, wife to Sir Roger Clifford, knight ; Elizabeth, married to Sir Hugh Con- way, knight. This earl was beheaded the 3rd of April, in the 1st year of King Edward IV., 1461. Thomas, his eldest son, was fourteenth Earl of this shire, and held it a small time after his father's death, who was put to death the 3rd of April, 1st Edward IV., and this Earl the 4th of November following, in the same year ; upon whose execution, the elder line of the Courtenays either extinct or out of favour, this honour was conferred upon another line. Humphry Stafford, of Southwike, son of William Stafford, of Hook, esq., was, by King Eward IV., created fifteenth Earl of Devonshire, anno 1469. He married Isabel, daughter and heir of Sir John Barry, knight, but died issueless : for he was an earl but of three month's continuance ; for revolting at the battle of Banbury from his advancer, he was taken by some of King Edward's friends, and for his cowardice was, without process, executed at Bridgewater. After his death his widow was married to Sir Thomas Bour- chier, knight. He bears, or, a chev. gul. within a bordure engrailed sab. Now you are to remember that I have showed you that Edward Lord Courtenay (second son and heir of Hugh Courtenay, tenth Earl of Devon- shire,) who died before his father the earl, left two sons ; Edward, surna- med the Blind, the eleventh Earl, whose line (by the sword) is now expired ; and secondly, Hugh. * Her circular brass seal, richly gilt, was found in Catharine-Street, Exeter, 2nd Sep- tember, 1839, and is now in the possession of William, Earl of Devon. The legend is SiGiLLVM Anne Covktenay Comitisse Devonie. Probably after the death of her lord, she removed from Tiverton Castle, to the Rectory House of Tydcombe in Tiverton parish, where Bishop Lacy licenced a chapel for her use 21st January, 1425. — G. 0,, — P. J. Chap. V.] view of Devonshire. 215 This Hugh married Matilda,* daughter to Sir John Beamont, of Sherwell, knight, and had issue Sir Hugh Courtenay, knight ; secondly he married Philippa, daughter and one of the three coheirs of Sir Warren Lerchdeacon, of Haccomb, knight, and by her had one only daughter (and heir to her mother,) named Joan ; first married to Sir Nicholas Carew, and secondly to Sir Robert Vere, knight, (second son to Richard de Vere, eleventh Earl of Oxford,) and by her he was father of John, that was father of John fif- teenth Earl of Oxford. Sir Hugh Courtenay, of Boconock, knight, married Margaret, daughter of Thomas Carmino, esq., and had issue Edward Earl of Devon, and four daughters, who in time came to be heirs of the family and to divide that large patrimony. Edward Courtenay, son and heir of Sir Hugh, after the death of Earl Stafford was, by the favour of King Henry VII., (26th October, in the 1st year of his reign,) restored to blood and to be the sixteenth Earl of this coun- ty. He married EUzabeth, daughter of Sir Philip Courtenay, of MoUand, knight, and had issue WiUiam. He died in May, 1509. William Lord Courtenay, only son and heir, having been attainted in his father's lifetime was not created the seventeenth Earl of this shire until the 10th May, 1511. He had married Katharine, the seventh daughter of King Edwai-d IV., and had issue Henry : he died at Greenwich the 9th of June, 1511, and was buried in the Black-Friars, London. Henry Courtenay was the eighteenth Earl of Devon, and Baron of Oke- hampton, and by King Henry VIII., 18th June, 1525, created Marquess of Exeter. His first wife was Elizabeth, daughter and heir of Sir John Grey, Viscount Lisle, by whom he had no issue : after he married Gertrude, daughter of William Blunt, Baron Mountjoy, by whom he had issue only one son named Edward. This Lord Marquess of Exeter, with the Lord Montague and Sir Nicholas Carew of Bedington, were attainted of treason, and executed at Tower-Hill, January, 1539. He bears, quarterly France and * Here is much confusion and inaccuracy. This Matilda was the daughter of Sir Wil- liam Beaumont of Heaunton, and was the third and last wife of Sir Hugh Courtenay of Haccombe. The licence for their marriage dated IGth October, 1417, "in capella dicti Willelmi Beaumond de Heaunton" maybe seen in Bishop Stafford's Register, vol. I. fol. 235. She survived her husband many years, and dying 3rd July, 1467, was buried in the Lady's Chapel of the conventual church of St, Nicholas' Priory, Exeter. — G. O,, — P. J. 216 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK III. England within a bordure counter quartered of the one and other. In the 2nd and 3rd quarter his paternal coat viz, or, three torteauxes ; whereas his predecessors gave the same with a file of three lables azure in the fourth quarter, or, a Hon ramp, azure, armed and lang. gu., by the name of Rivers. Edward, son and heir to this Henry Marquess of Exeter, was long detain- ed in the Tower of London, prisoner; but in the 1st year of the reign of Queen Mary was set at liberty and restored in blood the 3rd September, 1553, which he not long enjoyed; for travelling into Italy he died in the city of Padua (not, as some say, without suspicion of poison,) the 4th October, 1556, and was there buried in St. Anthony's Church, on whom was set this epitaph : — "Anglia quern genuit fueratque habitura patronum Courteneum celsa heec continet Area Ducem. Credita causa necis regni affectata cupido Reginae optatum tunc quoque connubium. Cui regni proceres non consensere, Philippo Reginamregi jungere posse rati, Europam unde fuit juveni peragrase necesse Ex quo mors misero contigit ante diem. Anglia si plorat defuncto principe tanto Nil mirum ; Domino defecit ilia pic, Sedjam Courteneus coelo fruiturque beatis Cum doleant Angli cum sine fine gemant, Courtenei probitas igitur, preestantia, nomen, Dum stabit hoc templum vivida semper erunt Angliaque hinc etiam stabit, stabuntque Brittanni Conjugii optati, fama perennis erit. Improba naturae leges Libitina rescindens Ex aequo juvenes praecipitatque senes." In this man ended the male Une of the elder house of this noble family of the Courtenays, Earls of Devonshire for ten descents ; and the patrimony was distributed among the heirs of the four sisters of Edward, the eleventh Earl of Devon, which were married into these families : — Elizabeth to John Trethurffe; Maud to John Arundel of Talvern; Isabel to William Mohun; Florence to John Trelawny. Chap. VI.] view of dkvonshirb. 217 CHAPTER VI. Of those other Noble Families which have since been Earls of Devon. — /^,-<./%.'\ /> And now to proceed in our catalogue we must find another family, which we shall presently do, both ancient, noble, and famous ;^Charles Blunt, Baron Mountjoy, (second son of James, Lord Mountjoy, and brother and heir to WiUiam, Baron Mountjoy,) Lord Deputy of Ireland and Lieutenant- general, knight of the noble Order of the Garter ; a worthy commander and excellently learned; (tam marti quam mercurio;) religious, affable, and courteous: he, the same, that expulsed the Spaniards out of Ireland, and won that famous victory of them and the rebel Tyrone and his associates at Kinsale on the 24th day of December, 1602, compeUing the rebels' humble submission ; was, by King James, of ever pious memory, created Earl of Denshu-e at Hampton Court, the 24th July, 1603 ; which he en- joyed a small time, for he died the 3rd of April, 1606, and was buried with great pomp in the Abbey of Westminster, leaving all his estate to his natural son, Mountjoy Blunt, created Baron of Mountjoy in the north of Ireland, by King James, and Earl of Newport in the Isle of Wight, the 3rd of August, 1 628, by King Charles. His arms, barry nebuly of 6, or and sab. After his decease King James, in August, 1618, by his letters patent bearing date at Gorhambury, created WUliam Cavendish (whom he before, the 4th May, 1615, had honoured with the title of Baron Cavendish, of Hardwike in the County of Derby,) Earl of Devonshire; and in number the one-and-twentieth. His first wife was Anna, daughter and heir of Henry Kedley, of Kighley in the county of York, esq., by whom he had issue, first, Gilbert, that died young; second, William, now Lord Cavendish, and hath married Christian, the daughter of Edward, Lord Bruce of Kenloss, and Master of the Rolls, and hath issue, WiUiam; second, Charles; third, Ed- ward; Anna; James died young; Frances, wife to Sir WiUiam Maynard, knight and baronet, created Lord Maynai-d, of Wicklow in the county of Wicklow in Ireland, by letters patent dated at Westminster the 13th May, 1620; Mary, EHzabeth, both died young. His second wife, now countess, 1627, is Elizabeth, daughter of Sir Edward Boughton, of Causton in the county of Warwick, knight, the relict of Sir Edward Wortley, of Wortley 218 VIKW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK III. in the county of York, knight, by whom he had issue Sir John Cavendish, made Knight of the Bath at the creation of Prince Charles, 1616; who died in February, 1617. His arms, sab. three stags' heads cabossed arg. attired or, WiUiam Cavendish, grandson to the last mentioned Earl of Devon, was created Marquess and Duke of Devonshire the 12th May, 1694, by King William III. CHAPTER VII. Of Kenn, and some other places on the west side of the river Exe. This task is finished, now may we pass Powderham and draw towards Kenton, taking name of the riveret which here yields tribute to the sea. This manor did sometimes belong to Thomas Holland, Duke of Surry, (half brother to King Richard II.) Here dwelleth Lutton at CafFord. This riveret. Ken, is first seen at or near Holcomb (known fi'om another of the same name by the adjunct of) Burnell; an ancient and generous in- habitant there, and of good account and large possessions both here and in Shropshire. Afterward Humphrey, and Sir Gilbert de Kayle, knight, en- joyed it. But in these later days divers descents of Dennis have possessed it ; and Sir Thomas Dennis, knight, built a veiy fair house upon it. This family took their original and name from the Danes, (the only one that is supposed to do it in this county,) and were anciently written Le Dan Denis; by which name the Cornish name the Danes. Then passeth it Dunchideock, the land of Martin, and after of Gorges, and so comes to Shillingford. In the time of Richard I. a family of the same name pos- sessed it, (and in the time of Edward I. Thomas Fitz-Ralph held it;) of which the two coheirs were married to Alleyn and Brook ; so it was alien- ated to Sir William Huddesfeld ; upon whose large monument, in a little church, is this inscription, which speaks him at large : — " Here lieth Sir William Huddiffeild, knight, Attorney-general to King Ed- ward IV., and of the Council to King Henry VH., and Justice of Oyer and De- Chap. VII.] view of Devonshire. 219 terminer ; which died Ihc 20th day of March, in the year of our Lord 1499. On whose soul Jesus have mercy. Amen Honor Deo et Gloria." Above, over the tombstone, — "Condilor et Redemptor corporis etanime )Sit michi medicus et custos utriusque." In a window, above his picture in glass, — " Hi tres sunt mihi spes, Jhesus, Maria, Johannes." On another part of the monument is written, — " Dame Kateryn, the wife of Sir William Huddesfeld, and daughter to Sir Philip Courfnay, knyht." Over the head of her picture, — "Queepeperit florem, det nobis floris odorem." Under both their pictures, — " Orate pro bono statu Willihemi Huddesfeld militis et Katharinae uxoris ejus." On the church are these arms to be seen, — "Argent afess sable between three boars passant, sab. Impaling or, three lions in pale passant sable. Argent a fess between three boars passant sab. impaled with gul. three bolts arg." It is now the inheritance of Southcote ; one of which name lies there buried. Upon the stone that covereth him is this inscription, — "John Southcote, Esquyer, sometymes lord and patron of this church, who departed this present life the 6th of September, Anno Domini 1556." 1 saw also there — " Here licth the body of Nicholas Tottle, son of Henry Tottle, esq,, who died the 22nd December, anno 1622."' Tlicre stands near it the farm house of Bowhay, the ancient seat of the ge- nerous family of Bowhay, (not long since extinct,) of good state and repu- tation in their time : now the seat of Peter ; of whose son, (which as it seems died young,) on a stone, is left this remembrance, — "John Peter, the son of John Peter, of Bowhay, esq. Lies under this stone, A blessed little one; 220 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [ BoOK III. Who, clean by Grace, he drew untainted breath, And ere made bad by life, niade good by death." Then this riviJet nameth a village Kenford, through which it fleeteth. And here is a fit opportunity oflFered to tell you of a wonder, or old fable, or what you please to think it : I could well forbear to relate it, but that I intend not to stem the tide, but to swim with the stream and current of the world : for I think (let me well remember,) I have seen few men in my time which were free from speaking some foolish (at least idle, vain or com- mentitious fancy,) at one time or other ; but his fortune is worst that speaks them in earnest and with affectation; curiously and ambitiously seeking to procure credit and belief where little or none is due. It shall not be said of me ; if it be, I reckon not — Ne iste magno conatu magnas Nugas dixerit This fellow sure, with much ado, Will tell strange tales and trifles too. It shall not bite me. You shall have it freely at the same price it cost me, and in the same measure as near as I can. — Somewhat above this village as you descend from the great hill Haldown toward Exeter, at the foot thereof stood a long time (I cannot say now stand,) two stones pitched in the ends, which to strange travellers seemed to be there placed for passengers with the more ease (especially women which there perchance were not used to be lifted up, and in that age went not in coaches,) to take their horses ; for commonly all men walk down that steep descent. But from the neighbours and those that anciently dwelled near it you have another and strange relation, thus : — They first name them the giant's stones ; and they say, by an ancient tra- dition, that a giant (so men of an extraordinary stature are called, and some such are seen in every age,) was there buried; who, not only for his large bulk and length, but for his strength and valour, surpassed (by far) all men of his time. And that I spin not out the thread of this tale to a farther length, how he fell here suddenly down dead, and the cause of his death, worth ( I can tell you) good fire in a winter's cold night, that he was buried in this place; and these two stones were placed, one at his head and the other at his feet, which expressed him to be no pigmy but of the longest Chap, VII.] view of Devonshire, 221 size; yet not peradventure so large as he whom the noble poet (by an hy- perbolical hcence) describeth thus : — " His legs, two pillars; aud to see him go He seem'd some steeple reeling to and fro," But the wonder was, that albeit the placing of these two stones showed where his head and feet lay, yet the true length of his stature could never be directly known; for measure the distance between them as often as you would, yet should you not take it twice together alike equal, but at every several time there would be some difference, longer or shorter. What fal- lacy there was I cannot conceive, but this report was general, yea, and by such whose credit was not to be questioned, that either themselves had found it so by trial, or heard by those affirmed, of" the truth of whose rela- tion no doubt or mistrust was to be made; yet to call them now to witness is needless ; yet would I not persuade you to believe more of this than of other self-hke nature : as Mayn- Amberstone in Cornwall, yet to be proved, a huge rock sensibly moving to and fro (as tis verified,) by power of a fin- ger, but not to be removed by the strength of many shoulders; as these verses say: — " Be thou thy mother-nature's work, " This hugy rock one finger's force Or proof of giants' might ; Apparently will move ; Worthless and ragged though thou show, But to remove it many strengths Yet art thou worth the sight, ' Shall all too feeble prove." • Some years since the stones, secretly in the night, were undermined and taken up, but by whom and for what cause is not vulgarly known, neither is it discovered what was found under them. Some suppose they made search for treasure, conceived there to be hidden ; others again imagine to seek out the certainty whether there were any bones there to be seen as the remainder of that large corpse, if so, thereby to confirm the behef (of divers incredulous persons) that there were such tall men in fore-past ages; as Virgil in the first of his Georgicks saith, touching the ploughing of Emo- nian or Emathian fields, — " Scilicet tempus veniet cum finibus illis Agricola incurvo terram molitus aratro Tirandiaque eflfossis mirabitur ossa sepulchris." 