lift. (/r<:^^ kw, WMh Nortlj OlaroUna S'tatF R TS1575 B4 This book was presented by John W. Clark Tex. lib, For Reference Not to be taken from this room MftE BOOKCASE RARE BOOKCASE VM H^^^^" ■■^ mv-. br ' mu'^l ~ot be ■» '^< "5) ,t?-V '* •■ «- Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from NCSU Libraries http://www.archive.org/details/cottonfabricsglOOfran For Reference Not to be taken from this room U ' W. A. GRAHAM ATLANTA, < tULB. average yarn count, breadth in inches, total threads per sq.in. wt.ln yds. per 111. a constant that for fine 48 is 756 and for coarse As C ' .. AxC Illustrat ions « TTj36*,3yard, 48x48', T3"8.& 14s 36 x96x3 A= "TSh = 1^.5. (2)38i",5.80yard,60x56,30B.&2 38^x116x5.80 A= 756 s 34.3. "CAN HE DELIVER THE GOODS?" in the tneasttre for a man now- adays ; and the same for a belt, B HO ADS LEATHER BELTING will keep your machinery going. Let us mail yoti our catalogue. J. E. RHOADS & SONS PHILADELPHIA, 13 N. Third St. NEW YORK, 40 Fulton St. BOSTON, Hamblet & Hayes Co., Eastern Agents, 105-111 Summer St. Factory. WILMINGTON. DEL. sO^^iX MRE BQOKCAa ^hQ OTIS TUBULAR FEED WATER HEATER, OIL SEPARATOR AND PURIFIER EXHAUST 1 INLET EXHAUST \ OUTLET is not an experi- ment but a tried and tested appliance that the makers are not afraid to GUARANTEE To heat the feed water to the boiling point (210 or 212 desieea) with the exhaust steam without causing any back pressure, nlso to extract the oil from the exhaust, so that the exhaust steam after being passed through the heater can be used for heating purposes, and the water of condensation for the heating system be relumed to the iioiler without the additional expense of an eliminator. We are so sure of the OTIS that we agree to pay all cost of a trial — freight, cartage, piping, etc., if it fails to do all we claim for it. CATALOGUE AND PRICES AT YOUR SERVICE The Stewart Heater Company 218 Norfolk Ave., BUFFALO, N. Y. jt^o^i ' OD^ :"i'^f ( LANE PATENT STEEL FRAME CANVAS MILL BOXES BASKETS and TRUCKS Made in all styles, shapes and sizes to suit requirements. Materials used are always highest quality. Workmanship as perfect as skilled and experienced workmen can make it. Our product is the result of years exclusively devoted to originating and developing this highest type and most perfect of all movable mill receptacles. MANUFACTURED ONLY BY W. T. LANE & BROTHER Office and Works : POUGHKEEPSIE, N. Y., U. S. A. RARE BOOKCASE How TO Popularize IRRIGATION BONDS Among Eastern Investors [COPYRIGHT APPLIED FOR] FROM THE PUBLISHED BY Frank P. Bennett & Co., Inc. 530 Atlantic Avenue, Boston ; 3 I Nassau'Street, New York : 757 Broadway. New York; 308 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia ; 208 Corcoran Building. Washington, D. C. : 930 Monadnock Block, Chicago ; 215 Fourth Avenue, Pittsburgh, Pa. ; 536 Empire Building, Denver, Colo. ; 440 Constitution Building, Salt Lake City. / A. GRAHAM CLA ^^-^ ATLANTA, GA. A Cotton Fabrics Glossary Containing instruftions for the manufacture of every known grade and variety of Cotton Fabrics ^rice $3M Wij^ Frank P. Bennett & Co., Inc. Boston, New York, Philadelphia, Chicago, Washington, Pittsburgh, Salt Lake City. ^^-^ii^^r. /"X^ -r .5M^ /it-'^ Of- ,|tf^ii4,4-/^-'/t'^ (j.'^^' .■;y.,^-^^^"^^; E Cotton fabrics Glossary CONTAINING INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE MANUFACTUR E OF EVERY KNOWN GRADE AND VARIETY OF COTTON FABRICS [Copyrighted 1896 hy BentiPlVx In/ormation Jf/rnri/] "PIQUE" OR "MARSEILLES." The quilted weave, as applied to cotton, fabrics, is known among weav- ers as the "Marseilles" weave. It is a double cloth, the face being a moder- ately close, plain weave. The back is a very open, plain weave. Between the back and face a soft twisted heavy filling, called "stuflBng," is woven. The two cloths are stitched together at frequent intervals in weaving, the stitches being arranged so as to suflB- ciently bind the two cloths together, and at the same time form an orna- mental design or pattern. The "stuf- fing" between the cloths gives the fab- ric the embossed effect. THE FACE being plain woven is drawn into hed- dles as for sheeting. The back is also a plain weave, but the back warp is also the quilting warp, and has to be mounted in a "jacquard" harness, un- less the pattern is small enough to be produced on a "dobby." • Two face threads and one back (or quilting) thread are drawn into each dent of reed. The construction is shown in diagram, Fig. 1. ^1 SIN Two threads of face and one ^ed. Ba/Ck warp ^■■^■B Rack FiUme Is on a separate beam, and con- TBBnBB st.ini.f Fuunf tatns one-half the number of SgRggS '''^"■..'''"•"e threads that are in the face naimaa n^ick Fiiiim:* Fig. 1. piodicates that the thread is niis<-|ii»ril onI> wi.en uj'e(0. 80. 