THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 GIFT OF 
 Martha Green 
 
 
The 
 
 HANDY 
 COOK BOOK 
 
 With a Familiar Talk on Cookery 
 
 by 
 
 MARION HARLAND 
 
 Illustrated 
 
 C. S. HAMMOND & CO. 
 NEW YORK 
 
PREFATORY AND FAMILIAR TALK 
 
 BY MARION HARLAND. 
 
 PRACTICALLY it is impossible to overrate the value of the 
 stomach to the human body. 
 
 Educate it aright and treat it well, and it is a stronghold 
 of reserved and active forces for good. Abuse or neglect it, 
 and you convert it into an enemy who will harass every 
 moment of your life. 
 
 JEsop told this story two thousand five hundred years ago, 
 albeit not accurate in the use of anatomical terms. If I had 
 to repeat the tale I should reverse the order of actors and 
 show what would come to pass were the Stomach in hot 
 mutiny against the Members. 
 
 It is in the power of this central force to withhold iron 
 and coloring matter from the blood, phosphates and marrow 
 from the bones, oils from the flesh, and gray matter from 
 the brain. All this and more it does not scruple to do 
 when irritated, ill-fed, or overworked. 
 
 It does not require a very lively imagination to picture 
 this all-important organ as a citadel built to guard the hid 
 treasures of life, usefulness, and happiness. Above the 
 gateway as we may style the diaphragm is some such in- 
 scription as was cut rudely upon the muzzle of " Queen 
 Elizabeth's Pocket Piece," the cannon mounted upon the 
 walls of Dover Castle and frowning across the English 
 Channel at the French coast, fifteen miles away: 
 
 " Aim me right and keep me clean 
 I'll carry a ball to Calais Green." 
 
 It follows, from even an imperfect statement of the many 
 offices performed by this much misunderstood factor in the 
 
 025 ' K 
 
PREFATORY AND FAMILIAR TALK. 
 
 sum of human welfare, that it should be consulted 3utifully 
 by the possessor and treated with respectful consideration 
 at all times. 
 
 And since food to carry out the figure of the " Pocket 
 Piece " is the ammunition without which the citadel could 
 not be defended, it follows yet more naturally, that supplies, 
 sufficient as to quantity and of the best quality, should be 
 provided for the use of the valiant garrison that holds the 
 fort. 
 
 If the stomach be the fortified castle of the body the 
 kitchen is the head and center of the home. If there be but 
 one room in the dwelling that one room is the kitchen. The 
 family may sleep and sit and eat on the floor. Beds, stools, 
 and tables are luxuries. 'But one piece of furniture is a 
 necessity. That is the range, or stove, or open fireplace, or 
 brazier, or fire of sticks, or moss, in the middle of the wig- 
 wam, where food is prepared for the stomach. 
 
 The domestic staff of the household may be wanting in 
 chambermaid, butler, seamstress, and laundress. A cook of 
 some sort is a must-be. 
 
 These are not empty or didactic sayings, but a line of 
 argument which he who runs, or she who swings away the 
 hours in that nest of idle ease, the American rocker, may 
 read; which every woman should ponder and lay up in her 
 heart. 
 
 I write it down, without fear of contradiction, that there 
 is more excellent raw food-material spoiled in the United 
 States than in any other country marked upon geographical 
 charts as " enlightened." It is a waste of words to add that 
 the American dyspepsia is as familiarly known to the scien- 
 tific man of medicine as Asiatic cholera. From cradle to 
 deathbed, three-fourths of our population suffer from the 
 slow poison of their daily food. 
 
 The most hopeless part of the problem is that a mighty 
 majority of the unfortunates do not suspect that they are 
 poisoned. In other words, cooks, and those who consume 
 
PREFATORY AND FAMILIAR TALK. 
 
 what is prepared by the cooks, do not know good foo'd from 
 bad. 
 
 Greasy soups, " fried things," reeking within and with- 
 out with fat; heavy, hot breads; badly cooked vegetables; 
 leathery or oily pastry, are swallowed (and regretted) in 
 crass ignorance that is not bliss, but sin and misery. j| 
 
 The " Spectator " of Addison and Steele suggested in a 
 serio-comic paper that no girl should be allowed to marry 
 who could not show a complete assortment of household 
 and body linen made up by herself in proof of her ability 
 to care for her household. 
 
 In all seriousness I assert that, were I a legislator, I should 
 introduce, and force forward, a bill to the effect that no 
 woman should be married until she had learned practical 
 cookery in all its branches. She should know how to mar- 
 ket judiciously, what articles of food are nutritious, and 
 what are not. She should be so well versed in the chemistry 
 of cookery and the structure and needs of the human system 
 as to understand how to adapt nourishment to the various 
 constitutions of those for whom she caters. She should 
 master the small economies that make the Frenchwoman 
 mistress of the art of furnishing her table daintily at the 
 lowest cost. 
 
 The old bachelor who married his maid-of-all-work be- 
 cause he could not afford to keep both cook and wife, and 
 could not do without a cook, was not such a simpleton 
 after all. Man needs aliment that will give him staying- 
 power in the day of battle, which is every day in this, our 
 land of push and competition. The woman who equips 
 him for the fray by sending him forth to his daily labor and 
 strife with a stomach comfortably lined with the sort of food 
 that, as -old-fashioned folk say, " will stick to his ribs," is a 
 genuine helpmeet. 
 
 Sympathy and sentiment are good as far as they go, but 
 they do not go nearly all the way. A faint stomach makes 
 a faint heart. Well-chosen, well-cooked, and palatable 
 
PREFATORY AND FAMILIAR TALK. 
 
 meals, eaten leisurely and in gladness and singleness of 
 heart, are a bank from which one draws an assured income 
 of daily strength for daily needs. 
 
 Our housewife may be so well off that she can hire a suc- 
 cession of cooks all her days. If she have no practical 
 knowledge of their craft she is like a sailing-master who de- 
 pends upon first and second mate for his success in naviga- 
 tion. She is at the mercy of such winds and tides as are 
 represented by the moods and tenses of a guild whose tem- 
 pers are notoriously uncertain. It is not enough for her to 
 order three meals a day. She must know how each dish is 
 to be prepared, what is amiss should the cookery be un- 
 satisfactory, and how to right the wrong. 
 
 Her husband could not keep for one month the post of 
 superintendent of workmen who know their business better 
 than he. The woman who is her own cook, or could be 
 should need arise, has the whip-hand from the outset of her 
 housewifely career. Nothing else so commands and retains 
 the respect of the servant as the consciousness that her em- 
 ployer could do the hireling's work better than she herself 
 can, if she were obliged to undertake it. 
 
 If I speak in forceful earnest in commending the study 
 and the practice of the culinary art to every sensible woman, 
 it is because many years of experience and observation have 
 convinced me that no other accomplishment is so essential 
 to the health and happiness of husband and children, or of 
 whomsoever the housemother may be in charge of, tempo- 
 rarily or permanently. 
 
 If our national kitchen is to be redeemed from deserved 
 reproach it will be, not by cooking-school lectures or writ- 
 ten instructions, but by the intelligent, sustained efforts of 
 the woman who is her own cook. 
 
 MARION HARLAND. 
 
 SUNNYBANK, September, 1900. 
 
Table of Contents 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY, 15 
 
 1. THE ART OF COOKING, i'7 
 
 2. SOUPS, SOUP STOCK, ETC 35 
 
 3. FISH, OYSTERS, ETC 46 
 
 4. POULTRY AND GAME 61 
 
 5. MEATS, 70 
 
 i. Beef, 70 
 
 ii. Veal, 76 
 
 iii. Mutton and Lamb, 82 
 
 iv. Pork, 85 
 
 6. VEGETABLES, 91 
 
 7. SALADS AND SAUCES, 102 
 
 8. CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS, in 
 
 9. EGGS, . 117 
 
 10. BREAD, BISCUIT, HOT CAKES, ETC., 126 
 
 i. Bread, 126 
 
 ii. Toast, 131 
 
 iii. Fancy Breads, 132 
 
 iv. Rolls, .>.... 134 
 
 v. Biscuit, Rusk, and Buns, 136 
 
 vi. Muffins and Waffles, 140 
 
 vii. Griddle Cakes 142 
 
 viii. Yeast and Yeast Cakes 145 
 
 11. PASTRY AND PUDDINGS, 148 
 
 12. CREAMS, JELLIES, AND LIGHT DESSERTS, 166 
 
 13. CAKES AND CAKE BAKING, 179 
 
 14. FRESH FRUITS AND NUTS, 201 
 
 15. JELLIES, JAMS AND PRESERVES, 207 
 
 16. CANNED FRUITS AND VEGETABLES, 219 
 
 17. PICKLES AND CATSUPS, 224 
 
 18. BEVERAGES, 234 
 
 19. CANDIES, 242 
 
 20. INVALID DIET, ;.......>... 248 
 
 GENERAL HINTS, , ... 254 
 
DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 rpHERE is a beautiful legend that tells how Elizabeth oJ 
 1 1 Hungary, having been forbidden by her lord to carry 
 food to the poor, was met by him one day outside the 
 castle walls as she was bearing a lapful of meat and bread 
 to her pensioners. Louis demanding sternly what she car- 
 ried in her robe, she was obliged to show him the forbidden 
 burden. " Whereupon," says the chronicler, " the food was 
 miraculously changed, for his eyes, to a lapful of roses, 
 red and white, and his mind disabused of suspicion, he gra- 
 ciously bade her pass on withersoever she would." 
 
 It would be well for some husbands if " their eyes were 
 holden " in such a way that food served them would seem 
 other and better than it really is. But the sense of taste is 
 a rebellious member especially in the men. It will cry out 
 against the best appearing dish, if its flavor is not of the 
 best. There is but one way to sure success. The house- 
 wife herself must be the angel who casts the spell about the 
 humble board and the lowly fare, and invests them with 
 forms and odors of irresistible attractiveness. This is the 
 true poetry of Domestic Cookery; and blessed is the 
 home where one presides who knows this art, and makes 
 each meal a feast, and every guest a glad participant. 
 
16, DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 But things do not always take so happy a form. For 
 instance : there was recently a brutal murder in Troy, N. Y., 
 and a paper, reporting the case, clumsily said : " A poor 
 woman was killed yesterday in her own home, while cooking 
 her husband's breakfast in a shocking manner." Quoting 
 this statement, a contemporary remarked : " There are 
 many women who cook their husbands' breakfasts in a 
 shocking manner, but it is seldom that justice overtakes 
 them so summarily." The subject is a serious one to joke 
 over, but the turn given by the commenting paper is bright 
 and suggestive. 
 
 The fact is, that by skillful manipulation the plainest fare 
 may be transformed into dishes fit for kings, while by igno- 
 rance and inattention the best viands may be rendered unfit 
 for human food. Which turn should housewives attempt to 
 give their own culinary affairs? There can be but one 
 reply. But, be it remembered, that freaks of favoring for- 
 tune, such as came to Elizabeth, come only to those who 
 are zealously pursuing the line of helpful duty. There is 
 no royal road to success as a housekeeper or a cook. You 
 must " work your passage," but the way will be smoothed 
 by careful study of pages such as follow, provided the study 
 take shape in wise action. 
 
 Remember, too, that the ministry of Domestic Cookery 
 is by no means an unimportant one. It is worthy of the 
 best attention of any housewife. 
 
 " The stomach," says an eminent medical authority, " is 
 the mainspring of our system ; if it be not sufficiently wound 
 up to warm and support the circulation, the whole business 
 of life will, in proportion, be ineffectually performed ; we can 
 neither think with precision, walk with vigor, sit down with 
 comfort, nor sleep with tranquility. There would be no 
 difficulty in proving that it influences (much more than 
 people imagine) all our actions." Dyspepsia is a fearful foe 
 to the human race. 
 
I THE ART OF COOKING. 
 
 'T^HERE is a science and there is an art of cooking. The 
 
 science tells what should be done and why ; the art takes 
 
 hold and does the thing, without, in most cases, knowing 
 
 any reason why certain methods produce certain results. 
 
 The one is theoretical, the other practical ; the one deals 
 
 with principles, the other with performances. 
 
 The science of cookery proceeds on the basis that man 
 needs certain elements of repair and growth for the various 
 tissues of his body, that these elements exist in nature in 
 various forms, and that the mission of the cook is so to 
 prepare these suitable substances that man may receive 
 them in their most enjoyable and assimilable forms, and thus 
 have his waste repaired and his growth provided for. This 
 basis is solid. On it the whole culinary system is founded. 
 But, from the merely utilitarian idea of repairing waste and 
 supplying force, cookery rises to the supreme height of 
 exquisitely delighting the taste while doing its most impor- 
 tant work of feeding the body. Indeed, the art of cooking 
 well, and of serving well-cooked victuals well, is " a fine art " 
 in the best sense of the term. There are artistes in 
 this line. Meals may be served artistically. They may 
 become a delight to the most refined natures and a real 
 benefaction to both body and soul. 
 
 The great aim of all cooking is to retain all the valuable 
 elements of the food, and to put them into such forms as 
 shall awake desire, stimulate digestion, and secure to the 
 eater, in the readiest and most pleasing way, all the nutriment 
 these viands afford. For instance, in cooking meats it is 
 desirable to retain all the natural juices. To this end, when 
 meat is to be boiled it should be plunged into hot water, 
 which at once renders the outer part measurably impenetraf 
 a 17 
 
18 EVERY WOMAtf HER OWN COOK. 
 
 ble, ana so confines the juices. On the other hand, if the 
 juices are to be drawn out for the production of soup, it 
 must be placed in cold water, and gradually warmed and 
 slowly boiled, so as to allow the exudation of the juices. 
 On the same principle, broiling and roasting, by quickly clos- 
 ing the surface of the meat, retain the juices as well as the 
 odors, and make the meat both juicy and savory. The re- 
 tention of the fatty substances renders such preparations 
 somewhat less digestible, however, than boiled food or lean 
 meat. 
 
 High art in cookeiy, as elsewhere, demands high rates ol 
 expenditure. Instructions on that grade alone would not 
 meet the want of American homes. But high aims in this 
 department are equally commendable with high aims else- 
 where. So important a factor in domestic economy as cook* 
 ing cannot be ignored and should not be treated lightly. 
 Good food, well cooked and well served, goes far to make 
 home happy and its inmates healthy. 
 
 The chemical aspect of food and cooking may be left to 
 the chemist and the physiologist. They will perfect the 
 scientific aspects of the case. But the art of cooking, which 
 teaches just how and when to do the right things, is for us 
 to learn and to practice day by day. Such is the relation of 
 stomach and brain on the one side, and of stomach and 
 cook on the other side, that the cook becomes the sov- 
 ereign, to whom many a brain mightier than his own 
 bows in servile allegiance. 
 
 What cookery was practiced in the garden of Eden his- 
 tory does not tell. Vegetarians insist that permission to 
 eat animal food was not given until after the flood (Genesis 
 xi, 3, 4), when, by indulgence, man's appetites had become 
 abnormal. If vegetable food only were used in Eden, and 
 that mainly of the nature of fruits, but little cooking was 
 needed, and the simplest forms would suffice amply. Ancient 
 Writers say that cooking came into use immediately on the 
 
TffE AKT OF COOKING. 19 
 
 discovery of fire, whenever that was, and that its introduc- 
 tion was in imitation of the natural processes of mastication 
 and digestion. 
 
 The first reference of the Bible to cooked food is to "a mor- 
 sel of bread" (Genesis xviii, 5). Sarah, in this instance, made 
 ready " three measures of fine meal," which she kneaded, 
 and of which she made cakes " upon the hearth." These 
 were, doubtless, the simplest form of unleavened cakes. 
 
 UNLEAVENED BREAD, ANCIENT AND MODERN FORMS. 
 
 flattened thin and baked upon a hot stone. A tender calf 
 was hastily dressed on this occasion also, but whether by 
 boiling or stewing, by roasting on a hot stone or by broil- 
 ing over the fire on the point of a stick, is not known. Cer- 
 tainly, the whole dressing required but little time and was 
 not very elaborate. For these same guests Lot baked un- 
 leavened bread, and, as the record is, " he made them a 
 feast," quite hurried and simple, no doubt. 
 
 When Abraham's servant, searching for a wife for Isaac, 
 reached her father's house, " they did eat and drink," un- 
 questionably in a festive way. Isaac was so fond of veni- 
 son that he became unduly partial to his son Esau, who 
 excelled as a hunter in capturing game for this dish. The 
 preparation of the meat was in some elaborate style, which 
 Isaac denominated " savory meat," and the eating of it so 
 pleased him that he spoke of it as the meat " that I love," 
 and asked it " that I may eat, and that my soul may blew 
 
20 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 thee before I die." Irreverent critics may say this was man* 
 like, but reverent ones will pronounce it quite human, and 
 all may conclude that cookery was taking attractive shapes 
 in that early day. So Esau thought, undoubtedly, upon see- 
 ing his brother Jacob with a pottage of red lentiles. He was 
 willing to sell out his birthright, with all its high preroga- 
 tives, that he might eat of this tempting dish. All these in* 
 cidents from the book of Genesis indicate that punctuality 
 at the table and systematic forethought for its proper service 
 were undeveloped arts at that time. Many later Biblical 
 references indicate a higher state of culture in these respects, 
 sumptuous fare and great feasts being matters of frequent 
 reference. In the ceremonial law many directions were given 
 concerning the killing and the cooking of animal food. 
 
 Ovens are often mentioned in the Bible. In the cities and 
 villages they were located generally in the establishments 
 of bakers (Hosea vii, 4), or in large private establishments. 
 Portable ovens were used by many who lived in a nomadic 
 way. The portable oven was a large earthen jar, widening 
 at the bottom, and having a side opening there by which to 
 extract the ashes and to insert the bread 
 or meat. These are referred to as the 
 possession of every family, in Exodus 
 viii, 3 ; though in time of destitution, or 
 scarcity of fuel, one oven answered for 
 many families, as Leviticus xxvi, 26, 
 shows. These ovens could be hastily 
 heated by a quick fire of twigs, grasses, 
 etc., whi^h fuel suggested the reference 
 ANCIENT V |GYPTIAN in Matthew vi, 30, to grass, which to-day 
 is in the field and to-morrow is cast into 
 the oven. Loaves or meat were placed inside, and thin 
 cakes upon the outside of these ovens. 
 
 The remote East, the land of spices, was the first to 
 develop cookery in its higher ranges. Carefully wrought 
 
THE ART OF 1 COOKING. 21 
 
 and highly seasoned dishes were first prepared there. Many 
 curious notions are recorded of the various nations in re- 
 spect to food and cooking. The universal custom in Oriental 
 lands is to cook meat as soon as killed. It never becomes 
 cold, as with us. Goose is a great favorite with the Egyp- 
 tians. Plutarch says only one class of this nation would 
 eat mutton, and at Thebes it was wholly prohibited. Pud- 
 dings made from the blood of slaughtered animals were 
 favored by Egyptians but hated by Moslems. Egyptians 
 never ate the head of any animal. Pastry among them was 
 worked into the shapes of animals, and was always sprinkled 
 with caraway and anise. 
 
 The Greeks esteemed cookery so highly, that royal per- 
 sonages took pride in preparing their own meals. Homer's 
 poems contain many illustrations of such service. 
 Achilles once personally served up a great feast, its special 
 feature being that smaller meats were garnished with 
 entrails of oxen. It was common at great feasts of the 
 Greeks to dedicate certain dishes to certain gods, and then 
 to eat them in honor of those gods. 
 
 In the time of Pericles a class of professional cooks had 
 come into prominence who boasted that they could serve 
 up a whole pig, boiled on one side, roasted on the other, 
 stuffed with cooked birds, eggs, and other delicacies, and 
 yet the whole so neatly done that it could not be discovered 
 where the animal had been opened. Invention was then 
 taxed to invent a new cake, or a new sauce, and he who did 
 it was deemed worthy of high honor. One Greek distin- 
 guished himself by devising a new method of curing hams , 
 another devised a cake which took his name and made him 
 famous. In Athenian dishes, assafoetida was a popular 
 ingredient, as were rue and garlick. 
 
 To compound one famous dish, certain uninviting parts of 
 sows, asses, hawks, seals, porpoises, star-fish, etc., were 
 used. One visitor to Greece, having eaten a celebrated 
 
22 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 " black broth," said he had learned why the Spartans were 
 in battle so fearless of death, as the pains of death were 
 preferable to existence on such abominable food. A Greek 
 poet, Archistratus, traveled the world over to study the 
 gastronomic art, and then wrote a poem, " Gastrology," 
 which became the standard among Greek epicures. Greek 
 cooks took special pride in so flavoring and disguising com- 
 mon fish and meat, that epicures even would be deceived by 
 their preparations. 
 
 Roman cooking surpassed the Grecian in the more solid 
 dishes, until the decline of the Empire began, when Roman 
 epicures and gluttons came to the front and soon surpassed 
 the world. Fishes, birds, and wines were their chief delica- 
 cies, and to secure those of rarest quality the known world 
 was laid under contribution. There is record of a single 
 feast at which were served peacocks from Samos, chickens 
 from Phrygia, kids from Melos, cranes from ^Etolia, tunny 
 fishes from Chalcedon, pikes from Pessinus, oysters from 
 Tarentum, mussels from Chios, dates from Egypt, and inci- 
 dentals from as many more points. Snails were fattened 
 for table uses till their shells would contain a quart ; fishes 
 and birds were fed on the choicest dainties to prepare them 
 for human food, while even hogs were fattened on whey 
 and dates. 
 
 Lucullus was in the habit of spending fifty thousand 
 denarii (about eight thousand dollars) on each of his sump- 
 tuous feasts. Galba's daily breakfasts were each of sufficient 
 cost to feed a hundred families. Vitellius made a single 
 dish of pheasants' brains, peacocks' brains, nightingales' 
 tongues, and livers of the rarest fishes. Its cost was one 
 thousand sesterces (about forty thousand dollars). On 
 another occasion two thousand choice fishes and seven 
 thousand rare birds were served by him. It is said his 
 kitchen expenses for four months amounted to twenty-five 
 million dollars. 
 
THE ART OF COOKING. Q& 
 
 Heliogabalus had a favorite dish for his own suppers 
 made from the brains of six hundred thrushes. Pork was 
 the choice Roman dish at a later day. It was often served 
 in the famous style already referred to, being half baked, 
 
 ANCIENT ROMAN COOKING UTENSILS. 
 
 i. Sugar, or Vegetable Boiler. 2. Frying Pan. 3. Measuring Urn.- 4. Boiler, OB 
 
 Tripod. 
 
 half boiled, and stuffed with birds, eggs, etc. The process 
 of this preparation was long a profound and marvelous 
 secret. It was accomplished, however, by bleeding the 
 animal under the shoulder, removing the intestines by the 
 
24 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 throat, and refilling by the same passage. The upper side 
 was then baked while the lower lay imbedded in a thick 
 paste of barley meal mixed with wine and oil. The paste 
 was then removed and the lower side boiled in a shallow 
 saucepan. 
 
 ANCIENT ROMAN COOKING UTENSILS, 1 
 
 i. Measure for Grain. 2. Kitchen Boiler. 3. Fire Grate. 4. Pitcher, or Um, far 
 
 Fluids. 
 
 Cooking utensils were elaborately made for the homes of 
 the rich. The finest grades were made of bronze, and 
 usually they were plated with silver. Some articles were 
 of brass, others even of silver. Kitchens were royal apart- 
 ments then, many of them having marble floors and being 
 decorated with costly paintings. Even the aspirations of 
 
THE ART OF COOKING. 23 
 
 our modern " help " would have been gratified fully by the 
 kitchen appointments of those days. Schools of cookery, 
 under the most accomplished professional care, were nu- 
 merous at that time. 
 
 One of the most princely pieces of extravagance ever 
 brought out by good cooking was in the case of Antony. 
 When Cleopatra praised a repast he furnished, Antony at 
 once called the cook and presented him with a city. An- 
 other piece of extravagance was when Lucullus entertained 
 
 ANCIENT ROMAN COOKING UTENSILS. 
 
 t. Bowl. ^2. Soup Pot. 3. Grater. 4. Measure for Fluids. 5. Cook's Knife. 
 
 - 6. Hashing Knife. 
 
 Cicero and Pompey. They three partook of a little feast 
 which cost not less than five thousand dollars. Geta in- 
 sisted on as many courses at his state dinners as there were 
 letters in the alphabet, and each course was required to 
 contain every viand known, the name of which began with 
 that letter. Alexander the Great once entertained ten 
 thousand guests, all of whom were seated at the tables at 
 one time, and in silver chairs upholstered with purple. Pos- 
 sibly the most extensive " spread " ever made was by the 
 
 Karl pf Warwick when &s brother was installed Arch- 
 
26 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 bishop of York in 1479. The record of its appointments is 
 as follows : 300 quarters of wheat, 300 tuns of ale, 104 tuns 
 of wine, I pipe of spiced wine, 10 fat oxen, 6 wild bulls, 300 
 pigs, 1,004 sheep, 300 hogs, 3,000 calves, 300 capons, 100 
 peacocks, 200 cranes, 200 kids, 2,000 chickens, 4,000 pig- 
 eons, 4,000 rabbits, 4,000 ducks, 204 bitterns, 400 herons, 
 200 pheasants, 500 partridge, 5,000 woodcocks, 400 plovers, 
 100 curlews, 100 quails, 100,000 eggs, 200 roes, 4,000 roe- 
 bucks, 155 hot venison pasties and 4,000 of them cold, 
 1,000 dishes of jellies, 2,000 hot custards and 4,000 of them 
 cold, 400 tarts, 300 pikes, 300 bream, 8 seals, and 4 por- 
 poises. The Earl in person was steward; 1,000 servitors, 
 62 chief cooks, and 515 under cooks and scullions offi- 
 ciated on this monster occasion. 
 
 After the fifth century it is said that " cookery, like learn- 
 ing, retired into convents." For several centuries religious 
 houses alone were the abodes of good cooking. In the 
 tenth century the art reappeared among the wealthier citizens 
 of Italy. Discoveries of new countries and the increasing 
 activity of commerce continually enlarged the field for gas- 
 tronomic delights. Italy, the leader in fine cookery in those 
 days, began to send her methods and her cooks into France, 
 where they received a hearty welcome from Catharine de 
 Medici and her royal spouse. Under these fostering im- 
 pulses several cities became famous for specialties in food ; 
 Hamburg, for example, for hams, Strasburg for sausages, 
 Amsterdam for herrings, Ostend for oysters, Chartres for 
 pies, etc., etc. 
 
 The ancient Britons and Saxons knew none of the refine- 
 ments of the culinary art. Their meal was simple bruised 
 barley ; their meat, half-cooked game. The Danes did 
 more at drinking than at eating, at brewing than at baking. 
 The Normans, however, introduced the better styles of food 
 and the cook again loomed up grandly. So great was 
 the excess of these times that the friars of St Swithin's com* 
 
THE ART OF COOKING. 27 
 
 plained to King Henry II that three of their thirteen regu 
 iar dinner courses had been withheld from them by their 
 abbot. Cranmer ordered, in 1541, that archbishops should 
 be limited to six dishes of meat daily, bishops to five, and 
 lower orders of clergy to four, or three in certain cases. 
 The poultry to be used was also limited, and the fish. 
 
 After the Crusades the higher classes of England imitated 
 the luxurious methods they had learned abroad. Peacocks be- 
 came a favorite dish. They were usually served with the 
 tail feathers remaining and spread to their fullest extent. In 
 the reign of Elizabeth cooks reached the zenith of their 
 power, many classical scholars willingly espousing this pro- 
 fession. 
 
 The early inhabitants of France subsisted chiefly on roots 
 and acorns. After their subjugation by Caesar they quickly 
 took on the Roman methods, and later the Norman methods, 
 until in the fourteenth century they produced Taillevant, 
 the greatest cook of history. In the reign of Louis XII a 
 company was chartered to make sauces and another to cook 
 meats on the spit. These were the days when fancy cook- 
 ing ran toward the impossible. Eggs cooked on the spit, 
 butter fried, roasted, etc., were the surprising delicacies 
 produced by the masters of gastronomy. 
 
 In the days of Louis XIV cookery in France was at its 
 height of sumptuousness. A reaction in favor of modera- 
 tion then began to prevail. Cooks were out of employment. 
 Restaurants then appeared under their care, and they soon 
 found abundant patronage. Careme, of France, is con- 
 fessedly the greatest of modern French cooks. He has 
 exalted the science of cookery while he has nobly advanced 
 the art. 
 
 There are several national or provincial dishes which are 
 well known ; for example, the roast beef and plum pudding 
 of England ; the sauerkraut of Germany ; the salt beef of 
 Holland ; the fittau of Turkey (made of rice and mutton 
 
28 EVERY WOMAN- HER OWN COOK. 
 
 fat) ; the macaroni of Italy ; the potatoes of Ireland ; the 
 oat-meal of Scotland ; the pork and beans and the pumpkin 
 pie of New England. 
 
 Books on the science and the art of cookery are 
 numerous. The oldest dates from the last half of the four- 
 teenth century. It is from a Frenchman, Le Sage, who has 
 blended moral maxims and culinary recipes in a wonderful 
 manner. The next in order is from Taillevant, already 
 referred to, dated 1392. Scappi, chief cook to Pope Pius 
 V, published a valuable book on cookery in 1570. So have 
 they been multiplied as the years have rolled by, and one 
 who is not an expert in cookery cannot lay his defect at the 
 door of authors or publishers. 
 
 But books are not sufficient to elevate a people. There 
 must be instruction, by which the text-books may be ex- 
 pounded and their lessons be illustrated to the masses. The 
 art of cookery must be learned, as are the other arts. There 
 are those who say that domestic cooking should be learned 
 in the home that the mother should teach the daughters,, 
 and that skill and knowledge should thus be handed down 
 from generation to generation. This is a splendid theory ; 
 but if the mothers themselves are ignorant and unskillful, 
 what then can be hoped for from the daughters ? Then, too, 
 a fixed set of culinary traditions would be handed down in 
 each family by this method, and the children would follow 
 the ways of the parents, irrespective of better ways practiced 
 by their next-door neighbors. 
 
 In the face of these facts, it was not at all strange that 
 schools of cookery arose centuries ago ; but it is strange 
 that these schools were not extended in their scope, to in- 
 clude others than professional cooks. They aimed merely 
 to provide skilled help for the kitchens of royalty and 
 Wealth. This they did to perfection, but the common people 
 knew nothing of the methods whereby their plain fare might 
 be made more toothsome or more beneficial, It has re- 
 
THE ART OF COOKING. 29 
 
 mained for this later day, this utilitarian age, to establish 
 schools designed to furnish good, practical cooks for our 
 homes, and to develop them from our wives and our 
 daughters. 
 
 This " cooking-school " movement arose in England. 
 The working classes there were so sadly unskilled in 
 using provision, and provision was so enormously costly, 
 that the question necessarily arose, Is there no way where- 
 by these masses can use what little they have to better ad- 
 vantage ? How to make the most of what was in their 
 kitchens was the practical problem. Schools of domestic 
 economy then arose, under the patronage of benevolent per- 
 sons, to promote the practical solution of this difficulty. 
 
 The managers of the South Kensington Museum of Arts, 
 in West London, made the first organized movement in this 
 matter by establishing public lectures on the preparation of 
 food, with platform demonstrations of various culinary 
 operations. But the inadequacy of this course was soon evi- 
 dent. Exposition and illustration were good, but practice 
 was needed. Cookery is like music, in that the only way to 
 do it well is to do it well. Lectures on the capabilities of 
 the piano, though supplemented by brilliant illustration, 
 could never make musicians, and the course inaugurated at 
 Kensington Museum was not capable of making cooks. 
 Practice schools soon became an admitted necessity. 
 
 To found schools of this character was no easy task. 
 Public sentiment was not up to the need. Teachers, text- 
 books, and even pupils were wanting. It was unavoidably 
 an expensive method of education, and no great names stood 
 ready to back the movement. But the parties chiefly in- 
 terested were determined, and they moved onward. The 
 first organized classes for graded instructions and practice 
 in cookery were formed in 1874. These classes were open 
 to all, but especial encouragement was given to those pro- 
 posing to go out as teachers of this art, In this respect tho 
 
30 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 work was a great success, and large numbers of cooking* 
 schools have been formed in England. 
 
 These schools employ a series of printed " lessons/' 
 suited for use in all the work in all the various grades. 
 These lessons contained a list of ingredients needed for each 
 dish, with their quantity and cost. Then followed a specifi- 
 cation of the several steps to be taken, each distinct in itself 
 and numbered. Nothing was assumed to be known; 
 nothing was here taken for granted, all was clearly specified 
 and, if need be, explained. As trial showed defects in the 
 several lessons, they were carefully revised, and at last text- 
 books were issued. Every pupil learned what to do in each 
 case ; then they did it ; then they kept on doing it until they 
 could do it to perfection. As at " Dotheboys Hall," he whose 
 turn it was to spell " scrub " was set to scrub the floor, etc., 
 etc., so at these practice schools, she who studied " Irish 
 stew," made Irish stew, and capped the climax by eating it. 
 
 It is surprising that so diversified a company gathered in 
 these schools. An observer of the Kensington Museum 
 establishment says of the attendance : " There were cultivated 
 ladies, the daughters of country gentlemen, old house- 
 keepers, servants, cooks, and colored girls from South 
 Africa, together with a large proportion of intelligent young 
 women who were preparing to become teachers." 
 
 It may strike one who goes over these lessons that there 
 is a wearisome attention to trivial details* But it should not 
 be forgotten that the chief difference between good and bad 
 cookery lies just here* It is a prime point in cooking- 
 schools to make each item so prominent that it cannot be 
 overlooked. Strict attention to details is the corner-stone 
 of the culinary art. 
 
 Schools of cookery are now numerous in this country. 
 New York, Philadelphia, and all the principal cities have 
 institutions of this character. Text-books are numerous 
 top, EHza A, ypumans, Juliet Corson, and othwr 
 
THE ART OF COOKING. 31 
 
 have nobly led the van of culinary artistes, and their man- 
 uals are standards for cooking-schools. 
 
 To illustrate the method of the cooking-schools, two 
 " lessons " are here added, both on the making of Cabinet 
 Pudding. The first is from the American edition of Lessons 
 in Cookery, the handbook of the London school. 
 
 LESSON : CABINET PUDDING. 
 
 Ingredients. One dozen cherries or raisins, and two or three pieces of 
 angelica. One dozen finger-biscuits and half a dozen ratafias. One ounce 
 of loaf-sugar and fifteen drops of essence of vanilla. Four eggs. One 
 pint of milk. 
 
 Time required, about one Iwur. 
 To make a Cabinet Pudding: 
 
 1. Take a pint-and-a-half mold and butter it inside with 
 your fingers. 
 
 2. Take a dozen raisins or dried cherries, and two or three 
 pieces of angelica, and ornament the bottom of the mold with 
 them. 
 
 3. Take one dozen stale sponge finger-biscuits* and break 
 them in pieces. 
 
 4. Partly fill the mold with pieces of cake and a half a 
 dozen ratafias:^ 
 
 5. Take four yelks and two whites of eggs and put them 
 in a basin. 
 
 6. Add to the eggs one ounce of white sugar, and whip 
 them together lightly. 
 
 7. Stir in, by degrees, one pint of milk. 
 
 8. Flavor it by adding fifteen drops of essence of vanilla. 
 
 9. Pour this mixture over the cakes in the mold. 
 
 10. Place a piece of buttered paper over the top of the 
 mold. 
 
 1 1. Take a saucepan half full of boiling water, and stand 
 it on the side of the fire. 
 
 * To be had at the baker's. 
 
 | For sale at all large grocery -houses. 
 
32 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 12. Stand the mold in the saucepan, to steam for from 
 three-quarters of an hour to an hour. 
 
 N. B. The water should only reach half way up the mold, or it would 
 boil over and spoil the pudding. 
 
 13. For serving, turn the pudding carefully out of the 
 mold on to a hot dish." 
 
 The other " lesson " is from Miss Corson's Cooking- 
 school Text-book. It is the method pursued in the New 
 York Cooking-school and its offshoots. 
 
 LESSON: CABINET PUDDING. 
 
 INGREDIENTS. 
 
 j^lb. candied cherries, ..... 20 cents. 
 
 2 oz. citron, .......4" 
 
 j^lb. macaroons, - - - '"" ' - ^ - - 15 " 
 Sponge cake, .-....-10" 
 
 I pt. milk, 4 " 
 
 % z. gelatine, - - - X 3 " 
 
 I lemon, 2 " 
 
 3 oz. powdered sugar, -....-2" 
 
 Total, ..... 60 cents. 
 
 (i.) Soak the gelatine in two tablespoonfuls of cold watei 
 until it is soft, and then put it over the fire in a saucepan 
 with the milk, sugar, and the yellow rind of the lemon cut 
 very thin, and let it heat thoroughly, stirring occasionally 
 until the gelatine and sugar are dissolved. (2.) Cut the 
 citron in thin slices. Butter a plain pudding mold rather 
 thickly with cold butter, and ornament the bottom and sides 
 by placing some of the fruit against them in some pretty 
 shape. (3.) Place the remaining fruit and the cake in the 
 mold in alternate layers, and then strain the milk into the 
 mold. Set it where it will cool and grow firm, which will 
 be in four or five hours, and then turn it QUt of the mold 
 and serve it cold" . 
 
THE ART OF COOKING. 33 
 
 Every city has its leading caterer, who illustrates, when 
 opportunity offers, to what heights the gastronomic art may 
 be carried. On special occasions great " spreads " are made, 
 the cost of which will surprise the uninitiated. From two 
 to five dollars per plate is an ordinary charge for these en- 
 tertainments. Ten dollars for each guest is by no means 
 unusual. Twenty-five dollars for each guest, the wines in- 
 cluded, is a price often charged, and Delmonico, of New 
 York, furnished a dinner to ten persons, the cost of which 
 was estimated to be no less than four hundred dollars each. 
 
 The dinner was given by a distinguished yachting-man, 
 who insisted that the five men in waiting should be dressed 
 as sailors. He furnished the suits, new and elegant. The 
 guests drank, or tasted, every vinted liquor that has ever been 
 brought to America not that they drank every brand of 
 wine, but every grade was represented. They finished with 
 apousse cafe made of eleven liquors. 
 
 The bills of fare were a striking feature of the display. 
 Before each plate sat a cut-glass basin, about twenty inches 
 in diameter and four inches deep. Each was nearly filled 
 with water, perfumed with ottar of roses, on the surface of 
 which floated half-open pond lilies. In the basin a perfect 
 model of the yacht owned by the gentleman who gave the 
 dinner was placed. It was cut in red cedar wood, with 
 cabin, rail, wheel for steering, brass work, such as belaying- 
 pins, binnacle, etc., man ropes worked and trimmed with 
 sailor knots, scraped pine masts and booms, rigging of 
 silken cords colored as it would be in the prototype, and 
 sails of satin. 
 
 The sails carried the bills of fare. On the flying jib were 
 
 the words : " Compliments of ," naming the giver of 
 
 the dinner; on the jib the date and place; on the foresail 
 was the name of the guest who sat at the place where each 
 little vessel floated ; and on the mainsail was the menu. As 
 the guest had occasion to consult his bill of fare, he used a 
 
 a 
 
34 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 little gold oar that rested on the ringers of a silver naiad 
 who peered over the containing glass, and held out both 
 hands to grasp the oar. After the dinner each guest either 
 carried away his bill of fare or had it sent to his home. The 
 bills of fare were supposed to have cost at least one hundred 
 dollars apiece. Of course, the viands spread at such a table 
 were the finest the markets of the world could afford. 
 
 An artistic conclusion to an elaborate luncheon in New 
 York is thus described by one who was there : " The last 
 course was quite classic. A Greek would have appreciated it. 
 It would have given him visions of Hybla and Hymettus, and 
 their luxuriant growth of wild thyme. Everything was 
 removed from the table except the ferns in the centre. A 
 glass jug, some small glasses, and a plate of water crackers 
 were brought in. The hostess poured out for each guest a 
 tiny glass of metheglin. Any one who had forgotten the 
 old reputation of this liquor and of what it was made would 
 have been enlightened by seeing the jug. It looked like a 
 honeycomb. Through the wax-looking cells painted upon 
 its surface the liquor appeared like yellow honey. On the 
 stopper was a black and gold bee. The caster, or tray, in 
 which the jug stood was of glass also, covered with white 
 clover and other heather flowers, which give the delicate 
 flavor to Scotch and French honey. Such a finale seems to 
 claim for America mention among those nations which 
 Shakespeare describes as * exquisite in their drinking.' " 
 
n. SOUP STOCK, SOUPS, ETC, 
 
 GENERAL SUGGESTIONS ON SOUP STOCK AND SOUP MEAT, HOW 
 TO PREPARE THEM, HOW TO ENRICH THEM, THICKENING SOUP, 
 COLORING SOUP, FLAVORING SOUP, ETC. THIRTY-TWO RECIPES 
 FOR SOUPS AND INCIDENTAL PREPARATIONS. 
 
 THE first and great essential to making good soup is 
 stock, or good, fresh meat. To make stock, take the 
 liquor left after boiling fresh meat, bones large or 
 small, the large ones being cracked, that the marrow may 
 be extracted, trimmings of meat, bones, and meat left over 
 from a roast or broil, put any or all of these in a large pot 
 or soup-kettle with water enough to cover them. Let th^m 
 simmer slowly over a steady fire, keep the kettle covered, 
 stir frequently, pour in now and then a cup of cold water, 
 and skim off the scum. If it is fresh meat or bones, com* 
 mence with cold water ; if cooked, with warm water. Bones 
 are as useful as meat in making stock, as they furnish gela- 
 tine. A quart of water is usually enough for a pound of 
 meat. Six to eight hours will make stock fit for use. Let 
 it stand over night, then skim off the fat, put the stock into 
 an earthen jar, and it is ready for use. 
 
 Fresh meat should be freed from all superfluous skin and 
 fat, which make a soup greasy, rather than rich. 
 
 The glutinous substance contained in the bones renders it 
 important that they should be boiled with the meat, as they 
 add to the strength and thickness of the soup. The meat, 
 however, should be cut off the bone and divided into small 
 pieces. Place in cold water over a gentle fire and boil by 
 the long and slow process, that the essence of the meat may 
 
 35 
 
36 EVERY WOMAN" HER OWN COOK. 
 
 be drawn out thoroughly. When it comes to the boiling 
 point, throw in a little salt to assist the scum to rise ; then 
 skim carefully to prevent its becoming turbid. When no 
 more scum accumulates, and the meat is softened so as to 
 readily separate with the use of the fork, it should be 
 strained, the vegetables put it, the seasoning done, and the 
 necessary amount of hot water added if too much has boiled 
 away. 
 
 All soup meats are better boiled the day before using, so 
 as to allow the grease to chill over night, when it can 
 readily be removed before putting over the fire again. 
 
 The following thickening is almost indispensable to all 
 good soups : A tablespoonful or more of flour mixed to a 
 smooth paste with a little water, and enriched with a tea- 
 spoonful of butter, or good beef drippings well stirred in. 
 If it be necessary to add water to a soup, always use boil- 
 ing water, as cold water injures the flavor. If making a 
 rich soup that requires catsup or wine, let either be added 
 just before the soup is taken from the fire. 
 
 Soup may be colored yellow by the use of grated car- 
 rots; red with the juice of tomatoes ; green with the juice 
 of powdered spinach ; brown with carefully scorched flour, 
 kept ready for use. Onions are thought by many to be a 
 necessity in all soups that their flavor must lurk some- 
 where, either defined or undefined. Their flavor may be 
 much improved if fried until nicely browned in hot butter 
 before being added to the soup. Potatoes should never 
 be boiled with soup, because they add nothing to its flavor 
 and are themselves injured by the long cooking. They 
 should be boiled separately, and then added. 
 
 A most desirable quality in soup is that no one flavor 
 predominate over the others, but, that by a careful blending 
 of the different ingredients it shall contain and harmonize 
 all flavors. Soups and broths should always be strained. It 
 
SOU* 4TOCK, SOUPS, ETC. 3? 
 
 makes them more relishable as well as inviting to the eye. 
 A slight acid, like lemon or tomato, gives a peculiar relish 
 to some soups, as do many of the palatable condiments 
 prepared by such manufacturers as Durkee & Co., Annear 
 & Co., Cross & Blackwell, and several others, for this 
 especial purpose. With such helps and a sufficient quan- 
 tity of stock on hand, a choice, rich soup of any variety 
 may be gotten up in thirty minutes. 
 
 RECIPES. 
 
 Beef Soup. Boil a shin of beef, or a piece off the shoulder, 
 slowly and thoroughly, the day before desiring to use it ; 
 skim well the next day and thin the jelly, if necessary, with 
 water ; add a little brandy, a grated carrot, two tablespoon- 
 fuls of butter rubbed smooth in brown flour, a little vermi- 
 celli, and spices to taste. Two or three eggs may be boiled 
 hard, mashed smooth, and placed in the tureen before 
 turning in the soup. 
 
 Beef Soup, No. 2. Boil a shin of beef of moderate size, 
 crack the bone, remove the tough outside skin, wash, and 
 place in a kettle to boil with six or eight quarts of water. 
 Let it boil about four hours, until it becomes perfectly 
 tender, then take it out of the liquid. Add salt, one pint of 
 tomatoes, two onions cut in small pieces, two turnips cut in 
 quarters, one grated carrot, one large tablespoonful of sugar, 
 a little sweet marjoram and thyme rubbed fine, one red 
 pepper cut in very small pieces, also a celery top or a small 
 quantity of bruised celery seed. This soup may be thick- 
 ened according to taste either with vermicelli, macaroni, 
 noodles, or drop dumplings. 
 
 For an incidental side dish, take the soup meat that has 
 been cut from the bones, chop fine while warm, season with 
 salt and pepper, add one teacup of soup saved out before 
 
38 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 putting in the vegetables. Pack in a dish, and slice down 
 for tea or lunch when cold. 
 
 Beef Sonp with Okra. Cut a round steak in small pieces 
 and fry in three tablespoonfuls of butter, together with one 
 sliced onion, until very brown ; put into a soup kettle with 
 four quarts of cold water, and boil slowly an hour ; add 
 salt, pepper, and one pint of sliced okra, and simmer three 
 and one-half hours longer. Strain before serving. 
 
 Corned Beef Soup. When the liquor in which corned beef 
 and vegetables have been boiled is cold, remove all the 
 grease that has risen and hardened on the top, and add 
 tomatoes and tomato catsup and boil half an hour thus 
 making an excellent tomato soup ; or add to it rice, or sago, 
 or pearl barley, or turn it into a vegetable soup by boiling in 
 the liquor any vegetables that are fancied. Several varieties 
 of soups may have this stock for a basis and be agreeable 
 to the taste. 
 
 Ox-tail Soup. Chop the ox-tail into small pieces ; set on 
 the fire with a tablespoonful of butter, and stir until brown, 
 and then pour off the fat; add broth to taste, and boil gently 
 until the pieces of tail are well cooked. Season with pepper, 
 salt, and three or four tomatoes ; boil fifteen minutes and 
 then serve. This soup can be made with water, instead of 
 the stock broth, in which case season with carrot, onion, 
 turnip, and parsley. 
 
 Mutton Broth. After the steaks have been cut from the 
 leg, the lower part is just adapted for a soup. The neck- 
 piece is also very nice. Boil the meat very gently in cold 
 water, adding a turnip, a carrot, and a spoonful of rice. All 
 the fat should be removed. Toward the last, add a little 
 minced parsley. Dumplings are an excellent addition. 
 
 Vegetable Soup. Take two pounds of shin of beef and two 
 pounds of knuckle of veal ; remove all the fat and break 
 
SOUP STOCK, SOUPS, ETC. 
 
 the bones and take out the marrow ; put into a pot with five 
 pints of water ; add a teaspoonful of salt, and then cover and 
 let it come to a boil quickly ; remove the scum that rises, 
 and set where it will simmer for five hours ; one hour before 
 serving, add two young carrots, scraped and cut in slices, 
 half a head of celery, and a small onion cut into squares ; in 
 half an hour add one turnip sliced, and in fifteen minutes 
 one cauliflower broken in small pieces. 
 
 Bean Soup. Soak one and a half pints of beans in cold 
 water over night. In the morning drain off the water, wash 
 the beans in fresh water, and put into soup-kettle with four 
 quarts of good beef stock, from which all the fat has been 
 removed. Set it where it will boil slowly but steadily for 
 three hours at the least. Two hours before it is needed for 
 use, slice in an onion and a carrot. Some think it im- 
 proved by adding a little tomato. If the beans are not liked 
 whole, strain through a colander and send to the table hot. 
 
 Black Bean Soup. Three pounds soup bone, one quart 
 black beans, soaked over night and drained ; one onion, 
 chopped fine ; juice of one lemon. Pepper, salt, and Durkee's 
 Challenge Sauce to taste. Boil the soup bone, beans, and 
 onions together six hours ; strain, and add seasoning. Slice 
 lemon and put on top when served. 
 
 Tomato Soup. Take a knuckle of veal, a bony piece of 
 beef, a neck of mutton, or almost any piece of meat you 
 may happen to have ; set it over the fire in a small quantity 
 of water, cover it closely, and boil very gently, to extract 
 the juices of the meat. When nearly done, add a quantity 
 of peeled tomatoes, and stew till the tomatoes are done ; add 
 salt and pepper to your taste. This is a very cheap, healthful, 
 and easily made soup. 
 
 Tomato Soup, No. 2. Take one quart of tomatoes. When 
 boiling, add one teaspoonful of soda, two pulverized soda 
 
40 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 crackers, one pint of hot water, one pint of milk, salt, and 
 pepper ; strain through a colander and serve hot. 
 
 Green Pea Soup. Boil the empty pods of a half-peck of 
 green peas in one gallon of water one hour ; strain them 
 out ; add four pounds of beef cut into small pieces, and boil 
 slowly for an hour and a half longer. Half an hour before 
 serving add the shelled peas, and twenty minutes later half 
 a cup of rice flour, salt, pepper, and a little chopped parsley. 
 After adding the rice flour stir frequently so as to pre- 
 vent scorching. 
 
 Dried Split Pea Soup. One gallon of water, one quart of 
 soaked split peas, half a pound of salt pork, one pound of 
 beef. Put over the fire, seasoning with salt and pepper, 
 celery salt, salpicant, curry powder, marjoram, or savory; 
 let it boil slowly for two hours, or until the quantity of 
 liquor does not exceed two quarts. Pour into a colander 
 and press the peas through with a spoon. Fry two or three 
 slices of stale bread in butter till brown, scatter them in the 
 soup after it is placed in the tureen. 
 
 Corn Soup. Cut the corn from the cob, and to a pint of 
 corn allow one quart of hot water ; boil an hour and press 
 through a colander; put into a saucepan an ounce of but- 
 ter and a tablespoonful of flour, being careful to stir well to 
 prevent it being lumpy, then add the corn pulp, a little 
 cayenne pepper, salt, a pint of boiling milk, and half a pint 
 of cream. 
 
 Onion Soup. Slice ten medium-sized onions and fry brown 
 in butter with a tablespoonful and a half of flour ; put into a 
 saucepan, and stir in slowly four or five pints of milk and 
 water (about one-third water) ; season to taste, and add a 
 teacupful of grated potato ; set in a kettle of boiling water, 
 and cook ten minutes ; add a cup of sweet cream and serve 
 quickly. 
 
SOUP STOCK, SOUPS, ETC. 41 
 
 Mock-turtle Soup. Scald a calf's head and wash it clean ; 
 boil it in a large pot of water for half an hour, cut all the 
 skin off, and take the tongue out. Take the broth made of 
 a knuckle of veal, put in the tongue and skin, with one 
 onion, half-ounce of cloves, half-ounce of mace, half a nut- 
 meg, all kinds of sweet herbs chopped fine, and three 
 anchovies. Stew till tender ; then take out the meat, and 
 cut it in pieces two inches square ; cut the tongue, previously 
 skinned, in slices ; strain the liquor through a sieve ; melt 
 half a pound of butter in a stewpan ; put in it half a pound 
 of flour and stir it till smooth if at all lumpy, strain it; add 
 the liquor, stirring it all the time ; then put to the meat the 
 juice of two lemons, or one bottle of Madeira wine, if pre- 
 ferred ; season rather highly with pepper, salt, and cayenne 
 pepper ; put in a few meat balls and eight eggs boiled hard. 
 Stew gently one hour, and serve in a tureen ; if too thick, 
 add more liquor before stewing the last time. 
 
 Mock-turtle Soup? No. 2. Take a calf's head and about 
 two pounds of delicate fat pork. Put both into a soup- 
 kettle, with two onions, sweet herbs, celery, pepper, and 
 mace. Fill the kettle with water, and boil very gently till 
 the meat is tender. Take out the head and the pork, return 
 the bones of the head into the soup ; let it stew several 
 hours longer ; and, when cold, take off the fat, strain the 
 soup, and thicken; add the juice of a lemon and half a pint 
 of white wine. Cut up the head and pork into pieces ; warm 
 them up in the soup, adding some choice meat balls made 
 from finely minced, savory meat. The pork will be found 
 quite an addition to the soup and a substitute for the fat of 
 the turtle. 
 
 Gumbo Soup. Cut up two chickens, two slices of ham, and 
 two onions into dice ; flour them, and fry the whole to a 
 light brown ; then fill the frying-pan with boiling water, stir 
 
42 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 it a few minutes, and turn the whole into a saucepan con- 
 taining three quarts of boiling water ; let it boil forty min- 
 utes, removing the scum. In the meantime soak three pods 
 of okra in cold water twenty minutes ; cut them into thin 
 slices, and add to the other ingredients ; let it boil one hour 
 and a half. Add a quart of canned tomatoes and a cupful 
 of boiled rice half an hour before serving. 
 
 Southern Gumbo Soup. Cut up one chicken, and fry it to 
 a light brown, also two slices of bacon ; pour on them three 
 quarts of boiling water ; add one onion and some sweet 
 herbs tied in a bag ; simmer them gently three hours and a 
 half; strain off the liquor, take off the fat, and then put the 
 ham and chicken (cut into small pieces) into the liquor; 
 add half a teacup of sliced okra, also half a teacup of boiled 
 rice. Boil all half an hour, and just before serving add a 
 glass of wine and a dozen oysters with their juice. 
 
 Julienne Soup. Scrape two carrots and two turnips, and 
 cut in pieces an inch long ; cut slices lengthwise about one- 
 eighth of an inch thick; then cut again, so as to make 
 square strips ; put them in a saucepan, with two ounces of 
 butter, three tablespoonfuls of cabbage chopped fine, and 
 half an onion chopped ; set on the fire and stir until half 
 fried ; add broth as you wish to make thick or thin ; boil 
 until done ; salt to taste ; skim off the fat, and serve ; it 
 takes about two hours to prepare this soup properly. It 
 can be served with rice or barley. 
 
 Macaroni or Vermicelli Soup. Two small carrots, four 
 onions, two turnips, two cloves, one tablespoonful salt, pep- 
 per to taste. Herbs marjoram, parsley, and thyme. Put 
 any cooked or uncooked meat and its bones in enough water 
 to cover them; when they boil, skim them and add the 
 vegetables. Simmer three or four hours, then strain 
 through a colander and put back in the saucepan to reheat 
 
SOUP STOCK, SOUPS, ETC. 43 
 
 Boil one-half pound macaroni until quite tender, and place 
 in the soup tureen, and pour the soup over it the last 
 thing. Vermicelli will need to be soaked a short time only 
 not to be boiled. 
 
 White Soup. Boil a knuckle of veal for three hours. Add 
 a quarter of a pound of macaroni, and when done, a pint of 
 cream. Season with lemon-peel and mace. 
 
 Turkey Soup. Take the turkey bones and boil three- 
 quarters of an hour in water enough to cover them ; add a 
 little summer savory and celery chopped fine. Just before 
 serving, thicken with a little browned flour, and season 
 with pepper, salt, and a small piece of butter. 
 
 Chicken Soup. To the broth in which chickens have been 
 boiled for salad, etc., add one onion and eight or ten 
 tomatoes ; season with pepper and salt ; add Challenge Sauce 
 or Salpicant, if desired ; boil thirty minutes ; add two well* 
 beaten eggs just before sending to the table. 
 
 Lobster Soup. To boil a lobster, put it in a fish-kettle and 
 cover it with cold water, cooking it on a quick fire. Remove 
 the small bladder found near the head, and take out a small 
 vein found immediately under the shell all along the back 
 of the lobster, and use the rest. Two lobsters will make 
 soup for six or eight persons, and salad also. All the under 
 shell and small claws are pounded in a mortar to make the 
 soup ; when pounded, put it into a pan and set it on the fire 
 with broth or water. The meat is cut in small pieces, to 
 be added afterward. The soup is left on the fire to boil 
 gently for half an hour ; then put it in a sieve and press it 
 with a masher to extract the juice. To make it thicker, a 
 small piece of parsnip can be added and mashed with the 
 rest into a pan, so that all the essence is extracted in that way 
 from the lobster. When you have strained it put a little 
 
44 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 butter with it and add as much broth as is required ; put 
 some of the meat in the tureen and pour the soup over it. 
 
