The Propagation of g Qrnamental Plants Texas A&M University The Texas Agricultural Experiment Station, H. O. Kunkel, Acting Director, College Station [Blank Page in Original Bulletin] L. Methods of Plant Propagation ........................................................................................... -. 3 Sexual Propagation ......................................................................................................... .. 3 Asexual or Vegetative Propagation ............................................................................. .. 3 Propagation by Seed ....................................................................................................... ._ 4 Sources of Seed ......................................................................................................... .. 4 Types of Seed ........................................................................................................... .. 4 Annual Flower and Vegetable Seed ............................................................ .- 4 Herbaceous Perennials and Woody Plant Seed .......................................... .. 4 Seed Dormancy .......................................................... ..; .................................................... .. 4 Treatments for Hard to Germinate Seed ......................................... ................. .. 5 Seedcoats Impermeable to Water ................................................................ -- 5 Sulphuric Acid Treatment .................................................................... -. 5 Hot or Boiling Water Treatment ........................................................ .. 5 Mechanical Scarification ........................................................................ .- 5 Dormany of the Embryo ....................................................................................... .. 5 Seed Sowing Procedures ......................................................................................................... .. 7 Sowing Seed Outdoors ..................................................................................................... .. 7 Sowing Seed Indoors ....................................................................................................... -. 8 Propagating Medium .............................................................................................. .. 9 Sowing Seeds ............................................................................................................ ..l0 Transplanting Seedlings ........................................................................................ -.l0 Vegetative Propagation ............................................................................................................ .-l0 Propagation by Cuttings ................................................................................................ ..l0 Rooting Media ................................................................................................................. “l3 A Simple Self-Watering Home Propagator ........................................................ “l3 Sanitation ................................................................................................................... .-l3 Watering Methods ................................................................................................... ..20 Rooting Substances ................................................................................................... --20 Types of Cuttings ............................................................................................................ ..20 Greenwood or Softwood Stem Cuttings ............................................................ ..20 Leaf-bud Cuttings .................................................................................................... ..2l Leaf Cuttings ............................................................................................................ -.2l Hardwood Cuttings ................................................................................................. ..2l Root Cuttings ............................................................................................................ ..22 Propagation by Layering ________________________________________________________________________________________________ .22 Ground Layering ..................................................................................................... -.22 Air Layering ......... -- .. ............................................................. -.22 Propagation by Division or Separation ........................................................................ ..24 Rapid Multiplication of Bulbs and Other Modified Stems .................................. .24 Propagation by Grafting ................................................................................................. .24 Propagation by Budding ....................................................... ... ..................................... .-27 Transplanting and Care of Growing Plants ............................................................ ..27 Mist Propagation ............................................................................................................. -.28 Mist Systems ..................................................................................................................... ..30 Controlling Propagation Environment With A Plastic Structure ...................... ..3l _ Propagation of Plants Adapted to Indoor Landscapes .................................................... .32 [Blank Page in Original Bulletin] ‘ ' F , ‘Alzf: 4/45 Usus. l n0 ._ be!‘ P. ‘ " .2}- t Q . v ; ' r multiplication of plants has always been 'mportance to the nurseryman and flower _' a fascinating aspect of horticulture, it »-- the favorite hobby of gardeners and tiers who like t0 reproduce plants. ..- gardeners were no doubt propagating . various methods long before recorded me of the basic technique-s employed then Tr in use today, but the methods have im- latly through the centuries. Success is now _, rule because changes have continually f in propagation as well as in all aspects l science. it inquiries into the physiology of plant , e been responsible for dramatic new de- Old beliefs have been changed by modern g scientific investigation and the use of new i Due to this increase of knowledge and A t of new methods and modern materials, or who is careful and follows instructions ‘i eral, be quite successful in the multipli- rden and landscape plants. . propagation today is much more than 1 manual dexterity. The amateur as well l ' ional plant propagator must keep abreast , rch being done to be assured of continued as and the Southwest the climate offers y challenges to, the home gardener as well yessional plantsman. At this time there is uction of easy-to-propagate, rapidly grow- j of plants in smaller sizes and the usual iwell grown specimens of oaks, hollies and ts of rarer varieties. A demand for such jects, however, is likely to continue. A lely few peop-le, including professional g and propagators, are willing to take the i The Propagation of Ornamental Plants A. F. DEWERTH, Professor, Department 0f Soil and Crops Sciences time and effort required to produce finished land- scape plants of slower growth and usually more desir- able quality. Plant propagation is important to satisfy the present demand of gardeners in the varied climatic regions of Texas from the sub-tropical Gulf Coast and the Rio Grande Valley to the colder winters of the Panhandle; and from the forest areas of East Texas to the arid regions of West Texas. METHODS OF PLANT PROPAGATION Sexual Propagation Propagation by seed is a sexual process; many flowering ornamental plants can be increased rapidly in exceedingly large numbers by this method. A commercial propagator with five marigold seeds of a certain variety can produce several hundred pounds of seed in several successive harvests. Sexual propagation which is an easy and rapid method of increasing plants that produce seed which germinate readily might well be the only method of plant propagation except for several important reasons. Some plants, especially hybrid varieties developed by plant breeders, do no-t produce seed or are sterile. Other hybrid varieties may produce seed abundantly, but the resulting offspring produced by these seeds will not resemble the parent plant. In the language of the horticulturist, these plants do not “come true” from seed. And lastly, in many woody ornamental plants, the seed produced is difficult or almost im- possible to germinate without specific and time con- suming treatments of various kinds. Asexual or Vegetative Propagation Science has shown that every plant, as well as every other living organism, is made up of comb-i- nations of living cells. Each individual cell has all the potential of the entire plant of which it is a part. 3 Except for some of the lowest forms, members of the animal kingdom do not at present have the ability to form a whole animal from a small part. The higher animal forms cannot regenerate any lost part of the living organism. However, any portion of a plant when severed from the parent and placed in the right environment has the potential to regenerate not only lost p-arts but become a complete new plant exactly like the parent. This capacity for regeneration in the higher plant forms is the basis of asexual plant propagation. There are many different types of vegetative propagation. Some occur naturally such as bulblets produced at the base of the leaves of certain lilies, on the sides of the mother bulbs on tulips or by runners such as those found on many ferns. Other types of asexual propagation have been greatly improved or devised by horticulturists. Those most important and most widely used at the present time are: stem cuttings, leaf and leaf bud cuttings, root cuttings, layering, division, separation, grafting and budding. Vegetative propagation is often both necessary and desirable to perpetuate the hybrid characteristics of the parent plants or to propagate plants that pro~ duce seed that is difficult to germinate. In many cases vegetative propagation is used to increase desirable new varieties in a shorter period of time or to produce mature plants more rapidly than they can be produced from seed. Propagation by Seed The most universal method of prop-agating orna- mental plants is by seed. All commercial horticul- turists or home gardeners at one time or another grow plants by this method. But the techniques employed and results vary greatly. However, scientific research has developed certain simple procedures that, when carefully followed, can insure the successful increase of many kinds of plants from seed. The types and kinds of ornamental plants usually propagated by seed are annual flowers, herbaceous perennials, many woody trees and shrubs and most palms. Sources of Seed Many years ago home gardeners saved seed from the plants in their own gardens. Today this practice is hardly worth the time and effort involved. The greatest number of present day ornamental woody plants, garden annuals and perennials and vegetables are hybrids of mixed ancestry that will not come true from home collected seed. Results from such seed are usually disappointing. Commercial seed producers grow seed by special techniques that insure they will produce the exact kind of plant desired. Seed purchased from reputable seedsmen are much more satisfactory and, except for certain rare plants or new varieties, are very reasonably priced. 