■'rmmmmmm ■WWIWWiWWWIIHWIIWWBMIWWWIWI W I B IM ®l|e ^. ^. ^tU pbrarg ^ortI| Carolina j U6 Cop iA V :\MX THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE 1 INDICATED BELOW AND IS JECT TO AN OVERDUE FIN. POSTED AT THE CIRCULA DESK. 100M/10-80 Ornameiital Gardening FOR AMERICANS A TREATISE ON BEAUTIFYING HOMES, EURAL DISTRICTS, TOWNS, AND CEMETERIES. BY ELIAS A. LONG, LANDSCAPE AKCHITECT ; AUTHOR OF " THE HOME FLOEIST. ILLUSTRATED. NEW YORK: ORANGE JUDD COMPANY, 52 & 54 LAFAYETTE PLACE. NORTH CAROLINA STATE UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES 190:; S00943454 T Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1P84, by the ORANGE JUDD COMPANY, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. PREFACE. This book was written with a view of furnishing a low- priced, comprehensive American work on Landscape, or more properly, Ornamental Gardening, A great degree of conciseness was aimed at, with the desire to bring a large amount of information on all departments of the subject into a small compass. And now the completed work goes forth in the hope that it will more fully meet the want for information of this kind than any work ever issued in this country, at even several times its price. I acknowledge with great pleasure the help found — especially in preparing the lists and descrijDtions of trees, shrubs and plants, in the works of J. C. Loudon, AY. Eobinson, Josiah Hoopes, Frank J. Scott, and a few others, whose names appear in their proper places in the body of the book. Mention must also be made of the kindness of Messrs. Ellwanger & Barry, of Eochester, N". Y., in at all times throwing open their nursery and specimen grounds, to my inspection, as an aid in pre- paring the descriptions in this department. To Dr. George Thurber, editor of the American Agri- culturist, I am specially indebted for valuable aid and ^"" S^\5i 24339 lY PKEFACE. suggestions received, and for his interest in the work from the first. I am also indebted to the kindness of the Publishers of the last named periodical for the use of engravings, that appear in the descriptions of trees and plants. If my book shall be of service in increasing a love for Ornamental Gardening and kindred delights throughout America ; leading tliose who consult its pages in the way of genuine pleasure, healthfulness, and profit in tliese, my highest ambition shall have been satisfied. Elias a. Long. Buffalo, N. Y., November, 1884. CONTENTS PART I.— Introductory. CHAPTER I. Intruduction 9 Glances at the Past, Present and Future. — The Require- ments of American Ornamental Gardening.— Ornamental Gardening Literature. — American Progress in Special Branches.— American Architecture and Gardening. — Orna- mental Gardening for Americans. CHAPTER II. Profits of Ornamental Gardening 16 CHAPTER III. Time required to produce Good Effects 20 PART II.— Materials op Ornamental Gardening. CHAPTER IV. The Ground and the Grass 33 CHAPTER V. Woody growths 25 CHAPTER VI. Deciduous Trees and Shrubs 27 CHAPTER VII. Evergreen Trees and Shrubs 99 CHAPTER Vm. Climbers and Trailers 118 CHAPTER IX. Hardy Herbaceous Plants 1^ CHAPTER X. Annual Plants 156 (V) VI CONTENTS. CHAPTER XL Tender Plants 158 CHAPTER Xir. Miscellaneous Natural Materials 160 PART III. — Arrangement op Ornamental Gardens. CHAPTER Xni. Principles and Aims 161 Nature as a Teacher. — Major and Minor Features of Enibel- lishment. — Variety. — Order and Simplicity. — Unity and Harmony. — Character. — Expression. — Convenience. — Breadth and Extent.— Richne.ss and Finish. CHAPTER XIV. The Home Buildings 166 CHAPTER XV. The Surface of the Garden 167 CHAPTER XVI. Walks and Drives 177 CHAPTER XVII. Use and Combination of Grass, Trees, Shrubs, etc 183 CHAPTER XVIII. Climbers and their uses 199 CHAPTER XIX. Flowering and Ornamental Plants 206 CHAPTER XX. Roekwork 321 CHAPTER XXI Water Features in the Garden 327 CHAPTER XXII. Hedges and Clipped Trees 231 CHAPTER XXIIL Garden Structures . . . . 336 CHAPTER XXIV. Plans of Private Residence Grounds 247 CONTENTS. VII CHAPTER XXV. Portico, Window and Roof Gardening 265 CHAPTER XXVI. School, Church, Asylum, Hotel, and Railroad Gardening 273 CHAPTER XXVII. Public Parks and Pleasure Grounds 279 Future and Present Wants to be Considered. — An Ideal Sys- tem of Public Lawn Gardening. — "Beautiful Paris" as a Model. — Paris, Past, Present, and Future. — The Lesson for American Enterprise. — The Large Park System. — Garden Boulevards. — A glance at Central Park, N. Y.— Small Town Parks. — Town Squares.— Planting Public Highways.— Rural Improvement Associations. CHAPTER XXVIIL Garden Cemeteries 301 PART IV. — CoNSTRucTiNa Gardens. CHAPTER XXIX. Planning Garden Improvements 308 CHAPTER XXX. Laying out the Grounds 310 CHAPTER XXXI. The Work on the Grounds 312 CHAPTER XXXII. Planting 320 CHAPTER XXXIII, Lawn Making 324 CHAPTER XXXIV. Walks and Drives 327 CHAPTER XXXV. Preparation for Special Purposes . 331 CHAPTER XXXVI. Garden Architecture 335 Yin CONTENTS. PART V. — Maintaining Gardens. CHAPTER XXXVII. January 337 CHAPTER XXXVIII. February * 339 CHAPTER XXXIX. March 346 CHAPTER XL. April. .' 349 CHAPTER XLl. May 353 CHAPTER XLII. June 357 CHAPTER XLIII. July, August 361 CHAPTER XLIV. September 364 CHAPTER XLV. October 365 CHAPTER XLVI. November, December 368 Ornamental Gardening for Americans. PART L . INTRO D U CTORY, CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION. GLANCES AT THE PAST, PRESENT, AND FUTURE. The art of Oruameutal Gardening is, inidonbtedly, backward in America at the present time. Progress is more apparent in some other arts ; for example, those of architecture and interior decoration. There is nothing- strange in this, however; our nation is comparatively young, and whatever is closely related to the useful arts, has had opportunities to develop, which ornamental gardening, painting, and other arts have not enjoyed. House building has received great attention from the first, and it is natural that, as prosperity increases, a love for the beautiful should manifest itself in this sooner than in the more independent fine arts. Neither is it strange that gardening, and other arts of this class, in America should contrast unfavorably with the same in some European countries, for long before the birth of our nation these arts have had abroad a comparatively ^'ree field in which to advance. (9) iK?'^^*^ C Slate Cdl 10 OKNAMENTAL GAEDEKIKG. If our backwardness in the fine arts is thus accounted for, the grounds upon which to base predictions of future jjrogress, are no less clearly defined ; while in tlie pioneer century there was naturally a lack of means, to-day, wealth, rapidly developing taste, and in fact, everything needed for fostering the fine arts, abound with us. Noth- ing shows our real progress more strikingly than our decennial census returns. Ninety years ago there were less than four millions of people in the entire United States. Sixty years ago there were not yet ten millions ; at thirty years ago we had reached nearly twenty-three, and 1880 showed a jjopulation of about fifty millions. Wonderful as are these figures, our general prosperity has more than kept pace with them. To-day the large percentage of people owning homes ; the thousands of savings banks to care for the surplus money of the masses ; the multitude of possessors of moderate and of great wealth, all tell of a degree of prosperity unparalleled iu any other country. This state of things is destined to have a marked effect upon the future of the fine arts in America. Great Britain, France, and other European nations, may surpass us in conservatories, gardens and parks to- day, but the time will come when we must excel in all of these, as we do in most of the useful arts and inventions. THE REQUIREMENTS OF AMERICAN ORNAMENTAL GAR- DENING. What is needed more than all else, is popular education with respect to the beauty, adaptability, and arrange- ments of the subjects of the vegetable kingdom for creating delightful garden and providing fine landscape effects. This is a matter in which the average American is far behind the Englishman, or the people of some other European countries. We are far from being a nation of garden lovers, or of people who take great INTEODUCTIOX. 11 delight in beautiful, well arranged, home-gardens, and in caring for them. It should be better known, that there are fully one thousand different species and varieties of ornamental trees and shrubs, besides great numbers of hardy flower- ing plants, all possessing distinct features of beaut}', that will thrive in the greater part of the United States. One who walks among our home gardens and grounds, and sees the same plants in each, might suppose that only a few scores of these were known. The same kinds, such as have always been planted, are repeated everywhere. The same fault is also conspicuous in many cemeteries and pul)lic parks. It is not too much to say that a degree of poverty generally prevails in our ornamentation of home grounds, that would not be tolerated in the interior fur- nishings, or in the appearance of the house itself. There are as good reasons for adhering to the fashions in houses of fifty years ago as to the selection and arrangement of trees that prevailed at that tune. The reason why a knowl- edge of materials, their kinds, arrangement and needed care are essential to success in ornamental gardening, is be- cause fine results depend largely upon continued attention to keeping up the garden. When the architect has planned and finished tlie house, the interest in architecture, so far as that house is concerned, is at an end. But when a garden is planned and planted it remains a perj)etual charge. If it is slighted or neglected, tlie original work of construction is well nigh lost. It is an intimate ac- quaintance with trees and plants, first in doing or in di- recting garden work, and later the watching their growth and development, that give to the occupation its great- est charm. THE LITER.VTURE OF ORXAMEXTAL GARDENING. A comparison of our girden literature with tliat of England, for example, indicates a general lack of interest 13 OENAMENTAL GARDENIKG. in the subject. We support but one periodical — a monthly, devoted to general ornamental and useful gar- dening. In London alone, there are published no less than five periodicals devoted to the subject, and these are weeklies, of large size. I make no mention of agricul- tural and other papers with good gardening departments, nor of the monthlies and "guides" that are issued by seedsmen and florists, for advertising purposes, as these are found on both sides of the Atlantic. The interest in the subject in England is also indicated by the numerous books treating on gardening. Such facts show that the English possess a much greater love for, and knowledge of, everything pertaining to gardening than do Americans. They also explain why many of our own native trees, shrubs, and flowers are better known and appreciated abroad than at home. These native trees, etc., are often introduced into cultiva- tion abroad and are sometimes brought back into our own gardens through the enterprise of foreign nursery- men and gardeners. AMERICAN PROGRESS IN" SPECIAL BRANCHES. To conclude that Americans are unable to appreciate beauty in the products of the gai'dener's art, would be a mistake. If we suffer by comparison with Europe, as re- gards general ornamental gardening, we may turn to the progress we have made in some special brandies of the art, and from this take hope for the future. In the produc- tion and consumption of cut flowers, we see something like American spirit and enterprise. Millions of dollars are invested in the growing of flowers and j^lants, to meet a popular taste that hardly seemed to exist some fifteen years ago. From a small beginning this trade has developed year by year, until now we actually have reached a standing as i)roducers and consumers of flowers, that is looked upon as another "American Wonder." INTRO D'JCTIOiM. 13 And wli\ not, for there is iiotliing in all Europe to equal the American cut-flower trade. In London, for exam- ple, this trade is but a fraction, as compared with that of New York, though it has a population nearly three times as great. This state of aifairs, thougli it may show developement in only a single direction, should ])e regarded with satisfaction, as its tendency must he to create a taste for general gardening. Certainly those who purchase flowers for the love of them are the better prepared to appreciate choice trees and shrubs and fine garden effects. The improved large cemeteries of America, show on the part of our people an appreciation of tlie finer results of the gardening art. Years ago Boston, Piiiladelphia, and some other cities, conceived the idea of roomy garden or park-like cemeteries, and large areas were laid out as ornamental gardens of sepulture near these cities. Now nearly every large city has an improved cemetery, and altogether there are in America a number of such burial places that are the most beautiful the world affords. There can be no doubt as to the value of these in culti- vating a love for general ornamental gardening. Good progress has been made in America of late years, in the matter of public parks and gardens. These afford the room for planting fine collections of trees, shrubs, etc., and some now contain extensive plantations of these, affording opportunities to the people for be- coming accpiainted with kinds, and effective arrange- ments. In the Buffalo Parks and Boulevards, more than forty thousand trees, shrubs and vines, in over four hundred varieties, were planted within the past ten years, and are rapidly developing their beauty. It is noticeable that as this rather extensive arboretum develops, the appreciation of arboreal beauty increases among the people, inciting new interest in adorning homes with trees and shrubs. For several years associations for the 14 ORNAMENTAL ftARDENING. iiiiprovcinent of towns and villages have been in success- ful operation. These, hy planting trees and promoting a love for gardening, iiave already produced excellent results. Such societies are full of promise, and their existence shows a proper public spirit. It is gratifying to note that instances in which persons of means provide free pleasure gardens for the peoi)le are becoming more numerous. The work of rural improve- ment in the State of Connecticut is receiving inestimable aid, from men like Mr. Henry C. Bowen — who at his own expense, has laid out a public park of sixty acres and given it to the people of Woodstock, and the Field Brothers who have shown similar liberality at Haddam, Conn., and some others have followed their examples. In the West, Shaw of St. Louis, Wade of Cleveland, and others, have by their noble liberality made entire com- munities happier, healthier, and better, and the works stand as monuments more enduring than stone, keeping fresh for all time the memory of the worthy donors. Scarcely second in any sense to such benefactors, are those who throw open their magnificent private gardens to the public, to be freely enjoyed under reasonable restrictions. In time let us hope to see many followers of these worthy examples among the thousands who are favored with great wealth. AMERICAN ARCHITECTURE AND GARDENING. A taste for the beautiful developed in one field of art, is also a help to others. Land owners now-a-days, as they look from the modern artistically designed house to the garden, are with growing frequency, asking the questions, ''is not the garden as susceptible of improvement as the house ? Cannot as great changes for the better be Avorked here, over the styles of a generation ago, as are being effected in f>ur architecture ? " Extended observa- tion shows that tliousands of property owners throughout INTRODUCTION. 15 our land are putting such questions. While it is often true that no direct means may be at hand for suggest- ing and carrying out fitting improvements, still the mere fact that conditions exist which suggest the ques- tions, is sure to hasten the day when gardens, and gar- den adornments, in keeping with our improved architec- ture, will prevail throughout the country. That various influences are at work in awakening the American public to its needs and opportunities in the line of improved ornamental grounds, there is little doubt. But there is great room for progress ; the field is a wide one. The best efforts of all who take an interest in this subject, amateurs and professional gar- deners ; florists and nurserymen ; editors and writers ; are needed for developing correct taste and methods, so that, as the demand for improved pleasure grounds in- creases, there may be at command the best possible sys- tem of these for our climate, and for the tastes and means of our people — one that shall be essentially American. "ORNAMENTAL GARDENING FOR AMERICANS." In order to contribute a share towards meeting the public want in this line, the present work has been pre- pared. With excellent opportunities for knowing tlie needs of the people, the author aims to jn-esent, in sim- ple style, plain instructions as to the materials, arrange- ment, construction, and keeping of private and public gardens. To make a book which should be suitable as a constant garden companion, convenient, reliable, com- prehensive, and practical, has been a constant aim. It is believed that the subjects are presented in so clear a manner that any intelligent person can, by its help, not only successfully undertake the oversight of an ordinary garden, whether doing the work with his or her own hands or directing others, but may, by study, become so familiar with this subject in all its departments, as to be 16 ORXAMENTAL GARDENHSTG. proof against impositions 1)y the ignorant who pretend to be gardeners, and also the representations of dishonest tree agents. Throughout the book the common names of plants are adhered too as much as i)ossible, for the reason that the botanical names often prove a barrier to an acquaintance with them, wdiile common ones invite it. But as the real need of botanical names is recognized — which being in the Latin language are the same in all nations, and serve to guard against the confusion that without them would be inevitable, they are given in parenthesis. In case no common name is in use, then the botanical name often is printed as though it was the common one. The same subject is qften touched upon in different parts of the book, thus, the materials of a Eockery are referred to in the Second Part, the arrangement of the Rockery in Part Three, Construction in Part Four, with Notes on Management in Part Five. A copious index at the end will always lead to the desired topic. CHAPTER II. PROFITS OF ORNAMENTAL GARDENING^ " 1 wouldn't cut down that tree for a hundred dollars," is an expression one may often hear from proj)erty owners, as they point to some favorite. The valuation of the tree is often placed two, three, or five times as high. What did such a tree cost ? Perhaps one or two dollars fifteen years or so ago for the tree, preparing the soil and planting, and next to nothing in the years since. From the time the roots took hold of the soil, and a beautiful show of foliage and branches appeared, increasing year by year in size, soon giving a pleasant shade and perhaps PROFITS OF ORIfAMENTAL GARDEKIKG. 17 flovvers, it has been a constant source of delight. Was the setting of that tree i^rofitable, considering the value at which it is now appraised, and the pleasure it has af- forded ? Profits like these are in the common order of things in intelligent planting. In my experience, I have assisted in so improving a place of two acres in extent, by varying the grade, filling in marshy parts, arranging walks, drives, trees, and shrubs, that for an outlay of less than six hundred dol- lars, the improvement before the first season was past was so marked, as to increase the owner's asking j^rice by twenty-five hundred dollars. Instances could be multiplied to show that, for from two to five per cent of the value of a place, spent on garden improvements, returns of from ten to sixty per cent in increased value have been realized in a short time. Trees, shrubs, climbers, and plants in choice kinds, well arranged, develop rapidly and greatly increase the valuation of a place, through augmenting the beauty of the architecture and the general effect. The presence of these always makes a less expensive house look finer than a costlier one, which presents nothing in the heat of summer, or in the storms of winter, for the eye to rest upon, but bare walls and harsh outlines, unbroken by any trees or other vegetation. Many a man with the means and disposition will pay several thousand dollars to architect, builder, and fur- nisher, for a house, with the view that the beauty and comfort purchased will yield satisfaction proportionate to the cost. To such a person it may be said, that one thou- sand dollars prudently invested in arranging and plant- ing the home grounds, may be made to i^ay a much larger percentage of pure pleasure and interest, than the same amount put into the building. If one who is about in- vestino; five thousand dollars, or a smaller or larsfer amount, in improving a home, should keep back five per 18 ORlirAMENTAL GARDENING. cent of the sum and invest it in improving the surround- ings, it may be made to yield far better returns in the years to come, than if nearly all had been spent on tlie house, and a mere pittance allowed for the grounds. Will it pay to plant trees on the average farm? A view, such as may be sometimes had, of two farms, of the same size and general situation, but presenting strong con- trasts in the presence and absence of trees and shrubs respectively, may throw light on the question. One of the farms may have half a dozen large shade trees about the yard, some climbers over the piazzas and buildings ; dense clumps of evergreens, both for beauty and to serve as wind-breaks. It may also have a number of broad shade trees in the barn-yard, along the lanes, the boun- daries, creeks, and in other places where nothing else can be profitalily grown, yielding grateful shade and shelter. The other has not a sign of sylvan beauty, with every part without shelter by trees from the summer's sun or the winter's gales. The trees on the first farm may have cost one hundred dollars for stock, setting, etc., while any disinterested person would estimate the value they add to the place, at ten-fold greater than their cost. No better method can be devised for rendering farming a pleasant occupation to the young, than the judi(uous use of trees and garden beauty about the grounds. Our attachments to trees becomes almost as strong as to per- sons, and if there are fine ones growing about the home, and with them some good shrubs, cHmbers, flowers, etc., they will add new strength to the chain which binds the heart of youth to the hearthstone, and to the rural pursuits among which they have been reared. The view of this subject, which relates to gains far above those that can be computed in dollars, is an im- portant one. It has been said that " the hope of America is the homes of America," whatever adorns one's home — be that in the tow^u or country — and ennobles his domes- PKOFITS OF ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 19 tic life, streugtiiens his love for country, and nurtures the better elements of the nature, in those who are thrown in contact with such improvements. To pro- mote a love for trees, shrubs, vines, aud flowers, by cul- tivating and studying tliem, develops in children a love for the beautiful in nature, in art, and still more in char- acter. Nothing is truer than that the love of nature sharpens the senses, aud quickens all the intellectual faculties. Were parents to provide to the fullest practi- cable degree, the simple means for encouraging the love of ornamental gardening, and of the study of Botany, and other closely allied sciences at home, they early secure for the young a source of high enjoyment, that is un- known elsewhere, one which elevates the mind and fills it with noble aspirations. Besides these things, tlie mere spending of time on the part of all, and especially of children and Avomen, in the exercise and enjoyment that comes from associating with, and caring for plants, is highly conducive to health. It is largely because of their rambles and exercise in the open air by the women of England, that they generally present the bloom and vig- or of youth until far advanced in life. It would be both easy and inexpensive to provide the majority of American homes with these opportunities for health-giving exercise. It pays to do well whatever is done in ornamental and landscape gardening. In starting such work, it is too often undertaken without anything like a definite plan. It would be quite as reasonable to work without a well-considered plan in building our houses, yet we find that large sums of money in the aggregate are paid to architects for house-plans and superintendence of work, while for the surroundings, little thought is given to call- ing in the services of the trained gardener. When the day comes that the landscape gardener will be consulted along with the house architect, in matters of home im- provement, then a less sum of money Avill go farther to- 20 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. wards purchasing real beauty, pleasure, and comfort, than when the latter alone is employed. Alarcje part of the work of the landscape architect now consists in planning for the remodelling of places laid out years ago in bad taste and ignorance. In every instance of this kind, there is in some degree entailed the tliree- fokl expense of first doing the work, then undoing it, and lastly doing it over again; had it been well conceived and executed at tiie first, the work would have answered for many years. In speaking of the profitable advantages of jilanting shade trees in cities, Mr. Thomas Median lately wrote as follows: "Passing through a street in Philadelphia, on which blocks of first-class houses had been erected on both sides, but evidently by two different owners, there ap- peared to be a Avonderful difference in success by street trees alone. There was a pretty row of Carolina poplars on one side; on the other side no trees at all. This side had innumerable notices of houses 'to rent,' but on the tree-shaded side every house was occupied. Both blocks appeared to be houses of about equal age and value, and there was no apparent difference between the two. There seemed every reason to believe that the presence of trees alone had given the one side the great advantao;e." CHAPTER III. TIME REQUIRED FOR PRODUCING GOOD EFFECTS. There are many who love trees and shrubs, but are kept from planting them by false notions respecting the time it will take to secure a good effect and shade. It is possible to so treat trees, that in ten years they will not grow the same number of inches ; but on the other hand TIME REQUIRED FOR PRODUCIKG GOOD EFFECTS. 21 they may, by fair management, reach a hight of from twice to three times as many feet in ten years from phmting. The difference lies in matters that ordinarily are in a large degree within our control. When trees remain almost at a standstill for a long time, it indicates either that they were of poor quality when planted ; or, in rare cases, that the soil cannot be fitted to meet their wants, but very commonly that they are deprived of the food and moisture they would appropriate if they had a chance. Trees and plants are much like animals in this; that they may either be starved to death, or they may be liberally supplied with food and have proper care, to pro- duce the most satisfactory results as to development and beauty. As a general thing, deep trenching or subsoil- ing, with liberal man;;ring, and then thorough culture if the trees and shrubs are growing in borders, or free watering if standing in the sod in seasons of drouth, are the things needful for producing the best returns. Be- cause these points are not better heeded, three-fourths of all the trees and shrubs in private grounds are set out poorly, grow slowly, and hardly make a decent showing in a life-time. To show what growth may be expected in trees and shrubs under fair treatment, I give some measurements made in Buffalo Park of trees and shrubs, which were planted seven and eight years l)efore : American Ehii, Silver Maple, Norway Maple, Suf^ar Maple, Wiiite Poplar, Balsam Poplar, Loml)ardy Poplar, Norway Spruce, Black and White Fines, 13 to 15 Strong-growing Shrubs, Dwarf-growing Snrubs, Let it be borne in mind, that these dimensions are for growths under what may be considered as ordinarily fair 19 ft. high, 15 ft. hroad. 22 " 14 " " 17 " 14 " " 16 '• 10 " " 30 " 25 " " 35 " 15 " " 40 " 16 " 8 ft. broad. 15 " 10 to 12 " " 12 " 5 " 10 " " 4 " 3 " 5 " " 32 ORKAMENTAL GARDENING. treatment, as regards manuring, culture, and the impor- tant point of summer watering. In small collections, instead of those containing many thousands, as in the case here referred to, better results might be expected. As an illustration, I also give measurements made on the banks of a lake, where the roots could take up an abund- ance of moisture, and where the soil naturally abounded in vegetable matter. It should be noticed, however, that the measurements which follow, mostly apply to a class of smaller growing trees than those named in the list above: European Alder, 30 ft. high, 20 ft. broad. Willow, 30 to 35 " " 25 to 30" Cut -Leaved Birch, 28 " " 15 " Bird Cherry, 23 " " 20 " Strong-growing Shrubs, 8 to 15 " " 8 to 12 " Dwarf -growing Shrubs, 3 " 6 " " 5 " 10 " Downing tells of a Silver maple, twelve years planted, that had a trunk one foot in diameter, and which made shoots six feet long in one season. Hoopes describes a Bnrr oak, twelve years from the acorn, that was seventeen feet high. We may occasionally meet trees and shrubs growing wild, that have made growths equal to any in- dicated by the figures here given. It is well to know that, as a rule, shrubby growths de- velop signs of mature beauty sooner than do trees. Planted in good soil, these take hold quickly, and in a few years show beauty in liabit, foliage, and flowers, that is scarcely excelled in after years, though they may in- crease in size. On this and other accounts I usually rec- ommend a free use of the flowering and other shrubs in planting both large and small places. Planting is often delayed from year to year, until suffi- cient time has passed to have allowed the trees to make large growths, had they been set when first the idea was entertained. Almost any shrub or tree, Avith good treat- ment, may be counted on to reach a very pleasing size in from two to six years from i)lanting. How soon such a period slips away ! PART IL MATERIALS OF ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. There are now estimated to be in the vegetable kingdom about one hundred and twenty thousand different species of plants. Out of this vast number the arboriculturist and florist have selected a great many, which are classed as ornamental. In the following pages such description is given of the natural materials which may enter into the work of ornamental gardening, as may serve to convey an idea of their uses. CHAPTER IV. THE GROUND AND THE GRASS. The soil of the earth's surface has this paramount im- portance, that it is the home of the roots of all ordinary forms of vegetation. While tliere are many kinds of soil, such as sandy, clayey, loamy, and peaty, varying much in character, yet such is the adaptability of plants to soils, and so susceptible are these to improvement by the arts of culture, that some kinds of plants can always be found that will thrive readily in any properly improved soils. On the preparation of soils, see Part IV. Almost as common as the ground itself, are the grasses which clothe it, and which constitute a distinct and extensive botanical order. That they are very important in ornamental gardening, every one knows ; we could imagine nothing more desolate in appearance than the (23) 24 ORNAMENTAL GARDEKING. barren aspect of our earth, were the carpet of the grasses lacking. The list of kinds used in lawn-making is not very large, these named below being the kinds found most desirable for this purpose, in our climate. Ehode Island Bent Grass {Agrostis- vulgaris, var.), a grass of fine quality in some sections, when sown by itself. Creeping Bent Grass {AgrosUs alba, var. stolonifera), thrives in partially shaded places ; excellent for small yards. Ked Top Grass {AgrosUs vulgaris), a valuable kind, doing well as a lawn grass in almost all soils. Green, or June Grass ( Poapratensis), also widely known as ''Kentucky Blue Grass," is one of the best species, thriving well in dry, and also in somewhat shaded places. Perennial Eye-Grass {Lolitmi perenne), one of the best grasses south of Philadelphia, starting early in the spring, and of a good color. Yellow Oat Grass {Avena jlavesceris) stands drouth well, but should be mixed with other kinds. Dog Tail Grass {Cynosurus cristatus), suited to dry bard soils and hills. Ked Fescue Grass {Festuca ovina, var. rubra), adapted for gravelly banks ; coarse. Keed Canary Grass (Phalaris arundinacea), a coarse grass, suitable for marshy and wet places. Tall Fescue Grass {Festuca elatior), suitable for moist, strong clay soils; in shady places and along the sea coast; coarse. Sweet Vernal Grass {Authoxanthum odoratum). The newly mown grass of this species emits a pleasing fragrance, on which account it is considered desirable to add a small quantity of its seed to other kinds. White Clover {Trifolium repeas) is sometimes mixed with the grasses, but is not recommended for rich soils or for lawns that are kept watered. HC.Stirte*^^*'^ WOODY GROWTHS — TREES AKD SHRtJBS. 25 CHAPTER V. WOODY GROWTHS.— TREES AND SHRUBS. In trees and shrubs we have some of the finest forms of natural beauty. These i)resent a great variety of orna- mental (jualities, in habit, foliage, and flowers, and possess wide adaptability for beautifying purposes. In nature, 4, 60 feet and upwards ; B, 30 to 60 feet ; C, 15 to 30 feet ; D. tree 9 to 15 feet ; B, shrubs 9 to 15 feet ; F, tree 5 to 9 feet ; G, shrub 5 to 9 feet ; ff, 1 to 5 feet. Fig. 1. — THE COMPAKATIVE SIZES OF TREES AND SHltUBS. mountains, plains and valleys all support kinds peculiar to these localities and that are perfectly at home in them. Planters who know only the comparatively few kinds of trees and shruljs that are commonly seen in Americau yards and pleasure grounds, can hardly be aware what they miss, in not employing larger assortments of trees. 2 ^6 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. The lack which genernlly prevails in this respect is inex- cusable in the face of Nature's liberality in providing. Those who are interested in the study of trees and shrubs, with a view to making up lists for planting, find that the size to whieli these attain at maturity, is an im- portant consideration. Hence in the enumeration of the trees in these pages, care is taken to give the sizes to which the kinds attain. A classification as to size is introduced, the different and relative sizes being repre- sented by letters, as shown by figure 1, and the appended explanation. In the descriptions throughout the work, the letters given answer as keys which, by tlie help of the engraving, lead to a correct idea of individual and rela- tive sizes. Let it be understood that in all cases the size'j indi- cated are only approximately correct, as difference of soil and other circumstances have much to do in causing de- viations in the hight of the same species. The general plan of arrangement in the following chapter is, to begin with descriptions of large-growing kinds, and end with the smaller species. No alphabeti- cal classification is here attempted, but for convenienco the different kinds are thus arranged in the indeXc To save repetitions of botanical terms (which are usually in parenthesis), the generic name which appears in the head line, is represented by its initials through- out the descriptions of the species of each genus. When there is more than one variety of any species, the abbre- viation var. (thus, var. regalis), precedes the variety name of all that follow the one first given. DECIDUOUS TBEES AXD SHRUBS. 27 CHAPTER VI. DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. The term deciduous is ap})lied to those trees and shrubs, the leaves of which fall in autumn, and is used in contra^ distinction to evergreen, or persistent. THE ELM. UlmUS. A. C. The Elms in their different species afford much diver- sity, and as they grow readily in almost any soil and situa- tion, they almost without exception give great satisfac- tion to planters. The Americax White or Weepixg Elm [Ulmus Americana). — A well-known tree with spreading, curv- ing, pendant branches, and of stately, picturesque appear- ance. Where space admits, it is one of the best street trees, because of its inclination to form a long trunk, A. The English Elm ( U. cajnpestn's), with its numerous varieties, forms a valuable section. The normal form is tall and irregular in shape, its branches leaving the trunk almost horizontally. Leaves smaller and more regularly cut than those of the American, A. Berard's English Elm (var. Berardi) is a miniature tree, slender and pyra- midal in habit, with distinctly cut leaves, B. C'lem- mer's English Elm (var. Clemmeri) differs but little from the type ; of rapid growth, A. Webb's Curled-leaved English Elm (var. crispa) is dw^arfish, with curled leaves; distinct, B. Some of the varieties of the English Elm incline to a pendulous habit, such as the Weeping Small-leaved Eng- lish Elm (var. microplnjlla pendula), a charming tree for small lawns, if grafted at six or eight feet high, C. The common Cork-barked English Elm (var. snherosa) is a desirable tree. Weei)ing Cork-barked English Elm 28 orkamental OARDEKIKG. (var. suberosa pendala), a picturesque grower, B. The Twiggy English Elm (var. viminalis), with small leaves and slender branches, is distinct and beautiful, C. Some of this section have characteristic foliage, which renders them valuable, such as the Variegated-leaved English Elm (var. imriegata argeutea), with the leaves dis- tinctly mottled with silvery white, B. Golden-leaved English Elm (var. aurea) has its leaves blotched with yel- low. Puri)le-leaved English Elm {y ax. purpurea), a hand- some tree, with the leaves purple-tinged early in the sea- son ; compact and upright in habit, A. Nettle-leaved English Elm (var. utricmfolia) has large serrated leaves, of peculiar appearance ; fine habit, A. Curled-leaved English Elm (var. cucullata), with curled, hood-like leaves, sharply notched, B. Plume-like English Elm (var. phimosa), another curled-leaved variety, the branches and foliage of which have a plume-like appearance. There are also belonging to the English Elms, a beauti- ful compact-growing variety, with dark foliage, called the Serrate-leaved English Elm (var. serratifoUa), B ; the Belgian Elm (var. Belgica), of rapid, spreading growth, much planted in European streets, xi; Cornish Elm (var. Cornuhiensis), of vigorous upright growth, A ; and the Monumental Elm (var. monumentaUs), of distinct colum- nar form, dense and slow-growing, C, besides some others that are less distinct. The Scotch, or Wych Elm ( U. montana), and varieties possess great value for ornamental planting, usually hav- ing large leaves, broad forms and heavy verdure, and some are pendant in habit. The type is a fine spreading grower, i?. TheWeepingCamperdown Elm (var. Camper- doivni) is of unsurpassed excellence, and Avhen grafted eight feet high, forms, with its long, dark-green leaves and masses of luxuriant, hanging branches, a striking and picturesque object ; Avith slight training the tree forms almost a perfect arbor, C. Of others, the common Weep- DECIDUOUS TKEES AND SHRUBS. 29 ing Scotch Elm (var. j^endula) resembles the Camper- down, hut is rather less valuable; it has peculiar freaks of growth, the branches sometimes leaving the tree obliquely, then again in a horizontal or perpendicular direction, B. The Rough-leaved Weeping Scotch Elm (var. pcndula rugosa) is a valuable tree, with large, rough leaves, B. Tbe Crisp-leaved Weeping Scotch Elm (var. crispa), has crisped leaves. Huntingdon's Elm (var. Huntingdoni), and Blandford's, or Superb Elm (var. superba) are Scotch Elms of value, the former very erect, A; the latter, a majestic tree, with smooth, grayish bark, the foliage attractive in color, and forming a fine specimen soon after planting, A. The Broad-leaved Elm (var. lati- J'olia), a handsome gi'ower, B, and Dampier's Pyramidal Elm (var. pyramidalis Dampieri), an elegant jiyramidal grower, B, are desirable varieties. The White-margined Scotch Elm (var. alba marginata) is a delicate-growing variety, said to be superb if grown in partial shade. The Ash-colored Elm ( U. )no)dana, var. cinerea), Avith fine, Hch-looking foliage. A, and Dove's Elm {U. Doimi), of pyramidal shape, and vigorous, being valuable for street- planting, are worthy of mention as ornamental species. The native Red, or Slippery Elm ( U. fulva) is a fine tree for large lawns or street planting, but the growth is somewhat straggling, B, There is also a weeping form of the last named (var. j^endida), which is well spoken of. THE OAK. Querctis. A. 0. An Oak that has had ample time and space for develop- ment, is almost the perfect type of all that is grand and expressive in a tree. The species are very numerous, vary- ing much in habit, size, and general appearance, and de- serve more attention in ornamental jilantijig than they have yet received. While some gi'ow slowly, others are scarcely excelled in their freedom of growth. The first ten described below are natives of the United States. 30 OENAMENTAL GARDEN IKG. Scarlet Oak {Q. coccinea), a rapid grower of pyramidal form, witli beautiful, liglit-green, deeply-cut leaves, which turn to an intense scarlet in autumn, A. White Oak ( Q. alba). This typical oak is large, broad, and majestic; leaves with rounded lobes, pale-green above and glaucous beneath, A. Swamp White Oak {Q. bicolor); handsome and tall; its large, sinuate-toothed leaves turning scarlet in au- tumn, A. Burr or Mossy Cup Oak {Q. macrocarpa), of spreading growth, Avitli very large, deeply-lobed leaves, which show some variation in size and form; 'acorns large, cup mossed. Southern Over-Cup Oak {Q. lyrata), a Southern tree, hardy in the North; with large, obovate-obloiig leaves, crowded together. Shingle Oak {Q. imhricaria). Laurel-like, lanceolate- oblong leaves, turning to rich carmine in the autumn, B. Red Oak {Q. rubra), a handsome, rajnd-growing tree, fine as a single specimen ; leaves large, sinuately-cut, assuming a deep red in the fall, A. Pin Oak {Q. palustris), a rapid-growing, pyramidal tree, valuable for streets; branches slightly drooping, with bright, glossy foliage that is very ornamental. Chestnut Oak {Q. Prinus). Leaves serrated, resem- bling those of the chestnut, a most beautiful species; will grow in very poor soil, A. Cut-leaved Chestnut Oak (var. lacinata) is a variety of the preceding, with cut leaves. Willow Oak {Q. Phellos), remarkable for its narrow, willow-like leaves and slender shoots; distinct, B. English Oaks. — These are distinct, and embrace some very valual)le sorts. The common English Royal Oak [Q. Robiir) is a grandly beautiful tree of rather slow growth, leaves of an uniform color on both sides, A. The fol- lowing are some of its leading varieties: Louett's Oak DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 31 (var. Louetti), differing from the type in having hirgsr leaves rather more hmceolate in form, A ; Purple-leaved Oak (var. atropurpurea), a beautiful tree but a slow grower, with dark purple leaves that hold color all sum- mer, very effective, B; Dark-leaved Oak (var. nigricans), said to be darker than the imrple-leaved variety, B; Golden-leaved Oak (var. concordia), a most effective variety, the leaves witli a ric'.i, yellow tinge, and pre- senting a peculiar waxy appearance, G ; Silver-leaved Oak (var. argent ea variegata), leaves somewhat mottled with white at their edges, B, There are some sorts that have striking leaf -forms, namely: Contorted-leaved Oak (var. contoria), with peculiar twisted leaves, B; Curled Pyramidal Oak (var. cucullata), the leaves of which are curled on tlieir edges; Cut-leaved Oak (var. laciniafa), one of the best cut-leaved trees known, leaves nearly di- vided to the mid-ril), tree of elegant habit, B ; Large- leaved Oak (var. macrophnUa); var. latifolia cucullata, singular looking, with broad leaves slightly turned down at the edges. The Weeping Oak (var. pendula), with long, slender, willow-like branches, and the Pyramidal Oak (var. fastigiata), a remarkable tree, growing some- what like the Uprigiit Poplars, but more slender, i^, all belong to the English or Royal Oak, and are desirable in ornamental planting. Of other foreign kinds the Turkey Oak ( Q. Cerris) is very desirable; of rapid growth, with tall symmetrical head; finely lobed, bright, shining leaves, which, after turning brown in the autumn, remain far into the winter on the tree, A. Mongolian Oak {Q. Mongolica), a rare tree with long, deeply notched, green-glaucous leaves. There are several desirable Japanese species, among them : Q. Daimio, with broad, glossy, dark-green leaves, of leathery texture, covered mth brownish down 32 OKNAMENTAL GAKDENING. when young; Q. dentata, with deeply-tootlied leaves that give the tree a pleasing ai^iiearance. THE HOKSE-CHESTNUT AND BUCKEYE, {^TJsCulus). A-E. The Horse-Chestnnt, including the American Buck- eyes, are much esteemed as ornamental trees the world over, for their regular forms, heavy, deep-green foliage and their flowers, which latter give the tree a magnificent appearance for weeks in the spring. The Common or European Horse-Chestnut {^E. Hip^jocastamim) is hardly excelled as a lawn or street tree; in time losing largely the sameness of form, which is conspicuous, and to some objectionable in the young trees, and taking on sufficient irregularity to produce a charming eifect of light and shade. In old trees, some branches will almost droop to the ground. A slight ob- jection to the tree is the litter it produces by dropping its buds and nuts in the fall, A. There are several fine varieties, namely: the Double White {yar. fore plena); the Double Eed (var. rubra flare plena), which possess the advantage of not producing fruit, hence litter on this account is avoided. The flowers of these are very attractive, and the form of growth may easily be kept shrub-like, B. Memminger's Horse- Chestnut (var. Mem- mingeri) is a variety, the leaves of which are sometimes slightly sprinkled with white, making the tree interest- ing, A. The Cut-leaved Horse-Chestnut (var. laciniata), has handsome leaves deeply and delicately cut, B. Van Houtte's Dwarf Horse-Chestnut (var. nana Van Houttei) is dwarfish, and very desirable for small places. The Ked-Flowering Horse-Chestnut {^E. ruhi- cunda) is now regarded as a distinct species; it is of slow growth, with dark-green leaves, and producing bril- liant red flowers in showy racemes, B. There is a Golden variegated variety {ydw foliis aureis), and a Dwarf Eed- DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 33 flowering viiriety (var. nana), both of which are desir- able, a The Chinese Horse-Chestnut (^^. Chinensis), of comparatively recent introduction, is a rapid grower with large leaves. The Buckeyes, sometimes called the Smooth-fruited Horse-Ohestnuts, were formerly placed in a separate ge- Fiff. 2. — DWARF HORSE-CHESTNUT. nus, Pavia. Botanists now group them as a section [Pavin), of u^scnlns. The Ohio Buckeye (^. glabra) has large, smooth leaves, and panicles of small, pale yellow flowers in early spring, B. The Yellow Buckeye {^E.fava) is a beautiful low tree or shrub, with pale green, downy leaves and bright yellow flowers, C. The Red Buckeye {^K Pavia) is a native of Vir- ginia and southward, forming a small-sized tree, with brownish red flowers, G. From this has sprung a num- ber of small Buckeyes, such as the Dark Red Buckeye (var. airosamjuinea), with dark flowers and smooth leaves; the Flesh-colored Buckeye (var. carnea puhescens). 34 OKXAMENTAL GARDENINrx. the Purple Buckeye (var. purpurea), with flowers of the colors indicated by the names: Whitley's Buckeye (var. Whitleyi), a fine variety, with brilliaut flowers and hand- some foliage. Among other Buckeyes, there is one known as ^. carnea superha, which is very distinct, with showy dark crimson flowers; and two very dwarf kinds, namely the Long Eacemed or Small Buckeye {^. pari'ifiora), figure 2, a valuable species of low spreading habit and at- tractive white flowers. The Dwarf-pendulous Buckeye {^. pumila pendula) has drooping branches. These dwarf Buckeyes {C-D), are well adapted to small grounds. THE CHESTNUT. Castanea, A-C. The American Chestnut (C. vesca, var. Amerir.ana) is a beautiful, neat tree, with long-pointed leaves, that have scalloped edges; produces sweet fruit, A. The Sweet or Spanish Chestnut [C. vesca) is a fine lawn tree, yielding a superior quality of fruit; a little tender north of Washington, B. There is a variety with slightly white margined leaves, known as var. argentca variegata, but the growth is not very satisfactory, C. The Dwarf Chestnut or Chinquapin {C. pumila), a native of Ohio and southward; is a neat grower, form- ing a globular head, with lance-oblong leaves, which are whitish underneath, C. A recent introduction is the Japan Chestnut (C. Japonica), which promises w^ell for hardiness, beauty, and fruit-bearing qualities. While preferring light soils, the Chestnuts also do well in clayey loams. THE POPLAR. Populus. A-B. No other trees will, as a rule, attain to effective pro- portions sooner than the Poplars, and on this account they possess special value in ornamental gardening for DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 35 creating effects quickly. Most of them are valuable as single specimens on the lawn. They are objected to by some, because sprouts come up from the roots. These are not difficult to keep down. The Poplars are desir- able for back-grounds, shade for stock-yards, and to plant in out-of-the-way places. Tlie White or Silver Poplar or Abele (P. aWa) is a fine tree with heart-shaped, dark-green, smooth leaves, silvery white beneath, A. The Gray Poplar resembles the preceding somewhat, but is more upright, and with leaves not so green above, or so white beneath. Alba Nivea is a variety with larger leaves than the type, but resembling it in other respects. All of these, while valuable trees for ornament, are disposed to sprout from the root. The Lombardy Poplar (P. dilatata) is the well-known erect, spire-like species, growing rapidly, and possessing peculiar value on account of its manner of growth, A. The Necklace Poplar, or Cotton-wood {P. monilife- ra), is a vigorous tree, with the young brandies angled; it has large leaves, and its catkins resemble a string of beads. The Carolina Poplar is a vigorous ornamental shade tree, A. A variety of this, named "Eugenie," is of pyramidal habit and rapid growth, with handsome, yel- lowish-green foliage. The Balsam Poplar (P. halsamifera) is a coarse, rank grower of erect habit, with large, shiny leaves; it sprouts, B. There are several handsome Weeping Poplars : namely, the Weeping, Large American Aspen (P. grandi- deniata pcnduld), a beautiful and very rapid grower, with slender branches that droop gracefully to the ground; valuable, B. Athenian Weeping Poplar (P. GrcRca pen- dula), a fine, weeping tree, with dark-colored catkins ; and the Parasol de St. Julien, anew drooping variety from France. The American Aspen (P. tremuloides) is a spe- 36 ORNAMENTAL GARDENHSTG. cies with long, slender leaf-stalks, which oause the leaves to quiver in the slightest breeze. THE TULIP TREE. Liriodendron. A. The Tulip Tree {L. Tulipifera) is a beautiful tree wherever it grows and flowers well. The trunk is straight, covered with grayish-broAvn bark ; leares round- ish, ovate, with two lobes near the base, and two at the apex, which appears as if cut off, of a charming light-green tint, and smooth. The llowers resemble single tulips. It requires a deep, loamy soil, and must be transplanted while young. The Gold-margined-leaved Tulip Tree is a recent introduction, with most beautifully margined leaves. May prove tender in the North. the hickories and OTHER NUT-BEARING TREES. A. B. The Common Hickory, or Shell Bark {Carya alba), is an ornamental tree of noble dimensions and a sjjread- ing habit, with the branches starting low down; excellent where the space admits. Handsome compound leaves of a rich, glossy green — darker than those of most other trees — and frequently measure twelve to fifteen inches long on vigorous specimens. The Black Walnut {Juglans nigra) is one of the grandest and most massive of trees, and well suited for embellishing large grounds. The bark is very dark in color, and deeply furrowed ; leaves compound, Avith thir- teen to seventeen leaflets, and exceedingly handsome, A. The Butternut (.7. cinerea) is another fine ornament- al tree, somewhat resembling the last, but rarely as hand- some, B. The European Walnut, or Madeira Nut {J. regia), forms a fine, well-balanced tree, thickly clad with warm, russet-lined foliage, A. There is also a Cut-leaved variety (var. lacinata) and a Dwarf variety {yax. jrraepar tar tens) of this. DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 37 THE PLANE, OR BUTTONWOOD. Platunus. A. In Paris and other large European cities, our native American Plane, or Ik^TTONWooD {P. occi dental is), is esteemed above all other trees for street planting, but, strange as it niay seem, in this, its native country, it suffers badly in most places from a fungus which destroys the young growth. The Oriental Plane {P. orientalis) is less liable to the same trouble, though not free from it. As they are of great value, they are nevertheless worthy of trial by planters. THE maple. Acer and Negundo. A-F. The Maples, in their many species and varieties, possess a value as ornamental trees of the very highest order. The trees are of free, in some kinds of rapid growth, and healthy ; they are ada]ited to all soils, and are seldom troul)led by insects. Their foliage is handsome, appears early, and goes out in the fall, in various gorgeous tints. Some maples have richly-colored leaves all through the season, and the leaves of others are of singular shape, while a few bear attractive blossoms. The Sugar Maple {A. saccliarinum) is a well-known native species, admirable in form, foliage, and habit. It is one of tlie best for street and lawn-planting, A. The Black Sugar Maple (var. nigrtmi), a variety of the last, has dai-ker leaves, with their lobes more rounded, A. T iie Red, or Swamp Maple [A. ri(hrum), also a native, is noted in early spring for its showy, red blossoms, and in autumn for the extreme brilliancy of its foliage, B. There is a fine dwarf form of this, called the Dwarf Scarlet Maple {\ar. fidgens of some, and var. tometitosum of other authors.) The ISToRWAY Maple (A. plafanoides) is a tree of spread- ing, rounded form, broad, shining leaves, producing dense 38 OEITAMEKTAL GARDEKING. shade, and of free growth ; is worthy a place in eyery roomy garden,^. The Curled-leaf Maple (yawcucnUatum) is a variety of the Norway, with leaves more or less curled, giving the tree a curious appearance. There are, at least, three cut-leaved varieties of this species, all valuable; the Cut-leaved Norway Maple (var. dissectum), has its leaves so deeply cut as to almost divide them into three parts; the Eagle-claw Maple (var. laciniatum), with leaves deeply cut, pointed and curled ; and the Lorberg's, Norway Maple (var. Lorhergii), which has very deeply cut leaves, of a bright, reddish hue when young ; Schwerdler's Norway Maple (var. Bcliuerdlerii) is a promising new vari- ety, with leaves that are richly variegated in the spring Avith purple and crimson. The Silver-leaved Maple {A. dasycarpum), gives a number of valuable varieties, mostly of open, slender growth. The tree is a rapid grower, the foliage bright- green above and silvery white beneath. New Cut-leaved Silver Maple (var. heterophyllum hici a iafttm) ,\ery di&tinct and fine; somewhat inclined to "sport," O. Wagner's Cut- leaved Silver Maple (var. Wagneri), of great value ; droop- ing gracefully, and with dee})ly dissected leaves. The Crisp-leaved Silver Mai)le (var. crispum novian), with leaves that are deeply-cut as well as curled, rendering the tree singularly attractive. The European Sycamore Maple (A. Pseudo-Plata- mts) is a handsome, strong-growing tree, with large leaves, which have long, reddish leaf stalks. V^aluable for the sea-shore and exposed places, as it will grow erect where the winds would cause other trees to lean, A. Douglas's Sycamore Maple (var. Douglasi) has smaller and more pointed leaves than the type. There are two beautiful varieties, with peculiar leaf coloration, that render them valuable for creating contrasts of foliage in plantations. The Golden-leaved Sycamore Maple (var. aureo-variegata), a haudsojne ornamental tree, with the leaves distinctly DECIDUOUS TREES AiiD SHRUBS. 39 and permanently marked with yellow, B, and the Purple- leaved Sycamore Maple (var. purpti7'ea), with greenish- purple foliage, the under side of which is singularly hand- some. The Velvety Maple (var. velutinmn) is a rapid- growing form, with large, dark-green, five-lobed leaves. In recent years the Maples, Avith richly-colored leaves introduced from Japan, have attracted much attention. At first the indications seemed to be against their hardi- ness, but as the trees attain more age, and as the stock is propagated in this country, they appear to be more hardy, and they will undoubtedly prove valuable under careful culture. Thus far, the wonderfully rich colors of the leaves have faded in summer, but even this defect prom- ises to be remedied as the trees grow older. The species itself, Acer poly morphum, is very showy and of compara- tively free growth; it is the parent of many varieties, of which the following five are perhaps the best of the many Japanese Maples thus far introduced : — The Blood-red- leaved Japanese Maple (var. sangiiineum), with purple or rich red leaves ; the Dark Purple-leaved Japanese Maple (var. atropurpur^eum), of deep-claret tint ; leaves very deeply cut ; Various-colored Japanese Maple (var. ver'sicolor), of free growth, as compared Avith others, and picturesquely spotted with white, pink, and green ; Cut- leaved Purple Japanese Maple (var. dissectum), beauti- ful rose-colored leaves and branches in the new growth, changing to deep purple later; leaves delicately-cut, giv- ing them a fern-like appearance ; of dwarf, weeping and graceful form ; Netted-leaved Japanese Maple (var. reti- cnlatum), dceply-lobod, greenish-whitish leaves, traversed by a network of light, yellowish veins. There is also a variety with whitish leaves. There are two other distinct Japanese Maples worthy of mention : The Red Colchicum Maple {A. Colchicum riihrum), of bright, crimson color in the young leaves and wood; rather tender; and the 40 ORKAMENTAL GARDENING, Palmate-leaved Maple {A. palmatum), with small leaves, having reddish leaf-stalks and veins, the tree in time assuming a weeping form. The English, or Cork-barked Maple {A. campesir-e), is a remarkably handsome, slow-growing tree of com- pact habit, Avitli very dark-green leaves; sometimes grown in a shrub-like form. The Large-leaved Maple {A. macropliylluni) is a stately tree with immense leaves, but rather tender in the North while young. Striped Maple (J. Pennsylvanicum) is an elegant tree with light-green foliage and distinctly striped bark. Tartarian Maplk {A. Tartaricum) is of irregular habit, but making a handsome tree, with small, light- green leaves and light-colored, smooth bark. The Ash-leaved Maple belongs in a distinct genus {Negundo), but closely related to the common Maple. Ash-leaved Maple, or Box-Elder {Negundo aceroides), is of rajiid growth, with small, light-green foliage, resem- bling that of the Ash, and Maple-like fruit. The bark on the young wood is greenish-yellow, 0. Curled Ash- leaved Maple (var. crispum), has the foliage curled and somewhat cut. Variegated Ash-leaved Maple (xai'.foHis argenteis variegati^i), a variety distinctly marked with white, more so, perhaps, than any other white-leaved tree in cultivation. Extensively used in French gardens, but liable to be sun-burned here, F. THE BEECH. Fagus. A. C. The Beeches are highly esteemed, picturesque trees, with rich, glossy leaves and smooth bark which, in some, is of a very light color. The light and shade of the ver- dure is usually disposed horizontally, giving to the trees a distinct appearance. They prefer light, loamy soils; the roots keep near the surface, on which account grass DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 41 does not thrive well under tliem, unless it is kept well watered. All the Beeches can he kept closel}^ pruned, to adapt them to small grounds, or for use as hedges. The American Beech {F. ferruginea) is an elegant tree of fine form, with rich leaves, and smooth, light- colored bark, B. The European Beech {F. sylvatica) is very ornament- al, with spreading branches, which in time often droojJ gracefully almost to the ground; leaves thin, ovate, and obscurely toothed, A. Among the fine varieties that have sjirung from the European Beech, those with purple leaves stand very high, as being the most attractive trees with pur])le foliage in cultivation. The Cojr.Moisr Purple-leaved Beech (var. pm-pio'ea) has dark, reddisli-purple foliage in the spring, changing to crimson and then to pnrplish-green during the season, B. Rivers" Purple-leaved Beech (var. puipurea Biversii) is darker and more effective than the common purple-leaved variety, B. Large-leaved Purple Beech (var. 2)urpurca major) is a variety with large, shining, dark-purple leaves, which are exceedingly rich and effective, C. The Copper- colored Beech (var. cupreci) resembles the Common Purple Beech somewhat, but has lighter-colored leaves, with darker-colored young shoots. Another variegated Beech, widely different in the color of its leaves from these de- scribed, and one that contrasts markedly with them, is the Golden Variegated Beech (var. aurea varicgata). with leaves dee})ly margined with yellow, rendering the tree very distinct and handsome. Among other valuable sorts belonging to the European, are tlie Weeping Beech (var. pendula), a most picturesque tree, with long, tortuous branches, upon which the foliage is apparently piled in masses; the tree often seems to be deformed when young, but in time becomes very ornamental, B; the Broad- leaved Beech (var. macrnpliylla), of vigorous habit, with 42 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. large, handsome foliage, C ; the Cut-leaved Beech (var. lacinata), of medium size, compact, pyramidal form, and possessing great elegance, B; the Fern-leaved Beech (var. as.pleniifolia) , somewhat resembling the last, but more rounded in form, and with fern-like leaves, delicately cut, M» \^ '•-■'/«»/: ■'-.' I. "til Fig. 3. — CATALPA BIGNONIOIDES. B ; the Crested-leaved Beech (var. cristata), a curious variety, with small, curled leaves, not remarkable for beauty. THE CATALPA. Catcilpa. A-E. Trees at maturity of different sizes, conspicuous on account of their large leaves of a soft hue^ with showy DECIDUOUS TltEES AKD SHRUBS. 43 flowers, which are followed by long seed pods which often hang until spring ; noted for the rapid growth of the large native kinds. The Common Catalpa, or Indian Bean (61 bigtiotii- oides, sometimes called C. syringmfolia), is a native of the Southern States, but does well in some jiarts of the North if protected when young; leaves large, showy, heart-shaped, presenting a peculiar, tropical appearance; flowers white, tinged with ijurj^le and yellow, A. The Golden Catalpa (var. aurea) somewhat resembles the common s^iecies, but with the young leaves tinged with gold for a time. There is a Dwarf American Catalpa (var. luma), resembling most of the others, but of a bushy growth, and attractive, E. The Hardy Catalpa {G. speciosa), while less remark- able in appearance than tlie common, is hardier, and flowers earlier, A. Other dwarf kinds have been introduced from Asia, which are valuable. One of these is C. Kmmpferi, and another C. Bungei, but confusion prevails at i)resent as to their identity. THE LARCH. LaHx. A. The Larches are cone-bearing trees, without being ''evergreens," like the Spruces, Pines, and most other conifers. They mainly have a peculiar grace and beauty, with delicate, soft foliage, that contrasts well with that of most other trees and shrubs. They are valuable for adding to the effect and variety of grounds, and are adapted to all soils, but should be jjlanted very early in the spring, or in the fall. The European Larch {L. Europma) is of erect form, tapering very delicately ; is the kind most commonly planted, A. There are several desirable variations : the Glaucous European Larch (var. glauca), of fine appear- ance ; and the AVeeping European Larch (var. pendula), 44 OENAMENTAL GARDENING. the brandies of whicli assume most grotesque forms, and being clothed with fine glaucous foliage, the tree has a very picturesque appearance. The American Larch, Tamarack and Hackmatack [L. Americana), is a tall, pyramidal tree, with a very slender trunk ; less desirable than the European species. The Japan Larch {L. leptolepis) is a slender-grow- ing kind, with reddish-brown shoots, and leaves that turn to a rich yellow in the autumn. THE ASH. Fraxinns. A-D. While some of the Ashes do not rank high as orna- mental trees, there are a number of most excellent species and varieties which are entitled to be classed among the finest trees in cultivation. The American White Ash {F. AmeiHcana) is a fair shade tree, thriving in almost any location, witli broad, round head, straight, clean trunk and compound pinnate leaves, A. Bosc's Ash (var. Boscii) is a fine and dis- tinct American variety with dark, glossy foliage, B. There are some valuable variegated sorts, among which are the Gold Spotted-leaved Ash (var. jiunctata), the leaves of which are strongly marked, and blotched with golden yellow, giving the tree a very effective appearance — in this respect exceeding all other trees with golden- hued foliage. Tiie Aucuba-leaved Ash (var. aucuhtefolia), with distinct splashes and spots of yellow on the leaves, remaining through the season, C. The Walnut-leaved Ash (var. jufjlandifoUa) strongly resembles the ^\'alnut in the form of leaves ; valuable only in large collections, B. The Cloth-like-leaved Ash (var. pannosa), a native of the Carolinas, has beautiful foliage, somewhat re- sembling that of Bosc's Ash but larger, B. Eufous- liaired Ash (var. rvfa) is a distinct and ornamental variety, of upright habit and dark green leaves, B. The DECIDUOUS TREES AXD SHRUBS. 45 Showy Ash (var. spectabilis) has large, glossy, leathery leaves, of dark grceu color. The European Ash {F. excelsior) is a spreading tree, with a handsome head, a short thick trunk and heautiful pinnate leaves, B. There are two pendulous varieties, the "Weeping European Ash (var. pendula), a valuable, rapid grower, that may serve as an arbor on the lawn, C ; and the Golden-barked Weeping Ash (var. aurea pendula), an elegant but quite tender tree, with bark as yellow as gold, C. The common Golden-barked Ash (var. uurea) is also a conspicuous tree on account of its yellow bark, twisted branches and fine foliage, and it is hardier than the last named, C. The varieties with peculiar leaf forms are interesting : Dwarf Crisp-leaved Ash (var. atrovirens), with dark green, curled foliage, arranged closely along the stem, f). Hooded-leaved Ash (var. cucullata), with singularly curled and twisted leaves, of pyramidal growth, C. Dwarf Globe-headed Ash (var. glohosa), a pretty round-lioaded tree when worked six or eight feet higii, with small myrtle-like leaves, D. AMllow-like-leaved Ash (var. salicifoUa), with narrow willow-like leaflets of pleasing habit, D. Another variety called scolojjendnfolia has leaflets as narrow as grass blades, and which droop curiously, D. The Single- leaved Ash (var. /nondplii/na) is a fine tree, with broad leaves, B. There is a l)eautiful variety of the Single- leaved (var. monopJujUi laciniata) in which the margins of the leaves are finely cut. The Variegated-leaved Ash (var. concavcefolia variegata) is said to be striking on account of its silvery white young leaves, tinged with pink, chang- ing later to light green. The Flowerixg Ash {F. Ornus) is a small tree which produces a profusion of pale or greenish-white flowers in clusters on the terminal branches in spring, on which account it is valuable for ornament, C. There are sev- 46 ORNAJIENTAL GARDENING. era! Japanese Ashes offered, but Avliicli it is feared are too tender to become generally useful. THE LINDEN, BASSWOOD, OR LIME. TiUa. A-B. Generally graceful, handsome trees of good size, with heart-shaped, serrate leaves, and producing heavy shade. The flowers, which are inconspicuous, aiv in some species much sought by the honey bee. The American Linden or Basswood {T. Americana) is a native of rapid growth, with very large leaves and fragrant flowers, A. The Broad-leaved Basswood (var. macrophyUa) is less common, and has yet larger leaves than the last. Both are desirable in large grounds. The European Linden and its varieties are (juiie distinct in appearance. The common European Linden {T. Europea) is well shaped, inclined to be pyramidal in form, thriving in almost any soil, and well adapted for lawns and avenues ; leaves are smaller and darker than those of the American Linden, A. European White-leaved Linden (var. alba) is a handsome, donse-growing variety, the leaves of which are downy beneath and smooth above, giving the tree a striking appearance, and constrasting strongly with other kinds. There is als:) the White- leaved Weeping Linden (var. alba-pcii(l}d(i), a valuable tree with large leaves and slender branches that incline to droop, B. The Cut or Fern- leaved Linden (var. laciniata) is a tree of good habit Avith rather small leaves that are deeply cut and twisted, B. Another cut-leaved variety is the Eed Cut-leaved Linden (var. laciniata rubra), the young shoots of which are of a bright rose color. The Broad-leaved Linden (var. platyphylla), with mas- sive leaves ; the Small-leaved Linden (var. microphylla) with leaves quite the reverse of the last as to size ; and the Grape-leaved Linden (var. vitifolia), with deeply- DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 47 lohed leaves, are all valuable. Among the European Lindens are some with attractive bark as follows : Pyramidal Linden (var. pyra^nidalu) , and Red-twigged Linden (var. ruhra), with young branches of reddish color ; and the Yellow-twigged Linden (var. sitlphurea), the Golden Broad-leaved Linden (vsir. plati/phi/Uu aurea), and the Hairy-styled Linden (var. dasystyla), with goklen-hued bark, showy in winter. The Japan Linden [T. cordata) is yet rare, it is of medium size, and has heart-shaped leaves. THE WILLOW. Salix. A. D. The Willow is a very large genus, having among its species many fine ornamental trees. Most of them are easily transj^lanted, thrive in any soil, and are of rapid growth. The Babylonian or Weeping Willow (*S'. Bahy- lonica) is a very common species, a gracefnl tree of large size, its fresh, bright green, wavy foliage making it at- tractive, particularly in conjunction with water scenery, A. A variety of this from France (var. Salamonii) is more npright in habit, while retaining the weeping style of growth. The Golden Willow {S, alba var. vitellina) is a dis- tinct variety of the White Willow, with yellow bark, very attractive both in summer and winter, B. The Goat Wij.low [S. Caprea), and some of its varie- ties are valuable ; the common kind being a medium- sized tree of spreading form with broad leaves, C. The excellent, and well-known Kilmarnock Weeping Willow is a variety of the last (var. pendida), when grafted low this forms a fountain-like tree of great beauty, with the branches reaching to the ground ; when grafted six or eight feet high, it forms an exceedingly graceful tree of umbrella shape ; its foliage is glossy ; habit vigorous, 48 OKNAMENTAL GARDENING. tliriving in any soil ; excellent for small grounds, D. Three-Colored Goat Willow (var. tricolor), has blotched foliage of three distinct colors, it is usually grafted from five to seven feet high, when it forms a handsome, small, round-headed tree, Z>. The American Weeping or Fountain Willow {S. purpurea-2)endula), a variety of an European sjiecies, is a small, slender-growing willow of Euroj^ean origin, which forms a remarkably handsome weeping tree when grafted on a large stem, D. The Rosemary-leaved Willow {S. rosmariuifolia), with small, silvery leaves so arranged on the branches as to give them a feathery ajipearance, D. The Royal Willow {iS. regalis), is an elegant tree with silvery leaves, which arc larger than those of the last named, both are of great value for contrasting with other trees, on account of their whitish api^earance and handsome growth, D. The Laurel-leaved Willow {S. Icmrifolia), and the Shiny-leaved Willow (6'. hicida), are both rapid growing trees, usually kept in a bush form, both have dark, glossy leaves ; those of the former species being the largest, C. Other Willows worthy of note, are the Silky Weeping AVillow {8. sericea pendula) , with small leaves and long, slender branches ; Wolsey's Weeping Willow (^S*. Wolsey- ana pendula), a small leaved, dwarf species ; Wisconsin Weeping Willow, higlily recommended in the West ; Ja- pan Weeping Willow {S. Japotiita pendula), Fiiim-leiiYed Willow {S. palmmfolia), a distinct-red stemmed tree with large leaves, and the Ring-leaved Willow {S. Bdbij- lonica, var, annularis), a useful variety of the Weeping Willow, the leaves of which are curiously curled. THE maiden-hair OR GINKGO. Ginkgo. A. The common species ((?. adiantifoUa), an introduction fi-om Japan, is a remarkable and elegant tree ; the leaves DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHKUBS. 