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 Accessions No. 
 
 Shelf No. 
 
TRAVKLS 
 
 IN 
 
 Asia Australia ^ Aerica 
 
 COMPRISING THE PERIOD BETWEEN 1879 AND 1887. 
 
 TTHIVSRSITY 
 
 BARON WILHKLM VON 
 
 (Saxe-Coburg-Gotha,) 
 
 F. L. S., corresponding member of the American Geographical Society, 
 etc., etc., etc. 
 
 PART I-l&r 
 
 NEW YORK: GEORGE LANDAU, 
 
 1888. 
 
ENTERED ACCORDING TO ACT OF CONGRESS, IN THE YEAR 1888, BY 
 
 BARON WILHELM VON LANDAU, 
 IN THE OFFICE OF THE LIBRARIAN OF CONGRESS, AT WASHINGTON, D. C. 
 
TO THE HONORABLE 
 
 SHARLES P. BALY, b. k.B., 
 
 President of the American Geographical Society and Ex-Chief Justice 
 of the Court of Common Pleas, of the City of New York; 
 
 Honorary member of the Imperial Geographical Society of Russia, of the 
 
 Geographical Societies of Berlin and Turin, and corresponding 
 
 member of the Royal Geographical Society of London; 
 
 Honorary member of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Medico-Legal 
 Society, and Mercantile Library Association of New York, 
 
 WITH HIGH ESTEEM AND GRATITUDE. 
 
 THE AUTHOR. 
 
 T 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 *ir*HE leading idea which has governed the prepara= 
 tion of this little work has been to precisely relate, 
 the personal experiences of the author in different parts 
 of our planet. The standpoint which he takes is 
 partially that of a tourist, at the same time offering all 
 the statistical and geographical data he possibly could 
 obtain, and he wishes to be distinctly understood that 
 in making these extensive, long lasting travels, he was 
 not led by any other motive than the mere love for 
 science, nature and art. 
 
 Though, among explorers, only one of the "(Dii 
 minor es," I found sufficient reward in the honorable 
 mention of my expeditions and the scientific apprecia= 
 lions in the reports of the <( Gesellschaft fur Erdkunde" 
 (Society for the Enrichment of the Knowledge of the 
 Earth), the Ethnologic (Periodical and the lectures of 
 (Professor (Doctor Virchow, of Berlin. 
 
 Many of the tropical and subtropical plants, etc., 
 with which I had supplied some countries in Europe 
 and Africa for acclimatization, thrive well according 
 to statements received, and promise to become a source 
 of revenue. 
 
revue 
 
 This also, adds to the pride I feel in passing 
 over a period of eight years travelling, devoted exclu= 
 sively to science. 
 
 Owing&the success of my explorations, especially 
 in the thinly populated wild islands in Oceania, to the 
 kind and generous assistance of the Governors, (Regents, 
 Residents, the (Roman Catholic Cur as and the Com= 
 mandants of the Guardia Civil, I herewith express my 
 heartfelt thanks to each and all of them. 
 
 THE AUTHOR. 
 

 T was in Autumn of 1870 when I left dear, old 
 
 Berlin, to realize the dream of my youth : to 
 visit the "mythic cradle of the human race," the 
 distant India. 
 
 Armed with everything necessary for such a 
 trip, a good constitution and a certain degree of self- 
 denial, as well as with my Doctor of Philosophy in 
 my pocket, I looked cheeringly into the future. 
 
 Munich, the Brenner, Verona and Bologna were 
 passed and Brindisi reached, when passage was 
 taken for Corfu on board a steamer. As I had stayed 
 before in Corfu, I hastened my departure from the 
 latter place to Alexandria and by rail through the 
 Delta to Cairo. I did not remain there any length 
 of time and after visiting Doctor Schweinfurth, 
 whose acquaintance I had made on former travels 
 and at whose residence I was introduced to some 
 members of the Nordenskjoeld Expedition, I sailed 
 for Suez. My stay in Egypt, as mentioned before, 
 was a very short one on this occasion and for this 
 reason and former descriptions of the country, pub 
 lished by me, I omit to say anything about it. 
 
 I boarded the steamer " Jemna" of the French 
 Messagerie national line bound for India and after 
 passing Pondichery and Madras I reached Calcutta 
 through the Hoogly, an arm of the Ganges. 
 
8 
 
 Calcutta, the capital of British-India, with 
 870,000 inhabitants, has but few remarkable curiosi 
 ties. The houses of the Europeans and of the 
 wealthy Natives, the Baboos, are spacious and ele 
 gantly furnished. Poonkhas, or ventilators, suspend 
 from the ceilings and the numerous windows of the 
 pretty high houses have awnings. Most everybody 
 here has his own servant. The mode and way of 
 living here is very luxurious. The botanical garden, 
 situated on the other side of the river Hoogly, con 
 tains a great many of ornamental flowers, among 
 which the beautiful specimens of the Burmese Am- 
 herstia nobilis and Bougainvillia spectabilis are the 
 most prominent. Doctor King, the director of the 
 botanical garden, to whom I am under great obliga 
 tions, enabled me to send a large collection of plants, 
 flowers, seeds etc. to the botanical garden of Berlin. 
 
 A peculiar spectacle surprises the stranger in 
 Calcutta, half an hour before and half an hour after 
 sunset, on the so-called Esplanade, a tract of land, 
 four miles in length and one mile in width, situated 
 on the banks of the Hoogly, when the Parsee, the 
 Hindoo, the Mahometan and the European with 
 their original vehicles, their richly liveried coachmen 
 and servants make their appearances, thus outrival 
 ing the Roman or Parisian Corsos. 
 
 An excursion from Calcutta on the North Bengal 
 Eailroad, over the Ganges, to Darjeeling, thirty miles 
 in the interior of the Himalayas brought me to the 
 highest Tea-plantation in the world, 7,000 feet above 
 
q _ 
 
 . 
 
 the level of the sea. From the top of a mountain in 
 that region, the highest mountain of the Globe 
 "Mount Everest" is visible. On my return to Cal 
 cutta, over a different road, I passed a Cinchona 
 plantation, 5,000 feet high, and started for the West, 
 by way of Patna, to Benares. 
 
 Benares, the Athens of India and the sacred city 
 of the Hindoos, is famous for the great mosque 
 " Aurung zebe," so called after the emperor, who had 
 this symbol of Islamitic faith erected on the ruins of 
 the Hindoo temples. 
 
 The astronomic observatory in Benares was 
 built in 1600 by Manasimha. Among the many 
 temples of the Hindoo, those in which the "Ape" 
 receives godly homage are the most numerous. 
 Hundreds of these little " Deities " are found in the 
 groves and orchards and are fed by their "Wor 
 shippers " with all kind of delicacies. 
 
 Benares has about 50,000 Idols, exhibited for 
 public worshipping in niches, cases etc. The temples 
 where the bulls are adored, swarm with filth, especi 
 ally the niches in which other lifeless Gods are 
 enshrined. Their faces and bodies are literally 
 dripping from oily substances, remnants of offer 
 ings , thus creating an intolerable odor. From the 
 ceilings, diminutive bells dangle down and are fre 
 quently rung, to remind the negligent "Deities" of 
 their obligations. 
 
 There are many antiquities in Benares. 
 
- 10 
 
 The Ghauts, a prolongation of the stony steps, 
 descending from the rocks, form a platform and are 
 constantly thronged with people, flocking down to 
 the river to purify themselves with its holy water or 
 to perform some other work. On the extreme end 
 are beautiful Stone-Kiosks, also harbors of some 
 abominable "Deities." 
 
 On the 4th of June 1857 a great many Europeans 
 were murdered in this city by the rebellious natives. 
 
 From Benares I traveled to Lucknow the old 
 capital of the former kingdom Oudh with famous 
 forests in the neighborhood. 
 
 Several edifices, built by a Frenchman, create 
 sensation by their peculiar style. 
 
 In the environs of Lucknow is Cawnpore, where, 
 on the very day on which the Mogul Empire was 
 proclaimed, viz.: the 12th of February 1857, the 
 horrible massacre of Europeans by Nana-Sahib and 
 his Sepoys was perpetrated. A second slaughter, 
 not less brutal than the first, took place on the 16th 
 of July of the same year. On the following day the 
 distressed received succour from General Havelock. 
 After a brief stay in Cawnpore, I started for Saha- 
 rampore, from where another collection of seeds, 
 etc., was dispatched to Europe. Here also, the 
 Director of the botanical garden the latter pro 
 perly a place for the cultivation of domestic plants- 
 Doctor Dutton, favored me with his kindness. The 
 Siwalik hills, where tertiary fossiles are excavated, 
 were duly explored by me. 
 
Between these geologically famous liills and the 
 real Highmountains in Dehra-Dhoon, the culture of 
 silk-worms is carried on and tea-plantations fordid. 
 
 From the Sanitarium Massory, where I received 
 the membership of the Himalaya Club, the Snow- 
 mountains present a magnificent view. Landowr, 
 also a sanitarium for soldiers, enjoys the neighbor 
 hood of Ale-breweries. The way leads now to Agra, 
 one of the former residences of the Mogul Emperors, 
 about hundred miles distant from Delhi. In Agra is 
 the most splendid mausoleum in the world, the 
 celebrated "Taj-Mahal." It is impossible to give a 
 true description of the Taj-Mahal with its har 
 monious proportions, its Mosaic work, the immacul 
 ate snow-white marble etc. According to accounts 
 in Agra, Taj- Mahal was founded in 1631 under the 
 reign of the Mogul Emperor Shah-Jehan and devoted 
 to the memory of his spouse Moontaj-i-Mahal. Ta- 
 vernier relates that 20,000 people had worked for 
 twenty successive years on the completion of this 
 wonderful mausoleum. 
 
 The Moti-Musjed or Pearl-mosque deserves to 
 be mentioned as also the Jumna-mosque. The latter, 
 though not so nice as the Pearl-mosque, towers 
 above all other Mosques in Agra, its site being the 
 loftiest. 
 
 The sepulchral monuments of Elmadaod-Doulah 
 and Akbar are magnificent relics of oriental archi 
 tecture. 
 
 In the vicinity of Agra is the native state Sindhee 
 
12 
 
 with an English cantonment. Splendid temples and 
 ruins of such, of an extinct Hindoo religion, the so- 
 called Jaynes, are abundant. The soil contains plenty 
 of iron-ore. 
 
 Among all the attractions in India, the architec 
 tonic monuments of the past, cause the travellers 
 admiration and astonishment, but above all, the 
 relics of the glory and power of the Mogul Emperors. 
 It was in Delhi of historic fame where I had 
 occasion to admire the well preserved remains of 
 architectonic monuments of the great Mogul Em 
 perors. 
 
 On the llth of May, 1857, during an insurrection 
 of the Natives, a terrible massacre of Europeans 
 took place in Delhi. The English attacked the in 
 surgents on the 14th of September 1857, and the city 
 was taken by the former on the 20th of the same 
 month. The day following, the last of the Mogul 
 Sovereigns, Surazoo-deen, was captured and several 
 of his grandchildren and princes executed. 
 
 Of all the curiosities in Delhi, the Dewani- 
 Khass or Presence chamber (Audience hall) excites 
 the greatest attention of the visitor. This edifice 
 too, like the incomparable Taj-Mahal, owes its origin 
 to the above mentioned emperor Shah-Jehan. 
 
 The imperial palace, turned into ruins by the 
 English, was considered the finest residence of any 
 "Despot" in the East. 
 
 The Dewani-Khass is an arched pavilion, rests on 
 low, solid pillars and measures 150 feet in length, and 
 
13 
 
 50 feet in width. The material is of the finest white 
 marble. The sculpture, engraving and ornamenting 
 of the pillars and walls is almost inimitable. Flowers, 
 blossoms, leaves, fruits and Arabesques in Mosaic, 
 composed of precious gems, appear to the visitor as 
 if alive or painted on canvas. In the Arabic-written 
 characters, on different places of the hall, resembling 
 Arabesques, citations from the Koran are found, 
 among others, the lines, glorified by Moore in " Lalla 
 Bookh": 
 
 "If in reality, there is an Elysium on earth, 
 It is this, it is this." 
 
 Below the central arch of the pavilion is a low 
 marble tribune, on which stood the famous Peacock 
 throne. Bernier, who has seen the throne, gives the 
 following description of it: "The throne consisted 
 of two massive golden peacocks, whose plumages were 
 composed of the most precious stones. The seat 
 was inlaid with diamonds and supported by six solid 
 golden legs, also sumptiously covered with diamonds 
 and rubies. Six wide, massive silver steps, likewise 
 containing different jewels, led to the throne, the 
 cost of which, according to the above named traveller, 
 was from 20 to 30 Millions of Pounds Sterling." 
 
 The throne was stolen by the Persian conqueror 
 Nadir-Shah, and the precious diamond "Koh-i-noor," 
 worn by the Mogul Emperor, wandered to England, 
 where it now ranks highest among the crown jewels 
 of Queen Yictoria. 
 
 Of great attraction also is the Private Imperial 
 
14 
 
 Mosque within the fortified palace, built of white 
 marble. The Jumna Mosque, situated in a different 
 part of the city, is one of the finest of its kind and 
 from the Minarets the celebrated lonely "Kutub 
 Minar " column, undoubtedly the loftiest structure in 
 the world, is visible. The environs of Delhi, to the 
 extent of 15 miles along the banks of the Jumna, are 
 literally covered with fragments of tombstones, walls, 
 mosques, palaces and astronomical observatories. 
 These are remains of the Delhi/4 of the past, for 
 the first Delhi^ was already built 2,000 years ago. 
 
 Here, as in some other parts of India, the boil- 
 disease (covering the whole body with protuberances) 
 appears during the hot season and gets many victims. 
 
 From here I started for Simla, by way of Um- 
 balla, a very tedious and troublesome voyage. One 
 is dragged with difficulty in the clumsy vehicle, the 
 so-called "Garre," over the plains and through un- 
 bridged rivers. The construction of these Garres is 
 such, that they have to serve as sleeping compart 
 ments, since travelling in the night time becomes here 
 a necessity, shelters nowhere to be found. Naturally 
 enough, there is but little comfort in them. 
 
 Here it was, where the three brothers, Herman, 
 Adolf and Robert Schlagintweit met in the month of 
 May 1856, to complete their equipment for the in 
 tended journey to Cashmere. They arrived in Bom 
 bay towards the end of 1854, and first crossed the 
 "Deccan" to Madras over different roads. They 
 separated in Madras in the following spring. Adolf 
 
15 
 
 and Eobert travelled to tlie remote Northwest of 
 India and spent their time with examinations of the 
 passes, glaciers, mountains, etc. They advanced a& 
 far as Ladak and attempted to climb to the summit 
 of the Ibi-Gamin, one of the steepest peaks. Though 
 the attempt was fruitless, they nevertheless reached 
 the extraordinary height of 22,000 feet, a height 
 which, up to that period of time had not been reached 
 by any mortal man. 
 
 During that time Herman made extensive travels 
 in Sikkim and Assam, and through the whole region 
 between Brahmapootra and Burmah, in the tropic 
 low-lands as well as in the unexplored mountainous 
 district. 
 
 After the already related meeting of the brothers 
 in Simla, they visited Iscardo, made repeated excur 
 sions in the wild region between the Upper-Indus 
 and the table-land of Pamir, and afterwards explored 
 the southeasterly continuation of the great Karako- 
 ram chain of mountains in Little-Tibet, thereby 
 fixing the altitude of the Dapsang to 28,278 feet. 
 
 They were the first Europeans who, after passing 
 the Karakoram over a pass, 19,000 feet above the 
 level of the sea, had seen and crossed the Kiin-liin. 
 Unexpected circumstances forced the brothers to 
 return to India, and Herman and Kobert embarked 
 for Europe in the Spring of 1857, whilst Adolf was 
 determined to profit from their mutual discoveries, 
 and to explore Central Asia as far as to the Eussian 
 possessions north of Thian-Shan. Kuniors of the 
 
16 
 
 progress of the Tartaric rebellion against the Chinese 
 supremacy, had by this time reached Little Tibet, 
 and the task at which Adolf aimed seemed practicable 
 to him. Alter crossing the Kim-lun he marched to 
 wards Yarkand, but was sent back and proceeded to 
 Kashgar, presenting himself to Walle-Khan, the leader 
 of the Insurgents, who at that time was besieging the 
 Chinese forts. All that the world got to know about 
 the fate of this indefatigable traveller, was, that he 
 was murdered by the order of Walle-Khan. 
 
 The great Sanitarium in this place is about 8000 
 feet above the sea. 
 
 The Viceroy of India, as well as the Commander- 
 in-chief, and the Lieutenant-Governor of the Punjab 
 reside here during a period of eight months in every 
 year. The seat of the government (wandering with 
 the Viceroy) is also here during the summer. 
 
 My stay in Simla was a pretty long one, enjoying 
 the acquaintance of the Earl of Lytton, and of his 
 successor, the Marquis of Ripon. I made frequent ex 
 cursions to Tibet as far as to the Chinese borders, but 
 was not permitted to step over the boundaries. On 
 that journey, at the Mission Station Kothgur, I met 
 a missionary from Berlin, a Mr. Rebsch. Before this 
 last place is reached, ^"arkanda has to be passed, 
 where a splendid view of the snowmountains pre 
 sents itself. 
 
 Doctor Lucius, the present Minister of Agri 
 culture in Berlin, was here some time before my 
 arrival. 
 
17 
 
 The road leads now right through the snow- 
 mountains with their gorgeous valleys and luxuriant 
 pine- and cedar-forests up to the lofty boundaries of 
 vegetation. In the former grows the eatable pine. 
 The alpine vegetation is not so abundant as in the 
 Swiss alps, but the cultivation of the vine is very 
 productive on account of the scarcety of rain. 
 
 Back of Kothgur, the Sutlej, an important river 
 with canyonlike banks and peculiar windings, dis 
 charging into the Indus, was reached.. We started 
 now from Murree over the mountains for Cashmere. 
 
 The voyage lasted full fourteen days. In day 
 time travelling was seldom interrupted and the nights 
 were passed under shelter. 
 
 The river Jhelum, in the neighborhood of the 
 capital, Shrenaga, describes the most peculiar wind 
 ings imaginable, which latter are imitated in the 
 patterns of the Cashmere Shawls. 
 
 Our way up hill, in tents, brought us to Sona- 
 mag, which is very high situated. After we had left 
 the last named place, a Christian church was con 
 sumed by fire and we were charged with the deed, 
 though Mahometans had caused it. 
 
 The established church in Cashmere is "Ma- 
 hometanism," that of the court "Hindoo." 
 
 The principal passage to Central Asia and 
 Turkestan leads over Sonamag. This same course 
 was taken by Schlagintweit and the English Embassy. 
 
 There is a large stock of game on the table-land 
 of Cashmere, and hunting is very frequent. The in- 
 
18 
 
 terior of Cashmere is only during the summer in 
 habited, at which time the Maharajah and his court 
 reside here. During the winter the court resides in 
 Sommoo. 
 
 On my return to India over the old disused high 
 way, laid out by the Mogul Emperors, I found now 
 and then ruins of seraglios and caravanseries, which 
 afforded night-shelters. This road is in a very bad 
 condition and therefore not so much in use as the 
 Murree road. 
 
 The manufacturing of shawls, in former times, 
 carried on on a large scale, is now, since they are out 
 of fashion, almost extinct, and only Shrenaga pro 
 duces some. Oxen are the beasts of burden in Cash 
 mere, ancj horses and donkeys are used for riding. 
 The killing of cattle and fishes is strictly prohi 
 bited, because they are worshipped. 
 
 A short distance from Shrenaga, some large 
 lakes, palaces in ruins, formerly summer seats of the 
 Mogul sovereigns, and gardens with beautiful cas 
 cades, are to be found. The vegetation here, with 
 Italian and other poplar trees, bordering the lakes 
 and adorning the streets, is almost northerly and 
 puts one in mind of home, especially when arrived 
 from India. 
 
 Cotton and Indian corn, the former with yellow 
 blossoms and sesam, from which the sesam oil is ob 
 tained, are raised to a considerable extent. During 
 my sojourn there, a Belgian pressman was summoned 
 to Cashmere to introduce the cultivation of fruits, 
 
19 
 
 vine and other plants, and for the construction of 
 press-houses. Some species imported from France 
 and Germany throve as I was informed afterwards 
 very well. 
 
 To reach Cashmere, it was necessary to obtain 
 special permission from the Government of the Pun 
 jab in Lahore. The reason for this precaution was 
 the insufficiency of provisions after the rage of a 
 famine in that region. We found many skeletons of 
 cattle, killed by starvation, on the road from Murree 
 to Cashmere. 
 
 This journey was performed in the middle of 
 summer, the so-called rainy season, which differs 
 from the rainy season of the southern or eastern 
 part of the Himalaya. The rain in these regions, 
 with but short interruptions, lasts throughout the 
 season. Special permission for the use of the roads 
 from and to Cashmere is also required, as there are 
 only a few designated by the Government. For 
 eigners are submitted to a strict control on the part 
 of the English resident. 
 
 My sojourn extended to three months, and I 
 made frequently excursions to the Valley of Cash 
 mere, where I had splendid views of the snow moun 
 tains and to the Jhelum river. 
 
 The want of tents, or other shelters, necessitates 
 many families to live on boats ; and the river is 
 crowded with them. Hunters, coming from India, 
 either for pleasure or for the recuperation of an 
 undermined health, are often met with. Hotels are 
 
20 
 
 entirely unknown here and one has to content him 
 self with the tent or house he is put into by the 
 Maharajah. 
 
 The morals and customs of the Mahometans are 
 looser than those of the Arabians, the women for 
 instance do not veil themselves so close. The public 
 worship and instruction of the Hindoo, on the con 
 trary, inasmuch as a stranger has a chance to cast a 
 look into, is strictly regulated and profoundly moral. 
 
 Returning over the same road, I proceeded to 
 the Punjab with its capital Lahore, which, though 
 worth seeing, can not be compared with either Agra 
 or Delhi. 
 
 During my brief stay in Lahore I had the honor 
 to form the acquaintance of Professor Doctor Leitner, 
 the celebrated Orientalist, to whom science is greatly 
 indebted for the interpretation and explanation of 
 several old Indian idioms. On his first voyage from 
 India to Cashmere, Professor Leitner had to endure 
 a series of hardships and privations, whilst I enjoyed 
 the advantages of the present improved conditions. 
 It was Professor Leitner, if I remember well, who 
 proposed the establishing of a High-Shod in La 
 hore, now in an excellent state of progress. 
 
 On reaching the Punjab, we enter the sphere of 
 a nation which occupies a great part of northwestern 
 India, and who are neither Mahometans nor Hindoo, 
 though inclining to the former, the " Sikhs," a beauti 
 ful race of men. From their midst soldiers and 
 policemen are selected. They possess magnificent 
 
21 
 
 temples. In the vicinity of Umritsar, with a luxuri 
 antly outfitted temple, especially in Loodhiana, the 
 manufacturing of imitations of genuine Cashmere 
 shawls is one of the important features. 
 
 The Punjab in the neighborhood of Lahore, is 
 rich in rivers, and in Summer, shows one of the 
 highest temperatures in the world. In the other 
 parts of India where there is frequent rain -bufuit 
 summer comes, the temperature is milder, but in the 
 Punjab and the westerly, desert-like region on which 
 the former is bordering, and where there is but little 
 rain, the temperature rises from 120 to 130 degrees. 
 
 This country is frequently visited by whirling 
 clouds of dust. At the approach of them, the in 
 habitants retire to their huts, which are covered with 
 Koosh-koosh grass, thus reducing the temperature 
 within, but when the wind abates and the heat be 
 comes unbearable, the Thermantidod has to be put 
 up. Many other arrangements such as Poonkhas or 
 fans and ventilators pulled by Kulies, etc., are in use. 
 
 Every four or five years the Viceroy of India 
 arranges the famous "Durbar," a festival of enormous 
 brilliancy, and to which the Maharajahs of the cor 
 responding districts are invited. On that occasion 
 they display an extraordinary splendor. The suite 
 of attendants with their richly ornamented liveries, 
 the elephants and camels with covers trimmed with 
 jewelry and thousand other attractions captivate the 
 senses. The Maharajah of Cashmere who was 
 present, displayed a fabulous pomp and I must 
 
22 
 
 confess that I rarely ever had such a delight of tlie 
 eyes. From Lahore I traveled by way of Umballa, 
 Saharampore with but a short stay in Delhi, to Agra 
 from where I turned aside to the confederate Kaj- 
 pootana state. The English Kesident (native govern 
 ment) whose hospitality I enjoyed, had the kindness 
 to place an elephant and domestics at my disposal 
 for the trip to Ambher, the former capital. 
 
 The gardens and palaces of this place are worth 
 seeing. Tigers used to invade the city because the 
 Hindoo never shoots them unless he is in immediate 
 danger. They are now decimated by Europeans and 
 others who frequently arrange hunting parties. 
 
 In this part of India I received a communication 
 from Doctor Schweinfurth, at that time in Egypt, to 
 send him plants, seeds, etc., for transplantation in 
 Africa where they thrive well, especially the Bamboo, 
 Doctor Dutton and others in Saharampore acom- 
 modated me kindly with the required plants, etc., 
 thus enabling me to accomplish the wish of my 
 worthy friend, whose intention it was, to experiment 
 with them on the farm of Professor Doctor Soyaux 
 on the Gaboon. 
 
 West of Jaypore is a salt lake and a very pro 
 ductive salt mine. The palaces in Jaypore are note 
 worthy as are also the dyeries in which homespun 
 materials, mostly cotton-goods, are dyed. 
 
 On the road to Ajmer numberless monkeys 
 (Baboons) rove about and are very bold because they 
 are worshipped by the natives. 
 
23 ^ 
 
 Not far from here are temples of Brahma, whilst 
 only such of Shiva and other By-Gods are found in 
 other parts. The Hindoo faith was originally " Mo 
 notheism " and is still considered as such by the 
 better class of its followers. Brahma was an in 
 visible and allmighty God, the creator of heaven and 
 earth and like the deity of the Buddhists too great 
 to be conceived by mortals. The three descendants 
 of Brahma are more personifications of his attributes 
 than separate personalities. These three, the " Tri- 
 murti" or the Hindoo-Trinity are : Brahma, the 
 creator, Vishnu, the preserver, and Shiva, the de 
 stroyer. Among the emblems of the latter is a child, 
 thus signifying that "life" is constantly deriving 
 from the "dead." 
 
 Out of the three, a multitude of inferior Gods 
 sprung up and with their descendants number thirty 
 millions of which only three millions are bad. From 
 this proportion the kindness of the ruling deity is 
 perceptible. The original faith is much degenerated 
 at present and dark superstition substituted. 
 
 In the lakes of Eajpootana both sexes of the 
 natives enjoy frequent bathing. 
 
 Travelling in the western part of the states is 
 very troublesome and can only be performed on 
 camels-back. A habitation here, forms so to say 
 an oasis, the distance from each other being so great. 
 
 Ajmer is pretty mountainous and there is great 
 abundance of wild fruits. 
 
 On my return I had again to put up at Agra, 
 
24 
 
 from where I visited the fortified place of Allahabad, 
 the seat of the British government. In this place I 
 enjoyed the most generous hospitality of the English 
 representative,Lieutenant-Grovernor Sir Henry Cooper. 
 
 The drainage in Allahabad is one of the grandest 
 in India and I was greatly disappointed that I could 
 not inspect the same on account of the cholera raging 
 there at that time. 
 
 Cholera in the eastern parts of India, appears 
 during the hot season ; the absence of the extremely 
 moist atmosphere at that time favors the disease. 
 In the west it appears in the course of the rainy 
 season, because both, the soil and air contain too 
 little moisture to promote bacillar or parasitical 
 activity. The climate of India, in general, is un 
 healthy for Europeans. The rainy season is fol 
 lowed by the cold and lasts during the months of Oc 
 tober, November, December, January and February. 
 The degrees of cold are not high ; the normal tem 
 perature in the coldest month of the year, the month 
 of January, is in Calcutta 67 ?, in Madras 77, and in 
 Bombay 78. The hot season begins towards the 
 end of February and lasts till rain commences in the 
 month of June. The different seasons in India de 
 viate greatly India extending over a latitude of over 
 2000 miles. On the west coast for instance, the rain 
 fall is stronger, in the north is the cold severer, and 
 in the south heat reigns almost throughout the 
 year. 
 
 After a brief stay in Allahabad, I boarded a train 
 
25 
 
 of the Great Peninsular Eailroad for Central India 
 and proceeded next to Jabalpore, in whose vicinity 
 are diamond mines, belonging to a Eajah, and to 
 which access is gained under great difficulties. 
 
 Jabalpore is situated on the famous Nurbuddha 
 river, on whose banks grows the sacred tree of the 
 Buddhists, the Pippal tree, Ficus religiosa. The 
 adoration of this tree bases upon the ground that, 
 under it, life was imparted to Yislmu and that Buddha 
 has rested under its shade. Many other beautiful 
 trees adorn the banks of the river, as for example the 
 Banyan-Pagode, or Indian Fig tree, Ficus indica. 
 Geologically, this territory is marvellously beautious 
 with its formation of marble. The tropic vegetation 
 develops the greatest luxuriancy, and the cultivation 
 of cotton is carried on on a very large scale up to the 
 coast (especially in Guzerattee) and almost as far as 
 Bombay. There are a great many tigers around here. 
 
 After a two days travel through beautiful forests 
 of cocoanut trees, with extraordinary specimens of 
 the cocos nucifera, I reached the "Flora" cave. 
 In the interior of the cave, situated in the high-land 
 of Deccan, are Buddhistic and Hindoo temples. 
 
 From Elora back, along the coast, over islands, 
 the train of the Great Peninsular Kailroad carried 
 me to Salsette. The climate on the coast is very un 
 healthy and all kinds of fevers, especially Malaria, 
 rage all the year. 
 
 Between the continent and Bombay, on a forma 
 tion of basalt, is the Island of "Elephanta," which 
 
26 - 
 
 place as I had already reached Bombay I visited 
 later. 
 
 The city of Bombay is divided in two parts ; in the 
 fort, situated within the old Portuguese f ortifications, 
 about one mile in length, ending on the beach of 
 the bay, surrounded by moats, the stagnated water 
 of which produces fever ; and in the new city quarter, 
 north of the Esplanade. Bombay is a very rich city, 
 the wealth mostly to be found among the Parsees. 
 
 It might not be superfluous to say a few words 
 about the followers of "Zoroaster," whose doctrine 
 as is known teaches the existence of a God and an 
 evil principle, both together ruling the Universe. 
 They settled on the Malabar coast about 800 years 
 ago, when expelled from Persia. The sun, as the 
 representative of God, fire and the sea are worshipped 
 by them. Immediately after sunrise they perform 
 their prayers. In their temples, Idols are not to be 
 found, but the sacred fire is kept burning all the 
 time. They neither burn nor bury their dead, but 
 expose them to the air on the top of a hill, where 
 they decompose or are devoured by beasts of prey. 
 They marry their children at the tender age of 4 or 
 5 years, bring them up together and unite them when 
 of maturity. 
 
 Bombay possesses many Parsee temples. The 
 "Tower of Silence" is inaccessible to other believers, 
 the sight of which dare only be seen from a distance, 
 iDut models of it are everywhere procured. The 
 Meteorological Observatory is under the direction of 
 
27 
 
 Doctor Chambers. The museum in the Yictoria 
 Garden and the hospital for sick animals deserve to 
 be mentioned. Public conveyances consist of cabs, 
 buggies and palanquins, carried by four carriers. 
 Most everybody here has his own servant. Bombay 
 is the second important commercial city in India 
 after Calcutta. 
 
 A short distance from Bombay, in the suburb 
 Mazagaun, are many serpents in the adjoining 
 djungles. Here resides the Jewish Sassoon family, 
 eminently rich. The accumulation of their wealth 
 derives from trading in opium with China. 
 
 The residence of the governor, who* was kind 
 enough to furnish me with recommendations to the 
 government of Hyderabad is near By cola. Of all 
 the Indian cities Bombay resembles most a European 
 town. Objects manufactured of sandal, rose and 
 other fragrant wood are offered for sale on every 
 way and passage, in the city. 
 
 The route from Bombay to the island of Ele- 
 phanta, seven miles in distance, is performed on a 
 small boat, Mazagaun has to be passed. The bay is 
 admirably beautiful. The small islands with their 
 magnificent vegetation and charming hills on one 
 side and the peaks of the Malabar Ghauts on the 
 other side afford an unusual sight. Malabarhill, the 
 favored place of the Europeans with their pretty 
 bungalows, makes an excellent impression upon the 
 traveller on passing it. 
 
 Elephanta is one mile in length and has a 
 
28 
 
 luxuriant growth of palm trees and tamarinds. The 
 form and situation of Elephanta are of a charming 
 beauty; the highest point is divided in two peaks, 
 one higher than the other. A short ascent leads the 
 traveller to the front of the temple between the two 
 peaks where a splendid view of Bombay and Salsette 
 presents itself. The beauty of the vegetation in the 
 foreground is beyond description. The interior of 
 the temple, entered upon very .suddenly doors not 
 existing shows a spacious chamber on each side of 
 it. The roof is supported by pillars hewn out of the 
 rock, beautifully sculptured. A single glance of the 
 visitor meets with the triple bust of the "Trimurti," 
 the Hindoo trinity, cut in stone and measuring twelve 
 feet in height. 
 
 Returning to the city, I visited the botanical 
 garden with its palm trees and the abundance of 
 tropical and other bright-colored flowers, etc., amongst 
 which the Persian roses are of an unusual brilliancy. 
 
 An excursion to the Ghauts, with their pictu 
 resque outlines, and the sanitarium in the midst of 
 extremely beautiful basalt formations, with extensive 
 sandal wood forests at the basis, is worth while 
 undertaking. 
 
 Farther on in the mountains is Mahableshwar, 
 where at times the rainfall reaches the abnormal 
 height of 250 inches. Arrived in Karli, by way of 
 Khandalla, the caves with Buddhistic temples in the 
 interior were examined. 
 
 East of Khandalla is the unsurpassable breach 
 
29 
 
 of the above mentioned Ghauts, the train passes 
 right through to Poonah. 
 
 In Poonah resides a German Savant, a celebrated 
 interpreter of the Sanscrit, whose name I am sorry 
 to say I have forgotten. On my return to Bombay, 
 I started for the south on board an English steamer, 
 and leaving Goa, the Portuguese colony sideways, 
 I landed at Baypore-Calicut, 12 to 13 degrees north 
 of the Equator, consequently a very hot place with 
 an extremely moist and tropical climate. 
 
 All Indian palm trees are here represented. 
 
 The inhabitants, because not intermixed with 
 negro blood, present a brighter and purer complexion 
 and one is inclined to call them pretty. 
 
 A day s journey from Baypore-Calicut, and not 
 distant from Cochin, exists a peculiar race of white 
 and colored Jews. 
 
 The next voyage was to the East per Madras 
 railroad, and to the foot of the Neilgherre chain of 
 mountains, with the highest point 8,500 feet above 
 the sea. The climate is very mild and coffee and 
 tea grow abundantly. The cinchona plantation in 
 Neddiwattam belongs to the government. The sani 
 tarium Oatakamund has a charming site. 
 
 In company of the director of the botanical 
 garden I rode to "Dodabetta," the highest point of 
 the Neilgherre, with an imposing view toward the 
 surrounding country and the southerly chain of 
 mountains. In the hotels of this mountainous coun 
 try, the departments of the sexes are strictly seperate. 
 
30 
 
 The governor of Madras, and the aristocracy re 
 side here during the summer. Though it was winter 
 when I was there, the weather was nevertheless very 
 mild. To the north is the native state of Mysore 
 with important coffee plantations and gold mines. 
 
 From Bangalor, in the distant east of this State 
 with an English cantonment, I proceeded to Madras 
 on the south-eastern coast by rail, and arrived there 
 in the month of January. The heat was almost un 
 bearable and sleep could only be procured under 
 the Poonkha or fan, and even then I was terribly 
 tortured by mosquitos and sand-flies. The rainy 
 season lasts from the end of October to the begin 
 ning of January. I was furnished with a very warm 
 recommendation by the late Mr. Bruhns, director of 
 the astronomical observatory in Leipzig, Germ any, 
 to Professor Pogson, on whose Astronomic-Meteoro 
 logical Observatory the scientific observations are 
 published by the Professor s daughter. A famous 
 Israelitish Philologist, Mr. Oppert, is Professor on 
 the Madras College. 
 
 The garden of acclimatization interests on ac 
 count of the various plants, and the government 
 forts are worth an inspection. Towards the end of 
 January, I embarked for Point de Galle on a steamer 
 of the British India Steamship Company. 
 
 This place was formerly an important seaport 
 until Colombo has gained the advantage over it. 
 
 On a trip to a lake in the vicinity of Point de 
 Galle I saw the Totapella, a mountain second in 
 
31 
 
 height of all the mountains in Ceylon and after a 
 short stay in Point de Galle, I travelled to Colombo 
 the capital of Ceylon. Properly, the Djungle region 
 begins here and ends where the country rises terrace- 
 like, thus developing the tropic vegetation (especially 
 on the west coast) to the utmost. Coffee, transplan 
 ted from Africa, blossoming and fruit-bearing at one 
 and the same time, is but little aromatic. There is 
 not much activity in the capital of Ceylon. Cinna 
 mon grows almost everywhere and in the Cinnamon 
 garden a place of a Djunglelike description extra 
 ordinary specimens of cinnamon bushes can be seen. 
 The cloudless sky with a burning hot sun and the 
 blinding white sand contribute greatly to render the 
 stay in Colombo disagreeable. The natives or Sin- 
 galeses in their provoking white garments do not 
 increase the attraction of the place. 
 
 After a short voyage from Colombo, Kandi is 
 reached, a famous place of pilgrimage with clean, 
 tidy houses and some commerce, part of which is in 
 the hands of a few German firms. 
 
 In a temple, in this place, the sacred tooth of 
 Buddha is preserved, thus forming the attractive 
 power of the pilgrims. To the German residents 
 in Colombo I am greatly obliged for the many 
 favors shown to me. In Paradenya, a suburb 
 of Kandi, I was introduced to Doctor Tryman, 
 the director of the botanical garden and author of a- 
 work about the cultivation of trees from which 
 Caouchouc is obtained. The botanical garden con- 
 
32 
 
 tains exceedingly fine specimens of the Giant-Bamboo 
 and Talipat palm-tree of an abnormal height, also 
 Caouchouc supplying fig-trees, Ficus Indica and 
 Eicus Tocicaria. 
 
 The richly ornamented leaves of the Talipatpalm, 
 Oorypha umbraculifera, growing to a height of over 
 a hundred feet, are spread like a parasol over the 
 heads of distinguished Singaleses by their servants. 
 
 Above Kandi are many cinchona and coffee 
 plantations belonging to private people. The coffee 
 crop did not yield, when I was there, on account of 
 the appearance of the devastating Hemileia vestatrix. 
 
 To the sanitarium " Nuwarra-Ellia," a distance 
 of 47 miles through the Hambodde pass, about 13 
 miles in extention, an altitute of 6,000 feet has to be 
 climbed, and after a descent of about two hours, the 
 road, leading to the sanitarium, is reached. Sur 
 rounded by mountains* Nuwarra-Ellia extends" very 
 romantically, valley-like, to a length of two and a 
 width of one mile. 
 
 In the neighborhood of Nuwarra-Ellia resided 
 Sir Samuel Baker, the celebrated traveller and ex 
 plorer of the Nile, whose acquaintance I had made 
 the year before at a reception, given by the Yiceroy 
 of India, in Simla. Sir Baker was a great sportsman, 
 and often had occasion to use his couteau-de-chasse 
 in encounters with beasts of prey infesting this 
 region. Leopards, wild Elephants and Woodstags, 
 etc., etc., are in abundance in these woody mountains. 
 
 After scaling the summit of the highest moun- 
 
33 
 
 tain in Ceylon, the "Petrotallagalla," 8,300 feet, I re 
 turned to the plains. 
 
 The other high mountains in Ceylon are: the 
 Totapella," 8,000, the " Kirigallapotta," 7,900, and 
 the "Adams Peak," 7,700 feet high. 
 
 In the plains of Nuwarra-Ellia as well as in the 
 plains of Moon stone, Kondopalle, Elk, Totapella, 
 Horton, Bopatalava and Augura, (all these together 
 comprising a district of about 30 miles) remains of 
 mines for the produce of precious stones are found. 
 There can be no doubt, that the produce of jewels in 
 former times has been a very lucrative one, for even 
 now, small rubies, sapphires, emeralds, turmalines 
 and chrysoberyls are found in the so-called Ruby- 
 valley, below the surface in a stratum of gravel. 
 
 The animal kingdom in Ceylon as already 
 mentioned is well represented, from the small house 
 lizard to the iguanon, about four feet long, and the 
 elephant. A peculiar species of lizards, nowhere else 
 to be found, habitates Ceylon. Small in size and 
 thorn-backed, with a long horn protruding from the 
 upper portion of the mouth, it resembles the antedi 
 luvian monstre, the " Iguanodon." 
 
 After my return to Colombo I made frequent 
 excursions, either on horseback or in some vehicle, 
 to Point-de-Galle through the splendid cocoa tree 
 forests. 
 
 I was now on the point of visiting another part 
 of "the globe, "Australia," and must confess, the very 
 
 thought of leaving India, especially Ceylon, the " Pa- 
 
 3 
 
34 
 
 radise of the East," fell heavy upon me. To get an 
 idea of the vastness of this wonderful country, one 
 must consider, that 23 distinct languages are spoken 
 in India, the written characters of all these languages 
 differing from each other as much as Roman does 
 from German. The languages spoken are : 1) The 
 Urdu, (the proper Hindostan language) the "French" 
 of India, the language of the Mahometans and of the 
 trading people, mostly spoken in Rohilcund, Doab 
 and Oudh. 2) The Hindoo, in Kajpootana, Oudh, 
 Rohilcund, Malva, Bundlecund and by the agricul 
 tural Hindoos. 3) The Bengal, in Bengal and the 
 East. 4) Pushtoo, in Peshawar and in the far West. 
 5) Sindhee, in Sinde and the Cis-Sutlej states. 6) Pun 
 jab, in the great Indus Valley. 7) Nepaulish, in 
 Nepaul. 8) Cashmerish, in Cashmere. 9) Guzerat- 
 tee, by the Parsees and in Guzeratte. 10) Assamish, 
 in Assam. 11) Burmese, in Burmah and Pegu. 
 12) Cutchee, in Cutch, 13) Bhootish, in Bootan. 
 14) The Kaeren, in Burmah and Pegu. 15) Sing 
 halese, in Ceylon. 16) The Malay, in Travencore 
 and Cochin. 17) The Tamul, from Madras to Cape 
 Comorin. 18) Canarese, in Coorg and Mysore. 
 19) Teloogoish, in Hyderabad and along the eastern 
 coast. 20) The Cole and Gond, in Berar. 21) Khas- 
 siyaish, in the northeast. 22) Ooryaish, in Orissa. 
 23) Mahrattan, in Bombay, Nagpore and Gwalior. 
 
 In addition to these 23 languages, the better 
 classes converse in the English, Pali, Sanscrit, Per 
 sian and Arabian languages and what is said about 
 
35 
 
 differences of opinions : " Quot homines, tot senten- 
 tiae" can be said about the languages in India 
 
 The Hindoos, undoubtedly the proudest nation 
 on earth, consider their country to be the primitive 
 source of all that is good and nice and from where 
 the rest of the world receives the blessings. The 
 Indian Empire is divided into British territory and 
 fendatory States, acknowledging sovereignity of Great 
 Britain. British-India is the richest and most pop 
 ulous dependency of the English crown. Area, 
 1,383,504 square miles. Population, 253,906,449. 
 
 The Government is entrusted to the Secretary 
 of State for India. He is aided by a council of 15 
 members. The executive authority is vested in the 
 Governor-General, appointed by the British crown 
 and a council of 7 members. The salary of the 
 Governor-General amounts to 25,000 pounds sterling 
 per year. 
 
 The population is dense. The density varies 
 from 441 per square mile to 43, average for all India 
 being 184. Agriculture is backward. The means of 
 transportation poor, but improving. Eight famines 
 have visited India and decimated the population of 
 various provinces. 
 
 The soil is productive, rice, corn, millet, barley 
 and wheat are growing ; cotton, indigo, opium and 
 sugar-cane are largely exported. Education is im 
 proving. The European and Native army numbers 
 190,476 men. The Native States have an army of 
 349,835 men. 
 
36 
 
 The island Ceylon, situated in the Indian Ocean, 
 south-east of India, has an area of 25,364 square miles, 
 is 260 miles in length and has an average breadth of 
 100 miles. The climate is much more pleasant 
 than that of southern India. The government is ad 
 ministered by a Governor with an Executive Council 
 and a Legislative Council. Minerals abound and 
 precious stones are often found. The pearl-fisheries 
 of the western coast are famous. Bread fruit, cinna 
 mon, pepper, rice, cotton and tobacco are among the 
 chief products of the soil ; and coffee, tea, cinchona 
 bark, cocoanut-oil among the export. The population 
 is estimated at 2,700,000. There are only about 
 4,000 Europeans in Ceylon. I remained in Point de 
 Galle, waiting for a steamer of the Oriental and 
 Peninsular Line, and procuring passage for Austra 
 lia, I bade "India" good-bye. 
 
 The sea voyage from Point de Galle to South 
 Australia passing Cape Lewis lasted sixteen days, 
 the first landing-place being Albany, situated on the 
 south coast. The voyage was a very quiet one till we 
 reached Albany, then we had violent storms for the 
 rest of the voyage. Here resides a brother of the well- 
 known explorer of South America, Mr. Schomburgk. 
 
 Adelaide, the capital of South Australia, with 
 38,000 inhabitants, of which a great many are Ger 
 mans, is quite a lively place. 
 
 After a brief stay in Adelaide, I proceeded to 
 Melbourne, the capital of Victoria, with 290,000 in- 
 
37 
 
 " : 
 
 habitants. It is difficult to reach the port of the city 
 on account of the heads, so-called capes dividing 
 the outer from the inner harbor. Melbourne indul 
 ges in the protection of the Tariff in opposition to 
 the colonies who are free traders. 
 
 My sojourn in Melbourne during the Interna 
 tional Exposition and extending to four months, 
 was a very pleasant one. I formed many valuable 
 acquaintances and through the kindness of my wor 
 thy and learned friend, the famous botanist and 
 author of works, on the " Flora" of Australia, Baron 
 von Miiller, formerly director of the botonical garden, 
 now Governments botanist, I was enabled to send a 
 rich collection of seeds, fruits, cones etc., to the late 
 Professor Eichler, director of the botanical garden 
 and museum in Berlin. To Baron von Miiller and 
 the director of the museum of Physical Sciences and 
 the director of the botanical garden I am under deep 
 obligations for the honor conferred upon me, in 
 proposing and electing me a Fellow of the universal 
 ly renowned "Linaeus Society." 
 
 The astronomical observatory with colossal 
 telescopes director, Mr. Ellery is a very fine in 
 stitution. The botanical garden near the river Yara- 
 Yara, which latter almost touches the city is roman 
 tically situated and was completely transformed 
 since Doctor Gilford is the director. 
 
 The goldmint is very important. Of the secre* 
 tary of the Minister in Victoria I received valuable 
 scientific records and statistics. On one of my 
 
38 
 
 excursions to the interior and to the gold regions, 
 I visited Balarat with Alluvial mines, almost extin 
 guished, whilst the Quartzgold mines are in a bloom 
 ing condition. 
 
 Sandhurst, formerly called Bendigo, as well as 
 the whole gold region do not produce so much now 
 as in bygone times. 
 
 North of Balarat I visited the famous Sheep- 
 breeding establishment of Sir Samuel Wilson and 
 went from there on the Northern boundary to the 
 Murray river and the Riverina district on the other 
 side. This region is notorious for its fertility and 
 belongs to New South "Wales with the capital Sidney. 
 The climate is mild, because northerly. 
 
 On another trip to the Australian Alps, north 
 west of Melbourne, I ascended Mount "Kosciusko," 
 the highest point, 7000 feet above the level of the sea. 
 In Fernshaw, in the Australian Alps, the giant trees 
 of the Eucalyptus amygdala gigantea reach the extra 
 ordinary height of over 400 feet. 
 
 In the course of the winter I was introduced to 
 Professor von Haast, the famous geologist who re 
 sided in Christchurch, New Zealand, and to Sir 
 Henry Parks, the most important statesman in 
 Australia, whilst Graham Berry, the defender of the 
 trade protective policy ( is a deciding authority in all 
 colonial affairs. 
 
 I applied to Sir Henry Parks to effectuate a re 
 solution of the Parliament to grant the necessary 
 means for the discovery of the remains of the scien- 
 
39 
 
 tific traveller Leichhardt, arid to my great gratifica 
 tion I have met with success. 
 
 East of Melbourne is the Gipsland, famous for 
 its mild and moist climate. 
 
 I now set out for Sidney on the incompleted 
 railroad, crossing the river Murray. In Albury 
 North South Wales on the other side of the Murray 
 river, important cultivation of vine is carried on, 
 mostly by Germans. 
 
 On the road from Albury to Sidney I halted at 
 Wagga-Wagga, memorable through the Tichborne 
 trial. The construction of railroads is after the 
 European system. 
 
 The capital Sidney with about 220,000 inhabi 
 tants is beautifully situated on the Sidney-bay, the 
 latter making deep indentations, thus producing an 
 amphitheatrical view of the city. 
 
 The botanical garden is not as large as that of 
 Melbourne, but is much nicer situated and notewor 
 thy for its Araucaries. There is also a museum and 
 an observatory here. 
 
 I had the pleasure to make the acquaintance of 
 Lord Loftus, formerly English embassador to Prus 
 sia and now governor of New South Wales and of 
 the German Consul General for Australia and the 
 Fejee-Islands, Doctor Krauel. 
 
 An invitation of Mr. Godefroy, residing in the 
 Fejees , to visit him had to be respectfully declined 
 on account of an indisposition. 
 
 Doctor Bennett, the Ornithologist, who possesses 
 
40 
 
 a considerably large library, was also one of my newly 
 acquired and valuable connections. 
 
 The kindness of Doctor Moore, the above men 
 tioned director of the botanical garden in Sidney, 
 who deputed his assistant, Doctor "Weber, a German, 
 to accompany me to the Illawara district in New 
 South Wales, will never be forgotten. Here I had a 
 good opportunity to study the "Flora" of Australia, 
 especially the Palms. The coal region extends all 
 along the eastern coast of New South "Wales. 
 
 The export of coals from New-Castle, north of 
 Sidney, (which I visited) to China and Japan is very 
 large. On the other side of Sidney harbor is a tower, 
 erected by a philanthropic German, which affords 
 a lovely prospect of the city and the surroundings. 
 
 West of Sidney, in Paramatta, are beautiful 
 orange groves and cottages. A branch line of the 
 railroad carried me to the Blue Mountains, a bril 
 liant, resplendent sandstone-formation. The highest 
 summits of this mountain chain, not exceeding 3,000 
 feet, consists of basalt, and with the slope, Bathurst, 
 a coal and iron mining district is reached. 
 
 I returned to Sidney, intending to go to New 
 Zealand but was prevented from doing so on account 
 of the. detention at quarantine in Aukland the 
 nearest landing-place where every passenger com 
 ing from Sidney had to remain a period of time, 
 Variola at that time raging in Sidney. 
 
 A sea voyage of two days brought me to Bris 
 bane, the capital of Queensland, with 36,000 inhab- 
 
41 
 
 itants, situated on a river having the same name. 
 Brisbane is the seat of the colonial Parliament. 
 The botanical garden is of secondary importance* 
 Doctor Bailey, the director of the museum in Bris 
 bane, is the author of several scientific works. 
 
 The cultivation of the sugar-cane commences in 
 the environs of Brisbane, 28 to 29 southern latitude 
 and still far northerly as in all Australian colonies 
 isolated gold fields are to be found. 
 
 On the high plain, west of Brisbane, lies the city 
 Toowooniba, 1500 feet high. Warwick, in the midst 
 of extensive pastures, has famous cattle and sheep 
 breedings on the farms. 
 
 In Stanthorp on a granite formation tin is ob 
 tained from the rivers and the cultivation of fruits 
 largely pursued. 
 
 I travelled back to Brisbane and found it very 
 warm there, it was already in August, and sailed along 
 the east coast and the coral reefs, 1,100 miles in 
 length, where several stoppages were made. Steer 
 ing northward now, the course of the coast changes 
 after a few days westerly, and leads to Thursday 
 Island with important pearlfisheries, and from where 
 the weather permitting the coast of New Guinea 
 is clearly visible, and along the Gulf of Carpentaria 
 and several islands of the Sunda sea, as for instance 
 Timor, Sumbava and Bali, well-known from former 
 visitations of earthquakes. 
 
 Leaving Bali, the east coast of Java appeared in 
 sight and we were most disagreeably surprised to see 
 
42 
 
 the yellow flag hoisted a warning that the Cholera 
 was raging in Java. Batavia, the capital of Java, 
 has about 99,000 inhabitants. The European quar 
 ter is at Weltenvreden, a suburb of Batavia. Here 
 is the winterpalace of the Governor-General. 
 
 The zoological garden contains beautiful speci 
 men of Ourang-Outangs. The many military and 
 civil clubs heighten the attraction of the place. The 
 commerce in staplegoods and the trade in coffee and 
 sugar is important. 80 miles from here, at the basis 
 of the mountains is Buytenzorg. 
 
 The Governor-General s Jaacobs had the good 
 ness to furnish me with recommendations to the 
 residents in the country and to his friend, Mr. Holle, 
 the owner of large tea plantations in the interior. 
 
 Buytenzorg, in my opinion, has the most impor 
 tant botanical garden in the world. It is almost 
 impossible to give a description of the variety of 
 plants, etc., which delight the eyes of the visitor of 
 this lovely spot. Nepenthes of an unusual brilliancy 
 grow here abundantly. Here also, as somewhere else, 
 the director of the botanical garden, Doctor Treub, 
 favored me with his kindness, so much so, that the 
 iDotanical garden in Berlin again received a valuable 
 sending of fruits, plants, seeds, roots, etc., etc. 
 
 In the hospital for Berri-berri patients this 
 malady appearing in some tropical climates begin 
 ning with Oedema of the lower extremities and 
 generally ending fatally I found a great number 
 
43 
 
 of persons afflicted with this dreadful disease some 
 of them in a dying condition. 
 
 The agricultural institute is very important. 
 
 The summer palace of the Governor-General is 
 also here. 
 
 Domestic weapons are offered for sale every 
 where in this palace. 
 
 To reach Sindanglaya, 3,800 feet above the sea, 
 vehicles, drawn by ponies, had to be hired. The 
 road is in a very good condition, and leads through 
 a magnificent Flora. Every five miles the caravan 
 passes through a so-called Tal (an old post station), 
 and rests for a while. The latter part of this journey 
 is performed over a mountain pass of the Ghedde 
 mountains. 
 
 The valley of Sindanglaya is pretty well settled 
 and cultivated, the climate of which is very healthy, 
 and affords protection against all kinds of fevers. 
 
 The cultivation of rice like almost everywhere 
 in Java is carried on in a large style, drainage 
 universally. 
 
 My next aim was "Wandong, the capital of 
 Preanger, 2,500 feet above the level of the sea. 
 
 Wandong is the seat of the Eesident and the 
 Regent, and is surrounded by mountains. The 
 Regents in Java are former land proprietors and 
 Mahometan princes. Their duties consist in settling 
 disputes amongst the Natives (Mahometans) and in 
 procuring shelter for travellers* 
 
 The morals of the Natives in this country are 
 
44: 
 
 not as strict as those of their co-religionists in India 
 or elsewhere. They indulge in wine and entertain 
 an almost amicable relationship with Europeans. 
 
 The Eesident van Yloeten, to whose family I 
 had already been introduced in Batavia, received me 
 most cordially, and I shall never forget his kindness. 
 
 A visit to the cinchona plantation, 5,000 feet 
 above the sea, on a volcanic formation, was worth the 
 troublesome travel. 
 
 The bark of the Calisaya Ledgeriana, here cul 
 tivated, yields from 10 to 12 per cent, quinine, whilst 
 from the Indian scarcely 3 per cent, is obtained. 
 
 Messrs. Junghuhn and Haszkarl, two well-known 
 savants, authors of many valuable works on natural 
 sciences, deserve the credit to have added greatly to 
 the introduction, respectively the cultivation of 
 quinine on the Island. 
 
 The mountain Flora of Java has been minutely 
 described by Mr. Junghuhn, whose monument is 
 found at the base of the mountain on which the 
 above mentioned plantation is situated. 
 
 A rich tropic vegetation surrounds the traveller 
 until Lembong is reached, when a horse has to be 
 mounted in order to ascend to the cinchona plan- 
 tation. 
 
 The lower part of the mountain is planted with 
 tobacco. 
 
 My reception on the plantation by the Natives 
 will never be forgotten by me. They did all in their 
 power to make my stay there agreeable dancing, 
 
45 
 
 singing and performing all sorts of native juggleries, 
 going on all the time. 
 
 Returning to Sindanglaya I made preparations 
 for the intended visit to the Volcano Ghedde, 10,000 
 feet above the sea. 
 
 I found a companion in the person of the Dutch 
 Colonel Smith, and at about nine o clock in the 
 evening we started on horseback, with our guard and 
 torchlight bearers in the front and rear. 
 
 The way leads through dense forests and an 
 immensely rich tropical vegetation. 
 
 Here also, as on the ascent of the Kawa Opus 
 crater, the caTalcade rests at the different stations, 
 and at the break oi: day the open plane, underneath 
 which is the little hut where travellers make a long 
 siesta, is reached. 
 
 It is superfluous to describe this volcano, as it 
 resembles in every respect the Kawa-Opus and 
 Kawa-Eatu, the same desert-like surroundings, total 
 absence of any vegetation, or dwarf bushes here and 
 there, contrasting with the lovely verdure of the 
 lower parts of the mountain. The approach of the 
 rainy season was to be expected soon it being 
 November ; the heat was almost unbearable, not less 
 than 100 in the shade, and I*was, therefore, anxious 
 to leave the Island and take passage in Batavia for 
 Singapore. 
 
 A peculiarity on the Island of Java is the law 
 which prohibits the hoisting of any other flag than 
 the Netherland. 
 
46 
 
 In the eastern part of the Island the Japanese 
 language is spoken ; in the west the Sundanese, and 
 on the coast Malayan, whilst French and Dutch are 
 in general use, especially by commercial people. 
 
 Agriculture, formerly feudalistic, is progressing 
 favorably now, and has been ever since that system 
 was abandoned, and the population is becoming 
 somewhat prosperous. 
 
 The most important colony of the Netherland 
 Indies is Java, which politically includes the neigh 
 boring Island of Madura. The total area, 50,848 
 square miles. Population, 20,259,000. 
 
 Java is governed under what ia termed the 
 Culture system, which was established in 1832. 
 
 By far the larger part of the commerce of Java 
 is with the Netherlands. 
 
 The principal exports are sugar, coffee, rice, 
 indigo and tobacco. 
 
 I left Batavia in the first part of the month of 
 November on a Dutch steamer carrying troops for 
 Acheen, one of the two capitals of the Island of 
 Sumatra, and intended to proceed to Singapore. 
 
 The voyage was not very pleasant for me. 
 
 We had not reached the Island of Rhio, when, 
 to my great horror, Asiatic cholera was raging among 
 the soldiers on board the ship, decimating them and 
 leaving us in constant fear to be also subjected to this 
 terrible scourge. 
 
 Notwithstanding the protests of the authorities 
 of Ehio, the landing of all the sick was effected 
 
47 
 
 there, and we proceeded on our journey, leaving them 
 at Khio, situated on the Equator. 
 
 I remained for some time in Singapore, whose 
 population consists mostly of Chinese, some of whom 
 are very wealthy. 
 
 Singapore is a free port. The climate, though 
 in the dreaded neighborhood of the Sunda Islands 
 and the Indian continent, is tropical and healthy. 
 
 The environs of Singapore are almost infested 
 with tigers, and one is assured here that not a single 
 day in the year passes without that at least one 
 Chinese is devoured by the brutes. 
 
 There are extensive plantations of tapioka, a 
 Maranthus, in the interior. The cultivation of betel 
 pepper and cocoanut palms is also very important, 
 and from the many odoriferous grasses and weeds 
 essential oils are extracted, especially from the 
 lemon grass. 
 
 By the kindness of the English Governor, Sir 
 Frederic Weld, residing here, who gave me a very 
 cordial reception, I was introduced to the Resident 
 of Perak, and was invited by the latter to visit him. 
 
 A special invitation of the Maharajah of Johore,. 
 whose magnificent palace is situated in the extreme 
 south of the Malayan peninsula, to be his guest, was 
 heartily welcomed. After a three days stay there, 
 he requested his nephew to accompany me to the 
 Gambir and Pepper plantations, in the interior ; and 
 to the Indigo, Yam and Sago plantations in the 
 southwesterly part of the State. 
 
In order to reach these latter, the so-called 
 straits a waterway have to be crossed, and for 
 that purpose the Maharajah had a small steamer, 
 used only by himself, in readiness for us. 
 
 The great kindness- and generosity of the 
 Maharajah enabled me to study the country pro 
 foundly. 
 
 On this journey I found remnants of an aban 
 doned nutmeg cultivation. 
 
 Livery and coachmen in this part of the country 
 recruit themselves from India, whilst the rest of the 
 serving class consists of Malayans. 
 
 The language is Malaye, the religion Mahometan 
 or Hindoo. 
 
 On an excursion to the Island of Penang, 4 north 
 between Sumatra and the Malayan Peninsula, on 
 which way Malacca has to be passed, I had the 
 honor to be the guest of Lieutenant-Governor Anson. 
 
 The city of Penang is romantically situated ; the 
 population mostly Chinese. 
 
 On board a steamer belonging to the Govern 
 ment, and generously put at my disposal, I proceeded 
 to Perak to visit the Eesident, and traveled from 
 there to the tin-mining region, worked by Chinamen. 
 
 Many coffee plantations are found in this 
 mountainous country, and to visit the Government s 
 plantation I had to ride on the back of an elephant. 
 The cultivation of Durian, a fruit, tasting like cheese, 
 and which reaches the size of a child s head, is car 
 ried on here. 
 
49 
 
 At the request of the German Consul-General, 
 Mr. Bieber, to study the cultivation of sugar cane in 
 the Province of Wellesley and elsewhere, and to pro 
 cure all possible statistics regarding the same, I 
 started after my return to Penang for Wellesley. 
 
 This country is very low, on a level with the sea. 
 I found all plantations, etc., alike. There are a great 
 many canals, serving to drain the country and to 
 ship the cane, sugar, etc. I also went to Siam, the 
 neighboring state of Wellesley, and gathered all 
 profitable knowledge about the sugar cane cultiva 
 tion and the manufacturing of sugar, and after com 
 municating the same to the Consul, I returned to 
 Singapore. 
 
 The Islands of Singapore and Penang, and the 
 territories of Malacca and the Province of Wellesley 
 constitute the Straits Settlements of Great Britain, 
 which, politically, with six provinces in Siam and a 
 number of small Malay states, either tributary to, or 
 in treaty with the above powers, belong to the 
 Asiatic peninsula, Malay, the southernmost point of 
 the Continent. 
 
 The area of Malay is about 70,000 square miles, 
 and the estimated population 650,000. Of the 
 interior of this country there is less known than of 
 any other point in Asia. The surface is very uneven, 
 the climate moist and hot, the temperature on the 
 Makran coast and in the Persian Gulf is 110 and at 
 times 125. 
 
 4 
 
50 
 
 Out of 365 days, 190 are rainy, the rainfall from 
 100 to 130 inches. 
 
 The straits settlements have an area of 1,445 
 square miles and 423,384 population. 
 
 From Singapore to Hong-Kong the sea voyage 
 lasted eight days and was a very unpleasant one, as 
 we had to suffer from very vehement northeast 
 Monsoons. 
 
 Hong-Kong is a colony of Great Britain and 
 was formerly a part of China. It consists of the 
 Islands of Hong-Kong, ceded to Great Britain in 
 1881, and the opposite Peninsula of Kow-loon, ceded 
 to England in 1861. The government is administered 
 by a Governor, aided by an Executive Council. 
 There is also a Legislative Council. The total 
 population of Hong-Kong is 160,420, of whom but 
 7,900 are white persons. 
 
 Hong-Kong forms the centre of trade for many 
 different kinds of goods. Its commerce is virtually 
 a part of that of China, and is chiefly carried on with 
 the United States, Germany and Great Britain. 
 
 The tea and silk trade of China is largely in the 
 hands of Hong-Kong firms. 
 
 The country is but little cultivated and crossed 
 by a sinister mountain range. Most all the vege 
 tables are shipped from Macao to this country. 
 
 A very bad fever, called the Hong-Kong fever, 
 a combination of cholera, yellow and typhoid fever, 
 is raging here, but is diminishing now on account of 
 the sanitary precautions. 
 
