THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESENTED BY PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID EVERY LADY HER OWN FLOWER GARDENER. BY LOUISA JOHNSON. CONTAINING t SIMPLE AND PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS FOR CULTIVATING PLANTS AND FLOWERS, IN THE NORTHERN AND SOUTHERN STATES. ALSO FLORA S REVEALINGS, HINTS FOR THE MANAGEMENT OF FLOWERS IN ROOMS, &C., WITH BRIEF BOTANICAL DESCRIPTIONS OF PLANTS AND FLOWERS ; THE WHOLE IN PLAIN AND SIMPLE LANGUAGE, EXPRESSLY CALCULATED FOR POPULAR USE. PUBLISHED BY S. BABCOCK, J844. ENTERED, ACCORDING TO THE ACT OF CONGRESS, IN THE YEAR 1842, BY S. BABCOCK, IN THE OFFICE OF THE CLERK OF THE DISTRICT COURT OF CONNECTICUT. SB.405 PREFACE. I HAVE been induced to compile this little work from hearing many of my companions regret that no single book contained a sufficiently condensed and general account of the business of a Flower Garden. " We require," they said, "a work in a small compass, which will enable us to become our own gardener: we wish to know how to set about every thing ourselves, without expense, without being del uged with Latin words and technical terms, and without being obliged to pick our way through multiplied publications, redolent of descriptions, and not always particularly lucid. We require a practical work, telling us of useful flowers, simple modes of rearing them, simply expressed, and free from lists of plants and roots which require expensive methods of preservation. Some of us have gar dens, but we cannot afford a gardener: we like flowers, but we cannot attempt to take more than common pains to raise them. We require to know the hardiest flowers, and to comprehend the general business of the garden, undisturbed by fear of failure, and at the most economical scale of expense. Who will write us such a book?" 1* ,r; ". e "* .>/:* v > -J IV PREFACE. I have endeavored to meet their views ; and my plan of Floricul ture may be carried into effect by any lady who can command tin services of an old man, a woman, or a stout boy. I have omittcc the names of all tender plants ; and I have given a chapter to eacl class of plants, in language as plain as the subject would allow I have avoided technicality ; and I have endeavored to execute my task with a due respect to economy, simplicity, and arrangement I dedicate my work to all of my own sex who delight in flowers, and yet cannot allow themselves to enter into great expense h their cultivation. L. JOHNSON. CONTENTS INTRODUCTION. Pleasures of Gardening How conducive to health Early taste for Gardening in England Pleasure-gardens at Theobalds Gardening for ladies m". "* " " " page 9 12 CHAPTER I. GENERAL REMARKS. Situation for a Flower-garden On improving the soil Aspect and choice of Flowers Monthly Roses Rustic Stages Garden Tools, and Working Dress India-rubber shoes indispensable 1318 CHAPTER II. LAYING OUT. Arrangement of Plants Root-houses Annuals Biennials Pe rennials Planting out beds Amelioration of Soils Monthly Lists of Flowers Destructive habits of Hares and Rabbits, Snails, Earwigs, Mildew and Blight Neatness and Order in dispensable in a well-kept Garden Spring Plants List of Pe rennials 1939 V1 CONTEXTS. CHAPTER III. BULBS AND PERENNIALS. Transplanting Bulbs Advantage of Salt Manures Best arrange ment for choice Bulbs Select Lists Fibrous-rooted Flowers Biennial Their propagation Protection necessary page 40 Gl: CHAPTER IV. ANNUALS. Sowing and gathering Seed Training and trimming Plants- List of Annuals G3 70 CHAPTER V. ROSES AND JASMINES. Poetry of Flowers Varieties of Roses Pyramids Climbing va rieties Insects injurious to the Rose List of Roses Luxu riant appearance of the Jasmine Devices for displaying its beauty 7180 CHAPTER VI. SHRUBS AND EVERGREENS. On Planting Distance between each Various modes of propa gating List of best Garden sorts Pruning - - 8188 CHAPTER VII. MONTHLY NOTICES. Recapitulation of work to be done in each Month - 89 95 CONTENTS. Vll CHAPTER VIII. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. Calendar for the Southern States - - page 96 100 CHAPTER IX. VEGETABLE AND FLOWER GARDEN. Calendar for the Northern States - - - 101 110 CHAPTER X. MANAGEMENT OF PLANTS IN ROOMS. Hints Want of proper light and air Injudicious watering Ex traneous matter collected on the leaves Bulbs 111 113 CHAPTER XL FLORA S REVEALINGS. Lan "a; e of Flowers 114118 CHAPTER XII. Planting Gathering and Preservation of seeds - 119 132 * CHAPTER XIII. THE WEATHER. Clouds Winds Mists Signs of rain, &c. - 133 136 CHAPTER XIV. BOTANICAL EXPLANATIONS. Flowers Inflorescence, or manner of Flowering Classes and or ders Poisonous plantsTo preserve Flowers and Plants 337142 INTRODUCTION. IT has been well remarked, that a garden affords the purest of human pleasures. The study of Nature is interesting in all her manifold combina tions : in her wildest attitudes, and in her artful graces. The mind is amused, charmed, and aston ished in turn, with contemplating her inexhausti ble display ; and we worship the God who crea ted such pure and simple blessings for his crea tures. These blessings are open to all degrees and condition of men. Nature is not a boon bestowed upon the high-born, or purchased by the wealthy at a kingly price. The poor, the blind, the halt, and the diseased, enjoy her beauty, and derive benefit from her study. Every cottager enjoys the little garden which furnishes his table with comforts, and his mind with grateful feel ings, if that mind is susceptible of religous im pressions. He contemplates the gracious Provi dence which has bestowed such means of enjoy ment upon him, as the Father whose all-seeing eye provides for the lowliest of his children ; and who has placed the "purest of human pleasures" within the reach of all who are not too blind to behold his mercy. With this blessed view before his mental sight, the cottager cultivates his little 2 10 INTRODUCTION. homestead. The flowers and fruits of the eartji bud, bloom, and decay in their season, but Nature again performs her deputed mission, and spring succeeds the dreary winter with renewed beauh- and two-fold increase. Health accompanies sim ple and natural pleasures. The culture of the ground affords a vast and interminable field of observation, in which the mind ranges with sin gular pleasure, though the body travels not. It surrounds home with an unceasing interest; do mestic scenes become endeared to the eye and mind ; worldly cares recede ; and we may iruh say "For us kind Nature wakes her genial power, Suckles each herb, and spreads out every flower ! Annual for us, the grape, the rose, renew The juice nectarious, and the balmy dew : For us, the mine a thousand treasures brings ; For us, health gushes from a thousand springs." Etlt. ep. i. ver. 129. The taste for gardening in England, began to display itself in the reign of Edward III., in whose time the first work on the subject was composed by Walter de Henly. Flour-gardening followed slowly in its train. The learned Linacre, who died in 1524, introduced the damask rose from Italy into England. King James I. of Scotland, when a prisoner at Windsor Castle, thus describes its " most faire" garden : "Now was there maide fast by the towris wall. A garden farre, and in the corneris set An herbere green, with wandis long and small Railit about and so with treeis set Was all the place, and hawthorn hedges knet, That lyfe was now walking there forbye, That might within scarce any wight espie , INTRODUCTION. 11 So thick the bowis and the levesgrene Berchudit all, the alleyes all that there were ; And inyddis every herbere might be sene The scharpe grene swete junipere Growing so fair, with branches here and there, That, as it seymt to alyfe without, The bowis spred the herbere all about" The Quair. Henry VIII. ordered the formation of his gar den at Nonsuch about the year 1509, and Leland says it was a " Nonpareil." Hentyner assures us of its perfect beauty, describing one of its marble basins as being set round with "lilac trees, which trees bear no fruit, but only a pleasant smell." The pleasure-gardens at Theobalds, the seat of Lord Burleigh, were a unique, according to the report of Lyson. In it were nine knots exqui sitely made, one of which was set forth in likeness of the king s arms. "One might walk two myle in the walks before he came to an end." Queen Elizabeth was extremely fond of flowers, and her taste ever influenced that of her court. Gillifloweis, carnations, tulips, Provence and musk roses, were brought to England in her reign. William III. loved a pleasaunce or pleasure- garden ; but he introduced the Dutch fashion of laying them out., which is still horrible in our eyes. His queen superintended in person all her ar rangements in the flower-garden, an amusement particularly delightful to her. In those days, " knottes and mazes" were no longer the pride of a parterre, with a due allowance of " pleasant and fair fishponds." Queen Anne remodeled the gardens at Kensing ton, and did away with the Dutch inventions. Hampton Court was also laid out in a more perfect state in her reign, under the directron of Wise. 12 INTRODUCTION. Since that period, flower-gardening has progress ed rapidly ; and the amusement of floriculture has become the dominant passion of the ladies of Grea; Britain. It is a passion most blessed in its effects, considered as an amusemnt or a benefit. Nothing- humanizes and adorns the female mind more surely than a taste for ornamental gardening. It compels the reason to act, and the judgment to observe ; i< is favorable to meditation oif the most serious kind it exercises the fancy in harmless and elegant oc cupation, and braces the system by its healthfu tendency. A flower-garden, to the young and sin gle of my sex, acts upon the heart and affections- as a nursery acts upon the matronly feelings. Ir attaches them to their home ; it throws a powerful charm over the spot dedicated to such deeply inter esting employment ; and it lures them from dwell ing too deeply upon the unavoidable disappoint ments and trials of life, which sooner or later dis turb and disquiet the heart. An amusement which kings and princes have stamped with dignity, and which has afforded them recreation under the toils of government, must be come for ever venerated, and will be sought for by every elegant as well as by every scientific mind. Floriculture ranges itself under the head of female accomplishments in these our days ; and we turn with pity from the spirit which will not find in her " garden of roses" the simplest and purest of pleasures. 13 CHAPTER I. GENERAL REMARKS. IN the laying out of a garden, the soil and situation must be considered as much as the nature of the ground will admit. Let no lady, however, despair of being able to raise fine flowers upon any soil, providing the sun is not too much excluded, for the rays of the sun are the vital principle of existence to all vegetation. The too powerful rays can be warded off by the arts of invention, but we have yet no substitute for that glorious orb. Unless its warm and forcing influence is allowed to extend over the surface of the garden, all flowers wither, languish, and die. Sun and air are the lungs and heart of flowers. A lady will be rewarded for her trouble in making her parterre in the country ; but in large towns, under the influence of coal smoke, shade, and gloom, her lot will be constant disap pointment. She can only hope to keep a few con sumptive geraniums languishing through the sum mer months, to die in October, and show the deso lating view of rows of pots contaning blackened and dusty stems. Many soils which are harsh or arid, are suscep tible of improvement by a little pains. Thus, a stiff clay, by digging well and leaving it to become pulverized by the action of the frost, and then mix- 14 IMPROVEMENT OF SOILS. ing plenty of ashes with it, becomes a fine mould , which I have ever found most excellent for al flowers of the hardier kind. The black soil is the richest in itself, and requires no assistance beyonc changing it about a foot in depth every three years, as a flower-garden requires renewing, if a lady ex pects a succession of handsome flowers. Tho ground should be well dug the latter end of Sep tember or October, or even in November, and if tht soil is not sufficiently fine, let it be dug over a se cond or third time, and neatly raked with a very fine-toothed rake. Stony ground requires riddling well, and grea; care must be taken to keep it neat by picking uj> the little stones which constantly force themselves to the surface after rains. Nothing is so unbe coming as weeds and stones in parterres, where; the eye seeks flowers and neatness. Almost every plant loves sand ; and if that can be procured, it enriches and nourishes the soil, especially for bulbs, pinks, carnations, auriculas, hyacinths, &c. Let it be mixed in the proportion of a third part to the whole. If dead leaves are swept into a mound every autumn and the soap suds, brine, &c. of the house be thrown upon it, the mass will quickly decom pose and become available the following year. It makes an admirable compost for auriculas, &c., mixed with garden or other mould. If the ground be a gravelly soil, the flower gar den should not slope, for stony ground requires all the moisture you can give it, while the sloping sit uation would increase the heat and dryness. A moist earth, on the contrary, would be improved by being sloped towards the east or west. ASPECT FOR FLOWERS. 15 The south is not so proper for flowers, as a glar ing sun withers the tender flowers ; but the north must be carefully avoided, and shut out by a laurel hedge, a wall, or any rural fence garnished with hardy creepers, or monthly roses, which make a gay and agreeable defence. Monthly roses are in valuable as auxiliaries of all kinds. They will grow in any soil, and bloom through the winter months, always give a delicate fragrance, and smiling even in the snow. Monthly roses will ever be the florist s delight : they are the hardiest, most delicate-looking, and greenest-leaved of gar den productions ; they give no trouble, and speedi ly form a beautiful screen against any offensive ob ject. No flower-garden should exist without abun dance of monthly roses. It has often been a disputed point whether flow er-gardens should be intersected with gravel walks or with grass plots. This must be left entirely to the taste and means of the party forming a garden. Lawn is as wet and melancholy in the winter months, as it is beautiful and desirable in summer ; and it requires great care and attention in mowing and rolling, and trimming around the border. Gravel walks have this advantage : the first trouble is the last. They will only require an old woman s or a child s assistance in keeping them free from weeds ; and a lady has not the same fears of taking cold, or getting wet in her feet, during the rains of au tumn and spring. Many females are unequal to the fatigue of bend ing down to flowers, and particularly object to the stooping posture. In this case, ingenuity alone is required to raise the flowers to a convenient height ; and, by so doing, to increase the beauty and pic- 16 RUSTIC STAGES. turesque appearance of the garden. Old barrels cut in half, tubs, pails, &c., neatly painted outside, or adorned with rural ornaments, and raised upor feet neatly carved, or mounds of earth, stand ir lieu of richer materials, such as vases, parape, walls, and other expensive devices, which orna ment the gardens of the wealtby. I have seer these humble materials shaped into forms as pleas ing to the eye, and even more consonant to oui damp climate, than marble vases. They never look green from time, and are renewed at a very trifling expense. A few pounds of nails and the unbarked thinnings from fir plantations, are the sole requisites tovvads forming any device which r, tasteful fancy can dictate ; and a little green pain adds beauty and durability when the bark falls from the wood it protects. I have seen fir balls- nailed on to these forms in tasteful patterns ; and creepers being allowed to fall gracefully over the brims, give a remarkably pleasing and varied ap pearance to the parterre. Where mould is not easily to be procured as, for instance, in towns the tubs or receptacles may be half filled with any kind of rubble only space must be left to allow of two feet of fine mould at the top, which is quite sufficient for bulb ous roots and creepers, &c. These receptacles have one powerful advantage over ground plots : they can be moved under sheds, or into outhouses, during the heavy rains or frosts of winter ; and thereby enable a lady to preserve the more delicate flowers, which would deteriorate by constant ex posure to inclement weather. A lady requires peculiar tools for her light work. She should possess a light spade ; two rakes, one LADIES GARDEN TOOLS. 17 with very fine teeth, and the other a size larger, for cleaning the walks when they are raked, and for raking the large stones from the garden bor ders. A light garden fork is very necessary to take up bulbous or other roots with, as the spade would wound and injure them, whereas they pass safely through the interstices of the fork or prong. A watering-pot is indispensable, and a hoe. Two trowels are likewise necessary : one should be of a tolerable size, to transplant perennial and biennial flower roots ; the other should be pointed and small, to transplant the more delicate roots of anemones, bulbs, &c. The pruning-knife must be always sharp, and, in shape it should bend a little inwards, to facilitate cutting away straggling or dead shoots, branches, &c. The " avroncator" lately so much in request, is an admirable instrument ; but it is expensive, and of most importance in shrubberies, where heavy branches are to be cut away. The Sieur Louis d Auxerre, who wrote a work upon garden ing in 1706, has a sketch of the avroncator of the present day, which he designates as caterpillar shears. A light pair of shears, kept always in good order, is necessary to keep privet or laurel hedges properly clipped ; and a stout, deep basket must be deposited in the tool-shed, to contain the weeds and clippings. These are the only tools absolute ly essential to a lady s garden. I have seen a great variety decorating the wall of an amateur tool- house, but they must have been intended for show, not for use. A real artiste, in whatever profession she may engage, will only encumber herself with essentials. All else is superfluous. 18 LADIES WORKING DRESS. I have reserved two especially necessary recom mendations to the last, being comforts independcrt of the tool-house. Every lady should be furnishe 1 with a gardening apron, composed of stout Ho - land, with ample pockets to contain her prunino- knife, a small, stout hammer, a ball of string, an 1 a few nails and snippings of cloth. Have nothing to do with scissors : they are excellent in the work room, but dangerous in a flower-garden, as the;/ wrench and wound the stems of flowers. Th 3 knife cuts slanting, which is the proper way cf taking off .slips ; and the knife is sufficient for ail the purposes of a flower-garden, even for cutting string. The second article which I pronounce to be in dispensable, is a pair of India rubber shoes, or th i wooden high-heeled shoes called " sabots" by th-3 French. In these protections, a lady may indulge her passions for flowers at all seasons, without risk of rheumatism or chills, providing it does not actually rain or snow ; and the cheering influence of the fresh air combined with a favorite amuse ment, must ever operate beneficially on the mind and body in every season of the year. 19 CHAPTER II. ON LAYING OUT. THERE are many modes of adorning a small piece of ground, so as to contain gay flowers and plants, and appear double its real size. By covering every wall or palisade with monthly roses and creepers of every kind, no space is lost, and unsightly objects even contribute to the genaral effect of a " Plais- aunce." The largest flowers, such as hollyhocks, sunflowers, &c., look to the best advantage as a back ground, either planted in clumps, or arranged singly. Scarlet lychnis, campanula, or any second- sized flowers, may range themselves below, and so in graduated order, till the eye reposes upon a fore ground of pansies, auriculas, polyanthuses, and in numerable humbler beauties. Thus all are seen in their order, and present a mass of superb coloring to the observer, none interfering with the other. The hollyhock does not shroud the lowly pansy from displaying its bright tints of yellow and pur ple ; neither can the sturdy and gaudy sunflower hide the modest double violet or smartly clad ane mone from observation. Each flower is by this mode of planting distinctly seen, and each con tributes its beauty and its scent, by receiving the beams of the sun in equal proportions. If the trunk of a tree stands tolerably free from deep overshadowing branches, twine the creeping 20 THE ROOT HOUSE. rose, the late honeysuckle, or the everlasting pe;i round its stem, that every inch of ground may be come available. The tall, naked stem of the young ash looks well, festooned with roses and honey suckles. Wherever creeping flowering plants can live, let them adorn every nook and corner, stem, wall, and post : they are elegant in appearance, and many of them, particularly clematis, are deli cious in fragrant scent. If flowers are planted in round or square plots, the same rule applies in arranging them. The tall est must be placed in the centre, but I reccomend i lady to banish sunflowers and hollyhocks from her plots, and consign them to broad borders against i wall, or in clumps of three and three, as a scree i against the north, or against any unsightly objec . Their large roots draw so much nourishmeut fron the ground, that the lesser plants suffer, and tho soil becomes quickly exhausted. Like gluttons, they should feed alone, or their companions will languish in starvation, and become impoverished. The wren cannot feed with the vulture. The south end or corner of a moderate flower garden should be fixed upon for the erection of a root house, which is not an expensive undertaking, and which forms a picturesque as well as a most useful appendage to a lady s parterre. Thinnings of plantations, which are every where procured at a very moderate charge, rudely shaped and nailed into any fancied form may supply all that is need ful to the little inclosure ; and a thatch of straw, rushes, or heather, will prove a sure defense to the roof and back. There a lady may display her taste by the beauty of the flowers which she may train through the rural frame-work. There, the moss-rose, the jessamine, the honeysuckle, the con- CLASSES OF FLOWERS. 21 volvulus, and many other bright and beautiful flow ers may escape and cluster around her, as she re ceives rest and shelter within their grateful lattice work. There, also, may be deposited the imple ments of her vocation ; and during the severe weather, its warm precincts will protect the finer kinds of carnations, pinks, auriculas, &c. , which do not bear the heavy rains, or frost of lengthened duration, without injuring the plant. Flowers are divided into three classes : an nuals, biennals, perennials. Annuals are those flowers which are raised from seeds alone, in the spring, and which die in the autumn. They are again divided into three classes ; tender and more curious kinds ; the less tender or hardier kinds ; and the hardiest and common kinds. Biennials are those flowers which are produced by seed, bloom the second year, and remain two years in perfection ; after which they gradually dwindle and die away. Some sorts, however, of the biennials, afford a continuation of plants by offsets, slips, and cuttings of the tops, and by layers and pipings, so that, though the parent flower dies, the species are per petuated, particularly to continue curious double- flowered kinds, as for instance, double rockets, by root offsets, and cuttings of the young flower-stalks ; double wallflowers by slips of the small top shoots ; jdouble sweet-williams by layers and pipings ; and carnations by layers. Perennials are those flowers which continue many years, and are so propagated by root offsets, suckers, parting roots, &c., as will be more fully particularlized under the head of Perennials. 