49 resemble in shape the fronds of the Maiden-hair ferns {Adi(mtum), but are about three inches broad. The growth is naturally rapid and upright, but it can be trained against a house or over a trellis like a climber, and in this wa_y presents a most singular appearance. It is hardy as far north as Buffalo, in partially sheltered situations. There is a Broad-leaved Ginkgo (var. niac- 7-oph ijlla) , with leaves somewhat broader tlian those of the species, and a Varigated-leaved Ginkgo (var. variega- ta), a kind that sometimes only shows variegation in the leaves. The genus has been called {Salishuria), a name which must give way to the older Ginkgo. THE MAG]s'OLiA. IlagnoUa. A.-E. Wherever the Magnolias are known they are highly prized as ornamental trees. The lai'ge-leaved, native species are grand in their foliage and produce showy flowers ; while the Asiatic and hybrid sorts are magnifi- cent when in flower. They may bo planted either as single specimens or in open groups on the lawn with good effect, and they contrast well with evergreens. One drawback to their popularity is the difficulty of transplanting them. On this point the well-known nurserymen, Ellwanger & Barry, of Rochester, N. Y., say: "To insure success in the transplanting they should be moved in tlie spring, never in the fall, and the Chinese varieties at that period when they are coming into bloom, and consequently before the leaves have made tlieir appearance. Great care should be exercised in their removal, the fibrous roots being preserved as nearly as possible, and carefully guarded from any exposure to Avind or sun. While almost any good soil is sufficient to insure their growth, they succeed best in a soil which is warm, rich, and dry." Among the native species which may be named as valuable are the Cucumber Tree {M. acuminata), a rapid, upright grower, reaching size A, with oblong-pointed leaves, often 3 50 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. nine or ten inclies long ; bell-shaped, greenish j-ellow flowers: the fruit, when green, resembling a cucumber. The Heart-shaped Magnolia {M. cordata) blooms usually in May and August, producing tulip-shaped yel- low llowers ; the oval, slightly cordate leaves are downy beneath, E. Umbrella Magnolia {M. Umbrella), a rapid-growing tree, with immense, long, light-green leaves; creamy- white flowers, which are often a foot across, D. Great-leaved Magnolia {M. macropliylla) , has enor- mous leaves, two to three feet long; white, bell-shaped flowers, nine or ten inches across ; requires protection in the J^orth, C. Ear-leaved Magnolia (J/. Fraseri), leaves eight to twelve inches long, with ear-like lobes at the base; the Avhite flowers are six inches across, B. The Sweet Bay (J/, glaucci), Avith glossy leaves, whitish beneath ; flowers pure white, very fragrant ; if carefully trained forms a beautiful small tree, E. D. Long-leaved Sweet Bay (var. longifoUa), is a variety of the preceding, with larger leaves, and of stronger growth. Great Laurel Magnolia {M. grandiflora) is the Magnolia of the Southern States, not hardy north of Washington ; remarkable for its large, fragrant flowers and evergreen leaves. The Chinese and Japanese Magnolias, with their varie- ties and hybrids, are tlie kinds noted chiefly for their attractive flowering qualities. The YuLAN, or Chinese White Magnolia (J/, cnn- spicua), has bright, o])ovate leaves, pure white, fragrant, medium-sized flowers, which appear before the leaves, E. Purple Magnolia {M. purpurea) resembles tlie last- named, but the flowers are dark-purple on the outside, and wliite within, E, DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 51 Slender-growing Magnolia (var. gracilis), a grace- ful and finer formed variety of the above, witli a more slender, fastigiate growth, E. Very Dark-purple Japan Magnolia (J/, atropur- purea), has the darkest flowers of all the Magnolias; later in bloom than the Chinese, B. Hall's Japajst Magnolia (if. stellata), a very early- Fig. 4. — MAGNOLIA STELLATA. flowering sort, with pure white flowers, the petals arranged in double rows. M. Iiypoletica and M. parviflora, are com- paratively recent introductions of promise. The hybrids produced between the siiecies possess high 52 ORXAMENTAL GARDEKIJ^G. merits. One of the finest and hardiest of all in this sec- tion of Asiatic Magnolias is Soulan-ge's Magnolia (if. Soula7igeana), wliich closely resembles the White Chinese; fiowers cui3-shaped, white and purple ; foliage large and massive, C. The Showy-flowering Magnolia {M. speciosa), differs from the last-named in having smaller and some- what paler flowers, but jiroducing them in great profusion, and they remain longer on the tree than those of any other variety; forms a conspicuous specimen tree, C. Norbert's Magnolia {M. Norhertiana) , resembles Soulange's, but is lighter colored. Lenne's Red-flowering Magnolia (J/. Lennei), very large, deep-reddish-purple flowers, and good-sized showy leaves, C. Thompson's Magnolia (var. Tlwmpsoniana) , is a hybrid between the American Um- brella Magnolia and the Sweet Bay, partaking mostly of the character of the latter ; it has large leaves ; large, fragrant, creamy-white flowers, but it is tender in the North. Deciduous Cypress. Taxodium. A-C. The several trees that go by this name, are conifers, that shed their leaves every autumn like the Larches. They somewhat resemble the Larches in form of growth and the small size of their leaves ; but are less hardy, and thriving only in protected localities in the North. The Deciduous Swamp Cypress ( Taxodium disticJinm) is a stately tree of the Southern States, but succeeds in the North in protected places, A. There is a variety, known as the Weeping DeciduousCypress(var. pendulum), wliich is a fine tree. The Chinese AVeeping Deciduous Cypress {T. Si- nense pendidum and Glyptostrohus pendulus of the cata- logues), is now, by the best authorities, regarded as a va- riety of the al)ove. It is a beautiful, perfectly straight tree, with slightly drooping, horizontal branches and twisted foliage in tufts; sheds its lower branches with age. DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 53 THE KENTUCKY COFFEE TREE. Gymnocladus Cana- densis. B. A rapid-growing native tree, with charming, feathery foliage, of twice-pinnate leaves, and bark that is singu- larly rough, even in small trees. THE AiLANTHUS. Ailantlhus glandulosus. B. A rapid-growing tree, with elegant, long, feathery foli- age, exempt from all diseases and from nearly all insects. This tree may be employed to great advantage in "sub- tropical gardening,'' by cutting it down to the ground an- nually. Each spring a vigorous shoot will appear, fur- nished with most luxuriant leaves of a tropical aspect. The sole objection to the tree is its unpleasant odor at flowering time. This may be avoided by propagating (by means of root-cuttings) from those ti'ees that have pistil- late, or female, flowers only. THE LIQUIDAMBAR, OR SWEET GUM, OR BILSTED. Liquidanibar. B. A genus of but two species, one growing in tropical Asia, and the other in our own country. L. Styracijlua is a desirable tree, somewhat resembling the Maples in the shape of its leaves, and the Walnuts in the rough- ness of its bark. The foliage, when bruised, gives off a fragrant, odor. In autumn the tree assumes a most brilliant appearance, the leaves turning red and yellow. THE YELLOW-WOOD. Cladrastis tinctoria. B. This is generally conceded to be the finest, hardy-flow- ering tree known. In .June its white, pea-like, fragrant flowers appear in long, hanging clusters that almost cover the tree, giving to it an exceedingly handsome appearance. The tree is of medium size, with a peculiar graceful sweep to the branches. Leaves compound, of a delightful green, changing to yellow in the autumn. A slow grower for several years after planting. The tree is sometimes 54 ORKAMENTAL GARDEKIKG. called Virgilia, a name that by priority belongs to an African tree. THE PEPPERIDGE, OK SOUR GUM. NlJSSa. B. This is a picturesque tree, with fine, glossy foliage, arranged in distinct, horizontal lines of liglit and shade, something like the American Beech, and turning to deep crimson in tlie autumn. The northern species is N. multijlora. THE SOPHORA. Sophova. B-D. There are two Sopboras grown for ornament, namely, the common Japan Sophora (*S'. Japonica), and the Weeping Sophora (var. pendula), both of which bear a resemblance in delicacy of leaf and flowers to the Robinias, or Locusts. The former is a round-beaded, upright grower of much beauty, producing in summer small, cream-colored flowers in racemes, B. The latter is naturally a strong-growing, trailing shrul), l)nt if grafted on the common kind at seven or twelve feet high, forms a small weeping tree of picturesque appearance. The young branches of both are green, and singularly contorted. They should be planted on well drained soil, and only in sheltered places throughout the North. the alder. Alnifs. B. A genus of rapid growing trees, especially valuable for planting in moist places, altliougb all do well on dry land. While some possess but little beauty, others are hardly excelled in attractiveness for lawn decoration. Among valuable of tbe Alders are : The European Alder {A. glutinosa), with showy, roundish foliage, B. Of this there are three cut-leaved varieties known respectively as the Imperial Cut-leaved Alder (var. laciniata imperialis) , a stately tree of vigor- ous and graceful growth, and large deeply-cut leaves, DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 55 very elegant for the lawn, B. The Common Cut-leaved Alder (var. laciniafa), less attractive than the last ; and the Hawthorn-leaved Alder. There are also the Oak- leaved Alder (var. quercifolia) , and the Red-leaved Alder (var. ruhronervis), the latter having large leaves on strik- ing red leaf-stalks. The Hoary or Speckled Alder {A. incana) is a dis- tinct native species of vigorous growth. Its leaves are broad, somewhat toothed, and whitish underneath. A cut-leaved variety of this (var. laciniata) makes a hand- some tree, with its broad, deeply-cut leaves. The Linden-leaved Alder {A. tiliacea) is a fine kind, with large, deep-green, hearted-shaped, glossy leaves. There are also several Japanese species in culti- vation. THE MULBERRY. MOVUS. B. C. Trees mostly with large, shining leaves, that have a singularly fresh and luxuriant appearance, even in the dryest of seasons, on wliicli account they are favorites wherever tliey do well. Unfortunately the trees are apt to take on a bad, open style of growth some years after planting, Avhich greatly mars their beauty. Some pro- duce edible fruit. The Red Mulberry (Morus ruhra) is an American species with large, luxuriant, heart-shaped, rarely-lobed leaves. The White Mulberry {M. alba) is more slender, and has smaller leaves than the Red ; it is grown as food for silk worms. Fruit pinkish-white, C. There is a variety of the last with larger leaves, sweeter and darker fruit, and of a compact, pyramidal habit, called var. fadigiata. Downing's Ever-bearing Mulberry is a fine variety, yielding delicious fruit, B. Several Asiatic species are also grown, such as the Black Mulberry {Morus nigra), of moderate growth. 56 ORNAMEKTAL GARDENING. ■Japan Mulberry {M. Tukwa), a stronger grower than the last, with hirge, shining leaves, often curled and crimped when developed. PAPER MULBERRY. Brousso7ietia. The Paper Mulberry {B . papyrifera) is so called be- cause the Japanese and other orientals make a substitute for paper from its inner bark. The species and its varieties are handsome, small-sized trees, of rapid growth, with smaller leaves than those of the common Mulberries. A little tender north of Pennsylvania, C. THE paulownia. Pauloivnitt imperialis. B. This, also known as the Empress Tree, presents a most striking appearance under favorable circumstances. It has immense leaves, a foot or more across, and beauti- ful, gloxinia-like flowers, in upright panicles in May. Being somewhat tender in the North when young, and the wood becoming brittle and easily broken by winds when old, the tree should be planted in a partially sheltered place, and if the soil is poor, the growth will be the liner for it. Suitable for the sub-tropical garden, with annual cutting down. THE BIRCH. Betnla. B. C. The Birches possess a grace and elegance in their light, airy foliage, and slender, clean, often white, branches, that is without equal among trees. Most of them are specially valuable in small places where large shade trees are objectionable, but where some tree verdure is needed to break the lines of buildings or give balance to a place, as well as for shade. They thrive in any soil, even the poorest. The European White Birch {B. alba) and its varie- ties are especially valuable. The typical form is an ele- gant tree of pyramidal outline, and the small branches DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 57 are pendant. These latter, of a reddish color, contrast finely against the whiteness of the trunk and main branches, B. Tlie Cut-leaved Weeping Birch (var. pendula laciniafa), this pojnilar and charming tree re- sembles the species in many resjjects, but has delicately- cut foliage, and a most graceful appearance, which makes it a tree of the very first importance in ornamental jilant- ing, B. Two other varieties : Young's Weeping Birch (var. pendula Youngii), considered by some the finest of all the Birches, being of rounded, picturesque form, with graceful, thread-like shoots, several feet long. The Elegant Weeping Birch (var. pendula elegans) has the branches pendant towards the ground, and directly par- allel with the trunk, both have the white bark of the species, and are remarkable for their elegance, D. The graceful Weeping Birch (var. tristis) is a variety of pic- turesque habit with ligiit branches, arranged in clumps, and reaching almost to the ground. The Purple-leaved Birch (var. foliis purpureis), an effective kind with foli- age that is tinged with purple, C. The Nettle-leaved Birch (var. urticifolid) with leaves of dark-green, slight- ly cat, and pres'>nting a distinct appearance, D. 'X\\q. Downy-leavod B.reh (var. pube^^cen^), with roundish leaves, and slightly droo[)ing habit : and the Pyramidal Birch (var. fastigiata) of very erect columnar form. All the foregoing are varieties of the European White Birch, and possess marked value. Among American Birches the following are desirable for ornamental planting : Sweet or Cherry Birch {B. lenta), of rapid growth, with large leaves that come out early, and dark-brown bark, B. Paper or Canoe Birch {B. papyracea), very distinct, with brilliant white bark, which may be easily separated into thin layers. Poplar-leaved or American White Blrch {B. alba 58 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. var. populifolia), a rapid grower, with glossy, triangular leaves, B. Yellow Birch {B. lutea), with golden-yellow bark, B. The Low Birch {B. pumila), a shruby form, has numer- ous, round, sharply-crenated leaves. The newly introduced species {B. costaia), is a fine tree of erect habit, with the branches somewhat droop- ing, and with dark, heart-shaped leaves. The Indian Paper Birch {B. Bhojpalfra) is distinct, of upright habit and with large, heart-shaped leaves. B. LOCUST. (Often called Acacia.) Rehinia. B.-D. The Black or Yellow Locust {R. Pseudacacia) is a well-known native tree, with soft, graceful foliage, of refreshing tint and yellowish -white, fragrant flowers ; of only common value, B. There are a number of excellent varieties of this, such as the Golden Locust (var. aurea), a fine tree with golden-tinted foliage. Besson's Locust (var. Bessoniana) is considered the best of the Locusts, of upright growth, with luxuriant, dark-green foliage, and is thornless, B. A variety called hullata is more compact in growth, B. Bella- rosea is a thornless variety of vigorous habit, with delicate, flesh- colored flowers, tinged with yellow, B. Tliere are several varieties which have a characteristically erect habit, among these are the Pyramidal Locust {ya,r pyramidalis), with dark foliage, and one called fastigiata, resembling the Lombardy Poplar in form of growth. The variety spectahilis is a sort with straiglit, vigorous shoots and large leaves. There arc some varieties of a gobular form of growth, which are quite distinct in appearance, namely : Globe or Par- asol Locust (var. inermis) is a remarkabl}^ handsome, thornless tree, that may by clipping be kept as round as a ball, D. ; var. inermis rubra monstrosa, a tree of DECIDUOUS TREES AKD SHRUBS. 59 dwarf growth with bkish flowers ; var. inermis rubra, globe-headed, with white flowers tinged with pink. The EosE OR Moss Locust {R. hispida) is a native species of low irregular habit, but producing elegant racemes of rose-colored flowers in June and later, C. The variety grandijiora is extremely attractive when in bloom, the flowers, as well as the foliage, being much larger than those of the species. The Clammy Locust {R. viscom), a native, is a beau- tiful, compact grower, with fine foliage, and i)ale-pink, odorless flowers ; slightly tender in the far North, D. A kind offered in some catalogues as the Japanese Acacia {Acacia Nemu) is said to be entirely distinct, and described as having handsome rose-colored flowers and delicate foliage. THE HONEY LOCUST. GUdiUcliia. B. The Common Honey Locust (fr. tviacanthos) is a tree with elegant foliage, and which, with proper shearing, is one of our best hardy hedge plants, B. There are several Asiatic species, embracing the Caspian Honey Locust [G. Cay)i''a), of strong growth and irreg- ular habit, with large foliage and white flowers, B ; and the Chinese Honey Locust {G. Sinensis). The Thornless Honey Locust {G.triacaiifhos, var. inermis) is a small, globe-headed tree, with elegant foli- age, B. The Weeping Honey Locust (var. Bx/'otii) is a va- riety of the common three-thorned species, of graceful, slightly pendulous habit ; liable to winter-kill in tlie North, unless growing where well protected. the persimmon. Diospyros. The American Persimmon {D. Virginiana) is the hardiest of the Persimmons, and this needs protection Avhen young, in the North. Large, smooth, thickish 60 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. leaves, and crab-apple-like fruit, that is edible after being severely frosted. The Japan Persimmon {D. Kahi), and the European Persimmon {D. Lotus), both possess fine ornamental qualities, but are not to be considered as hardy north of Eichmond. The former has a reputation for affording good edible fruit. THE NETTLE TREE. C'elHs. B. The American Xettle Tree or Hacks erry {C. occidentalis) is a desirable tree for ornament, with leaves resembling, in part, both the Elm and Apple, B. There are also several varieties of this. The European Nettle Tree {C. australis) is an in- teresting tree of vigorous habit, with long, slender branches and dark-green leaves. THE cercidiphyllum. Cercidipliylliim. B. C. Japonicum, the only species in cultivation, is a re- cent introduction from Northern Japan, and related to the Magnolias. Prof. Sargent says that it is perfectly hardy about Boston, and of great promise. Foliage small, compact, and graceful. Flowers small and incon- spicuous. THE FLOWERING APPLE AND MOUNTAIN ASH. PyrUS. B.-C. The Flowering Apple and the Mountain Ash, both be- longing to the same genus, are herewith placed under one head. Of the former. The Chinese Double Rose-fiowering Crab {P. spectabilis) is a handsome growing tree, with attractive, fragrant flowers in May, 0. There is a variety of this with pale, semi-double flowers. The Garland Flowering Crab {P. coronana) is one of our most delightful, small, native trees. C'overed DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 61 in the spring with blush-colored flowers, which load the air with delicious fragrance for a long distance. Other ornamental forms are Rivers' Semi-double Crab, the Aucuba-leaved, and the Double-flowering Apple. The Mountain Asli section of the genus affords a num- ber of fine ornamental trees. The European Mountain Ash {P. aucuparia) is an excellent, handsome tree, o£ compact form, showing an abundance of scarlet berries from July until winter, C. There are several varieties of this, including the Weep- ing Mountain Ash (var. pendula), a valuable sort on ac- count of its curious habit of growth, />., and two dwarfs that are handsome. The American Mountain Ash (P. .J meric«;za) resem- bles the European in many respects, but is less desirable on the whole, B. The Elder-leaved Mountain Ash (P. samhucifolia) is another native, with j^leasing foliage, B. The Hybrid Mountain Ash {P. hyhrida) is a choice tree, with fine, large, grayish leaves, which produce a hand- some effect. The Oak-leaved Mountain Ash {P. quercifolia) is a handsome sort of vigorous habit, and with beautiful lobed leaves of bright green, B. The Golden-striped and the Golden Hybrid Mountain Ash, and some other varie- ties not included here, are valuable only in large col- lections. THE OSAGE ORANGE. Maclura auranHaca. B. A native tree of spreading, picturesque habit, and handsome, orange-like foliage, which gives to it a pleas- ing appearance. Well suited for making hedges in any but the northernmost parts of the country. THE SASSAFRAS. Sttsmfras officinale. B. This tree, well known for its sjiicy bark, is very hand- some for small pleasure grounds, if grown in a warm. 62 OKXAMENTAL GAEDENING. ricli soil. The foliage, which is small and usually two and three-lobed, is of a soft texture and has a warm green color. There is a peculiar beauty in the soft outlines, and lights and shades of this tree, that renders it quite distinct in appearance. AMELAJ^^CHiER. MespUus, Medlar. B.-F. To simplify matters, I bring together here the orna- mental species of the kinds above named in the head. They are all closely related to, and somewhat resemble, the apple and thorns in leaf and forms of growth. Service-berky, Snowy Mespilus, Shad-floaver AND June-1!EREY% are names used in different localities for Amelancliier Canadensis. A small native tree, which is especially variable in size, character of its leaves, and abundance of its flowers; the var. Boiryapium is one of the most pleasing, and in spring is covered witii a pro- fusion of snow-white flowers. The Common European species {A. viilgans) is sometimes cultivated. It has smooth leaves and small, white flowers. The Medlar {Jlespil/is Germanica) is a small tree with curious tortuous branches, and large, white flowers. It is sometimes grown in hedges in Europe, and produces a fruit of little value, C. oenamental cherries, plums, almonds, and peaches. Prunus. B.-F. Eormerly the Cherry, Plum, Almond, and Peach were placed in different genera. Sometime ago, botanists united the Cherry (Cerasus) with the Plum under Priitius, and the more modern authors have placed the Almond {Amygdalus), the Peach (Fersica), and Apri- cot (Armeniaca) all under Pr-nnus. All of these have double-flowered varieties, which are highly ornamental and deserve more attention from planters than they have jet received. DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 63 The Double Flowering Cherry {P. avium, fl. pi), is extremely handsome when in bloom, being so densely covered with large, pure white, double flowers as to hide the branches. The Weeping Cherries. — The Common Weeping Cherry belongs to the preceding species, and is a pleas- ing variety with drooping branches. The Weeping Bigarreau Cherry is a good sized, handsome tree, with graceful, pendant branches. The Dwarf Weeping Cherry is a very small, beautiful tree, suited to small plots. The Weeping Sour Cherry is a fine drooping variety, and a new double Cherry from Japan with rose-colored flowers, is regarded as a promising ornamental tree. The European Bird Ckeury (P. Fadtis), belonging to the same section of the genus as our Wild Cherries, is an admirable lawn tree. It has a handsome form, good foliage, and a profusion of white flowers in long racemes in May, C. There are two fine forms with variegated leaves: The Aucuba-leaved Cherry with deep-green leaves, speckled and splashed with yellowish-white, C; and the Variegated Bird Cherry, with leaves dotted aiul blotched with yellow ; both have a slender drooping habit, C. Of the Flowering Plums, those bearing the most re- semblance to the CDmmon Plum are : the Doulde Flow- ering Sloe {P. si^inosa, fl.ore 2)leno), from Japan, Avith daisy-like, white flowers in spring, followed by purple fruit, E.; and the Common Double Flowering Plum (P. domestica, fl. ])l-), E. Some dwarf Plums are among our best ornamental shrubs. The Double Flowering Plum (P. triloba) is a very fine, hardy shrub, with beautiful, d 'licate-pink, semi-double flowers, arranged closely along the branches, and forming compact spikes. P. tomentosa, from Japan, is a fine shrub, with plaited leaves, but inconspicuous 64 OEISTAMENTAL GARDENIXG, flowers, G. P. Sinensis, of some, is a distinct species, with small flowers earh' in the spring, followed by necta- rine-like fruit. The Flcwering Almoxds belong here. Some of the so-called Flowering Almonds are properly plnrns or cher- ries. One of the best known is the Double White Floweriistg Almoxd, a small tree with a great profnsion of double white flowers in early spring. It has very rich foliage. The Kose-flow- ered Almond resembles the preceding, except in the color of its flowers. The Dwarf Flowering Almoxds {Primus [amygda- lus^ nana) are very old garden favorites, their double flowers are rose -colored or white, and produced in great profusion. The Flowerixg Peaches, when properly pruned, are very handsome, but if left to grow at will, form unsightly broad heads. There is a double white and a double rose- colored variety, and one in which tlie flowers are curious- ly variegated, being white and rose-colored upon the same tree. The Blood-leaved Peach has its foliage in spring and early summer of a bright, crimsom color, Init later it turns to a dull green. THE LABURNUM OR GOLDEX CHAIX. Lahumum. 0. Ornamental, profuse-flowering, small trees and shrubs, which succeed in almost any soil, but at the North are apt to be injured in winter. The CoMMOX Laburxum or Goldex Chaix {Lahur- 7ium vidgare) has glossy, trifoliate leaves and drooping racemes of yellow flowers, which give the tree a very rich appearance. Alschixger's Laburxum {L. Alschingeri), and Park's Laburxum {L. indgare, var. Parkii), are dis- tinct forms, and i^roduce similar racemes of yellow flow- DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 65 ers. The Oak-leaved Laburnum (var. qiiercifolia), and the Large-leaved (var. marrnplnjUa), are other varieties of merit. The Purple-flowered Laburnum, so called, belongs to the closely related genus Cytisus {C. purjjureus). It produces racemes of golden flowers. The Alpine, or Scotch Laburnum {L. alpinuiu), is regarded as the hardiest of the genus ; of dense, irregular, spreading form, reaching size B in good soil. Foliage large, smooth, and dark. Flowers golden-yellow, in long racemes. THE HORNBEAM. CarjUHUS. C. The American Hornbeam (C. Americana) is a small, neat-looking tree, with wiry branches and leaves that resemble those of the Beech. Handsome whether planted singly or in groups. It is also a good hedge plant. The English Hornbeam ( C. Betulus) resembles the above, but is of stronger growth, C. There is a dwarf variety of this (var. pendula), which, when grafted standard high, makes a beautiful, round-headed tree. The Hop-hornbeam or Iron-wood, belongs to a closely related genus [Ostrya Virginica). It has a re- semblance to the foregoing, but is more upright and slender, with smaller leaves. It is valuable as an orna- mental tree on account of its light, graceful spray. THE K(ELREUTERiA. KmlreuteHa paiiiculata. A low-growing tree, with fine, brilliant-green, pinnate foliage, which turns to a rich yellow in the autumn. Flowers golden-yellow, produced in spreading clusters in mid-summer, and with showy, inflated seed-pods in autumn. A native of China. THE JUDAS-TREE OR RED-BUD. Ccrcis. C.-E. The American Judas-Tree (C. Canadensis) is a small tree, with large, glossy, heart-shaped leaves, and 66 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. in spring, before the foliage comes, is covered all along the branches with delicate pink flowers in great profu- sion, G. The Oriental Judas-Tree (C. CJiinensis ; C. Japon- ica in some catalogues), is another valuable kind, more dwarf and compact than the American, with thick, roundish leaves, of a dark-green color, and has larger and brighter flowers, E. the VIRGINIAN OR WHITE FRINGE. CMonanthuS Virginica. C. This is a handsome small tree or bush, with large, glossy, acutely-elliptical leaves, and drooping racemes of fringe-like, white flowers in the spring ; a great favorite generally. THE DOGWOOD. Coruus. C.-G. The Flowering Dogwood {G. florida) is a fine, small tree, with glossy, grayish-green foliage, that turns to a most attractive red in autumn. Its chief charm is its large, pure- white flowers, produced in spring before the leaves appear. The showy portion of the flowers is really the bracts or ai:>pendages surrounding the clusters, the real flowers being small and inconspicuous. Delights in a well-drained, rich soil, G. The Weeping Dogwood, said to be a variety of G. florida, is described as being handsome, of upright growth, and pendulous branches, with flowers and foliage resembling the parent. The Eound-leaved Dogwood (C circinata) has roundish leaves, downy beneath ; young shoots green, blotched with purple ; small, white flowers in flat cymes, G. Alternate-leaved Dogwood {G. alter n if oUa), a beautiful shrub, but it may be trained in a tree form ; DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 67 it has yellowisli-whitc flowers, in May and June, and blue-blaek fruit in autumn, U. The Red-branched or Osier Dogwood {C. san- guinea), a species from Europe. It is a hirge, spreading bush, with blood-red bark that is conspicuous in winter, and especially so in early spring. White flowers, G. The Red Siberian Dogwood, (C. Sibirica, var. var- iegata), is a remarkable new shrub, with richer colored bark than the last named, and with leaves slightly mar- gined with a silvery color ; undoubtedly a great acquisi- tion. The Cornelian Cherry {G. Mas.), an European species, somewhat resembling the Flow'ering Dogwood, and bearing yellowish flowers early in the spring, with edible fruit later. The Variegated Cornelian Cherry (var. variegata) has richly variegated leaves, more than one half of their surface being of a clear silvery-white, giving the shrub an exceedingly handsome and distinct appearance, which renders it unequalled as a silvery- hued shrub, F, THE thorn. Gratcegus. G. H. There are many species of thorns in cultivation, not one of which is undesirable where room is abundant. All are well adapted for growing in lawns of small area. Some of the best are the double-flowering varieties, with red, pink, and white flowers. The Common Hawthorn [G. Oxyacantlm) is the cel- brated English hedge plant. The Arbutus- leaved, Apple- leaved, Pear-leaved, Glossy-leaved, Parsley-leaved, and many others are varieties of this species. Nearly all are of compact growth, and will grow in any soil and situation, producing their very attractive flowers most freely. They readily bear pruning, and are well adapted for hedges. The Evergreen Thorn (C. Pyracantlia) is a hand- 68 OENAMENTAL GARDENING. some, small species, that retains its dark-green foliage through the winter, it has purplish and white flowers, and red fruit ; there is a variety with wliite fruit. THE BUCKTHORN. Bliamnus catliarticus. Is a fine shrub for hedges. It has small, dark leaves, and inconspicuous greenish-wliite flowers. There is a variety of Buckthorn (var. latifolius) with larger leaves. THE WITCH HAZEL. HamameUs Virginica. A native, tall shrub, with somewhat downy leaves, in appearance resembling those of the Hazel. It is notable for producing its curious yellow flowers late in autumn, just as the leaves are falling, at the same time the cap- sules from the flowers of the previous year open and eject their seeds. Some recent introductions from Japan belonging to this genus are little known as yet. THE SUMACH. KJlUS. E. The Purple Fringe {R. Cotinus), known also as the Venetian Sumach, Smoke-Tree, Mist-Tree, Wig-Tree, etc., is an old favorite, which is prized for its handsome appearance at mid-summer and later, when it is covered with its large, cloud-like, masses of "fringe." These are really the enlarged branching and very hairy flower- stalks of abortive flowers. They are often tinged with red, and are very ornamental. The foliage has a fresh appearance and in autumn takes on rich colors. It should be grown in the form of a shrub, E. Osbeck's Chinese Sumach {R. Osheckii) is a new species with handsome foliage, that turns to attractive colors in autumn. The Fragrant Sumach [R. aromatica) is a showy, early-flowering shrub, the flowers of which are succeeded by showy berries. Several other native Sumachs are de- sirable for ornamental planting. Of these the DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 69 Staghorjst Sumach {E. typliina) is especially note- worthy on account of its elegant, comjjound leaves, which assume colors of great brilliancy in autumn, at Avhich time it bears its bunches of crimson berries, C. The Cl:t-leaved Sumach {R. glahra, var. lacmiata) is a variety of our most common native species, with re- markably handsome, fern-like leaves, which are dark- green above, and glaucous below. THE LILAC. Syringa. E. The Lilac, represented by a large number of species, and innumerable varieties, is one of our most valuable ornamental shrubs. Of the easiest culture in any or- dinarily good soil, witli attractive foliage and very fragrant flowers, it is rarely the case in adorning grounds, what- ever may be their size, that some of the Lilacs cannot be used to good advantage. Some are disposed to send up sprouts from the roots, but these may be easily ke})t down. They can be grown to a tree form with careful pruning, but should generally be trained with a low head. The well-known Common Lilac (*S'. vulgaris), with purple and white flowers, still ranks high in value. From this have sprung many varieties, some of which are improvements on the species. Some of these have larger flowers than the parent, or differently colored ; others vary in their habit of growth, there being both dwarf and stronger grcnving sorts, and there is one variety called Golden- leaved Lilac (var. variegata), with large, yellowish-green foliage, which is valuable for creating contrasts of color. The Asiatic species possess great value, being, as a rule, more graceful and delicate in form, and with smaller leaves than those of the Common Lilac. The Persian Lilac {S. Persica) has large panicles of somewhat loosely arranged, dark lilac flowers. This 70 OENAMENTAL GARDENING. forms a busli of great beauty when grown where it has a chance to develop. The Persian White LiUic (var. alha) is like the preceding, except in the color of the flowers. There is also a Cat-leaved variety. The Chinese Lilac {S. duhia, also >S'. Chinensis of some), is a species resembling the Persian, but with longer leaves, and of which there are several varieties, including reddish, purple, and white. Emod's Lilac {S. Emodi) is a distinct and choice Chinese species, which assumes a tree-like form, and has white flowers, D. The EouEN OR French Red Lila.c (>S'. duhia, var. Rothoinagensis), is said to be a hybrid between the Com- mon Lilac and the Persian, and embodies perhaps more good qualities than any other Lilac. The flowers are reddish, in numerous, large panicles, C. Josika's or Chionanthus-leaved Lilac {S. Josi- kcea) is a distinct and remarkably handsome variety, of strong, upright growth, and with long, rich, shining leaves. Flowers purple, appearing after other kinds have flowered. Verschaffelt's Lilac {S. VerschaffeJti) is another distinct variety, with flowers in large compact panicles, dark-red in tlie bud, changing to lilac as they open. THE caragana OR PEA-TREE. Caragatia. E. Low growing trees or shrubs from Asia, with peculiar acacia-like, light-green leaves, with a golden hue, and which contrast in a marked manner with most other shrubs. Flowers yellowish. The Siberian Pea-Tree {C. AUagana) is of i^leasing habit and quite hardy. The Chinese Pea-Tree {C. Chamlagu) throws up erect branches at first, but later they droop. DECIDUOUS TREES AKD SHRUBS. 71 The Arborescent Pea-Tree {C. arborescens) is up- right ill habit, but always remaius small. There are still other kinds named in some lists. the ELDER. Samhucus. E.-G. Large shrubs, with ornamental foliage, flowers and fruit, that entitle them to a place in large collections of shrubs. With the exception of the Cut-leaved they are rather coarse for small lawns. European Elder {S. nigra), of large, irregular, picturesque growth, Avith broad cymes of white flowers in mid-summer. Very popular in European ])arks, E. Golden-leaved Elder (var. aurea), a handsome, but rather coarse shrub, with bright, golden- splashed foliage, and sweet, white flowers in July. Variegated-leaved Elder (var. variegata), leaves edged and mottled with yellowish-white. Im[)roved by severe pruning occasion- ally, as the variegation on the young growth is the most attractive, G. Cut-leaved Elder (var. laciniata), a valu- able cut-leaved shrub, with elegantly divided leaves, G. The Common American Elder {S. Canadensis) is useful for ornament in large grounds, and can usually be procured without cost. snowdrop or silver-bell tree. Halesia. E, The Four-winged Snowdrop or Silver-bell {H. tetra/ptera) is a graceful shrub, bearing a profusion of pretty, white, bell-shaped flowers, resembling somewhat those of the little snowdrop, in May, and are followed by carious four-winged fruit. Thrives in poor soil and docs not object to moist places. The Two-winged Snowdrop (//. diptera) has larger leaves than the last uameil, and is less common. 72 ORNAMENTAL GARDENI NTG. THE HOP-TREE OK SHRUBBY TREFOIL. PteUa trifoUata. E. A large shrub or small tree of rapid growth, with handsome, smooth, trifoliate leaves in June, clustered whitish flowers followed by seed-pods, which in taste and odor resemble hops. Makes a handsome low tree, if trained Avith a single stem. THE TAMARISK. TamaHx. E. Slirubs of strong, irregular growth, with delicate, feathery foliage, somewhat resembling the Juniper, and with the branches covered with fine, pink flowers in June. The general growth is coarse. There are several species which do not differ mucli in appearance. The most generally cultivated is T. GalUca. THE SPICEBUSH. LincUra Benzoin. E. A large and rather pleasing native shrub, with light> green foliage, and small clusters of yellowish flowers, ap- pearing in early spring before the leaves. THE ARALiA. ArciUa. A genus comprising small, singular-looking trees, with large, showy, and much divided leaves. Useful for creating "tropical" effects in gardens. Of free growth, but needing a little protection in exposed places. The Oriental Aralia {A. Chinensis, also called A. Japonica), is of dwarf, spreading form, with prickly stems and shoots, large feathery leaves, and white flowers. The Mandschurian Aralia is a variety of the fore- going {A. Chinensis, var. elata, which has been called Dimorplianilius Mandshuricus) , is a Chinese species, with hairy and prickly bipinnate leaves. DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 73 Angelica Tree or Hercules' Club {A. spiuosa), a native kind, with stout stems, and very large leaves ; throws up suckers from the roots. spindle-tree or burning-bush. Euonijmus. E.-G. A genus with mostly pleasing foliage of a fresh green color, showing to fine advantage among other shrubs. They nearly all bear a profusion of crimson and scarlet or ornamental fruit, which renders the trees very attrac- tive in the autumn, and it is to this that most of them owe their common names. The Strawberry Bush {E. Americanus), a small bush, rarely over five feet high, with rich, shining leaves, and medium-sized scarlet berries, E. The Burning-bush or Spindle-tree {E. afropur- pureus), a handsome native species, of erect habit and fresh, green foliage, Avith bright crimson, or purplish fruit. The Broad-leayed Euontmus {E. lafifolms) is an exceedingly fine European species, with broad, glossy leaves, and large, deep-red fruit. The Winged Euonymus {E. alatus) from Japan is interesting on account of the Avings, that extend down the stems. The European Burning-bush {E. Europmus) is a a large species, with handsome foliage and fruit. Of this one there are several varieties that are quite orna- mental, such as the Purple-leaved Euonymus (var. afro- purpureus), with purple leaves in autumn ; the White- fruited Euonymus ; the Linear-leaved Euonymus, with narrow, dark-colored foliage, and of small size ; the Dwarf Euonymus, of dwarfish form, with dark-green leaves, G. The handsome, evergreen, Japanese kinds are very desirable where they will stand tlie winters uninjured. 4 74 OEKAMENTAL GARDENING. THE ROSE OF SHARON OR SHRUBBY ALTH.T.A. HiMsCUS. E.-G. Mostly free-growing shrubs of upright forms, produc- ing showy flowers resembling hollyhocks, in the late summer season, and at a time when few hardy trees and Fig. 5. — ROSE OF SHARON, VARIEGATED {HiUsCUS SyriOCllS, TSCT.) slirubs are in bloom. To keej) them in good shape, they should be closely headed-in annually. The first two winters after planting there should be a liberal coat of coarse litter applied over the roots in the North, to protect them from cold, and after that they will prove very hardy. All of the many varieties that are now offered in DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHllUBS. 75 nurseries, are descendents of H. Syriacus, a free flower- ing, but rather coarse grower. There are single and double flowering varieties of white, red, purple, pink, rose, violet, and other colors, and some are beautifully striped or blotched. The double flowering sorts are generally the handsomest shrubs. One of the most val- uable of the double flowering kinds is the Variegated- loaved Hibiscus (fig. 5), with leaves which are conspicu- ously marked with light-yellow, on a green ground, and one of the very best variegated-leaved shrubs; flowers purple, but not showy, F. THE MOCK ORANGE OR SYRINGA. PlulailelpllUS. E.-H. How the name Syringa ever came to stand so impro})- erly, yet generall}' for this genus, it is hard to tell, and its use both for these shrubs, and for the Lilac, where it rightly belongs, tends to confusion in names. However, it may be said that no collection of shrubs can be con- sidered complete without the presence of the Mock Oranges. They are noted for their sweet and showy, white, or nearly white, flowers, single and double, their handsome and free growth, and their remarkable adapta- bility to any place and soil. The Common or Garland Mock Orange (P. coro- narUi^), also called Garland 8yringa, is a rapid-growing, slightly coarse shrub, well known for its showy and fra- grant, white flowers, E. Double-flowering Mock Orange is an attractive semi-double-flowering form of the above. The Dwarf Mock Orange (var. nana) is a handsome, and very dwarf-growing variety, more valued for its generally fine and cleanly appearance, than for its flowers, whicli are shyly produced, H. The Golden-leaved Mock Orange is a very pretty dwarf variety, with yellow-tinged foliage ; valiial)le for single specimens, clum])s, or for contrasts of foliage, 11. The Dwarf Doucle-flowering 76 ORKAMENTAL GARDENING. Mock Orange (P. diatiiliiflora) is another low-growing variety of great beauty, with tine, double, creamy-white, fragrant flowers. There are several other species and varieties not vary- ing greatly in general respects from the sorts above de- scribed. The Large-flowering Mock Orange {P. yrandi- florus). Gordon's Late-flowering Mock Orange [P. Gordonianus). Eed-twigged Mock Orange (P. sanguin- eus), among older sorts, and P. laxus with very large flowers ; P. nivalis, with snowy-white flowers, among recent introductions, are perhaps entitled to special mention on account of their merits. THE VIBURNUM. Vibumum. E.-G. This genus gives us a number of our most valuable and interesting ornamental shrubs. They are perfectly hardy, of easy growth in most any soil, and produce both handsome foliage and flowers. For the sake of variety some may readily be grown to a tree form. The Common Snowball or Guelder Rose ( V. Opulus sterilis) is a well known variety, with large, globular cymes of pure-white, sterile flowers, of a very showy character, E. The High or Bush Cranberry ( V. Opulus) .is the original form of the Snowball, with coarser foliage and habit of growth, and less showy floAvers, the clusters of which have only sterile flowers around the margin ; those in the interior of the cyme are not showy, but are followed by scarlet, acid fruit, sometimes used as a sub- stitute for cranberries, E. A dwarf variety (var. nana) forms a much smaller bush, H. The Japan or Dwarf Snowball {V. plicaiinn) is a shrub of great merit, and is much finer than the common Snowball, with whiter flowers of the same form, a dwarf habit of growth and much handsomer foliage. The leaves are firm, plaited, of a rich green, and contrast DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 77 finely with the handsome, pnre-white flowers, G. Sever- al other introductions from Japan are announced, which are well spoken of. The Nepal Viburnum ( V. JVepalense) is a robust- growing species, with white flowers apjiearing later than most others. EouGH-LEAYED ViBURNUM ( F. rugosum) has large, dark-green, rough leaves, and white flowers in cymes, G. The LaN TANA-LEAVED ViBURNUM Or HOBBLE BuSH ( V. lantcmoides), also called the Way-faring Tree ; the Plum-leaved Viburnum ( F. prunifolium), the Withe- Rod ( F. nudum), and several other native species are also suitable for ornamental i^lanting. THE BUSH HONEYSUCKLE. Loniceva. E.-H. The Bush Honeysuckles are mostly strong-growing shrubs, of good habit, producing a profusion of fragrant flowers, which are generally followed by ornamental fruit. They thrive in any soil and situation. The Tartarian Honeysuckle {L. Tartarica) is a well-known shrub with pink, and there is a variety with almost white, flowers, E. Varieties of the Tartarian, known as the Large-flowering Honeysuckles, both pink and white, resemble the common, but are more robust in habit and have larger flowers. There is also one with variegated foliage (fig. 6), E. The Fragrant Bush Honeysuckle {L. frarfranfi^t- sima) is of low spreading growth, with branches thickly studded, before the leaves appear, with clusters of whitish flowers, having a delicious fragrance, G. Ledebour's Honeysuckle {L. Ledehourii) is a dis- tinct and very fine species. The flowers, which are yel- low, appear in June, and are followed by showy red bracts, which bear the appearance of flowers ; foliage a ^8 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. rich deep green ; a sliapely grower, E. Standish's Honeysuckle {L. StaiuUshii) has large leaves with April flowers, that are reddish outside and white within, E. The English Fly Honeysuckle {L. Xylosteum) has very Fig. 6. — TARTARIAN HONEYSUCKLE, VARIEGATED (Lonicera TavtaHca var.) sweet, pinkish flowers before the leaves come. A dwarf, native species with oval, downy leaves and blue berries, is called the Mountain Honeysuckle {L. cmrulea), H. THE STUARTiA. {Stuartia). E-G. 8. pentagiina is a charming low tree or shrub, resem- bling the Dogwood somewhat in its foliage, and produc- DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 79 ing creamy-wliite, saucer-shaped flowers in summer. A native of tlie southern mountains, it should be planted only in sheltered places in the Northern States, E. The Virginian Stuartia {S. Virginica) is another fine species, more dwarf than the preceding kind, but Fig. 7. — STUARTIA (SUtarfia pentagyna). resembling it in form, foliage, and time of flowering. Not hardy north of Virginia, G. Several recent in Pro- ductions from Japan have been reported, which have not been well tested as yet. 80 OKISI A MENTAL GARDENING. THE WEiGELA. DiervUla. E-H. A miicli esteemed genus of flowering shrubs which, while represented by a few natives of little value for any ornament, owes its fame to the handsome introductions from China and Jajian, and varieties of these. The Weigelas are good growers, profuse bloomers, and in their foliage always present a rich glow of vigor, that is most pleasing. Mostly erect-growing when young, but chang- ing later to a drooping form. The well-known and handsome RosE-coLOKED Weigela (Z>. ro.sea), which bears love- ly, rose-colored flowers in the greatest profusion in June, is the species from which have sprung either directly or by hybridization with others, most of the excellent sorts now cultivated. Its habit is all that could be <), linear, sharp-pointed leaves ; very dense, H. Globe-headed EVERGREEN TREES AND SHRUBS. 109 Arbor Vitae (var. globosa), dense, and globular, //. Hack- er's Arbor Vitfe (var. Hackerii), of dwarf habit, Avitli very dark foliage, H. Hoopes' Dwarf Arbor Vitae (var. nana), of conical form, and very compact in its growth, H. Dwarf Round-headed Arbor Vitas (var. rotundata), very dwarf ; deep green, with a crested appearance, H. The variety Tom Thumb is a miniature variety, of slow growth, with sharp-pointed, dark-green leaves, valuable for bold edgings or low hedge, H. The Retixisporas, or Japanese Arbor Yit.^, also known as the Japan Cypress, are among the handsomest and most easily grown evergreens in cultivation. Some of them are rather tender, but the hardier ones will thrive over nearly the entire country, and possess such positive excellence, as to be worthy of frecpient use. The Plume-like Retinispora {T. Plumosa) is one of the hardiest species ; a rapid grower, with pretty, small, bright-green leaves, and short, slender branches, G. There are several varieties of this. The Silver-spot- ted Retinispora (var. argcnfc(i) has the young shoots sprinkled with silvery white. The Golden-tiiiped Retin- ispora (var. aiirea) has a bright golden hue at the ends of the branches; one of the hardiest, //. The Obtuse-leaved Retinispora {T. ohfusa) is of remarkable beauty, and one of the hardiest ; leaves glossy-green above and silvery- white beneath, A. The Pea-fruited Retinispora {T. jn'sifera) is of small size and slender habit, with sharp-pointed, green leaves. There are several dwarf varieties of this last named species. The Thread-branched Retinispora {xaw fiUfera), of elegant pyramidal form, with the ends of the shoots drooping gracefully; bright-green foliage. The Golden Thread-branched Retinispora (var. aurea), with the branches of a beautiful golden color. The Ileath-like 110 ORKAMENTAL GARDENING. Eetinispora (var. ericoides) is a compact, cone-shaped bush, the leaves of which turn to a violet-red in winter. The Squarrose Eetinispora {R. squan^osa) is round- headed and bushy in its style of growth, with light, bluish-green foliage. R. leptoclada is of a bright, glau- cous-green color ; hardy in England, but perhaps not reliable in this country. The Chinese or Eastern Arbor Vit^ {Biota) are, as a class, too tender for the nortliorii parts of our country, unless, as sometimes happens, they may find a place that is well sheltered, or otherwise favorable to them. The species {B. orienialis) is of erect growth, Avith flat, light-green foliage. Of its varieties, the Golden Chinese Arbor VitiB (v;ir. aurca) is an excellent sort, of globular form and bright, golden-tinged foliage. Eollinson's Golden Chinese Arbor Vita? (var. chganiis- sima), of pyramidal form, and golden-hued folifige. Golden Arbor Vitae (var. semper aurea), a dwarf variety, of fine growth, with the golden tint remaining constant tliroughout the year. There is also a weeping variety {y-AV. Jiliformis penclula), and some others. THE JUNIPERS. Juuiperus. B to trailing. The Junipers are a beautiful and reliable class of hardy evergreens, and of such a range of adaptability, as in- fluenced by size and habit in the different species and varieties, that nearly every garden can employ some of them to great advantage. Among the smaller-growing species may be named : The Common Juniper [J. cow munis), with its varieties. The common one is a well-known native of America, Europe, and Asia, assuming a variety of forms, but generally pyramidal, and with some attention to shearing, makes a handsome specimen, E. The Canadian Trailing Juniper (var. aljnna, syn. J. Canadensis) is of dense, spreading habit, with silvery- hued foliage; fin^ EVERGREEN" TREES AND SHRUBS. 11] for rockwork. The Dwarf Juniper (var. alpina nana) is a sort that does not grow over a foot high, and spread- ing. The American Pyramidal Juniper (var. aJpina pyra- midalis) is a distinct form of the common species of up- right habit. Polish Juniper (var. Cracovica), a robust, erect grower, with yellowish-green foliage. The Irish Juniper (var. Hihernica), a compact, free-growing variety of great popularity; the growth is upright and formal, producing a fine columnar effect, E. Robust Irish Juniper (var. Hihernica robusia) is more vigorous, but less dense than the Irish, Swedish Juniper (var. Suecica), of pyra- midial form Avith yellowish-green foliage. The Savix Juniper (/. Sahina) is another well-known low-growing species, with wide-spreading, sombre, thick- ly clothed branches; thrives in the poorest soil; admirable for hillsides and rockwork, and also bears the shears well, //. The Tamarisk-leaved Savin (var. tamanscifolia) is a distinct and handsome variety of the last, H. The Cypress-leaved Savin (var. cupressifolia) is another va- riety with light-green, and sometimes silvery-glaucous leaves. The Variegated-leaved Savin {vsiv.variegafa) shows some distinct white and pale-yellow markings on the leaves ; less vigorous than the species. Var, alpina is a low trailer in habit and quite distinct. The Red Cedar {J. Virginiana), with its varieties, are Junipers of great hardiness and indispensable in all good collections of considerable extent; the parent form is a well-known native, with bright-green, compact foli- age, C-D. Silvery, or Gray-leaved Red Cedar (var. glauca), is a handsome, free-growing variety, with silvery foliage, that contrasts well with other evergreens, B. Weeping Red Cedar (var. pendula) is a variety with a weeping tendency; the young shoots being long and slender, and reaching to the ground. There are two Variegated Red 112 ORNAMEKTAL GARDENING. Cedars, the one with white spots and stripes on the foli- age (var. variegafa a'ha); the otlier one with goklen marblings (var. variegafa aurea), both of fair merit, if not especially valuable. The Light-green Red Cedar (var. Scliottii), and also Bedford's Red Cedar (var. Bed- fordiana, syn. Barbadensis), are varieties with lighter colored foliage than tlie species. One of the finest Junipers is the Chinese (/. Chinetisis), belonging to the Cypress-like section. The foliage is of a handsome dark-green, presenting a peculiar, lively aj)- pearance, and the tree has an erect habit. The sexes are in separate trees, tliere being a sterile and a fertile form, this last has a lighter foliage, and is somewhat pendant, C. Reeves' Chinese Juniper (var. Reevesiana) is of re- markal)le hardiness, and has a fine habit, with somewhat drooping and spreading branshes. Lee's Chinese Juniper (var. Leeana) is a variety with long, bright-green leaves, and vigorous and dense habit. The Japanese Juniper {J. Chinensis, var. Japonica, J. Japonica of some authors), is a pleasing shrub of very small size, and suitable for rockwork ; it has bright, lively-green foliage ; it is not perfectly hardy at the North, H. There are also several variegated- leaved varieties of this. Tiiere are still several other desirable Junipers which might be named here, such as the Prostrate Juniper {J. prostrafa), of trailing habit, with sliining, dark-green foliage; hardy, and well adapted for rockwork and edg- ings. The Scaled Juniper (J. sqnamata), also of low- spreading habit. Avith foliage of a delicate, glaucous hue. Globular Juni})er {J. hemisphmrica), very dwarf and dense, with whitish foliage. Lovely Juniper {J. occi- dentalis, var. venusta), a handsome, hardy variety of erect-waving, torch-like form, and fine glaucous, bluish foliage. Daurian Juniper {J. Daurica), a low tree, with the leaves whitish on their upper surface, EVERGREEN TREES AND SHRUBS. 113 THE TORREYA. ToiTCya. C. A genus of evergreens, near relatives of the Yew, and natives of our Southern States, California, and Asia. They are not considered hardy generally in the North, but are desirable for garden planting throughout the South. Among tlie species are the California Nutmeg Tree {T. Calif u mica), with long, pale-green leaves. Nut- bearing Torreya {T. uHcifera) from Japan. Yew-leaved Torreya {T. taxifolia), a Florida species, with shiny green leaves, which give off a disagreeable odor if bruised. This is hardy in New York City. THE HOLLY. IleX. C. The American Holly (/. opaca) is the only true Holly that is reliable in the United States. It luis large, tough, smooth leaves, with scattered spiny teeth along the wavy margin, and ornamental red berries in winter. Should be severely pruned when transplanted. THE UMBRELLA PINE. Sciadojntys. S. verficilla/a, the only species, is a remarkable tree from Japan, Avith curious, shining, dark-green foliage, arranged in whorls of umbrella-like tufts. It is hardy in New England. THE LAUREL. Kail Ilia. E. H. Beautiful native shrnbs, with shining foliage and large clusters of flowers. Will thrive in a moist, light soil, that is well supplied with vegetable matter, like leaf- mould, or muck, and in partial shade. The Mountain, or Broad-leaved Laurel {K. lati- folia), has medium-sized, shining green leaves, and white and rose-colored flowers, E. G. The Narrow-leaved, or Sheep Laurel {K. angus- tifolia), of much smaller size than the last named, has small, light-green leaves and crimson flowers, H. 114 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. THE YEW. Taxns. C. H. A genus of evergreens, with handsome, generally dark- green foliage, that arc very popular in England, but are not so reliable in our climate, owing to the injury the foliage is apt to receive from the sun in winter. Partic- ularly fine for cemetery planting. The English Yew {T. haccata) is a handsome bush, densely branched and can be trimmed to any shape, C. The American Yew or Ground Hemlock (var. Canadensis) is brought under the foregoing species by Prof. Gray; per- fectly hardy, of dwarf, spreading habit, and growing readily in the shade. There is also a variegated-leaved form of this, with the young shoots marked with yellow. Of other fine varieties may be named Dovaston's or Weeping Yew (var. Dovnstoni), with pendulous, strag- gling branches, and long dark leaves ; one of the hard- iest. Beautiful Y^ew (var. elegantissiitia), of erect, rai)id growth, and foliage marked with yellow. Erect Yew (var. erecta), one of the hardiest and finest, with slender branches and small, shining, dark leaves. Fox's Dwarf Yew (var. nana), a diminutive form, with handsome, very dark leaves. If. The Golden Yew (var. aurea), with gold-colored foliage ; the Irish Yew (var. fastigi- ata), an upright grower, with very dark foliage, and of which there are also several sub-varieties. The Japanese Yew ( T. adpressa) is one of the hard- iest, most beautiful, and least liable to receive injury from the sun in winter of the entire genus ; of low, spreading form, with short dark-green leaves, H. Upright Japan Yew (var. stricta) is a variety of the above, of erect habit, but less hardy. The Abrupt-pointed Y"ew {T. cuspidata) is a distinct and handsome species from Japan, with large, glossy, dark-green leaves, and com- pact habit, one of the hardiest. The Japan Yew or Podocarpus {Podocarpus Japon- EVERGREEN TREES AND SHRUBS. 115 ica) is of a distinct genus, but somewhat resembles the Irish Yew. Tender in the North, C THE THUioPSis. Thuiopsis. Evergreens from Japan, sometimes called Japanese Arbor Vitae, too tender to be considered reliable with us, excepting in central and southern portions of our coun- try, and here they should have the benelit of some shade. Of different kinds there is the Hatchet-leaved Thuiop- sis (T. dol'ibrafa), of conical form, with slightly pendu- lous branches, and flat leaves. Standish's Thuiopsis ( T. Standishii) is somewhat like the last, but said to be hard- ier ; and a Variegated-leaved Thuiopsis {T. dolahrata varicgata), has bright-green foliage, silvery beneath. THE CEPHALOTAXUS. CcplialotaXUS. C. The Plum-fruited Cephalotaxus (var. C. drupacea) is a compact growing, rather tender, ornamental ever- green, with short leaves. Fortune's Cephalotaxus {C. Forttoiei) is a species of which there are two forms, male and female trees ; the former Avith long leaves, and of a spreading habit of growth ; the latter with smallish, dark-green leaves, and slender drooping branches. THE rhododendron. Eliododendrou. E. H. Wherever they will do well, it is hard to find any other shrubby plants that will give equal satisfaction with the Eliododcndrons, especially the improved hybrid sorts. They are of a handsome form, with glossy, evergreen leaves, and are covered in June with immense clusters of the most attractively colored and handsomely formed flowers. The plants will not thrive in heavy clay, and a limey soil seems to be about as bad for them, while any light loam that is well supplieil with decayed leaf-mould or other similar vegetable matter, will suit them well. They like coolness and moisture at the roots in summer. 116 OKNAMENTAL GARDENING. wliich may be secured by muleliing tliem before hot weather comes on. A temperature fifteen degrees below zero, if not too long continued, or too frequent, does not hurt them, provided they have shelter from wind and sun, and they may be planted near buildings or trees to receive this. For some further directions in preparation of the soil and their management, see Divisions IV and V. The American Rhododendron {R. maximum), also called the Great Laurel, is a native species, and found growing wild from Maine to Ohio, and southward, as a straggling bush, with thick, smo(jth leaves, and small, green-spotted, rose-colored or white ilowers. Pontic Rhododendron {R. Po/iticum) is an Europe- an species, almost valueless in America, from the liabil- ity of the flower buds to be winter killed. The Catawba Rhododendron (R. Catmvhiensis), the Rose Bay of the Soutljern States, is found growing on the mountains of Virginia and southward. From this species have sprung nearly all the fine hardy hybrids of the gardens. There are many named varieties of these, the colors of which are exceedingly handsome, and vary- ing through pure-white, light-pink, cherry-red, rose, lilac, purple, and brilliant-scarlet, and crimson. There are some other distinct species also, wiiich are of little con- sequence, hence I omit them. THE BOX. Buxus. E. H. A genus of beautiful evergreens, suitable for lawn dec- oration, and the dwarf varieties for edgings to walks, etc. The trees may be grown to any desirable shape by shearing. Although hardy, they sometimes suffer from sun-scald in winter, and from harsh sweeping winds, but as they do not object to partial shade, by planting them where they will receive this, the first named difficulty is avoided, and shelter from winds is the remedy for the other. EVEKGKEEN TREES AND SHKUBS. 117 The Common Teee Box {B. sempervirens) is the well known European species, witli beautiful glossy foliage, E. I'he following are some of the varieties of this : Dwarf Box (var. suffruticosa), is the sort usually em- ployed for edgings ; forms a pretty bush when planted alone. Hands worth's Box (var. Handsivorthii) is a vigor- ous, u])right grower of great hardiness. Jackson's Weep- ing Box (var. Jarl'sonii) has pendulous branches, which habit gives the tree a fine appearance. The Broad- leaved Box (var. latifoUa), and the Myrtle-leaved Box (var. my Hi folia), are both fine sorts. There are a num- ber of varieties, the leaves of whicli are marked and splaslied with gold and silver colors, sucli as the Gold- striped Box, Silver-striped Box, Elegantly-variegated Box, and others. THE MAHOKIAS. Berheris. H. The evergreen species of Barberry were formerly placed in the genus Mahouia, but they are now arranged as a section of Berheris. It is convenient to retain Ma- honia as a popular or garden name. The Holly-leaved Mahunia (B. Aqaifoliuin) is one of tlie hardiest and finest low-growing evergreens Ave have. It is liable to receive spots from the sun in winter, on which account it should be protected somewhat, a thing easily done with evergreen boughs or otherwise, as the plant is of low growth ; or it may be planted in the shade. It has handsome, thick, glossy leaves, with l)rickly and scalloped edges, which somewhat resemble those of the Holly ; clusters of yellow flowers in the spring. There are several other rather unimportant species. 118 OKKAMENTAL GARDENING. CHAPTER VIII. CLIMBERS AND TRAILERS. As found growing wild, the hard-wooded climbers and trailers afford some of the most delightful bits of natural scenery to be met with. Many of these serve valuable purposes for embellishments in ornamental gardening, as shown in Part III. Some kinds, and conspicuously the Clematis, have been improved much by cultivation since first brought into the gardens. THE VIEGINIA CREEPER, Ampelopsis. A genus of climbers of the first rank for general cul- ture. The Virginia Creeper {A. quinquefolia), also called " American Ivy," and incorrectly, "Woodbine," is the common native species. It is a rapid grower, pro- ducing dense masses of splendid, digitate foliage, and at- taching itself firmly to wood, stone, or the trunks of trees. There is, however, a form not possessing this last named quality, which should be avoided. The foliage of this species turns to a beautiful crimson in autumn. Yeitch's Ampelopsis {A. tricuspidata, syn. A. Veitchii), from Japan, possesses great merit as a hardy climber, and particularly for covering brick and stone walls. The leaves are smaller than the common kind, lobed instead of divided, and of a clear green, changing to crimson-scarlet in the fall. They possess the pleasing peculiarity of regularly overlapping one another, liter- ally forming an even sheet of gi'een, if growing on any smooth surface like a building. Perfectly hardy if i)ro- tected for one or two winters until well established. Among other ornamental sj)ecies may be named the Pepper Vine (^4. hipinnata), of vigorous, picturesque growth, with compound, pinnate leaves. Eoyle's Ampe- lopsis [A. Roylii), of rapid growth, with large foliage, CLIMBERS AND TRAILERS. 119 that colors up richly iu the autumn. A. indivisa has leaves less deejjly cut than the others. THE WISTARIA. Wistaria. Usually, for several years after planting, the Wistarias make but little growth, but after being once well estab- lished, they grow rapidly and to a gi'eat length. Besides their free growing qualities, they are prized for their picturesque appearance in general, and the profusion of showy flowers they bear. The Chinese Wistaria {W. Sinensis) is one of the best knoAvn and most vigorous species, attaining to an immense size with age; long pendulous clusters of pale lilac flowers in the spring, and sometimes again in the fall. There are several varieties of this species, namely the Chinese White Wistaria (var. alba), with charming white flowers. Double Purple Wistaria (var. flore plenn), said to produce long racemes of double flowers, but it is very slow to come into bloom. There are a number of Japanese species and varieties {W. bracJiybotrys), with fragrant, light, rosy-purple flowers; var. r^ihra, a variety of the last named, with darker red flowers. W. Japonira alba nana, of dwarflsh growth with white flowers; IF. muUijuga and mulri- jnga alba), are of another species, with very large racemes of flowers, in the first named of purple color, in the last white. The American, or Shrubby Wistaria (W. fn(- tescens), is a native, less attractive and strons: ffrowinir than tlie Chinese; pale-blue flowers in short clusters. Tiie White American Wistaria (var. aiha) is a white-flowered variety of the species. Var. majnifica is said to have the flowers in dense drooping racemes. THE honeysuckle OR WOODBINE. Luniceva. A rather extensive genus, tiie more ornameiital si)ecies and varieties of which are much valued for their fine 120 OHXAMENTAL GARDENING. flowers. Tlieir nature is to twine about any support, hence they are more useful for adorning pillars, veran- da posts, etc., than for covering walls. Excellent about rock work. By stopping the leading shoots at four to six feet, most of the kinds form handsome standards if sup- ported by a stake. Among native species and their varieties are the fol- lowing : Scarlet Trumpet Honeysuckle [L. sempervirens), a strong grower, with handsome, scarlet flowers, about two inches long, produced all summer ; dark-green leaves. Brown's Scarlet Trumpet Honeysuckle (var. Brownii), a variety of the last with large dark-scarlet flowers. Small Eed Honeysuckle (var. minus), a variety with small flowers, slightly darker than in the species. Yellow Trumpet Honeysuckle {L. flava), very fragrant, bright-yellow and orange flowers. What is known in the nurseries as the Canadian Honeysuckle (var. Cana'lensis) , probably a variety of this, is a dis- tinct and striking form, of robust growth, with large, bluish-green leaves, united in pairs at the base around the stem ; yellow flowers in June ; readily grown as a standard. The Asiatic species are a class of great value, Hall's Japan Honeysuckle {L. Halleana), a species with fine, nearly evergreen leaves.and very sweet flowers, at first pnre white, and then changing to yellow, and produced all summer, a superb sort. Japan-Evergreen Honeysuckle {L. brachiipoda), of remarkably vigorous growth, with white and yellow fragrant flowers. Golden-Veined Honeysuckle (var. reiicnlat(i), a variety of the last, the small, rounded leaves of whi<']i are elegantly netted and veined with yellow. Among other meritorious kinds may be named The Common Woodbine (L. Periclymennm), a rapid CLIMBERS AKD TRAILERS. 