98 " •■ Btiiffinx No. 40. The picks are thrown in two face and two stuffing regularly. At 30- inches wide the goods would weigh, 4 65-100 yards per pound. IN THIS EXAMPLE the average number of the face yam is given. The fabric looks better and A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. wears better, if warp and filling on face are alike, but it Helps the weav- ing out wonderfully to have a consid- erable difiference between the two, the wari) being from 10 to 20 per cent heavier than the tilling. it is beyond the scope of an element- ary article like this to attempt any description of the means used to pro- duce the ornate designs of the fabric. The artist who originates textile de- signs must draw each design to fit the fabric he is dealing wiih. Bach fabric has its special characteristics as to de- sign, and each also has its limitations. The characteristics and limits of the fabric under consideration may be here stated. COLOR EFFECTS. 1. Color effects are hardly admis- sible. The fabric is essentially a white one. The quilting warp is sometimes colored, so as to show a pattern com- posed of colored lines and dots on a whue ground. The design is not there- by altered, for the pattern woven with colored stitching may also be woven entirely white. 2. The fabric admits only of a de- sign of "dots" arranged to produce large designs. :',. In the vestings and fabrics with small patterns, the quilting warp threads, when not raised to make a stitch, are floated. The dots then should be arranged so as to avoid very long floats. 4. On counterpanes the design has to be very large, and has to be pro- duced on a "jacquard" machine of com- pai'atively small capacity. This calls for a design that can be enlarged in the tie-up of the harness and to this end certain parts of the design are ar- ranged so as to admit of several repe^ tifions. THE NAME "PIQUE" is now generally applied to this fabric when woven in small patterns within the capacity of the "dobby." This name particularly applies when the goods are to be used for ladies' and children's dresses, men's shirt fronts, etc. However, the fabric that is called "pique" when used for dresses or shirt fronts, would be a "Marseilles" if made up into a man's vest. The name "pique" is probably from the French "piquer," to quilt or prick with a needle. Possibly the name "Mar- seilles" is also a corruption of the French "matelas," a quilt or mattress. A CORDED "MARSEILLES." or "pique" is essentially the same fab- ric as the figured article, but is woven rather differently. The warp is drawn into a three-shed harness like a com- mon three-shed twill. To produce the corded effect the harnesses are op- erated by a doboy. Two warps are used as in the preceding cases, one warp having twice as many threads as the other; the quilting warp is drawn into the back harness, the face warp in the middle and front. The pegging plan of dobby chain is shown at Fig. 2. Dl I Stuffing DBD ^"ce filling aam •• ama amm atumn; □□■ □■D " aom Fig. 2. As this weave calls for four picks of face filling and two picks of stuffing in succession, the lathe need only have drop boxes on one end. QUILT WEAVE GOODS should be finished so as to preserve, as far as possible, the convexity or puff of the quilting. To this end, after bleaching and sizing, they should be dried on tenter-hooks. The piece goods can be dried on the tentering machine, through which they should run face down. The quilts or coun- terpanes are handled singly, and are stretched on square tentering frames and dried in a hot room. There is a fabric on the market called "P K," which is often confounded with "pique," the names having the same sound. "P K" iK a float weave and the fabric bears no relation to "pique" or "Marseilles."' TUCKS. Cotton Wash Fabric. A tuck fabric is a single cloth and is made by using two or more warps, is generally composed of all cotton, cotton and silk, and all silk, and can be made on any loom having either a dobby or a jacquard attachment, and single or double box, double box looms, of course, giving great scope for filling patterns. A tuck effect in a cloth is a perfect pleat running across the cloth from one selvage to the other and was used extensively a few years ago in making A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. fancy bosoms for men's outing or neglige shirts and ladies' waisting, very elaborate effects being produced by weaving ground cloth in colors either harmonizing with or contrast- ing to that of the tuck. Two different numbers of filling are used in this fabric, namely, a fine one for the plain ground or flat part of the cloth, and a coarse number for the tuck as the tuck is a filling effect, and the coarse filling causing it to stand out more prominently from the ground fabric than would be