3 22 PLANTING OF BEDS. It has been a debated point among florists, wheth er plots or baskets should be devoted each to a par ticular variety of flower, or receive flowers of dif ferent kinds, flowering at seperate seasons. Thus, many ladies set apart, one plot of ground for ane mones only another plot receives only pansies, and so on. There is much to be said on both sides the question. If a plot of ground is devoted to one variety of flower only, you can give it the appropriate mould, and amuse your eye with its expanse of bright col oring. Nothing is more beautiful than a bed of pansies, or a bed of the bright and glowing scarlet verbina ; nothing can exceed the gay and flaunt , r tints of a bed of tulips, or the rich hues of the lila 3 and the white petunia. A large space of garde; i allows its possessor to revel in seperate beds cf flowers, whose beauty is increased two-fold bv masses ; and from that very space, the eye does not so easily discover the melancholy appearance of one or more plots exhibiting nothing but dark mould, and withered stems, arising from the earlier sorts being out of bloom. But in less spacious gardens, this gloomy and mournful vacuum must be avoided. Every border and plot of ground should exhibit a gay succession of flowers in bloom ; and that object can only be effected by a pretty equal distribution of flowers of early and late growth. As the May flowers droop, the June productions supply their place ; and these, again, are followed in succession till the Golden rod and Michaelmas daisy announce the decadence of the parterre for the year. Yet every flower may be supplied with its favor ite soil, with a little patience and observation. A MONTHLY LIST. 23 light soil suits all descriptions very well ; and I never yet found disappointment in any description of earth which was thoroughly well dug, and dress ed yearly from the mound of accumulated leaves and soap-suds, alluded to in the first chapter. I particularly recommend a portion of sand mixed with the heap. All bulbs, carnations, pinks, auric ulas, ranunculuses, &c., love a mixture of sand. I know no flowers of the hardy class which reject it. Mix sand well into your borders and plots, and you will not fail to have handsome flowers. I subjoin a list of common flowers appertaining to each month, in order to fill the borders with one or more roots of each variety. I do not include the annuals. In this month the following flowers are in blow Single Anemones I Primroses Winter Cyclamens | Winter Hyacinth Michaelmas Daisy Narcissus of the east Hepaticas | Christmas rose Single Anemones Forward Anemones Persian Iris Cpring Crocus FEBRUARY. Single yellow Gilliflower Single Liverwoit Winter Aconite Hepaticas Bulbous Iris Anemones of all sorts Spring Cyclamens Liverwort of all sorts Daffodils Crowfoots Spring Crocus Hyacinths of all sorts Jonquils Yellow Gilliflower Narcissus of several kinds Forward Bear s-ears Forward Tulips Single Primroses of divers colors 24 MONTHLY LIST. Daisies Yellow Gilliflowers Narcissus of all sorts Foward Bear s-ears Spring Cyclamens Crocus, otherwise called Saff ron-flowers Anemones of all sorts Iris Pansies Daffodils Double Liverworts Primroses Honeysuckles Tulips Hyacinths Single Jonquils Crown-Imperial Yellow Gilliflowers, doubl. and single Pasqne -Flowers March Violets Anemones Gilliflowers of all sorts Yellow Gilliflowers Columbines Asphodils Orange, or flame-colored Lilies Cyanuses of all sorts Hyacinths Day Lilies Bastard Dittany Daisies Lily of the valley Mountain Pinks Double Jacea, a sort of Lych nis Pansies Peonies of all sorts Ranunculuses of all sorts Some Irises : as those which we call the Bulbous Iris, and the Chamsc-Iris Italian Spiderwort, a sort of Asphodil Poet s pinks Backward Tulips Julians, otherwise called Eng lish Gilliflowers Snap-dragons of all sorts \Vild Tansies Pinks, otherwise called Lych- I rises [nises Roses Tuberoses Pansies Larkspur Great Daises Climbers Cyanuses of all sorts Foxgloves of all sorts Mountain Lilies Gilliflowers of all sorts Monks -hoods Pinks of all sorts Candy-tufts Poppies Jessamine Spaniah Broom Basils Pinks of the Poets Bee-flowers Sea-hollies MONTHLY LIST. 25 Bell flowers Indian Jacea Great Daises Monks -hoods Pinks Scabiuses NigeUaa Cyclamens Lobel s Catch-flies Lilies of all sorts Apples of Love Comfrey Poppies Snap-dragons Double Marigolds Amaranthuses Hellebore Ox-eyes Foxgloves Wild Poppies Everlastings Roses Dittanies Bindweeds Lilies of St. Bruno Tricolors Squills Motherworts Climbers Oculus Christi Camomile Sunflowers Belvederes Gilliflower? of all sorts Thorn-apple Valerian Oculus Christi, otherwise called Starwort Belvederes Climbers of al! sorts Apples of Love Marvels of Peru Pansies Ranunculuses Double Marigolds Candy-tufts Autumn Cyclamens Jessamines Sunflowers, vivacious and annual Indian Narcissus Foxgloves Cyclamens Passion flowers Everlastings Tuberoses Monks -hood Indian Pinks of all the kinds Bindweed Passve lours Great Daises White Bell-flower Autumnal Meadow Saffron Gilliflowers SEPTEMBER. Tricolors Love-Apples Marvel of Peru Monks -hood Narcissus of Portugal Snap Dragons Oculus Christi 3* Amaryllis Autumnal Narcissus White Bell-flowers Indian Pinks Indian Roses Amaranthus Pansies 26 RABBITS A NUISANCE. Basils Belvederes Great Daisies Double Marigolds Monthly Hoses Tuberoses Passion flower Autumnal Crocus Thorn apple Carnations Ranunculuses planted in May Colchicums Tricolors Oculus Christ! Snap-Dragons Colchicums Autumn Crocus Autumnal Cyclamens Monks hood Indian Pinks Pansies that were sown in August Passion flower Pass velours Double Marigolds Some Pinks Amaryllis Autumnal Narcissus NOVEMBER. Snap-Dragons Double and Single Gilliflow- ers Great Daisies Pansies sown in August Monthly Roses Double Violets Single Anemones of all sorts Winter Cyclamens Foward Hellebore Golden Rod Rabbits are an intolerable nuisance in a flower garden, and in some country places they abound most destructively. A light wire fence about two feet high, closely lattice-worked, or a net of the same height, carried around the garden, is a sure defence Horn these marauders. But where these conveniences are unattainable, there are other modes which answer the purpose, but they require a little trouble and patience. It is the well-known nature of Rabbits and Hares to dislike climbing or entangling their feet ; and very simple inventions deter them from at tempting to gnaw the roots arid the hearts of flowers. They will riot walk upon straw or ashes strewed SNAILS AND EARWIGS. 27 thickly round any plant : they equally dislike a fence of sticks placed around a plot, with bits of white paper or card fastened to each stick ; or a string carried around the sticks a foot or two high. If they cannot creep under a slight fence, they never attempt to leap over it. If a stick is run into the ground close to a plant, and other sticks are slanted from the ground towards that centre, the plant will remain untouched, be the frost of ever so long duration. Snails are disagreeable intruders, but the follow ing method is an exterminating war of short dura tion : Throw cabbage leaves upon your borders over night ; in the morning early, you will find them covered underneath with snails, which have taken refuge there. Thus they are easily taken and destroyed. Earwigs are taken in numbers by hanging galli pots, tubes, or any such receptacle, upon low sticks in the borders over night. In these they shelter themselves, and are consequently victimized in the morning. The gallipots, broken bottles, &c. should be placed upon the stick like a man s hat, that the vermin may ascend into them. Ants are very great enemies to flowers ; but I know no method of attacking them, except in their own strongholds, which I have always done with cruel intrepidity and success. My only plan was to lay open the little ant-hill, and pour boiling water upon the busy insects, which destroyed at once the commonwealth, and the eggs deposited within the mound. In some places ants are extremely large 28 MILDEW AND BLIGHT. aud abundant and tliey quickly destroy the beauty of a flower, by attacking its roots and heart.* Mildew and blight infest roses and honeysuckels. Soap-suds thrown over rose-bushes, heavy water ings with tobacco-water, or the water in which po tatoes have been boiled, is successful in a degree, but the best way is a very troublesome one to per severe in. Pinch every leaf well which curls up, by which you may know a small magot is depos ited therein. By so doing you destroy the germ of a thousand little monsters. Mildew and blight come from the east ; there fore honeysuckles should be sheltered from that aspect ; for as they rise and spread widely, they are not so manageable as a rose-bush. A mass of luxuriant honeysuckles is beatiful to the eye and delicious in fragrance ; but covered with mildew, it is a blackened and miserable object. Mildew, for tunately, does not make its appearance every spring ; but once in four or live years it comes as a plague, to desolate the garden. A great deal may be raked away, if taken oft as soon as it spreads its cobweb over these lovely flowers ; but it should be done without delay. I cannot lay too great stress upon the neatness in which a lady s garden should be kept. If it is not beautifully neat, it is nothing. For this reason keep every plant distinct in the flower-bed ; let every tall flower be well staked, that the wind may * The Emperor Pagonatus, who wrote a treatise upon agriculture, assures us, that to clear a garden of ants, we should burn empty snail shells with storax wood, arid throw the ashes upon the ant-hills, which obliges them to remove. I never tried this method. DEFINITION OF TER.MS. 29 not blow it prostrate ; rake away dead leaves from the beds, and trim every flower-root from discolored leaves, weeds, &c. ; remove all weeds and stones the moment they appear, and clear away decaying stems, which are so littering and offensive to the eye. There is always some employment of this kind for every week in the year. Old iron rods, both large and small, are to be procured cheap at the ironmongers. These old rusty rods, painted green, or lead color, are excel lent stakes for supporting flowers, and do not wear out. The slighter rods are very firm, upright sup porters for Carnations, Pinks, &c., while the taller and larger rods are the firmest and best poles for hollyhocks, sunflowers, and the larger class of plants. Fix the flower stem to its stake with string, or the tape of the bass matting, soaked in water to prevent its cracking, and tie it sufficiently tight to prevent the wind tearing it from its position. Tie the large stems in three places for security. The term Deciduous, applied to shrubs, signifies that they shed their leaves every winter. Herbaceous plants, signify those plants whose roots are not woody, such as stocks, wallflowers, &c. &c. Fibrous-rooled plants, are those whose roots shoot out small fibres, such as Polyanthuses, vio lets, &c. Tuberous-Tooted plants, signify those roots which form and grow into little tubes, such as Anemones, Ranunculuses, &c. 30 PERENNIALS. Perennials are flowers of many years duration ; and they multiply themselves most abundantly bv suckers, offsets, parting the roots, &c. They re quire little trouble beyond taking care to renew th-j soil every year or two by a somewhat plentiful sup ply from the compost heap ; and by seperating thi3 offsets, and parting the roots in autumn, to strength en the mother plant. When the flowers are pa^t and the stems have decayed, then the operation ma ir take place. Choose a showery day for transplant ing the roots, or give them a moderate watering to fix them in their fresh places. When you trans plant a flower root, dig a hole with your trowel suf ficiently large to give the fibres room to lay freeh and evenly in the ground, I have, throughout my little work, laid great, stress upon posessing a heap of compost, ready to apply to roots and shrubs every spring and autumn. Wherever the soil is good, the flowers will bloom handsomely ; and no lady will be disappointed of that pleasure, if a compost heap forms one essen tial, in a hidden corner of the flower garden. If you raise your perennials from seed, sow it in the last week in March, in a bed of light earth, in the open ground. Let the bed be in a genial, warm sit uation, and divide it into small compartments ; a compartment for each sort of seed. Sow the seed thin, and rake or break the earth over them finely. Let the larger seed be sown half an inch deep, and the smaller seed a quarter of an inch. Water the beds in dry weather often with a watering pot, not a jug. The rose of the water- CARNATIONS AND PINKb. 31 ing pot distributes the water equally among the seedlings ; whereas, water dashed upon them from a jug falls in masses, and forms holes in the light earthj besides prostrating the delicate seedling. About the end of May, the seedlings will be fit to remove into another nursery bed, to gain strength till October ; or be planted at once where they are to remain. Put the plants six inches apart, and water them moderately, to settle the earth about their roots. But it is rarely required to sow seed for perennial plants, they multiply so vigorously and quickly of themselves, by offsets ; and cuttings may be made of the flower stalks in May and June in profusion. The double Scarlet lychnis, and those plants which rise with firm flower stems, make excellent cuttings, and grow freely when planted in moist weather. Double Rockets, Lychnidea, and many others succeed well. Carnation and pink seedlings must be taken great care of. They will be ready to plant out about the middle of June, and a3 innumerable varieties spring from sowing seed, they should be planted carefully in a bed by themselves six inches asun der, and they will flower the following year, when you can choose the colors you most approve. Car nations properly rank under the head of biennials ; but pinks are strictly perennial plants, and much has been written upon this hardy and beautiful flower. It comes originally from a temperate cli mate, therefore the pink loves shade ; the fervid sunbeams cause its flowers to languish and droop. You may give them an eastern aspect. Be careful to watch pinks when they are bud ding, and do not allow two buds to grow side by 32 QUALITIES OF PINKS. side. Pinch off the smaller bud, which \voull only weaken its companion. Keep the plants fre 3 from decayed leaves, and gently stir the earth round them occasionally with your small trowel. This operation refreshes them. Stake them neatly, that they may not fall prostrate after rain. If you wish to preserve any particular pink, let it grow in a pot, or upon a raised platform, that it may be placed beyond the reach of hares, rabbits, or poultry, and be more easily sheltered from lon;>- and severe frost or rains in winter, and from tho dry heats ;n summer, either of which destroys tho beauty of the flower. The pots can be sunk in tho ground in fine weather. Do not hide your pinks among larger flowers ; let them be distinctly seen. If you water pinks too much, their roots become rot ten ; and if you suffer them to be to dry, they be come diseased. Beware of extremes. The bes: rule is to keep them just moist. A fine pink should not have sharp-pointed flower leaves ; they shouk be round and even at their edges, and the colors should be well defined, not running one into the other. The flower should be large ; it should pos sess a great many leaves, and form a sort of dome. Piping and slipping is the most expiditious mode of propagating plants from any selected pink. Pa?isics, violets, &c. are very easily propagated by parting the roots when the flowers are past. Pansies are very beautiful flowers; and cuttings of their young shoots will grow very freely if kept moist and shaded for some little time. By refresh ing the soil every year, you insure large flowers. Pansies and violets bloom early in the spring. Hepalicas must be parted like violets. They ap pear so very early in the year, that no garden should SPRING FLOWERS. 33 exist without these gay and modest flowers. The leaves appear after the flower has past away. The Polyanthus blooms among the early tribe. In planting this flower, be careful to insert the roots deep in the soil, so that the leaves may rest upon it, for the roots are produced high upon the stem, and those roots must be enabled to shoot into the soil. The polyanthus, like almost every other flower, loves a good soil, with a mixture of sand. In dividing these fibrous-rooted perennial plants, take only the strong offsets, with plenty of fibres attached to them. Polyanthuses, auriculas, double daisies, double camomile, London pride, violets, hepaticas, thrift, primroses, gentianella, &c., succeed well, taken up and divided in September,, for they will all have done flowering by that time. Indeed all perennial fibrous-rooted plants may be taken up in October, to have their roots parted, and the soil refreshed round them. Peonies, and all knob-rooted plants, should be taken up in October, to part their roots and trans plant them to their intended positions. The saxifrage has very small roots, which are apt to be lost in borders, if not very carefully look ed after. Like the anemone, &c., sift the earth well for them. Dahlias require a word or two upon their cul ture. They love sand, therefore allow them plenty of it, but do not put manure to their roots, which throws them into luxuriant leaf and stem, to the deterioration of the flower. Peat mould is good if you can obtain it, to mix with the sand, as it assists the flower in developing stripes and spots. Train each plant upright, upon one stem only, and give 4 34 SPRING FLOWERS. it a strong stake to support its weight, which soo i succumbs under gusts of wind. Plant them ii open and airy places. When the sterns become black, take them up, seperate the roots, anl plunge them into a box of ashes, barley chaff, cr sand, to protect them through the winter. Plai t them out in May. Dahlias grow from cuttings, which require care and a hot-bed to do well, but they multiply them selves very sufficiently without that trouble. It is a great perfection to see every tall plant in a flower-garden well staked, and trimmed from dead, straggling shoots. Let no branches trail upon the border, but, as in the case of Chrysanthemums, cut away the lowest branches or shoots, that each plant may stand erect and neat in its order, without ii - termeddling in its neighbor s concerns. There will be plenty of employment all through the summer in watching the growth of your plants, in cutting away decayed stems, and trimming off dead leaves. Let nothing remain in the flower s way after the brigh - ness of its bloom has past by; cut off the drooping flower before it runs to seed, which only tends to weaken the other flowers, and leave only the finest flower to produce seed on each plant. Perennials grow remarkably fine always in new ly turned-up ground, but they gradually degenerate, if they are allowed to remain above two years with out replacing the substance they have exhausted in- the soil. Add every year to that substance, by lib eral supplies from the compost heap. Be careful to multiply your supply of jasmines, honeysuckles, &c., by cuttings in their due season. I subjoin a list of the hardier sorts of iibrous- rooted Perennials, eligible to adorn a garden, from HARDY PEREXXIALS. 35 which my readers may stock their borders. At the end of my work, however, I shall add a long list of plants alphabetically arranged. LIST OF HARDV PERENNIALS. Aster, or Starwort Large blue Alpine Common Starwort, or Mi chaelmas Daisy Early Pyrenean Blue Italian Starwort Catesby s Starwort Dwarf narrow-leaved Star- wort Midsummer Starwort Autumnal White Starwort, with broad leaves Tripolian Starwort Divaricated-branched Virginian Starwort, with spiked blue flowers Early blue Starwort Rose Starwort Latest Starwort, large blue flowers New England Starwort Red flowering Apocynum, Dogsbane Red-flowering Orange-coloied Syrian Arum, Italian large-veined leaf Asclepias, Swallow-wort VVhite Yellow Astragalus, Milk-vetch Alysson, VVhite Yellow Violet Borage, the Eastern Bachelor s Button Double Red Double white Double ragged Robin Campanula, or Bell-flower Double blue Double white Double blue, and white nettled-leaved Caltha, Double-flowered Marigold Cassia of Maryland Pinks, double pheasant s eye Dobson Deptford Cob white Red cob White stock Damask Mountain Matted Old man s head Painted lady Clove pink, and many other varieties Slock July-floicer, the Eronip- ton Double Scarlet Brompton Single scarlet Purple VVhite Brompton Queen stock Purple double Striped double Single of each sort Twickenham stock Lichnidea, early blue Spotted-stalked, with pur ple spikes of flowers Virginia, with large umbels 36 HARDY PERENNIALS. Low trailing purple Carolina, with stiff shining leaves, and deeper pur ple flowers Cyanus, broad-leaved Narrow-leaved Lychnis, or Campion Single scarlet lychnis Double scarlet lychnis Catchfly, double flowers Hcpaticas, single white Single blue Single red Double red Double blue Lincria, toad flax Purple Yellow Bee Larkspur Fraxinellti, white Red Ge.ntiania, great yellow Gcntianella, blue Gtobularia, blue daisy Fox-glove, red White Iron colored Perennial Sunflower Double yellow and several other species Cyclamen, red White Goldy Locks Chelone, white Red Lib/ of the Valley, common Double-flowering Solomon s Seal, single Double Filapendula, or Dropwort Columbines, common blue Double red Double white Double striped j Starry, double and single I Early-flowering Canada j Tkulictrum, feathered colum bines ! Pulsatilla, blue Pasqueflowe | Orobus, bitter vetch Saxifrage, double white Thick leaved Purple Veronica, upright blue Dwarf blue Hungarian Blush Golden Rod, many species Valerian, red garden Valerian White garden Rudbekia, American sun flower Dwarf Virginia, with large yellow flowers Dwarf Carolina, with nar row red reflexed petals and purple florets Virginia, with yellow rays and red florets Tall yellow, with purple stalks, and heart-shaped leaves Taller, with yellow flowers and large five-lobed leaves, and those on the stalks single Tallest yellow, with nar rower leaves, which are all of five lobes Pulmonaria, Lungwort Common American Monarda, purple Scarlet i Ephemeron, Spider-wort, or flowers of a day White Blue HARDY PERENNIALS. 37 Jacea, American knapweed Primrose, double yellow Double scarlet White Polyanthus, many varieties Auriculas, many varieties Violets, double blue Double white Double red Russian Banksia Violet the major London-pride, or None-so- pretty Day-lily, red Yellow Fumitory, the yellow White Bulbous-rooted American forked Aconite, Monk s-hood, or Wolf s-bane Blue monk s-hood Yellow White Wholesome wolf s-bane Winter Aconite Hellebore, or Bear s foot Common black hellebore Green-flowered White Hellebore Christmas Rose Geranium, Crane s-bill Bloody crane s-bill Blue Roman Bladder-cupped Daisies, common double red garden daisy White Double variegated Cock s-comb daisies, white and red Hen and chicken, white and red Dahlias, many varieties Peony, double red Double white Double purple Male, with large single flowers Sweet smelling Portugal Double rose-colored Silphium, bastard Chrysan themum Jris,Fleur-de-lis or flags The German violet colored Variegated, or Hungarian, purple and yellow Chalcedonian iris Greater Dalmatian iris- There are several other varieties of Irises, all very hardy and very beautiful plants Cardinal Floicers, scarlet Blue Rocket, double white Balm of Gilead, sweet-scent ed ; must be sheltered in winter. Everlasting Pea Eupatorium, several varieties Eryvgo, blue White Mountain, purple and vio let There are some other va rieties. Snap Dragon, or Calf s snout Red White Variegated Moth Mullein Angelica Asphodellus, King s spear 38 HARDY PERENNIALS. Lupins, perennial, blue-flow- Large yellow-flowered ered Trarlescantia, or Virginia spi- Ononis, Rest-har derwort The Saxifrage is propagated by cuttings and off- sets, which the roots produce abundantly. Tako the offsets and plant them out in August. Th<! double white saxifrage is a beautiful flower, and blooms early in the spring. The pyramidal saxi frage is a very handsome decorative flower, but it must be planted in little clumps to make a showy appearance. October is the busy month for transplanting and removing the offsets of all perennial arid biennial plants. In this month every flower of summer ha* passed away, and the garden is free to receive all new arrangements in its future dispositions. Gold en rod, Michaelmas daisies, everlasting sun-flower, and other branching plants, will require taking up every four years, to part the main root into separate plants, and replace them in the ground again. Peonies, lilies of the valley, fraxinellas, monk s - hood, flag-leaved irises, &c., must be increased or removed when required. All this is most effectu ally done in October. In the same month, finish all that is to be effect ed among the perennial tribe. Campanulas, lych nises, polyanthuses, violets, aconites, cyclamens, gentianella, yellow gentian, double daisies, hepati- cas, saxifrage, &c., must be attended to, and prop agated, by dividng the roots, before October closes. November is the season of fogs, and severe frosts : if a lady is prudent, she will perform all these need ful operations in October, and November will have no alarms for her. All the double-flowering plants, such as double HARDY PERENNIALS. 39 sweet-williams, double rockets, double scarlet lych nis, &c., should be placed in sheltered situations in October, to weather out .the storms of winter. Double flowers are very handsome, and deserve a little care. The most charming little perennial flower which can adorn a lady s garden, is the scarlet verbena, but it is very difficult to preserve through the winter. Its beauty, however, repays the care which may be bestowed upon it. This tender plant the only really tender root which I admit into my work is not only desirable from its fine, full scarlet blos soms, but it blooms from April to November. The scarlet verbena loves a rich, light, dry border or bed, in a sunny situation; they delight also in rock- work, where they have been known to exist through the winter. Plant the roots about six inches apart in the middle of April, and keep pegging down the shoots as they throw themselves along the bed. A profusion of flowers and plants are produced by this means. A bed or border sloping to the south is the best situation for the scarlet verbena. 40 CHAPTER III. BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED FLOWERS PERENNIALS. I SHALL give the bulbous and tuberous-rooted flov- ers a chapter to themselves. They are the earliest treasures of the flower-garden, and deserve especi il notice. There was a period when two hundred pounds was offered for a hyacinth root, and even the enormous sum of six hundred pounds was given for a Semper Augustus tulip, by the Dutch tulip fanciers. But though a few florists are still par ticularly nice with respect to their bulbs, the time is past for paying such splendid prices ; and such an inexhaustible variety offer themselves to our no tice now, that we are somewhat puzzled in making a choice collection. Seed produces immense num bers yearly, and an infinite variety of new colors in each species. The florist is lost in admiration of the magnificent blooms which meet the eye in every flower-garden which is carefully attended to. Bulbs love a mixture of garden soil and sand, well mixed, and dug about two spades deep to lighten it. Break the mould fine, and rake the sur face even. Plant the bulbs four inches deep, and let them be six inches apart, placing the bulb with care into the dibbled hole, and pressing the eartli gently round each. All bulbs should be replanted in September, and taken out of the ground when TRANSPLANTING BULBS. 