4 Seed should be sown when fresh. mental plant seeds will not stay viable f than l year-a few kinds remain for eve periods of time. I Types of Seed i Annual Flower and Vegetable See When properly sown Titand placed in _ environment, flower and vegetable seed p germination problems. 1 Herbaceous Perennials and Woody Pla v Seed of some woody plants may pr 7_ nation problems. The simple germination, used in growing annual flowers and vege are often unsuccessful for many perennials - plant seed. There are various reasons wh these seed are difficult to germinate. i, gator must understand the factors involv creation of these problems so that such w. handled in the proper manner. i Seed Dormancy Environmental factors such as moi perature, oxygen and, in some cases, light h _ influence on seed germination and must » balance for this process to take place germinate seed as well as difficult ones. Dormancy is a term applied to the i, a viable seed to germinate readily. The be due to unfavorable environmental co to factors within the seed itself. j Oxygen and water are necessary V“ germination but for all plant growth. Th ments will be discussed later in outlining ments for the germination of all types of” Some seed of woody and herbaceo plants have peculiar temperature and ments. Most seed will germinate in eit_ darkness, but a few require light for ;; others are inhibited by it. Most seed in this group will germi wide range of temperatures, but others l specific requirements. Dormancy caused by internal conditi overlooked by plant propagators and may for failure in growing woody plants from: Perhaps the most common cause for r dormancy is the presence of a hard seq; coat serves as a protective covering, but it 5 germination by excluding air and wat seed. In some cases it has prevented t a and growth of the embryo plant within other seed, the food storage tissue wi a called the endosperm acts like a hard g In some seed the embryo or immatu i in the seed may not be completely o y _i time the seed is shed from the parent pl cases, there are ways to speed up ger uf this condition exists. Seed will gennina gas had an opportunity to develop and vorable humidity and temp-erature. In 's may require 2 years, in others, 3 years. , e causes of dormancy in seed are the ones. In other seed however, more vonditions may also occur such as after ter the seed is ripe, a period of time I before the seed will germinate. The , condition are not fully known. N0 I,» physical and chemical changes must seed to germinate, and the exact nature is not yet understood. agators need not be unduly concerned ‘enomenon since after ripening can be e or accelerated by placing such seed in environment for certain periods of time. l» tment is called stratification. 'onal cause for dormancy in seed is shoot rmancy. After the seed are sown and arm temperature, the roots appear; but f» the plant fails to develop, the seed are Lin a temperature of about 40° F. for Vs. gwoody plant seed, dormancy may also a comb-ination of two or more of the hibit germination. This type of dor- overcome only by submitting the seed ‘treatments. ‘r Hard to Germinate Seed oats Impermeable to Water thods are commonly used to treat seed- not be penetrated by water: Soaking in ,1 soaking in hot water or dipping for f period of time in boiling water; and , rification or nicking. / methods have been found to be effective exas A8cM University and elsewhere. y ge is lacking on any hard-coated seed, ethods can be used on a trial basis. I Treatment i treated with sulphuric acid is placed {glazed pottery container; then co-ncen- j commercial grade is poured into the e best practice is to use a volume of equivalent to from three to five times q the seed. The important consideration 9 seed covered with acid. iwill tend to float to the surface of the should be stirred occasionally to get 1 equally on all, sides. l the seed is soaked in the acid varies ‘es of seed. But even within the same in y be a variation in the time required ¢or burn off the hard seedcoat. at seed has been treated in the acid for riod, the seed is removed; the excess 5o f; and the seed plunged into a large volume of cold water. Then the seed should be washed for 15 to 20 minutes in running water to water to remove all traces of acid. Sulphuric acid treatments are usually made pre- ceding planting. It is always well to let the seed soak overnight in a large volume of water after it is washed and before it is placed in the soil or strati- fied. The treated seed will absorb a large quantity of water while soaking and will be ready to germinate immediately after p-lanting. Hot or Boiling Water Treatment These treatments have also been found to be very effective in making the seedcoat permeable to water. One method is to heat the water to between 180 and 200° F.; remove it from the source of heat; and plunge the seed into it. The water and seed are then allowed to cool together. Then the seed is left to soak overnight or until it absorbs enough water to swell. This method is very effective on some seed, but it fails on 0-thers. The use of boiling water on seed is much more effective than this first method, but greater care must be exercised. When improperly handled it is very easy to kill or damage the seed. The seed to be treated is placed in a cheese cloth or muslin bag and dipped into the boiling water from periods varying from 30 seconds to 2 minutes (rarely any longer than 2 minutes), depending upon the seed to be treated. Since this treatment is very brief, seed must be removed as quickly as possible. A convenient way of handling this is to tie a long piece of string or twine to the cloth bag so that it can be removed quickly and safely from the boiling water at the end of the specified time. Mechanical Scarification This is an inexpensive and often effective way of making the seedcoats of some seed permeable to water. The purpose of such treatment is to wear off or scratch the seedcoat with some mechanical device. When only small numbers of seed are to be treated this is often done by scratching or nicking each seed with a needle point, knife, 3-comered file or some similar tool. When large amounts of seed are used, a scarifier of some type may be constructed to save time. The basic principle of a scarifier is a large, rough surface against which the seed can be thrown, blown or rub'bed with sufficient force to scratch the seedcoat well. Dormancy of the Embryo Embryo dormancy is the most common cause of a natural delay in seed germination. Seed which has a dormant embryo must complete after ripening before it has the ability to germinate. SEED PROPAGATION TREATMENTS FOR SOME TEXAS LANDSCAPE PLANTS NAME 0F PLANT RECO M MEN DED TREATMENT REMARKS Albizzia julibrissin (Silktree albizzia) Cercis canadensis (Redbud) Chilopsis linearis (Desert Willow) Diospyros texana (Texas Persimmon) Diospyros virginana (Common Persimmon) Duranta stenostachya (Brazil Skyflower) Ligustrum japonicum (Japanese Privet—Commonly called Wax Privet) Magnolia grandiflom (Southern Magnolia) Melia azedarach (Chinaberry) Paliurus spina-christi (Christ-thorn) Pithecellobium flexicaule (Texas Ebony) Poinciana gilliesi (Paradise Poinciana) Prunus caroliniana (Carolina Laurelcherry) Prunus mexicana (Mexican Plum) Quercus virginiana (Live Oak) Rosa bmcteata (Macartney Rose) Sapindus drummondi (Western Soapberry) Break seedcoats by any of the following methods: Nick with knife, dip in boiling water for 30 seconds, or soak in full strength commercial sulphuric acid for 15 to 30 minutes. Soak in full strength commercial sulphuric acid for 20 minutes. Stratify in moist peat at 35° to 40° F. for 60 days. Use freshly gathered seed; soak in water several hours before sowing. Fall planting: Soak seed in concentrated sulphuric acid for 30 minutes, wash thoroughly and plant. Spring planting: Keep air-dry at room tempera- ture, until ready for planting. Stratify freshly cleaned seed in moist peat 36° to 41° F. Seeds will be ready for planting in 30 days. Soak in concentrated sulphuric acid for 15 minutes. Best germination will be with fresh seed. Stratify at 41° F for approximately 120 days. These seed germinate at this temperature and must be closely watched. Stratify cleaned seed 8 to l0 weeks at 41° F. Seed- coats will show splitting when stratified long enough. Seedlings grow slowly. Start in greenhouse in mid-winter, line out in nursery in late spring. Stratify cleaned stones for 120 days at 41° F. Each stone has about 4 seed. When sown without crack- ing, germination is not hindered. Seed do not germinate at stratification temperatures. (See Albrizzia julibrissin) Stratification for 30 to 60 days at 41° F is also effective. Use freshly gathered seed. Soak in water several hours before planting. Use freshly gathered seed. Soak in water until seed swell before planting. Stratify cleaned seed 120 to 130 days at 45° to 50° F. Seed must be watched closely as stratification period is often shorter with some seed. It will show germi- nation in storage temperatures. Stratify air-dry seed at 31° to 41° F for 60 days in moist peat and sand before planting. Fall planting: Pick ripe acorns from tree or gather within 10 days after falling. Plant immediately. Spring planting: Store in sealed jars 36° to 41° F until ready for planting. Soak cleaned seed in concentrated sulphuric acid for two hours. Then stratify for 60 days at 41° to 45° F. Treat cleaned seed with concentrated sulphuric acid for 3 hours or dip in boiling water for thirty seconds; repeat dip 3 times. Stratify for 120 days at 41° to 45° F. If sulphuric acid is used, wash water for l0 minutes after seed from acid, then soak in fresh I eral hours, ljefore sowing. Ge p to 10 days.