51 
 
 The principal place is Victoria, situated in the 
 north of the Chinese coast. 
 
 South of the city, on a high mountain, are the 
 fortifications, separating the city from the sea. 
 
 The commercial part of the city is close to the 
 port, the other, in a terrace-like elevation, extends 
 to the mountain south of Victoria. 
 
 There are many Portuguese here intermarrying 
 with the Chinese populace. 
 
 At the time of my stay in Hong-Kong, Doctor 
 von Moellendorf, the well-known zoologist, was the 
 representative of the German Empire there. 
 
 Here also it was, where I received the honor 
 able commission from Professor Bastian and Doctor 
 Jagor, of Berlin, Prussia, to extend my travels to the 
 little explored Philippines for the purpose of ethno 
 graphic studies and the collection of anthropological 
 and ethnological objects, thus to enrich science. 
 
 I will show later, how I managed to meet the 
 gratification of these two " Hommes celebres " and 
 the famous pathologist, Professor Doctor Virchow> 
 in Berlin. 
 
 I made frequent excursions on steamers all of 
 which were well armed, to stand an attack of the 
 pirates sailing through the bay and along the Pearl 
 river. From the deck of the steamer, when on the 
 river, the most prominent Pagodes of Canton are 
 visible. 
 
 On one of these extravaganzas, I visited Canton, 
 and after inspecting the open vaults with their 
 
52 
 
 costly sarcophagos and admiring the gorgeously 
 ornamented Pagodes and the pretty Jade works 
 manufactured here, I left Canton, not without having 
 seen the "Public Execution Grounds," and returned 
 to Hong-Kong to make arrangements for the pro 
 bably long lasting tour to the Philippine Islands. 
 
 Having succeeded in procuring some indispens 
 able vademecums for that voyage, I hastened my 
 departure from Hong-Kong, and landed first in Macao, 
 a Portuguese possession on the Chinese boundary. 
 
 Macao is a beautifully situated city, the bay one 
 of the finest. 
 
 Partially surrounded by verdant hills, with 
 lovely flower gardens and villas in the centres, the 
 city makes a favorable impression on the stranger. 
 Were it not for the almost uninterrupted tolling of 
 the many church and convent bells, which is often 
 deafening, the sojourn in Macao would be very 
 agreeable. 
 
 The population is very mixed, and one is sur 
 prised to find so many idlers in the streets and 
 squares. 
 
 Portuguese, Chinamen and Negroes, are met 
 with at every step; also, Priests, Patres, Fratres 
 and Nuns. 
 
 Women, most of whom are of a dark color, dress 
 in the Portuguese style, with the indispensable 
 Manto and the high colored cloth wound around the 
 head. 
 
 The gambling dens of Macao are of world-fame. 
 
53 
 
 From here it takes three days for Manila, the 
 capital of Luzon, one of the Philippine Islands. 
 
 A small boat with four or six rowers brings the 
 traveller to the city, only to be subjected to great 
 troubles by the custom officers (Duana). Manila 
 has a botanical garden, small, but exceedingly 
 pretty. 
 
 Here I had the great honor to form the acquaint 
 ance of Captain-General Primo di Kivera, the famous 
 botanist Yidal, the Jesuit, Padre Faura, whose 
 scientific works on the Chinese Tai-Fun are well- 
 known, the German Consul-General Kemperman and 
 the chemist Grupe, all of which were instrumental in 
 my successful explorations. 
 
 Padre Faura requested me to visit the district 
 of Dupax, where, especially in the last twelve 
 months, frequent earthquakes occurred. I gratified 
 the wish of that gentleman as will be seen hereafter. 
 
 Of the population of Manila, Indians of the. 
 Malayan race are in plurality. They are called 
 Indianos. The rest of the inhabitants consists of 
 Negritos, Mestizos and Europeans. 
 
 The Mestizos are a beautiful set of men, and 
 most all of them are in good circumstances. The 
 Singleys, cross-breeds of Chinese and Indianos, are 
 also well to do. Population of Manila, 160,000. 
 
 Though not a professional Ethnologist my 
 favorite studies were always Natural Sciences I 
 accepted the honorable commission of the celebrated, 
 German Savants, to explore the north of Luzon, the 
 
54 
 
 largest island of the Philippines, with great joy and 
 a pride, impossible to describe. 
 
 The science of Ethnography up to that time 
 was a " terra incognita " to me, and yet I was full of 
 hopes to meet with success. 
 
 Of all the distant islands and groups lying just 
 off the coast of southeastern Asia, in Malaysia, none 
 had been less explored by scientific travellers than 
 the Philippines; whether from their geographical 
 situation in that remote corner of the world or from 
 the hardships and exposures to which one is sub 
 jected in the uncultivated and wild interior, is a 
 mere conjecture. 
 
 Of the few visitors of scientific-literary fame, 
 who explored part of the Philippines ethnolgically 
 or for the purpose of natural sciences, the following 
 gentlemen have to be mentioned : Professor Carl 
 Semper in Wuerzburg, von Drasche, Doctor Jagor 
 and Meyer, all Germans. 
 
 The explorations which Professor Semper made 
 amongst the Negritos, are undoubtedly the most 
 important. Doctor Jagor s work, in which the 
 learned gentleman describes the Philippines, has 
 been translated by my worthy friend, the botanist 
 Vidal in Manila, into Spanish. 
 
 I found a companion for the probable weary- 
 some tour to the north, in the person of the Literary, 
 Mr. Au, a German, and preparing ourselves for this 
 extensive journey, we intended to start from a certain 
 point, in different directions and meet again, but had 
 
55 
 
 to abandon this plan on account of the unsafety in 
 this country. 
 
 It would fill pages to specify all the articles 
 which we bought for the trip, suffice to say, the 
 apparatus for photographs, cooking utensils, tent, 
 arms and provisions, were a great burden to us. 
 
 Before starting from Manila, we visited the 
 Lagunas in the vicinity, the Botocan Cascades and 
 the Volcano Tal. 
 
 On the morning of the 20th of March, the little 
 expedition left Manila in the best of humor, and 
 crossed the northeasterly point of the bay to Bulacan 
 and thence through well cultivated land and Quingo, 
 Balinag, San Miguel de Mayum to San Isidro, where 
 we were hospitably received by the Commander of 
 the Guardia Civil, Mr. Scheidnagel, having been 
 recommended by Mr. Yidal. 
 
 Mr. Scheidnagel takes a great interest in natural 
 sciences, and is the author of a work on the Phil 
 ippines and on Benguet in special, which latter he 
 describes in a separate little book. 
 
 In the latest German ethnographical works the 
 name of Scheidnagel is honorably mentioned, and 
 his work recommended. 
 
 For our scientific purposes, his letters of recom 
 mendation to the Governors of the provinces of 
 Nueva Yiscaya and Principe, and to his subordinate 
 Chiefs of the GuarJia Civil were of incalculable 
 advantage and gave us the right to demand a military 
 escort in case of necessity. 
 
56 
 
 Finding nothing of interest in this and tKe 
 middle part of Nueva Ecija, we proceeded to the 
 north, passing Calavetuan, Talaveras, San Jose and 
 Punkan. 
 
 We remained several days in Caraglan, in whose 
 neighborhood Kancherias of a wild tribe, the Ibilaos 
 or Ilongotes, exist. 
 
 The Franciscan Monk in Caraglan possessing a 
 great knowledge of the country and the people 
 inhabiting the same, participated in our undertaking, 
 and in company with the sergeant of the Guardia 
 Civil stationed there, conducted us to the distant 
 Eancheria of the Ibilaos, giving his best advises as 
 how to procure ethnographic objects. 
 
 Of the many photographs which we had made 
 in this Eancheria of the wild tribe, only one was suc 
 cessfully obtained, the high temperature of the water 
 and its limy contents damaged them considerably. 
 
 Thanks to the indefatigable Frater, who also 
 acts as a spiritual functionary, we succeeded in 
 procuring great quantities of ethnographic objects, 
 such as arms, ornaments and articles for domestic 
 use. 
 
 All these objects were received by us in exchange 
 for clothes, jewelry, etc. After leaving Caraglan we 
 crossed, north of the latter, the Carabalho mountains, 
 which divide the two provinces of Nueva Ecija and, 
 Nueva Yiscaya. 
 
 On both sides of the mountains live the above 
 mentioned Ibilaos or Ilongotes. 
 
57 
 
 From the Carabalho Sur (southern Carabalho) 
 on the east and southeast to Cassiguran and Buler, 
 and in the south, extending to Caraglan, San Jose,, 
 etc., Ibilaos Rancherias are scattered everywhere. 
 
 The Carabalho Sur divides the middle of north 
 ern Luzon and inclines in the western and eastern 
 part of the island toward the north and south, thus 
 forming large sized central planes in the north and 
 south. 
 
 On the other, the northern part of this Cordil- 
 lere, called Carabalho, and along the many branches, 
 as far as to the eastern part of the mountains in 
 Nueva Viscaya, Ibilaos are also living. 
 
 The Cordillere in the east of Yiscaya is but 
 little known. 
 
 Opposite Bayambong in the East is a mountain 
 4000 feet above the level of the sea, and considered 
 to be the centre of the earthquakes of late. 
 
 We could not get any information about this 
 mountain nor the dense, primitive forests or the 
 inhabitants. 
 
 The Ibilaos of other districts only knew that 
 their enemies inhabit that region. They called them 
 Ibalaos or Ilongotes like themselves and would not 
 under any consideration accompany us, so much 
 afraid were they of them. 
 
 As there are a great many Rancherias, I will 
 only mention a few of them, the names, as given by 
 the Ibilaos. In Carabalho Sur are three, high up in 
 the West, Liroc. 
 
58 
 
 Along the east coast, south of Cassiguran in the 
 adjacent mountains, are Dagan, Ampatan and many 
 unknown small ones. Near Buler (Principe) Patang 
 and Gumiat. 
 
 To the south and west of Buler live Balugas, 
 .also called Dumagas, belonging to the Negritos 
 which are spread almost over the whole north of 
 Luzon. 
 
 The inhabitants of Cassiguran (Contra Costa) 
 are called Ipogaos. 
 
 Eancheria Resale, which we visited, contains 
 from 12 to 15 houses and has tobacco, sugar cane, 
 camote and banana plantations. 
 
 In the gardens of the Ibilaos, Camote, (Con 
 volvulus batata) Gave, (Calladium esculentum, or 
 Sagittae folium of Linne) of which only the root and 
 the leaves are eaten, corn, onions, garlick and rice 
 are cultivated. 
 
 The rice crop yields but little, drainage not 
 existing. 
 
 The Ibilaos of Eosale communicate with the 
 Indians and seemed to be of an obliging and trust 
 worthy character and quite Harmless. 
 
 According to their own statement, they have a 
 kind of a religion. 
 
 Though the sun and the moon are not wor 
 shipped by them, they nevertheless consult them as 
 oracles. 
 
 The halo of the moon or the sun, the appear 
 ance of these bodies when they rise or set, whether 
 
59 
 
 stars are visible in their neighborhood, or if nebula 
 exist and how they are formed, all this influences the 
 Ibilao in all his undertakings. Deductions are 
 made from them and their natural superstition is 
 systematically nourished. 
 
 Monogamy is the only legal form among the 
 Ibilaos and fornication is punished with the death 
 of both guilty parties, it becoming the duty of the 
 nearest relatives of the incriminated to put them to 
 death. 
 
 At a very early stage of life children marry, 
 (the parents stipulating a verbal marriage contract) 
 and unite when at a mature age, then the real 
 wedding takes place. 
 
 The dowry consists of a certain number of 
 weapons, domestic utensils and pigs, and is selected, 
 naturally under the influence of her parents, by the 
 bride. 
 
 Intermarriages in large families are common, 
 but never does a brother marry his sister. 
 
 Newly born infants receive a kind of a baptism, 
 water is spilled on their heads and salt put into the 
 mouths by an old woman. 
 
 Baptisations, weddings and funerals are always 
 followed by bacchanalies, the same as with the 
 Indians. 
 
 The Ibilaos do not know any divisions of time 
 or seasons except the time of the harvest. 
 
 Nunos, their evil spirit, is very much feared by 
 
60 
 
 them, as it is lie who sends all the misfortunes, and 
 he is therefore invited to all their festivities. 
 
 Of medicinal plants they only know a few herbs 
 and barks of trees and these are only used for ex 
 ternal wounds, etc. Their weapons are the campilang, 
 a sheathknife, the lancet, arrow and shield. Ear 
 rings, necklaces and bracelets are worn on the tipper 
 part of the arm by both sexes and the waistcloths 
 are the usual ornaments of the Ibilaos. 
 
 Cowards by nature, they are very treacherous 
 and very much feared for their cruelty and brutality, 
 not only do they persecute their greatest enemies, 
 the Negritos, but are in constant war with their own 
 tribes or even kinsmen. 
 
 Armed from head to foot and using the same 
 weapons as their western neighbors of the Central 
 Cordillere, the Igorrotes, they are born warriors. 
 
 The industry of the Ibilaos is very limited and 
 is confined to the weaving or rather binding of the 
 fibre of a plant into Parneros, (sieves) and Cribas de 
 bejuce (baskets), also in the collecting of honey and 
 wax. All the mentioned articles are either sold or 
 exchanged in the Christian villages. 
 
 Hunting is one of their favorite sports. Their 
 cruelty is without limit and their bloodthirst makes 
 no distinction between friend or foe. 
 
 They murder Negritos and Indians of the neigh 
 boring villages, where and whenever they get a 
 chance to do so, but not like the Igorrotes for mere 
 
61 
 
 bravado. The motives of their killing in most in 
 stances is superstition. 
 
 The most precious thing a young man tenders 
 to his affianced is a finger, an ear or any other limb 
 of a person murdered by him. 
 
 To-day, several tribes unite to execute their 
 fiendish purposes of killing harmless persons, and 
 to morrow, perhaps, we find these same tribes as 
 bitter antagonists, murdering each other for no cause 
 but to satisfy their bloodthirsty passions. 
 
 In these bloody expeditions the young sons of the 
 Ibilaos participate, or when of too tender an age, are 
 instructed by their fathers in the art of severing the 
 head from the body of a murdered person. 
 
 At the death of a member of a family, the lat 
 ter, accompanied by friends, leave the Eancheria in 
 a procession and murder whoever comes in sight of 
 them, thus avenging the dead. 
 
 This same bloody ceremony is performed by the 
 Ibilaos after harvesting, to offer thanks to the in 
 fernal gods. 
 
 The density of the mountain-forests and the 
 almost impassable, narrow and uneven roads are the 
 cause that these barbarians can not be persecuted. 
 
 Though, as already described, well armed, they 
 also use Puas (traps) from which once entrapped 
 no one can extricate himself. 
 
 Barely are two Ibilaos seen wandering the same 
 way together, for fear that their footprints would be 
 followed and the place of concealment revealed. 
 
62 
 
 According to Professor Blumentritt, the Ibilaos 
 of Carabalho Sur live only towards the North and 
 Northwest, their habitations extending to the Cara 
 balho de Buler. 
 
 The same author describes them as of small 
 stature and weak physical strength, that Negrito- 
 blood flows through their veins and that they have 
 no agriculture. 
 
 Our observations differ greatly from the above, 
 inasmuch as we have already described, that we had 
 seen their cultivation of cereals and fruits, etc. The 
 statement about the Negritoblood can not be applied 
 exclusively to the Ibilaos, since Negritos are spread 
 all over the Philippines and not only over Northern 
 Luzon. 
 
 Buzeta and Bravo, two Spanish authors, say 
 that the Ibilaos lead miserable lifes and are deficient 
 of even the smallest luxuries. 
 
 We cannot agree with them. 
 
 All the Eancherias which we visited were not 
 in such bad conditions as described. The Negritos 
 are much poorer in their ways and modes of living. 
 In Blunientritt s essay, the Ibilaos of the neighbor 
 hood of the Contra Costa are called Ilongotes. We 
 differ also in this respect, referring to authentical 
 sources and our own researches. 
 
 From Caraglan in a distance of six miles we 
 visited a Eancheria high up in the mountains. 
 
 The expedition was accompanied by the pa 
 rochial clergyman and the sergeant of the Guardia 
 
63 
 
 Civil from Caraglan, both of which shared in the 
 tedious journey in the most amiable way. 
 
 We passed the night in a miserable hut, and 
 started early next morning, in order to accomplish 
 our intended negotiations with the Ibilaos. 
 
 Very little money was required as the Ibilaos 
 preferred the exchange of the articles desired by us 
 for the goods we had in store and a nice collection 
 of ethnographical objects was procured. 
 
 In this Rancheria we found beautiful, classical 
 figures, of imposing physical strength ; some others 
 resembled Chinese and Japanese, which circumstance 
 leads to the supposition that they had intermixed 
 with the latter when their habitations were on the 
 west coast. 
 
 We returned on the next day to Caraglan 
 fatigued from the mountain trip, and started shortly 
 afterwards for Aretao, north-northwest of Caraglan. 
 Our march led over the Carabalho, which divides the 
 north of Luzon. 
 
 From a mountain pass, about 3,500 feet above 
 the level of the sea, and very steep, we had beautiful 
 views of the mountain forest underneath and the 
 distant Contra Costa (Pacific coast) dawning in the 
 east, the sea not visible. 
 
 Our first station was made in Camerin San 
 Lazar, on this side of the Pass, at about noon, on 
 account of the inclemency of the weather. 
 
 The station, consisting of an old hut, open in. 
 many places, afforded a bad shelter. 
 
64 
 
 The rear part of this hut served as a parlor and 
 reception room for my companion and myself, whilst 
 the front part was densely crowded by our servants, 
 the Indians and the military escort on this expedition 
 from Caraglan. 
 
 A few miles distant from the hut, or blockhouse, 
 the steep ascent of the Carabalho commences. 
 
 This road affords an excellent opportunity for 
 botanists ; vegetation abounds and is exceedingly 
 rich. 
 
 In the quartz sand we found diminutive gold 
 leaves, and concluded that these mountains must 
 contain gold ore, but could not pay much attention 
 to this discovery, our time not permitting it. 
 
 The distance from Caraglan to Aretao, the first 
 pueblo on the other side of the Carabalho, is about 
 28 miles, and the expedition reached this place in 
 two days. On the first day we made only a short 
 march, the weather was too uncertain, but on the 
 second day, though we had to walk a great deal over 
 the high mountains in consequence of the terrible 
 condition of the road, we succeeded in terminating 
 our tour. 
 
 On the other side of the Carabalho is also a 
 shelter for travellers, called San Claro. This building 
 is much smaller than that of Camerin San Lazar, but 
 cleaner. 
 
 It was late in the night when we arrived at 
 Aretao. 
 
 The place is romantically situated, and was the 
 
G5 
 
 more picturesque as it showed the signs of the 
 destruction caused by the last earthquake. 
 
 The cloister also was a heap of ruins, and the 
 clergyman lived in a small Indian house. 
 
 We could not find any other place, so we put 
 up at the spacious school house of the village. 
 
 The day following our arrival, we visited the 
 few Europeans of the place, viz.: the Priest and the 
 Officer of the Gendarmeria. The former is a vener 
 able gentleman and a good scholar. 
 
 Here, in Aretao, we found ourselves in the region 
 where the earthquakes of 1881 had caused immense 
 destructions and of which the director of the meteo 
 rological observatory in Manila, Padre Faura, had 
 given us some accounts, requesting us at the same 
 time to investigate the accompanying phenomena of 
 these terrestrial revolutions. 
 
 According to the statements of the inhabitants, 
 the earthquakes occurred towards the end of the 
 summer of 1881, in Nueva Yiscaya. 
 
 This region had seldom been visited by earth 
 quakes, and for that reason caused a terrible panic 
 among the peacable populace, more so, as the con 
 cussion of the earth was so intense and not in 
 a horizontal direction, like in other parts of the 
 Philippines, but vertically, thus giving vent to the 
 fear of the outburst of a new volcano. 
 
 This fear was premature, the concussions ceased 
 at the beginning of the rainy season. 
 
66 
 
 Two and a half leagues from Aretao is Dupax 
 or Dupaz. 
 
 Here, inmidst a remarkably beautiful moun 
 tainous country we halted, intending to remain 
 several days, plenty of work awaiting us there. In 
 the vicinity of Dupaz are a great number of Ban- 
 cherias of the Ibilaos, of which four were visited by 
 us. 
 
 The cura, or catholic priest, of Dupaz, was a 
 venerable old gentleman, doing his best to give us 
 all possible comfort, and though 65 years old, de 
 veloped great energy, combined with a vivacious 
 temperament and a strong power of will and action. 
 
 Devoting himself to the duties of his high office 
 as Parochial Priest of Nueva Yiscaya, he nevertheless 
 studied natural sciences, etc. 
 
 The Indians respected the pious, old gentleman 
 reverently, and even the Gobernadorcillo (the mayor 
 of the village) trembled when the stentorian voice of 
 the Cura was heard. 
 
 All these good qualities of the Priest were of 
 great value to us. With all our efforts and offers to 
 induce the Indians to accompany us to the Ean- 
 cherias, we did not succeed until the good, old Priest 
 interfered, and all hesitation, fears and resistances on 
 the part of the Indians were instantaneously 
 banished. 
 
 We supplied them with arms, etc., and started 
 for ^the Rancherias in the mountain forests, south 
 and southwest of Dupaz. 
 
67 
 
 The precaution of arming the Indians is an 
 indispensable necessity, and encounters almost cer 
 tain, even if well armed. The Ibilaos lay in ambush, 
 and one is never safe until far away from their 
 abodes and arrows. 
 
 The first Eancheria visited was in the centre of 
 a dense forest, and the houses not in such bad con 
 ditions as described by other travellers. The tri 
 bunal or town hall, a small, clean building, served us 
 as lodging. 
 
 Like the Indians, they have a captain or chief. 
 This captain made himself very useful to us, acting 
 jointly with our interpreter as a medium between 
 the Ibilaos and us, thus enabling us to add greatly 
 to the Ibilaos dictionary, which I began in Caraglan. 
 
 Among the men as well as the women we found 
 beautiful specimens. The women are prettier than 
 the Indians down in the valley. 
 
 Beside the inhabited houses we found store 
 houses for the crop, built in Chinese style. These 
 and some of the types of the Ibilaos with their 
 jewelries, leave no doubt that there must have been 
 an intimate intercourse, commercially and sociably, 
 between them and the Chinese in former times. 
 
 Around the Eancherias are gardenlike planta 
 tions with tobacco, corn, Gabi, (Caladium esculentum) 
 sugar cane and rice. 
 
 The Ibilaos bury their dead not far from their 
 houses, near the banks of rivers. 
 
 The tribunal in the Eancheria is beautifully 
 
68 
 
 situated on the summit of a pretty steep hill, the 
 >lower part of the latter covered by the few houses. 
 
 We photographed some of the Ibilaos, in groups 
 and single, in different positions, also houses and 
 landscapes and were very successful, obtaining quite 
 a number. 
 
 Satisfied with the results of our expedition in 
 this part of the island, we left Dupaz for Bombang. 
 From the top of a hill, Bombang, with its little 
 church, beautifully situated, affords an excellent 
 view. 
 
 The monastery in this place was destroyed by 
 the earthquake, and we took shelter in the tribunal 
 temporarily erected the old tribunal, which was 
 a massive stone building, having also been demol 
 ished. 
 
 We came to the conclusion that Bombang and 
 the surrounding country was the centre of the earth 
 quakes of last year. 
 
 In the last Rancheria of the Ibilaos, not far 
 from Bombang, we found nothing of interest. 
 
 Already before Bombang is reached, the settle 
 ments of the Igorrotes are entered into. 
 
 The inhabitants of the Province of Nueva 
 Yiscaya have to be divided in three groups. The 
 largest part of this province, to the east, is inhabited 
 by the Ibilaos or Ilongotes, both names being used 
 by the wild tribes. They are the same as the Ibilaos 
 of the Carabalho and Dupaz. The Ilongotes which 
 we had seen in Carig, are like the former, carried 
 
69 
 
 the same weapons, articles, arrows, lances and shield, 
 and had also their front teeth broken out. 
 
 The Ibilaos which settled in San Nino, near 
 Bombang, used the same dialect as the Carabalho 
 Ibilaos. With the collected words and phrases we 
 were able to make ourselves understood. 
 
 Here we made excavations of skulls and bones 
 of the race described, and I was enabled to send a 
 pretty large collection of such to the famous patho 
 logical anatomist, Professor DoctorVirchow in Berlin, 
 for anthropological studies. 
 
 The number of Ibilaos can not be given, since 
 the districts along the eastern coast are totally un 
 known. 
 
 They wear the long hair in a switch around the 
 head like the Chinese. 
 
 The types of the faces vary, from the genuine, 
 broad face of the Chinaman with the protruding 
 cheekbone to the oval form of the Caucasian race. 
 
 They have no idols, but are as superstitious as 
 the Igorrotes and like these latter consult their 
 oracles, viz.: the condition and form of the liver and 
 gall bladder of the sacrificed chickens and swines. 
 
 Padre Villaverde, whose guests we were when 
 in Ibung, describes their mode of warfare. 
 
 They live in monogamy and the housework as 
 well as the work in the fields is performed by the 
 wives, hunting and fishing by the men. 
 
 They build their Rancherias near streams and 
 rivers, on mountain slopes or hidden abysses. 
 
70 - 
 
 Every Kancheria has an Elder who settles do 
 mestic troubles and in time of war is the leader. 
 
 It was impossible to get any information about 
 their law-business. 
 
 The houses are built of cana (cane) and poles, 
 covered with cogon (grass). 
 
 They seem to change their abodes frequently. 
 
 The plains in the centre, under Spanish su 
 premacy, respectively in Dupaz and Bombang, are 
 inhabited by Indians, who, in anpearance, etc., incline 
 to Ibilaos, being descendants 01 the latter by inter 
 marrying. The Indians in Aretao, from the same 
 causes, intermarrying with Pangarinan and Agno 
 Igorrotes, resemble Igorrotes, and those in Bayam- 
 bong and Bagabac, the Gaddan Igorrotes. 
 
 The Igorrotes near Bombang immigrated from the 
 mountains of the west, those in the vicinity of Aretao 
 from the Agno. 
 
 The Pangarinan and Agno Igorrotes have a 
 great similarity with the Igorrotes of Benguet, the 
 same broad faces with flat noses, and are just as filthy 
 and poor as they. 
 
 The Gaddanes immigrated in the past century 
 from the Saltan, and settled all over the plains as far 
 as to the mountains of Quiangan and Silipan. 
 
 It can not be stated whether they found free 
 land and settled upon, or other Ibilaos occupying 
 already parts of the country. 
 
 The third group consists of the Igorrotes of 
 Quiangan, Silipan and Mayoyaos. 
 
71 
 
 They cut the hair round the head. The houses, 
 especially those of the better situated Principales, 
 are built of wooden boards, with neither chimneys 
 nor windows, and contain one door ; they are elevated 
 above the ground, supported by poles, and at night 
 time the ladder is drawn in and the door locked. 
 
 These are very wild tribes. 
 
 The Eancherias in Quiangan, numbering 53, have 
 a population of 13,000, and the 81 in Silipan over 
 15,000. 
 
 Near Diadi, where 19 Eancherias exist, the pop 
 ulation, mostly Mayoyaos, numbers 2,376. 
 
 The Perugianes, their neighbors to the north, on 
 both sides of the river Magat, up to the Saltan dis 
 trict, though of the same tribe, are their bitterest 
 enemies. 
 
 According to what the Spanish captain of the 
 boat related to us, there was a fight between the 
 Perugianes and the Mayoyaos, in which 14 were 
 killed and buried by the military, but were exhumed 
 by the Igorrotes the very same night. 
 
 All these wild tribes are independent of the 
 Spaniards, notwithstanding the Spanish missions and 
 the frequent military expeditions. Bordering to the 
 north, in the province of Isabella in the Saltan dis 
 trict, from the river Magat in the northwest to the 
 Partido Itabes and the river Bangag, live Gaddanes. 
 
 Blumentritt mentions their neighbors to the 
 left, in the southwest and west as Mayoyaos, and 
 Ifugaos in the south and southeast, in the west the 
 
72 
 
 Itetapanes and on the right side, north and north 
 west the Dadayags, north the Bayabmanes and 
 Itaves, and Calauas in the northwest. 
 
 The name " Ifugao " in the Gaddan dialect, as 
 spoken by the Indians of Nueva Viscaya in the 
 pueblos Bayambong, Solano and Bagabac, collect 
 ively, means wild tribes, the same as " Calinga " in 
 the Ibanac and Cagayan is a cognomen for wild and 
 not baptized Igorrotes. 
 
 In all my wanderings, I never heard the Daday 
 ags mentioned. The map of Luzon points to the 
 district of Pangul, on the narrow plains of the rio 
 Pangul or Pungal, as their habitation and where they 
 cultivate the land and follow the fishing business. 
 
 Though I have never seen them, I am convinced 
 that they are the same as those in the Saltan. 
 
 The same author says that Igorrotes live only 
 in the Benguet district, and the Itetapanes up to the 
 Cordillere central, as the neighbors of the Busaco 
 Igorrotes from Lepanto and Bontoc. He describes 
 the Itetapanes as resembling the Gaddanes, and un 
 like the Igorrotes, darker and smaller in size. 
 
 My observations and investigations in regard to 
 the Igorrotes lead me to the supposition, that all the 
 20 or 22 tribes, so strictly distinguished by Blumen- 
 tritt, are one and the same race, and that the names 
 of the different districts or localities, and the many 
 dialects corruptions of one original language as 
 well as frequent exodus and immigrations have unmis 
 takably added to this ethnographical error. 
 
73 
 
 In my travels through the provinces of Nueva 
 Viscaya, Isabella and Cagayan, Spaniards and 
 Indians knew nothing of such distinctions, and col 
 lectively called all the unbaptized inhabitants of the 
 left side of the rio Cagayan : Igorrotes, Calingas or 
 Ifugaos. 
 
 How far the Saltan district extends, is not known. 
 According to Spanish statements, it comprises all the 
 valleys on the banks of the rio Saltan and its tribu 
 taries and the northwestern part of the province of 
 Isabella, 9 miles from the Cabezera. 
 
 The rio Saltan, crossing Isabella and part of 
 Cagayan parallel to the rio Cagayan, and variably 
 called rio chico, Bangag or Pinacpac, must therefore 
 be the head of the great river. 
 
 To my recollection, the river discharging near 
 the Eancheria Pinacpo, taking its course in the 
 north and northwest from the mountains, had been 
 called Saltan. It is not improbable that Gaddanes 
 Eancherias exist south of Pinacpo on the banks of 
 the rio chico, but I know positively, that people from 
 the district of the rio Saltan participated in the 
 festivities in Calapo, up on the rio Malhauec or Mal- 
 uec, and that they were pointed out to me as relatives 
 of the Calapos and Eipangs. 
 
 The types of these Calapos and Eipangs were of 
 the ordinary cut, and though we had seen entirely 
 different physiognomies in Pinacpo, some with finely 
 formed noses, we still classified them as Gaddanes. 
 They wore the same ornaments as the Pinacpo people, 
 
74 
 
 liad their manners and customs, their houses 
 were built of the same material, cana, and had the 
 same rightangled forms. We found these high-roofed 
 houses also in Balario and Aripa, the women wearing 
 armrings and bracelets like those mentioned above 
 and the men the same garments. 
 
 As the district of the Calauas, better Eancheria 
 Calaua, the part high up in the second mountain 
 parallel where the rio Maluec takes its origin, was 
 pointed out to me. 
 
 On the map of Cuello, contrary to others, who 
 called it Saltan, the partido Itabes is found. The 
 Itabes proper, where he must be looked for now, is 
 undoubtedly in the region between rio Bangag or 
 chico and the rio Cagayan, commencing on the heights 
 of Solano and ending at Nariping. This is the most 
 iamous tobacco district. 
 
 Balani and Aripa purvey tobacco to the Govern 
 ment. 
 
 The Itabes speaking people were generally 
 called Calingas and styled themselves " Poor Calin- 
 gas" when in a conversation with us, making com 
 parisons. 
 
 All the Eancherias stream-upward of Maluec, are 
 enemies of the Apagaos. 
 
 Near Maluec, divided by a mountain range, lies 
 Apagaos on both banks of the rio Apagos, but 
 Negritto tribes are also there as in the Maluec 
 district. The Negrittos of Maluec are genuine Ne- 
 grittos and communicate with the Igorrotes, who 
 
75 
 
 tolerate, but do not estimate them. I never saw 
 Negritto women with Igorrote men, or vice versa. 
 
 The Igorrotes used Negritto arrows and arches } 
 the Negrittos, instead of bolos, old worn out Aliguas 
 of the Igorrotes. 
 
 In regard to the principal usages of all the 
 Igorrotes from Bombang to Aripa, they all have the 
 same customs and the same Anito cultus, the latter 
 not so much a distinct religion or creed as an ob 
 servance of a certain pious and devoted regard for 
 the dead. 
 
 The ceremonies at funerals, etc., are all alike. 
 They bury their dead underneath their houses and 
 on changing their abodes take them along. 
 
 The sacrifices on behalf of the sick, the con 
 tracting of marriages and the dissolution of such are 
 exhaustively described by Padre Villaverde from his 
 experiences in Quiangan and Silipan. 
 
 The Benguet Igorrotes, too, have the very same 
 observances. 
 
 .All these little tribes have no state constitutions, 
 no judiciaries and no properly elected chieftains. 
 
 In which way or manner they dispose of their 
 troubles, etc., I could not ascertain. To all proba 
 bilities, some old normal usages are observed to 
 which they submit and thus settle matters. 
 
 Vendetta is almost a standard law with the 
 Igorrotes. 
 
 The dead, without avenge, does not find any 
 peace in the grave and causes the family great trouble. 
 
76 
 
 A certain class of these wild tribes, prominent 
 through their wealth, a kind of patricians, are very 
 influential and domineering over the poorer. 
 
 They loan to the latter victuals or other things 
 and take usurous percentages. 
 
 Not able to pay the interests, which, in a short 
 time exceed the capital, they gradually sink into a 
 sort of slavery and have to work for their oppressors 
 in the fields or in the houses, thereby leading a 
 miserable existence. 
 
 The mountain Igorrotes have but little even land 
 on which to sow or plant, and as ploughs are un 
 known, a piece of wood, pointed on one end, is used 
 for turning the soil and making furrows. 
 
 Carabaos (buffaloes), which have to work in the 
 fields, etc., I have only seen in Balan and Aripa, 
 where the tribes were tamer and where the cultiva 
 tion of tobacco for sale was carried on, elsewhere 
 only the work of man. In Quiangan, where this 
 primitive way of working the fields is used, rice is. 
 the principal and most important crop. The nai^row 
 or broad terraces, constituting the fields, are built up 
 with grassy soil and stonedams, a very weary some work. 
 
 The smallest space of land is of an enormous 
 value in this part of the island and is inheritable. 
 
 This fact, and the solid wooden houses, lead to 
 the belief that the inhabitants never change their 
 habitations. 
 
 The climate is cooler than in the promontories, 
 and hence the massive buildings. 
 
77 
 
 In the Saltan, the houses are not so solid, and 
 from the finding of big trees and logs, half charred* 
 it seems to be certain that the country was settled 
 in former times. 
 
 There is no industry amongst the Igorrotes, 
 their weapons, domestic utensils and jewelries are 
 exchanged from other Rancherias. From the valley 
 of Sapao, up in Bontoc, most of the bolos are gotten 
 from, and the woven clothes from Balani. 
 
 The so-called blacksmith shop in Pinacpo was 
 a very primitive affair, the hammers of which were 
 loaned to another Rancheria. 
 
 The art of forging iron is kept a great secret 
 with them. 
 
 Olios are manufactured of clay in the districts 
 where the latter is found. 
 
 It was in Pinacpo where the religious festivity, of 
 which I made mention above, took place. The origin 
 of it was as follows: A family lost a child by death 
 over a year ago, and shortly afterwards the pater 
 f amilias was suffering from a sore leg. This incident 
 leads them to the belief that the dead child endures 
 great hardships in heaven, amongst others, that it is 
 badly, if ever, nourished and therefore plaguing its 
 parents. To pacify the spirits, a continued sacri 
 ficing of chicken, pigs and other animals was or 
 dained, and for 21 days this was done under the 
 almost uninterrupted songs of both sexes. 
 
 It was just toward the end of this feast when we 
 arrived in Pinacpo, and we had a good opportunity 
 
78 
 
 to witness the rites and ceremonies of the Anito 
 observances. 
 
 The wine which they drank on this occasion, 
 was made from the juice of sugar cane, and is very 
 intoxicating. 
 
 Ropes are manufactured here from ratan and 
 the fibre of the Anabu. Basket making is one of the 
 principal industries of the Igorrotes, and the Tagear- 
 abos, or headclothes, also from the fibres of certain 
 plants, are as fine as linen. 
 
 They use either old iron or steel bars from the 
 Indians, the forging of iron, etc., is unknown to them, 
 even their wooden shields are bought, and the poorer 
 class, not possessing any, have to lend them from 
 the richer when they intend to go hunting. 
 
 The Igorrote never leaves his house without his 
 lance and shield, the constant feud between the 
 Rancherias dictates this precaution. 
 
 We did not see any skulls of murdered persons 
 on the houses of the Saltans and Itabes as elsewhere, 
 but so-called victory columns, and when they are 
 erected after some successful encounters, festivities, 
 etc., follow these events. 
 
 The Igorrotes do not bury their killed enemies, 
 believing, that if they remain unburied they will 
 annoy and molest their relations. 
 
 Heroism is not to be found amongst the Igor- 
 rotes; they seldom fight a battle in the open field, but 
 cowardly kill the enemy from some hidden spot. 
 
 I found myself in Aringay, in the province of 
 
79 
 
 San Fernando, with but one servant, unable to pro 
 cure a few more, and considering the voyage to 
 Benguet with this insufficient protection rather 
 unsafe, I intended to return to Manila, to recuperate 
 from the hardships to which I was subjected during 
 a four months stay in this forlorn corner of the Globe. 
 
 Satisfied that^the results of this expedition, viz : 
 the commission of Professor Bastian, Doctor Jagor 
 and the request of the Jesuit Father Faura would 
 meet with due acknowledgement and appreciation on 
 the part of those gentlemen, I assorted my collection 
 of ethnographical, anthropological, botanical and 
 geological curiosos and parted from my companion, 
 the indefatigable Mr. Au, who had shared in all de 
 privations so faithfully. 
 
 It is but just to state that the success with which 
 my travels in Luzon were crowned, is mostly due to 
 the generosity and kindness of the different catholic 
 Curas, the Commandants of the Guardia Civil, the 
 Gobernadorcillos, and especially to the druggist 
 Grupe in Manila, by whom I was recommended to 
 the above mentioned, and I here express my heart 
 felt thanks to them. 
 
 Without exaggerating, I can say that the four 
 months travel in the Philippines were of a far more 
 wearysome nature than my two years voyages in the 
 Himalayas, Ceylon and Java. 
 
 The Philippines belong to the Malaysia, which 
 latter comprises the islands and island groups lying 
 just off the coast of southeastern Asia, and containing 
 
80 
 
 the large islands of Luzon, Mindanao, Celebes, Java, 
 Sumatra and Borneo, and is a division of Oceania. 
 
 The export from the Philippines chiefly consists 
 of coffee, cordage, hemp, indigo, rice, liquid indigo, 
 sugar and sapan wood, the proceeds of which were 
 23 millions of dollars in 1882. 
 
 The^irea of both Luzon and Mindanao, whose 
 capital Je pangan has 10,000 inhabitants, contains 
 about 97,000 square miles, the population 5,190,000. 
 Between the Philippines and 100 west longitude, are 
 situated the islands and groups of Polynesia. 
 
 Eeturned to Manila, I forwarded ethnographical 
 and other collected curiosities to Europe, and re 
 ported to Father Faura in a special, herein not con 
 tained, extract of my observations and experiences in 
 the region of the earthquakes of 1881, and after a 
 brief stay left Manila for Shanghai by way of Hong- 
 Kong on an English steamer of the Peninsula Oriental 
 line. 
 
my return to Manila,! reported to the 
 European scientists and to several Spanish geo 
 graphical authors in different parts of the Philippine 
 Islands and took passage for Hong-Kong, respectively 
 Shanghai, on an English steamer. 
 
 Arrived in Shanghai, the sad news of the death of 
 my dear, beloved father had reached me, and thus I 
 was prevented to continue my intended journey to 
 Peckin or Peking. 
 
 From Hong-Kong to Shanghai, the Formosa Canal 
 has to be crossed and the Island of Formosa passed. 
 
 Wanchau, Ningpo and other places on the shores 
 offer nothing noteworthy. 
 
 Here is the famous monastery "Sicawei" and a 
 meteorological observatory. 
 
 A railroad, built in 1876 for the purpose of com 
 municating the two cities Shanghai and Woosung, a 
 distance of 20 miles, was bought by the Government 
 the year following and closed. 
 
 On account of my short stay in China, I made all 
 possible efforts to collect official Statistics and Data 
 regarding this Empire, and was partially successful. 
 
 Area: 4,419,150 square miles, with 371,180,000 
 population, consequently the most populated country in 
 the world. 
 
82 
 
 The state religion, without any outward ceremonies, 
 has only a few symbolic rites on New Year s day, and 
 consists in the study of the doctrines of Confucius and 
 Lao-tse. 
 
 The plurality of the people are Buddhists and 
 public education almost universal, but few adults un 
 able to read and write. 
 
 It is asserted that China has had newspapers over 
 a thousand years ago. 
 
 23 Cities in the Chinese Empire have a population 
 of over 100,000 and 66 with over 50,000 souls. 
 
 The chief exports are tea and silk. The coal mines 
 of China rank amongst the greatest in the world, over 
 3 millions of tons are annually produced 5 the mines in 
 Kai-ping alone producing 600 tons daily. 
 
 It was absolutely impossible for me to get any 
 correct information about the Chinese u Flora/ as there 
 are no reliable sources to be found. 
 
 Procuring passage on a Japanese steamer of the 
 Mitsi-Pitsi line, commanded by an American captain, 
 we sailed first on the Leviathan of Rivers, the Yang- 
 tse-kiang, whose length is 3,320 miles and the basin of 
 which comprises an area of 950,000 square miles, and 
 afterwards on the China Sea, when we reached Naga 
 saki, in whose neighborhood is Decima. 
 
 From Nagasaki I visited the inland lakes of Japan. 
 The beauty of these lakes with their surrounding 
 sceneries, and the rich vegetation is almost indescribable. 
 
 Hiogo, the seaport of Osaka, an important city and 
 the commercial centre of Japan, is situated on a 
 
83 
 
 gradually ascending wooded chain of hills, attaining an 
 altitude of 2,000 and has 20,000 inhabitants. 
 
 Several fresh water rivers discharge in the Bay of 
 Hiogo. 
 
 Of the national beverage of the Japanese, the Sake 
 or ricebeer, there are numerous breweries in this city. 
 This Sake, to comply with the taste of the Japanese 
 must have the following five qualities: bitter, sweet, 
 sour, sharp and astringent, and the odor of fusel-oil. 
 
 It contains from 11 to 17 per cent, alcohol. Ac 
 cording to analyzations by European chemists, the Sake 
 is detrimental to health, and still, of the whole rice crop 
 in Japan, 9 per cent, are used for manufacturing this 
 national draught. 
 
 I was assured here, that the brewing of Sake in 
 Japan, dates back as far as 2600 years, and that Sake 
 brewers from China had arrived in Japan 400 A. C. to 
 introduce the improved chinese Sake breweries. 
 
 Certain rules of etiquette regulate the quantities of 
 Sake to be drunk on different occasions and the revenues 
 of both, the Government and the Brewers, are immense. 
 Sake is brewed between the months of November and 
 March, as it requires a low degree of temperature. 
 
 The road from Hiogo to Osaka, a distance of 30 
 miles, leads through valleys, unbridged rivers and 
 mountain ridges, with eggplants, rice, cotton and beans 
 planted on the river shores. 
 
 Azaleas grow here abundantly in a wild state. 
 
 At a distance of about one mile from Osaka, the 
 palace, formerly inhabited by the Tycoon, is visible; 
 
84 
 
 it is romantically situated on the summit of a hill, 
 crowned with a forest. 
 
 Osaka, on the shores of a great river and many 
 canals has an important commerce, several noteworthy 
 temples and a theatre. 
 
 Not far from Osaka, I visited the famous temple of 
 Buddha, in which the colossal bronze figure of Buddha 
 exists. 
 
 Hiogo was my starting point for the frequent ex 
 cursions to the interior of Japan, having been furnished 
 with passports from the Government to Kioto or Miako. 
 
 On this route Osaka is also reached. On a visit to 
 the Biwa lake a nice sheet of water I was surprised 
 to find in its vicinity an extensive monastery of Buddha 
 of which I had known nothing. 
 
 Returned to Hiogo, another excursion was made to 
 the Suonada lake, separating the two islands of Kiusin 
 and Sikopf from the larger island of Nipon (the latter, 
 the main-land and the largest of the groups of islands 
 and therefore called Dai-Nipon or Great Nipon). 
 
 This so-called Inland lake extends to the bay of 
 Osaka, has a length of about 200 miles and contains 
 numerous rocks and small islands. 
 
 Simonoseki, at the head of Suonada lake has 10,000 
 inhabitants, some commerce, and is surrounded by high 
 hills. In one of the temples of this place, a cartoon, 
 representing a sea battle, two swords and other relics of 
 Taiko-sama, the great soldier and founder of a small 
 dynasty of but a short duration, who lived at about the 
 year 1582, are shown. 
 
85 
 
 Starting for the gold mines in the northwest and 
 afterwards by steamer to Yokohama, I boarded a train 
 for Tokio (formerly known as Yeddo or Jedo), one of 
 the two capitals. 
 
 The population of Tokio numbers 823,557. 
 
 One of the most important and famous temples in 
 Tokio is the Aoaxa ? situated in the busiest portion of 
 the city j it is also called the temple of Quanona. 
 
 The god Quanon, with his 36 arms and 100 
 hands, is very popular and thousands of people are 
 constantly seen to crowd in his neighborhood. 
 
 The pilgrimages to Isje, where the 33 chief Quan- 
 quon temples exist, are the largest, and those to the 
 Buddhistic temples of Lin and Cami also of large pro 
 portions. 
 
 The state religion in Japan is Sinto, or Shinto, and 
 it is a remarkable feature that both, the orthodox dis 
 ciples of Sinto as well as the Buddhists, visit the Quan- 
 quon temples. 
 
 Of all the temples, however, the temple of Saif in 
 Sicousin, where Teentin died, is the pre-eminent. 
 
 In a northerly direction from here, I visited the 
 famous temple of Nikko, in whose neighborhood is a 
 volcanic chain of mountains where frequent eruptions 
 take place. 
 
 An excursion to the Hakone mountains, the most 
 beautiful in Japan, and where the extinct volcano 
 "Fussiyama," a sombre, ragged peak, impresses one 
 most unfavorably, is well repaying the trouble. 
 
 To-Kaido ? the main road, leads from E. to W., 
 
86 
 
 from Tokio, one of the capitals, to Kioto the 
 other. 
 
 It is surprising to find an almost tropical vegetation 
 in Japan, considering the northern latitude of this 
 country, almost everywhere Palmtrees, Bamboo, 
 Cryptomeria Japonica, Glycinse cinensis or Wistaria, 
 Thujopsis dolabrata, Retinispora, the family of the Ro- 
 saceas and Coniferes to be found. 
 
 The cultivation of dwarf-trees and plants, especially 
 of the Padocarpus, is carried on in a grand and unsur 
 passed style and the export of Coniferes is very impor 
 tant. 
 
 The shooting or killing of birds within a circuit of 
 10 Ri, or 30 English miles from the residence of the 
 Mikado, is strictly prohibited. 
 
 Japan, or Zipangu, the sunrise kingdom, is an em 
 pire composed of islands lying east of Asia, and is sup 
 posed to have been founded 660 A. C. Area, 148,- 
 456 square miles. Population, 36,700,118. The pop 
 ulation is divided into classes, as follows: Imperial 
 family, 39 5 Kwazokii, or nobles, 3,204; Shizoku, or 
 knights, 1,931,825; common people, 34,765,051. 
 
 The government is an absolute monarchy. The 
 title of the sovereign is Supreme Lord, or Emperor 
 (Mikado). Agriculture is followed to a great extent. 
 The chief agricultural products are rice, wheat and 
 beans. The principal manufactures are silk and cotton 
 goods, Japanned ware, porcelain and bronze. The 
 value of the exports, 1883, was $35,609,000; of im 
 ports, $28,548,000. 
 
87 
 
 A law went into effect in 1874, by which the gov 
 ernment gives nine bushels of rice annually to each 
 person over seventy or under fifteen years of age un 
 able to work, and to foundlings until they reach the age 
 of thirteen. 
 
 Latest reports place the number of paupers at 10,- 
 050, and expenditures at $88,975. 
 
 School attendance is compulsory. There are 30,- 
 275 schools in the empire, of which 71 are normal, 98 
 are technical, and 2 are universities 5 also, a military 
 college and military school, with 1,200 students. 
 Latest reports give 82,213 teachers and 2,703,343 pu 
 pils. School age from 6 to 14. Public libraries, 21. 
 Shintoism is the ancient religious faith ; but Buddhism 
 is the religion of nearly all the common people. The 
 first railroad in the empire was opened June, 1875; it 
 extended from Hiogo to Osaka, 25 miles. At the end of 
 June, 1884, there were 236 miles of railway in the empire. 
 
 After a brief stay in Yokohama, I took passage on 
 a steamer of the English Oriental and Occidental 
 Steamship Company and started for another division ot 
 the globe, " America." 
 
 After a two weeks very agreeable sea voyage I ar 
 rived in the San Francisco bay on the evening of the 
 9th of November. 
 
 Already from a distance, San Francisco, amphithe- 
 atrically situated on the inner slope of a peninsula and 
 on and at the base of high hills, is visible. 
 
 San Francisco, the chief city of California and com 
 mercial metropolis of the Pacific coast, is separated 
 
88 
 
 from the ocean by the above mentioned peninsula, 
 which is 30 miles long and 6 miles across the city, at 
 the northern end of which San Francisco stands, in lat. 
 37 46 N. and long. 122 46 W. 
 
 The greater part of the peninsula is hilly. In the 
 K E. corner of the city is Telegraph Hill, 294 ft. high ; 
 in the S. E. corner Rincon Hill, 120 ft. high 5 and on 
 the W. side Russian Hill, 360 ft. high. The densely 
 populated quarters are in the amphitheatre formed by 
 the three hills. 
 
 The city is regularly laid out, the streets are broad 
 and there are many handsome buildings. 
 
 The history of San Francisco is interesting on 
 account of the rapid growth of the place. The first 
 house was built in 1835, when the village was called 
 Yerba Buena (Spanish "good herb 7 ), so-named from 
 a medicinal plant growing in abundance in the vicinity. 
 In 1847 this was changed to San Francisco, and in 
 1848, the year that gold was first discovered in Cali 
 fornia by the white settlers, the population had increased 
 to 1,000. The influx from the East then commenced, 
 and in December, 1850, the population was about 
 25,000. According to the census of 1880 it amounted 
 to 233,956, and it is now estimated as containing more 
 than 300,000 population. The city was incorporated 
 in 1850, and in 1851 and 1856, in consequence of bad 
 municipal government and corrupt administration of 
 the criminal laws, the people organized Vigilance Com 
 mittees, and summarily executed several criminals and 
 banished others. 
 
This rough but wholesome discipline had its effect, 
 and the city is now one of the most orderly in the 
 country. 
 
 The commerce of San Francisco is very large, the 
 chief articles of export being the precious metals, 
 breadstuffs, wines, wool and fruits ; and of import, 
 lumber, coal, coffee, tea, rice and sugar. 
 
 The manufactures are important, including woolen 
 and silk mills, and manufactories of watches, carriages, 
 boots, furniture, candles, acids, wire-work, castings of 
 iron and brass and silver ware. 
 
 The City Hall, in process of erection, will be a fine 
 structure. 
 
 The U. S. Branch Mint contains the finest machin 
 ery, to be believed unapprochable in perfection and 
 efficiency. 
 
 The Merchants Exchange is one of the most costly 
 and spacious buildings in the city. The Palace Hotel 
 is a vast and ornate building, 9 stories high, and 
 erected at a cost of $3,250,000. 
 
 Another palatial structure is the Baldwin Hotel. 
 The Mercantile Library contains 50,000 volumes. 
 
 The finest and largest church edifice on the Pacific 
 coast is that of St. Ignatius Church and College (Roman 
 Catholic) j the finest interior is that of St. Patrick s 
 (Roman Catholic). The First Unitarian and Trinity 
 churches are remarkably fine architectures, and the 
 Jewish Synagogue of Emanu-El is a large, elegant and 
 substantial structure, with two lofty towers and a richly 
 decorated interior. 
 
90 
 
 The University of California, near San Francisco, 
 is the most important educational institution. The city 
 also contains two Medical Colleges, an excellent School 
 of Design, and three Academies. 
 
 Among the charitable institutions, the principal are 
 the U. S. Marine Hospital, St. Mary s Roman Catholic, 
 the City New Hospital, the State Woman s Hospital, 
 the Protestant Orphan Asylum, the Almshouse, the 
 Roman Catholic Orphan Asylum, the State Asylum for 
 the Deaf, Dumb and Blind, near Oakland, and the 
 Alameda Park Asylum for the Insane, on the Encinal, 
 Alameda. 
 
 The Golden Gate Park comprises 1,043 acres. One 
 of the features of the Park is a magnificent conserva 
 tory, in which, at the proper season, the only specimen 
 of the Victoria Regia Lily in America can be seen; the 
 building is modeled after the Royal Conservatories of 
 Kew, England. 
 
 Laurel Hill Cemetry is a very beautiful burial-ground, 
 with many fine monuments. In the vicinity is a sin 
 gular, conically-shaped mountain, which rises up 
 singly and alone to a considerable height above the 
 surrounding tolerably level country. The great feature 
 is Lone Mountain, with its unrivalled outlook, embrac 
 ing views of the city, bay, ocean, Mount Diablo and 
 the Coast Range. 
 
 There are about 40,000 Chinese in San Francisco, 
 and the u Chinese Quarter" is worth a visit, especially 
 the two theatres, in which the entire audience, even 
 the women, who have a compartment to themselves, 
 
91 
 
 are found either smoking tobacco or opium, whilst the 
 performance is carried on amidst the beating of gongs, 
 the clashing of cymbals and other hideous kinds of 
 noise. A visit to the opium cellars and gambling 
 houses, and to the temples open at all times and in 
 which joss-sticks smoke in front of the favorite Gods, 
 will repay the curious traveler. 
 
 Of great interest is the Cliff House, in the vicinity 
 of San Francisco, a low rambling building, set on the 
 edge of some cliffs rising sharply from the ocean. The 
 Seal Kock, close by, where the seals are basking in 
 the sun or wriggle over the rocks, barking so noisily, 
 is a beautiful sight. 
 
 Northward lies the Golden Gate, the beautiful 
 entrance to San Francisco Bay. In front is the vast 
 Pacific Ocean, on whose distant horizon, on a clear day, 
 the peaks of the Farallone Islands are visible. 
 
 In the Southwestern part of the city is the old mis 
 sion of San Francisco, Mission Dolores, it is an adobe 
 building of the old Spanish style, built in 1778. 
 
 My next excursion was to the Yosemite Valley, and 
 en route to it, to the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees. 
 
 The Grove is part of a grant made by Congress to 
 be set apart for u public use, resort and recreation" for 
 ever. The area covered by the grant is 2 miles square 
 and embraces 2 distinct groves which are about % mile 
 apart. The Upper Grove contains 365 trees, of which 
 154 are over 15 ft. in diameter. The largest tree in 
 the Grove is the Grissly Giant (Lower Grove) which is 
 still 94 ft. in circumference and 31 ft. in diameter, 
 
92 
 
 though much decreased by burning. The first branch 
 is nearly 200 ft. from the ground, and is 6 ft. in dia 
 meter. The remains of a prostrate tree, now nearly 
 consumed by fire, indicates that it must have reached 
 a diameter of about 40 ft. and a height of 400 ft. The 
 trunk is hollow, and will admit the passage of 3 horse 
 men riding abreast. There are about 125 trees over 
 40 ft. in circumference. 
 
 The Yosemite Valley is situated on the Merced 
 River in the Southern portion of the county of Mariposa, 
 about 220 miles from San Francisco. It is on the 
 Western slope of the Sierra Nevada, midway between 
 its E. and W. base. The valley is a nearly level area, 
 about 6 miles in length and from a half to a mile in 
 width, and almost a mile in perpendicular depth below 
 the general level of the adjacent region, and inclosed 
 in frowning granite walls rising with almost unbroken 
 and perpendicular faces to the dizzy height of from 
 3000 to 6000 ft. 
 
 From the brow of the precipices in several places 
 spring streams of water, forming cataracts of a beauty 
 and magnificence surpassing anything known in moun 
 tain scenery. The valley is almost one vast flower 
 garden, plants, shrubs and flowers of every hue cover 
 the ground like a carpet, the eye is dazzled by the 
 brilliancy of the color, and the air is heavy with the 
 fragrance of myriads of blossoms. On every side are 
 seen the beautiful and many colored Manzanita and 
 Madrone and other beautiful trees. 
 
 The Yosemite was discovered in the Spring of 1851 
 
93 
 - yd - 
 
 by a party under the command of Captain Boling in 
 pursuit of a band of predatory Indians, who made it 
 their stronghold, considering it inaccessible to the 
 whites. By an act of Congress passed in 1864, the 
 Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa grove of Big Trees 
 were granted to the State of California upon the ex 
 press condition that they shall be kept "for public use, 
 resort and recreation, inaleniable for all time. 7 
 
 The most striking feature of the valley scenery is 
 "El Capitan," on account of its isolation, its breadth, 
 its perpendicular sides and its prominence as it projects 
 like a great rock promontory into the valley. 
 
 On the opposite side is the "Bridal Veil Fall," 
 where the creek of the same name leaps over a cliff 
 900 ft. high into the valley below. 
 
 The "Sentinel Rock," 3043 ft. high, is one of the 
 grandest masses of rock in the Yosemite. 
 
 The Yosemite Falls are regarded as the most won 
 derful feature of the scenery. The Fall has a total 
 height of 2600 ft. which is not all perpendicular; there 
 is first a vertical leap of 1500 ft., then a series of cas 
 cades down a descent equal to 626 ft. perpendicular, 
 and then a final plunge of 400 ft. to the rocks at the 
 baso of the precipice. No falls in the known world can 
 be compared with these in height and romantic grand 
 eur. 
 
 The Half Dome is a crest of granite rising to the 
 height of 4737 ft. above the valley. 
 
 The Mirror Lake, Vernon Fall and the Cap of 
 Liberty are worth visiting, but the Nevada Fall is in 
 
94 
 
 every respect one of the grandest water falls in the 
 world, in regard to the stupendous scenery by which it 
 is surrounded, its vertical height and the purity and 
 volume of the river which it forms. 
 
 It is almost impossible to describe all the wonders of 
 this blessed spot and I will therefore proceed on my 
 journey to Santa Cruz, one of the two famous Summer 
 resorts of California." This city is attractively situated 
 on the N. side of Monterey Bay, and nearby are Aptos 
 and Soquel, popular sea-side resorts. Opposite Santa 
 Cruz, at the S. extremity of the Bay, is the historic 
 city of Monterey. Until 1847 this town was the seat 
 of government and principal port on the California 
 coast 5 but since the rise of San Francisco its commerce 
 and business have dwindled away, and it is now one of 
 the quietest places in the State. As a health-resort it 
 has begun to attract attention within the last 4 or 5 
 years. 
 
 In the heart of the Santa Clara Valley which lies 
 between the coast and Santa Cruz Mountains, and is 
 watered by the Coyote and Guadalupe rivers and by 
 artesian wells, said to be the most fertile in the world 
 is the city of San Jose, with a population of 13,000. 
 The main portion of the city occupies a gently rising 
 plateau between the Coyote and Guadalupe Rivers, 1-J- 
 miles apart. The most noteworthy features are: the 
 Lick Observatory, in course of erection on the summit 
 of Mount Hamilton, 4,443 feet high, 12 miles from the 
 city and the Court House, the City Hall, the State 
 Normal School arid the Roman Catholic College of 
 
95 
 
 Notre Dame. The famous Almaden Quicksilver Mines 
 are about 14 miles from San Jose. 
 
 Santa Clara is a picturesque village with about 
 4,000 inhabitants and 3 miles from the former city. 
 
 Pacific Congress Springs with medicinal waters, re 
 commended to sufferers with rheumatism, and Napa 
 City, 46 miles from San Francisco, a thrifty place of 
 about 4,000 inhabitants, with many beautiful drives in 
 the vicinity, especially those to Santa liosa and the 
 famous wine cellars of Sonoma, are romantically 
 situated. 
 
 Calistoga, a pretty town in a valley, encircled by 
 forest-clad hills and mountains, has numerous mineral 
 springs in the vicinity. 
 
 About 5 miles S. E. of Calistoga is the "Petrified 
 Forest," one of the great natural wonders of California. 
 Portions of nearly 100 distinct trees of great size, 
 scattered over a tract of 3 or 4 miles in extent, have 
 been found, the largest being 1 1 ft. in diameter at the 
 base and 60 ft. long. They are supposed to have been 
 silicified by an eruption of the neighboring Mount 
 St. Helena, which discharged hot alkaline waters con 
 taining silica in solution. 
 
 The Geyser Spring, situated in Sonoma County in 
 a lateral gorge of the Napa Valley, called the DeviFs 
 Canon is near the Pluton River. 
 
 The approaches to the Springs are very impressive, 
 the scenery being finer, according to Bayard Taylor, 
 than anything in the Lower Alps. A multitude of 
 springs gush out at the base of the rocks. Hot and 
 
96 
 
 cold springs, boiling springs and quiet springs lie within 
 a few feet of each other. 
 
 They differ also in color, smell and taste. Some are 
 clear and transparent, others white, yellow or red with 
 ochre, while still others are of an inky blackness. 
 
 Some are sulphurous and fetid in odor, and some 
 are charged with alum and salt. The surface of the 
 ground is too hot to walk upon with thin shoes, and is 
 covered with the minerals deposited by the waters, 
 among which are sulphur, sulphate of magnesia, 
 sulphate of aluminum and various salts of iron . They are 
 recommended in rheumatism, gout and in skin diseases. 
 
 Among the health resorts of southern California, 
 the most frequented is Santa Barbara, lying in a 
 sheltered nook of the shore of the Pacific with an 
 extremely equable and mild climate, the mean temper 
 ature in summer being 69, 58 and in winter 53, 33. 
 
 The society of the place is exceptionally pleasant 
 and refined. The town, with about 6,000 inhabitants, 
 contains a Spanish quarter and a Chinese quarter, and 
 the new American part of the town, especially the 
 suburbs are handsomely built and tastefully adorned. 
 Every plot of ground, no matter how small, has its row 
 of orange trees, its exotics, and its bed of native 
 perennials. Eoses abound summer and winter. The 
 Verbena beds are cut down like grass thrice yearly, 
 and spring up again stronger than ever. Vines of 
 every sort flourish luxuriantly, Heliotrope climbs 20 ft. 
 high, Cacti of the rarest and most curious sorts grow 
 freely, and a little shoot of the Australian blue-gum 
 
97 
 
 (Eucalyptus globulus) becomes in 2 years a shade- 
 tree 15 or 20 ft. high. 
 
 San Diego is another favorite resort, 460 miles S. E. 
 of San Francisco. The climate is very salubrious, the 
 thermometer seldom rises to 80, or sinks to the freez 
 ing point, the usual mean being 62. 
 
 482 miles from San Francisco lies the largest city 
 in southern California, Los Angeles, on the W. bank of 
 the Los Angeles river, a small stream, 30 miles above 
 its entrance into the Pacific. The city was settled by 
 Spaniards in 1780, and was called Pueblo de los 
 Angeles from the excellence of its climate and the 
 beauty of its surroundings. Its population by the 
 census of 1880 was 11,311, and the adobe buildings of 
 which it was originally composed are fast giving way 
 to larger and more imposing structures. In the N. W. 
 portion is a hill 60 feet high, commanding a fine view 
 of the city, which lies in a sheltered valley, bounded 
 on the W. by low hills that extend from the Santa 
 Monica mountains, 40 miles distant, and on the E. by 
 the San Gabriel plateau. 
 
 The climate is mild, the nights, however, are chilly. 
 Along both banks of the river below the city extends a 
 fertile plain, planted with vineyards and orange-groves, 
 and there are also large vineyards within the city 
 limits. Los Angeles is the center of the orange grow 
 ing business of California, and lemons, olives, and other 
 tropical fruits are cultivated in the vicinity. 
 