41 they have done flowering. When the leaves and stems decay, dig them neatly up, in dry weather, with your garden fork; take the offsets carefully from the main root ; spread them out to dry on a mat, and put them in a cool, dry place, to plant again in September. The common bulbs, such as Snowdrops, Crocuses, &c., may be left two or three years untouched ; but at the end of that period take up, to sepa rate the offsets and small roots from the mother plants. You can replant them immediately, taking care to thin the clumps, and seperate each root six inches from its neighbor, that they may rise healthy, and throw out fine blooms. Narcissuses, Jonquils, and Irises, may also re main two years untouched ; but if annually taken up, they will flower finer, and for these reasons : By taking up your bulbs as soon as their leaves and stems decay, it not only allows you to seperate the offsets, which weaken the parent bulb, but it prevents their receiving any damage from long drought, or the equally destructive moisture of heavy rains, which would set them growing again before their time, and exhaust them. The two or three months in which they are laid by contributes to their strength, by allowing them that period of complete rest. The autumn-flowering bulbs, such as the Colchi- cums, the Autumnal Crocus, the yellow Autumnal Narcissus, &c., should be taken up in May or early in June, when they are at rest. Transplant them now if you wish to remove them; part the offsets, and plant them six inches apart. If you keep them out of the ground, put them in a dry, shady place till the middle of July or August, when you must plant them again, to blow in the autumn. 42 PROPAGATION OF Be careful to take up bulbs as soon as the leaves decay. If they are incautiously left in the ground beyond that period, they begin to form the bud for the next year s flowers; and the check of a re moval would injure them. They might produce flowers in due time, but they would be weakly. The little offsets wrll not flower for a year c r two. They may be consigned to a nursery-bed to remain for that time, in order to swell and strengtl - en by themselves. If you wish to procure new varieties from seed, it must be .sown in August. The healthiest flovvei - stalks should be chosen, and deposited in pots cr boxes of fine light earth, for the convenience of ri - moving under shelter in wet or frost. Keep the pots or boxes in the shade during the heats, but as the cold weather advances, remove them to a wann sheltered spot. Litter will shelter them from tlu frost, if you cannot command any other covering. The plants will appear early the following May : they must be kept very clear from weeds, and bo moderately watered in dry weather. These seed lings must be transplanted every summer to be thinned, and placed farther apart from each other, till they blow, when they may be removed into the flower-beds. This method is troublesome, and requires pa tience. Tulip seedlings are seven years beforo they flower, and a lady may find her patience se verely tried in waiting for their blooms. Seven years is a large portion of human life. If you can persevere, however, you will be rewarded by beau tiful varieties of new colors and stripes. Fine tulips should have six leaves, three on the outside and three on the inside, and the former BULBOUS PLANTS. 43 should be broader than the latter. The stripes upon the tulip should also be defined and distinct, not mixing with the ground tints. Hyacinth seedlings are four years before they flower : this is not so harassing a period as the tulip requires ; but every pleasure has its counter balance. If you will have fine flowers, you must wait for them. These bulbs love a sunny situation. The Orchis tribe prefer a moist ground and a northen aspect. Columella says, that when orchis bulbs are sown in autumn, they germinate and bear flowers in April. The Colchicums or narcissus are hardy bulbs, and will grow in any sort of ground ; only the bet ter the soil is, the finer they will flower. The Guernsey Lily and Belladonna will not thrive in the open ground, therefore it is needless to speak of those very splendid flowers. The Lily of the valley, though scarcely to be classed among the lily tribe, is a beautiful flower, and as fragrant as it is lovely. They must be mul tiplied by dividing the roots, which should be part ed with a knife, as they are very intricate : do this in December. Plant them three inches deep in the ground and desturb them as little as you can help, as they do not like to be often moved. They are larger in their flowers when grown in the shade, but they are sweeter in perfume in the sun s full rays. Thin, broad leaves are sufficient shelter to the flowers. All bulbs love salt : be careful, therefore, to throw a portion of commen salt or brine upon your com post heap. My cousin, Cuthbert W. Johnson, Esq., in his " Observations on the Employment of Salt," quotes a passage in a letter addressed to him 44 SALT MANURE. by Mr. Thomas Hogg, the cniment florist, upon the advantages of salt in the cultivation of flowers. I transcribe it here : " From the few experiments that I have tried with salt as a garden manure, T am fully prepared to bear testimony to ts usefulness. In a treatise upon flowers, published about HX years since, I remarked, that the application of salt, and ts utility as a manure, was yet imperfectly understood. Ir is a matter of uncertainty, whether it acts directly as a manure, or only as a kind of spice or seasoning, thereby rendering the soil a more palatable food for plants. " The idea that first suggested itself to rny mind, arose from contemplating the successful culture of hyacinths n Holland. This root, though not indigenous to the country, may be said to be completely naturalized in the neighborhood of Haerlem, where it grows luxuriantly in a deep, sand/, alluvial soil: yet one great cause of its free growth, I con sidered, was owing to the saline atmosphere : this induct d me to mix salt in the compost; and I am satisfied that r-o hyacinths will grow well at a distance from the sea without it. I am also of opinion, that the numerous bulbous tribe of Amaryllisses, especially those from the Cape of Good Hop<;, Ixias, Aliums, which include Onions, Garlic, Shalots, &c., Anemonies, various species of the Lily, Antholyza, Colchi- curn, Crinum, Cyclamens, Narcissus, Iris, Gladiolus, Ranun culus, Scilla, and many others, should either have salt or sea sand in the mould used for them. "I invariably use salt as an ingredient in my compost for carnations; a plant which, like wheat, requires substantial soil, and all the strength and heat of the summer, to bring it. to perfection ; and I believe I might say, without boasting, that few excel me in blooming that flower." Colchicums, the Autumnal Narcissus, Amaryllis, and the Autumn Crocus, should be planted in Au gust, to blow in September and October. Replant all the bulbous tribe by the end of Octo ber, at the latest. Choose a mild, dry day to put, them in the ground, and let each bulb be six or nine inches distance from its companion. All bulbs be come weak by being placed too closely together, the soil becoming soon exhausted. NECESSARY FOR BULBS. 45 Bulbs of the more choice varieties are better at tended to if they can be placed in beds or compart ments by themselves; for they are more easily sheltered from frost and rain when in a body. The eye, also, is more delighted by the beautiful variety en masse. Their favorite soil, too, can be composed and preserved for them more exclusively, unexhausted by the roots of larger plants around them. Some of the commoner sorts can be plant ed out in patches, to add to the gay appearance of the borders, among the spring flowers. Martagons, orange lilies, and bulbs of tall growth, should never be planted among the smaller tribe ; their large bulbs would exhaust, the soil, and weak en the smaller flowers. They look very handsome in borders and plots, placed near or in their centre. LIST OF BULBOUS ASD TUBEROUS-ROOTED FLOWERS. Amaryllis, comprising the an- \ tumnal yellow Karcissus i Spring ditto Crocus vernus, or spring-flow- | ering crocus Common yellow Large yellow Yellow, with black stripes White White, with blue ^tripes Bhre with white stripes Deep blue Light blue White, with purple bottom Scotch, or black and white striped Cream-colored Autumnal flowering Crocus, of the following varie ties: True saffron crocus, with 5 bluish flower and golden stigma, which is the saf fron Common autumnal crocus, with deep blue flowers With light blue flowers Many flowered Snowdrop, the small spring flowering Common single Doulile Leucojum, or great smirmer snowdrop Great summer snowdrop, with angular stalks; a foot high, and two or three flowers in each sheath Taller great snowdrop, with many flowers 46 BULBOUS AND Ornithogalum, or Star of Bethlehem Great white pyramidal, with narrow leaves White, with broadsword- shaped leaves spreading on the ground Yellow Pyrenean, with whitish - green flowers Star of Naples, with hang-j ing flowers Umbellated. producing its flowers in umbels, or spreading bunches, at the top of the stalk Low yellow umbellated Eryfhronium, dens canis, orj dog s tooth RoiHid-leavcd, with red flowers Same, with white flowers j The same, yellow Long narrow-leaved, with purple and with white flowers Grape Hyacinth Purple Blue White Musk hyacinth White Ash-colored Blue feathered hyacinth Purple Musky, or sweet-scented, with full purple flowers The same, with large pur ple and yellow flowers Great African Muscaria. with sulphur-colored flower Fntillaria, chequered tulip Early purple, variegated, j or chequered with white | Black, chequered with y >1- low spots Yellow, chequered with purple Dark purple, with yellow spots, and flowers grow ing in an umbel Persian lily, with tall stall- s, and dark purple flowers growing in a pyramid Blanching Persian lily Corona Jrnpcrialis, crown im perial, a species of F -i- tillaria Common red Common yellow Yellow-striped Sulphur-colored Large-flowering Double of each variety Crown upon crown, or with two whorls of flowers Triple crown upon crow i, or with three tiers of flowers, one above an other Gold-striped leaved Silver-striped leaved Tulip, early dwarf tulip Tall or most common tulip Earlv, vellow and red striped White and red striped White and purple striped White and rose striped Tall, or late flowering, with white bottoms, striped white brown White bottom, striped with violet or black brown White bottoms, striped with red or vermilion Yellow bottoms, striped TUBEROUS-ROOTED FLOWERS. 47 with different colors, called Bizarres Double Tulip, yellow and red White and red Gladiolus, corn flag, or sword lily, common, with sword shaped leaves, and a red dish purple flower rang ed 011 one side of the stalk The same, with white flowers Italian, with reddish flow ers ranged on both sides of the stalk The same, with white flow ers Great red of Byzantium Narrow grassy-leaved, and a flesk-colored flower, with channelled, long, narrow, four-angled leaves, and two bell- shaped flowers on the stalk Great Indian Anemone, wood anemone, with blue flowers White flowers Red flowers Double white Garden Double Anemone, with crimson flowers Purple Red Blue White Red and white striped Red, white, and purple Rose and white Blue, striped and white, Ranunculus, Turkey, with a single stalk, and large double blood-red flower Yellow-flowered Persian, with branching stalks, and large double flowers of innumerable varieties, of which there are, Very double flowers femi. or half double (T.-ie double are most beau tiful, propagated by off sets. ) Pancratium, sea daffodil Common white sea Narcis sus, with manv flowers in a sheath, and tongue- shaped leaves Sclavonian, with taller steins and many white flowers, and sword-sha ped leaves Broad-leaved American, with large white flowers, eight or ten in a sheath Mexican, with two flowers Ceylon, with one flower Holy (Allium,) species of garlic, producing flowers Broad-leaved yellow | Great broad-leaved, with lily flowers Broad leaved, with white flowers in large round umbels Smaller white umbellated | Purple Rose-colored Fumaria bulbosa, or bulbous- rooted fumitory I Greater purple ! Hollow-rooted I American, with a forked flower Narcissus, or daffodil, com mon double yellow daf fodil i Single yellow, with the 48 BULBOUS AND middle cup as long as the j petals White, with yellow cups Double, with several cups, one within another Common white narcissus, with single flowers Double white narcissus Incomparable, or great nonsuch, with double flowers With single flowers Hoop petticoat narcissus, or rush-leaved daffodil, with tire middle cup larger than the petals, and very broad at the brim Daffodil, with white reflex- ed petals, and golden cups White daffodil, with purple cups Polyanthus Narcissus, having many small flowers on a stalk, from the same sheath. Of this are the following varieties: While, with white cups Yellow, with yellow cups White, with yellow cups While, with orange cups White, with sulpimr-color- ed cups Yellow, with orange cups Yellow, with sulphur-color ed cups With several intermediate varieties Autumnal narcissus Jonquil, common single Large single Common double Double, with large round roots Liliinn, the lily, common white lily With spotted or striped flowers With double flowers With striped leaves White lilv, with hanging o<" pendent flowers Common orange lily, with large single flowers With double flowers With stiiped leaves Fiery, bulb-bearing lily, producing bulbs at tl:o joints of the stalks Common narrow leaved Great broad-leaved Many-flowered Hoary Martagon lilv, sometime -t called Turk s-cap, Iron the reflexed position of their flower - leaves. There are many varie ties, and which diffe from the other .sorts of lilies in having the petal* of their flowers reflexed, or turned backward. The varieties are, Common ,red martagon, with very narrow sparsed leaves, or such as grow without order all over the flower stalk Double martagon White Double white White spotted Scarlet, with broad sparsed leaves Bright red, many-flowered, or pompony, with short, grassy, sparsed leaves TUBEROUS-ROOTED FLOWERS. 49 Reddish hairy martagon, with leaves growing in whorls round the stalk Great yellow, with pyra midal flowers, spotted Purple, with dark spots, and broad leaves in whorls round the stalk, or most common Turk s cap White spotted Turk s cap Canada martagon, with yel lowish large flowers spot ted, and leaves in whorls Campscatense martagon, with erect bell-shaped flowers Philadelphia martagon, with two erect bright purple flowers Squill*, sea onion, or lily hya cinth, common lily hya cinth, with a lily root and blue flower Peruvian, or broad-leaved hyacinth of Peru, with blue flowers With white flowers Early white starry hyacinth Blue Autumnal starry hyacinth Larger starry blue hyacinth of Byzantium Purple star-flower of Peru Italian blue-spiked star- flower Asphodel lily. African blue, with a tuberous root Tuberose, or Indian tuberous hyacinth. It produces a small stem three or four feet high, adorned with many white flowers of great fragrance. The varieties are, Fine double tuberose Single tuberose Small flowered Striped leaved Iris buibosa, or bulbous iris, Persian, with three erect blue petals called stand ards, and three reflexed petals called falls, which are variegated, called Persian bulbous ii is, with a variegaled flower Common narrow-leaved bulbous iris, with a blue flower White Yellow Blue, with white falls Blue, with yellow falls Greater broad-leaved bulb ous iris, with a deep blue flower Bright purple Deep purple Variegated Great, with broad and al most plain or flat leaves, with blue flowers Purple Of the above there are many intermediate varie ties Hyaeinth, eastern, with large flowers. Of these there are many varieties, and of which there are in numerable intermediate shades or tints of color. Of double sorts there are Blues Purple blues Affatha blues Whites 50 BULBOUS AND Whites, with yellow eyes Whites, with red eyes Whites, with violet or pur ple eyes Whites, with rose-colored eyes Whites, with scarlet eyes Reds Incarnate, flesh or rose- colored Of single sorts there are Blues, of various shades, as above Whites Reds Hose-colored With many intermediate shades or varieties (Muscaria,) or musk hya cinth Ash-colored White Obsolete purple Great yellow African Grape hyacinth Purple Blue White Red Monstrous flowering, or blue-feathered hyacinth Comosed, or tufted purple hyacinth Amethystine blue hyacinth Nodding, spiked, red hya cinth Non-script, small English hyacinth, or harebells, of the following varieties: Common, with blue flow ers arranged on one side of the stalk White jBell-shaped blue hyacinth, with flowers on every side of the stalk Bell-shaped peach-colored, with flowers on one side of the stalk These are very hardy, pro] - agating by offsets Hyacinth, with a pale pu - pie flower Colchicums in variety Leontice, lion s leaf, large.- 1 yellow, with single foot stalks to the leaves Smaller pale yellow, wit i blanched footstalks tj the leaves Cyclamen, sow-bread, Eurc - pean, or common ai - tunm-flowering, with a purple flower, and angr- lar heart-shaped leaves The same, with a blue i flower The same, with white flou- ers Red spring flowering. T .vit i heart-shaped leaves, mar bled with white Entire white, sweet-smell ing Purple winter -flowering, with plain or circular shining green leaves Purple round-leaved au tumn-flowering Small, or anemone-roofed with flesh-colored flow ers appearing in autumn these plants have large round, solid roots; the flowers and leaves rise immediately from the root. FIBROUS-ROOTED FLOWERS. 51 Corona Regalis, or royal crown ; requires shelter Aconite, the winter Sisyrinc/iium in the winter. AURICULA, RANUNCULUS, ANEMONE. These early and beautiful flowers deserve pecu liar notice, for no garden looks well without them, and their bright tints delight the eye and mind. The commonest kinds are handsome and useful in small clumps, and a little care and trouble will raise superb varieties. The Auricula loves a soil composed of kitchen- garden mould, sand, and cow-dung, well mixed to gether; they also like a cool situation. The seed should he sown in September, and when sown give it a gentle watering. By sowing the seed in pots or boxes, you can remove them from heavy rains, &c., without trouble, and shelter them in the out houses or tool-house. The seed seldom appears under six months, and it has been sometimes a twelvemonth producing itself, therefore be not in despair, but remain patient : these freaks of Nature cannot be accounted for. When they flower, you must single out the plants which bear the finest and most choice blooms, and transplant them into pots filled with the compost above described. The com mon sorts may be planted in the borders, to remain out and shift for themselves. By keeping the fine auriculas in pots, you preserve them through the winter easily, for heavy rains and cutting winds do them harm. You can sink them in their pots during summer in the flower-beds, but let them be shelter ed during the winter, if you wish to preserve the blooms uninjured. Auriculas multiply also by suckers, which grow 52 THE AURICULA AND RANUNCULUS. on their roots. Take off these in February, and plunge them into pots of the mould they like best, to root freely. They will do so in two months. Auriculas should not be to much watered, as it makes them look sickly, and the leaves become yellow. When you pot the auriculas, sink them up to their leaves in the soil, but do not press the mould round the plant, as the flowers bloom finest when the roots touch the sides of the flower pot. The auricula is esteemed fine that has a low stem, a stalk proportioned to the flower, the eye well opened and always dry. The glossy, the velvet, and the streaked auriculas are the most ad mired. The stalk should be decked with many flower-bells, to be handsome and healthy. Take care to pull oft all dead leaves round the plant at all times, that it may appear neat and clean. Neatness is favorable to its perfect growth, as well as decorating it to the eye. The Ranunculus docs not like being mixed up with other flowers, and from this "aristocratic principle," it is always planted in separate knots. This flower loves sun and warmth. The root must be planted in September, to bloom early in the summer, and it delights in a rich moist soil, well dug, and raked soft and fine. When you plant them in beds or pots, they must be sunk two inches deep, and dibble the hole with a round, not pointed, dibble. Place the roots four or five inches apart, in the warmest situation in your garden. By plant ing ranunculuses in pots, you can more easily place them in warm situations, and withdraw them from heavy rains. The more room you give these roots the finer they will grow and blow. If your plots will allow of so doing, let the roots be planted six RANUNCULUSES AND ANEMONES. 53 or seven inches apart. The flowers will repay your care. When ranunculuses in pots have flow ered, remove them from the August rains, or take up the roots, to replant in September. The Ranunculus with the double white flower must not be taken up until September, when it should be taken up quickly, its roots parted, and replanted immediately. The yellow Ranunculus with the rue leaf, pre fers being potted to being planted in beds. The Ranunculus propagates by seed as well as offsets. Sow the seed as you do that of the auricula. The most admired ranunculuses are the white, the golden yellow, the pale yellow, the citron-color ed, and the brown red. The red is the least es teemed. The yellow ranunculus speckled with red, is handsome, also the rose-color with white inside. Great varieties are obtained by seed. The Anemones love a light soil, composed of kitchen-garden mould, and sand, and leaf mould, well mixed, and sifted fine. It should, if possible, be composed a year before it is used; the lighter it is the better for anemones. The seed should be sown in September. The single flowers alone bear seed, which is fit to gath er when it appears ready to fly away with the first gust of wind. As soon as the seed is lodged, and raked smoothly into its fine, light bed, strew the bed over with straw or matting, and give it a good watering. In three weeks the seed will begin to rise, when the straw may be removed. The young plants will flower in the following April. When the roots are to be planted in September, 54 BIENNIAL FLOWERS. sink them about three inches deep, and six inches apart, that they may come up strong and flower well. Make a hole in the ground for them with your finger, and set them upon the broadest side, with the slit downwards. Those anemones planted in September will flow er in March and April, and the roots planted in May, flower in autumn, but the flowers are never so fine. When anemones have done flowering, it requires some care in taking up the roots, in order to part and put them by till the time for replanting arrives. The roots or flaps are so small and difficult to dis tinguish, that the earth should be taken up and laid upon a sieve to be sifted, when the flaps will alone remain behind, or the earth may be deposited upon an open newspaper or cloth, and well rubbed with the hand to feel for the minute, dark-colored flaps, which may easily escape observation. The beauty of this flower consists in its thick ness and roundness, especially when the great leaves are a little above the thickness of the tuft. Choose your seed from the finest single ane mone, with a broad, round leaf. The remaining tuberous-rooted flowers are very hardy. Biennials. Biennial flowers, as the name implies, are plants that exist only two years. They are propagated by seed, rising the first year, and flowering the second. If they continue another year, they are sickly and languid. The double biennials may be continued by cuttings and slips of the tops, as well as by lay-* ers and pipings, though the parent flower dies, but LIST OF HARDY BIENNIALS. 