THE LIBRARY

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PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND
MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID

TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

BOOKS OF TRAVEL AND ADVENTURE.

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The Crimean Campaign with the Connaught Rangers, 1854-5-6.

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CORNER OF ST PAUL'S CHURCHYARD, LONDON.
E. P. BUTTON & Co., NEW YORK.

TRAVEL, WAR,

AND

SHIPWRECK

,11

PARKER GILLMORE.

HOK OF "THE GREAT THIRST LAND," " PRAIRIE AND FOREST," "c;ux, ROD, AND SADDLE,
"AFLOAT AND ASHORE," ETC., ETC., ETC.

GRIFFITH & FARRAN,

CORNER OF ST PAUL'S CHURCHYARD, LONDON.
E. P. BUTTON & CO., NEW YORK.

The Rights of Translation and Reproduction are reserved.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

CAPTAIN CINNAMON AND LIEUTENANT SWAN, I

CHAPTER II.
BOYHOOD'S DAYS, . 16

CHAPTER III.

FIRST ADVENTURES, ... 2 5

CHAPTER IV.
SERGE'S STORY, . 3 1

CHAPTER V.

CONTINUATION OF SERGE'S STORY, . . 36

CHAPTER VI.

ST. JOE'S, . 40

CHAPTER VII.

I FIND EMPLOYMENT, . .46

CHAPTER VIII.

ACROSS THE PRAIRIE, . 5O

CHAPTER IX.

A BRUSH WITH THE RED SKINS, . 72

Vlll CONTENTS.

CHAPTER X.
A JEALOUS WIFE,

CHAPTER XI.

A TRAGEDY, . . .

CHAPTER XII.

A FIGHT WITH THE CAMANCHES,

CHAPTER XIII.

INDIANS IN CAMP,

CHAPTER XIV.

SANTA FE AT LAST ! .

CHAPTER XV.

PHILIP UPTON'S STORY,

CHAPTER XVI.

A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWICH, .

CHAPTER XVII.

HOME AGAIN ! ...

CHAPTER XVIII.
CONCLUSION, .

TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

CHAPTER I.

CAPTAIN CINNAMON AND LIEUTENANT SWAN.

IN the year 1850 there lived near the coast in the
county of Northumberland an elderly naval Lieutenant.
He was a fine specimen of his class at the time. He
could swear a little, drink a little, smoke a little, and
spin yarns innumerable. Although it was many years
since he had been afloat, his old habits still prevailed in
him, so that he talked of the first floor as " aloft," and
the cellars as the " hold," the windows were " ports," the
stair-case was the " gangway," and all people who did
not follow the sea were either " land lubbers" or " land
sharks ;" still he never spoke in bitterness against any
one, save, on rare occasions, when he had taken an extra
glass of toddy. The Lords of the Admiralty would
then possibly get just the least bit of his mind. This is
scarcely to be wondered at, for if medals and report
spoke true, this old son of Neptune had been a most
gallant officer, had performed very. daring feats in numer-
ous cutting-out expeditions on the coasts of Spain and
France, as well as among the West Indian Islands.

His most intimate friend was Captain Cinnamon,
of the Marines. As their respective residences were

TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

only about two miles apart they met almost daily ;
and there was a standing agreement that they should
pass two nights a week in each other's society. In
general appearance these two old cronies were very
much alike ; it is doubtful if there was a pound of dif-
ference between them in weight, and it would have
taken a fine judge of colour to decide between their
complexions which was the more florid. However
marvellous might be the yarn spun by either, it was
listened to by the other without doubt, if not without
interruption. They had a standing rule of having
always the same food on the same days : thus if the
days were long enough to extend their walk after din-
ner till they should meet, the salutation would invariably
be " Hullo, Cinnamon !" or " Hullo, Swan !" " How did
you enjoy your salt beef and greens ?" Then, and not
till then, politics would be touched upon, and if there
happened to be any naval news it was invariably
decided, after discussing it, that the service was going
emphatically to the devil.

Both the houses of the two gentlemen were exactly
alike. They had a wide verandah running the entire
length of the front, and from each verandah there was
an extensive view of the German ocean. The style of
architecture was such as is to be seen at the present day
on both shores of Chesapeake Bay, in fact all along the
southern sea-board of the United States. This is easily
accounted for by the circumstance of both having done
duty for some years on the Halifax and West India
station. In front of these dwellings was a carriage
drive, just sufficiently wide for a conveyance to turn

CAPTAIN CINNAMON AND LIEUTENANT SWAN. 3

upon, and beyond it a plot of grass about twenty-five
yards wide, in the centre of which was a flagstaff, at
whose truck a flag floated in all weathers from sunrise
till sunset. This piece of bunting was, as a rule, a Union
Jack in very disreputable condition, but on the anniver-
saries of victories won by our fleet, a grand one, magnifi-
cent in the brilliancy of its colours, was substituted ; on
two occasions in each year the brighter banner was
hung half-mast high; these were, the anniversaries of
the death of Nelson and of Collingwood.

It was a goodly sight of a summer evening to see
these two old warriors sitting on the verandah with a
table between them, on which was a decanter of old
Jamaica rum, two tumblers, two glasses, a large snuffbox,
and a tobacco jar, for our veterans were addicted to

tobacco in both forms. Long clay pipes, called " Alder-

mans," were those they always smoked, and as the curl-
ing smoke wreathed itself over their heads, there was an
expression in each of their weather-beaten faces which
said as plainly as words, " I am enjoying the ease I have
earned."

" Time for a fresh glass," says Lieutenant Swan.

" Time for a fresh glass," repeats Captain Cinnamon.
And both pour out exactly the same quantity of rum, and
add to it precisely an equal measure of water. These
worthies, in fact, drunk exactly the same quantity, each
sip being imbibed apparently at the same moment, for
they always seemed to exhaust and replenish their
glasses at the same time ; it would be hard, indeed, to
say if they did not pursue exactly the same course with
their tobacco and snuff.

TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

"Come, Swan," says Captain Cinnamon, "tell me
that story about the First Lord and the snuff, it's a
month at least since I heard it, and I want to have a
laugh."

"Yes, I believe it is a month. Heigh-ho! who
would have thought it? Well, here goes, provided
always you will give your exploits in the mud when
your fellows landed to take that battery."

This arrangement being assented to, Lieutenant
Swan, after settling himself in the most comfortable
position he could select, laid down his pipe, and, blow-
ing his nose, commenced.

"When I was third lieutenant on board the Are-
thusa, we were stationed on the Halifax and West
India station that is, as you know, we spent the
winter in the islands to escape the ice, and the
.summer in Halifax to escape yellow jack, at such
times as we were not cruising along the coast of the
United States, which was at least two months out of
three. Lord ! how it does blow along the whole of
that coast from Cape Hatteras to Cape Race, all the
year round, except in the summer months ! " Here
the Captain gave an assenting nod. " It was about
the end of October, and the weather was hazy but
calm. I had just come on deck after lunch, when an
orderly informed me that my presence was required by
the Captain. I was not a bit nervous in going down
the companion, for you see, Cinnamon, I hadn't been
up to any larks lately; and it's ever a guilty con-
science that makes us cowards." Here the Captain
gave another approving nod. " Well, our captain told

CAPTAIN CINNAMON AND LIEUTENANT SWAN. 5

me that, from information he had received, there was
no doubt that there was in these waters a small fore
and aft schooner-rigged privateer, which had lately
been playing the very mischief with our commerce
along the coast of New Brunswick, and as the weather
was thick and calm I had better take my boat, silently
run along the coast for twenty or more miles, and, if
she was not too formidable, use my utmost efforts for
her destruction or capture. ' If firing should be re-
ported/ he added, * I will send you assistance. Under
any circumstance, unless it should come on a gale of
wind, you will find us here at noon the day after to-
morrow. Mr Swan, I would not give you this im-
portant duty if I had not great confidence in your dis-
cretion and courage.' These are the very words he
said the very words." Here came two approving nods
from Cinnamon. " Now, off my lad, and the quicker
the better ; but not a word to any one of what your
business is."

" A few minutes after my boat was piped away, and
ten minutes from the time my interview with the Cap-
tain terminated, the frigate was out of sight in the haze.

" An hour and a half's pull brought us within sight of
the shore, when, as I turned our boat's head to the
westward, I cautioned the crew to keep their ears open,
and not to speak a word above a whisper. There was
little need of this, for there was not a man among them
who didn't know that we were likely to have work on
hand soon. Those were the days to be at sea, and no
mistake ; those were the times when an officer had to
command sailors, and not a lot of land-lubbers ; the

TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

service had not gone to the devil then." The worthy
narrator was becoming more and more excited, while
his companion nodded and nodded again with more
and more emphasis. "We hugged the coast all that
night, and still the weather was mild, with scarcely a
cat's-paw upon the water. Just before break of day
we pulled into a cove for the double purpose of letting
the crew have an opportunity of cooking breakfast,
and of enabling me to survey the coast from the
nearest high ground. Beyond a point six miles off I
made out with my glass the spars of a craft exactly
such as we were after ; and, judging from their appear-
ance, I concluded she must be about one hundred and
fifty tons burden. From her peak hung the Yankee
flag, so whether she was the right schooner or not, she
could not be a wrong one, for we were at war then with
the United States. I said nothing to the men about
what I had discovered, but told them that, as there
might be work to do after sunset, they had better rest
awhile, but on no account to leave the boat. I then
returned to my point of observation, but as the haze
had thickened, I was unable to see more of her. As
this schooner was a larger one than I had anticipated,
I resolved to wait till dark, and take her by surprise.
Nothing like surprise and night work to equalise num-
bers nothing like it." And the Captain nodded his
approval.

" As soon as the light suited, we again got afloat, and
made the best of our way across the intervening bay.
When only a mile more had to be pulled, I ordered the
crew to lie on their oars and look to their arms. Every

CAPTAIN CINNAMON AND LIEUTENANT SWAN. 7

man-jack of them knew what this meant, and if one
could have seen their faces, he would have noted the
true pluck, the devil-may-care expression, that told
there was not one among them that would not have
gone to Davy Jones' locker sooner than show the
white feather. There never were, and never will be,
such sailors as our fleet was manned with in those
days." Here came in sundry nods from the listener.
" Or officers either," said the Captain.
" Or officers either," echoed the Lieutenant.
" We've had but two glasses," observed Cinnamon.
" But one," said the Lieutenant.
" Then make it one," rejoined the Marine.
So they replenished their glasses and pipes, and took
an interval ; after which, the stereotyped question was
asked, "Where did I leave off?"

"Where the boat's crew looked to their arms, pre-
pared for action."

"So I did; good!" I who, as the reader will find,
was privileged by my position to be often a silent par-
taker in these interviews always regarded this question
as a test of the attention the auditor had been paying
to the story.

" * Now, my hearties, at it again! not a word for your
lives ; in ten minutes more you may sing God save the
King till you are black in the throat."

"At this time I noticed that the breeze was springing
up. It was light still ; but I did not like it, for it was
northerly, making this a lea shore. But there was no
time to think. Fifty yards ahead loomed the schooner;
closer to her we drew ; twenty-five yards only severed

8 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

us, when the watch hailed, ' Give way, my lads, and the
devil take the last on her decks!' It was a beautiful
sight to see how the lads went at her beautiful no
such sights to be seen now-a-days ; never, no more !"

" Never, no more," and both nodded their heads
together in mournful reflection.

" In a moment we were fast alongside ; in another,
half the boat's crew were on the schooner's deck, fight-
ing a way for the rest to follow ; and how the Yankees
fought, though half of them were just as they had turned
out of their bunks, but we hammered at them, two blows
for one. No asking for quarter : no giving it. It was
the nicest little thing in the shape of a fight ever an eye
looked on. There never was a fairer, never a prettier;
for, you see, we were just about man to man, and
well bless, those Yankees, they can fight, they
can!" And the old Captain emphatically approved
with his head this assertion.
" I'm thirsty, comrade !"
" So am I."

"It's only two tumblers we have had?" enquiringly
asked the Lieutenant.
"Only two."

"As I was saying, they fought like the very mis-
chief, and we were doing little better than holding
our own, when I got a clip on the head that nearly
brought me down, here's the scar still, but in an

instant I had turned round on the fellow that did it,

for, you see, I was engaged hammer and tongs with
another of them and, by Jove! it was a nigger, as
black as ebony. I made a couple of cuts at him, but

CAPTAIN CINNAMON AND LIEUTENANT SWAN. 9

he could handle a cutlass as well as I could, and the
Lord knows how it would have ended, but that the
Coxswain gave him a back-hander that tumbled him
into the scuppers. Over ten minutes the fight lasted,
before we drove the sons of sea cooks below the hatches,
and we should not have done it then, but for our having
taken them by surprise. We had two, and they had four,
killed, with a heavy bill of wounded on both sides.

" Over an hour had passed in providing for the com-
forts both of friends and foes. When I came on deck,
I found that it had commenced to blow hard, with every
indication of a heavy northerly gale, so there was no-
thing for it but to trip anchor and make sail.

"All that night we beat to and fro ; and a worse sea I
have seldom seen. At daybreak the gale freshened to
such an extent that yard after yard of canvass had to
be taken in, so we found there was nothing for it but to
turn tail and run for shelter.

" On my chart was marked a river with ten feet of
water on the bar. As far as I could judge, it lay about
due south. After an hour's scudding, we made it,
when I cracked on plenty of sail and steered straight
at it. A succession of heavy bumps, a crash of timber
as the masts go by the board, and, thank God, we are
again in smooth water. Comrade, it was a near pinch ;
if we had drawn one foot more water, every man -jack
of us would have been food for the fishes, every man-
jack of us." Here the two old gentlemen affectionately
squeezed each other's hands across the table, then pro-
ceeded leisurely to replenish their glasses without asking
questions as to the number they had previously imbibed.

10 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

" Comrade, we have had some near shaves in our
lives."

" Yes, Swan, we have."

" Men don't now-a-days have to go through the like."

"No; they don't."

"An hour after we had entered the river, winter com-
menced in earnest. A heavy fall of snow was added to
the terrific gale that was raging, and the temperature
fell many degrees below freezing point. If we had been
an hour later, we could not have found out our present
harbour.

" The wounded suffered much, for we had no one
among us who had the slightest knowledge of surgery ;
but, be it said to the credit of both friends and foes, all
submitted to their misfortunes without murmur.

"For a week the terrific weather continued, but at
length gave way to the most charming of all winters,
that of Canada. After the storm had passed off, the
Indians of the neighbourhood, Micmacks by tribe, found
us out and supplied us with fresh meat. One of them
could speak English a little, for he had been many
times in Halifax, so I made an arrangement with him
to take a despatch to the governor describing our posi-
tion and the circumstances that had led to it, at the
same time begging him to use all efforts for our imme-
diate release. It was while waiting for an answer to
this message that I discovered that wonderful snuff,
wonderful though I say it," here both the old gentlemen
laughed together as if their sides would split.

" Come, fill your glass, Captain ; this will only be the
third."

CAPTAIN CINNAMON AND LIEUTENANT SWAN. I I

" Fourth," says the marine.

" We'll make it three," and without dissent they made
it three.

" This snuff, you see, I first found out by seeing the
Indians use it. I tried it, and for pungency never met
its equal."

" Yes, that's the truth ; the first time you gave it to
me I nearly sneezed my head off. In fact, I thought I
never should have stopped sneezing."

" By Jove, I shall never forget it."

" Nor shall I." And both laughed at their recollections
of the story.

"After some enquiry I found it was made from a
root which abounds everywhere in the woods of Nova
Scotia, and which, when ground to powder by a peculiar
process, makes the snuff, whose wonderful pungency
you have experienced."

"And so have the Duke and the First Lord," an-
swered the Captain ; at which they both laughed
again.

" I thought at the time, I had made a most
valuable discovery, and I should think so still, if people
could only be induced to give up their prejudices and
take to my snuff, instead of snuffing tobacco."

" Well, comrade, why don't you set the example ? "

" For the reason I mentioned, prejudice. I am no
less subject to that weakness than my fellowmen."

" Evidently," and both took a pinch out of the mull
that was on the table, and laughed over the idea of gull-
ing the public.

" After I had been placed on the shelf some years,

I 2 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

having only half-pay, barely sufficient to keep soul and
body together "

" Barely enough, indeed."

"It struck me that I might add to my income by
introducing my Nova Scotia snuff; so I sent to a friend
in Canada to forward me one or two hundred pounds'
weight of the root. With due care I had them pre-
pared according to the process I had learned, and then
endeavoured to get some snuff dealers to bring the
article before the public. All had but one answer
' Get one of the Royal Family, some leading nobleman
of fashion, or some other distinguished person, to patro-
nise it, and your fortune is made.' Now, as I could
obtain neither of the former two, I at last thought, after
I had pondered the subject over, of the First Lord of
the Admiralty, who, as I knew by reputation, was an
inveterate snuffer. But how was I to approach him on
such a subject ? for I hated to go near Whitehall even
when in commission. At length it struck me that my
dear old patron, formerly the Captain of the Arethusa,
who had for many years been an Admiral, would be
the very person to give me a good introduction, as he
must be a favourite with the authorities, being then in
command of the Channel squadron.

" My request was at once complied with, and many
were the kind expressions contained in the Admiral's
letter of the appreciation he held me in as an officer.
This document was duly forwarded to the Admiralty,
together with a letter stating the purport of my visit,
and containing a request to know when I might be

CAPTAIN CINNAMON AND LIEUTENANT SWAN. I 3

honoured with an interview. In due time was received
an answer, and an early date named.

" Punctually to the appointed moment I arrived, but
I was kept waiting quite two hours in the ante-room.
This I did not mind, for the time passed pleasantly
enough in the contemplation of my future fortune.

" At length the usher showed me into the august pre-
sence ; he was a little man, very stout, with a short
neck, a pimply face, and a very red complexion.
While I was producing my snuff-box, another gentle-
man entered the room from an opposite door ; he was
very tall and thin, and had an exceedingly bald head
and an aquiline nose. As soon as he made his ap-
pearance, the First Lord called out, ' Ah ! your Grace,
just in time ; you are actually, I may say, in luck.
Lieutenant Swan (making a gradual motion of the
head towards me) has brought with him from abroad a
new snuff, the most delicious and refreshing that has
ever been introduced into the country.' To get a First
Lord was something, but with a Duke for a patron, my
fortune was assuredly made."

" Look here," said the Captain, " just halt a bit ; I
have two reasons for asking you to do so. In the first
place, I want to have a quiet laugh in anticipation ;
secondly, Don't you Jhink it advisable we should fill our
glasses ? "

" Certainly I do ; for if we fill them now they will be
ready for use when I have finished my yarn."

That important operation having been performed,
and the worthy Captain having resumed his gravity,
Lieutenant Swan continued his narrative

14 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

" I carefully opened the box which had previously
been highly perfumed. The First Lord took it, smelt,
and handed it to his Grace, who did likewise. ' A very
pleasant flavour,' said the one. ' Extremely/ said the
other. Then each took a pinch. For a few seconds
both appeared highly pleased with the result ; but soon
one, then the other, commenced to sneeze, gently at
first, but as time lapsed more and more rapidly and
violently, till both continued giving vent to one inces-
sant series of sneezes. The First Lord buried his face
in the sofa ; his Grace threw himself back in an arm-
chair. From one I flew to the other. The former was
black in the face, the latter covered with perspiration,
and still they kept up the most incessant sneezing.
What to do I knew not. There was no water in the
room ; I was about to ring the bell for some, when in
trooped a dozen of servants. I heard the First Lord
say, with a sneeze between each word, ' Secure the
scoundrel.' Such a hint was not to be neglected. I
seized my hat, darted from the room, rushed down the
stairs, taking three at a time, and never looked back
till I was across Westminster Bridge. Indeed, I did
not feel safe then, and for weeks after I expected daily
to hear that I had been deprived of my half-pay.

" Since that day I have never been inside the Admi-
ralty, and if I live a hundred years I never intend to
be, although my snuff-box, a very handsome one, which
had been the property of my grandfather, is there, for
aught I know, to this day.

" My kind friend the Admiral wrote to me in terms
such as implied that I had betrayed his confidence. I

CAPTAIN CINNAMON AND LIEUTENANT SWAN. 1 5

was much grieved at this, and sent him an apology,
which he was good enough to accept.

"I could not understand how my admirable snuff,
which I still esteem so valuable a discovery, became so
pungent. To put it to the test, I wished to discover if
it had the same effect on others ; so I gave the land-
lord of the ' Ship and Anchor ' a pinch. He was a
very tall and stout man, and I can assure you that his
sneezes were so terrific that they shook the ornaments
off the mantelpiece, and they were so protracted that
his wife rushed into the room to learn the cause. When
she had done so, she attacked me with a broom ; the
boots and waiter came to her support. I was again
obliged to fly, and my wounded pride has compelled
me ever since to give up a favourite haunt.

" To this moment I am confident it is prejudice that
has done it all, and nothing more. It does not make
me sneeze so."

" No, Swan, it does not, for your nose, I suspect, is
copper-lined ; but, Lord bless your soul, I should like
to have seen you between the First and Second Lords,
and afterwards coming down the staircase."

And the Captain of Marines and the Lieutenant of
the Navy laughed, and laughed again, till it was pro-
nounced time to fill up their glasses.

CHAPTER II.
BOYHOOD'S DAYS.

WHEN the reader of the preceding chapter is informed
that the narrator is the only son of Lieutenant Swan, he
will not be surprised to learn that I had been completely
spoiled by my father and his bosom friend the Captain,
and that I got generally my own way in everything. It
is true that I had been for some time a pupil of the
grammar school, but my attendance was almost nominal,
for if it was spring or summer, and the day was suitable
for fishing, by the river side I was certain to be found ;
if winter, and there was shooting or ice, I would be in
the company of the neighbouring Baronet's game-
keepers, or doing the intricacies of inside and outside
turns upon my skates. At length my want of attention
to my classes became so glaring that the dominie, good
man, thought he ought to remonstrate with my father
on the subject, especially as it was setting such a per-
nicious example to the other scholars. With this inten-
tion, he interviewed the old gentleman, and stated his
reasons for doing so. However, Mr Swan could not see
matters in the same light, and informed the worthy
schoolmaster that my mother, who died a long time
ago, had been consumptive, and that he was afraid
I had the germs of the same disease.

"Consumption!" exclaimed the schoolmaster indig

BOYHOOD'S DAYS. 1 7

nantly. " Consumption, do you say, fiddle-sticks ! more
likely he is suffering from over-consumption of victuals."
Now, this was about as unfortunate an answer as
could have been made to my father, for he saw in it not
only an attempt to dictate how I should be brought up,
but a slighting insinuation levelled at the sufficiency of
his knowledge of the world. So, ringing the bell, he
ordered the servant to open the door for Mr Rudiman,
and informed the zealous advocate of education that his
school should no longer be troubled with my presence.

Shortly after this a council was held between Captain
Cinnamon and my father as to what steps should be
taken for the furtherance of my education.
" A boarding-school," suggested the former.
" No ;" answered the latter. " No ; that would never
do."

"Why?" interrogates the Captain.
" For this reason ; you see he is a high-spirited lad,
so half the time he would be engaged in licking his
companions, or getting licked by them ; to the former I
would not object to the latter I do most decidedly."

"No; it would never do for our Jack to get licked
never do. I have it. Sergeant Trenchman, late of the
Royal Engineers, that fine specimen of an old soldier,
who has lately come to reside in the village, would make
the youngster a capital tutor; the non-commissioned
officers of his corps are a very intelligent, well-educated
body of men."

" Yes; but he's a soldier. Now, if he had been a blue
jacket, I would say done with you."

" Or a marine," quietly insinuated the Captain.

1 8 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

However, it resulted in Sergeant Trenchman being
engaged.

My new tutor was a fairly well-educated man, but did
not understand how to impart his knowledge to others.
He had travelled all over the world, and had wonderful
stories to tell about each part of it. He was also a pro-
ficient in single-stick ; thus my time was either passed in
fencing or listening to his exploits abroad. My father
and his boon companion used frequently to visit the
school-room shortly before dinner. That was the hour
devoted to the study of thrusts and cuts. As soon as
the door opened, and the weather-beaten visages of
the old gentlemen were seen, Sergeant Trenchman
would shout with the voice of a bull, " ten-shun," spring-
ing himself into that position, and insisting that I should
do likewise.

" That's right, Sergeant; that's right, Sergeant," both
veterans would exclaim together. Then my father
would continue, "Any complaints, Sergeant?" to which
he always received the stereotyped answer, " No, sir."

And as the two old worthies left the room, they might
be heard saying sotto voce, " that's the way to bring up
a lad nothing like discipline, nothing."

This state of things went on for more than a year,
when the good Sergeant took to dissipated courses, and
was reduced to the ranks, that is, dismissed.

"By Jupiter!" exclaimed the Captain of Marines, "he
should have been tried for habitual drunkenness; the
scoundrel has been six times drunk in a week a fair
enough allowance for a year."

" That comes of having engaged a soldier. I foresaw

BOYHOOD'S DAYS. 19

it. There is no confidence to be put in those land-
lubbers."

" Not a particle not a particle. I believe both ser-
vices are going to the devil."

" You may take your oath on it," angrily exclaimed
my father.

After Sergeant Trenchman's disgrace, for many
months I ran wild, scarcely knowing what to do with
myself, when arrangements were entered into with the
Curate for so many hours tuition daily. He was a quiet,
retiring, studious gentleman, who never lost his temper,
or raised his voice. When I was inattentive, indolent,
or lacking in punctuality, he used to appeal to my better
feelings, and the fault he complained of was at once
amended.

I cannot say I know very much, but the little I do
know is entirely due to the patience and kindness of
this excellent clergyman during the three years I was
under his care.

Thus it may be understood that when I reached the
age of eighteen I understood more of fencing, swim-
ming, rowing, fishing, shooting, and hunting, than of
Euclid, modern languages, and the Classics. Moreover,
I possessed health, strength, and endurance in no ordi-
nary degree.

My father could not afford to purchase me a commis-
sion, or even to make me an adequate allowance if I
could have procured one, so the army the profession I
should have preferred to all others had to be given up.
For the navy, I was too old ; and as to the mercantile
marine, the old gentleman set his foot down upon my

20 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

choice of it at once. " What! sail in a craft that doesn't
fly a pennant, whose quarter-deck receives no more
respect than the cook's galley never, never ! "

About this time, an occurrence took place that had a
great effect upon my future steps. It was autumn, and
the fishermen were obtaining heavy catches of herring.
Several times I had gone out in one or other of the fish-
ing fleet, for there is a wondrous fascination on a fine
night to see or assist in taking on board the nets filled
with their captures. As the herring are thrown into the
hold, for a few seconds the mass look like a dancing
pool of liquid silver; then all is still, the brilliancy
remaining, but the surface as unbroken as that of a
woodland lake in the calm of a summer evening.

Then to listen to the sounds that speed over the
waters ; the snatch of a song, or the emphatic word of
command, sometimes coming from a distant and un-
known vessel, more frequently from one of your own
companion crafts, detracts not from the enchantment.
In our dreams we sometimes visit a mysterious and
unknown world. To be afloat on the German Ocean in
calm weather, when the fishing fleet are successful, is to
have such dreams transferred from phantoms to realities.

As the majority of the fishermen knew me, and as
they much respected my father, I had little difficulty in
obtaining a passage. Within the few previous days the
herring had moved further north, thus bringing the
prospect of an absence of several days. The weather
was beautifully fine when we got under way, with
scarcely sufficient wind to enable us to steer. At length,
we got to our fishing ground, and the nets were planted.

BOYHOOD S DAYS. 2 I

Soon after it commenced to blow fresh, yet we hung on
to our moorings. At daybreak it was blowing a gale,
compelling us to cut adrift and run for it. On the third
day we found ourselves on the coast of Denmark, just
as the gale had blown itself out. Before we could return,
fresh supplies required to be laid in, thus I had an oppor-
tunity of seeing something of a foreign country. The
result was that I must see more. I had tasted the cup
of adventure, and wished to drink deeper of it.

When I returned home, I communicated my inten-
tions to my father. His countenance expressed his
disappointment, but he said nothing. Nevertheless, I
thought that he bid me a more affectionate farewell
that night when I retired to bed than usual.

The next day Captain Cinnamon passed the evening
with him. I had been shooting all day, and when I
approached the house I found, as the weather was fine,
that the old companions were enjoying themselves as
usual.

" Go and change your clothes, my son, and get some-
thing to eat ; and if you have nothing better to do, come
and join us afterwards."

I did as I was desired. None of the stereotyped
stories were being told, but the tobacco was being inhaled
in regular and measured puffs, and but for the action of
blowing it forth, both might have been taken for statues.

After a protracted silence the old Captain spoke.
" So you want to leave us my boy, is that the case ? "
My father said nothing, but looked straight before him.

" No ; certainly not. But I am of an age at which
others go out into the world. I wish to see it and pos-

22 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

sibly learn how I can do something for my own support.
My life up to this has been one unbroken holiday.
I feel that it is time for this to cease, for it cannot so go
on for ever. In fact, I wish to learn to lean upon my-
self, not upon others."

" I said it, Swan. I said it," excitedly exclaimed the
Captain. " The boy is right. It's what you did ; it's
what I did, and by I was going to swear it's what
he is going to do. By heavens ! if the service had men
like him in it, it would not now be going to the devil."

" I believe you are right, comrade," said my father ;
then turning to me, he said "Jack, I don't mean to
preach to you, for I don't think you require it; still
listen for a moment. Wherever you are, remember you
are a gentleman. Never do in secret what you would
be ashamed should see the light of day, and let your
motto be the Queen, the Church, and the Game Laws."

"My sentiments exactly," chimed in the Captain,
" although I could not have expressed them quite as well."

The evening was now late. The house-keeper came,
as was her wont, to tie under Captain Cinnamon's chin
the string that held down the ear-pieces of his fur cap.
He then wound round his neck half a dozen turns of a
gigantic blue handkerchief, and as he walked off home-
wards, under care of a man-of-all-work, I heard him
muttering, in spite of the barricading that covered his
mouth, " The Queen, the Church, and the Game Laws."

Due preparation had been made for my intended
journey, and the night previous to my departure had
arrived. My father and his friend had made up their
minds to see me to Carlisle, whence I was to catch the

BOYHOOD'S DAYS. 23

train for Glasgow, the port from which I intended em-
barking for the United States.

The old companions were together as of yore, but the
night being chilly, they occupied the dining room.

Conversation had flowed in the usual channel, till
about eight o'clock, when my father took his pipe from
his mouth, drew down his spectacles from his forehead
to his nose, and turned round so as directly to face me.

" Jack, my son, as you leave us in the morning let us
have a little business talk. It will be short, for I hate
business."

" So do I," said the Captain, emphatically.

" Here, in this bag, are fifty sovereigns. It's all I had
at my bankers. Not much, truly ; but in two weeks I
draw a quarter's half-pay, when I will send you a letter
of credit for as much more as I can spare. If it should
not be enough well, Kitty, the red-cow, will have
calved ; she's worth twenty pounds at least, and can
well be spared, so through her I shall make up the
deficiency. And remember, while I have a roof over
my head that it is yours. That's all, my lad."

" You are done, Swan," said the dear old Captain.
" You have had your turn, and it would not be like a
blue-jacket to keep the marines out of action, or refuse
them a chance to win their share of glory. Here are
fifty sovereigns. Your father and I always keep fifty at
the bank (little did I know then that it was to provide
a respectable funeral), and you will also find a bill now
due for fifteen pounds, drawn by a most respectable
livery stable keeper in Carlisle, for some oats I sold him
in the summer, and when your father sends you the

24 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

letter of credit, I must have a word to say in it. You
shan't run short of money, by I nearly swore there.
Sooner than he should do that, Swan, you and I will go
without grog and tobacco. And remember while I have
a room over my head that it is yours. That's all, my boy."

My father stretched his hand across the table, and
took that of his comrade. " Thanks, thanks, my dear
old friend ; thanks again," he said.

" No need of that," answered the other ; " no need of
that. Isn't Jack as much mine as yours ? "

" I don't know that," quietly smiled my father.

" But he is," emphatically exclaimed the Captain.

" Make it so," said my father.

" Aye ! aye, sir ! " responded the dear old Captain,
and a diamond tear stood in the eye of each of the
veterans, fit homage to affection, for it could not have
been wrung from either by any enemy on earth.

CHAPTER III.

FIRST ADVENTURES.

PARTING scenes are at the best but painful affairs.
Mine was eminently so. I would have liked to cry,
but was determined not to give way, although several
times I was on the verge of doing so. Just before the
road makes a turn that shuts my home out of view, I
took a final look. The old gentlemen were together
watching the rapidly retreating conveyance. I waved
my handkerchief, both of theirs responded, and the
world was before me, but not as it is to some ; for if
disaster or misfortune overtook me, had I not a safe
haven to run to for shelter ?

Christmas found me in New York. By March I had
reached St Louis. To get so far westward I had tra-
velled by rail, ridden in stages, and sometimes even
walked. To the West was my motto ; for, even so long
ago as the time I write of, the labour market was over-
stocked in the Atlantic States, unless for such as could
wield the pick-axe and shovel.

Those that knew the capital of the State of Missouri
in the days I speak of, know how different it was then
from what it is now. What the child is to the man, is
the best simile I can think of.

I stopped at " The Planters," then the principal hotel,
and now associated with the memory of one of the most
charming of writers and the most adventurous of tra-

26 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

vellers, Lieutenant Ruxton. He had just returned
from the Indian country, and the newspapers teemed
with his adventures, wonderful escapes, and extraordi-
nary feats of endurance. These I resolved, if possible,
to rival.

One evening I lounged into a half bar, half reading-
room to peruse the evening papers. There was nothing
unusual in this arrangement, for the room devoted to
the one purpose was usually devoted to the other, espe-
cially in Western cities. I paid my piccaune, received
my paper, and sat down to read. I had not been long
thus engaged when my ear was attracted by a very
musical foreign voice. Looking up, I observed that it
came from a very gentlemanly-looking young man
about two or three and twenty, and, if I mistook not, a
German. After procuring his paper he took his seat
on the bench beside me, apologising in the most
courteous manner for the inconvenience. Again and
again I looked at him unperceived, and the more I did
so the more was I charmed with his faultless air. I
should have liked to introduce myself to him, but hesi-
tated to do so, consoling myself with the hope that
something or other might occur to enable me to make
his acquaintance. Little as I had seen of America, I
could not help perceiving that his manners were not
those of the country, and that he had probably not
been there much longer than myself.

I had just laid aside my paper, and was thinking of
returning to the hotel, when a noisy crowd of the class
usually denominated .roughs entered the reading-room
and advanced to the bar. From their conversation I

FIRST ADVENTURES. 27

imagined that they might have been at a trotting
match, and that there was a difference of opinion
among them as to the time made by some favourite
horse. For a quarter of an hour they continued
wrangling, and calling for fresh drinks every few
minutes, when one of them, the tallest and burliest of
the party, exclaimed angrily, " I tell you it's so, and no
other. Barman, give me the evening paper." " Not
got it. Well, I guess I'll find one somewhere abouts."
And off he started round the room in search of one.
Perceiving that the stranger had one in his hand, he did
not take the trouble to look farther, but deliberately
walked up to him, and pulled it unceremoniously
away, saying, "What does an infernal Dutchman
like you want with a paper?" In an instant the
stranger was on his feet, and, rushing at the bully,
endeavoured to seize him by the throat ; but his efforts
were for some time futile. At length, however, they
closed, and the blackguard being the taller and heavier
of the two, threw his antagonist.

With this one would have supposed he should have
been satisfied ; but no ; he continued to strike his
antagonist in the face, uttering with every blow such
exclamations as " I'll give you a beauty spot. There's
another for you. I'll teach you manners," &c. Nor
was he satisfied with this, but deliberately proceeded to
shove his finger in the eye of his almost insensible
antagonist foreigner. I could not longer endure the
sight of such barbarism ; and as I considered a creature
who could act as this wretch was doing, a brute and
not a man, I gave him a kick on the head close to the

28 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

ear with my heavily-nailed shooting-boot. I had the
satisfaction of seeing him go over like a lump of lead ;
but short-lived was my pleasure his comrades were
upon me in a moment I succeeded in planting two
blows home then I remember a violent struggle and
the remainder is a blank.

It was several days after this escapade, when I again
became conscious. A sister of the Sacred Heart sat by
my bed quietly knitting, while close at hand was an
adjoining bedstead, occupied by whom I could not see.
I felt sore and bruised, so I turned to ease my position ;
when my nurse, who was an elderly person, looked at
me with a quiet, placid smile, and gently said, "You
are better now." I asked, scarcely knowing what I
said, Have I been ill ? "

" No, no ; but you and your companion met with an
accident. He is in the next bed to yours, but he is
asleep."

" I have no companion, lady."

" Oh, yes, you have ; he is so anxious about you, but
you must not talk." And as she held a cup of some
refreshing drink to my lips, she continued, " You must
try to go to sleep now ; you will be much better to-
morrow, when I will let you talk just a little."

" But answer me, lady, one question, Where am I ? "

" In the hospital, and I am your nurse."

With such a nurse and watcher I feared not to sleep ;
so I gave way to my drowsy feelings doubtless the
result of weakness and must soon have been again in
the land of unconsciousness.

I suppose it must have been the next day when

FIRST ADVENTURES. 2 9

I awoke again, for the sun was shining brightly, and
the shadows appeared not to have lengthened. The
same guardian sat by my bed, engaged exactly as she
had been when I had first seen her. With a pleased
expression, as soon as she observed that I was awake,
she said, " Good morning, I hope you feel better."

" I don't feel very ill."

" But you have been, and must remain very quiet for
some days." And thus far she had got in her advice,
when a voice from the adjoining cot, with a very foreign
accent, said, " My friend, I am so glad to hear you
speak, 'Ah! mein Gott, I thought they had you killed.'"

I turned to look at the speaker, it was the stranger
whose rescue I had attempted.

Here our good nurse interrupted us by saying, " I will
not have any talking till you are both better ; and I am
certain you will not disobey a lady's wishes."

Next day the doctor paid his visit, and complimented
our nurse on the progress her patients had made.

In a few days after we were pronounced convalescent,
and so permitted to return to our hotel. There we learned
the particulars of the whole affair. Both of us were
beaten almost to mummies ; fortunately the barman
knew where we were staying, so he sent for the hotel
proprietor, who, like a sensible person, had us removed
to the hospital, where we were treated with every care
and consideration.

But let me say a word in favour of those devoted good
women who compose the orders of Sisters of Charity,
such kindness and attention as I have observed and
experienced under their care I have never witnessed

3<D TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

elsewhere. How many sinners' eyes have they closed
for the last time, how many deaths have they made
calm and quiet, how many of those that would have
died if neglected have they nursed into convalescence !
Every mother that has sons who are compelled to
wander should bless them, and pray that they may ever
continue to labour in their good work.

Thus commenced my friendship with Serge Soldateu-
koff, with whom I now resolved to join partnership.
We purposed to proceed to St Joe's, and, if possible, go
into the Indian country together. Who he was, and
where he came from, I will state in the following
chapter as nearly as possible in the words in which he
narrated his early history to me.

CHAPTER IV.
SERGE'S STORY.

To Russia I owe my birth, Russia, the country in which
one dare not speak, dare not act, dare not even think.
There spies are on every side, they wait at your table,
they visit you under the guise of friends, it may be even
under that of lovers.

If the whisper of suspicion breathes against you, or if
you have an enemy who wishes to be revenged upon
you, or if possibly there exists a person who would
benefit by your removal, it is sufficient. Be the accusing
voice true or calumnious, just or unjust, you are lost.

Sudden and unexplained arrest, incarceration in the
vilest of prisons, then banishment or exile in Siberia, is
the routine.

The accused blanch when " Siberia" falls from the lips
of their judge, for its horrors are only too well known.

It was a beautiful day in early summer, numerous
relatives and friends surrounded me, my kind good
mother stood by my side when I was seized and carried
off by a party of officials, and why ? because I, in love
of right and freedom, had expressed myself strongly in
opposition to the Government when my tongue was
loosened with generous wine. Next day my broken-
hearted mother heard the result. I was to be banished,
not to Siberia, oh thank the good God for that, but

32 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

banished from the empire, from the home of my fathers,
the scenes of my childhood, till the house of Rumanoff,
chose to think I had expiated my offence.

Well, I came back to bid them farewell, possibly for
ever. The horses stood at the door to bear me away,
for know, friend, when once the sentence of banishment
is given it must instantly be complied with. No excuse
will then be accepted for delay. Your nearest relative
may be dying, your nearest friend dead, if you have not
started to fulfil your sentence with the least possible
delay, again you will be brought before the powers that
be, and your sentence altered to one much more severe.
The steady Russian horses wait impatiently without the
gates ; one last lingering kiss, a few broken words in the
sweet Russ tongue, " Prascite ! " and I am off.

The tears have hardly been kissed from my hands
when they are again wet with those of our faithful ser-
vants. They cling to my long cloak and kiss the insen-
sible fur as if it were a saint's robe.

Farewell !......

We are galloping furiously over the moon-lit snow,
and the swift coursing sledge flies like a dark-winged
bird on its way. The driver has a light heart, for has
he not the distinguished honour of having been chosen
as his master's fellow and companion in exile from all
the number of serfs. He drives as happily as though he
were come into a fortune, and had married his little
sweetheart ! He has left her behind, willingly, to go
with his lord. And yet he is free, and could have stayed.

A grateful heart is a rare and curious phenomenon.
The moon is hidden now, and nothing but the dull sky

SERGE'S STORY. 33

and the reflecting snow lights the path. As far as the
eye can reach grey white snow to left, to right, and
behind. Strain your eye in the direction of the speed-
ing sledge, and in the dim distance you can descry a
dark horizon. It is a pine forest ; nearer and nearer we
approach it. There are three miles of it to be traversed ;
then fresh horses will be ready at a roadside posting-
house to carry me, an exile, further away from all that
I cherish most on earth.

I had dropped into a short slumber, in which dreams,,
jumbled up together in the wildest confusion, floated
through my brain. I am at home again and a little
child ; it is Easter, and I am playing with my child
companion, who is the son of one of the forest-keepers.
He is called Vladimir. His mother brings us presents,,
and tells us the story of Christ, in soft modulated tones
tells us it in such realistic language that both our
faces seem to glow with light, as though "the God-man'*"
had stood beside us even now, in His shining garments.

Then the scene changes ; and I am before the
questioners, and I read no clemency in the eye of the
judge. There grows a heavy faintness upon my heart..
What if the sentence be " Siberia ! "

I awoke, and how dark everything seems ! darker
even than before, for now it is the Pine Forest which
the sledge is flying through. It is so black and solid
that the darkness seems impenetrable. A dull dream-
less sleep comes over my senses. We are half through
the wood now. The driver has turned his face back,
and is peering out upon the rapidly passing distance, for
he apprehends danger here.

34 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

What a splendid fellow he is tall and muscular, with
a great brown beard. His face is oval, and lit by a
pair of warm grey eyes. As they fall upon the recumbent
figure of his master, and as he knows him to be his
friend also, a beautiful smile drives away the anxiety
that rested upon them before, and he turns again to
cheer his horses on.

What is that prolonged moan, like the rushing of
wind through many trees, for this night there is no
wind ?

It strikes the ear again more loudly than before, and
it swells into a chorus that causes the horses to lay back
their ears and plunge madly forward. Vladimir, the
serf, turns, and in a deep mellow voice calls " Master,
wake ! "

I rouse myself, and ere I can answer it is unnecessary
to ask why I am called. The howl rises and falls upon
the air in a manner too ominous to leave a doubt in the
hearts of either of us that we are pursued by Wolves !

" How long before we are safe ? " I ask.

" Two miles more," is the response, and the driver's
thong curls round the flanks of the panting horses.

" Haste then, in God's name, for they are actually in
pursuit."

No need to urge the eager horses now. Terror spurs
them, and they fly ! Yet the wolves gain momentarily.
In the rear the black stream of ravenous fiends is clearly
visible.

I draw my pistols and examine them, for on their
execution escape will probably depend.

At length we leave the forest, but the fierce pack are

SERGE'S STORY. 35

close at our heels. Ahead in the distance gleam lights.
It is the posting-house, and there there is safety.

Harder and harder Vladimir lays on the whip, but
there is no need of such punishment, for well the horses
know that their lives depend upon their speed. But the
pursuers cover the ground faster still, for they are driven
to madness by hunger, and already anticipate assuaging
it. The leaders of the bloodthirsty throng are within a
yard or two. Others momentarily are gaining ground
on either flank, when I fire two shots, and two black spots
upon white snow tell with what effect. The foremost of
the pack halt to tear their maimed comrades to pieces,
we gain but a moment, for the others are close
in pursuit, and again they are upon us ; their white
fangs and piercing eyes can be distinctly seen, when one
more powerful than the others dashes to the front. My
pistol almost touches his muzzle, when I press the
trigger, and his fate is sealed. At length we are all but
surrounded, I cannot reload fast enough to keep the
assailants at bay, and every chance of life appears to be
over, when the sledge is suddenly lightened, and the
horses, with renewed efforts, plunge more rapidly for-
ward. The posting-house is at hand ; the blood-thirsty
animals give up the pursuit. But where is Vladimir ?
He has given his life to save his master.

CHAPTER V.
CONTINUATION OF SERGE'S STORY.

NOT far from the King's Street in the town of Hanover
there was a garden, whither the merry-minded inhabi-
tants were wont to retire on summer evenings. Tivoli
was its name. The band played every evening, and at
the little tables it was not an easy task to obtain a chair,
unless one came early or stayed late until the music was
over, when only the cheerful clinking of the glasses, as
healths were drunk in the old-fashioned style, mixed
harmoniously with rippling laughter and the hum of
chattering tongues. The numerous trees bore clusters
of Aladdin-like fruits ; they were of coloured glass,
through which passed a single jet of gas, and in the
light of them the statues and fountains shone out white
and cool amongst the numerous shrubs.

The gardens are full this evening, for there has. been
a " gala " performance at the theatre, and as the air is
warm even to sultriness many, who are early to bed
as a rule, have been tempted to spend an hour in the
open air, to drink one more glass of beer, or to enjoy
one more ice.

All the men are smoking, for the ladies rather like it
than otherwise, although the cigars are domestic and
inexpensive. An Englishman would call them horrid
until he had grown to like them. But somehow, upon
such a night as this, the mingled scent of flowers, per-

CONTINUATION OF SERGES STORY. 37

fumes, tobacco, and what not, assuredly does not seem
otherwise than suitable to the place and soothing to
the senses.

The band, which is a remarkably good one, is playing
the "Anvil" chorus in perfect time, and the hush of
voices shows how well the performance is appreciated.
As a finale, a selection of German airs, arranged by the
conductor, brings down a storm of applause, and then
the band is over for the evening, and the crowded stage
is empty, save of the few employe* s who collect the sheets
of music and turn out the foot lights, or loiter to listen
a moment or two to the hum of renewed conversation
swelling louder and louder from the surrounding seats.
The place is full of people, students with their many
coloured ribbons, each denoting the wearer's club and
rank therein, officers in uniform, often gorgeous, that of
the Hussars amongst others, Uhlans in their stately-
looking blue frock-coats, Volunteers, and a medley of
others undistinguishable to an untutored eye.

There is a small scattering of Englishmen, some of
them residents in the town, some merely travellers.
The former are a very Conservative clique, and only
know a few of the " best " people, looking disdainfully
upon all new comers, whilst the latter gaze unreservedly
around, critically examining every face and costume
that may strike their fancy as any new specimen of
nature's creation should be stared at.

At the far end of the sparkling gravel-strewn path
there appears a jovial party, all drinking Bavarian beer
from their glass " pewters," or schoppens as they are
called, while on the table stand a goodly number of the

38 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

empty bottles. Judging from their hats these are all
students, and they are all as happy as sand-boys. A
waiter is standing by to receive orders, chuckling ever
and anon at some joke or other that is more broad than
witty. One of the youngest of the five comrades turns
round to order some more beer, for he has been caught
napping according to a custom more amusing than con-
venient, which is as follows : Each schoppen has a
cover ; when you drink you must keep this open with
your thumb, and when you have finished the lid must
be closed, or as was the case at this moment a pile of
your companion's schoppens with the lids open will be
placed instantly on yours. This means, as Americans
would express it, " drinks all round," at your expense.
Suddenly this jovial coterie rise from their chairs and
await the approach of an expected guest no other
than myself. Since that dreadful night, when my play-
mate, friend, almost brother, had acted his part in the
fearful tragedy I have recounted, I have been in Han-
over for a whole year, and have learned to speak Ger-
man almost as well as a native. These students ever
made me welcome ; they knew my nationality, and the
cause of my banishment ; possibly this occasioned my
popularity ; notwithstanding this I could not help feel-
ing that I was a stranger in a strange land, for I had a
mother and friends and relatives whom I dared not
visit.

The funds provided for my maintenance were ample,
and if I had been travelling for pleasure, doubtless I
should have enjoyed myself, but when I thought of my
banishment, and of my being unable to return to the

CONTINUATION OF SERGES STORY. 39

home of my fathers, I could not help grieving over my
unfortunate lot.