‘ "5 e When seed is removed from -' running water for 10 minutes. f water for several hours before Germination—10 days to 3 weei Germination—9 to 30 days. Stratification of freshly cleaned :-l to this species after 1 month _ Germination—20 to 30 days. These seed will not germinate a peratures and can be left in y until spring without damage. Gerrnination—40 to 60 days. Stratification of berries or clgai of no value. Germination-IS to 30 days. _ Seed must be cleaned before Stratified berries gave no germi? Germination—l5 to 30 days. To remove fleshy red pulp on '_ water for 2 or 3 days. Then i seed in fresh water. Empty will float. Good seed will sink Gerrnination—20 to 40 days. l Stratify clean seed, not berrif will germinate erratically foll when fall sown. Stratified percent germination. g Germination-JO days to 3 w -, Nicking with a knife is prefe Germination—7 to 20 days. Grow in containers. They difficult to dig because of tho Germination—9 to 30 days. Germination-10 to 30 days. Fresh cleaned seed will some . well without stratification in * not sow or stratify berries. Germination—-l5 to 60 days. Seed will germinate at stratiF-l tures. They must be watch i? Germination-IS to 40 days. At warm temperatures, the V viability in about 2 weeks i] Germination-BO to 50 days. f Seed will germinate at strati: tures. They must be closely fication without seedcoat t w] value. i Germination—10 to 40 days. 7 Stratification without seed of no value. They have hard seed. Seed genninati Allow plenty of time. v Germination-SO to 60 days. 1 RECOMMENDED TREATMENT REMARKS planting. Y g herculis i lyash) . r hours before sowing. Fall planting: Freeze in ice for 2 weeks before Spring planting: Keep air dry at room temperatures for at least 3 months before planting. Use fresh seed when possible. Touch seed t0 emery wheel or soak in concentrated sulphuric acid for 30 minutes 0r dip in boiling water for 30 seconds. Use fresh seed whenever possible. Soak fresh seed in concentrated sulphuric acid for 30 minutes. Older seed require longer. WVash in running water and soak for several hours before sowing. Treat seed for 45 minutes with concentrated sul- phuric acid, wash in running water and soak several Seed germinate readily after air-dry storage for 3 months at room temperatures. hard seed for 60 to 90 days at 41° F is beneficial. Stratification of Germination percentages for both treatments were over 80 percent. Germination—30 to 60 days. Soak seed in water for 24 hours after any of these treatments. Retreat any seed that do not swell after this treatment. Germination—7 to l0 days for fresh seed. Stratification at 41° to 45° F for 90 days is also effective with older seed after treatment. Germination—l0 to 50 days. Stratification is not as successful as seed treat- ments. Seed germinates slowly. Give plenty of time. Germination—20 to 40 days. There are two seedlings per stone. Germination-SO to 50 days. takes place in the seed only at the ture and in the presence of abundant gygen and moisture. For most native and others used for landscape pur- an average temperature of 41° F. is ter ripening to take place. i: cial practice the handling of dormant is period of after ripening is done by which is accomplished by mixing the -. nd, moist peat moss or a mixture of of moist (not wet) peat moss is most use it has a large water holding capacity i terfere with the air supply of the seed. ed is thoroughly mixed with the strati- y it is placed in flats, pots, jars or any if t containers and stored in refrigerated the temperature can be controlled dur- q ning period. Never pack the medium ication. This has a tendency to inter- 1 aeration. of any period of stratification varies t stratified. The recommendations for i only an approximate or an average 1 exact or standard period. Seed in ould always be watched carefully be- 1 Ctor. ~ will germinate at these low tempera- after ripening process has been com- 'nated seed is" always difficult to handle l, so the seed should always be removed mination when possible. This time etermined by close observation from Areas of the country, fall planting is a titute for stratification. However, in most areas in Texas where cold weather can seldom be depended upon, stratification in controlled tem- peratures is the only dependable method of germi- nating seed which have a dormant embryo. SEED SOWING PROCEDURES Sowing Seed Outdoors Annual, biennial and many of the commonly grown herbaceous perennials can be grown from seed sown outdoors. Under Texas conditions in the warmer sections of the state, annuals can be sown both in the spring and fall. Lists of those to be sown at each season are given in Tab-le 1 and Table 2. Seed can be sown outdoors in the spring as soon as the woody deciduous plants begin to leaf in the area. Fall sown sorts can be planted from September through October in most sections of the state. The simplest method of growing plants from seed outdoors is to sow the seed directly in the garden. Spade or till the area and rake the surface until it is completely level. When the existing soil in the garden location is heavy clay or exceptionally sandy, success in growing plants from seed can be assured by adding liberal amounts of organic matter to the soil. Work this material such as peat moss, well rotted pine bark or other organic materals that are well decomposed into the top 4 inches of soil before leveling the surface. Seed can be sown either in rows or broadcast. Very small seed should not be handled in this manner and are best started in containers and then trans- planted. Sow the seed at a depth equal to twice the size of the seed which will result in the seed being covered at about the depth of the seed. Water the seedbed thoroughly with water applied with a mist nozzle so the seed will not be washed out of the soil. 7 When the seedlings appear, thin them out t0 the desired distance by eliminating the weak p-lants or by transplanting some of the stronger seedlings at the proper spacing. When a specially prepared seedbed in the garden or nursery is used, seed should be sown in rows about TABLE 1. ANNUALS TO BE SOWN IN THE SPRING: FEBRUARY TO APRIL Common and Germination Height Spacing scientific name period (days) (inches) (inches) Arctotis Arctotis grandis 15-20 24 12-18 Floss Flower Ageratum houstonianum 8-12 6-24 6-9 China Aster Callistephus chinensis 8-10 24 12 Moonflower *Cal0nyction aculeatum 5-8 120-240 l0 Feather Cockscomb Celosia argentea 20-25 24 24 Spiderflower Cleome spinosa 10 36 24 Cosmos Cosmos bipinnatzts 5-15 36-72 24-36 Golden Cosmos Cosmos sulphureus 5-15 36-72 24-36 Globeamaranth Gomphrena globosa 20-25 12-24 6-8 Sunflower Helianthus annuus 15-20 39-36 24 Balsam . Impatiens balsamina 10-12 18-24 12-18 Sultan Snapweed Impatiens sultani 8-12 24-36 18 Morning Glory ‘Umpomoea purpurea 5-8 180 10-12 Summercypress Kochia scoparia 15-18 36 12-18 Four O'clock Mirabilis jalapa 12-15 18-24 24-30 Petunia Petunia hybrida 18-20 12-24 9-12 Portulaca Portulaca grandiflom 18-20 6 4 Cypressvine Starglory *Q_uan20clit pinnata 10-15 180-300 8-12 Castorbean Ricinus communis 15-20 36-144 24 Scarlet Sage Salvia splendens 15-25 24-36 12-18 Sweet Scabious - Scabiosa atropurpurea 18-20 24-30 8 Aztec Marigold Tagetes erecta 5-8 30 18 French Marigold Tagetes patula 5-8 12 18 Blackeyed Clockvine "“Thunbergia alata 8-10 72-96 6-8 Blue Torenia Torenia fournieri 18-20 8-12 6-8 Verbena Verbena hybrida 8-10 12 12 Periwinkle Lochnera rosea 30-35 12-24 10-12 Zinnia Zinnia elegans 5-8 12-36 12 "“Indicates vines. 8 inches apart. Sp-ace the seed in the ro one-fourth to one-eighth of an inch apart d upon the size of the seed. a If the bed has been prepared so the fine structure, draw it fro-m the sides of the cover the seed. If not finely prepared, cover with screened soil or peati-Y- moss. Firm the, over the seed and water it in well with I applied in mist form. When the seedlings have reached sui i: they should be transplanted immediately in nent locations. Seed can be started a month or so earl season in the colder areas of Texas by sowin in specially constructed structures such as c or hot beds. These structures are identi‘ that in hotbeds b-o-ttom heat is supp-lied t A use of soil cables. The frames are construe 1 foot high on the front side, 2 to 21/2 other, 6 feet wide and any length in m_ 3 feet so that a 3 X 6-foo-t sash can be used a ing. The sash can be either plastic or gl f The procedure for sowing seed directli structures is the same as that used in speciall; 4 beds outdoors, or when containers are u ‘v . prepared the same as those used for sowi g doors. a When growing seedlings in frames or _ sash should be raised during midday to pri lation and p-revent the temperature within from becoming too high. As the season ad, sash can be removed during warm sunny; replaced at night. Eventually it should entirely. The seedlings should be removed structures and transplanted as soon as the enough to handle. ‘ Sowing Seed Indoors Sowing seed in pots, flats or other l, indoors in various environments is mu t? to outdoor sowing since weather conditi f jeopardize the results obtained. I Success in raising seedlings indoors def the availability of optimum cultural r ; DECEMBER l NUALS TO BE SOWN IN THE FALL: SEP- ~ and Germination Height Spacing p, name period (days) (inches) (inches) pensis 15-20 12-18 8-12 mexicana 20-25 24-36 6-8 2m majus 20-25 12-80 12 iberidifolia 20-25 10 5-6 A ciosa 18-20 