55 they are not so fine. A lady should have a space of ground allotted to hiennial seedlings, so that a fresh succession of plants may be ready to supply the place of those which die away. The seeds should be sown every spring in light, well-dug earth ; the young plants should be kept very clean, and some inches apart from each other ; and they must be finally transplanted in autumn into the beds where they are intended to remain. But there is a great uncertainty as to raising the double flowers ; therefore it is better to make sure- of those you approve by perpetuating them as long as you can, by any root offsets they may throw off; by pipings, cuttings, or by layers, as before noticed. I subjoin a list of the principal and useful biennials. LIST OF HARDY BIENNIALS. Canterbury Bells Blue-flowered While Purple Pyramidal Carnation. All the varieties, somewhat biennial pe rennial. Clary, Purple-topped Red-topped Colutea, ^Ethiopian French Honeysuckle Red White Globe thistle Hollyhocks. Somewhat bien nial-perennial ; all the varieties; always by seed. Lunaria, Moomvort or Hon esty Mallow (Tree) Poppy, Yellow-horned (Che- lidonium glaucum) Rocket, Dame s violet Single white Double white Double purple Single purple Rose Campion Red White Scabius, double Dark purple-flowered Dark-red WLite Starry purple-flowered Starry white Jasged leaved starry Stock Gilliflower Brompton Queen Twickenham I Siccet-iciUiam 56 HARDY BIENNIALS. Common upright tall yel low Small-flowered WM-flower Yellow-flowered Bloody White Double of each Night Stock Petunia White Lilac Red Scarlet Purple Red, white-bordered Party-colored Variegated Painted Lady Double of each Mule, or Mongrel Sweet- william, or Mule Pink Tree mallow (Lavertera ar- borea) Tree Primrose When you make your seedling-bed or nursery, cover it over with straw, or fern, or matting, during frost ; and to prevent the birds pecking up the seeds, it is requisite to protect the bed by strewing light boughs of thorn bushes over it, or fixing a net upon sticks as a covering, till the plants appear. If cats, dogs, or poultry intrude into the flower-garden, it is in vain to hope for enjoyment. Sow your biennial seeds in March, April, or May. I recommend May, because the young plants in that month germ and vegetate quickly, surely, and without requiring defences from the frost. Plant them out in October, with a ball of earth to each root, where they are to remain. The Stock Gilliflowers in particular, having long, naked roots, must be planted out very young, other wise they do not succeed well. Honesty is a very early, rich-flowering biennial, which requires no care; they shed their seed, rise, and flower, without any assistance, in profusion. The only trouble is to weed it out of the beds, that they may not stand in the way of other flowers. Canterbury Bells are handsome flowers, and will bloom a long time if you cut off the bells as they decay. CARNATIONS, 57 The deep crimson Sweet-williams are most es teemed, though every variety looks well. Sweet-williams may be increased by layers and cuttings, which is the only sure way of securing the sorts you like ; for you may sow seed every year, and not one in a thousand will reward you by coming up double. Carnations are the pride of a garden, and de serve great care and attention. The common sorts, which are planted in borders, should have a good rich earth about them, and be treated like the pink ; but the finer sorts should always be potted, to pro tect and shelter the plant from hares, rabbits, heavy rains, and severe frost in the winter. Re fresh the top of the pots with new soil in June, and keep the plants free from decayed leaves. Gently stir the earth round each plant occasion ally ; and as plants in pots require more water than if placed in the ground, let the carnations be gently moistened about every other day during dry weath er. Let the watering take place in the evening ; no flower will endure being watered during the heat of a summer s day. Carnations love sand and salt in proper proportions. The brine which is de posited upon the compost heap, will answer every purpose of salts, (if it be regularly carried out,) without adding common salt : but let this be par ticularly attended to. The cook should deposit her pickle and brine to good purpose upon the compost heap, instead of splashing it down in front of her kitchen door. Let each plant be well staked, and neatly tied to its supporter ; and do not allow two buds to grow side by side upon the same stem, for one will weaken the other. Pinch off the smaller bud. 6 58 HOLLYHOCKS. Carnations love warmth ; therefore give them a sunny aspect to blow in. The seedling plants may be treated like young pinks, but this difference must be observed ; pinks love shade, and carna tions love warmth. A bed of carnations is a beau tiful object. The pots can always be sunk in a border or bed in fine weather. Carnations may be layered, or piped, or slipped for propagation. Water your carnations in pots once a week with lime water, if they appear drooping, for this pro ceeds from a worm at the root ; but the brine will destroy all. insects quickly, when poured upon the compost heap. In propagating double Wall-flowers, take slips of the young shoots of the head : this will perpet uate the double property and color of the flower from which they were slipped. In saving seed for wall-flowers, choose the single flowers, which have five petals or flower leaves. Double flowers have no seed. Water the slips, and keep them shady and moist: they will root by September. Plant your Hollyhocks in September or October, where they are to remain. Hollyhocks are a noble flower, and they love a strong soil. Let a succes sion of these flower plants be attended to in the biennial seed-bed. Keep them some inches apart from each other in the seedling-bed, for they form large straggling roots. The hollyhock looks well in clumps of three, at a good distance apart, in large gardens or shrubberies, but they are some what too overgrown for smaller parterres. Be particular in gathering your seeds on a fine, dry day, and put each sort in a separate brown paper bag till you require them. The very finest BIENNIALS. 59 seedlings are. after all, those which spring near the mother plant from self-sown seed, therefore, when you weed or dig your flower borders, be careful not to disturb any seedlings which may have sprung up. They always make strong, fine blooming plants. Take care of your double-flowering plants in winter. The double wall-flower is hardy enough to exist in the borders, but the other double bien nials deserve to be sheltered, for double flowers are very handsome, and heavy rains, snow, or severe frost, injure them. Take cuttings every year from, them. The Night Stock is tolerable hardy if sheltered during the frost by ashes or litter. The sweetness- after night-fall must recommend it to all lovers of fragrant flowers. PROPAGATING BIENNIALS. Every young lady must become acquainted with the manner of operating upon plants, to preserve the finer sorts, which they may wish to perpetuate. Raising from seed is slow, but it produces infinite variety. You, however, rarely see the same flower produced twice from seed ; therefore you must propagate the biennial and perennial flowers by layers, slips, pipings, and cuttings, if you wish to preserve any particular sorts. To effect layers, prepare some rich, light earth, a parcel of small hooked sticks, or little pegs, and a sharp penknife. Now clear the ground about the plant you are going to layer ; stir the surface well with your trowel, and put a sufficient quantity of the pre- 60 LAYERS AND PIPINGS. pared mould round the plant as will raise the sur face to a convenient height for receiving the layer. Cut off the top of each shoot with your knife, about two inches, and pull off the lower leaves ; then fix upon a joint about the middle of the shoot, arid, placing your knife under it, slit the shoot from that joint, rather more than half way up, towards the joint above it. Now make an opening in the earth, and lay the stem, and slit or gashed shoot, into it, and peg it down ; taking care to raise the head of the shoot as upright as you can, that it may grow shapely; then cover it with the new 7 mould, and press the mould gently round it. Do this by each shoot till the plant is layered that is, till every shoot is laid down. They must be watered often in dry weath er, but moderately, not to disturb or wash away the soil round the layers. In six weeks time, each gashed or slit shoot will have rooted and become a distinct plant. They may be taken away from the old parent stem in September, and dug up with a ball of earth round each root, to be transplanted into the plots or borders where they are to remain. Carnations, pinks, sweet-williams, double wall flowers, &c., are the flowers most deserving of layers. Piping, which belongs almost exclusively to car nations and pinks, is a most expeditious mode of raising young plants. Take off the upper and young part of each shoot, close below a joint, with a sharp knife, and cut each off at the third joint, or little knob ; then cut the top leaves down pretty short, and take off the lower and discolored ones. When you have piped in this way as many as you require, let them stand PROPAGATING BIENNIALS. 61 a week in a tumbler of water, which greatly facili tates their doing well. Indeed, I never failed in any pipings, slips, or cuttings, which I allowed to soak and swell in water previous to planting. When you plant the pipings, let the ground be nice ly dug, and raked very tine ; dibble no hole, but gently thrust each piping half way down into the soft earth, slightly pressing the earth round each, to fix it in the bed. Water them often if the weather is dry, but moderately, just to keep them moist ; and shade them from the hot sun in the day. If pipings are covered with a hand-glass, they root earlier, by three weeks, than those which are ex posed. Laying, piping, and slipping, are done in June and July. The plants will be well rooted, and fit to plant out in October. The operation of slipping is easy. Tear the top shoots of the plant to be so propagated, gently from their sockets ; hold the shoot between your finger and thumb, as near the socket as you can, and it will tear as easily and neatly as you carve the wing of poultry or game. Place the slips in water for a few days previous to planting them, like pipings. They will root in six weeks or two months, if kept shady and moist. Cuttings must be made of shoots of the last year s growth of roses, honeysuckles, &c., and planted in February. Choose the strong shoots, and do not cut them less than six inches long. Cut them with your knife in a slanting direction. Plant them in a shady place, each cutting half way in the ground, which should be cleaned, and well dug and raked, to receive them. Cuttings made in February, will root well by October. 6* 62 PROTECTION FOR CUTTINGS. Cuttings of flower stalks, such as scarlet lychnis, should be done in May, June, and July. Take cut tings from the youngest flower stems, and plant them carefully in nice mould, like pipings. These flower cuttings should be in lengths of four joints each. Covering them with a hand-glass raises them very quickly. They root in two months. When hand-glasses are not to form any part of a lady s arrangements, oil-papered frames are equal ly useful. I have seen very economical and useful frames made of bamboo, in the form of hand-glass es, covered-neatly with glazed white cotton or linen, or horn paper, made by a lady with great celerity and ingenuity ; arid her cuttings and pipings suc ceeded under them admirably. Whatever shelters cuttings and pipings from the rays of the sun, effects a material purpose. Linen is the best shel ter in the world from heat, but oiled or horn paper resists rain better. Dr. Priestly is of opinion that salt water is very efficacious for cuttings, if they are placed in it for a few days previous to planting. He remarks that it is a custom with the importers of exotic plants, to dip cuttings in salt and water, otherwise they would perish on the passage. 63 CHAPTER IV. ANNUALS. ANNUALS, as I have observed before, are flowers that rise, bloom, and die in the same year ; and must therefore be raised from seed every spring. The first class of annuals, being very delicate, and requiring great care, with the constant assist ance of glass frames, I shall not even name, since they do not enter into the nature of my work. I proceed to the second class, which are hardier than the above, though they should be raised in a warm border, and be covered with a hand-glass, if you wish them to flower in good time. The ten weeks Stocks will grow, if sown in a warm border, towards the end of March, and should be afterwards transplanted ; but if brought up in a hot-bed, they will flower a month or six weeks earlier. The China-aster, Chrysanthemum, white and purple Sultan, African and French Marigolds, Per- sicarias, &c., will grow well in a warm border of natural earth, if sown in April ; but they also flow er a month earlier if they are assisted by a hot-bed or glass. These annuals must be all planted out when tolerably strong, into the spots where they are destined to remain in the borders, taking care to allow each plant plenty of space, that they may not crowd each other. The China-aster branches 64 SOWING ANXUALS, into many stems and flowers, therefore they may be planted singly, .or not less than six inches apart. The July flowers, or more commonly called gilli- flowers, become expansive as they increase. They should not be crowded together ; three in a group are quite sufficient, and they should be six inches apart. The same may be said of the stock varie ties. I have ever found the hardy annuals grow fines . by allowing them to become self-sown. The} flower some weeks earlier, and invariably product larger and -brighter flowers. When gathering my flower seeds in August am: September, I allow one half to remain sprinkled over the borders; and the young plants never fail appearing healthy and strong above ground ir, March and April, the months appropriated to sow ing the seed. Thus, my Lavateras, Larkspurs. &c., are in beautiful blow, while the second crop, or seed sown in the spring, are but showing their green heads above the surface. I weed away the superfluous self-sown plants to my taste ; but the birds take care that no one shall be encumbered with superfluity. I have by this means a first and second crop of the same annuals, but the crop of self-sown are far superior. They are up before the heats come on to dry the earth, and dwindle the flower. Dig the ground well with your trowel, and rake it very fine, before you put in the seeds in spring. Annuals love a light, friable soil. All the hardy kinds may be sown in March, each sort in little separate patches, as follows : Draw a little earth off the top to one side, then sprinkle in the seed, not too plentifully, and cover ANNUALS. 65 it again with the drawn-off earth. Half an inch is sufficient depth for small seed. The larger kind, such as sweet-peas, lupins, &c., must be sown an inch in depth. When the plants have been up some time, thin them well. The more space you have, the finer the plants will rise. The hardy annuals will not bear transplanting : they must be left to flourish where they are sown. The large kinds, such as the lavatera or mallow, should only be sown in groups of three plants to gether. The lupin tribe should not exceed five plants in a group. The Convolvulus, also, requires four or five plants only in a group. Water the patches in dry weather moderately, and be careful never to use pump water. If you have no soft water, a tub should be placed in the garden to re ceive rain water; and if, as in towns, pump water must be chiefly used, let it remain a day or two in the tub, to soften in the air and sunshine. The first week in April is the safest period for sowing annuals, as the cutting winds have ceased by that time, and frost is not so much to be appre hended. The soft rains, also, fall in warm showers, to give life and germ to seeds and plants, and they appear in a shorter space of time. Those ladies who live in the vicinity of nursery gardens, have a great advantage over the more re mote flower-fanciers. They can be supplied, at a trifling expense, with all the tender annuals from hot-beds, either in pots, or drawn ready for imme diate transplanting. If you do not raise your own seed, be careful how you purchase your stock, and of whom you receive it. Many seedsmen sell the refuse of many years stock to their youthful customers, and 66 SWEET-PEAS. produce great disappointment. There is one way" of ascertaining the goodness of the seed, which will not deceive. Previous to sowing, plunge yoi r lupin, sunflower, &c., seeds into a tumbler of water : the good seed will sink, while the light and useless part remains floating on the surface. If you grow your own seed, exchange it everf two years with your neighbors. Seeds love chan ^ of soil : they degenerate, if repeatedly grown an 1 sown upon the same spot, particularly sweet-pea. 1 - . .Sweet-peas should be put into the ground earl/ in March,, for they will bear the wind and weather. Make a circle round a pole, or some object to whic i they may cling as they rise; and put the peas ai inch deep, having soaked them previously in water well saturated with arsenic, to guard them from tin) depredations of birds and mice. Add an outer cir- .cle of peas every month, so that a continual bloom may appear. The circle first sown will ripen and pod for seed in the centre, while the outer vines will continue flowering till late in the autumn When you have gathered a sufficient number o v ripe pods, cut away all the pods vvuich may after wards form, with your knife. This strengthens the vines, and throws all their vigor into repeated blooms. Be very careful to throw away the arsenic water upon your heap of compost, and do not put that powerful poison into any thing which may be used afterwards in the house. Soak the peas in a flow er-pot saucer, which is never required for any other purpose, and keep it on a shelf in the tool-house, covered up. Three or four hours soaking will be sufficient. If the wind and frosts be powerful and continued, shelter the peas through March, by cov ering them with straw or matting every evening. ANNUALS. 67 I have got sweet-peas into very early blow by bringing them up in pots in-doors, and transplanting them carefully in April, without disturbing the roots. In doing this, push your finger gently through the orifice at the bottom of the flower-pot, and raise its contents " bodily." Then place the ball of earth and plants into a hole trowelled out to receive it; cover it round gently, and, if the weath er is dry, water it moderately. Ten-weeks stock is a very pretty annual, and continues a long time in bloom. Mignionette is the very sweetest of all perfumes, and should be sown in September for early blowing, and again in March for a later crop. It is always more perfumy and healthy, if dug into the ground in autumn to sow itself. Venus Looking-glass is a very pretty, delicate flower. Indeed, every annual is lovely ; and the different varieties give a gay and rich ap pearance to the flower-garden during the three summer months. The Clarkias are very pretty annuals, with a hundred other varieties lately introduced, and which are all specified in Mrs. Loudon s new work upon annuals. My plan is, to give a general idea of their treatment only, under the classification of hardy annuals, or those annuals which may be nur tured without a hot-bed. Keep your annuals from looking wild and disor derly in a garden, by allotting the smaller kinds their separate patches of ground ; and trim the larger annuals from branching among other flowers. For instance, cut away the lowest branches of the China-aster, the African marigold, &c., and train the plant erect and neatly to a slight rod or stick ; cut away the flowers as they droop, reserving one C3 LIST OF ANNUALS. or two of the finest blooms only for seed ; and et each plant look clean and neat in its own order. By cutting away flowers as they droop, the plant le- tains vigor enough to continue throwing out fre sh flowers for a long period. SECOND. OR LESS TENDER CLASS OF ANNUALS. African marigold, the orange Yellow Straw colored Double of each Double-quilled Frencli marigold, the striped The yellow Sweet-scented China-aster, the double Double purple Double white Double striped Marvel of Peru, the red striped Yellow-striped Long-tubed Chrysanthemum, the double white Double yellow Double-quilled Siccct Sultan, the yellow White Red Indian Pink, double Single Large imperial A Ikekengi Palma Christi, the common Tall red-stalked Smaller green-leaved Smallest Tobacco, long-leaved Virginia Broad-leaved Branching perennial Lore Apple, with red fruit With yellow fruit Gourds, the round, smoc th orange Rock, or warted Pear-shaped yellow Pear-shaped striped Stone-colored Bottle Gourd, some very large, from two or three- lo five or six feet loi g,. and of various shapes Nomordica Balsamina Persicaria Indian Corn, the tall Dwarf Nolana Prostrata, blue Convolvulus, scarlet-flowered Yellow Balsam, or Touch-me- not Capsicum, long red-}) odd ed Long yellow podded Red, short, thick, roundish podded With heart-shaped pods With cherry-shaped fruit, red Cherry-shaped fruit, yellow Basil, the common, or sweet- scented Bush basil Zinnia, red Yellow Amaranthus Tree Amaranthus Prince s feather amaran th us HARDY ANNUALS. 69 Love-lies-bleeding amaran- thns Cunnacorus, yellow Red Chinese hollyhock, the varie gated Ten-week Stock GilUflower The double red Double white Double pnrple White Ten-week Stock, with a wallflower leaf With double and single flowers The double of this sort makes a pretty appear ance The following are hardy annuals, requiring no assistance of artificial heat, but should all be sown in the places where it is designed they shall flower : Adonis Floicer,or Flos Adonis, the red-flowering The yellow Candytuft, the large Puiple White Larkspur, the double rose Double-branched Large blue double Doable white Lupins, the rose Large blue Small blue Yellow White Scarlet Marbled Sunfloicer, the tall double Double dwarf Latatera, red White Poppy, the double tall striped carnation Dwarf-striped Double corn poppy Horned poppy Convolvulus, major Minor Striped White Scarlet Ketmin, bladder Starry Scabious Haickweed, the yellow Purple, or red Spanish Carthamns tinctorius, or saf fron-flower Nasturtium, the large Small Cerinthe major, or great Ho ney-wort Tangier Pea Sweet Pea, the painted lady The purple White Scarlet Winged Pea Crown Pea Nigella, or devil in a bush, the long blue or Spanish The white Oriental mallow, curled Venitian mallow Labels Catchfy, white and red Arbiscus Pimpernel 70 HARDY ANNUALS. Dwarf Lychnis Venus Navel wort Venus 1 Looking glass Virginian Stock Strawberry Spinach Nuli me tangere, or touch me- riot Heart s Ease Snail Plant Large ditto Caterpillar Plant Hedgehog Plant Antirrhinum, snap-dragon,. the annual Nolana, b ue Cyanus, or corn-bottle, the red White . Blue Roman Nettle Bdcidcre, or summer cypress Garden, or common Marigold, ttie com, non single Double orange Double lemon-colored Double lemon-colored ra nunculus marigold Anniial Cape Marigold, \v th a violet and white Hower Mignionclte, or reseda, tie sweet-scented The upright Xeranthenium, or eternal flo v- er, red and white Purple Clan/ Purple Jacubira Drticoccplialum, the purple Blue Capnoi/leSf or bastard fumi tory Ten-iowk Stock GiWjloweis t , in. variety Per sic <tria Tobacco Plant Long-leaved Koun 1-leaved Indian Corn Antcthi/tttca Globe Thistle Clarkias* 71 CHAPTER V. ROSES AND JASMINES. THESE most delicious, most elegant flowers in themselves a garden are worthy of a chapter de voted exclusively to their culture. What cottage exists without its roses twined around the door way, or blooming up its pathway ? What is senti ment without its roses ? What other flower illus trates the beauty and excellence of a loved one ? " Oh ! my love is like the red, red rose, That sweetly blows in June." Every gentle feeling, every exquisite thought, every delicate allusion, is embodied in the rose. It is absurd to say the rose by another name " would smell as sweet." It is not so. Poetry, painting, and music, have deified the rose. Call it " nettle," and we should cast it from our hands in disgust. There are innumerable varieties of roses, fiom the cottage rose to the fairy rose, whose buds are scarcely so large as the bells of the lily of the valley. Mrs. Gore mentions some hundreds of sorts, but such a catalogue is too mighty to insert in my little work. I will name only the well-known hardy kinds, and refer my reader to Mrs. Gore her self for the complete collection. Seed yields such inexhaustable varieties, that a new list will be re quired every ten years. The Damask rose is very useful from its proper ties, as well as its beauty and hardihood. Rose- 72 ROSES. water is distilled from this bright, thickly-blowing flower. The Cabbage rose is the most beautiful, as well as the most fragrant of roses. All others are vari eties of roses, but this grand flower is the " ros 3 itself." It throws out suckers plentifully for propagatin j its kind ; and every two or three years, the root cf each bush will part into separate plants. Cut th 3 roots slanting with a sharp knife as you divicb them. A very small bit of root is suflicient for i rose-bush, as they are hardy in their nature. D :> not move roses oftener than you can help : the/ delight in being stationary for years. In pruning roses of every description, whic i should be effected in January, shorten all the shoots to nine inches only, and cut away all the old wooc , which becomes useless after two or three year.- growth. This treatment ensures fine flowers. Roses love a good soil, as, indeed, what flower does not ? Fresh mould applied to them every two or three years, or manure dug round them annually, preserves them in constant vigor and beauty. Shoots of rose-bushes laid down and pegged liko layers, only without gashing, when the flowers aro in bloom, will root and become plants in the autumn. Pinch off the buds, that they may throw their strength into their roots. Roses are often observed to change their color, which effect proceeds chiefly from bad soil. When this occurs, manure the root of the bush or plant. A clay soil, well dressed with ashes, is the best of all soils for the hardy roses. Moss roses love a cool soil and a cool aspect. They soon fade in a hot sun. ROSES. 73 The origin of this exquisitely beautiful variety, the Moss Rose, is thus fancifully accounted for : The Angel of the flowers, one day, Beneath a Rose Tree sleeping lay, That Spirit to whose charge is given To bathe young buds in dews from heaven. Awaking from his high repose, The Angel whispered to the Rose: " O fondest object of my care, Still fairest found where all are fair, For the sweet shade thou st given to me, Ask what thou wilt, tis granted thee." Then said the Rose with deepening glow, " On me another grace bestow." The Spirit paused in silent thought What grace was there that flower had not! Twas but a moment o er the Rose A veil of moss the Angel throws; And robed in Nature s simplest weed, Could there a flower that Rose exceed ! A pyramid of climbing roses is a beautiful object in a garden, Iron or wooden stakes, twelve feet in height, gradually approaching each other, till they meet at the top, with climbing roses trained up their sides, is a pleasing arid easily constructed ornament. Fancy and taste may range at will in inventing forms to ornament the parterre with roses, Beds of roses, raised pyramidally, have a splendid effect. When the flowers die away in the autumn, the mass may be clipped again into form, with the garden shears, as you would clip a laurel hedge. Standard roses, which are so much in fashion at this time, and which always remind one of a house maid s long broom for sweeping cobwebs, are be yond a lady s own management, as budding is a troublesome business, and very frequently fails. I *vill not, therefore, touch upon this subject. 7* 74 ROSES. The double yellow rose is very elegant. It re quires a western aspect, and even prefers north am" east, but a warm aspect injures its beauty. It loves a good substantial soil, and will not bear much cut ting or removing. Let it alone in its glory, onlj pruning away the old scraggy wood occasionally to strengthen the plant. The monthly rose is also a lover of the north am east. It blooms through the autumn and winter has an evergreen leaf, and loves a strong soil. Ii must be propagated by cuttings, and parting the roots, as it never throws up suckers. Prune away the old wood, and make cuttings in June, July, am August, of. the branches you clear away. Plain the cuttings in loose, moist earth, and do not lc them bud till the following year. Let the cuttings be sunk two joints in the earth, leaving one only exposed. The monthly rose climbs, or creeps. The Austrian briar, or rose, will not flower ii exposed to the south. It bears a rich mass of flowers, yellow outside, and deep red within. Give it an eastern or western aspect. The perpetual, or "four-season" rose, requires a rich soil. The llower buds appearing in June and July should be pinched off, and in winter the plant may be pruned as closely as its hardier compan ions. Place the four-season rose in a sheltered sit uation from winds. Among the hardy climbing roses, the Ayrshire rose is the most useful. Its foliage is rich, and it covers fences, walls, &c.. with astonishing rapidity. It flowers in July. Place it in a warm situation, and it will extend thirty feet in one season. Lady Banks 1 yellow rose is a pretty climber, and flowers early in all situations. So does the Rosa sempervirens. ROSES. 