2f 222 VIEW OP DEVONSHIRE, [BoOK III. The time will come one day when in that bound The painful husband, ploughing of the ground, Shall wonder at the huge bones therein found. So we come to Kenn Church, which parish is beholding also to our river for imparting his name unto it, fleeting very near it. The church is beau- tified with some ancient, and lately, with many fair armories. — " Or a torteaux. Azure semie fleur-de-lis, a lion sal. gard. arg. Sab, a chev- ron between three suns arg. Arg. a chevron between three escalops sab." Here is an epitaph on Amias Southcote : — '' Fear not to die : No ill in death Learn this of me, If good thou be.'" I will leave the poet to express his own meaning : we will visit Trehill (or town place,) to see what hospitahty the owner keeps. It was sometime the seat of the generous family of Drew, now of Waltham, recorder of the city of Exeter. I have had good cheer there and been merry oftentimes with Sir Nicholas Smith, Sir John Hobbard, knights ; Mr. Nicholas Duck, (sometime recorder of the same city,) and divers other the like company; and he is the same man still. I remember I have read of one of his name that was Bishop of Salisbury and Master of the RoUs in the time of Richard XL, and Lord High Treasurer of England in his reign ; a man that deserved marvellous well of his sovereign or he had never had such favour for his interment as Walsingham writeth : — . " Hoc anno (saith he, which was 1395,) obiit Johannes de Waltham episco- puB Sarum, et Eegni Thesaurarius. Qui tantum Regi complacuerit ut (etiam multis murmurantibus) apud monasterium inter reges meruit sepulturam." This seat is close xmder Haldon, a large champaign-lull, of which a sweet young cygnet of the muses being there, wrote these verses extempore, wherein regard of her youth I thought not unworthy your remembrance : — " My muse, be thou propitious to my will. And thou, Minerva, grant me wisdom's quill. I will not speak of high Olympus' fame. But of an alp-like hill, Haldon by name : Olympus, Ossa, Pelion, all three Are but as mole-hills to what I did see. But shall I make an end so soon? (0 spite !) Wilt not permit me speak in Haldon's right? Chap. VIII.] view of Devonshire. 223 Should the best poet seek Haldon to raise They coulJ not speak enough in Ilaldon's praise." Next place of note is Oxton, which Alexander de Oxton, alias Okeston, held under Henry III.; in later times. Hurst; which family extinct after a while, it is now Martin's. I have read of Hugenius de Hurst in the time of Edward I., and of the worthy family of the Martins. Comb-Martin and Martin- Hoo will inform you of their antiquity ; from Martin de Tours ; to whom the Norman Conqueror gave Combe, which from him was called Martin's-Comb; and of his honour the barony of Keymis, Partington, &c., can show you. In our age Sir Nicholas married Symms : his father, Prest- wood : his grandsire, Yeo. CHAPTER VIII. Of places on the east side of the River Exe. But let us haste to the farther side of the river, for it is unsociable and unsuitable to our purpose in hand to talk of things so far separated and out of sight. Near Exmouth and the southern part of this county to talk of Comb-Martin, the north-west-most part well near. But "Quo me cunque rapit tempestas deferor hospes." As wind and tide my boat doth carry, So I my mind and course do vary. Somewhat lower upon the mouth of the river stands Exmouth, that is, the mouth of Exe ; anciently Exanmouth ; but then only known by the name, as being but a poor fisher-town, yet it should seem it had a castle for its defence above 600 years since; for Mr. HoUinshed saith about the year 1001 the Danes with their navy returned out of Nonnandy, came to Ex- mouth and there assaulted the castle, but were valiantly repelled by the guarders thereof. It hath no castle now, but of far better worth than in that age, and in more respect, as graced of late vdth the presence of our royal sovereign King Charles I. Here our river, like the great Sultans and Khans of that powerful monarch, the Great Mogul, pays to her sove- 224 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK III. reign, the mighty ocean, whatever treasure of waters she hath collected from every those fills, brooks, riverets, streams and rivers whatsoever fore-spoken of ; as they at their decease to the emperor what so they have by any means whatsoever wrung, wrested, or exacted from their inferiors. It is a barred haven, and before the mouth thereof stand two huge stones or rocks, (a great and a less,) called Chick-stones; (it may be rather, chuck- stones, as choaking the haven;) of which is grown a usual proverb in these parts : for if anything stumble us or be a rub in our way, when we are hasty, if anything hinder our purpose, or if we desire to be rid of any thing, we forthwith wish it to be on Chick-stone. We have this far proceeded in our discovery without danger or obstacle; the weather continues fair, the wind calm, the coasts clear, the sea smooth, a trim tide, be pleased to take a boat and view the eastern coasts as far as Lyme, (the limits or marches of our shire;) the law and necessity of our journey and talk exacteth no less. I am enforced to say with the good old knight, — " Whate're bety'd, for sithe I have begonne, My journey will I follow as I kone." If your stomach wamble (as mine hath often done at first setting forth,) your health may be better by evacuating choler, which once well purged, (I may perchance escape the clearer from censures, taxations, and aspersions,) we will land at every river's mouth, where and when you please : the steers- man at helm is at your command. CHAPTER IX. The Passage of the River Otter. The river Otter, or river of Otters, (water-dogs,) taking name from the abundance of those animals, (which we term otters,) sometime haunting and using it. The first spring is near Otterford and Hackpendown, by Church- Taunton; where, in an open field called Churchen-ford, (where stands not above a house or two,) is kept a great yearly fair, on the feast-day of St. Paul. It was the inheritance of Todenham in the reign of King Henry III. Chap. IX.] view of Devonshire. 225 and after some descents his heir sold it to Damarel of Woodbury. So pass- ing by Yarcombe, (possessed by Stretchley in the 29th Edward III.,) Luppit, Upottery, (which thanks our river for its name,) and Roridge, held by Sir Nicholas Cheney 5th Edward II., whose nephew, Sir Ralph, (by match with Joan, daughter and coheu* of Sir John Pavely, Lord of Brook, added the lordship of Brook : so this family became potent. And his nephew again. Sir Edmund Cheney ( by his son. Sir William,) married with Alice, aunt and heir to Humphry Stafford, Earl of Devon, and his two daughters and coheirs thus married, EUzabeth to 'Sir John Willoughby, knight, and the other to Sir John Colshill, knight, whereof the second died sans issue; so that all that fail- inheritance fell to Sir Robert Willoughby, created, by King Henry VII., (being steward of his house,) Lord Willoughby of Brook; who married Blanch, daughter and sole heir of John Champernon of Beer-ferrers, had only one son, named Robert ; whose two daughters and coheirs enriched with great possessions two noble families; for Elisa- beth was wife to John, Lord St. Johns, Marquess of Winchester, and Ann to Charles, Baron Mountjoy. Here is seated a generous family of Preston; of whom was not long since Captain Preston; a man very well qualified in all arts, and for many good parts commended and beloved. Sir Amias Preston. Mohuns-Ottery ; which to the name of the river adds also the ancient lord. Sir Reginald Mohun, or Mojrun, or Moun ; who was not only Earl of Somerset, but also (and therefore not to be passed without special note,) created, by Pope Innocent IV., Earl of Ests, (which is interpreted an Apos- tolical Earl ; as those created by the Emperor, Earls Imperial ;) by deli- vering a consecrated golden rose and a yearly pension upon the high altar of St. Paul's church in London. These Earls had power (under certain conditions,) to institute notaries and scribes, and to legitimate such as were base born. This knight had also an addition to his coat armor; for whereas it was before gul. a manch mal-tayle erm.: there was added, a hand proper holding a fleur-de-lis or. I thought it not altogether needless to insert this, (for there are some, and I think not a few, that never heard or read of any such earls.) This Mohuns-Ottery, with Galmeton, and Munckton, and Stoke Fleming, came by Eleanor, one of the heirs general of the line to John de Carew : now it 226 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK III. is Southcote's; a fruitful and flourishing family. Tliis gentleman married Pole; his father, Seymour: his son. Sir Popham. Yonder monastery of Dunkeswell was founded by Sir William Brewer, an abbey for Cistercian Monks, which (obscured by the concomitants of wealth, ease, and rich fare, and that succeeds them, or rather springs of them,) was suppressed, or if you will have it rightly, surrendered, 30th Henry VIII., and valued (not at the highest, I think,) at £298. lis. 9d. On the right hand we leave Munckton, (or Muncks-Town,) where a generous family of the Lentals doth inhabit ; and on the left. Off- well : and so come we to the borough of Honiton, to which is adjoining the manor of Northcot. The borough of Honiton. This town claims priority for antiquity be- fore many other. But for the name, if I should say it was taken of the abundance of honey there made or found, I persuade myself you would smile ; and yet that must not be altogether sans reason, in regard of the neighbourhood of the hUls adjoining, on whom abundance of thyme or tyme grows, in which these pretty creatures are much delighted and feed most wiUingly thereon ; whereof the poet speaks, — "Crura thymo plena." There thighs with thyme laden were : For thyme he means honey there. But the cause of the name cannot easUy (but rather difficultly) be known but by conjecture which as it doth sometime deceive the imagination, so it doth also, and as often, (grounded upon probable reason,) hit the white, and expresseth the aimed-at verity. It is a great thoroughfare from Corn- wall, Plymouth, and Exeter, to London; and for the better receipt of tra- vellers, very well furnished with Inns. Isabella de Ripariis (abas de Forti- bus,) gave it (when the heirs male of that noble family failed,) to King Ed- ward I.; in whose reign Gilbert de KnovU had it : ex dono regis. But be- fore that, in the reign of King John, Fulcasius de Brient, Fulco de Brient, (aUas Fulco de Breant,) held the borough in the right of Mable, ahas Mar- garet, his wife, daughter of Robert, Earl of Mellent, the rehct of WUliam de Vernon, Earl of Devon. This was generally held an unfit marriage for her as it seems, and not veiy well agreeing with her mind; (but it was the king's pleasure to have it so;) but their love was little, as may be gathered out of these verses, which were then dispersed : — Chap. IX.] view of devonshirk. 227 "Lex connectit eos, Amor ,et Concordia Lecti. Sed qualis Lex ? Amor qualis ? Concordia qualis ? Lexexlex; Amorexosus; Concordia discors." Join'd by law, by love, by concord in bed : What law ? what love ? or concord may it be said ? Lawless law ; hateful love ; Concord, discord did prove. Here is made abundance of bone lace, a pretty toy now greatly in request; and therefore the town may say with merry Martial, — " Ills ego sum nulli nugarum laude secundus." In praise for toys such as this Honiton to none second is. Their Saturday's market, for all kind of victuals, fowl, fruit, and com, is accounted next the best in this country: their yearly fair is on St. Mar- garet's Day. And here they say the lord hath veiw and assize of bread and ale, his tumbrel and pillory. Gitsham, a long time the seat of Beamont, a worthy race. Once in their time there befell a pretty accident, which I could well forbear to relate, but that I perceive you are somewhat melancholy you shall have it therefore to quicken your spirits and make yourselves merry withall ; for, as noble Sir Giffery said, so say I : — " If so that it may please you, Then wote I well it is good ynow." Sir Thomas Beamont, knight, (son of Henry Beamont, esq.,) had very fair issue — six sons at least, besides daughters, but by two venters: by the first, Richard, WiUiam, and Philip ; by the second, Thomas, Hugh, and John. Richard, the eldest, died without issue ; William, the second son and heir to his brother, after much wooing, suiting, and courting, ob- tained Mrs. Joan (whose daughter I speak not,) and married her ; and the general conclusion was verified, — " Nullum violentum est perpetiium :" — Those things that are violent Are never permanent : — for after a short time that he had entered new Elysium, his violent fancy forsook him, and fell so far on the contrarv hand that — VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [ BoOK III. " Et quam modo voverit odit :" — For what he most desir'd of late He now doth most extremely hate :— for delighting in variety of pasture, or possessed with some other suspecting fancy, estranged himself both — a mensa et a thoro — from table and bed ; and she being then in prime of her age, fmding herself thus neglected and disjected, took it very unkindly, and lived, as Cressidas was said to do in her father's absence, — "And as a widow was she all alone, And mist to whom she might make her moan ;" but having no long nor settled fancy to this solitary, cloister-like, recluse life, she received visits of her kindred and friends. Among divers gentle- men that came to comfort her, one grew more familiar with her than any of the rest, even to her own contentment, for he was — Prompt and discreet both in word and action, And doth her business with good satisfaction. By their often and secret meetings and private conference together came so good success that a pretty boy was conceived and born, which she secretly bred up ; and might well do by reason of her husband's continual absence; and no notice was taken thereof. At length William, the husband, deceas- ed, and PhiUp, his brother, (for want of known issue) succeeded him ; and he also having no issue, conveyed his land to Thomas, his next brother by his father's second wife, and to the heirs male of his body; who for a time quietly possessed it ; until John, the son of Joan, (wife of William,) came of age, who presently made claim to the land as right heir to William his father. This was the seed sown of many and long suits in law almost in all courts ; divers parties and friends on each side, and as many several opin- ions of the lookers on that played not the game. Mrs. Joan pleaded for her honesty, fame, and reputation never spotted, ever without scandal and aspersion. The case was spun out to a tedious length, and in fine was made a case for parliament in the reign of Henry VII., which censured John to be a bastard, and so to be proclaimed throughout all England ; yet there is no act found thereof, neither was there ever any as I suppose; for after, by a composition, John had 80£. land allotted him, (whereof this Chap. X.] view of Devonshire. *229 manor of Gitsham was parcel,) and he to be named John Bodrugan, as son to her second husband, Henry Bodrugan. This accident calls to my memory a facete epigram made, as I remem- ber, by a worthy and pleasant conceited knight, Sir Jolin Harrington, upon the like occasion, and speaks thus, — " When Cajus did remain beyond tlie seas And follow'd there some great important suit, His land did bear nor oats, nor beans, nor peas. And yet his wife bears fair and well-grown fruit. What is the cause that brings his land sterility, And his wife fruitfulness and great fertility ? His lands want occupiers to manure them, But she hath store and knows how to procure them." Now having done with this sport, we will proceed to what is more serious. CHAPTER X. Of Ottery St. Mary, and other places near it. Now as we pass to Ottery St. Mary, by the way our river is enlarged with the streamlet Tale, who shows himself first not far from Broadhem- bury, by that large name known from another his neighbour, Payhembury. Here, at a place called Hembury-ford, is kept a yearly fair on St. Andrew's Day. In this stands Combe-Ralegh, which speaks his ancient lord ; now the seat of one of the ancient family of Drew ; purchased by Edward Drew, sergeant-at-law; whose great knowledge, sound counsel, and uprightness in judgment, won him a general love and due respect in his country. He descended from the ancient Drews of Sharpham. He married Fitzwilliams : his son. Sir Tho- mas, married Moore. Payhembury; (held by John Giffard in Edward I.'s days; Bishop Walter Stapeldon, and the prioress and convent of Polslo had property in this parish;) of which name I heard a gentleman once pleasantly say, "I love Hembury well, but not Pay." He spake that merrily, (that many gentle- men do in earnest,) for he paid his debt so well that I heard his executor 2g 230 TIEW OF DEVONSHIRE, [ BoOK III. say, at his death he owed not a penny ; which I might register for a marvel, for it is not ordinary. Here is a plant of the Willowby's set ; which hking the nature of the soil, prospereth fairly and spreads. He married Sten- nings : his father, Culme : his grandfather, Spencer. Owlescombe. Of this name I remember I have read of a generous tribe in this county; it may be he was of this place : his armories, alluding fitly to the name, which was arg. a bend engrailed between two owls sab. Feniton, passed in our time to Gary from Kirkham, whose predecessors had it by the daughter and heir of MaUierb ; with which name his coat armor consorted rightly : — or a chev. between three nettle leaves vert. Now whether he took name of the charge of his arms (as Hugh Lupus, se- cond Earl of Chester, son of Richard, smniamed Goz, Viscount of Avranches in Normandy, is said to have done, by bearing a wolf's head eraz. arg. in a field azure,) or by the herald's gift, alluding to his name, I will not take on me to determine. This place is memorable only for that in the 3rd year of King Edward VI. some 6000 hair-brained simple (no cowardly) commo- tioners, (no more said our fathers that then lived,) but the history 10,000 taU soldiers, first made insuirection in Cornwall and by degrees begirt the city of Exeter wath a siege ; yet unable by divers (and those sharp and desperate) as- saults to prevail, proceeded eastward to this place, hoping their bulk would, like a snowball, (for like that it soon melted,) increase and multiply as it rol- led forward. Hither they came, and in a fair meadow spread their colours. To encounter whom Lord Russell was ready, with the Lord Gray of Wilton. (Under whom served a band of Italians, 300 strong.) The general having the better cause, thought it to stand with his honour to give the assault, and offered to enter their fortification which they had made at the bridge, which was courageously attempted, and with hke violence resisted ; the like they did vahantly divers sundry times, and so often strongly repuls- ed: but in fine the bridge was taken; then forcing the main battaUon of the commotioners, the fight for a while was sharp, cruel, and full of blood; but (as it is most often,) the worser cause had the worst success ; they were put to the rout and fled. The chase was not long followed, for the Itahans disbanding, fell to the spoil ; which soon the rebels perceived, they suddenly reordered themselves, and wheeling about began a second more sharp fight, furious and violent, full of desperate resolution ; but their arrows spent, and the general supplying his men with fresh troops, they Chap. X.] view of Devonshire. 