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A SELECTION 
 
 THE LETTERS 
 
 OF THE L-ATE 
 
 JOHN ASHTON NICHOLLS, F.R.A.S. 
 
 . 
 
 
In 
 
 A SELECTION 
 
 FROM 
 
 THE LETTEES 
 
 OF THE LATE 
 
 JOHN ASHTON NICHOLLS, F.K.A.S,, Ac 
 
 EDITED BY HIS MOTHER, 
 
 jprinkb for |jri{mie Cirtulatioit 
 1862. 
 
, 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Private Letters i 
 
 Letters from the Continent 19 
 
 Letters from America . . 1 1 1 
 
IN presenting this volume of Letters, it will be understood 
 that, with two exceptions, they were written without the 
 least view to publication, and mostly during the hurry of 
 travel. What, if he had been spared, my dear Son might 
 have done with the facts and information which they 
 contain, I cannot say ; but in their present form they 
 certainly would not have appeared in print. They do so 
 now in compliance with the wish of many friends, who were 
 especially desirous to read the American portion of them. 
 
 The work of copying them out for the press has furnished 
 sad, but at the same time sweet occupation for many soli 
 tary hours, and helped -to bring into felt and living 
 communion with the spirit that has passed into another 
 world, the one that has been left for a little while longer 
 in this. 
 
 Let me take this opportunity of acknowledging, with 
 sincere gratitude, the numerous evidences which my hus 
 band and myself received, in our deep and abiding affliction, 
 of the kind sympathy of friends whose letters, though they 
 might be at the time unanswered, were highly prized, and 
 will be preserved among our most cherished possessions. 
 
 SARAH NICHOLLS. 
 
 Eagley House, Ardwick, 
 Manchester, 1862. 
 
PEIVATE LETTERS. 
 
 MANCHESTEE, June %Sth, 1844. 
 
 MY DEAK Miss D , 
 
 I EECEIVED your kind letter in due course, 
 for which I was much obliged. You would have 
 been answered sooner, but my occupations have 
 been very considerable, since my connection with 
 the Ancoats Lyceum, as one of its directors, com 
 pels me to give much time to it, particularly at the 
 present juncture, as we are thinking of removing to 
 a larger building until we can raise one of our own. 
 The only thing that deters us from going at once 
 is the expense of removal, which will be consider 
 able, and will oblige us to canvass our kind friends 
 for assistance. I do not doubt of success, especially 
 as the object we have in view is good, and condu 
 cive to the best interests of a large and important 
 class of persons, forming, as they do, the bulk of 
 the population of our great factory district. 
 
Our Lyceum affords the advantages of a Me 
 chanics Institute at a cheaper rate, and is thus 
 within the reach of numbers ; for it is evident that 
 there are many desirous of education, and its 
 attendant mental and moral advantages, who, 
 though unable to subscribe a pound a year, can yet 
 well afford eight shillings, which is the amount of 
 the subscription to our Institution. No fact shows 
 the importance of our Lyceum more than this, 
 that of all the 1,100 members of the Manchester 
 Mechanics Institution, there are only about 16 
 connected with cotton and cotton factories, the 
 majority being from warehouses and shops. 
 
 Where we are at present we have no lecture- 
 room ; in fact, no accommodation whatever. The 
 premises we have in view were once a large corn 
 warehouse consequently strongly built and com 
 modious, where we shall have room to grow. I 
 intend calling on some friends to try and raise a 
 little of the needful * * * 
 
 So the small dog is a proper piece of mischief; 
 I am much indebted to you for taking care of it so 
 long : I shall claim it shortly. Mamma and I are 
 going to Cork next month, and on our return we 
 will call for it. 
 
 Your opinions coincide with mine about our 
 Chapels Bill ; and although we cannot help prais 
 ing Sir R. Peel for bringing it on, and giving it his 
 support, still we must remember that it was only a 
 matter of duty, of strict justice, and as such he 
 
ought, of course, to support it. The fact really is, 
 that amongst the higher classes there is a great deal 
 of sympathy for Unitarians and Unitarianism. Very 
 many must see that the time will come, when sen 
 timents very much akin to ours must he general. 
 * * * But whenever higher thoughts and better 
 motives seek to exert their sway, expediency, that 
 fell destroyer of many a good and well-formed scheme, 
 steps in and ruins the whole, and again submits 
 the neck to the iron yoke. * * * Let our in 
 fluence be felt in every Institution in the country; 
 and let the spirit of our simple worship go forth, like 
 the spirit of our great Master, into the world, and 
 diffuse its gladsome smiles, and no longer be 
 shut up in the cold selfishness of a fancied supe 
 riority, in expectation that all men must come up 
 to us, without our reaching down a helping hand to 
 raise them from the low abiding-place of mental 
 debasement. 
 
 Yours, &c. 
 JOHN ASHTON NICHOLLS. 
 
ANCOATS CRESCENT, September IQth, 1844. 
 
 MY DEAR Miss D , 
 
 I AM glad you approve of the subject of my 
 lectures for the winter. I shall do my best to 
 make them interesting and instructive ; but as to 
 entering into any very minute details, such as point 
 ing out those gradual shadings off, till the darkness of 
 the middle ages became the morning dawn of our 
 own day, would be impossible ; since my auditory 
 would groan over a discussion on Anglo-Norman, and 
 go to sleep over the Monkish records, and the semi- 
 barbarous Latin they contain. No ; my object is 
 to sink all display, and strive rather to infuse a 
 taste for sound knowledge and right principles, 
 into the minds of a class possessing small general 
 information, and little if any refinement : and 
 though I say they have no refinement, still I am 
 not blind to the fact that there is springing up in 
 the minds and homes of the working classes, an 
 indefinable craving after something they don t yet 
 possess, a something for which they cannot find a 
 name ; in fact the idea of beauty, which must in the 
 end triumph, is struggling in their breasts, and 
 seeking to cast off the veil of coarseness and vul 
 garity which has so long covered its fair propor 
 tions, and shrouded them from public view. 
 
 The best proof of this is the now acknowledged 
 
truth, that working-men and women seek in music 
 saloons and picture galleries, a means of gratifying 
 this passion, which the nakedness of their own 
 hearths will not allow. What a pity it is that these 
 places should be conducted in the manner they are ! 
 However we must hope, and in the meantime do all 
 we can to forward whatever in this world is good, 
 and true, and right, casting aside mere selfish con 
 siderations, or as I may say, Miss-G notions 
 
 don t tell them about the poor; remembering 
 that they with us are fellow-travellers, starting from 
 the same point, journeying to the same end, with 
 the same stake at issue, and with these facts before 
 them, that there is but one Judge and one judg 
 ment by which all men must be tried God and 
 conscience. 
 
 Yours, &c. 
 
 JOHN ASHTON NICHOLLS. 
 
 ANCOATS CRESCENT, December 5th, 1844. 
 MY DEAR Miss D , 
 
 You must allow me to apologize for not 
 writing sooner, but I have been so much occupied 
 with one thing and another, that I really have not 
 had time to devote to my private correspondence. 
 
 We are going to have a Soiree in connection with 
 our Lyceum, in January; we had fixed the 23rd 
 of this month, but cannot make our arrangements 
 
for then. All the management of it has devolved 
 upon me ; and letters ! letters ! ! letters ! ! ! have 
 been my work for some time past. The 23rd how 
 ever, after all my scribbling, had to be abandoned, 
 because all we wished to come were engaged, so 
 that I have just got my work to begin again. We 
 had one of our smaller tea parties on Tuesday 
 evening last, at which I presided, which passed off 
 very well indeed. 
 
 You can t think what a hubbub has been created 
 about our asking Lord J. Manners to be our patron; 
 Cobden and the League, in private character, have 
 given it us prettily, and even in the leading article 
 of the Guardian, there is an implied cut at us, 
 " these Institutions should not look to property for 
 protection." This is said in connection with the 
 name of Young England, alias Lord J. Manners, 
 however, I flatter myself I have disarmed Cobden s 
 prejudice in a great measure. I have been thrown 
 a good deal in contact with him lately, and I 
 have been very much struck with him indeed. He 
 is a noble fellow, somewhat hasty in judgment, but 
 a man that speaks what he feels ; he at least is 
 sincere. Would that I could say so of every mem 
 ber of the Lower House, or Upper either! 
 
 I trust we shall get up a Soiree in January, not 
 of course on the scale of the Athenaeum, but one 
 suitable to our means and Institution. 
 
 Yours, &c. 
 JOHN ASHTON NICHOLLS. 
 
LYCEUM, ANCOATS, 
 
 Manchester, December llth, 1847. 
 
 DEAE SIK, 
 
 I HOPE you are improving in health ; I do 
 trust we shall meet one of these days. I shall get 
 down on Monday night to the Lyceum : if I see 
 you there, it will be just five weeks since I had 
 that pleasure before. What would the world say of 
 an Institution whose Treasurer and Secretary have 
 not seen one another for five weeks ? It would 
 either say it was on the canine highway, or else 
 that it was in such trim, as to be able to hold on its 
 course without much supervision. I think the 
 latter solution is correct; but if I see you on 
 Monday, we can talk it all over on the spot: I sup 
 pose we are not bankrupt yet, are we ? I have 
 given up the " Chimney Eemoval Bill," at all events 
 at present. I am sorry you cannot get G. Dawson. 
 By the way, that reminds me, &. 8s. 6d. to pay 
 next week. Oh, dear a me, receiving is one thing, 
 paying another; but if we receive plenty, I don t 
 mind forking it out a bit. The school is doing 
 wonders for us. <5. 10s. a week is a moderate 
 income : certainly our preliminary expenses have 
 been great, but we soon shall be fully repaid. 
 
 I wish H s would send their short- 
 timers, then we should do : they have 60 to 80, 
 so that 40 more, morning and afternoon, we could 
 
10 
 
 do with. Our present staff is enough, except per 
 haps an outlay of 10s. per week. I am always 
 scheming. 
 
 DEAR SIR, 
 
 Faithfully Yours, 
 
 JOHN ASHTON NICHOLLS. 
 F. RICHMOND, Esq. 
 
 MANCHESTER, January %lst, 1848. 
 MY DEAR Miss D , 
 
 * * * I HAVE been proposed as a Mem 
 ber of the Literary and Philosophical Society, a 
 Society so long ornamented by the Presidency of 
 John Dalton; a name which will go down to 
 future ages, radiant with the brightest glory, 
 clothed in the most innocent simplicity a man 
 without guile. To-night they will decide my fate 
 for the ballot takes place this evening. If I am 
 elected, I shall deem it a high honour; if not, I 
 must only strive to make myself worthy at some 
 future period. 
 
 I told you some time ago I was going to give 
 some lectures on Literature, but the Directors of 
 the Lyceum thought the subject too difficult for the 
 people to understand; so instead I am to give 
 four on Astronomy, illustrated by the Phantasma- 
 
11 
 
 goria, of which I will take care to send you a 
 syllabus in due course. 
 
 Am I not an inveterate Leaguer? There is a 
 meeting to-morrow in the Free Trade Hall, and I 
 have distributed 140 tickets myself. 
 
 Yours, &c. 
 JOHN ASHTON NICHOLLS. 
 
 MANCHESTER, August 24^, 1848. 
 
 MY DEAR Miss D , 
 
 * * * I AM going to enter the lectur 
 ing world again this winter. The Directors of the 
 Salford Mechanics Institute wish me to give them 
 my course on Physiology, which I have already 
 repeated twice. The lectures are written, so I 
 shall have but little trouble with them. 
 
 I am commencing writing a new course for the 
 Ancoats Lyceum, on the Literature of England 
 from the earliest period to the time of Shakspeare, 
 which will take me some time to complete. I give 
 them in November and December, and sometime I 
 shall bring the course down to the present period. 
 
 You must excuse this being a short note, on the 
 score of press of business, I hope soon to hear 
 from you. 
 
 Yours, &c. 
 
 JOHN ASHTON NICHOLLS. 
 
ABDWICK, August %th y 1848. 
 
 MY DEAR SIR, 
 
 * * .* * I HAVE however placed those 
 subjects in the hands of P. W. Holland, the Sec 
 retary to the Health of Town s Association, him 
 self a medical man. As yet I have not heard from 
 him. You may remember he promised us a lecture 
 some time ago ; so I do hope to he able to carry 
 out the original plan of our lectures. 
 
 I am perfectly sure that some sound information 
 generally diffused, would (Jo more good in allaying 
 the often needless alarms of the ignorant, than 
 what are generally called Boards of Health. I do 
 not say that it is possible to popularize the science 
 of medicine, so that every man may be his own 
 Doctor, but I do think several cautions might be 
 given, impressing the need of attention to certain 
 simple rules, not as a means of cure when disease 
 has set in, or become chronic, but simply as a pre 
 ventive ; and I do not think at the same time, that 
 the Lyceum could engage in a nobler work, than 
 an attempt to lessen human suffering, pain, death, 
 and ruin, to hundreds, consequent upon the loss of 
 natural supporters and friends. 
 
 I purpose writing to the Committee of Privy 
 Council this week, or beginning of next, en 
 closing the agreement. I shall at the same time 
 ask them if any arrangements have yet been 
 
13 
 
 made about publishing good and approved text 
 books for teachers and pupil teachers also ; and 
 whether it would be possible to make any arrange 
 ment with their Lordships, for obtaining some 
 grants in aid of good evening schools. You under 
 stand the drift of this. I quite agree with your 
 
 remarks about Mr. H , and as no doubt some 
 
 proposal will emanate from him when next we 
 meet, I shall not say anything on that head. * 
 I hope to see our mill this week, but this dreadful 
 weather keeps me in. I fear for our harvest, and 
 our future prospects in general, what with wet 
 weather and potato rot, so prevalent throughout 
 the country. If I revolutionize, it must be but 
 small : I have no Chartist itch. 
 
 I thank you for all your good wishes and hints, 
 and believe me, 
 
 DEAE SIK, 
 
 Ever your faithful Friend, 
 
 JOHN A. NICHOLLS. 
 F. RICHMOND, Esq. 
 
 CHAPEL STKEET MILL, May 20^, 1849. 
 MY DEAK SIB, 
 
 I KECEIVED your note yesterday. I have 
 looked at the Minute Book, and seen what had 
 been done at the Meeting on Monday evening last. 
 
14 
 
 I think it will be a good plan to call a meeting of 
 members, and discuss our prospects together, and 
 see what can be done to increase the number of 
 members, and also the question of opening the 
 news room to the public at one penny each. I 
 think the Directors are quite right to hold it some 
 time in June. I do think that we are approaching 
 a crisis, and nothing but strenuous efforts will 
 keep us on our legs. I do not mean the effort 
 that would expend itself in one day s exertion, as 
 a Call or Soiree, or some piece of absurdity 
 like what the /Vthenseum has so long depended 
 upon ; but that quieter effort which will continue 
 over a longer period, and embrace the legitimate 
 objects of the institution in its results. I know 
 that it would be possible to relieve our present 
 necessities by an appeal, and an excitement of 
 some kind or other ; but I always admit the force 
 of the natural law, that " action and reaction are 
 always equal and opposite," and that the discon 
 tinuance of the excitement would leave us in a 
 worse position than we are at present. We must 
 depend on the elaboration of those principles on 
 which the Lyceum was originally founded, and I 
 should rather wish to see the working classes 
 themselves making the requisite exertions, than 
 have it done for them. Now, with the exception 
 of you and me, all the Directors are working men, 
 and I should feel very anxious to leave in their 
 hands, as far as practicable, the operation of the 
 
need of increased effort on their own part, and the 
 class they represent. The apathy and indifference 
 of the factory population towards education, is 
 something painful as well as fearful to contemplate. 
 I would that it were otherwise. We have put our 
 shoulders to the wheel, and cannot, nay must not, 
 draw back ; and with an agreeable Directory, as we 
 at present have, I hope we may ultimately succeed 
 in our plans. 
 
 At the meeting of the Lancasterian School Com 
 mittee (the annual meeting), Mr. F. said that the 
 education of the factory children was a dead failure. 
 Mr. M. was much vexed at this speech, and has 
 been asking my opinion about the progress made 
 at the Lyceum school. I told him that he might 
 contradict Mr. F. s statement in toto, at least so far 
 as we are concerned. I said the boys of our edu 
 cating had passed the examination for pupil teachers. 
 This of course satisfied him, but I could see the 
 insult thrown by Mr. F. had rankled in his breast 
 a good deal. Mr. Alderman Neild called upon me 
 the other day, to act on the Lancasterian School 
 Committee, but I declined, telling him that the 
 Lyceum had the first and greatest claim upon me ; 
 Mr. R. N. Philips also asked me, but I declined for 
 the same reason : better do one thing properly than 
 half-a-dozen ill. ****** * * * ^r ow 
 what are you up to in talking about offending 
 people, and hurting feelings, and all the rest of it, 
 not mine I hope, at all events, and then I don t 
 
care. I hope I have not done anything very wrong; 
 have I? Let me know your ideas on this truly 
 important subject, as well as on the other I 
 have alluded to. I always receive your opinions 
 with respect and deference, as the opinions of one I 
 esteem most highly, and whom I know to he actu 
 ated hy the best and kindest motives, as well as 
 being the opinions of one older than myself, to which 
 I ought therefore to pay every respect. Let me 
 hear from you soon, 
 
 And believe me, DEAR SIR, 
 
 Ever yours Faithfully, 
 
 J. A. NICHOLLS. 
 F. RICHMOND, Esq. 
 
 CHAPEL STREET MILL, March &th, 185G. 
 DEAR SIR, 
 
 I AM going to give a lecture in the Mather 
 Street Room, to-morrow evening, at eight o clock 
 precisely, on Strikes : will you favour me by 
 coming ? I don t know whether it will be requisite 
 to appoint a Chairman ; but, if so, will you kindly 
 act in that capacity ? 
 
 Most truly Yours, 
 
 JOHN A. NICHOLLS. 
 
 F. RICHMOND, Esq. 
 
17 
 CHAPEL STREET MILL, March 5th, 1856. 
 
 DEAR SIR, 
 
 YOUR quiet rebuke I must reply to. I most 
 certainly intend to keep my promise, and give a 
 lecture at Cavendish Street; but my considera 
 tions were just these, Am I likely to do more 
 good by lecturing on an abstruse subject to an 
 intelligent audience, or, at this moment of transi 
 tion from a state of excitement to one of rest, by 
 exposing popular errors and fallacies, and telling 
 the uneducated some plain truths ? I weighed the 
 two in my own mental balance, and decided, I 
 think rightly, in favour of the latter. Both at this 
 moment I could not undertake. The subject of 
 my lecture to-night has long occupied my thoughts. 
 I have hesitated and doubted : I even now cannot 
 say how my effort will be received. If well, I shall 
 be deeply gratified : if ill, I can only console my 
 self with the thought that I have done what my 
 conscience told me was a duty. I expect blame 
 from two parties, the class of inconsiderate, selfish 
 employers, and the Union Committees. 
 
 It is no light undertaking it is one full of 
 serious responsibility. You must tell the truth to 
 both, and not only that, but the whole truth. How 
 ever, I have undertaken a certain course in life. I 
 would fain, with God s blessing, do what little good 
 
18 
 
 I can ; and I will not turn aside because I may 
 meet with some obloquy. I cannot always please, 
 no man can do that ; but at least I can satisfy my 
 own conscience. This is enough for the best of us, 
 and surely sufficient for one with so many faults as 
 myself. 
 
 Now I know you will excuse me for apparently 
 not keeping my promise. I do not repudiate, I 
 only delay. 
 
 Most sincerely Yours, 
 
 JOHN A. NICHOLLS. 
 
 F. RICHMOND, Esq. 
 
turn tbt 
 
CONTINENTAL LETTERS, 
 
 VIENNA, March 19^, 1851. 
 DEAR MAMA, 
 
 I SHALL devote the remainder of this 
 evening to you. I received your very welcome 
 letter on Sunday. Thanks for all your chat and 
 gossip, which was very agreeahle to me indeed. I 
 
 had just returned from dining with Count B . 
 
 Very grand, very stiff; no one but himself and his 
 three sons, five grand servants, and a great big beadle 
 or porter, at the door, in crimson and gold. We 
 dined at half-past four, and I left at half-past seven. 
 Count Augustus wished me to go with him to one 
 of their castles on the Danube, to shoot roebuck, 
 dorit smile. We smoked a cigar in his divan, 
 which is filled with pictures. He is a very fine 
 young man. 
 
 I think I have told you all up to last Friday. 
 Next day I visited a few places of interest, among 
 them the Capuchin Church and Vaults, where the 
 bodies of the Imperial Family are buried, their 
 hearts being preserved in silver urns, in the Loretto 
 Chapel (St. Augustine). The most splendid 
 sarcophagus is that of Maria Theresa; perhaps the 
 
most interesting, the plain copper coffin of the 
 Due de Reichstadt, Napoleon s son. In one corner 
 
 lie the remains of the Countess F , the beloved 
 
 governess of Maria Theresa. This is the only 
 coffin containing other than the members of the 
 Royal House. I was shown through the church 
 and vaults by one of the monks, in his long gown 
 of coarse stuff, with rosary at belt. He took with 
 him a small lamp, like in form to those used by the 
 Romans. Very funereal was the light it gave. One 
 portion of the vaults is quite dark; the other is 
 sufficiently lighted from a large window. From the 
 vaults I went to St. Stephen s, and mounted the 
 tower, which is very high; but I was well rewarded 
 by the splendid view from the top. Here a man is 
 stationed day and night, to give notice of any fires 
 which may break out either in the town or country 
 round. He has a small telescope, which fits in 
 either of the four windows of the room. This in 
 strument is mounted with circles, by which he can 
 tell exactly where the fire is, and then writes down 
 on a paper the particulars. This he encloses in a 
 brass ball, and drops it down a tube, whence it is 
 carried to the fire office. He pointed out to me 
 the battle fields of Napoleon, Wagram, Aspern, 
 Essling, the island of Lobau, in the Danube. I 
 had also a fine view of the Carpathian moun 
 tains. * * 
 
 On Sunday Mr. F took us to the Prater, the 
 
 Hyde Park of Vienna ; the race course, and thence 
 
23 
 
 to Schonbrunn, a sort of Versailles, but not so 
 magnificent. The palace is not shown this is not 
 the time of the year for gardens ; but the green 
 houses well repaid a visit. We dined at the hotel, 
 and saw a true picture of Vienna life. The saloon 
 was magnificently decorated ; and one of the first 
 bands in Vienna played all the time we dined. 
 We got plenty of invitations from perfect strangers. 
 One gentleman, who was alone, would take one of 
 us in his cab back to Vienna ; and I can assure 
 you the day passed very pleasantly. 
 
 On Monday I called on H , to whom Count 
 
 Augustus gave me a letter. He was unwell, and 
 could not go with me to the Geological Museum, 
 of which he is a director, but sent for a gentleman 
 to take me there. In the meantime, we had a long 
 talk. He it was that arranged Mr. Allen s cabinet, 
 and drew out the catalogue, which cabinet is now 
 
 Mr. G s : he was very glad to hear something 
 
 about the collection. Mr. H then came, and we 
 
 visited the geological cabinet, which is very fine. 
 He then went with me to the Palace, where there 
 is a splendid collection of aerolites, and introduced 
 
 me to Mr. P , who has written a good deal on 
 
 meteoric stones. He then took me to the Museum 
 of Antiquities: introduced me to a director, who 
 very politely showed me many curious things, 
 remains, both Grecian and Roman, not usually 
 exhibited ; Maria Theresa s watch, made out of a 
 single emerald ; a bouquet of flowers made for her ; 
 
,-- 
 
 precious stones: and an opal, the largest in the 
 world, worth about J&B,000. In the evening we 
 lisited the Kart Theatre, which is the handsomest 
 in Vienna. They Kajil an "F-n<di<hmm in the plav. 
 and they reaflv made a fine fellow of him : but, of 
 
 
 
 coarse, very stolid, cold, phlegmatie. 
 
 Kohn does not much care about scientific mu 
 seums, hot he went with me to the Ambras Museum. 
 which JwntMire a very fine collection of armour; 
 you wifl easily believe that I was pleased covetous 
 at the same time. I thought how well some of it 
 would look in a little room I wot of * x There 
 were many suits of the Austrian and German 
 Emperors, among them Charles V.. Maximilian. &c. 
 The French stole four suits in Ir : that of 
 Godfrey of Bomflon, the Constable de Bourbon, 
 and two others. We then visited the Behidere, 
 which would hare delighted you. In the Church 
 of SL Augustine is a master-piece of Canova. the 
 Monument of the Arch-Duchess Christina. I took 
 Kohn to the Observatory, and introduced myself 
 as an F.RJLS. Mr. Littson. the Astronomer, was 
 rery polite. The building is very unsuitable for 
 the requirements of an Observatory, but Mr. Littson 
 hopes soon to have something better. Last even- 
 ing I sent for my passport, and was told I must go 
 for it myself, which I thought strange, as Kohn s 
 was sent without personal attendance : but I found 
 when at the office, it arose from an order from the 
 English Government, to know the number of 
 
English on the Continent, for the census of the 
 population of Great Britain, which is to be taken 
 this year. To-morrow, Thursday, we leave for 
 Trieste ; and. if possible, shall visit in our way the 
 quicksilver mines of Idria, and the Cavern of 
 Adelsberg. the Count having given me an in 
 troduction to the director of mines, of which 
 department he is minister. * * 
 
 T-ISTI. :>I v* 22nJ ? 1551. 
 DF\R 
 
 * * * * Ox Thursday morning we 
 made our last turn about Vienna; and in the 
 ning. at seven, left for here, by railway. The 
 line is only open as far as Gloeknitz, where it meets 
 the last outlying hills of the Alpine chain, which 
 we crossed in an eilwagen. The hill for it is 
 hardly a mountain we then travelled on, was called 
 the $emmering Pass. The scenery was very fine, 
 for although night, after ten o clock, the moon 
 lighted up the snowy peaks; making them promi 
 nent, and leaving the rest in still deeper shadow by 
 the contrast. After passing the mountain, we again 
 proceeded by railway. I kept sleeping and awaking 
 until about six in the morning, and found that we 
 were entering a true Alpine valley. The rocks 
 immediately surrounding not very high : but in 
 
26 
 
 the distance the snow- covered summits reared 
 themselves majestically in the air. Out of the main 
 valley many others opened on various sides. For a 
 long way we ran by the side of a river, I think the 
 Mur, on which were numerous small timber rafts; 
 in fact, until four in the afternoon, we had one long 
 succession of-splendid views, the whole terminating 
 in a fine open plain, in which Laybach, where the 
 railway ends, is situated. Here we arrived at five 
 o clock on Friday afternoon ; and at six, left by an 
 eilwagen for Trieste, which place we reached at ten 
 o clock on this Saturday morning; a journey of 
 about thirty-nine hours. On the road, we were 
 passed by the Imperial travelling carriage : the 
 Emperor is also visiting Trieste. When it became 
 daylight, we found we were toiling up hills, over a 
 most barren country, covered with large lime-stone 
 walls. At last, a column on the road- side gave 
 notice that we were at the top. It had been raining, 
 in fact has rained all day, hence it was cloudy; 
 had it been otherwise, the view must have been 
 beyond measure grand ! At our feet lay Trieste, 
 with its ships, mole, and harbour, seeming as if we 
 could step down upon it, and yet the descent took 
 us about an hour, so winding is this mountain 
 road ; the blue waters of the Adriatic ; the moun 
 tains of Illyria even to Istria ; and those along the 
 head of this fine sea. Had it been clear, we might 
 have seen to Venice, which I can hardly believe 
 is only ten hours sail from here. We are in the 
 
27 
 
 Hotel National, where too is staying the great 
 Austrian General, Marshal Radetzky. As soon as 
 the Emperor arrived, he paid the Marshal a visit ; 
 and just as we returned from a walk we met the 
 Marshal in the hotel hall. He is a fine old man, 
 86 years of age ; a little bent : and seems to suffer 
 from weak eyes. I was, indeed, glad to see him 
 the Austrian Wellington. 
 
 We heard the Opera House was to be illumi 
 nated, and as all the seats were taken, went early, 
 and got good standing places. Just before the 
 play began the Emperor came, attended by his 
 brother, and the Governor of Trieste. I felt 
 pleased that I had not missed him. After all, it 
 was rather curious that he should thus follow us to 
 Trieste, especially as I regretted not having seen 
 him in Vienna. The theatre was very full, and 
 most brilliantly illuminated. All wax lights, near 
 700 in number. The opera was the Huguenot. I 
 only staid two acts, for I felt very tired with so long 
 a journey, and having to stand all the time. 
 
 The pavement here is very good, all large stones, 
 I may say flags ; but then they have few horses, 
 mostly cattle with those sulky faces you noticed in 
 Cologne. Manchester calicoes seem to be in great 
 demand ; the shops are full of them. 
 
 March %4*th. The weather is so wet that we 
 have to give up our visit to the Cave of Adelsberg, 
 which is seven miles from Trieste. Owing to the 
 heavy rain, the bad roads would be impassable. I 
 
28 
 
 am very sorry; but under the circumstances it 
 would be foolish to go there. The quicksilver 
 mines of Idria are too far ; we could not possibly 
 accomplish them. To-morrow I leave for Venice : 
 Kohn, having business here, will follow me in a day 
 or two. He is a very nice travelling companion, 
 and we get on very well together. Having seen all 
 there is to be seen, it would only be wasting time 
 to remain here any longer. 
 
 I know many that are dear to me wiU not forget 
 that to-morrow is my birth- day, and only the second 
 one I have ever spent from home. I cannot mark 
 it better than by seeing on that day, for the first 
 time, the ancient " Queen of the Seas." Yester 
 day the town was all afloat, because the Emperor 
 intended to visit one of the ships of war in the 
 harbour. A large crowd collected by the stairs 
 leading to the barge intended for His Majesty and 
 suite. We waited a good while, and as he did not 
 make his appearance, went back to our hotel, where 
 Radetzky was holding a kind of levee. All the 
 officers, both army and navy, the town authorities, 
 and many others were there. Some of the uniforms 
 were very splendid, more especially the Hungarian 
 hussars. After this we took a boat and went to 
 one of the war steamers, which the officer allowed 
 us to see ; the engines were English. We then 
 returned a little way, and met the Emperor, who 
 went on the steamer we had just left. We remained 
 in our boat close to the ship, and saw all that 
 
39 
 
 passed. The men went through a few manoeuvres, 
 but not with the alacrity of English tars. The 
 vessel was dirty; a deal of noise ; want of neat 
 ness ; not to be compared with our English war 
 steamers. Just then, during the exercise, an 
 English brig came into port, and certainly looked 
 very well. I was glad to see again the old Union 
 jack : it looked like a little bit of home. The 
 Emperor did not stay long on board, and w r hen he 
 left, we followed, and went home to dinner. One 
 circumstance has struck me here very forcibly, 
 the silence with which His Majesty is everywhere 
 received. He is quite a young man, about 21. His 
 mother is the real governor of the state. 
 
 This letter is determined to be one of odds and 
 ends, and little scraps, &c. Yesterday afternoon, 
 we took a long walk, and had some fine views over 
 the Adriatic. We also saw many curious costumes. 
 Greek sailors, Greek merchants, Turks, Albanians ; 
 in fact, Trieste seems to be an omnium gatherum 
 of all nations. Many of the streets are steep and 
 narrow; houses high. The Cathedral has nothing- 
 very remarkable, except its age, having been partly 
 built in the 5th century. It is in the circular or 
 Greek style, and very dingy. 
 
 All the people we meet are going to London, 
 and ask a thousand questions, chiefly about hotel 
 expenses. Heaven help those who cannot speak 
 English! * * * 
 
VENICE, March 30*7i, 1851. 
 
 DEAR MAMA, 
 
 THIS place is so entrancing that I can 
 hardly find time to do anything but wonder what 
 kind of people the ancient Venetians must have 
 been ; but my pen points homewards, and reminds 
 
 me that I must not forget my duties. In my last 
 
 letter, I said that I should leave Trieste on the 
 25th ; but on that day it again rained heavily, so I 
 did not start, for I dreaded having my first impres 
 sions of Venice spoiled ; therefore, I put that day 
 down as a lost one. Wednesday morning was fine, 
 so I got up at a quarter-past four the boat sails 
 at six got comfortably on board, and away we 
 went across the blue waters of the Adriatic. The 
 day was glorious ; and about two o clock, we came 
 in sight of Venice, of which we could only see the 
 domes and Campanile rising above a low bank, 
 
 which separates the Lagoon from the open sea.- 
 
 The entrance from the port is difficult ; and we 
 went winding along between islands until, at one 
 turn, the whole frontage of the city was before us. 
 The boat stopped opposite the Lion of St. Mark. 
 Gondolas came all round and about. I got one, 
 and was soon at the Albergo dell Europa, which 
 was formerly the Giustiniani Palace. The halls are 
 paved with marble ; stairs also of marble. Every 
 
31 
 
 good house has two entrances ; one into a narrow 
 street or lane ; the other, from the canal. I was 
 not long hefore I issued out on an exploration; and 
 passing through the street door, a few turns 
 brought me under a piazza, in the Square of St. 
 Mark, which square far surpassed my expectations. 
 It is not so large. A piazza runs round it on three 
 sides, of marble; the fronts of the building being of 
 the same material, of course much blackened by 
 age. The nearest idea I can give you of it is, the 
 Palais Royal, in Paris, with this exception, that the 
 square is paved all over. Under the piazzas are 
 shops and cafes, drinking houses, and a palace. The 
 fourth side is occupied with the Church of St. 
 Mark, built in the Eastern style, like a mosque; all 
 marble. The front is beautifully ornamented with 
 mosaics, and much gilt. The interior is rather 
 gloomy, owing to the small size of the windows; but 
 contains a great deal of splendid mosaic work : the 
 floor all marble, beautifully inlaid ; and some very 
 curious figures and patterns of different colours, 
 also in mosaic. Before the church stand the three 
 great masts, on which the gonfalons of the Republic 
 formerly floated. 
 
 The Doge s Palace is built in the form of a 
 quadrangle, surrounding a large courtyard. Enter 
 ing by the Giant s staircase, on the top of which 
 the Doges were crowned, I went first to the hall of 
 council, a noble room, containing very fine pictures, 
 mostly of an historical character. The pictures have 
 
32 
 
 been taken out of the ceiling, on account of the 
 bombardment of Venice, lest any stray balls should 
 fall through them, and have not yet been replaced. 
 Round the room is the celebrated frieze of portraits 
 of the seventy-two Doges, with a black curtain 
 covering the space which should have been occu 
 pied by the portrait of Marino Falierio. The views 
 from the windows and balconies are very fine, 
 looking either towards the Lagoon, or on the open 
 space in which the two pillars stand, on one of 
 which is the Winged Lion ; on the other, the 
 figure of St. Theodore, the first patron saint of 
 Venice. The Lion was taken to Paris, but has 
 been restored. I saw also the well-known Lion s 
 Mouth, in wliich the secret accusations were 
 dropped ; and afterwards went into the dungeons, 
 which are something serious. There are not any 
 instruments of torture there, although the dungeons 
 of the Venetian Inquisition. Of course I went on to 
 the " Bridge of Sighs," leading from the palace to 
 the prison. There is not much to see in the 
 palace, except pictures ; and it is useless only 
 giving you a mere catalogue of them. It is 
 more a feeling of veneration for departed glory for 
 historic reminiscences than for what is actually 
 before you as a mere show ; and so it is through 
 out Venice, which, while it gives you the greatest 
 pleasure, affects the mind with melancholy. 
 
 The palaces of marble are in decay : not sixty 
 of the real old families in existence ; and their 
 
33 
 
 dwelling places, once most princely, are now 
 crowded by a squalid, filthy population ; else con 
 verted into barracks for Austrian troops, or into 
 hotels, and so forth. The Canale Grande, spanned 
 by the noble Rialto, is lined with these palaces. 
 On some, rank weeds are running over wall and 
 roof; whereas, a few a very few are in good order. 
 The Due de Bordeaux and his mother, the Duchess 
 de Berri, are living in one ; Taglioni owns five ; 
 and, to her credit be it said, is restoring them as 
 well as she can. The new buildings are all brick 
 and plaster, and join up to those of more costly 
 materials, giving the effect of a fine garment 
 patched with coarse stuff. The streets are, indeed, 
 narrow, they would delight you for in some of 
 the most crowded, in the part called Merceria, where 
 the best shops are, if you stretch out your arms you 
 touch both walls. Then you are constantly cross 
 ing little bridges over small canals, and hearing 
 the cry of the gondoliers to warn one another at 
 the turns. 
 
 The gondolas are ugly things ; a long boat with 
 a covered place in the middle, for all the world 
 like an English country hearse. They are all 
 painted black, and the central cabin is covered 
 with coarse black cloth, and has little crape bows 
 and bobs over it ; the dexterity of the men is 
 wonderful. 
 
 I have seen many churches, but will not trouble 
 
 you with these visits, beyond saying that the Jesuit s 
 c 
 
34 
 
 is the finest. The interior is white Carrara marble, 
 inlaid with verd antique. We went to the Church 
 of the Scalzi, built A.D. 1680, in which several of 
 the wealthiest families of Venice contended together 
 who should erect the handsomest altars of the purest 
 marbles ; and splendid indeed they all are. The 
 Church of the Frari contains the monuments of 
 Canova and Titian : poor Foscari is buried there. 
 There are many more very singular monuments; but 
 I would rather tell you what I see more characteristic 
 of the people. The day after I arrived here, his Im 
 perial Majesty followed, and this ancient city was 
 decorated in the old-fashioned manner carpets, 
 tapestry, silk, and velvet hanging from the windows ; 
 the vessels all dressed out in flags, for it was known 
 that the Emperor intended to restore the Franco 
 Porto, or charter of free port to Venice, the depriva 
 tion of which has reduced it most terribly; its trade 
 gone its merchants migrated to Genoa. * 
 
 When the steamer came into port she was sa 
 luted by all the forts, and then the ships of war, gun 
 boats and floating batteries, took it up. The sight 
 from iny bed-room window was very fine. I then 
 went into the Grand Square, where the Emperor, 
 followed by a brilliant staff, was reviewing the 
 troops the band playing "God save the Emperor." 
 In the evening, and every evening since, the Square 
 of St. Mark has been illuminated. The next day 
 Kohn rejoined me from Trieste ; he is delighted 
 with Venice. The morning after we took a gon- 
 
35 
 
 dola, and went round to the Churches I have 
 alluded to, finishing our day s work at the Opera. 
 The ballet was beautiful, taken from Goethe s 
 " Faust " ; it has had a great run in Rome, I en 
 joyed it very much. We could not have seen 
 Venice to greater advantage all gaiety. I can 
 hardly describe what I have witnessed to-day. It 
 is what is called a Corso on the Grand Canal. 
 Every gondola was engaged ; we had one ; and 
 about two o clock they all flocked to the Grand 
 Canal, and commenced rowing up to the Rialto, 
 where there was a military band. Many of the 
 gondolas were much decorated, especially those 
 belonging to private families. Some of the gondo 
 liers were dressed in fancy dresses many of them 
 old-fashioned. 
 
 The Emperor was there, and as soon as he 
 turned down, all the boats set off as fast as they 
 could drive down the canal, in number perhaps a 
 thousand, and formed quite an exciting scene ; the 
 men all so good-tempered with one another, and 
 yet all trying to pass the rest. Some had flags 
 flying on the bows, some with one rower, some with 
 two, three, four, and even six or eight. At one 
 time we were running close by the side of the 
 Due de Bordeaux, (Henry V. of France, if he can 
 get the crown), with him his mother, the Duchess 
 de Berri; then by the side of the Emperor s brother; 
 next by one of the Infants of Spain a very hand 
 some young man ; then by the Arch- Duchess 
 
36 
 
 Sophia, mother of the Emperor, and a whole host 
 of other great people, whose names I cannot re 
 member. The Papal Ambassador was there, with 
 the tiara and keys on his flag ; the Russian with 
 his one-headed eagle, and the Podesta of .Venice 
 (I am glad they preserve the old name of Podesta) 
 in fact there has not been seen a Corso for 
 several years, and we esteem ourselves fortunate to 
 have been here at such a time. 
 
 I am glad my letters interest you. I try to make 
 them as clear an account of what I see, or rather 
 the chief of what I see, as I can, but must really 
 acknowledge that I do not possess my Mama s 
 descriptive powers. Your enquiry about beds is 
 amusing. The best I have yet had is here in 
 Venice. Throughout Italy they are now using iron 
 bedsteads, and do away with the traveller s delight 
 as much as possible. They are a dirty people, and 
 therefore idle. I now understand dolce-far-niente. 
 The men lie about on marble steps, sleep all day 
 and night too ; a very little money keeps them a 
 long time ; when it is done they work for a little 
 more, and then are idle again. We had a nice 
 instance this evening. We were taking an ice in 
 the Square, and saw opposite to us a little boy, who 
 wrapped himself up in his jacket, and sat on a step. 
 I called him and gave him a kreutzer; he came 
 for it, took off his cap, bowed his head, and went 
 back again. Then he began talking to us, but as 
 we could not understand what he said, he repeated 
 
37 
 
 his words several times, but always from his seat ; 
 still we did not know what he said. At last, with 
 a sigh, he got up and came to us to tell it ; it was 
 such an exertion for him to rise. Kohn gave him 
 another kreutzer; then we saw him putting his 
 money in all forms, perfectly happy. Some have 
 such Murillo faces, and eyes that seem to express 
 everything without language. Among the lower 
 orders we meet with the finest faces, hut the old 
 women are ugly. * 
 
 MILAN, April &th, 1851. 
 
 HOTEL DE LA VILLE. 
 
 DEAR MAMA, 
 
 * * * * THE next day, Tuesday, we 
 left Venice at ten in the morning, by rail to Verona. 
 The country is very flat, but particularly fertile. 
 The almond and peach trees in blossom ; the 
 trees budding forth; and the whole has all the 
 appearance of spring. The railroad crosses the 
 Lagune, to the mainland, on arches ; and you see 
 Venice behind you in the sea. The effect is very 
 fine. Looming in the distance were the Alps, 
 cowered with snow ; and on the other hand the 
 outlines of the Appennines. 
 
38 
 
 We arrived at Verona at two : finding a diligence 
 at nine in the evening, we determined to take 
 that, and have a few hours in the town. We first 
 went to the Roman Amphitheatre which, in the 
 interior, is still as perfect as when erected by the 
 Romans in the year 71, near 1800 years ago. 
 The seats are all there, the stairs to them ; the 
 galleries below giving access to different parts of 
 the building ; but the row of arches round the top 
 is nearly all destroyed by an earthquake : it will 
 hold 80,000 persons. The works are of immense 
 strength, and except that the coating of cement is 
 knocked off the walls, are for the most part perfect. 
 There are still remaining the ticket offices, actors 
 rooms, and the great den under ground where the 
 wild beasts were kept, and let into the vast arena, 
 where no doubt many of the early Christians met a 
 fearful death. 
 
 You may be sure I looked with great reverence 
 upon this majestic work ; the first large building- 
 constructed by the former masters of the world I 
 ever saw. I think it would not be possible to 
 commence with a finer example. Verona contains 
 many remains of Roman antiquities, large arches, 
 but of course the Amphitheatre absorbs the greatest 
 amount of interest. I also could not forget that 
 Verona was the scene of Romeo and Juliet; I saw 
 the house of Romeo, and also that of the Capulets. 
 Juliet s tomb no longer exists, but they show you a 
 well, and call that the tomb. I did not go to see 
 
39 
 
 it. Near an old Church, Santa Maria 1 Antica, 
 are some curious tombs of the Scaligeri family, 
 about eight in number, surrounded by a very beau 
 tiful palisade iron railing or trellis work, consisting 
 of open quatre-foils. We then dined, 
 
 and at a quarter past nine left by diligence for 
 Milan. They go so slowly that it was really tire 
 some, -we reached Treviglio at two next afternoon. 
 There we joined the railway, our diligence was put 
 on a truck and so on to Milan, where we arrived at 
 four o clock. After the passports, Douane, &c., we 
 went to our hotel. The custom-house officers 
 asked for money; about eightpence each prevented 
 any examination. 
 
 Kohn did not want to dine at the table d hote, 
 but I would insist on it; he is a good-natured 
 fellow, so we hurried and went. Now I am going 
 to surprise you. In the room we saw some 
 American friends, who left Venice by the same 
 train, and who we knew would be at the hotel. 
 I spoke to them, and was sitting down, when a 
 gentleman jumped up, " Nicholls, how are you? 
 Oh, how astonished I am to see you here ! " Who 
 do you think it was ? Westphal, with his wife, on 
 their wedding- tour ! They are, indeed, a handsome 
 couple : he 20, his wife 17, just married a fort 
 night : he was delighted to see me, and I to see 
 him, and we had a deal of talk. The next day 
 they went to Monza, and we did not meet till 
 dinner time. In the evening we had a walk toge- 
 
40 
 
 ther. Westphal is more manly in face and figure 
 than when you saw him. He made many inquiries 
 about you and Papa, and desired to be remembered 
 to you. They left to-day for Venice. Yesterday 
 morning I set out for the Palace of the Brera, 
 where I found Frisiani lived, as Secretary to the 
 Imperial Society of Science. I went to a door 
 with his name on, and then he came up from some 
 other place ; I knew him again in an instant ; of 
 course he did not know me until I gave him my 
 card and told him who I was, and then I really 
 thought he would have wept over me, he was so 
 truly glad to see me, and then we had a long talk 
 about all in Manchester. Many were the inquiries 
 about our family, and was very sorry to hear that 
 grandpapa was dead. He wished me to come and 
 stay with him, but I told him I had a friend with 
 me. I went over the Observatory, and made an 
 appointment for the next day. I then met Kohn, and 
 we went to the Cathedral, which I cannot justly 
 describe, it is so really magnificent. Here we 
 found the American family, who went with us into 
 the vaults of the Church, to see the tomb of Saint 
 Carlo Borromeo, which is a room entirely sur 
 rounded with silver mouldings and pillars, and in 
 the intervals with gold tissue cloth. The sarco 
 phagus is solid silver ; by a machine, the front is 
 made to descend, and disclose the body of the 
 saint. The priest who showed it, first lighted eight 
 wax lights, and put on his cope. The coffin is 
 
41 
 
 silver, with panes of pure rock crystal, through 
 which you see the mummy, dressed in full ponti 
 ficals, with mitre, pastoral staff, and gloves, and 
 over his head hangs a gold crown, richly studded 
 with jewels, and an emerald cross, once belonging 
 to Maria Theresa, of great value ; but all the gor 
 geous trappings serve but to mock the poor dried 
 black skeleton that peers from out of them. * * 
 We then ascended to the roof, and had a very grand 
 and extensive view. We saw the whole line of 
 the Alps, from Mont Blanc, 165 miles distant, 
 Monte Eosa, St. Gothard, St. Bernard, with the 
 passes of the Simplon and Splugen, the Jung 
 Frau, and all on that side, of course at a very great 
 distance. 
 
 The roof of the Church is quite as interesting 
 as the interior, covered with pinnacles, each sur 
 mounted by a statue ; it is really wonderful. We 
 walked all over, through galleries, up and down 
 stairs of the most beautiful construction. It took 
 us several hours to see it. We then visited Sant 
 Ambrogio and Santa Maria delle Grazie. 
 
 Milan is a fine town, the streets are bustling, but 
 things look bad, it will not be long before a revolu 
 tion breaks out; the Austrians are hated, no one 
 will speak to an officer, indeed they dare hardly go 
 alone, and only Austrians go to the Theatre. The 
 whole city seems in a state similar to a lulled 
 volcano. 
 
 This morning I took Kohn and the Americans 
 
42 
 
 to the Brera, and saw through the picture galleries. 
 Frisiani is giving me a letter of introduction to 
 Father Rosa, a Jesuit priest in Rome, at the 
 Observatory there, in the Collegio Romano. * * * 
 I must now write to Aunt Staley. To 
 
 morrow we leave for Genoa. * * * 
 
 FLORENCE, April llth, 1851. 
 
 DEAR MAMA, 
 
 I TAKE the first opportunity of writing 
 since leaving Milan. On the Saturday morning 
 Frisiani called with the letter, and, after packing 
 up, we set off at one o clock by the courier, for 
 Genoa. The first part of our journey was through 
 a flat but fertile country, with the vines festooned 
 on larger trees, not yet in leaf. We see but the 
 skeleton of the beautiful Italian scenery. About 
 four we reached Pavia, and crossed the Ticino by 
 a wooden bridge, roofed in with tiles. A miserable 
 bridge of boats led us over another branch of the 
 same river, where our passports were vised hence 
 a few miles, and we came to the last Austrian out 
 post, which marks the frontier of the extensive 
 empire which has taken us so long to travel 
 through crossing the Po by a bridge of boats, we 
 
43 
 
 were on the frontier of Sardinia. The river is very 
 broad, in fact, a noble stream, and quite disgraced 
 by the bridge which crossed it. At this point all 
 the luggage was taken down, and really examined, 
 passports vised, and then we were allowed to con 
 tinue our journey. Night soon came on; as usual, 
 I composed myself to sleep, and did sleep soundly, 
 from half-past eight till five the next morning. 
 Kohn really envies me the power of falling rapidly 
 into the arms of Morpheus. When I awoke on 
 Sunday morning it was quite fine and clear, and 
 we were ascending among bold hills, not to be 
 called mountains. On the summit we had a fine 
 view over Genoa, something similar to the first 
 view of Trieste, except from this road you do not 
 see the whole town at once. At the gates, pass 
 ports again. About nine o clock we reached our 
 hotel, and after dressing, breakfast, &c., we engaged 
 a valet-de-place, and sallied forth to see the lions. 
 The Cathedral is nothing particular, but curious 
 some of the pillars being black and white marble, 
 in alternate squares, a style of building of which 
 I have now seen several examples. Here is kept 
 the celebrated Sacro Catino, which is locked up 
 with the greatest care one key being kept by the 
 town authorities, the other by the church hence 
 two fees. This is one of the doubtful treasures of 
 the Romish Church, so strongly commented upon by 
 Lady Wortley. The church says it is a single 
 emerald, formed into a dish, perhaps 14 or 16 
 
44 
 
 inches in diameter, given by Queen Slieba to Solo 
 mon that it was the vessel which held the Paschal 
 Lamb at the Last Supper, and that Joseph of 
 Arimathea caught in it the blood which flowed from 
 the side of our Saviour, when pierced on the cross. 
 The French say that it is a piece of glass, but 
 undoubtedly very old. We also pronounced it 
 glass, for you can distinctly see your fingers through 
 it, which would not be the case with a real emerald. 
 The Ducal Palace contains some fine marble halls 
 and floors, but is nothing like so interesting as 
 that in Venice. 
 
 I may say marble no longer excites our attention 
 as it did. In our hotel, Hotel Feder, formerly 
 the Palace of the Admiralty, we had a noble bed 
 room with a vaulted ceiling, painted with beautiful 
 frescos, marble balconies, marble door and window 
 frames, &c. At Sant Ambrogio or di Gesu ser 
 vice was going on ; this is a magnificent church, 
 rich in gilding and painting; it is built entirely 
 and is still supported by the Pallavacini family, 
 whose Palazzo in the Strada Carlo Felice is still 
 kept up in the olden style of furnishing. 
 
 In the Palazzo Durazza is the most elegant 
 marble staircase I ever remember to have seen. 
 
 The Palazzo Reale was in a manner re-furnished 
 for the late King Charles Albert, the state-rooms 
 are tastefully decorated, and it possesses a fine 
 gallery of pictures ; as the rooms are high up, there 
 is a hoist connected with one room, so that His 
 
45 
 
 Majesty can be saved the trouble of walking up 
 and down stairs, but is wound up and down like a 
 tin of cops or a bundle of yarn in a Lancashire 
 cotton mill. 
 
 After seeing the gardens we took a boat, and for 
 the first time floated on the waters of the Medi 
 terranean. The view of Genoa from the sea is fine, 
 houses rise in terraces above houses, and the tops 
 of all the hills are crowned with forts it deserves 
 its name Genoa la Superba. The streets, espe 
 cially the aristocratic quarters of the Strada Balba, 
 Nuova, Nuovissima, are indeed streets lined with 
 noble palaces. The women wear a sort of scarf, 
 the poorer class of coloured print with the gayest 
 pattern ; it is thrown over the head, brought under 
 the chin, and falls flowing over the shoulders. The 
 better class wear white muslin this dress is pecu 
 liar to Genoa. 
 
 The Sardinian soldiers are little, dirty, shabby- 
 looking fellows. In the evening we went on board 
 the Capri steamer, and at eight sailed for Leghorn, 
 where we arrived the next morning, between eight 
 and nine. The sea was smooth, and to my sur 
 prise and his own too, Kohn was not ill. Our 
 luggage was overhauled, more particularly to see 
 that we did not carry arms, for now in the Grand 
 Duchy of Tuscany, all the towns are full of Aus 
 trian soldiers to prevent revolutions. Passports are 
 becoming really troublesome and expensive. 
 
 I called on my old schoolfellow, David Moro, 
 
46 
 
 who was very glad to see me, and did his best for us 
 in the way of sight-seeing, &c. Left the next 
 morning by rail for Pisa, where we arrived in half 
 an hour. Before leaving Leghorn, luggage again 
 examined, and sealed with lead, a paper was 
 given to us, but my name was put out and in its 
 place, Signior W. S. Leather. I said, "this is not 
 my name;" the man said it was on the portmanteau: 
 then I found that he had written me down as War 
 ranted Solid Leather. We had a good laugh, for 
 they are very stupid. 
 
 In Pisa we visited first the Campo Santo or 
 Cemetery, in which no interments now take place, 
 except by permission. Next the Baptistry, and 
 then to the Cathedral, containing the usual quan 
 tity of pictures, altars, &c. It was here the lamp 
 hanging from the roof first suggested to Galileo 
 the idea of the pendulum. The Campanile, or 
 Leaning Tower, now claimed our attention. These 
 four, the only objects of any attraction in Pisa, being 
 close together, constitute a very fine group of 
 buildings. The Tower is most extraordinary in 
 its effect. It is fifteen feet out of the perpen 
 dicular ; and when on the top, you just feel as 
 if about to slide off. The ascent is by 330 
 steps, and not so very easy : to confess the truth, I 
 did not think so much of it as I did before seeing it. 
 
 We passed a palace of the Medici, with the 
 well-known crest of balls. At four we went by rail 
 to Florence, arriving here about seven, and came 
 
47 
 
 to our hotel pretty well tired. Next morning we 
 sallied forth ; first the Cathedral, which is con 
 structed of variegated marble ; the front still un 
 finished. The Church of the Annunziata is very 
 magnificent. The altars and Chapel of the An 
 nunziata are crammed full of wax legs, arms, &c., 
 the offerings of those who have heen cured by 
 miraculous agency. I then called upon the Baron 
 
 S , and found the Baroness at home. She 
 
 invited me to come in the evening. I told her I 
 had a companion, and hoped I might present him. 
 So in the evening we both went, and spent two 
 hours very pleasantly. The Baroness is a Russian, 
 the Baron, a German. Between my morning and 
 evening visits, they had intelligence of the death of 
 her father, which obliges them to return to St. 
 Petersburg. 
 
 Now come our failures. The great galleries of 
 the Uffizi and the Pitti Palace, are closed till after 
 the Holy Week. Thus far though we have tried 
 all we can shall not be able to see the Venus de 
 Medici, and the other treasures of art they contain. 
 This is a real disappointment, the most serious we 
 have met with. We have wandered over half the 
 town to find the director of museums, to try and 
 get a special order which he will not grant. Only 
 been able to see the curious Museum of Natural 
 History in the Pitti Palace, and the wax anatomical 
 models, which are truly beautiful ; and also, to 
 my delight, the Salon erected to the memory of 
 
48 
 
 Galileo; here are his instruments, and here his 
 great triumph the first telescope ever made, a 
 noble statue of the great philosopher, and in a 
 glass vase the first finger of his right hand. Some 
 of the instruments are very curious, both in design 
 and construction. We then visited the church of 
 Santa Croce, containing the monuments and tombs 
 of Galileo, Dante, Michael Angelo, Alfieri, Machia- 
 velli, the wife and child of Joseph Buonaparte, and 
 many others belonging to the noble families of 
 Tuscany, it is their Westminster Abbey. We 
 have also seen the Convent of St. Mark, dirty 
 enough for anything, and if ever in my life I con 
 nected any idea of a romantic character with con 
 vents or monks they are for ever disenchanted. 
 There are Dominican monks in white dresses, 
 coarse, fat, lazy, hypocritical-looking fellows, too 
 idle to work ; they enter the Church and rot in 
 their cloisters. We have seen plenty of Francis 
 can friars in brown serge cloaks and sandal- shoon, 
 and all look as if clean water were unknown to 
 them : all have the same slouching gait, and all 
 seem equally averse to labour. As for priests one is 
 really tired of seeing them, they literally swarm 
 over the land. 
 
 The fine Medicean Chapel, in the Church of 
 San Lorenzo, was intended for the reception of the 
 Holy Sepulchre, which, however, was not obtained. 
 It is a lofty chapel, surmounted with a cupola ; 
 round the inner surface of the vaults are some 
 
very fine paintings ; the walls are entirely covered 
 with different- coloured marbles, with porphyry, 
 chalcedony, jaspar, agate, lapis lazuli, mother-of- 
 pearl, and other precious stones, w r orked into roses 
 and groups of flowers, composing the Florentine 
 mosaic of pietre commesse. Round the base are the 
 armorial bearings of the cities and states of Tus 
 cany. It is a fine town, but not so fine as I 
 expected to see. No doubt not seeing the galleries 
 has had a bad effect on our general impression. 
 The Arno, yellow with mud, is crossed by several 
 bridges ; one, the oldest, is very singular, as it is, 
 except in the middle, a street of shops, something 
 like the Rialto at Venice. 
 
 Beggars swarm too lazy to get up even to beg, 
 but with their eyes shut, snoozing in the sun, ask 
 for alms. In Pisa we were much amused ; a 
 beggar woman asked charity of us ; we shook our 
 heads she said " Non, non," then slowly pointed 
 one finger up to heaven, shook it then turned it 
 down, and pointed the other way, as much as to 
 say she, a poor woman, would go to heaven, and 
 we, who refused alms to her, would go to another 
 nameless place. 
 
 D 
 
50 
 
 EOME, April 18th, 1851. 
 
 DEAR MAMA, 
 
 I REALLY date this letter from the Eternal 
 City, but I must not anticipate. 
 
 Saturday, we looked Florence over again. Baron 
 
 S called, and gave me a letter of introduction 
 
 here, which I have not yet delivered. In the after 
 noon we went to the Observatory, but did not meet 
 with Father Antinoi, the astronomer. Sunday, 
 visited Fiesole, and had some fine views of Florence 
 and the surrounding country. * On 
 
 Monday morning, up at half-past five, in time for 
 the diligence ; and now for a day of adventures. We 
 were taken to the railway, and had tickets given us 
 for Siena, whence the journey to Rome is per 
 formed in a diligence. We were told the conduc 
 tor would look after us in every way. Kohn, I, an 
 English clergyman, his wife, and a young lady, were 
 the passengers from Florence. We had been talk 
 ing together for a long time ; and noticing we were 
 passing some stations we had seen on the way from 
 Leghorn, enquired from the guard if it was a Siena 
 train. " Oh, you ought to have got out at Empoli." 
 Here was a fix; we had passed the station. Well, we 
 went on to Pontedera, where there is a telegraph 
 station, and told the station-master. Though the 
 telegraph is only for the use of Government and 
 
51 
 
 the railway, he politely allowed us the use of it : 
 we sent a message to Siena, telling them the dili 
 gence must wait for us. Got an answer that it 
 could not, and would start at one o clock. As 
 no train could get to Siena till near nine at night, 
 we sent them another message, that if they would 
 wait till four, we could get an express engine. No, 
 they would not wait. We then sent them word to 
 send back our luggage and passports, which were 
 in the hands of the conductor : we should hold him 
 responsible. We then set off back to Florence. 
 The clergyman would have it, it was all a trick, a 
 cheat. At Empoli got a third answer ; all would 
 be sent back. Pleasant this, after paying our fare 
 to Rome. At Florence we found some difficulty in 
 getting in to the town, not having any passports; a 
 small bribe did that for us. We went to the dili 
 gence office, and told our tale. The master listened 
 till we had had our say, and then said, " Well, 
 gentlemen, it is clearly the fault of the conductor ; 
 you must go back to Siena to night. I will send a 
 clerk with you, and if the diligence has gone on, 
 will forward you by post direct." This gave us 
 every satisfaction ; we then got some dinner. The 
 master came again, and said he had received a dis 
 patch the diligence was waiting for us. At half- 
 past five we retraced our steps ; the conductor met 
 us at Siena, where he had waited eight hours. Of 
 course he was not to blame ; it was the railway 
 guard : however we were all pleased with the ter- 
 
52 
 
 mination, and off we set. The next morning early 
 we reached the Tuscan frontier, on a fine hill com 
 manding an immense prospect. A little further 
 on we crossed, or rather went through a stream, 
 and were in the Papal States. The road is very 
 hilly, scenery lovely on all sides. We sometimes 
 had in addition eight horses, and two or even four 
 bullocks, where the passes were very difficult. 
 Each step we took showed us a more beautiful 
 country, and a more wretched population. The 
 late appearance of the diligence at the different 
 stations, caused great excitement, and over and 
 over again the same tale had to be told. We met 
 plenty of carriages attended by soldiers, but no 
 brigands. 
 
 At the Tuscan frontier we had a little bad coffee; 
 a boy priest was the waiter, and I saw him trying 
 if the beverage was warm, by putting his dirty 
 fingers in the can. 
 
 At Acquapendente, where we arrived at noon, 
 we had a dejeuner a la fourchette, after which we 
 travelled on all day. The conductor would not stop 
 again, as he did not like to pass some places in the 
 dark. 
 
 We passed the beautiful lake of Bolsena, the 
 shores of which are fertile, but the malaria prevents 
 those who till the soil living near it. Another 
 beautiful moonlight night, and about half-past five 
 I caught a view of Kome. The approach gives you 
 no idea of your proximity to the great Capital. 
 
53 
 
 Desolate roads, a few old towers, a few tombs, you 
 cross the Tiber by the Ponte Molle, through a 
 straggling suburb, and then reach the Porta del 
 Popolo, and you are in Eome. At the Custom 
 House, a few pauls saved us any trouble. Then 
 for an hotel : we wandered about for two hours 
 could not get rooms any where. Here we are at 
 last in furnished apartments, fourth story, looking 
 into the Corso. We afterwards got some breakfast 
 
 at a cafe, and then called upon Mr. K , who gave 
 
 us tickets for Lent Sunday at St. Peter s. After 
 this visit we proceeded to St. Peter s, crossed the 
 bridge opposite St. Angelo, which frowns over it 
 with its vast round keep ; and turning to our left, 
 were soon before the noble fagade of the chief 
 Catholic Temple in Europe. To enter it, and not 
 feel its grandeur is impossible ; but to say that 
 I was as impressed with it as Cologne, or York, 
 or Westminster, I certainly was not. Dickens, 
 in his " Letters from Italy," is quite right about 
 it. There is nothing in it to give you any impres 
 sion of a religious nature. Its very vastness des 
 troys this effect, and yet it is truly noble in its 
 proportions. 
 
 I have been in it now several times, and think 
 that it rather grows upon you. The monuments 
 are not many, but are fine. I will talk about them 
 another time. At three o clock, after returning to 
 our lodgings to dress, we visited the Sistine Chapel 
 to hear the Miserere, and found ourselves in the 
 
54 
 
 midst of a fashionable crowd, chiefly English ; and 
 had full time to admire the Swiss Guard, in their 
 quaint dress. The doors opened, and we all rushed 
 in, and the chapel was soon full 2,000 people 
 trying to get into a place that holds 500 only. I 
 got close to the front railing, which separates the 
 priests from the people. At a quarter-past five it 
 began : a little before that, the Cardinals came in 
 and took their seats, dressed in purple robes, scarlet 
 stockings. I counted fifteen of them, each at 
 tended by his servant in orders, who unswathed 
 him as he stood, and let down his petticoats. Anto- 
 nelli, the Cardinal Secretary of State, an intelligent- 
 looking Jesuit, was conspicuous amongst them; 
 though there were several very fine old men. They 
 now brought fifteen candles, on a triangular 
 frame all lighted; then a wooden cross. And 
 now the Pope, in a splendid scarlet embroidered 
 mantle, and a mitre on his head; he was conducted 
 to a seat under a canopy, and then the Penitential 
 Psalms began. Gradually all the lights, except 
 one, which was carried behind the altar, were 
 extinguished ; this lasted two hours, and was par 
 ticularly tiresome ; then the Miserere commenced, 
 wild, wailing, unearthly voices, that seemed tones 
 of some instrument, swelling and falling in a really 
 touching and impressive manner. After this, a 
 great knocking of sticks, the light was brought 
 from behind the altar, and all was over. I was 
 very glad, for 46 hours travelling, and standing in 
 
55 
 
 the chapel near six, had wearied us quite out. 
 This chapel, as you know, is decorated with the 
 frescoes of Michael Angelo, which are very fine, 
 but much discoloured ; it did not come up to my 
 expectations. The next day the Pope blessed the 
 people, and washed the feet of the pilgrims ; we 
 contented ourselves with the last exhibition, not 
 being able to do both, so we went into the chapel, 
 filled with people (seats for the ladies, all of whom 
 are obliged to be veiled in black) foreign ambas 
 sadors, French officers, and, in a box, the ex-King 
 of Bavaria (Lola Montes friend) and the Grand 
 Duke of Saxony. I got close to a barrier by which 
 the Pope passed, and had a good view of him ; he 
 has a cunning look, but withal shrewd, but such a 
 pious demeanour. As he passed he blessed us, and 
 we all bent to him, preceded by the Noble Guard, 
 consisting of young men of the first Italian families. 
 He then took his seat ; the thirteen pilgrims, who 
 had previously entered, were perched up in full 
 view, each attended by a Cardinal such a set they 
 looked ! one old man had a fine white beard ; they 
 were placed just under a picture of the Last 
 Supper, and one was not unlike the Judas above ; 
 they were of all nations, one Chinese, one Cingalese. 
 The attendants took off the Pope s mitre and 
 robe, and wrapped a towel round him, one holding 
 a basin, another a towel ; then he went to the first 
 in order, sprinkled a little water on his foot (all 
 their feet had been well washed), wiped it with a 
 
56 
 
 towel, and then kissed it ; so on to all. His Holi 
 ness got through as quickly as possible. 
 The first evening we arrived here, we went to the 
 Colisseum, to see it first by moonlight ; and here 
 I cannot describe the impression I felt it was 
 old Rome ! 
 
 There was that arena in which so much blood 
 had been spilt ; there, the walls that had resounded 
 with the cries of people excited by the most 
 barbarous sports ; and there was the placid sky, 
 and the moon casting the arched shadows where 
 they have fallen for 1800 years ! It was a scene I 
 can never forget ; one of those hallowed spots in 
 memory which nothing can efface ! In the centre 
 is erected a cross triumphant, where early Christians 
 perished. 
 