the case if fine numbers of filling were used to form the whole fabric. In making a common tuck effect two Drawing-in Draft. aaoaacam aaaaaamD DanDDBDQ nDDDBnna aanmanna oama odd DBoaonDD ■ancDDDD □■r)Ba»uu ■Daoaniia aacBDaaa ■CBOaGBD DBDBaBDa ■OaGBOBG DBaBGBGB BOB BGBO □BGBZIBDB BGanaGBD naGiGBGa BGBGBGBG DBGBGBGB BGBGBGBG . GBCBJBGB -o b""B7_"::bg C GBGBGBGB t: BGB'1'B~BG S GBGB~BGB P BG^GB-^BG h GBGBGBDB "^ BGBGBGBG a, GBGBGBGB aBuGGBGB DnDBOGGB CBGGCBGG o gb: GGGBGGGB '" GBGGGbcG 0) gggbgggb — gbggghgg t: gggbgggb -t gbggcbgg > gggbgggb _ GB:=GGbGG — CG-BGGGB - GB_GGBGG u GGGBGGGB DaaaaaaBDanBDanBDaoaaDBaaDaaaDaDaDDGaa nBaaDBDBaBDBDBDaDaDaDaaaaaGBDaBDaaBDBDBDBGaBBDn ananaGaGaaaGaGsaaaaDaDaDaGaaaaaGGaGaGaDaaaDaaQG Drawing-in Draft. naaaaaDCGGnnGGGDaGGGGDGaGGGGGGGaacGccGGcccDccHa DGGQGG GDaGnnaaGQQGGGaacOQC'GCBaGCanGGCGGGCCaBGG naGaaaGBaaGBGGaaGGaBGaGBGGGaaGGaaGacorBGGan Dra aGaGaGaGaaaaaaaaGDaGGQaaGGBa aaaQBGanaacGBGGGGa DaaaaaaGaaGGGaGGGaoDGaDGaaGGGGanDGGaaGGDaGCGOGQ BGDaaGGGaaanBaaaaGnDacaaaaanaDDacccancnBGCcGCGn Reed Plan. Note.- -Design is two repeats in filling, and is intended to tion between first and second repeat. show connec- Dyeing Particulars for Madras. Following are dyeing particulars for good madras shades: LIGHT GREEN. Mordant yarn with 2 per cent tannic acid. Give 5 turns and fix with 2 per cent tartar emetic. Wash well. Dye 1 per cent new methylene blue G G, 14 per cent thioflavine T. Wash well. PINK. Mordant yarn with 2 per cent tannic acid. Give 5 turns and fix with 2 per cent tartar emetic. Wash well. Dye 9 ounces acridine red 6 B, 3 ounces rhodamine 3 G. C. Bischoff & Co. Wash well. most successfully made in Fairmount, Bridesburg. Mutual Mason 4x1, Cromn- ton 6x1 gingham loom,or 4x1 box, roll- er loom, using four harness or heddle shafts, and having as a selvage eight double ends on each side. Gingham warps are made in two lengths, 720 yards and 1,080 yards, and these lengths being subdivided into shorter lengths or cuts, usually 14 and 21, respectively. When a gingham warp is woven out the set of harnesses or heddles, it is taken out of the loom, and is placed in a twisting frame and twisted, an opera- tion which means the fastening to- gether, by means of the fingers, of those ends remaining in the set of harness, and those of the new warp. A practised 10 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. operator can accomplish this work at the raie of 50 to60 ends per minute, and ■he is generally a boy of perhaps 16 years of age. Loom fixers each have a section of looms numbering 60, to care for and keep in good running order. FINISHING GINGHAMS. The goods are taken from the loom and conveyed to the wareroom.and the ■ends of several pieceis or cuts are sewn (chain stitch) together on a sew- ing machine, thus making a continu- ous length of cloth of several hundred yards, about 300 yards. (This is done to facilitate handling.) It is now run through the sprinkler, the object of which is to dampen the <;loth in such a manner as to improve its receptive qualities in the sizing op- •eration. The sprinkler is a machine having a box arranged on its top. Through this l)ox is passed a roller having bristles set on end at regular intervals, similar to the brush in a carpet sweeper: the box is fed with water by means of a small pipe, and the cloth on entering the machine passes over the roller brush, which in revolving comes in con- tact with the water, and spreads it over the cloth, which is drawn through the machine by means of deliverj^ rollers at the opposite end. From the sprinkler, it goes to the size tubs, where it is given a good amount of starch sizing. It is next run through the cylinders to dry it, and then run throughthetentering machine, Avhich operation is a continuing of the •drying process, also stretching the cloth in width. It is then passed through the calender, which is a sort of hot press, and in which operation it is smoothed, and receives the desired glaze on the face of the cloth. From the calender the cloth goes to the lap- ping machine, where it is rolled around a small wooden board, known as -a lapboard, the operator making a bolt of each cut of cloth, the length of which is governed by the subdivision of warp. After the lapping operation, the cloth, ■which is now in the shape of a bolt lace, while he tucks in the ends. The bolt is then stitched with a strong cord, twice through each end; the ends are then singed with a gas flame to remove odd scraps of filling threads. The bolts of cloth are then placed in a plate press in the following ■order: three or four bolts are laid flat side by side in the press, and a zinc or other metal plate placed upon them. This is repeated until the press is filled with desired number of pieces or bolts, the top of the press is then run down by means of a belt connecting with a driving shaft, and the goods allowed to remain in this condition several hours, after which the paper bands are placed around them and they are ready for shipment. The following is a list of standard gingham patterns, known as two shuttle checks and usually made in blue, brown, green, black, red, colors. Warp and filling: 2-2, 4-4, 6-6, 8-8, 10- ili '' ii^'i§^4i4l'<4il' 10, 12-12. 