My German student friends tried to dissipate my low
spirits when they perceived them, yet they often failed
when they thought they had succeeded. Travel and
travel alone I felt convinced would do me good, constant
change of association and scene would give me relief.
Hence I resolved to leave my kind friends and visit the
great New World. In doing so I have had the good for-
tune of making your acquaintance. My introduction to
you has already brought you into trouble, never mind,
if the day should come that you require my aid believe
me nothing will afford me greater pleasure than to
give it.

From that hour we resolved to share fortune together.

CHAPTER VI.
ST. JOE'S.

IT was a Sunday afternoon when we entered St Joe's,
for by this abbreviated name the town of St Joseph's is
best known. It wore a holiday appearance, for all on
the streets were habited in their best ; but the character
of dress told distinctly that the lives of the inhabitants
were different from those of the populations of the
other towns and cities we had lately visited. The time
of year, the month of May, was when the trading
and trapping expeditions start upon their hazardous
journeys ; so the majority of the persons engaged in
this trade make St Joe's now their head-quarters. I
will not assert that buckskin was the prevailing mate-
rial that those we met were attired in, still it was worn
by a large number ; and when it was seen upon the
figure of a tall, well-made man, it was excessively be-
coming, particularly when ornamented, as that of many
was, with trimmings of green fringe, with the bril-
liantly stained quills of the porcupine prepared by the
skill of some dusky beauty, who preferred being the
mistress of a free trapper to the wife of a brave of her
own race.

On the verandah of the hotel where we put up, in
front of the hall-door, stood a splendid specimen of the
reckless race of men that devote themselves to such a
life. In his moccasins, brilliant in numerous gaudy

ST. JOES. 41

colours skilfully blended together, he must have stood
quite six feet three inches in height ; the sleeves of his
hunting-shirt and the breast of it were similarly and
quite as elaborately ornamented, while from his trouser-
seam hung a line of dark hair. On his head was a
tight-fitting cap of otter or beaver, redolent with the
gloss of a fur taken when the pelt was in the most
perfect condition. Around his waist was a belt of
brown leather from which hung a Colt's revolver, a
bowie-knife, a tomahawk, and a cartridge pouch. The
manner and bearing of the man were exactly fitted to
set off to perfection such a costume. If one of Fene-
more Cooper's heroes had come to life, he might, I
imagine, have taken just such a form as that of the
man who stood before us.

The muscular development of this man, whom I had
already in imagination created a hero, was not so great
as might have been expected, but there was an agility
and gracefulness in his gait that denoted that he did
not carry one superfluous ounce of flesh. He might
have been thirty, certainly not more ; for although the
result of exposure could be seen in the colour on his
cheeks, on his forehead, and underneath his eyes, they
were unfurrowed by a line that marked age ; while a
happy, good-tempered, devil-may-care eye gave his
features, which were decidedly handsome, that attrac-
tive look that must at once have made him a general
favourite with the fair sex.

I would have given a great deal to have made his
acquaintance there and then, but our names had to be
entered in the hotel books and rooms allotted to us.

42 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

After performing these formalities I returned to the
verandah, where I found he still was. As chairs were
abundant upon it, I selected one, and, lighting a cigar,
again feasted my eyes upon my idol. Everybody that
passed knew him ; every one had a friendly nod for
him ; and his responding greeting seemed to be equally
demonstrative to old and young, rich and poor.

A well-known character he doubtless was, and I had
almost resolved to go into the hotel and ask the clerk
about him, when the clatter of horses' feet announced
that some swift rider was approaching. A moment after
a mustang, coming at its best pace, rushe<J up to the
hotel ; the rider was evidently a woman, although sitting
cross-legged. In an instant, with a shock that would
have thrown an unskilled equestrienne over the horse's
head, the brilliantly-clad horsewoman drew up ; for
brilliant she truly was, in scarlet and blue blankets,
beaded embroidery, brightly fringed skirt, and blue-
black hair drawn into a knot at the back of her
head. The rich brown complexion, not darker than I
have often seen among English gipsies, spoke of Indian
origin ; but whether this supposition is right or wrong,
her features had a regularity that few Europeans might
not have envied. On horseback she was so perfectly
at home that she could not fail to be graceful, but after
she had vaulted off a feat performed with an agility
only attained by long practice her charms were
lessened ; for even if she had been habited in long
skirts, which she was not, it could hardly have escaped
the observer's notice that she was pigeon-toed. Who
was she? The Indian wife of the hero in buckskin.

ST. JOE s. 43

She approached close to her lord and master, and
kissed his hand ; after which he addressed her in an
unknown tongue Indian, I suppose. Immediately
afterwards a horse was led round ; both without delay
mounted, and disappeared down the street at a pace
that would have evoked the displeasure of the guardians
of the peace in Rotten Row. I soon found from the
inmates of the hotel that the man was a well-known
trader and Indian fighter, who had lately returned
from the plains, and was fitting out a fresh expedition
for the Mexican frontier; that, from the wonderful
dangers he had gone through scatheless, and the
hazardous adventures he had undertaken and success-
fully accomplished, the tribes of the plains universally
believed that he bore a charmed life, or was under the pro-
tection of the evil one, and so called him "Devil's Child."

This man and his squaw were but the types of dozens
that I saw, but with this difference, that he was accounted
a swell amongst them, and was as superior to the others
in trappings and outfit as he was in personal appearance.

As I entered the hotel for supper, I congratulated
myself that at last I had arrived in that land of adven-
ture, the description of which I had ever considered the
most attractive literature on which I could lay my hands.

Our journey from St Louis had been fatiguing, for
the protracted dry weather had converted the prairie
roads into a mass of sand, and the last hundred miles
traversed was decidedly the worst part of the road. So
that in spite of all the attractions that a night view of
St Joseph's might have presented, we retired early ; not
to sleep soundly, for every now and then, the streets

44 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

would echo with the shout of some drunken bacchinal,
yelling war-whoops or singing patriotic or love songs.

Sunday is almost invariably an off day where the
English tongue is spoken. Here we found no excep-
tion to the rule ; for the bustle and stir that we found
in the market place and around the hotel, the rushing
to and fro of mules, horses, and waggons, recalled
vividly to my memory a horse fair in my now distant
native land ; and among all this confused crowd were
mixed Indians and their squaws the men only avoid-
ing being run over by movements so indifferent that
they seemed to escape as if by accident, while the
squaws hopped nimbly from side to side, and laughed
the louder the nearer they seemed to danger.

The majority of these children of the soil were in all
the glory of war-paint, and when occasionally represen-
tatives of hostile tribes would come face to face,
the manner in which they would stare with lowered
brows and eyes fixed upon each other, told plainly that
if the wild prairie had been their meeting place, scalps
would have been lost and taken.

I particularly noticed two men the one an Osage,
the other a Pawnee ; both men were splendidly built
and powerful men, each exceeding six feet in height.
As these tribes were on the war-path, both doubtless
required to make no little effort to restrain their ani-
mosity. There was more than one white man who
appeared desirous of encouraging a breach of the peace,
and offered freely to go their bottom dollar, or their pile,
on the result ; but the redmen knew that white men's
laws were not to be trifled with, and that if they gave

ST. JOE'S. 45

way to their antipathies, they would incur certain
punishment I have heard it stated here as a fact,
and I have no doubt it is at least to some extent true,
that an Indian would at any time prefer death to im-
prisonment, and that when it is necessary to incarcerate
them, the confinement, if prolonged for more than two
or three weeks, commonly proves fatal.

Among the numerous squaws that crowd the side
walks, all engaged in selling specimens of their skill, the
young ones are frequently pleasant looking, a few are
really good looking ; but there is no denying the fact,
that they all fearfully want cleaning. The old women
are dreadfully ugly ; in many instances actually repul-
sive. This, doubtless, results from the life they lead
after marriage, for as soon as they become wedded to a
brave, all the heavy labour either in travelling, bring-
ing home game, or tanning hides devolves upon them.

An Indian brave will hunt, or go on the war path, but
will seldom do more. Even the game that he kills is
generally left where it falls, whence one of the squaws
is despatched to bring it in.

The Indians of the plains have frequently horses to
perform this labour, but if this is not the case, then on
the squaw's shoulders the weight of the load is certain to
be laid ; and if she has children, when she is not stagger-
ing under the weight of game, she will commonly be
found with the youngest on her back, strapped to a
board which is kept in its position by a band of green
hide or with, which passes across the mother's forehead,
forcing her for the sake of equilibrium to keep inces-
santly in such a stooping position, that afterwards she

CHAPTER VII.

I FIND EMPLOYMENT.

To the plains in spite of bowie-knives, six-shooters,
and tomahawks, we had determined to go. There is
a fascination about this devil-may-care life that was
fairly enchanting to me, and fortunately my companion
saw it in the same light.

We got much information on the subject from the
barman, a gorgeous swell in low-cut waistcoat, with care-
fully powdered hair, and with an amount of collar, breast,
and cuffs that would stock a draper's shop, not to speak
of a diamond-cluster brooch as big as a half-penny. To
the authority of such a man, persons of much more pre-
tensions to a knowledge of life must have succumbed.

As my funds had begun to get a little low, and as I
saw no prospect of obtaining an immediate addition to
them, it had become necessary that I should be doing
something as soon as possible. A person who kept a
livery-stable and took a fancy to me, from the manner
in which I rode an unbroken colt, that had thrown all
its late riders, touched me upon the shoulder as I dis-
mounted from this volunteered performance, and wished
to know if I should like a job. This was no less than
to break horses, and assist him in his bait and sales-
stable, in return for which twenty-five dollars a month,
with bed and board, were offered me. But even this life,

I FIND EMPLOYMENT. 47

which would be deemed by many exciting enough, did
not possess in my eyes the fascination of a journey across
the far Western prairies. Thanking my would-be em-
ployer, who politely informed me that I might go further
and fare worse, I declined his offer, being pledged to
Serge.

The most forward train, and therefore the most likely
to start first, was that belonging to the person whom I had
observed standing in the verandah on the evening of my
arrival. We had some hesitation in seeking an interview
with him, for his apartments ever appeared crowded, and
he himself seemed overwhelmed with business; at length
we determined to put a bold face on the matter, sent up
our names, and requested a few minutes of his valuable
time. Soon after, we were admitted to an apartment
filled with fire-arms, ammunition, and cases of such
goods as were suitable for the Indian trade. We found
him seated in front of a table covered with bills, receipts,
and other business-like documents. In a moment, with-
out waiting for us to open the conversation, he requested
to be informed what was the object of our visit. This
was briefly stated ; a desire to join his train. "What
can you do, youngster?" he said to me. " Drive a team,
pack a mule, keep camp, or cook?" Of each of these
acquirements, I confessed ignorance.

" Then tell me, stranger, what use you would be of to
me. Look you here, I am not that sort that want gentle-
men bumming about me, eating as much as two ordinary
men, and doing nothing for it. No, no ; if that's the
sort you are, you had better make tracks back east, and
go into a dry-goods store. Broadway, with patent leather

48 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

boots on your feet, is more suited to your complaint,
than tramping on the plains in Moccasins."

These pointed remarks did not please me. I felt, in
the language of the country, that my " dander was riz,"
so my nervousness disappeared, and I found my tongue.
"I can break the wildest colt you ever threw a bridle
over. If you don't believe me, ask Bristoe, the livery-
stable keeper. And in shooting, I can say I have seldom
been beaten."

"With a bird-gun, I daresay, Mr Britisher, for that's
where you come from, I guess," he responded, "but
children's traps like that are not wanted here. Still, I
like your grit, so I'll give you a chance. I've two
hunters engaged already, so, till we get to the hunting-
ground, you can help packing and doing odd jobs ;
after that, I guess you'll have gunning enough to do,
and that with a pretty fair chance of getting your hair
riz. Twenty dollars and your keep and kit is all I can
give you. If it's a bargain, come back at five o'clock
and sign the agreement."

" Now, what can your friend do ? "

"Oh! he can drive very well. Will fetch him along."

This closed the interview, and we took our departure.

Punctually to the hour we were there. An hour after,
with several others, we came forth. No longer were we
our own masters, for our pay commenced from that
hour.

Until we started, which we looked forward to doing
daily, I had literally nothing to do, for all the prelimi-
nary work was intrusted to residents of the town. The
services of the hunters, teamsters, &c., being dispensed

I FIND EMPLOYMENT. 49

with till the journey commenced, thus affording them,
as was doubtless intended, ample opportunity of getting
rid of their advanced 'pay at the numerous gambling
houses and other places of amusement or dissipation.
Having nothing to occupy our attention, one day we
found our way to the coral, when numerous green
horses and mules were being bitted and ridden for the
first time. Indians were employed in this work. Very
much to my disgust I found that a white man had not
a ghost of a chance in competing with them in this
occupation. However the person that was employed to
keep tally so irritated the master with his slowness in
writing and incorrectness in figures that I volunteered
to perform his duty. By this chance I gained a friend
and made a foe, for I was promoted to the rank of
clerk in addition to my former duties, with twenty
dollars a month added to my salary, while I learned
that thus early in attempting to gain my own subsist-
ence I had made an enemy, who did not hesitate to tell
me as I came out of the enclosure, that he would not
lose an opportunity either to injure my character or to
do me bodily harm. As I felt, or thought I felt, quite
capable of taking care of myself, I did not much mind
the threat.

CHAPTER VIII.

ACROSS THE PRAIRIE.

EXACTLY a week after our engagement had been signed,
the train was declared ready for departure, and an orgie
in consequence took place that night ; those who had not
money borrowed from their companions, so before the
sun set all were as drunk as bad whisky could make
them. The bar-room of the hotel was a perfect pande-
monium with numerous voices ordering fresh drinks and
cigars, while others in loud and excited tones were pro-
claiming the deeds of prowess they would perform when
they got fairly into the buffalo range.

It was evident to me that I had become unpopular.
I had done nothing to make me so, so I attributed it to
the person who had had to resign the registry at the
coral in my favour. Being far from desirous of risking
a quarrel, and possibly having to exhibit my prowess in
a bar-room, Serge and I retired to our own chambers.
About 10 P.M. there was a fearful row down stairs, the
disturbance increased to an extraordinary degree, and
in addition to the chorus of voices, we heard the break-
ing of glasses, &c., &c.

Soon after a waiter entered our room to see that all
was right for the night. I asked the cause of the tur-
moil.

" Mr Sweeney," he said, " had had a rough and turn-

ACROSS THE PRAIRIE. , 5 1

ble-fight with Jacque Crider, and had got his eye pretty
badly gouged and one of his fingers chawed off."

Now Mr Sweeney was the gentleman whose enmity I
had provoked. He had doubtlessly bottled up his
wrath for my special benefit, and when I did not make
any appearance he felt spoiling for want of a fight, and
found Mr Crider willing to accommodate him. On the
morrow, at a very early hour, the train started. Mr
Sweeney was not to be found, he had absconded tem-
porarily till we left town ; I cannot say that his absence
grieved me much. In fact I felt sure from the look of
the fellow that we couldn't be a month together without
coming to blows.

None but those who have experienced it can imagine
the trouble and labour attached to the few days suc-
ceeding our start. First the mules would not draw to-
gether, or by their kicking and bucking got over the
pole or under the traces : one refractory mule, it may be
noticed, is able to make incapable of control what
otherwise would be the most orderly team. When this
happened the rebellious animal had to be unhitched and
forced back into his place, all the waggons in the train
that were in the rear being brought to a standstill while
the operation was being performed.

Another trick that these four-legged gentry had was,,
if turned loose to feed after their day's work, or if they
could break from their coral during the night, to return
to the last camping place, or that of the day before even,,
if both pasture and water were more abundant where
they were. But a week's work brought the stubborn
brutes to their bearings, and the second week out made

52 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

them look, whether they felt it or not, like the most sub-
missive of man's servants.

From the length of the train, Serge and I had been
almost entirely separated lately, but one day I came
across him. It was in this way.

Some of the mules had broken loose during the night,
and as they usually do, had wandered back in the
direction of our last camping ground ; in fact, many who
were competent to offer an opinion thought they would
not be recovered without going back all the way to St
Joseph's. Being a light weight I was despatched with
one of the hunters to overtake the truants, which we
did after a sharp ride of nearly twenty miles. On my
return I overtook Serge. He was sadly out of sorts
and complained much of his comrades, earnestly regret-
ting that we were compelled to be so much apart.
Before a week was over I succeeded in getting him put
in charge of one of the foremost waggons, with conse-
quently one of the best teams, for its former driver had
never been sober since leaving St Joseph's, and had
consequently been dismissed.

I had by this time seen a great deal of Serge, and the
more I did the more I liked him. He spoke so little
of himself, and boasted so little of his accomplishments,
that it took time to learn his worth. The violin, flute,
and cornopean I learned that he played well, but the
piano was his favourite instrument. " Reste, man cher
ami" he would say, " when we get to Puebla, if these
barbarous Mexicans have a piano, I will play your
favourite as often as you like." What I had called my
favourite was Weber's last valse.

ACROSS THE PRAIRIE. 53

I would not for a moment infer that I am better bred
or better born than those that surrounded me, but their
ways were not my ways; their amusements and pursuits
not mine. True, I can play at cards, but not all day and
every day; nor do I like to hear the remarks between deals
interlarded with oaths, or to have my partner addressing
me, when I please him, as an " old hoss," or " a bully
boy with a glass eye," and when I do the reverse, as a
" darned old skunk," or a " tarnation fool." To those
accustomed to them these may appear most endearing
or expressive terms, but I confess to having been suffi-
ciently ignorant of this style of conversation not to
appreciate it as the teamsters did. I was and am no
better than my neighbours. A quiet game at loo, or
vingt et un, would many an evening have been acceptable,
but with such accompaniments I did not quite relish it.

As it was with me so it was with Serge. Thus we
were thrown a good deal on each other's society, and
whatever may have been the case with him, I never
tired of his company. While the others were making
the camp ring with their Bacchanalian songs, and their
Indian cries, he and I would lie upon the prairie grass,
near the camp fire, and talk of former times or future
schemes, or of such reminiscences of literature or art as
our knowledge or experience afforded, an intercourse
which seemed to afford sufficient interest and amuse-
ment to both.

Four weeks passed after we left St Joe's before we
came in sight of buffaloes. The first of these animals
that we saw was a solitary bull, but although he was as
thin as a fence rail, and evidently as old as the hills, he

54 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

put the whole camp in a state of excitement bordering
on insanity. But for the Boss's interference every team
would have been deserted ; and many a curse and oath
was heard when he gave the order that none were to
leave their waggon to join in the hunt. As Mr Bonte was
not the person who would brook his orders to be dis-
puted, and as his subordinates evidently knew it, he
was obeyed.

The buffalo must have been ignorant of the excite-
ment he caused in our ranks, and the craving he had
excited among us to shed his blood, for he grazed on in
a line with our route till less than a mile severed him
from the head of our column. Then the chief despatched
one of the professional hunters to kill the poor animal.
The chase was exciting, for the pace of a mile or more
was far faster than could have been expected, but when
a wreath of smoke arose, denoting that a trigger had
been drawn upon his tawny hide, all the sport was
over, for the gigantic game tottered forward, tried to
steady himself, and immediately afterwards fell over on
his side. With horse and rider so thoroughly up to
their work, as these two were, the result of the chase is
seldom long doubtful, unless the start is a bad one, or
the riding ground has been undermined by prairie dogs.

When we reached the carcase life was extinct.
Through the shaggy hide the death wound could
scarcely be distinguished ; but I marked the spot, the
lesson learned from the locality being one I hoped to
turn to account at a future and not far distant day.

I had two horses ; one my own, the other belonging
to my employer. The former I purchased, because he

ACROSS THE PRAIRIE. 55

was sold for an old song, and although he was low in
flesh, he had the framework of an animal that could, if
got into condition, go and keep up well. My reason
for acquiring this animal was that by having a spare
horse I should feel more independent Naturally I
spared my own, and worked the animal supplied me,
so I saw with gratification that the former was gather-
ing flesh day by day, improving in spirits, and obtaining
a glossy short coat, in place of the rough, staring cover-
ing it had formerly exhibited.

When I first brought it to the coral I -was laughed
at. Some one sung out, " Here comes Johnny Bull
with a dromedary " an opinion all seemed to share
but public estimation soon changed ; the lean, fine
withers and neck, the thin mane and tail, were now
regarded, as I had all along regarded them, as indica-
tions of breeding. Twice within a few days of the time
of which I write I had tried my mare for such she was
for a short time, and the only fault I could discover
was that she bored a little. I felt satisfied that if she
had pluck to run alongside of a buffalo, she had both
endurance to do so, and pace to come up with it. My
other mount is a chesnut mustang, cocky and showy,
as these diminutive horses ever are ; it will go from
morning to night if not over-paced. This, indeed, it
is not difficult to do ; but the breed has one advantage,
they will thrive where other horses would starve.
From this animal's viciousness, and obstinate refusal to
be saddled and bridled, I should not be surprised if, a
few years before, it had been ranging wild over the
northern plains of Texas.

56 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

Three days had passed without our seeing buffalo.
This had produced much disappointment in camp,
more especially as a false alarm had been given that
placed every one on the qui vive. A large animal was
descried in the distance, which every one at once pro-
nounced to be a buffalo, but which, on closer inspec-
tion, turned out to be a large mule. It would be difficult
to say which was the most delighted, he at his meeting
friends, or we at obtaining so valuable a prize. Where
the animal could have come from was a puzzle to all,
for no emigrant train had started before us, nor were
there reported to have been seen yet in the locality any
Indians from whose bands he might have strayed.

The squaw of Bonte had been grand to look at for
some days. At all hours she might be seen dashing
about, first on one mustang, then on another. How
many of these indefatigable little horses she tired in a
day I cannot say, but certainly two or three. Her
costume had been a marvel of brilliant colouring, and
all this display was put on because it was just possible
we should meet Indians before long ; and she wished
to excite the admiration of their braves, and to create
jealousy in the bosoms of their squaws.

The grass, which heretofore had been sufficiently
abundant, now became so luxurious that our beasts
stood almost knee-deep in it. They no longer evinced
a desire to wander, and if they were not troubled by
the flies, which here are a fearful pest, they might have
led a comparatively happy life. Our camps were ex-
ceedingly picturesque, particularly when illuminated at
night with the camp fire, round which invariably might

ACROSS THE PRAIRIE. 5 7

be seen crowds of strong-bearded armed men reclining
in every attitude, some spinning yarns, the majority
gambling.

To make a safe coral for the mules, now that the
attacks of Indians might occur at any moment, or
attempts be made by them to carry off our cattle, the
pole of each waggon was brought against the back-
board of the one in front of it, the whole forming a
circle. When this method is adopted it is almost im-
possible to stampede the animals ; moreover, among the
waggon wheels a capital and secure look-out place can
be obtained for the sentries, who take duty in rotation,
four hours at a time, the same as on board ship.

As we hitched up on the twenty-second day from St
Joe's, the camp was put into a rare state of excitement
by the appearance of a large herd of buffaloes, still
several miles off, but feeding towards us. " Les bazufs !
les bceufs ! " shouted the French Canadians, while we
all congratulated each other on the immediate prospect
of feasting on fat cow. By nine o'clock we were
within a mile and a half of the herd, which appeared
too numerous to be counted extending to the south,
even to the horizon. No order was observed in their
ranks, each evidently being actuated by two motives
to move northward, and to obtain the best croppings
of grass. There was no division among the sexes, al-
though the cows were accompanied invariably by one,
sometimes by two calves ; one of which, from its greater
size, was apparently a year older than the other. So
immense was this collection of cattle, that it was im-
possible to calculate with any degree of accuracy their

58 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

numbers; and from their not being at all wild an
indication that they had not lately been disturbed it
was concluded that Indians were not in the neighbour-
hood. Orders were therefore issued for the waggons to
be coralled. As soon as this was accomplished, a
general holiday was granted to those who chose to
hunt, for beef was wanted. About half our numbers
availed themselves of the opportunity, all of whom
were soon marshalled, heavy pistols and rifles being the
prevailing weapons among them. Under the guidance
of our chief, who was a celebrated buffalo-hunter, we
advanced toward the game under the shelter of a swell
in the prairies for a short distance, after which we
availed ourselves of the nearly dry bed of a water-
course, until we were not more than a few hundred
yards from the game. On the question being put if all
were ready, and the confirmatory answer given, like a
charge of cavalry all broke from our cover, and dashed
upon the herd. For a moment the nearest animals
regarded us with alarm, then scattering in every direc-
tion, they fled from our attack. I had now neither time
nor inclination to watch the performances of others,
but taking my little mount, the mustang, well in hand,
pressed him in pursuit of the sleekest cow I could find.
However ponderous and unwieldy these creatures look,
and however apparently unfitted for rapid locomotion,
they get over the ground for a mile or two at an
amazing pace. I found this to my surprise, but my
horse was fresh and gifted with endurance, so at last I
was nearly alongside the quarry ; but here I experi-
enced a difficulty I had not anticipated. In spite of

ACROSS THE PRAIRIE. 59

my spurs I could not get my nag to range alongside,
so as to afford a broadside shot. But this I afterwards
learned was a common fault with green or unpractised
horses ; for the buffalo, particularly when heated by
flight, emits a musky odour which is so repulsive to the
equine family, that many horses can never be induced
to come near them. But as my cow commenced to
slacken her pace through fatigue, and my mustang from
the same reason to lose much of his obstinacy, a judi-
cious application of steel and a lift with the bridle
brought him abreast of the game. In a moment after
I had delivered my shot, but too far back, I felt Con-
fident, to prove fatal. Wheeling to the left, I changed
my pistols, and made a second dash alongside. The
cow, however, now seemed to regard me as a dangerous
attendant, for every time I attempted to regain the
necessary position, she shook her head and evinced a
disposition to charge. But if I had submitted to be
cowed by such conduct, the chase might have been pro-
longed for ever ; so again shaking the pony up, and
rousing him with the spur, at the same time keeping
him well in hand, I made another dash. I fired again,
but too rapidly, and placed my second ball extremely
near my first, no perceptible effect being apparent
from it.

Having to reload my pistols, which were single barrels,
some time was lost, of which the cow, although much
pumped, made good use, and thus had enlarged the gap
between us by over one hundred and fifty yards, but the
plucky little horse with my light weight soon pulled this
up, and gave me the best chance I had yet obtained.

6O TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

Rushing alongside, I delivered my fire, and sheered off.
In doing so, as luck would have it, my horse crossed his
legs and came down with fearful violence. It is not
pleasant at any time for a horse to fall with you, but it
should be part of the education of a horseman when
such an accident occurs to get as rapidly as possible
clear of his beast. I did my best, but could not pre-
vent myself from getting so much shaken that several
minutes elapsed before I was thoroughly conscious of
where I was or what I had been doing. My pony, which
had regained his legs, stood by me ; the sight of him
restored my presence of mind. In an instant I was in
the saddle, and looking for the game. Within a short
distance the cow stood, from its nose and mouth blood
flowed abundantly, while its attitude denoted that it
could not go further. I approached the poor animal to
fire a final shot, and thus terminate its pain, but in
whatever direction I advanced towards it, it invariably
turned its shaggy brow, thus offering me no vital point
to shoot at. Again and again I moved my position, but
the result was the same. I had almost resolved to give
up the attempt, when with a sudden quiver, which
appeared to convulse its whole frame, the poor wounded
animal fell over, and with a convulsive effort and a few
ineffectual struggles to regain its legs, expired. Buffalo
shooting, when practised in this manner, requires little
skill, and presents few elements of danger. Coolness
and a reliable horse one that is thoroughly under con-
trol, or understands his work being all that is requisite
to become distinguished in this description of sport.
Although Buffaloes surrounded me on every side, I

ACROSS THE PRAIRIE. 6 1

did not continue the hunt, for my horse was blown from
the severity of my run, and I feared shaken by his fall,
so taking the tongue, a tit-bit as I had learned, always
immediately appropriated by the successful hunter, and
leaving my handkerchief waving on a horn as a signal,
I returned to camp. Here all was excitement, for the
hunt had been eminently successful, and each had some
exploit to narrate, or some wonderful escape, according
to his own notions, to tell of. Good nature conspicu-
ously prevailed, and a more happy and contented crew
could scarcely have been found.

During the hunters' absence, those that did not engage
in the chase had busily exerted themselves in gathering
fuel and lighting fires, in anticipation of the coming
feast. Nor were they disappointed, for before the sun
set, the camp was redolent with the odours arising from
the cooking of hump-steaks and other savoury morsels.

About dark, Bonte visited the different camp fires to
inform us that on the morrow the waggons would move
on a mile or two to a more desirable camping ground,
a place where wood and water was more abundant, and
that there we should halt till all our beef was jerked.

This process is very simple. The flesh is cut into
strips not more than an inch in thickness, and hung on
waggons or bushes to dry in the sun, where it remains
till the moisture is completely evaporated. When meat
is thoroughly cured in this manner, it will keep for an
indefinite time, if not permitted to get wet or damp.

An extra allowance of grog was served out that even-
ing, and although the precaution of setting sentries was
not dispensed with, those on duty appeared to steal

62 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

away from their post and mix in the general hilarity,
which was of the most boisterous kind.

A little Frenchman, scarcely exceeding five feet in
height, and whom no one who had been of the party
could have failed to notice and regard as a character of
no usual importance in his own estimation, was at
the request of many induced to produce his violin.
Monsieur at first urged grave objections, such as his
incapacity as a performer, and therefore his unwilling-
ness to appear in the presence of so many distinguished
gentlemen, but all he could say was overruled ; so at
last, with a bow that would have done credit to a cour-
tier, he withdrew, returning shortly afterwards with the
instrument. It was soon evident that we had among us
a tolerable proficient on the instrument. After the in-
evitable scraping and screeching in getting the instru-
ment into tune, a number of familiar airs followed,
charming alike in selection, execution, and feeling.

Serge was beside me ; we both lay on the grass
stretched at our ease without regard to dignity. As I
have said, he was a thorough musician. After we had
both been silently listening for some time, "I should
judge," he said, "from the execution of that Frenchman
that he was a musician ; but from the expression of his
performance, I should fancy he was a gentleman."
That is, if you did not see him," I replied.

"No," he said, "you are mistaken, Frenchmen are
more lively in their manners, and freer in their gesticu-
lations than you are ; but there is as much difference
between the gesticulations of one Frenchman and
another, as there is between the gravity of an English

ACROSS THE PRAIRIE. 63

nobleman and the awkwardness of an English clown,
from the first moment I saw that little fellow, I knew he
was of the right breed."

But Monsieur was not permitted to confine his talents
to the description of music that evidently pleased him
best. No, the teamsters must have a dance, and all
attempts to oppose it were useless. The little French-
man protested that he did not know suitable airs.
" Make one then," shouted one, while another proposed
that he should play a negro melody. Against such a
degradation of his instrument the musician protested in
vain. Play he must, and making a virtue of necessity
soon had around him a crowd of teamsters, big six feet
two Missourians toeing a measure, either singly or in
couples, while the most hilarious mirth and the most
boisterous expressions of approbation came from the
onlookers.

For an hour and a half the merriment had continued,
when the countenance of the Frenchman began to
denote in the plainest manner that his patience was
getting exhausted, a pause in the dancing gave him the
desired excuse, and he ceased to play.

This gave general offence, and many would have in-
sisted on his playing on whether he would or not ; but
the expression of his countenance denoted determina-
tion, and the desire, I believe, is dominant in most
Americans not to interfere with individual rights, so the
majority desisted from pushing their point further.
But there was one man who, during the whole night,
had distinguished himself by the fearful oaths to which
he gave utterance on the most trivial occasions. In

64 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

appearance he was short, stout, round-headed, and bull-
necked, and with a most repulsive expression of counten-
ance. There was nothing in his appearance clearly
characteristic either of the Englishman or the American ;
but jail-bird was written in his face and manners so
plainly, that if he had not been repeatedly in prison, it
was evident he ought to have been.

This bully wanted to dance, and would dance. Be-
cause a d 'd little mosquito of a Frenchman wouldn't
play was their spree to be stopped ? " No, not if he
knew it ; no, if he broke the cussed fiddle over the
frog-eating Johnnie's head." With a hundred equally
polite speeches the scoundrel approached the little
Frenchman to put his threats into execution. At first
the spectators drew back from interference, but when
the desperado laid his hand violently on the Frenchman,
and gave indisputable evidence that he was about to
commit violence, strong hands from behind were laid
upon him, and in spite of his resistance he was dragged
off. It was evident that he both wanted a fight and
needed a good licking to bring him to his senses. Many
around him were willing to accommodate him, and
several quietly hinted as much to him, and would pro-
bably have proceeded to carry out their intentions, but
the diminutive Frenchman, who had apparently required
some minutes to comprehend the nature and grossness
of the insult that had been offered to him, sprung for-
ward, violently pushed the crowd on one side and the
other, till he had confronted his assailant, and in a high-
pitched voice exclaimed, " Gentlemen, I do not speak
English parfaitment, but you will understand. I am a

ACROSS THE PRAIRIE. 65

Frenchman and a soldier, that droll has insulted me. I
will fight. I not understand this," spinning one fist
around the other, " but I do the pistol and the rapier ;
in my waggon I have both, he take his pleasure, which
he prefer." And forthwith he rushed off to his waggon
amid shouts of applause.

At first the bully seemed cowed, then he rallied him-
self and professed to take it as a joke. But when the
infuriated little fellow returned with a brace of small
swords in one hand, and a case of pistols in the other,
he turned pale as death.

" Well, sa, you want to fight," commenced the little
hero, I am now at your service. These," alluding to the
swords, " are very good, but if you prefer the pistols, they
shoot very true, a little high ; they are at your disposal."

To this the othei* answered not a word.

Some of the most reckless wanted to see the sport, as
they denominated it, but common sense prevailed, and
the interposition of the more sober prevented what
might have been a bloody termination.

Never was a better lesson taught a bully. He slunk
off as soon as possible, and the remarks that followed
his exit showed how his conduct had been appreciated.
With all his efforts he had been unable to prevent be-
traying his abject cowardice. The Frenchman received
the compliments showered upon him modestly, and
bowing with grace, retired to his dormitory with his
weapons under his arm.

Our march on the following morning did not exceed
four miles ; it was through the scene of yesterday's hunt,
and over thirty carcasses which lay on and near our

66 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

course told how great had been the slaughter. But in
spite of the destruction that had been committed in
their ranks, buffalo were to be seen in all directions in
apparently undiminished numbers.

For the next two days our camp smelt and looked
like a butcher's shop. The covers of the waggons, even
their wheels, and the bushes that margined the creek's
banks, were festooned with ribbons of flesh drying in
the sun, while the horses and hunters who were going
to and fro, from the dead game to the camp, for where
an animal fell, there was it cut up, looked like a con-
gregation of the most blood-thirsty wretches that had
ever been congregated together ; for not only were their
faces and hands stained with blood, but their horses'
coats, doubly conspicuous when they were light in
colour, were similarly dyed.

Before I left New York, I heard buffalo-running pro-
nounced the prince of sports. At St Louis it was spoken
of in extasy; and all those with whom I had associated
in St Joe's those I mean who had been out on the
plains declared in raptures that it was the only kind
of hunting that deserved the name.

I cannot expect my American friends to agree with
me, but from my own experience, I can only attribute
the estimation in which the sport is held by them to the
size of the game, not to the skill necessary to kill it, or
to the danger of the enterprise.

Our present camp was very well situated for our pur-
pose. The prairie rolled more in this vicinity than in
the tract we had previously traversed, and it descended
on one side quite rapidly to the small stream on which

ACROSS THE PRAIRIE. 67

we were coralled. Along the margin of the stream grew
an abundance of water-alder, broken here and there by
large cottonwood trees which make excellent fuel, when
one can be found that has been prostrated a month or two.

Nowhere are wild flowers so abundant among the grass
as at this point about thirty miles west of the Pawnee
Fork, and so brilliant is their colouring that in some
parts they stain the landscape, as we often see poppies
do at home a field of oats.

But this neighbourhood is not always so attractive.
For only a small portion of the year is it so. A month
hence, reckoning from the time of our arrival, the power-
ful sun will have burned all the vegetation brown so
brown as almost to make it undistinguishable from the
soil, while, in winter, the ground is ever covered with
snow, not often deep, it is true, for the howling winds,
that sweep over the steppes prevent it lying where it
falls, but gather it up into immense drifts wherever
sufficient shelter can be found to let it rest, and in this
season the temperature frequently falls far below zero.

Continuous flashes of lightning had taken place all
night during our watch round the camp fire. The
weather-wise stated their belief that this was the indi-
cation of a coming storm. The ominous look of the
weather as day broke on the morrow indicated that
there was every probability of their prediction being
fulfilled. Clouds, fiery-red beyond description, covered
the eastern sky a few minutes before sunrise, then they
banked up in huge masses, and their brilliant hues gave
place to dark colours, and a strife appeared in the
heavens as if the dark clouds were endeavouring to-

68 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

crush each other, showing that strong currents of wind
were driving aloft in conflict.

Our horses and mules, contrary to their wont, which,
at break of day, is usually all excitement and ani-
mation, stood by their unstretched picket ropes, or
herded together with drooping heads and evident disin-
clination to exertion.

As we were about to hitch up, orders came for us to
shift camp to some higher ground about a mile further
on our route. In a moment all was bustle and con-
fusion. With alacrity we obeyed our instructions, and
pushed forward to the place designated. Evidently all
knew the necessity of expedition, and it was well that
it was used, for ere the waggons got into place the
storm commenced, ushered in by a tremendous down-
fall of rain. Soon this gave place to a succession of
puffs of wind, gradually increasing in force and duration
till it blew a tornado, rain with renewed violence then
Doming down in torrents, and thunder speaking almost as
soon as the lightning had time to herald its voice. It
was a storm of surpassing violence, such as leaves the
impression that no similar one had previously been seen.
And well it was that we had moved our camp ; for the
quiet orderly rivulet had now become a torrent, rushing
along with irresistible force and bearing on its bosom
debris collected from a wide extent of country.

Fortunately, these sudden storms are of short dura-
tion, and by three o'clock all had passed away ; the
only indications of what had occurred being the soaked
and flattened herbage, and the far away mutterings of
thunders, that occasionally broke the stillness.

ACROSS THE PRAIRIE. 69

If our camp had looked like a butcher's shop pre-
viously, now it resembled a washing and ironing estab-
lishment, with a very miscellaneous business ; for gar-
ments of every description in use among men, from
buckskin leggings to flannel shirts, were spread out to
dry. The tops of waggons are far from water tight,
and the ordinary valise used by the Western trader
affords little better protection.

But one benefit had resulted from the storm to com-
pensate for the discomforts it had brought us, viz., that
for sometime to come we should be free from dust, one
of the greatest nuisances of Western travel. For some
days previously we had eaten it, breathed it, and
drank it.

A little before sunset a false alarm occurred. The
shout of Indians echoed through the camp. In a
moment afterwards every one appeared, rifle in hand.
But who raised the scare, or what was the cause of it
could not be discovered, unless it was that the appearance
of an unusually large assemblage of buffaloes pressing
northward, with more than their accustomed speed,
frightened some of the greenhorns.

Such a scare is not without its use. It is an excellent
lesson occasionally to call all the undisciplined occupants
of the camp unexpectedly to arms, so that they may
learn to have their rifles always ready for use. That all
were ready to fight was proved by the rapidity with
which they responded to the summons. There, were
few of them indeed who did not know how little
faith is to be put in Indians, or of the cruel treatment to
which they subject their prisoners. But I fear, judging

70 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

from the stories I heard around the camp fire, that
there are two sides to this question. That white men
as seldom keep faith with the Indians, as the Indians
with them, and are quite as reckless as they in shedding
blood. One thing is certain, that we are the trespassers,
and that if we did not invade their territory there would
be small probability of their coming to us.

For some reason or other the sentinels were doubled
next night, and my service was required. I was for-
tunate in my first experience of duty. The night was
beautifully calm ; the moon overhead floated clear and
brilliant through a cloudless sky, while not a single
star appeared to have been spared from duty. I lay
among the bushes, on my ground sheet, about a hundred
yards in advance of the waggons. The novelty of my
situation made me at first nervous, and in the slightest
rustle of branch I imagined that I saw a foe ; but soon
this excessive state of watchfulness passed away, and I
was able to gaze with pleasure on the tranquil scene
that surrounded me. Not a sound broke the stillness
except an occasional neigh from the horses behind, or
the grunt or guttural roar of a distant buffalo. The
voice of the wolf was also once or twice echoed over the
waste ; but these stealthy scoundrels retain their great
vocal efforts for proclaiming the advent of daybreak.
A dear old watch dog, whose friendship I had gained,
was my companion on this occasion, and what a comfort
he was. Whatever might escape my attention, did not
escape his.

At length the last "All's well," echoed over the
prairie, that informed me I was to be relieved. How

ACROSS THE PRAIRIE. 71

many memories did this familiar sound recall of garri-
son and citadel, where my childhood years were passed,
when I had nought heavier to prey upon my mind than
how most profitably to get rid of my limited supply of
pocket money. I had been on guard four hours, but
time had fled so rapidly that although each half hour
had been called, and I had referred to my watch for
corroboration of its passage, it seemed impossible to me
that it could be over. And the night was so beautiful,
still and balmy, that the open air for a dormitory
appeared preferable to the most luxurious chamber in
the civilised world. However, I was soon relieved by
the little Frenchman who had recently distinguished
himself in his rencontre with the blustering bully who
wished to make him play against his will. The parole
appeared peculiarly indigestible to him ; I had to
repeat it several times before he appeared to compre-
hend it, at length, with an effort that indicated the
possibility of his becoming ill he said it. It was
Waterloo, to which he added a sacre, far more em-
phatically pronounced than the pass word.

CHAPTER IX.

A BRUSH WITH THE RED SKINS.

ANOTHER month had passed, and little alteration had
taken place in the appearance of the country that we
had traversed, except it be that if possible it looked
more sterile from the frequency of boulders cropping
out in every direction, and the occurrence of numerous
sun cracks, with bare red clay sides. Buffalo too, had
become less numerous, the greater number of those we
saw being patriarchal bulls but although no remark-
able scenery or hunting adventure has marked the
passage of time, two events had occurred that cannot
be effaced from our memory.

About a week after we left the encampment, where
we had made our first acquaintance with a prairie
storm, Indians made their appearance. Several false
alarms had been given of their appearance, putting all
the party in a state of excitement, and causing fre-
quently a delay of several hours in our march, but here
now was the red man in all the glory of war-paint and
feathers.

About three or four, after noon, the first of them was
discovered. We were toiling up a gradual slope, when
on a distant swell a figure was seen ; for a long time it
was supposed to be a rock, but with the aid of a tele-
scope, it was ultimately made out to be a solitary
horseman.

A BRUSH WITH THE RED SKINS. 73

During the previous night a fire had been seen by
several of us exactly in this direction. Thus we had no
doubt that this was a vidette thrown out by a large
force of Indians.

As evening advanced, and as we approached suffi-
ciently near to distinguish the mounted sentinel with
the naked eye, he withdrew behind the knoll on which
he was posted. Bonte regarded this as an extremely
bad sign, menacing hostilities ; so the two hunters, my-
self, Serge, and two more light weights, were despatched
to make a reconnaissance, with instructions on no
account to use our weapons unless required in self-
defence.

After riding quite ten or twelve miles we returned to
camp no wiser than we had left it, although we had
ascended the height on which the Indian sentry had
been seen, and there found abundant proof among the
trampled grass that our eyes had not deceived us.
From this elevated position we had a wide survey of
the country lying beyond ; but neither Indians nor
game could be seen in that direction. Being all well
mounted, and our horses being fresh, we determined to
make a push for another acclivity about three miles
distant, making a detour so as to examine the slopes
that we were to ascend ; but we had no better reward
for our labour ; for not a human being could be seen
and stranger still, not a place was observed that would
shelter a foe, except some distant rocks too far off for
us to reach, if we wished to return with daylight.

So we came home as ignorant as we went. Except
for an hour or two, on this occasion, for the first time, I

74 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

rode my own mare. Plenty of food and little to do had
rapidly put flesh on her carcass, while the exercise that
she had daily, prevented her becoming soft. To my de-
light I found that she was all and more than I expected ;
for not only had she speed, but a wonderful amount of
bottom, and she was extremely clever on her feet, a
good jumper, with high courage but not nervous. In
our gallop home I tried her paces against the others,
and found she could simply run away from them, but she
had less than eleven stones to carry while the weight of
my companions was considerably greater. It is not
wonderful that I was gratified at this discovery, as I
knew that in all probability, when pursuing my daily
avocation of hunting, and frequently for many miles
from the waggons, I should ride upon an ambuscade of
hostile Indians, nearly all in this locality being un-
friendly.

When sufficiently far from camp, not to disturb it by
the report of fire-arms, I had taken a shot at a large
grey wolf that sat upon a prairie dog's earth nearly two
hundred yards off; the moment I dropped my reins
upon the mare's withers, she stood so admirably that I
lodged the bullet within a short distance of my aim,
covering the animal with dust, and causing it to get out
of so dangerous a locality at its best pace.

For many reasons I had no doubt that this was not
my mare's first experience on the plains, and I thought
her former owner must have been grieved indeed when
necessity caused him to part with so valuable an
animal.

In the evening dark clouds rolled up from the west-

A BRUSH WITH THE RED SKINS. 75

ward, while the atmosphere had that still sultry feeling
that denotes an excess of electricity and the probability
of the near approach of a thunder storm ; but in spite of
the threatening state of the weather, double sentries
were told off and posted before it became dark.

About the camp that night, although few retired to
rest as early as was their usual custom, there was a dull-
ness and manifest depression of spirits, ominous of the
approach of danger. To add to this feeling the mules
and horses were restless in the extreme. A sign ever to
be regarded by the trader or trapper as indicative of the
presence of Indians ; for a white man's horse or dog has
strong objections to the red skins, can smell them a long
way off, and never fails to testify its knowledge of their
vicinity by unceasing restlessness.

At midnight I mounted guard. Bonte's dog Watch,
as previously, accompanied me. The storm, which had
for hours been anticipated, gave notice of its advent,
soon after I had reached my post, by the descent of a
few large drops of rain. These had ceased for some
minutes when a double blaze of the most lurid sheet
lightning illuminated the plains for miles around, and
before the echoes of the thunder had died away down
descended a torrent of rain far exceeding any I had pre-
viously witnessed. Figuratively speaking, one might as
well have been under a waterfall ; I used my ground rug
as a covering. The rain could not come through it, but
it soaked the ground around so thoroughly that stream-
lets and puddles commenced to form all around me.
Even the poor dog was uncomfortable, and testified it
by the frequency with which he altered his position.

76 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

But there was this consolation in the severity of the
storm, that it could not last long.

This was my first night of actual hardship ; I sincerely
hoped it might be the last, for although I had previously
thought that no one was better suited than I for the life
I had been leading, still how gladly would I have ex-
changed my present position for the comfortable snug
little bed-room in my father's house with the tiny French
bedstead, white sheets, and familiar books and pictures.

Unpleasant as was my experience I was far too
actively engaged between endeavouring to keep out
the wet, and to do my duty as a sentinel, to moralise
much over it ; but I believe for the first time I regretted
the step I had taken ; but assuredly I would have done
so more but for Serge, who had now become to me more
than any friend I had ever previously possessed.

After I had sung out my fifth " All's well," the dog
became exceedingly restless, and several times growled.
I knew the animal's nature too well not to regard this
warning. At length I heard distinctly the three notes
of a whistle preconcerted, used by us on such occasions
in place of a watchword. I answered it, and soon after
was joined by Bonte. He was a man that trusted no
one to perform such a duty without supervision when
more than common vigilance was necessary. A man of
few words, he told me to be particularly watchful for the
next hour, as the time just previous to the break of day
was that which the Indians selected for making an
attack or endeavouring to effect a stampede.

A moment after imparting this information he left me
as silently as he had approached. There was no doubt

A BRUSH WITH THE RED SKINS. 77

that the reputation he had earned on the prairies was
well merited ; that there were few men who understood
this wild life better than he, or to whom nature had
given a constitution more capable of enduring its
fatigues. Crawling and pushing his way through the
brush, every branch of which was now loaded with
moisture, while the rain still descended heavily, must
have drenched him as much as a water spaniel when
it takes a plunge in a river ; but when it was necessary
for the safety of the camp, he did not grudge the
exposure.

The seventh " All's well " had been sung out, the
rain for the last hour had gradually decreased, and I
was commencing to imagine that I could see indica-
tions in the eastern heavens that day was rapidly ap-
proaching, when the dog growled, but so slightly that I
was disposed to imagine a wolf or other wild animal was
what he smelt or saw.

For the few succeeding minutes all was silent, when
again the dog indicated by his manner that he was sus-
picious of the presence of intruders. For several minutes
all was still again, when again it uttered a deep but sup-
pressed growl.

As the dog evinced a disposition to rush forth into
the darkness I laid hold of it by the neck and pressed
it to the ground as if I were teaching him to " down
charge." He remained still, but never ceased to indi-
cate by his subdued mutterings that danger was to be
apprehended.

Earnestly I listened and gazed into the darkness, but
all around me was still as the grave. This continuous

78 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

tension of my nerves made me almost hear my heart
beat, and feel, possibly not fear, but a degree of nervous-
ness most unusual to me. Still I could distinguish
nothing, hear nothing, yet I felt that indescribable, un-
accountable sensation that persons often experience
indicative that some one is near them.