 There were many people there, talking and 
 laughing ; but we stayed till all was still, and then 
 you feel the place and the hour. Surrounded by 
 all that was great in the world : close at hand the 
 arches of Constantine and Titus : the palace of the 
 Caesars, spreading its vast ruins over one of the 
 seven hills ; temples, fountains, columns, all, all 
 in ruins ! Modern Rome is dirty and wretched, 
 with a miserable people, priest-ridden to the last 
 degree, a mere stye to what the ancients have left 
 grand in decay and desolation. Up this morning at 
 half-past six : at the Sistine Chapel at half-past eight, 
 to hear pontifical high mass, which begins at ten. 
 Another squeeze ; very hot, and very unpleasant. 
 
57 
 
 The cardinals came in again; in broad daylight 
 they are a set of fat, snuffy, dirty-looking fellows. 
 Then the Pope and the service began, which is 
 very beautiful indeed, they chaunted a chapter 
 from the New Testament, the crucifixion of Christ. 
 Then they uncovered the cross and figure of our 
 Saviour, which is veiled during Lent ; it was laid 
 on a cushion, the Pope knelt before it, adored it, 
 and kissed it; after him, all the cardinals, chief 
 officers, and inferior clergy. Then a grand pro 
 cession : the Pope went to fetch the consecrated 
 elements from the Pauline Chapel : shortly returned 
 under a canopy, with a large silk umbrella over his 
 head, the vessels in his hands under his robe. 
 At half-past twelve it was over. 
 
 After all, these ceremonies of the Holy Week 
 are rather tiresome. 
 
 You must look at this Letter as a sketch only. 
 
 ROME, April 22nd, 1851. 
 
 DEAR MAMA, 
 
 * FIRST, I suppose, you must 
 receive my absolution in full, concerning what you 
 alluded to in your letter for now, having been so 
 often blessed by the Pope, some virtue must have 
 
58 
 
 descended upon me, and gives me the power to 
 absolve. 
 
 In Florence, for the first time, one moonlight 
 evening, I really felt myself in another climate ; the 
 clearness of the soft night falling round the deeper 
 shadows, by contrast, and the mild air, all contri 
 buted to the effect. In Rome we have met with the 
 deep blue sky for which we have been longing. 
 It is getting very warm, but as yet not too hot to 
 prevent our taking plenty of exercise ; the multitude 
 of stairs we have to climb giving us plenty of that. 
 
 When I first went into St. Peter s, there were a 
 great many pilgrims in the church, with their staffs 
 and wallets, and olive- coloured faces; they all kissed 
 the toe of St. Peter, which figure is a large one of 
 metal, quite black, seated in a white marble chair. 
 The toes on the right foot are nearly kissed away 
 I saw one pious individual carefully wipe it with 
 his pocket handkerchief before kissing it. 
 
 I am glad the holy week is over; it is the hardest 
 work in the world to attend the ceremonies ; there 
 are no seats, and you have to stand for hours in a 
 dense hot crowd. On Saturday we 
 
 went to St. John Lateran, which is a magnificent 
 church, being the chief or head Catholic church 
 in the world. Here the popes are crowned. Ser 
 vice was going on, being a consecration service of 
 priests, the chief cardinals conducting it. Here 
 we were shown many Catholic relics, a portion of 
 the table on which Christ eat the last supper with 
 
59 
 
 the Apostles ; it is religiously preserved, in a gilt 
 frame, with a lamp before it ; also the pillar of the 
 Temple of Jerusalem, which fell when the Temple 
 was rent in twain, at the Crucifixion ; two pillars 
 of Pilate s house ; and the well at which our 
 Saviour met the woman of Samaria. These are 
 kept in the cloisters. In the church is a fine 
 chapel, and monuments of the Torlonia family, rich 
 bankers in Rome. Near this church is another 
 building, containing the sacred stairs, up which 
 many penitents were painfully toiling on their kness, 
 at each step a prayer is said, then the penitent 
 kissed the step, and so on to the top. I saw that 
 the most knowing ones crept up close by the wall, 
 which helped them up a little. The finest thing is 
 a statue of Cons tan tine, outside the church, under 
 a portico. 
 
 Sunday ; up at six, and off to St. Peter s, where 
 pontifical high mass was celebrated by the Pope. 
 It began a little after ten. Again a dreadful crowd 
 and crush near the altar. The centre of the 
 church was kept open by a line of soldiers on each 
 side. The procession enters. First, the acolytes 
 and incense bearers, crosses, &c. ; then, priests 
 and cardinals, and lastly the Pope, seated in his 
 chair, carried by men, with the canopy over his 
 head, the fan-bearers on each side. His dress was 
 white, magnificently embroidered with gold, and on 
 his head the tiara ; before him were carried mitres, 
 and another tiara. He blessed the people as he 
 
60 
 
 passed ; and close to me he extended his hand, and 
 blessed : I was not a yard from him. He had a 
 smile on his face, and looked to much better advan 
 tage than when I saw him before. He seems a 
 benevolent, kindish man ; but cramped on all sides 
 by those odious priests. He was conducted to his 
 seat ; and then he began to chaunt the service, of 
 which little could be heard. The most imposing 
 part was the elevation of the host ; when, having 
 taken off the tiara, he (the Pope) first held up the 
 consecrated wafer, and then the cup of wine, over 
 which prayers had been constantly said since Thurs 
 day evening. At that moment all knelt, the 
 soldiers swords clattering on the ground, and then 
 all silent ; it was really imposing. By the altar is 
 the shrine of St. Peter, with the hundred red lamps 
 burning before it. Ere the service was over, all 
 rushed out to see the benediction of the people. 
 We got near, under the gallery or balcony, but that 
 is only in the square. The sight was very fine. 
 About 4000 soldiers, drawn out in order, a vast 
 throng of people completely filling it. The Pope 
 appeared, pronounced the benediction (which we 
 could just hear), with outstretched arms, the cannon 
 fired, and all was over : so ended the Holy Week ! 
 On Sunday afternoon we set off along the ancient 
 Appian way, and visited first the Baths of Cara- 
 calla, which are of vast extent ; some portions of 
 mosaic pavement yet remaining, but all one mass 
 of ruin. In fact, I may say once for all, that the 
 
61 
 
 Roman ruins but show how great and vast was the 
 scale on which everything was erected. Of the de 
 signs, the divisions of buildings, you can make little 
 out now; the marbles are gone, statues removed/a few 
 shattered walls alone remain. We then went to the 
 tomb of the Scipios, which is a singular excavation 
 in the rock, of great extent. Scipio Africanus is 
 not, however, buried here. From there to the 
 Columbaria, the most curious place I have yet 
 seen ; a small one-storied building ; you open a door 
 and descend a deep flight of steps, excavated in 
 the rock. The walls are perforated with small 
 holes, like pigeon holes, hence its name. In small 
 holes at the bottom of these pigeon holes, were 
 deposited the ashes of the dead, after the burning 
 
 s~\ /~v 
 
 of the bodies. They are thus : 
 
 / s^~~^ x*~~v 
 
 bottom. 
 
 so each one would hold the ashes of two bodies ; 
 the holes being covered with earthenware lids. In 
 many of them were fragments of bone. Out of one 
 I took a small bone, which is the last bone but one 
 of the vertebrae, hence I know it to be human. It 
 has been burnt, and from the inscription, it was one 
 of the Freedmen of Domitian. There were three 
 of these very interesting tombs. 
 
 In the evening we went to see the great sight, 
 the illumination of St. Peter s. When we arrived 
 there they were lighting it up, rows of lamps from 
 the earth to the top of the cupola ; so that, as it 
 got darker, the whole architecture of the vast temple 
 
62 
 
 stood out in lines of light pillars and windows, 
 dome and cross. A little after eight a bell sounded ; 
 at the first stroke, light issued from the top of the 
 dome, and on it hundreds of torches were blazing 
 out all over it. The cloisters in front of the build : 
 ing seemed one vast fiery erection. 
 
 It was a sight impossible to describe, for so much 
 of the effect was produced by the sudden transition 
 to intense brilliancy. We left it still burning. 
 From the bridge of St. Angelo the fiery cross, high 
 in air, looked splendid. 
 
 Monday morning ; first visited the Quirinal, in 
 which are the two fine horses, one by Phidias, the 
 other by Praxiteles, the works of the best days of 
 Greece. The palace contains some fine rooms. 
 Here the Pope lived before the revolution, and is 
 again going to reside there in the summer. His 
 bedroom is very plain, steel bedstead; next to this 
 what? a billiard-room it must be a good game. 
 Then we went to St. Maria Maggiore, which is a 
 noble church, with its great nave supported by 
 Ionic pillars of white marble ; the chapel of Pope 
 Sixtus V. is very handsome. Then to the Cata 
 combs of St. Sebastian ; a monk took us in, and, 
 with lighted tapers, we solemnly marched after 
 him such passages! I no longer wonder that 
 people have lost themselves therein. We saw many 
 under excavations, in which the early Christian 
 martyrs were interred, their secret chapel, and 
 other places of great interest: the tombs of St. 
 
63 
 
 Cecilia and St. Marcella, they are merely shelves 
 scooped in the rock, and have been walled up again. 
 We then visited the Circus of Romulus, son of 
 Maxentius, which is very large, though only the 
 foundations point out the site; hence to the cele 
 brated tomb of Csecilia Metella, the wife of Crassus, 
 which is a large round tower, the walls 25 feet 
 thick ; it was used as a robber chieftain s castle in 
 the middle ages, and although war, pillage, plague, 
 and every other evil has passed over it, it is in many 
 respects perfect, and from its massiveness bids fair to 
 be eternal. Next, the Palace of the Caesars, gardens 
 high up cover its fallen ruins ; few rooms remain ; one 
 they call Seneca s room, and his bath adjoining, also 
 the Emperor s room and library the wild weed grow 
 ing, and a thousand years press on it now; those of its 
 halls that remain are used for farm purposes. How 
 are the mighty fallen an empire s dust is there, 
 and better so than desecrated as so many remains 
 are. After a visit to the pyramidical tomb of Caius 
 Cestius, went to the Cloaca Maxima, the great 
 sewer of Rome; it was constructed by Tarquinius 
 Priscus, 800 years before Christ, and is still the 
 main sewer of Rome. It is also one of those buildings 
 erected for eternity. The vast stones are put toge 
 ther without any cement, like those in the Colisaeum, 
 but fit exactly. Near here is the Arch of Titus. 
 In the evening the fireworks concluded the festi 
 vities. Upon our arrival at the Piazza del Popolo, 
 it began to rain a little, but this soon cleared away, 
 
64 
 
 and at a quarter-past nine the cannon fired, and then 
 a vast erection of scaffolding, covered with fireworks, 
 blazed out in most beautiful colours; then a giran 
 dole of hundreds of rockets burst into the air, like a 
 vast volcano, covering the sky with a canopy of fire 
 of all colours. Bouquets of flowers, wheels, serpents, 
 crackers, and cannon. The most beautiful was a 
 representation of a waterfall. Streams of fire fell 
 from the upper part, and appeared to pour down 
 into the square red and green fire : the whole 
 ended with a tremendous discharge of rockets. 
 It was a most brilliant sight ; in fact, I never saw 
 such a display of fire-works before : it lasted twenty- 
 five minutes ; and must have cost a deal of money. 
 We have been fortunate in seeing all places to the 
 greatest advantage. 
 
 To-day we have been to the Barb erini, Borghese, 
 and Doria-Pamfili Palaces. In the first is the pic 
 ture of Beatrice Cenci, very beautiful indeed, a soft 
 melancholy countenance, full of expression. In the 
 other palaces are magnificent galleries of pictures, 
 many of them of not much value. In the Rospi- 
 gliosi Palace we saw the Aurora of Guido Reni. 
 
 This afternoon we went to a theatre in the open 
 air. The play was Romeo and Juliet, not quite the 
 same as the English Romeo and Juliet. This 
 theatre was once, or rather the building, the tomb 
 of the mighty Augustus, now turned into an 
 amphitheatre. The arches of Titus, erected to 
 commemorate the conquest of Jerusalem, and of 
 Septimus Severus, are fine indeed. 
 
65 
 
 We visit the Vatican to-morrow. On Friday we 
 
 have made a party, ourselves, H , an Italian, 
 
 an American from Philadelphia, a converted Quaker 
 now a Catholic, to go to Tivoli. We shall take a 
 coach, and perhaps be two days away. 
 
 We are tired of churches, having seen so many. 
 Except the four Basilicas, they are not particularly 
 interesting. 
 
 I enclose a short note for Dr. B . I cannot 
 
 undertake any writing whilst I am away from 
 home. One gets too jaded to write much, except to 
 you ; and I am glad you think me a good corres 
 pondent: it cheers me up, and makes me still 
 more wishful to please you both. Fathers Zecchi 
 and Rosa, of the Observatory, in Rome, have been 
 very polite : they both take snuff, and look very 
 dirty indeed. A great comfort they speak 
 English 1 
 
 NAPLES, May 3rd, 1851. 
 
 DEAR MAMA, 
 
 FOR the first time, eleven days without 
 writing to you ! owing, you may be sure, to cir 
 cumstances over which I had no control. * * * 
 Well, I must resume. The 33rd the day after 
 
66 
 
 I wrote last we went to the Capitol, and saw" the 
 pictures and gallery of statues; among the latter 
 are many very fine antique busts of celebrated 
 personages, including philosophers and statesmen,: 
 as well as emperors. In the Farnese Palace nothing 
 particular a few painted ceilings, 
 
 In the Palazzo Spada is the noble statue of 
 Pompey, at the feet of which Julius Caesar fell, 
 when mortally wounded by his assassins. This I 
 was indeed glad to see ; it absorbed all my atten 
 tion there so much, that the pictures did not 
 receive their fair share of notice. 
 
 We then passed the Tarpeian Rock, and visited 
 the celebrated Mamertine Prisons, the state prisons 
 of ancient Rome, consisting of two dungeons ; the 
 only access to the lower one was by lowering the 
 criminal by means of a rope, and then leaving him 
 to perish : now there is a staircase. Tradition says 
 St. Peter and St. Paul were imprisoned here, and 
 from all considerations and circumstances I think 
 there can be little doubt it would be a most likely 
 place for incarceration. The fountain is still there, 
 full up to a certain height, which arose at the 
 Apostles command, for the purpose of baptizing 
 the faithful converts to Christianity. Not many 
 good pictures in the Gallery of St. Lucca. As a 
 matter of course, among so many galleries there are 
 many fine paintings, but also much rubbish, of 
 Saints, Madonnas, and Crucifixions; somuchrepe-, 
 tition is rather tiresome. 
 
67 
 
 Next day tried the Vatican again; still closed. 
 Some Grand Duke going through. Five times 
 we were unsuccessful, and did not see this famous 
 gallery until our last day. This being a broken day, 
 we only saw the Pantheon, and the St. Pietro-in- 
 Vincoli. The former is the Roman Temple of that 
 name, exactly as it was in ancient times, and con 
 verted into a Church. It is lighted by a large open 
 aperture in the roof, and as it was wet (it can rain 
 in Italy) the rain poured down in torrents through 
 the opening. Here Raphael was buried. The 
 Pietro-in-Vincoli is a handsome church : we did 
 not see the chains which bound the Chief Apostle ; 
 the Pope keeps the keys. The next morning, 
 
 in company with a Frenchman, H and the 
 
 American, we went to Tivoli eleven miles from 
 Rome and spent a most delightful day. Our first 
 duty at Tivoli was to order dinner at the inn. Then 
 taking a guide, set off to the Cavern or Grotto of 
 Neptune, where the water has worn the rocks in a 
 most wonderful manner. A great portion fell some 
 years ago, which spoiled the Grotto. The old fall of 
 the Romans has been altered by the last Pope, and 
 its direction changed. We then went down and 
 saw the smaller fall from another point of view, 
 till it fell into a deep dark chasm, called the 
 Grotto of the Sirens. We then took donkeys, and 
 mounted up a steep hill, until we came to the 
 new falls, which were thundering down to a great 
 depth. We had some other views of the falls, which 
 
68 
 
 everywhere are beautiful. The country round is 
 really lovely. I cannot describe it. We were 
 among the hills, and before us an immense plain, 
 extending to Rome, which place was marked by 
 the stupendous dome of St. Peter s, the size of 
 which you do not appreciate until you see it from 
 a considerable distance. 
 
 We returned, and dined in the ancient temple 
 of the Sibyl, which is in the hotel grounds, 
 and commands a fine prospect. On one side we 
 had the site of the villas of the poets Horace and 
 Catullus, with that of the rich Mecsenas. After 
 dinner we returned by Hadrian s villa, and saw 
 gigantic ruins of palaces, which in size and splen 
 dour must have far exceeded anything in the world. 
 Here were found most of the finest statuary and 
 marbles in Rome, mosaics also. The country round 
 is volcanic in structure ; we crossed a sulphur 
 stream so strong, that we could smell the sulphur 
 more than two miles off. 
 
 Next day, again unfortunate at the Vatican ; 
 visited the manufactory of mosaics; these are 
 made of little pieces of coloured composite, not 
 unlike glass, but harder, each piece has to be fitted 
 in separately, and to complete a picture, say the 
 likeness of the Pope, then in hand, will take an 
 artist eight or nine years ; they are then polished, 
 and at a distance look like a painting. In St. 
 Peter s, all the altar pieces are mosaics, and must 
 have taken an immense amount of time and labour 
 
69 
 
 to complete, to say nothing of those in the dome. 
 Those I saw were all intended for St. Peter s. 
 
 Sunday, we went to Frascati, twelve miles from 
 Eome ; our carriage held representatives of six na 
 tions, I, Kohn, an American, a Frenchman, a Eus- 
 sian, and the driver, an Italian. We again mounted 
 miserable donkeys, and went to the ruins of the 
 Theatre, then to the celebrated villa of Cicero, which 
 commands a noble view,- on one side the Castle of 
 Gondolfa Eicca di Papa, and the valley sweeping 
 down into the plain, with St. Peter s again visible ; 
 the Villa Borghese, which is also well situated. 
 Prince Borghese married for his first wife a daugh 
 ter of the Earl of Shrewsbury. In the chapel is a 
 statue of her as an angel, holding the shell for the 
 holy water. 
 
 Next day, successful at the Vatican, and well we 
 were repaid ; such galleries of rich statues, busts, 
 basso and alto-relievos; everything that is grand and 
 noble. The real Apollo Belvidere, the Laocoon, 
 the Torso, Perseus, Head of Medusa wonder after 
 wonder till you become quite bewildered amidst such 
 a concourse of all that is celebrated in art. We 
 wandered about, I may say quite lost in astonish 
 ment but we saw everything, that I can say. We 
 only regretted not being able to go again, for that 
 night we left for Naples. The picture gallery is 
 
 not large, not more than fifty pictures, but all good. 
 
 * * * * 
 
 In company with four others we left Eome at 
 
70 
 
 pne o clock, for Naples, in a post carriage, holding six, 
 stopping when and where we liked. Throughout the 
 whole day we travelled through a beautiful country, 
 past orchards of oranges and lemons, all ripe, or 
 ripening on the trees, and bought them fresh 
 gathered for us ; palm trees and cactuses, all in the 
 open air. We passed the celebrated Pontine 
 Marshes, which quite disappointed me ; I expected 
 to see something much worse than Chat Moss, 
 instead of which it is one mass of rich vegetation. 
 Our road lay through a grand avenue of trees the 
 whole day, I did not feel any malaria (so dorit 
 believe in it.) 
 
 The last Papal town is Fundi, and soon after we 
 entered through a gate into the States of Naples. 
 Passports looked at, we had to spell the names of 
 the places we had passed through, so stupid were 
 they. Next place, the luggage taken down, but not 
 examined ; they at once asked you for money 
 made no bones about it. At half-past five on 
 Tuesday afternoon we arrived at Molo-Gaeta, near 
 where the Pope stayed when exiled, and as we could 
 not pass through Capua after a certain time of the 
 night, we dined here, and remained until eleven, 
 Before dinner we took a boat, and sailed in the bay, 
 orange trees hang over the sea, everything diffe 
 rent to what we had seen before. The scenery of 
 the bay is very fine indeed. 
 
 Start off again, and at nine next morning are at 
 the Hotel de Geneve, at Naples. 
 
71 
 
 After breakfast first went to the Museum, whicli 
 Contains the relics of Herculaneum and Pompeii. 
 Here were the lamps that were found in these 
 cities, which must have been lighted every night 
 when our Saviour was on the earth. Cooking 
 utensils, pans, stoves, paste-moulds, locks, keys, 
 arms and armour, ladies toilet apparatus, even the 
 rouge still in the pots; jars of fruit and wine, 
 bread left in the oven, and burnt quite black, with 
 the maker s name on it; rings, seals, jewels, articles 
 in glass, in earthenware ; statues, bronzes, inscrip 
 tion papers ; in short, the whole contents of a house 
 that will not perish. Of course hardly any wood 
 work, if any, unless we may reckon a few things in 
 ivory under that head. Stocks for the prisoners 
 feet, skeletons, and a few mummies ; it is, indeedj 
 a wonderful collection. The bay surpasses my 
 expectations. Vesuvius is quiet; only a slight smoke 
 hanging on the summit ; it is not quite so high as I 
 expected to see, but it looks, knowing what it is, 
 very volcanic indeed. Went to bed early, tired after 
 two nights travelling. 
 
 Next day, in the afternoon, went by railway to 
 Pompeii. I hardly know how to begin : a city of 
 silence the pavement as good as when laid down; 
 good footpaths of party-coloured stones, the ruts 
 still there, worn by the traffic of 2,000 years ago. 
 The fronts and most of the walls of the houses are 
 standing, and only require roofs and furniture to 
 make it again a city fit for life. The wine shops, 
 
72 
 
 with great earthen jars fixed in the marble counters, 
 just as now in this town ; the former with its pillars 
 and tribune. The temples, theatres, everything 
 in short, just as the people left it in the year 79 
 of the Christian era. 
 
 You will remember the "Last Days of Pompeii " 
 the Temple of Isis, which I saw, and the house of 
 Diomedes, which must have been a very hand 
 some, noble mansion: round the garden is a kind of 
 cloister or cellar, here the bodies were found. In 
 one place the wine jars are still standing against 
 the wall, imbedded and held up by the scoriae of 
 Vesuvius. The street of tombs must have been 
 particularly fine ; and outside the gate are the re 
 mains of a large hotel, where persons could stay till 
 morning when arriving at the city after the gates 
 were closed for the night, which practice is still con 
 tinued in Italian cities ; for instance, you cannot 
 enter Eome after nine o clock without a special 
 permit. I mean to pay Pompeii another visit when 
 I go to Herculaneum. 
 
 We dined at the Inn, at Pompeii, in a large open 
 place looking over the bay: on our left hand Castel- 
 a-Mare ; on our right Vesuvius, looking very gloomy; 
 and in front, at sea, Capri and Ischia, where we 
 were to have gone to-day had it been fine. 
 
 Before I left Rome Father Zecchi called. I was 
 not in, but he left for me a letter of introduction to 
 Annibale di Gasparis here, which I shall present. 
 
73 
 
 NAPLES, May 12th, 1851. 
 DEAE MAMA, 
 
 WE were too late to see the miracle of St. Januarius, 
 so contented ourselves with the blood in the phial, 
 and the tiara of the Saint, which they tell you is 
 worth an immense amount of money. 
 
 On Monday we took a carriage and went to BaisB. 
 We passed through the Grotto of Posillipo, which 
 is a much longer tunnel than I had imagined, and 
 went along the sea shore by a most beautiful road, 
 with unrivalled views on all sides. At Pozzuolo 
 we saw the Temple of Jupiter Serapis ; the pillars 
 of which, three in number, indicate the rise and 
 fall of the land, which must have been very great ; 
 the floor is some feet under water. The amphi 
 theatre is also sunk ; so much so, that now you go 
 down hill and enter into the second story ; though 
 so sunk, this theatre is in many respects perfect 
 the arches and corridors still standing so massively 
 have they been built to withstand the great changes 
 produced by eruptions and earthquakes around 
 them. We then went to the Lucrine Lake, cele 
 brated for its green oysters in the days of the 
 voluptuous Romans, and passing that to the Monte 
 Nuovo, (thrown up 500 feet in a single day during 
 the earthquake and eruption in 1538,) which divides 
 
74 
 
 the Lucrine from the Lake Avernus, across which, 
 it was said, in days of yore, no bird could fly be 
 cause of the malaria, but which is now perfectly 
 healthy. We then, with a guide, entered a dark 
 cavern, and were carried, on men s backs, through 
 water into the subterranean palace of the Sybil, 
 where she uttered her oracles, but which is now 
 nearly destroyed and closed up by the earth 
 quake, and the lava of Monte Nuovo. We were 
 glad to get out again, and were pretty black from 
 the smoke of the torches which had to be carried 
 before us. We also saw the ruined temples of 
 Mercury and Apollo, the ruins of a palace or villa 
 of Cicero, and then arriving at Miseno, visited 
 another subterranean palace of Nero s, called the 
 100 Chambers, mostly closed by lava and ashes. 
 
 We returned by the Grotto-del-Cane : my little 
 model at home is much handsomer than the reality. 
 It is very small, and the carbonic acid gas very 
 strong. A little dog was laid on its back ; the poor 
 little thing rolled its eyes, panted, and soon became 
 almost insensible. It was then taken out, and after 
 reeling a little, came to itself again. Two great 
 torches were instantly extinguished at some distance 
 from the ground. In another grotto the gas exhaled 
 appeared to me to be nitrous oxide, or laughing gas, 
 much diluted, quite sweet to the taste. Next we 
 visited the sulphur baths, where the hot sulphur 
 and steam pours out of holes in the ground. The 
 heat is very great, and soon produces perspiration. 
 
75 
 
 If you stamp on the floor in any of these grottos, 
 you hear that the ground is hollow. Near here is 
 a lake, and in one place we saw hot water boiling 
 up through the cold water, with a large disengage 
 ment of gas. * * * 
 
 . On Wednesday was our grand excursion, but 
 first, on Tuesday afternoon, I called on Annibale 
 di Gasparis, the astronomer. Cappoli, the chief 
 astronomer, was complicated in the revolution, and 
 obliged to run away. Gasparis was a pupil of his 
 and has discovered three planets; is quite a young 
 man, and very poor. I had a long talk with him 
 in French ; he can read English, but not speak it. 
 I was much pleased with my visit to him. 
 
 Well, now for Wednesday, the day of days. Left 
 Naples in a carriage at eleven o clock for Kesina, 
 and started on ponies, with a guide, to ascend 
 Vesuvius. For some distance our route lay 
 through a long, winding, steepish lane, gradually 
 obtaining fine views of the bay, and ever before us 
 the frowning summit of the mountain. We then 
 came upon a dreary district, entirely covered with 
 large masses of lava, it seemed as if, indeed, 
 ploughed by thunderbolts. The lava is here and 
 on the cone of a dusty colour. We then got into 
 a carriage road, which leads to a villa or observatory 
 belonging to the King, and soon arrived at the 
 hennitage. Here we dismounted, and took a little 
 Lachryma Christi, anything but good, after which 
 we remounted, and continuing our course over a 
 
76 
 
 similar plain of lava, reached the foot of the cone 
 at two o clock. Here our labours commenced, and 
 we began to climb over masses of lava which are 
 piled up to the very top, and which constitute a 
 wall about as steep as a house side. One man 
 went before each of us, with a rope over his shoul 
 der, by which we held on, another pushed behind, 
 
 so up we went (L was with us), stopping 
 
 several times to rest. Quite knocked up, we reached 
 the summit exactly at three o clock, having been 
 one hour in ascending the cone. In a short time 
 we entered the old crater, such a scene of solemn 
 grandeur I never saw equalled; everywhere the 
 ground was quite hot; beneath our feet, around us, 
 vast masses of lava, and in front the two craters, 
 one of 1839, the other of last year, to which we 
 first went, and from which we saw the steam rising ; 
 all around was yellow with sulphur ; we walked 
 along the ridges at the top, and looked down on 
 the Monte Somma, which was the ancient crater 
 that destroyed Pompeii, with its steep walls 
 of rock, and below the vast sea of lava, which 
 poured down from Vesuvius in 1850. Looking 
 down into the new crater, we could see broken 
 masses of rock torn into every form, and the ashes 
 sloping down towards a ridge overhanging a black 
 pit, whence issued smoke, steam, and sulphurous 
 gases ; we went down carefully towards this ridge, 
 and erected a monument on it. To look round, 
 and see the wonderful effects exhibited by these 
 
77 
 
 stupendous forces, which are capable of rending 
 mountains in sunder, and pouring destruction 
 everywhere around ! A man that came up with us 
 placed some eggs in a crevice in the mountain, 
 which were speedily roasted, even burnt. 
 
 After enjoying the splendid sight from the summit 
 of the cone, and being half suffocated with sulphur, 
 we went across the ancient crater, and then to the 
 crater of 1839. This is wider than that of last year, 
 but not so deep, and is now quite closed at the bottom, 
 so that you could descend into it, which we did not, be 
 cause of the difficulty of climbing out again over the 
 loose ashes. Standing on the highest point of the 
 mountain, you can form no idea of the extent and 
 grandeur of the scene : the whole of the bay, extending 
 to Cape Miseno ; the Islands of Capri, Ischia and 
 Procida; Sorrento with the coast down to Castel-a- 
 Mare, and below, Pompeii; in the distance the 
 ridges of the Appennines altogether the most 
 magnificent view I ever saw. When we had feasted 
 our eyes sufficiently, we commenced the descent ; 
 plunging our heels into the loose ashes, and leaning 
 backwards, were at the bottom in about five minutes, 
 and when at the bottom could hardly feel our legs. 
 Mounting our ponies we set off again, resting a 
 
 short time at the Hermitage. R had asked 
 
 L to get for him some blocks of lava for 
 
 the Peel Park, and send them by steamer at his 
 expense; so passing some masses we selected four 
 blocks, which are now in Naples ready to be sent 
 
78 
 
 off, We arrived at our hotel at eight o clock, having 
 been just nine hours on our excursion. 
 
 Next day Kohn and I went to Caserta, a palace 
 of the King s, 18 miles from Naples; his majesty 
 is at present here. We had no permit to enter, 
 but if you remember, a young Swiss officer I met 
 on the Rhine steamer, gave me some introductions 
 to Swiss officers, stationed here and at Naples. One 
 
 of them, Baron S , very politely gave us orders 
 
 to go through the palace and gardens. The palace, 
 like all other palaces, is very splendid. The Pope 
 resided here some time, and his bust is in one of 
 the rooms. The gardens are very fine, with large 
 numbers of peacocks screaming and strutting about. 
 
 On Friday I got up early, to go to Capri by the 
 steamer, to see the Azure Grotto. Kohn was lazy, 
 and would not get up, so I went alone. The boat 
 was small, the sea rough, and most people, 
 including myself, sea-sick; and when we got to the 
 island, after three hours sailing, we found the sea 
 so rough that to enter the grotto was impossible ; 
 the entrance is by the sea, and through a small 
 arch, over which the waves were dashing. We 
 landed, and went about the island; it began to 
 rain. I got something to eat, returned to the boat, 
 made another attempt at the grotto, but all in vain. 
 Saturday, G , L , and Julius S , ac 
 companied us to Herculaneum. The excavations 
 are quite different to Pompeii, having been over 
 whelmed with lava, and the work is hard to effect. 
 
The arena has been excavated completely, the seats; 
 stage, everything. Of course it is all underground, 
 the road to it is through a tunnel. We visited the 
 Palace of Portici, and saw both palace and gardens. 
 On the staircase in the palace, in one corner, is a 
 
 picture of * to protect the inmates from the 
 
 evil eye. * * * * 
 
 PALERMO, May SOtft, 1851, 
 
 DEAR MAMA, 
 
 WE left Naples on Wednesday last, the 
 14th instant, at three o clock, for Palermo. Before 
 the steamer started, all the passengers were called 
 over by the police, to see that none left who were 
 not by them allowed to leave. The steamer was a 
 good one : Kohn and I had a nice cabin on deck; 
 he was sick, I not, though not altogether comfort 
 able, for the vessel rolled a great deal. There are 
 many curious sights in the streets of Naples I never 
 saw elsewhere : for instance, as the people generally 
 can neither read nor write, many persons find em 
 ployment as street secretaries, and sit at little 
 tables in the streets, with their paper, pens, and 
 ink ; and here and there an anxious face bending 
 
 * Letter torn, and name of picture obliterated. 
 
80 
 
 over telling its tale, some in sorrow, some in joy, 
 but all equally desirous that the secretary shall 
 write what they tell him. Then there are the cook- 
 shops, with their fires all lighted in iron stoves, in 
 the street ; and for a trifle a man can get his fill of 
 maccaroni, which a true Neapolitan eats without 
 knife or fork, using those supplied by nature. Most 
 workpeople have their benches in the streets oppo 
 site their shops, and joiners, smiths, filers, all at 
 work in the open air. Then there are the water 
 sellers, who for a grain will sell a glass of iced 
 water : they have a gaudy painted stand, with large 
 buckets swinging on pivots, from which they pour 
 the water into glasses ; for two or three grains they 
 give a glass of iced lemonade or orangeade, which 
 they make by cutting the fruit in two, and with a 
 pair of clams, like large nut- crackers, squeeze the 
 juice into the glass through a strainer and very 
 refreshing it is. Then, everywhere are people 
 hunting in their own shirts and heads, or their 
 neighbours, for the small cattle so abundant in 
 Italy. Add to these the various smells which greet 
 you at different corners, and you will have some 
 idea of Naples in the streets. 
 
 Whilst you are reading the above, you must imagine 
 the night has passed away, and in the morning 
 the rocks and mountains of Sicily are before us. 
 
 In good time we enter the Bay of Palermo, sur 
 rounded with magnificent scenery, the town close 
 to the water, on the edge of a plain, which is on all 
 
81 
 
 sides shut in by mountains. We were taken to 
 the custom-house, and for two shillings each got off 
 any examination of luggage. We then crossed the 
 bay to a second custom-house, where eightpence 
 between us saved any trouble, and entered the town 
 through a third custom-house, where the same fee 
 was again an equivalent three custom-houses to 
 enter from Naples, another portion of the same 
 kingdom. It is nothing more than official robbery, 
 and by these shabby means a great part of the staff 
 of the police is kept up and paid. * We 
 
 went to the Hotel Trinacria; it is kept by a person 
 who was for some time courier to an English family, 
 had been often in England, and speaks English 
 well. The rooms he had saved for us being too 
 high up, we have instead, two bed rooms, a saloon 
 ante-chamber, with some small rooms, in a palace 
 next to the hotel. Our furniture is gilt, the walls 
 covered with satin, but faded; and for all this 
 grand accommodation we pay four shillings each a 
 day. This palace belonged to some family exiled 
 for political offences. 
 
 After breakfast we went to the top of Monte 
 Pelegrino, which forms one end of the bay, and 
 from here we had a noble view snow-capped 
 summits in the distance, and the mountains round 
 tinged with the glorious colours that only an 
 Italian atmosphere can give. 
 
 In Naples I was introduced to a young man a 
 
 Mr. P , of Palermo. After dinner, he called 
 
 F 
 
82 
 
 upon us, and took us a drive in his carnage a 
 very stylish turn-out. His father is the Postmaster 
 General of Sicily, and to him we are indebted for 
 all our pleasure here. He has placed carnages 
 and horses at our disposal ; has heen with us, or 
 rather taken us everywhere. 
 
 Our intention was to have gone on Saturday 
 from here to Catania, hut the fatigue of the journey 
 has deterred us from it. Fifty hours in a wretched 
 coach, on the worst roads in the world, through 
 fine scenery, but nothing to eat : these considera 
 tions have, with P s kindness, kept us here till 
 
 the 21st, when we take the steamer to Messina. 
 
 P introduced us to his cluh, where we can see 
 
 such papers as are admitted into Sicily. His 
 family are at Messina, so he is alone at present. 
 
 On Friday he took us to Monreale, where there 
 is a very fine church 1100 years old. The interior 
 is all mosaic, and the columns are white marble. 
 There is also some fine wood carving in it. We 
 visited also a monastery there, with the finest 
 cloisters I ever saw ; the pillars had been nearly all 
 in mosaic work, but that had been destroyed ; the 
 capital of each column is different from any other. 
 
 The weather is quite cool at present, but N 
 
 says a few days ago there was a sirocco, which 
 lasted three days, and burnt them all up. We felt 
 it at Naples ; it made us feel languid, but here it 
 was in its fury and heat. To show you what a 
 climate it is, there are groves of oranges, lemons^ 
 
83 
 
 figs, and vines, all round the town; the cactus 
 and Indian fig, with its fruit in its great leaves : 
 strawberries and cherries are getting over, and the 
 crops of wheat are all in, in time for a second crop, 
 if they were not too idle. 
 
 The town of Palermo consists of two long streets, 
 exactly crossing each other at right angles in the 
 centre ; the principal street is the Toledo, and in 
 it are many nunneries; in the upper stories of 
 these nunneries are grated balconies, through which 
 you see the nuns peeping down on a world in which 
 they cannot mingle ; it would just suit you. 
 Outside the town are many beautiful chateaus, 
 summer palaces, and monasteries. 
 
 On Sunday, P brought us donkeys, and we 
 
 set off to visit San Martino, a monastery of the 
 
 Benedictines, among the mountains. P has a 
 
 friend there. It is a wealthy monastery, and has 
 never been pillaged or interfered with. There are 
 17 brothers, all of rich families; 20 novices, and 
 30 servants ; their revenue is about 40,000 crowns 
 a year. This good Father showed us everything 
 in the monastery (the manuscripts in the library 
 are very valuable), the hall, the pictures, cloisters, 
 and he took us into his own room, which is very 
 neat, a nice bed under an alcove, a writing table, 
 plenty of books, saintly pictures, &c. Out of a 
 cupboard, near his bed, he produced some glasses 
 and a flask of rich old wine, which we much 
 enjoyed, and his eyes twinkled with pleasure to see 
 
84 
 
 that we liked it. They are noted for their hospi 
 tality to strangers, and it was with much ado we 
 dissuaded him from giving us a dinner. I think 
 we should have liked it nevertheless. We went into 
 the chapel and heard the fine organ, and in the 
 interval of the service were taken into the organ loft, 
 and the organist played us a piece to show the 
 power of the instrument, introducing drums, trum 
 pets, and cymbals. From the windows and terraces 
 the views are splendid on all sides ; the road to it 
 is through a valley constantly rising and winding, 
 crossed and re- crossed by babbling currents of 
 purest water. It was a most delightful excursion, 
 and we parted with our kind and friendly Father 
 with many thanks for his politeness. 
 
 We have visited most of the churches, which are 
 very beautiful; the Cathedral is curious in its archi 
 tecture. Also went to the Capuchins, out of the 
 city ; a filthy-looking friar conducted us into the 
 vaults, where the dried bodies of monks and other 
 people are kept; on the sides are coffins of all shapes, 
 some with glass sides, some with glass near the head 
 of the corpse, and you see them dressed in habits 
 as in life. In niches above are the dried bodies of 
 the monks for years and years, each in his gown and 
 cowl, with a cord round his waist. On some the skin 
 is yet hanging, some are mere skulls, on others a little 
 hair stlil left, all ghastly and horrible ; better to be 
 buried out of sight at once. Children there also ; one 
 little one I noticed, features perfect, but dark co- 
 
85 
 
 loured, dressed in silk, and on its withered hands 
 white kid gloves, and there they will hang till bone 
 drops from bone ; it was altogether a most curious 
 
 sight. In the morning P took us in his carriage 
 
 to Bagaria, which is a small town of palaces, where, 
 before some alteration in the laws, the Sicilian 
 nobility resided, they are now falling into decay, 
 
 none having the means to keep them up. P 
 
 introduced us to a Prince who is still wealthy ; the 
 gardens round the palaces are very beautiful indeed. 
 
 This morning we went, about eight o clock, in a 
 boat to see the tunny fishing. The tunny is a large 
 fish, caught in great quantities in the bay, each fish 
 is worth about <4., and weighing from two to three 
 or four hundred weight, seven or eight feet long. 
 We were fortunate in seeing them draw the net. 
 I don t quite understand the form of it, but it 
 seems they are led from one to a smaller, and so 
 on to the last. One large boat is fixed, and the 
 men, in another, keep drawing up the net, so as to 
 draw the fish towards the other ; then you see these 
 large monsters swimming about, splashing like 
 whales ; there were 23 in the net, the men stuck 
 hooks into them, like boat-hooks, and pulled them 
 into the boats, and the water, so blue a few moments 
 before, was soon red with the blood that flowed 
 from the terrible wounds they made in the poor fish. 
 I have tasted them, but the flesh is very coarse, 
 and looks not unlike poor veal when cooked. 
 
 We returned at eleven to breakfast, and then 
 
86 
 
 went to the Royal Palace, to see the Observatory 
 and the Chapel. The Directors of the Observatory 
 are no longer there, owing to revolutions and so 
 forth ; the instruments are all English. The chapel 
 is extremely fine, 1,000 years old, and is one mass 
 of mosaics. We have been with P this even 
 ing, to the Palace at which the Emperor and 
 Empress of Russia staid, when her imperial majesty 
 came to Palermo for her health, and where she 
 resided six months. It is a little gem of a place, and 
 the gardens are luxuriantly beautiful. We then 
 went to another garden, containing many singular 
 contrivances : jets of water play on you suddenly, 
 if you tread on the steps of a little summer-house, 
 the door opens, and a figure steps out to meet you 
 in the dress of a monk ; in another is one writing, 
 and a third nods his head, and raises his hand, being 
 represented as reading in his cell ; there is & fourth, 
 out of order, but if you open it, a figure dashes 
 water in your face. There is also a labyrinth, very 
 difficult to thread. 
 
 Altogether we have much enjoyed Palermo ; the 
 scenery around is most beautiful, the changing 
 hues of light and shade, the rich vegetation, all 
 combine to produce a tout ensemble not to be for 
 gotten. 
 
87 
 
 MALTA, May Qof/i, 1851. 
 
 DEAR MAMA, 
 
 You will hardly expect a line from me 
 here, but the steamer goes to England to-morrow 
 and I just scribble you a few lines. We left 
 Palermo for Messina, and had a rough passage ; 
 many ill I quite well, and eat my dinner. Messina 
 is nicely situated, and the straits are very beautiful 
 indeed, but have no time to describe them now. 
 On our passage we had a view of Mount Etna, 
 sublimely piercing the clouds, its summit appear 
 ing above them. It is an enormous mountain it 
 was smoking. Yesterday we went on board the 
 
 French Government steamer, and found J 
 
 S on board ; at two we left, and arrived here at 
 
 eleven this morning, and this evening at five we 
 sail by the French Government steamer Osiris, for 
 Constantinople, where we hope to be on the 1st of 
 June. These steamers are commanded by officers 
 of the French navy, and are war steamers very 
 good indeed. This is the first of the foreign pos 
 sessions of England I ever saw. The harbour is a 
 noble one such forts, such tiers upon tiers of 
 cannon, above which floats the flag of England. 
 In the harbour are six vessels of war ; the Admi 
 ral s ship, The Queen, 120 guns. As soon as we 
 dropped anchor, an English naval officer came to 
 
88 
 
 know all about us; where from, and what we 
 wanted, according to custom. He looked so nice 
 and clean, and his uniform so good ; besides, he 
 was a handsome looking fellow. 
 
 The streets of Valetta are terribly steep in 
 steps mostly, and strange to say, here you see 
 policemen, with blue coats, and staffs in their 
 hands : great indeed is the difference between a 
 country enjoying freedom, and under good govern 
 ment, and the wretched States we have been in, 
 for in wretchedness Sicily far goes beyond all Italy. 
 It is Sunday, and all the ships are dressed out in 
 flags, and look very well ; all look clean, and were 
 it not for the climate, and a few foreign indications, 
 one would imagine one s self in England. I am 
 only here five hours, so want to see all I can. Ex 
 cuse this short scribble look upon it as a post 
 script, and not a letter. Now we are going to buy 
 
 a book, having none left to read. J S is 
 
 going with us : in three days we shall be at 
 Athens. ****** 
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE, JUNE 1st to June 6th, 1851. 
 HOTEL DE BYZANCE IN PEEA. 
 
 DEAR MAMA, 
 
 One letter from the City of the Mosques 
 I must write ; but, according to my usual custom, 
 
89 
 
 must first write up from the last point, which was 
 Malta. 
 
 Being so few hours in Malta, we could not see 
 much beyond a general view of the harbour and 
 the fortifications. I should have liked to have 
 visited the Church of the Knights of St. John, but 
 it was closed. We had an English dinner at the 
 Hotel in Valetta, and by five o clock were on board 
 the French war steamer, in which we were to go to 
 Constantinople. At six we started, and went to 
 bed in good time; the weather has been fine, sea 
 smooth as a lake, and our life on board very plea 
 sant. At nine we breakfast a la fourchette ; dinner 
 at five, tea at eight, all very good. On Monday we 
 did not see land. Tuesday, at breakfast time, were 
 off Cape Matapan, and during the day coasted along 
 the shores of the Morea, passed Cerigo, one of the 
 Ionian Islands, and on Wednesday morning, about 
 three, dropped anchor in the Piraeus, the ancient 
 port of Athens. 
 
 I awoke when the engine stopped, and got up. 
 At five, Kohn, S , and I set off together, hav 
 ing taken a guide, to spend the day in Athens, as 
 the steamer did not sail until the next morning at 
 six. It was curious to find yourself for the first 
 time surrounded by Greeks, in their handsome but 
 effeminate-looking dresses, scarlet or blue jackets, 
 white petticoats, leggings, and fancy caps. Our 
 guide proved honest, which does not often happen, 
 as the national character is anything but high in 
 
90 
 
 that respect. Landing at the Piraeus, we bargained 
 with a coachman to take us to Athens, and bring 
 us back in the evening, the distance being five 
 miles each way. Off we went, over dirty roads, and 
 soon came in sight of the Acropolis and Parthenon. 
 Before entering Athens, we decided to see as much 
 as possible before breakfast, whilst moderately cool. 
 Went first to the Temple of Theseus, which, built 
 465 years before Christ, is still perfect; its just 
 proportions, situation, &c., constitute it one of the 
 finest monuments in the world ; it is now used as 
 a museum, and filled with statues and inscriptions. 
 Hence we went to four caves in the rock, used as 
 prisons one of them is singular, and formerly the 
 only access was by a hole in the vault above. Here 
 the great philosopher of antiquity drank the fatal 
 cup of hemlock. We then went to the Areopagus, 
 where once stood the seats of justice, and all the 
 legal state of the Republic of which no remains 
 now exist, beyond a few steps cut in the solid rock. 
 Here we stood on that spot, sacred in the history 
 of our religion, where, standing on Mars Hill, the 
 Apostle Paul preached to the Athenians, of that 
 unknown God in whose honour he had found an 
 altar erected in their city. We then quietly walked 
 to the summit of the Acropolis, and saw those 
 architectural remains which are the wonder of the 
 world. On entering, you wind among old walls, 
 which formed the fortress erected by the Turks, 
 and pass the remains of a fine theatre. At last 
 
91 
 
 you approach the pile of temples, which have ever 
 been the glory of Athens the Propylaea, with its 
 marble stairs, and noble pillars, erected at the time 
 of the highest power of Athens, and forming the 
 stately entrance to the shrine of Minerva, the pre 
 siding goddess of this once proud and powerful 
 state. 
 
 The remains of the Parthenon are familiar from 
 the many representations of them ; but no picture 
 can give an idea of the effect produced by the per 
 fect symmetry of all the parts. The ruins of Home 
 are vast in extent, but produce nothing at all 
 when compared in effect to the Parthenon. In the 
 Eternal City the ruins are nearly all of brick the 
 marble having been stripped off. Here the whole 
 building is marble, and although much has been 
 destroyed by the Turks, sufficient remains to give 
 you an idea of what it must have been in its days of 
 splendour. On one side of the Parthenon is the 
 Erechtheum, and on the other, a Temple dedicated 
 to Victory : it is only a small one, but very beauti 
 ful. There is a portico to the Temple of Minerva 
 Polias or Erechtheum, supported by caryatides 
 very fine indeed. There is a Church in London, 
 with a similar porch or portico, near the railway, 
 which I dare say you will remember. 
 
 After as long a stay at the Acropolis as our time 
 would permit, and with many a longing glance 
 behind, we descended its time-honoured and time- 
 worn way, and hastened to an hotel to breakfast, as 
 
92 
 
 it was then near ten. We passed through Athens, 
 and a strange town it is. Wooden houses and 
 shops, more like booths, with their masters sitting 
 cross-legged; no pavement, all filth. In the 
 Tower of the Winds is an ancient monument, on 
 the old gate of the Agora, or Market Place, near 
 which stands a pillar erected by Hadrian, on which 
 the prices of provisions are written, and now nearly 
 as legible as when first inscribed. 
 
 At our hotel we descended into a cool dining 
 room, and had a good breakfast, which reconciled 
 us considerably. After our meal, we went to see 
 the Temple of Jupiter Olympus, of which noble 
 structure only a few magnificent columns remain. 
 Here is a great cafe, where we sat a little, and for 
 the first time smoked the narghilley or Persian pipe. 
 Hence we had a noble view, the Bay of Athens, 
 with the Piraeus, Salamis, where the Persian fleet 
 was destroyed by the Athenians ; Mount Hymettus, 
 celebrated now as in times of old, for its bees and 
 honey. * * Mount Pentelicus, in which are the 
 quarries of white marble, whence the people drew 
 their stone, and when brought out into form by 
 the surpassing skill of their architects, constitute 
 now the best proof of how great a people they must 
 have then been. We then descended to the banks 
 of the Ilissus, now but a small stream, easily 
 crossed on foot over one or two stepping stones. 
 There are the remains of a bridge over it, which 
 led to the Stadium, where races were held ; of 
 
93 
 
 that building very little now remains. We then 
 went back to the hotel, well tired and exhausted 
 by the heat, and lay down on sofas for an hour, 
 then took a coach and went to the Observatory, 
 which has been built and furnished by a German 
 Baron ; it is finely situated. Thence to the Pnyx, 
 where the orators used to deliver their speeches, 
 and from the Bema on which Demosthenes has 
 oft thundered his denunciations. We then came 
 back to dinner about four, and after dinner went to 
 the palace to see the king, who generally rides out 
 every afternoon. When we got there, we found a 
 few shabby soldiers drawn out in parade, and the 
 royal carriage, open, with four horses. Near the 
 gate a crowd of eight old women, three boys, and 
 two men. The women had petitions in their 
 hands, which they gave to an officer at the gate, 
 for presentation. In a short time the king and 
 queen got into the carriage, he in the Greek cos 
 tume, looking particularly foolish in such a fancy 
 dress, the queen in deep mourning, rather pretty. 
 Their majesties bowed to us en passant a whirl of 
 dust, and it was over. At a cafe we got some 
 Turkish coffee ; it is good, but the curiosity of it is, 
 the grounds are not taken out ; you let it stand, and 
 then drink what remains, which is very little, as the 
 cups are small. The cups stand in small brazen 
 cups, similar to an egg cup. At dark we set off to 
 the Piraeus, and returned on board ship, and, after 
 a little talk, went to bed well tired. * * * * 
 
94 
 
 The next day we were sailing among the islands of 
 the Archipelago, and early on Friday morning 
 dropped anchor at Smyrna. Up again early, 
 took a Smyrna Jew for a guide, and a boat 
 soon landed us in Asia. The first view of an 
 oriental town is very striking. The great number 
 of cemeteries every where scattered about, with their 
 cypress trees, mingled with the various coloured 
 buildings, minarets, and mosques, tapering up on 
 high ; the wooden houses ; the gay colours of Asiatic 
 costume, all constitute a curious tout ensemble. But 
 near land, grim dirt, filth, stenches, meet you on all 
 hands; then you see that this gay scene is only lath 
 and plaster ; dogs, in countless numbers, here, in 
 Athens, in Constantinople, even in Italy, are the 
 only official scavengers, eating up all the offal of the 
 streets. We went to a cafe, and got a little coffee, 
 ordered breakfast for twelve o clock, and sallied 
 out on horseback. We went first to the place 
 where the camels are assembled, and saw several 
 that had arrived the day before from Persia. How 
 they groaned and cried, and looked anything but 
 the patient creatures we believe them to be ! 
 In the course of the day we saw a great many more 
 in a khan yard. We met some Turkish women, all 
 veiled ; the veil comes over the forehead, but not 
 the eyes, a bandage is brought up over the mouth to 
 the end of the nose ; they are not now nearly so 
 strict as formerly. Their slippers are yellow, 
 with overshoes, these drop at the heel every step 
 
95 
 
 they take, which gives them a clumsy, shuffling gait. 
 Turks in turbans, soldiers, Greeks, Armenians, 
 Jews, all separated in their different quarters, but 
 mingling in the affairs of life. "We rode up a highish 
 hill, with the ruins of a castle on the top, whence 
 we had a fine view over the town and bay. Keturn- 
 ing through the cemeteries, which are singular 
 enough, stones with the turban cut on the top, or 
 rather, I should say, the tops of the stones were in 
 the form of turbans; we entered the bazaars, 
 which are certainly the most curious and original 
 places of business I ever saw. Fancy a network 
 of streets, formed entirely of wooden booths, with 
 projecting roofs, sufficient to cover any person 
 standing in front to purchase or what not. From 
 each side slight rafters are thrown across, and thus 
 the whole street is more or less covered in the 
 floor of each shop is about two feet above the road, 
 and covered either with a carpet or a mat, on which 
 the proprietor is seated. Around him, on shelves, 
 are his various wares. In Smyrna the bazaars are 
 no great things, interesting only as being the first 
 seen. We then went to the cafe or coffee-house, 
 and in real Turkish style, legs crossed on a raised 
 divan, smoked our pipes, and looked profoundly 
 wise ; our attendants were slaves, the property, of 
 course, of the master of the establishment. We 
 wondered what they would say in Manchester, to 
 see us thus, in real Eastern state. In the same 
 place were two or three sage-looking Turks, who, in 
 
96 
 
 their hearts, I doubt not, felt a proper contempt for 
 us as Franks or infidels, and whose conversation, if 
 it can be so called, consisted of a few wise nods, 
 which are easily made, and do not cost the true 
 believer any of his precious breath. After our 
 breakfast, we visited a silk manufactory, where they 
 wound the silk from the cocoons. In one shed 
 there were 150 girls employed; all, or nearly so, 
 Smyrniote Greeks, and among them some few of 
 the most beautiful faces you can imagine, all sing 
 ing, and appearing to be happy and contented. 
 
 Soon after this we returned to our floating home, 
 and at four o clock steamed out of Smyrna. * * 
 The next morning (Saturday), we entered the Dar 
 danelles, and remained at anchor, in accordance 
 with Turkish regulations, for some hours. No 
 vessel is allowed to enter the Straits in the night at 
 all. We passed the famed castles, with their big 
 guns, but not near enough to make much out of 
 them. We had on board an English gentleman 
 and two young men travelling with him. His name 
 
 was G , had been private secretary to the late 
 
 Dowager Queen Adelaide. He made himself 
 extremely agreeable. Soon after dinner found us 
 in the Sea of Marmora, which was rather rough. 
 On Sunday morning we got up a little after four, 
 to catch the first view of Constantinople. Gradu 
 ally its minarets and mosques came in sight; about 
 seven we cast anchor in the far-famed Golden Horn, 
 after a pleasant voyage of eight days from Sicily. 
 
97 
 
 Certainly the first view of the gorgeous capital of 
 the East is most magnificent. As you approach, 
 you have the Bosphorus before you, with Asia on 
 one side and Europe on the other. The seraglio, 
 close on your left-hand, with its palaces and gardens ; 
 rounding the extreme point of which you enter the 
 Horn, and Constantinople presents itself to your view. 
 On your left Stamboul; on your right Galata, Pera, 
 and Tophane. On each side the houses rise one 
 above the other, intermingled with the cypress trees 
 and gardens. The shipping, the Turkish fleet, all 
 contribute to form a scene unrivalled in the world. 
 When you land, the charm is broken ; tumble-down 
 wooden houses, unpaved lanes, dogs, dirt, bad 
 smells all this has been said a hundred times. I 
 fear you will think I merely echo what I have read, 
 but I assure you it is no fable to say that this is 
 the handsomest and the most unsightly city in the 
 universe. I have seen many bad pavements since 
 I left England, but here the very worst is exceeded. 
 Then the dogs ; you cannot go ten yards without 
 seeing twenty or thirty on a heap of offal. At night 
 their noises are horrible, squealing, crying, barking, 
 howling, and fighting, and sleeping under your feet 
 all day. Three or four years ago 40,000 dogs were 
 poisoned, what the numbers are now no one can 
 tell. Each set of dogs is confined to its own 
 quarter, and woe to the unhappy wretch that ven 
 tures on its neighbour s ground, it is fortunate if 
 it gets back with a torn skin only. The streets give 
 
you the idea that you are always going a near cut, 
 through back lanes, and hope soon to come into 
 the main thoroughfares, but in reality you are in 
 the chief ways all the time. At night there are no 
 lamps in the streets, which, being full of holes, dirt, 
 and dogs, are dangerous enough ; by law you are 
 obliged to carry a lantern ; if the police should find 
 you without they can take you up as a thief, for 
 they say an honest man will want to see his way, 
 and none but a thief will go without a light. These 
 lanterns are made of paper, and squeeze up into a 
 small compass, and very odd it* seems to walk out 
 with them. The watchmen have sticks with iron 
 ends, which they strike on the stones as they walk 
 along, to warn the evil-doer of their approach. For 
 your satisfaction, I will say our hotel is of stone, 
 and therefore no danger of fire ; the outside 
 shutters and doors are of iron, to prevent incen 
 diarism. Few indeed are the stone buildings 
 except mosques ; the houses are wooden frames, 
 lined with boards, and outside covered with lath 
 and plaster, painted. 
 
 We got our luggage through the custom-house 
 
 without much trouble : S knew the director, 
 
 who came and passed us directly. Our trunks, &c., 
 being placed on the backs of the hamals or porters, 
 we mounted the hill to our hotel, and got some 
 breakfast ; after which we took a servant, whom we 
 engaged during our stay as guide and dragoman, 
 and, going down to the sea, got into a caique, 
 
99 
 
 very light and tickle. Of the caiques, or boats, 
 80,000 ply for hire in the Golden Horn. Our boat 
 man took us up the Horn nearly to the further 
 extremity. We landed, and walked up a hill, 
 passing several burial places of Sultans and great 
 people. Looking through a window, we saw two 
 coffins of the Sultan s two brothers, who were both 
 kindly strangled, to prevent them troubling the 
 succession. Some of the tombs were very hand 
 some, the dark cypress trees giving a fine appearance 
 to the whole. We mounted higher, till we came 
 to another cemetery, from which we had a fine view 
 over the town and Golden Horn. We met two 
 funerals of women, which we followed, but were 
 not allowed to approach the grave. The bodies 
 were in wooden coffins : one, the corpse of a rich, 
 the other, that of a poor woman. The body of the 
 latter was taken out of the coffin, and placed in the 
 grave : the former was able to afford the luxury of 
 a coffin. Then, a great number of Turks, who 
 were attending the funeral, sat round, all muttering 
 prayers, in a sing- song tone. The earth was 
 shoveled in, and water poured over it, to settle the 
 ground, and prevent the dogs tearing it up. Then 
 came the Mufti to the side of the grave, and all 
 except ourselves went away out of sight. The 
 priest then began his prayers, standing alone, in 
 which, I believe, he praises the dead, and says he 
 or she is sure of Paradise. When they arrive at the 
 gate of heaven, they must demand admission, and 
 
100 
 
 give the piece of money which the corpse has in 
 one hand ; and, if refused with that, throw at the 
 angel s head the stone which is in the other. We 
 had had a very high wind all day, which ended 
 in heavy rain. When we arrived at Constan 
 tinople, there had been a great drought, no rain 
 for four months : the people were suffering from 
 want of water; and the crops were in danger of 
 destruction. It rained the whole of Monday, and 
 such rain : the streets became rivers, and filthy 
 beyond measure. 
 
 We set off this morning to the bazaars, which 
 are indeed curious. They are mostly vaulted build 
 ings, and the stages of the dealers are arranged on 
 each side. Our entrance lay through the Egyptian 
 Bazaar ; here they sell paints, spices, colours, nay, 
 in short, all that comes from Egypt. Each article 
 will be found in its own department, one being for 
 jewellery, another for shoes and slippers, one for 
 silks, embroidery, arms, and so on. There were 
 beautiful Persian shawls, scarfs, and stuffs from 
 India, and plenty of Manchester calico. As we 
 could do nothing else for rain, we stopped there 
 all day, and sat bargaining with Turks, sitting on 
 their mats. We were offered pipes and coffee. 
 
 Tuesday, still raining ; in the morning we went 
 again to the bazaar. At one o clock we visited the 
 convent of the Dancing Dervishes, to see their 
 performance. The entrance was through a nice 
 court yard, and at the porch we were made to pull 
 
101 
 
 our boots off; then, entering a large room, in form 
 a polygon, we took our places in a gallery, which 
 runs all round the bottom part ; over this there is 
 another gallery, the centre being reserved for the 
 dervishes, of whom there were in all twenty- one. 
 The chief sat on a mat facing them, and in the 
 upper gallery two or three more were singing or 
 droning out some service, in which the chief also 
 took part; they then marched round the enclosure, 
 and bowed twice to the chief s seat, and once when 
 opposite to it ; this was done three times, and they 
 re- seated themselves ; then a drum beat, and they 
 all fell flat on their faces, then got up, their 
 cloaks were taken off and you saw their dress, a 
 white petticoat and body. The extraordinary music 
 continued, each one walked past the superior, made 
 him a bow, and commenced turning round, gra 
 dually extending his arms as he became more 
 excited : at last all were in motion except the superior. 
 The second in command walked among them, so 
 that they did not touch him or one another. There 
 were also four neophytes, all twisting round and 
 round the room, exactly like slow waltzing. This 
 continued about three-quarters of an hour, with 
 short intervals of rest. At the end, the second in 
 authority made a long prayer, in which you fre 
 quently heard "Allah," "Mahomet." When this 
 was finished, each one of them kissed the hand of 
 the chief and departed. Some of them looked sad 
 scamps. * * * * 
 
102 
 MALTA, June 2Ist, 1851. 
 
 DEAR MAMA, 
 
 * * * WELL, in my last letter I 
 
 told you all our proceedings up to the date thereof. 
 Fifth, in the morning still raining, we made a 
 desperate resolve, and went to a Turkish Bath. 
 Entering a large circular hall, surrounded with 
 galleries, on which are beds and divans, we each, 
 with a guide, were taken into a place railed off, and 
 undressed. A person attended us, and wrapped a 
 large cloth round us, and another over our shoulders, 
 put us on a pair of large pattens, and then con 
 ducted us across the hall to a small door, through 
 which we passed into a marble-floored vault, lighted 
 from the top. The heat of this room is consider 
 able ; and, being led to couches placed on the 
 floor, we were left to sweat. They brought us pipes 
 and coffee. Various little demons hovered about, 
 nearly naked, waiting to commence operations. 
 In about half-an-hour we were pronounced in a 
 proper state, and were taken into another hall, 
 the temperature about three times the heat of the 
 first, and were laid down on a large marble slab. 
 In a few minutes the perspiration was pouring off 
 me ; and then a boy began to pound my arms, and 
 legs, and chest ; then turned me over, and pounded 
 away at my breast; tried to crack all my joints, 
 but did not succeed. I was then conducted into a 
 
103 
 
 small room, opening out of this hall, where there 
 were taps of hot and cold water, and large marble 
 basins. I lay down, and he scrubbed me over with 
 a rough glove, not any water, almost peeling my skin 
 off, then dashed a lot of tepid water over me ; and 
 bringing a large basin, with soap, warm water, and 
 a sort of wisp of hemp, he made an immense 
 lather, and soaped me all over, from head to foot ; 
 then, dashing a quantity of water over me, it 
 was finished. Our wet cloths or towels were then 
 exchanged for dry ones. One was fitted round our 
 heads like a turban ; and then we were led back to 
 the first room, and each placed on couches, with 
 pillows, more clean dry cloths thrown over us, pipes 
 brought, and then left in a dreamy, pleasant state 
 for nearly an hour, three hours and a half in the 
 bath. I never was so clean in my life : I felt light, 
 in good spirits, and altogether different. 
 
 We then went to the convent of the Howling 
 Dervishes, a very extraordinary exhibition, impos 
 sible to describe, owing to the contortions of the 
 body, and the movements into which they threw 
 themselves. They howled, and sang, and shouted, 
 and swayed backward and forward, shook every 
 joint for near three hours. The chief priest per 
 formed cures on poor sick people, touched their 
 eyes, and for any disease of the body the patient 
 lay down before him. He first passed his foot over 
 them, and then stood upon them; even little 
 children he treated in the same manner. 
 
104 
 
 On Friday morning we crossed to Scutari again, 
 to see the Sultan go to mosque ; a guard was drawn 
 up; and in a short time the magnificent caique, with 
 the Sultan, came up, and he landed. The Light of 
 the World, the Brother of the Sun, and all the rest 
 of it, stood before us. Abdul Medjid is a young man 
 about 28, and has the appearance of 50. He 
 mounted a noble Arab steed, the trappings of which 
 were entirely covered with diamonds, preceded by his 
 great officers of state, and followed by the black 
 eunuchs. He rode slowly past us we had a good 
 view of him ; his horse was sent back, so we looked 
 at the trappings closely. Ourselves and the Eng 
 lishmen I before mentioned, constituted the crowd 
 on the occasion. 
 
 After this we took our caique up the Bos- 
 phorus, to the Sweet Waters of Asia, which is a 
 favourite fashionable resort on Friday afternoons, 
 for the Turkish ladies. As we passed along the 
 shore, and by the over-hanging houses, we heard 
 many a laugh from behind the lattice-work 
 of the women s apartments, and caught a few 
 glances of faces quickly withdrawn. Passing up a 
 pretty stream, we landed near a promenade, and 
 passed many Turks smoking and chatting. We 
 went on and saw the ladies, some sitting smoking 
 long pipes, others walking or riding in coaches ; in 
 a short time two or three policemen told us we 
 must remove to a greater distance, to the men s 
 division, as the men and the women are not allowed 
 
105 
 
 to meet together. It was in a pretty valley ; a bright 
 day, and clear sky, all united to render it a pleasing 
 scene. We continued our walk, and came to 
 another part of the same general rendezvous, but 
 by the side of the Bosphorus. The fashion is for 
 the ladies to go at three to the first part, and at 
 four to the other. After this we returned, having 
 spent a very pleasant day. In walking about Stam- 
 boul, in the evening, we saw a mosque of pigeons, 
 very curious, thousands of them fed at the expense 
 of pious people, who believe that the souls of 
 departed Mussulmans inhabit the bodies of these 
 impudent birds. 
 
 Sunday, rain; but in the intervals of the showers 
 visited two or three mosques, including that of 
 Sulieman the Magnificent. Monday, fine ; and 
 the weather continued so during the remainder 
 of our stay. The Seraglio and Mosque of Santa 
 Sophia require a firman, for which you pay 
 10. ; several persons join at one ; and it is 
 generally obtained from a valet- de-place, who 
 makes a good profit. Perhaps twenty people go 
 together, and he charges them 1. each. While we 
 were there it was not the season, and few strangers 
 in Constantinople. We, however, visited the Sul 
 tan s palace on the Bosphorus, the Sultan s general 
 residence, but he is away at another place in Asia. 
 It is a fine wooden building, containing fine halls; 
 the furniture in the Eastern style; beautiful ball 
 rooms and divans. We saw the harem, of course 
 
106 
 
 empty. The ladies having a penchant for musical 
 clocks, the rooms were full of them. The gardens 
 are laid out with great taste, the walks being 
 covered with small sea-shells, laid on thick : your 
 feet sink without soiling your shoes. 
 