18 8-6 officionalis 10-12 30 12-18 p} cyanus 5-20 30 6 moschata 5-20 24-36 8-12 gans 8-10 80 6-10 stillmani 8-10 24 10-12 115810-55 10-12 8e 12-18 - r _m ajacis 15-20 24 8-12 r plumarius 5-8 12 8-12 ld theca aurantiaca 15-20 12 8-10 'a californica 5-10 l2 8 i pulchella a 12-15 18-24 12 jmoena 10-25 12-24 12 J paniculata 15-20 18-24 8-12 i m bracteatum 5-10 24-30 12 m roseum 8-10 18 6.8 nnia folia 10-12 24 8-10 uft _- ra 5-8 12-18 6-8 uft i bellata 5-8 12-18 6-8 i odoratus 15-20 85-72 8-5 bipartita 8-10 12 8-12 maritima 18-20 8-12 0-8 pubescens 25-30 24-36 12 i incana nual 110-15 12-18 12 a niaritima 10-15 s-8 8 Irylvatica 15-20 12 6 ' menziesii 6-8 6-12 6 ,~ acco “ alata i andiflora 20-25 36 24 Love-in-a-Mist Nigella damascena 10-15 18 8-12 Evening Primrose Oenothera speciosa 10-25 12-24 8-12 Shirley Poppy Papaver rhoeas 15-20 24-36 6-8 Petunia Petunia hybrida 18-20 8-12 9 Annual Phlox Phlox drummondi 20-25 12-18 8 Mignonette Resedra odorata 8-10 18 8 Pincushionflower Scabiosa atropurpurea 18-20 24-30 8 Butterflyflower Schizanthus pinnatus g 20-25 24 18 Blue Laceflower . Tmchymene coerulea 8-10 24 12 Nasturtium *Tr0pae0lum majus 8-15 6-120 12 Pansy Viola tricolor 8-10 6 4-6 Verbena Verbena hybrida 8-10 12 12 These are easily controlled in a greenhouse, but in other indoor situations the following cultural require- ments must be provided for the adequate germination of the seed and the subsequent development of the seedlings. These are a location with sufficient sun- light or light provided by artificial lamps; a tempera- ture of 68° F for germination; and 55 to 60° tem- peratures for proper seedling development. (Tem- peratures above 60° or low-light intensities will result ~in weak, spindly seedlings which will be difficult to handle.) Facilities must permit frequent and adequate watering. Propagating Medium Research with various propagation media during the past 12 years at the Texas Agricultural Experi- ment Station has shown that a mixture of horticul- tural grade perlite and sphagnum peat moss, in equal parts by volume, is an excellent medium for germi- nating seed and growing seedlings. When properly prepared, this medium holds suffi- cient moisture with infrequent watering; provides sufficient aeration; is free of weed seed, soil borne insects and diseases; and is light in weight, clean and easy to handle. In preparing the mixture, be sure the ingredients are measured accurately and are thoroughly mixed so that all constituents are well distributed through- out the entire volume. These materials are practically inert and, for this reason, adequate slowly available nutrient materials must be added. The home gardener can prepare this propagating medium on a small scale by using the following formula: one-half bushel horticultural grade perlite, one-half bushel coarse sphagnum peat moss, 3 ounces of 20 percent super-phosphate, 6 ounces of dolomitic limestone and 3 ounces of a complete garden fertilizer with a 1-1-1 ratio. Since the individual ingredients named may be difficult to obtain in small quantities, it may be cheaper and easier for the home gardener to purchase them already mixed. However, he should be certain that the mixture contains like ingredients. Sowing Seeds Be certain that the fertilizer materials are dis- tributed evenly during mixing. Then wet the mixture thoroughly. This medium provides excellent drain- age, yet it has adequate moisture-holding capacity for good germination and rooting and prevents loss of roots when seedlings or cuttings are removed because of the capacity to cling to the roots. This practically eliminates transplanting losses. The materials can be sterilized easily by heating in a closed container in the oven until steam rises from it. Fill the propagating flats or pots level with the top edge with the mixture and firm the material very lightly. Where very fine seed are to be sown, screen one- sixteenth of an inch of the peat-perlite mixture or screened sphagnum moss on the surface, sow the seed and do not cover them. If larger seed are to be sown, the layer of peat or sphagnum moss is not required. Mark out the rows, sow the seed and cover them with a thin layer of the peat-perlite mixture. Place the seed flats or pots in a cellophane or polyethylene bag and seal it with a staple or pin. Do“ not place the covered flat in a sunny location. When the seed has germinated, remove the containers from the bag‘. Do not water until the surface of the mixture shows real signs of dryness. Then water lightly. Transplanting Seedlings When most seedlings begin to grow they produce small seed leaves called cotyledons. These are followed in a short time by the first true leaves that have the characteristics of the leaves produced by that par- ticular plant. The best time to transplant seedlings is when these first true leaves are visible. Transplanting operations cause a temporary check in the growth of the seedling which results in a more compact plant. Seedlings should be lifted from the starting containers a few at a time using a blunt pencil or small flat stick such as a plant label. Then each seedling should be planted into larger containers or into the plant bed or garden. To avoid damage to the plants in handling, hold them between the thumb and forefinger by the leaf rather than by the stem. The roots of the seedlings should not be exposed to the air any longer than necessary. The depth at which seedlings are planted is very important and dependent upon the type of seedling being transplanted. There are two types of seedlings. Type number 1 has an upright stem having the growing point at l0 the tip. Type number 2 forms a rosette l growing point at the base of a cluster of 5 The type number 1 seedlings may be » deep as the first leaves since the growing r at the tops of the stems. This type can v5 deeper than they were growing originally ' tional roots will develop along the stem on L covered by soil. ‘ Type 2 seedlings must be planted at p? same depth they were in the seed cont’ the growing points are at the center of I leaves at the soil line. When not planted depth as they were growing originally, Q points will be buried, and the seedlings I When transplanting the seedling, fi ll gently but very firmly around the roots, -l them in well. VEGETATIVE PROPAGATIO When a plant is reproduced from the o parts of that plant, the process is referred t0 or vegetative propagation. This is possif reproduction of plants because in many tached vegetative portions have the capaci s,“ erate either a new root system, a new g or both, or are able to unite with another i _ One decided advantage of vegetative y is that the plant propagated will be id the parent plant from which the vegetati was removed, while seedlings may vary y Propagation by Cuttings Any severed vegetative portion of a pl a cutting. In propagation by stern cuttin necessary for the cutting to develop a new a since a bud or potential shoot system _ present. Root cuttings must produce n} extended new root system but also a new from an adventitious bud. Leaf cuttings‘ duce both an entirely new root system system as well. This regeneration of entirely new syst development from vegetative cuttings is I green plants because many cells, even so found in the mature portions of the pl ' capacity to return to the meristematic or ~ tiated condition and thus produce the n’ and shoot systems. j Many factors are involved in the succ gation of plants by cuttings. It has oft that all plants could be propagated by viding the right combination of internal factors could be attained. ~ Since internal factors vary greatly fr_ season and from one time of year to anothj rooting of cuttings is greatly dependent f attention and control of external condip must fit the internal conditions of the‘ the time rooting is being carried on. Sczesuao FEAT on SPHAGUUM M055 ll 2V1 CLAY Fl-owEJZ. POT ,_ s sczeenev PQI~T 0'1- ~5P“*Q“u”‘ Mos %~T §, Pekl-Pre. smuxu. Con‘ ounce»; o2 Pek GRAVE-L- Sclrggpgu FEAT oz, spukquum MoSS fl§ FEAT ¢ PeauTE. '<'.r:’“"""v*~ RQQAL, W TAMP 2A0» LAYER- L-HQHTLY A s A wash Pin t. Penuve CHARCOAL. on. PEA qgm/EQD 1 Q1 ' - ‘NG ckBLi ’o-r BED AND COLD FRAME PROPAGATION 0F SEEDS seed 5owin9 Mamas ll 12 F|rs+ ‘Prue Raf F|rs+ ‘Hue l: /% Cbl-kedon v xAGT-ounny Pmrrf \\ Type 2 Seedhngs ‘iii-iii ‘In {Tbnsplanfing , .A seedlmgs grasp ‘Hwem b3 2f, Oraqmal ’ leaf as shown - no‘? - _ _ Sod level b3 +he s+em. Sm| level +232‘ 2 5 m s Mus+ fie regse? a ‘ Jep“: as oruamal Soul | I. TY|>€ 1 5¢ed|m 5 Can be res€+ +0 Shown bq defied hne TRANSPLANT! N c; internal factors necessary for successful root- ings can readily be divided into two groups, A and physiological. t ical factors control the healing of the de in making the cutting and the presence itials in the cutting, or its ability to form logical factors are associated with food T“ ins and unclassified or unidentified factors. sets of factors are variable in plants. A _ propagator is one who is willing to accept rs and tries to select and handle cuttings ; way as to offset deficiencies that exist or t develop in his particular situation. al factors are also readily divided into two vironmental and cultural. ionmental factors are those associated with _ e rooting medium and in the atmosphere, _ in the atmosphere and in the rooting temperature and light. V ral factors include the rooting medium, leaf i use of synthetic growth regulating sub- ". position of the basal cut. ‘ gh these and other cultural factors are they are not often limiting factors to i rooting. In most cases the limiting factors i be those of environment. Rooting Media J genial medium for the cuttings during the ' rooting is of utmost importance. A rapid ,_ of suberin at the wound is essential. This imakes oxygen necessary, but moisture must ' esent in the proper amount at all times. fis a fatty substance impervious to water i, that forms rapidly to cover and protect the the wound or cut.) g commercial basis materials used in the T~~ of a propagating media have traditionally ively inexpensive; easily accessible; retentive ~ -; open in structure to insure good drain- t e from toxic substances and readily decay- " 'c matter. For these reasons sharp sand ost widely used propagating medium for s; yet research has repeatedly shown