Over the thoroughly saturated herbage I knew that
a stealthy red-skin could steal in almost perfect silence,
and that possibly the first indication of his proximity
I might become aware of might be the sensation of his
sharp-pointed knife between my ribs, yet I dared not
leave my post. In the eastern heavens distinct lines of
light could be traced, but the earth still remained
shrouded in utter darkness ; the protracted suspense I
had been held in made me more and more nervous ;
while my eyes, through straining, filled with water;
and though still unable to perceive anything, I felt
thoroughly confident that danger was at hand. At
length my dog, in spite of the pressure of my hand to
force him down, rose to a sitting position ; and at that
instant I saw, or thought I saw, a dark object moving
near. My rifle, which had for more than half an hour
been cocked, came to my shoulder ; but as I sought to
take sight, the object on which I wished to align it
disappeared from view. Again the same thing oc-
curred, when the sharp crack of a small bore on the left
of my position was followed, a few seconds after, by
one on the right. Half a dozen stentorian voices from
the camp could be heard immediately afterwards, call-
ing the outlying sentries to retire upon the waggons.
With alacrity I obeyed orders, keeping all the time my

A BRUSH WITH THE RED SKINS. 79

face to the direction from which a foe would pro-
bably come, unless he had succeeded in getting within
our lines.

The darkness was still too intense to see distinctly
what was taking place around, but it was apparent that
each teamster was in his allotted place ; for, with the
exception of Bonte, and two or three of those in whom
he had the greatest confidence, no one was visible
when I reported my return, and what I had seen.

" Go to your post, youngster ; but I guess you won't
be kept there long. The villains found us too sharp
for them ; so they're off, and in fifteen minutes it will
be daylight," said the chief; and I turned on my heel
to obey his instructions. Soon afterwards day broke,
and with it, a quarter of a mile off, was discovered a
hobbled pony. Some of the most adventurous made a
dash at it, and brought it safe to camp. There was no
saddle upon it, not even a piece of blanket ; a piece of
green hide fastened round the lower jaw did the duty
of bridle, while in the animal's forelock were twisted a
couple of feathers. It was hard as nails but low in
flesh, and its shape promised more powers of endurance
than speed. Those skilled in Indian affairs pronounced
it to be the property of a Pawnee the position of the
feathers, and the manner the forelock was twisted,
being the grounds on which they based their opinion.
The general opinion as to how it came there and was
hobbled, was that it belonged to one of the party of
red-skins who had endeavoured to surprise the camp or
drive off our cattle during the night ; that the owner,
having left it, must have been too severely wounded

8O TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

from our fire to recover it ; and therefore he had been
either carried off by his comrades, or lay secreted in
the neighbourhood.

The sun did not make his appearance till late, and as
the ground had become extremely sloppy and heavy,
our departure was delayed. The interval was spent by
all but the horse-guard in cleaning arms and washing
clothes. About one o'clock we got under weigh, and
in five hours accomplished about twelve miles. Here,
from the excellence of the position, and the abundance
of grass the neighbourhood afforded, a halt was made,
and extra precautions were taken against a renewal of
the attack by our disappointed assailants of last night ;
for, when once the Indians have made up their minds
to seize the horses of a trader, they will follow him for
weeks. He is lulled into security by the belief that the
dangerous country has been passed, when a dash will
unexpectedly be made, and in a few minutes the depre-
dation that so much time and pains have been ex-
pended to escape will be consummated.

Towards daybreak next day another alarm awoke
the whole camp one of the outpost had shot at what
he imagined to be a mounted Indian. However, he
had been mistaken ; for, when daylight appeared, a
wounded buffalo was discovered within half a mile of
the camp.

Two days passed, in which upwards of thirty miles
of our journey were accomplished without Indians being
seen ; nevertheless, there were abundant evidences that
a large party of them were not far off, for extinguished
camp-fires, fresh trails, the remains of lately killed

A BRUSH WITH THE RED SKINS. 8 1

buffalo, were constantly being discovered, so that we
were compelled to maintain our vigilance.

Game, which had been previously so abundant, now
became scarce and exceedingly wild, so that my time
was constantly occupied in hunting ; and although four
of us were engaged in this occupation, it was with diffi-
culty we could keep the train sufficiently supplied with
fresh meat not to intrench upon the supplies hoarded
for a future period.

About noon I left the waggons slowly crawling up a
gradual ascent. In the vicinity was a considerable sized
stream, fed by several tributaries that intersected the
country before us. The course of all these could be
plainly distinguished by the scattered trees and bushes
that grew upon their margin, and with such landmarks
it was not easy to lose my way. So I gave my mare
her head and pushed on, in the hope of finding an un-
disturbed neighbourhood, where game was abundant.

After an hour's ride I succeeded in reaching a small
meadow, in which were grazing a herd of twenty-five to
thirty deer. To get within shooting distance of them,
I was compelled to make a stalk of several hundred
yards, through cover high enough to shelter me when on
my hands and knees. I had no liking for leaving my
mare, as in case of a surprise I regarded her as my best
friend ; but here was game, and to kill as much of it as
possible was my duty. Considering for a few minutes
whether the risk should be run or not, the apparent
lameness of the deer induced me to believe that they
had long been unaccustomed to the presence of man, and

therefore that there could be no Indians in the vicinity.

82 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

Tying my mare to a sapling in the centre of a consi-
derable growth of bushes sufficiently high to hide her and
sticking in my belt my Colt, a weapon Bouka had supplied
me with on account of my hazardous occupation, and
which from its weight was generally carried in my
holsters, I commenced my stalk. Without difficulty I
got within sixty yards of the game, when selecting a
large doe, I fired. The report of my rifle, or the fall of
their companion, did not alarm the herd more than
enough to make them raise their heads and cease feed-
ing for a few minutes. This tameness reassured me.
I advanced unobserved twenty paces more, again took
sight on a doe, and dropped her where she stood.
Again the others ceased to feed. While they did so I re-
mained still ; but soon they recommenced feeding, when
I again loaded my rifle. In a quarter of an hour I had
killed five still the herd remained undisturbed by my
presence. When I had just completed my loading for
a sixth shot, the survivors started as if suddenly alarmed,
closed up together, and earnestly gazed up to windward.
Between me and whatever had alarmed them the deer
stood, so that I could not discover what it was ; but I was
not long kept in ignorance. Suddenly they wheeled round,
and closely packed together, charged down wind, almost
galloping over me in their course. Well I knew there
was some reason for this sudden surprise. So as soon
as the deer had passed I looked up to windward, and
there saw, scarcely half-a-mile off, three mounted red-
skins following each other in Indian file. They were
not coming directly towards me, but their course, if
followed, would bring them close to where I had left my

A BRUSH WITH THE RED SKINS. 83

mare. That they had not heard the report of my rifle
or had any knowledge of my presence, I was perfectly
sure, for their pace was but a walk, and from their
manner I judged that they were conversing. If they
had been going at a more rapid pace than a walk, I
could not have reached my mare in time to get her
loose and mount before being perceived, and as I
retraced my steps I prayed inwardly that nothing would
occur to induce them to hurry.

I felt that life or death depended upon my success in
remaining concealed and using expedition, and seldom
did a man on hands and knees accomplish a similar
distance more expeditiously. My rifle so sadly ham-
pered me, that several times I almost resolved to leave
it behind ; yet to do so was to part with a friend whose
aid might be necessary to save me. If any one who
should chance to read this has ever traversed several
hundred yards on hands and knees, as rapidly as he
could accomplish it, he will remember the pain he suf-
fered in the performance. My hands, shins, and feet
ached as if they were surcharged with the most severe
rheumatic pains. Fifty yards only separated me now
from the mare. The Indians were quite four hundred
yards off, when my animal becoming aware of my pre-
sence, neighed. I hoped that the sound had not reached
the red-skins ; but in this I was mistaken, for they
halted for a moment, then broke into a trot, altering their
course directly to that from whence the sound pro-
ceeded. I dared not lose another moment, so I rose
and made a rush for my nag. In an instant I was per-
ceived, and a yell announced the fact. A sharp pull at

84 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

the lariat rope released the mare. Quick as thought I was
upon her back, when springing at once into a gallop,
she burst the bushes that surrounded her and flew over
the prairie at a pace which few but herself could go.
Finding that I was rapidly leaving my pursuers behind,
I gained my stirrups and took a pull upon her mouth
to steady her gait and moderate her pace. The whole
had been done so rapidly that I had previously no time
for thought not even for fear, if so disposed. The
danger I had just run had braced my nerves to such a
degree as to make me feel fit for anything. After going-
over a mile I found that my pursuers, although follow-
ing me, were doing so at a very moderate pace, so I
slackened mine to an easy canter.

It was well that the features of the country were so
well marked, for without hesitation as to direction, I
pushed in the right road for the camp. In my course
to it I had to ford a creek about twenty yards wide,
and very shallow. For fear of an ambush I selected
that portion of it where the brush seemed to grow in less
abundance. So shaking up my mare I dashed for it.
Half a dozen strides took her across ; but the moment
I got clear of the brittle water alkers, two mounted
Indians dashed at me. I feared the foremost would
succeed in seizing my bridle, or pulling me out of my
seat. But the mare's speed saved me ; two strides of
hers were equal to three of their ponies', and I won by
three or four yards. But as I shot past I saw the
scoundrel, already aware of his failure, drawing his
arrows for immediate service. I drew my Colt's revolver
and fired a quick shot at his naked chest For fifty

A BRUSH WITH THE RED SKINS. 85

yards his horse continued the pursuit, but the rider
could do no further mischief; the little life left him barely
enabled him to retain his seat for that distance, after
which he appeared to slide from it to the ground. I could
not pull up to enquire particulars ; but felt convinced
that the reason I had not been pursued by the first
party of Indians was that they knew that some of their
tribe were in the direction I was going, so that by
not hurrying me they gave a better chance to cut
me off.

My revolver, I am certain, saved my life. If I had
been without such a weapon, I should not have escaped,
for there is no doubt that my pursuers intended either
to kill or capture me. Still it was a dreadful thing to
think that I had slain a fellow-mortal the expression
of the face, the contortion of the body at the moment
my shot was delivered, haunted me, and I wished sin-
cerely it had not occurred. After all, it was a game
that both played at, life or death was the stake ; they
had been the challengers, not I, so if they had lost, let
them pay the forfeit. To argue thus was well enough ;
it satisfied the scruples of conscience for a moment, but
it did no more. When ten years older I regarded such
an affair with horror and antipathy.

On joining the waggons, which did not intend coral-
ling for a few miles further, I reported the matter. All
agreed not only that I had done right, but that to have
spared the red-skin would have been madness.

At camping time, we had approached so near to where
the deer had been killed, that with an escort and several
pack mules I returned to the place to bring them in ;

86 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

the scene was undisturbed, and the game still lay as it
had fallen.

These two exploits, the killing of so many deer and
escaping the Indians, gained me considerable reputa-
tion, which was proved by the marked difference in the
manner of my comrades towards me, who, although
never rude, evidently regarded me previously as a
greenhorn.

The same night considerable uneasiness was felt in
camp from the circumstance that our best hunter, and
possibly the most reckless of the whole train, had not
returned. From my having seen Indians, it was sur-
mised that they were in force in the vicinity, and that
he might have come in contact with them, and from his
foolhardiness met his death ; but about midnight he
joined us, his approach being notified by the loud tone
in which he was singing " Old Uncle Ned."

A hunter never leaves camp that he has not a story
to tell on his return. The yarn may be of constant
disappointment, of extraordinary success, or of an extra-
ordinary shot made, of Indians seen and circumvented
by strategy, or a race for life. In this instance, the per-
son who had caused so much uneasiness had a double
tale to tell. " Early, he had found buffalo, one of which
he had killed, and following them up, he killed another;
then he discovered a number of mustangs feeding in a
meadow. Knowing that this indicated the vicinity of
an Indian camp, he turned ; and after pursuing his route
homewards up a water course for some distance, he
halted among some bushes to discover if he was followed
For an hour or more he had remained thus hid, when he

A BRUSH WITH THE RED SKINS. 87

observed several Indians between him and his destina-
tion. Their manner was reassuring, as from it he was
convinced that they were not aware of his presence, so
he remained in concealment till an hour or two after
dark, when deeming that his course was clear, he started
for camp." My opinion on such matters is of no value ;
but the old hunter asserted that the red skins he had
seen were Pawnee-Soups, a large tribe whose head
quarters are upon the Pawnee Fork. They are a most
numerous and formidable tribe, hunt as far even as the
Camanche Country, and are seldom at peace with the
whites.

When we had accomplished about five miles on the
following day, the train was brought to a halt by the
appearance of over a hundred mounted Indians, the
foremost of whom held aloft on a pole a dirty piece of
white rag. This was a signal of peace, and expressive
of a desire to trade; so a halt was called, and the
waggons coralled, while a dozen of our best mounted
men, armed to the teeth, went out to have a palaver
with them.

Bonte, in selecting his escort, was kind enough to
choose me as one, a compliment doubtless resulting
from my rencontre of yesterday, and which I highly
appreciated, as it afforded me an early opportunity of
becoming acquainted with the aborigines in their native
state, not as those drunken debased wretches who live
within civilization, who were the only specimens of the
race I had hitherto seen, and who were as unlike the
true Indian of the plain as it is possible to imagine.

When four or five hundred yards from our camp they

88 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

halted. We then advanced towards them, each man
having received instruction to have his weapons ready
in case of treachery, although it was not very likely on
this occasion, as our force was far too numerous to leave
them much hope of attempting it with success.

When we were separated by a little over a hundred
yards, we also halted for some minutes. Then Bonte,
with an escort of two men experienced in Indian affairs,
A^ent to the front. From our visitors' ranks, a similar
number detached themselves, and the representatives of
each side approached each other. Having dismounted,
all sat down, forming a small circle, with their faces in-
wards. Long was the pow-wow that ensued. At its
termination, a pipe was produced, and each took from it
two or three puffs, passing it immediately to his neigh-
bour.

This ceremony was indicative of their pacific inten-
tions to visit our camp. After the pow-wow broke up,
we returned to our coral, where our guests were expected
to visit us in an hour. The point was settled that they
were Pawnees, but they professed to know nothing of
the Indians who had pursued me yesterday.

When the hour expired, they came ; but only a few
of the chiefs were permitted to come inside the coral.
I examined them all closely, but in no particular were
they painted like the one upon whom I had drawn my
pistol. When the Pawnees were informed of the affair,
they said my pursuers must have been Camanche, a
most blood-thirsty tribe a large number of whom had
been hunting in their vicinity.

Our chief, or familiarly speaking, " Boss," seemed to

A BRUSH WITH THE RED SKINS. 89

know a great number of the strangers, and not only did
he call them by name, but appeared to speak their dia-
lect with fluency. This ceased to surprise me when I
was informed by one of our people that he had for some
time resided among this tribe, and had been regarded
by them as a chief.

By sunset all the Indians left our camp, having been
informed before their departure that our sentries would
be set as usual, as strange Indians were in the very
neighbourhood ; therefore, not to run the risk of being
shot, they must not venture to come near our camp till
after sunrise on the morrow.

An Indian may make peace with you to-day, and to-
morrow, without a why or a wherefore, think fit to break
it. In the evening he may smoke and drink with you
over a camp fire, and before daybreak may lead a party
of young braves to attempt a stampede of your cattle.
However much the laws of civilised society may repro-
bate such conduct, the red-man considers it perfectly
fair, and would express no surprise if you retaliated
upon him by pursuing a similar course. Might is truly
right with them ; and when any opportunity to act on
the same principle is omitted, they do not attribute it to
the possession of a higher one, but to some disability of
which they are unaware.

However, the night passed without an alarm.

CHAPTER X.

A JEALOUS WIFE.

NEXT day, we were inundated with visitors, for every
brave seemed to possess one or two squaws, and they
in all their finery of brilliant coloured blankets and
innumerable glass beads accompanied their liege lords.

This was a gala day for Madame Bonte. Mounted
on her best mustang, and clothed in her most gorgeous
apparel, she was to be seen curvetting about in every
part of the camp where she could attract observation.
For a squaw, she was certainly very pretty, and her
stock of gewgaws was almost inexhaustible. Soon
after daybreak she was on the move ; but, as the hour
for the arrival of the Pawnees approached, she appeared
as if she could scarcely restrain her impatience for their
arrival.

Vanity, nothing more, was the cause of this. The
admiration of white men to her was nothing to the
pleasure she derived from exciting the envy of her red-
skinned sisters.

Is not this like women all over the world ? Would
they not sooner display their grandeur in their own
village church, or among those that know them, than
before strangers?

Our orders were as yesterday, that none except some
half-dozen chiefs were to be admitted inside the coral ;
that, therefore, all trading that the teamsters might wish

A JEALOUS WIFE. 9 1

to carry on, must be conducted outside ; and that if any
disturbance took place, all were to retire behind the
waggons and take their arms, endeavouring if possible
to make prisoners of the chiefs, to be held as hostages.

But such a course was not likely to be necessary ; for
when Indians bring their women with them, they do not
generally intend to be guilty of treachery.

Before eight o'clock, the ground around us had the
appearance of a fair, and utmost good nature prevailed
among our visitors.

Beyond a few tanned hides fit for making leggings
and moccasins, and some worthless worn-out ponies,
they appeared to have nothing to trade with, still these
were purchased in exchange for tobacco, beads, &c.

Bonte, I must say, was extremely liberal ; over a
hundred dollars' worth of different treasures, such as
beads, needles, &c., which the red man particularly
values, were given away. For these gifts they expressed
unbounded gratitude. Still they kept craving for gun-
powder and rum.

The former was peremptorily refused, but a small
quantity of the latter was doled out to the leading men.

To see the avidity with which they seized the glass,
the grimaces they made as they put it to their mouths,
the length of time they held it there before swallowing
was ludicrous and disgusting. The last habit showed
what confirmed drunkards they would become if they
had the opportunity.

Their proud bearing and manly look soon leave them
when they have tasted spirits, and they become sub-
servient, obsequious, and cringing, endeavouring by

Q2 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

their fawning to obtain more, and when these means
fail, they sometimes resort to insolence, if they do not
show an inclination to take it by force.

An Indian has been often known to barter the results
of a year's toil, in the shape of the furs he had collected
in that period, to gratify his passion for drink; and
when the supply is exhausted, more must be obtained at
any price ; his horse goes next, then in detail follows his
arms, without which he cannot procure food to support
his children, wife, and self, and not unfrequently even
his squaw, if she is young and attractive, is bartered for
a final pint of the debasing spirit.

Here none were served with more than a wine glass-
full, still such scenes as I have narrated above, would
have been enacted with the slightest encouragement.
But the experienced trader knows well he has to be
guarded how he takes advantage of the weakness of the
Indian ; for if he has not a sufficient force to support
him against attack, the Indians, stimulated into perfect
recklessness from a desire to gratify their craving, will
not improbably massacre him and all his followers.

So far all had gone most harmoniously. Madame
Bonte had been admired, but not sufficiently to gratify
her pride ; therefore she had changed her exhausted
horse for a new one. This was a cocky little pie-bald
in the finest condition. As she came forth, her steed
curvetting with anxiety to show his speed, while she sat
with that easy grace and light hand, that denoted how
well she knew how to manage him.

A shout from the assembled crowd greeted her
appearance. Rising in her stirrup she waved her hand,

A JEALOUS WIFE. 93

then giving her pony a loose head, scoured away over
the prairie at racing pace.

While Bonte* and the assembly were gazing after the
adventurous beauty, a squaw had entered the crowd
that surrounded the camp ; she was accompanied by a
half-bred boy about twelve or thirteen years of age.
They rode mustangs, low in flesh, and apparently much
neglected ; and the apparel of the riders showed that
they had done duty for a longer period than even
Indians usually exact from their garments.

A rasping jump which madame had just accom-
plished over a land crack twelve feet wide, produced a
shout of applause from all, not unaccompanied by a
due demonstration of approbation from her husband,
evinced by a prolonged clapping of his hands. While
he was thus engaged he was touched upon the shoulder
by the unknown squaw turning round he started,
changed colour, and spoke some words in Indian. An
onlooker could not fail to see at once that they had met
before on terms of peculiar intimacy. Yet Bonte showed
no desire to renew the acquaintance ; for that hard, vin-
dictive, cruel look, indicative of his rising wrath, settled
upon his face. This recognition was unwelcome, as the
woman evidently perceived ; and although she still con-
fronted him, it was with a manner nervous in the ex-
treme. When he addressed her again, his intonation was
sufficient to express his feeling of repulsion. In answer
she turned, and called the boy. On him Bonte" gazed
long and earnestly, then finally resumed his usual ex-
pression. The lad approaching him, dismounted, and
Bonte placed his hand upon his head. A murmur went

94 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

round the bystanders, who recognised that it was his
son. I had already made the same discovery. Turn-
ing upon his heels, Bonte disappeared into his waggon,
followed by his two visitors. In half an hour they
came forth, the woman loaded with the treasures dear
to her race. Assisted by her boy she mounted her
mustang, and both started for their encampment. But
a storm was brewing for our leader: Madame Bonte had
observed what had occurred. Her woman's jealousy
had been roused, and, Indian as she was, she would not
have a rival in her lord's affections. In an instant her
quick eye detected the mother and child, and with an
impetuosity that made arrest impossible, she dashed
across the prairie after them. A hundred paces before
she reached them, the quick patter of her horse's hoofs
announced her approach.

I saw the sharp-eyed youngster turn in his saddle to
observe her, then inform his mother of her advance ;
but the warning was scarcely given when, with a
screech, she charged upon them, and with the violence
of her onset threw the mother from her horse. The
boy in an instant attacked the assailant with both tooth
and claw. Being certain that an encounter was immi-
nent, we had all hurried forth to prevent it; but al-
though the utmost expedition was used, before we
could reach the scene of the conflict the unlucky
mother had had her clothing almost torn from her.
Madame Bonte herself had not come off scatheless;
for the young half-breed had done his work so well,
that the prairie was scattered with her much-beloved
beads and ornaments. At first, among the rough

A JEALOUS WIFE. 95

teamsters there was evinced a disposition to regard the
whole affair as a capital joke, and they would have
gone even so far as to permit the combatants to fight it
out ; but Bonte's intervention at once put an end to the
disgusting spectacle. He grasped his partner round
the waist, and, lifting her with as much ease as if she
been a child, carried her off, struggling and using every
effort to escape. It is almost needless to add that no
more was seen of this lady for the remainder of the
day. The intervention of the master produced on their
behalf an officious display of pity for the mother and
child, and every one gave a helping hand either to
catch their ponies, or to gather up the sundry valuables
which lay scattered on the grass. If the poor woman
had not received any bodily injury from her fall, and
the rough handling that she had received, I have little
doubt that she had become richer through the malice of
her rival ; for no distinction was made as to whom the
effects belonged that were gathered together, but all
were handed over to her. Soon afterwards she and
her son disappeared behind a swell in the prairie.

Fortunately this little episode did not interrupt the
harmony of the meeting. The Indians seemed to re-
gard it as a good joke, and to think their country-
woman was well repaid for the ill-usage she had suffered.

It is not customary for squaws to display this jealousy
and vindictiveness of disposition toward a rival, for very
few Indians that can support two or more wives do not
have them ; but Madame Bonte had lived in civilised
society, and, having witnessed the ways of white people,
wished to imitate them.

g6 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

The Indians departed at sunset the strictest watch
was kept all night for, as I have said, their promises
are not to be relied on ; but on this occasion they did
not evince the slightest desire to play us false. At an
earlier hour than usual next morning we prepared to
start on our journey. The mules were harnessed and
the horses saddled, when the young half-breed, whose
acquaintance we had made yesterday, galloped into
camp. Pushing his way through the crowd, he went to
Bonte's waggon. The master was not yet up, but the
lad was not refused admission. Soon after he re-
appeared, completely Europeanised in his costume, and
we learned that he was to be attached to the train, and
to be made useful in such capacities as his youthful
years and strength would permit. Although he could
not speak a word of English he soon became a general
favourite, for he was apt, good-natured, and obliging.
He was so wonderfully skilful as a horseman, that
I doubt if any animal could have thrown him. It soon
became evident that he was a great favourite with his
father, for he was constantly in attendance upon him :
yet there was no appearance of his being over-indulged.
But Madame Bonte took no pains to show her detesta-
tion of the child. She seized with avidity every oppor-
tunity to heap abuse upon him, but the boy did not
regard her, merely avoiding her presence when it was
possible to do so. I suppose his mother had taught
him what to expect and how to behave, and so well he
had learned his lesson, that he gained every one's sym-
pathy. We had travelled at our usual rate fifteen
miles a day, or thereabouts for a week, and the only

A JEALOUS WIFE. 97

observable difference in the country we traversed was
that boulders became more numerous, and grass less
abundant, rock plants and other typical vegetable pro-
ducts indicating our approach to the south.

The camp had been made secure one evening, after
a day more tedious than usual, for several water-courses
had had to be passed with precipitous sides that re-
quired cutting away, so that it was dark before our
labours ceased. As we were now well in a country
that the Camanche Indians frequented in summer,,
Bonte thought proper to explain to his followers
around the camp fires their different methods of attack,,
and how best to avoid them. While he was thus en-
gaged his son approached. Observing the lad, he
called him to his side, and whispered something in his
ear. The boy, with that pleasant, good-natured smile
that he ever wore, left the circle and proceeded to his
father's waggon, as if to perform a message.

In this there was nothing unusual, so the circumstance
was for the time forgotten, and all continued listening
to our leader's account of the experiences he had gained
when crossing this debateable ground on previous occa-
sions. Although Bonte was not a favourite among his
followers, they were well aware of his superior know-
ledge, as he had seen much more of life upon the plains,
than they had.

A tale had been commenced which promised to be of
unusual interest, when a scream from Bonte's waggon
was heard. In a moment all rushed forth to ascertain
the cause ; when we reached the waggon Bonte alone

entered, although from the interior came the sounds of

98 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

a violent struggle. A few moments after the boy
jumped out with tears in his eyes, his face scratched, and
his clothes in disorder ; soon after Bonte followed carry-
ing the struggling, resisting form of his wife. At first
he was for tying her hands and feet together, and making
her, thus bound, sleep under the waggon ; but our inter-
cession, and possibly a feeling of pity, induced him to
overlook her offence, and pardon her for the time. On
being let go she slunk back to her retreat, certainly
humbled, but not subdued.

Bonte explained that he had sent the lad for his
pipe, when the jealous termagant had attacked him
and would doubtless have killed him if assistance had
not come. He declared he was resolved to put up with
no more of her nonsense, and that if she could not con-
duct herself properly in future he would turn her adrift
among the first Indians they met, or failing that, leave
her in Mexico.

Poor madame had no children, so like many other
women, she hated the offspring of a rival.

The youth, whom we had christened mustang, from
his love for these animals, and the ability with which he
managed them, had been sorely punished, so severely
that little doubt was left that his assailant intended kill-
ing him ; but youth soon forgets injured feelings, and
more rapidly still recovers from a bruised body; thus in a
few days none could have told how he had suffered.

Some days after this escapade I left the waggons
with Serge to hunt immediately after the teams had
commenced their march. Our course was to be west by
south.

A JEALOUS WIFE. 99

From the scarcity of fresh food in camp we resolved
that in case we did not find game we should continue to
search for it till nightfall, unless some unexpected occur-
rence should force us to return earlier.

Soon after our departure we saw antelopes, but they
were so wild that all our efforts to come within range
of them were futile. That these animals had been
harassed by hunters was evident from their wariness.
Knowing that it was highly improbable that we should
find white men in this locality, and that the Indians
were all hostile, we each kept an extremely sharp look
out.

At length a solitary antelope was observed feeding.
Within a short distance of its position was a ravine,
down the centre of which flowed a diminutive stream.
Changing our course, and taking advantage of some
uneven ground, we gained the margin of the water.
After we had done so I dismounted, left my horse with
Serge, and ascended to the level of the prairie, a few
hundred yards further up than where we had quitted it,
to ascertain if my quarry had remained unconscious of
my presence, as the trifling breeze was far from
favourable.

The antelope was there, it had only shifted its position
while grazing ; so marking as well as I could the dis-
tance between me and it, I descended the banks of the
rivulet and joined my companion. By a rough estimate,
and making allowances for the bends in our route, I cal-
culated that we had nearly a third of a mile to go before
we could come within shooting distance.

Serge led my mare, for she I rode that day, while I

IOO TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

walked the requisite distance, then ascended the banks
and again reconnoitered. The game had so much
shifted its place that now it was beyond gunshot from
where I was, but instead of going out further into the
prairie it had moved parallel with the margin of the
water course. In consequence we walked about a
hundred and fifty yards further, when being fully confi-
dent that the antelope was within shot, Serge dis-
mounted, he being a better shot at long range than my-
self, and I remained in charge of the horses.

At this place the banks were higher and more pre-
cipitous than previously, so it took Serge some minutes
to gain their edge. At length the report of his rifle
greeted my ears, and he disappeared. For nearly a
quarter of an hour he was absent ; I was commencing to
feel extremely anxious for his return, when he appeared
over the brow of the ravine and launched the game down
its steep sides, hurriedly following in the same route.
In a few minutes he had the antelope secured to the
crutch of my saddle, and then he informed me that he
had seen, some distance to our left, and not above a mile
from where we first struck the water course, either
Indians or something very much resembling them. I
knew from his manner that it was the former, and that
he had framed his words so as not to cause alarm.

Riding in the water so as to leave no track, we hurried
up the stream for about half a mile, and were just on the
point of leaving it to make for camp when we observed
the track of several horses, all of which were unshod,
and thus doubtless carried Indians. These footmarks
could not have been more than a quarter of an hour old

A JEALOUS WIFE. IOI

for the sides of many were still falling in. Selecting the
path that they had evidently used to ascend, we reached
within a few feet of the summit, and both scanned the
country before us, but not a soul was to be seen ; then
cautiously gaining the more elevated ground we made
a fresh examination of the country in our rear, and at
the distance of about a mile two parties of Indians of
about equal numbers could be distinctly descried. The
start we had was sufficient to secure our safety if they
should pursue us ; but it was extremely doubtful if they
were aware of our presence, for they were following
each other in the habitual Indian file.

Gaining a roll in the prairie, we rode sufficiently down
it to be out of sight ; then returning so as to look over
its brow, without exposing ourselves to observation, we
found that all were pushing towards the watercourse
we had just left at a sharp gallop.

There were eleven of them, only two of us ; still
Serge wished to persuade me to remain where we were
and fight them. True, we each had a rifle and a revolver,
and these might have sufficed, no doubt, if we had been
hemmed in, to force a passage, even through a much
greater number ; but as escape was open to us without
an encounter, I preferred flight, and induced him, not
without demur, to consent to it.

Riding up the acclivity of the swell, when we reached
the summit, we perceived several more Indians at
right angles to our route. Fortunately we had adopted
the prudent course of flight ; for if these had not heard
the report of our firearms, they, doubtless, in the rarified
atmosphere, would have observed the puffs of smoke,

IO2 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

and surmising the cause have hastened to the rescue of

their comrades.

Soon after the welcome white covers of our waggons

were seen, so we moderated our pace, knowing full well

that we were now within the reach of assistance. By

the time we reached the train, the other hunters had also
. returned. They had seen plenty of game, and in spite

of their wildness had succeeded in killing five antelopes.

They had found Indian trails numerous in all directions,
one indication of a very large party, but they had not

seen any of the persons by whom they had been made.
At sunset we .were joined by a solitary white man,
whose appearance plainly told that he had been long
subsisting upon the shortest commons, but his arms
looked bright, and in fit state for any emergency. The
horse he bestrode, a large powerful bay, low in flesh and
somewhat tender in his feet, from constant work without
being shod, was a splendidly made animal, and when in
condition must have been able for any ordinary weight.
He stated that he had left a train of fourteen waggons
ten days previously, through a quarrel with the head
man, and was trying to make his way to Missouri.
For the last four or five days he had never been out of
sight of Indians, and had thus been compelled to travel
principally by night, and, to prevent discovery, had
been obliged to desist from shooting the game that was
thrown in his way. One evening he had nearly been
discovered, for starting earlier than usual he observed,
happily before he was seen, a camp of eight lodges.

As Bonte had predicted, the Camanches were the tribe
that were now hunting in this debateable land, and in their

A JEALOUS WIFE. 1 03

hands the life of a white man was not worth an hour's
purchase. The newly arrived looked a useful man, and
moreover a bold and reckless one. His late exploit
not only proved him to be so, but also to be acquainted
with the Indians in all their moves. As among our
ranks there were a great many green hands, and our
numbers were not in excess of the work required of us,
the stranger was engaged in spite of his having deserted
his late employer. He was known by several of our
older hands, and represented to be a first-class hunter, a
good teamster, a jovial companion, and an out-and-
outer at an Indian fight. That he possessed all these
requirements could scarcely be doubted, for a more
fearless, reckless, good-tempered looking six feet of
humanity it would be hard to find.

I was told he was a thorough type of a class which,
twenty years ago, was common on the frontier, but
which has lately much diminished in numbers men
who were ever ready to stake their last dollar on a turn
of the cards, or risk their lives in an Indian fight, how-
ever great might be the odds.

Serge would fain have bought his horse, my admira-
tion of the animal having doubtless made my friend
partial to it ; but although he offered one hundred and
fifty dollars down, a very long sum here, it was politely
but positively declined.

" No, no," said our new friend ; " although I ha'nt got
a dime to call my own, I won't part with Dannel. I
got him from Old Kentucky, where he was bred by my
uncle, when he was a four year old. He's carried me
for five, that makes him nine, and he's as good now

104 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

yes, and better than he was the day I first mounted
him, except that he's somewhat battered, but a week
will put him all straight. His match can't be found
nowhere at a quarter race, or to go a distance. He's a
fortune to an enterprising young man in the settlements,
he jist is. One who had cut his eye teeth could make
a good living out of him ; and for the Indian country,
wall, you may travel from Mexico to Missouri, and you
can't find his superior. He aint no darn'd fool ; no
plaguey Indian can stampede him, I'll tell you, for if
they drive him a mile off, he'd come back the very
minute he heard my whistle. I'd just as soon turn him
loose as not. Well, you may scarce credit me," turn-
ing toward us, "for you see you are strangers, and don't
know Dannel."

Upon this he untied the horse, and removing one of
the waggon poles to make an opening for him, gave
him a slap on the rump. The horse trotted out on the
prairie, and ten minutes afterwards he whistled, and
true enough the well-trained animal returned and
placed his muzzle upon his master's shoulder.

Nothing but kindness could have produced so good
an understanding between owner and beast, so that the
stranger became a favourite, for it was evident that he
must have a good heart.

CHAPTER XL

A TRAGEDY.

NEXT day, about 9 a.m., we were joined by several
Indians, the most miserable specimens of the red-man
I had yet seen. Their clothing was of the most filthy
and ragged description imaginable, many even being
naked from the waist upwards. Their head covering
was limited to a conspicuous scalp-lock, into which were
twisted several feathers. Their features were fearfully
forbidding ; retreating foreheads, with remarkably high
cheek bones, being the principal characteristics. Very
few of them exceeded the height of five feet four inches,
and when dismounted their gait was a hobble, not a
walk. The most diminutive specimens of calves ever
seen on Newmarket Heath might be deemed princely
in size in comparison with theirs. I doubt if there was
the slightest alteration in the fulness of the leg where
the calf is usually found. As I have said their walk was
a shuffle, and evidently subjected them to such incon-
venience that two miles in an hour would have been a
performance far beyond their powers. But awkward
and ungainly as they looked upon foot, the moment
they were across their horses, the observer was struck
with astonishment and admiration at the wonderful
revolution their powers had undergone. Every move-
ment of their body was now the perfection of grace, and
whether their horses reared, plunged, or bucked, or made

IO6 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

any other effort to unseat their riders, such attempts
were simply wasted.

None of our people understood a word these Indians
spoke, for they belonged to the redoubtable Camanche
tribe, who prided themselves in holding little or no
intercourse with white men. In fact, like the Badowin,
their hand is against every man, and as may be expected,
every man's hand is against them.

They did not long honour us with their presence ; in
fact, I suppose they had come on a species of recon-
naissance to discover our numbers, to learn if we were
likely to make a good fight, and if our beasts were worth
running the risk of making a night attack for. Their
decision, of course, we did not know then. They bid us
ban voyage, in evident good temper, but we knew not
whether the words were intended as a threat of future
warfare or spoken in irony.

Bonte, as was his habit among the Indians, displayed
his usual liberality; consequently, beads and tobacco
were freely distributed among them, and if these pre-
sents had the usual effect of making the heart of the
Indian glad, then they should have been supremely
happy.

I could not help having a good look at their horses
previous to mounting, for it was currently reported that
the Camancha think nothing of a forced march of a
hundred miles in twenty-four hours without doing their
steeds injury, and without a protracted halt during its
performance ; but it must be remembered that few of
these men exceed nine stones in weight, and that they
ride without saddles or accoutrements. With the excep-

A TRAGEDY. I 07

tion of one animal, that bestrode by him we took for the
chief, the height of their horses was rather over than under
fourteen hands ! Although in this respect they resembled
the Cossack horse of the Ukrane, in others they looked
far better bred, and they appeared to have quite as much
bone. Of course, these were all mustangs, but there are
two distinct races of mustangs found upon the plains of
Mexico and Texas, as I have been informed by those
who have spent their lives in the countries just men-
tioned, both are equally hardy and enduring, but the
one far exceeds the other in speed. All American wild
horses are supposed to be descended from the French
and Spanish breeds, the swifter animals doubtless being
descended from the former. The range of this breed is
further to the eastward than that of the other, for while
Spain held Mexico and Texas, France had Louisiana.
And as the favourite French saddle horse of two cen-
turies ago was that race which at this date looks like a
pure bred Arab, the back de Horas, I am inclined to
believe that the eastern mustangs owe their greater
speed to superior breeding. We could not mount
cavalry on such horses, for we could not find men of
such diminutive weight and stature to make a corps,
and if we did, they would be unwilling to go without
accoutrements, packs, great-coats, &c., thus overweight-
ing these hardy little horses ; otherwise, their importa-
tion into England might be desirable.

But although fit to mount light cavalry upon, by
judicious crossing they might much improve our race
of hackneys and light harness horses.

But dismissing the mustangs, I would say a word

I08 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

upon the mare that carried the chief of the party.
Although low in flesh, she nevertheless was a great
beauty, and looked every inch like a dam who would
produce race-horses, and probably she had been one
herself when a three-year-old. To describe her points
is unnecessary, for the majority of my countrymen know
what constitutes such an animal. But how did she come
into the possession of this people ? Stolen from the
settlements, or from explorers, travellers, or traders
crossing the plains ? This mare's life, if it could have
been written, would doubtless have been worth reading,
for in her time she must have gone through many strange
scenes in the stages between being the pampered pet of
some wealthy Kentucky or Tennessee planter and the
favourite mount of a Camanche brave.

. Serge, who was standing by my elbow as the red-man
passed, heard me express my admiration of her, so
hurrying for his horse, he followed the red-man, hoping
to induce the owner of the mare to part with her, but all
his pantomimic gestures were in vain, and the sight of
the gold he exhibited to them was thrown away, for an
Indian knows a good horse when he has it, and unless for
whiskey, he can very seldom be induced to part with it.
It was evident, from the manner of our late visitors,
that they wished to impress us with the belief that we
had nothing to fear from them, and thus induce us to
relax our precautions against treachery or night sur-
prise ; but in this they were very much mistaken, for
Bonte and many of our hands were far too experienced
to be lulled into such feelings of security as to relax
our guard.

A TRAGEDY. IOQ

After the late storm, the weather had become charm-
ing, the only objection to it being the heat in the
middle of the day ; consequently the watch-fires were
better and longer attended than previously. The night
the Camanche visitors left us, none seemed disposed to
retire ; first a trapper told a story, then a teamster in-
formed us that that yarn reminded him of something
similar, and another long narrative followed. All en-
joyed such stories, which were invariably full of adven-
ture and hairbreadth escapes.

One or two of the sleepy heads had proposed ad-
journing, and were about to do so, when Bonte, who
had been round the sentries, joined our coterie. He
was only in time to hear the termination of the last
story, which wound up with a most miraculous escape,
when he volunteered to tell us of an Indian fight he
had been in, not over a few miles from where we were
now encamped. Such a proposal coming from "the
Boss " awakened up the interest of all ; so, seldom had
orator a more attentive audience.

Bonte went on to state that he had been living with
the Pawnees, and that they had come down to this
neighbourhood to hunt, and also to steal horses from
any other tribe they might be thrown in contact with.
In their first object they had been perfectly successful ;
in the other they had no chance, not having fallen in
with any other Indians. A council of war was con-
sequently held whether they should not shift their
quarters so far south as to be on the confines of some
of the villages of North Mexico, where horses were

1 IO TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

abundant, and seldom so carefully guarded as those of
the Indians.

The arguments for and against this move were at
their height for you must know that, although a chief
is always recognised by a tribe, or even a hunting party,
few steps are taken without consulting all when a
young brave rushed in among them, indicating by his
manner that he had news of such urgency as to de-
mand immediate delivery. So the debate was deferred,
and the messenger permitted to speak. He had been
hunting antelope some distance to the westward, when
suddenly he had discovered several hundred mustangs
feeding in a meadow. Carefully sheltering himself
among the chaparal, he searched for the encampment
to which they belonged, and at length succeeded in
finding it. Remaining in sight of it, he carefully
watched everything that occurred in its vicinity. About
four in the afternoon a solitary Indian arrived, his horse
was marked with sweat, and otherwise indicated that he
had performed a long and severe journey. Half an
hour afterwards he left, accompanied by about forty of
the tribe, and in the belief of the observer these were
all the braves that the village contained. Thus a
chance, such as seldom occurs, was offered us to ob-
tain the desired horses. A few questions were asked
our informant, and were at once satisfactorily answered,
when, without further delay, we started on the adven-
ture. The night was dark and blustering, just such an
evening as we would have chosen for our purpose.
When we reached the scene of operations, six or seven
of the young men were told off to carry out the stam-

A TRAGEDY. I I I

pede, while the rest of our force, about thirty in num-
ber, as soon as this was effected, were to dash in behind
the frightened animals, and, adding to their alarm,
drive them off towards our camp. In those days the
Pawnees were three times as numerous as now, and if
not the largest, were certainly the most fearless and
most reckless tribe of Indians, their braves being known
to penetrate into the heart of the tribes most hostile to
them.

After we had waited in utter silence for half an hour,
the welcome shouts announcing that the stampede had
been effected reached our ears; a moment afterwards
we heard the sound of hundreds of hoofs approaching
us. Opening our ranks to let the troops pass through,
we closed in their rear, and with whip, spur, and shout,
drove them at their utmost across the plain to our
encampment. It was soon reached, but here we could
no longer remain in safety ; so our lodges were struck
without delay, and we hurried off upon our back track,
such expedition being used, that twenty miles had been
traversed from our last halting-place when the sun rose.
Resting for an hour, we continued our forced march,
not considering ourselves safe till at least a hundred
and fifty miles intervened between us and the scene of
our depredation.

To accomplish this took us several days of unremitt-
ing toil, and it is not to be wondered at, that all felt
worn out. Conscious of security, every one threw him-
self down to rest, neglecting the precaution of setting
sentries. But the Camanche, a branch of the very tribe
that visited us to-day, had followed us, and taking

I I 2 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

advantage of our defenceless state, dashed in among us,
and not only recaptured their own cattle, but took ours
as well. By the time our men had seized their
weapons to put themselves on the defensive, the shouts
and jeers of the successful raiders hurrying forward
their prizes could be heard a mile off over the prairie.
And narey one of them horses did we see again, and
better still, had to foot it the whole way to the Pawnee
Fork, and most got starved in doing it.

This story, similar to numbers that are told by those
who are experienced in life upon the plains, was
scarcely finished when a wild scream of pain rung
through the camp. In a moment all were on their feet
and dashing off in the direction from where it had
emanated. In our course we passed the Indian boy,
coming in the reverse direction ; no attention was paid
to this, for the child might have been frightened, and
have been running away from the object that had
excited his alarm. When we gained the spot from
which the cry had proceeded, we found beside a half-
burnt out fire two figures ; one lay writhing with pain,
another close by reclined on his elbow, and in no way
offered to assist the sufferer.

A lantern was soon procured, and to the surprise of
all, Madame Bonte was found to be the sufferer. At
first she could not or would not speak, and grave
suspicions were entertained that her companion, a half-
breed, who through his sullen and revengeful disposition
had made himself disliked by all, was the perpetrator of
the outrage.

The click of many a pistol or rifle lock must have

A TRAGEDY. 113

been ominous to his ear that if he attempted to rise or
leave his present resting-place he would have done so
with small chance of his life. At length the confusion
somewhat subsided, and the half-breed was questioned
how the squaw had been stabbed ; his response was
brief and to the point.

" He and the boy had been sitting together when
madame had joined them. For a supposed insult, soon
after her arrival, she had beaten the boy. He had in-
terfered to stop the punishment. She then left them,
under the pretence of going to her own waggon, but
soon after returned with a stick and re-commenced be-
labouring the child, holding him by the hair so that he
was rendered incapable of resistance. I was about to
separate them," he continued, " when madame gave a
scream and fell down, releasing the boy, who im-
mediately ran off."

The poor squaw confirmed this story, except that she
gave it her own colouring, so that no doubt was left in
our minds that the boy had stabbed her.

A hasty examination soon showed that the wound
the unfortunate woman had received would be fatal ;
for the bowels protruded through an incision several
inches long. Never before had I witnessed such a
painful scene. By the flickering light a group of rough
but kind-hearted men gazed down upon the unfortunate
woman, each of whose respirations told how short a
time she had to live."

Bont6 despatched several persons to secure the
assassin, but so long a time had elapsed that they failed

in the attempt. The sentry reported having seen a

114 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

horse gallop past his post. The time accorded so
nearly with that at which we had met the boy, that
there was no doubt that it was he, and that he was now
miles out on the prairie, and so safe till daylight from
pursuit.

At sunrise the poor squaw died. There were none
who did not regret her, still all thought she had brought
her untimely fate upon herself.

The escape of the boy was deemed far better than his
capture, for the deed, however culpable, was committed
in self-defence.

His journey could be no short one, and his course
was beset on every hand by danger, dangers that few
mature and fully armed men would have attempted
alone.

CHAPTER XII.
A FIGHT WITH THE CAMANCHES.

Two nights after the events narrated in the last
chapter, we were encamped upon the edge of a wide
plain, which, although to the casual observer might
have appeared level and smooth, was, on close ex-
amination, found to be intersected with deep and
wide sand cracks; boulders large and numerous were
scattered on all sides, while a dense dwarf chaparal
brush, in patches, formed just such cover as would be
considered desirable by the sportsman to assist him
successfully to stalk the most wary descriptions of game.
But that we had had two long forced marches entirely
without water, a situation apparently so dangerous from
its exposure to attack from Indians, would not have
been selected ; but where we halted there was a large
pool abundantly fed by springs ; so our coralling in
this undesirable situation was more a matter of neces-
sity than of choice.

The death of the poor squaw, and the flight of the
lad, for whose safety we could not but feel anxious, not-
withstanding the rash act he had committed, seemed to
weigh heavily upon all of us, but of course particularly
on our chief ; for rough, passionate and stern as he was,
I believe he loved both as much as his nature would
permit him. However, his private grief did not prevent
him from attending to his duties, and under his own

I 1 6 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

supervision double sentries were set around the coral,
as soon as darkness set in ; his parting words of instruc-
tion to each were, to keep a sharp look-out, or some
would lose their scalp lock before morning.

About half-past ten the whole camp was alarmed by
two shots fired in quick succession. In a moment all
were under arms, but although we remained so for an
hour, no further warning of the presence of a foe was
given. Both the men who had discharged their rifles
asserted that they had not only heard a noise similar to
an Indian stealing through the brush, but that after
watching carefully the place from where the sound ap-
peared to emanate they distinctly made out the crouch-
ing figure of a man. Doubtless our enemies finding us
on the qui vive had postponed their attack.

At midnight came my turn of duty. My post as
sentry was behind a stone, the base of which was
shrouded in tangled creepers. My companion and I
soon made a tolerably comfortable resting place, each
selecting a separate side of the rock, so that the ap-
proach to it on two sides was commanded. The night
was calm and starlit ; and but for the frogs, lizards, and
crickets, it would have been as quiet as death. Hour
flitted after hour till daybreak could not much longer
be delayed, when a prairie wolf howled in front of us,
and was answered by another on the left hand. These
howls were of such frequent occurrence that they did not
excite my attention. Again came another howl, to
which several answers were made. I felt my foot kicked
by my companion, a splendid specimen of the Mis-
sourian, who although not more than six or seven and

A FIGHT WITH THE CAMANCHES. I T 7

twenty, had spent at least half his life on the plains. I
bent towards him to ascertain the object of his warning,
and in a whisper he informed me that what I had sup-
posed to be the howl of prairie wolves, was an Indian
signal, and that I had better keep my eyes open.