 After this we proceeded in a three-oared caique 
 up the Bosphorus, nine miles to Buyukdereh, and 
 landed on the Asiatic side, and mounted the 
 Giant s Mountain, from whence we had a magnifi 
 cent view the Bosphorus winding along at our 
 feet, and before us its termination in the Black 
 Sea, the waters of which stretched out on the far 
 horizon. We dined at Buyukdereh, which is a 
 favourite summer residence of the different ambas 
 sadors and rich people. Returning by moonlight 
 down the Bosphorus, landed at Tophane, when we 
 were immediately attacked by about sixty dogs, who 
 set on us from all sides, and with whom we had a 
 regular battle. Being well armed with heavy sticks, 
 sent many of our canine adversaries howling away, 
 with damaged legs and heads : if you show fear, 
 they are brave; but turn on them, they are sad 
 cowards : they only attack Franks, never any one 
 wearing the fez. 
 
 The next day we saw some of the antiquities, the 
 great cistern of Constantino, now called the Bin- 
 derit, or the thousand- and- one columns. Beyond 
 the outer courts of Santa Sophia, as I have said, 
 we could not be admitted without a firman. We 
 walked through the slave market, but did not stay 
 
107 
 
 long, only a few poor black girls for sale ; some 
 were merry, but others very, very sad. 
 
 Next day went into some mosques, and, as 
 Charles Matthews says, in " Used up," " nothing" 
 there literally ; the floors covered with matting, an 
 immense number of large lamps, with small ones, 
 used for illuminations, hanging about seven feet 
 high from the ground. No pictures, no altars, no 
 nothing. I must say I was disappointed. Santa 
 Sophia is exactly the same, only larger, and the 
 walls have some good mosaics in them. From 
 here to the Sublime Porte ; saw first the gardens 
 of the Seraglio. Nothing extraordinary. The 
 rooms (outside) where the slave girls belonging to 
 the Sultan are kept; high walls round, closed 
 jalousies, no right to approach. Our next visit was 
 to the stables. Such Arab steeds ! Oh dear, I 
 should have liked one. There was a grey Arab 
 to sell, he was trotted out for us ; he really was 
 handsome. A Circassian mounted him, one of the 
 most splendid riders I ever saw. If I could have 
 put that horse in a balloon, and sent him home, I 
 should have bought him. We then went to the 
 kitchen, where they were busy dishing up dinners 
 for the ladies and officers of the household, of 
 whom many hundreds live in the Seraglio. It is a 
 kitchen indeed, great furnaces full of pots and 
 pans 1 Our dragoman had a friend here in the 
 chief cook, who brought us some paste, of which 
 the moon-faced beauties devour great quantities. 
 
108 
 
 It is a paste rolled out thin, on paper, drenched 
 with pots of syrup, just baked crisp, and is most 
 delicious : we eat a great deal of it. We then 
 entered the gate, or Sublime Porte, which is 
 guarded by frightful white eunuchs, and went into 
 their apartment, close to the door leading to those 
 secret chambers which no man except the Sultan 
 ever enters. We bought some real pastiles of the 
 Seraglio, which are used to perfume the royal apart 
 ments ; they are too musky for my taste, but I 
 thought you should have some real, if any. 
 
 On Thursday morning, June 12th, we took 
 another bath, and at seven o clock on board the 
 French steamer Bosphorus, bid adieu to the 
 mosques, minarets, the picturesque town of Stam- 
 boul, the Golden Horn, and the shores of the beau 
 tiful Bosphorus, after a short stay, it is true, but 
 twelve days never to be forgotten ; twelve days of 
 new impressions, of a character entirely different to 
 any I had before experienced. 
 
 The Turks are a dignified, courteous people, and, 
 I doubt not, look down upon the Franks as an 
 inferior race, represented as the latter are in 
 Constantinople by Armenians and Greeks, than 
 whom greater rascals or cheats do not exist in the 
 world; but, being now active and pushing, and 
 less scrupulous, have monopolized most part of the 
 traffic in their own hands, and try their best to 
 cheat both Turk and Christian ! 
 
 At our hotel we had a Captain S , who is in 
 
109 
 
 the Turkish service, having been sent at the 
 request of the Ottoman Porte by the English 
 government, to discipline the Turkish navy. He 
 is the second in command of the fleet and harbour, 
 though really first, as nothing is done without his 
 sanction ; the Turkish chief admiral submits, of 
 
 course, to him as the sailor. S s Turkish title 
 
 (for he is a Pasha of three tails) is, Mushava Pasha! 
 
 At Smyrna we landed, and dined with Mr. 
 
 M . After dinner, we strolled into the slave 
 
 market, and saw such a funny little black boy, in 
 a stone trough of water, washing himself, and 
 grinning at us : he was the blackest lad I had 
 ever seen : about ten years old. He put his little 
 paw out, and I gave him a trifle. Poor little fellow, 
 he was delighted ! they wanted <15. for him. 
 I felt a fancy to buy him, as a page for you. What 
 would you have thought about it ? 
 
 Sunday morning we arrived at Syra, where we 
 had to perform quarantine. Here we remained 
 twenty- two hours, in an open bay, with a heavy 
 swell. Our steam-boat was a small one : we were 
 knocked about immensely, which sent Kohn to bed, 
 ill. Next morning at five, we were all summoned 
 on deck. The doctor was in a little boat on one 
 side, bobbing about. He looked at us all from 
 his boat, said we looked healthy, and gave us 
 pratique. At 10, we steamed away again, arriving 
 here on Wednesday, the 4th, at six in the evening, 
 and went to the Clarence Hotel again. * * * 
 
LETTERS FROM AMERICA. 
 
 Saturday, August 29/, 1857. 
 
 ON BOARD THE " ASIA." 
 
 MY DEAR MAMMA, 
 
 IT is a great pleasure to be able to com 
 mence writing a letter, for after so many days 
 almost devoid of occupation, one gladly seizes the 
 first moment that it is really practicable to sit down 
 and hold a peri with any chance of success. Look 
 ing forward, naturally, to an agreeable summer 
 passage, with smooth seas, bright skies, and favour 
 ing breezes, I could scarcely expect to enjoy one of 
 the worst trips, so far as weather is concerned, 
 that has been made at this season of the year for 
 some time. Yesterday the sea calmed down, and 
 to-day we have but little motion. But I will not 
 anticipate, and will therefore begin my story from 
 the beginning. I dare say Lawrence would give 
 you a full, true, and most particular account of our 
 progress from the Adelphi to the Pier, and the 
 mustering of the passengers on the tender Satellite, 
 
 which conveyed us to the Asia. After the mails 
 H 
 
114 
 
 were received, our guns were fired, and away we 
 went. As we rounded the well-known light-house, 
 and got a mile or two out, we met the Great Britain 
 coming in from Australia, five weeks beyond her 
 time. Instead of steaming along down the Welsh 
 coast, the usual route, we took the course called 
 by nautical men " north about," and in the even 
 ing came in sight, and passed pretty close to the 
 south end of the Isle of Man, and I have not seen 
 any land since then ; one eternal circle of sea and 
 sky has been round us ever since. It takes a day 
 or two to settle down, and find people out, and make 
 yourself at home. In a general way, Saturday and 
 Sunday were both fine days sea increasing a little 
 towards Sunday evening but two clear days enable 
 you to see what kind of travelling companions you 
 
 have got. B and I got seats together at dinner, 
 
 and next to me I found an extremely gentlemanly 
 young man, named Rotherham, and Charles Mat 
 thews, who is a favourite with every one. We next 
 became acquainted with a Mr. Donough, who is 
 going out as English Consul to Buffalo, also a great 
 success. A German gentleman introduced himself 
 to me, whose friends I had met in Manchester ; he 
 had heard that I was going out. There is, moreover, 
 
 a representative of D y s house, a very agreeable 
 
 man, so that we make quite a party. We have also 
 a theatrical party on board, half-a-dozen ballet girls 
 and prima donna, with Italian dancers and singers, 
 going on speculation to New York and Philadelphia, 
 
115 
 
 a few Americans, and some Scotchmen, who have 
 lived long in the New World, one has travelled a good 
 deal in Mexico, California, and such wild countries, 
 where the rifle and revolver are necessaries of life. 
 
 We have all nations on board, but it is really 
 astonishing how soon you find out those you think 
 will suit you, and form a set to yourselves. We 
 had lunch directly we got rid of the mail-boat, and 
 were fairly on our course, about half-past twelve ; 
 at four we dined, tea at half-past seven, about ten 
 broiled bones. I thought it was too good to last, 
 but we kept on in the same way on Sunday, and I 
 began to believe the Atlantic was a great humbug, 
 and a voyage nothing at all. Monday wofully 
 undeceived me ; pitching and rolling, a heavy sea, 
 and strong head-wind kept me in my berth almost 
 all day ; not sick, but all the sensations of sickness, 
 without any relief. I got up to tea, but went down 
 again almost immediately. Tuesday was rather 
 better, and I managed to keep on my legs all day, 
 but could not eat. In the afternoon we met two 
 vessels, and made and answered some questions by 
 means of the signal flags. 
 
 Wednesday morning I found I could not get up, 
 and of that day I know little except the kind 
 attempts of my bed- steward to get me something I 
 could eat, but all in vain. 
 
 Thursday morning, I tried to get up, and with 
 difficulty succeeded, and got a morsel of breakfast, 
 and began to hope. Standing by the funnel, I saw 
 
116 
 
 ahead, the clouds driving on the water, and in five 
 minutes we experienced a white squall ; the sea 
 lashed up to a perfect fury, the waves dashing over 
 the ship, drenching every one and everything. I could 
 not stand this long, and was soon driven below to the 
 refuge of my weary berth, where the hours dragged 
 slowly on till Friday morning, when I found the 
 sea subsiding, the sky clear, and I managed to eat 
 something, for I assure you I was nearly famished, 
 and looking ill and thin. The day was a great 
 success, and I turned in at half-past eleven, unfor 
 tunately, for had I staid half an hour longer, I 
 should have seen the rockets and signals made 
 between our ship and another steamer, supposed 
 to be the New York, from New York to Liverpool. 
 This morning I found we were in a fog, owing to 
 our approaching the Bank of Newfoundland, and 
 the Gulf Stream. The whistle has been blowing 
 nearly all day, to warn any vessels that a steamer is 
 approaching. This is the most dangerous part of 
 the voyage, and more accidents occur from fogs 
 than any other cause, when the necessary precau 
 tions are neglected. The captain has been on the 
 bridge all day, and a very sharp look-out is kept. 
 The sound of the whistle is unearthly and unplea 
 sant, and we shall be glad to get away from this 
 particular portion of our course. To-morrow we 
 hope to see Cape Race, and then we steer south 
 along the coast, so we expect smooth water, with a 
 blue sky overhead. I find Captain L a very 
 
nr 
 
 pleasant man ; he has been very polite, but is too 
 much occupied with his ship to have much to do 
 with the passengers, which is as it ought to be. 
 After all, it is monotonous work, day after day the 
 same, and we shall all be glad, about next Thursday, 
 to see New York. At noon each day the captain 
 takes his observation of the sun, and makes it 
 noon. You must understand that we are sailing 
 westward, therefore losing time ; our day, from 
 apparent noon one day to apparent noon the 
 next being longer, according to the rate of sailing, 
 than if we remained fixed in one place, the total 
 difference in time between Greenwich and New 
 York, is five hours twenty minutes, and as we 
 are sailing from seven to eight degrees of longitude 
 a day, we are making our day nearly half an hour 
 longer, that is 24 J hours to the day. From noon 
 on Saturday, when we sailed, to noon on Sunday, we 
 made 266 miles ; to Monday, at noon, 240; noon on 
 Tuesday, 252 ; Wednesday, owing to the weather, 
 it fell to 230 ; Thursday, 242 ; noon, on Friday, 
 only 221 ; and to-day, Saturday, we ran 262; that 
 makes 1,713 miles of our 3,030. These distances 
 are all in nautical miles, and give an average of ten 
 miles an hour for the 24 hours of our day. Our 
 time, as I now write, is two o clock, four bells 
 having just struck, and as my watch is Manchester 
 time, being quarter-past five, we have made three 
 hours and a quarter of our westing. Now I shall 
 close, and go on deck. 
 
118 
 
 Tuesday afternoon, September 1st : I left off 
 writing on Saturday, and we were all glad to enjoy 
 a really fine day in spite of the fog, which cleared 
 in the evening, as it did on Friday evening, on 
 both which nights we enjoyed a magnificent view 
 of the Aurora Borealis; on Saturday evening it 
 was most beautiful a perfect arch across the 
 northern sky, the brilliant light running into the 
 most extravagant forms, ever changing in shape as 
 well as intensity, and shooting its rays almost to 
 the zenith ; it never quite reached the horizon, but 
 made darts down towards it, as though trying to 
 reach the sea line. We remained watching it 
 until midnight, and had to turn in all in the dark, 
 all lights on board being extinguished at twelve 
 o clock. 
 
 Sunday, another day of dreary, wretched fog, 
 with a heavy sea, and the whistle going all day, 
 sounding for about five seconds every minute ; the 
 effect is most unpleasant, as it makes you perfectly 
 nervous and irritable. I could get no breakfast, 
 but managed to attend service in the cabin, where 
 prayers were read very well and impressively by the 
 surgeon of the ship, the captain being on deck 
 owing to the fog. I got better as the day wore on, 
 but we were all wet, our clothes soaked through 
 with the dense and all-penetrating fog, which again 
 cleared off about midnight ; we were glad to get 
 rid of the whistle, and have a good night s rest. 
 During this part of the voyage, the captain s duties 
 
119 
 
 and anxieties are very great; he never had his 
 clothes off for three days and nights, almost with 
 out sleep, and constantly on the bridge, looking out. 
 To shew how alert they are, some one in the fore- 
 cabin, without any intention of producing an effect, 
 was imitating the sound of a horn ; the captain 
 heard it; had it been repeated the ship would have 
 immediately been stopped, lest it might have been 
 a signal from some vessel in our track, as we were 
 then crossing what is called the St. Lawrence track, 
 where so many vessels are constantly passing. In 
 spite of the fog and the heavy sea, we ran from 
 Saturday noon to Sunday noon 279 miles. 
 
 Monday morning commenced with some little 
 rain, but it cleared off, and the sea began to go 
 down, and the whole day was most delightful. In 
 the evening, the sailors did some gymnastics, and 
 one mounted on a donkey. This animal curiosity 
 was covered with some kind of imitation skin, 
 with an imitation donkey s head, and went pranc 
 ing and kicking about. After this they ran steeple 
 chases on all fours, over one another s backs, and 
 some ropes stretched on deck. We made a collec 
 tion for them, and got about j3., which no doubt 
 they will spend in grog in New York. They then 
 sang some sea songs and nigger melodies, very well 
 indeed. We all then went into the forecastle, and 
 having some singers amongst us, we kept it up 
 with much joviality until late. People are now all 
 getting most friendly together, and are more like a 
 
120 
 
 large party at some watering-place, than travellers 
 on a long voyage. We have of course had one 
 general row. At first, the weather was so stormy, that 
 the fore-cabin passengers, who have no right abaft 
 the crank hatches, were allowed to come on the 
 saloon deck, for the benefit of the fresh air, and to 
 sit in the capstan gallery when it rained, and 
 as some of them were the poor ballet girls, a stern 
 Yankee, with two most ugly and disagreeable 
 daughters, who never went on deck, joined with 
 three other passengers, whom we have christened 
 " the conspirators," complained to the captain, who, 
 of course, had no other choice than to order them 
 to be kept forward, where they have been all stewed 
 up in a close cabin, instead of being able to enjoy 
 a little fresh air on deck, the portion of deck near 
 their cabin being exposed to every sea that dashes 
 over the ship, and in consequence they were all 
 very seasick again but the purity of the Yankee 
 damsels was preserved from any contact with 
 second-class passengers. We have all taken their 
 part, and cut " the conspirators " dead. Some of 
 them say they shall write to the New York papers. 
 Let them ; they will get well laughed at. 
 
 From noon on Sunday to noon yesterday we 
 made 270 miles ; it is now nearly noon again, so 
 we must be within 500 miles of New York. We 
 have seen no land as yet, having passed Cape Race 
 in the fog. To-day the weather is truly magnifi 
 cent, a smooth sea, and a most brilliant sky. 
 
121 
 
 We are beginning to fancy we shall be sorry to 
 part from the ship and from one another. We 
 have been watching shoals of porpoises rolling and 
 
 jumping out of the water ; B said he saw some 
 
 flying fish, but being an Irishman, we did not be 
 lieve him. You have no idea how intimate we all 
 get together. I do not think, under all circum 
 stances, we could have accidentally met a pleasanter 
 party ; see all at dinner, laughing and talking like 
 a large table d hote company, and at night the candles 
 are lighted down the tables, with parties at whist or 
 chess, or reading or talking, you would imagine 
 yourself at an hotel. The table is well provided ; 
 of course the cooking is not equal to the Hotel de 
 Prince, but it is wonderfully good ; and when you 
 consider all the difficulties on board ship in heavy 
 weather, the wonder is that it is done at all some 
 days, owing to the motion of the ship. The tables 
 have ledges fixed round them, and several days 
 cross ledges between them, to keep the plates and 
 dishes in their places. Now and then many receive 
 their soups in their laps, and their meat in their 
 faces instead of their mouths. The glasses are all 
 fixed in a species of dumb waiter, that is attached 
 to the ceiling, and can be wound up or down. 
 Everything is fresh fowls, turkeys, beef, mutton, 
 and so forth ; but I must confess some of it is getting 
 rather high, although kept in ice. Yesterday the 
 fish was a dead failure, and the odour enough to 
 knock you down. The supply of Wenham Lake 
 
122 
 
 ice is most plentiful ; it is a great luxury. We 
 expect to be in New York on Thursday, so I dare 
 say I shall not write any more ; indeed it is not 
 very easy to write, owing to the vibration of the 
 vessel. The Buffalo consul comes out well, we all 
 like him. There is a New York lawyer on board ; 
 he was asking me whether we spoke of the Queen 
 as Victoria; for instance -was Victoria at the 
 theatre ? They have queer notions, these same 
 Yankees but it is time enough to talk about them 
 just yet. 
 
 Thursday, September 3rd, New York : On 
 Tuesday, after luncheon, we had made 279 miles. 
 In the evening there was a good deal of singing, but 
 about nine the fog came on heavier and denser 
 than before, and being so much on the track of 
 the vessels required every precaution, and the fog- 
 whistle again commenced its doleful shriek. I, 
 
 M , and two others, sat in a place called " the 
 
 fiddle," a covered room, open at both sides, com 
 manding the capstan, which constitutes the smok 
 ing room in wet weather. We remained listening to 
 doleful accounts of vessels run down in fogs. 
 
 Captain L commanded the Cunard steamer 
 
 Europa, when she ran over, literally so, the Charles 
 Bartlett, emigrant ship, in three minutes and a half, 
 only some 70 being saved out of three or four 
 hundred : he was careful before, but as I wrote the 
 other day, is now doubly so, and never leaves 
 the bridge during a fog. I went to bed at two, 
 
123 
 
 but in an hour more the fog cleared away, the 
 ship, as the captain told me, going clear out of 
 it, and leaving it behind, like a dense impenetrable 
 wall. We drank the captain s health at dinner, 
 and at dusk saw the revolving light on Fire Island, 
 close to Long Island ; the distance ran from noon 
 on Tuesday to noon on Wednesday, being 300 
 miles. We were all on the look-out for the Arabia, 
 which sailed from New York on Wednesday, at 
 twelve noon. It was dark when she came in sight, 
 and we all felt the most lively interest, something 
 quite exciting, to see her coming steadily along. 
 Both ships being at good speed we drew together 
 fast, but our good captain announced his presence 
 by sending up rockets and burning blue lights 
 these signals were returned, and the effect was 
 most beautiful. The sea had been all day as 
 smooth as a mirror, and the full moonlight sparkled 
 on the water. We gave them a good hearty cheer, 
 which the crew and passengers of the Arabia 
 as heartily returned. We could see them clustering 
 on the ship, and we all wished God speed their 
 voyage that as early as possible they might arrive 
 at Liverpool, and announce that the good ship Asia 
 had, by God s mercy, passed safely through all the 
 difficulties and dangers of the mighty ocean, and was 
 within a few hours of its destined harbour. . The 
 lights on the Neversink were now visible, and a 
 dark ridge in the outline ahead, indicated our 
 proximity to the New World. 
 
124 
 
 We .soon came up with the entrance to the Nar 
 rows, leading up to New York. I should have said 
 that about four or live o clock we took the pilot on 
 board ; and all looked with great interest on a real 
 live Yankee pilot. Being full moon, and quite light, 
 they decided to go in, and not wait for daylight. 
 Coming up to Sandy Hook, we fired a gun or two, by 
 which I mean metal guns of small weight, perhaps 
 nine-pounders ; the report rolled on the water, and 
 reverberated from the land. In due time this had 
 an effect, and a small boat came bobbing up to us ; 
 the purser then threw him a can containing tele 
 graphic despatches. He then told us that the 
 Vanderbilt, which left Southampton when we left 
 Liverpool, had arrived at twelve that day, and so 
 anticipated our despatches. We scarcely hoped to 
 beat her, as she is a new and very large vessel, 
 much exceeding the Asia in tonnage and power. 
 After passing the Hook we had to fire away again 
 for the doctor to come on board, and give us per 
 mission to pass. It took several guns to awake 
 him, and after his arrival we steamed quietly along, 
 and soon had the lights of New York and Brooklyn 
 before us. Again our rockets went up, and we 
 fired enough to arouse the whole continent of 
 America. As we did not see the signal at the 
 Cunard Wharf that all was right, and as our arrival 
 was at an unusual hour, we had to wait awhile. We 
 passed the Battery, and therefore arrived at a 
 quarter-past three on Thursday morning, Sep- 
 
125 
 
 tember 3rd. It was an evening of great excite 
 ment and much interest ; in the interval we had 
 the sailors singing, and various bits of fun going 
 on ; the time seemed short, we were safely moored, 
 and then went to bed about four. Of course there 
 was music in the ship, rattling of chains, and so 
 forth not much rest to be got ; we were all up 
 again about five. We then had our last breakfast 
 on the Asia, got our luggage on shore, and with the 
 greatest regret bade farewell to the good ship that 
 had carried us so well and comfortably. All felt 
 the parting with one another, we had been so 
 agreeable together, had become well acquainted, 
 and naturally were very sorry our pleasant inter 
 course was at an end. 
 
 I am sorry my first American impressions were 
 not the thing. We landed in a black, dirty shed in 
 Jersey City, called a custom-house ; my things 
 thrown about in a most blackguard manner ; every 
 little thing opened, my stud cases, in fact every thing. 
 I had great difficulty in keeping my temper. After 
 the man had finished my dressing bag, " Well," he 
 exclaimed, " that air bag is the completest thing I 
 ever saw in my life." Two or three of my fellow- 
 voyagers and myself went together in one coach with 
 our luggage ; the man charged us six dollars, that is 
 about twenty-six shillings. We first went on board 
 a river ferry-boat, driving on board in the car 
 riage, and so far as appearance went might have 
 been in a street, with a quantity of vehicles in 
 
126 
 
 line, and foot passengers on the sides. It put me in 
 mind of our crossing the Ticino, only in this case 
 we went by steam power. We crossed the North 
 Kiver, and landed in New York, driving over a 
 rough pavement, in a filthy condition, and very soon 
 found ourselves in the vaunted Broadway, which 
 is not near so broad as the Boulevards. We drove 
 to the St. Nicholas, and found it crammed full; 
 then to the Metropolitan, then to LaFarge, then the 
 New York, then the Astor House, and at last got 
 taken in at the Union, in Union Square, where, in 
 the fourth storey, we got some bedrooms about as 
 large as dog kennels. * * * Yesterday we were 
 dead beat, and thoroughly tired, so just strolled 
 about. * * I am very well, as brown as a berry, in 
 tolerable appetite, and sleep like a top. Rotherham, 
 whom I mentioned to you, is a very gentlemanly 
 young man, well educated, and thoroughly good- 
 natured; and is arranging to accompany me to 
 Canada. 
 
 NEW YOEK, September 6th, 1857. 
 MY DEAR MAMMA, 
 
 I THINK I finished my last letter by saying 
 that on our arrival we had a very strict, and in fact 
 
127 
 
 almost rudely inquisitive examination of our luggage, 
 so much so that the prying Yankee even opened my 
 little stud cases, to see what they contained, lest I 
 might have brought a king in one of them, in order 
 to deprive the great United States of their Republi 
 can constitution. B was even more closely 
 
 examined, and after the ordeal was over we were 
 permitted to strap up our trunks, and they were borne 
 away to the gate, where we became the prey of sundry 
 drivers, who sought the favour of carrying us to our 
 destination. Meeting a raw-boned, lantern -jawed 
 individual, in a straw hat and blouse, who gave us 
 to understand that he was the proprietor of one of 
 these attendant vehicles, we proceeded to make a 
 bargain for the conveyance of our two selves, Mr. 
 
 C , and Mr. M , with all our luggage, to 
 
 the St. Nicholas. This we arranged with the pro 
 viso, that if there should be no room at the St. 
 Nicholas, he must drive on until we found accom 
 modation. A rough road brought us to the water s 
 edge, as we had to cross the North River, which 
 separates the state of New Jersey, where the Asia 
 lay, from New York. We were driven, as I told 
 you, on to a steam floating bridge, the engine in 
 the centre, and a roadway on each side, bounded 
 again by covered cabins, the one side for ladies, the 
 other for gentlemen. The steersman has a glass 
 house to himself, on the top of the vessel. Loaded 
 with many vehicles, and a large crowd of busy 
 eager-looking men, we soon crossed the river, and 
 
128 
 
 were driven into New York itself. Close to the 
 edge of the wharf we saw crowds of those extraor 
 dinary river boats for which America is so cele 
 brated, with the great engine-beam towering above 
 all. The first roll of our carriage told us that the 
 pavement was not first-rate, and our olfactory nerves 
 that the smells were more akin to those of Cologne 
 than anything or place else. Passing up one 
 street, we passed a handsome brown sandstone 
 church, and turning round to the left were in the 
 famous Broadway, and soon arrived at a splendid 
 white marble building, thirty windows long, and six 
 storeys high, which we found to be the St. Nicholas. 
 I went in to see if there was room for us, and 
 walked up a splendid hall, with a floor of black 
 and white marble, and entered an immense hall, 
 filled with luggage and people, where, at a counter, 
 I found the clerk of the place. " We have no 
 room," was the reply, and so back I went, and 
 reported the fact. We then crossed the street, a 
 little higher up, to the Metropolitan Hotel. " No 
 room," again the reply, and so on to Prescott s, 
 La Farge, the Astor House Hotel, New York Hotel, 
 with the same result. We then entered Union 
 Square, and tried the Union Hotel. Here we were 
 taken in, and obtained the small kennels I men 
 tioned before. I looked out on some wooden sheds, 
 and I must honestly confess that I experienced 
 one of those sad feelings of utter loneliness and 
 desolation that is part of your constitution and mine, 
 under similar circumstances. * * * 
 
139 
 
 I joined the rest of the party, and sallied forth, 
 and found the temperature much higher than was 
 at all agreeable. The first impressions of New 
 York are not by any means satisfactory; I do not 
 intend to compare it, as a city, with our European 
 capitals, because we must remember how much has 
 been done in, comparatively speaking, a very few 
 years; but still, owing to the state of the pave 
 ment, the place appears worse than it really is. 
 There seems to be no order of any kind; people 
 put casks, boxes, in fact all sorts of lumber, on the 
 footpath, which is thus greatly encumbered. Broad 
 way is, from the height of the buildings, a narrow 
 street, and possesses here and there a few trees, 
 that produce a species of Boulevard impression. 
 Passing, as it is, through a stage of transition, in 
 which old buildings of mean appearance are giving 
 way to splendid structures of marble and sand 
 stone, a very great irregularity is apparent, and 
 the general good effect of handsome edifices is 
 much detracted from. There is one very large stone 
 one, evidently a copy of a Venetian palace, some 
 thing like the Palazzo Pesara. Marble is largely 
 used, and the handsome brown stone which, 
 although I believe not so durable, is very effective 
 in street architecture. 
 
 We found the temperature very high, in fact, for 
 the first three days almost unbearable, and I had 
 some idea of going away at once, but the effect of 
 
 the sea voyage, which has produced some lassitude, 
 i 
 
130 
 
 rendered it unadvisable to proceed at once; besides, 
 after being so long confined on ship-board, I found 
 walking excessively fatiguing. The first day my 
 legs ached fearfully when I got in at night, so that 
 I scarcely knew where to put myself. In the 
 course of the day we called at the Metropolitan, 
 being thoroughly disgusted with the Union House, 
 and obtained a sitting-room and two bedrooms, 
 opening en suite with the saloon, and removed here 
 on Friday morning, immediately after breakfast. 
 
 On Thursday evening we went with M to a 
 
 very pretty theatre, called Niblo s, which occupies the 
 site of an old garden, has been gradually covered in, 
 and forms a part of the Metropolitan. We were 
 placed in an excellent box, and witnessed a ballet and 
 a pantomime, the latter of the poorest possible order. 
 
 Friday Morning; Metropolitan, which is a large 
 brown stone building, 29 windows long, 18 deep, 
 and six stories high, and contains within itself not 
 merely an American hotel, (with bar, smoking-room, 
 billiard-room, magnificently decorated public rooms, 
 for ladies and gentlemen, with newsroom, telegraph 
 office,) but also a theatre, garden, and shops of dif 
 ferent kinds, the most prominent being the barber s, 
 which is entered from the hall. It is the custom 
 here for every one to be shaved, and not shave 
 himself; hence a great demand for New York 
 Gadsbys. After fixing ourselves in our rooms, a 
 black man came in, and notified to us the important 
 fact that he was Sam. "Oh, very well, Sam, mind 
 
131 
 
 you come smart whenever we ring." " Ees, massa." 
 All the men-servants in this vast hotel are free 
 negroes if not absolute negroes, only a step or 
 two removed they are very civil, and a smile, or a 
 good-natured word will make them fly, and do any 
 thing for you. 
 
 The hotels are all replete with notices warning 
 you against thieves, who get into the rooms and cut 
 open luggage ; so you are requested to leave all 
 valuables in the bar, where they are locked up in 
 an iron safe, and the proprietor is answerable to 
 you for them by law. 
 
 In the course of Friday I presented some of my 
 letters. In the evening I dined with s part 
 ner, at the New York Club. On Saturday, B 
 
 and I dined with the Buffalo consul, at the Brevoort 
 House, which is conducted on the English system, 
 where you order what you want, and are charged 
 for your rooms. Here it is so much a-day, whether 
 you eat or not, which is the only system possible 
 where such vast crowds pour into a house, and 
 pass in and out every minute. I wonder, in fact, 
 how they know whether a person is staying at the 
 house or not, for it seems as if any one might walk 
 in, eat his dinner, and walk out unchallenged by 
 any one. 
 
 On Saturday evening we saw many processions 
 of firemen, soldiers, militia, &c. They are exceed 
 ingly fond of military display. * * * In the 
 middle of Saturday night we were awoke by a tre- 
 
132 
 
 inendous shouting and drumming ; a company of 
 the firemen had been contending for some prize 
 with another company at a distance, and had 
 returned victorious. I believe their engine had 
 squirted the farthest. These engines are a great 
 source of pride to them, and are most highly deco 
 rated ; they are undoubtedly well got up, and the 
 fire brigade a most useful body of men. 
 
 On Sunday, we made a call on the Asia, to see 
 our friends the officers, and spent an hour with 
 them. We then went on a river steamer as far as 
 Staten Island. Sunday is a quiet day in New York; 
 no omnibuses running, nor anything of that kind. 
 Yesterday I made some calls, and got put in the 
 way of seeing some of the Institutions of the place, 
 
 and who should I see but my friend W G . 
 
 He was very much astonished to see me ; he said 
 I was about the last person he should have thought 
 of seeing in America. He showed me about a good 
 deal; we went to see the Adriatic, the new Collins 
 steamer, which is the most magnificent vessel afloat, 
 and is intended to beat us all. The cabins are 
 superb, everything that can please the eye, and 
 at the same time every convenience is carefully 
 studied. They are far a-head of us in fitting up 
 steamers, but I prefer the plain solidity and care 
 ful management of the Cunard line. 
 
 I then called upon General Webb, whom I found 
 a very nice and gentlemanly man : he is the editor 
 and proprietor of the Courier and Inquirer news- 
 
133 
 
 papers ; he was very polite indeed, wished me to go 
 out and stay with him a day or two, but I cannot 
 manage it just now. He is sending a person with 
 me to-day, to shew me some of the places I most 
 wish to see. 
 
 This rather hurried letter I have been obliged to 
 close hastily, that it may go by the steamer leaving 
 Boston to-morrow. I shall write again so that my 
 next letter will go by the Asia. * * * * 
 
 SARATOGA SPRINGS, 
 
 Sunday, Sept. 15th, 1857. 
 
 MY DEAR MAMMA, 
 
 I FINISHED my last letter on Tuesday, to 
 be in time for the America, from Boston. 
 
 In the evening I dined with D , at the New 
 York Club, and was introduced to many people, all 
 very kind, and particularly anxious to show me 
 every attention, and do all in their power to make 
 my visit agreeable, as they certainly succeeded in 
 doing. New York is so decidedly a business-place 
 that we cannot expect to see much of the people 
 in the day, during which time they are closely 
 engaged in their various avocations, but after busi 
 ness they will do anything they can to oblige you. 
 I met at the club several to whom I had letters. A 
 Mr. S , cousin to W G , invited me 
 
134 
 
 to dinner for Thursday. I also made an engage 
 ment to sail with Colonel Johnson, in his yacht, 
 on Wednesday. He is the owner of the largest 
 yacht in America, 250 tons, called the Wanderer. 
 So, on the Wednesday afternoon, I joined a party, 
 and we went down the New York Bay, which gave 
 me a very good view of the splendid harbour, and of 
 this Empire City. Charles Matthews went with me; 
 B somehow missed us ; I got them both in 
 cluded, and very much we enjoyed our sail, though, 
 of course, the wind dropped when we got some 
 way out, according to my usual fortune, so that we 
 did not manage to reach Sandy Hook, as we in 
 tended. We returned to New York about ten at 
 night, after having a capital supper of spatched 
 woodcocks on board. The cabin was extremely 
 handsome, and fitted-up with satin and rosewood, 
 the berths as roomy as an ordinary French bed. 
 
 We have found New York passing through a 
 severe financial crisis; money extremely scarce, 
 and people failing on all sides. The best bills are 
 discounting at from two to three per cent, per 
 month, and I was told if any one had money to 
 invest, it could be done with perfect security at 18 
 or 20 per cent, premium. 
 
 On Thursday I dined with Mr. and Mrs. S , 
 
 who live in the Fifth Avenue, and spent a pleasant 
 evening. The dinner was excellent. They use a 
 great profusion of vegetables, tomatos, Indian corn, 
 squash, Lima beans, yams (sweet potatoes), but, 
 
135 
 
 above all, the Cantaleup melons. At the hotels you 
 get them to breakfast, dinner, and tea, half a melon 
 at a time, much larger than our hothouse fruit. 
 The large water melon I do not like. 
 My host and hostess had travelled a good deal in 
 the old world. I was astonished at the uncon 
 cerned manner in which they regard a voyage to 
 Europe, they think much less of it than we do of a 
 trip to Italy. The fact is, travelling with us is 
 much more agreeable ; the Republican principle is 
 so fully carried out in the States, that all sorts of 
 people sit cheek-by-jowl in the railway carriages, 
 and it certainly is not very pleasant. 
 
 Fifth Avenue is the fashionable part of New York, 
 and contains some very handsome mansions, quite 
 equal to the great London houses in their propor 
 tion and style ; the door handles, and bell handles, 
 and the door mountings, are all plated with silver, 
 and look extremely well, in fact every thing is ready 
 for an aristocracy. At six o clock on 
 
 Friday morning young Rotherham joined me at the 
 hotel, and we set off, bag and baggage, for the 
 Hudson, or North river steamer, which sailed at 
 seven for Albany, a distance of 145 miles : fare, one 
 dollar and a half, about six shillings. Of all the 
 beautiful sails in the world there are few to surpass 
 the Hudson : a fine, wide stream, double that of 
 the Rhine, flowing between wooded and rocky 
 highlands, with ever-changing scenery, winding 
 from side to side, so that you have the course of 
 
136 
 
 the river, often shut out from view, expanding into 
 splendid bays and forming beautiful lakes. I must 
 say, that our European rivers are, indeed, poor in 
 comparison. On one side the railway runs the 
 whole way from New York to Albany, but we pre 
 ferred the steamboat, in or$er to obtain the best 
 view T s of the river. 
 
 Soon after leaving New York, we reached a part of 
 the river where the high rocks are of basaltic forma 
 tion, called from their appearance the " Palisades." 
 West Point is the place where a large military 
 school is established for cadets, and here there is a 
 fort, and on the landing step we actually saw a 
 Yankee soldier. The largest town on the river is 
 Newburgh, with some extensive mills close to the 
 stream. On each side we had views of beautiful 
 glades, extending far into the hilly country; the 
 most beautiful were on the left, or west bank going 
 up ; the part where the rocks were bolder, and en 
 croached more on the stream, put me a little in 
 mind of the Lurleiberg, but on a grander scale. 
 After passing through the highland district, the 
 immediate shore becomes rather more level ; and 
 there we came in sight of the Catskill mountains 
 the general country being rather flat, much smaller 
 elevations are called mountains than with us and 
 certainly the Catskill mountains are not very high. 
 
 I am sorry to say I did not hear either little Rip 
 Van Winkle, or any of his ghostly friends, playing at 
 bowls ; but the light fell gloriously upon the hills, 
 
137 
 
 and partly illuminated, and partly hidden in mist, 
 they had a sufficiently mysterious appearance. I 
 must not forget to mention that we passed Spuyten 
 Devil Creek, where Anthony, the Trumpeter, blew 
 his last blast, as he sunk beneath the waves, a 
 story connected with the old Dutch legends of 
 the Hudson. About five o clock in the evening, 
 we reached Albany, not tired, but rather hungry, 
 as the food obtainable on board was not eatable. 
 The day- steamers are but poor ; whereas the night- 
 boats on the Hudson are magnificent floating 
 palaces. We got into the railway car, and went 
 on to a place called Troy, and stayed there all 
 night, at a very fair hotel called Troy House. We 
 should have remained at Albany, but it did not 
 look inviting ; and then we should have been fixed 
 on Sunday, as no trains run on that day on the 
 railways about here. 
 
 On Saturday morning, we went over Burder s 
 Iron Works, where we found one of the sons. 
 I gave him our cards, had no introduction to him, 
 but he at once showed us all over his place, and 
 gave us much interesting information. They have 
 the largest water-wheel in the world, 60 feet 
 diameter, and 22 feet wide, equal to 1000 horse 
 power, but they can only use 500 horse ; they have 
 puddling furnaces, rolling mills, foundry, and every 
 thing complete. Their principal work is making 
 horse-shoes, nails, and spikes, by machinery; the 
 machine turns out 60 shoes a-minute ; and each ma- 
 
138 
 
 chine makes twenty tons weight a- day ! It is their 
 own patent. He told us their power costs them 700 
 dollars a year, being the wages of two men, to 
 attend day and night, regulating the supply of 
 water ; and they have 70 feet fall above them to 
 spare, that would give about 1200 horse-power 
 more, such is the enormous scale of water-power 
 in this country. Mr. Burder was quite delighted 
 to see us ; took us over his grounds, and up a 
 rough wooden tower, open at the sides, to have a 
 view over the surrounding country ; and if we had 
 been staying, he wished to have seen us at his 
 house. He remembered Mr. Ashworth visiting his 
 works. When we arrived at Troy, we thought it 
 looked like the end of the world, such a poor, 
 lost-looking place. 
 
 The railway stopped in a street, a man and a boy 
 being the only people visible. On saying we would 
 go into the office, and make some enquiries of the 
 station-master, he said, " Wall, I guess, you will 
 jist have to ask me, for, I calculate, I am station- 
 master Sam Hall, and jist everything, Sinee" 
 The one boy put our traps on a wheel-barrow, 
 and on we marched to the Troy House. After 
 crossing the Hudson, in a dilapidated ferry boat, 
 and passing lines of warehouses, and some un 
 pleasant odours, the town gradually improved. In 
 the course of our rambles that evening and the 
 next day, we found handsome houses, marble 
 churches, Town Hall, courts, &c. ; and had a 
 
139 
 
 good specimen of a thriving New York town, 
 built partly on one side, partly on the other, 
 of the Hudson, with some other connecting 
 townships. Troy contains 100.000 inhabitants, 
 although Troy proper contains only 40,000, and is 
 a large manufacturing place. There are some mills 
 in the neighbourhood, but having determined to 
 spend Sunday at Saratoga did not visit them. 
 
 The railway at Troy, on the east side of the 
 Hudson, has a station of which they are rather proud, 
 but the great difficulty is, that you do not see a soul 
 that looks like a station-master or porter, or any 
 thing else ; and, for a stranger, it is difficult. At 
 last, a man came to give checks for the luggage. He 
 fastened a piece of brass, stamped with a number, 
 attached by a strap to each article, and gave us 
 another piece with a corresponding number, which 
 I gave to the hotel porter on arriving here, and 
 soon after reaching the hotel, the baggage follows. 
 
 When I left for Saratoga I put a bag and a coat 
 on a seat in a carriage, thinking, in the innocence 
 of my heart, that by so doing I had secured two 
 places. On entering the carriage, I found two 
 females had put them off, and taken the seats. Each 
 carriage is a long affair, with rows of seats down 
 both sides, so that the conductor marches through 
 the train, and takes or sells tickets. One woman 
 came in, and said to a young man near me, " Guess 
 I want a seat," and the young man got up, and she 
 took it, without so much as thank you ! 
 
140 
 
 We passed through a half- cultivated country, and 
 at dusk reached Saratoga, and went at once to 
 the United States Hotel, which we found an im 
 mense place, huilt round a large planted garden, 
 with vast covered corridors for the guests to prome 
 nade in; they accommodate 1,200 people here in 
 the season, and have houses, with gardens, separate 
 from the hotel, which are let to families. The 
 season is now over, and on the 1st of October they 
 shut up the hotels, of which there are several : the 
 corridors extend round both sides of the hotel, or 
 perhaps I might better call it an assemblage of 
 buildings, some brick, some wood. Most of the 
 houses about here are frame-houses, plastered inside, 
 and must be insufferably hot in summer, and cold 
 in winter. There are now, perhaps, 100 people in 
 the house, and it is of course deserted in appearance. 
 This morning we walked down to the Empire Spring, 
 and tasted the water, which is a pleasant tonic, not at 
 all disagreeable to take. Then we visited the rock 
 spring, the first known there, discovered originally 
 by the Indians, when it silently poured forth in the 
 midst of an unknown forest. They brought some 
 English general there, who was wounded about 200 
 years ago, and bathed him, and cured him there, 
 and from that period it has been celebrated. 
 
 It is a small conical hill of lime-stone, with a 
 round hole at the summit, out of which the water 
 used formerly to pour, but now there is some crack 
 in it, and it runs away. The hill is only about five 
 
141 
 
 feet high, and has been undoubtedly formed by the 
 water itself pouring over and petrifying. It was 
 an extremely interesting object, and carried our 
 minds back to the time when the red man alone 
 ruled the land; and this spot, now the centre of 
 attraction to the American fashionables, was the 
 great medicine-water of the solitary Mohawk. It 
 is situated in a dell; but the trees have all dis 
 appeared, and the ugly, unpainted, wooden frame- 
 house, covers the sides of the dell. 
 
 Saratoga is situated prettily; the ground is 
 undulating, and there are pleasant drives in the 
 neighbourhood. We took one to the Saratoga 
 Lake, called by the Mohawks the Lake of the Great 
 Spirit, from its over-powering silence. It is about 
 three miles wide and nine miles long, beautifully 
 wooded. The Indians never spoke in crossing it, 
 as they believed if they did, it would offend the Great 
 Spirit. There is a large hotel near it, and, I must 
 say, I would far prefer to stay there, amid the 
 beauties of the lake, than at the springs them 
 selves. The banks are well wooded; and the 
 shapes of the hills about very pleasing. On the 
 road, we passed many of the old clearings, with the 
 tree stumps sticking up out of the ground. We 
 met two young men carrying two small animals, 
 and asking the driver what they were, " Wall, I 
 guess, that air Injian has killed them with his bow 
 and arrow." Oh, dreadful shock ! The Indian 
 was a dirty-looking lad, in a white shirt and shabby 
 
142 
 
 trowsers ; perhaps a descendant of some stately 
 Mohawk sadly degenerated ! 
 
 The country is alive with the chirrup of grass 
 hoppers that sound loud now, whilst I am writing, 
 among the grass, in the centre of the court of the 
 hotel, and to-day we heard the shrill cry of the 
 locusts ; in the evening another insect joins the 
 concert, called the Katadid, from the peculiar noise 
 it makes, " Katadid, katadid." 
 
 It would amuse you to see the black waiters. 
 At dinner they all enter in procession, each bear 
 ing two dishes ; one man claps his hands, the 
 dishes are suspended over the table, clap two, and 
 down they come into their places. I enclose you 
 a bill of fare of to-day, and when I tell you it was 
 got through in fifty minutes, I think even Lawrence 
 must admit that neither he nor his men could 
 do anything of the kind. They are very civil to 
 English people, I think it is because we treat 
 them better. An American never says, " If you 
 please," or " Thank you," to a poor darky, and I 
 think they feel the difference of manners. At 
 Troy House I got a whiff from a fat negro that 
 took my appetite away. To-morrow we start for 
 Montreal. 
 
 I find my young travelling companion most 
 agreeable. I have taken a great liking to him, 
 which I think is mutual, and we shall get on capi 
 tally together ; it is much pleasanter having com- 
 pany. * * * 
 
143 
 
 TORONTO, CANADA WEST, 
 
 Sept. 21st, 1857, 
 
 MY DEAR MAMMA, 
 
 MY last letter from Saratoga would give you 
 the history of our proceedings up to that date ; and 
 on the Monday morning, at eight, we started for 
 Whitehall. The line passed through a beautiful 
 country, very much undulated, and in some places 
 rocky ; always well- wooded, and supplied with 
 streams of water. At Whitehall, we found a 
 steamer ready to take us up Lake Champlain. At 
 first the lake is extremely narrow, being more like 
 a river than any part of a lake. The ground was 
 level to the borders of the lake ; but fine wood- 
 covered hills bounded the plain land, and, gradually 
 approaching nearer, we entered the lake through 
 the hills, after sailing 20 or 30 miles down the 
 river. However much we admired the Hudson, we 
 found the scenery of Lake Champlain much finer ; 
 a succession of splendid woodland views, with 
 retiring glades, penetrating the hills. Imagine a 
 fine, broad sheet of water, now narrowed by the 
 land and then expanding, dotted with islands : 
 the entire sail was one to be remembered for life. 
 The boat stopped at several places, the largest 
 being Burlington, a fine town in Vermont. We 
 passed several localities rendered famous in the 
 
144 
 
 War of Independence, and in the late war with 
 America, among the principal being Fort Ticonde- 
 roga, which was first taken from the French by the 
 English, and afterwards taken by the Americans. 
 After dark, we landed at Rouse s Point, and stepped 
 on shore in the English possessions, being the 
 frontier of Canada. Here we got into the railway 
 again ; and, after some long delay, waiting for the 
 direct train from New York, we proceeded on our 
 way to Montreal. The train came to a stand, we 
 got out, and stepped into a ferry-boat, and found 
 ourselves on the mighty St. Lawrence ! Crossing 
 over, we w r ere received by an accumulation of cab- 
 drivers, omnibus cads, and so forth ; and getting 
 into an omnibus, were driven to the Donegana 
 Hotel, where we had supper and went to bed, 
 pretty well tired with a journey of 15 hours. The 
 next morning we sallied forth to have our first view, 
 and receive our first impression of a Canadian 
 town ; and were really surprised with the solid 
 substantial appearance of every place. The build 
 ings appear as if intended to stand, and not merely 
 put up as make -shifts. 
 
 Montreal boasts of some really fine public 
 edifices. The Catholic Cathedral would, from 
 its exterior, have induced you to rush in at once. 
 We went in, and found the pillars all wood, the 
 floor the same, and filled with pews ; nevertheless, 
 it is a fine, well-built church, and possesses a veiy 
 imposing fagade. The post-office, bank, law courts, 
 
145 
 
 and so forth, are handsome buildings; and the quays 
 on the St. Lawrence, here a mile-and-a-half wide, are 
 well- constructed. Mr. Ogilvie, to whom 
 
 I had a letter from Mr. Wilde, told us what to see 
 in the town; and in the afternoon took us in his car 
 riage a very pleasant drive round the mountain, as it 
 is called, which is to Montreal what the Superga 
 is to Turin. * 
 
 In the evening we took a river steamer for 
 Quebec. The scenery on the St. Lawrence between 
 Montreal and Quebec, is not particularly interest 
 ing, the shores flat and tame; still, it is a 
 magnificent stream of water. St. Peter s Lake, 
 which is a part of the river, is nine miles across. 
 We had a good steamer, and a cabin to ourselves, 
 and at seven the next morning found ourselves 
 at Quebec. Taking the hotel omnibus, we were 
 jolted up a tremendously steep hill, to Russell s 
 Hotel,which is the best there, but a wretched hole. 
 Eotherham had taken a severe cold, and I found 
 him very feverish, so gave him some quinine, 
 which set him all right in a few hours. 
 
 I then called on Mr. Forsyth, to whom I had a 
 letter from Sir John Pakington; he very kindly 
 called upon us at half-past three, and invited 
 us both to dinner. In the meantime I took a 
 survey of the town, and although it does not con 
 tain anything very striking, yet it is a curious and 
 interesting place ; built on a steep hill, surrounded 
 
 with strong fortifications, crowned with a citadel, 
 K 
 
146 
 
 overlooking the grand river below, it cannot fail to 
 strike the visitor. I found my way to a kind of 
 plateau, on which some guns were mounted, and 
 then I had a view of the St. Lawrence, the island 
 of Orleans, which divides the river into two streams ; 
 and, on the other hand, the upward stream of the 
 small river St. Charles, which empties itself into 
 the St. Lawrence. The steep sides of the river are 
 clothed with trees, and far away you see the higher 
 mountains. 
 
 At half-past three Mr. Forsyth came, and we 
 walked first to the citadel, and had a good view of 
 the river, and the large timber depots, where the 
 rafts floated down the river are broken up, and the 
 timber shipped for England and other parts. We 
 then walked past the citadel, and called upon a 
 partner of Mr. Forsyth, a sporting man ; he has a 
 large collection of horses, and so forth. Among 
 his curiosities we saw an immense wild cat, killed 
 in his garden the day before, a creature as tall as 
 Bevis, with extraordinary long feet, and altogether 
 especially ugly. After this visit we proceeded a 
 little further, and stood on the Plains of Abraham, 
 and after tracing the course taken by General 
 Wolfe and his troops, we stood by a small pillar, 
 with this inscription : 
 
 "HEBE DIED WOLFE, VICTORIOUS." 
 
 A spot sacred in history, where the true hero died 
 at the moment of victory, his skill and bravery 
 
ur 
 
 having given a new province to England. We then 
 returned to our hotel, and after dressing went to 
 dine with Mr. Forsyth, and met some seven or 
 eight gentlemen, all very kindly asked to meet us, 
 and spent a very agreeahle evening. 
 
 There is a striking peculiarity about the Canadian 
 buildings ; almost all their roofs are covered with 
 tin plate, and as the climate is dry, the tin retains 
 its brightness for years, and their roofs glitter in 
 the sun in the most extraordinary way, giving a 
 curious effect to the landscape, and rendering the 
 towns visible at a great distance, from the reflection 
 of light on the domes and spires of the churches. 
 
 In the morning we got a carriage, and drove out 
 to see the falls of Montmorencie : the drive was 
 extremely pleasant, passing through a beautiful 
 country, with a succession of views of the river, 
 overlooked by the Citadel of Quebec. The falls 
 are very fine, but I presume their impression is 
 soon to be effaced by the mighty Niagara. Still, 
 being the first really large falls I ever saw, they 
 were particularly interesting ; an immense volume 
 of water, 50 or 60 feet wide, and two or three feet 
 deep, pours over several rocky interruptions in its 
 channel, for some distance gradually descending, 
 until at last it falls over a precipice 250 feet in 
 height ; the effect is very sublime, and the roar of 
 the water perfectly musical. The fall is close to 
 the St. Lawrence river, and the stream at once 
 runs into it. 
 
148 
 
 The season for visitors in Quebec is about over, 
 and in November the river freezes up, and so remains 
 until May; the cold is then intense; at times the 
 last winter it was 34 or 40 degrees below zero, that 
 would be about 72 below freezing point. The mix 
 ture of races and language is extremely interesting. 
 The signs and the notices are all repeated in French 
 and English, and the people generally speak both 
 tongues, though I rather fancy Paris would have 
 some difficulty in comprehending the French of 
 the hdbitans ; still, the money, the energy, the 
 commercial skill and activity are here, as else 
 where, with the English residents, and they seem, 
 so far as I have talked with them, attached to the 
 land of their adoption; but "the old country," as 
 they endearingly call England, is always spoken of as 
 " home." Neither time nor distance can obliterate 
 the feelings that draw men with affection to the 
 land of their birth, and the home of their child 
 hood, and I am glad to see these feelings so preva 
 lent in Canada, which must do more to keep this 
 splendid province an English possession than any 
 thing else : they do not like their Yankee neigh 
 bours ; they are too fast for them, and they look 
 down upon their luxury and excitement with con 
 tempt. Still, they may take lessons from John 
 Bull s younger son, more particularly in the matter 
 of hotels, which, in Montreal and Quebec, are truly 
 wretched, Quebec the worst; in fact, I was think 
 ing the other day, what would Papa do here ; 
 
149 
 
 he could not sleep in the beds, nor could he eat 
 the meat. The flesh meat is coarse, the cooking 
 bad ; here at Toronto, however, there is an excellent 
 hotel, on the American plan, with really good 
 living. We meet a vast predominance of Irish 
 everywhere, but, somehow, here they settle clown 
 into useful people, and supply all the domestic 
 servants including waiters, which are either Irish 
 or negroes. I am getting quite accustomed to see 
 a delicate black paw at the edge of my plate, or else 
 taking a block of ice, and putting it in my glass or 
 jug; as I told you, in another letter, the use of ice- 
 water is the greatest luxury here possible, and it is 
 most abundant. I have just arrived at the conclusion 
 that an abundant supply of pure iced water is not 
 only the greatest luxury, but also is, of all things, 
 most conducive to temperance; we rarely drink 
 anything else at dinner, and the majority of people 
 at the table are satisfied with the pure ele 
 ment, though many, certainly, take a drink at 
 the bar after dinner is over. There is little 
 spitting or chewing among the Canadians, and it 
 is really something dreadful whenever you meet a 
 Yankee. 
 
 At Montreal we met a young man with a furious 
 moustache ; he had come over recently, and had 
 lost his voice ; he told me, in a faint whisper, 
 that having heard there were no good saddles in 
 Canada, he had brought one with him in a box. 
 He was staying, and we found him there on our 
 
150 
 
 return from Quebec, the saddle in the box, and 
 the man still apparently not knowing what to do 
 with himself. 
 
 We left Quebec by railway, and passed through 
 what will some day be a fine country. It has been 
 cleared, but is clothed anew with a fresh growth of 
 timber, and so, for miles, in a straight line, the 
 train rushes on, passing nothing but wood and tree 
 stumps, sticking up out of the ground. The 
 Grand Trunk Eailway is a fine work, vastly superior 
 in its construction to the States Railway; it is on the 
 broad gauge, and the carriages are pretty comfortable ; 
 they are open through, and you have perfect liberty 
 to walk from one end of the train to the other. 
 
 We arrived at Montreal about ten, and left next 
 morning at seven, arriving at Toronto at half- 
 past nine in the evening ; the total distance from 
 Quebec to Toronto being 513 miles, run in twenty 
 hours absolute travelling. The great tubular bridge 
 over the St. Lawrence at Montreal is in progress, 
 but some three years must elapse ere it is completed. 
 
 The nature of the country is still the same 
 eternal forest ; and I am glad to say I saw some 
 real log huts, which I was anxious to meet with : 
 at Kingston, we came in sight of Lake Ontario, 
 and ran for some distance by the side of this mag 
 nificent inland sea ! The water was blue, and the 
 waves beat on the shore, so that you could not 
 really detect any difference between the lake and 
 the ocean itself. At Toronto, we found an excel- 
 
151 
 
 lent hotel, and met Mr. C and M , who 
 
 came over with us in the Asia; they had been 
 to Niagara and Chicago, and have set off this morn 
 ing for Quebec. 
 
 Toronto seems a very fine rising town ; the 
 streets are all wide, and laid out at right angles ; 
 the roads are rough and dirty; the foot-paths are all 
 well planked : in most other towns the side-walks 
 are planked, and, in many instances, the road itself 
 also: wood is so superabundant, it is burned in 
 vast quantities in the locomotives, steamboats, &c. 
 
 Yesterday I called at the barracks, and found that 
 Haliburton was there, but happened to be out at the 
 time. I want some information for our route : I am 
 anxious to go to the Sault St. Marie, at the head 
 of Lake Michigan, and into Lake Superior if 
 possible. * * * * 
 
 You would be perfectly astonished at the 
 grandeur and magnitude of the shops in this new 
 town ; they are quite equal to any we have ; and 
 the price of land is fabulous, considering the 
 locality; and it must be some years before the 
 property can be worth its present nominal price. 
 There are many handsome public edifices which I 
 have not yet had time to see, as I must finish this 
 letter early, to catch the English mail ; and have 
 had no time nor opportunity to put pen to paper 
 since I left Saratoga. 
 
 We shall leave here to-morrow or Wednesday for 
 Niagara. 
 
152 
 
 I met a man last night who left England on the 
 26th of August, and has been a little way further 
 than Toronto, to a place called London, turned 
 back, then saw Niagara in five minutes, and leaves 
 next Saturday for Liverpool. How curiously people 
 do travel ! 
 
 Eotherham is a capital companion, and we get 
 on well together. He told me he had put his card 
 down on the table of the Asia (the way you mark 
 your dinner seat), but changed it when he saw me, 
 to sit next me, and we just seem to have known 
 each other a dozen years. I see there has been a 
 fearful wreck in a great storm on the Atlantic ; off 
 Cape Hatteras, the Central America foundered with 
 500 passengers on board, only 40 being saved. 
 The weather here is delightfully cool and bracing ; 
 in fact quite cold morning and evening, and much 
 more healthy than the heat we had at New York. 
 
 I must now close this rather short letter, but was 
 determined not to miss a mail if possible. I opened 
 the Bible last night at the 25th Psalm, which I 
 read and went to bed. * * * 
 
153 
 
 CLIFTON HOUSE, NIAGARA, 
 
 September 23rd, 1857. 
 
 MY DEAR MAMMA, 
 
 I FINISHED my last letter rather hastily ; in 
 fact I had but little time to write at all, owing to 
 so much travelling, and the fatigue consequent 
 thereon. After I had dispatched the letter, I re 
 ceived a telegram from Mr. Ogilvie, informing me 
 that a letter had arrived at Montreal, and that I 
 should receive it the next day ; this cheered me 
 up considerably, and I sallied forth to the Govern 
 ment House to find Mr. Ash worth s friend, Captain 
 
 R ; but he was absent. I met Colonel Irvine, 
 
 Aide-de-Camp to his Excellency, to whom I deli 
 vered the letters I had for Sir William Eyre ; he 
 took the letter to Sir William, who hoped I would 
 call upon him the next morning. 
 
 I took Rotherham with me, to see the Toronto 
 Observatory, which is entirely devoted to terres 
 trial magnetism ; it is very well conducted, and 
 the results have been of much importance to 
 science generally. After dinner, the hour for 
 which is two o clock, I found Haliburton waiting to 
 see me ; he is a very good-looking fellow, and we went 
 
154 
 
 out for a walk : we visited the House of Assembly, 
 which is a small copy of our Houses of Parliament, 
 having a House of Commons and Senate Chamber; 
 they are neatly fitted up. The Government of Canada 
 is peripatetic, and is now at Toronto, at Montreal, 
 and Quebec; the Houses of Parliament have 
 been burnt down, I think by Canadian mobs. At 
 present there is a motion before the English Go 
 vernment, to decide on one town, which is for the 
 future to be the fixed capital of Canada. I fancy 
 it will be Quebec, but of course the people in the 
 different towns, Montreal and Toronto, hope it 
 may be theirs, and there is a fourth claimant in 
 the city of Ottawa. There is an excellent library 
 attached to the Parliament-house, almost new, as 
 two libraries were destroyed at the same time the 
 houses were burnt in the other towns. In the 
 evening we went up to the old barracks, and 
 smoked a cigar with Haliburton ; he lives in an 
 old wooden house, one story high, within the fort, 
 which is of no use now as a fort, being one of the 
 old stockades used in the wars with the Indians, 
 and is defended by mud walls, supported by strong 
 beams placed upright in the ground, very close to 
 each other, and contains several block-houses, 
 pierced for rifles. Though ruined and dilapidated, 
 it gives you a very good idea of the kind of forts 
 they used in that half- civilised warfare. Colonel 
 Irvine came during the evening, and told us many 
 amusing stories, principally local. I received a 
 
155 
 
 card from Sir William and Lady Eyre, inviting me 
 to dine at Government House next Friday ; but of 
 course I could not stay so long, and had to decline 
 it. Colonel Irvine gave me a note to Mr. Chessly, 
 the head of the Indian department, in order that 
 I might get some information relative to the Sault 
 St. Marie route, and on Tuesday morning I called 
 on him, and he gave me a letter to the collector of 
 customs. Afterwards I called on Sir William Eyre, 
 who was extremely kind, and offered to do anything 
 for me, and would not be satisfied until he had hit 
 on the idea that a circular letter from himself to all 
 English government officers on or in my route, would 
 be useful, which he sent me in the course of the next 
 day. I then went to the model school and normal 
 establishment, which is the Committee of Privy 
 Council on Education for Canada. A person came 
 to show me round, I wrote my name in a book, he 
 looked at it, and when he saw the place I came 
 from, "Oh, are you from Manchester?" I said 
 "Yes; do you know that city?" "Oh, yes; I 
 
 have a brother-in-law there, the Rev. Mr. D ." 
 
 So I told him I knew Mr. D slightly, and I think 
 
 I might have carried the whole place away ; I did 
 think he was going to embrace me. It is a splendid 
 establishment, and is the great depot for teaching 
 materials for the province, and books for the public 
 libraries, and so forth. He gave me a copy of their 
 last report, and promised to send me the new one 
 as soon as published. 
 
158 
 
 night, I opened the window, threw back the Vene 
 tian windows, and looked forth upon the Falls. 
 Before me, almost opposite, was the smaller, or 
 American Fall, separated by Goat Island from the 
 Canadian, or Great Horse Shoe Fall. I can t tell you 
 how deep, or how broad, or how high ; I dare say 
 it is all in print somewhere. I could not stop to 
 ask the question, or care about it one straw. 
 There, before me, was the mighty torrent, tossed 
 and vexed in its course, until it finally plunged into 
 the depth below, and from that depth arose a mist 
 of spray that hid from view the bottom of the fall, 
 and rising, at times shut out the greater part of 
 the fall itself. Looking to the right from Goat 
 Island, I saw the Horse Shoe Fall, which is much 
 larger and grander than the other one ; it forms a 
 rather acute angle, more than the round form you 
 would imagine from its being called Horse Shoe ; 
 and the enormous amount and depth of water 
 falling over is evidenced by the green colour it 
 takes at the edge, and for a short way down, ere it 
 breaks into spray. The sunlight, playing on the 
 spray, creates beautiful rainbows, ever changing in 
 their brightness and forms, and down below the 
 waters boil and foam, and then appear as if 
 they were stunned, and seem to move away 
 sluggishly. I noticed the same effect at the 
 falls of Montmorencie. It struck Eotherham pre 
 cisely the same. 
 
 After breakfast we took a carriage, to go round 
 
159 
 
 and see the different points of view ; we went first 
 to the side of the Horse Shoe Falls, and stood 
 close to the rushing waters, where, on the llth of 
 this month, an Englishman, named Allen, after 
 waving his hat, jumped into the water, and was 
 seen no more. He staid at the Clifton Arms, and 
 in the book he wrote his name as usual, and ap 
 pended to it is, in another hand, "Jumped off 
 Tahle Eock on the llth." Brief record of an act 
 surely of insanity, and yet I can assure you these 
 waters have the most fascinating appearance. Our 
 guide, to-day, said this Allen s bones might be 
 found in the winter, jammed in the rocks. 
 
 We then put on waterproof garments, and de 
 scending a staircase, went along a ledge of rock, 
 keeping close to the rocks, until we had proceeded 
 some distance beneath the falls themselves. The 
 spray beat up against us so much that I could 
 hardly keep my breath, and was glad to get back. 
 I have got my certificate of having been under 
 these falls as far as Termination Rock ; but, I con 
 fess, I would not go again for a good deal. I am 
 sure it is dangerous; if we made a false step, 
 no power could keep us from being dashed to pieces. 
 I also found that the rock gave way at times, and 
 pieces fell down upon the narrow path; had I 
 known that sooner I would not have gone. I shall 
 enclose the certificate, and have it framed and 
 hung up, as an instance of what people will do. 
 
160 
 NIAGARA FALLS, C. W. 
 
 TABLE HOCK HOUSE. 
 
 THIS IS TO CERTIFY THAT 
 
 MR. JOHN A. NICHOLLS 
 
 HAS THIS DAY BEEN 
 
 UNDER THE GREAT SHEET OF WATER! 
 
 The distance of two hundred and forty feet from the commencement of 
 the Falls to the termination of Table Rock: 
 
 WITH A COMPETENT GUIDE IN THE EMPLOY OP THE SUBSCRIBER. 
 
 Sept. 23rd, 1857. J. DAVIS, Proprietor. 
 
 We then went up the stream to see the rapids, and 
 if Niagara did not exist, those rapids alone would be 
 enough to attract attention. For more than a mile 
 the foaming waters leap, and toss, and fret them 
 selves over the rocky obstructions that prevent 
 their easy descent; of course they are quite impas 
 sable, and at times vessels get down into them, and 
 are carried helplessly over the falls. It is, I believe, 
 a grand sight to see vessels carried down. Our 
 driver told us he saw one two years ago, that had 
 broken loose from the steamer that was towing it 
 across to Navy Island, it had sheep, horses, and 
 cows on board ; all went over. Just as it reached 
 the edge of the fall it broke in two, and only a few 
 scattered timbers were ever seen again, although 
 boats went as near to the lower part of the fall as 
 possible, in order to pick up some of the dead 
 cattle. We saw a burning spring, not unlike the 
 Harrogate water; the gas is inflammable that 
 
161 
 
 comes from the spring, and the man set it on fire 
 for our benefit. 
 