 About 60 miles E. of Los Angeles is San Bernardino. 
 The view of Mount San Bernardino, the loftiest peak of 
 
98 
 
 the Coast Range, is exceedingly grand. San Ber 
 nardino is reached from Los Angeles by a stage-ride of 
 10 hours. 
 
 The Southern Pacific Railroad, between Los An 
 geles and Tucson, Arizona, leads through the famous 
 Colorado Desert, 300 feet below the level of the sea, 
 with no vegetation but snow-white sand on both sides, 
 now and then interrupted by lonely Cacti a very 
 triste wearysome voyage. After Yuma is reached, 
 there is a different atmosphere, and one feels greatly 
 relieved. Yuma is near the junction of the Gila and 
 Colorado rivers, and is the W. terminus of the Arizona 
 branch of the Southern Pacific Railroad, and has a 
 population of 2,500. 
 
 Tucson, with about 7,000 inhabitants, was, until 
 recently, the capital of the territory and is an ancient 
 city, founded in 1560 by Jesuits. It does a large 
 business in exporting gold dust, wool and hides. Some 
 sixty miles distant, near Casa Grande, is a remarkable 
 ruin of an ancient Pueblo city, these interesting re 
 mains being preserved in a very perfect state, and 
 extending 2-rr miles by 1|- miles, showing that it must 
 have had a population in olden times of at least 100,- 
 000 people. 
 
 Prescott, the capital of Arizona, is a small but very 
 active place, and has an important commerce with 
 mineral, agricultural and stock raising products. 
 
 Arizona was first visited by Spanish explorers as 
 early as 1526, and is set off from New Mexico and be 
 came a territory in 1863. Area: 113,020 square 
 
99 
 
 miles j greatest length, 375 miles ; greatest breadth, 
 340 miles. Country drained by Colorado and Gila, 
 with their tributaries. 
 
 Temperature at Prescott : winter, 34 to 42 5 
 summer, 71 to 73. Kainfall at Fort Defiance, 14 inches. 
 
 Southern Pacific crosses from east to west near 
 southern boundary, and Atlantic and Pacific north of 
 the central portion, making ready communication with 
 East and West. Wheat, barley, potatoes, hay and 
 corn the chief crops. Soil fertile in river bottoms and 
 among valleys of Middle and Eastern Arizona, corn 
 planting following wheat or barley harvest, giving two 
 crops yearly ; oranges and other fruit produce well 
 where there is water, the principal portion of irrigable 
 land lies in the valley of the Gila and its northern 
 branches 5 rich and abundant grasses, together with 
 the mild climate, make much of the territory well 
 adapted to stock raising ; valuable timber is on the 
 mountains and along the streams. 
 
 Abundant mineral wealth, which can now be de 
 veloped with profit, owing to completion of railways j 
 nearly all mountain ranges contain gold, silver, copper 
 and lead ; the gold production in 1882 was $1,065,000 ; 
 silver, $7,500,000. 
 
 The Territory ranks second in silver. Superior 
 quality of lime found near Prescott and Tucson; beds 
 of gypsum in San Pedro valley j remarkable deposits 
 of pure, transparent salt near Callville. 
 
 Population 40,440, including 155 Colored, 1,630 
 Chinese and 3,493 Indians. 
 
100 
 
 School population, 10,283; school age, 0-21. 
 
 From Arizona I traveled directly to El Paso in 
 Texas, staying there only a very short time. The 
 Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe E.R. connects here in its 
 own depot with the Mexican Central R.R. The popula 
 tion of El Paso is about 1,500 and the city is growing 
 very rapidly ; a large retail and wholesale trade is done 
 here, and its superior railroad facilities give El Paso 
 merchants many advantages. Street cars run across 
 the Rio Grande to the old Mexican town of Paso del Norte. 
 
 El Paso del Norte is built almost entirely of adobe, 
 and the homes of its 6,000 people are scattered along a 
 narrow, rambling, adobe-walled street running several 
 miles down the river. 
 
 The ride to the city of Chihuahua introduces the 
 traveler to the wide expanse of that high table-land 
 which forms the greater portion of the interior of 
 Mexico, but for variety it also includes a view of the 
 beautiful valley of the Rio Carmen, with its green 
 meadows and dark forests, while beyond, on the W., 
 lie the Sierra Madre mountains. 
 
 Chihuahua, the capital of the state of the same 
 name, is a beautiful city w r ith 20,000 population. 
 The city being the center of a rich mining, agricultural 
 and stock-growing country has a great deal of wealth 
 and refinement. Its magnificent cathedral is one of the 
 most imposing edifices on the continent. 
 
 Returned to El Paso from this little and short Mex 
 ican excursion, I boarded the train for San Antonio in 
 Texas. 
 
101 
 
 San Antonio is the chief city of western Texas and 
 has a population of about 22,000, one-third of whom 
 are of German and one-third of Mexican origin. It is 
 situated on the San Antonio and San Pedro rivers, and 
 is divided into three quarters : San Antonio proper, be 
 tween the two streams ; Alamo, E. of the San Antonio ; 
 and Chihuahua, W. of the San Pedro. The former is 
 the business quarter, and has been almost entirely re 
 built since 1860. 
 
 In the north part of the Alamo Plaza is the famous 
 Fort Alamo, where in March, 1836, a garrison of Tex- 
 ans, attacked by an overwhelming Mexican force, per 
 ished to a man rather than yield. Missions San Jose, 
 San Juan, and Concepcion, built by the Spaniards, who 
 founded San Antonio in 1714, are interesting objects; 
 and the market places and street scenes amuse the vis 
 itor as being so queer and foreign. 
 
 Austin was the next place I visited. It is the cap 
 ital of Texas, has 11,000 inhabitants and is situated on 
 the N. bank of the Colorado river, 160 miles from its 
 mouth. 
 
 There are many fine buildings in Austin and sev 
 eral State charitable institutions. An artesian well has 
 been sunk north of the Capitol, to the depth of 1,300 
 ft., from which a small stream constantly flows, dis 
 charging a medicinal, lime-impregnated water. 
 
 Houston, the third city of Texas in population and 
 commerce and the first in manufactures, is situated at 
 the head of tidewater on Buffalo Bayou, 45 miles above 
 its mouth in Galveston Bay. By the census of 1880 
 
102 
 
 it had a population of 18,646, and is the center of the 
 railroad system of the State, with nine diverging rail 
 ways which bring to it the produce of a rich grazing 
 and agricultural region. Its manufactures are varied 
 and extensive. The Bayou is navigable for vessels 
 drawing 13 ft. of water. 
 
 Here also are several beautiful public and private 
 buildings. 
 
 From Houston the Galveston, Houston and Hender 
 son R. R. runs S. E. in 50 miles to Galveston, the 
 largest city and commercial metropolis of Texas, situ 
 ated at the N. E. extremity of Galveston Island, at the 
 mouth of the bay of the same name. The city is laid 
 out with wide and straight streets, bordered by numer 
 ous flower gardens, and contained 35,000 inhabitants 
 in 1883. 
 
 The University of St. Mary (Roman Catholic) and 
 the Galveston Medical College are flourishing institu 
 tions. Beside the handsome churches, the public 
 buildings are beautiful and extensive. The Ursuline 
 Convent has a female academy connected with it. 
 
 The Island of Galveston is about 28 miles long and 
 1-J to 3^r wide, bordered by a smooth, hard beach, and 
 most all the streets in the city are lined with white and 
 red Oleanders. The harbor is the best in the State, 
 and the commerce of the city is very extensive, the 
 chief business being the shipment of cotton. 
 
 Texas was first settled by the French on the La- 
 vaca in 1685; admitted 1845; seceded February, 
 1861; re-admitted 1868. 
 
103 
 
 Area, 265,780 square miles ; extreme length, 825 
 square miles ; extreme breadth, 740 miles ; coast line, 
 400 miles. 
 
 Temperature at Galveston: winter, 53 to 63; 
 summer, 82 to 84. 
 
 Eainfall at Fort Brown, 33 inches. Brownsville, 
 El Paso, Indianola and Galveston are ports of entry. 
 
 Number of farms, 174,184; average value per 
 acre, clear land, $8.98; woodland, $4. 
 
 Cotton most valuable crop. 
 
 Ranks first in cattle and cotton; second in sugar, 
 sheep, mules and horses. 
 
 Population 1,591,749, among which, 393,384 Ne 
 groes, 136 Chinese and 992 Indians. 
 
 U. S. Army and paupers excluded from voting. 
 
 Number of colleges, 10; school population, 295,- 
 344; school age, 8-14. 
 
 Bound for New Orleans in Louisiana; I arrived in 
 this latter place in a considerably short time after leav 
 ing the State of Texas. New Orleans, the chief city and 
 commercial metropolis of Louisiana, is situated on both 
 banks of the Mississippi river, 100 miles above its 
 mouth. The older portion of the city is built within a 
 great bend of the river, from which circumstance it de 
 rives its name, Crescent City. It is built on land 
 gently descending from the river toward a marshy tract 
 in the rear, and considerably below the level of the 
 river at high-water mark, which is prevented from 
 overflowing by a vast embankment of earth, called the 
 " Levee." This levee is 15 ft. wide and 14 ft. high, 
 
104 
 
 is constructed for a great distance along the river bank, 
 and forms a beautiful promenade. 
 
 New Orleans was settled in 1718, but abandoned 
 in consequence of overflows, storms and sickness 5 was 
 settled in 1723, held by the French till 1729, then by 
 the Spaniards till 1801 ; and by the French again till 
 1803, when with the province of Louisiana, it was 
 ceded to the United States. It was incorporated as a 
 city in 1804. The most memorable events in the his 
 tory of New Orleans are the rebellion against the ces 
 sion by France to Spain in 1763, the battle of January 
 8th, 1815, in which the British were defeated by An 
 drew Jackson, and the capture of the city by Admiral 
 Farragut on April 24th, 1862. In 1810, seven years 
 after its cession to the United States, the population of 
 New Orleans was 17,243, and according to the census 
 of 1880 it amounted to 216,140. In the value of its 
 exports and its entire foreign commerce, New. Orleans 
 ranks next to New York. Not unfrequently from 
 1,000 to 1,500 steamers and other vessels from all 
 parts of the world may be seen lying at the levee. 
 
 New Orleans is the chief cotton market of the 
 world; and besides cotton, it sends abroad sugar, rice, 
 tobacco, flour and pork in great quantities. 
 
 The manufactures of the city are not extensive. 
 
 New Orleans is not rich in architecture, but there 
 are a few noteworthy buildings, chief among these are: 
 the Custom House, the U. S. Branch Mint, the City 
 Hall, the Cathedral of St. Louis (Catholic), the Church 
 of St. John the Baptist, the Jewish Synagogue Temple 
 
105 
 
 Sinai, the St. Paul s, and the First Presbyterian 
 Church. 
 
 The University of Louisiana and the Straight Uni 
 versity (for colored people exclusively) are of a high 
 order. 
 
 Of charitable institutions New Orleans has an 
 abundance. 
 
 Chief among the pleasure grounds of the city is 
 Jackson Square, with the equestrian statue of General 
 Jackson. 
 
 The French market is the great " sight " of New 
 Orleans, and one of the most interesting spots in the 
 vicinity is Battle-Field, the scene of General Jackson s 
 great victory over the British, January 8, 1815. A 
 marble monument will commemorate this victory. A 
 National Cemetery occupies one of the corners of the 
 field. 
 
 Lake Ponchartrin, 5 miles N. of the city, is famous 
 for its fish and game. The swamps which lie between 
 the city and the lake are covered with a thick growth 
 of cypress and other trees. 
 
 Carrollton, in the suburbs, has many fine public 
 gardens and private residences. 
 
 Algiers, opposite New Orleans, has extensive dry- 
 docks and ship-yards. 
 
 An excursion to Baton Rouge, since 1881 capital 
 of Louisiana, was well worth undertaking. 
 
 The road to this place, " The Coast/ as it is 
 called, is lined with plantations. Every spot suscep 
 tible of cultivation is transformed into a beautiful 
 
106 
 
 garden, containing specimens of all those choice fruits 
 and flowers which flourish only in tropical climes. 
 
 Baton Eouge has 8,000 inhabitants, and is pleas 
 antly situated on the last bluff that is seen in descend 
 ing the Mississippi, and contains several public build 
 ings. 
 
 Proceeding on my excursion, I reached Knoxville, 
 in Mississippi, a small town, and afterwards Vicksburg, 
 situated on the Walnut Hills, which extends for about 
 two miles along the river, rising to the height of 500 
 feet, and displaying the finest scenery of the lower 
 Mississippi. It is a well built city of 11,814 inhabit 
 ants. The view of the city from the water is in the 
 highest degree picturesque. Vicksburg was founded 
 in 1836 by a planter named Vick, members of w r hose 
 family are still living there. As the chief commercial 
 market on this portion of the river, it has long been a 
 place of some note, but it is more widely known as the 
 scene of one of the most obstinate and decisive struggles 
 of the Civil War. After the loss successively of Co 
 lumbus, Memphis and New Orleans, the Confederates 
 made here their last and most desperate stand for the 
 control of the great river. The place was surrounded 
 by vast fortifications, the hills crowned with batteries, 
 and a large army under General Pemberton placed in 
 it as a garrison. Its capture by General Grant, after 
 a protracted siege, on the 4th of July, 1863, cut the 
 Confederacy in twain. Above Vicksburg, at the point 
 where Sherman made his entrance from the " Valley 
 of Death," is the largest national cemetery in the 
 
107 
 
 country, containing the remains of nearly 16,000 
 soldiers. 
 
 I extended my exploration to Jackson, the capital 
 of Mississippi. It is regularly built upon undulating 
 ground on the W. bank of Pearl Kiver, and has about 
 6,000 inhabitants. 
 
 There are several exceedingly fine State Institu 
 tions, the State library containing 15,000 volumes. 
 Jackson was captured by General Grant, on May the 
 14th, 1863, after a battle with General Johnston, in 
 which the Confederates were defeated and valuable 
 property destroyed. 
 
 On the road to New Orleans I stopped at Natchez, 
 built mostly upon a high bluff, 200 feet above the level 
 of the stream. This place was founded by d Iberville, 
 a Frenchman, in 1700, and is replete with historic as 
 sociations. Here once lived and flourished the noblest 
 tribe of Indians on the continent, and from that tribe it 
 takes its name. Their pathetic story is festooned with 
 the flowers of poetry and romance. Their ceremonies 
 and creed were not unlike those of the Fire-worship 
 pers of India. Their priests kept the fire continually 
 burning upon the altar in their temple of the Sun, and 
 the tradition is that they got the fire from heaven. 
 Just before the advent of the white man, it is said, the 
 fire accidently went out, and that was one reason why 
 they became disheartened in their struggle with the 
 pale-faces. The last remnant of the race were still 
 existing a few years ago in Texas. 
 
 Mississippi, or the Bayou State, whose name is of 
 
108 
 
 Indian origin, signifying, " Father of Waters," had its 
 first permanent settlement at Natchez, 1716 ; admitted, 
 1817; seceded, 1861; re-admitted, 1870. 
 
 Area: 46,810 square miles, extreme length, 332 
 miles; extreme breadth, 189 miles; mean breadth, 
 142 miles; gulf frontage, including irregularities and 
 islands, 287 miles; harbors at: Pascagoula, Biloxi, 
 Mississippi City and Shieldsborough. 
 
 Temperature at Vicksburg: Winter, 47 to 56; 
 Summer, 80 to 83. Rainfall at Natchez, 54 inches. 
 Number of farms, 101,772. Average value per acre: 
 clear land, $7.88; woodland, $3.78. 
 
 Forest area very large; pine, oak, chestnut, walnut 
 and magnolia trees grow on uplands and bluffs, and 
 long-leafed pine on islands and in sandy regions of 
 the South ; cotton lands mostly in Yazoo and Mississippi 
 bottoms. 
 
 Ranks second in cotton. 
 
 Population, inclusive 650,291 Negros, 51 Chinese, 
 1857 Indians, 1,131,597. Slaves, in 1860, 436,631. 
 
 Number of Colleges, 3; school population 444,131, 
 school age 5 to 21. Returned to New Orleans I began 
 with the preparation for the statistics of the Creole State. 
 
 Louisiana, named in honor of Louis XIV, King of 
 France, was first permanently settled by French, at New 
 Orleans in 171 8; admitted 1812; seceded January 1861; 
 re-admitted June 1868. 
 
 Area: 48,720 square miles: greatest length, east 
 and west, 300 miles; breadth, 240 miles; coast line, 
 1,256 miles. 
 
109 - 
 
 Temperature at New Orleans; Winter, 53 to 61; 
 Summer, 81 to 83. Rainfall 51 inches. 
 
 Number of Farms, 48,292. Average value per 
 acre, cleared land, $14.36; wood land $3.53. 57 per 
 cent, of laborers engaged in agriculture ; rural income, 
 per capita, $209. 
 
 Ranks first in sugar and molasses. Population, 
 939,946 including 483,655 Negroes, 489 Chinese and 
 848 Indians. Slaves in 1860, 331,726. 
 
 Sugar-cane first cultivated in the United States, near 
 New Orleans, 1751 and first Sugar-mill used 1758. 
 
 I did not succeed in obtaining data about the school 
 population. 
 
 Having procured my passport for the intended visit 
 of the West Indies, I took passage for Havana. Key 
 West was duly reached and a short stay made at this 
 rather picturesque place. Key West, the second largest 
 city in Florida, is situated upon an island of the same 
 name. It is of coral formation and has a shallow soil, 
 consisting of disintegrated coral, with a slight admix 
 ture of decayed vegetable matter. There are no 
 springs and the inhabitants (about 7,000) are dependent 
 on rain or distilled water. The natural growth is a 
 dense, stunted chaparral, in which various species of 
 cactus are a prominent feature. Tropical fruits are 
 cultivated to some extent, the chief varieties being 
 cocoanuts, bananas, pineapples, guavas, sapodillas and 
 a few oranges. 
 
 A portion of the population are Cubans and natives 
 of the Bahama Islands, and this place being the key to 
 
110 
 
 the best entrance to the Gulf of Mexico, is strongly 
 fortified and has a fine harbor. 
 
 Among the principal industries are sponging, turt- 
 ling, fishing and the manufactures of Cigars. The 
 principal work of defense is Fort Taylor. 
 
 The weather favorable, Havana is reached from 
 here in about 11 or 12 hours, where the traveler is 
 subjected to a very rigorous examination on the part 
 of the Duana (custom officers). The bay of Havana is 
 extremely beautiful. To the right, the Castle Morro 
 (the fortification of the bay) is a hilly range with many 
 forts, towers, bastions and many noteworthy curiosities 
 among which is the military prison, etc. On the left, 
 lies the old city of Havana, built almost to the water s 
 edge. The impression on entering the city at first is 
 not very favorable, but the traveler soon finds himself 
 in an attractive place, especially when visiting the 
 public gardens and promenades. The city of Havana 
 is of a very old date. Most of the public and a great 
 many private buildings are built in the Moorish style. 
 The commerce of the city is of colossal dimensions, and 
 the shipping from here to other West Indian islands 
 very large. During the winter months Havana is 
 thronged with visitors, especially Americans, who come 
 here to escape the northerly winds and inclemency of 
 the weather, or to restore broken health. The drives 
 in the vicinity are very beautiful. The old and brilli 
 ant edifice of the cathedral, with the ornamented in 
 terior and the precious gems, is worth visiting. 
 
 The principal industry is the manufacturing of 
 
Ill 
 
 cigars and cigarettes. In these factories over 20,000 
 people find employment. 
 
 The Governor s garden, in the suburbs, contains 
 beautiful specimens of palms and cocoanut trees and 
 other exotic plants and flowers. 
 
 The yellow fever hospital proves to be a very 
 beneficial institution, since this terrible scourge is rag 
 ing here almost the whole year through, and the Ob 
 servatory (meteorological) rather in an unfavorable 
 condition. On the other side of the Bay is Regla, a 
 small village, where, generally on Sundays, bull-fights 
 take place. 
 
 The wonderful cave of Matanzas and the lovely 
 Valley of Yumiri are accessible from the city in tw r o 
 and a half hours by rail, also several extensive sugar 
 plantations. 
 
 I did not make any other excursions on the Island 
 of Cuba, on account of the rather advanced period of 
 the year and the prevalence of tropical maladies, and 
 collecting all the possible data of this island I herewith 
 reproduce the same. 
 
 Cuba, a Spanish colony in the West Indies, has an 
 area of 43,220 square miles, and a population of 1,521,- 
 684. 50 per cent, of the inhabitants are blacks and 
 enfranchised slaves. The greatest length of the island 
 is 760 miles ; width varies from 20 to 135 miles j coast 
 line about 2,000 miles. Surface is broken by a moun 
 tain chain running through the center from east to 
 west ; average altitude of summit is between 5,000 and 
 6,000 feet. Pico de Turquino, 7,670 feet, is the high- 
 
112 
 
 est peak. There are over 260 rivers, all valueless for 
 navigation purposes, except the Cauto. Mineral springs 
 abound. 
 
 But little attention has been paid to the develop 
 ment of the mineral wealth. Gold was obtained by the 
 early colonists, but for two centuries comparatively 
 none has been found. There are extensive copper 
 mines, and coal is abundant. Copperas and alum have 
 also been obtained. 
 
 Rainfall at Havana : in the wet season, 27.8 
 inches ; dry season, 12,7 inches. Average tempera 
 ture : at Havana, 77 j at Santiago de Cuba, 80. 
 Yellow fever and earthquakes are frequent. 
 
 13 million acres of Cuban territory are uncleared 
 forests ; 7 million wild and uncultivated. Principal 
 woods grown and exported are mahogany, rosewood, 
 Cuban ebony and cedar. 
 
 Tobacco and sugar raising principal occupation of 
 the people. 
 
 Many sugar plantations comprise 10,000 acres 
 each. 
 
 Two crops of Indian corn grown per year ; rice, cot 
 ton, cocoa and indigo also produced 5 most tropical 
 fruits are abundant. Sugar product averages 520,000 
 tons per year. Total value of agricultural products 
 over 90 million dollars. United States receives 80 
 per cent, of Cuban sugar. No manufactures deserving 
 mention. 
 
 Roman Catholicism is the only religion tolerated. 
 Education compulsory; school attendants, 34,812. 
 
113 
 
 The government is administered by a Captain Gen 
 eral, appointed by the Spanish crown. 
 
 The island is now represented in the Spanish Cor 
 tes, Madrid. 
 
 Thirty-six hours ^after leaving Havana, the first 
 Mexican port (the proper seaport of the old capital of 
 Yucatan), Progreso, is reached. Twenty-two miles 
 distant from the latter is Merida, the capital of the 
 State of Yucatan, a beautiful and quaint old city of 
 about 55,000 inhabitants. The ride from Progreso 
 to the capital is very interesting, leading through a 
 laguna with brilliant aquatic and tropical plants and 
 admirably fine scenery. The city and all the sur 
 rounding country abound in numerous picturesque 
 ruins of great antiquity. Sixty-nine miles from the 
 city are the celebrated ruins of Uxmal, and at seventy- 
 five miles distant the famous cave of Sahachao, in the 
 village of Tekox. The climate of Merida is very 
 healthy, and deer shooting found in its neighborhood. 
 
 From Progreso the steamer proceeds to Frontera, 
 remaining there but a few hours to transfer passengers, 
 the mail and cargo, and then continues the route to 
 Vera Cruz, about 200 miles from Frontera. 
 
 Approaching Vera Cruz, the Peak of Orizaba, cov 
 ered with snow, is seen at a distance of 50 to 70 miles. 
 
 The old and historic city of Vera Cruz contains 
 about 16,000 inhabitants, and is the commercial me 
 tropolis of Mexico. 
 
 In all commercial and social circles in this city, 
 Spanish, English, German and French are freely spoken. 
 
114 
 
 There are many old churches and chapels, monas 
 teries and convents in Yera Cruz, and the tolling of 
 church bells often deafening. 
 
 The commercial establishments are massive, fine 
 structures, and the " Calle de la Indcpendencia" a 
 beautiful, long street, traversing the city. The bay of 
 Vera Cruz is almost of an inkish hue. The gloomy 
 looking fortification of the harbor, Fort Ullao ; is of a 
 very old date, and its subterranean, or rather sub- 
 aquarian, prisons are, no doubt, remnants of Spanish 
 inquisitory history. The partially rocky hills of the 
 fort extend to a great length. 
 
 The Great Mexican Railway connects Vera Cruz 
 with the City of Mexico, a distance of 260 miles. 
 
 This road has been justly considered one of the 
 most wonderful engineering enterprises ever accom 
 plished. Its construction occupied ten years, at a cost 
 of $27,000,000. A great part of the road extends over 
 the Sierra Nevada mountains, reaching at its highest 
 point of elevation, Boca del Monte, 8,310 feet. The 
 railroad trip is not only not tedious, though it takes 
 about 18 hours to make it, but wonderfully grand. 
 During one part of the trip the train rises 4,700 feet in 
 a distance of 25 miles. 
 
 The scenery cannot be imagined, as the country 
 through which it passes presents scenes of unparalleled 
 grandeur and beauty, and on the journey every variety 
 of climate is experienced, passing from the tropical 
 climate of Vera Cruz and the cold winds from the snow 
 peaks of the mountains, to the ever spring-like temper- 
 
_ 115 __ 
 
 ature of the City of Mexico, where s#d<Jen changes are 
 unknown, the thermometer seldom, if ever, varying 
 from 00 and 70 during the entire year. - 
 
 This perfect spring-like climate makes it especially 
 adapted to invalids. As the train advances over mag 
 nificent bridges and viaducts that span deep ravines 
 and beautiful valleys, or plunges through tunnels and 
 skirts the mountain side in great curves, it presents 
 views of the grandest and most picturesque scenery 
 of the world. 
 
 The principal cities on the road are Cordoba, a 
 town of about 10,000 inhabitants, noted for its coffee 
 plantations, where are located the principal workshops 
 on the road. 
 
 In passing Orizaba the scene is beyond description, 
 as the train curves around the Peak of Orizaba, which 
 is 15,800 ft. high, covered with snow and ice. This 
 peak supplies the City of Mexico and Vera Cruz with 
 ice. 
 
 In the vicinity of Vera Cruz is the famous resort 
 and rendez-vous of the elite, Medelin named after the 
 great conqueror s birthplace. 
 
 I arrived in the evening in the City of Mexico and 
 was greatly surprised to find the old home of Monte- 
 zuma s brilliantly lighted by electricity. 
 
 Early the next morning I paid the Representative 
 of the German Empire in Mexico, Mr. von Wecker- 
 Gottcr, my visit and to this gentleman as well as to the 
 German Consul, Mr. Kossidowsky, I am greatly indebted 
 for all the favors and kindnesses bestowed on me. 
 
116 
 
 The Minister von Wecker-Gotter was leaving 
 Mexico a short time.after my arrival, and before starting, 
 kindly accompanied me on my excursion from the 
 City of Mexico to Orizaba. From this latter place I 
 visited Atoyae, 29 miles distant, with an exceedingly 
 rich u Flora" and where I made valuable collections. 
 
 In Cordoba I had the pleasure to form the ac 
 quaintance of the famous botanist, Fink, and over 
 different detours, for instance, Huatusco, I proceeded 
 to Mirador. 
 
 Furnished with recommendations to the Governor 
 of Vera Cruz-Llave by the kindness of the Secretary 
 of the Interior, the Governor Senor Castillo received 
 me heartily in Orizaba. In Mirador I visited the ex 
 tensive Hacienda of Senor Sartorius, a German. 
 
 Though only a very short time in the City of Mexico, 
 I intended to explore the Republic in different directions 
 and then return to the city, to stay there for some time. 
 
 I commenced with Guadalupe, with the eld, note 
 worthy church of u Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe," 
 San Juan Teotihuacan, Toluca, the capital of the 
 State of Mexico, with 13,000 inhabitants, Cuantitlan 
 and the historic City of Queretaro, which was the 
 scene of the downfall and execution of the ill-fated 
 Emperor Maximilian in 1867. 
 
 The city has 50,000 population and contains many 
 important woolen mills, and is chiefly noticeable for its 
 numerous ecclesiastical and religious structures, among 
 the latter being the Franciscan Monastery, with its 
 noble gardens and grounds. 
 
117 
 
 Not far from this place and nearer from the City of 
 Mexico is Polatitlan and Tula, on the banks of the river 
 of the same name, famous as the ancient capital of the 
 Toltecs. 
 
 At a more distant excursion, I visited Guadalajara, 
 the capital of the State of Jalisco, with 93,875 in 
 habitants, a very important city, and Guanajuato with 
 rich silver mines in its vicinity. Not far from Lagos 
 there are also very productive mines. 
 
 Guanajuato is the capital of the State of Guanajuato, 
 has a population of 73,500 and important cotton 
 factories. In one of these latter is the greatest water- 
 wheel in the world. There are also rich mines of 
 silver in its neighborhood. 
 
 To Colima, the capital of the State of Colima, I 
 started from San Marcos and was greatly pleased to 
 witness the eruption of the volcano Colima, then active. 
 
 Once more in the City of Mexico, I enjoyed the 
 valuable acquaintance of the well-known botanist 
 Herera and intended to remain in the Metropolis, to 
 recuperate from the wearysome travels, etc. 
 
 This ancient and interesting capital has a population 
 of over 300,000, and was a scat of art, science and 
 commerce long before the Spanish conquerers reached 
 the shores of the New World. It is situated in the 
 centre of the great valley of Mexico, which measures 
 45 miles long and 31 miles wide. Its elevation above 
 the sea is 7,420 ft., which gives it a climate of remark 
 able uniformity, the range of the thermometer being 
 from 50 to 70 F. The rainy season begins early in 
 
118 
 
 June and continues until September, showers occurring 
 usually in the afternoons and nights. 
 
 The city is built on a part of the old bed of Lake 
 Texcoco, and tradition gives it a more romantic origin 
 than it ascribes to the founding of Rome. Science and 
 art have done much to make it a beautiful city, and 
 there seems to be a disposition on the part of the people 
 and the government to make their nation s capital com 
 pare favorably with the capitals of other countries. The 
 city is encircled by walls and entered by gates. The 
 residences are mostly of stone, 1 or 2 stories high, and 
 built around court-yards. The public edifices are 
 numerous and substantial. 
 
 Chief among the objects of interest is the Cathedral, 
 500 ft. in length, by 420 ft. in breadth, the largest 
 ecclesiastical edifice in the western hemisphere. It is 
 of mixed Gothic and Indian architecture, and is on the 
 site of the chief temple of the Aztecs. The walls are 
 gorgeously decorated, and the high -altar is a marvel of 
 magnificence. The dress on the statue of the Virgin 
 is incrusted with gems, the diamonds alone being worth 
 $3,000,000, it is claimed. The cathedral is on one side 
 of the Grand Plaza, the other sides being occupied by 
 the National Palace, comprising the government offices, 
 mint and prison, the National Museum, in which the 
 great Aztec Block of carved granite is shown, upon 
 which were sacrificed, it is said, 10,000 persons in one 
 year, and the Market Place. The Academy of Arts and 
 Mining, the University of Mexico, the Public Library, 
 containing 105,000 volumes, and the National Theatre, 
 
119 
 
 as well as numerous convents and churches are well 
 worth visiting. The Government s Pawnbroker shop is 
 a very useful and noteworthy institution. 
 
 Objects of great interest are found in the Botanical 
 garden and the 2 aqueducts. The city is noted indust 
 rially for its manufacture of gold and silver lace, and 
 of silversmiths work. 
 
 Riding horse-back is one of the great amusements, 
 and a ride along the canal, or over the hills to any of 
 the adjacent villages is found very interesting. 
 
 Music is found in all the parks every afternoon and 
 3 times in the week also in the evenings. 
 
 Besides the many places of special note in the city, 
 there are several interesting points within 2 or 3 miles 
 distance. 
 
 At a distance of 2 miles is the old historic Castle oi 
 Chapultepec, which has, at different times, been the 
 palatial residence of the Emperors Iturbide and Maxi 
 milian. The grand view from the tower of this old 
 castle is unexcelled. The castle is surrounded by a 
 dense park of ancient and immense trees, all draped in 
 heavy moss. One mile from Chapultepec is Tacubaya, 
 where are located some palatial country seats. 
 
 Other excursions were made to the volcano of Popo- 
 catapetl, 17,800 feet high, which is always covered 
 with snow, and which produces large amounts of very 
 fine sulphur ; also to the extensive silver mines of Real 
 del Monte and to the cities of Puebla and Jalapa, the 
 former, the capital of the State of Jalapa, with 78,000 
 inhabitants, numerous fine church and convent edifices 
 
120 
 
 and fortifications and the ancient Pyramid in its 
 vicinity. 
 
 Passing Meca-Meca on the journey to Morelia, the 
 capital of Michoacan with 25,000 inhabitants and some 
 commerce, the sacred mountain of the Aztecs comes in 
 view. 
 
 During my stay in the city of Mexico I was also favored 
 with the kindness of the Minister Senor Romero Rubio 
 of the Cabinet of President Gonzales, having previously 
 been introduced to the then Ex-President of Mexico, 
 Senor Porfirio Diaz, by the late Ex-President of the 
 United States, General Grant, at a banquet given in 
 honor of these two gentlemen by the Mayor of the city 
 of New Orleans. 
 
 My last trip to the coast was performed from 
 Michoacan to Manzanillo, where I procured passage on 
 one of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company s steamers 
 for San Fransisco. 
 
 The Mexican Republic forms the southwestern 
 boundary of the United States and has an area of 743,948 
 square miles, northern frontier, 1,400 miles, southern 
 frontier, 345 miles; sea coast, 6,086 miles. Number 
 of States, 27; Federal District, 1; Territories, 2; 
 Population about 11,000,000. The chief exports are: 
 Coffee, fruit, Brazil wood, silver ore, cattle hides and 
 silver and gold bullion and silver coin. 
 
 The prominent agricultural products are: Cotton, 
 Pulque (the juice of the Agave Magay, an Aloes), the 
 national beverage of the Mexicans, Sugar, Wheat and 
 Corn. 
 
121 
 
 The mountains contain precious metals, but little 
 attention is paid to the exploration of the bowels of the 
 earth. 
 
 Other statistics I could not obtain. 
 
 I arrived in San Francisco just in time to witness 
 the splendid procession of the North American Knights 
 of Templars, who were assembled there in convention. 
 
 Here I received the much welcomed invitation to 
 join the historic " Henry Villard" party en route for 
 the far u Northwest. " 7 
 
 I omit to specify the details of this journey, since 
 they had been minutely described by almost all the 
 leading newspapers on the continent, and continue to 
 relate my experiences in the distant Northwest in the 
 usual way. After a 60 hours sea voyage, I arrived in 
 Portland, Oregon, staying there only a very short time 
 and, with many of the invited guests, boarded the train 
 of the new constructed Northern Pacific Railroad, for 
 Deer Lodge, not far from Garrison, Montana, to witness 
 the formal opening of this extensive line and to return 
 to Portland, where the festivities took their brilliant 
 course. 
 
 Portland is the commercial metropolis of the Pacific 
 Northwest, and is situated on the Wilamette river, 12 
 miles above its confluence with the Columbia. Popu 
 lation, 40,000. 
 
 The city is handsome and has many fine public 
 and private buildings. 
 
 There are many manufacturing establishments, and 
 from every direction in the Pacific Northwest, railroads 
 
122 
 
 lead to Portland, making the city the grand terminus 
 of a system which will completely develop the entire 
 region. It lies in the heart of a great producing coun 
 try, which has no other outlet, and for which it must 
 serve as a receiver and distributor of exports and im 
 ports. 
 
 On my extravaganzas I visited Dalles, the second 
 important city in Oregon, though only 4,000 inhabit 
 ants containing, a very lively place, with many manu 
 factures. The water works are worth visiting. 
 
 Salem, the capital of the State, with only 3,000 
 population, is surrounded by a fertile prairie and situ 
 ated on the Willamette river. 
 
 The Willamette University, the State institutions 
 for the blind, the deaf and dumb, and the State Pen 
 itentiary are here located. 
 
 Tacoma, situated on Commencement Bay (Puget 
 Sound, Washington Territory), has many fine build 
 ings, public and private, and is the center of large 
 trade and manufacturing interests, as well as of an im 
 portant mining country. 
 
 This place is the N. terminus of the Northern 
 Pacific Railroad on Puget Sound, as well as of the 
 Cascade Division leading to valuable coal fields. 
 Pacific mail steamships come up to the wharves. 
 
 Washington Territory is traversed by the Cascade 
 and Coast Mountains, some of the peaks very high. 
 The highest among these is the Mount Ranier, 14,444 
 feet above the level of the sea, and belonging to the 
 Cascade Mountains. 
 
123 
 
 Seattle on the Puget Sound, situated on Elliot 
 Bay, is a very busy place, and is the seat of a uni 
 versity. 
 
 Port Townsend, W. of Townsend Bay, is the Port 
 of entry of the Puget Sound custom district. 
 
 After visiting Victoria, the capital of British Co 
 lumbia, situated in the southeastern part of Vancouver 
 Island, on Victoria Harbor, immediately off the Strait 
 of San Juan de Fuca, with 7,500 inhabitants, a large 
 number of extensive mercantile houses, manufacturing 
 establishments, several educational arid religious insti 
 tutions, and a garrison of British soldiers, I also pro 
 ceeded to Esquimault, 3 miles from Victoria, where 
 the headquarters of the English Pacific Squadron is, 
 and where there is usually a fleet of from 3 to 5 ships, 
 thus concluding my journeys in the far Northwest. 
 
 In Portland, where I was very well received, and 
 where several compatriots of distinction had honored 
 me with their acquaintance, I stayed about long enough 
 to get familiar with the different circumstances con 
 cerning the State, etc. 
 
 Oregon, whose name derives from the Spanish word 
 signifying, " Wild Thyme/ on account of the abund 
 ance of the herb found by early explorers, was dis 
 covered by Captain Gray, of Boston, 1792. Fur 
 Company s trading post at Astoria, 1811 ; organized 
 as a Territory, 1848 ; admitted, 1859. 
 
 Area: 69,030 square miles ; average length, 360 
 miles ; breadth, 260 miles ; coast line, 300 miles ; 
 Columbia river frontage, 300 miles. 
 
124 
 
 Temperature at Portland : winter, 38 to 46 ; 
 summer, 62 to 68. 
 
 Rainfall at Dalles, 22 inches, and at Fort Hoskins, 
 67 inches. 
 
 Portland, Astoria and Coos Bay are ports of entry. 
 
 Number of farms, 16,217 j about 25 million acres 
 arable land, and same of grazing land ; forest, 1 
 million acres. Average value per acre, cleared land, 
 $21.71 ; woodland, $4.50. 
 
 Wheat the staple ; noted for superiority of its 
 flour. 
 
 Cattle raising ranks second only to agriculture; 
 wool is of fine quality. Extremely rich in minerals ; 
 gold found in Jackson, Josephine, Baker and Grant 
 counties; copper in Josephine, Douglas and Jackson 
 counties ; iron-ore throughout the State ; coal along 
 Coast Range. Principal exports are wheat, flour, lum 
 ber and canned salmon. Over 10 million feet of lum 
 ber cut annually. 
 
 Population, 174,768, including 487 negroes, 9,510 
 Chinese and 1,694 Indians. 
 
 U. S. Army and Chinese excluded from voting. 
 
 Number of colleges, 7 ; school population, 65,216 ; 
 school age, 4-20. 
 
 Resuming my journey on the Northern Pacific 
 R.R., I arrived at Helena, the capital of the Territory of 
 Montana, with a population of 8,000, where all routes of 
 transportation converge. The public buildings and 
 private residences are of a character to attract the eye 
 of the stranger. The city is the center of important 
 
125 
 
 manufacturing interests, as well as of trade and com 
 merce. Helena is situated in the very heart of a min 
 eral region, unsurpassed either in Montana or else 
 where for the number and richness of its gold and 
 silver bearing lodes, there being within 25 miles over 
 3,000 quartz lodes which have been claimed. The 
 Drum-Lummon mine has recently been sold for 1J 
 million dollars. Besides the gold and silver lodes, 
 veins of galena, copper and iron are found in great 
 numbers. Among the attractions of Helena are the 
 noted Hot Springs, situated in a romantic glen, 4 miles 
 W. of the town. The temperature of the water varies 
 from 110 to 190 F. Eighteen miles N. of Helena is 
 the great mountain-gate through which the waters of 
 the Missouri plunge between walls 300 ft. w r ide and 
 1,000 ft. high. There are many cataracts, cascades, 
 etc., around Helena, and it is almost impossible to de 
 scribe them. 
 
 Revisiting Garrison, the northern terminus of the 
 Utah and Northern Branch of the Union Pacific Rail 
 road, thence passing through the Deer Lodge Valley, 
 which spreads for a distance of 60 miles and a width 
 of from 5 to 10 miles, and where there are found lofty 
 peaks, beautiful mountain lakes, glittering cascades, 
 mineral springs, and the Great Geyser Cone, which 
 gives name to the river and valley, the road leads to 
 Deer Lodge, a small place, with 1,500 inhabitants, 11 
 miles south from Garrison, and Butte City, 52 miles S. 
 E. from Deer Lodge, with 9,000 inhabitants, both im 
 portant mining centers on the Utah and Northern Railroad. 
 
126 
 
 Missoula, a small but enterprising town, near the 
 junction of the Hell Gate and Bitter Root rivers, has a 
 noble outlook from the broad, high plateau. Bitter 
 Root Valley is very picturesque, and the military post 
 of Fort Missoula is 4 miles S. Following the Jocko 
 river, the road traverses the Flathead Reservation. 
 Here is Flathead Lake, wherein the Pend d Oreille 
 river takes its rise and winds for hundreds of miles 
 through deep gorges and beautiful valleys, before dis 
 charging its waters into Lake Pend d Oreille. About 
 40 miles from Flathead Lake, near St. Ignatius s Mis 
 sion, are the Two Sisters cascades, of great beauty, 
 which leap down from opposite walls of a great amphi 
 theater, scooped out of the mountains, a sheer fall of 
 2,000 ft. They unite after their descent, and pass on 
 as a single stream. The railroad now follows the 
 charming valley of Clark s Fork of the Columbia 
 river. 
 
 Heron is at the junction of the Idaho and Rocky 
 Mountain Division, and there are railroad shops at this 
 point. The road skirts Clark s Fork of the Columbia 
 till it reaches the large opening in the river 45 miles 
 long and from 3 to 15 miles in width, known as Lake 
 Pend d Oreille, whose beauty has made it notable. At 
 Sand Point the road crosses one end of the lake. 
 
 Rathdrum, in Idaho, is a small town, which has re 
 cently come into notice as the main point of approach 
 to the Coeur d Alene mines in the Coeur d Alene moun 
 tains. Some extraordinarily rich " Finds" are said to 
 have been made. 
 
127 
 
 Other excursions in the Territory brought me to 
 Lewiston, Mount Idaho, Farmington and Louisville, 
 small places with nothing of interest, and from here I 
 returned to Butte City, where I expected to get all in 
 formation regarding this Territory. 
 
 Idaho had already a white population previous to 
 1850, mainly trappers, prospectors and missionaries ; 
 the permanent settlement hegan with the discovery of 
 gold in 1860 ; organized as a Territory, 1863. 
 
 Area : 84,800 square miles, length in W., 485 
 miles, and on Wyoming boundary, 140 miles ; width, 
 45 miles in N. and nearly 300 miles in S. Drainage 
 mainly by Salmon and Snake rivers and their tribu 
 taries. 
 
 Temperature at Boise City : winter, 30 to 40 ; 
 summer, 68 to 75. 
 
 Florence and Silver City are flourishing mining 
 towns. 
 
 Extreme north well timbered and much fertile 
 land ; extreme southeast populated almost entirely by 
 Mormons, chiefly farmers. 
 
 Cash value per acre of corn in 1883, $18; wheat, 
 $13.77; rye, $11.79; oats, $21.31; barley, $21.30; 
 potatoes, $73.44 ; hay, $10.40. 
 
 Most of the gold is found in Idaho, Boise and Al- 
 turas Counties. Silver in Owyhee County, some of 
 the mines being very rich. Coal in the vicinity of 
 Boise City. 
 
 Manufactures, chiefly production of flour and lum 
 ber and smelting of ores. 
 
128 
 
 Population, 32,610, inclusive 53 colored, 3,379 
 Chinese, and 165 Indians. 
 
 School population, 9,650 ; school age, 5 to 21. 
 
 Starting per Utah Northern Railroad, Ogden, in 
 the Territory of Utah, was reached. This is a flour 
 ishing city of 6,000 inhabitants, and situated on a high 
 mountain environed plateau. It is remarkably well 
 built, and contains many fine buildings, among which 
 is the Mormon Tabernacle. 
 
 Ogden is the junction between the Union Pacific 
 and Central Pacific Railways, and of the Utah Cen 
 tral R. R., which extends to Salt Lake City and the 
 Utah and Northern Division of the Union Pacific R. R. 
 The machine and repair shops of the Central Pacific 
 R. R. are located here. 
 
 Its streets are broad, with running streams of water 
 in nearly all of them. 
 
 The country between Ogden and Salt Lake City is 
 thickly settled, several Mormon villages have to be 
 passed, with nothing particularly characteristic, except 
 the co-operative stores, with an open eye and the 
 legend, u Holiness to the Lord," printed over the door 
 ways. 
 
 Salt Lake City, the capital of Utah Territory, is 
 situated at the W. base of a spur of the Wahsatch 
 Mountains, about 12 miles from the S. E. extremity of 
 the Great Salt Lake. It lies in a great valley, ex 
 tending close up to the base of the mountains 5 the gray 
 and rugged mountain peaks, covered with perpetual 
 snow, rising in the distance. The streets of the city 
 
129 
 
 are 128 feet wide. Shade trees and ditches filled with 
 running water line both sides of every street. The 
 dwellings and business structures are built principally 
 of sun-dried bricks (adobe), but the newly built are of a 
 modern pattern. The Great Tabernacle, of wood, ex 
 cept the 46 sandstone pillars supporting the immense 
 dome-like roof, is oval in shape, inside and out, and 
 will seat 15,000 persons, its organ is one of the 
 largest in America. 
 
 The Temple, E. of the Tabernacle, in the course 
 f erection when I was there, was estimated to cost 10 
 millions of dollars. Brigham s Block, enclosed by a 
 high stone wall, contains the Tithing House, the Bee 
 hive House and the Lion House, the Assembly Eooms, 
 the office of the Mormon newspaper, and various other 
 offices, shops, dwellings, etc. Here was the residence 
 of the late Brigham Young, and 18 or 20 of his wives 
 lived in the Beehive and the Lion House. The hand 
 some house, nearly opposite, supposed to belong to the 
 prophet s favorite wife, and formerly known as 
 Amelia Palace, is now known as the Gardo House. 
 
 In the Museum may be seen specimen ores from 
 the mines, Indian relics, various products of Mormon 
 industry and other curiosos. 
 
 Among the educational institutions are the Desert 
 University, Hammond Hall, Collegiate Institute and 
 St. Mary s Academy. 
 
 Fort Douglas, 2 miles E. of the city, overlooking 
 the same, is garrisoned by a full regiment. 
 
 The Great Salt Lake is reached via Utah & Nevada 
 
 9 
 
130 
 
 R. K. to Lake Point, and is one of the greatest natural 
 curiosities of the West. It is 75 miles long and about 
 30 broad, is 4,200 feet above the sea, and contains six 
 islands, of which Church Island is the largest. Several 
 rivers flow into it, but it has no outlet. The water is 
 shallow, the depth in many extensive parts being not 
 more than two or three feet. Its water is transparent, 
 but exceedingly salty and very buoyant 5 a man may 
 float in it at full length upon his back, having his head 
 and neck, his legs to the knee, and both arms to the 
 elbow entirely out of the water. If he assumes a sitting 
 posture, with the arms extended, his shoulders will rise 
 above the water. Swimming, however, is difficult 
 from the tendency of the lower extremeties to rise 
 above the surface, and the brine is so strong that it 
 cannot be swallowed without danger of strangulation, 
 while a particle of it in the eye causes intense pain. A 
 bath in it is refreshing and invigorating, though the 
 body requires to be washed afterward in fresh 
 water. 
 
 The Ontario mine, near Park City, and the Horn 
 silver mine near Frisco, with smelting works of great 
 dimensions, are noteworthy. 
 
 In the following, the reproductions of authentic 
 statistic tables are given. 
 
 Utah was settled by Mormons under the leader 
 ship of Brigham Young, at Salt Lake, 1847, and the 
 Territorial government formed in 1850. 
 
 Area, 84,900 square miles ; average length, 350 
 miles 5 breadth, 260 miles. Largest rivers ; Grand and 
 
131 
 
 Green, together with the Colorado, which they unite to 
 form. 
 
 Temperature at Salt Lake City: winter, 29 to 40; 
 summer, 69 to 77; rainfall, 24 inches. 
 
 Number of farms, 9,452 ; land under cultivation, over 
 400,000 acres; value of farm products, $10,000,000. 
 Valleys of the Cache, Salt Lake, Jordan, Sevier and 
 Rio Virgin are irrigable, and produce fine crops of ce 
 reals and vegetables, Annual income from stock rais 
 ing, about $2,000,000, though grazing interest not so 
 important as in neighboring States and Territories. 
 
 Gold, copper and silver found in Wahsatch Moun 
 tains, the metal found being mostly silver. Gold pro 
 duction in 1882, $190,000; silver, $6,800,000. 
 
 Principal source of coal supply, in the valley of 
 Weber river. 
 
 Ranks third in silver. 
 
 Population, including 232 negroes, 501 Chinese and 
 807 Indians, 143,963. 
 
 School population, 43,303; school age 6 to 18; 
 number of colleges, 1. 
 
 Twenty-five miles from Ogden is Corinne, the 
 largest Gentile town in Utah, having a large trade 
 with the mining regions of eastern Idaho and Montana. 
 Beyond Corinne the train winds among the Promontory 
 Mountains, and skirts the N. shore of the Great Salt 
 Lake, while the Mormon city lies near the S. end of it. 
 Promontory Point is interesting as the spot where the 
 two companies building the Pacific Railroad joined 
 their tracks on May 10, 1869. 
 
132 
 
 The last tie was made of California laurel trimmed 
 with silver, and the last four spikes were of solid silver 
 and gold. Beyond this the road enters upon an ex 
 tended plateau, about 60 miles long and of the same 
 width, known as the Great American Desert. Its 
 whole surface is covered with a sapless weed five or 
 six inches high, and never grows any green thing that 
 could sustain animal life. The only living things found 
 upon it are lizards and jackass-rabbits, and the only 
 landscape feature is dry, brown and bare moun 
 tains. The earth is alkaline and fine, and is whirled 
 up by the least wind in blinding clouds of dust. Rivers 
 disappear in it, and it yields no other vegetation than 
 the pallid Artemesia, or sage-brush. 
 
 At Humboldt Wells, farther on the road, are 30 
 springs in a low basin, some of which have been 
 sounded to a depth of 1,700 feet without revealing a 
 bottom, and it is supposed that the whole series form 
 the outlets of a subterranean lake. 
 
 In a distance of 57 miles is Elko, with the State 
 University of the State of Nevada, founded in 1875, 
 and 1,200 inhabitants. Several important mining dis 
 tricts are tributary to Elko, and secure it a large trade. 
 Winnemucca is another prosperous town with a large 
 mining trade, 141 miles from Elko, and Humboldt, 
 still farther on, affords a grateful if momemtary relief 
 to the now wearied eye of the traveler. The desert 
 extends from Humboldt in every direction, a pallid, 
 lifeless waste, that gives emphasis to the word desola 
 tion; mountains break the level, and from the foot 
 
133 
 
 to the crest they are devoid of vegetation or other 
 color than a maroon or leaden gray; the earth is loose 
 and sandy ; but here at Humboldt, irrigation compelled 
 the soil to yield flowers, grass, fruit and shrubbery. 
 
 At Wadsworth the ascent of the Sierra Nevada is 
 begun. The wearying sight of plains covered with 
 alkali and sage-brush is exchanged for picturesque 
 views of mountain slopes adorned with branching pine 
 trees, and diversified with foaming torrents. 
 
 The ascent soon becomes so steep that two locomo 
 tives are required to draw the train. At short inter 
 vals there are strong wooden snow-sheds, erected to 
 guard the line against destruction by snow-slides. These 
 sheds, which are very much like tunnels, interrupt the 
 view of some of the most romantic scenery on the 
 line. 
 
 Reno, a busy town of 4,000 inhabitants, is situated 
 on the Truckee river about five miles from the base of 
 the Sierra. It has an immense trade with the mining 
 districts, is in the heart of an agricultural and grazing 
 valley, and contains the grounds of the State Agricul 
 tural Society, a Young ladies seminary and several 
 factories. 
 
 From Reno the Virginia and Truckee R. R. runs 
 to Carson and Virginia City, in the great Nevada min 
 ing region. Carson is the capital of Nevada and is 
 a thriving city of 4,500 inhabitants, containing the 
 Capitol, the U. S. Mint and fine residences. 
 
 In the court-yard of the prison are shown footprints 
 of human beings, birds and other animals on the sand- 
 
134 
 
 stones (supposed to belong to the geological tertiary 
 period). 
 
 From Carson 15 miles distant, and reached by 
 stage, is the lovely Lake Tahoe, 35 miles long and 15 
 miles wide, 6,000 ft. above the sea, and surrounded by 
 snow-capped mountain peaks, with marvellously clear 
 water, whose depth has been sounded to 1,600 ft. 
 
 21 miles beyond Carson is Virginia City, com 
 pletely environed by mountains, and containing 3,000 
 inhabitants, about one-fifth of whom are usually under 
 ground. What is more surprising to the stranger is 
 the proportions of the constant rushing crowd on the 
 principal thoroughfare, and the cosmopolitan character 
 of its elements. Piute and Washoe Indians, in pic 
 turesque rags, Chinamen in blue and black blouses, 
 brawny Cornishmen, vehement Mexicans and many 
 other people from far apart countries, mingle and surge 
 along in the stream. Virginia City stands directly 
 over the famous Comstock lode, and near by are the 
 celebrated Big Bonanza mines, said to have been a 
 few years ago the richest in the world. There are 
 many more mines in the vicinity. 
 
 By stage from the Lake to Tahoe City, across the 
 Lake, and thence to Truckee, the first important station 
 in California, perched high up amid the Sierras, is 
 reached. 
 
 Nevada, " The Sage Hen State," whose name 
 derives from the Spanish, signifying " Snow Covered," 
 had its first white settlements in Washoe and Carson 
 Valleys, 1848; organized as a Territory from Utah, 
 
135 
 
 1861; admitted, 1864. Area, 110,700 square miles; 
 extreme length, 485 miles, length western boundary, 
 210 miles; extreme breadth, 310 miles. Humboldt is 
 the longest river, its valley extending east and west, 
 determined course of Central Pacific. 
 
 Temperature at Winnemucca, winter, 30 to 38, 
 summer, 66 to 73. 
 
 Waters of rivers usually fresh and abound in fish. 
 Number of farms, 1,404, many valleys easily cultivated, 
 and crop yield good. Mineral resources of enormous 
 value. Comstock lode, already mentioned, supposed to 
 be the richest silver mine in the world ; Eureka, one of 
 the most productive. Amount of gold produced in 
 1882, $2,000,000; silver, $6,750,000. Eich lead and 
 copper ores; also zinc, platinum, tin and nickel have 
 been found. Extensive deposits of borax in Churchill 
 and Esmeralda counties. 
 
 Ranks second in gold and fourth in silver. Popu 
 lation, 62,266, including 488 Colored, 5,416 Chinese and 
 2,803 Indians. 
 
 Number of Colleges, 1; school population, 10,483; 
 school age, 6 to 18. 
 
 From Truckee, an excursion was made to Donner 
 Lake, embosomed in the lap of towering hills and to 
 Summit, situated on the line. Summit is the highest 
 point on the Central Pacific road, 7,042 ft., and the 
 scenery is indescribably beautiful and impressive. 
 From Summit to Sacramento is a distance of 106 miles, 
 and between these places the descent from that height 
 to 56 ft. above the level of the sea has to be made. 
 
136 
 
 Cape Horn and Colfax passed, and the train runs 
 right through to the capital of California, Sacramento, 
 the third city of the State in size, having a population 
 of over 23,000, and second in commercial importance. 
 It is built on an extensive plain on the E. bank of the 
 Sacramento river, immediately S. of the mouth of the 
 American river. 
 
 The city is very attractive, and of important public 
 buildings there is only the State Capitol, one of the finest 
 structures in the United States. The State Library in 
 the capitol has over 35,000 volumes and the Sacramento 
 Library about 15,000. The State Agricultural Society 
 has a commodious and one of the finest race courses in 
 the world. The Crocker Art Gallery is noteworthy, 
 and is a present of the wife of Mr. S. B. Crocker. 
 The through train from here to San Francisco pursues 
 a very pleasant route, being for the most part through 
 the valleys of the Sacramento and San Joaquin. 
 Benicia, 57 miles from Sacramento, situated on the N. 
 side of the Straits of Carquinez, contains the large 
 depot and machine shops of the Pacific Mail Steamship 
 Co., the United States Arsenal, and several noted 
 educational institutions. 
 
 The train crosses the Straits on a mammoth ferry 
 boat, and in 27 miles reaches Oakland, a beautiful city 
 of 35,000 inhabitants, situated on the E. shore of San 
 Francisco Bay, nearly opposite San Francisco, of which 
 it is practically a suburb. Oakland is luxuriantly 
 shaded, is remarkably well built, and has a delightful 
 climate, At Berkeley, 4 miles N., is the State Univer- 
 
137 
 
 sity, which is open to both sexes, and whose tuition is 
 free. At Oakland Point, where the railroad pier of the 
 Company extends 2J miles into the Bay, the ferry-boat 
 conveys the traveler to San Francisco, 3 miles distant. 
 
 As I intended to return to San Francisco, I only 
 stayed there a very short time and procured passage 
 for Hawai (Sandwich Islands), a regular line of steamers 
 run between San Francisco and Honolulu. Honolulu, 
 the capital of the Kingdom of Hawai, is situated on 
 the island of Oahu, one of the group of the fifteen 
 islands of which this Kingdom of Oceania consists. 
 
 Population, about 7,000, and with the exception of 
 the botanical garden, laid out by the well known 
 botanist Hildebrandt, and the Hospital for persons 
 afflicted with Leprosy, situated in the suburb, Kakuato, 
 has no other attractive points, but the excursions to the 
 great volcanos are worth making. On one of these 
 explorations I ascended the volcano Mauna-loa, erupt 
 ing only every 5 or 6 years, but having for a neighbor 
 the Kila-uea, 4,000 ft. high and in constant activity. 
 The Mauna-loa is one of the highest valcanos. 
 
 Within the radius of the Kila-uea are two burning 
 lakes: the Plali-mau-mau and the New Lake. 
 
 The circumference of the crater of this volcano 
 measures 3^ miles. 
 
 Mauna-Kia is an isolated volcano and Hale-Kale, 
 whose crater has a circumference of 35 miles, is un 
 doubtedly the greatest crater of any volcano in the 
 world. This volcano lies on the island of Maui, on 
 which there is the most extensive sugar-plantation of 
 
138 
 
 the Sandwich Islands, Spreckelville, the property of 
 the well known Mr. Spreckel from California, and where 
 I was well received. 
 
 As the communication between these islands is 
 very difficult, I was only able to visit 4 of the inhabited 
 islands and tried to get every possible information con 
 cerning them. 
 
 My explorations lasted fully two months, and I was 
 anxious to return to the United States viz. San Fran 
 cisco. 
 
 Hawai, a Kingdom of Oceania, consists of a group 
 of 15 islands of which 8 are inhabited. The Govern 
 ment is a limited monarchy. 
 
 Hawai is the largest island. 
 
 Area of the islands, 6,667 square miles. 
 
 At the last census, the population numbered 57,985, 
 viz., 44,088 Natives, 5,916 Chinese, 4,651 white people, 
 of whom 1,276 were Americans, 883 English, 272 Ger 
 mans, 436 Portuguese, 81 French, and half-cast 3,420. 
 
 To a great extent the islands are mountainous, and 
 there are numerous volcanoes, several of which are 
 active. 
 
 The soil is exceedingly fertile and productive. 
 Chief products, sugar and rice; but coffee, hides, bone, 
 whale oil and wool -are exported in considerable quan 
 tities. Value of exports in 1883, $8,121,200; imports, 
 $5,624,240. 
 
 The islands of Hawai and Maui are provided with 
 telegraphs and have about 32 miles of railway. Al 
 most every house in Honolulu has its telephone. 
 
139 
 
 There are numerous schools in the islands; the an 
 nual sum devoted to public instruction is $95,850. 
 The King is a member of the Church of England; but 
 all forms of religion are permitted and protected. 
 
 Landing in the Bay of San Francisco and resting 
 myself from the tedious travels in the Sandwich islands, 
 I proceeded to the State of Missouri, and direct to its 
 greatest and most important city, St. Louis. 
 
 California derives its name from the Spanish word, 
 signifying, "Hot furnace." 
 
 First settlement by Spaniards at San Diego, 1768, 
 admitted 1850. 
 
 Area, 158,360 square miles, the second largest 
 State; extreme length, 770 miles; extreme breadth, 
 330 miles ; least breadth, 150 miles; coast line over 700 
 miles; San Francisco Bay, best harbor on western coast. 
 
 Temperature at San Francisco: winter, 50 to 
 55, summer, 58 to 69, Rainfall, Sacramento, 20 
 inches. 
 
 San Francisco, metropolis and only port of entry. 
 Regular line of steamers to Australia, Panama, Mexico, 
 China and Japan. 
 
 The U. S. Navy Yard is at San Pablo Bay. Num 
 ber of farms, 35,934, average value per acre, cleared 
 land, $27.16; woodland, $8.55. 
 
 One of the richest agricultural tracts in the Union; 
 rich soil and favorable climate, often insuring two crops 
 per year on same field ; wheat the most valuable crop. 
 Ranks very high as a fruit-growing State; fruits of 
 temperate climates, the grape region, North. 
 
140 
 
 Fine sheep-raising country, Cashmere goats have 
 been introduced and are doing well. 
 
 Kanks first in barley, grape culture, sheep, gold 
 and quicksilver. 
 
 Population, 864,694; with 6,018 Negroes, 75,132 
 Chinese, 86 Japanese, and 16,277 Indians. 
 
 Indians and Chinese excluded from voting. 
 
 School population, 216,330; school age, 5-17. 
 
 St. Louis is situated geographically almost in the 
 centre of the great valley of the Mississippi, or basin of 
 the continent, on the W. bank of the Mississippi river, 
 20 miles below the entrance of the Missouri, about 175 
 miles above the mouth of the Ohio, and 1,170 miles 
 above New Orleans, in lat. 38 37 N. and Ion. 90 15 
 W. It is built on three terraces. The corporate 
 limits extend 11 miles along the river and about 3 
 miles back from it, embracing an area of nearly 21 
 square miles. 
 
 In 1762 a grant was made by the Governor General 
 of Louisiana, then a French province, to Pierre Liguest 
 Laclede and his partners, comprising the "Louisiana 
 Fur Company" to establish trading-posts on the Missis 
 sippi; and on February 15, 1764, the principal one 
 was established where the city now stands, and named 
 St. Louis. In 1803 all the territory then known as 
 Louisiana was ceded to the United States. In 1812 
 that portion lying N. of the 33d degree of latitude was 
 organized as Missouri Territory. In 1822 St. Louis 
 was incorporated as a city. The first census was taken 
 in 1764, and the population was then 120. According 
 
141 
 
 to the Census of 1880 it was 350,522. The commerce 
 of St. Louis, as the natural commercial entrepot of the 
 vast Mississippi valley, is immense ; the chief articles 
 of receipt and shipment being breadstuffs, live-stock, 
 provisions, cotton, lead (from the Missouri mines), hay, 
 salt, wool, hides and pelts, lumber, tobacco, and gro 
 ceries, but the prosperity of the city is chiefly due to 
 its manufactures. 
 
 The city is mostly regularly laid out. Fourth and 
 Olive streets contain the leading stores for retailing, 
 and are fashionable promenades. The finest building 
 in the city is the Court House. The Four Courts with 
 the famous jail, semicircular in form and so con 
 structed that all the cells are under the observation of 
 one single jailer at once ; the New Custom House with 
 the Post-Office, the Chamber of Commerce, the Equita 
 ble Life Insurance Building, the U. S. Arsenal, in the 
 extreme S. of the city and the Masonic Temple, are mag 
 nificent structures. Of churches, the Cathedral 
 (Catholic), Christ Church, the First Presbyterian 
 Church, the Jewish Temple, and the Pilgrim Congre 
 gational Church are the prominent. The Mercantile 
 Library numbers 50,000 volumes, and contains paint 
 ings, coins, statuary and a sculptured slab from the 
 ruins of Nineveh. The St. Louis University (Jesuit), 
 is the oldest educational institution in St. Louis. 
 Washington University embraces all the ranges of uni 
 versity studies except theological. Beside these, there 
 are a great many educational institutions, public and 
 private, and a number of charitable asylums, hospitals 
 
142 
 
 and such like institutions. Adjoining the Tower Grove 
 Park, embracing 277 acres and beautifully laid out is 
 Shaw s Garden, owned by Mr. Henry Shaw, who has 
 opened it to the public and intends it as a gift to the 
 city. The Garden contains 1 09 acres and is divided 
 in the " Herbaceous and Flower Garden," the "Fruti- 
 cetum," and the "Arboretum/ all of miraculous beauty 
 and grandeur. In the Fair Grounds of the St. Louis 
 Agricultural and Mechanical Association is one of the 
 best zoological gardens in America. 
 