I knew so well the character of the man that I felt
convinced he was right, so if possible I increased my
vigilance. Still nothing was seen, and I was beginning
to hope that we were to have a quiet termination to our
watch, when I saw, or thought I saw, a black man mov-
ing along the plain slowly, not over thirty paces from
our position. The longer I gazed the more firmly I
became convinced that what I saw was a man crouching
on all fours, and so was hesitating whether I should fire
or not, when again my comrade kicked me. At this
signal I was about to take aim on the suspicious object
when two kicks and a whisper, not to hurry, stopped
me. Again all was still, when my fellow sentry told me
sotto voce, " that he had spotted another, and we had
better both give them some lead." I saw the muzzle of
his rifle shoved forward, I advanced mine likewise,
covering the red-skin in front of me, but waited for my
companion to shoot before I pressed my trigger. For
some time there was a painful silence, such as you could
hear your heart beat in. At length the muzzle of my
friend's rifle seemed to come down slowly, but steadily,
almost to the level of the ground ; he was taking sight,
so I did likewise. Immediately afterwards the report of
his gun broke the echoes, followed by mine a moment
afterwards, but not sufficiently rapid to drown a shrill
scream ; such a cry as once heard is never to be for-

Il8 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

gotten, and tells but too plainly that a human being has
received his death wound. We reloaded as rapidly as
possible, but had scarcely got the powder in the barrels
when a fire of over a dozen rifles opened in our rear. Our
instructions were in such a case immediately to retire on
the main body, but this we could not safely do till we
had reloaded, nor could we be of any assistance to our
comrades with empty rifles. So sending down our
bullets as hurriedly as possible, we were about to leave
our cover when three Indians from the direction of the
camp passed us at the double without perceiving our
lurking place. The Missourian restrained my impatience
till they had got beyond us about ten paces, when he
exclaimed, " Now, Johnny Bull, give it them hot." We
both fired together, and two fell out of the three.

It was again necessary to load, before leaving our
shelter ; this was soon accomplished, when we made a
hurried but properly conducted retreat.

Our first fire had unquestionably saved our animals,
for several Indians had got inside our lines and had suc-
ceeded in untying the greater number of them. The
reports of our rifles had the double effect of causing all
our comrades to arm themselves, and the red-skins
within our lines who believed that they were discovered,
to make a rush to escape : hence the straggling fire that
we had heard. Until day broke we all remained under
arms, for now that the attempt to carry off our cattle had
failed, it was believed more than probable, especially if
the Indians were in force, that they would make a dash
upon us, and possibly by its suddenness, or by their
numerical superiority, cause us to capitulate or fight in

A FIGHT WITH THE CAMANCHES. 1 1 9

such a disorganised manner as would give them a better
opportunity to stampede the horses. The attempt was
not made, but if it had been there was not a man
amongst us that would not have resisted it to his last
breath.

There was no further alarm, but the hostility of the
Indians being established, every precaution was taken
against further attempts.

In searching the brush after breakfast we found five
dead Indians. One poor wretch shot through the back
had crawled several hundred yards after receiving his
death wound, his path being literally swamped with
blood.

I fired at the back of the Indian that I last shot, so
it was not improbable that I was his destroyer.

Our supply of fresh meat being exhausted, I deter-
mined to ride my mare, now fresh and in the hardest
condition, with the hope of killing some antelope. I
selected her because, as we were surrounded by hostile
Indians, it was very probable that I might have to ride
for my life. When I was about to start Serge wished to
join me, mounted on such a horse as he possessed ; I
would not hear of it, so he bid me good-by, and I left
the camp. Soon after I heard a voice hail me ; I turned
round to see from whom the challenge came. It was
Bontd ; I halted, and he immediately came up with me,
" Look here, Johnny Bull," he said, " you'd better stop
with the waggons, unless you want your hair riz. The
boys, I guess, can live on salt pork for a while, so there's
no need o' your going off to hunt."

"My mare can beat any mustang among the

I2O TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

Camanches I said, adding, " I won't go far at any rate,
but some venison would be an immense improvement to
our mess."

" So it would my young 'un, so luck go with you," and
Bonte turned round and left me.

I pushed on for several miles. Antelope were
abundant, but so wild that I could scarcely come within
a quarter of a mile of them good proof that the
Indians were out in force, and scattered all over the
country. By noon I found it would be useless to hunt
further, for I dare not leave my mare to make a stalk,
and without doing so I could not get close to game, so
I turned about to seek the waggons.

A long way off, I could see the white line that denoted
their whereabouts. The distance that severed me from
them might be about five miles. To keep the mare in
condition, and her breathing pipes clear, I gave her
head, and away she pushed, pulling me nearly on her
neck, from her anxiety to stretch her limbs. I com-
menced to feel as excited as herself, wishing a rasping
jump would come in our way, such as would pound
half a hunting field, when a yell was uttered from the
left and returned from the right, and almost before I
quite knew what it all was about, a number of red-skins,
in all the glory, of war-paint, were galloping at the
utmost speed of their horses one half coming up from
the one side, the other half from the other to intercept
my course. There was still room to get through them,
if I urged the mare. To do this or turn back were the
alternatives. I chose the former, so I gave her her
head, and touched her flanks with my heels, when she

A FIGHT WITH THE CAMANCHES. I 2 I

covered the ground like a greyhound. Her speed was
greater than I had anticipated, so that when I passed
between the two bodies of meeting Indians nearly a hun-
dred yards severed them. I was hesitating whether to fire
among those to the left, who were nearest. My revolver
was already in my hand to do so, and if I had done it
without dismounting a man or killing a rider, then I am
a worse shot than I suppose myself to be. But, no,
no blood-shedding again, I would have no more of, if I
could help it ; so I pushed my pistol back in the holster.
I had scarcely done so when I became aware that the
mare was shortening her stride. This caused me to
look forward having been occupied for the last few
minutes in watching my pursuers when before me I
noticed an earth-crack. From where I was it looked a
fearful chasm ; but turn back I could not, so go at it I
must. For the first time my mare learned that I had
spurs on. Giving her a slack rein, I rushed her at it,
at the hazard of her neck or my own, and without
hesitation, as I gave her a cheer to encourage her in the
effort, she cleared it like a deer.

I will not say that it was the widest jump ever made.
Lottery, Chandler, and Chanticleer all did much bigger
ones, and there are few hunting days in Leicestershire in
which broader are not accomplished ; but it was an
ugly place to come at, awkward on the side to be
lighted on, and, worse than all, totally unexpected.

Of course the Indians could not follow me, and if
previously I felt reticence at using my pistol, I felt
double pleasure now that I had not done so. But I
did not get off scatheless. An arrow lodged in my

122 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

shoulder, and as all my efforts to get it out were un-
availing I had to take it into camp. The trickling
blood that flowed from the wound I believe I was as
proud of as an Indian brave is of his first scalp.

" How wide was that jump ? " said a lot of
fellows that surrounded me, and wanted to know all
particulars.

" About fifteen feet," I answered.

" Bah ! any draft ox could do that. I thought it was
at least fifty," said one of our roughest specimens.

" You had better go and try," was my response ; and
angry words were nearly following, when several pro-
posed that I should get my jacket off, and the arrow
removed. The heads of the arrows of the Camanches,
with one of which I had been hit, are made of metal
and barbed in several places, so that the blade of a
knife had to be inserted to release their catches. How-
ever, the operation gave me little pain, and after its
removal the hemorrhage almost entirely ceased.

Adventures seemed to come to me on every side,
and none to Serge, for his occupation kept him ever
with the waggons. Like Charley O'Malley I must have
been a hero against my own will ; but after all this is
easily enough accounted for. As hunter I had to go in
advance it would have been useless to seek game in
our rear, for our passage had disturbed it, and more-
over, if any had been found and killed, what could be
done with it if not on or near our route ?

Our little French acquaintance, whom I have pre-
viously mentioned, informed me that he had a wonder-
ful liniment that cured all diseases, from lockjaw to

A FIGHT WITH THE CAMANCHES. 123

hydrophobia, and that he would be happy to apply it to
me. Believing that he was a thoroughly good fellow,
and that he would not have volunteered applying his
preparation unless he thought it would be beneficial,
I consented. Bowing gracefully he retired, and after
some minutes joined Serge and me, who were enjoying
that solace to many mortal ills tobacco.

" Gentlemen, I have brought my medicine. It will
do you good very much good," he said, and continued,
" it is my duty as a Christian gentleman to do good.
It affords me much pleasure to do good, and I will doctor
you and soon make you very well. But remember, Mon-
sieur," addressing himself specially to me, " it is for an in-
dividual Englishman I do this for one person, not for the
nation. Remember what I say ; for the English peoples
I hate. They imprison the Emperor they make war
with France, and I am a French soldat. Yes, monsieur,
I hope my medicine will do you good very much good.
But remember what I say, it is for you, not your
peoples I do it. For ever I am the enemy of your
country."

This tirade over, the good little major the enemy
until death of my country applied his liniment to my
shoulder with a delicacy that would have done credit to
the tapering delicate fingers of a sister or sweetheart.

After the Frenchman's back was turned, we could not
help laughing at the trouble he took, and the vehemence
he showed in letting me know that the service he per-
formed was to the individual, not to the nationality to
which he belonged.

After searching for game unsuccessfully for several

124 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

hours, I rejoined the waggons. It was when they were
having a temporary halt before crossing a stream that
was enclosed between rather precipitous banks, in con-
sequence of which, pick-axes and shovels had to be
brought into play to make the descent and ascent more
accessible. For an hour all available hands had thus been
employed, when a large force of Indians was discovered
in our rear. Though numerically they far outnumbered
ourselves, still we did not dread an attack from them,
for well they must now be aware of the superiority of
our arms and of our determination to fight, if called
upon, to the bitter end.

Thus, as our foes kept at a respectful distance, our
labours were continued till completed.

Soon after, a dozen of our waggons crossed success-
fully, but the thirteenth, that unlucky number, stuck so
hard and fast that all the exertions of the teamster were
futile. Again and again his whip cracked, and from his
mouth he hurled words of encouragement and reproach,
but all was unavailing, either the mules would not or
could not start the waggon.

A pair of strong animals from another team were
therefore unhitched, brought down to the waggon in
distress, and made fast before the leaders. Whip crack-
ing, shouts and yells ensued, still all their exertions,
which appeared heartily given, but certainly not in
concert, were unavailing, so the unfortunate waggon
remained where it was. The wheels on the off-side had
sunk so deep that it looked as if an upset was inevitable,
so nothing could be done but dig them out. So a dozen
stalwart fellows rushed into the stream, shovel in hand,

A FIGHT WITH THE CAMANCHES. 125

to effect this purpose; and soon would it have been
accomplished, judging by their energy, when a shout
was raised of Indians in front.

The men in the stream rushed to the opposite shore
to secure their weapons, while those who had not yet
entered the water were already prepared for the foe.
And not a moment too soon ; for, at least, a hundred
and fifty Camanches in full career were charging upon
the teams which had crossed.

Our position for such an encounter could not have
been worse, a third on one side of a deep, sluggish,
treacherous bottomed stream, and the remainder spread
out over half a mile in single file ; but for all that, the
boys were not discouraged, and prepared to make the
best defence possible under the circumstances.

All this had transpired on the opposite side of the
river. I had not yet crossed, but I could see it distinctly.
Each teamster stuck by his waggon, while underneath,
one or other of them whoever was disengaged and near,
took up his position.

Until the Indians came within fifty or sixty yards
not a shot was fired ; but when the discharge was
opened, its effects could be pretty clearly learned by
the number of riderless horses that could be seen scam-
pering over the plain. Of course we, that is those who
had not yet crossed, opened fire upon the assailants of
our comrades, but our range being so much greater, it
was proportionately less effective. The pluck of these
Camanches was extraordinary. Again and again they
charged up to the waggon wheels, and attempted to cut
the traces that held the mules, and as often as this was

126 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

attempted, so often did the rash attempt leave a rider-
less horse to tell what had been his fate.

But while this was going on in our front, the string of
waggons in our rear were hurriedly closing up, and it
was fortunate that they were, for down upon us, charg-
ing in splendid style, and in as compact a body as a
well trained regiment, came the force that had been
hovering all morning in our rear. Our comrades across
the river could evidently take care of themselves, and
from the numbers who were about to assail us, it was
questionable whether we could do as much.

Very few of our assailants were armed with guns;
bows and arrows being the predominant weapons. Still
their numbers so far exceeded ours that the odds of
success long appeared to me to be in their favour, but
our people to a man fought with the most determined
resolution, the reports from each waggon telling how
rapidly their fire was delivered, and their loading
accomplished.

. From the commencement of the attack on our side of
the stream, I had taken shelter under a waggon, fourth
or fifth from the ford, and facing the direction from
whence our assailants came. At first, their object
seemed to be to cut the traces of the mules in the rear
teams, and my fire in consequence was at long range,
but the strife lulling for a few moments, I made nearer
to the place where had been the hottest of the fight, but
ere I reached it, was charged by an Indian. With my
rifle I shot him stone dead when within ten paces of me;
but he was not alone, a few paces behind him followed
half-a-dozen braves. I rushed under a waggon and drew

A FIGHT WITH THE CAMANCHES. 127

my revolver. In this position, I was alone, although
several teamsters were within twenty or thirty yards.
Still the Indians thought they were in this case to have
it all their own way, for my rifle was empty, and in
consequence, until it was loaded, I could do them no
harm. Thus, two endeavoured to cut the traces of the
mules, while the others tried to get a clear shot at me,
but my revolver now came into play. The fellow who
was labouring with a blunt knife to get the wheelers
loose, fell at my first fire, the muzzle of my weapon not
being ten feet from him. Stooping immediately after-
wards to see that my foes had not dismounted to attack
me from underneath my shelter, I detected a fellow in
the very act of doing so. From between the spokes of
the fore wheel I took aim ; at the report he rolled over,
but deeming him hors de combat, I did not give him
another bullet. So far I had been alone, but others had
witnessed how trying was my position, and consequently
had rushed to my aid. This reinforcement turned the
tide of battle in my immediate vicinity, those to whom
the power was left making off as hurriedly as they had
made their approach.

For fully ten minutes a desultory fire was kept up.
At its termination, a few retreating and now distant
Camanches could be seen, the fusilade being discon-
tinued solely because they were beyond range.

Our victory was not a bloodless one ; seven of our
people were killed, or died from wounds received, but
none parted with their scalps, while the foe must have
lost quite fifty of their numbers.

If our men had not exhibited the most determined,

128 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

cool resolution, and fought with an obstinacy, that is
explained by the circumstance that captivity by these
Indians is equivalent to death, the result must have
been disastrous. That I should have successfully
played the part I did, was owing to those chances
that ever will occur in action, and to my being the
fortunate possessor of a revolver as well as a rifle.

Serge had been in almost a similar fix to myself, but
had as successfully got out of it. Whenever there is
anything unusually exciting going on, we are certain to
be separated, but riimporte, it gives us two yarns in-
stead of one to discuss over the camp-fire.

We had taught the Camanches such a lesson one
that for its severity they had seldom before received
that we scarcely expected that they would trouble us
further.

In the evening we succeeded in getting the whole of
the train over the creek, when a halt was called for the
burial of the dead, and friend and foe were laid in the
same grave. As too frequently happens in such affairs,
those that we lost were those least able to be spared,
whose gallant, indomitable nature had placed them
first in the strife, and who had thus to bear the brunt of
the onset. One of these was an old companion of
Bonte"'s. As we laid the dead man in his last resting-
place, a tear suffused the cheeks of our leader, and he
exclaimed, "Aye, Will, I ne'er thought red-skin was
born who would wipe you out ; " but so it is, the hero of
a hundred Indian fights has to succumb at last. Our
life, after all, is but a lease, and who knows its length ?

No Indians having been seen for several days after

A FIGHT WITH THE CAMANCHES. 126

the attack, our lives subsided into their accustomed
channels ; hunters went out as usual in search of game,
and the waggons were to be seen straggling, their line
extending sometimes for miles over the plain. As
usual, at the hour the coral broke up, I started on my
mare to hunt to the southward. Antelope again were
abundant, and far from wild ; so I soon killed a couple,
as many as my mare could carry, and to enable her
to do that I had to dismount. Weary with walking,
and consequently slowly toiling along over the sun-
parched plains, bathed in perspiration for it was
intensely warm I could not help thinking of the
stirring events I had witnessed since leaving ?*ome. In
a few short months I had become more conversant with
danger, and even with death, than many persons be-
come in a lifetime ; for had I not run the same risks as
those that had fallen, and was it not kismet, luck, or
whatever else it may be called, that saved me from
being numbered with the slain ? And if I had fallen,
who was there to tell the dear ones I had left so many
thousands of miles away, whether I fell in fair fight or
by the hand of an assassin ; whether I had received the
honours of a grave or been left to feed the fowls of the
air or beasts of the plain ? And not knowing of my
death, how long and patiently would they wait in hope
that each succeeding day would bring news of the
absent one, till hope deferred made the heart sick, and
constant disappointment was followed by despair ?

I could not help thus moralising ; whenever the in-
clination came, I struggled manfully to get rid of it,

but sometimes it would not go till active occupation

I3O TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

brought me relief. How much longer I might have
gone on moralising it is impossible to say ; but I was
fortunately interrupted by the appearance of what to
me looked amazingly like buffalo.

In winter these animals frequently come as far south
as our present position ; but at this season it is ex-
tremely rare to find them here, for the grasses from pro-
tracted drought are almost without sustenance, and the
heat is unbearable to an animal so thickly coated ; but
if it was not buffalo, what was it ? Some description of
the bovine family certainly. The unknown animals
were some distance out of my route ; so, as the hour
was still early, and my mare fresh, I resolved to find
out of what species they were, and if possible to secure
one or more for our teamsters, whose allowance of fresh
meat lately had been very limited.

Believing that I should probably return by the way
I came, I untied the antelopes from my nag's back,
and placed them one on the top of the other, tying my
representative of a pocket-handkerchief to the horns of
the uppermost, with the hope that the signal might
attract some of our people, and thus save me the
trouble of packing them back to camp. I knew also
that the pluckiest of prairie wolves during daylight, and
probably even after dark, would give the carcases a
wide berth while under the protection of such a banner.

Getting once more in the saddle dispelled the languor
and depression I had suffered from ; and the relief
from her burden seemed to have the same effect upon
my mare, which had exchanged twenty stone of dead
for ten of live weight.

A FIGHT WITH THE CAMANCHES. 1 3 I

Getting well down in my saddle, I kept her together,
for the ground was rough and full of burrows ; and
away over the plain she galloped as if to do so was the
pleasure of her life; and with such strength and freeness
of action, as to impress the rider with the belief that she
could keep up her pace for ever.

Thus the space between me and the unknown animals
would soon have been traversed, but I had to make a
detour for the sake of obtaining the advantage of wind,
and gaining cover to conceal my approach.

Ragged, weather-beaten, and travel-stained as my
mare looked the day I purchased her, I took a great
fancy to her true I could not have afforded to pur-
chase a high-priced animal, still I would not have
bought her, however cheap she might have been, if I
had not thought it impossible for her with such a form
to turn out badly. If I liked her then I doated upon her
now, and although I did not spare her when it was
necessary to call upon her utmost powers, I seldom
touched her flank with my spur that I did not regret
having to do so.

The love of the Arab for his mare is neither surpris-
ing nor peculiar to his race ; for any one among
Americans or Britons, those who follow out-door life
upon the plains, whose companion his horse becomes,
would no more be tempted to part with his treasure,
than the dweller in tents upon the skirts of Zarah.

Day by day the mare had improved, care and atten-
tion combined with a good constitution had done this ;
till she was now fit "to go for a man's life," as the
western expression is. I would not wish any one to

132 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

think she could win a Derby or the Liverpool Grand
National ; but with twelve stones on her back and ten
miles to go, particularly if the ground were rough, she
was admirable. Every day I thought she had reached
her best; this day she surpassed all her former per-
formances, and I knew I had a treasure whose loss I
could probably never replace.

But to the game ; for when I get upon the subject of
the mare, I fear that like many other, I am apt to ride
my hobby. Instead of buffalo, as I had anticipated, to
my surprise I found them to be common cattle ; but
their manner, the rapidity with which they moved, the
startled, deer-like stare with which they gazed about,
told me that they were wild.

On the lower plains of Mexico, wild cattle are in
some localities abundant. In Sonora they are reported
to be quite common ; but not having heard any of my
comrades round the camp fires speak of them as occurr-
ing along our present route, I had not expected to find
them. Still those of our teamsters who had travelled
further to the south had many a story to narrate of
their speed, ferocity and watchfulness.

Being now aware of the game I had to deal with, and
not being ignorant of their habits, it behoved me to
take every precaution in my approach, so as to get as
close to them as possible before they were aware of my
presence.

Turning off to the right I found a dry ravine. Its
bottom was extremely rough and unsuited for riding ;
still as it apparently led in the course I desired, I
followed it for half-a-mile, when I discovered it had no

A FIGHT WITH THE CAMANCHES. 133

outlet ; in other words that I was in a cul-de-sac. Re-
tracing my steps to where I entered it, I again had
a look at the cattle. Something, from their manner, I
had no doubt had alarmed them ; for although they
had not removed far from their former position, still
they had come close together, ceased to feed, and were
gazing fixedly in one direction, as if in it they saw
something objectionable. For some time I halted,
wondering what it could be ; but when I noticed that
the direction their eyes were fixed must be about the
head of the ravine whence I had just returned, I con-
sidered it more than probable that their acute ears
must have heard the noise my mare's feet made among
the numerous boulders.

Finding now that the game were really alarmed, it
was necessary to be more cautious ; so getting off my
mare I led her as quietly as possible up an adjoining
ravine till I supposed I must be opposite my quarry.
Leaving the mare below I clambered up a very steep
acclivity to take observations. From my position I
found I was out of range, and that the intermediate
ground between me and them was too bare and smooth
for a stalk. Worst of all, I could not distinguish how I
was to better myself.

Returning to the mare I searched for a place where
she could ascend ; for I had resolved now to ride them
down, no other course being open for me. After a
lengthened search I succeeded, and at length stood
within a few feet of the summit.

Looking to my girths to see they were tight, I quietly
mounted. Next instant we were on the plain, and the

134 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

cattle galloping off at racing speed. Between me and
them was a rock, a foot and a half, or probably more,
projecting from the ground. In my course I had to
pass it ; and as I did so, almost from among my horse's
feet sprang up a puma. So quick was my mare that
she half jumped, half shied over it, and came so near
throwing me, that for several seconds I hung by one
leg. A vigorous effort brought me back again into my
seat, but I had little time to think of this unexpected
rencontre. There were the cattle going their best, and
no contemptible pace it was ; so if fresh meat was to be
procured, I had no time to lose.

The ground for the first mile and a half was splendid
galloping ; and by the time that space was traversed
scarcely a hundred paces severed me from the rearmost,
a heifer with a stern upon her as broad as a barn door.
Singling her out for my prize, I endeavoured to gain her
flank, but the ground again becoming rough and broken,
I was obliged to moderate my pace, while the cattle
seemed to improve theirs. At length I could almost
touch her tail with my gun, a prick of the spur to my
mare's flank and a loose rein to her bridle, and I shot
alongside. Holding my rifle at arm's length I pulled
the trigger, the ball struck her in the barrel, but too far
back ; the only result it produced being a most vicious
and rapid charge. The mare took care of me and
herself, for the whole thing was so unexpected that I in
no way assisted her, and we both escaped scatheless.
Reverting to her original course the cow followed her
companions, and I her, availing myself of the opportu-
nity to re-load.

A FIGHT WITH THE CAMANCHES. 135

Again regaining her flank I fired, provoking as pre-
viously a charge, but not nearly so quick or protracted
a one ; still the pace of the animal with two bullets in
her was so lively that I began to fear that all my labour
would be thrown away.

By this time the country had commenced to change
much in appearance, for we had descended from table
land to a long strip of meadow, through which ran a
wide stream. On the water margin were several large
clumps of rushes, seven or eight feet high, fifty or sixty
yards wide, and so dense that you could not see into
them more than a few feet. The leading cattle passed
these without paying any attention to them, but the
beast I had peppered no sooner was abreast of them,
than turning abruptly from her former course, she dashed
into them, and in a moment was out of sight. That she
would remain in such cover for shelter I very much
doubted, so I gained the water's margin, hoping she
would try to ford the stream. After keeping anxious
watch for quite a quarter of an hour, I discovered she
had no such intention ; thus there was nothing left for
me but to retrace my steps to where she had entered the
reeds. I had just got opposite the place, riding close
by the margin of the cover, when my mare almost
sprung from under me and dashed off into the open at
racing speed. The cause of this unusual proceeding I
did not know, and I was for some moments too intent
on retaining my seat to turn my head to learn what had
happened ; but when I did so I saw my late antagonist
retiring slowly back into the cover. Again I rode
towards her ambush to try and induce her to come

136 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

forth, and so get a shot at her, but this she was too
cunning to do, unless I was so close that the mare dared
not stand for me to fire.

Evening was coming rapidly, and as I had many
miles to ride before regaining the waggons, it became
necessary to adopt without delay some other means of
securing my prey. This, as I believed, could only be
done by stalking her ^on foot through the rushes. The
course was a dangerous one, but still I did not like being
beaten, and that by well it was not exactly a tame
cow. To follow out this plan I took my mare some way
off and hobbled her, then striking into the reeds for a
few feet, some distance below where my foe was
sheltered I silently stole up on hands and knees to her
position. I had taken care that the wind favoured me,
for without doing so, such a course would have been
certain destruction.

At length I gained the place where I expected to find
her. Cautiously I parted the reeds, and peering through
them believed I got a glimpse of her form ; still I was
not certain enough to shoot, so I crawled a few paces
closer, and no doubt remained that my game was before
me. Pushing the barrel of my rifle before me, so as to
bring the stock to my shoulder, I unfortunately broke a
reed, for something cracked. In an instant the cow's
head came down, and although I don't think she saw
me, she kept her eyes fixed upon the place I occupied.
I wished at the time we had been fifty yards apart. I
do not believe that we were five, and as she commenced
slowly to back, a proceeding that I thought indicated an
intention to charge, I fired at her forehead, jumping at

A FIGHT WITH THE CAMANCHES. 137

the same instant several paces downward, and it was
fortunate I did so, for in a second after she passed me
headlong through the body of the smoke, and she must
have impaled me had I remained in the place whence
I had shot.

Suddenly the reeds ceased to rustle and break, induc-
ing me to believe that my semi-domesticated foe had
not gone far, and was still on the look-out for her adver-
sary. So loading as rapidly as I could, I prepared my-
self for emergencies. I was not long on the watch when
I heard the reeds rustle ; the cow had doubtless winded
me, and was in search of my hiding place. Cowering
as closely to the ground as possible I waited, somewhat
nervous as to the results, when I saw her head. A few
paces more would bring her on me" ; yet there was no
vulnerable spot exposed. However, fire I must, and I
did so, springing again downward, as it was still neces-
sary to do, for the foe, though now disabled, being game
to the last, had used her dying effort to precipitate her-
self upon her foe.

It was as dangerous an affair as I had ever been
engaged in, and the experience taught me a lesson, that
never again with a single-barrelled light-bore gun would
I engage in thick cover any of these thoroughly wild
descendants of tame ancestors.

Bringing up my mare, I made the lariat rope fast to
the cow's horns, and after some trouble drew her out to
the edge of the reeds. She was a splendid animal five
or six years old ; barren, for her udders did not appear
ever to have held milk ; while she was almost as fat as
if she had been stall-fed.

138 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

Marking well the place, and hanging my waistcoat
on a rod stuck in the soil close by to warn off prowlers,
after possessing myself of the tail and tongue, I made
for camp, which I had the fortune to discover much
nearer than anticipated. I had, moreover, the satisfac-
tion to learn that the antelopes had been found, so that
we had meat to make the body strong, and Bonte fur-
nished rum to cause the tongue to wag, while by the
camp fire, and subsequently to Serge, I told my day's
adventures over and over again, and I doubt much if
they lost anything by the frequent repetition.

CHAPTER XIII.

INDIANS IN CAMP.

NONE of the hunters having reported the discovery of
any signs of Indians during their various excursions
around our route, discipline became more and more
relaxed ; in fact we had now been so long on the journey
that it would have required a person with unusual
powers to enforce it, or to keep, even in a comparative
degree, such a reckless " devil-may-care " set of men in
order.

Bonte exerted himself, however, to this end ; he
pointed out to them not only their lives, but the lives of
the whole party were dependent upon their zeal in fol-
lowing out his instructions. But too often his advice
was thrown away, sometimes laughed at, and on several
occasions openly disobeyed. Bonte could not by any
means be considered a hard task-master ; but we had
several among us who were not only mutinous them-
selves, but endeavoured to sow the seeds of insubordina-
tion among others,

The blustering blackguard who had picked a quarrel
with the little Frenchman, now universally known as
the Count, was the first to provoke our chief's wrath. I
was standing by at the time this occurred. It was in
this manner

The waggon which this blackguard drove got fast in
some miry ground, and as it was one of the foremost,

I4O TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

brought the remainder of the train to a stand still.
Bonte from his place in the van returned to learn the
cause of the delay, and when he discovered it dis-
mounted, took off his hunting skirt, and with a will used
all his powers to extricate the mired wheel ; while its
driver sat still looking on as if it were none of his busi-
ness, and coolly smoking his pipe. " Come bear a hand
here, I think with a lift together we can get it free,"
said the owner ; but the other, in the most non-chalant
manner, responded, "I guess I've got to have my smoke
out first."

" Never mind the pipe till you get started, come hung
up, all the teams are waiting for you," Bonte responded.

" Well, let them wait," was the laconic answer of the
fellow.

Bonte was not a man of many words. Walking up
to the recusant driver, he asked in the quietest possible
manner, " Whether are you or am I boss here ? Come,
be quick for I have no time for fooling."

" Darn me if I know," was the response.

"Well, I do," exclaimed the employer, felling the
fellow to the earth.

Several now came to the assistance of our chief, so
the waggon was released and forward we moved, leaving
its teamster stretched at length upon the ground, and
trusting when he came to himself he would both be a
wiser and a better man. But the warning was lost ;
for half-an-hour afterwards he rushed, knife in hand,
at Bonte, round the tail board of the waggon, which he
had continued, during the temporary retirement of its
teamster, to attend to.

INDIANS IN CAMP. 14]

But an old hand on the" plains like Bonte" was not
easily to be taken by surprise. Before the assassin was
within five paces of him he was aware of his presence,
and although carrying a brace of revolvers did not
attempt to draw one. But rushing towards his foe, he
clasped his armed hand by the wrist, and gave it a
sudden wrench that made the weapon describe a som-
mersault through the air. When he released his power-
ful grasp, the arm that had aimed the base blow fell
powerless and broken by the side of its owner. No
further punishment was bestowed, but more was taught
in that brief lesson than it sometimes takes years to
learn.

If Bonte" had drawn his pistols and shot his assailant
dead no one would have been surprised, and many
would have approved of his doing so. That he would
have been justified in such a course there can be no
doubt ; but though strong he proved himself merciful,
and so gained favour with many who previously re-
garded him with indifference.

Like a protracted voyage at sea, so a long journey by
land has a great tendency to try people's tempers.
Subordinates as well as those in command usually
suffer from the exhaustion of their patience ; but in our
chief we had an exception to the rule.

Towards evening when we were forming our camp,
several Indians with their squaws were seen approaching
us over a neighbouring bluff. Their numbers being
insignificant they were permitted to come within our
enclosure. As usual the love of tobacco, spirits, and
gunpowder was the motive of their visit. They were a

142 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

ragged, dirty lot, and their half-starved horses, com-
bined with their own attenuated figures, proved that for
some time they had been on starvation allowance.

When our arrangements had been made for the night,
and horses and mules driven in from their evening pas-
ture, all crowded round the visitors.

A tall, well-built Missourian, a most powerful fellow,
but far from prepossessing in looks, having a settled
scowl on his features, still a man that no amount of work
or exposure seemed to have any influence upon, was
among the last who came to have a look at the red-
skins. No sooner was he noticed by one of the squaws,
a woman about thirty, than she rushed forward, and
clasping him round the waist, clung to his side.

The lady being neither attractive, well-dressed, nor
particularly clean, a laugh ran round the by-standers,
but neither of the promoters of the merriment seemed
to regard it. In the meantime the squaw had been
murmuring unintelligible expressions, obviously of en-
dearment, which were answered in the same strain ;
while the husband of the woman looked on the tender
pair, with evidently anything but approval in his gaze.

At length time came for the Indians to leave camp.
This the woman refused to do ; but, in spite of all her
husband could say, persisted in remaining with her lost
lover, and he was equally anxious to retain her. From
what we could learn, this squaw had left her husband
before for this Lothario, and resided with the latter for
some time, reverting again to her former protector when
the Missourian had left their country. Now that the
lost one had been found, she wished to establish the

INDIANS IN CAMP. 143

same intimacy, and our comrade was evidently quite
willing to meet her half-way. But whatever the dis-
position of her proper spouse had been in past years, it
was apparent that he would oppose to the utmost of his
powers any attempt to renew the intrigue. Thus high
words commenced to be bandied about, and threatening
menaces exchanged. The dispute reaching the ears of
Bonte, he presented himself upon the scene, and insisted
that all Indians, whether male or female, should
forthwith leave the camp. " It was a standing order,"
he stated, "that they had commenced their journey with,
to avoid such connections, and he was resolved to en-
force it till our destination was reached." The interested
teamster growled, and many of his comrades did not
hesitate to express themselves in the strongest terms in
opposition to what they openly designated an act of
tyranny.

" No," said Bonte, when appealed to again by the
newly-discovered lover, " every Indian must leave camp
forthwith."

But it was no easy matter to get the squaw out, for
she clung to her long-lost friend, while it looked danger-
ous in the extreme to approach him.

" Will you send that woman out ? " said Bonte.

"Ain't you a pretty one to turn out another man's
squaw ? Ha'nt you had one yourself with you up to a
week or two since, and an Indian squaw, too ? and now
she's gone, you want to prevent others doing the same.
If you are game to take her from me, do, d n you."

Bonte, after this speech, turned on his heels to go to
the waggon for his arms; and it was evident that,

144 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

unless something unexpected occurred, there would be
bloodshed before long. .

The better minded portion of the assembly resolved
to do their utmost to prevent the affair going further ;
so some followed Bonte" to mollify, if possible, his rage,
while others used their influence to induce the now
enraged teamster to give in.

After some time he appeared to give way, particu-
larly when one of his boon companions reminded him
that at Santa Fe he would have a chance to pay the
Boss out on even terms. This speech turned the
tables, and the squaw, being let go, unwillingly de-
parted with her husband. Scarcely had her back been
turned when Bonte again appeared upon the scene.
In his hard, firm features was marked that resolu-
tion that all knew he possessed, and which said,
as plainly as words could do, that he would be
master, if he should die in the effort to maintain his
authority. . . _ -.'..-.-.

Fortunately some one had told him that the squaw
was gone, but this he had not learned till he was again
among us ; so, saying nothing to the man who had set
his authority at defiance, he was about to retrace his
steps, when the other called after him

" Look here, Boss, don't you be thinking that I sent
that 'ere squaw away because I was afraid of you and
your shooting irons, because I aint and there's plenty
here knows it ; but I didn't want a muss and some of
the boys beside ourselves put under, that's a fact ;
but don't you be thinking that it's all over, for it aint,
old hoss. When you pay up at Santa Fe, we'll see, if

INDIANS IN CAMP. 145

we live to get there, whether Boss Bonte is a better
man than this here coon."

"As you like, and when you like, but better then
than now," was the answer of the employer.

Few who saw what had taken place, and knew the
characters of each of the men engaged in the quarrel,
doubted for a moment that the feud would be re-
newed, as threatened ; and the probability was that one
or both of these men would fall, for duelling is not
conducted here as in Europe. It was impossible to

anticipate such an event without regret, for both were
splendid specimens of our race, powerful and fearless,
and the cause of the quarrel, as might be said ninety-
nine times out of one hundred, was a woman.

Although still in the country of the Camanche, we
had passed the dangerous portion of it, the debateable
ground, on which are often to be found war parties of
different tribes, all anxious for bloodshed ; for here
they come with the hope of obtaining scalps as the
means of acquiring rank and honour among their
people.

A scalp being very far from an ornamental decora-
tion, it must astonish the uninitiated that they are so
much sought after. The reason is this among the
majority of tribes a man is not a brave until he has
taken a scalp ; and not being a brave, he is unworthy
to ask a dusky fair one of his race to become his squaw.
A scalp the suitor must have taken, or the object of
his adoration will reject him, and her parents will treat
his overtures for their daughter's hand as an insult.

The consequence is that all young Indians seek the

146 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

first available opportunity to go on the war-path, and
when hostilities with their neighbours do not occur, a
number of youths will band themselves together, and
go hundreds of miles to gain the desired prize. On
these occasions they are far from particular who are
their victims ; for in these vast untenanted flats and
sparse woodlands, who is to tell whether they have
drawn their bow or their knife upon a member of a
friendly tribe or of a hostile one? The hair of the
different tribes of Indians differs little in texture and
colour ; thus the scalp of an Ossaye may be called that
of a Potawalamie; that of a Mandan, the scalp of a
Sioux.

It is a scalp, and the taker of it tells his own story
when he reaches his home ; it is displayed before the
members of his tribe, and who among them can dis-
pute his assertion ? It is known by all that he has
been absent for months ; to go and return from the
hunting-ground frequented by the tribe from whom it
is represented to have been taken, would take that
amount of time. This is regarded as confirmatory evi-
dence of the truth of his statement, while possibly the
aspirant for promotion to the dignity of brave has
never been fifty miles from home, and now produces
the scalp of some unfortunate squaw of a friendly tribe
who has been waylaid on her way to or return from the
spring that supplies her lodge with water, or while she
has been driving the horses of the little community of
which she is a member to or from their pasture ground.

It is true that nearly all tribes have different ways of
dressing their scalp-locks; so different that many of

INDIANS IN CAMP. 147

the experienced traders and trappers can distinguish at
a glance by this appendage to what tribe a person
belongs. When this is the case with white men, no one
will deny that among Indians, who are much keener in
external observation, the people to whom a scalp
belonged would readily be recognised, if it remained
unaltered. But the scalp-taker knows this well, and at
once proceeds to remove any insignia belonging to a
friendly, and to replace them with those of a hostile,
tribe.

Few questions, I am inclined to believe, are asked.
The Indians love a pow-wow, followed by general
rejoicings, and here is an excuse for it. The young
man has presented his credentials, and without quibble,
forthwith he is decorated with the order he has coveted.

Among the southern Indians, such as have their
homes in Sonora, Northern Mexico and Northern
Texas, a white man's scalp is highly valued ; among
those in the north, except the Crows and Blackfeets,
they are not so, from what I can learn. Although many
faint-hearted young Indians may stay near home
to obtain the prize they seek, all do not do so. Many
go upon the border, or neutral grounds between different
tribes, where they can find many opportunities to seize
their prize.

The bravery of Indians, as a rule, is difficult to
decide upon. Sometimes they do the most daring
things, at other times they do the reverse. That fifty
of them will haunt a man to the death, whereas two or
three will hesitate often in attacking a white trapper, is
a known fact. If we were armed only with bows and

148 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

arrows, or old and not infrequently crooked barrelled
muskets, with powder made not to throw a ball over the
most limited distance, it is quite possible we might not
evince much more courage than they do.

The white men, even in much smaller numbers, have
so great an advantage that we can hardly blame the
Indians for not attacking them, unless with a greatly
superior force.

Again, the Indian is physically not nearly as strong
as we are ; so that if in a contest between a white and
red man both got disarmed, the former would have the
result of the battle entirely in his power.

I do not for a moment wish to save the Indians
from the aversion or even hatred with which they are
usually regarded ; for there is no doubt that they are a
cruel, vindictive, blood-thirsty race, who never spare
age or sex, unless under extraordinary circumstances,
as when they fear that the relatives of their prisoners
are sufficiently numerous to retaliate.

This is so frequently the case on the United States
frontier, that they have ceased to a great extent to per-
secute the small farmers and settlers ; for they know
that they cannot do so with impunity, but on the fron-
tier of Mexico, it is almost a daily occurrence for them
to make descents upon the villages, and not only carry
off all the cattle they can lay their hands upon, but also
the women, and to kill and scalp all the males that fall
into their hands.

The Mexicans are a cowardly, ignorant, and super-
stitious people, and have never been able to inspire the
same respect among the Indians as the Americans.

CHAPTER XIV.

SANTA FE AT LAST!

As I have said, we had at last gained a country where
the Camanche were less numerous and dangerous, and
where it was improbable that braves from other tribes
were to be met with, and as fresh food, that desideratum
to the hard-worked and weather-exposed traveller, was in
great demand, having first learned our probable route, I
determined, with the consent of Bonte, to make a forced
march ahead of some hours, then commence hunting,
and wait for the arrival of the waggons.

No sooner was my purpose known than over the
camp fire the night before I left, several attempted to
dissuade me from it ; but once having stated my inten-
tion, nothing would induce me to draw back. And
there can be no doubt my reputation for courage would
have sunk even in the estimation of those who advised
me against going, if I had listened to their advice.

" Go I would and chance it," I stated.

" Well, Johnny Bull, you'll lose the number of your
mess, that's a fact, and your mother and sisters will
have a good cry over you, leaving alone that chubby
red-faced girl that you promised to love for ever and a
day ; but there's not so much harm in that, for after
you're gone there'll be more fixings for all of us here,
and a chance for some other gaining the heart of that
sweetheart of yours, and these comely girls of yours are

150 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

tarnation nice, wish I was there, I do, that's a fact.
Guess our minister would put me into something fat."
So spoke one of our best tempered, most chaffing com-
rades, one that loved his grog and tobacco, but was
not accredited with much go-a-headness, but in the
earlier part of his speech all concurred ; so I almost
commenced to wish I had not thought of such a trip, or
asked permission to undertake it.

One fellow, a rough boor of the half-horse, half-
alligator type, made me feel inclined to be savage, when
he made the remark, " that if I didn't care about losing
my own scalp, he didn't see the right, d n him if he
did, to risk losing such a mare as mine to the
squad."

After having cleaned my arms and made all neces-
sary preparations for an early start, I retired to my
waggon early, and was about to close my eyes when I
perceived some one parting the cover that hung over
the back board.

"Are you asleep Jack ?"

" No, not yet ; will be soon though," I answered the
unknown.

" Well, wake up for a moment," was the response.

" Sooner not, for I have to make an early start," I
replied.

" I know you have, old fellow, I won't keep you long,
it is me, Serge, Serge Soldatenkoff. I want to have ten
minutes' talk with you, not an instant more," and he
crept into the waggon and lay down upon the baggage
beside me.

"Excuse me for interrupting you, old fellow, for I

SANTA FE AT LAST !

know you require as much rest as possible ; but I have
made up my mind to go with you to-morrow, now don't
say no," for I made an uneasy turn on my resting place
which he seemed to construe into my disapproval of his
proposition.

" I have asked Bonte", and he has given me his con-
sent," moreover, he added, " that if he had not already
given you permission to go he would refuse to sanction
your proceeding so far ahead of the teams, but as it was
so, it was better by long odds that you had a companion.
So you see I am resolved to go with you, and if there
are any adventures on hand this time I shall have a
chance of participating in the fun. Bonte has lent me
one of his best horses, so my mount cannot as formerly
be made the ground for declining my company. Good
night, pleasant dreams, never fear, I shall be ready at
cock-crow."

Serge was true to his promise, I had not a moment to
wait for him ; so before the sun had well cleared the
eastern horizon, we were both in the saddle and riding
nearly due south-west.

I was very glad of such a companion. From our avo-
cations being so different I had not seen half as much of
my friend since we had joined the train at St Joseph's
as I desired ; true, we frequently had a pipe and a
chat over the watch fires, but our intercourse seldom
amounted to more, for both were too tired to spend
much time in talking of bye-gone days.

Game was remarkably scarce and wild ; however,
Serge, at long range, made two beautiful shots, each
killing an antelope, which he soon had fast to the

152 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

cantles of our saddles ; and as it was now noon, and as
there was no prospect of further sport, we resolved to
seek shelter and eat our lunch. The horses we tied to
some brush, giving them as much line as possible, so as
to permit them to eat what herbage was near ; while
stretched upon the grass we enjoyed our ease without
much thought of dignity.

Serge had made up his mind to leave Bonte at Santa
Fe, and wished me to do likewise ; of course we were
both justified in such a course, for there our engage-
ments terminated, unless we chose to renew them.

The only objection I could make to such a step was
want of funds. However my companion would not
listen to this, he had sufficient to take us both to San
Francisco, and there he was certain a remittance would
await him.

Thus being overruled in my objection, I surrendered
at discretion, and we pleasantly chatted about the future
and the good things it had in store for us.

An hour might thus have passed when Serge, without
the slightest warning, raised his rifle and instantly fired.
I cast my eye forward to know what he aimed at.
Beside the horses lay an Indian apparently dead, while
another was in the act of untying my mare. In a
moment I had a bead upon him ; but although I dis-
abled the red-skin, still I had done no more. With one
accord we rushed to the horses, we had scarcely reached
them when half a dozen howling savages came at us.
So close were they that we had not time to mount.
Blood they were evidently resolved to have, and calcu-
lated that there was no difficulty in obtaining it, now

SANTA FE AT LAST ! 153

that our rifles were empty ; but here my revolver, which
I had shoved into Serge's hands, came into most
effectual play. The first two shots each brought down
a man. In the meantime I was not idle, for I had got
both the horses together, tied up their lariat ropes, and
cut the antelopes adrift. Thus we were almost ready
to mount when a fresh sortie was made by the savages,
reinforced by two more. I never saw more perfect
pistol practice than Serge made ; no, not even in a
shooting gallery. Talk about coolness, there was not a
pulse in his body going faster than usual, nor ever did
eye and hand work more perfectly together.

Again the Indians recoiled. Mount now Serge, I'll
hold your horse till you get in the saddle. Are you all
right ? look to the remaining barrels of the revolver, we
may need it if they try to cut us off. But there was no
need of the advice, we were soon free of the brush, and
the open prairie was before us.

These Indians did not use their bows and arrows,
apparently, because they did not wish to wound the
horses ; and felt confident that without doing so they
would make us prisoners.

It was a sharp affair while it lasted ; and never had
man before had a better companion to assist him
through such an ordeal than I had in Serge.

Game now became visibly scarcer day by day,
hordes of wild horses taking its place. I several times
tried to get a shot at them, but failed from their extreme
shyness. I also made an attempt to gallop one down,
and although I certainly beat it in pace, it led me such
a chase through the very roughest kind of stone-covered

154 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

country, that I was compelled to give up the pursuit for
fear the mare should injure herself.

One of the hunters was more fortunate than myself,
for he knocked over a fine four-year-old filly, the flesh
of which was extremely good, and made a most welcome
addition to our commissariat.

For some time one day had been a repetition of its
predecessors, which with the monotonous similitude of
the country, made all most anxious for a sight of Santa
Fe. It was Sunday afternoon when this desire was
gratified, and two hours before sunset we were out upon
the plaza. As in all Roman Catholic countries Sunday
afternoon is a great holiday, and the large crowd that
immediately surrounded us, all decked out in their
best clothes, the brilliancy of the colour of the dresses
of both males and females formed a pleasant contrast
to the dull-coloured walls of the adobe houses.

Santa Fe had then a population of about 5000, a large
portion of which derived its subsistence from the over-
land trade with the United States. I do not think
that it had any very wealthy citizens, although several
were reported to possess large haciendas in the country,
stocked with innumerable cattle and horses. But such
property must be very uncertain here, for the Camanches
to the east and Arapahoes to the west, throughout the
summer are making incursions in every direction, and
appropriating whatever they can lay their hands
upon.

The proprietor and his shepherds on the alarm of
Indians being given, can secure their safety by rushing
into the hacienda and barricading the doors ; but they

SANTA F AT LAST ! 155

cannot at a few minutes' warning collect their flocks,
scattered possibly over many thousands of acres.

Thus he who is rich to-day may be poor to-morrow,
for the Mexicans never think of opposing or fighting the
Indians, even although they are equal in numbers. In
truth there is no use denying the fact that Mexican men
are the greatest cowards to be found on the earth, while
extraordinary to say, the women are exactly the reverse.
But if these men fear to fight openly, they are cut-
throats, robbers, and assassins of the very worst kind ;
and I believe these occupations, with gambling, com-
pose their favourite amusements.

They are also exceedingly superstitious, and submit
without murmur to the most tyrannical control of the
priests, who are a dirty, ignorant, bigoted, and sensual
class. The costume of the people of Santa Fe is almost
identical with the picturesque dresses in use in the south
of Spain. The men are frequently tall, and generally
well formed ; but there is a want of intelligence in their
faces, which are distinguished instead by a forbidding
scowl or hang-dog expression ; on the other hand the
young women are invariably pleasing, often very pretty,
sometimes really beautiful ; but their charms soon fade,
so that soon after passing middle age they become the
most forbidding hags. The children are very swarthy.
Those of the lower classes, play about the streets till
eight or nine years of age, almost in a state of nudity.