 Clam Soup. Wash the clams free from grit; boil them in 
 a pint of water till they will come from the shells easily. 
 Take a small quantity of the liquor, add some milk, thicken 
 it with a little flour, and add the clams. Split crackers are 
 veiy nice added. 
 
 Portable Soup. Boil a knuckle of veal, also the feet, a 
 shin of beef, a cowheel or any other bones of meat which 
 will produce a stiff jelly, in a large kettle, with as much 
 water as will cover them. Let it stand a long time over the 
 fire before it boils. Skim it most thoroughly, until the 
 broth appears entirely clear. Then fill up the kettle with 
 hot water, and boil it eight hours, or until it has evaporated 
 so as to be somewhat thick. Run it through a hair sieve, 
 set it in a cool place where it will harden very quickly. Skim 
 off every particle of fat, and return it to a saucepan ; skim 
 and stir continually, so that it may not scorch, and all the 
 previous labor be lost, until it becomes a very thick syrup. 
 As soon as it can be no longer done in this way, transfer it 
 to a deep jar, and set into a kettle of water, hot, but not 
 boiling, until it jellies very thick. This will keep good 
 many months, if packed dry in tin canisters. This is the con- 
 centrated essence of soup, and is a most convenient article 
 of use, either at home in an emergency or in traveling, and 
 especially at sea. To make a pint of soup, cut off a piece 
 as large as a walnut, dissolve it in the boiling water, and it 
 is ready for use. 
 
 Fluid Bee Among the advanced preparations of the day 
 meat extracts are taking a high place. One of the finest of 
 these preparations is " Johnston's Fluid Beef." It contains 
 all the nutritive constituents of the beef, and is readily 
 available for soups, sandwiches, beef tea, etc. For medi-. 
 cal uses, traveling, picnics, etc,, it is very convenient. To 
 
SOUP STOCK, SOUPS, ETC. 4$ 
 
 use for soups and beef tea, add a teaspoonful to a cup of 
 boiling water and season to taste ; or as a sandwich paste, 
 it may be used on toast, with or without butter. Put up 
 in cans of various sizes, from two ounces to one pound, 
 which can be left open without injury to contents. 
 
 RECIPES INCIDENTAL TO SOUPS. 
 
 Meat Balls for Soup. Take fresh cooked meat or fowl and 
 chop fine ; season with pepper, salt, and herbs, and a little 
 lemon ; mix together with an egg ; roll in bread-crumbs, 
 and fry in hot lard. 
 
 Browned Flour for Soups. Dredge the bottom of a spider 
 well with flour, and shake it over hot coals, letting it brown 
 gradually, but not burn. Keep it in a dry place, in a tin 
 canister, without wholly closing the lid. It is very con- 
 venient to have it already prepared, although when used fresh 
 it is much nicer. 
 
 Home-made Noodlesa substitute for Vermicelli Wet with 
 the yelks of four eggs as much fine, dry, sifted flour as will 
 make them into a firm but very smooth paste. Roll it out 
 as thin as possible, and cut it into bands of about an inch 
 and a quarter in width. Dust them lightly with flour, and 
 place four of them one upon the other. Cut them in the 
 finest possible strips, separate them with the point of a 
 knife, and spread them on the pie-board so that they may 
 dry a little before they are used. Drop them gradually into 
 the boiling soup, and in five minutes they will be done. 
 
 Drop Dumplings. Take prepared flour, add a little beef 
 drippings or lard, well rubbed through, and moisten to a soft 
 dough. With floured hands pinch off very small pieces and 
 form into balls by rolling in the palm of the hand. In boil- 
 ing dumplings of any kind, put them in the water one at a 
 time. If they are put in together they will blend with each 
 other. 
 
III. FISH, OYSTERS, ETC. 
 
 HINTS CONCERNING FISH TESTS OF FRESHNESS, HOW TO 
 
 HOW TO DRESS, HOW TO BOIL FISH, HOW TO BAKE FISH, 
 HOW TO BROIL FISH, HOW TO FRY FISH, ETC. FIFTY-THREE 
 RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH, OYSTERS, ETC., AND FOR INCI- 
 DENTAL PREPARATIONS. 
 
 FISH should be eaten as soon as possible after being 
 taken from the water. In every kind of fish, the 
 brightness of the eyes, redness of the gills, firmness 
 of the flesh, and stiffness of the fins are indications of fresh- 
 ness. Fish should be thoroughly cleaned as soon as prac- 
 ticable. Great care should be taken to remove every atom 
 of blood, to rinse carefully, and not to soak them longer 
 than necessary. Fish are dressed in a variety of ways to 
 suit different tastes boiled, baked, broiled, and fried. The 
 most ordinary methods are broiling or frying. In boiling, 
 large fish should be wrapped in a cloth previously floured 
 to prevent sticking, tied with a string, and covered with 
 from two to three inches of cold water already salted ; from 
 six to ten minutes per pound will generally be found suf- 
 ficient for boiling. Remove from the fire the moment it is 
 done, and place upon a sieve to drain. 
 
 In baking fish, cleanse and wipe dry ; fill to taste ; sew to- 
 gether ; place in a dripping-pan ; season with salt and pepper ; 
 add sufficient water to baste with, or if a filling of oysters 
 is used, baste with the liquor off them. The space between 
 the fish and the sides of the pan may be filled with slices of 
 raw potatoes one-quarter of an inch thick, and serve fish 
 and potatoes together, A large fish will bake in an hour. 
 
 46 
 
PISH, OYSTERS, ETC. 47 
 
 For broiling, thoroughly cleanse and dry ; split open so 
 that the backbone will be flat in the middle ; season with salt 
 And pepper, and place on a buttered gridiron over a clear 
 fire with the inside downward until it begins to brown, then 
 turn over. When done, serve on a hot dish and butter lib- 
 erally. 
 
 Fish may be very nicely fried in hot lard with only a 
 seasoning of salt and pepper, and a little flour dredged 
 over it, or it may be spread with beaten eggs and rolled in 
 cracker or bread crumbs before frying. Challenge sauce, 
 Worcestershire sauce, and similar condiments upon fish will 
 be found to give a most delicate and piquant flavoring. 
 
 RECIPES. 
 
 Broiled Shad. Scrape, split, wash, and dry the shad on a 
 cloth; season with pepper and salt; grease the gridiron 
 well ; as soon as it is hot lay the shad on to broil with the 
 inside downward. One side being well browned, turn it. 
 It should broil a quarter of an hour or more, according to 
 thickness. Butter well and send to table hot. 
 
 Baked Shad. Many people are of the opinion that the 
 very best method of cooking a shad is to bake it. Stuff it 
 with bread-crumbs, salt, pepper, butter, and parsley, and 
 mix this up with beaten yelk of egg ; fill the fish with it, 
 and sew it up or fasten a string around it. Pour over it a 
 little water and some butter, and bake as you would a fowl. 
 A shad will require from an hour to an hour and a quarter 
 to bake. 
 
 Halibut Cutlets. Cut your halibut steaks an inch thick, 
 wipe them with a dry cloth, and season with saJt and cay- 
 enne pepper. Have ready a pan of yelk of eggs well 
 beaten and a dish of grated bread-crumbs. Put ornp fresh 
 
48 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 lard or beef drippings in a frying-pan and hold it over thi 
 fire till it boils. Dip your cutlets in the egg, and then in 
 the bread-crumbs. Fry a light brown; serve up hot. 
 Salmon or any large fish may be fried in the same manner. 
 
 Baked Cod or Halibut Use a piece of fish from the middle 
 of the back, weighing four, five, or six pounds. Lay the fish 
 in very cold salt-and-water for two hours ; wipe dry ; make 
 deep gashes in both sides at right angles with the back- 
 bone, and rub into these, as well as coat it all over with, a 
 force-meat made of the crumbs, pork, herbs, onion, and 
 seasoning, made to adhere by raw egg. Lay in the baking- 
 pan and pour over it the drawn butter (which should be quite 
 thin), season with the anchovy sauce, lemon juice, pepper, 
 and a pinch of parsley. Bake in a moderate oven nearly an 
 hour or even more if the piece be large basting frequently 
 lest it should brown too fast. Add a little butter-and-water 
 when the sauce thickens too much. When the fish is done, 
 remove to a hot dish, and strain the gravy over it. A few 
 capers or chopped green pickles are a pleasant addition to 
 the gravy. 
 
 Boiled Halibut. Take a small halibut, or what you require 
 from a large fish. Put it into the fish-kettle, with the back 
 of the fish undermost ; cover it with cold water, in which a 
 handful of salt and a bit of saltpetre the size of a hazel-nut 
 have been dissolved. When it begins to boil skim it care- 
 fully, and then let it just simmer till it is done. Four pounds 
 of fish will require half an hour nearly to boil it. Drain it, 
 garnish with horse-radish or parsley. Egg sauce, or plain 
 melted butter, are served with it. 
 
 Boiled Rockfish. After the fish has been nicely cleaned, 
 put it into a pot with water enough to cover it, and throw 
 in salt in the proportion of half a teaspoonful to a pound of 
 fish. Boil it slowly until the meat is tender and easily sep- 
 
OYSTERS, ETC. 4ft 
 
 Arates from the bones. A large fish will require an hour to 
 cook. When done, serve on a hot dish, and have a few 
 hard-boiled eggs, cut in thin slices, laid around it and over 
 it. Eat with egg-sauce. 
 
 WMte Fisk This fish may be broiled, fried, or baked. 
 To bake it, prepare a stuffing of fine bread-crumbs, a little 
 salt pork chopped very fine ; season with sage, parsley, pep- 
 per, and salt. Fill the fish with the stuffing, sew it up, 
 sprinkle the outside with salt, pepper, and flour, and bake. 
 In frying white fish, pour off the fat as it accumulates, as it 
 is apt to be too fat when served. 
 
 Broiled Salmon. The steaks from the centre of the fish 
 are best. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, spread on a little 
 butter, and broil over a clear but slow fire. 
 
 Smoked Salmon, Broiled. Take a half pound of smoked 
 salmon and parboil it ten minutes ; lay in cold water for the 
 same length of time ; wipe dry and broil over a clear fire. 
 Add two tablespoonfuls of butter while hot ; season with 
 cayenne and the juice of half a lemon; pile in a "log- 
 cabin " square upon a hot plate, and serve with dry toast. 
 
 Boiled Salmon. A piece weighing six pounds should be 
 rubbed with salt, tied carefully in a cloth, and boiled slowly 
 for three-quarters of an hour. It should be eaten with egg or 
 caper sauce. If any remain after dinner, it may be placed 
 in a deep dish, a little salt sprinkled over, and a teacupful of 
 boiling vinegar poured upon it. Cover it closely, and it will 
 make a nice breakfast dish. 
 
 Baked Salmon with Cream Sance. Butter a sheet of fools* 
 cap paper on both sides, and wrap the fish up in it, pinning 
 the ends securely together. Lay in the baking-pan, and 
 pour six or seven spoonfuls of butter-and-water over it. 
 Turn another pan over all, and steam in a moderate oven 
 4 
 
50 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 from three-quarters of an nour to an hour, lifting the cover, 
 from time to time, to baste and assure yourself that the 
 paper is not burning. Meanwhile, have ready in a sauce- 
 pan a cup of cream, in which you would do well to dis- 
 solve a bit of soda a little larger than a pea. This is a wise 
 precaution whenever cream is to be boiled. Heat this in a 
 vessel placed within another of hot water ; thicken with a 
 heaping teaspoonful of corn-starch ; add a tablespoonful of 
 butter, pepper and salt to taste, a liberal pinch of minced 
 parsley, and when the fish is unwrapped and dished, pour 
 half the dressing slowly over it, sending the rest to table 
 in a boat. If you have no cream, use milk, and add a beaten 
 egg to the thickening. 
 
 Salmon Steaks or Cutlets Pried. Cu': slices from the middle 
 of the fish one inch thick ; wipe dry, and salt slightly ; dip 
 Jin egg, then in cracker crumbs ; fry very quickly in hot 
 butter ; drain off every drop of grease, and serve upon a hot 
 dish. Sprinkle green parsley in bunches over it. The 
 French use the best salad-oil in this recipe instead of butter. 
 
 Pickled Salmon. Soak salt salmon twenty-four hours, 
 changing the water frequently ; afterward pour boiling water 
 around it, a&d let it stand fifteen minutes ; drain off and 
 then pour on boiling vinegar with cloves and mace added. 
 
 Pried Perch. Scale and clean them perfectly ; dry them 
 well, flour and fry them in boiling lard. Serve plenty of 
 fried parsley round them. 
 
 Pried Tront Wash, drain, and split ; roll in flour, season 
 with salt ; have some thin slices of salt pork in a pan, and 
 when very hot put in the fish and fry to a nice brown. 
 
 Stewed Tront Clean and wash the fish with care, and 
 wipe it perfectly dry ; put into a stewpan two tablespoonfuls 
 of butter, dredge in as it melts a little flour, grate half a 
 
FISH, OYSTERS, ETC. 51 
 
 nutmeg, a few blades of mace, a little cayenne, and a tea- 
 spoonful of salt ; mix it all together ; then lay in the fish, let 
 it brown slightly; pour over some veal gravy, a lemon 
 thinly sliced ; stew very slowly for forty minutes ; take out 
 the fish, and add two glasses of wine to the gravy. Lay 
 the fish on a hot dish, and pour over it some of the gravy. 
 Serve the rest in a sauce-tureen. 
 
 Pried Catfish. Catfish must be cooked quite fresh if pos< 
 sible, directly out of the water. The larger ones are gener- 
 ally coarse and strong ; the small-sized fish are the best. 
 Wash and clean them, cut off their heads and tails, remove 
 the upper part of the backbone near the shoulders, and 
 score them along the back with deep gashes or incisions, 
 Dredge them with flour, and fry them in plenty of lard, 
 boiling fast when the catfish are put into the pan. Or you 
 may fry them in the drippings or gravy saved from roast 
 beef or veal. They are very nice dipped in a batter of 
 beaten egg and grated bread-crumbs, or they may be done 
 plain, though not in so nice a way, with Indian meal instead 
 of bread-crumbs. Drain orT the lard before you dish them. 
 Touch each incision or cut very slightly with a little cay- 
 enne before they go to table. 
 
 Pried Eels. After skinning, emptying, and washing them 
 as clean as possible, cut them into short pieces, and dry 
 them well with a soft cloth. Season them with fine salt 
 and cayenne, flour them thickly, and fry them in boiling 
 lard ; when nicely browned, drain and dry them, and send 
 to the table with plain melted butter and a lemon, or with 
 fish-sauce. Eels are sometimes dipped into batter and then 
 fried, or into egg and dried bread-crumbs, and served with 
 plenty of crisped parsley 
 
 Fish Chowder. Take a fresh haddock, of three or four 
 pounds, clean it well, and cut in pieces of three inches 
 
52 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 square. Place in the bottom of your dinner-pot five or six 
 slices of salt pork, fry brown, then add three onions sliced 
 thin, and fry those brown. Remove the kettle from the fire, 
 and place on the onions and pork a layer of fish. Sprinkle 
 over a little pepper and salt, then a layer of pared and sliced 
 potatoes, a layer of fish and potatoes, till the fish is used up. 
 Cover with water, and let it boil for half an hour. Pound 
 six biscuits or crackers fine as meal, and pour into the pot ; 
 and, lastly, add a pint of milk ; let it scald well, and serve. 
 
 New England Chowder. Take a good haddock, cod, or any 
 other solid fish, cut it in pieces three inches square ; put a 
 pound of fat, salt pork, cut into strips, into the pot ; set it 
 on hot coals and fry out the grease ; take out the pork, but 
 leave the grease in the bottom of the pot, and put in a layer 
 of fish, over that a layer of sliced onions, over that a layer 
 of fish, with slips of the fried pork, then another layer of 
 onions and a few sliced raw potatoes, and so on alternately 
 until your fish is all in ; mix some flour with as much water 
 as will fill the pot ; season to suit your taste, and boil for 
 half an hour ; have ready some pilot bread, soaked in water, 
 and throw them into your chowder five minutes before tak- 
 ing off; serve in a tureen. 
 
 Fish-balls. Two cupfuls cold boiled codfish, fresh or 
 salted. Chop the fish when you have freed it of bones and 
 skin ; work in one cupful of mashed potatoes, and moisten 
 with a half cup of drawn butter with an egg beaten in. Sea- 
 son to taste. Have them soft enough to mold, yet firm 
 enough to keep in shape. Roll the balls in flour, and fry 
 quickly to a golden-brown in lard or clean dripping. Take 
 from the fat so soon as they are done ; lay in a colander or 
 sieve and shake gently, to free them from every drop of 
 grease. Turn out for moment on white paper to absorb any 
 lingering drops, and serve on a hot dish. 
 
FJfSff. 0*STKS, MTC. 6$ 
 
 Stewed Oysters. Take one quart of oysters ; put the liqtior 
 (a teacupful for three persons) in a stewpan, and add half as 
 much more water, salt and pepper to taste, and let it boil, 
 Have your oysters ready in a bowl, and the moment the 
 A iquor boils, pour in all your oysters, say ten for each per- 
 json, or six will do. Now, watch carefully, and as soon as 
 it begins to boil take out your watch, count just thirty 
 seconds, and take your oysters from the stove. You will 
 have your big dish ready, with one and a half tablespoonfuls 
 of cream or milk for each person. Pour your stew on this 
 and serve immediately. Never boil an oyster in milk. 
 
 Maryland Stewed Oysters. Put the juice into a saucepan 
 and let it simmer, skimming it carefully ; then rub the yelks 
 of three hard-boiled eggs and one large spoonful of flour 
 well together, and stir into the juice. Cut in small pieces 
 quarter of a pound of butter, half a teaspoonful of whole 
 allspice, a little salt, a little cayenne, and the juice of a fresh 
 lemon; let all simmer ten minutes, and just before dishing 
 add the oysters. This is for two quarts of oysters. 
 
 Panned Oysters. Have ready several small pans of block 
 tin, with upright sides. Cut stale bread in thin slices, then 
 round them to a size that will just fit in the bottoms of your 
 pans. Toast these quickly to a light brown, butter, and lay 
 within your tins. Wet with a great spoonful of oyster liquid, 
 then, with a silver fork, arrange upon the toast as many oys* 
 ters as the pans will hold without heaping them up. Dust 
 with pepper and salt, put a bit of butter on top, and set the 
 pans, when all are full, upon the floor of a quick oven. Cover 
 with an inverted baking-pan to keep in steam and flavor, 
 and cook until the oysters " ruffle." Eight minutes in a 
 brisk oven should be enough. Send very hot to the table 
 in tins in which they were roasted. Next to roasting in the 
 shell, this mode of cooking oysters best preserves theii 
 native flavor. 
 
54 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 Roasted Oysters. Take oysters in the shell; wash th* 
 shells clean, and lay them on hot coals ; when they are done 
 they will begin to open. Remove the upper shell, and serve 
 the oysters in the lower shell, with a little melted butter 
 poured over each, and season to taste. 
 
 Oyster Toast Select fifteen plump oysters; mince them, 
 and season with mixed pepper and a pinch of nutmeg ; beat 
 the yelks of four eggs and mix them with half a pint of 
 cream. Put the whole into a saucepan and set it over the 
 fire to simmer till thick ; stir it well, and do not let it boil, 
 lest it should curdle. Toast five pieces of bread, and butter 
 them ; when your dish is near the boiling-point, remove it 
 from the fire and pour it over the toast. 
 
 Cream Oysters. Fifty shell oysters, one quart sweet cream ; 
 butter, pepper, and salt to suit taste. Put the cream and 
 oysters in separate kettles to heat, the oysters in their own 
 liquor, and let them come to a boil; when sufficiently 
 cooked, skim ; then take them out of the liquid and put 
 them into a dish to keep warm. Put the cream and 
 liquid together. Season to taste, and thicken with powdered 
 cracker. When sufficiently thick, stir in the oysters. 
 
 Broiled Oysters. Drain select oysters in a colander. Dip 
 them one by one into melted butter, to prevent sticking tc 
 the gridiron, and place them on a wire gridiron. Broil over 
 a clear fire. When nicely browned on both sides, season 
 with salt, pepper, and plenty of butter, and lay them on hot 
 buttered toast, moistened with a little hot water. Serve 
 very hot Oysters cooked in this way and served on broiled 
 beefsteak are delicious. 
 
 Pried Oysters. Select the largest and finest fresh oysters, 
 put them into a colander and pour over a little water to 
 rinse them ; then place them on a dean towel and dry them. 
 Have ready some grated bread-crumbs, seasoned with 
 
FISH, OYSTERS, ETC. 55 
 
 pepper and salt, and plenty of yelk of egg beaten till very 
 light ; and to each egg allow a large teaspoonful of rich 
 cream or of the best fresh butter. Beat the egg and cream 
 together. Dip each oyster first into the egg and cream, 
 and then into the crumbs. Repeat this twice, until the 
 oysters are well coated all over. Have ready boiling, in a 
 frying-pan, an equal mixture of fresh butter and lard. It 
 must very nearly fill the frying-pan, and be boiling fast when 
 the oysters go in, otherwise they will be heavy and greasy. 
 Fry them of a yellow brown on both sides, and serve hot. 
 
 Oyster Salad, see Salads. 
 
 Spiced or Pickled Oysters. Put into a porcelain kettle one 
 hundred and fifty large oysters with the liquor ; add salt, 
 and simmer till the edges roll or curl ; skim them out ; add 
 to the liquor one pint of white wine vinegar, one dozen 
 blades mace, three dozen cloves, and three dozen pepper- 
 corns ; let it come to a boil, and pour over the oysters. 
 Serve with slices of lemon floating in saucer. 
 
 Oyster Omelette. Allow for every six large oysters or 
 twelve small ones one egg ; remove the hard part and mince 
 the rest very fine ; take the yelks of eight eggs and whites of 
 four, beat till very light, then mix in the oysters ; season and 
 beat up thoroughly ; put into a skillet a gill of butter, let it 
 melt ; when the butter boils, skim it and turn in the ome- 
 lette ; stir until it stiffens ; fry light brown ; when the under 
 side is brown, turn on to a hot platter. To brown the upper 
 side, hold a red-hot shovel over it. 
 
 Scalloped Oysters, No. 1. Open the shells, setting aside for 
 use the deepest ones. Have ready some melted butter, not 
 hot, seasoned with minced parsley and pepper.- Roll each 
 oyster in this, letting it drip as little as may be, and lay in 
 the shells ; which should be arranged in a baking-pan. Add 
 
66 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 to each a little lemon juice, sift bread-crumbs over it, and 
 bake in a quick oven until done. Serve in the shells. 
 
 Scalloped Oysters, No. 2. Cover the bottom of a baking- 
 dish (well buttered) with a layer of crumbs, and wet these 
 with cream, put on spoonful by spoonful. Pepper and salt, 
 and strew with minute bits of butter. Next, put in the oys- 
 ters, with a little of their liquor. Pepper them, stick bits of 
 butter in among them, and cover with dry crumbs until the 
 oysters are entirely hidden. Add more pieces of butter, very 
 small, and arrange thickly on top. Set in the oven, invert 
 a plate over it to keep in the flavor, and bake until the juice 
 bubbles up to the top. Remove the cover, and brown on 
 the upper grating for two or three minutes. Serve in the 
 bake-dish. 
 
 Oyster Pie. Line a dish with a puff paste or a rich bis- 
 cuit paste, and dredge well with flour ; drain one quart of 
 oysters ; season with pepper, salt, and butter, and pour into 
 the dish ; add some of the liquor ; dredge with flour, and 
 cover with a top crust, leaving a small opening in the 
 centre. Bake in a quick oven. 
 
 Oyster Patties. Put one quart of oysters in a saucepan, 
 with liquor enough to cover them, set it on the stove and 
 let them come to a boil ; skim well, and stir in two table- 
 spoonfuls of butter, a little pepper, and salt Line some 
 patty-pans with puff-paste, fill with oysters, cover with paste, 
 and bake twenty minutes in a hot oven. The upper crust 
 may be omitted, if desired. 
 
 Oyster Macaroni. Boil macaroni in a cloth to keep it 
 straight. Put a layer in a dish seasoned with pepper, salt, 
 and butter, then a layer of oysters, until the dish is full. 
 Mix some grated bread with a beaten egg, spread over the 
 top, and bake. 
 
 Oyster Sauce, see Sauces. 
 
FISH, OYSTERS, ETC. 57 
 
 Boiled Lobster. If purchased alive, lobsters should be 
 chosen by weight (the heaviest are the best) and their live* 
 liness and briskness of motion. When freshly boiled they 
 are stiff, and their tails turn strongly inward ; when the fish 
 appear soft and watery, they are stale. The flesh of the 
 male lobster is generally considered of the finest flavor for 
 eating, but the hen lobster is preferred for sauce and soups, 
 on account of the coral. 
 
 To properly boil lobsters, throw them living into a kettle 
 of fast-boiling salt and water, that life may be destroyed in 
 an instant. Let them boil for about half an hour. When 
 done, take them out of the kettle, wipe them clean, and rub 
 the shell with a little salad-oil, which will give a clear red 
 appearance. Crack the large claws without mashing them, 
 and with a sharp knife split the body and tail from end to 
 end. The head, which is never eaten, should also be sepa- 
 rated from the body, but laid so near it that the division is 
 almost imperceptible. Dress in any way preferred. 
 
 Deviled Lobster. Procure a live, heavy lobster ; put it in 
 a pot of boiling water, with a handful of salt to it. When 
 done and cold, take out all the meat carefully, putting the 
 fat and coral on separate plates; cut the meat in small 
 pieces, rub the coral to a paste ; stir the fat in it, with a little 
 salt, cayenne, chopped parsley, essence of anchovies, and 
 salad-oil, or melted butter and lemon juice ; cut the back of 
 the lobster-shell in two, lengthwise ; wash clean ; stir the 
 lobster and sauce well together; fill the shells; sprinkle 
 bread-crumbs and a few bits of butter over the top ; set in 
 the oven until the crumbs are brown. 
 
 Stewed Lobster. A middling-sized lobster is best; pick 
 all the meat from the shells and mince it fine ; season with 
 a little salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg ; add three or four 
 of rich gravy m$ a srnall bit pf butter, If ypy 
 
 PpWlfwJs 
 
58 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 have no gravy, use more butter and two spoonfuls of 
 vinegar ; stew about twenty minutes. 
 
 Lobster Salad, see Salads. 
 Lobster Croquettes, see Croquettes. 
 Lobster Sauce, see Sauces. 
 
 Lobster Patties. Proceed as in oyster patties, but use the 
 meat of a cold boiled lobster. 
 
 Terrapins. Put the terrapins into a pot of boiling water, 
 where they must remain until they are quite dead. You 
 then divest them of their outer skin and toe-nails ; and, 
 after washing them in warm water, boil them again until 
 they become quite tender, adding a handful of salt to the 
 water. Having satisfied yourself of their being perfectly 
 tender, take ofF the shells and clean the terrapins very care- 
 fully, removing the sandbag and gall without by any means 
 breaking them. Then cut the meat into small pieces and put 
 into a saucepan, adding the juice which has been given out 
 in cutting them up, but no water, and season with salt, cay- 
 enne, and black pepper to your taste, adding a quarter of 
 a pound of good butter for each terrapin and a handful of 
 flour for thickening. After stirring a short time, add four 
 or five tablespoonfuls of cream, and a half pint of good 
 Maderia to every four terrapins, and serve hot in a deep 
 dish. A very little mace may be added and a large table- 
 spoonful of mustard; just before serving, add the yelks of 
 four hard-boiled eggs. During the stewing, particular 
 attention must be paid to stirring the preparation frequently ; 
 and terrapins cannot possibly be served too hot. 
 
 Mock Terrapin. Take half a calf's I'Ver, season and fry it 
 brown ; chop it into dice, not too small ; flour it thickly, 
 and add a teaspoonful of mixed mustard, a little cayenne 
 pepper, two hard-boiled eggs chopped fine, a lump of but- 
 
FISH, OYSTERS, ETC. 59 
 
 ter the size of an egg, and a teacupful of water. Let it boil 
 a minute or two. Cold veal will do as well as liver. 
 
 Scalloped Crabs. Put the crabs into a kettle of boiling 
 water, and throw in a handful of salt. Boil from twenty 
 minutes to half an hour. Take them from the water when 
 done and pick out all the meat ; be careful not to break the 
 shell. To a pint of meat put a little salt and pepper ; taste, 
 and if not enough add more, a little at a time, till suited. 
 Grate in a very little nutmeg, and add one spoonful of 
 cracker or bread crumbs, two eggs well beaten, and two 
 tablespoonfuls of butter (even full) ; stir all well together ; 
 wash the shells clean, and fill each shell full of the mixture ; 
 sprinkle crumbs over the top and moisten with butter, then 
 bake until nicely browned on top. 
 
 Soft-shell Crabs. Season with pepper and salt; roll in 
 flour, then in egg, then in bread-crumbs, and fry in hot 
 lard. Serve hot with rich condiments. 
 
 Stewed Clams. Chop the clams and season with pepper 
 and salt; put in a saucepan butter the size of an egg, and 
 when melted add a teaspoonful of flour; add slowly the 
 clam liquor and then the clams, and cook three minutes; 
 then add half a pint of cream, and serve. 
 
 Deviled Clams. Chop fifty clams very fine; take two 
 tomatoes, one onion chopped equally fine, a little parsley, 
 thyme, and sweet marjoram, a little salt, pepper, and bread- 
 crumbs, adding the juice of the clams until the mixture is 
 of the consistency of sausage ; put it in the shells with a 
 lump of butter on each ; cover with bread-crumbs, and bake 
 one-half hour. 
 
 Clam Chowder. Forty-five clams chopped, one quart of 
 sliced potatoes, one-half pint sliced onions. Cut a few slices 
 fait pork, fry to a crisp, chop fige, Put in fcettje $ JjjttJe fyl 
 
60 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 from the pork, a layer of potatoes, clams, onions, a little pep* 
 per and salt ; another layer of chopped pork, potatoes, etc., 
 until all are in. Pour over all the juice of the clams. Cook 
 three hours, being careful not to burn. Add a teacupful of 
 milk just before serving. 
 
 Scallops. Wipe dry; dip separately into seasoned egg, 
 then into cracker dust, and fry in hot lard. 
 
 RECIPES INCIDENTAL TO FISH. 
 
 Bread Stuffing for Fish. Take about half a pound of stale 
 bread and soak in water, and when soft press out the water; 
 add a very little chopped suet, pepper, salt, a large table- 
 spoonful of onion minced and fried, and, if preferred, a little 
 minced parsley cook a trifle, and after removing from the 
 fire add a beaten egg. 
 
 Bread Stuffing, No. 2. Bread-crumbs with a little chopped 
 parsley and pork, salt, pepper, and butter. Fill up the fish, 
 sew it closely, then bake. 
 
 Cleaning a Shad. Scale and scrape it carefully; split it 
 down the back and remove the contents, reserving the roc 
 or melt. Wash well and cook as desired. 
 
 Soaking Salt Fish. Very salt fish should be soaked several 
 hours in three or four changes of warm water. Place the 
 skin side up, so that salt crystals may fall away from the 
 under or meat side. Wipe carefully and clean, then soak 
 for an hour in very cold water. 
 
 Fish in Season. As a rule, fish are in best condition just 
 before they spawn, and many are so while they are full of 
 roe, as smelts, mackerel, and shad. As soon as spawning is 
 over, they become unfit for food, some of them becoming 
 positively unwholesome. In season, the flesh is firm and it 
 boils white ; when it boils to a bluish hue, the fish are not 
 in season, or are stale, 
 
IV. POULTRY AND GAME. 
 
 REMARKS ON POULTRY AND GAME HOW TO SELECT, 
 
 PREPARATION FOR BOILING, FOR ROASTING, ETC. THIRTY-ONE 
 RECIPES FOR POULTRY AND GAME. 
 
 POULTRY should invariably be selected young, plump, 
 and well fed, but not too fat. If old and tough, fowls 
 are never as savory when cooked as if they be young 
 and tender. This applies especially to ducks and geese. The 
 flesh of young fowls will be firm and fleshy to the touch, 
 and heavy in proportion to their size ; the skin should be 
 clear, white, and finely grained, the toes pliable and easily 
 broken when bent back, the end of the breast-bone also 
 pliable. All kinds of poultry, turkeys especially, are im- 
 proved by hanging a day or two, unless the weather should 
 be exceedingly sultry. Dark-legged fowls are best for 
 roasting, while the white-legged ones should be chosen for 
 boiling. 
 
 In preparing fowls for boiling, some persons soak fowls 
 an hour or two in skimmed-milk and then sew them in a 
 floured cloth. This tends to preserve them of a nice color, 
 but it may be dispensed with by carefully skimming them 
 while over the fire. 
 
 In dressing poultry, care should be taken not to break the 
 gall ; a thorough cleansing in every part also is necessary. 
 The hairs should be singed off with a well-lighted piece of 
 paper, holding the fowl before a hot fire. All the pin* 
 feathers should be carefully and entirely removed, as also 
 the oil-bag at the end of the back. The legs should be cut 
 off at the first jpint aext tp the feet, The inside should b$ 
 
62 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 washed and rinsed several times in cold water, after every- 
 thing has been removed. Remove extra fat, as it tends to 
 make the gravy greasy. The heart should be slit open 
 and cleansed, also the gizzard, and both should be put by 
 themselves to soak in water. 
 
 Roasted or broiled poultry of all kinds should be thor- 
 oughly cooked and handsomely browned. It is not easy to 
 state exactly the time required for the different sorts to be 
 well done. Experience and practice are the only sure 
 guides. 
 
 RECIPES. 
 
 Roast Turkey. A young turkey, weighing not more than 
 eight or nine pounds, is the best. Wash and clean thor- 
 oughly, wiping dry, as moisture will spoil the stuffing. 
 Take one small loaf of bread grated fine, rub into it a piece 
 of butter the size of an egg, one small teaspoonful of pep- 
 per and one of salt; a sprinkling of sweet marjoram, sum- 
 mer savory, or sage, if liked. Rub all together, and fill the 
 turkey, sewing up so that the stuffing cannot cook out. 
 Always put the giblets under the side of the fowl, so they 
 will not dry up. Rub salt, pepper, and butter on the out- 
 side; put into dripping-pan with one teacupful of water, 
 basting often, turning the fowl till brown all over ; bake 
 about two hours ; take out the giblets and chop fine. After 
 taking out the turkey, put a large tablespoonful of flour into 
 the pan and stir until brown. Put the giblets into a gravy- 
 boat, and pour over them the gravy. 
 
 Boiled Turkey. Stuff the turkey as for roasting. A very 
 nice dressing is made by chopping half a pint of oysters 
 and mixing them with bread-crumbs, butter, pepper, salt, 
 thyme, and wet with milk or water. Baste about the turkey 
 a thin cloth, the inside of which has been dredged with 
 flpur, and put it to boil in cold water with a teaspoonful of salt 
 
POULTRY AND GAME. 63 
 
 in it. Let a large turkey simmer for three hours, skim 
 while boiling. Serve with oyster sauce, made by adding to 
 a cupful of the liquor in which the turkey was boiled the 
 same quantity of milk and eight oysters chopped fine ; sea- 
 son with minced parsley ; stir in a spoonful of rice or wheat 
 flour wet with cold milk ; a tablespoonful of butter. Boil 
 up once and pour into a tureen. 
 
 Boned Turkey. Boil a large turkey in as little water as 
 possible until the meat falls from the bones ; remove all the 
 bones and skin ; pick the meat into small pieces, and mix 
 dark and light together ; season with pepper and salt ; put 
 into a mold and pour over it the liquor, which must be kept 
 warm, and press with a heavy weight. 
 
 Roast Chicken. Having selected your chickens in view of 
 the foregoing hints, proceed, in the matters of cleansing, 
 filling, and preparing for the oven, precisely as directed in 
 the case of roast turkey. As the roasting goes on, baste 
 and turn as may be needful to secure a rich brown all over 
 the fowls. Prepare the gravy as in the former case. 
 
 Stewed Chicken. Clean and cut the chicken into joints ; 
 put it in a saucepan with the giblets ; stew in just enough 
 water to cover it until tender ; season with pepper, salt, and 
 butter ; thicken with flour ; boil up once and serve with the 
 gravy poured over it. 
 
 Broiled Chicken. Only young, tender ehickens are nice 
 broiled. After cleaning and washing them, split down the 
 back, wipe dry, season with salt and pepper, and lay them 
 inside down on a hot gridiron over a bed of bright coals. 
 Broil until nicely browned and well cooked through, watch- 
 ing and turning to prevent burning. If chickens are large, 
 steaming them for one-half hour before placing on the grid- 
 iron will better insure their being cooked through* 
 
64 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 Fricasseed Chickens. Cut them in pieces, and put in the 
 stewpan with salt and pepper ; add a little water, and let 
 them boil half an hour ; thon thicken the gravy with flour ; 
 add butter and a little cream, if you have it. Catsup is an 
 additional relish to the gravy. 
 
 Smothered Chicken. Dress your chickens ; wash and let 
 them stand in water half an hour to make them white ; cut 
 them open at the back; put into a baking-pan, sprinkle 
 salt and pepper over them, putting a lump of butter here 
 and there ; cover tightly with another pan the same size, and 
 bake one hour ; baste often with butter. 
 
 Pried Chicken. Prepare the chicken as for stewing ; dry it, 
 season with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and fry 
 brown in hot butter or lard ; take it out, drain, and serve 
 with Challenge Sauce, or some other savory condiment, or 
 pour into the gravy left in the frying-pan a cup of milk, 
 thicken with flour, add a little butter, and season with Sal- 
 picant; boil once and pour over the chicken, or serve sepa- 
 rately. 
 
 Chickens Fried with Rice. Take two or three chickens, 
 cut them up, and half fry them ; then boil half a pint of rice 
 in a quart of water, leaving the grains distinct, but not too 
 dry ; stir one large tablespoonful of butter in the rice while 
 hot ; let five eggs be well beaten into the rice, with a little 
 salt, pepper, and nutmeg, if the last is liked ; put the chick- 
 ens into a deep dish, and cover with the rice ; brown in an 
 oven not too hot. 
 
 Chicken Pie. Line the sides of a deep pie-dish with a 
 good puff paste. Have your chicken cooked, as for a 
 fricassee, seasoned with salt and pepper and a little chopped 
 parsley. When they are nearly cooked, lay them in a pie^ 
 dish with half a pound of salt pork cut into small squares, 
 
 some of the paste also cut into hatf-inch pieces; pour 
 
POULTRY AND GAME. fl5 
 
 to a part of the chicken gravy, thicken with a little flour, 
 and cover the dish with the paste cover. Cut a hole the 
 size of a dollar in the cover, and cover it with a piece of 
 dough. When baking, remove this piece occasionally and 
 examine the interior. Brush egg over the top crust of the 
 pie, and bake in a quick oven. Should the pie become dry 
 pour in more of the gravy. Pigeon pie or any other bird 
 pie may be made by the above recipe. 
 
 Chicken Pot-pie. Cut and joint a large chicken. Cover 
 with water, and let it boil gently until tender. Season with 
 salt and pepper, and thicken the gravy with two tablespoon- 
 fuls of flour mixed smooth in a piece of butter the size of 
 an egg. Have ready nice, light bread dough ; cut with a 
 biscuit-cutter about an inch thick ; drop this into the boiling 
 gravy, having previously removed the chicken to a hot 
 platter; cover, and let them boil from one-half to three- 
 quarters of an hour. To ascertain whether they are done, 
 stick them with a fork ; if it comes out clean, they are done. 
 Lay them on the platter with the chicken, pour over the 
 gravy, and serve. 
 
 Pressed Chicken. Boil three chickens until the meat comes 
 off the bones ; then, removing all bones, etc., chop, not very 
 fine ; add a piece of butter as large as an egg, salt and pepper 
 to season well. Have about a pint of the broth, into which 
 put one-half box gelatine until dissolved; then put back tha 
 chopped chicken and cook until the broth is evenly ab- 
 sorbed. Press under a weight in a pan until cold. Veal 
 may be treated in a similar manner with very excellent 
 results. 
 
 Jellied Chicken. Boil a chicken in as little water as pos- 
 sible, until the meat falls from the bones ; chop rather fine, 
 and season with pepper and salt ; put in a mold a layer of 
 $ 
 
66 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 the chopped meat, and then a layer of hard-boiled eggs cut 
 in slices ; then layers of meat and egg alternately until the 
 mold is nearly full ; boil down the liquor left in the pot 
 one-half; while warm, add one-quarter of an ounce of gela- 
 tine, and when dissolved pour into the mold over the meat 
 Sit in a cool place over night to jelly. 
 
 Roast Goose and Duck. A goose should always be par- 
 boiled, as it removes the rank taste and makes it more 
 palatable. Clean, prepare, and roast the same as turkey, 
 only adding to the force-meat a large onion chopped fine. 
 Ducks do not require parboiling (unless very old), otherwise 
 they are cooked the same as geese. 
 
 Canvas-back Duck. Having picked, singed, and drawn it 
 well, wipe it carefully, so as to have it clean without wash- 
 ing. Truss it, leaving the head on, to show its quality. 
 Place it in a moderately hot oven for at least three-quarters 
 of an hour ; serve it hot, in its own gravy, on a large chafing- 
 dish. Currant jelly should be on the table. 
 
 Roast Pigeons. Clean, wash, and stuff the same as poultry; 
 lay them in rows in a dripping-pan with a little water. 
 Unless they are very fat, baste with butter until they are 
 half done, afterward with their own gravy. 
 
 Roast Snipe. Clean and truss, but do not stuff Lay in 
 rows in the dripping-pan, sprinkle with salt, and baste well 
 with butter, then with butter and water. When they begin 
 to brown, cut as many slices of bread as there are birds. 
 Toast quickly, butter, and lay in the dripping-pan, a bird 
 upon each. When the birds are done, serve upon the toast, 
 with the gravy poured over it. The toast should lie under 
 them while cooking at least five minutes, during which time 
 the birds should be basted with melted butter seasoned with 
 pepper. The largest snipe will not require above twenty 
 
PO UL TR Y AND GAME. 67 
 
 minutes to roast. Or, dip an oyster in melted butter, then 
 in bread-crumbs, seasoned with pepper and salt, and put in 
 each bird before roasting. Small birds are especially de- 
 licious cooked in this way. 
 
 Roast Partridges, Pheasants, or Quails. Pluck, singe, draw, 
 and truss them ; season with salt and pepper ; roast for about 
 half an hour in a brisk oven, basting often with butter. 
 When done, place on a dish together with bread-crumbs 
 fried brown and arranged in small heaps. Gravy should be 
 served separately in a tureen. 
 
 Quail on Toast. Clean, wash, slit down the back, sprinkle 
 with salt and pepper, and lay them on a gridiron, the inside 
 down. Broil slowly; when nicely browned, butter well. 
 Serve with cream gravy on toast. Omitting the cream, 
 gravy, and toast, you have the ordinary broiled quail. 
 Pigeons, woodcock, and small birds may be broiled in the 
 same manner, and are delicious and nourishing for invalids. 
 
 Fried Rabbit After the rabbit has been thoroughly 
 cleaned and washed, put it into boiling water and let it boil 
 for about ten minutes ; drain, and when cold, cut it into 
 joints; dip into beaten egg, and then into fine bread-crumbs, 
 seasoned with salt and pepper. When all are ready, fry 
 them in butter over a moderate fire fifteen minutes ; thicken 
 the gravy with an ounce of butter and a small teaspocnful 
 of flour. Serve hot. 
 
 Roast Rabbit. Dress nicely and fill with a dressing made 
 of bread-crumbs, a little onion, sage, pepper, and salt, and a 
 small piece of butter ; tie a piece of salt pork over it ; put 
 into a dripping-pan with a little water in a quick oven; 
 baste often ; serve with currant jelly. 
 
 Broiled Steaks of Venison. Heat the gridiron, grease it 
 well, lay on the steaks ; broil quickly, without scorching, 
 
08 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 turning them two or three times; season with salt and 
 pepper. Have butter melted in a well-heated platter, into 
 which lay steaks, hot from the gridiron, turning them over 
 several times in the butter, and serve hot with currant jelly 
 on each steak. It is well to set the platter into another 
 containing boiling water. 
 
 Game or Poultry in Jelly. Take a knuckle of veal weighing 
 two pounds ; a slice of lean ham ; one shallot, minced ; a 
 sprig of thyme and one of parsley ; six pepper-corns (white) 
 and one teaspoonful of salt, with three pints of cold water. 
 Boil all these together until the liquor is reduced to a pint ; 
 strain without squeezing, and set to cool until next day. It 
 should then be a firm jelly. Take off every particle of fat. 
 Then take one package gelatine, soaked in one cupful cold 
 water for three hours ; one tablespoonful of sugar ; two table- 
 spoonfuls strained lemon juice, and two tablespoonfuls of 
 currant jelly, dissolved in cold water, and strained through 
 a muslin cloth. Pour a quart of boiling water over the gela- 
 tine, stir for a moment, add the jellied " stock," and when 
 this is dissolved, add sugar, lemon juice, and coloring. Stir 
 until all are mixed and melted together, and strain without 
 shaking or squeezing through a flannel bag until quite clear. 
 Have ready several hard-boiled eggs, and the remains of 
 roast game, roast or boiled poultry, cut in neat, thin slices, 
 and salted slightly. Wet a mold with cold water, and 
 when the jelly begins to harden, pour some in the bottom. 
 Cut the whites of the eggs in pretty shapes stars, flowers, 
 rings, leaves with a keen penknife, and arrange these on 
 the lowest stratum of jelly, which should be thin, that the 
 forms may be visible. Add more jelly, and on this lay 
 slices of meat, close together. More jelly, and proceed in 
 this order until the mold is full. Set in a cool place to 
 harden, and then turn out upon a flat dish. A mold with 
 mooth, upright sides, te best for this purpose. 
 
POULTRY AND GAM. 69 
 
 RECIPES INCIDENTAL TO POULTRY, GAME, ETC. 
 
 Gravy for Poultry. Boil the giblets very tender; chop fine ; 
 then take the liquor in which they are boiled, thicken with 
 flour ; season with salt, pepper, and a little butter ; add the 
 giblets and dripping in which the turkey was roasted. 
 
 Plain Stuffing. Take stale bread, cut off all the crust, rub 
 very fine, and pour over it as much melted butter as will 
 make it crumble in your hands ; salt and pepper to taste. 
 See also under " Roast Turkey." 
 
 Potato Stuffing. Take two-thirds bread and one-third 
 boiled potatoes grated, butter size of an egg, pepper, salt, 
 one egg ; mix thoroughly. 
 
 Oyster Stuffing. By substituting oysters for potatoes in 
 the above, you have oyster filling. See also under " Boiled 
 Turkey." 
 
 Stuffing for Boiled Chicken. One cupful of bread-crumbs, 
 one tablespoonful of butter, one egg, half a teaspoonful of 
 salt, and one tablespoonful of sweet marjoram. Mix well ; 
 stuff and sew in. 
 
 Capons. Young male fowls, prepared by early gelding, 
 and then nicely fattened, are the finest delicacies in the 
 poultry line. They may be known by a small head, pale 
 comb, which is short and withered, the neck feathers longer 
 than usual, smooth legs, and soft, short spurs. They are 
 cooked as ordinary chickens. 
 
 Keeping Game. Game is rendered more tender, and its 
 flavor is improved by keeping. If wrapped in a cloth satu- 
 rated with equal parts of pyroligneous acid and water, it 
 will keep many days. If in danger of tainting, clean, rub 
 well with salt, and plunge into boiling water, letting it run 
 through them for five minutes ; then hang in a cold place. 
 If tainted, put them in new milk over night. Always hang 
 them up by the neck. 
 
V. MEATS. 
 
 I. BEEF. 
 
 HOW TO SELECT BEEF J CHOICE ROASTING PIECES, STEAKS, BOIL- 
 ING PIECES, SOUP PIECES, ETC. HOW TO ROAST, BROIL, AN 
 BOIL BEEF. NINETEEN RECIPES FOR COOKING BEEF. 
 
 beef may be known by its color. That of a 
 I y deep, healthy red, fine, smooth, open grain, veined 
 with white, being the best. The fat should be oily, 
 smooth, and inclined to white, rather than yellow, as yellow 
 fat is a sure sign of inferior quality. 
 
 The sixth, seventh, and eighth ribs and the sirloin are 
 considered the choicest cuts for roasting. The inside of the 
 sirloin and the rump are the most tender for steaks, though 
 here is a point where individual taste may be exercised. 
 By some epicures what is known as the pin-bone steak is 
 regarded as superior to any other. The round, buttock, 
 shin, or brisket may be boiled or stewed. The neck or 
 shoulder is generally used for soups, gravy, etc. 
 
 In roasting beef it is necessary to have a brisk fire. The 
 roast must be well seasoned with salt and pepper and 
 dredged with flour. Baste it frequently. About fifteen 
 minutes is required for roasting every pound of beef. 
 
 To broil meats well, have the gridiron hot and the bars 
 well greased before putting on the meat. 
 
 In boiling beef, or indeed any fresh meat, plunge it into 
 boiling water, that the outer parts may contract, and so 
 retain the internal juices. Salt meats should be put on in 
 cold water, that the salt may be extracted in the cooking. 
 In boiling meats, it is important to keep the water constantly 
 
 70 
 
MEATS. ft 
 
 boiling, otherwise the meat will absorb the water. Be 
 careful to add boiling water only, if more is needed. Cold 
 water will check the process of cooking and spoil the flavor. 
 Remove the scum as soon as the boiling commences. Allow 
 about twenty minutes boiling for each pound of fresh meat, 
 and from one-half to three-quarters of an hour for all salt 
 meats, except ham, which requires but fifteen minutes to the 
 pound. The more gently all meats boil the more tender 
 they will be. Slow boiling makes meat far better. 
 
 RECIPES. 
 
 Roast Beef. The best roasting-pieces are the middle ribs 
 and the sirloin. The ends of the ribs should be removed 
 from the flank, and the latter folded under the beef and 
 securely fastened with skewers. Rub a little salt into the 
 fat part ; place the meat in the dripping-pan with a pint of 
 stock or water ; baste freely, and dredge with flour half an 
 hour before taking the joint from the oven. Should the 
 oven be very hot, place a buttered paper over the meat to 
 prevent it scorching while yet raw. When the paper is 
 used it will need very little basting. Or, turn the rib side 
 up toward the fire for the first twenty minutes. The time it 
 will take in cooking depends upon the thickness of the joint 
 and the length of time the animal has been killed. Skim the 
 fat from the gravy and add a tablespoonful of prepared 
 brown flour to the remainder. 
 
 Roast Beef with Yorkshire Pudding. Take a large rib 
 roast ; rub salt and pepper over it, and dredge with flour. 
 Place on a rack in a dripping-pan, with very little water, 
 until it is heated thoroughly; baste frequently. When 
 nicely browned on the upper side, turn and baste. About 
 three-quarters of an hour before it is done, take out the 
 meat, pour off most of the dripping, put the batter for the 
 
72 EV2RY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 pudding in the bottom of the pan, allowing the drippings 
 from the beef to drop into it. When the pudding is done, 
 return the meat and finish roasting. Add some hot water 
 t the dripping and thicken with flour for the gravy. 
 
 For the batter of this pudding, take half a cup of butter, 
 three cups of flour, three eggs, one cup of milk, and two 
 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
 
 Beef a la Mode. Take a round of fresh beef, extract the 
 bone, and take away the fat. For a round weighing ten 
 pounds, make a seasoning or stuffing as follows : Half a 
 pound of beef suet ; half a pound of grated bread-crumbs ; 
 the crumbled yelks of three hard-boiled eggs; a little 
 bundle of sweet marjoram, the leaves chopped ; another of 
 sweet basil; four onions minced small; a large tablespoonful 
 of mixed mace and nutmeg powdered. Season lightly with 
 salt and cayenne. Stuff this mixture into the place from 
 whence you took out the bone. Make a number of deep 
 cuts about the meat, and stuff them also. Skewer the meat 
 into a favorable shape, and secure its form by tying it round 
 with tape. Put it into a tin bakepan, and pour over it a 
 pint of port wine. Put on the lid, and bake the beef slowly for 
 five or six hours, or till it is thoroughly done. If the meat 
 is to be eaten hot, skim all the fat from the gravy, into 
 which, after it is taken off the fire, stir in the beaten yelks 
 of two eggs. Minced oysters may be substituted for onions. 
 
 Spiced Beef. Boil a shin of beef weighing ten or twelve 
 pounds, until the meat falls readily from the bones. Pick 
 the meat to pieces, and mash the gristle very fine, rejecting 
 all parts that are too hard to masih. Set away the liquor in 
 which the beef has boiled till it is cold ; then take off all the 
 fat. Boil the liquor down to a pint and a half. Roll a 
 dozen crackers very fine, and add them to the meat. Then 
 return the meat to the liquor, and heat it all. Add salt and 
 pepper to taste, half a teasooonful of cloves, half a teaspoon- 
 
MEATS. 73 
 
 ful of cinnamon, half a teaspoonful 01 parsley chopped fine, 
 and a little powdered nutmeg. Let it boil up once, and put 
 into a mold or deep dish, with a weight adjusted to press 
 it down. When it is entirely cold, cut into thin slices. 
 
 Savory Beet Take a shin of beef from the hind-quarter, 
 saw it into four pieces, put it into a pot, and boil it until the 
 meat and gristle drop from the bones ; chop the meat very- 
 fine,, put it in a dish, and season it with a little salt, pepper, 
 clove, and sage, to your taste ; pour in the liquor in which 
 the meat was boiled, and place it away to harden. Cut in 
 slices and eat cold. 
 
 Minced Beef Cut cold roast beef into thin slices; put 
 Some of the gravy into a stewpan, a bit of butter rolled in 
 flour, pepper and salt, and boil it up Add a little catsup, 
 and put in the minced slices, and heat them through, but do 
 not let it boil. Put small slices of toast in the dish, and 
 cover with the meat. 
 
 Deviled Beef. Take slices of cold roast beef, lay them on 
 hot coals, and broil ; season with pepper and salt, and serve 
 while hot, with a small lump of butter on each piece. 
 
 Curried Beef. Take about two ounces of butter and place 
 them in a saucepan with two small onions cut up into slices, 
 and let them fry till they are of a light brown ; then add a 
 tablespoonful and a half of curry powder, and mix it up 
 well. Now cut up the beef into pieces about an inch 
 Square ; pour in from a quarter to a third of a pint of milk, 
 and let it simmer for thirty minutes ; then take it off and 
 place it in a dish with a little lemon juice. While cooking 
 stir constantly, to prevent burning. Send it to table with a 
 wall of mashed potatoes or rice around it. 
 
 Beef Hash. Chop fine cold steak or roast beef, and cook 
 in a little water ; add cream or milk, and thicken with flour ; 
 season to taste, and pour over thin slices of toast. 
 
74 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 Beef Stew. Cut cold beef into small pieces, and put into 
 cold water ; add one tomato, a little onion, chopped fine ; 
 pepper and salt, and cook slowly ; thicken with butter and 
 flour, and pour over toast. 
 
 Boiled Corned Beet Put four or five pounds of lean corned 
 meat into a pot with plenty of water. The water should be 
 hot. The same care should be taken in skimming as for 
 fresh meat. Allow half an hour for every pound of meat 
 after it has begun to boil. The excellence of corned beef 
 depends very much upon its being boiled gently and long. 
 If it is to be eaten cold, lay it, when boiled, into a coarse 
 earthen dish or pan, and over it a clean board about the 
 size of the meat ; upon this put a heavy weight. Salt meat 
 is much improved by pressing. 
 
 Stewed Shin of Beef. Wash, and set it on to stew in suffi- 
 cient cold water to keep it just covered until done. When 
 it boils, take off the scum, and put an ounce and a quarter 
 of salt to the gallon of water. It is usual to add a few cloves 
 and some black pepper, slightly bruised and tied up loosely 
 in a fold of muslin, two or more onions, a root of celery, a 
 bunch of savory herbs, four or five carrots, and as many 
 turnips, either whole or sliced ; if to be served with the 
 meat, the last two will require a little more than the ordinary 
 time of boiling, but otherwise they may be simmered with 
 the meat from the beginning. Give the beef from four to 
 five hours' gentle stewing, and serve it with part of its own 
 liquor thickened and flavored, or quite plain. 
 
 Boiled Tongne. Soak the tongue over night, then boil four 
 or five hours. Peel off the outer skin and return it to the 
 water in which it was boiled to cool. This will render it 
 juicy and tender. 
 
 Baked Heart Wash carefully and stuff nicely ; roast or 
 bake and serve with gravy, which should be thickened with 
 
MEATS. 75 
 
 some of the stuffing. It is very nice hashed, with a little 
 port wine added. 
 