 The Great St. Louis Bridge across the Mississippi, 
 is regarded as one of the greatest triumphs of American 
 engineering. The bridge is built in two stories, passes 
 over a viaduct of five arches, and the lower roadway 
 runs into a tunnel, 4,800 ft. long, passing under a 
 large part of the city. The total cost of bridge and 
 tunnel was over 10 millions of dollars. It was 
 designed by James B. Eads, begun in 1869, and com 
 pleted in 1874. 
 
 The City Water- Works, at BisselFs Point, on the 
 bank of the river, are worth seeing. 
 
 Having had the pleasure to meet Professor Potter, 
 the renowned Geologist, whom I had previously seen in 
 the Mining Academy of the City of Mexico, my ex 
 plorations in the most important iron regions, coal 
 mines and lime-stone quarries of this State and other 
 adjoining States were greatly facilitated, and to this 
 gentleman I owe my success in obtaining all the desired 
 informations, etc. 
 
 The next place visited was the "Queen City of the 
 
143 
 
 West/ 7 Cincinnati, the chief city of Ohio, situated on 
 the N. bank of the Ohio river, in lat. 39 6 N. and 
 Ion. 84 27 W. 
 
 Cincinnati is principally built upon two terraces, 
 the first 60 and the second 112 ft. above the river. 
 The central position of Cincinnatti has rendered it one 
 of the most important commercial places of the West; 
 but manufactures constitute its chief interest. Iron, 
 furniture, boots and shoes, beer and whisky, machinery 
 and steamboats, are leading items in the product; but 
 pork packing is one of the principal industries. 
 
 The finest building in the city is the New U. S. 
 Government Building, and the Masonic Temple, the 
 Exposition Buildings with the Music Hall, and the 
 Springer Music Hall, seating an auditorium of 5,000 
 persons and containing one of the largest organs in the 
 world, are worth being visited. The Emery Arcade is 
 said to be one of the finest and largest, and the Tyler- 
 Davidson Fountain, surrounded by groups of statuary, 
 is well worth seeing. 
 
 Among the Churches, the Roman Catholic St. 
 Peter s Cathedral in pure Grecian style, and its altar- 
 piece "St. Peter Delivered/ 7 by Murillo, one of the 
 chief glories of art in America, and the Hebrew Syna 
 gogue, opposite the Cathedral, as also the St. Paul s 
 Methodist are the most prominent. 
 
 The educational and charitable institutions of 
 Cincinnati are numerous and important, and of these 
 the University of Cincinnati, the School of Design, the 
 Law and Art School, St. Xavier s College (Jesuit), the 
 
144 
 
 Cincinnati Wesleyan and the Union Hebrew College, 
 the Lane Theological Seminary, the Miami Medical 
 College and the Medical College of Ohio, one of the 
 most famous in the West, the Chickering Classical and 
 Scientific Institute, the Woodward and the Hughes 
 High School, the Mechanics Institute, with 6,500 
 volumes, the Cincinnati Hospital and the Longview 
 Asylum for the Insane, are the most noteworthy. 
 
 More than a third of the residents of Cincinnati are 
 Germans or of German parentage. The greatest part 
 of them occupy the section of the city N. of the Miami 
 canal, which they have named "The Rhine." 
 
 The Great Arbeiter and Turner Halls are worth 
 visiting. 
 
 The Suspension Bridge over the Ohio, connecting 
 the city with Covington, Kentucky, is the pride of 
 Cincinnati. From tower to tower it is 1,057 ft. long; 
 the entire length is 2,252 ft. and its height over the 
 water 100 ft. 
 
 Well worth visiting are the United Rail Roads 
 Stock Yards and the Price Hill, the Lookout House, 
 Mount Auburn from whose summits, crowned by ex 
 tensive music gardens, splendid views of the city, the 
 river and the surrounding country are obtained. 
 
 Leaving Cincinnati for Louisville, Kentucky, by 
 rail the other route is on the river, per steamer the 
 city of Newport, connected with Covington by a bridge 
 over the river Licking, and containing 20,433 inhabi 
 tants, beautiful gardens and imposing shade-trees, was 
 first visited, and afterwards Covington. 
 
145 
 
 Covington is a city of 29,720 inhabitants, the largest 
 after Louisville and substantially a suburb of Cincin 
 nati, whose business-men have here many costly resid 
 ences. Except the Free Library, some educational 
 institutions and the catholic St. Elizabeth Hospital, 
 there are no other attractions in this place. 
 
 Louisville, the chief city of Kentucky, and one of 
 the most important in the country, is situated at the 
 Falls of the Ohio, where Beargrass Creek enters that 
 river. Its site is one of peculiar excellence. The 
 Falls are quite picturesque and can be seen from the 
 town. 
 
 The first settlement of Louisville was made by 13 
 families, who accompanied Colonel George Rogers 
 Clarke on his expedition down the Ohio in 1778. The 
 town was established in 1780, and called Louisville in 
 honor of Louis XVI. of France, whose troops were then 
 aiding the Americans in their struggle for independence. 
 It was incorporated as a city in 1 828, when its popula 
 tion was about 10,000. In 1880 it had about 124,000. 
 The trade of Louisville is immense. It is one of the 
 largest leaf-tobacco markets in the world, the sales of 
 this one article amounting to over $5,000,000 annually, 
 and it is rapidly becoming one of the most important 
 markets for live-stock in the country. Pork-packing 
 is extensively carried on, and the sugar curing of hams 
 is a special feature of the business. The annual pro 
 duction of iron foots up $5,000,000. Louisville is the 
 great distributing market for the fine whiskies made in 
 
 Kentucky. The manufacture of beer has also become 
 
 10 
 
146 
 
 a very important interest. Leather, cement, agricul 
 tural implements, furniture, and iron pipes for water 
 and gas mains, are the other leading manufactures. 
 The city is regularly laid out and has well paved streets. 
 
 The Court House, City Hall, the buildings of the 
 Southern Exposition and some churches and colleges 
 are of beautiful architectonic structures. 
 
 The Public Library, numbering over 35,000 volumes 
 and connected with a museum and the natural-history 
 department, containing also the celebrated Troost col 
 lection of minerals, one of the largest in America, are 
 worth visiting. Louisville, being the centre of one of 
 the finest fossiliferous regions in the world, there are 
 numerous private collections, containing many excellent 
 specimens elsewhere rare. 
 
 The University of Louisville is a flourishing insti 
 tution, the Kentucky School of Medicine and Hospital 
 College of Medicine, and the two High Schools, for 
 males and females, as also the Colored Normal School 
 are prosperous institutions of learning. 
 
 The State Blind School and many other charitable 
 Homes and Hospitals are in this city. 
 
 On Cave Hill Cemetery is the monument of George 
 D. Prentice, the poet, journalist and politician. 
 
 Opposite the W. end of Louisville is the finely- 
 situated and handsomely-built city of New Albany, 
 with 16,422 inhabitants and many pretty public and 
 private buildings. 
 
 J effersonville, another flourishing town on the 
 Indiana shore, lies opposite Louisville, and is connected 
 
147 
 
 with it by the great railroad-bridge across the Ohio, 
 5,219 ft. long. 
 
 Leaving Louisville for the world-wide known 
 Mammoth Cave, the train passes Bardstown Junction, 
 Lebanon Junction and Muinfordsville ; a pretty village 
 on the bank of Green River. This neighborhood was the 
 scene of numerous encounters between Generals Buell 
 and Bragg in the campaign of 1862. From Cave City 
 a stage runs to the famous Mammoth Cave. The cave, 
 \vhich is the largest known, extends about nine miles ; 
 and it is said that to visit the portions already explored 
 requires from 150 to 200 miles of travel. This vast 
 interior contains a succession of marvelous avenues, 
 chambers, domes, abysses, grottoes, lakes, rivers, 
 cataracts, etc. Two remarkable species of animal life 
 are found in the cave, in the form of an eyeless fish 
 and an eyeless craw-fish, nearly white in color. 
 Other animals known to exist in the cave are lizzards, 
 frogs, crickets, rats, bats, etc., besides ordinary fish 
 and craw-fish washed in from the neighboring Green 
 River. The atmosphere of the cave is pure and healthful j 
 the temperature which averages 59, is about the same 
 in winter and summer. It is a sheer impossibility to 
 describe all the curiosities of this wonderful cave. 
 
 I did not travel considerably in this State, and had 
 to collect Statistics, which I here reproduce. 
 
 Kentucky, the " Corn Cracker State," whose name 
 signifies "dark and bloody ground," was the ancient 
 hunting grounds of the Indians. 
 
 Earliest explorations made by John Finley and 
 
148 
 
 others, 1767; Daniel Boone established himself there, 
 1769; admitted as a State, 1792. 
 
 Area, 40,400 square miles; greatest length, 350 
 miles; greatest breadth, 178 miles; river frontage, 812 
 miles; navigable waters, 4,000 miles. 
 
 Temperature at Louisville : Winter, 34 to 44 ; 
 summer, 75 to 80. Rainfall at Springdale, 49 
 inches. 
 
 Frankfort is the capital, and has a population of 
 6,958. Lexington, the former capital, founded 1776, 
 16,656. 
 
 Louisville and Paducah are ports of entry. 
 
 Number of farms, 166,453; average value per 
 acre, cleared land, $18.86 ; wood land. $12.82. 
 
 Ranks high as an agricultural State, has a world 
 wide reputation for thoroughbred horses and cattle, 
 and is first in tobacco. 
 
 Population, 1,648,690 ind.; 271,451 negroes; 10 
 Chinese and 50 Indians. 
 
 Slaves in 1860, 225,483. 
 
 Colleges, 15 : School age, 6-20. 
 
 Returning from the Mammoth Cave over the same 
 road. I resumed my journey to Nashville, in the State 
 of Tennessee, which I here describe. 
 
 Nashville is the capital of Tennessee and the largest 
 city in the State in point of population (45,000), and is 
 situated on the S. bank of the Cumberland river, 200 
 miles above its junction with the Ohio. It is well built 
 and there are many imposing public and private build 
 ings, among which deserve mention: the Capitol, 
 
149 
 
 Vanclerbilt University, the Court House, State Peni 
 tentiary, University of Nashville, Fisk University, 
 Tennessee Central College, the State institutions for 
 the Blind and Insane, the latter 6 miles distant, and 
 several churches. 
 
 The Hermitage, the celebrated residence of Andrew 
 Jackson, is 12 miles E. of Nashville. 
 
 In November 1864, the Confederate General Hood, 
 having lost Atlanta, placed his army in Sherman s rear 
 and began an invasion of Tennessee. 
 
 After severe lighting with General Schofield on 
 November the 30th he advanced upon Nashville and 
 shut up General Thomas within its fortifications. For 
 two weeks little was done on either side. When 
 Thomas was fully ready, he suddenly sallied out on 
 Hood, and, in a terrible two day s battle, drove the 
 Confederates out of their entrenchments into headlong 
 flight. The Union cavalry pursued them, the infantry 
 following close behind, and the entire Confederate 
 Army, except the rear guard, which fought bravely to 
 the last, was broken into a rabble of demoralized fugi 
 tives, which at last escaped across the Tennessee. 
 For the first time in the war an army was destroyed 5 
 and General Sherman, who had been awaiting in At 
 lanta the issue of Hood s maneuver, then started on bis 
 famous march to the sea. 
 
 Later on, I returned to this State once more, and 
 now started for the East, the first place arrived at 
 being Cleveland, in the State of Ohio. 
 
 Cleveland, the second city in size and importance 
 
150 
 
 in Ohio, is situated on the S. shore of Lake Erie, at the 
 mouth of the Cuyahoga river. The greater portion of 
 the city stands on a gravelly plain, about 100 ft. above 
 the lake. The new Breakwater W. of the river s 
 mouth affords a safe harbor. 
 
 The city is tastefully laid out, the abundance of 
 shade trees, chiefly elms, have given it the title of the 
 "Forest City." The great stone viaduct which spans 
 the river valley between the two divisions of the city, 
 on a level with the plateau, is justly reckoned among 
 the triumphs of American engineering, it is 3,211 ft. 
 long and cost over $2,000,000. The population, in 
 1880, was 160,142. The commerce of the city is very 
 large, especially with Canada and the mining regions 
 of the Lake Superior. 
 
 The most important manufactures are of iron and 
 coal-oil 5 in the production of refined petroleum, Cleve 
 land is the first city in the world. Other important 
 products are sulphuric-acid, wooden-ware, agricultural 
 implements, marble and stone, railroad cars and white 
 lead. Pork-packing is also carried on to some extent. 
 
 Euclid Avenue is undoubtedly the handsomest 
 street of any city in the United States. 
 
 There are numerous fine public edifices and ele 
 gant private residences. 
 
 Of the 127 churches in the city, the most note 
 worthy are St. Paul s, the Old Stone Church, the 
 Second Presbyterian, the Catholic Cathedral, etc. Of 
 its educational institutions of which there are many, 
 I will only mention the Adelbert College, or Western 
 
151 
 
 Reserve University, the Case School of Applied 
 Science, the Medical Department of the Western Re 
 serve University, the Medical Department of the Uni 
 versity of Wooster, the Brooks School and the Public 
 Library, numbering 40,000 volumes. 
 
 The Marine, Charity, and Homoeopathic hospi 
 tals, the Hebrew Orphan Asylum and the City Infirm 
 ary are of great importance. 
 
 The Water-works of Cleveland near the lake are of 
 great dimensions and the West-side Reservoir a very 
 popular resort. 
 
 On Lake View Cemetery, containing 300 acres, 
 lie the remains of the late President James A. Gar- 
 field. 2^ acres on the highest point of the cemetery 
 are being prepared for a monument beneath which his 
 remains are to be placed. 
 
 Leaving Cleveland, the train passes the pretty 
 villages of Berea and Elyria, and in 30 miles 
 reaches Oberlin, noted as the seat of Oberlin College, 
 from which no person is excluded on account of sex or 
 color. This college, founded in 1834, combines man 
 ual labor with study, inculcates entire social equality 
 between whites and blacks, and has a prosperous 
 career. 
 
 The next important Station is Toledo, which within 
 a few years has developed from an inconsiderable vil 
 lage into a large and rapidly growing city. Its popu 
 lation numbers 65,000 and its commerce is very large. 
 Situated on the Maumee river, 4 miles from a broad 
 and beautiful bay, and 12 miles from Lake Erie, of 
 
152 
 
 which it is regarded as one of the ports, its manufact 
 ures are numerous and important, including car 
 factories, iron works, locomotive shops, furniture 
 factories, flour mills and breweries. 
 
 The commerce consists chiefly of the handling of 
 grain. It has large and handsome public buildings, 
 wide streets, several neat parks and costly water-works. 
 Toledo is the converging point of 19 railroad 
 lines. 
 
 Ohio, the "Buckeye State," has its name from the 
 Indian, signifying " Beautiful River." First perman 
 ent settlement at Marietta, 1788 5 admitted as a State, 
 1802. 
 
 Area, 41,060 square miles, greatest length east and 
 west, 225 miles ; extreme breadth, 200 miles ; Ohio 
 river frontage, 430 miles 5 lake frontage, 230 miles. 
 
 Temperature at Cleveland: winter, 27 to 38; 
 summer, 68 to 73. At Cincinnati : winter, 34 to 
 45; summer, 74 to 79. Rainfall at Cleveland, 38 
 inches. 
 
 Columbus, the capital of the State, is a great rail 
 road center, and has 51,647 inhabitants (estimated 
 now as over 75,000). There are many State institu 
 tions, several high-schools, medical colleges, and other 
 Academies, etc., in Columbus, and the State Capitol 
 considered to be one of the finest in the Union. 
 
 Near Dayton, in this State, is the greatest Soldiers 
 Home in America, with numerous public and private 
 buildings, a theater, and other places of resort for the 
 invalid soldiers. 
 
153 
 
 Number of farms, 247,189, of which 199,562 are 
 occupied by owners ; average value per acre, cleared 
 land, $47.53,- woodland, $41.37. 
 
 Dairy products are a source of great revenue. 
 Ranks first in agricultural implements and wool; sec 
 ond in petroleum, iron and steel. 
 
 Population, 3,198,062, incl. 79,900 colored, 109 
 Chinese and 130 Indians. 
 
 Number of Colleges, 35; school population, 1,081,- 
 321 ; school age, 6-21. 
 
 My next aim was the wonder of the world, "The 
 Falls of Niagara/ 7 and boarding a train for Buffalo, in 
 the State of New York, I arrived there soon, and began 
 with the usually first visited Goat Island, reached by a 
 bridge 360 ft. long, the bridge itself being an object of 
 interest, from its apparently dangerous position. 
 
 The view of the Rapids from the bridge is one of 
 the most impressive features of the Niagara scenery. 
 
 The river descends 52 ft. in a distance of f of a 
 mile by this inextricable turmoil of waters. Below the 
 bridge is "Chapin s Island." A short walk leads to 
 "Luna Island," a huge rock-mass between the Center 
 Fall and the American Fall, the width of this latter 
 being over 1,100 feet, and the precipice over which it 
 plunges is 164 ft. high. "Cave of the Winds" is a 
 spacious recess back of the Centre Fall. The "Horse 
 shoe Fall" is unsurpassingly grand and majestic. The 
 mighty cataract here measures 2,200 ft. across, with a 
 perpendicular plunge of 158 ft. 
 
 At the other end of Goat Island a series of beauti- 
 
154 
 
 ful bridges leads to the "Three Sisters," as ,3 small 
 islets, lying in the Rapids, are called. 
 
 These last named are rugged masses of rock, 
 covered with a profuse and tangled vegetation. Among 
 the many attractive points, which to describe, it is 
 almost an impossibility, "Grand Island " above "Navy 
 Island," deserves mention as the spot on which, in 
 1820, Major Mordecai M. Noah founded "Ararat," a 
 city of refuge for the Jews, in the vain hope of as- 
 scmblig there all the Hebrew population of the world. 
 
 The New Suspension Bridge, connecting with 
 Canada, is 1,268 ft. from tower to tower, and 190 ft. 
 above the river. The view of the falls arid of the 
 gorge below, from the bridge is admirably pretty. 
 "Table Rock," formerly an overhanging platform, is 
 still called so, though fallen long ago over the preci 
 pice. 
 
 The "Whirlpool," below the Falls, is occasioned by 
 a sharp bend in the river which is here contracted to 
 a width of 220 ft. 
 
 The appropriateness of the name Niagara (Indian : 
 "Thunder of waters"), is very evident here. 
 
 The Falls of Niagara are situated on the Niagara 
 River, about 22 miles from Lake Erie and 14 miles 
 from Lake Ontario. The river is the channel by 
 which all the waters of the 4 great upper lakes flow 
 toward the Gulf of the St. Lawrence, and has a total 
 descent of 333 ft., leaving Lake Ontario still 231 ft. 
 above the sea. 
 
 With feelings of admiration and astonishment I left 
 
155 
 
 this lovely and impressive spot the thunder of its tur 
 moil waters re-echoing in my ears and returned to the 
 city of Buffalo, the "Queen City of the Lakes." 
 
 Third in size of the cities in the State of New York, 
 it is situated at the mouth of Buffalo Creek and head 
 of Niagara River, at the E. end of Lake Erie. Its 
 harbor is the largest and finest on the lake and it is the 
 terminus of the Erie Canal, the New York Central, 
 the Erie, the New York, West Shore and Buffalo, the 
 Delaware, Lackawana and Western, and eight other 
 railroads. 
 
 The city has a water-front of about 5 miles, half 
 upon the lake and half upon Niagara River. Its com 
 merce is very large, its position at the foot of the great 
 chain of lakes makes it the entrepot for a large part of 
 the traffic between the East and the great Northwest. 
 The population, 1880, was 155,134. The lake navi 
 gation of the city is the most important element of 
 business; the manufactures are also large, the chiefest 
 being of iron, tin, brass, and copper-ware. Malting 
 and brewing, for which the climate is very favorable, 
 are extremely carried on. 
 
 Buffalo was first settled in 1801 ; it became a mili 
 tary post during the war of 1812, and was burned by a 
 force of Indians and British in 1814 ; and it was in 
 corporated as a city in 1832. Since the completion of 
 the Erie Canal in 1825 its growth has been very 
 rapid. 
 
 Buffalo is handsomely built, the prominent public 
 buildings are: the Custom House and Post Office, the 
 
156 
 
 State Arsenal, the State Armory, the Erie County 
 Penitentiary, the Court House and the City Hall. 
 
 The most notable churches are: the Episcopal, St. 
 Paul s Cathedral, and the Catholic St. Joseph s Cathe 
 dral. 
 
 The leading educational institutions include: the 
 Medical College of the University of Buffalo, the Jesuit 
 Canisius College and several female academies. 
 
 The Buffalo Historical Society, with a large library 
 and cabinets, and the Society of Natural Sciences, 
 with a very valuable collection of minerals, and a good 
 botanical and conchological cabinet, and a complete set 
 of Professor Ward s fossils casts, are located in the same 
 building. 
 
 The Grosvenor Library numbers 12,000 volumes, 
 and of the many charitable institutions, the State In 
 sane Asylum is one of the largest in the Union. 
 
 Of great curiosity are also the extensive canal 
 basins, the piers, the grain-elevators and some of the 
 iron works. 
 
 The International Bridge crosses the Niagara river 
 to the Canadian village of Fort Erie. 
 
 By way of Suspension Bridge I continued my 
 travels in the State of New York, and visited Rochester, 
 with 89,366 population, situated on both sides of the 
 Genesee river, 7 miles from its mouth in Lake On 
 tario. Soon after it enters the city the river makes a 
 rapid descent, there being a perpendicular fall of 96 
 ft. near the center, and two others of 25 ft. near the 
 northern limit. It is to the prodigious water-power 
 
157 
 
 thus afforded that much of the prosperity of the city is 
 attributable, and it contains several of the largest flour 
 mills in the country. Other important industries are 
 the production of clothing, boots and shoes, engines 
 and boilers, agricultural implements, trees and garden 
 and flower seeds. The nurseries are worth paying a 
 visit. 
 
 There are a number of exceedingly fine buildings 
 in Eochester, as for instance, the City Hall, Powers 
 Buildings, the University of Rochester with the finest 
 geological cabinets in the Union, collected by Professor 
 Henry A. Ward, and Warner s New Building. There 
 also are several good educational academies and chari 
 table institutions. 
 
 The Genesee Falls have several falls, the first of 
 which is 96 ft. high, the second 25 ft. and the third 
 84ft. 
 
 Charlotte, 7 miles distant, on Lake Ontario, is the 
 port of Rochester. 
 
 The route from Rochester to Syracuse, not far from 
 where the Aqueduct, 848 ft. long and with a canal- 
 width of 45 ft., carries the Erie Canal over the Genesee 
 river, has nothing noteworthy. Syracuse has 68,192 
 inhabitants and very important Salt springs, the 
 most extensive in America. Of the leading High- 
 schools, the University of Syracuse (Methodist) is most 
 prominent. Manufactures and trade in this city are 
 also of a grand scale. 
 
 Rome is a thriving city of 12,045 population, and 
 the large railroad-shops and rolling-mills are located here. 
 
158 
 
 Rome is one of the best lumber-markets in the State, 
 and there is excellent water power, the city being 
 situated at the Junction of the Erie and Black River 
 Canals. 
 
 The last important town en route for Albany is 
 Utica, situated on the S. bank of the Mohawk. The 
 city has 33,913 inhabitants, extensive and varied 
 manufactures, and is the center of an important rail 
 way and canal system. Here is the State Lunatic 
 Asylum and several spacious and pretty buildings. 
 
 From Utica the train runs for some time parallel 
 with the Lake Erie, who traverses the State of New 
 York from Buffalo to Albany, and afterwards through 
 the picturesque Mohawk Valley, and alights in the 
 capital of the State of New York, the beautiful city of 
 Albany. 
 
 The capital of New York State is finely situated on 
 the W. bank of the Hudson, at the head of the sloop 
 navigation and near the head of the tide water. It was 
 founded by the Dutch as a trading post in 1614, and 
 next to Jamestown in Virginia, was the earliest Euro 
 pean settlement in the original 13 States. Its present 
 name was given it in 1664, in honor of the Duke of 
 York and Albany, afterward James II. It was 
 chartered in 1686, and made the State capital in 1798, 
 since which time its population has increased from 
 5,349 in 1800, to 90,903 in 1880, estimated now, 
 to over 100,000. 
 
 Albany has a large commerce, as the entrepot of 
 the great Erie canal from the W. and the Champlain 
 
159 
 
 canal from the N., and as the center to which several 
 important railways converge. 
 
 The New Capitol, begun in 1871, now nearly 
 finished, is the largest and most splendid edifice in 
 America, the Federal Capitol excepted. Of granite, 
 in Renaissance style and standing on the most elevated 
 ground in the city, with a tower, 320 ft. high, it is 
 visible for miles around. The structure is 300 ft. N. 
 and S. by 400 ft. E. and W. 
 
 The State Library in the Capitol numbers 150,000 
 volumes, and contains a collection of curiosities and 
 historical relics. 
 
 The State Geological and Agrictural Hall has 
 valuable collections in Natural History, Geology and 
 Agriculture and many curious relics. The Medical 
 College is a prosperous institution with an extensive 
 Museum, and the Law School of the University of 
 Albany is of great importance. The Dudley Observa 
 tory, founded and endowed by Mrs. Blandina Dudley, 
 stands on Observatory Hill, near the limits of the city 
 and has a valuable special library, and some fine ap 
 paratus. 
 
 The educational institutions of Albany are numer 
 ous and efficient, its hospitals and charities note 
 worthy. 
 
 Of the 50 churches in the city, the Cathedral of the 
 Immaculate Conception, seating 4,000 persons, is the 
 pre-eminent. 
 
 6 miles above Albany, on the E. bank of the Hud 
 son, and at the head of river navigation is Troy, 
 
160 
 
 with 56,747 inhabitants, containing extensive manu 
 factures of iron, steel, cars, cotton and woolen-goods, 
 hosiery and shoes, and with a large commerce. 
 
 The Athenaeum, St. Joseph s Theological Seminary, 
 the Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, this latter, one of 
 the leading schools in America for instruction in civil 
 engineering, are excellent schools of learning. 
 
 In West Troy is the great Watervliet Arsenal, with 
 40 buildings in a park of 105 Acres. 
 
 From Albany to New York the trip was made down 
 the Hudson river, the " Rhine" of America, 
 
 The beauty and grandeur of the stream; the 
 picturesque sceneries on its banks 5 the wooded 
 mountains and the hills crowned with pretty villas, and 
 thousand other attractions, make this majestic river to 
 one of the finest in the world. The greater variety, 
 and its superior breadth as well as its stately flow to 
 the sea make it somewhat equal if not superior to the 
 Rhine. 
 
 I will only mention a few of the many lovely spots 
 on both sides of the river as coming down from the 
 place of my departure. 
 
 The scenery from Albany to Hudson, though pleas 
 ing, is somewhat monotonous until Catskill Landing is 
 reached, where there is a little more variety. At 
 Rhinebeck-Landing, opposite Kingston and Rondout, is 
 the Beekman House, 200 years old and the best speci 
 men of an old Dutch Homestead. From New Paltz- 
 Landing, 14 miles distant, I visited Lake Mohonk, a 
 delightful summer resort, situated near the summit of 
 
161 
 
 Sky-Top, one of the loftiest of the Shawangunk 
 Mountains, 1,243 ft. above the river. The largest city 
 between Albany and New York, Poughkeepsie, is 
 reached by ferry from New Paltz-Landing. Built on 
 an elevated plain, nearly 200 ft. above the river, it is 
 backed by high hills. This city has several fine 
 churches, numerous and elegant residences, and no less 
 than eight important educational institutions, including 
 Vassar College, one of the leading female colleges of 
 the world. The buildings of this college, with the main 
 building, 500 ft. in length, are modeled after the Tuile- 
 ries. North of the city are the vast buildings of the 
 Hudson River State Hospital for the Insane. 
 
 Opposite Fishkill-Landing is the handsome built 
 city of Newburg, containing 18,000 inhabitants. Here 
 the Highlands begin. Newburg was the theatre of 
 many interesting events during the Revolution, and 
 Washington s Headquarters, an old gray stone mansion 
 S. of the city, is still preserved as a museum of his 
 torical relics. On the W. bank of the river is the 
 picturesque village of Cornwall-Landing. Between the 
 latter place and West Point, in the Highlands, respect 
 ively Breakneck and Bacon Hill, 1,187 and 1,685 ft. 
 in height, the mountains are among the most command 
 ing features of the river scenery, and from the summit 
 of the latter New York City may be seen. 
 
 West Point is one of the most attractive places on 
 the river. It is the seat of the National Military 
 Academy. Of the most noteworthy buildings, the 
 
 Cadets Barracks, the Academy, the Mess Hall and the 
 
 11 
 
162 
 
 Library, containing 26,000 volumes, deserve mention. 
 The Observatory is in the Library Building. The 
 Chapel and the Museum of Ordnance and Trophies are 
 interesting. 
 
 From Fort Putnam, on Mount Independence, 600 ft. 
 above the river, fine views are obtained. 
 
 The scenery to where the Highlands come to an 
 end is of striking beauty. 
 
 Passing the Buttermilk Falls and arriving at lona 
 Island in whose neighborhood is Sugar-loaf Mountain, 
 at the foot of which is Beverly House, where Benedict 
 Arnold was breakfasting when news came to him of 
 Andre s arrrest, and whence he fled to the British vessel 
 Vulture, anchored in the stream below, CaldwelPs- 
 Landing is reached by ferry. This place is memorable 
 for the costly but futile search after the treasures which 
 the famous pirate, Captain Kidd, was supposed to have 
 secreted at the bottom of the river here. 
 
 Peekskill, opposite CaldwelPs-Landiiig, is one of the 
 prettiest towns on the Hudson. Beyond, the former 
 remains of a small Revolutionary fort are seen, and 
 Verplanks Point is notable as the spot where Henry 
 Hudson s ship, the "Half Moon," first came to anchor 
 after leaving Yonkers. 
 
 At Croton Point, a prominent head-land, projecting 
 into the river, the Croton Kiver enters the Hudson, and 
 6 miles down this stream is Croton Lake, which supplies 
 the Metropolis with water. The lake is formed by a 
 dam 250 ft. long, 40 ft. high and 70 ft. thick, and the 
 water is conveyed to New York by the famous Croton 
 
163 
 
 Aqueduct, which is over 40 miles long, with 16 tunnels 
 and 24 bridges. Sing Sing occupies an elevated slope, 
 and makes a fine appearance from the river. The 
 State Prison is located here, and its vast stone buildings 
 are conspicuous objects from the steamer. Many fine 
 villas crown the heights above and around the village, 
 looking down upon the Hudson, which at this point 
 attains its greatest breadth. 
 
 Nyack, a popular suburban place is opposite Tarry- 
 town, which has many scenic and historic attractions. 
 
 By an inscription in the village the spot is marked 
 where Andre was arrested, and Tarry town witnessed 
 many fights between guerillas during the Revolution. 
 
 It takes its chief interest, however, from its associ 
 ation with Irving s life and writings. Here is the 
 church which he attended, and of which he was warden 
 at the time of his death j here he is buried, and near 
 by are the scenes of some of his happiest fancies, in 
 cluding the immortal Sleepy Hollow and the bridge 
 rendered classic by the legend of Ichabod Crane. 
 
 26 miles distant from New York is the village of 
 Irvington, named in honor of Washington Irving, whose 
 unique little cottage at Sunnyside is close by, upon the 
 margin of the river, but hidden from the traveler s view 
 by the dense growth of the surrounding trees and 
 shrubbery. The cottage is a quaint and picturesque 
 structure, and the E. front is embowered in ivy, the 
 earlier slips of which were given to Irving by Sir 
 Walter Scott, at Abbotsford, and planted by Irving 
 himself. In the vicinity of Irvington are many fine 
 
164 
 
 residences, the most conspicuous of which is the Pauld- 
 ing Manor, situated on a high Promontory, and said to 
 be the finest specimen of the Tudor architecture in the 
 United States. 
 
 Tappan Zee, 10 miles long and 4 miles wide at the 
 widest part, is a widening out of the river, beginning 
 at Piermont. Tappan, an old town, is interesting as 
 one of Washington s headquarters during the Revolu 
 tion and as the place where the unfortunate Major 
 Andre was imprisoned and executed, October the 2d, 
 1780. 
 
 Yonkers, an ancient settlement, was the home of 
 the once famous Phillipse family, of which was Mary 
 Phillipse, Washington s first love. 
 
 The desolate and lonely appearance of the cliffs, the 
 so-called Palisades looming up: the distance of New 
 York City is only short. 
 
 These Palisades, a series of grand precipices, rising 
 in some places to the height of 300 ft., stretch along 
 the river-bank in unbroken line, for more than 20 
 miles. The rock is trap, columnar in formation, and 
 the summit thickly wooded. 
 
 Passing Fort Washington and affording fine views 
 of the Jersey shore, the northern suburbs, the harbor 
 and the city, the steamer lands in the metropolis, thus 
 ending the brilliant trip. 
 
 After a brief stay in New York, making this city 
 my headquarters, I started direct for Chicago, the 
 principal city of Illinois, the metropolis of the West, 
 and the greatest railway centre on the continent. It is 
 
165 
 
 situated on the W. shore of Lake Michigan, at the 
 mouth of the Chicago River, in lat. about 41 50 N., 
 and Ion. 10 33 W. from Washington. The city 
 stands on the dividing-ridge between the basins of the 
 Mississippi and St. Lawrence, and is surrounded by a 
 prairie stretching several hundred miles S. and W. 
 
 The first white visitors to the site of Chicago were 
 Joliet and Marquette, who arrived in August, 1673. 
 The first permanent settlement was made in 1804, 
 during which year Fort Dearborn was built by the 
 U. S. Government. At the close of 1830, Chicago 
 contained 12 houses and 3 country residences, with a 
 population, composed of whites, half-breeds and blacks, 
 of about 100. It was organized in 1 833 and incorpor 
 ated as a city in 1837. At the first census taken, on 
 July 1st, 1837, the entire population was found to be, 
 4,170, at the census in 1880, 503,304. 
 
 The present population is estimated to exceed 600,- 
 000. 
 
 Chicago was visited by two conflagrations of enor 
 mous dimensions, but one year after the first fire, 1871, 
 a large part of the burned districts had been rebuilt, 
 and the second fire in 1874, though it destroyed 18 
 blocks in the heart of the city, left no marks after a 
 few months. 
 
 Chicago ranks next in commmercial importance to 
 New York among the cities of the Union. As early as 
 1854, it had become the greatest primary depot for grain 
 in the world 5 and since then it has also become the great 
 est grain, live-stock, and lumber market in the world. 
 
166 
 
 The manufactures of Chicago are extensive and impor 
 tant, employing about 150,000 persons, and including 
 iron and steel works, factories of car-wheels, cars, and 
 other railroad appliances, flour mills, furniture-factor 
 ies, manufactories of boots and shoes, and tanneries. 
 They number about 4,000, the annual product being 
 over 300 millions of dollars worth. 
 
 There are 25 elevators of enormous storage capacity 
 and 26 railways enter the city. 
 
 Most of the public buildings were burned down in 
 the great fire, and have not been replaced as rapidly as 
 the business structures. The New City Hall and 
 County Court House, nearly completed, is estimated to 
 $5,000,000. The Custom House and Post Office, the 
 Board of Trade Building and the Exposition Building- 
 are among the finest in the city. 
 
 There are over 300 churches in Chicago, of which 
 are the most prominent: Unity Church, Twelfth Street 
 Church and the Roman Catholic Cathedral. 
 
 The Public Library contains 92,000 volumes. The 
 Academy of Sciences established in 1857, has lost a 
 valuable collection of 38,000 specimens in the fire. 
 The Art Institute, the University of Chicago, Dearborn 
 Observatory, the Baptist Theological Seminary, the St. 
 Ignatius College, the Presbyterian Theological Seminary, 
 Rush Medical College, the College of Physicians and 
 Surgeons, Woman s Medical College, Chicago Medical 
 College and the Ilahnemann College, are the most 
 famous literary and educational institutions. 
 
 Among the many hospital and charitable establish- 
 
167 
 
 ments, the following deserve special mention: Cook 
 County Hospital, Mercy Hospital, Michael Reese Hos 
 pital, maintained by the United Hebrew Relief Associ 
 ation, the Newsboys Home, Foundlings Home, Home 
 for the Friendless, Protestant Orphan Asylum, St. 
 Joseph s (male) and St. Mary s (female) Orphan Asylums 
 and the Old People s Home. 
 
 The U. S. Marine Hospital is one of the largest and 
 costliest in the United States. 
 
 The Public Parks of Chicago are nicely laid out 
 and the Lincoln Park contains the Zoological Garden. 
 
 The Water Works of Chicago are worth being 
 inspected. 
 
 The intercourse between the three divisions of the 
 city is effected by 35 bridges, which span the river at 
 intervals of two squares, and swing on central pivots to 
 admit the passage of vessels, These bridges, however, 
 are a serious impediment to navigation, as well as to 
 vehicles and pedestrians 5 and in order to obviate the 
 inconvenience, a tunnel was constructed under the 
 South Branch. It is 1,608 ft. long, with a descent of 
 45 ft. Another similar tunnel, whose total length is 
 1,890 ft. was constructed under the main river in L870, 
 connecting the North and South Division. 
 
 The Union Stock Yards where the vast live-stock 
 trade of the city is transacted, comprise 345 acres, of 
 which 146 are in pens and have 32 miles of drainage, 
 8 miles of streets and alleys, 2,300 gates. They have 
 capacity for 25,000 cattle, 100,000 hogs, 22,000 sheep, 
 and 1,200 horses. Connected therewith are the Pack- 
 
168 
 
 Ing and Slaughtering houses, whence are shipped 
 annually ten million pounds of hog product alone. 
 
 The Grain Elevators are a very interesting feature, 
 all situated on the banks of the river. 
 
 About 16 miles S. of Chicago is the unique city of 
 Pullman. It is named after the inventor of the Pullman 
 Sleeping Cars. From 5,000 to 6,000 workers are em 
 ployed in the shops, where the cars are manufactured. 
 Adjoining Pullman are S. Chicago and Grand Crossing, 
 which contain rolling-mills, iron and steel-mills, and 
 many of the larger manufactures. 
 
 The distance between Chicago and Milwaukee, in 
 Wisconsin, is 85 miles. 
 
 The road via Milwaukee Division of the Chicago and 
 Northwestern R. R. runs along the W. shore of Lake 
 Michigan, through a rich farming, well-culivated and 
 populous country. A few miles beyond Wauke- 
 gan the train crosses the boundary line and enters 
 Wisconsin, soon reaching Kenosha, with 8,000 inhabi 
 tants, important manufactures and a large trade in the 
 products of the surrounding country. 11 miles from 
 here is the academic city of Racine, the second city of 
 the State in population and commerce. Situated on the 
 mouth of Root river, its harbor is one of the best on 
 the lake, its commerce very large and the varied and 
 extensive manufactures are the chief source of the 
 city s wealth. Racine College (Episcopal), is one of 
 the most prominent in the United States. 
 
 Milwaukee, the commercial capital of Wisconsin, 
 and next to Chiccgo the largest city in the Northwest, 
 
169 
 
 is situated on the W. shore of the Lake Michigan, at 
 the mouth of Milwaukee river. 
 
 This river flows through the city, and with the 
 Menomonee, with which it forms a junction, divides it 
 into 3 nearly equal districts. 
 
 The climate is peculiarly bracing and healthful and 
 the atmosphere remarkably clear and pure. The city 
 is regularly laid out. 
 
 Milwaukee was settled in 1835, and incorporated 
 as a city in 1846. Its population in 1880, was 115,- 
 578. The Germans constitute fully one half of the en 
 tire population. 
 
 The commerce of Milwaukee is very large, wheat 
 and flour being the most important articles. There are 
 six grand grain slevators and the flour mills are on an 
 immense scale. Butter, wool, hides and lumber are 
 also important articles of trade. Its manufactures are 
 extensive and embrace the highly esteemed and widely 
 exported Lager-bier, pig-iron and iron castings, leather, 
 machinery, agricultural implements, steam-boilers, car- 
 wheels, furniture, and tobacco and cigars. Pork- 
 packing is extensively carried on. 
 
 Most all streets are well shaded. The County 
 Court House and the LI. 8. Custom House with the 
 Post-Office are exceedingly fine structures. 
 
 The Northwestern National Asylum, for disabled 
 soldiers, is an immense building. The Academy of 
 Music, with seats for 2,300 persons, owned by the 
 German Musical Society, and the Opera-House are 
 handsome edifices. 
 
170 
 
 The Grain-Elevator of the Chicago, Milwaukee and 
 St. Paul and the Chicago and Northwestern Railways, 
 is v ell worth a visit, since it is considered to be the 
 largest in the Union. 
 
 The Rolling-mill at Bay View, outside the city 
 limits, is one of the most extensive in the West. 
 
 Two of the flour-mills in Milwaukee manufacture 
 daily 1,200, respectively 1,000 barrels of flour. 
 
 Leaving Milwaukee, via La Crosse and St. Paul 
 Division of the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul R. R., 
 the first city on this route, Portage City, an important 
 place, with 5,000 inhabitants, large manufactures, and 
 containing a High-school and the workshops of the R. 
 R. Company, was reached. I passed Tomah and 
 Sparta, on the La Crosse river, two flourishing villages 
 in a fertile valley and arrived at La Crosse, on the E. 
 bank of the Mississippi, at the mouth of the Black and 
 La Crosse rivers. It is finely situated on a level 
 prairie, has many handsome buildings, a High-school, 
 flourishing graded schools and an extensive trade in 
 lumber, contains 9 saw-mills, 3 foundries and machine- 
 shops, a large factory of saddlery and harness 
 and various other establishments. Population, 
 15,000. 
 
 On the same line lies the small, but prosperous city 
 of Winona. The First State Normal School is located 
 here, as is the High-School. Winona is one of the 
 most important lumber-distributing points on the Up 
 per Mississippi, and as a grain-shipping-point it ranks 
 among the first in the Northwest. Manufacturing is 
 
171 
 
 also extensively carried on in this little city with 
 10,208 inhabitants. 
 
 Madison was my next stopping-point. This capi 
 tal of tha State has about 12,000 inhabitants and is a 
 flourishing commercial centre. It lies in the very 
 heart of the " Four-Lake Country/ so called from a 
 chain of beautiful lakes which extend over a distance 
 of 16 miles, and discharge their surplus waters into 
 Yahara or Catfish River, a tributary of Rock River. 
 They are named: Mendota, or Fourth Lake, Monona, 
 or Third Lake, and Lakes Wanbesa and Kegonsa. 
 The city lies between Lakes Mendota and Monona. It 
 contains the State Capitol, the Court House and 
 Jail, the Post Office and U. S. Court House, the 
 University of Wisconsin, the Washburn University, 
 (with a telescope whose glass is second only to that 
 in the National Observatory), the State Hospital 
 for the Insane, the Wisconsin Historical Society, 
 (with an interesting collection of .relics and a valu 
 able library of 110,000 volumes), and many handsome 
 churches. 
 
 Beyond Madison, the St. Paul train passes many 
 small places of no interest, until Prairie du Chien, a 
 town of about 3,000 inhabitants, situated on the E. 
 bank of the Mississippi, 2 miles above the mouth of the 
 Wisconsin is reached. This place is in the midst of a 
 beautiful prairie, 9 miles long, and 1 mile wide, bor 
 dered on the E. by high bluffs. 
 
 It is an important local shipping point and has 
 varied and important manufactures. The St. John s 
 
172 
 
 College and St. Mary s female institute are under 
 control of Roman Catholics. 
 
 Faribault, one of the most populous and prosperous 
 interior towns in the State, was the last place in Wis 
 consin which I visited. In 1853 it was the site of 
 Alexander Faribault s trading-post. Its population in 
 1880 was 5,500, and here are the State Asylum for 
 the Deaf and Dumb and Blind, an Episcopal Academy, 
 several flour-mills, foundries and saw-mills. 
 
 Between Faribault and St. Paul, Minnesota, in 
 Northfield, are located, Carlton College, (Congrega 
 tional) and St. Olaf s College, (Lutheran). 
 
 The " Badger State," Wisconsin, has its name from 
 the river, an Indian word signifying u Wildrushing 
 River." First settled by French at Green Bay, 1669 ; 
 organized as a Territory, 1836 ; first territorial legis 
 lature at Belmont, September 1st, 1836; admitted as a 
 State, 1847. 
 
 Area, 56,040 square miles; greatest length, 300 
 miles; greatest breadth, 260 miles; Mississippi River 
 navigable throughout south-west boundary; excellent 
 harbors in- Lake Superior on north, and Lake Michigan 
 on east. 
 
 Port Washington one of the finest natural harbors 
 in the world. 
 
 Temperature at Milwaukee: winter, 19 to 31; 
 summer, 63 to 70 ; rainfall, 30 inches. 
 
 Population of Eau Claire, 21,668, and of Fond du 
 Lac, 12,726. 
 
 Number of farms, 102,904; average value per acre, 
 
173 
 
 cleared land, $26.27; woodland, $19.55. Wheat most 
 valuable crop; cultivation of flax increasing; many 
 acres devoted to culture of cranberries. 
 
 Extensive lead mines in Grant, Lafayette and Iowa 
 counties; native copper in the north, in Crawford and 
 Iowa counties. Milwaukee clay famous for making 
 cream-colored brick. Iron ores in Dodge, Sank, Jack 
 son and Ashland counties. 
 
 Ranks second in hops. 
 
 Population, inclusive 5,576 Colored and 2,695 In 
 dians: 1,563,423. 
 
 Betters and duelists excluded from voting. 
 
 Number of colleges, 7; number of public schools, 
 6,588; school population, 495,233; school age, 4-20. 
 
 St. Paul, the capital of Minnesota, with 125,000 in 
 habitants, is a beautiful city and is situated on both 
 banks of the Mississippi River. 
 
 The streets are well graded and partially paved. 
 The principal public buildings are the State Capitol, 
 the U. S. Custom House, containing the Post Office, 
 and the Court House and City Hall, in progress. The 
 Grand Opera House has seats for 2,300 persons, and 
 the Exposition Building is, like the former, a fine place 
 of amusement. There are 75 churches in the city, 4 
 public and as many private libraries, those of the His 
 torical Society and Library Association comprising to 
 gether about 24,000 volumes. The Academy of 
 Sciences contains about 126,000 specimens in natural 
 history. There are three free hospitals, and a Protes 
 tant and Roman Catholic Orphan Asylum. 
 
174 
 
 Carver s Cave is a great curiosity of nature, con 
 taining a lake which may be crossed in a boat, and 
 Fountain Cave, about 2 miles above the city, was ap 
 parently hollowed out of the rock by a stream which 
 flows through it. It contains several chambers,, the 
 largest being 100 ft. long, 25 wide and 20 high. 
 White Bear Lake and Bald-Eagle Lake are popular 
 resorts with picturesque sceneries. 
 
 Minnehaha Falls, immortalized by Longfellow s 
 poem, are romantically situated. The commerce of the 
 city is very extensive. 
 
 10 miles above St. Paul, is Minneapolis, on both 
 sides of the Mississipi, built on a broad esplanade over 
 looking the famous falls of St. Anthony. The city is 
 regularly laid out, has wide and straight streets, with 
 2 rows of trees on each side and many substantial 
 business blocks and elegant residences. The City 
 Hall, Court House, Chamber of Commerce, the Lum 
 ber Exchange and the Minneapolis Exposition are 
 noticeable structures. 
 
 The Athenaeum Library contains 8,000 volumes 
 and that of the University of Minnesota, 13,000. The 
 last named and the High-School are important institu 
 tions, but there are numerous good public and private 
 schools. 
 
 The prosperity of the city is owing to the abund 
 ant water-power, for manufacturing purposes, from the 
 Falls of St. Anthony. The fall is 18 ft. perpendicular, 
 with a rapid descent of 82 ft. within 2 miles. The 
 rapids above the cataract are finer than the fall itself. 
 
175 
 
 Minneapolis is the center of immense lumber and flour 
 interests, being the largest flour-manufacturing place in 
 America. Its population is about 129,000. The value 
 of the flouring-mill products is estimated at about 
 $22,000,000 annually. 
 
 I extended my explorations in this State as far as 
 to the boundary-line between the United States and 
 Canada via St. Paul and Duluth R. R. and visited en 
 route the city of Duluth. 
 
 The commercial importance of this place, which has 
 about 17,500 inhabitants, derives from its situation at 
 the extreme west point of the Great Lakes, lying on 
 the shore of Lake Superior, near the mouth of the St. 
 Louis river. It is the terminus of 5 rail roads. The city 
 is well-built and contains many fine public buildings; 
 its manufactures, especially in lumber, are extensive. 
 
 The North Shore of Lake Superior is comparatively 
 an unknown region. North of Duluth the shore rises 
 into grand cliffs of greenstone and porphyr, 800 to 
 1,000 ft. in height. The Palisades, 58 miles from 
 Duluth, are a remarkable rock formation, presenting 
 vertical columns from 60 to 100 ft. high, and from 1 to 
 6 ft. in diameter. 
 
 Near by, Baptism river comes dashing down to the 
 lake in a series of wild water-falls. At a distance of 
 53 miles from the Palisades, Pigeon River is the 
 boundary-line between the United States and Canada ; 
 and here begins the " Grand Portage," a series of 
 lakes and streams, beyond which are Saskatchewan 
 and Manitoba. 
 
176 
 
 The " Gopher State/ Minnesota, named from the 
 river; term of Indian origin, signifying "Whitish or 
 Sky-colored water." Explored by Hennepin and La 
 Salle, 1680; Fort Snelling, built 1819; organized as a 
 Territory, 1849; admitted, 1858. 
 
 Area, 83,365 square miles, extreme length, 380 
 miles; breadth near north line, 337 miles; near middle, 
 183 miles ; and on the south line, 262 miles. 
 
 Temperature at St. Paul: winter, 11 to 30 ; 
 summer, 67 to 74. Rainfall at Fort Snelling, 25 
 inches. 
 
 Pembina, port of entry on Red river. 
 
 Number of farms, 140,000; value per acre, cleared 
 land, $20; woodland, $15. 
 
 Total acreage of the State, 53,353,600 ; in farms, 
 16,000,000 ; in forests, 1,800,000. 
 
 Wheat the staple, and milling the great industry, 
 giving employment to 4,000 people. 
 
 Ranks fourth in wheat and barley. 
 
 Dairy interests increasing in value, production of 
 butter and cheese becoming one of the great indus 
 tries. 
 
 Population, 1,118,486, inclusive 1,814 Colored, 99 
 Chinese, and 1,215 Indians. 
 
 Number of colleges, 5; school population, 400, 000 j 
 school age, 5-21. 
 
 Resuming my journey on the Northern Pacific R. 
 R., I reached Moorhead, a town of 5,000 inhabitants on 
 the Red River and the centre of an important trade and 
 thriving manufactures, also the seat of an Episcopal 
 
177 
 
 College. Fargo, on the opposite side of the Red 
 River, is the first station in Dakota, has a population 
 of 10,000, and is regarded as the future commercial 
 center of Dakota. Fargo and Moorhead base their 
 prosperity on the fact that they are the entrepots of the 
 wheat-growing interests. Brick is manufactured here 
 extensively, and there are many other manufactures 
 and the car-shops and round-houses of the R. R. Company. 
 
 Bismarck, the territorial capital, situated on the E. 
 bank of the Missouri River, has a population of 5,000. 
 Many fine public buildings and a Catholic seminary 
 are in this city, and there is a lively trade carried on 
 by four lines of steamers with the region of the Upper 
 Missouri. 
 
 Mandan on the W. bank of the Missouri, has 2,000 
 inhabitants. The Missouri River is spanned by a fine 
 iron railroad bridge, and another iron wagon bridge 
 gives access to Fort Abraham Lincoln. Reaching the 
 twin towns of Medora and Little Missouri, lying on the 
 E. and W. banks of the Missouri, 240 ft. apart, the 
 headquarters of several large stock-raising companies 
 are found to be located there as well as the Northern 
 Pacific Refrigerator Car Company s shops, and the ex 
 tensive abattoirs of the Marquis de Mores, a young 
 French gentleman, who has thousands of cattle on the 
 range and is doing an extensive trade in shipping 
 dressed beof. In the vicinity are valuable coal mines. 
 This is also the central point of Pyramid Park, being 
 but 4 miles distant from Cedar Canon, and 6 miles 
 
 from the burning coal-mines. 
 
 12 
 
178 
 
 Between here and the boundary of Montana is the 
 geologically interesting region of the so-called "Bad 
 Lands." 
 
 From Grlendive,- on the Yellewstone River, a dis 
 tance of 80 miles, Fort Budford is reached by 
 stage. 
 
 Miles City, on the Yellowstone, at the mouth 
 of Tongue River, has many fine buildings and 3,000 
 population. There is a 14 mile ditch for irrigation 
 and valuable lignite mines in the near vicinity. 2 
 miles farther on the railroad is Fort Keogh, a military 
 post of 10 companies, and passing a number of stations, 
 among which is Ouster, deriving its name from Fort Cus- 
 ter, the largest post in the territory, 30 miles S., reached 
 also by stage, Billings, on the Yellowstone River, with 
 ],500 population, is entered into. Here are the R. R. 
 Company s repair-shops, and from here large shipments 
 of cattle, wool, hides, and bullion are made. The 
 Maginnis Mines, Fort Benton and other important 
 points of valuable grazing, mining, and agricultural 
 regions are reached by stages. 
 
 At the fort of the Belt Mountains, about midway be 
 tween the Great Lakes and the Pacific Coast and at 
 the last crossing of the Yellowstone River, is Living 
 ston, with a population of 2,600. 
 
 It has the largest railroad round-house and machine- 
 shops between Brainerd and Portland. Large deposits 
 of iron, lime and sand-stone, silver ore, and bituminous 
 coal exist in close proximity. Lumber, lime and 
 brick are manufactured in the town. White Sulphur 
 
-r- 179 
 
 Springs are 65 miles to the N. These Springs contain 
 remarkable medicinal qualities. 
 
 The Yellowstone Park Branch diverges here and 
 runs to Cinnabar and from the end of the railway the 
 "Wonderland" of the United States is reached by 
 stage, in 6 miles. 
 
 Dakota, so called from a tribe of Indians of the 
 same name had its first settlements at Pembina, made 
 by Lord Selkirk, 1812. It was organized as a Terri 
 tory, 1861, and had its first legislature at Yankton, 
 March 1862. 
 
 Area, 149,100 square miles 5 average length, 450 
 miles ; breadth, 350 miles ; ranks in size next to Texas 
 and California. 
 
 General elevation, 1,000 to 2,500 ft.; Red River 
 frontage, about 250 miles; the Missouri navigable 
 throughout the territory. 
 
 Temperature at Bismarck : winter 4 to 27 ; sum 
 mer, 63 to 71. Climate dry, and cold not so pene 
 trating as in moister regions further east. Rainfall at 
 Fort Randall, 17 inches; 73 per cent, of year s rain 
 falls in spring and summer. 
 
 Yankton is the chief town of the South. 
 
 Dakota is the finest wheat-growing country on the 
 continent. Nutritious grasses at all seasons and abund 
 ant water offer remarkable advantages for stock-rais 
 ing; wool growing an important industry ; climate es 
 pecially favorable for sheep. Ranks fourth in gold, 
 and mineral wealth centred in Black Hills; coal found 
 in workable quantities west of the Missouri. 
 
180 
 
 Population, 135,177 in 1880, with sufficient in 
 crease since then to entitle her to admission as a State. 
 In the population are included 401 Negroes, 238 Chi 
 nese, and 1,391 Indians. 
 
 The Yellowstone National Park, which Congress 
 has set apart as a public park for the benefit and en 
 joyment of the people, is situated partly in Wyoming 
 and partly in Montana. 
 
 It is 65 miles N. and S. by 55 miles E. and W., 
 comprises 3,575 square miles, and is all more than 
 7,000 ft. above the sea. Yellowstone Lake has an 
 altitude of 7,788 ft.; and the mountain-ranges that 
 hem in the valleys on every side rise to the height of 
 10,000 and 12,000 ft. and are covered with perpetual 
 snow. 
 
 The entire region was at a comparatively recent 
 geological period the scene of remarkable volcanic 
 activity, the last stages of which are still visible in the 
 hot springs and geysers. In these the Park surpasses 
 all the rest of the world. There are probably 50 gey 
 sers that throw a column of water to a height of form 
 50 to 200 ft. and nearly 10,000 springs, chiefly of 2 
 kinds, those depositing lime and those depositing silica. 
 There is every variety of color, and the deposits form 
 around their borders the most elaborate ornamentation. 
 The temperature of the calcareous springs is from 160 
 to 170 5 that of the others rises to 200 or more. 
 
 The chief points of interest are, the Mammoth 
 Hotel Terraces, the Norris Geyser Basin, extending 
 from the Lake of the Woods to Madison river, the 
 
181 
 
 
 
 Mammoth Paint-Pots, at the foot of Mount Johnson, 
 the Monument Geyser Basin, on the top of Mount 
 Schurz, in which is the Prismatic Canon, the Ebony 
 Basin, containing Walpurgia Lake, and the Black 
 Warrior Geyser. On the N. of the park are the 
 sources of the Yellowstone; on the W. those of the 
 principal forks of the Missouri; on the S. W. and S. 
 those of Snake river, flowing into the Columbia, and 
 those of Greene river, a branch of the Great Colorado, 
 which enters into the Gulf of California ; while on the 
 S. E. side are the numerous head-waters of AVind 
 river. 
 
 The Yellowstone River, a tributary of the Missouri, 
 is the most extraordinary river on the American conti 
 nent j its source is near S. E. corner of the park in the 
 Yellowstone Lake, 12 miles long and 10 to 15 wide, 
 7,788 ft. above the sea, and nearly inclosed by sriow- 
 clad mountains, rising 3,000 to 5,000 ft. higher. 15 
 miles below the lake are the Upper Falls, and j of a 
 mile farther down the majestic Lower Falls, which are 
 360 ft. high. 
 
 Below the Lower Falls the river flows for 20 miles 
 through the Grand Canon, whose perpendicular sides, 
 from 600 to 1,500 ft. apart, rise to the height of 1,200 
 to 1,500 ft. Below the Grand Canon, the river re 
 ceives Tower Creek, which flows for 30 ft. through a 
 gloomy and pretty deep canon, the Devil s Den, 600 ft. 
 above its mouth the creek pours over an abrupt de 
 scent of 156 ft., thus forming a most beautiful and 
 picturesque fall. 
 
182 
 
 The most remarkable group of hot springs in the 
 world is the Mammoth or White Mountain Hot Springs. 
 Many of these springs are dead, but the calcareous de 
 posits from them cover an area of about 2 square miles. 
 The springs in activity extend from the river s edge to 
 nearly 1,000 ft. in elevation. The Sulphur Mountain, 
 rising from an almost level plain to a height of 150 ft., 
 is perforated with numerous fissures and craters, from 
 which sulphurous vapor pours forth in abundance. 
 
 Close by are some Boiling Mud Springs, and a few 
 miles above the Sulphur Mountain is the Mud Volcano, 
 which has broken out from the side of a well-timbered 
 hill. This volcano is in a constant state of ebullition, 
 throwing up masses of boiling mud and sending up 
 dense columns of steam which rise several hundred feet 
 and are seen for miles around. 
 
 The Great Geysers of the Yellowstone region arc 
 situated on the Fire-Hole river, the middle fork of the 
 Madison in the W. portion of the park. They form 2 
 large groups, the Upper and Lower Geyser Basins. 
 Most of the Springs and Geysers arc near the river. 
 Their average temperature is over 170, that of the air 
 67. Among these, the "Old Faithful/ 7 the "Giant- 
 ess," the "Grand Geyser" and "Giant Geyser," are 
 the most prominent, the waters of which are thrown up 
 in columns to a height of from 100 to 250 ft. The 
 Castle, the Grotto, the Punch-bowl, the Eiverside, the 
 Soda, and the Fan Geysers, and numerous others which 
 have not been named, are worthy of notice. 
 
 Passing Bozeman, with 2,500 population and several 
 
183 - 
 
 flour and plaining mills, and where coal, gold, silver, 
 iron and copper are found nearby, the military post of 
 Fort Ellis is 3 miles E. on the railroad, and after 
 Gallatin, at the head of the Missouri river and Towns- 
 end are passed, Helena, the territorial capital, is reached, 
 already described by me. An excursion to the Gregory 
 mine district, one of the most productive in the world, 
 was worth making. 
 
 Montana was formerly a part of Idaho; became a 
 Territory, 1864; and received about 2,000 square miles 
 from Dakota in 1873. 
 
 Area, 146,080 square miles; length, east and west, 
 460 to 540 miles; average breadth, 275 miles. 
 Drained by the Missouri and its tributaries and the 
 tributaries of the Colorado. Through the E. portion 
 run the small tributaries of the Missouri and the 
 Yellowstone in every direction, while a great number 
 of small rivers, tributary to Flathead and Missoula 
 rivers, forming one of the forks of the Columbia, water 
 the W. section of the territory. 
 
 Temperature at Virginia City: winter, 17 to 30, 
 summer, 55 to 65; rainfall seldom exceeds 12 inches 
 per annum. Immense area of cultivable land; cereal 
 productions are very large, some varieties of corn 
 grown in portions of Territory, but generally too cold. 
 
 Grazing interest of value; estimated area of valu 
 able grazing land, 100,000 square miles; great extent 
 of plains and mountain valleys yet untouched by 
 herdsmen. 
 
 Montana is one of the richest mining countries in 
 
184 
 
 the world; mineral wealth almost inexhaustible; the 
 production in 1882 amounted to about 7 millions of 
 Dollars, of which f was silver and -J- gold. 
 
 Manufacturing interests mainly smelting works, and 
 flour and lumber mills. 
 
 Hanks fifth in silver and in gold. 
 
 Population, 39,159, including 346 Negroes, 1,765 
 Chinese, and 1,663 Indians. 
 
 School population, 10,482; school age, 4 to 21, 
 graded schools in Deer Lodge City, Virginia City and 
 Helena. 
 
 Resuming my journey to Denver, Colorado, by way 
 of Salt Lake City, on the Union Pacific R. II., I in 
 tended to stay in Denver for some time and to explore 
 the interior of Colorado, but especially to study the 
 Geology of the Rocky Mountains. After the required 
 rest, I started first to Central City, a prosperous mining- 
 town with 2,500 inhabitants, beautifully situated on 
 mountain slopes, at an elevation of 8,300 ft. There 
 are a number of quartz-mills here, and being in the 
 centre of a very rich gold-mining region, it has great 
 business. From here I travelled through Clear Creek 
 Valley to Idaho Springs, a nice little village, beautifully 
 situated in a lovely valley, among lofty mountain- 
 ranges, 7,800 ft. above the sea. The chief attractions 
 are the hot and cold mineral springs containing mag 
 nesia, soda, iron and lime, considered to be remedial in 
 rheumatic diseases, and as they are chiefly for bathing 
 there are extensive bathing establishments. 
 
 12 miles beyond the Springs is the important 
 
185 
 
 mining town of Georgetown, situated on S. Clear Creek, 
 at a height of 8,412 ft., one of the highest towns in the 
 world. It is surrounded by hills and has many inter 
 esting spots in the neighborhood and is the starting 
 point for Gray s Peak, 14,251 ft. above the sea. The 
 mountain view from the Peak is undescribably grand. 
 
 En route for Graymont, and just before Silver 
 Plume, the R. R. (Colorado Central, branch of the 
 Union Pacific) describes a double curvature, the so- 
 called Loop, considered to be one of the wonders of 
 American railroad-engineering, without any other equal 
 in the world than the railroad line between Vera Cruz 
 and Orizaba in Mexico. Graymont is at the foot of 
 the aforesaid Gray s Peak. 
 
 On the second excursion, Colorado Springs, whose 
 name is misleading, since the Springs are 5 miles dis 
 tant from here, in Manitou Springs, was visited. 
 Colorado Springs is a flourishing village, situated on 
 the plains, with a fine view of the mountains. 
 
 Manitou Springs, the " Saratoga of Colorado," are 
 situated among the foot-hills at the base of Pike s 
 Peak, and on the banks of the beautiful Fontaine 
 Creek. The waters, containing sulphur, soda and 
 iron, have great tonic effects. The romantic Ute Pass 
 and the Ute Falls are in the nearest neighborhood, the 
 latter descending in an unbroken sheat over a precipice 
 50 ft. high. The picturesque Williams Canon, 15 miles 
 long with rocky-walls, rising 6 to 800 ft. nbove a very 
 narrow pass below, are also in the vicinity. 
 