14-14, 16-16, 18-18, 20-20, 24- 24, the pattern reading: Warp and fining. 2 Blue „_ 24 Blue 2 White ""^ 24 White For side pattern effects use same colors: 4—2, 8—4, 6—4. 10—6, 20—10. :o— 6— 2— 6 Read in this manner: 10 Blue 1 2 Blue" j-Warp and filling. 6 White j Staple ginghams are known to the mill man as 900, 1,200, 1,400, meaning 900 reed. 1,200 reed, 1,400 reed. Those made with a 1,400 reed are usually in- tended as an imitation of zephyr ging- hams. A good grade of ginghams can be made thus: reed, 900 — two ends per dent; 29 inches in width; 44 picks fill- A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. il ing. Finish, 27 inches. Clieck pattern. Weight about 2.1 ounces; l-26s cotton warp and filling. Plain weave. A better grade thus: reed, 1,200 — two ends per dent; 29 inches in width; 52 picks filling. Finish, 27 inches; weight 2% ounces; l-30s cotton warp and fill- ing; generally stripe patterns; plain weave. A fine grade thus: reed, 1.400 — two ends per dent; 29 inches in width; 60 picks filling. Finish,27 inches; weight 1» a> hLoj Design. DDDaDDQBZBaBaCCDaaDBCBCB DaagaaBUBu^LiuucDODBiaiiDBD ciDDuaaLj*u«u«uuuu^aLi«n«rB naDaaGiJBu«LjBD^zcjGuL.«i"Bri[ DaQDDa«DBa«a^DL^,^GB"|i"BD naaBDBBaaaBa-BDBcaaBBBBB BaaaBaBBSBBkB-B^BGBBBBBB QBDBGBBeii^titBBLJkCB BBBBBBB BaBaBnt23tB£^>i)&BB^auBG'BaHaBB DaGaDaBSS4>:iaaGa'_aGaaaaaaB BaflUaJBB£5BBB>GBJBLBaaBBB DnanDnnaaanacnGCGDnanaaa □□aDDDajanaDGDaDaDBCBGan - □□aaDDBaaDaannDDDuaijaGa □naDDDBDajanDaDGnDBDBuaD aanaajQana" aoDDnaanaDBna aDaaaaaaaaBODDanaDBDBDBn gBDaGBBBBaBaDBaBaaaaaaaB aDByaDBaaBaaBDBGBaaaQaaa □■□■aaaaBBBBnaGaDaasiE3E3Ba BgBaBaBBBBBBBGBDBGSSSeSB DBDBaBBB^BBBnBGBGBBSS^BB aaBDBaBBBBBBCBaBOBBBSBBB SIX white SIX black i2ySRaSPS°D""L3D""°CBBGDBB (U 5 ■BDnBBDDBBanBBaGBBGGBBan t" S gDDpannBnaDBnnaaaDGBaanB DGnDDDB JCGBGnCGnGGBGaGBa DBDDnBganBacGBGaaBGaaBaG ■□pnogaGBQGGBGGGGDnaBaaG DDDDajaaGG QGGBaBnaa ggq DanngpgaGaaDDGnBanaaDnnn anBaBgngaGaaacaaaanoDDDD bo c ^ ganaBBDBDBGBaBGBnBDBBaBB m . BnaGBgagBgaaaGaDBaaGBBBD " c gBgagBgaBaBaaaaaDanaaana , greens, wines, and very soon there will be a full range of shades made, to match all colors required in cotton goods. The immedial blues are as tast as the indigo shades so long used for all fast colors. PINK. For 100 pounds raw stock, cotton: 20 pounds Glauber's salt; 2 pounds sal soda; 5 ounces diamine rose G D Enter at boil and boil one hour. Wash well in water. BLUE. For 100 pounds raw stock, cotton; 20 pounds Glauber's salt; 2 pounds sal soda; iy2 pounds diamine blue B X. Enter at boil and boil one houi\ Wash well in water. The diamine rose G D and the diamine blue B X are from the Cassella Color Co. and are very level dyeing colors and very fast to light and washing. A variety of colors, of course, can be used in the dyeing of this fabric. ZEPHYR GINGHAM. Zephyr gingham is the finest grade of gingham made, and is a light-weight cotton faibric, composed of l-40s to 1- BOs cotton warp and filling yarns. It is woven with either the nlain weave or a small all-over dobby effect. It is made in very attractive patterns by using good fast colors in warp and 16 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. filling, and, as a cloth, has splendid wearing qualities. From TWO TO TEN COLORS can be used in both warp and filling, the filling colors being governed by the number of shuttles the loom will run, and this number is increaiSed by the in- troduction of fancy colored, printed yarns. Zephyr gingham is made up into Zephyr gingham. such patterns as light and dark tone, shaded plaids, corded and ribbed stripes, small checks and broad, deli- cately colored plaids, having a random printed yarn coloring, and this last combination is woven on a dobby loom, using as a design a small broken twill arrangement. The effect produced is something on the order of a jacquard pattern. MIXED COLOR EFFECTS are made by dressing the warp, one end white, one end fancy print, for, Zephyr gingham. say, 100 ends, and then making a rib by using a satin weave for eight or ten ejids of a dark color, such as black, blue or red brown. This style is made in stripes, as stated above, also in plaids by using all white filling to cross the one and one dressing in the warp and a correspondingly dark colored fill- ing squared with tihe .s-atin rib in the wary). CORDED EFFECTS are produced by drawing in 2, 3, 4. ends in one heddle and split, and this is Cord Cord oaaanaGDDanBGBnBaBaaBBLia BDaDaaaaaaaDaaBDBDBuaQaa BDaaBuaaBaaaaaaDaaaDGaaa Design. aBDaaaaGGaGBcaDacaaBaaaa aaaaaGaaaGBCDGaGaGaGGGaa □aaaDacGGara^a" aGBGaaBGa Baaaaaaa* :■ -■...