that 1- is not the best medium for rooting cuttings. iterials alone or in combination with sand _ superior for this purpose. rch conducted at Texas A8cM University for rs has shown that a combination of horti- ade perlite and coarse sphagnum peat-moss , equal parts by volume produced better re- J any other media used for practically all plants. gs of most ornamental plants formed heavy ,1: rapidly in mixtures containing acid peat. lts were obtained when horticultural grade u added to the peat in the proportion The research project on propagating media demonstrated that many different products that are inert, coarse and easily accessible may improve sand as a rooting medium. The perlite and peat mixture holds sufficient moisture without frequent watering and drains well, providing sufficient air at the base of the cuttings. It is important that the medium, regardless of the materials used, be no deeper than 4 to 5 inches. A shallow medium allows for maximum drainage and provides sufficient oxygen to the rooting regions. Vermiculite, a type of expanded mica ore, is another coarse material now widely used as a propa- gating medium. It, like perlite, is coarse, friable, inert, sterile, clean, pleasant to handle and easy to obtain. It also is available at any garden supply store under a variety of trade names, but one word of caution must be made in the use of vermiculite as a propagating medium either alone or in mixture- with other materials: It must not be firmed after the cuttings are stuck, or ‘both drainage and aeration will be impaired. Other media that can be used for propagation at the discretion of the propagator if, they are‘ steam sterilized before use are: ground pecan hulls, pine bark and locally harvested peats or mucks. A Simple Self-watering Home Propagator When only a few cuttings are to be propagated -or when only a few rare cuttings are available for rooting, a self-watering propagation unit can be em- ployed. This unit can be constructed in the following manner. Place about 2 inches of coarse gravel in an 8-inch azalea pot. Next fit a cork in the drainage hole of a 3-inch clay pot and then place this pot in the center of the 8-inch pot and pack the rooting medium in between the two pots. Note: If vermiculite is used, fill this space, but do not pack it. Water the medium in well with water containing a few drops of a wetting agent. Then stick cuttings in concentric rings in the space between the pots and water them in well. Fill the 3-inch pot in the center with water; it will serve as a reservoir and wick from which water will move by capillary attraction throughout the rooting medium. Keep the 3-inch pot refilled at all times. Sanitation Texas climates, both outdoors and in the green- house, make sanitation measures essential to success in the propagation of plants. Sterilization of the propagating medium by either steam or chemical soil fumigants is positively essential in these environments or the medium used must be renewed after every second or third crop of cuttings. l3 Materials required for seed propagation. L 0 H .d e e S II 0 n O fi G r» G p e r P 14 Subirrigate seed flat. Sow seed in ro-ws. Place planted seed flat in cellophane bag. Remove flats from bag as soon as seed germinates. Seedlings ready for transplanting. Allow seedlings to develop one set of leaves. Plant seedlings into pots or open ground with dibble. Established potted seedlings ready for planting in permanent location. . ‘F. ~41» o" » < a‘ i‘; Prepa ration of self-watering propagator. Materials required for self-watering propagator. Insert cutting into Make the cutting. '°°fi"9 medium- i self-watering ” filled with cuttings. Propagation media trials under intermittent mist. Cuttings rooted in various media under intermittent mist. Outdoors, soil-borne diseases of several kinds readily work into propagating beds and cause com- plete loss of cuttings unless clean or fresh materials are insured after each use. The cost of the materials and labor required for sterilization or fumigation are small compared to the loss of a large number of cuttings. Watering Methods A convenient supply of water is required for propagation by cuttings so that the cuttings can be misted or fogged at frequent intervals during periods of hot bright weather. Any type of device that will produce mist or fog can be used for this purpose. A fog nozzle on the end of a hose or any of the small atomizers now used for sprinkling clothes are ideal for this purpose. Any method will work which can be devised to apply the water in a very fine mist so that the rooting medium does not receive enough of the moisture supplied to become soggy. Recent research in plant propagation has developed a system of rooting cuttings by keeping them moistened intermittently with a fine mist spray of water since an important factor in rooting cuttings is to keep the cuttings moist. This method will be described in detail later. When this mist is supplied continuously from 8 a.m. until 5 p.m. daily, it is called constant mist. If a clock-timer is used to turn the mist off and on at stated intervals, it is known as intermittent mist. If no timer is used, the amateur gardener can turn his mist on when he leaves for work and cut it off when he returns in the evening, or on bright days he may let it run until sundown. The amount of water saved by the use of a clock-timer, however, will soon pay for the cost of the timer. There are many advantages in the use of mist by the home gardener. A cutting continues to lose water by transpiration after it is removed from the parent plant. It is impossible for the cutting to take up sufficient water to replace that lost b-y transpira- tion until new roots have formed. The mist system prevents excess water loss by the cutting. Maintain- ing a higher water content in the cutting aids the plant in forming roots and reduces the time required for rooting. A mist system also reduces the incidence of insect and disease problems in cutting beds, but unfortu- nately it does not solve all the propagation problems. Rooting Substances During the late 1930's, research with several synthetic chemicals showed them to be of value in shortening the rooting time required on cuttings of many ornamental plants. These materials have since been widely available under proprietary names in any garden supply store. They have become known as root-inducing substances; although, this is largely a misnomer. They might be defined as synthetic chemicals which have hormone or auxin like effects 20 upon cuttings since they may stimulate certa' i factors in cuttings. _ True plant hormones are complex o stances produced by leaves and found in of buds. These hormones are transport vascular system and may influence the root's! of cuttings. Many successful p-ropagators n“ synthetic chemicals regularly. Carefully sel tings of wood of the correct age treated pro these materials will generally produce he systems in a shorter p-eriod of time than f cuttings. ii These chemical compounds are not i‘ for skill, nor will they induce difficult-to-r ‘ to produce roots, but they may aid in red time required for the cuttings to root. j The propagator must still control th ment into which the cuttings are placed wit care he would exert if no stimulant were ful attention must be given to temperature,’ moisture and light to keep the environme mum balance. The ro-ot inducing action of these slowed by low temperatures. The tem the rooting medium should be maintain,- 70° and 80° for best results. f The cut end of the cuttings should‘; dusted with these materials, and the cutti be inserted into the medium carefully to i bing the dust from the cuttings. The ch be in solution and be absorbed by the cu 1 effective. A Types of Cuttings Greenwood or Softwood Stem Cuttings Leafy tips of plants that are still im non-woody can be used for softwood cutt increase of most nursery and garden plan é Texas. The terms softwood or green v hardwood and hardwood refer to the ha t wood or stem at the time the cutting is Usually the half-hardening of growth . after the first flush of growth in the sprir wood that yields excellent cuttings of the type. This type of cutting can be taken f the spring or early summer during the at; season. It roots easier and more rapi other two types, and it is probably the 3 the amateur propagator to begin with. A Softwood cuttings can be used for A tion of deciduous or evergreen shrubs, tr I ers and herbaceous perennials. a Semihardwood or evergreen cutting later in the summer growing season or in They should be selected at the point V, where the growth is firm enough to ~ twig is bent sharply. If the wood be not snap readily, it is considered too ol a semihardwood cutting. I a than the hardness of the wood involved, f; and considerations for both softwood A dwood cuttings are the same. 