121 grower, with showy flowers, red oiitside, wliite within. Monthly Dutch Honeysuckle (var. Belgica), a superior variety, blooming throughout the season, with red and yellow, fragrant flowers. ]\rAXGEViLLE's HONEYSUCKLE {L. CaprifoUum, var. pallida), an evergreen species, with yellowish-white, fragrant flowers. Standish's Honeysuckle [L. Stmi' dishii), light pink and yellow flowers. THE CLEMATIS. Clematis. \ The species of Clematis are most attractive and valuable climbers, being easily grown, of graceful habits, and possessing magnificent flowering qualities. They will thrive in any good soil which is well enriched, and by protecting the roots by a slight covering over them each fall, they stand the severest winters safely. Besides their great value for decorating verandas and arbors, they are admirably suited for growing in ])ots or tubs, training the vines on a trellis, or Ixdloon frame, for adorn- ing verandas, roof gardens, conservatories, etc. The species are divisible into two classes, namely : those that flower on the last year's growth in the early part of the season, and those flowering on the present season's growth in summer and autumn, either con- tinuously or in successive crops. There are many vari- eties of both these classes described in the catalogues, ranging in color from wiiite through lavender, rediisli- purple, violet, mauve, etc., to the most intense violet- blue, and blackish mulberry. Jackman's C'LEMATIS {C. Jad-nianii) is one of the best sorts, and well known, being of free growth, and a most abundant bloomer, the flowers being of a rich, violet-blue color. The Scarlet Clematis {C. coccinea) is a quite dis- tinct species, with scarlet flowers, having yellow centers. The Common AVild Clematis {(I Virginiana) \s o, 6 132 OKITAMENTAL GARDENING. species of free growth, with smooth leaves and white flowers in profusion. TRUMPET FLOWERS. TcCOma. American Trumpet Vine {T. radicans) is a vigorous, hardy climber, with large, trumpet-shaped, scarlet flow- ers in August, excellent to cover stumps and stones, or to train as a standard. Dark-red or Purple Trumpet Flower (var. astrosanguinea) , a variety with purplish- <3rimson flowers, and more shrub-like in habit than the last. Great Trumpet Flower {T. grandiflora) has large, showy, pale-orange flowers. OTHER ORNAMENTAL CLIMBERS. The Dutchman's Pipe {Aristolochia Sipho), a valuable native climber of rapid growth, with immense leaves ten to twelve inches across, and pipe-shaped, yellowish-brown flowers. There are several other species, but not equal to the one named. The Climbing Bitter-Sweet or Staff-Tree ( Celastrus scandens), a native, and one of the most elegant climbers or twiners, and worthy of being generally used ; exceed- ingly fine for verandas ; rich, glossy leaves, and beauti- ful, pendant branches, with clusters of orange capsules. The Bitter-Sweet may be grown in the form of a shrub, by cutting back to three or four feet. There are also sev- eral Japanese species. The ATcehia quinata, a neat and most attractive climb- er from Japan, with small leaves and fragrant purple flowers in early summer, follow^ed by ornamental fruit. The Actinidia polggama, another climber from Japan, is of vigorous and elegant habit, and has white and purple flowers. A Vine with variegated leaves ( Vifis heterophylla, Cissus variegata of some catalogues), is a very pleasing CLIMBERS AND TRAlLBRS. 123 plant. Of rapid, slender growth, with small leaves, re- aembling those of the grape vine, but beautifully mar- bled, and variegated with white, pink and green. The Carolina Cocculus {C. Carolinus), a native vine, with small, heart-shaped leaves, greenish flowers in summer, and small, red fruit, the size of a pea. The Canadian Moonsebd {Menispermum Canadense), a pretty, slender-branched, twining plant, with small, yellow flowers and black fruit, resembling small frost grapes. The Grape ( Vitis). There are situations, and especially about the Wild Garden, where the native species of grajjes are most attractive climbers. They are neat, free grow- ers, with foliage well adapted to making shade for arbors, for overhanging ledges, bridges, etc.; some have fragrant flowers. Among tlie best for ornament, may be named the Summer Grape ( V. cestivalis) ; the Frost Grape ( V. cordifolia), with very sweet flowers, and the species V. indivisa, and V. viilpina for the more southern sections of our country. The V/hite Jessamine {Jasminum officinale) is an elegant climber, that has long been in cultivation, but is too tender for the North, unless well protected in winter. There are several other species and varieties belonging to the genus. The Grecian Silk Vine {Pen'ploca Grceca), a rapid growing climber of no high order of beauty, with i)ointed leaves, and purplish-brown flowers. The European Ivy {Hedera). Owing to our l)right sun- shiny winters, in which it suffers if the sun comes to it, the Ivy can never become popular in this country to the extent it has in Europe. The hardiest kinds, however, do well, when planted against tlie north side of buildings or walls. They may also be thickly planted in beds to produce a mass of foliage over the bed, or be used as 1^4 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. edgings, as when grown thus they can be easily protected." The Irish Ivy {H. HeMx, var. Hibernica), is about the best for general planting. There are a number of inter- esting varieties with variegated and striking forms of foliage, all more or less useful. CHAPTER IX. HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. Let me introduce the ])lants that come under this head as the Hardy Wild Plants of the temperate regions of the earth, and then it may be known at once what they are. The lists embrace such as are i)erennial, having roots that live from year to year, producing new growths above ground annually, but which die down as often, either soon after flowering, or in the fall. Many of the kinds have been much improved in the gardens, afford- ing numerous varieties that greatly exceed the parents in value. It is a pleasure to note the increasing attention this class of plants is now attracting in ornamental garden- ing in this country and Europe. As a rule they are easily grown, very ornamental and inexpensive, for, un- like most other kinds of flowers, when • once they are planted, they remain. Pains have been taken in this chapter, to classify these plants somewhat, according to their ada})tability and value. To save space, I have generally, in the descrip- tions, merely separated the distinguishing qualities of the plants by the semicolon, giving color of flowers first, sea- son of flowering next, with the hight in inches or feet last. The word " protect," indicates that the sort which it follows, must be protected in the Northern States in winter. HARD¥ HERBACEOrS PLANTS. 125 CLASS I. — HARDY PLANTS, MOSTLY IMPROVED SORTS, OF THE HIGHEST ATTRACTIVENESS. Adonis, >>])r'mg {Adonis vertialis). — Yellow; spring; 8 to 12 inches. Anemone or Wind-Flower (Anemone). — Japan Ane- mone (.4. Japonica). — Blnish-rose ; autumn ; 2'/„ feet. White Japan Anemone (var. alba). — White, golden center ; autumn ; 2y„ feet. Apennine Anemone {A. apennina). — Bright blue; early spring ; G inches. Double White Wind-Flower {A. nemorosa fl. pL). — Early spring ; 6 inches. Anthericum (A nthericum). — Branching Anthericum (^4. ramosum). — White ; spring ; 18 inches. St. Bruno's Lily (^4. liliastrum). — White; June ; 18 inches. Columbine [Aquilegia). — Rocky Mountain Columbine {A. cmrulea). — White and ca^rulean blue ; sjiring ; 2 to 3 feet. Golden-spurred Columbine {A. chrysantka). — Yel- low ; summer ; 2 to 3 feet. Siberian Columbine [A. glandulosa). — Blue and white ; summer ; 2 feet. Skinner's Columbine {A. Shinneri). — Distinct, red and yellow. Striped Columbine {A. carf/opJif/Iloides). — Striped. Common Columbine (^4. vulgaris). — There are many varieties. Woodruff {Asperula odorata). — Pure white ; spring ; 6 inches. Astilbe, Japan [Astilhe Japonica). — White ; cut- leaves ; May ; 2 feet. Often called Spirma Japonica. Daisy (Bellis jjerennis). — White, pink, etc.; spring ; 3 inches ; protect. 133 OENAMENTAL GAKDENING. Bell-Flower, Harel>ell {Camjmmila). — The following are the names of a few species among many : Peach-leaved Campanula {G. 2)ersicce folia). — Blue; June ; 2 to 3 feet. There is a variety with white flowers. Var. coroaata, has double flowers, both white and blue. Nettle-leaved Campanula {C. Trachelium). — Blue; with a white variety ; 3 feet. Betony-leaved Campanula (C. sannatica). — Pale bine ; July ; 3 feet. The catalogues give other species and varieties of Campanula. The normal color is blue^ but nearly all have varieties with white flowers. Large Bell-flower {Plafjicodon rjrandiflorimi. Syn. Campanula grajuUjiora, Walilenbergia grandiflora). — Very large blue flowers ; summer ; 1 to 3 feet. There is a white semi-double variety. Meadow Saffron [Colchicum). — C. aiitumnale. Light- purplish, mottled ; autumn ; 4 inches. There are varie- ties with Avhite and with rose-colored flowers. C. varie- gatum, with rose and purplish-violet flowers, is probably a variety also. Autumn ; 4 inches. Lily of the Valley {Convallaria majalis). — White ; fragrant ; May ; 8 inches. Hollyhock {Althma rosea). — Many colors, single and double ; summer ; 4 to 6 feet. Crocus (CVocw.s).— Many colors; early spring; 4 inches. Larkspur {Delphinium) . — The following are excellent kinds : D. formosum. — Rich, dark blue, tinged purjjle ; summer ; 3 to 3 feet. D. cmlestinum. — Light blue, double; June, Sept.; 3 to 4 feet. HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 137 D. pyramidalis. — Blue ; fine grower ; June ; 4 to 5 feet. D. azureum. — Light blue ; single ; July ; 2 to 3 feet. D. gra)idiflorum. — Of different colors. Pink {Diaiifhus). — Garden Pink [D. jjUimariuii). — Pink, with a white variety ; 12 to 15 inches. Maiden Pink {D. deltoides). — Rose and white ; 6 to 9 inches. Amoor Pink {D. dentosus).—h\\'AC ; dwarf inhabit. Sweet William {D. larhatus). — Many colors and forms. D. Querterli. — Deep crimson ; clove fragrance ; spring ; 1 foot. Bleeding Heart {Dicentra spectabilis). — Rosy crimson; spring ; 2 to 4 feet. Plumy Bleeding Heart {D. eximia). — Rose ; sum- mer ; 9 to 18 inches. Fraxinella {Dictammis Fraxinella). — Both pink and white ; Juno ; 18 inches. Foxglove {Digitalis). — White, purple, etc.; summer; 2 to 3 feet. Adder's Tongue, Dog's Tooth Violet {Erythronium). — Yellow Adder's Tongue {E. Americanum). — Yellow; May ; 6 to 9 inches. White Dog's Tooth Violet {E. alhidum).—^\\x\&\\- white ; May. European Dog's Tooth Violet {E. Dens-cam's). — Crown Imperial {Fritillaria imperialis). — Different colors ; spring ; 3 feet. Plantain Lily {Funhia) : As the species of FunJcia and of Hemerocallis are both known as Day Lilies, and much confusion results, it has been proposed in England, to call the FunhiaH Plantain -lilies, an appropriate name, having reference to their plantain-like leaves. 128 0:iNAMENTAL GARDENIXG. White Plantain Lily {F. alba). — White ; summer ; 15 inches. Blue Plantain Lily {F. ccerulea). — Light blue; June and July ; 1 foot. Japan Plantain Lily {F. Japonica). — Lavender; narrow leaves ; 2 feet. Siebold's Plantain Lily {F. Sieholdii). — Pale pink ; 12 to 18 inches. Day Lily {Hemerocallis) : Yellow Day Lily {H. flava). — June ; 2 to 4 feet. Copper-colored Day Lily {H. fiilva). — Yellowish copper-color ; July. Double Day Lily, of several species. Snowdrop {GaUmthus). — Common Snowdrop {G. nivalis). — White ; early spring ; 4 inches ; also a double variety. Canada Tick-Trefoil {Desmodium Canadense). — Blu- ish-purple ; all summer ; 1 to 2 feet. Rocket Flower (Hesjyeris). — Dame's Violet {H. ma- tronalis). — Purple ; June ; 1 to 2 feet ; also white and double white varieties. Hyacinth {Hyacmtlms). — Common Hyacinth {H. orl- entalis). — Single and double in many colors ; May. Grape Hyacinth {Muscari). — Common Grape Hya- cinth {31. hotryoides). — Deep sky-blue ; spring ; 9 inches ; also a pure white variety. Feathery Hyacinth {M. comosiim). — Blue ; feathery; 12 to 18 inches. Musk Hyacinth [M. moscliatum). — Purislish green. Candy-tuft, Perennial {Iberu) : Evergreen Candy-tuft (/. semper virens). — White ; May. Coris-leaved Candy-tuft (/. corrmfolia). — White ; dwarf ; early summer ; 6 to 9 inches. Gibraltar Cancly-tuft (/. G ibr altar ica). — White and purplish ; June ; 1 foot. HAEDY HEKBACEOUS PLANTS. 129 Iris, Flenr de Lis, Flag {Iris). — Of the numerous species and hybrids, the following are among the best : Florentine Iris (/. Florentina). — White, blue and yellow ; early summer ; IS inches. German Iris (/. Gernianica). — The old " Blue Flag," of which there are many fine named varieties, Jaj^an or Clematis-flowered Iris (/. ImvUjata, Syn. /. Kwmjjferi). — Flowers distinct in form, and pre- senting a wonderful variety of colors and shades in the named sorts ; 3 to 4 feet. Dwarf Iris {I. pumila). — Deep violet, yellow, etc.; spring ; 3 to 6 inches. Iberian Iris (/. 7J mm).— Purple and black ; spring. Peacock Iris (/. Pavonia). — Pure white and deep blue. Netted Iris {I. reticulata). — Blue, netted yellow ; spring ; 6 inches. English Iris (7, xiphioidcs). — White, blue, etc; summer. Spanish Iris (/, Xipliium). — Resembles the last; many colors. Jonquil {Narcissus Jonquilla). — Double and single ; yellow ; spring. Pea, Perennial {Latliyrus latifolins). — Rose and white sorts ; summer ; 4 to 8 feet. Everblooming Pea {L. grandijlorus). — Purple ; sum- mer ; 3 to 4 feet, Blazing-Star {Liatris). — Spiked Blazing-Star {L. sjn- cata). — Purple ; summer ; 2 to 4 feet. Elegant Blazing-Star {L. elegans). — Bluish purple ; summer ; 1 foot. Dwarf Blazing-Star {L. pumila). — Handsome pur- ple ; July ; 1 foot. Loose-strife {Lythriim). — Spiked Loose-strife {L. Sali- caria). — Rosy-scarlet; summer; 3 feet ; there is also a variety with rosy-purple flowers. 130 OEKAMENTAL GAKDENING. Snowflake {Lencojnm). — Spring Snowflake [L. ver- num). — ^Wliite ; very early spring ; 9 inches. Summer Snowflake {L. mstivum). — White ; June ; ly, feet. Autumn Snowflake {L. autumnalU) . — White or pale rose ; 6 inches. Lilies {LiUum). — The following are a few of the best from among many species : Golden-Banded Lily {L. anratiim). — AVhite, maroon and yellow ; 2 to 5 feet. White Lily {L. candidum). — Pure white ; summer ; 3 to 4 feet. Buff Lily {L. exceUum). — Nankeen, shaded red ; 4 to 6 feet. Long - flowered Lily [L. lomjif.orum). — White ; 12 to 20 inches ; protect. Turban Lily {L. Pomjjonium). — Red, dotted black ; summer ; 1 to 2 feet ; and a variety with yellow flowers, dotted black. Rose-colored Japan Lily {L. speciosum roseujn). — Rose ; spotted ; summer ; 1 to 2 feet. Slender-leaved Lily {L. tenuifolium). — Small ; scar- let ; Jnne ; about 1 foot ; protect. Turk's Cap Lily {L. superhum). — Bright orange ; summer ; 4 to 7 feet. Umbelled Lily {L. wnbdlatum). — Bright red; July; I'A to 27, feet. Splendid Tiger Lily {L. tigrinum sj^lendens). — Orange-scarlet ; spotted. Thunberg's Lily {L. Thunhergianum). — Blood red ; 1 to 2 feet. Kramer's Lily {L. Krameri). — Suffused delicate pink ; 2 feet. Wild Yellow Lily {L. Canadense). — Yellow; sum- mer ; 2 to 5 feet. Southern Red Lily {L. CaUshcei). — Scarlet ; 1 to 2 feet ; protect. HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 131 Lychnis {Lychnis). — Scarlet Lychnis {L. Chalcedouica). — Double and single ; various colors ; summer ; 3 to 3 feet. Double German Catchfly [L. Viscaria, fl. 2>l-)- — Bright red ; 12 to 18 inches. Flower of Jove {L. Fos-Jovis). — Large, deep red. Ragged Robin {L. Fos-cuculi). — Fine, deep pink ; summer ; 1 foot ; also a white variety. Haage's Lychnis {L. Haageana). — Red, of various shades ; large. Forget-me-not {Myosotis dissitijlora). — Sky-blue ; May ; 6 to 13 inches. Daffodil {Xarcissus). — This well known genus of hardy bulbs now embraces many fine sorts. One establishment at Passaic, N. J., alone offering in their catalogue almost two hundred distinct species and varie- ties ; mostly yellow, orange, scarlet, and white colors ; double and single ; spring. Star of Bethlehem {Ornitliogalum iimhellatum). — Satiny-white ; spring ; 6 to 9 inches. Pyramidal Star of Bethlehem [0. pyramidale) . — White; summer ; 1 to 3 feet. Bitter Vetch, Spring {Orohus vernns). — Dark purple ; spring ; 1 foot. Paeouy (Pceonia). — Of this grand genus there are a number of species, and a great many improved named varieties. Tree Paeony (P. Moutan). — Superb flow^ers in many varieties ; 5 to 8 feet. Chinese Double Blush Tree Paeony. — Rose and pur- ple. Common Garden Pa3ony (P. officinalis). — Many va- rieties ; mostly large and double ; June ; 2 to 4 feet, 132 ORNAMENTAL UAlIDENINCx. Fennol-leaved Pa^ony (P. tninifoJia). — Double and single ; dark crimson ; May ; V/„ to 2 feet. Poppy, Perennial {Pcipavor). — Golden Poppy [P. cro- ceum). — Orange yellow ; early ; 8 to 15 inches. Oriental Poppy {P. orientale). — Bright scarlet ; June ; 18 inches. Pentstemon (Pentstemon). — There are a number of spe- cies and varieties, with scarlet, purjile, white, and other colored flowers. Phlox, Perennial (PJilox). — Hybrid Garden Phlox. — These have mostly originated from P. 2)aniculaia and P. maculata, and are represented by a long list of excellent named sorts ; summer ; 2 to 4 feet. Spreading Phlox {P. divaricata). — Lilac-blue ; 9 to 18 inches. Creeping Phlox {P. reptans). — Eosy-purple ; May and June ; 4 to 8 inches. Moss Pink (P. snbnlafa). — Kose, white, and purple varieties ; spring ; 4 inches. Greek Valerian [Polemonium cmruleiim). — Pale l)liie ; 18 inches ; and a form with variegated leaves. Jacob's Ladder (P. reptans). — Bright blue ; spreading; 10 to 12 inches. Primrose {Primula). — Common Primrose (P. vnhia- ris). — Many colors ; protect. Polyanthus Primrose. — Yellow, sulphur brown, etc. ; spring ; 4 to C inches. Lungwort {Pulmo7iaria). — Narrow-leaved. — (P. «w- gustifolia). — Bright blue; April; 1 foot. Spotted-leaved Lungwort {P. maculata). — Showy foliage; blue; spring; 1 foot. Feverfew, Hardy {Pyrefhrum). — Scarlet, crimson, rose, and other colored varieties ; spring ; 15 inches. Sage, Southern {Salvia azitrea). — Deep blue ; 2 to 3 feet ; protect ; some other species are desirable. HARDY HERBACEOUS PLAXTS. 133 Wood-Hyacinth, Squill (Scilla). — A charming genus of plants, embracing numerous species and varieties, showing man}' shades of blue flowers, some flowering early, and others late. Sedum or Stone-crop. — See Eock Plants. Catchfly (Silene): Sea Catchfly (aS'. maritwia). — AYhite; June; 2 to 4 inches. Pennsylvania Catchfly {S. Pennsylvaiiica). — Showy, pink; June; 4 to G inches. Antumn Catchfly {S. Schafta). — Puri)lish-rose; June; G inches. Oriental Catchfly (>S'. oriodalis). — Deep rose ; showy: 1 to 2 feet. Pink Root {SjnffeUa Marilandica). — Scarlet; June; G to 18 inches; protect. Meadow-Sweet {Sjnra'u): Goat's Beard [S. Anoicus). —White; 4 feet. Dropwort {S. fiUjiinuhila). — AMiite; fern-like foliage; June; 1 to 2 feet. Purity (*S'. ITlmaria, fl. 2)1.). — "Wliite ; handsome; June; 2 feet ; there is also a variety of this with golden variegated foliage. Queen of the Prairie {S. venu^ta). — Soft rose; sum- mer; 2 to 4 feet. Stokesia, Blue {Stol-esla c\janc(i). — Blue ; August and later; 2 feet. Spiderwort {TradcM'antia). — Blue Spiderwort {7\ Yir- ginica). — Fine blue ; of this species there are a number of varieties, including white; May; 1 to 2 feet. Flame-flower, or Red-hot Poker Plant {Tritavia Uvarid). — There are a nnmlier of varieties, scarlet, yel- low, etc.; September; 2 to 4 feet. Tulips {Tnh'pa). — The varieties are Aery numerous, of many colors and shades, single and double; April and Mav. 134 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. Speedwell {Veronica): V. amethystiria. — Ametliyst blue; summer; 12 to 18 inches. Gentian-leaved Speedwell ( V. geniitmoides). — Pale blue; 12 to 18 inches. Japanese Speedwell (F. longifolia). — Blue; sum- mer; 1 to 2 feet. Periwinkle {Vinca). — Lesser Periwinkle ( F. minor). — Blue and white varieties, also one with variegated leaves; summer; trailing; 1 to 2 feet. Greater Periwinkle ( F. major). — Blue ; summer ; 1 to 2 feet. Violet ( Viola) : Sweet Violet ( V. odorata). — Violet; early spring; 6 inches. White Violet ( V. hlanda). — Whitish. Birdfoot Violet ( F. jmlata). — Bluish-lilac; sandy soils. Horned Violet (F. corinita). — Blue; summer; 3 to 6 inches. Heart's-ease or Pansy ( Viola tricolor).— Many beautiful colors. CLASS II. — HARDY PLANTS, POSSESSING SHOWY POLIAGE AND FORMS, WHICH RENDER THEM PICTURESQUE IN APPEARANCE, AND WELL SUITED FOR GROUPS ON THE LAWN, OR FOR SUB-TROPICAL EFFECTS. Acanthus {Acanthus). — Broad-leaved Acanthus (.4. latifolms). — White ; thick leaves ; 2 to 4 feet ; protect. Soft Acanthus {A. mollis). — Eose; showy leaves; 3 feet; protect. Monkshood, Autumn {Aconiticm aidumnale). — Pale blue; 6 feet. Acortis graminetis, var. — 2 to G inches. Grass, Ribbon {Phalaris arundinacea, var.). — 3 to 5 feet. HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 135 Grass, Fescue {Festuca yJauca). — Blue-leaved ; low; lor edgiuc^s. Dactylis — Orchard Grass {D. glome rat a). — A varie- gated form Avitli striped foliage, of good habit. Grass, Pampas [GyneHum argentenm). — Grand in rich soil; 6 to 9 feet ; protect. Grass, Panic {Fa?iicum virgatum). — Stately; 4 to 6 feet. Bugle, Eed-leaved [Ajuga reptam). — Purple leaves; 6 inches. Alfredia, Nodding {Alfredia cerniia). — Yellow; cut leaves; 6 feet. Wormwood {Artemisia). — A. Stelleriana, silvery foli- age; 9 to 18 inches. A. vulgaris, delicately cut leaves^ S^feet. Reed (Arufido Donax). — A handsome gigantic grass, forming clumps; 8 to 12 feet. The Variegated Eeed is a variety of the above, with foliage striped with white. Bocconia {B. cordata). — Whitish leaves ; flowers in August; 6 to 8 feet. Bupthalmum {B. speciosum). — Large leaves; yellow flowers; summer; 2 feet. Thistle, Globe {Echinops Ritro), — Blue; showy leaves; summer; 2 to 3 feet. Lyme Grass {Elymiis arenaria). — Very narrow, gray grass; 2 feet. Erianthus Ravennm. — Valuable showy grass; 6 to 12 feet. Eringo (Eringium). — Amethystine Eringo (E. ame- tltystinum). — Blue; showy cut foliage; summer; 2 feet. Yucca-leaved Eringo {E. yucc(ef(jUum). — White ; yucca- like leaves. Eulalia, Variegated {Eulalia Japonica variegata).^ Striped grass; 1 to G feet; ])rotect. Zebra Eulalia {var. ^ebrina). — Leaves striped crosswise; protect. 136 OKKAMENTAL GARDEKING. Plantain Lily, Variegated {Funkia undulata medio- picta). — Yellow-striped; 6 to 12 inches. 8nnllower, Graceful {Helianthus orgyalis). — Yellow ; handsome leaves; 8 to 10 feet. Day Lily, Variegated {Hemerocallis Kioanso var.). — White strijDed foliage. ¥ifr. 8.— YUCCA. Mint, Variegated {Mentha rotufidifolia var.). — Foliage blotched with yellow. Whorl Flower [Morma longifoh'a). — Rose; large leaves; 3 to 3 feet; protect. Ehiibarb, Indian {Rheum Emodi). — Large, showy leaves ; 2 to 3 feet. ^Palm-leaved Rhubarb {R. palma- turn). Deeply lobed, showy leaves; 6 to 8 feet. HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 137 Clary, Silver {Salvia argentea). — Large, white, woolly leaves; 2 to 3 feet. Sage, Variegated {Salvia officinalis tricolor). — Leaves blotched, white; 1 foot. Lavender Cotton {Santulina Chamwcyparissus), — Silvery leaves; 1 foot. Sedum. — There are several species with showy foliage, such as S. spectabile; S. cruciatumj the Live-for-ever, etc. See Rock Plants. Compass Plant {Siljjhium lacitiiatum). — Large pinnate leaves. — Cup Plant {S. perfoliatinii). — Yellow, of strong growth; 4 to 6 feet. Comfrey, Variegated {Symjjliytum officinale var.). — Gold variegated; 1 to 2 feet. Thyme, Lemon, Variegated-leaved {Thymus citriodo- rus). — Golden Variegated. — Common Variegated-leaved Thyme {T. Serpylhcm). — AVhite variegated. Yucca, or Adam's Needle {Yucca JUauieiifosa). — White; 3 to 4 feet. Narrow-leaved Yucca {V. an gusti folia). — White; 2 to 4 feet. Date Yucca (J", haccata). — Large throughout; 2 to 10 feet; protect. CLASS HI. — HARDY PLANTS, MOSTLY AS FOUND IN THEIR WILD STATE, AND COMPARATIVELY LACKING SOMEAVHAT IN ATTRACTIVENESS. The plants of this list, while not averaging as fine in general quality as those of preceding classes, would still, in most instances, be prized if given a place in the border, while all are desirable for naturalization in the Wild-garden. With many the flowers are haiulsome, but the foliage or the habit of the plants may be comjiara- tively coarse, while sometimes just the reverse is the 138 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. case. Then again a single plant of this class makes no show, but a mass of them is very attractive. Yarrow or Milfoil [Achillea). — Eose-flowered Yarrow {A. millefolium roseum). — Rose; summer; 18 inches ; there is also a deep-red variety of this. Double-flowering Sneezewort [A. Ptarmica, fl. 2)l-)- — White; 15 inches. Hoary-leaved Yarrow {A. filipendula). — Yellow; summer; 2 feet. May Apple, Oregon {Achlys triphylla). — White; fra- grant; 15 inches. Monkshood, or Wolfsbane {Aconitum). — These have poisonous roots. Japan Monkshood [A. Jajjonicuni). — Deep blue; August; 18 inches. Common Monkshood (A. Wapellus). — Blue ; sum- mer; 2 feet. Baneberry (Acfcea), White Baneberry [A. alba). — Summer; 2 to 3 feet. Cut-leaved Baneberry (A. spicata). — Neat and grace- ful; 18 inches. Red Baneberry, a variety of the above, with red berries; 2 feet. Bugle, Blue-flowered [Ajnga pyramidal is). — Blue ; spring; 3 inches. Star Grass, Yellow (Aletris aurea). — Yellow ; July ; 2 to 3 feet. Colic Root Star Grass (A faritiosa). — White; July; 2 to 3 feet. Allium, Golden [Allium Moly). — Golden; summer; 1 foot. There are various other species of Allium of dif- ferent colors, such as white, rose, lilac, etc. Alstraemeria [A. aiirantiaca). — Orange, lily-like flow- ers; summer and autumn; 2 to 4 feet. Amianthium [A. muscwtoxicum). — White; broad leaves ; summer. HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 139 Amsonia, Hairy {Ainsonia cmgustifolia). — Pale blue ; protect. Willow-leaved Amsoiiia {A, TiibermBmontana). — Pale blue; May; 3 feet. Anemone, or Windflower, Yellow {Anetnofie ranun- culoides). — Spring; 6 inches. Snowdrop Anemone (^. sylvestris) . — Pure white; spring ; 1 foot. Long-fruited Anemone (^4. cylindrica). — Greenish- white; spring. Pennsylvania Anemone {A. Pennsylvanica). — White and pink; 12 inches. American Pasque Flower [A. patens, var. Nuttali- ana). — WHiite or purplish ; spring. Mountain Everlasting [Anfennaria dioica). — White; summer; trails. Butterfly AVeed {Asdepias tuherosa). — Orange ; July ; 2 feet. Milkweed (.1. 'yp/-^iV/7/«/'a).— Greenish-white ; 1 to 2 feet. Asphodel {Asphodel us). — There are a number of spe- cies, mostly with yellow and white flowers; May to July; 2 to 4 feet. Aster {Aster). — Of many species, the following are noteworthy here : New England Aster {A. Novm-Anglice). — Violet purple; 4 feet. New Belgian Aster (.4. Novi-BeJgii). — Dark crim- son. Oblong-leaved Aster {A. oblongifolius). — Purple and yellow; 2 to 3 feet. Long-leaved Aster {A. longifolius). — Handsome form and foliage; 2 feet. False Indigo {Baptisia) : Blue False Lidigo {B. aus- tralis. — Blue ; June ; 2 to 5 feet. White False Indigo {B. alba). — Purplish tinged; 2 to 3 feet. 140 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. Berlandiera {B. tomentosa). — Yellow; downy leaves; 1 to 3 feet. Betonica {B. officinalis). — Purple; July; 2 feet. Boltonia {B. glastlfolia). — White; 3 to 5 feet. Brodi8ea,Allium-like {Brodima congesta). — Lilac; sum- mer ; 18 inches. Large-flowered Brodiaea {B. grandi- flora). — Bluish-purple; 1 foot. Brunella, Large-flowered [Brunella grandijlora). — Purplish-blue; summer; 9 inches. Cailirrhoe, Crimson {Oallirrhoe involucrata). — Crim- son; summer; 1 foot. Cailirrhoe, Large-rooted (C alcceoides). — White; summer ; 2 feet ; protect. Cailirrhoe, Triangular {C. triangulata). — Purple; 2 feet. Butterfly Tulip {Colochorius Gunnisoni). — White; Gto 8 inches. Senna, American {Cassia Marilandica). — Yellow; summer; 3 to 4 feet. Cupidone, Blue {Catananche c(Prtilea). — Sky-blue; summer; 2 to 3 feet. Centaurea, Mountain {Centaurea 7nontana). — Blue ; showy; June and July; 3 feet. Centaurea, Giant-headed (C macrocephala). — Bright yellow; June and July; 2 feet. Valerian, Red {Ceutrantlins rvher). — Red; June; 2 feet; also a white variety. Chelone, Snake's-Head ( CMowe glabra). — White and rose; 1 to 2 feet. Clematis, Erect {Clematis creda). — Whiti-sh ; small; June; 3 to 4 feet. Clematis, Entire-leaved {C. integri- folia). — Blue and white; June; 2 feet. Clintonia, Northern {Clintonia horealis). — Yellowish ; 6 inches. Coreopsis {Coreopsis). — There are several species ; yel- low; June; 1 to 3 feet. HARDY HERBACEOUS PIANTS. 141 Ooronilla {Coronilla varia). — Deep rose to white; June; 3 feet. Golden Aster {CJirysopsis Mariana). — Golden yellow ; late summer; G to 13 inches. Crosswort, Long-styled {Cniciauella styloaa). — Pink; summer; 13 to 18 inches. Fig. 9. — RUDBECKIA MAXIMA.. Leopard's Bane {Doronicum Caucasicum). — Yellow ; spring; 1 foot. Cone Flower, Purple {Echinacea jmrjnirea). — Maroon and purple; 4 feet. Cone Flower, Great {RudhecMa maxima). — Large; yellow; 6 feet; protect. 143 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. Cone Flower, Shining [E. n'tida). — Large golden rays; showy. Fleabane Rose {Erigeron macranthum). — Purple; July; 2 feet. Stork's Bill, Showy {Erodium Manescavi). — Purplish- red; summer; early spring; 15 inches. Aconite, Winter {Eranthis hyem'ilis). — Pale yellow ; early spring; 3 to 6 inches. Eupatorium, White Snake-root {Eu/patorium ager- afoides). — Late summer; 3 feet. There are a number of other desirable species. Spurge, Flowering. — [Euphorbia coroUata). — White ; July to October; 2 to 3 feet. Spurge, Glaucous {E. Myrsinites). — Yellow; prostrate; July. Gaura, Narrow-leaved (Gaura angustifolia). — From the Southern States; white; summer; 3 feet. Gentian, Closed {Gentiana Andrewsii). — Azure blue ; 12 to 18 inches. Gentian, Cross wort {G. cruciata). — Brilliant blue; 6 inches. Geranium, or Cranesbill, Blood- red ( Geranium safigui- neum). — Purplish-red ; summer ; 6 inches. Geranium, Broad-petaled (G. platypetalum). — Violet and red; 18 inches. Avens, Scarlet (Geiini coccineum). — Bright scarlet; summer; 1 to 2 feet; also a double variety. Bowman's Eoot {GiUenia trifoliata). — Rosy-white; July; 1 to 2 feet. Gypsophila, Acute-leaved {Gypsophila acntifolia). — White; summer; 12 to 20 inches. Gypsophila, Panicled {G. paniciilata). — White; summer; 2 to 4 feet. Sunflower, Narrow-leaved {Heliantlius angustifolius). Yellow ; autumn ; 3 feet. Sunflower, Soft-leaved [H. mollis). — Autumn; 2 to 4 feet, HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 143 Rose Mallow, Swamp {Hibiscus Moscheutos). — Pale rose; late summer; 2 to 4 feet. Rose Mallow, Large-flowered {H. grandiflorus). — Both white and red; 4 to 5 feet. Rose Mallow, Californian {H. Calif or nicus). — White, Avith purple centre; 3 to 5 feet. Hawkweed, Orange-colored {Hieracium aurmitiacum). — Bright orange; June; 1 foot. Hyssop {Hi/ssojncs officinalis). — Blue and white sorts; summer; 2 feet. Hyssop, Giant (Lophanthus anisatus). — Lavender; fragrant leaves; 2 feet. Flax, Perennial {Linum jterenne). — Fine blue ; sum- mer; 12 to 18 inches. There are also varieties of white, rose, and lilac colors. Lobelia, Great Blue {Lohelia syphilitica). — Purplish- blue; 1 to 2 feet. Cai'dinal Flower (L. cardinalis). — Fine scarlet; late summer; 2 to 4 feet. Trefoil, Bird's-foot {Lotus corniculatiis). — Yellow summer; trailing. Also a double variety. Lupine, Many-leaved {Lupinus polyphyllus). — Blue summer; 1 to 4 feet; protect. Loosestrife, Yell."»w {Lysimachia vulgaris). — Yellosv June, July; 2 feet. Loosestrife, Clethra-like {L. clethroides). — White autumn; V/^ to 2 feet. Moneywort {L. nummularia). — Yellow ; late sum- mer; prostrate. Mallow, Moren's {Malva Morenii). — Reddish; late summer; 2 to 3 feet. Lungwort, Panicled {Mertensia paniculata). — Blue ; July; 1 to 2 feet. Virginia Cowslip, or Lungwort {M. Virginica). — Fine blue; spring; 1 to 3 feet. 14:4 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. Monkey Flower, Cardinal {Mimulus cardinali^).--^- Scarlet; 1 to 2 feet; protect. Bee-Balm, or Horseuiint (Monarda didyma). — Bright red ; summer; 2 to 3 feet; protect. Catnip, Mussin's {Nepeta Mussini). — Azure blue ; downy; fragrant leaves; June; 1 foot. White Cup {Nierembergia rimilaris). — Creamy white; June; 3 inches. Evening Primrose, Missouri [Oenothera Mis-3uriensis). — Yellow; prostrate. Evening Primrose, Tall White {(E. sj^eciosa). — AVhite and purple; G inches to 2 feet. Mountain Spurge {Pacliijsandra procumhens). — Purple and white; prostrate. St. Bernard's Lily {Anthericum Liliago). — White in spikes; summer; 1 foot. Dragon Head {Physostegia Virginlana). — Purplish red; 4 feet. Knotweed, Giant {Polygonum cuspidatum). — White; summer; 3'/, to 8 feet. Knotweed, Red (P. vaccini- folium). — Rose; autumn; to 10 inches. Pentstemon, Scarlet (P. harbatu><). — Scarlet; summer; 3 feet. Cinquefoil, Pyrenian {Potent ill-i pyrenaica). — ^ Yellow; May; dwarf. Turfing Daisy {Pyrethrum TcMliatcliewii). — For cover- ing poor soils; 3 inches. Buttercup, or Crowfoot, Double {Ranunculus hulho- sus). — Yellow; spring; 18 inches. Buttercup, Rhomboid {R. rliomhoideus). — Deep yel- low; spring; 3 to 6 inches. Crowfoot, Early {R. fascicular is). — Bright yellow ; 5 to 9 inches. Skullcap {Scutellaria). — Numerous species ; purplish; summer. Groundsel {Senecio). — A few of the Groundsels are HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 145 quite ornamental. Golden Ragweed (^S'. aureus). — Yel- low; cut leaves; 1 to 2 feet. Satin Flower {Sisyrinchmm grandiflorum). — Purple ; spring; 6 to 10 inches. Golden Rod {Solidago). — A number of species; yellow; autumn; 3 to 8 feet. Solomon's Seal {Pol i/go fiat iim vulgare). — White ; 2 to 3 feet. Solomon's Seal, Japan (var. macranthum). — White; May; 2 to 4 feet. Hedge-Nettle, Woolly {Sfachys lanata). — Purj^le; July; 1 foot. Hedge-Nettle, Scarlet (coccinea). — Scarlet; July ; 3 to 4 feet. Sea Pink, or Thritt {Armeria vulgaris). — Rosy-lilac; summer; 6 inches. Costmary {Tanacetum Balsamita). — Pale yellow; autumn. Meadow Rue, Showy ( Thalidrum speciosum). — Showy; yellow; 3 to 4 feet. Meadow Rue, Columbine {T. aqni- legifoUum. — Purplish; 2 to 3 feet. Star Flower, Spring {Triteleia nnijfora). — Whitish; spring; 4 to 6 inches; protect. Bellwort (Uvidaria). — A number of sorts; yellowish; 6 inches to 2 feet. Valerian ( Valeriana oflci)iaIis). — B\n8\\ white; June ; 3 feet. Verbena, Hardy ( Verbena bijrinnatifida, also called V. montana). — Rosy-lilac; summer; 9 inches. CLASS IV. — ALPINES AND ROCK PLANTS. The plants under this head are mostly natives of high elevations, and lovers of dry, sandy, or stony soil, hence perfectly at home on rockwork. Nearly all do well in the border, but being of small stature, they should be planted at the front. 7 146 OKNAMENTAL GARDENING. Thrift, Prickly {AcanthoUmon glumaceum). — Rose; summer; 6 inches. Thrift, Gomraon {Armeria vulgaris). — Pink; summer; 6 inches. Thrift, Plantain-like (^1. plantaginea). — Purplish- red. Milfoil, Woolly {Achillea tomoitosa). — Yellow; sum- mer; 8 inches. Golden Tuft {Alyssum saxatile). — Yellow ; grayish leaves; spring; 1 foot. Golden Tuft, Dense (var. compadum). — More com- pact than the parent. Kidney Vetch, Mountain [A^ithyllis montana). — Pink; summer; 6 inches. Columbine, Wild {Aquilegia Canadensis). — Scarlet and yellow; May; 1 foot to 18 inches. Rock Cress {Arabis). — Several species; white; spring; dwarf. Sandwort {Arenaria). — Several species; white; early summer; low. Meadow Saffron, Spring {Biclbocodiiwi vernmn). — Violet; early spring; 6 inches. Aubriecia {Auhrietia). — Several species ; white and purple; spring and summer; 3 inches. Quamash (Oamassia). — Several species; blue; purple, etc.; 12 to 15 inches. Harebell, Common {Campanula rotundifoUa). — Deep blue; 6 to 12 inches. Harebell, Ligurian {G. isophylla). — Blue ; 4 inches. Harebell, Carpathian {C. Garpatica). — Large, showy; blue; 'J inches. Mouse-ear Chick weed. Woolly {Cerastium tomen- tosnm). — White; summer; 2 to 6 inches. Mouse-ear Chickweed, Boissier's {C. Boissieri). HARDY HERBACEOUS PLAATS. J47 Wallflower, Alpine {Chciratithus alpitms). — Yellow; spring; 9 inches. Spring Beanty {Claytonia Vivginica). — Rose; early spring; inches. Clematis, Herbaceous {Clematis). — Several orna- mental species; purplish; 6 to 12 inches. Barrenwort, Alpine [Ejnniedium alpimim). — Purplish; May; 6 to 9 inches. Barrenwort, Large yellow {E. pinnatum). Erinus, Alpine {Erinus aJpinns). — Purplish and white ; 3 to 6 inches. Gentian, Stemless {Gentiaiia acaulis). — Velvet blue ; May; 1 to 3 inches. Geum, Mountain {Geum montanum). — Bright yellow; 9 to 18 inches. Ground Ivy (Nepeta Glechoma). — Robust, dense creeper. Bluets, Common {Houdonia rmrulea). — Shade of blue; early spring; 3 to 6 inches. Bluets, Thyme-leaved {H. seipyUifolia). Toadflax, Alpine {Linaria aljnna). — Violet and yel- low; 3 to 6 inches. Lychnis, Rock {Lychnis Lagascm). — Bright rose; sum- mer; 3 to 6 inches. Catchfly, German {L. Viscaria, var. splendetis). — Bright red; 12 to 18 inches. Prickly Pear {Opuntia Rafinesquii). — Hardy Cactus; yellow; 6 to 10 inches. Wood Sorrel, \\o\Qt {Oxalis violacea). — Violet; spring; 5 to 9 inches. Partridge, or Squaw Berry {Mitchella repens). — White; scarlet fruit; trailing. Pentstemon, Acute-leaved {Pentstemon acuminattis). — Lilac; 6 to 20 inches; protect. Phlox, Douglas's {Phlox Doiiglasii — Whitish purple ; 6 to 12 inches. 148 ORNAMENTAL GARDENIXa. Phlox, Lovely (P. ammnn). — Pinkish ; to 12 inches. Pine-barren Beauty {Pyxidanthera harhulata). — Pink- ish white; spring; prostrate. Soapwort, Rock {Sfqjonaria ocymoides). — Eosy-piuk ; summer; G to 12 inches. Fig. 10. — THICK-LEAVED SAXIFRAGE (Soxifraga crassifolia). Saxifrage, Early {Saxifraja Virginiensis). — White ; 6 inches. Saxifrage, Heart-leaved (*S'. cordifolia). — Blush- red; April and May; 6 to 9 inches. Saxifrage, Thick-leaved {S. crassifolia). — Resembles the last. Saxifrage, Strap-leaved {S. ligulata). — Red ; dark- red foliage; spring; 6 to 9 inches. HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 119 Stonecrop or Sedum {Sedum). — There are many spe- cies and varieties, of which but a few are named here ; all do equally well in the border. Love Entangle (6'. acre). — Several forms; yellow; 3 inches. Stonecrop, Orange-flowering {8. Kamtschaticuvi). — Yellow; fine; July; 6 inches. Sedum, Beautiful {S. pulcheUitm). — Pink ; July ; 6 inches. Sedum, Poplar-leaved {S. popuUfoUum). — Creamy- white; August; G inches. Sedum, Siebold's {S. Sieboldii). — Rosy-purple; autumn; also a variegated form, Sedum, Showy {S. spedaMle). — Eosy purple ; avitumn. Live-for-ever (^S'. TelepMum). — Purple ; summer; 2 feet. Live-for-ever, Dark-red (var. hyhridutn). — Very showy foliage and flowers. Houseleek {Sempervivu7n). — Numerous species; showy in flowers and leaves. Catchfly, Alpine {Silene alpestris). — White ; 3 to 6 inches. Tunica, Rock {Timica Saxifraga). — Whitish; summer; 3 to 4 inches. Speedwell, Alpine {Veronica alpma). — Bluish; 2 to 12 inches. Strawberry, Barren ( Waldsieinia fragarioides). — Yel- low; summer; 2 to G inches. CLASS V. — FERNS AND SHADE-LOVING PLANTS. This list embraces such plants, as are usually met in partly open woods, exiting our admiration by their simple beauty, and often by the sweetness of their flowers. Directions are given in Part IV for preparing a soil that 150 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. will suit them. While all love moisture, they ■will not do well where it is exceedingly wet. Some prefer the elevation that rockwork in the shade affords. In these cases the fact is stated along with the descriptions. Anemone, Wood {Anemone nemorosa). — White; early spring; G inches. Double Wood Anemone. — Double; white ; G inches. Double Bracted Anemone (var, brac- teata). — Double ; white ; green bracts. Double Rose- colored Anemone. — Double ; red. Apennine Anemone (.4. Apennina). — Bright blue; early spring; 6 inches. Adam and Eve {Aplectrum hyemale). — A hardy native orchid. Jack in the Pulpit {Arismma tripJiylhim). — Purple and white; 18 inches. Snakeroot, Virginian {Aristulochia Serpentaria). — Purple; summer; 18 inches. Snakeroot, Canadian [Asarum Canadense). — Brown- ish-purple; spring. Snakeroot, Heart-leaved (.4. Virginicum). — Purple and green; April; low. Tailed Snakeroot (.4. caudatum). — Brownish-purple. Cornus, Dwarf, or Bunch Berry {Cornus Canadensis). White; June; 5 to 7 inches. Lady's Slipper, Stemless {Cypripedium acaide). — Rosy-purple; May; 10 inches. Lady's Sliiii^er, European {C. Calceolus). — Dark- brown; 2 feet. Cowslip, American or Shooting Star [Dodecatheon Meadia. — Rose; spring; 8 to 12 inches. Cowslip, American, Jaff ray's (var. lancifolium). — A larger variety. Trailing Arbutus, or Mayflower {Epigcea repens). — White and pink; prostrate. Ferns and Brakes. — The following are some of the most useful hardy species : HARDY UERBACEOUS PLANTS. 151 Maiden-hair Fern, Hardy {Adiantum pedatum). — 9 to 15 inches. Fragrant Wood Fern {Aspidiumfragrans). — 4 to 12 inches. Shield Fern (^1. acrostichiodes). — 1 to 3 feet. Chaniisso's Shield Fern [A. mmiitum). — 1 to 5 feet. Spleen wort [Asplenium eb&neum). — 8 inches and up- ward. Moonwort {Botryclimnyi). — There are several species. Walking Fern {Camptosorus tdnzophi/lhis). — Pros- trate. Lip Fern, Hairy {Cheilanthes vestiia).-^ to 15 inches. Fig. 11.— DOWNY LIP FERN ( Vheilanthes tomentosa). Lip Fern, Downy (C. tomentosa). — Eather stout; 12 to 20 inches; protect. Deer Fern {Lomaria Sjncant). — Evergreen; 6 to 30 inches. Flowering Fern (Osmunda). — Several species; 2 to 5 feet. 152 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. Polypod Fern {Polypodium vulgare). — Evergreen; 4 to 10 inches. Chuin Fern ( Woodsia Ilvensis). — 2 to 6 inches. Cliff Brake {Pellcea atrojmrpurea). — 2 to 6 inches. Common Brake {Pteris aquilina). — 2 feet. Fritillaria, Lance- leaved [Fritillaria lanceolata). — Purple ; summer; 6 inches. Fritillaria, Purple {F. atrojpurpurea). — Purplish ; 4 to 20 inches. Rattlesnake Plantain {Goodyera). — Several species with fine leaves; shaded rocky. Christmas Rose, Common {Helleborus tiiger). — Green- ish-white; early spring; 1 foot. Christmas Rose, Dark Purple (//. atrorubens). — Pur- plish-red; 1 foot. Helonias, Spiked {Helonias iullata). — Showy purple; May; 1 to 2 feet. Hepatica, or Liverleaf {Hejyatica). — Shades of hlue ; early spring. There are various colors, and single and double varieties. Orchis, Showy {Orchis spedabilis). — Pink, purple, white lip ; 4 to 8 inches. Polygala, Fringed {Poly gala pa a e if oli a).— FnriAe; 3 to 4 inches. Rosette Mullein {Ramondia Pyrenaica). — Purple and orange; 2 to 6 inches. Meadow Beauty {Rhexia Virginica). — Reddish-purple; neat; 8 to 12 inches. Bloodroot {Satigninaria Canadensis). — Purple; white; early spring; 3 to 8 inches. Club Moss {Selaginella). — Several useful native species. False Solomon's Seal {Smilacina steUafa). — White ; summer; 1 to 2 feet. Wake Robin, Nodding {Trilliiim cernuum). — White; nodding; spring; 12 to 18 inches. HARDY HERBACEOtTS PLANTS. 153 Wake Robin, Painted {T. crythrocarpum). — White and purple; spring; 8 to 12 inches. Wake Rol)in, Snowy (7'. nivale). — Small ; white ; early spring; 2 to 4 inches. Wood Lily {T. grandiflorum). — Large; white, chang- ing to rose. Violet, Canada ( Viola Canadensis). — Whitish ; sum- mer; 1 foot. Yiolet, Yellow {V. pubescens). — Yellow; spring; 6 to 12 inches. Violet, Arrow-leaved ( F. sagittata). — Purplish blue; spring. May Apple {Podophyllum peltatum). — White ; May ; 1 foot. CLASS VI. — AQUATIC AND BOG PLANTS. An interesting class of plants, and quite easy to grow, where attention to their simple requirements is jiaid; re- specting these, some information is given in Part IV as to place and soil. Sweet Flag {Acorns Calamus). — Greenish ; sword-like leaves; 2 to 3 feet. Green Dragon {Arismna Dracontimn). — Greenish; divided leaves. Water Shield {Erase nia pell at a). — Darkjmrple; July. Calopogou {C. palchrllHs). — An orchid; ])ui'p]e; 1 foot. Marsb Marigold {CaWia palustris). — Yellow ; spring ; 1 foot. Marsh Marigold, Double. — A variety of the above. Calypso, Northern {Calypso borealis). — An orchid ; pink and yellow. Lady's Slipper, Showy {Cypripedium sjiedabile). — White, crimson; July; 1 to 2 feet. Lady's Slipper, Small White {C. candidum). — Greenish-white; 1 foot. 154 ORNAMENTAL GARDENm^. Lady's Slipper, Small Yellow (C. parvijiorum). — Yellow; spring; 1 to 2 feet. Lady's Slipper, Eam's Head [C. arietinum). — Red and white; June; 6 to 10 inches. Pitcher Plant, California {Darlingtonia Californica). PurjDlish; 1 to 3 feet; protect. Marsh Calla {Calla palustris). — White; summer; G to 9 inches. Sundew, Thread-leaved {Drosera Jiliformis). — Rose summer; 6 to 12 inches. Sundew, Round-leaved {D. rotundifolia). — White summer; 6 inches. Fringed Orchis, Yellow {Habenaria ciliaris). — Yellow summer; 1 to 2 feet. Fringed Orchis, White {H. hlephariglottis). — White 12 to 15 inches. Fringed Orchis, Purple {H. fimbriata). — Lilac, purple; 1 to 2 feet. Fringed Orchis, Small Purple {H. psycodes). — Purple; fragrant; 12 to 18 inches. Cardinal Flower {Lobelia cardiimlis). — Intense scarlet; 1 to 3 feet. Water Lily, White {Nymplma odorata). — White, changing to rose. Water Lily, YelloAV {Nttjibar advcna). — Yellow ; summer. Golden Club {Oronfiion aquaticum). — Elliptic leaves ; fine for ponds. Grass of Parnassus (Parnassia asarifoUa). — White ; summer; 3 to G inches. Pogonia (Pogonia). — A hardy orchid ; a number of species. Centaury, American {Sabbatia chloroides). — Rose; summer; 12 to 18 inches. Centaury, Lance-leaved {S. lanceolata). — White; 1 to 3 feet. HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 155 Arrow Head [Sagittaria rariahilis). — Aquatic, with pretty leaves. Pitcher-Plant, Side-Sad die Flower {Sari'acenia pur- purea). — Puriale ; 1 foot. There are several other in- teresting species of Sarracenia. Fig. 12. — ARROW HEAD {Sagittaria variabilis). Globe Flower, American (TroUius laxus). — Greenish- yellow; May; 1 foot. Cat-tail, or Reed Mace {Typha Idtifolia). — Brown; summer; 3 to 5 feet. Cat-tail, Narrow-leaved (7^. angustifolia). — More slender and smaller. Pickerel Weed (Pontederia caudata). — Blue ; July ; a fine water-plant. 156 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. CH APTEK X. ANNUAL PLANTS. What are known as Annuals, are those plants which owe their perpetuation, especially in the North, to seeds, or to bulbs which are taken up in the fall and started new- ly with every year. The plants grow up, flower, produce a new crop of seed or bulbs, and then die, all in one season. Although the lists of annual flowers in the catalogues are usually very extensive — some German catalogues containing lists of no less than three thousand different sorts — it is found that the number of those which really possess a high order of attractiveness is not very large. As the catalogues of dealers usually treat elaborately on the matter of varieties, merits, and adaptability, in the present book, I only take space to give some select lists to guide planters, referring the reader to the catalogues for additional matter. Some kinds embraced in the lists below, are perennials or biennials, but as they flower tlie first season from the seed, they are brought into this selection. In the lists, h stands for hardy annual, or sorts thr.t may be treated as such ; h, h, stands for half hardy annuals ; t. for tender annuals. Directions for sowing are given in Part V. A SELECTION OF THE CHOICER KINDS OF BEDDING AN- NUALS. Aster, h, h. Petunia, //, h. Balsam, h, li. Phlox Drummondi, li. Candytuft, li, Portulaca. /. Cockscomb, t. Snap Dragon, li. Larkspur, li. Stocks, li, h. Marigold, h. Sweet Alyssum, h. Mignonette, h. Verbena, li, h. Dwarf Nasturtium, h, h. Zinnia. //. Pansy, //. Sweet Pea, h. ANNUAL PLANTS. 157 A SELECTION OF BEDDING ANNUALS OF SECONDAEIT MERIT. Abronia, li. Calliopsis, h. Callirrhoe, h. Campannla, Ji. Bati-helor's Button, h. Collinsi'.i, h. D vvarf Morniug Glory, h Centranthus, h. Clarkia. li. Age rata m, Ji. Esclischoltzia, li. Erysimum, h. Godetia, h. Swan Ri Sunflower, h. Lychnis, h, li. Lupine, li. Flora's Paint Brush, h. Gaillardia, li. Browallia, //, li. Four O'Clocks, t. Nigel la, li. Salpiglossis, A, h. Salvia, /. Mourning Bride, li. Sensitive Plant, t. Sweet Rocket, li. ver Daisy, li, li. A SELECTION OF ANNUALS OF CLIMBING AND RUNNING HABIT. Morning Glory, li. Cobaea scandens, t. Hyacinth Bean, /. Gourds, t. Cypress Vine, t. Maurandia, t. Nasturtium, h, li. Canary Bird Flower, li, h. Thunbergia, t. Scarlet Runner, t. A SELECTION OF ANNUALS WITH SHOWY FOLIAGE SUIT- ABLE FOR TROPICAL EFFECTS. Amaranthus, t. Canna, li. It. Chamaepeuce, h, h. Centaurea, h, h. Glaucium, //, h. Perilla, h, 1i. Castor Oil Bean, t. Golden Feather, h. Tobacco, t. Striped Maize, t. 158 ORXAMEXTAL GARDENING. A SELECTION OF ANNUALS SUITABLE FOR NATURALI- ZATION IN THE WILD GARDEN. Clarkia. Lei)tosiphon. Collomia. Portulaca. Erisjmum. Gilia. Euc'haridiiim. Poppy. Candytuft. Platystemon. Gypsophila, Silene. Godetia. Sapoaaria. A SELECTION OF ANNUAL BULBS, TUBERS, AND ROOTS. Caladiiim. Madeira Vine. Canna. Oxalis. Dahlia. Tuberose. Erythrina. Tigridia. Gladiolus. Eicliardia. CHAPTER XI. TENDER PERENNIAL PLANTS. By tlie help of artificial heat in green-houses, the list of natural materials for ornamental gardening is much enlarged. We go towards the equator and collect at- tractive species, and by preserving them from the cold in winter, can turn them out in summer, and thus are able to enjoy something of tropical vegetation in the North. Lack of space forbids giving much attention to this subject here, but several lists are introduced, in which are named the leading kinds of plants used for adorning pleasure grounds, and where further informa- tion is wanted, the reader is referred to books on flori- culture, and to the catalogues of florists. TZXDEB PERENNIAL PLANTS. 159 A SELECTION OF TENDEB BEDDING PLANTS. Alyssum, Variegated. Alyssum, Double flowering. Abutilon. Century Plant. Ageratum. Alteruauthera. Carnation. Cigar Plant (Cuphea). Coleus. Dusty Miller (Cenfaurea). Echeveria. Geranium, single, double, and variegated-leaved. Dew Plant {Mesembryan- themxm). Gnaphalium lanatum. Heliotrope. Hibiscus. Lantana. Lobelia. Leucophyton. Othonna sedifolia. Salvia splendens. Verbena. Achyranthes. Sedums. Variegated Thyme. Variegated Stevia. Canna*. Caladiums. A SELECTION OF PLANTS WITH SHOWY FOLIAGE STIIT^ ABLE POB EFFECTS IN SUB-TROPICAL GAEDENS. Acacia lophantha. Agaves in variety. Alsophila australis. Aralia macrophylla. Aralia papyrifera. Araucaria excelsa. Caladium. Canna. Chamaepeuce diacantha. Dracenas in variety. Echeveria Metallica. Erythina Crista-galli. Ferdiuanda eminens. Ficus elastica. Dicksonia antarctica. Melianthus major. Musa Enset^. Papyrus autiquomm. Phormium tenax. Polymnia grandis. Solanum Warscewiczii. TTigandia macrophylla. Eicinus in variety. PALMS. Corypha australis. Carludovica palmata. Caryota in variety. Chama?rops in variety. Cycas revoluta. Latania Borbonica. Phoenix in variety. Seaforthia elesrana. IGO OENAMENTAL GARDENING. CHAPTER XII. MISCELLANEOUS NATURAL MATERIAL. Rocks and stones are not, like soil, absolutely neces- sary to garden making, yet the frequency with which these are met in attractive natural scenery, and their power in contributing to picturesqueness, entitle them, at the least, to be named among available garden materials. In other parts of this book, considerable attention is paid to their use in ornamental gardening. What is true of the ornamental value of rocks, is main- ly and in an enlarged degree true of water in garden and landscape scenery. Remove the sparkling river, lake, and spring, the gurgling rill, swift rapids and water- falls, out of nature, and she would be devoid of some of her most attractive charms. It is well, there- fore, to consider the ornamental value of water, when gardens are large enough to admit of it in some form. Some kinds of beasts, birds, and fishes add much to the charms of natural scenery. Cattle, sheep, and deer, grazing or else reclining in the shade, contribute an effect to scenes that without them would be tame. The sweet-voiced birds in the trees, the graceful water-fowl in the lake, or the schools of tame fishes within its bosom, are all of great value for adding to the interest of pleasure grounds. While in the majority of places it may not be practicable to do much in the way of intro- ducing these, yet their value should not be lost sight of where circumstances will allow of them. In addition to the natural garden making mate- rials which have now been named in this book, there are many other things, from the gravel of walks to the slate on the roof, that might be enumerated. But as these are used mostly as mere constructive material, there is little need of so doing. PART III. ARRANGEMENT. CHAPTER XIII. GENERAL PRINCIPLES. NATURE AS A TEACHER. As nature supplies the materials for making gardens, so also we may take lessons from her in arranging them. Still the primitive, natural style of arrangement can sel- dom be closely followed in the majority of places that are to be improved. The horticulturist takes the wild plants from fields and woods, and in improving them always finds in nature herself a co-worker, and succeeds in rearing some plants that are more beautiful than the wild. So natural arrangement may be studied, and in planning our comparatively restricted garden plats, the lessons thus gained may be modified to meet the wants of every case. Indeed, just so far as our improved plants and flowers are more ornamental than the parental wild forms, so do we possess more and richer material for creating garden effects, than is seen in nature. We may aim in ornamental gardening to exhibit nature idealized, rather than nature real. The fundamental difference between natural land- scapes, and made gardens, is, that in the former only natural materials exist, while in the latter much that is artificial, houses, walks, streets, etc., enters in, as a rule, exerting a strong influence on effects. Such being the case we are often led to a different course of action in gardening, than if we dealt solely with natural effects. (161) 162 OliNAMENTAL GAKDENING. MA JOE AND MINOR FEATUEES OF EMBELLISHMENT. It is important to observe that the nearer the mate- rials used for making ornamental gardens are to their natural condition, the more freely may they be used, if generally appropriate without offending good taste and vice versa. A town lot, for example, might be un- adoi-ned, except with grass and not look distasteful, but if we plant every foot solid with the brightest art-im- proved flowers, the effect would then be shocking. Use a large proportion of grass — because it is a material near the natural condition, and a few improved flowers — be- cause they are more or less distantly removed from their primitive forms by culture, and both are' better for these proportions. In the same class with grass are trees, shrubs, wild flowers, rocks, and water, and these, when not in a general way inappropriate, and are ar- ranged naturally, may be used almost without limit as major features of adornment in landscape gardening. But arrange trees and shrubs formally, or clip them into ^^nnatural shapes, or make "geometrical" beds of im- jiroved flowers, or artifical terraces, walks and drives, or bring statuary, fountains, and the like into gardens, and it must, as a rule, be on a moderate scale or bad effects result. Such productions in gardening, like Jewels in dress, must lie used with discretion, having an appropri- ate setting, or their power to gratify is weakened. The famous gardens of Versailles, France, are only great in the respect that millions of francs have been spent in the stupid attempt to enlarge what should serve as minor embellishments into leading features, crowding the place with semi-natural and artificially clipped trees, formal beds, fountains, water-works, avenues, terraces, etc., until nothing is left to embellish. But a garden may be so essentially artificial, owing to smallness or the proximity of large buildings, etc., that GENERAL PRINCIPLES. 163 an artificial style of embellishment may fitly prevail to a considerable degree, on the principle that the introduced garden features are yet decidedly subordinate in degree, to the general features — in this case strongly artificial. Thus urns and boxes filled with the brightest flowers may be used in roof, portico, or window gardening, to a degree that would be utterly out of place in the same proportions in general gardening. So too, conspicuous terraces and slopes are in better taste inclose conjunction with buildings — especially large ones, than in the midst of a garden not naturally very undulating. VAEIETY. In natural landscapes, it is the variety afforded by woodland, meadow, mountain and water, the light and shade in trees and plants, the sunshine and shadow, the cheerfulness in forms, foliage and flowers, the spark- ling of water, the sound of rills, and other of nature's attractions that charm us. And then in such a distribu- tion of these, as to render no two scenes alike, we find great delight for our love of variety. This should lead us to aim in gardening at introducing first, the peculiar uatural and other beauty each garden can best support in good variety. Secondly, to act on nature's sugges- tion, and vary the effects of different gardens as they may allow. As no two natural landscapes are exactly alike, so no two gardens ever need be. CHAKACTER AND EXPRESSION. Individual character and positive qualities are as desir- able in gardens as in architecture, or as they are in per- sons. In the garden, these chiefly depend on the shape of surface, the natural lay of the land, outlines, size and character of tlie buildings, size and arrangement of trees, walks, drives, etc. Some grounds are like some men, 1G4 OENAMENTAL GAKDENING. hard and abrupt in character, naturally, and will hear cultivation and a toning down of some of the projections. Others are found that possess grace of outlines, and an air of polish that will need little improving. Some lands are tame, flat, and spiritless, requiring all the gardener's arts to render them pleasing. Outside influences, such as the sea, trees, buildings, etc., in sight, also affect the character and appearance of the place. These in a sense are subject to our control, as respects giving them a set- ting, so to speak, by opening vistas towards them be- tween plantations as viewed from the interior, or shut- ting them out of view entirely. This is a matter requir- ing much attention when arranging a garden. One piece of ground may resemble another in general character, and yet be greatly varied in expression and tone. With the use of different styles and colors of trees, shrubs, and plants — in both foliage and flowers, we may control and vary expression in gardening to a marked degree, and change the appearance of different gardens otherwise essentially alike. We have power to clothe these, as we do our bodies with materials, styles, and colors to suit every taste. ORDER AND SIMPLICITY. These are chief elements of all true beauty. It is not uncommon to see gardens of pretence, that are complete muddles of grass, trees, wMlks, drives, arbors, etc. In nothing will order and simplicity count for more than when using garden-making materials with a view to creating beautiful effects about our homes and grounds. Through a desire for display, one is liable to overdo, by bringing too many objects into the garden and scattering them unduly. Simplicity implies neither poverty in materials or in design. A garden, or the parts of a garden, may be essentially simple in design, and elaborate in detail. GENERAL PRINCIPLES. 165 UNITY AND HARMONY. A unity of the objects of a garden for contributing to a complete whole, a harmonizing of these, one with an- other, and a balance of the different features and sections, are important things to secure in planning an ornamental garden. Where marked features and bold contrasts are sought, there should also be agreeable, easy transition from one to another, without abrupt breaks to interfere with the harmony. In all large works abounding in de- tails, we crave for some such comprehensive plan, where- by the total may be retained while surveying the part. BREADTH AND EXTENT. Nothing is more desirable to secure in a garden than an air of breadth and repose, such as nature so often re- veals in her attractive landscapes. This can be doue by keeping some conspicuous areas clear in their center, ex- cepting grass, and skirting them al)out with masses of woody and other growths. Natural landscapes usually suggest the idea of unlimited exteut beyond what the eye sees at any point. The same thing is quite possible to secure in our gardens, by managing them to show ample breadth in parts, and some extended vistas be- tween the farthest limits, and then breaking the views along the outlines, by so planting that there may seem to be large areas unseen beyond projecting groups. There is such a thing as so managing an acre, that it shall seem as large as two or more acres. Where outside scenery, like mountains, water, neigh- boring landscapes, etc., can be "appropriated" to con- tribute to one's own garden, by so arranging the interior as to allow such scenery to show at its best from the gar- den, or even seem to be a part of it. This can often easily be accomplished, and by all means lot it be done. 166 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. RICHNESS AND FINISH. A certain air of richness and finish in the arrangement and keeping of the pleasure grounds, goes far towards raising them up to the highest ideal of such a place. Gracefulness of lines, elegance of ornaments, and a gen- eral appearance of finish in the composition and the effect ^f groups, are among the features that delight us. A place in even a partial state of disorder and neglect, shocks our sense of beauty. Due regard to the lit- tle matters of mown lawns, clean walks, carefully at- tended edges, absence of weeds and litter, cultivated borders, clean and well-painted architectural features, have such a marked effect on tlie pleasure a place may afford that they can not be lightly disregarded. CONVENIENCE. Let it be remembered that gardens are for use as well as ornament, hence they should be accessible and con- venient, and this should always be kept in mind in lo- cating different objects, walks, and drives. There is no more conflict between utility and beauty in the garden than elsewhere, and we may always aim to have it very convenient, and at the same time very handsome. CHAPTER XIV. THE HOME BUn^DINGS. The house, because of its crowning importance, and for sanitary reasons also, should stand somewhat elevated above the common surface. The same is true in a some- what less degree of other buildings also. If grounds are level, or if the most suitable place for the building is not as high as would be desirable, the foundation walls may THE SURFACE. 167 be carried to a proper elevation, then by using the soil excavated for cellars and foundations, and more if needed, for filling in, the surface may be brought as high as de- sirable, allowing properly for settling. As finished, the surface should slope away from every building, so that water from heavy rains and snows will be led from, in- stead of towards the walls, to cause dampness. The windows and verandas should be so situated as to command good views of the garden, and especially from the living rooms. We want the benefit of garden beauty in the home, when the state of the Aveather forbids walk- ing out, and at all other times. There is no more de- lightful time for enjoying the garden than during, or just after a rain, or in twilight, when approaching nightfall softens the outlines and casts a mellowness and quietness over the scene. The house and garden should both be planned with reference to the enjoyment of the view at such times as these. When buildings are too low, as seen from the street, or from the garden it- self, they have a depressing influence on the surround- ings, robbing the scene of much of the fine effect which belongs to every well designed structure, and not allow- ing the purely ornamental features of it to show for all they are worth. CHAPTEE XV. THE SUEFACE. That which may be called character, in an ornamental garden, is largely owing to tlie contour of its surface. It is realized at once that a flattish garden, which hap- pens to be lower through its center, has a tame look, while a similar piece, but slightly crowning along the middle, seems to possess character. Sometimes, however, 168 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. a plot perfectly straight in its surface line is pleasing, and seems to fit a jjlace better than any other could, but, as a rule, some variation from the straight line is prefer- able. In nature we find more delight in the bold hills and valleys than in level stretches of plain. This is because we love variety, and in undulations of the surface, we find a form of this, independent of the variety afforded by that which grows upon it. This fact suggests the de- sirability of introducing undulations, wherever the size of grounds and other circumstances will allow. For small grounds of a third of an acre and less, aside from buildings, the even or slightly crowning center is, as regards shape, the best. But eveu in these, in many Fig. 13.— AN UNDULATING BORDER. cases a decided departure may be made which, without destroying the identity of the style, will afford scope for bringing in not only considerable variety of surface in places, but also the means for greatly increasing the beauty in other ways. I refer to tlie making of a series of undulations which are to be treated as cultivated borders, for some years at least, to be planted with small trees, flowering and evergreen shrubs and plants. These borders should come mostly along the boun- daries, and may vary in width according to the size of the place. Figure 13 illustrates the outlines of one of these. The merits of such borders in creating interest and variety in a place, however small, are several. Firstly, by making them of varying widths throughout their length, the ground in them may be made more crown- THE SUEFACE. 109 ing in the wide parts than where they are narrower, thus causing a marked variation of the surface in the center lengthwise. Then tlie wavy outlines give variety in the shape of the border on the grounds, where it meets the grass. Further still, with affording room for planting numerous trees, shrubs and plants, of different forms, habits and seasons of attractiveness, ? great addition to the interest and beauty of a place is possible. Besides these, if selections of trees, shrubs, etc., for plant- ing, the size they attain at maturity is kept in view, by placing tall- growing subjects in the highest parts, and dwarf kinds in the lower and narrower places, a still further means of creating variety is gained. Something similar to the boundary borders may also be made next to the house, at junctions of walks and other jdaces, for the sake of having more of this feature, and to preserve a proper balance throughout the grounds. Fig. 14. — A RAISED BORDER AGAINST TUE HOUSE. Fisf. 15. — UNDUI-ATED BORDER PLANTED WITH SHRUBBERY AND FLOWERS. Those next to the house may come along the foundation in front of the i)iazza. around bay windows, or in cor- ners made by ir.igL's in the shape of the house, somewhat S 170 ORXAMENTAL GARDENING. as indicated in figure 14, while the same method of ar- ranging the plants indicated for the marginal borders, may be employed here. Figure 15 shows the appearance of these planted un- dulations, with the effect of the variations in the size of growths alluded to. It will be seen that with all the advantages of this style for creating interest, there may still be maintained, even in small places, the open area of laAvn, essential for imparting an air of breadth and repose. Another gain by such borders is, that with good ar- rangement, they hide the natural limits of a place, thus giving an idea of increased largeness of the garden area. Instead of the conspicuous sharp line caused by the fence meeting the ground, we may have an ac- tually longer, because wavy line, at the front for the eye Fig. 16. Fi.^. 17. ADJUSTING GROUNDS TO THE LEVEL OF THE STREET. to rest ui)on, by this means ridding the place of an air of narrowness and angularity, and having instead, graceful lines of increased length, decidedly conducive to pleas- ing effect. No two places should receive the same treatment, as regards shape and planting of undulating boi-ders. The plans figure 30 to 35 will give some idea regarding differ- ent ways of arrangement. It is surprising what an effect small rises and depressions, of even a few inches, will have in removing dullness, and imparting an air of ofrace and freedom to such borders or to mounds. In some places along the boundary there should be breaks extending to the fence. In selecting shrubs, pains should be talien to employ those of strikingly different appearance THE SURFACE. m in leaf, flowers, and forms, for the sake of contrast, and to place those with beautiful foliage and habits, near the house, and other conspicuous places. Sometimes undulated borders maybe employed toad- vantage in another way. A case of a two-acre garden on a corner, where there was a continuous fall in the streets in a south and eastern direction, amounting to about fifteen feet, may be used to illustrate. It was considered desirable, owing to the natural lay of the land, to keep the surface of the gar- den nearly level, not- withstanding the fall in the street. Figures 16, 17, 18, representing cross sections of the boundary undulations at these points, namely, where the street was a little higher than the general garden level, (figure IH). Where it was uniform with it (figure 17), and wliere considerably lower (fig- ure 18), will explain how the case was satis- factorily managed; the ^i^- 19-— plan or mouitd for trees. dotted lines in the engraving representing the garden surface. From the interior of the garden, hardly any idea of the descent outside, or of the streets themselves, can be gathered, which in this case was desirable, owing to the heavy traffic going on through one of them. Another effective style of surface variation sometimes introduced, consists of one or more mounds .somewhat centrally located, and away from house and boundaries 173 OHSTAMENTAL GARDENING. to be planted with trees and shrubs. The object may be the mere formation of a new style of garden variety, to hide a near approach or some unsightly object. Figure 19 illustrates the idea, A representing the highest point, in this instance crowned with an arbor, and the other letters below, show lower levels downward. Such mounds introduced into grounds where the prevailing character of the surface is even, are more difficult to manage than the boundary mounds, or these against buildings, on account of their standing out in bold relief. The emer- gence of the elevation into the general level should be soft and gradual, a point respecting which too great care cannot be taken. Indeed it requires a great degree of good taste to manage these so they may appear natural. In gardens the surfaces of which are generally even, there is not that absolute necessity to have the grade strictly even over the whole lawn, that many seem to think. Certain gentle variations here and there, and es- pecially if trees and shrubs arc set on the higher points, are in place in almost any grounds. But attention to smooth- ness and finish in minor respects is as much in order in such cases, as if the whole were made uniformly and precisely straight. In larged sized grounds, from an acre upwards, with rare exceptions, a departure from a surface of a gener- ally level character is to be preferred. Of three differ- ent kinds of surface usually to be met, namely : the level, the abruptly hilly, and a mean between these two, the latter is considered the best for making a large area interesting, and abounding in pleasing garden effects. The objection to the plane as a style of surface for a large garden is, that it yields no variety to the eye, in- dependent of what is brought upon it. If strong, bold effects, either in the planting or in undulating the sur- face are desired here, they are from the nature of things very expensive to make. As regards the other extreme, THE SURFACE. 