 After a long sojourn by the side of the rapids, 
 we returned to the hotel to dinner, and then went 
 across the suspension bridge, which is a magnificent 
 work ; the railway runs on the upper part, below 
 which is a road for carriages and foot passengers. 
 We then crossed a small bridge over the American 
 rapids, and went to Goat Island, and enjoyed the 
 view of the falls from there, and from a small 
 tower built at the extreme point of the island, with 
 a gallery hanging over the falls, from which the 
 view is indeed sublime. We saw the three small 
 islands called " The Three Sisters." It seems an old 
 hermit found out the Indian way of crossing to Goat 
 Island : and when the red men were away went over 
 and destroyed the ropes by which they kept up their 
 communication with the main land, and lived on the 
 island the remainder of his life. Finding three 
 little girls upon it, he placed one on each of the 
 small islands, and there maintained them, hence 
 the name of " The Three Sisters." 
 
 Our man told us many stories of people being 
 carried over the falls. After staying a long time on 
 Goat Island we returned, calling on the way at a kind 
 of shop kept by Indians, for the sale of their moose 
 hair work, and I bought some things from the 
 daughter of the chief Black Hawk. Returning by 
 the bridge to the hotel in time for tea, I then sat 
 down to begin this letter, after spending a day of 
 
162 
 
 perfect enjoyment. Before I came up stairs I went 
 out to the edge of the river, and saw the effect of 
 the moon on the water ; it is but a crescent, yet the 
 faint light caught the spray with a very good effect. 
 I wished, then, I could just transport you over 
 here, without a sea voyage, to see Niagara. If I 
 saw nothing else, and returned at once, I should 
 consider the voyage amply repaid. 
 
 BUFFALO, Sept. %5th. 
 
 ft 
 
 BEFORE I wrote, on the 23rd, and the following 
 day, I spent in quiet contemplation of the falls, 
 feeling, as I did, that I could never gaze long 
 enough upon them. It was a real relief to know 
 that the usual round of sights was completed, that 
 the things to be done were done, and no one could 
 challenge my right to sit and watch the mighty 
 waters, ever rolling over the vast abyss, and cast 
 ing up their clouds of mist and spray that rose 
 far above the level of the falls themselves. I sat 
 on a log of wood, on the Canada side, close to the 
 edge of the great Horse Shoe Fall, about two 
 hours, in a species of trance, and afterwards on the 
 balcony of the hotel for some time longer. The 
 more you look the longer you wish to stay; it 
 was with deep regret we left Niagara, and took our 
 places in the cars for Chippewa Creek, and then 
 
163 
 
 on by the steamer up Niagara River, to Buffalo. 
 The sail is exquisitely lovely, the stream strong 
 and deep, both immediately above the rapids that 
 break just below Chippewa, and form the great 
 rapids of Niagara, rendering the navigation rather 
 dangerous ; and again close to Buffalo, where the 
 stream, near a mile wide, runs at the rate of seven 
 miles an hour, the banks are clothed with trees 
 almost level with the water, presenting that closely 
 wooded scenery so peculiar to the American conti 
 nent, and terminating in the broad water of Lake 
 Erie. The sun was setting in gorgeous splendour 
 as we arrived, gilding the sky with the deepest 
 golden light. On landing, we drove to the Ame 
 rican Hotel, through a fine, wide, well-lighted 
 street, and after tea we found our travelling friend 
 Donohoe, the consul at Buffalo, was staying at 
 the American. He was very glad to see us, and 
 
 introduced us to a Mr. H , a lawyer here, 
 
 with whom we went to the theatre, and were sur 
 prised to find a very handsome, well-arranged 
 house, and a motley audience. The dress part 
 was occupied with respectable people, and up stairs 
 were many wild-looking far- West men, with a few 
 negroes in the gallery. 
 
 To-day we walked about with Donohoe, and were 
 indeed astonished with the magnitude and busy 
 
 aspect of the place. This evening Mr. H took 
 
 us a drive, and showed us the splendid houses of 
 the richer people ; from him I received a deal of 
 
164 
 
 information relative to the place, In 1804 it 
 contained about 500 inhabitants; and in 1813, the 
 wooden town of Buffalo was burnt by the English 
 troops, leaving one house only, which still exists. 
 In 1833 it contained about 5,000 inhabitants, and 
 now numbers quite 100,000. Main-street is three 
 miles long, and Franklin and Washington- streets, 
 running parallel with it, are fine wide streets, with 
 footways twenty or thirty feet wide. Main-street 
 is the principal thoroughfare, and is wider than 
 Portland- street, containing the principal shops and 
 two of the chief hotels. Our hotel contains 200 
 bed-rooms, and there are two more, equally large. 
 The buildings are fine and handsome, and I can 
 safely say there are shops Manchester cannot equal. 
 It depends to a great extent on the transit trade of the 
 far west, and its harbour is crowded with shipping. 
 We went on board a steamer that runs to Toledo, 
 one of the most splendid I ever saw, 335 feet long, 
 which cost 700,000 dollars. There are three or 
 four other boats almost equal, engaged in the pas 
 sage trade to Detroit and Chicago. Buffalo is also 
 the great place for the corn trade; the grain is there 
 warehoused, and either sent by rail or by the 
 Welland and Erie canals, to New York. The streets 
 are well made, and they are going to a great ex 
 pense with the levels, so as to have one system of 
 gradients for the whole town, instead of letting 
 people do as they please, on the good principle 
 that the first expense is the least. 
 
165 
 
 Mr. H seems extremely proud of Buffalo, 
 
 He says, " the Americans are a people without 
 history, without association, and devoid of all reve 
 rence." They have no past, and do not care about 
 it; in fact, here it is each man for himself. A 
 man goes into business, fails, starts something else 
 immediately, and if that fails, tries again on fresh 
 ground. He pointed out some people at the 
 theatre, who, five years ago, were hardly above 
 working men, or clerks at the highest, now rich 
 merchants and bankers. All are in hot haste to 
 get rich, and they feel that so large an extent of 
 country still remaining unoccupied, affords opportu 
 nities for amassing wealth that do not exist in 
 Europe. 
 
 I am perfectly astounded with Buffalo. I ex 
 pected to see a decent country town, at most all 
 makeshifts ; I find a city, laid out on a magnificent 
 scale, an infant, it is true, but one of Hercules 
 kind, and bidding fair, in thirty years, to be as 
 large as Manchester. Land is sold in lots, mea 
 suring frontage, and extending back 120 feet. The 
 price in Main -street runs from 800 and 900 dollars 
 to 1,000 and 1^00 per foot of frontage, and equalling 
 about 30 dollars a square yard ; nearly 7. per 
 square yard; so much have they anticipated the 
 future greatness of their promising city. There 
 are large manufactories, stores, and those articles 
 required by settlers in the distant West. I saw a 
 large manufactory of piano fortes, nearly as large 
 
166 
 
 as our mill. Their hotels would surprise you ; the 
 business they do is immense, and crowds are ever 
 coming and departing from all parts. They begin 
 breakfast at half-past four, and supper till twelve, 
 and during nearly the whole time people are eating. 
 
 Donohoe has been well received; resolutions 
 passed at meetings, congratulating him on his 
 arrival. He is the first consul ever appointed here 
 from England, and I suppose the people are grati 
 fied to have a representative of Her Britannic 
 Majesty in Buffalo. 
 
 SATURDAY MORNING, 26th. 
 
 So far last night. I have received your letter : 
 I am glad you looked in at the school, and ap 
 prove of our new Master. When you call again 
 give him my kind regards, and tell the staff I am 
 quite well, and getting on capitally ; indeed, the 
 same information will do for all enquiring friends. 
 
 I can truly say that I have met on all hands with 
 the greatest politeness ; they have their peculia 
 rities, like the rest of the world ; they are vain of 
 their country ; they are proud of what they have 
 done. They have great reason to be proud, and I 
 don t mind telling them so ; it is the truth, and at 
 the same time it pleases them. It is wonderful 
 
167 
 
 how far a little " soft sawder" will go. Donohoe and 
 I were comparing notes ; we perfectly agreed, that 
 once having kissed the Blarney- stone, a man may 
 travel through America in the most agreeable 
 manner possible. He lays it on thick, I only 
 gently butter, the result is much the same, the 
 people will do anything for you. No one can 
 understand American peculiarities who has not 
 travelled in the States ; of that I am quite certain. 
 Last evening the sunset far exceeded any I ever 
 saw before ; the western sky was gorgeous in its 
 golden glory, the deep orange tints extended round 
 the entire horizon, and as there is hardly any twi 
 light, ere the colour departed the stars shone out, 
 the golden circlet gradually mellowing down, until 
 the deep blue sky absorbed its fainting rays, and 
 the crescent moon and bright stars formed a sky 
 of unrivalled splendour. Our favourite reminis 
 cence of Turin was nothing to it; and these are 
 the ordinary sunsets of this favoured climate. It 
 is now as warm as August in England, and we 
 may have it so for near two months, till the end of 
 the Indian summer. * * * 
 
108 
 
 MADISON CITY, STATE OF WISCONSIN, 
 
 October 1st, 1857. 
 
 MY DEAR MAMMA, 
 
 ** 
 
 MY last letter I finished at Buffalo; after 
 its completion I called on the Hon. Mr. Fillmore, 
 ex-President of the United States, but like Cin- 
 cinnatus, returned to his quiet domestic life. He 
 is a lawyer by profession and an Unitarian by faith; 
 he resides in a small wooden house in Franklin 
 Street, in the greatest simplicity of style. We had 
 a long and interesting conversation for about an 
 hour on the general state of the country; he has 
 lately spent a year in Europe, for the first time in 
 his life, and was delighted with the old country, as 
 they all call England ; he regretted my stay was so 
 short in Buffalo. I told him I was extremely glad 
 that I had been favoured with an interview with 
 him, which I should always remember with pleasure. 
 According to the plan I told you I had laid down 
 for our route, in the evening we went on board the 
 Louisiana, bound for Mackinac and Green Bay. 
 
 Mr. H went with us, and when he saw the 
 
 steamer, dissuaded us from going by her, being an 
 old, dirty freight boat, so we at once changed our 
 plans and route, and went on board a magnificent 
 
169 
 
 steamer, the Mississippi, bound for Detroit in 
 Michigan. To give you some idea of these boats, 
 the one just named is 350 feet long, 2,500 tons 
 burden, carries 2,000 passengers, and the engineer 
 told me the engine was 1,250 horse-power; this, 
 however, I doubted, as I could not see that there 
 was sufficient strength of metal to transmit so much 
 power. We started at ten o clock at night, and bid 
 
 adieu to Donohoe and H , from both of whom 
 
 we had received all the kindness and attention they 
 could bestow upon us. Kotherham and I had a 
 state-room to ourselves, and soon went to bed, after 
 making the disagreeable discovery that it was a 
 temperance boat, and therefore we could not get a 
 glass of brandy and water before retiring; however, 
 my good flask supplied the means, and so to sleep. 
 Awakened early on Sunday morning, by some 
 horrid children in the next state-room, elevating 
 their voices and weeping. Going out after break 
 fast, we found we were quite out of sight of land, 
 and so far as appearance went, might have been on 
 the Atlantic. The steamer is magnificently got up : 
 the cabin is 300 feet long, all white and gold, with 
 velvet-covered seats, marble-topped tables, and a 
 sheet of plate-glass, with a rail before it, so placed, 
 that you can see the engine at work. We had 
 dinner on board, and about three o clock drew into 
 the land; we passed the Canada coast near, and 
 saw the dear old flag of England waving there, and 
 about four or half-past, landed at Detroit, and took 
 
170 
 
 ourselves and traps to the Biddle House, which 
 we found pretty fair. 
 
 Detroit is an old town, and is situated on the 
 river between Lakes Erie and St. Glair, Buffalo 
 being at the other end of Lake Erie. Originally 
 founded by the French, it is now progressing 
 rapidly, and laid out with that same future expec 
 tation of greatness, which so peculiarly distin 
 guishes this western country, streets extending 
 for miles, and I must also say, containing some 
 really handsome houses. 
 
 It came on to rain heavily, and so, being nearly 
 dark, we returned to the hotel, resolved to depart 
 the next morning, there being nothing much more 
 to see. We found the pillars in the front of the 
 hotel cased with strong iron, and on enquiring the 
 reason were told that the people are so much in 
 the habit of putting their feet up that they had worn 
 six inches into the pillars, which, being only brick, 
 stuccoed over, would not stand such wear and tear. 
 
 We got up at half-past five the next morning, 
 and at half-past seven started by the Michigan 
 Central Railway for Chicago. The road runs 
 through a wild country, for the most part pri 
 meval forests, without a house or erection visible 
 for miles ; it was the Lightning Express, as they 
 term their fast trains, and did the 282 miles 
 in thirteen hours and a half. For some dis 
 tance we ran along the shores of Lake Michigan, 
 which being excessively sandy, thrown up into hil- 
 
171 
 
 locks, had much the appearance of old Southport, 
 with the tide in. The waves broke on the coast, 
 and again we could have believed it was not a lake, 
 but the great ocean itself that was before us. We 
 then came out on the prairie, and saw a level 
 country for miles around, richly clothed with grass, 
 and clumps of small trees here and there, little 
 islands in the grassy ocean, and at six ran on a 
 kind of breakwater, on piles, into the station at 
 Chicago, and soon found ourselves at an excellent 
 hotel, the Richmond House, almost new. After 
 tea we sallied out for a walk, and found a town in 
 process of construction on a stupendous scale. 
 
 Chicago was at first built too low on the swampy 
 plain, and now they are absolutely raising the 
 whole town seven feet at the least, in some places 
 more than that, making the gradients of the 
 streets all new and repaving ; instead of the old 
 plank side-walks, constructing them of splendid 
 blocks of granite. The evenings are now short, so 
 we returned to our hotel after a short stroll, which 
 proved to us there was something to see here, and 
 then had our first game at billiards, in the room 
 attached to the hotel. We went to bed, and were 
 nearly devoured by mosquitoes, and suffered very 
 much from the irritation of the bite. 
 
 After breakfast we called upon Mr. W , the 
 
 English consul, to whom A D gave me 
 
 a note, and very kind and attentive he has been 
 to us. 
 
172 
 
 I told you that money matters were queer here, 
 but since I first came out they have gone from 
 bad to worse. Gold has almost disappeared from 
 circulation ; the banks are breaking, or bursting, 
 as they call it, so that the ordinary paper currency is 
 very unsafe to hold, requiring great circumspection. 
 
 Mr. W is in the corn and lumber trade, 
 
 and told me one of their oldest bankers had stopped 
 that day, being the first proof that the pressure had 
 reached them so far West. He took us a good 
 deal about the town, and in the evening we went 
 to his house, and took tea with him. 
 
 In the course of the next morning there was a 
 run upon another bank, and we went to see the 
 crowds going in to draw out their deposits. This 
 was a Mr. Swift s bank, and that did not re-open 
 the next day. 
 
 Chicago is, without exception, the most magnifi 
 cent in its plan of any western city. In 1830 its 
 population was 0; in 1840,4,400; in 1850, 28,200; 
 and now, in 1857, it is quite 110,000. I was very 
 fortunate in meeting with so excellent a cicerone as 
 
 Mr. W . In the course of the afternoon we 
 
 went about the town, and saw some very splendid 
 new churches in course of construction, and met, 
 driving in a dirty little buggy, a man who came up to 
 
 see one of the Presbyterian churches. Mr. W 
 
 introduced me to him ; fifteen years ago he was a 
 labouring man; he has just given 100,000 dollars, 
 more than <20,000., towards the foundation of a new 
 
173 
 
 university for the State of Illinois, in which Chicago 
 is situated. Going along the same street, Wabash 
 Avenue, we found what you and I have often talked 
 about, a house going quietly down the middle of 
 the street on rollers, to be removed from some 
 valuable site to one less costly. The house was 
 wooden, with brick chimneys, two stories high, 
 moving along as composedly as possible, and nobody 
 thinking it anything of a curiosity except Rother- 
 ham and myself. We then went to some of the 
 large corn warehouses, Chicago being the great 
 centre of the trade in cereals. The cars on the 
 railways run into the warehouses full of grain ; a 
 man goes in, and shovels out the wheat or corn into 
 a kind of funnel, where there is a tube containing a 
 number of small buckets fixed on a strap, and 
 passing over pulleys at the top of the building. 
 These take up the grain, and without any expendi 
 ture of human labour, convey it to the top story, 
 where it is emptied into large bins. The action of 
 the elevator, as it is called, is similar to the dredg 
 ing machine. The large bins are gauged, and hold 
 certain quantities, and from them the grain drops 
 into other bins, where it is weighed, and in connec 
 tion with them are large tubes, so that as soon as 
 say 500 bushels are weighed, the tube can be 
 directed into the hold of a ship, lying by the side 
 of the warehouse, and the grain at once shot in. 
 In this way vast quantities of grain are handled 
 without employing many people, (wages being high,) 
 
174 
 
 and therefore at much less cost than with us. The 
 cars that have brought the grain are then loaded 
 with lumber, and dispatched through the unwooded 
 prairie country of Illinois. The great part of the 
 timber comes from the pineries of Canada, and 
 these to some extent furnish the return cargo for 
 the wheat exported to the provinces. 
 
 We also visited a new elevator warehouse, in 
 
 course of erection. I pointed out to Mr. W 
 
 a circumstance that has much struck me here. 
 The Irish labourers with us at home insist on 
 many absurd regulations, in order, as they imagine, 
 to secure their own employment. Among the rest, 
 they will have all bricks carried up in hods, and, 
 therefore, demand so many men to be engaged for 
 so many stories. Here, however, they are quite 
 content to have the materials drawn up in buckets 
 by a windlass ; and, moreover, when they do carry 
 the hod, use a much larger one than they will in 
 England. 
 
 We then walked through some other parts of the 
 
 town, and then went to Mr. W s to tea, where 
 
 we had a roasted prairie hen. I wish you could 
 taste them; they are like pheasants in flavour, but 
 the flesh is the colour of grouse, and they partake 
 more of the grouse nature ; they are most excellent. 
 We had some at the hotel the first night we 
 arrived, but they were broiled and burnt, a very 
 different affair to those we had at our friend s. We 
 sat till near twelve, and went into the position and 
 
175 
 
 statistics of Chicago to some extent. It is the 
 Malines of America (as to being the central point 
 for railways), and is the centre of some 3,000 miles 
 of railway. The railway system, the Mississippi 
 canal, and the consequent rapid opening of the 
 country in the vicinity, have combined to pro 
 duce as their effect, the apparently miraculous 
 development of Chicago. The warehouses and 
 stores are already splendid buildings rising up 
 on every side with cast-iron fronts, or else faced 
 with Athens marble (Athens being not in Greece, 
 but Illinois :) the streets of immense width, all being 
 paved and well-sewered at once, so that with the 
 labour going on everywhere in building houses, 
 churches, stores, paving streets, and so forth, Chi 
 cago seems like a town being made to order at once. 
 Owing to the alterations of the levels, you are 
 always going up and down wooden steps on the 
 side -walks from one level to another. 
 
 When we left in the evening the fire-bells were 
 ringing, and after trying to discover where it was, 
 found at last that it was a steamer out on the lake, 
 the light of which we could distinctly see. I be- 
 believe one man was lost, all the rest saved. The 
 fire system is good : there are men always stationed 
 at different points, and if they see a fire, ring a bell 
 which alarms the town, and then tolling it so many 
 times, indicates the number of the ward as a guide 
 to the fire engines, which are also manned by 
 volunteer fire companies. The system is well 
 
ire 
 
 carried out, but leads to much drinking and dissi 
 pation amongst the young men. I cannot help 
 thinking that paid fire-brigades would be better; 
 however, this is the genius of the country. 
 
 When we arrived at Chicago, we found that the 
 only reliable steamer for the Sault St. Marie sailed 
 the Saturday before ; also learned that we were 
 rather late in the season for going so far north, 
 and therefore with much regret, but yielding to 
 good advice and sound reason, abandoned the idea. 
 The journey to the Sault St. Marie should be made 
 about July or August. 
 
 On Wednesday morning I went with Mr. W 
 
 to see the land register system, with which I was 
 much gratified. The whole states are divided into 
 towns, each thirty- six square miles, six miles each 
 way; and the towns are divided into thirty-six 
 square mile divisions, each of these into four, and 
 these again subdivided, and by commencing from 
 the base line of the states, the whole district can 
 be laid out more accurately; and each purchaser 
 finds and obtains his own plot of ground by the 
 description given. The purchase is duly registered 
 in the land office, and that constitutes an undis 
 puted title, even if the original be lost. Each sale 
 of the land is registered in the same way, and thus 
 a purchaser can, on reference, at once see through 
 what hands the plot has passed, and its exact condi 
 tion with reference to mortgages, for any mortgage 
 not registered is not legal. 
 
177 
 
 In each town one square mile is appropriated for 
 school purposes, and the proceeds of its sale set 
 aside as a fund to pay masters, and so forth. In 
 Chicago the school lands have been sold for 
 1,000,000 dollars, still retaining a good price. It 
 so happens that the town itself stands on the 
 school lands, thus making them much more valu 
 able. Mr. C showed us all the books, maps, 
 
 and registers, and even the description of the first 
 plot sold in Illinois, at least in Cork County, in 
 which Chicago is situated. After dinner we went 
 to visit one of the common schools, and a Mr. 
 
 H , one of the local school managers, went 
 
 round with us. We found a well ordered, quiet, 
 clean school, containing children of all classes, 
 from little negroes to the children, boys and girls, 
 of the wealthier inhabitants. The teachers were 
 females, except one male, who took the highest 
 division of all. We heard some of the classes 
 read, and they read well. Such a system would fail 
 utterly with us. The middle classes would not 
 send their children to the same school and class as 
 the children of the operatives, and unless a high 
 degree of moral training exists through all classes, 
 enforced by home example, such a system must be 
 productive of a general lowering of the standard 
 of morality and civilization. The lower and poorer 
 classes are the most numerous here, as elsewhere, 
 and the influence of their children must exceed 
 
 the influence of the better class, and these must 
 M 
 
ire 
 
 suffer more or less by close contact with those who 
 have not good examples at home. Every human 
 being is equal, that is the social doctrine of the 
 United States. It is not true; and in establishing 
 this principle, society does and must suffer. I do 
 not wish so soon to form a hasty judgment, but I 
 feel certain that America is deficient in the refined 
 society we enjoy. In fact it is a half civilised 
 country. This they will not acknowledge, yet their 
 ordinary life proves it; take, for instance, the 
 social ordinance about ladies. At every table seats 
 are reserved for them, rooms at hotels specially set 
 apart for them, in railways they can command any 
 seat they fancy. * It does not appear to be 
 
 seen that a reference to history would prove that in 
 all semi- civilised states women were surrounded 
 with special ordinances for their protection, because 
 without that they would have been subject to all 
 kinds of bad treatment ; and, by similar reasoning, 
 that unless places were set apart for ladies, in their 
 rough condition, they could not get places for 
 themselves, and at public table d hotes, we, being 
 unaccompanied with ladies, have to sit below a lot 
 of women, ignorant, vain, over-dressed, not an idea 
 beyond hoops, and as for the men, coarse, dirty, 
 chewing, spitting, dollar- worshippers. They have 
 a deal of energy, but they are a selfish, un;iUached, 
 unloveable people, without local associations. I 
 do not mean to say that this is entirely the result 
 of their institutions. Undoubtedly, in this great 
 
IN 
 
 western country they are necessarily rough. The 
 men are die pioneers of future grandeur, but most 
 conceited ones; and whilst yon are willing to 
 acknowledge all that is good and great, yon are 
 indisposed to knock under, and say further that 
 they are the greatest people on "ainh^ The time 
 to try their institutions is not come yet The vast 
 regions of unoccupied, unowned land, afford a Tent 
 for the numbers of people, and until these are 
 taken up. and die real struggle for fife commences, 
 their institutions may exist. ETen in oar snort 
 journey, we can see the imJtitndes pressing to the 
 West., and on die roads meet with rast numbers 
 who are looking for a home in the new states of 
 Minnesota and Nebraska, certainly different to the 
 settlers in the East. It is something to he the 
 leaden in cuhmting these vast regions, but so full 
 are they of doDars, so eager to get rich in a hurry, 
 so selfish in their calculations, that all poetry, all 
 
 H thought our classes ought to mix at 
 
 schools; I told him I should be sorry to see it. 
 On this subject I wfll not say anymore atpresen^ but 
 leare it until I have seat more of die country. 
 
 I grre yon my impressions as they arise; and 
 thus, at first, Ihey may seem contradictory, until I 
 am ahk to regud the state of society as a whole. 
 "".-"-: :.-:; >.:--.--; -;- -; v .- r:r T" -~: : : -:r. r.- 
 refined soeietr Aey have plenty of romgh. and the 
 
180 
 
 whole tone is lower than I expected, so that I am 
 the more convinced that they owe their position 
 to-day, not to any mental, physical, or moral supe 
 riority, but to the mere chance of possessing a vast 
 extent of territory. 
 
 On Wednesday evening we had a very heavy 
 thunder shower, and evidence that there would be 
 some broken weather, and were not so sorry then that 
 we were not at the Sault St. Marie. We intended 
 all along to go to St. Paul s, the capital of Minnesota, 
 and on Thursday morning we set out for Madison, 
 on our way there, taking the steamer on the Missis 
 sippi, at Prairie du Chien. For the most part the 
 railroad passed through a pretty country, not heavily 
 but picturesquely timbered, with but few evidences 
 of population on the route. Janesville is the largest 
 town ; and then a forty-five miles more brought us to 
 Madison, which is considered, in point of situation, 
 the most beautiful town in the States. It rained 
 heavily when we arrived, October 2nd; but this 
 morning, though dark and gloomy, we have seen 
 something of the place: wide roads deep in mud, 
 being uiipaved; plank walks, scattered buildings, 
 a State Hall, and other public edifices, though 
 grand and unfinished, yet constitute the town. 
 It is situated by four Lakes, Mendota and 
 Mennona being the largest, the town standing on 
 the neck of land between them. The silent woods 
 cover their shores, as yet untainted by man s 
 struggles for gain; in fine weather it must be 
 
181 
 
 beautiful. There is a large infusion of the German 
 element, and their gutturals are heard all over the 
 place: the population about 11,000. In 1837 
 there was only one log hut here ; for the first nine 
 years they reached 281; the second nine to 4,000; 
 now, in two years, have added 7,000, making the 
 total 11,000. This afternoon we start to Prairie 
 du Chien, and meet the steamer. 
 
 ON BOAKD THE STEAMEK " MILWAUKEE," 
 
 SATUEDAY, October 3rd. 
 
 I AM trying to spend an hour chatting with you, 
 but I am almost afraid the quivering table will 
 scarcely allow of any feats of penmanship. We left 
 for Prairie du Chien at half-past four, the country 
 in appearance much the same as from Chicago to 
 Madison ; but, as we approached the Mississippi, 
 the land became more thrown up in mounds, and 
 appeared more sandy ; no thick wood, but a fair 
 growth of shrub. About ten we arrived at Prairie 
 du Chien, and immediately went on board the 
 steamer, which we found waiting for us. It did 
 not, however, start until seven o clock this morning ; 
 but being no hotel there, of course we were glad to 
 pass the night on board, and a most extraordinary 
 boat she is, consisting of a flat-bottomed construc 
 tion, about level with the water, on which is built a 
 deck, perhaps ten feet above the lower one, sup- 
 
182 
 
 ported on pillars, and open all round. This space 
 is occupied by the boilers, which are small, high- 
 pressure ones, with a donkey engine to pump the 
 water in ; and then, at some distance, close to each 
 paddle-wheel, there is a separate engine, one drives 
 the starboard, the other the port paddle, perfectly 
 unconnected with each other, so that, in some of 
 the rapid bends, one engine can stop and the other 
 keep on, so as to turn the boat in a short space. 
 The rest of the space is occupied with cargo and 
 fuel, the latter being entirely wood. The second 
 deck contains the cabin, which I am sure must be 
 at least 200 feet long, with a row of state rooms on 
 each side, containing two or four berths each. The 
 grand saloon is very pretty, painted enameled 
 white, with paneled ceiling, and gothic pendants, 
 slightly gilt : the perspective effect is extremely 
 good. At eight we had breakfast, dinner at one, tea 
 at six ; and I wish you could have seen the darkies 
 set the cloth : it was a rich treat. They seem to 
 have an idea of the curve of beauty. One had 
 a measure, a small staff, and placed each glass by 
 rule, actually measuring its place, and putting 
 each successive glass an inch farther than its 
 neighbour, until the centre of the table was 
 reached, and then drawn in again to the other 
 end, a curve of regular shape was formed : the 
 knives, forks, and spoons were somehow fastened 
 together by the prongs of the forks, and then 
 artistically fixed in the tumblers. After this each 
 
183 
 
 dish was, by measure again, placed in its position, 
 and, when the whole was completed, the darkies 
 collected together at one end, and, with heads 
 leaning aside in an excited manner, stood to enjoy 
 the sight of their own skill and ingenuity. One 
 then rings a bell, and the ladies take their seats. 
 As soon as they are seated, another hits a gong a 
 tremendous blow, as a signal that the male crowd 
 may sit down to feed. Oh dear ! it is beyond 
 measure amusing ; and the stuff we eat, heaven 
 only knows what it is ; however, we must eat, and 
 down it goes without question. How English ladies 
 could travel here, I do not know : I know at least 
 one that would decidedly starve ; and as for my 
 dear governor, the very idea of seeing him at such 
 a table, would make one split with laughing. 
 
 I have met several very intelligent people on 
 board, and as you know I usually make friends, we 
 are sociable enough. At all events, it is no use 
 travelling in a country without you can be " Hail, 
 fellow, well met ! " and least of all in America. 
 Keserve begets reserve, and you learn nothing; 
 whereas by throwing off our English reserve, I 
 have had everything of importance pointed out to 
 me, and every information given me. 
 
 As soon as breakfast was over, I went out to look 
 at the Mississippi, and if I were to tell you the 
 grandeur of the scenery through which we have 
 passed to-day, you would think I was romancing. 
 This majestic river, grand even here, 2,000 miles 
 
184 
 
 from the sea, flows through a valley of varying 
 width, from four to six or seven miles across; 
 bounded by swelling hills, clothed with trees, or 
 bare rocky bluffs, with a scantier growth of wood 
 upon them. The stream crosses the valley now on 
 one side, now on the other, and its entire course is 
 varied by numberless small islands, consisting 
 entirely of the alluvial deposit brought down by the 
 river, which is thick and turbid, from the large 
 amount of earthy matter mixed with its waters. 
 The scenery is ever changing, and you have glimpses 
 from time to time, up lovely valleys, extending into 
 the country beyond ; fine wooded amphitheatres ; 
 and then again a succession of magnificent bluffs 
 some towering high in the air, with their summits 
 part bare and rocky, often assuming the shape of 
 old castles, keeps, and towers; all around savage, 
 wild, and lonely; no town, no sign of life, as 
 though we were the first on these mysterious waters, 
 and then coming suddenly on a log hut close to 
 the river s edge, miles away from any visible human 
 abode, inhabited by a family of lumberers, who cut 
 firewood to supply the steamers ; a life that must 
 be, I should imagine, desolate and lonely, to a 
 degree insupportable. We met several large rafts 
 of timber floating down stream, with perhaps 
 twenty men on each, with their huts, cooking 
 apparatus, and so forth, going down to St. Louis, 
 or even perhaps New Orleans, where they break up 
 the rafts and sell the timber, returning by the 
 
185 
 
 steamers. The territories of Iowa, which we 
 skirted, and Minnesota, where we are now, are 
 almost unsettled, although towns are laid out and 
 railways planned, with all the speed of Yankeeism. 
 A person pointed out to me a beautiful site for a 
 town, which is called Dacotah, consisting of a small 
 wooden warehouse and four wooden houses, yet, in 
 point of situation, the most lovely I ever saw : the 
 noble stream in front; a nearly level plain, extending 
 about seven miles into the country, backed by a mag 
 nificent amphitheatre of wooded hills, rounding to 
 the river with a wide and effective sweep in the mid 
 dle; the hills came, as though intending to reach 
 the river, and suddenly falling back form a second 
 semicircle, broken in the middle by a valley appar 
 ently running into the back country; and then the 
 hills again, continuing until they terminated in a 
 fine bluff, a sheltered spot, which some day may be 
 the site of a large and thriving city. 
 
 The names and the associations here are all 
 Indian. We are near the battle grounds of the 
 Sioux and the Chippewas, and I am told I may 
 chance to see Hole-in-the-Day, the Chippewa chief, 
 at St. Paul s, who, I believe, is a splendid specimen 
 of the Indian, six feet six inches high ; he was so 
 named because at the moment of his birth the 
 sun suddenly broke out of a dense cloud ; he is 
 believed to bear a charmed life, and when a party 
 of Sioux came to a house in which he was, intend 
 ing to kill him, they covered their heads with their 
 
186 
 
 blankets, and pressed their faces to the windows, 
 to make sure he was there; he noticed something, 
 and rising, went calmly to the window, and placed 
 his face close to theirs in the inside, and they were 
 So terrified at his steady and determined glance that 
 they turned and fled. 
 
 Unfortunately the day has been gloomy and 
 misty; I should like to see the river in all 
 the glory of a brilliant day. The leaves are touched 
 with autumn tints, and the scarlet ivy and other 
 gaudy- coloured plants mingle well with the dark 
 green of the trees yet unaffected by approaching 
 winter. We shall arrive at St. Paul s about two 
 o clock to-morrow afternoon, Sunday, the distance 
 being 302 miles from Prairie du Chien, and then 
 ninety-one miles from Madison makes a pretty 
 long journey. 
 
 This Upper Mississippi far exceeds my expecta 
 tions ; I did not conceive anything so fine as the 
 reality, and I believe this magnificent scenery- 
 extends for 600 miles. There is now the charm of 
 nature on it ; we see it as it is, fresh from the 
 hand of God, untouched by man, for the few 
 scattered abodes are as nothing in a distance of 
 302 miles, what I have always longed to see real, 
 wild, untamed nature, and it is grand, and fills the 
 soul with feelings of awe and reverence. 
 
 I am in a good hotel, floating on these great 
 waters, which, twenty years ago, knew only the birch 
 canoe of the Indian; civilization and wild, savage life 
 
187 
 
 thus close together, side by side. It is wonderful, 
 and I feel it to be so. I wish you could see this 
 scenery, it would fill your mind with thoughts and 
 images that could never be lost ; I know no one 
 that would and could so thoroughly enjoy it, but it 
 is too far away, at least 5,000 miles from home. I 
 feel, however, that I am as much under the care 
 and protection of God here as at home ; here I see 
 His works in their natural grandeur, where I can 
 feel their influence on my heart and mind. 
 
 SUNDAY EVENING, ST. PAUL S, MINNESOTA. 
 
 So far I wrote last night, before retiring to our nar 
 row and small state-room, just space enough for one 
 person to stand, not containing any of the ordinary 
 conveniences of a bed-room. After dressing, every 
 passenger had to go into a room with four marble 
 wash basins, and scrub in common, wiping our 
 selves on towels (round towels) provided for all, 
 republican equality with a vengeance, rather too 
 much for one ! 
 
 When I got up this morning, I found that in the 
 night, at one of the stopping places, a small steam 
 engine was landed, and in taking the fly-wheel off 
 the steamer the gangway plank broke; the men 
 jumped off, but one poor fellow slipped, and the 
 
186 
 
 blankets, and pressed their faces to the windows, 
 to make sure he was there; he noticed something, 
 and rising, went calmly to the window, and placed 
 his face close to theirs in the inside, and they were 
 so terrified at his steady and determined glance that 
 they turned and fled. 
 
 Unfortunately the day has been gloomy and 
 misty; I should like to see the river in all 
 the glory of a brilliant day. The leaves are touched 
 with autumn tints, and the scarlet ivy and other 
 gaudy- coloured plants mingle well with the dark 
 green of the trees yet unaffected by approaching 
 winter. We shall arrive at St. Paul s about two 
 o clock to-morrow afternoon, Sunday, the distance 
 being 302 miles from Prairie du Chien, and then 
 ninety-one miles from Madison makes a pretty 
 long journey. 
 
 This Upper Mississippi far exceeds my expecta 
 tions ; I did not conceive anything so fine as the 
 reality, and I believe this magnificent scenery 
 extends for 600 miles. There is now the charm of 
 nature on it ; we see it as it is, fresh from the 
 hand of God, untouched by man, for the few 
 scattered abodes are as nothing in a distance of 
 302 miles, what I have always longed to see real, 
 wild, untamed nature, and it is grand, and fills the 
 soul with feelings of awe and reverence. 
 
 I am in a good hotel, floating on these great 
 waters, which, twenty years ago, knew only the birch 
 canoe of the Indian; civilization and wild, savage life 
 
187 
 
 thus close together, side by side. It is wonderful, 
 and I feel it to be so. I wish you could see this 
 scenery, it would fill your mind with thoughts and 
 images that could never be lost ; I know no one 
 that would and could so thoroughly enjoy it, but it 
 is too far away, at least 5,000 miles from home. I 
 feel, however, that I am as much under the care 
 and protection of God here as at home ; here I see 
 His works in their natural grandeur, where I can 
 feel their influence on my heart and mind. 
 
 SUNDAY EVENING, ST. PAUL S, MINNESOTA. 
 
 So far I wrote last night, before retiring to our nar 
 row and small state-room, just space enough for one 
 person to stand, not containing any of the ordinary 
 conveniences of a bed-room. After dressing, every 
 passenger had to go into a room with four marble 
 wash basins, and scrub in common, wiping our 
 selves on towels (round towels) provided for all, 
 republican equality with a vengeance, rather too 
 much for one ! 
 
 When I got up this morning, I found that in the 
 night, at one of the stopping places, a small steam 
 engine was landed, and in taking the fly-wheel off 
 the steamer the gangway plank broke; the men 
 jumped off, but one poor fellow slipped, and the 
 
188 
 
 wheel crashed upon him, cut one leg clean off at 
 the ancle, and smashed the other one most fear 
 fully. There was a young M.D. on board, going 
 up country, to settle, and he attended him, but 
 having no means at hand, and no help, the poor 
 creature was relieved from his intense sufferings by 
 death, in about four hours. We brought the dead 
 body on to St. Paul s ; his wife and children live a 
 few miles from here. The deck was stained with 
 his blood. I saw the body, covered with a piece of 
 sailcloth, but did not see the injured limb. I was 
 shocked to see how little notice, or even care, was 
 taken of the occurrence ; it seemed forgotten long 
 before we got to St. Paul s ; so little do they heed 
 life in this country. 
 
 St. Paul s stands on a bluff, overhanging the 
 Mississippi, and in point of situation is truly mag 
 nificent; at present it consists of scattered wooden 
 houses, with some few brick and stone buildings. 
 One hotel, the Fuller House, is on the grand scale 
 of other places in this country. Fancy a town 
 four years old, with an hotel larger than the 
 Queen s, full of people. I believe the population is 
 about 12,000, and is to be one of the greatest places 
 in the States. It has a theatre, several churches, 
 and a large cathedral Catholic, I think, in pro 
 cess of erection. Oliphant s description of the place 
 would not do now, although I recognised his sketch 
 of the place as it was, in approaching up the river. 
 We landed to-day about one o clock. The river is 
 
189 
 
 beautiful, but there was not the same amount of 
 fine scenery that we passed through yesterday ; we 
 had on one side more prairie country, but for the 
 greater part of the way the banks are most densely 
 wooded. You cannot imagine any navigation more 
 difficult than that of the Upper Mississippi ; in 
 addition to multitudes of small islands, the river 
 bends about a great deal, and is full of shallow 
 places, we were aground twice to-day, and our 
 steamer only draws thirty inches of water, so you 
 may easily imagine how shallow it is, when such a 
 boat has not sufficient water to float in. The 
 pilots are highly paid, 400 or 500 dollars a month, 
 during the seven months navigation is open. I 
 have been highly delighted with the sail, which is 
 the most interesting in point of scenery I ever saw 
 in my life. There is one wide part of the river 
 called Lake Pepin, which is I believe very beautiful; 
 this we unfortunately passed in the night, but we 
 must try and see it going down again. We have 
 now travelled, including the sea voyage, about 
 5,867 miles since leaving Liverpool. 
 
 We shall visit the falls of St. Anthony, Minne 
 apolis, and Minnehaha, or the "Laughing Waters," 
 and then turn our backs on this rough western 
 country. I am glad I have seen it; it well repays a 
 visit : 110 one without this could form any idea of what 
 is doing by the vast expansion going on, the uncom 
 mon extent of country becoming gradually settled. 
 But for those who prefer the pleasures of civilized 
 
190 
 
 society, and the comforts of a more settled and less 
 excitable condition, this part would be to them a 
 most dreary exile. There is no conversation but of 
 dollars, town-lots, pre-empting, driving bargains, 
 and fast trotting horses. They say St. Paul s is 
 founded by broken-down eastern men that is from 
 the Atlantic States and as I think I have said in 
 a former letter, no man is thought the worse of for 
 failing. I was told that if a man fails, unless he has 
 put aside enough to start with again, he is considered 
 a fool, so low is the standard of commercial 
 morality; people say St. Paul s is the fastest, the 
 most dissipated, and most immoral place in the 
 States. I suppose it is like a young man sowing 
 his wild oats. The amount of gambling is fearful; 
 but, I understand, is done less publicly than it 
 was a year or two ago. 
 
 Ourselves, and an English nobleman with two 
 friends, are the only real English at present en route; 
 in this part of the world it is almost untrodden 
 ground, but I fancy it will attract many sporting 
 men, as there is bear, buffalo, and deer shooting in 
 the neighbourhood. Minnesotian life is rather 
 curious. 
 
191 
 
 ON BOAED THE " GALENA," 
 
 SATURDAY, October 7th. 
 
 MY DEAR MAMMA, 
 
 MY last letter I dispatched from St. Paul s, 
 I hope in time for the steamer: I ended by saying 
 Minnesotian life was curious. On Sunday evening 
 I went down to the bar of the hotel to get some 
 whiskey and water. I must tell you that the bar 
 of the hotel in America is a separate institution; 
 literally a bar fitted up like an English gin shop, 
 with a counter, at which people stand up to drink : 
 and here everything not drank at table, such as 
 wine, &c. is taken, and to which people have access 
 from the street. A young man, a gentleman, (all are 
 gentlemen here,) asked me if I was English, I said 
 yes; he then enquired my name, I told him; he then 
 told me his, and at once introduced me to about a dozen 
 men, all of whom cordially shook hands: then my 
 introducer said, " Drinks for the crowd," and politely 
 requested me to drink with them; of course refusal 
 would be considered bad manners, and I joined them ; 
 I wished them to drink with me, but they would not 
 allow me to pay for anything. I got afraid at last 
 of taking my cigar case out, for if I was not smoking 
 I had a dozen thrust in my hand from as many of 
 my new acquaintance, not one of whose names I 
 
have the least recollection of. Everybody that en 
 tered the bar was immediately introduced, and asked 
 me to drink, so I was at last compelled as politely 
 as I could, to decline such repeated overtures. 
 This mania for introducing is an extraordinary 
 feature in this western country, everyone introduces 
 everyone else, and really means a species of hos 
 pitable kindness, which no one can take amiss. 
 
 There is an American and his friend staying at 
 the hotel, who came with us on board the steamer. 
 
 Mr. D is a good-natured fellow, resides at 
 
 and is very wealthy, has perhaps <30,000. a year, 
 a great sporting man, the owner of the fastest horses 
 in the States ; he is lately married, and made a tour 
 in Europe for his wedding- trip, he is a regular fast 
 fellow. They afforded us the greatest fun imagin 
 able, and introduced us to quantities of people; 
 giving us an interesting specimen of the wealthy 
 youth of America. I have promised to visit him at 
 
 ; they had so many friends that the drinks 
 
 became overpowering, and Mr. D and his friend 
 
 Jack S swayed about on their legs in a very 
 
 suggestive manner. One of their friends was an 
 Indian trader, who when he became a little elevated, 
 danced the great medicine dance, and otherwise 
 comported himself in a somewhat curious manner. 
 
 I think these bars very injurious places; I am 
 sure there is engendered a great habit of tippling, 
 in short, I fear I must rescind the opinion I ex 
 pressed that Americans were very temperate; it is 
 
193 
 
 true they drink but little, at dinner you rarely see 
 a bottle of wine on the table, only the bar is their 
 great resort, and drink after drink must leave many 
 of them intoxicated, and get them into such habits. 
 All classes mingle here, and a man of education 
 and property may be taking his cocktail, mint julep, 
 brandy smash, sherry cobbler, or whiskey straight, 
 side by side with the roughest of the rough. 
 
 ST. Louis, MISSOURI, 
 
 SUNDAY, October llth. 
 
 I FOUND myself obliged to abandon the idea of 
 writing on board the steamer Galena, and when I 
 look back at the two pages I have written, I almost 
 fear they will prove an interesting puzzle. The 
 vibration of the boat was most excessive, and so 
 I gave up in despair. 
 
 The amusing manners of a western city gave us 
 plenty of occupation, and we were compelled to 
 acknowledge the hotel at St. Paul s the very worst 
 we have stayed in ; large and pretentious, the table 
 was filthy, and the food execrable, but the Fuller 
 House having a monopoly in this town, being the 
 one large hotel, the proprietors seek not their 
 visitors comfort, but to make as much money as 
 they can in the least time. 
 
 Monday proving a splendid day, we took a car- 
 
 N 
 
194 
 
 riage, and drove over the lovely undulating open 
 prairie to St. Anthony, which is a thriving town at 
 the extreme head of the navigation of the Missis 
 sippi, which here pours from a higher level, over the 
 Falls of St. Anthony. These falls have been pretty 
 some time, but the town being a great place for the 
 timber trade, the water power is taken advantage 
 of, and a large number of saw-mills are erected 
 there, which, being rough wooden sheds, sur 
 rounded with split wood, sawdust, and shavings, 
 don t add to the beauty of the scene. The main 
 fall is so filled and choked with logs of wood which 
 have floated down the river, strayed from rafts, 
 that all the attractive features are lost, and you see 
 water pouring over and amongst large upright and 
 slant right pieces and trees in all directions. The 
 volume of water is, however, considerable, and in 
 any other country would be thought grand ; but of 
 course the idea of Niagara renders all others small 
 and insignificant. We went into several saw mills, 
 and saw the trees drawn up out of the water and 
 cut up into deals, in a very short time, the stouter 
 and rougher pieces being made into shingles for 
 roofing houses, and clap-boards for outside weather 
 boarding; planing and tenoning machines were 
 also at work, so that in one place we saw the rough 
 tree, just as felled in the solitary forest, and panel 
 doors and window frames, with the other house 
 timber, all ready to put a frame-house together at 
 the shortest notice. St. Anthony will be a large, 
 
195 
 
 wealthy, and important place ; it has the elements 
 of prosperity, and with that vast water power must 
 in a few years be one of the most thriving towns 
 in the north west. Crossing a suspension bridge 
 over the Mississippi (this was the extreme north 
 western part of our route) we came to another 
 town, Minneapolis, why built, or what for, I cannot 
 imagine, except by speculators in town lots ; per 
 haps they intend to make it the capital of Minne 
 sota, as they seem to fix on capital towns in the 
 most arbitrary manner possible. They may have 
 a share of the falls, being on the opposite side of 
 the river from St. Anthony, but the formation of 
 the land, and their position relative to the falls, 
 are not so favourable as in the other town. Driving 
 along the prairie (for we did not stop at Min 
 neapolis), we came to a small and lonely gorge, 
 formed by a stream of water, which here falls down 
 some forty feet in one beautiful sheet, almost a 
 mass of spray, ere it strikes the ground. This fall 
 retains its Indian name of Minnehaha, or the 
 Laughing Waters, and very bright and sunny is 
 their smile. I thought I should like to see them 
 from the bottom, and so commenced the descent 
 of the gorge. I had not, however, gone far, before 
 I met a young rattlesnake, which flattened its head, 
 and put out its tongue. I gave the youth a blow 
 on the head with a small stick I had in my hand, 
 and killed him at once, but thinking his mother 
 might know her son was out, and be sitting up for 
 
196 
 
 him to come home, I deferred my descent until 
 some other time, as I had no wish to meet the 
 stern " parient," who might not be so easily dis 
 posed of. I might have romanced ; I fear I have 
 thrown away a splendid opportunity of describing a 
 fierce combat with a rattlesnake, and final over 
 throw of the monster ! * * * 
 
 Leaving this lovely scene with regret, we drove 
 on to Fort Snelling, an old fort, built in the days of 
 the Indian warfare, commanding the junction of 
 the river Minnesota with the Great Father of 
 Waters. The land is sold, and in a short time the 
 fort will be pulled down, and all memorial of it 
 lost. I saw some dirty German soldiers on duty, 
 and all wore a mean and slovenly aspect. From 
 thence we went down to see a curious cave, formed 
 by a stream of clear pure water, flowing through a 
 bed of rocky white sand, perfectly clean, and free 
 from all impurity; it would make the best glass 
 possible. We went some distance, but the guide 
 said he had been a mile and a half up the stream 
 without reaching the end of the cave. We then 
 crossed the Mississippi in a ferry boat, on the same 
 principle we crossed the Ticino, and reached St. 
 Paul s at dark, having spent a most delightful and 
 interesting day. Just before sunset we saw an 
 immense flight of black birds, about three miles 
 long, and about six to ten birds abreast, all flying 
 in the most orderly manner after their leader. In 
 twenty minutes after sunset it is quite dusk, and 
 
197 
 
 in half an hour dark, as there is little twilight. 
 In the evening we met our liquoring friends, 
 and saw some more specimens of the Far West, all 
 of whom amused us greatly. Their toast is " Ho." 
 I could not make it out, every man that drank 
 shouted it out. On enquiry I found it was merely 
 the Indian " Ugli" meaning " How are you ?" They 
 add the peculiar elongation to the w r ord " Sir," 
 when they wish to be emphatic, and say " Ho, 
 Sirree." 
 
 On Tuesday we found our long sought bear, pro- 
 nounced fear-skins, and purchased a couple of 
 fine ones. We got them from an Indian trader, 
 who deals with the Winebago and Sioux ; these 
 we have were purchased from the Indians on the 
 Red River, 800 miles from St. Paul s. * * * 
 We saw some real genuine Indians, in blankets, 
 leggings, and moccassins ; but dismiss all romance, 
 a more filthy, beggarly, inane-looking set I never 
 saw in my life. We met some fine-looking half- 
 breeds, on horseback, and saw some of the Indian 
 wooden carts, which travel immense distances, and 
 have not a single morsel of iron about them. Oxen 
 are the principal draught cattle, and in case of acci 
 dent the flesh is valuable, whereas the horse is 
 more expensive, and useless when dead. 
 
 St. Paul s is a most interesting place, but I feel 
 sure it has been forced into too hasty a growth ; 
 there is too much of the hot-house about it, 
 speculation has gone mad ; but, situated as it is at 
 
198 
 
 the head of the river navigation, it must be the 
 great port of the North West; and although it 
 may ruin hundreds, even when things get into their 
 proper healthy state, it will become, with legitimate 
 trade, a wealthy and important city. I should have 
 much liked to have penetrated farther into the 
 country, and gone to the Indian settlement, the 
 nearest point of which is ninety miles from St. 
 Paul s, but my time would not permit; and I 
 confess, it was with feelings of regret that I looked 
 for the last time -on the city of the bluffs. 
 
 On Wednesday morning we went on the Galena, 
 which sailed at ten, and arrived at Dunleith at six 
 the next afternoon. The day was glorious : the 
 scenery of the river really magnificent. We passed 
 Lake Pepin and the Maiden s Rock, so called from 
 some Indian girl named Winona converting it into 
 a western lover s leap. Before sunset I was much 
 gratified with the scenery, quiet, calm, unruffled : 
 there is a majesty in nature which far transcends 
 all human genius ; and its greatest majesty is seen 
 when man and his works are the furthest removed ! 
 Solitude becomes it best ; and I can only repeat 
 and strengthen from a second view, favoured with 
 splendid weather, what I said of the sail up the 
 Mississippi ! 
 
 The river is rapidly falling ; and though our 
 steamer only draws twenty- six inches of water, we 
 stuck fast several times. On putting out two huge 
 masts, one on each bow, which, resting on the 
 
199 
 
 bottom, formed a purchase, and then men hauling 
 ropes running from the deck through blocks in the 
 masts, and driving the engines as hard as they could 
 go, we were forced, grating, over the obstacle. They 
 are high-pressure boats, and I was really glad to 
 get on shore. Our room was over the boiler, carry 
 ing from 150 to 200 pounds on the inch : they are 
 not more than three feet in diameter, and, if 
 sound, will stand the pressure; but you never know 
 how long they have been at work. When we were 
 a- ground over the principal bar we met, the 
 darkies were piling the wood on the fire at a 
 tremendous rate, and every joint was blowing like 
 fury, till the jimcrack boat quivered again. We 
 passed, coming down, a boat that had been run 
 into between Sunday and Wednesday, cut down, 
 and sunk, and some five persons (German emi 
 grants, I believe,) drowned whilst asleep. We had 
 excellent fare on the Galena. I told the steward, 
 a negro, that he beat the Fuller House and the 
 other steamer, whereat he seemed much pleased. 
 Afterwards, I had a deal of talk with him. He 
 was born a slave, bought himself free, found it 
 necessary to read and write : worked at this needful 
 instruction for a year after he was twenty- one, and 
 now receives 75 dollars a-month, more than .15. 
 and his keep. He bought his mother and sisters, 
 whom he left in slavery. " Got em cheap, Massa, 
 paid leben hunnerd dolla for em, Sar !" He 
 has a number of black lads as waiters, whose wages 
 
200 
 
 run from 20 dollars a-month and upwards. I had 
 much conversation with him about the condition 
 of the free negroes. He said that, for the most 
 part, they were house, personal, and favourite ser 
 vants, whom their masters manumitted, and, having 
 been accustomed to the luxuries of a wealthy 
 household, spent their money too freely, and did 
 not do as well as they might. He said when one 
 of the banks stopped just now, he and his boys 
 (his black waiters) had 1500 dollars deposited there. 
 The great difficulty of the free coloured men 
 appears to be that no white artizan will work with 
 them, so that they are driven to other employ 
 ments than mechanical ones, hence the reason 
 such numbers become waiters, servants, and so 
 forth. He named some instances to me of real 
 good mechanics among them, which I was glad 
 to hear. I said, " Well, I am an Englishman, and 
 in our land no man can be the property of another, 
 be he white or coloured." " Ah !" he said, " but 
 for Canada, I don t know what many of our 
 people would do :" (the provinces containing a 
 great number of runaway slaves.) He said that 
 the planters think no more of selling a man or his 
 child away to a distance, than if he were a horse, 
 often not so much : that side of the question I 
 have to see. This much I can say, that I never 
 met a more intelligent, humble-minded creature, 
 in his sphere of life, than the black steward of the 
 Galena. They want to be left alone. In many of 
 
201 
 
 the States, their oath is not taken against a white 
 man ; and, therefore, he said, we wish only for 
 quiet, and to keep out of all legal troubles. Quiet 
 submission is the only chance for a peaceful life, 
 and this in a country that boasts itself the " land 
 of the free and the brave." 
 
 At Dunleith we took the railway, and it being 
 dark immediately, we ran on all night. At nine 
 the next morning, stopped at a small wooden 
 village, called Pana, where we found we had to 
 wait till three in the afternoon, for the train to St. 
 Louis. A more tiresome six hours I never passed. 
 At a wretched village, out on the boundless prairie, 
 and a burning hot day, you may imagine our 
 delight when we got off at three ; and at seven, 
 crossing the Mississippi in a ferry-boat, were 
 driven to the Planters House, an immense hotel, 
 which we found crammed full. Still they took us 
 in ; and then we discovered that we were to sleep 
 in a large dining-room, with sixteen beds in it ; 
 and to add to the inducement, there were notices 
 stuck up, " Persons sleeping in this room, are 
 requested to beware of pick-pockets 1" Pleasant, 
 very. Rotherham and I were very much down in 
 the mouth. I had made up my mind what to do ; 
 and, after having some supper, I told him to come 
 with me, and we went off to another hotel, of which 
 I had heard, and engaged rooms; went back to the 
 Planters House, paid for our supper, and took our 
 selves and traps to Barnum s Hotel, where I am 
 
202 
 
 now writing. I must say at the Planters they 
 were extremely polite, and regretted their position, 
 and at first declined to allow me to pay anything, 
 hut I, of course, insisted on paying for our supper, 
 so he said, " Well, then, say one dollar ; and I 
 guess you will come in as you please, and use the 
 news-room, or any part of the house when you 
 like." So we parted quite in a friendly manner. 
 This is a quieter, and, I think, better hotel. They 
 are extremely attentive. 
 
 St. Louis is an old town, standing on the Missis 
 sippi, founded hy the early French settlers ; it is 
 in the State of Missouri, twenty miles from the 
 mouth of the river of that name, and has a large 
 trade hoth up and down the rivers Missouri, Missis 
 sippi, and Ohio, commanding a river navigation of 
 8,000 miles. I had a letter here to a firm, but I 
 heard at St. Paul s that in consequence of a sudden 
 call of 150,000 dollars for railway shares, they had 
 suspended, simply from want of ready cash, being 
 immensely rich people. I did not, therefore, 
 feel myself justified in troubling them ; and their 
 time would be sufficiently occupied without being 
 bothered with strangers. 
 
 I fear for our Manchester houses. This American 
 suspension is fearful throughout the country, all 
 from over speculation and extravagance as a 
 nation, importing more than they could pay for; 
 and, perhaps, above all, making railways faster than 
 they could afford. They have not the capital to 
 
203 
 
 lock up in earth-works ; and from what I have seen 
 of their lines and management, I should prefer 
 other investments. They are rohbed right and 
 left : every servant gets rich ; and the poor share 
 holders are left in the lurch. One fact alone shews 
 the system. People seldom take tickets, but get 
 them from the conductor or guard, who goes with 
 the train. For the money he gives a check, and 
 this check he receives back again before the 
 passengers get out, so that it is all left to his 
 honesty as to what account he pleases to render of 
 the receipts. 
 
 To-day I went to the Unitarian Church, which 
 I found at the corner of Olive and Ninth Streets, 
 (called the Church of the Messiah) a splendid 
 stone structure, with a most aspiring spire. A 
 broad lobby across the width of the Church, gave 
 access to three doors, one leading down the centre, 
 the others to the side aisles, which were covered with 
 handsome carpets, not our common cocoa-nut matt 
 ing. A door-keeper put me in a comfortable pew ; 
 and on looking round, I found it was a fine gothic 
 building, with lancet and mullioned windows on 
 each side, filled with stained glass, and a small 
 Catherine wheel over the pulpit end : the roof was 
 in dark oak panels : a gallery ran round, supported 
 on pillars, forming gothic arches over the gallery, 
 the same as St. Andrew s : the pulpit was some 
 thing like the one in Brook Street, only one desk 
 as wide as two. There was a large and most 
 
204 
 
 respectable congregation ; the minister a Mr. Eliott. 
 They have a form of service, but it is departed 
 from at the minister s pleasure : the singing was 
 good, but the congregation don t join. We had an 
 excellent sermon on faith in Christ. I felt not a 
 little affected to hear some of our old chapel 
 hymns so far away from home, on the banks of the 
 Mississippi, and to find there the simple form of 
 worship which is most accordant to my own views 
 and feelings ! After the service, I stayed, and 
 introduced myself to Mr. Eliott. He had been in 
 Manchester in 1853, and regretted he had not 
 seen me sooner, and that I was leaving so early. 
 
 He is rather like Mr. H. might be taken for 
 
 his brother. By the way, you must tell Mrs. C , 
 
 with my kind remembrances, that I can speak most 
 favourably of Unitarianism in Missouri. 
 
 Rotherham went to the Episcopalian Church, 
 and a Bishop preached. He said he could not 
 make out the voluntaries they played ; he thought 
 he knew them, and at last he found out they were 
 airs from the opera of " Trovatore." The Bishop 
 was ordaining a Deacon, and I asked Rotherham 
 if he had had a good sermon. " Well, you see, I 
 thought it would be about the duties of a Deacon, 
 and as I am not going to be one, I did not listen." 
 St. Louis had been visited with a severe shock of 
 earthquake, the day before we arrived here, 
 which frightened all the good people from their 
 propriety. It seems to have been extremely terrible. 
 
205 
 
 It occurred in the night during which we were in 
 the railway car, travelling from Dunleith here. 
 This is the first slave State we have entered ; and 
 on enquiring, I found that the black porter and 
 black servants, fifteen or sixteen, were all slaves : 
 the property of the house. I had some talk with 
 one of the proprietors, and he said they could not 
 be induced to run away : they were all well off, 
 and satisfied, much better cared for than the white 
 boys (the waiters were white); and they never 
 heard of any discontent, unless some d d aboli 
 tionist came talking with them. They allow them 
 15 dollars each a-month spending money. Some 
 are married ; and, on pressing him, he said, of 
 course, their children are the property of the hotel, 
 and are sometimes sold. This conversation took 
 place at tea one evening ; and just opposite sat a 
 
 gentleman, who inquired from Mr. F what the 
 
 old man would take for Paris ; guessed 1000 
 dollars, Paris being one of the house servants, as 
 he had a good mind to buy him. This was the 
 first time I ever heard a man seriously ask the price 
 of another ; for although I have asked the price of 
 slaves in the East, and more especially the small 
 boy at Smyrna, I do not consider that until then I 
 had really heard the query as a matter of business. 
 This I must say, that apparently the boys were 
 merry enough, and seemed to have a vast deal of 
 fun among themselves. Sunday appeared to be a 
 holiday, as I did not see any of them about the 
 
206 
 
 hotel during the entire day, which I was glad to 
 think might even be a day of rest to the poor 
 slave. 
 
 There is not much to interest in a town like St. 
 Louis : it is a mere common-place business city, 
 not unlike some third-rate French provincial town, 
 but inferior to such because devoid of the fine old 
 buildings that give such places a gilding and a 
 glory reflected from the sunlight of past ages ; and 
 again, there is not the perfect charm of novelty 
 such as we meet with in a perfectly new place, like 
 Chicago or St. Paul s. * * * * The Upper 
 Mississippi is an extraordinary river, receiving such 
 vast streams, and yet not apparently undergoing 
 much enlargement. The river is not more than 
 half-a-mile wide, and yet here it has received the 
 waters of the mighty Missouri, which joins about 
 twenty miles above St. Louis. In the upper portion 
 the colour of the water is peaty, and rather dark : 
 the sheet falling over at St. Anthony, reflects a 
 strong yellow colour, but here it has the appearance 
 of a stream of liquid mud, the discoloration being 
 occasioned by the water of the Missouri. I am 
 sorry not to see the Missouri; but there is no 
 practical object in travelling forty miles merely to 
 see the junction. I had thought of visiting Kansas 
 city, but the elections are going on there, under 
 the supervision of the United States troops : diffi 
 culties occurring, and the town full of rowdies 
 and scamps from all quarters, so that it is, although 
 
207 
 
 perhaps not absolutely unsafe, still risky; and, 
 therefore, I did not feel justified either in going 
 myself or taking Kotherham, as the lad goes and 
 does just what I tell him, or where I take him, 
 without a word of question. 
 
 TUESDAY EVENING, October 13th, 
 
 GALT HOUSE, LOUISVILLE. 
 
 AT half-past nine yesterday (Monday morning), 
 we left the hotel, and crossing the river, embarked 
 in the railway cars for Louisville, I say embarked, 
 because the word here for every sort of conveyance, 
 railway, steam-boat, and omnibus. When about to 
 start, "is all aboard?" and after a long, tedious, and 
 most uninteresting journey, arrived here at half- 
 past four this morning. The distance is only 274 
 miles, so that our speed was not great. We got a 
 capital bed-room, the best we have had, and were 
 glad to turn in at five o clock, thoroughly done up. 
 The day has been dull, and now it is raining 
 heavily; but there is nothing to see, except the 
 river, which we went to look at, and found the 
 Ohio a muddy, dirty-looking stream, about from a 
 quarter to half-a-mile wide. The Falls of the Ohio 
 are close to the town, but being only two feet high, 
 are not very imposing. Louisville is a thoroughly 
 
208 
 
 uninteresting town, and we only stay here as the 
 point of departure for the Mammoth Cave. We 
 expected to have got on this afternoon, but find we 
 must start in the morning ; get up at half-past 
 four for fifty miles of rail, and then fifty-five by 
 stage-coach ; the journey only taking from six a.m. 
 to eight p.m. : the stage appears to go about four 
 miles an hour, and at the most five. As I knew 
 you would be anxious about that same cave, I shall 
 finish this letter when I have been, and so not 
 leave you in any suspense, waiting for another mail, 
 though, if I do so, I must keep it back a little, but 
 shall post it from Cincinnati. 
 
 We went to the theatre this evening, for a little 
 amusement, and heard an Irish actor, who seems a 
 favourite. The audience make horrible noises. 
 There is one gallery for the negroes, where they 
 sit by themselves. 
 
 The commercial crisis seems extending here, and 
 several New York bankers are down. The whole 
 conversation is the state of the money market : 
 gold is at an immense premium ; and many hotels 
 refuse currency, that is paper money. I feel glad 
 to find the Canadian Banks so well esteemed in 
 Chicago ; they considered Canadian notes as good 
 as specie. I have one five- dollar note, but that 
 won t go here in Kentucky, because they have no 
 trade with Canada, but it will be paid in New York 
 or Boston. From Cincinnati I go 
 
 by Wheeling, Pittsburg, Harrisburg, Philadelphia, 
 
209 
 
 through New York to Boston, and the places 
 thereabout, before the cold weather sets in; thence 
 to Philadelphia, Baltimore, Richmond, Washington, 
 &c. At Philadelphia, Rotherham and I separate, 
 but expect to meet in Boston, as he must go to 
 Washington direct, because he leaves for home 
 about the first week in December. I must now 
 close for the night, having to be up so early, but I 
 like an hour s chat with you. How fearful these 
 Indian accounts are ; I see extracts from our 
 papers in the American ones, but I cannot bear 
 to read them: the day of retribution will be a 
 fearful one. 
 
 BELL S TAVERN, 
 
 WEDNESDAY EVENING, October 14t/i. 
 