 Manitou is on the trail to Pike s Peak, reached on 
 
186 
 
 horse-back in about 11 to 12 hours. The view from 
 its summit, 14,300 ft. high, embraces many thousand 
 square miles of plain and mountain, and it stands on the 
 edge of a great mountain-range. Here is a station of 
 the Weather-Signal Bureau, occupied summer and 
 winter. 
 
 A few miles E. of Manitou Springs, on the plain, the 
 so-called Mesa (table), are wonderful formations of 
 sandstone. 
 
 2 miles from Manitou is the "Garden of the 
 Gods/ a little mountain-valley. The road enters it 
 through the " Beautiful Gate, 7 a narrow passage-way 
 between two high ledges of cliffs, in whose center a 
 rock pillar, 30 ft. in height, stands, thus still further 
 narrowing the passage-way. The garden consists of 
 a tract of land of about 450 acres in extent, hemmed 
 in by mountains and bordered by red sandstone cliffs 
 and is almost shut in from the plains. 
 
 1 mile from the Garden, at "Glen Eyrie/ are 
 similar formations of isolated rocks, one of these, the 
 Major Domo, rising to a height of 120 ft., while at its 
 base, it is not more than 10 ft. in diameter. 
 
 Glen Eyrie is a beautiful mountain-gorge, and 
 closed in on every side by cliffs, whilst a lovely moun 
 tain-brook traverses it from one end to the other. Up 
 the rugged Queen s Canon is the Devil s Punch Bowl, 
 romantic cascades and rapids. Cheyenne Canon, 9 
 miles from Manitou, has picturesque cascades and 
 beautiful rock-formations. 
 
 The most visited spot in Colorado, also 9 miles from 
 
187 
 
 Manitou Springs, "Monument Park/ is very striking, 
 and filled with phantastic groups of eroded sandstone, 
 from 5 to 50 ft. high, almost a unique in the West. 
 They are on each side of the Park, which is not 
 quite one mile in length, and mostly ranged along the 
 low hills of the same. 
 
 Caves with peculiar interior formations of stalacti 
 tes and stalagmites are also here to be found, the 
 Grand Cavern, 9,000 ft. above the sea, has magnificent 
 detail-formations. 
 
 Pueblo, the most important city in South Colorado, 
 was my next aim. 
 
 This city is situated at the confluence of Arkansas 
 River and Fontaine Creek. It is the center of a vast 
 and rich agricultural and grazing region, does a very 
 large trade, and has a population of about 4,000, there 
 are several extensive iron-smelting-works. 
 
 From Pueblo the Leadville Division of the Denver 
 and Rio Grande R. R. runs N. W. to Canon City, 
 near which is Talbott Hill, where Professor Marsh has 
 excavated some of the most remarkable fossils ever 
 discovered. Beyond Canon City, the Grand Canon 
 of the Arkansas is entered. The Arkansas river cuts 
 here its way for 8 miles through mountain walls of 
 granite, in some places 3,000 ft. perpendicularly. 
 The beauty of the scenery at the Royal Gorge is of an 
 extraordinary brilliancy, and here the track runs for 
 200 ft. along an iron bridge suspended over the river by 
 steel girders fastened in the rocks on both sides. Be 
 yond the Royal Gorge the land widens and offers 
 
188 
 
 magnificent views of the Sangre de Christo mountain- 
 chain in the S. flanking the " Sierra Blanca," the high 
 est point in the Rocky Mountains, 14,650 above the 
 level of the sea. 
 
 Between Cafion City and Salida nothing noteworthy 
 is found, except a insignificant little place, bearing the 
 somewhat strange name Cotopaxi. 
 
 I stayed one day in Salida and ascended the 
 following day the famous "Marshall Pass," 10,800 
 above the sea, and forming the natural divide between 
 the Atlantic and Pacific Ocean. E. of the Pass the 
 waters flow toward the Arkansas river who discharges 
 into the Mississippi, and on the W. toward the Gunni- 
 son, the latter emptying in the Grand river. The 
 Grand river in junction with the Green river forms the 
 Colorado river who discharges in the Gulf of Cali 
 fornia. 
 
 The view from this Pass is exceedingly fine, es 
 pecially to the Mount Ouray in the Sangre de Christo 
 mountains. There are many snow-sheds on the Pass 
 to prevent snow-slides. The most important place on 
 the other side of the mountain-chain (the continental 
 divide), is Gunnison, with about 5, 000 inhabitants. It 
 is the great outfitting center of the region, and the 
 trade growing out of mining interests is very large. It 
 is very cold here in winter, already in November 26 
 below Zero=25J (cold) E. 
 
 About 1J hours by rail, W. of Gunnison, is the 
 famous Black Canon of the Gunnison river. Of all 
 the accessible canons in the country, this is the grand- 
 
189 
 
 est, the almost perpendicular descent is 2,000 ft. and 
 the river which penetrates this canon is very rich in 
 mountain-trouts. 
 
 After visiting the Canon I returned to Gunnison. 
 
 A lake, on a mountain S. of Cimaron, has disap 
 peared the year previous my arrival in consequence of 
 an earthquake and even the mountain itself had been 
 transformed; this must have caused great sensation, 
 since concussions of the earth in this high-plateau, 
 averaging 7,000 , are very rare. 
 
 I started from Gunnison by the South Park Branch 
 of the Union Pacific R. R. in a northeasterly direction 
 and arrived in Leadville the next morning. 
 
 On this road lies the highest railroad pass in the 
 country, the Alpine Pass, 11,650 ft. above the sea. 
 The view from this Pass exceeds all others in the 
 State and is almost beyond description. 
 
 The city of Leadville is 10,200 ft. above the ocean, 
 considered to be the highest town in the world, and is 
 in the very heart of the Silver El Dorado, discovered 
 1878. It has over 18,000 inhabitants, and is the most 
 celebrated mining-camp in the West. 
 
 The mineral wealth promises to last for an indefinite 
 period of time. The city itself has more of a prosaic 
 than a romantic character, but the surroundings are 
 marvellously pretty, especially the mountain chain of 
 the Divide, W. of the city, with the picturesque Mount 
 Elbert. E. of the city is the Mosquito Range, most of 
 the mining works at its western slope. Here are Fryer 
 Hill, Carbonate Hill, and Yankee Hill. All the mines 
 
190 
 
 in this region are known as the Carbonate Camp, on 
 account of the silver found with carbonate of lead. 
 
 The mountains in which silver is found are of the 
 lime formation and in the fissures are the ores, and the 
 silver is between a whitish Porphyr and dolomitic 
 lime-stone. 
 
 Long before the discovery of the Carbonate Camp, 
 gold was found . in the neighborhood, and the place 
 named by California prospectors and diggers, the Cali 
 fornia Gulch, and another place above the former: Oro. 
 
 Here it was, where the Governor and Senator Tabor 
 of Colorado the same man, whom the State of Colorado 
 owes a great deal of its development and its consequent 
 progress and prosperity had been digging gold. 
 
 The total value of ore produced for 1880, the last 
 census year, was $15,025,153. 14 miles from Lead- 
 ville are the celebrated twin Lakes, nearly 2 miles 
 above the sea-level. 
 
 There are but a few lakes in the Rocky Mountains, 
 
 The smelting-works are of gigantic dimensions, 
 rivaling with those of Pueblo and Denver. The re 
 fining is done in Omaha (Nebraska) and in Baltimore 
 (Maryland) j copper-ores are sent to Swansea, England. 
 
 The climate of Leadvillc is very agreeable, cool in 
 summer and not very cold in the winter, the temperature 
 of Denver lower than that of Leadville, but there is 
 more snow in winter in the latter. 
 
 After close inspections of the prominent mines, as 
 for instance, the Galena and Carbonate mines, etc., I 
 returned to Denver by way of the South Park line, on 
 
191 
 
 which the two mountain-chains of the Mosquito and 
 Park ranges, running parallel, and a Pass, 11,000 ft. 
 in height, have to be crossed. Up to Breckenridge, in 
 the valley, there is nothing of extra ordinary note, but 
 when Como is reached, the mountain scenery is of un 
 usual splendor and brilliancy. 
 
 Beyond this place, the lovely South Park (one of 
 the many parks in the interior of the Rocky Moun 
 tains) has to be traversed. North, Middle, South and 
 San Luis Parks are the most prominent of them. San 
 Luis Park lies in a region where many Mexican live 
 and where Spanish predominates. 
 
 All these Parks are dryed-out lake bottoms, and 
 are variously situated, some at an altitude of from 7,000 
 to 9,000 ft. above the sea. 
 
 E. of the South Park, the so-called Kenosha range, 
 1 0,000 ft. high, has to be crossed and on the other side 
 is the Platte canon, very picturesqe, and the rising- 
 point of the South Platte river, the same on which the 
 city of Denver is situated, and who, in junction with 
 the North Platte, empties into the Missouri. 
 
 Once in the plains, the beautiful city of Denver 
 was soon reached, and a Siesta taken. 
 
 The Southwest of the State has a great future, 
 though the mining interest undeveloped and almost in 
 its infancy. The beauties of Nature are of marvelous 
 splendour, and it is surprising to find the means of 
 communication and transportation by rail in such a 
 neglected and pitiable condition. 
 
 Denver, the capital and largest city of Colorado, is 
 
192 
 
 situated on the S. bank of the South Platte river, at 
 the junction of Cherry Creek, 15 miles from the E. 
 base of the Rocky Mountains, and about 500 miles W. 
 of the Missouri river. It occupies a series of plateaus, 
 facing the mountains, and commanding a grand and beau 
 tiful view. Pike s and Long s Peaks, as well as the 
 snow-covered summits of the range, extending more 
 than 200 miles are seen from here. Denver is the 
 commercial center of Colorado, and beautifully built, 
 mostly of brick, manufactured in the vicinity. The 
 trade of the city is very large, and from it 5 railways 
 radiate. The public buildings are handsome and ex"- 
 tensive and the private residences very beautiful. 
 
 Denver possesses the Denver University, the U. S. 
 Branch Mint, and among its chief structures are: the 
 Court House, City Hall, Chamber of Commerce, the 
 Tabor Opera House, the Railroad depot, several brew 
 eries and factories and a few good hotels. The Den 
 ver Smelting and Refining Works occupy a very large 
 building, with a capacity of 40 tons of ore per diem. 
 
 According to the census of 1 880, it had a popula 
 tion of 35,630, but estimated now to have 80,000 
 inhabitants. 
 
 Intending to return to Denver later on, I started 
 for Santa Fe, in New Mexico. 
 
 La Junta, situated on the Atchison, Topeka and 
 Santa Fe R. R., is the junction with the main line 
 which extends to all points of New Mexico and Ari 
 zona. The next important place is Trinidad, lying at the 
 foot of the Raton Mountains, with a population of 5,000. 
 
193 
 
 It is the center of a large mining business and cat 
 tle trade. The city presents a true Mexican type with 
 its mixture of brick and adobe houses. 14 miles dis 
 tant from here, at Morley, the road climbs through the 
 Raton Pass on the mountains on a grade of 185 feet to 
 the mile. Ascending the "DeviFs Canon/ as it is 
 called, the Spanish Peaks, 100 miles to the N v are dis 
 tinctly visible, and 5 miles further up the mountain, at 
 a height of 7,688 ft., the train suddenly plunges into a 
 tunnel, J a mile in length. 
 
 While coming through the tunnel the border has 
 been crossed and one finds himself in the territory of 
 New Mexico. 
 
 Las Vegas, in that territory is reached, and the 
 brightness of sunny New Mexico manifests itself at 
 once. Las Vegas, on a branch of the Pecos River, has 
 1,500 inhabitants and is the trade-centre of the great 
 sheep-ranches of New Mexico. 
 
 A branch line connects the city with Las Vegas 
 Hot Springs, the attractive sanitarium. It is situated 
 at the mouth of a beautiful carion, and the Springs 
 have an altitude of 6,400 ft. At Lamy, named in 
 honor of the Archbishop of New Mexico, etc., the 
 railroad branches to the interesting and historic city of 
 Santa Fe. This place is the oldest town in the United 
 States, has a population of 5,500, and is the seat of an 
 archiepiscopal diocese, a convent and of 2 ancient 
 Roman Catholic churches, of which the Church of 
 "Nuestra Senora de Gruadalupe" is very famous. It is 
 
 a center of mining interests. Among the great curiosi- 
 
 13 
 
194 
 
 ties of its relics is the ancient Governor s Palace, a long 
 and low structure, built of adobe, extending on one 
 side of the Plaza, where the Soldiers Monument stands, 
 and which was erected in honor of those who fell in the 
 Indian and the late civil wars. On the N. E. outskirts 
 of the city is the military post of Fort Marcy. Santa 
 Fe is mostly built of adobe and its streets present a 
 very picturesque commingling of Americans, Mexicans 
 and Indians. 
 
 Resuming my journey from Lamy, I arrived at 
 Albuquerque, a town of over 4,000 population, situated 
 on the Rio Grande River, at an elevation of 5,000 ft. 
 above the sea. This place, with its modern structures 
 and its extensive trade in wool and hides, etc., is one 
 of the most flourishing and prosperous cities in New 
 Mexico, The vineyards of the Jesuits are well culti 
 vated and the grand Cathedral in the old part of the 
 city, 2 miles distant, is a beautiful edifice. Not far 
 from here is the famous institution in which children of 
 different Indian tribes are educated. 
 
 The train runs through a region full of fine sheep 
 and cattle ranches till it reaches the great mother ridge 
 of the Rocky Mountains at Continental Divide (a sta 
 tion). Wingate, 3 miles from Fort Wingate, is a busy 
 little town, and from here stages run to the Indian vil 
 lage of Zuni, 45 miles N., famous through the re 
 searches of Mr. F. Gushing, who has found among these 
 Indians relics of a high and mysterious civilization. 
 
 Passing Manuelito, where a stage-line runs to Fort 
 Defiance, the headquarters of the Navajo Agency, Hoi- 
 
195 
 
 brook, is reached. I visited the Moqui Indian Village, 
 70 miles away, and found the same well worth a visit. 
 These Indian towns, built on eminences, are so situated 
 that they can only be approached through a narrow 
 defile. The houses are 2 or 3 stories high, built of 
 mud and stone, and ranged in the form of hollow 
 squares. Access can only be had by ladders to the 
 second stories, the first being built solid without any 
 opening. There are seven of these Moqui Pueblos, or 
 Dying Cities, as they have been called, and of which 
 Zuni is the chief, and the inhabitants have often and 
 deeply excited the curiosity of archaeologists. Thev 
 are skilled in pottery, weaving and mural decorations, 
 and their religious rites are of a very strange nature. 
 
 At Canon Diablo, the scenery is very sombre and 
 impressive, and the railroad spans the mighty chasm 
 by a bridge 500 ft. long and 225 ft. high. 
 
 From Peach Springs is the departing point for the 
 Grand Canon of the Colorado, one of the greatest 
 natural wonders in the world. 
 
 The Grand Canon of Colorado was made known to 
 the world only a few years ago by the adventurous voy 
 age of my worthy friend, the Major Powell, downtheriver. 
 The Colorado river is formed by the Grand and Green 
 rivers, which unite in Utah, and flows southward into 
 Arizona. It passes through a succession of remarkable 
 canons, but all of these preliminary wonders sink into 
 insignificance before the Grand Canon, which is more 
 than 300 miles long. The Canon opens all the series 
 of geological strata down to the granite foundation. 
 
196 
 
 The walls are from 3,000 to 7,000 ft. in height. The 
 plateau adjacent to the canon is said to be about 7,000 
 ft. above the level of the sea. 
 
 The river, looking up the canon, is magnificent 
 aud beyond the most extravagant conception of the 
 imagination. 
 
 Continuing my journey on the Atchison, Topeka 
 and Santa Fe R. R., I reached Socorro, which has a 
 population of about 5,000, and is one of the principal 
 mining towns of the territory. Mining, grazing, and 
 fruit-growing are the principal industries. Socorro 
 has a stamp milll, and famous smelting- works (Billings). 
 The Socorro mining district contains the famous Tor- 
 rence and Merrit Mines, within 3 miles. The ores are 
 mostly carbonate of lead, carrying silver, some of which 
 runs as high as $28,000 to the ton. Situated in the 
 Rio Grande valley, the city is beautiful, and in addition 
 to the above named industries does a great trade in 
 agricultural and stock-raising products, and has many 
 fine ranches in its vicinity. San Marcial has about 
 1,200 inhabitants, is a thriving place, and here are the 
 repair-shops of the R. R. company. In 1862, the 
 battle of Valverde, named after a little Mexican village 
 across the river, was fought here between the Federals 
 under General Canby and the Confederates under 
 General Sibley. 
 
 New Mexico is named in honor of one of the Gods 
 of the Aztecs, the ancient inhabitants of Mexico. Col 
 onized by Spaniards, 1582 ; organized, 1850. 
 
 Area, 122,580 square miles j length, eastern bound- 
 
197 
 
 ary, 345 miles; western, 390 miles; average breadth, 
 north of 32, 335 miles; altitude, 3,000 to 4,000 ft. 
 
 Temperature at Santa Fe: winter, 27 to 37; 
 summer, 66 to 70. Rainfall at Fort Marcy, 17 
 inches. 
 
 Las Vegas, Silver City and Albuquerque are grow 
 ing in importance. 
 
 Crops abundant wherever water can be obtained, 
 and corn will ripen almost anywhere; 6,660 square 
 miles irrigable land; number of farms, 5,053. Total 
 acreage of the territory, 78,451,200; in farms, 631,131; 
 in forests, 219,224; unoccupied, 77,820,069. 
 
 Grazing interest extensive and valuable. 
 
 Mineral wealth is rapidly developing. Gold is 
 found in Grant, Lincoln, Colfax and Bemalillo counties; 
 rich copper mines on the San Pedro Grant, in Bcrna- 
 lillo county and in the Pinos Altos region. Zinc, quick 
 silver, lead, manganese, and large deposits of coal have 
 been found. Gold production in 1882, was $150,000; 
 silver, $1,800,000. 
 
 Population, 119,565, including 1,015 colored, 57 
 Chinese and 9, 772 Indians. 
 
 School population, 20,255; school age, 7-18. 
 
 By way of Fort Worth, on the Texas Pacific R. R,, 
 with 8,000 inhabitants and extensive farms in its neigh 
 borhood, and Lampasas, famous for the gigantic ranches 
 in the vicinity, I proceeded to the already described 
 city of Houston, thence to New Orleans, where the In 
 ternational Exposition was held. 
 
 Arrived in New Orleans toward the end of March, 
 
198 
 
 I prolonged my stay in that city till the close of the 
 Exhibition, on the 1st of May, 1884, and started for the 
 State of Alabama, viz. : Mobile. 
 
 Mobile, the largest city and only seaport of Ala 
 bama, is situated on the W. side of Mobile river above 
 its entrance into Mobile Bay. It was the original 
 seat of French colonization in the Southwest and for 
 many years the capital of the colony of Louisiana. 
 Historians differ as to the precise date of its foundation, 
 though it is known, that as early as 1702. there was a 
 settlement, a little above the present site of the city. 
 In 1780, England surrendered it to Spain, and 
 that Government made it over to the United States in 
 1813. It was incorporated as a city in 1819, the 
 population being then about 800. 
 
 Mobile was one of the last points in the Confeder 
 acy occupied by the Union forces during the late war, 
 and was not finally reduced until April 12, 1865, three 
 days after the surrender of General Lee. On August 
 5, 1864, the harbor fortifications were attacked by 
 Admiral Farragut, who ran his fleet past the forts, and 
 closed the harbor against blockade-runners, though he 
 failed to capture the city itself. 
 
 The trade of Mobile is much hindered by the shal- 
 lowness of its harbor. 
 
 The manufactures include carriages and furniture, 
 paper, foundries and machine-shops, the chief business 
 is the receipt and shipment of cotton, coal and lumber. 
 
 Its population is nearly 32,000. The city is laid 
 out beautifully, the streets adorned with shade-trees, 
 
199 
 
 Fort Morgan, formerly Fort Bowyer, on Mobile Point, 
 and Fort Games, on the S. extremity of Dauphine 
 Island, command the entrance to the harbor, which is 
 about 30 miles below the city. Remains of batteries, 
 erected during the war, are still seen in and about the 
 harbor, and on the E. side of the Tensas river are the 
 ruins of Spanish Fort and Fort Blakely. There are 
 some costly public edifices, f. i., the Custom House, 
 which contains the Post Office, several fine churches, 
 hospitals, the Barton Academy, the Medical College, 
 and 6 miles W. of the City, the famous College of St. 
 Joseph, a Jesuit institution, in which is a valuable col 
 lection of scientific apparatus, and a library with 8,000 
 volumes. 
 
 Montgomery, the capital of the State, is not very 
 far from here, and is situated on the left bank of the 
 Alabama river, has 19,500 population, and from Feb 
 ruary to May, 1861, was the first Capital of the Con 
 federate States. The principal buildings are; the U. 
 S. Court House and Post Office, the State House, the 
 City Hall and the Court House. The train passes 
 many nice villages, and crosses one of the most pro 
 ductive portions of Alabama on its course from Mobile, 
 180 miles distant. 
 
 Other excursions I did not make in this State, and 
 therefore reproduce the collected statistics of it. 
 
 The name of Alabama derives from an Indian word, 
 signifying, "Here we rest." Settled near Mobile Bay 
 by French, 1702, admitted as a State, 1819; seceded 
 1861; re-admitted 1868. 
 
,_ 200 . 
 
 Area, 52,250 square miles ; length, 330 miles ; 
 average breadth, 154 miles ; seacoast, 60 miles. In 
 land steam navigation about 1 ? 500 miles. Mobile is 
 the only seaport. 
 
 Temperature at Huntsville; winter, 46 to 52 5 
 summer, 79 to 83 , rainfall 55 inches. July is the 
 hottest month. Fruit trees blossom February 1st to 
 March 1st. 
 
 Huntsville, with 4,977 population, is the northern 
 trade center, Selma, an important railroad center, and 
 the two cities Birmingham and Bradford, very import 
 ant manufacturing centers, especially of iron, etc., and 
 a great coal trade is carried on in them. 
 
 Number of farms, 135,864. Average value per 
 acre, cleared land, $6.53; woodland, $4.08. Number 
 of industries, 2,070; flour and grist mills, 807; saw 
 mills, 354. Mineral regions in northeast corner, extend 
 ing southwest, about 160 miles, with average width of 
 about 80 miles, contains 3 distinct coal fields, area 
 over 5,000 square miles, and beds, 1 to 8 ft. thick ; 
 limestone, sandstone and iron near the coal. 
 
 Population, 1,262,505, inclusive 600,107 Negroes 
 and 213 Indians. Slaves, in 1860, 435,080. Number 
 of colleges, 4; school population, 401,002; school age 
 7-21. 
 
 En route to Florida, the city of Jacksonville was 
 reached. This is the largest city in Florida and is 
 situated on the left bank of the St. John s River. 
 
 Its population is 17,698, and with the suburbs, 
 about 22,000. The bluffs on the N. E. and N. W, of 
 
201 
 
 the city are picturesque, and the commerce of some 
 importance. 
 
 Cotton, fruit, sugar, fish, and vegetables are shipped 
 to northern and foreign ports. The main temperature, 
 69.6; the coldest month (January), 52.7; the hot 
 test month (July), 83.4. There are several fine 
 drives to Moncrief s Spring and on the shell-road, to the 
 Fair Grounds. 
 
 Sanford, on the St. John s River, lies in a distance 
 of 16 hours steamship ride from Jacksonville and near 
 this young, but rapidly growing city are a number of 
 fine orange-groves. Opposite from Sanford is Enter 
 prise, one of the most popular resorts in southern 
 Florida for invalids. Frederick De Bary, the well 
 known importer of New York, and the founder of the 
 De Bary Steamship Line on the St. John s, has his 
 country-seat here. 
 
 The St. John s River has its sources in a vast ele 
 vated savanna midway down the peninsula, flows almost 
 directly N. for 300 miles to Jacksonville, and then 
 turning E. empties into the Atlantic. 
 
 Its banks are lined with a luxuriant tropical vege 
 tation, orange-groves, shade-trees and picturesque vil 
 lages. For hundreds of miles one passes through a 
 grand forest of cypresses robed in moss and mistletoe; 
 of palms towering gracefully far above the surrounding 
 trees, of water-oak, poplar and pine trees, and where 
 the hammocks rise a few feet above the water-level, 
 the olive, cotton tree, juniper, cedar, the sweet-bay and 
 live-oak shoot up their splendid stems; while among 
 
202 
 
 the inferior growths and shrubbery, the azalea, agave, 
 poppy, the mallow, sumach, the sensitive plant and the 
 nettle are noted. Vines, the wood-bine and, bignonia 
 and the fox-grape ran in these thickets and clamber 
 along the branches. For its whole length the river 
 affords glimpses of perfect beauty. 
 
 Green Cove Springs takes its name from a sulphur 
 spring, and is one of the favorite resorts, 3 miles above 
 Magnolia. 
 
 Palatka, admirably situated on the elavated W. 
 bank of the river is the largest city on the river above 
 Jacksonville, its population is 5,000. Above Palatka 
 the vegetation becomes more characteristically tropi 
 cal, and the river narrows down to a moderate-sized 
 stream, widening out at last only to be merged in 
 Grand and Little Lake George, Dexter s Lake, Lake 
 Beresford, and Lake Monroe, at Enterprise. 
 
 Lake George is one of the most beautiful lakes in 
 the world, 6 miles wide and over 13 miles long, and 
 from here to the already described Sanford, Drayton, 
 an island in the lake, and embracing, 1,700 acres, and 
 Volusia, 5 miles above Lake George, a landing station, 
 and Orange Grove, Hawkinsville, Blue Spring and 
 Lake Monroe are the most prominent features. 
 
 On another excursion from Jacksonville, I visited 
 St. Augustine, situated on the Atlantic coast of Florida 
 and occupying a narrow peninsula formed by the 
 Matanzas River and the St. Sebastian. All the old 
 Spanish residences in this place, which contains a resi 
 dent population of 2,200 (increased in the winter by 
 
203 
 
 from 8,000 to 10,000 visitors) are built of coquina- 
 stone, those of the American residents in the modern 
 style. 
 
 The most interesting feature of St. Augustine is the 
 old Fort of San Marco, built of coquina, a unique con 
 glomerate of fine shells and sand found in large quanti 
 ties on Anastasia Island, at the entrance of the harbor, 
 and quarried with great ease. The Fort was 100 
 years in building and was completed in 1756, as is 
 attested by the following inscription over the gateway: 
 "Don Fernando being King of Spain, and the Field- 
 Marshal Don Alonzo Fernando Herida, being Governor 
 and Captain-General of this place, St. Augustine of 
 Florida and its provinces, this Fort was finished in the 
 year 1756. The works were directed by the Captain- 
 Engineer Don Pedro de Brazos y Gareny." 
 
 Its dark passages, gloomy vaults and recently-dis 
 covered dungeons impress the visitor, and bring one to 
 ready credence of its many traditions of inquisitorial 
 tortures; of decaying skeletons, found in the latest 
 opened chambers, chained to the rusty ring-bolts, and 
 of aPeged subterranean passages to the neighboring 
 convent. The Sea- Wall and the City Gate are impos 
 ing structures in a fair state of preservation. 
 
 In the old Catholic Cathedral, one of the bells 
 bears the date of 1682, and there are several convents, 
 and the Governors Palace, formerly the residence of 
 the Spanish Governors. 
 
 The old Huguenot Burying-Ground, and the Mili 
 tary Burying-Ground where the remains of those who 
 
204 
 
 fell in the prolonged Seminole war rest, are interesting. 
 
 The Soldiers 7 Monument, in honor of the Confederate 
 dead, was erected in 1871. 
 
 The climate of St. Augustine is singularly equable 
 both winter and summer 5 the mean annual temperature 
 being 70. 
 
 A third excursion from the starting-point Jackson 
 ville was to the Ocklawaha River. The river empties 
 into the St. John s about 25 miles S. of Palatka, 
 opposite the diminutive town of Welaka after flowing 
 for about 250 miles through different counties. This 
 excursion was made up the Ocklawaha to Silver Spring 
 and well worth making. Alligators of immense size 
 are numerous, and birds of the most curious forms and 
 brilliant plumage are seen everywhere on this trip. 
 Silver Spring, said to be the traditional " Fountain of 
 Youth/ has wonderful clear waters, and on the bottom, 
 80 ft. below, the exact form of the smallest pebble is 
 visible. By the water of this spring, a deep river, 
 100 ft. wide, is formed, and known as Silver Spring 
 Creek. 
 
 Of other curiosities in Florida is the Indian River 
 Country, a long lagoon, beginning near the lower end 
 of Mosquito Inlet. The water of this lagoon or sea-arm 
 is salty, though it receives a considerable body of fresh 
 water through Santa Lucia River, an outlet of the 
 Everglades. The adjacent lands are mostly fertile, 
 producing abundantly oranges, lemons, limes, bananas, 
 pineapples, guavas, grapes, sugar-cane, different berries 
 and garden vegetables. 
 
205 
 
 The climate is excellent and the tropical scenery 
 delightful. It was by one of the many southern out 
 lets of Indian River that General Breckenridge escaped 
 to Nassau after the collapse of the Confederacy. 
 
 155 miles W. of Jacksonville is the beautifully 
 located capital of the State, the city of Tallahassee. 
 The abundance and variety of its flowers and shrubs 
 give it the appearance of a garden. 
 
 There are some fine public buildings in which is 
 included the Capitol, the Court House, and the West 
 Florida Seminary. The climate is very healthy, and 
 the Lakes Bradford, Jackson and Lafayette very attrac 
 tively situated in its neighborhood. 
 
 The Wakula Spring, an immense lime-stone basin, 
 106 ft. deep, with crystalline clear water, and so copi 
 ous that a river is formed at its very start, is reckoned 
 among the chief wonders of Florida. 
 
 The Gulf coast of Florida has already been parti 
 ally described by me, and after leaving this State, I 
 entered an other southern State: the " Empire State of 
 the South," Georgia. 
 
 The discoverer of Florida, the " Peninsula State," 
 landed on Easter Sunday, or " Flowery Easter," hence 
 the name. 
 
 Settled by Spaniards at St. Augustine, 1565; or 
 ganized as a territory, 1822 ; admitted as a State, 
 1845; seceded 1861; re-admitted, 1868. 
 
 Area, 58,680 square miles ; coast line, 1,146 miles, 
 472 being on Atlantic; length, north and south, 
 350 miles; length, east and west, 340 miles; mean 
 
206 
 
 width of peninsula, 100 miles; greatest elevation, 
 250 ft. 
 
 Temperature at Jacksonville: winter, 55 to 61; 
 summer, 80 to 83. Rainfall at Fort Myers, 57 inches. 
 
 Pensacola has a population of 6,845. Number of 
 farms, 23,438; owned by State, 15,000,000 acres; 
 value per acre, cleared land, $9.48; woodland, $3.03; 
 swamp, $1.00; school lands, $1.25. 
 
 Corn most valuable crop. Over three million 
 orange trees planted since 1870 and millions of oranges 
 exported yearly. 
 
 Population, 269,493, inclusive 126,690 negroes, and 
 180 Indians. Slaves, in 1860, 61,745. 
 
 Betters on elections and duelists excluded from 
 voting. 
 
 School population, 88, 677 ; enrolled in public schools, 
 39,315; school age, 4-21. 
 
 Per steamship I arrived in the city of Savannah, 
 the chief city and commercial metropolis of Georgia, 
 situated on the S. bank of the Savannah river. Its 
 streets are broad and beautifully shaded, and contain 
 at many of the crossings small public parks, of which 
 there are 24 in the city. It is universally conceded 
 that Savannah is one of the handsomest cities in 
 America. 
 
 The chief business of the place is in cotton, though 
 the trade in lumber is also considerable. As a cotton 
 port it ranks second in the Union. The chief manu 
 facturing establishments are plaining mills, foundries, 
 and flour and grist mills. 
 
207 
 
 Of noteworthy buildings, Savannah possesses sev 
 eral, among these are the Custom House, the Court 
 House, the Post Office, Exchange, the U. S. Barracks, 
 the Police Barracks, Artillery, Armory and Jail. Chat 
 ham Academy and St. Andrews Hall are conspicuous 
 structures. The Masonic Hall building is interesting 
 as the place where the Ordinance of Secession was 
 passed, January 21st, 1861. Four years later, on 
 December 28th, 1864, a meeting of citizens Avas held 
 in the same apartment to commemorate the triumph of 
 the Union arms. The Georgia Historical Society has 
 a fine library and some interesting relics. The Telfair 
 Academy of Arts, McCarthy s Business College, and 
 the Savannah Medical College are famous educational 
 institutions, there are also several very fine churches 
 in the city. 
 
 The most attractive place of public resort is Forsyth 
 Park with a handsome fountain and the stately Con 
 federate Monument. The Pulaski Monument is one of 
 the most perfect specimens of monumental architecture 
 in the United States, and appropriately covers the spot 
 where Pulaski fell, during an attack upon the city 
 while it was occupied by the British, in 1779. 
 
 The drives are of great beauty, the most prominent : 
 to Bonaventure Cemetery with its magnificent scenery. 
 1 mile beyond Bonaventure is Thunderbolt, also a popu 
 lar drive, and according to local tradition, deriving its 
 name from the fall of a thunderbolt which caused the 
 issue of a spring of w r ater from the spot, flowing ever 
 since. 
 
208 
 
 Augusta, with a population of 32,000, is one of the 
 most beautiful cities in the South. It is situated on the 
 Savannah river and contains the finest monument in 
 the South, the Confederate Monument, another monu 
 ment is that which was erected in 1849, to the memory 
 of the Georgian signers of the Declaration of Indepen 
 dence. Augusta has very fine buildings and a prosper 
 ous commerce and extensive manufactures. A fine 
 view of the city is obtained at Summerville, a suburban 
 town, where the U. S. Arsenal and the range of work 
 shops, built and used by the Confederates during the 
 war, are located. An excursion trip brought me to 
 Macon, a very prosperous and picturesque city with 
 20,000 inhabitants, on the Ocmulgee river. Here are 
 several important iron-foundries, machine-shops, cotton 
 and carriage manufactures, and flour-mills. The Mer 
 cer University is a prosperous institution, and the Pio 
 Nono College, the Wesley an Female College, and the 
 State Academy for the Blind are spacious and impos 
 ing buildings. Rose Hill Cemetery is considered one 
 of the finest burial-grounds in America. 
 
 Atlanta was the last place in the State which I 
 visited. It is the capital and the most important com 
 mercial city in the State, except in the cotton-trade, 
 and has a population of 50,000 (in 1880). It is the 
 great center of railroads, is picturesquely situated upon 
 hilly ground, 1,100 ft. above the sea, and is laid out in 
 the form of a circle. Its public buildings are of im 
 mense proportions and beauty. 
 
 Its position made it of vital importance to the 
 
209 
 
 Southern cause, and with its capture by General Sher 
 man, September 2d, 1 864, the Confederacy s doom was 
 sealed. Before abandoning the city, to fall back on 
 Macon, General Hood set fire to all machinery-stores, 
 and war munitions which he could not remove, and in 
 the conflagration the greater part of the city was re 
 duced to ashes. In 1868 Atlanta was made the State 
 capital. 
 
 Georgia, the Empire State of the South, is the 
 farthest south and latest settled of the 13 original States, 
 named in honor of George II., King of England; settled 
 by English at Savannah, 1753; seceded, January, 1861 ; 
 re-admitted, December, 1870. 
 
 Area, 59,475 square miles; extreme length, 320 
 miles ; extreme breadth, 254 miles ; coast line, 480 miles ; 
 number of harbors, 3. Savanna, Ogeechee, Altamaha, 
 Satilla, St. Mary s, Flint, Chattahoochee and Upper 
 Coosa are navigable rivers. 
 
 Temperature at Augusta: winter, 46 to 52; sum 
 mer, 79 to 83. Rainfall at Savannah, 48 inches. 
 
 Savannah, Brunswick and St. Mary s are ports of 
 entry. Columbus contains the largest cotton-mill in 
 the South. Andersonville was the seat of the largest 
 rebel prison during the civil war. 
 
 Number of farms, 62,003 in 1860, and 138,626 in 
 1880. Average value per acre, cleared land, $6.93; 
 w r oodland, $5.45. 72 per cent, of laborers engaged in 
 agriculture; rural income, $155 per individual. Ranks 
 second in rice and sweet potatoes. Latest mining re 
 ports give 100,000 tons of coal and 91, 416 tons of iron ore. 
 
 14 
 
210 
 
 Population, 1,542,180, incl. 725,133 colored; 17 
 Chinese and 124 Indians. 
 
 Non-taxpayers are excluded from voting. 
 
 I could not obtain the School Statistics of this 
 State. 
 
 From Atlanta I proceeded to Charleston, which was 
 settled in 1679 by an English colony under William 
 Sayle, who became the first Governor. 
 
 It played a conspicuous part in the Revolution, 
 having been the first among the chief places of the 
 South to assert a common cause with and fur the 
 colonies. It was thrice assaulted by the British, and 
 only yielded to a 6 weeks siege by an overwhelming 
 force, May 12th, 1780. It was the leading city, both 
 in the nullification movement during Jackson s ad 
 ministration and the incipient stages of Southern 
 secession. Open hostilities in the civil war began at 
 Charleston, with the bombardment of Fort Sumter, on 
 April 12th, 1861; and for the next 4 years it was 
 one of the chief points of Federal attack, without being 
 lost by the Confederates, however, until General 
 Sherman s capture of Columbia, on February 17th, 
 1863. During the war many buildings were destroyed^ 
 and the towers and steeples of churches riddled with 
 shot and shell. Since its close, rapid progress has 
 been made in the work of rebuilding, and Charleston is 
 now more prosperous than ever. It has about 50,000 
 inhabitants. The commerce of the city is very large, 
 the chief exports being cotton, rice, naval stores and 
 fertilizers. The manufacture of fertilizers from the 
 
211 
 
 valuable beds of marl and phosphates (fossiles), dis 
 covered in 1868, is now one of the principal industries. 
 There are also flour and rice mills, bakeries, carriage 
 and wagon factories and machine-shops. Lumber is 
 taking a place among the leading articles of exports. 
 Ever since my stay in Charleston, the city has been 
 visited by several earthquakes which were very detri 
 mental, and nearly the whole region along the river 
 was inundated and the houses destroyed. 
 
 Charleston is situated at the confluence of the 
 Ashley and Cooper rivers, in lat. 32 45 N., and Ion. 
 79 57 W. 
 
 Of the public buildings of Charleston, several are, 
 or were of imposing beauty, viz.: the IT. S. Custom 
 House, the City Hall and the Old Orphan House. 
 The College of Charleston, the Medical College and 
 Roper Hospital, the City Hospital, the Chamber of 
 Commerce, the Masonic Temple, the U. S. Court House, 
 the Charleston Library, Academy of Music, the County 
 Jail, and the South Carolina Society Hall are more or 
 less handsome structures. St. Michael s and St. Philip s 
 Church, the former a venerable old structure, are very 
 famous. In the portion of the grave yard lying across 
 the street is the tomb of John C. Calhoun. In the old 
 Huguenot Church, the quaint and elegant mural entab 
 latures with which its walls are lined can be 
 seen. 
 
 15 miles from here is the old Church of St. James, 
 on Goose Creek, built in 1711. The harbor of Charles 
 ton is a large estuary, extending 7 miles to the Atlantic. 
 
212 
 
 The passage to the inner harbor is defended by 4 
 fortresses. 
 
 Fort Surnter, rendered famous by the part which it 
 played in the opening scene of the Civil War lies upon 
 a shoal in the harbor, covering the channel. Sullivan s 
 Island, the "Long Branch" of South Carolina, and 
 Mount Pleasant, in the vicinity, are public resorts and 
 much frequented. 
 
 Aiken is among the most famous and frequented 
 winter-resorts in America. It lies on an elevated 
 plateau, about 700 ft. above the sea and the land con 
 sists of almost unmixed sand, covered by a scanty crust 
 of alluvium, which bears but little grass, only the great 
 southern pine grows here abundantly and pine-forests 
 encircle the town. 
 
 The natural barrenness of the soil has been over 
 come within the city by careful culture and liberal use 
 of fertilizers, and every house has its garden with trees 
 and southern plants. Inside the white palings arc 
 dense thickets of yellow jasmine, rose-bushes, orange, 
 wild-olive, and fig trees, bamboo, Spanish bayonet, and 
 a great many vines and creepers, but, without the 
 palings, the soil is as dry and white as it is upon the 
 sea-shore. The air is remarkably pure and dry, and the 
 average temperature is 63.1. In this place I had the 
 honor to form the acquaintance of the botanist Ravenel. 
 
 The capital of the State, Columbia, is a beautiful 
 city, situated on the bluffs of, and 15 ft. above the 
 Congaree, on an elevated level plateau, a few miles be 
 low the charming falls of the river. 
 
213 
 
 During the" occupation by Sherman s forces in 
 February 1865, the city was considerably changed 
 through the unfortunate conflagration which destroyed 
 a large part of it. There are several handsome public 
 and private buildings, 2 Seminaries, the University of 
 South Carolina, the Executive Mansion and the State 
 House (unfinished), the Lunatic Asylum, State Peni 
 tentiary, the U. S. Court House and Post Office, the City 
 Hall, several Academies, and the Market-House, in 
 Columbia. The car-shops of the E. E. Company cover 
 4 acres of ground and there are other large manufac 
 turing establishments. In the N. W. of the city are 
 the Fair Grounds of the South Carolina Agricultural 
 and Mechanical Society. 
 
 The "Palmetto State, 7 South Carolina, was named 
 in honor of Charles II. of England, by whom the pro 
 vince was created in 1663. It is one of the 13 original 
 States. First permanent settlement made by the English 
 at Port Koyal, 1670. Famous nullification troubles 
 occurred 1832-33; led by J. C. Calhoun, and opposed 
 vigorously by President Jackson, during which his 
 famous expression "by the Eternal" was first used. 
 
 Seceded November, 1860; re-admitted June, 1868. 
 
 Area, 30,170 square miles; extreme length, 275 
 miles; greatest breadth, 210 miles; coast line, 200 miles. 
 Largest rivers, Savannah, Great Pee Dee, Santee and 
 Edisto. 
 
 Temperature at Charleston: summer, 79 to 83; 
 winter, 50 to 54; rainfall, 43 inches; frosts seldom 
 occur. 
 
214 
 
 United States customs districts at Beaufort, Charles 
 ton and Georgetown. 
 
 First railroad to use American locomotives, the 
 South Carolina, built 1830-33. 
 
 Number of farms, 93,864. Average value per 
 acre, cleared land, $6.24 5 wood land, $3.65. 
 
 Number of flour and grist mills, 720. 
 
 Ranks first in phosphates. Gold mines in Abbe 
 ville, Edgefield and Union Counties. White and vari 
 egated marbles found in Spartanburgh and Laurens 
 Counties. 
 
 Population, 955,577, including 604,332 Colored, 9 
 Chinese, and 131 Indians. 
 
 Slaves, in 1860, 402,406. 
 
 U. S. Army and duelists excluded from voting. 
 Number of colleges, 9 ; school population, 262,279 ; 
 school age, 616. 
 
 On the road to the Lookout Mountain my next 
 exploration-tour I visited Chattanooga, a city of 30,000 
 inhabitants, situated on the Tennessee River near 
 where the S. boundary of Tennessee touches Alabama 
 and Georgia. 7 railroads converge here. Chattanooga 
 is a very important shipping-point and contains a num 
 ber of iron-mills, blast-furnaces and cotton factories. 
 It is the seat of the Methodist University. During the 
 war Chattanooga was an important strategic point for 
 the operations in Tennessee and Georgia, and played 
 a prominent part in most of the campaigns in this region. 
 Above the city the celebrated Lookout Mountain towers 
 to the height of 2,200 ft. above the sea. It was on this 
 
215 
 
 Mountain that the battle was fought " above the 
 clouds." The points on the Lookout worth visiting are 
 Lake Seclusion, Lulah Falls, Rock City and the 
 Battle-field. 
 
 I next put up at Knoxville, a city of 12,000 popu 
 lation, situated on the Holston River, 4 miles below 
 the mouth of the French Broad. It is fyuilt on a 
 healthy and elevated site and is the principal commer 
 cial place in E. Tennesee, with some manufactures. 
 The East Tennessee University, with which is connec 
 ted the State Agricultural College, the Knoxville Uni 
 versity, the Freeman s Normal School, and the State 
 Institution for the Deaf and Dumb are located here. 
 The Cranberry-Region Magnet-iron-works, close to the 
 boundaries of North Carolina, are almost uniques in the 
 world, and offered me many interesting features. 
 
 On account of the far advanced season I was unable 
 to visit the city of Memphis and gathered all possible 
 data concerning this city, which I here cite as they 
 were given to me officially. 
 
 Memphis is the second city of Tennessee, it is situ 
 ated on the fourth Chickasaw bluff, and had in 1880 a 
 population of 33,593. Memphis has an immense rail 
 road and on the Mississippi an important steamboat- 
 traffic, and is regularly laid out. The cotton trade and 
 its manufactures are very large. In the center of the 
 city is a handsome park, and the public buildings and 
 private residences of exceedingly pretty forms. 
 
 Memphis was captured by the Federals early in the 
 war (June 6 ; 1862), and was never afterward held by 
 
216 
 
 the Confederates. A short distance below Memphis 
 the Mississippi turns toward the W., and crosses its 
 valley to meet the waters of the Arkansas and White 
 rivers. The latter enters the Mississippi 161 miles 
 below Memphis, and the former about 15 miles further 
 down. The Arkansas river is 2,000 miles in Jength, 
 for 800 of which it is navigable by steamers. It rises 
 in the Rocky Mountains, and, next to the Missouri, 
 is the largest tributary of the Mississippi. 
 
 The capital and largest city in the State in point of 
 population (45,000), is Nashville, on the S. bank of 
 the Cumberland river, 200 miles above its junction 
 with the Ohio, and built on irregular gradual rising 
 land. It has numerous imposing buildings, among 
 which the Capitol, constructed inside and outside of a 
 beautiful variety of fossiliferous lime-stone is pre 
 eminent. 
 
 The University of Nashville, with a fine museum, 
 the Fisk University, the Tennessee Central College, 
 Vanderbilt University, etc., are fine educational insti 
 tutions, and there are numerous others. The State 
 Penitentiary is located here and the manufactures are 
 varied and important. 12 miles E. of Nashville is the 
 " Hermitage, " the celebrated residence of Andrew 
 Jackson. 
 
 In November, 1864, the Confederate General Hood, 
 having lost Atlanta, placed his army in Sherman s 
 rear and began an invasion of Tennessee. After severe 
 fighting with General Schofield on November 30, he 
 advanced upon Nashville and shut up General Thomas 
 
217 
 
 within its fortifications. For two weeks little was done 
 on either side. When Thomas was fully ready, he 
 suddenly sallied out on Hood, and, in a terrible two 
 day s battle, drove the Confederate forces out of their 
 intrenchments into headlong flight. The Union cavalry 
 pursued them, the infantry following close behind, and 
 the entire Confederate Army, except the rear-guard, 
 which fought bravely to the last, was broken into a 
 rabble of demoralized fugitives, which at last escaped 
 across the Tennessee. For the first time in the war 
 an Army was destroyed; and General Sherman started 
 on his famous march to the sea. 
 
 The "Big Bend State, 7 Tennessee, whose name 
 derived from u Tannassee/ Indian name for Little 
 Tennessee Eiver, was first settled permanently, on 
 Tennessee river, in 1756, about 30 miles from present 
 site of Knoxville ; first Anglo-American settlement 
 west of the Alleghanies and south of Pennsylvania 5 ad 
 mitted, 1845; seceded, February, 1861; re-admitted, 
 1868. 
 
 Area, 42,650 square miles; greatest length, east 
 and west, 432 miles; greatest breadth, 109 miles. 
 
 Temperature at Nashville: winter, 37 to 48; 
 summer, 75 to 81. Rainfall at Memphis, 45 
 inches. 
 
 Memphis, principal grain and cotton market be 
 tween St. Louis and New Orleans. Number of farms, 
 165,650. Value per acre, cleared land, $13.00; wood 
 land, $7.28. Most valuable minerals are iron, copper 
 soal; area coal fields, over 5,000 square miles; 
 
218 
 
 copper region in southwest; excellent marbles and 
 limestones. 
 
 Ranks second in peanuts. Hemp, broom corn and 
 flax are also valuable products. Population, 1,542,- 
 359, incl. 403,151 colored, 25 Chinese and 352 Indians, 
 Slaves in 1860, 275,719. 
 
 Non-payers of poll-tax excluded from voting. School 
 population, unknown. 
 
 I now started for the mountain region of North 
 Carolina where the Appalachian system reaches its 
 loftiest altitude, presents scenes of beauty and sublimity 
 unsurpassed by anything E. of the Rocky Mountains. 
 It consists of an elevated table-land, 250 miles long 
 and about 50 broad, encircled by two great mountain- 
 chains, the Blue Ridge on the E. and the Great Smoky 
 on the W., and traversed by cross-chains that run 
 directly across the country, and from which spurs of 
 greater or lesser height lead off in all directions. Of 
 these transverse ranges there are four: the Black, the 
 Balsam, the Cullowhee, and the Nantahala. 
 
 Between each lies a region of valleys, formed by 
 the noble rivers and their minor tributaries. 
 
 Clingman s Dome rises to the height of 6,660 ft. 
 Mount Mitchell, the loftiest summit E. of the Missis 
 sippi, is the dominating peak of the Black Mountain 
 group of the colossal heights, the most famous of the 
 transverse ranges. With its two great branches it is 
 over 20 miles long, and its rugged sides are covered 
 with a wilderness of almost impenetrable forest. Above 
 a certain elevation, no trees are found save the balsam- 
 
219 
 
 fir, from the dark color of which the mountain takes its 
 name. N. of the Black Mountain stand two famous 
 heights, these are the Grandfather Mountain in the 
 Blue Ridge and Roan Mountain in the Smoky. 
 
 The Balsam, which in length and general magni 
 tude is chief of the cross ranges, is 50 miles long, and 
 its peaks average 6,000 ft. in height. From its S. 
 extremity two great spurs run out in a northerly direc 
 tion j one terminates in the Cold Mountain, which is 
 over 6,000 ft. high, and the other in the beautiful 
 peak of Pisgah, which is one of the most noted land 
 marks of the region. 
 
 Asheville, situated in the lovely valley of the 
 French Broad River, 2,250 ft. above the sea, sur 
 rounded by an amphitheatre of hills, commands one of 
 the finest mountain- views in America. 
 
 Morgantown is a popular resort, and is situated on 
 the slopes of the Blue Ridge, 1,100 ft. above the sea. 
 About 15 miles W. of Morgantown on the Glen Alpine 
 Springs with Lithia waters, and 25 miles from the 
 former is the Grand Linville Gorge, where the Lin- 
 ville River bursts through the massive barrier of the 
 Linville Mountains. 
 
 Resuming my journey per Western North Carolina 
 R. R., I arrived at Raleigh, the capital of the State, 
 with 8,000 inhabitants, situated on an elevation 6 
 miles W. of the Neuse River and a little N. E. of the 
 center of the State. 
 
 The State House is built after the model of the Par 
 thenon. The U. S. Custom House and Post Office, 
 
220 
 
 the State Geological Museum, the Institution for the 
 Deaf and .Dumb, the State Insane Asylum, and the 
 Penitentiary are fine structures. 
 
 North Carolina, the "Old North State/ 7 or "Tar 
 State," is one of the 13 original States and was dis 
 covered by Lord Raleigh, 1584, settled by the English 
 at Albemarle, 1650; seceded, May, 1861; re-admitted, 
 June, 1868. 
 
 Area, 52,250 square miles; length, 450 miles; 
 breadth, 185 miles; coast line, over 400 miles; area 
 dismal swamp, 150,000 acres. 
 
 Temperature at Wilmington: winter, 46 to 51; 
 summer, 76 to 80. Frost seldom occurs before 
 November. Rainfall at Gaston, 43 inches. Deaths by 
 consumption, 1.5, per 1,000 of population. 
 
 Wilmington, principal seaport and chief city, with 
 13,446 population. Charlotte contains assay office. 
 
 Farms in 1860, 75,203, increased to 157,609 in 
 1880; average value per acre, cleared land, $9.77; 
 woodland, $5.53. 
 
 Agriculture the leading industry ; corn the most 
 valuable crop; tobacco the leading product, and orch 
 ards very productive. Ranks first in tar and turpen 
 tine, and second in copper. Number of different in 
 dustries, 3,802; flour and grist-mills, 1,313; saw 
 mills, 776. About 3,000 boats are engaged in general 
 fisheries. 
 
 Population, 1,399,750, with 531,278 Colored, and 
 1,230 Indians. Slaves, 1860, 331,059. 
 
 Public school system adopted 1840; at present 
 
221 
 
 over 2,000 public schools in operation; school age, 
 6-21. 
 
 The road to Richmond, Virginia, is admirably 
 pretty. The scenery and the distant mountain ranges, 
 changing their contures, the farther one proceeds, is of 
 an extraordinary brilliancy, and many lovely little 
 places, dense forests, and well-cultivated fields and 
 meadows are passed before Richmond is reached. 
 
 This metropolis of the State of Virginia and its 
 capital is situated on the N. bank of the James river, 
 about 100 miles from Chesapeake Bay. It is built on 
 several eminences, the principal of which are : separated 
 by Shockoe Creek, Church and Shockoe Hills, sur 
 rounded by beautiful scenery. 
 
 Richmond was founded 1737, incorporated 1742, 
 and became the State capital in 1779, when it was a 
 small village. 
 
 In 1861 great prominence was given to it as the 
 capital of the Southern Confederacy, and one of the 
 great aims of the Federal authorities, throughout 
 the war, was to reduce it into their possession. Strong 
 lines of earth-works were drawn around the place by 
 the Confederates, and are yet to be seen. When 
 General Lee evacuated Petersburg, April 2d, 1865, the 
 troops defending Richmond on the E. were withdrawn, 
 and to prevent the tobacco warehouses and public stores 
 from falling into the hands of the Federals, the build 
 ings, together with the bridges over the James river, 
 were fired. This resulted in the destruction of a large 
 part of the business section of the city, the number of 
 
222 
 
 buildings destroyed having been estimated at 1,000, 
 and the loss at $8,000,000. 
 
 With the cessation of hostilities, the burned quar 
 ters were rebuilt, and at present Richmond is surpass 
 ing its former prosperity, 
 
 In 1880, the population was 63,803. The com 
 merce is very large, the chief articles of export being 
 tobacco and flour. The manufactures include iron 
 works, machine-shops, foundries, sugar-refineries, cigar- 
 factories, furniture, sheetings and shirtings, coach and 
 wagon-factories and stoneware. 
 
 The most conspicuous object in the city, is the 
 State Capitol. The plan for the building was furnished 
 by Thomas Jefferson, and is after the Maison carree at 
 Nismes, in France. In the State Library are 40,000 
 volumes. The equestrian statue of Washington, sur 
 rounded by bronze figures of famous Americans is of 
 a colossal size and is one of the finest bronzes in the 
 world. 
 
 The Historical Society Collections, and not far 
 from it, the life-size marble statue of Henry Clay, and 
 the statue of General " Stonewall Jackson, of heroic 
 size, are well worth seeing. 
 
 The Medical College, Richmond College and the 
 Southern Female Institute, are famous schools of learn 
 ing. The Brockenbrough House, formerly the resi 
 dence of Jefferson Davis, President of the Southern 
 Confederacy, is now used as a school-house. The 
 Almshouse, State Penitentiary and the Mozart Academy 
 of Music are fine edifices, as are the Churches St. 
 
223 
 
 John s (Episcopal), Monumental Church and St. Paul s 
 (also Episcopal). 
 
 Libby Prison and Belle Isle retain some interest as 
 military prisons during the late civil war. 
 
 Of the several cemeteries of Richmond, Hollywood 
 is the principal, in it lay the remains of President 
 Monroe and of President Tyler. In the soldiers sec 
 tion rise<s a monumental pyramid in honor of the dead. 
 5 bridges across the river connect Richmond with 
 Spring Hill and Manchester, the latter a pretty town 
 with 2 fine cotton-mills. The Tredegar Iron- Works, 
 which were the great cannon manufactory of the Con 
 federacy, are worth a visit, covering over 15 acres of 
 ground, and the Gallego and Haxall Flour-Mills are 
 among the largest in the world. 
 
 A few hours ride from the city bring the traveler 
 to several battle-fields and National Cemeteries. 
 
 Boarding a train of the Wilmington and Florence 
 E. R., and crossing the James River, the well built 
 city of Petersburg was reached. It it situated at the 
 head of navigation on the Appomattox River, 12 miles 
 above its entrance into the James. Its trade is large j 
 tobacco, wheat, corn, cotton and general country pro 
 duce, the chief business. In 1880, Petersburg had 
 23,000 population. There are some fine public buildings. 
 
 Petersburg was the scene of the last great struggles 
 during the late civil war and is now prospering. 
 
 Norfolk was next visited. The city is pleasantly 
 situated on the N. bank of the Elizabeth River, 8 miles 
 from Hampton Roads and 32 miles from the ocean. 
 
224 
 
 After Richmond it is the most populous city in the 
 State, with 26,000 inhabitants and a large trade. 
 Oysters, early fruits and vegetables arrive here in 
 large quantities, and are shipped to Northern ports. 
 Its harbor is defended by Fortress Monroe and the 
 Eip Raps, this Fortress being the largest in America 
 and having Hampton in its vicinity, where the National 
 Soldiers Home and the Normal and Agricultural Insti 
 tute for colored people and Indians, the most interest 
 ing institutions in the country, are located. 9 miles 
 from Fortress Monroe, on Hampton Roads, is Newport 
 News, famous for the great historic interest in connec 
 tion with the Revolutionary War and the late Civil 
 War. 
 
 The city of Norfolk is irregularly laid out, but the 
 streets are generally wide and the houses well built; 
 some of its churches very fine structures. Norfolk 
 was founded in 1682, incorporated in 1705 and burned 
 by the British in 1776. In 1855 the city was severely 
 visited by yellow fever and played a prominent part in 
 the first year of the civil war, when it was captured by 
 Virginians and became the chief naval depot of the 
 Confederacy. Off Norfolk, on March 8, 1862, was 
 fought the memorable engagement between the Con 
 federate iron-clad Virginia and the Federal iron-clad 
 Monitor, which marks one of the most notable epochs 
 in naval warfare and changed the course of naval con 
 struction throughout the world. Opposite Norfolk, 
 connected by ferry, is Portsmouth, a city of 11,388 in 
 habitants, and one of the best harbors on the Atlantic 
 
225 
 
 coast. At Gosport, the S. extremity of the city, is a 
 U. S. Navy Yard, and near by is the U. S. Naval Hos 
 pital. At the time of the secession of Virginia, April 
 18, 1861, nearly 1,000 men were employed at the Navy 
 Yard. Two days afterward it was destroyed by fire, 
 with property valued at several million dollars, includ 
 ing 11 war-vessels. 
 
 On a rather weary some journey I arrived at Lynch- 
 burg, important from the lines of railway which center 
 here. The city has 15,000 inhabitants and does a 
 great business in tobacco and other manufactures. It 
 lies on the S. bank of James river and has an inexhaus 
 tible water-power. About 20 miles in the background 
 rises the Blue Eidge, together with the Peaks of Otter, 
 which are in full view. In the neighborhood are vast 
 fields of coal and iron-ore, and the celebrated Botetourt 
 Iron-works are not far distant. 
 
 On the pretty long tour from here to Fredericks- 
 burg, I passed well cultivated and rich agricultural 
 regions and mining districts. The city, quaint and 
 old, is situated on the S. bank of the Rappahannock 
 river, and is noted as being the scene of one of the 
 severest battles of the civil war, fought December 13, 
 1862, in which General Burnside was defeated by 
 General Lee. 11 miles W. of Fredericksburg, on the 
 E. edge of "The Wilderness/ the battle of Chancellors- 
 ville, in which "Stonewall" Jackson lost his life, 
 was fought May 2-4, 1863. Southward from Chan- 
 cellorsville is Spottsylvania Court-House, where in 
 
 May, 1864, were fought some of the bloodiest battles 
 
 15 
 
226 
 
 of General Grant s campaign on his way to Rich 
 mond. 
 
 Just outside the limits of Fredericksburg an unfin 
 ished monument, begun in 1833, marks the tomb of 
 the mother of Washington, who died here in 1789. It 
 was in the vicinity of Fredericksburg that Washington 
 himself was born, and here he passed his early years. 
 At Hanover Junction, 37 miles from Fredericksburg, 
 another battle was fought between General Grant and 
 General Lee in May, 1864. 
 
 At Alexandria, 7 miles below Washington, on the 
 S. side of the Potomac, I received the sad news of the 
 death of the Ex-President of the United States, Gen 
 eral Grant, and having had the honor to be personally 
 acquainted with the "Hero" of many battles, I has 
 tened to New York to attend at his funeral. 
 
 The city of Alexandria dates from 1784 and is in 
 timately associated with the life and name of Wash 
 ington. In Christ Church the pew No. 59, in whicli 
 he sat, is an object of much interest. Pew No. 46 was 
 occupied by General Robert E. Lee when he resided 
 at Arlington before the war. The Museum, Court 
 House and Thelogical Seminary are among the prom 
 inent buildings, and on the outskirts of the city is a 
 National Cemetery, in which nearly 4,000 soldiers are 
 buried. 
 
 The State of Virginia, "The Old Dominion, was 
 named in honor of Elizabeth, the Virgin Queen. It is 
 one of the 13 original States. Settled by the English at 
 Jamestown, 1607. Slavery introduced 1619. Seceded 
 
227 
 
 May, 1861; re-admitted, January, 1870. Area, 42,450 
 square miles 5 greatest length, east and west, 440 miles ; 
 greatest breadth, 190 miles. Coast line, about 120 
 miles, or tidal frontage, 1,500 miles. 
 
 Temperature at Norfolk: winter, 40 to 48; 
 summer, 75 to 80. Kainfall at White Sulphur 
 Springs, 38 inches. 
 
 Number of farms, 118,517 ; 51 percent, of laborers 
 are engaged in agriculture. Average value per acre, 
 cleared land, $9.42; woodland, $7.48. 
 
 Marble quarried on Potomac. Number of sand 
 stone quarries, 10; ship-building establishments, 65; 
 saw-mills, 907; flour and grist-mills, 1,385. 
 
 Gold produced 1882, $15,000. Eanks first in pea 
 nuts, and second in tobacco. 
 
 Population, incl. 631,616 colored, 6 Chinese and 85 
 Indians, 1,512,565. 
 
 U. S. Army and non-taxpayers of capitation tax ex 
 cluded from voting. 
 
 Number of colleges, 7; school population, 555,807; 
 school age, 5-21. 
 
 The "Pan Handle State," West Virginia, has only 
 been slightly explored by me, the few cities and other 
 places which 1 visited did not offer any important 
 features, and I was compelled to rely on the informations 
 received from various sources. 
 
 West Virginia is composed of northern and western 
 counties of the original State of Virginia; denounced 
 passage of secession ordinance, April 22, 1861, and be 
 came a State, 1863. 
 
228 
 
 Area, 24,780 square miles; greatest length, north 
 and south, about 240 miles ; greatest breadth, 160 
 miles. Big Sandy, Great and Little Kanawha, Guy- 
 andotte, and Monongahela are navigable rivers. 
 
 Temperature at Morgantown: winter, 34 to 42; 
 summer, 70 to 75. Rainfall at Romney, 45 inches. 
 
 Charleston, capital, has 4, 192 inhabitants and some 
 trade. The metropolis of the State is Wheeling, its 
 population about 35,000. The trade on the Ohio 
 river is very important in this city and there are many 
 manufactures of iron-works, nail-mills, and glass-works. 
 The National Road crosses the Ohio here by a graceful 
 suspension bridge, 1,010 ft. long, and the railroad 
 bridge below the city is one of the finest in the country. 
 There are several fine buildings, formerly occupied by 
 the State Government, in Wheeling. 
 
 Parkersburg is a port of delivery, and has 6,500 
 inhabitants and an important trade especially in petro 
 leum. 
 
 The bridge crossing the Ohio, 1J miles long, 
 to Belpre, is said to be one of the most magnificent 
 bridges in the United States. 
 
 Martinsburg, with 6,335 inhabitants, is pleasantly 
 situated on an elevated plateau above Tuscarora Creek, 
 which affords a fine water-power. Much fighting oc- 
 cured in this vicinity during the civil war, and in June, 
 1861, the Confederates destroyed 87 locomotives and 
 400 cars belonging to the railroad company. 
 