173 a Psiriv may be so entirely composed of large hills, that the very sight of the place, and the thought of following the up and down courses of the paths is enough to tire any but a strong person. With a mean between these two, we have the advantage of variety as afforded by the hills and vales without much inconvenience of ascent and descent. AVhere grounds of this preferred character are to be improved, it is often easy to increase their effectiveness by drawing out some existing features more strongly. A prominence may be added to, at the expense of the val- ley bottom at the side, or one mound removed to increase the .strength of another, or a lake be excavated to the advantage of tlie surroundings. Naturally such im- provements suggest heavy expenses at the outset. But let it be considered that every load of material moved in such operations counts for two, because a depression of one foot here, added to an elevation elsewhere, effects an actual change in both of two feet at the expense of moving one foot of earth. In every fair sized garden, prominent elevations to support shady arbors, and from which to get a bird's eye view of the scenery, and to catch cool breezes in hot weather are worth aiming to secure. For guidance in every kind of mound construction the brief suggestions accompanying figure 19 are in a general way applicable. In earlier times, as many European gardens yet bear evidence, it was thought that pleasure grounds to be beautiful, must present a very artificial appearance. Surfaces that were naturally quite level were so nianaged as to present a series of terraces and slopes. Trees were not only all of them planted in formal lines, but they were by hundreds distorted into outrageous patterns by clipping. The world moves, and landscape gardeners to- day, although not disposed to set aside the old formal style in every case, as a rule insist that the nearer they 17-4 • ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. can keep to nature's ways of using nature's materials, the more pleasing will be the result. What is admired most in nature is the very freedom and informality, which in by-gone times was avoided. In severely formal gar- dens the picture may strike us with delight at first sight, but being unchangeable, we tire of it in time, unless there are counter-balancing features to offset the formality. Where a garden is on a hillside, and the natural con- tour is too abrupt for beauty or convenience, the ter- race and slope arrangement, with stairways in the walks, sometimes come in use to advantage. We recall an admi- rable illustration of the use of this style in the terraces and slopes in the Queen's Park at Glasgow. Partly for con- venience, and partly for eifect in relieving the sameness that would exist in a not very large park, by the pres- ence of too many natural hills, there was contracted a series of these on a large scale, which for their general fitness, simplicity and beauty, are most charming. There is a "well-known and most delightful Italian garden at Wellesley, the estate of H. H. Hunnewell, Esq., near Boston, Mass., constructed at the head of a lake on a steep bluff, which very strikingly shows that in some places a contribution of formal terraces, slopes, clipped trees, balustrades, stairways, and vases may be introduced as a minor feature of an extensive private park, with very pleasing effect. Small plats in towns, or even small public squares, hemmed in with buildings, may, with fountains or other artificial objects, walks, etc., be so essentially artificial in appearance, and strongly in- fluenced by architectural lines, as to very properly ad- mit of considerable formality in the arrangement. The guiding principle in every instance where the making of terraces and slopes is invited, should be to in- troduce them only as objects of embellishment, and where the surroundings show some other features of great bold- ness and strength. They should seem to be secondary THE SURFACE. 175 in importance and effect to something else, be that some- thing buildings, towers, m')nam3:its, prominent hills, or large adjacent areas devoted to a natural style of effects. Terrace and slope combinations s'aould, with rare ex- ceptions, be characterized by a great degree of simplicity in their arrangement. The complicated pretty produc- tions in this line, sometimes met with in old school gar- dens in Europe, are intolerable to every one of correct Fig. 20. — TEKKACE WOKK ADORNED WITH TREKS, SHRUBS, AND FLOWERS. taste. The use of trees and shrubs in different places for balancing the parts and relieving the geometrical lines, is very desirable, provided they are dispersed with taste. Figure 20 shows a simple terrace slope, embel- lished with roses or other shrubs with good effect. There is also shown a row of trees and a line of gerani- ums, or other showy plants, on the level above in front of the balustrade. Such a method of embellishment goes far towards ridding these constructions, of what is 176 OIIXAMENTAL GARDENING. to many persons one of the greatest objections, namely, the prevailing blaukness of the slopes as frequently seen. What is called a Sunken Garden consists of depressed terraces of one or more levels — s(piare, round or other shai)e — constructed lower than the general surface, and meeting with it by some well-formed, easy slopes. On these lower levels flowers, shrubs, vases, fountains and so forth are displayed, all designed to be viewed from above. Sometimes there are walks and stairs leading down to the lower levels. The making of such gardens is recommended only with caution, as rarely can they be made to serve as good a purpose, even for the sake of in- creased variety, as the same area and conditions treated more naturally. I have sometimes em})loyed a style of small terraces retained by a stone coping with good effect, as shown in -vA Tte-ss.^... figure 21. Where some bold object in a town or other ^ M garden seems essential, to W ' " ' =^|| counteract the influence of ~l large buildings, this terrace . .( ,„M4*> .^«»js"' placed in the center of a walk or elsewhere serves a Fiff. 21. — CIRCULAR TERRACE IN A ., mi j. WALK RETAINED BY A STONE gOod l)Urp0Se. i llC CCUtCr ^'°^'^'^'- may support a vase, or piece of statuary placed on a base or a fountain. Properly the ground should bo rountkxl uj) a little towards the object in the center. A bed of brilliant flowers extending around the terrace next to the coping, save a narrow strip of grass between, produces a fine effect. The remainder of the surface should be in grass. Tbere are ways of treating boundary lines and fences often met with in Europe, which might at times be adopt- ed in improving our own grounds. I refer to the plan of contriving to keep the boundary and other fences out of sight, as shovv'u in figures 22 and 2'd. By such means, WALKS AND DRIVES. 177 Jarge outside areas may often l^e aj)i)ropriated in effect, and a garden of a few acres seems to embrace large out- side areas because the boundaries are not visible. Carry- ing with them as they do the idea of being works of art, terraces, and sloi)es of all kinds should be made with ex- actness in their levels, and with as straight lines and Fig. 22 — BOUNDAUY WALL SET OUT OF SIGHT FKOM THE GARDEN. -A SUNKEN CKOSS- FENCE. as true curves as possible, and for the same reason it is necessary to bestow a greater degree of care upon their keeping than is required by most other styles of garden work. Scarcely anything in the way of a garden is more intolerable than the pretentious, formal work, in a state of slovenly neglect. CHAPTER XVL WALKS AND DRIVES. When well located, walks and drives convey the idea of habitableness, imparting an air of welcome and freedom to a home and grounds, and in no slight degree seem to promote the beauty of a place. The most important walks and drives are those at tlie entrance. If these can be laid out, to approach the home or buildings from such a direction, that more than one side of the building will strike the eye at once, it should alwavs be done. Architects ask that a house be ITS OEXAMEXTAL GARDEXINO. thus seen to show it at its best. We should aim to make the first view of a resideucc and grounds as favorable as possible. In places of the smallest size, where the door is near the street, a straight walk is about the only one that can be devised, and so of a drive to the stable. When the door of the house is twenty or more feet from the entrance gate, curves may usually bo introduced by having tlie gate not directly in front of the door, but a little to one side. Such au arrangement tends to keep Fill. ;J4. Fi'i. 25. SHOWING ADVANTAGE OF CtTRVED WALKS AND DRIVES OVER STRAIGHT. the area in front of the house larger, when the walk is set to one side ; as a result, the house shows to better advantage, than if the main front plat were kept smaller by a straight walk encroaching upon it. The house in figure 24, it is at once seen to have a finer setting with a curved apjiroaeh, tlian if tlie part in front of it were to be narrowed by a straight walk, as shown l)y the dotted lines. This principle is also illustrated in figure 25, both in walks and carriage-drives. Although here, by making curved walks, there is one more leading to the house than if they wera str light ; still with th3 foreground thus arranged, the buildings are seen to much better advan- tage over the stretch of Liwn, embellished with trees, shrubs, and flowers (omitted in the engraving), than if the scene v/erc cut up by the hard lines of a straight walk. WALKS AND DRIVES. 179 And the general improvement in the appearance of the grounds is also much better, for instead of increasing tlie angular outlines — strong enough already in the build- ings and boundaries — by making the walks straight, we curve them gracefully, and thus induce variety in the lines. The curves are brought in such a way, that we secure that most desirable of all garden qualities, breadth just where it is most needed, namely: in the foreground of the main building. This simple point is one that ac- counts for much of tliat indescribable difference in places, which makes some appear much finer than others, with the use of about the same advantages and materials in both. But if on the one hand there may be a liability to not employ curves often enough for good effect, on the other J 1 L Fig. 26. Fig. 37. POORLY ARRANGED CURVED WALKS, SKETCHED FROM ACTUAL EXAMPLES. there is danger, when curves are used, of making them ungraceful or indirect, in a way to serve neither beauty or convenience. Figures 26 and 27 illustrate two ex- amjjles of this kind. Tortuous walks like these prove worse than useless in one sense, for there will be a con- stant inclination, if not very frequent practice, to cut across the lot, as indicated by the dotted lines, instead of using the walks. People when they are in hurry, and especially children, have little respect for long, winding, inconvenient curves, introduced for beauty, but in such cases sadly lacking it, because they lack utility. 180 OKNAMENTAL GARDENING, One of tlie best possible remedies for the common trouble of having grass verges walked upon in private and public grounds, is to place the walks just where they are needed, and whether curved or otherwise, let them run as directly from point to point as possil)le, and then to make them of a material comfortable to the foot. It may be stated, however, that should this bad practice be persisted in, a protector made like a croquet arch, only much heavier and larger, and set either lengthwise, or at short distances apart crosswise, along the edge, will effect- ually break it up. In figures 24 and 25 it may be observed that the curves are so direct, graceful, and easy, that there would be no inducement to leave them, for gaining a more direct route from point to point. The drive in figure 25 is curved considerably towards the house it is true, but it is used chiefly for carriages, and under the circumstances this is allowable. A walk or drive of seri^entine form, like the o:ie on the right-hand side of figure 27, is very faulty. Any series of bends closely together like these, showing two bays or projections of about the same size, from any one point aro poor in effect. Every curve should be continuous, and easy to be kept by pedestrian or horse. If the bends are too short, the projections of drives are sure to be shaved by wheels, while weeds will spring up in their inner portions. While, as a rule, walks should never be put down ex- cept where there is a real or apparent need of them, still it is sometimes the case that they may be made to serve largely for adornment. Figure 28 shows a case of this kind of a small garden of square outlines, lying adjacent to a large public building. The plat is skirted in its border by a belt of trees and shrubs, and a conspicuous circular bed of evergreens occiipies a central position. This simple arrangement of neat, well-kept walks, cul: AVALKS AND DRIVES. 181 into the level sward, harmonizes with the stronjr ancrular features that exist in the surroundings — which are, it may he said, too strong to be overcome in effect, by ordi- nary natural arrangements. In this way is found a pleasing kind of ornamentation for tlie place, which it would be hard to ecpial by any otlier means. It should be observed in this case, that the walks are not so prom- inent or so close together, but that they convey the idea of subordination to buildings, trees, grass, and Fig. 28. — WALKS USED FOR EMBELLISHMENT. streets, lience their fitness is easily accounted for. Were the square plats between walks filled with flowers or numerous vases, etc., instead of, as at present, mostly plain grass, the present fine effect would be largely lacking. Where the lawn throughout the grounds is kept closely mowed, so that walking is always comfortable, except in wet weather or during a heavy dew, there is little call for walks besides those leading to and between chief points of interest. Shady grass walks kept well mown, with masses of shrubs and flowers at the sides, are really as pleasurable parts of a garden as can well be provided. Sometimes one or more straight walks, or avenues, are in place in gardens or parks, as for instance along the 182 OEKAMENTAL GARBEKING. top of an extended, formul slope. There are places where such a walk or drive, if following a nice grade and showing its entire length from the end, presents a mag- nificent appearance, especially if there is enough grass at the sides to give it an ample setting ; and trees and flowers are used in abundance some distance back from the edge, to be seen over the intervening grass. AValks or avenues of this character can hardly be considered complete, without some striking objective point near or distant, either real or apparent at each end, such as a building, monument, fountain, or it may be only a piece of statuary, or a large vase. Small objects, like the last Fig. 29. — OBJECTIVE POINTS IN WALKS. named, may be given a suitable setting near the ends of such walks, or at junctions with cross-walks, as shown in figure 29, by placing the object on a low, circular terrace of green sward, retained either by a stone coping, or by turf sloping sharply down to the common level. For smaller and short, straight walks, a tree of striking foli- age or form, or an evergreen clipped into pleasing shape, a flower-bed, arbor, vase, or seat, may serve as a terminal object. Such objects may also, if the walk or avenue be long, be brought in at points, not too close together, along the sides, to break monotony. USE OJF GRASS, TREES, SHRUBS, ETC. 183 As regards width, long, struight walks or drives should be wider than curved ones, because their beauty depends in a measure upon boldness, and this is secured by breadth. Ordinary walks are made anywhere from three feet wide (and sometimes as narrow as two feet), up- wards, according to their place and the size of the garden. Eear private walks may be the narrowest. General garden walks, if curved, may Ije four to six feet wide, and straight approach walks, four to eight feet, while terrace or prin- cipal walks in large pleasure grounds and parks, may be eight to fifteen feet or more in width. Five feet is con- sidered a good width for ordinary purposes. Drives may range all the way from eight to fifty feet or more in width, according to purpose and size of grounds. Ten to fourteen feet for ordinary drives in private grounds, with branches or back drives at eight to ten feet is about right. In large grounds, cemeteries, and parks, twenty to thirty-five feet, are the usual widths of drives. CHAPTER XVII. THE USE AND COMBINATIONS OF GRASS, TREES, SHRUBS, ETC. In natural landscapes the common grasses serve the important purpose of supi)ortiug or affording a setting for other growths. They thus fill a place for which no other plants could serve so well. It would be better for the soil to be clothed with a carpet of green sward and treeless, than to be covered with trees and plants, to the exclusion of grass. Still, the custom that prevails in some places, of having only grass to ornament the grounds, is by no means to be commended, because of the better effect and greater interest attainable, through using some of the endless array of beautiful natural materials 184 OnXAMESTAL GARDEKlNO. at our service, together witli the grasses. Grass to the ground, is as carpets or tiles to a lloor, indispensable in themselves, yet no one considers a room furnished with- out the addition of furniture and decorated walls. Neither should we be content with simply a carpet on our grounds, when handsome leafy furniture is so easily procured. The lawn, to be most satisfactory, should present a green, velvety appearance throughout the season, and this is gained through a suitable condition of the soil, properly stocking it with grass, and attention to mowing, watering, etc. Instructions respecting these matters are given in other parts of this book. A common error in garden arrangement is found, where trees are 2)lanted close and never thinned, causing in time by their shade death to the grass underneath. The only remedy in such a case is the removal of a sufficient number of trees, to admit enough air to supply the wants of the grass. Good lawns will bear considerable shade, and enough trees can remain to afford ample shelter for comfort, and have fine grass besides. For ornamental purposes in roof, and all kinds of archi- tectural gardening, the lawn grasses are undervalued. A good illustration of their utility for such purposes, is seen in a pul)lic roof-garden over the market in Edin- burgh, Scotland, where a large l)ed of grass, or in otlier words a patch of lawn, is employed, along with elaborate flower-beds, all surrounded by low stone copings. While the flowers are more showy, the presence of some cleanly mown grass in such a ])lace tends to form a more perfect whole, than would otherwise be j)ossible. It is upon trees, shrubs, and flowering plants, that we depend for the chief attractions of our jileasnre grounds. No garden can be considered properly furnished without some of these. Imagine our earth robbed of her arboreal beauty, and its ajipearance would be little better than that of a desert. Use of grass, trees, shrubs, etc. 185 Starting out to iiso trees, shrtibs, and flowering 2>lants to embellish our grounds, it is a matter of first impor- tance to gain an ade([uate idea of the kinds and nature of the materials. Ko one can enter upon a full exami- nation of this subject, without being imjjressed with the large number of, and the gi-eat variety in natural and improved growths, suitable for such purposes. In Part 11 may be found lists and descriptions of most kinds of the:-.e that are adapted to the American climate. To compose fine garden effects, we must take into ac- count the prevailing and strongly marked characteristics posGessed by the different materials at hand. I refer more especially to the differences found in the colors, sizes, and forms of foliage and flowers, and the great variety in the habit of growth of different trees and shrubs. As alluded to in Chapter XIII, we have advantages in making beautiful garden scenes, unpossessed by nature, in her most charming compositions, owing to the greatly increased number and beautv of kinds obtained throuofh culture. We find nothing similar to and as strikingly attractive in nature as an improved Purple-leaved Beech, a Cut-leaved Oak, a Variegated Cornelian Cherry, or any of hundreds of other improved trees and shrubs. ."Not only is nature's own ample storehouse at our com- mand, but there are besides a multitude of variations from the best she possesses, that have been obtained through culture. As between the two forms of woody growtli. trees and slinibs, too little regard is yet paid by ])lanters to the great value of the latter class. This is especially the case as regards their eminent fitness for embellishing small grounds. In beauty and diversity of form and foli- age, they equal the larger trees. Most of them, in addition to other merits, produce an abundance of flowers of great beauty and sweetness, and in the difl'erent species, yield 186 0R;N AMENTA L GARDENING. a succession tlirougliont the wliole season, while the ever- green kinds are attractive both summer and winter. As a rule, all the shrubs grow easily, and after transjilanting develop a full measure of beauty in half the time re- quired by trees. With all these qualities, their adapt- ability by nature to the limited areas of the majority of American home gardens, may be added as a leading rec- ommendation of this class. In employing trees and shrubs for ornament, such a selection and arrangement should be aimed at, as will, for the number used, ensure the greatest possible degree of beauty and interest attainable. As we come to the matter of arranging these, we may receive useful lessons from nature. In a study of natural landscapes, it may be observed that trees, shrubs, and plants bear relation to eacli other here, about as follows : First, in the form of groups and thickets; second, in open or somewhat scattered arrangements ; third, as single, isolated specimens ; and then fourth, as being wholly absent in places. If these points are kept in mind when arranging our pleasure grounds, we need not diverge far from a right course in the main features of the work. Indeed, it is the attempt, either unconscious or otherwise, to make a garden by limitation to some one or other uses or non-uses of material as specified, that causes so much unsatisfactory work in this line. Let it bo noted at the outset, that the partly open fea- ture of a lamlscape is most essential, if we would have beautiful gardens. Without tiiis, there can never bo anything but a confused effect, and without it the beauty and dignity of the rich woody and other plants used is also largely lost. The open area affords a field for view- ing the garden-beauty, a space for admitting cool breezes and sunshine; a play-ground for shadows, and then, most important of all, that degree of general repose and breadth, without which no garden can be satisfactory. USE OF GRASS, TREES, SHRUBS, ETC. IS? Next to the open area in giirdens, tlie group easily holds a first jilace, as an eiTeetive means of employing embellishing ])lant material, and has been called the key- note of modern natural gardening. Whether as found in nature, or as it nuiy be formed, the chief merits of the group consists in its boldness; the power gained for aug- menting individual beauty of kinds, by clustering to- Fig. 30. — NATURAL GROaPING OF DECnJTTOUS ANH EVERGREEN TREES ANU SHRUBS. gether of numbers of subjects alike or nearly so, and the picturesqueness which may be created by contrasting groups of one class, with similar groups or marked in- dividuals of other classes, in what may be called com- pound groups. To analyze tbo beauty of natural masses, it may be seen that this conies largely from the peculiar way in wliich ditT^'rent kinds are combined. It may be obseiweil that in such groups individual kinds generally gr^'ntate t ^w^rds one or more centers, with usually a 1^8 ORNAMENTAL GAEDENING. scattering and intermingling of tliese between such group-centers, something as is shown iu figure 30, whicli illustrates a natural arrangement. From tliis largely results the impressive beauty so commonly found in nature, arising from strong individual effects and marked contrasts, as different kinds Idend ■with each other. This principle of minor groups within large groups, should often be adopted in garden arrangements. Under most circumstances a dozen or a hundred trees, shrubs, or plants, if arranged on some such basis, will be pro- ductive of immeasurably better effects than the same scattered about or else mixed promiscuously. The right idea in the garden is, to bring together such kinds as possess contrasting qualities, arranging these group against group, with a scattering of individuals here and there, but all done for making the distinguish- ing and often strongly marked characteristic of one kind, relieve and offset those of others. As shown in the natural group of figure 30, dark Evergreens may offset the Beeches of lighter foliage, Avhile the colored bark has its effect of contrast, or projecting masses of the former stand against the Maples with finely contrasting shrul)s to tlie front. Purple Beeches might be brought in conjunction with the light-coloreil Silver Maples, witli dark-green English Elms near by for heavy effect. Some AYeeping Willows along tlie margin of water, may be backed by a few spiry Lombardy Poplars ; pyramidal Spruces, clustered with trees having low, round heads, and so on. In shrubs, the small-leaved Privet, or cut-leaved Elder, could go against the large-leaved Viburnums or Weigelas, or we might use the light-green Thunberg's Spiraea, next to the dark-leaved Japan Quince, with the Virginia Fringe, with its large foliage at the back. The pure white flowers of Thunberg's Spiraea also contrast well USE OF GKAS5, TREES, SHRUBS, ETC. 189 with tlie Lrilliaut scirlet of the quince flowers, both coming in together. Beautiful effects spring from com- bining differently tinted species and varieties of the same genus, for instance: the light and dark Spruces, Pines, and otiiers, may be contrasted with one another, and so on with other different kinds indefinitely. In the matter of general style and location of groups, it is obvious, as we consider the importance of retaining certain open stretches of lawn, that as a rule the masses must, in all small jjlaces, be set along the margins of the grass plat, keeping the center open. But such arrangements correspond in priiicii)le with nature's most effective groupings. The most delightful Fig. 31. — ARRANGEMENT OF TREES, SHRUBS, AND FLOWERS, THE LETTERS INDICATING THE KINDS. natural landscapes show open vistas, skirted by margins of woody growth, either near or distant, which limit and sujiport the former. On the lajdng out of marginal borders, some attention has been given in Chapter XV, as illustrated by figures 13 to 18. Figure 31, illustrating a section of such a border, shows the method of arranging the different materials, In this figure it may be noticed that the outside line of woody growths is less regular than that of the border 190 ORNAMENTAL GARDEXING. margins, and the S2)acos between are filled with hardy flowering plants. While the grouping of trees and shrubs, and herba- ceous phmts in marginal borders finds a wide adaptal)ility, it is of special value in embellishing small gardens, even the very smallest. There are numerous shrubs, both deciduous and ever- green, that are liighly ornamental, bub which seldom grow more than a few feet high (see figure 1 and explana- tions), that are ordinarily adapted for creating bold and pleasing effects in the smallest grounds by properly grouping them. With the use of these, striking effects may be secured in tiie planting, to give a fine setting to the architecture of the place, whatever the style of this may be. They should be massed somewhat closely, al- ways taking future size into account in marginal borders, and also next to the house as before alluded to. Then if there is room, one or two shade trees of moderate size may also be set in some part of the open area. By such means it is possible to secure, even in small gardens, about every feature that enters into the most extensive natural landscape, and with i)roportionally as good an effect. In pleasure grounds of larger size, there is increased scope for introducing variety both as to the style of the groups and their materials. Here Ave may have a larger selection of kinds, for the increased space also allows the nse of larger growers. In grounds of the largest size, trees and shrubs of every kind and size may be admitted, and here tlie most varied effects, from very delicate to bold, are possiljle. In all fair-sized places, the boundary masses may jut inwards to a considerable distance here and there, and some isolated clumps be introduced for creating minor vistas. Views opening to the longest possible distance in some directions, and then broken by projections and masses in others, hiding some parts of the grounds, pro- USE OF GEA.SS, TREES, SHRUBS, ETC. 191 duce some of the most desirable effects that can lie at- tained in landscape gardening. It is a special merit of the grouping system, that it tends to give an enlarged idea of the size of the place. Grounds with the boun- dary shut off l)y masses, and these arranged with irregular outlines, will look larger than they would if the boun- dary line were plainly in sight. Figure 32 illustrates an irregular group upon the lawn. This form and arrangement is adapted to trees Fig. 33. — GROUPING OF LARGE AND SMALL GROWTHS. or shrubs of any size, l)ut especially to the formation of a thicket with small shrubs. It is usually the case that, no matter how few trees, shrubs, or plants may be employed in any place, they will be more effeciive if brought together in groups. Three, four, or six, for instance, will serve a better pur- pose thus treated, than if set in a row or scattered as far apart as possible. Figure 33 shows some different ways of arranging a small number of shrubs in groups, and these will readily suggest the making of groups of a larger or smaller number. It may be said that Roses, Rhododendrons, Paeonies, and many other things, should hardly ever he used in any other way than in masses. In all work of grouping, a leading aim should be to 192 OKN A MENTAL GARDENING. invest the compositions with an air of grace and freedom. This is a point which the inexperienced would do Avell to heed, for it is easy to fail right liere. In nature, bushes and trees, herbs and shrubs, blend together in the freest manner, wliile the edges of the group commonly round off with exquisite finish; a good example which we should strive to imitate. Where a beautiful garden fronts on a pnblic highway, it is as commendable in the owner to allow passers on the street to get glimpses of tlie interior, as it is to have Fig. 33. —DIFFERENT WATS OF ARRANGING A SMALL NUMBER OF PLANTS. thought of the effect of a fine house upon a neighbor- hood. But then a garden is designed chiefly for the pleasure of tlie owner's family and friends, and he likes to enjoy it in seclusion. It is a'luxury to sit at ease, or swing in a hammock on a summer's day, and drink in the sights, sounds, and perfumes peculiar to a garden, without fear of interruption, and this seclusion should be provided for. Figure 34 shows how masses may be set so as to give the public some benefit of a garden, and yet render portions of it secluded. By grouping, complete effects may be produced more quickly than in any other manner of planting. Whether dealing with trees or shrubs. we_ may plant very thickly at the start, by using at fir^t twice or three times as USE OF GRASS, TRLEH, SHRUBS, ETC. 193 many shrubs of each kind as will finally be needed, or else by locating the choicer and long-enduring kinds at distances that will accommodate their increase for many years, and then fill out more or less between these Avith some of the cheap kinds of ra])id growth, whicli are at the same time very handsome. The extra shrubs in both cases to be removed as the others demand the space. In this way masses will bo made to look solid and complete immediately after setting. The planting of trees and shrnbs in groups affords the means of promoting rapid development and beauty. Tlie ground under them may, in fact, ought to be, for some Fig. 34. — PLANTrNG FOR BOTH OPENNESS AND SECLUSION. years at least, kept cultivated, and if this is well done and an application of manure be made occasionally, they will reach a large size in half the time they would if stand- ing in the grass. Tlien, too, we may feel safe against summer drouths, if conveniences for watering are not at hand, for in such cultivated borders trees suffer little from dryness in the severest seasons of drouth. Clumps are desirable for breaking the transitions from terrace banks to natural slopes, and in other wa3^s to rec- oncile discrepancies in the surface. They may also well be introduced for breaking the outlines of garden or foundation walls, or for hiding unsightly objects. 9 194 ORXAMEXTAL GAKl/iiNING. The gain that comes from massing evergreens and other trees in a way to shelter the grounds and buildings, is worth considering. It is really surprising to see what ctfect Spruces, Pines, Hemlocks, etc., planted freely in the direction of prevailing winds ha?, both on the com- fort of the home in winter, and on the ability of many choice kinds of trees and shrubs to withstand the severity o. the cold ; these, if exposed, would die outright. By thus giving shelter, the number of kinds of trees that will thrive in the North is greatly increased. ]\Iany of our beautiful native trees and shrubs, that in their wild state thrive iu the shelter of forests, are erroneously called tender in the North, simply because they will not succeed in the absence of the shelter of trees. From the close grouping it is but a short step to the open or scattered arrangement in planting. A type of this style is to be found in an open, light, and breezy grove, where there is almost as much of sunshine as of shade. This style may often be brought in as the termination of one or more points of closer groups, and in gardening the two may often be closely associated. While irregularity and rugged picturesqueness easily become characteristics of the close group, a different form of beauty, embracing greater gentleness, marks the scattering system, for in this, each tree or plant is allowed to more fully develop its individual beauty and form. Most of the instruc- tion and ideas advanced, and illustrations given, respect- ing ordinary groupings are, however, applicable to the open groups, by merely making allowance for the peculiarities of each member as regards compactness and openness. The scattered cluster is not so well adapted to small gardens as is the closer group, because its characteristic beauty depends largely upon ample space, yet by confin- ing the selections to the smaller growing kinds, very complete effects are attainable by this pleasing system, even in a limited space. Figure do shows some of the USE OF GRASS, TREES, SHRUBS, ETC. 195 smaller growing Pines, Yucca filamentosa, and Deutzia gracilis, the latter kept clii)ped to a rounded form, ar- ranged in this style on a lawn. Where there are mounds, a scattering of either ever- greens or deciduous shrubs in open clumps over conspicu- ous slopes is proper. It is the free scattering of Juni- pers and Firs over the mountain sides skirting the Hudson Eiver, in some places, that lends to the scenery it great charm. A rise in the garden may support half a dozen Fig. 35. — SCATTERINGS OF DWARF PINES, TUCCAS, AND DEUTZIA GRACILIS IN CITY LAWNS. or more Savins or other evergreens, or some })lants of striking foliage like tlie Wild Olive or Weigela, planted near the crown, and in this way produce a good effect. At the edge of an cibrupt bluff may be placed two or three Camperdown Elms or other bold weeping trees. Such kinds as love moisture, like the Willows and Alders may be effectively disposed by planting in similar clumps along the water's edge or in low places. Where it is desiral)le to plant trees along the sides of long garden walks and avenues, for shade, scattering them along in-o^-ilarly, allowing some complete breaks here 196 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. and there, will produce a better effect than to make formal lines with the trees at uniform distances apart. There is a strikino; illustration of this in the strong con- trast afforded between the irregularly wooded north drives in Hyde Park, London, where along the sides for miles the trees are arranged in scattered groups, and similar avenues in other parks with formal lines of trees at their sides. The same idea is true generally of trees to be planted along the boundaries of large grounds. They will create a mucn better effect if grouped openly, as in figure 36, than if set, as is often done, in a straight Fig. 36. — PLANTING ON BOUNDARIES AND MOUNDS. line. It is seldom indeed the case, anywhere outside of narrow stieets, that formal lines might not well give way to informal scattering clusters. Throughout the grounds, open groups of large trees may jut out from heavy marginal plantations, or occupy places by themselves surrounded by the open lawn, or they may be in some parts brought in to form groves. Near the junctions of walks and drives, or in bends of these, are also suitable places for trees thus disposed. But the open grouping system of planting should never be confounded with the faulty " dot-a-tree-every where " system sometimes met with, and in which such essential garden features as open areas and vistas seem to never have been even thought of by the planters. The planting of trees, shrubs, etc., as isolated speci- mens, either singly or two or three near each other, is often desirable. It may be observed that in nature isolated specimens generally are, in effect, subordinate to masses USE OP GRASS, TREES, SURDBS, ETC. 197 either near, as if broken away from them, or farther off. Usually they occupy a place somewhat central, with masses skirting the horizon around, and it will be safe to have regard to this point in similarly bringing trees and shrubs into our gardens. In selecting single specimens we should be governed by the size of the grounds to be planted. An Oak makes a grand tree for a large garden, but a Kilmarnock or Rosemary-leaved Willow would be more suitable for a small town lot, while the effect of one of the latter would be almost lost in the larger area. A few Austrian or White Pines make a splendid show in Fig. 37. — ILLUSTKATINfi THE ERROR OF NOT TAKING FUTURE GROWTH INTO CONSIDEKATION. a roomy cemetery, or any place of broad area, but the small Junipers, Spruces, or Mahonias are greatly prefer- able for small gi'ounds. Some of the most common mis- takes in choosing trees is in such unsuitable selections. We often see young trees, and evergreens particularly, of strong growing kinds, planted so near to walks or build- ings that after some years they encroach upon them, and for the sake of room have to be mutilated by severe cut- ting, impairing their b3auty forever. An illustration of this mistake is shown in figure 37, where the size of the 198 ORKAMENTAL GARDENING. trees, as they appeared at planting and their size fifteen years later is outlined. Such a condition of things is de- plorable, because wholly without adequate remedy, and of course owes its origin to the fact, that the planter only considered the beauty and the size of the tree at planting, and not its appearance in later years. The classification of trees according to the size they reach at maturity, as explained in connection with figure I, and the letters throughout the description in Part II, will help one to a right idea of the size of trees and shrubs. As a rule, no tree properly belongs in grounds that are too small to admit of its full development oi which will intrude too much upon space when full grown. In some places where planting is done for shade, an error is sesn in the setting of not only larger growers than were needed for the place, but so many of them as to defeat the very idea of comfortable shade, by shutting out the access of cool breezes and retaining the heat of the sun's rays that may penetrate here and there. What is wanted in our hot climate, is not so much excessive shade, as open shade that allows the air to circulate freely tlirougli and under the trees. The character of trees has something to do with their forming a comforta- ble shade. For example, the shade of open-headed Silver Maples, Willows, Walnut, etc., is cooler than that of dense, close-headed kinds, for the simple reason that the heads of the former cause but a slight barrier to the entrance of cool breezes underneath. As distinct means for increasing variety, the forming of Shrubbery- walks. Rosaries, Pinetums, etc., may be mentioned. These, as their names would imply, consist of a collection of members of the same family, or style of growth, so arranged as to facilitate the study of them and to develop the beauty that springs from bringing to- gether in numbers the different species of the same family. CLIMBERS AND THEIK USES. 199 In everything pertaining to tlie arrangment of trees, shrubs and plants, there is room for the exercise of a great deal of knowledge, taste and skill. As canvas, brushes and paints do not in themselves make the paint- er, so it cannot be expected that inexperience and lack of close acquaintance Avith kinds, will accomplish as good results in garden arrangnient as arise from the labors of the trained arboriculturist and landscape gardener. Still, where the number to bo planted is limited, and close attention is given to selections, being guided by descrip- tions, and tlien with pro^jer forethought as to the arrange- ment, there need be little fear of really bad results. CHAPTER XVIII. CLIMBERS AND THEIR USES. The value of the climbing and twining plants is en- titled to higher appreciation than it now receives from Americans. In Europe they are used more freely than with us. The adaptability of the hardy Ivy to the Eu- ropean climate, and its common use for ages, for mant- ling the walls of castles and kirks, may have had much to do with cultivating in Europeans a love for climbers. The Ivy, however, is by no means used exclusively abroad. As a climber of free habits, our own Virginia Creeper seems to find preference over it for most ordi- nary purposes, and in many resj^ects it is greatly its superior. The adaptability of climbers is perhaps without equal among plants. Karely can a ])uilding be found, even in the heart of a city, and where there is no room for shrubs or grass, that may not be gracefully adorned with 200 ORNAMEisTAL GARDENING. the verduro and flowers of one or another of these. They are inexpensive as regards first cost, of easy and rapid growth, adapted to a great variety of soils, and as appro- Fig. 38. — FENCE AND GATE POSTS COVERED BY CLIMBERS. priate for decorating a laborer's cottage as the mansion of the millionaire. Figure 38 represents a fence and gate posts covered with climbers. For such a purpose, the Virginian Creep- Fig. 39.— SMALL CITY COTTAGE FRONT COVERED WITH CREEPERS. er is as well adapted in America as any, and with atten- tion to pinching and training, may be made to serve most admirably. CLIMBERS AND THEIR USES. 201 Figure 39 shows a small cottage, one of a row with a free growing climber running over its front. The beau- tiful manner in which the Virginia Creeper, if thus used, may be made to partially curtain the windows is de- lightful; no better illustration of the value of plant life in making a town or any other home attractive can be found, than in such a use of climbers. By means of one or two plants, a blank house front is converted into a scene of interest and beauty that at once attracts the eye of every passer. How readily beauty of this kind is at- M Fig. 40. — SETTING OF GKEEN FOK Fig. 41. — BASE OF BAT WINDOW AND BAY WINDOW. PROJECTION COVERED WITH LONICEKA. tainable, and what a wonderful influence for good would be exerted by its general prevalence throughout our cities, especially in portions where the poorer classes reside. Figures 40 and 41 show two bay windows decorated with climbers, each different as regards shape of windows, kind of plant and form of training. Figure 42 shows the end wall of a house with bay window, where climb- 203 ORKAMENTAL GARDENING. ers, shrubs and flowers are used to make a pretty garden picture, whether as seen from without or within. For this purpose the climbers may be Wistaria, Cehistrus, Virginia Creeper, or other free growers with Weigela, Japan Quince, Reeves's Spiraea, or other shrubs of shapely growth and good foliage ; and Geraniums, Ooleus, and similar bright plants between the shrubs. The climbers may be used to good advantage in con- nection with trees in several ways. Sometimes very picturesque combinations are met in nature, which are worthy of imitation in the garden. Trees fifteen to Fis:. 43.— SHRtTBS, FLOWERS, AND CLIMBERS ABOUT A BAY WINDOW. Fig. 43.- -VERANDA COVERED WITH CELASTRUS. twenty feet high may be so covered and weighed down with Virginia Creeper or the Wild Grape, as to form per- fect arbors of green, the branches falling in garlands to the ground. Nothing can be more delightful than such natural arbors. If a tree is of considerable size when such a climber is planted at the root, little harm to it can arise from the combination. A strong plant of the Dutchman's Pipe, or the Virginia Creeper running up one tree trunk about ten feet high, and then carried in a festoon across to anotlier tree, veranda, or some other object near by, makes a novel and CLIMBERS AND TEEIR USES. 203 pleasing object in a garden. A wire must be stretched across from tree to tree to support the vine at first. Tlie value of climbers for covering arbors, verandas, and the like is generally known. Figure 43 represents a veranda wreathed with Celastrus for which particular purpose there can be no better plant. The effect is best in such places if the branches are trained along in one line near the edge of the roof. For adorning all kinds of arbors and similar structures, the climbers are well fitted. If a simple, light, frame-work trellis of any d^- Fig. 44. — PLAN FOR AKBOK OVER A GARDEN SEAT. sired form is made, somewhat after tlie plan shown in figure 44, and climbers be planted to run over it, the affair will l)e so completely covered in time, that nothing but the green will show, and an exceedingly pretty, cheap, and complete shelter from the sun will be the result. It is often desirable to have a screen of climbers over some portions of the side of a veranda for protection from the sun. A neat and cheap trellis to support the vine, may be made of No. 13 or 14 wire, by putting a row of common screw eyes, such as can l)e bought at hardware stores, at six or eight inches apart along the 204 ORNAMENTAL GARDEKING. upper and lower lines of the space to be covered, and then running wire between them, top and bottom ob- liquely to form diamond shaped interstices. Where they strike the posts, eyes must be put in to fasten the wires, they may then be bound together at points of crossing, strengthening the whole. A rather better contrivance with the wires crimped to prevent them slipping where crossed and the ends attached to a frame work of iron rod, shaped to fit the space, may with some increased ex- pense be purchased of wire workers. Screens to serve as fences may be made in a similar way, by running the wires from top to bottom rails sup- ported by posts. These made to take the place of fences or hedges, around divisions of the garden, prove very at- tractive when covered with vines. Figure 45 shows a screen of this character with an archway carried over the walk, and all covered with one or two climbers. For such pur- poses nothing can be superior to that valuable and common climber, the Virginia Creeper. For the sake of variety, how- ever, the Flowering Honey- suckles, Clematis, Wistaria, or others may also be used. A use to which climbers may be put in many gardens is represented by figure 40. Light posts of any hight, from eighteen inches upwards, may be set in line and connected by a wire running from one to another through the posts near the top. By keeping up a nar- row border on the line of the posts, and planting a climb- er at each, the whole structure will become beautifully covered in time. A line of this kind at the edge of a terrace in place of a balustrade, proves pleasing and in- expensive. A dead tree trunk, an oak post ten or twelve feet high. Fig. 45. — SCREEN OF VINES, WITH AUCHWAY. CLIMBERS AND TUEIR USES. 205 or a large boulder covered over with free growing climl)crs are handsome objects in gardens. Honeysuckles or other climbers may be made to form handsome altars of green and flowers in the lawn, if five or six stakes arc put about the plants, say four feet high, surrounding them with about three hoops at equal distances and allowing the vine to cover theni. If the Gold-Netted Honeysuckle be used it will give a splendid golden effect. Other forms of trellis may also be used similarly for adorning lawns. ]\Iantles and festoons of greenery over walls, railiiigs, bridges, arbors, and the buildings generally, are so pleas- Fig. 46. — POSTS WITH GARLANDS BETWEEN. ing to the eye that the use of climbers should be very common. Plants of trailing habit, such as Periwinkle, Ivy and prostrate Junipers, are useful as edgings to i^lats of grass or shrubbery groups, or the former for covering terrace banks, shady places against buildings, or under trees where nothing else will grow. Single lines of Periwinkle or Ivy, a foot or more wide between walks and the lawn, are effective, as there is a pleasing contrast between the dark-gre-3n foliage of the former, and the lighter green of the grass. With a little attention to trimming, either of these plants may be made to form a shapely rounded line. The Gold-netted Honeysuckle may also be thus used, and in that case the color is much lighter than that of the srrass. 20G ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. CHAPTEE XIX. FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL PLANTS. The effectiveness of hardy perennial or annual flower- ing plants in the garden depends, as with woody plants, mnch npon their position and arrangement. In the nat- ural style of garden making, the front parts of tree and shrubbery borders, as well as in the midst of these, in the bare spaces, are suitable places for these or flowers of every kind. Some lines of V)right annuals, or low, hardy, variegated grass, or any other low growing plants that are suitable for edging, may be placed next to the grass, while in the bays of the shrubbery line, and also further back, showy, hardy plants, bulbs, bright, seed-grown things, as well as tender, perpetual blooming flowers may be set. There are many little hardy flowers that thrive directly under the shade of shrubs, and some of these may be introduced to become naturalized in such places. All kinds may be grouped promiscuously, or for the sake of variety in some places, be arranged in lines lengthwise or in any other direction. Combinations of different classes of ornamental plants may easily be so managed in borders, as to render them very attractive in flowers and foliage from early spring until freezing weather in the fall. Different borders and beds on the same ground may be ])lanned to differ in arrangement and style of expression. Even if the free-flowering, tender plants that must be newly bedded each year, were omitted from these collections, a selection of hardy plants alone could be employed, that would, together with flowering shrubs, never allow the beds to be without flowers or attractive- ness during the growing season. In the use of seed-grown plants in such places, or in any place, if the massing plan were more generally ob- FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL PLANTS. 207 served in setting tliem, these flowers would have a better reputation in fine gardens. Candytuft, Clarkia, Erysi- mum, and all kinds, in fact, if sown in round, triangu- lar, or other shaped drills, the ends of which meet, and about eighteen inches or upwards across, so as to form a clum|T of foliage and flowers when grown, jirove, as a rule, much finer than the same 2)lants scattered in drib- lets too small to make an impression. The more common use of the many attractive hardy flowers, is recommended in every kind of ornamental gardening. Admitting that there is something of a lack in the constancy of bloom afforded, as compared with the tender bedders, it should be remembered that they are inexpensive to get at the start, and once planted are al- most as permanent as Oak trees, growing and increasing indefinitely. They come up each spring with little care, many of them are unequalled for beauty, and selections can be made that will, by succession, afford in different kinds a constant show of flowers during the summer season. Some of this class are very tine if arranged, in clum})s, either alone, or several kinds together on the lawn. Lily of the Valley, Plantain Lilies, Crocus, Col- chicums. Yuccas, Pampas, and other grasses, Pa^onies and some others possessing attractive flowers and foliage are effective when so planted. The more formal style of arranging flowers and jilants -sometimes called carpet bedding — in which mostly tender kinds, such as are planted anew every spring, and produce richly colored flowers or foliage, are used, is a very effective as well as po]nilar means of embellish- ing pleasure grounds. Bright flowers and showy foliage, if brougiit together in tasteful designs, with regard for harmony and contrasts, are susceptible of producing most attractive results. Some excellent and elaborate work in this line is now to be seen everywhere in gardens both private and public, 208 ORXAMENTAL GAUDEXIXG. as well as in cemeteries. The managers of Lincoln Park, Chicago, and in Battersea Park, London, England, easily take the lead in this style of adornment, and the disjjlay now annually made in each of these, as well as in some other parks that could be named, would be difficult to excel. That these embellishments are in the main well conceived and find appreciation from the public is easily seen in the fact, that in these parks, Avliich abound in a variety of interesting garden and other features — the former both in the natural and other styles — the parts devoted to these showy arrangements of flowers r.re those among all comj)eting ones in interest, that are the most constantly thronged by admirers. I am well aware tliat some advocates of a strictly nat- ural style of garden making, jn-onounce against the bedding or massing system as being wrong both in prin- ciple and taste. But it will be difficult to ever educate the people to have none of it, for that it has a legitimate place in the ornamentation of grounds is obvious to most gardeners and other persons. When the mass of the people may be brought to see that there is more real beauty in the coarse primitive Zinnia, Balsam, or Iris, tliau in the splendid improvements on these that have been accomplished by art, then they may also learn to despise art in the arrangement of flowers. And as to the use of geometrical lines and outlines, delicate tints and rich colors combined in contrasts, where can be found more suggestive examples, in such arrangements, than in nature's own work-shop, in the mutiplicity of such forms and combinations as are everywhere in the flowers, fruits and foliage of the vegetable kingdom. That disagreeable effects often do arise in this, as in other uses of flowers, is very true, but a chief cause for this, it should l)e understood, comes from disregard- ing the true relation of flowers and plants in such ar- rangments to garden scenery generally. It should be re- FLOTVERIXG AND ORXAMENTAL PLANTS. 209 meml)ere(l tliat the sphere of such a style of oruanienta- tiou is in the line of what has elsewhere been termed minor embellishments, hence it follows, that the use of striking aud fanciful compositions like these must be limited accordingly. If nature shows many fanciful forms, and varied colors in her attractive flowers, she also teaches by example, that these in order to be most beautiful need an appropriate setting, hence we find every flower usually borne above or brought in close conjunction Avith masses of foliage, which give it needed relief. So too, diamonds and rich ribbons in dress, are only used with their full power for conveying pleasure to the eye, when they find an appropriate setting in con- nection with something that possesses less capacity for ornamentation. Mr. De Vry's great success in using flowers and plants i.i the Chicago Park, lies largely in the fact, that al- though a multitude of beds are filled, they are so seated on ample areas of lawn, and these skirted by trees, that notwithstanding their abundance, they seem only to richly embellish the parts where they are introduced. In marked contrast with his success, is a conspicuous flower garden annually made in the West End Park of Glasgow, Scotland. Here is a garden of flowers instead of a gar- den (or a part of it) embellished with flowers. The ar- rangement consists of a circular plat, one hundred and thirty feet across, bounded by a gravel walk, and divided by others into about fifty different sized flower beds, which are closely planted, and there is little or noth- ing else besides. The entire absence of grass and other features that deserve to be termed major features of adornment, the numerous walks and the sameness that exists in the form of the beds, all serve to produce a very weak effect, with a great abundance of very excellent plant material. In a public garden near Xew York, I met recently a 210 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. marked example of the misuse of flowers in embellishing grounds as shown in figure 47. The beauty of a conspic- uous but not large plat was almost destroyed, and at large cost, by immense, lung, glaring masses of a single color SSKV'.V'i^S Fig. 47. — TOO MANY FLOWERS FOR GOOD EFFECT. of geranium, with only the relief of a few lines of other plants at the edge. Figure 48 shows the improvement of which the same spot was susceptible, if less than one-fourth as many plants had been used, but on the principle of employing them as minor features in the adornment, with a corres- Fig. 48. — THE SAME PLAT WITH FEWER FLOWERS. ponding increase of grass, and the former arranged by introducing a little pleasing variety into the designs. Let bright flowers and plants be used in j^lanting the garden, being guided by the same principle upon which growing flowers or plants are set to be surrounded and supported by a profusion of foliage, or that which gov- FLOWEEIITG!- AND ORNAMENTAL PLANTS. 311 crns tlio tiiitefal use of ornaments in dress, never using them in excess. Thus employed, whether the ground to ho emhellislicd is ;i square rod or many acres, there will be little room for complaiut of tlie formal style of Fig. 49. Fig. 50. SMALL BEDS CUT IN Fiff. 52. arrangement, provided the designs after which the flow- ers are planted be in themselves good and tasteful. The character of the designs which are followed in setting out plants in formal or geometric bedding has Fig. 53. Fig. 54. Fig. 55. Fig. 56. Fig. 57. LARGE CIKCULAB BEDS IN A LAWN. Flii. 58. much to do with their beauty. In the accompanying engraving are shown numerous tasteful plans, which may serve as a guide in this kind of work. Figures 49 2'rZ OIINAMEJSTAL GARDENING. to 52 sliow four beds of irregular outline, suitable for j)lantiiig with different kinds or colors as indicated by dotted lines, or the same shaped beds may be planted with a single kind. If such beds of any desired size, say from four to eight feet across, are cut into the lawn, and planted with Coleus, Geraniums, Cannas, Alternan- theras, or other showy plants, they will be very pleasing. For larger beds of circular outline, from ten to twenty foot across, the designs from figures 53 to 58 are any of them handsome for garden lawns, if well planted with a good selection of kinds. The central figures alone of several of these might be laid out in the lawn, depending on the grass for ground work with capital effect. Two beds of oval shape are shown in figures 59 and (jO. In some places such a form is re(piired in preference to Fig. 59. Fig. 60. ELABORATE BEDS OF OVAL FORM. tbe round. The various designs here given may be the means of suggesting others to the inventive mind. I have not taken space to illustrate plain circles, stars, crescents, squares, triangles, and other simple designs, all of which look attractive in the lawn, and are easily made by any one. In all cases, whatever designs are used, let them be quite simple. While it is easy to draught an elaborate plan that will be satisfactory in pen or pencil marks upon jiaper, the same might be very difficult to work out in plants. FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL PLANTS. 213 PLANTS FOR CARPET BEDS. In choosing these, those of contrasting colors should be brought together. The parts appearing dark arul lighter in the engravings, just given, will readily suggest how colors may be used in different parts. No precise rule, however, can be laid down for this, and variations without end are allowable if made with good taste. Where a hight of nine inches and upwards of a solid mass of color is desired, the Coleus, Achyranthes, Ge- ranium, Centaurea, Variegated Stevia, Gnaphalium, Abutilon Thompsoni, aud so forth, are among the best that can be used. When plants of a lower growth are desired, say from four to eight inches, the following are suitable : Alternantheras, Golden-Feather Pyrethrunis, Variegated Thyme of several kinds, Alyssum in vSeveral varieties, Lobelia, Dwarf Ageratum, Cigar plant (CNphea) and Golden and Silver-edged Geraniums. For forming a low carpet, Othonna sedifolia {rrassi- fulia of some). Dew Plant {MesembrycDithenium) in two varieties, Echeveria {Cotyledon) secunda glauca, Pik-a serpyllifolia. Moneywort, Leucophyton, the prostrate Sedums, all of low-trailing habit, rarely growing more than two inches high, are the most valuable. For low edgings the Alternantheras, Thymes, Alys- sums. Golden Feather, Leucophytoii, Echeverias and others are suitable. Sometimes these kinds are used in beds like those of figures 58 and 59, and also others for making single lines or to mark divisions through plants of low growth. For the center of beds, or to place at points in the de- sign, the Agaves, Echeverias, Yuccas, Dracenas, Palms, etc., may be used, while something taller yet to occupy a space in the middle of beds is found in Caladiums, Cannas, Ricinus, Striped Maize, and others. 214 ORlfAMENTAL GARDENING. RAISED GEOMETRIC BEDS. The modern style of raised geometric beds, one of which is represented by figure 61, are ornamental in the highest degree when well designed aud planted and prop- erly cared for. The one shown in the engraving, sketched in Mt. Aubnrn Cemetery, near Boston, was about two and a half feet high at the foot of tlie plant vase, and all parts of it thickly planted with Echeverias, Othonua, Uraceuas, Sedums and a few other low plants. Fig. 01. — AN ELABOKATE, ELEVATED BED. The graceful outlines and excellent proportions, the slopes and surfaces of various forms and angles, and the contrast between delicate colors, shown in the com- positions, together contributed to an effect at once quietly pleasing, rich and beautiful. There is no limit to the variety and pleasing effects that may be secured in this style, in designs marked either by simplicity or by ehvl>oration. A very simple, yet effective form, consists of a series of circular terraces placed stair-like, one above another, each a foot high with the bottom one eight, the next six and a half, then five feet, three and a half and two feet across re- spectively, with a large Draeena or Agave at the top, crowning all. The level parts planted with Alternan- theras, and the almost perpendicular slopes with Ecbe- yerias, produce a very fine result. FLOWERING AXD ORXAMENTAL PLANTS. 215 In a still more simple style, the bed is raised six inches or more above the common surface, with an abruptly sloping edge. The surface of the bed is occupied as any ordinary bed, while the slope may be planted with Eche- verias or other plants that lie close to the ground. If the o Fig. 63. — BESIGNS FOR CORNERS. Fig. 63.— SECTION OF RIBBON BORDER. slope is covered with grass kept nicely clipped, instead of Echeverias, etc., the effect is also good. The outline of such beds may be of any other form than circular, such as a star, crescent, oval, etc. DESIGNS FOR CORNERS AND BORDERS. Figure 62 represents two design.- of flower beds for the corners formed by the intersections of walks or drives at right angles; where two corners directly opposite are to be thus occupied, the same design ought to be used in both. Figure 03 shows a section of border in the ribbon style. Commencing with line a, low plants are used, and with this the hight is increased with each letter, ^ ^^ and the d may contain the highest plants, from this they decrease in size, and those in g and a being alike in hight. The effect of a long border of this kind is very striking. A scroll pattern for a border iiffure 64. Fig.64. — PORTION OF SCROLL BORDER. ic shown in 216 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. A beautiful narrow border in an arabesque arrangement, all the plants of which should be fine, low-growing kinds, is shown in figure 65. In carrying out any of the de- signs given, it is hardly possible in transferring the pat- tern to the ground to take too great pains with all lines, to have them of proper shape and in graceful curves. Beds are often seen which were intended to be copies of Eig. 65.— ARABESQUE PATTEUN IN PAKT FOti BOKDEK. excellent patterns, but the work of laying out and plant- ing was done in such an inferior manner as to deprive it wholly of its due effect. LOCATION OF FLOWER BEDS. The placing of flower beds should al- ways be decided upon with care. It is as necessary to liave regard to the general effect of a bed on the garden as to having it show well on its own account. The centre of a principal grass plat to many first suggests itself as being the most suitable place of all for beds, when in fact it is the very place not to be cut into, if we would preserve that most essential of all features in a garden, un- imiDaired breadth and openness of lawn. Place them rather towards the end or sides. Indentures in shrubbery borders as shown in figure 66, afford good posi- tions for them. It is well, when grading the grounds, to have some FLOWERING ANI) ORISrAMENTAL PfANTS. 217 such points as these made slightly elevated, or mound- like, expressly for accommodating showy flower-beds. In this way a desirable degree of boldness may be secured, while the means by which it was acquired would ordinarily escape detection. But be careful not to make such ele- vations too high, else they may appear unnatural. The Parisians have a pleasing mode of using flowers in decorating their lawns worth noticing. It consists of running a narrow border several feet in from the edge of grass plats, on four sides, with some openings to the centre, as shown in figure G7. These borders are usually from three to six feet wide, with the plants arranged t ^^M^7M'S-jF§M t^^^mJJ^^^^^ iJ^t^^g/^MSlI [MMsM&M^M. Fig. 67. — FRENCH METHOD OF ADORNING LAWNS. in the mixed irregular style and quite uncrowded, with usually an edging of some bright low plants. It is a charming style, and the effect is largely due to preserving an ample central plat of grass. A ])leasing feature is the introduction of some handsome shrubs, along the centre of the borders at equal distances apart. Altogether the arrangement is satisfactory to the eye, and worthy of adoption in our gardens when of sufficient area. 10 ^IS ■ OENAjIEKTAL GARDEKIlsrG. SUB-TROPICAL GARDENS. Sub-ti'opical gardens are those in which tropical and sub-tropical plants of showy foliage, like the Palms, Cycas, Dracenas, Agaves, and many others, or else kinds of a different nature that bear some resemblance to these, or both, are used with a view to introducing some of the picturesqueness of tropical vegetation into the gardens of the North. Under the head of Hardy Plants in Part II are named some of that class, which possess qualities that suit them to this style of gardening. These pos- sess a special value for the purpose, because while very effective along with others, unlike the Palms and other ten- der tropicals, they can be had in any garden, without re- quiring a conservatory in which to winter them. To such also may be added some hardy trees and shrubs that have a picturesque appearance, like the Ailanthus, Cut-leaved Sumach, Aralias, Magnolias, Honey Locusts, and others. The first two named, when used for this purpose, should be subjected to the peculiar treatment of cutting them down to near the ground every year, and then depending upon the new growth for effect. Some plants grown from seed and tubers, such as Ricinus, Japanese Maize, Sun- flower, Caladiuras, Cannas, etc., are also very suitable here. If with a good collection of such kinds, only a few real tropicals can be used, a decidedly good effect may be created. These latter kinds will be growing in pots, which should Ijc sunk in the soil of the bed. Even if the true tro])icals are entirely lacking, the effect may still be very satisfactory. The sub-tropical garden should be in a place somewhat protected from sweeping winds, for these play havoc with the foliage of some kinds. HARDY FERNS AND THE WILD GARDEN. The hardy Ferns are a class of plants of peculiar beau- ty, and an out-door fernery is very desirable. Delight- I-LOWERING AXD ORNAMENTAL PLANTS, 21 9 ing ill sliade, as most of them do, there are many town lots so hedged in by high buildings as to forbid the growth of other plants, but which are well adajited to growing ferns. Jknls for these may be treated as low rockeries. In Part IV directions are given for preparing soil for them. Tlie Wild Garden is a ])lace where interesting wild and cultivated plants are brought together in the most nat- ural manner, and allowed to live and struggle, much as they do when wild. In small grounds a place in tlie midst of grou])S of trees and shrubs, or in large grounds a number of acres partly wood and partly open, treated thus for revealing the wildness peculiar to woods and clearings, may be rendered a mosi enjoyable place. Where space will admit, hardy flowers, grasses, ferns, and creep- ers should be scattered about, and thickets be formed of shrubs, including brambles. Some clumps of the more graceful wild-looking plants of the garden should be placed here, together with those gathered from woods and clearings. Here is a place where the Fennel-leaved P«ony will be enjoyed more than would an improved variety with large gobular flowers ; the single Briar Eose more than the best improved Hybrid Perjietual. Some annuals may be scattered over the soil in spots, to come along as they can, and some of these will live for years by self-seeding. Rocks, stumps, and mounds, clothed with Mosses, Lichens, Winter-green, Partridge-berry, and many otiier little wild things are well in such a place, and could there be a small brook with aijuatic plants, trees, and rocky cliffs festooned with climbers, little would be lack- ing to render the spot constantly attractive. The loveli- ness and cea^^elessly varying charms of such scenes are indeed difficult to describe, and something of the kind would prove to be one of the most gratifying spots in any place, no matter what other features of adornment 220 ORNAMEKTAL GARDENING. miglit be introduced. Then such a wild garden has the great merit of permanence and inexpensiveness, for if arranged with some Judgment at first, the colony may almost be left to take care of itself. If the owner were to go away for ten years, time would so add to its attrac- tions, that he might on his return find it more beautiful than ever. CHAPTER XX. ROCKWORK. That there is a general love for the rough picturesque- ness of rocks and crags, is shown by the frequency with which the former, in either good taste or bad, are used Fig. 68. — SIMPLE FORM OF ROCKWORK. for adorning home grounds. AVith rocks we may trans- fer material for garden embellishment from nature, that remains wholly unchanged with the removal. The effectiveness of rockwork depends largely upon the manner in which it is formed. Figure 68 represents one of the simplest ways of using rocks and stones for garden adornment. Stones of most any size that can be handled are set a part of their length in the soil of a bed, somewhat mound-like in shape, and at such distances apart as to allow some plants to grow between them. They are better for being elongated, mostly setting them tlien with their longest way at right angles with the sur- face of the soil. ROCKWORK. 