 NEVER was I so much rejoiced as to arrive at 
 this place. At half-past four this morning, the 
 darkies kept up an incessant clamour at the door, 
 until quite sure we were thoroughly wide awake, 
 and then visited us each three minutes to keep up 
 the irritation, and ask if our luggage was ready. 
 Breakfasted at five, and took our seats in the 
 omnibus for the railway, which took us through a 
 
 dense forest to Newhaven, where we arrived about 
 o 
 
210 
 
 eight, and then were transferred into an American 
 stage. Can I describe it ? let me try. Imagine an 
 old Manchester two-horse coach, made a trifle wider 
 in the body, and. lengthened out eighteen inches, 
 with the usual seats back and front ; then place 
 another seat between the two, with a strap slung 
 from the top, and fixed to each side as a back, and 
 then cram in nine people, three on each side, and 
 you will be near the idea. Sling the entire machine 
 on great leather springs, put six people more out 
 side, a large quantity of luggage on a shelf behind, 
 and some more on the top ; splash the whole well 
 with mud, and you may not be far from a compre 
 hension of the thing. We started our two selves, 
 two Americans, four German Jew pedlars, and a 
 big old negro, as the inside complement. One 
 of the Americans was a pleasant, chatty man. 
 The pedlars insufferable, impudent scamps, far 
 inferior to the poor negro. Jolt, toss, roll, tumble, 
 the whole of them together, from eight in the 
 morning till eight in the evening, doing fifty-five 
 miles, and you will admit that I might be glad to 
 escape such purgatory. The road was rough to a 
 degree, but passed through some pretty scejiery; 
 mostly untouched forest, with scattered clearings 
 and log huts. 
 
 Well, here we are, seven miles from the cave, at 
 a primitive inn in the midst of a Kentucky forest, 
 with a hard day s work before us to-morrow. Our 
 room opens on a verandah, and as it is cool, 
 
having rained heavily last night, and much of 
 to-day, we have a bright warm log fire, by which I 
 am writing. The old negro man interested me 
 very much. I found he had been manumitted by 
 his master, having been born a slave, and had 
 emigrated to Liberia, on the coast of Africa, which 
 is a settlement of free blacks, and where the eman 
 cipated slave is introducing civilization to the African 
 native tribes. He had been out three years, and 
 had returned all that way to see if he could buy 
 two of his sons, and take them back with him to 
 Africa, the paternal affection showing itself in such 
 a clear and expressive form in the acts of this poor 
 old black. I doubt whether many of the Yankees, 
 who so despise the coloured people, would do as 
 much. He gave a good account of their prospects in 
 Liberia, and apparently its position, as a real bond 
 fide settlement, seems secured. They have sometimes 
 to fight with the native tribes, but having cannon 
 and guns they manage to hold their own. Each 
 settler has ten acres of land, which he is bound to 
 improve, and when he has built a substantial 
 dwelling, has a vote, the constitution being a copy 
 of the United States. He had with him his voting 
 ticket, being a supporter of the Republican ticket, 
 which he was proud to exhibit to us. They don t 
 grow much cotton; principally corn, sugar, rice, 
 coffee, and palm oil. So much for the idea that 
 the coloured races are incapable of improvement. 
 In this house the servants are all slaves, men 
 
and women, and it is amusing to hear their remarks. 
 They chat and laugh at their own dark jokes, 
 whilst waiting at table, where they hover about like 
 so many dusky spirits from a lower world. 
 
 Our travelling companions went on in the stage, 
 which goes to Nashville, eighty miles further, and 
 having in our place two women and a drunken 
 Kentuckian, who turned the blacky out, and the last 
 we heard of them, as the stage drove away, was the 
 same intoxicated fellow threatening the German 
 Jews that he would shoot two or three of them if 
 they did not mind their p s and q s, as no man 
 should travel with him that was not a true down 
 right full-blooded Republican and Democrat. 
 
 CINCINNATI, SATURDAY MOBNING. 
 
 BEING well fatigued, on Wednesday, I wrote up 
 to our arrival at Bell s Tavern. On the following 
 morning, the pertinacious darkies knocked away at 
 an early hour, and after breakfast, at seven, we 
 took our seats in the stage that runs through the 
 forest to the cave, nine miles distant from Bell s, or 
 to call it by its local name, Three Forks. We had 
 four horses, and the stage to ourselves, nevertheless 
 the journey occupied two hours and a half, so rough 
 
213 
 
 is the road ; you may imagine how rough when I 
 tell you that our exemplar, the road from Inver- 
 snaid, of old recollections, is a perfect Macadam 
 pet in comparison. Our ponderous vehicle 
 swayed, and jumped and jolted over rocks, through 
 ruts, jerking us fairly off our seats ; now dashing 
 over a stone as big as a house, and then varying it 
 by driving over a prostrate tree. Forest on all 
 sides, with but few clearings, in one of which was 
 a small log-hut school, full of gaping little Ken- 
 tuckians. 
 
 The waste of timber is very striking : trees are 
 felled and tossed rotting on the ground, or if in too 
 great a hurry, either barked round the bottom and 
 thus slowly killed, or simply burnt down by lighting 
 a fire round the roots. The farmers want their 
 crops free from the shade of trees, and by this means 
 they effect their object, at a less cost than by cutting 
 down and removing. It is melancholy to see them 
 rotten and rotting, falling about on all sides, or 
 standing like blighted pillars, intermingled with the 
 charred trunks of those which have been burnt 
 down; fortunately the day was fine, and in spite of 
 sore bones, we much enjoyed the ride ; certainly 
 the jolting came rather hard upon us after our long 
 journey of the previous day. We passed several 
 tobacco fields, with the log barns filled with the 
 drying leaves of the noxious weed. About half-past 
 nine we reached the hotel at the cave, and taking 
 a guide, at once commenced our underground 
 
pilgrimage, each with a large open lamp in hand. 
 The season and rush of visitors is over, so we had 
 a guide quietly to ourselves, and told him we must 
 see all in one day the route is two days hut it 
 can be done in one if you are determined, and a well- 
 spent tip to the guide will, as usual, ensure it. 
 
 Descending an inclined road, we turned sud 
 denly to the right, and then down below us yawned 
 the mouth of the tremendous abyss; not unlike 
 the entrance to the Peak cavern. This was the 
 main gallery, which runs four miles under ground, 
 with a width of from forty to eighty feet, and 
 a height of from sixty to near a hundred. At the 
 entrance are some old pits, used by the people 
 during the war in 1813, to make saltpetre. We 
 soon left daylight behind, and turning suddenly 
 round, about a mile from the entrance, ascended a 
 flight of wooden stairs, and proceeding through 
 some long galleries, entered a series of immense 
 chambers, containing a large number of enormous 
 stalactites, which are named from the forms they 
 have assumed, as " The Tree," which presents the 
 exact similitude of a tree, with rough bark and 
 broken branches; " The Elephant s Head," "The 
 Arm Chair," "The Gothic Chamber," "The Altar," 
 and so forth. Most extraordinary is the tracery, 
 which has been formed by the slow dropping of 
 water, charged with carbonate of lime. I believe 
 some geologists calculate thirty years, to form the 
 thickness of a wafer ; and, therefore, these pillars 
 
215 
 
 must represent the slow processes of nature during 
 millions of years. On one I watched a drop of 
 water hanging at the end, and was almost lost in 
 contemplating the wonderful continuity and perse 
 verance displayed in every act of the Creator. The 
 guide carried with him a number of Bengal lights, 
 which he fired now and then, to exhibit by illumi 
 nation the size of the chambers. The dome of 
 one is very grand from its vast proportions. In 
 another, there is a natural pulpit and gallery, 
 which was used twenty years ago by the Metho 
 dists. The ground is strewed with the enormous 
 slabs of limestone-rock, which at times have fallen 
 from the roof, until the arch form was fully com 
 pleted and thus stability ensured. On all sides the 
 marks of water are visible, so that, no doubt, some 
 time or other, a river has flowed through these 
 galleries and halls. 
 
 After a sufficient view of these stalactitic wonders, 
 we retraced our steps, and re-entered the grand 
 avenue. The guide pointed out an enormous block 
 of rock, weighing thousands of tons, which had 
 fallen sometime, in shape like a coffin, hence called 
 "The Giant s Coffin." We passed immediately be 
 hind it, and stooping low, proceeded along a gallery 
 into another immense vault, which we traversed 
 entirely, and then ascended a hill covered with loose 
 stones, very steep, called " The Hill of Difficulty" 
 and then crossed a level tract, very wide, (we could 
 not with our lamps see the sides,) called " The Wry- 
 
216 
 
 necked Passage," since you have to put your head on 
 one side * * * then a higer vault, called " The 
 Valley of Relief." The guide told us to be careful 
 and follow him close, for there were chasms sixty or 
 a hundred feet deep, down which we might fall ; no 
 real danger, hut if alone, you might easily be killed. 
 We came to the edge of one called " The Bottom 
 less Pit," and crossed a portion of it on " The 
 Bridge of Sighs." On through more streets of 
 rocks, and then we entered "The Fat Man s Diffi 
 culty," being a most extraordinary passage through 
 the rock, having the precise appearance of being 
 cut out with a miner s pick, even to the marks of 
 the pick. It is eighteen inches wide, and winds 
 about considerably ; each projection has its corre 
 sponding recess ; the height is about four feet, and 
 then it expands to a much greater width. We 
 forced through it, and then entered "The Tall 
 Man s Difficulty;" which was, as you may suppose, 
 a case of stoop. We must have gone a mile through 
 these narrow places, when we descended into 
 another " Valley of Belief," and found ourselves 
 on the edge of a silent river, solemn in its eternal 
 night. This we crossed in a boat, and then tra 
 versing a long passage, about the proportions of the 
 Medlock at Ardwick, the bottom covered with moist 
 sand, and the arched roof at least sixty feet over 
 head, we came to another hill, which we mounted, 
 and looked down into the "Dead Sea," which we 
 skirted, and crossed some portion on a ladder; the 
 
217 
 
 walk is protected by an iron rail, but a footslip 
 would be destruction. On again, and then we 
 came to " the River," as it is called, and entering 
 a boat, we passed along its dark waters; stooping 
 low, to pass through the low arch-way, we went 
 along some distance, and listened to the echoes 
 that died away among the rocks. We were now 
 four -miles from the entrance of the cave, and 
 might go five miles more, the length being nine 
 miles; but had seen the objects of most interest. 
 We sat a long time in the boat, quiet and silent, 
 and then tried the echoes again. The guide sang 
 in a deep tone, and the notes seemed prolonged by 
 some sweet organ, in the far recesses of the cave. 
 Here live the eyeless fishes creatures that never 
 have the light near them, and who are thus 
 fitted by a wise providence for their drear abode. 
 They are difficult to catch, for, like blind people, 
 their other senses are wonderfully acute, and the 
 first touch of an oar is felt by them to an immense 
 distance, and they seek their places of safety. There 
 are, also, small lobsters, that appear to have a small 
 eye, but really are quite blind. I got from the 
 guide one of each preserved in spirits ; the fish 
 has no mark even where the eye could be. I do 
 not know whether they have a specimen in our 
 Museum,* if not, I will give them this one ; but, if 
 they have, I will give it to the Free Library 
 Museum. 
 
 * The fish were presented to the Museum, Peter Street, by Dr. Ashton. 
 
218 
 
 We now retraced our steps, and re-crossing the 
 sandy road, which is often overflowed by the river, 
 re-entered our various purgatories. I asked the 
 guide when passing in the boat through the low 
 arch, if it was ever impassable. He said very often 
 people could not enter, and once, when he was in, 
 the waters rose so suddenly and rapidly, that he lay 
 flat in the boat in the wet, and with his hands and 
 feet pushing the boat through, resting them against 
 the roof, and only just escaped. This river was 
 first discovered by the celebrated guide Stephen, 
 who died this year of consumption, only thirty- five ; 
 he had unfortunately taken to drinking. What 
 strange feelings, to be the first to look on this 
 silent, dark, and apparently motionless stream ! It 
 is presumed that it flows into the Green river. It 
 is three hundred and sixty feet below the surface 
 of the earth. Diverging from our route we entered 
 a narrow staircase, over which hangs an enormous 
 slab of rock, resting on a small point, and crossing 
 several narrow bridges, and going up and down 
 wooden steps, we were shown " Moran s Dome," a 
 fearful chasm. Our position was about half-way up 
 and we looked through a kind of window naturally 
 formed; the guide went up to some height above, 
 and then fired a Bengal light, and illuminated the 
 profound abyss from top to bottom, near four hundred 
 feet sheer straight down, with a magnificent arched 
 dome roof. The light soon died, and the unbroken 
 night again wrapped it in darkness and mystery. 
 
219 
 
 Eeturning, we again entered the main avenue, 
 from behind " The Giant s Coffin," and went along 
 some distance farther to " The Angle Hall," where 
 the cave turns off to the left at an acute angle, 
 and then we entered the part called " The Star 
 Chamber." The ceiling of the cave in many places 
 is marked with an incrustation of ferruginous lime 
 stone, and most fantastic are the forms assumed. 
 Men, women, children, Indians, horses, ant-eater on 
 a tree, all there as distinct as if purposely sketched 
 out. I noticed one, and said, " There is an Indian 
 with the feather on his head; he ought to be 
 Black Hawk." The guide said, " That is exactly 
 the name we give it." So you see from that the 
 appearances are real, and not distorted fancies. 
 
 The ceiling of " The Star Chamber" is seventy 
 feet above the ground, and completely covered with 
 this dark deposit. We sat down on a bench, and the 
 guide took our lamps, and in some nook shaded the 
 light from the ceiling, and told us to look steadily 
 up. He then allowed the light to steal gently over 
 the roof, and in the apparently dark sky, the stars 
 came out, one after the other, large and small, 
 glittering precisely as the heavens on a frosty 
 night. One group has a hazy appearance, and is 
 called the "The Comet;" and, in another place, 
 an enormous number give a perfect representation 
 of the milky way. The deception is most com 
 plete. The sky assumes a deep blue, and you 
 cannot really tell that it is not the true sky on 
 
220 
 
 which you are gazing. Our guide then left us, 
 and took away the light, so that we might, whilst 
 sitting quiet and safely, realise the darkness of the 
 cave, Words can give no idea of its intensity. 
 No ray, however feehle, finds its way there. I 
 bared my shirt sleeve, to see if any reflection came 
 from it, hut all was black. It was a darkness that 
 might be felt. I have been in the dark cells in 
 the gaol, but there you can put out your hand and 
 feel the walls ; here the space around you and 
 above you is vast, and you feel as if returned to 
 chaos. The intensity of this eternal night soon 
 became most painful ; and we were glad when our 
 conductor reappeared with his light, and informed 
 us that we had seen all the principal objects in the 
 cave. To see it all you must give weeks, but then 
 you see a repetition of the same kind of general 
 effect. 
 
 " The Grand Halls " we had seen, " The Ball 
 Room," " The Hall of Revellers," " The Church," 
 " The Grand Dome," and so forth, and " The 
 River;" so we felt very well satisfied, and were 
 surprised when told that we had, in the bowels of 
 the earth, walked twelve miles. One of the 
 passages is arched in a most extraordinary man 
 ner, as though chiselled out by the hand of a 
 mason. So far as is known, there are two hundred 
 and twenty distinct galleries. 
 
 Near " The Star Chamber" there were fifteen 
 houses built some twelve years ago, with the idea 
 
that the air and temperature of the cave were 
 favourable for consumptive patients. One poor 
 fellow lived four months in one of the houses. 
 Imagine such a life, in eternal gloom, night, and 
 silence, for the silence is as overpowering as the 
 darkness. But it was of no avail he died. The 
 temperature is uniform, all the year 59 of 
 Fahrenheit. The ventilation is perfect and most 
 delicious. The day was warm and bright, and 
 a gentle air seemed breathing from the most 
 distant recesses towards the mouth of the cave. 
 Between five and six hours soon went, and after a 
 most gratifying sojourn we re- ascended to daylight, 
 not so much tired as might have been expected. 
 Dined at the hotel, and then returned along the 
 forest road, which Rotherham described to be a 
 road made by cutting down the trees, and leaving 
 the stumps above ground, which is exactly the fact. 
 We got back to Bell s safely, and sat quietly watching 
 a heavy storm that swept over with great fury and 
 suddenness, just as we returned. It made us rather 
 anxious, for as we were to take the stage back to 
 Louisville, we had to depend on what vacant seats 
 there were when it arrived, and feared that we 
 might have to go outside in the cold and rain. It 
 arrived at ten, and I found there was room inside, 
 which was a great relief so then went and laid 
 down till two, when I was woke again, and at half- 
 past we started to retrace our weary journey. We 
 had rather better company back, and at six o clock 
 
222 
 
 p.m. reached Louisville, got supper, and started at 
 eight from the hotel to the railway ; the train left 
 at nine, and soon after five this morning we reached 
 Cincinnati, as you may suppose well tired. 
 
 This week we have travelled, Monday, from 
 nine morning to five next morning ; Wednesday, 
 from five a.m. to nine p.m. ; Friday, from 2 30 
 a.m. to five a.m. Saturday; in all 628 miles. 
 Here we shall stay a few days ; it seems a nice town. 
 
 I was glad to find your letter of the 18th Sep- 
 temher here, (some one named John A. Nicholls had 
 opened it at Chicago,) and thank you for the scrap 
 of paper, which told me my first per the North Star 
 had duly been received, it seemed like the first re- 
 establishment of the link with home again. Tell 
 Lawrence I am very much pleased and gratified with 
 his letter, in every way a very good letter, not only on 
 account of the writing and the expression, but the 
 goodness of heart that shines through all. 
 
 Eotherham is one of the best lads I ever knew 
 in my life, always merry, singing, and whistling. 
 He has none of the awkwardness of most lads of 
 twenty, and none of the vice of many of that age. 
 He is coming to see me when I get home ; he is 
 just a lad you will like. I am glad to see the 
 Heron testimonial. Tell Papa to put my name 
 down. I should like it to appear among his 
 friends. 
 
 We intend to go to the theatre this evening, as 
 I see that Mr. and Mrs. John Wood, formerly in 
 
223 
 
 Manchester are acting here. I knew the fact 
 that the Arabia met us going into New York, 
 would be a great relief to your mind; you may 
 imagine how grateful I was when her light came in 
 sight, since by her you must know of our safety, 
 some days before you would receive a letter. Give 
 my love to them in Mosley Street and Ludlow; tell 
 Mary I really have not yet had time to write to 
 her. Papa may tell them at the mill that I am 
 quite well. We seem to be in an excellent hotel, 
 the Burnet House, very large, clean, and comfort 
 able, and good food, which is most desirable, for 
 such rubbish as we have eaten cannot be good for 
 any one. So far from the passage making me ill, I 
 never was better in my life. 
 
 BUKNET HOUSE, CINCINNATI, 
 
 October IBth, 1857. 
 MY DEAR MAMMA ; 
 
 So soon as I have finished one letter, I 
 generally lay the keel of another, so that my diary 
 is in your hands. I have written several letters 
 to-day. On my arrival here I found yours, one 
 from Mr. Ferguson, and a telegraphic despatch from 
 Charles Matthews. I therefore wrote Matthews 
 and Mr. Ferguson each a long epistle, giving them 
 
some of my impressions on America and American 
 things in general. 
 
 I also wrote to Mary Staley, giving her an 
 account of the darkies, and Mississippi steam-boat 
 life. This one I have commenced on a sheet of 
 the hotel paper, which is abundantly supplied to 
 the guests of the house, free of charge. I do so 
 because it has a picture of the house upon it, and 
 you may thus form an idea of the grandeur of the 
 principal hotel in a town not half so large as 
 Manchester. 
 
 I have told you before something of the way 
 these immense establishments are managed, but I 
 think this the most perfect I have seen : you enter 
 a large square hall, the roof supported by pillars, 
 the floor paved with alternate squares of black and 
 white marble ; facing the entrance is a large marble 
 counter, behind which stands the clerk; on this 
 counter there is a book, in which each guest writes 
 his name on arrival, and then the number of the 
 room is written in another column ; a third part is 
 left, in which the clerk puts the time of your 
 arrival, thus : B., D., T., or S. stands for an arrival 
 in time for Breakfast, Dinner, Tea, or Supper, and 
 L., if too late for any meal. Your key is then 
 given to you, your luggage pointed out, carried up, 
 and you are free of the house ; the general charge 
 is two dollars and a half per day, some places three; 
 no extras. 
 
 The rack that holds the keys has a number of 
 
225 
 
 pigeon holes, each of which corresponds to the 
 number of a room, and any letters, cards, small 
 parcels, &c., are placed therein for you. Near the 
 clerk is a large frame, with a number of small 
 plates ; if any one rings a bell, the corresponding 
 plate falls down, and uncovers the number, so that 
 although in this house there are near four hundred 
 rooms, there is only one bell for them all. On the 
 right of the office is a washing-room, provided with 
 basins, mirrors, and plenty of clean towels ; on the 
 left, a telegraphic office, so that without leaving the 
 house you may send and receive a message from 
 any part of the States or Canada. There is a 
 large magnificent drawing-room, luxuriously fur 
 nished, and two comfortable smoking and writing 
 rooms, an immense dining-room completes the 
 public part of the house. On the ground floor are 
 tailor s, haberdasher s, barber s, and cigar shops, 
 with a bar, hot and cold baths, and in the hall a 
 small marble stand for the sale of cigars. Attached 
 to the house are some three or four boys, who sell 
 newspapers, and these little urchins, precocious 
 beyond their years, board there, and eat and drink 
 at the public table. There used to be a great 
 number of hotel robberies. No one knows any 
 thing about the guests, who or what they are, and 
 hotel thieves were in the habit of frequenting the 
 large houses, and in the absence of people, entering 
 their rooms, with false keys, and cutting and break 
 ing open their trunks for money, &c. The hotel 
 
226 
 
 keepers are liable, but by an act of Congress each 
 hotel keeper is authorized to put up a notice in 
 each room, that he provides a fire and fraud-proof 
 safe, in which all valuables can be stored belonging 
 to the guests, and if such a provision be made, he 
 is no longer responsible for any loss from robbery. 
 If you miss the proper meal-time you must go 
 without till the next, and so long as you hold the 
 key you are considered a guest, and whether you 
 take a meal or not in the house are charged just 
 the same. So the bookkeeping is very simple 
 indeed. Wines of course are extra, and any meals 
 served in private ; there is no bowing and scraping 
 or cringing to rich people, all are on exactly the 
 same footing great civility, but nothing more. 
 When the system is well carried out it is an excel 
 lent one; when it is not it is execrable, for you 
 have no appeal. " Don t like it ; well then, leave it." 
 I consider this, and the Metropolitan in New York, 
 the best I have seen in America, but of course we 
 must expect them to be better in the older and 
 more settled country. 
 
 We have walked about here something like 
 country gapers at Whitsuntide, for we have not 
 seen a regular orderly city for some five weeks, 
 and it really appears strange, after plank walks 
 and wooden houses, intermingled with log huts. 
 This country is the real paradise of pigs; they 
 are allowed the free run of the streets, and grunt 
 and root about everywhere. It is 
 
227 
 
 a handsome town, built on the Ohio river, which is 
 a sad muddy stream, and is the largest town in 
 the State of Ohio, called the " Buckeye State." 
 Columbus is the capital, which we shall visit as we 
 go hence to Pittsburg; the streets are on the usual 
 plan, all laid out quite square, and at right angles 
 with each other, a plan which renders it extremely 
 easy to find your way about. The streets leading 
 up from the river are named after trees, as chest 
 nut, walnut, sycamore, and the cross streets simply 
 by number; thus our hotel is corner of Third and 
 Chestnut, and so they go on, Third, Fourth, &c.; 
 in giving or writing an address they never add the 
 word " street," but put it just as I have done. 
 
 The police do not wear any uniform, but as they 
 usually look the idlest men about, you may thus 
 detect them. On close inspection they wear a star 
 on their waistcoat, but you must be near to see it ; 
 they are badly managed, and are a most inefficient 
 force, in fact, all their municipal matters are 
 villainously managed, and there is great peculation. 
 I see that from the treasury of the New York cor 
 poration, ten or twelve millions of dollars have 
 disappeared in three or four years, of which no one 
 knows anything, there being no vouchers to account 
 for the expenditure. What would Mr. Clark say 
 to such a state of things ? Cabs are also sadly 
 wanting in proper control. I don t often enter 
 one, if you do you must bargain, &c. On arrival 
 at a town a few miles out, a person goes through 
 
228 
 
 the train, asks you for your luggage ticket, which 
 you give him, each piece heiug numbered. He 
 then gives you a receipt and an omnibus check, you 
 pay him a quarter, twenty-live cents, about one 
 shilling, you take your seat in the bus, are 
 set down at your hotel, and in a few minutes your 
 luggage arrives there too, quite safe, so you need 
 not hire coaches, and have no trouble with porters; 
 it saves your time, your pocket, and your temper. 
 The luggage checks are pieces of brass, stamped 
 with a number, the initials of the railway company, 
 and the destination, and a similar piece is fastened 
 on the piece of luggage by a small strap, so that 
 no mistake can occur; a system that deserves 
 imitation. 
 
 I have filled this sheet with general, and I think 
 you will say not uninteresting items, short epi 
 sodes, and proceed again as usual. 
 
 STEUBENVILLE, October 22. 
 
 Mr. T J being still from home, we had 
 
 to confine our knowledge of Cincinnati to what we 
 could pick up, wandering about alone. It delights 
 in the title of " Porkopolis," from the large number 
 of hogs killed and the meat preserved here during 
 
the season, and certainly that swinish multitude is 
 allowed considerable license, and is permitted to 
 wander unquestioned throughout the principal 
 streets. In the course of our wanderings we saw all 
 of interest that we knew of; visited one of the largo 
 upholstery stores and manufactories for which Cin 
 cinnati is celebrated, and which constitutes a large 
 portion of its trade. We also saw one of the 
 immense steam fire-engines, of which there are 
 nine in the city ; they are drawn by four horses, 
 and the pumps are worked by steam-engines, 
 throwing a jet of water one inch and a quarter in 
 diameter to a height of two hundred and fifty feet. 
 On an alarm of fire the steam can be got up in 
 eight minutes ; the whole of the machinery is in 
 beautiful order, and regularly worked, so that any 
 defect may be discovered in time. 
 
 The telegraph system through the States is that 
 known as Morse s, in which a metallic point ticks 
 upon a plate, the point can make either a tick or a 
 dash ; a piece of paper run under the point by 
 clock-work receives a series of dots and dashes, 
 which constitute the telegraphic alphabet. At our 
 hotel there was a station, and the operator is a very 
 nice, civil, intelligent young man ; being a prac 
 tised operator he" did not use the slip of paper, but 
 merely sat and listened to the ticking of the instru 
 ment, and then read off the message, so that in 
 sending despatches it was really a conversation ; a 
 good ear, and some practice, is required to enable 
 
230 
 
 a person to work on this system. But he said so 
 accustomed was he, that he could tell what operator 
 was at work sending him a message at a distant 
 station, exactly as he could distinguish any one s 
 voice. 
 
 On Wednesday morning we left Cincinnati 
 with regret; should have left a day sooner, but 
 had made an arrangement, expecting to meet 
 
 Mr. J and had much matter 
 
 requiring time and no little fatigue to get over. 
 The weather has entirely changed, the evenings 
 are frosty and the mid- day warm, the leaves have 
 changed their tints, and are rapidly falling, so that 
 I fear the Indian summer is a myth. Leaving 
 Cincinnati by railway, we had a rather pretty 
 ride of one hundred and twenty miles to Columbus, 
 the capital of Ohio ; boasting an imposing Capitol, 
 to my taste heavy and ugly, Grecian in its archi 
 tecture, and one or two public buildings, but in 
 the main a dull and uninteresting place, still, one to 
 be seen as the specimen of a capital of a state so 
 important as Ohio. We left the next morning 
 without much regret, and took our places for Pitts- 
 burg two hundred and seventeen miles further. 
 We started late from some train delay, and on 
 arriving at Steubenville junction, our train with 
 which we should have connected had passed, and we 
 were compelled to remain all night in Steubenville. 
 We asked about hotels ; a gentleman in the car 
 said " Well, there are two, the < United States House 
 
231 
 
 and the Washington Hall ; whichever you go to, 
 you will wish you had gone to the other." Our lug 
 gage being checked through, was taken in charge by 
 the railway people, carrying only what was absolutely 
 necessary. We were directed on our way, and 
 reached the "United States," entered a filthy room, 
 full of loafish-looking fellows, " Can we have beds?" 
 " Yes, sir." But on pressing the landlord, we 
 found the bedrooms contained three or four, or 
 even more beds, and we declined. " Then I can t 
 accommodate you." " Very well," and off we set 
 to the other, entered a similar dirty hole, full of 
 rowdy fellows, betting and boasting. " Is this the 
 Washington House?" I enquired from a dirty-looking 
 youth behind a counter. " It is the Washington 
 Hall, Sir ! " " Oh, can we have bedrooms ? " "I 
 will tell you when the old man comes in," being 
 the landlord that he meant. Luck would have it 
 he found us a room, two beds, a small washstand, 
 and a hole in the ceiling, from which the plaster 
 had fallen. We had some supper served in a large 
 dirty back room, by a disgustingly filthy negro, 
 and I presume cooked by such another. I cannot 
 describe the beds ; I suggested that they were 
 made of the stalks of Indian corn, with just a sheet 
 between us and the stems. " No," said Eotherham, 
 " they are made of a cord of firewood, with the 
 ends sticking up." I laughed and went to sleep, 
 got up at six, not much refreshed. Our breakfast 
 was almost a repetition of the supper, except that 
 
232 
 
 the landlord waited upon us two, and got us every 
 thing fresh and hot, and would not let us eat what 
 the rest were consuming. I suppose two English 
 gentlemen were rarities in his house. How re 
 lieved we were to get away! 
 
 PITTSBUEG. 
 
 WE started from Steubenville at 9 20, passing 
 through a wild and beautiful country alongside the 
 river Ohio, arriving at the smoky American Bir 
 mingham, at 12 30. It is situated at the junction 
 of the rivers Alleghany and Moiiongahela, which, 
 when united, form the Ohio. The town is a very 
 dirty place, containing large iron and glass works, 
 and as this is a coal district, we have lost our 
 charming log fires, and return to coal and smuts. 
 
 We have been about the town; it does not 
 contain any very fine buildings, but has some 
 handsome bridges across the river. It is a busy, 
 bustling place, but I fear will suffer from the 
 general depression. To-morrow morning we start 
 at seven, and arrive, I hope, at Philadelphia, at 
 12 50 night, nearly eighteen hours rail. I have 
 been the last few days writing the accompanying 
 letter, which you can send to the " Guardian" 
 office ; if they like to publish it they can. * * * 
 
233 
 
 They talk of a general suspension ; many persons 
 I have casually met and conversed with say, " We 
 must all suspend, wipe off our debts, and begin 
 again." I suggested that such a course might ruin 
 the creditors. "Well, I am not going to ruin 
 myself." There s morality for you! I have not 
 alluded to such a state of things in my letter, it 
 would be injudicious. In fact I have not said half I 
 know. I consider the whole railway property gone ; 
 lines are suspending one after another, entirely from 
 wretched management. What do you think of 
 paying the President of a small line the sum of 
 25,000 dollars a year, equal to j5,000., not to do 
 anything, but because he is respectable, and can 
 raise money for them in an easy manner; the officials 
 eat up the whole receipts, leaving the bones for the 
 shareholders to pick if they like. I assure you it is 
 a sad state of things altogether. By the way, I 
 must not forget to tell you that Rotherham and I 
 got photographed together at Cincinnati. 
 
 PHILADELPHIA, SUNDAY MORNING. 
 
 RISING at half-past five yesterday morning we 
 went to the station, and started punctually at seven. 
 The train ran some distance through the town, 
 crossing streets, the engine bell ringing all the 
 
234 
 
 time. For the first two or three hours the road 
 passed through a fine settled country, but about 
 ten we came to the Alleghany Mountains, and 
 commenced a long, steep incline for many miles, 
 with the heaviest cuttings and works I have seen 
 in the States. Our route lay along a wild and 
 magnificent country 7 winding round in the most 
 extraordinary manner, by the side of mountain 
 gorges, crossing streams, the largest the Juniata. 
 At one point we went completely round one of the 
 gorges, the line winding as sharply as the road over 
 the hills to Buxton. At the top of the incline 
 we went through a tunnel, which runs through the 
 highest point of the mountains on our route, and 
 were then 2,500 feet above the sea. We stopped 
 at a place called Altoona, to dine, where there was 
 an excellent refreshment-room, more like our own 
 at Birmingham or Derby. Although not so wild, 
 the scenery was still fine, and continued so until 
 dusk. We had tea at Harrisburg, where the train 
 ran through the principal streets ; imagine a train 
 running down some of our streets ! About half-past 
 eleven we reached the outskirts of the " Quaker 
 City," the engine then left us, and horses were 
 harnessed to each car, and we were drawn in 
 this way into the town, through the streets to the 
 station ; our luggage tickets were given up, we took 
 a coach, and arrived at the Girard House, an excel 
 lent first-class hotel ; our luggage came soon after, 
 and taking supper, we went to bed, well tired with 
 
235 
 
 our journey of 353 miles. Buying a newspaper on 
 the way, we found Charles Matthews begins here 
 to-morrow night, so that in all probability he will 
 arrive at the hotel to-day, from Boston, and I mean 
 to stay over to-morow to see him, and leave on 
 Tuesday for New York, so that I may spend a quiet 
 day with Eotherham before we part. I expect to 
 see him in Boston, but it is just a chance. We 
 also found the opera company here who crossed in 
 the Asia with us. They are leaving to-night, en 
 route to Havana. It commenced raining heavily at 
 Harrisburg last evening, and still continues, so we 
 are home-bound, but glad that we are in good 
 quarters, for to be so fixed in some places we have 
 visited would be fearful. * * * 
 
 The ensuing winter will be the severest trial the 
 United States ever experienced, and I think it will 
 go hard with their institutions. There is no deny 
 ing the fact that mob-law is the only law here. It 
 may be a good country for the poor, but it is the 
 opposite for the rich. The grossest corruption 
 pervades the whole state, everything is political, 
 and even in the administration of justice party 
 feeling runs so high that the judges are not exempt 
 from influence. They are poorly paid, and politi 
 cally appointed, and on such a system cannot be 
 fair and impartial. I have before said that muni 
 cipal affairs are most wretchedly managed. At 
 Cincinnati, the other day, Rotherham, I, and the 
 telegraph young man were walking together, and I 
 
286 
 
 pointed to a man asleep in a doorway, and said, 
 " He is drunk, I suppose." " Oh no ; it is only a 
 policeman, taking a nap." Fancy one of ours 
 reposing during the time he is on duty, in a door 
 way, in a most public street ! 
 
 In New York they have just discovered a further 
 defalcation of eight million dollars in the public 
 funds gone, no one knows where or how. The 
 plunder obtainable is the great inducement for 
 taking office, and I do believe that even 
 Russian officials are pure compared with the bulk 
 of the American. I regret it should be so; but 
 the fact is the suffrage is too low, and obtained 
 with too great ease. Unless a more stringent law 
 be introduced, and put in execution, the political 
 future of the States is dark indeed. Don t imagine, 
 however, that my radicalism is affected not a bit 
 of it; I only deplore the evils of indiscriminate 
 universal suffrage. With us the suffrage is too 
 high, here it is much too low, and, as a conse 
 quence, the worst men get into power. I see at 
 New York the Corporation wants to do something 
 during the winter for the working classes, simply 
 because they fear their dangerous classes, just 
 as Louis Napoleon does those of Paris. Most of 
 the bankers have paid the smaller depositors but 
 refused the cheques of their large customers, because 
 they fear the consequences if the mob should 
 become enraged and jealous. They have the power 
 in their own hands, not only politically by their 
 
majority, but also physically by their numbers, as 
 there is no military force to keep them in order, 
 and virtually no police. If, therefore, a want of 
 food should follow the present crisis, what may be 
 the consequences no one can tell. There are 
 crowds of demagogues, all selfish in their aims, 
 who will seek to rise on the general prostration, 
 and can lead the masses as they please. I see in 
 some places they have formed committees to watch 
 the banks, and prevent merchants and others from 
 drawing out gold; if they attempt to do so they will 
 risk their lives. Give me the true, equal liberty of 
 England. There is more talk of it here, but less reality. 
 American equality is that which drags all down to 
 the lowest level. I trust I may see in the large 
 towns some society that may at least give me the 
 idea, that the well-dressed mobs I meet in travelling 
 are not their upper classes. 
 
 Rotherham and I have travelled together in the 
 States 4,307 miles, by steamboat and railway, and, 
 I thank God, without the least accident of any 
 kind, for which I feel truly grateful in my heart. 
 I never had a better travelling companion except 
 yourself. We have not had a moment s difference 
 of any sort, even the slightest, and are sorry we 
 cannot go farther together. He returns by the 
 Arabia, sailing on the 25th November, and goes at 
 once to Washington, and then, I hope, will meet 
 me for a day or two at Boston. * * * * 
 
 I got up at half-past five this (Tuesday) morning, 
 
238 
 
 took the train for New York, and went to my 
 old hotel, the Metropolitan ; there I found two letters 
 from you, and one from Sebastian. New York 
 looks strange ; every shop is selling off at or below 
 prime cost. I believe the ladies have rushed in 
 crowds, so much so that the proprietors had to put 
 up barriers, to keep off the excessive pressure. 
 The whole place has a panic-struck look. They 
 imagine the Bank of England will suspend cash 
 payments, on the receipt of the last or present mail; 
 the drain of bullion will be very great. * 
 
 [The following is the communication to the " Manchester 
 Guardian" which is referred to in the preceding 
 fetter.] 
 
 THE AMERICAN CRISIS. 
 
 To the Editor of the Manchester Guardian. 
 
 CINCINNATI, October 22, 1857. 
 
 SIE, 
 
 IT may not be uninteresting to your readers 
 at this particular juncture, to receive some few 
 remarks bearing on the present crisis in the United 
 States. Having arrived here from a tour in what 
 is now the Far West, I have had a favourable 
 opportunity of investigating some of the social 
 
239 
 
 causes which have led to the general suspension, 
 and the severe commercial depression through 
 which the people of the States are now passing. 
 For those who have not witnessed the extent of 
 the rapid territorial expansion which is now, and 
 has been taking place for the last four or live years, 
 it is a matter of difficulty, nay, almost of impossi 
 bility, to realise the amount of speculation which 
 has tended to diffuse an already scanty population 
 over an enormous extent of country, whilst the 
 Eastern States were concentrating on a sufficiently 
 large, but still manageable and accessible territory, 
 an industrious and thrifty people, absorbing, as 
 their wants and means warranted them in doing, 
 more and more land, and thus creating new states, 
 in accordance with the natural law of supply and 
 demand, the progress of the country in wealth and 
 sound material prosperity was placed on an unas 
 sailable basis. The tendency of the last few years 
 has entirely reversed the operation of this natural 
 law ; and, leaving behind vast tracts of fertile and 
 productive land in the middle states, the tide of 
 human life has flowed with unceasing rapidity to 
 those far regions in the West, where the white man 
 has again been brought into immediate contact 
 with the aboriginal owners of the soil. Towns and 
 cities have sprung up in those distant regions, with 
 all the wants and requirements of civilisation, yet 
 compelled to draw their supplies from the southern 
 and eastern seaboard, at a great cost for freight, 
 
240 
 
 and all other incidental charges, and owing their 
 existence solely to a furious spirit of speculation, 
 and a mad desire for the rapid achievement of 
 wealth. In their turn they have, if not created, at 
 least fostered, the unparalleled growth of their 
 intermediate cities, which rank as the gates of the 
 West, through which their supplies must be drawn. 
 In anticipation of future commercial greatness, the 
 price of real estate in such places as Chicago, has 
 touched a fabulous height. As an immediate 
 result, rents in that town are extravagantly great, 
 leading to a corresponding increase in the expenses 
 connected with all business transactions. Your 
 readers will hardly credit this statement, yet I can 
 vouch for the fact, that land in good business sites 
 in Chicago was selling in lots of 120 to 130 feet 
 deep, at prices ranging between 700 and 1,500 
 dollars per lineal foot of frontage, and a friend 
 pointed out to me a small wooden four-roomed 
 house, in a poorly-built street, which he inhabited 
 for a year or two, at an annual rental of ,150. 
 sterling, a house which, if tenantable at all in 
 England, would be thought dear at <20. per annum. 
 So fictitious is the value assigned to property in 
 perhaps one of the most prosperous cities of the 
 West. Not content, however, with the immense 
 outlay required for the purchase of land, the mer 
 chants of Chicago have vied with each other in the 
 erection of the most magnificent and imposing- 
 warehouses to be met with in any city in the world. 
 
241 
 
 We are inclined to regard Manchester as essentially 
 distinguished for its splendid mercantile edifices; 
 but the Queen City of the Prairies boasts of struc 
 tures equalling, if not exceeding ours in the beauty 
 and chasteness of their architecture, and the cost 
 liness of their materials. For the most part, the 
 fronts are constructed of cast-iron, or faced with 
 white marble, and in mere decoration have locked 
 up for ever an enormous amount of money that can 
 be ill spared in a new country. The owner of a 
 magnificent warehouse must possess a residence to 
 correspond ; and we find in the immediate vicinity 
 of Chicago, Buffalo, and even the less known 
 Detroit, mansions that would do no discredit to 
 Belgravia itself ; and hence a generally expensive 
 style of living becomes the fashion among those 
 classes who, with us, are carefully husbanding their 
 resources, to enable them to carry on their ordinary 
 business with the greater ease, derivable alone from 
 ampler means. Nevertheless, there are elements 
 of prosperity in Chicago, which must enrich its 
 future merchants, be the fate of the present race 
 what it may. Situated on Lake Michigan, it has 
 an uninterrupted communication by means of the 
 chain of inland seas and the mighty St. Lawrence 
 with the Atlantic ocean, except during the extreme 
 severity of the winter; and vessels laden with grain 
 have successfully completed the voyage between 
 Chicago and Liverpool. Its proximity to the 
 Canadian frontier has made it the chief point of 
 Q 
 
communication between the provinces and the 
 west, sharing with Buffalo the greater portion of 
 the trade which has been largely augmented by the 
 treaty of reciprocity. By the Sault St. Marie and 
 Lake Superior its sea-going vessels can penetrate 
 to the far west, and the construction of a few 
 auxiliary canals in connection with that lake would 
 place it in communication with the Mississippi, 
 and the enormous inland navigation associated with 
 that river. Under such favourable natural circum 
 stances, can we feel astonished that so great a field 
 for the wildest speculation should excite the 
 cupidity of our American brethren ? Few nations 
 could resist a temptation so magnificent. 
 
 Although the growth of Chicago has been unpre 
 cedented, and its increase of population beyond 
 credit, there were peculiar circumstances that 
 favoured this sudden developement, namely, the 
 almost simultaneous completion of the network of 
 railways centering here, and the boat canal joining 
 the Mississippi, for the carriage of grain, of which 
 I need not say Chicago promises to be the largest 
 emporium in the world. With these commercial 
 facilities thoroughly sound in themselves, the popu 
 lation has increased from about 20,000 in 1850 to 
 110,000 in 1857. Keceiving the produce of the 
 rich prairie land, it returns to these vast, open, and 
 rolling tracts, cargoes of lumber for the construc 
 tion of houses and farm buildings, and the various 
 supplies needed by the population, but depending 
 
243 
 
 for the maintenance of its position on the steady 
 settlement and improvement of the surrounding 
 country. But the cry is still "To the west;" 
 and, instead of bringing into cultivation the 
 prairies of Illinois, traversed by railways the 
 directors of which are unable to dispose, even at 
 low prices, of the land in the vicinity of their 
 lines the stream of emigration is losing itself on 
 the banks of the Mississippi, and the vast, and as 
 yet almost unknown tracts of Kansas, Nebraska, 
 Iowa, and Minnesota. One of these lines, the 
 Illinois Central, has become bankrupt, from the 
 fact principally that the directors have been unable 
 to sell their lands, through which the line passes, 
 so as to enable them to meet their engagements as 
 they became due. 
 
 Leaving Chicago, by a railway of which its 
 English shareholders, if there be any such, know 
 nothing, either with reference to the county of 
 Winsconsin, through which it passes, or the actual 
 state of the road itself, I visited the new city of 
 Madison, the capital of the state, most beautiful in 
 point of situation, but passing the understanding 
 of man to know why it was built, except that a 
 thinly peopled country, numbering, at the largest 
 and most liberal computation, one million souls, 
 inhabiting an area of thirty millions of acres, must 
 have immediately a capital city, laid out in metro 
 politan style, and boasting metropolitan edifices, 
 with an existence depending alone on the sessions 
 
244 
 
 of the state legislature. Again taking the railway, 
 which runs through an entirely unsettled country, 
 I reached the Mississippi at Prairie du Chien, arid 
 thence proceeded by a steamboat 400 miles up the 
 river, through a magnificent forest wilderness, with 
 here and there a few wooden houses, dignified by 
 the name of cities, bringing forcibly to mind 
 Dickens s description of Eden. Arriving at the city 
 of St. Paul, at the head of the river navigation, I 
 found there perhaps the best exemplar of the 
 present rage for land speculations. Four years ago 
 its name was almost unknown, except to the com 
 paratively few engaged in trading with the Indians, 
 who number some 60,000 in the state of Minne 
 sota. At that period a few wooden houses and log 
 huts, with some 300 residents at the most, con 
 stituted the entire town, which now contains up 
 wards of 10,000 inhabitants. Situated on one of 
 those bold and commanding bluffs, which constitute 
 a peculiar feature in the scenery of the upper 
 Mississippi, with an almost unlimited extent of 
 fertile prairie land on every side, awaiting the 
 plough and the hand of the husbandman, to yield 
 its abundant harvests, and standing at the head of 
 the river navigation, which is interrupted a few 
 miles higher up by the shallows and the falls of 
 St. Anthony, St. Paul has within itself the seeds of 
 future prosperity, which cannot, however, be 
 realised, until the surrounding territory is brought 
 into play ; the work, I may say, of centuries. 
 
245 
 
 Nevertheless, again in anticipation of what at some 
 future and distant period may be the value of the 
 land, building lots in the town are selling at the 
 most exaggerated prices, and the city laid out on 
 the scale of some European capital. Yet its sole 
 dependence for years must be the supply of the 
 scattered settlers inhabiting the open country and 
 one or two small towns in its immediate vicinity, 
 together with its old Indian trade, becoming more 
 and more limited as years pass away. On this, to 
 our notion, slender basis, a vast speculative super 
 structure is erected. So long as eager multitudes 
 pressed to the western El Dorado, and blindly 
 purchased land at any price, paying down in cash 
 a certain proportion of the purchase money, and 
 leaving the rest on mortgage, for a shorter or longer 
 term of years, at a high rate of interest, the original 
 proprietors were well satisfied, and believing in the 
 durability of their position, lived accordingly, and 
 to such a degree, that St. Paul s bore the distinction 
 of being the " fastest" city in the States. I need 
 hardly say that such are not the men required to 
 settle a new country, are unfit to cope with the 
 difficulties and privations of such a position, or to 
 follow in the footsteps of the hardy pioneers of 
 American greatness. 
 
 In founding these western cities, the projectors 
 appear to have no conception of waiting and per 
 mitting the due course of events to develope addi 
 tional building when required, but call forth, as by 
 
246 
 
 an enchanted wand, a vast collection of structures, 
 far removed from the settled country, and exceed 
 ing, in a great degree, the possible wants of the 
 people, leaving their support to depend on the 
 after settlement of the surrounding districts. So 
 long as the money or credit could be found this 
 system might endure; but the day of reckoning 
 was certain to arrive, being merely a question of 
 time and the extent of individual credulity. The 
 line must run out the limit has been reached 
 and now the certain re- action has commenced. At 
 the price of two months ago land is unsaleable in 
 St. Paul s, and its value is descending with the 
 utmost rapidity, although it may not yet have 
 reached the state of complete collapse which I 
 see, from the latest reports, has befallen the still 
 newer city of Superior, situated on the lake of the 
 same name, whose merchants, being unable to meet 
 the expenses of freight on one or two steamboat 
 cargoes recently arrived, the captains declined to 
 discharge, and have returned them to the shippers. 
 In addition to the vast amounts expended in 
 building new cities and erecting splendid edifices, 
 we must also bear in mind the rapid manner in 
 which the people of the States have constructed 
 an immense network of railways, extending from 
 the Atlantic Ocean beyond the Mississippi, and 
 from Canada to the Gulf of Mexico, covering the 
 country in every direction with numerous compet 
 ing lines, actually employing agents to tout for 
 
247 
 
 passengers. In the east these lines follow the 
 course and increase of population, and adapt 
 themselves to the service of towns in existence. 
 In the west, however, they precede population and 
 its possible wants for years to come, and pursue 
 their way from one terminal point to another, dis 
 tant two, three, or four hundred miles, totally 
 devoid of any wayside traffic, and dependent alone 
 on the through business from one of their distant 
 points to the other. Through boundless and silent 
 forests, over vast prairies, they make their solitary 
 way, and, from the facility and apparent cheapness 
 with which they have been constructed, have con 
 tributed largely to increase the mania for distant 
 settlements, by affording, at absurdly low fares, a 
 means of ready access to these remote regions, at 
 the cost of the unfortunate shareholders. Not 
 content with the great highways which nature has 
 so bountifully provided, railways run alongside the 
 rivers, competing for the traffic, thus needlessly 
 incurring large expenses, and encouraging an unne 
 cessary rivalry. Whilst in Virginia and Kentucky, 
 and other middle and fertile States, enormous 
 tracts of country lie in total neglect, covered with 
 valuable timber, and inviting settlers, the system 
 of excessive railroad extension has carried the 
 pioneers of civilisation into less promising regions, 
 where the value of the land has been raised artifi 
 cially, in place of encouraging that gradual and 
 really useful extension which, taking its departure 
 
248 
 
 from the seaboard, would cover the surface with its 
 surges of living water, each succeeding wave passing 
 a little in advance of its predecessor, instead of 
 those spasmodic efforts which may force some small 
 portions into narrow and distant channels, there to 
 stagnate until the refreshing tide can absorb them 
 into its vaster and purer mass. Of the manage 
 ment of these railways I will not venture to speak ; 
 but I feel certain that many of them will require 
 vast outlays of money to render them permanently 
 available. Built cheaply, badly laid, and imper 
 fectly ballasted, a few years will render their recon 
 struction in a great degree absolutely necessary, 
 and if, by any accident, the means should not be 
 forthcoming when wanted, the insecure position of 
 western property becomes at once clearly manifest. 
 To many of the eastern roads these remarks do not 
 apply; they refer to those extended lines which 
 intersect the western States. 
 
 With so rapid a conversion of the floating and 
 available capital of the nation into a fixed, and, I 
 fear, to a great extent, unremunerative form, it 
 would be impossible to expect any other effect than 
 the present existing prostration; and when, in 
 addition, we call to mind the large importation of 
 expensive manufactures which has been taking 
 place for some time, exhibiting a taste for lavish 
 individual expenditure, we are compelled to draw 
 the inference, that the people have been living far 
 beyond their means, at the same time that they 
 
249 
 
 have extended their commercial undertakings, 
 without reference to their power of successfully 
 carrying them on when completed. Among a cer 
 tain party there is a tendency to refer the present 
 disaster to the changes in the tariff. A little 
 consideration of the simple laws of political economy 
 will convince even the most sceptical, that the evils 
 arise from the causes to which I have referred. 
 There is, however, no ground for despondency ; 
 the material resources of this country are too vast, 
 and its population, in the main, too industrious, to 
 admit of any doubt of a speedy return to more 
 prosperous days. To arrive at that result, how 
 ever, the present over-reaching policy of rapid 
 extension must be abandoned, and greater efforts 
 made for the concentration of the population. A 
 wandering and an unsettled spirit has been encour 
 aged ; and, without local attachments, the people 
 pass from place to place, trying here, trying there; 
 and thus fritter away their time and their energy 
 in unmeaning and useless changes. It was not 
 thus that the early settlers succeeded in their 
 struggles, and founded a mighty empire ; and it is 
 only by a return to a mode of procedure similar to 
 theirs, and in accordance with the improved 
 opportunities of modern times, that a permanent 
 condition of prosperity can be induced. 
 
 An Englishman must ever feel a deep and 
 sincere interest, apart from all selfish considera 
 tions, in the progress and welfare of the United 
 
250 
 
 States. Connected by every tie that is held most 
 sacred among men, speaking a common lan 
 guage recognising the same great principles of 
 liberty acknowledging the same laws, England 
 and America have too many points of sympathy to 
 render the one country indifferent to the prosperity 
 of the other, and when a season of adversity arrives, 
 from whatever cause, the suffering induced is felt 
 with a greater or less intensity on both sides of the 
 Atlantic. It is impossible to travel over any 
 considerable portion of this western world, and to 
 mingle freely with its people, without being deeply 
 impressed by the strong affection for what is 
 fondly termed the " old country," manifested on all 
 sides, and their anxiety to show that, in spite of 
 ephemeral political differences, they are one with 
 us in everything that constitutes the unity of a 
 nation, except the mere name, and I esteem it 
 essentially a duty to reciprocate this feeling on 
 every possible occasion. 
 
 The very difficulties of the present crisis arise 
 from an excess of that spirit, which springs from 
 the innate energy of the Anglo-Saxon race, and 
 the temporary adversity will serve, I sincerely 
 believe, to direct it into other and more remu 
 nerative channels, and be the precursor of a long 
 and unbroken career of prosperity. 
 
 Truly yours, 
 
 JOHN A. NICHOLLS. 
 
251 
 
 REVERE HOUSE, BOSTON, 
 
 Sunday Evening, November 1, 1857. 
 
 MY DEAR MAMMA, 
 
 I TOLD you at the end of my last letter 
 that I might miss a mail, but I cannot refrain from 
 sending you a few lines, although I tell you at the 
 outset this will be a meagre epistle. After I posted 
 my last Bristow came in, looking ill and thin ; he 
 was delighted to see me, and begged so hard that I 
 consented to remain in New York until Friday 
 morning, a day longer than I had resolved to do. 
 Up to Thursday evening it rained in torrents, and 
 was extremely cold, so that after all, my sacrifice of 
 a day really cost me nothing. On Wednesday 
 afternoon the Persia arrived, and that evening, 
 through Mr. Ferguson s great kindness in sending 
 up his clerk on purpose, I received your welcome 
 letters ; it seemed almost like a return by post, 
 instead of the long anxious waiting I have had 
 before. Finding from your letter that Lewis Young 
 and Henry Shawcross were coming by the Persia, I 
 looked over the passenger list, and meeting their 
 names duly inscribed, Bristow and I set off to search 
 
252 
 
 for them, and in ten minutes time, discovered 
 them both at the New York Hotel. We were all 
 much pleased to meet, and enjoyed a good long 
 chat together. * * * Our good old ship 
 
 duly sailed out, and I should have gone and seen 
 them off, but intending to leave the next day, I 
 wished to see Mr. Ferguson. He quite laughed at 
 the idea of the Bank of England suspending, but 
 I do think some of these Yankees would feel 
 proud if their panic should have had so severe 
 an effect. 
 
 I don t much like New York, there is just one 
 street, the Broadway, to which the whole population 
 flock, rendered all but impassable by the women s 
 hoops, empty boxes, packages, &c. 
 
 I was glad when Friday came. I got up at six, 
 and started at eight, by railway, for Boston. The 
 cars were drawn out of the station by horses, and 
 the train formed in the street, just as though cur 
 carriages for London were all on Bank Top, 
 with the engine waiting to take them on. The 
 train ran through the town, with a good view of 
 the extensions taking place, which must in time 
 make Manhattan Island one vast city, crossing the 
 Harlem river on a drawbridge, where some years 
 ago a frightful accident occurred, from a train 
 rushing over when the bridge was open, pre 
 cipitating the unfortunate people in the deep water, 
 and drowning a vast number. The road runs by 
 the side of Long Island Sound, and is extremely 
 
beautiful, from the lovely glimpses of the bright 
 water. The country had all day a more settled 
 appearance, good cultivation, and although many 
 wooden houses, still possessing a substantial look. 
 After passing through the pretty town of New- 
 haven, we turned from the sea, and ran by the 
 Connecticut river to Springfield, then on to 
 Worcester, and finally reached Boston, about a 
 quarter-past five, 236 miles. We had one little 
 accident on the road between Springfield and 
 Worcester, the train suddenly stopped, and then 
 ran back some distance people all looked out, and 
 crowded the platforms of the cars, so I got out 
 with the rest, when the train stood still, and found 
 that the cow catcher, a large iron frame attached 
 to the front of the engine, had struck a calf that 
 had strayed on the line, and smashed one of its 
 hind legs. I did pity the poor creature, and so did 
 all the passengers they wanted the conductor to 
 kill it ; some one brought him an axe, but he said 
 he knew better, and so pushed it through the fence, 
 to wait until the owner came. There were several 
 cows in the field, and they all stood still, looking 
 at the calf in the most extraordinary manner, as 
 though quite aware that something had happened, 
 their looks were perfectly indescribable; several 
 persons noticed the circumstance with astonish 
 ment. 
 
 Entering Boston, we came over a species of 
 causeway constructed in the water, and arriving at 
 
254 
 
 the station, the Revere House coach took me to 
 the hotel. The town is built on a peninsula, and is 
 much elevated toward the centre, there the State 
 House is built, towering over the rest of the city. 
 When I got in, I felt very unwell, I had got cold 
 from the change of climate, and had a pain in my 
 side, so, at half-past seven I took a hot bath, and 
 went to bed ; next morning I was much better, 
 but did not feel disposed for much exertion. 
 
 I called on Mr. B , to whom I had a letter 
 
 from Mr. Wildes. I am to see him again to-morrow, 
 when he will introduce me to the Mayor. I then 
 walked to the common, the docks, and made out 
 some of the localities. Boston is not built on the 
 modern American plan, all square streets, but on 
 the old system, streets running about as they please. 
 I saw the outside of the Faneuil Hall, so celebrated 
 in the revolution. I did no more that day, but sat 
 quietly in the evening, and went to bed early. 
 This morning I went to the Federal Street Church, 
 where Channing used to preach, and heard an 
 excellent discourse by Dr. Gannett. It is a nice, 
 clean-looking, old-fashioned place. The gentleman 
 I sat with kindly said I could come to his pew 
 when I wished. The pulpit was very wide, and the 
 minister sat down, quite away from the desk, 
 during the singing, performed by the choir, and 
 not joined in by the congregation, who all sat still 
 and listened. I do not like that way ; I prefer to 
 hear the voices of all united. 
 
255 
 
 Three or four times during the sermon the 
 minister coughed, cleared his throat, and leaning 
 to one side, gave a good genuine spit out, so I pre 
 sume, must have been furnished with a spittoon, 
 which article I saw was in all the pews ; fancy, at 
 the end of a beautiful passage, a climax in the 
 divisions of the sermon, the preacher spitting out, 
 and then wiping his mouth with his handkerchief? 
 What should we say if Mr. Gaskell did so ? I will 
 ask him, when I see him, how he would feel under 
 similar circumstances. It disgusted me, and I 
 hoped, in my mind, that Dr. Channing did not spit 
 in the pulpit, yet I fear the practice is universal 
 in places of worship. There are nearly twenty 
 Unitarian churches here, our body being the 
 largest and most influential in this city. 
 
 To-morrow my work will begin with a thorough 
 investigation of the school system of Massachusetts, 
 the best in the world. I shall visit Lowell, 
 Lawrence, Cambridge, and Providence, and if I 
 can, Plymouth, where the Pilgrim fathers landed. 
 The weather is taking up again; I feel better, 
 though not quite well, so must be careful for a few 
 days. 
 
256 
 
 TUESDAY EVENING. 
 
 YESTERDAY Mr. B introduced me to the 
 
 Mayor of Boston, the Hon. Mr. Rice, who devoted 
 five hours to me, and took me nearly all over the 
 town, showing me all that it was possible to do in 
 the time ; but a special description of what I saw I 
 shall leave till my next letter, which must be written 
 more quietly than the one I am now sending. 
 
 This morning Rotherham and Bristow woke me 
 up at seven, having arrived from New York by the 
 Fall River boat and rail. I had a letter from Ro 
 therham, saying he was so very dull by himself, 
 and was running on, to be here as to-morrow 
 morning, but it seems the lad got so much duller 
 that he came on at once. 
 
 To-morrow Bristow leaves for England, by the 
 Europa, a very fine ship ; we went on board her to 
 day, and could almost have fancied ourselves on 
 our beloved Asia. I shall not be able, I am sorry 
 to say, to see him off, because I have an appoint 
 ment with the Inspector of Schools at nine, to go 
 round with him and visit some of the schools 
 in Boston ; he is giving the day to me for that 
 purpose, at the request of the Mayor, to whom I 
 am under great obligations. 
 
 There has been an election to-day for State 
 
257 
 
 Governor, and other officers. We have just heard 
 the new Governor make a speech. I went with the 
 Mayor into one of the polling booths. 
 
 I shall write by the next steamer, the Persia, from 
 New York, and I think even now I have materials 
 for a most interesting letter, but I could not 
 possibly do justice to it at present. I have seen 
 some things which have given me more pleasure than 
 anything I have met with in the States, so I shall 
 leave you in suspense for one short week. 
 
 I have quite got over my cold, and am perfectly 
 well again. 
 
 BOSTON, 
 
 November 8th, 1857. 
 
 MY DEAR MAMMA, 
 
 I DESPATCHED my last letter per Bristow, 
 which no doubt will arrive as soon as if duly posted. 
 I told you but little therein, as my time had been 
 too much occupied to have left any space for letter 
 writing. 
 
 On Wednesday morning, the Mayor went out 
 
 with me to show me the arrangements connected 
 R 
 
258 
 
 with the fire department. The city is divided into 
 wards as usual, and each ward into several fire dis 
 tricts, at each of which there is a means of com 
 municating with a central office by telegraphic 
 wires. To this central office we went, and ascend 
 ing a flight of stairs in a house close to the City 
 Hall, we came to a room on one side of which the 
 telegraphic apparatus was arranged. When a fire 
 takes place, whoever discovers it runs to one of the 
 stations, say No. 1 Ward, No. 5 Station. The 
 station is an iron box fastened to a wall, with the 
 telegraphic wire carried from it over the house to 
 the central office. Obtaining the key, a handle 
 inside the box is turned, which rings a bell in the 
 principal office, and records on a strip of paper 
 the number of the ward and station ; and the 
 apparatus is so contrived that that particular 
 handle can only be turned so as to make one par 
 ticular sign. 
 
 The person in charge of the office at once sets in 
 motion an apparatus communicating with every 
 church bell in the city, which tolls one for the num 
 ber of the ward, or whatever the number of this may 
 be, and at the same time, a second, which ticks in 
 these iron boxes the number of the district. Thus, 
 hearing the bells toll the number of the ward, the 
 firemen know at once which to make their way to, 
 and passing any of the iron boxes, and placing 
 their ears pretty close, can hear the number of the 
 district by the ticking sound, and thus go directly 
 
259 
 
 to the seat of the fire. I certainly never saw any 
 thing more perfect and complete. It saves a great 
 loss of time, and all uncertainty, because the signals 
 are not sent, unless some one known to the holder 
 of the key brings the information, preventing false 
 alarms at the central office. 
 
 After spending some time in examining the 
 apparatus and the working details, we visited the 
 police department and prison cells. There was a 
 large collection of people awaiting their turn to go 
 before the Justices. In the office of the head of 
 the police, is a curious collection of criminal cu 
 riosities, such as knives with which murders had 
 been committed, and the rope with which the 
 Professor Dr. Webster was hung for the murder of 
 Dr. Parkman, a crime which produced a terrible 
 effect in Boston society some few years ago. We 
 then took a coach, and drove to the city prisons. 
 The cells are different to ours ; the windows are 
 large, and to the outside, and the cells receive their 
 light by barred windows, and opened barred doors 
 looking on to the galleries running round, and 
 through the outside windows. They seemed pretty 
 full ; among the prisoners I saw two condemned to 
 death for murder, each chained by the leg. 
 
 The law allows a condemned criminal one year 
 between sentence and execution, and as the execu 
 tion depends on the will of the State Governor, 
 there is a good deal of uncertainty as to whether 
 the law be permitted to take its course or not. 
 
260 
 
 From this prison we went to the State Room, and 
 finding the Sergeant- at- Arms, he sent a person 
 with us, who showed us the Senate House and 
 Chamber of Representatives. 
 
 In the Senate House are several of the pictures 
 of early Colonial Governors of Massachusetts, and 
 opposite the President, on the wall above the 
 entrance, are a drum, musket, and sword, taken, I 
 regret to say, from the British during the War of 
 Independence, and hung up as a waming to all 
 British drummers for future ages. It is a hand 
 some chamber, and each member has his own seat 
 and desk : in the lower houses the seats are benches. 
 We went through the Governor s office to see him, 
 but he was not in ; and then ascended to the 
 lantern at the top of the dome, from which we had 
 a magnificent view over the city, the harbour, the 
 ocean beyond, and the suburbs, the towns of Cam 
 bridge, Charleytown, and Roxbury, and South and 
 East Boston. The State House stands on the old 
 Beacon Hill, and the gilded top of the cupola, seen 
 far out at sea, is hailed by the mariners as the first 
 indication of making the land. Down stairs are 
 some tablets which were placed round the base of 
 an old pillar that stood there, erected in honour of 
 the heroes of the Revolution. In the entrance 
 hall there is a statue of Washington by Chantrey, 
 a very fine work indeed. We visited the adju 
 tant general commanding the troops in the States, 
 to whom the Mayor introduced me, and he showed 
 
261 
 
 me specimens of their military arms, and also two 
 old American drums, that had been beaten at 
 Bunker s Hill and Lexington. 
 
 Close to the State House stands an old stone 
 house I presume one of the oldest in the city cele 
 brated as havingbeen the residence of John Hancock, 
 the first signer of the Declaration of Independence. 
 From the State House we went to the Athenaeum, 
 which is an excellent library; and where I was 
 introduced to the librarian. He took me into a small 
 room, and showed me Washington s private library, 
 each volume having " G. Washington " written in 
 it by his own hand, and in one the names of his 
 father and mother, also autographs. I assure you 
 I looked on the hand- writing of Washington with 
 the greatest respect. In their collection, they have 
 the first book printed in America a copy of the 
 New Testament, translated into some Indian dialect 
 now unknown arid unreadable. In the same build 
 ing there is a collection of pictures, many certainly 
 not art treasures : but there is the original unfin 
 ished picture of Washington by Stuart, of which 
 only the face is completed, and is the standard 
 from which all others have been taken. Near here 
 is an old cemetery containing an obelisk, placed 
 over the remains of Franklin s father and mother. 
 In this way we spent five hours, and I felt much 
 indebted to the Mayor for giving me more than 
 half the day. 
 
 I told you that on Tuesday morning I went with 
 
262 
 
 the Mayor into the voting booths, to see the mode 
 of voting. The different parties print tickets, con 
 taining the name they have decided upon, and each 
 voter places the ticket he selects in a box, and his 
 name is checked as having voted; for here there 
 is a proper registration, fully carried out, so as to 
 render duplicate or illegal voting impossible. Every 
 man of twenty-one, paying a dollar and a half a 
 year, has a vote. This poll-tax is the qualification, 
 so that there is not absolutely universal suffrage 
 a tax must be paid, or there is no vote. The next 
 morning I bid Bristow good-bye, and leaving Ro- 
 therham to see him off joined the School Superin 
 tendent, with whom I went to the High School, 
 consisting of two departments : the English, or 
 commencing, and the Latin, or collegiate. In all 
 the details I was convinced that the boys were 
 thoroughly well grounded. I do not think I ever 
 saw greater accuracy of information, especially in 
 the Latin school. By means of excellent maps 
 and photographs, the boys are as familiar with the 
 topography of Rome and Athens as if they had 
 been there. Each boy has a separate desk and 
 chair, and stands out to answer his question or 
 read his part, with his hand resting on the desk, 
 in the most self-possessed manner possible. I 
 remained till two (from nine) in the schools, and 
 when I was leaving I told the head-master and 
 superintendent that 1 was very much pleased with 
 the mental attainments displayed, but, I said " they 
 
263 
 
 are not boys; I have not seen a boy in your country, 
 and have with me a real specimen of an English 
 lad that would thrash your whole school." Never 
 did I see such a collection of anxious faces in my 
 life : pale, sallow, nerveless-looking creatures. I 
 do believe not a row among the lot. The next 
 day I spent the same time in inspecting two other 
 schools and one grammar school, and there I saw 
 the boys at play. I looked into a large yard where 
 they were, walking about, talking politics, perhaps 
 chewing, not a jump or a bit of a lark going on 
 among them. I pointed this out to the master, 
 and told him however much I might admire the 
 mental exercise, and the excellence of the scholastic 
 training, there was a want of physical training that 
 would nullify the whole. The superintendent and 
 the head master had read " Arnold s Life," from 
 which they had obtained an insight into English 
 public school life they had never before met with, 
 and agreed with me that they had a very great 
 deficiency in this respect. 
 