■zbjbgggbg DaDGaacG :z--^-_, -zgccggggg DGOnaGGG u^i ^GGGGCGGGCGG DGGaaaGGacar^DDQCaaDGGGD DGaGGGGGGaCGGGGGGGGCGGCG naGBnGGGG«GGGBGGCBGGaaaa Drawine-in- DGBLjaaBGaGaGaDGGBGCDa^aa ■^^"^"•"s aaQOGaGaDGGiia -caGGGBGDGa draft BGDQaaGQaaaGGDaa "-GaGGGca aDaGGGGGGaUGGGDGnGGGGGGa DGGGaODGaaaQGDaQGGDCGDGa Goaa GaaaG^aaGoaa GaaaGO Reed nlan. aaaaaaDaGi iGGaaDDCi Warp cfTect aGBGBGacaaaaaGaaaaacaGBG G'GBGBGBiaaGBBBBanaGaGBGa nDBGBGHGBBBBBBBGBGBGaaBG GBGBGBGBBBaBGBaBGB BGBGB 'Dp'^io'n BGBGBGBGBGBBBBaHB BGBGBG •^>:^^!="- GBGBGBGBBnBBBnGBGBGaGBGa BGBGHGBGBABGBIOBaGaGBGBG GaGBGBGBGBBMBHailGBGBGBGB GJGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGCD aGGGGGGGGGCaGGGGaGGGaGCa L GGGGG ^GGGGGGGGGl GGGGCGG C OnGUGaGGCaaGGGGDCGGCaDa L DQ .GCDGGG GaUGeGi GGGGGG G GGnaGnGGDaaaaGGG..GuGGG 1 'GGD aDGGaGCBGGG^LGGQQa GaaCQaGCaaGGBGQGGLG DGGG T,„.,„.:_„ ;,, nDaaDnGGGGaaGGGGCGcaaaDa -Lraw ing-in- GGGDGGGaDGBJGGGaaGaQ GGD Hr-aft GaGQnGGaGBGGGGGQaGDGnGan aran. GGGGGCGGBCGGGGLGGl^G g gg GGGBG GBGGGGGaGGCGGBGGCB aGBGGaaGaoGaGGGGGaaGaGBG GBaaGBGGaGGCGQGQGiaG^Gaaj aaaaaa DGGGGGaaQBGaGaa a QaGGGGaGGGGGGaGDDDGaaGaa GD, DGaGCnGGGGanaGGGGG^GD ' DGaaGGBBGGGGBaBaaQBBGaaa Reed plan an__BBaGiiHan_^^GGaaG^BBGG -^'"-"^" van. Fancy Dobby Weave Zephyr. BGBGBGBGBGBBBGGG GaDBGaGBGaaBGBGa BBBGBGaGBaaaaGGG BBBBGBBBGBBBGB G BBBGBBBGBBBGBGGG GBGBaBBBCBGBGBGU Dp^io-n BGBGBBBGBGBGBGGG ■L't^t^'oH- DBGBBBGB ^BGBCBGG BBBGBBaGBBBGB GG DBGBBBGBB aBBGBGG BGBGBGBBBBBGBGQG Harness GBBBGBGBBBBBGBGG BBBBBGBGBBBGBGGG cham BBBBGBGBGBGBGBGG BBBBBGBGBGBGBGGG exactly GBBBGBGBGBGBGBGG ... „ BGBGBGBGBGBGBGGD like GBQBGBDB^BGBGBGG j„^;„„ BGBGBGBBBBBGBGaa design. BBGBGBBBBBBBLBGG BBBGaBBBBBBBCGGG BBBBBBBBGBBBGGGG BBBBBBBGBGBBBGGG GBBBBBGBGBGBuBGG BGBBBGBGBGBGBGDD GBGBGBGBGBGBGBGO GBGBBGBGBGBGBBGD BBBBGBGBGBGBGBGG GGGGGGGGGGaaCDGa QaDGGGGGaGDGGGan GaDGGGGaaGGQLBGG GGGGGGaGGGGGBaGG DGGGGGGGGGGBGGGQ □GGGGGGGaDBOGGOa aGGGGGGGGBGGGGGG DDDGGGGGBGCGGaaG DDDGGGGBGGGDGGGa T,_„_,i„„ :„ GUDaGGBGaaaaaDDD J-rawina-in- draft. DaaGGBGaDGDaaaaG DGGGBaa caDGGcaa aaaBDDDGGcaDDGGa DnBDGaaaaaDaQGDn QBaaaQncaaaaDDDG BGDaaDDDDQanGGDa DGaDGDaDcaGDaGaD nnDDDQanDaDGGcaa GGBBOGBBaGBBGCVa Pppfl nln n BBDCBBGGBBaaBBJjj t>.eea pian. squared in the filling by using a cor- respondingly heavy thread, as, for in- stance, 3 ends l-4ns warp in one heddle and 1 pick of 3-40s in filling. This A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 1? would require such a loom as the Knowleis 4x4 box dobby loom. For a roller loom, using plaiu weave, and making a cord, draw warp in, as stated above, or make two cords side by side by drawing in two ends per heddle and four ends iu split, and square this by two picks, each of l-20s cotton fill- ing. Zephyr gingham can be woven on any roller loom. Of this style loom the 4x1 box is the more suitable. For more elaboraite filling patterns there is the Crompton 6x1 box gingham loom, and for fancy weave effect take a loom having a spring bottom dobby motion attaxihe^. COLORS FOR ZEPHYR. Black, light blue, dark blue, light browTi, pink, red, tan, ecru, canary, orange, new blue, old gold. Print yarns can be obtained of almost any color desired. A good grade of zephyr gingham is made as follows: Reed 1,500, two ends per split, 29 inches wide, 80 picks; weight, two ounces about; l-50s cotton warp and fillins:; finish 27 inches. COLOR EFFECT. V t'arp pattern. 4 Brown. 4 Blue. 8 Brown. 6 Blue. 6 Brown. 8 Blue. 4 Brown. 8 Blue 1 White cord equals 3 ends. 8 Blue. 2 White. 1 White cord equals 3 ends. 2 White. 4 Blue. 4 White. 1 White cord equals 3 ends. 4 White. 2 Blue. 8 White. 1 White Cord equals 3 ends. S White. 2 Blue. 4 White. 1 White cord equals 3 ends. 4 White. 4 Blue. 2 White. 1 White cord equals 3 ends. 2 White. 8 Blue. 1 White cord equals 3 ends. 8 Blue. 4 Brown, 8 Blue. SHADED PLAID. Filling same as warp pattern. Pattern continued. G Brown: 6 Blue. 8 Brown. 4 Blue. 4 Brown. 2 Black. 4 Brown. 1 White cord equals 3 ends. 4 Brown. 4 Black. 4 Brown. 1 White cord equals 3 ends. 4 Brown. 