221 Chips of building stone from tiie cutter's yard are excel- lent. If their diameters are nearly alike, they may vary considerably in length without deteriment. If kinds of two or more different colors a;id shades can be selected for the same, or different beds, a pleasing kind of variety is thus secured. Such a rockery is well suited to ferns or any plants that in order to flourish need moisture at the roots. The stones aid the retention of moisture in the soil, and it may be remarked that the nearer flat the bed is kept the Fig. 69.— A ROCK-BORDER WITH ROCK-PLANTS, CLIMBERS, EVER- GREENS, ETC. less trouble there will be from drying out. A rockery is well adapted to situations which are diflBcult to embellish otherwise, such as narrow spaces between the walks and fence or house, or in angles formed by buildings and walls, or at junctions of walks, and sometimes they may be even used effectually in simple circular mounds. Figure 69 shows a rock-border suitable to be placed next to the boundary of lots, against buildings, or to be used as a" low screen. The engraving will give sugges- tions for arranging such mound rockeries. It is seen that there is first an edging of stones mostly set on their ORKAMENTAL GARDENING, ends, retaining the soil of the mounds. Then there nvb more or less stones, large and small, partly imbedded in the soil all over the surface. Tlie mound should, for the sake of variety, vary somewhat in its hight in different parts. As shown here, the front line is supposed to vary from one to three feet in hight. The ground outline may be waved or straight, as may be preferred, or space will allow. In some places pockets are arranged among the stones in laying them up, for holding soil and plants, Fig. 70. — IDEA FOB WALKS IN A ROCK-GARCEN. and in these trailers, like Moneywort, Vinca or Peri- winkle, etc., may be set. This engraving represents a rockery which is fully ex- posed to the sun. Such, if made fifteen to twenty feet wide, will accommodate a large variety of hardy and tender plants, dwarf, deciduous, and evergreen shrubs, etc. It is an excellent place for some of the slightly tender ever- greens, for the soil being elevated, is never wet, and al- lows the annual growth to ripen so thoroughly that they can endure severe cold with impunity. In grounds of large extent, and especially on places EOCKAVORK. 233 where large stones abound, rock-gardens can bo formed with many variations. An idea for walks in such a gar- den is given in figure 70, the rock-faced line of the mound as shown in figure 69, forming the edge of tlie walk all around. The outer edge of the outside mounds, and also beyond, may be planted with shrubs and trees, l)ut these, especially the trees, should not be so dense all around as to shut out the cool breezes in summer. If such a rock-garden is formed where one or several large shade trees stand, and the walks are carried near or under these, and seats provided in the shade, and then if a small stream of water can be had to pass through it, about every recpiirement for a very complete rock-garden would be met, and one suited to plants that like shade, moisture, and dry places. Sometimes instead of sowing a slo]ie in the pleasure garden with grass, its surface may be converted into a rockery. There is a chance in large rock-gardens for in- troducing an almost endless variety in the shape of grottos, steps, archways, springs, pools, cascades, bridges, ledges, shelves, etc., and it is not a difficult mat- ter to render these remarkably interesting and attractive. In planting, the principles governing the arrangement of groups of trees and shrubs, touched upon in previous chapters, may be observed here. One part of the con- struction may have trailers predominating, another ever- greens, from the spiry dwarf Spruces and Junipers to the Creeping Junipers and Ivies, still others may be de- voted to alpine plants, upland and shade-loving ferns, Avild flowers, and even showy tender tropicals and green- house plants may be introduced. In moist, shady places, the grotesque Eex Begonias, Marantas, Dracenas, Tradescantias, etc., would be effective. Cobaea scandens is a climber of special value for such places. By using good taste in the arrangement of the surface, rocks, plants, and trees, and avoiding every thing like stiffness 224 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. and formality in the work, there is no reason why such rockeries shonld not prove very pleasing in any garden that can accommodate them. An arch constructed of rough stones, and covered with climbers, is represented by figure 71. This makes an ap- })ropriate entrance to a rock-garden, or it may be intro- duced independently as an entrance to other divisions of the grounds. Even small lots will allow such an object to be brought in very fitly. This may be, because there are but few steps of transition between rocks, as they come Fig. 71. — AN ARCHWAT OF ROCKWORK. from nature, and as they are used in buildings. At any rate, I have observed that we may have, even in a small and highly finished garden, a bit of some such pictur- esque roughness, where other kinds of natural material used to a marked extent would seem out of place. Rock Grottos often prove interesting features in gar- dens. They need not necessarily be dark, damp, or un- healthy, and may, from the very nature of the material, and the manner of their construction, be made comforta- ble places in the heat of summer. Figures -72 to 74 give a ground outline, a cross section and a stairway of a sim- ple form of Grotto. There are in this two places of en- trance and exit on the level of the floor, an^l stairs leading from the interior to the summit, thus providing for free KOCKWORK. 225 circulation of air. In the one figured there is a bubhling spring of water, giving rise to a lively rill which crosses Fig. 72.— GROUND OUTLINE OF ARTIFICIAL GROTTO — J*, P, REPRESENT ROCK PILLARS. the floor, and an ample stone seat. There is a large field for variety and for displaying taste and knowledge of building in the construction of rockwork of this kind. Fig. 73.— CROSS-SECTION OF ARTIFICIAL Y\S.. 74. — STAIRWAY IN AKTI- GROTTO ABOVE, AT CROSS LINE .1. FICIAL GROTTO. In the Paris public gardens one may see that the con- struction of Grottos may amount to quite an art. Great 226 ORXAMEN'TAL GARDEXIXG. skill is brought to bear in imitiiting natural grottos, even to the introduction of imposing ai'tificial stalactites and stalagmites, also in introducing cascades and other forms of water in connection Avith them. The imitation of castles or their ruins, and draping them with climbers, is sometimes engaged in with favor- able results. But caution should be observed as regards the materials, designs, and location of such work, else it may prove a blemish rather than an ornament in the grounds. It is elsewhere suggested that a large boulder may be converted into an oruamental feature by draping it with BRIDGE OF ROCKS. the Virginia Creeper or other climber. There is propriety in introducing some of tliese sparingly, with or without the drapery of foliasre, into gardens, especially such as are laid out in the natural style. Placed in groups in a corner of a plat, or at the side of knolls, or singly at junctions, or along the sides of walks and drives, the effect of these is generally good. Sometimes shapely stones, uniform in size, may be used as edgings to walks or flower beds throughout a place. Such should be large enough to admit of sinking them part way into the ground, so that they will not easily become displaced, yet they should not be so large as to be very conspicuous. I'igure 75 represents a bridge of rocks for private or WATER IX ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 237 pul)lic groiuicls, either crossing over water, or another walk on a lower level as through a gully. With the right materials at hand, such a hridge is easily laid up and quite sure to look well. Very fair substitutes for natural rocks in rockwork are the odd shaped clinkers that come from furiuices, and the distorted burned bricks from kilns, which are often cemented together in masses. Some of these can be selected which, at a little distance, can not be distin- guished from rocks. In introducing rockwork into the garden, let every- thing like overdoing be guarded against. Where one meets with success beyond expectations in work of this kind, enthusiasm is usually aroused, and enthusiasm here, if it should blind the eye of correct taste and dis- cretion is liable to lead to very objectionable excesses. CHAPTER XXL WATER IN ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. In many of the most attractive natural landscapes water holds a place of high importance, and this suggesta its value in ornamental gardening. As a rule, unless it is supplied naturally, water effects produced in gardens prove somewhat costly, hence it will be only now and then employed, except jierhaps in the shape of a foun- tain, tiny rill or lakelet. But where a natural rill, creek, or lake exists, it should be prized and so treated as to make the most of it. A large stream or body of water may not be manage- able in itself as a garden feature, but trees and shrubs can usually be introduced between the frequented parts of a garden bordering on the water, in such a manner as ZnjO OKN A MENTAL GARDENING. to afford most delightful glimpes of it. No large expanse of water is as pleasing if viewed all at once, as when seen by parts through openings between woody clumps. Where they can be used, tastefully built boat houses, landings, and bridges are pleasing features. Small, natural lakes may sometimes be varied in out- line to advantage. Figure 76 shows how a lakelet, rep- resented by the dotted lines, which could be viewed at a glance in every part, was so varied by grading and planting as to be mor^' ornamental, and to appear larger, because so arranged that all parts are never seen from any one point, t'.ius conveying the idea of indefinite extent. In such work, regard should be paid to having the general outline simple rather than otherwise. The prin- ciple of partial concealment is bodies of water Fig. 76. — ^LAKELET IMPKOVED. an important one in managing all small if we would make the most of them. Islands add a pleasing variety to water scenery if happily placed. Usually they are better for being not far from the shore, to maintain an appearance of some connection with the main-land. They should be abun- dantly clothed with trees and shrubs. For every pur- pose of this kind, the Laurel-leaved and other free-grow- ing Willows possess great value. Planted at the water's edge, their shrubby forms soon enlarge, and hanging in the water on one side, resting on the land on the other, they break the regular outline of the water delightfully. Where a good living rill is found in gardens, or can be introduced, there need be little lack of the attractiveness water is susceptible of imparting. A lake may be formed by excavation or by damming, or a series of these may be made, or the conrse of the stream maybe intercepted with rocks and earth, to produce small musical cascades or WATER IN ORNAMENTAL GARDEKING. 229 nipids, as shown in figure 77, provided there is a very sliglit fall in the land ; or the water may be divided to meet again further on to form islets. Usually with a certain quantity of water at command, there is no more advantageous use to which it can bs put for or- nament than this of rills. Those European gardens, in which vast sums of money have been expended in con- structing complicated fountains and water works, are poor examples to be followed in the use of water in gar- Fie;. 77— a natural rill improved. dens; for usually, if, instead, one-fourth of the water and one-tenth of the money had been employed in these in making rills, lakelets, wateifalls, etc., of natural appear- ance, the effects would have been far better. One thing to be guarded against in the production of effects with artificial water, or, indeed, in artificial ar- rangements of rocks, trees, etc., is the investing of the work with au air of stiffness and a studied appearance so opposite to nature in her most pleasing moods. This defect is not unfrequently apparent in such compositions, and sometimes so bad that the general appearance of the grounds would have been better with no attempt what- ever at ornamentation of the kind. A safe iruide in this 230 OENAMENTAL GARDENING. kind of work is to be found in fine natural scenes, and then, of course, experience, coupled with good taste on the part of the designer. Unless adjacent grounds are elevated and hilly, the banks of lakes and streams should not generally be steep and regular. Usually in nature, the land meets the water gradually, unless in the case of streams, the sides of which are cut down by the wearing of the water, or where they run through gulleys or along hill sides. If walks are to be carried along the banks, they should not, as a rule, run close to the edge for long distances, but a strip of grass, however narrow in places, and then at . some points clumps of trees ajid plants should be between them. Occasionally the walks may run down to the water and be widened into a beach for some distance and return again. Along winding rills, through gulleys, where the walks are carried along steep sloj^es, railings are sometimes needed and perhaps bridges now and then for crossing the stream. L:n-ge rocks set in the water to l)roject boldly above the surface are appropriate in water scenery. Trees and shruljs in clumps, extending quite down to the water's edge in places, help greatly to pro- duce an appearance of natural grace and freedom. While no class of trees are more appropriate for en- hancing water effects than Weeping and other Willows, still it is frequently demonstrated in the best landscape gardening, that no trees are more useful for planting with the Willows than the Poplars and other tapering kinds — trees the least likely to be thought of by many planters for such situations. In marked contrast, as such erect trees are with the weepers, they give strength to them, and create an improved effect throughout. Water is often used in ornamental gardens in fountains and basins. By means of these, the refreshing beauty and music of moving water may be secured with quanti- ties so limited, that the use of the element in any other HEDGES AND CLIPPED TREES. 231 iiianner would be impracticable. The beauty of a foun- tain depends largely npon having a sufficient water sup- ply to make the streams strong and animated, and also upon its style and setting. The best fountaiu designs and figures can never make up for inadequate water sup- ply. On the other hand, a fountain with no figure, and consisting only of one or more strong streams from noz- zles placed at the surface of the water is usually very satisfactory. Both stone and iron basins are used for fountains, but so far as appearances go, the former consisting of a cut stone coping, with a well constructed cement bottom, is to be perferred. Where the water of a garden is suitable for fish and water fowl, it is desirable to introduce some of these for ornament. Water fowls soil a garden to some extent, on which account, if for no other, they must not be in- troduced too freely. Small garden ponds converted into washing pools for poultry are an abomination, and yet they may sometimes be met with looking quite as bad as this. The subject of Aquatic and Bog Plants is somewhat discussed in Parts II and IV. CHAPTER XXll. HEDGES AND CLIPPED TREES. That peculiarity of some trees which allows of their being closely clipped with shears, and by this means kept compact and dense, when they would naturally reach a large size, is turned to account in the garden, particularly in making hedges. About all those known as hedge plants are of this nature. Hedges, whether introduced for marking divisions, or 232 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. merely for ornament, are, wlien in good condition, and it is easy to have them so, very useful for increasing garden variety and effectiveness. Their forms may be varied considerably, and in this way alone there is a chance for a good deal of pleasing variety. Figure 78 shows a number of forms of both plain and ornamental hedges, including two passage ways through them. The Norway iSpruce and Hemlock, two of our A ^S ^^^ Fig. 78. — VARIOUS FORMS OF HEDGES. most reliable and tractable hedge plants, and the Beech, Hornbeam, and Holly, are suitable for the forms A, D, H, I. Arbor VitfB, Tree Box, Privets, Osage Orange, Honey Locust, Japan Quince, and other shrubs may be trimmed into forms B, O, and E. Entrances like F and G can be worked out of any of the taller grooving hedge plants. Edgings to walks, borders, and clumps of plants and shrubs may be made of the Dwarf Box, Tom Thumb Arbor Vitoe, and Dwarf Spruce with good effect. The distance apart for setting hedge plants, varies ac- cordina: to the size intended to be reached. For exam- HEDGES AND CLIPPED TREES. 233 pie, if a fine, low Norway Spruce hedge is designed to be kept at three or four feet in hight, with perhaps five feet in view ultimately, the plants may be put eighteen or twenty inches apart, but if a screen, twelve or fifteen feet high is desired, t::ey should not be closer than four feet, and six feet would be better. In cases like this they may be planted twice or three times as close at the start, to make a full row, and then remove those between as the others require the space. It is safe to say that from twelve to fourteen inches apart is a suitable distance for the majority of kinds where the hedge is to be low, with an increase to twice this distance for high hedges or screens. The objection to hedges, that they cannot be crossed even when it is desirable to do so, at other places than Fig. 79. — STILE FOR HEDGES. gates, may be overcome by the use of a srile, as shown in figure 79. Regarding clipped forms of trees, we hold in as great abhorrence as any one, the ludicrous extent to which these have been used in old-time gardening, esj^ec- ially in Europe, and which even to-day prevails in some places abroad. Still, in the same way as the formal ter- race and slope, geometrical flower-beds, etc., may some- times fit in the garden, as minor features of embellish- ment, so some clii)i)ed trees may ])roperly be admitted. A number of acres closely covered with every conceiva- 234 oi:::a:,ii:xtal gardening. ble pattern of these, such as can be seen in some old European places, may well fill us with disgust, but it does not follow that a few perfect globes, pyramids, urns, or trees in other shapes, well relieved by grass, in some parts of our gardens, would not afford genuine pleasure, or even that a larger number may not sometimes be em- ployed with tasteful effect. The charming garden of Mr. Hunnewell, Wellesley, Mass., owes its fame to no one thing, more than to an elaborate Italian garden at the head of a lake, which in excellent taste is made to support numerous trees clipped into pleasing forms. But hero, let it be observed, that while the Italian garden is quite extensive itself, the grounds, as a whole, are so large and so generally con- spicious is the natural style of gardening over extensive areas, that after all this fanciful feature is but a minor attraction of the place, and as such, certainly tends to add greatly to the charms of this private park. In figure 80 a number of forms of clipped trees are given. The globular form A, is adapted to a number of shrubs such as Deutzia, Japan Quince, Dwarf Mock Orange, and othei deciduous kinds, and Box, Dwarf Pines, Spruces, and Arbor Vita3, in evergreens. Forms B, D, H, J, may be applied to the common Hemlock, American or Siberian Arbor Vitae. E, D, H, or any other forms the beauty of wbich is nothing, unless attention is given to nicely shaping them, may be produced most perfectly from the Tree Box. The White Pine and Nor- way Spruce are well adapted to the styles shown in F and /, and the last named for G, 6-', K, and either this. Hem- lock or Arbor Vita? for the arbor 7/. In producing forms like the arbor L, and archway J, after the trees have become well established in their places, a stay rod of iron or wood is required at a suitable hight against which to tie the bended tops and branches, as necessary daring the fir.5t stages of the work. HEDGES AND CLIPPED TKEES. 235 The most suitable place for some clipped trees in gardens is in the vicinity of any portion devoted to the formal styles of planting. A pair of these on the sides of the walk near the entrance gate, or at the crossing of walks at right angles, or one placed as a imm. M' Iv'M ws urn — FORMS IN WHICH TREES MAT BE CLIPPED. central or terniinil object of a walk or drive, or a few along the sides of these, and on terraces, may be very ornamental, provided alw;jys they are well sustained by grass or by otlier prominent features. Yet it is proper to recommond great caution against introducing them too freely, for un({nestionablv it is easy to overdo the matter. 236 OENAMENTAL GARDENING. CHAPTER XXIII. GARDEN STRUCTURES. Whatever the size or nature of a garden, there is al- most always need of some kind of architectural struc- tures besides the mtiin buildings, for adding to its comfort, security, and interest. Among these are fences, walls, railings, copings, seats, arbors, shelters, conserva- tories, lodges, tool houses, bird and animal houses, vases, trellises, fountains, statuary, terrace walls, sun dials, swings, bridges, boat houses, and sometimes aqueducts, viaducts, and in public parks, offices, museums, refecto- ries, amusement halls, etc. The guiding principles to the introduction of these should be, first their apparent need ; second their adap- tiveness to the purpose and place in view ; third, appear- ance of stability and tasteful design, and lastly, due re- gard to a right balance of the features of the garden, and especially between made and natural ones, to see that the former, which may be introduced chiefly for ornament, are in a sense subordinate to the latter. As to fences, walls, etc., it is apparent that gardens, and esj)ecially cemeteries, are more beautiful for exclud- ing these from the scene. Usually the less we can have of them the better for pure garden effect, to say nothing of expense saved in their construction. Still we cannot get along entirely without tliem. Where a guard is needed along streets and boundaries, the light oniamental iron fences now manufactured are excellent and interrupt the view but little. For many places hedges are very suitable instead of ordinary fences along the street, but if there would be an objection to a hedge in front of the house on account of its density, then just here an iron or oher fence might take its place. GARDEN STUUCTUllES. 337 When wooden picket fences arc used, as they common- ly are, the lighter and more simple they are in design, the better their appearance. It is in poor taste to spend money on excessive ornamentation of these or any other kind of common fences of wood or iron in the manner often seen. There might be much to recommend on the score of fine garden effect, in the custom common in some cities, of having no front fences even on large grounds. But their absence never allows the owner who thinks much of his garden surroundings, containing perhaps rare and prized specimens, to feel secure against intrusions from quadrnj^eds, children, etc. I observe that while a few years ago this custom seemed destined to prevail generally, now nearly all the best places of large size have some kind, of fence or guard i)ut up along the street. Hurdle fences, made of light wrought iron posts and bars, as often seen in the gardens of the British isles, can at / Fig. 81.— COPING AND ENTRANCE NEXT TO SIDEWALK. times be advantageously used in i)arks and large grounds. Instead of mowing all parts, large plats some distance from the house or prominent drives, may be surrounded with these and cattle and sheep be allowed to ])asture within. By this course, diroct use may be had of some parts of the grounds without the expense of mowing, and yet, being closely cropped by the animals, these areas may have the same appearance as the mowed parts. The in- troduction of live stock in tliis way, engaged in feeding or resting, adds much to tlie interest and effect in large 238 OENAMENTAL GARDENING. grounds. The hurdles may be so lightly cons':i'uc!,od and yet strong, as to escape notice a short distance away. Where there are groujis of trees or shrubs within the pastured pluts, a line of liurdles may be used to en- close them, for protection from the animals. AVire fences can also be used for such purposes. A simple stone coping, as shown in figure 81, is perhaps the best substitute for a street fence wliere the latter is not desired. 8ucli a coping scarcely interferes with the garden effect, serves to mark tli3 l)ound:iry and also to turn off intruders, be they brutes or persons. A very Fig. 82. — WALL OF STONE, AND RED AND YELLOW BRICK. neat street guard may be made by running a low open iron fence along the top of a coping, like that illustrated in figure 81, or on a low brick wall one to two feet high. In grounds it is sometimes desirable to separate the kitchen-yard or garden, or the cow-yard from other parts, by a close wall or fence ; or sometimes these are needed for shutting out unpleasant views on rear streets. Where a hedge for any reason is inappropriate, walls of brick or stone, or of both, may be built, or if something cheaper is preferred, a fence can be erected of boards, either rough or planed. Figure 82 shows a wall of brick in two colors, and Btone, and figure 83 a tight board feucp, made of boards GARDEN STRUCTUKES. 239 four to eight inches wide, lapped on each other as shown in the engraving. By planting Virginia Creepers, Wistarias or other climbers, or training fruit vines and Fig. 83.— TIGHT BOAHD FENCE, TOP VIEW. trees against such walls, the blankness which would otherwise prevail is delightfully obviated. Balustrades and railings may be introduced at the head of a terrace slope, in situations where such archi- tectural decorations are warranted by proximity to the house, or by the general plan of the place. SEATS, ARBORS, AND SHELTERS. Seats, arbors, and shelters in pleasure grounds, are for both comfort and beauty, and to serve these ends should Fig. 84. — GARBEN .SEAT SHADED BY CLIMBERS. be the first consideration in selecting them. Figure 84 shows a garden seat which is shaded by an arch covered Avith climbers. For a neat, cheap, and strong garden seatj Avhat is called the "Central Park Settee," or some 240 OSNAMENTAL GARDEXIXG. variation of it, made of two end frames of iron with ash slats for bottom and back, will answer well for almost any place. Rustic chairs and settees are very suitable for the garden. In selecting these, regard shonld be had to their being comfortable as seats and w^ell made, for frequently they are not so ; one of the great objec- tions to every kind of rustic furniture, is the lack of dura- bility, especially when it is carelessly put together. Although expensive, perhaps the most beautiful, cer- tainly the most durable material for garden seats, is stone, for one of which figure 85 gives a good design. They may be made curving or straight, and of a length to suit the place to be occupied. A wooden seat, if well proportioned, neatly made, and kept thoroughly painted or oiled, answers very well for Fis:. 86. WOODEN FOLDING SEAT, Fig. 85. — A GARDEN SEAT OF STONE OR MARBLE. END SECTION. the garden. It may be made as shown by figure 86, with two pieces in the seat, the front half secured to the risers, and the back half so hinged that it can be turned over the front one, as the dotted lines indicate ; with this there may always be a dry bench, unsoiled. by birds and quadrupeds. Any good house-joiuer could make such a seat in a short time. The corners of the hinges that project above the surface of the seat should be rounded off with a file. A four-inch strip should be nailed on the back half of the bottom^ as shown in tl>e engraving. GAEDEJSr STRUCTURES. 241 For a structure to jilTord shade, there cau be nothing more appropriate, in most phices, than a simple skeleton arbor, as siiown in figure 44, covered with a heavy mass of some rapid growing climber like Virginia Creeper, Trumpet-vine, etc. If the pieces comprising the struc- ture are put togetlier with a view to replacing any when Flff '^7 — A RUSTIC SUMMER HOUSE. they begin to decay, liy taking out the old and slipping in new ones, they may be kept up for an indefinite time. Climbers however, that twine tightly around supports, like tlie Bitter Sweet, would not allow this plan to be carried out, but many others will. There are instances where something more pretentious than the skeleton arbor is wanted, such as a rustic arbor; ugure 87, which represents a type of garden architecture much liked when well made. In this six-sided arbor, three of the sides at the back are closed, and the interior surface of these as well as of the ceiling is covered with 11 0> A:.-) ORNAMENTAL GARDENING, small, straight bi'anches an inch or so in diameter, nearly uniform in appearance, arranged obliquely, as shown in the engraving. The outside of these parts is covercil with sections of poles about three inches through or more, split in halves, and arranged with the bark outwards, oblifiuely or otherwise to suit the taste. One of the front sides affords entrance, and two others are about half oj^en. The roof, in this instance, is heavily thatched with straw, which not only affords perfect protection to the structure, but being nine to twelve inches thick, it serves to render the arbor cool under the rays of a mid- summer sun. A seat is arranged against five sides of the interior. Many variations from this style, both as re- gards material and form, will suggest themselves to the ingenious. BRIDGES. Bridges across streams or ravines, afford a fine field for the display of taste and ingenuity as to designs. Fljy 8S— RUSnC BRIDGE. Those of rustic work are very appropriate, and where taste is used in the selection and combination of ma- terials, tiiey are peculiarly effective. Figure 88 shows a bridge of this style. This being raised in the centre, not only allows boats to pass underneath where the banks GAKDEN STRUCTURES. 243 are somewhat low, bat it gives a commanding appearance to the structure, and affords a good out-look over the grounds. The elevated jiortion may be furnished with seats, and even converted into an arbor by roofing it, as can easily be done by carrying the posts of the upper level to about eight feet high, to support the roof. BIRD HOUSES AND OTHER SHELTERS. The three bird houses represented in figure 89, are of rustic material, and suitable for placing on poles or in trees. The left hand one consists of a section of a tree trunk, dug or burned out, and capped with a roof turned in a lathe and painted. The centre one is made of bark- Fig. 89.— KTTSTIC BIRD HOUSES. covered slabs. Houses after either of these two patterns, may be large enough to accommodate two or more families, by partitioning them off into apartments, with an en- trance to each. The right hand cut shows a cluster of four houses, made of sections of branches. These are fitted up to accommodate occupants, by making a cavity in the side large enough for the nest, and to get in and out; afterwards replacing a shell of bark over the cavity to close it, and boring a hole from the end of the block for a door. In mounting these, the sides that are cut into should be placed downwards, to jn-event water from entering. Notliing will better encourage the feathery songsters to be at home in the garden, tlian good houses like these and others they may suggest. 244 OENAMENTAL GAEDENING. Where water fowl, deer, and other quadrupeds are in- troduced, the shelters for these look well constructed of rustic material. Eustic vases, window boxes, trellises, etc., are also desirable for ornament in certain places. There are a number of manufacturers of and dealers in rustic work in the country, who keep a regular stock of these and similar articles on hand. Every thing like overdoing in the introduction of rustic articles in the garden should be carefully avoided. BOAT HOUSES. Where the body of water in a garden is large enough and sufficiently deep for boats, these are generally intro- Fig. 90.— DESIGN FOR A BOAT HOUSE. duced. Figure 90 shows a boat house suitable for a lake or river side in a private garden, and may be built of either lu'ick, stone, or wood. Such a structure affoi-ds shelter to the boats, a place for getting in and out of them, and in the above design, an observatory-room and veranda over the water. The upper floor is fitted for comfort by heat- ing it with a stove, to be used as a look-out in the skat- ing season. GARDEN" STRUCTURES. 245 PLANT HOUSES AND CONSERVATORIES. The general desire to render our homes beautiful by the help of tender plants and cut flowers, makes one more or less dependent upon plant houses suited for their cul- ture. If plants are not grown on the place, they are bought of the florists, and this is generally expensive, if a good showing is wanted. A plant conservatory in connection with the garden and home, may become, at a reasonable cost,a source of much beauty and pleasure, as well as profit the entire year through. The common bright flowers IwaauavviBBHiwjMii'iiit 'iniink'i ilniiiliiiiiiii Tig. 91. — DETACHED CONSERVATORY TN aOTHIC STYLE, WITH PLAN. may be luid freely, and the rare exotics nuiy also be grown for adorning the house in winter as well as the garden in summer. In addition to growing plants and flowers, glass structures possess an ornamental character of their own, as adjuncts of a house and garden, that make them very desirable. It has been well said : " Glass houses are like luminaries in pleasure grounds, they spread a sunshiny gladness over all the other improvements, and make them look more delightful." A detached conservatory in the gotliic style is shown in 246 OBKAME^^TAL GARDENING. figure 91, with also the ground phiii. Such a conservatory might be snflficiently large to meet almost every demand of a complete plant house for a moderate sized garden. A recommendation for this particular style is, that al- though exceedingly liaudsome, all the glass surfaces are straight. It would be difficult to give such or a similar structure a place in any grounds large enough to properly hold it, and not have it contribute effectively to the gen- eral adornment. For small grounds, other conservatories Fig. 92. — SMALL, CHEAP, LEAN-TO GREEN-HOUSE. quite as pleasing in design as this, may be planned, but smaller and either detaclied like this, or connected with the house. Figure 93 shows a small, cheap, lean-to green-house, which can be placed in almost any part of the grounds against a building. This is designed to meet the wants of those who like to have some means for growing plants, without any great outlay in the first cost, or who cannot readily so combine one with the house as to form a feature of its design. All conservatories attached to buildings should command a sheltered and sunny position. Some of the other architectural objects named in the PLAKS OF PRIVATE GROUNDS. 24? beginning of this chapter, I pass by without giving them special attention. Some are articles that are purchasable, such as vases, statuary, sun dials, and the like, others are not in sufficient general demand to require space here, and when wanted, the landscape and building architect will be able to furnish suitable designs. On painting garden architecture see Part IV. CHAPTER XXIV. PLANS OF PRIVATE GROUNDS. The materials used in, and principles governing orna- mental garden-making, are mainly the same for every place, but different gardens, of course, vary in size, shape, and natural character. For these reasons, I ]iro- pose in this work to pay special attention to describing- materials, and the principles which should direct arrang- ing them tastefully — so that one who has a place, what- ever size or shape, to improve, may start on the right track for doing it well. I prefer to do this to giving many complete plans of grounds, and then perhaps it would be found, that not once in a thousand times would any of these fit this or that particular place. Still, some plans may serve a useful end, in suggesting the uniting of features with a view to complete effects, therefore I have chosen from a large collection such plans as I think will best answer this purj)ose. Beginning with ])lans of very small })lats, say from half a rod to two rods each, it may be said, that here is a class in which a greater degree of uniformity prevails, as to size and shape, than in larger grounds, hence a little more attention is given to complete plans. Moreover, this class greatly outnumbers all others everywhere, and 248 ORKAMENTAL GARDENING. are ofteiier totally neglected as regards embellishments than larger places. The use of two shrubs only, is shown in figure 93 ; these may be chosen from Weigela, Althaea (Rose of Sharon), Japan Quince, Privet, and others. The shrubs are upon a grass plat, with a climber over the door. Fig- ure 94 suggests the use of more shrubs than are employ- ed in the last, and arranged in groups. The ground where they stand may be somewhat undulating for creat- ing as much variety as possible with good taste. Only few shrubs being used, the selection should be choice, consisting of those that afford a good variety in tints, in foliage, flowers, and in their season of bloom. Sorile of Figs. 93 and 94. — small front lots adorned with shrubs and gkass ONLY, WITH CLIMBERS OVER THE DOORS OF THE HOUSES. the number might be dwarf evergreens, to give the eye something to rest on in winter. Small sized shrubs pro- portionate to the size of the grounds, are usually to be cho.sen for such places. The geomeirical or straight lines of the house, street, and walks, have such an overpower- ing influence here, that there is little chance to work for the higher garden effects of breadth and freedom. And yet in these plans, the i)rinciple upon which such effects depend, is observed to the full degree allowable, and Avith good results. Plans for laying out small lots, using flowers freely in addition to shrubs and grass, are given in figures 95 and 96. In both these lots, the ends farthest from the walks. PLANS OF PRIVATE GROUNDS, 249 as well as the border projection towards the walks, may be raised to be slightly mound-like. When speaking of giving a rounded elevation to such borders, I would add the caution to not raise them too high. From Figs. 95 and 96. — small front lots adorned with grass, shrltjs, AND FLOWERS. six to eighteen inches at the highest points may be about right for the smallest sized lots thus laid out. Two small lots planned for using more flowers than anything else, are represented in figures 97 and 98. The fl ^H i^r] X >t •pi t :-:i»igiS!l Jl Figs. 97 and 98. — small front lots with flowers predominatins. spaces between the flower-beds may be tilled eitlier with grass or gravel, the former being decidedly preferable. Such arrangeikients are particularly suitable for ])ersons who have a passion for growing flowers, and no other space in which to grow them. To carry out either of these plans in small places, ought not as a rule to cost more than ten or fifteen dol- lars for each, especially if those who are to use them do 350 ORKAMENTAL GARDEKIKG. the work. Not much is thought of applying such amounts to the ornamentation of the house, yet if plans like these, or similar ones suggested, were applied to all the small lots of a neighborhood or a town, there would follow returns in the form of pure pleasure and healthfulness in such vicinities, not procurable in any other manner, or so cheaply. In England, and elsewhere in Europe, the smallest sized cottage lots are oftener improved than with us. To pass along the streets of some English towns, and see rows of houses, the little front plats of each tastefully laid out, planted, and well kept, one can easily have faith in the favorable influences of such improvements on tlie happiness of those homes. Contrasting such cottage grounds with the neglected ones so general in our favored land, one is impressed with the wide field open for improvements in this class of places everywhere through- out America. While the plans already given were designed for lots of the smallest sizes, several of them, for example those of figures 93, 94, and 96, would be adapted to front lots of a similar shape several times larger than those indicated, say from two to three square rods in each. Figure 94 Avould be the best of these, because the central portion of the lawn is open, tending to impart an air of breadth and repose, a matter, the importance of which increases with the larger size of the plats, A long, narrow front yard is shown in figure 99 ; it is of moderate size, in which many shrubs are used, yet there is considerable open lawn, an arbor, several flower- beds, and a shade tree. Such an arrangement of borders and walks, the former [)lanted with shrubs of all sizes and in large variety, with hardy and tender flowers, renders a small place exceedingly interesting to any lover of natural beauty in flowers, shrubs, and trees. Besides, such improvements may make a place seem far more PLANS OF PRIVATE GROUNDS. 251 ample, than if laid out, as are many similar frout lots, witli only a straight walk through the center from the entrance to the door of the house, and perhaps not a tree or shrub around. If desired, a vase might be placed Fig. 99.— A DEEP FRONT LOT, LAID OUT TO ACCOMMODATE GRASS, FLOWERS, SUADE TREES, AND AN ARBOR.- Scale, 4 feel to i inch. in the center of the oval plat, but this is by no means required for general good effect. It may be observed by the plans presented in this chapter, that I am a strong advocate of the use of choice flowering and evergreen shrubs in groups, for embellish- 252 ORNAME^'TAL GARDENING. ing home grounds, and particularly small ones. This is because it is found, that in such places good selections are certain of giving satisfaction, if the}' receive any- thing like fair treatment. Elsewhere I have called atten- tion to the special merits of this class, and I here quote Mr. Thomas Meehan, of the " Gardener's Monthly," re- garding the same point : '' Shrubs are not nearly enough employed in planting small places. By a judicious selection, a place may he had in a blooming state all the year ; and they besides give it a greater interest by their variety, than is obtained by the too frequent error of filling up with two or three forest trees of gigantic growth. Plant thickly at first, to give a place a finished appearance, and thin out as they grow older. The average planter would have half a dozen plants scattered a dozen yards apart, because sometime in the future they would perhaps touch each other. We pass continually these weak conclusions, the little clumps near gate-ways will look like clumps some day; but why not have t'lem now ? It is as easy to have the perfect body as the ugly skeletons lying around. Masses of shrubs have a fine effect in a small place. The centers of such masses should be filled with evergreen shrubs, to prevent a too naked api)earance in the winter." Let it not be thought that belts or clumps of shrubs must make small grounds close and hot in summer for want of breeze. This might be, if tliese were wholly made up of tall shrubs planted thickly, but by having the margins varying in width, and then planting the narrowest parts with kinds, that in an age can not ex- ceed a hight of a few feet, and the wide parts with large growers, this need not happen. More than that, by. having enough tall kinds here and there, to break the force of the wind, diverting it in different directions through V ne garden, a place may be all the more agreeable. An arranirement of shrubs in a town (corner lot of PLANS OF PRIVATE (iROUNDf!. 253 about half an acre, with straight stone walks and drives, is shown in figure 100. The walk leading to the side street is almost hidden as seen from the front by shrubs, while the back walk and the drive are entirely hidden from every pirt of the grounds, by shrubs and a hedge. While the arrangement provides for some long vistas, to give an idea of extent, the projection of masses in a measure divides the ground into front, rear, and side portions. Each part being managed in a separate style, with shrubs and trees of varied character, the entire plat Fig. 100.— CORNEK L3T, 1!0 BY 220 FEET, WITH STRAIGHT WALKS, PLANTED WITH A PROFUSION OF SHRUBS AND FLOWERS. is made to yield a great degree of satisfaction. The lawn effects are ample; althinigh the borders encroach upon these to some extent, there is much advantage gained in the relief and support that comes from trees and shrubs. Then in the long, wavy outlines of the grass-plat that meet the eye, being as long or longer than the boundary lines themselves, the idea is conveyed that the area is much larger than it really is, and larger than it would appear without the improvements. 254 ORNAMENTAL GAEDENING. Fig. 101. — GROUNDS THREE-FODRTHS OF AN ACRE IN EXTENT.— A, Hon^e; 5, Front Arbor; C. Enlrancc! Walk tliroiiirh SlimbUi'iv; Z>, Coiiserva- toi-v; E. Sliwl; F, Heai- Arbor eovcrrd uiili Climbers; G, Wild Giird.'ti; H, Rockery; 7, Clollies-dryiiig Ground: J, Fruits and Vegetables; .ff, Mixed Border. PLAXS OF PRIVATE GROLTNDS. 255 Figure 101 represents a garden of about three-fourths of an acre, with the walks curving instead of straight, as seen in the hist. As may be seen by the explanations, there are numerous features embodied in this plan. The front arbor, B, might be surrounded with a dis- play of flowers, and some of these could also be intro- duced all along tiie edges of most of the slirubbery masses. The entrance from the street might be edged with stones, which, especially if tlie ground of the shrub- bery masses were raised to be mound-like, could be built up a foot or more to retain the raised earth, and thus creating an effect quite like that of a rockery. There are several fine open lawns adorned with flower-beds; there are shade trees througliout the grounds, and altogether just enough intricacy and scattered points of interest, to lead a visitor to its charms by giving him something new at every turn. In figure 103 is shown a four-acre jilat on a hillside, having a surface with a difference in elevation between the front and rear boundary lines of seventy-five feet — the rear being the highest. In these grounds rare op- portunities were afforded for introducing a great variety of features, from the finished grass plats and Italian garden with its clipped trees, architectural embellish- ments and hedge, to a most picturesque wild garden, with thickets, bluffs, rill, waterfall, lakelet, winding- wood paths, etc. A picturesque arbor on the hillside, not only adds a pleasing effect to the grounds, as seen from the front, but it affords a fine view of the lower parts of the garden and distant outside scenery, as do also the walks and seats of lookout plateau. The plan on page 258, figure 103, is of a five and one-half acre garden. Here, in ground almost level throughout, there is sufficient area^ for introducing many attractive features, and yet preserving enough of openness for fine garden effects. A rill of water through the rear part. 256 ORNAMENTAL GAKDENING. L, Seat OB Elevated Point. PLANS OF PRIVATE GROUNDS. 257 with considerable of an abrupt rise on each side, afforded opportunity for excavating a small lake. On the left- hand side beyond, but not far from the foot bridge, a picturesque rockery is formed, including a cave, through which extends a walk, that is broken by steps at the en- trance, and with a seat in the middle. A sharp knoll is formed here on the edge of the water, partly by the help of the cave arch, and on this is located a shady rustic arbor, the top of which is seen from the street. This arbor is reached from the rear by a walk with steps. The knoll is faced on one side with rocks rising out of the water, and there are several large rocks jutting out of the water near the opposite shore. On the cave side these are arranged to allow the planting of shrubs, vines, and plants among them, thus forming a kind of rock-garden. While in some places of the rocky knoll, the stones over- hang the water as seen in the plan, further on towards the bridge, the rock work runs back somewhat from the water's edge, affording walking room between. Opposite the arbor across the lake is a cai'riage stand. There is a small wooded isle, towards the other end of the lake, with a boat shelter near. At several places about the lake are opportunities for making wild-gardens. A hedge of spruce, and some clumps of shrubs and trees, cut off the vegetable and fruit garden, carriage house, aiid laborer's cottage from the garden, as show^n in the i)l;m. One objection to the making of more drives in small grounds than are needed to reach the stable is, that they are apt to lack dignity through being too tortuous. While such is not the case in the present instance, still had it not been for the unusual attractiveness of the rear grounds — proving a great delight to visitors in cari'iages, the back drive through the grounds would not have been planned here. Much could be said in favor of home plats and pleasure grounds, being managed on a joint plan for making them 258 OKNAMENTAL GARDENING. Fig. 103.— A FIVE AND ONE-HALF ACRE GARDEN. Thelocntion of some of tlie leK(lin^. and the otliers living apartments, if a box is thus run the entire length at the second story windows, and then for the tliird story a single box is provided for each window, with none between, the effect as seen from the sti'eet, is very fine. 368 ORIfAMENTAL GARDENING, The plants most suitable for sucli boxes, are those of drooping habit for along the edges, and climbers may be used if desired, for the sides of windows, or posts of the veranda, and then bright, free-flowering plants, such as Geraniums, Heliotropes, Cuphea, Fuchsias, and showy- leaved Dracaenas, Begonias, Aspidistra, Coleus, Achyran- thes. Dusty Miller, Caladiums, Cannas, etc. In fact, where space and sufficiency of soil admit, there need be no particular limit in the selection. Tlie Hanging Basket is a well known ornament, jiar- ticnlarly suitable for suspending from the roof of the portico, or from a projecting hook in front, or at the side of a window. The most common material of which these are made is wire, the basket to be lined with moss, and rustic earthenware or fancy crockery ware. Here it should be observed that quite a number of plants are brought closely together, and the best results will not fol- low with a receptacle for earth too small to properly hold them. AVhatever their kind, those measuring ten inches and upwards across, unless very deep, are best. If less than ten inches, they may look well when started, but with hot weather, and increased growth, they will not keep thus, but die out quickly. The plants named for window boxes, are also suitable for hanging baskets. PLANT VASES, BOXES, AND LARGE PAINTED FLOWER POTS. These are often used for decorating railings, posts, roofs, and the lawn. They do not differ materially as to their planting, from the hanging baskets and window boxes. In all attempts at growing plants in these recep- tacles, above all else the soil should l)e in fertile condi- tion, for be it remembered, that much growth and beauty are expected from a small bulk of earth, consequently it should be the best attainable. Any good soil of loamy texture, well enriched with fine, old manure, will answer. ' POKTICO, WINDOW, AND ROOF GARDENS. 209 ROOF GARDENS. A garden upon the roof affords a means of plant-grow- ing, either in the open air or in a green-hoiise, that we hope to see made much of in the near future. We talk abont not having gardens in the cities, because there is no room. Is there less superficial area exposed directly to the light of the heavens after building than before ? The area is the same, but only so much nearer the light and pure air. In most cases, where there are flat roofs, and tliere could readily be more of them, there would be found ample opportunity for cultivating a fine collec- tion of hardy and tender plants, even in the hearts of cities. One of the finest public gardens in Europe is the Wa- verly Garden of Edinburgh, being really a roof garden over a market building. It embraces an area of about seventy-five by four hundred feet, all cf which, except where there are some sky-lights, is devoted to flowers, grass, vases, walks, and seats. There are sixteen bor- ders, averaging some sevent3^-five by four feet, besides a number of smaller stpuire beds, and altogether using thousands of fine plants. There is also a large bed of grass kept neatly mown. The beds and borders contain about a foot in depth of soil, and this Is retained by a neat stone coping through- out. The edge of the roof, and the sky-lights, are guarded by ornamental railings, with posts, and these support many well filled vases of plants, fully one hun- dred in all. Taken altogether, this roof garden, with no advantages beyond those common to thousands of roofs throughout our cities, is a most charming place, afford- ing delight to all who visit it. The engraving (fig. 110), with the quoted matter which follows, appeared in the " American Agriculturist " some time ago from the pen of Samuel B. Parsons, Esq., 270 OKNAMENTAL GARDEKING. of Flusliing, N. Y. They bear so forcibly upon this subject, that I present them here : " It is within the means of every man who bnilds a house to rent for eight hundred doUars per year, to liave a garden on the roof, which, during the summer, can be filled with the most luscious fruits, and in the winter with plants, the beauty of which will afford a charm far beyond the trifling cost of maintenance. "A glass roof costs but little more than a slate or tin one. Let the roof, therefore, bo covered with glass, and let the garret floor be covered with concrete^ sloping P Fig. 110. — A ROOF CONSERVATORY. gently from the center to the sides, around which a slight depression in the floor can carry the moisture or drip into the leaders, which pass from the roof of every house to the ground, and with slight expense a perfect green-house may be had. Now for heating. Every one knows that the upper rooms of his house are so warm from the ascending heat of his furnace, that registers are scarcely needed. Let the doors be kept open, and the waste heat of the house will keep the green-house at the highest desirable temperature without any extra trouble or expenditure. " Its care would be a pleasant recreation fot any of the PORTICO, WINDOW, AND ROOF GARDENS. 271 family. A lady fresh from such occupations, would lend new charms to the evening hours, and the memory of her children in the upper air, would always have power to bring a sparkle to her eye, or a glad expression to her lip. There are numerous florists in every city who would be glad to keep such a place in perfect order for a very mo'lerate compensation. " If a little extra strength is given to the beams which sustain the upper floor, suf- ficient earth could be placed there to lay out the whole space as a perfect garden, with winding walks, de- lightful carpets of green, and roses, camellias, etc., l)lantcdin tlie soil. " If the capabilities of this plan, and its economy were thoroughly understood by architects and proprie- tors, the time would soon come, when a roof garden would be considered Just as essential an appendage to a house as a bath-room." AN ATTACHED CONSER- VATORY. Figure 111 represents a small conservatory, built over a bay window, and reached from the second floor. Where it would be un- desirable to have a conser- -Fig. 111. — CONSERVATORY OVER BAT-WINDOW. vatory or garden on the top of the house, such a one from being smaller, as well as more convenient^ might be prefer- 273 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. red, and it would be pt'acticable to combine it with almost any house in one shape or another. The heating could be done by extending the warming system from the house into the plant ajiartment. With the beautiful, irregular styles of houses that are now so much in demand, it would be no trouble to plan excellent small conservatories to be parts of them, not only serving to make the home more interesting to the inmates, but adding additional grace and brightness to the buikling as seen from the street. If there Avere gardens adjacent to the house needing bedding plants in the spring, some of these for the summer flower beds and vases could be pro2:)agated towards each spring, in addition to growing flowers throughout the year, and the space thus turned to a profitable, as well as a pleasure vielding account. CHAPTER XXVI. CHURCH, SCHOOL, ASYLUM, HOTEL, AND RAILROAD GARDENS. It is gratifying to see the disposition manifested in some places to improve with garden embellishments the surroundings of schools and other institutions, such as are named in the heading. There is room for good work, for I can think of nothing that can go farther towards educating the people to appreciate and desire fine gar- dens, than to establish them in places where they are sure to be seen by many observers. It is painful to admit that perhaps not one in ten coun- try school houses is shaded by a single tree, or shows any other garden embellishment whatever. In fact, a school- house may usually be recognized by its bleak appearance, and the entire absence of trees, shrubs, climbers, and CHURCH, SCHOOL, ETC., GARDENS. 273 flowers. There is no excuse for this, because the stock necessary to improve tlie grounds, need not cost much, if bought, while in most cases no outhiy would be required, as native plants and trees could be had for the digging. School trustees should see to it, that the work is done in every district, not by planting only, but also by properly protecting the trees, etc. That there is little danger that trees will be damaged in school yards if somewhat protected, and with proper rules respecting their safety, is shown by the many cases of city school yards that abound in shade trees. Here, in fact, may sometimes be found the other extreme, and almost as objectionable as the one alluded to above — namely, too many trees. In carrying out such improvements, the best way is to plant the trees in clusters, so that i)lenty of air and sun- light, as well as shade, may be present. Figure 112 shows a school yard designed to present a great deal of natural beauty and variety, as well as to afford comfort to the children. It is intended that the general surface be finished with gravel, or other hard material, instead of grass. In the figure A, A, represent shrubbery and flower borders about eight feet wide, well guarded against intrusion from the children, by a stone or brick coping one foot high, with or without an addi- tional light iron guard on the top. B is an ornamental raised bed or terrace, about a foot high at the lowest part, with the soil retained by a coping similar to that around A, A. From this terrace, which is grass-covered, a second one, smaller in diameter, rises above the surface about a foot, and is also retained by a coping of stone or brick. This one is surmounted by low-growing, bright flowers. 0, C are grass-covered slopes of about two and a half feet rise, and surmounted by low-growing, attractive shrubs. By the novel means of such slopes, some grass for beauty may be had in perfect order, without danger 274 OEN"AMEN"TAL GARDENING. of its being trampled out of existence. D is a strip of grass, ou which is planted a heavy line of shrubljery, to form a dividing line. There are also four shrubbery and flower-borders against the school-house in the plan as shown, also protected by copings. Strong-growing shade trees are scattered about, and climbers adorn the buildings, with some vigorous-growing shrubs or evergreens set to Fig^. 113. — SCHOOL TAKD IMPROVED WITH TREES, ETC. hide the outhouses. A school yard like this, with little attention, proves very attractive, and when it is tried it is surprising how soon the children learn to respect and love the adornments. With a good selection of trees, shrubs, and flowers, there may be an abundance of bloom all through the warm season, besides grass and shade. Such arrangements in the school yard might also be of CHURCH, SCHOOL, ETC., GARDENS. 275 o^reat service in furnirfhiug matonals for tlie study of hotany. In the larger grounds, common about high schools and colleges, usually a stylo of gardening more natural in its features may be employed, owing to the more favorable circumstances. Sometimes very fine displays of ornament- al gardening, as well as more useful botanical gardens aro established, as at Harvard and elsewhere. Such improve > ments find appreciation from the patrons of the schools, and may readily be made to add much to their complete ness as educational institutions. TREATMENT OF CHURCH YARDS. In adorning church yards, the aim should be towards introducing qniet and graceful beauty, consequently such trees as the Camperdown AYeeping Elm, Kilmarnock AVillow, Yellow Wood, Ginkgo, and the evergreens and flowering shrubs are to be preferred. There should be a great deal of clear lawn in proportion to other embel- lishments. Whatever trees are introduced should not be crowded, but receive a free setting well supported by grass, Avhile the shubbery and evergreens may be ar- ranged in well defined clumps. The climbers should be freely used for mantling the outside walls in jilaces, and especially in those numerous cases where there are no garden surroundings. GARDENS FOR HOSPITALS AND ASYLUMS. Some of the most successful ornamental gardens in the country are those associated with hospitals, insane and other asylums. It is found that money may be as profitably spent in providing fine lawns, trees, shrubs, flowers, green-houses, etc., for aiding in the relief of un- fortunates, as in any other direction for rendering these institutions as useful as possible. 27G ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. Mr. Peter Henderson, in writing to the "American Ag- riculturist" of the fine gardens connected with the State hos2iitals for the insane, Mendota, Wis., says: "But the most important feature of the garden operations at this asyhini is the employment of the patients as work- men. An average of fifteen are employed in the summer months during the growing season, who work on an average six hours each day, and Mr. Schatzka, who is evidently a careful and intelligent observer, assures me that the effect on the health of the patients is marked. The result is that a greater number of the garden hands have been discharged as cured in proportion to numbers than of others. Mr. Schatzka mimages, by the aid of hot-beds, to fill numerous beds that are laid out iu the lawn in front of the hospital with flowering plants. These he quaintly terms an ' eye pasture ' for the patients. These beds give enough flowers to form bou- quets for the sick wards during the summer months, and thus are a source of great pleasure to scores of the un- fortnnates within. Believing in the soothing effects of flowers on some species of insanity, a gentleman recently left a fund of ten thousand dollars for erecting a winter garden or conservatory, to be used as a promenade ground for the patients at an insane asylum in Ohio. " Such a garden might be attached with profit to vari- ous other kinds of public institutions, for in nearly all cases the labor could be mainly done by the inmates, not only without cost, but to their phj^sical, mental, and moral advantage. The grounds snrrounding the various public buildings on Bhick well's Island, New York, and at Flatbush, Long Island, are, and have been so for many years, models of excellent cultivation, and reflect credit on the management ; but there are many others in the suburbs, and hundreds in all sections of the coun- trv, where no attempt whatever has been made, and in others it is so feeble that it has amounted to nothing. CHUKCH, SCHOOL, ETC., GARDENS. 