 I was much pleased with the common primary 
 schools I visited. The teachers are mostly females, 
 and the system decidedly good. The superinten 
 dent is a very superior man, and is doing a great 
 work in improving the elementary modes of teaching. 
 
 Whilst I was with the Mayor, a person came in, 
 and gave him a paper; he told me this was " a 
 truant officer," whose duty it is to visit the scholars 
 in his district, and search out all truants, and 
 
264 
 
 compel their parents to send them. All children 
 found in the street are taken to school ; all schools 
 are perfectly free no payment whatever, and, if 
 they are unable to find their own hooks, the State 
 pays for them. Thus, in Boston, more than one- 
 fourth of the total taxation of the city is expended 
 on education. I got a large number of documents 
 from the superintendent. He gave me reports for 
 several years back, and the State report, as well as 
 some specimens of their school books. After 
 completing my visits, I took Rotherham with me, 
 and introduced him to the Mayor. His honor and I 
 had then a long talk about city matters, and my 
 impressions of what I had seen. I said I disap 
 proved of the want of physical training, and, in 
 fact, the entire management of children in the 
 States, in which he entirely agrees with me. 
 
 I told the Mayor I should much like to have a 
 copy of their Corporation Manual, and to my sur 
 prise he gave me one, handsomely bound two 
 more large volumes, full bound, gilt edged, being 
 copies of the proceedings of the Boston Council 
 for the year 1856, and a large volume, being a copy 
 of all acts and documents relating to the govern 
 ment of the city. From these I can complete my 
 information relative to Boston. 
 
 A friend of Rotherham s invited us to dine at 
 Parker s, a capital restaurant here ; our fourth was 
 a Mr. Gilman, whom Charles Matthews wishes to 
 meet; he is an architect, and a most amusing man. 
 
265 
 
 We dined with them on Thursday and Friday ; we 
 also took a walk with them, and met Everett, and 
 Prescott, the author of " The Lives of Ferdinand 
 and Isabella." Oilman amused us very much ; he 
 has been in Europe, and thinks there is no place 
 like England ; never lowered himself by giving a 
 vote in his life, but considers himself as an unfortu 
 nate subject of Queen Victoria s, living here in exile. 
 
 Rotherham left me on Saturday, and I think 
 would meet Oilman, who went by the same train 
 to Buffalo, where he is going to give a lecture on 
 " Characteristics of New England humour," which 
 I should much like to hear ; he has a fund of good 
 stories, and is an excellent mimic. 
 
 I saw Mr. Lawrence, and he will have tickets for 
 me to go on Monday to Lawrence, and, if I can, 
 Lowell; one is exactly the same as the other, 
 Lawrence being the new town. I then visited the 
 State Courts, and must say I prefer the state and 
 pomp of our judicial bench. A judge in a black 
 coat and dirty collar does not look well, and the 
 barrister, standing with his back to him, talks to 
 the jury. In the Police Court, the police and 
 magistrates were talking a case all over together, 
 but quite devoid of all respect of any kind. 
 
 Mr. J has very kindly put my name down at 
 
 the club, so that I have admission for a month. 
 On Thursday morning I met another of our Asia 
 friends, a young man Matthews christened Ovidius 
 Naso. The Asia, you will begin to think, is a 
 
266 
 
 widow s cruse, inexhaustible in its resources and 
 reminiscenses. 
 
 I had intended visiting Plymouth on Saturday, 
 but supposing there were plenty of trains, found 
 only one suitable, 8 10 in the morning, and as I 
 made the discovery at half-past eight, it was too 
 late. I went off to Bunker s Hill, and passing the 
 State prison in my way, applied for leave to visit it, 
 which was granted, and a warder took me through. 
 The system is a self-supporting one. The pri 
 soners are not allowed to speak to each other; they 
 wear a curious dress, half red, half white, like 
 Touchstone s motley. Their labour is let out to 
 contractors. Thus, a large upholsterer has made a 
 contract with the state, he pays for each prisoner s 
 labour from thirty-five to fifty-two cents per day, 
 which pays for the prisoner s support; he finds 
 tools, materials, power, and teachers, and keeps 
 the prisoners busily employed in making chairs, 
 tables, &c. Another set are engaged in shoe- 
 making, another in brushmaking, another in the 
 manufacture of whips, and sundry others in the 
 various departments of smith work, and also in 
 dressing stone. There is a good deal to be said 
 on both sides of the question, and this system has 
 some advantages. Their cells are very comfortless, 
 merely a mattrass, no furniture. I saw the kitchen, 
 and their food is decidedly inferior to ours, but 
 they have as much black bread allowed them as 
 they can eat. 
 
267 
 
 Hence I made a painful pilgrimage to Bunker s 
 Hill, and lamented to see a place where my country 
 was defeated, though I more regretted the folly of 
 stupid old George Rex and our Tory rulers. There 
 is no shame from such a defeat, the shame would 
 have been in victory. The monument is an obelisk, 
 quite plain, and no inscription to offend an English 
 man. From here I went to the navy yard, and saw 
 one of their fine new men-of-war, the Roanoake, 
 built two years ago, and so rotten now they are 
 cutting off her outside planking, I presume to put 
 it all on again new. She has the dry rot in her 
 timber ; her armament is large ; I saw all her guns 
 on the wharf. I then got back into Boston, and 
 saw and really walked through the Faneuil Hall 
 Market, and thought of you. This reminds me 
 that I omitted saying that I went into Faneuil Hall, 
 the great focus of revolution. It was built and 
 given to the town by Mr. Faneuil, a rich merchant; 
 his picture is on one side, and Washington s on the 
 other, of the platform. 
 
 On Thursday I went to Harvard, and presented 
 my letter to the Professor Bond. His son shewed 
 me the Observatory, which contains one of the most 
 magnificent equatorials in the world, similar to the 
 one at Pultowa, in Russia; he also showed me 
 their mode of transit, observing of telegraphs, and 
 was very polite indeed. 
 
 On Saturday, after dinner, I revisited Cambridge, 
 and called on Mr. Longfellow, who resides at the 
 
268 
 
 house that was Washington s head quarters. Un 
 fortunately Mr. Longfellow was not at home, so I 
 went on a little farther, and visited the beautiful 
 cemetery of Mount Auburn, filled with handsome 
 monuments, a provincial Pere la Chaise ; all the 
 tombs are white marble ; I found Spurzheim s and 
 Abbot Lawrence s a cenotaph to Franklin, who 
 was born at Boston. The ground undulates a great 
 deal, and therefore the effect is more beautiful. 
 
 This morning I went to hear Theodore Parker ; 
 he lectured in the Music Hall, and I heard a 
 splendid discourse. I presume he does not belong 
 to any body of a sectarian character, but is more 
 Unitarian than anything else. His sermon was 
 from the text, " Glory to God in the highest, and 
 on earth peace, goodwill toward men." He dwelt 
 largely on the importance of education, and com 
 pared New England with South Carolina, visiting 
 severely the sin of slave-holding. He divided his 
 discourse into three true ideas in religion. First, 
 the recognition of a higher law of action ; second, 
 the duties of charity; third, the importance of 
 education. In some remarks on the Roman Ca 
 tholic religion, and its contrast with the Protestant, 
 he dwelt on the remaining feudalism in England, 
 but still could not help calling it " that dear old 
 island." The service commenced with a hymn, 
 then a prayer, after which he read some scattered 
 passages from the Bible, then a hymn, then his 
 sermon, and I presume it lasted an hour, which 
 
209 
 
 appeared but as a few minutes ; it seemed to be a 
 written discourse, or, certainly, he had copious 
 notes. 
 
 In the afternoon I went to the Melodeon to hear 
 Mrs. Cora Hatch preach. I paid ten cents ad 
 mission, 5d., and found myself one of a large 
 audience. The service began by four women 
 singing a hymn, and then Mrs. Cora Hatch stepped 
 up to a desk. She is seventeen, and preaches or 
 lectures on any subject at a moment s notice, by 
 means of Spiritualism that is to say, she is in 
 spired, and the medium uses her tongue to utter its 
 spiritual lessons to the world. She is a pale, flaxen- 
 haired looking mortal ; and, folding her hands, in a 
 rather agreeable tone of voice, began a prayer, and 
 when that was ended, informed us that she should 
 have preferred some of the audience to have given 
 her a subject, but that her medium was not quite 
 well. In the evening, however, at seven, a com 
 mittee of the audience was to be appointed to fix 
 on the subject. She would, therefore, preach " On 
 the Internal and External Beauty," and commenced 
 a flow of such rubbish as I think I never heard 
 before ; not one single idea, but, no doubt, a great 
 command of mere words. I thought of Dickens s 
 description of a woman commencing an address to 
 Martin Chuzzlewit, " Howls the sublime." She 
 talked about etarnal melodies, and harmonies, and 
 vibrations, and astronomy, geology, botany, paint 
 ing, sculpture, everything. Her definition of beauty 
 
270 
 
 was very fine, " Beauty is that which strikes our 
 minds and souls with the idea of the beautiful." 
 Memory was spontaneous, and arose from spontaneity 
 of nature, and so on. I thought it dear at five- 
 pence. After she had finished, she regretted it 
 was not so good, but her medium was ill, and fold 
 ing her hands on her face, her husband took her 
 in his arms, and replaced her on her seat, and 
 then the four women howled another hymn, but I 
 escaped before its completion, thoroughly well tired 
 of Spiritualism. I wish Plymouth was done, and 
 as it is a day s affair to see a bit of rock the Pilgrim 
 Fathers landed on, I almost think I shall shirk it, 
 having so much more of importance to see here; 
 and now my time draws on apace. We have 
 changeable weather : last evening Nowlan and I sat 
 in the hotel porch till after nine, quite warm ; 
 to-day, a Scotch mist, damp and cold. 
 
 I had no idea that Boston would have taken so 
 much time to see properly. There, I must stop ; 
 I have been writing over three hours. I am glad 
 to have so much information, and documents, from 
 which I can fully inform myself on the education 
 question. Of course I do not fill up my letters, as 
 I could easily do, with an account of school organi 
 zation, and so forth, that would not interest you, 
 but rather give a sketch of what I have seen. 
 Had it not been for the Mayor s great kindness, 
 I could not have seen or learned so much as I 
 have. 
 
271 
 
 MONDAY. This morning I have been to Law 
 rence, but really that is all, the mills are all stand 
 ing. Not meeting with Mr. Lawrence, according 
 to promise, I could not see what I wished it is 
 all coarse work, and I can see just the same at 
 home. The rooms are beautifully clean, and are 
 arranged more like show places than real hard 
 working shops. 
 
 PHILADELPHIA, 
 
 November IQth, 1857. 
 
 MY DEAR MAMMA, 
 
 MY letter by the Persia would inform 
 you of my proceedings up to Monday. Last Tues 
 day the Mayor of Boston almost entirely devoted to 
 me. We visited the House of Correction, and the 
 City Lunatic Asylum, both well-conducted estab 
 lishments. In the latter I saw one poor old 
 woman, who believed herself to be the Queen 
 of England, Queen Joanna, married to Charle 
 magne, who resided in Boston. I never visited a 
 mad-house before, and was most painfully impressed 
 with poor humanity divested of the godlike power 
 of reason. The patients are kept clean, and, with 
 some few exceptions, have little restraint. The 
 
House of Correction is on the same principle as 
 the State prison, namely, the remunerative labour 
 system. The Mayor gave nie a number of addi 
 tional documents he obtained from the Governor 
 for me, and begged my acceptance of a large 
 handsome volume, containing an account of the 
 proceedings connected with the inauguration of 
 the fine statue of Franklin, which stands behind 
 the State House, in Boston. I then dined with 
 the Mayor, at Parker s restaurant, and attended a 
 meeting of the Public School Committee, and had 
 an opportunity of seeing how their public business 
 is conducted. 
 
 Mr. Rice gave me a kind and special letter of 
 introduction to Mr. Yaux, the Mayor of Phila 
 delphia, and then, with deep regret, I said good 
 bye, and expressed rny sincere gratitude for all his 
 kindness. 
 
 Wednesday, I returned by rail to New York, and 
 went to rny old quarters at the Metropolitan, where, 
 and here at the Girard House, I feel quite at home. 
 My darkies welcomed me, and I had the same 
 rooms again. Did not stir out of the hotel that 
 evening, being thoroughly well tired. 
 
 Thursday, I was very busy all day ; bought a new 
 trunk, which I completely filled. The operation 
 took me some time. The spare trunk I left at the 
 hotel, in the baggage room. They will take care 
 of anything for me, which saves me a deal of 
 trouble. 
 
273 
 
 The Arabia having arrived, I went on Friday 
 morning to see if Mr. Robert Gourdin had come, but 
 did not meet with him. I met a newspaper Loy, 
 "Want an extra, Sir; Arabia s news? I said 
 " No," but casting my eyes on the paper, I saw 
 " Capture of Delhi 1" I seized the lad by the arm. 
 " Give me that paper," and then I gave a shout, I 
 could not have kept it in for the life of me. Here 
 the people rejoice just as much as though it were 
 a pure American victory. 
 
 On Saturday morning I called upon the Mayor of 
 Philadelphia; he was not in. When I returned 
 
 to the hotel I found a card from Mr. C ; he 
 
 called three times on that day, and again on Sunday 
 morning, very early. I did not see him, but called 
 
 up about one, and found it was s brother, 
 
 who had seen my name in the list of arrivals at the 
 Girard, and caUed upon me. He has been ten 
 years in America, and was glad to see some one who 
 knew Manchester. I then went to the club, and 
 left a letter of introduction to Mr. Barclay, from 
 whom, in the evening, I received a circular, telhng 
 me my name was down at the club, and inviting me 
 to use it whilst in town, the invitation being good 
 
 for a month. On Sunday evening I went to C s 
 
 rooms; he lives at a boarding house, and I was glad 
 to see what they were like, and had tea with him 
 and the rest of the inmates. 
 
 This morning I called upon the Mayor, and had 
 a long chat with him, " he will put me through, and 
 
274 
 
 show me the elephants (these are genuine Yankee 
 phrases). He calls for me in the morning at nine, 
 and will give some time to me each day. I then 
 called upon Mr. Gilpin, Mr. Ashworth s friend; 
 I was shown into a large and splendid library, and 
 found Mr. Gilpin, who was (but really it is one 
 story, and I can only keep repeating it over and over 
 again) very kind and cordial. He was Attorney 
 General during Van Buren s Presidency. I do 
 believe I shall have as many friends on this side of 
 the Atlantic as I have at home. 
 
 Philadelphia is laid out perfectly square, and the 
 streets contain some very handsome marble build 
 ings; white marble is used in profusion. Not 
 far from the hotel, which is a most perfectly con 
 ducted establishment, there is a pretty square, like 
 ours in London, (called parks in this country), which 
 is overrun with tame squirrels, that will feed out of 
 your hands, and run up your body to get a bit to 
 eat ; I never saw such pretty little creatures. The 
 old State House, in which the Declaration of Inde 
 pendence was signed, still stands in the same street 
 in which the Girard House is situated, Chestnut 
 street. As I told you of Cincinnati, the streets 
 from the river are named after trees, and the cross 
 streets by numbers. To-morrow I begin my proper 
 sight-seeing, under mayoral superintendence. The 
 weather keeps unsettled ; rather cold on Saturday, 
 and yesterday quite a frost. I was amused at your 
 idea that I must rest a week at New York. Please 
 
275 
 
 how am I to get along, if I rest a week at a time ? 
 I have a long journey before me, from here to 
 Charleston : I shall break it at Baltimore, Washing 
 ton, Kichmond, and then there is a long, hard pull 
 to Charleston. I can assure you of one thing, 
 I am getting more and more pleased with America 
 every day. I said in a former letter I might con 
 tradict myself sometimes; let that be so, but a 
 correct opinion is, and must be, a corrected one. 
 At first one s information is limited; gradually 
 extending, fresh facts come to your knowledge, and 
 enable you to correct previous opinions; and so, 
 by a slow, but certain chain of circumstances, you 
 may eliminate opinions that will serve for your own 
 satisfaction, and stand the test of trial. * * * 
 
 GIRARD HOUSE, PHILADELPHIA, 
 
 November 20th, 1857. 
 
 MY DEAR MAMMA, 
 
 AT dinner I was called out by my friend 
 Chadwick to see Mr. Barclay, who had come to the 
 hotel to see me. I found him a kindly looking old 
 gentleman ; he had called to become personally 
 acquainted with me, and to invite me to dine at the 
 
276 
 
 Club Dinner on Tuesday, to meet some dozen who 
 dine together now and then and ask a friend, not 
 unlike our own club, the difference being that the 
 hour is four. At night it rained in torrents, but 
 
 C and his young friend came down to see me 
 
 and have a chat ; they sat till about nine. * * 
 
 On Tuesday morning the Mayor called upon me, 
 and gave me some letters of introduction to the 
 Principals of the Girard College and the High School. 
 I went first to the Girard College, but Professor 
 Allen, the President, was not in, so deferred visiting 
 the Institution until I could meet with him. I 
 went thence to the High School, where the Head 
 Master, Dr. Hart, showed me the working of one 
 of the best collegiate academies I ever saw. I 
 staid till after two o clock, and then walked about 
 the town until time to return to the hotel, and 
 dress for dinner. On entering the hall I met Mr. 
 Gilpin, who had very kindly called and brought a 
 note to leave in case I should be out, asking me to 
 take tea, and spend Wednesday evening at his house, 
 which invitation I most gladly accepted. He also 
 said he would send me some letters to people in the 
 town, who could assist me in seeing the different 
 places in which I felt an interest. I then dressed, 
 and went to the club, where I found Mr. Barclay 
 waiting for me, and going up stairs we entered the 
 dining room, and found I made the twelfth when 
 all had assembled. I was introduced to each one, 
 the English Consul among the number, we sat 
 
277 
 
 down to dinner. We had first, oysters in the shell; 
 but I don t remember whether I have said anything 
 about American oysters: they are an uncommon 
 size, and have a most delicate flavour, I think far 
 superior to ours; then white soup, and a long pause 
 which we occupied with eating celery, and drinking 
 most excellent wine, Madeira and Sherry. Then 
 came four dishes, each containing a pair of real 
 what? canvass back ducks. I cannot describe 
 them; no poet in his highest imaginative flight 
 ever reached so high; delicious creatures, done not 
 to s taste, but to mine ; the gravy just follow 
 ing the knife. I thought what would Sir J 
 
 or Mr. have done, had such a treat been 
 
 theirs ? Well, you did not eat them; there was no 
 occasion for the ordinary human process of masti 
 cation and deglutition, they just melted and 
 disappeared. The four pair left but a few bony 
 relics behind, to show that something had been 
 that was not; another pause, and Mr. Barclay said 
 "some more hot ducks coming," and some three 
 more pair came, just from the fire, and shared the 
 fate of their predecessors. I felt ashamed to eat 
 more, but I said, apologetically, " I never tasted 
 them before," and the whole party looked on me 
 with deep fatherly interest, perhaps longing for so 
 new a sensation, and assured me I might eat till I 
 felt the meat as high as my throat. Still though it 
 seemed to me that the quantity I consumed was 
 large, I was only on about a par with the rest. 
 
278 
 
 The dinner concluded with a dozen woodcocks, one 
 for each, and so they disappeared. No sweets, no 
 pudding, but some good Champagne, and excellent 
 Hock. I can honestly say, I never enjoyed the 
 mere animal gastronomic part of a dinner so much 
 before. The flavour of the canvass back is derived 
 from the wild celery on which they feed at this 
 season, and they are only met with in the Chesa 
 peake Bay. 
 
 They were all cultivated men, and decidedly 
 English in their predilections, and the most Tory or 
 Conservative set I have met on this side. All had, 
 I think, been in England, and liked to talk about 
 the old country and its associations; we smoked 
 our cigars, and about ten I went home, well pleased 
 with my evening, and gratified with the cordial 
 and hospitable manner in which I had been treated. 
 
 On Wednesday, I called on the Mayor; he has 
 not so much time on his hands as my good friend 
 Mr. Rice, having more onerous duties, but gives me 
 as much as he can. I then went to the Board of 
 Controllers of Public Schools, and had a long con 
 versation with the Secretary, and one of the Board. 
 They have sent me a large number of reports and 
 books, as well as some of the various forms for 
 carrying on their school management. 
 
 I then visited the Normal School, for the instruc 
 tion of teachers, with which I was veiy much 
 pleased, and then went to the Refuge for Criminals 
 and Neglected Children. This institution is of a 
 
279 
 
 valuable character, but I do not approve of the 
 arrangement and management; the children are 
 mixed together, and the already vicious have the 
 power to contaminate the others; they work at 
 trades, as in the Boston prisons, and are locked up 
 at night in cells, arranged the same in construc 
 tion as those in our jail. This terminated my 
 day s work. I dined, as usual, at the ladies ordi 
 nary, at four o clock, which is an excellent talk 
 d hote. 
 
 In the evening I went to Mr. Gilpin s, and was 
 introduced to the family, also to a lady whose sister 
 married Colonel Fremont, so well known in con 
 nection with California, and who was a candidate 
 for the Presidency, at the last election, in opposi 
 tion to Mr. Buchanan. Major Wagner, of the 
 United States army, should have been there ; he 
 has been engaged in an interesting experiment for 
 the government, in bringing over camels from the 
 East, and trying, I understand with success, to 
 introduce their use on the prairies; also a Professor 
 Bache, the head of the United States survey 
 department, the President s physician, and many 
 others. I had a deal of talk with Mrs. Fremont s 
 sister, and I am to have a letter to her father ; they 
 are a Virginian family, most bitter against Mrs. 
 Stowe, who, I find, does not occupy any position 
 in American society, and is considered exactly what 
 I judged her to be, a vulgar, vain, strong-minded 
 
280 
 
 The whole of the party consisted of most highly 
 cultivated, refined, and intelligent people, giving 
 me an elevated idea of the best American society, 
 which, in Philadelphia, is always to be met with 
 at Mr. Gilpin s. I was treated with the greatest 
 kindness, and assure you I spent a most delightful 
 evening. Mr. Gilpin is going to give me a letter 
 to the President, and I do think has taken a bit of 
 a fancy to me; to Mr. Ashworth I am indebted for 
 so valuable an introduction. The next day Major 
 Wagner left his card for me, and I found one from 
 Xewhall, who crossed with me ; (Asia again !) 
 
 On Thursday morning I went to see the 
 Mayor, and sat in his office a couple of hours 
 talking politics; he is a regular politician, was 
 secretary of legation in London before he was 
 twenty, was Recorder of Philadelphia seven years, 
 and has been Mayor two ; he is in his forty- sixth 
 year. He made as short work of his business 
 yesterday as he could, as he intended to devote the 
 rest of it to me, and so we went first to the Old 
 Independence Hall, w T here the Declaration was 
 signed, in which there are some relics of those 
 most interesting days; the large bell is there, which 
 tolled out the announcement to the people that the 
 Convention had agreed to the Declaration. Then 
 we proceeded in Mr. Vaux s buggy, which is a light, 
 four-wheeled gig, drawn by two fast- trotting horses, 
 to the Penitentiary, a large jail, on the solitary and 
 separate system, in which the prisoners never can see 
 
281 
 
 each other ; they work in their cells ; and have 
 each a small exercising yard, one to each cell. 
 On Sundays the cell doors are partly opened, per 
 haps six inches, and so fastened, each opening 
 towards the centre, and a minister stands in the 
 gallery and conducts a service, which, I was told, 
 could be heard distinctly by each prisoner. 
 
 As a visitor with the Mayor, who is the President 
 of the Jail Commission, I was permitted to go about 
 as I pleased, and open the cell doors, and ask the 
 prisoners anything I liked. I talked to one who 
 had been ten years there, and had two more to 
 remain, being sentenced for burglary and arson. I 
 dare say I spoke to twenty. I found two darkies 
 in one cell, and I said " what are you boys here 
 for?" at which they grinned and showed their 
 white teeth. " Well, Massa, I spec we re in for 
 manslaughter !" whereupon I left them to their 
 work again. I do not know why the two were 
 together, but I fancy they don t mind the niggers 
 so much, although in the Refuge I could see no 
 difference in their treatment from the white boys, 
 except that they were in a separate building.* I 
 staid as long as I could decently keep the Mayor, 
 perhaps two hours, and came away quite convinced 
 that my views of the Refuge were correct, from the 
 fact that so large a number of its inmates find 
 their way to prison. Of the prisoners only ten per 
 
 * On after enquiry, I find it is done sometimes by order of the Medical 
 Supervisors, but only for medical reasons. 
 
282 
 
 cent, ever return on their hands, which is a satisfac 
 tory result of the system. 
 
 The Mayor then drove me about twelve miles, 
 passing over the Schuylkill river twice; once on a sus 
 pension, and secondly on a railway and road bridge, 
 the railway being the one I had come over from 
 Pittsburg. Returning from the West, we went 
 nearly to the junction of the Schuylkill with the 
 Delaware, and then drove through what Mr.-Vaux 
 called the worst part of the town, where the negroes 
 and Irish live pigging together, which I suppose ac 
 counts for the number of mulatto children. He said 
 he was determined I should see all parts of the town, 
 and not go away with the idea that the aristocratic 
 quarters were all Philadelphia. He told me that the 
 municipal arrangements have been recently altered, 
 and the whole district consolidated, so that the town 
 contains nearly 200 square miles, of course not all 
 built upon. I am going with him again on Sunday, 
 and go to his house ; to-morrow evening I accom 
 pany him to the Whister Party, which is a species 
 of club, meeting at the houses of the members 
 alternately, so called from his great uncle, who was 
 an eminent physician in large practice, and having 
 only Sunday evening at liberty, expected his friends 
 to come to him then ; since his death it has been 
 kept up. It is held at Governor Coles s house on 
 Saturday : he was the first Governor of Illinois, 
 when it was formed into a State. 
 
 I was very much pleased with my ride, and all 
 
283 
 
 the information I obtained. The Mayor is quite 
 independent of the Council, does not sit with them, 
 is elected by the people, and has a veto power on 
 the ordinance of the council, unless there has been 
 a clear majority of two-thirds, then the ordinance 
 is put in force in spite of the veto. At night it 
 began to sleet, and snow, and freeze most keenly, 
 arid to-day has been bitter cold. Newhall called 
 again this morning; "I went with him to their 
 large sugar refinery, and saw the process of purify 
 ing the dark sugar that is brought from Cuba; 
 they use charcoal made from animal bones. I 
 saw all the kinds, white and brown, and the 
 intermediate kinds ; they cast some sugar loaves, 
 to show me, and the mode of drawing off the 
 treacle and golden syrup. In their office he 
 
 introduced me to his father, and a Mr. R , 
 
 from Manchester, who said he knew my father. 
 Newhall then showed me some of the business 
 parts of the town, and will fetch me in the morning 
 for a drive. Afterwards I visited the Girard College, 
 and President Allen took me through the institu 
 tion. It is founded for fatherless boys. The central 
 building is a fine white marble copy of the Made 
 line, and contains the school, and so forth, and 
 in two buildings of white marble on each side are 
 the offices, teachers houses, and boys living rooms. 
 Of course you know it was founded by Stephen 
 Girard, and by his will no minister of any deno 
 mination may ever set foot within its walls, even 
 
284 
 
 as a visitor, so afraid was he of spiritual tyranny 
 and domination. 
 
 After my return from the club last night, whom 
 should I meet at the hotel but my St. Paul friend, 
 
 B. W D , who was delighted to see me. 
 
 He was on his way to New York, but should be 
 at home in Baltimore about Sunday. He will give 
 me some shooting of canvass backs, wild geese and 
 swans, in the Chesapeake. I was considerably amused 
 at the idea. Then I am to see his fast-trottinghorses, 
 and all the rest. He is a strange mortal. 
 
 I think I predicted in one of my letters that the 
 Bank discount would be up to nine or ten per cent., 
 they did not know how bad things really were on 
 this side. The news of the Arabia improved the 
 tone here very much, but as I said, Delhi won t pay 
 American debts ; still things are decidedly on the 
 improvement, and if there be no further bad news 
 from Europe will rapidly progress to a sounder 
 state; such is the expansive power of this country 
 and its unequalled elasticity, it is rich in everything, 
 and has been only too rich in speculation. * * 
 
 SUNDAY. 
 
 FIKST let me say I duly received your letters. I 
 was sure the Cave would interest you very much, 
 but no description is equal to giving a proper idea 
 of its magnitude and wonders. 
 
285 
 
 MONDAY, 23rd. 
 
 IN conversation with Mr. Gilpin the other day, 
 I found that the Professor Bache I met at his house, 
 is a grandson of Benjamin Franklin s; and an 
 
 extremely nice young fellow, living where C 
 
 boards, named Dallas Bache, is a great grandson 
 of the same illustrious man. 
 
 I told Mr. Gilpin I thought I should tire him 
 with so many questions; he said, " Oh dear, no! 
 ask me anything you wish to know. I like to be 
 questioned, and some years ago, a good many now, 
 a friend of mine used to come every morning with 
 a string of questions written down, and catechize 
 me upon them, and that friend was De Tocqueville." 
 Mr. Gilpin speaks exactly like Mr. Newman, is full 
 of information, an excellent classic, and in all 
 respects a most admirable and instructive friend. 
 
 On Saturday evening I went with the Mayor to 
 Governor Coles s, to the Whister party, and met a 
 large number of gentlemen, including the Bishop, 
 the Judges, several Colonels, Professors, and so 
 forth, to most of whom I was introduced, and spent 
 a very agreeable evening. We had a stand-up 
 supper, the rule being that no member must give 
 any dish that requires a knife, to keep them from 
 needless expense and rivalry in their entertain 
 ments. Governor Coles was secretary to Jefferson 
 
286 
 
 at the time of the treaty of Ghent. On Sunday 
 morning the Mayor called for me at the hotel, with 
 his buggy, and drove me at once to see the vicinity 
 of the city. We started at eleven, and went as far 
 as Chestnut Hill, passing by the scenes of some of 
 the battles of the revolution, where we got licked. 
 From Chestnut Hill we had a splendid view over a 
 wide extent of country, terminating in the skirts 
 of the Alleghames, which I crossed coming from 
 the west. The day was lovely, cool, not unlike a 
 bright Christmas-day the night before, it was 
 snowing when we left Governor Coles s, and whilst 
 I am writing now it is warm, and rains fast, so 
 variable is this most extraordinary climate. 
 
 The Mayor showed me many splendid houses by 
 the road side, and beguiled the way with an account 
 of his London adventures. He was Secretary of 
 Legation, under Stevenson, at the time of the 
 Queen s coronation, and was present at the cere 
 mony. We got back at two o clock, to dinner, 
 after a drive of thirty-nine miles. 
 
 After dinner, the Mayor showed me several in 
 teresting relics which had belonged to Penn: his 
 family came over with Penn. * I left between 
 
 seven and eight, and went to Mr. Gilpin s, where I 
 found a good many people calling, as it is under 
 stood they are at home on Sunday evening. I staid 
 till after ten, discussing many things, and then I 
 went to C s. 
 
 This morning, by appointment with Colonel 
 
287 
 
 Snowdon, the Director of the Mint of the United 
 States, which is in Philadelphia, I visited this 
 interesting establishment, and was shown all over 
 it by the Colonel himself; I met him at Governor 
 Coles s. I never saw money coined before ; the 
 whole process was shown me, from casting the 
 ingots to the final counting of the finished coin 
 both gold and silver. Unfortunately I could not 
 bring any of the specimens of this manufacture 
 away with me. 
 
 Afterwards I went to the hotel, and met Mr. 
 Warde, the Curator of the Historical Society, who 
 called on me by appointment. I met him at Mr. 
 Gilpin s. He took me first to the Philosophical 
 Society, where he showed me the original draft of 
 the Declaration of Independence, in the handwriting 
 of Jefferson, with all the erasures and corrections, 
 and the clause about slavery, which was struck out 
 when the full and perfect deed was drawn up. I 
 looked at it with much interest, as it no doubt is the 
 only document of such a nature in the world, not only 
 existing, but that ever did exist, for nations were 
 not originally founded by the drawing up of an 
 unanswerable paper of this kind, which at once 
 produced a powerful people, and a complete con 
 stitution and perfect form of government. Thence 
 we went to the Public Library, where they have 
 four volumes of James the First s letters and 
 papers, relating principally to Irish affairs, all in 
 manuscript, with Jemmy s signature. I thought 
 
288 
 
 how papa would have looked at it, and chuckled 
 inwardly while so doing. 
 
 After this we visited the Historical Society s 
 rooms. They have a portrait of Penn, in armour, 
 and have just had given them by Mr. Granville 
 Penn the original wampum belt which the Indians 
 gave Penn in exchange for the treaty by which 
 Pennsylvania was founded ; it consists of eighteen 
 rows of white beads, with three black beads running 
 obliquely across, and in the centre, in black beads, 
 a figure of an Indian, holding by the hand a stout 
 man, with a broad-brimmed hat, meant, of course, 
 to represent Penn himself; it is a singular piece 
 of work, and really the title of the people to the 
 State of Pennsylvania. They have also Penn s 
 razor and shaving bowl. I scraped my chin with 
 the razor, much to Mr. Warde s amusement. They 
 have a ring with his hair in it, and also another 
 relic of interest, Franklin s reading magnifying 
 glass. 
 
 I then called upon the Mayor at his house, but 
 he was out, so left my card ; also left a note 
 at the club for Mr. Barclay, and then went to 
 say good bye to Mr. Gilpin; he has done every 
 thing possible for me, and just sent some letters to 
 the President, Colonel Bealer, Senator Douglas, 
 and the Judge of the Supreme Court, also to Balti 
 more, New Orleans. He has given me some 
 pamphlets, and some in charge for Mr. Ashworth, 
 Mr. Cobden, and Mr. Bright; two of the pamphlets 
 
289 
 
 I have received, are copies of addresses delivered 
 by Mr. Gilpin on " The American Missionaries in 
 Greece," where he has travelled a good deal, and 
 another on " The Character of Franklin." 
 
 Now have I not been kindly treated, and do you 
 wonder at my liking America ? At first I did not 
 understand the people, but I have had so many 
 opportunities for information, that I have seen reason 
 partly to modify my first impressions, and I feel 
 every day more satisfied with the course I took at 
 the last election. It was painful to oppose a friend, 
 but there are duties in life far higher than mere 
 personal likes and dislikes; and there are great 
 principles, which I felt must be maintained at all 
 hazards, and under all circumstances, and I hope, 
 wherever I see the finger of honest conviction 
 pointing, that I shall never swerve from that course 
 for any considerations whatever. * There is much 
 to find fault with, no doubt, but for the most part the 
 evils result from that reckless spirit which is fostered 
 by a love of adventure and change, and in the eastern 
 cities from the large influx of our own ignorant 
 emigrants. 
 
 I miss Rotherham very much, and should have 
 done so still more had I not met with such kind 
 friends. Tell Lawrence I want him just to come 
 over and straighten my trunks ; their present con 
 dition is not bad, but the ties and stockings are 
 mixed up in most inextricable confusion ; can t tell 
 which is which. 
 
 T 
 
290 
 
 BALTIMORE, 
 
 November 27U, 1857. 
 
 MY DEAR MAMMA, 
 
 ON Tuesday morning, after my packing- 
 up labour, I called on my kind friend, the Mayor, 
 and sat with him as long as I could, thanked 
 him for all his kindness to me, and expressed my 
 hope of seeing him in England. He said he 
 should be glad to see me anywhere; and when 
 we parted he said, " God bless you ! " He is a 
 fine, genuine-hearted fellow; and had I known him 
 twenty years, he could not have treated me better : 
 
 C came to the station to see me off, and I 
 
 really left Philadelphia with much regret. The rail 
 way is interrupted at one point in passing the river 
 Susquehanna. We left the cars, and went over on 
 a very curious steam-boat, on the top deck of 
 which were two or three lines of rails, for the mail 
 and baggage wagons, which are thus taken over 
 without being unpacked : afterwards we skirted 
 the Chesapeake Bay, and arrived about five at 
 Baltimore, ninety-nine miles in four hours. I 
 drove direct to Barnum s. After tea, who should I 
 
 meet but H - P- - and W. J. H , just 
 
 arrived from Washington : they have been much 
 
291 
 
 the same route, including St. Paul s. I noticed a 
 person walking backwards and forwards for some 
 
 time after H and P left me. He came to 
 
 me, and said, " I think you are Mr. Nicholls, of 
 Manchester." I looked at him, and found it was 
 Blakeway, a friend of mine, Sebastian Bazley s, and 
 George Ashworth s ; he had just corne from South 
 America. I had not seen him for four years ; a most 
 extraordinary meeting. (Am I not an extraordinary 
 person for meeting friends everywhere ?) Well, we 
 talked till late, and I happened to say, " I have 
 some introductions in Baltimore," and showed him 
 my letters. He was very glad to find I had one to 
 Mr. Latrobe (it was from Mr. Gilpin) ; he knew 
 the family most intimately. Mr. Latrobe is an 
 eminent lawyer here, and is at present in Europe. 
 
 On Wednesday morning we called on Ferdinand 
 Latrobe, and I found him one of the finest 
 young men I ever met. He said at once, " You 
 must come out to our country house this evening, 
 and spend it with us." We then called on his 
 brother Osrnan, who repeated the invitation, and 
 fixed for us to dine with him, at half-past two, and 
 go with them to Fairy Knowe. Whilst talking, Mrs. 
 Latrobe came, and kindly seconded her son s invi 
 tation, and invited us to spend Saturday and 
 Sunday with them, which we were glad to do. She 
 then said good bye, but returned in a few minutes 
 to say that her friend, who was in the carriage at 
 the door, wished us to dine at her house the day 
 
292 
 
 following, being Thanksgiving Day, the one great 
 family holiday in America, which invitation we also 
 accepted. At half-past two we met again ; and, 
 after dining on canvass-back ducks, we took the 
 train, and went out to Fairy Knowe, which is a 
 handsome country house, situated, as its name 
 imports, on an elevation, overlooking a fine extent 
 of country. * * The night was intensely 
 
 cold ; but good fires in all parts of the house, kept 
 us warm ; a dry still cold we never feel in 
 England, but which makes all metal- work stick to 
 your hand as though it were red hot; bright 
 moon and glittering stars ; no wind> and the tern- 
 perature near zero ! 
 
 Next day, about noon, we returned to Baltimore, 
 and walked about the town, which they were 
 anxious to show me. Baltimore is not so hand 
 some as Philadelphia, but contains some splendid 
 houses, particularly about Monument Square, in 
 the centre of which is a handsome white marble 
 column, with a statue of Washington on the top. 
 We then dressed, and went to dine at Mr. Winan s. 
 On Thanksgiving Day people expect their friends 
 to visit them almost uninvited. 
 
 We staid till after midnight, and arranged to call 
 to-day to see the studio, in which Mr. Winan takes 
 great delight, being himself an excellent artist. 
 Mrs. Latrobe has been very kind to me, and is 
 giving me a letter to her brother, who is a large 
 planter, on the Mississippi. She told me frankly 
 
293 
 
 she knew only of one difficulty in my going there, 
 and that was to get away again. The more South 
 I go, the kinder and more hospitable people are. 
 They are anxious that I should become acquainted 
 with the Baltimore families, in order that I may 
 see Mrs. Stowe is not a real specimen of American 
 ladies. They quite hate her name, and declare 
 her statements are untrue ; she has never even 
 been in a slave state. Mr. Latrobe is President of 
 the Liberian Emigration Society. I told Ferdi 
 nand of my meeting the returned darkies in the 
 stage, and how well they were doing there, which 
 he was glad to hear. So far from taking offence 
 at any discussion on the slavery question they 
 introduce it themselves, admit its evils, but do not 
 see how any one can point out, at present, the 
 proper remedy. 
 
 I have just received a letter from Rotherham, 
 who sailed on Wednesday. I was sorry to part 
 with the lad, for he has a most affectionate dispo 
 sition, and was excellent company for me, when I 
 should have been very lonely in that western 
 country. There is only one part of my letter to 
 the " Guardian " I wish I could alter, and that is 
 to express more strongly the good feeling of 
 Americans for everything English, and their kind 
 ness to Englishmen. I could never have antici 
 pated such kindness from perfect strangers. 
 
294 
 
 SATURDAY. 
 
 JUST received your letter. I did hope the Africa 
 would have beaten the Vanderbilt, but her news 
 was telegraphed from Cape Kace, and so antici 
 pated the Africa s. Mr. Gourdin has no need to 
 fear my not liking both American fair and fare 
 good Mr. Bazley s joke. You must remember me 
 to him, and say I had a good laugh at both the 
 jokes, and rather expect I shall have to knock 
 under to his puns when I get home again. 
 
 Congress meets on Monday next, the 7th of 
 December, and I expect to be in Washington this 
 time next week. 
 
 BALTIMORE, 
 
 December 2nd, 1857. 
 
 MY DEAR MAMMA, 
 
 I BELIEVE it was last Friday that I com 
 pleted and despatched a letter, but the days pass 
 away so rapidly that I can hardly keep them in 
 mind, for I am going through a perfect round of 
 hospitality of every kind. A few weeks ago I felt 
 much regret that Congress did not meet till the 
 first Monday in the month, which left me a week 
 
295 
 
 that I thought I should have some difficulty in fil 
 ling up. Instead of that being the case, I find the 
 period only comes too soon, as I might stay here a 
 month, and have more invitations than I should 
 know what to do with. 
 
 On Saturday afternoon we went to Fairy Knowe, 
 and remained until Monday morning. Saturday 
 evening was spent very pleasantly; there was a 
 large party staying in the house, and after supper 
 the slave lad brought in his banjo, and played some 
 plaintive negro songs. 
 
 Sunday was a magnificent day, as bright as the 
 finest summer weather, without its heat. We took 
 a walk, and then went to their private gas works 
 for the house, which is lighted all through with gas 
 made on the premises. In the evening we had a 
 stroll, by the light of a splendid moon, through the 
 grounds, as they wanted me to see a good view of the 
 Eailway Viaduct, by the quiet light of the moon. 
 We returned to Baltimore on Monday morning. 
 
 WASHINGTON, FEIDAY EVENING. 
 
 I WROTE so far at Baltimore, but having a quiet 
 evening, I wish to spend it in the way most agree 
 able to myself, that is, chatting with you. 
 
On Saturday, I gave Ferdinand one of the copies 
 of my letter to the " Guardian " that you sent me. 
 He considered it to be a perfectly correct account 
 of the causes that have induced so much disaster 
 in the States, and he was also gratified with the 
 remarks at the end, relative to the feelings between 
 the two countries, and the expression I had given 
 to them, as an Englishman. On Monday morning 
 
 I called at a Mr. Webster s office, who is Mr. E 
 
 D s lawyer, and there I found the gentleman 
 
 himself, whom I at once recognised by his likeness 
 to Mr. Denison, whom he resembles somewhat in 
 appearance, but most particularly so in the tone of 
 his voice and laugh. He was very glad to see me ; 
 we went to his club, which I had an invitation to 
 
 use as long as I remained in town. Mr. R 
 
 D said candidly he did nothing, lived quietly 
 
 some miles from Baltimore, and never liked the 
 idea of work in his life. He asked me to go out 
 with him that evening or the next; but on the 
 Tuesday I was already engaged, and it so happened 
 there was an invitation from a committee of a new 
 club, just established, to the members of the old 
 and their friends, to take supper at the house- 
 warming of the new establishment that evening. 
 I saw by the twinkle of his eyes he wanted to go, 
 and he asked me if I should like it ? I told him I 
 should, and that as I considered him as an old 
 friend, I should also like my friend Blakeway to go 
 with me. He jumped at it at once, and as we 
 
297 
 
 took a walk together, we met Blakeway ; I intro 
 duced them, and the matter was immediately 
 arranged. I had seen, at Mr. Webster s office, a 
 
 Mr. Birkhead, who married a cousin of Mr. R 
 
 D . Wehadpromised to take tea with him before 
 
 going to the club, so in the evening we went to Mr. 
 Birkhead s, who was also a friend of Blakcway s. 
 
 About nine we went to the club, where I was 
 introduced to more people than I can remember, 
 but still they all remembered me. We had an 
 excellent supper, and made acquaintance for the 
 first time with terrapins small land turtle, most 
 delicious eating a kind of cross between turtle 
 soup and turtle fins. We had apple toddy, unli 
 mited whiskey punch) and cigars. A Mr. Smith 
 talked to me a long time ; he had been over to 
 England, had gone with endless prejudices about 
 the country and people ; was perfectly astonished 
 to find all his pre- conceived notions false ; was 
 treated with the greatest kindness, and makes it a 
 point to show his appreciation of England by 
 paying every attention to the English he meets in 
 America. We thought to leave about eleven, but 
 
 found Mr. D in a lower room (we had supper 
 
 up stairs), and in company with some twenty men, 
 to whom I was formally introduced, drinking toddy, 
 and getting decidedly drunk (I shirked the drink, 
 and enjoyed the scene). They sang and joked, and 
 when they ah 1 got to putting their hats on the floor, 
 and sitting down upon them, between one and 
 
298 
 
 two, we thought it about time to disappear. They 
 had locked the doors to keep us there, but we 
 slipped down some stairs into the kitchen, and up 
 some others into the area, and so got out. We 
 
 thought Mr. D would have gone away then, 
 
 but, no thank you, he returned to the revels within. 
 It was a wet night ; we got home much amused 
 with the variety we had seen there. I cannot say that 
 there is much to see in Baltimore, but I had every 
 opportunity of seeing their social life, of which I 
 was very glad. I generally spend two or three 
 hours every day with Ferdinand Latrobe, who is an 
 extremely intelligent fellow. 
 
 On Tuesday evening we dined at Mr. Thomas s, 
 a cousin of Blakeway s. Osman Latrobe drove 
 out home, but Ferdinand came with us, and staid 
 at the hotel. Mrs. Latrobe asked me to spend one 
 more evening at Fairy Knowe ; it was to have been 
 
 Wednesday, but as we were dining with , and 
 
 Mrs. Winan had invited us to come to a small 
 dance at her house in the evening, we fixed Thurs 
 day night, my last in Baltimore. 
 
 On Wednesday, Mr. D and I had a long 
 
 walk about the town ; he is quite a middle-aged 
 beau, an old bachelor. We made some calls on 
 friends of his, and as he has a large acquaintance, 
 my introductions were pretty numerous. In the 
 
 evening we dined at Mr. s, and had a pleasant 
 
 party, some ten ladies and gentlemen, the former all 
 great talkers, one a rich young widow on whom I 
 
299 
 
 think Mr. D cast tender glances, a Mrs. , 
 
 with 150,000 dollars. After dinner they were all 
 going to a concert. Blakeway and I went to Mrs. 
 Winan s, where we found a small party dancing, 
 so ending the day very pleasantly. 
 
 On Thursday afternoon, after packing up, always 
 a sad bore, I went out by the cars to Fairy Knowe, 
 and spent a most agreeable evening ; some of the 
 young ladies came out also, a coloured fiddler was 
 found, and some little dancing varied our amuse 
 ments. The days were splendid, the nights lovely, 
 the moon clear and bright, and as I went to bed 
 last night, I opened the casement and looked out 
 over the wooded hills, and the dancing waters of 
 the river Patapsco, above which the house almost 
 hangs, and thought how the same clear light had a 
 few hours before shone on my own dear home. 
 This weather is the Indian summer. 
 
 They were all sorry to part with me this morn 
 ing, but I have promised on my way home, to go 
 straight to their house, and stay two or three days 
 with them. Now, my dear Mamma, can you wonder 
 if I left Baltimore with real regret? I told them I 
 felt as if I had known them twenty years. 
 
 I left at half-past ten for Washington, and I 
 could not help casting a lingering look at Fairy 
 Knowe, as our train passed it. I arrived soon 
 after five, and found the hotel crammed. I 
 had written for a room, and so got one, but pretty 
 high up in the world. The place is crowded with 
 
300 
 
 people attracted by Congress. I can hear them 
 on all sides, discussing the merits of the various 
 candidates for the innumerable offices connected 
 with the Chambers. I forgot to say that there is a 
 Mr. Buonaparte, son of Jerome, residing at Balti 
 more, married to Miss Patterson. He was away 
 from home, so I did not meet him ; but 1 was told 
 his facial likeness to the First Napoleon was won 
 derful. He leads a very quiet life. It must seem 
 strange to you when you read this letter, to see 
 names of persons you never heard of in this world 
 before, mentioned so familiarly by me; but as they 
 interest me, I know they will you. 
 
 SUNDAY. 
 
 A WET, miserable, soaking day, in the house all 
 the time. 
 
 Yesterday morning, I went out to find and 
 present my letter to Lord Napier, and on leaving 
 the hotel found myself in a vast wide street, called 
 Pennsylvania Avenue, which comes from the 
 Capitol to the Treasury, almost straight, and then 
 turns round and passes the White House, the resi 
 dence of the President. The houses are poor on 
 each side, and the immense width of the street 
 makes them appear still shabbier. Washington is 
 called the " City of Magnificent Distances," which 
 
301 
 
 fact is strongly impressed upon you in walking 
 about, for the distances are indeed immense. The 
 Treasury is a splendid marble edifice, with a row 
 of imposing columns in front. The President s 
 house is also marble. 
 
 I found Lord Napier s house in H. Street, a 
 large, but not particularly handsome-looking place. 
 Several people were calling, and the servant said 
 his Lordship could not see any one but diplomatic 
 people that day. However, I gave him the letter, 
 and my card, and said it was a letter of introduc 
 tion from Lord Stanley, so he showed me into a 
 small waiting room, and said his Excellency would 
 be with me immediately. Lord Napier then came 
 in ; he is a very good-looking man, most courteous 
 in his behaviour. We had a longish chat. I told 
 him I had been interested in the educational insti 
 tutions, about which he asked me a good deal, and 
 said he and Lady Napier were disengaged that 
 evening, and were dining quite alone, and he 
 should be glad, if I had no engagement, if I would 
 dine with them, which invitation I accepted. I 
 told his Lordship I had letters to the President, 
 but did not know the most proper manner of pre 
 senting them. He laughed, and said they were 
 so very unceremonious about it here that he hardly 
 knew himself, but would write to the President s 
 Private Secretary, and enquire; but told me in 
 the meantime to leave my letters and card at the 
 White House ; so on my way back I called there, 
 
302 
 
 where I found a great many people going in, to see 
 the President, and gave my letters and card to the 
 servant, or gentleman, at the door, as he would 
 expect to be called. He told me to go right up, 
 but I declined for the present. I then walked 
 through the Patent Office ; I mean to go thoroughly 
 through it, and will say then what it is. Thence 
 to the Capitol, which is really a magnificent build 
 ing of white marble, but still unfinished ; they are 
 erecting an immense dome on the top. I went 
 into the Chambers of Kepresentatives and Senators, 
 which are quite handsome rooms. They are pre 
 paring a new room for the meeting of Eepresenta- 
 tives, which is gaudy, ugly, and in bad taste, quite 
 unworthy of the building it is in. 
 
 In looking over the register of names at the 
 hotel, I found that the Hon. Mr. Miles, Senator for 
 South Carolina, was there, so sent my letters 
 and card up to him. Soon after, Blakeway came, 
 I had succeeded in keeping him a room. I then 
 dressed and called on Mr. Miles, whom I found a 
 youngish, most agreeable, and gentlemanly man. 
 
 I then set off to the British Embassy. I should 
 have said, as I left in the morning, Lord Napier 
 introduced me to Lady Napier. 
 
 The only guests at dinner were a Mr. Manly and 
 myself. Lady Napier is a very pleasant person, 
 not absolutely handsome, but good features. She 
 gave me a great deal of information respecting the 
 social manner of life amongst the American ladies. 
 
303 
 
 Lord Napier told me they always received on a 
 Tuesday evening, and should be glad to see me. 
 
 I left about a quarter to ten, having spent a very 
 pleasant evening; Blakeway was waiting for me, 
 and we had a chat and a cigar before going 
 to bed. I am quite well now, so you need not be 
 anxious ; shall decide about my trip to the Ha- 
 vanna at Charleston, taking advice there upon the 
 subject. If I don t go to Cuba, I shall always 
 regret it, since I shall never retrace my steps in 
 this country again, in all human probability. 
 
 By the bye, I forgot to tell you that by Western and 
 Kentucky law I am a Colonel, because I have killed 
 a rattlesnake. I had written so far when Mr. Miles 
 came into my room, as we had agreed to dine toge 
 ther; he asked me to call with him on one of 
 his colleagues, Colonel Orr, who is to be Speaker 
 of the House, it having been agreed upon at a 
 democratic caucus held on Saturday evening, at 
 which 114 members were present, so that it may 
 be considered decided upon. 
 
 In Colonel Orr s room I was introduced to 
 General Bonhem, another South Carolinian, and 
 the successor of the Mr. Brooks who assaulted 
 Sumner, and several others. I intend to go to the 
 House this morning, but I do not suppose much of 
 interest will be going on, as no real business is 
 done till after January. There is no Directory 
 published, so that I have great difficulty in finding 
 out the people my letters are directed to. * * * 
 
304 
 
 WASHINGTON, 
 
 December 11 th, 1857. 
 
 MY DEAK MAMMA, 
 
 MY time has been so much occupied 
 whilst in the American capital, that I have not 
 really been able to sit down and write a line in 
 advance, and as the steamer sails next from 
 Boston, I am anxious not to miss a post, lest you 
 should be at all uneasy on my account. I expect 
 to have time at Richmond to write up all my 
 Washington experiences, which I cannot do to 
 night ; it is now near nine, and I start at five in 
 the morning for Eichmond. I have been dining 
 with the Speaker, and a number of members 
 of Congress. I told you in my last that Colonel 
 Orr was to be Speaker, and he was duly elected on 
 Monday, and I was present in the House at the 
 time. I sent Papa a copy of the President s Mess 
 age, so that he might read the financial statement 
 for himself, in full. 
 
 Mr. Miles has just been with some letters for 
 me ; he is a very fine fellow, and has been a very 
 kind friend to me. The weather has been most 
 charming all the week ; a heavy storm on Wednes 
 day night, but quite late in the night only; not 
 cold nor hot since the storm. Last Monday was 
 
305 
 
 most oppressive, like an August day in England. 
 The sky is clear and bright, with an Italian look 
 and effect, so that I really believe we have now the 
 true Indian summer, though late. The nights are 
 frosty, and the air pure, clear, and bracing. I 
 feel its effects immediately, and never felt better 
 in my whole life. 
 
 I have not presented all my letters here. I had 
 not time to do so, and saw no especial advantage 
 in it after I knew sufficient people to get along with 
 comfortably, which you will trust me for doing, I 
 know. I shall not apologise for so short a note, as 
 you know the reason of its being so ; and ijou have 
 told me not to write too much. 
 
 BALLARD S HOTEL, RICHMOND, VIRGINIA, 
 
 December l%th, 1857. 
 
 My DEAR MAMMA, 
 
 INSTEAD of the dreadfully shabby letter 
 I sent you last, I must now endeavour to give you 
 some proper account of my doings in Washington, 
 and first, before stating what I did, I will tell you 
 whom I have met. First stands Mr. Miles, a per 
 fect Carolinian gentleman, a man of first-rate 
 w 
 
306 
 
 education; was Professor of Mathematics in the 
 University of South Carolina, and invited to be its 
 President, but declined the office; was then elected 
 Mayor of Charleston ; and now makes his first 
 appearance in Congress. He introduced me to 
 his five colleagues Colonel Orr, the new Speaker; 
 General Bonham, Colonel Keitt, General M Queen, 
 and one more, whose name I have forgotten, as I 
 only saw him once; also Mr. Edmondson, of Vir 
 ginia; Mr. Russell, of New York, and several others; 
 in all some twenty Representatives of his own and 
 other States, of the present or thirty-fifth Congress. 
 On Monday, Blakeway and I breakfasted with 
 Miles, and then went down to the House of Repre 
 sentatives. Great crowds were streaming down 
 Pennsylvania!! Avenue on their way to the Capitol ; 
 we found the best places in the galleries all 
 filled, and not liking the heat and steam, we went 
 down to the entrance of the House itself, and as 
 the session was not declared then open, we got in, 
 and remained in a kind of carpeted lobby, running 
 round the chamber immediately behind the seats 
 of the members. This part was also full of people, 
 both members and others ; and, in fact, the whole 
 room was a living, chattering mass of persons. 
 Precisely at twelve, noon, the Clerk of the House, 
 the one, that is, who held the post last session, 
 rose at the desk, and said, "It is now twelve o clock, 
 and according to the rules, the House of Repre 
 sentatives will come to order immediately." A 
 
3or 
 
 great commotion took place, the crowd separated, 
 the members remained within the legislative enclo 
 sure, and those who had no right there withdrew. 
 Each member then took his seat, having an arm 
 chair to sit in, and a desk in front, furnished with 
 lock-up drawer, inkstand, &c., and to each two 
 seats, the invariable spittoon. The outside gallery 
 was now crammed, we had found a sofa in one 
 recess, and sat quietly down, an official proceeded 
 to clear away all strangers. Well, I thought and 
 said, " Sit still, keep quiet, look as if we had busi 
 ness, and they will take us for members of the 
 diplomatic corps." They looked at us, but never 
 spoke a word ; and we thus, by sheer impudence, 
 and perhaps being recognised as strangers, managed 
 to remain. The Clerk then began to read the list 
 of members by States, and each one present 
 answered to the roll call ; out of 234 members, 
 not more than a dozen were then absent. After 
 the reading was over, which occupied more than 
 an hour, he again read over the names of all that 
 had replied, so as to make any requisite correc 
 tions ; and when all was completed to his satis 
 faction, he said, " The House will now come to 
 order, and elect a Speaker to preside over the 
 present Thirty-fifth Congress of the United States 
 of America." Some one then rose and proposed 
 Colonel Orr, of South Carolina. I think it was Mr. 
 Banks, who, I told you, was elected Governor of 
 Massachusetts, when I was in Boston, and was 
 
308 
 
 himself the last Speaker, who got up and proposed 
 some one else. The Clerk then demanded how 
 the House would vote, and according to its deci 
 sion, the names of all the members were again 
 read over, and each called out the name for which 
 he desired to record his vote. When this was 
 completed, the names voting for each candidate 
 were read over again, and then I found the expla 
 nation of some sounds I had heard, but could not 
 catch their meaning where I sat, as it appeared 
 there were some five candidates, of whom one 
 received only one vote. Colonel Orr was then 
 declared duly elected Speaker, by a considerable 
 majority, and was conducted to his seat by the 
 former Speaker, and the oldest member of the 
 House. He sat down, and immediately a silver- 
 mounted staff, with a globe, and eagle with out 
 stretched wings, also in silver, was placed upright 
 in a socket by the chair, acting, I presume, as the 
 mace in our House. The Speaker then rose, and 
 in a few appropriate sentences, expressed his gra 
 titude for the great honour the House had done 
 him, and his intention to act with the strictest 
 impartiality ; so to conduct the proceedings, that 
 they might redound to the honour and prosperity 
 of their great country. The oldest member then 
 swore him in, and he, calling the House to order, 
 .proceeded to swear in the members by States. 
 This was a long affair, and took up the rest of the 
 day, as the House seldom sits later than three or 
 
309 
 
 half-past. We then looked into the Senate 
 Chamber, but here could only get into the gallery. 
 There is very little difference in the appearance of 
 the two rooms ; but the members of that body are 
 older, and perhaps more sedate-looking persons. 
 They were busy electing their various paid officers, 
 and their proceedings had no interest for us. We 
 then returned to the hotel ; after dinner I went 
 into Mr. Miles s room, and had a talk over the 
 day s proceedings and various subjects of interest 
 to me, not without the solace of a quiet cigar ; he 
 has some excellent ones, won in a bet from Robert 
 G our din. 
 
 The election of Colonel Orr is a triumph for 
 the Democratic party. Last session they were 
 eight weeks before they chose a Speaker, and bal- 
 lotted some hundred times. Now what is the 
 Democratic party, you will ask ? It is the party of 
 conservatism and State rights, as opposed to the 
 Republican, who aim at a greater centralization of 
 government at Washington, and to obtain a control 
 over the actions of the State Legislatures. 
 
 For myself, I candidly confess, that before I 
 came to the States, I had no definite idea how com 
 pletely the separate States are sovereign in their 
 own territories, and how little, really, is the influ 
 ence of Congress. Each State has its own House 
 of Representatives, its own Governor and officers, 
 elected immediately by the vote of the people, its 
 own magistrates, judges, and supreme courts of 
 
310 
 
 appeal. It forms its own constitution, makes and 
 administers its own laws, levies and expends its 
 own taxes, but that constitution, and those laws, 
 must be in accordance with the constitution of the 
 United States, as denned by the Act forming the 
 Federal Government, founded on the Declaration 
 of Independence. This is the only tie they have, 
 and as the original constitution provides that only 
 white people can be citizens, or are citizens in its 
 eye, and also recognises the institution of slavery, 
 each State can, if it so please, decree, by the voice of 
 a majority, that slavery shall or shall not exist. 
 This is the great doctrine upheld by the Demo 
 crats, that each State shall decide on all its 
 domestic institutions for itself and itself alone. 
 
 The Republicans say we will grant all that, except 
 slavery, and will not allow its extension to new 
 States, about to be admitted into Union as States, 
 and sending representatives to Congress. 
 
 The Ultra- Republicans or Black- Republicans, as 
 they are called, go the whole ticket for the aboli 
 tion of slavery altogether. There is a third, but a 
 falling party, that of the Americans or Know- 
 nothings, whose doctrine is, that only Americans 
 shall govern America, and that no foreign-born 
 citizen shall hold any office. This strikes a blow 
 at the large infusion of Irish and German element 
 in the Government. Some modify it, and demand 
 twenty-one years residence before full citizenship 
 can be obtained. They hate the Irish and all 
 
311 
 
 Catholics. Their doctrine in its extreme, is 
 wrong ; for after all each State can decide for 
 itself, what shall be the nature and claims for the 
 exercise of the suffrage, and a share in the govern 
 ment ; but it is not altogether wrong, for in many 
 places, especially New York, men land from 
 emigrant ships and vote almost immediately, which 
 is the great cause why New York is such a 
 "rowdy," badly- governed city. They ought to 
 reside at least five or seven years before voting, so 
 as to know something about the country and the 
 
 people. I told , who is an American, that if 
 
 I was a citizen, I should embrace Democratic 
 Americanism. Their party has done good, it has 
 ventilated the question and shown its importance ; 
 but it is powerless to carry out any extended mea 
 sure. The South is, to a man, Democratic, of 
 course, on account of the doctrine of States rights, 
 and without which they could not maintain slavery 
 for a day ; if I may use the expression, they are 
 Aristocratic Democrats; in fact, I told Miles he 
 was far more an Aristocrat than myself. He wished 
 to persuade me I was not a Eadical, but that 
 would not go down. 
 
 The duty of Congress is to make all laws having 
 reference to the States, as a whole; the foreign 
 relations, the army, navy, the regulations of cus 
 toms, general post-office, Indian and territorial 
 affairs, to decide on the admission of New States, 
 and all questions of a Federal, as distinguished 
 
312 
 
 from a State character. The duties levied at the 
 post constitute the revenue, which the Federal 
 Government expend for Federal purposes ; each 
 member of Congress is paid 3.000 dollars per 
 annum and mileage ; formerly their pay was so 
 much per diem, hut they dragged out the session 
 so long, that the present system has been adopted. 
 
 The great bore of members is the patronage. 
 They are followed by a crowd of hungry aspirants 
 for some office or other ; and Miles told me it was 
 even then, so early, a decided nuisance. I saw one 
 impudent chap with him that didn t want a small, 
 mean office, but some attacheship ! and he told me 
 of one poor, humble being, that perfectly haunted 
 him. When he came down in the morning, he met 
 him on the stairs, and he meekly bowed, and looked 
 piteous and plaintive like, but never spoke : if he 
 looked up from reading a newspaper, he was humbly 
 bowing at his elbow : at the Capitol, wherever his 
 eye fell, it lighted on this poor but persistent 
 beggar; and he said, i; I shall really try and do 
 something for him, if I can, if only to get rid of 
 such meek importunity." It is perfectly astounding 
 to see the numbers that congregate about the 
 members on all sides, to beg some favour from 
 them. 
 
 On Tuesday, I essayed a visit to the White 
 House, to call upon President Buchanan. I had 
 on Saturday left my letters of introduction, and the 
 door-keeper told me to step into the rooms. I went 
 
318 
 
 into a large, handsome apartment, furnished with 
 chairs and sofas, covered with silk damask ; mirrors 
 on the walls ; several people sitting down, some 
 with their hats on. Out of that, a handsome room 
 opened, and a suite of smaller rooms : from the 
 window there was a fine view of the Potomac. 
 Whilst waiting in the large room, one free and 
 independent citizen pulled off his hat, took out his 
 pocket-comb, and combed his hair : when he had 
 finished, he looked at the points, and then carefully 
 wiped them on the silk sofa- cover, and returned the 
 animal killer to his pocket ! I thought I should 
 have burst out laughing. After sitting till I got 
 tired, a man came and said we had better go up 
 stairs. So, thinks I, he doesn t receive here, after 
 all ; I had expected him to come into the room. 
 Up stairs we went, and all sat some time in a small, 
 rather shabby-looking room, and then his attendant 
 or messenger, said, "Any gentleman wishing to see 
 the President, can come in." I marched out first, 
 crossed a small library, and entered the Presi 
 dent s writing and business room. At a desk, 
 writing, sat a white-headed old man, who imme 
 diately rose. I told him my name, and that I had 
 sent him some letters, naming from whom. He 
 shook hands with me, and said he was very glad to 
 see me. He then went round, and did and said 
 the same to all the rest. He wore a white tie, an 
 old-fashioned coat, with broad laps, out of the 
 pocket of which stuck a silk handkerchief, and he 
 
314 
 
 had on an old pair of carpet slippers ; still he is a 
 fine, dignified, yet simple-looking old man, and put 
 me somehow in mind of my dear old grandfather ! 
 He then came back to me, and asked me how long 
 I had been in the States, when I left England, and 
 so forth ; and then, which way was I going ? I told 
 him to the South. He said, " I am very glad to 
 hear it," and then raising his voice, continued, " I 
 wish more of your countrymen would come and do 
 so, and observe that particular institution of the 
 South they so little understand, for themselves ; 
 this would disabuse their minds of the impression 
 that Uncle Tom s Cabin is a correct, or even any 
 picture of slavery." I was taken aback at such an 
 unexpected outburst from the President. I replied 
 that I should certainly avail myself of every possible 
 opportunity of making my own observations, and 
 forming my own independent judgment, but said 
 nothing more than that. He then expressed a 
 hope to see me again some evening, and introduce 
 me to his family, put out his hand, and so our 
 interview ended. I did not, however, avail myself 
 of the invitation ; for, in the first place, I did not 
 know when to go, and I don t think I cared much 
 about going again. That was my visit to the White 
 House. Still, I have done all I cared for. 
 