One broad, long street passes through the centre of
the town, from which minor ones diverge at right angles.
The houses are much scattered, built out of adobe or
sun-dried bricks, square in form, with flat roofs the

156 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

favourite lounging and gossiping place of the owners.
The dwellings of the wealthier are also square, but
enclose a court yard, not unfrequently anything but
ornamental ; for if its owner is in business or owns stock,
it is, according to the weather, a mass either of dust
or mud.

In front of the cathedral, a very tawdry and unattrac-
tive building, is a large square. Here our mules were
unhitched, and the waggons placed in such position as
might be most convenient for carrying on the forth-
coming trade.

Scarcely was this accomplished when all the teamsters
wandered off in search of drink and debauchery.
Scarcely an hour elapsed afterwards when they might
have been seen returning to camp in the most fearful
state of inebriation, accompanied by numerous acquaint-
ances they had made during their short visit.

To the least observant eye it was quite evident that
it was only a question of time, if such conduct continued,
when there would be a disturbance between our people
and the inhabitants. Thus Serge and I resolved to
keep aloof, obtain our discharges as soon as possible,
and leave Santa Fe* as soon after as our arrangements
would permit.

The next day being the anniversary of the birth of a
favourite saint, the afternoon was to be devoted to horse
racing, chasing the bull, and a game called el gallo.

Of the first much cannot be said, save that running
was made from start to finish ; that the horses, although
not fast, were enduring, and under wonderful control.
The second sport, chasing the bull, was wondrously

SANTA FE AT LAST ! 157

exciting, and afforded an admirable opportunity for a
display of the adroitness of these people on horseback,
for which they have long been celebrated.

A bull is turned loose upon the plain. At a signal
a dozen or more horsemen dash after it, when the
animal, becoming alarmed, uses its utmost exertions to
escape from its pursuers. But this is not to be, for the
horses are the swifter, and one after another of the
riders comes closer and closer to the now terrified bull.
At last the leading horseman is within reach of the
unfortunate animal's tail. The rider bends forward in
the saddle, and with sudden effort catches the tail by
the tassel, which he passes in some marvellous manner
under his off leg, when wheeling his horse sharply off to
the left, the bull is instantaneously thrown on his back,
not unfrequently completing a sommersault. Again
and again the poor frightened beast regains its legs,
and as often is thrown, till, exhausted and panting, it
is incapable of further exertion, when its throat is
humanely cut.

The object of this sport is not only to prove the speed
of the horses, but also the horsemanship of the riders,
which truly is marvellous.

El gallo, or the cock, is not dissimilar. One of these
birds is turned loose upon the plain, several hundred
yards in front of the pursuers. When the signal is
given, away dash the equestrians after it. Every man
and horse strains his utmost to be first. At length the
leader approaches the prize ; over the flank of his horse
he hangs till his figure can scarcely be seen. At length
his opportunity arrives, and he makes an effort to seize

158 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

the bird ; but in this he fails, for the fowl at the moment
turns off abruptly, and so baulks the attempt. Another
and another are equally unsuccessful, till the poor cock
becoming exhausted is ultimately captured. Then
comes the cruel part of the performance, for the effort
of the successful rider is to take his prize back to the
starting place that of the other competitors is to
prevent him from accomplishing this task. If the
possessor of the bird is mounted on the fastest horse,
then the difficulty of his task is not great ; but if, which
is more frequently the case, his horse is outpaced by
several of the others, a struggle takes place to deprive
him of his reward, in which the unfortunate fowl is
certain to be torn to pieces.

That the Mexicans are splendid horsemen cannot be
denied. But their seat is entirely different from what
we are accustomed to, for they ride with a very long
stirrup, consequently w r ith a straight leg, and with the
body thrown forward. The can tie and tree of their
saddle is very high, and the space separating them only
sufficiently wide for the rider to get between them.
The bit, again, is a terrible weapon, and is said to be
sufficiently powerful to break a horse's jaw. Whether
this is so or not, I have seen a horse, while galloping at
his utmost speed, pulled up upon his haunches in an
instant.

While Serge and I were watching with considerable
interest all these performances, we perceived a stranger
whose attire was neither American nor Mexican. His
dress was English, with the exception of a few Mexican
additions, such as a long scarlet scarf wrapped tightly

SANTA FE AT LAST ! 159

round his waist, while his head was protected from the
sun by a wide sombrero. His complexion was very-
fair, and his manner was decidedly that of a gentleman.
Several times he approached us as if with the intention
of entering into conversation ; then he withdrew as if
doubtful how we would receive his advances. When-
ever anything occurred that had struck him as worthy
of admiration, he exclaimed, sotto voce, " By Jove," and
stroked his downy moustache. At length, through the
bustling of the crowd, we were forced together, when,
taking off his hat, he said, "Pardon me, gentlemen.
Countrymen, I believe Englishmen."

" I am ; but my friend is Russian," I answered.

" The same thing the same thing exactly. My name
is Philip Upton I am delighted to make your acquaint-
ance, I am so beastly lonely in this detestable country.
I should go back to the city of Mexico, only I wish to
see the country, and get to San Francisco, after which,
if ever I set foot in this confounded land of cut-throats
and robbers, I'll consent to be scalped."

The stranger's manner was so genuine, and his air so
well bred, that we were both immediately prepossessed in
his favour. As we walked back to the encampment,
he enquired how we had got to Santa Fe". On being
informed, he said " The very thing I wanted to do,
shoot buffaloes, fight Indians, &c. ; but I was told
that to cross the plains I must join some waggon train
or other, drive one of the teams, clean my mules and
harness, grease wheels, and all that kind of thing.
Now, I did not mind the driving, but by Jove I could
not bring myself to do the other things."

160 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

Serge here spoke : " Well, I have ; but there was very
little cleaning either of mules or harness, and as to
greasing wheels, a piece of tobacco, or a glass of grog
would always induce one of the other teamsters to
do it."

" Ah ! I see," said Upton. " Of course it would, by
Jove. I never thought of that, but," turning to me
"did you drive?"

" No ; I was hunter."

" Hunter! the very thing I should have liked to be
above all. Did you shoot many buffaloes, and had you
any fights with the Red-skins?"

"Every day we killed some game, and the Indians
were often so troublesome that we should have been
very glad to have dispensed with their presence."

" By Jove, only to think that I might have done the
same. What a fool I have been dawdling away my
time ; but you had some interest to get you such a
berth?"

" No ; simply hired myself for the trip at twenty-five
dollars a-month."

Astonishment was visible on the face of our new
acquaintance ; but as we had reached the waggons, he
did not express it.

"Where do you dine to-night?" he inquired, when
we were bidding each other good-bye, adding, " I can-
not offer you a wonderful feed, but it will not be bad of
the kind. Will you do me the favour of having dinner
with me ? Seven o'clock punctually, and that is my
Fonda opposite."

We accepted with pleasure, enjoyed a good dinner for

SANTA FE AT LAST ! l6l

Santa Fe, and what was more wonderful, an abundance
of excellent European wine ; and the more we saw of
our host, the more Serge and I liked him.

From that day commenced a friendship, which was
destined to last through life.

CHAPTER XV.
PHILIP UPTON'S STORY.

SERGE had no difficulty in getting his discharge and
settling with Bonte". It was not so with me, for Bonte
had calculated on my assisting him in his accounts, as
soon as trading commenced ; however, I pointed out to
him the wording of the agreement, which he acknow-
ledged there was no misunderstanding. However, he said
he would give me a hundred and twenty-five dollars a
month if I would remain. I explained to him how
impossible this would be, so he paid me my hire, gave
me a shake of his hand, and wished me God speed.

Before dismissing Bonte, I must say I found him up-
right and honest, never expecting from others what he
would not do himself; but if he came across a skulker,
an eye-serving scoundrel, then woe betide the wretch.

No more was heard of the intended duel, which I
rejoiced at ; for the principals were both men too brave
and true to fall by each other's hands.

Farewell, Bonte, may you ever prosper, was the wish
of Serge and myself.

After our discharge, we took up our residence with
Upton at the Fonda, and as his destination was the
same as our own, we determined to commence our pre-
parations at once, so as to make an early start.

Our new friend had brought from the City of Mexico
two saddle horses, both well-bred, useful animals, one of

PHILIP UPTON'S STORY. 163

which he transferred to Serge ; but mules were wanted
to carry our baggage, and as these animals would have
to travel with light loads, four, or at least three, would
be necessary to enable us to get expeditiously over the
ground, for a great portion of our way was through the
Apache Country, and the remainder was said to be
frequented by the most formidable band of desperadoes
ever known on the Pacific Slopes, who had been driven
from San Francisco by the vigilance committee.

As my funds were far from abundant, I feared making
an outlay of a large amount, so I unbosomed myself to
my friends. Serge still had several hundred dollars, and
Upton had a considerable sum, which was placed at my
disposal for our common benefit. After a few days I
had obtained four excellent mules, and the services of a
guide, highly recommended by his padre, and said to be
thoroughly conversant with the route.

Doubtless the good priest believed in his protege", or
he would not have recommended him ; but if ever an
unfortunate man was gifted with repulsive features, and
a murderous cowardly expression, this man was.

After innumerable vexatious delays, all of which were
caused by the guide, we got started at sunrise of a
beautiful day. Several of our old companions came to
see Johnny Bull and the ^^.rian off; for "narey one of
them but would have his scalp riz before that day week."
This our friends doubtless thought, and did not tell us
so from other motives than those of a kindly nature.
They rode with us about ten miles, and many were the
shakes of the hand, and kind wishes they expressed
for us when we bid them adieu. Rough these men

164 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

undoubtedly were, but what could be expected from
men nurtured as they were ? but underneath their
brusqueness and devil-may-care manner, there is a
warmth of heart and sincerity far more true and
genuine than is to be found among the votaries of
fashion or strugglers for a subsistence in our large
cities.

Our horses being fresh and in good condition, the
mules strong and very lightly loaded, in the first two
days we must have traversed nearly one hundred miles ;
but this we could scarcely expect to keep up, as the
country became hourly more mountainous and stony.
But on the third day, when we had been in our saddles
about an hour after our mid-day rest, we came across
the tracks of seven or eight horsemen ; their animals
were unshod, and the hoof-prints were small, so that it
was more than probable their riders -were Indians, and
if so, Apache. For a mile or more their trail continued
in the same'direction as ours, when suddenly it diverged
to the north through the chaparal brush. As soon as the
guide looked at the tracks, he turned pale, and pro-
nounced them Apache, and immediately counselled a
hasty retreat. To avoid his putting such a step into
execution, he was ordered to the front, and made to
understand that he would retire at his peril. Making a
virtue of necessity, he obeyed ; but did it with the worst
grace possible.

As we rode on, we held a council of war. My friends,
from my late experience, constituted me leader, and
asked under the circumstances what I deemed it best
to do. On this point I had already made up my mind,

PHILIP UPTON S STORY. 165

to ride as slowly forward as possible, so as to impress
the Indians, if they were watching us, with the idea that
our horses were tired ; and also to save their strength
for renewed exertion. At sunset I determined to com-
mence making camp, to build and light the fires, as if
we suspected nothing ; but the moment it got dark, to
get into the saddle and not draw bridle till daylight.

My proposition was at once accepted, as the most
likely means to enable us to elude our foes.

For many miles we had been traversing a plain with
a gradual ascent towards the west ; at length, we came
to a ridge, after crossing the summit of which, Upton
and I jumped off our horses, and made out distinctly,
about seven or eight miles off, a cloud of dust, evidently
emanating from horsemen following in our track. In
the meantime, the mules had gone on with the guide,
under the charge of Serge, whom that worthy seemed
to fear more than Upton and myself put together.
There certainly was a quiet manner about Soldatenkoff
that was wonderfully telling upon such worthies.

We did not hurry our pace, but rather dawdled, and
we encamped sooner than usual, for the purpose of
giving the horses a good feed of grass ; for we thought
it very improbable that the Apache would come over
the ridge we had lately left, till it was at least dark,
for fear of being discovered. In the meantime Serge,
Philip, and I, took tur about watching the ridge ; but
nothing was observable against the sky-line. Soon
after sunset the nags were brought up, and each got a
feed of corn. Then the camp-fire was lighted ; and as
night fell again we were in the saddle, pushing our way

1 66 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

to the west My knowledge of Indians, principally
derived from the stories I had heard from the traders
around the camp-fire when coming across the plains,
induced me to believe that our enemies would wait till
an hour or two before dawn, when they would make a
dash upon us, endeavour to stampede the cattle, and
murder all they could lay their hands upon. Thus we
were in no hurry, for it would probably be many hours
before they would find out the trick we had practised
on them.

The next day passed, and not a sign of the enemy
could be seen ; still we did not abate our vigilance, for
after we had cooked our evening meal we replenished
the fires, left the camp, and slept in a ravine about a
mile and a half to the south of our route.

At daybreak we were again in the saddle, and all
commenced to think we had given our foes the slip,
when we found that upwards of twenty savages were in
full chase. Either of us could have outpaced them,
and thus have escaped ; but such a course would have
entailed our deserting our baggage animals, as well as
the worthy guide, who bestrode as miserable a Rosi-
nante as ever looked through a bridle. This we could
not for a moment think of doing. Thus it was deter-
mined that if fighting could not be avoided, he was to
push forward with the mules, while we formed a rear-
guard and made a running fight of it.

Soon it became evident that this plan had to be
adopted. The guide hurried forward. My companions
and I remained behind. Scarcely a hundred yards
separated us from our foes, when all fired ; two of the

PHILIP UPTONS STORY. 167

enemy fell, the remainder hesitated whether to advance
or retire. This pause enabled us to re-load.

Never had man two more suitable companions for
such an occasion. Serge was as cool and methodical
as was his wont. Philip was equally so, but in a differ-
ent manner ; and he kept speaking to himself, I believe
in praise of Serge's shot. " By Jove, beautiful ; never
saw anything like it before ; wonderful, by Jove ! "

The Indians did not remain long in doubt ; our
second fire tumbled one out of the saddle, and knocked
over two of their horses. But as they were still fifteen
to three, we resolved to retire, as the mules were now
quite a mile and a half in front.

As I expected, we easily distanced our pursuers ; but
as soon as we got up to the baggage animals, the
enemy commenced rapidly to overtake us. To the left
was the remains of what had been a Puebla ranch ; the
walls were still many feet high, so I directed the guide
to lead us to it. Through the only opening, which
doubtless had once done duty for a door, we forced our
animals ; and not a moment too soon were we, for the
enemy were within thirty yards of our heels ; but
Upton and Serge were equal to the emergency ; both
drew their revolvers, and made good use of them,
while the guide with his blunderbuss and I stood by
to support them. But this was not required, for the
Indians drew off, and, galloping to and fro at sixty or
seventy yards, treated us to a deluge of arrows. But
as they found our rifles hurt them more than their
missiles did us, they with one accord gave a wild yell,
and galloped off to the eastward.

1 68 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

" By Jove ! " exclaimed Upton, " the very thing I
wished to see."

Both of us laughed ; for, however trivial the occa-
sion, or great the danger, the familiar expression of
" by Jove " was certain to come. Thus we got rid of
the Apache* ; and these were the last Indians we had to
encounter.

For days after the last narrated events we off-saddled
in the middle of the day, as the sun was oppressively
warm, and the dust almost unendurable. All about
our restuig-place the tracks of grisly bear were nume-
rous, and so fresh that the animals could not be very
far distant. Thus Upton and I went in search of the
game, leaving Serge in charge of the camp. Large as
these brutes are, it is not easy to see them if they wish
to keep concealed. Thus we had wasted nearly two
hours fruitlessly, and were about to give up the task,
when I heard my friend pronounce very loudly, and
with more than usual emphasis, his favourite exclama-
tion. He was not at the time above eight paces from
me, but, on account of the thickness of the brush, I
could not see him. Nevertheless, I knew that some-
thing was up, so I made the best of my way towards
him. Through the intervening bushes I caught a
glimpse of him he was in the act of levelling his rifle ;
in another second there was a shot, then a yell of pain,
and in a second after I was by my friend's side. And
not an instant too soon, for he had thrown down his
gun and drawn his revolver, to settle matters with the
grisly, who was now charging down upon him. I
called upon him to pick up his gun and retreat, loading

PHILIP UPTONS STORY. 169

it as rapidly as possible, while I would try and kill or
disable his antagonist. But Upton would not be coun-
selled. Bang went one barrel, when the beast was at
least thirty yards off, without doing further injury than
causing it to shake its head ; bang went another with
the same result. I did not fire, for I knew that if I did
not deliver an effective shot my friend would probably
be killed ; so I intended waiting till I could do so at
such short range that my bullet would be almost certain
to be efficacious. Two more barrels of the revolver
were fired, Upton standing his ground like a Briton,
evidently resolved not to give way till he fired his part-
ing shot, which he did with the muzzle against his foe's
hide. Then I raised my rifle. The bear was now on
his hind legs, prepared for the final rush, and the bullet
went home between the ear and eye, causing him to
fall on the spot where he stood.

"By Jove, splendidly done," said Philip; "but I
should like to have given him the last of my pills first."

The contents of his pistol were certainly treated as if
they were pills, and I have little doubt that, had I
not been near, he would on that day have fired his
last shot.

There never was a better fellow than Upton. A
stranger, to look at him, would have said, from his care-
less, unenergetic manner, that he was without dash or
courage. In this he would have been entirely wrong,
for he was courage personified, his daring amounting
almost to recklessness; and he was as cool under
danger as in the most ordinary circumstances.

Our route lay now over elevated passes of the Cor-

I7O TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

dilleras, exceedingly stony, and in many places so
steep that the horses had frequently to be led. Al-
though it was summer, the nights were piercingly
cold, causing both men and animals to suffer much.
Our guide proved himself to be thoroughly acquainted
with the route, and was not nearly such a bad fellow as
we took him for. He was thoroughly conversant with
the nature and habit of mules in my opinion the most
difficult creatures to understand and so was invalu-
able. If an inexperienced traveller tries to fasten a
load on a mule, in a mile or so he will find it all loose,
and evincing a strong tendency to turn round and get
under the brute's belly. It does not matter how much
care he may have taken, this is sure to be the result ;
while a Mexican will put on the load, make three or
four turns of the ropes round it, all performed in the
most careless way, and at the end of the longest
journey it will be as secure in its place as at starting.

The Spanish race and their descendants have a seem-
ingly intuitive knowledge how to manage these ani-
mals. Doubtless it is owing to their being accustomed
to them from childhood.

While crossing the Sierras, on several occasions, we
came in contact with digger Indians, possibly the
lowest people in the scale of humanity that exist. They
are exceedingly small in stature, and very repulsive
in appearance. They subsist chiefly upon roots, al-
though occasionally small game falls to their bows and
arrows. They seem to have no fixed abodes, but
wander from place to place, as circumstances dictate.
They are said to be extremely treacherous, but I should

PHILIP UPTON S STORY. I 7 1

imagine they would not venture to use force unless in
case of their encountering a solitary traveller when they
were in numbers. Those we saw fled at our approach,
and used such expedition, that an observer would have
supposed their lives depended on the result. Poor
wretches ! they have suffered much from the immigra-
tion of white men to the Pacific Slopes, and if report
speak true, many of them have been wantonly shot by
the seekers for gold. What the white man does to these
unfortunates we hear little of ; but should the tables be
turned, an immense outcry is made.

At length we arrived at Sacramento, none the worse
for our exposure and hardships. Here we sold our
mules for four times what they cost ; also our horses,
but not at such a profit. From here we took steamboat
to Frisco, as the natives delight to call it ; and soon
were established in a comfortable hotel, where a man
required to have a purse as long as his arm.

So far we had never learned from Philip Upton what
caused him to wander so far from home ; Serge in-
sisted that it must i have been a love affair ; but I
did not agree with him, for I did not believe any
woman would refuse her love to our handsome, brave,
impulsive friend. We were now all so intimate that Sol-
datenkoff put the question to him point blank. He told
us his story, and the following is the narrative as near
as my memory can give it.

My home, when I was eighteen years of age, was as
pretty a gentleman's country house as could have been
found. I do not mean to say that it might not have
been far surpassed in size and accommodation, but this I

172 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

will vouch for, that for comfort and unostentatious
elegance I have not seen its equal. To describe it is not
difficult. It was said to have been built in the reign of
Queen Elizabeth ; but whether its antiquity was so
great or not, I never could ascertain ; but I am certain
this report did not antedate the building of my house
by many years. Elms, oaks, and beeches grew around
it, that must have been planted after the masons had
finished their work, and they bore upon their rugged
sides such an impress of time that those skilled in the
growth of trees have often told me that over two cen-
turies must have elapsed for them to have gained such
gigantic stature. Again, the pond and terraced garden
spoke not of modern times, but of an age when taste in
adornment was quaint and totally different from modern
notions. Although I am now thousands of miles away
from that house, which will ever be to me the dearest
and sweetest spot I have known in life, I can see it as if
I gazed upon it even now. The clustering jessamine,
entertwined with monthly roses, that shut from view its
rugged, rough cast walls, and which tap against the
windows, as if to ask those within to take notice of their
beauty, or to obtain permission to breathe their frag-
rance into the apartments they ever guarded.

The sun was bright in the sky, the time about a
couple of hours after mid-day, and some months before I
left my home. The water was too clear for fishing, or else
I should have been by the river side ; so to pass time I
was busily engaged finishing some of the rough sketches
that in an idle hour I had taken of the scenes of the
surrounding neighbourhood ; when I heard from the

PHILIP UPTONS STORY. 173

lawn familiar voices calling my Christian name. With-
out looking, I recognised the voices; so impatiently
throwing my brush down I hurried from my room with
the impetuosity that marks youth. In front of the hall
door stood a little group. They might not have
attracted attention from a stranger, but all were dear to
me, for long had they been my friends, and even inti-
mate friends, and although I did not love them all alike,
I regarded each with brotherly affection. First, I will
describe the eldest, she was about two and twenty,
rather under the general height, with a beautiful, warm,
sunny complexion, grey laughing eyes, shaded with the
longest eyelashes ; while her mouth always wore a
saucy smile, which made her regular pearl-like teeth look
doubly attractive ; she was slightly inclined to be stout,
but there was a grace about her figure that never failed
to attract the most casual observer, and how well did
she know this, for study had made her mistress of the
art of gesture. Wherever or whenever she walked or
rested, her attitude would have charmed a sculptor.
Beauty of face alone may be attractive, but when it is
combined with grace of carriage, and perfect contour of
shape, it is irresistible. To myself at least it was so,
and time, even young as I am, has already told me that
we mortals think much alike on such matters. The
remainder of the party are soon described. The second
was a handsome, well-grown girl of sixteen. The
youngest promised to be good-looking, but she was
only entering her teens. It is necessary to say the
eldest was governess, the others were pupils. But all is
not yet known of this fascinating coterie, which was to be

I 74 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

met daily wandering through some of the sunny lanes or
wood-protected paths that abounded in the vicinity of
my home. Yes, I have not said that a dear, old white
pony and an equally antiquated greyhound ever per-
formed the duties of servant and guardian to their
mistresses, and kinder ones it would be hard to
find.

When I joined them, I was greeted by all with the
information that they were in search of me to accom-
pany them to the shore of a neighbouring loch to
gather pebbles. What pleasanter occupation could I
have ? what was it possible for me to undertake, which
would cause the afternoon to drift more speedily away ?
So few minutes elapsed before white pony, dog, and all
were en route to our destination.

That bank of gravel what an attractive spot it was.
The greenest woods formed its background ; the bluest
waves, seldom ever crested with a line of spray, broke
upon its margin, while away about two or three miles
in the distance frowned one of those noble old struc-
tures that told of the age when might was right.

But this castle, for so it was, would have been sombre
from the dark-brown stone of which it was composed,
were it not that the greenest ivy climbed in dense
masses over its heavy walls, or hung in festoons, float-
ing to and fro in every breath of wind, from the
summit of buttress, embrasure, or turret. The sun's
rapid approach to the western horizon, told but too
plainly that the time for departure had arrived, yet all
seemed to avoid the subject, each was loth to pro-
nounce the words that must terminate an afternoon

PHILIP UPTON S STORY. 175

that had been laden with pleasure to all. But when
such a heinous offence as staying out beyond stated
hours had previously occurred, my companions had
always placed the blame on me, and their parents
seemed ever to consider it a duty to treat me as the
scape-goat Thus I felt responsible, and in spite of
numerous entreaties, just to wait ten minutes more, I
turned a deaf ear to all appeals, and ultimately
succeeded in getting the company to fall into marching
order. Ten minutes afterwards the road was reached ;
we had proceeded on it but a few yards when a carriage
overtook us. When abreast of us it stopped, for in it
was the mother of my younger companipns. For them
there was room inside. Mademoiselle, the governess,
on the white pony, under my guidance, and protected
by the greyhound, were to reach home by a shorter
route across the fields.

As the carriage rolled away, and the murmur of the
wheels became more indistinct, and the rising drifts of
dust obscured it from view, I was recalled from my
reverie by my companion saying in the sweetest intona-
tion of what ever was a charming voice,

" Well, Sir Knight, I want your assistance to mount,
and methinks that it would be more polite if your
attentions were confined to those that are with you, and
not permitted to go wool-gathering."

Laughing the charge away, and assuring my com-
panion that in such company it was impossible it could
be just, I took her foot in my hand, and with a spring
almost imperceptible, she glided into the saddle.

Our distance was fully three miles ; a portion of the

176 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

way was woodland, marked only by a bridle-path, and
gates and stiles were numerous, whenever our course
crossed arable land. Necessarily there were many
delays ; I fear that many delays were made that were
unnecessary. In fact neither pony, greyhound, nor
ourselves appeared in the slightest hurry to reach home.
The setting sun, the dark clouds with their fiery linings,
that indicated the place where he had retired, the dron-
ing bettle, the frisking rabbit, all made their impres-
sions, on myself at least, who ever had an intense love
of nature. For many minutes I had not spoken, no
want of courtesy to my companion ; but my meditation
was interrupted by the question, "What were my
thoughts ? "

Scarcely could I explain them, consequently I pre-
varicated and invented a reply, that before long the
time must come when I must leave home and those I
loved for other scenes. Here I was interrupted, and in
a most hesitating voice, my companion asked, "Was
she included in the number ? " What could I say but
yes ? and to my surprise, as she held out her soft, white,
small hand for me to press my lips to, in language low
but clear, she murmured with an expression of love, " I
will never forget you."

Thus ended our journey ; a few minutes after I lifted
her from the saddle, and she disappeared to change her
attire before we all sat down to tea.

Commonplace as the words were that she used, I
thought and thought of them again and again ; for
either the feeling with which she spoke them, or the
intonation of her voice, caused me to hope that what

PHILIP UPTONS STORY. 177

she had said was no set form of speech, but expressed
the feelings of a truthful nature.

Ten o'clock at length arrived, how much too soon it
came ; for no evening of my previous life had ever fled
so rapidly, nor had the time of my departure ever
appeared so objectionable ; but go I must.

I had two miles to walk, and my father insisted on
all being home by half-past ten. I did not dread being
locked out, but I did fear his anger if his orders were
disobeyed, for military men of the school of fifty years
ago inherited one of the vices of our soldiers who served
in Flanders.

The old gentleman's bark was worse than his bite ;
but he did bark tremendously. I fortunately was
punctual, and therefore did not at this time incur the
penalty of transgression.

From that day I became lazy and indolent. My
father, who intended me for the army, was annoyed, as
he was particularly anxious that I should pass a good
examination, so naturally, when I would not listen to
his admonitions, he became cross. Governors may
appear sometimes to be hard upon a fellow ; but, by
Jove, believe me, they are invariably in the right. I
know mine was, anyhow.

The fact is, I believe the pretty governess had turned
my head, and I would neither listen to reason nor any-
thing else. So the old gentleman got more and more
annoyed, till there was a regular breach between us.

When I look back on those days now, my conduct to
my father seems inexcusable, for although he was
occasionally a little strict in discipline, there never was

I 78 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

a kinder-hearted soul in the world. It is all very well,
by Jove, for youngsters to put on airs and refuse to be
submissive to control ; but let them leave their parents'
roof-tree, and go out into the world among strangers, and
they will soon learn the mistake they have committed.
New friends and acquaintances may be picked up every
day, but a father or mother never can be replaced.

Well, I thought myself very badly used, so in an evil
hour I made up my mind to run away from home. On
this resolution I acted at once. At eleven at night,
while the house was sunk in darkness and repose, I
packed up a simple change of clothes and stole forth.

Whether or not the noise caused by my tread on the
gravel awoke the gardener who lived at the lodge, I
know not ; but ere I had gained the gate I was arrested
by his powerful voice, warning me that if I did not halt
he would give me a doze of slugs from his blunder^y/z,
as he called it, while sotto voce he asked some one who
accompanied him, but whom I could not see, for both
were buried in the thick leaves of a laurel, " whether he
had not better, to make all sure, take a shot him."

" No, father," was the response ; " not unless he tries
to run off."

By the voice I recognised that this kind speech was
made by Nancy, a ruddy, stout, good-looking girl, the
factotum of her parent, and who accompanied him on
all extraordinary occasions, whether it were to fair or
market, or to detect boys robbing the orchard.

" No, Nancy ; I never ran away from you yet, though
often after you, and I am not going to change my ways
now," I called out.

PHILIP UPTON'S STORY. 179

" Father, father, it's Master Philip ; for the love of
heaven, point your musket another way, she's loaded to
the muzzle, and might go off at any minute."

But the old man, who was rather deaf, and did not
hear my voice, refused to believe his daughter ; and out
of sheer obstinacy, was about to fire, when the stalwart
girl seized the blunderbuss ; and in the scuffle, sure
enough, it did explode, bringing almost a cart-load of
sticks out of a neighbouring tree. Faithful old Robin
was now harmless, and apologised most amply for the
share he had in my discomfiture, having all along
believed that I was one of the thieves who had lately
visited the garden.

" But where are you going, Master Philip, at this hour
of the night ? "

" To shoot rabbits," for I preferred not to make him
cognisant of my future movements.

" To shoot rabbits, and that bundle with you ; I'm
not just so blind as I look. It's from home you are
going, and it's many a sore heart you'll leave in the
house up there. Go back, young master ; what's done in
haste is too often repented at leisure. Go back, I say."
And to his were joined his daughter's entreaties.

The daughter left us, I thought, to return to the
lodge, and the old man walked a short way with me.
One moment he regretted he was not young enough to
go with me, in the next he importuned me to change
my mind. I suppose it ever will be so ; but there are
few so devoted and sincere as old servants ; true, occa-
sionally they may presume, but even when they do so,
it is done with a good motive.

l8o TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

After having shaken hands with the old man, and
received his blessing, I hurried on my route, but had
scarcely gone a hundred yards when I was joined by
Nancy in years gone by, both a companion and con-
fidante. All I could say would not prevent her carry-
ing my bundle for a " bit of the road," as she termed
it. With a woman's shrewdness she suspected what
was the cause of my departure, but delicately refrained
from touching on the subject.

For five long miles that affectionate girl bore my
burden. It was ungallant to permit her to do so, but
to confess the truth, I knew Nancy's strength, and very
much fear if I had attempted to contest the point, I
should have got worsted in the battle. We were now
half way to the seaport that was my destination. So I
insisted on her returning ; but, before we parted, some-
thing to remember her by was shoved into my hand,
with injunctions that the little package was not to be
opened till I was far away. When a hundred miles
severed us, I did so. It was a sovereign and two half
crowns. Poor girl, many a day it must have taken her
to save so large a sum. It was her all I doubt not, and
how freely had she parted with it. Although but a
gardener's daughter, one who could but imperfectly read
and write, the manner in which she bestowed her offering,
was worthy of the best bred dame in the land. I used
the money. I had no hesitation in doing so, for I re-
quired it ; but wrote to my mother the circumstances,
and I mistake her loving heart and loving nature if she
did not return the amount twofold.

Nancy cried when I bid her adieu. I am not certain

PHILIP UPTON'S STORY. 181

that I did not; if I did, by Jove, I could not help it, such
a scene was deuced trying. However, of one thing
I am certain, that I experienced the first feeling of
weight of heart and doubt of the propriety of the course
I was taking when I watched her receding figure as she
trudged her homeward way. Next day I was en route
for Glasgow. I wrote home during the journey, and in-
formed my parents of my resolution, namely, to go
abroad for some years and seek a change of scene. My
answer was not exactly what I anticipated. Both par-
ents approved the step, more particularly my father,
and abundant funds were provided to assist me in carry-
ing it out. At such a course I was rather disgusted, for
I had not been allowed to make a martyr of myself as I
intended ; and, by Jove, it had more to do in curing me
of my calf-love than one could well imagine. I could
now see the matter in the right light, and again and
again I vowed I should never make such a fool of my-
self again.

What between the fumes of whisky toddy, the
numerous and wonderful stories told by the Scotch and
Irish drovers, and the smell of the cattle with which the
upper deck was crowded, I did not sleep much that
night on the Glasgow boat ; but when I arose in the
morning, I was quite an altered man.

It was not pleasant travelling in such boats, it is true ;
but, as a nauseous medicine will often effect a cure, so
this journey effectually banished all my love-sickness,
and I felt quite capable of going out to face the world,
and take care of myself while doing so. In course of
time I went across the Atlantic, and you remember how
we met.

CHAPTER XVI.
A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWICH.

JUST as Philip Upton had concluded relating his love
adventure with the fair governess, a rap was heard at the
door, and on our shouting " Come in," one of the most
impudent of the host of impudent Irish waiters entered
the room (who ever met a civil Irish waiter in the
United States?), bearing in his hand a letter. " If that's
the way you tell a man to come into your room after
he's civil enough to knock at your door, by jabbers it's
manners you want all to be taught," said Pat.

" True for you," said Philip, chaffing him, " if we had
only known that it was you, Mike, I should have opened
the door myself for you."

"Well, now, that's spoken like a gentleman. The
Boss sent me up with this letter, he says it's for one
ofye's."

Upton took the letter, read the address, gave a
regular fox-hunter hulloo, exclaiming afterwards, " it's
from the governor, by Jove it is ; excuse me for a
moment, till I learn what my venerable parent has to
say."

The epistle was not a short one, for it took him some
minutes to peruse, when done, he tossed it in the air,
and requested us to congratulate him.

" But explain, for what are we to congratulate you ? "
exclaimed we both, " you have not told us."

A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWICH. 183

" No, by Jove ! neither I have. Well, the paternal
informs me that I have been gazetted to the 2d
Fusiliers ; says I am to return home at once ; and
encloses a ticket by the West India mail line from the
Isthmus to Southampton, and a letter of credit for no
end of tin to pay incidental expenses."

I cannot say for Serge, but I could not help wishing
such a downfall of luck would occur to me. When I say
this, the reader must not for a moment imagine that I
would have wished to deprive my friend of his good
fortune ; but I was getting sick of this roving life, more
especially as I saw no prospect of its termination. But,
however severe it might be to me, who had been
brought up in the country, how much more severely it
must have told on Serge, who had lived in a capital in
luxury, and all that a competency could give him ; still
I never heard him murmur, or even by his features ex-
press that he felt dissatisfied.

Nothing would satisfy Upton but that we must have
a glorious supper together, and we did. What it cost
goodness only knows, for everything was at sensation
prices in California in those days ; and ere we parted
he made us promise again and again that we would
visit him as soon as we returned to England. " I mean
it, by Jove, I do ; " he exclaimed, " here is the gover-
nor's address ; but if you are in London you can always
learn mine from Cox & Co., the agents in Charing
Cross ; remember it's a bargain, and if you don't keep it ;
well by Jove ! I'll never forgive you."

Although both of us thought Phil, as we now invari-
ably called him, rather eccentric, we had learned to

184 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

appreciate him for his straight-forwardness, and honour-
able kind-heartedness.

Two days after, the steamer, by which he was a
passenger, sailed, and we went on board to see him off.
Every person was coming west, none going east, so he
had a state room to himself. Ten minutes before the
ship got under way he took us down to show us what he
called his crib. When in it he shut the door, and turn-
ing round and looking us both in the face, his features
for the moment assuming a more serious expression
than I thought then capable of, he said, "You know
what I said the other evening about you both coming to
see me, I trust you will not forget the promise you both
made. I shall be deeply hurt if you do, and here he
hesitated I have got more money than I require, and I
who till lately was your partner, you know I was, am
aware of the capital left ; come now, to oblige me, to
oblige your old friend Phil, in fact I owe it to you and a
great deal more, for I never should have got to Frisco
without you, accept what I have enclosed in this en-
velope. Don't open it till I am gone, I have plenty
remaining, more than I want, and when you return to
Europe you can return it to me or not as you choose."

Soldatenkoff and myself at first demurred to accept-
ing the favour, our acquaintance with him was so short,
and he knew so little of us, besides we really a still had suffi-
cient for many a day to come ; but all was of no avail.
So when we left the ship Serge had the sealed envelope
in his pocket.

The whistle sounded for strangers to leave the ship ;
the decks were rapidly cleared of all who were not pas-

A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWICH. 185

sengers, and both bid adieu with one, the loss of whose
society broke up our little coterie, and made a great
blank to each of us. However, it seemed to tie Serge
and myself closer together. Our circumstances were
not dissimilar ; he had sufficient for all his require-
ments, I had at least a comfortable home, yet neither
wished to return till we had seen more of the world.

At this time all the world were rushing for the digg-
ings, ships lay in the harbour without crews, hotels were
frequently without servants, stores without clerks. No
one remained nearer the coast than the diggings that
could possibly get away, yet neither Serge nor myself
had any desire to visit the auriferous region. This may
have been caused by the rough and uncouth elements
that composed this exodus, for I believe the black-
guards, gamblers and thieves from every part of the
Christianised earth were assembled then in California.

A morning or two after Upton's departure, as Serge
was perusing the newspaper, he stopped and quietly
asked me what was a supercargo.

" Why ? " I enquired.

" Here's a vessel going away up almost to Russian
America, and she wants a supercargo as well as a
second mate. Now I thought if the duty of supercargo
was anything that I could do, with your knowledge of
ships and boats, for I am certain from your conversa-
tion that you know all about them, you might be able
to take the berth of second mate. If the work would
not be too hard, or dirty, or degrading, we might as
well see the North Pacific as not."

" A supercargo is the same as a purser or storekeeper,

1 86 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

doubtless you could perform the duties, but I am, I
fear, quite incompetent to take upon myself the position
of second mate."

" Well, there is no harm in making inquiry, the, name
of the craft is the Hulda Swick, and the advertisement
says she lies within hailing distance of the shore ; let us
pay her a visit, as well do that as anything else, unless
you have made a previous appointment."

" All right, we can at least go and have a look at her,
if she is inviting we can go on board."

We soon found the craft we were looking for ; she
was a fore and aft schooner of about one hundred and
eighty tons, more weatherly looking than remarkable
for speed, and evidently a new Englander from the lines
of her hull.

" Shall we go on board ? she's really a nice looking
comfortable schooner," I asked.

" Yes, certainly," responded Serge.

" Hulda Swich, ahoy, send a boat," I shouted.

" Aye, aye, Sir ! " was answered from her deck, and a
gig with a boy sculling soon after appeared coming
round her stern. In a few minutes after we were along-
side. A thin, sharp-faced, very sun-burnt elderly man,
about five feet six, took a great deal of trouble from the
deck to see that we got a hold of the man -ropes, a
good deal more than I thought necessary; however,
such conduct was intended as civility, and so I took it,
therefore when I reached the deck, I touched my cap, to
salute it. The little man returned the compliment
intended for the craft with a spasmodic jerk of his
elbow ; by this time Serge was at my heels.

A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWICH. 187

" Can I see the captain," I enquired.

"Yes, I guess so," said the little man.

" Is he below ? " I added.

"Wall, no, I guess he's on deck," was his answer.

I looked round and saw no one but the very blackest
of darkies looking out of the caboose, grinning from ear
to ear.

" That's not him, is it ? " I said jocularly.

" Thunder," exclaimed the stranger, " to take that
black North Carolina nigger for the captain of the
Hulda Swich, that do beat old scratch ; look you here,
Uncle Abe, if you stick that mahogany phiz of yours
out of your own diggens, when gents come here visit-
ing, I'll go a thousand miles out of my course to sell
you under the hammer at Wilmington," and the black
face with a grin from ear to ear was withdrawn.

Seeing that our new acquaintance was somewhat
nettled at my joke, and wishing to propitiate him, I
explained that I had only called the black Captain for
fun, then turning my eyes full on him, said, " Of course
you are the Captain ; no one for a moment could doubt
that. You have a nice, tidy, weatherly craft, sir."

"Yes, I am boss here, and the schooner is good
enough, if you keep her off a lea shore. She's no great
pumpkins on a wind. Come below, gents, and taste my
apple-jack ; it's prime, and then we can talk business."
. Thus we adjourned to the cabin. It was as clean as
soap and water could make it, but without a particle of
ornament. On the table lay a violin and bow, also a
book of music ; from its appearance, I should say, of
the religious order. Thinking to keep up the conversa-

l88 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

tion and broach some pleasant subject for Serge
always left the talking to me, I said, " You are a
musician, I see, sir."

"By times I do get some music out of her, but
following the sea ain't by no ways a healthy life for
fiddles ; it's by long odds too relaxing."

At length the apple-jack was produced, when I
broached the subject of my visit He opened his eyes,
allowed the lower jaw to fall, and stared at us intently
for some minutes, without saying a word. At length
he exclaimed, " I think a bar or two would come in
here ! " and seizing the violin played half-a-dozen notes.
Having thus comforted himself, he laid the instrument
down, and exclaimed, " By the jumping Jupiter, who
would have thought it. To give me a charter, at the
very least, was what I thought you were after." Here
he would have given us another musical performance, if
the mate had not called down the hatchway that
another of the crew was missing.

At this the old skipper seemed to get considerably
calmer, and heaped anything but blessings upon the
gold field, and on the gratitude of the human family in
general, and sailors in particular. I think this interrup-
tion was in our favour, for immediately after he in a
quiet and less irascible manner asked me what I could
do. I told him. He then turned to Serge, who in-
formed him of his capacity to keep accounts, lists of
stores, cargo, etc., etc., and soon after all was settled
that we were to sail with him, and that if either party
should desire it, at the first port where a substitute
could be obtained the agreement should be cancelled.

A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWICH. 189

As we ascended the companion we heard him tell the
mate to get ready for sea to-morrow, for if they re-
mained another week there would not be a hand left to
man a boat, and that it cost more to live here a month,
than an entire year in other parts of the world. As we
were waiting by the gangway, the skipper could be
heard distinctly saying to himself, as he played excitedly
on his violin, " That I should live to see a Britisher my
second mate and a Russian super-cargo in my ship, by
the jumping Jupiter, this Californy is going to play
tarnation with the Union."

We returned on board early next day. Serge and I
were put in possession of a cabin in front of the pantry,
which certainly was clean. The first mate handed me
over my watch, gave me some hints on seamanship and
duties, and taking all things into consideration, I did
not feel quite so strange in my new position as might
have been expected.

That evening we were outside of the Golden Gate,
and stood away under easy sail for the north-west, so
as to give the land a good offing, for the coast here
is subject in autumn and spring to sudden and severe
squalls, which, if circumstances permit, it is well to
avoid.

As I anticipated, the Hulda Swich was a comfortable
dry craft, although a little lively ; but she was by no
means a clipper. Our crew were a strange mixed lot,
many of whom were Sandwich Islanders, the others,
with the exception of the lad who had brought us on
board, were bronzed, weather-beaten, and one might
almost say, a used-up lot. The mate accounted for

TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

this by saying that, "Any that were worth their salt
had run away in Californy."

The boatswain was a character. Nearly seventy
years old, yet as active as a man of thirty. He could
curse and swear, and did it on all occasions, unless
when the captain overheard him, when he would in-
variably cause him to stop by singing out, " Boatswain,
ahoy ! bottle them ere up to pay port dues with," then
to himself he would continue, " by the jumping Jupiter,
I believe that his foul mouth drives all the whales
away."

All this time a watch was kept by day on the fore-
top, yet not a whale was seen, and the skipper paced
the deck anxiously, or sawed away at his fiddle, and
made the quarter-deck unbearable by the doleful
sounds that came from the cabin. One day it blew
pretty hard, freshening up towards sunset, and all that
day the violin was scarcely for a moment out of his
hands, and the harder it blew the harder he scraped,
till it was hard to tell whether he or the wind in the
rigging made the loudest or most discordant sounds.

At length we reached a point, frequently, made a
rendezvous of by American whalers, where the skipper
expected to be able to obtain some additional supplies ;
but whether from the lateness of the season, or the
badness of the weather, not a sail was to be seen, so
after standing off and on for twenty-four hours, we
altered our course and stood north by east. Here we
got a sharp blow, but with the exception of making
the schooner livelier, we suffered no inconvenience. It
became evident to Serge and myself that with all our

A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWICH. 191

captain's eccentricities he was a capital seaman. Not a
thing escaped his eye, and there was not a duty on
board, from making a splice, reefing, or cutting out or
making a sail, in which he could not instruct the ignor-
ant. The stupidity of the Kanackas would have tried
any other man living, but he never lost his temper, but
unpicked and re-made the same splice sometimes a
dozen times for their instruction. In an unfortunate
moment for Serge, he overheard him say something
about playing the piano. " Pi-a-n-o, said the skipper,
you play the pi-a-n-o, guess then you can play the
fiddle." On this being acknowledged, it was sent for,
and my friend certainly produced, considering the
instrument, capital results. The captain was in
extacies, and Abe the cook frantic, till the former told
the latter that he would take him to Wilmington and
sell him at the hammer. Serge after this, much to his
annoyance, was often requisitioned to play.

The first land we now made was the Queen Charlotte
Islands, which are in about the same latitude as Lon-
don ; but with this difference, that the former are
situated in the North Pacific Ocean, the other in the
North Atlantic, their longitude being just over one
hundred and thirty west The group consists of three,
and it is currently believed that all are admirably
suited for growing cereals, or in other words, making
good agricultural farms, as the temperature in summer
is even, and the winters never severe ; doubtless this is
caused by a current that breaks upon their shores, per-
forming in this distant region for the Queen Charlotte
Islands what the gulf stream of the Atlantic is supposed

TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

to do for the British Isles. However, the interior of
this country is comparatively a terra incognita ; for its
inhabitants, the Hydah Indians, are well known by
whalers and explorers as the most dangerous savages,
for their combination of treachery with courage, to be
found in this distant part of the earth.

The Indians inhabiting the neighbouring islands and
mainland are in constant dread of them ; for in their
immense cedar canoes capable frequently of carrying
thirty or forty persons they will go to sea in almost
any weather, even when the fiercest storms are raging.
They are enabled to do this with safety by attaching
inflated seal skins to the external gunwale of their
crafts, which prevent the canoes either becoming water-
logged or upset.

Our trade with Hydah had to be accomplished with
the greatest caution, only a few of the natives being
permitted to come alongside at a time.

The principal article of barter we obtained was the
skins of the sea otter, a beautiful steel-grey fur, probably
the most valuable peltry in the world. In China it is
in immense demand, being worn only by the highest
class mandarins, in fact none but the wealthiest inhabi-
tants of the Celestial Empire could afford to purchase
it ; for when in prime condition, and thoroughly tanned,
each hide is worth about one hundred pounds sterling,
and as this animal is but little larger than the common
otter, to line throughout a cloak as ample as those
generally worn by the aristocracy of the Tartar race, a
great number of these skins would be required.

The sea otter is remarkably timid, still these stealthy

A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWICH. 193

savages manage to shoot the animals with their primi-
tive bows and arrows, or not unfrequently to spear
them when asleep upon the rocks.

Of late years these amphibious animals have been
becoming very scarce in comparison with former times,
for the white traders and sealers, knowing well the
enormous profits to be derived from their capture, de-
vote much time to the pursuit. The method they
adopt to secure such valuable prizes is singular, and not
unworthy of notice. The haunt of the sea otters having
been discovered, several boats silently coast the shore
till one of them is discovered, when several guns are
fired, even although the game is beyond range. The
moment the frightened animal hears the report, it dives,
and the boats hurry in the direction it is supposed to
have taken ; at last, exhausted from want of air, it rises
to the surface, when the nearest boat again fires, and
the otter again dives ; this process is continued till the
worn-out creature is unable to escape, when it is
dragged on board and killed. Of course the length of
the chase might be much abridged if it was shot on the
first available opportunity for doing so ; but as the fur is
so valuable, and this manner of killing the animal would
certainly injure it, its death is seldom accomplished by
the bullet.

In front of all the houses in the Hydah village which
we visited is erected an enormous post, not unfrequently
fifty feet high, or even more, carved over in the most
extraordinary manner, doubtless, in some way, these
posts are connected with their religion, as they never

have been known to part with them ; but in what way,

IQ4 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

and what the characters represent, the outer world, I
believe, is in total ignorance.

As in the canoes that came alongside there were both
males and females, we had a good opportunity of judg-
ing of their appearance. In complexion, they are much
lighter than the Indians of the Continent ; and many,
more especially among the women, had pretensions to
good looks ; but when the observer learns that they are
cannibals, he cannot but regard them with loathing.