 Number of farms, 62,674. Average value per acre, 
 cleared land, $21.05; woodland, $9.39. 61 per cent. 
 
229 
 
 of laborers engaged in agriculture. Staples are tobacco, 
 wheat and corn, the last being the most valuable crop. 
 Iron ore yields 50 to 80 per cent, pure metal. Petro 
 leum is extensively produced in Ritchie, Pleasants, 
 Wood and AVirt counties. 
 
 Population, 618,457, including 25,886 Colored, and 
 29 Indians. Slaves in 1860, 18,371. 
 
 Flourishing free school system 5 school population, 
 216,605; school age, 6-21. 
 
 After a brief stay in New York I started anew, to 
 explore the State of, Connecticut, and visiting Bridge 
 port, a prosperous city of 30,000 population, situated 
 on an arm of the Long Island Sound, and famous for its 
 many manufactures in sewing machines, leather, car 
 riages, arms, cutlery and locks, I proceeded to New 
 Haven, the largest city of Connecticut, at the head of 
 the New Haven Bay, on a broad plain surrounded by 
 rolling hills. It is the centre of 5 railroads, has a large 
 coasting trade and considerable foreign commerce, 
 chiefly with the West Indies. Its manufactures are very 
 large, including hardware, locks, clocks, machinery, fire 
 arms, carriages, jewelry, pianos, and India-rubber goods. 
 
 Population, 62,882. New Haven contains a great 
 many charitable institutions. 
 
 The Medical College is considered to be of high 
 standing. Yale College is one of the most important 
 and oldest educational institutions in America, founded 
 in 1700 and established at New Haven in 1717. The 
 Gothic library in the College contains 140,000 volumes. 
 The Winchester Observatory contains a 6-inch helio- 
 
230 
 
 meter, and an 8-inch equatorial instrument. In the 
 Peabody Museum are the collections of the University 
 in geology, mineralogy, and the natural sciences, in 
 cluding the famous collection of Professor Marsh. 
 
 There are very handsome public and private build 
 ings in this city. 
 
 Beyond New Haven, 37 miles distant, is the capital 
 of Connecticut, Hartford, situated on the Connecticut 
 River. Its population in 1880 was 42,553 and it is the 
 centre of fire and life insurances in the Union. The 
 manufactures are very extensive, and include brass- 
 ware and iron, steam-engines, tools, machinery, sewing- 
 machines, fire-arms, silver-plated ware, woolens, etc. 
 The State House is marvellously pretty, and the State 
 library in that building is one of the largest law-libraries 
 in America. The Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb, 
 founded 1817, was the first institution of the kind in 
 America, and the other State and Municipal charitable 
 institutions in the city are also famous. The Connect 
 icut Historical Society has a good collection of paintings, 
 statuary and books. Some of the churches in the city 
 are very pretty. Trinity College, (in the course of 
 erection when I was there) will be a handsomely adorned 
 architecture. In the S. E. portion of the city, located 
 on the banks of Connecticut River, is the famous Colt 
 Fire- Arms Manufactory. "Mark Twain s, 7 residence 
 is also here. 
 
 After a few more excursions to almost all parts of 
 the State, I continued my voyage to the smallest State 
 in the Union, Rhode Island. 
 
231 
 
 Connecticut, the "Nutmeg State," has its name from 
 the Indian word, signifying "Long River." It is one 
 of the 13 original States, the first settlement (permanent) 
 was made by the English at Hartford, 1635. 
 
 Area, 4,990 square miles ; average length, 86 
 miles; average breadth, 55 miles; sea-coast, over 100 
 miles. Principal river valleys: Thames, Connecticut 
 and Housatonic. Most important harbors : Bridge 
 port, New Haven, New London, Saybrook and Ston- 
 ington. 
 
 Temperature at New Haven : winter, 27 to 40 5 
 summer, 68 to 74; rainfall, 44 inches. 
 
 Waterbury is an important manufacturing city 
 with 17,806 inhabitants. Fairfield, Middletown, New 
 Haven, New London and Stonington are ports of 
 entry. 
 
 Number of farms, 30,598; average value per acre, 
 cleared land, $29.00; woodland, $24.50. Number of 
 different industries, 4,488. Ranks first in clocks, 
 third in silk goods. 
 
 Population, 622,700, incl. 11,547 Colored, 123 Chi 
 nese, 6 Japanese and 225 Indians. 
 
 Those unable to read are excluded from voting. 
 Number of colleges, 3, having about 160,000 volumes 
 in their libraries. School age 4-16. 
 
 I found myself now in Newport, one of the two capi 
 tals of the State of Rhode Island; the other being Provi 
 dence. Newport is one of the most fashionable and 
 frequented of all the American summer resorts, it is 
 situated on the W. shore of Rhode Island and on Nar- 
 
232 
 
 ragansett Bay, 5 miles from the ocean. It is a port of 
 entry and was settled in 1637, incorporated in 1700. 
 Sumptuous mansions and charming villas lie along the 
 terraces which overlook the sea. 
 
 Of curiosities there are too many in this place to 
 describe them minutely and I will only mention a few, 
 /. i.j the Touro Park with the Old Stone Mill, also called 
 the Round Tower, the old State House, founded in 
 1739, the Jewish Synagogue, erected in 1762, the ven 
 erable Trinity Church, the Redwood Library, contain 
 ing 20,000 volumes, paintings and statuary, the His 
 torical Society, with a fine collection of colonial relics, 
 and the Free Library, containing 15,000 volumes. 
 
 The surf-bathing in Newport is unsurpassed and 
 there are 3 fine beaches. 
 
 The drives in and around Newport are of unusual 
 elegance, and numerous lovely spots, such as caves, 
 glens, ponds and hills ornament the place. 3J miles 
 from the city is Fort Adams with 460 guns, one of the 
 largest and strongest fortresses in America. 
 
 Goat Island, opposite the city wharves, is the head 
 quarters of the torpedo division of the U. S. Naval 
 Service. Lime Rock, in the harbor beyond Goat 
 Island, is famous as the home of Ida Lewis. 
 
 In Narragansett Pier I found the same sea-sight 
 life as in Newport, and made a trip to the second capi 
 tal of the State, Providence. In wealth and population, 
 Providence is the second city of New England and the 
 chief in the State. 
 
 It is picturesquely situated on the northern arm of 
 
233 
 
 Narragansett Bay, known as Providence river. Provi 
 dence was founded in 1636 by Roger Williams, who 
 had been banished from Massachusetts on account of his 
 religious opinions. In 1880 the population was 104,- 
 850. The manufacturers in this city are very exten 
 sive, including cotton and woolen goods, iron, prints, 
 and jewelry, some of these are of world fame, as for 
 instance, the Gorham Company s silver-ware factory, 
 the Providence Tool Company s works, and the Steam 
 Engine Company s, and Corliss Steam Engine Works. 
 60 wool and 100 cotton mills centre in this city. 
 
 Of public buildings worth mentioning, are the City 
 Hall, the County Court House, the Brown University, 
 founded in 1764 and containing over 50,000 volumes, 
 and many others. The Rhode Island Historical So 
 ciety has a valuable library and some interesting his 
 torical relics. 
 
 The Athenaeum contains a library of 38,000 vol 
 umes and some valuable paintings. 
 
 The Soldiers and Sailors Monument erected by 
 the State in memory of its 1,741 citizens who fell in 
 the civil war is an exceedingly fine structure. Of 
 charitable and educational institutions there is an 
 abundance in Providence. The drives in the suburbs, 
 etc., are very pretty. On the State Farm in Cranston 
 are the State Prison, Workhouse, House of Correction, 
 Almshouse and the Hospital for the Insane. 
 
 Rhode Island, " Little Rhody," is one of the 13 
 original States and smallest in the Union 5 supposed 
 temporary settlement by Icelanders as early as 1000 5 
 
234 
 
 settled by Roger Williams at Providence, 1636; last of 
 the 13 colonies to ratify the Constitution, which it did 
 in 1790. 
 
 Area, 1,250 square miles; extreme length, north 
 and south, 47 miles; extreme width, 40 miles. Good 
 harbors at Providence, Bristol, Warren and Newport, 
 the latter one of the finest in the world. 
 
 Temperature at Newport: winter, 29 to 43 ; 
 summer, 64 to 71; rainfall, 42 inches. 
 
 U. S. customs districts at Newport, Providence, 
 Bristol and Warren. Population of Lincoln, 17,269; of 
 Pawtucket, 22,894; of Warwick, 13,284, and of 
 Woonsocket, 16,145. 
 
 Number of farms, 6,216. Hay is the most valua 
 ble crop. It outranks, in proportion to its size, all 
 other States in value of manufactures. Number of 
 looms, 30,274; spindles, 1,649,295, using 161,694 
 bales of cotton and giving employment to 22,228 
 persons. Ranks second in cotton, flax and linen 
 goods. 
 
 Population, 303,816, incl. 7,127 Colored, 27 
 Chinese, and 77 Indians. 
 
 Persons without property to the value of $134, ex 
 cluded from voting. 
 
 Number of colleges, 1 ; Browns University, at 
 Providence, founded 1764; common school system ex 
 cellent; school age, 5-15. 
 
 Resuming my journey, I arrived at the capital of 
 Massachusetts and chief city of New England, the 
 pretty city of Boston, situated at the W. extremity of 
 
235 
 
 Massachusetts Bay, in latitude 42 N. and longitude 
 71 W. 
 
 The first white inhabitant of Boston was the Rev. 
 John Blackstone, arrived in 1623. In 1635 Mr. 
 Blaekstone sold his claim to the peninsula, on which 
 Boston proper stands, to John Winthrop, afterward the 
 first Governor of Massachusetts for 30, and removed 
 to Rhode Island. The first church was built in 1632 ; 
 the first wharf in 1673. 
 
 The city was incorporated in 1822, with a popu 
 lation of 45,000, which had increased to 362,839 (in 
 cluding the suburbs of Brighton, Charleston and W. 
 Roxbury) in 1880. On the 9th of November 1872, 
 one of the most terrible conflagrations ever known in 
 America, swept away the principal business portion of 
 Boston. The district burnt over extended from the 
 heart of the city to the harbor. About 775 of the 
 finest buildings were destroyed, causing a loss of $70,- 
 000,000. 
 
 The Indian name of the peninsula was Shawm ut, 
 meaning " Sweet Waters." It was called by the ear 
 lier settlers Trimountain or Tremont. It embraces 
 Boston proper, East Boston, South Boston, Roxbury, 
 Dorchester, Charleston, Brighton and West Roxbury, 
 containing in all about 22,000 acres. The city is con 
 nected by several bridges with the above mentioned 
 places. The harbor is a spacious indentation of Massa 
 chusetts Bay, embracing 75 square miles, including 
 several arms. There are more than 50 islands or islets 
 in the harbor. 
 
236 
 
 The Common, a park in the heart of the city, con 
 sidered to date from 1634, is a very attractive spot 
 with the ancient and historic Frog Pond, the Soldiers 
 monument, and several fine fountains on the grounds. 
 The Public Garden contains Washington s noble eques 
 trian statue, the statues of Edward Everett, Charles Sum- 
 ner, and of u Venus rising from the Sea," and the monu 
 ment in honor of the discovery of ether as an anaes 
 thetic. 
 
 The State House, on whose terrace in the front are 
 statues of Daniel Webster and Horace Mann, and on 
 the entrance floor the statue of Governor Andrew r , 
 busts of Samuel Adams, Lincoln and Sumner and a 
 collection of battle-flags, and in the Rotunda the statue 
 of Washington, copies of the tombstones of the 
 Washington family in Brington church-yard, England, 
 is a very fine building. 
 
 The Anthenseum is one of the best endowed institu 
 tions in the world, and the library of the American Ac 
 ademy of Arts and Sciences, in the same building, con 
 tains 15,000 volumes. On Louisburg Square are statues 
 of Columbus and Aristides, and the Park Square contains 
 the bronze group, "Emancipation." 
 
 The Society of Natural History has valuable cabin 
 ets and a library of 12,000 volumes, the Boston Public 
 Library 450,000, and the famous Tosti collection of 
 engravings. The Museum of Fine Arts contains 
 Egyptian antiquities, statuary, casts and one of the 
 richest collections of paintings and engravings in the 
 country. The Masonic Temple, the Massachusetts 
 
237 
 
 Charitable Mechanics Association Building, and the 
 New England Manufacturers and Mechanics Institute, 
 and the Institute of Technology, deserve to be men 
 tioned. 
 
 There are numerous churches in Boston, and the 
 Trinity Church (Episcopal), is one of the largest, finest, 
 and most splendidly decorated cfiurches in America, 
 the Catholic Cathedral of the Holy Cross, and the old 
 and new South Churches rank next to it. 
 
 Faneuil Hall is the most interesting building in the 
 Union, next to Independence Hall, Philadelphia. This 
 famous edifice, the u cradle of liberty," was erected in 
 1742 and presented to the town by Peter Faneuil, a 
 Hugnenot merchant. Destroyed by fire in 1761, it 
 was rebuilt in 1768 and enlarged to its present dimensi 
 ons in 1805. In it are the portraits of the founder, 
 Washington, Samuel Adams, J. C. Adams, Webster, 
 Everett, Lincoln, Governor Andrew, Henry Wilson, 
 Charles Sunnier. The U. S. Custom House, the City 
 Hall, with statues of Benjamin Franklin and Quincy, 
 the New Post Office and Sub-Treasury, not yet com 
 pleted, Horticultural Hall, Odd-Fellows Hall, Music 
 Hall, with 3,000 seats, and several business buildings 
 are fine and spacious structures. There are a great many 
 public and private educational institutions in Boston. 
 
 Boston University, founded in 1869 by Isaac Rich, 
 bequeated by this Philanthropist with $2,000,000, is 
 well-known, arid the new building of the Young Men s 
 Christian Association is considered to be the finest of 
 its kind in the world. The Massachusetts Historical 
 
238 
 
 Society has a library of 25,000 volumes, manuscripts, 
 coins, maps, charts, portraits and historical relics. 
 
 On the old North Burying-Ground, on Copp s Hill, 
 lie the three fathers of the Puritan Church, Drs. In 
 crease, Cotton, and Samuel Mather. 
 
 Of charitable institutions there are too many in Bos 
 ton to be specially named. 
 
 The Soldiers Home is located in Chelsea, and near 
 by is the U. S. Naval Hospital. 
 
 The environs of Boston are remarkably artractive. 
 Charlestown, Brighton, Jamaica Plain, and W. Roxbury, 
 Dorchester and Roxbury were annexed and now form 
 part of the city. At Charlestown is the famous 
 u Bunker Hill Monument," commemorative of the 
 eventful battle fought on the spot, June 17, 1775. The 
 U. S. Navy- Yard is also located here. Nantasket 
 Beach is a celebrated summer resort in the vicinity. 
 
 In Brookline is the Brookline Reservoir, and about 
 1 mile distant from here, the Chestnut Hill Reservoir, 
 both with colossal capacities. 
 
 Cambridge, one of the two most renowned of the 
 American academic cities, contains the Harvard Uni 
 versity, the oldest and most richly endowed institution 
 of learning in the United States. Its library numbers 
 160,000 volumes. Near the college yard are the Zoo 
 logical Museum, the Botanical Garden, containing a 
 valuable herbarium and the Observatory. 
 
 On the Common, near by, stands a monument in 
 honor of the soldiers who fell in the civil war, and not 
 far from it, the Shepard Memorial Church, erected in 
 
_ 239 
 
 lionor of Thomas Shepard, who was pastor at Cam 
 bridge from 1635 to 1649. 
 
 In front of the latter is the famous Washington Elm, 
 beneath which Washington assumed the command of 
 the American army in 1775, and which is thought to 
 be 300 years old. Many structures built before the 
 Revolution are still standing, among them the house 
 used by Washington for his headquarters and recently 
 inhabited by the poet Longfellow, and Elmwood, the 
 home of James Russell Lowell. Mount Auburn Ceme 
 tery is one of the most beautiful and ancient burial- 
 places in America. 
 
 Waltham, 10 miles distant from Boston, a nourish 
 ing manufacturing village, of 11,711 inhabitants, on 
 the Charles River, is noted as the site of the Waltham 
 Watch Company 7 s Works, which are the most extensive 
 in the world. The first cotton-mill in the U. S. was 
 erected at Waltham in 1814. 
 
 I made Boston my headquarters for the frequent 
 excursions to different parts of this State and the 
 neighboring State of New Hampshire, beginning with 
 the exploration of the cotton-manufacture region. 
 
 After visiting Lowell with 59,485 inhabitants, situ 
 ated on the Merrimac, at the mouth of the Concord, 
 and one of the most noted manufacturing cities in the 
 Union and whose prosperity is ascribed to the water 
 power from the Pawtucket Falls in the Merrimac, I 
 started for Lawrence, also a very prosperous large 
 manufacturing city with 39,178 inhabitants and great 
 water power from the Merrimac. Its leading manufact- 
 
240 
 
 ures are cotton cloth, woolens, shawls, paper, files and 
 flour. The vast mills are separated by a canal which 
 distributes the water power. 
 
 South Lawrence across the river is a busy manu 
 facturing suburb. 
 
 Fall Kiver was next visited. It contains* 49,006 
 population and extensive manufactures of cotton-cloth, 
 there being more spindles in operation than in any 
 other American city. 
 
 Taunton, another nourishing manufacturing city 
 with 21,213 inhabitants, and Qaincy, a beautiful old 
 town, noteworthy as the home of the Adams and Quincy 
 families, followed, and after collecting authentic statistics 
 about the cotton and wool industries in that region, I 
 travelled to the boot and shoe manufacturing district. 
 
 Lynn, with 45,861 inhabitants, situated on the 
 shore of Massachusetts Bay and surrounded by pleasing 
 sceneries, is famous for its extensive manufactures of 
 boots and shoes, it also contains a costly Soldiers 
 Monument and a very fine City Hall. 
 
 Worcester, the second city in Massachusetts in 
 wealth and population, is a vast manufacturing centre, 
 also a great railroad centre. Its population is now 
 estimated at 75,000. Its principal manufactures are of 
 boots and shoes, machinery and tools, a great variety of 
 metal and wood products, stone-ware, jewelry, carpets, 
 etc. 
 
 The principal staple is iron and steel wire, which in 
 2 establishments alone gives employment to over 4,000 
 workmen. 
 
241 
 
 The city is regularly laid out with wide streets and 
 the Union R. R. Depot is one of the largest in New 
 England. The American Antiquarian Society contains 
 a library of 60,000 volumes and a valuable cabinet of 
 antiquities, and the Free Public Library 70,000 volumes. 
 
 The Lyceum and Natural History Society has inter 
 esting collections. The Worcester Academy, the Oread 
 Institute for young ladies, the Highland Military 
 Academy, the State Normal School, the Catholic College 
 of the Holy Cross, and the Free Institute of Industrial 
 Science are institutions of great fame, and the State 
 Lunatic Asylum, a vast stone structure of great 
 dimensions. 
 
 The beautifully situated city of Haverhill ranks in 
 its leading industry of shoemaking next to Lynn. The 
 city contains 18,475 inhabitants and a library of 
 20,000 volumes. 1 mile N. E. of Haverhill is Lake 
 Kenoza, a pretty little lake, named and celebrated by 
 the poet Whittier, who was born in Haverhill in 1807. 
 
 After a brief stay in Boston to which I had returned, 
 I went to Springfield, noted for its great variety of its 
 industries. In 1880 its population was 33,340, it is 
 situated on the Connecticut river, is well built, and its 
 wide streets are shaded with elms and maples. The 
 U. S. Arsenal, the Court House and the building of the 
 City Library (with 48,000 volumes, and a Museum of 
 Natural History), and the City Hall, containing a pub 
 lic hall seating 2,700 persons, are well worth visiting. 
 The Arsenal is the greatest in the United States. 
 
 There are also some fine churches in Worcester. 
 
 16 
 
242 
 
 From Boston, 16 miles distant, is the venerable 
 town of Salem with 28,000 inhabitants, the site of the 
 first permanent settlement of the old Massachusetts col 
 ony. The year 1692 is remarkable in the history of 
 the city, being the date of the witchcraft delusion at 
 Salem village, now a part of Danvers, for which several 
 persons were tried and executed. In the Court-House 
 are deposited the documents that relate to these curious 
 trials. The house is still standing in which some of 
 the preliminary examinations were made. The place 
 of execution is in the western part of the city, an em 
 inence overlooking the city, harbor and surrounding 
 shores, and known as Gallows Hill. Plummer Hall is 
 a handsome building, containing the library of the Salem 
 Athena3um (14,000 volumes), and that of the Essex 
 Institute (25,000 volumes, and a large collection of 
 manuscripts, pamphlets, and various historical relics). 
 East India Marine Hall contains the large and rare 
 ethnological museum of the East India Marine Society, 
 and rare natural history collections of the Essex Insti 
 tute. Peabody Institute, in which are deposited many 
 interesting works of art, and the various memorials of 
 the founder, the great Philanthropist, George Peabody, 
 of which may be mentioned the portrait of Queen Vic 
 toria, the Congress Medal, etc. A short distance from 
 the Institute is the house in which Mr. Peabody was 
 born, and in Harmony Grove Cemetery not far from 
 there is his grave. 
 
 Amherst, noted for its college, is charmingly situ 
 ated. Its population is 4,000, and the leading interest 
 
243 
 
 paper manufacturing. Amherst College was founded 
 in 1821, and is one of the high-standing institutions of 
 New England. The college collections in zoology, 
 botany, geology, mineralogy, etc., are among the rich 
 est in the country. The Shepard cabinet of minerals 
 is of immense value and is said to be surpassed only 
 by those of the British Museum and the Imperial Cab 
 inet at Vienna; and the collection of 20,000 specimens 
 of ancient tracks of birds, beasts and reptiles in stone 
 is without a rival. The Massachusetts Agricultural 
 College possesses the famous Durfee Plant-House, con 
 taining many rare and beautiful plants. It was found 
 ed in 1866 and has become the most successful agri 
 cultural school in the United States. 
 
 On a side-excursion I arrived at Mount Holyoke, 
 the "Gem of the Massachusetts Mountains." From the 
 Prospect House, on the top of this mountain, 1,120 ft. 
 above the sea, and where an observatory is, the view 
 is magnificent. 
 
 Per Boston, Hoosac Tunnel and Western E. R., 
 the famous Hoosac Tunnel, 136 miles from Boston, was 
 reached. It is next to that under Mt. Cenis, the long 
 est in the world, and is one of the most wonderful and 
 costly engineering. 
 
 New Bedford, the greatest whaling port in the 
 world, with 33,393 inhabitants, and Plymouth, a 
 manufacturing village, with 7,000 inhabitants, on Cape 
 Cod Bay, were also visited. The interest of Plymouth 
 is chiefly historical, and it will be forever famous as 
 the landing place of the Pilgrim Fathers, on December 
 
244 
 
 22, 1620, and as the site of the first settlement made in 
 New England. Plymouth Rock, on which the Pilgrims 
 first landed, is covered by a handsome canopy of gra 
 nite, in the attic of which are inclosed the bones of 
 several men who died during the first year of the 
 settlement. A portion of the rock has been placed in 
 front of Pilgrim Hall, and surrounded by an iron fence. 
 Pilgrim Hall contains a large hall, the public library, 
 busts and portraits, and many interesting relics of the 
 Mayflower Pilgrims and other early settlers of Massa 
 chusetts. The National Monument to the Pilgrims 
 consists of a granite pedestal 40 ft. high, surrounded 
 by statues 20 ft. high, and is surmounted by a colossal 
 granite statue of " Faith," 40 ft. high. 
 
 The environs of Plymouth arc very attractive. 
 
 On this occasion I was then in Boston I consider 
 it my sacred duty to pay my tributes of everlasting 
 gratitude to the than Mayor of the City of Boston, Mr. 
 O Brien, to Ex-Governor Robinson, Legislator Resi- 
 novsky, Reverend Schindler, author of several impor 
 tant works, to Professor Morse, whom I had already 
 seen in Japan, to the Secretary of the Imperial German 
 Consulate, Mr. Lagrege, and to several Professors of 
 the Harvard University, especially Professor Asa Gray, 
 whose death is a great loss to the scientific world. 
 
 I cannot find words for the interpretation of my feel 
 ings toward these generous and kind-hearted men, for 
 the hospitality and the many favors shown to me during 
 my stay in Boston. 
 
 Massachusetts, the "Old Bay State, 7 is one of the 
 
245 
 
 13 original States. First settlement made by English 
 Puritans, at Plymouth 1620. 
 
 Area, 8,315 square miles ; length, northeast and 
 southwest, 160 miles, breadth, 47 to 100 miles. 
 
 Temperature at Boston : winter, 27 to 38 ; sum 
 mer, 66 to 71; rainfall, 45 inches. 
 
 Number of farms, 38,406 ; average value per acre, 
 cleared land, $85 ; woodland, $43.25. 
 
 Hay, the most valuable crop. Ranks first in cot 
 ton, woolen and worsted goods, and in cod and 
 mackerel fisheries, owning over half of the fishing ves 
 sels of the U. S., and second in wealth and commerce. 
 
 Population 1,941,465, including 20,361 Colored, 
 229 Chinese, 8 Japanese and 369 Indians. 
 
 Number of quarries, 113; ports of entry, 9; cus 
 toms districts, 11. First American newspaper, Boston, 
 1690; first freight railroad in United States, Quincy; 
 first American library at Harvard College. Number of 
 colleges, 7 ; education compulsory ; schools excellent ; 
 school age, 5-15. 
 
 Nashua was the first place visited in the State of 
 New Hampshire. It it a pretty manufacturing city of 
 13,397 inhabitants, situated at the confluence of the 
 Merrimac and Nashua Rivers. 
 
 17 miles distant from Nashua is the largest city of 
 New Hampshire, Manchester, with a population cf 
 32,630 and extensive manufactures, chiefly of prints. 
 
 The immense factories are on the canal and the 
 water-power is furnished by this canal around the 
 Amoskeag Falls of the Merrimac. The public library 
 
246 
 
 contains 20,000 volumes. In the city are a number of 
 neat public squares and several fine churches. 
 
 9 miles beyond Manchester is Hooksett, with ex 
 tensive brick-yards and several cotton-factories, and at 
 the same distance from the latter, Concord, the capital 
 of New Hampshire, on the sloping W. bank of the 
 Merrimac River, handsomely built and with wide 
 streets and an abundance of trees. Concord is famous 
 for the superior quality of the granite quarried in its 
 vicinity, and its celebrated carriage-manufactories. It 
 contains 18,838 inhabitants, and the State Capitol, 
 City Hall and Court House, the State Prison and the 
 Insane Asylum are beautiful structures. 
 
 The seat of Dartmouth College, one of the most 
 famous institutions of learning in America, is in Hanover. 
 It was founded in 1769; and Daniel Webster, Rufus 
 Choate and Chief Justice Chase w r ere among its alumni. 
 The Reed Hall, one of the group of buildings of the 
 college, contains 50,000 volumes. The college in 
 cludes, besides the literary department, a medical 
 school and the New Hampshire College of Agriculture 
 and the Mechanic Arts. 
 
 I returned from an excursion to Portsmouth, the 
 only seaport of New Hampshire, standing upon a pen 
 insula on the S. side of Piscataqua river, and excepting 
 the narrow strip connecting it with the mainland, is en 
 tirely surrounded by water. The harbor is very deep 
 and in it are several islets. The city is an old tranquil 
 place with beautifully shaded streets and some old and 
 venerable churches and residences. 
 
247 
 
 The tomb of Sir William Pepperell is here. On 
 Continental Island is the U. S. Navy Yard, admirably 
 located. The population is about 13,000. 
 
 The road leading to the neighboring State of Maine, 
 has densely populated districts and well-cultivated farm 
 lands on both sides, as well as factories, etc., and the 
 scenery around Portland has been declared by travelers 
 to be among the most enchanting in the world. 
 
 Portland, the commercial metropolis of Maine, 
 picturesquely situated on a high peninsula at the S. W. 
 extremity of Casco Bay, is one of the most beautiful 
 cities in America. It was settled in 1632, and has had 
 a steady growth ; but on the 4th of July, 1866, a great 
 fire swept away half the business portion, destroying 
 over $10,000,000 worth of property. The entire dis- 
 drict destroyed by the fire has since been rebuilt. The 
 streets are profusely embellished with trees and the 
 population in 1880, was 33,810. The City Hall is 
 considered one of the largest and finest municipal struc 
 tures in the country. 
 
 The Post Office, Custom House, Marine Hospital 
 and some of the churches are imposing edifices. The 
 Society of Natural History has a fine collection of fishes, 
 birds, reptiles, shells and minerals; the library, 15,000 
 volumes. From the Observatory, on Munjoy s Hill, fine 
 views are obtained and the drives around the city are 
 excellent. The harbor is deep and spacious and is 
 dotted with lovely islands, and defended by 3 powerful 
 forts. 
 
 From here, the capital of Maine, Augusta, is 62 
 
248 
 
 miles distant, and reached per Main Central and Knox 
 and Lincoln Railway. The first important place on 
 this road is Brunswick, a thriving town at the head of 
 tide-water on the Androscoggin river, noted as the seat 
 of Bowdoin College, whose gallery of paintings is fam 
 ous. 
 
 Beyond Brunswick the train crosses the Andros 
 coggin and runs into the center of the lumber industry, 
 Gardiner. On the banks of the Kennebec, 4 miles from 
 Gardiner, is Hallowell with extensive granite quarries 
 in the neighborhood and 2 miles distant, at the head of 
 navigation on the Kennebec, is Augusta, the capital of 
 the State of Maine. This city is beautifully situated 
 and has an abundance of shade-trees and shrubbery. 
 
 The State House, Court House, the State Insane 
 Asylum, and the Kennebec Arsenal are noteworthy 
 buildings. 
 
 I continued my travels in this State to Bangor, the 
 second city of Maine, and one of the greatest lumber- 
 markets in the world. Situated at the head of 
 navigation on the Penobscot river, 60 miles from the 
 ocean and containing 18,000 inhabitants, the city is 
 very wealthy and handsomely built. Ship-building is 
 carried on, and there is also a large business in roofing- 
 slates, potatoes, ice, hay, steam-boilers, moccasins and 
 machinery. 
 
 The granite Custom House and Post Office, the 
 Norombega Hall with seats for 2,000 persons, and the 
 Bangor Theological Seminary, and some of the churches 
 are handsome structures. 
 
249 
 
 The " Pine Tree State," State of Maine, was settled 
 by the English at Bristol, 1624, and admitted, 1820. 
 
 Area, 33,040 square miles, extreme length, 300 
 miles; extreme breadth, 210 miles; shore line, over 
 2,400 miles, including islands ; the Penobscot, Andros- 
 coggin, Saco, St. Croix, Aroostook and St. John are 
 the most important rivers. 
 
 Temperature at Portland: winter, 23 to 38; 
 summer, 63 to 69. Rainfall at Brunswick, 45 
 inches. 
 
 Biddeford, an important manufacturing town, has 
 12,651 inhabitants, and Lewiston, the principal seat of 
 cotton manufactures, 19,083 population. 
 
 Number of farms, 64,309; average value per acre, 
 cleared land, $12.87 ; woodland, $12.66. Hay the most 
 valuable crop. 
 
 Lumbering, one of the chief industries, forests cover 
 ing over 10,000,000 acres; number of saw-mills, 848. 
 Fisheries give employment to 11,071 persons. Valu 
 able slate-quarries from the Kennebec to the Penobs 
 cot ; granite is obtained in blocks of immense size. The 
 State has 379 ship-building establishments. 
 
 Population, incl. 1,451 Colored, 8 Chinese, and 625 
 Indians, 648,936. 
 
 Number of colleges, 3; system of common, high 
 and normal schools excellent; of 519,969 persons, 10 
 years old and upward, 3.5 per cent, are unable to 
 read; school age, 4-21. 
 
 Returned to New York City, and remaining there 
 about 3 weeks; I started on the Pennsylvania Rail 
 
250 
 
 Road to explore the State of Pennsylvania and traveled 
 direct to Philadelphia. 
 
 The city of Philadelphia was founded by William 
 Penn, who came over from England in 1682, accom 
 panied by a colony of Quakers, and purchased the site 
 from the Indians. 
 
 The emigration thither was very rapid and in 1684 
 the population was estimated at 2,500. 
 
 Penn presented the city with a charter in 1701. 
 It prospered greatly and was the most important city 
 in the country during the colonial period and for more 
 than a quarter of a century after the Revolution. The 
 first Continental Congress assembled here in 1774, as 
 did also the subsequent Congresses during the war. 
 The Declaration of Independence was made and issued 
 here, July 4, 1776. The Convention which formed 
 the Constitution of the Republic assembled here in 
 May, 1787. Here resided the first President of the 
 United States, and here Congress continued to meet 
 until 1797. Until 1799 it was the capital of the colony 
 and State of Pennsylvania, and from 1790 to 1800 was 
 the seat of the Government of the United States. The 
 city was in possession of the British from September, 
 1777, to June 1778, a result of the unfortunate battles 
 of Brandy wine and Germantown. Since the Revolu 
 tion the city has grown steadily and rapidly. The 
 population, which in 1800 was 67,811 has increased 
 to 846,984 in 1880. The commerce of Philadelphia is 
 large and increasing, but manufactures are its chief 
 source of wealth. In heavy manufactures Philadelphia 
 
251 
 
 is only approached by Pittsburg. The leading indus 
 tries are the manufacture of locomotives and all kind 
 of iron-ware, ships, carpets, woolen and cotton goods, 
 shoes, umbrellas, and books. In commerce Philadel 
 phia ranks very high among the cities of the United 
 States. 
 
 The city contains numberless fine and extensive 
 public and private buildings, among which are of 
 special note, the Merchants Exchange, the U. S. Cus 
 tom House, the Provident Life and Trust Company s, 
 the Philadelphia Trust Company s, the Farmers and 
 Mechanic s Bank, the Philadelphia Bank, the Pennsyl 
 vania Life Insurance Company s, the costly buildings 
 of the Fidelity Safe Deposit Company, the First Na 
 tional Bank and the Guarantee Trust and Safe De 
 posit Company. 
 
 Of extraordinary interest is: Independence Hall. 
 In the Hall, the Continental Congress met, and here on 
 July 4, 1776, the Declaration of Independence was 
 adopted and publicly proclaimed from the steps on the 
 same day. The " Liberty Bell," the first bell rung in 
 the United States after the passage of Declaration, is 
 preserved in the Hall. In Congress Hall, in the sec 
 ond story, Washington delivered his farewell address. 
 Carpenter s Hall, where in 1774 the first Congress of 
 the United Colonies assesmbled, is also of great in 
 terest. 
 
 Other noteworthy public buildings and educational 
 and charitable institutions are: the Philadelphia Li 
 brary, founded in 1731 through the influence of Ben- 
 
959 
 
 jamin Franklin, whose grave is in the neighborhood, 
 the Pennsylvania Hospital, the Post Office, Mercantile 
 Library, U. S. Mint, the Academy of Natural Sciences, 
 the Ridgway Library, Academy of Music, Public Build 
 ings (for law-courts and public offices), the Union 
 League Club, Masonic Temple, the Girard College, 
 the University of Pennsylvania, Pennsylvania Hospi 
 tal for the Insane, the Eastern Penitentiary and the U. 
 S. Naval Asylum, and hundred others. 
 
 Among the many churches of Philadelphia, Christ 
 Church, the Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul, and 
 the Synagogue Eodef Shalom deserve special mention 
 as does Baptist Beth-Eden Church. 
 
 The Academy of Natural Sciences contains a library 
 of 26,000 volumes and extensive collections in zoology, 
 ornithology, geology, mineralogy, conchology, ethno 
 logy, archaeology and botany. The museum contains 
 about 250,000 specimens, and Agassiz pronounced it 
 one of the finest natural science collections in the 
 world. 
 
 On Washington Square, a public park in the heart 
 of the city, nearly every variety of tree that will grow 
 in this climate, whether indigenous or not, is contained 
 and not far from here is the Athenaeum, with a library 
 of 25,000 volumes. An other famous institution is 
 Jefferson Medical College, and the Academy of Fine 
 Arts has an excellent collection of pictures, statuary, 
 casts, etc. 
 
 Fairmount Park is the largest city park in the 
 world, extends along both banks of the Schuylkill 
 
253 
 
 river for more than 7 miles and along both banks of 
 the Wissahickon Creek for more than 6 miles and em 
 bracing a total area of 2,740 acres. Fairmount Hill 
 is the site of 4 reservoirs of the Schuylkill Water- 
 Works, for the supply of the city, and the Zoological 
 Gardens in the Park contain a fine assortment of Am 
 erican and European animals. 
 
 Memorial Hall, a splendid edifice of stone, was 
 used as an art gallery during the Exposition in 1876 
 and is designed for a permanent art and industrial col 
 lection. The Horticultural Building, also in the Park, 
 is a conversatory filled with tropical and other plants 
 and around it are 35 acres of ground devoted to horti 
 cultural purposes. Laurel Hill, adjoining the upper 
 part of East Fairmount Park is one of the most beauti 
 ful cemeteries in the country. 
 
 I made Philadelphia my starting-point for the ex 
 cursions into the interior of this State, and bound en 
 route to Pottsville, I visited Valley Forge, memorable 
 as the headquarters of General Washington and the 
 American army during the dismal winter of 1777. 
 
 The building occupied by Washington is still stand 
 ing near the railroad. 4 miles from the latter place, 
 in Phoenix ville, a flourishing town of 7,000 inhabitants, 
 I had occasion to see the Phoenix Iron Works, the 
 largest in America, and several rolling-mills and fur 
 naces. 
 
 Beyond Phcenixville the train traverses a tunnel 
 2,000 ft. long and passes through Pottstown, a pretty 
 village, crossing the Manatawny Creek and runs to 
 
254 
 
 Reading, the third city in Pennsylvania in manufac 
 tures and with a population of 43,280 in 1880. It is 
 pleasantly situated on an elevated and ascending plain, 
 backed E. by Penn s Mountain and S. by the Never- 
 sink Mountain, from both of which flow streams of pure 
 water, abundantly supplying the city. Of public 
 buildings the following are noteworthy : the Court 
 House, City Hall, the Grand Opera House, Academy 
 of Music, and the County Prison. 
 
 Among the 31 churches, the Trinity and the 
 Christ Church are the most imposing. There is a 
 large trade in the city, the same being surrounded by 
 a rich farming country. Most of the inhabitants of 
 this district are of German origin, and a dialect of 
 German, known as Pennsylvania Dutch, still prevails 
 to sonic extent. The production and working of iron 
 holds the first rank in the manufactures of this place. 
 There are some interesting resorts in the vicinity. 
 
 At Reading the route is intersected by the Allen- 
 town line, and runs to the city of Allentown, a thriving 
 city of 18,000 inhabitants, built upon an eminence be 
 tween Jordan Creek and Lehigh River. The County 
 Court House and County Prison are handsome edifices 
 and several of the school-buildings are noteworthy. 
 Muhlenberg College is a fine institute, and Mammoth 
 Rock, 1,000 ft. high, and several mineral springs near 
 the city, are interesting points. In Betlchem, not far 
 from Allentown, is the chief seat of the Moravians, or 
 United Brethren, who settled here under Count Zinzen- 
 dorf in 1741. The Moravian Female Seminary, 
 
255 
 
 founded in 1749, has a high reputation. The Lehigh 
 University founded in 1865 and liberally endowed by 
 Asa Packer, and in which tuition in all branches is 
 free, stands high amongst the educational institutions 
 in the country. It has 10,000 inhabitants and most 
 of the old Moravian buildings are in fair state of pre 
 servation. 
 
 Returning over the same road, I proceeded on my 
 journey to the famous, world-renown Cornwall Ore 
 Banks, touching Lebanon, on the Swatara River and 
 with 7,000 inhabitants. The Cornwall Ore Banks are 
 three hills formed of masses of iron-ore, and called 
 Grassy, Middle and Big Hill. It has been estimated 
 that Big Hill contains 40 million tons of ore above the 
 surface of the ground, yielding 70 . per cent, of pure 
 iron. Veins of copper are found among the iron, and 
 6 miles from Lebanon, near the Swatara River, are 
 quarries of fine gray marble. 
 
 Resuming my journey to the heart of the Pennsyl 
 vania coal-region, I reached the little village of Mauch 
 Chunk. It lies in a narrow gorge between and among 
 high mountains, its foot resting on the Lehigh River 
 and its body lying along the hillsides, in the midst of 
 some of the wildest and most picturesque scenery in 
 America. 
 
 The village is but one street wide, and the valley 
 is so narrow that the dwelling-houses usually have their 
 gardens and outhouses perched above the roof, and 
 there is barely room for the 2 railroads, river, street 
 and canal, which pass through the gorge side by side. 
 
256 
 
 Some fine views are obtained from the Flagstaff Peak. 
 2 miles from the village, on Broad Mountain, is a wild 
 and beautiful ravine, 2,700 ft. long and from 120 to 
 240 ft. wide, presenting a continuous succession of cas 
 cades, rapids, and pools. The coal trains passing 
 through the village every day, and the constant pro 
 cession of canal boats laden with coal are almost 
 numberless. The coal mines which supply this traffic 
 are situated in the Wyoming, Hazelton, Beaver 
 Meadow, Mahanoy, and Lehigh regions, on Sharp and 
 Black Mountains. The "Switch Back," used only as 
 a pleasure road, is run by gravity. The cars are 
 drawn to the top of Mount Pisgah by a powerful engine 
 on the summit, whence they descend 6 miles, by 
 gravity, to the foot- of Mount Jefferson, where they are 
 again taken up by means of a plane, which ascends 
 462 ft. in a length of 2,070 ft. and then run on the 
 Summit Hill. From that point the cars return, all the 
 way, by the " Back Track, 77 or gravity road, to Mauch 
 Chunk, landing the passengers but a short distance 
 from the spot where they commenced the ascent over 
 Mount Pisgah. After a close inspection of these and 
 other coal mines in that region, I returned to Phila 
 delphia for the purpose of assorting my mineral and 
 geological collection, and to rectify my table of statis 
 tics, and dispatching specimens to Europe. 
 
 This done, I started for Gettysburg, 136 miles from 
 Philadelphia. It is a town of 2,800 inhabitants and is 
 pleasantly situated on a fertile plain, surrounded by 
 hills. The Pennsylvania College and the Lutheran 
 
257 
 
 Theological Seminary are among the institutions of the 
 place. The former has a library of 18,300 volumes 
 and in the library of the latter are 10,100 volumes. 
 Near by are the Gettysburg Springs with Katalysine 
 waters. The chief interest of Gettysburg is historic. 
 A great battle, perhaps the most important of the civil 
 war, was fought here on the 1st, 2d and 3d of July, 
 1863, between the National forces under General 
 Meade and the Confederate army under General Lee. 
 Cemetery Hill forms the central and most striking 
 feature of Gettysburg. Here were the Union head 
 quarters, and about a mile distant is Seminary Ridge, 
 on which were General Lee s headquarters and the 
 bulk of the Confederate forces. The National Cemetery, 
 containing the remains of the Union soldiers who fell 
 in the battle of Gettysburg, was dedicated with imposing 
 ceremonies, and an impressive address by President 
 Lincoln, on November 19, 1863. A Soldiers Monu 
 ment, dedicated July 4, 1868, occupies the crown of 
 the hill, is 60 ft. high, and is surmounted by a colossal 
 marble statue of Liberty. At the base of the pedestal 
 are 4 buttresses bearing colossal marble statues of War, 
 History, Peace, and Plenty. Around the monument 
 are arranged the graves of the dead. The number of 
 bodies interred here is 3,564, of which 944 have not been 
 identified. Near the entrance to the Cemetery is the 
 bronze statue of Major-General Reynolds, who was 
 killed in the battle. Opposite the cemetery is an 
 observatory, 60 ft. high, from which a fine view of the 
 entire battle-field and surrounding country is obtained. 
 
258 
 
 York, situated on the Codorus Creek, and contain 
 ing 14,000 inhabitants, is on the road to Harrisburg. 
 It was settled in 1741, incorporated in 1787, and the 
 Continental Congress sat here from September 30, 1777, 
 to July 1778. During the Confederate invasion of 
 Pensylvania in 1863, it was occupied by Early, who 
 levied a contribution of $100,000 on the citizens, but 
 left the place unharmed. York contains several large 
 car-shops, some of the most extensive manufactories of 
 agricultural implements in the country, a shoe and a 
 match factory, and the Codorus paper-mills. After 
 traversing York for some distance, the train descends 
 into the rich Codorus valley, and from Bridgeport a 
 long bridge crosses the Susquehanna river to Harris- 
 burg, the capital of the State, beautifully situated on 
 the E. bank of the Susquehanna river. The city is hand 
 somely built and lies in midst a magnificent scenery. 
 
 The State House contains in its library 30,000 
 volumes and cabinets of curiosities, and on the grounds 
 is a beautiful monument, commemorating the soldiers 
 who fell in the Mexican War. The State Arsenal, 
 Court House, and the State Lunatic Asylum are spac 
 ious and imposing buildings. The iron manufactures of 
 Harrisburg are extensive, and 6 important railways 
 converge here. 
 
 At the head of the Tuckahoe Valley and at the foot 
 of the Alleghanies is Altoona, a pretty city of 20,000 in 
 habitants, built up since 1850, when it was a primtive 
 forest, by being selected as the site of the large machine- 
 shops of the Pensylvania R. R. 
 
- 259 
 
 Just beyond Altoona the asceltf of the Alleghanies 
 begins, and for the next 10 to 11 miles some of the 
 most brilliant scenery and marvellous engineering on 
 the whole line are to be seen. The road mounts 
 within this distance to the tunnel at the summit by so 
 steep a grade that, while in the ascent double power is 
 required to move the train, the entire distance of descent 
 is run without steam, the speed of the train being regu 
 lated by the brakes. 
 
 The curves at some points are very short and the 
 road hugs the sides of the mountains. The summit 
 of the mountain is pierced by a tunnel 3,612 ft. long, 
 through which the train passes before commencing to 
 descend the W. slope. 
 
 Cresson Springs, 24 miles beyond the tunnel, are 
 3,000 ft. above the sea. The waters of the 7 springs 
 are famous for their curative virtues. The climate is 
 excellent and the thermometer rarely reaches 75 dur 
 ing the hottest summer month. In descending the 
 mountains from Cresson Springs the stream, almost 
 continuously in sight, is the Conemaugh Creek, which 
 is crossed by a stone viaduct near Conemaugh Station, 
 the terminus of the mountain division of the road. 
 
 3 miles from the station is Johnstown, a busy manu 
 facturing borough at the confluence of the Conemaugh 
 and Stony Creeks. The Cambria Iron- Works near by, 
 are among the most extensive in the United States. 
 70 miles from here is Pittsburg, the second city of 
 Pennsylvania in population and importance, and one of 
 the chief manufacturing cities in America. Situated 
 
260 
 
 at the confluence of the Alleghany and Monongahela 
 rivers, which here form the Ohio, the city occupies the 
 delta between the two rivers and has about 190,000 
 inhabitants. 9 bridges span the Alleghany river and 
 5 the Monongahela. From its situation, Pittsburg en 
 joys excellent commercial facilities and is the center of 
 an extensive commerce with the Western States and 
 Territories ; while its vicinity to the inexhaustible iron 
 and coal mines of the State made it a great manufactur 
 ing center. The extent of its steel, glass, and iron 
 manufactures has given it the name of "Iron City," 
 while the heavy pall of smoke that constantly over 
 hangs it has caused it to be styled the "Smoky City." 
 The manufactories of iron, steel, and glass in Pittsburg 
 have immense dimensions. 35,000 hands are em 
 ployed in the 3 mentioned interests j some of the works 
 employing from 1,000 to 3,000 hands each. In the 
 coal and coke interests of the city over 20,000 people 
 are constantly employed. 
 
 Among the public buildings are the Municipal 
 Hall, the Custom House and Post Office, the U. S. 
 Arsensal, and the New Court House, in course of 
 erection, the most prominent. 
 
 Of the 170 churches, the most imposing is the 
 Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Paul, and Trinity 
 Church (Episcopal). The Mercantile library contains 
 17,000 volumes and in the same building are the col 
 lections of the Pittsburg Art Association. The Pitts 
 burg Female College and the Pennsylvania Female 
 College are flourishing institutions. The Western 
 
261 
 
 Pennsylvania Hospital, the City General Hospital, the 
 Homseopathic Hospital, Mercy Hospital, the Episcopal 
 Church Home, the Convent of the Sisters of Mercy, 
 the oldest house of the order in America, and the 
 Roman Catholic Orphan Asylum, are the principal 
 charitable institutions in the city. The new Riverside 
 Penitentiary, the Passionist Monastery of St. Paul, and 
 the Franciscan Convent are at Manchester, 2 miles be 
 low Pittsburg, now a part of Allegheny City. 
 
 Since the introduction of Natural Gas and its supply 
 to the great iron and glass works of Pittsburg, instead 
 of other costly fuel, the manufacturing and commercial 
 prosperity of that city has entered upon a new era, 
 which places it on a level with some of the largest 
 cities in the United States. The Natural-Gas industry 
 in Western Pennsylvania, especially in Pittsburg, 
 where the gas is also used for domestic purposes, has 
 rapidly developed and promises to become a source of 
 immense value. 
 
 The so-called coal-fields of Pittsburg comprise an 
 area of 15,000 square miles and, according to asser 
 tions made by famous geologists in the State of Penn 
 sylvania, will not exhaust in a thousand years. The 
 coal trade in Pittsburg can almost be called its 
 speciality, but not only coal, in its crude state, is it, 
 that gives it such importance, the manufacture of coke 
 adds greatly to the interests of this wealthy and unique 
 city in the Universe. 
 
 Though coke has been an important product of 
 Western Pennsylvania as far back as 60 years, its 
 
262 
 
 present importance has gradually developed itself 
 within the last 20 years. 
 
 The chief area of the coke industry is centred in 
 and around Conncllsville, 30 to 50 miles from Pitts 
 burg, in Alleghany, Westmoreland, and Fayette Coun 
 ties, but is directed by Pittsburg iirms. During my 
 stay in Pittsburg I had received many favors and 
 valuable services of the Austrian Consul Mr. Scham- 
 berg, the well-known State Geologist, Professor Chas. 
 A. Ashburner, and the Attorney, Mr. Josiah Cohen, 
 and I herewith express my heartfelt thanks to them. 
 
 Allegheny City, opposite Pittsburg, with which it 
 is connected by 9 bridges, is situated on the W. bank 
 of the Alleghany River. Its manufacturing interests 
 are large. In L880 the city had a population of 78,- 
 681. The finest church in the city is St. Peter s 
 (Catholic), and there are several Theological Seminar 
 ies. The Western University formerly in Pittsburg 
 has a valuable geological and natural-history collection. 
 The Allegheny Observatory is a department of this 
 institution. The Allegheny General Hospital is the 
 principal hospital, and the Soldiers Monument, erected 
 to the memory of the 4,000 men of Alleghany County 
 who lost their lives in the civil war, is very graceful. 
 
 In the center of the Wyoming Valley, picturesquely 
 situated on the Susquehanna, river, is Wilkesbarrc, a 
 prosperous city of 23,393 inhabitants, with handsome 
 public and private buildings. There are several fine 
 churches and a good library in the city. 
 
 9 miles beyond Wilkesbarre is Pittson, on the Sus- 
 
263 
 
 quehanna, W. of the town are the Lackawannock 
 Mountains filled with rich coal mines which here find 
 an outlet. 
 
 From this latter place I traveled to Oil City, the 
 center and headquarters of the Oil Region. It is 
 situated on the Alleghany river at the mouth of Oil 
 Creek. Its population is 8,000 and, though not par 
 ticularly attractive, is interesting on account of wit 
 nessing the various operations of obtaining, refining, 
 barreling, gauging and shipping the precious petrol 
 eum. The wells in the vicinity yield 600 barrels 
 daily, and about two million barrels are annually sent 
 thence to market. 
 
 The great iron tanks for storing the oil are worth 
 visiting. 
 
 18 miles beyond Oil City, on the road to Buffalo, is 
 Titusville, a city of 10,000 inhabitants and the largest 
 place in the Oil Regions. It is situated in a broad 
 and beautiful valley, through which flows Oil Creek. 
 The city is nicely built and owes its rapid growth and 
 prosperity mainly to the oil wells in the vicinity, which 
 are very productive 5 and here are the capacious re 
 fineries of the Standard Oil Company. Besides the 
 oil- works there are extensive iron- works, foundries and 
 machine-shops, and various other manufactories. 
 
 Before concluding my six weeks travels through 
 the State, I visited Scranton and Carbondale. Scran- 
 ton is a flourishing city, occupying the plateau at the 
 confluence of Roaring Brook and the Lackawanna 
 river. 
 
264 
 
 It is handsomely laid out and has 45,850 inhabi 
 tants. Its importance is due to its situation in the 
 most northern of the anthracite basins, and to its rail 
 road facilities. The trade in mining supplies is ex 
 tensive, and the shipments of coal are immense. Its 
 iron manufactures are very important, and there are 
 large blast-furnaces, rolling-mills, foundries, machine- 
 shops, etc. 
 
 Carbon dale has 8,000 inhabitants and is at the N. 
 end of the anthracite coal region, near several ex 
 tremely rich coal-mines. The chief object of interest 
 here is the Gravity Railroad, a series of inclined planes 
 on which immense coal-trains are sent over the moun 
 tains to and from Honesdale, on the Delaware and 
 Hudson Canal, with no impelling force but gravity, 
 save at one point. 
 
 The Keystone State, Pennsylvania, one of the 13 or 
 iginal States, is named in honor of William Penn, the 
 grantee. First permanent settlement made by Swedes 
 at Chester, 1638. 
 
 Area, 45,215 square miles; extreme length, 303 
 miles; greatest breadth, 176 miles. 
 
 Largest rivers, Delaware, Susquehanna, Alleghany, 
 Monongahela, Ohio. 
 
 Temperature at Philadelphia: winter, 31 to 42 ; 
 summer, 70 to 75; rainfall, 44 inches. 
 
 Philadelphia founded 1682 ; second city in the 
 United States. Philadelphia, Pittsburg and Erie are 
 ports of entry. 
 
 Number of farms, 156 ; 357, averaging about 100 
 
265 
 
 acres each ; average value per acre, cleared land, $45.- 
 75; woodland, $29.75. 
 
 Manufacture of pig iron the greatest industry; 
 number of manufacturing establishments, 10,381; flour 
 and grist-mills, 2,873 ; iron and steel works, 321 ; 
 sawed lumber, 2,826 ; paper-mills, 78 ; woolen-goods, 324. 
 
 Anthracite coal field in central division; bitumin 
 ous in west and southwest. Produces all the anthracite 
 and more than half the bituminous coal of the United 
 States. Ranks first in rye, iron and steel, petroleum 
 and coal; second in buckwheat, potatoes and printing 
 and publishing. 
 
 Population of 4,282,891 includes 85,535 Colored, 
 148 Chinese, 8 Japanese and 184 Indians. 
 
 Non-tax payers and political bribers excluded from 
 voting. 
 
 Number of colleges, 26 ; enrolled in public schools, 
 945,345; school age, 6-21. 
 
 On the route from Philadelphia to Baltimore, Mary 
 land, the city of Chester, the seat of the famous ship 
 building establishment of the late John Roach, is pass 
 ed. Chester has 14,996 inhabitants and is interesting 
 as the spot where in September, 1777, the battle on 
 the banks of the Brandy wine was fought. 14 miles 
 from Chester is the city of Wilmington, Delaware, the 
 most important in that State, with a population of 42,- 
 500, and various and extensive manufactures, embrac 
 ing ship-building, car-factories, cotton and woolen 
 manufactures, flour-mills, powder-mills, and shoe and 
 leather factories, The city is nicely laid out and con- 
 
266 
 
 tains several fine public and private buildings and 
 handsome churches. 
 
 At Havre de Grace, the Susquehanna river is 
 crossed on a lofty iron bridge nearly a mile long, and 
 Baltimore is entered into. Baltimore is the chief city 
 of Maryland and in population and commerce one of 
 the most important in the Union. It is picturesquely 
 situated on the N. branch of the Patapsco river, 14 
 miles from its entrance into Chesapeake Bay, and about 
 200 miles from the ocean. Jones s Falls, a small 
 stream running N. and S., spanned by several bridges, 
 divides the city into two nearly equal parts known as 
 East and West Baltimore. 
 
 The harbor is capacious and safe, consisting of an 
 inner basin and an outer harbor accessible to the larg 
 est ships. The entrance is defended by Fort McHenry, 
 which was unsuccessfully bombarded by the British 
 fleet in the war of 1812. 
 
 The present site of Baltimore was chosen in 1729 
 and its name was given it in 1745, in honor of Lord 
 Baltimore, the proprietary of Maryland. The charter 
 of the city dates from 1797. The population which at 
 that time was 26,000, had increased by 1860 to 212,- 
 418, and in 1880 it had reached 332,190. The com 
 merce of the city is very large, and through the two 
 rail roads of the Baltimore and Ohio and the Northern 
 Central, the city is successfully competing for the trade 
 of the north and northwest. Large shipments of grain 
 are made to Europe, and tobacco, cotton, petroleum, 
 bacon, butter, cheese and lard, are also exported. 
 
267 
 
 Baltimore is the chief point for working the rich 
 copper-ores of Lake Superior, and produces nearly 
 4,000 tons of refined copper yearly ; the smelting-works 
 are in Canton, and employ 1,000 men. There are also 
 iron-works, rolling-mills, nail-factories, locomotive- 
 works, cotton-factories, and other industrial establish 
 ments, 2,261 in all. The canning of oysters, vege 
 tables and fruits, is estimated to reach the annual value 
 of $10,000,000; and half a million hides are annually 
 made into leather and sent to New England. 
 
 Baltimore is called the u Monumental City," from 
 the number of its monuments ; its chief monument is 
 the Washington Monument, and Battle Monument was 
 erected 1815, to the memory of those who fell defend 
 ing the city from the British in September, 1814. 
 
 There are a great many churches in this city, 
 among which the following are the finest : the Cathe 
 dral, Mount Vernon Church, First Presbyterian, and 
 Unitarian Church. The Hebrew Synagogue is a large 
 and handsome edifice. 
 
 Of educational institutions, of which there are also 
 a great number, the first of all, and the greatest Li 
 Maryland is the Johns Hopkins University. 
 
 The Peabody Institute, containing 75,000 volumes 
 in its library j the Athenoeum, with the Baltimore 
 Library (15,000 volumes), and the collections of the 
 Maryland Historical Society, comprising a library of 
 10,000 volumes, numerous historical relics and pictures 
 and statuary, the Maryland Institute, designed for 
 the promotion of the mechanic arts, containing a 
 
268 
 
 library of 14,000 volumes; the Academy of Science 
 with a fine museum of natural history, including rich 
 collections of birds and minerals, an d a complete repre 
 sentation of the flora and fauna of Maryland; the State 
 Normal School; the City college; and the Enoch Pratt 
 Free Libray, containing 25,000 volumes, are of high 
 standing. 
 
 Prominent charitable institutions are the Johns 
 Hopkins Hospital, connected with the Medical Depart 
 ment of the Johns Hopkins University; the Maryland 
 Hospital for the Insane; the Mount Hope Hospital; 
 the State Institution for the Instruction of the Blind ; 
 the Episcopal Church Home; State Insane Asylum; 
 Bay View Asylum ; the Sheppard Asylum for the In 
 sane ; and the Mount Hope Retreat for the Insane and 
 Sick, 4 miles from the city. 
 
 The City Hall, the Exchange and the Masonic 
 Temple are exceedingly elegant structures, and 
 there are numerous fine business buildings. Druid Hill 
 Park, 680 acres in area, is a beautiful pleasure 
 ground, and from the tower at the head of Druid 
 Hill Lake, a superb view of the city and the harbor 
 is obtained. On Federal Hill, a commanding emi 
 nence on the S. side of the inner basin, is the U. S. 
 Signal Station. The Baltimore and Potomac Tunnel, 
 next to the Hoosac Tunnel the largest in America, 
 (6,969 ft.) and the Union Tunnel, (3,410 ft.) are among 
 the wonders of Baltimore. 
 
 At an excursion to Cumberland in the mountain 
 region, and which in point of population and commerce 
 
269 
 
 is the second city, I was greatly surprised to find such 
 an enormous activity in it. It has 11,000 inhabitants 
 and is the site of the great rolling-mills of the R. R. 
 Company, for the manufacture of steel rails. A few 
 miles W. of Cumberland upon the summit of the Alle- 
 ghanies, begins the district known as the Cumberland 
 Coal Regions, which extends W. to the Ohio River. 
 On that pretty long journey I had occasion to study 
 the country profoundly, and started for the capital of 
 the State, Annapolis. The capital contains the U. S. 
 Naval Academy, some excellent State Institutions, and 
 5,744 inhabitants. The situation of Annapolis is of 
 great beauty, on Chesapeake Bay. 
 
 The State of Maryland, named in honor of Maria, 
 wife of Charles II, King of England, is one of the 1 3 
 original States ; first settlement made by English 
 Roman Catholics at St. Mary s, 1634. 
 
 Area, 12,210 square miles; greatest length, east 
 and west, 196 miles; sea coast, 33 miles; or, including 
 the tidewater region of the Chesapeake Bay, 41 1 miles; 
 and, with shores of islands, 509 miles. 
 
 Temperature at Baltimore: winter, 33 to 41; 
 summer, 73 to 79. Rainfall, 41 inches. 
 
 Number of farms, 40,517; average value per acre, 
 cleared land, $35.50; woodland, $24.65. Number of 
 manufacturing establishments, 6,787; hands employed, 
 74,945; flour and grist mills, 546. 
 
 Copper is found in Frederick and Carroll counties; 
 iron ore in Alleghany, Anne Arundel, Carroll, Balti 
 more, Frederick and Prince George s counties. 
 
270 
 
 Population, 934,943, incl. 210,230 colored, 5 
 Chinese and 15 Indians. Slaves in I860, 87,189. 
 Bribers excluded from voting. Number of colleges, 
 11; school population, 319,201 5 school age, 5-20. 
 
 40 miles from Baltimore lies Washington City, the 
 capital of the Republic. Owing to its number and 
 magnificence of its public buildings, Washington is one 
 of the most interesting cities in America. It is situated 
 on the N. bank of the Potomac river, at its confluence 
 with the Eastern Branch. 
 
 The site of Washington City was selected through 
 the agency of Washington, who himself laid the corner 
 stone of the Capitol, on September 18, 1793, seven 
 years before the seat of government was removed 
 thither from Philadelphia. Under Washington s di 
 rection the city was planned and laid out by Andrew 
 Ellicott. It appears to have been Washington s desire 
 that it should be called the "Federal City," but the 
 name of "the city of Washington" was conferred upon 
 it on September 9, 1791. Its ancient name was Cono- 
 cocheague, derived from a rapid stream of that name 
 which ran near the city, and which, in the Indian 
 tongue, means the Roaring Brook. The city was in 
 corporated May 3, 1802. Its population in 1860 was 
 60,000, and 1880, 147,307. 
 
 The commerce and manufactures of Washington 
 are unimportant. The public buildings are the chief 
 attraction of Washington, and the Capitol is probably 
 the most magnificent public edifice in the world. It is 
 almost impossible to give a true description of all the 
 
271 
 
 curiosities and brilliant ornamentations of this unique 
 marvel of monumental architecture. 
 
 The Library of Congress is the largest collection in 
 the United States, and numbers now nearly 450,000 
 volumes, exclusive of pamphlets, and is increasing at 
 the rate of 10,000 to 15,000 volumes a year. The total 
 cost of the Capitol was $13,000,000. 
 
 The Executive Mansion, usually called the "White 
 House," whose corner-stone was laid in 1792, was first 
 occupied by President Adams in 1800. The building 
 stands on an area comprising 75 acres, handsomely 
 laid out, and contains in the inclosed 20 acres of ground 
 for the President s private use, extensive conservatories 
 and a beautiful fountain. 
 
 The U. S. Treasury, State, War, and Navy Depart 
 ments, Patent Office, Department of Agriculture, Post 
 Office Department, and the Pension Building are exten 
 sive and brilliant structures. 
 
 Smithsonian Institution, founded by James Smith- 
 son, an Englishman, " for the increase and diffusion of 
 knowledge among men," contains a museum of natural 
 history, with numerous specimens, and metallurgical, 
 mineralogical and ethnological collections, with many 
 curiosities. 
 
 In the "Annex" of the Institution is the National 
 Museum, which contains the Centennial exhibits of the 
 United States, and donations of foreign Governments 
 to America. Botanical Gardens consist chiefly of a 
 series of large conservatories filled with rare and curious 
 plants, flowers and fruits, and N. of it stands the 
 
272 
 
 Bartholdi Fountain, so much admired at the Centennial 
 Exhibition. 
 
 The U. S. Naval Observatory occupies a command 
 ing site on the bank of the Potomac. It was founded 
 in 1842, and is now one of the foremost institutions in 
 the world. It possesses many fine instruments; inclu 
 ding a 26-inch equatorial telescope and a good library 
 of astronomical works. The Army Medical Museum 
 contains 16,000 specimens, illustrating every species 
 of wound and disease. 
 