231 were again scattered, leaving 300 dead in the place, and then retired to Clist ; where what was their catastrophe you have already understood. But for a conclusion of this matter, if I should relate what hath been vulgarly reported, (and verified by some that felt it,) of the strength, and force, and resolution of these commons, (the archers especially,) you might, peradven- ture, take it vdth some doubt lest it increased somewhat by time or penning, but I intend to gather no more harvest than comes of the seed of truth. Passing by Buckrell, Talecourt, and Tallaton, in which stand four poor cotes, or cots, (in times past cottages) Tenements, distinguished by the four chief points of the compass, Eastcot, Westcot, Northcot, Southcot, and so seated from the church, standing as centre; all of which, in former times, were inhabited by some of the same denomination, though all now altered. They were all poor cottagers, of whom one gave this metre, which though it seemed old, savours not of antiquity, but howsoever 'tis true, — " Of borrle coats yclipt they were 'Tis lich sooth vor they were erst That fvorst this name ytaked. Than palaces ymaked." Of the now possessors I know only the Jjord of Southcot, who hath beauti- fied it with a house far beyond a cottage. It is now the seat of the chiefest and most accomplished treasurers of the choice antiquities of this county; [Sir WiUiam Pole;] and if it had pleased him also to have been the illus- trator, the worth of the natives of this proxince, and his own sufficiency, would have been the more vulgarly expressed and known, the one for the other ; but he is seriously employed in matters of more importance, and much more necessary. But if we shall meet him at his chiefest residence, and at convenient leisure, we will entreat him to vouchsafe us some direc- tions for our travel the remainder of this journey for our better proceeding; and he is so generous, afiiable, and courteous, and so respecting to all lovers of antiquity, that he can deny them nothing they demand; yea, he holds it a favour done to himself that they will be beholding unto him. We pass Rockbear and the next mile with great ease and pleasure, for by the evenness and smoothness of the walk it is termed fair-mile : and we will haste from Strictwood, alias Streat-wood-head, as speedily as we may, for many have feared and shunned it, and others have paid heavUy for their passage or before they were suffered to pass ; for in former times it was very infamous for sheltering of thieves, and a place fit for robberies, and there- '232 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK III. fore remembered as a cautionary note for such as are to travel that way: hut it is now made a more open and large way, and hath not lately merited any such scandal, but as freely passed as any other place on London way. We are come to Cadhay, the house of the race of Hay dons. He married Da- vie : his father, Pawlet : his grandfather, : his son, Gould. And here Tale falls into Otter. The borough of Ottery St. Mary. This town taketh name of the river; and as it is ancient, so is part thereof (or lately was) ancient demesne. The foundation was from Edward the Confessor, and by him given to the dean and chapter of Rouen. In their possession it continued the reign of nine kings ; all which time the dean of Rouen sent yearly his officers for their rents and perquisites ; which was so chargeable, troublesome, and sometimes dangerous and miscarried by the way, that they desired to sell it, and met with a very fit chapman, John Grandisson, Lord Bishop of Exon, who, in the time of Edward III., purchased it ; and being zealously affected to the curious and ceremonious liturgies of those times, did here institute and or- dain a quarter college of secular priests and other secondaries and choris- ters, according to the order of the cathedral of St. Peter's of Exon, allowing for their continual maintenance the whole hundred (this only parish,) and manor ; not only lands, rents, profits, and perquisites, but together there- with the garb and tythes, with all spiritual profits and commodities to the church any way belonging out of that parish and hundred ; which, with other incomes and sundry other gifts, amounted at the surrender, 30th Henry VIII., to the yearly value of £304. 2s. 9d. It was (as it should seem) inhabited and manured by bond-men ; which, redeeming their freedom, held their land by sundry services and customs ; some, Saxon ; some, French ; some, English ; and some customary of five acres : some, socage tenure ; other, old Barton ; other some, new Barton ; and some, freeholders : every of which had several customs appropriate to themselves, whereby many questions and differences arose among them. It hath a weekly market every Tuesday, and three fairs ; one the Tuesday be- fore Whitsuntide, another the Tuesday before Palm-Sunday, and the third the 1 5th of August. In this parish is Thorn, sometime the inheritance of Walter Thorn, or Gwalterus de Spineto, under Henry III. By a sister and heir of Roger of that name it came to the family of Cook, who married Sherman : his father. Chap. X.] view of Devonshire. 233 Copleston : his grandfather. Garland. At Knighteston dwells Mr. Sher- man ; at Salveston, FowUng ; at Holcombe, that gave denomination to a tribe that long possessed it, but lately alienated to Eveleigh ; at Ash, which Malherb sometime held, is now a younger branch of Walrond. But now let us visit the church, sometime a quarter college, and had chancellor, treasurer, and dean, with all other things answerable thereto ; of whose ancient interments there are divers monuments to be seen, but so out- worn with age as no certain knowledge is to be had what they were; for neither arms nor inscriptions are perpetuated to these times. A few neoterique epitaphs are these, — "In obitum ornatissimi viri Johannis Haydoni Armigeri. (1618.) " Dicite, mortales, Quis fructus divitiarum Hinc quum demigrans vita petita fugit ? Dicite quam multum dives sit paupere major Cum fera mors ima tollit utrumque die? Omnis homo foenum est, levis et vanescit ut umbra Nulla est in faedis vermibus esca manet. Indicat hoc nobis tua mors, Haydone, dolenda, Quae siccas hominum non sinit esse genas. In patriam beuefacta tuam permagna supersunt. Quae poterant multi multa referre viri A rege Henrico primus diploma parasti, Floreat ut literis laeta juventa bonis, Ludus ut erectus fiat et Rectoria clara Effecit studium sedulitasque tua. Sparsit ubique tuam pietatem pons nevus infra Inque Deum monstrat porticus ista fidem. Legum cultor eras, semper dilectus egenis, Impia devitans jurgia, pacis amans. Vos igitur pueri, juvenes properate senesque, Et mecum Haydoni tradite corpus humo. Illi qui meruit praeconia reddite justa, Funus et elegiis concelebrate suum. Dicrte, Livor abi, tandem post funera cessa, Spiritus Haydoni nam loca sancta tenet, Qui multa in tcrris vivens benefacta locavit, Qui Christo scdem jam capit ille suam." The superscription on him and his wife is thus, — " Hie jacet Johannes Haydon de Cadhay, Armiger, ct Johanna uxor ejus, 234 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK III- consanguinea et haeres Johannis Cadhay, quae fuit uxor Hugonis Greinvile generosi; qui quidem Johannes fuit primus gubernator incorporatus hujus Parochiae ; et obiit sine exitu nono dia Junii, A. D. 1587. Dicta autem Johanna obiit sine exitu decimo nono die Decembris, A. D. 1592. Pro qviibus sit laus Deo." " Epitaphium Amicii Haydon, filii Roberti Haydon Armigeri, qui obiit 12 Januarii, An. Dom. 1614. "Quis jacet hie queeris percussus vulnere mortis ? Virtutis socius nobilis, alter Ajax. Mortuus ah! dixi? Revoco; sic esse videtur ; In coelis vivit, nescius ille mori." " Sarah Haydon filia Roberti Haydon, Armigeri, Quae obiit 24 Aprilis, An. Dom. 1620. "Apollo moist this tomb with tears, Wit's perfection with pure spirit For such great loss in tender years : Doth an angel's place inherit. Virtue's hope now is dead, Stay in that celestial sky, And from earth to heaven fled. Where thou shalt live and never die." On John Turling, gentleman : — " Terra cadaver habet, Spiritus astra colit." Upon John Sherman, who died and his son both in one day: 1617 : — " Under this monument lies one Yet this seem'd short, the other strong. Did good to many, hurt to none ; His life above, his death here under. Friended the rich, reliev'd the poor, Was full of goodness, full of wonder. Was kind to all. Who can do more ? Six years beyond man's common age That loved hospitality, He walked here in pilgrimage ; That loathed prodigality ; And then one month, one very day, That rais'd his state and portion. Took both the sire and son away ; Yet used no extortion. As if time for the sire and son Each dweller and each tenant roar'd As much as time could do, had done ; For such a neighbour, such a lord. Making them live and die uneven. When aged weakness did possess And yet to live as twins in heaven. His aged body, netheless Let us that are here standing by His steps, his church-path, so would wear. Learn so to live and so to die, The church should often have him there. That after life's and death's annoy His limbs were weak, his walk was long. We may revive and live in joy." The epitaph of Dorothy, his wife, sister to John Drake, of Ash, esquire : — "Within this monument doth also lye A pattern true of our infirmity ; Chap. X.] view of Devonshire. 235 Whose infancy, childhood, youth, and age, Was still attended by the wrathful rage Of that which crept in by our father's fall ; Her welcome entertainment, end, and all, Seem'd all alike, from first till latest breath, She always seem'd to die a willing death. Small griefs sometimes seem great, but her's were so, As greater seal'd or never made less show. These were her passions : now her actions stood Like the Samaritan's, intitled good. Had she a respite from her proper woe, That day should respite others' pains also. It was her custom and her comfort here, As soon as her own rod did disappear, The comfortless to comfort, and restore, According to her talent, sick and sore. Hence envious death did slay without remorse, Her, that in others did withstand his force ; And pitiless to her no pity yielded 'Cause others' pains she pitiful relieved. What needs more ? works show her life was action : Her dying words — her death was contemplation." She died 27th August, 1G'20. Upon the wife of Gideon Sherman, esquire, the daughter of Nicholas Fry, of Yarty, esquire, who died the first week of her marriage: (1618:) — " If wealth, wit, beauty, youth, or modest mirth. Could here persuade, entice, prolong, beguile, Death's fatal dart, this fading flower on earth Might yet unquail'd have flourished awhile But wealth, youth, beauty, wit, nor mirth, nor all, Can stay or once delay when death doth call. " No sooner was she to a loving mate From careful parents solemnly bequeath'd. The new alliance scarce congratulate But she from him, them all, was straight bereav'd. Slipping from bridal bed to funeral bier, She soon fell sick, expir'd, — lies buried here. "O Death! thou niay'st have waited on the field, On murd'ring cannons, wounding sword and spear ; 236 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE, [BoOK III, Or there where fearful passengers do yield At every surge each blast of wind doth rear ; 111 stabbing taverns, or infected towns, On loathsome prisons, or on princes' frowns, " There, not unlook'd for, many one abides Thy dreadful summons : but a nuptial feast Needs not thy grim attendance : maiden brides In strength and flower of age, thou may'st let rest. With wings so weak mortality doth fly. In height of flight, death strikes, we fall and die." CHAPTER XI, Of CoUiton-Ralegh and Sir Walter Ralegh. Then come we to CoUiton-Ralegh, by which addition you may perceive to whom it anciently belonged. Sir Wimond de Ralegh had it in frank marriage with the daughter of Robert de Chilton in the reign of King Henry III. ; and lately and last in the name of Sir Walter Ralegh, knight, captain of the guard to Queen Elizabeth, and warden of the stannaries ; a man of noble descent, rare gifts, and great sufficiency : the knowledge of whose varieties of fortunes (as a sea driven with variable winds and tides,) may give example to future ages of her unconstant dalliances and of the unstayed fehcity of this hfe, void of any the least assurance, what firmness soever it promises : he might well have said to that inconstant dame as Demetrius out of JEschylus, that ancient poet, — "Thou seems't to have begotten me on purpose for to show Thy power in lifting of me up me down again to throw." He was a younger brother, and spent his youth in the university, his riper age in wars and travel ; and in his most chief age came to court, where he wanted no favours of his sovereign, nor in himself sufficient abilities to con- tinue them. But there is no man that hath discretion and judgment per- fect at all times ; — " Semel insanivimus omnes ;" He is very wise and sage That plays not the fool once in his age ; Chap. XI.] vikw of Devonshire. 237 especially the aspirer, who is credulous in all things which he either wisheth or is conformable to his hope ; yea, sometimes his ambition makes him be- lieve dii-ectly contrary to wisdom and reason, so that when they think their honour spun and woven, their estate, with the web of their life, is suddenly broken ; for as by one little gate left open oftentimes great and strong cities are lost, so by one only treason all infinite good parts are not esteemed : as manifestly appeareth by this knight, for in his latter days accused of a fault foul and fooUsh, at his arraignment was very attentively heard to speak the great part of a whole day, where he showed such eminency of wit and elo- quence, that the major part wondered and sorrowed, and all admired, that one so absolutely furnished with understanding and experience should con- sent to a project so odious and simple. All his subtle evasions and acuity of wit could not palliate his offence from the understanding of the inquest, but he was found guilty and had sentence of death. But grace for that time favourably superseded his execution, and he was returned prisoner to the tower ; where in the time of his imprisonment (surely adversity and imprisonment, as Odet de la None, Lord of TeUgni, plainly proveth is nothing so ill as it is made, misfortune is good sometime,) he erected to himself a most rich, admirable, fau*, and ever durable monu- ment, which will ontlast the royal sepulchre that Artemisia (that loving Queen of Caria) built for her husband. King Mausolus, held one of the world's wonders : but he did as Horace speaks of himself, — " Exegi monumeutum aere perennius Regalique situ pyramidum altius Quod non imber edax, nou Aquilo impotens Possit diruere; aut innumerabilis Annorum series et fuga temporum." A monument more lasting tiian is brass, And kingly pyramids in height that pass, I finish'd have ; which neither piercing showers, Nor furious wind, nor course of years and hours, Though numberless, Shall raze or demolish. I intend that excellent work of his, the History of the World, by him writ- ten in prison and published. But being, after a time, freed and set at hber- ty to command in a sea action, a relapse, of what quality I cannot speak, 2h *^® VIEW OP DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK III. aggravated, as is supposed, by a heavy and envious adversary, he left his head on the scaffold, I cannot nor may not ascribe all these passages to the mutability of for- tune's changeableness, but rather come nearer to the truth, and say with Stobseus out of Euripides, — " Some punishments by men's own follies come, By God's just judgment often other some." And to speak somewhat of the variety of censures, of his worth, valour, wit, and other abilities, (both before and after his death,) in regard that some of his actions expressed man's frailty and weakness, and showed him a right natural man, desirous to prolong life, (so dear are a few Ungering hours of life to all mankind, and christian knowledge teacheth us how much we owe to nature, not to neglect any means for our preservation,) they are not un- worthy a serious meditation : let him express himself in a sentence of his own, treating of a matter much resembling this : "As fortune's man rides the horse, so fortune rides the man ; who, when he is descended and on foot, the man taken fi-om the beast and fortune from the man, a base groom beats the one and a bitter contempt spurns at the other with equal liberty:" and therefore I think the question moved