75 Climbing roses will grow luxuriantly under the shade of trees, and form a mass of fragrant under wood in shrubberies. They grow with surprising vigor, if allowed to remain prostrate. Plant these thinly, and lay in the most vigorous shoots, by peg ging them down into the ground. This process in creases the plants rapidly, and gives the gayest possible effect. The Rosa liybrida multiflora is a hardy and rap idly growing rose. It flowers also from June to September. So does the red and crimson Bour- sault, and the Rosa Russeliana. Roses are subject to the green fly, which dis figures their bejauty, particularly the white roses. An excellent remedy for this annoyance is effected by moistening the plant, and then dusting it over with equal portions of sulphur and tobacco dust. Once, on a solemn festal day, Held by the immortals in the skies, Flora had summon d all the deities, That rule o er gardens, or survey The birth of greens or springing flowers, And thus address d the genial powers. "Ye shining graces of my conrtlv train, The cause of this assembly know: In sovereign majesty I reign O er the gay flowery universe below ; Yet, my increasing glory to maintain, A queen I ll choose with spotless honor fair, The delegated crown to wear. Let me your counsel and assistance ask, T accomplish this momentous task." The deities, that stood around, At first return d a murm ring sound ; Then said, "Fair goddess, do you know The factious feuds this must create ? What jealous rage, and mutual hate, 76 ROSES. Among the rival flower? will grow 1 The vilest thistle that infests the plain, Will think his tawdry painted pride Deserves the crown, and, il denied. Perhaps with traitor plots molest your reign." " Vain are your fears," Flora replied; -" Tis fix d, and hear how I ll the cause decide. " Deep in a venerable wood. Where oak.s, with vocal skill indued, Did wotad rous oracles of old impait, Beneath a little hill s inclining side, A grotto s seen, where Nature s art Is exercised in all her smiling pride. " Retired in this sweet grassy cell, A Lovely wood-nymph once did dwell: She always pleased; for more than mortal fire Shone in her eyes, and did her charms inspire, A dryad bore the illustrious nymph, a sylvan was her sire " Chaste, wise, devout, she still obey d, With humble zeal, Heaven s dread commands, To ev ry action ask d our aid, And oft before our altars pray d. Pure was her heart, and undefined her hands. " She s dead, and from her sweet remains The woud rous mixture f would take, This much desired, this perfect flower to make; Assist. uid thus, with our transforming pains, We ll diguify the garden beds, and grace our fav rite plains. Th applauding deities with pleasure heard, And for the, grateful work preuared. A busy face Priapus wore; Vertumnus of the partv too, From various sweets th exhaling spirits drew; While iu full canisters Pomona bore Of richest fruit a plenteous store j ! And Vesta promisee! wond rous things to do. (iay Venus le.d a lively train Of Smiles and Graces; the plump god of wine From clusters did the flowing nectar strain, ,Aud fill d large goblets with his juice divine. ROSES. 77 Thus charged, they seek the honor d shade, Where lived and died the spotless maid, Ou a soft couch of turf the body lay : Th approaching deities passed all around, Prepared the sacred rites to pay In silence, and with awe profound. Flora thrice bovv d, and thus was heard to pray: " Jove, mighty Jove, whom all adore, Exert thy great creating power ! Let this fair corpse be mortal clay no more: Transform it to a tree, to bear a beauteous flower." Scarce had the goddess spoke, when, see, The nymph s extended limbs the form of branches wear, Behold the vvond rous change, the fragrant tree! To leaves was turn d her flowing hair. And rich diffused perfumes regaled the wanton air. Heaven! what new charm, what sudden light, Improves the grot, and entertains the sight! A sprouting bud begins the tree t adorn The large, the sweet vermillion flower is born! The goddess thrice on the fair infant breathed, To spread it into life, and to convey The fragrant soul, and every grace bequeathed, To make the vegetable princess gay. Then kiss d it thrice; the general silence broke, And thus in loud rejoicing accents spoke: "Ye Flowers, at my command, attendant here Pay homage, and your sovereign ROSE revere! j\o sorrow on your drooping leaves be seen, Let all be proud ol sucU a queen, Cjo fit the floral crown to wear, To glorify the day, and grace the youthful year!" Thus speaking, she the new-born fav rite crowned ; The transformation was complete: The deities with songs the queen of flowers did greet. Soft flutes and tuneful iiarps were heard to sound, While now to heaven, well pleased, the goddess flies With her bright tram, and reasceuds the skies. 78 ROSES. The following list of roses will not prove beyond a lady s management, being hardy, and requiring only pruning every January, and giving them a good soil. Prune the white rose-tree very spar ingly, as they do not love the knife. Roscs } early cinnamon Double yellow Single yellow Red monthly White monthly Double white Moss Provence Common Provence Double velvet Single ditto Dutch hundred-leaved Blush ditto Blush Belbic Red ditto Marbled Large royal York and Lancaster Red damask Blush ditto Austrian, with flowers hav ing one side red, and the other yellow White damask Austrian yellow Double musk Royal virgin Rosa mundi, i. e. rose of the world, or striped red rose Frankfort Cluster blush Maiden Blush Virgin orthornless Common red Burnet leaved Scotch, the dwarf Striped Scotch Apple-bearing Single American Rose of Menx Pennsylvania!! Red cluster Burgundy rose Perpetual, or four-season HARDY CLIMBING ROSES. The Ayrshire rose Double ditto Rose hyhrida multiflora Rose Clair Rosa Russeliana Reversa elegans Rosa sempervirens. three sorts Rose ruga Red Boursault Crimson ditto Lady Banks yellow rose JASMINES. Jasmines grow in very irregular forms. Per haps their luxuriant wild appearance constitutes their chief grace. The jasmine is a beautiful JASMINES. 79 screen in summer, wreathing its festoons through trellis work ; and it appears to me that Nature pre sents not, in our colder climes, a more fragrant and beautiful bouquet than a mixture of roses and jas mines. The common jasmine is hardy, and loves a good soil, by which term I mean kitchen garden soil. Trench round the stem occasionally to lighten the earth, and it will grow very freely. Put litter round the jasmine in severe frost ; and if a very rigorous season destroy the branches, the root will be saved, and its shoots in the spring will soon re place the loss. If they shoot out with displeasing irregularity and confusion, take off the least healthy looking branches, and cut away those which grow rumpled, for they only consume the juices of the plant to no purpose. The common jasmine is propagated by layers and slips. The Arabian jasmine is very fragrant, but it does not endure cold, or much heat, therefore an eastern aspect suits it best. If the Arabian jasmine is grown in a large pot or box, it could be placed under cover during frost in the winter months ; but do not place it in a greenhouse, which would be in; the other extreme again. The yellow jasmine may be treated like the com mon jasmine. It is not very fragrant,, but it forms an elegant variety. I have seen very fanciful and beautiful devices invented to display the beauty of the jasmine. Their shoots grow so rapidly and luxuriantly, that if the plant is allowed to luxuriate, it will soon cover any frame-work with its drooping beauty. The jasmine loves to hang downwards ; and I have admired inventive little arbors, where the plant has 80 JASMINES. been trained up behind them, and the branches allowed to fall over their front in the richest profu sion, curtained back like the entrance of a tent. The effect, during their time of flowering, was re markably elegant. When you prune the jasmine, cut the branches, to an eye or bud, just by the place from which the} sprout, and that in such a manner, that the head, when trimmed, should resemble the head of a wil low. This method makes them throw out abun dance of branches and fine flowers. Give fresh soil to the jasmine every two years, or they will gradually become weakened in thei: blooms. The secret of having fine flowers, is in keeping up the soil to a regular degree of strength, as the human frame languishes under change of diet, and becomes weakened for want of food. Thus it is with animate and inanimate nature. CHAPTER VI. ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS AND EVERGREENS. I SHALL speak now of the ornamental shrubs Avhich decorate a flower garden, and which a lady may superintend herself, if her own physical powers are not equal to the fatigue of planting. A laborer, or a stout active girl, may act under her orders, and do all that is necessary to be done, in removing or planting flowering shrubs and evergreens. In planting flowering shrubs, be very particular to plant them at such distances that each plant may have plenty of room to grow, and strike out their roots and branches freely. If shrubs are crowded together, they become stunted in growth, and lanky in form. If you are forming a clump, or even a planta tion, let each shrub be planted six feet apart from its neighbor : but if you wish to plant roses, syrin- gas, honeysuckles, lilacs, &c. in your flower bor ders, they should be from twelve to fifteen feet dis tant from each other, so as not to interfere with the flowers growing below them. Do not plant tall shrubs promiscuously among low-growing ones. Let the taller shrubs form the back-grounds, that each shrub may be distinctly seen. The shrubs should be trained up with single stems, and they should be pruned every year, taking up the suckers, and removing disorderly branches. By allowing each shrub plenty of room, it will 8 82 EVERGREEN SHRUBS. form a handsome head, and throw out vigorous, shoots. You will also have space to dig betweei the shrubs, and the sun and air can benefit them. Some of the more beautiful evergreens look ex tremely well, dotted about the grounds singly or ii clumps, but be very particular in planting your shrubs. For instance, when you wish to transplant or plant a shrub, dig a circular hole sufficiently large to receive the roots of the plant, which must be laid neatly down, while some person holds the shrub in its proper position, straight and upright Cut away any dead or damaged roots ; then brcnl the earth well with your spade, and throw it into the hole, shaking the plant gently, just to let the earth fall close in among the roots. When it is well filled up, tread the earth gently round the shrub to fix it, but do not stamp it, as I have seen people do. But if you can take up shrubs with a ball o earth round their roots, they do not feel the opera tion, and their leaves do not droop. Water each shrub after planting ; give each of them a good soaking, and let each plant have a stake to suppor; it during the winter. October is the autumn month for transplanting shrubs, and February and March are the spring months. I always prefer the autumn transplant ing, as the rains and showers are so fructifying. March is the last month for transplanting ever greens. Laurustinus, Phillyreas, and Laurel, are excel lent shrubs to plant near buildings, or to hide a wall. They are evergreen summer and winter, very hardy, and quick growing. EVERGREEN SHRUBS. 83 The Pyracantha is an elegant shrub, with its clusters of red berries ; and it looks gay during the autumn and winter. The Arbutus, or strawberry-tree, is loaded with its strawberries in August, September, and Octo ber. This is a beautiful shrub, placed singly on a lawn, kept to one single clean stem, and a fine branching head. Portugal laurels are beautiful : their deep green leaves, and scented feathery flowers, make them an important shrub in all gardens. It has been ascertained by a late severe winter, that evergreens are extremely hardy, and will bear any severity of frost. All those evergreens con sidered most tender, such as Portugal laurels, rho dodendrons, &c., were observed to brave the frost unhurt, which were placed in high, unsheltered places, or facing the east and north. It was ob served, also, that those evergreens were destroyed whose aspect was south and west, and which lay in warm and sheltered situations. The cause was this. The shrubs did not suffer which were not subject to alterations of heat and cold ; while those which lay in warm situations, being thawed by the sun s rays during the day, could not endure the sudden chill of returning frost at night. Plant your evergreens, therefore, fearlessly in exposed situations ; and care only, in severe win ters, for those which are likely to be thawed and frozen again twice in twenty-four hours. Rhododendrons are very beautiful shrubs, and grow into trees, if the soil agrees with them. They love a bog soil. The Camellia japonica is considered a green house plant, but it becomes hardy, like the laurel, 84 EVERGREEN SHRUBS. if care is taken to shelter it for a few winters, when it gradually adapts itself to the climate This is troublesome, perhaps, as most things are, to indolent people ; but the trouble is well repaid by the beautiful flowers of the japonicas, its dark leaves, and delicate scent. The gum Cistus is a handsome evergreen, an> looks well any where and every where. Some straw litter spread round their roots in winter is ;. great protection. All evergreens of a hard-wooded nature are pro pagated rapidly by layers, in June or July. This is the method : dig round the tree or shrub, and bend down the pliable branches ; lay them into the earth, and secure them there with hooked or forked sticks. Lay down all the young shoots on each branch, and cover them over with earth about five. inches deep, leaving the tops out about two, three or four inches above ground, according to their dif ferent lengths. If these branches are laid in June or July, they will root by Michaelmas ; but if the} are laid in October, they will be a twelve-month rooting. The layers of Alaternuses and Phillyreas will sometimes be two years rooting, if done so late as October ; therefore lay down your shoots, if possi ble, in June. Let the shoots which are layered be those of the last summer s growth. You may propagate shrubs also from cuttings in February and October. Let strong shoots be cho sen, of last summer s growth : choose them from nine to fifteen inches long, and, if you can, take about two inches of old wood with the shoots at their base. Trim off the lower leaves, place the cuttings half way in the ground, and plant them in EVERGREEN* SHRUBS. 85 a shady border to root. Do this in February, in preference to October, as every thing roots earlier from spring operations. You may also plant cut tings in June, but keep them moist and shady. October is a good month for taking up suckers of lilacs, roses, &c., and for all sorts of transplanting in its varieties. It is also the month to transplant the layers of such shrubs as were laid in the pre vious October. I subjoin a list of hardy deciduous shrubs and evergreens, not too tall to admit into a moderately sized flower garden. DECIDUOUS SHRUBS OF LESSER GROWTH. Arbutus, Strawberry-tree Common Double-flowering Red-flowering Eastern, or Andrachne Almond, common White flowering Early dwarf, single flower Double-Dwarf Althaafrutex, striped Red White Blue Purple Pheasant s eye Andromeda, striped Evergreen Azalea, with red flowers White Berberry, common, red fruit Stonetess, red fruit White fruit Bladder-nut, three-leaved Five-leaved Broom, the Spanish Double-flowering Yellow Portugal White Portugal Lucca Bramble, double-flowering American upright White-fruited Dwarf Thornless Chionanthus, Fringe, or Snow drop tree Candleberry myrtle, broad- leaved Long-leaved Fern-leaved Oak-leaved Cherry, double-blossomed Cornelian Dwarf Canada Currant, with gold and silver- blotched leaved With gooseberry leaves Pennsylvanian Dogicood, the common Virginia Great-flowering Newfoundland 80 EVERGREEN SHRUBS. E?rcpemw,black-berried heath Guelder Rose, common Double, or snow-ball Carolina Gold-blotched leaf Currant-leaved Hydrangea, white-flowering Honeysuckle, early red Italian Early white Dutch Late Dutch Late red Long-blowing Large scarlet trumpet Small trumpet Oak-leaved Early white Italian Early red Italian Ivy, deciduous, or Virginian creeper Jasmine, the common white Common yellow Italian Gold-striped leaved Silver-striped leaved Lilac, blue White Purple, or Scotch Persian, with cut leaves Persian, white-flowered Persian, blue-flowered Lonicera, upright Honey suckle Red-berried Blue-berried Virginian Tartarian Mezereon white Early red Late red Purple Mespilus, spring-flowering Lady Hardwick s shrub Peach, double-flowering Privet, common Silver-striped Yellow-blotched leaves Ptelea, or American Shrub Trefoil Pemcgranate, single-flowerii g Double Robinia, or false Acacia Common Yellow flowered Scarlet-flowered, or rose acacia Caragana Rhamnus, or Buckthorn Common Sea buckthorn Yellow-berried Creeping evergreen Raspberry, double-flowering Virginian sweet-flowering Rose, in every variety Spiraiafrutez, common red Scarlet White Sumach, scarlet Large downy White Virginia Elm leaved Myrtle-leaved Carolina Syringa, common Dwarf double-flowering Scorpion Senna Srnilax, broad-leaved Blotched-leaved Tulip Tree Tamarisk, the French German Viburnum, or Wayfarer Common Stripe-leaved American broad-leaved Maple-leaved EVERGREEN SHRUBS 87 EVERGREENS. Alaternus, common Blotched-leaved Jagged-leaved, plain Ditto, striped Silver-striped Cold-striped Cistus, or Rock Rose Gum Cistus, with spotted flowers With plain white flowers Purple sage-leaved Male Portugal Bay-leaved gum With hairy willow leaves Black poplar-leaved Waved-leaved Purple, or true Gum Cistus of Crete, with other va rieties Cytisus, Neapolitan Canary Siberian and Tartarian Laurustinus, common Broad, or shining-leaved Rough leaved Oval-leaved Bay, broad-leaved Narrow-leaved Phillyrea. the true Broad-leaved Privet-leaved Prickly-leaved Olive-leaved Gold-edged Silver-edged Rosemary-edged Juniper, common Swedish Sclavonian Canada Jasmine, evergreen Pyracantha Ivy, common Striped-leaved Virginian Irish, or quick-growing Honeysuckle, evergreen Rose, the evergreen Rhododendron, dwarf Rose Bay Katmia, olive-leaved Broad-leaved Thyme-leaved Coronilla, narrow-leaved Broad-leaved Magnolia, laurel-leaved Lesser bay-leaved Arbor Vitce, common China American Cypress, common upright Male Spreading Bignonia, the evergreen Widow Wail Locust of Montpelier Medicago, Moon Trefoil Stonecrop Shrub Ragwort, the sea Hotly, common Carolina broad-leaved Yellow-berried Many varieties Laurels, common Portugal Alexandrian Oak, Ilex, or evergreen Kermes, or scarlet-bearing Gramuntian, holly-leaved Carolina live Germander, shrubby, of Crete Euonymus, evergreen Virginia Virginia Groundsel tree Wormwood, lavender leaved Spurge, or wood laurel Kneeholm, or Butcher s broom Horse-tail, shrubby 88 EVERGREEN SHRUBS. In pruning shrubs, be careful to cut out the lonj rambling shoots of the last summer s growth, which disfigure their appearance. Cut away, also, branches of shrubs which interlace each other, that every shrub may stand clear and well-defined. Take away their suckers, and let each shrub be kept to a single stem, as I have before observed. 89 CHAPTER VII. MONTHLY NOTICES. A RECAPITULATION of the work which each month presents to the gardener s notice, will be useful. By occasionally glancing over the Monthly Notices, the memory is refreshed ; and it will be found that even the three winter months allow the young gar dener no remission from labor. There is some thing to be done in every week of the year, some thing to be attended to, which amuses the mind, interests the imagination, and benefits the general tone of mental and physical health. Let your lawn and grass walks be kept neat and smooth, by rolling, this raon h ; and if any part of the grounds require fresh turf, this is the season for cutting and laying it down. If you live in the neighborhood of a common, that is the best ground for cutting turf, as the herbage is short, and free from nettles, docks, &c. Lay it down firm and even, allowing for the sinking of the newly laid earth, about an inch or two. Roll it well, after having laid down the turf. Keep the gravel walks also from weeds and moss, and roll them in dry weather. If you attempt to roll gravel in wet weather, the gravel clings to the roller. Dig the clumps or spots where you mean to plant ever greens, in February and March, that the ground may be trenched in readiness. The frost of this month will render newly-dug earth more friable, and the snow will enrich it. If the weather is very settled and mild, you may still plant out hardy deciduous shrubs, such as sweelbriars, double bramble, donble-blossomed cherry, dwarf almond, jasmines, honeysuckles, roses, lilacs, laburnums, guelder rose, Spiraea frutex, mezereons, &c. Transplant each shrub with a good ball of earth round its roots. 90 MONTHLY NOTICES. Prune flowering shrubs now, where they require it, \v th a sharp knife, not with shears. When I say "floweri ig shrubs," I do not mean shrubs in flower, but shrubs that do flower. Transplant suckers from the hardy flowering shrubs, if they have not been done before. Take them up with go )d roots and support them neatly with stakes. Cuttings of young shoots of hardy deciduous shrubs m ly be planted in mild weather, to root, and form good plants in the autumn. Layers may be also formed. Protect all the choicer kinds of flowering shrubs, and ill cuttings of every kind, from severe frosts, by spreading litler over them. Plant tulips now always providing the weather is mild to blow late in the year; but they will not be so handsome as those which were planted again in September and October. Plant any ranunculuses, anemones, &c., you may ha/e out of the ground, to come in late blowing; but, like tie tulips, they will not bear such fine blooms. Protect every thing from severe weather, as well as you can, this mon h, particularly your choicer sorts of bulbs, and tuberous-root ;d perennials. FEBRUARY. February is the first spring month, and the parterre \\\\\ begin to make gradual approaches to gaiety and life. T.ie anemones, hepaticas, &,c., will now bud and flower, if the weather is genial; and the crocus and snowdrop will nut forth their blooms to meet the sun on his returning march . About the end of this month, you may begin to sow the hardy annuals. I prefer April, but it may not be convenient always to wait so long: therefore sow now the seeds of hawkweed, lavatera, Venus s looking-glass, Venus s navel- wort, candy-tuft, larkspurs, lupines, convolvulus, flos Adonis, dwarf lychnis, nigella, annual sunflowers, &c. This month you may plant and transplant, fearlessly, ;ill hardy, fibrous-rooted, "flowering perennials and biennials, such as saxifrage, gentianella, hepaticas, violets, primroses of all sorts, polyanthuses, double daisies, thrift, &-c.; rose cam pions, rockets, campanulas, sweet-williams, hollyhocks, scar let lychnis, carnations, pinks, monk s-hood, perennial asters and sunflowers, &c. Plant cuttings of roses, honeysuckles, and jasmines. If the weather is mild, you may transplant many kinds of MONTHLY NOTICES. 91 evergreen shrubs, such as phillyreas, alaternnses, laurels, laurustinus, pyracanthas, cistuses, &c. Let there be a ball of earth round their roots, when you take them out of the ground. If box edging is required, plant it now : water it, and the plants will soon root. Dig the borders carefully and lightly, with your garden fork; make the garden look neat, and free from weeds; clear away dead leaves ; sweep the lawn and walks , and let spring advance in its proper order. Now plant away. Evergreens cannot be moved at a bet ter period. Deciduous flowering shrubs may also be still planted, such as Altha?a frutex, syringa^, roses, honeysuckles, mezereons, sumach, laburnums, lilacs, jasmines, candleberry, myrtles, guelder roses, &c. Where the borders require filling np, the following plants may still be moved, but do it early in this month : Lychnises, campanulas, Canterbury bells, tree primroses, rockets, sweet-williams, wallflowers, columbines, monk s- hood, rose campions, perennial asters and sunflowers, fox gloves. &c. Sow perennial and biennial flower seeds about the last week in this mouth. Stake your hyacinths, when the flower stems are tall. Plant out layered carnations of last year, into the places where they ought to remain. Give fresh earth to any plants in pots, such as carnations, pinks, auriculas, double sweet-williams, double stock gillr- flowers, rockets, &c. Sow annuals of all hardy kinds. Transplant any hardy roses, which you may wish should blow late in the year. Plant box, for edgings, still ; and roll the lawn and grass walks. Transplant any tenderer kinds of annuals which you may have been at the pains of raising in, or procuring from, a hot bed. Keep the garden quite free from weeds and dead leaves. APRIL. Now place sticks to every plant or stalk requiring support. Fix the sticks, or light iron rods, firmly in the ground; and tie the stems to each stick neatly, in two or three places. 