 The Navy- Yard, containing the Naval Museum, the 
 Experimental Battery and the fleet, has an area of 27 
 acres. 
 
 There are a number of very fine churches in 
 Washington. 
 
 The Corcoran- Art Gallery, founded by the banker 
 W. W. Corcoran, contains numerous paintings, most of 
 them masterpieces, and the finest collection of casts in 
 America ; marble statuary j the richest bronzes in the 
 U. S. ; porcelain; and specimens of majolica- ware, 
 bric-a-brac, etc. 
 
 The Washington Monument, considered to be the 
 loftiest in the world, was dedicated on Washington s 
 Birthday, 1885, and the Statues of Washington, 
 General Scott, Lincoln, General Eawlins, General 
 Thomas, General McPherson, and the Naval Monument 
 are of large proportions and beauty. A second statue 
 of Lincoln was erected by contributions of colored peo 
 ple. 
 
 The Soldiers Home consists of several spacious 
 
273 
 
 marble buildings surrounded by a beautiful park of 500 
 acres. President Lincoln passed some of the last hours 
 of his eventful term in the Home, and near by is the 
 National Cemetery. 
 
 The Government Asylum for the Insane is an ex 
 tensive and noble building. Howard University, 
 founded in 1864, for the education of youth "without 
 regard to sex or color," is a vast structure. 
 
 Georgetown, now called West Washington, is con 
 nected by 4 bridges with Washington and is beauti 
 fully situated 011 a range of hills which command a view 
 unsurpassed in the Potomac Valley. Georgetown Col 
 lege, the most famous institution of learning of the 
 Roman Catholic Church in the United States, is under 
 the control of the Jesuits, and contains a library of 
 30,000 volumes, some beautifully illuminated missals, 
 some rare old manuscripts, an astronomical observa 
 tory, and a museum of natural history. 
 
 The Aqueduct, by which the waters of the Chesa 
 peake and Ohio Canal are carried across the Potomac, 
 is worth inspecting. 15 miles below Washington is 
 Mount Vernon on the Virginia side of the Potomac, 
 then known as the "Hunting Creek estate/ was be 
 queathed by Augustine Washington, who died in 1743, 
 to Lawrence Washington. The latter named it after 
 Admiral Vernon, under whom he had served in the 
 Spanish wars. George Washington inherited the es 
 tate in 1752. The central part of the mansion, which 
 is of wood, was built by Lawrence, and the wings by 
 
 George Washington. It contains many interesting 
 
 18 
 
274 
 
 historical relics, among which are the key of the Bas- 
 tile, presented by Lafayette, portions of the military 
 and personal furniture of Washington, portraits, etc. 
 The Tomb o;f Washington stands in a retired situation 
 near the mansion. It is a plain but solid brick struc 
 ture, with an iron gate, through the bars of which may 
 be seen the marble sarcophagi containing the remains 
 of George and Martha Washington. The Mount Ver- 
 iion domain, including the mansion and 6 acres, which 
 had remained since the death of Washington in the 
 possession of his descendants, was purchased in 1856 
 for the sum of $200,000, raised by subscription, under 
 the auspices of the "Ladies Mount Vernon Associa 
 tion" aided by the efforts of Edward Everett. It is, 
 therefore, and will continue to be, the property of the 
 nation. 
 
 Leaving the beautiful city of Washington I traveled 
 to Harper s Ferry, delightfully situated at the conflu 
 ence of the Potomac and Shenandoah .Rivers. The 
 town is irregularly built around the base of a hill. 
 The scenery around Harper s Ferry is wonderfully 
 picturesque. The Maryland Heights, across the 
 Potomac, and Bolivar Heights, above the town, are 
 worth to be climbed. The chief interest pertaining to 
 Harper s Ferry, now a village of about 800 inhabi 
 tants, is historical. 
 
 It was the scene of the exploits which in October 
 1859, rendered the name of John Brown, of Ossawat- 
 tomie, Kansas, notorious ; and Charlestown, the county- 
 seat where Brown and his followers were tried and 
 
275 
 
 executed, is only 7 miles distant on the road to Win 
 chester. During the civil war Harper s Ferry was 
 alternately in the hands of the Federals and Confederates. 
 
 During my stay in Washington I had the honor to 
 be introduced to President Cleveland, by the well-known 
 Mr. Simon Wolf, and to the President of the United 
 States Senate, Mr. Sherman. The latter had the kind 
 ness to detach his Secretary, Mr. Babcock, to act as my 
 companion and guide. 
 
 In all the Governmental Departments I was cordi 
 ally received, and of some of the professional Scientists 
 of the different scientific institutes in the city, /. i. 
 Professor Baird, the famous Ichthyologist, the well-known 
 Archaeologist, Professor Rau, the successful Ethnologist, 
 Professor Otis, and above all, my worthy friend, the 
 indefatigable Ethno-Geologist, Major Powell, as well as 
 of the Secretary for foreign exchange at the Smithson 
 ian Institute, Mr. Boehme, I received valuable in 
 formations and favors which will never be forgotten by 
 me and for which I herewith thank them heartily. 
 
 The District of Columbia in which Washington is 
 situated, comprises an area of 75 square miles, and 
 lies on the Potomac. Georgetown, too, is in it. 
 
 By approbation of an act of Congress on February 
 21, 1871, a Territorial Government was instituted, but 
 in 1874, the territorial system was abandoned and all 
 public affairs entrusted to 3 Commissioners. 
 
 In 1860, the population numbered 75, 080 ; the 
 Slaves, 3,185. In 1880 there were 177,624 inhabi 
 tants in the District, among these, 59 ; 402 negroes. 
 
276 
 
 After my return to Philadelphia, I visited Camden, 
 a flourishing city of 25,000 inhabitants, on the Dele- 
 ware opposite Philadelphia, with which it is connected 
 by ferries. 
 
 There are extensive ship-yards and manufactures of 
 iron, glass and chemicals. 
 
 Cape May,^the Long Branch of Philadelphia, is the 
 extreme southern point of New Jersey, fronting 
 the Atlantic at the entrance of Delaware Bay. Cape 
 May is a favorite resort of Southern and Western 
 people and there are some nice places of amusements in 
 the vicinity. 
 
 Like Cape May, Atlantic City is a favorite resort of 
 Philadelphians, and during the season a great many 
 people visit the place. A short distance N. of Atlantic 
 City, is the beautiful but ill-omened Brigantine Beach, 
 called by the sailors "the Graveyard," on account of 
 the number of fatal wrecks that have occurred there. 
 Continuing my travels through the State New Jersey, 
 Long Branch was begun with. This is a great summer 
 resort in the vicinity of New York, situated on the 
 Jersey shore of the Atlantic, where a long beach affords 
 admirable facilities for bathing. The Monmouth Park 
 Race-Course and the Iron Pier are worth attention. 
 
 Jersey City is situated on the Hudson river, op 
 posite New York, of which it is practically a portion. 
 It is a place of much commercial and industrial activity, 
 and had in 1880 a population of 120,728. It contains 
 the depots of several of the most important railways 
 leading South and West from New York, and the docks 
 
of leading transatlantic steamers, but nothing else of 
 special interest, except a few nice churches and several 
 good educational institutions. 
 
 Newark, on the route to the capital of the State of 
 New Jersey, is a large manufacturing city with 136,400 
 inhabitants. 
 
 The city is built on an elevated plain upon the 
 right bank of the Passaic river, 4 miles from Newark 
 Bay, and is regularly laid out. 
 
 Of the literary institutions, the most noteworthy are 
 the State Historical Society, the Library Association, 
 containing 20,000 volumes, and the Newark Academy. 
 Newark is distinguished for its manufactures of jewelry, 
 carriages, paper, leath(*r, and hats, and some of the 
 public buildings are very fine. Newark Lager-bier 
 has great fame iri the U. S. 
 
 6 miles beyond Newark is Elizabeth, the nicest city in 
 New Jersey, with 28,229 inhabitants, and many fine 
 residences; but little industry. 
 
 New Brunswick, on Raritan river, has 18,000 in 
 habitants and immense manufactures of India-rubber, 
 harness and hosiery. Rutger s College in the city, is 
 an old richly-endowed and flourishing establishment, 
 and 16 miles distant from here is Princeton- Junction, 
 and 2 miles from the latter Princeton College, one of 
 the most famous institutions of learning in America. 
 
 A detour to Patterson, a busy manufacturing city 
 of 50,887 inhabitants was well worth undertaking. 
 Patterson is situated on the right bank of the Passaic 
 river, immediately below the falls. It was founded in 
 
278 
 
 1791 by Alexander Hamilton, in the cotton interest, 
 and its cotton factories are now very extensive. Its 
 most important interest, however, is silk manufactur 
 ing, for which it has 30 factories, employing about 
 8,000 persons, and turning out a product of $4,000,- 
 000. It has also extensive manufacturing interests in 
 velvet, woolen, linen, locomotives, and heavy machin 
 ery. 
 
 Next to Newark it is the largest manufacturing 
 city of New Jersey. The Passaic Falls have a per 
 pendicular descent of 50 ft., and the scenery in the 
 vicinity is very picturesque. Ramapo, 17 miles dis 
 tant, has the Torn Mountain in its neighborhood, from 
 the summit of which there is a wide-extended view. 
 During the campaign of 1777, Washington often as 
 cended this mountain to watch the movements of the 
 British army and fleet around New York. 
 
 Trenton, the capital of New Jersey, is beautifully 
 situated on the Delaware. Its manufacturing interests 
 are important, and among these, the Potteries are chief. 
 The population in 1880, was 29,910, and the city is 
 remarkably well built, and clean. 
 
 The leading event in the past history of Trenton 
 is the famous victory over the Hessians won by Wash 
 ington, December 26, 1776 and its chief present at 
 tractions are the public buildings. It contains the 
 State House, State Penitentiary, State Arsenal and the 
 State Lunatic Asylum. 
 
 The State of New Jersey, "Jersey Blue," was 
 named in honor of a grantee, Sir George Carteret, at 
 
279 
 
 one time Governor of the Island of Jersey. It is one of the 
 13 original States. Settled by Dutch, at Bergen, 1620. 
 
 Area, 7,815 square miles 5 extreme length, 157 
 miles 5 breadth, 37 to 70 miles 5 frontage on Atlantic 
 and Delaware Bay, about 120 miles each. 
 
 Temperature at Atlantic City : winter, 32 to 42; 
 summer, 66 to 73. Rainfall at Newark, 45 inches. 
 
 Newark, Perth Amboy, Great Egg Harbor, Tuck- 
 erton, Bridgeton and Lumberton are ports of entry. 
 Extensive zinc works at Newark and Jersey City. 
 Hobokenhas a population of 37,721, and is practically 
 a part of New York ; many business men residing there, 
 and except the large docks of European Steamship 
 companies has little to offer. 
 
 Hay is the most valuable crop. Cranberry grow 
 ing a specialty, Burlington, Ocean and Atlantic coun 
 ties being especially adopted to this industry. Cen 
 tral region, a vast market garden. Latest reports give 
 108 factories for silk and silk goods, and number of 
 hands employed in them 12,549 ; 2,234 hands employed 
 in jewelry factories 5 number of flour and grist mills, 481 5 
 brick and tile factories, 107. Banks first in fertilizing 
 marl, zinc and silk goods. 
 
 Population, 1,131,116, incl. 38,853 Negroes, 172 
 Chinese, and 74 Indians. 
 
 Number of colleges, 4; number enrolled in public 
 schools, 209,526; school age, 5-18. 
 
 The next exploration tour was intended for Ne 
 braska and other Western States and Territories, and 
 starting from Chicago, by the Chicago, Rock Island 
 
280 
 
 and Pacific R. R., I passed many already described 
 places, and visited first, the important stone quarries 
 around Lockport, near Joliet, Illinois. Joliet is situ 
 ated on both banks of the Des Plain es river and on the 
 Illinois and Michigan canal of which it receives its 
 water-power. The city is beautifully built, and here 
 is located one of the finest prisons in America, the 
 State Penitentiary. 
 
 The vicinity is very productive and the city is the 
 chief point of shipping. Besides flour-mills, there are 
 also manufactories of agricultural implements, and 
 Joliet contains 16,145 inhabitants. 
 
 23 miles beyond Joliet is the flourishing town of 
 Ottawa, on Illinois river, close below the entrance of 
 Fox river, which has here a fall of 29 ft., affording an 
 immense water power which is extensively used in 
 manufactures. The population is 8,000. There are 
 several grain-elevators, and large quantities of wheat 
 are shipped from this point. 
 
 La Salle, 36 miles distant, with 8,000 inhabitants, 
 on the Illinois river, is a busy manufacturing city. 
 Here terminates the Illinois and Michigan Canal, 100 
 miles long, which connects it with Chicago. It is the 
 center of extensive mines of bituminous coal, of which 
 large quantities are shipped. 
 
 Moline, on the E. bank of the Mississippi, with 
 9,000 inhabitants, and various factories, which obtain 
 an immense water-power by means of a dam, is pic 
 turesquely situated and the surrounding country is 
 rich in coal. 
 
281 
 
 Below Moline is the flourishing city of Rock Island, 
 on the E. bank of the Mississippi, with a population of 
 about 16,000. 
 
 The river is here divided by the island of Rock Is 
 land, which is 3 miles long; and from 16 miles above Mo- 
 line to 3 miles below are the Upper Rapids. The city 
 of Rock Island is at the foot of the rapids and at the 
 confluence of Rock River with the Mississippi. 
 
 It is an important railroad center, is the shipping 
 point for the productive country adjacent, and has 
 many varied manufactures. 
 
 The Augustana College and Theological Institute 
 are located here. The island of Rock Island (960 
 acres) is Government property and the site of the 
 Great Arsenal and Armory, intended to be the central 
 United States Armory. 
 
 Opposite Rock Island, on the Iowa side of the 
 river, is the city of Davenport and the train crosses 
 the river between them on the magnificent railroad and 
 wagon bridge, built by the Government. Davenport 
 is the second city of Iowa in size, has 22,000 inhabi 
 tants, and is the great grain depot of the Upper Missis 
 sippi. It is also an important manufacturing center, and is 
 situated in the heart of extensive bituminous coal-fields. 
 The city is nicely laid out, and handsomely built. 
 Griswold College, the Academy of the Immaculate 
 Conception, and the Academy of Natural Sciences are 
 located here, and there are some fine churches and 
 several nice buildings. 
 
 Continuing my travels in Iowa, I next visited Iowa 
 
282 
 
 City, formerly the State Capital, and now the seat of 
 the State University. The State Historical Society 
 has a library of about 4,000 volumes, and there are 
 some factories for which the Iowa River furnishes the 
 water power. The population is about 8,000. Iowa 
 College, removed from Davenport, is now in Grinnell, 
 75 miles from Iowa City. 
 
 Des Moines, the present capital of Iowa, is situated 
 on the Des Moines river, at its confluence with the 
 Raccoon. The city is intersected by both rivers, which 
 are spanned by 8 bridges, and has 35,000 inhabitants. 
 The new Capitol is a splendid building, and cost 
 $3,000,000. The Post Office contains also the U. S. 
 Courts, etc., and the two medical colleges, the Drake 
 University, and the Calinan College are famous schools 
 of learning. The State Library contains 15,000 
 volumes, and there is also a Public Library and 15 
 churches, and a Baptist college in the city. Twelve 
 railroads pass through the city, making it a railroad 
 center. 
 
 Beyond Des Moines the road passes through the 
 flourishing cities of Avoca and Atlantic, descends the 
 bluffs into the Missouri Bottom and soon reaches 
 Council Bluffs, with a population of 22,000. It is the 
 converging-point of all the railroads from the East 
 which connect with the Union Pacific, and communi 
 cates by steam-railroad with Omaha, on the opposite 
 river bank. The great Missouri River Bridge which con 
 nects the two cities, is 2,750 ft, long. Council Bluffs 
 is well laid out, and near here is the State Institute for 
 
283 
 
 the Deaf and Dumb. The views from the bluffs above 
 the city are very fine. 
 
 By a decision of th 3 U. S. Supreme Court, Council 
 Bluffs is the E. terminus of the Union Pacific R. R. 
 
 The " Hawk eye State/ Iowa, whose name is of Indian 
 origin, and means "The Beautiful Land/ 7 is part of the 
 Louisiana purchase, merged into Missouri Territory, 
 1812; into Michigan, 1834; into Wisconsin, 1836. 
 First white settlement at Dubuque, 1788. Admitted 
 as a State, 1846. 
 
 Area, 56,025 square miles; extent, north and south, 
 208 miles; east and west, about 300 miles. Principal 
 rivers within the State: Des Moines, Iowa and Little 
 Sioux. 
 
 Temperature at Davenport; winter, 21 to 37; 
 summer, 70 to 76. Rainfall at Muscatine, 43 
 inches. 
 
 Burlington, Keokuk and Dubuque are U. S. ports of 
 delivery. 
 
 Number of farms, 185,351; average value per acre, 
 cleared land, $39.36 ; woodland, $27.36. Dairy interest 
 growing in importance, creamery and factory products 
 bringing high prices. Manufacturing establishments 
 are numerous, including canning factories, stove and 
 other foundries, engine-building, paper and woolen 
 mills, lumber and saw-mills, etc. Ranks first in hogs; 
 second in milk cows, oxen and other cattle, corn, hay 
 and oats. 
 
 Population, 1,753,980, incl. 9,310 colored, 33 
 Chinese and 466 Indians. 
 
284 
 
 Number of Colleges, 19; school population, 604,739; 
 school age, 5-21. 
 
 Opposite Council Bluffs, as already stated, lies the 
 city of Omaha, the largest city of Nebraska and of the 
 Missouri Valley. It occupies a beautiful plateau, rising 
 gradually into bluffs and toward the end of 1884 had 
 60,000 inhabitants. On the bluffs stand the handsome 
 residences of the wealthier citizens. The U. S. Post- 
 Office and Court House, the High-School Building, the 
 Union Pacific Headquarters Building, the Union Pacific 
 R. R. Depot, the Douglas County Court House andBoyd s 
 Opera House are magnificent structures and several of 
 the churches are costly and elegant edifices. Its pros 
 perity is due chiefly to its having been for a long period 
 the real E. terminus of the Union Pacific R. R. 
 
 It has an immense trade and many important manu 
 factories, the principal of which latter arc the Omaha 
 Smelting- Works, considered to be the largest in America, 
 several large breweries and distilleries, extensive lin 
 seed-oil works, steam-engine works, brick yards, stock 
 yards and pork-packing establishments, and the ex 
 tensive machine-shops, car-works and foundry of the 
 Union Pacific R. R. The system of water-works in the 
 city is unsurpassed. Fort Omaha is 4 miles from 
 Omaha city and has a large post, but the headquarters 
 of the Department of the Platte are in the city. 
 
 The Burlington and Missouri River R. R. extends 
 to Denver, Colorado, whence I intended to go after 
 visiting the capital of Nebraska, Lincoln, and procur 
 ing passage on that line, I started for Lincoln. 
 
285 
 
 This is a city of 20,000 population, and is the seat 
 of the State University and several other educational 
 and charitable institutions. It is romantically situated 
 arid has a lively commerce. 
 
 My explorations in the State of Nebraska were not 
 of an extensive character and I was compelled to get 
 furnished with the details of this country from the most 
 reliable sources, and reproduce the same as given to 
 me. 
 
 The State of Nebraska, whose name is taken from 
 the Indian, signifying " Shallow water " and applied 
 first to the river, was organized as a Territory in 1854; 
 admitted 1867. 
 
 Area 76,855 square miles ; width, north and south, 
 about 210 miles; greatest length in center, about 420 
 miles. Platte the principal river, extending through 
 the State east and west. 
 
 Temperature at Omaha ; winter, 20 to 34; sum 
 mer, 72 to 78. Rainfall at Fort Kearney, 25 inches. 
 
 Population of Plattsmouth, 5,796; of Nebraska 
 City, 5,597. Rye, buckwheat, barley, flax and hemp 
 yield abundant crops. Apples, pears, plums, grapes, 
 and berries are plentiful. Herd law excellent, and 
 grazing land good. Cattle raising the great industry 
 of the State, next to agriculture. Manufacturing es 
 tablishments show a wonderful increase of from 670 in 
 1870 to 1,403 in 1880. Homesteads obtained under 
 timber claims, or by pre-emptions ; cash expense of 
 first, $18 to $26 ; of second, $14. 
 
 Population, 452,402, incl. 2,385 Colored, 18 Chi- 
 
286 
 
 nese and 235 Indians. U. S. Army excluded from 
 voting. 
 
 Number of colleges, 9 j school population, 135,- 
 511 ; school age, 5-21. 
 
 On the route from Omaha to Denver by the Union 
 Pacific R. R., numerous small cities, etc., are passed, 
 offering nothing noteworthy, though the distance is 
 565 miles. 
 
 The peculiar position of the Pacific Rail Roads in 
 duce me to describe their history in a brief extract. 
 
 As early as 1846, the project of a railway across the 
 continent was advocated by Asa Whitney, and in 1853 
 Congress passed an act providing for surveys by the 
 corps of topographical engineers. In 1862 and 1864 
 further acts were passed providing for a subsidy in U. 
 S. 6 per cent, gold bonds at specified rates per mile. 
 By these acts, the companies undertaking the work, 
 received 12,800 acres of land for each mile of railroad 
 built, or 25,000,000 acres in all. The Union Pacific 
 Company built the railroad from Omaha to Ogden, a 
 distance of 1,033 miles, and the Central Pacific Com 
 pany that from San Francisco to Ogden, 883 miles. 
 Work began in 1863 j the first 40 miles from Omaha 
 to Fremont were completed in 1865, and on the 12th 
 of May, 1869, the railroad communication from the At 
 lantic to the Pacific Ocean was opened. Nine Moun 
 tain ranges this route crosses, the highest of which 
 are the Black Hills, at an elevation of 8,242 ft. above 
 the sea, and the lowest Promontory Mountains, W. of 
 Great Salt Lake, 4,889 ft. The aggregate length of 
 
287 
 
 the tunnels, of which there are 15, all situated in the 
 Sierra Nevada or its spurs, is 6,000 ft. The gradients 
 do not often exceed 80 ft. to the mile. 
 
 The cost of the Union Pacific Eoad was reported to 
 the Secretary of the Interior at $112,259,360 ; but the 
 liabilities of the company at the date of the completion 
 of the road were $116,730,052. In 1868 Jesse L. 
 Williams, a civil engineer and one of the Government 
 directors, reported the approximate cost of the Union 
 Pacific Road in cash at $38,824,821. The cost of the 
 Central Pacific Road and branches (1,222 miles) in lia 
 bilities of every sort was reported in 1874 at $139,- 
 746,311. 
 
 During my repeated stays in the city of Denver I 
 had formed many valuable acquaintances, and enjoyed 
 the hospitality of Ex-Governor Eaton ? Lieutenant- 
 Governor Breen, Doctor Eisner and Mr. Rose. Doc 
 tor Eisner, a celebrated Physician in Denver, and his 
 amiable family were indefatigable in their efforts to 
 make my sojourn as pleasant and agreeable as possible. 
 Doctor Eisner s mineralogic-geological collection is the 
 second largest in the United States, and as a specific 
 American (from the Rocky Mountains), the first in the 
 world. 
 
 Of Mr. Addy, General Passenger Agent of the 
 Union Pacific R. R. Company 5 Major K. Hooper of 
 the Rio Grande R. R. Company the latter well-known 
 in the country as the author of descriptions of travels 
 and other journalistics ; of the Administration of the 
 Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe R. R. Company, and 
 
288 
 
 Commissioner Rich, I received many favors and im 
 portant informations, and to all of them I am under 
 deep obligations j thanking them with all my heart. 
 
 By the Denver and Silverton Division of the Den 
 ver and Eio Grande R. R., I crossed the Sangre di 
 Christo range by the wonderful La Veta Pass, at an 
 altitude of 9,486 ft. amid scenery of a remarkable 
 beauty and grandeur. The view of Sierra Blanca 
 14,464 ft. high, flanked by the serrated peaks of the 
 Sangre di Christo range, as seen from Alamosa, is no 
 where surpassed. W. of Antonita, 29 miles dis 
 tant, are the Los Pinos Canon and the Toltec Gorge, 
 the most wonderful scenic attractions of Colorado. For 
 a distance of 8 miles the railway runs just below the 
 brow of a precipitous mountain-range at the terror-in 
 spiring height of 1,200 ft. above the stream, following 
 the irregular contour of the mountains, through deep 
 cuts and over high hills, (Phantom Curve), till it comes 
 to the end of a mountain-wall that juts into the canon, 
 narrowing it to a mere gorge, 1,400 ft. in depth. Not 
 far from the gorge, the railway suddenly enters a tun 
 nel in the solid granite cliff, and 600 ft. further on 
 emerges upon a trestle-bridge and reaches Durango, 
 which is the supply depot for the famous San Juan 
 mining district, and the road continues to Silverton, 
 495 miles from Denver. At a distance of 30 miles 
 from Durango are the prehistoric cliff dwellings on 
 the Rio Mancos, among the most wonderful in America. 
 At Antonita the New Mexico Division of the R. Re 
 branches off to the S. and runs in 91 miles to Espanola, 
 
289 
 
 near which place are 8 ancient pueblos, inhabited by 
 Pueblo Indians whom the Spaniards found there only 
 48 years after the discovery of America, and in the 
 neighboring cliffs are numerous cave-dwellings prehis 
 toric in their origin. 
 
 Boulder was next visited. This is a mining town 
 and contains the State University, and in its proximity, 
 the famous Boulder Canon, a stupendous mountain- 
 gorge, 17 miles long, with walls of solid rock that rise 
 precipitously to a height of 3,000 ft. in many places. 
 
 About 8 miles from Boulder are the Falls of Boul 
 der Creek and at Longmont, 13 miles beyond Boulder, 
 is the starting point for an excursion through the pic 
 turesque Estes Park, to the summit of Longs Peak, 
 14,088 ft. high, affording one of the grandest views to 
 be obtained in Colorado. Beyond Longmont the rail 
 way gradually nears the mountains, crosses the beau 
 tiful and productive Cache la Poudre Valley at Fort 
 Collins, and for the last 50 miles runs at the base of 
 the Rocky Mountains. 
 
 In that region Tellurium mines are to be found, 
 this rare metal appearing in different admixtures, and 
 according to assurances made to me by the well-known 
 Geologist Professor Smith, yield exceedingly well. To 
 this Scientist also I am indebted for his kindness, 
 which induced me to prolong my stay in that region. 
 
 Fort Collins is a military post and contains the Ag 
 ricultural Institute and several handsome buildings. 
 
 Concluding thus my travels through the State of 
 
 Colorado, I proceeded to Wyoming Territory. 
 
 19 
 
290 
 
 The " Centennial State/ Colorado, is part of Louis 
 iana purchase of 1803. First explored by Vasquez 
 Coronado under the Spanish, 1540. 
 
 First expedition sent out by U. S. Government, 
 under Major Pike, 1806, a second under command of 
 Col. S. H. Long, 1820, and in 1842-44, Gen. John C. 
 Fremont made his celebrated trip across the Rocky 
 Mountains. First settlements made by miners, 1858- 
 1859; formed from parts of Kansas, Nebraska, Utah 
 and New Mexico; organized as a Territory, February, 
 1861; admitted, August 1, 1876. 
 
 Area, 103,925 square miles; length, 380 miles; 
 breadth, 280 miles; principal rivers, North and South 
 Platte, Arkansas, Snake, White and Green. 
 
 Temperature at Denver: winter, 25 to 37 ; sum 
 mer, 72 to 74. Rainfall of the State, from 15 to 20 
 inches, falling mostly between May and July. The 
 School of Mines is at Golden City. Colorado is the 
 richest State in the Union in mineral productions, 
 ranking first in silver, and fourth in gold. Cattle rais 
 ing a safe and profitable business ; sheep husbandry still 
 more profitable. 
 
 Population, 243,910, incl. 3,262 colored, 861 
 Chinese and 202 Indians. 
 
 Number of colleges, 3 ; school population, 40,208 ; 
 school age, 6-21. 
 
 Though I had formerely been in the Territory of 
 Wyoming, but only en route to the far West, I boarded 
 a train of the Union Pacific R. R. for Cheyenne, the 
 capital of Wyoming. Cheyenne has a population of 
 
291 
 
 6,000, representing chiefly the stock and mining 
 interests. The city is substantially built and contains 
 a fine Court House and Jail, a pretty City Hall and an 
 extensive round-house and shops. 
 
 The military post of Fort D. A. Russell is located 
 here. 
 
 A few miles beyond Cheyenne the ascent of the 
 Rocky Mountains begins, and at a distance of about 33 
 miles the train passes Sherman, one of the highest R. 
 R. stations in the world, 8,235 ft. high. Here com 
 mences the descent to the Laramie Plains, which are 
 about 40 miles wide on the average and 100 miles long, 
 bounded by the Black Hills and the Medicine Bow 
 Mountains. Enormous flocks of sheep graze on the 
 plains, said to be the best grazing in the United States. 
 There is an abundance of game, such as antelopes, 
 mountain-sheep and bears, in the neighboring hills. 
 
 Laramie City is 56 miles from Cheyenne and is 
 situated on Laramie river, in the midst of the Laramie 
 Plains. Its population is 3,000, but is rapidly increas 
 ing. It is the end of a division of the R. R., and has 
 large machine and repair shops, and the rolling-mills of 
 the company. The city is regularly laid out and con 
 tains several handsome buildings. Within 30 miles of 
 Laramie there are deposits of antimony, cinnabar, gold, 
 silver, lead, plumbago, and several other minerals. 
 Beyond Laramie the road traverses the Plains for many 
 miles, crosses a region of rugged hills, and descends 
 once more into the valley of the North Platte. Near 
 Miser, 44 miles from Laramie City, are fine views of 
 
292 
 
 Laramie Peak on the right and Elk Mountain on the 
 left. The North Platte is reached at Fort FredSteele, 
 and then another steep ascent is begun. Creston is 
 upon the dividing ridge of the continent, from which 
 water flows each way ; E. to the Atlantic and W. to the 
 Pacific. 
 
 At Green River Station, the train emerges from the 
 desolate plains and enters a mountain region, which 
 affords some fine views and in a distance of 121 miles 
 enters Utah Territory. 
 
 Wyoming Territory was organized 1869. First 
 settlements, trading posts of Forts Laramie and 
 Bridges. 
 
 Area, 97,890 square miles; length, 350 miles ; 
 breadth, 275 miles. Largest rivers, Green, Snake, Big 
 Horn, Powder, Big Cheyenne and North Platte. 
 
 Temperature at Cheyenne: winter, 23 to 33; 
 summer, 63 to 69. Rainfall at Fort Laramie, 15 
 inches. Union Pacific runs through extreme south 
 from east to west, and connects Cheyenne with Den 
 ver. 
 
 Wheat, rye, oats and barley flourish, but frosts too 
 frequent for corn. Big Horn Country, in northwest, has 
 an area of 15,000 square miles; fine agricultural coun 
 try; water plentiful; game and fur-bearing animals 
 numerous, rendering it one of the most desirable hunt 
 ing grounds of America. Grazing interest important, 
 and increasing rapidly, more than half the area being- 
 rich grazing land. Mountains covered with forests of 
 coniferes, which will prove very useful for lumber. 
 
293 
 
 Mineral resources extensive ; iron ore abundant ; cop 
 per, lead, plumbago and petroleum found; gold in the 
 Sweetwater country and near Laramie City; valuable 
 deposits of soda in the valley of the Sweetwater. Coal 
 abundant and of good quality at Evanston, Carbon, 
 Rock Springs and other points; these deposits extensi 
 vely worked, and furnish nearly all the coal used by the 
 railroads and by settlements hundreds of miles east and 
 west. But little attention has as yet been given to 
 mechanical and manufacturing industries. 
 
 Population, incl. 298 Colored, 914 Chinese and 140 
 Indians- 20,789. Good school system started; school 
 population, 4,112; school age, 7-21. 
 
 Returned over the same road to Denver, and stay 
 ing there a short time, I left that lovely city and its 
 generous and warm-hearted citizens, starting on the 
 trip to Kansas, via Kansas Division of the Union Paci 
 fic R. R. The first noteworthy station is Kit Carson, 
 named after the great " Pathfinder/ and situated on 
 Sand Creek, about 20 miles above the spot where 
 Colonel Chivington s Indian massacre took place. 
 
 Fort Wallace, an important military post on the 
 boundary-line of Kansas, and Fort Hays, situated on a 
 commanding elevation, overlooking the plains, one of 
 the handsomest military posts in the West are passed. 
 Opposite the latter, upon Big Creek, is Hays City, once 
 the center of the Buffalo range. 65 miles beyond is 
 Ellsworth, situated on the Smoky Hill River, in a fine 
 stock-raising country. Numerous thriving villages in 
 a highly productive agricultural region are on the route 
 
294 
 
 to Manhattan, a busy and rapidly growing town, con- 
 taining an Agricultural High School. 
 
 Topeka, the capital of Kansas, is situated on both 
 sides of the Kansas River, which is here spanned by a 
 fine iron bridge. It contains one of the finest State 
 Houses in the West, and has 23,000 inhabitants. The 
 river affords excellent water-power, and there are 
 several important educational institutions. In the 
 vicinity, which is very fertile, are deposits of coal. 
 
 The U. S. Government Building and State Lunatic 
 Asylum are in course of erection. 
 
 At a distance of 30 miles from Topeka, situated en 
 both sides of the Kansas River, and built on a rolling 
 slope, is the beautiful city of Lawrence, with 10,000 
 inhabitants. The trade of Lawrence is very large, and 
 a dam across the river furnishes water-power for 
 numerous mills. The State University is located here. 
 The terminus of the above mentioned R. R, DivisioH 
 is Kansas City, in the State of Missouri. 
 
 Kansas City is the second city of Missouri in im 
 portance, contains a population of 115,000, and is sit 
 uated on the S. bank of the Missouri river, below the 
 mouth of the Kansas river, and near the Kansas bor 
 der. Its trade is immensely increasing, and due to the 
 12 important railroads, (which converge here), and the 
 steamboat traffic on the river. Its manufacturing in 
 terests are of no importance whatsoever. The first 
 bridge ever constructed across the Missouri, is in Kan 
 sas City, and is 1,387 ft. long. The Union R. R. De 
 pot is one of the finest in the West. 
 
295 
 
 There are some handsome public and private build 
 ings in the city. 
 
 From Kansas City I traveled again to the neigh 
 boring State of Kansas, and visited Leavenworth. 
 There is an important trade in agricultural products in 
 that city, and its population is 29,000. Fort Leaven- 
 worth and the Soldiers Home are of great interest to 
 the traveler. 
 
 Atchison, a lively city of 18,000 inhabitants, is 
 pleasantly situated on the right bank of the Missouri 
 river._ Nine railroads meet here and about 90 trains 
 arrive and depart every day, making it a railroad 
 center. The industry in manufacturing is very large 
 and incloses flour-mills, machine-shops, breweries, 
 engine-works, furniture, and carriage-factories. 
 
 It has several nice churches and a fine iron bridge 
 across the river. 
 
 After exploring different rural regions in this State 
 I proceeded to St. Joseph, Missouri. 
 
 The " Garden of the West," the State of Kansas, 
 takes its name from the Indian, signifying " Smoky 
 Water." Visited first by Spaniards, 1541, and by 
 French, 1719. Part of Louisiana purchase, and after 
 ward of Indian Territory. Organized as a Territory, 
 1854, admitted as a State, 1861. 
 
 Area, 82,080 square miles 5 length, 400 miles ; 
 breadth, 200 miles. Geographical center of the 
 United States, exclusive of Alaska. Missouri River 
 frontage, 150 miles; largest rivers, Solomon, Neosho, 
 Saline, Arkansas, Republican and Kansas. 
 
296 
 
 Temperature at Leavenworth : summer, 74 to 
 79; winter, 25 to 35; rainfall, 31 inches. 
 
 Institution for the Feeble-Minded at Osawatomie, 
 and for the education of the Blind, at Wyandotte ; for 
 Deaf-Mutes, Olathe. 
 
 Number of farms, 1860, 10,400; 1880, 138,561. 
 
 Average value per acre, cleared land, $19.12; 
 wooodland, $11.82. Peculiarly adapted for stock rais 
 ing. 
 
 Number of hands employed in manufactories, 12,064. 
 
 Population, 996,096, incl. 43,107 Colored, 19 Chi 
 nese and 815 Indians. 
 
 Number of colleges, 8 ; number of school houses, 
 over 5,000; school attendance, 69 per cent, of school 
 population; school age, 521. 
 
 St. Joseph, Missouri, has 32,431 inhabitants, several 
 educational institutions and an important trade. The 
 city is very wealthy and some of the public and pri 
 vate buildings are very handsome. The river is the 
 demarkation line, and is quite shallow here. 
 
 I also visited Jefferson City, the capital of Mis 
 souri, which is beautifully situated on high bluffs, over 
 looking the Missouri River for many miles. It has 
 6,000 inhabitants and is nicely built. The State 
 House is an extensive building, and the State Library 
 contains 12,000 volumes. There are numerous flour- 
 mills and factories in Jefferson City. 
 
 The " Pennsylvania of the West," the State of 
 Missouri, whose name is taken from that of the river 
 Missouri, signifying in Indian, " Mud River," was first 
 
297 
 
 settled at St. Genevieve by the French, 1755; organ 
 ized as a Territory, 1812; admitted 1821. 
 
 Area, 69,415 square miles; length, north and south, 
 275 miles; average breadth, 245 miles; Mississippi 
 River frontage, nearly 500 miles. 
 
 Temperature at St. Louis: winter, 30 to 43; 
 summer, 75 to 80 ; rainfall, 42 inches. 
 
 Number of farms, 215,575; average value per 
 acre, cleared land, $14.52; woodland, $8.25. 
 
 Lead is found in southwest, center and southeast, 
 having area of over 5,000 square miles. 
 
 Ranks first in mules ; third in oxen, hogs ; corn and 
 copper. 
 
 Population, 2,168,380, incl. 145,350 Colored, 91 
 Chinese and 113 Indians. 
 
 U. S. Army excluded from voting. 
 
 Number of Colleges, 17; school population, 741,- 
 632 ; school age, 6-20. 
 
 Per St. Louis and San Francisco R. R. and its 
 branches I continued my voyage, intending to visit a 
 few important places in the State of Arkansas and 
 afterward to explore the Indian Territory. 
 
 Passing Eureka Springs and Avoca with aothing 
 noteworthy, I arrived at Little Rock, Arkansas. The 
 capital of Arkansas and chief city of the State has 25,- 
 000 inhabitants, and is. built upon the first bed of rocks 
 that is met with in ascending the Arkansas River. The 
 city is regularly laid out, and the residences are sur 
 rounded by gardens adorned with shade-trees, present 
 ing a lovely appearance. 
 
298 
 
 Of the public buildings are worth to be mentioned, 
 the State House, New Custom House, Northern Medi 
 cal College, the Lunatic Asylum, the Military Institute 
 of St. John s College, and some of the churches are 
 also very pretty. The U. S. Arsenal and Land Office, 
 the State Institutions for Deaf-Mutes and the Blind, 
 and the State Penitentiary are located here. The 
 State Library contains 12,500 volumes. 
 
 From Malvern, 42 miles S. of Little Rock, the Hot 
 Springs R. R. diverges and runs in 25 miles to the 
 famous Hot Springs. 
 
 The town is only an appendage of the Sanitarium 
 and contains 3,000 inhabitants. 
 
 The 66 springs issue from the W. slope of Hot 
 Springs Mountain, vary in temperature from 93 to 
 160 F., and discharge into the Creek about half a 
 million of gallons a day. 
 
 The waters are taken both internally and, in the 
 the form of baths, externally, and are remedial in 
 rheumatism, scrofula and diseases of the skin. 
 
 Not extending my travels in this State any farther, 
 I was busy in collecting statistic data about Arkansas, 
 and having been successful in obtaining them from 
 official sources, I reproduce the same as follows. 
 
 The "Bear State," State of Arkansas, the name of 
 which is of Indian origin, signifying u Smoky Water, 
 with prefix from French meaning "Bow," was settled 
 at Arkansas Post by French, 1685; became a Terri 
 tory, 1819; admitted as a State, 1836, seceded March 
 4, 1861; re-admitted 1868. 
 
299 
 
 Area, 53,850 square miles; length, north and 
 south, 240 miles; breadth, from 170 to 250 miles; 
 Mississippi Eiver frontage, about 400 miles. 
 
 Temperature at Little Rock: winter, 42 to 51 ; 
 summer, 79 to 82. Rainfall at Fort Smith, 40 
 inches ; and at Washington, 55 inches. 
 
 Number of farms, 94,433. Average value per 
 acre, cleared land $11.78; woodland, $3.48. 
 
 Number of different industries, 2,070; for tar and 
 turpentine, 26 ; sawing lumber, 354 , flour and grist, 
 807. 
 
 Coal along Arkansas River ; iron ores in Ozark 
 Mountains ; salt springs near Ouachita ; oilstone near 
 Hot Springs; kaolin in Pulaski County. 
 
 Population, 802,525, incl. 210,666 Colored, 133 
 Chinese and 195 Indians. Slaves, 1860, 111,115. 
 
 Number of colleges, 5; school population, 289,617; 
 school age, 621. 
 
 Having procured the necessary permit, etc., I 
 started first per Missouri Pacific, and afterwards 
 per Missouri, Kansas and Texas Division R. R., 
 and passed Fort Scott, established as a military 
 post in 1842, in whose vicinity there is an abundance 
 of bituminous coal; and Parsons, a flourishing city, 
 built on a high rolling prairie between and near the 
 confluence of the Big and Little Labette Rivers, and 
 then reached Vinita, the first station in the Indian 
 Territory. 
 
 The railroad traverses the country for 201 miles to 
 Durant, near the Texas border. 
 
300 
 
 Tlie towns, villages, etc., along the road are inhabi 
 ted by several Indian tribes, and their reservations are 
 inaccessible to white persons, that is, white people are 
 prohibited from settling there. I mention only a few of 
 them : Caddo, Caney, Atoka, Gap, Frink, Checotah, 
 Oaklaha, Muscogec, Leliaetta with the capital of the 
 Cherokee Indians, Tahlequa, the most important town, 
 and near by Adair and Catala, either close to the road 
 or sideways from it. 
 
 The Indian Territory, portion of great Louisiana 
 purchase was set apart for home of peaceable Indian 
 tribes ; organized 1834. Cut down to form States and 
 Territories, leaving but 64,690 square miles, or 41,- 
 401,600 acres 5 nearly 26,000,000 acres being Indian 
 reservations. 
 
 Length east and west on the north, 470 miles, 
 breadth west of 100th meridian, 35 miles, and east of 
 that line, about 210 miles. 
 
 Eeservations of Cherokees, 5,000,000 acres in north 
 and northeast ; Seminoles, 2,000,000 in east central , 
 Creeks, 3,215,495 in east; Chickasaws, 4,377,600 in 
 south; the Oklahoma country near centre. Principal 
 rivers, Arkansas and Red. Number of nations, agen 
 cies and reservations, 22. 
 
 Temperature at Fort Gibson: winter, 35 to 48; 
 summer, 77 to 82. Rainfall in extreme northwest, 
 20 inches, and at Fort Gibson, 36 inches. Railroad 
 mileage, 372. 
 
 Capital of Chickasaws, Tishomingo ; of Chocktaws, 
 Tushkahoma; of Creeks, Muscogee j of Osages, Paw- 
 
301 
 
 huska; of Seminoles, Seminole Agency; of Pawnees, 
 Pawnee Agency; of Kiowas and Comanches, Kiowa 
 and Commanche Agency. 
 
 Corn, wheat, tobacco, cotton and potatoes yield 
 luxuriantly. 
 
 Stringent laws to protect from encroachments by 
 whites. They can hold land only by marrying into 
 one of the tribes. 
 
 Recent official reports give Indian population about 
 80,000 : Cherokees, 20,000 ; Chocktaws, 16,500 ; 
 Creeks, 14,500; Chickasaws, 7,000; Seminoles, 2,500; 
 Osages, 2,390; Cheyennes, 3,298; Arapahoes, 2,676; 
 Kiowas, 1,120; Pawnees, 1,438; Comanches, 1,475. 
 
 No Territorial Government has as yet been organi 
 zed, owing to differences in the views of Congress and 
 the tribes. For each agency a deputy is appointed by 
 the President to represent the United States, but each 
 tribe manages its own internal affairs. Most of the 
 tribes governed by chiefs. 
 
 Of first five tribes, 33,650 can read and have 
 16,200 houses, 195 schools and 6,250 pupils. Ex 
 pended from tribal funds for educational purposes, 
 $156,856 ; from government appropriation for freedmen, 
 $3,500. 
 
 From the trip to the Indian Territory, en route for 
 Chicago, I took a rest in the latter and again explored 
 the State of Illinois, in order to complete my Statistics 
 of the State. 
 
 Kankakee was begun with. It is situated upon the 
 river of the same name, which is one of the principal 
 
302 
 
 tributaries of the Illinois, and has 6,000 inhabitants. 
 Its manufactures , including iron-foundries, machine- 
 shops, woolen-mills, tool-works, plan ing-mills, etc., 
 are very important. In the nearest neighborhood 
 of Kankakee are quarries of a superior kind of lime 
 stone. 
 
 Bloomington was the next city visited. It is an 
 important railroad center, and the seat of large manu 
 facturing and shipping interests, and has 22,000 in 
 habitants. The Illinois Wesleyan University has 
 15,000 volumes in its library and is a famous high- 
 school, and there are other important educational insti 
 tutions in the city. The Major Female College and 
 the Female Seminary are of high standing. Some of 
 the public buildings are handsome, and the construction 
 and repair shops of the Chicago and Alton R. R. cover 
 13 acres of ground. 
 
 Peoria, a city of 30,000 inhabitants, situated on the 
 W. bank of the Illinois river, and at the lower end of 
 Peoria Lake, is an important railway center. The 
 Courthouse, the Normal School, the City Hall and the 
 Library, with 10,000 volumes, and several of the 28 
 churches are very handsome edifices. The main 
 business is manufacturing, consisting of distilleries, 
 breweries, iron-foundries, machine shops, carriage and 
 furniture factories, engine and locomotive shops, etc. 
 The city is surrounded by a fertile prairie, and in its 
 vicinity very rich mines of bituminous coal are 
 worked. 
 
 Quincy, picturesquely situated on a lime-stone bluff 
 
303 
 
 125 ft. above the Mississsippi and with a popula 
 tion of 27,275, is a railroad center. The city is well 
 built, and the trade extensive. The Hanibal and St. 
 Joseph R. R. crosses the river here on a fine bridge. 
 
 Extending my journey to Springfield, the capital of 
 Illinois, I remained in that beautiful city several days. 
 It contains 30,000 inhabitants and is built on a beauti 
 ful prairie, 5 miles S. of the Sangamon river. The 
 streets are broad and tastefully adorned with shade trees. 
 From the beauty of the place and its surroundings, 
 Springfield is called the "Flower City." One of the 
 finest Capitols in the United States is the Springfield 
 Capitol, and there are numerous noteworthy public 
 and private buildings in the city, among which the U. 
 S. Building, the County Court House, the High School, 
 State Arsenal, St. John s Hospital and the Opera 
 House deserve special mention. In Oak Ridge Ceme 
 tery, 2 miles N. of the city, lie the remains of President 
 Lincoln, to whose memory a noble monument was 
 erected. The trade of the city is extensive, the sur 
 rounding country very productive, and vast coal-mines 
 in the vicinity. The chief* manufacturing establish 
 ments are foundries and machine shops, flouring-mills, 
 woolen-mills, rolling-mills, breweries and a watch- 
 factory. The extensive shops of the Wabash R. R. are 
 worth paying a visit. 
 
 With this latter city, I concluded my explorations 
 in Illinois. 
 
 The " Prairie or Sucker State/ the State of Illinois, 
 has its name from a tribe of Indians, signifying, "A 
 
304 
 
 superior class of men." First permanent settlement by 
 French at Kaskaskia, 1 682 ; organized as a Territory, 
 1809; admitted as a State, 1818. 
 
 Area, 56,650 square miles; greatest length, 385 
 miles; greatest breadth, 218 miles; highest land, 1,150 
 feet. Has 4,000 miles navigable streams. 
 
 Temperature at Chicago: winter, 25 to 37; 
 summer, 68 to 73. At Cairo: winter, 35 to 54 ; 
 summer, 76 to 80. Rainfall at Peoria, 35 inches. 
 
 Kaskaskia, first capital, which was removed to 
 Vandalia, 1818, and to Springfield, 1836. 
 
 Number of farms, 255,741, of which 175,497 are 
 occupied by owners. Value per acre, cleared land, 
 $33.03; woodland, $23.68. 
 
 First recorded coal mine in America located near 
 Ottawa, 1669. Coal area, cover three fourths of entire 
 State; estimated to contain one-seventh of all known 
 coal in North America. Superior quality lime-stone 
 on Fox and Desplaines rivers ; lead, most important 
 mineral; galena in center of richest diggings of the 
 Northwest. Rich salt wells in Salin and Gallatin 
 counties, 75 gallons brine-making 50 pounds salt. 
 
 Ranks first in corn, wheat, oats, meat-packing, 
 lumber traffic, malt and distilled liquors and miles rail 
 way ; second in rye, coal, agricultural implements, soap 
 and hogs. 
 
 Population, 3,077,871, incl. 46,368 Colored, 209 
 Chinese, 3 Japanese and 140 Indians. School system 
 excellent; number of colleges, 28; school age, 6-21. 
 
 My next aim was the State of Indiana, and the 
 
305 
 
 first place visited, Terre Haute, a long distance from 
 Chicago. On the route to Terre Haute numerous 
 flourishing towns and villages are passed, and a pro 
 ductive agricultural region is traversed. The city 
 contains 33,000 inhabitants and is situated on the E. 
 bank of the Wabash river, which is here spanned by 
 3 bridges. It contains 2 Orphan Asylums, a number 
 of fine public buildings, Coate s Female College, a 
 Public Library, the Rose Polytechnic School, the State 
 Normal School, St. Anthony s Hospital and several nice 
 churches. Its manufactures are extensive, and consist 
 of carriage and wagon works, machine-shops, nail- 
 works, blast furnaces, car-works, rolling-mills, woolen- 
 mills, and 7 flour mills, with a daily capacity of 3,300 
 barrels. The Artesian well, 2,000 ft. deep, is celebra 
 ted for its medicinal virtue. 
 
 Terre Haute is the point of intersection of 9 railroaad 
 lines, and is the center of trade for a populous region. 
 
 From here I traveled to Indianapolis, the capital of 
 Indiana. 
 
 Indianapolis is the largest city in the State, and 
 situated on the W. fork of White river, near the center 
 of the State. The city is built in a fertile plain and 
 has beautiful and wide streets. Its population is 
 75,074, and the trade and manufactures very exten 
 sive. The principal industry is pork-packing, and 
 manufactures of machinery, agricultural implements, 
 cars, carriages, furniture and flour. It is one of the 
 great railway centers of the West, no less than 14 rail 
 ways converge here. 
 
 20 
 
306 
 
 Of public buildings are noteworthy: the State 
 House, Court House, the State Lunatic Asylum, State 
 Institute for the Deaf and Dumb, the U. S. Arsenal, 
 the Post-Office, City Hall, County Jail and City 
 Prison. The Butler University admits both sexes, 
 and is 4 miles E. of the city. The principal charitable 
 institutions are: 3 Orphan Asylums, the State Female 
 Reformatory and Asylum, the Catholic Infirmary and a 
 City Hospital. Of churches there are many elegant 
 and costly in Indianapolis. 
 
 The Union Passenger Depot is one of the most 
 spacious structures of the kind in the United States. 
 The State Library contains 15,000 volumes and the 
 Free City Library 35,000 volumes. 
 
 Among the principal manufacturing industries are 
 the Atlas Engine- Works, Indianapolis Rolling-Mills 
 and Car-Shops, Haugh Iron- Works, Malleable Iron- 
 Works, Kingan Pork-Packing Houses, and the Tile- 
 W^orks, etc. 
 
 Lafayette, one of the principal cities of Indiana, 
 with 14,860 inhabitants, has a flourishing trade with 
 the surrounding country, and a number of important 
 factories, embracing machine-shops and foundries, 
 flour-mills, marble- works, breweries, woolen-mills, etc. 
 It is situated on the Wabash river, built on a rising 
 ground and inclosed in the rear by hills. The University 
 with which is associated the State College of Agricul 
 ture and the Mechanic Arts, is a richly endowed insti 
 tution. Lafayette is the point of intersection of 5 rail 
 way lines, and there are several handsome buildings, 
 
307 
 
 among them the County Jail, St. Mary s Academy, Ford s 
 School House, and the Opera House. From an Artesian 
 well, 230 ft. deep, near the center of the city, sulphur- 
 water issues freely. S. of the city limits are the County 
 Agricultural Fair Grounds, and 7 miles N. of Lafayette 
 is the battle-ground where General Harrison defeated 
 the Indians, November 7, 1811. 
 
 Fort Wayne is known as the "Summit City," from 
 the fact that it is on the water-shed from which the 
 streams run E. and W. It i^ situated at the point 
 where the Maumee river is formed by the confluence 
 of the St. Joseph and St. Mary s, and takes its name 
 from an old frontier fort which was built here in 1794, 
 and which was retained as a military station until 1819. 
 It is one of the chief cities of Indiana, with a popula 
 tion of 26,880, and extensive manufactures. The vast 
 machine-shops of the Pittsburg, Fort Wayne and 
 Chicago R. R., and of the Wabash, St. Louis and 
 Pacific R. R. are located here. 
 
 Among the public buildings are the Court House 
 and County Jail, and the Concordia College and the 
 Fort Wayne College are prominent educational institu 
 tions. 
 
 The " Hoosier State," the State of Indiana, was 
 first settled by Canadian voyagers at Vincennes, 1702 5 
 organized as a Territory, 1800 , admitted as a State, 
 1816. 
 
 Area, 36,350 square miles; extreme length, 276 
 miles; average breadth, 140 miles; shore line on Lake 
 Michigan, 40. 
 
308 
 
 Michigan City the lake port. 
 
 Temperature at Indianapolis: winter, 29 to 41; 
 summer, 73 to 78. Rainfall at Richmond, 43 
 inches. 
 
 Evansville, commercial center of the southwest; 
 population, 29,280. 
 
 Number of farms, 194,013 5 average value per acre, 
 clear land, $30.46; woodland, $26.90. Corn the most 
 valuable crop. Coal fields about 6,500 square miles, 
 extending from Warren County south to the Ohio; 
 varieties are coking coal, Indiana block and cannel. 
 
 Ranks second in wheat. 
 
 Population, 1,978,301, incl. 39,228 Negroes, 29 
 Chinese and 246 Indians. 
 
 Number of colleges, 15; State University at Bloom- 
 ington; Medical School at Indianapolis; University at 
 Notre Dame; flourishing common-school system ; school 
 population, 708,596; school age, 6-21. 
 
 The neighboring State cf Michigan was explored 
 from the starting-point, Fort Wayne, and the first place 
 visited was Adrian, the largest city in South Michigan, 
 with about 10,000 inhabitants and flourishing varied 
 manufactures. 
 
 The monument, erected in honor of the 77 inhabitants 
 of the city who lost their lives in the last civil war, is 
 exceedingly pretty. The city is regularly laid out and 
 has many fine structures. 
 
 Ann Arbor, a city of 8,000 inhabitants, situated on 
 both sides of the Huron river, is well known in the 
 Union as the seat of the University of Michigan, one of 
 
309 
 
 the leading institutions of learning in the West, con 
 taining departments of law, medicine, dentistry, etc., 
 and is open to both sexes. 
 
 The Observatory of the University is a mile from 
 the 6 ther buildings. The Library of the same, contains 
 45,000 volumes, and the Museums are large and valu 
 able. 
 
 The Union School at Ann Arbor is also famous, and 
 there are 5 mineral springs in the city, and several fine 
 churches. 
 
 Not far from here is the thriving city of Ypsilanti, 
 with 5,000 inhabitants, situated on the Huron river, 
 which furnishes water-power for several flour-mills, 
 paper-mills and other factories. The State Normal 
 School is located here. 
 
 Per Michigan Centeral R. R., traversing a fine 
 agricultural country, the City of Detroit is reached. 
 The chief city of Michigan, Detroit, is situated on the 
 N. bank of the Detroit river, 20 miles long, and con 
 necting Lakes Erie and St. Clair. 
 
 For at least 6 miles the river front is lined with 
 mills, dry-docks, foundries, ship-yards, railroad-depots, 
 grain-elevators, lumber-yards, rolling-mills, and ware 
 houses. 
 
 In 1783 Detroit was ceded to the United States, 
 but the Americans did not take possession of it till 
 1796. During the war of 1812 it fell into the hands of 
 the British, but was recaptured in 1813. It was in 
 corporated as a city in 1824, when its population was 
 less than 2,000 ; and now, in 1884 ; it has more than 
 
310 
 
 150,000 inhabitants. The manufactures of the city 
 are numerous and important, including extensive 
 machine-shops and iron-works, railroad-car factories, 
 tanneries, boot and shoe factories, chemicals, potteries, 
 manufactories of railway and vessel supplies, etc. 
 Pork and fish-packing employ numerous hands, and the 
 shipping interests are also large. 
 
 The Campus Martins on which the City Hall and 
 the Soldiers Monument stand, is a charming open space, 
 600 ft. long and 250 ft. wide. 
 
 Of the churches in the city, special mention 
 deserve : the Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul 
 (Catholic), St. Paul s (Episcopal), Fort St. Presbyterian 
 and Central Church (Methodist). 
 
 Whitney s Opera House is one of the finest in 
 America. The Police Headquarters Building and the 
 Freight Depot of the Michigan Central R. R. are the 
 most spacious and noteworthy structures in the city. 
 There are several educational and charitable institu 
 tions in this beautiful city, and the parks and suburbs 
 marvellously pretty. About 3 miles below the Michi 
 gan Central Depot, in whose neighborhood are the 
 great Wheat Elevators, is Fort Wayne, a bastioned 
 redoubt, standing upon the bank of the river and com 
 pletely commanding the channel. 
 
 In Detroit live relatives of my family, and they, as 
 well as the famous musical composer, Mr. Anton Stre- 
 letzki, a resident of that city, received me most cordially, 
 for which I here express my heartfelt thanks to them. 
 
 Before starting for the Dominion of Canada, I 
 
311 
 
 visited Lansing, the capital of the State, with 9,776 
 inhabitants, magnificent State Buildings, and several 
 famous institutions. The city is beautifully situated, 
 and the trade and few manufactures are important. 
 
 The "Wolverine or Lake State," the State of 
 Michigan, whose name is of Indian origin, signifying 
 "Lake Country," had first white settlements within 
 limits of State, Sault Ste. Marie, 1668; organized as a 
 Teritory, 1805; admitted, 1837. 
 
 Area, 58,915 square miles; length of lower penin 
 sula, from north to south, 277 miles ; greatest breadth, 
 259 miles. Length of upper peninsula, east to west, 
 318 miles; width, 30 to 164 miles. Length, lake 
 shore line, 1,620 miles. 
 
 Temperature at Detroit: winter, 24 to 36; sum 
 mer, 67 to 72; rainfall, 30 inches. 
 
 Grand Rapids, manufacturing city; population, 
 41,934; Bay City, 29,413 inhabitants; East Saginaw 
 29,100; Jackson, 19,136; Muskegon, 17,845; Sagi 
 naw, 13,767. 
 
 Detroit, Marquette, Port Huron and Grand Haven 
 are ports of entry. 
 
 Number of farms, 154,008. Value per acre, 
 cleared land, $34.39 ; woodland, $20.27. 
 
 Fruit raising an important industry. Copper mines in 
 Houghton, Ontonagon, and Keweenaw counties ; valu 
 able iron ores in Marquette and Delta counties ; coal in 
 Shiawassee, Eaton, Ingham and Jackson counties. 
 
 Salt manufactured in year ending November 30, 
 1884, 3,252,175 barrels. 
 
312 
 
 Ranks first in copper, lumber and salt; second in 
 iron ore. 
 
 Grand Haven, An Sable and Detroit are centers of 
 valuable fishing interests. 
 
 Population, incl. 17,548 Colored and 8,259 Indians: 
 1,843,369. 
 
 Duelists are excluded from voting. 
 
 Number of colleges, 9 ; efficient public schools ; 
 school age, 520. 
 
 Opposite Detroit, on Canadian soil, is the village 
 of Windsor, connected with Detroit by a steam-ferry, 
 on which the railroad train is carried across, and in 15 
 miles reaches Hamilton, a middle-sized, busy place, 
 and from here the Grand Trunk R. R. runs to Toronto, 
 the capital of the Province of Ontario. Situated on a 
 beautiful circular bay on the N. W. shore of Lake 
 Ontario, between the rivers Don and Humber, the 
 city is gently rising from its low site. 
 
 Toronto was founded in 1794 by Governor Simcoe, 
 who gave it the name of York, changed, when it was 
 incorporated as a city, in 1834, to Toronto- meaning, 
 in the Indian tongue "The Place of Meeting." 
 
 In 1813 it was twice captured by the Americans, 
 who destroyed the fortifications and burned the public 
 buildings. In 1817 the population was 1,200, and now 
 it is over 110,000. 
 
 Among the manufactures are iron and other 
 foundries, distilleries, flour-mills, breweries, paper, 
 furniture, etc. The finest buildings in the city and 
 among the finest of the kind in America are those of 
 
313 , > 
 
 the University of Toronto. The University Library 
 contains 20,000 volumes, and there is a- fine Museum 
 of Natural History. Knox College, the College of 
 Technology, the Normal School, Model Schools, 
 the Educational Museum, Trinity College, the 
 Upper Canada College, and the Public Library 
 are eminent schools of learning and beautiful struc 
 tures. 
 
 Among the churches, the Episcopal Cathedral of 
 St. James, the Wesleyan Methodist Church, and the 
 Cathedral of St. Michael (Catholic), are richly deco 
 rated, massive edifices. Osgoode Hall, containing the 
 Provincial Law Courts, the Provincial Lunatic Asy 
 lum, the General Hospital, Crystal Palace, Masonic 
 Hall, Grand Opera House and the Horticultural Gar 
 den-Pavilion and St. Lawrence Hall are noteworthy, 
 imposing buildings. 
 
 The Loretto Abbey is the principal nunnery in the 
 city, and the City Hall, Post Office, Custom House, 
 Court House and the Lawrence Market, unpretentious, 
 fine and spacious architectures. In the Queens Park 
 is the colossal marble statue of Britania, to the memory 
 of the Canadians who fell in repelling the Fenian in 
 vasion of 1866. 
 
 The trip down the St. Lawrence usually begins at 
 Kingston, which place I had reached from Toronto. 
 Kingston has 13,000 inhabitants, and is situated at the 
 foot of Lake Ontario. After leaving Kingston the 
 steamer enters the Lake of the Thousand Islands (in 
 the St, Lawrence). 
 
314 
 
 These islands are 1,692 in number and they ex 
 tend for 40 miles below Lake Ontario. 
 
 They are of every imaginable size, shape and ap 
 pearance, some scarcely visible, and others covering 
 many acres, some consisting of bare masses of rock, 
 others thickly wooded. The numerous light-houses, 
 marking out the navigable channel are fragile wooden 
 structures of rather dreary appearance. The chief 
 summer resort of the Thousand Islands is Alexandria 
 Bay. On the islets near the bay are many elegant vil 
 las, among which one is owned by Mr. Pullman, of 
 palace-car fame. About 8 miles S. E. of Alexandria 
 Bay are the romantic Lakes of Theresa, (Clear, Crys 
 tal, Mud, Butterfield, and Lake of the North). Brock- 
 ville, on the Canadian shore, is nn important town of 
 nearly 6,000 inhabitants, and at this point in the river 
 the Lake of the Thousand Islands ends. Thirteen miles 
 from Brockville, on the Canadian side, lies Prcscott, 
 and opposite the nourishing American city of Ogdens- 
 burg. A few miles below Ogdensburg the descent of 
 the first rapids (Gallopes Rapids) is made, and imme 
 diately afterward of the Rapide dc Plat. Dickinson s 
 Landing is at the head of the famous Long Sault 
 Rapids, which are 9 miles in length. Here the cele 
 brated sensation, known as u Shooting the Rapids 77 is 
 experienced. Until 1840 this passage was considered 
 impossible; but by watching the course of rafts down 
 the river, a channel was discovered and steamboats 
 then attempted it, for the first time, under the guid 
 ance of the Indian pilot Teronhiahere. The Cornwall 
 
315 
 
 Canal, 11 miles long, enables vessels to go round the 
 Rapids in ascending the river. 
 