 Broiled Beefeteak. Have the choice steaks cut three- 
 quarters of an inch thick ; grease the gridiron and have it 
 well heated. Put the steak over a hot, clear fire. When the 
 steak is colored, turn it over, which must be done without 
 sticking a fork into it and thus letting out the juice. It 
 should be quite rare or pink in the centre, but not raw. 
 When cooked sufficiently, lay on a hot platter and season 
 with pepper and salt ; spread over the top some small bits of 
 butter, and serve immediately. Salt extracts the juices of 
 meats in cooking. Steaks ought not to be salted until they 
 have been broiled. 
 
 Beefsteak with. Onions. Take a nice rumpsteak, and pound 
 it with a rolling-pin until it is quite tender ; flour and season ; 
 put it into a frying-pan with hot lard and fry it. When 
 well browned on both sides, take it up and dredge with flour. 
 Have about two dozen onions ready boiled ; strain them in 
 a colander and put them in a frying-pan, seasoning with 
 pepper and salt ; dredge in a little flour, and add a small 
 lump of butter ; place the pan over the fire and stir the 
 onions frequently, to prevent their scorching. When they 
 are soft and a little brown, return the steak to the pan, and 
 heat all together. Place the steak on a large dish, pour the 
 onions and gravy over it, and send to the table hot. 
 
 Beefeteak and Tomatoes. Stew a dozen good-sized tomatoes 
 one hour, with salt and pepper. Then put in a pound of 
 tender beefsteak, cut in small pieces, and boil fifteen min- 
 utes longer. Lay buttered toast in a deep dish, pour on the 
 steak and tomato, and you have a most relishing and 
 healthful dish. 
 
 Staffed Beefeteak Take a rump steak about an inch thick. 
 Make a stuffing of bread and herbs, and spread it over the 
 steak. Roll it up, and with a needle and coarse thread sew 
 
76 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 it together. Lay it in an iron pot on one or two wooden 
 skewers, and put in water just sufficient to cover it. Let it 
 stew slowly for two hours longer if the beef is tough ; 
 serve it in a dish with the gravy turned over it. To be 
 carved crosswise, in slices, through beef and stuffing. 
 
 Beefsteak Pudding. Prepare a good suet crust, and line a 
 cake tin with it; put in layers of steak, with onions, toma- 
 toes and mushrooms chopped, a seasoning of pepper, salt, 
 and cayenne, and half a teacupful of water before closing it, 
 Bake from an hour and a half to two hours, and serve hot. 
 
 II. VEAL. 
 
 CHOOSING VEAL, FOR ROASTING, FOR STEWING; THE HEAD, 
 FEET, KIDNEYS, SWEET-BREADS, ETC.; GENERAL USEFULNESS. 
 TWENTY-ONE RECIPES FOR COOKING VEAL. 
 
 VEAL should be fat, finely grained, white, firm, and not 
 overgrown. When large, it is apt to be coarse and tough, 
 and if too young, it lacks flavor and is less wholesome. 
 it is more difficult to keep than any meat except pork, and 
 should never be allowed to acquire the slightest taint before 
 it is dressed. 
 
 The fillet, the loin, the shoulder, and the best end of the 
 neck, are the parts preferred for roasting ; the breast and 
 knuckle are more usually stewed or boiled. The head and 
 feet of the calf are valuable articles of food, both for the 
 nutriment which the gelatinous parts of them afford, and for 
 the greater variety of modes in which they may be dressed. 
 The kidneys, with the rich fat that surrounds them, and the 
 sweet-breads especially, are well-known delicacies; the 
 liver and the heart also are very good eating ; and no meat 
 t* so generally useful for rich soups and gravies as veal. 
 
MEATS. 77 
 
 The best veal is from calves not less than four, or more 
 than six weeks old. If younger it is not wholesome. If 
 older its character begins to change materially from the 
 calf's use of grasses and other food. 
 
 RECIPES. 
 
 Roast Veal Take a loin or fillet of veal ; make a stuffing 
 as for roast turkey ; fill the flat with the stuffing, and sew it 
 firmly to the loin ; rub the veal with salt, pepper, and flour, 
 and put it into a pan with a little water. While roasting, 
 baste frequently, letting it cook until thoroughly done. 
 Allow two hours for a roast weighing from six to eight 
 pounds. When done, remove the threads before sending 
 to the table ; thicken the gravy with a little flour. Veal 
 should be rather overdone. 
 
 Pot-roasted Fillet. Remove the bone and fill the cavity 
 with a force-meat made of bread-crumbs, a very little salt, 
 pork chopped fine, sage, pepper, salt, and ground cloves. 
 Lay in the pot a layer of slices of salt pork ; put in the fiL 
 let, fastened with skewers, cover with additional pork, pour 
 over it a pint of good stock, cover down close, and let it 
 cook slowly two or three hours ; then take off the cover 
 and let it brown. Serve hot. 
 
 Boiled Fillet A small and delicately white fillet should 
 be selected for this purpose. Bind it round with tape, after 
 having washed it thoroughly ; cover it well with cold water, 
 and bring it gently to a boil ; clear off carefully the scum 
 as it rises, and be veiy cautious not to allow the water to 
 become smoked. Let the meat be gently simmered for three 
 hours and a half to four and a half, according to its weight. 
 Send it to table with rich white sauce. 
 
 Veal Stew. Cut four or five pounds of veal into strips ; 
 peel a dozen large potatoes, and cut them into slices ; place 
 a, layer of sliced salt pork with salt, pepper, sage, and onion 
 
78 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 on the bottom of the pot, then a layer of potatoes, then I 
 layer of the veal nicely seasoned. Use up the veal thus, 
 Over the last layer of veal put a layer of the pork, and 
 over the whole a layer of potatoes. Pour in water till it 
 covers the whole ; cover the pot closely ; heat it rapidly fol 
 a few minutes, and then let it simmer two hours. 
 
 Veal Hash. Take a teacupful of boiling water in a sauce- 
 pan, stir into it an even teaspoonful of flour wet in a table- 
 spoonful of cold water, and let it boil five minutes ; add 
 one-half teaspoonful of black pepper, as much salt, and two 
 tablespoonfuls of butter, and let it keep hot, but not boil. 
 Chop the veal fine and mix with half as much stale bread- 
 crumbs. Put into a pan and pour the gravy over it, then 
 let it simmer ten minutes. Serve this on buttered toast. 
 
 Veal Pie. Line a pudding-dish with good pie crust ; into 
 this put a layer of veal cut into small slices from the neck, 
 or other less valuable part ; make a second layer of hard- 
 boiled eggs sliced thin ; butter and pepper this layer. Add 
 a layer of sliced ham, or salt pork, squeezing a few drops 
 of lemon juice on the ham. Add more veal, as before, with 
 eggs, ham, etc., till the dish is nearly full. Pour over a 
 cupful of stock and cover with a stout crust. Bake in a 
 moderate oven for two hours. 
 
 Veal Pot Pie. Make a crust of a dozen mashed potatoes, 
 two tablespoonfuls of butter, half a teacup of milk or cream, 
 a little salt, and flour enough to stiffen it nicely. Fry half 
 a dozen slices of salt pork, then cut up the veal and boil 
 these together, in but little water, till the veal is almost 
 done. Peel and slice a dozen potatoes quite thin, and roll 
 the dough about half an inch thick and cut it into strips. 
 Now build in your pot a layer of crust, meat, potatoes ; then 
 sprinkle with salt and pepper. Then another set of layers, 
 and top off with crust. Pour on the liquor in which the 
 weat was cooked, and let all simmer for half an hour, or until 
 
MEATS. 73 
 
 the top crust is cooked. Brown the crust by holding over 
 it a red-hot shovel. 
 
 Veal Loa Take a piece of butter the size of an egg, three 
 pounds of raw veal, one heaping teaspoonful of salt, one of 
 pepper, and two raw eggs. Chop the veal fine and mix all 
 together, and put in about two tablespoonfuls of water. 
 Mold this into a loaf, then roll it in eight tablespoonfuls of 
 rolled crackers, and pour over it three tablespoonfuls of 
 melted butter ; place in a pan and bake two hours. To be 
 sliced off when cold, and served at luncheon or tea. 
 
 Veal with Oysters. Cut the veal in small, thin slices, place 
 it in layers in a jar with salt, pepper, and oysters. Pour in 
 the liquor of the oysters, set the jar in a kettle of boiling 
 water, and let it stew till the meat becomes very tender. 
 
 Veal with Rice. Pour over a small knuckle of veal rather 
 more than sufficient water to cover it ; bring it slowly to a 
 boil ; take off all the scum with great care ; throw in a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and when the joint has simmered for about 
 half an hour, throw in from eight to twelve ounces of well- 
 washed rice, and stew the veal gently for an hour and a half 
 longer, or until both the meat and rice are perfectly tender. 
 A seasoning of cayenne and mace in fine powder, with more 
 salt, should it be required, must be added twenty or thirty 
 minutes before they are served. For a superior stew, good 
 veal broth may be substituted for the water. 
 
 Veal with Peas. A quart or more of full-grown green 
 peas, instead of rice, added to the veal, prepared as above, 
 as soon as the scum has been cleared off, will make a most 
 excellent stew. It should be well seasoned with white 
 pepper, and the mace should be omitted. 
 
 Cutlets in Cracker. Pound the cutlet and season, cut the 
 edges into good shape ; take one egg, beat it a little, roll 
 the cutlet in it, then cover thoroughly with rolled crackers. 
 
80 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 Have a lump of butter and lard mixed hot in your skillet \ 
 put in the meat and cook slowly. When nicely browned 
 stir in one spoonful of flour for the gravy ; add half a pint 
 of sweet milk, and let it come to a boil. Salt and pepper. 
 
 Cutlets, Broiled. Trim evenly ; sprinkle salt and pepper on 
 both sides ; dip in melted butter, and place upon the grid- 
 iron over a clear fire; baste while broiling with melted 
 butter, turn over three or four times ; serve with melted 
 butter, or tomato sauce. 
 
 Pressed Veal. Put four pounds of veal in a pot ; cover 
 with water ; stew slowly until the meat drops from the bone, 
 then take out and chop fine ; let the liquor boil down until 
 there is a cupful ; put in a small cupful of butter, a table- 
 spoonful of pepper, a little allspice, and a beaten egg ; stir 
 this through the meat ; slice a hard-boiled egg ; lay in a 
 mold, and press in the meat ; when put upon the table gar- 
 nish with celery tops or parsley. 
 
 Minced Veal. Heat a cupful of well-thickened gravy to a 
 boil ; add two tablespoonfuls of cream or rich milk, one 
 tablespoonful of butter, pepper and salt, parsley to taste, a 
 small onion, and three eggs well beaten. When these are 
 stirred in, add the cold minced meat, salted and peppered. 
 Let it heat thoroughly, but not boil. 
 
 Veal Scallops. Mince the meat very small, and set it over 
 the fire ; season with grated nutmeg, pepper and salt, and a 
 little cream. Then put it into scallop-shells, and cover with 
 crumbs of bread, over which put bits of butter, and brown 
 at a quick fire. Serve hot, with catsup or mushroom sauce. 
 
 Calf's Liver or Heart. Cut the liver in slices, plunge into 
 boiling water for an instant, wipe dry, season with pepper and 
 salt, dredge with flour, and fry brown in lard. Have it per- 
 fectly done. Serve in gravy, made with either milk or water. 
 Calf's heart dressed in this way is also very palatable. 
 
MEATS. gj 
 
 Broiled Sweet-breads. Parboil and blanch the sweet- 
 breads by putting them first into hot water and keeping it 
 at a hard boil for five minutes, then plunging it into ice- 
 cold water somewhat salted. Allow them to lie in this ten 
 minutes, wipe them very dry, and with a sharp knife split in 
 half, lengthwise. Broil over a clear, hot fire, turning when- 
 ever they begin to drip. Have ready upon a deep plate 
 melted butter, well salted and peppered, mixed with catsup 
 or Challenge sauce. When the sweet-breads are done to a 
 fine brown lay them in this preparation, turning them over 
 several times ; cover and set them in a warm oven. Serve 
 on fried bread or toast in a chafing-dish, a piece of sweet- 
 bread on each. Pour on the hot butter and send to table. 
 
 Stewed Sweet-breads. Parboil, blanch, and cut into small 
 pieces ; boil fifteen minutes in milk ; stir into this chopped 
 parsley, a little butter, and cornstarch to thicken. Serve hot. 
 
 Broiled Kidneys. Skin the kidneys carefully, but do not 
 slice or split them. Lay for ten minutes in warm (ngfc hot) 
 melted butter, rolling them over and over, that every part may 
 be well basted. Broil on a gridiron over a clear fire, turn- 
 ing them every minute. Unless very large, they should be 
 done in about twelve minutes. Sprinkle with salt and 
 pepper, and lay on a hot dish, with butter upon each. 
 
 Calf's Tongue. Of all the tongue preparations, calf's 
 tongue is regarded as best. To pickle them, use for each 
 a quarter pound of salt, one ounce of saltpetre, and a quar* 
 ter pound of sugar. Rub the tongues daily with this, allow* 
 ing them to lie in pickle for two weeks, after which they 
 will be ready for smoking or boiling. If used without 
 smoking, they require no soaking, but should simmer sev 
 eral hours till perfectly done, when the skin will peel oft 
 readily. If soaking is needed, lay them first in cold water 
 and then in tepid water for two hours each; then boil tiW 
 done. 
 
 e 
 
EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 III. MUTTON AND LAMB. 
 
 CHOOSING MUTTON AND LAMB, FOR ROASTING, FOR BOILING J 
 CUTLETS, SUITABLE VEGETABLES, ETC. THIRTEEN RECIPES FOR 
 MUTTON AND LAMB. 
 
 THE best mutton is small-boned, plump, finely grained, 
 and short legged ; the lean of a dark, rather than of a 
 bright hue, and the fat white and clear ; when this is 
 yellow, the meat is rank, and of bad quality. The leg and 
 the loin are the desirable joints ; and the preference would 
 probably be given to the latter, but for the superabundance 
 of its fat, which renders it a somewhat wasteful part. 
 
 The parts for roasting are the shoulder, saddle, or chine, 
 the loin, and haunch. The leg is best boiled, unless the 
 mutton is young and very tender. The neck is sometimes 
 roasted, but it is more generally boiled ; the scrag, or that 
 part of it which joins the head, is seldom used for any other 
 purpose than making broth, and should be taken off before 
 the joint is dressed. Cutlets from the thick end of the loin 
 are commonly preferred, but they are frequently taken from 
 the best end of the neck and from the middle of the leg. 
 
 Lamb should be eaten very fresh. In the fore-quarter, the 
 vein in the neck should be blue, otherwise it is stale. In the 
 hind-quarter the fat of the kidney will have a slight odor if 
 not quite fresh. Lamb soon loses its firmness if stale. 
 
 New potatoes, asparagus, green peas, and spinach, are the 
 vegetables to be eaten with roast lamb. 
 
 RECIPES. 
 
 Roast Mutton. Wash the meat well, sprinkle with pepper 
 and salt, dredge with flour, and put in the dripping-pan, 
 with a little water in the bottom. Baste often with the drip- 
 pings, skim the gravy well, and thicken with flour. 
 
MEATS. S3 
 
 Boiled Leg of Mutton. Cut off the shank-bone, trim the 
 knuckle, and wash the mutton ; put it into a pot with salt, 
 and cover with boiling water. Allow it to boil a few min- 
 utes ; skim the surface clean, draw your pot to the side of the 
 fire, and simmer until done. Time, from two to two hours 
 and a half. Do not try the leg with a fork to determine 
 whether it is done. You lose the juices of the meat by so 
 doing. Serve with caper sauce, or drawn butter, well sea- 
 soned. The liquor from this boiling may be converted into 
 soup with the addition of a ham-bone and a few vegetables 
 boiled together. 
 
 Mutton Dressed like Venison. Skin and bone a loin of 
 mutton, and lay it into a stewpan with a pint of water, a 
 large onion stuck with a dozen cloves, half a pint of port 
 wine, and a spoonful of vinegar ; add, when it boils, a little 
 thyme and parsley, and some pepper and salt ; let it stew 
 three hours, and turn it often. Make some gravy of the 
 bones, and add it at intervals to the mutton. 
 
 Broiled Mutton Chops. Trim off a portion of the fat, or the 
 whole of it, unless it be liked ; heat the gridiron, rub it with 
 a bit of the mutton suet, broil over a brisk fire, and turn 
 often until they are done, which, for the generality of eaters, 
 will be in about eight minutes, if the chops are not more 
 than half an inch thick, which they should not be. Add 
 salt and pepper with melted butter, and serve on a hot 
 plate. 
 
 Mutton and Green Peas. Select a breast of mutton not too 
 fat, cut it into small, square pieces, dredge it with flour, and fry 
 to a fine brown in butter ; add pepper and salt, cover it with 
 water, and set it over a slow fire to stew, until the meat is 
 perfectly tender. Take out the meat, skim off all the fat from 
 the gravy, and just before serving add a quart of young 
 peas, previously boiled with the strained gravy, and let the 
 whole boil gently until the peas are entirely done. 
 
84 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 Irish Stew. Blanch three pounds of mutton chops by dip* 
 ping them first in boiling water, for two or three minutes, 
 and then into ice-cold water. Place them on the bottom of 
 a clean stewpan, barely covering them with cold water. 
 Bring them slowly to a boil ; add one teaspoonful of salt ; 
 skim clean ; add a little parsley, mace, and a few pepper- 
 corns. Simmer twenty minutes ; add a dozen small onions 
 whole, and two tablespoonfuls of flour mixed well with cold 
 water. Let it simmer for an hour ; add a dozen potatoes 
 pared and cut to about the size of the onions. Boil till 
 these are done ; then dish, placing the chops around the 
 edge of the plate, and pouring the onions and potatoes into 
 the centre. Strain the gravy, add three tablespoonfuls of 
 chopped parsley, and pour over the stew. 
 
 Boiled Leg of Lamb. Choose a ewe leg, as there is more 
 fat on it ; saw off the knuckle, trim off the flap, and the thick 
 skin on the back of it ; soak in warm water for three hours, 
 then boil gently (time according to size). Serve with oyster 
 sauce. (See Sauces.) 
 
 Roast Lamb. Wash well, season with pepper ana salt, put 
 in the dripping-pan with a little water. Baste often with 
 the dripping ; skim the gravy well and thicken with flour. 
 
 Lamb Stewed in Butter. Select a nice loin, wash well, and 
 wipe very dry ; skewer down the flap, and lay it in a close-shut- 
 ting and thick stewpan, or saucepan, in which three ounces 
 of good butter have been just dissolved, but not allowed to 
 boil ; let it simmer slowly over a very gentle fire for two 
 hours and a quarter, and turn it when it is rather more than, 
 half done. Lift it out, skim, and pour the gravy over it; 
 send to table with brown gravy, mint sauce, and a salad. 
 
 Saddle of Lamb. This is a dainty joint for a small party. 
 Sprinkle a little salt over it, and set it in the dripping-pan, 
 With a few small pieces of butter on the meat; baste it 
 
JIB ATS. 35 
 
 occasionally with tried-out lamb-fat; dredge a little flour 
 over it a few minutes before taking from the oven. Serve 
 with currant jelly and a few choice early vegetables. Mint- 
 sauce may be served with the joint, but in a very mild form. 
 (See Sauces.) 
 
 Broiled Lamb Chops. Trim off most of the fat ; broil over 
 a brisk fire, turning frequently until the chops are nicely 
 browned. Season with pepper and salt, and baste with hot 
 butter. Serve on a buttered dish. 
 
 Breaded Lamb Chops. Grate plenty of stale bread, season 
 with salt and pepper, have ready some well-beaten egg, have 
 a spider with hot lard ready, take the chops one by one, dip 
 into the egg, then into the bread-crumbs ; repeat it, as this 
 will be found an improvement; then lay the chops sep- 
 arately into the boiling lard, fry brown, and then turn. To 
 be eaten with currant jelly. 
 
 Lamb Steaks, Fried. Dip each steak into well-beaten egg, 
 cover with bread-crumbs or corn-meal, and fry in butter or 
 new lard. Mashed potatoes and boiled rice are a necessary 
 accompaniment. The gravy may be thickened with flour 
 and butter, adding a little lemon juice ; pour this hot upon 
 the steaks, and place the rice in spoonfuls around the dish 
 to garnish it. 
 
 IV. PORK. 
 
 PORK REQUIRES CAREFUL CHOOSING; NEEDS THOROUGH COOk 
 ING. NINETEEN RECIPES FOR COOKING PORK. 
 
 T^ORK, more than any other meat, requires to be chosen 
 with the greatest care. The pig, from its gluttonous 
 habits, is particularly liable to disease, and if killed 
 and eaten when in an unhealthy condition, those who par- 
 take of it will probably pay dearly for their indulgencCi 
 Dairy-fed pork is the best. 
 
86 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 If this meat be not thoroughly well-done, it is disgusting 
 to the sight and poisonous to the stomach. " In the gravy 
 of pork, if there is the least tint of redness," says an emi- 
 nent medical authority, " it is enough to appall the sharpest 
 appetite. Other meats under-done may be unpleasant, but 
 pork is absolutely uneatable." 
 
 RECIPES. 
 
 Roast Pig. A fat pig about three weeks old is best for a 
 roast. Wash it thoroughly inside and out ; chop the liver 
 fine with bread-crumbs, onions, parsley, pepper, salt, and 
 potatoes boiled and mashed ; make it into a paste with but- 
 ter and egg. Put this stuffing into the pig and sew it up ; 
 put in a baking-pan with a little water and roast over a 
 bright fire, basting well with butter; rub frequently also 
 with a piece of lard tied in a clean rag. When thoroughly 
 done, lay the pig, back up, in a dish, and put a red apple or 
 pickled-mango in its mouth. Make a dressing with some 
 of the stuffing, with a glass of wine and some of the drip- 
 ping. Serve with the roast pig, and also in a gravy-boat. 
 
 Roast Pork. Choose for roasting, the loin, the leg, the 
 saddle, the fillet, the shoulder, or the spare-rib. The loin 
 of young pork is roasted with the skin on, and this should 
 be scored in regular strips of about a quarter inch wide 
 before the joints are laid to the fire. The skin of the leg 
 also should be cut through in the same manner. This will 
 prevent blistering, and render it more easy to carve. In 
 beginning the roasting the meat should be placed at some 
 distance from the fire, in order that it may be heated through 
 before the skin hardens. The basting should be constant. 
 The cooking must be thorough and the meat well-browned 
 before removed from the fire. 
 
 Roast Spare-rib. Spare-rib should be well rubbed with 
 and pepper before it is roasted. If large and thick, it 
 
MEATS. gf 
 
 f 
 
 will require two or three hours to roast ; a very thin piece 
 may be roasted in an hour. Lay the thick end to the fire. 
 When you put it down to roast, dust on some flour, and 
 baste with a little butter. The shoulder, loin, and chine are 
 roasted in the same manner. 
 
 Leg of Pork Roasted. Parboil a leg of pork, take off the 
 skin, and then roast ; baste with butter, and make a savory 
 powder of finely minced or dried or powdered sage, ground 
 black pepper, salt, and some bread-crumbs rubbed together 
 through a colander ; add to this a little very finely minced 
 onion ; sprinkle the meat with this when it is almost done ; 
 put a half pint of gravy into the dish. 
 
 Baked Pork Tenderloins. Split the tenderloin lengthwise 
 nearly through ; stuff with a filling of bread-crumbs, pep- 
 per, salt, and sweet marjoram. Tie a string around it, to 
 keep the filling in, and bake in a hot oven for half an hour, 
 basting well as the cooking proceeds. 
 
 Pork Cutlets. Cut them about half an inch thick from a 
 delicate loin of pork, trim into neat form, and take off part 
 of the fat, or the whole of it when it is not liked ; dredge a 
 little pepper or cayume upon them, and broil (or fry) over 
 a clear and moderate fire from fifteen to eighteen minutes, 
 sprinkle a little fine salt upon them just before they are 
 dished. They may be dipped into egg and then into bread- 
 crumbs mixed with minced sage, then finished in the usual 
 way. When fried, flour them well, and season with salt and 
 pepper. Serve with gravy made in the pan. 
 
 Boiled Ham. The soaking which must be given to a ham 
 before it is boiled depends both on the manner in which it 
 has been cured and on its age. If highly salted, hard, and 
 old, a day and night, or even longer, may be requisite to 
 open the pores sufficiently and to extract a portion of the 
 salt. The water must be several times changed during the 
 steeping. After the ham has been scraped or brushed as 
 
88 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 clean as possible, pare away lightly any part which may b 
 blackened or rusty. Lay it into a suitable kettle and cover 
 it plentifully with cold water ; bring it very slowly to boil, 
 and clear off the scum, which will be thrown up in great 
 abundance So soon as the water has been cleared from 
 this, draw the pot to the edge of the stove, that the ham 
 may be simmered slowly but steadily, until it is tender. On 
 no account allow it to boil fast. When it can be probed 
 very easily with a sharp skewer, lift it out, strip off the skin, 
 and return the ham to the water to cool. 
 
 Baked Ham. A ham of sixteen pounds must be boiled 
 three hours, then skin and rub in half a pound of brown 
 sugar, cover with bread-crumbs, and bake well for two 
 hours. 
 
 Glazed Ham. Take a cold-boiled ham from which the skin 
 has been removed, and brush it well all over with beaten 
 egg. To a cup of powdered cracker allow enough rich 
 milk or cream to make into a thick paste, salt it, and work 
 in a teaspoonful of melted butter. Spread this evenly, a 
 quarter of an inch thick, over the ham, and set to brown in 
 a moderate oven. 
 
 Ham and Eggs. Cut the ham in very thin slices, and fry 
 long enough to cook the fat, but not long enough to crisp 
 the lean. A very little boiling water may be put into the 
 frying-pan to secure the ham moist and tender. Remove 
 the ham when it is done, break eggs gently into the pan, 
 without breaking the yelks, and fry till done, about three 
 minutes. The eggs will not require to be turned. Cut off 
 the uneaven edges, place the eggs around the ham, and pour 
 in the gravy. 
 
 Ham or Tongue Toast. Toast a thick slice of bread and 
 butter it on both sides. Take a small quantity of remains 
 of ham or tongue, grate it, and put it in a stewpan with two 
 
MEATS. 89 
 
 hard-boiled eggs chopped fine, and mixed with a little but- 
 ter, salt, and cayenne ; heat it quite hot, then spread thickly 
 upon the buttered toast. Serve while hot. 
 
 Broiled Salt Pork. Cut the pork in thin slices. Put a lit- 
 tle water in the pan, and when it has boiled three minutes 
 pour it off; dredge the pork with flour and brown it. 
 
 Bacon Broiled or Fried. Cut evenly into thin slices, or rash- 
 ers; pare from them all rind and rust; curl them round; 
 fasten them with small, slight skewers, then gently fry, broil, 
 or toast them ; draw out the skewers before they are sent to 
 table. A few minutes will dress them either way. They 
 may be cooked without being curled. The slow cooking is 
 necessary that the meat may be well done without being 
 dried or hardened. 
 
 Fried Sausage. Sausages should be used while quite fresh. 
 Melt a piece of butter or dripping in a clean frying-pan ; 
 when just melted, put in the sausages, shake the pan for a 
 minute, and keep turning them ; do not break or prick 
 them ; fry them over a very slow fire till they are nicely 
 browned ; when done, lay them on a hair-sieve before the 
 fire to drain the fat from them. The secret of cooking sau- 
 sages well is to let them heat very gradually. If so done 
 the skins will not burst if they are fresh. The common 
 practice of pricking them lets the gravy out, which is un- 
 desirable. 
 
 Baked Sausages. The most wholesome way to cook sau- 
 sages is to bake them. Place them in a baking-pan in a 
 single layer, and bake in a moderate oven ; turn them over 
 when half done, that they may be equally browned. Serve 
 with pieces of toast between them, having cut the toast 
 about the same size as the sausage, and moistened it with a 
 little of the sausage fat. 
 
 Sausage Meat Many prefer to use sausage meat in bulk. 
 
 
90 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 Small portions of the meat should be packed lightly b> 
 gether and fried slowly until nicely browned. When done, 
 drain through a hair-sieve. Do not pack hard. It will 
 make the sausages tough. 
 
 Scrappel. Boil a hog's head one day, and let it stand five 
 or six hours, or all night. Slip out the bones and chop 
 fine ; then return the meat to the liquor ; skim when cold ; 
 warm and season freely with pepper, salt, sage, and sweet 
 herbs. Add two cupfuls of buckwheat-meal and one cup- 
 ful of corn-meal. Put into molds, and when cold cut into 
 slices and fry for breakfast. 
 
 Boiled Pork The shoulder or leg are regarded as the 
 most economical pieces for boiling. They should be well 
 salted first, by about ten days' pickling. Boil precisely as 
 ham is boiled, but not for so long a time, about three hours 
 sufficing to thoroughly cook an ordinary sized leg of pork. 
 After it has come to the boiling point, let the process pro- 
 ceed slowly as possible. Peel off the skin when done and 
 spot the surface with dashes of red and black pepper, or 
 with allspice, or garnish with parsley. 
 
 Souse. Pigs' feet and ears may be soused by cleaning 
 thoroughly, soaking in salt and water several days, and then 
 boiling till the bones can be picked out with ease and the 
 skin peeled off. Cover the meat and gelatinous substance 
 with boiling vinegar, highly spiced with peppercorns and 
 mace. This may be eaten cold or the meat may be fried 
 after dipping in egg and cracker. 
 
 Pig's head may be prepared the same way, the meat being 
 chopped fine and mixed with pounded crackers. Mix with 
 herbs, spices, salt, and pepper to taste, and a small quantity 
 of vinegar. Press into a mold, or a jar, and cut in slices. 
 To be eaten cold. 
 
VI. VEGETABLES. 
 
 rEGETABLES SHOULD BE FRESH HOW TO WASH AND PRESERVE-- 
 HOW TO COOK WELL, AND IMPORTANCE OF SO DOING SUITABLE 
 POTS FOR COOKING VEGETABLES VEGETABLES SUITABLE TO 
 CERTAIN MEATS. FIFTY-FIVE RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES. 
 
 ALL vegetables should be used when fresh as possible. 
 Wash them thoroughly, and allow them to lie in cold 
 water until ready to be used. 
 
 Great care must be taken to remove gravel and insects 
 from heads of lettuce, cabbage, and cauliflower. To do 
 this, lay them for half an hour or more in a pan of strong 
 brine, placing the stalk ends uppermost. This will destroy 
 the small snails and other insects which cluster in the 
 leaves, and they will fall out and sink to the bottom. 
 
 Strong-flavored vegetables, like turnips, cabbage, and 
 greens, require to be put into a large quantity of water. 
 More delicate vegetables, such as peas, asparagus, etc., 
 require less water. As a rule, in boiling vegetables, let the 
 water boil before putting them in, and let it continue to 
 boil until they are done. Nothing is more indigestible than 
 vegetables not thoroughly cooked. Just when they arc 
 done must be ascertained to a certainty in each particular 
 case, without depending upon any general directions. 
 
 Never let boiled vegetables stand in the water after com* 
 ing off the fire ; put them instantly into a colander over a 
 pot of boiling water, and let them remain there, if you have 
 to keep them back from the table. 
 
 An iron pot will spoil the color of the finest greeks ; they 
 should be boiled by themselves in a tin, brass, or copper 
 vessel. 
 
92 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 Potatoes are good with all meats. Carrots, parsnips, tur- 
 nips, greens, and cabbage belong with boiled meats ; beets, 
 peas, and beans are appropriate to either boiled or roast. 
 
 RECIPES. 
 
 Boiled White Potatoes. Peel off a strip about a quarter of 
 an inch wide, lengthwise, around each potato. Put them 
 on in cold water, with a teaspoonful of salt in it. Let them 
 boil fifteen minutes, then pour off half the water and replace 
 it with cold water. When the edge of the peel begins to 
 curl up they are done. Remove them from the pot, cover 
 the bottom of a baking-tin with them, place them in the 
 oven, with a towel over them, for fifteen minutes, leaving 
 the oven door open. Then serve with or without the skins. 
 
 The use of cold water in boiling potatoes, as in this recipe, 
 is exceptional. Hot water is generally used, but for this 
 purpose cold seems preferable. 
 
 Roasted WMte Potatoes. Select the largest and finest 
 potatoes for roasting. Wash them thoroughly and put in 
 the oven with their skins on. Roast about one hour, turn- 
 ing them occasionally with a fork. When done, send them 
 to the table hot, and in their skins. 
 
 Potatoes Roasted with Meats. To roast potatoes with beef, 
 poultry, and other meats, peel the potatoes, lay them in a 
 pan, and cook them in the gravy. It is quite proper to 
 roast both white and sweet of potatoes in the same pan. 
 
 Mashed Potatoes. Steam or boil pared potatoes until soft, 
 in salted water ; pour off the water and let them drain per- 
 fectly dry ; sprinkle with salt and mash ; have ready hot 
 milk or cream, in which has been melted a piece of butter ; 
 pour this on the potatoes, and stir until white and very light. 
 A solid, heavy masher is not desirable. An open wire tool 
 is much better. 
 
VEGETABLES. S3 
 
 Stewed Potatoes. Take sound raw potatoes, and divide 
 each into four parts, or more, if they be very large. Put 
 them into the stewpan; add salt, pepper, and a piece of 
 fresh butter; pour in milk, with a little cream, just to keep 
 the potatoes from burning. Cover the saucepan, and allow 
 the potatoes to stew until thoroughly soft and tender. 
 
 Fried Potatoes. Boil some good and large potatoes until 
 nearly done; set them aside a few minutes; when suffi- 
 ciently cool, slice or chop them ; sprinkle them with pepper 
 and salt, and fry in butter or fresh lard until they are of a 
 light brown color. Serve hot. 
 
 Saratoga Potatoes. Peel and slice the potatoes on a slaw- 
 cutter, into cold water ; wash them thoroughly, and drain ; 
 spread between the folds of a clean cloth, rub and pat until 
 dry. Fry a few at a time in boiling lard ; salt as you take 
 them out. Saratoga potatoes are very nice when eaten cold. 
 They can be prepared three or four hours before needed, 
 and if kept in a warm place they will be crisp and nice. 
 They may be used for garnishing game and steaks. 
 
 Potato Cakes. Mash thoroughly a lot of potatoes just 
 boiled ; add a little salt, butter and cream ; fry brown on 
 both sides, after making into little cakes. 
 
 Boiled Sweet Potatoes. Take large, fine potatoes, wash 
 clean ; boil with the skins on in plenty of water, but without 
 salt. They will take at least one hour. Drain off the water, 
 and set them for a few minutes in a tin pan before the fire, 
 or in the oven, that they may be well dried. Peel them be- 
 fore sending to the table. 
 
 Roasted Sweet Potatoes. Sweet potatoes are roasted in the 
 same manner as white, but they require a little longer time. 
 
 Fried Sweet Potatoes. Choose large potatoes, half boil 
 them, and then, having taken off the skins, cut the potatoes 
 in slices and fry in butter, or in nice drippings. 
 
94 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 Stewed Tomatoes. Pour boiling water on the tomatoes to 
 be used, and then peel and slice them. Stew them gently, 
 without adding any water, fifteen minutes ; then add some 
 pulverized cracker or bread crumbs, sufficient to thicken it 
 a little, and salt and pepper to your taste. Stew fifteen min- 
 utes longer, and add a large piece of butter. 
 
 The thickening suggested is not essential. Many prefer 
 the pure tomatoes. Try both ways and adopt the more 
 pleasing. 
 
 Broiled Tomatoes. Cut large tomatoes in two, from side to 
 side, not from top to bottom ; place them on a gridiron, the 
 cut surface down ; when well seared, turn them and put on 
 butter, salt, and pepper ; then cook with the skin side down 
 until done. 
 
 Fried Tomatoes. Cut the tomatoes in slices without skin- 
 ning ; pepper and salt them well ; then sprinkle a little flour 
 over them and fry in butter until browned. Put them on a 
 hot platter ; then pour milk or cream into the butter and 
 juice, and when this is boiling hot, pour it over the tomatoes, 
 
 Tomatoes Baked Whole. Select a number of sound, ripe 
 tomatoes. Cut a round hole in the stem side of each, and 
 stuff it with bread-crumbs, nicely peppered and salted ; cover 
 the bottom of the pan with the tomatoes, the opened side 
 upward ; put in a very little water, dredge with flour, and 
 bake till brown. Serve hot. 
 
 Baked Sliced Tomatoes. Skin the tomatoes, slice in small 
 pieces ; spread a thick layer in the bottom of a pudding 
 dish ; cover with a thin layer of bread-crumbs, and sprinkle 
 salt, pepper, and a few small pieces of butter over them ; 
 add another layer of tomatoes, then of crumbs, etc., until 
 the dish is filled ; sprinkle over the top a layer of fine rolled 
 crackers ; bake one hour. Canned tomatoes, put up whole ; 
 may be used nicely this way. 
 
VEGETABLES. 95 
 
 Tomatoes a la Creme. Pare and slice ripe tomatoes ; one 
 pound of fresh ones or a quart can ; stew until perfectly 
 smooth, season with salt and pepper, and add a piece of but- 
 ter the size of an egg. Just before taking from the fire, stii 
 in one cup of cream, with a tablespoonful of flour stirred 
 smooth in a part of it ; do not let it boil after the flour is put 
 in. Have ready in a dish some pieces of toast ; pour the 
 tomatoes over this and serve. 
 
 Boiled Green Corn. Take off the outside leaves and the 
 silk, letting the innermost leaves remain on until after the 
 corn is boiled, which renders the corn much sweeter. Boil 
 for half an hour in plenty of water, drain, and after fully re- 
 moving the leaves, serve. 
 
 Baked Corn. Grate one dozen ears of sweet corn, one cup 
 of milk, a small piece of butter ; salt to taste, and bake in a 
 pudding dish for one hour. 
 
 Corn Fritters, see Fritters. 
 
 Lima Beans. Shell, wash, and put into boiling water; 
 when boiled tender, drain and season them. Dress with 
 cream, or with a large lump of butter, and let the whole 
 simmer for a few moments before serving. 
 
 Snccotash. Take ten ears of green corn and one pint of 
 Lima beans ; cut the corn from the cob, and stew gently 
 with the beans until tender. Use as little water as possible. 
 Season with butter, salt, and pepper milk, if you choose. 
 If a few of the cobs are stewed in the succotash, it will 
 improve the flavor, as there is great sweetness in the cob. 
 
 String Beans. Remove the strings of the beans with a 
 knife, and cut off both ends. Cut each bean into three 
 pieces, boil tender, add butter when they are done, pepper 
 and salt, and serve hot. 
 
 Boiled Beans. Dried beans must soak over night in soft 
 water ; put them in a strong bag, leaving room for them to 
 
96 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 swell ; let them boil in a plenty of water until done ; hang 
 up the bag that all the water may drain off; then season 
 with butter, pepper, and salt to the taste. 
 
 Baked Beans. Put the beans to soak early in the evening, 
 in a dish that will allow plenty of water to be used. Change 
 the water at bed-time. Next morning early, parboil two 
 hours ; pour off nearly all the water ; take raw pork, scored 
 on top ; put the beans in a deep dish, a stoneware jar is very 
 nice, the pork in the middle, sinking it so as to have it just 
 level with the surface. Add half a teaspoonful of soda, two 
 tablespoonfuls of molasses, and bake at least six hours. As 
 the beans bake dry, add more water, a little at a time, until 
 the last hour, when it is not necessary to moisten them. 
 
 Boiled Green Peas. The peas should be young and freshly 
 shelled ; wash and drain them carefully ; put them into fast- 
 boiling, salted water ; when quite tender drain, and add pep- 
 per, butter, and a little milk. Serve hot. 
 
 Boiled Asparagus. Scrape the stems of the asparagus 
 lightly, but make them very clean, throwing them into cold 
 water as you proceed. When all are scraped, tie them in 
 bunches of equal size ; cut the hard ends evenly, that all 
 may be of the same length, and put into boiling water. 
 Prepare several slices of delicately browned toast half an 
 inch thick. When the stalks are tender, lift them out and 
 season with pepper and salt. Dip the toast quickly into the 
 liquor in which the asparagus was boiled, and dish the veg- 
 etable upon it, the points, or the butts, meeting in the cen^ 
 tre of the dish. Pour rich melted butter over it, and send 
 to the table hot. 
 
 Boiled Beets. Wash, but do not cut them, as cutting de^ 
 stroys the sweetness ; let them boil from two to three hours, 
 or until they are perfectly tender ; then take them up, peel 
 and slice them, and pour vinegar, or melted butter, over 
 them, as may be preferred. 
 
VEGETABLES. 97 
 
 Boiled Turnips. Pare and cut into pieces ; put them into 
 boiling water well salted, and boil until tender ; drain thor- 
 oughly and then mash and add a piece of butter, pepper, 
 and salt to taste. Stir until they are thoroughly mixed, and 
 serve hot. 
 
 Boiled Onions. Skin them carefully and put them to boil ; 
 when they have boiled a few minutes, pour off the water, 
 add clean cold water, and then set them to boil again. 
 Pour this away also, and add more cold water, when they 
 may boil till done. This change of waters will make them 
 white and clear, and very mild in flavor. After they are 
 done, pour off all the water, and dress with a little cream, 
 salt, and pepper to taste. 
 
 Pried Onions. Peel and slice fresh, solid onions very 
 evenly, then fry them in a pan of hot butter till slightly 
 browned. 
 
 Boiled Leeks. Trim off the coarser leaves of young leeks, 
 cut them into equal lengths, tie them in small bunches, and 
 boil in plenty of water, previously salted. Serve on toast, 
 and send melted butter to the table with them. 
 
 Boiled Squash. Remove the seeds ; boil till very tender ; 
 then press out all the water through a colander, and mash, 
 with butter, pepper, and salt. 
 
 Pried Squash. Pare the squash, cut in slices, dip in egg 
 seasoned with pepper and salt, then into cracker dust, and 
 fry to a nice brown. 
 
 Boiled Parsnips, Scrape thoroughly, then wash and boil 
 in a little water well salted. When done, dress with butter 
 and a little pepper, or drawn butter, if desired. 
 
 Fried Parsnips. Having boiled your parsnips, split open 
 the largest ones, season with pepper and salt, dredge a little 
 flour over them, and fry to a light brown, j 
 7 
 
98 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 Pried Implant Pare and cut in slices quarter of an incli 
 thick ; sprinkle with salt ; cover and let stand for an hour. 
 Pour off the juice or water which exudes ; wipe each slice 
 dry ; dip first in beaten egg, then in rolled cracker or bread 
 crumbs. Season with pepper and salt, and fry brown in but- 
 ter. Serve very hot. 
 
 Pried Egg-plant No. 2. Put into water and boil until soft, 
 then cut in two and scoop out all the inside ; season ; take 
 a tablespoonful of the remaining pulp at a time, dip in egg 
 and bread-crumbs, and fry in hot lard. Serve hot. 
 
 Baked Egg-plant Boil them till somewhat tender, in order 
 to remove the bitter flavor. Then slit each one down the 
 side, and take out the seeds. Have ready a stuffing made 
 of grated cracker, butter, minced herbs, salt, pepper, nut- 
 meg, and beaten yelk of eggs. Fill with this the cavity left 
 by the seeds, and bake the plants in a hot oven. Serve with 
 well-seasoned gravy poured around them in the dish. 
 
 Boiled Cabbage. Strip off the loose or withered leaves, and 
 wash well ; then split in two, or if the head be very large, 
 into four pieces, and put into boiling water with some salt ; 
 let it boil slowly, skimming carefully and frequently. When 
 done, strain through a colander. Serve in a vegetable-dish 
 and lay inside, among the leaves, some bits of butter ; sea- 
 son with pepper, and serve while hot. 
 
 Boiled Cauliflower. Trim off all the outside leaves ; wrap 
 in a cloth and put into boiling water well salted ; boil until 
 tender, and then serve with drawn butter. 
 
 Cabbage a la Cauliflower. Cut the cabbage fine, as for 
 slaw ; put it into a stewpan, cover with water, and keep 
 closely covered ; when tender, drain off the water ; put in a 
 small piece of butter, with a little salt, one-half a cupful of 
 cream, or one cupful of milk. Leave on the stove a few 
 minutes before serving. 
 
VEGETABLES. 99 
 
 Boiled Spinach. Boil the spinach in plenty of water, drain, 
 and press the moisture from it ; chop it small, put it into a 
 clean saucepan, with a slice of fresh butter, and stir the 
 whole until well mixed and very hot. Smooth it in a dish, 
 and send it quickly to table. 
 
 Boiled Greens. Turnip-tops, mustard-tops, cabbage-leaves, 
 beet-tops, cowslips, dandelions, and various similar articles 
 are much relished in the spring, boiled in salt and water or 
 with salt pork. When done sufficiently they will sink to 
 the bottom. 
 
 Stewed Celery. Clean the heads thoroughly ; take off the 
 coarse, green, outer leaves ; cut the stalks into small pieces, 
 and stew in a little broth ; when tender, add some rich 
 cream, a little flour, and butter enough to thicken the 
 cream. Season with pepper, salt, and a little nutmeg, if 
 that is agreeable. 
 
 Boiled Artichokes. Soak the artichokes and wash them in 
 several waters ; cut the stalks even ; trim away the lower 
 leaves, and the ends of the other leaves; boil in salted 
 water with the tops downward, and let them remain until 
 the leaves can be easily drawn out. Before serving, remove 
 the surrounding leaves, and send the remainder to the table 
 with melted butter. 
 
 Broiled Mushrooms. In order to test mushrooms, sprinkle 
 salt on the gills ; if they turn yellow, they are poisonous ; if 
 they turn black, they are good. When satisfied at this 
 point, pare, and cut off the stems, dip them in melted butter, 
 season with salt and pepper, broil them on both sides over 
 a clear fire, and serve on toast. 
 
 Stewed Mushrooms. Being sure you have the genuine 
 mushrooms, put them in a small saucepan, season with 
 pepper and salt, add a spoonful of butter and a spoonful or 
 two of gravy from roast meat, or, if this be not at hand, the 
 
100 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 same quantity of good, rich cream ; shake them about over 
 the fire, and when they boil they are done. 
 
 Boiled Bice. Wash a cupful of rice in two or three 
 waters ; let it lie for a few minutes in the last water, then 
 put it into three quarts of fast-boiling water, with a little 
 salt ; let it boil twenty minutes, then turn into a colander, 
 drain, and serve, using such sauce or dressing as may be 
 desired. 
 
 Boiled Hominy. Soak one cupful of fine hominy over 
 night in three cupfuls of water, and salt to taste ; in the 
 morning turn it into a quart pail ; then put the pail into a 
 kettle of boiling water, cover tightly, and steam one hour ; 
 add one teacupful of sweet milk, and boil fifteen minutes 
 additional, then serve hot. 
 
 Stewed Macaroni. Break the macaroni into small pieces, 
 wash it, and put into salted hot water ; cook about twenty 
 minutes; drain, and put in a vegetable dish a layer of 
 macaroni, sprinkle with grated cheese, bits of butter, pepper 
 and salt ; proceed in this manner until the dish is full, but 
 omit the cheese at the last. Set the dish in the oven for a 
 few minutes, and let it get thoroughly hot. 
 
 Baked Macaroni. For baked macaroni, proceed as in 
 stewed, but, when prepared fully as above, pour a few 
 spoonfuls of milk over the top, and bake half an hour. 
 
 Macaroni with Tomatoes. Have water boiling in a large 
 saucepan ; throw into it macaroni, broken, but not too short ; 
 let it cook twenty to thirty minutes, pour over it some cold 
 water, and strain it quite dry ; cut an onion into small dice, 
 throw it into cold water and squeeze it dry in a cloth ; put 
 some olive oil, butter, or clarified fat into a saucepan ; the 
 oil, of course, is best. Throw into it the onion, and let it 
 sook, shaking occasionally, until the onion is almost melted 
 away. Have some cooked tomatoes ready to add to this 
 
VEGETABLES. 101 
 
 sauce. If it is too thick, add some cold water by teaspoon- 
 fuls at a time. Let all simmer for ten minutes longer. 
 Sprinkle some grated cheese over your macaroni, which 
 must be piping hot, in a dish. Pour the sauce over this and 
 serve. A quarter of a pound of macaroni makes a large 
 dish, and takes about a third of a can to half a can of 
 tomatoes. 
 
 Sliced Cucumbers. Peel and slice the cucumbers as thin as 
 possible ; lay the slices in salted water for an hour ; then 
 pour off the water ; cover them with vinegar, half a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper, and salt as may be necessary. 
 
 Stewed Oyster-plant Cut off the tops of a bunch of 
 salsify, or oyster-plant, close to the root ; scrape and wash 
 well, and slice lengthwise or round ; stew until tender in 
 salted water ; drain and put in a stewpan, cover with milk ; 
 to one pint of salsify add a tablespoonful of butter rolled in 
 flour ; season with salt and pepper ; let it stew a few min- 
 utes and add a little vinegar, if liked. 
 
 Mock Pried Oysters. Scrape one bunch of salsify, and boil 
 until tender ; mash through a colander, add one beaten egg, 
 a small piece of butter, salt and pepper to taste; drop by the 
 spoonful into hot lard and fry brown. 
 
VII. SALADS AND SAUCES. 
 
 SALADS DEFINED HOW DRESSED, COMBINED, AND SERVED. 
 
 SAUCES DEFINED THEIR USES AND COMPOSITION. HOW TO 
 
 PREPARE INGREDIENTS FOR SALADS, WHAT VEGETABLES TO 
 EMPLOY, FRESHNESS, EXCELLENCE, ETC. FORTY-SIX RECIPES 
 FOR SALADS AND SAUCES. 
 
 T TNDER the head of salads all preparations of uncooked 
 
 II herbs or vegetables is placed. They are usually 
 
 dressed with salt, vinegar, oil, and spices. Sometimes 
 
 they are combined with meat or shell fish, as chicken, veal, 
 
 lobster, etc. They are used chiefly as relishes with other 
 
 food. 
 
 Sauces are generally used to impart a relish to articles 
 of food. Sometimes vegetables are employed as the basis 
 of sauces, but they are compounded chiefly of savory con- 
 diments, that they may add zest to eating. 
 
 Meat or fish used in salads should not be minced, but 
 rather picked apart, or cut in pieces of moderate size. Cab- 
 bage, celery, asparagus, cauliflower, water-cress, and all 
 kinds of lettuce are the vegetables best adapted for use in 
 salads. They must be used when quite fresh and crisp, and 
 all the ingredients used In their dressing must be of the 
 best quality and flavor. 
 
 All condiments are in some sense sauces, but the term is 
 usually confined to those which are the result of compound- 
 ing a variety of articles. 
 
 RECIPES. 
 
 Ooldslaw. With a sharp knife, or, better, with a knife 
 made for the purpose, cut up into fine shavings a firm head 
 of cabbage ; sprinkle with as much salt and pepper as you 
 
 102 
 
SALADS AMD SAVCES. 
 
 deem necessary ; beat up the yelk of one egg, add a lump 
 of butter the size of a walnut, a gill of cream, the same 
 quantity of vinegar, a tablespoonful of sugar, an even tea- 
 spoonful of mustard, and a pinch of bruised celery seed. 
 Heat these condiments together, without boiling, and pour 
 over the sliced cabbage ; then toss it with a fork until thor- 
 oughly mixed. Allow time for it to cool before serving. 
 
 Coldslaw, No. 2. Take equal parts of chopped cabbage 
 and the green stalks of celery. Season with salt, pepper, 
 and vinegar. 
 
 Maryland Coldslaw. Halve the cabbage and lay it in cold 
 water for one hour ; shave down the head into small slips 
 with a sharp knife. Put in a saucepan a cup of vinegar, and 
 let it boil ; then add a cup of cream, with the yelks of two 
 eggs, well beaten ; let it boil up, and pour over the cabbage. 
 As soon as the cabbage is cut it should be sprinkled with a 
 little salt and pepper. 
 
 Salad. Take one head of fine, white cabbage, 
 minced fine ; three hard-boiled eggs ; two tablespoonfuls 
 of salad oil ; two teaspoonfuls white sugar ; one teaspoonful 
 salt ; one teaspoonful pepper ; one teaspoonful made mustard ; 
 one teacupful vinegar. Mix and pour upon the chopped 
 cabbage. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. Take a good-sized head of lettuce and pull 
 the leaves apart. Wash them a moment, then shake off the 
 water and dry the leaves. Examine them carefully, wipe 
 off all grit, and reject those that are bruised. Take the yelks 
 of two hard-boiled eggs ; add one-half teaspoonful of mixed 
 mustard, and mix to a paste with a silver fork ; then add 
 slowly, mixing carefully, about one-half a cup of vinegar, 
 one teaspoonful of sugar, and salt to taste ; cut the lettuce 
 small as may be desired with a sharp knife, and pour the 
 dressing over it ; garnish with hard-boiled eggs. 
 
104 EVER? WOMAN' HER OHW COOK. 
 
 Potato Salad. Steam and slice the potatoes ; add a very 
 little raw onion chopped very fine, and a little parsley, and 
 pour over the whole a nice salad dressing. Serve either 
 warm or cold, as may be preferred. 
 
 Potato Salad, No. 2. Cut up three quarts of boiled potatoes, 
 while hot, into neat pieces ; add a tablespoonful of chopped 
 parsley, a tablespoonful of chopped onion, a teaspoonful of 
 pepper, and one of salt ; also add a cupful of oil, and mix ; 
 then add a cupful of warm stock, a wineglassful of vinegar 
 (from the mixed-pickle bottle) ; mix the ingredients together 
 carefully, and do not break the potatoes any more than is 
 absolutely unavoidable. Set the whole in the ice-box and 
 serve cold. The onion and parsley may be omitted, and 
 boiled root celery added, or a little stalk celery chopped fine. 
 
 CMcken Salad. Boil a small chicken until very tendef. 
 When entirely cold, remove the skin and fat, cut the meat 
 into small bits, then cut the white part of the stalks of celery 
 into pieces of similar size, until you have twice as much 
 celery as meat. Mix the chicken and celery together; pour 
 on Durkee's Salad Dressing, and stir all thoroughly. Cold 
 veal used in place of chicken will also make a very excel- 
 lent salad. 
 
 CMcken Salad, No. 2. Take three chickens, boil until very 
 tender ; when cold, chop them, but not too fine ; add twice 
 the quantity of celery cut fine, and three hard-boiled eggs 
 sliced. Make a dressing with two cups of vinegar, half a 
 cup of butter (or two tablespoonfuls of oil), two eggs 
 beaten, with a large tablespoonful of mustard, saltspoonful of 
 salt, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, tablespoonful of pepper, 
 or a little cayenne pepper ; put the vinegar into a tin pan 
 and set in a kettle of boiling water ; beat the other ingre- 
 dients together thoroughly and stir slowly into the vinegar 
 until it thickens. Cool it and pour over the salad just be* 
 fore serving. 
 
SALADS AND SAUCES. 105 
 
 Lobster Salad. To a three-pound lobster take the yelk of 
 one raw egg beaten very lightly ; then take the yelks of 
 three hard-boiled eggs (cold), and add to the raw yelk, 
 beating all the time ; add, a few drops at a time, one-half 
 bottle of the finest olive oil, stirring all the while ; then add 
 one and a half tablespoonfuls of the best English mustard, 
 salt and pepper to taste ; beat the mixture until light and 
 add a tablespoonful of strong vinegar. Cut the lobster into 
 small pieces and mix with it salt and pepper ; pour over it 
 the dressing just before sending to the table ; garnish with 
 the white of boiled eggs, celery tops, and the small claws. 
 
 Salmon Salad For a pound can of salmon, garnished with 
 lettuce, make a dressing of one small teacupful of vinegar, 
 butter half the size of an egg, one teaspoonful of mustard, 
 one-half teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, one-half teaspoon- 
 ful of salt, one teaspoonful of sugar, two eggs. When 
 cold, add one-half teacupful of cream and pour over the 
 salmon. 
 
 Mixed Mustard. One tablespoonful qf mustard, one tea- 
 spoonful of sugar, one saltspoonful of salt, enough vinegar 
 to blend into a paste. 
 
 Plain Horse-radish is grated and merely covered with sharp 
 vinegar. 
 
 Horse-radish Sance. Take one tablespoonful of grated 
 horse-radish, a dessertspoonful of mustard, half a teaspoonful 
 of sugar ; then add vinegar, and stir it smooth. Serve in a 
 sauce-tureen. 
 
 Tomato Sauce. Stew one-half dozen tomatoes with a little 
 chopped parsley ; salt and pepper to taste ; strain, and when 
 it commences to boil add a tablespoonful of flour, stirred 
 smooth with the same quantity of butter. When it boils it 
 is ready to take up. 
 