by a noble and religious poet well worth observation and due consideration : — " Say that one might fortune choose Under heaven to have his will ; 'Twould be a doubt among the wise Whether it better were to rise To high estate, or sit still." But since we must play our part in this world, (every man his own for his time,) we may observe these mutabilities and alternative changes, and see how this spoke of the wheel is now highest and suddenly again lowest, and never constant at any time. When we are well, let us rest contented, and carefully and patiently follow the counsel the poet giveth us : — " Nemo confidat nimium secundis Nemo desperet meliora lapsus Miscet haec illis, prohibetque Clotho Stare fortunam." Let him that stands be wary lest he fall ; Let him thafs down hope he may rise again : Chap. XL] view of devonshirk, 239 The Providence Divine that mingleth all. Chains mirth to moan by links, and loss to gain. We will now forget him, and suffer him to rest in his grave quietly, with his own epitaph : — " Even so is time which takes in trust. When we have wander'd all our ways, Our youth, our joys, and all we have ; Shuts up the story of our days: And pays us but with age and dust, And from which earth, and grave, and dust, Within the dark and silent grave. The Lord will raise me, as I trust." Divers other manors in this county retain yet the remembrance of the name, for it was a faithful tribe, ancient, and worshipful, and of large possessions ; and the branches spread themselves into divers other shires ; and by the general heirs of divers houses of them, have enriched sundry worthy fami- lies ; as Whalesborrow, of whom is the Lord Scales, Mullens, and Hunger- ford, Chichester, and Trevillian. By the way, somewhat on the right hand, we passed Venn-Ottery, alias Fen-Ottery, a dirty place perchance ; for fen and dirt is all one. It was held, in the time of Edward I., by John de Furneaux. Buketon had his name of beech trees, among which it was built, yet none are there now to be seen. But let me remember, it is not safe adventuring near it : some have been there forthcoming, but not coming forth : 'tis true, but I hope none of our company are of that quality whereby they need fear to be stayed, and the case is altered as the world is changed ; for here is now no ill staying, but bountiful hospitality kept : indeed King Henry I. appointed this place for the gayle of the county ; and by the service of the keeping thereof John Janitor held the manor. Joan, the daughter and heir of that race, brought it to Richard Alabalister, alias Balistarius, in the time of Henry IH.; and by a second Joan, sole heir of that tribe, it came to Ralph de Siccavilla, ahas Sachvile, who removed the gayle to Exeter, ad- joining the castle; and by a third Joan, the only child of Humphrey Sach- vile, made it the inheritance of Humfrey Copleston ; whose heirs, after two or three descents, alienated it to Sir Thomas Dennis, knight, together with the keeping of the gayle : and now, by Anna, the eldest coheir of his ne- phew of the same name and rank, (worthy a longer hfe,) it is come to the dignous tribe of Rolle ; of whom elsewhere. It is a very pleasant seat, and for many and those good commodities profitable. I have found Sir Joel de 240 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK III, Bucton upon records very ancient of this country, whom I know not where to place but here. Budleigh adjoins it ; which, though it be no spacious large parish, gives yet name to the hundred of East Budleigh, which numbers nineteen parishes. CHAPTER XII. Of Budleigh Hundred in the Ed^t. The hundred of East Budleigh (as is said,) numbereth nineteen parishes, the honour whereof King Edward II. kept in his royal possession. Herein stands TodwUl; I may guess whence it took name: but that skills not, for it gave it again to a generous race of the same denomination, who possessed it for divers descents ; whose heir female enriched therewith the ancient name of Saintcleer. But the sun shines not here so clear and with that lustre as in former ages; the beams are eclipsed, and the name extinguished ; and the inheritance, by the heir general of that family, is passed to Arscot, who showed me that there was near the house a large pool maintained by a spring so warm, that when aU other weUs, brooks, rills, and springs adjoin- ing are frozen, this only stands clear of ice ; yea, in most extremity of cold weather; and in such times multitudes of fowl of divers kinds flock thither both to his pleasure and profit. On the other side the bank is Otterton ; sometimes a rehgious house ; which, dissolved by Henrj^ VIII., was purchased by Duke, by whom it is newly and more fairly buUt, commodiously seated for pastures, com fields, wan-en, and dove-house. He married Basset : his father Prideaux. Having waited on Otter to Ottermouth, where it unloads herself into the sea ; we must double the headland of Otterton poiut, the shore running eastward with many winding and waving creeks. The wind and tide will soon bring us to Sidmouth and Seaton, in former time very famous ports ; (and every place and man hath but his time;) now the havens are so choaked with sand brought in by the reciprocal course and strength of the tide, and heaped up against them, that they have lost almost all the benefit that ha- vens yield. Chap. XIII.] view op Devonshire. 241 Now we see Sidbury, which hath the first syllable of his name from a rill named Side, made of sundry springs rising in five sundry combes, (so we call valleys,) as Sandcombe, Harecombe, Levercombe, Lincombe, and Bus- combe, aU within the precincts of the parish ; and so can say what no other parish in these parts can, (some would have me to except his neighbour Farway, which, as they tell me, can do the same,) that it receives water from no adjacent parish, but yields within itself so many rills and brooks as when they are joined and made one do increase to the largeness of a pretty river : the other part of the name is taken from a fort within it ; in elder times called a bury, they now call it a castle : it was a military fortification according to those times of some strength, cast up upon some sudden occa- sion. Between Coliton and Southleigh is another such like, called, as I re- member, Blackborough Castle : of either of them I find nothing recorded. Farway, or Fare-way, which, in the time of Edward II., Oliver de Todin- ham possessed. In it stands Netherton, where is lately planted a fruitful branch of the knightly family of Prideaux, and sprung to the height of a baronet. He married Pawlet : his father, the elder baronet, Chichester, Edgcombe, and Reynel ; his father again the daughter and heir of Ellacot of Ellacot. In Sidbury at Sand is a generous race of Huish ; and in that parish Waller and Moor sometime inhabited ; and in Sidmouth, Harlowin. CHAPTER XIII. Of Colyton Hundred mid the Parishes adjacent to that Town. As we pass Sidmouth a small river meets us, called, as I take it, Coly, and nameth Colyton ; which again gives the same name to the hundred ; imder which are eleven parishes : the honour whereof the Earl of tliis coimtv held of King Henry III. in his time. This is a pretty market town, where there is a good resort every Thursday ; and on May- day a fair, and the like on St. Andrew's day. In this parish are yet remaining the two ancient seats of two illustrious families, Colcombe of Courtenav, Earl of Devonshire, and Shute, alias Sheet, of the Lord Bon vile; each of them having their parks 242 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [ BoOK III. and large lati-funds ; [broad acres] but seldom any good neighbourhood, fa- miharity, or friendship between them. This emulation increased at length to a quarrel, and eagerly taken a both sides, about a couple of dogs, or hounds, if you will, which could not by any mediation of friends or inter- cession of their equals be qualified or appeased, until it was valiantly tried in a single combat (which is now by a fitter word termed a duel,) upon Chst-Heath, which manfully and constantly performed by both parties, and after they had well tried one the other's strength and valour, and with their sharp svv'ords, they at last (as it was said of the two kings, Edmund and Canutus, in the Isle of Olney, near Gloucester, 1016,) lovingly agreed and embraced each other, and ever after there continued great love and amity between them. Here Adam de Sampford held land, and in Whitford ; and Rogerus de Valletorta and Alicia Le Basset ; in King Edward I. days. But I may not pass Colcombe thus, before with due respects I tender my services to my honoured and generous friend Sir William Pole, knight, and to entreat his assistance to finish this our journey with some more solid mat- ter, either ancient or neoterique, and some excellent learned discourses wor- thy your observation ; with the old and new possessors of manors, with the lineal descents of antique families ; with whose assistance (richly furnished with the treasury of such like matters,) we shall not only polish and beau- tify our former matters, but more perfectly proceed and finish our whole purposed journey to your satisfaction and contentment. We are come to Southleigh, so named in respect of another Ley, or Leigh, more arctuously placed. This was held by Philip and WilMam de South- legh in Henry III.'s time, and after by OUver de Todenham, together with Bear and Branscomb : for in the age of Edward III. I meet with Richard Branscomb de Branscombe, Arm, and Sir Richard de Branscomb, knight ; all sherifi^s of this county in three sundry years. Here is Edge, anciently written Egge ; possessed, from the reign of Ed- ward II. to our age, by the worthy family of Wadham ; of which race Wil- liam, in the time of Edward III., was justice of assize; of whom is left this encomium, — that being free of speech, yet was it mingled with such discre- tion that he never touched man, how mean soever, out of order, either for sport or spite; but with alacrity of spirit and soundness of understanding managed all his proceedings. The sisters and heirs of Nicholas Wadham, (for he died sans issue,) the daughters of John, being endowed with fair in- Chap. XIII.] view of Devonshire. 243 heritance, brought and divided it among three worthy families, Strangways, Wyndham, and Martin. Dorothy, the rehct of Nicholas, daughter of Sir William Petre, knight, followed her father's worthy example, and erected a very fair work in Oxford, naming it Wadham College, which she endowed with very good livelihood for the maintenance of certain fellowships therein : so that by this it may be proved that this age of our's is not so penurious and barren of pious and charitable works as some adversaries have bitterly scandalized it. Colyford, lying in the parish of Colyton, hath neither market nor fair, nor any ancient matter recorded to grace itself; yet in this our age hath merited a thankful remembrance, for being the native place of a very worthy and valiant soldier, who having passed all offices (not favourably, but deserving- ly,) from the meanest to the highest, by degrees, was, in convenient time, by the abundance of his deservings, honoured with the degree of knight- hood, Sir Thomas Gates ; v/ho being by birth (with Marcus TuUius Cicero,) but de plebe virum, might say with the said consul on as firm a ground, but his modesty would not, — " Ego meis majoribus virtute prselu.'ii ;" Wanting my parent's ancient glory, My virtue shall fill up the story ; yea completely to make him equal to the best of his rank. My purpose is not to derive him from his youth, but pass many of his worthy services in the Ne- therlands and other places for his prince and country ; I Avill only remember that being made a governor of the colony planted in Virginia 1 609, in his voy- age thitherward (over long to be all recorded, for my purpose shall now be to abbreviate what I intend to speak,) in a most violent, cruel, and dangerous tempest, the great God, clothed with might and majesty, by a shipwreck, like another Jonah, made himself the first discoverer of the island called Bermu- das, now Summers Island ; which being formerly supposed not inhabitable, (nay! a hell,) is planted and possessed, and the gospel there preached. His government in Virginia was with so temperate discretion, that ensuing ages will enlarge his commendation, and say that for his many good parts he was a famous man. But why shall I say of him and his like they were, as if he could any time cease to be, whom fame, by worthy deserts, hath made im- mortal. 24-i VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK III. Seaton, which the learned illustrator of Great Britain, reverend Mr. Camden, guesseth to be old Moridunum, which Antoninus speaketh of, and is placed between Durnovaria and Isca (if the book be not faulty,) and called in the table of Pentigerius by a name cut short, Redunum : considering both the distance and the signification of the name : for Moridunum, in the Brit- ish tongue, is the self-same as Sea-tovrai in English, viz, a town upon a hill by the sea. It did belong anciently to the Abbey of Sherborn. Here- unto adjoineth Wiscombe. Wiscombe : where liveth a generous family of Drake ; of which race there were lately two brothers, (besides others,) Robert and Henry: (the sons of Robert:) the first, a colonel of much worth and esteem with the Prince of Orange in the Netherlands; and the other a captain : both taken away in the flower of their age: a great grief to their friends and loss to their country. This place is memorable for being the habitation of the Lord Bonvile, an unfortunate man: ( For unwise I dare not nor may not term him:) yet this may I say by the way, good fortune and wisdom, foUy and ill fortune or mischance, go masked, and that very often under one hood ; yea, unmasked do so near resemble one the other, that they are hardly known or rightly distinguished (by those that look them directly in the face,) each fi-om other, and therefore one bears very often the other's faults ; and on the contrary, one steals away the other's praise and commendation : which is truly avered by Athenseus, when he saith, — " Longissime a sapientia sors dissidet Sed multa perfecit tamen simillima." Seldom the traitor, though much haste he make, Lame-footed vengeance fails to overtake. This extreme mischief succeeded ; first his only son was taken from him by untimely death, and his nephew (the third WiUiam, Lord Harrington, by his mother's right,) slain at the battle of Wakefield ; and immediately after (that his old age might want no kind of misery,) while he waited still and long expected for better days, himself was taken (at the battle of St. Al- ban's,) prisoner, and having now run out his full and long course of nature, could not yet come to the grave in peace, but lost his head ; leaving behind him for heir. Cicely, his grandson's daughter; a damsel of tender years, who brought a large and rich inheritance to Thomas Gray, Marquess of Dorset, half-brother, by the mother, to King Edward V. Chap. XIV.] view of Devonshire. 245 CHAPTER XIV. TJie Progress of tlte River Axe, and the Hundred of Axminster. Axe, a noted river though of no great channel, not far hence, dischargeth herself into the sea ; whose original being (as it were) trans-alpine, beyond our bounds, I will not meddle withall until we meet him at Ford. Thomcomb, or rather Thorny-combe, of abundance of such briars there sometime growing ; (as Thorney, or the Isle of Thorns; now Westminster;) it is the parish in which Ford stands ; so called of the foundress of the mo- nastery, which was anciently called Heresbath : of which place this do I re- collect out of many divers opinions, Richard de Brioniis (son to Baldwin de Brioniis, Baron of Okehampton, and Albreda, niece to the Conqueror,) laid the foundation of a monastery at Brightley, where he was interred, 11 33. But his sister and heir, Adelicia, erected a new structure here, which she named Ford, and removed the Cistertian monks from Brightley hither, and with them her brother's relics, 1140 ; where she herself was also inter- red 1142. This place she so enriched, that the yearly income, at the disso- lution, 1538, was found to be £373. 