As our skipper had no great faith in the Hydahs,
every evening we tripped our anchor and stood out to
sea, till the return of daylight, as a precaution against a
night attack. As it was well known that many vessels
had been surprised upon this coast and their entire crews
murdered, and as our schooner was neither large nor
numerously manned, such a course was absolutely
necessary. However, our visit terminated without un-
pleasantness. We secured a good number of skins, a
quantity of strange curios, carved out of sea ivory, bone,
or slate, in fact all that these primitive people had to
part with. So bidding adieu to Hydah, we set sail for
the north, hoping soon to fall in with whales or seals.

In respect to the capture of whales, our captain
expressed an opinion that we had been singularly
unlucky, for although he had been several times over
the same waters, he had never previously traversed
them without securing several ; however, he was not
discouraged, but expressed a conviction that he would
make up the deficiency among the seals.

Our course after leaving the Queen Charlotte Islands
was north by west, and the wind being fair but

A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWICH. 195

moderate, we logged on an average six and a-half to
seven knots an hour ; but time commenced to hang
most tediously on our hands, for one day seemed but a
repetition of another, and as far as we could see, there
was no prospect of a termination of the voyage. On a
beautiful night when the moon was full, and afforded
sufficient light to read by, while my thoughts had
wandered back to my home in Northumberland, some
one clapped me on the back. I turned round hurriedly
to see who it was, and found Serge before me.

" A penny for your thoughts," said he.

" Produce your money and it is a bargain."

No coin being forthcoming, for copper coins are not
known on the Pacific side of America, it was settled
that I should make confession, and he be my debtor till
he could settle the claim ; so I told him.

" That is rather strange," he answered, " for I have
been thinking so much of Hanover and Russia that,
turn which direction I chose, I could not sleep, so I
came up to join you. Is it not a splendid night ? and
just the one of all others to have a chat, particularly as
there is no one on deck but the look-out forward. Do
you know what I have been thinking ? we must cut this
as soon as possible."

" Yes ; I agree entirely in what you say, for a very
little of it goes a long way ; but when will that oppor-
tunity occur? I fear it is still distant. The only
chance I can see is, that should the skipper find no
whales up here, he will 'bout ship and run for the south-
ward, when he will be obliged to touch at some port
frequented by Europeans, either in China or the Malay

IQ6 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

Archipelago, for fresh provisions, or possibly steer for
some of the groups 'of islands in the middle of the
Pacific, where we can doubtless find a homeward bound
ship, and bid adieu to this life."

"That's true, for I have been taking stock to-day,
and the beef will not last at the utmost above two
months.".

"Beef! horse, you mean. I do not think there is a
pound of the former on board the ship."

" Come,. now," answered Serge ; "you are making fun
of me."

" Not a bit ; if you listen I will tell you my authority
for my conjecture. The mate of the vessel in which I
crossed the Atlantic, when I was on the bridge with
him during the first watch, two days after we had
crossed the tail of the Great Bank of Newfoundland,
pointed out the direction of Sable Island, the most
dangerous obstacle in the way of vessels crossing the
Atlantic ; in fact, he said that its shores from end to
end about thirty miles were strewn the entire length
with wrecks. On making further inquiry in reference
to this dangerous sand-spit, he stated that it was un-
inhabited by men, but contained herds of wild ponies,
which were killed annually by some of the inhabitants
of Halifax, salted down, and sold to the whalers for
beef; and if my knowledge of anatomy is correct, I feel
certain that it is horse, not beef, that we eat daily. It
does not so much matter, for the brutes probably are
young, and of course have never been worked."

" No ; that makes a wide difference. Why horse beef
should not be as good as ox beef, I cannot see, if alike

A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWICH. 197

treated ; but to have to eat an old worn-out, galled, half-
starved diligence or omnibus horse, eugh ! Unless I was
starving, I am certain I could not do it. But Bologna
sausages are not bad in this way ; still I have heard
that they are made from mules."

Thus far our conversation had gone, when the watch
forward came aft and reported the noise of breakers on
our weather-bow. And as I had orders to call the
skipper if anything unusual occurred, after having bid
Serge good-night, I went below to obey my instructions.
In a few minutes the old man, who always slept in his
clothes, tumbled up on deck, went forward, looked out,
and listened a long time, then told me to turn- up the
watch. Soon after our fore and aft canvas was braced
in, and we were standing to the eastward.

As the skipper passed me he said, " You had better
turn in youngster, for I shall keep the deck for the
remainder of the night, and if my ears don't deceive me
we shall have a hard day of it to-morrow among the
seals; don't you hear the critters roar? there now, that's
them."

I certainly did hear something resembling the roar-
ing of a bull ; but if I had not been told, I should
never have distinguished it from the sea upon a sunken
shoal.

When I came on deck in the morning at eight, the
schooner was again running free up an estuary, at the
head of which was good anchorage and protection from
any wind that might blow.

Never before had my eye rested upon such a desolate
looking place. There was not a patch of verdure to

198 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

relieve the monotony, only an immense jumble of
rocks, coated with sea weed, especially kelp, along the
water line, which fell and rose with the motion of the
sea, like hair of a dead man floating on the surface of
the waves. Truly it was a most forbidding looking
place ; such a one as none would visit from choice ; but
what place can be too forbidding for the toilers after
gold to frequent ?

But however forbidding this place might appear to
human beings, it was evidently not so to other repre-
sentatives of the animal kingdom ; for the rocks were
covered with seals, the surface of the inlets being
dotted in every direction with their wise sagacious-
looking heads, while innumerable sea -fowl, gannets,
gulls, terns, cormorants, and many other species too
numerous to mention hovered overhead or aligned
themselves along the face of the upper rocks. But the
roaring of seals and the screaming of sea-birds are not
lively sounds to listen to, more particularly when com-
bined with the moaning of the waves breaking on the
shore, still it could not be denied that it was music
truly appropriate to the surroundings.

At length the anchorage was nearly reached, the sails
were clued up, the schooner forged on with the impetus
of the way she carried till we were in the desired place,
when the anchor was let go, and we swung with about
fifteen fathoms of cable out.

The day was too far advanced to commence the
slaughter, so the remainder of it was spent in getting
up the boilers, fire-wood, etc., which were landed for the
better convenience of carrying out the filthy labour that

A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWICH. 199

was in store for us. I must say that I dreaded the
work before us, but "when the devil drives needs must."
Still there was one cause of thankfulness ; Serge's
duties would keep him on board, and thus his sensitive
nature would be prevented from undergoing an ordeal
that could not be otherwise than most trying to him.
About sunset, for the weather still continued lovely,
my companion and I went for a stroll to the eastward,
for some distance. Nothing was to be seen but birds,
birds, birds on every hand, their eggs being scattered
upon every nook and cranny. Soon we gathered
sufficient for the ship's company, and were about to
return for the shades of night were falling fast when
we discovered the wreck of a small vessel almost high
and dry. We went down and examined her ; appear-
ances told that she must have been there some time, for
the paint that once coated her sides had almost dis-
appeared, and the exposed timbers looked as if they
had been charred by the action of fire. Over her stern,
with some difficulty, we deciphered the name Katerina
of Peterpoulouski ; doubtless she therefore was one of
the Russian traders, that during summer make constant
trips from Asiatic Russia to American Russia, collect-
ing furs, fish oil, etc., from the aborigines of the re-
spective coasts. Close by on a strip of sand was a
stove-in boat and a grave, the latter marked by a rude
wooden cross. Truly it was a lonely resting-place for
the mortal remains of anyone. A water-logged or
wrecked and stranded vessel is a sad thing to look
upon, and with the addition of this grave was even
more so : both of us felt alike upon the occasion, for on

2OO TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

our homeward route we scarcely exchanged a word.
We met the skipper on the beach ; he was in high glee
at the prospect of securing an abundance of seal oil,
and when we approached good-naturedly asked us what
we had seen, and when he was informed, instead of
participating in our feelings, went almost into extasies
over what he designated a " God send ; " for in the
wreck he saw an abundant supply of wood for firing, a
necessary commodity for boiling out the oil, and which
not unfrequently runs short.

Next morning broke clear and bright ; not a breath
of wind fanned the waters ; even the sails, which had
been spread out to dry, hung listlessly against the
masts, and our piece of drooping bunting embraced the
mainmast as if grieving over its temporary idleness.
Up in these high latitudes during the fine weather of
summer the climate is truly delightful, and so bracing
and elastic that you almost feel that you inhale health
in every breath ; but note the contrast when winter
comes. Storm succeeds storm, daylight lasts but six
or seven hours, and the snow-storm tears along with
such power and velocity, that the trembling reeling
ship can scarcely show a foot of canvas. Nothing is
perfect : good and evil go together, so if you have a
charming summer here, woe betide those who have to
make a winter quarter of it.

Our skipper, who seemed to retain his high glee,
enjoined all to make as little noise as possible, so that
the seals might congregate without alarm at their
favourite resting places. This they invariably do about
eleven o'clock to bask in the sun, and sleep for several

A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWICH. 2OI

hours; their fishing operations being principally con-
ducted in the fore and afternoon.

At half-past ten orders were given to clear the boats
for service ; in half-an-hour they were reported ready,
then the captain took his place in the gig, the mate in
the jolly-boat, and both silently started for the entrance
of the inlet. Here they separated, the skipper going
east, the first officer west.

As good luck would have it, I went with the boss,
who so far has always been more than civil to me, in
fact, I almost believe he has a liking for myself and
Serge ; but he is not demonstrative, so his regard, if he
has any, will probably last. I have forgotten to men-
tion that each boat's crew was furnished with a most
formidable weapon, a hickory stick or cane, a little
longer than an axe handle, with an iron bullet about
two pounds in weight at its lower termination. This
formidable weapon, which was designated the butcher,
was employed to perform the same duties as a pole-axe,
and in the hands of a powerful man could wield a fear-
ful blow, in fact nothing short of a Cape buffalo could
fail to fall under it.

As I was a novice in the work before me, the captain
in a whisper gave me my instructions, while the boat
glided silently along the shore. These were, that upon
landing where the seals were, to attack first those
nearest the water, and to aim my blow at the junction
of the snout and forehead, at the same time to take
care that none of the old fellows laid hold of my leg, as
they most assuredly would make their teeth meet in
whatever they gripped.

2O2 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

After proceeding about a mile from where the other
boat left us, we reached our hunting ground, a long,
flat, slightly projecting reef. Silently we stole along
under shelter of the rocks and kelp, till a suitable land-
ing place was reached ; before us and on each side lay
innumerable seals, all apparently asleep, and therefore
ignorant of our presence.

In a moment all were ashore, except a lad and the
skipper, who remained to take charge of the boat.
The latter in a quiet voice inquired if we were all
ready, and had got our butchers, and when we replied
in the affirmative, he exclaimed, "At them then, and do
your darndest." With a shout we started over the
slippery sea-weed, each making for the nearest animal,
but the noise we made had awakened the herd, and
from previously being as still as death, it became an
animated crowd of struggling, wabbling, terrified
creatures. Their mode of progression to gain their
favourite element is very much like the struggles of
a fish that has dropped off a hook at the moment after
landing it. One resolution apparently prompted all,
namely to gain the sea, the old stumbled over the
young, the large over the small ; none gave place, all
were prompted by one desire to save themselves from
being cut off from their retreat.

In the meantime our cruel work had commenced. I
had no time to watch my comrades, but dealt blow after
blow, right and left, each stroke seeming instantly to
kill. But so far we had only females and young to
deal with, the bulls being generally further inland ; but
the alarm brought them now down upon us, and

A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWICH. 203

almost to my cost I found heavier hitting was neces-
sary. One big, old fellow I obtained a clear blow at, a
blow an observer would have thought sufficient to have
crushed his skull ; still it appeared only for a moment
to delay his progress. In my anxiety to repeat it my
feet slipped and down I came, almost on the top of the
enraged brute. I certainly expected to feel his tusks,
but by dint of rolling, twisting and squirming, I suc-
ceeded in getting clear of my antagonist without injury.
In the scuffle I had dropped my club ; for some
moments I could not find it, but at last when I re-
covered it, the antagonist who had discomfited me
was over the ledge and once more in his favourite ocean.

I firmly believe that at least seventy seals were killed
on that occasion ; and but for my accident I could have
added two or three more to the number.

It was cruel, abominable work ; from beginning to
end, there was no excitement, because there was no
danger ; while the wonderfully expressive eyes and
dog-like faces of the animals made you feel as if you
were running a muck among a kennel of our canine
favourites.

Men brought up to be familiar with such scenes think
nothing of it ; they leave their homes, wander abroad,
sail over miles and miles of ocean to obtain wealth, or
at least a livelihood, and at every blow they strike only
think of the advantages to be derived by themselves
from the indiscriminate and wholesale slaughter. If I
had consulted my own feelings I should have much
liked to have remonstrated, but such a course would
have been simply an act of folly in me, a subordinate ;

204 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

moreover, was not the craft fitted out and the crew
employed to carry on this disgusting, sanguinary trade?

One such hunt is but a repetition of another, so it is
needless to describe others ; here we remained till the
seals became so scarce and shy that further pursuit of
them ceased to be remunerative.

The more I saw of the poor seals, the greater became
my liking for them. On several occasions when I could
be spared, Serge and I would leave camp and seek
the -shelter of some rocks that overlooked one of their
favourite resting places. Frequently we got within less
than fifty yards of them without our presence being
known, so that their natural habits on such occasions
were not disguised. When sleeping or resting they
appear to adopt indifferently every attitude, except
that of standing on their heads and tails. First they
will lie on one side, then on the other, often on their
stomachs and very frequently on their backs. It is
most amusing to note with what gracefulness they
will take their flipper which is not unlike a lady's fan
when extended, and with the extreme end scratch
themselves as gracefully as such an action can be per-
formed. When the wind is cold or sharp they, with the
females and young, will gather together in groups, like
a litter of young pigs in a straw yard, heads, tails, or
cross ways indifferently, to enjoy the heat emanating
from their companion's bodies. The females are
apparently model mothers, full of affection and fore-
thought for their progeny, and the children seem good and
bidable babies. The old bulls, although I do not think
them unkind to their children, seem rather apathetic

A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWICH. 205

to their requirements, but are exceedingly jealous hus-
bands, and have fearful battles with each other.

Some of the hides of the old males are frequently
scored with the scars of wounds, doubtlessly obtained
in combats with their rivals.

During day, when the weather is fine, particularly if
the sun is strong, they come on land to rest and sleep,
but in stormy weather, particularly during night, their
loud deep voices can be heard competing with the
thundering surf for supremacy.

The greatest labour we had after the slaughter was in
gathering the slain and taking them to the boiling
place; for some of the carcases must have weighed four
or even five hundred pounds, but for the slipperiness of
the sea-weed and their glossy smooth coats, this would
have been almost impossible without dismembering
them, when they had been killed some distance from the
water.

To obtain the oil they are simply boiled down, the
surface'being constantly skimmed with a large flat spoon,
and placed in receptacles prepared to receive it. Of
course much filth gets introduced in this primitive
mode, but before the oil is placed in the public market,
I am told it is refined in establishments constructed for
the purpose, when it becomes as clear as olive or any
other oil.

After we had been about a week on the seal grounds,
Serge and I started off to the eastward one afternoon to
collect eggs and explore the interior of the island. We
had not been a quarter of an hour gone, when he called
my attention to what appeared to be a flag staff, if it

206 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

was not, it certainly bore a wonderful resemblance to
one. After much trouble and an immense amount of
climbing, we reached it, and as Serge supposed, so it
turned out. It had evidently formed the fore or main
topmast of some small craft, at its summit was a block,
but the signal halyards and bunting which it had
doubtlessly flown were removed. Around its base was
nailed a piece of canvass on which was printed with tar,
in Russian, Katarina Petropoulouski, wrecked 8th June
1850, crew rescued from here by American whaler
Naragansit of Salem, Ms., bound for Columbia River,
25th September 1850. Without Serge's aid I could not
have made this out ; but of course the characters were
quite familiar to him. What a narrow escape these un-
fortunates had of having to spend a winter here ; for
although possibly they might have found food, still the
weather was certain to be very boisterous, and fearfully
cold. On examining the locality, I thought I could
distinguish the trace of a path ; with great difficulty I
was able to follow it, when I discovered it led into a
precipitous ravine, in parts well covered with a stunted
growth of cedars ; further search discovered a cave with
a small stream passing by it. From numerous fragments
of crockery and ashes outside, and a quantity of dry
brush inside, we concluded that this had been the resi-
dence of the shipwrecked mariners during their compul-
sory residence in this out-of-the-way part of the earth.
Serge remarked to me that however beastly our own craft
was, with its horrid smell of grease, and everything you
touched smeared with it, it was a better lot than having
to stay three months in a forsaken place like this."

A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWICH. 2OJ

In his sentiments I could not help cordially agreeing;
but in the meantime we had forgotten the object of our
journey ; this, however, mattered little, for the days were
long, and we still had a couple of hours daylight before
us, and ten minutes would suffice to gather all the eggs
we could carry.

When we got back to the boiling place, we found
the old skipper comfortably smoking his pipe over the
fire.

" Well, lads," he enquired, " what luck. Did you see
any bar (bears), for the last time I ran down here, a
regular old filibusterer, most as big as an ox and as
white as snow, nearly fixed my flint. There's no deny-
ing that fact ; you see I drew a herd on him, but the
piece missed fire, and if it hadn't been for that nigger
there, fetching him a crusher with his axe at the but of
the ear, he would have put me in for a rough and
tumble fight that would have beat any of those per-
formances I had ever figured in. I don't as a rule
hanker after niggers, but since then I have kinder taken
to that ebony specimen of a North Caroliner."

If the skipper had, as he said, kinder taken to the
cook, I wonder how he would have treated him if he
had not ; for nothing Abe could do appeared right, and
at least three or four times a day you would hear him
told, "by the jumping Jupiter, I'll go a thousand miles
out my course to run you into Wilmington and sell you
to the highest bidder." By this time we had learned to
know that the old man's bark was worse than his bite.

Having got our oil slung on board and safely stowed
under hatches, we put to sea with a fair wind, and stood

2O8 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

to the south-east ; a look-out was constantly kept during
daily light in the fore-top, still not a whale was reported.
Although this bad luck was hard on the skipper, Serge
and myself could not help chuckling over it, for our
sealing experience had given us quite a surfeit of grease
and oil, and we longed most anxiously for the day
when we should get released from the schooner ; not
that we were unkindly treated, but that we were both
most thoroughly out of our element. If I may hazard
an opinion, my companion more so than myself. The
skipper, it is true, was a bit of a bear at times, but his
ebullitions of temper were but short-lived ; and as for
the mate, although I believe him to be an excellent
seaman, he was a quiet retiring man, who found fault
with no one, unless the crime committed had been
excessively glaring. Thus we often consoled ourselves
by thinking how much worse our position would have
been if we had had two swaggering, foul-mouthed
bullies as our senior officers.

Still no luck, if I except the fineness of the weather.
The captain, with his glass under his arm, walked the
deck from night till morning, periodically halting to ask
the man on the top whether he was asleep or not ; but
all this did not bring whales. This monotonous work
had continued for over two weeks. We had sighted
Mount Fuseama, and passed Cape Itsee on the coast of
Japan, when the welcome voice of the look-out shouted,
"There they blow on the starboard bow." In a
moment every one was in the rattlings on the look-out,
and true enough a shoal of whales could be distinctly
seen about three miles off. The skipper was all alive

A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWICH. 2 09

now ; however active and excitable he had been before,
he was now doubly so. " Look alive, lads ! now, clear
the boats," he shouted ; " be spry my beauties, now's
our chance to make up for lost time ; " and the crew, to
do them justice, did their utmost to attend to his orders.
Already one boat was in the water, and the other swung
out ready to be lowered, when the skipper returned to
deck from the cabin, where he had been for a moment,
and to the surprise of all, ordered the boats to be
brought upon deck again and secured. This was done
somewhat tardily, but when it was accomplished, he
ordered sail to be shortened and all made snug for bad
weather. " It's like our luck," he said ; " never had
such a cruise as this afore ; barometer going down at a
two-forty pace, and, by gum, it's my opinion we'll have
it blowing big guns before we're an hour older, or I
know nothing of this coast."

At this moment the boatswain passed, swearing as
usual, and the skipper turned upon him in a moment.
" Shut up you cantankerous, cadaverous, hoary-headed,
old sinner; by the jumping Jupiter, I believe you are
the Jonas on board this ship ; if I thought you would
not disagree with one of them ere whales, I believe I'd
drop you overboard."

It was but a short time before the captain's prediction
was verified ; for it soon commenced to blow, and by
midnight the storm had increased to a hurricane. For
two days this continued, and save for the inconvenience
and the confounded caterwauling of his fiddle, there was
nothing to be grumbled at, for the little schooner
behaved splendidly. On the third day we again stood

2IO TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

in and sighted the land ; this was pronounced to be the
entrance to Bungo Channel, when again the mast-head
look-out sung out, "There they blow on the weather
beam." The weather was now fine, so down went the
boats, and in a few moments the crews were pulling
their best to get first blood.

On account of my being an inexperienced hand at
this work, I took an oar, the boatswain had the steering
oar and command of the boat, and one of the Kanakas
in the other bow was in charge of the harpoon. We had
a long and hard pull of it, right into the wind's eye ; but
whether our crew was better or our boat lighter, we
beat the mate's party by several hundred yards.

At length we were in the school ; an immense sperm
whale, over sixty feet in length, I should imagine, was
before us. " Way enough, my lads," shouted the boat-
swain, " and be ready to back water the moment I tell
you." The boat, from the way she was under, forged
ahead ; the harpooner stood with a coil of line and his
weapon poised in his hand ; a moment afterwards the
opportunity for throwing it arrived, and it entered deep
into the flank of the huge mammoth of the deep. In an
instant we were backing water, while the huge stricken
beast lashed the sea for a moment into a mass of foam,
and then dived, running out the line from the tub with
such rapidity, that when it crossed the bulwarks one of
the hands had constantly to keep it wet with a stream
of water. If the line had caught at this moment the
boat must have been turned over, or if it had, by acci-
dent, become twisted round any of the crew's limbs, his
life most assuredly would have paid the penalty. Such

A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWICH. 2 1 1

accidents do occur, and in a crowded boat it requires
much care and experience to avoid them. Another
great danger, and one by which many lives have been
lost, is approaching the whale too far back, and thus
endangering its striking the boat with its tail the
moment it feels the harpoon. From the immense
number of fathoms run out, it was evident we had got
fast to a most powerful animal, so the mate deemed it
necessary to come to our assistance ; but the strain upon
the poor struggling creature began to tell ; slower and
slower the line passed over the gunwale, and at last
ceased to be run out, when the slack was taken in and
replaced in the tub with the greatest care. However,
while doing this, you must always stand prepared to let
it run again ; for as the angler with a hooked salmon
never knows when the fish will take it into its head to
commence another run, so it is with the whale. A strain
being brought to bear upon the line, the boat was rush-
ing through the water with extraordinary velocity.
This is also a perilous time, and the skill of the steerer
is taxed to the utmost. So far, everything had been
done in thoroughly workman-like style, for the boat-
swain was evidently an old and experienced hand, and
never looked so thoroughly at home as he did on this
occasion. Firmly braced, he stood in the stern-sheets,
his eyes fixed ahead, a determined expression on his
face, and his lips tightly compressed, while the wind
blew out to its full extent his long snow-white hair.
Never in my life have I been engaged in a scene more
exciting, or one in which the power, skill, and, I may
say, the audacity of man is better exemplified. It is

2 I 2 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

impossible to say exactly how long the whale was
under the surface, possibly ten minutes, probably more ;
however, at length it came to the surface ; coil after coil
of line was rapidly stowed away, till we had much
decreased the distance between it and ourselves. In
the meantime the other boat was doing its best to come
up with the chase to deliver a harpoon ; but they had a
long tedious row before they succeeded. When they
did, down went the unfortunate creature again, carrying
out line with a rapidity almost equal to its first effort ;
but on this occasion it did not so long remain under-
neath, and the efforts to break loose, probably from now
having the resistance of two boats to contend against,
were much reduced. Foot after foot the line was taken
in and coiled away, closer and closer we approached our
prey, when the mate threw his lance, a much longer and
sharper instrument than the harpoon, and intended for
killing, with admirable effect, for the whale lashed the
water in a paroxysm of pain, till the surface was one
mass of blood and foam. Again another and another
lance was thrown, momentarily the struggles and efforts
to escape became weaker, till, with a final effort, and
three or four dashes of its enormous tail, the monster of
the deep yielded up life.

The schooner, which had been beating to windward
all this time, so as to be near at hand when the finale
came, now bore down upon us. The immense carcass
was made fast to her side. The skipper was in great
glee, Abe was ordered to provide supper at once for
all hands, and the captain had the courtesy to ask the
mate and myself to join him at his meal.

A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWICH. 213

But there was no rest after we had satisfied the
inward man ; the tackles were rigged up, the spates
and cutting lances were all brought on deck, and the
important operation of securing the blubber was
commenced.

This is done in the following way : two lines being
cut along the carcass, the hook in the tackle is made
fast to it, and as the hands haul on the rope, the spade
severs the blubber from the carcass ; thus the valuable
portion is brought on board in long strips. As one
part of the dead whale is thus skinned or stripped, the
carcass is canted to the right or left, so as to bring
above the surface those portions that formerly were
submerged.

Altogether it is disgusting work ; the atmosphere is
redolent of blubber, and soon every portion of the
ship becomes coated with it, and if possible the boiling
down is more loathsome still.

While the cutting up was taking place, one would
have imagined that every sea fowl in the North Pacific,
and every shark within a thousand miles had assembled
around us to participate in the anticipated feast. If
you threw on the surface a small fragment of the
whale's flesh, a hundred birds in a moment dashed at
it ; if a larger piece, fifty sharks in an instant rushed for
it. Some of the sharks were truly monsters, eighteen
or twenty feet long at the least, and so devoid of
timidity were they, that they would actually come
within a yard or two of the men at work on the car-
cass, and endeavour to tear off blubber or flesh, in fact
whatever they could lay hold of.

214 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

The largest shark both in length and girth, was par-
ticularly audacious. Several times he came within a
few feet of the old boatswain when he was cutting up.
The old man for some time appeared to take no notice
of him, but I felt certain he was only waiting for an
opportunity to give his unwelcome visitor a warning.
At length the opportunity occurred, and he gave him
a slash across the head with one of the knives that left
a wound of many inches deep and over a foot long
sufficient it would be supposed to kill him ; still he did
not leave us, but kept cruising about as if nothing had
happened.

It is surprising that the men at work on the carcass
are not carried away, for frequently they are only a few
inches above the surface of the water, nay at times even
it ; yet the captain assured me he never knew such a
thing happen. One thing is certain that the sharks
showed a certain respect for the men ; for if not why did
they not tear the whole whale away ? The men on the
other hand, particularly the old boatswain, did not care
a snap of their fingers for the sharks. I suppose the
reason of their immunity is that the flesh of the whale
is a favourite food with these monsters ; and that while
they have a prospect of procuring it, they care for
nothing else.

I mentioned the big shark that the boatswain cut at.
Many others were fearfully lacerated by the Kanakas,
still they did not appear to feel their wounds, nor did
the lesson teach them caution.

If an observer could be in a vessel that the blubber
had not to come on board, and afterwards be boiled

A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWICH. 2 I 5

down in, the cutting up of a whale and its attendant
sights would be well worth looking at.

Five minutes after the carcass had been cut adrift,
not a shark was to be seen ; what a battle royal there
must then have been among these monsters.

We killed two more whales in Bungo Channel farther
inland ; but bad weather setting in, we were, much to
the satisfaction of Serge and myself, obliged to stand
away to the southward. Provisions and water, more-
over, were both getting short ; so that the prospect of
our soon visiting a port was far from improbable.

We cleared the coast of Japan keeping well to the
eastward of the archipelago that projects from the
south-east corner of this magnificent group of islands,
and although under short canvass, for it now was the
typhoon season, we were soon off the coast of Formosa.
From hence the captain proposed going to Manilla ;
but circumstances altered his resolve, and Singapore
was decided on as our next anchorage, after which he
proposed cruising in the Southern Indian Ocean, for by
the time we reached the high latitudes in the southern
hemisphere, it would be well on in summer, and long
days and short nights would prevail.

Borneo, famous for the daring and brave exploits of
Sir James Brooke among its hordes of pirates, we just
sighted from here. We stood again to the eastward to
fetch up to the Straits of Malacca.

I must not forget here to mention a little incident
that occurred. I had resigned my watch at noon, and
as I had had but little sleep the previous night, I had
turned in to try and get a nap for an hour or two, when

2 1 6 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

the shout was raised of a man overboard. As I .rushed
on deck, I encountered Serge coming up also. The
schooner was at the time going about five knots an
hour, and in her wake was some one, evidently a most
indifferent swimmer, struggling in the water, while the
black curly head of uncle Abe, as he was always called
by the hands, could be recognised pushing with power-
ful strokes to the rescue. In the meantime the schooner
had been brought up into the wind, and all hands were
busy in launching a boat Some minutes elapsed before
this was effected, but in the meantime the cook had
reached the rapidly drowning man : for some moments
he held his head above water, so as to give him a
chance to breathe, for the unfortunate man had already
sunk twice, then dexterously passing him round he got
his hands upon his shoulders and thus supported him
till assistance arrived. A less dexterous and powerful
swimmer never would have succeeded in this task, for a
quarter of an hour must nearly have elapsed before
they were taken out of the water.

When they came alongside, the crew gave Abe a
cheer, and the captain turned to the first mate and
myself and relieved himself by saying, "Did not I
always tell you that I kinder hankered after that
nigger?"

The plucky old darkey came on board with the
usual stereotyped grin, and looked as if nothing out of
the ordinary routine of his duties had happened. Not
so, however, with the man he had rescued, who was so
exhausted that he had to be carried below.

The almost drowned man was the lad who had

A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWICH. 2 I 7

brought us on board at San Francisco, when we first
visited the Hulda Swich. He had been sent to the end
of the jibboom to stow the gib, and missed his footing.
One thing is certain that but for Abe's promptitude
the poor fellow would have become food for the
fishes.

Several times I had tried to gain the confidence of
this boy, but he was impenetrable and unimpression-
able ; he confessed to having no home or parents, but
where he came from I know not He was truly a waif
upon the waters of life ; and how many similarly cir-
cumstanced do those that travel about the world
meet.

About a hundred miles from Singapore we passed
through quite a fleet of the uncouth-looking crafts
which are used by the Bugis traders. All were de-
stined for the same port as ourselves, to which they
make annual visits in October or November. They
combine together for safety from the numerous piratical
Malay proas that swarm on the coast of Sumatra.
They bring to the British settlement native cloths,
gold-dust, and tortoise-shell, also the two great luxuries
of the Chinese, birds' nests and sea-slugs. The two
latter are much valued in Canton, and form with
sharks' fins the greatest luxuries of the higher class of
mandarins.

The birds' nests are those of a swallow, more pro-
perly known by the name of the Saligam swallow, which
builds its nest in the clefts of rocks in several of the
islets of the Malay archipelago. The substance that
these nests are composed of is a vegetable deposit that

2 I 8 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

floats upon the surface of the ocean, gelatinous in its
composition, which the birds gather, and plaster tier
over tier against the surface of the perpendicular rock
till a little ledge is made like half a saucer. The
gatherers of the nests are let down by ropes from
above, and as the descent is sometimes several hundred
feet deep, fearful accidents sometimes occur from the
rope breaking, as not unfrequently happens in the
Faroe Islands. The rent paid for the privilege of
gathering these nests in the places most frequented by
the birds is fabulous. It is quite a mistake to imagine
that there is anything repulsive or dirty in the appear-
ance of these nests, quite the reverse ; they are semi-
transparent, and look not unlike glue. But the sea-
snail, or beche-de-mer, is a horrible-looking thing, from
fifteen to eighteen inches long, and almost black in
colour. These snails are collected by divers, and how-
ever repulsive their appearance, they are far from con-
temptible as an article of diet.

But to come back to these Bugis traders ; they are a
troublesome lot to have anything to do with, if report
speaks true, and are very apt to use the kriss, or crooked
dagger, the common weapon of this part of the world,
on the slightest disagreement. Consequently the greater
part of the trade falls into the hands of the Chinese.
This information I received from the skipper, who has
frequently been in this neighbourhood before ; and who,
being in very good spirits, was unusually communi-
cative.

This is a busy place at two seasons of the year ; viz.,
when the monsoons change, for many thousands of

A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWTCH. 2 1 9

strange crafts from China, Assam, Burmah, and the nu-
merous and various groups of islands, then visit
Singapore ; and this is the only entrance to its
harbour.

In course of time, and very much to my satisfaction, we
at length dropped anchor in front of this charming and
healthy port. There are few prettier places to be seen
in the world than Singapore, as viewed from the water,
the white clean-looking houses and stores coming down
almost to the water's edge, while the background is
covered with the densest tropical vegetation, the most
conspicuous among the trees being the beautiful and
graceful cocoanut. Numerous islands also stud the
strait. Some of them are very minute, but from the
number of parasitic plants, and other shrubs that adorn
them, they form a most charming feature of the land-
scape. The water here is so transparent and bright,
that it makes a delightful contrast with the dark green
foliage and dusky rocks. We were soon surrounded
by boats of all shapes and sizes, from the tiny canoe
that bears but one occupant, and he probably a little
boy of eight or nine years of age, to the large bumboat
loaded with stores and fruits of every description. The
occupation of the owner of the little craft first men-
tioned is to dive after coins that may be thrown into
the water by those desirous of witnessing their expert-
ness in this art, that of the latter sort is to cheat and
swindle the uninitiated in the most bare-faced manner.
Serge, with the captain, mate, and some others, went on
shore immediately after the anchor was dropped, and I
should have liked to do so, but it being my watch, it was

22O TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

impossible. However, I submitted to my fate with a
good grace, for I knew that the skipper intended trying
to obtain a reinforcement to his crew ; and if he suc-
ceeded, my friend and I intended bidding adieu to the
Hulda Swich.

Serge, as he was a novice in marketing, had taken
with him Master Abe the cook. It did one's heart good to
observe the style of Abe's get-up, nothing could be more
gorgeous, only the general effect was slightly destroyed
by the uneven outline of the sides of his battered hat.
A Donnybrook fair Irishman's could scarcely have been
in a more disreputable state, while in his hand was the
most gorgeous rattan cane, with a large silver top and
silk tassels, that might have been coveted by any of our
Indian gentlemen who return to their native country
with torpid livers, enlarged spleens, or other ailments of
a similar description.

There is something to me uncommonly ludicrous
about the appearance of a well fed healthy darkey, yet
I have a liking for them, for I believe, that if well
treated, they are most faithful, affectionate creatures,
but Abe was no common darkey, and he knew it ; had
he not saved his skipper's life from a polar bear, and one
of the crew from drowning ? So if he did put on a
little side it was quite pardonable.

Although disappointed in not being able to have a run
ashore, I was successful in obtaining a supply of fruit,
for many of the boats that hailed us were loaded with
it almost to their gunwales ; and nowhere, I suppose, in
the earth can it be obtained in such great ' variety, and
in such perfection. The mangistien, in my estimation,

A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWICH. 221

ranks first, but as it will not grow over eight degrees
from the equator, is a fruit little known. It is about the
size of a large orange, the exterior being a thick cover-
ing of the consistency and colour of tan bark, and ex-
ceedingly bitter. Inside this rind is a number of snow-
white pieces resembling the divisions of an orange, their
flavour is so excellent that it is impossible to describe
it, being a delightful combination of sweet and acid,
with the most delicate flavouring of spice. Next comes
the shaddock, or pumalor, as it is designated here, an
immense orange, not unfrequently called in England,
" the forbidden fruit," as it is supposed to be identical
with that with which Satan tempted our first parents in
Paradise. Previously I had eaten shaddocks from the
West Indies, but they cannot for a moment be compared
with those of Singapore, which are certainly delicious.
The pine apples here are also remarkable for size and
flavour, and can be eaten in large quantities with com-
parative impunity. Beside these, are to be found innu-
merable species of bananas, rambutan, soursop, guava,
rose-apple, dookoo, and last, though far from least, the
popular durian. To Europeans, at first, the smell of
the durian is very repulsive, resembling a combination
of rotten eggs, assafcetida, and garlic, if such a combina-
tion can be imagined ; however, there are very few re-
sidents that do not in time overcome their prejudice
against it. The natives almost live on it, and nearly
all wild beasts, even those that are carnivorous, feed on
it. It is about the size of the unhusked cocoa nut, and
has a hard light green external husk, covered with short
sharp prickles. The pulp, which is yellow, and is the

222 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

portion eaten, contains several seeds about the size of a
domestic fowl's egg.

But hark to that din. Did ever mortal man hear the
like ; if he has been in America he can imagine it to re-
sult from all the hotel gongs being collected on one
spot and being beaten at the same time.

Casting my eyes to the norward, to see from whence
it originated, I perceived an extraordinary looking craft
slowly crawling up the straits towards the anchorage,
propelled by immense oars, and the almost exhausted
breeze. In Europe we have no type of vessel resemb-
ling this, and to our eyes it is so unship-shape, that one
cannot help wondering how human beings can be induced
to trust their lives at sea in such a lumbering ungainly
conveyance. Whatever its draft of water may be, there
is sufficient of the hull above the water-line, to make its
passage through the water on a breeze a moral impossi-
bility, and over all, where the bulwarks would be sup-
posed to be, there is an exaggerated network of planks
and beams resembling a rack on a hay cart ; while
on either side of the stern are painted two round white
circles, about the size of a football, to represent eyes.
On my asking a Chinaman in a sampan alongside what
they were for, his answer was, " Suppose no got eyes,
how can see ? " " Very true," I answered.

Again, and again, the fearful noise rises on the still
air, while numerous little pieces of lighted paper are
thrown overboard. " What is that for ?" I enquired of
my previous informant. " Oh, that, to Chin Chin Joss
for good passage," which, being translated, means to

A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWICH. 223

thank the devil for bringing them safely to the end of
their journey.

These junks make a voyage to and fro yearly.
Thus they come down with the northern monsoon, and
return with the southern one. Occasionally, if they
have remained late in the season, they get into bad and
adverse weather, when they lash a number of spars to-
gether and drift behind a floating anchor, on which the
waves break ; thus leaving the junk in a comparative
calm, not unlike an eddy on the margin of a rapid river.

These junks often carry valuable cargoes, and are an
especial prey of the Malay pirates, who are still
numerous in these seas, although much reduced in
number through the exertions of our men-of-war, and
that indomitably brave gentleman, Sir James Brooke,
Rajah of Sarawak.

But here .comes our ship's boat. " Man the gang-
way, and let down the hand-ropes, my lads," and in a
few minutes our people were on board.

As Serge passed me he whispered, " Come below as
soon as you can, I have something to tell you."

Rather inquisitive to know what it was, I soon found
an opportunity to hand over the watch to the first
officer, and dived down below decks to learn what my
friend had to tell. As I entered his cabin, Serge ex-
claimed, " Would you believe it, comrade, I have been
nearer than is pleasant being made food for the fishes,
or rather for the worms."

"Yes, of course I believe you, if you say so; but how
was it ? "

" Well, I had better start from the beginning ; you

224 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

don't mind bathing my arm, for I have got a slight cut
on it, nothing to speak of, still it has bled considerably.
A piece of sticking-plaster will soon put it all right ; "
and my friend showed me what appeared a deep wound
in the fleshy part of the arm below the elbow, nearly an
inch long.

" How did you get it," I exclaimed impatiently.

"Simply enough. When we had done our market-
ing, the captain and mate left us to go to a shipping
agent's, having previously informed me that the ship's
boat would leave for the schooner in an hour and a
half. Having so much time on my hands, I considered
what would be the most profitable manner of spending
it, and I resolved to visit the native quarter. The
exterior of a gaudy house attracted my attention. It
was thoroughly Chinese in architecture, and recalled
vividly the extraordinary pictures that puzzle us in
childhood, and which are so often seen on tea boxes
and old china. The door was open, and any person
who chose seemed to enter. I for the moment imagin-
ing it some place of amusement, was about to do like-
wise, when old Abe, the cook, whom I had not seen
since I left the captain, put his hand on my shoulder as
if to detain me, at the same time saying, ' That's
gambling house, more better not go in there.'

"But as I had heard a great deal about these Oriental
gambling houses, one of them was of all other things
what I wished most to see.

"On my telling Master Abe this, he informed me that
he would go also, to take care of me.

" The interior was not attractive ; for it was both

A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWICH. 225

dark and dirty, while strong fumes of opium pervaded
the by no means otherwise wholesome atmosphere.
The place was not crowded, still there might have been
sixty or seventy people in it, a number lying in bunks
smoking opium, others asleep, while the remainder
were either playing an intricate game with large dice
and a quantity of spills, or watching with intense
interest the proceedings of the gamblers. Among
others who were occupied in this game of chance, I
noticed a wild-looking Malay. His eyes were so
bleared, and yet bright, that I thought he resembled
more a wild beast than a man.

" For some time I had been engaged trying to
unravel the mysteries of the game, when a shout was
raised by the bystanders, ' A muck ! a muck ! ' and the
crowd surged right and left ; still I could not see what
caused the alarm, for I was bustled back from the table
by the excited throng. I was about to attempt forcing
my way through it to learn what was occurring, when
the crowd in front of me parted, each of its members
darting to the left or right, as if it were a case of sauve
qui pent, and up the opening that was thus left appeared
the repulsive Malay, kriss in hand, cutting right and
left. In a moment he was up to me. I had not time
to think, let alone get out of the way ; he raised his
weapon and struck blindly. I put up my arm to pro-
tect myself, down came the blade, and made the wound
you see, but at the same instant the would-be assassin
lay to all appearance lifeless at my feet. I turned
round, and immediately behind me was old Abe, the

cook, grinning from ear to ear ; in his hand he held his

226 -TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

wonderful ratan clubbed ; there was no necessity of
asking who struck the blow that had saved my life.

" What became of the wretch I could not tell, for we
were forced back from where he lay ; but if I mistake
not, the krisses of his countrymen finished the work
that old Abe so ably commenced."

" I have heard that Malays poison their krisses. I
hope there is no danger from that," I said anxiously.

" So have I, but you need not be alarmed. I have
seen a doctor, and he says there is nothing to be feared.
At the same time he remarked that it was fortunate
that the occurrence did not take place further south,
down in the islands, for there the weapons are invariably
poisoned."

We had ever considered Master Cookey a character,
and a good-hearted obliging fellow, moreover we knew
that he was possessed of no ordinary amount of
courage ; so is it to be wondered at that he now
became a special favourite with Serge and myself?

Next day my companion and I went ashore with the
skipper, who still had business at the shipping agents ;
as he did not order the boat to return for him till late,
we had ample time to wander about and see the sights.

We decided to visit first the tigers confined in the
handsome gardens of a wealthy Chinese. There were
four or five of them, splendid beasts, and in prime con-
dition.

An intelligent Chinaman, who appeared to be the
head gardener, and spoke English remarkably well,
told us that the island swarmed with them, and that the
Government paid one hundred dollars for every one

A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWICH. 227

brought in dead or alive ; but that the jungle was so
thick, and in consequence the pursuit so dangerous,
that few attempted it. The loss of life on the island
and on the neighbouring mainland from these ferocious
animals has been, calculated at two labourers a day, in
fact, some of the Gambia plantations have on this
account been deserted by their proprietors.

There was nothing either of us should have liked
better than a tiger hunt ; but it was quite evident that
what others with unlimited means and accessories could
not accomplish, it would simply be absurd for us to
attempt. So we satisfied ourselves by hiring a garry
and driving wherever our Jehu chose to take us. The
animal in this conveyance was a remarkably small
pony, yet the little beast got over the ground with his
heavy load at an amazing pace, and after several hours
of such exertion under a tropical sun, did not show any
evidence of unusual fatigue.

These Singapore ponies are certainly marvels of
horse flesh. A few are brought from Assam and
Burmah, but the majority I believe are from Java.

To our intense disgust the captain told us when we
joined him that he had failed to fill our places, or to
add to his crew, and that in consequence, although
much against his will, he would be compelled to go
down to the Dutch port of Batavia, that our agreement
was to remain with him till our places were filled, and
that as gentlemen he hoped we would do so.

In this the old skipper was perfectly right; and
although by this time we fairly loathed the schooner,
and the confined and anything but clean life we were

228 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

leading, still the old man had been so good to us in his
own quiet unostentatious way, that we determined to
stick to him in his difficulty. Moreover, the voyage to
Batavia under ordinary circumstances would not take
more than a week ; and we should have the opportunity
of seeing more of this part of the world, one of the
richest in vegetable productions, and particularly of
Java, which has besides the reputation of being the best
managed and most prosperous of European colonies.

It was a fine afternoon when we tripped our anchor
and bid adieu to Singapore. I cannot say that our
feelings were those of pleasure when we did so, for we
were leaving behind a scene so bright, new, and full of
activity for another term of imprisonment.

The wind, which was very light, was dead ahead till
we got clear of the Straits, so, for the first twenty-four
hours, the schooner had to be put about every few
miles. Land could be seen on both sides, covered with
the same bright, dazzling, green vegetation that had
charmed us so much at the port we had left, while
immense numbers of the numerous extraordinary rigged
crafts, peculiar to these waters, surrounded us on every
hand. When we had made sufficient offing, our bow
was pointed to the southward of east, as we intended
running through the Straits of Banka ; but the winds
were so light, and frequently baffling, that our progress
was barely sufficient to give us steerage way.

The schooner not being fitted with awning and such
comforts as vessels intended for carrying passengers in
tropical seas are always supplied with, we suffered a
great deal from the heat, while the grease that had,

A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWICH. 2 29

about midships, plentifully besmeared our decks and
bulwarks, emitted anything but an agreeable odour.

However, if the days were objectionable, the nights
were charming. The moon was almost at her full,
looked like a huge ball of molten silver, and emitted
the softest and most charming light possible to imagine.
Serge was on deck with me telling me of the wonders
of his own land, the marvellous Kremlin of Moscow,
and the grand Winter Palace of St Petersburg, when
Master Abe, whom now from brevity and possibly
feelings of regard we invariably dubbed with the
affectionate title, Cookey, passed, returning to his
caboose from the cabin.

For the last day or two nothing appeared to please
him more than to be taken notice of by either of us, or
to listen to our conversation ; so he stopped when
abreast of us, laid hold of the rattlings, and became a
most interested listener. At length our conversation
turned to tiger-hunting, which sport, it was evident,
Serge had set his mind on enjoying if an opportunity
offered.

"Ah ! " said Cookey, "you should go to my country if
you want to shoot wild beast ; plenty, plenty wild beast
there."

" How is that ? " said I ; " you come from America ;
there are no wild beasts in your part of it, except an
occasional stray bear."

" Yes, I hail from America this time ; but that not
my country ; my country Africa, I Zulu, not American
darkie as captain call me," said Abe.

" Then you are a Kaffir," I rejoined.

230 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

" No ! no ! not Kaffir ; Kaffir live to the south of my
country ; I Zulu plenty lion, and camels, and rhinostre,
and sea-cow there. I young man when I come away ;
still I many times go with my people and have grand
hunt ; kill plenty wild beasts."

" Did you ever see a lion killed ? " Serge asked.

" Plenty times."

" You have no guns ; how did you do it ? " he con-
tinued.

" No, we have no guns, that quite true ; but we have
assegai and shield. I tell you how we kill him. The
lion in the night sometimes kill buffalo or ox, then he
eat till his stomach very full, and go and lay down to
rest. Zulu hunter find his spoor and follow that till he
find him ; then he come back to village and tell the
chief, who calls all the warriors and tells them to get
ready for the hunt. Soon all the young men are ready,
for they have nothing to do but bring their asegai and
shield. Then the man who found the lion leads them
to where he is hid ; when my people get there they
make a ring round him and gradually advance, holding
their shield in front of them with the left arm, while in
the right hand they carry their sharp assegai. Nearer
and nearer they close upon the lion, till he either smell
the people or hear them ; then he get up and look all
round to see where he can get away, but there is no
opening, so he knows he must fight ; then he gives one
roar to frighten the men, and rushes at the nearest Zulu,
who receives him on his shield, at the same time bury-
ing his assegai in his stomach. The first man the lion
jumps on is probably knocked down and gets badly

A VOYAGE IN THE HULL> A SWICH.

bitten ; but while the lion is thus engaged a dozen
assegais pierce him, but he is not yet killed ; another
and another Zulu is thrown down and hurt, possibly
killed ; but more and more assegais pierce the savage
brute till, at length exhausted from loss of blood, he
dies. In such fights as these one or more warriors are
sometimes killed, but this does not happen always.

" Another way we kill the lion is more brave still.
Two or three Zulus hunting find a lion asleep ; they
crawl up to him, taking care that he does not get their
wind ; when close, one of the men takes off his caross,
the others balance their assegais ; in a moment after
the head of the lion is covered with the caross, and the
spears are hurled into his side. When he feels the pain
he starts up, but the skin rug prevents him seeing, so,
frightened out of his wits, he disregards his foes, and
rushes off over the velt. Yes! the Zulu is a brave
hunter."

It is impossible to give this in the language it was
told, for Cookey spoke English wonderfully well ; but
to appreciate it properly the reader should have seen
the clever pantomimic actions the narrator made illus-
trative of the scenes he described.