106 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 Tomato Sauce, No. 2. Halve the tomatoes and squeeze out 
 the seeds and watery pulp. Stew the solid portions gently 
 with a little gravy or strong broth until they are entirely 
 softened. Strain through a hair sieve and reheat with 
 additional gravy, a little cayenne pepper and salt. Serve hot. 
 
 Green Tomato Sauce. Cut up two gallons of green toma- 
 toes ; take three gills of black mustard seed, three table- 
 spoonfuls of dry mustard, two and a half of black pepper, 
 one and a half of allspice, four of salt, two of celery seed, 
 one quart each of chopped onions and sugar, and two and 
 a half quarts of good vinegar, a little red pepper to taste. 
 Beat the spices and boil all together until well done. 
 
 Chili Sauce. Take ten pounds of ripe tomatoes, peeled 
 and sliced ; two pounds of peeled onions chopped fine ; 
 seven ounces of green peppers finely chopped, without the 
 seeds ; six ounces of brown sugar ; four ounces salt ; a pint 
 and a half of vinegar. Boil all together in a porcelain-lined 
 kettle for several hours, until thick as desired ; put up in 
 tight cans or jars, and use with soups and gravies. 
 
 Celery Sauce. Pick and wash two heads of celery ; cut 
 them into pieces one inch long, and stew them in a pint of 
 water, with one teaspoonful of salt, until the celery is tender. 
 Rub a large spoonful of butter and a spoonful of flour well 
 together ; stir this into a pint of cream ; put in the celery, 
 and let it boil up once. Serve hot with boiled poultry. 
 
 Mint Sauce. Wash the sprigs of mint, let them dry on a 
 towel, strip off the leaves, and chop them very fine ; put in 
 a sauce-boat with a cupful of vinegar and four lumps of 
 sugar; let it stand an hour, and before serving stir all 
 together. Mint sauce, if bottled, will keep a long time, 
 and be just as good, if not better, than when freshly made. 
 
 Asparagus Sauce. Take a dozen heads of asparagus ; two 
 teacupfuls drawn butter; two eggs; the juice of half a 
 
SALADS AND SAUCES. 107 
 
 lemon ; salt and white pepper. Boil the tender heads in a 
 very little salt water. Drain and chop them. Have ready 
 a pint of drawn butter, with two raw eggs beaten into it ; 
 add the asparagus, and season, squeezing in the lemon juice 
 last. The butter must be hot, but do not cook after putting 
 in the asparagus heads. This is a delightful sauce for boiled 
 fowls, stewed fillet of veal, or boiled mutton. 
 
 Mushroom Sauce. Pick, rub, and wash a pint of young 
 mushrooms, and sprinkle with salt to take off the skin. Put 
 them into a saucepan with a little salt, a blade of mace, a 
 little nutmeg, a pint of cream, and a piece of butter rolled in 
 flour ; boil them up and stir till done. 
 
 Caper Sauce. Make a drawn butter sauce, and add two or 
 three tablespoonfuls of French capers ; remove from the fire 
 and add a little lemon juice. 
 
 Cranberry Sauce. Cover a quart of cranberries with water 
 and let it simmer gently till thoroughly cooked. Strain the 
 skins out through a colander, and add to the juice two cup- 
 fuls of sugar ; let it simmer again for fifteen minutes, and 
 pour into a mold previously wet in cold water. 
 
 Strawberry Sauce. Rub half a cupful of butter and one 
 cupful of sugar to a cream ; add the beaten white of an 
 egg and one cupful of strawberries thoroughly mashed. 
 
 Lemon Sauce. One-half a cupful of butter, one cupful of 
 sugar, yelks of two eggs, one teaspoonful of corn-starch. 
 Beat the eggs and sugar until light ; add the grated rind 
 and juice of one lemon. Stir the whole into three gills 
 of boiling water until it thickens sufficiently for the table. 
 
 Lemon Sauce, No. 2. One large tablespoonful of butter, one 
 small tablespoonful of flour, one cupful of sugar, grated 
 rind and juice of one lemon. 
 
108 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 Vanilla Sauce. Put half a pint of milk in a small sauce- 
 pan over the fire; when scalding hot add the yelks of 
 three eggs, and stir until it is as thick as boiled custard ; 
 remove the saucepan from the fire, and when cool add a 
 tablespoonful of extract of vanilla and the beaten whites of 
 two eggs. 
 
 Venison Sauce. Mix two teaspoonfuk of currant jelly, 
 one stick of cinnamon, one blade of mace, grated white 
 bread, ten tablespoonfuls of water ; let the whole stew till 
 thoroughly cooked, when done serve with venison steak. 
 
 Anchovy Sauce. Stir two or three teaspoonfuls of pre- 
 pared essence or paste of anchovy, into a pint of melted 
 butter ; let the sauce boil a few minutes, and flavor with 
 lemon juice. 
 
 Lobster Sauce. Break the shell of the lobster into small 
 pieces. Pour over these one pint of water or veal-stock 
 and a pinch of salt ; simmer gently until the liquid is re- 
 duced one-half. Mix two ounces of butter with an ounce 
 of flour, strain the liquid upon it and stir all, over the fire, 
 until the mixture thickens, but do not let it boil. Add two 
 tablespoonfuls of lobster meat chopped fine, the juice of half 
 a lemon, and serve. 
 
 Oyster Sauce. Strain fifty oysters; put the juice into a 
 saucepan ; add one pint of new milk ; let it simmer, and 
 then skim off whatever froth may rise. Rub a large spoon- 
 ful of flour and two of butter together ; stir this into the 
 liquor ; add a little salt and pepper. Let this simmer five 
 minutes, but do not add the oysters till just as they are to 
 be sent to the table, as oysters much cooked are hard. For 
 turkeys, etc., this is a splendid dressing. 
 
 Plain French Dressing. A plain French dressing is made 
 simply of salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar. Three tablespoon- 
 fuls of oil *o one of vinegar, saltspoon heaping full of salt, 
 an even saltspoonful of pepper mixed with a little cayenne. 
 
SALADS AND SAUCES. 109 
 
 Mayonnaise Sauce. Work the yelks of two raw eggs to a 
 smooth paste, and add two saltspoonfuls of salt, half a salt- 
 spoonful of cayenne, a saltspoonful of dry mustard, and a 
 teaspoonful of oil; mix these thoroughly and add the 
 strained juice of half a lemon. Take what remains of half 
 a pint of olive oil and add it gradually, a teaspoonful at a 
 time, and every fifth teaspoonful add a few drops of 
 lemon juice until you have used two lemons and the half- 
 pint of oil. 
 
 ranaise Sauce, No. 2. Rub the yelks of three hard- 
 boiled eggs with the yelk of one raw egg to a smooth paste ; 
 add a heaping teaspoonful of salt, two saltspoonfuls of 
 white pepper, and two saltspoonfuls of made mustard; 
 mix thoroughly and work a gill of oil gradually into the 
 mixture, alternated with a teaspoonful of vinegar, until you 
 have used three tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Should the 
 sauce appear too thick, add a wineglassful of cream. 
 
 Butter Sauce. Mix well together two tablespoonfuls of 
 butter, some chopped parsley, juice of half a lemon, salt, 
 and pepper. For broiled meat or fish. 
 
 Brown Butter Sauce. Put butter into a frying-pan and let 
 it stand on the fire until very brown ; then add a little pars- 
 ley and fry a moment longer. 
 
 Drawn Butter Sauce. Take one-quarter pound of butter ; 
 rub with it two teaspoonfuls of flour. When well mixed, 
 put into a saucepan with one-half pint of water ; cover it, 
 and set the saucepan into a larger one full of boiling water. 
 Shake it constantly till completely melted and beginning to 
 boil ; season with salt and pepper. 
 
 Boiled Egg Sauce. Add to half a pint of drawn butter 
 sauce two or three hard-boiled eggs, chopped. 
 
110 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 WMte Sauce. Thicken half a pint of new milk with a lit/ 
 tie flour or arrowroot. After it has boiled, stir in slowly 
 about two ounces of fresh butter, cut into small pieces. 
 Continue to stir until the butter is completely dissolved. 
 Add a few thin strips of lemon rind, a little salt, and 
 pounded mace. 
 
 White Sauce, No. 2. Boil a few thin strips of lemon peel 
 in half a pint of good veal gravy just long enough to give 
 it their flavor. Stir in a thickening of arrowroot, or flour 
 and butter ; add salt and a quarter of a pint of boiling 
 cream. 
 
 Cream Sauce. Beat the yelks of three eggs, three table- 
 spoonfuls of white sugar, and vanilla flavor. Turn on it a 
 pint of boiling milk, and stir well. 
 
 Brandy Sauce. Four ounces of sugar and two ounces of 
 butter, well creamed together ; then beat an egg into it, 
 with two ounces of brandy. 
 
 Wine Sauce. Take one pint bowl of white sugar, not 
 quite a quarter of a pound of butter, one glass of wine, one 
 grated nutmeg, and a tablespoonful of warm water ; beat 
 together steadily for half an hour. 
 
 Hard Sauce. One cupful butter, three cupfuls sugar; beat 
 very hard, flavoring with lemon juice ; smooth into shape 
 with a knife dipped into cold water. 
 
 Sauces in General Worcestershire, Challenge, Annear, 
 and other sauces in the market have each their specially good 
 points. Trial of them should be made and the best used. 
 
VIII. CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 
 
 CROQUETTES DEFINED ; FRITTERS DEFINED ; USES OF BOTH. 
 TWENTY-FOUR RECIPES FOR CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 
 
 THE term croquette (pronounced cro-ket) is from a French 
 verb, meaning " to crunch." It designates all that class 
 of preparations made of minced meat, or other in- 
 gredients, highly seasoned and fried in bread-crumbs. 
 
 Fritters, like croquettes, are fried, but they are made of 
 batter containing other ingredients, as taste may dictate. 
 Both these preparations are used as accessories of the din- 
 ner or tea table rather than as principal dishes. 
 
 RECIPES. 
 
 Rice Croquettes. Put a quarter of a pound of rice into a 
 pint of milk. Let it simmer gently until the rice is tender 
 and the milk absorbed. It must then be boiled until thick 
 and dry, or it will be difficult to mold. Add three table- 
 spoonfuls of sugar, one of butter, one egg, and flavor to taste 
 with vanilla or cinnamon ; beat thoroughly for a few minutes, 
 and when cold form into balls or cones, dip these into 
 beaten egg, roll lightly in bread-crumbs, and fry in hot butter. 
 
 Hominy Croquettes. To a cupful of cold boiled hominy 
 (small grained) add a tablespoonful of melted butter and stir 
 hard ; moisten by degrees with a cupful of milk, beating to a 
 soft, light paste. Put in a teaspoonful of white sugar and a 
 well-beaten egg. Roll into oval balls with floured hands, 
 dip in beaten egg, then in cracker-crumbs, and fry in hot 
 lard. 
 
 W 
 
112 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 Potato Croquettes. Season cold mashed potatoes with pep- 
 per, salt, and nutmeg. Beat to a cream, with a tablespoon- 
 ful of melted butter to every cupful of potato. Add two or 
 three beaten eggs and some minced parsley. Roll into small 
 balls; dip in beaten egg, then in bread-crumbs, and fry in 
 hot lard. 
 
 Oyster-Plant Croquettes. Wash, scrape, and boil the oyster- 
 plant till tender ; rub it through a colander, and mix with 
 the pulp a little butter, cream, salt, cayenne, and lemon juice; 
 mix the ingredients thoroughly together to a smooth paste, 
 and set the dish in the ice-box to get cold ; then shape it 
 into small cones, dip them in beaten egg, roll in crumbs, 
 and fry crisp and brown. 
 
 Chicken Croquettes. Add to the quantity of minced chicken; 
 about one-quarter the quantity of bread-crumbs, also one 
 egg well beaten to each cupful of meat ; pepper, salt, and 
 chopped parsley to taste, add the yelks of two hard-boiled 
 eggs rubbed smooth. Add gravy or drawn butter to moisten 
 it, make into cones or balls, roll in cracker-dust or flour, 
 and fry in hot lard. 
 
 Veal Croquettes. Make these the same as chicken cro- 
 quettes, by substituting for the chicken cold minced veal and 
 ham in equal parts. The salt may be omitted, as the 
 ham usually supplies it sufficiently. Turkey, duck, or the 
 remains of any cold game or meat may be used in the same 
 way with very satisfactory results. 
 
 Oyster Croquettes. Take the hard ends of the oysters, leav- 
 ing the other end for a soup or stew ; scald them, then chop 
 fine, and add an equal weight of potatoes rubbed through a 
 colander ; to one pound of this combination add two ounces 
 of butter, one teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pep- 
 per, half a teaspoonful of mace, and one-half gill of cream, 
 make in small rolls, dip them in egg and grated bread, fry 
 in deep, hot lard, 
 
CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 113 
 
 Lobster Croquettes. Chop the lobster very fine ; mix with 
 pepper, salt, bread-crumbs, and a little parsley; moisten 
 with cream and a small piece of butter ; shape with your 
 hands ; dip in egg, roll in bread-crumbs, fry in hot lard. 
 
 Plain Fritters. Take one pint of flour, four eggs, one 
 pint of boiling water, and one teaspoonful of salt. Stir the 
 flour into the boiling water gradually, and let it boil three 
 minutes, stirring constantly. Remove from the fire and 
 stir in the yelks of the eggs, afterward the whites, they hav- 
 ing been well beaten. Drop this batter by large spoon- 
 fuls into boiling lard and fry to a light brown. Serve hot, 
 powdered with white sugar. 
 
 Bread Fritters. Grate stale bread until you have a pint of 
 crumbs ; pour a pint of boiling milk upon these, a table- 
 spoonful of butter having been dissolved in it, and let the 
 whole stand for an hour. Then beat up the mixture and 
 flavor with nutmeg. Stir in gradually a quarter pound of 
 white sugar, two tablespoonfuls of brandy, six well-beaten 
 eggs, and currants enough to flavor the whole. The cur- 
 rants should be washed, dried, and floured. Drop by large 
 spoonfuls into boiling lard and fry to a light brown. Serve 
 with wine and powdered sugar. 
 
 Potato Fritters. Break open four nicely baked potatoes j 
 scoop out the insides with a spoon, and mix with them a 
 wineglassful of cream, a tablespoonful of brandy, two table- 
 spoonfuls of powdered sugar, the juice of one lemon, half a 
 teaspoonful of vanilla extract, and well-beaten yelks of four 
 and the whites of three eggs ; beat the batter until it is quite 
 smooth ; drop large tablespoonfuls of the mixture into boil" 
 ing fat and fry to a light brown ; dust them with powdered 
 sugar and send to table hot. 
 
 Corn Fritters. Scrape twelve ears of corn, mix with twt 
 I 
 
114 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 eggs, one and one-half cups of milk, salt and pepper to taste^ 
 and flour enough to hold all together. Fry in hot fat. 
 
 Hominy Fritters. Two teacupfuls of cold boiled hominy ; 
 stir in one teacupful of sweet milk and a little salt, four table- 
 spoonfuls of sifted flour, and one egg ; beat the white sepa- 
 rately and add last ; drop the batter by spoonfuls in hot lard 
 and fry to a nice brown. 
 
 Bice Fritters. Boil a quarter of a pound of rice in milk 
 till it is tender, then mix it with a pint of milk, two eggs, 
 one cup of sugar, a little salt and cinnamon, and as much 
 flour as will make a thick batter. Fry them in thin cakes 
 and serve with butter and white powdered sugar. 
 
 Parsnip Fritters. Boil four good-sized parsnips in salted 
 water until tender ; drain them, beat them to a pulp, and 
 squeeze the water from them as much as possible ; bind 
 them together with a beaten egg and a little flour. Shape 
 into cakes and fry in hot lard. 
 
 Fruit Fritters. The following recipe will serve for many 
 kinds of fruit or vegetable fritters : Make a batter of ten 
 ounces of flour, half a pint of milk, and two ounces of but- 
 ter ; sweeten and flavor to taste ; stir in the whites of two 
 eggs well beaten ; dip the fruit in the batter and fry. Small 
 fruit and vegetables should be mixed with the batter. 
 
 Apple Fritters. Take one egg, two tablespoonfuls of flour, 
 a little sifted sugar and ginger, with milk enough to make 
 a smooth batter ; cut a good sized apple into slices and put 
 them into the batter. Put them into a frying-pan, with the 
 batter which is taken up in the spoon. When fried, drain 
 them on a sieve and sift on powdered sugar. 
 
 Currant Fritters. Take twocupfuls dry, fine bread-crumbs, 
 two tablespoonfuls prepared flour, two cups of milk, one- 
 half pound currants, washed and well dried ; five eggs 
 
CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. H5 
 
 whipped very light and the yelks strained, one-half cup pow- 
 dered sugar, one tablespoonful butter, one-half teaspoonful 
 mixed cinnamon and nutmeg. Boil the milk and pour over 
 the bread. Mix and put in the butter. Let it get cold. 
 Beat in, next, the yelks and sugar, the seasoning, flour, and 
 stiff whites, finally the currants dredged white with flour. 
 The batter should be thick. Drop great spoonfuls into 
 the hot lard and fry. Drain them and send hot to table. 
 Eat with a mixture of wine and powdered sugar. 
 
 Oyster Fritters. Take one and one-half pints of sweet 
 milk, one and one-fourth pounds of flour, four egg (the yelks 
 having been beaten very thick) ; add milk and flour ; stir 
 the whole well together, then beat the whites to a stiff froth 
 and stir them gradually into the batter ; take a spoonful of 
 the mixture, drop an oyster into it, and fry in hot lard ; let 
 them be a light brown on both sides. 
 
 Clam Fritters. Take a dozen chopped clams, one pint of 
 milk, three eggs. Add liquor from the clams, with salt and 
 pepper, and flour enough to produce thin batter. Fry in 
 hot lard. 
 
 Cream Fritters. Take one cup of cream, the whites of five 
 eggs, two full cups prepared flour, one saltspoonful of nut- 
 meg, a pinch of salt. Stir the whites into the cream in turn 
 with the flour, put in nutmeg and salt, beat all hard for two 
 minutes. The batter should be rather thick. Fry in plenty 
 of sweet lard, a spoonful of batter for each fritter. Drain and 
 serve upon a hot, clean napkin. Eat with jelly sauce. Do 
 not cut them open, but break or pull them apart 
 
 French Fritters. Take two cupfuls of flour, two teaspoon- 
 fuls of baking powder, two eggs, milk enough for stiff 
 batter, and a little salt. Drop into boiling lard and fry light 
 brown. Serve with cream and sugar or sauce. 
 
116 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 Spanish Fritters. Cut stale bread into small, round slices 
 about an inch thick ; soak them in milk, and then dip them 
 into well-beaten egg which has been sweetened to taste. 
 Sprinkle thickly with cinnamon and fry in hot lard. 
 
 Venetian Fritters. Take three ounces of whole rice, wash 
 and drain into a pint of cold milk. Let it come slowly to a 
 boil, stirring often, and let it simmer till quite thick and dry. 
 Add two ounces of powdered sugar, one of fresh butter, a 
 pinch of salt, the grated rind of half a lemon. Let the 
 whole cool in the saucepan, and while still a little warm 
 mix in three ounces of currants, four ounces of chopped 
 apples, a teaspoonful of flour, and three well-beaten eggs. 
 Drop the batter in small lumps into boiling fat, allowing 
 them to fry till the under side is quite firm and brown ; then 
 turn and brown the other side. When done, drain through 
 a hair sieve, and powder with white sugar when about to 
 serve. 
 
IX. EGGS. 
 
 NUTRITIOUS VALUE OF EGGS TEST OF FRESHNESS PACKING EGGS 
 PRESERVING EGGS. TWENTY-EIGHT WAYS OF COOKING EGGS. 
 
 HIGH chemical authorities agree that there is more nutri- 
 ment in an egg than in any substance of equal bulk 
 found in nature or produced by art. They are much 
 used for food the world over, and few articles are capable 
 of more varied employment. 
 
 The freshness of an egg may be determined in various 
 ways. In a fresh egg, the butt end, if touched on the 
 tongue, is sensibly wanner than the point end. If held to- 
 ward the light and looked through (" candled "), a fresh egg 
 will show a clear white and a well-rounded yelk. A stale 
 egg will appear muddled. Probably the surest test is to put 
 the eggs into a pan of cold water. Fresh eggs sink quickly ; 
 bad eggs float; suspicious ones act suspiciously, neither 
 sinking nor floating very decidedly. Of all articles of food, 
 doubtful eggs are most certainly to be condemned. 
 
 On the packing of eggs, the following conclusions may 
 be regarded as established among egg-dealers : By cold 
 storage, temperature forty to forty-two degrees Fahrenheit, 
 kept uniform, with eggs packed properly or in cases, they 
 will keep in good condition from six to nine months ; but 
 they must be used soon after being taken out of the cold 
 storage, as they soon spoil. Eggs become musty from being 
 packed in bad material. They will become musty in cases, 
 as a change of temperature causes the eggs to sweat and 
 the wrapping-paper to become moist and taint the eggs. 
 
 117 
 
118 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK'. 
 
 Well-dried oats, a year old, makes the best packing. Eggs 
 become " mixed " by jarring in shipping. Fresh eggs mix 
 worse than those kept in cold storage. Eggs which have 
 been held in cold storage in the West should be shipped in 
 refrigerator cars in summer. Eggs will keep thirty days 
 longer if stood on the little end than in any other position. 
 They must be kept at an even temperature and in a pur 
 atmosphere. Eggs laid on the side attach to the shell and 
 are badly injured. To prevent imposition as to the freshness 
 of the eggs, the egg gatherers should " candle " them when 
 they get them from the farmers. Eggs keep better in the 
 dark than in the light. 
 
 Methods of preservation for domestic purposes are, to 
 pack them in bran or salt, the small end down ; to grease 
 them with linseed oil, or dip them in a light varnish. For 
 extra long keeping, slack one pound of lime in a gallon of 
 water ; when this is entirely cold, place it in a jar and fill 
 with fresh eggs. Do not agitate the contents when eggs 
 are removed from the jar. Eggs kept so will continue good 
 for a year. 
 
 The French method of preserving eggs is to dissolve 
 beeswax and olive oil and anoint the eggs all over. If left 
 undisturbed in a cool place, they will remain good for two 
 years. 
 
 RECIPES. 
 
 Boiled Eggs. Put into a saucepan of boiling water with a 
 tablespoon, being careful not to break or crack them. Boil 
 steadily three minutes, if you want them soft ; ten, if hard. 
 
 Another way is to put them on in cold water, and let it 
 come to a boil. The inside, white and yelk, will be then of 
 the consistency of custard. 
 
 Still another way is to put them in water, heated to the 
 boiling point, and let them stand from five to seven minutes 
 without boiling. If desired for salad, boil them ten minutes; 
 
EGGS. 
 
 then throw them in cold water ; roll them gently on a table 
 or board, and the shell can be easily removed. Wire egg 
 racks, to set in boiling hot water with the eggs held in place, 
 are exceedingly convenient. 
 
 Boiled Eggs, with Sauce. Boil hard, remove the shell, set 
 in a hot dish, and serve with seasoning and sauce to taste. 
 
 Poached Eggs. Have the water well salted, but do not let 
 it boil hard. Break the eggs separately into a saucer, and 
 slip them singly into the water ; when nicely done, remove 
 with a skimmer, trim neatly, and lay each egg upon a small 
 thin square of buttered toast, then sprinkle with salt and 
 pepper. Some persons prefer them poached rather than 
 fried with ham ; in which case substitute the ham for toast. 
 
 Poached Eggs with Ham Sauce. Mince fine two or three 
 slices of boiled ham, a small onion, a little parsley, pepper, 
 and salt ; stew together for a quarter of an hour ; put the 
 poached eggs in a dish, squeeze over them the juice of a 
 lemon, and pour on the sauce hot but not boiling. 
 
 Poached Eggs a la Creme. Nearly fill a clean frying-pan 
 with water boiling hot ; strain a tablespoonful of vinegar 
 through double muslin, and add to the water with a little 
 salt. Slip your eggs from the saucer upon the top of the 
 water (first taking the pan from the fire). Boil three min- 
 utes and a half; drain, and lay on buttered toast in a hot 
 dish. Turn the water from the pan and pour in half a cup- 
 ful of cream or milk. If you use the latter, thicken with a 
 very little corn-starch. Let it heat to a boil, stirring to pre- 
 vent burning, and add a great spoonful of butter, some pep- 
 per, and salt. Boil up once and pour over the eggs. Or 
 better still, heat the milk in a separate saucepan, that the 
 eggs may not have to stand. A little broth improves the 
 sauce. 
 
120 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 Steamed Eggs. Butter a 'tin plate and break in your eggs 
 set in a steamer ; place over a kettle of boiling water, and 
 steam until the whites are cooked; they are more orna_- 
 mental when broken into patty tins, as they keep their form 
 better ; the whites of the eggs, when cooked in this manner, 
 are tender and light, and not tough and leathery, as if cooked 
 by any other process. 
 
 Eggs in this style can be eaten by invalids, and are very 
 much richer than by any other method. 
 
 Whirled Eggs. Put a quart of water, slightly salted, into 
 a saucepan over the fire, and keep it at a fast boil. Stir 
 with wooden spoon or ladle in one direction until it whirls 
 rapidly. Break six eggs, one at a time, into a cup and drop 
 each carefully into'the centre, or vortex, of the boiling water. 
 If kept at a rapid motion, the egg will become a soft, round 
 ball. Take it out carefully with a perforated spoon, and put 
 it on a slice of buttered toast laid upon a hot dish. Put a 
 bit of butter on the top. Set the dish in the oven to keep 
 warm, and proceed in the same way with another egg, hav- 
 ing but one in the saucepan at a time. When all are done, 
 dust lightly with salt and pepper and send up hot. 
 
 Eggs a la Mode. Remove the skin from a dozen tomatoes, 
 medium size, cut them up in a saucepan, add a little butter, 
 pepper, and salt ; when sufficiently boiled, beat up five or 
 six eggs, and just before you serve, turn them into a sauce* 
 pan with the tomato, and stir one way for two minutes, allow- 
 ing them time to be well done. 
 
 Baked Eggs. Mix finely chopped ham and bread-crumbs 
 in about equal proportions, season with salt and pepper, and 
 moisten with milk and a little melted butter ; half fill your 
 small patty pans with the mixture, break an egg over the 
 top of each, sprinkle with fine bread-crumbs, and bake; 
 serve hot 
 
EGGS. 
 
 Baked Eggs, No. 2. Butter a clean, smooth saucepan, break 
 as many eggs as will be needed into a saucer, one by one, 
 and if found good, slip each into the saucepan. No broken 
 yelk must be allowed, nor must they crowd so as to risk 
 breaking the yelk after put in. Put a small piece of butter 
 on each, and sprinkle with pepper and salt. Set into a well- 
 heated oven, and bake till the whites are set. If the oven 
 is rightly heated, it will take but a few minutes, and the 
 cooking will be far more delicate than fried eggs. 
 
 Eggs snr le Plat. Melt butter on a stone-china or tin plate. 
 Break the eggs carefully into this ; dust lightly with pepper 
 and salt, and put on top of the stove until the whites are 
 well set. Serve in the dish in which they are baked. 
 
 Scrambled Eggs. Put into a frying-pan enough butter to 
 grease it well ; slip in the eggs carefully without breaking 
 the yelks ; add butter, and season to taste ; when the whites 
 begin to set, stir the eggs from the bottom of the pan, and 
 continue stirring until the cooking is completed. The 
 appearance at the end should be marbled, rather than mixed. 
 
 Scrambled Eggs with Ham. Put into a pan, butter, a little 
 pepper and salt, and a little milk ; when hot, drop in the 
 eggs, and with a knife cut the eggs and scrape them from 
 the bottom as the whites begin to set ; add some cold ham 
 chopped fine, and when done, serve in a hot dish. 
 
 Toasted Eggs. Cover the bottom of an earthenware or 
 stone-china dish with rounds of delicately toasted bread, or 
 with rounds of stale bread dipped in beaten egg and fried 
 quickly to a golden-brown in butter or nice dripping. 
 Break an egg carefully upon each, and set the dish imme- 
 diately in front of a glowing fire. Toast over this as many 
 slices of fat salt pork or ham as there are eggs in the dish, 
 holding the meat so that it will fry very quickly and all the 
 dripping fall upon the eggs. When these are well set, they 
 we d<?ne Jura the dish several times while toasting the 
 
122 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 meat, that the eggs may be equally cooked. , Do not send 
 the pork to table, but pepper the eggs lightly and remove 
 with the toast to the dish in which they go to the table. 
 
 Egg Toast. Beat four eggs, yelks and whites, together 
 thoroughly ; put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a sauce- 
 pan and melt slowly ; then pour in the eggs and heat, with- 
 out boiling, over a slow fire, stirring constantly ; add a little 
 salt, and when hot spread on slices of nicely browned toast 
 and serve at once. 
 
 Egg Baskets. Boil quite hard as many eggs as will be 
 needed. Put into cold water till cold, then cut neatly into 
 halves with a thin, sharp knife ; remove the yelk and rub to 
 a paste with some melted butter, adding pepper and salt. 
 Cover up this paste and set aside till the filling is ready. 
 Take cold roast duck, chicken, or turkey, which may be on 
 hand, chop fine and pound smooth, and while pounding 
 mix in the paste prepared from the yelks. As you pound, 
 moisten with melted butter and some gravy which may 
 have been left over from the fowls ; set this paste when done 
 over hot water till well heated. Cut off a small slice from 
 the end of the empty halves of the whites, so they will stand 
 firm, then fill them with this paste ; place them close to- 
 gether on a flat, round dish, and pour over the rest of the 
 gravy, if any remains, or make a little fresh. A few spoon- 
 fuls of cream or rich milk improves this dressing. 
 
 Fricasseed Eggs. Boil six eggs hard ; when cold, slice 
 with a sharp knife. Have ready some slices of stale bread, 
 fried to a nice brown in butter or drippings. Put a cupful 
 of good broth in drawn butter over the fire, season it with 
 pepper, salt, and a trace of onion ; let it come to a boil. 
 Dip the slices of egg first into raw egg, then into cracker 
 dust or bread-crumbs, and lay them gently into the gravy 
 upon the side of the range. Do not let it actually boil, lest 
 the eggs should break, but let them lie thus ia the gravy at 
 
&GGS. 123 
 
 least five minutes. Place the fried bread upon a platter, lay 
 the sliced eggs evenly upon this, pour the gravy over all, 
 and serve hot. 
 
 Curried Eggs. Boil six or eight fresh eggs quite hard, 
 and put them aside until they are cold. Mix well together 
 from two to three ounces of good butter, and from three to 
 four dessertspoonfuls of currie-powder ; shake them in a 
 stewpan, or thick saucepan, over a clear but moderate fire 
 for some minutes, then throw in a couple of mild onions 
 finely minced, and fry gently until they are soft ; pour in by 
 degrees from half to three-quarters of a pint of broth or 
 gravy, and stew slowly until they are reduced to pulp ; mix 
 smoothly a small cup of thick cream with two teaspoonfuls 
 of wheaten or rice flour ; stir them to the currie, and simmer 
 the whole until the raw taste of the thickening is gone. 
 Cut the eggs into half-inch slices, heat them through in the 
 sauce without boiling them, and send to the table as hot as 
 possible. 
 
 Plain Omelet. Beat thoroughly yelks of five eggs, and a 
 dessertspoonful of flour, rubbed smooth in two-thirds of a 
 cupful of milk. Salt and pepper to taste, and add a piece 
 of butter the size of a hickory-nut. Beat the whites to a 
 stiff froth, pour the mixture into the whites, and without 
 stirring pour into a hot, buttered omelet pan. Cook on top 
 of the range for five minutes ; then set pan and all into the 
 oven to brown the top nicely. 
 
 Baked Omelet Beat the yelks of six eggs, and add the 
 whites of three eggs beaten very light ; salt and pepper to 
 taste> and a tablespoonful of flour mixed in a cup of milk. 
 Pour into a well-buttered pan and put into a hot oven ; 
 when thick, pour over it the whites of three eggs beaten 
 light ; then brown nicely, without allowing the top to be* 
 come crusted, Serve 
 
124 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 Omelet a la Mode. Beat the yelks and whites of six eggs 
 separately until light, then beat together and add one table- 
 spoonful of cream. Have in the omelet pan a piece of 
 butter ; when the butter is boiling hot, pour in the omelet 
 and shake until it begins to stiffen, and then let it brown, and 
 season to taste. Fold double and serve hot. 
 
 If a larger omelet is desired, a tablespoonful of milk to 
 each egg may be added, and one teaspoonful of corn-starch 
 or flour to the whole. 
 
 Cheese Omelet Butter the sides of a deep dish and cover 
 with thin slices of rich cheese ; lay over the cheese thin 
 slices of well-buttered bread, first covering the cheese with 
 a little red pepper and mustard; then another layer of cheese ; 
 beat the yelk of an egg in a cup of cream or milk, and pour 
 over the dish, and put at once into the oven ; bake till nicely 
 browned. Serve hot, or it will be tough and hard, but when 
 properly cooked it will be tender and savory. 
 
 Meat or Fish Omelet Make the same as plain omelet. When 
 it is done, scatter thickly over the surface cold, boiled ham, 
 tongue, poultry, fish, or lobster, chopped fine, and season 
 nicely to taste ; slip the broad knife under one side of the 
 omelet and double, inclosing the meat. Then upset the 
 frying-pan upon a hot dish, so transferring the omelet with- 
 out breaking. Or the minced meat may be stirred in after 
 the ingredients are put together, and before cooking. Be 
 careful not to scorch the egg. 
 
 Omelet with Oysters. Allow one egg for each person, 
 and beat yelks and whites separately, very light ; season 
 to taste, and just before cooking add the oysters, which have 
 been previously scalded in their own liquor. 
 
 Sandwiches. Hard boil some fresh eggs, and, when 
 cold, cut them into moderately thin slices, and lay them be- 
 tween slices of bread and butter cut thin, and season well 
 
EGGS. 125 
 
 with celery salt. For picnic parties or for traveling, these 
 sandwiches are very nice. 
 
 Deviled Eggs. Boil the eggs hard, remove the shell, and 
 cut in two as preferred. Remove the yelks, and add to them 
 salt, cayenne pepper, melted butter, and mixed mustard to 
 taste ; then stuff the cavities of the hard whites, and put the 
 halves together again. Serve garnished with parsley. For 
 picnics, etc., each egg can be wrapped in tissue paper to 
 preserve its form. 
 
 Pickled Eggs. Boil the eggs until very hard ; when cold, 
 shell them, and cut them in halves lengthways. Lay them 
 carefully in large-mouthed jars, and pour over them scalding 
 vinegar, well seasoned with whole pepper, allspice, a few 
 pieces of ginger, and a few cloves of garlic. When cold, tie 
 up closely, and let them stand a month. They are then fit 
 for use. With cold meat, they are a most delicious and 
 delicate pickle. 
 
 Egg Balls. Rub the yelks of hard-boiled eggs with the 
 raw yelk of an egg, well beaten, and season to taste. Roll 
 this paste into balls the size of marbles, adding flour if neces- 
 sary to thicken, and boil two minutes. A valuable embel- 
 lishment and enrichment of soups. 
 
X. BREAD, BISCUIT, HOT CAKES, ETC. 
 
 AN immense department is opened up by the title of this 
 chapter; and it is a department of immense im- 
 portance. Bread is confessedly the " staff of life," 
 and, therefore, it should be good. And whatever takes the 
 place of bread, be it biscuits, hot cakes, muffins, or what 
 not, should also be good, or nothing is gained by the 
 exchange. Many a housekeeper can make excellent pies, 
 cakes, etc., but when bread is needed, she flies to the bakery, 
 confessing her total inability to prepare this indispensable 
 commodity. 
 
 But even bread may become distasteful as a steady diet. 
 To vary it with the long line of splendid substitutes which 
 are possible, and which are discussed in this chapter, is a 
 most desirable ability. This department, therefore, is worthy 
 of every housewife's devout study. 
 
 I. BREAD. 
 
 ESSENTIALS TO MAKING GOOD BREAD J HOW TO KNOW GOOD FLOUR ', 
 YEAST ; RAISING BREAD ; BAKING BREAD. TWELVE RECIPES FOR 
 BREAD. 
 
 npHREE things are essential to the making of good bread, 
 namely, good flour, good yeast, and judicious baking. 
 A fourth might be added, experience, without which 
 none of the domestic arts can be successfully carried on. 
 
 In selecting flour, first look to the color. If it is white, 
 with a yellowish straw-color tint, buy it. If it is white, with 
 a bluish cast, or with black specks in it, refuse it. Next, 
 its adhesiveness ; wet and knead a little of it be- 
 
BREAD, BISCUIT, HOT CAKES, ETC. 
 
 tween your fingers ; if it works soft and sticky, it is poor. 
 Then throw a little lump of dried flour against a smooth 
 surface ; if it falls like powder, it is bad. Lastly, squeeze 
 some of the flour tightly in your hand ; if it retains the 
 shape given by the pressure, that too is a good sign. It is 
 safe to buy flour that will stand all these tests. 
 
 Good yeast may easily be obtained in cities, in the form 
 of fresh yeast cakes or at the baker shops. Where access 
 cannot be had to these aids, home-made yeast must be 
 depended on, which see under " Yeast," at the end of this 
 chapter. After the yeast is properly added, the dough must 
 stand several hours in an even temperature of moderate 
 warmth, so that the process of " rising " may go on. This 
 is simply a fermenting, or leavening, or lightening of the 
 dough. If this process, by too much heat or other causes, 
 goes too fast or too far, sour bread is the result ; if it goes 
 too slow, or not far enough, heavy bread is the result. It 
 must go just far enough, and just at the right moment the 
 process must be arrested by baking. The walls of dough 
 which inclose the innumerable vesicles of gas formed in the 
 fermenting are thus made firm around those open spaces, 
 and what we know as " light bread" is secured. 
 
 The baking is the final test in the case. The oven must 
 be just right at the outset, and must be kept so as the 
 operation proceeds. Experience must decide the exact heat 
 required, but an oven in which the bared arm may be held 
 for about half a minute is regarded as approximately 
 correct. 
 
 Hot bread, or hot cake, should always be cut with a hot 
 knife. If so cut, it will not become clammy. 
 
 RECIPES. 
 
 Wheat Bread. Put seven pounds of flour into a breadpan ; 
 hollow out the centre, and add a quart of lukewarm water, 
 & teaspQQnfiii pf ajt, and a wineglassful of yeast Have 
 
128 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 ready more warm water, and add gradually as much as will 
 make a smooth, soft dough. Knead it well, dust a little 
 flour over it, cover it with a cloth, and set it in a warm place 
 four hours ; then knead it again for fifteen minutes and let 
 it rise again. Divide it into loaves, and prick them with a 
 fork, and bake in a quick oven from forty minutes to an 
 hour. 
 
 Potato Bread. Three and one-half quarts of sifted flour, 
 three boiled potatoes, one quart warm water, one teacupful 
 of yeast, one even tablespoonful salt. Mix at night ; put 
 the flour in a large bowl ; hollow a place in the centre for 
 the mashed potatoes, water, and salt. Stir in flour enough 
 to make a smooth batter ; add yeast ; stir in the rest of the 
 flour. Put the dough on the floured board ; knead fifteen 
 minutes, using barely enough flour to prevent sticking. 
 Flour the bowl, lay the dough in it, cover and leave it to 
 rise. In the morning, divide in four parts ; mold into loaves; 
 when light, prick, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 
 Salt Rising Bread. Pour a pint of hot water in a two-quart 
 pail or pitcher on one-half tablespoonful of salt ; when it 
 has cooled a little, add one and one-third pints of flour ; 
 mix well, and leave the pitcher in a kettle of water, as warm 
 as that used for mixing. Keep it at the same temperature 
 until the batter is nearly twice its original bulk, which will 
 be in from five to eight hours. It may be stirred once or 
 twice during the rising. Add to this a sponge made of one 
 quart of hot water, two and one-half quarts of flour adding 
 as much more as may be necessary to make a soft dough ; 
 mix well, and leave in a warm place to rise. When light, 
 mold into loaves, keeping them as soft as possible ; lay in 
 buttered tins. When light again, prick and bake. 
 
 Milk Bread. Let two quarts of milk come to a boil ; stand 
 it aside to cool, and when it becomes tepid, add flour to it 
 gradually until it makes a batter just soft enough to beat up 
 
BREAD, BISCUIT, HOT CAKES, ETC. ] 29 
 
 with a spoon. To this add one cake of compressed yeast 
 thoroughly dissolved in lukewarm water. The batter should 
 then be well beaten. Cover with a towel and set in a warm 
 place to rise. When light, add two tablespoonfuls of salt, 
 one of lard, one of light brown sugar, and flour enough to 
 make a soft dough. Knead steadily for about half an hour. 
 This quantity should make four or five medium-sized loaves. 
 Put them in greased pans and let them rise again. When 
 light, prick with a fork and bake in a quick oven. 
 
 Vienna Bread. The Vienna bread that became so famous 
 on the Centennial Exhibition grounds in 1876 was made on 
 the following recipe : Sift in a tin pan four pounds of flour ; 
 bank up against the sides ; pour in one quart of milk and 
 water, and mix into it enough flour to form a thin batter, 
 and then quickly and lightly add one pint of milk, in which 
 is dissolved one ounce of salt and one and three-quarter 
 ounces of yeast ; leave the remainder of the flour against 
 the sides of the pan ; cover the pan with a cloth, and set in 
 a place free from draught for three quarters of an hour ; 
 then mix in the rest of the flour until the dough will leave 
 the bottom and sides of the pan, and let it stand two and a 
 half hours ; finally, divide the mass into one-pound pieces, 
 to be cut in turn into twelve parts each ; this gives square 
 pieces about three and a half inches thick, each corner of 
 which is taken up and folded over to the centre, and then 
 the cases are turned over on a dough-board to rise for half 
 an hour, when they are put in a hot oven that will bake 
 them in ten minutes. 
 
 Rye Bread. Scald two handfuls of corn-meal with a quart 
 of boiling water, and add a quart of milk and a tablespoonful 
 of salt. When cool, add a teacupful of yeast, and enough 
 rye flour to make it as stiff as wheat-bread dough. After 
 it has risen put it in pans and bake an hour and a half. 
 
 Brown Bread. Take one cup 01 bread-crumbs, one pint of 
 9 
 
130 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 sweet milk, one cup of molasses, butter the size of an egg, 
 one teaspoonful of soda, corn-meal enough to make a stiff 
 batter, with salt to taste. Turn the whole into a buttered 
 basin and steam for two hours ; then bake in a quick oven 
 half an hour. 
 
 Boston Brown Bread. Take three and three-fourth cupfuls 
 of Indian corn-meal, two and one-half cupfuls rye-meal, two- 
 thirds cupful molasses, one quart milk, either sweet or sour ; 
 two even teaspoonfuls soda, dissolved in the milk ; steam in 
 a tin pudding boiler five hours ; take off the cover and set 
 in the oven to brown. 
 
 Corn Bread. Two heaping cupfuls Indian meal, one cup- 
 ful wheat flour, two heaping teaspoonfuls Durkee's baking- 
 powder; mix well together while dry; one teaspoonful salt, 
 two tablespoonfuls white sugar, two eggs, one tablespoonful 
 lard, two and a half cupfuls cold milk ; beat the eggs, melt the 
 lard, and dissolve the salt and sugar in the milk before add- 
 ing them to the flour ; bake in buttered pans in a quick oven. 
 
 Graham Bread. Three quarts of Graham flour ; one quart 
 of warm water; one gill of yeast; one gill of sirup; 
 one tablespoonful of salt; one even teaspoonful of soda. 
 Mix thoroughly and put in well-buttered pans to rise. Bake 
 about an hour and a half. 
 
 This same mixture may be thinned and baked in gem 
 pans for Graham gems. 
 
 Rice Bread. After a pint of rice has been boiled soft, mix 
 it with two quarts of rice flour or wheat flour. When cold, 
 add half a teaspoonful of yeast, a teaspoonful of salt, and 
 enough milk to make a soft dough. When it has risen, 
 bake in small buttered pans. 
 
 Unleavened Bread. Mix wheat flour into a stiff dough 
 With warm water or milk ; add a little lard, or suet, and bake 
 in thin cakes. Bake as soon as mixed, and eat hot. 
 
BREAD, BISCUIT, HOT CAKES, ETC. 
 II. TOAST. 
 
 WHAT TOAST IS GOOD FOR. SIX METHODS OF PREPARING TOAST, 
 
 AS a palatable method of disposing of stale bread, as well 
 as to furnish a variety of agreeable dishes, toast is an 
 important factor in the culinary economy of the home. 
 As a dish for invalids it is indispensible. 
 
 RECIPES. 
 
 Dry Toast is produced by browning stale baker's bread 
 over glowing coals. A toasting fork, or rack, of which 
 there are various patterns, is a great convenience. Do not 
 burn the toast, nor allow it to be so browned as to harden it. 
 It should be eaten hot, as it becomes tough when allowed 
 to cool. 
 
 Buttered Toast For buttered toast, the slices should be 
 thicker than for dry toast. Butter the slices as toasted, and 
 keep warm until served. Excessive buttering should be 
 avoided. - 
 
 Egg Toast On slices of buttered toast lay poached eggs. 
 Serve with Worcestershire sauce for breakfast. 
 
 French Toast Beat three eggs light, add one cupful of 
 milk, with pepper and salt to taste. Dip into this slices of 
 bread, then fry them in hot butter to a delicate brown. 
 
 Milk Toast Toast the bread an even, delicate brown, and 
 pile into a hot dish. Boil milk with a little salt, a teaspoon- 
 ful of flour, and one of butter, rubbed together; pour it over 
 the toast and serve hot. 
 
 Cream Toast Take slices of baker's bread from which 
 the crust has been pared and toast it to a golden brown. 
 Have on the range a shallow bowl or pudding-dish, more 
 than half full of boiling water, in which a tablespoonful of 
 butter has been melted. As each slice is toasted, dip in thi* 
 
132 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 for a second, sprinkle lightly with salt, and lay in the deep 
 heated dish in which it is to be served. Have ready, by the 
 time all the bread is toasted, a quart of milk scalding hot, 
 but not boiling. Thicken this with two tablespoonfuls of 
 corn-starch or best flour ; let it simmer until cooked ; put 
 in two tablespoonfuls of butter, and when this is melted, the 
 beaten whites of three eggs. Boil up once, and pour over 
 the toast, lifting the lower slices one by one, that the creamy 
 mixture may run in between them. Cover closely, and 
 set in the oven two or three minutes before serving. 
 
 III. FANCY BREADS. 
 
 FANCY BREADS AND PLAIN CAKES ; THEIR GENERAL USEFULNESS. 
 EIGHT RECIPES FOR FANCY BREADS. 
 
 SOME special preparations come naturally between bread 
 and cake. For convenient classification, they are 
 grouped here under the title of Fancy Breads, though 
 they might as well be classed as Plain Cakes. They serve 
 a good purpose for variety, for luncheon, etc. See plainer 
 forms of cakes. 
 
 RECIPES. 
 
 Sally Lunn.- One quart of flour, a piece of butter the size 
 of an egg, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, two eggs, two tea- 
 cupfuls of milk, two teaspoonfuls of cream tartar, one of 
 soda, and a little salt. Scatter the cream of tartar, the sugar, 
 and the salt into the flour ; add the eggs, the butter (melted), 
 and one cup of milk ; dissolve the soda in the remaining cup, 
 and stir all together steadily a few moments. Bake in two 
 round pans. 
 
 Sally LtUffl, No. 2. Rub into a quart of flour two teaspoon- 
 fells of baking-powder ; beat together nearly half a cup of 
 
, BISCUIT, ito? CAKES, ETC. 
 
 butter and two tablespoonfuls of sugar ; put into the flour 
 and mix with a pint of milk ; then add two eggs, beaten 
 light. Mix and bake as above. 
 
 Johnny Cake. One quart of buttermilk or sour milk, one 
 quart Indian meal, one quart of flour, one cup of molasses, 
 a teaspoonful of soda, two scant teaspoonfuls if the milk is 
 sour, a teaspoonful of salt. Bake in shallow pans in a quick 
 oven. 
 
 Hoe Cake. Scald one quart of Indian-meal in enough water 
 to make a thick batter ; add a teaspoonful of salt, one of 
 molasses, and two of butter. Bake on a board before a hot 
 fire or in a pan. 
 
 Scotch Short-cake. Two pounds of fine flour, one pound 
 of fresh, sweet butter, half a pound of finest sifted sugar ; 
 throughly knead together without water; roll out to 
 half an inch in thickness, and place it on paper in a shallow 
 pan ; bake very slowly until of proper crispness. The cake, 
 to be good, must be very brittle. 
 
 Pumpkin Bread. Stew and strain a sufficient quantity of 
 pumpkin ; add enough Indian-meal to stiffen it, with yeast 
 and a little salt; when sufficiently raised, bake as in ordi- 
 nary bread. 
 
 Pone, This is a dish prepared by the Indians, called also 
 paune. Take two cupfuls of corn-meal, two of wheat flour, 
 one o sugar, and half a cup of melted butter. Add one 
 egg, one teaspoonful of salt, one of soda, and two of cream 
 of tartar. Mix with enough milk to make a moderately 
 stiff batter, and bake in a hot oven. 
 
 Barley Bread. In Scotland, Norway, and other climates 
 where wheat is not grown, barley bread is used extensively. 
 It is both wholesome and palatable. Mix the barley meal 
 with warm water and a little salt, but no yeast. Mix to a 
 stiff dough, roll into flat cakes, and bake before the fire or 
 in an ^>ven. Eat hot, with butter. 
 
134 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 IV. ROLLS. 
 
 A FAVORITE BREAKFAST DISH. SEVEN VARIETIES OF ROLLS. 
 
 A FAVORITE departure from the ordinary forms ol 
 bread is furnished in rolls. They are exceedingly pop- 
 ular for breakfast, served warm. There are sufficient 
 variations in rolls to make them suitable for use day after 
 day, if this be desired. 
 
 RECIPES. 
 
 Plain Rolls. Boil six potatoes in two quarts of water, and 
 when done pour and press the whole through the colander ; 
 when cool, but not cold, add flour to make a thick batter ; 
 add half a cup of yeast, or one-half cake of compressed yeast, 
 and set to rise ; when light, add half a cup of lard and but- 
 ter mixed, a tablespoonful of sugar, teaspoonful of salt, and 
 flour to make a soft dough ; knead well and set again to 
 rise ; when light, knead down again ; repeat three or four 
 times ; an hour before they are to be used cut in small 
 pieces, roll out, spread with melted butter, and fold over, 
 laying them in a pan so that they will not touch each other ; 
 set them in a warm place, and when light bake quickly. Or, 
 make into an oblong roll without spreading and rolling, and 
 just before putting them into the oven, gash deeply across 
 the top with a sharp knife. 
 
 English Rolls. Two pounds of flour, two ounces of butter, 
 three tablespoonfuls of yeast, one pint of warm milk ; mix 
 well together, and set in a warm place to rise ; knead, and 
 make into rolls ; let them rise again and bake twenty min- 
 utes. 
 
 Breakfest Rolls. One quart of sifted flour, three teaspoon- 
 fuls baking-powder, half teaspoonful salt ; mix well together 
 dry, then add three and half gills of cold milk, or enough 
 to make it the consistency of batter, and drop with a spooa 
 
BREAD, BISCUIT, ftOT CAKES, ETC. 
 
 into gem baking-pans, which should have been previously 
 heated very hot and buttered. 
 
 French Rolls. One pint of milk, scalded ; put into it while 
 hot half a cupful of sugar, and one tablespoonful of butter ; 
 when the milk is cool, add a little salt and half a cupful of 
 yeast, or one cake of compressed yeast ; stir in flour enough 
 to make a stiff sponge, and when light mix as for bread. 
 Let it rise until light, punch it down with the hand, and let 
 it rise again, and repeat this process two or three times ; 
 then turn the dough on to the molding board, and pound 
 with rolling-pin until thin enough to cut. Cut out with a 
 tumbler, brush the surface of each one with melted butter, 
 and fold over. Let the rolls rise on the tins ; bake, and 
 while warm brush over the surface with melted butter to 
 make the crust tender. 
 
 Vienna Rolls. One quart sifted flour, two heaping tea- 
 spoonfuls of a good baking-powder; mix well while dry; then 
 add a tablespoonful of butter or lard, made a little soft by- 
 warming and stirring, and about three-fourths of a pint, or 
 enough cold, sweet milk for a dough of usual stiffness, with 
 about half a teaspoonful of salt dissolved in it. Mix into a 
 dough easily to be handled without sticking ; turn on the 
 board and roll out to the thickness of half an inch, cut it 
 out with a large cake-cutter, spread very lightly with butter, 
 fold one-half over the other, and lay them in a greased pan 
 without touching. Wash them over with a little milk, and 
 bake in a hot oven. 
 
 Parker House Rolls. One teacupful of yeast, or one cake 
 of compressed yeast, a little salt, one tablespoonful sugar, 
 piece of lard size of an egg, one pint milk, flour sufficient to 
 mix. Put the milk on the stove to scald with the lard in it. 
 Prepare the flour with salt, sugar, and yeast. Then add the 
 milk, not too hot. Knead thoroughly, and when mixed set 
 to rise ; when light, knead again slightly. Then roll out 
 
136 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN 
 
 and cut with large biscuit-cutter. Spread a little butter oa 
 each roll and lap together. Let them rise again very light, 
 and bake in a quick oven. 
 
 Geneva Rolls. Into two pounds of flour break three 
 ounces of butter, add a little salt, and make into a sponge 
 with yeast, previously mixed with milk and water. Allow 
 the batter to rise ; then mix in two eggs, made lukewarm 
 by the adding of hot milk, and work the sponge to a light 
 dough. Let it stand for three-quarters of an hour longer ; 
 mold into small rolls ; place them in buttered pans. When 
 light, brush them with beaten yelks of eggs, and bake for 
 twenty minutes or half an hour. Serve hot 
 
 V. BISCUIT, RUSK, AND BUNS. 
 
 SPECIAL CARE REQUISITE IN THIS DEPARTMENT ; ATTENTION TO 
 INGREDIENTS, OVEN, ETC. ; HOW TO BAKE THEM j BAKING-POW- 
 DER BISCUITS, SODA BISCUITS, ETC. j CARE OF PANS. FIFTEEN 
 RECIPES FOR BISCUITS, BUNS, ETC. 
 
 REAT care is requisite in making biscuits that quantities 
 I y be accurately observed and that the ingredients used 
 are of proper quality. Flour should be a few months 
 old. New flour will not make good biscuits. It should 
 always be sifted. 
 
 The oven, too, needs careful attention. On its condition 
 the success of biscuit baking will depend. Rolls and bis- 
 cuit should bake quickly. To make them a nice color, rub 
 them over with warm water just before putting them into 
 the oven ; to glaze them, brush lightly with milk and sugar. 
 
 Baking-powder biscuit and soda biscuit should be made 
 as rapidly as possible, laid into hot pans, and put in a 
 quick oven. Gem pans should always be heated and well 
 greased. 
 
BREAD, BISCUIT, ffOT CAKES, ETC. 
 RECIPES. 
 
 Potato Biscuit. Pare ten potatoes, boil them thoroughly, 
 and mash fine ; add two cups of lukewarm milk, two table- 
 spoonfuls of white sugar, half a cup of yeast, and flour 
 enough to make a thin batter. Mix well and allow it to 
 rise. Then add four tablespoonfuls of melted butter, a little 
 salt, and enough flour to make a soft dough. Let this rise 
 again ; roll into a sheet about an inch thick, and cut into 
 cakes. Set to rise again, and bake in a quick oven. 
 
 Light Biscuit. When kneading bread, set aside a small 
 loaf for biscuits. Into this, work a heaping tablespoonful of 
 lard and butter mixed and a teaspoonful of sugar. The 
 more it is worked the whiter it will be. As it rises, 
 mold it down twice before making into biscuit. Roll out 
 and cut with a biscuit-cutter. The dough should be quite 
 soft. 
 
 Soda Biscuits. One quart of flour, a tablespoonful of but- 
 ter and two of lard, a teaspoonful of salt, and one teaspoon 
 even full of cream of tartar, one teaspoonful of soda ; sift 
 the cream tartar with the flour dry ; rub the butter and lard 
 very thoroughly through it ; dissolve the soda in a pint of 
 milk and mix all together. Roll out, adding as little flour 
 as possible; cut with a biscuit-cutter, and bake twenty 
 minutes in a quick oven. 
 
 Tea Biscuit. Take one quart sifted flour, one tablespoon- 
 ful shortening, half teaspoonful salt, and two teaspoonfuls 
 Durkee's baking-powder ; mix well together dry, then add 
 sufficient cold milk or water to form a very soft dough ; 
 bake immediately in a quick oven. 
 