10s. 6d. ob. It is now the mheritance of Sir Henry Rowswell, late sheriiF of this county, who married Drake. As Axe makes way to name Axminster, it passeth by Membury, now in the possession of the worthy tribe of Fry, sheriff of this shire the first year of King Charles I.: his seat. Yearly, alias Yetty; where Simon de Yetty lived in King Edward I.'s days. He married Bret : his father, : his son. Young. East Membury was possessed by Barnard and Lucas of East Membury under Edward I., where Axe receiveth a benevolence from a riveret that comes from Dalwood to Kilmington, near which stands Yeardborough. John de Yardbrough hved therein Edward I. time; lately possessed by West over, by whose only daughter and heir it came to Drake. Kilming- ton, alias Culmington, held by GeofFiy Knovile, Richard de Merton, Guy Brian, and [query] Pavely .'' Axminster, or Axanminster, the head of the hundred, which hath thir- teen parishes. The first that had the honour thereof, that I find, was Mo- hun, and after the abbot of Newnham by his donation. This toAvn is not 2i 246 VIEW or DEVONSHIRE. [BooK III. so famous for its fine tliread tliere spun, nor Saturday's market, nor Mid- summer fair, as renowned for preserving the monuments of Saxon princes slain at the cruel battle of Brunaburgh, and from thence brought hither. It is situated in the frontier and marches of this province, against Dorset- shire. Robert de Uphey held Uphey in Edward I.'s days. Wycroft, near hereunto, was held by Richard de Tengemue in the same age. Here Reginald de Mohun, Lord of Dunster, the last of the family (in that place,) that was Earl of Somerset, built the abbey of Newnham, 1 246, and gave thereunto the manor of Axminster with all its emoluments ; to which gift are signed witnesses, Richard, Earl of Cornwall, the king's bro- ther; Simon, Earl of Leicester; Henry, Earl of Oxford; John Fitz-GeofFry; Ralph Fitzhubert, Henry Tracy, Hugh Peverel of Ermington, and William Malherb, knights ; with others. He had this manor by the right of the fourth daughter and coheir of William de Brewer, Baron of Torbay. Here is Smalridge, the most ancient seat of the Rawleghs in this county; wherein some have supposed them to be settled before the Norman Con- quest, and say, that one of that race being taken prisoner by the Gauls, at his return built the chapel of St. Leonard's* at Smalridge ; which he the rather dedicated to that saint, for that he was cast on shore on the day de- dicated to that saint ; and in the same hung up his fetters and target of steel gilt : and that the record of all this, together with the foundation of the chapel, his hard imprisonment, and strange escape, was lately and yet to be seen. Cotley, or Cotleigh. A place of that name was anciently held by the name of Jew, a family of good estimation : — Sir Roger Jew in Edward II.; Sir Walter in Edward III.'s time: but in the reign of Edward II. by Tud- denham. At Water (this lyes in Membury,) dwelled a gentleman of the name, and lately. Perry. Then Offwell (where Stephen de OfFwel, Roger le Vere, Mulierade Bra- kisford, WUliam de Perto, and Richard de WhitewU held land in Edward L time;) and Widworthy, whence a knightly family took name : William de Widworthy was in King Edward I.'s days. By Alice, daughter and heir of * More probably St. John the Baptist's chapel; for we find in Brantyngham's Regis- ter, vol. 1. fol. 66, a licence dated 24th March, 1377, to John de Ralegh, knight, to have divine service performed " in Capella Sancti Johannis Baptiste infra manerium de Smal- rig."— G. O.,— P. J. Chap. XIV.] view of Devonshire. 247 Sir Hugh de Widworthy, knight, and his wife, daughter and coheir of Sir Wilham Reigney, knight, it descended to Sir WiUiam Pruz, knight; and then, by AHce, daughter and sole heir of Sir Hugh, (his third son,) to Meoles; and by a wi-it of partition in 17th Edward HI. between his three daughters and heirs, it came to John Northcot, and so it fell to Henry Wotton : and Ahce, heir of that line, gave it, by her marriage, to Chi- chester; and he to a younger son, whose issue now enjoys it. Here a little brook comes in from Northlegh, (an ancient race of genti- lity is of that name in this country, which might take denomination hence;) and all do end at Seaton. And so shall we in this our eastern journey, having seen Musbury, held sometime by Oliver Dinant, nomine dotis de Isabella de Courtenay. In this stands Esse, now Ash, the seat of the knightly family of Drake, who hath long possessed it from Billet and Compton. This knight maiTied Butler : his father. Button : Sir Bernard, his grandfather, a valiant knight, Fortescue. It comes now to my remembrance that I have seen a very an- cient deed, whereunto Waltero Dracone, Wymondo de Dennex, Osmondo, milite, cum multis aliis, are witnesses. In Axmouth is Donne Ralph, in the reign of Henry III. the habitation of Ralph Donne; and some eight descents after Hugh Donne had divers co- heirs, one of whom was matched with Holcombe, to whom, by partition, this fell ; whose successors alienated it to MaUock, who now possesseth it. In the church, awhile since, this coat of arms was to be seen, — Arg. three bars gemels, azure a chev. engrailed gul.; which they say belonged (and so I think they did,) to him. This line, with most of the former, might, with some study and labour, have been pedigristically delineated and made a fair show with much (per chance,) commendation, and without, per adventure, more disgust and sus- pect of hateful partiahty : but that of right belongs to my good masters the heralds ; and I intend not, with others, to thrust my sickle into their har- vest, it being their profession, and which to do rightly their oath enjoins them ; and their practice, wisdom, knowledge, and experience doth enable them. So will I conclude with Bindon, which by Blach came to Weeks, and resteth now among his heirs general. iVnd so this journey is finished. 248 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK III. CHAPTER XV. The conclusion which should be the epiphonema of this Discovery. By following the river Exe in his progress and those other rivers, brooks, and streams, that have added their best subsidy and store to the augmenta- tion of his small beginnings, when we fetched him out of Exmoor, to raise him to that largeness, and profundity, and strength, we left him at Ex- mouth, and three or four more easterly rivers : we have perambulated and taken a superficial view of all the eastern, and part of the southern, division of this county : and now by this time, I suppose, you can censure whether Devonshire may not say with Achelaus in Greece, that famous river, which speaks by Ovid's pen, — " Dominiim me cernis aquarum, Cursibus obliquis inter mea regna fluentem." Of many rivers, lord I stand. With crooked ways that cleave my land. And be you ordained and constituted judges (although you have not as yet viewed a third part,) whether she may not rightly be named De Avonia, the county of rivers : but when, with some better judges and of greater skill, you shall take a full and more perfect view of the whole body of this province, I shall httle doubt of verdict and judgment of my side against all gainsayers. And so much, I must confess, I myself intended and in some sort promised ; and with that resolution was ready, with the words of my instructor, Horace, to comfort my consorts and encourage them : — "0 ! fortes pejoraque passi Mecum scepe viri, nimc vino pellite curas; Cras ingens iterabimus aequor." Valiant and noble hearts, That of my toil have had your parts, Make yourselves merry To morrow we again With a cup of sherry : Will launch into the main. But this former tedious and long journey hath been so wearisome unto my aged years, the ways so intricate, (and no Adriane with her thread to help Chap. XV.] view of Devonshire. 249 me out of a labyrinth,) and the light obscured by the darkness of a long time, yea almost quenched in the pit of obUvion, that I am enforced to say with my former friend and counsellor — " Et mihi purgatam crebro qui personal aurem Solve seuescentem mature sanus equum ne Peccet in extremum videndus et illia ducat;" My genius often whispers in mine ear Leave further travel, for I greatly fear Thy old horse will tire ; and that were shame To put him to 't, being short breath'd and lame ; and therefore in good hope that some one more sufficiently versed and ap- proved in all studies requirable to such a discovery will more eloquently perfect what I have rudely begun, and proceed to the finishing and better furnishing of the other two parts: but I much doubt, as Ovid saith, that — " Fearing my fate, their forwardness may slack, And my ill fortunes justly pluck them back ; Doubting, because I suffer for my pains. Doing the like, the like shall be their gains." I have with great toil and labour proceeded thus far and hie baculum fixi. END OF THE THIRD BOOK. 250 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [ BoOK IV. THE FOURTH BOOK, CONTAINING A VIEW OF THE NORTH DIVISION. CHAPTER I. An entrance into the view and visit of the North Division, I should here endeavour to indite some eloquent and pathetical preamble or complimentary exordium, to countenance, at least to excuse, my rude impolished discourses ; but I will not study for it : and for my apology only divulge and publish that you* who have power to command, have vouchsafed to persuade, that I say not by your authority urged me, to launch forth my weak, crazy, and weather-beaten bark into these rougher seas than erst she hath been acquainted withal; setting short, subject to storms, and where I shall need a skilful steers-man to stand steady at helm, and a good pilot to escape the rocks and shelves : but in hopes of such a consort and Fidus Achates I am not terrified with the poet's rumour, when he saith — " Hark ! hark ! with heed unto the dreadful voice ; The horrid rumbling of his hideous noise," But since we have enjoyed ourselves so far, let us, in God's name, adven- ture one voyage more, always with this caution, that you be pleased to tol- erate my vulgar phrase, and to pardon me if, in keeping the plain highway, I use a plain low phrase; and in rough, rugged, and barren places, rude, rustic, and homely terms : and so how painful soever my labours have been or shall be, I will proceed with pleasing content ; and how simple soever it seem, be pleased to remember who saith — " Multa etiam ab olitore recte atque in loco proferri possunt." * Edward, fourth Earl of Bath, who died at Tawstock 2nd March, 1636-7.— G. 0.,— P. J. Chap. L] view of Devonshire. 251 Even a herb-wife sometimes may Things right and to the purpose say. But let us spend no idle time ; and for our easier and better proceedings let us again return to Exmoor; doubt nothing of the name. After this pause we will with an easy pace ascend the mount of Hore-oke-ridge, not far from whence we shall find the spring of the riveret Linne ; which in his course will soon lead us into the north division : for I desire you should always swim with the stream, and neither stem wind nor tide. This passeth by Cunsbear, alias Countesbury-Coffin, the land sometime of the abbot of Ford, now of Wichhals ; and therein is Coffins Heanton, the land of Basset, now of Scoare; who being a verderer of the forest, hath thereby freely a lees heifer in the forest. Which riveret nameth Lynton, where Galfridus Lovet and Ccecilia de Linne held sometime land ; and spee- dily falls headlong (not a great downfall,) into the Severn at Linmouth : a place unworthy the name of a haven only a little inlet ; which in tliese last times God hath plentifully stoi-ed with herrings, (the king of fishes,) which shunning their ancient places of repair in Ireland, came hither abundantly in shoals, offering themselves, as I may say, to the fishers' nets, who soon resorted hither with divers merchants ; and for five or six years continued, to the great benefit and good of the country; until the parson vexed the poor fishermen for extraordinary unusual tithes, and then (as the inhabi- tants report,) suddenly clean left the coast, unwilling, as may be supposed, by losing their lives to cause contention. But (God be thanked,) they be- gin to resort hither again, though not as yet in such multitudes as hereto- fore. Henry de Linmouth, and after him Isabella de Albino, and now Wichhalse possesseth it: a generous family. He married Pomery: his father, Ackland : his grandfather, Munck. Brendon, lying close to Exmoor, may take his name either of barren down or brent down, for here they used to burn their land to have a good crop of corn. St. Albino, after Heverington, alias Harrington, and now Chichester possesseth it. From this comes a brook that passeth Parra- Combe, or rather Per-Combe, (the a being a usual attribute to words in ancient time,) or Pedrecombc. Here St. Aubin holds land, and Walter, and Squire. To the lord whereof belonged great privileges : and had a prison and execution of offenders within itself. Martins- Hoe, or Martins-Hill, (which owncth his old landlord Martin, 252 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK IV. now Berry,) on the one side, and on the other Trenslo. There Galfridus Trendesho tenet in Trendesho et Stevenaish, now Sevenash. Here the land is so uneven that you shall have these words of hoe and combe often repeated, which signify hills and valleys. In the last named stand Tatchcomb, which Beamond, Muttleberry, but now a younger branch of Chichester, of Arlington, possesseth. This parish is separated from Comb-Martin by bound-stones only; one of which they term hang-man-stone: the reason demanded, it was answered, that a thief having stolen his neighbour's sheep, bound the legs together, and castmg him upon his shoulders, the legs compassing his neck, he came to the stone, (which is some four feet in height, pitched in the earth,) and thuiking there to ease himself for awhile of his heavy burden, the sheep, laid on the stone, on a sudden so struggled drew him backward beyond his power to recover that he was choaked. And now are we clear of this parish. CHAPTER II. Of Comb-Martin and the Silver Mines there. This borough deriveth its name of the situation, being a low and deep vaUey, surrounded with very high hiUs on every side, (toward the sea excepted,) and the addition of Martin from Le Su-e Martin de Turon, a man of much worth, and assistant to WiUiam Duke of Normandy when he con- quered this land; of whom he had this and other great possessions given him : so we name it either Comb-Martin, or Martins-Comb. Some of his issue were called, in those days, Fitz-Martin, and flourished to the height of a barony, and had in time that title from Barnstaple, Dartington, and Ca- mois in Wales : I intend a place, and not the family of the Camois that were barons of Broodwater in Sussex ; of which name Sir John, son of the TiOrd Ralph Camois, freely passed away his wife (daughter and heir to John de Gaydesdon,) to Sir WUliam Panell, knight, and quit claimed all her goods and chattels whatsoever, so at his death she lost her dowry ; as you may see exempUfied out of the parhament records. But I think I have nothing to do with those, but with the Martins ; some of whose posterity. Chap. II.] view of Devonshire. 253 even at this day, flourish in knightly rank in this county, whom in their places we shall observe. They procured this town to l)e made a borough with the privileges of waifs, estrays, wrecks, felons' goods, assize of bread and ale, and pillory, with a market on Thursday, and a fair on Whitsun-Monday. A little river, (that hath as great a name as the second river of England,) Humber, cleaveth it throughout, making, at the town's end, a poor haven, which yieldeth a like commodity. But again to Martin. The heirs general of the elder house, sisters of one William, and daugh- ters of another WiUiam, were Eleanor and Joan ; for so I find in an office taken in Exeter the 26th May, 1326. Et dicunt quod Elionora de Hastings, soror dicti Willihelmi Martini ante nata, (she was after married to Sir Philip de CuUumbariis, knight, and had by him issue,) et Jacobus Dominus Audelegh, filius Johannse alterius sororis dicti WilUhelmi, (for she was first wife to Nicholas, Lord Audelegh ; and secondly, second wife to Henry Lacy, Earl of Lmcoln, Baron of Halton, Constable of Chester, and Lord of Denbigh ; but had no issue by him ;) sunt propinquiores hoeredes dicti WiUihelmi Martini. After some time it receded to the crown : for I find that King Richard II. had to his great favourite, Robert de Vere, fourth Earl of Oxford, of that name, whom he created first Marquess of Dublin in Ireland, and after, in short time, advanced him to a far more eminent title, Duke of that whole kingdom, giving him 1000 marks of land by the year; (with the Castle of Flint in Wales ;) of which land I think this borough and manor was parcel : for Rex Richardus II., 1385, concessit Roberto de Veere, comiti Oxon, Manerium de Comb-Martin cum ahis habendum sibi quousque tot terras conquestatus fuerit in Hibernia, et eas in pace teneret. It returned eftsoons again to the crown ft-om whence it came, and King Henry VIII. gave it to Sir Richard Pollard, whose son sold it to Hancock, whose issue now enjoys it. His father married Newman : his grandfather, Bampfield. The town is not rich ; yet are the people industrious and painful : their greatest trade and profit is the making of shoemakers' thread, by spinning whereof they maintain themselves, furnishing therewith the most part of the shire. The soil is not naturally fruitful ; but manured and improved with sand, lime, and such like, is made much richer, and yields increase to their satisfaction. 2k 254 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE, [BoOK IV. But the ancient inhabitants not therewith satisfied, (nor yet the modern,) they have mined for silver with very rich success, and have verified the poet's saying, — •'' Non tantum segetes alimentaque debita dives Poscebatur humus, sed itum est in viscera terras, Effodiuntur opes irritamenta malorum." Not corn alone and other fruit, for food extracted were Out of the earth ; but they proceed with pickaxe for to tear The very bowels of the same for silver and for gold : The chief provokers unto ill and mischiefs manifold. For this town hath been rich and famous for her silver mines : of the first finding and working whereof there are no certain records remaining. In the time of Edward I. they were wrought ; but in the tumultuous reign of his son they might chance to be forgotten, until Edward III., who, in his French conquest, made good use of them ; and so did Henry V. of which there were divers monuments, their names yet to this time remaining; as the king's mine, the store house, blowing house, and refining house. And lately in om- age, in the time of Queen Elizabeth, there was found a new lode in the lands of Richard Roberts, gentleman ; first begun to be wrought by Adrian Gilbert, esquire, and after by Su- Bevois Bulmer, knight; by whose mineral skill great quantity of silver was landed and refined ; of which he gave a rich and fair cup to the right honourable M^illiam, Earl of Bath, whereon was engraven (as I remember,) this posy, — " In Martin's-Comb long lay I hid, " And adding yet a farther grace, Obscure, depress'd with grosser soil ; By fashion he did enable Debased much with mixed lead, Me worthy for to take a place Till Bulmer came, whose skill and toil To serve at any prince's table. Refined me so pure and clean Comb-Martin gave the ore alone. As richer no where else is seen. Bulmer fining and fashion. "Anno nostrae salutis 1593, Reginse Virginis, 35. "Nobilissimo viro Willihelmo Comiti Bathon, Locum-tenenti Devoniee et Exon." He gave also another, with a cover, to the honourable Sir Richard Martin, knight. Lord Mayor of the city of London, to continue to the said city for ever: it weigheth 137 ounces, fine, better than sterling: on which these verses are yet to be seen, — Chap. II.] view of devonshirk. 