277 There is uo excuse for this. There are always men fitted to take charge of such work to be had for moderate sal- aries, who, with the free labor of the inmates of the in- stitutions, many of whom would like the work, could produce results that would add vastly to the comfort and hsalth of the inmates, to say nothing of the saving to the county or State." Institutions of this character usually embrace a consid- erable extent of farm lands. In some cases these may, with good effect, be laid out something as shown in fig- ure 107, which, while allowing the land to be utilized for garden and farm i)urposesmay be laid out with reference to landscape garden effects. I recently made plans for laying out the grounds of a County Poor and Insane Asy- lum, the large buildings of which stand elevated some six hundred feet from the highway. The land between the buildings and the street was the best on the farm for gardening purposes, and had for many years been de- voted to vegetable growing. In the new plan, while drives and walks were provided for through the front portion, these were so arranged as to leave several large areas in this front part for garden crops. Between the drives and these plats, liberal breadths about thirty-five feet wide are to be in grass, and kept nicely mowed as well as embellished Avith trees, shrubs, etc. On- the whole it is planned for having about as much of the front devoted to vegetables as to ornamental gardening, and the former, so long as the garden is well kept up, detracts very little from the ornamental effect of the place, while practical minded tax-payers enjoy the combination and say it looks better thus. In the great hotel building enterprises of the day, there is often a good opportunity to devote a part of the vast outlay to rendering them attractive by introducing some garden features. Where it is possible to embrace a small garden area on the ground, this would be the best 278 OR^^AMEKTAL GARDEKING. form of ornament. Otherwise provision conld .be made for some roof and veranda gardens. What can go farther towards making a hotel attractive to the guests, than to have the dining-room and other windows opening upon a garden filled with neatly kept grass, bright flowers, and beautiful shrubs, together with walks, and perhaps vine-covered seats or c\rbors. The refreshing beauty and comfort of such a spot would be appreciated by the trav- elling public, and no doubt in many instances would serve to make a hotel a favorite over rivals not having these attractions. The enterprise manifested by some of the great rail- roads in tbe way of improved stations and station gar- dens, may be considered as a beginning in the right di- rection in what may be called "Railroad Gardening," and an example that must sooner or later be followed by all our railroad companies. The manner of keeping up lands along railroad lines and about stations in Eng- land, and elsewhere in Europe, is in marked contrast with this country. There nearly all railroad lands at the side of the tracks are made even, and whether level or sloping are well finished, put into grass and mown like a park. Masses and lines of trees are introduced in some places. What abundant chances for improvement in this direction are afforded by tlie American railroads generally. One may travel thousands of miles in the United States and see little besides weeds, thistles, and brambles scattered over a rough surface, and through unshapely ditches, with boulders and stumps along the tracks. It would cost something to bring the lands into proper shape for grass, but in the long run, improvements of this kind would pay, aside from the increased attrac- tiveness of the road to travellers, for it would require less expense to keep the surface mowed occasionally (the grass yielded ought to pay for this) than is now required in the occasional hacking awav of weeds and brush, be- PUBLIC PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS. 279 sides there would be less danger from lire should, the sparks fall ou the grass than might result from their dropping in tlie dry rubbish so common by the sides of the track. CHAPTER XXVII. PUBLIC PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS. The subject of public parks and pleasure grounds for recreation, is one that is destined to grow in interest in this country. The making of these is now only in its in- fancy, yet in view of their healthfulness and their impor- tance to the public, there is little doubt that they will re- ceive increased attention. The limits of the present work do not allow much space to be devoted to these, yet an attempt will be made to give such hints and suggestions as may be useful to those who consider the subject. BOTH PRESENT AND FUTURE WANTS TO BE CONSIDERED. In all cases where public gardens are contemplated, the scheme should be comprehensively conceived and ex- cuted. Even in initiatory discussions of the subject, it would be unwise to have in view merely the present needs, but a broad view of the probable future growth and wants of a town should enter into the calculations. The important fact that results which follow on such improvements reach far into the future must not be lost sight of. It is safe to assume that most of the pub- lic parks and gardens, laid out and planted now, will figure as important town gardens wiien our population will, in most places, have increased many fold. How quickly that time may arrive, who can tell ? Sixty years ago our entire population was about nine millions, with 280 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. but nine cities in the Union of more tlie ten thousand inhabitants. Now we number above fifty million of peo- ple, and we have two hundred and fifty towns of more than ten thousand inhabitants. The child who lives sixty years from now may then be one of a population of one hundred and fifty millions or upwards, in the whole country, and will witness a proportionate increase in the average towns as great or greater. Yet sixty years is a comparatively short period in the life of an ornamental garden. In Europe there are many gardens that are more than four times as old. Some of the woody resorts in Eome have been woody resorts from the time of the Caesars. Oaks, Chestnuts, and other trees that enter into gardens and parks as conspicuous embellishments are known to have lived from five hundred to two thou- sand years, and many of these are only in full prime, after they have been planted for a generation or longer. All these points suggest that the work of public garden making should be fixed on the broad basis of adaptabil- ity to the wants of ages — so far as these may be con- jectured — rather than solely to immediate needs. The beauty of hundreds of American cities, of the next and future generations, will depend in a large measure on the manner in which the present generation shall meet the trust of initiating town embellishments. The subject is one that ought to be handled as wisely as its importance deserves, so that in time, the average of our towns may be, what they are not yet, the most beautiful on the face of the globe, so far as public gardening may serve to make them so. AN IDEAL SYSTEM OF PUBLIC TOWN GARDENING. What maybe considered an ideal system of public town gardens ? Briefly it is one that for the least outlay se- cures the greatest benefits in the way of wholesome rec- PUBLIC PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS. S81 reation, comfort, beaut}', andhealtlifulness, to the greatest number for the longest time. There should be such a distribution of garden effects as to ensure accessibility from all parts of the town, those inhabited by the jioor as well as the rich, and should contribute in the best possible way to the attractiveness of the whole place. Convenience and beauty should be considered as import- ant in helping to build up a town as trade and manufac- tures are. So much of attractiveness should be aimed at by means of gardens, that few would prefer to live per-= manently out of the town that gives them their business. And then only that system, which will provide for future growth, ought to be acceptable with our many grov/ing towns. "BEAUTIFUL PARIS" AS A MODEL, Among all the cities of the globe, Paris, France, per= haps, comes nearest to possessing such an ideal as has been outlined. What has given to her the proud position of being the most beautiful city in the world, has been, as much as anything, the admiral)le arrangement of her streets, gardens, and boulevards, and tlie effective location of public structures throughout the city in relation to these. And this city, beautiful, convenient, healthful, and economically governed, should prove an interesting one for our people to look to as an example in the present age of city making for lessons in rendering our own cities similarly attractive. In figure 113 is shown a plan of the boulevard and public garden system of Paris (inside tlie walls — more than one thousand ordinary streets being omitted), which gives an idea of the manner in Avhich tliese open up all parts of a vast city of two million of people, bringing air, sunshine, grass, and trees — the latter in numbers reaching into hundreds of tliousands — so as to leave no part of the town far from some of them. Go where one ^82 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. will in this metropolis, and tlie lengths of but a few- blocks can be passed over without coming upon a delight- ful, airy avenue, usually from one hundred to two hun- dred feet wide, partly shaded with from two to six rows of trees, with inviting settees at close intervals. Small parks, varying from three to forty acres eacli, are well dis- tributed, and mostly excellent models for town gardens. Fig. 113. — BOTTLEVARDS AND PUBLIC GARDENS OF PARIS. A the Louvre and Gardens of the Tuilorics ; B. Champs Elvsees ; f. Arc of Triomphe; D. The Bois (Paikl de Boulojrnc; A', Pare Monceau : i?', Square des Batignolles; G. Pare iles Butts (Jhaumont: H. Place de la Bast' le ; /, Place de la Nation: J, Bois iPark) de Viiicennes ; A'. Garden of Plants ; L. Luxem- bourg Garden; J/, Pare Montsouris: iV, Frocadero Garden; 0,Wall skirted by a Boulevard. As may be seen, the general arrangement of boulevards was made with a view to convenience, as well as beauty. The Louvre at A being the central point, in general their courses are in diverging lines from this part — opening PUBLIC PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS. 283 direct coinnmnications between the center and extremi- ties. Then the cross boulevards are of a generally cir- cular arrangement, an outer one running along the wall, around the entire city, and thus every part within the wall is in direct communication with every other part. The plan of our national capital, a city which is gain- ing a wide reputation for town beauty, in many respects resembles that of Paris, and singularly enough the plan originated with a Frenchman, Major L'Enfant, of the French army, who assisted in Revolutionary times. General Washington approved of his plan and it was adopted, the wisdom of which course has since been fully confirmed, notwithstanding that for many years the plan of wide avenues, circles and squares was unappreciated. Because the City of Washington, thus in infancy, secured a plan of arrangement adapted to future growth, and then in time grew to fit it, she is destined to surpass many other cities in general attractiveness, because others, in time past, Avere never led into similar steps. In such facts as these may be found lessons well to be heeded by aspiring American towns at the present time. PARIS, PAST, PRESENT, AND FUTURE. So far as details are concerned, no doubt the plan of Paris would be susceptible of many improvements. It must be remembered, however, that this city, unlike our own cities, is one of great age, and that no farther back than the time of Napoleon III had but few attractions in the way of town gardens. The present admirable system of boulevards was secured only by piercing broad and clear through the solidly built and meanest parts of the old city, bringing in air, light, and trees, and working general improvement. "It is not many years," says M. Robert Mitchell, of Paris, in speaking of those improvements, ''since the 284 OKNAMENTAL GARDENING. boundiiries of Paris inclosed an old city that was a dis- grace to our civilization ; streets or rather fissures, with- out ventilation, and unhealthy districts where an entire population of poor people were languishing and dying. Now, however, thanks to the useful and important works that have lately been carried out, the sun shines every- where, streets have been enlarged, and every one has sufficient air to breathe. " Before the establishment of the Paris squares, the existence of a great number of children wa'? passed in confined and unwholesome districts. The fresh air for them was only the threshold of a vitiated atmosphere. They were obliged to walk far before they could find a patch of vendure, or a bit of country. The children went out but little, it was thought useless to dress them or make them clean. How many times have we not noticed with painful emotions these little, ragged, pale creatures who never apparently thought of the filth in which they were obliged to live. "Now, thank God, this dark picture has become bright, within a couple of steps of even the poor man's house, there are trees, flowers, and gravel walks where the children can run about, and seats where their parents may sit together and talk." Great as has been the work of cutting the Paris boule- vards, the making of scores, perhaps hundreds of miles of others is yet contemplated. Possessed of such a spirit of improvement, the present beauty of this famous capital, by the help of the gardening and other arts, is easily accounted for. But Paris will go on increasing in attractiveness, and must continue for time indefinite to stand as a marked example of what may be done to make beautiful and healthful cities, even under circumstances that would appear on their face most adverse, and far more so than anything known in America. There is another aspect of the matter that ought to PUBLIC PARKS AND PLEASL'RE GROUNDS. 285 interest us. Strange as it may appear, it is a fact that these improvements in Paris, liave not only been made Avithout cost to tlie town, but even with a balance on the right side, the vastly increased value of the splendid new sites for business purposes in the improved parts, having thus far, more than rcjiaid all the cost of the work. THE LESSON FOR AMERICAN ENTERPRISE. Why, with our wealth, intelligence, and foresight, we should not in hundreds of instances, acquire the Parisian spirit of town improvement is hard to see. If the means at command to do with, should measure fittainable re-, suits, it would not always be said that Paris is the most beautiful city on the face of the globe. Her example is now being followed in other French cities, such as Lyons and Rouen, and also elsewhere in Europe, but where can we expect so much in this direction as in our own land, preeminently favored in innumerable respects ? With the majority of our towns, if a comprehensive, well devised pl;in, admitting of extension to any required degree would be adopted early, taking an examjjle from Washington City in this respect, gains approximating in character to those acquired by Paris might soon be reached with a small corresponding outlay. True, the Paris boulevards, as stated, were made without direct pecuniary loss on account of the buildings that were de- stroyed, but where any tou'n can, by judicious action, achieve equal results without making such a sacrifice of property, the gain must be greater yet. It is on precisely these grounds that growing American towns should meet the case. Much of the land needed for complete systems of boulevards, squares, and parks, could, in many towns, be secured at a low cost now, to be laid out and improved in final details as the place grows, so that in time advantages, proportionally equal if not 286 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. superior to those of Paris would i-esult. There are few places that could not undertake such improvements, in some effective degree, and carry them out successfully, without any one greatly feeling the burden. To take a practical view of the matter, it may be seen that a town of one, ten, or a hundred thousand people, paying a special tax of but one dollar, for instance, per capita on an average, for initiating the work, and then afterwards say twenty to fifty cents annually for improving and keeping, would raise a sum of money, that with the help of good plans and prudent management, would accom- plish results that would soon be priceless, and of which all could reap the benefit. It will be no credit to American civilization if the opportunities of hundreds of towns now needing these improvements are allowed to pass un- improved, in this latter third of the ninteenth century, with all our wealth and established prosperity, and with such examples as we have in Paris and other cities before us — equivalent lessons of which Paris herself in her pioneer efforts had not the benefit. The radiating and cross principle of town boulevards, such as the French capital decided upon, should in some form and degree be considered most desirable for adop- tion by our growing cities. With some main avenues radiating from the center outwards, the system is adapted to a growth of any extent, allowing all parts to be readily reached from all others at any stage of growth. Besides the merit of convenience, a town which thus possesses the degree of irregularity that comes from such a system is beautiful in general appearance, for in cities as in architecture, the prevalence of too much regularity in the plan and general lines, is not conducive to the finest effects. AVhere it might be found necessary for carrying out such a system, to open highways through any old thickly settled parts, it could often be done as advantageously as similar work in Paris has been done. PUBLIC PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS. 287 THE LARGE PARK SYSTEM. If there is one lesson more valuable than any other to be learned from tlie park system of Paris— and cou' firmed by the experience of other cities also — it is that cities should depend upon boulevards, squares, circles^ and moderate-sized parks fur town gardens, rather than exclusively upon large, and, as they often prove to be^ enormously expensive parks. The inborn American love for doing great things, may easily lead to the erroif of laying out large parks, when smaller ones would bet' ter serve the purpose. In many cases a small park of five, ten, or forty acres, well arranged and cared for, is capable of more fully serving every true want which calls for a town garden, tlian a large one of hundreds of acres. The desire for large parks for large cities need not be an unworthy one, but discrimination should be made between such as are largely made up of artificial decora' tive garden work, and very costly in construction and maintenance, and those of such a nature tbat a large degree of a natural kind of park attrai'tions and benefits are secured for a comparatively small outlay. In the vicinity of almost every town there are sites not far distant, possessing natural beauty in landscape, wood, and water, well suited for a park, and which may be bought at a moderate cost. One or more new tracts of such land, of almost any extent, may be secured and cou' verted into a park or system of parks, on some simple, Avell considered plan, having in view the presenting of nature in her most attractive moods. Such a park, if so managed as to leave it mainly in a wild state, both now and in the future, may be made most de lightful as a ground for public recreation, either alone, or as a part of a, system embracing some more highly improved gardens in the town. The wet places must be drained, some graceful driveways with a natural appear- 388 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. ance constructed, making them eitlier of substantial mate- rial or depending in a measure on earth roads for summer driving, as is done in tlie Richmond Park in the outskirts of London. Trees, slirubs, and plants, for desirable new groves, masses, and wilds, may be planted, shelters erect- ed, and other improvements introduced. Then under cer- tain mild regulations, allowing and providing for forest rov- ing, boating, carriage driving, horse-back riding over mead- ow and hill, and other privileges of great freedom, such a semi-natural park might be rendered immeasurably valu- able as public recreation grounds. By introducing herds of cattle, sheep, or deer, restrained by hurdles to keep down the grass of meadows, a desirable attraction would be gained, and at the same time the expense of mowing such portions of the park be obviated. A park or parks of such character, not so far off but that they might be readied by carriages, street cars, or the railroad, and then several small, well kept parks and boulevards, in and near the town, to provide garden beauty, fresh air, and comfort, near the center of popu- lation, to benefit every body every day, it is believed may together afford the elements of a complete public garden system, more fully for a certain expenditure than in any other way. GARDEN BOULEVARDS. The idea of the Paris boulevards one hundred to two hundred feet wide, has been for sometime adopted on a small scale by a number of our cities. A common width of these is one hundred and seventy-five feet, and arranged with a wide center space, supporting four rows of trees, or irregular ariangements of trees, shrubs, and plants, with walks, settees, fountains, etc., and on each side a driveway and a side walk, next to the private property. Narrower boulevards are planted with two rows of trees in the middle, and a row at each side. PUBLIC PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS. 289 while still wider ones sometimes have a middle and tw^o side driveways, with trees on the plats between. Such boulevards, or park-ways as they are also called, deserve to be far more widely introduced, as means of augmenting town beauty, and creating air spaces, where pure breezes may have some vantage ground in cities. But there is an enlarged form of boulevard that is enti- tled to consideration in American town gardening, where- ever something more stately and complete is desired. I refer to the Grand Garden Boulevard, about four hun- dred feet wide, and of which in Paris there are several illustrations. One of these might even be introduced as a substitute for a city park ; possessing all of its advan- tages, and a number in addition, with but few of its disadvantages. In such a grand boulevard, three hundred and fifty feet or more wide, a breadth and length of base is secured, that affords a chance for various garden effects impos- sible in a narrower area. Long, ample, and, if desired, winding drives, approximating closely to those of a large park, are attainable, while the liberal width allows of a free arrangement of walks, bridle paths, groups of trees, shrubs, and flowers, and open areas of lawn. Even lake- lets, rockwork, arbors, etc., in varied extent, maybe in- troduced with little loss of fine effects, as compared with large parks. Figure 114 illustrates a garden boulevard, four hundred and thirty feet wide, with great and small circles, and narrow boulevards and streets, that open into it of two hundred, one hundred and fifty, and one hundred feet in width. The plan shows two styles of laying out : the lower part in the park, and the upper in the avenue style. But in both, the natural style of arrangement mostly prevails. In addition to the main garden drives, there are walk-bordered roadways for traffic along each side, and into which private walks and drives open. 13 290 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. Fig. 114.— GARDEN BOULEVARD. Such an aveuue gar- den, in good shape, ex- ^^^^^ tending either as a main r feature of a system of boulevards and parks or not, for one or any num- ^^^^^^^5^^ ber of miles through a N^ town, with wide circles at central points, sup- porting town halls, art galleries, museums, con- servatories, or other edi- fices, and small circles at J unctions with streets, containing monuments, statuary, or fountains, present an array of fine ([ualities difficult to equal. Add to this the area that on each side throughout the length, is embraced by private grounds, with residences setting back, let us sup- pose, at an average dis- tance of about thirty feet, and altogether a garden is presented in effect, about five hun- dred feet Avide, from house to house, and stretching far away, which for grandeur, richness, variety, and healthfulness, stands un- equalled by any other kind of town garden, PUBLIC PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS. 291 The roomy circles shown in the plan are features of this system that must not be underrated. Any structures of pleasing proportions built on these, will show to the best possible architectural advantage, and the value of any such in contributing to the effective appearance of a town, is virtually multiplied by the number of streets centering here — opening up vistas through which they are seen from a distance. Let us imagine the effect on a town of having its imposing edifices located on great cir- cles, like the one shown at the top of figure 114, into which, in this case, twelve streets and avenues open from different directions. The beauty of a structure placed here would benefit a large part of the town, because in effect, belonging as an objective point to each street diverging from it. Yet we constantly build towns in such a way that much of our attractive architecture is buried between masses of buildings and is only to be seen when it is reached. The secret of the magriificence of cities like Paris, Eilinburgh, and AVasliington, is largely found in such an arrangement of streets, edifices, and gardens, that they all contribute their full worth to- wards producing a grand, harmonious effect, with many of the avenues leading towards imposing structures, which then are seen through vistas of tree and garden beauty, that afford refreshing relief to the architecture. It is for growing towns to note, that the city which succeeds by proper plans to so dispose of leading streets, public edifices, town gardens and parks, that each is used to the best advantage, is the one that secures the greatest amount of town attractiveness, and with the least expenditure of material and money. Not least among the advantages of garden boulevards, is economy in the area employed, in proportion to the ef- fects gained. A smaller number of acres is required for a given length of these than might be supposed. One four hundred and thirty feet wide, would require to the 292 ORNAMEXTA.L GARDENING. mile, about forty acres of land, not counting the two side roads, wliich are required as highways in any case. How could a better use for say one hundred and twenty acres be imagined as a large town garden, than in one such a broad gaixlcn boulevard, with all its varied beauty and numerous circles, supporting attractive archi- tecture, stretching away for three continuous miles? A GLANCE AT CENTRAL PARK, NEW YORK. It may be interesting to note here that out of seven hundred and fifty acres — the area embraced l)y the well known Central Park of Xew York, there could have been made boulevards of the great length of six miles, and four hundred and thirty feet wide (not counting side drives), and fourteen miles of bouleviirds. from one hun- dred and twenty-five to two hundred feet wide, besides six parks of from fifteen to forty acres each, and still have fifty acres for large circles, and leaving sixty acres for the purpose of securing a large, natural park at some distance away. If the equivalent of Central Park area had been managed on a plan something as shown by figure 115, af- fording superior sites for museums, fountains, statuary, etc., and also for other town buildings, that are mostly now hidden away, can it be doubted that far better ef- fects would have been seciTred for the beauty of tlie city, and adding in many ways to its desirability as a place of residence, than has been Avrought by tlie pre:-ent system? In considering the subject of Public Gardens generally, one may be pardoned for questioning, as they see the state of neglect and decay so conspicuous in late years in this noted garden, what its future is to be, and what its influence upon the development of upper New York. If the blame for this is laid to corruption in the man- agement, more than to the circumstances of its make up, PUBLIC PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS. 293 size and location, it may be said that as the complete bonl- evard and small park system afford in great measure a reme- dy against the defects of the latter nature, so the same system affords certain safe- guards against extreme mis- management not possessed by large parks. The garden avenues extending a great length through a town, are in all their details brought face to face with a large body of taxpayers, and mis- management is exposed and becomes intolerable. At best but a small portion of all the people of a town can visit the large parks often, hence wholesale mis- management freqn ently goes on without detection or check for a long time. And it is significant that if parks once happen to fall into a state of neglect and decay, they are liable to be shun- ned even by many of the otherwise regular visitors. A lesson may be taken also from the unpleasant reputa- tion which to some extent is associated witii Central Park as a resort of the vici- ous classes, against con- ^ig- 115.— central park as it , ,. i , MIGHT have been. structmg any large parks, abounding in much close wood near the present or future 294 ORN"AMENTAL GARDENING. centers of large towns. It is a question whether this is not a state of things hard to disassociate from such a combination of circumstances in any place. In propor- tion as any system o! centrally located town gardens can dispense with all woody solitudes (for such the clumps of woods become after nightfall), and instead have much openness, with small clumps of trees and shrubs, this serious fault is lessened. One great recommendation for boulevards and small parks, in the midst of cities, is, that from their comparative narrowness and openness, they offer few special attractions to the viciously inclined. Turning from all that has been done in Paris in im- proving the city, by opening up tlie boulevard and small park system, there would be nothing wild in the idea of adopting in New York now, a system of parks and boule- vards, something as shown in figure 115, and just sug- gested, dispensing entirely with Central Park as it now is. Such a move in New York would no doubt be attended, as something similar in Paris has been, by many important advantages, not excepting that of profit from a financial point of view. The present marvel- lously attractive Pare Monceau, of Paris, was formerly much larger than it now is, but the improvers of the city saw the policy of cutting it down, and along with other improvements, reduced it to less than half its former size, selling the cut off portions for residences at enormous rates. By a similar course with the larger New York Park, the city would gain directly in two ways, first by getting rid of a park that in more than one respect is too large, considering its location, and instead, drawing it out, so to speak, in order that it may contribute beauty, healthful- ness, and convenience to many parts now deprived of them. SMALL TOWN PARKS. These, if well arranged, may be made to afford a good and varied show of park-like features, in a compass so PTJBLIC fAHKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS. 295 Hmitecl, tluit in large towns the laud may be secured at points that are readily accessible by the masses, while Fig. 116. — PLAN OF A TEN-ACKE PARK. A, Main Grass Plat ; /?. Lakelet; r, Rill. f'dbySprine from rcK-kworkatl); S', Bridge; F, Arbor ; G, Drive ; S, Concourse; f. Walks enlarged in Shady Places ; J, Urinal. small towns and villugos that could not afford extended garden systems, may have one or more parks of this kind. 996 OEKAMEKTAL GARDEKINa. Undoubtedly many small cities and towns are to-day debarred from having a park, from the false notion that one such, to be worthy of the name, must be large, or at any rate very expensive. Such is not, however, the case. Figure IIG -is a plan of a ton-acre park, showing how much of garden and landscape attractiveness even a small area like this may be made to yield. Here are some hundreds of trees and flowering shrubs ; open areas of lawn, the largest one about two acres in size, lakelet, rill, spring (natural or artiiicial), mound, rockery, bridges, arbors, flowers, ample walks, play grounds, etc., all disposed in a simple and largely natural style, and for showing boldness of character throughout. A short drive is also introduced. In parks of fifteen, twenty-five, or more acres, these may be brought in more freely, and there is greater latitude for creating fine garden effects. A glance at the map of Paris, figure 113, shows a wise distribution of small parks througli a large city. In that city al)out two hundred acres, divided into a dozen parks of from three to forty acres each, are thus employ- ed. These exquisite gardens are productive of an im- mense amount of comfort, pleasure, and healthfulness to the Parisians, and undoubtedly far more so, than if all were instead included in a single large town park. It is a great recommendation for small town parks, that in our hot, dry summers, they could in many places be kept watered, with the effect of constantly having fresh, green lawns and foliage, a thing pro])ortionally more difficult as a park is larger. In fact it is Just at this season, when of all others we most enjoy cool, green lawns, that the large parks are so parched up as to be quite disagreeable. Where Botanical, Zoological, or other collections are to be secured, small sized parks, if not too small, are well adapted to accommodating them. PUBLIC PARKS AND PLEAS UBE GUOUITDS. 297 TOWN SQUAEES. No parts of a town have greater need of garden spots, than those that are thickly settled. Often there is a square of one or several acres, or one could be made in places not admitting a larger square. But such plats are susceptible of being rendered much more attractive than they usually are. They should neither be exclusively devoted to trees for shade, nor be barren of them. A mean between the two, providing for an abundance of air, breeze, and sunshine, by keejiing them well open in parts, and then grass, masses of trees and shrubs, flowers and walks tastefully arranged here and there should be secured. Figures 117 and 118 represent two small squares, laid out on simple geometrical plans. The first has a grassy Fig. 117. Fig. 118. DESIGNS FOR SMALL TOWN SQUARES. center, with a continuous flower-bed next to the walk, save a narrow strip of grass between. Seats may be placed in the depressions shown' in the walks on four sides. The woody growths may be both shrubs and trees, arranged in masses as shoAvn in tlie plan. Figure 118 has a square gravelled surface in the center, upon which is located a drinking fountain, piece of statuary, or candelabrum. As a rule, the more simpk a plan (-'f this kind is, the 298 OKNAMENTAL GARDENIN^G. better. Sometimes, owing to strong arc'.iitectural in- fluences, the introduction of terraces, elaborate flower- beds, and other similar features is proper in squares. But even then the plan should bo essentially simj^le as a whole. To have a small square, or park of any size, in fine con- dition in thickly settled parts, and abounding in refresh- ing natural attractions, it must above all else be properly protected by a fence with gates, after tlie universal Euro- pean fashion. This is absolutely necessary for keeping out that greatest of all enemies to low flowers, shrubs, and evergreens, dogs. These enjoy running and playing in such places, and by their lawless, and worst of all, filthy habits, in time kill every fine shrub or plant. But fences may be made inconspicuous, and not more than three or four feet high, if built of pointed pickets. A single width of coarse wire netting, with meshes two or three inches wide, fixed against the fence next to the ground, will keep out all small animals, and besides pi'otect the place from paper and litter that are swept along the streets by the wind. Then the admission of dogs at the gates should be strictly prohibited, unless they are led by a cord or chain. PLANTING PUBLIC HIGHWAYS. All over this land, both in city and country, there is an inexcusable lack of shade and ornamental trees at the road sides. Foreigners wonder at this, as they find here a land rich in fine native trees, and an apparent lack of appi'eciation of their value. Throughout Europe the country roads are very commonly, and often for many miles in a stretch, made beautiful and comfortable by the use of trees. If a persistent effort were made at once to plant trees along the higliways, and to care for them, the next fifty. PUBLIC PAllK.S AND PLEASURE GROUNDS. ^99 or even ten years, would nuirk u greater change for the better in the general appearance of our rural districts, then has taken place since the lands were cleared. Such an improvement would tend to greatly increase the values of lands, and besides, who can measure the increase of comfort to be gained for every living thing ; in summer by abundant shade ; in winter by breaking the force of piercing winds, not to speak of advantages as effecting rainfalls and drouths. In some of the States of late, laws have been made to encourage tree planting, by paying a bounty from the State treasury, to those who plant and protect trees. In Connecticut an act provides, that any person planting and protecting forest trees for one-quarter of a mile or more along any public highway, may receive, for ten years, one dollar per annum for eaeli quarter of a mile so planted. In some instances, public spirited individuals have offered ])rizes of forty, twenty-five, twenty, and fifteen dollars for the best and largest rows of trees alono; any puljlic road of a town, the award to be made by three non-resident experts. It is shown that bounties and prizes thus offered stimulate a great interest in tlie work of planting trees on public roads. In planting street trees, the common arrangement in rows with the trees at equal distances apart, is not the only one, or perhaps not always the best. Too much of such planting tends to monotony. The rows should be broken now and then, by setting the trees more irregularly, placing some close together on both sides of the walk to form clumps, and then leaving open spaces elsewhere. In figure 107, and also in the lower half of figure 114, this idea is illustrated. Monotony may be further broken by introducing different kinds of trees, keeping each somewhat by itself. A common fault in this work is, to plant so close that the trees have no chance to develop their beauty. This 300 or:came\'Tal gardexixg. ofteu comes from a desire to have a plenty of shade at once. The better way is to plant some trees to be per- manent, say at thirty-five or forty feet apart for Elms, and twenty-five for otlier kinds of forest trees, and then to set rai^id-growing kinds, like the Poplars, Silver Maple, Ailanthus, Catalpa, and European Alder, between these, to be removed when the better kinds need the space. If but two trees are needed in front of any promises, plant three, the middle one a fast grower, to be removed before many years. RURAL IMPROVEMENT ASSOCIATIOlSrS. The movements on foot in some places for establishing these associations, and having in view as a chief object the beautifying of towns and villages, by planting trees, improving roadsides, and town gardens, is a most worthy one, and their universal introduction would soon work great changes in the appearance of towns and villages. Through the kindness of the Hon. B. F. Northrop, of Clinton, Conn., who has been prominent in establishing these associations, I am able to present tlie following plan, which was adopted by the village in which he lives. CLINTON RUEAL IMPROVEMENT ASSOCIATION. 1. This Association shall be called " The Rural Improvement Association of Clinton." 3. The object of this Association shall be to cultivate public spirit, quicken the social and intellectual life of the people, promote good fellowship, and secure public health by better hygienic conditions in our homes and surroundings, improve our streets, roads, public grounds, side-walks, and in general to build up and beautify the whole town, and thus enhance the value of its real estate and render Clinton a still more inviting place of residence. 3. The officers of this Association shall consist of a President, a Vice-President, a Treasurer, a Secretary, and an Executive Committee of fifteen, six of whom shall be ladies. 4. It shall be the dutv of the Executive Committee to make GARDEN CE.METEKiriS. DOI all contracts, employ all laborers, expend all moneys, and superintend all improvements made by the Association. They shall hold meetings monthly from April to October in each year, and as much oftener as thej^ niay deem expedient. 5. Every person, who shall plant three trees by the road side, under the direction of the Executive Committee, or pay three dollars in one year, or one dollar annually, and obligate himself or herself to ]}ay the same annually for three years, shall be a member of this Association. 6. The payment of ten dollars annually for three years, or of twenty-five dollars in one sum, shall constitute one a life member of this Association. 7. Five members of the Executive Committee present at any meeting shall constitute a quorum. 8. No debt shall be contracted by the Executive Committee beyond the amount of available means within their control, and no member of the Association shall be liable for any debt of the Association, beyond the amount of his or her subscription. 9. The Executive Committee shall call an annual meeting, giving due notice of the same, for the election of officers of this Association, and at said meeting, shall make a detailed report of all moneys received and expended during the year, the number of trees planted under their direction, and the number planted by individuals, length of side-walks made or repaired, and the doings of the Committee in general. 10. This constitution may be amended at any annual meeting by a two-thirds vote of the members present and voting. CHAPTEE XXVIIL GARDEN CEMETERIES. So excellent in almost every respect are many of the large garden cemeteries of our country, that all that may be said in praise of them — and much praise is thus be- stowed both at home and by foreigners — is usually well merited. But what on the other hand can be said of the strongly contrasted condition of thousands of small, old- 303 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. fashioned gnive-yards, which Ave all have met thrcuglio:;': the land, in a Cerriblj neglected condition, overgrown with weeds, rank grass, and tangled brush. The only way in which the condition of these can be reconciled, is to look upon them as relics of a pioneer period. They are like the ''log-huts" of past generations, old and faulty, but endeared to us by the ties th:it bind the de- parted dead to the living. Everywhere in the older sec- tions of the country, log-houses and barns have given place to tasteful and often costly buildings, repre3entatives of the increased prosperity of tlic community, but many times in the same community the burial place is still in the "log-hut" style. If tlie people were satisfied to have thcni thus, no words of condemnation of such grounds — suggestive of cold and selfish forgetfulness — would bo too strong. But believing that the dissatisfaction with these is wide- spread, and that the present condition is due moi'e to not knowing what to do, than to a disposition against doing, we may feel hopeful of better things in time to come. Indeed, we tiiink there is enough love for the beautiful, enough wealth and enterprise, and enough respect for the dead in every section of country, to make and keep the burial })laces nearly or quite as well as those of the large cities to-day are kept. These grounds are usually of a few acres, but the joint property of hundreds of able per- sons, and actually representatives in every community of large sums of money. The arguments that force them- selves upon every one's good sense, in favor of having these small areas in good and even beautiful shape, out of respect for their hallowed use, ought to be overpower- ing in aid of any movement in the direction of their im- provement, and in every neighborhood there ought to be the persons ready to lead in and encourage the work. That which contributes most largely to the beauty of the improved city cemeteries, are the garden features in- GARDEN CEMETERIES. 303 troduced. How appropriate in this country of cheap land is the idea to have all burial ])laces, fair-sized, roomy, landscape gardens, varied with wood, groves, and single trees, lawns and flowers, arranged in good taste, with simple memorials to indicate the places of interment. The key to the superior appearance of our leading cemeteries, is the fact that the prices at which all lots are sold, are fixed with a view to the expense of per- petually keeping the cemetery in order. This must be looked upon as one of the most important points con- nected with improved cemetery nianagement. To tlie ob- servance, or non-observance of this is due the vast dilfcr- ence between the best and the poorest of our rural ceme- teries. As the incidental expenses of keeping up any cemetery lot by sodding, mowing, etc., are very light, when many are taken care of together, only a small increase in the prices of lots is required to form a general fund, the in- terest of which provides perpetually for their care. In the beautiful Forest Lawn (Cemetery, of Buffalo, con- taining two hundred and thirty acres, the price of lots is fixed at fifty cents per square foot, while in the new Buffalo City Cemetery, a few miles further from the city, the price is but twenty-five cents per square foot. These prices apply to all parts of the cemeteries, but then some sections accommodate lots of only one size, and others allow of lots of other sizes. Of course where land is cheap, the price can be kept at even lower figures than either of those named. How is the work of cemetery improvement in any case to be inaugurated and carried out ? First, let persons of public spirit carefully look over the matter, determin- ing what improvements are desirable, as to size of grounds, and whether it is better to change the old or to start an entirely new cemetery. If an old association 304 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. exists, that can be strengthened f.)r carrying out the new purpose, let it be done and put to work, if not, then a new organization should be formed. As to cemetery officers, there should be a Board of Trustees, composed of from five to twelve men, to be chosen by the lot holders. The election should be yearly, and the term of office not less than three years, with an arrangement by which one or two trustees go out each Fig. 119. — A GARDEN CEMETERY OF FIFTEEN ACRES. year, and the same number of new or re-elected ones come iu. All affairs of the Association and the property, should be managed by this Board, the members acting without compene-ation. In addition to the trustees, a secretary and treasurer should be appointed by the Board. Reports should be required annually from the officers by the lot-holders= There are laws in the different States GARDEN CEMETERIES. 305 bearing upon cemeteries, and these should be procured to aid, where necessary, in perfecting the organization. As regards the location of the improved cemetery, if lands can be procured for enlargement of the old grave- yard, lying directly adjacent, there are obvious reasons why this should be done, making such alterations as to adapt it to the new plan. If this cannot be done, some advantages might be found in starting a new cemetery, but this would in part, at least, be offset by the trouble incident to keeping up the old one and making removals. The size and plan of the cemetery, are matters so inti- mately associated with the needs of respective communi- ties, and with the style of arrangement, that anything said Fig. 130. — A GARDEN CEMETERY OF THREE ACRES. on this point must be general. There are several things that should have weight in deciding as to size of the grounds, such as the probable wants of the future, taking growth of population into consideration. A scant area limits the possibilities of the gardener in producing broad, pleasing effects. On the other hand, the larger the area, the more expensive will it be to keep up. It would in every instance be the best and cheapest — considering the permanent nature of such work, and the desirability of doing well what is done at all, for the Board to secure the services of a skillful landscape architect to help decide these 306 OKN AMENTA L GARDENING. points, as well as to prepare a plan of the grounds, select and mark out the arrangement of the trees and shrubs, and other matters. Under any circumstances there should be a definite plan devised for guiding operations, and the arrangement from the start should be soconij)k'te as not to require, in a great many years, any im^iortant changes. The grounds of the cemetery should be divided and sub-divided, into sections and plats, with such aven- ues and walks as may be deemed necessary. A map should be kept where it can be readily inspected. The lots should be of various sizes, generally with those of the same size together. They may vary from the size n n o 3 n d---— □ □ 5 D- ill 6 — v^ Q. 0-- -D D 0------P I? — " IDOD: miOD ; I ___n t3 O D a- □ O D— — — -D a- D- D O 7" Q t? ! ; i : i i i i Fig. 121. — PLAN FOR DIVIDING CEMETERY GROUNDS. of single graves to several thousand square feet each, the more desirable sections usually being laid out in largest lots. Dispensing with gravel or other walks througliout the cemetery, having in their stead, grass walks only, ex- cepting some main walks and drives, is much preferable to cutting up the ground with the former. By this means there is a saving of expense in first construction ; the after care of the place is easier, and such a plan tends to increase the garden effect. Figure 121 shows one of the best plans for dividing cemetery lawns into lots and grass walks. The boundaries are marked by small stone, metal. GARDEN CEMETERIES. 307 or oaken slabs, so sunk down with the tops even with the ground, that the mower can jjass over them. This plan is drawn to a scale of four feet to one-fourth of an inch. No fences, rails, or walls, are now allowed around iudi- vidual lots in the best cemeteries. In case anything of this kind is needed, it should be a low, stone coping or a low evergreen hedge. The planting of trees, shrubs and flowers in cemeteries should only be allowed under the direction of an intelli- gent superintendent ; the injudicious bringing in of what were intended as adornments, has spoiled the beauty of many a cemetery. Flowers, as a rule, should be arranged either in beds along the drives and walks, or else on plats not used for burials. The plan of regulating somewhat the size and form of tombstones, by keeping them within certain limits, is a good one, for the wide variations that often prevail in these, is not conducive to good effects. Rules and regulations to be observed by lot-holders and visitors, should be posted up in one or more conspicuous places. These may apply to the admission of non-lot- holders ; prohibition of fast driving, driving on the grass, leaving horses unattended or unfastened, the pick- ing or injuring of flowers, shrubs, and trees, tlie feeding or disturbing of water fowls or birds, forbidding children to come in nnattendod, or persons with refreshments^ fire-arms, or dogs, or omnibuses, equestrians, etc. PART IV. CONSTRUCTING GARDENS. CHAPTER XXIX. PLANNING GARDEN IMPROVEMENTS. No one who plants ornamental trees and slirnbs, or otherwise permanently ini})rovos his land, can forsee how far the results of his work will live into the future. This thought suggests the importance of doing well whatever is doiic, as it is done but onco for an indefinite time. In building our houses, the appearance of the finished structure io thoroughl}^ studied from plans be- fore construction ; we should act as wisely with the gar- den improvements, wdiich endure quite as long. Trees and shrubs look small at the start ; they will not be so always, and after developing into conspicuous objects, we can scarcely count on replacing or moving them, if hadly located at first. Obviously the proper time to avoid bad garden effects is before the work is begun. This can be done by the help of good plans, prepared beforehand, in ample time to guide every operation in garden making. It is better to have such plans, even if procured at some cost of time and money, and if they show nothing more than the locating of the principal ob- jects, than to start work with no plan, or a poor one, and to regret the results for years long to come. "Where one prefers to make his own plans for garden improvements, the way to proceed is, to prepare a map of the place as it now is, drawing it to some scale, such as (308) PLANNING GARDEN IMPROVEMENTS. 309 sixteen or thirty-two feet to the inch. Ujion this all the existing objects, such as buildings, entrances, trees, etc, , should be located, giving each its exact position. Then with a pencil, the planning of improvements may be done, making and erasing as necessary, until something satisfactory is reached. Every object intended to be brought in should be given its proper size according to the scale. As the work progresses, the plan should often be viewed from various directions, by holding the upper surface of the paper nearly in line with the eye. This will better show how it will appear on the grounds when finished, than if looked at obliquely from above, because naturally we view our gardens not as if we were in a balloon, but with the eye, nearly on their own level. Sufficient time ought to be given to this work, so that all features may be deliberately studied in their relation to the whole. Eemember, it is always a serious matter to make blunders in planning a garden, for when the work is once executed, and the trees are growing, they will stand as monuments — who can tell how long — pointing either to wise or unwise decisions on the part of the one who made tlie pUm. To secure the best results, with the fewest chances of failure, the services of a skilled landscape architect should by all means be employed. A matter of such far reaching importance should be entrusted only to a thoroughly competent person. Tliere is no better field for ignoramuses and outright imposters, than that of gardening, because results are often years in developing, giving the imposters time enough to depart before their incompetency is discovered. As a rule, if a person can- not draw a plan that is graceful and pleasing to the eye, he is not to be trusted to plan the garden itself. This test, while generally reliable, is not always so, for a grand plan, in addition to appearing smooth and graceful on paper, must fit the place upon which it is to be 319 ORNAMENTAL GARDEKING. employed. A knowledge of materials is quite indis- pensable on the part of the architect. He should be familiar with the natures and merits of all the plants he sets out ; the proper selections to make, and the soils and exposures most suitable for each ; the effects of sunshine, shade, moisture, dryness, upon them, the sizes and forms they attain at maturity, the shades of foliage, colors of flowers, and a multitude of other things in order to pro- duce lasting good effects. CHAPTER XXX. LAYING OUT THE GROUNDS. From the time the first spade is struck, until the garden is completed, there will be frequent need of con- sulting the plan for guidance. It must be early determined where excavations for walks, foundations, etc., are to come, that the material from tliese can be utilized in rough shaping. The soil of borders for trees and shrubs, as well as of flower beds, ferneries, etc., will probably need special preparation, and that is often best made while the rough work is in progress. Any rockeries, terraces, lakes, etc., to be introduced, must be located early. All improvements and objects being in place on the map, their exact location on the grounds should be determined with the measuring tape and marked with stakes. Usually, in laying out, a place must be gone over a number of times in parts, because stakes get disturbed or covered up, and the surface keeps varying more or less during construction. While most points are readily located by measurement, this is more difficult in the case of walks and other curves, LAYING OUT THE GKOUKDS. 311 except as regards their starting places and general position. In getting the curves, the practised gardener trusts much to his eye, but a person of no experience finds this is not easy. A rope can be used for such pur- poses to good advantage, by fastening one end at some Fig. 122.— THE CURVE ROD. definite point along the line, and then drawing on it, in a way to produce the desired sweep, defining it after- wards with stakes. The curve-rod shown in figure 122 is a useful imjjlement in this work. It consists of a six-foot rod with a wire hook on one end, a, and a cross piece with holes in it at the other, c, wi'h a notch at the center, h. To use it, we start with a stake at the hook at «, and one in the notch at h, a third one is then put through one of the holes of the cross piece, say the outer one for instance. Then the rod is lifted leaving the stakes to stand, and is moved forward into position, h, d, set- ting a fourth stake at d. After this we bring into position, c, e, with a stake at e, and so on. Such a course then leaves the stakes on a good curve. By using the one or the other end of the cross-piece the curve may be turned to the right or the left, or it may be lengthened by inserting stakes in nearer the center. A simple method of laying out an oval on the ground is shown in figure 123. Two stakes are set, say at six, ten, or any number of feet apart — this being governed Fisr. 123. — forming an oval. 312 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. by the required size — around these a stout cord is placed of such a length, that when the ends are tied, a loop will be formed about one-fourth longer than the distance be- tween the stakes. By placing a marking stake in the end of the loop drawn taut, it will, with moving it around — being guided by the loop, as shown in the engraving — form a perfect ellipse ou the ground. A little experi- menting will enable one to construct a wider or narrower, larger or smaller oval. All small circles, squares, triangles, and so forth, are readily laid out with the use of line, tape measure, or ten-foot pole and stakes. CHAPTER XXXI. THE WORK ON THE GROUNDS. After a first laying out of the grounds, operations may commence, by passing over and roughly shaping them, excavating, filling in, etc., as alluded to in the last chap- ter. Whatever alterations are made in the surface, it should be laid down, as a rule never to be disregarded, that as fin- ished, at least six inches of good loamy soil — and as much more as possible — should overlay every part of the place that is to be planted or made into lawn. Wherever con- siderable cutting down is necessary, the good surface soil should first be stripped from such parts, and placed at one side, and after moving enough subsoil to effect the needed reduction, return the top soil again. In mound-making, instead of heaping up earth on the natural toj) soil, this should first be stripped, and then the body of the mound be made of subsoil, afterwards replacing the surface soil on the top. THE WORK OX THE GROUNDS. 313 Another way of doing such work, is to do it along with the operation of trenching (described in connection with fio"ure l:i4). As each section of surface soil is thrown over, laying bare the subsoil, add to or take from the latter enough material to eifect the desired grade, after- wards replacing the top layer. Where the walks, drives, foundation walls, fountains, etc., come, some earth will need excavating, and this may be nsed in general shaping. The good surface soil from such places should be kept separate and prized for use. By opening up for walks and drives at this stage, a convenient place is found for depositing any stones that turn up. If there are many of these, often the best and cheapest way to get rid of them, is by excavating deeply for walks and drives, and filling them in there; they will thus serve both as foundation and for drainage. The best season for rough levelling, draining, and other coarse operations, is late summer or fall. The earth is then likely to be dry — a great point in economi- cal moving — and no injury can possibly arise from the trampling of teams and packing of the soil by wheeling. Then, also, the earth has a chance to settle well by spring, so that the work of planting and lawn makino may be commenced early, which is a great advantage. In filling in, ample allowance must be made for settling, by leaving the ground in its loose state, somewhat higher in deep places tiian in others. In case filling in must be done in the spring, to be followed soon by finishing the improvements, the materials need to be firmly com- pacted by beating or rolling to prevent settling out of shape. DRAINAGE. The thorough drainage of the soil is important in the pleasure ground. Few plants will succeed in cold, damp, undi-ained soil, and little comfort or satisfa.ction can be 314 ORNAMEKTAL GAfiBEKlNG. had from a garden in this couditiou. Warmth and air at the roots are essential for tlieir growth, and these can never be well secured in undrained, wet soil. In tlie work of draining, usually common drain tiles, or pipes, are laid in lines twenty to forty feet apart, and three or four feet deep for loamy soils, and fifteen feet and upwards apart, and about three feet deep for heavy soils. Land naturally o])en and dry may not retpure draining. 'J'he best style and size of tile is the round, with collars, and tliese may be from one and one half to two inches inside diameter for com- mon tiles, with the cross mains two to four inches. The smaller the tiles, if they answer their purpose, the less liable are they to become obstructed, bocause the flow is more concentrated. The tiles should be so hard burned that they will give a clear ring when struck, but not over burned. It will pay to carefully examine the tiles and accept only such as come up to this standard, for soft tiles are not durable, while those that are hard burned, warped, or melted, make defective drains. Like a chain, the effectiveness of a drain is only measured by its poorest parts. Drains may also be may of rubble stone or broken rocks, two or three inches in diameter, placed to a depth of fifteen inches in the bottom of a trench. Wooden drains, made of ordinary rough boards, cut into strips four inches wide and nailed together, by using three pieces, into a triangular box or pipe, breaking the joints. These drains, which answer very well for small jobs, should be laid with a point downward like the letter V. The bottoms of drains must be even, and have suf- ficent fall throughout their length to make a ready flow towards the outlet. Generally the sewers fi-om thfe buildings may be made a })art of the sewage system of the garden, in which to lead the w^ater. THE WORK OK THE GROUKBS. 8l5 PREPARING THE SOIL. To secure a satisfactory growth of all trees, shrubs, flowers, and grass in the garden, the soil must be rich and deeply worked. That attempts at gardening may i>rove failures from other causes is possible, but lack of atten- tion to these points is the most common reason why many places never look well — all the trees and i^lants having an untlirifty, half-starved appearance. Few soils are so stubborn that draining and a thorough breaking up and manuring will not properly prepare them for planting. Such soils must be prepared by trenching or subsoiling to fifteen or more inches deep, at the same time working in from thirty to fifty loads of good stable manure to the acre. Top-dressing in alter- nate years will be required afterwards; this treatment will produce grand results with whatever is planted. If the soil should happen to be a heavy clay, or just opposite, a light sand or gravel, by mixing in some material of an opposite nature, for instance, with the clay using sand, loam, or lime, and with the sand or gravel, using m:irl, clay, peat, leaf-mould or loam in addition to the above treatment, the effect would be greatly beneficial. Deep culture promotes growth, by giving the roots ample room for extension, and the soil, if properly broken up, retains moisture the entire depth to whicli it is loosened, preventing to an astonishing degree, injury from severe droutlis. In the most ordinary method of culture, the surface soil only is overturned, leaving the subsoil below — usually of a compact sterile nature — un- broken. But when the best results are desired, the sub- soil should be broken up, keeping both the surface soil and the subsoil sei)arate. For places large enough to admit the plow, a subsoil plow, following in the furrow of the common one, and run down deep, is used to secure deep culture. In 316 OKXAMEXTAL GAEDEKIKG. smaller places trencliing with the spade takes its jjlace. Figure 124 shows how this operation is done. First, the surface soil occupying the space A, to the width of ahout six feet across the plot is thrown out entirely, and the subsoil underneath, a, is turned with the spade at the same time, working some manure into the subsoil. Then the section of soil of space B is thrown over into space A. and the soil of space b now brought to light, is treated as .^J^/lMS-J Fig. IM.— TRENCHING. that of a was. This way of procedure is followed with successive strips across the entire ground. The opening remaining at the end after the other side is reached, is filled up with the soil first thrown out. FINAL SHAPING OF THE SUEFACE. Shapeliness of the surface is one of the distinguishing marks of a good garden, be it even, crowning, or undulat- ing as to the top. In going over the grounds to apply the final touches, a careful eye to observe the work of evening-up, is in many cases all that will be needed. But where the eye cannot be trusted, or if great precision is desirable in the final contour, then a line and stakes for small grounds, and regular levelling instruments for large ones will be needed. In using the line and stakes for tliis purpose, in com- mon sized lots, first drive a stake at each corner of the lot, a, h, c, d, in figure 135, and corresponding ones at the JINAL SHAPING OF THE SURFACE. 317 corners of the house, a, h, c, d, of the same figure, all to project say two feet above the ground. Then determine where the final grade line is to be, at the point where each stake stands, marking the same on the stake. Now measure up on each stake one foot from the grade mark, and cut a notch. By next stretching a line — or sighting ■a' 1 1 ii»:' ^0 c c?l '0{ \ ;if|WllM|\|i Kg. 125.— ITNAI. SHAPING OF THE SUKFACE. for long distances — from notch to notch thus made on any two stakes, such a line — called the datum line — it is plain, will be one foot above the desired grade as marked on the corner stakes. By setting a row of stakes at in- tervals of say twenty feet between the corner stakes, along the border, and a corresponding number which will come 318 ORKAMENTAL GARDENING. closer together along tlie house as shown by the letter s in the cut, we may indicate the desired grade throughout on these, by simply measuring down one foot from the datum line at any point, provided it is intended to keep the desired grade straight. But most likely it ought to be a departure from a straight line to some extent, with probably a crowning point midway between corners. In such case, the measure should be something less than a foot, say ten or eight inches downwards on the stake at the most crowning point, and then gradually increasing the lengtli of the measure in proceeding towards the cor- ners, in order to make a generally curving contour, even if slight. With a row of an equal number of stakes between cor- ner and corner all around the lot, as well as around the house, marked with the desired grade in the manner de- scribed, we may now proceed to run lines, shown by dots Fig. 136. — CiUAGE FOR SLOPES. in the figure, across the plot between the stakes of the boundary row and corresponding ones at the house. Along these cross lines the desired grade may also be marked on the stakes, which should also be twenty feet apart. By passing over the entire grounds in this way, the new grade will be shown on stakes about twenty feet apart all over the area, and the finishing of the grading may be guided by these. It remains for those having the work in charge to de- cide on how much, if at all, the general contour shall vary from the straight line in all parts. The presence of any desired undulations here and there about the grounds, need not, with due allowance, interfere with this FINAL SHAPING OF THE SUKFACE. 319 work. Terraces and slopes may be shaped very perfectly as regards their surface on this principle^ If these are to be straight in each part, and the angles and out- lines all straight, it will not be difficult to indicate the desired grade on rows of stakes at the top and l^ottom of any slopes, and at the margins of terraces. Where the outlines of terraces are curving, a little more difficulty attends the laying out and shaping. For such work, and in fact for all cutting of slopes, the slope guage shown in figure 126 is a great help. By laying out the upper curve of the slope, marking it clearly on the ground of the upper level, and then using this guage the work of cutting down the slants is easily done. Slopes should seldom be made of a greater angle than forty-five degrees. In thus shaping up the grounds, as directed, it is calculated that at this time the soil is distril)uted pre- cisely as it shall appear when finished and clothed with grass. But if in any case the surface has become har- dened by trampling or driving, it may l)e best now to carefully go over all with a spade, or in large pieces the plow, and work it over very evenly, preparatory to receiv- ing the trees, shrubs, plants, and grass. This I repeat should be carefully done, with a view to changing the lay of the land as slightly as possible. No attention need be paid to the stakes now, as these are no more needed. In plowing this time, the soil from the first furrow is tlirown above the common level, after the piece is overturned it should be drawn into the open fur- row that is left by the plow in finishing, tliat all may become even again. A heavy harrow, along with a roller, should then be applied until the surface is thoroughly fined down. The roller serves to settle the soil, and re- veal small mounds and deficiencies which may need cor- recting with the shovel and rake. In small plats that have been spaded, the rake and hand-roller will be used in place of the harrow, etc. 320 Or.NA MENTAL GARDENHSTG. An earth float, made of a piece of common 3 by 4 or 2 by 6-incli rough scantling, with one handle, for a float nine feet long, is shown in figure 127. Two handles are needed for one sixteen feet long. This will be found to be a use- ful implement for the final shapiug of the ground, by drawing it back and forth over the surface a number of times in different directions. The walks being not yet Fig. 127.— A FLOAT. made, all stones and surface gravel can still be deposited in the openings for these. After this last plowing, all driving, and wheeling should be, if possible, confined to the drives and walks. CHAPTER XXXII. PLANTING. All things considered, spring is the best time to plant trees and shrubs, and the earlier it can be done, after the soil is dry enough to work, the better. Still with great care being observed in not letting the roots be exposed to the air for a moment more than is absolutely necessary, there is no reason why success should not follow, even v/hen the trees are considerably started. I have planted Horse Chestnuts, Maples, Japan Quince, Althaeas, and man}' others, that were in full leaf, and scarcely lost one. But when any are so far advanced as this, it is necessary to remove most of the leaves and to do the work with great PLAISTTING. 321 painstaking. The Larch, Bircli, Beech, and some others cannot be transplanted thus late with any prospect of success. All the evergreens may be set several weeks later than deciduous trees. Fall planting of deciduous trees is generally successful if done in October — there being more risk with delicate kinds than with others. This is the preferable season for setting all of the robust, hardy flowering jilants, and especially Paeonies. But fall planting of every kind should be done, if possible, as early as the month of October, in order to give tlie roots a chance to "get hold of the ground," as gardeners say, and store up some strength against the winter. Let us suppose that the stock for planting that was ordered from the nursery, has just arrived, and we find the garden not quite ready for setting them immediately. The trees should be taken from the sliipping boxes and carefully heeled-in for a twofold pur])ose. First, to preserve the roots from drying ; second, to so arrange them that the labels can be examined, and any requisite tree be readily taken out for planting. The heeling-in should be done by digging a trench about a foot deep, and two feet wide, in a convenient sjiot. The roots should be set into this trench, and fine earth sprinkled upon them, to come in contact with all parts, finishing by filling the trench with the earth first thrown out. The soil should then be firmed with the feet, so that it will be in close contact with all the roots. Success in planting depends upon not letting the roots dry. More trees are killed from this cause than most people are aware. From the time that trees are lifted in the nursery, until they are finally planted, every means should be employed to guard against drying of the roots. They often suffer when heeled-in, by having the soil too loose about the roots. Evaporation goes on from the tops, the juices dry out, and under such circumstances they cannot draw in the moisture needed to make up for 322 ORNAMENTA.L GARDENING. the loss. Evergreens, particularly, often suffer much from this cause. When ready to plant, first go over the ground with the working plan in hand, and set a stake wherever a tree or shrub is to be planted. The work may be simplified by writing the name of the kind on each stake. Holes should be dug of ample size to accommodate the roots wiien spread out naturally, and the soil should be care- fully kept in piles at the side of the holes and not need- lessly scattered. As the trees arc being set, or preferably before, they should be pruned. This oi)eration should be governed somewhat by the loss of roots in digging, but as all trees and shrubs lose some roots during that process, and as we do not know just how many, a safe rule for most kinds Avill be, to cut away about one third to one half of the last season's growth. Any long roots may be also shortened a little, and the ends of all roots that were bruised in digging, should be cut off smooth. Evergreens should also be pruned somewhat when planting them. Set the trees so that when the eartli is filled in, they will be as deep as they stood in the nursery. The prin- cipal feeding roots of the trees are near the surface, and to plant it deep is not to do the tree justice. An excep- tion to this rule is to l)e made, however, with such things as budded roses, and dwarf pears, which sliould be planted with the union of stock and cion two inches be- low the surface. The tree or shrub being in place, fine soil should be quickly sprinkled over the roots, and the plant so worked or shaken, that the earth will get well around and under- neath all of the roots. The good planter gets down and works the soil in between the roots with his fingers or with a small pointed stick, and on account of this care he seldom loses a plant. Before much soil is filled in upon the roots, it should be pressed firmly with the feet. PLANTING. 