 Cream Biscuits. Dissolve one teaspoonful of soda in a 
 quart of sour cream, add to it flour sufficient to make a soft 
 dough and a little salt ; or use sour milk, and rub a table-* 
 spoonful of butter into the flour. 
 
138 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 Graham Biscuits. Take one quart of water or milk, butte* 
 the size of an egg, three tablespoonfuls sugar, two of baker's 
 yeast, and a pinch of salt ; take enough white flour to use 
 up the water, making it the consistency of batter cakes ; 
 add the rest of the ingredients and as much Graham flour 
 as can be stirred in with a spoon ; set it away till morning-, 
 in the morning grease the pan, flour your hands ; take a 
 lump of dough the size of a large egg, roll it lightly be- 
 tween the palms, and let the biscuits rise twenty minutes, 
 then bake in a tolerably hot oven. 
 
 Maryland Biscuits. Take three pints of sifted flour, one 
 tablespoonful of good lard, one pint of cold water, salt to 
 the taste; make into a stiff dough ; work it till it cracks or 
 blisters, then break, but do not cut it, into suitable portions, 
 and make into biscuits ; stick the top of each with a fork 
 and bake. 
 
 Yorkshire Biscuits. Make a batter with flour sufficient and 
 one quart of boiling hot milk. When the batter has cooled 
 to lukewarmness, add a teacupful of yeast and a half tea- 
 spoonful of salt. Set to rise again and let it become very 
 light ; then stir in a half teaspoonful of soda, two eggs, and 
 a tablespoonful of melted butter. Add flour enough to 
 make the dough into small, round cakes ; let them rise fifteen 
 minutes, and bake in a slow oven. 
 
 Short Biscuits. Mix one quart of flour with a quarter 
 pound of butter melted in boiling water. Add enough cold 
 milk to make a stiff dough. Work into small biscuits and 
 bake in a quick oven. 
 
 Flavored Biscuits. Biscuit dough made as for Light Bis- 
 cuit may be flavored with any essence, or with lemon or 
 orange peel, as desired. 
 
 Tea Rusk. Three cups of flour, one cup of milk, three- 
 
BREAD, BISCUIT, HOT CAKES, ETC. 
 
 fourths of a cup of sugar, two heaping tablespoonfuls of 
 butter, melted ; two eggs, three teaspoonfuls baking-powder. 
 Let them rise, and bake in a moderate oven. Glaze while 
 hot with white of egg, in which has been stirred, not beaten, 
 a little powdered sugar, or sift the powdered sugar in while 
 the egg is still moist on the top. Rusks should never be 
 eaten hot. 
 
 Sweet Rusk. One pint of warm milk new is best one- 
 half cup of butter, one cup of sugar, two eggs, one tea- 
 spoonful of salt, two tablespoonfuls of yeast ; make a sponge 
 with the milk, yeast, and enough flour to make a thin bat- 
 ter, and let it rise over night. In the morning add the 
 sugar, butter, eggs, and salt, well beaten up together, with 
 enough flour to make a soft dough ; let it rise again ; then 
 work out into round balls, and set to rise a third time. Bake 
 in a moderate oven. 
 
 Buns. One cupful of warm water, one cupful of sweet milk, 
 yeast and sugar, with flour enough to make a stiff batter ; 
 let this rise over night ; in the morning add a cupful of 
 sugar, a cupful of raisins or currants, mold well ; let it rise till 
 light, then make into buns ; rise again till very light, and 
 bake. Use any spice desired. 
 
 Hot Cross Buns. Three cupfuls sweet milk ; one cupful of 
 yeast ; flour to make thick batter. Set this as a sponge over 
 night. In the morning add one cupful of sugar ; one-half 
 cupful butter, melted ; half a nutmeg ; one saltspoonful salt, 
 and flour enough to roll out like biscuit. Knead well, and 
 set to rise five hours. Roll half an inch thick, cut into 
 round cakes, and lay in rows in a buttered baking-pan. 
 When they have stood half an hour, make a cross upon 
 each with a knife, and put instantly into the oven. Bake to 
 a light brown, and brush over with a feather or soft bit of 
 rag, dipped in the white of an egg beaten up stiff with white 
 sugar. 
 
140 EVERY WOMAN HER OWNJWOK. 
 
 Pop Overs. Mix four cupfuls of flour, four cupfuls 4A 
 milk, four eggs, and a little salt. This quantity will make 
 about twenty puffs in gem-pans, which must be baked quick 
 and done to . nice brown. 
 
 VI. MUFFINS AND WAFFLES. 
 
 HOW MUFFINS AND WAFFLES DIFFER ; THEIR RELATION TO OTHER 
 KINDRED PREPARATIONS; MUFFIN-RINGS AND WAFFLE-IRON^ 
 
 WHEN TO USE MUFFINS AND WAFFLES ; HOW TO SERVE THEBf. 
 ELEVEN RECIPES FOR MUFFINS AND WAFFLES. 
 
 MUFFINS are baked in rings on a griddle, or in gem- 
 pans, over a quick fire. Waffles are baked in waffle- 
 irons, which inclose the batter and imprint both sides 
 of the cake as it rises in the process of baking. Both muf- 
 fins and waffles form a medium between bread and biscuits 
 on the one side and griddle-cakes on the other. Muffin- 
 rings were formerly about four inches in diameter, but now, 
 with better taste, they are used much smaller. The approved 
 waffle-irons of to-day are circular, baking four waffles at 
 once, and suspended on a pivot that permits them to be 
 turned with a touch of the fork. Both muffins and waffles 
 are suitable for tea, and with stewed chicken and such deli- 
 cacies they are really delicious. They should always be 
 served hot and with the best of butter. Waffles and catfish 
 are a famous dish at some eating-houses. 
 
 RECIPES. 
 
 Muffins. Two eggs lightly beaten, one quart of flour, one 
 teaspoonful of salt, three teaspoonfuls of Durkee's baking- 
 powder, one tablespoonful of melted butter, one pint of 
 milk, and two teaspoonfuls of vanilla extract, if liked. 
 Beat up quickly to the consistency of a cake batter ; bake in 
 buttered gem-pans in a hot oven. 
 
BREAD, BISCUIT, HOT CAKES, ETC. 
 
 Muffins, No. 2. One cup of home-made yeast or half of a 
 compressed yeast cake, one pint of sweet milk, two eggs, 
 two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, two tablespoonfuls of 
 sugar. Beat the butter, sugar, and eggs well together ; then 
 stir in the milk, slightly warmed, and thicken with flour to 
 the consistency of griddle-cakes. When light, bake in muffin- 
 rings or on a griddle. If wanted for tea, the batter should 
 be mixed immediately after breakfast. Muffins should never 
 be cut with a knife, but be pulled open with the fingers. 
 
 Rice Muffins. Take one quart of sour milk, three well- 
 beaten eggs, a little salt, a teaspoonful of soda, and enough 
 of rice flour to thicken to a stiff batter. Bake in rings. 
 
 Hominy Muffins. Substitute hominy, well cooked and 
 mashed, for the rice, and proceed as above. 
 
 Bread Muffins. Cut the crust off four thick slices of bread ; 
 put them in a pan and pour on them just enough boiling 
 water to soak them thoroughly. Let them stand an hour, 
 covered ; then drain off the water and stir the bread to a 
 smooth paste. Stir in two tablespoonfuls of flour, a half 
 pint of milk, and three well-beaten eggs. Bake to a delicate 
 brown in well-buttered muffin-rings. 
 
 Graham Muffins. One quart of Graham flour, two tea- 
 spoonfuls of baking-powder, a piece of butter the size of a 
 walnut, one egg, one tablespoonful of sugar, one-half tea~ 
 spoonful of salt, milk enough to make a batter as thick as 
 for griddle-cakes. Bake in gem-pans or muffin-rings in a 
 hot oven. 
 
 Corn Muffins. Mix two cupfuls of corn-meal, two cupfuls 
 of flour, one cupful of sugar, half a cupful of melted butter, 
 two eggs, and one teaspoonful of salt. Dissolve one tea- 
 spoonful of soda and two of cream tartar in a little milk, and 
 beat it through. Add milk enough to make a moderately 
 batter, and bake in rings or gem-pans. 
 
142 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 Crumpets. Three cupfuls of warm milk, half a cupful of 
 yeast, two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, one saltspoonful 
 each of salt and soda dissolved in hot water, flour enough 
 to make a good batter. Set these ingredients leaving out 
 the butter and soda as a sponge. When very light, beat 
 in the melted butter, with a very little flour ; stir in the soda 
 hard, fill patty-pans or muffin-rings with the mixture, and 
 let them stand fifteen minutes before baking. 
 
 Raised Waffles. One quart of warm milk, one tablespoon- 
 ful of butter, three eggs, one gill of yeast, one tablespoon- 
 ful of salt, and flour to make a stiff batter. Set to rise, and 
 bake in waffle-irons, which must be well heated before used. 
 
 Quick Waffles. One quart flour, two teaspoonfuls Durkee's 
 baking-powder, one teaspoonful salt ; mix dry ; then stir in 
 one tablespoonful melted butter, two well-beaten eggs, and 
 enough cold, sweet milk for a batter thin enough to pour ; 
 bake at once in waffle-irons. 
 
 Rice Waffles. Mix a teacupful and a half of boiling rice 
 with a pint of milk, rubbing it smooth over the fire. Take 
 from the fire and add a pint of cold milk and a teaspoonful 
 of salt. Stir in four well-beaten eggs with enough flour to 
 make a thin batter, and bake as above. Waffles should 
 always be served hot. Powdered sugar with a flavor of 
 powdered cinnamon makes a pleasing dressing for them. 
 
 VII. GRIDDLE-CAKES. 
 
 WHAT GRIDDLE-CAKES ARE j HINTS ABOUT GRIDDLES J HOW TO COOK 
 GRIDDLE-CAKES ; HOW TO SERVE THEM ; WHEN TO SERVE THEM; 
 WITH WHAT TO SERVE THEM. TEN RECIPES FOR GRIDDLE-CAKES. 
 
 AKES made of a batter so thin that it flows easily upon 
 la griddle, and that can, therefore, be quickly baked 
 and be served hot, are griddle-cakes, and great favorites 
 they arc. 
 
BREAD, BISCUIT, HOT CAKES, ETC. 
 
 All new griddles are hard to manage, but as the only way 
 to get old ones is to make them out of new ones, we are 
 shut up to the necessity of using the new, though they do 
 not work so well. Opinions divide between iron griddles 
 and those of soapstone. The latter require no greasing. 
 Hence trouble is saved, and the smoke of the fat used in 
 the constant greasing of a hot iron griddle is entirely 
 avoided. But still, many housekeepers prefer the old style. 
 
 A hot griddle is essential to good griddle-cakes. But it 
 must not be hot enough to burn before it bakes. A cold 
 griddle will make cakes tough, unpalatable, and decidedly 
 unwholesome. 
 
 Hot cakes may be served with powdered sugar, molasses, 
 maple sirup, or any other of the many excellent sirups in 
 the market. Cold days are the gala days for hot cakes. 
 Time immemorial, buckwheat cakes and sausage have gone 
 to the table side by side. There is delightful harmony in 
 this union ; but to serve hot cakes and fish together would 
 introduce discord into the best regulated family. There is 
 an eminent fitness between hot cakes and certain other 
 dishes, and it must never be disregarded. 
 
 RECIPES. 
 
 Buckwheat Cakes. One quart of buckwheat-meal, one 
 pint of wheat-flour or Indian-meal, half a teacupful of yeast, 
 salt to taste ; mix the flour, buckwheat, and salt with as 
 much water moderately warm as will make it into a thin 
 batter; beat it well, then add the yeast ; when well mixed, 
 set it in a warm place to rise ; as soon as it is very light, 
 grease the griddle and bake the cakes to a delicate brown. 
 Butter them with good butter and serve hot. 
 
 Graham Griddle-cakes. Scald a cupful of Indian-meal in a 
 pint of boiling water, and strain it over night. Thin it with 
 * quart of milk, and make into a sponge with a cupful of 
 
144 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 Graham flour, a large tablespoonful of molasses, and half & 
 cupful of yeast In the morning, add salt to taste, a cupful 
 of white flour, half a teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in hot 
 water, and a tablespoonful of butter or lard. Stir in enough 
 water to make batter of the right consistency, and bake on 
 a hot griddle. 
 
 Flannel Cakes. Three eggs, one quart of sweet milk, about 
 one quart of flour, a small teaspoonful of salt, two table- 
 spoonfuls of prepared baking-powder ; beat the yelks, and 
 half of the milk, salt, and flour together ; then the remainder 
 of the milk ; and last, the whites of the eggs well beaten. 
 Bake in small cakes on a hot griddle. 
 
 Flannel Cakes, No. 2. One quart of milk, three eggs, one 
 cupful of yeast, one dessertspoonful of salt, flour enough for 
 a thinnish batter, and a teaspoonful of butter ; set to rise ; 
 bake like buckwheat cakes. Cakes half Indian and half 
 wheat are very nice, and good cakes may be made even 
 without the eggs. 
 
 Rice Cakes. Soak a cupful of rice five or six hours in 
 enough warm water to cover it. Then boil slowly till soft. 
 While still warm, but not hot, stir in a tablespoonful of but- 
 ter, a tablespoonful of sugar, a teaspoonful of salt, and a 
 quart of milk. When cold, add three eggs, beaten very 
 light. Sift a half teaspoonful of cream of tartar into a 
 quarter cupful of rice flour, and add them to the batter, first 
 beating into it a quarter teaspoonful of soda dissolved in hot 
 water. 
 
 Rice Cakes, No. 2. Boil a cupful of rice until quite soft, 
 setting it aside until cool. Beat three eggs very light, and 
 put them into the rice, with a pint of flour, into which you 
 have sifted three teaspoonfuls of prepared baking-powder. 
 Add a teaspoonful of butter and one of salt, making it into 
 $ batter with a quart of milk, Bake on a griddle. 
 
BREAD, BISCUIT, HOT CAKES, ETC. 
 
 Hominy Cakes. Mix with cold boiled hominy an equal 
 quantity of white flour until perfectly smooth ; add a tea- 
 spoonful of salt and thin off with buttermilk, in part of 
 which a teaspoonful of soda has been dissolved ; when of 
 the proper consistency for griddle cakes, add a dessertspoon- 
 ful of melted butter, and bake as usual. 
 
 Sour Milk Cakes. One pint sour milk, one teaspoonful of 
 aoda, a little salt, two eggs, and flour to make a thin batter ; 
 bake on a hot griddle. 
 
 Indian Griddle Cakes. One large cupful Indian-meal, four 
 tablespoonfuls of wheat flour, two tablespoonfuls of Durkee's 
 baking-powder, one teaspoonful salt, mix together dry, then 
 add sufficient cold water for a batter ; bake at once on a hot 
 griddle. 
 
 Slapjacks. One pint of milk, three eggs, one teaspoonful 
 of soda, and one of salt, flour enough to make a thin bat- 
 ter. Butter your griddle, and fry them the size of a tea- 
 plate ; when one is done, turn it on the dish, sprinkle with a 
 little white sugar, and continue in this way till they are all 
 fried. Always fry them with butter. A little nutmeg may 
 be grated with the sugar on each cake. 
 
 VIIL YEAST AND YEAST CAKES. 
 
 NATURE OF YEAST ; ACTION OF YEAST IN DOUGH ; CAUSES OF LIGHT 
 BREAD AND HEAVY BREAD ; CARE OF YEAST. SIX RECIPES FOR 
 YEAST AND YEAST CAKES. 
 
 IN this chapter, yeast has been so often referred to that its 
 special consideration seems important just here. An- 
 alytically considered, it consists of an innumerable 
 quantity of infinitesimal fungi, called the yeast-plant. The 
 remarkable characteristic of these minute plants is, that 
 under fayoring conditions they multiply to an incredible 
 * 10 
 
146 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 extent in a very short time. Thus the production of yeast; 
 in proper mixtures, is an easy matter. 
 
 When yeast is placed in dough, it immediately produces 
 fermentation, in the process of which gases are generated, 
 which permeate the dough, filling it with gas-vessels and so 
 producing the spongy appearance so familiar in raised 
 bread. If this process goes too far, it sours the dough and 
 unfits it for food. If arrested by placing the dough in a 
 hot oven, the gases will be driven off by the heat, and the 
 thin dough walls will be set and baked. If the oven be 
 slow, the gases will be driven off, the dough walls will col- 
 lapse, and heavy bread will be the result. The proper use 
 of yeast is most important, therefore. It must be watched 
 as carefully as any other tender plant. Excessive heat of 
 cold, or rough mechanical usage will quickly destroy it, 
 
 RECIPES. 
 
 Brewer's Yeast. This yeast is produced during the process 
 of fermenting malt liquors. It is the most effective yeast 
 in use, being about eight times the strength of any other 
 kind. 
 
 Hop Yeast Boil four pounds of pared potatoes in three 
 quarts of water and stir through a colander. Boil a hand- 
 ful of hops in one quart of water for ten minutes, and strain 
 this upon the potatoes. Add a half pint of salt, a half pint of 
 sugar, and a tablespoonful of ginger. The quantity should 
 now measure five quarts. If it be less, add enough tepid 
 water to make the quantity correct. When lukewarm, add 
 a half pint of home-brewed yeast, mix thoroughly, and 
 stand in a warm place till bubbles form on the surface, which 
 indicate that it has become light Cover the vessel contain- 
 ing the yeast, and allow it to stand in a dry, cool place. It 
 will keep well for months. A gill of this yeast will suffice 
 for an ordinary baking, requiring a quart of water or milk, 
 
BREAD, BISCUIT, HOT CAKES, ETC. \1 
 
 Patent Yeast. Boil two ounces of hops in four quarts of 
 water for a half hour. Strain and cool till lukewarm, then 
 add a handful of salt, a half pound of sugar, and a pound 
 of flour, all mixed well and beaten up together. After it 
 has stood forty-eight hours, add three pounds of potatoes, 
 boiled and well-mashed. Let it stand twenty-four hours, 
 stirring it often ; then strain and bottle. It is ready for im- 
 mediate use, or will keep several months. Keep in a cool 
 place. 
 
 Potato Yeast Pare and boil six potatoes; mash them 
 through a colander and mix with them six tablespoonfuls of 
 flour. Pour on a quart of boiling water from that in which 
 the potatoes were boiled. Add half a teacupful of sugar, a 
 tablespoonful of salt, and when cool, a teacupful of home- 
 made yeast, or one-fourth the quantity of brewer's yeast. 
 
 Yeast Cakes. Thicken good yeast with Indian-meal till it 
 becomes a stiff batter. A little rye will make it adhere bet- 
 ter. Make into cakes an inch thick and two by three inches 
 in area. Dry them in the air, but not in the sun. Keep 
 them in a bag in a cool, dry place. One of these cakes is 
 enough for four quarts of flour. To use them, soak in 
 milk or water several hours and use as other yeast. 
 
 Compressed Yeast There are many valuable preparations 
 of this yeast, excellent in quality, and convenient to use. 
 They must be fresh, however, or they will fail of their pur- 
 pose. 
 
XL PASTRY AND PUDDINGS. 
 
 CARE IN INGREDIENTS AND MANIPULATION ESSENTIAL ; KEEP IW- 
 GREDIENTS COOL ; MIX QUICKLY ; HOW TO SHORTEN ; HOW TO 
 ROLL; THE FILLING; THE BAKING. SEVENTY-NINE RECIPES 
 FOR PASTRY AND PUDDINGS. 
 
 THAT pastry may be wholesome and appetizing, great 
 care in the selection of ingredients and in their ma- 
 nipulation is absolutely essential. One fact must 
 always be borne in mind that inferior ingredients cannot be 
 made into superior compounds though the finest ingre- 
 dients may be ruined by careless or unskillful handling. 
 Some suggestions of general application are therefore de- 
 sirable. 
 
 Be careful to have all the materials cool, and the butter and 
 lard hard ; use cold water (ice-water if convenient) ; use a 
 cool knife, and work on a marble slab if it can be had. 
 
 Put the ingredients together quickly, handling as little as 
 possible ; slow mixing and much contact with the hands 
 or fingers make tough crust. Always use well-sifted flour. 
 
 Except in puff-paste, lard and butter in about equal pro- 
 portions make the best crust ; if made of butter alone, it is 
 almost sure to be tough. That of lard alone, though ten- 
 der, is usually white and insipid. Beef drippings, or the 
 drippings of fresh pork, make a very light and palatable 
 crust, lighter and more tender indeed than that made with 
 butter alone, much better tasted than that made with lard 
 alone, and quite equal to that made with butter and lard 
 combined. Never use mutton drippings in crust. 
 
 Use very little salt and very little water ; pour the latter 
 in gradually, only a few drops at a time, unless you want 
 tough crust, 
 
 141 
 
PASTA Y AMD PVbblNGS. 149 
 
 Use plenty of flour on your paste-board, to keep the paste 
 from sticking. Work the crust of one pie at a time, and 
 always roll from you one way only. 
 
 The filling for the pie should be perfectly cool when put 
 in, or it will make the bottom crust heavy. 
 
 In making juicy pies, cut a slit in the top to let the steam 
 escape, else the pie will be puffed unduly. 
 
 The oven should be hot, but not sufficiently so to scorch 
 or to set the paste before it has had time to rise ; if too 
 slack, the paste will not rise at all, but will be white and 
 clammy. The best paste has a tinge of yellow. If per- 
 emitted to scorch or brown, even the best paste becomes 
 rancid. 
 
 RECIPES. 
 
 Pie Crust. Take one-half cupful of lard, one-half cupful 
 of butter, one quart of sifted flour, one cupful of cold water 
 and a little salt. Rub the butter and lard slightly into the 
 flour ; wet it with the water, mixing it as little as possible. 
 This quantity will make two large or three small pies. 
 
 Pie Crust Glaze. To prevent juice from soaking the under 
 crust, beat up the white of an egg, and before filling the pie, 
 brush over the crust with the beaten egg. Brush over the 
 top crust also, to give it a beautiful yellow brown. 
 
 Puff Paste. Take one pound of sifted flour, on which 
 sprinkle a very little sugar ; take the yelks of one or two 
 eggs, and beat into them a little ice-water, and pour gently 
 into the centre of the flour, and work into a firm paste, 
 adding water as is necessary; divide three-quarters of a 
 pound or a pound of firm, solid butter, as you prefer, into 
 three parts ; roll out the paste, and spread one part of the 
 butter on half of the paste ; fold the other half over, and 
 roll out again, repeating the process until the butter is all 
 rolled in ; then set the paste on the ice for fifteen or twenty 
 
160 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 minutes, after which roll out again three times, each time 
 rolling it the opposite direction ; then put on the ice again 
 until cold, when it is ready for use. Such paste will keep 
 several days in a refrigerator, but should not be allowed to 
 freeze. 
 
 Paste Shells. Take sufficient rich puff-paste prepared as 
 in the preceding recipe, roll very thin, cut to shape, and bake 
 in a brisk oven in tin pans. Baked carefully, before fill- 
 ing with fruit, the paste rises better. When cool, the shells 
 may be filled with stewed fruit, jelly, preserves, rich cream 
 whipped to a stiff froth, raspberries, strawberries, or sliced 
 peaches. These are delicious light desserts. Raspberries, 
 strawberries, or sliced peaches, smothered with whipped 
 cream on these shells, are really exquisite. 
 
 Apple Pie. Line a pie plate with paste, and fill it heaping 
 full with tart apples, sliced very thin. Sweeten and spice to 
 taste, mixing well into the apples. Put in plenty of butter, 
 and moisten well with cream. Bake until the apples are 
 thoroughly done. Use no upper crust. 
 
 Apple Meringue Pie. Stew and sweeten ripe, juicy apples. 
 Mash smooth, and season with nutmeg. Fill the crust, and 
 bake until just done. Spread over the apple a thick me- 
 ringue, made by whipping to a stiff froth the whites of three 
 eggs tor each pie, sweetening with a tablespoonful of pow- 
 dered sugar for each egg. Flavor this with vanilla ; beat 
 until it will stand alone, and cover the pie three-quarters of 
 an inch thick. Set back in the oven until the meringue is 
 well set. Eat cold. 
 
 Peach Meringue Pie. Proceed as above in all respects, 
 simply substituting peaches for apples. Whipped cream 
 will make a delightful substitute for the whipped egg in 
 either of these meringue pies. 
 
 Peach Pie, Bake rich shells about two-thirds done; if 
 your peaches are fully ripe, cut them into halves or quarters. 
 
PASTRY AND PUDDINGS. \\ 
 
 put in the shell, sweeten and flavor to taste, cover or not as 
 you choose, and finish baking in a quick oven; if the 
 peaches are ripe, but not soft, it will improve the flavor to 
 sugar them down some hours before you wish to use them ; 
 if not ripe, they should be stewed. 
 
 Gooseberry Pie. Stew the gooseberries with plenty of 
 white sugar, and use plain puff-paste for crust. 
 
 Cherry Pie, Having removed the stones, put in sugar as 
 may be needed, and stew the cherries slowly till they are 
 quite done, if you use shells, or till nearly done if you use 
 paste. A few of the pits added in stewing increase the 
 richness of the flavor ; but they should not go into the pies. 
 If baked slowly the cherries need not be stewed at all. 
 
 Rhubarb Pie. Remove the skin from the stalks ; cut them 
 in small pieces ; pour boiling water over and let stand for 
 ten minutes ; drain thoroughly ; then fill the pie-dish evenly 
 full ; put in plenty of sugar, a little butter, and dredge a 
 trifle of flour evenly over the top ; cover with a thin crust, 
 and bake the same as apple pie. Equal quantities of apple 
 and rhubarb used in the same manner make a very good pie. 
 
 Pumpkin Pie. Stew the pumpkin until thoroughly done, 
 and pass it through a colander. To one quart of stewed 
 pumpkin, add three eggs, and one pint of milk. Sweeten, 
 and spice with ground ginger and cinnamon to taste. Add 
 butter, rose water, and a little brandy. The quantity of 
 milk used will vary as the pumpkin may be moist or dry. 
 
 Sweet Potato Pie. Scrape clean two good-sized sweet pota- 
 toes ; boil ; when tender, rub through the colander ; beat 
 the yelks of three eggs light ; stir with a pint of sweet milk 
 into the potato ; add a small teacupful of sugar, a pinch of 
 salt; flavor with a little fresh lemon, or lemon extract; 
 bake to a nice brown ; when done, make a meringue top with 
 the whites of eggs and powdered sugar; brown this a 
 moment in the oven. 
 
EVERY WOMAN' HER OWN COO 1C. 
 
 Custard Pie. Take one quart of milk, five eggs, four table* 
 spoonfuls of sugar, a small piece of butter. Sift over the 
 top Durkee's mixed spice. 
 
 Lemon Pie. Let two cupfuls of water come to a boil ; put 
 in two tablespoonfuls of corn-starch dissolved. When it 
 has boiled enough, take it from the stove, add the juice and 
 rind of two lemons, two cupfuls of sugar, a piece of butter 
 the size of a walnut, and the yelks of two eggs. Beat the 
 whites of these eggs with pulverized sugar, and put on the 
 top of the pies when done. Put into the oven to brown. 
 
 Orange Pie. Beat the yelks of three eggs until light, and 
 add to them the juice and grated rind of one orange, three- 
 quarters of a cupful of sugar, and a tablespoonful of corn- 
 starch mixed in half a cupful of water. Bake without 
 upper crust, using the whites of the eggs for meringue. 
 
 Cream Pie. One pint of milk, scalded ; two tablespoonfula 
 of corn-starch, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, yelks of two 
 eggs. Wet the starch with a little cold milk ; beat the eggs 
 and sugar until light, and stir the whole into the scalding 
 milk. Flavor with lemon or vanilla, and set aside to cool. 
 Line a plate with pie-crust and bake ; fill it with the cream, 
 and cover with frosting made of the whites of the eggs, 
 beaten dry, with two tablespoonfuls of sugar. Bake to a 
 delicate brown. 
 
 Cocoamit Pie. One quart of milk, half a pound of grated 
 cocoanut, three eggs, six tablespoonfuls of sugar, butter the 
 size of an egg. Bake in open shells. 
 
 Cheese-cake Pie. This may be made from the above recipe, 
 substituting cottage-cheese for the cocoanut. Sprinkle the 
 top with Durkee's mixed spices. 
 
 Mince Pie. Seven pounds of beef, three and a half pounds 
 of beef suet, five pounds of raisins, two pounds of currants, 
 one-half peck of apples, four pounds of sugar, three-quarters 
 
PASTRY AND PUDDINGS. 15$ 
 
 of a pound of citron, one-quarter of a pound of preserved 
 lemon, two large oranges, four nutmegs, half an onnce of 
 cinnamon, half an ounce of cloves, and three pints of brandy. 
 This quantity of mince-meat will make from twenty to 
 twenty-five pies. When making the pies, moisten the meat 
 with sweet cider. 
 
 Tarts. Use the best of puff-paste; roll it out a little 
 thicker than pie-crust, and cut with a large biscuit-cutter 
 twice as many as you intend to have of tarts. Then cut 
 out of half of these a small round in the centre, which will 
 leave a circular rim of crust ; lift this up carefully, and lay 
 it on the other pieces. Bake in pans, so providing both the 
 bottom and tfie top crusts. Fill with any kind of preserves, 
 jam, or jelly. 
 
 Pineapple Tart. Take a fine, large, ripe pineapple; re- 
 move the leaves and quarter it without paring, grate it down 
 till you come to the rind ; strew plenty of powdered sugar 
 over the grated fruit; cover it, and let it rest for an hour; 
 then put it into a porcelain kettle, and steam in its own sirup 
 till perfectly soft ; have ready some empty shells of puff- 
 paste, or bake in patty-pans. When they are cool, fill them 
 full with the grated pineapple; add more sugar, and lay 
 round the rim a border of puff-paste. 
 
 Tea Baskets. Make a short, sweetened pie-crust ; roll thin, 
 and partly bake in sheets ; before it is quite done take from 
 the oven, cut in squares of four inches or so, take up two 
 diagonal corners and pinch together, which makes them 
 basket-shaped ; now fill with whipped cream, or white of 
 egg, or both, well sweetened and flavored, and return to the 
 oven for a few minutes. 
 
 Strawberry Short-cake. Make a good biscuit crust, and 
 roll out about one-quarter of an inch thick, and cut into 
 two oakes the same size and shape ; spread one over lightly 
 
 melted butter, an<J Jay the other over it, and bake m a 
 
154 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 hot oven. When done, they will fall apart. Butter them 
 well as usual. Mix the berries with plenty of sugar, and 
 set in a warm place until needed. Spread the berries and 
 cakes in alternate layers, berries on the top, and over all 
 spread whipped cream or charlotte russe. The juice that 
 has run from the fruit can be sent to the table in a tureen 
 and served with the cake as it is cut. 
 
 Strawberry Shorttake, No. 2. Take one quart of flour and 
 sift into it two teaspoonfuls of sea-foam, a little salt, quarter 
 of a pound of butter rubbed in, with milk enough to moisten 
 properly. Handle as little as possible, divide into two parts, 
 roll each flat, and place in two jelly pans. Bake quickly, 
 then split apart the top and bottom of each crust ; spread on 
 plenty of butter, have the strawberries washed and drained 
 in a sieve, crush them slightly, and sweeten well. Spread 
 plenty of berries over each layer of the crust, and have some 
 of the crushed and sweetened berries in a deep dish. When 
 the cake is cut and served, cover each piece with the crushed 
 berries, using this as sauce. 
 
 Batter Pudding. Beat the yelks and whites of four eggs 
 separately, and mix them with six or eight ounces of flour 
 and a saltspoonful of salt Make the batter of the proper 
 consistency by adding a little more than a pint of milk ; mix 
 carefully; butter a baking-tin, pour the mixture into it, and 
 bake three-quarters of an hour. Serve with vanilla sauce. 
 
 Apple Batter Pudding. Core and peel eight apples, put in 
 a dish, fill the places from which the cores have been taken 
 with brown sugar, cover and bake. Beat the yelks of four 
 G SS S lig nt a dd two teacupfuls of flour, with three even tea- 
 spoonfuls of baking-powder sifted with it, one pint of milk, 
 and teaspoonful of salt, then the whites well beaten ; pour 
 over the apples and bake. Use sauce with it. 
 
 Suet Pudding, Take a pint of milk, two eggs well beaten, 
 balf a pound of finely chopped suet, and a teaspoonful ot 
 
PASTRY AND PUDDINGS. 155 
 
 salt. Add flour gradually till you have a pretty thick batter j 
 boil two hours, and eat with molasses. 
 
 Suet Pudding, No. 2. One cupful of suet or butter, one cup- 
 ful of molasses, one bowlful of raisins and currants, one egg, 
 one cupful of sweet milk, one teaspoonful of saleratus dis- 
 solved in milk ; one-fourth teaspoonful of cloves, and one- 
 half of nutmeg. Mix stiff with flour and steam three hours. 
 A fine sauce for this pudding may be made thus : One cup- 
 ful of butter and two cupfuls of sugar, beat into a cream ; 
 add three eggs beaten very light ; stir in two tablespoonfuls 
 of boiling water. Flavor with wine, brandy, or vanilla. 
 
 Hasty Pudding. Wet a heaping cupful of Indian-meal and 
 a half cupful of flour with a pint of milk ; stir it into a quart 
 of boiling water. Boil hard for half an hour, stirring from 
 the bottom almost constantly. Put in a teaspoonful of salt 
 and a tablespoonful of butter, and simmer ten minutes 
 longer. Turn into a deep, uncovered dish, and eat with 
 sugar and cream, or sugar and butter with nutmeg. 
 
 Baked Hasty Pudding. Take from a pint of new milk suffi- 
 cient to mix into a thin batter two ounces of flour, put the 
 remainder, with a small pinch of salt, into a clean saucepan, 
 and when it boils quickly, stir the flour briskly to it ; keep 
 it stirred over a gentle fire for ten minutes, pour it out, and 
 when it has become a little cool, mix with it two ounces of 
 fresh butter, three of powdered sugar, the grated rind of a 
 small lemon, four large or five small eggs, and half a glass 
 of brandy or as much orange-flower water. Bake the pud- 
 ding half an hour in a gentle oven. 
 
 Minute Pudding. Take six eggs, two tablespoonfuls of 
 sugar, one cupful of flour, a lump of butter large as an egg, 
 and half a nutmeg ; you may add, if desired, a half pound 
 of raisins ; mix well and bake quick. 
 
 padding. Twelve ears pf sweet cpro grated t 
 
156 t EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 quart of sweet milk ; add a quarter of a pound of good but* 
 ter, quarter of a pound of sugar, and four eggs ; bake from 
 three to four hours. 
 
 Farina Pudding. Boil one quart of milk, stir in slowly 
 three tablespoonfuls of farina, let it boil a few minutes ; beat 
 two eggs and four tablespoonfuls of sugar with one pint of 
 milk, and mix thoroughly with the farina ; when it has 
 cooled so as to be little more than lukewarm, put in pans, 
 and bake in a moderate oven. Serve with cream sauce. 
 
 Plain Tapioca Pudding. A cup not quite full of tapioca to 
 a quart of milk ; let it stand on the side of the range till it 
 swells; add while hot a tablespoonful of butter and a cupful 
 of white sugar, and let it cool ; then add five eggs (three 
 will do quite well), well beaten, and flavor to your taste. To 
 be baked from three-quarters of an hour to an hour. It is 
 very nice when dressed with wine sauce, but may be eaten 
 with plainer dressing. 
 
 Tapioca-Vi'i Apple Pudding. One cofleecupful of Durkee's 
 farina-tapioca, one dozen good-flavored, tart apples, pared 
 and cored, one quart of water, a little salt. Cover the 
 tapioca with the water, and set it in a tolerably warm place 
 to soak five or six hours, stirring occasionally. Lay the 
 apples in a deep dish, put a little sugar and spice in the 
 centre, pour over the tapioca, and bake one hour. 
 
 Peaches may be substituted for apples, which will make a 
 delightful dish. Serve with hard sauce. 
 
 Vermicelli Pudding. Into a pint and a half of boiling milk 
 drop four ounces of fresh vermicelli, and keep it simmering 
 and stirred up gently ten minutes, when it will have become 
 very thick ; then mix with it three and one-half ounces of 
 sugar, two ounces of butter, and a little salt. When the 
 whole is well blended, pour it out, beat it for a few minutes 
 to cool it, then add by degrees four well-beaten eggs, and the 
 
PASTRY AND PUDDINGS. 157 
 
 grated rind of a lemon ; pour a little clarified butter over the 
 top ; bake it from one-half to three-fourths of an hour. 
 
 Sago Pudding, Two large spoonfuls of sago boiled in one 
 quart of water, the peel of one lemon, a little nutmeg ; when 
 cold add four eggs and a little salt. Bake about one hour 
 and a half. Serve with sugar and cream. 
 
 Arrow-root Pudding. Boil one quart of milk, and stir into 
 it four heaping tablespoonfuls of arrow-root dissolved in a 
 little milk, mixed with four well-beaten eggs and two table* 
 spoonfuls of white sugar. Boil three minutes. Eat with 
 cream and sugar. This pudding is improved by flavoring 
 with lemon. It should be prepared for table by pouring into 
 wet molds. 
 
 Cocoanut Pudding. One cocoanut finely grated (use both 
 the meat and milk), one quart of milk, one cupful of sugar, 
 five eggs, half a cupful of butter, a little salt, and a tea- 
 spoonful of rose-water. Boil the milk, and *wir upon the 
 cocoanut, add the eggs well beaten, and the>uJier ingre- 
 dients, and bake in a deep dish, with or without an under- 
 crust. 
 
 Cocoanut Pudding, No. 2. Put a pint of milk to boil in a 
 farina kettle. Take four tablespoonfuls of corn-starch and 
 dissolve it in a little cold milk, then stir it into the boiling 
 milk. Add half a cupful of sugar, the well-beaten whites of 
 four eggs, half a grated cocoanut, and a teaspoonful of va- 
 nilla extract ; turn into a mold to cool. For a suitable sauce 
 put a pint of milk to boil, beat the yelks of four eggs with 
 two tablespoonfuls of sugar till light, then add the boiling 
 milk, with a tablespoonful of vanilla extract. Cook for two 
 minutes in a farina kettle, then turn out to cool. 
 
 Rice Pudding. One quart of milk, three eggs, half a cup- 
 ful of rice, three-fourths of a cupful of sugar, half a cupful 
 of butter, one cupful of raisins, seeded. Soak the rice in a 
 
158 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 pint of the milk an hour, then set the saucepan containing 
 it where it will slowly heat to a boil. Boil five minutes ; re- 
 move and let it cool. Beat the eggs, add the sugar and but- 
 ter, the rice and the milk in which it was cooked, with the 
 pint of unboiled milk, and finally the raisins. Grate nut- 
 meg on the top, and bake three-quarters of an hour, or 
 until the custard is well set and of a light brown. Serve 
 with hard brandy sauce. 
 
 Bice Pudding, No. 2. Three-quarters of a cupful of soaked 
 rice, one cupful of sugar, three pints of milk, one table- 
 spoonful of butter. Season with lemon rind or spice to 
 taste. Bake three-quarters of an hour. 
 
 Cottage Pudding. Three cupfuls flour, or sufficient to 
 make the batter ; one teaspoonful butter, one cupful sugar, 
 two eggs, one cupful milk, half a teaspoonful soda, one tea- 
 spoonful each of cream of tartar and salt ; mix the cream 
 of tartar with the flour, beat the whites of the eggs ; put 
 the butter, sugar, and yelks of the eggs together; then 
 work in the milk, soda, and salt, adding gradually the flour 
 and whites of the eggs ; there should be flour enough to 
 make a fairly stiff batter ; butter a mold or dish, and bake ; 
 it may be turned out or served from the dish ; to be eaten 
 with any liquid sauce. 
 
 Rennet Pudding. Take one quart of milk, and warm it 
 enough to remove the chill ; in summer it does not need 
 warming at all ; stir into it three tablespoonfuls of granu- 
 lated sugar, two of rose-water, and four of rennet wine ; stir 
 it gently, not more than a minute ; let it stand, and do not 
 move it till it is curdled, then place it gently in the ice chest 
 and grate nutmeg on the top. Be careful not to shake it in 
 moving, for if the curd is disturbed it will turn to whey. 
 
 Lemon Pudding, Take the yellow part of the rind of one, 
 find the juice of two large, juicy lemons. Beat to a cream half 
 & pound pf butter, and the same of powdered sugar, Beat; 
 
PASTRY AND PUDDINGS. 159 
 
 six eggs very light, and stir them gradually into the mix- 
 ture. Add a glass of wine or brandy. Put the whole into 
 a dish with a broad edge ; put round two of three layers of 
 puff-paste. Bake half an hour, and when cold sprinkle white 
 sugar over it. Oranges may be used in the same way. To 
 be eaten cold. 
 
 Orange Pudding. Two oranges the juice of both and 
 grated peel of one; juice of one lemon; one half-pound 
 lady's-fingers stale and crumbled ; two cupfuls of milk ; 
 four eggs, one-half cupful sugar; one tablespoonful corn* 
 starch, wet with water ; one tablespoonful butter, melted. 
 Soak the crumbs in the cold milk, whip up light, and add the 
 eggs and sugar, already beaten to a cream with the batter. 
 Next add the corn-starch, and when the mold is buttered 
 and water boiling hard, stir in the juice and peel of the 
 fruit. Do this quickly, and plunge the mold directly into 
 the hot water. Boil one hour ; turn out and eat with very 
 sweet brandy sauce. 
 
 Apple Pudding. Fill an earthen baking-dish with finely 
 chopped apples; season -with sugar and nutmeg, add a 
 little water, set it on the back of the range until the apples 
 are tender ; then make a crust of one teacupful of sweet 
 milk, one tablespoonful of butter, a little salt, one teaspoon- 
 ful baking-powder, flour enough to roll out; lay the crust 
 on top of the apples and bake. To be eaten hot with sweet 
 sauce, flavored with lemon or vanilla. Other kinds of fruit 
 may be used in the same manner. 
 
 Bread Pudding. One pint bread-crumbs ; one quart milk ; 
 rind of one lemon grated into milk ; yelks four eggs, beaten 
 and mixed with one-half cupful sugar. Bake one-half hour. 
 Spread meringue on top. 
 
 Fruit Bread Pudding. Soak three large cupfuls of very fine 
 bread-crurnbs, through which has been mixed two teaspoon- 
 fete pf cream, tartar, in a quart of milk; next beat io three 
 
160 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 eggs well whipped, and a cupful of sugar ; add half a cup* 
 ful of finely chopped suet, a little salt, nutmeg, and cinna- 
 mon. Whip the batter very light, and then add fruit as fol- 
 lows, it having been well dredged wvth flour : Half pound 
 of raisins, seeded and cut in too ; one tablespoonful of finely 
 sliced citron ; half a pound of Sultana raisins, washed well 
 and dried. Add a teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in hot 
 water ; heat for three minutes ; put into a buttered mold, 
 and boil hard for two hours. Eat with brandy sauce. 
 
 Delmonico Pudding. One quart of milk, four eggs, using 
 the white of one only ; three tablespoonfuls of sugar, two 
 tablespoonfuls of corn-starch, one cupful of cocoanut, a little 
 salt. Put the milk in a farina boiler to scald ; wet the starch 
 in cold milk ; beat the eggs and sugar, and stir all into the 
 scalding milk ; add the cocoanut, and pour the whole into a 
 pudding-dish ; whip dry the three whites, reserved as above, 
 with three tablespoonfuls of sugar ; flavor with lemon or 
 vanilla ; spread over the pudding and bake a light brown. 
 Eat hot or cold. 
 
 Almond Pudding. Turn boiling water on to three-fourths 
 of a pound of sweet almonds ; let it remain until the skin 
 comes off easily ; rub with a dry cloth ; when dry, pound 
 fine with one large spoonful of rose-water ; beat six eggs to 
 a stiff froth with three spoonfuls of fine white sugar ; mix 
 with one quart of milk, three spoonfuls of pounded crackers, 
 four ounces of melted butter, and the same of citron cut 
 into bits ; add almonds ; stir all together, and bake in a 
 small pudding-dish with a lining and rim of pastry. This 
 pudding is best when cold. It will bake in half an hour in 
 a quick oven. 
 
 Cup Custard. One quart of milk, five eggs, teaspoonful of 
 butter, sugar to taste. Pour into buttered cups, season with 
 Durkee's mixed spices, and bake, This can be baked in a 
 pudding-pan, if preferred. 
 
PASTRY AND PUDDINGS. 
 
 Rice Custard. Into a quart of boiling water stir two 
 tablespoonfuls of rice flour, dissolved in a little cold milk ; 
 add two well-beaten eggs to the boiling mixture ; sweeten 
 and flavor to taste. 
 
 Chocolate Custard. Three pints of sweet milk, four table- 
 spoonfuls of grated chocolate, three tablespoonfuls of corn- 
 starch, and two eggs. Put the chocolate and a little milk 
 on to boil, stir it until smooth, then add a little cold milk. 
 Beat up the eggs in the remainder of the milk, and pour all 
 into the chocolate. Stir until it thickens ; take off the fire, 
 and add sugar and vanilla to taste. Place in a glass dish, 
 and when cold, drop large spoonfuls of the whites of eggs, 
 beaten very light with sugar, over the top, in the centre of 
 each, a little currant jelly. This makes a very ornamental, 
 as well as palatable dish. 
 
 Chocolate Pudding. Make a corn-starch pudding with a 
 quart of milk, three teaspoonfuls of corn-starch, and three 
 tablespoonfuls of sugar. When done, remove about half 
 and flavor to taste, and then to that remaining in the kettle 
 add an egg beaten very light and two ounces of vanilla 
 chocolate. Put in a mold, alternating the dark and light, 
 and serve with whipped cream. 
 
 Baked Indian Pudding. Boil one pint of milk ; while boil- 
 ing stir in one cupful of Indian-meal ; let it cool a little, and 
 add three eggs well-beaten, one pint of cold milk, one table- 
 spoonful of flour, one-half cupful of sugar, one cupful of 
 molasses, one teaspoonful of ginger, one of cinnamon, and a 
 little salt. Bake an hour and a half. 
 
 Queen's Pudding. One pint of bread-crumbs, one quart of 
 milk, yelks of four eggs, rind of one lemon; sweeten to taste. 
 Bake as a custard. After baking, spread the top with cur- 
 rant jelly. Beat the whites of the eggs, add to them one 
 cupful of sugar dissolved in the juice of a lemon. Spread 
 this over the pudding, and brown. 
 11 
 
EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 Brown Betty. One loaf of stale bread crumbled fine, one- 
 half cupful of milk, and twelve apples. Alternate layers of 
 bread and sliced apples, sugared, buttered, and spiced. 
 Moisten with the milk. Bake in a tin pudding-pan for three 
 hours. 
 
 Poor Man's Plum Pndding. One cupful of molasses, one 
 cupful of suet chopped very fine, beaten smoothly together ; 
 one teaspoonful of salt and one of soda mixed through a 
 half-pound of flour, one pint of milk, one pound of raisins, 
 seeded and chopped, and a half-pound of sliced citron. Boil 
 three hours. 
 
 English Plnm Pudding. Two pounds of chopped suet, 
 three pounds of seeded raisins, two pounds of currants, one- 
 half pound of citron, two pounds of sugar, five eggs, one pint 
 of milk, one-half pint of brandy., two nutmegs, a little salt, 
 flour sufficient to make it very stiff. Put it into one or two 
 bags, and boil in a large quantity of water seven or eight 
 hours. Serve with sauce. 
 
 Spice Pudding. One cupful of sour milk, one cupful of 
 butter, four cupfuls of flour, two cupfuls of currants, one 
 cupful of sugar, four eggs, four teaspoonfuls of cinnamon, 
 one teaspoonful of cloves, and one teaspoonful of soda. Bake 
 in a quick oven, and serve with brandy sauce. 
 
 Paradise Pudding. Stew until tender three ounces of rice 
 in a pint and a quarter of milk, add four ounces of raisins, 
 three ounces of suet chopped fine, two and a half ounces of 
 sugar, two eggs, a little nutmeg and lemon peel. Boil three 
 hours. Serve with hard sauce. 
 
 Jelly Pudding. Two cupfuls very fine stale biscuit or 
 bread-crumbs ; one cupful of rich milk half cream, if you 
 can get it ; five eggs, beaten very light ; one-half teaspoon- 
 ful of soda, stirred in boiling water ; one cupful of sweet 
 jelly, jam, or marmalade. Scald the milk ajid pour over the 
 
PASTR Y AND ^PUDDINGS. 
 
 crumbs. Beat until half cold, and stir in the beaten yelks, 
 then whites, finally the soda. Fill large cups half full with 
 the batter ; set in a quick oven and bake half an hour. 
 When done, turn out quickly and dexterously ; with a sharp 
 knife make an incision in the side of each ; pull partly open, 
 and put a liberal spoonful of the conserve within. Close the 
 slit by pinching the edges with your fingers. Eat warm with 
 sweetened cream. 
 
 Cabinet Pudding. Take of the remains of any kind of cake 
 broken up two cupfuls, half a cupful of raisins, half a can of 
 peaches, four eggs, one and a half pints of milk. Butter a 
 plain pudding mold and lay in some of the broken cake, 
 one-third of the raisins, stoned, one-third of the peaches ; 
 make two layers of the remainder of the cake, raisins, and 
 peaches. Cover with a very thin slice of bread, then pour 
 over the milk beaten with the eggs and sugar. Set in a 
 saucepan of boiling water to reach two-thirds up the side of 
 the mold, and steam three-quarters of an hour. 
 
 Turn out carefully on a dish, and serve with peach sauce, 
 made as follows : Place the peach juice from the can into a 
 small saucepan ; add an equal volume of water, a little more 
 sugar, and eight or ten raisins ; boil ten minutes, strain, and 
 just before serving add six drops of bitter almond. 
 
 Delicious Pudding. Bake a common sponge cake in a flat- 
 bottomed pudding-dish ; when ready for use, cut in six or 
 eight pieces ; split and spread with butter, and return them 
 to the dish. Make a custard with four eggs to a quart of 
 milk, flavor and sweeten to taste ; pour over the cake and 
 bake one-half hour. The cake will swell and fill the custard. 
 Any stale cake will do about as well as sponge cake. 
 
 Bird's-nest Pudding. Make the foundation of the nest of 
 corn-starch or blanc-mange. Cut strips of lemon peel, boil 
 in a sirup of water and sugar till tender, and arrange around 
 the blanc-mange to represent straw. Extract the contents 
 
164 EVERY WOMAtt HER OWN COOK. 
 
 of four eggs through a small hole, and fill the shells with 
 hot blanc-mange or corn-starch. When cold, break off the 
 shells, and lay the molded eggs in the nest. 
 
 Snow Pudding. Soak an ounce of gelatine in a pint of 
 cold water for one hour ; then place it over the fire, stir 
 gently, and remove as soon as it is dissolved ; when almost 
 cold, beat to a stiff froth with an egg-beater. Beat the 
 whites of three eggs to a stiff froth, and add it to the 
 gelatine froth, together with the juice of three lemons, and 
 pulverized sugar to the taste. Mix the whole well together, 
 pour into a mold, and set aside to cool. Serve on a dish 
 with soft custard made from the yelks of the eggs. 
 
 Cherry Pudding. Two eggs, one cupful sweet milk, flour 
 enough to make a stiff batter, two teaspoonfuls of baking- 
 powder, and as many cherries as can be stirred in.. Eat with 
 sauce made of the cherries. 
 
 Blackberry Mush. Put the berries into a preserving kettle 
 and mash with sugar enough to make sweet ; set over the 
 re, and when it begins to simmer, stir in very gradually 
 one tablespoonful, or more if needed, of corn-starch to a 
 quart of fruit ; stir until well cooked, and eat either hot 
 or cold with cream ; raspberries also may be used this way. 
 
 Roley-poley. Make a good biscuit dough, and roll about 
 three-quarters of an inch thick, and spread with berries, 
 preserves, or slices of apple ; roll up and tie in a cloth ; boil 
 or steam an hour and a half. 
 
 Berry or Fruit Puddings. One quart sifted flour, two table- 
 spoonfuls shortening, half teaspoonful salt, and two tea- 
 spoonfuls baking-powder ; mix well, then form a soft dough 
 of milk or water, roll out thin, and spread with any kind of 
 berries, fruit, or preserves ; roll it up, tie in a cloth, and 
 place in the steamer, or boil in a mold. This makes fine 
 dumplings. 
 
PASTRY AND PUDDINGS. 
 
 (Stemian Puffs. Two cups of sweet milk, two cups of flour, 
 three eggs, and a little salt Bake in buttered cups. 
 
 Indian Puffs. Into one quart of boiling milk stir eight 
 tablespoonfuls of corn-meal and four tablespoonfuls of 
 brown sugar ; boil five minutes, stirring constantly ; when 
 cool, add six well-beaten eggs bake in buttered cups half 
 an hour. Eat with sauce. 
 
 WMte Puffs. One pint rich milk ; whites of four eggs 
 whipped stiff; one heaping cupful prepared flour ; one scant 
 cupful powdered sugar ; grated peel of half a lemon ; a little 
 salt. Whisk the eggs and sugar to a meringue, and add 
 this alternately with the flour to the milk. Cream, or half 
 cream half milk, is better. Beat until the mixture is very 
 light, and bake in buttered cups or tins. Turn out, sift 
 powdered sugar over them, and eat with lemon sauce. 
 
 Oak Balls. Three cupfuls each of flour and milk, three 
 eggs, whites and yelks beaten separately and very light, 
 three tablespoonfuls of melted butter, a little salt. Pour in 
 well-buttered muffin-rings, and bake to a nice brown. 
 
 Apple Dumplings. Make a biscuit dough, and cover the 
 apples (pared and cored), singly ; tie in cloths and drop in 
 boiling water. Let it boil half an hour. If preferred, mix 
 flour and a little salt, and scald with boiling water. When 
 cold enough to handle, roll it out and cover the apples. Or 
 a pie-crust may be made for a cover and the dumplings may 
 be baked in the oven. 
 
 Peach Dumplings. These may be made according to the 
 preceding recipe, substituting peaches for apples. 
 
 Lemon Dumplings. Take suet, four ounces ; moist sugar, 
 four ounces ; bread-crumbs, one-half pound ; one lemon. 
 Grate the rind of the lemon, squeeze out the juice, mix all 
 the ingredients. Put in buttered teacups and bake three- 
 quarters of an hour. 
 
XII. CREAMS, JELLIES, AND LIGHT DES- 
 
 SERTS. 
 
 LIGHT DESSERTS FOR HOME USE; FROZEN PREPARATIONS; 
 FREEZERS ; HOW TO FREEZE CREAMS, ETC. J HOW TO TURN OUT 
 THE MOLDS ; WHIPPED CREAMS, JELLIES, ETC. FORTY- FIVE 
 
 RECIPES FOR CREAMS, JELLIES, BLANC-MANGES, ETC. 
 
 THERE is a delightful range of light desserts which need 
 to be introduced more generally into our homes. 
 They have too long been allowed to rest in the con- 
 fectioner's under the erroneous notion that they were be- 
 yond the capacity of the ordinary housekeeper. 
 
 Prominent among these desserts are ice-cream and water- 
 ices with all their splendid possibilities of variety. For hints 
 concerning freezers and other tools for the home manufac- 
 ture of these preparations, see the last chapter of this 
 department 
 
 In making ice-cream, use only the best materials. Avoid 
 milk thickened with arrow-root, corn-starch, or any farina- 
 ceous substance. Pure cream, ripe natural fruits, or good 
 extracts of the same, and sugar of the purest quality, com- 
 bine to make a perfect ice-cream. To freeze the cream, 
 assuming it be already flavored, first pound up ice and mix 
 with it a quantity of coarse salt, in the proportion of about 
 one-third the quantity of salt to the amount of ice used. 
 Put the freezing-can in the centre of the tub, taking care 
 that the lid is securely fastened down, and pile the mixed 
 ice and salt around it to within three inches of the top, or 
 certainly as high as the cream reaches on the inside. 
 
 Begin to stir the cream at once, and stir rapidly and con- 
 stantly. This is essential to make the cream smooth. If 
 
 J66 
 
CREAMS, JELLIES, AND LIGHT DESSERTS. 
 
 the cream is allowed to freeze to the sides of the can with- 
 out being quickly removed, there will inevitably be lumps 
 of ice through it. The freezing has progressed sufficiently 
 far when the cream will stand heaped upon a spoon. 
 
 When a small can of cream has been made for table use, 
 it is desirable to serve it in a cylindrical form as it comes 
 solid from the can. To remove it in this form, take the can 
 from the ice and wipe off all the salt and ice which adheres 
 to it. Remove the lid and invert the can upon a plate. 
 Wrap about the can a towel wet with warm water. This 
 will sufficiently relax the freezing within the can to allow 
 the cream to slide out in compact form. Molds of 
 cream may be removed in the same manner, by dipping 
 them in warm water for a moment. Water-ices and frozen 
 fruits need the same general treatment. 
 