I hazarded the remark here, " What brought you to
sea?"

" I came to Natal to see the ships, then I get hired to
help to unload them, afterwards I think that I should
like to make a voyage ; so I go from one ship to another
till I am more white man than black man ; when I get
plenty money I will go home, I say ; still I never get
the money, and so still am on board ship. See, master,

232 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

what boat is that coming out from under the loom of
the land ; proa, I think, perhaps pirate ; I have been
here before, and know that there are plenty Malay
pirate in these waters."

Casting my eyes in the direction indicated, I easily
distinguished a long snake-like craft stealing out from
under the dark shadow caused by the Sumatra shore
and the tall palm trees growing on the water's margin.
All on board this suspicious craft seemed to be still
as death. She did not advance, but appeared to be
waiting either for the purpose of observing us, or to be
joined by a companion.

Neither Serge nor myself could help feeling that
there was something suspicious in her conduct ; nor
were we kept long in doubt, for soon another proa,
equal in size, joined the first. For some time they
remained stationary together, then with quiet, stealthy
strokes their bows were turned towards us, and silently
they advanced. We called the captain and crew, and
in a moment after, all were on deck. The skipper
spoke a few words " Your lives depend on beating off
the scoundrels ; " and it was clear, from the avidity
with which each man seized the musket and tomahawk
given him, that there was but one opinion among us all,
namely, to fight to the last. The schooner at this time
was scarcely passing through the water more rapidly
than three miles an hour, so that there was no chance of
our escaping by speed ; thus if these proas were pirati-
cal crafts, we were doubtless in for what promised to be
very hot fighting. We had one cannon on board, an
old iron four-pounder; it had often been made the

A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWICH. 233

subject of joke in previous days, but who knew that it
might not turn out useful now ? Serge, who, like all
young Russians of the higher class, had had a military
education, offered to take charge of it.

In this the skipper acquiesced, and immediately
afterwards I saw Cookey assisting to load the veteran
gun with a bag of slugs. The proas kept advancing
slowly, still they were too far off to hail ; so taking the
chance, I~*ast my eyes about to see how our fighting
material looked ; appearances were highly satisfactory.
The captain and mate each had a long Kentucky rifle
beside them, and a revolver in their belt. Serge and I
had similar weapons, being those we had used on the
plains ; Cookey had a musket, and a long blubber
knife, a weapon as sharp as a razor, with a sweep of
eight or nine feet; while the remainder had muskets and
tomahawks. I heard Serge giving directions to two of
the hands to be prepared to open the midships gang-
way the moment he told them, at the same time he was
employed in reeving stops to counteract the recoil of
the cannon. The masterly manner in which he was
executing his duties elicited the commendation of the
captain, who evidently saw that he had the right man
in the right place. Following the captain forward, I
heard him say to the mate, "These scoundrels think that
because we are so low in the water they will only have
half-a-dozen men to deal with, but by the jumping
Jupiter, they'll find the Hulda Swich the hottest coal
they ever undertook to handle."

The crew had been kept as much hid as possible
behind the bulwarks, and silence was strictly enjoined

234 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

until the suspected crafts should show whether they
were friends or foes. At length the skipper hailed
them ; but his voice was scarcely echoed over the
water, when every oar was dipped firmly and strongly
with a long pull, and the proas dashed at us. They
were close together, and nearly abreast. Cookey at
Serge's request ran to bid the skipper to put the helm
to starboard, so as to run more off the wind and so
bring both the hostile crafts in line for a cross shot In
a moment this was done ; the schooner, going freer,
increased her pace, the proas altered their course to cut
us off, but in doing so, got into the desired position,
when the cannon was fired through the gangway, and at
the short distance, judging from the shouts and execra-
tions we heard, and the number of oarsmen that
appeared to cease their exertion, wonderful execution
must have been done among our assailants. In the
meantime file-firing from every part of the starboard
side was opened. I was too busy to watch others, but
after two successive shots I saw two of the enemy fall,
and I was not the only one who held my rifle straight,
for again and again I saw inmates of the attacking
boats throw up their arms, or fall from their seats. The
sharp fusilade seemed to have paralysed the foe ; but
this was only for a minute or so, for again they dashed
at us, one proa in advance of the other ; but Serge had
by this time reloaded his cannon, at the foremost of the
enemy he got a raking shot, and in the clear moonlight
in this climate, almost as bright as day, there was no
difficulty in seeing that many were killed or wounded.
So far our antagonists had fired only a few shots ;

A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWICH. 235

for doubtless they considered boarding was their chance
of success ; and obstinately and courageously they
attempted it ; but from our running free they found it
more difficult than they had anticipated. In going off
the wind, it is true, we were leaving our channel, and get-
ting among shoals and into dangerous navigation, still it
was the only course we could adopt with a chance of

4C0fc>

safety. But the villains were not to be denied. With
a pluck and exertions worthy of a better cause, they
took their punishment and struggled on to grapple with
us. Our cannon from defects in mounting could not be
sufficiently depressed to be brought to bear again ; but
Soldatenkoff was equal to the emergency. With a hand-
spike under each trunion he got the gun dismounted,
and ere the crew of the proa could board, the cumbrous
mass of iron was hurled into her bottom. The crash
told how many ribs must have been smashed, and how
many planks started under its weight. However, the
Malays were not to be deterred by even the destruction
of their boat ; but struggled most determinedly to gain
our decks. Here the revolvers did grand execution, and
the long sweeping cutting knife of Cookey dealt fearful
wounds, as he stood, stripped of his shirt, his brawny
chest and arms proclaimed him a Hercules, while his
activity was equal to his physique. Who that has been
among the Zulus does not remember what splendid
men they are ? and Cookey was a Zulu of Zulus.

To give the Malays their due, they fought with the
utmost recklessness and courage, but our people were so
firm and met their repeated assaults with such deter-
mined resolution that they never were able to establish a

236 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

footing on our decks. At length the battle commenced
to slacken ; our antagonists found that they for once had
made a mistake, so the hurt and those who had the
fortune to escape wounds, dropped into the sea and
swam for the other proa, for the one that boarded us
had by this time become almost swamped through the
injury it had received from the heavy old four-pounder
being dropped into it. It may have appeared like a
useless taking of life now that the foe were retreating,
but Serge and the captain turned over many a swimmer
before they reached their boat.

The remaining craft was now so hampered with
numbers, that quite a length of time was lost before
they could settle to their sweeps and pull out of fire, and
until they did so a perfect shower of leaden messengers
were fired into the crowd. But the action was now
virtually over, so I was ordered by the skipper to
enquire what casualties we had suffered fortunately
these were very slight ; two of the Kanakas having
received flesh wounds, neither of which were serious,
and the unhappy boy disabled by having several of his
toes broken through the wheel of the gun-carriage,
when recoiling, passing over his foot.

But when we had been intent on nothing but repel-
ling the pirate, the schooner had been left pretty much
to take care of herself. The order was now promptly
sung out to brace the sheets and bring her again on the
wind. While this was being done, the retreating enemy
screamed a yell of disappointed rage, which was
answered by a shout of defiance from our people that
floated far over the placid waters.

A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWICH. 237

But it appeared that we were far from being out of
danger, for in putting the schooner off the wind, we had
left the navigable channel and drawn close upon the
Sumatra coast, a mass of coral beds, the position of
which are so little known, that no accurate chart can be

found of them. In the meantime the wind had almost

4g0i

entirely died away ; consequently our jibboom was
turned in rotation to every point in the compass.
Under such circumstances the reader might say : Why
not let go the anchor ? For this simple reason, that
there are no soundings unless over one of the reefs,
where there is frequently only a few feet of water,
which we wished to avoid. A boat was consequently
lowered to feel the way for us in the direction that we
were drifting, and also to be our last resource to get our
craft's head round, if it should point to danger ; for it
is a well-known fact that a vessel will frequently drift
in the direction her bow is pointed.

After an hour of this work, in which our position
became momentarily more perilous, we escaped from
running on a reef by the narrowest possible margin.
The captain, who never for a moment left the deck, was
evidently most anxious for the safety of his craft, and
tried every expedient that nautical skill could suggest to
release us from our difficulties ; but all without avail.
Soon after daybreak the wind began to rise, and worse
than all, it blew from the very point that not only could
not be of any service, but increased our danger. Again
and again the schooner was put about; but the tacks
were compulsorily so short that we gained nothing by
the operation. As the day waxed older, so the breeze

238 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

increased, and to such an extent that sail had to be
shortened, while the barometer kept falling so rapidly
as to indicate a coming storm. Between us and the
channel were to be seen such numerous breakers, that
it was truly surprising that we in the darkness of night
should have drifted past them without striking. These
outlying reefs, until the waves had much increased in
size, formed almost a breakwater for the shelter of the
inlying water, thus preventing our seeing the dangers
close at hand. For the fourth or fifth time our vessel
was put upon the port-tack, and we were just com-
mencing to pass rapidly through the water when there
was a fearful crash, the masts trembled, so that momen-
tarily I expected to see them go by the board ; but the
sticks and rigging were good, and we escaped that mis-
fortune although we found ourselves hard and fast upon
a coral reef. Every effort was now put in practice to
get her off ; kedges were got out, and every hand
manned the capstan, but all was of no avail ; and I
doubt if there was an individual on board who did not
think that the Hulda Swich had sailed her last voyage.
Moreover the gale freshened, and with its increase the
sea rose to such an extent that it became a matter of
doubt whether a boat would live in it ; but as the boats
were our only salvation if the schooner broke up, the
captain reluctantly gave orders to leave the poor craft
that so long had been our home. Not without difficulty
and danger was this effected ; and as the sun set we
landed on the wood-clad shores of the Island of Sumatra.
Our arms and a few valuables we had saved, but few
had found time to bring with them a change of clothes.

A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWICH. 239

We were all in a sad plight, wet, fagged and dirty,
still withal we had reason to be thankful that no lives
had been lost.

But sailors do not take long to accommodate them-
selves to circumstances. Soon a rousing fire was made and
all seemed to think that our lot might have been worse.

000^

Just before darkness set in, Serge walked a little dis-
tance from the camp. In a few minutes he returned.
His manner was scarcely as calm as was his wont.
"Come with me for a moment, I wish to show you some-
thing," he said to me, and without inquiry I accompanied
him. " Look at that," he said, pointing out a track in
the sand, and then continued, " I have seen plenty of
tracks of bears and wolves and other wild beasts in the
snow, and if I mistake not, this is made by a tiger."

I examined it carefully, there could be no doubt the
impressions on the sand were the track of a wild beast,
moreover, the indentations were fresh enough not to be
an hour old. Returning to our companions in mis-
fortune we informed them of our discovery, but the
captain and mate were too much absorbed in their
troubles to take any precautions in consequence.

By the judicious use of a few kind words, I induced
some of the crew to accompany me into the bush to
gather wood ; so ere darkness had quite shrouded us,
we had a supply of firing sufficient to last throughout
the night.

As my senior officers had each a heavy load of trouble
to bear, I took upon myself the responsibility of inform-
ing the crew of what I had seen, and advised them on
no account during the night to leave the fire ; but they

240 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

appeared sceptical. I believe that there is no class of
people more difficult to convince of the presence of a
danger of which they have had no experience than
sailors.

For a long time I had no occasion to complain of any
one disregarding my advice ; for all were so thoroughly
exhausted with their labours and with the excitement
of the previous night and the preceding day that they
passed the night in one uninterrupted slumber. To this
there was one exception, the poor lad who had got
maimed by the cannon ; for turn which way he would
he tossed and groaned in anguish. Serge Soldatenkoff
confessed to being very tired, and I had no hesitation
in acknowledging that I was so also ; so we proposed
to divide the night into two watches, and cast lots who
was to take the first. This devolved upon me, so with
arms dried and reloaded, so as to be ready for immediate
action, I lit a fire some distance in the rear of the
other, and between them, but sufficiently far from each
to be beyond their sleep-inducing influence, I lay down
and listened. Many strange sounds I heard, but they
were doubtless caused by frogs, lizards, or nocturnal
birds. Once I heard something crushing through the
brushwood and breaking the branches as if they were
rotten bows ; but soon this noise became less and less
distinct till it ultimately died away. The storm like
tropical gales had ceased as rapidly as it had risen,
and the full moon over-head in the tranquil heavens,
looked like a brilliant sapphire set in a surrounding of
blue enamel.

I looked to sea-ward ; there was the schooner, her

A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWICH. 24!

masts still standing, and as far as could be judged from
such a distance, apparently uninjured, while no waves
beat against her side, larger than the toy boat of a child
might successfully contend with. What if we should
get hefSfloat again ? It may be possible, I thought ; at
least till I know otherwise I shall hope so.

It was some time past midnight, and, therefore, time
for me to wake Serge. With that intention I went to
him ; but hesitated to disturb him for he was sound
asleep, with a pleasant smile on his face that made me
think 'that his mind must have wandered away into
dreamland. His left hand was under his head, his right
arm extended to its full length by his side ; the breast
of his shirt and collar were open, and over his regularly
palpitating heart hung his treasure, what he probably
valued most on earth, the gold-rimmed locket that con-
tains a likeness of his mother. Yes, and if he loved his
parent, who could doubt that her brave fair-haired, blue-
eyed son was more than all the world to her. Could
she have seen him now, what would she have thought ?
Alas ! the wanderer had to go through many trials and
hardships that those who pass their lives at home and
in ease, can scarcely believe it possible to endure and
live.

It must have been nearly two in the morning when
Serge relieved me. He was annoyed at not having been
more punctual, but I assured him it was my fault ; for
as a sailor I should have called him to take his watch.

Worn out, I threw myself down to rest, but my sleep
was troubled by strange and horrid dreams. With a
start and feeling of horror I would awake, and again

242 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

compose myself to rest ; but again the same visions
would be repeated with more than former distinctness.
Thus I tossed about, half asleep, half awake, till the
pearly grey lines of light in the east proclaimed the
advent of another day. Although disposed to rise I
delayed, for although sleep was denied me, I was over-
come with a feeling of languor that craved indulgence.
It is at such times as these that the memory of the past
comes most vividly upon us. I saw my father and his
dear old friend ; there were the pipes and glasses, and the
stereotyped story was being narrated by one to the satis-
faction of the other, when I was instantly brought to
reality by a shriek, repeated at brief intervals again and
again, each succeeding time with less volume and energy.
In a moment I was on my feet. I could not have been
dreaming ; for all my comrades had risen likewise.
Into the thick bush we gazed ; but nothing was to be
seen. Serge had his rifle in his hand, I seized mine and
we both rushed in the direction whence we imagined the
appalling sound had come. It had evidently not been
distant, and scarcely forty yards from the fire; we reached
the spot. The ground bore marks of a recent struggle,
for not only had the loose sand been disturbed, but
large quantities of blood covered the surface of the
ground, and smeared the neighbouring shrubs ; while
the wide-spread track of a large tiger sufficiently indic-
ated the nature of the tragedy that had just occurred.

We thought that all our shipmates were by the fire
when we left them ; so we returned, believing that none
of our party could have been the victim ; but alas ! we
were wrong the poor boy was missing.

A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWICH. 243

Volunteers were soon forthcoming to rescue him,
foremost among them was Cookey, a most valuable aid,
for who understands spooring better than a Zulu ? but
our efforts were unavailing, for the further we penetrated
the jungle the more dense became the undergrowth ; so
that finally we were compelled to give up the search,
but not before fragments of a shirt and trousers had been
found hanging on the thorn-bearing plants, giving in-
disputable evidence that it was the boy who had been
carried off.

On rejoining our party, we observed preparations in
an advanced stage for re-embarking for the schooner.
On arriving alongside we found her as she had been left,
apparently little injured ; for she had barely made a
foot of water in twelve hours. After a consultation it
was resolved that the mate with a well-armed crew
should start in one of the whale boats for Auger or
Batavia, whichever port he found most convenient, and
endeavour to obtain assistance.

After breakfast we bid them "God-speed," and by
mid-day they had disappeared below the horizon.

All now were busily employed ; the craft had to be
pumped dry, after which every one assisted to lighten
the unfortunate vessel. The next day our exertions
were renewed till eight bells, when all ceased their labour
for the noon-day meal. The captain with his glass was
on the poop, intently gazing seaward ; at length he
called to me, " Look here, youngster, your eyes are better
than mine, take a squint through this, and tell me what
you make it out to be." I did as he desired, " A square
rigged ship, Sir," I said. " Then my old eyes are scarcely

244 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

as dim as I took them to be," he replied ; and continued,
" call your watch up and lower your boat, for if she's
the right sort, certainly she won't refuse a fellow help in
such a tarnation scrape as we are in." Soon after my
boat was in the water and we were passing through the
intricacies of the out-lying reef, every man straining on
his oar to his utmost power that we might have
approached sufficiently near the strange vessel's course
to preclude the possibility of her look-out not seeing us.
When within two miles of the unknown, she brought her
head into the wind, when to my surprise I perceived
she was a steamship. On her, now numerous hands
appeared aloft taking in canvas ; while their boats, two
of which were heavily loaded with human freight,
dropped astern from the parent craft, and came towards
us. Soon one was recognised as our boat that had been
dispatched under the first mate to seek aid the previous
day, the others were doubtless accompanying her to
render the assistance we sought. Right merrily we
retraced our steps ; the Captain was in glee at his un-
expected luck, and the crew rejoiced that they had not
again to pass a night on a shore frequented by man-
eating tigers.

But small as the Hulda Swich was, our task was long
and tedious. However at length we got her to move
from port to starboard and vice versa^ by moving the
hands together from side to side and while doing so
rolling in front of them heavy casks, then additional
kedges and hawsers were brought to bear, when to our
inexpressible delight the little craft commenced to
move, slowly at first, but by degrees with increasing

A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWICH. 245

velocity, till she finally broke loose from her confine-
ment, and with more than her accustomed speed rushed
back into her native element.

Ofr deliverers were a portion of the crew of an
American man-of-war, on her way from Batavia to
Singapore, previous to proceeding to join the United
States fleet under Commodore Perry, then cruising in
Japanese waters.

The injury the schooner had suffered necessitated the
pumps being kept going, but fortunately Batavia was
soon reached, where our skipper succeeded in obtaining
new hands to replace Serge and myself.

When we had bid the whaler good-bye, the captain
behaved most generously and wished us God-speed, at
the same time adding, that he never hankered after
Britishers, but it would not make him sick to meet
a few more of the same sort as myself, and as to
that bully Roosian, he was a big pumpkin and no
mistake ; throwing the darn'd old cannon into the proa
was the smartest trick he ever set eyes on. We parted
with the schooner without regret : it was not without
regret that we parted with many of her inmates ; in fact
as Cookey shook our hands at the gangway as we were
about to leave, there was a glassy look about his eye
indicative of a lurking tear.

Although much cannot be said in favour of Batavia
itself, we found the environs very charming, it being
surrounded for miles with handsome villas, each situated
in an enclosure or compound of more or less magnitude,
and planted with the most ornamental of tropical or
fruit-bearing trees. From the supposed unhealthiness

246 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

of the city, the whole European population live in these
fascinating retreats, driving to and from their business
every morning and evening.

As we had a few days to spare before a vessel sailed
for Singapore, we resolved to visit Buytenzorg, the
residence of the Governor-General, and situated about
thirty-five miles south-east of Batavia, the scenery there
being reported to be magnificent ; and so we found it
The view from the back of the hotel was such as I have
rarely seen excelled. From thence a good idea of the
agricultural wealth of this productive island could be
formed ; for at our feet lay an immense plain, scattered
over with innumerable villages, imbedded in the most
luxuriant foliage, while to the east rose tier over tier of
high hills, cultivated to their summits and thickly dotted
over with houses of European residents and with
native hamlets. Here at an elevation of from fifteen to
four thousand feet above the sea, coffee is abundantly
cultivated, and of a quality which possibly surpasses
that of any other part of the world except Mocha.

The little Java ponies struck us with astonishment ;
for not only were they pictures of symmetry, but their
pace and endurance were perfectly wonderful.

The native population we found not only civil, but
actually courteous ; and when we could make them
understand, they regretted no amount of trouble to
serve us. They are very fond of cock-fighting and
gambling, but wild-beast fights are with them a perfect
passion. Tiger fighting is a favourite amusement of the
Javanese. The exhibition takes place generally after
day-break, upon an open clear space in the vicinity of

A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWICH. 247

the town, for the amusement of whose inhabitants it is
given. The following is from the description of an eye-
witness, as we were not fortunate enough to witness it

^A. square of men armed with the native spear was
formed three deep and one hundred yards across.
Inside this square was placed a box resembling in
shape a coffin, but much larger, containing a royal
tiger from his native forests, which had been brought to
town the day previously for this express purpose.

"Imagine everything ready, the square formed, the
box in its centre, and a silent multitude looking on,
some perched on trees, some on the coach-boxes of
the numerous carriages, others on horseback, and
thousands on foot, whilst the native chief of the
district with his friends, and the European officials of
the place, occupied a gay pavilion, placed in an
advantageous situation for viewing the coming strife.

"A native Javan in full dress is now seen advancing
into the square, followed by two coolies or porters, one
carrying a bundle of straw, and the other a lighted
torch. The straw is thrown over the box, and the
torch-bearer stands ready to set fire to it at the end
where the tiger's head is, the box being too narrow to
permit his turning round in it.

" The leading native then lifts a sliding door at the
other extremity of the box, carefully covering the
opening thus made with mats, to prevent the light
from penetrating, and inducing his Royal Highness to
back out too soon. This operation completed the straw
is set on fire. The native and his two coolies now
retire slowly, keeping time to Javanese music as they

248 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

make their way outside the square. By this time the
fire has got fair hold of the box, filling it with smoke,
and the tiger begins to retreat, his berth becoming
rather warm.

" Presently his hind-quarters appear issuing through
the sliding door-way, its covering of mats readily yield-
ing to the pressure ; by degrees his hind feet gain firm
footing outside, and his whole body is seen displayed.

" On appearing, he seemed rather confused for a few
seconds, and laying himself quietly down, looking all
round upon his foes, gave a roar that made the welkin
ring, and my heart quake a little.

" He then rose, deliberately shook himself, turned to-
wards the rising sun, set off, first at a walk, then at a
trot, which he gradually increased to a smart canter, till
within a few yards of the points of the spears aimed at
him ; he then came to the charge, and made a spring
that surprised me, and, I fancy, every one present. I
am afraid to say how high he leaped, but he was on the
descent before a single spear touched him. The leap
was evidently made with the intention of getting clear
over the heads of the men and their spears too, and he
most certainly would have accomplished it, had he not
leaped too soon, and fallen within the square, the height
of the spring being quite sufficient for the purpose.

" As it was, when on the descent, the spears of the
six men nearest him being pointed at his breast, one of
them inflicted a fearful wound.

" On reaching the ground, the noble beast struggled
hard for his liberty, but, finding his efforts of no avail,
he ultimately started off at full gallop to the opposite

A VOYAGE IN THE HULDA SWICH. 249

side of the square, where he renewed his exertions,
though with less vigour than that displayed on his first
attempt, and with no better success.

"He then galloped twice round the square, just at
the point of the spears. Not a man advanced to touch
him, it being the rule, that the tiger must come within
the range of the spears before they can be used. He
was ultimately killed while making a third attempt to
escape, and thus ended the sport.

" His first charge was very brilliant and exciting ; his
second much less so ; his third and last was very
feeble.

" Immediately after the tiger's death, the same cere-
monies were gone through with a leopard, who took the
spearmen rather by surprise, and instead of trying to
leap over their heads, darted in under their spears, got
among their feet, and effected his escape, to the no small
consternation of the surrounding multitude, who soon
scattered in all directions. He, however, was pursued
by the men he had baffled, and was killed under a hedge
in the immediate neighbourhood.

"Tigers are frequently pitted by the native chiefs
against buffaloes; the buffalo is generally the conqueror,
and is sure to be so, if he succeeds in getting one fair
butt at his adversary, whom he tosses in the air, and
butts again on his fall."

I would not describe these cruel pastimes, but that
they may be regarded as institutions of this distant
country ; however, after all, they are no worse than cock
or dog fighting ; indeed, not so bad, and not for a mo-
ment to be compared to a pugilistic encounter between

250 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

two men, all of which barbarous sports were popular in
England only a few years since.

We returned to Batavia in time to catch the steamship ;
fair weather favoured us, and we made rapid progress
towards Singapore, for from thence we had resolved to
take ship for Europe.

Soon the scene of the late disaster to the Hulda
Swich was passed, then the island of Banca, the capital
of which is Muntok, celebrated for its tin mines, but one
of the most unhealthy places in the world ; and further,
notorious for the ferocity of the enormous alligators
which infest its rivers, and which it is said, do not even
scruple to attack boats. Afterwards Burtang came in,
sight, a place so productive as to yield about fifty thou-
sand piculs of black pepper annually. Seven hours
afterwards we were once more safely moored in Singa-
pore harbour.

I pass over our voyage from the Straits of Malacca
home, which has been so often described as to be desti-
tute of any novelty of incident ; and request the reader
to meet me in the next chapter in Northumberland.

CHAPTER XVII.

HOME AGAIN !

IT is my old home, but who that knew it before would
know it now; everything is changed, sadly changed. I
have now been at home a year and a-half, and during
that time and the period of my absence, how many
events have occurred. It is not pleasant to make a re-
trospect of what has caused pain, still sometimes it is
necessary to do so, if for no other purpose than to show
how a life may be affected by incidents which at first
seemed little likely to have such eventful consequences.

On arriving in Northumberland, I found dear old
Captain Cinnamon had died a short time previous to
my return, and that my father had become a confirmed
invalid, the loss of the companion of his life preying
sadly upon him. I had induced Serge, who had
written from London to his mother, to accompany
me to the north, there to await her answer ; but such a
change had come over the dear old place, that after a
week, knowing well the monotony of our daily life, I
proposed taking a run over to Manchester to visit Philip
Upton who was stationed there with the headquarters of
his regiment, the gallant Fusiliers.

Phil was the same reckless Phil as of old. No
heartier welcome could have been offered than he gave
us, and never did I enjoy a visit more thoroughly.
However, I could not remain long away from my

252 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

father, so, when a week had passed, which was one
round of pleasure, I left Serge, whose popularity from the
first had been unbounded, and who had been detained
whether he would or not, and returned to my home.

A month afterwards I forwarded to Serge a letter
from his mother, and soon after was joined by him and
Philip, who had become inseparables. Serge was in
wonderful spirits, for his offence had been forgiven by
the Emperor, and he was to return home with the least
possible delay. So to Hull we all travelled together.
There was the usual parting, the accustomed waving of
handkerchiefs, and then I realised that I had separated
from as true and kind a heart as this selfish world con-
tains ; but the separation was only to be for a time ;
for I had promised to spend a portion of the coming
year with him, when we intended to deal out fearful
destruction among the bears and wolves. This plan
was not destined to be realised, for soon after I received
a letter from my friend informing me that all had been
forgiven ; but that he had to perform his turn of mili-
tary service, and therefore had been appointed to a
crack corps, then doing duty in Circassia.

Upton I saw frequently for a time ; but his regiment
being ordered to Dover, his visits also ceased.

I commenced to think that the dear old gentleman's
health was improving ; one night we sat later than
usual, many of his old stories were narrated with their
accustomed vigour, so when I escorted him to his bed-
room, I could not help congratulating him on the pros-
pect of his soon being able to go out and enjoy his
wonted recreations. It might have been two A.M., not

HOME AGAIN ! 253

later, when the housekeeper, much alarmed, rushed into
my room announcing that my father had a fit, and was
insensible. From that time he never rallied ; but by
degrees passed away to the spirit world.

About this time rumours of war began to float
through Europe, and day by day the tone of the press
became more belligerent, till at length even those who
believed that education and civilization had made war-
fare a thing of the past, confessed that they feared their
supposition had been premature. Garrisons in the
Mediterranean were strengthened, regiments were in-
creased to their war strength, and the government ar-
senals and dockyards echoed with sounds that denoted
how earnestly and rapidly were being hurried forward
the manufacture of implements destined to be employed
in human slaughter.

Philip Upton's regiment was one of the first to
embark for active service. Oh how I longed to go
with it, but alas ! that was impossible. In course of time
battle after battle was reported, the storming of the
heights of Alma, the magnificent but disastrous charge
of our cavalry at Balaklava, and the terrific struggle of
Inkermann. But if our troops gained laurels, the price
paid in carnage was fearful. Still to participate in the
strife I felt to be a duty I owed my country, but how
to accomplish my purpose was the difficulty. At
length I obtained introductions from my kind friend
the baronet whom I have previously mentioned as
living in our neighbourhood to those he thought able
to assist me to accomplish my desire; but applicants
for similar employment were so numerous that I failed.

254 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

Thus I was situated when I determined to visit the
scene of strife at my own expense. I informed Sir

of the step I intended taking, and he obtained me

letters of introduction to the Commander-in-Chief, and
the gallant old Gael that commanded the Highland
Brigade. Thus provided, I sailed for Constantinople,
where I was delayed for some days from the difficulty
of finding a private vessel destined for Balaklava, and my
further travels towards the battle-field might have here
terminated, but that that kind-hearted old Admiral, who
had not forgotten how to swear, took compassion upon
me. Never under sailor's jacket beat a kinder heart, never
was there a more energetic and zealous officer, never
was there one who in the execution of his duties spared
himself less than this gallant old hero.

The second morning after leaving the Bosphorus we
sighted land. Our passage had not been rapid for we
had encountered fearful weather, and the small craft
that I was on board of was far from what would be
considered a good sea boat. To add to our mis-
fortunes she sailed very deep, so much so indeed that
the sea frequently made a clean break over us. But an
efficient crew and good seamanship can conquer ex-
traordinary difficulties, which on this occasion was
thoroughly proved. The distant land we had sighted
rapidly became more and more distinct, amid dark
solemn-looking hills, destitute of vegetation, marked
and scored with many a fissure. These hills were pre-
cipitous and iron-bound towards the sea. The further
we advanced into this portal the gloomier and more
dispiriting did the prospect look, till the beholder could

HOME AGAIN ! 255

almost fancy the walls of the channel closing and
crushing whatever intervened to keep the wild head-
lands apart. But what a scene strikes on the eye after
this strait is passed! A placid small lake, scarcely
larger than a Grampian tarn, but with a whole fleet of
shipping floating on its bosom, the ships so crowded
together that they were moored stem and stern, and
almost touching each other and such a fleet they were,
that at that period all the nations of the earth com-
bined could not have produced their equal. It is use-
less to run over their names, for most have passed
away, but they were the elite of such well-known lines
as the Cunard, the West India, the General Screw
Navigation Company, the P. and O. Company, and the
West Coast of Africa Company. What boy or man,
if English born, could gaze with anything but admira-
tion on such an assembly of our mercantile marine that
so powerfully assists in maintaining our country's great-
ness. On the right hand was Balaklava village, a
straggling row of houses close to the water's edge.
Previous to this time Balaklava was scarcely known ;
but now its name will live in the annals of our race for
ages to come. Formerly it must have been very poor ;
now it is packed with munitions of war, provisions,
clothing, specie, value- for a king's ransom.

As we landed what a medley of people surrounded
us, representatives almost of every race in the globe,
the majority of whom were dressed in the costume
peculiar to the country. Mud in the street, beyond the
street, and as far as the eye can see along the road that
leads to the front, and such mud, so black and so

256 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

tenacious that every step requires the greatest muscular
exertion. Near the top of the harbour were moored a
couple of men-of-war to command the land approaches
to the harbour, and where the water ceased and earth
took its place, commenced a giant graveyard, that a
year before had probably never held a human being,
now filled with victims to pestilence, famine, exposure,
and war.

Hurrying on to the quarters of the Heavy Cavalry
Brigade, so as to lessen my distance to headquarters
as much as possible on the morrow, I called on an
old friend who commanded one of the regiments. He
hospitably invited me to dinner, and obtained a bed
for me, and the use of a pony for the morrow's
journey.

In a hut built against a hill-side, poorer far than any
cabin in Connemara, we dined. It was something new
to see a number of gallant, brave and noble gentlemen,
leading such a life without a murmur. The officers of
our army were then unequalled in the whole world for
bravery and devotion to their duty. Those that fight
our future battles can do no better than take them for
their models.

Next day after two hours' toil, on the most sluggish
pony a Cossack that it ever was my lot to ride, I
reached headquarters.

It was a dilapidated farm-house, faced with a
verandah and forming one side of a square, the other
three being formed by high walls and stabling. The
chief of the staff, a kind-hearted agreeable person, soon
saw me and learned my mission. Then I was in-

HOME AGAIN ! 257

troduced to the Chief, and such a chief, a nobleman
among noblemen, courteous, considerate and kind. I
speak not from this interview, for I often had the
honour of talking to him afterwards. The journey
homewards, or at least to Balaklava, was a happy one,
for I had an official document in my pocket nominating
me to a temporary appointment in the Commissariat
till the Home authorities should have me gazetted.
Next day I was attached for duty to the Light
Division.

Philip Upton's regiment was in the same brigade,
but we could not see much of each other, for he was
incessantly in the trenches, where my services seldom
called me. However, we did occasionally have a talk
about the past and our Mexican experiences, and many,
many, were the desires expressed that both again
should meet Serge Soldatenkoff.

I cannot forget a party I was invited to by the
gallant 2d Fusileers. The giver of the entertainment
was a young captain, but an old soldier. The floor of
his tent was dug out possibly four feet ; thus at least a
dozen comrades could crowd into it. The festive meet-
ing had been some time assembled when the host was
called on for a song. Without coaxing he complied
with our desire, and commenced a most lugubrious
ditty, each verse of which terminated with a most
boisterous chorus. About a dozen of such choruses
had been sung when the Colonel's orderly put his head
into the tent, and informed our entertainer that the
Colonel desired to see him.

" Please state to the Colonel that I will be with him

258 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

the moment my song is finished," was the reply, and
the orderly disappeared.

Again eight or nine more verses were drawled out,
when the orderly again presented himself, and the same
message was sent to the chief as before. It is not
necessary to describe the fury the Colonel was in ; be-
tween the verses we could distinctly hear his strong
powerful voice expressing his indignation at such treat-
ment. This was very wrong of Captain , for it

was showing very marked disrespect to those put in
authority over him.

The same Colonel, who was noted alike for his cool
bravery and irascible nature, I had unfortunately come
across several times on duty. It was in this way. I
was held responsible for the safety of the baggage
animals of the division. A sudden scare would
occasionally cause them to break from their picket-
ropes and stampede. So the runaways had to be
hunted up, sometimes no easy business. However, the
gallant Fusileers were very horsey in their tastes, and
within camp I was invariably successful in discovering
some of the stray quadrupeds. It was of no use identi-
fying them ; the temporary owner invariably referred
me to the Colonel, who stuck to his officers through
thick and thin.

However, in the routine of business, the affair would
be referred to superior authority, when the disputed
property would be restored to its rightful possessors,
very much improved from rest and stabling.

But the sailors of the Naval Brigade were the fellows
to steal horses, and not horses only, but mules, donkeys,

HOME AGAIN! 259

and even dromedaries. If you wanted to buy a mount,
you had only to go to Jack's camp and you might have
your choice of all four of the quadrupeds mentioned.
Before I became known at the Naval Brigade camp, and
its inhabitants were informed what were my peculiar
functions, a sailor, one day, touched his cap, and wished
to know if I wanted a charger ; when I replied in the
affirmative, he took me down a ravine and led me to a
most ill-tempered, repulsive-looking dromedary, made
fast anchored, Jack called it among a pile of rocks.

Till the blue-jackets became familiar with me, their
vicinity was my best hunting-ground, a sure find ; but
afterward, these fellows became so cunning, that the
moment I was within such distance as would enable
them to recognise me, horsemen would be seen scamper-
ing in all directions. I am almost tempted to believe
that among themselves they kept a look-out during day-
light to telegraph my approach. It was most amusing
to see how good-natured they were, even when detected,
and the improbable lies they would invent and tell, with
perfect seriousness, of how the animal fell into their
possession, were almost certain to prevent one reporting
to superior authority their misdemeanors.

My duties were never disagreeable ; my senior officers
were ever kind and considerate ; so what between races
and dog hunts time passed most pleasantly and rapidly.
However, there were two little affairs that I should not
forget to mention, as they were near bringing my
adventures to a close. The first of these I believe
worth narrating, for it is not a bad specimen of the
incidents that may occur at any time to a staff officer

26O TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

bearing despatches or carrying orders when in the
presence of an enemy.

It was about half-past two o'clock in the afternoon,
and I was taking a lounge through the lines after
having enjoyed the usual lunch on such occasions, a
few sardines and a biscuit, to see how the government
bat horses looked, when up rode three friends, Upton
among the number.

" Old fellow," called Philip, "have a saddle put on one
of your nags, and come along to the picquet house and
see the new mortar-battery opened."

As everything had been remarkably quiet all day,
and there was no appearance of my services being
required, I was soon mounted and cantering along the
WarenzofF road with my friends. The distance to the
picquet house was barely a third of a mile, so we soon
reached it, and there found an immense crowd of
persons assembled on the same errand as ourselves, for
not only was the ground covered with people, but the
walls even had as many occupants upon them as they
could hold. Two or three hundred yards in advance of
this ruin was the new battery, armed with the heaviest
mortars. As it was situated on the crest of a slope, I
doubt very much if the enemy were aware of its exist-
ence. One unforeseen occurrence followed another,
delaying the opening of fire; at last all was in readi-
ness, the word of command was given, and the shells
started on their deadly mission. The practice was
beautiful, and the construction of the battery and the
substantiality of the works were evidently most satisfac-
tory to the authorities. But the foe had not been idle.

HOME AGAIN ! 261

Scarcely had the first shell hurled against them burst,
when several guns were aligned upon the picquet house,
flashes and puffs of smoke were seen, and almost
instantly afterwards round shot commenced to fall
among the sight-seers. Never was an assembly of
people more rapidly dispersed, some to the right, some
to the left, but all at the best pace they could command.
There happened that day to be a great many strangers
visiting the camp and lines ; by some means or other
they had learned of the initiation of the new work, and
believing that the little crumbling edifice, from the walls
of which they sought to obtain a view, was well beyond
range, on and about it they had massed themselves.
Civilians are not paid to be shot at, so small blame to
them for getting out of danger ; thus they started the
stampede, which became so infectious, that many
soldiers present there, from curiosity, joined in the rush,
causing a scene of the utmost absurdity. Never
previously had I seen a meeting, religious, political, or
otherwise, so quickly dispersed.

From the battery I observed what was going on
among these curiosity seekers, but the whole affair
commenced suddenly to assume a serious aspect. My
horse, as well as those of my friends and a hundred
others, had been left behind the picquet house in charge
of Bulgarians, Tartars, and numerous other nondescripts.
Among the fleeing crowd of men were numerous loose
horses. To my proper left I cast my eyes, that is in
the direction of our right attack, when, to my horror,
what should I see but a dark grey, a perfect counterpart
of my own horse, covering the ground at a long swing-

262 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

ing, corky trot, head and tail well up, heading directly
for such ground, that to follow the runaway would sub-
ject me to the heaviest enfilading fires.

Out of the battery I sprung and rushed to the
picquet house ; it was just possible there might be two
horses of the same colour, and so I found it to be the
case, very much to my satisfaction. I was just about to
get into the saddle, when my servant, a private of the
7th, informed me that my chief wanted me. So giving
the mare a slack rein, I galloped back to our encamp-
ment.

There I found the mischief to pay. Money was
wanted from the Treasury chest at Balaklava, I was the
proper person to go for it, and the delay in finding me
had almost made the possibility of procuring it that
day impossible. In fact I had no right to have left
camp without permission. But my chief, although
eccentric, was a dear good-hearted man, one with a
bark far worse than his bite. So when he had finished
blowing me up, I informed him that I had time, if he
would let me start at once, to accomplish what he de-
sired. In a few minutes after I was speeding over the
table-lands at a three-quarter gallop, General Bosquet's
gibbet on my left. This gibbet was for suspending a
light from at night ; no one, at least I never heard of
anyone, being hanged on it. Soon the edge of the
high ground was reached, down the slope I pushed,
through the gorge, along the road between the Cavalry
Division and the Highland Brigade, and just reached
the Treasury in Balaklava as the establishment was
closing. But the officer in charge was accommodating ;

HOME AGAIN ! 263

the amount required was soon weighed out and trans-
ferred to my holsters ; so again I got into the pigskin,
and directed my steps homewards. On reaching Open-
heim's restaurant at Katekoi, whom should I meet but
Philip Upton and a host of others I knew, who were
going to have what they designated " a blow out," they
having come from the front for that purpose. Join
them I must, no excuses would they accept, they would
be my escort back ; but I would not be persuaded
further than have one glass of champagne, and that to
be brought me so as not to necessitate my leaving the
saddle. Having bid my noisy comrades good night, I
hastened on my way. Night was rapidly closing in,
but this mattered little, as I knew my route well. When
I had gained the plain, on the right of which the
magnificent charge of the Light Brigade had been
made, it had already become dark ; as there were many
deep ruts, holes, and dead carcasses, I lightened my
reins and reduced the pace of my mare to a walk.
Thinking, possibly, of the placid Pacific, of the buffalo
plains of North America, of the tropical beauties of
the Malay Archipelago, or of my dear friend Serge
Soldatenkoff, I noticed my mare suddenly perk up her
ears. For nearly every thing an animal does there is a
reason ; past experience had taught me so much, and so
it proved to be on this occasion. For on listening I
heard the patter, patter, patter of at least three horse-
men. I consoled myself with the idea that it must be
some of the noisy crowd whom I had left at Openheim's
that the enemy's cavalry could be daring enough to
come so near to our lines never for a moment entered

264 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

my head. When the unknown were within twenty or
thirty yards, I turned round to look at them, the size
of the horses, their redundancy of mane and tail, the
outlines and the attitudes of the riders, told at once that
it was foes, not friends, that followed in my rear. I
was so well mounted that I had little to fear, unless a
chance pistol shot should disable me, or my horse
should fall ; so taking her well in hand, I let her
choose her own pace, and commenced to distance my
pursuers.

Finding that I had so much the advantage of them
in speed, I took a pull on the bit so as to lessen the
chance of a fall, by enabling my willing steed better to
fish her way.

The foe, I suppose, thought this an indication of my
nag getting pumped, so made whip and spur do their
duty, with the hope of coming alongside, but, as
previously, in this attempt they were foiled.

Enraged at their want of success, they adopted the
only course that appeared to offer a chance of effecting
my capture, that of opening fire ; for a stray shot
might render me, or more probably my mount, incap-
able of going further ; but the echoes of the first report
had scarcely died out when the French, who had com-
mand of the lines above, and through which I had to
pass, opened so heavy a musketry fire upon the path I
was traversing, that I had serious doubts that one of
their bullets would accomplish what the Cossacks had
failed in doing. As I reached the commencement of
the ascent of the table-land, my pursuers gave up the
chase ; thus unhurried and in a proper state of coolness,

HOME AGAIN! 265

I answered the sentries' challenge, and was led into the
presence of the officer commanding the guard.

Poor Cossacks ! how little did they know what they
lost that night, for I had six hundred sovereigns in each
holster.

The next affair was nearly as serious ; and if it had
terminated fatally, I should scarcely have deserved pity,
for it occurred while I was engaged with others in com-
mitting an act of recklessness, for which there was no
excuse, and the successful perpetration of which was
very likely to bring others into trouble.

Philip Upton, half-a-dozen others, and myself, started
from the Light Division for Katekoi a few minutes
before sun-set. When we reached the French lines, the
sentries were posted for the night, and the parole and
counter-sign given out. Being ignorant of the open
sesame words, we were refused permission to go through
the lines.

Without evincing any chagrin at our disappointment, we
turned off to the right and followed the line of trench that
terminated near where the stationary engine was after-
wards placed for drawing heavy freight, such as stores,
guns, ammunition, &c., destined for the front. When
we had pursued our way about a third of the distance,
Upton proposed that popular game of Follow my Leader.
All at once acceded, except a very big, very fat, Irish
assistant surgeon of the redoubtable 4th regiment of the
Second Division ; but as the yeas were so in excess of
the nays, Phil constituted himself leader, took a dash out
into the open ground, then wheeling round sharply,
charged the French ditch at a point as distant from

266 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

sentries as could be selected. His mare was a splendid
fencer, over the obstruction she flew like a bird, and
down the steep incline, over boulders and rocks, at such
a pace as few nags could do without falling. All
followed except the doctor, who, wise man, the moment
he perceived our intentions, made tracks for home.
But our noble allies did not enter into the joke, guards
turned out, and a shower of musket bullets followed us.
All, notwithstanding, reached the plain below safely,
but instead of visiting Katekoi, we returned to our
respective camps by another route, for we had little
doubt that the escapade would be reported in the
morning, and the only way to escape detection was for
us to appear in camp at as early an hour as possible.

The conduct of myself and comrades was most
culpable ; defying the regulations of our allies deserved
the severest censure, if not worse ; and we may, one and
all, have deemed ourselves lucky that we were not
brought before our chief.

If young people would stop to think, many things
would not be perpetrated that afterwards lead to
trouble, if not permanent disgrace. If on guard, what
would any of us have thought if the sanctity of our
lines had been violated ? Well, we did not do unto
others as we would wish to be done unto. Further, it
should never be forgotten by a young officer that his
example to his inferiors in rank should always be such
as will reflect credit on their inferiors if they follow it.

Kind, good, brave Lord Raglan did not, that I am
aware of, make this a maxim, but his innate nobleness
and sense of rectitude caused him to do it ; no wonder,

HOME AGAIN ! 267

then, that he was loved with a love almost amounting
to adoration.

Of course, few but his staff officers were on terms
of intimacy with him ; but there was not one from the
highest to the lowest for whom he had not a kindly
look or a kindly word. When his death was announced,
tears fell plentifully from eyes that had long forgotten
how to shed them.

" Talk not of grief till thou hast seen the tears of warlike men."

No General since British history commenced had such
difficulties to contend with ; no hero, not even those of
romance, faced difficulties and fought them so heroically,
ably, and nobly.

Every Briton, whether he be lad or man, should read
" Kinglake's History of the Crimean War ; " of some
portions of his work I can say nothing, but those which
treat of the incidents with which I was associated are
true to the very letter ; in fact, if I possessed the same
powers of diction, taste, and discrimination, I would use
no other words to express truths that must now be
patent to the whole nation, from the poorest subject to
the generous, noble lady, our gracious Queen.

I had mentioned that I had a letter of introduction to
the leader of the Highland brigade, Sir Colin Campbell,
afterwards Lord Clyde. The incidents connected with
its delivery were so characteristic of the man, one who
now occupies a deservedly eminent place in our national
history, that it would be a pity they should not be told.

On arriving at his quarters, a little, white-washed,
mud, or unburnt brick house, I knocked at the door

268 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

which was immediately opened by an officer in staff
uniform. This gentleman was over fifty, slight in figure,
and not above five feet seven in height, with a com-
plexion that spoke of India and currie powder. His
expression of countenance was not a pleasant one, and
it was patent to me in a moment that my reception, so
far as he was concerned, would be anything but agree-
able.

I asked for Sir Colin ; in response, my business with
him was demanded in the most surly and high pitched
voice. " To deliver an introduction I answered ; " but
this in no wise molified the wrath, or at least, let me say,
softened the manner of my questioner. Several further
questions and responses took place, and I fully expected
the door to be slammed in my face, when a kindly voice
from within called out " what is the matter ? "

" Only a youngster wants to see you."

" Let him come in then."

So in I entered, and stood before a spare but remarkably
well-knit man, of moderate height, apparently not young,
but still possessed of much of the elasticity of youth.
His expression was kind and genial, still there was a look
in that heavy beetling brow, although it was capped with
curly locks, that denoted wonderful resolution, power of
discrimination, and a capacity to act promptly, whatever
might be the emergency.

My reception was homely in the extreme. My wel-
come was kindly given and kindly meant, and when the
introduction had been read, warmer still were the words
of welcome he gave me. After a time, he said, " You
must be hungry, have something to eat, I'm just going

HOME AGAIN ! 269

to have my lunch ; " so he went to the stove, (similar to
whatis called in America a box stove) and took from the
top of it a considerable sized oat-cake ; this he divided
in two, handing me the one part, himself taking the
other. With evident satisfaction he ate his share, what-
ever my face may have expressed, it was a hard struggle
for me to get through mine. Never was there a man
with apparently less affectation or mannerism.

At length our simple meal was finished, when learn-
ing that I was going over to the Heavy Cavalry Brigade,
he volunteered to accompany me ; so we started to cross
the vineyards on foot.

These were intersected by deep and broad ditches ; I
never was a great hand at leaping, thus on several occa-
sions I nearly got pounded, but at last when we
approached a rasper, I in reality could go no further,
while Sir Colin bounded over it like a deer from his
native hills.

Up and down this ditch I had to go to look for a
crossing, and until my persevering search was rewarded
with success, the hero of innumerable battles, the idol of
his native soldiers, the future Commander-in-Chief of
India, laughed as if he would do himself an injury.
After this I frequently saw him, and if he happened to
be disengaged at the time, he never forgot to enquire
whether I could jump any better. Not that I jumped
worse than the majority of other men; but the fact was,
whether he knew it or not, and I strongly suspect
he did, Sir Colin Campbell was a wonderfully good hand

at it.