2 Black. The finish consists of sprinkling and of running cloth throug'h very thin siz- ing, after which it is temtered and cal- endered. Carding Particulars. Various grades of cotton as well as different lengths of staple are used for the class of goods described. The length of staple used for the former goo'ds is about l^^ inches and generally American cotton is used. The mix- ings should be as large as possible so as to obtain an even yarn. It will be at once seen that if small mixings are used there will be some little differ- ence in each mixing and just this little difference will show up in the finished yarn. This applies not only to this mixing for the class of goods described but to aill mixings foT all goods, and THE MIXING of cotton is one of the most particular points of carding, because if different lengths of staple are allowed to be mixed together, it is bound to cause trouble in addition to uneven j-arn. Every bale of cotton should be sepa- rately stapled before it is allowed to be put into the mixing, and if the staple is longer or shorter than the cotton already mixed, it should be put one side. The cotton should be run through openers "and two processes of pickers, although a great many mills use three processes; but all the newer plants be- ing built have only two processes of pickers. The SPEED OF THE BEATER should be about 1,050 revolutions per minute for the opener anid 1,500 rev- olutions per minute for the breaker and L450 revolutions per minute for the finisher, a 12 to 13 ounce lap be- ing made at the finisher picker. 18 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. The card should have closer settings than for the cloth described last week. Spocial attention should be given to the setting of the back plate to the licker-in. If this plate is set too close the cotton will be broken and if set too far away will cause bunches tO' come through. It is always just as well, when setting a card for new length of stock or changing over, to sample the cotton, both before it enters the card and after it leaves it, to compare the two staples and to see if they are of the same length. A good weight per yard for sliver at the card for this class of goods is 50 grains. On the former grades of thie goods under de- scriotion THE COTTON IS COMBED. This, of course, meams extra expense because of the extra machines used, but it also makes the yarn evener be- cause at the comber all the short fibres are taken out, leaving all the fibres of the same length. When combers are used only two processes of drawing are rega.rded, but when the combers are not used for this class of goods then three processes of drawing are used. For this class of goods only 15 per cent waste should be taken out at the comber. At the speeders or fly frames the drawing sliver is put through the slub- ber, 1st intermediate, 2d intermediate and fine frames, the finished hank rov- ing ranging from 8 to 12 hank. In the samples under description the hank used would be about 12. Watch the settings of the rolls at the fiy frames and see that all your frames are set alike. These settings sihould be looked after all the time and should lapping or bunching occur it is a pretty good in- dioa'tion that something is wrong with your roll settings. If many frames are being run on the same stock. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT to have all the change gears the same, especially the draft gear. It some- times happens that the wrong draft gear will be put on one frame and the result is that the yarn is delivered to the ring spinning room or mule room uneven. It will also cause a great deal of trouble in sizing the yarns. This trouble is greater if the wrong gear is put on one of the 2d intermediate frames because the draft gear on these machines is seldom changed and you might not look here for the trouble for a long time and until considerable annoyance had been caused. Dyeing Particulars. The colors in the fabric illustrated are dyed in the yarn. The dyeing par- ticulars are as folloiws: LIGHT TAN. For 100 pounds yarn: 12 ounces im- medial yellow D pat.; 2 ounces imme- dial olive B, pat.; 7 ounces immediai cutch G, pat; 5 pounds sodium sul- phide; 10 pounds cryst. Glauber's salt; 3 pounds soda ash. Enter yarn at boil and boil one hour. Wash well with two or three waters. ECRU. For 100 pounds yarn: 6 ounces im- mediai yellow D, pat.; 1 ounce imme- diai olive B, pat.; 4 ounces immediai cutch G, pat.; 5 pounds sodium sul- phide; 10 pounds cryst. Glauber's salt; 3 pounds soda ash. Enter yarn at boil. Boiil one hour. Wasih well with two or three clean waters. LIGHT BROWN. For 100 pounds yarn: 8 ounces im- mediai brown B, pat.; 1 pound 4 ounces immediai cutch O, pat.; 5 pounds so- dium sulphide; 10 pounds cryst. Glau- ber's salt; 3 pounds soda ash. Enter yarn at boil, and boil one hour. Wash well with two or three waters. OLD GOLD. For 100 pounds yarn: 2 per cent im- mediai yellow D, pat.; 6 per cent so- dium sulphide; 12 per cent cryst. Glau- ber's salt; 3 per cent soda asih. Enter yarn at Ijodl. Boil one hour. Wash well with two or three waters. PINK. For 100 pounds yarn: 6 ounces dia- mine rose G D, pat.; 2 pounds sal soda; 25 pounds Glauber's salt. Enter at boil. Boil one hour. Wash well in water. NEW BLUE. For 100 pounds yam: 3 per cent im- mediai sky blue powdered cone; 5 per cent sodium