 For whipping cream, etc., some of the improved beaters, 
 described at the end of this department, will be found to be 
 superior to the old hand methods. In all delicate dishes the 
 best ingredients must invariably be used. 
 
 RECIPES. 
 
 Vanilla Ice-cream. Two quarts of pure cream, fourteen 
 ounces of white sugar, flavored with vanilla bean or extract 
 of vanilla to taste ; mix well, and freeze as directed 
 above. Pure cream needs no thickening or boiling. Milk 
 may be boiled or thickened with arrow-root or corn- 
 starch, but it will not produce ice cream. 
 
 Lemon Ice-cream. For the same quantity of cream and 
 sugar, as above, stir in the juice of from four to eight 
 lemons, according to size and juiciness, and grate in a little 
 of the rind. Then freeze as above. 
 
 Orange Ice-cream. Proceed as in lemon cream, using 
 oranges, and regulating the quantity of sugar as the fruit is 
 more or less sweet. 
 
168 &VERY WOMAN HER OWN COOX. 
 
 Chocolate Ice-cream. For one gallon of ice-cream, grate 
 fine about one-half cake of Baker's chocolate ; make ice- 
 cream as for the recipe above ; flavor lightly with vanilla 
 and stir in the chocolate. 
 
 Strawberry Ice-cream. Mash one pint of fresh, ripe straw- 
 berries ; sprinkle them with half a pound of fine sugar ; let 
 it stand about an hour ; strain though a fine sieve, or a 
 cloth ; if the sugar is not dissolved, stir it well ; add a little 
 water; stir this juice into the cream prepared as above and 
 freeze. 
 
 Raspberry Ice-cream. Make the same as strawberry, sub- 
 stituting the raspberries merely. 
 
 Peach Ice-cream. Take fine, ripe freestone peaches ; pare, 
 chop fine, mash, and work as for strawberry cream. 
 
 Pine-apple Ice-cream. Pare the fruit, shred fine, and work as 
 in strawberry cream. 
 
 Orange Water-ice. Take one dozen oranges; grate the 
 skin and squeeze out the juice; add six quarts of water 
 and ten ounces of white sugar to each quart of water ; mix 
 well and put into the freezer. Be careful to stir steadily 
 while freezing, or the mixture will cake into lumps. The 
 amount of sugar and of orange-juice may be varied to suit 
 taste. 
 
 Lemon Water-ice, To one quart of water, add the juice of 
 four lemons and one pound of sugar. Then proceed as 
 above. Currants, raspberries, strawberries, and all the juicy 
 fruits may be treated in the same way. 
 
 Tutti Frutti One quart of rich cream, one and one-half 
 ounces of sweet almonds, chopped fine ; one-half pound 
 tf sugar ; freeze, and when sufficiently congealed, add one- 
 
CREAMS, JELLIES* AND LIGHT DESSERTS. 109 
 
 half pound of preserved fruits, with a few white raisins 
 chopped, and finely sliced citron. Cut the fruit small, and 
 mix well with the cream. Freeze like ice-cream, and keep 
 on ice until required. 
 
 Frozen Fruits. Take two quarts of rich cream and two 
 teacupfuls of sugar, mix well together and put into a freezer 
 with ice and salt packed around it. Have ready one quart 
 of peaches, mashed and sweetened. When the cream is 
 very cold, stir them in and freeze all together. Strawberries 
 can be used in the same way, but will require more sugar. 
 Cherries are specially delightful in this form. 
 
 WMpped Cream. To one quart of cream whipped very 
 thick, add powdered sugar to taste ; then add one tumbler 
 of wine. Make just before using. 
 
 Italian Cream. Divide two pints of cream equally in two 
 bowls ; with one bowl mix six ounces of powdered sugar, 
 the juice of two large lemons, and two glassfuls of white 
 wine ; then add the other pint of cream, and stir the whole 
 very hard ; boil two ounces of isinglass with four small tea- 
 cupfuls of water till reduced one-half; then stir the isinglass, 
 lukewarm, in the other ingredients ; put them in a glass dish 
 to harden. 
 
 Syllabnb. Whip a small cupful of powdered sugar into a 
 quart of rich cream, and another cupful of sugar into the 
 whites of four eggs. Mix these together, and add a glass 
 of white wine and flavoring to taste. 
 
 Spanish Cream. Three half-pints of milk, half a box of 
 gelatine, five tablespoonfuls of white sugar, three eggs, and 
 two teaspoonfuls of vanilla. Soak the gelatine in cold milk ; 
 put on to boil ; when boiling, add the yelks of the eggs 
 with the sugar and flavoring extract beaten together. When 
 it thickens to the consistency of cream, or after about three 
 
170 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 minutes' boiling, take off the fire, and stir in the whites of 
 the eggs well beaten. Pour into molds, and set aside to 
 cool. To be eaten cold, with or without cream. 
 
 Tapioca Cream. Soak half a cupful of tapioca in water 
 over night. Let a quart of milk get steaming hot, and add 
 to it the tapioca. Let it boil three minutes, then mix five 
 tablespoonfuls of white sugar with the yelks of four eggs ; 
 stir them into the milk and tapioca, and let it come to a boil 
 again. Beat the whites up stiff; stir them rapidly and 
 thoroughly through the boiling tapioca; add two table- 
 spoonfuls of wine and a pinch of salt. Let it stand till 
 cold and garnish with macaroons. 
 
 Orange Cream. Put half a box of gelatine to soak for halt 
 an hour in cold water enough to cover it. Take three half- 
 pints of cream, whip half of it, and heat the other half; dis- 
 solve the gelatine in the heated cream ; then strain it, and 
 return to the boiler again. Take the yelks of five egpgs and 
 a cupful of sugar ; beat them together till light, and add to 
 the boiling cream ; cook about two minutes, stirring: con- 
 stantly ; take from the fire, and while it cooks, stir in the 
 whipped cream and the juice of four oranges, and pour into 
 a mold to stiffen. Stir the cream constantly before putting 
 into the mold, to prevent it from thickening in lumps. 
 
 Pink Cream. Three gills of strawberry or currant juice ; 
 mix with one-half pound of powdered sugar, one-half pint of 
 thick cream ; whisk until well mixed ; serve in a glass dish. 
 
 Chocolate Bavarian Cream. Whip one pint of cream to a 
 stiff froth, laying it on a sieve; boil a pint of rich milk with 
 a vanilla bean and two tablespoonfuls of sugar until it is well 
 flavored ; then take it off the fire and add half a box of gela- 
 tine, soaked for an hour in half a cupful of water in a warm 
 place near the range ; when slightly cooled, add two tablets 
 of Baker's chocolate, soaked and smoothed. Stir in the eggs 
 
CREAMS, JELLIES, *ND LIGHT DESSERTS. 
 
 well-beaten. When it has become quite cold and begins to 
 thicken, stir it without ceasing a few minutes, until it is very 
 smooth ; then stir in the whipped cream lightly until it is 
 well mixed. Put it into a mold or molds, and set it on ice 
 or in a cool place. 
 
 Turret Cream. Soak one box of gelatine in a cupful ol 
 milk four hours. Scald three cupfuls of milk; add one cup- 
 ful of the sugar ; when this is dissolved, add the soaked 
 gelatine. Stir over the fire until almost boiling hot ; strain 
 and divide into two equal portions. Return one to the fire 
 and heat quickly. When it nears the boiling-point, stir in 
 the beaten yelks of three eggs. Let all cook together two 
 minutes, and turn out into a bowl to cool. When it has 
 cooled, churn one pint of cream very stiff, and beat the 
 whites of the eggs until they will stand alone. Divide the 
 latter into two heaps. As the yellow gelatine begins to 
 " form," whip one-half of the whites into it, a little at a time. 
 To the white gelatine add the rest of the whites in the same 
 manner, alternately with the whipped cream. Season the 
 yellow with vanilla, the white with lemon juice beaten in at 
 the last. Wet the inside of a tall, fluted mold with water, 
 and arrange in the bottom, close to the outside of the mold, 
 a row of crystallized cherries. Then put in a layer of the 
 white mixture; on this crystallized apricots or peaches cut 
 into strips ; a layer of the yellow, another border of cherries, 
 and so on until your mold is full. When firm, which will be 
 in a few hours if set on ice, wrap a cloth wrung out in hot 
 water about the mold, and invert upon a flat dish. Eat with 
 sweet cream, or, if you like, with brandied fruit. Not only 
 is this a very palatable dish, but it is also very beautiful, well 
 repaying the trouble of its preparation. 
 
 Velvet Cream. Half an ounce of isinglass dissolved in one 
 and a half cupfuls of white wine ; then add the juice and 
 grated peel of a lemon, three-quarters of a pound of loaf 
 
172 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 sugar ; simmer all together until mixed well ; strain and add 
 one and a half pints of rich cream, and stir until cool ; pour 
 into molds, and let it stand till stiff enough to turn out. 
 
 Calf's Foot Jelly. Take one pair of calf's feet, and put 
 them into a gallon of water ; let it boil half away and skim 
 constantly ; strain it when cold ; take the fat from the top 
 and bottom ; then warm it ; add sugar, the juice of three 
 lemons, a pint of Madeira wine, and the whites of seven 
 eggs ; boil it half an hour, strain through a flannel bag, and 
 cool in molds. 
 
 Wine Jelly. One box of Coxe's gelatine dissolved in one 
 pint of cold water, one pint of wine, one quart of boiling 
 water, two cupfuls of granulated sugar, and three lemons. 
 Cool in molds. 
 
 Wine Jelly, No. 2. Soak one package of sparkling gelatine 
 in a large cupful of cold water. Add to this all the juice 
 and half the rind of a lemon, two cupfuls of white sugar, and 
 a half teaspoonful of bitter almond or two peach leaves, and 
 cover for half an hour ; then pour on boiling water, stir, and 
 strain. After adding two cupfuls of pale sherry or white 
 wine, strain again through a flannel bag. Wet a mold and 
 set it in a cold place until the next day. 
 
 Jelly Oranges. Soak a package of Coxe's gelatine about 
 three hours in a cup of cold water. Cut from the top of each 
 of a dozen fine oranges a round piece, leaving a hole just 
 large enough to admit the bowl of a small spoon or the 
 handle of a larger. The smaller the orifice, the better your 
 dish will look. Clean out every bit of the pulp very care- 
 fully, so as not to tear the edges of the hole. Scrape the 
 inner skin from the sides with your fore-finger, and when the 
 oranges are emptied lay them in cold water while you make 
 the jelly. Strain the juice of all and grated peel of three of 
 the oranges through coarse, thin muslin over three cupfuls 
 of sugar, squeezing rather hard to get the coloring matter* 
 
JLLLIES, AND LIGHT DESSERTS. J73 
 
 Stir this until it is a thick sirup, and add a quarter teaspoon- 
 ful of cinnamon. Pour two cupfuls of boiling water upon the 
 soaked gelatine, and stir over the fire until well dissolved ; 
 add the juice and sugar, stir all together, and strain through 
 a flannel bag into a pitcher, not shaking or squeezing it, lest 
 it should become cloudy. Wipe off the outside of the 
 oranges, set them close together in a dish, the open ends 
 uppermost, and fill very full with the warm jelly, as it will 
 shrink in cooling. Set it away in a cold place where there 
 is no dust. Next day cut each in half with a sharp knife, 
 taking care to sever the skin all around before cutting into 
 the jelly. If neatly divided, the rich amber jelly will be a 
 fail 1 counterfeit of the orange pulp. Pile in a glass dish, 
 with green leaves around, as you would the real fruit. This 
 is a delicious dish, and it is highly ornamental on the table. 
 
 Apple Jelly. Soak half a package Coxe's gelatine in one 
 cupful of cold water. Pare, core, and slice a dozen well- 
 flavored pippins, throwing each piece into cold water as it 
 is cut to preserve the color. Pack them in a glass or stone- 
 ware jar with just cold water enough to cover them ; cover 
 the jar loosely that the steam may escape ; set in a pot of 
 warm water and bring to a boil. Cook until the apples are 
 broken into pieces. Have ready in a bowl the soaked gela- 
 tine, two cupfuls of powdered sugar, the juice of two lemons, 
 and the grated peel of one. Strain the apple pulp scalding 
 hot over them ; stir until the gelatine is dissolved ; strain 
 again through a flannel bag, without shaking or squeezing 
 it ; wet a mold with cold water, fill it, and set in a cold 
 place until firm. This preparation is greatly improved if 
 formed in a mold with a cylinder in the centre, the cavity 
 being filled and heaped with whipped cream or syllabub. 
 
 Peach Jelly. Proceed as in apple jelly, using peache^ 
 with a few peach-kernels broken up and boiled with the 
 fruit 
 
174 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 Lemon Jelly. Stir together two large cupfuls of sugar, the 
 juice of six lemons and grated peel of two, and a package of 
 well-soaked gelatine. Cover for an hour. Pour three pints 
 of boiling water over them ; stir until the gelatine is quite 
 melted ; strain through a close flannel bag, and pour into a 
 wet mold. 
 
 Orange Jelly. Soak a package of gelatine in two cupfuls 
 of water ; add two cupfuls of sugar, the juice of six large 
 oranges, and grated peel of one, the juice of two lemons, 
 and peel of one, and cover for an hour. Pour three pints 
 of boiling water over them ; stir until the gelatine is quite 
 melted; strain through a flannel bag; add a little good 
 brandy if desired and strain again ; pour into a wet mold. 
 
 Orange Trifle. Stir half a package of soaked gelatine into 
 a cupful of boiling water. Mix the juice of two oranges 
 and rind of one with a cupful of powdered sugar, and pour 
 the hot liquid over them. Should the gelatine not dissolve 
 readily, set all over the fire and stir until clear. Strain, and 
 stir in the beaten yelks of three eggs. Heat quickly within 
 a vessel of boiling water, stirring constantly lest the yelks 
 curdle. If they do curdle, strain again through coarse flan- 
 nel. Set aside until perfectly cold and slightly stiff, then 
 whip in a pint of frothed cream. Wet a mold, fill, and set it 
 on ice. 
 
 Orange Dessert Pare five or six oranges ; cut into thin 
 slices ; pour over them a coffeecupful of sugar. Boil one 
 pint of milk ; add, while boiling, the yelks of three eggs; 
 one tablespoonful of corn-starch (made smooth with a little 
 cold milk) ; stir all the time ; as soon as thickened, pour 
 over the fruit. Beat the whites of the eggs to a froth ; add 
 two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar ; pour over the cus- 
 tard, and brown slightly in the oven. Serve cold 
 
CREAMS, JELLIES, AND LIGHT DESSERTS. 175 
 
 Apple Snow. Grate half a dozen apples to a pulp ; press 
 them through a sieve ; add half a cupful of powdered sugar 
 and a teaspoonful of extract of lemon ; take the whites of 
 six eggs, whip them for several minutes, and sprinkle two 
 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar over them; beat the 
 apple pulp to a froth, and add the beaten egg ; whip the 
 mixture until it looks like stiff snow ; then pile it higfy in 
 rough portions on a glass dish ; garnish with small spoonfuls 
 of currant jelly. 
 
 Floating Island. Beat the yelks of six eggs until very 
 light ; sweeten and flavor to taste ; stir into a quart of boil- 
 ing milk ; cook till it thickens ; when cool, pour into a low 
 glass dish ; whip the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth ; 
 sweeten, and place over a dish of boiling water to cook. 
 Take a tablespoon and drop on the whites of the cream, far 
 enough apart so that the " little white islands " will not 
 touch each other. By dropping little specks of bright 
 jelly on each island a pleasing effect will be produced. 
 
 Blanc-mange. Take one quart of milk, one ounce gelatine, 
 and sugar to sweeten to taste ; put it on the fire, and keep 
 stirring until it is all melted, then pour it into a bowl and 
 stir until cold ; season with vanilla ; pour it into a mold, 
 and set in a cool place to stiffen. 
 
 Tapioca Blanc-mange. Take one pint of new milk, half a 
 pound of the best farina-tapioca soaked in water four 
 hours, three-fourths of a cupful of sugar, two teaspoonfuls of 
 almond or vanilla extract, a little salt. Heat the milk, and 
 stir the soaked tapioca. When it has dissolved, add the 
 sugar. Boil slowly fifteen minutes, stirring all the time ; 
 take from the fire, and beat until nearly cold. Flavor and 
 pour into a mold dipped in cold water. Sago blanc-mange 
 may be made in the same manner; 
 
176 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 Corn-starch Blanc-mange. One quart of milk, four tables 
 spoonfuls of corn-starch, wet with a little water, three eggs, 
 whites and yelks beaten separately, one cupful of sugar, a 
 little salt, flavor with lemon extract Heat the milk to boil- 
 ing ; stir in the corn-starch and salt, and boil together five 
 minutes ; then add the yelks, beaten light, with the sugar ; 
 boil two minutes longer, stirring all the while ; remove the 
 mixture from the fire, and beat in the whipped whites while 
 it is boiling hot. Pour into a mold wet with cold water, 
 and set in a cold place. Eat with sugar and cream. 
 
 Chocolate Blanc-mange. Heat a quart of milk; stir in 
 a cupful of sugar and half a package of soaked gelatine ; 
 strain through flannel ; add three large spoonfuls of grated 
 chocolate ; boil ten minutes, stirring all the time. When 
 nearly cold, beat until it begins to stiffen. Flavor with 
 vanilla ; whip up once, and put into a wet mold. It will be 
 firm in six or eight hours. 
 
 Neapolitan Blanc-mange. Dissolve one-third of a box of 
 gelatine, and stir into one quart of milk. Add three-fourths 
 of a cupful of sugar. As soon as the gelatine is thoroughly 
 dissolved, remove from the fire, and divide into three parts. 
 Flavor one with vanilla ; color another with the beaten yelk 
 of one egg; color the third with grated chocolate. Set 
 away, and when quite cold and a little stiff, pour into a 
 mold first the white, then the yellow, and last the brown. 
 
 Peach Meringne. Put on to boil a scant quart of new milk, 
 omitting half a teacupful, with which moisten two table- 
 spoonfuls of corn-starch. When the milk boils, add corn- 
 starch, stir constantly, and when it commences to thicken, 
 remove from the fire ; add one tablespoonful of perfectly 
 sweet butter ; let cool ; then beat in the yelks of three eggs 
 until the custard seems light and creamy ; add one-half tea- 
 cupful of fine sugar ; cover the bottom of a well-buttered 
 baking-dish with ripe, juicy peaches, that have been pared, 
 
CREAMS, JELLIES, AND LIGH'f DESSERTS. 177 
 
 xoned, and halved ; sprinkle two tablespoonfuls of sugar 
 yer the fruit, pour the custard over gently, and bake in a 
 quick oven twenty minutes ; draw it out, and cover with the 
 well-beaten whites of the three eggs ; sprinkle a little fine 
 sugar over the top, and set in the oven until brown. Eat 
 warm with sauce, or cold with cream. 
 
 Charlotte Russe. Dissolve half a box of gelatine in cold 
 water. Beat the yelks of four eggs with two cupfuls of 
 white sugar. Whip one quart of sweet cream very stiff, 
 add flavoring, then the yelks and sugar, and blend all the 
 ingredients. Add the whites, turn into a bowl lined with 
 sponge cake or lady-fingers, and set away to cool. 
 
 Charlotte Russe, No. 2. Two tablespoonfuls gelatine soaked 
 in a little cold milk two hours ; two coffeecupfuls rich cream ; 
 one teacupful milk. Whip the cream stiff in a large bowl 
 or dish ; set on ice. Boil the milk and pour gradually over 
 the gelatine until dissolved, then strain ; when nearly cold 
 add the whipped cream, a spoonful at a time. Sweeten with 
 pulverized sugar and flavor with vanilla. Line a dish with 
 lady-fingers or sponge cake ; pour in the cream and set in a 
 cool place to harden. 
 
 Chocolate Charlotte Russe. Soak in cold water one ounce 
 of isinglass or of gelatine ; shave down three ounces of the 
 best chocolate, without spice or sugar, and mix it gradually 
 into one pint of cream, adding the soaked isinglass ; set the 
 cream, chocolate, and isinglass over the fire in a porcelain 
 kettle, and boil slowly till the isinglass is dissolved, and the 
 whole well mixed'; take it off the fire and let it cool ; have 
 ready eight yelks of eggs and four whites beaten together 
 until very light ; stir them gradually into the mixture with 
 half a pound of powdered sugar ; simmer the whole, but do 
 not let it boil ; then take it off, and whip to a strong froth ; 
 line the molds with sponge cake, fill with the paste, and set 
 them on ice. 
 
 13 
 
178 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 Figs a la Genevieve. Dissolve two ounces of best sugar 
 in half a pint of cold water in an enameled stewpan, with 
 half the very thin rind of a large lemon ; when this is done, 
 put into it half a pound of Turkey figs, and put the stew- 
 pan over a moderate fire, so that the figs may stew very 
 slowly ; when quite soft, add one glassful of common port 
 or any other wine, and the strained juice of half a lemon ; 
 serve them cold for dessert. About two hours or two hours 
 and a half is the average time for stewing the figs, and the 
 flavor may be varied by using orange peel and juice in- 
 stead of lemon, and by boiling two or three bitter almonds 
 in the sirup. 
 
 Biscuit Glace. Make a quart of rich boiled custard, flavor 
 it with vanilla, and let it cool. Then mix with it a quart of 
 grated pineapple or mashed peaches. Stir them well to- 
 gether, and add enough sugar to allow for the loss in freez- 
 ing. Freeze in the usual way, stirring in a pint of cream, 
 whipped, when it is beginning to set in the freezer. Partly 
 fill little paper cases with the mixture, and smooth the tops 
 nicely. Place them carefully in the cleaned and dried freezer, 
 and let them remain embedded in ice for several hours. 
 Sometimes the cases are filled with pistachio or chocolate 
 ice-cream, in which case blanched almonds are laid over the 
 top, when they are served. Or they may be filled with 
 frozen whipped cream, and served with a spoonful of sonit 
 bright sherbet upon the top of each. 
 
Xni. CAKES AND CAKE-BAKING. 
 
 BEST MATERIALS REQUISITE FOR CAKE-MAKING; WHAT THEY 
 SHOULD BE; WEIGHING AND MEASURING INGREDIENTS; HOW 
 TO MIX CAKE; FRUITS AND FLAVORS FOR CAKE; HOW TO BAKE 
 CAKE ; HOW TO TEST IT ; HOW TO KEEP IT ; HOW TO ICE IT. 
 NINETY-SEVEN RECIPES FOR CAKES. 
 
 IN cake-making it is absolutely essential that the best 
 materials be employed. Stale eggs, strong butter, musty 
 flour, or common sugar are not so much as to be 
 thought of in this connection. The idea that such refuse 
 " will do for cooking " is most unworthy. When a luxury, 
 such as cake, is attempted, the maker should certainly be 
 willing to luxuriate in acceptable ingredients. 
 
 Flour for cake should be white and dry. It should always 
 be carefully sifted. Sugar should be white, dry, and free 
 from lumps. Eggs and butter should be sweet and fresh ; 
 the milk rich and pure. Fruit and extracts must be of the 
 best. The weighing and measuring of ingredients must be 
 accurately done. Guessing at quantities has spoiled many 
 a cake. 
 
 For mixing cake, an earthen or wooden dish and a 
 wooden spoon are requisite. Butter and sugar should be 
 beaten together to a cream before using. Butter may be 
 softened for this purpose, if too hard to manage readily, but 
 it must not be melted. Whites and yelks of eggs must be 
 beaten separately, until there is no stringiness visible, and 
 the froth can be taken up on a spoon. Beat eggs in a broad, 
 shallow dish, and in a cool place. It is well to lay the eggs 
 in cold water for an hour before beating them, as they will 
 beat the lighter for such treatment. Sweet milk is best for 
 
 179 
 
180 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COO 1C. 
 
 solid cake ; sour milk, for light cake. The two should never 
 be mixed. 
 
 Baking-powder should be mixed dry through the flour. 
 Soda and cream of tartar should be dissolved in milk. 
 Flavoring extracts, fruit, and spices must be added the last 
 thing, and fruit should always be well sprinkled with flour 
 before it is put in the dough. Currants and such fruit 
 should be washed, picked over, and dried before using. 
 Almonds should be blanched by pouring boiling water over 
 them till they pop from their skins. Cake should be beaten 
 as little as possible after the flour has been added. When 
 it requires long baking, the bottom and sides of the pan 
 should be lined with paper well buttered. This will insure 
 the easy turning out of the cake when done. 
 
 Much of the success in cake-baking depends on the heat- 
 ing of the oven. If the oven is very hot when the cake 
 goes in, it will bake on top before it becomes light. If the 
 oven is too cool, it will rise and fall again before done. If 
 the top of the cake browns too fast, cover it with thick 
 paper. Try it by inserting a broom-splinter or knitting- 
 needle in the thickest part of the cake, and if nothing ad- 
 heres when it is drawn out, it is done. Turn out of the tins 
 at once, taking care not to expose the cake to draft. 
 
 Cake should be kept in earthen pans or crocks, or tin 
 boxes, but never in wooden boxes or drawers. It will keep 
 better for being wrapped in a cloth, and more than is needed 
 should not be cut. 
 
 Cake that is to be frosted should be baked in pans with 
 perpendicular sides. The icing should be put on as soon 
 as the cake is removed from the oven. This will insure its 
 drying smooth and hard. 
 
 RECIPES. 
 
 Loaf Dutch Cake. Take one cupful of light bread dough, 
 tie egg, sugar and salt to taste, half a teaspoonful of soda, 
 
CAKES AtfD CARE-*BAKING. 
 
 half a pound of raisins, and, if desired, a little butter and 
 nutmeg ; work all together very smooth ; let the dough rise 
 about half an hour, and bake as bread. 
 
 Bread Cake. Two coffeecupfuls of bread dough, two tea- 
 cupfuls of sugar, two eggs, one teacupful of butter, two tea* 
 spoonfuls essence of lemon, one nutmeg, a teaspoonful each 
 of cloves, cinnamon, and allspice, a wineglass of brandy, 
 and a coffeecupful of raisins. Let it rise before baking. 
 
 Cinnamon Bun. Put one pint of milk on to boil and mix 
 a cupful of butter in a little lukewarm water ; add a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and half an yeast cake dissolved in luke- 
 warm water ; add two quarts of sifted flour; mix all together, 
 and let it stand over night till morning. Now beat two 
 eggs and half a cupful of sugar until light, and mix it with 
 the dough; use just flour enough on the board to keep the 
 dough from sticking ; roll the dough out into a sheet one- 
 fourth of an inch in thickness ; spread a little butter, and 
 sprinkle a little sugar on it, then some pulverized cinnamon, 
 a few currants or chopped raisins. Now roll the sheet up 
 into one long roll and cut in pieces about one inch thick ; a 
 sharp knife must be used for this purpose ; put the pieces in 
 a baking-pan, the cut side or end downward, and let them 
 stand in a warm place for an hour, when they will be ready 
 for the oven, which must be moderately heated. 
 
 Soft Molasses Cake. Into one pint of molasses, put one 
 tablespoonful of ginger, one teaspoonful of cinnamon, one 
 tablespoonful of butter ; add one teaspoonful of soda and 
 two teaspoonfuls cream of tartar in one-half cupful of milk, 
 one egg, and two and a half cupfuls of flour. Bake half an 
 hour. 
 
 Gingerbread. One cupful of molasses, one cupful of but- 
 ter, two cupfuls of sugar, one cupful of sour milk, four eggs, 
 three cupfuls of flour, one tablespoonful of ginger, and one 
 teaspoonful of soda. Mix well and bake quickly. 
 
182 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 Ginger Snaps. Mix one pint of flour, one cupful of sugar, 
 a piece of butter the size of two eggs ; three heaping table* 
 spoonfuls of ginger, and a little salt. Pour into this two 
 cupfuls of heated molasses. Add flour enough to make it 
 roll out thin. Bake three or four minutes. 
 
 Cookies. Six cupfuls of flour, two of sugar, one of butter, 
 one of milk, teaspoonful of soda, flavored with cinnamon 
 or nutmeg, as you like. Roll thin, cut with biscuit-cutter, 
 and bake quick. 
 
 Small Sugar Cakes. One heaping teacupful of sugar; 
 three-quarters teacupful of butter; one-quarter teacupful 
 sweet milk ; two eggs, well beaten ; two teaspoonful s cream 
 tartar ; one teaspoonful soda, dissolved in hot water ; use 
 flour sufficient to enable you to roll out the dough ; one 
 saltspoonful salt, nutmeg and cinnamon to taste. Cut into 
 round cakes and bake quickly. 
 
 Knickerbocker Cakes. Beat half a pound of fresh butter to 
 a cream ; add half a pound of powdered sugar, three-quarters 
 of a pound of sifted flour, a tablespoonful of orange-flower 
 water, and one of brandy, and four ounces of washed cur- 
 rants ; add five well-beaten eggs, and beat the mixture until 
 very light. Line some shallow cake-tins with buttered 
 paper, pour in the mixture until they are half full, and bake 
 in a quick oven. 
 
 Scotch Wafers. Take one pound of sugar, half a pound 
 of butter, one pound of flour, two eggs, two teaspoonfuls of 
 cinnamon. Roll thin and bake quickly. 
 
 Shrewsbury Cakes. Mix a pound of flour and a half 
 pound of butter ; stir in a pound of brown sugar and two 
 tablespoonfuls of cinnamon. Mix all thoroughly into a 
 paste with three eggs, roll very thin, using as little flour as 
 possible, and bake in a quick oven. 
 
CAKES AND CAKE-BAKING. 
 
 Soft Cookies. One egg, two cupfuls of sugar, two cupfuls 
 of cream, one even teaspoonful of soda, salt and flavor to 
 taste. Flour to stiffen so they will drop from the spoon ; leave 
 a space between them, as they spread in baking. 
 
 Apees. One cupful of butter, one large cupful of sugar, 
 three eggs, half a teaspoonful of soda, one teaspoonful of 
 cream tartar, and flour enough to roll out thin. Bake 
 quickly. 
 
 Cinnamon Cakes. Take six ounces of butter, a pound of 
 fine, dry flour, three-quarters of a pound of sifted sugar, 
 and a dessertspoonful of pounded cinnamon. Make these 
 ingredients into a firm paste with three eggs, or four, if 
 needed. Roll it, not very thin, and cut out the cakes with 
 a tin shape. Bake them in a very gentle oven from fifteen 
 to twenty minutes, or longer, should they not be done quite 
 through. 
 
 Lemon Cakes. Lemon cakes can be made on the above 
 recipe by substituting for the cinnamon the rasped or grated 
 rinds of two lemons, and the strained juice of one, when its 
 acidity is not objected to. 
 
 Seed Cakes. Two pounds of flour, one pound of sugar, 
 fourteen ounces of butter, one tablespoonful of caraway 
 seed, half a pint of milk, two tablespoonfuls of saleratus. 
 Rub the butter, sugar, and flour together, then add all the 
 other ingredients ; knead all well together into a smooth 
 dough ; roll it out quite thin, cut with a round cutter, place 
 the cakes on tins, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 
 Walnut Cakes. One pound of sugar, six eggs, three tea. 
 spoonfuls of yeast-powder, half a pound of butter, flour to 
 make a dough, and one cupful of walnut kernels ; bake in a 
 moderate oven. 
 
 Jumbles. Three-fourths of a cupful of butter, one and a 
 half cupfuls of sugar, three eggs, three tablespoonfuls of 
 
184 EVERV WOMAN HER OWtt COOtf. 
 
 milk, flour enough to make it roll, and a teaspoonful of bak- 
 ing-powder ; roll ; sprinkle with granulated sugar and gently 
 roll it in ; cut out, with a hole in centre, and bake. 
 
 Currant Jumbles. One pound each of flour and powderecj 
 loaf sugar, half a pound each of butter and currants, eight 
 eggs, brandy to taste ; cut out as in plain jumbles and bake 
 on tins. 
 
 Cocoamit Cookies. One cupful of butter, two cupfuls of 
 sugar, two cupfuls of prepared or grated cocoanut, two 
 eggs, flour enough to make a stiff batter, and one teaspoon- 
 ful of soda ; drop on buttered paper in pans. 
 
 Doughnuts. Two teacupfuls of sugar, three eggs, one and 
 a half teacupfuls of buttermilk or sour milk, two teaspoon- 
 fuls of saleratus, one teaspoonful of salt, six tablespoonfuls 
 of melted lard, flour enough to roll out nicely ; boil or fry 
 in lard enough to cover them. If not well covered in the 
 cooking they will be tough. 
 
 Raised Doughnuts. One pint of sweet milk, one half pint 
 of lard, one pint of sugar, three eggs. Mix soft at night, 
 using the milk, one-half the sugar and lard, and one-half 
 pint of yeast. In the morning, add the rest with the eggs, 
 one nutmeg, two tablespoonfuls of whisky, and a little 
 soda. Knead well, and allow to rise. When light, roll out 
 thin, and after cutting, let rise again before frying. One- 
 half beef suet and one-half lard is better to fry them in than 
 all lard. 
 
 Crullers. Two cupfuls of sugar, one-half cupful of butter, 
 one-half cupful of milk, two eggs, one teaspoonful of soda, 
 two of cream tartar. Roll out, and cut according to fancy, 
 and boil in fat. 
 
 French Straws. Mix well eight eggs, ten ounces of sugar, 
 and half a teaspoonful of cinnamon and nutmeg with flo'ir 
 enough to form a dough ; beat the eggs very thick and add 
 
CAKES AND CAKE-BAKING. 185 
 
 the sugar, spices, and flour ; knead well, and roll to about 
 half an inch thick ; cut in strips, give each a twist, and boil 
 them in plenty of lard to a rich yellow ; sift sugar on when 
 cool. 
 
 Love Knots. Five cupfuls of flour, two of sugar, one of 
 butter, a piece of lard the size of an egg, two eggs, three 
 tablespoonfuls of sweet milk, half a teaspoonful of soda; rub 
 the butter, sugar, and flour together fine, add the other in- 
 gredients, roll thin, cut in strips one inch wide and five 
 inches long, lap across in true-love knots, and bake in a 
 quick oven. 
 
 One, Two, Tliree, Four Cake. One cupful of butter, two cup. 
 fuls of sugar, three cupfuls of flour, four eggs ; rub well to- 
 gether, and add some milk or cream, with one teaspoonful 
 of soda and two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar ; flavor 
 with grated lemon rind and juice ; bake carefully in a quick 
 oven. 
 
 Tea Cake. Three and a half cupfuls of flour, two of sugar, 
 one of butter, four eggs, a teaspoonful of soda in a table- 
 spoonful of milk or wine, and a half grated nutmeg. Bake 
 carefully in quick oven. 
 
 Tumbler Cake. Five tumblerfuls of flour, three of sugar, 
 two of butter, four eggs, one of milk, one pint and a half of 
 raisins, stoned, one nutmeg, one teaspoonful of allspice, a 
 teaspoonful of soda dissolved in the milk. Bake in deep pan 
 with a hot oven. 
 
 Cider Cake. Two cupfuls of sugar, one cupful of butter, 
 five eggs, one and one-half cupfuls of cider, with one tea- 
 spoonful of soda dissolved in it ; spices or nutmeg to taste ; 
 four and one-half cupfuls of flour, two cupfuls of fruit. Bake 
 quickly. 
 
 Puff Cake. Two cupfuls of sugar, one of butter, one of 
 sweet milk, three of flour, three eggs, one and one-half tea- 
 spoonfuls ^f yeast powder, extract of lemon. Bake q 
 
186 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 Pinafore Cake. One cupful of butter, three half cupfuls oi 
 sugar, three half cupfuls of flour, one-half cupful of corn- 
 starch, one-half cupful of milk, four eggs, one teaspoonful of 
 cream of tartar, one-half teaspoonful of soda, and a pinch 
 of salt Flavor to taste. 
 
 Cork Cake. Two cupfuls of sugar, two-thirds of a cupful 
 of butter, three eggs, one cupful of warm milk, three cupfula 
 of flour, a teaspoonful of baking-powder, and a half pound 
 of currants. Use the whites of two of the eggs for icing, 
 and put the yelks into the cake. 
 
 Poor Man's Cake. One cupful of cream, one of sugar, two 
 of flour, one egg, one teaspoonful of soda, and two of cream 
 tartar. 
 
 Cup Cake. One cupful of butter, two cupfuls of sugar, 
 half a cupful of molasses, one teaspoonful of soda, two of 
 cream tartar in half a cup of milk, two eggs, and two and 
 a half cups of flour. 
 
 Moravian Cake. Two cupfuls of sugar, one cupful of but- 
 ter, five eggs, two cupfuls of flour, half a cupful of sour milk, 
 one teaspoonful of cream tartar, and half a teaspoonful of 
 soda. Flavor with a little grated nutmeg and a teaspoonful 
 of vanilla. 
 
 Silver Cake. Whites of twelve eggs, five cupfuls of flour, 
 three cupfuls of sugar, one cupful of butter, one and one- 
 half cupfuls of sweet milk, one teaspoonful of soda, two tea- 
 spoonfuls of cream tartar, one teaspoonful of almond 
 extract. 
 
 Gold Cake. Substitute the yelks for whites of eggs, and 
 flavor with vanilla, then make it same as preceding recipe. 
 
 Lincoln Cake. Two cupfuls of sugar, half a cupful of but- 
 ter, two eggs, one cupful of cream or sour milk, three cup- 
 fuls of flour, one teaspoonful of cream tartar, half a tea- 
 epppnful pf soda, and pne teaspopnful pf essence 
 
CAKES AND CAKE-BAKING. 187 
 
 Washington Cake. One pound of flour, one pound of 
 sugar, half a pound of butter, five eggs, one pound of raisins, 
 one cupful of brandy and water, one teaspoonful of soda, two 
 of cream tartar. 
 
 Pound Cake. One pound of butter, one pound of sugar, 
 one pound of flour, and eight eggs. Bake one hour. 
 
 White Pound Cake. Beat to a cream one pound of sugar 
 and one-half pound of butter ; two teaspoonfuls of baking- 
 powder in one pound of flour ; whites of sixteen eggs beaten 
 very stiff and added last. Cover with frosting before it 
 cools. 
 
 Sponge Cake. Five eggs, half a pound of sugar, quarter 
 pound of flour, juice and rind of half a lemon. Beat yelks of 
 eggs, sugar, and lemon together till light ; add half the 
 beaten whites, then half the flour, the balance of the whites 
 and balance of flour. Avoid beating after the ingredients 
 are all together. 
 
 Almond Sponge Cake. Take half a pound of loaf sugar ; rub 
 the rind of a lemon on a few of the lumps, and crush the 
 whole to a powder ; separate the whites from the yelks of 
 five eggs, beat the yelks, and add the sugar gradually ; then 
 beat the whites to a stiff froth ; add it to the dish, and sift in 
 flour enough to make a batter; add a tablespoonful of 
 essence of almonds ; butter and paper a tin, pour in the mix- 
 ture until the tin is two-thirds full, and bake one hour in a 
 moderate oven. The bottom of the tin may be studded with 
 small pieces of almonds. 
 
 Cream Sponge Cake. Beat together a cupful of sugar and 
 the yelks of three eggs. Add a half teaspoonful of soda, 
 a teaspoonful of cream tartar, a cupful of flour, and the whites 
 of the eggs. Bake in three layers, and put between them 
 the following filling : One egg, a half cupful of cream, a 
 cupful of sugar, and a piece of butter the size of a walnut 
 
 Boil tUi like a cream, and when gpia flaypr t9 
 
188 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 Snow Cake. Take one pound of arrowroot, quarter of a 
 pound of powdered white sugar, half a pound of butter, the 
 whites of six eggs, flavoring to taste. Beat the butter to a 
 cream ; stir in the sugar and arrowroot gradually, at the 
 same time beating the mixture ; whisk the whites of the 
 eggs to a stiff froth ; add them to the other ingredients, and 
 beat well for twenty minutes ; flavor with essence of almond, 
 vanilla, or lemon, as may be preferred ; pour into a buttered 
 mold or tin, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 
 Spice Cake. One cupful each of butter and cold water, 
 three cupfuls of flour, two cupfuls of sugar, three eggs, one 
 teaspoonful of soda, two teaspoonfuls of ground cinnamon, 
 one-fourth pound each of currants and raisins. 
 
 Spice Cake, No. 2. One cupful of butter, two cupfuls of 
 sugar, four eggs, a teaspoonful of cream tartar, half a tea- 
 spoonful of soda, half a cupful of sour milk, one cupful of 
 molasses, three cupfuls of flour, a teaspoonful of ground 
 cloves, two teaspoonfuls of cinnamon, two teaspoonfuls of 
 ginger, one nutmeg, and a small pinch of Cayenne pepper. 
 
 Coffee Cake. One cupful of brown sugar, one cupful of 
 butter, one cupful of strained coffee, one cupful of molasses, 
 three eggs well beaten, one pound of raisins, two cupfuls of 
 flour, two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. 
 
 Wine Cake. Beat t,o a cream half a cupful of butter with 
 two full cups of powdered sugar ; add the yelks of four 
 eggs, and half a glass of sherry wine ; beat till very light ; 
 add half a cupful of cream with a pinch of soda in it ; beat 
 two minutes, and stir in very quickly the whites of the eggs, 
 three and a half cupfuls of prepared flour, and a little grated 
 nutmeg. 
 
 Fig Cake. One cupful butter, two and a half cupfuls 
 sugar, one cupful of milk, six cupfuls of flour, three tea- 
 spoonfuls baking-powder, whites of sixteen eggs, and, at the 
 
CAKES AND CAKE-BAKING. 189 
 
 last, one and a quarter pounds of figs, cut and floured. 
 Bake well but do not burn. 
 
 Walnut Cake. One coffeecupful of sugar, two of raisins 
 (stoned and chopped), one cupful and a half of flour, half a 
 cupful of butter, half a cupful of sweet milk, three eggs, 
 two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, half a nutmeg grated, 
 one teaspoonful of lemon or vanilla, one cup heaping full of 
 nuts, which must be cracked and picked, before anything 
 else is done to the cake. Bake slowly, with a buttered 
 paper in the bottom of the tin. 
 
 Hickorynut Cake. One pound of flour, three-quarters of a 
 pound of sugar, half a pound of butter, half a pint of milk, 
 five eggs, two quarts of hickorynuts, one teaspoonful of 
 soda, and two of cream tartar. 
 
 Cocoanut Cake. One pound of grated cocoanut, one pound 
 of sugar, one-half pound of butter, six eggs, three-quarters 
 of a pound of flour. Flavor to taste. 
 
 New Year's Cake. One and a quarter pound of raisins, 
 seeded, one and a quarter pounds of currants, half a pound 
 of sliced citron, half a pound of butter, half a pound of 
 brown sugar, half a pound of flour, five eggs, half a tumbler- 
 ful of brandy, half a bottle of rose-water, one teaspoonful of 
 cinnamon, two of cloves, two of mace, and a grated nut- 
 meg. 
 
 Currant Cake. One cupful of butter, two cupfuls of pow- 
 dered sugar, four eggs, half a cupful of sweet milk, three 
 cupfuls of prepared flour, half a nutmeg grated, and half a 
 pound of currants washed, dried, and dredged with flour. 
 
 Citron Cake. Six eggs, beaten light and the yelks strained; 
 two cupfuls of sugar, three-quarters of a cupful of butter, 
 two and one-half cupfuls of prepared flour, or enough to 
 make good pound cake batter. With some brands you may 
 need three cupfuls ; one-half pound of citron cut in thin 
 
190 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 shreds ; juice of an orange, and one teaspoonful of grated 
 peel. Cream the butter and sugar; add the yelks, the 
 whites, and flour by turns, then the orange, and lastly, the 
 citron, dredged with flour. Beat all up hard, and bake in 
 two loaves. 
 
 Plum Cake. Two and a half pounds of raisins, two and a 
 half pounds of currants, one pound of citron, one pound of 
 butter, one pound of sugar, ten eggs, one pound of flour, 
 one-half pint of brandy, and a little molasses. 
 
 Fruit Cake. Take of butter two cupfuls ; sugar, four cup- 
 fuls ; molasses, one cupful ; sour milk, two cupfuls ; flour, 
 eight cupfuls ; eggs, eight ; soda, one tablespoonful ; cloves, 
 two tablespoonfuls ; cinnamon, two tablespoonfuls ; raisins, 
 two pounds ; currants, two pounds ; almonds, one pound ; 
 citron, half a pound ; two nutmegs ; two lemons cut fine ; 
 bake four hours. 
 
 Wedding Cake. One pound of powdered sugar, one pound 
 of butter, one pound of flour, twelve eggs, one pound of cur- 
 rants well washed and dredged, one pound of raisins, 
 seeded and chopped, one-half pound of citron cut in slips, 
 one tablespoonful of cinnamon, two teaspoonfuls of nutmeg, 
 one teaspoonful of cloves, one wineglass of brandy. Cream 
 the butter and sugar, add the beaten yelks of the eggs, and 
 stir all well together before putting in half of the flour. The 
 spice should come next, then the whipped whites stirred in 
 alternately with the rest of the flour, lastly the brandy. 
 The above quantity is for two large cakes. Bake at least 
 two hours in deep tins lined with well-buttered paper. The 
 icing should be laid on stiffand thickly. Bake this well, and, 
 if kept in a cool, dry place, it will not spoil in two months. 
 Test the cakes well, and be sure they are quite done before 
 taking them from the oven. 
 
 Black Cake. One pound of browned flour, one pound of 
 sugar, one pound pf citron, two pounds of currants, 
 
CAKES AND CAKE-BAKING. 191 
 
 three pounds of stoned raisins, three-quarters of a pound of 
 butter, one teacupful of molasses, two teaspoonfuls of mace, 
 two teaspoonfuls of cinnamon, one teaspoonful of cloves, one 
 teaspoonful of soda, twelve eggs. 
 
 Farmers' Fruit Cake. Three cupfuls of dried apples, two 
 cupfuls of molasses, one cupful of butter, one cupful of 
 brown sugar, one pound of raisins, one quarter pound of 
 citron, two eggs, one lemon (both juice and rind), two 
 teaspoonfuls of soda, one pound and small cup of flour. 
 Soak the apples over night, chop fine, and boil till done in 
 the molasses and one cupful of the water they were soaked 
 in. Flavor with nutmeg, cinnamon, and a very little cloves. 
 Bake three hours. 
 
 Chocokte Cake. One cupful butter, two cupfuls sugar, two 
 and one-half cupfuls flour, five eggs, one cupful sour milk, 
 one teaspoonful soda, dissolved in a little boiling water ; 
 one-half cake Baker's chocolate, grated and put in the cake 
 before stirring in the flour, with one teaspoonful of vanilla. 
 Bake in jelly tins in four layers. 
 
 Chocolate Cake, No. 2. One cupful of butter, two cupfuls 
 of sugar, three cupfuls of flour, half cupful sweet milk, 
 half teaspoonful soda, one teaspoonful of cream tartar, 
 seven eggs. Bake in layers, and put between the layers the 
 following filling: Quarter of a pound of Baker's best 
 vanilla chocolate, one gill of sweet milk, one egg, sugar 
 to taste. Scald the gill of milk and the chocolate together ; 
 beat one egg thoroughly, and stir it in ; add sugar and 
 vanilla to taste. 
 
 Chocolate Cake, No. 3. Two cupfuls of sugar, one of but- 
 ter, five eggs, half a teaspoonful of soda, a teaspoonful 
 of cream tartar, half a cupful of sour milk. Grated nutmeg 
 and vanilla. Bake in layers, and put between the layers the 
 following filling : One cupful of Baker's chocolate, grated, 
 a mall cupfu} pf sugar, Put in a dry bowl, and 
 
192 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 the bowl in a pan of boiling water. Stir until the heat of 
 the bowl dissolves the chocolate and sugar into a thick 
 paste. Add a tablespoonful of clear table sirup and two 
 eggs well beaten. Let this cook in the boiling water about 
 ten minutes, then add two teaspoonfuls of vanilla. 
 
 Jelly Cake. Beat three eggs well, the whites and yelks 
 separately ; take a cupful of fine white sugar, and beat that 
 in well with the yelks, and a cupful of sifted flour, stirred in 
 gently ; then stir in the whites, a little at a time, and a tea- 
 spoonful of baking-powder and one tablespoonful of milk ; 
 pour it in three jelly-cake plates, and bake from five to ten 
 minutes in a well-heated oven, and when cold spread with 
 currant jelly, and place each layer on top of the other and 
 sift powdered sugar on the top. 
 
 Jelly Roll. Add one cupful of powdered sugar and one 
 cupful of flour to three well-beaten eggs ; stir well, and add 
 one teaspoonful of cream of tartar, half a teaspoonful of 
 saleratus dissolved in three teaspoonfuls of water ; bake in 
 two pie-pans ; spread as evenly as possible ; as soon as done, 
 turn the cake, bottom side up, on to a dry towel ; spread it 
 evenly with jelly, roll up quickly, and wrap closely in the 
 towel. 
 
 Peach Cake. Bake sponge cake in layers ; cut peaches in 
 very thin slices, and spread upon the cake; sweeten, flavor, 
 and whip some sweet cream, and spread over each layer 
 and over the top. 
 
 Pineapple Cake. One cupful of butter, two cupfuls of 
 sugar, one cupful milk, three cupfuls of flour, whites of six 
 eggs and yelks of four, three teaspoonfuls of baking-powder 
 well mixed through flour ; bake in jelly-cake pans ; grate a 
 pineapple ; sprinkle with sugar, spread between the layers ; 
 pineapple jam may be substituted ; frost the outside ; 
 beat two tablespoonfuls of the pineapple into the frosting. 
 
CAKES AND CAKE-BAKING. 
 
 Cocoanut Cake. Two eggs, one cupful white sugar, one- 
 half a cupful sweet milk, one-quarter cupful of butter, one 
 and one-half cupfuls of flour, one and one-half teaspoonfuls 
 baking-powder. Bake in a moderate oven in pans one inch 
 deep. To prepare the desiccated cocoanut, beat the whites 
 of two eggs to a stiff froth, add one cupful of pulverized 
 sugar and the cocoanut, after soaking it in boiling milk. 
 Spread the mixture between the layers of cake and over 
 the top. 
 
 White Mountain Cake. Make the cake with one pound of 
 fiour, one pound of sugar, half a pound of butter, six eggs, 
 one cupful of milk, one small teaspoonful of saleratus dis- 
 solved in the milk. Bake four thin cakes in flat pie plates ; 
 frost each of these cakes, laying one on another. When 
 all are done, even the edges with a knife and frost the sides. 
 Use the following frosting preparation : Beat to a standing 
 froth the whites of four eggs made thick v/ith sifted, refined 
 sugar, and add the sugar and juice of one lemon. 
 
 Delicate Cake. Two cupfuls of pulverized sugar, half a 
 cupful of butter, three cupfuls of flour, nearly three-fourths 
 of a cupful of milk, whites of eight eggs, half a teaspoonful 
 of cream tartar, one-fourth teaspoonful soda. This may be 
 baked in jelly cake tins and put together with icing. 
 
 Cream Cake. Take two cupfuls of sugar, two-thirds of a 
 cupful of butter, one cupful milk, one teaspoonful of soda, 
 one and a half teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, two and a 
 half cupfuls of flour, three eggs. Make the custard for the 
 cake with one cupful of milk, and one teaspoonful of corn- 
 starch dissolved in it, and brought to a boiling heat, with the 
 yelk of one egg dropped in to color it. Flavor with lemon 
 or vanilla; let it 'cool. Bake your cake in round pie-tins; 
 use just enough batter in the tin so that when they are 
 baked two of them put together will make one proper 
 sized cake. Make the custard first, and let it cool ; put the 
 13 
 
194 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 cakes together when they are warm, with plenty of custard 
 between them. 
 
 Orange Cake. Two cupfuls of sugar, one of butter, five 
 eggs, half a cupful of sour milk, one teaspoonful of cream 
 tartar, half a teaspoonful of soda, and two cupfuls of flour. 
 Bake in four layers, and put between the layers the follow- 
 ing filling : Beat two eggs, add to them a small cupful of 
 sugar, heaping tablespoonful of butter. Simmer gently until 
 it thickens. Remove from the fire, add the juice, grated 
 pulp, and part of the rind of one large orange. 
 
 Ice-Cream Cake. Two cupfuls of sugar, half a cupful of 
 butter, three eggs, a cupful of milk, three cupfuls of flour, 
 two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. Bake in layers. Boil 
 two small cupfuls of sugar and two-thirds of a cupful of 
 water for ten minutes. Beat the white of an egg, and pour 
 it over the mixture when it cooks a little. Beat till cold and 
 stiff, and put between the layers. 
 
 Union Cake. Two-thirds of a cupful of butter, two cupfuls 
 of sugar, one cupful of milk, three cupfuls of flour, four eggs, 
 two-thirds of a teaspoonful of cream tartar, and one-third 
 of a teaspoonful of soda. Divide into three equal parts, and 
 into one part put a cupful of seeded raisins, two-thirds of a 
 cupful of currants, and one-quarter pound of citron. Bake 
 in three pans of the same size. Put icing, flavored with 
 extract of lemon, between the layers and on the top and 
 sides. 
 
 Marble Cake. Two cupfuls of white sugar, one cupful of 
 butter, the whites of seven eggs, two teaspoonfuls of cream 
 tartar, one of soda, three and a half cupfuls of flour, and half 
 a cupful of milk. In another bowl three cupfuls of brown 
 sugar, one of butter, one of molasses, the yelks of seven 
 eggs, two tablespoonfuls of cinnamon, two of allspice, one 
 teaspoonful of cloves, half a nutmeg, half a cupful of milk, 
 three cupfuls of flour, one teaspoonful of soda ; and two of 
 
AuVD CAKE-BAKINC. 195 
 
 cream tartar. Arrange by dropping in first a tablespoonful 
 of dark batter, then of the light, to imitate marble. 
 
 Watermelon Cake. White part : One-half cupful of butter, 
 one cupful of powdered sugar, whites of three eggs, one- 
 third of a cupful of sweet milk, half a tablespoonful of bak- 
 ing-powder, and three half cupfuls of flour. Red part : One- 
 half cupful of butter, one cupful of red sugar, yelks of five 
 eggs, one-third of a cupful of sweet milk, one tablespoonful 
 of baking-powder, two cupfuls of flour, and half a pound of 
 seeded raisins. Put the red part in the centre of the pan, 
 with the white on the outside. Raisins may be introduced 
 in the red part to represent seeds. Red sugar can be had 
 of the confectioners. 
 
 Neapolitan Cake. Mix a yellow portion thus: Two cup- 
 fuls of powdered sugar, one cupful of butter stirred to light 
 cream with sugar; five eggs beaten well, with yelks and 
 whites separately ; half a cupful of sweet milk, three cupfuls 
 of prepared flour, a little nutmeg. 
 
 Mix a pink and white portion thus : One pound of pow- 
 dered sugar, one pound of prepared flour, half a pound of 
 butter creamed with sugar, the whites of ten eggs whisked 
 stiff Divide this batter into two equal portions. Leave one 
 white, and color the other with a very little prepared coch- 
 ineal or with red sugar. 
 
 Mix a brown portion thus : Three eggs beaten light, 
 one cupful of powdered sugar, quarter cupful of butter 
 creamed with sugar, two tablespoonfuls of -cream, one heap* 
 ing cupful of prepared flour, two tablespoonfuls of vanilla 
 chocolate grated and rubbed smooth in the cream, before it 
 is beaten into the cake. 
 
 Bake each of these parts in jelly-cake tins. The above 
 quantities should make three cakes of each color. 
 
 Mix a filling for the cake thus : Two cupfuls of sweet 
 milk, two tablespoonfuls of corn-starch, wet with milk, two 
 
196 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 eggs, two small cupfuls of fine sugar. Heat the milk, stir in 
 the sugar and corn-starch, boil five minutes, and put in the 
 eggs. Stir steadily until it becomes quite thick. Divide 
 this custard into two parts. Stir into one two tablespoonfuls 
 of grated chocolate and a teaspoonful of vanilla ; into the 
 other, bitter almond. 
 
 Prepare another filling thus : Whites of three eggs, 
 whisked stiff, one heaping cup of powdered sugar, juice and 
 half the grated peel of one lemon. Whip all together well. 
 Lay the brown cake as the foundation of the pile ; spread 
 with the yellow custard; add the pink, coated with choco- 
 late ; then add the white and yellow with the frosting be- 
 tween them. Vary the order as fancy dictates. Cover the 
 top with powdered sugar or with icing. 
 