Even with the sounds of war ever booming in our

270 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

ears, and with daily reports of casualties issued among
us, still life was very pleasant; many, many happy
hours were enjoyed, while friendships were cemented
that life would only terminate.

True there was one time, about the commencement of
February 1855, when we, at least some of us, began to
think the mother country had forgotten us. This dis-
mal idea was due to scanty food, protracted bad weather,
and to our ranks being rapidly thinned by disease, while,
when we were off duty, time hung rather heavily on our
hands; but I venture to say, although we could not have
mustered our eighteen thousand righting men, we were
equal to accomplish aught on earth that courage and
determination could do.

Soon after this time I got my Ensigncy, but as the
Regiment was in the Colonies, my request to be per-
mitted to remain here was acceded to ; and six weeks
afterwards I was gazetted to a Lieutenancy in one of
the regiments serving here.

Philip Upton and I were now more than ever together,
the noble qualities I had recognised in him in America
had ripened, and instead of being a kind good hearted
brave lad, he was now a kind good-hearted brave man,
still possibly not as thoughtless as before, and more con-
siderate of others' feelings, in fact he was one that to
know was to honour.

With the splendid spring weather, that came in March,
a wonderful change came over the camp and country
adjoining ; the mud dried up, grass and numerous wild
flowers sprung up on all sides, and innumerable
migratory birds enlivened the surroundings with their

HOME AGAIN !

2 7 I

musical sweet notes. Camp life in fine weather is
wondrously enjoyable, and if a stranger could have seen
us when the balmy days of spring had fairly commenced
particularly if he were a city dweller, how much he must
have envied our utter disregard of all tedious conven-
tionalities ; and of amusements we had an abundance,
for there were flat races, steeple and hurdle races, dog
hunts and paper hunts or a gallop to Kameish Katikoi
or Balaklava, to forage for both the luxuries and
necessaries of life. Everybody appeared to have plenty
of money, and to spend it as freely as if he possessed
somewhere an unlimited credit.

We had just arrived at the joyous time I have been
speaking off, when one day Upton joined me im-
mediately after parade. That he had something
important to communicate I could see from the
expression of his face.

" Well Phil, what is it ? anything serious ? " I asked.
" I should say so, look here Swan, I bought from
the captain of one of the transports yesterday afternoon
when at Balaklava such a pony, under fourteen hands,
can gallop like the wind, and if I am not mistaken
jump like a buck. We'll enter him for the hurdle race
for Galloways at the Division races, and till then keep
him dark ; you'll ride him, for you can get into the
saddle a good stone less than I can ; come and see
him."

As I had nothing to do, we sauntered over to inspect
the new treasure. He was all that could be desired.
With the power of a draft horse, he was so admirably
put together that there was no coarseness to be de-

272 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

tected. The eye certainly had a slight look of vice,
yet there was no other reason to suspect it, in fact to me
it gave the impression of gameness ; but there was
one sad blemish, viz., his late companions, whether
mules or horses, had eaten every particle of hair off
his tail.

Many were the sly canters he got, many were the
stone walls he was jumped over, and when the day of
test came, he was pronounced to be fit to go for a man's
life. Though I thoroughly believed him capable of
beating all opponents, I could not help begging Phil
not to be too sanguine, and not to risk any more money
in bets. But although I warned him of the possibility
of accidents, he only laughed at me and went on taking
all the odds he could get offered. There was not much
harm done, however; he was rich, and the loss of a
hundred pounds or so did not signify to him.

The meeting was a most enthusiastic one ; the
best amateur military jockeys of England were going to
ride in several of the events ; so all that were off duty,
as well as the officers of the huge transport fleet, were
present to admire their skill. The great race of the
day was a steeple-chase, Shiffner of the 33rd, and
Thomas of the Artillery rode in this, and were con-
sidered such worthy antagonists that it was hard to say
which was the favourite. The struggle was most
exciting, but at one of the last fences and near home
they ran foul of each other and both fell. So the
stakes were taken by a comparative outsider.

But now the time came for me to get up. After a
preliminary canter, I joined the field of antagonists, and

HOME AGAIN !

273

to my annoyance found that my mount became ex-
ceedingly fractious, even vicious, when in the society
of so many of his race; so much so, indeed, that
when assembling for the start, I was obliged to take an
outside place. At length the flag fell and we were off ;
the pace was very sharp, but my nag getting the bit in
his teeth refused to be steadied, so we rushed through
the ruck and he soon was leading by several lengths.

We were now approaching the first flight of hurdles ;
but either my unfortunate steed did not see them, or he
judged them unworthy of his attention ; so he rushed at
them as if the slightest push would overturn them.
But they were stiff and well put up ; consequently
instead of sending them flying, he sent me several
yards over his head, while he himself indulged
in the pastime of turning a somersault. When I
again regained the saddle it was too late ; thus I lost
the race and Phil's money ; but was so fortunate as to
escape without serious injury. Our rat-tailed favourite
was never again trusted with hurdles, but he atoned for
his disgrace by winning many an after race.

Happier days than these I never passed, I believe all
that were with the army would say the same, as day
followed day and the pleasures of one were eclipsed by
those of its successor. There were no jealousies, bicker-
ings, and quarrels. Off duty the junior officer met his
senior as a friend and counsellor, good feeling reigned
paramount, and the only competition that occurred was
when a race was run or an earth-work had to be stormed,
and on such occasions there always was a struggle for the
lead. True occasionally a friendly face was missed from

274 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

the little asemblies of friends ; all knew he had gone to
the doom that all must sooner or later meet, but after the
first announcement of a casualty, the subject was seldom
alluded to, although I dare say in private the unfortun-
ate one was as much and as sincerely grieved over as
in the busy haunts of cities and towns.

One lovely morning, such a one as is seldom seen in
any other country, Phil and I, as was frequently our
wont, sauntered up to Cathcart's or Green Hill to have
a look at the beleagured city.

Although occasionally guns at wide intervals would
belch forth their columns of smoke and fire, awakening
the echoes far and near, or puffs of white smoke gradually
increasing and then as gradually diminishing against the
clear blue sky, would tell when shells had burst, yet all
was so still and placid that one could scarcely believe
that every building, fortification and earth-work was
filled with armed men. Not a ripple was on that blue,
blue sea, in the harbour numerous boats plied to and
fro, while in the offing lay our fleet, reduced by distance
from mammoths to miniature toy vessels, though from
every yard could be seen canvass drying in the morn-
ing sun.

Even the sea-gulls here looked whiter than in other
countries as they sailed on snowy pinion over the deep
cobalt blue sea. The ground around us was redolent
of wild flowers that grew on every side in the most
lavish profusion. It was truly a goodly scene, every-
thing in it that emanated from the Creator was bright
and pure and revived feelings of peace and good will.
But what shall I say of the surroundings that emanated

HOME AGAIN !

275

from the hands of men ? It will hardly bear to be
thought of much less dwelt on.

Philip was in more buoyant spirits than usual ; he
was loud in praises of his profession, delighted with his
regiment, and what pleased him better still, he expected
in every gazette to find himself made a captain ; neither
had I anything to grumble at in the way of promotion,
for already I had several lieutenants my juniors, but we
were not long permitted to enjoy the discussion of our
plans and future proceedings, for a gun that had not
been previously fired, vomited forth a mass of smoke
and fire and before the report reached us a round shot
bobbed so close to our position that it was considered
prudent to shift our quarters. This was a common trick
of the Russians. Two or three people together if within
range, invariably had a gun aligned upon them. This
practice was much denounced by our people ; but I
suppose all is fair in love and war.

However, on this occasion we may not have been the
objects aimed at ; for just behind us, and consequently a
trifle further from Sebastapol, was a lime kiln about which
a considerable sized fatigue party were now engaged.

That evening we both had to go into the trenches on
duty. Upton with the advance work, I with the
reserve. As was the custom, we mustered at sunset, or
soon after, availing ourselves of the ensuing darkness
to reach our several posts. This was necessary, as there
were numerous open spaces to be crossed, and a heavy
fire would have been opened on us if we had been seen
passing them.

The night was unusually dark, but calm, when we

276 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

parted company. I had been busy with my people for
two or three hours in repairing damages in the works,
and assisting to get a fresh gun into position ; so time
passed by rapidly, nor had I noticed that dark clouds
were rising in the south-west, and rapidly driving down
upon us. The velocity with which they travelled told
of an approaching storm of wind, not improbably ac-
companied by rain. In this climate changes are so
frequent and rapid that I was in no way surprised at
this, but from experience I knew that such an occasion
was just the one to be taken advantage of by the enemy
for an assault upon our works. I could not help fidget-
ing myself about Upton ; did he notice these atmos-
pheric changes, and had he taken additional precautions
in consequence ? The more I thought, the more
uneasy I became; till I felt that nothing would give me
relief but to go and warn him. I argued with myself
that such a course was unnecessary, that he knew more
of soldiers than I did, and that to attend to my own
duties was all that I was expected to do. But no, this
reasoning would not suffice, a presentiment of mis-
fortune came over me, so to relieve my mind, I asked
my senior officer to permit me to proceed to the advance
work and gave him my reason for doing so.

" Go, if you like ; but I really think it unnecessary,"
was the answer I received.

Not waiting an instant I sprang over the trench,
crossed the open rapidly, and reached Philip's Command
almost breathless. The first man I met was a colour
sergeant. " Where is Lieutenant Upton ? " I enquired.
" In front of the ditch ; some of the men affirm they

HOME AGAIN ! 277

have just heard sounds that resemble a body of men
marching. If so we'll give it them hot if they come."
The non-commissioned officer sent a man with me to
point out my friend's hiding-place ; no easy matter, for
the night now had become inky dark, while huge
scattered drops of rain fell upon the ground with a dull
dead sound.

Philip lay at length in a slight trench, in front of
which were one or two stones. As I took my place
beside him, he told me in a suppressed voice that he
felt convinced the enemy were at hand, so near, in
fact, that he was only waiting the moment to order his
men to open fire. I noticed his right hand held his
revolver, while his sword lay without a scabbard by his
side.

While I too was drawing my pistol to be prepared
for an emergency, he whispered to me, " Yes, there they
are, we had better get inside the works ; " but ere the
words had left his mouth a dark figure, followed by
several others, loomed over us. In a moment Upton
sprung to his knee, and aiming at the face of the leader
of the foe, he pressed his trigger. There was a momen-
tary flash, and a heavy fall, that told of instant death.
But in that flash, rapid as it was, there was time to see
and distinguish the face of the slain ; both of us saw it,
and both recognised it ; it was Serge Soldatenkoff.

The deed was done, but to save ourselves was our
duty, not only to ourselves, but to our men. This I
rapidly accomplished ; but not without twice having to
call my revolver into use. Philip was engaged in like
manner in my rear ; but the roar of musketry all along

278 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK,

and in front of our lines now drowned the noise of the
smaller weapons.

The action was sharp, quick, and decisive. The
enemy got into our works ; but were rapidly driven
out ; again they assaulted them and gained the
ditch, but no further could they force their way ; so
that in spite of their courage, and the stealth with which
they had accomplished their approach, they were com-
pelled to retire through a scorching shower of rifle
bullets.

Within ten minutes of the firing of the first shot all
was over, I had come through the fight scatheless ; in
my left hand was an empty revolver, in my right hand
a blood-stained sword.

" But where is Upton ? " " Has any one seen Lieu-
tenant Upton ? " I called out to the men.

" Yes, sir, he is behind those gabions wounded." I
immediately sought him ; but, alas, he was unconscious.
A stretcher soon afterwards arrived, and he was borne
to the rear.

Thus, in one night, what disaster had been wrought
among the three friends, who had sworn themselves to
eternal friendship, where the calm Pacific washes the
golden shores of fruitful California.

CHAPTER XVIII.

CONCLUSION.

I HAD left the army several years since. The regiment
had changed so much through promotion, death, and
other causes, that scarcely any of my old associates had
been left in it, and my private affairs required my own
constant personal supervision, so not without a hard,
hard struggle, I had made up my mind to sell out.
The wound Upton had received was so serious, that long
he lay at the Palace Hospital at Scutari, hovering
between life and death. Subsequently he was invalided,
returned home, and was placed on half-pay. When I
had been at home he had always chanced to be abroad
travelling. Report said he had much changed, and that
the light-hearted, thoughtless, reckless youth, had
become morose, quarrelsome, and vindictive. This sad
change was attributed to his having been the cause of
the death of his friend Soldatenkoff. His attachment
to our mutual friend there could be no doubt of. If
other proof had been wanting, it was evidenced by his
going back to the Crimea to see a tombstone placed
over his last resting-place. Several times I had tried
to induce him to visit me, but without success. In fact
I had given up as fruitless all attempts to induce him
to do so, when my hopes were again excited by the
receipt of the following letter :

280 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

"THE ALBANY, 2^th March 186 .

" DEAR JACK, Whom do you think I met in Picca-
dilly? No other than Philip Upton. He has just returned
from his wanderings, looks fearfully ill, and is as morose
as ever. However I wormed out of him the secret of
his address, which I enclose you. Serge SoldatenkofFs
death, and his being the hand by which he fell, seems
to weigh heavier on his mind than ever.

" There is only one man who can save him, and that
is yourself. Ask him down to your place, make him
shoot, fish, hunt, in fact do anything to prevent his
brooding. If something of this nature is not done he
is lost. Excuse my writing so strongly, but I know
you love him as much as any one living. Yours
sincerely,* JOE ARMITAGE."

By return post I replied as follows :

" HEATHER GREEN, NORTHUMBERLAND.
" DEAR JOE, Send the sick man to me as soon as
possible. If fresh air, trout-fishing, &c., assisted by
forty-seven port, don't pull him together and cause him
to forget the past, nothing will. Write soon and tell
me all particulars. Ever yours sincerely,

JOHN SWAN."
"2$th March 186 ."

Day after day passed, and to open the letter -bag
was to suffer disappointment. This necessary parti-
cular of the equipment of a country house I had always
previously viewed with pleasure ; now I detested the
sight of it. So much so that I had already considered

CONCLUSION. 281

whether it would not be expedient to hand over my
key, that key that at one time I had so much treasured,
and which I considered the emblem of my authority,
to Mrs Wilson, the lady who condescended to super-
intend my household arrangements, and keep discip-
line among the maids, when the following note was
received :

" ALMA COTTAGE, BLACKHEATH.

" DEAR JACK, Having nothing till now to say about
Upton I did not write sooner. In fact it had com-
menced to dawn upon me that he was keeping out of
my way. However as luck would have it I pounced
upon him to-day. He still looks dreadfully ill, and his
nervous system is fearfully shattered. When I in-
formed him of your invitation, he pled the distance you
live from town as an excuse for declining it ; but after
a time my eloquence prevailed, and he has promised in
a few days to visit you. If you do not hear from me
by post, I will telegraph his departure from Euston.

" If nothing unforeseen occurs, I shall follow him in a
few days. Just fancy us three sitting again around the
same hearth-stone. Very truly yours,

JOSEPH ARMITAGE."
April 1870."

After the receipt of this letter, the post bag was
restored to favour for four or five days, and I guarded
its key as zealously as heretofore ; but alas ! it was des-
tined again to get into disgrace, and that for a longer
period than previously, for not only did one week pass,

282 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

but two, and still no further information in reference to
Philip's visit. Age makes us all testy and irritable.
On persons of some professions it has more effect than
upon others ; sailors and soldiers in my opinion being
the most liable to this influence. If I had lived fifty
years ago, I would undoubtedly have sworn, but oaths
are not now considered becoming a gentleman, so I
only bit my lips, walked hurriedly up and down my
breakfast room, and kicked the stool when it was not
too far out of my way.

A change having occurred in the weather, and mild
south-west winds been substituted for easterlies, I
resolved one morning to make my debut for the season
among the trout. The prospect of enjoying my favourite
sport acted as a sedative, so I munched my toast and
drank my tea with the post bag lying unopened before
me. At length my trap came to the door. I asked
myself the question, Shall I or shall I not open that
bag ? To disappoint the thing, if that were possible, I
almost resolved to leave it alone, but the thought arose
in my mind, if poor Philip were to arrive during my
absence, how dull he would feel till my return ; so I
seized the bag rudely, undid the lock, and found another
letter from Armitage. It was short and to the point as
the reader will perceive.

"BLACKHEATH.

"DEAR JACK, Upton has disappeared ; no one knows
where he has gone. From his landlady I learn that for
several days previous to his departure he appeared like
one going out of his mind. I have communicated with

CONCLUSION. 283

the police, and will write you further in a few days.
Very truly yours, JOSEPH ARMITAGE."

Whoever thinks that soldiers are hard-hearted people
make a great mistake. Except sailors I do not think
there are any men possessed of more of the milk of
human kindness. " Poor Philip ! poor fellow ! " I
exclaimed, and how much more I was going to say I
know not, when the servant informed me that the trap
was waiting. It was forthwith consigned to the coach-
house, and my domestic to well, I do not swear, but
I felt like it. It was no use going to fish that day, how-
ever lively the trout might have risen, and however
heavy the basket might have been made. I would not
have enjoyed the sport, for my heart would not have
been in my work. So I made a victim of myself, shut
myself in my room, alarmed the servants into believing
that I was seriously ill, and then scolded them in rota-
tion for presuming to think I was mortal.

The great restorer of the exhausted system, sleep,
refused to come to my aid that night; so when morning
broke, I had not closed my eyes. A presentiment of
evil, so often the forerunner of misfortune, kept pressing
upon my brain, so to gain relief, if it were possible, I
rose from my couch, rode to the nearest post town, sent
a telegram to Armitage, requesting that I might learn
as soon as possible any fresh news that should be heard
of my missing friend.

By ten o'clock A.M. the following answer was brought
me. "The police are completely at fault, not the

284 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

slightest clue having been obtained that might lead to a
knowledge of his whereabouts."

A week's further suspense, still no news. And the
anxiety had told upon me so much, that seriously I did
not feel well, and with my consent the doctor had been
admitted within the precincts of my room, change of
air that ever safe remedy to apply to rich people was
recommended. So for want of a better choice, and to
be as near home as possible, I selected Tynemouth.

The mouth of the Tyne, or Tynemouth, is as pretty a
little sequestered watering-place as any to be found in
England. That in the neighbourhood of so large and
prosperous a town as Newcastle, it should remain so
diminutive in size, and enjoy so respectable a repose,
has surprised many. Some of the streets even boast a
crop of grass, and recall visions of half-asleep, half-
deserted continental cities, where traffic is so dead that
the patter of a passer's feet are rare sounds to be heard,
and strike upon the ear of the listener with a weird-like
distinctness that is almost supernatural.

For a few days the contrast from my previous life was
charming, but after I had made acquaintance with all
the children, nursery-maids and dogs, listened twice
over to the stories of the numerous fishermen and
sailors, heard narrated the lifeboat crew's adventures
and escapes, I commenced to long for change. In this
inclination I was so zealously supported by my house-
keeper that an early day was fixed for our departure,
and my methodical factotum had already commenced
to make me uncomfortable by her preparations for pack-
ing up. There are few men who like packing; to me it

CONCLUSION. 285

is a detestable labour, and all my life I have regarded
it as such ; thus I am only too glad to depute it to
another. By this I certainly escape what I dislike, but
I become a victim days before the time of starting, to the
interference of those to whom the duty is deputed.

As was my custom, I had left my lodgings at half-past
twelve, and should have returned in a couple of hours,
but for two reasons, the first was, that I expected every-
thing in my rooms to be upside down, favourite pipes
nowhere to be found ; pens, ink, and paper, secreted in
mysterious corners, and even beer or brandy difficult
to discover ; the second, that the appearance of the
weather seaward was so peculiar that it attracted the un-
usual attention of all the sea-going population, and
caused me considerable surprise. As I had knocked
about the world a great deal, any unusual appearance
in the heavens did not need to be very marked to at-
tract my attention, but I felt convinced that an English
sky, such as I now observed, portended mischief. The
zenith had a peculiar lurid look, such as might be
caused by the reflection of a distant volcanoe ; this
gradually shaded off into inky clouds, becoming more
the more opaque and dense as they reached the horizon.
On the sand, close to the top of the little bay that
adjoins the mouth of the river, where the pleasure boats
and bathing machines are pulled up, quite a coterie of
old sea-going dogs were assembled. From the few
words of their conversation that I caught in passing, it
was evident to me that something of more than usual
importance was being discussed.

Now, there were few of these men that I had not pre-

286 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

viously conversed with ; so, wondering what could be
so interesting to all of them, I retraced my steps and
joined them.

"What is the matter? has any accident happened ?"
was my inquiry. The oldest of the party, with much
gravity, deposited from his mouth in his hand, in a semi-
liquid state, a piece of tobacco almost as large as a
billiard ball ; and, having got rid of this impediment to
speech, cleared his throat for a minute or two, and thus
spake :

" Your honour, did you ever see such a sky without
a gale following on its heels ? I have been five and fifty
years, off and on, following the sea, and if it don't pipe
up one of the heaviest gales, we have had for years, this
blessed night, you can just say I ar'nt weather-wise."

At the conclusion of this speech, another chimed in,
addressing his conversation to the previous speaker,
" You may say that, Ben, for if you had seen the sun
rise, all red and pink, you might be certain, even without
them black clouds seaward, that before twenty-four
hours are over, these crafts that have not plenty of sea-
room will have more work to claw off shore than they
either like or bargain for."

As I have stated, the sky had already struck me as
peculiar, and I could not but coincide in the opinion
that it looked ominous of a coming tempest. Still, the
water on the bar of the river, and in the little bay was with-
out a surface ripple. True, the long ocean roll came tum-
bling in, but here it almost ever does so, and thus did not
demand particular notice. Not a breath of wind moved
the atmosphere, and later on in the day, when no altera-

CONCLUSION. 287

tion had taken place, I almost began to regard our
forebodings as false ; but, early in the afternoon, one of
the sailors called attention to a shoal of porpoises which
appeared unusually active and much nearer than usual
to the shore. " It may blow big guns, or not enough
for a craft to take in her royals, but I never seen them
sea-pigs frisking about inshore without a close reefed
topsail breeze following." " I guess Ben were right, and
that them that's afloat this night will look long and
anxious for the rise of to-morrow's sun," he said. I
should have remained longer, but my dinner hour had
come, and as nothing makes my housekeeper so ill tem-
pered as keeping that meal waiting, I bid my companions
good bye, not forgetting to tip them sufficiently to pro-
cure each of them some liquor to warm their old hearts.
It often annoyed me that my housekeeper was so ex-
acting upon the subject of punctuality. I frequently
made up my mind to assert my place as master, and
put her down to her proper position, but whenever the
time came for action, I postponed doing so; why, I
could not exactly say, whether that I was afraid of the
struggle, or that I did not like to hurt the poor creature's
feelings ; I believe it must have been the latter.

Of one thing I am certain, that whenever I exhibited
the slightest disposition to show that I would be master
in my own house, my pipe ceased to smoke comfortably,
the water for my toddy was warm not hot, the tea had
been boiled, or not made with boiling water, and a hun-
dred other things would go wrong. Now, this was a
coincidence, and might have been accepted as a warn-
ing of providence, that my household never could have

288 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

got on without the aid of this lady's valuable superin-
tendence.

When I was a younger man, I thought that military
life would be perfect happiness, if such things as adjut-
ants did not exist ; later on, fidgetty colonels and in-
spectors-generals of infantry took their place, and were
regarded equally with aversion, but now that I had
sold out, and therefore had a right to be entire master
of my own actions and do just as I pleased, I was occa-
sionally induced to think that I was once more a recruit,
with the sergeant-major living in the house with me.

I am not surprised that so many military men die
bachelors, especially among cavalry and linesmen, for
promotion in wedlock does not go by rotation, and the
junior often bullies the senior. Engineers and gunners,
like parsons, have no objection to jumping into the holy
bond, because they are so highly educated, and possess
such an amount of gab, that they can ever prove .that
black is white, and so talk the partners of their joys
and troubles down.

Dinner was just ready when I reached my lodgings,
and the obsequious smile my attendant vouchsafed me
as she deprived me of my greatcoat and hat, left
me no pretext on this occasion for any show of
authority.

Dinner passed as dinners usually do, only I sat
longer over it, and had more than forty winks after-
wards. However when I awoke I went to the window
to learn how the weather was. What a change had
taken place in a few hours. The wind in fitful gusts,
loaded with rain, beat upon the window, the little bay

CONCLUSION.

289

beneath was in such a commotion as could only have
been expected if it had covered an active submerged
volcano, while the bar across the mouth of the river
was white as snow with broken and angry waves.
In the hall of my lodgings stood a barometer. In
houses of this description at watering-places this is
not unusual, for I believe nine out of ten of such estab-
lishments are kept by the relicts, sisters or mothers, of
sailors. I approached it and tapped it knowingly, and
down the index hand went, so far and so fast that for
some time I was uncertain whether I had not broken
something inside it. At length it ceased descending,
and as I could not discover a leak, I became satisfied
that I had done no harm, but that the mysterious
conduct of the machine was owing to some extra-
ordinary atmospheric influence. Although it was my
habit to take an afternoon stroll, the constant and
heavy rain prevented my going forth, still I felt an
uncontrollable desire to descend to the beach, for a
feeling that I was wanted there, or that I might be of
some service took possession of me so strongly that I
took my greatcoat from the peg, and was about to put
it on, when Mrs Wilson stepped out from her sanctuary
and expressed her disapproval of my proceeding in
such strong terms, that I hemmed and hawed, bungled
out some unintelligible excuse, and relinquished into
her hands the garments, which forthwith were replaced
by her in their original position.

But there are times when we can neither settle to
read, write, or sleep. This was exactly my case. I
picked up a book, one that was more than usually

2QO TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

interesting, looked at its pages for some minutes, then
laid it down. Suddenly remembering that I had not
for some time written to Armitage, I attempted to
indite him a letter, but soon found I had nothing to
say, or had forgotten what I wished to tell him, nor
could I frame a sentence intelligibly. So, blaming the
pen, I relinquished the task, and endeavoured to com-
pose myself to a second nap. But sleep of all the
powers is the most fickle to invoke whoever knew it
come when most wanted as when you have over
exerted yourself and are very fatigued, or when you
have not taken enough of exercise to feel fatigued, yet
the body craves for sleep. This was exactly the state
I was in.

When we are youngsters we go to bed, turn over on
our side, and utter oblivion to the outer world takes place
till our- accustomed hour for rising arises, and all this
is accepted as a matter of course, and gratitude for
such a blessing never enters our feelings. Could the
mature man revert again to boyhood, I know no bless-
ing he would be more grateful for than that of sound,
unbroken sleep.

While I thus tossed and fretted, I became aware that
the storm was increasing in violence, and that the
angry fitful gusts of wind more rapidly succeeded each
other and increased momentarily in intensity.

I never retire early to rest, the habits which one
adopts between the age of eighteen and thirty are apt to
stick through life.

In the army a few years ago the mess hour was half-
past seven. By the time the wine had gone three or four

CONCLUSION.

291

times round the table, nine o'clock had arrived ; the
ante-room was generally then adjourned to by all,
except such as had some prior engagement, where
shilling point whist or limited loo filled up the time till
it was deemed desirable to retire. After twelve, more
frequently than before, was the time of adjournment.
Thus between twelve and one is my most frequent hour
for going to roost, but a very slight excuse indeed, so
slight] that I have often fabricated it, would make the
retiring time a couple of hours later.

The wind, which up to ten or eleven had only rather
forcibly clutched the house tops and embraced the
chimneys with ruder than polite clasp, now at I A.M.
fairly shrieked around the gables and endeavoured to
throw them down ; doors and shutters, not only in my
own apartment, but in those adjoining, slammed and
crashed as if they would dash themselves to pieces, thus
the turmoil outside was indicative in reality, not in form
of speech, of a warring of the elements, a battle of no
ordinary severity, but one in which the aerial force was
determined to do all the injury in its power to whatever
resisted it. With ears strained to the utmost tension, I
listened, strange sounds echoed through the deserted
streets, chimney pots and tiles seemed suddenly to be
embued with life, and to be committing suicide by hurl-
ing themselves down from their exalted positions.
Again the striking or ringing of the clocks and bells
would rise to such alarming distinctness as to cairse the
listener to imagine that they had shifted their locale to
the immediate vicinity of his apartment, and be followed
immediately afterwards by their dying away with

292 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

startling abruptness. As time passed the gale ceased
to be gusty, and rose to an uninterrupted violence,
which it appeared impossible could be increased ; still it
did increase, till it became a matter of wonder what
would be the result if it ceased to regard the strength of
former gales as a precedent, in a vainglorious spirit to
outdo all predecessors.

The coming of rain after a protracted drought affects
all the animal creation. The fish that have previously
been so torpid that the stream appeared untenanted,
become all life. The lion whose voice has long ceased to
be heard, makes his roar re-echo from rock and hill side.
The stag, usually silent, except at the rutting season,
previous to rain, with his harsh bocking and neighing,
informs the shepherd that he is still a frequenter of
the neighbourhood ; while even our domestic pet the cat,
ceases to join head and tail together, and quietly snooze
before the cheerful fire, and must be out and doing.

As it is with the inferior animal creation, so it is with
men (possibly not with the city clerk, or man intensely
devoted to business who knows no other haunts than
the vicinity of his office, or thinks of nothing else than
adding shillings or pounds to his horde) ; with such men
as have travelled beyond the precincts of the country in
which they were born, visited lands south of the equator,
or countries so distant that their existence to the
home toiler is only known by report. Thus when a
storm is imminent, certainly when it has commenced,
whether sheltered or not, I want to go forth, to feel its
influences, to glory in fighting it, to feel that I have
power to resist it, and brave its utmost fury.

CONCLUSION.

293

At sea it is so as well as on land, for I would no more
submit to be engulfed in an ocean tomb under decks, if
it was in my power to avoid such a fate, than I would
prefer death from a loathsome disease to dying in har-
ness, with my front to the enemy and my right hand
ready to strike.

As the animals feel, when the warring elements rage,
so feel I ; regardless of rain and wind I must seek the
open air, and although fear of coming in contact with
my domestic tyrant prevented my earlier going forth,
no longer could I delay, so I rushed into the hall to equip
myself suitably for carrying out my purpose. The
hour, although such as some would say that all good
people should be in bed, did not prevent my meeting
my housekeeper. As I took down my greatcoat from
its peg, she vouchsafed the remark that " surely I was
not going out, for that would be the action of one
demented."

To this I said nothing, but pressing my cap firmly on
my head, hurriedly opened the hall door, and slammed it
behind me. Scarcely had I left the steps that lead up
to the house, for my residence was in a terrace facing
the sea, in front of which was an enclosed garden, when
from seawards came the report of a gun. From the
ruined church, the lighthouse, the barracks, and the
cliffs adjoining, it echoed and re-echoed. Silently,
almost holding my breath, I listened for its repetition,
steadily fixing my gaze in the direction from whence it
appeared to come.

For five minutes I remained in painful suspense,
when a flash lit up the heavens, and the dead dull

2Q4 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

sound of a distant cannon again awoke the echoes.
As I supposed, it was a ship ashore or about to strike,
for from the direction that was indicated, full well I
knew that the craft that fired these signals of distress
must have already struck or would do so in a few
minutes, so God help those on board of her, I thought,
for there ran out for nearly a mile a rocky reef that had
smashed the ribs and ground out the bottom of many a
gallant craft. A wilder sea ne'er broke on reef, than at
one moment engulfed and at another surged around
this place, when the wind blew with violence from its
present direction. The wanderer can tell of Capes
Hope and Horn, of Capes Race and Hatirass; but
those who reside in the North of England need not
travel further than Tynemouth to see the most for-
midable breakers.

Again and again reverberated from ruin and rock the
deep sounding booming report, and more than one blue
light lit up the scene with its lurid unearthly glare, but
I feared no help from shore could come to the un-
fortunates. I stood speechless, spell-bound, with my
eyes riveted with a strange fascination upon the position
where this destructive reef lay, and prayed mentally
that the Great Creator would be merciful. Ten minutes
I might have been thus occupied, when a sound as if of
many voices in angry dispute, or as the expression of
the determination of persons to overcome some obstacle,
rose and fell with the eddying blast. At first I could
not understand its import ; but suddenly it flashed
upon me that the life-boat lay directly underneath the
cliff on which I stood, and that its crew were about to

CONCLUSION.

295

launch it, to risk home and life with the hope of saving
some of the sailors of the stranded vessel. To wish
them God-speed, to encourage them in their brave
work, I hurried down the path that led to the little bay.
So intensely dark was the night that scarcely a yard
could I see before me ; but instinct guided my steps till
the beach was reached, when the uncertain fitful light
of several lanterns showed me the remainder of my
course.

But even in this sequestered sheltered spot it was no
easy matter to guide my footsteps, for frequently a
giant wave, more angry than its predecessors, raced up
the beech, hissing malice in its unimpeded wrath.

But was this a time to think of wet and discomfort ?
Surely not ; so regardless of footing, foam and storm, I
gained the assembled crowd. Earnestly each applied
himself to his allotted task, till all was ready for a start,
still it was delayed ; but why should this be, was not
every moment of consequence ? yes, of vital importance,
for short indeed would be the existence of any u *ship
exposed to such a sea, beating with all its unbridled
fury upon its rock-imprisoned sides. My impatience
could not be controlled longer. Almost in upbraiding
terms I enquired the reason, at the same time pointing
out with unwonted energy the necessity for haste.

" True for you," answered a voice, which on closer
scrutiny I discovered came from Ben, my acquaintance
of the morning; "but," he continued, "we're short
handed, unless we can find another man to pull an oar
we'll never get over the bar."

To this appeal, for such it might be deemed, no

296 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

response was made, although many seafaring men stood
around, judging from their attire. Was this a time to
hesitate ? I urged and pleaded ; but all my powers of
speech were without avail. Was this like British sea-
men ? no, certainly not ; and I knew them well, there-
fore there must be a reason. This I soon discovered ;
the absentee had taken away his life-belt, and whoever
shipped in his place must go without. And only the
year before a disaster had occurred at this place from
such a piece of negligence, that could not fail to be
fresh in the memory of all.

In bygone years I had had plenty of experience row-
ing, not only on placid river bosoms, but in many a
heavy sea. Practice may be necessary to keep in train-
ing, but even without it, the hands do not forget their
cunning. So I seized a sweep, and expressed my deter-
mination to take the vacant seat. A murmur of appro-
bation followed my decision. My attire was scarcely
suited for my task, but the use of pilot jackets and
comforters was offered on every side ; to don them was
but the work of a moment, and a few minutes after, our
lean sharp prow was pointed to the bar of the river,
while under our strong united power we rapidly ap-
proached it.

Either the moon had risen, or some previously ob-
scured stars now shed their light on the scene, or the
open water being free from the shadowing cliffs, the
darkness ceased to be of such intensity ; this we regarded
as a blessing vouchsafed upon the labour we had under-
taken.

Nearer and nearer we approached the bar, scarcely a

297

word had been spoken so far, when our coxswain brac-
ing himself on his legs, sung out in a mellow cheery
voice, " Now my hearties, send her into it." And all I
am certain, did their best, even I who had been using
my uttermost vigour, found out that I had still a little
extra power left.

As the reader knows, I was not without experience
in ocean and boating matters, the memory of past
struggles with wild and threatening seas now rose
before me and gave me fresh strength, but I felt con-
vinced that never previously saw I ought so terrible, so
fearful, as the boiling, surging, broken water upon
Tynemouth bar on that fearful night.

The seething bubbling surface of a boiling caldron
increased a hundred-thousand-fold, is the best represen-
tation I can give of the aspect of the sea. To describe
its violence, force, and impetuosity, would be impossible.
Manfully our crew hung to their sweeps, every pull
seemed to embue their arms with fresh vigour. Still
our advance was slow, even the ash sweeps seemed to
groan and writhe under their ordeal, and threatened
momentarily to break in sunder, but the wood was well
seasoned, and stood its trial as staunchly as those that
plied them. Again our coxswain treated us to a word
of encouragement, " A dozen strokes more, my hearties,
the best you ever pulled, and we'll be again in blue
water," and all did his behest ; our craft fairly trembled
under our strength, forward against the incoming wave
she rushed, and gallantly breasted it, but ere she could
recover, a larger sea than its predecessor struck the boat,
filled us to the gunwale, and washed me overboard.

298 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

For a moment I struggled to gain the surface, in that
moment I lived a lifetime ; strong swimmer as I was,
an instant was sufficient to tell me how little my skill
could avail me in this deluge of broken water, for in this
chaos of surf there is nothing to give buoyancy, nothing
to contend against, and I had given up all for lost, not
that I intended dying one instant before my time, but
that no effort of mine could prolong my existence, when
my arm and coat collar were seized by a strong pair of
hands and I was forcibly dragged on board.

A narrow escape I know I had, that my comrades
thought so I was not long in learning. My immersion
had not been sufficiently long to do me injury. So by
dint of skilfully balancing myself, and carefully studying
the rise and fall of the boat, I regained my seat and
sweep. Of course, I was wet, dripping wet, but we all
were in the same state, still we did not suffer from cold,
for we were kept too actively engaged not to keep our
blood in active circulation, and even had it been otherwise,
the hope of being of service to the unfortunates on the
reef was sufficient to make us forget our own sufferings.

For some time no signal gun had been fired by the
stranded ship. I could not help construing this as a bad
omen, but for fear of discouraging my comrades, I ceased
to mention it, but others on board our little craft were as
observant -as I, and soon my acquaintance, Ben, said in
a deep and feeling voice, " Mates, I guess it's all up
with them, their barkers don't speak any more," and a
general assent to this mournful anticipation was mur-
mured by all.

Now we had got over the bar our progress was much

CONCLUSION. 299

more rapid. The sea which would have been abeam if
we had shaped our course directly for the object of our
journey, was too angry to be trusted thus, so we had to
keep our bow seaward, edging to the southward as
chance favoured us. Half an hour of this we knew
must bring us nearly to our destination. Dark as the
night was we could not go wrong, for astern gleamed
through the black darkness the lighthouse over the
pier. Forward pitched our boat into the gloom, when
the wild white water, crushed into snow-like foam from
its contact with the rocks, broke on our view. Worse
than the sea on the bar it could not be, still it was
terrible to view, and in its midst lay a brig careened
over on her beam-ends, the foremast gone at the top,
the mainmast by the board. Sea after sea made a
clean breach over her, the broken water falling in
cataracts over her now perpendicular deck.

For human life to exist upon her decks appeared im-
possible ; so if any of her crew remained in the land of
the living, they must be below. From her build she was
evidently a foreigner, German probably, for a less power-
fully put together ship than this thorough-going people
build would never have held so long together. Lying
upon our oars, or only taking an occasional pull upon
them to keep our position, we held a consultation how
she was to be approached. At length it was decided
that the lea of her stern was the only available point.
Steering towards it a new difficulty presented itself.
The mainmast held by the shrouds occupied almost
exactly the place we wanted to reach, and to come in
contact with this spar would have been to us probable

3OO TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

destruction. After sundry efforts, however, it was cut
adrift, and soon after a chance was afforded to make fast
to the wreck, which was tightly wedged ashore forward,
while the stern projected over deep water. How the
unfortunate vessel had got into this position was obvi-
ous to those versed in seamanship. From the small
amount of canvas she could show to the gale she had
been unable to go about, and as a last expedient, the
attempt to ware her had been made, and in doing so
she had run on the reef.

It was now breaking day, and with the approach of
light the tide had changed, and the wind which had
been lately more fitful gave evidence of moderating.
Our danger was now evidently past, and all we had to
do was to hang on till an opportunity was afforded of
boarding her. At length the looked-for time came ; the
two youngest of our crew with agility sprung on board,
while the lifeboat drifted back to the end of her hawser.

Painful were the few minutes of suspense that
followed after the explorers disappeared below deck.
At length one of them appeared, and hailing us, stated
that there was only one cove and a dog on board, and
that the former had a broken arm. When can you
deprive our sailors of sympathy for the unfortunate ?
Never. Whether it be their life, education, or discipline,
I know not, but as with the soldier, there is more of the
milk of human kindness in their compositions than
exists in any other profession, thus all the sympathy
that would have been bestowed upon the distressed
crew was concentrated upon the sole survivor. " Fetch
him up, Jack, my boy," cried our gallant coxswain.

CONCLUSION.

3 OI

"Aye, aye," he responded, "but the confounded dog
won't let us get near him. Still I'll make another try,"
and off he dived below decks again. This time he was
absent longer.

At length both our men reappeared bearing in their
arms the apparently inanimate form of a man about
forty years of age, a large, curly-coated, black retriever
following at their heels. With many a skilful knot and
tie he was made fast, and with such care as would
have done credit to the most loving woman that ever
nursed invalid, he was lowered into our boat, and
gently borne to the stern sheets. Dead he might have
been, but that a sigh escaped his lips at long protracted
intervals. As he reclined bolstered up against the knees
of the coxswain again and again I looked earnestly in
his face. In it there was something that reminded me
of the past, either I had seen him before or he much
resembled one I had known. The more I looked the
more I got confirmed in my opinion ; yet for my life I
could not say where or when we had met.

But this is not to be wondered at, for had I not
travelled nearly all over the earth, and consequently
how many persons had I known ; but the more I gazed
on this face the more familiar it became, till I felt
angry with myself for not being able to recall where
and when I had seen it.

A gentleman he certainly was. None could look at
that white soft hand, those long tapering fingers, and
pink well-kept nails and doubt it. In height he must
have been almost six feet, and although strongly knit
and built, he was rather slim than otherwise. His head-

3O2 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

gear had fallen off, showing that his crown, perhaps from
hereditary predisposition, perhaps from the influence of
a foreign climate, had become bald, while a fringe of nut-
brown curls circled around and over his neck and ears.

Again and again a spasm of intense pain shot across
his face, leaving a livid tint under his eyes and over
his lips, and how could it be otherwise ? By his side
hung the broken arm, smashed half-way between
elbow and shoulder, the jagged edges of the bone
being doubtlessly frequently brought in contact by
the pitching of the boat. Possibly the pain which
the sufferer was enduring was the cause of my failing to
recognise him, for after all expression has as much to
do in enabling us to know one another as features.

When I was studying and puzzling my brains over
the unknown, the attention of all the crew was called to
the unsuccessful efforts that were being made to catch
the dog. At length his pursuers desisted from the
attempt, finding that it was hopeless ; when, hailing the
boat which had drifted back to the end of its hawser,
they enquired if they had not better remain in posses-
sion of the direlict, seeing that the weather had mode-
rated, while the life-boat returned to its station for the
double purpose of obtaining immediate assistance for
the wounded man, and of bringing additional aid to
save as much of the cargo as possible.

This proposal was agreed to at once ; each grasped
his oar, the painter was cast off, and our gallant little
craft had her head pointed for Tynemouth ; but we
were still destined to have another passenger ; the poor
dog which had kept studied watch upon all our move-

303

ments, doubtless because we had his loved masieT on
board, no sooner saw us leaving and so increasing the
distance between himself and all he cared for, than he
sprang overboard and swam after us.

This proof of the dumb creature's affection was not
unappreciated ; all, without a word of instruction, hung
upon their oars till the affectionate creature was along-
side, when I reached my hand over the gunwale, and,
taking him by the neck, lifted him on board. Crouch-
ing under the seats, he passed aft, gently approached
the figure of him he loved, for a moment gazed in the
well known face, then licked one hand and then another,
and soon after he lay alongside his master's prostrate
form, gazing with keen but kindly eye on all he looked
upon. Yes, dog as he was, man, with all his exalted
opinions of himself, does not possess one half the
disinterested, true affection of his race.

Homewards bound was but a pleasant cruise ; even
that fearful bar had lost its terrors, at least in such a
worthy sea-going craft as we were on board of; still the
billows licked our side, telling plainly what they would
like to do, but had not the power to accomplish ; and,
no longer timorous of results, we gloried in our prowess,
laughed the element to scorn that once we dreaded, yes,
trembled in the presence of.

A crowd of wives, brothers, and sisters greeted us on
the beach. We were the heroes of the moment, and
although I had done no more than my allotted share of
labour, my being a landsman, and occupying the posi-
tion of a gentleman, made our humble friends doubly
marked in the emphasis of approval towards me ; but I

304 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

had other work in hand than to listen to the laudations
of the surrounding crowd. In the stern-sheet of the
boat which had borne us through so many perils
reclined the wounded man we had rescued from the
stranded ship ; up to this moment his pain must have
been almost unendurable, for although the gale had
blown itself out, the motion on board our craft could
not but have caused him inexpressible pain.

To the hospital, to the sailor's home, and to various
institutions of a similar nature, it was proposed to take
him ; with this intention he was tenderly lifted from the
boat. Strange as it may appear, already had arisen in
my mind feelings of affection towards the unfortunate
man which I could neither express nor explain. What
mattered it to me one mouth more to feed, to take upon
myself the support of one more human being ; nothing.
My house, my home, should be his refuge, and with the
desire came the words ; everyone approved my wish,
and carrying the disabled form upon their shoulders,
gently and feelingly they bore him to my residence.

Nor was he alone, the dog faithful to the last followed
silently behind.

As might have been expected, my housekeeper
demurred to my arrangements, but I was not in a tem-
per to brook contradiction, and for once in my life, I
asserted my position of master, and she, aware of my
determination, retired grumbling, although I believe un-
conquered. A bed was speedily prepared ; with my
assistance his wet clothes were removed, and administer-
ing the only restorative I possessed, namely brandy and
water, I had the satisfaction of seeing my guest fall into

305

a troubled though beneficial sleep. Long ere
I sent for a medical man, who as luck would have it,
was at home, and who consequently was with me before
the patient awoke. On no account would he permit
him to be disturbed ; slowly and silently the hours
passed, when a few heavy sighs indicated that the
sleeper was again returning to consciousness.

Expecting him to awake from his previous lethargic
state, I leant over the bed ; gradually his blue eyes
opened, and gazing fixedly on my face, he muttered the
word " Jack." In an instant the previously unknown
was recognised, it was Philip Upton, and if before I had
felt satisfaction at having assisted in saving a human
life, I felt doubly repaid when I learned that I had
been instrumental in rescuing my old friend. The
work of my medical man was soon completed, with the
aid of splints and bandages the shattered limb was put
in its place, and however listless and weary, sometimes
sick of life I had previously felt, I now knew I had
something still to live for.

How strange are the workings of providence! in what
mystery are they bound up ! Can any one doubt that
there is an over-ruling power that guides all? But a
week or two ago I had looked anxiously forward to en-
tertaining my poor friend ; suddenly, unexpectedly, and
inexplicably he had disappeared without leaving a trace
that might lead to his discovery by those that sought
him.

But by the will of that Supreme Being who ruleth all,
when least expected he was again thrown among friends,
yes, not such friends as those who profess friendship to-

306 TRAVEL, WAR, AND SHIPWRECK.

day and ignore to-morrow the person to whom they
have made their protestations.

To do my housekeeper justice, however strong might
have been her objections to this introduction to my
domestic circle, no sooner did she learn that the ship-
wrecked, maimed and homeless wanderer was no other
than my dear old friend, than she entered with all a
woman's feeling into competition with myself to bestow
such attention as would make the sufferer comfortable
and hasten his recovery.

My wish is accomplished ; Philip Upton is now with
me at Heather Green. Change of air and the renewal
of old associations have done him so much good, that
he may now be considered convalescent. Looking at it
in a selfish light, the society of my old friend has had a
most beneficial effect on myself, for no longer do I feel
time hang heavily on my hands, nor am I in quite as
much fear of Mrs Wilson as formerly ; in fact that old
lady has dropped much of the drill-sergeant mannerism
that used to be so objectionable ; two recruits possibly
she deems more than she can manage.

One day Upton and I went to the river together ;
either there was electricity in the atmosphere or an
easterly wind was threatened, for the trout would not
rise. Finding fishing useless we sat down on the grassy
slopes that margined the stream to discuss our lunch.
One subject led to another, when it struck me that now
is the time to broach what for some days had been
uppermost in my mind.

CONCLUSION. 307

" Philip, what say you, let my house in future be your
home ? "

" To tell you the truth, Jack, I have thought of the
matter, and should like nothing better."

" Well, it's a bargain."

Yes."

Since then months have passed, and if the reader
could look into the old cottage, as in days long gone
by, he would see the table on the verandah, two
weather-beaten, if not aged, veterans on either side of
it, while cigars and Bordeaux have taken the place of
pipes and rum, the former being insignia of the new
school, the latter of the old ; which were the best
remains to be proved. But there is one of the dramatis
personae left out ; this should not t be, for a very worthy
member he is deemed of our household Bean, Upton's
retriever, who invariably shared himself between us,
regarding both as his mutual friends.

There is only one subject of conversation tabooed,

namely, the death of ; well, his name is forbidden

" Requiescat in pace"

A parting word ; if war should arise, if the honour of
England should be doubted, the entirety of our realms
imperilled, or our sacred shores threatened with pollu-
tion from the tread of a foreign invader, the youngsters
of the day will have a hard struggle in the race who
shall be first to offer their services in the cause of our
Country and Queen.

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