'c investigations have shown that cuttings i plants will root more readily than com- pings from older mature p-lants. In addi- taken from the lower portion of a woody y will root more readily than those clipped l‘ regions of the plant. It is acknowledged ‘i of rooting increases as cuttings are taken _ the root systems, providing those cuttings i me state of vegetative growth. ches that have formed after the growing ’ main stem have been pinched out make _; . In selecting wood for cuttings, avoid f owth, including weak shoo-ts formed on i of the plant. ring the cuttings for insertion into the i medium, begin at the base of the cutting e bottom leaf or leaves that may touch . medium from the cutting. The upper t sets of leaves on the cutting should be ,1» enable the cuttings to produce a heavier in a shorter period of time. Research has ‘the time honored practice of removing e upper leaves on cuttings actually pro- 'me of rooting since the supply of food jormones and vitamins present in larger decrease the rooting period. - cases, however, when the tip leaves of are extremely large they must be re- _ - somewhat to economize the space in _i ting bench. ttings should then be placed in the an upright position so the lower leaves e the propagating medium. Firm them _ vermiculite is used. Also, water the i ell to insure that the medium is in close i the bottom end of the cutting. Leaf-bud Cuttings c investigation has shown that stored ls and hormones are richest in the plant ‘closely associated with the buds. These j ore, present good propagating material i the amount used may be extremely small red with a standard cutting with long l These research findings lead to the de- ~ what is now called the leaf-bud cutting 'th a single leaf atttached is cut from the as though it were to be used for chip his cutting is then placed in the propa- ,um. The cut stem tissue and axillary ely covered, and the untrimmed single tend a‘bove or lie flat on the rooting imilar to stem cutting, the leaf area on tings should not be reduced unless this cure the best value from the bench sp-ace The time required for leaf-bud cuttings to form a heavy root system and a new shoot will be depend- ent upon the season, the cultivar and the environment of the propagating area. An 18-inch piece of stem from a woody plant may yield only four regular stem cuttings, but the same shoot might yield 20 or more leaf-bud cuttings. In general, it is best to take leaf-bud cuttings in the spring from shoo-ts that are non-woody after the first flush of spring growth. Leaf-buds from woody or hard stems with large amounts of sap do not respond well. Leaf Cuttings Most woody plants have a shield of stem tissue that contains an axillary bud at the juncture of the leaf or petiole with the node. Certain herbaceous plants grow from a crown or circular stem at the soil surface. Peperomias and several members of the Gesneriad family such as African violets, episcias, gloxinias and many begonias may be increased ‘by placing the leaf with its petiole in the rooting medium. This differs from a leaf-bud since no stem tissue or bud is included in the cutting. Several begonia types such as Rex and Lorraine and some other greenhouse plants such as kalanchoe‘, peperomia, crassula and other succulents can be propa- gated from leaves or leaf fragments. Pieces of san- sevieria leaves can also be used as leaf cuttings. Certain bulbous plants in both the amaryllis and lily family will form small bulblets when a fleshy leaf is placed base down in a rooting medium. Hardwood Cuttings Many woody trees and shrubs can be propagated by hardwood cuttings made in the late autumn, winter or early spring. Hardwood cuttings are made of mature branches of deciduous plants when they are dormant and the leaves have fallen. This method of propagation requires more patience than the others since hardwood cuttings root slowly, sometimes re- quiring 6 months to a year. Hardwood cuttings can be made of deutzia, for- sythia, kolkwitzia, honeysuckle, privet, philadelphus, fig, grape, deciduous fruits, rose understocks and others. Some deciduous plants, however, cannot be propagated satisfactorily by this method and are propagated from seed or by budding and grafting. Some examples are named fruit tree varieties, most nut trees, oaks and maples. Hardwood cuttings are prepared by cutting the tip of a branch back to a place where the wood is about the size of a lead pencil. Make the cuttings 6 to 9 inches long and include at least two nodes on each cutting. Make the lower cut on a slant just below the node. Tie each kind of cutting into a bundle of from l0 to 25 cuttings with the bases of the cutting even. Then attach a label marked with the name of the plant and the date on each bundle. 21 Dig a trench in a well-drained garden location. Place the cuttings in the trench and cover them with about 2 inches of soil in frost free areas. In areas where the ground freezes, bury the cuttings at least 6 inches deep. Cuttings stored in this manner will get enough moisture to keep the plant tissues from drying out. When the weather turns warm in the spring, the cuttings will have fonned callus or rooted. Then they can be set out in the open ground. When the cuttings are removed from the trench in the spring, wash them off and untie them. Protect the cuttings with moist burlap or paper towels so they do not dry during the planting period. Place them in a cutting bed or nursery row so that about 2 inches or one node is above the surface of the soil. Firm the soil well around the cuttings and water them in. Root Cuttings Root cuttings can be made from the roots of any plant that produces adventitious buds or sp-routs from the roots. The root-ts used as cuttings will not show any visible buds, but they will develop after the cuttings are stuck in the medium. Expose some of the larger roots of the plant with care and trace them down until they are the sizes of a pencil or smaller, lift these small roots and cut them into pieces about 3 inches long. Fill a box or flat to within l inch of the top with the propagating medium recommended for softwood cuttings. Lay the root cuttings horizontally on top of the medium about 2 inches apart. Cover them with about one- half of an inch of the propagating medium and water them in thoroughly. Plants often propagated by root cuttings are perennial gypsophila, oriental poppy, Japanese anem- one, trumpetcreeper, blackberry and raspberry. Another method of producing plants from root cuttings is to drive a sharp spade deep into the soil around the roots of established plants of coralberry, crapemyrtle, roses, plumbago and yucca. Small plants will then arise from the cut ends of pencil-size roots. These new plants can be dug after the following season’s growth and transplanted as new plants. Propagation by Layering Ground Layering Oneof the most reliable ways to increase shrubs, vines and sometimes small trees is by layering. In this method of vegetative propagation a stem is in- duced to form roots while still attached to the parent plant. This is a simple method in which branches are notched and brought into contact with the soil to make them root. When the roots are formed, they can be detached from the parent plant and planted as new individual plants. The simplest method of ground layering is to mound moist, light soil about the growing shoots of a plant during a favorable season, which supplies an environment conducive to root production. Shoo-ts 22 on a plant that can be readily layered growths that bend easily and will separat old plants later without damage. If the , to be layered do not have a suitable sup pliable stems, they should be cut just ground. Then sprouts will be availablet - year. ._ In any o-f the several methods of grou select a low growing branch that can be A to the soil. It is usually advisable to wo - where it is to be covered with earth. Thii‘ notch inhibits the free movement of f0 through the stem and induces root forma ‘i The bark may be broken or scraped , inch or two; a ring of bark may be y‘ pletely or a tongue can be cut and a w with a pebble, sliver of wood or a peg. ,_ soil should be heaped over the wounded f peg, brick or some other weight used I branch in firm contact with the soil. T anchoring is extremely important because i is moved about during watering and ;, with the earth is broken, rooting may nev . Water must be applied often in order i soil moist and insure the formation of j root system. - Layering should not be done before la y very early spring. Many tender plants ground by frost may be increased readilf layering these old plants. Light sandy soilg up over the crown of the plant. Wh moisture is provided, all the shoots sho abundantly and be ready to separate an as individual plants at the end of t, growing season. » With any type of ground layering quired for an adequate root system to o; with the plant species, the temperature -_ and the moisture condition of the soil. -i Earth can be removed carefully y for inspection of the buried portion ev two. When many roots about 3 to 4 in present, cut the shoots away from pare place them in containers or transplant A vidual plants. The various kinds of ground layerii in the sketches. -f Air Layering Air layering, also referred to as Chi f marcottage, pot layering or massing off i highly interesting and well proven pro, nique. It is an excellent method for i plants, choice trees or shrubs and tropi is also a method often used on plants cult or impossible to root by other m, Many indoor landscape plants sue bachia, dracaena, ficus and crotons that. the lower leaves can be given new w- this method. HAggvx/OOD CUT-flhlqs l “b CuTTINGS A MA\L€T cu-rnnq A uizu cu-nmq A smqus eve A snmPuE swam ¢°TT"“§ ;S¢¢Tvuoop QQTfHQQ cuTTlnCi v ‘fkoolntb Ana D ‘UTO PBGPAQA-fuqq ¢ if QLaAF coTTmq » LEAF Bun Cu-rwmqs v | Y PE 5 0F- CUTTINGS 23 Select a branch from the size of a pencil up to an inch in diameter. Make a slanting cut o-ne-third of the way through the stem just below a node. Insert a piece of wooden matchstick or round toothpick in the cut t0 keep it from closing. Dust the cut lightly with rooting stimulant dust, wrap the stem around and above and below the cut with a mass of moist sphagnum moss about the size of a baseball. Enclose this sphagnum ball completely with polyethylene film and bind it securely above and below the ball with string or plant tie. Kitchen grade aluminum foil can be used in place of polyethylene film, but this will make it more difficult to determine when rooting has taken place. Roots will fo-rm quickly and abundantly in the moist sphagnum moss and roots will ap-pear in a month or two. Then the layer can b-e removed from the parent plant and planted in fresh soil. Propagation by Division or Separation Division is a propagation method widely used with herbaceous perennials, bulbs, tubers, rhizomes, stolons, some shrubs, some palms, bamboos and other grasses. This is an easy and rapid way of increasing plants, and for many in this group it is essential to keeping them vigorous and healthy over a period of years. Herbaceous perennials in most instances in- crease in diameter by producing new stems and roots usually around the outer perimeter of the previous ' year’s growth. These older plants are referred to as clumps. These clumps increase in size gradually until they are too large for the space in the garden allotted to them. All of the plants that can be propagated in this manner, except in the case of large specimen palms, are dug and shaken free of soil. It will then be apparent that the clumps can be divided into units or small plants each having roots, stems, buds or leaves. These units are readily separated and planted as individuals, where they are to grow permanently. Plants are best divided after their blooming period, but with care this type of propagation can ‘be done at any time of the year. Bulbous plants that live from year to year should be left undivided until flower production begins to dwindle. The season after the foliage dies down, the bulbs can be dug, divided or separated and re- planted. The same procedure can be followed for plants producing corms, tubers, rhizomes or stolons. These can be handled the same way either annually or every several years. The cluster palms such as some Phoenix, Chrys- alidocarpus and Caryota species can be divided by carefully separating the small clusters as they appear at the base of the older plants. These suckers can be potted and handled in the same manner as small seedlings or rooted cuttings. 