333 or even a rammer. Such firming is a most important part of the work, and prohably has more to do with the success of the planting than any other one thing. If at planting, the soil liappens to be dry, or the tree is con- siderably started, do not fill the hole quite full at once, but run water into the opening to thoroughly soak the soil, finally filling in the earth the next morning. AYhen trees are set singly, a space several feet across should be kept clear of grass for a few years. This space should be a little lower than the surrounding surface, in order that the tree may be perfectly watered in dry weather, and the soil worked. Where they are planted in masses or borders, the whole area they cover may be kept in cultivation, and the soil being in a thoroughly pulverized condition on the surface, admitting air and moisture, they will do better than they otherwise possibly could. In some grounds, especially such as have been cut down by grading, sometimes nothing but the poorest, gravelly, sandy or clayey earth is avaihible, although a facing loam from six inches upwards may be provided for making a lawn. It would be worse than useless to attempt to grow trees, shrubs, etc., in such a place without special jirepara- tion for whatever may be planted. Wherever a tree is to bo set, one half to a cubic yard of the earth should be dug out, and the opening filled in with the same quantity of good soil from elsewhere, in which the tree should be planted. AVhere groups of trees and shrubs are to be planted, the entire area may be thus treated to a depth of one and a half or two feet. 334 ORNAMENTAL GArtDENING. CHAPTER XXXIII. LAWN MAKING. There are two ways of maKing a ^awn, the one by sod- ding or turfing, the other by sowing grass seeds. For small gardens, the former is undoubtedly the best, while for larger areas, seeding is necessarily done, as it gener- ally makes a good lawn, and is much cheaper, although more time is needed to bring it to perfection. If it can be done, the ground to be put into grass ought to be allowed to settle during one or two good rains after the last grading spoken of in Chapter XXXI, and then be sodded or seeded. Otherwise some slight uneveuness may appear after thorough settling. If tlie rain cannot be waited for, the earth may be settled with the roller. An earth rammer may also be brought into use, and if it is Fig. 128. — AN KAKTIl-llA.^I.MKK AND SOD-BEETLE. found that any spots are softer than others, they should be firmed by this tool, afterwards evcning-up the surface as may be needed, by the use of the rake. Figure 128 shows an easily made earth-rammer and sod- beetle combined, that will be found useful in a garden. For firming earth it is used mostly in a perpendicular j^ositiou, striking the soil with the heaviest end ; but in setting sods evenly, these are struck mostly with one of the flat sides. It is worked out of a solid piece of five by five scantling, and aljout four and a half feet long. In laying sod, the surface of the ground should first be slightly loosened with a rake to make a bed for the grass roots, and if dry, sprinkled as fast as the turf is brouhgt. The best turf is that taken from a pasture lot or roadside, that has been kept low by grazing. That where sheep have been pastured is preferred, as these LAW^ MAKING. 325 dnimals, by their habit of biting close to the ground, de- stroy the coarse weeds. The better way of taking up the turf is to have the sods in long pieces, and to roll them up. In cutting the sod some gardeners use the line, and others a board with a straight edge, in order tluit the cutting may be accurate. The board has this advantage, that it may be a foot wide, and tlien it can serve as a guage for width without any further measuring, by cut- ting closely along the sides. First, the cut should be made lengthwise with a sharp spade or turfing iron. Then starting at one end, one man with a sharp spade should cut the roots, so that the sod will be about an inch and a half thick, the assistant grasping the end and rolling it up, the grass side inwards, keeping on as the cutting proceeds, until a roll as large as it is convenient to han- dle is gathered. Where one man works alone, he may separate the sod hy tlirusting tlie spade in from the side, afterwards rolling it up. These rolls are readily trans- ported, and quickly unrolled and laid, leaving the lawn surface with few seams, as compared with cutting the turf in square pieces. Sodding may also be as well done by using square sods that are cut about a foot or fifteen inches square. In laying the sod, Join all edges carefully, using a large knife in cutting. As the laying proceeds, if some portions of the turf happen to be a little thinner than others, soil should be worked underneath such parts. The different pieces should all l)e snugly pushed togethei' as the work goes on. After being properly laid, all jiarts should be beaten with a wooden beetle, and afterwards well rolled. All of these operations are to be followed by a heavy sprinkling of water to encourage a now growtli. Along the line of walks, drives, and borders, the turfing should be carried a little beyond the line, as it will be when finished, so tliat in dressing down the edges afterwards, the cutting will be through good, strong sod. 326 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. Where lawns are made by see;.ling, tlie work is com- menced by turfing. All along walks, drives, borders, and wherever there is a termination in the grass plat, not otherwise bounded, a strij) of tnrf about a foot wide should be laid down, as suggested in the preceding para- graph, for making a firm edge. But the ground where this edging strij) of turf comes, should be cut down the thickness and width of the sod that its surface may be even with the part to be sown. Do not remove the soil quite as deep as the sod is thick, as some allowance should be made for compression in beating. All terrace slopes must be sodded also over their entire surface. When ready to sow the seed, the surface should be passed over with the rake and mellowed up a little on the top to receive the seed. It is a common error to use grass seed too sparingly. It is better to use four or more bushels to the acre, than less than four. As to kinds, where it is known that any one sort does well, it is best to sow only that one kind, as a rule Red Top or Bent grass, or Blue grass, are generally preferred. Where it is thought best not to depend on one alone, then several kinds should be mixed. Some always sow a little White Clover with the gi'ass seed, for the greenness it maintains in drouths, but wherever lawns are kept watered this should not be added. The different grasses and their adaptability, are described in Chapter IV, of Part II. In sowing, the seed should be divided into two por- tions, half to be sown by passing over the land in one di- rection, and then, after lightly raking over the surface, pass over the piece again, sowing tlie remaining half cross-wise. After the seed is sown, the rake should be again applied lightly, or else the surface should be gone over with a brush harrow, arid after this let a thorough rolling be given. The earlier the lawn can be seeded in the spring, pro- WALKS AKD DRIVES. 327 vided the ground is dry enough to work well, the better. By sowing in March, or early in April, a resjicctahle lawn may usually be established by mid-summer. The great advantage of early sowing is, that the seeds and young plants have the benefit of spring rains and cool, growing weather. I have made fair lawns by sowing in the middle of June, in hot, dry weather, with the use of plenty of water and a sprinkler, but at best it is up-hill work at such a time. Early fall sowing is generally suc- cessful. Some advise the sowing of a thin sprinkling of oats, along with the grass seed to shade the young grass. This sometimes has a very favorable effect. As the grass starts up, and weeds with it, the mower must be kept at work on the new lawn. The weed seed lying in the ground usually comes up quickly, and will prove annoying for a while, but if the grass was sown thickly enough, and the mowing, together witli going over the lawn and cutting out coarse growing weeds, is attended to for the first season or two, the lawn will come out all right in the end. On the general care of lawns see Part V. CHAPTER XXXIV. WALKS AND DRIVES. Good dry walks and roads are a great comfort about the home. As soon as the lawn is sown or sodded, with an edging of firm turf along the roads and walks, the work of construction may commence. The first thing to do in the way of putting down walks or drives is to cut the turf edge to the exact width desired. In principle of construction there is little difference between the two ; but the walk being narrower and not subject to so severe usage as the driveway, tliere may be a little differ- ence iu details. 828 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. Stone flagging, asphaltum, and other composition walks are generally pnt down by those who follow mak- ing them as a business, hence there is no need of direc- tions concerning their construction. For ordinary walk 5 and drives in pleasure grounds, those made of gravel are most common in all but small lots, and are perhaps the best. They are comparatively inexpensive, pleasant in use and easy to make. They should be constructed with a view to firmness, and with such a shajae of surface, that w^ater from rains and melting snows will be aljsorbed or promptly pass off. The depth of excavation in making a walk, will depend somewhat on the nature of the sub-soil. If this be dry and abi;orbent, such as gravel or on high-lying rock with seams, then an excavation of a foot deep, or even less Fi?. 129.— DRAINS TO EOADS. will be sufficient for walks, and no attention need be paid to under-draining them. But if the subsoil be retentive, such as clay, and requiring drainage, tlien the depth in the lowest parts where the drains come (see fig. 129), should be about fifteen inches deep, and one foot deep in the highest parts of the bottom. Underdrainage to walks may be i)rovided as shown in figure 129, either in the center or at the sides. In this figure, two styles of drains are shown, one of tile and the other formed of stones. Often such surface drainage as is described a little further on in speaking of drives, is all that is pro- vided for walks, and with satisfactory results, making a saving in the labor of construction. Before laying any underdrains for walks, the surface of the opening should be so shaped as to descend towards WALKS AND DKIVES. 329 the drains. The drains for walks may be made to com- municate with a general system of drains. After being laid, the excavations are to be filled up with stones, large gravel and similar materials, to within four or six inches of the top. The lower layer of stones may be set regu- larly on their ends, as shown in figure 129, and if this is well done, the finer stones and gravel working into the chinks will cause them to bind. The space above the coarse material should be filled in with good gravel of a size ranging from that of peas up to that of marbles. Tliis may be obtained by screening, if gravel of the right size is not at hand. Any coarse gravel that comes from screening, may go at the bottom. In putting down the gravel, a little still firmer material, such as sand or a sprinkling of loam, or even fine clay, should be incorporated with it — all excepting a finishing coat to be laid on last — to cause it to pack. The gravel as it is wheeled in should be leveled with shovel and rake, and then thoroughly rolled with a heavy roller, wetting it freely as the rolling goes on, to aid m the packing. By such a course a Avalk can be made that will feel almost as firm to the foot as stone and be easier to walk on. The walk as finished should come up to within half an inch or an inch of the grass at the edges, and it should be rounded up to be some higher in the middle, just how much higher mny be a matter of taste, as well as one governed by the width of the walk. Straight walks are not generally made as rounding as curved ones. If we take an inch and a half as the average increase of hight in the center for a six-foot walk — going above this for serpentine walks, but a little less for straight ones, the hight will not be far out of the way. On width of walks and drives see Part III. In road making, while the general material may be the same as that used in walks, the proportions throughout are on a heavier scale. As a rule, ])rovision for draining ;:J0 ORKAMENTAL GARDEKING. rn:X^ Fig. 130. — STONE PAVEMENT ON SAND. cf I'oadways is made by surface drainage — that is, gutters are constructed along the sides, and sufficient roundness cf surface of the road is maintained to easily incline the water into these. Figure 130 shows the con- struction of a common stone pavement bedded in sand. In Europe one often meets with paved walks, made of narrow stone chips, with the surface that comes to the top, dressed straight. These pave- ments are comfortable to walk on, neat looking, and there is no wear out to them. Figure 131 represents a cross section of the favorite roadway for pleasure grounds, parks, and cemeteries, known as the Telford Road. _____„_ An excavation is made from WM^^^^sS^^^^^^^^I eighteen inches to two f oet M^_Bl2ttm deep, to receive the material f^^^^^M of the road. The body consists ^^^^^^^ of large stones set regularly over the bottom, then broken ^'S- i^i.-section of tel- , . „ FORD ROAD. stone, averaging the size oi a hen's egg, makes a middle course, and on toj) of this is placed a finishing coat of about four inches of gravel. The whole is made firm by hammering and rolling as the work proceeds. The gutters consist of small sized paving stones at the surface, set in a water-settled body of sand. In all roads or walks with gutters at the sides, as Avell as at any low places, provision should be made for carry- ing away the accumulation of surface water. For this purpose silt basins or lodges constructed of brick and connecting with drains in the ground, are placed at required points. In figure 131, the cross sectional out- line of such a reservoir is shown. It should haveamova- PREPARATION^" FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES. 331 ble silt grate on tlie top, placed on a level with or a little lower than the bottom of the gutter. The basin maybe eighteen inches or more across and three to five feet deep. The pipe connecting this Avith the drain below, should start fi'om the basin at a foot and a half or more above the bottom, and in this space, any gravel or other washings can Sink, to be removed occasionally Fig. 132.— SECTION OF by lifting the grate away. MCADAM poAD. Y\g\\xQ 132 shows a cross sec- tion of the true McAdam road, a road built up solid with small broken stones firmly rolled. CHAPTER XXXV. PREPARATION FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES. As the shelter of masses of wood in breaking the gales of winter, admit? of our growing a much larger va- riety of ornamental trees and plants, than would be possi- ble without it, so too we may further enlarge the list of suitable garden materials by attention to some of the s^iecial wants of plants as to soil and other conditions. ORDINARY BORDERS AJSID FLOWER BEDS. The soil best suited to the large majority of all flower- ing plants, shrubs and trees, is one that is not too heavy, is friable, deeply dug, and well enriched with decomposed manure. Many failures in plant-growing come from not having the beds rich enough. In making new borders or preparing flower beds, the wild garden, etc., if the soil was not well manured at the first, then a coat of two or three inches of old and line manure should be applied and 332 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. well worked in. Some fine leaf mould from the woods could not fail to be greatly beneficial. FERNS, RHODODENDRONS, ETC. The plants brought under the head of "Ferns and other Shade-loving Plants '' in Part II, as well as Khododen- drons, Kalmias, Andromedas, and some others, to do well, require a soil largely composed of vegetable matter, such as leaf mould or peat. These plants mostly have fine, delicate roots, that like coolness and moisture, hence the soil should be rather light in texture, and if not naturally so, should be improved by the addition of sand, together with other materials. A composition of equal parts of light, sandy loam, and leaf mould taken up in hollow places in dry woods, or else good peat, and all thoroughly mixed, would suit them. Good drainage is also needed for this class of plants, and yet they must never be allowed to suf- fer from excessive dryness in seasons of drouth, but should receive an occasional thorough watering at such times. Many of tliis class of plants prove to be so delightful, and do so well in a prepared soil, that it is worth while to be at some expense and pains to meet their wants by special preparation. Even if land is naturally heavy, money spent on making excavations two or more feet deep, and filling them with the soil they need, will be well spent. Most of these plants like partial shade, but some do not. Different beds may therefore be made in both tlie shade and sun, and then all can be accommodat- ed. The soil described is well suited to the Japan and other Lilies, but these require sun. THE ROOKERY, ALPINES, ETC. There is a considerable list of Alpine and other beauti- ful plants, natives mostly of high elevations, that do bet- PREPARATION" FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES. 333 ter and arc more effective if j^lanted on roclvj or other mounds than elsewhere. Tlie important points to be observed in preparing rock- eries for pkints, is to have the riglit kind of soil, and to so place the rocks that the roots of the plants can i^enetrate the soil to any desired depth. Usually the roots of this class of plants are fibrous and of great length. The soil, therefore, should be light and easily penetrable, as well as moderately rich. Some fibrous peat, leaf mould, gritty sand, and fine, sharp stones may be used in it to good advantage. Figure 133 will show the manner of arranging the stones in such places. E\en if but little space is left in any places between the stones, so long as a layer of soil Fig. 133. — LAYING UP A ROCKWOKK. extends fully through to and connects with the body of soil below, it will answer. This is the important point in making rockwork of any kind. A pocket between rocks, with but a few handfuls of earth will dry out quickly, while one of similar appearance, but with the soil opening downwards, to give the roots access to mois- ture below, will keep the plants in good order in the dryest season. Archways of rocks should be so constructed as to have some soil overlaying these, and some crevices filled with earth, however small in quantity, extending back to the body of soil; this will allow sedums, trailing tradescan- tias, and such plants to grow beautifully if started in the crevices. Most of the Alpines delight in the sun and the lack 334: ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. of much moisture, liable to occur in niounrls. But where a rockery is made in the shade, many of the ferns and wood plants are well adapted to the place. In building rockwork, the stones should be arranged with a view to suffering as little displacement from freez- ing in winter as possible. Those bnried in the soil should have a large portion of their bulk underneath the surface. The ground being generally elevated in such works, and therefore dry, there is less danger of displacements than if it were wet. AQUATICS AND BOG PLANTS. Provided the necessary water or moisture can be sup- plied, these plants in some or all of their kinds, prove in- teresting in the garden. Where there are ponds, rills, etc., in the grounds, very little pi-eparation will be needed to accommodate them. The aquatics may be planted in the water where it is about two feet deep, by anchoring their roots to a stone and allowing them to settle to the bottom together. Bog plants may be set at the borders of the water. If the ground is heavy along the shore, some sand and peat, muck or sphagnum, should be worked into it wherever plants are to be set. Sarracenias and many orchids especially, are benefited by having these ma- terials, if not present naturally, incorporated with the soil in goodly cpiantity. But it is easy to grow any of the aquatics, even the much-admired fragrant Water Lily, without having a natural body of water on the grounds. Any contrivance that will hold sufficient water, from a tank of masonry Avork to a wooden tub or second-hand barrel — a molasses cask sawed in two would be excellent — will answer to grow them. In the famous Kew Gardens, near London, there is a very successful aquarium, growing a large col- lection of hardy species^ and it consists of a simple brick GAEDEN ARCHITECTURE. 335 wall laid up witli cement, to make a water tank about two feet deep, with the walls strengthened by buttresses, at short distances apart along the sides. In artificial constructions of this kind, six or eio-ht inches of loam, leaf mould, or swamp muck, should be placed in the bottom in which to set the jjlants. They may be held in place by placing a few stones over the roots. A soil that is not naturally disposed to hold a great amount of moisture, may be prepared by adding to it such materials as sphagnum, leaf mould or peat. If such a soil is kept constantly charged with moisture by watering, bog plants may ])e made to thrive in any part of the grounds. Certain i)lants of this kind are so attractive that any at- tention paid to securing them and supplying their wants will be well rewarded. CHAPTER XXXVI. GARDEN ARCHITECTURE. Not having space in this book to treat on ( Jarden Archi- tecture at any length, I pass over the subject with only noting some brief points. Whatever is introduced, we should aim at having it of good quality and workmanship. Nothing is more an- noying to cultivated taste than a cheap effort at having something elaborate. Better have but little garden archi- tecture, even if there is room for it, and let it be well made, than to have more structures of a cheap, flimsy character. "Work simple in design, but substantial in quality, harmonizes best with garden scenery. All structures, from a stone coping to an elaborate con- servatory, should have a deep, well laid foundation. Even the garden vase or piece of statuary should not be used without a substantial foundation or base. The depth of foundations of buildings will depend somewhat 336 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. upon the nature of the soil, but six feet is safe in any place, and four feet may do for light, open soils. In set- ting copings, the pieces of which are of considerable length, foundations need only be made at the places where the joints or ends of the stones come, instead of along the whole length. Foundations for plant houses, arbors, or other wooden structures should be carried well above the surface, to ensure dryness to the sills. Abase board maybe allowed to ]>x'oject down over the stone work if it be desired, to hide it, and this can be replaced whenever it begins to show signs of decay, where it comes in contact with the ear til. All planed wood-work should be thoroughly ])aiuted or, if finished with the natur.J surface, oiled. Oil finish is very pleasing about the garden, but in time it turns to a dull, dark color, and then it may be painted. The best colors for garden work are j)lain, unobtrusive ones. The grays and browns of stones, rocks, and tree trunks, show what colors are most in harmony with natural garden beauty. Such faint colors may be aimed at, and if lightened or otherwise varied to please the taste, are usually satisfactory. The bright green often met with in urns and trellises is in poor taste. It is a color for wire bas- kets that are to be hid in a protruding lining of moss, or may be tolerated in light wire screens, to be covered with verdure, but not elsewhere. Bronze is unobjectionable for garden iron work. In employing rustic work in the garden, whether it is constructed on the grounds or bouglit ready made, let it be firmly put together, and braced with all the nails clinched. In its manufacture, the material is irregular and hard to nail or fasten, especially in hard- wood, and so far as appearances go, that which is poorly put to- gether may look as weU as the best, while in point of durability it is really very inferior, PART IV. MAINTENANCE. GARDEN OPERATIONS ARRANGED BY MONTHS. Half the secret of keeping a pleasure garden in proper condition, consists in duly regarding the little things that ought to be done, and of doing all work at the right time. In the pages which follow, the matters that relate to keeping up a garden are classified by months for the entire year, as a convenient guide to the work. It may not always be found, with our variable seasons and climate in different parts of the country, that the work under each month will be appropriate to that month for every place, but the arrangement at the least is valuable as showing about what needs doing at any time. The great merit of such a calendar is, that it enables the manager of the garden to anticipate the work, so that when the time arrives for doing, be it a little earlier or later than indicated, there may be preparations for it. CHAPTER XXXVII. JANUARY. AN OUTLOOK. At this season we stand on middle ground, between the past summer and the one to come, and it is an ex- cellent time to consider any improvements it would be desirable to make during the new year. Flower beds to be filled with bedding plants may be studied for new ar- 15 (337) o38 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. rangements of their contents, as it is desirable to make changes here at times. Plans to gnide snch work are given elsewhere, and these may be the means of suggest- ing still other forms. Some of the most attractive beds are those planned by their owners. And yet original or untried plans should always be entered upon guardedly, as sometimes plants which look well on paper, fail to be satisfactory on the grounds. Look over the lists of gar- den materials with a view to new inti'oductions. Much pleasure comes from extending ones acquaintance among trees, shrubs, and plants, and the true lover of a garden hardly feels satisfied unless making some additions to the collection every year. PRELIMINARY PROVISIONS FOR STOCK. The arrangement of the garden for the coming year being decided upon, then gunge all purchasing of stock accordingly. Where many bedding plants are to be bought, usually by going to a florist now with the lists, contracts can be made for stock to be delivered at plant- ing time, at lower rates than if bargained for at that time, besides the advantage of being able to get Just what is wanted, a thing not so sure in the spring. Any hardy nursery stock that may be needed, had better be ordered soon, as early comers receive attention first at the nur- series, and it is a great advantage to have such stock at hand early in the spring. The same principle will apply to ordering seeds, and most other supplies for the garden. OUTSIDE WORK. Little can be done outside in the garden this month in the North. Whenever mild weather allows, pruning may be done, directions for which appear under February. It is a good time to lay in a stock of manure, and cal- culations should be made for such a supply, so that some which is old and rotten may always be on hand. FEBRUARY. 339 PESTS. If rabbits trouble trees, some blood sprinkled about, or liver or bloody meat rubbed on the trunks, Avill keep them off. Mice sometimes girdle trees and shrubs under the snow, which may be prevented by trampling down the snow close to the tree. Now is a good time to trap these pests, as their food is scarce and they are easily tempted by bait. Destroy the eggs of the destructive caterpillar if any are seen around the twigs of trees, near the ends. CHAPTER XXXVIII. FEBRUARY. PRUNING DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. In the South, pruning of all kinds of deciduous growths may take place at any time in the winter, while at the North mild weather in February and Mr.rch is the preferred time with most gardeners. Pruning is an operation not invested with mystery, as is too much sup- posed. The cutting is based upon this principle: as trees and shrubs develop buds along the branches, so the cutting away of any part of a branch necessarily con- fines future growth to the remaining buds, and with the effect usually of improving both the shape and vigor of the growth. It is necessary, to be sure, to exercise judg- ment as to where the cuts should be made, and the opera- tion must also be adapted to different kinds of plants and for different purposes, but beyond this there is no secret about this matter. Trees, which it is desirable to make bushy, should have the ends of their branches cut back occasionally. Al- most the entire list of moderate sized trees may be kept 340 0K:^^ A MENTAL GARDEN^ING. of compact and beautiful })ro])ortions — ada2)ting such as would othenvise increase to be too large for small spaces — by this means. The Alders, Globe Acacias, Flowering Peaches, Camperdo wn Elm, Fountain Willow, and some others have need of a frequent or annual going over, to keep them symmetrical and shapely where such a form is desired. Eapid, slender growing trees, like the Silver and Ciit-leaved Maples, Scarlet Oaks, Weeping Linden, etc., should, while young and growing fast, be headed-in several times to cause them to grow bushy. By such a course, there will be less danger of their limbs breaking from the ice and snow which sometimes gathers on them. Trees near the house, or in streets, should usually have high heads, to allow of good views from the house and a free circulation of air. These should rarely be cut back, but a thinning out of lower branches before they become large, should be resorted to to ctfect openness underneath. In any case where large branches need pruning away, the cut should invaria1)ly be made close to the trunk. To prevent splitting of the stump and possible injury to the tree by the weight of the branch at falling, first cut or saw half through the branch from below, about nine inches out; after this saw in from the top near to the tree until the limb falls, and then make a new clean cut close to tlie trunk, afterwards thoroughly coating the surface with thick paint, melted grafted wax, or shellac varnish, to keep out air and moisture. By such means the formation of new growth over the scar is encouraged, and in time this wound may have the appearance of any other part of the trunk — a vast improvement over the horrid stubs of branches, which are often seen projecting out a foot or two from the tree. Should the coating re- ferred to be neglected, permanent injury may easily come to the tree from rain soaking in through the scar, caus- ing it to rot at the heart. These instructions may in general apply also to the cutting away of small branches. FEBRUARY. 311 111 simply heading-in small shoots of either trees or shrubs, it is well to make the cut just above and rather close to a bud, so that no wood will project beyond after the buds starts into growth. Ahnost all kinds of trees, with close-growing heads, may by pruning low at the start, be kept shrub-like in general form, with the head starting at the ground. In any large garden some Maples, Oaks, Beeches, Planes, Horse-chestnuts, etc., are very pleasing in this shape, when growing on knolls or at one side of amjjle areas of grass. In shrubs, while the careful training of some to par- take of tree-like forms, with low, clean trunks, is desir- Fig. 134.— NEGLECTED SHRUBS. Fig. 135.— SHRUBS PROPERLY PRUNED. able for the sake of variety — and almost any kind can be thus grown if pains are taken — still the bush form is or- dinarily the pi'oferable one. Figure 134 sliows forms of shrubs often met with, which liavo been allowed to grow at random and strag- gling by inattention. Lilacs, Snowballs, Purple Fringes, etc., of this shape a1)ound; by i)runing, they might ex- actly as well be kept in such i)leasing forms as are indi- cated in fignre 135. While generally, rounded outlines like these must be regarded as the finest for the flowering shrubs, each kind has })eculiarities of habit, wliich should be preserved in a measure when the knife is used among them. 342 OBTfAMilN'TAL GAEDEITIN'G. Those not familiar with the pruning of shrubs, often err from not cutting enough at each time the job is done. So l'>ng as a small number of buds are allowed to remain towards the base on any young branch of one or several season's growth, there is little danger of prun- ing too severely for the good of the jilant. In the en- gravings, figures 136 and 137, two single stem shrubs ai'e shown by the entire lines — or they may serve to represent branches at pruning time, and two places of cutting such stems, are indicated by cross lines. The first of these, figure 136, is badly cut as a timid pruner \W^ ■'If ¥ Fig. 136. Fiff. 137. BADLY PRUNED. PKOPERLT PRUNED, might do thc work. The second shows the right principle of cutting, where a fine bushy growth is desired. By cutting away only at the top, an ill-shaped, top-heavy new growth, as indicated by the dotted lines of figure 136 results, be- cause upper branches have a tendency to grow strongest. But if we make the cut away down, vigorous branches, and fewer start out, and near the base, causing a low and vigorous growth as figure 137 shows. This principle applies to the pruning of about every ordinary kind of vegetable growth, and amateurs should hs2cl it as they are about handling the knife and shears. But at the outset, in pruning shrubs, a certain diifer- ence of habit in the various kinds as to the manner of fiowering should be observed, if we would gain the best results. One clasG of shrubs produce their flowers from buds that were forme 1 in the previous season. Another clais flower from bud^, tint app3 ir on the new wood of the current season. Of the first class, those of which PEBRUART. . 343 the flower-buds are prepared beforeliand, some of the principal are : Lihics. Dwarf Almond. Weigelas. Snowy Mespilus. Mock Oranges. Leatherwood. Calycauthus. Privets. Cornelian Cherry. Viburnums. Golden Bell. Rhododendrons. Honeysuckles. Kalmias. Flowering Currant. Andromedas. Flowering Peach. Azaleas. Deutzias. Daphnes. Dogwoods. Dwarf Horse-chestnut. Japan Quince. Flowering Crab. If these shrubs are pruned at this season, the flowers will all be cut away. If the last year's growth of wood was strong, some pruning of the branches by shortening- in may be done, and yet enough buds remain for a fair show of flowers. But the best way to prune these, is to give them, once in every three or four years, such a severe heading-in, in whole or part, as may be needful to establish a good general form, and then regulate the growth year by year, with summer pruning. (8ee notes for June). Of shrubs that flower upon the current season's growth, the foUowino; are leading kinds : Rose of Sharon, or AltliEeas. Coronillas. Burning Bush. Amorpha. Hypericums. Bladder Senna. Fall-flowering Spirseas. Genistas. Hydrangeas. Roses. Flowering Locusts. The pruning of these may be as close as you choose at this season, witliout detriment to the flower crop. In- deed, most of the kinds will flower all the more freely 344 ORNAMEN"TAL GARDENING. during the coming season, if closely cut back. Some, like the Altheas and the Pauicled Hydrangea, need this every year to prevent them from growing unshapely. By discriminating between these two classes of shrubs, and adapting the pruning to the peculiar habits of each, then heeding the instructions on Summer Pruning given in June, no one ought to find any difficulty in pruning his shrubs satisfactorily. Climbers on buildings, arbors, etc., need but little, and in fact as a rule no regular pruning. If they get thin and straggling, then the free use of the knife will "work good results in the way of closer growth. Those on trellises and other places of limited extent, can be controlled to any desired degree by the use of the knife. Deciduous Hedges may be trimmed at this time. The notes under April on trimming evergreen hedges are ap- pliable in a large measure to these also. Honey Locust and Osage Orange hedges may be formed of a good size soonest by allowing the plants to grow untrimmed, until they are an inch through at the ground, and then cut- ting them down almost to the ground, somewhcit as is shown in figure 137. Such treatment causes a vigorous new growth to start up, which will develop into a well formed hedge very quickly. Such hedges in after years must be trimmed annually the same as any other kinds of hedges. MANURE. Whether gardening for pleasure or profit, the ground must not be cropped yeai- after year, not even of grass on the lawn, without returning some equivalent in the shape of manure. Hauling in a year's supply of manure may be done at any time during the winter. Every garden, unless a very small one, should have its manure-heap in some out-of-the-way, yet convenient, place. As to kinds, ■well decomposed stable manure, if it can be procured. FEBRUARY. 345 even at a good deal of trouble, should be preferred to all others. Guano and superphosphates in moderate quan- tity are well enough, but if used alone — especially in heavy land — they do not provide that openness of the soil that tends to the retention of moisture, and the ad- mission of air, so essential to perfect vegetation. Cow droppings, a year or upwards old, that have been turned occasionally to aid in decay, form the best of all ma- nures. In time it will become as fine as the soil, and provision should be made to have a supply of this on hand for top-dressing the lawn, mixing with potting Goils and other uses. Of the artificial manures, those composed largely of bone and other animal matter should be preferred. True and so-called Guanos of different kinds are in the markets, and these are mostly very good. Sometimes good street scrapings or similar matters are easy to procure; these, if allowed to lay a while, with an occasional working over, prove valuable for mixing with the soil or snb-soil. Eefuse hops from breweries, after laying awhile and being forked over a number of times, become as fine and useful a manure as can Avell be found; it possesses high fertilizing properties. The same is true of decayed leaves from the woods, excepting that it takes a much longer time for these to become reduced to a fine friable mould. RUSTIC WORK, TRELLISES, ETC. Repairing and improving of these should be done before the press of other spring work comes on. Root rustic work, having shaved surfaces, ought to receive a coat or two of linseed oil yearly. Vases, trellises, or other painted garden work may now be put in order, by cleaning and painting. Prepare new trellises in good season. Plant- boxes, stakes, labels, and such things as will be needed during spring and summer, should now be made ready. 346 ORNAMENTAL GARDENIHG. CHAPTER XXXIX. MARCH. THE LAWN. As soon as the snow and frost leave the ground, and a few dry days have taken off the excess of moisture, all grass plats should be cleaned of any remaining fall-ap- plied manure or other litter, by tlie use of the rake, and rolled to remove the roughness they usually present after winter. In many places fall manuring of the lawn is very reasonably objected too on account of the presence of the unsightly coat for so many months. Where this is the case, manure may be applied as soon as the snow leaves in the spring, and by leaving it on through the spring rains the benefits derived will nearly equal those of fall manuring, and the lawn l^e disfigured for a few weeks only. GRAVEL WALKS. Go over with a heavy roller, after the frost is gone, to settle them. Once in every tliree to five years the sur- face of the gravel ought to be turned over and rolled down again to give it new shape. SHRUBS AND TREES. There need be no hurry to uncover tender or newly planted shrubs and trees that have been protected. The alternate freezing and thawing they are subjected to in severe, late springs, is very injurious. When uncovered, they should at once receive any pruning they may need. If the general pruning of the hardy shrubs and trees has not yet been done, it should receive early attention. MARCH. 347 ROSES. After hard frcezino^ weather is over, roses shoukl be pruned. In the South this may be done earlier than March, in the North April may not be too late. When the winter covering is removed, pruning should follow; this should be governed by the kinds and the objects in view. Most of the monthly roses, such as the China, Bengal, and Xoisettes, that may have wintered safely, should be cut back to mere stunips, leaving one to three eyes on each stem. The strength of the plant will then go into these, making strong shoots, loaded with an abundance of flowers. With the Bour])ons and Hybrid Chinas, the shoots should be left with six or eight eyes, and by bend- ing down the lower shoots they will form fine heads. The Hybrid Perpetual and Jane Roses should have all decayed and weak wood cut out. Any crowded branches that will prevent the light and air from freely penetrat- ing to the center, should be cut out. The remaining shoots, which are to produce flowers, should then be cut back to about six eyes from the base, or if the shoots are very strong, a few more may be allowed to remain. The pegging down system of managing these and the Bourbon Roses is usually very satisfactory. All shoots older than those of last year, should be cut away, and these that re- main should be bent down, with the ends pegged to the ground or tied to stakes. By this treatment no other cutting back is needed, except to trim away weak and unshapely shoots. Moss Roses will bear about the same treatment as the last named class, whether grown as bushes or pegged down, and they may bo yet closer pruned. But this will not apply to the Princess Adelaide variety, which must not be severely pruned. The Yellow Roses scarcely require any pruning, fur- ther than to remove dead and weak shoots. If the plants 348 ORNAMEXTAL GARDENING. assume an unshapely form^ they should be so pruned as to make a better head, even if it be at the expense of some flowers for the following season. The Climbing Roses need only to have the poor wood cut away, and the strongest shoots shortened in. Nail and re-nail as needed, before the young growth starts. BORDERS. Early in the spring, any covering that was put on these in the full, should be removed. Do not dig the soil until it is dry enough to work up loosely. Each spring, at the first working of the soil, a little rich ma- nure — the older and finer the better, should be dug in. IMPROVEMENTS. Any contemplated garden improvements should be completed as soon as the ground will work well. Avoid working the soil when it is wet, as bad effects will be manifest for the entire season. Hodding may be done very early in the spring. ANNUALS AND BULBS. As soon in the spring as the soil will work up finely, whether now or later, bulbs of the Gladiolus for an early crop of flowers, may be planted, and seeds of most of the hardy annuals be sown in the open border. For this purpose drills from one to two inches deep should be opened, in which the seeds should be scattered along quite thickly, afterwards covering them with earth. If the soil where the drills are made is inclined to be lumpy, cover the seeds with some light mould that has been run through a fine sieve, and to which some saiul has been added. After covering, press the soil quite firmly with the back of a hoe, or by patting it with the garden APRIL. . 349 trowel. If the soil in wliich the seeds are sown is quite diimp, watering it afterwards is not necessary, but other- wise this should be done, afterwards scattering a slight covering of clean straw, hay, or mossj over the watered parts, to retain moisture and prevent baking by the sun. But this covering must be takea oif as soon as the young plants appear. Sometimes I have watered the bottom of the drill before dropping the seeds ; after covering with fine soil no fnrtiier watering is necessary ; this method has always resulted well. INSECTS, ETC. Canker worms begin to ascend the trees as soon as the ground thaws. Any protector that is so contrived that they cannot get over it, placed around the tree, is the only sure ])reventive against their ravages. Mosses and Lichens on the bark of trees may be washed off with ley or soap suds. CHAPTER XL. APRIL. PLANTING. Early April, whenever the season is open, is the best time for planting trees, shrubs, and luirdy plants, and the work should go on as soon as the soil is in good con- dition and the stock is at hand. If trees, etc., are set now while the vegetation is yet inactive, there is achance for the roots to become established in a more natural way, than if the setting is deferred considerably later, and the chances against loss are greatly lessened. Ever- greens may be set several weeks later than deciduous trees, but the s )oner even these are planted the better. For directions on planting see Part IV. 350 OEKAMENTAL GARDENlIS[a. LAWNS. New lawns may be started by seeding or sodding. Old lawns should be well rolled and thoroughly raked to I'e- move the dead grass or manure, and to liven up the sur- face. The grass will start rapidly with warm weather, and the mower should be put in action as soon as needed. PRUNING EVERGREENS. Now is a good time for this work. If Spruces, Hem- locks, Firs, Arbor Vitses, Juni})ers, and Japan Cypress, are in places too contracted to allow of their full develop- ment, they may be clipped every year and kept at almost any desired size. By thus cuttingthem they grow dense and handsome, which is very desirable, especially with that general favorite, the Norway Sjiruce, for this tree, without pruning, in time assumes an open style of growth not pleasing fur small grounds. In gardens and cemeteries it is best to treat this tree by heading it back, at about twelve feet in bight, to form dense rounded s])ecimens. The Pines are rarely better for pruning, although some liinds, like the White Pine, are very tractable under the shears. Whatever kinds are being pruned, their natural form of growth should usually indicate the shape, such as trim- ming the conical growers to a cone, and so on. As a rule, no cutting should be done further back than the last year's growth, although no harm is likely to come from so doing, if for any reason it seems best. Always cut a branch back to some strong bud, so that the new growth may start apparently from the end of the re- maining part. If the growth ought to be stopped in any direction, with a view to securing symmetry or to have the tree thicken, this may be effected without the blemish of a cut, by simply removing the center budo If any kind of evergreen is becoming bare at the base, APRIL. 351 it may be improved by severely cutting tlie leader and side branches. The beauty of an evergreen depends much upon being furnished with branches to the ground, and it is a very ungardener-like practice, intolerable to every correct notion of evergreen beauty, to prune away the lower branches and expose a naked trunk. Sometimes Pines are inclined to turn up a side shoot as a new leader. Such should be cut away, and in time the leader will come in the right place. If a leader in any conifer is lost by accident, another one may be had in its place, by tying a side shoot in an erect position. The American Arbor Vita3, some of the Firs, as well as others, are inclined to form several leaders, and if allowed to do this they will assume a bad shape. By trimming all the brandies, excepting the main one, that will be strengthened and better able to retain its position as leader. aiYERGREEN" HEDGES AXD CLIPPED TREES. The most perfect form of a hedge for pyramidal grow- ing kinds, is one that slojies more or less on the sides, as in figure 78, A, p. ^32, thus admitting sun and light to the bottom, as well as tlie top. This should generally be the form for long hedges. The same engraving gives several forms suitable for shorter hedges of various kinds. In trimming, shears should be used, and the operation may be guided by the help of a stretched line, where precision is desirable, pains being taken to give it an even, unhag- gled appearance. To allow a hedge to go un trimmed for a number of years, is certain to soon injure it beyond all remedy. Most hedge plants naturally grow to forty or more feet in hight, and to allow a row of these standing close in the hedge, to shoot up without check, is to bring disaster to the row in time. The trimming of trees that arc kept to definite forms, is not materially different in principle from that of hedges. 353 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. It should be done with care with a view to good form and evenness, going over the work several times if need he. Box Edging may be reset in April or earlier. The ground where the line is to come sliould be rendered firm by treading or beating. Then a narrow trench is cut with great precision, the unbroken i)art on the line of the desired edging. The box plants pulled apart may have the ends of roots and tops clipped off a little, and then should be set along in the trench close together, and projecting an inch above the surface of the soil. Loose soil is then filled in by layers, and firmly trodden against the plants, until the trench is full. The edging siiould have the gravel of the walk brought up against it, so that no soil will show on tlie walk side of the line. If box edging is ke})t small by cli])i)ing — say to four or six inches in bight, it may last ten years without resetting. The edgings should be clipped annually at this season. HARDY PLANTS. These are benefited by being lifted, and divided if large, and set in new positions every three years for strong growers, and every five years for others. Clumps of such kinds as make many fibrous roots and numerous buds, may be divided with a sharp spade, leaving half a dozen or more eyes on each piece. Those that have large or coarser roots need more care. A knife should be used on these, taking care that each piece of root to be reset has at least one eye. FLOWER BEDS. Those to be planted with tender bedding plants may be worked over and made friable as a preparation towards receiving the plants later. By doing this now, the ground will be in a fine condition at planting time, be- sides the beds will look better if thus treated. >See An- nuals under March, MAY. 353 WEEDS. The fight against weeds should commence with their first appearance. Some kinds, like the Chick weed, and Shepherd's Purse, start up early, and soon develop flowers and seeds, to make trouble afterwards if not kept down by cultivation. See Weeds under May. ROCKWORK. If the rocks have become disturbed by the action of the frost during winter, they should at once be put in order. HARDY AQUARIUMS. The ground in these should be kept covered with water in increasing quantity as the plants start into growth. CHAPTER XLl. MAY. THE LAWN". The care of the lawn will be about the same for every month, from now until the end of the season, and will consist chiefly in keeping it properly mown, watered, and free from weeds. When the grass grows rapidly it will he necessary to mow about every week. It is always better and more economical of labor, to cut the grass when only two inches high, than to wait until it is four or six. The present hand lawn mowers are greatly pref- erable to the scythe for mowing even quite small places. On large grounds the korse mowers may be used with economy. Still, in mowing some parts, as about thickets and treesj the scythe and sickle are indispensable helps. 354 0EXA5IEXTAL GAEDEXIXG. In rumiing a lav/n mower, the operator should be par- ticuhir to always set both sides at the same hight, so that the surface of the grass may be even when the work is done. That no lines of uncut grass should be left, ought to occur to every mower, yet lawns may sometimes be seen that show defects of this kind. WEEDS. A large share of the annoyance in gardening comes from weeds. It is really surprising how soon slight neg- lect will show multitudes of weeds iu lawn, walks, and elsewhere. A little labor judiciously applied, will easily keep a place clear of these. A great secret is to attack weeds when they are small, so small that they will not require removal when cut off. If this is done at the right time, it will be less work to keep a garden thoroughly clean than to keep it half clean. Xow weeds are gross feeders, and rob the garden plants of food and moisture. The best way to remove spreading weeds, like plantain, dandelion, docks, etc., from the lawn, is to cut them off just below the crown, disturbing the soil as little as pos- sible. Any holes that appear should be filled with earth, and the grass will soon spread over these sj^ots. By cut- ting out every tAvo weeks all that appear, every noxious weed may soon be exterminated, for no plant can live if its leafy or above ground portion is persistently destroyed every time it appears. Coarse grasses, unfit for lawns, sometimes start up from seeds carried in by the wind, and these must be treated as any other weeds. Allowing any kinds of weeds to go to seed in the ornamental gar- den is the hight of mismanagement. For ridding walks of weeds, salting is the best plan, except near the edges, where salt will kill the roots of grass or plants that come near^ here they must be hand* picked. MAY. 355 PLANTING OUT. Every year there are tliose who, in their haste to see the tender flowers in hlooni, subject them to the exposure of chilly, windy days or frosts, only to enfeeble them and injure their future usefulness. As a rule, in the North, few tender green-house plants or half-hardy annu- als should be set earlier than May 25th, while longexjjeri- enoe shows that nine times out of ten, all tender things, like Ooleus, planted as late as the first of June, will go ahead and excel in size and beauty, those that were set two weeks earlier. Verbenas, Roses, Carnations, Pinks, Stocks, and other plants that are not affected by a slight frost, may be planted out several weeks earlier. Gladi- olus, Tigridias, and Dahlias, may be planted any time in the month. Tuberoses should not go out before the 20th of the month. SUB-TKOPICAL GARDENS AND ROCKERIES. The former may be arranged for the season, and the latter brightened with tender flowering kinds, and those with showy foliage, as soon as warm weather is established. SEED SOWING. Seeds of all the hardy and half-h:irdy annuals may be sown any time during the month, and those of tender annuals after the 10th of the month, and earlier in the South. ROSES, INSECTS, ETC. Towards the end of May, and later, insects will begin to trouble rose bushes. The Rose Saw-fly, especially in its caterpillar state, known as the Rose Slug, is one of the most annoying pests, but with attention to keeping them down, the plants maybe saved from serious depredations. In the fly state they are of a shiny black color, about one- fifth of an inch in length, and found mostly on the ua- 356 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. der side of the leaves, or flying from busli to busli. The first young slugs hatch out usually about June 1st, and increase in number during the montb. Tliese are of a pale green color, almost transparent, and feed upon the leaves, which soon look as if they liad been burned. Dry slaked lime scattered over the leaves while wet with dew is a most convenient remedy that often proves effectual ; but a more sure one may be had in fre(|uently syringing the plant with whale oil soap dissolved in water in the proportion of one pound to eight gallons of water ; many of the flies cm also l)e destroyed with this solution if applied when they first appear. The Kose Chafer, or liose-bug, is a troublesome insect, a small beetle, with a slender body, tapering before and behind, measuring near three-eighths of an inch in length, and covered with ashen-yellow down. They usually appear towards the middle of June, and remain from four to six weeks. About tlie only way of destroying these is to pass over the plants daily, shake or brush them into tin vessels containing water upon which a little kerosene is floating, or they may be gathered on sheets and burned. Mildew is a fungoid growth which shows itself upon the leaves and small twigs. It has a gray mould-like ap- pearance, and seems to be invited by anything that causes the growth of tlie plant to be suddenly checked. The ordinary agent for destroying mildew is lloweis of sulphur dusted upon the leaves after wetting them, every few days, until no more is seen. Rust frequently troubles Roses in the garden, appearing on the leaves. Cut off and burn the infected branches. SUMMER MULCHING. Bordei's containing Rhododendrons, Lilies, and other plants that love coolness and moisture at the roots, should early in the season receive a heavy mulch of leaves, cut straw, bog-hay, or tanbark. JUNE. 357 CHAPTER XLII. JUNE. PLANTING OUT. Early June should see all the beds planted, as now everything may be trusted outside. Those who wait until the present month for setting out their tender plants, have the satisfaction of seeing them start off with a vigorous growth from the first. EOSES. This is the great Eose month. After the Eemontants or Hybrid Perpetuals have bloomed, by sliorteniug in the branches somewhat, tlie plants will be inclined to flower better in tlie autumn. Monthly Eoses flower more freely as a rule, for having tlie brandies pegged to the ground. Observe last month's notes on insects. SPROUTS, SUCKERS, AND '' SPORTS." All through the growing season a look-out sliould be kept for sprouts that may start up from the roots of shrubs like Lilacs, Oleasters, etc., or from strong-grow- ing kinds of stocks, such as are used for grafting or bud- ding. The stocks of Kilmarnock and other Willows, Weeping Poplar, Eoses, and many others, often throw up such shoots. These should be removed as they appear, for if allowed to get a start they draw vitality from the tree, at the expense of the budded or grafted part. Many persons are deceived by such shoots, and permit them to grow, which of course in the end can only result in dam- age or outright death to the improved and always some- what feebler part. We may sometimes meet a coarse, wild W^illow or Eose in pleasure ^round^, that made its 358 ORKAMEISTTAL GARDENI^'G. start in this way, the imijroved part of which died long ago. Some handsome shrubs like the Waxberry, bend down the tips of the branches, which take root ; the plants thus formed should be treated as weeds, unless it is desired to multiply them, when they should be removed and cultivated elsewhere for later planting. Most of the shrubs, trees, and plants, with variegated, cut, or curled leaves, are what are called "sports" — that is, they are departures from the ordinary forms of the plants, and which have been propagated for these pe- culiarities which are more or less distinctly fixed. There is sometimes an inclination in such growths to revert to the normal form, and this should be prevented by cut- ting out any parts that fail to show the peculiarity. The beautiful variegated-leaved Kerria and Waxberry, need rather close watching on this account. CONTROLLING THE HABITS OF TREES AXD SHRUBS. The Junipers of erect habit are striking garden orna- ments if of good forms. But sometimes they are disposed to spread out and receive damage by the lodging of snow in the centers. A few wires placed closely around them will obviate this troul)le, and lead to good forms. Weep- ing trees, like the American Willow, Poplar, Ash, etc., may he improved in symmetry by extending a large hoop around the tree, to which che branches are brought and secured. When a tre« is crooked or is disposed to lean from the perpendicular, it should be straightened while young, by tying it to a stake driven in at its side, or if it merely leans over, by the less consisicuous means of set- ting a short stake a little ways off, drawing the tree towards it by means of a wire, one end of which is attached to the tree by means of a leather strap, and the other end wound around the- stake. It may be noted that crooks in young tree trunks naturally decrease as JUNE. 369 the tree grows. Honeysuckles and otlier climbers, grown as standards, by stopping the leading shoots at five or six feet, should be furnished with stakes or supports as needed. SUMMER PRUNING. Those shrubs which flower on last season's growth (see Pruning under February), and wdiich if pruned severely in winter, are robbed of flower buds, may have their growth controlled by summer pruning. This is best done by shortening back the old wood just after flowering, cutting out entirely any branches that seem to be useless and in the way. By these means a free growth of young wood for flowering the next year will be j^romoted. Then later, throughout the growing season, any shoots that grow too rank may be pinched back to control the form of the shrub. The tendency of Fir trees to run up tall and lose their lower branches, may be overcome by cutting back the leading shoots occasionally. Early summer pruning of the Norway Spruce, cutting away one half of the young growth now, will lead to the starting of many side buds on each, causing the tree to become very compact. HEDGES AND CLIPPED TREES. Any treatment that tends to check the growth of these, without impairing healthfulness, is desirable. Shearing either evergreens or deciduous kinds, just as the present season's growth begins to harden, has some such an effect. THE LAWN. Pains should be taken to have it well and evenly mowed. Keep all verges properly clipped along tlie walks, borders, av.d buildings. To leave tins undone, is to give a place a slovenly appearance. See under May and July. 360 oekame:ntal gardenikg. walks and drives. Keep them clear of weeds and litter. Eoll those of gravel occasionally, and keep the edges tidy. Sprinkling the walks tends to agreeable coolness. BORDERS AND FLOWER BEDS. Tender bedding plants of every description should now be out. Hyacinths and Tulips produce better flowers if the bulbs are lifted after the foliage begins to wither, keeping them in a dry, cool place during summer, and resetting them again in October. Annuals that were sown in the bordei', should be thinned where they are crowded. Work the soil frequently to keep down weeds, and promote the growth of t!ie plants. Small borders kept open around trees, need careful attention as regards this. See Flower Beds under July. MISCEILANEOUS. Save seeds from Pansies and other plants, and for fall flowers of Pansies, sow towards the end of the month. In the Wild Cxarden remove, or keep in check, coarse weeds. Keep Hardy Plant Aquariums supplied with watt^r. Peg down Verbenas and Monthly Koses. Any young trees of a delicate nature are benefited by having tlieir trunks protected from the hot sun for a few years, by matting bound around them, and a mulch over the roots. Pro- vide Sweet Peas with trellises, and all other climbers with the needed support. INSECTS. Sometimes the white grub works much damage to the roots of plants. If plants in the beds or Ijordor that were healthy, are seen to turn yellowish and cease growing, JULY AKD AUGUST. 3C1 suspect the presence of the white grub and dig down, find, and kill it. Angle, and other worms, sometimes trouble lawns, and may be killed by slaking a half peck of lime in a barrel of water, and after it is well settled applying the clear liquid freely with a watering can. This lime water will also destroy the aphides that attack the roots of trees or plants, and in fact all soft bodied worms and insects, and do the most delicate plants no harm. If Plant Lice or AVooly Aphides appear on the stems and leaves, bend these down into a pail of tobacco or (piassia water ; if on the trunks and branches, use a brush, and vigorously apply the liquid. Ants are often troublesome, and may be destroyed by putting some fresh bones or a sponge saturated with sugar water in places where they resort, and after they collect upon and cover these, which they soon will do, drop them into boiling water or burn them. This should be repeated until all the ants are gone. CHAPTER XLIII. JULY AND AUGUST. SUMMER WATERING. Nothing can go farther towards making our gardens pleasant in summer, than to have the grass, plants, and trees in green, vigorous condition during the hot, dry spells, so common at this season. Where water is plenty this is easily accomplished. In watering lawns, means must be provided to conduct the water to all points where it is needed, and a contrivance must be provided for dis- tributing it properly. Stands and distril)uting nozzles for this purpose are for sale by dealers. Late in the day is the best time to have the sprinkler in operation. Ter- 16 'SQi ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. race slopes require some extra care, to have them properly watered at this season. Trees and shrubs if thoroughly watered at times during dry weather, will repay the trouble, in greatly increased growth and beauty. Thorough watering is tlie means of getting large trees in a few years. The best time to water trees is during or immediately after a rain, because the atmosphere being then cliarged witb moisture, water at the root does more good. Water thorougbly by giving each tree a half dozen or more bucketfuls. If there is no depression around the tree to hold water, puncture the soil with the tines of a spading fork, for a space as far across on t4ie ground as the top of the tree is wide. In cultivated borders, the soil can be drawn back from each plant or tree to be watered, forming a basin about it, and filling it again and again witli water, until there is enougb. The next day the basin may be covered, and the surface of the soil mellowed with a rake. In watering Flower Beds, where plants stand close to- getber, the digging fork may be used for puncturing the soil to admit the water. Rockwork and the out-door fernery Avill refpiire occasional waterings during dry weatber. Supply hanging baskets, plant boxes, and vases with plenty of water at all times. Enough water should be used on these to thoroughly moisten every por- tion of the soil each time it is applied. Do not be satis- fied when the surface looks wet, but be sure the earth is soaked to the very center. Where there are no jiublic water-works and connections for summer watering, every garden should have a handy water- barrow. For large grounds, the best form to choose is one with a removable tub, so that while one tub IS being emptied another may be filling. The pumping of water by wind or other power into tanks sufficiently elevated to give a head for forcing the water through pipes and hose, all around a i^lace, is easily arranged, JULY AND AUGUST. 363 affording a complete, economical, and independent water- works in every garden. FLOWER BEDS. These ought now be nearly or quite at their best, and the keeping of them in presentable shape will be one of the chief cares at tliis time. Carpet beds should be gone over every week, and the plants carefully clipped with a view to keeping them low and solid, and maintaining clearly defined lines between the different kinds in the design. This is work upon which a great deal of skill may be expended. Common shears, or sheep shears, having a spring to open them, are used. All clip- pings should be removeLl, as well as any weeds that may start up. To reach all parts of beds that are closely covered, a bridge consisting of a large plank supported at the ends mu.st be used. Cut away the fading flowers of all plants ; if allowed to ripen seed, the flowering will be impaired — besides, faded flowers mar the beauty of collections. Double Balsams are more attractive if they have some pruning. Leave one, three, or five branches, as best suits the fancy, and cut away the others. If the first spikes of strong Gladiolus are cut when fairly in flower, they will usually throw up a number of new spikes. SEED SOWING AND PLANTING. . There are a number o^ hardy plants that ripen their seeds by mid-summer, and if it is desired to propagate these, the seeds should be sown soon after they are ripe, or any time before the middle of September. Then the seedling plants will be strong enough to winter over in safety and flower the next season. Sow in a seed-bed of fine soil; keep watered and shaded until the plants ar^ up. The Common or White Lily {Lilimn candidion). 364 ORKAMEKTAL GARDEKING. should be transplanted now, as this is its natural season of rest. MISCELLANEOUS. Read instructions cu care of lawn, walks, weeds, etc., of previous months. Dahlias, Gladiolus, Hollyhocks, and all tall-growing plants, should be provided with stakes as needed. Let them be simple, neat, and painted of some inconspicuous color. Remove the seed-pods of Rho- dodendrons early after flowering. Borers in Acacia and fruit trees should be dug out, whenever there are signs of their presence near the root. Aquariums must be kept filled with water to make up for evaporation. On Summer Pruning read the notes under June. CHAPTER XLIV. SEPTEMBER. EARLY FROSTS. In this month, in many parts of the country, we may look for the first touches of frost. As there is usually a good deal of fine, warm weather after the first frosts, flower-beds, plants, vases, etc , should be covered on nights when frost is threatened, with a view to keeping up the beauty for such later delightful spells of weather. PLANTING DUTCH BULBS. Planting at the approach of the fall and winter season seems so contrary to the general order of things to many, that this, the only course for securing fine collections of Tulips, Hyacinths, etc., is often neglected. The plant- ing of such bulbs may be done at any time during the OCTOBER. . 