255 " When water-works in Broaken-wharf In place call'd Combe, where Martin long At first erected were, Had hid me in his mould. And Beavis Bulmer with his art I did no service on the earth, The waters gan to rear, Nor no man set me free, Dispersed I, in earth did lye Till Bulmer by his skill and charge Since all beginnings old, Did form me thus to be. "Anno nostrae redemption is 1593, Reginae Virginis 35. " Richardo Martino Militi, iterum Majori sive vice-secunda civitatis London." These mines have again been lately renewed, but by such as either wanted skill or other sufficiency to proceed in a business of that quality and charge, and therefore yielded none or little profit. In this parish stands West-Challacomb, a seat of Pruz, with whom we shall meet again elsewhere. In the church were sometime to be seen these armories, — Sab. three lions saliant arg. inscensed'gul. Gul. three bars or. Sab, a gaunt- let with a border engrailed arg. Azure on a chev. arg, three mullets sab, pierced. Gul. on a chief arg. three cocks of the field. In the chm-ch-yard before the porch is erected a fair tomb with this inscrip- tion at the head, — "Christus mihi vita." In the umbril point, — An hour-glass on a death's head. At the foot, — " Mors mihi Lucrum." On the side this memorial, — " Richard Roberts of this parish, gentleman, whose christian faith was approved by his beneficence to the poor, both in his former and later days ; rendered his soul to his Redeemer on the festival day of Christ's nativity, Anno Domini 1622." His four coheirs were married to Westcote, Squire, Amory, and Isaak. Now let us proceed. 256 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [ BoOK IV. CHAPTER III. Of Berry -Nerhert, Bowdon, and Bishop Jewel. Next in our way is Berry, alias, Bury-Nerbert, sometime the seat of Willihelmus Nerbert de Bury ; (such evidence of that name I have seen divers ;) but in this age of Berry, or Bury de Nerbert ; or to speak with the vulgar. Berry of Berry-Nerbert. The vicissitude, interchanging of these names in this manner (being all but one stirp,) is not obvious, and seemed very strange to me at first, (as no marvel was it that it should,) for it did the like to the illustrator of Great Britain, Mr. Camden. But since I have found some such like somewhat (but little) dififering, as John Culme of Culme John, WiUiam Coffin of Coffins- Will, of whom in their places. This tribe hath been of very long continuance in this place, and continueth in worshipful state unto this day; and hath branched forth many fair boughs which have taken good root in sundry other places. In this parish we may not pass Bowdon; for if rare and admirable qualities of our ancestors do merit a grateful acknowledgment of posterity, then ought we most respectively to do the like to the singular natural endowments and super-natural graces of a most reverend prelate here born, that he may live and flourish in perpetual remembrance : by whom (as an especial means,) the sincere religion we now profess received much vigour and strength in its new spring : John Jewel, Bishop of Salisbuiy, a perfect rich gem and true jewel indeed : for if I may allude to the name, there is one that saith, " the price, prosperity, and happiness of Aurelius Augustinus' labours and works; the industrious vigilance of Gregory; the heavenly gifts of Theodosius; the divine spirit of Ambrose ; the golden mouth of Chrysostom ; the sweet vein of Lactantius; the shining style of Fulgentius, are very conspicuous in their names:" so that if any where the observation of Chrysostom be true, that there lies a great hidden treasure in names, surely it may rightly be said to be here ; grace m John and eminent perfection in Jewel. His life is already written in large volumes, and the light of my dim candle might be spared in such a fair sunshine, yet blame me not (intending to illustrate this pro- vince,) to take this fit opportunity to enrich my barren discourse with an ornament of such value. Chap. III.] view of Devonshire. 257 The prime of his age he passed in Merton College in Oxford, where the flowers of poetry and eloquence soon appeared abundantly in him : trans- lated thence into Corpus Christi, he (with admiration) preceded his ancients ; and applying himself to the study of divinity, became so excellent a preacher of the gospel, and had such rare method and other admirable gifts therein, that multitudes flocked to hear him, among whom was Mr. Parkhurst, his sometime tutor, who, at the end of his lecture, saluted him with this dis- tinction, — "Olim discipulus mihi, chare Juelle, fuisti ; Nunc ero discipulus, te renueate, tibi." Dear Jewel thou wert once Do not gainsay, I will be now A pupil unto me; Disciple unto thee. His behaviour was so virtuous that his heaviest adversary, (the dean of the college,) being of a contrary religion, could not notwithstanding forbear to yield this testimony in his commendation — " I should love thee Jewel, wert thou not a Zuinglian. — In thy faith thou art an heretic, but sure in thy life thou art an angel." In the time of persecution he fled, not without divers dangers, to Frankfort ; but God shortening those days in the entrance of Queen Ehzabeth, he was, with other exiles, recalled,, and upon his return expressed such admirable wisdom and learning in the great and weighty disputation, (wherein he had so excellent a gift,) that what St. Gregory Nazianzen wrote in his epitaph upon great St. Basil, did rightly belong to this prelate : his words were thunder, and his life Ughtning, that his adver- saries to shun it, (by tergiversation,) soon quitted it. Shortly after he was preferred to the see of Sarum, where he bore himself so reUgiously that the memory (let me speak in another phrase,) of his assiduity in preaching, carefulness in providing learned pastors, resolution in reforming abuses, bounty in reheving the poor, vdsdom in composing litigious strifes, equity in judging spiritual causes, faithfulness in keeping and sincerity in bestow- ing church goods, was a fragrant sweet- smelling odour, blown abroad not only in that diocese but generally through the whole kingdom. Other his rare endowments I will (for brevity) pass, only note his excel- lent memory, and worthy works both in English and Latin ; especially his unanswerable apology which his near-born countryman. Doctor Harding, his antagonist, with much eloquence endeavoured to confute: of which 258 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE, [BoOK IV. two learned men it may fitly be applied which was spoken, of Jugurtha and Marius, — that they learnt in one, they practised in two contraiy camps with repugnant affections. He died 1571, in the 50th year of his age : of which it is credibly said he prophetically foretold to his friends; and was buried in the cathedral church at Sarum, near that stout champion and prelate of the same church, Robert Wivill ; who, upon a writ of right, fought a duel, for recovery of the castle of Old Sarum. And well it was to place them near together, they being both noble defenders, one of the church land, the other of the church faith. Dr. Humphrey wrote the following epitaph for his episcopal friend, — "D. "Johanui Jewello Auglo-Devoniensi ex antiqua Juellorum familia Budenae oriundo, Academiae Oxoniensis laudatissimo Alumno: Mariana Tempestate, per Germaniam exuli; Praesuli, regnante Elisabetha Regina, Sarisburiensis Dioecoeseos ( cui per annos xi, menses ix. summa fide et integritate praefuit) religiosissimo, viro singulari eruditione, ingenio acutissimo, judicio gravissimo, pietate, humanitate egregie preedito ; Theologiae cum primis cognitione instruc- tissimo; Gemmae Gemmarum, immature fato Munckton-Farleae praerepto; Saris- buriae sepulto, ccelorum civi, Laurentius Humphredus hoc monumentum obser- vantiae ergo et benevolentiae consecravit, Anno salutis humanae Christi merito restitutae 1571. 9o calend. Octob. vixit annos 49, menses 4. Psal. 112. In me- moria aeterna erit Justus." Another epitaph was set on him by Sir John Wolley, knight, principal se- cretary to Queen Ehzabeth, of famous memory for the Latin tongue, and speaks thus, — " Heu! mihi quam celeri fugiunt mortalia cursu Quaeque minus debet surripit atra dies. Vivere tu longo fueras dignissimus aevo : Flende mihi nimium chare Juelle jaces, Moribus, ingenio, Doctrina, Religione : Nulla ferent talem saecula longa virum." Here in this church of Berry-Nerbert was interred Nicholas Harper, and upon his stone this epitaph, — " Harper : the music of thy life So sweet, so free from jar or strife ; To crown thy skill hath rais'd thee higher, And plac'd thee in the angels' choir : Chap. IV.] view of Devonshire. 259 And though that death hath thrown thee down, In heaven thou hast thy harp and crown." Setting hence from the little haven at Watermouth we are present at Ilfar- combe, or Ilfridecombe, and perchance Alfrincomb, which one Robert held at the conquest; Sir Oliver Champernon under Richard I.; and three or four in descent until Richard II. In Henry V.'s reign Sir John Herle pos- sessed it. Queen EHzabeth gave it to Sir William Parr, Marquess of North- ampton and Earl of Essex ; so it came to Sir Edward Gorges, now Baron Gorges of Dundalk in Ireland. It is a pretty harbour for ships of small burden, but dangerous to come in in some winds, especially for strangers; for whose better security they keep a continual pharos to direct their course, which may be called Speculum WalHse, as that Orosius speaketh of Bra- gantia in Galicia, Speculum Brittaniee. The town is one scattering street ; at the end whereof stood sometime a chapel dedicated to our Lady of Thorn. The manor of West Hagington hath changed sundry possessors ; but Dam- mage continues his old Lord, CutcliiFe. In the church I only noted this in- scription, — " Hie jacet corpus Elizabethas Basset quondam uxoris Johannis Basset, quae obiit 24o. die Junii A. D 1419. Cujus anime propitietur Deus in aeternuin." CHAPTER IV. Of Morthoe Tracy, and Moort-Stone. Joining to the sea-shore is Mort, or Mort-hoe, remarkable for being the seat of Sir William Tracy, knight, and the place where for a while he rested in ease; until some ill-affected persons seeking for treasure, but dis- appointed thereof, stole the leaden sheets he lay in, leaving him in danger to take cold. This was the man that, accompanied with Sir Rejmold Fitz- urse, alias Bearson, Baron of Braynes; Sir Hugh Morvill, alias Mortivile; and Sir Richard Bryton, were the four knights who, hearing their lord and master, King Henry II., complain of the unsufferablc wrongs and affronts given him by Thomas Becket, (whom from mean degree he had advanced 260 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK IV. to be Lord Chancellor of England, and afterwards to be Archbishop of Can- terbury;) and yet no man revenged him of tliis insulting traitor, they came presently for England, and on the 29th December, 1 1 70, kUled the said archbishop in Canterbury church; for which fact they fled into divers re- mote places ; and this knight came into this place and here Hved and his posterity; the Pope banning, cursing, and excommunicating, (then so for- midable and powerful, that it made the wind to blow always in his face; whereby grew a common proverb in this tract to those who had adverse for- tune or ill chances, — thou art Uke Sir William Tracy, wind and weather is always against thee:) notwithstanding got great possessions and honour, and added their names to places, as here, WoUacomb-Tracy, Bovey-Tracy, Nymet-Tracy, Bradford-Tracy, and others: concerning whose armories it pleased once Mr. Camden to tell me that the coat noted in this country for his, viz, or, a lion in bend, gul. between two cotizes, sab., was but a supposed and mistaken thing ; and that his coat was the same now borne by the honourable family of the Tracies. [Or, an escallop in chief sable, between two bends, gules.] In an aisle of the church is a monument whose fashion warrants antiquity, and inscription pleads to be his :* at the head whereof is engraven a cruci- fix, and on either side a woman mourning: on the right side three escutch- eons; the first a plain cross charged with five roundles, which may be St. Aubin's: three hons in pale passant; this may be Carew's: two barrs; which may be set for Martin: for the colours are worn out long since, and these men had possessions near. On the other side of the tomb is an inscription or epitaph not wholly le- gible, and on a grey marble his portraiture. * Certainly not : he was buried at Cosenza, in Calabria, and the figure is evidently that of an ecclesiastic in his robes, holding a chalice in his hands. Unfortunately the French inscription is now imperfect, but enough remains to record an invocation of God's mercy on the soul of a member of the Tracy family. Most probably this was William Tracy, the Rector of St. George's Church at Morthoe, for more than a quarter of a century, and the founder of this chantry in honour of SS. Catharine and Mary Magdalene, in the year 1308. He died in 1322, and was succeeded in this Rectory on the 16th December that year by Thomas Roberts, clerk. ( Bishop Stapeldon's Register, fol. 171.) In the Fabric Roll of Exeter Cathedral, A. D. 1323, is recorded a legacy of 20s. to the work ■' De Testamento Dni Willelmi de Traci quondam Rectoris de Mortho." The last Ex-chantry Priest of Morthoe, Thomas Rogers, was in the receipt of a pension of 5£ from the Crown in 1553.— G. O.,— P. J. Chap. IV.l viaw of dbvonshire. 261 I will leave the reading and interpretation to the better sight of one that is more conversant with such antiquities, and show you what armories else I found there. — Barry of six verry and gu. Beaumont. Argent a chevron sab. between three mullets gu. — Way. Or three torteauxes and a file of three azure. — Courtenay. Azure three shovellers' heads erased arg. — Lacy. England and France semi quartered. England with a border of France. — Woodstock. Azure an ass' face argent. Quarterly per fess indented gul. and arg. — Fitzwarren. Now let us proceed on our way. In this parish is a fair bay named Mort-Bay, and would be, per chance, a convenient harbour were it not stopped up by a huge rock in the mouth thereof; which being removed would make a fair bay. This rock they call Mort-stone : how it may be removed — " Hie labor hoc opus est." Though the thing be much deair'd, Great skill and labour is therein requir'd. It is a project of great difficulty, yet there is an ancient bye-word, or pro- verb, by tradition among them, that saith one man may do it. Discretion and folly have often striven for mastery in my speech and actions. Horace pleads for the first. — " Miscc stultitiam consiliis brevem ;" Thy gravest counsel mix With some light trivial tricks ; and speaks well : I will hear nothing to the contrary. You shall know therefore the secret of the matter. Many have been there, and some of very good rank, but understanding the reason that enables him that must do it, with sufficient strength to perform it, have forborne the proof, think- ing themselves (and partly confessing,) not to be born under so happy a constellation ; for Mars must be predominant in Leo : for if he have never so Httle reflex in Aries, Taurus, or Capricorn, there is no hope. If you de- sire to know the consideration of such advisement, you shall willingly; for being divulged abroad, some knight-errant wiU perchance travel hither and attempt it; which may be the cause in time of removing of it. No man, saith the proverb, shall remove it but lie only that is his wife's master. Many of us plain men of the country, of all trades, professions, and degrees, have put our shoulders to it (with good hope,) and our best strength, but it will not 2l 262 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK IV. be: we therefore think it must be a stranger. Some say a Russian; for the women of that cold country think themselves not beloved of their hus- bands if they be not beaten, at least once every week, though causelessly: and an ambassador, that lay long there, told divers pretty tales thereof ; of which this is one, for commonly one draws in another. — " Being ambassador (saith he) from the Emperor Ferdinando to Basilius, Duke and King of Muscovia, I was lodged in the house of a honourable bur- gess in the city of Moscow ; and I saw my host oftentimes to beat his wife upon no occasion; and yet notwithstanding she left not to love him, and they spake still kindly to one the other without the least show of discon- tent ; and yet the woman was often beaten, sometimes with his dagger, or staff, or kicked with his foot." He proceeds. "There was also a goldsmith in the same city, to whom, by means of former acquaintance, I often frequented. I remember his wife sent him word by one of his children, who delivered it in my presence, that he had not beaten his mother so much as once all that week, but if he did not she would neither love him nor provide any more diet for him. The goldsmith, busily employed about his work, little regarded his son's words, neither re- membered the country's custom so generally in use as those naturally born there, (for he was a German, and allowed not of this custom to strike his wife, or to show her any unkind countenance;) yet afterward, upon her im- portunity, (redoubling the message,) he discharged his duty by giving her half a dozen good blows with a cudgel, plucking off her head attire, where- wnth she was so well pleased that she forthwith called him to an excellent dinner presently prepared for him : otherwise, if a week should pass and she not beaten, there could be no quietness in the house, nor should he get a good word of her." I repeat not these tales as alledging these customs for orthodoxal in Great Britain ; but do rather express the strong ambition to rule of that sex which we term weak ; and that the husbands in Russia are, in a sort, compelled to maintain this custom ; and where men are under command or dare do no other, there is no mastery. And so I think that Mort- stone will stand there for ever ; for you hear that my associates that travel with me have no leisure, and per chance as little desire to try this matter, being earnest to coast the country and see George- Ham. Chap. V.] view of Devonshire. 