24 Rapid Multiplication of Bulbs and Other Modified Stems Many types of garden plants are gro’ bulbs, corms, rhizomes, tubers and tu'ber These include tulips, narcissus, iris, lilies, crinums, cannas, hyacinths, anemones ranun several others. ‘- i True bulbs and corms, for the most propagated by separating the slabs or offse time they are dug. These small bulblets ore are reset and treated as individual plan. usually reach blooming size in 2 to 3 years. In the modern garden such Texas fa, amaryllis, crinum and other bulbs are now i named varieties. Many of these improv do not form offsets or bulblets readily. , methods have been devised to make rapid 3 cation possible. ; These methods of rapid propagation be practiced when the growth cycle of th beginning. if One method is t0 cut the bulbs into l ‘ sections so that each section contains a f . stem tissue. These wedges are then inse propagating medium in pots, flats or boxes _I placed in a warm humid atmosp-here. Smi will soon begin to form between the fle They will usually be large enough to n end of the growing season. Members of the genus Lilium, the e produce scaly bulbs that are composed of m i attached fleshy scales. These plants can -’ increased by placing detached scales in fla propagating medium. Small bulblets will . at the base o-f the scales and produce u; plants in 3 o-r 4 years. ' Propagation by Grafting Grafting is an ancient and fascinati § plant propagation. This is a horticultu in which a short piece of stem bearing 0 Y growth buds taken from one plant is another plant to fonn a union. ' When a graft is successful and the b -' from it, it produces flowers and fruits like from which the stem piece was taken. The g of the p-lant below will continue to produ flowers and fruits asbefore. 1 An individual who ‘becomes interest ing must understand well three terms f to the process. These words are: stock, i cambium. Stock is used to indicate the - which the graft is made. Scion is the pi containing one or more growth buds that into the stock. Cambium is the soft layer i a stem that lies between the bark and f Through cell division, this layer has the i produce new bark tissue on the outside tissue on the inside. ' Kvrncuen Pom. o2. PoLYETHYLENB Flt-M PpAuT ‘HE oz. 51am q Ana Lavezmq 2 suck. or; a, PM ‘H? Laxezanq Mount? Lmaaunq saaweu-nu: LAYER-l nq Meflnods of Layering S C8‘ propaga-Hon Llhes Bu“: S<_IorFn9 Hqacurfihs Division of ca|adium =4 3 . Separa-hon of Gladiolus COFFHI8+S DiviSicn O-F '_ H erbaceous Pe ‘ D-\v;5',°n 01c J-qberous roo+5 <> Dahlla A 1 ‘A ‘N3 " Ifkwiiifloiis l‘ I f"? , m” J4 . - ‘ / ' % .\: I'M - ' n , “I ‘ \ V \ ’ / y \ j - “ _\‘\‘ > / _ ‘\ ' , ' . I > / h ,1 \ and Divislofl i \ \ 5ef>ara+i¢>n 26 i ic principle in grafting is to join a section ibium layer of the scion with the cambium he stock as completely as possible and to tock and scion together so that a unio-n I between the two cambium layers. rious types of grafts that can be made are i e illustrations. In all grafting methods, sunion between stock and scion must be ' om the air with some type of sealing agent. pethod for the amateur is to use a manu- ater base asphalt emulsion that come-s in I used for stock and scion must have a close ilationship, but even some closely related w varieties are not compatible. ous trees and shrubs can be grafted any the dormant season. In most cases it ‘isfactory if it is done before buds begin é late winter or early spring. Most ever- y be grafted in early spring before active 'ns. u g is employed to increase camellias, orna- s, hibiscus, gardenias, mangos, avocado-s, y, fruit trees and in some nurseries which 'n the production of cacti. Certain cacti e- fted. ican be readily grafted by making a sloping position upon a selected stock plant. The arpened to fit into this slot and is then with two or three long cactus spines ‘ t thpicks. Pins or nails will usually result ;that will produce an unsatisfactory graft. l. sealing the grafts are not required in the suberin forms quickly and protects the l’; afting can be done also by using pieces ide in the same manner as described for it cuttings, except, the pieces should be I a straight cut across the root on the end i parent plant and a slanting cut on the t from the parent plant. Cut a scion in 1s- anner. Then make a splice graft and f grafts in the same manner that root - planted. Propagation by Budding . g is a type of grafting that is performed that has only one growth bud. The b-ud lant is inserted »,un_der the bark of a closely t. If this is done properly, and the two compatible, the bud and the stock will lding is usually done in the summer and , itli most plants since through the fall and a growth bud remains dormant. In the _ active growth begins in all buds of the ‘ inserted bud also starts to grow, and the F above it can be cut off. Then all the growth from this bud will be identical to the plant from which the bud was taken. While the results of budding are the same as those accomplished by any other type of grafting, it is much easier to accomplish for several reasons. Buds can be placed in the bottom 3 or 4 inches of a seedling or a rooted cutting. If the bud does not take, the plant is not disfigured as i-t would be with an unsuccessful graft. An undesirable plant can be converted into a better variety, or another variety could be added to an established plant. The plant or the section of the plant into which the bud is placed is called the stock. In budding, a branch or a firm ro-und twig with several ‘buds and a diameter slightly smaller than a pencil is cut from the desired plant. The leaves are cut from a portion of branch with a very sharp knife leaving only a short piece of each petiole below each bud for easy handling. This branch from which the b-uds will be taken before they are inserted is called a budstick. The budsticks must be kept fresh and firm. After they are prepared they are usually carried in a small box of moist sphagnum moss to prevent their drying. When a bud is to be inserted into the upper branches of an older shrub or large tree choose a branch l o-r 2 years old, remove the foliage that might interfere with the budding operation and proceed as shown in the illustration. The illustrated T-bud method is the easiest and the most widely used. Patch budding is used, however, on plants that have a thick bark such as avocado, walnut or pecan. Double-bladed tools are available that remove about a 1-inch long rectangle of bark. A patch of bark must peel freely if a patch bud is to be made. In using this method, it is essential to work rapidly so that the tissues do not dry out. The newly inserted patch must be held securely in place by rubber strips or waxed cloth, and all cuts must be carefully covered. The present practice is to use rubber budding strips or soft, rubber budding patches to tie the buds. These materials exert an even pressure without cutting the plant, and they do not require as much attention as other binding materials. In most cases they do not have to be cut, since they deteriorate and fall from the plant in a short time.. The place of insertion of buds of such plants as roses, gardenias and ornamental citrus or other field budded plants is usually dependent upon the plant or upon past horticultural practice. Roses are usually budded slightly below the soil surface, gar- denias about 12 inches above the soil surface and ornamental citrus about 2 or 3 inches from the soil. Transplanting and Care of Growing Plants When plants have been multiplied from seed, cuttings, grafts or layers and they begin to show a considerable number of well developed roots an inch 27 or more in length, they must be transplanted in their new location or potted in individual containers. Potting or transplanting soil should have a loose, open structure, high in fertility, rich in organic matter and free of toxic materials. If good clean sterilized soil is not available, the mixture of peat and perlite recommended for germinating seeds has been found to be an excellent potting soil for newly propagated plants. Today plastic containers, peat pots and pots made of various other materials are rapidly replacing the traditional clay flower pot. Any type of container is satisfactory for growing young plants as long as it is the right size and is managed properly. Soil in plastic po-ts does not dry out as readily as it does in clay pots, and the soil should be more porous and watered less frequently. Peat po-ts are now used extensively for seedlings and rooted cuttings since they can be transplanted into permanent locatio-ns later, pot and all. Peat pots are difficult to handle individually after they have been potted. As a general rule, they should be planted in more permanent locations or larger containers sooner than if they are grown in other types of pots. When seedlings or rooted cuttings are trans- planted, be certain the soil is firmed well around the roots and that they are watered in well. Never allow the soil to dry before the roots are well estab- lished or placed in permanent locations. Newly planted plants should be fertilized with a starter solution of complete fertilizer with 2-10-3 ratio at the rate of 1 ounce to 5 gallons of water applied with each watering. As soon as a good root system is established, the plants can be fertilized at weekly intervals with a soluble