92 MONTHLY NOTICES. Some evergreens may yet be removed, as laurels, lauructi- nus, Portugal laurel, cistuses, arbutus, magnolias, pyracz.n- thas, &c. Propagate auriculas, by slipping off their suckers and cff- sets, this month. Sow carnation and polyanthus seeds still. Sow, also, pe rennial and biennial seeds. Where any perennial or biennial fibrous-rooted flowers are wanted, transplant them only in the first week of Mis month, and they must have each a good ball of earth attached to them ; but this work should be completed in February, or March at farthest. Every sort of annual may now be sown. Take care of your hyacinths, tulips, ranunculuses, and anemones now, for they will be hastening into bloom. Place your auriculas, hyacinths, &c., which may be in pi ts, in a sheltered place, during heavy rains or winds; and shel ter those flowers which are in the borders as well as you can. Trim them from dead leaves. Keep your lawn and grass walks nicely mown and rollod, and your borders free from weeds and rubbish. Propagate perennial fibrous-rooted plants by cuttings. Propagate double wall-flowers by slips of the young shoots of the heads. Sow annuals for succession; such as sweet-peas, nastur tiums, lavatera, lupines, flos Adonis, &c. Take up those hyacinths, tulips, <fec., which have done flowering, and dry them in the shade to put away. Weeds grow quickly now: hoe them up wherever you see them. Support all flowers with sticks; train then/up right. Clear away all the dead leaves from your carnations, and gently stir the earth round them with your smallest trowel. Look round the borders now, and take off irregular shoots. Propagate carnations by layers and pipings. Propagate double sweet-williams and pinks by layers and cuttings or slips. Propagate perennial fibrous-rooted plants by cuttings of the stalks. MONTHLY NOTICES. 93 Transplant the large annuals from the seedling bed to places where they are to remain. Let this be done in showery weather, if possible. Take up all bulbs, ranunculus, and anemone roots, &c., as the flowers and leaves decay. Water the delicate plants if the weather proves dry : give a moderate watering every evening; but never in the heat of the day. Sow yet some hardy annuals, such as ten-week stocks, virgin stock, &c. Plant out China-asters, Chinese hollyhocks, ten-week stocks, large convolvulus, &c., but let each root have a ball of earth round it. Examine the perennial and biennial plants, to cut off all dead, broken, or decaying shoots. Trim the African and French marigolds from their lower straggling shoots, that they may present a neat upright appearance. Trim the chrysanthemums, which are apt to branch too near the root, and stake them neatly. Plant out carnations and pink seedlings into their proper places. Keep every thing just moderately moist, if there is a long drought in this month. You may lay carnations and double sweet-williams still; but let it be done before the end of the second week in this month. Propagate pinks by slips and pipings. Transplant the seedling auriculas which were sown last year, as also the seedling polyanthus. Transplant the perennial and biennial seedlings which were not done last month, to remain till October. Take up all bulbs as fast as they decay their leaves. If this month prove hot and dry, place your potted carnations in a sheltered situation, and keep them just moist. Support flowering shrubs and plants, and cut away de cayed stems. Keep the borders clean. M ow the lawn and grass walks. Plant autumnal bulbs. AUGUST. You may now begin to propagate some double-flowered and approved fibrous-rooted plants the end of the month, if they have done flowering ; such, for instance, as the double 9 94 MONTHLY NOTICES. rose campion, catchfly, double scarlet lychnis, double rocke , double ragged robin, bachelor s buttons, gentianella, polyai - thnses, auriculas, &c. Sow auricula and polyanthus seed on a warm, dry day ; and remove carnation layers to some place where they ma/ remain till October to gain strength. Sow seeds of bulbs. Sow anemone and ranunculus seed. Remove all bulbs which have done flowering. Cut and trim edgings of box. Clip holly, yew, and pr - vet hedges. Gather flower seeds. Plant autumnal bulbs, if any are still above ground, sue i as colchicums, autumnal narcissus, amaryllis, and autum i crocus. Trim the flower plants ; mow the lawn and grass walks, and keep every department in neat order. SEPTEMBER. Transplant, in any moist or showery weather this month, the perennial and biennial seedlings to their proper situa tion?, with a ball of earth round their roots. Propagate fibrous-rooted plants. Prepare the spots where you mean to deposite anemone and ranunculus roots any time between the end of this month and the end of October ; and dig all beds and borders which are vacant, to prepare them also for receiving roots and plants next month. Transplant peonies, flag irises, monk s-hood, fraxinelhi, and such like plants, to part their roots and remove eacli root to its destined position. Transplant evergreens. Plant cuttings of honeysuckles, and other shrubs. Plant hyacinth and tulip roots for early spring bloom. Plant box by slips or roots. Mow grass lawn and walks. Clear away flower stems, and trim flowering plants. Sow seeds of bulbous flowers, if not done last month. This is a very busy month; for the garden should now by cleared and arranged for the season. Transplant all sorts of fibrous-rooted perennial and bien nial plants now where they are intended to remain. MONTHLY NOTICES. 95 Put the bulbs into the ground again; and transplant the different layered plants into their respective places. Prune flowering shrubs of all sorts. Plant and transplant all hardy deciduous shrubs, and their suckers. Dig up and part the roots of all flowers which require so doing, and replant them. Plant cuttings of honeysuckles, laurels, &c. Take up the roots of dahlias, and put them carefully away till May. Trim evergreens. Plant box edgings ; cut away the long, sticky roots, and trim the tops even. Mow grass walks and lawns, and weed gravel walks. NOVEMBER. Prepare compost for a new year, by raking dead leaves, soil, sand, &c. in a heap, to turn well over occasionally. Pour the brine, soap-suds, &c. from the house over it. Transplant still all hardy kinds of flowering shrubs, suckers, &c. Clear the borders from dead annuals, leaves, stumps, &c.; shelter the choice bulbs and double-flowering plants, DECEMBER. Take care of every thing. Protect the more delicate roots from severe frost, by strewing ashes, sand, or litter over them. Prune shrubs, and dig between them. If the weather is open, you may still plant hardy sorts of flowering shrubs. 96 CHAPTER VIII. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. CALENDAR FOR THE SOUTHERN STATK3. JANUARY. Sow peas, spinach, lettuce, cabbages , radishes, parsley, beets, carrots, salsafy, parsnips, turnips, asparagus. Plant horse radish, Irish po tatoes. Transplant cabbages and lettuce. Remarks. The best variety of peas for this month are early frame and bishops, for an early crop, and dwarf marrowfat and dwarf green impe rial for a succession. Only a few beets, carrots, parsnips, salsafy, and turnips, should be sown this month, as they are all very tender while young, and consequently easily killed. Endive should be tied up for bleaching. It is late to dress artichokes and asparagus beds, but if not done before, they must now be attended to. Irish potatoes planted in the commencement of this month, may have their tops killed by frost in February, but will not be injured ; towards the last of the month they may be planted for a general crop. FEBRUARY. Sow peas, spinach, lettuce, cab bages, radishes, corn, beets, carrots, salsafy, pars nips, turnips, thyme, sage, and other herbs. Plant Irish potatoes. Transplant cabbages and lettuce. Remarks. The same varieties of peas may be sown in this month as were directed for the last. The principal crop of beets and carrots should now be sown. The common varieties of spinach should THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. 97 be sown in small quantities once in ten days, as it soon runs to seed. MARCH. Sow carrots, beets, Swiss chard, pars nips, salsafy, cabbages, spinach, turnips, leeks, tomatoes, peppers, radishes, lettuce, Guinea squash. Plant cucumbers, okra, squashes, melons, snap beans, cushaws, sewee beans, New Zealand spi nach. Transplant tomatoes, peppers, Guinea squash, cabbages, and lettuce. Remarks. All the above vegetables should be got in at as early a period as possible. Carrots should now be sown for a full crop, and from Eng lish seed. Lettuce should remain where it is sown. New Zealand spinach should be sown in hills, three feet apart each way. Radishes should be sown every three weeks. All Irish potatoes should be planted this month. If the season be mild, most of the vegetables mentioned in March may be sown towards the last of the month. APRIL. Sow carrots, beets, salsafy, turnips, cabbages, cauliflowers, brocoli, tomatoes, peppers, radishes, lettuce, celery, leeks. Plant okra, snap beans, squashes, sewee beans, cucumbers, cushaws, melons. Transplant cabbages, tomatoes, peppers, Guinea squashes. Prick out celery. Remarks. The sowing of the main crop of car rots for summer and autumn, ought not to be delay ed longer than this month, as they will be easily killed when up. The seed should be from Europe, or they will run to seed in the fall. Cucumbers, squashes, and melons, do not succeed well if de layed until now, but a few may be sown. The same remark applies to beets, salsafy, parsnips, and turnips. MAY. Sow cabbages, savoys, carrots, beets, 98 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. turnips, cauliflowers, brocoli, celery, radishes. Plant snap beans. Transplant cabbages. Prick out celery. Remarks. There is not much probability of either beets, parsnips, carrots, or turnips, succeed ing at this season, especially the last ; yet if want ed, a few may be ventured ; under very favorable circumstances, they may succeed. If carrots l.e sown, the ground should be shaded and kept moist, and this continued to the plants sometime after they are up, or they will be killed by the hot sun. JUNE. Sow cauliflowers, brocoli, cabbages, ca - rots, tomaJoes. Plant snap beans, orka. Trans plant celery, cabbages, leeks. Prick out cauli flowers, brocoli, and celery. Remarks. This month is generally very dry and hot, and all the crops recommended to be sown now, must be protected from the sun : most of them should have been sown in April, and it is only in case of failure or omission, that they should now be sown ; the month may be considered bad for the sowing of seeds generally. JULY. Sow early Dutch turnips, ruta baga, car rots parsnips, cabbages, cauliflowers, brocoli, en dive, radishes, spinach. Plant snap beans, Irish potatoes, melons. Transplant cabbages, celery, cauliflowers, brocoli, tomatoes, and leeks. Remarks. A few only of carrots, parsnips, spi nach, or radishes, should be sown, as it is not very probable that they will succeed, unless well pro tected from the sun for some length of time, while young. The early Dutch turnips should also be sown towards the middle and last of the month, in small quantities. The Irish potatoe will be fit for use in October, and the tomatoes will furnish a sup- THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. 99 ply when the spring-sown crop has ceased to bear, and then continue till killed by a frost. AUGUST. Sow peas, early Dutch and other vari eties of turnips, rnta baga, onions, cabbages, cauli flowers, brocoli, black Spanish radishes, carrots, beets, parsnips, salsafy, lettuce, and endives. Plant snap beans. Transplant cabbages, cauli flowers, brocoli, celery, ruta baga, and endive. Remarks. Not much can be expected from peas sown this month, as they will be much crippled by the high winds and rain which we usually have ; but if much wanted, a few may be ventured. The beets and spinach are liable to the attacks of the worms, which destroy their leaves : should they escape these, they will be very fine. SEPTEMBER. Sow early Dutch and other varie ties of turnips, ruta baga, beets, Swiss chard, man gle wurzle, carrots, parsnips, salsafy, lettuce, spi nach, cabbages, (English seed,) onions, radishes, endive. Plant snap beans. Transplant ruta baga, cabbages, cauliflowers, brocoli, celery, lettuce, leeks, endive. Remarks. In this month the principal crops of turnips, beets, carrots parsnips, &c. should be sown, as they will acquire sufficient strength to withstand the cold weather before the winter sets in. When thinning out the ruta baga, the plants should be reserved and transplanted out either into those spaces where they have failed, or into a piece prepared expressly for them, If the cabbage seed are not English, they will run to seed in the spring without heading. OCTOBER. Sow cabbages, lettuce, carrots, beets, turnips, radishes, spinach, salsafy, parsnips, ruta 100 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. baga. Transplant cabbages, cauliflowers, brocoli, onions, lettuce, leeks, and endive. Remarks. If any of the crops recommended above have not been sown, they should not be neg- ected longer ; most of them may be sown with considerable advantage. The artichokes should iu this month be attended to, the suckers removed, and manure given. Strawberries should be set out this month ; they will bear in the ensuing spring. NOVEMBER. Sow peas, cabbages, radishes, car rots, spinach, turnips, parsnips, lettuce, beets, sal- safy. Plant mazagon and Windsor beans. Trans plant cabbages, lettuce, onions, and leeks. Remarks. The first crop of peas may be sown about the commencement of this month, and ;i general crop towards the last, though it is better to defer this until the next month. The dwarf mar rowfat and dwarf green imperial are the best varie ties for sowing. The asparagus beds should now be dressed, and a good supply of manure given. DECEMBER. Sow peas, spinach, radishes, car rots, salsafy, lettuce, cabbages, beets, parsnips Plant Irish potatoes, mazagon and Windsor beans Transplant cabbages, lettuce, and onions. Remarks. Any of the variety of peas may be sown in this month. The Irish potatoes will come up so early as to have their tops destroyed by frost, but will not be injured materially, if at all, by this. All seeds sown during this month, except spinach, peas, and beans, must be protected in cold weather. 101 CHAPTER IX. VEGETABLE AND FLOWER GARDEN. CALENDAR FOR THE NORTHERN STATES. From the Lady s Annual Register. JANUARY. The New Year has come. The old one, with its joys, its sorrows, its labors, its repose, its temptations, its conquests, its light or dark hours, is gone. The preparations for New Year are over the Gifts are all arranged nothing remains but the joyful distribution of them. Much is to be regretted in the past year. For the future, there should be nothing but hope and good resolu tion. This year is at least now unstained by sin ; strive that it may long continue so ; think not of the past, except as a warning and encouragement for the future, trust humbly in a good Providence, and keep boldly on. If you have parted with friemls during the past year, resolve to bestow more kindness and love on those that remain. If God has blest you with wealth, dispense it to the needy, with a more liberal hand. If your means have been lessened, take to yourself a double por tion of content, and show your ingenuity in making a little answer. Whatever you do, do well and cheerfully. FEBRUARY. Still winter reigns. February has not the charm and excitement of January, the New Year s holidays, presents, &c., to reconcile us to it. 102 VEGETABLE AND FLOWER GARDEN. It has only cold weather, snow storms, and now and then a warm day. But the sun is drawing nearer tons; when it does shine, it is to some purpose; and in this month comes the birthday of Washing ton, and that day is frequently celebrated by social meetings, balls, and parties. It is also a shirt month, and it is the last month of Winter, and \:e bear it as well as we can, because we feel that spring, at least in name, is coming. In the latter part of the month it is well to sow mignionette in pots and boxes in the windows. It brings it fcr- ward early, and it smells so sweet, that one who has once enjoyed it will hardly be willing to do without it. Parlor flowers should be well watched, for some of the nights of this month arc very cold. The proverb is, "As the days begin to lengthen, The cold begins to strengthen," and it is not less true of the nights. Many a ten der parlor plant which has lived through Decemb3r and January, is touched by the cold nights of FCJ- ruary and March. A large cloth thrown over the flower stand is a protection. Some persons recom mend a bowl of water to be placed under the cloih with the plant. If, notwithstanding all precau tions, they should be touched with the frost, th< y should be sprinkled in the morning with cold water ; this will sometimes prevent them from dying. MARCH is a cold, blustering month. With us it is often the most uncomfortable one in the year. The old farmers used to say they could depend on " six weeks sledding in March." We have some times, however, a few warm and pleasant days to give us a foretaste of spring. It is not desirable VEGETABLE AND FLOWER GARDEN. 103 that they should continue long enough to bring for ward vegetation in any great degree, for we are certain to have cold weather after it. We had bet ter bear patiently the cold and bleak winds while we are clad in furs, than be compelled to lay them aside only to take them up again. The rains which come from time to time are apt to be cold, and often mingled with snow. If the weather should be warm at the very end of the month, the snow-drop may be looked for, the first flower of spring, and such a hardy little thing, that it does not mind if a snow storm comes along and covers it up for a day or two. As soon as the sun melts it off, it looks as bright as ever again. APRIL. If the weather is favorable, and we are not visited with snow storms and cold rains, as is too often the case, some preparation may now be made for a garden. Asparagus beds may be pre pared, beans and peas sowed, and potatoes for early use may be planted. Housewives will endeavor to make preparation for a variety of the fragrant and medicinal herbs used in a family, fennel, marjoram, sage, parsley, lavender, balm, mint, &c. Garden vegetables, lettuce, onions, parsnips, radishes, and salsafy, may be sowed. Cucumbers under pots and glasses. Toward the end of the month, flower seeds may be sown. If bulbs were put into the ground last year, they will begin to be in blossom this month in sunny places, which are sheltered from the cold winds. The crocus and snow drops, the narcis suses, will show their flowers, and the crown impe rials, tulips, and hyacinths, will be giving promise of their future beauties. The flower beds must now be raked fine. If rose bushes and other shrubs 104 VEGETABLE AND FLOWER GARDEX. are to be removed, the best time is soon after tde frost leaves the ground. The tops of rose bushes should be cut off, which makes them bloom strong er. Perennial and biennial seeds should be sown in a bed by themselves, and moved to the flow er garden when of a proper size. As a general ru.e, flower seeds are better to be rolled into the gromd with a roller, or pressed in with a board, as some kinds will not otherwise vegetate. It is necessary to rake the ground a little before sowing, as it be comes hard by the frequent rains which fall this month. The following are some of the seels which may be sown toward the middle and end of this month : White Chrysanthemum, Prince s Feath er, Red Lavatera, Grand flowering Argemon e, Night flowering Primrose, Scorzonera, Scarlet Ma- lope, White Catchfly, Pot Marigold, African Ro^e, Azure Blue Gilia, Sweet Alyssum, White Candy tuft, Mignionette, and some others. In removi ig plants from one part of the garden to another, take up a large portion of the earth, that the roots may be disturbed as little as possible. The pretty little wild flower, called the May flower, (Epigeia Repcns) is seen in some parts of the country in the course of this month ; the leaves are evergreen under the snow, and as soon as this cold covering is removed, the little flower appears. It grows in abundance at Plymouth, Mass., and is said to have been the first flower which saluted the eyes of the Pilgrim fathers, after their arrival on these shores, and to have received its name from that circumstance. MAY. Tomatoes may be sowed in a warm situ ation. Plant cucumbers, melons, and squashes. Plant beans. Weed and thin radishes. Plant corn for the table. Weed plants that may have VEGETABLE AND FLOWER GARDEN. 105 come up. Sow turnips and peas. Transplant early lettuce. In the middle of the day, when the weather is mild, cucumber frames may be opened to inure the young plants to the air. But they must be carefully shut up at evening. This is the time, if the season be favorable, for Hyacinths and Narcissuses. There are some early Tulips, but none so fine as those which ap pear later. The Dwarf Phlox begins to show its lively flowers, asd the Dwarf Iris. The Periwin kle is also seen at the end of this month, with its pretty blue flowers and myrtle like leaf. The seeds to be sown this month are, Morning Glory, Starry Ipomea, Nasturtium, Balloon vine, Red four o clock, Violet Zinnia, Yellow Immortal flower, Blue Commelina, Tricolored Amaranthus, Red Opium Poppy, French Marigold, Blue Lupine, Double Carnation, Poppy, Double purple Balsams, Scarlet Cacalia, Wing leaved Schizanthus, Thun- bergia, and others. JUNE. Such seeds as were not planted the last month, must now be put into the ground. Toward the last of the month, melons and cucumbers for pickling must be sowed. Those cucumbers which are under glasses, must be watered and the frames lifted up during the day, that they may have fresh air. It is safest to close them at night, particularly in the early part of the month, as the nights are occasionally cold. Trenches must be prepared for transplanting young celery plants. Onion and as paragus beds must be kept carefully weeded. Young vegetables, w r hich have been transplanted, should be watered at night. The annuals must be thinned out, and such as are wanted to mix with the perennials must be 10 106 VEGETABLE AND FLOWER GARDEN. transplanted the last part of this month, the surface of the ground must be kept light, and no weeds suffered to remain. The Peoney is now in iis glory; many superb varieties of this flower have been introduced from China; the common species was introduced into Antwerp a little more than two hundred years ago, and then sold for an enormoi s price. It is now common in every garden. It is said that there are as many as fifty different spe cies and varieties, some a pure white, blush, and shades of red and purple. As soon as the foliage of the Tulips begins to turn purple, the roots should be taken up and laid in a shady place to dry, cs also the Crocuses. The Crown Imperial should also be removed the last of the month. The Hyu- cinths are longer in coming to maturity ; in about two months from the time of blowing, when the leaves begin to turn yellow, which is about the middle of July, they may be taken up and treated in the same manner as the tulips. JULY. Garden seeds must be gathered as they ripen, and arranged, when dried, in paper bags, with the name written upon them, ready for the next year s planting. Garden seeds for the late and winter crops may be sowed. Those cauli flower plants wich were sown in May, may be now planted out in rows ; they will ripen in Octo ber and November. Turnip beds may be thinned out, but in doing this, care must be taken to pull away those only which are the most feeble look ing, and where they are growing too closely to gether. Choose the healthiest plants to remain, and let them stand about six inches from each other. People who are fond of having crops of garden vegetables succeed each other until late in VEGETABLE AND FLOWER GARDEN*. 107 the season, will sow peas again this month. On ions which have attained their full size and are be ginning to change to a yellow color, should have their tops bent down to the earth, which prevents the vigor and juice from running all into the stems. The vines of the cucumbers should be disposed in straight lines, and the earth carefully dug about the stems of the plants. When the weather is hot and the ground very dry, the young crops and the plants lately transplanted, should be watered. The flower garden continues in its glory, in creased, if any thing, by the later Roses, the Pinks, Carnations, Larkspurs, Feverfew Coreopsis, Phlox es, Canterbury Bell, and many others. The plants should be kept neatly tied up to sticks, and the flower beds neatly weeded. They require con stant attention, as the weeds as well as the flowers know this is their growing time. Flowers which have been kept in the house during the winter, are thought by some persons to be improved by being set out in the garden, the pots sunk into the earth. It is often advantageous to them to take them (at least the common kinds, such as roses and the more hardy geraniums,) from the pots, and place them in the ground during the hot weather. Dou ble pinks and carnations may be propagated by layers. They can also be increased by piping, which is done by cutting off the sprouts entirely, and setting them in small pots, which, if covered by a tumbler, will form roots. An immense num ber of varieties of carnations and pinks are cultiva ted by florists. AUGUST. The weeds grow so fast at this sea son of the year, that they require constant atten tion. Young weeds must be cleared from the beds 108 VEGETABLE AND FLOWER GARPEV. of young plants, and old ones must be cut do\v i before their seed ripens, or the wind will scatter it about the garden. The flowers this month are all of a gorgeou? , brilliant appearance. There is the Sun Flowei, the red, red and white Hibiscus, the Double Holh - hocks of various colors ; the white and Pyramid; 1 Phlox, the Tiger Lily. Not much is to be clone i i the flower garden, but to save seeds, as they become ripe; cut down decayed plants, and tie up an 1 trim others of their superfluous foliage. The ar bors are now fully covered with odoriferous vinos, and are a delightful retreat toward evening, when the honeysuckles give out their most delicious odo . SEPTEMBER. There is not much to be done with the garden now but to enjoy its fruits, and its bril liant though somewhat gaudy flowers. One of the most beautiful of them is the Dahlia, which has, within a few years, been introduced into the ga > dens of New England. It was not much cultiva ted in England until the year 1814. It is a nath e of Mexico, and was named after a Swedish bota nist of the name of Dahl, a pupil of the celebrated Linnaeus. The first introduced into Europe was a purple one, in 1789, which was single. Since then there have been very numerous and beautiful varieties introduced. They are produced either from the seeds or by dividing the roots. They will flower the first year from the seed, but very few will be double. The finest varieties are prop agated by dividing the roots, which are tuberous, and resemble the sweet potatoe. As soon as the frost has blackened the tops, they should be dug up and put into a warm, dry cellar, secure from frost. When the spring returns, they must be divided by a VEGETABLE AND FLOWER GARDEX. 