 I called afterwards on Colonel Benton, an old 
 Senator, who has been long engaged in writing a 
 history of the Senate ; and when nearly completed, 
 his house, in that part containing his books and 
 
315 
 
 papers, was burnt to the ground. I had a longish 
 
 chat with him. He is the father of Mrs. , I 
 
 met at Mr. Gilpin s, and of Mrs. Colonel Fremont. 
 I expressed my regret at the loss he had had. He 
 said, " For a long time after he could do nothing, 
 but sat for hours at a time, unable to collect a thought 
 or express an idea ; but he had endeavoured and 
 mastered himself." I thought it, and I did not 
 hesitate to tell him so, the finest instance of per 
 severance and application, under overwhelming 
 difficulty and trouble. I had ever known or heard 
 of. He is a very fine old man, but quite absorbed 
 in his work, and I could see, that whilst talking 
 even, his mind was busy with other things. 
 
 We all dined together again : Miles, Blakeway, 
 and myself, went to the Speaker s room, and sat 
 some time with him ; afterwards we went down 
 stairs, and I met the St. Paul s Indian trader, Ebury, 
 who danced the Medicine Dance for us. He intro 
 duced me to Mr. Kingsbury, the delegate from Min 
 nesota, which is not yet a State, only a territory, 
 but will be admitted soon. The delegates only vote 
 in Congress on questions relating to their own 
 territories, and not on Federal questions. 
 
 On Wednesday morning, Blakeway returned to 
 Baltimore ; we were mutually sorry to part ; he is a 
 good fellow, and circumstances have made me 
 much indebted to him. 
 
 I went down to the Senate that day, but found 
 the galleries fearfully hot, so having a letter to 
 
316 
 
 Senator Douglas, I asked the doorkeeper if he 
 were in : he said " Yes," and took the letter and 
 my card. Mr. Douglas came out immediately, 
 expressed his pleasure at seeing me, but said he was 
 very busy just then, but would I like to come into 
 the body of the House? exactly what I wanted. 
 I thanked him, and said how much I should be 
 obliged, he passed me in and went to his seat, 
 and I stood by the side of an old gentleman I 
 thought I knew. I said to him, have I not the 
 pleasure of seeing General Watson Webb, of New 
 York? I was introduced to him by a letter from 
 Mr. Stell. He immediately remembered me, and 
 was very glad to see me. Having already, whilst 
 talking, looked round the House, I fixed in my mind 
 on one person, and I said, " Is Senator Sumner 
 in the House ?" " There he sits, quite close to us," 
 Webb said, " That is Burlingame talking to him; he 
 was the member that challenged Brook, for assaulting 
 him." " Oh ! " I said, "I have a letter of introduc 
 tion to him in my portmanteau." Webb called 
 Burlingame, and introduced me, and he then intro 
 duced me to Sumner. I said my father had had the 
 pleasure of meeting him in Manchester. We had a 
 little talk. He is a large man, and put me in mind 
 of Mr. Dombey. Just then Douglas got the floor, 
 and began to speak on the Kansas question, explain 
 ing in a speech of great power, but sophistical, his 
 opposition to the President s message. Touching 
 that point, as he is the most powerful debater in 
 
317 
 
 the Chamber, I was glad to hear him : he spoke 
 for more than an hour, accounting for the fact of 
 his being busy, and made me feel all the more 
 obliged to him for his kindness in coming out to 
 me at such a moment. At the conclusion of his 
 speech, the people in the crowded galleries cheered 
 and clapped their hands, whereupon Senator 
 Mason moved that the House be cleared of all 
 strangers ; and read them a merited lecture on the 
 impropriety of their conduct. Several others ex 
 pressed most strongly their disapproval, but begged 
 him to withdraw his motion, as it arose from igno 
 rance on their part. He consented at last, and so 
 they remained. Nothing much of interest followed 
 Senator Douglas s speech, so I paid a visit to the 
 Supreme Court of the United States, also situated 
 in the Capitol, where I saw some eight respectable, 
 staid-looking old judges, in black gowns, presiding 
 over the quietest court I ever saw in my life. 
 
 I then looked into the Lower House, where the 
 members were balloting for their seats, taking 
 choice by rotation, as their names were drawn out 
 of a box. Miles and I then walked back to the 
 hotel, and dined with some half-dozen new mem 
 bers. Afterwards I got into conversation with a 
 young officer of the United States Army, named 
 Putnam, descended from the Revolutionary family, 
 a general of which distinguished himself greatly in 
 the Indian fights; and there is a celebrated leap 
 he made to escape from them when almost made 
 
318 
 
 captive. Putnam wanted to arrange and go with 
 me to Mount Vernon, but was under orders for the 
 West, and left the next day. 
 
 On Thursday, after breakfast, I went down to 
 the House. I wanted to go in, but could not 
 get; I sent my card therefore to Miles, but 
 before he could come out, I met the Minnesota 
 delegate, who passed me in. Miles then found 
 me, and there being a vacant seat next him within 
 the bar, I took it, and sat beside him, and heard a 
 deal of discussion, whether they should have a paid 
 Chaplain to open their proceedings with prayer, or 
 whether they should accept an offer from several 
 clergymen to do it alternately, free gratis for 
 nothing. It amused me a good deal, especially 
 when one of them agreed it would save them 10,000 
 dollars a year, to accept the offer of gratuitous 
 services. At two o clock the House adjourned 
 until Monday next, when the Speaker will name 
 the various Committees. Just before adjourning, 
 a message was sent from the Superintendent of 
 Public Works, to say that the New Hall was quite 
 ready for the use of the House. I then bid adieu 
 to the House of Eepresentatives, and intended to 
 look a last look at the Senate, but they were in 
 secret session with closed doors, and all strangers 
 excluded. I don t know what they could be doing, 
 so I left and visited the Patent Office, where I was 
 interested in examining some of the models. All 
 persons who take out patents are compelled to 
 
deposit a correct model of their invention, and 
 these models are kept in glass cases, in a large 
 hall. Mr. Miles kindly got me a copy of the 
 last report of the Patent Office. In another 
 portion of the same building, are preserved some 
 most interesting historical relics ; transcendant 
 beyond all, is the original Declaration of Inde 
 pendence, with the signatures, which, alas, are 
 rapidly fading away! John Hancock s is still 
 visible, but that is about all now legible. In the 
 same case are Washington s coat and trowsers, 
 sword, camp equipage, writing desk, and some 
 interesting documents : the original treaties with 
 Louis the XVI., Napoleon, and other European 
 powers, with their signatures. The rest of the 
 room is an ordinary museum. I then visited the 
 Smithsonian Institute, which is founded by the 
 will of a Mr. Smithson, for public lectures, library, 
 &c. The building is very handsome, but still 
 unfinished. I did not call it particularly interest 
 ing, except a collection of Indian portraits, nearly 
 all of whom my cicerone knew, and had something 
 to say about each. At dinner I met our usual 
 Congressional party ; and having the usual sit with 
 Miles after, I went down stairs, and when I was in 
 the bar, a gentleman introduced himself to me, 
 and said he was a friend of Putnam s, and was a 
 Captain Bryant, of the United States Army. He 
 asked me if I was alone, if I would come to his 
 room, and spend an hour with him and a friend. I 
 
320 
 
 did so, and found the Captain a pleasant fellow : 
 had been in the wars with the Sioux, and all the 
 North Western Indians ; and told me all about 
 their trails and their fights, so two or three hours 
 passed pleasantly. They drank the health of Queen 
 Victoria, and then I proposed the United States 
 Army, which pleased them a good deal. A gentle 
 man stopped me one day in Washington, and 
 recalled himself to my mind as having been in the 
 stage with me from the Mammoth Cave to Louis 
 ville : he was ill, and I had the power of rendering 
 him some little service, for which he seems eternally 
 grateful. He is a medical student ; but what his 
 name is, I have no idea, though he knew mine pat 
 enough. 
 
 On Friday morning I rose early, and set off, 
 about eight, to the steam-boat, to go down and pay 
 a visit to Mount Vernon, the residence and birth 
 place of General Washington ! The sail down 
 was very beautiful, the day magnificent; we stopped 
 at Fort Washington going down, and landed to 
 look at it. It is well built, but neither garrisoned 
 nor armed; some cannon, but not complete. Shortly 
 after leaving the Fort, the bell of the steamer 
 began to toll a funeral knell, which told me we were 
 close to Mount Vernon. It is the honoured custom 
 of all steamers passing the burial place of Washington 
 to toll their bells, and has been long the practice. 
 I liked the thought the continued expression of 
 regret, that such a man could not live for ever the 
 
321 
 
 mark of national respect and gratitude, that no time 
 can efface. 
 
 On a hill stood the old wooden house, overlooking 
 the river ; we drew up at a small wooden pier, 
 and went ashore, having an hour and a half to stay. 
 The distance from the Capital is about twenty miles. 
 Walking up the path we came to the tomb, which is 
 an ugly brick arch, with an iron grate, containing 
 two stone sarcophagi one of the General, the other 
 of his wife. On his is an eagle, and this inscrip 
 tion, " Washington," simple and sufficient. But 
 what can I say of one right before the spectator, 
 cut on the end of his coffin ? I copied it, and here 
 it is, 
 
 BY THE PERMISSION OF 
 LAWRENCE LEWIS, 
 
 THE SURVIVING EXECUTOR OF 
 
 GENERAL WASHINGTON, 
 
 THIS SARCOPHAGUS WAS PRESENTED 
 
 BY JOHN STRUTHERS, 
 
 OF PHILADELPHIA, Marble Mason. 
 
 A.D. 1837. 
 
 As a specimen of an advertisement, it beats the 
 disconsolate widow" in Pere la Chaise. It staggered, 
 it disgusted me, and I turned away sadly chagrined. 
 I took a twig from a tree that hung over the vault : 
 I then visited the spot which he himself selected, 
 and where he was interred, but removed to the new 
 place. It is on the summit of a wooded knoll, and 
 
 commands a lovely view up and down the Potomac, 
 x 
 
322 
 
 How they dared to change the place, I cannot 
 imagine. His wish should have been law to the 
 end of time; but the people are so fond of change. 
 The house is a dilapidated wooden edifice, planned 
 by the General ; the outbuildings are in ruins, and 
 the ground neglected. The owner, John A. 
 Washington, is poor; they say he keeps it so that 
 the nation may buy it. From a negro woman I 
 bought a hickory stick, cut in the woods ; she was 
 inside the gate, which is not open for strangers, as 
 they pick and cut everything. Lots of little black 
 children toddling about. I went into one hut, and 
 saw two black babies, under the care of two little 
 darkies not much bigger themselves. 
 
 I hope, for the credit of the country, they will do 
 something to rescue this interesting spot from abso 
 lute decay. They are erecting an immense obelisk 
 at Washington in his honour, as ugly as anything can 
 be conceived. The money so spent, might have 
 been better employed in finding a fit resting-place, 
 for the remains of the greatest and purest of men, 
 the Founder of American Independence. They are 
 too busy speculating, and in too great a hurry to 
 give one thought to times gone by, or even to 
 services rendered. I gave one parting look at the 
 ugly advertising stone chest that contains his 
 remains, and went on board our little steamer; 
 got back at three, and dined again as usual. In 
 the evening, a band came to the hotel, and sere 
 naded the Speaker. He made them a short speech, 
 
323 
 
 expressing his gratitude for the unexpected com 
 pliment. 
 
 In talking with my Minnesotian friends, they 
 quite endorsed my opinion about St. Paul s, and the 
 impossibility of its maintaining its present forced 
 position, and the high price of its land and building 
 lots; mine was an opinion formed independently, 
 from what I saw myself; theirs from a long ac 
 quaintance with the place, and an interest in that 
 section of the country. 
 
 MONDAY, December I4.th. 
 
 I WKOTE so far on Saturday night. To resume. 
 On Friday night I bid all friends adieu, and arose 
 at five on Saturday morning, to catch the Potomac 
 steamer, en route to Richmond. The railway com 
 mences at a bend in the river, called Acquia 
 Creek, about fifty miles from Washington. The 
 boat was a large swift steamer, and the trip 
 very pleasant ; the day lovely and warm, and the 
 scenery on the river showed to great advantage. 
 In passing Mount Vernon the bell tolls, and I 
 caught a glimpse of the old house en passant. The 
 sweeps of the river are very pretty ; it is extremely 
 wide, and flocks of sea gulls followed us, to pick 
 
324 
 
 up the waifs and strays, in the form of bits of 
 bread, as we had breakfasted on board. 
 
 At breakfast, an extremely gentlemanly young 
 man, with some ladies, sat next me ; we got into 
 a chat, and afterwards, when I went on deck to 
 smoke a cigar, he joined me. In the course of 
 conversation he said he had met an Englishman at 
 Baltimore, that he had known at the Virginia 
 Springs, in the summer. I said, " Do you mean 
 Blakeway?" "Yes," he replied; "Is your name 
 Nicholls ?" I replied that it was. His name 
 is Allan, and he belongs to one of the oldest Vir 
 ginian families. At Acquia Creek we took the 
 cars. The road passes through a fine country, 
 and it seemed strange to see nothing but darkies 
 working in the fields. We reached Richmond 
 about three, and on arriving at the Hotel Ballard, 
 got an excellent room in the part always kept for 
 ladies and married people. I have a capital negro 
 man to wait upon me, who talks to me, and amuses 
 me greatly ; he is a big, fine young man, named 
 Henry Watkins, of course a slave, belongs to some 
 Mr. Tinsley. All the servants in the house, some 
 hundred and thirty-five, are slaves, so now I am 
 in full contact with the " domestic institution." 
 I had a fire in my room, and sat writing till near 
 two in the morning. Henry made up my fire in 
 the morning, and soon after some one came and 
 thundered at the door, and called out my name. 
 Who can this be ? thinks I. It proved to be young 
 
325 
 
 Newhall, of Philadelphia, who had been a week in 
 Richmond, and had seen my name in the book. 
 " Well," says he, " how do you manage to get 
 such capital rooms ? I never can." I told him 
 my appearance was sufficient to account for all that, 
 arid more ; he had seen my rooms at the Girard. 
 
 After breakfast I went to the Coloured Church, 
 where I saw some hundreds of coloured people, 
 from black to nearly white, most attentive to the 
 service. I believe it is a Methodist chapel ; the 
 preacher was a white man, niggers not being 
 allowed to preach, or even to learn to read or write. 
 I don t like that. Their singing was excellent, and 
 when the parson was more earnest than usual, you 
 could hear the old negroes groan out quite loud. 
 The men all sat on one side, the women on the 
 other. But who shall describe their toilets or their 
 hoops, or their crinolines even ? and for colours and 
 small bonnets, white, pink, blue and black lace, 
 gorgeously trimmed the hues of the rainbow were 
 poor in comparison to the glories of a coloured 
 congregation. It was a very interesting sight ; 
 except myself and the parson, there was not a 
 pure-blood white man there, and perhaps not ten 
 free blacks all slaves. I made my arrangements 
 to be in Richmond on Sunday, on purpose to go to 
 this church, and am glad I did so. It was a little 
 close, but I did not perceive any unpleasant odour 
 from them ; in fact, though I have had so many 
 near me, I have only once perceived anything 
 
326 
 
 unpleasant, and that was from a fat, greasy old 
 black, at Troy. They had a collection after ser 
 vice, and one old darkey offered up a prayer ; they 
 are allowed to pray to the God of all colours, hlack 
 or white. In the afternoon Mr. Allan called upon 
 me, and introduced me to a young Englishman, 
 who is going South ; he wishes to go on with me. 
 I shall cut him as soon as I can ; he is a regular 
 ass. He was half a day in Philadelphia, half a day 
 in Baltimore, one day in Washington, and then on 
 here. The evening I spent with Mr. Allan. His 
 mother is a very fine old lady ; she was at the ball 
 at the Hotel de Ville, at which Papa was. I 
 was introduced to a queer fish, a Mr. Ward, a 
 member of the legislature of Virginia, which is now 
 in session here, and which I shall see to-morrow. 
 
 When I came down this morning, the office- 
 keeper gave me a card which a gentleman left for 
 me, to my great surprise and pleasure : a gentleman 
 to whom you and I owe a deal of gratification, 
 amusement, and also instruction, I wish I could 
 keep you in suspense, but it was by G. P. R. James, 
 who is Consul at Richmond. I knew he was here, 
 and intended to call upon him, but was the more 
 pleased that he called first. His secretary lives at 
 the hotel, and had told Mr. James that I was here, 
 and so he called. Mr. Allan, 
 
 according to promise, brought his buggy and pair, 
 and drove me about the town, to see the views and 
 so forth ; the town is prettily situated on several 
 
327 
 
 hills, and is divided by the James River from the 
 town of Manchester, a small place on the other side. 
 We looked over Pow-hattan, where the Indian 
 Chief, the father of Pow-hattan, is buried. 
 
 We then went to a tobacco factory, and saw the 
 process of pressing the chewing tobacco : horrid, 
 dirty stuff, for a man to put into his mouth. We 
 also visited an immense flour mill, where they grind 
 some 1,500 barrels a day, an enormous establish 
 ment. 
 
 I afterwards called on Mr. James; he is an old 
 man, with a fine head, and takes a large amount of 
 snuff: he asked after Sir John Potter, but it proved 
 to be Sir Thomas he meant ; he invited me to 
 dine with him on Wednesday at five o clock, which 
 I promised to do. On my return, I found Mr. 
 
 H s card, and several others, so you see I am 
 
 getting on middling well, though I did not expect 
 to know a soul. I have some letters for here, but 
 have had no occasion to present them. 
 
 Among the servants are two so nearly white, that 
 I asked about them, and to my surprise was told 
 they were slaves. One, to my eye, is as white as I 
 am; has straight, rather light brown hair, and 
 looks for all the world like an English, or at the 
 farthest, an Irish lad; the other is not quite so 
 clear a white, and has black hair, not wool like the 
 true negro. I told Ballard I could not stand that. 
 No white slavery ! It is running too close to the 
 wind, to keep in that condition those who have so 
 
328 
 
 large an admixture of pure blood in their veins ; 
 perhaps not more than 1-1 6th or 1- 32nd part is black 
 blood. When that point is reached, they ought to 
 be free, and possess the rights of freedom, for they 
 must certainly be as capable of taking care of 
 themselves as necessary unlike the negroes, who 
 are as so many children. 
 
 WEDNESDAY. 
 
 YESTERDAY morning, I went down the street in 
 which the hotel is situated, to two dirty-looking 
 empty rooms, except for a few forms, and a stone 
 block : from their doors hung out red flags, on which 
 were affixed notices that so many negroes would 
 be sold at ten o clock. 
 
 Imagine a dirty apartment, with a row of forms 
 against the wall; in the centre a raised platform, 
 and a lower one on one side ; a little behind, 
 another form, on which three girls were sitting, and 
 a woman and child, a little boy, and a little girl, 
 and leaning against a pillar, one man. These 
 were all for sale ; and as the room filled with men 
 chewing and smoking, those who thought of pur 
 chasing, * went to the cattle" and examined them, 
 feeling their arms and hands, turning back their 
 fingers and thumbs to see that the joints worked 
 
329 
 
 freely, opening .their mouths to look at their teeth, 
 and treating them generally as you would in buying 
 a horse or a dog. Whilst watching this, some one 
 came in and announced that he was just about to 
 sell two boys, and would be glad if the company 
 would step up to his auction room. I went with 
 the crowd, and found two young men about to be 
 disposed of. They were taken behind a screen and 
 stripped, so that the purchasers could see whether 
 they were sound, and free from ah 1 blemishes of any 
 kind. One was then ordered to mount the block, 
 his feet bared, and his trowsers turned up, that his 
 limbs might be perfectly seen. The bidding com 
 menced, and ran up to about 800 dollars. He was 
 then ordered to go down, and walk quickly once or 
 twice the length of the room, that people might see 
 he had no lameness : put on the stand again, and 
 finally knocked down for 905 dollars. The other 
 one took his place, and being a likely, strong youth, 
 the bidding ran up, and he was sold for 1,020 dollars. 
 We then adjourned to the auction rooms, and the 
 girls were put up ; one went for 820, but a mulatto 
 girl only brought about 620. The man was then put 
 up, but he did not seem to suit the market, and was 
 withdrawn: a little girl about 13 was then sold, 
 but it was found on examination she had a burn, 
 or some mark on her stomach, she brought but a 
 low price, as damaged goods. The little boy was 
 bid for so poorly, that the auctioneer withdrew him, 
 and declared the sale over for the day. The 
 
330 
 
 mulattoes are not so valuable as the pure blacks, 
 the admixture of white blood weakens the race, and 
 in time they die out. This morning I saw a 
 mulatto sold; he was said to be a good coachman, 
 but only brought 430 dollars. Then there were 
 two more young men for sale; but I had had enough, 
 my very soul was sickened with what I had seen. 
 Yet I cannot say there was any cruelty practised, 
 or that the slaves appeared in the least to feel 
 their position; but still there was the naked fact, in 
 all its hideousness, of one human being disposing 
 of another by public auction, and evidently consi 
 dering that the human cattle were no more worth 
 than dogs or horses. " Now, gentlemen, give me a 
 bid; anything to start with. Here is a likely young 
 negro, right and tight and sound?" that was his 
 expression ; and between bids he kept repeating 
 it, " Right and tight and sound." I find that this 
 sale of slaves is looked upon by the respectable 
 classes with the greatest abhorrence, and the office 
 of slave auctioneer esteemed about parallel with 
 that of hangman. I afterwards walked with Mr. 
 
 H about the town, who showed me some parts 
 
 I had not seen before. We went to the Capitol, 
 and walked into the Chambers, which adjourned 
 soon after. Each state has its two houses, one of 
 delegates, one for the Senate, arranged much the 
 same as those at Washington; we went to the 
 Library, and saw Washington s cane and telescope, 
 which I had in my own hand. 
 
331 
 
 This morning, after the sale, I went to the Capitol, 
 and found one of the delegates to whom Allan had 
 introduced me; an extraordinary creature, named 
 Ward, from the wild back woods of Western Virginia, 
 for the old dominions contain primeval forests of 
 immense extent, mountain ranges, and splendid 
 scenery, including the natural bridge ; then, there 
 are the springs, and the Weir s Cave, which I should 
 like to have seen; but remember the State of 
 Virginia is as large as all England; and to see the 
 natural bridge from here, would consume five days. 
 
 I got a seat inside the House, and listened for 
 nearly three hours to an interminable discussion 
 on the appointment of a public printer, during 
 which members shook their fists in each other s 
 faces, whilst some sat with their feet on desks in 
 front of them ; certainly not a dignified assembly 
 by any means. The beauty of it was, that when 
 all was done, they were not one bit nearer the 
 solution of their question than when they com 
 menced, and on their adjournment had not decided 
 whether they would proceed to the election, or 
 postpone it until Monday next. It was an amus 
 ing exhibition taken as a whole, but left a query in 
 my mind unsatisfied How does legislation get on 
 at all, in such a body? In truth, as I have 
 often observed, this country gets on without being 
 governed at all, in our sense of the word. The time 
 to try their institutions has not arrived, but when 
 the country is more fully peopled, then will be the 
 
332 
 
 real test. I went to Mr. James s, where I met a 
 pleasant party, and spent a delightful evening. Mr. 
 James is a genial, jovial, and amusing man, full of 
 anecdotes and stories; he is well off, and owns a 
 deal of land in Wisconsin, where one of his sons is 
 settled, who is a civil engineer, and in that capacity 
 has constructed several railroads. The present 
 
 Duke of lays out 5,000 dollars a year in land 
 
 in that State, leaving young James to select it 
 for him. Mr. James is about sixty, and takes 
 enormous quantities of snuff ; has given up smok 
 ing, he used to smoke twenty- eight cigars a day, 
 but nevertheless gave us some excellent ones after 
 dinner. He was anxious to have had Governor 
 Win to meet me, but he could not come. 
 
 I got your letter by the Europa last evening; 
 she was sixteen days in crossing. Bless your dear 
 heart, there is no more danger from wars than if I 
 were at home. I dare say you are dull without 
 me, and I shall be glad to get to my own dear 
 home again, but still, now that I am so far, I must 
 see all I can. I cannot yet make up my mind 
 about The Havana. To-morrow I start for Charles 
 ton, twenty-six or thirty hours journey, and hope 
 to see some of the plantations, and negro labour 
 as it really is. 
 
333 
 
 MILLS HOUSE, CHARLESTON, 
 
 December IQth. 
 
 ON Thursday morning I paid one more visit to 
 the slave auction room, and saw several more 
 negroes disposed of as before, and although the 
 keen edge of disgust may to some extent wear off 
 on seeing more of it, that is because of its really 
 hardening influence on the mind, and not that it 
 has one redeeming point about it. " Here is a fine 
 young man, good field-hand, can drive and plough, 
 warranted sound and healthy, right and tight and 
 good." There he stands on a stool, looked at, 
 pulled, examined, made to walk or run, to show 
 his paces, his eye wandering anxiously round, to 
 see who may be his next master, and what his future 
 lot and destiny ; and the hardened wretch stands 
 by his side, and knocks him down to the highest 
 bidder, as he has done some hundreds before, 
 making them of no more account than so many 
 cattle. Such an exhibition is a crying shame to 
 the country, and can never produce good; its evil 
 effects sink deep in the social heart of the South, 
 and yield the most baleful fruit. I then called 
 upon Mr. James ; he was not in. His new novel 
 is called " Lord Montague s Page, a Tale of the 
 
334 
 
 Seventeenth Century," and begins, " On a dark and 
 stormy night." "I saw it in the manuscript. 
 
 I started at three o clock for Charleston; the 
 rail crosses the James river, close to the falls, 
 which are rapids, extending some distance, filled 
 with islands, from a square foot to near an acre in 
 size, and on through the forest, to Petersburg. 
 Here we changed cars, and went on to Weldon, 
 where we arrived about half-past eight, and had tea. 
 
 At nine, we left in other cars for Wilmington, 
 and arrived there about half-past four in the morn 
 ing. Here we staid an hour and a half, and had 
 breakfast. We then crossed Cape Fear river in a 
 steamboat, and taking the cars on the other side, 
 went on to Florence, the road passing through a 
 pine forest the whole 107 miles, not a town or 
 village to be seen, only a few log huts for stations. 
 In many places the swamps are large and deep, 
 and the road carried over on piles, the water below 
 discoloured with decaying vegetable matter, and vast 
 trunks of trees rotting in the swamp : the trees are 
 hung with a peculiar moss, that gives the appearance 
 of hair, producing a singular effect. Florence 
 proved to be a wooden station, and a wooden eating- 
 room, where we had dinner; and at one o clock 
 started in another railway for Charleston. The 
 road from Florence is equally through forest; in 
 some places the line runs for miles, as straight 
 as an arrow, without the slightest bend in it. 
 On the road you see the pine trees cut and tapped, 
 
335 
 
 to allow the turpentine to run out, being one 
 great staple of the district. We also passed some 
 cotton fields; the plants looked black and un 
 interesting, the crops being gathered. I only saw 
 one field that still retained a sufficient quantity to 
 give some faint idea of what the appearance 
 must be, when the ripened pods burst, and their 
 white films cover the whole, as though with the 
 purest snow. Curiously enough, the engine that 
 brought our train from Florence, was named after 
 my good friend Wm. Porcher Miles, which I took 
 for a good omen. We arrived at Charleston about 
 eight. I came straight to the Mills House, and got 
 excellent accommodation, pretty well tired as you 
 may suppose. I woke this morning, and felt a 
 considerable shaking of the room, which I supposed 
 to be an earthquake : when it was over, I went to 
 sleep again as composedly as ever, and I find it has 
 been a very sharp shock. 
 
 The morning mild arid beautiful, I sallied forth 
 to take a look at Charleston, which bears the 
 appearance of being a good age. The houses- 
 of the better class are all surrounded with gardens, 
 and have terraces and verandahs, which make them 
 look well, and conduce to their comfort in the 
 extreme heats of the summer. I walked straight 
 down Meeting Street, and came to a fine open 
 public part, right upon the sea, with the fresh 
 Atlantic breeze, and the water dancing and spark 
 ling in the sun. The harbour is a fine one, 
 
336 
 
 not very deep. At the corner of the street I saw 
 a coloured man, and asked him if he knew where 
 Mr. Gourdin lived ? " Exactly." This was his 
 answer. " Well, can you tell me where his office 
 is ?" " No one hetter ; I waits on him." So I had 
 accidentally hit upon his own servant. Following 
 his direction, I turned down a street, and met Lewis 
 Young, who took me straight to Mr. Gourdin s. 
 Mr. Matthiessen joined us directly ; Mr. Robert 
 Gourdin was at Savannah. They were extremely 
 glad to see me. I expect to visit some plantations 
 this next week ; it will be the darkies holiday, and 
 they give themselves up to fun for three days, so 
 that if I get on some out-of-the-way plantation, I 
 shall not be able to send you a letter per the Boston 
 steamer ; in fact I have now the difficulty I had in 
 the West, not knowing when I ought to post a 
 letter to ensure its catching the steamer ; you 
 won t, however, be uneasy, now you know the 
 reason, should I miss a post. This is indeed a 
 glorious climate ; to-day, the 19th of December, 1 
 am sitting with my coat off, and the window open, 
 writing to you; not too hot, but that agreeable, 
 temperate heat, which is not difficult to endure 
 with plenty of exercise. 
 
337 
 
 [The second letter from Charleston, containing a long 
 and minute description of the cotton plantation, and 
 addressed to Mr. Nicholls, was unaccountably and 
 unfortunately lost.] 
 
 HAVANA, January 7th, 1858. 
 
 MY DEAR MAMMA, 
 
 As I find there is a chance of catching 
 the next steamer from Boston, if I write to-day, 
 I shall content myself with a few lines to say that I 
 have arrived safe in Her Spanish Majesty s domi 
 nions of Cuba. 
 
 We left Charleston on Monday morning, and 
 arrived here this morning about nine seventy-three 
 hours sailing. Mr. Gourdin introduced me to a 
 young Englishman from Liverpool, named Forwood, 
 so we managed to come on together, which has made 
 it much pleasanter for me. On board the Isabel, 
 Forwood met a German he knew, named Weiss, 
 so we three made a party to ourselves. Mr. Gour 
 din gave me a letter to the captain of the Isabel, 
 who was extremely polite to us. The weather was 
 charming, very little swell. We coasted along to 
 Edisto, one of the Sea Islands, and at three stopped 
 
 off Savannah, to leave mails, &c., and a small 
 Y 
 
338 
 
 steamer came to fetch them on shore. Tuesday, 
 saw but little land. Wednesday, ran all day along 
 the coast of Florida, seeing nothing but the barren 
 coral reefs, which render this shore so extremely 
 dangerous; sometimes we were not two hundred 
 yards from the reefs, which rise almost perpendicu 
 larly from the bottom of the ocean, with deep water 
 quite close to them. Plenty of porpoises played 
 about us, with shoals of small fish almost springing 
 out of the sea, to escape from the dolphins. In 
 the course of the afternoon, we saw an immense 
 turtle quietly swimming along, and lazily raising his 
 head to look at us as we passed. I wonder if he 
 knew what an alderman is ? Man-of-war birds, 
 pelicans, were busy sailing about in search of the 
 poor little fish, which are thus surrounded with 
 enemies in the air, as well as the sea. The only vessels 
 we saw, were small schooners belonging to wreckers, 
 it being their principal occupation : as, owing to the 
 dangerous navigation, shipwrecks are of constant 
 occurrence. About half-past eight at night, we 
 arrived at Key West, in Florida, where we stopped for 
 half-an-hour, to land cargo, mails, and passengers ; 
 so took a walk on shore, and, for the first time, saw 
 cocoa-nut trees, palms, and so forth, in the streets 
 and gardens. Tropical vegetation is a new wonder 
 to me; and most luxuriant it appears. Soon as we 
 left Key West, where we took on board a bride and 
 bridegroom, who had gone there from Havana to 
 be married, as there is no Protestant place of 
 
339 
 
 worship in Cuba, and, by the way, the gentle 
 man, a Mr. Wills, a very nice young German, 
 proved to be the agent in Havana both of Forwood 
 and Weiss, and made himself useful to us at 
 once, we passed some more coral reefs, and then 
 entered the great Gulf Stream, where there was a 
 good deal of motion. The night was hot, and the 
 state-rooms close. I saw some immense cock 
 roaches walking about the sides and ceiling, at least 
 from two to three inches long, some of which I 
 killed ; but as so many more came to the funeral, 
 I soon desisted, and fell asleep. I dressed, and 
 came on deck about six, and found the Island of 
 Cuba, bathed in the golden light of early morning, 
 lay before us, the mountains dim and hazy ; and 
 right a-head the Mora, the castle and lighthouse, 
 and the white dwellings of Havana ! Close to the 
 ship whole myriads of flying-fish darted from the 
 water, and skimmed along its surface : they do 
 not seem to rise high, but fly along on the top of 
 the sea ; and every now and then, we saw a 
 beautiful nautilus, sailing about in its stately shell ! 
 Hot was the morning, hotter was the day ; and 
 when we rounded into the harbour, and dropped 
 anchor, we found what a West Indian January is. 
 We breakfasted on board, and found the place 
 quite full. At last one of the hotel agents said he 
 could give us a room with three beds in it, which 
 we were fain to take, at the Gardiner s House. 
 The room is high up and airy, and removed from 
 
340 
 
 the close smells of the lower part of the houses, 
 which are not unlike those of the Croce di Malta. 
 This is the healthy season, but still very hot ; no 
 sickness ahout. I shall not attempt any description 
 of the town till I have seen more of it. Mr. Wills 
 took me to Mr. Crawford, to whom he is related by 
 marriage. The old gentleman was very polite, and 
 invited me to go there to-morrow evening, when 
 they are at home. I also saw Mr. Bell, who crossed 
 over with me in the Asia. Last Sunday, I dined and 
 spent the day with Mr. Gourdin. They have indeed 
 been kind to me ; and all of them quite sorry to 
 part with me : the lads have done all they possibly 
 could, far more than I could have expected : 
 Mr. Robert wished me to go to Savannah with him, 
 and see the rice plantation, but I had not time. 
 
 HAVANA, 
 
 January 2$tk, 1858. 
 
 MY DEAR MAMMA, 
 
 I EEALLY have been most fortunate in 
 always meeting with some agreeable companions 
 to travel with, which, after all, is a great comfort, 
 more especially in a place like this, where the lan 
 guage is one you are totally unacquainted with. 
 
341 
 
 It is of less consequence in the United States, 
 particularly when your letters of introduction turn 
 out well, which mine certainly have done, in every 
 instance. 
 
 My last letter I had finished before I had seen 
 anything of this curious and interesting city, and 
 was an account of the voyage itself. 
 
 After our arrival we got such accommodation as 
 we could at the Gardiner s House ; but I imagine it 
 would be quite impossible to find worse hotels in any 
 part of the world than are to be met with in Havana. 
 The city stands in a fine harbour, with two extensive 
 arms running into the land, at almost right angles 
 to each other. The entrance from the ocean is 
 rather narrow, and is commanded by a fine fort, 
 called the Mora, on which is an excellent light 
 house, with revolving light. On landing at the 
 shed, which serves the purpose of a custom-house, 
 our luggage was very slightly examined, and on 
 payment of two dollars we received permissive 
 passports to remain one month in the island, our 
 passports themselves being retained at the Police 
 Office. I took mine with me, in case I should 
 need one, which was vised by the Spanish Consul 
 at Charleston. 
 
 We followed the hotel proprietor (who had come 
 on board to look for game) through narrow streets, 
 until we reached the Calle del Oreille, in which 
 this lovely mansion is situated, and, as I told you, 
 met those delicious odours which brought back 
 
342 
 
 reminiscences of other places. We had break 
 fasted on board, but found a second repast pre 
 pared, and sat down at table, on which were dishes 
 quite unknown to me, and which will so remain, 
 for of all messes I never saw their equal before. 
 Among them were baked bananas, which showed 
 how far South we were. After dressing, we ven 
 tured forth, and endeavoured to find the office 
 and warehouse of Mr. Wills, who had been our 
 fellow-passenger. As there is no Directory, and 
 none of the large merchants have their names 
 affixed to their doors, and moreover, as we did not 
 possess three words of Spanish among us, it was a 
 work of some difficulty, and we had to proceed as 
 people do who cannot read, but have a direction 
 written down for them ; this we had, and showing 
 it first at one shop and then another, we gradually 
 succeeded in finding the place we wanted. Not 
 more than two vehicles can pass in the street, and 
 only one in the narrow ones. The footpaths, less 
 than a yard wide, will give you some idea of the 
 magnitude of the streets. The shops, for the most 
 part, are open to the footpaths, without any win 
 dows, merely a large open doorway, or more than 
 one, if the establishment be extensive, so that 
 there may be a free circulation of air. Very few 
 bui dings are more than two storeys high, and the 
 moment you leave the denser parts of the city, 
 have only one lofty storey. We passed the Gover 
 nor s palace, in front of which is a handsome 
 
343 
 
 square, laid out as a garden, a statue of the Queen 
 in the centre, which is a gravelled area, at each 
 corner of which there stands a magnificent palm 
 tree. The style of architecture throughout is no 
 doubt derived from old Spain, and would recall 
 that country to mind more than any other. The 
 population contains a large amount of negroes, 
 mulattos, some Chinese coolies, and various grades 
 of half-hreeds, from purely black to nearly white. 
 The labourers and servants are mostly negroes, the 
 better class of workpeople being Cubans or Spaniards. 
 These are an indolent race. Among the young 
 men you may see very many extremely handsome 
 faces, their striking paleness being rendered more 
 apparent by contrast with their black hair and 
 eyes; but all appearance of beauty is lost when 
 they grow older. Mr. Wills took me to see Mr. 
 Crawford, the English Consul, and though an intro 
 duction to him maybe necessary, I don t expect much 
 in that quarter; he invited me to come to his house 
 next evening, which I accepted. Forwood and I 
 then strolled about the city, along by the harbour, 
 where several Spanish ships of war are stationed, 
 more than usual, as it is expected they will soon 
 be at war with Mexico. 
 
 We were much amused with the vehicles in 
 common use here, called "volantes," which consist 
 of a body like half a phseton, with a large splash 
 board, two enormous wheels, and immense shafts, 
 which place the horse far in advance of the 
 
344 
 
 carnage ; the driver rides as postilion ; and in 
 these vehicles you see ladies driving about without 
 bonnets, quite in evening dress. Sometimes there 
 are two horses, the one being in the shafts ; the 
 other, ridden by the driver, is harnessed at one 
 side; the whole affair bears a strong resemblance 
 to the Maltese caleche. I have not seen a single 
 bonnet in the place ; the ladies go about with a 
 veil thrown over their heads. We found it so exces 
 sively hot, that we got light hats ; and I could not help 
 smiling when I thought how astonished you would 
 be if you could see your son, with his waistcoat 
 open, his collar turned down, bronzed face and 
 hands, a very handsome moustache, and a large 
 Spanish sombrero on his head 1 We then re 
 turned to our hotel, and had what they called 
 dinner, which I cannot pretend to describe. I had 
 some turkey, with a species of dirt for stuffing, 
 which I did not attempt to touch : the best part 
 was some capital oranges. The temperature was 
 82 all day, and about 76 at night. The stars shine 
 with a brilliancy we are not accustomed to ; and 
 the want of twilight is very striking to one from a 
 northern latitude : in ten or fifteen minutes from 
 sunset it is quite dark. In the evening we went 
 to hear the band play, in front of the palace, and 
 met some of our fellow-passengers. We had to put 
 up with cots to sleep in, which are mere canvass 
 stretchers, with a sheet over ; and were most 
 miserably bitten by mosquitos. Fortunately, my 
 
345 
 
 face escaped ; but the irritation in my hands and 
 legs, is intolerable. We got up about half-past six, 
 to have a walk, before the great heat of the day, 
 and strolled to the outside of the city : it is 
 quite impossible to take any exercise in the middle 
 of the day, the heat is so great; and it is not 
 advisable for new comers to be too much exposed 
 to the noonday sun. After dinner, Forwood and I 
 went out in another direction, and visited another 
 hotel, but found it no better than our own. We 
 walked as far as a large barrack, in front of which 
 a number of soldiers were being drilled. We walked 
 on as far as the shore, where the wild Atlantic 
 dashes on the coral rocks that surround this part 
 of the island : then we passed a large building, 
 and heard a great clanking of chains, which 
 proceeded from several gangs of convicts, who were 
 returning to this place, which we found was the 
 prison, from their various labours. They were all 
 chained by the legs, some two and two ; others, 
 merely from their ankles to their waists. They 
 were accompanied by armed men, and drivers, who 
 carried immense whips, which, no doubt, are often 
 used. While we stood there, at least from two to 
 three hundred passed in; and a person near, to 
 whom I spoke in French, told me there were about 
 10,000 in the prisons. I thought there were more 
 blacks than whites ; but a more ferocious-looking 
 set of beings I never saw: I could not help feeling a 
 strong pity for them; such treatment must convert 
 
346 
 
 men into wild animals. I returned to the hotel, 
 dressed, and went to Mr. Crawford s, where I found 
 some twenty people. We had tea, and talked, and 
 I left at half-past ten, quite tired. 
 
 Their houses are well suited to the climate : this 
 is one storey high. The entrance hall is the 
 principal central room, with a marhle floor; a room 
 at each end forming a suite of three apartments ; 
 the windows are merely large openings, with iron 
 bars running longitudinally; no glass, and Venetian 
 shutters, all open and lighted up ; any passer-by 
 can see everything going on. As you pass down 
 the street, you see into all the houses at night, in 
 the same way. I called at Le Grand Hotel, outside 
 the city, as I returned, and found Weiss, Forwood, 
 and Mr. Getty (Wills senior partner) having some 
 supper, of which I gladly partook, being really 
 hungry. As we returned through the gates, the 
 sentinel challenged us, and Mr. Getty replied that 
 we were for Spain, and friends (Amigos). 
 
 This morning, after a few more mosquitoes, 
 Forwood and I got up early, and had a walk. 
 About half-past eight, went to Mr. Getty s, and had 
 breakfast. He was amused at our hunger, as we 
 cannot really eat the stuff at the hotel, and so 
 invited us from absolute charity. Before breakfast 
 we visited some half-dozen churches, all poor and 
 shabby in the extreme. In the course of the day, 
 we got better rooms, which had been promised us 
 when the late occupiers (a young Russian prince 
 
347 
 
 and his tutor) left, which they did to-day. After 
 dinner, we took a carriage, and drove out to the 
 Serro, a suburb of the city, containing very many 
 handsome dwellings, all in the same style, with 
 their verandahs and exposed rooms surrounded with 
 beautiful gardens, filled with the wild luxuriance of 
 tropical vegetation ! We drove under avenues of 
 almond trees, the oleander blossoming at the road 
 side, the stately palms, palmettos, and cocoa-nut 
 trees varied the larger growth; and as for the multi 
 tude of beautiful shrubs, my botanical knowledge is 
 too limited to describe them at all ! We went on as 
 far as the old Bishop s Palace and Gardens, which 
 is now a desolate ruin, but has been a splendid 
 garden sometime. Here we saw the banana, the 
 palm, the bamboo canes growing in large clusters, 
 making a singular creaking noise in the wind, not 
 unlike the straining of a ship s masts. One tree 
 we could not make out, but it proved to be the 
 bread-fruit tree, with the fruit hanging on it : the 
 large cactus plant, fuschias, roses, all growing in a 
 wild, uncultivated state ; plants requiring the 
 greatest hot-house care with us ! I think the palm 
 the most beautiful tree I ever saw, with its long, 
 peculiar- shaped trunk, without a single rough 
 branch, and the tuft of magnificent leaves at the 
 top, gracefully hanging, like feathers, from its lofty 
 head ! For garden beauties, I never had a more 
 delightful drive in my life anywhere ; and the 
 pleasure vastly increased by the natural productions 
 
348 
 
 of this fair West Indian Isle ! It seems strange to 
 me to think I am really in the West Indies, where 
 I never expected to be in my life : I am glad to 
 have seen the tropics; but I would not live here for 
 anything in the world. 
 
 TUESDAY. 
 
 ON Sunday morning, early, we went down 
 to the principal church, attended by the military, 
 but it was really nothing particular; and after 
 breakfast, just as we were going out for a walk, 
 we found a large funeral passing the door, of 
 the Intendant s wife. The body was carried by 
 four persons, on a sort of bier, with a pall thrown 
 over, but no coffin; and you could see the form of 
 the corpse, and even the feet, which had on a new 
 pair of boots, so, I presume, she was dressed out 
 in very fine clothes: we counted 140 carriages in 
 the procession. We then crossed the harbour, in 
 a small boat, and went up a flight of stairs, which 
 brought us between the lines of fortifications, on 
 the heights opposite the city. The forts are of 
 great strength and size, and it took us a good while 
 to pass over. The road brought us finally to the 
 sea- shore, where we wandered for some time, pick 
 ing up pieces of coral. The reefs are all coral; 
 
349 
 
 but, of course, not like the beautiful coloured 
 productions of the Mediterranean. It was dread 
 fully hot, and we returned to the hotel very much 
 fatigued. After dinner, we took a " volante," and 
 drove to the Amphitheatre, to see a bull-fight. The 
 Queen of Spain has had a son lately; and, there 
 fore, there have been sundry rejoicings among 
 them, this bull-fight. 
 
 You can imagine the arena at Verona, built of 
 wood, and hence have a good idea of the circus 
 here ; it is very large, and I should say would hold 
 10,000 persons, or thereabouts. At half-past four 
 the picadores, bandellieros, and matadores, all 
 entered the arena, and bowed to the Captain 
 General s box, in which the director of the fight 
 sat, with a trumpeter by his side. He threw down 
 a key, which a man tried to catch in his hat; if he 
 succeeded he received half an ounce, if not he went 
 without ; this time he missed. 
 
 The picadores were two in number, and rode on 
 horseback, with thick spears in their hands. The 
 bandellieros shake the coloured cloths, to enrage 
 the bull, the matadores finish the contest. As 
 soon as the key was received it was applied to a 
 door, just below where I sat ; the man threw it 
 open, and got behind it, when out rushed a mag 
 nificent black bull, with a small ribbon fastened in 
 his back, which is done with a sharp iron, to enrage 
 him. He flew round, glared wildly about, when 
 one or two of the bandellieros ran to him, and 
 
350 
 
 shook a coloured cloth in his face, at which he 
 immediately charged. At four points round the 
 arena were double shields, behind which the men 
 could get if hard pressed, and too strong to be 
 broken down by the bull. The picadores attacked 
 him with their spears ; he flew at the horse, and 
 gored his legs, which bled profusely, and turning 
 suddenly on the other, before the man could pro 
 tect it with his spear, plunged his horns into the 
 poor thing s belly, and tore it so much that its 
 bowels hung out. Again he charged, and quite 
 ripped it open ; the horse fell, the man was got off, 
 the bull being attracted by the other men, in order 
 to save him ; he again turned, and finding the horse 
 on the ground, gored it fearfully. The trumpeter 
 then sounded his horn, and each bandelliera took 
 two small darts in his hand, ornamented with 
 paper, and ran about the bull until they had an 
 opportunity of thrusting them into his neck. The 
 maddened creature roared and dashed at the men, 
 but they, springing nimbly aside, got behind the 
 shields for protection. When the horn blew again, 
 the matador made his appearance, and bowing to 
 the box, took a red mantle in one hand and a 
 sword in the other ; the mantle he shook in the 
 bull s face, nimbly leaping aside when the infu 
 riated beast was about to charge; at last, seeing his 
 chance, he plunged the sword in the animal, just 
 above the shoulder. Its bellowings were the most 
 loud and terrible, as it rushed about in mortal 
 
351 
 
 agony. The sword at last fell out, and the matador 
 took it again, and again drove it into the back of 
 its neck; the bull dropped on its knees, the blood 
 pouring from its mouth, and then a man stepped 
 up, and drove a small sharp dagger into the back of 
 the neck, I presume into the spine, when it fell 
 dead. Then three mules, gaily caparisoned, came 
 in, and drew its body away, and dragged off the 
 carcase of the horse. 
 
 The activity of the men is most wonderful; and 
 their escapes hair-breadth at times : running, 
 jumping, shaking the cloths in the bulls faces, 
 springing on one side to avoid the charge, and often 
 driven to shelter behind the screens, they carry 
 their lives in their hands. The gate opened again, 
 and out rushed another bull, which immediately 
 attacked a horseman ; and, plunging its horns in 
 the horse s side, threw horse and man to the 
 ground. They got up, only to receive another 
 attack, until the horse was killed, although the 
 other rider tried to divert its attention, which ended 
 in this man being badly hurt before the trumpet 
 sounded, and the attack with darts commenced: 
 the matador took two thrusts before that bull was 
 killed. After this, Forwood said he had had 
 enough; I thought he would have fainted. I 
 felt veiy queer, but got over it; and was resolved 
 to see it out, as I had come for the purpose. The 
 next bull had long sharp horns, like the first. He 
 soon finished one horse, by breaking his leg; and, 
 
352 
 
 turning on another, ran his horns straight into its 
 chest. The blood spurted from the large wound; 
 the horse began to quiver and stagger, and then 
 fell, and got up, and fell again ; but before it was 
 quite dead, the bull charged it again, and tore it 
 dreadfully, when they attacked this one with darts. 
 They had fireworks somehow attached to them, 
 which went off, burning the animal s back, and 
 driving it into a perfect fury. The matador stood 
 in front a few minutes, exciting the beast still 
 more. He dodged it a few times, and then, stand 
 ing steady, plunged his sword close to the spine : 
 the animal fell on his knees, then over on his side, 
 and was dead immediately 1 This is the highest 
 achievement of the matador, to kill at one thrust, 
 and it was received with loud cheers. The fourth 
 bull was also killed with one blow ; the fifth had 
 two sword thrusts; and the sixth escaped with his 
 life as it had got dusk, and his death could not 
 have been properly witnessed. In all, eight horses 
 were killed; six of them in the arena, and two 
 must have died soon after. 
 
 The excitement of the people is most extraor 
 dinary ; they shout and scream, clap their hands, 
 and almost dance, so much do they enter into the 
 sport, which, to my mind, is a most cruel exhibi 
 tion. If men like to fight bulls, let them do so, 
 but not bring poor horses to be miserably torn to 
 pieces for no purpose, for of course the horse has 
 no means of defence against such a formidable 
 
353 
 
 opponent as a bull. I am glad I have seen one, 
 but have no curiosity to repeat a visit. I expected 
 one man to have been killed ; the bull threw his 
 horse down, and he went with great force against 
 the wooden hoarding round the circle, and the 
 bull charged the horse several times as it lay down, 
 without, however, injuring him; he was dragged 
 from under, and seemed quite stunned. 
 
 On Monday, Mr. Crawford gave me a letter to a 
 Signor Arrieta, at Flor de Cuba, beyond Cardenas, 
 for which plantation we start in the morning. 
 Forwood accompanies me, but as he has business 
 here, we cannot leave until to-morrow; having, 
 therefore, one spare day, I took it easily, for I find 
 the climate very enervating. I went to the opera 
 
 in the evening, where I found and who 
 
 came over with us, and went behind the scenes, 
 where I smoked a cigar, and was introduced to Tag- 
 liafico, Amodeo, and some others. I had planned 
 to leave Havana to-morrow, but found the steamer 
 Quaker City belonged to a broken company, and is 
 seized for debt at New York, so I must wait for 
 the regular United States mail, of which there 
 is only one in a fortnight, and shall leave on 
 Sunday, by the Cahawba, for New Orleans. Weiss 
 and Forwood s friends, Gettig and Wills, have 
 been very kind to us; this evening we dine 
 with them, and go to Mr. Schneidler s afterwards, 
 to a wedding party, Wills having married a Miss 
 Schneidler. 
 
354 
 
 This is a horridly dear place, three-and-a-half 
 dollars a- day for miserable rooms, and nothing to 
 eat. I am nearly famished; and we are quite 
 grateful to any one to give us a meal s meat. I am 
 reminded of old Baker s acting ; instead of eating, 
 we are eaten, by mosquitoes, fleas, &c. I can 
 easily understand yellow-fever making such ravages 
 here in the summer and autumn : the people are 
 not as cleanly even as in Italy. On Tuesday evening, 
 we dined with our friends Gettig and Wills, and 
 had a really good dinner, which we thoroughly 
 enjoyed, and afterwards set off in a carriage to Mr. 
 Schneidler s, where we found a moderate-sized 
 party prepared for a dance. The house is con 
 structed on the usual plan of the houses here, 
 no proper windows, but the space filled with iron 
 bars, too close to admit any small child being put 
 through; lofty rooms, a good verandah in front, 
 all well lighted, and as open to the street as 
 though it were a ball at Belle-Vue. The parties 
 being early, all the carriages waited, and the 
 street was soon quite filled with them. The 
 drivers, and all the black population round about, 
 thronged the rails of the balcony, to see the 
 dancing, and hear the music. The gentlemen 
 smoked about the room, and sat in the balcony, 
 when not dancing. That part of the ball suited me 
 very well. I had one quadrille with a lady I met 
 at Mr. Crawford s. We had tea, lemonade, with a 
 little wine, or brandy and water for the gentle- 
 
355 
 
 men ; quite sufficient for the climate, but a poor 
 support for real hard dancing. We left about 
 half-past eleven, and got to bed a little after 
 twelve. 
 
 WEDNESDAY MOKNING. 
 
 I AWOKE exactly at half-past four, we put a few 
 things together, got a cup of milk and a poached 
 egg, and set off to the railway station for Tinguaro. 
 Fortunately for us the ticket clerk was an English 
 man ; he warned us to take care our pockets were 
 not picked. We took our seat in the carriage, 
 which was exactly on the American plan, except that 
 the seats were all cane-bottomed and sided, cool, but 
 confoundedly hard to travel 180 miles upon. We 
 started at six, at eight were detained till ten by 
 a train of cars loaded with produce having got 
 off the line a-head of our train, arrived at Guines, 
 where we breakfasted about eleven. We met in 
 the car a Cuban, who spoke English, and who 
 showed us where to change cars, and what cars to 
 take. He went with us to breakfast, ordered for 
 us, and to our vexation paid for us too. At Union 
 we changed cars, and again at Navajas, finally at 
 Bemba, as the line branches first to Matanzas, 
 then to Cardenas, and finally to Isabel. 
 
 We passed through a lovely country, groaning 
 
356 
 
 with a profuse vegetation, groves of orange trees, 
 loaded with fruit, bananas or plantains, bread-fruit 
 trees, cocoa- nutpalms, acres and acres of sugar canes, 
 fields of pine apples, mangos, guavas, and towering 
 above all the graceful but monotonous palm. 
 
 The country is rolling, and our horizon for 
 many miles was bounded by a chain of mountains. 
 After changing at Union we found another young 
 Cuban, who spoke English, named Fernandez ; he 
 was also going to Tinguaro to his plantation close 
 there, and he kindly offered to help us all he could. 
 The Flor de Cuba being about five miles from the 
 station, we did not know how to get over the dis 
 tance. At five we reached Tinguaro, and our friend 
 said, " There are some of the Flor de Cuba horses. 
 They were, however, for an overseer and two slaves, 
 one of them was manacled, having run away and 
 kept away three years. The overseer was rather a 
 surly fellow, by him we sent our traps to Flor de 
 Cuba, and then walked rather more than a mile to 
 the Tinguaro estate, belonging to the brother-in- 
 law of Sigiior Arrieta, Don Diego; Fernandez went 
 with us, but it so happened the owner was away, 
 and the chief superintendent, so that we could not 
 get any horses. The engineer came to us, and 
 being an Irishman, was glad to have a talk ; as it 
 began to get dark, being close on sun-down, 
 he said that he would put us on the road to the Flor; 
 he walked some distance, and showed us the light of 
 the place, as they make and use gas for themselves, 
 
357 
 
 and then left us. We walked on and came to a bend 
 in the road, which turned off to the right hand, 
 the light being straight before us. It was then 
 quite dark, not a soul to be seen, and fixed as we 
 were we did not want to see any one, as we had no 
 pistols with us, every one going armed about here. 
 We tried a large cane-brake, but could make nothing 
 of it; then went down the road, but it appeared 
 so bad and rough that we could make nothing of 
 it, and so returned again; still without success, we 
 then went further along the road, and at last I said, 
 let us try this narrow passage between the canes, 
 as I saw a light through it; this we did, and came 
 suddenly on a wide track with the Flor de Cuba 
 lights on our left; we had been wandering in the 
 dark more than an hour, and arrived at seven at 
 the estate, quite tired. A person took us into the 
 works, and we found Signor Arrieta, to whom I 
 gave Mr. Crawford s letter. He received us most 
 kindly, and sent us to the house close to the works, 
 which he keeps entirely for visitors, having so many 
 in the course of the year, and ordered some dinner 
 for us; our luggage had arrived, and we found a neat 
 bedroom ready. 
 
 After a very good dinner, the Signor came to us, 
 told us to do just as we liked, the only law he 
 enforced was, that we must be ready to go up to his 
 house at nine in the morning, to breakfast, and at 
 four, to dinner. He told us he had 800 slaves, in 
 cluding 200 Chinese coolies, who are slaves for 
 
358 
 
 eight years, called, however, apprentices. The 
 Chinese are treacherous, and he always wears a 
 sword, not knowing when or how they might be trou 
 blesome. He bid us good evening ; and afterwards 
 we went into the works, where all the processes are 
 conducted, from the sugar cane to the finished 
 sugar. The head engineer is a Scotchman, he 
 walked about with us, and told us a good deal rela 
 tive to the condition of the slaves. From the top 
 of the boilers we looked down into the fire-hole, 
 where they were feeding the furnaces with crushed 
 cane ; several men were working there in chains, 
 among them, the man we had seen manacled at the 
 station, and a big negro, with a whip, was lashing 
 it about their legs and backs every now and then. 
 All those who have misbehaved are set to work in the 
 fire-hole, it is the penal labour of this plantation, 
 both blacks and coolies. We then saw the immense 
 rollers, crushing the cane, and the sweet juice run 
 ning down, and along a canal, to the place where 
 it is forced up into the vat. In this state it is called 
 wardpo I drank some, but did not like it. Our 
 Scotch friend took us to his rooms, and said, he 
 would " gie us a gude drink." He sent a nigger for 
 some warapo from the first boiling, broke into it 
 some eggs, and put some rum into it, which made 
 a most superlative drink, and was not only good, 
 but did us good. We then went to bed about half- 
 past ten, well fatigued; our room was on the second 
 floor, and under was the young nigger nursery. 
 
359 
 
 Up at six the next morning, and into the works 
 again, where we interested ourselves for some time 
 in looking at the different processes, and admiring 
 the beautiful machinery, attended by the two curious 
 and distinct races of Africa and China, superin 
 tended by Spaniards, Cubans, Germans, and 
 French, with a Scotchman, to keep the moving 
 power in order, having several steam-engines under 
 his care. A little before nine, a carriage came down 
 for us, and took us to the house, a mile from the 
 works. We were introduced to Signora Arrieta 
 and her two sisters, all speaking English, having 
 been educated at New York. Signor Arrieta also 
 speaks English, and his brother a little, with whom 
 I spoke French, as also with Signora Diego, the 
 mother-in-law. They were all most kind, quiet, 
 unaffected, and simple in their ways. They only 
 come to this estate at the boiling season, when 
 Signor Arrieta is in his works, generally from four 
 in the morning until twelve at night, rather long 
 hours. About noon, the carriage took us down to 
 the works, when Signor Arrieta s brother went 
 round with us, and explained all the processes, 
 from the crushing mill to the completion of the 
 white sugar. They make about 10,000 boxes a 
 year, besides the Muscavado sugar and molasses ; 
 the Muscavado is dried in centrifugal machines, 
 and the treacle runs out into a trough at the bottom. 
 The negroes live in a large square, formed by their 
 houses, with a gate at each end, and a cookhouse 
 
360 
 
 in the centre. The Chinese are separated from 
 them, as there is great antipathy between the races. 
 A medical man lives on the premises, and great care 
 is taken of them. The Chinese will try and get 
 opium to smoke, and are much more difficult to 
 manage than the blacks ; they run away often, 
 commit suicide, maim themselves, but are far more 
 intelligent, and can be made good workmen, with 
 great care. 
 
 The negroes are true Africans, retaining their 
 language as the Chinese do theirs, but all knowing 
 some Spanish. I told Signor Arrieta I thought it 
 must be a difficult thing to manage such a combina 
 tion of elements, which he said was the case. To 
 the one slavery has no terrors, to the other it is 
 thoroughly obnoxious, and though called appren 
 tices for a time, they are slaves in reality. In their 
 case the owner has no interest beyond the term 
 of eight years, during which he must get all the 
 work out of them possible; they cost him a high 
 price, and he pays them each four dollars a month, 
 besides their food and clothes. The negro is his 
 for life, and therefore is not so hardly worked, 
 since, if he falls ill he must be kept, and if prema 
 turely old has to be relieved from toil. 
 
 I have not yet said anything to you about slavery 
 in the States; it is very different here, and in some 
 plantations exists in all its greatest horrors and 
 abuse, but at Flor de Cuba punishment is rare, 
 and they are all alike well treated. We had a 
 
361 
 
 walk in the garden, where all the splendid pro 
 ductions of these tropical regions nourish in wild 
 abundance. What do you think of green peas 
 ready in January, in the open air? I saw one 
 negro there, whose hack was terribly marked with 
 the lash, quite in long streaked wounds, which had 
 healed, but left life-long marks behind; I noticed 
 it, and pointed it out to Forwood, but made no 
 remark. At four the carriage came and took us 
 to dinner ; after dinner we had horses, and rode 
 over the plantation till quite dark, having only 
 been over about a third of it, we then returned to 
 the works and sat with Signor Arrieta; he is much 
 opposed to the slave trade, says it is entirely carried 
 on by the Spaniards, not Cubans, between whom 
 there is no love lost, and in fact the Cubans appear 
 to sympathise with the Americans. This estate, 
 so far as its arrangements are concerned, is the 
 best, and the best managed in the island, and 
 therefore the one most interesting to strangers. 
 We expressed our gratiude to Signor Arrieta, and 
 retired early, having to rise at half-past four, which 
 we succeeded in doing ; and at five, horses came 
 down, which took us to the Tinguaro Station, 
 arriving half an hour before the train left. It is a very 
 different mode of arriving at a station from what we 
 are accustomed to ; every one comes on horseback, 
 with pistols in the holsters in front of his saddle, 
 and the effect is decidedly picturesque. Of course 
 the road was the same we had travelled before, 
 
362 
 
 therefore nothing new; after all, the palm tree 
 becomes monotonous. We got safely back about 
 half-past three, choked with the red dust, which 
 rose from the fields 3 the soil being of that colour. 
 
 On Saturday, I went on board the Wdbasli, 
 an American frigate, a magnificent screw steamer, 
 6,000 tons. I introduced myself to the officer on 
 deck, who presented me to the first-lieutenant, by 
 whom I was conducted over the ship, and shown 
 everything with great politeness. On board the 
 Wabasli were a large number of Filibusters, who 
 had been seized by the ship, and were being carried 
 to New York. The first lieutenant expressed him 
 self to me very strongly on the subject of such 
 piratical expeditions, and I was gratified at the high 
 tone he took, showing that, although the rowdyism 
 of America may support such expeditions, the sen 
 sible people are quite opposed to them. We spent 
 Sunday, literally hanging about, watching for the 
 steamer, for they remain only a few hours, and 
 unless you are on the qui vive, you might miss 
 them. We dined with Mr. Gettig, at five, being 
 then too late for her to come in. During the after 
 noon, I saw another splendid funeral of a Count 
 Villa Nuova , who died of smallpox in the morn 
 ing buried in the afternoon ; short work that. 
 
 On Monday morning I got up early, and had the 
 felicity of seeing the Cahawbas ship masts, as she 
 came in about six. I was on board at half-past 
 ten, and at one we sailed. 
 
363 
 
 NEW OKLEANS, FEIDAY, 
 
 January %%nd. 
 
 NEVEK in my life was I so glad as to quit Havana. 
 It is a dirty, disgusting, plundering hole, and now 
 that I am safe, I will tell you that my anxiety to 
 escape was great, for not only had yellow-fever 
 broken out, but the most virulent kind of smallpox 
 was raging as an epidemic in one quarter of the 
 town, not where we were, fortunately, but how 
 soon it might reach, who can tell? I was, indeed, 
 thankful, as we placed mile after mile between us 
 and that place. The weather had been unusually 
 hot and close, for the season; hence disease was so 
 rife. Nearly all the people who came with us from 
 Charleston, left by the Cahawba, including Mr. 
 King, of "Washington, Attorney- General for the dis 
 trict of Columbia, all alike glad to escape. The 
 captain and purser were both officers in the navy, 
 and most agreeable and polite. The sea was rough, 
 but I did not miss a meal on board, but few 
 managed that. 
 
 On Tuesday night one of the sailors died; he had 
 been ill when the ship left New York, and on Wed 
 nesday morning at ten, I witnessed that sad and 
 impressive scene, a funeral at sea. The flags were 
 
364 
 
 hoisted half-mast high, the bell tolled, the engine 
 stopped, and the body, fastened up in sail-cloth, 
 with a heavy weight attached to the feet, the whole 
 covered with the ship s colour, was borne to the 
 after-deck, and placed by the paddle-box ; the crew 
 followed, the passengers all assembled, and with 
 uncovered heads, listened to that solemn service 
 which separates the dead from the living. The 
 captain read the service with great earnestness and 
 emotion, and at the words, " We commit his body 
 to the deep," the corpse was slid down the board 
 on which it was carried, and plunged into the blue 
 waters, the eddies curled round it for a few passing 
 moments and then no trace remained of the sailor s 
 grave. Afterwards, at New Orleans, in a paper 
 called the " Picayune," I found the following lines, 
 written by a passenger on board : 
 
 THE BURIAL OF THE DANE, 
 
 Blue Gulf all around us, 
 
 Blue sky overhead; 
 Muster all on the quarter, 
 
 We must bury our dead! 
 
 It is but a Danish sailor, 
 
 Rugged in front and form; 
 A common son of the forecastle, 
 
 Grizzled with sun and storm. 
 
 His name, and the spot he hailed from, 
 We know and there s nothing more ! 
 
 But perhaps his mother is waiting 
 In the lonely island of Fohr. 
 
365 
 
 Still as he lay there dying, 
 Reason drifting a wreck, 
 
 " Tis my watch," he would mutter, 
 " I must go upon deck." 
 
 Aye, on deck by the foremast! 
 But watch and look-out are done ; 
 
 The Union Jack laid o er him, 
 How quiet he lies in the sun ! 
 