365 months of September, October, and November, or even later, provided the ground remains unfrozen. It is best, however, to not defer the work much after the first of October, Set Tulips five or six inches apart, and about five inches deep. Hyacinths may be planted six or eight inches, and Crown Imperials at a foot or more ajDart, and at the same depth as for Tulips. Crocuses and Snow- drops need not lie more than two or three inches apart, and about the same depth. Planting these in clumps is the most effective way to arrange them. Crocuses and other low-growing kinds may be planted about the lawn in the grass, and will thus produce a pleasing effect early in the season. HARDY PLANTS. Such kinds as have finished flowering and are past active growth, may be taken up. divided, and reset dur- ing this month and the next. See notes on these under April. By doing this early, the replanted portions have a chance to become established l)efore winter, and flower better the next year than if divided in spring. This is particularly true of Peonies, which should be divided in October. CHAPTER XLV. OCTOBER. THE LAWN. Grass usually grows with vigor during this month, and the mowing must be kept up as needed. Because the end of tlie season is near, do not allow weeds to start up and disfigure the grass plat ; keep late weeds from the walks, drives, and borders, 3G6 ORNAMEiq^TAL GARDENING. BORDERS AND FLOWER BEDS. Read the directions on Bulb Planting and Hardy Plants for last month. Take np Tuberoses, Dahlias, Gladiolus, Cannas, Caladiums, Tigridias, Madeira Vines, Brythriuas, a few days after the frosts have blackened the plants. All of these, exceijting Erythrinat,-, shouhl be dried off in the shade, and when perfectly dry, stored r.ntil spring. The best place for them is one that is cool an 1 dry, and there is nothing better to jiack them in than dry sand. Gladiolus and Tigridias may go into paper bags. As soon as the tlowcr-beds become disfigured l)y frosts, clear them, coat the surface with manure, and dig them over for the winter, leaving tlie clods of earth from the spade or digging fork unbioken during this operation, so that the air and frost may have full effect on the soil during winter. The freezing of the water, held by the earth in this shape, causes its small particles to be rent asunder, just as the freezing of sap in plants lacer- ates the vessels, and makes the texture of tlie soil more friable the next year. In borders, where shrubs and hardy plants are growing, tlie digging should not be done near to them so dee])ly as to injure the roots. AUTUMN SEED SOWING. Early in October, seeds of Sweet Alyssnm, Callirrhoe, Candytuft, Centaurea, Clarkia, Larkspur, Lupines, Mig- nonette, Nemophila, Portulaca, and lawn grasses, may be sown wherever the soil is well drained and not heavy. Then they will start up early in the spring, and in the case of the annuals, will flower freely, much earlier than will spring sown ones. In the South and on the Pacific Coast, all hardy and half-hardy annuals may be sown in the fall, and Gladiolus be planted. OCTOBER. S67 SEEDLINGS. Pansies and other plants from seeds sown in the sum- mer, will be showing up well by this time. Early in the month they may be pricked out into beds of fine soil, at a distance of several inches apart each way, to allow them to develop into strong plants by winter. These, in the spring, may be set where wanted for flowering. Pricking out or tlibbling small plants is frecpiently done in the garden. The dibble may be merely a smooth-pointed stick for small plants, as large as a finger. In using the dibble a hole is made, and in tins the seedling is held, while the dibble is thrust into the soil a second time, in a •way to crowed tbe earth firmly against the roots, after- wards pricking a little soil into hole number two, to even the ground. If a tiji of a leaf will break wbeu i)ulled, without bringing up the plant, it is considered firmly enough planted. After being thus set, the plants should be well watered. IMPROVEMENTS. Usually, now is the season of the yciTr to make improve- ments and alterations, in the line of grading, draining, trenching, etc. The soil is often dry at this time, and the air cool and bracing, a state of things under which men and teams will do almost double the work they would if land is loaded with water, and the weather dis- agreeable. Trees, shrubs, and hardy plants may be planted in October, where everything is ready for it. The earlier it is done after the tenth, the better, in order that tliey may gather up strength before winter. If the leaves re- main at planting time, they should be stripped off before taking up the trees, etc. Evergreens seldom do well planted in the fall. 368 OENAMEJSTAL GARDENING. CHAPTER XLVI. NOVEMBER AND DECEMBER. FALL MANURING. Every other year, or every three years, the lawn should receive a top-dressing of manure, and provided the right article of this is at hand, the fall months is the best time to apply it. The best top-dressing is an inch deep of thoroughly decayed manure, and if so old and fine that there will be nothing left to rake off in the spring, all the better. Objections to fresh manure are its offen- siveness, and that it is liable to contain weed seeds, which will make trouble. If such manure is at hand, the apply- ing of it may be deferred until Felnniary or March, for the sake of not having it on so long, while some prefer that time for applying any kinds of fertilizers. Bone manures are excellent for the lawn and free from weeds. Manure should also be applied occasionally as a surface dressing under plantations of all evergreen and decidu- ous trees and shrubs. Put on several inches here, and it will tell in increased vigor very perceptibly. Where it is desirable to do an extra job on specimen trees, the sod may have four or more cuts made into it in diverging lines from the tree, as far out as the limbs extend, and then each section of sod between the cuts be lifted and rolled up outwards all around, so as to expose the soil below. Then remove three or four inches of the soil, throw in some fine old manure at the bottom of the opening, and afterwards fill in the earth again and roll the sods in their place, to firm them down. FALL PROTECTION. The best time to apply any fall protection is in the last days before winter sets in, which is usually about the latter part of November. There are many trees, shrubs, NOVEMBER AND DECEMBER. 369 and plants, that are liardy after they become well estao- lislied, and the roots have had a chance to ])ush below tlie frost line, that j^hould be protected for a few years. Partial protection, by covering the surface over the roots with a mulch of straw, hay, or leaves, will be all that is needed by many kinds. Such a covering, four inches thick, is enough, and more might cause mildew. 8hrubs that are tender, should also be protected with straw or matting above the ground. Bring the branches together, lash a cord around them, and place the straw about them for their entire length, completing by winding strong twine around the whole with the turns at short distances apart. If a tree with branches too large to be brought together into one bundle, is to be protected, then a num- ber of different bundles may be made, afterwards drawing these together somewhat and binding them. Roses and other plants that can be bent to the ground, by taking away a spadeful of earth at the root on one side, may be protected by com])letely covering them with six inches of soil. Many evergreen trees cannot well be brought together to bind with straw ; these may have boughs of any kind of evergreens placed over and against them to keep olf sun and wind, which more than anything else injure evergreens in winter. A hood, made of seven-eighth inch matched stuff, as shown in tigure 138, may also be used for such purposes. The lower growing evergreens may be covered by strewing Fiff. 138.— straw over them. Globe-headed ever- A PLANT HOOD, grecus, like the dwarf Arbor Vita?s, and some others, are at times liable to suffer from snow lodging in the tops, causing the branches to spread out of shape. This may be prevented by nailing two boards of a suit- able length into the form of a letter V, and then invert- ing this over them, lashing a cord around both, to bring 370 ORNAMENTAL GAKDENING. in the side branches somewhat. In i)rotecting with ever- green boughs, thrust the ends iuto the earth, so that they will freeze fast and keep their positions. Hardy Plants in the borders are benefited by a slight covering over the roots during the winter. In nature they are usually protected by leaves. Cover the surface with a light coat of straw, coarse manure, or leaves, and the plants will flower all the stronger for it. Fall-planted bulbs, like Hyacinths, should receive special attention in this respect. Such rather tender plants as Pampas Grass, the tender kinds of Liatris, Erythrina, Tritomas, etc., may be lifted and stored for the winter in dryish earth in the cellar, or any cool })lace where it does not freeze hard. Artificial plant atjuariums and fountains, that are in danger of being damaged Ijy the water in them freezing, should have it emptied, and a shed of boards placed over the basins to keep out wet and snow. Before putting on this cover, fill up beneath with some straw or leaves, to keep the frost from injuring the masonry. Heavy snows may injure shrubs and trees, if allowed to remain on them. Shake out accumulations of it, that are liable to freeze fast or turn into ice. If sleet gathers on the trees and there is danger of injury to them, prop up the branches in good time to obviate this. Young trees in jdaces subject to sweeping winds, should be se- cured to stakes in the winter, to prevent injury by their being whipped and wrenched about. INDEX. GENERAL INDEX. Alpine Plants 332 I Annuals, hardy, sowing 348 | Selections 156 April. Operations in 349 Aqnatic Plants 3;34 Arcliitecture, American 14 Arranijenienl 161 Associations, Rural Improvement 300 Ausf list. Operations in 3H1 "Beautiful Paris." a model 281 Beds, Raised Geometric 214 Beetle, Sod 324 Bird Houses 243 Boat Houses 244 Border, Arabesque 216 Ribbon 215 Scroll 215 Borders 331 Bt>rders and Flower Beds .360 Boulevards, Garden 288 Boulevards of Paris 282 Boundaries, Planting of 196 Boundary Wall, Hidden 177 BoxEdu'ins .352 Bridge of Rocks 226 Bridircs 242 Carpet Bedding 207 Carpet Beds. Plants for 213 Cemeteries, Garden.. 301 Cliurch Yards 275 Cities. Shade Trees in 20 Climbers as Festoons 205 as Screens and Arches 204 on Arbors 203 on Fences and Gate-posts 200 on Houses 201 on Veiandas 203 Pruning of 344 Uses of 169 Clipped Trees 22.3-.3.51 Clover, White 24 Conservatories 245 Conservatory, Detached, Gothic 245 Conservatory over Bay Window 271 Coping, Stone 238 Corners, Designs for 215 Curve Rod ... .311 Carves, to Lay Out 311 December, Operations in 368 Draining 313 Drives 327 Dutch Bulbs. Planting of 364 Evergreens, Pnminsr of 3.50 Farms. Tree Planting on 18 February. Operali'Mis in 3.39 Fence, Tight Board 239 Fences 2.36 Hurdle 2:37 Sunken 177 Ferns, Hardy 218 Ferns, Soil for 332 Fertilizers ;345 Float for Leveling 320 Flower Beds 331-363 and Borders 366 Designs for 211 Location of 216 Flowers, Misuse of 209 Flowering and Ornamental Plants. 206 Fountains 230 Front Lots, Adorning Small 249 Frosts, Early 364 Garden Architecture .335 Gardening, Ornamental, American Progress in 12 Literature of 11 Materials of 23 Past, Present, and Future 9 Profits of. 16 Requirements of American 10 Time Required for Eflfects 21 Gardens, Constructing 308 Hospital and Asylum 275 Hotel 277 Public Town 280 Railroad Station 278 School 273 Grass, Creeping Bent 24 Dog's Tail 24 Green or June 24 Kentucky Blue 24 Perennial Rye 24 Red Fescue 24 Red Top 24 Reed Canary 24 Rhode Inland Bent 24 Sweet Vernal 24 Tall Fescue 24 Yellow Gal.. 24 Grasses 24 Af/rostla alba. var. stolonifei^a.. . 24 AgivMif: viUoaris 24 Anthio.ranthiimodm'atum -4 Avenu Jiave!i(X.ns 24 Cyno.oiru^ crista/us 24 Festiica elafior 24 Fesftica mina, var rubra 24 Ijilhimperenne 24 J'halaris arvndi/iacea 24 P(M pratens/ji 24 Gravel Walks, Care of. .346 Green-hoii^e. Lean-to 246 Grotto, Artificial 224 Ground, The, and the Grass 23 Grounds, A Corner Lot 2.53 A Deep Front Lot 251 Adornment of Small 247 and Street Level... 170 (371) 372 ORJ^'AMENTAL GARDENING. Gronmls.Biiffalo Paik.Grounds near.262 Final Sliapiiii,' 316 ■ Farm made Park-like 263 Five and one-half Acre Garden. 255 Four Acres on Hillside 255 Garden Front to Row of Houses.259 Laying Our.... 310 Tliree-fourths of an Acre 254 Three long Lots form a Joint Garden 260 Work on 312 Hanging Baskets 268 Hardy Plants 351-365 Hedges 231 Evergreen 351 Pruning 344 Stiles for 233 Higiiways, Planting 298 Home Buildings 166 Hood for Protecting Plants 369 Improvements, Planning 308 Insects 361 Canker Worms 349 January, Operations in 337 July, Operations in 361 June, Operations in 357 Lakelet, Improved 228 Lawn, Care of 346-.S53 Grouping on 191 Seeding 326 Lawns, French Method with 217 Major and Minor Einbelli!^hinents..l62 Manure 344 Manuring, Fall 368 March, Operations in 346 M;iy. Operations in 353 Miscellaneous Natural Materials. ..160 Mulching. Summer 356 Nature as a Teacher 161 November, Operations in... ...368 October, Operations in .365 Ovals, to Form 311 Parle, Central 292 Parks, Small Town 294 Pests 339 Plant Houses 245 Plant Vases, Boxes, etc 268 Planting, Manner of. .322 Planting, Time for .320 Plants, Aquatic and Bog .3.34 Plants. Plantingout Tender .355 Paris, Past, Present, and Future.. 2S3 Parks, Public 279 Protection, Fall .368 Pruning Deciduous Shrubs .341 Deciduous Trees 339 Summer .359 Rabbits and Mice 339 RlKKlotlendrons 332 Rill. Improved 229 Road-making ,329 McAdam 330 Stone in Sand .330 Telford 330 Rock Archway 224 Border 221 BridL'e 226 Garden 221 Rock Grotto 224 work 220 work. Making 333 Rocks, Substitutes for 227 Roof Gardens 269 Roses 347 Insects on 355 Rural Improvement Association .300 Rustic-work 336-345 Seat, Folding 240 Garden, Shaded 239 Stone or Marble 240 Seedlings 367 Seed Sowing .363 Autumn 366 September, Operations in. . 364 Shrubs, Comparative size of 25 Deciduous 27 Rate of Growl h of 21-22 Scatterings of 195 Use in Small Places. 252 Utility of. 185 Slopes, Gauge for 319 Snows. Danger from 370 Soil, Preparing The 315-331 Sports 357 Stiles 233 Siruetiires, Foundations for 336 Sul)iropjcal Gardens 218 Suckers and Sprouts 357 Summerhouse, Rustic 241 Sm-nice. The 167 Tender Perennials 159 Terraces, Shaping 319 Town Squares, Small 297 Towns, Park System for 287 Trees and Shrubs, Controlling Hab- its of 358 Trees, Clipped 223 Comparative Size of. 25 Deciduous 27 Future Size of 197 GroupiiiL' of 186 Heeling-in -.3-Jl Planting in Cities 20 Plantins: on Farms 18 Rate of Growth of 21-22 Trees, Shrubs, ana Flowers. Group- ing of 189 Trellises 345 Trenching 315 Turf, Cutting, and Laying 324 Undulating Borders 168 Walks 327 and Drives 177 as Embellishment 181 Curved and Straight 178 Objective points in 182 Wall of Brick 238 WatiT Fowl 231 Water in Gardening 227 Trees near. 230 Watering in Summer 361 Weeds 354 Wild Garden 218 Window Boxes for Plants ... .297 Window Gardens 255 Woodwork, Care of ,,,..336 IKDEX. 373 INDEX OF TREES AJfD SHRUBS. Acacia, Japanese 50 Ailautbus 53 Alder, Black 83 Common Cut-leaved 55 European 54 Haw I horn-leaved 55 Hoary 55 Imperial Cut-leaved 54 Linden-leaved 55 Oak-leaved 55 Red-leaved 55 Speckled 55 Almond, Double White (U Dwarf 64 Flowering 64 Andromeda, (.'atcBby's 97 Free Blooming 97 Marsh 97 Angelica Tree 73 Apple, Flowering 60 Aralia, Mandschurian 72 Arbor Vitae, American 107 Buisl's 108 Burrow's lOS Chinese 110 Golden 110 Rollin^on s 110 Weeping Chinese 110 Dwarf Dense 108 Geo. Peabodv 108 Globe-headed 108 Hacker"g 109 Heath-1-aved 108 Hiiopes' Dwarf 109 Hovey"s lOS Nee's Plicate 108 Oriental 110 Parsons' 108 Queen Victoria's 108 Round headed 109 Siberian 108 Tom Thumb 109 Upright 108 Vervsene's 108 Weeping 108 Ash, American White 44 Aucuba leaved. -i4 Bosc's 44 Cloth-like leaved 44 European 45 Dwarf Crisp-leaved .45 Dwarf Globe-headed 45 Golden-harkod 45 Hooded le.ivod 45 Single-leaved 45 Variesat 'd-leaved 45 Weeping 45 Willow-leaved.. . 45 Flowering 45 Gold-spotted-lcaved 44 Rufous-liaiied 44 Showy 45 Walnut-leaved 4J Weeping 45 Aspen. American. 35 Large American Weeping 35 Azalea, Clammy 95 Flame-colored 95 Hybrids 95 Oriental 72 Purple 95 Smooth 95 Balsam Fir 104 Barberry, American 86 European 86 Evergreen 117 Purple-leaved 86 Violet-lruited 86 I Bass wood 46 Bayberry 98 Beech 40 American 41 Broad-Kaved 41 Copper 41 Cri'Sted-leaved 42 Cut-leaved 42 European 41 Fern-leaved 42 Golden Variegated 41 Large-leaved 41 Purple-leaved 41 Purple. Rivers' 41 Weeping 41 Bilsted 53 Bireli, Canoe 5" Clierry 57 Ciit-leaved Weeping 57 Downy-leaved 57 Elegant Weeping 57 European, White 56 Graceful Weeping 57 Indian Paper 58 Nettle-leaved 57 Paper 57 Purple-leaved 57 Pyramidal .57 Sweet 57 Yellow . 58 Young's Weei)ing 57 Black Alder &3 Blaekberrv, Cut-leaved 94 Double 91 Bladder-nut, American 81 Asiatic 81 European 81 Bladder Senna, Alej)po 81 Common 81 Oriental 81 Box 117 Box Elder 40 Bi amble. Purple 94 Wliite 94 Bucktliorn 68 BiirninL'-busli.. 73 Rroad-leaved 73 European 73 Purple-leaved 73 Butternut 36 374 OENAMEKTAL GAKDEinNG. Biitton-bush 83 Button-wood 37 Buckeye 32 Dark Red 33 Dwarf Pendulous 34 Flesli-colored a3 Long-racemed 34 Ohio 33 Purple 34 Small 34 Whitley's 34 Yellow 33 Callicarpa 85 Caiycanthus 84 Cai'agana TO Carolina Allspice 84 Catalpa, Bunse's 43 Common 42 Dwarf, American 43 Golden 43 Hardy . .. 43 Ki3emj)feri 43 Cedar, California White 107 Deodar 107 Indian 107 Japan 107 Mount Atlas 107 Lebanon 107 White 106 Dwarf 106 Variegated 106 Cercidiphyllum 50 Cherry. AucnUa-leaved 63 Douhle-floweriuij 63 European Bird 63 Weepiner 63 Cinquefoil, Shrubby 98 Clethra 85 Acuminate-leaved 85 Clethra, Alder-leaved 85 Corchorus 97 Cornelian Cherry 67 Variegated 67 Cotoneaster, Box-leaved 88 Downy 88 Frigid 88 Loose-flowered 88 Money-wort-leaved 88 Round-leaved 88 Crab, Chinese Double, Rose-flower- inir 60 Garland, Flowering (iO Rivers' Semi-donble (il Currant, Crimson-flowered 87 Gordon's 87 Missouri 87 Yellow-flowered 87 Cypress, Lawson's 106 Pyramidal — 106 Silver-leaved 106 Upright 106 Variegated 106 Weeping 106 Nootka Sound 106 Deciduous Cypress. . . ^-i Chinese Weeping 52 Weeping .52 Deutzia, C'renate-leaved 96 Deutzi.T, Graceful 95 RoUirh-leaved 96 Dogwood, Alternate-leaved 66 European 67 Flowering 66 Osier 67 Red-branched 67 Red Siberian 67 Round-leaved 66 Weeping 66 Elder, American 71 Cut-leaved 71 European 71 Golden-leaved 71 Variegated-leaved 71 Elm 27 American, White 27 Ash-colored 29 Belgian . 28 Blandford's 29 Broad-leaved 29 Cornish 28 Dampier's Pyramidal 29 Dove's 29 Eniilish 27 Berard's 27 Cleinmer's 27 Cork-barked 27 Cui'led-leaved 28 Golden-leaved 28 Nettle-leaved 28 Plume-like 28 Purple-leaved 28 Serrate-leaved 28 Twigiry 28 Variei;ated-leaved 28 Wehb's Curled-leaved 27 Weeping Cork-barked 27 Weeping, Small-leaved 27 Monumental 28 Red 29 Superb 29 Scotch 28 Crisp-leaved Weeping 29 Huntingdon's... 29 Rough-leaved Weeping 29 White Margined 29 Slippery 99 Weeping 29 Weeping.. 27 Weeping Camperdown 28 Wych 28 Exochorda 89 Fir, Hudson's Bay Dwarf 105 Pinsapo 105 Flow-ering Apple .. 60 Forsythia. Fortune's 84 Very Green 84 Weeping 84 French Mulberry 85 Fringe-tree, Virginian 66 Garl.md Flower 98 Golden Bell 84 Golden Chain 64 Ginkgo 48 Bioad-leaved 49 Variegated-leaved 49 Hackberry.. 60 INDEX. 375 Hackmatack 44 Hazelnut, Americau 84 Oonstaiitinople 85 Cut-leaved 84 Purple 'leaved 84 Hemlock Spruce 104 Dwarf 104 Dense 104 Sargent's Weeping 104 Small-leaved 104 Hercules" Club TS Hickories 36 Hiclv>ry. Common 3*j Shell Bark 36 High Bush Cranberry TC | Hobble Bush 77 | Holly, American 113 \ Honey Locust 59 j C.ispian. 59 Chinese 5i) Thornless 59 Weeping 59 Honeysuckles, Bush 77 English Fly 78 Fragrant 77 Ledebour's 77 Mountain 78 Standish's 78 Tartarian 77 Hop-Hornbeam 65 Hop-Tree 72 Hornbeam. American 65 I English 65 Hop 65 I Horse-ciiestnut 3"2 Chinese 33 ] Cut-leaved.. .. 3-i European 32 Double Red 33 Double White 32 ; Van Houtte's Dwarf 32 j Memmingan 56 Paper 56 Red 55 White 55 Nettle Tree, American 60 European 50 Nut bearing Trees 36 Oak. Burr 30 Chestnut T 30 Cut-leaved,... 30 Enerlish Royal 30 Contorted leaved. 31 Curled Pyramidal 31 Cut leaved 31 Dark leaved 31 Golden-leaved 31 Laige-leaved 31 Louett's 30 Purple-leaved. . 31 Pyramidal 31 Silver-leaved 31 Weeping 31 Japanese. 31 Mongolian 31 Mossy-cup 30 Pin 30 Red 30 Scarlet 30 Shingle 30 Soutiiern Over-cup 30 Swamp, White 30 Turkey 31 White 30 Willow 30 Oleaster, European 82 Garden 82 Silver-leaved 82 Osage Oraui^e 61 Paper Mulberry 56 Paulowniii 56 Peacli. Blood-leaveil 64 Flowering 64 Pea-tree, Arl)orescent 71 Chinese 80 Sil)erian 70 Pepperidge 54 Peisiininon, American 59 European.. 60- Japan 60 Pine. Austrian 99 Benthani's 100 Back 99 California Mountain 101 Cluster 100 Corsiean 99 Dwarf, or Mountain 100 Heavy-wooded 101 HiL'hlaiid 100 J.ft'iev's 101 Lolty Bliotnn 101 Mu-lio .100 Lambert's 110 Pitch 101 INDEX. 37; Pine, Pyrcncan 100 Sabine's' 101 Scotch 100 Short-leaved, Yellow 100 S.vissStoi.e 103 Table Mouutain 100 Tauiian IdO Weyinoiah 101 White 101 Compact White 101 Silver-while 101 Plane. AmericaiJ 37 Oriental 37 Plums, Dwarf Doiible-floweriiiy. . .. 63 Flowering 63 Poplar 34 Abele 35 Athenian Weeping 35 Balsam 35 Carolina 35 "Eugenie" 35 Cotton wood 35 Gray 35 Lonibardy 35 Necklace 35 Parasol de St. Julien 35 Silver 35 Weeping 35 White 35 See Aspen. Privet, Box-leaved 83 Common 83 Laurel-leaved 83 Oval-leaved 83 Weeping' 83 White-berried 82 Pnrple Fringe (iS Quince, Japan 87 Red-bud 65 Red Cedar Ill Bedford's 113 Light Green 112 Silvery-leaved Ill Variegated, alba 113 ainea 113 Weeping Ill Retiniispora, obtuse-leaved 109 Pea-fruited 109 Goblen 109 Heath-like 109 Thready-branched ... 109 Pliime-likc 109 Silver-ti|)ped 108 Gold-tipped 109 Squarrose .109 Rhododendron, American 116 Hyiirids 116 Pontic 116 Rose, Bengal 93 Bourbon 93 China 93 Climl)inir 93 Hybrid Noisette 93 Perpetual, or Reniontants 93 Tea 93 Jinie, or Snnnner 93 Moss 93 Prairie 93 Rose, Tea 93 Yellow, or Austrian 92 of Sharon 74 St. Johnswort 89 Kalm's 89 Shrubby 89 Sassafras Gl Service-berry 62 Shad-flower 62 Shrubby Althtea 74 Shrubby Trefoil 72 Silver-Dell Tree 71 Silver Fir Ceplialonian 105 Cilician.... 105 Great 105 Lovely 105 Noble 105 Nordniann's 105 Siberian 105 Smoke-tree 68 Snowball 76 Japan 76 Snowberry 90 Snowy Mespihis 62 Sophora, Japan 54 Weepi ng .54 Sour Gum 54 Spice Bush 72 Spindle Tree 73 Spiraea 89 Billard's 90 Douglas's 90 Fortune's 90 Golden-leaved 90 Mountain-Ash-leaved 91 Plum-leaved DO Reeves' 9;) Thunberg's 90 Spruce, Black 103 Colorado Blue 103 Douglas's 104 Doiimets' 1 03 DwarfWhite Iii3 Glaucous 103 Hemlock 104 Himalayan 104 Menzies' 103 Norway 103 Barrv's 102 Clanbrasil's 103 Conical 103 EUwanger's Dwarf 103 Fincdon Hall 103 Gregory's Dwarf 103 Inverted branched 1 02 Maxwell's 103 Pigmv Dwarf 103 Pviamidal 102 Small-formed 103 Obovate-coned 104 Oriental 104 Smith's 104 White 103 Stagger-bush 97 Strawberry Bush 73 Stnarlia 78 Si yras, Jaiian 89 Sumach, Cut-leaved 69 378 ORNAMENTAL GAKDEKING. Sumacli, Fragrant 68 Osbeck's Chinese... .. 68 Staghorn 69 Venetian 68 Sweet Glim 53 Sweet Pepper Bush 85 Sweet-scented Siirub 84 Syringa 47 Tamarack 44 Tamarisk Ti Thorn, Common Hawthorn 67 Evergreen 67 Torreya, Californiau 113 Florida 113 Japanese 113 Umbrelhi Pine 113 Viburnum, Lantana-leaved 77 Nepal 77 Plum-leaved 77 Rough-leaved 77 Virgilia 54 Walnut, Black 36 European 36 Cut-leaved 36 Dwarf 36 Wax-berry 96 Wax Myrtle 98 Way-faring Tree 77 Wei^ela, Rose-colored 80 Variegated-leaved 80 White-flowered 80 White Alder 85 White Cedar 106 '•White Cedar" 107 Wig-Tree ... 68 Wild Olive 82 Willow, American Weeping 48 Babylonian 47 Fountain 48 Goat 47 Three-colored 48 Weeping 47 Golden 47 Japan Weeping 48 Kilmarnock WeepiDg 47 Laurel-leaved 48 Palm-leaved 48 Ring-leaved 48 Rosemary-leaved 48 Royal 48 Salmon's Weeping 47 Shinv-leaved 48 Silky Weeping 48 Wisconsin Weeping 48 Wolsey's Weeping 84 Winterberry. Common 83 Smooth-leaved 83 Witch Hazel 6« Withe-rod 77 Yellow-wood 53 Yew, American 114 Beautiful 114 Dovai^ton's 114 English 114 Golden 114 Irish 114 Japanese 144 Weeping 110 Yulan 15 INDEX OF HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. Acanthus 134 Aconite ... 138 Acorns 134 Adam's Needle 137 Adder's T<)n<;ue 127 Adonis, Spring 135 Aletris 138 Alfredia Nodding 125 Allium, Golden 138 Alstisenieria 138 Amianthium 138 Amsonia 139 Anemone 135, 139 Anthericura 125 Artemisia 135 Arundo Donax 135 Asphodel 1.39 Aster 139 Astilbe, Japan 125 Avens, Scarlet 142 Baneberry 138 Baplisia 139 Bee-Balm 144 Bell-Flower 1-26 Bellwort 145 Berlandiera 140 Bitter Vetch 131 Blazing Star 129 Bleeding Heart 127 Bocconia.. ^ 135 Boltonia 140 Bowman's Root 142 Brodseia 140 Biunella 140 Bugle, Blue-flowered 138 Red-leaved 1.3,5 Bupthalinura 135 Buttercup 144 Butterfly Tulip 140 Weed 139 Callirrhoii jjq Campanula 126 Cmada Tick-Trefoil 128 Candytuft. Perennial 128 Cardinal Flower 143 Catch-fly 131,133 Catnip. Miissin's 144 Centaurea 140 Chelone... ., 140 Cinquefoil, Pyrenian 144 Claiy, Silver 137 Clematis, Erect. 140 Clintonia 140 Colchicum 126 Colic Root 138 ColuLubiue , ..„125 IKDEX. 379 Comfrey, Variegated 137 Compass Plant 137 Cone-Flower 141 Coreopsis 140 Coronilla 141 Costmary 145 Crossvvort 141 Ci auesbill 142 Crocus l~tj Crowfoot 144 Crown Imperial 127 Cupidone 140 Cup Plant... 137 Daffodil 131 Daisy 125 Dame's Violet 128 Day Lily 128,136 Desmoiliiim. . 128 Dog's Tootli Violet 127 Doronicum 141 Dragon Head 144 Dropwort 133 Eringo 135 Eupatorium 142 Evening Primrose 144 False Indigo 139 Feverfew — 132 Flag 129 Flame-Flower 133 Flax, Perennial 143 Fleabane. Rose 142 Fleur de Lis 129 Flower of Jove 131 Forget-Me-Not ..131 Foxglovti 127 Fraxinella 127 Fiinkia 127 Gaiira 142 Gentian 142 Geranium 142 Glllenia 142 Globe Tliistle 135 Golden Aster 141 Golden Rod . ...145 Grass, Ribbon 134 Grasses. Ornamental 135 Greek Valerian 132 Groundsel 144 Gvpsopliila 142 Harebell 126 Hawkweed 143 Heart' s-ease 134 Hedge Nettle 145 Hollyhock .. .126 Horsemint 144 Hyacinths 128 Hyssop 143 Iris 129 Jacob's Ladder 132 Jonquil 129 Knotweed 144 Larkspur 126 Lavender Cotton 137 Liatris 1-^9 Lilies loO Lily of the Valley 12(; Lobelia 143 Leopard's Baue 141 Loosestrife 129, 143 Lotus 143 Lungwort 132,143 Lupine ... 143 Lychnis 131 Mallow, Moren's 143 May Apple, Oregon 1-38 Meadow Rue 145 Meadow Saffron 126 Meadovv-Sweet i:i3 Milfoil 138 Milkweed 139 Mimulus 144 Mint, Variegated 130 Mouarda 144 Moneywort 143 Monkey Flower 144 Monkshood 134,138 Moss Pink 132 Mountain Everlasting 139 Mountain Spurge 144 Niereml)ergia 144 Pachysandra 144 Pieony 131 Pansy 134 Pasque Flower, American 139 Pea, Perennial 129 Peiitstemon . 132 Pents'.emon, Scarlet 144 Pe)iwinkle 134 Phlox, Perennial 132 Pink 127 Pink Root 133 Plantain Lily... 127, 130 Polyanthus 132 Polygonum 144 Poppy, Perennial 132 Primrose 132 Pulmonaria 132 Purity 133 Pyrethrum 132 Queen of the Prairie 133 RagL'ed Robin 131 Ranunculus 144 Red-hot Poker Plant 133 Reed . .135 Rliul)arb 136 Rocket Flower 128 RoseMallow 143 Sage. Southern 1.32 ' Variesrated 137 St. Bernard's Lily 144 St. Bruno's Liiy 125 Satin Flower 145 Sea Pink 145 Senecio 144 Senna. American 140 Sisvrinchium 145 Skullcap 144 Solomon's Seal 145 Snake's Head 140 Sneeze wort, Double 138 Snowdrop 128 Snowtlake 130 Speedwell 1U SpiL'elia 133 Spiraeas, Herbaceous 133 Spurge 142 ago ORNAMENTAL GARDENIKGt, Squill 133 Stacliys 145 Siar Flower, Spring 145 Star Grass 138 Star ol" Bethlehem 131 Stokesia.Blii* 133 Stork's Bill 14-2 Sunflower 142 Graceful 13(i Sweet William l->7 Thalictrum 145 Thrift 145 Thyme, Variejrated 137 Trefoil, Bird's-foot 143 Trileleia 145 Tritoma 133 Tulips 133 Turfing Daisy ..144 Uvularia 145 Valerian 145 Red 140 Verhena, Hardy 145 Veronica 134 Violet i:i4 Viririnia Cowslip 143 White Cup 144 W horl Flower 130 Winter Aconite 14-2 Wood Hyacinlh 133 Woodruff 125 Wormwood 135 Yarrow 138 Yucca 137 INDEX OF CLIMBERS. Actinidia polygama 122 Akebia quinata 122 'American Ivy " 118 Ampelopsis 118 Clematis 121 Climbing Bittersweet 122 CocculuB Carolina 123 Dutchman's Pipe 122 (irape Vine 123 Grecian Silk 123 Honeysuckles 120 Ivy, European 123 Jessamine, White 123 Moouseed, Canadian 123 Pepper Vine 118 Staff Tree 122 Trumpet Vine 122 Virginia Cieeper. lis Wistaria 119 Woodbine, Common 120 INDEX OF ALPINE AND ROCK PLANTS. Acantholimon 146 Aly.ssum ...14fi Arabis 146 Arenaria 140 Aubrietia 146 Barrenwort 14T Bluets 147 Bulbocodium 146 Camassia 146 Catchfly, Alpine 149 Catchfly. German 147 Cerastium 146 Claytonia 147 Clematis. Herbaceous 147 Columbine. Wild 146 Epiraedium ] 17 Erinus. Alpine 147 Gentian. Stemless 147 Geum, Mountain 147 Golden Tnft 146 Ground Ivy 147 Harebell 146 Houseleek 149 Houstonia 147 Kidney Vetch 146 Live-for-ever 14H Lychnis, Rock 147 Meadow Saffron, Spring 146 I Milfoil, Woolly 146 Mitchella 147 Mouse ear Chlekweed 146 Opuntia .147 Partridge Berry 147 Phlox 147 Pine-barren Beauty 148 Prickly Pear 147 Pyxidanthera 148 Quarnash 146 Rock Cress 1 46 Sandwort 146 Saxifrage 148 Sedum 149 Scmpervivum .119 Soa p wort, Rock 148 Speedwell, Alpine 149 Spring Beauty 147 Strawberry, Barren 149 Stonccrop 149 Thrift, Common 116 Prickly 146 Toadflax, .Alpine 147 Tunica. Rock 149 Wa'dsteinia 149 Wallflower. Alpine 147 Wood Sorrel .146 INDEX. 381 INDEX OF AQUATIC AND BOG PLANTS. Arisaema 153 Airow Head 155 Calopogon 153 Caltlia 153 Caly pro. Northern 153 Cardinal Flower I'A CatTail 155 Centaury. 154 Cy pripedium 153 Darhugtuuia 154 Droseni 154 Fringed Orchis 151 Globe Flower p 155 Sabbatia 1.54 Sarraceoia 1.55 Sandew 154 Sweet Flag 153 Golden Clpl) 1.54 Grass of Parnassus 154 Green Dragon 153 Habeuaria 1.54 Ladies' Slipper 153 MarsLi Calla 1.54 Marsh Marigold 153 Orontium 154 Piclierel Weed 155 Pitcher Plant 155 Pitcher Plant, California 1.54 Pogonia 154 Poutederia 155 Trollius 1.55 Typha 155 Water Lily 154 Water Shield 153 INDEX OF FERNS AND SHADE-LOVING PLANTS. Adam and Eve 150 Anemone ... 150 Aplectrum 1.50 Asarum 150 Bloodroot ..152 Bunch-berry 1.50 Christmas Rose 152 Club Moss 152 Cornus, Dwarf 150 Cowslip, American 1.50 Cypripedium 1.50 Dodecatlieon 150 False Solomon's Seal 1.52 Ferns 1.51 Fritillaria 152 Helleborus 152 Helonias. Spiked 152 Hepatica 1.52 Jack in the Pulpit 150 Lady's Slipper 150 Liverleaf 152 May Apple 153 Meadow Beauty 152 Orchis. Showy 162 Podophyllum 153 Polygala, Fringed 152 Ramoiidia 152 Rattlesnake Plantain 152 Rbexia 152 Selaginella 1.53 Shooting Star 150 Smilaciiia 153 Snakeroot, Canada 1.50 Snakeroot. Virginian 150 Solomon's Seal. False 152 Trailing Arbutus ]50 Trillium 152—153 Violet 153 Wake Robin 152—153 Wood Lily 153 INDEX OF THE BOTANICAL OR SCIENTIFIC NAMES OF THE TREES, SHRUBS AND PLANTS. IISTDEX OF THE BOTAKTCAL ISTAMES OF TREES AND SHRUBS. Abies alba 103 var. c;prulea 103 amabilis 105 balsamea 104 Canadensis 104 var. densa 104 var. miciophylla 104 var. nana 104 var. Sargentii 104 Cephalouica 105 Cilicica 105 Douglasii 104 excelsii . . 102 var. Barryii 102 var. Clanbrasilana 102 var. inverta lo2 var. Finedoneusis 102 var. Gregoriana 103 var. Maxwelliaua 103 var. pyramldalis 102 Fraseri, var. Hudsonica 105 grandis 105 Menziesii ,...103 nigra 103 var. Doumeti 103 nobilis • • • 105 Nordmanniana 105 obovata 104 orientalis 104 peclinata 105 var. conipacta 105 var. pendula 105 Pichla 105 polita 104 Pinsapo 105 Smithiana 104 Acacia Nemu 59 .iEaculus 32 cainea superba 34 Chinensis 33 flava 33 glabra, 33 Ilippocastanum 32 var. flore pleuo 32 var. rubra 11. i)1 32 var. laciniata 32 var. nana Van Houttei 32 Memmingeri 32 parviflora 34 Pavia 33 var. atrosanguiuea 33 var. carnea pubesceiis 33 var. purpurea 34 var. Whitleyi , 34 (383) ^sculus pumila pendula 34 rubicunda 32 var. foliis aureis 32 var. nana 33 Acer campestris 40 Colchicum rnbrum 38 dasycarpum .38 var. crispum novum 38 var. hcterophvllum lacinia- tura .".. 38 var. Wagneri 38 macrophyllum 40 palmatuin . 40 Penusylvaiiicura 40 platanoides 37 var. cucullatum. . 38 var. disseetuin 38 var. laciniaium 38 var. Lorbergii .38 var. Schvverdlorii 38 polymorphum 39 Pjeudo-Platanus 38 var. aureo-variegata 38 var. Douglasi 38 var. purpurea 39 var. velutiiium 39 rnbrum 37 var. fulgeiis 37 var. tonienlosum 37 Baccharinum 37 var. nigrum 37 Tartaricum 40 Ailanthus L:landulo8us 53 Alnus glntinosa 54 var. laciniata imj)erlalis 54 var. quercifolia 55 var. rubro-nervis. 55 incana 55 var. laciniata 55 tiliacea 55 Amelanchiur Canadensis 62 var. Botryapium 62 vuli;aris 62 Amorpha canescens 83 I'ruticosa 83 var. angustifolia .... 83 Andromeda floribunda 97 Mariana 97 polifolia 97 Aralia ChiiiBBgis 72 var. elata 72 spfnosa 73 Azalea arhorea 95 calendulacea 95 INDEX. 383 Azalea mollis , 95 nudiflora. 95 viscosa 95 Berberis Aquifolium 117 Caiiadeusis bH vulgaris var. piiipiirea 86 var. fructu violacea 86 Betula alba 56 var. fastigiata 57 var. foliis purpureis 57 var. pcndula elegans 57 var. peiidula laciiiiata 57 var. pendula Youugii 57 var. populifolia 57 var. pubesccns 57 var. trisiis 57 var. uiticifolia 57 Bhojpaltra 58 costuta . . 58 lutea. 58 lenta 57 papy incea 57 pumila 58 Biota 107 Broujsouetia papyrifera 56 Buxus srmpervirens 117 C'ephalaiitlius occidentnlis 83 Callicarpa Ameiicaua !S5 purpurea 85 Calycantlius elongatus 84 florldus 84 glaucus S4 lievigatus 84 macrocarpus S4 Caragana Aliagaiia 70 arborescens 71 Chamlagu 70 Carpinus Americana 65 Betulu.s 65 var. pendula 65 Caryaall)a 36 Cassandra calyculata 97 Castanea vesca 34 var. Americana 34 Japonica 34 piimila 34 Catalpa Bungei 43 K;vmpferi 43 speciosa 43 s.vringa>folia 43 bignoiiioides 43 var. aurea 43 var. nana 43 Ceanothus Americanus 85 Cephalotaxus drupracea 115 Cedriis Atlantica 107 Deodara 107 Libani 107 Celtis australis 60 occidentalis 60 Cercidiphyllum Japonicum 60 Cercis Canadensis 65 Japonica 66 Chlnensis 66 Chionanthus Virginica 66 Cladrastis tinctona 53 Clethra acuminata 85 aluifolia 85 Colutea arborescens 81 crucnta 81 Halt-pica : 81 Coriius alteinifolia 66 circinata 66 forida W Mas 67 var. variegata 67 sanguinea 67 Sibirica var. variegata 67 Corylus Americana 84 Avellana, var. purpurea 84 var. laciniata S4 Coluriia 85 Cotonea^'ter afflnis 88 buxifolia 88 friiiida 88 laxiflora 88 micropiiylla 88 nunimulaiia 83 • rotundifolia 88 I Crat*gus Oxyacantha 67 I Pyracantha 67 ! Cupiessus Lawsoniana 106 var. argcntea 106 I var. erecta 106 I var. ptndula 106 I var. pyramidalis 106 var. variegata. 106 I thyoide:* 106 I var. nana 106 I var. variegata 106 I Cryptomeria Japonica 107 ] Cytisus purpureus 64 I Daphne Cneorum 98 I Mezereum 98 Deutzia crenata 96 I var. fl. pi 96 i var. fl. alb. jil 96 1 var. purp. pi 96 I gracilis 96 • scahra 96 j Diervilla arborea-grandiflora 80 I Candida 80 j hortensis nivea 80 1 rosea 80 Dimorphantbus Mandshuricus 72 I Diospyros Kaki 60 Lotus 60 Virginiana 59 Eleagnus argentea 82 hortensis 82 Euonymus alatus 73 Americanus 73 atropurpuieus 73 Europ;ieus 73 var. atropurpureus 73 latifolius 73 Exochorda graudiflora 89 Fagus fenugiiiea 41 sylvatica 41 var. aurea variegata 41 var. cristata 42 var. cuprea 41 var. laciniata 42 var. macrophylla 41 var. pendula 41 var. aspleniifolia 43 384 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. Fagus sylvatica 41 viir. purpureii 41 var. pnrpiuua mnjor 41 var. piirpui-fa Kiveisii 41 Forsytliia Foituiifi . 84 snspensa 84 viridissima 84 Fraxiiuis Americana 44 var. aucuhaBl'olia 44 var. Boscii ..44 var. jiiijlaiKlirolia 44 var. paniiof^a 44 var. punctata 44 var. lul'a 44 var. spectabilis 45 excelsior 45 var. atrovirens 45 var. aurca 45 var. aurea-pendula 45 var. cuciillata 45 var. globoi^a 45 var. pendiila 45 var. j^alicil'olia 45 var. coiicavifl'olia variegala... 45 var. inonophylla 45 var. scol()|)ei]drifolia 45 Ginkgo adianiifolia 45 Glyptostrobus punduliis 58 Gyiiinocladus Canadensis 52 Glediiscliia Caspica 53 Sinensis .^9 iriacantlios 59 var. Biijotii 59 var. inermis 50 Halesla diptera 79 tittrapiera "Il Haniama'lis Virginica '. 68 Hibiscus Syriaeiis 74 Hydraiiirea arborescens 87 Hortensia 86 l)anicn1ata graudiflora 86 quercifolla 87 radiata • ... 87 Hypericum Kalmiannm 89 prolificnm .89 Ilex Klal"'i' ^^ liBvigata 8.3 opaca . .113 vcrlicillaia 83 Juni perns Barbadensis 112 Caiiadt-nsis HO Cominnnis • • HO var. alpina 110 var. alpina pyramidalis llO var. Cracovica.. HI var. Hibernica Ill var. Hibernica robusta Ill var. nana ...Ill var. Suecica 110 Chinensis HI var. Japonica 112 var. Lecana H2 var. Reevesiana 112 Daurica 112 liemisphsrica 112 Occidentalis, var. venusla 112 priistrata. . 112 Sabiua 112 JnniperusSaliina 112 var. alpina Ill var. cupressilolia. . ., Ill vars. taniariscifoUa Ill var. variegata ill squaniala 112 Virginiana m var. Bedl'ordiana ill var. glauca m var. pendula 112 var. Sclioitii 112 var. variegata alba 112 var. variegata aiirea 112 Juglans cinerea 36 nigra 3(j regia 36 var. laciniata 3f) var. i)riepartiiricns 3f> Kalniia angiisiilolia lis latil'olia 113 Kerria Japonica 97 Koelrenteria paiiiciilaia H5 Laburnum alpinum 64 Alscliiiigeri .. . 64 vulgare 64 var. macropliylla 64 var. Parkii 64 var. quercifolia 64 Lari .x Americana 44 Europ^a 43 var. glanca 43 var. pendula 43 U'ptolepis 44 Leucotlioe Catef^ba■i 97 Libocedrus decurrens 107 Ligustriim lanriioliiiin 82 ovalifolium 82 viilj,'are . 82 var. bnxifolia 82 var. leiicocarpa 82 var. pendula 82 Lindora Benzoin 72 Liquidainbar styracifliia 53 Liiiodendron Tiilipifera 36 Lonicera Cienilea 78 frasrantissima . 77 Lcdobourii 77 Slandisliii 78 Tartarica, 77 Xylosteum 78 Machura anrantiaca 61 Ma^'nolia acuminata 49 conspicua 50 cordata 5o Fraseri 50 glauca 50 var, longifolia 50 graudiflora 50 liypoleuca 52 Leiinei 51 macropliylla 52 Norbertiana 50 parviflora 51 purpurea 50 Sonlangeaua 52 var. gracilis 51 speciosa 52 stellata 51 INDEX. 385 Magnolia Thompsoniana 52 Uiiibiella 50 Mospiliis Gcinianicu (52 Morus alba 55 var. fastigiata 55 nijira 55 rubra 55 Tokwa 56 Myrica cerifera 98 Nei;iiiido aceroides 40 var. ciispnin 40 var. foliis argeuteis 40 Nyssa iniiltiflora 54 Ostrya Virgiiiica t>5 Paiilownia impeiialis 56 Piims Aiistriaca 100 Bonthaiiiiaiia 100 Cembra 103 var. pygnia-'S 102 excelsa 101 Jeffieyi 101 Lamliertiana ■ 100 Laricio. . , 100 mitis 100 Mugho 101 Paliasiaiia. 100 Pinaster 100 ponderosa 101 puinilio 100 piingens 100 Pyieniaca 100 syl vestris 100 var. horizoiitalis 100 Piidocarpus Japoiiica 114 Poteiitilla IVuticosa 98 Pyrus Japoiiica 88 Pliiladeli)hns coronaiiiis To var. nana . 75 dianthiflora ''"> GordOMianus 76 granilifloius TG nivalis 76 s.ingiiiiieiis 76 Pupil I lis alba 35 viir. nivea..... 35 balsamifera 35 dilatata 35 Gr#ca pi'iidula 35 giaiididentata peiidula .35 moiiililVia 35 tremiiluidfS , 35 Piiiiiiis avium, fl. pi .. fi3 doinestica, fl. pi 63 nana 64 Padlis 63 Sinensis 63 spiiiosa, fl. pi 63 tomontosa 63 triloba 63 Ptelea ti'iloliata 72 Pyriis Aineiicana 61 aiicuparia 61 var. pendula 61 coronaria. . 60 liybrida 61 quercit'olia 61 sambuci folia 61 spectabilis, 60 Qnercus 29 alba 30 bicolor 30 Ceiris 31 coccinea... 30 Daimio 31 dentata 31 iiiibricaiia 30 lyn.ta 30 niacrocarpa 30 Moiigolica 31 paliistris 30 Plielios 30 Priniis 30 var. laciniata 30 Robiir 30 var. argentca yaricgata 31 var. atiopiirpuiea 31 var. Concordia 31 var. com orta 31 var. cucullata: 31 var. fastigiata 31 var. laciniata .31 var. latifolia cucullata .31 var. Louet ti 31 var. niaciophylla 31 var. nigricans- , 31 var. pendula 31 rubra 30 Kosa Bourbon iaiia 93 cenii folia muscosa 92 Daniascivna 92 Iiulica 93 Iiidica odorata 93 Iiidica odorata hybrida 93 lutea 92 Noisettiana liybrida 93 Rubus fruticosus. . . 94 var. laciniatus 94 Niitkanus 94 odoratiis 94 Retinispora.— (See Thuja.) Rhamnus catharticus 68 Rhus, aromatica 68 Cotinus 68 glabra, var. laciniata 69 Osbeckii 68 typhina. . . , 69 Ribes aureum 87 Gordonianmn 87 sangnineum 87 Roblnia hispida 59 var. grandiflora 59 Pseudacacia 58 var. aurea 58 var. Bessoniana 58 var. Bella-rosea 58 var. fastigiata.. . 58 var. inermis . . 58 var. inermis rubra monstrosa.. 58 var. pyramidalis 58 var. spectabilis 58 viscosa 59 Salisburia 49 Salix, alba var. vitellina 47 Babylonica 47 var. Salmonii 47 var. annularis. 48 386 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. SalixCaprea 47 var. pendula 47 var. tricolor 48 Japoiiica pendula 48 laurifolia 48 lucida 48 palm;rfolia 48 purpurea pendula 48 regalls 48 rosmarinifolia 48 sericea pendula 48 Wolsoyana pendula 48 Sambucus Canadensis 71 nigra... 71 var. aurea 71 var. laciniata 71 Sassafras officinalis 61 Sciadopitys verticillata 113 Sopbora japonica 54 var. pendula 54 Spir.i'a callosa 90 Douglasii 90 Fortuiiei 90 opulifolia, var 90 priinifolia 90 Rei'vesiana 90 salicif olia, var. fl.pl 90 BilUirdi 90 sorbifolia 91 Thimbergii 90 Staphyhea Colchica 81 I)innata 81 trifolia 81 Stuart ia pentagyna 78 Virginica 79 Styrax Japonica. 89 Syrinira Chinensis 70 dubia 70 Emodi 70 Josika-a 70 Persica 69 var. alba 70 Rothomageusis 70 Verschafleltii 70 vulgaris 69 var. variegata 69 Tamarix Gallica 73 Tlmini)sis dolibrata 115 Standishii 115 Taxodiiini distlchnm 52 disticbuui pendulum 52 Sinense iiendulum 52 Taxus adpressa 114 baccata .114 var. aurea 114 var. Canadensis 114 var. Dovastoni 114 var. fastigiata 1 14 Thuja 107 (Biota) orientalis ..110 var. aarea 110 var. elegantissima 110 var. flliformis pendula 110 var. semper aurea 110 (Retinispora), [ilamosa... 109 plumosa 109 var. argeutea 109 var. aurea 109 Thuja pisifera, var. aurea 109 var. ericoides 109 var. fllif era 109 obtusa 109 squairosa no occidentalis 107 var. alba 108 var. aiirea ]08 var. Burrowii 108 var. conica densa 108 var. compacta 108 var. cristata 108 var. ericoides 108 var. globosa 107 var. Haclvcrii 109 var. Ilovey i 1 08 var. nana 109 var. pendula 108 var. plicata 108 var. pyrainidalis 108 var. rotundaia 109 var. Sibirica 108 var. Verva?neaua 108 var. Warreana 108 Tilia Americana 46 var. macropliylla 46 cordata 47 Europiea 46 var. alba 46 var. alba-pcndula 46 var. dasy.-ityja 47 var. laciniata 46 var. laciniata rubra 46 var. microi)hylla 46 var. platyi)lilla 46 var. jjlatyphylla aurea 47 var. pyrainidalis 47 var. rubra 47 var. sulpliurea 47 var. vitilolia 46 Torreya Californica 113 nucifera 113 taxifolia 113 Ulmus campestris 28 var. aurea 28 var. Belgica 28 var. Comubiensis 28 var. cucullata 28 var. nionnmcntalis 28 var. plumosa 28 var. purpurea 28 var. serratifolia 28 var. suberosa pendula 28 var. nrticiefolia 28 var. variegata argentea 2S var. viminalis . 28 fulva 29 var. pendula 29 Dova>i 29 uiontana 28 var. al ba marginata 29 . var. Camperdowni 28 var. cinerea 27 var. cri spa 29 var. Huntiiigdoni 29 var. latifolia . . 29 vrr. pendula .. 29 var. pendula rugosa , 89 IKDEX. 387 TJlmus montaiia .... 2S var. pyrainidalis Dauipieri.... 29 var. superba 2!) Viburniiiu Opiilus 76 var. sterilis 76 Nepaleuse 77 Viburnum midiim 7t plicatum 76 prunifolium 77 rnsosum.. 73 Virgilia 54 INDEX OF THE BOTANICAL NAMES OF HARDY HERBA- CEOUS PLANTS. Acanthus latifolins 134 mollis 1:^4 Achillea filipendula 138 millefoliuin roseiiin 138 Ptarmitart.pl 138 Aclilys Uiphylla 13S Aconitum aiitiimnalo 134 Japoiiicum 138 Napellus 138 Acorns gramiueus 134 Actwa alba 13S spicata 138 var. rubra 138 Adonis vernalis 125 Ajiiga pyrainidalis 138 reptans 135 Aletris anrea ...138 farinosa 138 Alfredia cernaa 135 Allium Moly 138 Alstriemeria aiirantiaca 138 Amiaiitliium miiscaetoxicum 13S Amsonia angustifolia 139 TabL'rna'inontaua 139 Anemone appenina .125 cylindrica 139 Japonica 125 var. alba 125 patens, var. Niutalliana 139 nemorosa, fl. pi 125 Pennsylvanica 139 ranunciiloides .139 sylvestris 139 Antennaria dioica 139 Authericum Liliago 144 liliastrum 125 ramosiim 125 Aqnilegia cierulea . 125 clirysantha 125 glandulcisa 125 Skimieri... 125 caryophylloides 125 vulgaris 125 Armeria vulguris 145 Arlemesia Sielk^riana. . 1:55 vulgaris 135 Anindo Donax 135 Asclepias tiiberosa 139 verlicillata 139 Asperula odorata 125 Aster lonirifolins 139 Nova? AnirliiP 139 Novi Belirii 139 ohlongifolius 136 Astilbe Japonica 125 Baptisia alba 139 australis 139 Bellis perennis 125 Berlandiera toracntosa 140 Betonica otficinalis 140 Bocconia cordata 135 Boltonia glastit'olia 140 Brodisea congesta 140 grandifloia 140 Bruriella grandiflora 140 Bupthalmum speciosum 135 Callirrlioealcffioidus 140 involucrata 140 triangulata 140 Calochortus Guniiisoiii 140 Campanula persica^folia 126 Trachelium 126 sarmatica 126 grandiflora 126 Cassia Marilandica 140 Catananclie casrulua 140 Centaurea macrocepliala 140 montana 140 Centranthus ruber 140, Clielone glaber 140 Clirysopsis Mariana 140 Clematis electa 140 integrifolia ;140 Clintonia borealis 140 Colcbicum autnmnale 126 C'onvallaria majalis 126 Coronilla varia... 147 Crocus venius 126 Crucianella stylosa 141 Daclylis glonieiata 1.35 Delpliiniiim azureum 126 ca;lstiniiin 116 rormosuin 126 grandiflorum 127 pyrainidalis 127 Desmodium Canadense 128 Diauthiis barbatiis 127 deltoides 127 deiitosiis 127. plumarius . . 127 Querterii 127 Dicentia eximia 127 spectabilis 127 DiclamiJiis Fraxiiielja 127 Digitalis purpurea 127 Doronicum Caucasicum 141 Ei-liinacea purpurea 141 Ecbinops Rilro 135 Elymus arenarius 135 Erantliis hyemalis 142 388 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. Eriaiithus Raveiinae ]3o Eii;;eroii inacraiitliiim 142 E. odium Manescavi 142 Kiyiij,'iiiiii amethystiiiuni 135 juccaefolium 135 Erythroniiiin albiduiii 127 Aiiifiicaiiuiii. 127 Deiip-caiiis 127 Eulalia Japonica, vaiiegata 135 var. zebrina 135 Eiipatoiiiim ageniioides 142 Eiii)liorl)ia coiollata 142 Myrsiiiite!*... 142 Fostiica glanca 135 Fritillaria imperialis 127 Fiiiikiaalba 128 c;eiiilea 128 Japonicu 128 Sicboldii 128 nndiilata medio-picia 13B Galantlms nivalis 128 Gam;; aii-in^iirolia. . 142 Gcn'iana Aiidrewsii 142 niiciala 142 Geranium platypc-talum 142 sannul Ileum.. 142 Geiim coccineum 142 Gilleniatrifoliata 142 Gyneriiim argeiileiim 13) Gypsopliila aciiti folia 142 paiiiciilata ..142 Hclianihiis angustifolius 142 mollis 142 oijrvalis 136 Homcrocallis flava 128 fiilva 128 Kwaiiso. var .. 136 Hesperis matroiialis 128 Hibiscus Californiciis 143 frraiidiflDms 143 Moscheutos 143 Hieracitim aiiiantiactim 143 Hyacinth 119 oricntalis 128 Hyssiipiis officinalis 143 Iberis corraefolia 128 Gibraltarica 128 sempervirens 128 Iris Florentina 129 Germanica 129 Ibirica 129 Kii'mpferi 129 Levigata 129 Pavonla 129 piimlla 129 reticulata 129 xiphioides 129 Xiphium 129 Lathvrus erandiflorus 129 laiifolius 129 Leuciijum ii'stivum 1.30 autumnalis 1.30 vernum 130 Liatris elegans 129 pumila 129 spicata 199 Lilium aiiratum 130 Canadense 130 candidum 130 Lilium Catesbsei 130 excelsum 130 Krameri i,30 longiflorum 130 Pomponium 130 speciosum roseum 130 superbuMi ]30 teniiifolium 1.30 tigrinum 130 Tnunbergianum 130 Linum perenne 143 Lobelia cardiualis 143 syphilitica 143 Lopauthus anisatus 143 Lotus corniculatus 143 Lupinus polyphyllus 143 Lychnis Chalcedonica 131 Flos-cuculi 131 FlosJovis i:u Haagcana 131 Viscaria. fli. pi 131 Lysimacliia clethroides 143 nummularia 143 vulgaris 143 Ly thrum Salicaria 129 Malva Morenii 143 Mentha rotuniiifolia, var 136 Mertensia paniculata 143 Virginica 143 Mimulus cardinalis. 144 Monarda didyma 144 Muecari botryoides 128 comosum 128 moscliatum 128 Myosotis dissitiflora 1.31 Narcissus Jouquilla 129 Nepeta Maseeni ...144 Nierembergia rivularis 144 (Enothera Missouriensis 144 speciosa 144 Ornithogalumpyramidale 131 umbellatum 131 Orobus vernus 131 Paoniu Moutan 131 officinalis 131 teniiifolia 1.32 Pachysandra procumbens 144 Panicum virgatum 1.35 Pentstemon narbatus 144 Phalaris arundinacea, var 134 Phlox divaiicata 132 reptans 1.32 subulaia 132 Pbysostegia V'irginiana 144 Platycodon grandiflorum 126 Polcmonium c:eruleuni 132 reptans 132 Polygonatum vulgare 145 var. macranthum 145 Polygonum cuspidatum .144 vaccinifolium 144 Potentilla pyreniaca 144 Primula vulgaris 132 Pulmonaria angustifolia 132 maculata 132 Pyretlirum Tchihatchewii 144 RanuncuhiB bulbosus 144 fascicularis , 144 INDEX. 389 Raiinncnliis rhomboideiiS 144 Rheum Emodi 106 palmaium 136 Rudbeckia maxima 141 nitida 142 Salvia argeniea 137 aziirea 137 officinalis tricolor 137 Santoliua Cbamiecyparissus 137 Sedum cruciatum 137 spectabilis 137 Senecio aureus 145 Silene mari tima 133 orieutalis 133 Penusylvunica 133 Schafta 133 Silpbium laciniatum 137 perfoliatiim 137 Sisj'rinchium graudiflorum 1-15 Spigelia Marilandica 133 Spinea Ariincus 133 fllipendula 133 Japonica 1-25 venusta 133 Stachj's coccinea 145 lanata 145 Stokesia cyanea 133 Symphytum officinale, var. . 137 Tauacftum Balsamita 145 Thalictrum aquilegifolium .145 speciosiira 145 Thymus citriodorus 137 Seipyllum, var 137 Tradescautia Virginica 133 Triteleia uniflora 145 Tritomu Uvaria 133 Valeriana officinalis 145 Verbena bipinnatiflda 145 moiitana, 145 Veronica amethystina 134 geiitiaiioides 134 longif olia 134 Vlnca major 134 minor 134 Viola blanda 134 coruuta 134 pedata 134 tricolor 134 Wahlenbergia grandiflora 126 Yucca aiigustifolia 137 baccata 137 fllamentosa 137 IKDEX OF THE BOTANICAL NAMES OF CLIMBERS. Actinidia polygama 122 Akebia quiiiata 122 Aiistolocliia Siplio 122 Ampelopsis bipinnala 118 iiidivisa 118 qiiinquefolia 118 Roylii 118 tricuspidala 118 Veitcliii 118 Celastrus scandens 122 Clematis coccinea 121 Jaekman i i .3_J24- VirL'iiiiana .....121 Cocciilus Carolinus 123 Hfdeni Helix, var. Hibernica 124 Jasmin nm officina'e. . 123 Lonicera Uiachypoda 120 vur, reticulata 120 Capri folinni, var. pallida 120 flava 120 var. Canadensis 120 Halleana 100 Perlclymeiiuni 120 var. Belgica 121 Lonicera Perinlymenum .- 120 senipervirens 120 var. Brownii 120 var, minus... 120 Standisliii 121 Menispermnm Canadeuse 122 Peripluca Graeca 123 Tecoma radicans 122 grandiflora -. 122 Vitis lestivalis, 123 cordifolia 123 ■terophylla 122 iiidivisa 123 vnlpina ViS Wistaria brachybotrys 110 fnitescens .. 119 var. alba ]1!» var. masrniflca 119 .Tapcmica alba 119 Sinensis 119 var. alba 119 var. fl. pi 119 mnUijtiL'a 119 var. alba 119 INDEX OF THE BOTANICAL NAMES OF ALPINE AND Acanthollmon glumaceum 146 Achillea tomentosa 146 Alyssum saxatile llti var. conipactuni 146 An thy Ills montana 146 Aquiiegia Canadensis 146 Arabis, sp 146 Arenaria. sp 146 Ariiieria planlaginea 146 vul-aris 146 Aubrietia, sp 146 ROCK PLANTS. Biilbocodinm vernum 146 Cerasliuni Boissieri 146 tonientosum 14fi Camassia. sp 146 Campannla Carpatica 146 isopliylla 146 rotimdifolia 146 Cheiranlhiis alpinus 147 Ciavionia Virginica 147 Cleinatis. sp ..147 Epiinedium alpinum 147 390 ORNAMENTAL GAKDENING. Epimediiim pinnatum 147 Eiinus alpiuus 147 Gel] liana acaulis 147 Geuiii inonlaiimii 147 Houslonia cseiulua 147 suipyililolia 147 liiiiana alpina 147 Lychnis Lairascw 147 Vi^caria, var. sjjlciidL'iis 147 Mitclic'lla lepeiis 147 Nupeia Gleclioina 147 Oi)iiiitia Ratinesqtiii 147 Oxalis violacea 147 Puiiiftciuon acuiiiinaius 147 Plilox ainoeua 14S Doiit-'la^ii 147 Pyxiilaiitliera bail)iilata 148 Sapoiiaiia ocyiuoidus 148 Saxifraga cordifolia 148 crassilolia 148 ligiilata 148 Virgiiiieiisis 148 Seduin aci-u ] 49 KaInt^^chaticum 149 populiloliuiii . ..149 l)iilclielluiii 149 Sieboldii 149 spectai)ile 149 Tuk'plii iim 149 vai". liybridiiin 149 Seniperviviiiii, sp 149 Sileiie alpeslris 149 Tunica Saxifiaga 149 Veronica alpina 149 Waldstenia liagaiioides 149 INDEX OF THE BOTANICAL NAMES OF AQUATIC AND BOG PLANTS. Adiantum pedatnin ...151 Anemone Apenuiiia 150 ncnioro.sa 150 var. biacteala 150 Aplectriiin liyeni;ile 150 Arissema tripliylluni 150 AristolocliiaSerpentaria 150 Asarum Canadcnse 150 candatMMi 150 Virginicnni 150 A^pidiuin IV;i'niii8 151 acrostichoidps. 151 ininiiUini 151 Aspli'ninni ibcneiiin 151 Caniptosonis rliizopbylliis 151 Cbrll.-intlics tonientosa 151 vistita ,- ..151 Corniis Canadin>i?' 150 Cypripedinni acaiile 150 Calcrolii!' 150 Dodecatlieon Mi-adia ]"0 var. lancifolium 150 Epigiea repens 150 Frilillaria atropiirpurea 152 lanceolata 152 Goodyera, sp 152 Hellol)oriis atrorubens. .. 152 niger 152 Helonias bullata... 152 Hepatica. sp 152 Loniaria Spicant ]5i Orchis spcctal)ilis 152 Pelia'a airopnrpurea ... 152 Pteris aqnilina ]52 Podopliylliiin lie! tain in 153 Polygahi |)ancilolia 152 Polypodinni vnlgare 152 Rainondia Pyreiialca 152 Riicxia Virginica 152 Sangiiinaria anadense , 152 Selaginella sp 152 Smiiacina stelhita 152 Triilinm cernnuin 152 eryihrocarpinn 153 grandiflornm 153 nivale 153 Viola Canadensis 153 piil)escen8 153 sagittata 153 Woodsia llvensis 152 INDEX OF THE BOTANICAL NAMES OF FERNS AND SHADE-LOVING PLANTS. Acorns Calamus 153 ArisoeinaDniconlinin 153 Brasenia peltaia ..... 153 Callapahislris.. 154 Calopogon pulclullns 153 Call ha palnsiris 153 Calypso boreal is 15:3 Cyprippdinm ark'tinnni 154 candiduni 153 l)arvifl(>runi 154 spectabile 153 DarlinLrlonia C.ilil'ornica 154 DrosL-ra lilirorinis 154 roinndilolia 154 Habenaria blepharigloltis 154 ciliaris , 154 Habenaria finibriata 154 psycodes 154 Lobelia cardinalis 154 Nyniphsea odorata 154 Niipharadveiia 154 Orontiuni aqnalicnm 154 Parnassia asuril'olia 154 Pontederia cordata 1.55 Pogonia, s|> 154 Sal)l>alia chlorcides 1.54 lanceolata 154 Sagittaria variabilis. . 155 Sarracenia pnri)iirea 155 Trollins laxns 155 Typlia angusUlolia 1.55 latifolia 155 f^mrr ubkary 11 r Q*nt0 Callite STAKCARD BOOKS. Coaroended by the Greatest Educators of Germany, Ens:land ana the T)nitet States. Endorsed by Of iicials, and adopted in many Schools neu^ methods in education Art. Real Manual Training. Nature Study. Explaining Processo;3 ] whereby Hand, Eve and Mind are Educated by Means tiiat Conserve Vital- ity and Develop a Union of Thought and Action By 3. Liberty Cadd Direeto'^ 0/ the Public School of Im/ustiuil Art, of Manual Training a/,d Art in (he R C.High School, and in xert-ral Xiiiht Schools, Member of the Art vtcb. Sketch. Club, and Educational Club, and of the Academy of Natural Sciences, i^hdadelfUia BASED on twenty-two years' experience with tliousands of children and Imudreds of teachers. "A method reasonable, feasible and without great cost, adapted to all grades, troni child to adult; apian that can be applied without friction to every kind of educational institution or to the family, and limited onlr by the capacity of the individual ; a method covered bv natural law, workinsj with the absolute precision of nature it- self; a process that unfolds the capacities of children as unfold the leaves and flow'U's; a systen) that teacbesthe pupils thatthey are in the plan and part of life, and enables them to work out their own f.alvation on the true lines of design and vyork as illus- trated in every natural thing." a lUcaltb of Tllustration-47$ Pictures and m TullPagc Plates kihowing children and teachers practicing these new methods or their work. A revelation to all interested in developing t'.ie won- derful capabilities of young or old. The pictures instantly fascinate every chi? J, imbuing it with a desire to do likewise. Teachers and parents at once become enthusiastic and delighted over the Tadd methods which this book enables them to put into practice. Not a hackneyed thought nor a stale picture. Fresh, new. practical, scientific, inspiring AMONG THOSE WHO ENDORSE THE WORK ARE flERBKRT SPENCER, DR. W. \V. KEENE, PRESIDENT HUEY-Of the Phi a delpliia board uf fdiicatioii. SECRETARY GOTZE— Of the leailins; peilagoiiical society ot Germany (by whlcfc the liiiok is l)eiMsr translati'il into Geiiiiaii for iiublicatioii at Berlin). ■ CHARLES H. THURHER-Professor of Pedasiosv, Universitv of Chicago. TALCOT I' WILLIAMS— Editor Phiiadelpliia Press, Book News, etc. R. H. WEBSTER— Superintendent of Schools, San Francisco. 1>R. A. !■;. WINSUIP— Editoi .Journal of Education. W. F. SLOCUVT— President Colorado Collesje. FREDEKK ;; '.^'INSOR— Head master Tlie Country School for BoyHOf Baltlinor& Cil\ , under th" airspices ot .Tohn-; Hopkins University. G. B. MORRISON-Principal Mann:*! TraininR High School, Kansas City. DR. EDWARD KIRK-Dean University of Penn. G. E. I)AWSON-(Clark University), Professor of Psychology, Bible Normi-.l CoUejje. ROMAN STEINER— Baltimore. SPECIFICATIONS: Size, TJ^xlOl^ inches, almost a quarto; 456 pai lbs. Boxed, price $3.00 net, postpaid to any part of the world. Orange :iudd Companv ■ew Tork, If. T., 52-54 Laf avette Place. Sprinef ield, Mass.. Bomesteal IMC. Chicane. HI., Marouette Boildinc. g SENT FREE ON APPLICATION g yi * ^ __ — . ^ I rXescriptive | I LJ Catalog 0,... I ««r m * Containing 100 Svo. pages, /'^'^N W\_ t^.J ly /\ I ^ S T profusely illustrated, and / /O \ if* yj^ giving full descriptions of ( T' j«-^ ,<-^ >-^ w r ^^ ^ % the best works on the foL V V__y |_> / \/ \ |^ ^Z /fV (If lowing subjects : V fj \_^\_^ |^ ^ 1 (I* a« f tt i*; ^:^r;^^- ^ ii i'S'?! Farm and Garden m J Ic/ii Fruits, Flowers, Etc. ^^ jg j^i Cattle, Sheep and Swine W Dogs, Horses, Riiing, Etc. «|» -^1 Poultry, Pigeons and Bees m (I* Angling and Fishing JJJ Boating, Canoeing and Sailing >»« Field Sports and Natural History |}J ^ .^,. Hunting, Shooting, Etc. jj iii ij^i Architecture smd Building (P 5 i^j Landscape Gardening ^ • Im: Household and Miscellaneous 5J 4r I*; . (f liif '!(< ^ Publishers and Importers jft I Orange Judd Company % 11^ 52 and 54 Lafayette Place % * NEW YORK ij <» s Ui n •■•• w * BOOKS WILL BE FORWARDED, POSTPAID, O.N Jg 5 RECEIPT OP PRICE m STANDARD BOOES. ^eenliousc construction. By Prof. L. R. Taft. A complete treatise on greenhouse structures and arrangements of the various forms and styloa of plant houses for professional florists as well as amateurs. All the best and most approved structures are so fully and clearly described that anyone who desirep to build a greenhouse will have no difficulty in deter- mining the kmd best suited to his purpose. The modern and most successful methods of heating and ventilating are fully treated upon. Special chapters are devoted to houses used for the growing of one kind of plants exclusively. Tho construction of hotbeds and frames receives appropriate attention. Over one hundred excel- lent illustrations, specially engraved for this work, make every point clear to tha reader and add considerably to the artistic appearance of the book. Cloth, 12mo. $1.50 Greenhouse Management. By L,. R. Taft. This book forms an almost indispensa- ble companion volum.e to Greenhouse Construction. In it the author gives the results of his many years' expe- rience, together with that of the most successful floristis and gardeners, in the management of growing plants under glass. So minute and practical are the various systemis and methods of growing and forcing roses, vio- lets, carnations, and all the most important florists' plants, as well as fruits and vegetables described, that by a careful study of this work and the following of its teachings, failure Is almost impossible. Illustrated, Cloth, 12mo $1.50 Bulbs and Tuberous-Rooted Plants. By C. Li. Allen. A comolete treatise on the history, description, methods of propagation and ftl!l directions for the successful culture of bulbs in the garden, dwel- ling and greenhouse. As generally treated, bulbs are an expensive luxury, while when properly managed, they afford the greatest amount of pleasure at the least cost. The author of this book has for many years made bulb growing a specialty, and is a recognized authority on their cultivation and management. The illustrations which embellish this work have been drawn from nature, and have been engraved especially for this book. The cultural directions are plainly stated, practical and to the point. Cloth, 12mo $1.50 Irrigfation Farming. By Lute Wilcox. A handbook for the practical applica- tion of water in the production of crops. A complete treatise on water supply, canal construction, reservoirs and ponds, pipes for irrigation purposes, flumes and their structure, methods of applying water, irrigation of field crops, the garden, the orchard and vineyard; wind- mills and pumps, appliances and contrivances. Profuse- ly, handsomely illustrated. Cloth. 12njO. , , S1.50 STANDARD BOOKS. Landscape Gardening:. By F. A. Waugh, professor of horticulture, University of Vermont. A treatise on the general principles governing outdoor art; with sundry suggestions for their application in the co.Timoner problems of gardening. Every para- graph is snort, terse and to the point, giving perfect clearness to the discussions at all points. In spite of the natural difficulty of presenting abstract principles the whole matter is made entirely plain even to the inexperienced reader. Illustrated, 12mo. Cloth. . $ .50 Fung:i and Fungicides. By Prof. Clarence M. Weed. A practical manual con- cerning the fungous diseases of cultivated plants and the means of preventing their ravages. The author has endeavored to give such a concise account of the most important facts relating to these as will enable the cultivator to combat them intelligently. 222 pp., 90 ill., 12mo. Paper. 50 cents; cioth $1.00 Talks on Manure. By Joseph Harris, M. S. A series of familiar and prac- tical talks between the author and the deacon, the doctor, and other neighbors, on the whole subject of manures and fertilizeis; including a chapter especially written for it by Sir John Bennet Lawes of Rothamsted, England. Cloth, 12mo $1.50 Insects and Insecticides. By Clarence M. Weed, D. Sc, Prof, of entomology and zoology. New Hampshire college of agriculture. A prac- tical manual concerning noxious insects, and methods of preventing their injuries. 334 pages, with many illus- trations. Cloth, 12mo $1.50 Mushrooms. How to Grow Them. By Wm. Falconer. This is the most practical work on the subject ever written, and the only book on growing mushrooms published in America. The author describes how he grows mushrooms, and how they are grown for profit by the leading market gardeners, and for home use by the most successful private growers. Engravings drawn from nature expressly for this work. Cloth. $1.00 Handbook of Plants and General Horticulture. By Peter Henderson. This new edition comprises about 50 per cent, more genera than the former one, and em- braces the botanical name, derivation, natural order, etc., together with a short history of the different genera, concise instructions for their propagation and culture, and all the leading local or common English names, together with a comprehensive glossary of botanical and technical terms. Plain instructions are also given for the cultivation of the principal vegetables, fruits and flowers. Cloth, large 8vo $3.00 STANDARD BOOKS. C^senr* Its Cultivation, Harvesting:, Marketing: and Market Value. By Maurice G. Kains, with a short account of its history and botany. It discusses in a practical way how to begin with either seed or roots, soil, climate and location, preparation, planting- and maintenance of the beds, arti- ficial propagation, manures, enemies, selection for mar- ket and for improvement, preparation for sale, and the profits that may be expected. This booklet is concisely written, well and profusely illustrated, and should be in the hands of all who expect to grow this drug to supply the export trade, and to add a new and profitable industry to their farms and gardens, without interfering v/ith the regular work. 12mo $ .35 Land Draining:. A handbook for farmers on the principles and practice of draining, by Manly Miles, giving the results of his extended experience in laying tile drains. The directions for the laying out and the construction of tile drains will enable the farmer to avoid the errors of imperfect construction, and the disappointment that must neces- Oarily follow. This manual for practical farmers will also be found convenient for references in regard to many questions that may arise in crop growing, aside from the special subjects of drainage of which it treats. Cloth, 12m.o. $1.00 Henderson's Practical Floriculture. By Peter Henderson. A guide to the successful propaga- tion and cultivation of florists' plants. The work is not one for florists and gardeners only, but the amateur's wants are constantly kept In mind, and we have a very complete treatise on the cultivation of flowers under glass, or in the open air, suited to those who grow flowers for pleasure as well as those who make them a matter of trade. Beautifully illustrated. New and enlarged edition. Cloth, 12mo $1.50 Tobacco Leaf. By J. B. Killebrew and Herbert Myrlck. Its Culture and Cure, Marketing and Manufacture. A practical handbook on the most approved methods in growing, harvesting, curing, packing, and selling tobacco, with an account of the operations in every department of tobacco manufacture. The contents of this book are based on actual experiments in field, curing barn, packing house, factory and laboratory. It is the only work of the kind in existence, and is destined to be the standard practical and scientific authority on the whole subject of tobacco for many years. Upwards of fiOO pages and 150 original •ngravings «••• $2.00 STANDARD BOOKS. nay and Profit in My liaraen. By E. P. Roe. The author takes us to his garden on the rockv hillsides in the vicinity of West Point, and shows us how out of it, after four years' experience, he evoked a profit of $1,000, and this while carrying on pas- toral and literary labor. It is very rarely that so much literary taste and skill are mated to so much agricultural experience and good sense. Cloth, 12mo. . . $1.00 Forest Planting:. By H. Nicholas Jarchow, LL. D. A treatise on the care of woodlands and the restoration of the denuded timber- lands on plains and mountains. The author has fully described thoF^e European methods whlcli have proved to be most useful in maintaining the superb forests of the old world. This experience has been adapted to the dif- ferent climates and trees of America, full instructions being given for forest planting of our various kinds of soil and subsoil, whether on mountain or valley. Illustrated, 12mo $1-50 Soils and Crops of the Farm. By George E. Morrow, M. A., and Thomas F. Hunt. The methods of making available the plant food in the soil are described in popular language. A short history of each of the farm crops is accompanied by a discussion of its culture. The useful discoveries of science are explained as applied in the most approved methods of culture. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo $1-00 American Fruit Culturist. By John J. Thomas. Containing practical directions for the propagation and culture of all the fruits adapted to the United States. Twentieth thoroughly revised and greatly enlarged edition by Wm. H. S. Wood. This new edition makes the work practically almost a new book, containing everything pertaining to large and small fruits as well as sub-tropical and tropical fruits. Richly Illustrated by nearly 800 engravings. 758 pp., 12mo. $2.50 Fertilizers. By Edward B. Voorhees, director of the New Jersey Agri- cultural Experiment Station. It has been the aim of the author to point out the underlying principles and to discuss the important subjects connected with the use of fertilizer materials. The natural fertility of the soil. the functions of manures and fertilizers, and the need of artificial fertilizers are exhaustively discussed. Sepa- rate chapters are devoted to the various fertilizing ele- ments, to the purchase, chemical analyses, methods of using fertilizers, and the best fertilizers for each of the most important field, garden and orchard crops. 335 pp. .,,,,.,,.. .ItOw STANDARD BOOKS. Gardening: for Profit. By Peter Henderson. The standard work on market and family gardening. The successful experience of the author for more than thirty years, and his willingness to tell, as he does in this work, the secret of his success for the benefit of others, enables him to give most valuable information. The book is profusely illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. $1.50 Herbert's Hints to Horse Keepers. By the late Henry William Herbert (Frs.nk Forester). This is one of the best and most popular works on the horse prepared in this country. A complete manual for horsemen, em.bracing: How to breed a horse; how to buy a horse; hov/ to break a horse; how to use a horse; how to feed a horse; how to physic a horse (allopathy or ho- moeopathy); how to groom a horse; how to drive a horse;' how to ride a horse, etc. Beautifully illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. $1.50 Barn Plans and Outbiiildin§:s. Two hundred and fifty-seven illustrations. A most val- uable woik, full of ideas, hints, suggestions, plans, etc., for the construction of barns and outbuildings, by prac- tical writers. Chanters are devoted to the economic erection and use of barns, grain barns, house barns, cattle barns, sheep barns, corn houses, smoke houses, ice hou.ses, pig pens, granaries, etc. There are likewise chapters on bird houses, dog houses, tool sheds, ventila- tors, roofs and roofing, doors and fastenings, workshops, poultry houses, manure sheds, barnyards, root pits, etc, Cloth, 12mo $1,0(1 Cranberry Culture. By Joseph J. "White. Contents*. Natural history, history of cultivation, choice r>f location, preparing the ground, planting the vin-^s, management of meadows, flooding, enemies and difficulties overcome, picking, keeping, pro- fit and loss. Cloth, 12mo $1.0« Ornamental Gardening: for Americans. By Elias A. Long, landscape architect. A treatise on beautifying homes, rural districts and cemeteries. A plain and practical work with nume) ous illustrations anii instructions so plain that they may be readily followed. Illustrated. Clo'^h, 12mo $1.50 Grape Culturist. By A. S. Fuller. This is one of the very best of works on the culture of the hardy grapes, with full directions for all departments of propagation, culture, etc., with 150 excellent engravings, illustrating planting, training, grafting, etc Cloth, 12mo. ..,,.. $1.59 STANDARD BOOKS. Turkeys and How to Grow Them. Edited by Herbert Myrick. A treatise on the n&t ural his- tory and origin of the name of turlieys; the various breeds, the best methods to insure success in the business of turlcey growing. Witli essays from practical turlcey growers in different parts of the United States and Can- ada. Copiously illustrated. Cloth. 12mo. . , $1,00 Profits > Poultry. Usefaf and ornamental href ds and their profitable man- . agement. This excellent work contains the combined experience of a number of practical men in all depart- ments of poultry raising. It =s profusely illustrated and forms a unique and import ^^nt addition to our poultry literature. Cloth, 12mo $1.00 How Crops Grow. By Prof. Sam.uel W. Johnson of Yale College. New and revised edition. A treatise en the chemical composition, structure and life of the plant. This book is a guide to the knowledge of agricultura' plants, their composition, their structure and modes of development and growth; of the complex organization of plants, and the use of the parts; the germination of seeds, and the food of plants obtained both from the air and the soil. The book is mdispensable to all renl students of agriculture. With numerous illustrations an--? tables of analysis. Cloth, 12mo. $1.50 Coburn's Swine Husbandry. By F. D. Coburn. New, revised and enlarged edition. The breeding, rearing, and manajgem^nt of swine, and the prevention and treatment of their diseases. It is the full- est and freshest compendium relating ''o swine breeding yet offered. Cloth, 12mo $1.50 Stewart's Shepherd's Manual. By Henry Stewait. A valuable practical treatise on the sheep for American farmers and sheep growers. It is so plain that a farmer or a farmer's son who has never kept a sheep, may learn from its pages how to manage a flock successfully, and yet so complete that ^ven the experienced shepherd may gather many suggestions from it. The results of personal experience of some vcarg with the characters of the various modern breeis of sheep, and the sheep raising capabilities of many por- tions of our extensive territory and that of Canada— an4 the careful study of the diseases to which our sheep are chiefly subject, with those by which they may even- tually be afflicted through unforeseen accidents— as well us the methods of management called for undei our nircumstances, are carefully described. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. . . . - ?1-00 STANDARD BOOKS, Feeds and Feeding:. By W. A. Henry. This handbook for students and stock men constitutes a compendium of practical and useful knowledge on plant growth and animal nutrition, feed- ing stuffs, feeding animals and every detail pertaining to this important subject. It is thorough, accurate and reliable, and is th' .»iost valuable contribution to live stock literature in many years. All the latest and best information is cleai ly and systematically presented, mak- ing the work indispensable to every owner of live stock. 658 pages, 8vo. Cloth. ....... $2.00 Hunter and Trapper. By Halsey Thrasher, an old and experienced sportsman. The best modes of hunting and trapping are fully ex- plained, and foxes, deer. Dears, etc., fall into his traps readily by following his directions. Cloth, 12mo. $ .50 The Ice Crop. By Theron L. Hiles. How to harvest, ship and use ice. A complete, practical treatise for farmers, dairymen, ice dealers, produce shippers, meat packers, cold storers, and all interested in ice houses, cold storage, and the handling or use of ice in any way. Including many recipes for iced dishes and beverages. The book is illustrated by cuts of the tools and machinery used in cutting and storing ice, and the different forms of ice houses and cold storage buildings. 122 pp., ill., 16mo. Cloth. . $1.0(1 Practical Forestry. By Andrew S. Fuller. A treatise on the propagation, planting and cultivation, with descriptions and the botan- ical and popular names of all the indigenous trees of the United States, and notes on a large number of the most valuable exotic species $1.5ft Irrigation for tlie Farm, Garden and Orchard. By Henry Stewart. This work is offered to those Amer- iean farmers and other cultivators of the soil who, from painful experience, can readily appreciate the losses which result from the scarcity of water at critical periods. Fully illustrated. Cloth, 12mo $1.00 Market Gardening and Farm Notes. By Burnett T.,andreth. Experiences and observation for both North and South, of interest to the amateur gar- dener, trucker and farmer. A novel feature of the book is the calendar of farm and garden operations for each month of the year; the chapters on fertilizers, trans- planting, succession and rotation of crops, the packing, shipping and marketing of vegetables will be especially useful to market gfardeners. Cloth, 12mo. . . $1.00 A > 1^ 21239 - -i^C m m V '