fertilizer with a l-l-l ratio at the rate of l ounce to 2 gallons of water. Do not allow plants to become pot bound in small containers before they are shifted to larger ones or are planted outdoors in a permanent location. Mist Propagation In about 1940 an outstanding advancement in propagation of plants began with the development of techniques for rooting leafy cuttings under mist. The presence of leaves on cuttings is a strong stimulus to root initiation, but loss of water from the leaves may reduce the water content of the cutting to such a low level that it may cause them to die before root formation can take place. When a portion of a plant has been severed in making a cutting, the natural water supply to the leaves from the roots has been cut off, but the leaves are still capable of carrying on transpiration. In rapidly rooting species, quick root formation soon permits water uptake to compensate for that removed by the leaves. In more slowly rooting species, the 28 transpiration of the leaves must be reduced low rate to keep the cuttings alive until f form. To reduce the transpiration of they cuttings to a minimum, the vapor press water in the atmosphere surrounding the lea be maintained as nearly eqtjial as possible ti, pressure in the intercellular spaces within A standard practice for many years in ' gating structure was to sprinkle cuttings, floors frequently to maintain a high relativ Automatically controlled devices which fog-like mist are also available for use in ;‘ or other closed propagating structures. Th , of humidification give a beneficial effect v increasing the amount of water vapor in A The basis of mist propagation was i sprays of water on the foliage of cuttings a film of water on the leaves. This not i in high humidity around the cutting, but the leaf temperature and that of the sur I —all of the factors that tend to lower I transpiration. ' The cooling effects of such water v; effective that propagating beds can be doors in full sun without an appreciable leaf temperature. This permits a higher rag synthesis in those cuttings placed in the si those placed in shady locations. I To thoroughly understand the advan . propagation, some distinction must be n. humidifying systems and mist systems. U, that only increase the relative humidity vapor pressure in the area around the Q creased. In mist systems this also occurs, V is covered with a film of water which a additional benefit of reducing the tempe I leaf which in turn reduces the internal _ pressure and consequently the transpira Conditions for the growth and rootin are ideal under mist. Transpiration isle a low level; the light intensity can v moting a high rate of photosynthesis; Q perature of the entire cutting is relatively reducing the respiration rate. Cuttings can be synthesizing food in excess of A respiration. Such nutrients are very promoting the initiation and develop roots. A Mist nozzles should maintain a filmy the leaves at all times during the dad The application of additional water as -i seem to be an advantage, and in many be harmful. i The leaves of cuttings of certain s -i deteriorate to some extent under mist an i so under constant mist than under inte § a —->- u: / i \‘[/ “ Q i} ~H ~ OG-K STOCK T - wu-up on. ‘rovoque qzAFT 510$ on. srus Gun’ } bbooua GZAFT CLEFT QZAFT I é - suAweo . BQD '- . CIT m BARK '5*'ZK' 0,4 $562115‘; Taco o; $1.0m‘ R~$E° CQMPLETE-D . 596K Edna srosscr BUD .591’ BuD GEAFTIMQ 0R- BUDDINQ Meflwods of Graf-Fing Various scientific studies have shown that expos- ing leaves t0 natural or artificial rains or soaking them in water will remove nutrients, both organic or ino-rganic, from the leaves. Considerable variability exists, however, among plant species in regard to susceptibility to loss of minerals by leaching. Apparently there is a differ- ence also between loss of minerals by leaching from young vigorous growing cuttings and cuttings made from more mature growth. In cuttings of older tissues, there is an actual loss of nutrients by leaching; in the younger ones, it is more of a dilution effect due to tissue increase and active growth. Recent research has indicated that nutrients added to the mist in very low amounts will be helpful at least in some plants where nutrient loss is a problem. Softwood cuttings may be taken very early in the growing season, if they are to be rooted under mist. This is the stage most favo-rable fo-r rooting in many cases. When rooted in the conventional manner, these cuttings would be difficult to maintain without wilting. Mist Systems One of the chief problems in propagating plants by leafy cuttings is to maintain the cuttings without wilting until the roots are produced. Intermittent mist sprays over the rooting bed have been found to be very effective in rooting leafy cuttings of many kinds of plants, especially ornamental species. This technique enables the propagator to root cuttings of plants previously considered very difficult or impossible to root. Two basic types of mist nozzles are available and widely used along with many modifications of each kind. They are the oil burner or swirling action type and the deflection type. The characteristics of the oil burner nozzle are" that it produces an evenly distributed relatively fine spray and uses relatively small amounts of water. Mist is produced in the nozzle by water passing through small grooves set at an angle to each other. The characteristics of the deflection type nozzle are that 'it develops mist by a fine stream of water striking a flat surface; has ailarger aperture that pre- vents clogging but uses more water; covers a larger area than oil burning type, so fewer are required; and operates more effectively at low water pressures than oil burner types. Intermittent mist that supplies enough water at intervals during the daylight hours to keep a film of water on the leaves gives better results than constant mist. Since it is impractical to turn such systems off and on by hand, electrical controls are used. Several type-s of controls are available, and all operate to control a solenoid valve in the water line to the nozzle-s. “Normally open” solenoid valves 30 should always be used in intermittent n. so that if power fails, the valve will re and the cuttings will not accidentally dry more commonly used controls are as folli The electrically operated timer system type of control. It uses two timers 0;": turns the entire system or} in the morni at night, and the second orie operates the 'i ing the day to produce an intermittent y desired combination of time intervals, : seconds ON and 90 seconds OFF. , Another control used is the electronic’ control system consists of a small piece of taining two terminals placed under the with the cuttings. . Wires from the terminals extend r box. When a film of water covers the mitting electrical contact between the t the solenoid valve is activated, and the =‘ off. When the film of water evaporat plastic, the systems turn on etc. I Finally, there are controls based on li These operate on the relationship betw tensity and the evaporation rate. Th photoelectric cell which conducts curreni tion to light intensity. It activates a ma »f so that after a certain period of time % valve is opened and the mist is applied. _ The higher the light intensity, t quently the mist is applied. » Note: There is always a hazard of "-f when one works with an elec unit in a mist bed where co-nsi is present. The complete insta J be made by a competent electri There are many advantages in the by the home gardener. A cutting con a water by transpiration after it is rem parent plant. It is impossible for the ‘A up sufficient water to replace that lost I‘, piration until new roots are formed. -‘_ prevents excessive loss of water by cui taining this higher water content in the the plant to root and reduces the tim rooting to take place. 1 The mist system also eliminates mi disease problems in the cutting beds. It . all the problems of propagation by cut Originally, this system was called since it was believed necessary to keep =I the mist during the entire rooting pe f The average home gardener, who gate only a few cuttings, should turn the: 8 a.m. and leave it on until 5 pm. i Since each mist nozzle is design area of about 4 square feet, one no, sufficient for the needs of the average “E; under constant mist should be no deeper " es. ntrolling Propagation Environment With a Plastic Structure stic structure provides a new technique l; leafy cuttings and grafts under adverse ntal conditions. It shows considerable r wider use by plant propagators. This _” overcomes some of the disadvantages en- by the use of intermittent mist. i ch on mist techniques in plant propagation 'A8cM University presented difficulties be- 1 igh soluble salt content in the available ly-largely because of sodium accumulation aves. This condition resulted in severe urning of the leaves on mo-st cuttings placed ivironment for more than l5 days. er well-known propagating technique for d grafts is the use of a closed case covered i plastic films or other translucent materials. -case system of propagation, the transpira- _ is reduced by humidification rather than a ally, the effect of humidification and mist nspiration rate is distinct since the relative around the leaf decreases or increases the fr pressure around the leaves. 's method, the leaves are not usually covered u of water that reduces the leaf temperature decreases water vapor pressure within the .- cause of this condition, closed cases used iytion are usually shaded to reduce tem- a This reduction in light intensity, however, ‘es the rooting environment less desirable. eal environment for rooting and growing _s of cuttings and grafts can be maintained use of mist methods, if a satisfactory water available. Under these conditions, trans- reduced to the lowest level, and high light n be maintained promoting a higher rate- , thesis and a lower rate of respiration. ‘a the conventional closed-case propagation and the case shaded and ventilated by and time-consuming methods, cuttings and cred because of reduced photosynthesis and respiration brought about by the shading ‘temperature. disadvantages encountered with a higher al soluble salt content in water used in _