 Slow the ponderous engine, 
 Stay the hurrying shaft! 
 
 Let the roll of the ocean 
 Cradle our giant craft ! 
 
 Gather around the grating, 
 Carry your messmate aft ! 
 
 Stand in order, and listen 
 
 To the holiest page of prayer ; 
 
 Let every foot be quiet, 
 Every head be bare, 
 
 While the soft trade-wind is lifting 
 A hundred locks of hair. 
 
 Our captain reads the service, 
 (A little spray on his cheeks) 
 
 The grand old words of burial, 
 And the trust a true heart seeks ; 
 
 " "We therefore commit his body 
 To the deep" and as he speaks, 
 
 Launched from the weather railing, 
 Swift as the eye can mark, 
 
 The ghastly, shotted hammock 
 Plunges, away from the shark, 
 
 Down, a thousand fathoms, 
 Down into the dark! 
 
366 
 
 A thousand summers and winters 
 The stormy Gulf shall roll 
 
 High o er his canvas coffin 
 But silence to doubt and dole ! 
 
 There s a quiet harbour somewhere 
 For the poor aweary soul. 
 
 Free the straining engine ; 
 
 Speed the tireless shaft ; 
 Loose to gallant and top- sail, 
 
 The breeze is fair abaft! 
 
 Blue sea all around us, 
 
 Blue sky bright o er head ; 
 Every man to his duty, 
 
 We have buried our dead! 
 
 On Wednesday evening, January 20, we reached 
 the bar of the Mississippi, but for miles we had 
 been sailing in a sea of liquid mud; the point of the 
 junction of the river and the tide is marked by a 
 white streak, and after that no more blue water. 
 We found the steamer, Empire City, fast on the 
 bar of the south-west pass, with several ships near 
 her, all in the same predicament, among which it 
 was a matter of great difficulty to steer ; at last, 
 a shout and a crash informed us we had run into 
 one, broken our bowsprit off, and damaged the star 
 board quarters ; we swung round, and nearly 
 carried away the Empire City s bowsprit, and then 
 almost into a third. The captain then gave it up, 
 and stood for the Pass a 1 Outre, which we reached 
 about twelve, and anchored for the night. 
 
 At six, on Thursday morning, we crossed the bar, 
 
367 
 
 and found ourselves in a sort of canal, between 
 rushes, covered with water, so that no ground was 
 visible. A little further, driftwood appeared; next, 
 attached to the rushes, gradually banking up, a little 
 sand; until by degrees, there showed some real firm- 
 looking land, and a few miles more being passed, 
 we found a hut here and there, a few acres cleared 
 and planted, the river being excluded by means of 
 banks or levees, as they are called here. On our 
 right hand we could still see the ocean, the land 
 forming merely a sort of bank between us and it, 
 not more than a hundred yards across in some 
 places. So it goes on, step by step, becoming 
 larger and larger as you sail up, until you meet 
 plantations, houses, roads, and everything apper 
 taining to terra firma. But the whole gradation 
 from muddy water to sugar plantations, is very 
 curious and interesting to see. The whole land is 
 formed by the deposits of this mighty river, which 
 reaches the sea by means of several mouths, les 
 sening the effect of entering very much indeed, 
 but which forms land with greater rapidity. Never 
 theless, it is a serious pity that so noble a stream, 
 more than 3, 000 miles long, should be thus choked 
 at its embouchures, rendering its navigation to the 
 ocean so difficult, as well as dangerous. We came 
 at last to the junction of all the mouths with the 
 main stream, a mile and a half wide. There had 
 been a strong freshet in the river, and the captain 
 said he had never seen it so high before. The cur- 
 
368 
 
 rent was strong against us, and we did not fairly 
 arrive at New Orleans until Thursday night, at half- 
 past ten, having been more than sixteen hours in 
 sailing up the river, 118 miles. We had brought 
 
 with us, from Charleston, a Mr. and Mrs. O , of 
 
 Washington; he was in a consumption, intending to 
 stay some time in Havana, but the sickness drove 
 him away ; he looked dreadfully wearied ; I felt 
 quite grieved for him ; he did not leave the ship 
 that night, it being damp and foggy. I went to the 
 St. Charles Hotel, where I found Herbert Shawcross 
 had engaged me a room. 
 
 SATUEDAY. 
 
 THE first person I saw yesterday was Herbert. 
 I went down to the steamer to get my traps, as it 
 was too late the night before to pass them through 
 the Custom House. 
 
 I called on Mr. Connor, to whom I had a letter 
 from Mr. Gourdin, and found two letters from you, 
 and two or three others : I was glad to have some 
 news about home; I was sadly wanting to hear, but 
 the time draws near when I hope to be at our 
 dear home. Don t imagine I am not as much an 
 Englishman as ever, but I am not a prejudiced 
 
369 
 
 Englishman; after all, what is the difference be 
 tween an American and an Englishman ? They live 
 on two sides of a great ocean, that is all. New 
 Orleans is a queer place, very dirty; not so hand 
 some by a great deal as I expected to find it, but 
 it feels quite cool and agreeable after that horrid 
 Havana. This hotel is a monster, accommodates 
 1,000 people; not any very striking buildings in the 
 city; the greatest curiosity is the Levee, covered with 
 cotton and merchandise, crowded with all the bustle 
 of a sea-port, the sides lined with a cloud of steamers, 
 those famous Mississippi boats. I could not help 
 laughing to think your fears for the Havana trip all 
 ran on pirates and so forth; how much more anxious 
 you would have been had you known the real 
 danger, but believe me had I known it I should 
 most certainly not have gone there, for you must 
 not think I would knowingly run such risks: I 
 thank God I am safe and well here. This morning 
 
 I was told our poor invalid passenger, Mr. O , 
 
 died in the night at this hotel; what misery to die 
 away from home, but it must be a relief that he 
 lived to reach America, and had not died in that 
 wretched Cuba, where the very existence of a 
 Protestant is ignored. 
 
 A A 
 
370 
 
 NEW ORLEANS, 
 
 January %7th, 1858. 
 
 MY DEAR MAMMA, 
 
 * * * * THIS New Orleans is the 
 dirtiest place I ever saw in my life, and as the 
 weather has been wet, the streets are all but im 
 passable from mud. Mr. Connor has been very 
 kind to me, but I have been unfortunate in not 
 meeting Mr. Claiborne until to-day, and as we leave 
 to-morrow, I cannot avail myself of his good offices 
 most kindly offered. Colonel Claiborne is attending 
 the Legislature at Baton Kouge, and, therefore, 
 away from his plantation at Point Coupee, and 
 the Hamptons are all absent owing to the wedding 
 of a son, who is married to-day, therefore I shall 
 not see any more plantations. I have, however, been 
 so fortunate all along that I cannot complain, though 
 just at one place I am not so lucky. Forwood and 
 I start together to-morrow afternoon up the river, 
 the steamer goes to Louisville and we shall get on 
 to Cincinnati, and take the Baltimore and Ohio 
 line to Baltimore. Louisville is 1,500 miles distant, 
 and I presume we shall be seven days getting there 
 a long and tedious journey but there is no other 
 practical way of going. There will be only one 
 
371 
 
 part of the country I shall not have seen Georgia 
 and Alabama but it is quite impossible to do it 
 all, and I am beginning to feel that I want my own 
 dear home again, and my usual occupations. New 
 Orleans stands, or, perhaps, more correctly speak 
 ing, floats on a swamp; dig down two feet and 
 all is water. The buildings are erected on planks 
 and piles sunk in the slime, and nothing but the 
 Levee prevents the city from being utterly des 
 troyed, as the level of the water is twelve feet above 
 the lowest part of the place. The streets are wide 
 but wretchedly paved, and a ride over them is like a 
 jolt over a newly-ploughed field, splashing and 
 floundering in oceans of mud; the gutters are 
 open, the green slime festers in them, and the 
 effluvia nearly as bad as in Havana. 
 
 On Tuesday Mr. Connor took me a drive to Lake 
 Pontchartrain : after leaving the town the road is a 
 good one, being made entirely of shells, beaten 
 down by the traffic into the consistence of good 
 Macadam; the swamp surrounds it, rotting trees 
 of stunted growth; nothing can be conceived more 
 truly dismal. We stopped to look at a stearn engine 
 turning a large wheel with floats like a* steamer s 
 paddles, which forces the water from a lower to a 
 higher level, and this is the way the city is drained, 
 all the drainage running into canals, and being 
 forced from one level to another till it finally 
 reaches the lake. 
 
 We visited the old cemetery, which is Catholic, 
 
372 
 
 and quite French, but few English graves. Even 
 the dead they cannot bury, but build places not 
 unlike ovens, in which the coffins are placed, and 
 then the fronts cemented up, as there is literally 
 no land in which they can dig a grave, so that the 
 dead are kept above ground. The appearance of 
 such a cemetery is most singular, putting one some 
 what in mind of the Columbaria of Rome. We 
 also saw one of the great cotton presses, in which 
 the bales are compressed, before sending them on 
 board ship. Of all parts of the city the most extra 
 ordinary is the Levee, where all the merchandise 
 is collected together. A line of these curious 
 river- steamers, heads on to the Levee, are dis 
 charging their various cargoes, some loaded with 
 cotton, so that the form of the ship is scarcely dis 
 cernible ; others bringing sugar, flour, Indian corn, 
 all the varied products of the thousands of miles 
 that form the water navigation of the Mississippi, 
 Missouri, and Ohio rivers. 
 
 Herbert Shawcross has been very attentive to me, 
 and has done all in his power to show me anything 
 he could. We called to-day to see the Mayor, he 
 was not in, being unwell, but we saw his Secretaiy ; 
 to-morrow morning we shall see him, and have a 
 police-officer at our disposal, to show us the prison 
 which I am anxious to visit. I should have been 
 glad to have left here sooner, but it is always 
 advisable to get a good boat up, and worth waiting 
 a day for; 1 am glad I shall have company. 
 
373 
 
 I shall not stop at any place on the river, 
 but keep steadily on, and shall be glad to feel 
 my face is at last turned homewards. I have not 
 felt very energetic here; I attribute it to the re 
 laxing climate of Cuba, and shall feel different 
 when I get, as I hope soon to do, into a colder and 
 more bracing atmosphere. The people are listless, 
 no one likes the place, but they live here to make 
 money and get away. The city is quite healthy now, 
 I believe, but I can easily understand why yellow 
 fever is so constant a visitor in this city of swamps. 
 The river is very high at present, so that I have no 
 doubt its level above the lower point of the city will be 
 more than twelve feet, which is the ordinary grade. 
 
 ON BOAKD THE " EOBEET J. WARD," 
 MISSISSIPPI ElVEK, 
 
 January 31st, 1858. 
 
 MY DEAR MAMMA, 
 
 ON Thursday morning, by appointment, 
 Shawcross and I went to the City Hall, where we 
 saw the Mayor s Secretary, and from him received 
 a letter to the Sheriff, in order to enable us to 
 
374 
 
 visit the prison. He also put up for me several 
 pamphlets, and reports relating to city affairs, 
 which he kindly sent to the hotel. One of his 
 clerks went with us, to the Sheriff s Officer. 
 This great official placed us in charge of a police 
 man, who took us to the prison. On entering, the 
 turnkey said, " I cannot be answerable for your 
 watches or pocket books, in going through." I 
 thought this a somewhat singular statement, not 
 reflecting much credit on the discipline of the 
 establishment. We entered, and found all the 
 prisoners living indiscriminately together, walking 
 about in a large yard, just a kind of place that 
 might have represented a prison a century ago, but 
 totally subversive of our ideas of prison manage 
 ment. Four men were playing a game of whist. 
 "What are they in for?" "Waiting their trial for 
 murder." Two most respectable looking young men 
 were pointed out to me, as in on the same charge. 
 I was relieved to get out of such a den of iniquity 
 and wretchedness I felt it was a disgrace to the 
 country, to allow such holes to exist. There is no 
 question that the administration of the law and of 
 justice is not what it ought to be in some of the 
 States, more especially in those which possess large 
 seaports, receiving every year a great number of 
 emigrants. After leaving the prisons, we visited 
 some slave-auction rooms, and saw some 200 
 negroes for sale. Slave dealers are ever looked 
 upon with feelings of aversion, and no respectable 
 
375 
 
 person will associate with a regular trafficker in 
 human beings, although they may avail themselves 
 of their services when required. I think I made 
 the same observation before, and I find the fact 
 universal. In this place was a very intelligent, free 
 coloured man, who gave me a good deal of informa 
 tion with reference to the individuals for sale, and 
 also of their treatment by some owners. It is most 
 difficult to get at the truth. I believe, however, 
 that the high-minded, educated and humane South 
 Carolinian, would consider any ill-treatment of his 
 negroes as a slur and a stain on his character. I 
 believe that this same feeling prevails, to a vast 
 extent, among slave-holders; that, moreover, just as 
 on our side of the Atlantic, a more proper estimate 
 of the value and dignity of labour prevails than 
 formerly used to be the case, so here a change has 
 taken place in the condition of the slave, and no 
 person who ill-uses one, would be regarded in any 
 other light than a brute, regardless of all human 
 feeling, and would be treated accordingly. Yet it 
 is possible there may be men callous to public 
 opinion men who will disregard all the instincts 
 of human nature, and if such as these become slave 
 holders, they will, in all probability, abuse and 
 over-tax their negroes. Everywhere, the laws for 
 the protection of the slave are stringent, and 
 neighbours can become informers. If a case of 
 cruelty be proved, the master is punished, and the 
 slave taken away from him, and sold to some other 
 
376 
 
 master, so that his former owner may not wreak 
 his vengeance upon him. On the other hand, 
 there are slaves who will not be amenable to 
 any management, who rob and steal, who, in a 
 word, constitute the criminals of the black popu 
 lation. I believe that a large proportion of those 
 who are disposed of by auction are of the above 
 class, except only in those cases where the master 
 has been overtaken with misfortune, and compelled 
 to sell his slaves to pay his debts. 
 
 The separation of families is of rare occurrence, 
 and no child under ten can by law be disposed of 
 separated from its mother. The free negroes 
 in the North are a miserable and degraded race, 
 gradually dying out; they have no care, no fore 
 thought, but exist on, as so many children, becoming 
 paupers and criminals; they do not possess the 
 energy which enables them to provide for them 
 selves and their families. In the South the slaves 
 are multiplying fast; they are free from all care 
 and all anxieties; their work is laid down for them, 
 and when completed they are free to do as they 
 please, certain thatwhen old and incapable there is 
 a home provided for them, on the estate to which 
 they have always been attached, and among those 
 with whom their lives have been spent. That their 
 condition in the North is not owing to the severity 
 of climate, we need only call to mind that in the 
 West Indian Islands, in a tropical climate, they are 
 even worse off than in the free states, and that 
 
377 
 
 these fertile regions have gone almost entirely out 
 of cultivation, because the need of labour is with 
 drawn. It is a position of high and serious respon 
 sibility, to feel that you hold in your own hand the 
 destinies, the welfare, and the happiness of some 
 hundreds of human beings, whether black or white ; 
 that their future depends on you; and above all, 
 that there is another and a higher Power than your 
 own, or any in this world, to which you must give 
 an account of your stewardship. The stewardship 
 of human life, of human souls, is a far more serious, 
 a far higher and weightier duty than the admini 
 stration of goods and chattels, and I can well enter 
 into the feelings of the worthy and the excellent men 
 who, in that position, striving to do as they would 
 be done by, when taunted and upbraided by pseudo- 
 philanthropists, recoil upon themselves, and ex 
 hibit the most intense hatred for the whole 
 abolition North. Firmness and kindness are the 
 two great principles on which the government of 
 all good estates is based, and so completely is the 
 negro character one of passive reflection, that from 
 the character of the negroes you can tell that of the 
 master, and from that of the master you may predict 
 the disposition and conduct of his negroes. Hence 
 the greater the responsibility, and I cannot help 
 thinking that after all, the question of slavery is 
 one that concerns the white man even more than it 
 does the negro. The affections of the negro, 
 if cultivated, are strong, and those affections are 
 
378 
 
 stronger towards the white master, when well 
 treated, than to his own people; nay, even 
 stronger than his animal instinctive love of life. 
 Signor Arrieta told me an instance that once his 
 boiler valves were out of order; he was standing on 
 the boiler at the time, expecting every moment a 
 fearful explosion ; he ordered a negro standing near 
 him to go away to a place of safety, as he felt 
 compelled to stay and do all in his power to prevent 
 an accident. " No, sar," was the reply, "if you die I 
 will die with you." When this love is cultivated 
 by judicious treatment, and the elements of a 
 religious belief, the African becomes one of the 
 happiest beings, in a condition which a white man 
 would hold to be one of absolute degradation, and 
 from which death would be hailed as a release. 
 Unless this particular temperament be properly 
 understood, it is difficult for any person to begin 
 and be a slave-owner. 
 
 When with Mr. Townsend,* we discussed this 
 point together; I had noticed numbers of little 
 darkies going about and after his son, wherever 
 he went. He said, " can any but good feeling 
 spring up between them?" and then added, " I have 
 negroes on my own plantation, brought up with me 
 in the same way, who would lay down their lives 
 for me; what must be my feelings towards them?" 
 He never locks a door in his house; his slaves 
 
 * Mr. Townsend, of Bleak Hall, Edisto Island, at whose residence Mr. 
 John Nicholls spent the last four or five days of 1857. 
 
379 
 
 could have free access to him, if they wished, at 
 any hour, day or night; and yet the Northern 
 abolitionists persist in saying, that the planters 
 are in such fear of their slaves that they lock them 
 in their houses at night, and bolt and bar their 
 own doors, and sleep with revolvers under their 
 pillows. Now, do you wonder at my intense 
 hatred of these liars ? Wherever white labour can 
 be employed it will drive out slavery, so that before 
 many years are over the institution will practically 
 be confined to the extreme South, and the cotton, 
 sugar, and rice plantations; climate itself will form 
 the impassable boundary line, on the temperate 
 side white, on the tropical, negro labour. I see 
 by the papers there is some discussion about 
 introducing coolies into the West Indies; surely 
 the English people will not be so utterly blind as 
 not to perceive, that this would be the revival of 
 the slave-trade in its worst phase. The Asiatics 
 are to be brought over and apprenticed for a term 
 of years; during that period they will be to all 
 intents and purposes slaves. The interest of their 
 temporary owners will be to get as much out of 
 them in the time as possible; their future con 
 dition is no question for them. If they complete 
 their term, it matters not how wretched, how debased 
 they may be, how unable to continue to labour for 
 their own support. If exhausted by toil they will be 
 turned adrift, as there can be no obligation for their 
 future maintenance ; in a word, the machine called a 
 
380 
 
 coolie will cost JC100, and that capital must produce, 
 in the given time, its maximum amount. Contrast 
 that with the condition of the African slave ; wear 
 him out early in life by undue labour, and he 
 remains a burden for the rest of his days; whereas, 
 by judicious management, his period of usefulness 
 will be greatly prolonged. This was exactly what 
 I saw in Cuba. The coolies had to do work which 
 the negroes were exempt from; the consequences 
 were manifest, the latter appeared happier and 
 more comfortable : among the former suicides were 
 frequent, many ran away, and all were more or 
 less discontented. 
 
 February 1st. 
 
 AT five o clock on Thursday evening we went on 
 board the steamer, Eobert J. Ward, which is a fine 
 specimen of the truly magnificent Mississippi boat; 
 she is 310 feet long over all ; her saloon is 256 feet 
 in length, and her width about 50 feet ; height 
 from keel to the top of the pilot-house 60 feet. The 
 fare is excellent, the management more in the res 
 taurant style, one or two long tables, and several 
 small ones. Forwood and I, with a young New 
 Yorker, named Hunter, made a party together, got 
 a table to ourselves, and one man to wait upon us. 
 Herbert Shawcross came to see me off. Before I left, 
 
381 
 
 I saw Mr. Connor, who introduced me to Colonel 
 Preston, brother-in-law of Colonel Hampton, to 
 whom I have a letter. Christopher Hampton is at 
 the plantation. Colonel Preston advised me to stop 
 at Skipwith s Landing, 49 5 miles above New Orleans, 
 As the boat started off, the darkies on board set up 
 a vigorous song, in chorus ; and another steamer, 
 the Vicksburg, came after, she had evidently been 
 waiting to have a race with us. She was a smaller 
 and lighter boat than ours, and in time passed us. 
 But for a little while it was an exciting race we 
 could see them piling the wood on to their fires, 
 and no doubt the same was taking place on our 
 boat, and all steam she could be made to bear was 
 carried. For my own part, I was glad when the race 
 was decided by our rival passing us. As it was just 
 dark, the glare of the fire, the shouts, the hoarse 
 puffing of the steam from the vent pipes, the rapid 
 rush through the water, all contributed to give a 
 good picture of life on this great river. Before tea, 
 I went to wash my hands, when a young man 
 stepped up to me, and said, " Don t you live in 
 Scotland?" I replied, " No." Well, " Were you 
 not at the Hotel des Princes, in Paris, last July?" 
 "Yes. Why, you are not Mr. Seymour, are 
 you ?" " Indeed, I am." You will remember 
 the American we met in Paris, last summer ; 
 this was the said American, to my surprise, 
 thus meeting again on a Mississippi steamer. 
 He was delighted to see me, and only re- 
 
382 
 
 gretted we had not met in New Orleans. He 
 joined our party, and made a comfortable fourth. 
 He is full of fun, and helped us to pass a good 
 time, as they say in this country; another of my 
 extraordinary rencontres. For miles and miles the 
 banks of the Mississippi are low and flat, ever 
 changing by the wash and wear of the great river, 
 which averages a mile to a mile and a half in 
 width, with a current of more than four miles an 
 hour. The scenery is monotonous, but the most 
 wonderful part of all is the accuracy with which the 
 boat is steered day and night ; it requires an 
 apprenticeship of four years to learn the river, and 
 then constant practice to be able to remember the 
 bends, as well as to notice the changes ever 
 occurring in the bed of the river, by the formation 
 of new bars, islands, and fresh channels. The 
 captain is a very kind and polite man, rather like 
 
 the Duke of , wearing, like his Grace, a large 
 
 sandy- coloured beard and whiskers. We spend a 
 good deal of time in the Pilot House, from which 
 we have the best view it is a privilege not often 
 allowed to passengers, but our captain seems quite 
 glad to have us there. In the course of Friday, we 
 stopped once at the river side to take in wood, and 
 went ashore for a run. The engines are high-pressure, 
 of course, each about 600-horse power, and the 
 pressure carried is about 125 to 135 Ibs. on the 
 inch, burning nearly 70 cords of wood in 24 hours, 
 at from three to four dollars a cord. Since then we 
 
383 
 
 have always had a boat come along- side, and towed it 
 with us, until emptied, it then drops down with the 
 current to its own place. We passed Red River 
 and Natchez about nightfall, next day arrived at 
 Vicksburg, where Seymour left us. The captain 
 said he would stay for me at Skipwith s Landing, 
 and enquire if Mr. Hampton was at his place, 
 which is seven miles from the Landing. In the 
 course of the day we took in wood, from a person who 
 seemed so superior a man that I got into conversa 
 tion with him ; curiously enough he was a relation of 
 Hampton s, but did not know whether any of the 
 family were at the plantation or not. He had been 
 educated at West Point military school, had been a 
 filibuster, first with the expedition of Lopez to Cuba, 
 where he was taken prisoner, and afterwards with 
 Walker, to Nicaragua. Now he has some 2,500 acres 
 of land, 150 hands, and is settled down on the river, 
 as a planter, selling his wood off to the steamers, as 
 he clears the land; he said he sold 12,000 dollars 
 \vorth last year. Such is a specimen of a real 
 settler, a man of good education, a little wild in his 
 notions and habits at first, finally taking his place 
 and share in opening out this western country. I 
 found at last that we should not arrive at Skipwith s 
 Landing till ten at night, uncertain, perhaps, whether 
 Mr. Hampton was there or not; set on shore in a 
 pine wood, seven miles from the place, only a small 
 wooden hut at the Landing, so I decided, with 
 regret, that I would not remain, but go with the 
 
384 
 
 steamer the entire route to Louisville. The weather 
 was now much colder. Yesterday, we passed the 
 mouth of the Arkansas river, and at night it became 
 intensely dark, so that we thought at one time we 
 must have lain to all night ; it rained heavily, the 
 rain turned to snow, but somehow we kept on, 
 almost feeling our way with the lead and line. 
 
 This morning the ground was white, we stopped 
 at Memphis, where Hunter left us, so now Forwood 
 and I go on alone. This river rises and falls from 
 its greatest height to its lowest water, 45 feet; 
 imagine the quantity of water that represents a 
 mile and a quarter wide, which will be its average 
 width for 1,000 miles. It looks even wider now 
 than at New Orleans, though we are about 850 
 miles from that city, and 1,000 from the sea. The 
 change in the weather consoled me for not staying 
 at Mr. Hampton s, for it would have been most 
 miserable work in the country such weather as this. 
 A fortnight ago I was suffering from heat in Havana, 
 could not find cool enough things to wear, and now 
 I have on my winter clothes, and my heavy 
 pilot cloth suit ; but the cold suits me far 
 better than the heat. The state rooms on 
 board are extremely comfortable, the berths large, 
 and all very clean. It is curious how one gets 
 accustomed to these boats and their excessive 
 steam pressure; at first there is a feeling of com 
 plete insecurity, you feel each throb of the engines, 
 and start at each puff of steam from the waste 
 
385 
 
 pipes, your sensations are those of sleeping over 
 a powder-magazine in a storm of thunder and 
 lightning, but by degrees it all wears off, and the 
 last two nights I have slept as sound as in bed at 
 home, though above the boilers, and one escape- 
 pipe close to, making more noise than half-a-dozen 
 locomotives puffing together. 
 
 This morning we passed a boat that had run on 
 a sunken wreck in the river, and gone down in 
 shallowish water; the pilot-house and part of 
 Texas, the name given to the officers cabin above 
 the saloon, were above water; her back lay broken, 
 and a more forlorn-looking thing I never saw; no 
 lives lost, as there was so much of her out of water. 
 We see plenty of snags, which are trees that have 
 floated down; their roots in the water then catch 
 fast in the mud; the stream breaks off the 
 branches, and the sharp end of the tree sticks up, 
 just at the right angles for catching any up-river 
 boat, and often runs right through them, making a 
 large leak, and sinking the unfortunate steamer. 
 We have not many passengers, this not being the 
 busy time. We have met a good many boats loaded 
 with cotton, going down stream to New Orleans. On 
 Saturday evening, we stopped to take some one on 
 board from a plantation. On shore they lighted a 
 pine-wood fire, and waved a torch to attract notice; 
 we came to, and a large cresset, filled with lighted 
 pitch-pine, was held on board, to give light; the 
 whole scene was very picturesque, with a number 
 
 of darkies round the fire on shore. 
 B B 
 
386 
 
 OHIO RIVER, 
 
 February 3rd. 
 
 YESTEEDAY, about noon, we reached Cairo, at the 
 mouth of the Ohio, where that river pours its 
 great volume of water into the Mississippi, 1,000 
 miles above New Orleans. Before leaving the 
 Father of Waters, I got a pint bottle, and filled 
 it from the river, so, if no mischance occur to it, 
 I shall bring home, I hope, a bottle of Mississippi 
 water. The Ohio is a more picturesque stream 
 than the greater river, the banks are more elevated. 
 For several days, the only elevations we saw were 
 the Chickasaw Bluffs. The islands are numerous, 
 and well- wooded; in fact, the banks, the entire 
 distance, have been covered with dense forests, 
 except just where some few towns and clearings 
 are situated. We have passed the mouths of the 
 Tennessee and Cumberland rivers, also theWabash 
 and Green rivers, and expect to be at Louis 
 ville in good time to-morrow, proceeding on up 
 the river to Cincinnati. The captain, Captain 
 Millar, is a very agreeable and gentlemanly man, 
 and has given me a deal of information about the 
 river, as have the two pilots also, for we have spent 
 most of our time in the pilot-house, for the sake of 
 the magnificent view. The captain is the proprietor 
 
ssr 
 
 of the boat entirely, except one-eighth share. She 
 cost 80,000 dollars, and her total receipts, last 
 season, amounted to 67,000 dollars for passengers, 
 and 45,000 for freight, 112,000 dollars in all. One 
 of these steamers would be regarded with intense 
 curiosity in Europe, as we have nothing approaching 
 them in build. In former years, the flat boats con 
 veyed all the goods and produce, and they were 
 pushed up the river with poles ; imagine the time 
 and labour to push a boat, heavily loaded, 2,200 
 miles. The boatmen of the Mississippi were then 
 a race peculiar to that river, having no compeers in 
 the world. When steam-boats commenced running, 
 they had to stop and cut their own wood, in the 
 forests, as they went along. It is not very rapid, 
 being seven days in doing 1,500 miles ; and to 
 morrow will be our seventh day from New Orleans. 
 There is, however, no doubt that, risks apart, it is 
 one of the most comfortable modes of travelling in 
 the world; you have plenty of room, good fare, and 
 in the great travelling season, plenty of agree 
 able company. 
 
 We have only one lady on board, and she is a 
 new-married widow, returning from her second 
 honey-moon; she is pretty rich, and her husband 
 is very attentive, he has never left her side all the 
 time, and I really don t think that she has been 
 outside the saloon during the trip. She is, more 
 over, an inveterate talker, and all in that cold prosaic 
 tone that makes me think he will have enough of 
 
388 
 
 her before long. The captain told me he heard her 
 descanting to her second on the merits of her dear 
 departed first how agreeable ! There are, of course, 
 a few gamblers on board ; they have a faro table, 
 but I don t see that any one plays, so they have 
 been doing a little whist and all fours in the 
 cabins, with sundry flats, though I don t think 
 their journey a successful one. 
 
 From Cincinnati I intend to go again for a few 
 more days to Washington, and learn a little more 
 of party politics, then to Baltimore, one day in 
 Philadelphia, leaving me a week in New York, 
 before taking my departure from a country I shall 
 much regret to leave, and which perhaps I may 
 never have an opportunity of revisiting. Therefore 
 it is that I am anxious to spend a few more days 
 in the capital city, where I know so many who 
 readily give me every information I require. 
 
 BURNET HOUSE, CINCINNATI, 
 
 February 5th. 
 
 EARLY in the morning of yesterday, the 4th, we 
 arrived at Louisville, but did not leave the steamer 
 until after breakfast, Captain Millar having invited 
 us to stay and take breakfast with him, before going 
 on shore, as he seemed quite sorry to lose us. No 
 one could have been kinder than he was all the 
 
389 
 
 trip, and as we spent so much time with him and 
 the pilots in the pilot-house, we saw all of the river 
 that was interesting, and I have no doubt the pilots 
 will often quote us as the two Englishmen that 
 went up with them such a trip, and be astonished 
 if every other Britisher they meet does not know 
 us. We drove at once to the Cincinnati boat, and 
 put our traps on board, having about two hours 
 and a half to wait the sailing at noon. 
 
 We went to Captain Millar s office, and he gave 
 me a picture of the E. J. Ward, the only one he 
 had. We then went on board the Cincinnati boat, 
 and arrived here about two this morning. The cap 
 tain politely invited us to stay and breakfast with 
 him ; we wanted, however, to get to our hotel, so, 
 with regret, refused his kind invitation. Arriving 
 at the Burnet-house, about six o clock, it was like 
 getting home again. I got an excellent room, and 
 went to bed, for the last night had been one of 
 considerable disturbance, owing to the frequent 
 stoppage of the boat to land mails, and so forth. 
 
 I know you will be glad to find that I have now 
 done with high -pressure steam boats. I have 
 been 170 hours, and have travelled between 1,650 
 and 1,700 miles on the Mississippi and Ohio rivers, 
 in that time, no small journey, without the 
 slightest accident of any kind, in fact, accidents 
 now are of extremely rare occurrence ; the en 
 gineers employed are steady, careful men, and 
 the pilots know the river so well. I have before 
 
390 
 
 remarked on the wonders of this river naviga 
 tion, that a man should know 1,600 miles of 
 river as well as he knows the way up to bed at 
 night every bend, every sand-bar and shallow, for 
 the entire of that immense distance. One of these 
 pilots, to my surprise, said he had never seen the 
 sea, nor the river below New Orleans, or above St. 
 Louis, and has been twenty years running between 
 New Orleans and Louisville. He asked me, one 
 night, " How long, Mr. Nicholls, do you think 
 you could keep the boat in the river?" meaning, 
 if I were steering. " How long I could keep her 
 up stream ?" I replied, " No longer than it would 
 take me to reach the nearest bank," which reply 
 amused him greatly. 
 
 Mr. Gourdin gave me a second letter to Mr. 
 Talbot Jones. I found him to-day, and he took 
 me to the club and the news-room. It is most 
 intensely cold here, and I feel it rather just now, 
 but a day or two will make me harder again. 
 When we left Havana we had a Mr. Harper 
 on board; he is the great New York publisher, 
 and last evening I found him in the river packet 
 again. He had come up from New Orleans a day 
 or two before me. Being acquainted with several 
 of my friends, both in England and in America, 
 we had a good deal in common to talk about. He 
 invited me to visit their large publishing and print 
 ing place in New York, which I certainly shall do. 
 From the papers I see Mr. Douglas, in Kansas, is 
 
391 
 
 quite the hero at present, and I am glad I have 
 determined to revisit Washington for a few days, 
 that I may see a little more of what is going on 
 there, and get posted (as they say in the States) 
 on this question, which is the great trial of the 
 Buchanan administration, and I think three or 
 four days there will amply repay me for the visit. I 
 may then have the opportunity of attending one 
 of the President s receptions, which had not com 
 menced when I was there before. 
 
 I feel proud when I think that all the wonders 
 achieved here are the result of the energy and spirit, 
 as well as the love of freedom, derived from our 
 own little island. I must say I think it is the 
 only country worth visiting. I don t mean to say 
 that all here is perfect, far from it; but the evils 
 will be corrected, and there is that independence 
 of character and action, which must make a great 
 people in time. 
 
 Up to to-day, from leaving home, I have travelled 
 exactly 12,750 miles more than half the distance 
 round the world. * * * * 
 
392 
 
 BROWN S HOTEL, WASHINGTON CITY. 
 
 February 13*fe, 1858. 
 
 MY DEAH MAMMA, 
 
 MY last letter brought me up to Cin 
 cinnati, and on its receipt all your anxieties about 
 the South, and the dangers of Mississippi boats 
 would be at an end. 
 
 On Saturday I felt as usual after much travelling, 
 so determined to rest and stay quietly till Monday 
 morning, when I rose at half-past four, and started 
 in the train at six, arriving in Washington the next 
 day at noon, having travelled 620 miles in thirty 
 hours. The road is really splendid, the scenery 
 magnificent, especially at Harper s Ferry. I had 
 written for a bedroom, which was kept for me, 
 though the hotel was crammed full, but my friend 
 Stewart had taken care of me. I met a pleasant 
 old gentleman in the train, formerly Governor of 
 Minnesota, with whom I had a deal of chat. I first 
 went to the Capitol, and found Miles, who was glad to 
 see me; on my way down I met Mr. Rice, of Boston, 
 and was glad to meet him. Miles made an appoint 
 ment with me for the evening, and I went into the 
 gallery of the New Hall of Representatives, where 
 
393 
 
 the sittings are now being held. The new is much 
 more commodious than the old hall, and the accom 
 modations for the public very ample indeed. I 
 remained till the house adjourned, and on my way 
 back to dinner I fell in with Mr. Kingsley, of 
 Minnesota, and went with him to his rooms. In 
 the evening Mr. Miles called for me, and we went 
 to the White House, to the President s reception. 
 
 I did not get an opportunity of speaking to the 
 President, but found sufficient amusement in 
 looking at the medley of people in the rooms. In 
 one large apartment there was a band of music, 
 people promenaded about, just as they pleased, and 
 I left about half-past ten. We went late, as Miles 
 was dining out first, and came only on my account. 
 
 I met Mr. B , of Troy, and had a little talk 
 
 with him ; I should not have recognised him if he 
 had not told me who he was. 
 
 Wednesday I spent at the Capitol, and Thursday 
 also. In the evening I dined with Miles; he and 
 Keith, General Bonham, Mr. Garnett, of Virginia, 
 and Banks, the printer of the house, all live to 
 gether, and have a capital mess; Captain Calhoun 
 dined there also, he is a son of the great Calhoun, 
 one of the most distinguished men America ever 
 produced. On Thursday morning I had a chat with 
 General Sam Houston, of Texas ; and a long and 
 interesting conversation with General Quitman, of 
 Mississippi, here at the hotel. I met a Captain 
 Moore, an old Englishman, who is the despatch 
 
394 
 
 agent to the Embassy, and lie introduced me to 
 every one, among the number, to General Blake, 
 an old Indian agent, who has spent almost all his life 
 among the tribes he has left, to-day, for Florida, 
 to go among the Seminoles ; he introduced me to 
 the head of the Indian department, and we dined 
 together yesterday. I asked this gentleman which 
 of the tribes were most true to the noble Indian 
 character ? He told me the Dacotahs were the finest 
 race left on the Continent. Now, not more than 
 350,000 Indians exist in the States. I was also 
 introduced to the reporter for the official paper, the 
 Congressional Globe; Mr. Sutton, the head, is an 
 Englishman, and knew Manchester well. He has two 
 youths, one perhaps twenty-one, the other nine 
 teen, and they do all the reporting for the " Senate;" 
 their organisation is most extraordinary. The 
 enclosed letter is for the " Guardian ;" the infor 
 mation therein contained I have received from 
 members of Congress, such men as the Speaker 
 Orr, General Quitman, Miles, Bonham, Keith, 
 Kingsley, and so on. Of course I give, as I 
 intend, the Southern view of the subject and the 
 fight; I had the story from Keith himself, and 
 Miles, who sits close to him, so that it is perfectly 
 correct. I went up to-day to see them, Miles being 
 poorly, and Bonham and I sat a long long while 
 talking. Both to-day and yesterday it has been 
 snowing heavily, and I see plenty of sleighs already 
 in the streets, with the horses covered with bells, 
 
395 
 
 jingling as they go along. My time has been so 
 devoted to politics, that I have not much to tell you. 
 
 My next letter will he my last from this side of 
 the Atlantic. I am going to say good-bye to my 
 kind friends at Baltimore and Philadelphia; then 
 a few days in New York, to see some of the out 
 skirts of the city, and then home again. I shall 
 be glad to be at home, but I shall ever look upon 
 this trip as the most important to me, the most 
 momentous and interesting I have ever made. I 
 shall leave hundreds of friends behind me ; many 
 that in all human probability I may never see 
 again ; some I do hope to see in England. 
 
 I have been very much interested in reading the 
 account of the Princess Eoyal s marriage. Poor 
 girl, her natural feelings, and those of her mother, 
 were at last too strong for court etiquette. I like 
 them both all the better for it, and I think the 
 whole country will do the same ; it must have been 
 a very affecting scene indeed. 
 
396 
 
 [This letter, which is alluded to in the preceding one, 
 was sent to the " Manchester Guardian? by 
 desire of Mr. John Nicholls, accompanied with a 
 letter to the Editor, requesting its publication. It 
 did not, however, appear, and the M.S. was ulti 
 mately returned.] 
 
 AMERICAN POLITICS. 
 
 WASHINGTON CITY, 
 
 February 13th, 1858. 
 
 SIB, 
 
 AMONG the great questions that have 
 from time to time agitated the political world of 
 the United States, few perhaps have offered sub 
 jects for more serious reflection than those which 
 are connected with the elevation of Kansas from 
 the position of a Territory to the dignity of a 
 Sovereign State. The entire history of Kansas 
 has been from the first one of constant struggle, 
 of fierce excitement, party recrimination, and even 
 bloodshed. After the passage of the Kansas- 
 Nebraska Act, when it became evident that the 
 
people of those two new territories must decide on 
 their own institutions for themselves, without any 
 interference on the part of Congress, and must 
 therefore decide whether slavery should or should 
 not be a fundamental law of the new States, the 
 Northern Abolitionists formed emigrant aid societies 
 for the express purpose of settling the country with 
 free-soil men, to the exclusion of slave-holders. 
 The society of Massachusetts subscribed a capital 
 of five million dollars to carry out these objects; 
 and in order to counteract their influence, large 
 numbers of persons came in from Missouri and 
 other slave states. The resistance was thus first 
 provoked by the Northern men ; and the emigrants, 
 in passing through Missouri, used such strong lan 
 guage in reference to the institutions of that 
 State, that no other result could be expected 
 than the antagonistic position occupied by both 
 parties. The priority of interference, and the 
 persistence of the Northern men, must be borne 
 in mind when we hear the charge of " border 
 ruffianism" brought against the Southern people. 
 
 To the delegates elected to represent the people 
 of Kansas in the Lecompton convention, was con 
 fided the duty of drawing up a constitution for the 
 future government of the State. It matters not 
 now to enter into any discussion as to the mode of 
 election of those delegates. We have heard charges 
 of fraud and violence from the free-soil men, who, 
 however, cannot be said to come into the contest 
 
398 
 
 with clean hands. The fact of their stupendous 
 organisation was there; and if one party can be 
 accused of violence the other is equally open to 
 the charge; and so far as the people were con 
 cerned, their vote appointed the delegates to the 
 Lecompton convention. If numbers refused to 
 vote, they cannot blame those who exercised the 
 franchise because the issue is opposed to their 
 views. The President and his administration have 
 acknowledged the validity of that convention; and 
 at this moment all the influence of Government 
 is exerted to procure the admission of Kansas into 
 the Union, with the constitution agreed upon by 
 the delegates in the Lecompton convention ; under 
 which constitution the new State would come in, 
 acknowledging slavery as a legal institution. The 
 republican party denied the right of the convention 
 to present a constitution to Congress, until they 
 had referred it back to the people for their approval. 
 The slavery clause being the great point at issue, 
 the constitution with, or the constitution without 
 slavery, was the test- question submitted to the people 
 of Kansas, and their vote has pronounced in favour 
 of the admission of their State into the Union as a 
 slave state. 
 
 In the celebrated speech made at the commence 
 ment of the present session by Judge Douglas (a 
 speech which I was so fortunate as to hear), the 
 learned Senator, greatly to the surprise of his 
 Southern Democratic friends, took exception to 
 
399 
 
 the mode in which the Lecompton constitution 
 had been submitted to the people. He contended, 
 that the several clauses of that constitution ought, 
 one by one, to have received the ratification of a 
 popular vote, and not merely the solitary clause 
 relating to slavery. The Senator further denies 
 the right of the Territorial Legislature to summon 
 a convention, without a direct enabling act from 
 Congress, or, in other words, that the convention, 
 as summoned, was not legally empowered to 
 form and offer to the people, any constitution 
 whatever. 
 
 At the time this speech was delivered, the popu 
 lar vote had not been taken, and therefore no 
 application for admission from Kansas was before 
 the House, further than the reference made to it 
 in the President s message. On the second of the 
 present month His Excellency Mr. Buchanan, deli 
 vered his message to Congress on this question, 
 having received from the President of the " Con 
 stitutional Convention of Kansas," a copy of the 
 constitution framed by that body. The subject is, 
 therefore, at this moment, fairly before Congress, 
 and its discussion excites the most serious appre 
 hensions in the minds of the people generally. 
 
 Without entering into any lengthy statements 
 relative to the legality of the Lecompton conven 
 tion, it will be sufficient for me to refer to the 
 celebrated Kansas-Nebraska Act, itself the offspring 
 of Senator Douglas an Act competent to give full 
 
400 
 
 authority to the people of those territories, to form 
 and present such constitutions as may he agreed 
 upon by a majority of the legal electors, without 
 further action on the part of Congress. This act 
 can hardly be considered as providing for the mere 
 organisation of their temporary, territorial govern 
 ments. It looks beyond the territorial states, it 
 provides for the admission of a State ; and in express 
 terms pledges the faith of Government, that it shall 
 be received into the Union, " with, or without 
 slavery, as its constitution may prescribe, at the 
 time of such admission." It also declares the " in 
 tent and meaning of this act" to be, " not to legis 
 late slavery into any territory or state, nor to 
 exclude it therefrom, but to leave the people thereof, 
 perfectly free to form and regulate their institu 
 tions in their own way, subject only to the Con 
 stitution of the United States, and the provisions 
 of this Act." This language is sufficiently clear. 
 It was left to the people, whether directly or by 
 delegations, to decide what should be the organic 
 laws of the new State. The free-soil men in 
 Kansas abstained from voting, therefore judgment 
 has gone by default. It is most unreasonable on 
 their part to expect, that under such circumstances 
 the question shall be referred to them again, be 
 cause they affirm they have a majority, and yet 
 have declined to prove that majority at the ballot- 
 box. The abolition party have organised their own 
 so-called Topeka legislature, directly at variance 
 
401 
 
 with the laws of the United States, and the 
 presence of Federal troops in the territory has been 
 necessary, to restrain the violence of the free-soil 
 men, who, in Lawrence, which is the hot-hed of all 
 the abolition movements in the territory, were in 
 actual insurrection, " involving an open defiance 
 of the laws, and the establishment of an insurgent 
 government in that city." 
 
 Thus we see that if the North accuses the South 
 of undue and improper interference, the South 
 may equally accuse the North of a serious breach 
 of law, and the establishment of a state of anarchy. 
 From the returns which have been received, it is 
 reported that a majority of the State officers elected 
 are free-soil men; the question, therefore, naturally 
 arises, Why should not the North permit the 
 admission of Kansas, without raising any other 
 question, since, if it be true that the anti-slavery 
 men are in the majority, on the re- consideration of 
 the Constitution in 1864, the State may become 
 absolutely free ? Thus it would appear to an 
 outsider, that the contest was one of little moment. 
 This, however, is not the case; Kansas is but the 
 ground on which the North has decided at present 
 to fight the abolition battle, and if there victorious 
 will lay down as a law, that no more Slave States 
 shall be admitted into the Union, thus over-riding 
 the great fundamental principle of State sovereignty, 
 that each State shall decide on its own domestic 
 
 institutions for itself. We in England may not 
 c c 
 
402 
 
 understand how rapidly the abolition party has 
 increased in numerical strength. We regard it, 
 perhaps, too much in the same light as we look 
 upon the advocates of the Maine Liquor Law, 
 persistent, but powerless. In the Presidential con 
 test of 1840, with James G. Birney, of Michigan, 
 as its candidate, it polled 7,000 votes. In 1844, 
 with the same candidate, it polled 62,140 votes. 
 In 1848, with Martin Van Buren as its protege, 
 it polled 296,232 votes; and in 1856, with John C. 
 Fremont as its Presidential candidate, it polled 
 1,341,812 votes. A very important element in 
 this great accession of power, has been derived 
 from the vast numbers of Germans who have 
 come over and settled in the country subsequent 
 to the revolutions of 1848-9. They were at once 
 attracted by the word republicanism, and the idea 
 of freedom for the slave, but at the same time 
 perfectly ignorant of the constitutional history of 
 the country. In addition to the actual professors and 
 advocates of pure abolition doctrines, we must also 
 regard the positions and platform of the republican 
 party. In the Convention held in Philadelphia 
 on the 18th of June, 1856, among the resolutions 
 adopted were the two following : " That we deny 
 the authority of Congress, of a territorial legislature, 
 of any individual, or association of individuals, to 
 give legal existence to slavery in any territory of 
 the United States, while the present Constitution 
 shall be maintained." Resolved, " That the Con- 
 
403 
 
 stitution confers upon Congress sovereign power 
 over the territories of the United States for their 
 government, and that, in the exercise of this 
 power, it is both the right and duty of Congress 
 to prohibit in the territories those twin relics of 
 barbarism polygamy and slavery." 
 
 Such are the views, such the temper of the North, 
 assuming year by year a more menacing attitude, 
 and endeavouring to restrict the power of new 
 States, to provide for their own internal institutions, 
 by placing an absolute veto on slavery. The moment 
 that a Slave State applies for admission, every 
 difficulty that ingenuity can devise is thrown in 
 the way; yet Free States are embraced at once, 
 nay, dragged in without the slightest regard to law 
 or precedent California being a case in point. 
 The opposition to the admission of Kansas is a great 
 party move, to which, to the serious injury of his 
 own future political prospects, Senator Douglas, 
 in an evil hour, has lent himself. With a fair 
 chance of succeeding Mr. Buchanan, the Senator, 
 believing himself secure with the South, where, from 
 his previous able advocacy of State sovereignty, he 
 has been a favourite, has endeavoured, by splitting 
 hairs on Kansas, to curry favour with the North, 
 and now finds that between the two stools he has 
 come to the ground, and signed the death-warrant 
 of his own political advancement. He has most 
 unfortunately divided the democratic party, and 
 thrown upon that section of it which belongs to 
 
404 
 
 the Free States, the onus of either deserting the 
 Southern section, or of standing forward as the 
 advocate of slave institutions, necessarily fatal to 
 its existence and influence on either issue. All 
 this by-play is preparatory to the Presidential 
 campaign of 1860. Mr. Douglas expected to be the 
 nominee of the democratic party; his own move 
 has broken up that party, and strengthened the 
 hands of the republican. We may therefore expect 
 that, at the next election, the democratic party will 
 be defeated, and the republicans will come into 
 power. For the present, on the Kansas question, 
 the administration has been defeated. A propo 
 sition, made in the Lower House, to refer the 
 question to the Committee on Territories, was lost 
 by a majority of one only, and by a majority of 
 three the opposition have referred the consideration 
 of the Lecompton constitution to a special com 
 mittee of fifteen. In the Senate, the subject has 
 been referred to the Committee on Territories, and 
 should that body agree on a bill, it may come 
 down to the Lower House, and be voted upon 
 before the select committee has had any oppor 
 tunity of getting to work, and in all probability, so 
 far as I can at present ascertain, may pass the 
 House of Representatives by a bare majority, as 
 some members now opposed may be reached 
 through administrative influence. Under either 
 result the democratic party will be divided, and 
 the election of 1860 will, in all human probability; 
 
405 
 
 surrender the power into the hands of the North, 
 The policy of the abolition party in relation to the 
 admission of new States is, to throw every obstacle 
 in the way of new Slave States, thus endeavouring 
 to confine slavery to the localities in which it exists, 
 by surrounding them with a cordon of Free States. 
 After Kansas will come Arizna, and New Mexico, 
 each, like Kansas, to be kept " bleeding," to serve 
 the purposes of mere party politics. To this the 
 South is strenuously opposed, and every day the 
 struggle in Congress becomes more and more 
 decidedly sectional. It is no longer party, whether 
 republican or democratic, that divides the two 
 houses, but it is absolutely North versus South. 
 Day by day the breach widens, the abuse of the 
 North has embittered the feelings of Southern men. 
 The constant attacks made by the abolition party 
 on the domestic institutions of the South, have 
 excited an intensity of hatred for the North, which 
 becomes painfully apparent in conversing with 
 people in the Slave States. Not only is the ques 
 tion of slavery a bone of contention between these 
 two grand divisions of the country, but on questions 
 of general policy they are widely separated. Whilst 
 the North clings to high tariffs and protective 
 duties, the interests of the producing South are all 
 on the side of free trade ; but, so long as it remains 
 in a minority, it is compelled to submit to the gross 
 injustice inflicted upon it, by the excessive duties 
 levied on imports, to support and encourage Nor- 
 
406 
 
 them manufactures. Seeking a greater develop 
 ment of the Western country, as an increased 
 market for its productions, the North desires to 
 devote large sums of money, drawn from the Federal 
 treasury, for the purpose of extending railroads 
 which may afford outlets for its own commercial 
 enterprise, at the expense of the Southern con 
 sumer. That the North is not especially scrupulous 
 as to the means exerted to further its own ends, is 
 apparent from the revelations consequent on the 
 bankruptcy of a prominent firm, which at this 
 moment are being the subjects of enquiry before a 
 select committee of the House of Representatives. 
 Constantly seeking a greater centralisation of 
 government in Washington, for the sake of increased 
 patronage, and for political purposes, in opposition 
 to the views of the South, which are strongly on the 
 side of state sovereignty, of free-trade and of direct 
 taxation, the two separate lines of policy are be 
 coming more and more strongly marked, and in 
 effect, no one can witness a debate in the House 
 without remarking the fact to which I have alluded, 
 that all former parties are broken down, and North 
 and South stand now fairly face to face in direct 
 opposition. Such is the position of affairs, a posi 
 tion which excites alarm in the minds of all true 
 lovers of the Union. Should the admission of 
 Kansas under the Lecompton constitution, with 
 slavery, be denied by a vote of the House, so far as 
 I can learn from conversing with many different 
 
407 
 
 members, there is great danger of a serious rupture. 
 I cannot exactly believe in absolute disunion, but 
 I should not be surprised to see the Southern men 
 retire, in a body, from Congress, and hold a 
 Southern democratic convention, which, in all 
 human probability, would advocate the establish 
 ment of a Southern slave-holding confederacy. In 
 fact, I cannot avoid the conclusion, that never since 
 the nullification days of South Carolina, has the 
 union between the two irreconcileable parties of 
 North and South, been so fragile as at the present 
 moment. If, however, as I expect will be the 
 case, Kansas is admitted with the slave clause, the 
 evil day will be postponed, and it will then remain 
 to be seen whether, in 1860, an abolition adminis 
 tration shall be inaugurated, pledged to refuse 
 admission to all new Slave States. Should that be 
 the case, the South will be thoroughly united, and 
 separation will be inevitable. Nothing will, appa 
 rently, satisfy the North, but total abolition 
 doctrines, and their hostility to the South has been 
 ever on the increase from the date of the Missouri 
 compromise to the present time ; and I fear that 
 hostility will never cease, until it has succeeded in 
 sundering that Union, which was effected by the 
 genius of Washington, and cemented in the blood 
 of the patriots of the American Eevolution. 
 
 In the case of a Southern confederacy being 
 formed, we should find how strong are the feelings 
 of attachment to England throughout the South, 
 
408 
 
 and how closely they would desire to be united with 
 the mother country. These feelings are, more 
 over, strengthened hy the great interests of the 
 cotton-growing States, between which and our own 
 district, the connection is of the closest kind. Our 
 industries depend mainly on the cotton- crop of the 
 Southern States, that slave-grown crop, without 
 which our machinery must remain idle, and our 
 working- classes literally starve to death. To us, 
 therefore, the questions assuming such large pro 
 portions in Congress, are of vital consequence. If, 
 however, slavery be a gross injustice, a wrong to 
 the African, no material interests or commercial 
 expediences, can be permitted to outweigh the 
 great principles of right and justice. No one, how 
 ever, can calmly and dispassionately examine the 
 workings of the " domestic institution of the 
 South" for himself, without being convinced that 
 by its means, the African becomes, up to a cer 
 tain point, a civilised being. The influences of 
 Christianity are brought to bear upon him. His 
 affections are cultivated. His physical wants are 
 amply supplied. Statistics prove that the slaves are 
 larger consumers of animal food than any other 
 labouring population in the world. His labour is 
 not great, his hours of relaxation are numerous, 
 and in sickness and old age he has a home provided 
 for him, on the estate to which he belongs, and his 
 declining years are passed among those who 
 have been attached to him for life. In exchange 
 
409 
 
 for these realities, he gives his labour, and his 
 freedom, the latter an unknown quantity in his 
 native Africa, a something which he only learns 
 by coming in contact with the white race. There are 
 certain peculiarities about the negro race, which we 
 do not understand at all in England. We do not 
 realise the fact, that in a state detestable to a white 
 man, the negro is perfectly happy, and the instances 
 of slaves refusing their freedom, are of every-day 
 occurrence. In fact, the African accepts the con 
 dition of servitude mainly from the fact, that he 
 is incapable of self-control, and the exercise of the 
 forethought necessary to enable him to provide for 
 himself, in a free state. The most casual observer 
 must see how degraded, lost, forlorn, is the con 
 dition of nine-tenths of the free blacks in the North, 
 and how utterly wretched, when compared with 
 their enslaved, but comfortable and well-fed 
 brethren at the South. The real fact of the case 
 is this, that negro labour, whether it be slave or 
 free, cannot compete with white labour; and as the 
 latter is in the ascendant at the North, the unpro 
 tected and helpless free negro soon sinks into a 
 deplorable state. Abolitionists may talk as much 
 as they please about negro rights, but no one can 
 observe their treatment of the negro without 
 feeling, that all this talk, this pretended sympathy, 
 is put on for political purposes. The negroes are 
 not permitted to come near a Northern man, to sit 
 in the same car with him, or even to pray to God in 
 
410 
 
 the same hour, unless it be in some place set apart 
 for the coloured race. In the South, the master 
 and the slave take each other by the hand, and 
 receive the sacramental elements from the same 
 minister, and drink from the same cup. In fact, I 
 cannot give a better or a clearer idea, to those who 
 have never seen a well-ordered plantation, than by 
 saying, that the term " domestic institution" most 
 thoroughly explains the relations between the 
 superior and inferior races. We have witnessed the 
 results of wholesale emancipation in our West 
 Indian Islands, and with that example before them, 
 the Southern men cannot see much inducement 
 to enact the same folly at home. There are two 
 important considerations connected with this sub 
 ject. In the first place, certain productions of 
 consequence to man are met with only in 
 tropical regions. Secondly, none but the African 
 or Asiatic can labour in those regions, which are 
 fatal to the white man. Hence, one of two con 
 clusions is inevitable, either the abandonment 
 of these regions, or the employment of these races. 
 Under the rule of Great Britain, the negroes were 
 carried into America, and have prospered and grown 
 there, until they have reached the large number of 
 some four millions. To disturb the present position 
 of things would be, at one blow, to destroy the pro 
 ducing power of those states, and to inflict the most 
 serious injuries on the whole civilised world. Hence 
 we can understand how bitter are the feelings 
 
411 
 
 evoked in the South, by the endeavours of the North 
 to raise up, not only the hostility of other sections 
 of the country against them, but even, at times, to 
 seek to arouse their own slaves to actual rebellion. 
 I am not maintaining that there have never been 
 evils, perhaps cruelties, connected with slavery, 
 but from my own observation I have arrived at the 
 conclusion, that an amelioration has taken place in 
 the condition of the slave, similar to that which has 
 taken place in the condition of the labouring classes 
 all over the world. If the Americans had their 
 hard drivers, we had our children working in coal 
 mines, under the most degraded conditions. Whilst 
 we have legislated for these cases, education and 
 public opinion in America have placed a shield 
 over the negro, which preserves him from all 
 cruelties. In fact, the very idea of the permission 
 of cruelties towards their slaves, is as gross an in 
 sult to the great body of planters, as the accusations 
 of Lord Ashley were to the manufacturers of Lan 
 cashire. Two great principles are combined in 
 protecting the slave from oppression, interest, and 
 humanity, and these operate far more in the 
 Southern States than anywhere else in the world, 
 where capital and labour are brought into mutual 
 relation. Since the suppression of the slave trade 
 in 1808, the slave population has doubled every 
 twenty-six years and four months, and we find the 
 duration of life among the negroes equal to that of 
 the most favoured races in the New or Old World. 
 
412 
 
 These two facts alone, are a sufficient answer to 
 the charge of cruel or improper treatment. I have 
 not the time, nor is this the place, to enter into any 
 examination of slavery as a principle. I merely 
 content myself with recording what I know to be 
 facts, derived from my own observation or from 
 reliable sources, and I cannot avoid the conclusion, 
 that the more thoroughly we become acquainted 
 with the labour question of the Southern States, 
 the more we shall sympathise with those classes, 
 who have been unjustly abused and held up to 
 public scorn, by the Stowes and other extreme 
 partisans of abolition doctrines. 
 
 An incident occurred in the House of Repre 
 sentatives the other evening, which may produce 
 an impression in England, that the members of 
 Congress are somewhat fond of an appeal to force. 
 I have not seen a fair statement of the facts of the 
 case in any of the papers, for the general impression 
 derivable from the reports in the journals would 
 be, that Mr. Keith made an unprovoked assault on 
 Mr. Grow, of Pennsylvania. The sitting had been 
 prolonged to an unusual hour, two in the morning, 
 and the members were all fatigued, as well as 
 irritated by the warfare of tactics which had been 
 going on all day with reference to questions 
 connected with Kansas. Mr. Grow came over 
 to the Southern side of the house, and whilst 
 there some questions were put from the Chair, 
 to which he said he objected. For an oppo- 
 
413 
 
 sition member to speak from the administrative 
 side is a breach of etiquette, and Mr. Keith told 
 him, in plain terms, to leave that side and speak 
 from his own place. Mr. Grow retorted that it 
 was a free hall, whereupon Mr. Keith, excited as 
 well as exasperated, sprang up, and seizing him by 
 the throat, pushed him away. A friend seized 
 Keith, and thrust him back on his desk, but in the 
 meantime the confusion became general, and I 
 believe if it had not been for the place, the scene 
 was ludicrous in the highest degree. One Southern 
 man, flinging up his arms, exclaimed "that the 
 revolution had commenced," and plunged into the 
 melee. The smallest member of the house, Mr. 
 Washburn, of Maine, attacked the biggest man he 
 could find, and feU upon Mr. Craige, who is a 
 giant in size ; an amusing scene was the result, the 
 dwarf not being able to strike so high as his oppo 
 nent s knees, and the giant making unavailing 
 efforts to reach down low enough to touch the 
 little one s head. One member had his wig knocked 
 off, which gave rise to a report that some one was 
 scalped; altogether, wiiilst the scene lasted, the 
 prevailing sound was laughter. Order was restored 
 and the house adjourned. Mr. Keith, at the next 
 sitting, made an ample and gentlemanly apology, 
 which fully satisfied the house and the country, 
 but Mr. Grow made his own position worse by the 
 terms in which he expressed his regret for the 
 occurrence. One fact was very apparent and 
 
414 
 
 suggestive during the fight, the Southern men 
 singled out Northern men, and the Northern men 
 Southern men, as their opponents. The general 
 feeling was one of regret that any exhibition of the 
 kind should have taken place within the walls of 
 the House of Representatives. 
 
 A bill has been introduced into the Senate to 
 provide for an increase of the army by the addition 
 of five new regiments. This measure has been so 
 strongly opposed that it has dwindled down to 
 a proposal to add two companies to fifteen re 
 giments, and it is still very doubtful whether it 
 can pass. 
 
 In connection with the alleged appropriation by 
 Lawrence, Stone and Co. of 87,000 dollars for the 
 purpose of carrying the last tariff through Congress, 
 a constitutional question of some importance has 
 arisen. Fifty-eight thousand dollars were traced 
 directly to the hands of a Mr. Walcott, and when 
 examined before a committee of the House he 
 declined to state what he did with the money. 
 When closely pressed he solemnly declared, that 
 neither directly nor indirectly was any part of it 
 devoted to the purpose of influencing the votes of 
 members, and that the expenditure was entirely 
 private, therefore the House had no right to insist 
 on an inquiry which would compel him to enter 
 into details relating to his own special affairs. 
 The House is not satisfied, but demands a reply; 
 in the meantime Mr. Walcott is in custody of the 
 
415 
 
 Sergeant- at- Arms, and is in consultation with his 
 counsel as to what replies he is bound to furnish, 
 the committee demanding that he shall make a 
 clean breast of the whole transaction, whether it 
 be private or not. Whilst the Kansas question 
 occupies the field, the other suppliant territory of 
 Minnesota awaits the conclusion of the contest, to 
 receive her call to the Union. Her senators and 
 representatives are now in Washington, but I am 
 informed that on account of some rather injudicious 
 expressions of opinion on the part of one of the 
 members elect, with reference to their actions in 
 the Kansas controversy, they are compelled to 
 remain outside the walls of the Capitol, lest in this 
 nice balance of parties a new State should practi 
 cally decide on the admission of another new State 
 to the Union. From all I can learn, the admini 
 stration counts on a majority which will enable it 
 to carry the Lecompton constitution through the 
 house, although the majority may be but smalL 
 The question has now for so long a time monopo 
 lised public attention, that all parties throughout 
 the country, who are really actuated by patriotic 
 motives, desire to see it set at rest, and withdrawn 
 from the political arena for ever. Then the bond 
 fide settlers of the country can model their institu 
 tions to suit their own views and interests, without 
 provoking the interference of any other sections of 
 the country, whether belonging to the North or 
 the South. 
 
416 
 
 I cannot conclude this already lengthy com 
 munication without expressing my own sincere 
 hope, that the clouds at present hanging over the 
 American Union may be dissipated, and that all 
 these perplexing questions may, by mutual con 
 cession, be decided in a conciliatory spirit, for 
 I can conceive nothing more hostile to the 
 developement of liberal opinions throughout the 
 world, than any assumption of an antagonistic 
 position between the two grand sectional divisions 
 of the Southern and Northern States of this great 
 Union. 
 
 I remain, Sir, 
 
 Yours most truly, 
 
 JOHN A. NICHOLLS. 
 
 FAIRY KNOWE, 
 
 February 21st, 1858. 
 
 MY DEAR MAMMA, 
 
 You will see from the address of this, 
 that I am staying, according to my promise, with 
 the Latrobes, before leaving America, and I am now 
 writing my last letter from the New World. I could 
 
417 
 
 not really tear myself away, without again visiting 
 those who have been so kind to me. 
 
 According to arrangement, I came on from 
 Washington, and as the operatic troupe were here, 
 all the fashionables of Baltimore were at the 
 Theatre; so the first evening I went to Barnum s 
 Hotel. At the Theatre, I met most of my kind 
 friends, all so delighted to see me, that it was quite 
 pleasant to be so welcomed. The next day, Old 
 Uncle William looked after my traps, and brought 
 them here by the train ; I drove out with Osrnan, 
 in his buggy, and was met at the door by the 
 whole family, most happy to see me. On Saturday, 
 and, in fact, from Thursday night, it snowed 
 heavily, and so on Saturday morning I went into 
 town with Osman, in his sleigh, the first time in my 
 life I ever had a sleigh ride. He has a most com 
 fortable one ; we were all wrapped up in furs, our 
 two horses covered with sweet- toned bells, and they 
 jingled merrily on our way. In Baltimore we met 
 plenty ; every one that could command the service 
 of a horse mounted something on runners, if only 
 a basket or a box. The motion is easy and plea 
 sant ; you glide over the snow with hardly an effort, 
 but I do not think it would be half the fun it is 
 without the bells. I found they had all heard 
 that Havana had been unhealthy, were in great 
 anxiety on my account, and had written to New 
 Orleans about me, to find out where and how I 
 was. I sincerely hope you did not hear anything 
 
 to make you uneasy. 
 D D 
 
418 
 
 So they have turned us all out at the Athenaeum. 
 Well, I don t care much; in fact, being so long 
 absent, I might expect not to be re-elected, but 
 they seem to have swept out many of the old ones. 
 
 It is quite pleasant to have a good bed to sleep 
 in, and be kept warm and comfortable ; in fact, 
 this rest at Fairy Knowe has done me good, and I 
 am glad that my last letter home should be written 
 from under this kind and hospitable roof. 
 
 I have just received your letter per Baltic. Why 
 so uneasy ? Because you might be quite certain 
 that there was a possibility of one of my letters 
 missing, as well as some of yours have done. I am 
 quite well, never better, but much disturbed at 
 your anxiety. I declare it is a bad thing to write 
 regularly, for then the least irregularity excites 
 anxiety. * * * * 
 
 FINIS. 
 
 Johnson and Rawson, Printers, Manchester. 
 
IB 
 
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 181 
 
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