 Cornwall is a thriving town at the foot of the 
 Rapids, opposite which is the large Indian village of 
 St. Regis. Just below this place the St. Lawrence, 
 now entirely in Canada, expands into Lake St. Fran 
 cis, 25 miles long and 5 miles wide. Coteau du Lac, 
 30 miles below Cornwall, is at the head of the Coteau 
 Rapids, which, 9 miles below r , take the name of the 
 Cedars, and, still further on, of the Cascades. At the 
 foot of the Cascades is Beauharnois, at the lower end 
 of a canal 11J miles long, around the Rapids. From 
 this point to the head of the Lachine Rapids the ex 
 panse of the river is called Lake St. Louis, which is 
 12 miles long and 5 miles "wide. One of the most 
 noticeable features of this lake is Nun s Island, former 
 ly an Indian burying-ground, but now the property 
 of the Grey Nunnery at Montreal. Lachine is at the 
 head of the Lachine Rapids which, though the short 
 est, are the most turbulent and dangerous on the river. 
 In calm water again, the spires, domes and towers of 
 Montreal are visible and soon afterward the city is 
 reached. 
 
 Montreal, the largest city and commercial metropo 
 lis of British North America, is situated on an island 
 of the same name, at the confluence of the Ottawa and 
 St. Lawrence Rivers, in lat. 45 31 N. and Ion. 73 
 35 W. I derives its name from Mont Real, or Mount 
 Royal, which rises 700 ft. above the river, and closes 
 the city in on that side. The quays of Montreal are 
 
316 
 
 built of solid limestone, and uniting with the locks and 
 cutstone wharves of the Lachine Canal, they present 
 for about 2 miles a display of continuous masonry 
 which has few parallels. The first visit to Montreal 
 dates from 1535, when Jacques Cartier arrived, who 
 named its mountain. 
 
 In 1642 arrived the first installment of European 
 settlers, and the original Indian name "Hochelaga" gave 
 place to the French one of {t Ville Marie. 7 This name 
 was afterward replaced by the present one. In Novem 
 ber 1775, Montreal was captured by the Americans 
 under General Montgomery and held until the follow 
 ing summer. In 1779 it contained about 7,000 inhabi 
 tants. In 1861 the population had increased to 90,323, 
 and in 1880 to 140,747. The commerce of Montreal is 
 very large, it being the chief shipping-port of the 
 Dominion of Canada. Its manufactures are varied and 
 important, the principal are axes and saws, steam- 
 engines, printing-types, India-rubber shoes, paper, 
 furniture, woolens, cordage, and flour. 
 
 The Court House contains a library of 15,000 vol 
 umes, and back of it is the Champ de Mars, a fine 
 military parade-ground. 
 
 The City Hall, the Bank of Montreal, Molson s 
 Bank, the huge Victoria Skating-Eink, used in sum 
 mer for horticultural shows, and the Mechanics 7 Insti 
 tute are elaborately decorated structures. 
 
 Few American cities equal Montreal in the size and 
 magnificence of its church edifices. The Roman Catho 
 lic Parish Church of Notre-Dame is next to the Cathe- 
 
317 
 
 dral of Mexico the largest on the continent, capable of 
 seating from 10,000 to 12,000 people. In one of the 
 six towers is a fine chime of bells, the largest of which, 
 the "Gros Bourdon," weighs 24,900 pounds. The 
 Cathedral of St. Peter, now in the course of erection, 
 (after the plan of St. Peter s at Rome), will surpass this 
 huge structure in size. Christ Church Cathedral 
 (Episcopal), the Church of the Gesu (Jesuit), and St. 
 Andrew s Church (Presbyterian), are the most eminent 
 of the numerous churches in this city. 
 
 First among the educational institutions is the Uni 
 versity of McGill College, with one of the finest mu 
 seums in the country. 
 
 The museum of the Natural History Society has 
 also a valuable collection, and the Seminary of St. Sul- 
 pice, for the education of Catholic Priests, is very 
 famous. The Grey Nunnery, the Black or Congrega 
 tional Nunnery, and the great Convent of the Holy 
 Names of Jesus and Mary are devoted to the education 
 of young persons of the female sex. 
 
 The Hotel Dieu, founded in 1644 for the cure of 
 the sick is an imposing structure, and the Montreal 
 General Hospital, and the Deaf and Dumb Asylums 
 are noble charities. The old Government House, the 
 Nelson Monument, the Water Works and the Bonse- 
 cours Market are of special interest and worth visiting. 
 
 The eighth wonder of the world, as it has been 
 called, is the Victoria Bridge in Montreal, wLIch spans 
 the St. Lawrence, connecting the city on the island 
 with the mainland to the S. The total cost of the 
 
318 
 
 bridge, formally opened by the Prince of Wales, during 
 his visit to America in the summer of I860, was $6,- 
 300,000. 
 
 After seeing the Lachine Rapids most advanta 
 geously, I proceeded to the White Mountains, via 
 Grand Trunk R. R. to Gorham. 
 
 The aboriginal name of the White Mountains, the 
 "Switzerland" of America, was Agiochook or Agioco- 
 chook, signifying "Mountain of the Snowy Forehead 
 and Home of the Great Spirit." The first white man 
 to visit them, according to Belknap, the State Histor 
 ian, was Walter Neal, in 1632. 
 
 The White Mountains rise from a plateau in 
 Grafton and Coos Counties, New Hampshire, about 45 
 miles long by 30 broad, and 1,600 ft. above the sea. 
 Some 20 peaks of various elevations rise from the 
 plateau, which is traversed by several deep, narrow 
 valleys. The peaks cluster in two groups, of which 
 the eastern is known locally as the White Mountains, 
 and the western as the Franconia Group. They are 
 separated by a table-land varying from 10 to 20 miles 
 in breadth. The principal summits of the eastern 
 group are Mounts Washington, 6,293 ft. high, Adams, 
 5,759 ft., Jefferson, 5,657 ft., Madison, 5,361 ft., Mon 
 roe, 5,349 ft., Franklin, 4,850 ft., Pleasant, 4,712 ft., 
 Webster, Clinton, and Clay. The principal summits 
 of the Franconia Group are Mounts Pleasant, Lafayette, 
 5,280 ft. high, Liberty, Cherry Mountain, and Moosi- 
 laukee. Near the S. border of the plateau rise White- 
 face Mountain, Chocorua Peak, Red Hill, and Mount 
 
Ossipee ; and in the S. E v Mount Kearsarge. With 
 the exceptions of the Black Mountains of North Caro 
 lina, several of these peaks are the highest elevations 
 in the United States E. of the Rocky Mountains. 
 
 Multitudes of little streams force their way down 
 steep giens from springs far up the mountain-sides, and 
 flow through narrow valleys among the hills. The 
 courses of these rivulets furnish irregular but certain 
 pathways for the rough roads that have been cut be 
 side them, and by which the traveler gains access to 
 these wild mountain-retreats. 
 
 Gorham is the N. E. gateway to the mountain- 
 region. It is a thriving village, situated in a broad 
 and beautiful valley at the confluence of the Andros- 
 coggin and Peabody Rivers, 800 ft. above the sea. 
 The scenery in the vicinity of the village is remarkably 
 striking, both in the views of the mountain-ranges and 
 isolated mountains, and of rivers and waterfalls. The 
 range of Mounts Moriali, Carter, and The Imp, in par 
 ticular is seen to great advantage. 
 
 Mount Carter is one of the highest and Mount 
 Moriah the most graceful of the larger New Hampshire 
 hills. The noble chain of hills to the N. W. of Gorham 
 is known as the Pilot Range j while on the E. and S. 
 E. the valley is walled in by the stalwart and brawny 
 Androscoggin Hills. Mount Hays, the highest of these 
 latter, 2,500 ft., is directly N. E. of the village and is 
 ascended in about 2 hours. 
 
 Though I had stayed a considerably long time in that 
 mountain-region, it is, nevertheless, impossible to de- 
 
320 
 
 * 
 
 scribe all the visited spots, and concluding my graphics 
 on the White Mountains, I board a train of the Grand 
 Trunk R. R ., bound for Quebec. 
 
 Quebec, the oldest, and after Montreal the most 
 important city in British North America, is situated on 
 the N. W. bank of the St. Lawrence River, at its con 
 fluence with the St. Charles, nearly 300 miles from the 
 Gulf of St. Lawrence. It is built on the N. extremity 
 of an elevated tongue of land which forms the left bank 
 of the St. Lawrence for several miles. Cape Diamond, 
 so called from the numerous quartz-crystals former 
 ly found there, is the loftiest part of the headland, 333 
 ft. above the river, on which the vast fortifications of 
 the Citadel are located. They occupy about 40 acres, 
 and were once considered so impregnable, that they ob 
 tained for Quebec the name of the (f Gibraltar of 
 America." The city is divided into the Upper and 
 Lower Town, the ascent from the latter is very steep 
 and winding and called Mountain Street, or Cote de la 
 Montagne. 
 
 The site of Quebec was visited by Cartier in 1534, 
 and the city was founded by Champlain in 1608. It 
 was taken by the English in 1629, and restored to 
 France by the treaty of 1632. In 1690 the neighbor 
 ing English colonies made an unsuccessful maritime 
 expedition against it, and in 1711 the attempt was re 
 newed, with no better success. In 1759, during the 
 Seven Years* War, the English under General Wolfe 
 attacked the city and bombarded it. On September 
 13, the first battle of the plains of Abraham took place, 
 
321 
 
 in which both Wolfe and Montealm, the French Com 
 mander, fell, and England gained at one blow an 
 American Empire. The French recaptured the city 
 the next spring, but at the treaty of peace in 1763 
 Louis XV ceded the whole of New France to the Eng 
 lish. In December 1775, a small American force, 
 under General Montgomery, attempted its capture, but 
 failed, after losing 700 men and their commander. 
 The population of the city at that time was only 5,000. 
 In 1861 it was 59,900, and in 1881, 62,500. Quebec 
 has a large maritime commerce and is one of the great 
 est lumber and timber markets on the American Con 
 tinent. The chief articles of manufactures are ships, 
 saw-mill products, boots and shoes, confectionery, 
 bakery-products, furniture, foundry-products, machin 
 ery, paper, leather, cutlery, musical instruments, and 
 India-rubber goods. 
 
 The five original gates in the city wall were re 
 moved some years ago, but new ones of a more or 
 namental character have since been built, viz. : Kent 
 Gate, named in honor of the father of Queen Victoria, the 
 Duke of Kent; St. Louis Gate, and St. John s Gate. 
 Dufferin Terrace, lies along the edge of the cliff, 
 towering 200 ft. above the river, and overlooking the 
 Lower Town. Part of it occupies the site of the old 
 Chateau St. Louis, built by Champlain in 1620, and 
 destroyed by fire in 1834. Dufferin Terrace, opened 
 to the public in June, 1879, by the Marquis of Lome 
 and Princess Louise, is an unequalled promenade over 
 
 J mile long. 
 
 21 
 
322 
 
 The outlook from the Terrace is one of the finest 
 in the world. The Esplanade is another attractive 
 promenade. The view from the Grand Battery is 
 considered by some finer even than that from the Ter 
 race. 
 
 Laval University contains a spacious chemical 
 laboratory, with complete apparatus 5 the geological, 
 mineralogical, and botanical collections ; the museum 
 of zoology, containing upward of 1,300 different birds 
 and 7,000 insects; and the especially complete museum 
 of the medical department. The Library numbers 
 nearly 90,000 volumes, and the Picture Gallery is one 
 of the finest. The Quebec Literary and Historical 
 Society has rich collections of manuscripts. The 
 Seminary of Quebec, founded 1663 by M. de Laval, 
 first bishop of Quebec, contains in its Chapel some fine 
 paintings. Morrin College has in its buildings the 
 museums of the Historical Society and the library, con 
 taining 12,000 volumes. 
 
 The former Cathedral of Quebec, now the Basilica, 
 is a spacious cut-stone building, seating 4,000 persons 
 and contains in its richly decorated interior several 
 original paintings of Vandyke, Caracci, Halle and 
 others. In this Basilica lie the remains of Cham plain, 
 the founder and first Governor of the city. There are 
 numerous churches and chapels in Quebec, some of them 
 handsome edifices. 
 
 Other noteworthy buildings are the Ursuline Con 
 vent, founded in 1639; in the Chapel of the Convent 
 are some original paintings by Vandyke, Champagne, 
 
323 
 
 and others, and here are buried the remains of the 
 Marquis de Montcalm; the Grey Nunnery, which has 
 a richly ornamented Chapel 5 the Hotel Dieu, with its 
 convent and chapel, founded in 1639, by the Duchess 
 d Aiguillon, and in whose convent chapel are some 
 valuable paintings; the Black Nunnery 5 the Post- 
 Office; Custom House; Marine Hospital; General 
 Hospital; and the Parliament and Departmental Build 
 ings (not completed), and numerous others. The 
 historic Plains of Abraham are in the suburbs, and on 
 the spot where General Wolfe fell in the memorable 
 battle of September 13, 1759, stands Wolfe s Monument. 
 On the plains stands the Monument commemorating the 
 victory won by the Chevalier de Levis over General 
 Murray in 1760. 
 
 Within excursion distance of Quebec are several 
 points of interest and fine drives. Lorette, an ancient 
 village of the Huron Indians, is 9 miles distant, and the 
 Falls of the Little River, near the village, are very 
 picturesque. Eight miles below Quebec are the Falls 
 of Montmorenci, wonderfully beautiful, and the Falls of 
 Chaudiere, ten miles from the city. The rapid river 
 plunges, in a sheet 350 ft. wide, over a precipice 150 
 ft. .high, presenting very much the look of boiling 
 water. 
 
 The Quarantine for Quebec is at Grosse Isle, 30 
 miles down, and a little beyond Chateau Richer is St. 
 Anne de Beaupre, famous for its church of St. Anne, in 
 which miraculous cures are said to be effected by the 
 relics of the Saint, which are exhibited at morning 
 
324 
 
 mass. The celebrated Falls of St. Anne are very 
 beautiful. The lower fall is 130 ft. high, and below it 
 the water rushes down through a somber, and picture 
 sque ravine. 
 
 Eight miles below St. Anne is Cape Tourment, a 
 bold promontory, and a little beyond are the frowning 
 peaks of Cape Rouge and Cape Gribaune. 
 
 From Goose Island to the Saguenay River, the St. 
 Lawrence is about 20 miles wide, and black whales are 
 often seen in its waters. Riviere du Loup, and Caco- 
 una, 6 miles below, the favorite summer resort of the 
 Canadians, are miraculously pretty places, and opposite 
 the latter is the mouth of the Saguenay River. Tado- 
 usac was the first place visited, en route the Saguenay 
 River. It is a small village, situated a short distance 
 above the mouth of the river, and apart from its attrac 
 tions as a watering-place, is interesting as the spot on 
 which stood the first stone-and-mortar building ever 
 erected by Europeans on the Continent of America. 
 The scenery here is wild and romantic in the extreme. 
 St. John s Bay, Eternity Bay, the latter offering the 
 most striking feature of the river scenery, are unequal 
 led, and farther on is Statue Point, a grand bowlder, 
 1,000 ft. high, noticeable for a cave half way up 
 its face, utterly inaccessible from above or below, 
 and still farther above is Le Tableau, a lofty plateau. 
 A few miles beyond is the entrance to Ha! Ha! Bay, 
 which runs 7 miles S. W. from the Saguenay River. It 
 was so named on account of the delightful contrast 
 which the first French Voyagers there beheld after the 
 
325 
 
 awful solitude of the lower river. Chicoutimi, about 
 20 miles above Ha ! Ha ! Bay , is the head of navigation 
 on the river, and has considerable trade. Before 
 entering the Saguenay, the Chicoutimi River plunges 
 over a granite ledge 50 ft. high. Nine miles above 
 Chicoutimi begin the Rapids of the Saguenay, said to 
 be little inferior in grandeur to those of the Niagara and 
 a great deal longer. 
 
 The Saguenay is the largest tributary of the St. 
 Lawrence, and undoubtedly one of the most remarkable 
 rivers in the world. Its head-water is Lake St. John, 
 40 miles long and nearly as wide, which, although 11 
 large rivers fall into it, has no other outlet than the 
 Saguenay. 
 
 The original name of this river was Chicoutimi, an 
 Indian word, signifying deep water; and its present 
 name is said to be a corruption of St. Jean Nez. The 
 course of the Saguenay is about 140 miles from Lake 
 St. John to the St. Lawrence, which it enters 120 miles 
 below Quebec. 
 
 Per Grand Trunk R. R. via Coteau, and afterward 
 per Canada Atlantic, and the Gtmadian Pacific Rail 
 Roads, I continued my voyage to Ottawa. 
 
 The capital of the Dominion of Canada is situated 
 one the S. bank of the Ottawa river, at the mouth of 
 the Rideau. It is divided into the Upper and Lower 
 Town by the Rideau Canal, which passes through it 
 and connects it with Kingston, on Lake Ontario. 
 Bridges also connect the city with the towns of Hull 
 and New Edinburgh, on the opposite side of the Ottawa 
 
326 
 
 river. Ottawa was originally called Bytown, in honor 
 of Colonel By, of the Royal Engineers, by whom it was 
 laid out in 1827. It was incorporated as a city under 
 its present name, 1854, and was selected by Queen 
 Victoria as the seat of the Canadian Government in 
 1858. 
 
 It has 40,000 inhabitants, and is the entrepot of the 
 lumber-trade of the Ottawa and its tributaries, and has 
 a number of large saw-millls, several flour-mills, and 
 manufactories of iron-castings, mill-machinery, agricul 
 tural implements, etc. 
 
 The Government Buildings are the chief feature of 
 the city and cost $4,000,000. They contain the vari 
 ous Government bureaus, the Post-Office, the Model- 
 Room of the Patent-Office, the Senate Hall, the Cham 
 ber of Commons, and the Library, containing 40,000 
 volumes. 
 
 The official residence of the Governor-General, is in 
 New Edinburgh, across the Rideau river. 
 
 After the Government Buildings the most imposing 
 edifice in the city is the Roman Catholic Cathedral of 
 Notre Dame. In the interior of the Cathedral is a 
 painting by Murillo, representing the "Flight into 
 Egypt." The Ottawa University, the Ladies College, 
 and the Normal School, and Model College, the great 
 geological Institute, are eminent schools. 
 
 There are in the city two convents, two hospitals, 
 three orphan asylums, a Magdalen asylum and the Grey 
 and Black Nunneries. 
 
 The scenery in the vicinity of Ottawa is really 
 
327 
 
 grand, at the W. extremity are the Chaudiere Falls. 
 The Rideau Falls, two in number, are very attractive. 
 
 Returned to Montreal for the purpose of obtaining 
 official statistics, and than to explore the Adirondacks, 
 Lake George, and Lake Champlain before starting for 
 New York ; I consider it my duty to publicly express 
 my sincerest thanks to the numerous friends, left behind 
 in the hospitable Dominion of Canada, for the many 
 favors conferred upon me; especially to the German 
 Consul Mr. Munderloh and his Secretary, the amiable 
 families of Messrs. Boas and Moss, and the learned 
 body of McGill University, in particular the Botan 
 ist Penhallou, and to several clergymen in Montreal; 
 to the acting Prime Minister, Mr. Pierre Garneau, 
 and the German Consul in Quebec; to the Scientists 
 of the Geological Institution, and to Professor Fletcher 
 of the Experimental Agricultural Station in Ottawa, 
 by whose kindness I was enabled to send a rich col 
 lection to Europe. 
 
 The most populous Province of the Dominion of 
 Canada is Ontario, established in 1867. Previous to 
 1791 it formed part of the Province of Quebec; from 
 1791 to 1840 known as Upper Canada; in 1840 re 
 united with Quebec, under the name of Canada. 
 
 Area, (census of 1881), 101,733 square miles. Total 
 land occupied, 19,259,909 acres; improved, 11,294,- 
 109 acres, of which 8,370,266 acres were under crops; 
 2,619,038 acres in pasture, and 304,805 acres in gar 
 dens and orchards. 
 
 Temperature at Toronto: winter, 4.8 to 62.5 5 
 
328 -- 
 
 summer, 38.7 to 92.7; mean temperature, 44.16. 
 Rainfall at Toronto, 28.43 inches. The surface of the 
 country is diversified by numerous lakes and rivers. 
 
 The agricultural resources are very great, and the 
 mineral wealth varied and rich. 
 
 Public affairs are administered by a Lieutenant 
 Governor, assisted by an Executive Council of 6, and 
 a House of Assembly of 89 members. Ontario sends 
 24 members to the Dominion Senate. 
 
 Population of the Province, 1881,1,923,228. Num 
 ber of churches, 5,075; of which 2,375 are Metho 
 dists, 852 Presbyterian, 680 Church of England, 389 
 Baptist, and 367 Roman Catholic. There are 21 hos 
 pitals, and 22 orphanages. Number of colleges and 
 universities, 17; boarding schools, 44. 
 
 There is an excellent system of free schools under 
 the control of a Minister of Education and a Chief 
 Superintendent. School population, 405,857. Num 
 ber of high schools, public and private, 410; public 
 elementary schools, 5,313. 
 
 The agricultural products are wheat, barley, oats, 
 rye, beans, peas, buck-wheat, corn, potatoes, turnips, 
 hay, grass and clover seed, flaxseed, tobacco, and 
 hops. 
 
 Timber in abundance; and the 681 fisheries in the 
 Province very important. 
 
 Quebec is one of the most important of the Cana 
 dian Provinces. Earliest settlements made by Euro 
 peans, in 1541; first permanent settlement made by 
 the French on the present site of the city of Quebec, 
 
329 
 
 1608. Country occupied by the French until 1759, 
 when, through the victory of General Wolfe, it fell into 
 the hands of the English. 
 
 Area, census of 1881, 188,688 square miles. 
 
 Total amount of land occupied, 12,625,877 acres ; 
 improved, 6,410,264 acres, of which 4,147,984 were 
 under crop, 2,207,422 in pasture, and 54,858 in gar 
 dens and orchards. Population, 1,359,027. While 
 the climate is similar to that of Ontario, it is colder in 
 winter, and warmer in summer. At Montreal the 
 winters are very severe, the temperature often ranging 
 from zero to 10 and even 30 below it, and in sum 
 mer it is frequently 90 in the shade. 
 
 Public affairs are administered by a Lieutenant 
 Governor, assisted by an Executive Council, a Legis 
 lative Council of 24 members, and a Legislative As 
 sembly of 65 members. 
 
 The Province sends 24 members to the Dominion 
 Senate. The surface of the country is varied, consist 
 ing of extensive forests, large rivers, lakes and prai 
 ries, and bold rocky heights. The Province abounds 
 in numerous minerals. Among the agricultural pro 
 ducts are wheat, barley, oats, rye, peas, beans, buck 
 wheat, corn, potatoes, turnips, grass and clover seed, 
 hay, tobacco and hops. Public instruction is under 
 a Superintendent of Education; school population, 
 209,623. Number of elementary public schools, 4,404; 
 pupils, 170,858; colleges, 44; academies, 246 ; special 
 schools, 18; normal, 3; model, 333. 
 
 The forests are extensive, and the lumbering and 
 
330 
 
 * 
 
 shipbuilding interests are large. The products of the 
 fisheries are very valuable. 
 
 The prevailing religion is Roman Catholic. 
 
 The number adhering to that faith is, 1,170,718, 
 or about seven-eights of the entire population. Num 
 ber of churches in the Province, 1,280, of which 712 
 are Roman Catholics. 
 
 Number of hospitals, 29 5 orphanages, 11. 
 
 Among the statistics, those of British Columbia 
 were also kindly given to me, and, since I had exten 
 sively traveled in that distant Province, I am only too 
 glad to reproduce the same. 
 
 The Colony of British Columbia was established 
 1858, and admitted into the Dominion, 1871. Area, 
 including Vancouver s Island, 341,305 square miles. 
 Population, 49,459. Climate milder than that of same 
 latitude on the Atlantic coast. Country traversed 
 by Rocky and Cascade Mountains. Loftiest peak, 
 Mount Browne, 16,000 ft. high. Government consists 
 of a Lieutenant GoA^ernor, an Executive Council, and 
 a Legislative Assembly, elected by the people. Amount 
 of land occupied, 441,255 acres 5 improved, 184,885 
 acres. The grain product, potatoes and hops, impor 
 tant, and timber in abundance. The mineral wealth of 
 the Province is very great, the chief source being coal. 
 On the mainland and Vancouver s Island large deposits 
 of bituminous coal are found, and on Queen Charlotte s 
 Island a fine grade of anthracite. Gold is found in 
 various localities. In ten years the yield in the Pro 
 vince exceeded $22,000,000. 
 
331 
 
 The Adirondacks, situated in the northern part of 
 New York State, between Lakes George and Cham- 
 plain on the E., and the St. Lawrence on the N. W., 
 extend on the north to Canada and on the S. nearly to 
 the Mohawk River. The mountains rise from- an ele 
 vated plateau, which extends over this portion of the 
 country for 150 miles in width and 100 in length, and 
 is itself nearly 2,000 ft. above the level of the sea. 
 Five ranges of mountains, running almost parallel, 
 traverse this plateau from southwest to northeast, where 
 they terminate on the shore of Lake Champlain. The 
 most westerly, which bears the name of the Clinton 
 Range, begins at Little Falls and terminates at Trem- 
 bleau Point, on Lake Champlain. It contains the 
 highest peaks of the entire region, the loftiest being 
 Mount Marcy, or Tahawus, 5,337 ft. high, while 
 Mounts Seward, Mclntire, McMartin, Whiteface, Dix 
 Peak, Golden, Santanoni, Snowy Mountain and Pharaoh 
 are none far from 5,000 ft. high. The entire number 
 of mountains in the Adirondack region is supposed to 
 exceed 500, of which only a few have received separ 
 ate names. They are all wild and savage, and covered 
 with the "forest primeval/ except the stony summits 
 of the highest, which rise above all vegetation, but 
 that of mosses, grasses, and dwarf Alpine plants. 
 
 There are many beautiful lakes and ponds in the 
 mountain-valleys, numbering about 1,000. The gene 
 ral level of these lakes is about 1,500 ft. above the sea, 
 but Lake Perkins, the highest of them, has an eleva 
 tion of over 4,000 ft. Some are only a few acres in 
 
332 
 
 length, others cover 20 miles. Among the largest are 
 Long Lake, the Saranacs, Tupper, the Fulton Lakes, 
 and Lake Golden, Henderson, Sanford, Blue Mountain, 
 Kaquette, Forked, Newcomb, and Pleasant. This 
 labyrinth of lakes is connected by a very intricate sys 
 tem of rivers, rivulets, and brooks. The Saranac and 
 the Ausable run in nearly parallel lines toward the N. 
 E., discharging their waters into Lake Cham plain. 
 
 The largest and most beautiful river of the Adiron 
 dack region is the Raquette, rising in Raquettc Lake, 
 and after a devious course of 120 miles flowing into 
 the St. Lawrence. 
 
 The mountains are covered with forests, whilst in 
 the lower lands, along the rivers, a dense growth of 
 evergreens is common. In these solitudes are found 
 the black bear, the wolf, the lynx, the wild-cat, and 
 the wolverine. 
 
 Deer is abundant, also numerous smaller animals, 
 and birds, and the lakes and rivers swarm with fish. 
 
 Birmingham Falls, caused by the Ausable River 
 flowing over the Alice Falls, and then descending a 
 line of swirling rapids, where it plunges over a preci 
 pice 70 ft. high into a semicircular basin, is of great 
 beauty. A few rods further down are the Horse 
 shoe Falls, near which the gorge is entered from 
 above by a stairway of 166 steps leading down 
 a cleft in the rock. Below this the stream grows 
 narrower and deeper, and rushes through Ausable 
 Chasm, where at the narrowest point a wedged bowlder 
 cramps the channel to the width of 6 or 8 ft. Still 
 
333 
 
 lower down the walls stand about 50 ft. apart and are 
 more than 100 ft. high, descending to the water s edge 
 in a sheer perpendicular line. The chasm is nearly 
 2 miles long and offers very striking and beautiful 
 effects. 
 
 The Upper Saranac Lake, the largest and one of 
 the most beautiful of the Adirondack lakes, is 8 miles 
 long and from 1 to 3 miles wide, and its surface is 
 studded with little islands. 
 
 To describe all the beautiful spots in the Adiron- 
 dacks would fill volumes. 
 
 Lake George is a picturesque sheet of water in 
 Warren and Washington Counties, in New York State. 
 It is 33 miles long, and from f of a mile to 4 miles 
 wide. It is the most famous and most frequented of 
 American lakes. The scenery of its banks is admir 
 ably pretty, and the lake is bordered on either side by 
 high hills crowned with woods, etc. It empties into 
 Lake Champlain, from which it is separated by a 
 narrow ridge only 4 miles wide. The Indian name of 
 Lake George was "Horicon," meaning " silvery 
 waters ; " when the French discovered it, early in the 
 17th century, they named it "Le Lac du St. Sacra 
 ment," but its English conquerors called it after King 
 George II., then on the throne. 
 
 Lake George fills a conspicuous and romantic place 
 in American history. In the French and Indian War 
 it was repeatedly occupied by large armies, and was 
 the scene of several battles. In an engagement near 
 the S. end of the Lake, September 8 ? 1755, between 
 
334 
 
 the French and English, Colonel Williams of Massa 
 chusetts, the founder of Williams College, was killed, 
 Baron Dieskau, the French commander, severely 
 wounded, and the French totally defeated. 
 
 In 1757, Fort William Henry, at the same end of 
 the lake, was besieged by the French General Mont- 
 calm, at the head of 8,000 men. The garrison capitu 
 lated after a gallant defense, and were barbarously 
 massacred by the Indian allies of the French. In July, 
 1758, the army of General Abercrombie, about 15,000 
 strong, passed up the lake in 1,000 boats, and made an 
 unsuccessful attack on Ticonderoga. A year latter, 
 July, 1759, General Amherst, with an almost equal 
 force, also traversed the lake, and took Ticonderoga 
 and Crown Point. The head of Lake George was 
 the depot for the stores of the army of General Bur- 
 goyne before he began his march to Saratoga. 
 
 The most interesting points on the route to Lake 
 George are Glens Falls, on the Hudson river, at a fine 
 cataract 50 ft. high, and Caldwell, near the ruins of 
 old Fort George. 
 
 The nearest island to Caldwell is Tea Island, 
 bordered with picturesque rocks, and a mile and a half 
 beyond is Diamond Island, so named on account of the 
 beautiful quartz-crystals found on it in abundance. 
 Dome Island, richly wooded, is near the center of the 
 widest part of the lake, and there arc hundreds of other 
 strikingly beautiful places in and around Lake George, 
 which to describe is almost an impossibility. 
 
 Lake Chainplain, extending from Whitehall, in the 
 
335 
 
 State of New York, to St. John s, in Canada, is 126 
 miles long, and varies in breadth from 40 rods to 12 
 miles; containing upward of 50 islands and islets. 
 It depth varies from 54 to 399 ft., and vessels of 800 
 or 1,000 tons navigate its whole extent. The princi 
 pal rivers entering the lake are Wood Creek at its 
 head; the outlet of Lake George, the Ausable, Saranac, 
 and Chazy, from Nevy York; and Otter, Winooski, 
 Lamoille, and Missisquoi, from Vermont. The outlet 
 of the lake is the Sorel or Richelieu River, sometimes 
 called the St. John s, which empties into the St. 
 Lawrence, and with the Chambly Canal, affords a 
 passage for vessels to the ocean. On the south it com 
 municates, by means of the Champlain Canal, with the 
 Hudson River at Troy. The waters of the lake abound 
 with fish, and, filling a valley inclosed by high moun 
 tains, the lake is celebrated for its magnificent scenery, 
 which embraces the Green Mountains of Vermont on 
 the E. and the Adirondack Mountains of New York on 
 the W. 
 
 Fort Ticonderoga is a station on the lake, at the foot 
 of Mount Defiance. Ticonderoga village is 2 miles from 
 the steamboat-landing, and about 1 mile to the N., on 
 a high hill, are the ruins oT the famous old Fort Ticon 
 deroga, with fine views from the crumbling ramparts, 
 though the views from the top of Mount Defiance are 
 still finer. Mount Independence lies in Vermont, and 
 Mount Hope, an elevation about a mile W. of Ticon 
 deroga, was occupied by Burgoyne previous to the re 
 capture of the fort in 1777. Leaving the landing at 
 
336 
 
 Fort Ticonderoga the steamer runs to Shoreham, on 
 the Vermont shore, and thence crosses the lake to the 
 village of Crown Point, with fine mountain-views all 
 the way. Six miles below, is the rugged promontory 
 of Crown Point, which was the site of Fort St. Frederic, 
 erected by the French in 1731, and of a much stronger 
 work subsequently erected by the English, the massive 
 ruins of which are still plainly visible. Fine views are 
 obtained from the bastions of the old fort. Opposite 
 Crown Point, on the Vermont shore, is Chimney Point. 
 Between them the lake is very narrow, but opens out 
 above into the broad BuJwagga Bay, on the W. shore 
 of which is the pretty village of Port Henry, with ex 
 tensive iron-works and ore-beds. Just beyond Port 
 Henry the scenery is exceedingly fine. To the E. the 
 Green Mountains with their lofty peaks, Mount Mans 
 field and Camel s Hump, rise against the distant horizon j 
 and on the W. the Adirondack Hills mingle their blue 
 tops with the clouds. 
 
 Here also as on the Lake George, the scenery is 
 wild romantic and the eye gets dazzled at the many 
 charmingly attractive spots. 
 
 Returned to Glens Falls, thence to Fort Edward, I 
 reached Saratoga Springs, in the State of New York. 
 This is one of the most famous places of summer resort 
 in America and is frequented by Americans from all 
 parts of the country, and by foreign travelers from all 
 parts of Europe 
 
 The Mineral Springs, which have given the place 
 its celebrity, and the majestic trees, shading several of 
 
337 -jp 
 
 its streets, are almost the only natural attractions. As 
 a mere spectacle, the brilliancy of this place during 
 the summer-months, is nowhere excelled in the United 
 States. 
 
 There are in all 28 springs at Saratoga, the most 
 popular of which is the Congress Spring. The Geyser 
 Spring, on Ballston road, 1J mile from Saratoga, whose 
 waters are so highly charged with carbonic-acid gas 
 that it foams and exhilarates like Champagne, is very 
 frequented. 
 
 Among buildings of interest at Saratoga, are the 
 magnificent hotels, the High-School Building, the 
 Temple Grove Seminary for Young Ladies, Yates 
 Institute for Young Men, and the Central Fire De 
 partment Building. There are numerous fine private 
 residences and suburban drives in and near Sara 
 toga. 
 
 The Congress Park and the Boulevard are beauti 
 ful places. The population of Saratoga is 11,000, but 
 during the season there are often 30,000 people in the 
 place. The name Saratoga, Indian, Saraghoga signi 
 fies "the place of herrings," which formerly passed up 
 the Hudson into Saratoga Lake. 
 
 In the vicinity of the Springs is Saratoga Lake, a 
 beautiful lake, 8 miles long and 2J wide, a favorite re 
 sort. 
 
 Another pleasant resort is Mount McGregor, 11 
 miles from Saratoga, lying 1,000 ft. higher than the 
 Springs, and 1,200 ft. above the sea, now famous as the 
 death-place of General Grant. 
 
 ^ 22 
 
338 
 
 The cottage where he died has been ceded to the 
 State of New York. 
 
 By way of Whitehall, an excursion was made to 
 Vermont, via Eensselaer and Saratoga R. R., and in 9 
 miles the train runs to Fairhaven, where there are 
 extensive slate-quarries, and one mile beyond is the 
 beautiful village of Hydeville, at the foot of Lake 
 Bomoseen. Four miles farther is Castleton, a pretty 
 village, situated on a plain and surrounded by pleasing 
 scenery. In the township are extensive slate-quarries, 
 from which is made an imitation of marble of wonder 
 ful perfection. A State Normal School is located in 
 the village. 
 
 About seven miles from Castleton is West Rutland, 
 noted for its vast marble-works, and in 4 miles the 
 prosperous town of Rutland is reached. 
 
 The town is picturesquely situated, and has 12,149 
 inhabitants. It contains some fine public and com 
 mercial buildings, the State Workhouse, and the ex 
 tensive Howe Scale Works. In the vicinity are 
 numerous quarries and marble-works. Seven miles E., 
 is Killington Peak, 3,924 ft. high, and the view from 
 its summit is very fine. 
 
 Brandon, a manufacturing village of 3,500 in 
 habitants, with marble-quarries, large deposits of ex 
 cellent bog iron-ore, and several factories where 
 mineral paint is made from kaolin-mines in the vicinity, 
 is L7 miles from Rutland. The beautiful mountain- 
 lake, Lake Dunmore, nestles at the foot of the loftiest 
 range of the Green mountains. 
 
339 
 
 Middlebury, situated on Otter Creek, at some fine 
 falls in that stream, has a population of about 3,000. 
 and is distinguished as the seat of Middlebury College, 
 founded in 1800. There is a library in that handsome- 
 built village, containing 14,000 volumes and a small 
 natural history collection. Fourteen miles beyond 
 Middlebury is Vergennes, the oldest city in Vermont, 
 and one of the smallest in the Union, with a population 
 of little more than 1,500. It is situated on Otter 
 Creek, 8 miles from Lake Champlain, and near the 
 Falls, which have a descent of 37 feet. Commodore 
 McDonough s fleet, which won the naval battle of 
 Lake Champlain, September 11, 1814, was fitted out 
 at Vergennes. 
 
 The last place visited in the State of Vermont was 
 Burlington, the largest city in the State, finely situated 
 upon the eastern shore of Lake Champlain, on a ground 
 gradually rising from the water to a height of 367 ft. 
 It was first permanently settled in 1783. In 1885 the 
 population amounted to 13,500, and it has some of the 
 largest mills in the country for planing and dressing 
 lumber, and extensive factories of articles of wood, 
 such as doors, packing-boxes, spools, etc., and of 
 cotton and marble. The city is beautifully built, and 
 several of the churches are superb architectures, as 
 are also most of its public buildings. The Fletcher 
 Library contains 18,000 volumes. The University of 
 Vermont, incorporated in 1791, organized in 1800, is 
 open to both sexes 5 its corner-stone was laid by 
 Lafayette in 1825. The State Agricultural College was 
 
340 
 
 united with it in 1825. It lias a library of 27,000 
 volumes, and a museum containing upward of 50,000 
 specimens in natural history. The Billlings Library 
 given to the College at a cost of $100,000, contains the 
 collection belonging to the late Geo. P. Marsh, and is 
 the best collection of books in the nothcrn languages in 
 the world. The Mary Fletcher Hospital, from the top of 
 which the finest lake-view in America is obtained, is an 
 admirably beautiful building. Lake View Cemetery, 
 on the shore of the lake, is one of the finest in the 
 State, and in Green Mount Cemetery lie the remains of 
 Ethan Allen, under a granite shaft 42 ft. high, sur 
 mounted by a marble statue of the old hero. 
 
 The Depot of the Vermont Central It. R. is an 
 extensive building, and the Court House, Custom 
 House and Post-Office, and the City Hall and Opera 
 House are very handsome. Other buildings of interest 
 are the Lake View Eetreat (a private insane asylum), 
 and the Providence Orphan Asylum (Roman Catho 
 lic). 
 
 The " Green Mountain State," State of Vermont, 
 was first settled by Massachusetts emigrants near 
 Battleboro, 1724; admitted, 1791. Vermont was the 
 first State to join the original 13 States. 
 
 Area, 9,565 square miles; length, 150 miles; 
 breadth, 35 to 50 miles. Lake Champlain frontage, 
 over 100 miles ; Burlington the chief harbor. 
 
 Temperature at Burlington: winter, 18 to 33 ; 
 summer, 66 to 71. Rainfall, 34 inches. 
 
 Death rate, only 1.07 per cent, per annum. 
 
341 
 
 Montpellier, capital, is beautifully situated on the 
 Winooski river, in a narrow valley surrounded by 
 hills. Its population is 4,000, and in the portico of its 
 beautiful Capitol is a marble statue of Ethan Allen. 
 In the building is the State Library, containing 15,000 
 volumes, and the historical and geological cabinets, and 
 the flags carried by the Vermont volunteers during the 
 civil war. 
 
 Population of Bennington, 6,333, and of St. Albans, 
 7,193. 
 
 Number of farms, 35,522. Average value per acre, 
 cleared land, $17.73; woodland, $15.28. Mineral 
 wealth of great value, manganese, copper pyrites, iron 
 ore, and gold deposits have been found. Black, white, 
 red, and variegated marbles are abundant; annual 
 value of marble, over $3,000,000, and of slate, about 
 $1,000,000. 
 
 Number of different industries, 2,874, giving em 
 ployment to 17,540 persons. Number of butter and 
 cheese establishments, 85; flour and grist, 227; 
 furniture, 56 ; leather tanning, 53 ; lumber sawing, 
 688 ; marble and stone work, 69 ; wares of tin, sheet- 
 iron and copper, 95. 
 
 Population: 332,286, incl. 1,057 Colored and 11 
 Indians. 
 
 Number of Colleges, 2; school population, 99,463; 
 school age, 5-20. 
 
 Devoting my time to a repeated exploration of the 
 State of New York, the city of Schenectady, 17 miles 
 from the capital of New York State, was begun with. 
 
342 
 
 Schenectady is a city of 13,675 inhabitants, situ 
 ated on the right bank of the Mohawk River, on a 
 spot which once formed the council-grounds of the Mo 
 hawks. It is one of the oldest towns in the State, a 
 trading-post having been established here by the 
 Dutch in 1620, and is distinguished as the seat of 
 Union College, founded in 1 795 and now a famous in 
 stitution. 
 
 Leaving Schenectady, the train crosses the Mohawk 
 River and the Erie Canal on a bridge nearly 1,000 ft. 
 long, and traverses a rich farming country to Amster 
 dam, and in 1 1 miles to Fonda. 
 
 Sharon Springs is reached from the latter place by 
 stage. Situated in a narrow valley surrounded by 
 high hills, the village of Sharon Springs in Schoharie 
 County, New York, is chiefly noted for its mineral 
 springs, of which there are 4 ; chalybeate, magnesia, 
 white sulphur, and blue sulphur. The Magnesia and 
 White Sulphur Springs resemble the White Sulphur 
 Springs of Virginia. Though the waters are drunk to 
 a considerable extent, the specialty of the place is its 
 baths. Besides the water-baths, mud-baths are ad 
 ministered. The drives arid rambles are very pleasant 
 and from the summit of the hill over the village, a 
 beautiful view is obtained, including the Mohawk 
 Valley, the Adirondacks, and the Green Mountains of 
 Vermont. 
 
 Little Falls, which is remarkable for a bold pas 
 sage of the river and canal through a wild and most 
 picturesque defile 5 and the already described beautiful 
 
city of Utica, the great railroad and canal center and 
 where there is located the State Insane Asylum; and Tren 
 ton Falls, on the W. Canada Creek, a tributary of the 
 Mohawk, whose descent is 312 ft. in a distance of 2 
 miles by a series of beautiful cataracts, have to be 
 passed before Oneida Lake is reached. Chittenango 
 and Syracuse are on the line on which, in 17 miles, 
 the charming Lake Skaneateles is reached. The lake 
 is 16 miles long, from 1 to 1J miles wide; 860 ft. 
 above the sea, and is surrounded by hills rising 1,200 
 ft. above the surface. Eight miles farther on is the hand 
 some city of Auburn, with 21,924 inhabitants, situated 
 near Owasco Lake, which finds its outlet through the 
 town. 
 
 Auburn State Prison covers 18 acres of ground. 
 The city was long the home of the late Wm. H. Se- 
 ward, and his grave is in the pleasant cemetery on 
 Fort Hill. The County Court House, the Theological 
 Seminary, and the Churches of St. Peter (Epicopal), 
 St. Mary s (Rom. Cath.), and the First Presbyterian 
 are exceedingly fine edifices. Owasco Lake, 3 miles 
 from Auburn, is a summer resort, and Cayuga Lake, 8 
 miles from the former lake, is 38 miles long, and 
 from 1 to 3J wide. At the S. end lies Ithaka, one of 
 the loveliest cities in the State, noted as the seat of 
 Cornell University, and surrounded by the most 
 charming and romantic scenery. Founded in 1865, 
 this institution has already become one of the leading 
 educational establishments of the country. There are 
 a series of cascades and waterfalls in its vicinity, vary- 
 
344 
 
 ing from 30 to 160 ft. in height. The beautiful 
 Ithaka Fall, 150 ft. broad and 160 ft. high, is about a 
 mile distant in Ithaka Gorge, said to contain more 
 waterfalls within the space of a mile than any other 
 place in America. 
 
 The celebrated Taghkanic Falls are 10 miles from 
 Ithaka. The Taghkanic Creek flows through a com 
 paratively level country until it encounters a rocky 
 ledge lying directly across its course, and then the 
 waters fall perpendicularly through a chasm, which the 
 stream has succeeded in excavating 215 ft, into the 
 rocky basin, forming a cataract more than 50 ft. higher 
 than the Niagara. Five miles beyond Cayuga is the 
 manufacturing village of Seneca Falls, and 10 miles 
 farther is the Academic City of Geneva, beautifully 
 situated at the foot of Seneca Lake, noted for its educa 
 tional institutions, of which Hobart College (Episco 
 pal), is the most important. Seneca Lake, one of the 
 largest and most enchanting in the State, is 35 miles 
 long and 1 to 4 miles wide, is very deep and never 
 freezes over. 
 
 Fatigued from my last, rather long lasting journeys, 
 I proceeded to New York city, only to start anew after 
 a short rest and thus terminate my explorations in the 
 State of New York, and in the United States in gene 
 ral. 
 
 West Point is one of the most attractive places on 
 the Hudson River. It is the seat of the National 
 Military Academy. The most noteworthy of the 
 buildings are the Barracks of the Cadets, the Academic 
 
345 
 
 Building, the library , containing 26,000 volumes, and 
 in which is the Observatory and the Mess Hall. 
 
 The Museum of Ordnance and Trophies, and the 
 Chapel are interesting. The Parade-Ground is very 
 spacious, beautifully laid out and contains several fine 
 monuments. 
 
 Fort Putnam, on Mount Independence, 600 ft. 
 above the river, is not far from here, and from the 
 crumbling walls of the Fort excellent views are ob 
 tained. 
 
 New York City, the commercial metropolis of the 
 United States, and largest city of the Western Hemis 
 phere, is situated on New York Bay, in latitude 41 
 N. and longitude 71 W. from Greenwich, at the junc 
 tion of the Hudson or North River, and of the East 
 River. It occupies the entire surface of Manhattan 
 Island; Randall s, Ward s, and Black well s Islands in 
 the East River; Bedloe s, Ellis s, and Governor s Is 
 lands in the Bay, used by the U. S. Government; and 
 a portion of the mainland, annexed from Westchester 
 County, north of Manhattan Island and separated from 
 it by Harlem River and Spuyten Duyvel Creek. The 
 harbor of New York is one of the finest and most pictu 
 resque in the world. The outer bar is at Sandy Hook, 
 and is crossed by 2 ship-channels. The villa-crowned 
 shores of Staten and Long Islands, the massive battle 
 ments of Fort Wadsworth and Fort Tompkins, and on 
 the Long Island shore, Fort Hamilton and old Fort 
 Lafayette, famous as a political prison; Bedloes Island 
 with the colossal statue of Liberty which France has 
 
346 
 
 presented to the City of New York, and Governor s 
 Island with Castle William and old Fort Columbus, lie 
 majestically on both sides of the bay and harbor, a 
 panorama of phenomenal beauty and grandeur. 
 
 The site of New York is said to have been dis 
 covered by Verazzani, a Florentine mariner, in 1524; 
 but authentic history begins with the visit of Henry 
 Hudson, an Englishman in the service of the Dutch 
 East India Company, who arrived there September 3, 
 1609, Hudson afterward ascended the river as far as 
 the site of Albany, and claimed the land by right of dis 
 covery as an appanage of Holland. In 1614 a Dutch 
 colony came over and began a settlement. At the close 
 of the year the future metropolis consisted of a small 
 fort and four houses and was known as New Amsterdam. 
 As late as 1648 it contained but 1,000 inhabitants. In 
 1684 it was surrendered to the British, and passing 
 into the hands of the Duke of York, was thenceforward 
 called New York. In 1667 the city contained 384 
 houses. In 1670 the population had increased to about 
 6,000. In 1696 Trinity Church was founded. In 1711 
 a slave-market was established in Wall Street ; and in 
 1725 the New York Gazette was started. The Ame 
 rican army under Washington occupied the city in 
 1776 ; but after the battles of Long Island and Harlem 
 Heights, it was captured by the British forces, and 
 remained their headquarters for 7 years. The British 
 troops evacuated the city November 25, 1 783. Within 
 ten years after the War of Independence, New York 
 has doubled its population. In 1807 the first steamboat 
 
347 
 
 was put on the Hudson ; the completion of the Erie 
 Canal followed in 1825, and since that time the growth 
 of the city has been rapid. Its population in 1800 was 
 60,489, it was 812,869 in 1860 and in 1880, 1,206,590. 
 Commerce and industry have kept pace with the pop 
 ulation. More than half the foreign commerce of the 
 United States is carried on through the customs district 
 of which this is the port, and about two-thirds of the 
 duties are here collected. In 1883 the exports from 
 this port were of the value of $361,425,361, and the 
 imports $496,005,276. The manufactures of New York, 
 though secondary in importance to its commercial and 
 mercantile interests, are varied and extensive. In the 
 value of products, according to the census of 1880, it 
 was the first city in the Union, though surpassed by 
 Philadelphia in the value of materials used, amount of 
 capital invested, and number of establishments. The 
 whole number of manufacturing establishments in 1880 
 was 11,162, employing 200,000 hands, and producing 
 goods valued at $448,209,248. 
 
 The principal churches in the city are Trinity 
 Church with the Astor Memorial Reredos in the 
 chancel, one of the richest and costliest in the world 
 (the Trinity Parish is the oldest in the city); St. PauFs 
 Church ; Grace Church ; St. Paul s Methodist ; St. 
 George s Episcopal 5 the Jewish Temple Emanuel ; and 
 the Roman Cathedral of St. Patrick. 
 
 Of the numerous public buildings the following 
 deserve special mention : the U. S. Sub-Treasury, the 
 site of old Federal Hall where Washington delivered 
 
348 
 
 his first address as President, (the bronze statue of 
 Washington on the entrance was erected here in No 
 vember 1883) ; the U. S. Custom House, the new Post- 
 Office, the new Court House, the City Hall, etc. 
 
 Among the numerous educational institutions of 
 New York the most prominent are the University of 
 the City of New York, Bellevue Medical College, Col 
 lege of Physicians and Surgeons, Columbia College, 
 the oldest in the State, having been chartered in 1754 ; 
 the Normal College, the College of Pharmacy, Hom 
 oeopathic College, Cooper Institute, founded and 
 endowed by the late Peter Cooper, a wealthy and phi 
 lanthropic merchant, containing a free library, free 
 schools of art and telegraphy for women, a free night- 
 school of art for men, a free night-school of science for 
 both sexes, and free lectures 5 the Bible House, head 
 quarters of the American Bible Society, next to the 
 British the largest in the world j the Mining Academy 
 the Astor Library, containing 250,000 volumes ; the 
 City Library ; Mercantile Library ; New York Free 
 Circulating Library j the Library of the Historical 
 Society ; the Geographical Society s valuable series of 
 maps, specimens, etc.; the Harlem Library ; and sev 
 eral Colleges of Dentistry. 
 
 The National Academy of Design ; the Metropol 
 itan Museum of Art, containing the famous Cesnola 
 Collection of Cypriote Antiquities 5 the Abbott Collec 
 tion of Egyptian Antiquities and the Lenox Collection 
 of Nineveh Sculptures both in the Historical Society s 
 Building 5 the American Art Gallery and numerous 
 
349 
 
 private Galleries and Collections rank among the first 
 in the country. 
 
 The Battery, a pretty little park at the southern 
 extremity of the city, looking out upon the Bay, was 
 the site of a fort in the early years of the city, being 
 then the fashionable quarter. At the S. W. end is 
 Castle Garden, a depot for immigrants, and at the 
 S. end stands the handsome granite U. S. Barge-Office. 
 Just north of the Battery, at the foot of Broadway, is 
 Bowling Green, the cradle of New York, it was the 
 court end of the town in the times of the Dutch. 
 
 The Business Buildings of New York have no 
 where in the world their equal; some of them are 
 palatial structures. I mention only a few: The Pro 
 duce Exchange, Standard Oil, Stock Exchange, the 
 Equitable Life Insurance Company s, Western Union 
 Telegraph Company s, the Boreel Building, Wells, 
 Stewart Buildings, Union Bank Building, Manhattan 
 Company s, the United Bank Building, the Drexel and 
 Mills Buildings and thousands of others are to be found 
 in the business quarters of the city. 
 
 The Buildings of the leading Newspapers are also 
 of colossal dimensions and the following are the most 
 prominent : 
 
 Tribune, World, Herald, Staats-Zeitung, Sun, Times, 
 Puck, and Post. 
 
 The Broadway is one of the finest, if not the finest 
 thoroughfare in the world, and the elegant Avenues in 
 New York have no rivals, and are intersected by lovely 
 parks. Of monuments and statues, which are nun?er- 
 
350 
 
 ous in New York, those at the Union Square, of 
 Washington s bronze equestrian statue, the bronze 
 statue of Lafayette, and the bronze statue of Lincoln 
 are of extraordinary beauty. On Madison Square, 
 another pretty little park, is the bronze statue of 
 Admiral Farragut, the monument to General Worth, and 
 the bronze statue of Seward. 
 
 The Masonic Temple is a spacious and pretty 
 building, and there is an abundance of Opera-Houses, 
 Theatres and other places of amusement in the city. 
 The principal Clubs in New York are the Century, 
 Knickerbocker, Manhattan, Union, Union League, the 
 Lotos, Army and Navy, St. Nicholas, the University 
 Club, and the Athletic. 
 
 Of the many musical and singing societies of New 
 York City, the " Liederkranz " is the most celebrated 
 in the country, its President (since many years) is the 
 well-known Mr. Steinway, the manufacturer of the 
 world -famed Stein way-pianos. 
 
 There are comparatively more charitable institutions 
 in New York than in any other place in the world; 
 suffice to mention a few of the most important, viz.: 
 the Deaf and Dumb Institution, the buildings which 
 are the largest and finest of the kind in the world j the 
 Bloomirigdale Asylum for the Insane ; several Orphan 
 Asylums, among which the Hebrew Orphan Asylum is 
 the finest in the Union; the Bellevue Hospital, the larg 
 est in the city; the Foundling Asylum; and the Five 
 Points House of Industry and Mission; the Howard 
 Mission ; and on Blackwell s Island, 120 acres in ex- 
 
351 
 
 tent: the Alms-house, Female Lunatic Asylum, Blind 
 Asylum, Charity, Small-pox and Typhus-Fever Hospi 
 tals; also the Hospital for Incurables, and Convales 
 cent Hospital; on Ward s Island: the Lunatic Asylum 
 for Males, the Emigrant Hospital, and the Inebriate 
 Asylum; and on Randall s Island: the Idiot Asylum, 
 the House of Refuge, the Infant Hospital, Nurseries 
 and other charities provided by the city for destitute 
 children. Besides these, there are numerous Homes 
 and other Institutions for Indigents of both sexes in the 
 city. 
 
 The pride of New York is the Central Park. It is 
 one of the finest parks in the world, embracing 843 
 acres and in it are the two large Croton Reservoirs. The 
 Mall in the Park is the principal promenade; it is a 
 magnificent esplanade and at various points are fine 
 life-size bronze statues of Shakespeare, Scott, Morse, 
 Goethe, Halleck, Daniel Webster, and among the 
 bronze busts, the bust of Humboldt. The Zoological 
 Gardens, or Menagerie, in the Park contains interesting 
 collections of animals, birds, and reptiles, etc., and 
 opposite the Metropolitan Museum of Art is the Egyp 
 tian Obelisk (the Needle of Cleopatra), one of the most 
 ancient of the world s monuments. Originally hewn 
 and inscribed by Thothmes III., one of the sides is 
 also inscribed with the victory of Rameses or Ramses 
 II. (a contemporary of Moses), who lived three centuries 
 afterward. It was presented to the City of New York 
 by the late Khedive, and brought to this country at the 
 expense of the late W. H. Vanderbilt. Adjoining the 
 
352 
 
 Park is the American Museum of Natural History, con 
 taining Indian antiquities, minerals, shells, and stuffed 
 and mounted specimens of birds, fishes, quadrupeds, 
 insects, etc. 
 
 Riverside Park, within the city limits, is the bury- 
 ing-place of General Grant. 
 
 The great East River or Brooklyn Bridge, is the 
 largest suspension-bridge in the world and is 5,989 ft. 
 long. Its width is 85 ft., which includes a promenade 
 for foot-passengers, 2 railroad-tracks on which run 
 steam passenger-cars, and two roadways for vehicles. 
 This stupendous triumph of engineering was planned by 
 Colonel John A. Roebling and completed under the 
 charge of his son, Washington Roebling. It was 
 thirteen years constructing, and cost about $15,000,- 
 000. 
 
 The elevated Rail Roads in New York, four distinct 
 lines, running almost parallel and traversing the city, 
 are among the wonders of the city. 
 
 The new Aqueduct in course of erection is one of 
 the most gigantic structures of its kind. In High 
 Bridge, the Croton Aqueduct is carried across Harlem 
 River in a length of 1,450 ft. This noble structure is 
 well worth seeing. 
 
 Of the City Prisons, the Tombs, a massive, granite, 
 sombre looking building in the Egyptian style, and of 
 a shape resembling ancient Egyptian tombs, is un 
 doubtedly a unique. 
 
 The Penitentiary and Workhouse are on BlackwelPs 
 Island. 
 
- 353 ,, 
 
 , 
 
 New York is one of the greatest Rail Road Cen 
 ters in the world and the Grand Central Depot one of 
 the finest and largest in the United States. 
 
 Staten Island, the largest island in the harbor, has 
 an area of 58 J square miles 5 it is separated from New 
 Jersey by Staten Island Sound and the Kill Van Kull, 
 and from Long Island by the Narrows. From the 
 heights there are broad views over harbor and ocean. 
 New Brighton is the largest village on the island. 
 
 The most popular of all the resorts near New 
 York is Coney Island, just outside the entrance of 
 New York Bay, and consists of a very narrow island, 
 4J miles long, with a gently sloping beach, affording 
 unsurpassed facilities for sea-bathing. It is a part of 
 the town of Gravesend and is separated from the 
 mainland by Gravesend Bay and Coney Island Creeks 
 on the north, and has the broad Atlantic for its south 
 ern boundary. The island is divided into 4 parts 
 known as Coney Island Point, or Norton s at the 
 west end, West Brighton Beach, and Manhattan Beach 
 at the east end. From the Observatory in Coney Is 
 land an extensive view is obtained. The drives are 
 superb, especially on the Ocean Parkway. 
 
 Rockaway Beach and Long Beach are likewise 
 excellent sea-bathing resorts, and the colossal tubular 
 Iron Pier in Rockaway Beach is well worth seeing. 
 
 The other great summer resort in the vicinity oi 
 New York is Long Branch, on the Jersey shore of the 
 Atlantic, where an extensive beach affords excellent 
 facilities for bathing. 
 
 23 
 
354 
 
 The Beach Drive on which the superb villas of the 
 Wealthy are situated is an elegant road. The place is 
 very attractive and is the Rendez-vous of the better 
 situated class. 
 
 Opposite New York, just across the river, at the 
 W. end of Long Island, lies the third largest city in the 
 United States, Brooklyn. On the heights back of the 
 city the battle of Long Island was fought, on August 
 26, 1776, and the Americans defeated with a loss of 
 2,000 out of 5,000 men. 
 
 In 1800, the population of Brooklyn was 3,298, 
 and in 1880, 566,689. 
 
 Brooklyn was settled in 1 625, near Wallabout Bay, 
 by a band of Walloons. 
 
 The city is exceedingly pretty, most of the streets 
 aborned with shade-trees. 
 
 Its public buildings and private residences are of 
 great beauty and the commerce large. The City Hall, 
 County Court House, Municipal Building, and Post 
 Office are spacious and elegant structures. The Long 
 Island Historical Society contains a valuable library 
 and many curious relics. The Academy of Design, 
 and the Academy of Music are highly ornated build 
 ings. The Long Island College Hospital, the Mer 
 cantile Library, with 60,000 volumes ; and several of 
 the theatres are noteworthy. Of the many churches, 
 the following deserve special mention : the beautiful 
 Church of the Holy Trinity (Episcopal), Plymouth 
 Church (formerly the church of the late Henry Ward 
 Beecher) ; the Tabernacle (of the famous orator Rev. 
 
355 
 
 Talmadge), the largest Protestant church in America 5 
 the Congregational Church of the Pilgrims (R. S. 
 Storrs, Pastor); and the Presbyterian Church (Dr.Cuyler). 
 
 The County Jail and the Penitentiary are castella 
 ted, immense stone piles. 
 
 The Atlantic Dock has a basin which covers an area 
 of 42 J acres and is surrounded by piers of solid gran 
 ite, on which are spacious ware-houses. Prospect 
 Park is one of the most beautiful in America. It con 
 tains 550 acres, lies on an elevated ridge, and com 
 mands magnificent views of the two cities, of the inner 
 and outer harbor, Long Island, the Jersey shore, and 
 the Atlantic. In the center is a fine fountain and a 
 bronze statue of President Lincoln. It is beautifully 
 shaded, has splendid drives, and was the site of exten 
 sive fortifications during the Revolutionary War. 
 
 The U. S. Navy Yard is the chief naval station 
 of the Republic and contains 45 acres. 
 
 The trophies and relics preserved here are of great 
 interest. 
 
 Greenwood Cemetery is the most beautiful in the 
 world. It contains upward of 500 acres tastefully laid 
 out. The grounds are traversed by 19 miles of car 
 riage-roads and 17 miles of footpaths and there are 
 many beautiful monuments. 
 
 The "Empire or Excelsior State," the State of 
 New York is one of the 13 original States; named in 
 honor of the Duke of York to whom the patent was 
 granted; first settled by the Dutch, on Manhattan 
 Island, 1614. 
 
356 
 
 Area, 49,170 square miles; extreme length, east 
 and west, 412 miles; extreme breadth, 311 miles; 
 two-thirds of boundaries formed by navigable rivers; 
 total water frontage, 880 miles. 
 
 Temperature at Albany: winter, 22 to 36; sum 
 mer, 67 to 73. Rainfall at Buffalo, 34 inches, and 
 at Perm Yan, 28 inches. 
 
 First railroad, from Albany to Schenectady, 1831; 
 present railroad mileage, 7,349 ; artificial water-ways, 
 907 miles. 
 
 Number of farms, 241,058; average value per acre, 
 cleared land, $58.48; woodland, $40.88. Ranks first 
 in value of manufactures, soap, printing and publish 
 ing, hops, hay, potatoes, buckwheat and milk cows; 
 second in salt, silk goods, malt and distiUed liquors, 
 miles railway and barley. 
 
 Population, 5,082,871, incl. 65,104 Colored, 909 
 Chinese and 819 Indians. 
 
 Number of colleges, 28 ; school population 1,681,- 
 101 ; school age, 5-21. 
 
 The United States, a Republic occupying the cen 
 tral portion of North America, together with Alaska, 
 in the extreme northwest, contain 38 States and 10 
 Territories. 
 
 Area land surface, 3,547,000 square miles; great 
 est length, east and west, about 2,800 miles; average 
 breadth, about 1,200 miles; British American bound 
 ary; 3,540 miles; Mexican, 1,550; coast line, exclu- 
 
357 
 
 sivc of land indentations, 5,715 miles; lake shore line, 
 3,450. 
 
 New York ranks first in population; Pennsylvania, 
 second; Ohio, third; Illinois, fourth. 
 
 New York City, metropolis of the Republic ; Phila 
 delphia ranks second ; Brooklyn, third ; Chicago, 
 fourth. Washington, capital. 
 
 Railway mileage: 1830, 23, having increased to 
 126,718, January 1886. Increase, 1885, 3,214. 
 
 According to Statistics for year ending June 30, 
 1884, the total value of dutiable merchandise imported, 
 was $457,813,509, and of imported merchandise free 
 from duty, $209,884,184. The exports of merchandise 
 for the same year amounted to $740,513,609. 
 
 The total value of products of industry, according 
 to census, 1883-4, $10,000,000,000; average annual 
 coal production, 77,908,874 tons ; average annual ex 
 ports, domestic merchandise, $794,060,103; average 
 annual value imports, domestic merchandise, $635,- 
 227,511 ; average annual value exports of cotton, 
 $12,322,428; and average annual value imports, cotton 
 manufactures, $32,285,660. 
 
 Leaving this beautiful country in which I have 
 stayed longer than in any other during my eight years 
 travels, and thanking all my friends in the City of 
 New York for the many favors bestowed upon me 
 during my repeated long sojourns, I beg leave to bid 
 Good-bye ! Au revoir ! 
 
YB 36745