109 sharp knife, being careful to leave a bud on each bulb, or else they will not grow. Gardeners also raise them by cuttings. OCTOBER. Though the flower garden is now hardly beautiful enough to lead us to meet the fogs of a chilly October morning, yet in the middle of the day it still looks brilliant, with its high colored, but scentless flowers. The sweet Alyssum, however, does not deserve the latter appellation, and that may still be found by the side of the modest and ever welcome Heart s-ease, which, under any of its names, or of whatever species, deserves all the praise of the hundred and one sonnets which have been written in its honor. Bulbous roots may be planted this month. Holes should be dug one foot and a half deep, and filled with a previously prepared compost of one third fine river sand, one third decayed scrapings of the cowyard, and one third well rotted pasture turf. Polpenthus, Narcissus, Peonies, Crown Imperials, and Lilies should be planted five inches deep from the?top of the bulb. Hyacinths four inches ; Tu lips, Narcissus, and Jonquils three inches, and Cro cuses and Snowdrops two inches. During this month it is well to dress asparagus beds. This will be done by cutting down all the weeds into the alleys, digging these one spade deep, and spreading the earth evenly over the beds. The old beds must be covered with quite rotten manure, and afterward with the earth from the alleys. Remember to carry away, immediately, the stalks of the old plants and the weeds. In the latter part of the month, (if the weather be dry,) the carrots and potatoes may be dug up and carried into the cellar for winter use. All the spare 10* 110 VEGETABLE AND FLOWER GARDEN. ground too should be well dug and trenched. The baking and other winter pears and apples shoul 1 be carefully gathered, not bruised. The raspber ries may be pruned this month, and the youn^ suckers removed to create new plants. Make fresti layers of carnations. Dig and dress up the flower borders, and transplant such flowers as may be found necessary. Divide the roots of others th; t have^increased too much. Prune and plant all flow - ering shrubs and evergreens. Weed the gravel walks frequently and thoroughly. NOVEMBER. In the flower garden clear all the beds from dead annual plants, pulling them out bv their roots. Cut down, too, all the dead stalks of perennials, then hoe the borders of a dry day, clear away the weeds, and rake the whole smooth. The soil in the spring will be greatly improved by being manured at this time, for the frost and sun and air all contribute to render it tine and mellow for the spring crops. DECEMBER. The garden is hard bound by the frost, or covered over with its garment of snow ; it affords now no occupation or pleasure. The green house, to those who are so fortunate as to possess a luxury of this kind, must take its place. For lack of this, a flower stand, filled with flowering shrubs, is a source of pleasure. Care must be taken to keep the leaves of parlor plants washed clean, the earth moist, and loosened about the roots. If the plants are in a room which is daily swept, it is better to throw a large cloth over them to protect them from the dust, which is very injuri ous to the plants. Ill CHAPTER X. MANAGEMENT OF PLANTS IN ROOMS. From the Lady s Book of Flowers and Poetry. PERHAPS a few hints on the management of plants in rooms, may not be unacceptable to our readers. We, therefore, extract from Paxton s Magazine of Botany, the following observations : " Hints on the general management of plants are attended with considerable difficulty ; every genus requiring some little variation, both in soil, water, and general treatment. If the room where the plants are intended to be placed, is dark and close, but few will ever thrive in it ; if, on the contrary, it is light and airy, with the windows in suitable as pect to receive the sun, plants will do nearly as well as in a greenhouse. If observed to suffer, the effects may be traced to these causes, either want of proper light and air injudicious water ing filthiness collected on the leaves or being potted in unsuitable soil. " 1. Want of proper light and air, is perhaps the most essential point of any to be considered ; for, however well all other requisites are attended to, a deficiency of these will always cause the plant to grow weak and sickly. Let them always be pla ced as near the light as they can conveniently stand, and receive as much air as can be admitted when the weather will allow. Those persons who have no other place than the house to keep them in, will find that they derive immense advantage from 112 MANAGEMENT OF PLANTS INT ROOMS. being, during fine weather in spring or autumn, turned out of doors in the evening, and taken in again in the morning, the night-dews contributing greatly to their health and vigor. "2. Injudicious watering does more injury to plants in rooms than we imagine. To prevent the soil ever having the appearance of dryness, is an object of importance in the estimation of very many ; they, therefore, water to such an excess that the mould becomes sodden, and the roots per ish. Others, to avoid this evil, give scarcely wate; enough to sustain life. This, however, is by n<> means so common a practice ; for, in general, if any thing appears to be the matter with the plant, large doses of water are immediately resorted to, for an infallible restorative. This overplus of water will show its bad effects by the very dark color, and flabby disposition of the leaves; but if the plant receives too little water, its leaves will turn yellow, and eventually die. " The best plan is, to always allow the soil in the pot to have the appearance of dryness (but never sufficient to make the plant flag,) before a supply of water is given, which should then "be pretty copious ; but always empty it out of the pan or feeder, in which the pot stands, as soon as the soil is properly drained. The water used for the; purpose ought always to be made about the same temperature as the room in which the plants grow ; never use it fresh from the pump, either let it stand in a room all night, or take off the chill by a little warm water, otherwise the growth of the plants will be much checked. "3. Extraneous matter collected on the leaves may either arise from insects or dust ; the former MANAGEMENT OF PLANTS IN* ROOMS. 113 may be speedily remedied, by placing the plants under a hand-glass, or any thing that is convenient, and burning some tobacco until they become well enveloped in the smoke ; and the latter may be re moved by occasionally washing them on the head with pure water, either by means of a syringe, the nose of a watering pan, or with a sponge, when the dust still adheres. " Bulbs of most sorts flourish in rooms with less care than most other plants. Hyacinths should be planted in autumn. Fill the pots with light rich soil, and plant the bulbs so shallow that nearly half the bulb stands above the soil, place the pots in the open air, and cover them six or eight inches with rotten bark. During spring, take them out as they are wanted to bring into flower, and set them in the window of a warm room, where they will be exposed to the sun. When the leaves begin to decay after flowering, give them no water ; when the leaves are dead, take them out of the soil, and lay them in an airy situation for planting. " If grown in water-glasses, they require to be placed in a light airy situation, and the water must be changed every three or four days." 114 CHAPTER XL FLORA S REVEALINGS. A. Acacia. Chaste Love. Acanthus. The Arts. Almond. Heedlessness. Aloe. Acute Sorrow or Af fliction. Altkcca Fruter. Persuasion. Amaranth. Immortality. Ambrosia. Love returned. American Coicslip. You are my divinity. American Elm. Patriotism. American Linden. Matrimo ny- American Star-Wort. Wel come to a Stranger. Anemone. Sickness. Apple-Tree Blossom. Fame speaks him great and good. Ash. Grandeur. Ash-Leaved Trumpct-Floicer. Separation, Aspen-Tree. Lamentation. B. Bachelor s Button. I with the morning s love have oft made sport. Balm. A* cure. Balsam. Impatience. Barberry. Sourness. Bay-Berry. Instruction. Bay-Leaf. I change but in dying. Bay-Wreath. The Reward jf Merit. Beech-Tree. Grandeur. Bell-Floicer. Constancy. Birch. Gracefulness. Bird- Cherry. Hope. Black Poplar. Courage. Black Thorn. Difficulty. Blue Bottle Ccntuary. " De i- cacy. Blue "Pyramidal Bell Floictr. Constancy. Box. Stoicism. Bramble. Remorse. Branch of Currants. Y< u please all. Branch of Thorns. Se verily or Rigor. Bud of a white Eo?c. \ Heart ignorant of Love. Butter-Cup. Childishness. Butterfly Orchis. Gaiety. C. Cabbage. Profit. Canterbury Bell. Gratitude. Cardinal s Flower. Distinc tion. Catalpa Tree. Beware of the coquette. Cedar of Lebanon, Incorrup tible. Cedar Tree. Strength. FLORA S REVEALIXGS. 115 Chamomile. Energy in ad versity. Cherry Tree Blossom. Spirit ual beauty. Chesnut Tree. Render me justice. China Aster or, Chinese Star- wort. Variety. China or Indian Pink. Aver sion. China Rose. Beauty always new. Cock s comb, or crested Ama- ranth. Singularity. Common Bramble. Envy. Common Cactus, or Indian Fig. I burn. Common Laurel in Flower. Perfidy. Common Reed. Complais ance. Common Thistle, Importu nity. Coriander. Concealed mer it. Cowslip. Pensiveness. Cranberry. Hardiness. Creeping Cereus. Horror. Crocus. Cheerfulness. Cross of Jerusalem. Devo tion. Crown Imperial. Majesty and power. Cypress. Despair. Cypress Tree. Death and Eternal Sorow. D. Dahlia. Instability. Daisy. Innocence. Damask Rose. Freshness of complexion. Dandelion. Oracle. Dew Plant. A Serenade. Double Daisy. Participation. Dragon Plant. Snare. Dried Flax. Utility. E. Elder. Zealousness. F.ln. Dignity. Endive. Frugality. Ever-Flowering Candy-Tuft. Indifference. Ercrgreen. Poverty. Everlasting. Never-ceasing: Remembrance. F. Fennel. Worthy all praise. Fern. Fascination. Fig. Argument. Fig-Tree. Prolific. Filbert. Reconciliation. Fir. Time. Flax. Fate. Flower of an Hour. Delicate beauty. Forget me-not. True Love. Frankincense. The incense of a faithful heart. French Honeysuckle. Rustic Beauty. French mar ]i gold. Jealousy, Full Blown Rose. Beauty. G. Garden Marygold. Uneasi ness. Garden Ranunculus. You are rich in attraction. Garden Sage. Esteem. Glory Flower. Glorious Beauty. Grape, Wild. Charity. Grass. Submission. Great Flmcered Evening Prim rose. Inconstancy. 116 FLORAS REVEALINGS. H. Hare-Bell. Delicate and Lonely as this Flower. Hawthorn. Hope. Hazel. Reconciliation. Heath. Solitude. Hellebore. Calumny. Hemlock. You will cause my Death. Hickory, Glory. Hoarhound. Frozen Kind ness. Holly. Foresight. Hollyhock. Fecundity. Honesty. Honesty. Plop. Injustice. Horse Chesnut. Luxuriancy, Hundred-Leaved Rose. Grace. Haydnth. Play or Games. Hydr anger. Boaster. I. Iceland moss. Health. Jce Plant. You freeze me. Indian Cress. Resignation. Iris. Message. Ivy. Fidelity. J. Japan Rose. Beauty is your only attraction. Juniper. Asylum. K. Kenncdia. Mental Beauty. King-Cup. I wish I was rich. L. Laburnum. Pensive Beauty. Lady s Slipper. Capricious Beauty. larkspur. Levity. Laurd. Glory. Laurel- Leaved magnolia. Dig nity. j Lavender. Assiduity. j Lemon. Zest. j Lettuce. Cold-Hearted. | Lichen. Solitude. i Lilac. Forsaken. | Lily of the Valley. Return of Happiness. Lime or Linden Tree. Con u- gal Fidelity. Live Oak. Liberty. I Lobelia. Arrogance. Locust. Vicissitude. i London-Pride. Frivolity. | Lotus -Floicer. Silence. I Love lies a- Bleeding. Hope less not Heartless. I Lucerne. Life. | Lupine. Voraciousness. 1 Ly thrum. Pretension. M. i Madder, Calumny, Maize. Plenty. Malloio. Sweet Disposition. Mandrake. Rarity. Maple. Reserve. Majoram. Blushes. Marsh mallow. Humanity Marygold. Despair. May Rose. Precocity. Meadow Saffron. My best days are past. Mignonette. Your qualities surpass your charms. Misletoe. Obstacles to be overcome or surmounted. Mock Orange. Counterfeit. Moss. Recluse. Moss Rose. Voluptuous Love. Motherwort. Concealed Love. FLORA S REVEALINGS. 117 Mountain Ash, Prudence. Mulberry Tree. Wisdom. Mushroom. Suspicion. Musk Rose. Capricious Beauty. Myrtle. Love. N. Narcissus. Egotism. Nasturtium. Patriotism. Nettle. Slander. Night Blooming Ccreus. Tran sient Beauty. Oak. O. Hospitality. Oats. The witching soul of music, hers. Oleander. Beware. Olive. Peace. Orange Floiccrs. Chastity. Orange Tree. Generosity. Osier. Frankness. P. Palm. Victory. Pansee or Heart s Ease. You occupy my thoughts. Parsley. Feast or Banquet. Passion Flower. Religious Superstition. Pea. An appointed meeting, Peach Blossom. I am your captive. Penny Royal. Flee away. Peony. Bashful shame. Persimon, Bury me amid Nature s Beauties. Pine. Pity. Pine Apple. You are per fect. Plum Tree. Independence. Pomegranate. Foolishness. Consolation to the Prickly Pear, Satire. Pride of China. Dissension. Primrose. Early Youth. Pyrus Japonica. Fairies Fire. R. Ragged Robbin. Wit. Red Mulberry. Wisdom. Red Pink. Lively and pure love. Rose. Genteel, Pretty. Rose, Acacia. Elegance. Rose Campion. You arc without pretension. Rosemary. Fidelity. Rudbcckia. Justice. Rue. Grace, or Purification. Rush. Docility. S. Saffron Flower. Do not abuse. Saffron Crocus. Mirth. Scarlet Flowered Ipomtea. At tachment. Scarlet Fuchsia. Taste. Scarlet Geran&m. Prefer ence. Scarlet Nasturtium. Splen dor. Scotch Fir. Elevation. Small White Violet. Candor and Innocence. Snap Dragon. Presump tion. Snow Ball. Thoughts of Heaven. Snow Drop. Consolation. Sorrel. Wit ill-timed. Southern Wood. Jest or Ban tering. 11 118 FLORAS REVEALIN 7 GS. Spanish Jasmine. Sensual- 1 ity. Stinging Nettle. Cruelty. Strawberry. Perfect Good ness. Sun Flower. False Riches. Sweet Briar. Petry. Sweet Pea. Delicate Pleas- i ure. Sweet Violet. Modesty. Sweet William. Craftiness. Sycamore. V^ 7 oodland Beau ty. T. Tansy. Resistance. Thorn Apple. Deceitful Charms. . Thyme. Activity. Tiger-Flower. For once may Pride befriend me. Tulip. Declaration of Love. Turnip. Charity. V. Verbena. Sensibility. Vernal Grass. Poor but Vine. Drunkenness. Virginian Spiderwort. Mo mentary Happiness. W. Watt Flower. Fidelity in Mis fortune. Walnut. Intellect. Water Melon. Bulkiness, Weeping Willow. Melan choly. Wheat. Riches. White Jasmine. Amiable- ness. White Lily. Purity and Mod esty. White Mullein. Good Na ture. White Oak. Independence White Pink. Talent. White Poplar. Time. White Poppy. Sleep of the Heart. White Rose, Dried. Death preferable to loss of Inno cence. White Violet. Purity of Sen timent. Willow. Forsaken. Willow Herb. Pretension. Winter Cherry. Deception. Witch Hazel. A Spell. Wood Sorrel. Maternal Ten derness. Wormwood. Absence. Y. Yellow Carnation. Disdain. Yellow Day Lily. Coquetry. Yellow Gentian. Ingratitude. Yellow Iris. Flame of Love. Yellow Rose. Infidelity. Yew. Sorrow. Z. Zinnia. Absence. 119 CHAPTER XII. ,-Ve add this chapter, which we have select^. jm Mrs. Laudon s Ladies Companion to the Flower farden, that our readers may have the benefit of ;er very excellent remarks on Planting, and on the Gathering and Preservation of Seeds. i* * 41. PLAN 7 TING. Planting is the operation of inserting plants in the soil, either in the free ground or in pots. The simplest kind of planting is that which consists in removing small seedling plants, or such as have been struck from cuttings or layers ; and this is commonly performed by making a round hole with a dibber, and putting in the root of the plant to the same depth as it had been covered with earth be fore, and making it fast by thrusting the dibber into the firm earth beside the hole, and pressing it to the root. In this operation, the great art is to make the root fast at the lower extremity. Thus, in planting common seedlings of annuals, or even cabbage-plants, if the earth be pressed close to the root at the upper part, and not at the extreme points, the success will hardly be complete ; and in tender plants, or in a dry season, a failure will be the re sult. In planting plants of a larger size, a small pit should be opened by the spade or trowel ; the bottom of the pit having been formed into a cone or small hill, the plant should be placed in the cen tre, and the roots spread out equally over it on ev- 120 PLANTING. ery side. The roots are then to be covered with soil gently pressed over them ; and the operatic n must be finished by watering, so as to consolidate the soil equally, without making it firmer on or e part of the roots than another. If the soil shou d have been previously dug, trenched, or loosened to the depth of a foot, or probably two feet or thrc e feet, the pit should not be made so deep as to thro *v the neck or collar of the plant below, or even on a level with the surface, when the soil is consolidate d by watering. On the contrary, it must be left of such a height above it, as that when the soil LS finally consolidated by its own gravity, influenced by the weather, the neck shall still be above tl e general surface of the ground, and the plant stai.d on a small hillock. This condition of planting can not be too carefully attended to ; for nothing c;.n be more injurious to transplanted plants than having the neck buried more than it was in a natural stat3. Nothing is more common than too deep planting ; and the temptation to it is the greater, because deep planted plants, from having the roots m<re accessible to moisture, are more certain of grov- ing the first year, and are less in want of mulch ing to exclude the heat and drought, and of staking to prevent them from being moved by the wind. Hence, in planting trees or shrubs, it is of the greatest importance, not only with a view to their future growth, but also to their natural appearance above the surface, to have them planted on little hillocks, greater or less in height, according as the soil may have been moved to a greater or less depth, either in the operation of digging the pit in firm soil, or in planting in soil which has been moved by digging, or trenching, or otherwise. ]n PLANTING. 121 small gardens it is generally desirable, for the sake of producing immediate effect, to plant plants of considerable size ; and in this case, in addition to the precautions which have been already men tioned, it is desirable to plant by what is called fixing with water. This operation is performed in the following manner : the hole being properly prepared, the plant placed in it, and the roots spread out on every side, and extended as far as they will go, one person holds the plant upright, a second sprinkles earth over the roots, and a third supplies water from a watering-pot, with a rose on, if the plant be small, and without a rose, if it be a tree of six feet or eight feet in height, holding the pot as high above his head as his arms will reach. The weight of the water coming down from such a height, consolidates the soil about the roots, and fixes them in such a manner, as to render the plant, if it has been carefully taken up, almost in the same state as it was in before removing. Large trees or shrubs, if planted in this manner in the autumn, and staked, where there is danger from high winds, will grow, and even flower and fruit, the following year, as well as if they had not been removed. In this kind of planting, with large plants, the hillock, left after the operation is finish ed, should not be less than a foot or eighteen inches above the surrounding surface ; and to lessen evaporation during the ensuing summer, the hillock should, if possible, be covered with short litter, moss, turf turned upside down, or even small stones, for the first year. In staking large plants of this kind, the stakes should be placed close to the stem of the plant, in which positior they are much less likely to injure the fibrous 11* 122 PLANTING. roots, than when placed at a distance from the tree ; and the stakes should be made fast to the stem of the plant, by a piece of straw or hay rope, or by a piece of twisted matting, or any kind of cord; the part of the stem to which the stake is tied, having previously had a small handful of straw, or moss, or mat, bound round it, to prever t the tie from galling the bark of the stem, and pre venting its increase during summer. These stakes should remain for a year, or sometimes two years, according to the size of the plant and its facility of making roots. In general, the sooner the stake s are taken away the better ; because the mo lion of the stem by the wind, is essential to its increasing in thickness. In this matter much must be left 10 the discretion of the planter, who must always be;,r in mind that a staked plant is in a most unnatural position; and also that if the tree should lean somewhat to one side for some years after plant ing, it will ultimately become more or less erect ; and that a strong, vigorous-looking plant leaning a little to one side, affords a greater evidence of rs being secure and in sound health, than a straight, erect plant, kept in that position by a stake. In the case of planting trees with steins three or four inches in diameter, in exposed situations, two or three stakes may be used, placed at a short dis tance from the base of the stem and leaning towards it; and where they are made fast, they should be joined by matting, hay-ropes, or some other soft material, so as not to injure or confine the bark. Before transplanting trees of a timber size, the main roots are frequently cut at the dis tance of five feet or six feet from the stem, a year previously to transplanting ; in consequence of PLANTING. 123 which, they send out fibres which in the course of the summer become small roots, so that when trans planted, the tree, instead of drawing its principal nourishment from spongioles at the distance of twenty feet or perhaps thirty feet from the stem, is enabled to draw it from the distance of six or eight feet, and thus to continue growing, though not with the same degree of vigor as if it had not been trans planted. Some kinds of trees, when of a large size, such as the Sycamore, the Lime, the Horse- chesnut, and a few others, may be transplanted without this precaution ; but in this case, the ope ration must be performed in autumn, as soon as the leaves have dropped, in order to give the roots time to form some fibres during the winter ; and the greater the distance from the stem at which the roots are cut, the greater will be the success. Large trees with wide-spreading roots when trans planted, seldom require to be staked, because the roots form a broad base, which prevents the stem from being blown to one side, Where there is danger anticipated from high winds, the tree may be secured by three guy-ropes tied to the upper part of the stem, and made fast to sakes driven into the ground at such a distance from the tree as that the ropes may form an angle with the ground of 45 ; or the stronger roots may be kept in their position by stakes driven into the ground with their heads beneath the surface of the soil, the main roots being made fast to them by cords. In all cases of transplanting deciduous trees, with the exception of the Beech and the Hornbeam, some pruning should be -given to the top, so as to lessen the number of branches and leaves which .are to be supplied by the root. The quantity of 124 PLANTING. branches that are required to be removed, will de pend partly on the kind of tree, and partly on the intention of the planter, but mainly on the climate and soil. Beech trees, as already mentioned, are injured when transplanted, by having many branch es removed, and often die in consequence. Syca mores, and all the Acer tribe, having numerous fibres near the main stem, require but little pruning of the head. The same may be said of the Yew and the Holly, the Lime and the Elm. When the object of the planter is to produce immediate effect by a bulky head, all the branches may be left on, whatever may be the kind of tree ; but in that case the tree will produce only leaves for a number of years, or if it produce shoots they will not exceed a few lines in length. Ultimately, if the soil bo poor and dry, the tree will probably perish; but if the soil should be good and moist, and the climate also moist, the tree will, in time, become vigorous, and produce shoots. Where the climate is moisi, and the soil good, and also moist, any tree may b<3 transplanted without pruning the branches ; be cause the fibres it will produce in such a soil and climate, will be sufficient to supply the moisture transpired by the leaves. But where the climate, is dry and the soil also dry, no large tree can bo safely transplanted with all its branches ; because the transpiration by the leaves will be much great er than the moisture which can possibly be absorb ed by the roots. Hence, in the dry climate of the Continent, all trees with stems above an inch or two in diameter, have their branches entirely cut off, always excepting the Beech and Hornbeam the Yew, and all the Pine and Fir, and Cypres; tribes. Even in this country, in Evelyn s time PLANTING. 