263 CHAPTER V. Of George-Ham and Pidickwell. The parish of Ham, which Verstegan will have to be set for Heyne, and so with the addition of George, to be the residence or seat of George. In this is Cryde, a hamlet, whence the bay under it is named Cryde Bay ; held by St Baldwin le Fleming, Baron of Slane, from whom it came to Belle w and Dillon: now divided among many. Buckland Dinham carrieth his lord's name in his forehead of antiquity; but after Champernon and Chighester. Here is the large barton of Pidiswell, vulgarly Pickwell; compounded, as it should seem, of two or three tenements : for we find that Sir Robert Ferrers, Richard Talbot, and Sir Maugerus de St. Albino held land in Pi- diswell in one age. Yet some will add a third name, and call it Pitchwell, and should take that name upon this note-worthy and remarkable occasion : In the latter days of Henry III. the inhabitant was Sir Maugerus de St. Albino, or St. Aubyn : this knight and his lady are inteiTed in the church, under a fair monument of free-stone, with their representations neatly cut; and lying in his armour makes show of large stature, somewhat more than ordinary. The inhabitants report, from their ancestors, that he was of a giant-like stature, and therefore named Major St. Aubyn; mistaking Major for Maugerus, or Maugis; a common name in those days. Of this knight also the tradition is, that he was of so great and extraordinaiy strength that he was able cast a huge main stone a very large length. The stone is yet there to be seen, and the throw marked out by two erected monuments yet extant, and the stone so weighty that two strong men of this age are but able to lift it. Such a one as is mentioned by Homer to be thrown by Diomedes to ^Eneas : for he saith, — ' Saxum accipit manu Tydides magni ponderis, quod non duo viri ferrent Quales nunc homines sunt." Then in his hand Diomedes took To lift the like in this our age A wondrous massy stone ; Would make two strong men groan. 264 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK IV. Well to come to the name; the distance of these two marks is so large, that the place should thereof be denominated Pitch-well, as if you should say, thou hast pitched well. He might be, I will not gainsay, of great strength and of somewhat more than ordinary stature; but if he were such a giant as they report him, his lady must be his equal, or the monument is not well made, for their proportions are of one stature. For his great force I will not question, for I have seen myself some of great strength, and yet but of ordinary stature. And leaving Camerarius' report of George of Fronsberge, Baron of Mindlehaim, who was known to be of far greater strength than common men, in that he could lift a cannon; we will rest upon a tenant of Mr. Carew's, of Antony in Cornwall, named John Bray, who in this age, in the sight of his landlord, carried upon his back at one time, by the space of a butt-length, six bushels of wheaten-meal, accounting fifteen gallons to the bushel (which is eleven bushels, Winchester,) and the miller, a lubber of twenty-four years of age, upon the whole. All this granted of his stature and strength, yet it could not give the name, (which is that I insist on,) for I find Sir Robert de Pidickswell some forty years before him ; and another of the name yet more ancient. Next came Batcombe thither, then Carew, and now Newcourt. His father married Harris: his grandfather with Dillon. In the church were to be seen these armories, — Argent a cross engrailed gul. between three water bougets sab. — Bourchier. Quarterly argent and gu. per fess indented. — Fitzwarren. Ermine on a plain cross gul. five bezants. — St. Aubyn. Or three lions passant in pale sab.— Carew. Checkee or and gul. a chief verry. — Chichester. Argent on a chevron between three talbots sab. a fleur-de-lis of the first. — Talbot. Barry of six verry and gul. — Batcombe. Argent three lions ramp. gul. — Crydhoe. Gules billety and a fess argent. — Crydwill. Sable three fusils ermine. — GiFFARD, In the churchyard upon* John Newcourt, esq., is erected a tomb with this epitaph, — " This is my home ere trumpet sound And Christ for me doth call ; Then shall I rise from death to life, And die no more at all." And under it, — Chap. VI.] view of Devonshire. 265 " In coelo certe anima est Hue studuit ire." To go the directest way, we must pass by Santon, having the adjunct of court, as where the lord's court was kept : it taketh name of the situation which joineth near the sea, on a large plain sandy strand, whence in the ebb the wind drives the sand abundantly to huge heaps near the house, from which is daily fetched great quantity to manure the neighbouring fields ; and yet never emptied nor lessened, but continually again suppUed by the wind; so therefore called Santon, quasi Sand-Town, It was some- time the seat of Fleming ; lately of Chichester; now of Lutterel. I find in the time of Henry III. a knight of this county by the name of Sir Thomas de Arenis and de Arenisque, whom I know not where to settle fitter than at this place: and it was the seat of Sir Robert de Stockay, knight, in King Edward I.'s days; then of Sir William Esturmy, ahas Sturmin, termed Dominus de Santon, jure uxoris ejus. CHAPTER VI. Of the River Taw, his spring and progress. / Now are we come to the nuptials of the two great rivers. Taw and Tor- ridge ; which solemnity is no sooner finished but by fair embracing incorpo- rated, and so they fall over Barnstaple bar and make their bride-bed in the Severn sea. We may not take either of them, as we find them here in their full growth, but seek their original and nurses, from whom they have been fed to rise to such magnitude : and to begin first with Taw ; we shall find him a very small lake at his birth in Dartmoor, near unto Throwley, which was successively in the possession of the two worthy fa- milies of Pruz and Moeles. South-Tawton, the first begotten of this river ; which was sometime held a hundred of itself : Edward II. held it himself in the minority of the then Earl of Warwick. In this is North- Wyke, the seat of Wyke, a generous ^^^ VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK IV. family of great age. He married Arscot : his father Parker : his grandfa- ther GifFard. Cockatree also came to this tribe by match with the coheir of BumeU. West-Wyke, the inheritance of Batteshill, a family of good respect. He married Hole : his father, Dinham : his grandfather the heir of Wood. And Wiginton, or Wykinton, the inheritance of Milford, lineally descend- ed from the ancient Judge Milford, a man of great worth in his time. Hen- ry I. gave the manor of South-Tawton to William de Bello Monte, or Bea- mont; whose issue male, in the reign of Henry HI. was created a baron : but before him Roger de Tony was possessed thereof. That name was standard-bearer of Normandy in the Conqueror's days; and another Roger, if not the same, was Baron of Flamstead. Spreton, or Spriton, comes next in our view; who called Tabot of Tal- bots-Wyke, chevalier, escheator of Devon ; (no small office in those days ;) in the time of Henry V. landlord : now Kelly and Gilbert. North-Tawton, another adopted child of this river, which William de BeUo-Prato (Beaupre,) held in the 3rd of Edward IH.; but the hundred, which takes name of the parish, and contains nineteen parishes, was in the tenure of Hugo de Valletort, or Vawtor. Sir Joelus de Valletort wrote himself of Tawton under Henry IH., and Sir John in the time of Edward I. By one of the coheirs of OMver Champernon and Egelina his wife, Richard Wood, ahas de Bosco, sergeant-at-law, derived himself from the royal blood of the Earl of Cornwall, and John Wood of Ashridge, in that parish, now from him. He married Copleston : his father, Windham : his son FoweU. Here also is a generous tribe of Cottle, who married Wood : his father, — . My purpose in this my wearisome travel had this end to see and inform myself, and to make use of the best things and observations, but not to feed myself or you with raw indigestible meat or trifles, such as either by their strangeness might cause a suspicion of untruth, or by their vanity add to my other imperfections, a weakness and defect of judgment in choice of intelhgence; nor to depend too securely upon report and what I find any- where written : yet be pleased to be advertised of what I have heard avouched before a right honourable personage and one of the privy-council to Queen Elizabeth, being at the place. There stands a house in this parish named Baath, the inheritance first of the family of Baa, or Baath, and after the inheritance of Samford ; by whose Chap. VI.] view of devonshirk. 267 heir it came to Slader, who descended from the Sladers of Barrow-Down in Kent, and was in his time a justice of peace; who reported, and so did di- vers before him, that before the door of that house there is, in the winter- time, a pool, not made by any spring but by the downfall of rain water, but in the summer-time commonly dry; of which pool this was often observed, that before the death or change of any prince, or some other strange acci- dent of great importance, this pool, in the dryest times, would be so fuU that it would overflow its banks, and so continue to maintain a stream until the matter happened that it prognosticated. "Credi sic ipse volebat," He would have us believe it to be thus, and I can alledge no reason to the contrary; and in divers authentic authors you shall often encounter with the like report : and as I have been informed it hath been in these latter days three times seen in little more than thirty years. Crock-Burnel : a hamlet which by Burnel's coheir came to Cole of Som- erset. Nymet-Nichol was the inheritance of Simon Lamprey, whose heir was married to Parsloe, or Perseulew, of West-Horwood ; two ancient tribes. It hath a fair on St. Martin's day. Taw on the wester side leaves Sarapford, which, for distinction from ano- ther of that name, hath yet his ancient lord's name, Courtenay, joined to it. Here is nothing remarkable, but that the Commons here began their first stirring to assist the Cornishmen in the time of Edward VI., 1549; whose depressing you shall find elsewhere. Honey church, in ancient deeds, Honi-Cheu, is a little parish giving name to a family now elsewhere inhabiting : after possessed by Haydon ; and now by the generous family of Risdon of Bableigh, Bundlegh now, formely Boneley ; so from the Norman you may call it Good-Ley, Lease, or Good Pasture. Robertus de Campeleston, now Champston lorded there; after Gambon ; now Wyndham. It leaves on the right hand Zeal, or Seal, with the addition of Mona- chorum ; for it belonged to the abbey of Buckfastleigh : it is now called Munckton-Seal. Here Pasmore held land; and now the illustrious familv of Seymour. 268 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [ BoOK IV. Then Coleridge, or Coldridge, de Frigido jugo. Alanus held land in Col- *rig, and so did Saulfe in the Conqueror's time. Courtenay, Bonvile, and Basset held land here ; and in the 1 3th King John, Hen. de St. George, knight. Nymet with the addition of Rowland showeth to whom it belonged. Walter de Nimeton held it more anciently, and Copleston more lately. Henry de Umphravile, a potent lineage, held both these last in the time of Edward H. In all this course our river hath been very well nursed by divers rills, brooks, and bourns; but here it receiveth a good assistance to strengthen by a pretty river, made of two riverets not above an hour since, one rising near Puddington. (It may be you have heard of the poor man of Puddington, alias Potington.) Ralph de SiccaviUa, after Cruse, and now Hays possess- eth it. The other rill comes from Witheridge, which giveth name to a hundred of twenty-three parishes, the honour whereof belonged to Robert le Mar- chant; now to Hatch. William Poleyn and Stukeley held land here: now Melhuish. And Dart Ralph took his first name of the river, and gave it to a generous family ; who, giving it to a younger son called Ralph, hath now both names, and is called Dart Ralph. It hath a fair every Midsummer-day, In the church I once saw these armories, — Argent two barrs azure. The second was argent three fusils fess gu. The third, azure three wolves in pale current argent. The fourth, a ladder or bier in bend sab. Azure three shovellers' heads erased argent. — Lacy. In the chancel on a tomb is this epitaph engraven, — " Hie jacet Thomas Melhuish Arm. hujus EcclesisePatronus.qui verum coluit verae religionis et pietatis dogma; Litigiosorum Pacificus; Infirmorum Adju- tor optimus; qui obiit 5to die Febr. Anno 1605." Near it, upon a marble stone thus : — " Here lieth Elisabeth, the wife of John Gaydon, Vicar of Witheridge, who died 21st Octob., 1613. Mors mihi vita." And on another stone, adjoining close unto it, this inscription, — Chap. VI.] view of devonshirk. 269 " Here lieth the body of John Gaydon, sometime Vicar of this, Church ; who deceased the 3rd of Nov., 1620. " Te comitem mihi vita dedit sociala jugalem Mortuus et comitar te quoque : siste gradum." Upon a tomb in the churchyard thus : — " Here lieth Joan, the daughter of Nicholas and Mary Thomas, of Way ; [meaning Westway;] who deceased the 6th Nov., Anno 1627. " The flower is faded, and earth doth possess her; Her soul is in heaven where angels embrace her." It passeth Thelbridge and Morchard, which hath his addition Bishop, to testify he sometime belonged to the see of Exon. In the time of Edward I. Augustine Baa, ahas de Bathe; Sir William and Sir Walter de Baa in the time of Richard I. and King John; from him it came to Holland. The other riveret cometh from Nymet, alias Nympt-Tracy, lords of the manor, (and borough of Bow,) taking his name of the crookedness of the town bending hke a bow, yet nothing so narrow and crooked as that the poet speaks of: — " Rhedaruni transitus arcto Vicorum inflexu;" The lane so crooked was Coaches could hardly pass ; for here the way and street is so spacious and large that coaches may pass fairly at their pleasure; and by that would I remember it hath two fairs kept on the Ascension and St. Martin's Day. Clanaborough, or, as some will, Clowns-Borough, and so it might be in some age, and brook his name, a fort kept by clowns; but I take it to be Cloenesberga in Domes-day Book. It hath (as many other) changed many lords — Punchardon, Rawlegh, Ford, and others. Kennerley, or rather Kingwardly, hath passed from St. Cleer to Dow- rish, and from that name to Northcot. Then pass we by Lapford ; of which name, somewhat to quicken your spirits, I will tell you a pleasant gentleman's o])inion, which is, that it took name upon the like occasion as Gideon, when he made choice of his men at the well of Ha- rod to fight with the Midianites, ^vhen he elected only those that lapped the 2m 270 VIEW OF DEVONSHIREo [BoOK IV, water like dogs ; you shall find the history in the 7th chapter of Judges ; and the addition of ford makes it, said he, very probable. It was the land of Henry Umfravile, of Arundell, and Basset ; and of Oliver St. John, or de Sto. Johanne, in Edward III.'s day; after Umfravile another account says the family of St. George ; whose arms and inheritance, coming by his daughter and heir to Bozome, is now possessed and born by the ancient family of Fulford. Then coming to Brushford, or Brysford, it cleaveth the earth for a larger channel to contain its waters. ( These additions of ford are to such places as in times passed were passages over rivers ere that bridges were buUt.) Abbotsham is a manor here; which from holy uses came to Harvey; and from him, by his daughter and heir, to Paulet. Eggisford, or Egenisford, anciently the seat of Thomas de Bilchester; and under Henry III. Sir John de Re\Tiey wrote himself of this place, which was a tribe of sundry descents in these parts, and one of them a reverend judge of great fame in his time. A daughter of this house enriched a second house of Copleston therewith ; whose issue male fading in the fourth de- scent, the sole heir of John brought it, with herself, to Sir Edward Chi- chester, knight ; now Viscount Belfast in Ireland. Wemworthy belonged to the family of Le Espeke. In this stands Rashley, belonging to that name ; but now to Clotworthy of Clotworthy, who married with the daughter of Rashleigh, and so had a house of his own, and another of his wife's name. His father, Parker: his son, RoU and Lawrence. CHAPTER VII. Of Affton and the Family of Stnkely, Here we are enlarged by a river that riseth near Crecombe, or Craw- combe, which Angerus held, and now Harris of Lifton : and passeth by Rakenford, alias Rachenford. In the Saxons' time it was a borough pri- vileged with certain hberties and freedoms; but that it was such a place Chap. VII.] view of Devonshire. 