 Angel's Food. Use the whites of eleven eggs, a scant pint 
 of granulated sugar, a large half pint of flour, one teaspoonful 
 of cream tartar (even full), and a teaspoonful of vanilla. Sift 
 the flour four times, then measure ; add cream of tartar, and 
 then sift again. Sift the sugar four times, then measure it. 
 Beat the eggs to a stiff froth on a large dish, and on same 
 dish add the sugar quickly and lightly ; add the flour in the 
 same way, and last of all the vanilla. Put at once into a 
 moderate oven, and bake forty minutes or more. Do not 
 grease the pans. Turn upside down to cool, putting small 
 blocks of wood under the edges that air may reach the cake. 
 
 Macaroons. Blanch half a pound of almonds with boiling 
 water, and pound them to a smooth paste. Add a table- 
 spoonful of essence of lemon, half a pound of powdered 
 sugar, and the whites of two eggs. Work the paste well to- 
 gether with the back of a spoon. Wet your hands, and roll 
 them in balls the size of a nutmeg, and lay them an inch 
 apart on a sheet of paper. Wet your finger, and press gently 
 over the surface to make them shiny. Bake three-quarters 
 of an hour in a very moderate oven. 
 
AND 
 
 Chocolate Macaroons. Put three ounces of plain chocolate 
 in a pan, and melt on a slow fire ; then work it to a thick 
 paste with one pound of powdered sugar and the whites of 
 three eggs; roll the mixture down to the thickness of 
 about one-quarter of an inch ; cut it in small, round pieces 
 with a paste-cutter, either plain or scalloped ; butter a pan 
 slightly, and dust it with flour and sugar in equal quanti- 
 ties ; place in it the pieces of paste or mixture, and bake in 
 a hot but not quick oven. 
 
 Cream Puffs. Stir one-half pound.of butter into a pint of 
 warm water, set it on the fire in a saucepan, and slowly 
 bring it to a boil, stirring often. When it boils, put in three- 
 quarters of a pound of flour, and let it boil one minute, stir- 
 ring constantly. Take from the fire, and turn into a deep 
 dish to cool. Beat eight eggs light, and whip into this cool 
 paste, first the yelks, then the whites. Drop in great spoon- 
 fuls on buttered paper so as not to touch or run into each 
 other, and bake ten minutes. Split them, and fill with the 
 following cream : One quart of milk, four tablespoonfuls of 
 corn-starch, two eggs, two cupfuls of sugar. Stir while boil- 
 ing, and when thick, add a teaspoonful of butter. When 
 cold, flavor. 
 
 Kisses. Beat the whites of four eggs very stiff, add one- 
 half pound of pulverized sugar, and flavor to taste. Beat 
 until very light, then lay in heaps the size of an egg on 
 paper. Place the paper on a piece of wood half an inch 
 thick, and put in a hot oven. Make the surface shiny by 
 passing over it a wet knife. Bake until they look yellowish, 
 when they are done. 
 
 Chocolate Kisses. Beat stiff the whites of two eggs; beat in 
 gradually one-half pound of powdered sugar. Scrape fine 
 one and a half ounces of chocolate ; dredge with flour, mixing 
 the flour well ; add this gradually to the eggs and sugar, stir- 
 ring the whole very hard. Cover the bottom of a pan with 
 
198 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 white paper, and place on it spots of powdered sugar the 
 size of half-dollars. Heap the mixture on these spots, 
 smooth with a broad knife, sift with powdered sugar, and 
 bake quickly. 
 
 Cocoannt Steeples. One pound of powdered sugar ; one- 
 half pound of grated cocoanut ; whites of five eggs. Whip 
 the eggs as for icing, adding the sugar as you go on until it 
 will stand alone, then beat in the cocoanut. Mold the mix- 
 ture with your hands into small cones, and set these far 
 enough apart not to touch one another upon buttered paper 
 in a baking-pan. Bake in a very moderate oven. 
 
 Meringues. Mix the whites of four eggs, beaten to a stiff 
 froth, with one pound of pulverized sugar, and flavored to 
 the taste. Beat stiff, bake the same as macaroons, when 
 light brown, slip them from the papers, and put the smooth 
 sides together, with jelly between. 
 
 Lady-fingers. One-half pound pulverized sugar and six 
 yelks of eggs, well stirred; add one-fourth pound flour, 
 whites of six eggs, well beaten. Bake in lady-finger tins, 
 or squeeze through a bag of paper in strips two or three 
 inches long. 
 
 Lady-fingers, No. 2. Rub half a pound of butter into a 
 pound of flour ; to this add half a pound of sugar, the juice 
 and grated rind of one large lemon, and, lastly, three eggs, 
 the whites and yelks beaten separately, and the whites stirred 
 in after all the other ingredients are well mixed together. 
 This dough, if properly made, will be stiff enough to make 
 rolls about the size of a lady's finger ; it will spread when 
 in the oven, so that it will be of the right size and shape. 
 If you wish them to be especially inviting, dip them in cho- 
 colate icing after they are baked, and put two together. 
 See that the icing is so hard that it will not run, and set the 
 cakes on a platter in a cool jroom until thejdng is firm. 
 
CAKES AND CAKE-BAKING. 199 
 
 Eclairs a la Creme. Three-fourths pound flour, one pint 
 water, ten eggs, one-half cupful butter. Put the water on 
 the fire in a stewpan with the butter ; as soon as it boils 
 stir in the sifted flour ; stir well until it leaves the bottom 
 and sides of the pan, when taken from the fire ; then add 
 the eggs, one at a time. Put the batter in a bag of paper, 
 and press out in the shape of fingers on a greased tin. 
 When cold, fill with cream, prepared as follows : One and 
 one-half pints of milk, two cupfuls sugar, yelks of five eggs, 
 one tablespoonful butter, three large tablespoonfuls corn- 
 starch, two teaspoonfuls extract vanilla. Frosted with choco- 
 late, they are much improved in appearance and flavor. 
 
 Icing for Cakes. In making icing, use at least a quarter of 
 a pound of pulverized sugar to the white of each egg ; if 
 not stiff enough, add more sugar. Break the whites into a 
 broad, cool dish, and throw in a small handful of sugar. 
 Begin whipping it in with long, even strokes of the beater, 
 adding the sugar gradually. Beat until the icing is smooth 
 and firm, then add the flavoring. Spread it on the cake 
 with a broad-bladed knife, dipped in cold water. If orna- 
 mentation of the icing is desired, it may be done by affixing 
 prepared leaves, flowers, etc., which can be had at the con- 
 fectioners' stores or at their supply stores. To make letters, 
 tracery, etc., for cakes, roll into a funnel shape a piece of 
 thick, white paper; fill this with icing in the soft state, 
 allowing it to drip out slowly from the small end of the 
 paper cone. Apply this carefully, and allow it to harden. 
 
 Orange Icing. Whites of two eggs, one-half pound of 
 pulverized sugar, and the juice of a large orange, treated 
 as above. 
 
 Lemon Icing. Whites of two eggs, one-half pound of 
 pulverized sugar, juice and part of the rind of one lemon. 
 
 Chocolate Icing. Whites of two eggs, one-half pound of 
 
200 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 pulverized sugar, and three tablespoonfuls of grated choc<x 
 late. 
 
 Almond Icing. The whites of three eggs, one cupful of 
 pounded blanched almonds, three-quarters of a pound of 
 pulverized sugar, and a little almond extract. 
 
 Banana Icing. Whites of two eggs, one-half pound of pul- 
 verized sugar, and one banana finely crushed through it. 
 This cake should be eaten the same day it is made, as the 
 banana discolors over night. 
 
 Cocoanut Frosting. Whites of two eggs, one-half pound 
 of pulverized sugar. Spread on the cake, then sprinkle 
 thickly with grated cocoanut. This will make a whiter frost- 
 ing than results from stirring in the cocoanut. 
 
 Cooked Frosting. One cupful of granulated sugar, wet 
 with a little water. Let it boil without stirring until it be- 
 gins to thicken. Beat the whites of two eggs very light. 
 Strain the boiled sugar into them slowly, beating all the 
 time. Flavor to taste. 
 
XIV. FRESH FRUITS AND NUTS. 
 
 VALUE OF FRESH FRUITS ON THE TABLE; ABUNDANCE OF FRUITS J 
 NUTRITIVE VALUE OF FRUITS; WHERE TO GATHER AND HOW 
 TO STORE FRUITS. TWENTY-TWO RECIPES FOR SERVING FRESH 
 FRUITS AND NUTS. 
 
 THRESH fruits are a most delightful accessory to the 
 
 ' table supply of both rich and poor. They are so great 
 in variety, so rich in flavor, so beautiful in appearance, 
 so healthful, and of so long continuance in most parts of the 
 country, that it behooves every housekeeper to familiarize 
 herself with the best methods of using fresh fruits to 
 advantage. 
 
 A few years ago each locality depended upon its own 
 local crop of fruits. Now the railroads bring early fruits 
 from the far South and late fruits from the far North, so 
 that at the centres of population the several fruit seasons are 
 delightfully prolonged. Nor are we restricted to our own 
 country's production. Such are the facilities for rapid and 
 safe communication from distant points, that the world lays 
 her tribute of fruits, sweet and sound, at the door of the 
 enlightened nations. 
 
 Fruits do not take an important place as nutrients. They 
 belong rather among the luxuries, and yet, as an agreeable 
 stimulant to digestion, they occupy a front rank. In many 
 conditions of health, some of the fruits are the only articles 
 the invalid can enjoy, and their genial influences contribute 
 greatly to the general improvement of a patient's appetite. 
 
 Fruits intended for immediate use should be gathered 
 early in the morning, while the coolness of the night dews 
 
 201 
 
202 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 is upon them. They should be just ripe, neither overdone 
 nor underdone, in nature's great process of preparing them 
 for human food. Fruit for storage is best gathered at the 
 middle of a dry day. It should be nearly ripe. If unripe, 
 or overripe it will not keep well. A moist atmosphere, but 
 not one positively damp, is best for the storing of fruit. An 
 ordinary cellar does better than a dry storeroom. Fruit 
 keeps better in the dark than in the light. 
 
 All varieties of nuts belong to the albuminous fruits and 
 are very nutritious, though the richer nuts are not easy 
 of digestion owing to their oily properties. 
 
 The supply of peanuts once came wholly from Africa, but 
 our Southern States have so successfully cultivated this 
 popular nut that we are now independent. The bulk of the 
 supply is from Virginia, North Carolina, and Tennessee. 
 During a single season the crop of Virginia rose to one 
 million one hundred thousand bushels, of Tennessee, five 
 hundred and fifty thousand bushels, and of North Carolina, 
 one hundred and twenty thousand bushels. 
 
 The Texas pecan is especially in demand. While a few 
 years ago several barrels of pecans abundantly supplied the 
 demand, carloads and invoices of one or two hundred bar- 
 rels are not now uncommon. 
 
 In the Eastern States hickory nuts are sufficiently plenti- 
 ful to ship to New York half a dozen carloads a week when 
 demanded. 
 
 The chestnut is becoming scarcer every year, but their 
 great popularity will probably prevent their total disappear- 
 ance, as they are already being successfully cultivated, and 
 it is expected that in a few years the cultivated nut will equal 
 in quality the high-priced Italian chestnuts. 
 
 RECIPES. 
 
 Watermelons. Wipe watermelons clean when they are 
 taken from the ice. They should lie on ice for at least four 
 
FRESH FRUITS AND NUTS. 203 
 
 hours before they are eaten. Cut off a slice at each end of 
 the watermelon, then cut through the centre ; stand on end 
 on platter, and slice down, allowing each slice a part of the 
 centre, or heart. 
 
 Nutmegs, etc. Wash nutmegs and muskmelons; wipe 
 dry ; cut in two ; shake out the seeds lightly, and put a 
 lump of ice in each half. Eat with pepper and salt. A sil- 
 ver spoon is a neat and pleasant article with which to eat 
 small, ripe melons. 
 
 Pineapples. Slice on a slaw-cutter, or very thin with a 
 knife ; mix with finely powdered sugar. Set on ice till ready 
 to serve. 
 
 Oranges are nice served whole, the skins quartered and 
 turned down. Form in a pyramid with bananas and white 
 grapes. 
 
 Orange and Coeoannt A layer of oranges sliced, then 
 sugar, then a layer of cocoanut, grated ; then another of 
 oranges, and so on until the dish is full. This is by many 
 known as Ambrosia. 
 
 Sliced Peaches. Peel and slice ripe peaches. Lay them in 
 a dish with plenty of sugar for an hour or two, till tea time. 
 Eat with cream. 
 
 Stewed Peaches. Make a sirup of sugar and water ; halve 
 the peaches, leaving the stone in one half, and drop into 
 sirup. Allow the whole to simmer slowly until fruit is ten^ 
 der; then remove fruit, and let sirup boil till thick; then pour 
 over fruit and serve at once. 
 
 Frosted Peaches. Put half a cupful of water and the 
 beaten whites of three eggs together ; dip in each peach, 
 using fine, large freestones, after you have rubbed off 
 the fur with a clean cloth ; and then roll in powdered sugar. 
 Set them on the stem end, upon a sheet of white paper, in 
 a sunny window. When half dry, roll again in the sugar. 
 
204 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 Expose to the sun and breeze until perfectly dry. Until 
 ready to arrange them in the glass dish for table, keep in 
 a cool, dry place. Decorate with green leaves. 
 
 Fried Peaches. Cut the peaches in two, and remove the 
 stones. Dust a little flour on the side from which the stone 
 is taken, and fry, only on that side, in a little butter. When 
 done, add sugar and a little butter. 
 
 Baked Apples. Pare and core good, sound, tart apples. 
 Fill them with sugar, butter, and a flavor of spice. Put a 
 little water in the pan, and bake until the apples are 
 thoroughly tender. 
 
 Apple Sauce. Pare, core, and slice nice, juicy apples that 
 are not very sweet ; put them in a stewpan with a little 
 grated lemon peel, and water enough to keep them from 
 burning. Stew till soft and tender ; mash to a paste, and 
 sweeten well with brown sugar, adding a little butter and 
 nutmeg. 
 
 Apples with Lemon. Make a sirup of sugar and water. 
 Slice a lemon into it, and let boil until clear. Pare and core 
 sound, tart apples, cut into quarters, and lay them carefully 
 into the sirup ; let them cook gently until a straw can be 
 run through them, taking care not to break them. Lay the 
 pieces of apple ip a glass dish, boil down the sirup, and 
 when slightly cool, pour over the apples. 
 
 Apple Float. Pare, slice, and stew six large apples irv as 
 much water as will cover them ; when well done, press them 
 through a sieve and sweeten highly with crushed sugar ; 
 while cooling, beat the whites of four eggs to a stiff froth, 
 and stir into the apples ; flavor with lemon or vanilla ; serve 
 with plenty of sweet cream. 
 
 Transparent Apple. Boil tart, ripe, and juicy apples in a 
 little water; then strain through a fine cloth, and add a 
 pound of white sugar to a pint of juice, Boil till it jellies, 
 
FRESH FRUITS AND NUTS. 205 
 
 and then put into molds. It is very nice served with blanc- 
 mange in saucers. 
 
 Baked Pears. Place in a stone jar, first a layer of pears, 
 with their skins on, then a layer of sugar, then pears, and so 
 on until the jar is full. Then put in as much water as it 
 will hold. Bake three hours. 
 
 Quinces. Bake ripe quinces thoroughly ; when cold, strip 
 off the skins, place the quinces in a glass dish, and sprinkle 
 them with white sugar ; serve with rich cream. 
 
 Bananas and Cream. Peel, slice, and heap up in a glass 
 dessert-dish, and serve raw, with fine sugar and cream. 
 
 Fried Bananas. Cut the bananas into slices, and fry in a 
 little butter. This makes a very rich dish. 
 
 Stewed Rhubarb. Carefully remove the outer stringy 
 skin ; then cut in pieces an inch long, and simmer gently till 
 tender in water and sugar, and the rind and juice of a lemon. 
 When done add a bit of butter and nutmeg. 
 
 Crystallized Fruit Pick out the finest of any kind of fruit j 
 leave in the stones ; beat the whites of three eggs to a stiff 
 froth ; lay the fruit in the beaten egg, with the stems 
 upward ; drain them, and beat the part that drips off again ; 
 select them out, one by one, and dip them into finely pow- 
 dered sugar ; cover a pan with a sheet of fine paper, place 
 the fruit on it, and set it in a cool place ; when the icing on 
 the fruit becomes firm, pile them on a dish, and set them in 
 a cold place. 
 
 Candied Fruits. Make a very rich sirup with one pound 
 of granulated sugar to a gill of water. Heat over boiling 
 water till the sugar is dissolved. Pare and halve fine, ripe, 
 but solid peaches. Put a single layer of them in the sirup, 
 in a shallow vessel ; cook slowly until clear ; drain from the 
 sirup, and put to dry in a moderately heated oven. When 
 fairly dry they may be eaten at once; or, after drying 
 
206 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 twenty-four hours, they may be packed for future use. 
 Plums, cherries, and pears may be candied in the same 
 manner. 
 
 Nuts. Almonds are inseparably joined with raisins in 
 table service ; so for evening uses, hickory nuts and apples 
 form a pleasant combination. All the harder-shelled nuts 
 should be well cracked before they are served. With the 
 softer-shelled, nut crackers should be furnished. Nut picks 
 should always be at hand. 
 
 Sweet almonds, which are used for dessert, are of several 
 varieties. Those known as the Syrian, or Jordan almonds, 
 are regarded as the best. Those with hard shells are gen- 
 erally richer in flavor than those with the soft. Certainly 
 the harder shell offers the more effective protection. The 
 skin of almonds is not easily digested. For use in cooking 
 they should be blanched, but for table use this is not desir- 
 able. Walnuts keep well and improve with age. Of the 
 hickory-nut family, the shell-bark is considered best. These, 
 too, are the better for age. 
 
XV. JELLIES, JAMS, AND PRESERVES. 
 
 WUJIT FOR JELLIES, JAMS, AND PRESERVES; HOW PREPARED} 
 PROPER SUGAR TO USE ; QUANTITY OF SUGAR NEEDED ; SUITABLE 
 PRESERVING-KETTLES; WHAT NOT TO USE; THE FIRE; CANS 
 AND JARS; WHERE STORED ; MOLDING THE JELLY; THE JELLY- 
 BAG ; STRAINING JELLY ; COVERING JELLY. FORTY-FOUR RECIPES 
 FOR JELLIES, JAMS, AND PRESERVES. 
 
 TO insure success in preserving fruits, the first thing to 
 be looked after is the fruit itself. This should be fully 
 ripe, fresh, sound, and scrupulously clean and dry. It 
 should be gathered in the morning of a sunny day, as it will 
 then possess its finest flavor. Care should be taken to re- 
 move all bruised or decayed parts. Allowing them to re- 
 main will darken the sirup, and consequently impair the 
 beauty of the preserves. Fruit requiring to be pared should 
 be laid in water to preserve the color after the paring. The 
 best sugar is the cheapest ; indeed, there is no economy in 
 stinting the sugar, either as to quality or proper quantity, 
 for inferior sugar is wasted in scum, and the preserves will 
 not keep unless a sufficient proportion of sugar is boiled 
 with the fruit. At the same time, too large a proportion of 
 sugar will destroy the natural flavor of the fruit, and in all 
 probability make fruit candy, instead of the result sought. 
 
 The usual proportion in making preserves, is a pound of 
 sugar to a pound of fruit. There are a few fruits which 
 require more sugar. In making the sirup, use a small cup- 
 ful of water to a pound of fruit. The sirup should always 
 be boiled and strained before putting the fruit in. 
 
 Fruit should be cooked in brass kettles, or those of bell- 
 metal. Modern kettles, lined with porcelain, are much use<J 
 
 ZQ7 
 
208 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 for this purpose. The kettle should be broad and shallow, 
 so that there will be no necessity for heaping the fruit. 
 Never use tin, iron, or pewter spoons, or skimmers, for pre- 
 serves, as they will convert the color of red fruit into a 
 dingy purple, and impart, besides, a very unpleasant flavor. 
 
 Great care should be taken not to place the kettle flat 
 upon the fire, as this will be likely to burn at the bottom. 
 
 Glass jars are much the best for preserves, as the condi- 
 tion of the fruit can be observed more readily. Whatever 
 jars are used, however, the contents should be examined 
 every three weeks for the first two months, and if there are 
 any signs of either mold or fermentation it should be boiled 
 over again. Preserves should be stored in a cool, dry place, 
 but not in one into which fresh air never enters. Damp has 
 a tendency to make the fruit mold, and heat to make it 
 ferment. 
 
 A jelly-bag should be in every kitchen. It should be 
 made of flannel, pointed at the bottom, so that the jelly will 
 run out chiefly at one point. It is a good plan to sew a 
 strong loop to the top of the bag, so that it may be hung 
 upon a nail near the fire, that the juice of the fruit may run 
 through gradually into a vessel below. The bag should not 
 be squeezed with the hands, if you wish a very clear jelly. 
 After the clear juice has been obtained, the remainder may 
 be pressed, to make a very excellent, but inferior article of 
 jelly or marmalade. 
 
 Rinse the tumblers or bowls to be used in cold water 
 just before filling with jelly or marmalade. When the jelly 
 is cold, fit a circle of tissue-paper, dip it in brandy, and 
 place it directly on the surface of the fruit. This simple 
 precaution will save the housekeeper much annoyance by 
 protecting the conserve from mold. Should the fungus form 
 inside the upper cover of the glass, the inner will effectually 
 shield the contents. Paste thick paper over the top of the 
 glass to exclude the air. 
 
JELLIES, JAMS, AND PRESERVES. 209 
 
 RECIPES. 
 
 Omrant Jelly. Never gather currants or other soft or 
 small seed fruit immediately after a rain for preserving pur- 
 poses, as they are greatly impoverished by the moisture 
 absorbed. In this climate, the first week in July is usually 
 considered the time to make currant jelly. Weigh the cur- 
 rants without removing the stems ; do not wash them, but 
 remove leaves and whatever may adhere to them ; to each 
 pound of fruit allow half the weight of granulated or pure 
 loaf sugar ; put a few currants into a porcelain-lined kettle, 
 and press them with a potato-masher, or anything conven- 
 ient, in order to secure sufficient liquid to prevent burning ; 
 then add the remainder of the fruit and boil freely for twenty 
 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent burning ; take out 
 and strain through a jelly-bag, putting the liquid into earthen 
 or wooden vessels. When strained, return the liquid to the 
 kettle, without the trouble of measuring, and let it boil 
 thoroughly for a moment or so ; then add the sugar ; the 
 moment the sugar is entirely dissolved, the jelly is done, 
 and must be dished, or placed in glasses ; it will jelly upon 
 the side of the cup as it is taken up, leaving no doubt as to 
 the result. 
 
 Currant Jelly, No. 2. Take three quarts of fine, ripe, red 
 currants, and four of white ; put them into a jar, tie paper 
 over the top, and put them into a cool oven for three or four 
 hours, or else into a pan of boiling water, or set them on 
 the side of the range ; when they are thoroughly heated, 
 strain through a jelly-bag. To every pint of juice, add one 
 pound of granulated sugar, and boil from five to fifteen 
 minutes ; turn while hot into wet tumblers. 
 
 Currant Jelly without Cooking. Press the juice from the 
 currants and strain. it; to every pint put a pound of fine white 
 augar ; mix them together until the sugar is dissolved ; thec 
 
210 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 put it in jars ; seal them and expose them to a hot sun for 
 two or three days. 
 
 Black Currant Jelly. Boil the currants till the juice flows, 
 then strain through a jelly-bag, and set it over the fire for 
 twenty minutes, after which add half a pound of sugar to a 
 pound of juice, and boil for about ten minutes. 
 
 White Currant Jelly. Strip the fruit off the stems, and 
 pound it in a clean wooden bowl. Drip the juice gently 
 through a jelly-bag. Prepare a very pure, clear sirup of the 
 best white sugar; allow a pint of juice to a pound of sugar; 
 boil it ten minutes only. Put it in glass preserve-tumblers, 
 cover with paper to fit exactly, and keep it dry and cool. 
 
 Apple Jelly. Take twenty large, juicy apples; pare and 
 chop ; put into a jar with the rind of four large lemons, 
 pared thin and cut in bits ; cover the jar closely, and set in 
 a pot of boiling water; keep water boiling all around it until 
 the apples are dissolved ; strain through a jelly-bag, and 
 mix with the liquid the juice of four lemons ; to one pint of 
 mixed juice use one pound of sugar; put in kettle, and when 
 the sugar is melted set it on the fire, and boil and skim 
 about twenty minutes, or until it is a thick, fine jelly. 
 
 Apple Jelly, No. 2. Peel and core sour apples ; boil them 
 in a very little water, and strain them through a jelly-bag. 
 Measure, and allow a pound of granulated sugar to a pint 
 of juice. Mix the sugar and juice well together, and let it 
 boil from five to ten minutes. Put it warm into glasses ; 
 cut some white paper to fit the top, dip it in brandy, and lay 
 on when the jelly is cool ; paste or tie thick paper over the 
 glasses, and when cold put away in a dark, dry place. 
 
 Crab-apple Jelly. Wash and quarter Siberian crab-apples. 
 Cover with cold water and let cook until thoroughly tender. 
 Strain through a jelly-bag, and to every pint of juice add 
 one pound of sugar. Let cook until it will jelly A slight 
 flavoring of essence of cinnamon is an improvement. 
 
JELLIES, JAMS, AND PRESERVES. 211 
 
 Quince Jelly. Take very ripe quinces ; peel and core, and 
 boil in a little water till very soft ; drain off the juice 
 through a coarse towel, add an equal measure of sugar, and 
 boil twenty minutes. 
 
 Grape Jelly. Mash the grapes thoroughly and strain 
 out the juice. Add an equal measure of sugar, and boil 
 twenty minutes. 
 
 Barberry Jelly. Pick the berries from the stalks, mash 
 them, and boil fifteen minutes. Squeeze through a jelly- 
 bag; allow a pound of white sugar to a pound of juice; 
 melt the sugar in the juice, and boil half an hour. 
 
 Raspberry Jelly. Crush the raspberries and strain through 
 a wet cloth. Add an equal measure of sugar, and boil from 
 ten to twenty minutes. 
 
 Apple Marmalade. Pare, core, and slice two or three dozen 
 tart, juicy apples ; three-quarters of a pound of sugar to 
 every pint of juice. Stew until tender in just enough cold 
 water to cover them. Drain off the juice through a colan- 
 der, and put into a preserving-kettle, stirring into it three- 
 quarters of a pound of sugar for every pint of the liquid. 
 Boil until it begins to jelly; strain the juice of two lemons 
 into it; put in the apples, and stew pretty fast, stirring- 
 almost constantly, until it becomes thick and smooth. If 
 the apples are not entirely soft, rub them through the col- 
 ander before adding them to the boiling sirup. 
 
 Quince Marmalade. Take very ripe quinces ; wash, pare 
 and core them ; to each pound of fruit allow one pound of 
 loaf sugar. Boil the parings and cores together, with water 
 enough to cover them, till quite soft ; strain the liquid into 
 the preserving-kettle with the fruit and sugar. Boil the 
 whole over a slow fire, stirring frequently until the mass be- 
 comes thick. 
 
 Pear and Quince Marmalade. Pare and core two dozen 
 juicy pears and ten fine, rips quinces. Add three-quarters 
 
212 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 of a pound of sugar to every pound of fruit and the juice o? 
 three lemons. Throw them into cold water, and stew the 
 parings and cores in a little water to make the sirup. When 
 they have boiled to pieces, strain off the liquid ; when cold, 
 put in the sliced fruit and bring to a fast boil. When the 
 mass is thick and smooth, cook steadily for an hour or more, 
 working with a wooden spoon to a rich jelly. 
 
 Pineapple Marmalade. Take ripe, juicy pineapples ; pare, 
 cut out the specks very carefully, and grate on a coarse 
 grater all but the core. Weigh, and allow a pound of sugar 
 to a pound of fruit. Cook from twenty minutes to half an 
 hour. 
 
 Orange Marmalade. Take eighteen sweet, ripe oranges, six 
 pounds best white sugar. Grate the peel from four of these 
 and reserve it for the marmalade. The rinds of the others 
 will not be needed. Pare the fruit carefully, removing the 
 inner white skin as well as the yellow. Slice the orange ; 
 remove the seeds ; put the fruit and grated peel in a porce- 
 lain kettle, and boil steadily until the pulp is reduced to a 
 smooth mass. Take from the fire, and put through a col- 
 ander. Stir in six pounds of the best white sugar ; return 
 to the fire, and boil fast, stirring constantly half an hour or 
 until thick. 
 
 Grape Marmalade. Put green grapes into a preserving-pan 
 with sufficient water to cover them. Put them on the fire, 
 and boil until reduced to a mash ; put the pulp through a 
 sieve which will strain out the seeds ; to each pound of pulp 
 add two pounds of the best loaf sugar, and boil to the con- 
 sistence of a jelly. 
 
 Peach Marmalade. Select peaches which are quite ripe ; 
 pare and cut them in small pieces ; to every pound of fruit 
 add one pound of sugar ; put the fruit and sugar into a pre- 
 serving-kettle, and mash well together ; place it over the fire, 
 and when it begins to boil, stir until it becomes quite thick. 
 
f JELLIES, JAMS, AND PRESERVES. 213 
 
 Cherry Jam. First stone and then weigh some 'freshly 
 gathered preserving cherries; boil them over a brisk fire 
 for an hour, keeping them almost constantly stirred from the 
 bottom of the pan, to which they will otherwise be liable to 
 stick and burn. Add for each pound of the fruit half a 
 pound of good sugar roughly powdered, and boil quickly 
 for twenty minutes, taking off the scum as it rises. 
 
 Blackberry Jam. To four bowls of blackberries add four 
 bowls of sugar; boil until it jellies. 
 
 Raspberry Jam. Mash the raspberries, and allow a pound 
 of sugar to a pound of fruit. Boil twenty minutes. A few 
 currants added to raspberry jam is considered by many a 
 great improvement. 
 
 Barberry Jam. The barberries should be quite ripe, though 
 they should not be allowed to hang until they begin to 
 decay. Strip them from the stalks, throw aside such as are 
 spotted, and for each pound of fruit allow eighteen ounces of 
 well-refined sugar ; boil this, with one pint of water to every 
 four pounds, until it becomes white and falls in thick 
 masses from the spoon ; then throw in the fruit, and keep it 
 stirred over a brisk fire for six minutes only ; take off tho 
 scum, and pour it into jars or glasses. 
 
 Strawberry Jam. Use fine, scarlet berries ; weigh and boil 
 them for thirty-five minutes, keeping them constantly 
 stirred ; add eight ounces of good sugar to the pound of 
 fruit ; mix them well off the fire, then boil again quickly for 
 twenty-five minutes. One pound of white currant juice 
 added at the outset to four of the strawberries will greatly 
 improve this preserve. 
 
 White Currant Jam. Boil together quickly for seven min- 
 utes equal quantities of fine white currants, picked very care- 
 fully, and of the best white sugar pounded and passed 
 through a sieve. Stir the preserve gently the whole time, 
 
214 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 and skim it thoroughly. Just before it is taken from tha 
 fire, throw in the strained juice of one good lemon to four 
 pounds of the fruit 
 
 Dainson Jam. The fruit for this jam should be freshly 
 gathered and quite ripe. Split, stone, weigh, and boil it 
 quickly for forty minutes ; then stir in half its weight of 
 good sugar roughly powdered, and when it is dissolved, 
 give the preserve fifteen minutes additional boiling, keeping 
 it stirred and thoroughly skimmed. 
 
 Green Gage Jam. Rub ripe green gages through a sieve ; put 
 all the pulp into a pan with an equal weight of loaf sugar 
 pounded and sifted. Boil the whole until sufficiently thick, 
 and put into glasses. 
 
 Preserved Peaches. Weigh the peaches, and allow three- 
 quarters of a pound of sugar to every pound of fruit. Throw 
 about half the sugar over the fruit, and let it stand over 
 night. In the morning drain the sirup off the fruit, add the 
 rest of the sugar, and let that come to a boil. Put the 
 peaches in, and let them boil until you can stick a straw 
 through them. In cooking the peaches, put a few at a time 
 only in the sirup to cook. 
 
 Preserved Peaches, No. 2. Weigh the fruit after it is pared 
 and the stones extracted and allow a pound of sugar to every 
 pound of peaches. Put the sugar in a preserving-kettle, and 
 make the sirup; let it just boil ; lay the peaches in, and let 
 them boil steadily until they are tender and clear. Take 
 them out with a perforated skimmer and lay upon flat 
 dishes, crowding as little as possible. Boil the sirup almost 
 to a jelly, until it is clear and thick, skimming off all the 
 scum. Fill the jars two-thirds full of the peaches, pour on 
 the boiling sirup, and, when cold, cover with brandied 
 tissue-paper, then with thick paper tied tightly over them. 
 Or put them in air-tight jars. 
 
JELLIL^ JAMS, AND PRESERVES. 215 
 
 Preserved Quinces. Use a pound of sugar to each pound 
 of quince after paring, coring, and quartering ; take half of 
 the sugar and make a thin sirup ; stew in this a few of the 
 quinces at a time till all are finished. Make a rich sirup of 
 the remaining sugar, and pour over them. 
 
 Pineapple Preserves. Use pineapples as ripe as can be had. 
 Pare and cut them into thin slices, weigh them, and allow 
 one pound of the best granulated sugar to each pound of 
 fruit. Take a deep china bowl or dish, and in it put a layer 
 of fruit and sugar alternately, a coating of sugar on the top ; 
 let it stand all night. In the morning, take out the fruit and 
 put the sirup into a preserving-kettle. Boil and skim it until 
 it is perfectly clear ; then, while it is boiling hot, pour it 
 over the fruit, and let it stand uncovered until it becomes 
 entirely cold. If it stands covered, the steam will fall into 
 the sirup and thin it. 
 
 Preserved Pears. Preserved pears are put up precisely as 
 are peaches, but are only pared, not cored or divided, "Leave 
 the stems on. 
 
 Watermelon Rind Preserves. Select rind which is firm, 
 green, and thick ; cut in any fanciful shape, such as leaves, 
 stars, diamonds, etc. Then weigh, and to each pound of 
 rind allow one and a half pounds of loaf sugar. To green 
 them, take a brass or copper kettle, and to a layer of grape- 
 vine leaves, which should be well washed, add a layer of 
 the rind, and so on until the last, which should be a thick 
 layer of the leaves, and well covered with a coarse linen 
 cloth. To each pound of the rind, add a piece of alum the 
 size of a pea ; then fill up with warm water sufficient to 
 cover the whole, and let it stand upon the stove, where it 
 will steam, but not boil, until the greening is completed, 
 which will be in two or three hours. When green, lay them 
 in clear, cold water, and make your sirup. To each pound 
 of sngar add one and a half pints of water ; clarify, put in 
 
216 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOtf. 
 
 your rind ; slice lemons, two to each pound of rind, and 
 when about half done add the lemons. Boil until the rind 
 is perfectly transparent. A few pieces of ginger-root may 
 be added, which will impart a high flavor, and will blend 
 very delightfully with the lemons. 
 
 Preserved Citron. Proceed the same as above, substituting 
 citron for the watermelon rind. 
 
 Preserved Strawberries. Procure fresh, large strawberries 
 when in their prime, but not so ripe as to be very soft ; hull 
 and weigh them ; take an equal weight of sugar, make a 
 sirup, and when boiling hot, put in the berries. A small 
 quantity only should be done at once. If crowded, they 
 will become mashed. Let them boil about twenty minutes, 
 or a half an hour ; turn into tumblers or small jars, and seal 
 with egg papers while hot. 
 
 Preserved Cherries. Wash, stem, and stone the cherries ; 
 save every drop of the juice, and use it in place of water in 
 making the sirup. Make a sirup, allowing a pound of sugar 
 to every pound of fruit ; add the fruit, and let it simmer 
 gently for half an hour, skimming as is necessary. 
 
 Damson Preserves. To four pounds of damsons use three 
 pounds of sugar ; prick each damson with a needle ; dis- 
 solve the sugar with one-half pint of water, and put it on 
 the fire ; when it simmers, put in as many damsons as will 
 lie on the top ; when they open, take them out and lay them 
 on a dish, and put others in, and so on until all have been 
 in ; then put them all in the kettle together and let them 
 stew until done ; put them in jars and seal them. 
 
 Green Gage Preserves. When the fruit is ripe, wipe them 
 clean, and to one pound of fruit put one-quarter pound of 
 sugar, which will make a fine sirup ; boil the fruit in this 
 sirup until it is perfectly done ; then use a fresh sirup of one 
 pound of fruit to one pound of sugar; moistening the sugar 
 
JELLIES, JAMS, AND PRESERVES. 217 
 
 with water. When the sirup boils put in the fruit, and leave 
 for fifteen minutes ; then put the fruit in jars ; boil the sirup 
 until thick ; when cooled to milkwarm, pour it over the 
 fruit; tie the jars tightly and keep in a warm place. 
 
 Strawberries in Wine. Put a quantity of the finest large 
 strawberries in a bottle, strew in a few spoonfuls of pow- 
 dered sugar, and fill the bottle up with Madeira or Sherry 
 wine. 
 
 Grapes in Brandy. Take some close bunches of grapes, 
 white or black, not overripe, and lay them in ajar. Put a 
 good quantity of pounded white candy upon them, and fill 
 up the jar with brandy. Tie them close down, and keep in 
 a dry place. Prick each grape with a needle three times. 
 
 Brandy Peaches. Take large, juicy freestone peaches, not 
 so ripe as to burst or mash on being handled. Rub the 
 down from them with a clean thick flannel. Prick every 
 peach down to the stone with a large silver fork, and score 
 them all along the seam or cleft. To each pound of peaches 
 allow a pound of granulated sugar and half a pint of water 
 mixed with half a white of egg, slightly beaten. Put the 
 sugar into a porcelain kettle and pour the water upon it. 
 When it is quite melted, give it a stirring, set it over the 
 fire,, and boil and skim it till no more scum rises. Then 
 put in the peaches, and let them cook (uncovered) in the 
 sirup till a straw will penetrate them. Then take the kettle 
 off the fire, and take out the fruit with a wooden spoon, 
 draining it over the kettle. Let the sirup remain in the ket- 
 tle a little longer. Mix a pint of the very best white brandy 
 for each pound of peaches, with the sirup, and boil them 
 together ten minutes or more. Transfer the peaches to 
 large glass jars, making each about two-thirds full, and 
 pour the brandy and sirup over them, filling the jars full. 
 When cool, cover closely. 
 
 Seven pounds of fruit, one pint vinegar, 
 
218 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 three pounds sugar, two ounces cinnamon, one-half ounce 
 cloves. Scald together the sugar, vinegar, and spices ; pour 
 over the fruit. Let it stand twenty-four hours ; drain off, 
 scald again, and pour over fruit, letting it stand another 
 twenty-four hours. Boil all together until the fruit is tender. 
 Skim it out, and boil the liquor until thickened. Pour over 
 the fruit and set away in a jar. 
 
 Apple Butter. Boil down a kettieful of cider to two- 
 thirds the original quantity. Pare, core, and slice juicy 
 apples, and put as many into the cider as it will cover. Boil 
 slowly, stirring often with a flat stick, and when the apples 
 are tender to breaking, take them out with a perforated 
 skimmer, draining well against the sides of the kettle. Put 
 in a second supply of apples and stew them soft, as many 
 as the cider will hold. Take from the fire, pour all together 
 into a tub or large crock; cover and let it stand twelve 
 hours. Then return to the kettle and boil down, stirring all 
 the while until it is the consistency of thick custard and 
 brown in color. Spice well with Durkee's ground mixed 
 spices. 
 
 Peach Butter. To one bushel of peaches allow from eight 
 to ten pounds of granulated sugar; pare and halve the 
 peaches, put into the kettle, and stir constantly, to prevent 
 sticking to the kettle, until perfectly smooth and rather 
 thick ; a part of the peach-stones thrown in and cooked 
 with the peaches give it a nice flavor, and they can be after- 
 ward skimmed out ; add the sugar a short time before tak- 
 ing from the fire ; put in jars and cover tight ; peaches for 
 butter should be neither too mealy nor too juicy. 
 
XVI. CANNED FRUITS AND VEGETABLES. 
 
 WIDESPREAD USE OF CANNED GOODS; PHILOSOPHY OF CANNING 
 FRUITS ; HOW TO FILL THE JARS ; WHAT JARS ARE BEST } SELEC- 
 TION OF THE FRUIT ; WHERE TO STORE THE CANS; NEED OF 
 WATCHING THE CANS. TWELVE RECIPES OF CANNING FRUIT 
 AND VEGETABLES. 
 
 /BANNED fruits and vegetables of all kinds may now be 
 I . found abundantly in the stores. Their prices are so 
 low that they present a strong inducement to the 
 housekeeper to omit the labor incident to home canning, and 
 simply to purchase what is needed. 
 
 What is aimed at in all these processes is the entire ex- 
 clusion of air from the fruit. Its expulsion from them is 
 effected by using heat enough to cook them, after which the 
 hermetical sealing does the remaining service. Solder, wax, 
 and rubber bands do this sealing work. 
 
 If it is desired to preserve the fruit whole, it may be put 
 into the jars before heating. Fill the jars with water, and 
 set them into a wash-boiler of cold water, the water reach- 
 ing three-fourths of the way to the tops of the jars. Do not 
 set them directly on the bottom, but on a little hay, lest the 
 heat cause them to crack. Bring the water slowly to a boil, 
 and let it boil about five minutes. The cans may then be 
 taken out, stirred lightly, or shaken, to expel any remaining 
 air bubbles ; then fill to the brim with boiling water and 
 close the jars. No air bubbles should remain in the can. 
 If the fruit can be cooked before canning, the process is 
 much simpler, as the boiling material itself expels the air. 
 The cans in thJ5 case neetf simply to be filled and then 
 
220 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 While filling jars, be careful that no current of cold alt 
 strike them, as this would suffice to crack a glass jar. When 
 a jar has cracked, it is hardly safe to use its contents, as 
 fragments of glass may be contained in the fruit, which 
 would be fatal if swallowed. 
 
 Cans should be of glass or stoneware, as the acids of 
 fruit act chemically on tin or other metals, often destroying 
 the flavor of the fruit, and sometimes rendering it absolutely 
 unwholesome. Do not use a metal spoon even. Either self- 
 sealing cans, or those which require wax, may be used suc- 
 cessfully, but probably the former are best for those of little 
 experience, and they are unquestionably more convenient. 
 There are several varieties of self-sealing cans, all of them 
 highly recommended, and doubtless all of them sufficiently 
 good. The "Valve Jar," the "Mason," and the "Hero" 
 are among the best known and most reliable. 
 
 Fruit should be selected with the greatest care. Some 
 varieties cannot be preserved at all, unless canned when per- 
 fectly fresh, and success is more certain with all kinds in 
 proportion to freshness and soundness. The fruit should be 
 nearly or quite ripe, but not over-ripe, and all which bears 
 signs of decay should be rejected. 
 
 In canning, as in preserving, granulated sugar should 
 always be used, and also a porcelain-lined kettle. Peaches, 
 pears, or other large fruit may, by the aid of a fork, be 
 tastily arranged in the jars, piece by piece. The boiling 
 juice may be added afterward to cover them. Thus ar- 
 ranged they appear prettier in the jars, though, of course, 
 the flavor is not improved. 
 
 All canning work should be done expeditiously, and the 
 cans be set away to cool. They should be kept in a cool, 
 dark place and closely watched for a few days, to see that 
 the sealing is perfect. If the fruit shows signs of not being 
 perfectly sealed, it should be at once taken out, scalded, and 
 sealed again. 
 
CANNED FRUITS, ETC. 221 
 
 RECIPES. 
 
 Canned Strawberries. Fill glass jars with fresh strawberries 
 sprinkled with sugar, allowing a little over one-quarter of a 
 pound of sugar to each pound of berries ; set the jars in a 
 boiler, with a little hay laid in the bottom to prevent the 
 jars from breaking ; fill with cold water to within an inch or 
 two of the tops of the jars ; let them &#7 fifteen minutes, then 
 move back to the boiler, wrap the hand in a towel, and take 
 out the jars ; fill the jars to the top before sealing, using one 
 or more of the filled jars for that purpose if necessary. 
 
 Canned Gooseberries. Fill very clean, dry, wide-necked 
 bottles with gooseberries gathered the same day and before 
 they have attained their full growth. Cork them tightly, 
 wrap a little hay round each of them, and set them up to 
 their necks in a kettle of cold water, which should be 
 brought very gradually to boil. Let the fruit be gently 
 simmered until it appears shrunken and perfectly scalded ; 
 then take out the bottles, and with the contents of one or 
 two fill up the remainder. Use great care not to break the 
 fruit in doing this. When all are ready, pour scalding 
 water into the bottles and cover the gooseberries entirely 
 with it, or they will become moldy at the top. Cork the 
 bottles well immediately, and cover the necks with melted 
 resin ; keep them in a cool place ; and when they are used 
 pour off the greater part of the water and add sugar as for 
 the fresh fruit. 
 
 Canned Peaches. Peel and quarter choice peaches. To 
 peel, place them in a wire basket, dip into boiling water a 
 moment and then into cold water, and strip off the skins. 
 Have a porcelain-kettle with boiling water and another with 
 sirup made with granulated sugar ; drop the peaches into 
 boiling water (some previously boil the pits in the water for 
 their flavor) and let them cook until tender; then lift them 
 out carefully into a can, pouring over them all the sirup the 
 
222 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 can will hold, and seal immediately. Cook only peaches 
 enough to fill one can at a time. 
 
 Canned Peaches, No. 2. Pare and stone peaches enough fot 
 two jars at a time. If many are pared, they will become dark 
 colored by standing. Rinse in cold water ; then cook in a 
 rich sirup of sugar and water about fifteen or twenty minutes, 
 or until they are clear. Put into jars all that are not broken; 
 fill up with the hot sirup, about as thick as ordinary mo- 
 lasses, and seal. The same sirup will do to cook several jars. 
 After the sirup becomes dark, it, with the broken peaches, 
 can be used for marmalade or peach butter. The same 
 method can be used for pears, plums, and all light fruits. 
 
 Canned Pineapple. Use three-fourths of a pound of sugar 
 to one pound of fruit. Pick the pineapple to pieces with a 
 silver fork. Scald and can while hot 
 
 Canned Grapes. Squeeze the pulp from the skin ; boil the 
 pulp until the seeds begin to loosen, having the skins boiling 
 hard and separately in a little water. When the pulp seems 
 tender, put it through the sieve ; then add the skins, if ten- 
 der, with the water they boil in, if not too much. Use a 
 large cofTeecupful of sugar for a quart can ; boil until thick, 
 and can in the usual way. 
 
 Canned Plums. Prick each plum with a needle to prevent 
 bursting ; prepare a sirup, allowing a gill of pure water and 
 a quarter of a pound of sugar to every three quarts of fruit. 
 When the sugar is dissolved and the water blood-warm, put 
 in the plums. Heat slowly to a boil. Let them boil five 
 minutes not fast or they will break badly fill up the jars 
 with plums, pour in the scalding sirup until it runs down 
 the sides, and seal. Green gages are very fine put up in this 
 way, also damsons for pies. 
 
 Canned Pears. Select finely flavored fruit ; either halve and 
 fcpre tftern or ppre ^Jjple ; mafce a $jrup 
 
CANNED FRUITS, ETC. 223 
 
 using as little water as will dissolve the sugar. Add a 
 quarter of a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. Place the 
 fruit in the kettle carefully, and let it come to a boil or until 
 the fruit is well scalded. Turn into the jars hot, and seal at 
 once. 
 
 Canned Tomatoes. Pour boiling water over the tomatoes 
 to loosen the skins. Remove these ; drain off all the juice 
 that will come away without pressing hard ; put them into a 
 kettle and heat slowly to a boil. The tomatoes will look 
 much nicer if all the hard parts be removed before putting 
 them on the fire. Rub the pulp soft with your hands. Boil 
 half an hour ; dip out the surplus liquid, pour the tomatoes, 
 boiling hot, into the cans, and seal. Keep in a cool, dark 
 place. 
 
 Canned Beans. Remove the strings at the sides, and cut 
 into pieces about an inch long ; put them into boiling water 
 and scald, then can them. 
 
 Canned Asparagus. Cut away all the hard part of the stem 
 and boil the top portion until nearly done, just as if about 
 to serve at once. Flat cans are best, into which the stems 
 can be laid regularly, the water in which they were boiled 
 being poured over them boiling hot, and the can sealed. If 
 jars or high cans are used, pack the asparagus into them 
 until they are full. Fill the cans with water ; set them on 
 hay in a boiler of cold water reaching to within an inch of 
 their tops ; then bring to a boil and nearly finish cooking 
 the stems. Wrap the hand in a towel ; take out the cans 
 and seal or solder them as in other vegetables. 
 
 Canned Corn. Boil sweet corn till nearly done ; cut close 
 from the cobs and fill the jars ; pour on water in which the 
 corn was boiled ; place in a boiler and just bring to a boil, 
 as above ; then take gut and seal. 
 
XVII. PICKLES AND CATSUPS. 
 
 SICKLES MORE POPULAR THAN WHOLESOME ; GREENING PICKLES > 
 WHAT KETTLES AND JARS SHOULD NOT BE USED IN PICKLING J 
 CHOOSING THE FRUIT, SPICES, ETC. ; HOW TO KEEP PICKLES ; 
 CATSUPS, HOW MADE, ETC. THIRTY-THREE RECIPES FOR PICKLES 
 
 AND CATSUPS. 
 
 PICKLES are very popular as a relish, but it must be 
 confessed that they are not the most wholesome diet. 
 This is due chiefly to the fact that they are made of 
 hard, crude, and often of unripe fruit. Then, too, the ex- 
 cess of acid and the high seasoning disagree with many 
 constitutions. 
 
 It is deemed important that pickles for the market be 
 well greened. To accomplish this end, copperas and other 
 chemicals are employed or copper kettles are used. All 
 this is poisonous, and should be shunned. No metal ket- 
 tles or spoons should be tolerated in pickling. Glazed jars 
 are not desirable either, as salt and vinegar decompose the 
 glazing and set free the lead which it contains. An ordinary 
 stone jar is the vessel to use, or a porcelain-lined kettle. 
 
 Be careful to select perfectly sound fruit or vegetables for 
 pickling, and use none but the very best cider vinegar. 
 Good white wine vinegar does well for some sorts of pickles, 
 but be ever watchful against chemical preparations called 
 vinegar, that destroy instead of preserving the articles put 
 away in them. In the selection of spices there is so much 
 diversity of taste that no general directions will be of prac- 
 tical value. But get the purest articles you can find. 
 
 Pickles must be kept from the air, It is a good plan to 
 
 284 
 
PICKLES AND CATSUPS. 226 
 
 put them up in large jars, and for use to empty the large 
 jar at once into smaller ones, using these one at a time. 
 Keep them wholly covered with the vinegar. Water will 
 soon cause the jar of pickles to spoil. 
 
 The same hints given above apply to the making of cat- 
 sup, which is really but a pickle cooked to a more advanced 
 point. It needs to be tightly corked and sealed, that it may 
 keep well. 
 
 RECIPES. 
 
 Cucumber Pickles. Make a weak brine, hot or cold ; if hot, 
 let the cucumbers stand in it twenty-four hours ; if cold, 
 forty-eight hours ; rinse and dry the cucumbers with a cloth, 
 take vinegar enough to cover them, allow one ounce of 
 alum to every gallon of vinegar, put it in a brass kettle (or 
 porcelain-lined, if the greening is not desired) with the 
 cucumbers, and heat slowly, turning the cucumbers from 
 the bottom frequently ; as soon as they are heated through, 
 skim them out into a crock, let the vinegar boil up, turn i' 
 over the pickles, and let them stand at least twenty-fou. 
 houis ; drain off the vinegar. Take fresh vinegar, and to 
 every gallon allow two tablespoofuls of white mustard-seed, 
 one of cloves, one of celery-seed, one of stick cinnamon, 
 one large, green pepper, a very little horse-radish, and, if 
 you like, one-half pint of sugar. Divide the spices equally 
 into several small bags of coarse muslin, scald with the vine- 
 gar, and pour over the pickles. If you like your pickles 
 hard, let the vinegar cool before pouring over them. 
 
 Cucumber Pickles, No. 2. To a gallon of water add a quart 
 of salt, put in the cucumbers, and let them stand over night. 
 In the morning, wash them out of the brine, and put them 
 carefully into a stone jar. Boil a gallon of vinegar, put in 
 while cold, quarter of a pound of cloves, and a tablespoon- 
 ful of alum ; when it boils hard, skim it well and turn ovef 
 the cucumbers. In a week they will be fit for use. 
 15 
 
226 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 Pickled Onions. Select small white onions, put them ovet 
 the fire in cold water with a handful of salt. When the 
 water becomes scalding hot, take them out and peel off the 
 skins, lay them in a cloth to dry; then put them in a jar. 
 Boil half an ounce of allspice and half an ounce of cloves 
 in a quart of vinegar. Take out the spice and pour the 
 vinegar over the onions while it is hot. Tie up the jar when 
 the vinegar is cold, and keep it in a dry place. 
 
 Pickled Onions, No. 2. Take small, white onions and peel 
 them ; lay them in salt water for two days ; change the water 
 once; then drain and put them in bottles. Take vinegar 
 enough to cover them, spice with whole mixed spices, scald 
 it, and pour over the onions. 
 
 Pickled Garlic and Eschalots. Garlic and eschalots may be 
 pickled in the same way as onions. 
 
 Pickled Nasturtiums. Nasturtiums should be gathered 
 quite young, and a portion of the buds, when very small, 
 should be mixed with them. Prepare a pickle by dissolv- 
 ing an ounce and a half of salt in a quart of pale vinegar, 
 and throw in the berries as they become fit, from day to 
 day. They are used instead of capers for sauce, and by 
 some persons are preferred to them. When purchased for 
 pickling, put them at once into a jar and cover them well 
 with the vinegar. 
 
 Pickled Watermelon. Take the outer part of the rind of 
 the melon, pare and cut in small pieces. To one quart of 
 vinegar add two pounds of sugar, one ounce of cassia buds. 
 In this boil the rind until clear and tender. 
 
 Pickled Walnuts. Walnuts for this pickle must be gathered 
 while a pin can pierce them easily. When once the shell 
 can be felt, they have ceased to be in a proper state for it 
 Make sufficient brine to cover them well, with six ounces of 
 <alt to the gallon of water; take off the scum, which will 
 
PICKLES AND CATSUPS. 227 
 
 rise to the surface as the salt dissolves, throw in the walnuts, 
 and stir them night and morning ; change the brine every 
 three days, and if they are wanted for immediate eating, 
 leave them in it for twelve days; otherwise, drain them 
 from it in nine, spread them on dishes, and let them remain 
 exposed to the air until they become black ; this will be in 
 twelve hours, or less. Make a pickle for them with some- 
 thing more than half a gallon of vinegar to the hundred, a 
 teaspoonful of salt, two ounces of black pepper, three of 
 bruised ginger, a drachm of mace, and from a quarter to 
 half an ounce of cloves (of which some may be stuck into 
 three or four small onions), and four ounces of mustard- 
 seed. Boil the whole of these together for about five min- 
 utes ; have the walnuts ready in a stone jar, or jars, and 
 pour the vinegar on them as soon as it is taken from the fire. 
 When the pickle is quite cold, cover the jar securely and 
 store it in a dry place. Keep the walnuts always well 
 covered with vinegar, and boil that which is added to them. 
 
 Pickled Red Cabbage. Slice the red cabbage into a colan- 
 der, and sprinkle each layer with salt ; let it drain two days, 
 then put it into a jar and pour boiling vinegar enough to 
 cover, and put in a few slices of red beet-root. Use the 
 purple red cabbage. Cauliflower cut in bunches, and 
 thrown in after being salted, will take on the color of a 
 beautiful red. 
 
 Pickled Mushrooms. Rub the mushroom heads with flan- 
 nel and salt, throw them in a stewpan with a little salt over 
 them ; sprinkle with pepper and a small quantity of mace ; 
 as the liquor comes out, shake them well, and keep them 
 over a gentle fire until all the liquor is dried into them 
 again ; then, put as much vinegar into the pan as will cover 
 them ; give it a scald, and pour the whole into bottles. 
 
 Pickled Beets. Wash the beet perfectly, not cutting any 
 of the fibrous roots, lest the juice escape; put in sufficient 
 
228 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK:. 
 
 water to boil it, and when the skin will come off easily it is 
 sufficiently cooked, and may be taken out and laid upon a 
 cloth to cool. Having rubbed off the peel, cut the beet 
 into thick slices, pour over it cold vinegar prepared as fol- 
 lows : Boil a quart of vinegar with an ounce of whole black 
 pepper and an equal weight of dry ginger, and let it stand 
 until quite cold. Keep closely corked. 
 
 Pickled Peppers. Do not pick them till just as they begin 
 to turn red ; then soak them for ten or twelve days in strong 
 salt and water ; take them from the brine and soak them 
 in clear water for a day. Wipe them dry, and put them 
 away in cold vinegar ; or if you wish them milder, remove 
 the seeds and scald the vinegar, but do not boil. 
 