125 this was the practice ; and the late Sir Joseph Banks, when he planted groups of trees with stems five inches or six inches in diameter, on a portion of Hounslow Heath, which was allotted to his resi dence there, planted only stumps ten feet or twelve feet high, which stumps are now finely-headed trees, conspicuous from the road in passing Spring Grove. Much has of late been written on the sub ject of transplanting large trees, by Sir Henry Steuart and others ; and the practice has been re commended of leaving on the whole of the head. Experience, however, hns proved that this can only be done with advantage, under certain circum stances. Planting in pots, when the plants are of the very smallest size, may be effected by a small dibber, as in planting in the common soil ; but it is more fre quently done on the principle of planting in pits ; that is, the pot being properly drained by a few potsherds being placed over the hole in the bottom of the pot, and an inch or two of soil placed over them, according to the size of the pot, the young seedling or newly-struck cutting is held with one hand, and soil sprinkled over the roots by a trowel with the other. When the pot is filled, the soil is consolidated by lifting the pot with both hands a few inches high, and setting it down once or twice with a slight jar ; afterwards supplying water so as to moisten the whole of the soil in the pot. The thumb, or a potting-stick, should previously be passed round the inner edge of the pot, so as to firm the soil round the rim ; otherwise the water is liable to run down round the edge of the pot, with out moistening the soil in the middle. Immediate ly after planting, the pot should be set in a position 126 PLAXTIXG. where it can be shaded during sunshine ; but on no account should tender plants be shaded during cloudy weather, or covered with an opaque cover ing during night, unless for the purpose of protect ing them from cold. Of course the after treatment of every plant in a pot must depend on its nature. ; all that it is necessary at present to treat of, is tho manner of planting. Transplanting plants which have already been grown in pots, is either effected by removing th ? ball or mass of earth containing the roots entire, or by gently breaking the ball in pieces, and stretch ing the roots out on every side. When the ball is not broken, the operation is called shifting. Plants are often reared in pots, on account of their tender nature when young, or for the convenience of transporting them to a distance, though they are in tended ultimately to be planted in the open ground. In almost all cases of this kind, the ball should b 3 broken, and the pit having been prepared with th-j greatest care, as in common planting, the fibrous roots should be stretched out in it as far as they will go on every side. Hence, a plant which has been grown in a very small pot, when it is to be transplanted into the open garden, may often re quire a pit three feet or four feet in diameter. There is not, perhaps, an operation in the whole circle of gardening, that affords a higher gratifica tion to the planter, than transplanting plants from pots when the pits and soil are properly prepared, and the roots carefully stretched out without being brujsed or broken. In consequence of the extra ordinary sources of nutriment which are thus af forded to the plant, and of the greatly increased power given to the roots, the shoots which it. PLANTING. 127 makes the first year are extraordinary, and evince a degree of vigor, which none but a gardener of ex perience, could believe possible. On the other hand, when a plant in a pot is turned out into a pit, however well the soil may be prepared, if the roots are not stretched out, it may remain for many years without growing much faster than it previous ly did in the pot. This is often the case with the more rare species of the Pine and Fir tribe, and with Magnolias and other plants kept in pots by nurserymen ; and it is further attended by this evil, that the plants are easily blown to one side by the wind. In the case of surface-rooted plants, such as Pines, if they have been some years in the pot, they never send out roots sufficient to keep them upright ; and hence the Pinaster and stone Pine, which are almost always kept in pots in British nurseries, are generally found leaning to one side, in plantations in this country. It is necessary, however, to make the distinction between plants newly planted in pots, and those which have been in pots for two or three years ; for the former may perhaps have few roots which have reached the sides of the pot, as in the case of China Roses struck and potted early in the season, and planted out the same summer, and which, of course, may be planted out without breaking the ball. The same observation will apply to all other plants in pots, that have not their fibrous roots somewhat woody ; and also to all hair-rooted plants, such as Heaths, Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Arbutus, and in general to all the Ericaceae, which having at no age large woody roots, may always be transplanted from pots with the balls entire. It may here be observed, that large shrubs of 128 PLANTING. almost all the Ericaceae may be transplanted j.t almost any age, with less danger than most other plants, as from the slender and fibrous nature of the great mass of their roots, they are less liable to injury than woody-rooted plants. All that is re - quired is, that they should be taken up with a large ball of earth, and that when replanted, they should be abundantly supplied with water. Hitherto nothing has been said especially appl - cable to evergreens, whether in the open ground cr in pots. These being at every season of the yetr more or less in a growing state, it is always desi rable to transplant them with balls ; and it is only young plants of evergreens, such as seedling Ho lies, Portugal Laurels, and young cuttings or layeis of the common Laurel, Laurustinus, Sweet Bay, Phillyrea, Alaternus, Junipers, &c., which can be sent to any distance with a certainty of growing without balls. The common Holly, when it is above three or four feet in height, requires to be taken up with a ball, and that ball carefully pre served by being tied np in a mat or, according to the Dutch practice, put into a basket of wicker- work. The same remark will apply to Arborvita-, Junipers, Arbutus, Rhododendrons, Box, Phillyreas, and even the common Laurel. The best season for transplanting all deciduous trees and shrubs, is the autumn ; because the plant has time to produce some fibres, and accommodate itself to its new soil and situation during the win ter, so as to be prepared to grow freely the follow ing spring. Evergreens may also be transplanted in autumn, or at any time in open, moist weather, during autumn, winter, or early spring. In dry or frosty weather, it is always dangerous to remove PRESERVATION OF SEEDS. 129 them ; because the sap in an evergreen is more or less in motion at every season of the year, and the plant is never so completely dormant as in the case of deciduous trees. Formerly it was thought that the best season for removing evergreens, was in the latter part of summer, shortly after they had completed their year s growth ; but this doctrine was only acted upon in the time of Miller and be fore, when there were comparatively few species of evergreens in British gardens, and it has been recently found by Mr. McNab, (see his Treatise on Transplanting Evergreens.} that evergreens may be transplanted with much greater safety in mild weather in autumn or winter, than at any other period of the year. Herbaceous plants may, in general, be transplanted at any season, when they are not in flower or coming into flower ; but the safest time for perennials is in autumn, after they have ripened their seeds and are going into a dor mant state. Biennial and annual plants are best transplanted when quite young, or after they have obtained their second or third pair of leaves ; and seedlings in general may be treated in a similar manner. In all cases of planting, (excepting with Cacti and other succulents,) the plants should be watered as soon as they are fixed in their new sit uations ; and when practicable, they should be shaded a few days from the heat of the sun. GATHERING AND PRESERVATION OF SEEDS. The gathering and preservation of seeds is an occupation peculiarly agreeable to persons fond of gardening ; partly, no doubt, because it contains so much of future promise, and on the same principle 12 130 PRESERVATION OF SEEDS. that sowing is universally considered a more exci- ting operation than reaping. The greater number of seeds of ornamental herbaceous plants are con tained in long narrow pods, called siliquez, o sillicles, such as those of the cruciferous plants ; or in leguminous pods, such as those of the Sweet Pea ; or of capsules, such as those of Campanula ; but a number of plants produce their seeds naked in tubes, such as the Scrophularinae ; or receptacles, such as the Composita ; and some in fruits more o less fleshy, such as the Fuchsia. All seeds may be known to be ripe, or nearly so, by the firmness of their texture, and by their changing from a white o greenish color, to a color more or less brown. There are, indeed, some seeds which are whitish when ripe, such as the White Lupine, and of several of the sweet peas ; and other seeds that are quite black, such as those of some Ranunculuses, but in general a brown color is characteristic of ripeness. Seeds should be gathered on a dry day, after the sun has had sufficient time to exhale all the moisture which dews or rains may have left on the seed-vessels In general, the pods, or capsules, should be cut off with a small portion of the stalks attached, and the whole should be spread out, each kind by itself, on papers, in an airy room or shed, from which rain and the direct influence of the sun, are both ex cluded. When the seed-vessels are thoroughly dried, they may be put up in papers without separa ting the seeds from them ; and kept in a dry place y rather airy than close, till wanted for sowing. Seeds preserved in the seed-vessel no doubt make comparatively clumsy packages, to seeds from which every descriptiou of husk or covering has been separated ; but in this clumsy state they are PRESERVATION OF SEEDS. 131 found to keep better than when cleaned. Never theless, when they are to be sown the following year, or sent any where in a letter, it is better to take them out of the covering, and render them as clean as possible, by passing them through sieves, with holes sufficiently large to admit the escape of dust, but not of the seeds. Such sieves, on a small scale, every lady may make for herself by turning up the edges of a piece of thin pasteboard cut in a circular form, and piercing the bottom with holes with a large pin or darning needle. When it is determined to separate the seeds from the seed-ves sels, instead of putting up the whole together, the vessels after gathering may be dried in the sun ; when many of the seeds will come out by the ex pansion of the seed-vessels in the heat, and the remainder can easily be nibbed out. This is the usual practice of nurserymen. For keeping seeds, a lady ought to have a small cabinet, which she might form herself of pasteboard, with as many drawers as there are letters in the alphabet ; and as her seeds are put up in papers, she can tie the packets of each genus by themselves, and put them in the appropriate drawer. Where so much trouble can not be taken, a large brown paper bag, or a canvass bag, for each letter of the alphabet, may be substituted. The period during which seeds will retain their vegetative powers differs in different families, gen era, and even species. Seeds of the Ranunculaceae and the cruciferae, will, in general, retain thetr vital ity for several years, in whatever manner they may be kept ; provided the situation be not such as will cause them to germinate. On the other hand, seeds of the Capsicum will keep for several years if re- 132 PRESERVATION OF SEEDS. tained in the berry, but will seldom grow the second year when removed from it. As a safe general guide, it may be adopted as a rule, that all seeds will keep three years, and grow, provided they are retained in the unopened seed-vessel ; that most seeds, if maturely ripened, and kept in a dry place in close paper packets, will grow the second year; and that all seeds whatever, whether kept in the seed-vessel, or exposed in open drawers like those of the seedmen, will grow the first year after being gathered. Mignionette seed will keep seven years ; but that of stocks and wall-flowers will not remain good more than two years, unless kept in the pod Sweet peas and lupines will, with difficulty, keep two years, while the seeds of Prince s feather and of poppies will keep several years. Larkspur sect: will seldom grow after the second or third year. Notwithstanding the length of time which some seeds will keep, it is generally advisable to sow their as soon after they are ripe as practicable, as fresh seeds always vegetate much sooner than old ones 133 CHAPTER XIII. THE WEATHER. The Weather is an important item, and we will add a few general rules to assist our readers in judging of its changes ; premising, however, that our rules are not always infallible. The weather is proverbially fickle in all her predictions and changes, and we can only seize upon such general prognos tics as experience has shown to be correct in ordi nary cases. Rule 1st. If the sun rise red and fiery, you may expect wind and rain ; if cloudy, and the clouds soon decrease, certain fair weather ; if in the morn ing some parts of the sky appear green between the clouds, while the sky is blue above, stormy weather is not far off. 2nd. CLOUDS small, strewed with dapple gray, with a North icind, bring fair weather for two or three days ; clouds that look like large rocks, por tend large showers ; on the other hand, if large clouds decrease, it is a proof of fair weather in summer or harvest time ; if clouds rise with great white tops, and joined together with black on the lowest side, especially if two such clouds arise, make haste for shelter. 3d. If MIST rises in low grounds and soon van ishes, it is a token of fair weather ; and if it rises high, or to the tops of hills, you may expect rain in a day or two ; a general mist before the sun 12* 134 THE WEATHER. rises, near the full of the moon, brings fair weather if this happens in the new moon, it brings rain ir. the end ; and on the contrary, if before the sur. rises, in the old moon, rain at the new moon. 4th. SUDDEN RAINS do not last long ; but wher. the air grows thick by degrees, and the sun ant. moon and stars, shine dimmer and dimmer, it is likely to rain for some hours. If it begins to rain an hour or two before sun-rising, it is likely to be fair before noon, but if the rain begins an hour o : two after sun-rising, it is likely to rain all that day, except the rainbow be seen before it begins to rain. 5th. SIGNS OF RAIN. The air is inclined to rain when, at night, you hear the sound of bells, the noise of water, or of beasts of any kind, or any other noises, unassisted by the direction of the wind, more plainly than at other times. The sink ing of rivers, more than usual, at some seasons, is ;i certain presage of much rain to follow, and the re verse after the fall of much rain, indicating dry weather. If the earth or other moist places emit any extraordinary smell, rain follows. Dews lyiri<.>; long in the morning, signify fair weather; small dews, and they soon vanishing, rain. If the colors of the rainbow tend more to red than any other color, wind follows ; if green or blue, then rain. 6th. THE WIND. It has been observed in Eng land, that in eight years together, there was as much north-west wind as there was north-east, and con sequently as many wet years as there was dry : whether the same holds good in our country, has not been correctly ascertained, but with some care it could easily be proved. When the wind blows from the north-east, and continues two or three days without rain, and hath THE WEATHER. 135 not some south the third day, it is likely to continue north-east for eight or nine days, all fair, and then to come south again ; if it turns again out of the south to the north-east, with rain, and neither turns south nor rainy the third day, it is likely to continue north-east a considerable time. Fair weather for a week, with a southerly wind, is likely to produce a great drought, if there has been much rain out of the south before. The wind usually turns from north to south, without rain ; but returns to the north with a strong wind and rain ; the strongest winds are when it turns from south to north-west ; a north-wester generally brings clear weather, and begins by blowing hard. Wind blowing from the sea, is observed to be always most cool in summer, and warm in winter. When the wind changes with the sun, that is, from East to South, from South to West, it seldom goes back ; if it does it is only for a short time ; but if it moves in a contrary direction, that is from East to North, from North to West, it generally returns to the former point, at least before it has gone quite round the circle. When w r inds continue to vary for some hours, as it were to try in what point they were to settle, and afterwards begin to blow constant, they continue for some days. If the South wind begins to blow for two or three days, the North wind will blow suddenly after it ; but if the North wind blows for the same number of days, the South will not rise till after the East has blown a while. Whatever wind begins to blow in the morning, it will continue longer than that which rises in the evening. OTHER PROGNOSTICS. If the last eighteen days of February and the first ten days of March, be 136 THE WEATHER. rainy, then spring and summer quarters are likely to be so. If the latter end of October and begin ning of November, be for the most part warm an 1 rainy, then January and February are likely to be frosty and cold, except after a very dry surr- mer. If October and November be frosty, thei January and February are likely to be open and mild. Generally, a moist and cool summer portend s a hard winter; a hot and dry summer and autumn, especially if the heat and drought extend far into September, portend an open beginning of winte , and cold towards the latter part of it and the begin ning of spring. A warm and open winter portends a hot and dry summer, for the vapors disperse in the winter showers, whereas cold and frost keep them in and convey them to spring and summer. Birds that change countries at certain seasons, show the temper of the weather according to the country whence they came ; as in the winter, pigeons, wild ducks and geese, &c., if they come early, they come away from a hard winter, and when swallows come early, it is followed by a hot summer. 137 CHAPTER XIV. BOTANICAL EXPLANATIONS. From Flora s Interpreter. FLOWERS. There are seven elementary parts in a flower or, proper ly speaking, flower and fruit. 1. Calyx. The outer or lower part of the flower, gen erally not colored. 2. Corol. The colored blossom of the flower, within or above the calyx. 3. Stamens. The mealy or glutinous knobs, generally on the ends of slender filaments. 4. Pistil. The central organ of a flower; the base of this becomes the pericarp or seed. 5. Pericarp. The covering of the seed, whether pod, shell, bag, or pulpy substance. 6. Seed. The essential part, containing the rudiments of a new plant. 7. Receptacle. The base which sustains the other six parts, being at the end of the stem. Any accidental appendage is a nectary. The form and po sitions of these organs, and of no other part, are employed in distinguishing the Classes, Orders, and Genera. Double flowers are formed by changing the stamens into petals. Botanists term these vegetable monsters. 138 BOTANICAL EXPLANATIONS. INFLORESCENCE, OR MANNER OF FLOWERING . 1. Whorl. An assemblage of flowers surrounding the stem or its branches, constitute a whorl or ring: this is see i in the Mint and many of the labiate plants. 2. Raceme, or cluster, consists of numerous flowers earn on its own stalk or pedicle, and all arranged on one commo i peduncle; as a bunch of Currants. 3. Panicle, bears the flowers in a kind of loose subdivide J bunch or cluster, without any regular order; as in the Oa . A panicle contracted into a compact, somewhat ovate form, as in the Lilac, is called a Tltyrse, or bunch; a bunch if Grapes is a good example. 4. Spike. This is an assemblage of flowers arising fron the sides of a common stem: the flowers are sessile, or with very short peduncles; as the Wheat and the Mullein. 5. Umbel, several flower-stalks, of nearly equal length, spreading out from a common center, like the rays of a;i umbrella, bearing flowers on their summits ; as Fennel an 1 Carrot. 6. Cyme resembles an umbel in having its common stalks all spring from one center, but differs in having those stalks irregularly subdivided ; as the Snow-ball and Elder. 7. Corymb) or false umbel when the peduncles rise from different heights above the main stem ; but the lower ones being longer, they form nearly a level, or convex top ; as, the Yarrow. 8. Fascicle, flowers on little stalks variously inserted and subdivided, collected into a close bundle, level at the top ; as the^ Sweet William. 9. Head, or tuft, has sessile flowers heaped together in a globular form; as in the Clover. CLASSES AND ORDERS. 139 10. Amenl, or catkin, is an assemblage of flowers composed of scales and stamens, arranged along a common thread-like receptacle ; as in the Chesnut and Willow. 11. Spadix is an assemblage of flowers, growing upon a common receptacle, and surrounded by a spatha, or sheath; as in the Egyptian Lily. CLASSES AND ORDERS. THE explanations of these must necessarily be very brief; my aim being rather to stimulate curiosity respecting the sub ject of Floral Botany, than to impart instruction in the sci ence. A few general facts, and a few of the first terms, are all that can be given. Flowers in the Linnsean system are divided into ticenty-four Classes. These Classes are divided into Orders. Orders into Genera ; Genera into Species ; Species are frequently changed into Varieties. The first ten classes are distinguished by the number of their stamens ; thus, 1. Monandria, 1 stamen ; Flowering Reed is the only one of this class given. 2. Diandria, 2 stamens ; Lilac, Sage, Jasmine, etc. 3. Triandria, 3 stamens ; Crocus, Iris, Oat, etc. 4. Tetandria, 4 stamens; Witch-Hazel, Holly, etc. 5. Pentandria, 5 stamens; Violet, Flax, Woodbine, etc, 6. Hexandria, 6 stamens; Lily, Sorrel, Aloe, etc. 7. Heptandria, 7 stamens; Horse-chesnut, etc. None of this class given. 8. Octandria, 8 stamens; Nasturtion, etc. 9. Eneandria, 9 stamens ; Laurel, etc. 140 CLASSES AND ORDERS. 10. Decandria, 10 stamens; Rue, Pink, Hydrangea. 11. Dodecandria, 12 to 19 stamens; Mignonette, etc. 22. Icosandria, 20 or more, standing on the calyx. Ro.<e, etc. 13. Polyandria, always 20 or more, on the receptacle ; B it- ter-cup, Larkspur, Peony, etc. 14. Didynamia, 4 stamens, 2 ofthem uniformly the longest; Fox-glove, Balm, Thyme, etc. 15. Tetr adynamia, 6 stamens, 4 of them uniformly the lor g- est; Gilly-Flower, Honesty, Queen s Rocket, etc. 16. Monodelphia, stamens united by their filaments in one set, anthers being separated ; Geraniums, Hibiscus, etc. 17. Diaddphia, stamens united by their filaments in two sets ; Rowers papilionaceous, or butterfly-shaped. 18. Polydclphia, stamens in two sets, united at the bottom by the filaments ; Orange, St. John s Wort, etc. 19. Syngensia, stamens 5, united by their anthers in one set, flowers compound ; China-aster, Daisy, etc. 20. Gynandria, stamens stand on the germ, style or stigma, separate from the base of the calyx or corol; Orchis, etc. 21. Monacia, stamens and pistils in separate flowers on the same plant; Amaranth, Pine, Nettle, etc. 22. Dia>.da, stamens and pistils on separate plants ; Yew, etc. 23. Polygamia, stamens variously situated ; sometimes on flowers with pistils, sometimes stamens only; Mim osa, etc. 24. Cryptogamia, the flowers of this class are invisible to the naked eye ; Lichen, Moss, etc. ORDERS. 141 ORDERS. The first thirteen orders are distinguished entirely by the number of pistils, The names of these orders are, Monogyria 1 pistil. Heptagynia 7. Digynia 2. Octagynia 8. Trigyuia 3. Enneagynia 9. Tetradyginia 4. Decagynia 10. Pentagynia 5, Dodecagynia 12. Hexagynia 6. Polyginia, many pistils. The 14th Class has ( 1 Gymnospermia seed naked. 2 orders \ 2 Angiospermia seed in capsules. 15th Class-2 orders- 5 J Siliculoso-pod short. & feiliquosa pod long. 16, 17, 18th Classes In these the orders are determined from the number of stamens. 19, Class 5, orders 1. Equalis. 2, Superfua. 3. Frustanea. 4. Necessaria. 5. Segergata. 20, 21st Classes. Orders have the same names as the pre ceding classes. 22d Class has 8 orders ; the first seven named from the num ber of stamens the 8th, Monodelphia, because the stamens are united in one set. 23d Class has 3 orders. MoncBcia stamens and pistils in sep arate flowers on the same plants. D mcia stamens, etc. as different plants. Tricecia on three flowers. 24th Class is divided into 6 families Felices, (ferns;) 2. Musci, fcnosses;) 3. Heptaicce, (liverworts;) 4. Alga, (sea weeds;) 5. Lichenes, (lichens;) 6. Fungi, (mushrooms.) 13 142 TO PRESERVE FLOWERS AND PLANTS. POISONOUS PLANTS. 1. Plants with five stamens and one pistil, with a dull-co - ored lurid corol, and of a nauseous sickly smell, always po - sonous. As, tobacco, thorn-apple, henbane, nightshade. 2. Umbelliferous plants of the aquatic kind, and a nauseoi s scent, are always poisonous. As, water-hemlock, cow-pars ley. But if the smell is pleasant, and they grow on dry lane!, they are not poisonous. As, fennel, dill, coriander. 3. Plants with labiate corols, and seeds in capsules, fr< - quently poisonous. As, snap dragon, fox-glove. 4. Plants from which issue a milky juice on being broken, are poisonous, unless they bear compound flowers. A^, milk-weed, dogbane. 5. Plants having any appendage to the calyx or corol, ai;d eight or more stamens, generally poisonous. As, colum bine, nasturtion. Plants with few stamens, not poisonous, except the num ber be five ; but if the number be twelve or more, and tLe smell nauseous, heavy and sickly, the plants are generally poisonous. TO PRESERVE FLOWERS AND PLANTS. Place the specimens in a close, dark room; when the plants are nearly dry, press them, in small quantities envel oped in paper, till the oil appears on the surface, which you will know by its discoloring the paper ; then do them up in clean paper bags, and they will retain their fragrance, color, and medicinal properties, for years, HOME USE CIRCULATION DEPARTMENT MAIN LIBRARY This book is due on the last date stamped below. 1 -month loans may be renewed by calling 642-3405. 6-month loans may be recharged by bringing books to Circulation Desk. Renewals and recharges may be made 4 days prior to due date. ALL BOOKS ARE SUBJECT TO RECALL 7 DAYS AFTER DATE CHECKED OUT. .PR 2219?$ f T,r>9,i A-40m-8 75 General Library YA