271 then, it yields but little show, as Lidford does, now. The Cruses, Syden- ham?, and Kingstons held land here, and Herbert Le Maries. AfFeton, or AfFton, now the seat of a worshipful family of Stukely. It was sometime a parish of itself, and now it stands between the two Wor- lingtons, east and west. It gave name to a great progeny, whereof Tho- mas de AiFton was sheriff, 44th Edward III. Agnes, the heir of the house, brought it with a fair inheritance to Stukely. This gentleman married Halse and Coades : his father, Munk : his grandfather, St. Leger. Westcot : wherein hved a tribe of the name ; as also Northcot : now with the rest belonging to Stukely. Of this family was Thomas Stukely, called commonly the lusty Stukely ; whose spirit was of so high a strain that it villified subjection (though in the highest and chiefest degree,) as contemptible, aiming (as high as the moon,) at no less than sovereignty. This man, though a younger brother, yet by rich matches got so good an estate as might have qualified a mode- rate mind to have lived bountifully and in great esteem, equal to the chief of his house, which were of knightly rank ; but his profluous prodigality soon wasted it ; yet then, not anyway dejected in mind, he projected to people Florida, and there in those remote countries to play rex : having this proverb often in his discourse, " I had rather be king of a mole-hill than subject to a mountain:" verifying Aristotle's observation, — "cupidita- tis natura infinita;" — man's desire is of infinite nature: and as Seneca saith, " Avidis, avidis natura parum est." To such as are ambitious and so greedy, All nature's self doth seem to be too needy. And it was a common report, spoken by divers worthy credit, that Queen Ehzabeth, in the height of his intended project, demanded him pleasantly whether he would remember her w^hen he was settled in his kingdom.'' yes, saith he, and write unto you also. "And what style wilt thou use?" said her majesty. He presently answered, " To my loving sister, as one prince writes to another." But as the gi-eat spirits of Ajax and Chares cast them suddenly into a madness; so he, unable, either by delays or disabilities, to proceed to the attainment of his pui-pose, (as appeareth by a ditty made by him, or of him, wliich saith, — 272 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [ BoOK IV. " Have over the waters to Florida, In Plymouth town, in a thread-bare gown, Farewell good London now ; And money never a deal : Through long delays on land and seas, Hay! trixi trim ! go trixi trim ! I'm brought, I cannot tell how. And will not a wallet do well ?") he ran a far more dangerous course and disloyal ; for passing to Rome he became the pope's pensioner, who employing him with a band of some 300 or 400 Italians to assist certain rebels in Ireland, and to fill the sails of his ambition with a full wind of his desire, intitled him a marquess, a mighty and powerful provocation to such a nature, to vindicate any enterprise whatsoever : and bankrupt as well of faith as wealth, he proceeded. But God not approving his cause, dashed it ; yet gave him the fortune to die honourably : for he chanced to put into Lisbon at the very instant that Don Sebastian, King of Portugal, was preparing his voyage for Barbar}', (to as- sist Mules Mahomet Xarifa, expelled his country by his uncle, Muly Abdel- melech Maluco, 1578,) whose fleet then was at that place; and -ndthout any great difficulty he was persuaded by royal promises to serve, (or rather, according to his own speech and letters,) to assist the king in this action : wherein he failed nothing to perform the part both of a skilful leader and valiant soldier ; and, as it was vulgarly reported, had the council of war approved, and the king followed his advice, and forborne the fight for that day, the victoiy had been clearly his : but otherwise persuaded by his un • experienced nobles, young and full of courage, who also taxed Stukely of cowardice for giving procrastinating counsel; to whom he replied, "Out of your unexperience and ignorance in the stratagems of war you deem me a coward ; yet this advice would prove safe and victorious, and your great haste be your overthrow, yet proceed, and when you come to action, you will look after me, and shall apparently see that Englishmen are no cow- ards." AU which he verified in his proceedings, and died nobly. And so Alcacarquibar, called commonly Alcazar, was made famous 4th August, 1578, for three kings in re and one in spe there slain that day. Shall we consider this man's actions, and inform ourselves by his exam- ple ? Surely much sufficiency and many good parts were in this man ; yet by the serious view of his proceedings is expressed unto us, that though many in the understanding of the world are accounted valiant, wise, learn- ed, and worthily minded, yet if their projects proceed (not from a good re- ligious honest purpose aiming at virtue, but) from the windy swollen bub- Chap. VIII.] view of Devonshire. 273 bles of a proud heart, let them be assured such will be like untimely fruit, carrying only with them for a moment a short wonder and sudden flash : for there is a long distance and difference between worldly plausible eflPects, and where the finger of God works ; as permanency in the last, and nothing but apparition in the other, no sooner seen but dissolved, without any me- mory that such one was. We pass with our river to Cheldon, alias Celedon, which Herbert de Maries, and now Stukely holds. Estcheldon, a hamlet therein. South- combe, May, and now ChafFe possesseth. And Chawley, or Chalveley, Baldwin, the Baron of Okehampton, had it, and Courtenay, Bilchester, and Langford ; now Stukely : where we may perceive by the ruins, that a castle was there sometime seated, but by whom or in what age we find nothing. CHAPTER VIII. Of Chulmleigh, and the Countess of Devon saving seven little Children that were carrying to be drowned. And now we are happily come, being Friday, to the market at Chulm- leigh, briefly Chymley, where we may chance to meet good company. This was the land of Bomeleston, and after the Earl of Richmond had the manor and the Earl of Devon the borough. Of one of their noble ladies (which should be the Countess of Devon, for never can I find an Earl of Richmond inhabiting here,) is left unto us this tale, (commonly spoken and constantly beheved,) — a poor labouring man, inhabiting this town, had many children, and thinking himself over-burdened by such a multiplied blessing of God in that kind, intended, by a pohtic natural course, to avoid all such future charge, and therefore absented himself from his wife and home seven years ; at the end whereof he returned, and accompanying with his wife as formerly, she (see the vanity of man's natural wisdom to prevent God's purpose,) conceived, and in due course of time was well delivered of a very fruitful birth, viz, seven sons; which being so secretly kept as but known 274 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK IV. to himself and his wife, he, despau-Jng of Divine Providence (wliich never deceiveth them that depend thereon, but giveth meat to every mouth and filleth with his blessing every hving thing,) resolveth to let them swim in our river, and to that purpose puts them all into a large basket and takes his way towards the river. And here again, — aspice opera Dei et admirare, he is here prevented again. The countess having been some where abroad to take the air, or doing rather some pious work, meets him with his basket, and by some, no doubt, Divine Inspiration, demands what he carried in his basket. The silly man, stricken dead well near with that question, answered they were whelps. " Let me see them," quoth the lady. " They are pup- pies," replied he again, " not worth the rearing." " I will see," quoth the good countess ; and the leather he was to show them, the more earnest was she to see them : which he percei\ang, fell on his knees and discovered his purpose, with all former circumstances : which understood, she hasteth home with them, provides nurses and all things else necessar}'. They all hve, are bred in learning, and being come to man's estate gives each a prebend in this parish. Which I think are vanished not to be seen, but the seven crosses near Tiverton, set up by this occasion, keeps it yet in memory, unless they are appropriated to the free-school there erected. The fruitful birth with the whole history, will, perchance, be thought strange; yet if you will be pleased to hear the history of the beginning of the noble race of Welfes, (much alike to this, but far stranger,) registered by Camerarius, counsellor to the free state of Noremberg, you wiU make no wonder of it. — " Irmentrudes, (saith he,) wife of Isenbard, Earl of Al- torfe, accused a woman of adultery for bringing forth three children at a birth ; adding withall that she was worthy to be sown in a sack and thrown into the sea, and urged it very earnestly. It chanced in the year following that she herself conceived, and in the absence of her husband was delivered of twelve male children at one birth, (though very little.) But she fearing the imputation and scandal she had formerly laid on the poor woman, and the law of like for like, caused her most trusty woman to make choice of one to be tendered to the father, and to drown all the residue in a neigh- bouring river. It fell out that the Earl Isenbard returning home met this woman, demanding her whither she went with her pail ? who answered, 'to drown a few baggage whelps in the river.' The earl would see them ; and notwithstanding the woman's resistance did so, and discovering the Chap. VIIL] view of devonshike. 275 children, pressed her to tell the matter, which she also did ; and he caused them all to be secretly nursed; and grown great, were brought home unto him, which he placed in an open hall with the son whom his wife had brought up, and soon known to be brethren by their likelihood in every respect. The countess confessed the whole matter, (moved with the sting of conscience,) and was forgiven. In remembrance whereof the illustrious race of the Welfes (whelps,) got that name, and ever since hath kept it." Mary, the Countess of Henneberg, daughter of Florent, Earl of Holland, and of Maud his wife, daughter of the Duke of Brabant, 1314, was dehver- ed, at one birth, (upon the like occasion,) of 365 children. This history is verified by chronicle and epitaph in the monastery of Lodun, by the Hague in Holland ; which being much spoken of I will forbear to exemplify, lest I be thought as fruitful of tales as these women of children. The barton of Coleton was sometime the land of Roger Cole, by the heir of which house it came to Beny of Berry, in Lapford. He married Stuke- ly: his father, Mountjoy: and his son, Arscott. At Cadibir, alias Cadbury, was seated a family of the name; now Mol- ford ; if not divided among the coheirs. In this borough was also some- time an ancient family of Borage; of which denomination is a great wood near this place. Now I thought I might have left Chulmleigh, but 1 am staid at Stone- Castle. Asserius speaking of the overthrow of Hubba the Dane, who had so horribly vexed our country, says it was at Kenwith- Castle, and the place after was called Hubble- Stow, or Hubbes- Stone. We shall seek this place at Henna, or Hennaborow, in Northam, and at Instow; and what we shall find there we wiU impart to you. Some would have Hubble- Stone to be this castle, (now by the ruins a heap of stones,) for site, strong on every side but east ; so was this : and as it hath lost its strength and beauty, so it hath lost (if it be the same,) the two first syllables of its name. 276 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK IV. CHAPTER IX. Of Rings- Ash, with the original and course of the River Mole. We are at length gotten free of this good borough, and are to visit Rings- Ash, or Esse-Regny, compounded of two names, Esse the ancient possessor, and Regny succeeded by one of the coheirs : they were two great families ; and the last the greater in birth, and estate by the first. After it came to Stukely, then Mallet, and now Akeland. This parish having three tithings, had therewith three chapels of ease. The first came by the heir of Sir William Broughton to Howard, and from him to Paulet of Winchester. Hanckford was possessed by WilUam of the same denomination ; and from him to PoUard and Harris. Ryddlecombe, Gosceline de Ryddlecomb held at the conquest ; afterwards Sir Richard de Lumine, then Beaumont ; next Basset, and after Carew. I find there was here a fair anciently, but we see none here now. Mr. Doctor Anthony Short will inform us what there is in the church, and save us the labour to go so far. There is only one escutcheon of arms, — per fess indented arg. and gul., which they say was the coat of Si- mon Silvester, the Saxon, at the conquest. Here you may expect the sight of a combat ; for here comes Mole, which seeing the sun first in Exmoor, so having one parent with Exe, hopeth of equal fortune with his brother, to grow large and famous, and to suppress the name and dignity of all rivers he meets with ; and so he does for a while, and is now come to encounter Taw, and strive for superiority. They are mere strangers one to the other, as coming out of divers chmates ; our river out of the south, and this from the north, at least miles distant. Mole is much encouraged after he has passed Twitchin (a chapel of ease,) to North-Molton, to whom he gives name ; and was sometime taken for a hundred of itself; now it is under his younger brother, South-Molton, who hath gotten the better state and is incorporated. In this parish, written anciently North-Molton, was the seat of the Lord St. Maure, whose heirs entitled it to the Lord Zouch and Bampfield ; now, by purchase, all Bamp- field's. Here is also the lineage of Parker, who married Seymour : his father, the heir of Mayhow : his grandfather, Smith. Chap. IX,] view op Devonshire. 277 In the church I found a few armories of what there had sometimes been. — Gul. ten bezants 4. 3. 2. 1. — Zouch. Arg. two chevrons a file of three azure. — St. Maur. Gul. a sword and key in saltire, arg. cross and pomel or. — Church OF ExETEE impaled with Bishop Oldam's, sab. a chev. or between three owls arg. on a chief of the 2nd, three roses gul. Azure semi-fleur-de-lis, a lion ramp, arg. — Holland. Vert a cross arg. in the 1st the image of the blessed Virgin with her Son in her arms. — King Arthur. Or on a bend gul. three mullets arg. — Bampfield, with his 28 quarterings. Gul. on a chev. or, three eaglets dis- played sab.—— Gul. three boars' heads couped in bend or. Azure three eaglets displayed in bend between two cotizes arg. and six crosses crossed of the 2nd. South-Molton hath gotten the preeminence of his elder brother, is a bo- rough and hath a Saturday's market, and two fairs, the Saturday after Bar- nabas'-day and the Saturday after the Feast of the Assumption of the blessed Virgin. It is caput hundredi, which contains — parishes. For this I find WiUihelmus filius Martini tenet villam de South-Molton (quae est caput hundredi) de Gilberto de Clare, per serjentiam inveniendi unum ho- minem cum arcu et tribus sagittis quando predictus Gilbertus fugare volu- erit in Gower, &c. It is incorporated; their charter bears date 32nd Elizabeth, to a mayor and justice, and two capital burgesses and aldermen; the whole number besides the mayor is eighteen. As the burgesses bought the borough, so Hatch bought the hundred : his seat is at Aller; where one of that name had ha- bitation and denomination, Sir John Aller de Aller, knight, tempore Edward I., by whose heir it came to Hatch; of which name there is also a fair demes- ne in the parish also; which by the heir of Mordack de la Hatch and Wolley came to Mallet, and so to Acland. Of this name Eustace de la Hatch (in the time of Edward I.) was summoned among the peers to a parliament. This married Mallet : his father, Chichester : his grandfather, . Here is Clotworthy of Clotworthy, with whom we have spoken elsewhere. Kingsland, the seat of Horwood, who came from a seat of that name in Somersetshire. Upon the death of the heir male it came, by descent, to Stephens. High-bray, divided between Molford and Le Squier, now Squire, who lives at the town-house. Black- Pool, Sir Matthew Fitz John, or one of his predecessors, at least Fitz John held it. He was sheriff of this shire 21st Edward I., and in the 25th year called to the parliament. After him, Walter Gambon ; now di- 2n 278 VIEW OF DEVONSHIRE. [BoOK IV. vided among divers. Frencheston Tything, given, by the Courtenays of Molland, to a younger son of the house. East Bray, the land of Fillegh and Fortescue. Let us visit the fau- church, whose many armories I do for- get ; but the epitaphs are these : — On the monument of Arthur Hatch, esquire, — " Earth and heaven did contend Though public place he still withstood. For their title to one friend ; Yet sure he was a public good ; God then seeing their debate, None ever knew him but, what I Came 'twixt them to arbitrate ; Confess, affirm with weeping eye. And to the earth his body gave, Yet Death not moved beneath this hearse His soul to heaven Christ's bliss to have. Laid the subject of my verse." The next is on Gabriel Webber, second mayor of the town : — " Under this floor, a putrid bone, I was the same that thou anon, Doth Gabriel Webber lie; Thou art the same that I. Secundus hujus oppidi consulatum accepit, primus integrum gessit. To T8