 Pickled Bell Peppers. Cut a slit in the side of each pepper 
 and take out all the seeds. Let them soak in brine (strong 
 enough to float an egg) two days. Then, washing them in 
 cold water, put them into a stone jar. Pour over them vine- 
 gar boiled with cinnamon, mace, and nutmeg. Whenever 
 they are wanted to be served, stuff each one with a boiled 
 tongue cut into dice and mixed with a mayonnaise dressing. 
 Or little mangoes may be made, stuffing each one with 
 pickled nasturtiums, grapes, minced onions, red cabbage, or 
 cucumbers, seasoned with mustard-seed, root ginger, and 
 mace. 
 
 Pepper-hash. Take four dozen peppers, two very large 
 cabbages, one ounce of light mustard-seed. Chop the 
 peppers fine, cut the cabbage on a cabbage-knife, mix to- 
 gether, salt well, and let it stand over night, putting the 
 dish or tub so the juice will run down ; pour off in the 
 morning. Add one ounce of cloves, one ounce of allspice ; 
 mix all through, and put the vinegar on cold. 
 
 Flint Pickles. Make a brine of a gallon of water and a 
 cupful of salt. This must be poured boiling hot on the cu- 
 cumbers six days in succession. Rinse them in cold water; 
 
CATSUPS. 
 
 put them in a kettle with a teaspoonful of allspice and a tea- 
 spoonful of cloves, a handful of cinnamon sticks, a little 
 sliced horse-radish, and cider vinegar to cover them. Let 
 them come to a boil, then take out and put in jars. 
 
 East India Pickle. One hundred cucumbers (large and 
 small), one peck of green tomatoes, one-half peck of onions, 
 four cauliflowers, four red peppers (without the seeds), four 
 heads of celery, one pint of bottled horse-radish. Slice all, 
 and stand in salt twenty-four hours, then drain ; pour on 
 weak vinegar ; stand on stove until it comes to a boil ; then 
 drain again. Take one ounce of ground cinnamon, one 
 ounce of ground tumeric, one-half pound of mustard, one- 
 quarter pound of brown sugar; wet these with cold vinegar; 
 add to this sufficient vinegar to moisten all the pickles. 
 Cook all together ten minutes. Seal in bottles while hot 
 
 French Pickle. Take one peck of green tomatoes, sliced ; 
 six large onions. Throw on them a teacupful of salt over night 
 Drain thoroughly, then boil in two quarts of water and one 
 quart of vinegar fifteen or twenty minutes; drain in colan^ 
 der ; then take four quarts of vinegar, two pounds of brown 
 sugar, one-half pound of white mustard-seed, two table- 
 spoonfuls of cloves, two tablespoonfuls of cinnamon, two 
 tablespoonfuls of ginger, two tablespoonfuls of ground 
 mustard, one teaspoonful of cayenne pepper ; put all to- 
 gether and cook fifteen minutes. 
 
 Piccallily. One peck of green tomatoes sliced, one-half 
 peck of onions sliced, one cauliflower, one peck of small cu- 
 cumbers. Leave in salt and water twenty-four hours ; then 
 put in a kettle with a handful of scraped horse-radish, one 
 ounce of tumeric, one ounce of whole cloves, one-quarter 
 pound of whole pepper, one ounce of cassia buds or cinna- 
 mon, one pound of white mustard-seed, one pound of Eng- 
 lish mustard. Put in kettle in layers, and cover with cold 
 vinegar. Boil fifteen minutes, constantly stirring. 
 
230 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 Chow-chow. One quart of large cucumbers, one quart ol 
 small ones ; two quarts of onions, four heads of cauliflower, 
 six green peppers, one quart of green tomatoes, one gallon 
 of vinegar, one pound of mustard, two cupfuls of sugar, two 
 cupfuls of flour, one ounce of tumeric. Put all in salt and 
 water one night ; cook all the vegetables in brine until 
 tender except the large cucumbers. Pour vinegar and 
 spices over all. 
 
 Sweet Pickles. Such fruit as peaches, plums, cherries, 
 grapes, etc., are very palatable when sweet pickkd. The 
 process is the same as for other light pickles, except that 
 the vinegar is sweetened to taste. 
 
 Sweet Tomato Pickles. Eight pounds of peeled tomatoes, 
 four of powdered sugar. Of cinnamon, cloves, and allspice, 
 each one ounce. Boil one hour, and add a quart of bailing 
 vinegar. 
 
 Tomato Catsup. Take one bushel of tomatoes ; boil soft, 
 and pass through a sieve. Add half a gallon of cider vinegar, 
 one pint of salt, two ounces of cloves, a quarter pound of 
 allspice, a half ounce of cayenne pepper. Boil until 
 reduced to half the quantity. When cool, bottle and cork 
 tightly. 
 
 Tomato Catsup, No. 2. Take one peck of ripe tomatoes, cut 
 up, boil tender, and strain through a wire sieve ; add one 
 large tablespoonful of ground cloves, one large tablespoon- 
 ful of allspice, one large tablespoonful of cinnamon, one tea- 
 spoonful of cayenne pepper, one-quarter pound of salt, one- 
 quarter pound of mustard, one pint of vinegar. Boil gently 
 three hours. Bottle and seal while warm. 
 
 Green Tomato Catsup. One peck of green tomatoes, one 
 dozen large onions, one-half pint of salt ; slice the tomatoes 
 and onions. To a layer of these add a layer of salt ; let 
 tand twenty-four hours, then drain. Add one-quarter pound 
 
PICKLES AND CATSUPS. 231 
 
 of mustard-seed, three dessertspoonfuls of sweet oil, one 
 ounce of allspice, one ounce of cloves, one ounce of ground 
 mustard, one ounce of ground ginger, two tablespoonfuls of 
 black pepper, two teaspoonfuls of celery-seed, one-quarter 
 pound of brown sugar. Put all into a preserving-pan, cover 
 with vinegar, and boil two hours. 
 
 CMli Sauce. Thirty tomatoes, three large onions, three 
 peppers, one tablespoonful each of allspice, cloves, and cin- 
 namon, two nutmegs, two tablespoonfuls of salt, one quart of 
 vinegar, one cupful of sugar. Chop the onions and pep- 
 pers very fine. Cook the tomatoes somewhat first. Mix 
 thoroughly. 
 
 Tomato Soy. One-half bushel of green tomatoes, three 
 onions, three green peppers, one-quarter pound of mustard- 
 seed, three cupfuls of sugar, three cabbages. Chop the 
 tomatoes and onions together fine; add to one gallon of the 
 tomatoes one cupful of salt; let stand twenty-four hours, 
 drain, and add the peppers (chopped fine), mustard-seed, 
 sugar, and other spices to taste. Moisten all with vinegar 
 and cook until tender. Before bottling, add the cabbages 
 (chopped), and one cupful of chopped horse-radish. 
 
 Grape Catsup. Take five pints of grapes; simmer until 
 soft, then put through a colander ; add to them two pints of 
 brown sugar, one pint of vinegar, two tablespoonfuls of all- 
 spice, two tablespoonfuls of cinnamon, two tablespoonfuls of 
 cloves, one and one-half teaspoonfuls of mace, one teaspoon- 
 ful of salt, one and one-half teaspoonfuls of red pepper. Boil 
 till thick ; then bottle and seal tightly. 
 
 Walnut Catsup. The vinegar in which walnuts have been 
 pickled, when they have remained in it a year, will generally 
 answer all the purposes for which this catsup is required, 
 particularly if it be drained from them and boiled for a few 
 minutes, with a little additional spice and a few eschalots; 
 but where the vinegar is objected to, it may be made by 
 
WOMAtt 
 
 boiling either the expressed juice of young walnuts for an 
 hour, with six ounces of fine anchovies, four ounces of 
 eschalots, half an ounce of black pepper, a quarter ounce of 
 cloves, and a drachm of mace to every quart. 
 
 Walnut Catsup, No. 2. Pound in a mortar a hundred young 
 walnuts, strewing among them as they are done half a 
 pound of salt ; then pour to them a quart of strong vinegar 
 and let them stand until they have become quite black, 
 keeping them stirred three or four times a day ; next add a 
 quart of strong, old beer, and boil the whole together for ten 
 minutes ; strain it, and let it remain until the next day ; then 
 pour it off clear from the sediment, add to it one large head 
 of garlic bruised, half an ounce of nutmegs bruised, the same 
 quantity of cloves and black pepper, and two drachms of 
 mace ; boil these together for half an hour, and the follow- 
 ing day bottle and cork the catsup well. 
 
 A bottle of port wine may be added before bottling, if de- 
 sired, and a large bunch of sweet herbs. 
 
 Oyster Catsup. Take fine, large fresh oysters, opened care- 
 fully, and wash them in their own liquor. To take any par- 
 ticle of shell that may remain, strain the liquor after. Pound 
 the oysters in a mortar, add the liquor, and to every pint 
 put a pint of sherry ; boil it up and skim ; then add two 
 anchovies, pounded, an ounce of common salt, two drachms 
 of pounded mace, and one of cayenne. Let it boil up, then 
 skim, and rub it through a sieve. Bottle when cold and 
 seal it. What remains in the sieve will do for oyster sauce. 
 
 ), No. 2. One quart oysters, one tablespoon- 
 ful salt, one tablespoonful cayenne pepper, one tablespoonful 
 mace, one teacupful cider vinegar, one teacupful sherry. 
 Chop the oysters, and boil in their own liquor with the tea^ 
 cupful of vinegar, skimming the skum as it rises. Boil three 
 minutes, strain through a hair cloth, return the liquor to the 
 
PICKLES AND CATSUPS. 233 
 
 fire; add the wine, pepper, salt, and mace. Boil fifteen 
 minutes, and when cold, bottle for use, 
 
 Mushroom Catsup with Spice. Take full-grown and fresh- 
 gathered mushrooms ; put a layer of these at the bottom of 
 a deep earthen pan and sprinkle them with salt ; then another 
 layer of mushrooms ; sprinkle more salt on them, and so on 
 alternately. Let them stand for two or three hours, by 
 which time the salt will have penetrated the mushrooms and 
 have made them easy to break ; then pound them in a mor- 
 tar, or break them well with your hands ; let them remain 
 in this state for two days, not more, washing them well once 
 or twice a day ; then pour them into a stone jar, and to each 
 quart add an ounce and a half of whole black pepper and 
 half an ounce of allspice ; stop the jar very close, and set it 
 in a saucepan of boiling water and keep it boiling for two 
 hours at least. Take out the jar and pour the juice clear 
 from the settlings through a hair sieve into a clean stewpan, 
 and boil it very gently on a slow fire for half an hour. 
 
 Mushroom Catsup without Spice. Sprinkle a little salt over 
 your mushrooms. Three hours after, mash them ; next day, 
 strain off the liquor and boil it till it is reduced to half. It 
 will not keep long, but an artificial mushroom bed will 
 supply this, the very best mushroom catsup, all the year 
 round. 
 
XVIII. BEVERAGES. 
 
 HINTS ON HOME BEVERAGES ; USE GOOD MATERIALS ; WHAT TEA 
 
 is; KINDS OF TEA; ITS VALUE AS A BEVERAGE; KINDS OF 
 
 COFFEE ; ADULTERATIONS OF COFFEE ; HOW TO GET IT PURE ; 
 
 HOW TO RETAIN ITS FLAVOR; THE COFFEEPOT; CHOCOLATE 
 AND ITS PREPARATION; OTHER BEVERAGES. THIRTY-THREE 
 RECIPES FOR BEVERAGES. 
 
 ASIDE from the spirituous and malt liquors, the composi- 
 tion of which is not attempted in the household, there 
 is a long line of beverages concerning which some 
 hints are of value. In general, it may be said, employ good 
 materials, and do not stint them in quantity, if you want 
 good results. What is worth doing at all in culinary lines 
 is worth doing well, and beverages, being in the line of lux- 
 uries, should be good, if not positively luxuriant. 
 
 Tea is the leaf of the tea-tree cured in various ways, and 
 so appearing in the various forms known to commerce. 
 Black teas are subjected to the action of heat far beyond the 
 green teas. The green teas go through a greening process 
 also, the healthfullness of which may well be questioned. 
 
 Of the black teas, the Pekoe is the earliest gathered and 
 mildest, while the Souchong, the Congou, and the Bohea 
 are respectively older in growth and stronger in flavor. 
 
 Of the green teas, the Young Hyson is from the tenderest 
 and mildest leaf, the Gunpowder, Hyson, and Twankay 
 being of older growth respectively and of stronger flavor. 
 The treatment of all these leaves, as well as their age, ara 
 important factors in their final quality. 
 
 234 
 
BEVERAGES. 
 
 The nutritive Value of tea is not appreciable, but as an ex- 
 citant of respiratory action and a promoter of digestion it is 
 very valuable. Tea should be kept closely covered in air- 
 tight canisters, in order that the flavor may be retained. 
 
 Coffee will grow in any climate where the temperature 
 does not fall below fifty-five degrees. The best brands are 
 the Mocha and the Java, but South America supplies the 
 largest amount used in this country, which is sold under the 
 general name of Rio. Coffee is often wretchedly adulterated, 
 especially when sold in the roasted and ground form. It is 
 safer to buy it green and to roast and grind it at home. 
 
 Roasted coffee should be kept in tight canisters or boxes, 
 and it should be ground only as it is wanted for use. The 
 coffeepot must be scalded clean and occasionally with soda, 
 so that the inside may be absolutely pure. 
 
 Chocolate should never be made except it is intended to 
 be used immediately. By allowing it to become cold or 
 by boiling it again, the flavor is injured, the oily particles of 
 the cocoa are separated and rise to the surface also, and they 
 will never blend pleasantly again. 
 
 Other beverages are in occasional use, but those already 
 mentioned are the standards in this land. 
 
 RECIPES. 
 
 . People must consult their own tastes as to the kind 
 of tea. A mixed tea is generally preferred, combining the 
 flavors of both green and black. Allow one teaspoonful 
 for each person. Use boiling water, but do not boil the tea, 
 and use while fresh. Tea is best made in an earthen teaoot 
 It should never be made in tin. 
 
 Iced Tea. Iced tea should be made several hours before it 
 is needed and then set upon ice. When ready to use it, 
 sweeten and drink without milk or cream. Use cracked ice 
 
236 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 to put into the glass. The tea must be extra strong, and da 
 not stint the ice. 
 
 Tea a la Russe. Slice fresh, juicy lemons; pare them 
 carefully, lay a piece in the bottom of each cup ; sprinkle 
 with white sugar and pour the tea, very hot and strong, 
 over them. 
 
 Iced Tea a la Russe. To each goblet of cold tea (without 
 cream) add the juice of half a lemon. Fill up with 
 pounded ice and sweeten well. A glass of champagne 
 added to this makes what is called Russian punch. 
 
 Coffee. To make choicest coffee, take equal quantities of 
 Java and Mocha ; grind finely together, allowing about two 
 teaspoonfuls of ground coffee to each person ; add an egg 
 with its shell and a very little cold water ; stir this thor- 
 oughly together and turn on boiling water. Set the pot on 
 the back of the range for five minutes ; then draw forward 
 and allow it to boil up just an instant; clear the spout by 
 pouring from it and returning it in the top of the pot. Then 
 serve at once with plenty of cream and sugar. 
 
 Iced Coffee. Make the coffee extra strong. When it is 
 cold, mix with an equal quantity of fresh cream ; sweeten to 
 taste, and freeze as in ice-cream, or serve with abundance of 
 broken ice. 
 
 Cafe Noir. This is the strongest preparation of coffee, its 
 very essence, indeed. It is used after dessert at course din- 
 ners. Make the coffee strong and clear as possible, but use 
 only one-third the ordinary quantity of water. Serve with 
 lump sugar, with which it should be highly sweetened, and 
 use very small cups. Cream may be added if desired. 
 
 Meringued Coffee. For six cupfuls of coffee take about 
 one cupful of sweet cream, whipped light, with a little sugar. 
 Put into each cup the desired amount of sugar and about 
 a tablespoonful of boiling milk. Pour the coffee over these. 
 
BEVERAGES. 237 
 
 and lay upon the surface of the hot liquid a large spoonful 
 of the frothed cream. Give a gentle stir to each cup before 
 sending it from the tray. 
 
 Frothed Cafe an Lait Pour into the table urn one quart 
 of strong, clear coffee, strained through muslin, and one 
 quart of boiling milk, alternating them, and stirring gently. 
 Cover and wrap a thick cloth about the urn for five minutes 
 before it goes to table. Have ready in a cream-pitcher the 
 whites of three eggs, beaten stiff, and one tablespoonful of 
 powdered sugar, whipped with them. Put a large spoonful 
 of this froth upon each cupful of coffee as you pour it out, 
 heaping it slightly in the centre. 
 
 Chocolate. Scrape fine one square of a cake, which is one 
 ounce ; add to it an equal weight of sugar ; put these into 
 a pint of boiling milk and water, each one-half, and stir well 
 for two or three minutes until the sugar and chocolate are 
 well dissolved. This preparation may be improved by 
 adding a well-beaten egg or two and stirring briskly through 
 the mixture with a Dover egg-beater. A teaspoonful ol 
 vanilla extract added just before sending to table is a valua- 
 ble addition. 
 
 ;_ Frothed Chocolate. One cupful of boiling water; three 
 pints of fresh milk ; three tablespoonfuls of Baker's ehoco- 
 late, grated ; five eggs, the whites only, beaten light, and two 
 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar for froth. Sweeten the 
 chocolate to taste ; heat the milk to scalding ; wet up the 
 chocolate with the boiling water, and when the milk is hot, 
 stir this into it; simmer gently ten minutes, stirring fre- 
 quently ; boil up briskly once ; take from the fire ; sweeten 
 to taste, taking care not to make it too sweet, and stir in the 
 whites of two eggs, whipped stiff, without sugar ; pour into 
 the chocolate pot or pitcher, which should be well heated. 
 Have ready in a cream-pitcher the remaining 
 
238 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 whipped up with the powdered sugar ; cover the surface of 
 each cup with the sweetened meringue before distributing to 
 the guests. 
 
 Choca. This beverage, a favorite with many, is made by 
 mixing coffee and chocolate, as prepared for the table, in 
 equal quantities, and serving hot for breakfast. 
 
 Broma. Dissolve a large tablespoonful of Baker's broma 
 in as much warm water ; then pour upon it a pint of boiling 
 milk and water, in equal proportions, and boil it two min- 
 utes longer, stirring it frequently ; add sugar at pleasure. 
 
 Breakfast Cocoa. Into a breakfast cup put a teaspoonful of 
 the powder, add a tablespoonful of boiling water, and mix 
 thoroughly. Then add equal parts of boiling water and 
 boiled milk, and sugar to the taste. Boiling two or three 
 minutes will improve it. 
 
 Cocoa Shells. Take a small quantity of cocoa shells (say 
 two ounces), pour upon them three pints of boiling water, 
 boil rapidly thirty or forty minutes; allow it to settle 
 or strain, and add cream or boiling milk and sugar at 
 pleasure. 
 
 Lemonade. Squeeze the juice of lemons, and add sugar 
 and ice-water to taste. 
 
 Concentrated Lemonade. Make a rich sirup of two and a 
 half pounds of sugar and one pint of cold water and boil 
 gradually. Pour it hot on one and a half ounces of citric 
 acid. Bottle tight while hot. One tablespoonful will make 
 a tumblerful of lemonade. 
 
 Portable Lemonade. Mix a quarter pound of white sugar 
 with the grated rind of a large, juicy lemon. Pour upon 
 this the strained juice of the lemon and pack in a jar. One 
 tablespoonful will suffice for a glass of water. 
 
 Egg Nog. To the yelks of six eggs, add six tablespoon- 
 tils of powdered sugar, one quart of new milk, a half pint 
 
BEVERAGES. 239 
 
 of French brandy, and one pint of Madeira wine. Beat the 
 whites up separately, and stir them through the mixture just 
 before pouring into glasses for use. 
 
 Roman Punch. Beat stiff the whites of three eggs, with a 
 half pound of powdered sugar. Add three teacupfuls of 
 strong, sweet lemonade, one wineglassful each of rum and 
 champagne, and the juice of two oranges. Ice abundantly, 
 or freeze. 
 
 Milk Punch. Boil one quart of milk, warm from the cow. 
 Beat up the yelks of four eggs and four tablespoonfuls oi 
 powdered sugar together; add two glasses of the best 
 sherry wine ; pour into a pitcher, and mix with it the boil- 
 ing milk, stirring all the time. Pour from one vessel to 
 another six times ; add cinnamon and nutmeg to taste, and 
 serve as soon as it can be swallowed without scalding the 
 throat. 
 
 Currant and Raspberry Shrub. Pound four quarts of ripe 
 currants and three quarts of red raspberries in a stone jar or 
 wide-mouthed crock with a wooden beetle. Squeeze out 
 every drop of the juice; put this into a porcelain, enamel, 
 or very clean bell-metal kettle, and boil hard ten minutes. 
 Put in four pounds of loaf sugar at the end of the ten min- 
 utes, and boil up once to throw the scum to the top ; skim 
 and let it get perfectly cold ; then skim off all remaining 
 impurities ; add one quart of the best brandy and shake 
 hard for five minutes. Bottle, seal the corks, and lay the 
 bottles on their sides in dry sawdust. 
 
 Currant Wine. One quart of currant juice, three pounds 
 of brown sugar, and one gallon of water ; dissolve the sugar 
 in the water, then add the juice ; when it ferments, add a 
 little fresh water each day till it is done fermenting, which 
 will be in from a month and a half to two months ; turn it 
 off, scald the keg, put it in again, and cork tightly. 
 
240 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 Raspberry Wine. Bruise the raspberries with the back of 
 a spoon ; strain them through a flannel bag ; add one pound 
 of loaf sugar to one quart of juice ; stir well and cover 
 closely, letting it stand for three days, stirring well each 
 day. Pour off the clear juice and add one quart of juice 
 to two quarts of sherry wine; bottle it and use in two 
 weeks. 
 
 Raspberry Brandy. Using brandy instead of wine, as 
 above, will produce a very valuable medicinal drink, Rasp- 
 berry Brandy. 
 
 Raspberry Vinegar. Take three pints of red berries ; pour 
 over them one pint of cider vinegar and let stand twenty- 
 four hours. Strain, and to one pint of juice add one 
 pound of sugar ; boil one-half hour, and when cold, bottle 
 for use. 
 
 Cherry Brandy. Use either morello cherries or small black 
 cherries ; pick them from the stalks ; fill the bottles nearly 
 up to the necks, then fill up with brandy (some use whisky, 
 gin, or spirit distilled from the lees of wine). In three 
 weeks or a month strain off the spirit ; to each quart add 
 one pound of loaf sugar clarified, and flavor with tincture 
 of cinnamon or cloves. 
 
 Sherbet. In a quart of water boil six or eight sticks of 
 rhubarb ten minutes ; strain the boiling liquor on the thin 
 shaved rind of a lemon. Two ounces of clarified sugar, 
 with a wineglassful of brandy, stir to the above, and let it 
 stand five or six hours before using. 
 
 Ginger Beer. Two ounces of ginger to a pint of molasses ; 
 add a gallon of warm water; stir it well, and add half a pint 
 of lively yeast. If you wish it sweeter or hotter, add gin- 
 ger or molasses before putting in the yeast, to suit your 
 taste. 
 
EVE RAGES. 34 | 
 
 Spruce Beer. To three gallons of boiling water, add two 
 pounds of molasses and two ounces of essence of spruce. 
 Let the mixture cool, and when lukewarm, add a scant gill 
 of yeast and set aside to ferment. While the fermentation 
 goes on, skim frequently. When it becomes inactive, put in 
 stone bottles and tie the corks down. White sugar may be 
 used instead of molasses, and will give a better color. 
 
 Quick Beer. To fourteen quarts of water add one quart of 
 molasses, one quart of hop yeast, and four tablespoonfuls of 
 ginger. Mix well ; strain through a fine sieve ; bottle im- 
 mediately. Ready for use in twenty-four hours. 
 
 Imperial Mix in a jug one-half ounce of cream tartar 
 and one quart of boiling water ; flavor with lemon peel or 
 essence of lemon, and sweeten to taste. This is a refreshing 
 and pleasantly stimulating summer drink. 
 
 Mead, Mix six gallons of water with six quarts of 
 strained honey ; add the yellow rind of two large lemons, 
 pared thin, and the whites of three eggs beaten to a stiff 
 froth. Mix well and boil three-quarters of an hour, skim- 
 ming thoroughly. Pour into a tub, add three tablespoonfuls 
 of good yeast, and leave it ferment. When it is well worked> 
 pour into a barrel with some lemon peel, and let it stand six 
 months. Then bottle and tie down the corks. It is ready 
 for immediate use, or will keep for months in a cool place. 
 
XIX. CANDIES. 
 
 CARE NEEDED TO COOK CANDY; WHEN COOKED ENOUGH; FLAVOlb 
 ING, COOLING, AND PULLING. TWENTY-ONE RECIPES FOR CANDY. 
 
 THE great danger in candy-making is that of burning the 
 sugar. To properly cook the candy requires a heat of 
 about two hundred and fifty degrees. Less than that 
 heat will leave the candy soft and sticky. A very little more 
 than two hundred and sixty degrees will burn it. Here, 
 then, is the need of care in candy-making. 
 
 In the cooking, allow the heat to reach the bottom of the 
 pan only. Have a quick fire that the work may be done in 
 the shortest possible time. When cooked for about fifteen 
 minutes, test a spoonful of the mass upon a cold plate. If it 
 form a viscid, tenacious mass, which forms a long, adherent 
 thread when drawn out, then it is nearly done, and it needs 
 special care lest it burn before the work be completed. Test 
 frequently now, dropping a little in cold water. When the 
 hardened portion is crisp as a pipestem, the cooking has 
 gone far enough. Then comes the flavoring and coloring. 
 
 When the mass has cooled on a stone or buttered plate, 
 so that it can be handled, it is ready for pulling, rolling into 
 sticks, shaping into forms, etc. The pulling process is 
 simply a mechanical means of whitening the candy. It is 
 literally a pulling, the candy being thrown on a hook and 
 pulled out from it, then being thrown on it again and again 
 pulled, and so on, as may be desired, the longer pulling giv- 
 ing the whiter candy. 
 
 For home-made candies use pure materials and good 
 fruit. Enough of earths and starch and decayed fruits are 
 bought in the cheap candies of the stores. 
 
 243 
 
CANDIES. 243 
 
 RECIPES. 
 
 Molasses Candy. Three cupfuls of brown sugar, one-half 
 cupful of molasses, one cupful of water, one-half teaspoonful 
 of cream tartar, butter the size of a walnut. Bring to aboil, 
 and when crisp by testing in cold water, flavor ; pour out on 
 a. buttered plate, and pull to whiteness if desired. 
 
 Butter Scotch. Two cupfuls of sugar, two tablespoonfuls 
 of water, a piece of butter the size of an egg. Boil without 
 stirring, until it hardens on a spoon. Pour out on buttered 
 plates to cool. 
 
 Ice-cream Candy. Take two cupfuls of granulated sugar, 
 half a cupful of water, and add one-quarter of a teaspoonful 
 of cream tartar dissolved in a teaspoonful of boiling water. 
 Put it in a porcelain kettle, and boil ten minutes without 
 stirring it. Drop a few drops into a saucer of cold water or 
 on snow. If it become brittle, it is done ; if not, boil till it is. 
 Add a piece of butter half as large as an egg while it is on 
 the fire, and stir it in. Pour into a buttered tin, and set on 
 ice or snow to cool enough to pull it white. Flavor with 
 vanilla just before it is cool enough to pull. Work into 
 strands and cut into sticks. 
 
 Cream Candy. One pound of white sugar, three table, 
 spoonfuls of vinegar, one teaspoonful of lemon extract, one 
 teaspoonful of cream tartar. Add a little water to moisten 
 the sugar, and boil until brittle. Put in the extract, then 
 turn quickly out on buttered plates. When cool, pull until 
 white, and cut in squares. 
 
 Cocoanut Candy. Grate very fine a sound cocoanut, spread 
 it on a dish, and let it dry naturally for three days, as it will 
 not bear the heat of an oven, and is too oily for use when 
 freshly broken. Four ounces will be sufficient for a pound 
 of sugar for most tastes, but more can be used at pleasure. 
 To one pound of sugar, take one-half pint of water, a very 
 
244 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 little white of egg, and then pour over the sugar ; let il 
 stand for a short time, then place over a very clear fire, and 
 let it boil for a few minutes ; then set it one side until the 
 scum is subsided, clear it off, and boil the sugar until very 
 thick ; then strew in the nut, stir and mix it well, and do not 
 quit for an instant until it is finished. The pan should not 
 be placed on the fire, but over it, as the nut is liable to burn 
 with too fierce a heat. 
 
 Almond Candy. Proceed in the same way as for cocoanut 
 candy. Let the almonds be blanched and perfectly dry, and 
 do not throw them into the sugar until they approach the 
 candying point. 
 
 Candied Nuts and Fraits. Three cupfuls of sugar, one cup- 
 ful of water ; boil until it hardens when dropped in water, 
 then flavor with lemon. It must not boil after the lemon is 
 put in. Put a nut on the end of a fine knitting needle, take 
 out, and turn on the needle until it is cool. If the candy 
 gets cold, set on the stove for a few minutes. Malaga 
 grapes, and oranges quartered, may be candied in the same 
 way. 
 
 Chocolate Caramels. Two cupfuls of sugar, one cupful of 
 warm water, one-half cupful of grated chocolate, three- 
 fourths of a cupful of butter. Let it boil without stirring 
 until it snaps in water. 
 
 Chocolate Caramels, No. 2. One cupful of rich, sweet cream ; 
 one cupful of brown sugar ; one cupful of white sugar; seven 
 tablespoonfuls of vanilla chocolate ; one tablespoonful of 
 corn-starch, stirred in the cream ; one tablespoonful of but- 
 ter ; vanilla flavoring ; soda, the size of a pea, stirred into 
 cream. Boil all the ingredients, except the chocolate and 
 vanilla extract, half an hour, stirring to prevent burning. 
 Reserve half of the cream, and wet up the chocolate in it, 
 adding a very little water if necessary. Draw the saucepan 
 to the side of the range, and stir this in well ; put back on 
 
CAX&MS. 245 
 
 the fire and boil ten minutes longer, quite fast, stirring con- 
 stantly. When it makes a hard, glossy coat on the spoon, 
 it is done. Add the vanilla after taking it from the range. 
 Turn into shallow dishes, well buttered. When cold 
 enough to retain the impression of the knife, cut into 
 squares. 
 
 Lemon Taffy. Two cupfuls of white sugar, one cupful of 
 boiling water, one-quarter cupful of vinegar, one-half cupful 
 of butter ; flavor with lemon ; pour in buttered plates to cool. 
 
 Butter Taffy. One tablespoonful of vinegar, one cupful of 
 sugar, two tablespoonfuls of molasses, and a piece of buttef 
 the size of an egg. When done, add a little soda. 
 
 Cream Chocolates. For the creams, boil two cupfuls of 
 white sugar and one-half cupful of milk for five minutes ; 
 add one teaspoonful of vanilla, then beat until stiff enough 
 to handle and make into drops. 
 
 For the chocolate, take three-quarters of a half-pound cake 
 of Baker's chocolate, grate and steam over the teakettle. 
 Drop the creams when hard, one at a time, into the hot 
 chocolate, using two forks to take them out quickly ; set 
 the drop on one fork on the bottom, using the other fork to 
 scrape the chocolate off the cream ; gently slip the drop 
 upon a buttered dish. If, when cool, the drops stick to the 
 dish, hold it over the steam of the teakettle for an instant. 
 
 Chocolate Creams. Inside : Two cupfuls of sugar ; one cup- 
 ful of water ; one and a half tablespoonfuls of arrow-root ; 
 one teaspoonful of vanilla. Mix the ingredients, except the 
 vanilla ; let them boil from five to eight minutes ; stir all the 
 time. After this is taken from the fire, stir until it comes to 
 a cream. When it is nearly smooth, add the vanilla and 
 make the cream into balls. 
 
 Outside : Melt a half pound of Baker's chocolate, but do 
 not add water to it. Roll the cream balls into the chocolate 
 while it is warm. 
 
246 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOfc 
 
 Cream Walnuts. Two cupfuls sugar, two-thirds cupful 
 water. Boil without stirring until it will spin a thread; 
 flavor with vanilla. Set off into a dish with a little cold 
 water in it ; stir briskly until white and creamy. Have the 
 walnuts shelled ; make the cream into small, round cakes 
 with your fingers ; press half a walnut on either side, and 
 drop into sifted granulated sugar. 
 
 Cream Dates. For cream dates, take fresh California dates, 
 remove the stones, and fill the centre of dates with the same 
 cream as used in cream walnuts. Drop into sugar. 
 
 Peanut Candy. Boil one scant pint of molasses until it 
 hardens in cold water. Stir in two tablespoonfuls of vanilla, 
 then one teaspoonful of soda, dry. Lastly, the shelled pea- 
 nuts, taken from four quarts measured before shelling. 
 Turn out into shallow pans well buttered, and press it down 
 smooth with a wooden spoon. 
 
 Philadelphia Groundnut Cakes. Boil two pounds of light 
 brown sugar in a preserving kettle, with enough water to 
 wet it thoroughly and form a sirup. Have ready a quarter 
 of a peck of groundnuts (peanuts). When the sugar begins 
 to boil, throw in the white of an egg to clear it. Skim and 
 try by dropping a little into cold water to see if brittle or 
 done. When it is brittle, remove from the fire, and stir in 
 the nuts. Drop on wet plates, free from grease. The white 
 of egg may be omitted. 
 
 Gum Drops. Dissolve one pound of gum arabic in one and 
 a half pints of water; strain and add one pound of refined 
 sugar ; beat until the sugar is entirely dissolved. Flavor to 
 taste, and add coloring if desired. Then evaporate with a 
 slow heat until the mass is thick as honey. Have a shallow 
 box, or dish of fine starch ; in this make a series of dents 
 with a rounded stick, the size desired for the gum drops. 
 Into cacn of these indentations drop from a spout, or a 
 
CANDIES. 247 
 
 spoon, just enough of the thickened mass to fill the cavity, 
 then set away in a warm place till the drops become suffi- 
 ciently set to allow handling. This may require several 
 days. 
 
 Jujube Paste. Dissolve gum arabic, and add sugar as for 
 gum drops. Evaporate till very thick, and while still warm 
 flavor and pour out into shallow tin pans to cool. 
 
 Fig Paste. Chop up one pound of figs, and boil in a pint 
 of water till reduced to a soft pulp. Strain through a fine 
 sieve, and add three pounds of sugar. Evaporate over boil- 
 ing water till the paste becomes stiff, then pour it into a 
 mold of wooden strips tied together. When cool, cut into 
 squares ; sugar each well, and put away for use. Flavors 
 may be added to taste, or fresh fruits may be mingled with 
 the paste. 
 
 Peppermint Drops. Mix granulated sugar with enough 
 water to form a paste, and put it to boil in a saucepan hav- 
 ing a lip from which the contents can be poured or dropped. 
 Allow it come almost, but not entirely, to a boil. Stir con- 
 tinually. Allow it to cool a little, and flavor to taste with 
 strong essence of peppermint. Then drop the mass on 
 sheets of tin or of white paper. To drop it properly, allow 
 just enough to gather at the lip of the saucepan, and then 
 stroke it off with a piece of stiff wire. They should dry in 
 a warm, place. 
 
XX. INVALID DIET. 
 
 INVALIDS NEED THE BEST OF DIET ; WHAT INVALID DIET SHOULD 
 FURNISH; "SICK-DIET KITCHENS;" HOME COOKING FOR THE 
 SICK. THIRTY RECIPES FO* SICK-ROOM DIET. 
 
 WHAT is more disgusting to an invalid than to be 
 served with a liberal supply of food adapted to a 
 laboring man or to a person in robust health ? Deli- 
 cate appetites need to be delicately appealed to with dainty 
 dishes, nicely served. But these dishes must be nourishing 
 and easily digested. In short, the problem in sick-room 
 diet is, how to furnish the patient the most valuable nutri- 
 tion in the pleasantest form, and with the least tax upon his 
 enfeebled powers. 
 
 To meet this need, organized movements have been made 
 in many cities in the line of " Sick-Diet Kitchens." Benevo- 
 lent contributions and skilled work are the corner-stones of 
 these institutions. The foods are well prepared by compe- 
 tent hands. The sick who choose to purchase delicacies 
 which can be relied on, can find them at these places. 
 Those who are too poor to purchase, but who are deserving, 
 can have them free. Instruction concerning diet for the sick 
 is given also. 
 
 But many cannot reach such establishments, and do not 
 care to if they can ; hence the chapter of directions given 
 below. If anywhere in cookery good materials and skillful 
 manipulation are of value it is in cooking for the sick. 
 
 RECIPES. 
 
 Beef Tea. One pound of lean beef, cut into small pieces, 
 into a jar without a drop of water, cover tightly, set in 
 
 248 
 
INVALID DIET. 249 
 
 a pot of cold water. Heat gradually to a boil, and continue 
 this steadily for three or four hours, until the meat is like 
 white rags and the juice all drawn out. Season with salt to 
 taste, and when cold, skim. The patient will often prefer 
 this ice-cold. 
 
 Beef Tea, No. 2. Take lean, juicy beef, chopped very feiely ; 
 cover with cold water, and set on back of the range for two 
 hours; then draw forward, allowing it to heat gradually; 
 then boil for five minutes. Season and strain. 
 
 Mutton Broth. One pound of lean mutton, cut small ; one 
 quart of water, cold ; one tablespoonful of rice or barley, 
 soaked in a very little warm water; four tablesp&onfuls 
 of milk, salt and pepper, with a little chopped parsley. 
 Boil the meat, unsalted, in the water, keeping it closely 
 covered, until it falls to pieces. Strain it out, add the soaked 
 barley or rice; simmer half an hour, stirring often; stir in 
 the seasoning and the milk, and simmer five minuter after it 
 heats up well, taking care it does not burn. Serve hot, with 
 cream crackers. 
 
 CMcken Broth. Proceed precisely as above, but substitute 
 chicken for mutton. 
 
 Chicken Jelly. Half a raw chicken, pounded with a mallet, 
 bones and meat together ; plenty of cold water to cover it 
 well, about a quart. Heat slowly in a covered vessel, and 
 let it simmer until the meat is in white rags and the liquid 
 reduced one-half. Strain and press, first through a colan- 
 der, then through a coarse cloth. Salt to taste, and pepper 
 if you think best; return to the fire, and simmer five min- 
 utes longer. Skim when cool. Give to the patient cold 
 just from the ice with unleavened wafers. Keep on the 
 ice, or make into sandwiches by putting the jelly between 
 thin slices of bread spread lightly with butter. 
 
 Soft Boiled Eggs. Put in a pan of boiling water, and set on 
 ft part Qf the range where they Will not bpil for several 
 
250 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 utes. At the end of that time they will be like jelly, per- 
 fectly soft, but beautifully done, and quite digestible by even 
 weak stomachs. 
 
 Egg Gruel. Beat the yelk of one egg with one tablespoon- 
 ful of sugar ; pour one teacupful of boiling water on it ; add 
 the white of the egg beaten to a froth, with any seasoning 
 or spice desired. To be taken warm. 
 
 Raw Egg. Break a fresh egg into a glass, beat until very 
 light, sweeten to taste, and add two tablespoonfuls of port 
 wine, then beat again. 
 
 Egg Cream. Beat a raw egg to a stiff froth ; add a table- 
 spoonful of white sugar and a half wineglass of good black- 
 berry wine; add half a glass of cream; beat together 
 thoroughly, and use at once. 
 
 Indian-meal GrueL One tablespoonful of fine Indian-meal, 
 mixed smooth with cold water and a saltspoonful of salt ; 
 pour upon this a pint of boiling water and turn into a sauce- 
 pan to boil gently for half an hour ; thin it with boiling 
 water if it thickens too much, and stir frequently ; when it 
 is done, a tablespoonful of cream or a little new milk may 
 be put in to cool it after straining, but if the patient's stom- 
 ach is weak it is best without either. Some persons like it 
 sweetened and a little nutmeg added, but to many it is more 
 palatable plain. 
 
 Oatmeal GrneL Soak a handful of oatmeal over night in 
 water, in order that the acid gases which oatmeal contains 
 may be withdrawn. Pour off the water, and add a pint of 
 fresh ; stir it well, add salt, and boil an hour and a half. 
 This is much used, prepared in this way, by dyspeptics. 
 
 Sago. Soak and wash it well ; add a pint of water, a little 
 salt, and boil till clear. Add lemon-juice or wine, if 
 permitted. 
 
 Arrow-root JeUy.Boil a pint of water with a few bits of 
 
INVALID DIET. 251 
 
 cinnamon or yellow rind of lemon ; stir into it two table- 
 spoonfuls of arrow-root, dissolved in a little water ; boil ten 
 minutes ; strain, salt, and season with sugar, wine, and nut- 
 meg, if proper. 
 
 Arrow-root Broth. Put half a pint of water into a sauce- 
 pan ; add a little lemon-juice, sugar and nutmeg, and a very 
 little salt. Boil it up, and stir in a teaspoonful of dissolved 
 arrow-root ; boil five minutes. It should be taken warm 
 and be very thin. 
 
 Cracked Wheat. To one quart of hot water take one small 
 teacupful of cracked wheat and a little salt ; boil slowly for 
 half an hour, stirring occasionally to prevent burning. Serve 
 with sugar and cream or new milk. 
 
 Cracker Panada. Six Boston crackers, split; two table^ 
 spoonfuls of white sugar, a good pinch of salt, and a little 
 nutmeg ; enough boiling water to cover them well. Split the 
 crackers, and pile in a bowl in layers, salt and sugar scat* 
 tered among them. Cover with boiling water and set on 
 the hearth, with a close top over the bowl, for at least an 
 hour. The crackers should be almost clear and soft as jelly, 
 but not broken. Eat from the bowl with more sugar 
 sprinkled in. 
 
 Bread Panada. Set a little water on the fire in a very 
 clean saucepan ; add a glass of wine, if allowed, some sugar, 
 nutmeg, and lemon-peel. The moment it boils up stir in a 
 few crumbs of stale baker's loaf. Let it boil very fast for 
 five minutes. It should be only thick enough to drink. 
 
 Chicken Panada. Boil a chicken ; take a few bits of the 
 breast and pound fine in a mortar. Season it with a little 
 salt, a grate of nutmeg, and a bit of lemon-peel ; boil gently 
 till a little thick, but so that it can be drank. 
 
 Soft Toast Some invalids like this very much indeed, and 
 nearly all do when it is nicely made, Toast well, but 
 
252 EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 
 
 too brown, a couple of thin slices of bread ; put them on a 
 warm plate and pour over boiling water ; cover quickly with 
 another plate of the same size, and drain the water off; re- 
 move the upper plate, butter the toast, put it in the oven 
 one minute, and then cover again with a hot plate and serve 
 at once. 
 
 Milk Porridge. Two cupfuls of best oatmeal, two cupfuls 
 of water, two cupfuls of milk. Soak the oatmeal over night 
 in the water; strain in the morning, and boil the water half 
 an hour. Put in the milk with a little salt, boil up well, and 
 serve. Eat warm, with or without powdered sugar. 
 
 Thickened Milk. With a little milk, mix smooth a table- 
 spoonful of flour and a pinch of salt. Pour upon it a quart 
 of boiling milk, and when both are thoroughly mingled put 
 all back into the saucepan and boil up once, being careful 
 not to burn, and stirring all the time to keep it perfectly 
 smooth and free from lumps. Serve with slices of dry toast. 
 It is excellent in diarrhoea, and becomes a specific by scorch- 
 ing the flour before mixing with the milk. 
 
 Toast Water. Toast stale bread until quite brown, but do 
 not burn it ; put it into a large bowl, and pour over it boil- 
 ing water ; let it stand for an hour or so, strain, and put in 
 a piece of ice before drinking. 
 
 Barley Water. Soak one pint of barley in lukewarm water 
 for a few minutes ; then drain off the water. Put the barley 
 in three quarts of cold water and cook slowly until the 
 barley is quite soft, skimming occasionally. This barley 
 water, when cold, flavor with a little jelly or lemonade. 
 
 Bice Milk Pick and wash the rice carefully ; boil it in 
 water until it swells and softens ; when the water is partly 
 boiled away, add some milk. It may be boiled entirely in 
 milk, by setting the vessel in which the rice is in boiling 
 water ; sweeten with white sugar and season with nutmeg. 
 It also may be thickened with a little flour or beaten egg. 
 
INVALID DIET. 263 
 
 Flaxseed Tea. One-half pound of flaxseed, one-half pound 
 of rock candy, and three lemons pared and sliced; pour 
 over this two quarts of boiling water ; let it stand until very 
 cold ; strain before drinking. This is good for a cougk. 
 
 Appleade. Cut two large apples in slices, and pour on 
 them one pint of boiling water; strain well and sweeten. 
 Ice it before drinking. 
 
 Apple Water. Roast two large, tart apples until they are 
 soft. Put them in a pitcher, pour a pint of cold water on 
 them, and let them stand in a cool place for an hour. No 
 sweetening is needed. This drink will be found very 
 refreshing if the patient have fever or eruptive diseases. 
 
 
 
 Roast Apples. Good-sized, juicy, tart apples are best for 
 roasting. Wipe them clean, and put in a slow oven, allow- 
 ing an hour for the work of roasting. When entirely done, 
 sift fine, white sugar over them, and serve warm or cold, as 
 desired. 
 
 Wine Whey. Sweeten one pint of milk to taste, and when 
 boiling throw in two wineglassfuls of sherry ; when the curd 
 forms, strain the whey through a muslin bag into tumblers 
 
 Blackberry Sirup. One quart of blackberry juice, one 
 pound of sugar, one-half ounce of nutmeg, one-half ounce 
 ot cinnamon, one-fourth of an ounce of cloves, one-fourth 
 of an ounce of allspice. 
 
GENERAL HINTS. 
 
 AFTER the broad scope of this book has been covered, 
 there still remain many things to be said. They are 
 hardly worth discussion ; mere statement is sufficient. 
 They are hints merely on a variety of subjects. Let it not 
 be supposed that every suggestion here given has been 
 subjected to test by the editor of the department. But 
 every one has been culled from a trustworthy source and 
 has been subjected to careful scrutiny. All of them are 
 worth trying; but try them conscientiously. More pre- 
 scriptions have failed from unskillful handling than from 
 inherent defect. An Irish cook who delayed some fifteen 
 minutes when his master had ordered a soft-boiled egg, 
 excused himself by declaring that it had boiled fast all the 
 time, but showed no signs whatever of becoming soft. So 
 many other domestic manipulators fail. 
 
 HINTS FOR THE KITCHEN. 
 
 To Keep Meat Fresh. Take a quart of best vinegar, two 
 ounces of lump sugar, two ounces of salt. Boil these 
 together for a few minutes, and when cold anoint with a 
 brush the meat to be preserved. For fish the mixture is to 
 be applied inside ; for poultry, both in and outside. Or : 
 Place the meat in the centre of a clean earthenware vessel 
 and closely surround it with common charcoal. Or : Cover 
 the meat lightly with bran and hang it in some passage 
 where there is a current of air. 
 
 To Make Poultry Tender. Give the fowl, shortly before 
 killing, a tablespoonful of vinegar, 
 
EVERY WO^tAN HER OWN COOK. 255 
 
 To Test Mushrooms. In eatable mushrooms the stalk and 
 top are dirty white and the lower part has a lining of salmon 
 fringe, which changes to russet or brown soon after they 
 are gathered. The poisonous manifest all colors, and those 
 which are dead white above and below should be let alone. 
 Sprinkle salt on the spongy part, and if they turn yellow 
 they are poisonous, but if they become black they are 
 good. Let the salt remain on a little while before you 
 decide on the color. Mushrooms are in season during 
 September and October. 
 
 To Keep Flour SweetInsert a triangular tube of boards 
 or tin bored full of small holes, into the centre of the barrel, 
 which allows the air to reach the middle of the meal, and it 
 never gets musty. A barrel of good flour, dry as it appears 
 to be, contains from twelve to sixteen pounds of water. 
 
 To Test Coal Oil. Pour a little oil in an iron spoon and 
 heat it over a lamp until it is moderately warm to the 
 touch. If the oil produces vapor which can be set on fire 
 by a flame held a short distance above the liquid, it is bad. 
 
 To Remove Clinkers. Throw half a dozen broken oyster 
 shells into the fire when the coal is all aglow, and cover 
 them with fresh coal. When all are red hot the clinkers 
 become doughy, and are easily removed. 
 
 Cheap Fire-Kindler. Melt three pounds of rosin in a quart 
 of tar, and stir in as much saw-dust and pulverized charcoal 
 as you can. Spread the mass upon a board till cool, then 
 break into lumps as big as your thumb. Light it with a 
 match. 
 
 To Keep a Broom. If a broom be inserted every week in 
 boiling suds, it will be toughened and last much longer, will 
 not cut the carpet, and will remain elastic as a new broom. 
 
 To Preserve Oil-cloths. An oil-cloth should never be 
 scrubbed j but after being swept it should be cleaned with 
 
256; GENERAL HINTS. 
 
 ft soft cloth and lukewarm or cold water. Never use soap, 
 or water that is hot. When dry, sponge it over with milk ; 
 then wipe with a soft, dry cloth. 
 
 To Prevent a Lamp from Smoking. Soak the wick in vine- 
 gar, and dry it well before using. 
 
 To Remove Rust from Steel. Cover with sweet oil, well 
 rubbed on, and let it remain forty-eight hours, then rub 
 With unslacked lime powdered fine. 
 
 To Prevent Rust. Take one pint of fat-oil varnish, mixed 
 with five pints of highly rectified spirits of turpentine, and 
 rub with a sponge on bright stoves or mathematical instru- 
 ments, and they will never contract spots of rust. 
 
 To Freshen Stale Bread or Cake. Plunge the loaf one 
 instant in cold water and lay it upon a tin in the stove for 
 ten or fifteen minutes. It will be like new bread, without 
 its deleterious qualities. Stale cake is thus made as nice as 
 new cake. Use immediately. 
 
 To Soften Hard Water. Put half an ounce of quicklime in 
 nine quarts of water. This solution in a barrel of hard 
 water will make it soft. A teaspoonful of sal soda will 
 soften from three to four pails of hard water. 
 
 Time of Boiling Green Vegetables. This depends very much 
 upon the age, and how long they have been gathered. The 
 younger and more freshly gathered, the more quickly they 
 are cooked. The following is Miss Parloa's time-table for 
 cooking : 
 
 Green Corn, 25 minutes to I hour. 
 
 Potatoes, boiled, . . 30 minutes. 
 Potatoes, baked, . . 45 minutes. 
 Sweet Potatoes, boiled, 45 minutes. 
 Sweet Potatoes, baked, . I hour. 
 Squash, boiled, . . 25 minutes. 
 Squash, baked, . . 45 minutes. 
 Green Peas, boiled, 20 to 40 minutes. 
 Shell Beans, boiled, . . I hour. 
 String Beans, boiled, , i to 3 houn, 
 
 40 
 
 Asparagus, . . 1 5 to 30 minutes. 
 Spinach, . . . . I to 2 hours. 
 Tomatoes, fresh, . . . I hour. 
 Tomatoes, canned, . 30 minutes. 
 Cabbage, . 45 minutes to 2 hours. 
 Cauliflower, . . . I to 2 hours. 
 Dandelions, t , f a to 3 houn 
 
EVERY WOMAN HER OWN COOK. 25? 
 
 Keeping Hams. After smoking, make coarse cotton cloth 
 sacks so that one ham will go in easily, pack cut hay all 
 around between the sack and the ham, tie the sack at the 
 top, hang in a cool place, and be sure the sacks are whole. 
 
 To Make SMrts Glossy. Take of raw starch, one ounce ; 
 gum arabic, one drachm; white of egg, half ounce; soluble 
 glass, quarter of an ounce ; water. Make starch into fine 
 cream, dissolve with gum in a little hot water, cool and mix 
 it with the egg, and beat up the mixture with starch liquid; 
 then add the water, glass (solution), and shake together. 
 Moisten the starched linen with a cloth dipped in the liquid, 
 and use polishing iron to develop gloss. 
 
 Blackening Stoves. If a little vinegar or cider is mixed 
 with stove polish it will not take so much rubbing to make 
 the stove bright, and the blackening is not likely to fly off 
 in fine dust. 
 
 Mnsty Coffee and Tea Pots. These may be cleaned and 
 sweetened by putting wood ashes into them and filling 
 them with cold water. Set on the stove to heat gradually 
 till the water boils. Let it boil a short time, then put aside 
 to cool, when the inside should be faithfully washed and 
 scrubbed in hot soap-suds. 
 
 To Clean Pots and Kettles. When washing greasy pots and 
 kettles, take a handful of meal or bran and rub all around. 
 It absorbs all the grease and leaves them perfectly clean. 
 
 To Clean Ceilings Smoked by Kerosene Lamps. Wash with a 
 sufficiently strong solution of soda in water. 
 
 To Prepare a New Iron Kettle for Use. Fill with clean potato 
 parings; boil them for an hour or more, then wash the 
 kettle with hot water, wipe it dry, and rub it with a little 
 lard ; repeat the rubbing half a dozen times after using. 
 
 To Remove Fruit Stains. Procure a bottle of Javelle water. 
 If the stains are wet with this before the articles are put 
 
58 GENERAL HINTS. 
 
 into the wash they will be completely removed. Those who 
 cannot get Javelle water can make a solution of chloride of 
 lime. Four ounces of the chloride of lime is to be put into 
 a quart of water in a bottle, and after thoroughly shaking 
 allow the dregs to settle. The clear liquid will remove the 
 stains. Be careful to thoroughly rinse the article in clear 
 water before bringing it in contact with soap. When Javelle 
 water is used this precaution is not necessary; with chloride 
 of lime liquid it is, or the article will be harsh and stiff. 
 
 Washing. To wash flannels : First, never apply soap 
 directly to any woolen fabric. Make a strong, hot suds and 
 plunge the garment in it. Second, never dip a flannel in 
 cold, or even cool, water, but always hot. Wash first in hot 
 suds and rinse in hot water made very blue. Third, dry- 
 flannels as quickly as possible. Wring dry from the second 
 water and hang either in the hot sun or before a brisk fire. 
 When nearly dry, press with a hot iron. None but soft 
 water should be used upon flannels, and resin soap is much 
 inferior to common soft soap, as it hardens the fibres of 
 woolens. 
 
 To wash chintz : Take two pounds of rice and boil it in 
 two gallons of water till soft. When done, pour the whole 
 in a tub ; let it stand till of about the warmth you use in 
 general for colored linens ; then put the chintz in and use 
 the rice instead of soap. Wash it in this till the dirt appears 
 to be out ; then boil the same quantity, as above, but strain 
 the rice from the water and mix it in warm, clear water. 
 Wash in this till quite clean ; afterward rinse it in the water 
 in which you have boiled the rice. This will answer the 
 end of starch and no dew will affect it and it will be stiff as 
 long as you wear it. 
 
 To wash clothes without fading them : Peel Irish pota- 
 toes and grate them in cold water. Saturate the articles to 
 be washed in this potato-water and they can then be washed 
 
EVERV WOMAN HER OWiV COOK. 250 
 
 with soap without any running of the color. Oil may be 
 taken out of carpets with this potato-water when simple cold 
 water would make the color run ruinously. This will also 
 set the color in figured black muslins, in colored merinos, 
 in ribbons, and other silk goods. Often the potato-water 
 cleanses sufficiently without the use of soap ; but the latter 
 is necessary where there is any grease. When no soap is 
 needed, take the grated potato and rub the goods with a 
 flannel rag. 
 
 Sour milk removes iron-rust from white goods. 
 
 To make silk which has been wrinkled appear exactly like 
 new, sponge it on the surface with a weak solution of gum 
 arabic or white glue, and iron on the wrong side. 
 
 A tablespoonful of black pepper put in the first water in 
 which gray or buff linens are washed will keep them from 
 spotting. It will also keep the colors of colored or black 
 cambrics or muslin from running, and does not harden the 
 water. 
 
 To extract ink from cotton, silk, and woolen goods, satu- 
 rate the spot with spirits of turpentine and let it remain 
 several hours ; then rub it between the hands. It will dis- 
 appear without injuring the color or texture of the fabric. 
 For linen, dip the spotted part in pure tallow and the ink 
 will disappear. 
 
 When clothes have acquired an unpleasant odor by being 
 kept from the air, charcoal laid in the folds will remove it. 
 
 To take oil or grease from cloth : Drop on the spot 
 some oil of tartar or salt of wormwood which has been left 
 in a damp place until it is fluid ; then immediately wash the 
 place with lukewarm soft water and then with cold water, 
 wad the spot will disappear. 
 
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