sulphide; 10 per cent cryst. Glauber's salt; 3 per cent so'da ash. After treated with ^^ per cent biohrome potash; ^^ per cent blue- stone. Wash well with water. LIGHT BLUE. For 100 pounds yarn: 1^4 per cent immediai indoue B, pat.; l^^ per cent immediai sky blue powdered cone; 5 pounds sodium sulpihide; 10 pounds cryst. Glauber's salt; 3 pounds soda ash. Enter at 'boil. Boil one hour. Wash well with water. DARK BLUE. For 100 poninds yarn: 5 pounds im- mediai indone blue, 3 B, pat.; 10 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. ^ 19 pounds sodium sulphide; 15 pounds cryst. Glauber's salt; 5 pounds soda asih. Enter at boil. Boil one hour. Wash well with water. ORANGE. For 100 pounds yarn: 5 pounds im- medial orange C, pat.; 8 pounds so- dium sulphide; 15 pounds cryst. Glau- ber's saJt; 5 pounds soda ash. Enter at boil. Boil one hour. Wasih well in two or three waters. BLACK. For 100 pounds yarn, 1st bath: 20 pounds immedial black N N cone; 12 pounds sodium sulphide; 20 pounds cryst. Glatvbeir's salt; 5 pounds soda ash. 2d bath: 10 pounds immedial black N N cone; 8 pounds sodium sulphide; 15 pounds cryst. Glauber's salt; 4 pounds soda ash. Enter at boil. Boil one hour. Wash well in two or three cleam waters. The Finishing. In the finishing process use: 4 to 8 ounces cornstarch, 4 to 8 ounces co- coanut oil, white softening, 1 gallon water. Mix cold, boil half an hour. Starch through mangle. Run over drying cylinders. Sprinkle, and cal- ender through light calender. After starching, the goods are sometimes dried over the tenter frame to keep the pattern straight across the piece. CRINOLINE, Crinoline is a fabric composed of cotton warp, horsehair filling or al! cotton yarns. It is sold in varying widths, and is used by tailors and dressmakers in stiffening clothing. It is a cheap cloth of low texture and simple construction, THE DISTINGUISHING FEATURE, being the stiff finish with either a dull or highly glazed face on the cloth. Crinoline, having a horsehair fill- ing, requires a loom of special con- struction to handle the hair, a.<» it is hung in a neat bundle on the end of the loom, the hair being of a uniform length and color, generally black; the mechanism on the loom drawing a strand of hair from the bunch and placing it in the shed formed by the harness. A herring-bone twill weave is used in this grade of the cloth. Practically THE SAME EFFECT can be produced by using a glazed warp thread and a cotton filling. The glazing process is to take the cotton warp thread, and after charging heavily with a solution of sizing, the yarns are run through su- per-heated cylinders and rollers, the Crinoline. effect being a highly polished ^urfacfl" to the yarn. Crinoline composed of regular cot- ton yams is stiffened by weighting the fabric with sizing; the weight of the size, in some cases, equals 20 per cent of that of the yarns used in con- struction. Crinoline is made generally on the roller or cam loom of l-20s to l-26s cotton warp and filling yarn, using 25 to 40 ends and picks per inch, the cloth losing about 10 per cent of its. width from loom to finished width. The warps are sized 6 to 10 per cent and the woven cloth made to absorb 15 to 20 per cent of its weight, during sizing operation. TO FINISH CRINOLINE means to stiffen it. The cloth ii». auc -auau ■aaGBDBC QHLjBGBDB mamamamu DBGBaaGB ■naGBDaa aanaaaaa aaaaaDBG □nnannna □□aGDoaa naacnaaa BDDDaDDa :G:3aaaaDDaaa J aaanaaaaaa DBaaDDDBaDDa ■ BBDiJaaaBDDD ■BDDDBBBDBOD laODBBBaDBBD DGnnnBODDBDn Dcnra : c ! m:i DDDBf ;■"!"« ir.'i - B GDBr -': m _ i GBDDl '[JiBGI ■'/) BGGDUUBUDUUG Tw« fl«i>riitn BGCCCBDCCD DBUJCCBCGO DGDQBDQDGB GGBaGODBGD ncDGBaacnn / DOGBGaDLBC DDBGDaGBDO GBGDacBcan BGCGnBQGDG Xo. 1. No. 2. No. 3. 1. Crinoline. Plain Weave. 2. Crinoline. Herring-bone Weave. 3. Haircloth; 5 harness satin filling ef- fect. therefore taken direct from the loont. to the size tubs, and after this opera- tion 'it is run through the cylinders to dry it, after which the glaze finish is produced by the action of the heat- 20 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. ed rollers in the calender machine. The cloth is then rolled or lapped, to whatever size bolt desired, Uje^/bolt- ed pressed in plate press, aad , the crinoline is ready for the packing cases. Crinoline is usually made In eiiher solid black or cotton in the gray. CRINOLINE. Plain weave; reed 700; 1 end per split; 27 V^ inches reed; l-26s cotton warp and filling; 36 picks; 20 per cent size in finish. Color, black; weight, 1.9 ounces; 10 square inches, weight 15.1 grains, :fiaished weight; 16 square inches, weight 12.1 grains after sizing is re- jnoved. Horsehair is used in manufactur- jng haircloth, a fabric used for fur- niture covering, the weave being a iilling effect satin (generally about :five harness), to throw hair on the face of the cloth. These satin weaves permit of about 15 per cent more ends and picks than are used in an ordinary weave. This is due to the long floats in either warp or filling effect satins. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Although the yarns used to make crinoline are what are called coarse yarns it must not be thought that they may be neglected in any way in the carding and spinning, because coarse yarns should not be thrown to- gether any more than the finer counts of yarns. We should not turn our at- tention from the carding and spinning of coarse yarns and let them be run through the different machines until the required count is made, but we should give special attention to the production end of these yams as it is here we can make the best showing. In coarse counts of yarns it should be our aim to get as large a production from each machine as possible and NOT OVERLOAD THE MACHINE, and at the same time produce as good a finished yarn as possible. Another thing, when making coarse counts of yarn we are not required to take out as large a percentage of waste as when we are making the firmer counts, and while enough waste should be taken out so that the yarn will not be bunchy, still it will be at once seen that the settings will not be as "close" as when the firmer counts of yarn are being made. A low-grade, short-staple class of cotton is generally used for making the class of goods under description. Sometimes this is used straight but some mills use waste from the comber in the mixing as well as the low-grade cotton. Generally TWO PROCESSES of picking and opening are used, the speed of the beater being around 1,500 revolutions per minute, the beats per inch being between 42 and 45. The beater is run at a higher speed on short stapled cotton for two reasons: first, because it is necessary to run it at a higher rate of speed in order to get all the dirt out; and second, be- cause it can be run at a higher speed because there is not so much liability of making neps, for the reason that the staple is short and does not ball up as easily as the long-staple cot- tons. The weight of the whole lap at the finisher picker is about 40 pounds, or about 141/^ ounces to the yard in length. THE CARDS are set so that the tops are about 12- 1000 of an inch away from the cylin- der wire (coarse wire being used on both cylinder and doffer fillets). The licker-in knives are set as close as possible witnout touching so that they may throw out as much dirt as pos- sible. The draft of this machine should be about 100, the production from 750 to 1000 pounds for this class of goods and the weight of sliver per yard at the front about 65 grains per yard. The ones in charge of the cards should see that the cards are properly ground because when running large productions of low-grade cotton the wire on the fillet becomes dull and does not perform its duty. TWO PROCESSES OF DRAWING are used, generally 6 ends up. As the weight per yard of sliver is heavy at the drawing frame for this class of goods, a point to look out for is to see that the weights attached to the top rolls are sufficient to hold them down so that they will not jump. The weight of the sliver at the point of the finisher drawing should be about 75 grains and the speed of the front roll about 400 revolutions per minute; the hank roving at the slubbers about .40; at the first intermediate fly frame 1.40 and at the second inter- mediate 3.75 to 4.25 hank. From the second intermediate frame the roving goes to the spinning frame, where it is spun into the required yarn, or from A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 21 20s to 26s, being used for this class of goods, i.e., crinolines. Dyeing Particulars. Crinoline linings are generally dyed with a cheap logwood black. Make up a solution of logwood ex- tract at 6 degrees Tw. Add common wood acid, 6 degrees Tw., 1 pint acid, 1 gallon logwood, 6 degrees Tw. Run through two-box machine, pieces run- ning into liquor 8 to 10 times, and through nip of two rubber rollers, liquor at the boil. Dry on cylinder drying machine, and run through chrome bath at l^ pound bichromate soda to 1 gallon water, and run through a steaming box to develop the color. Wash well in water. Starch, % pound dextrin, 1 gallon water. Boil the starch up for one hour before starching. Dry on cylinders or on tenter frames, as required. Some crinoline linings are calendered in friction calender, and afterwards em- bossed on embossing machine with a slash pattern. Some crinoline linings are starched by hand in the tub, and stretched on a s tenter frame and dried on the frame. DAMASK FABRICS. The name danaask is technically ap- plied to certain classes of fabrics, rich- ly decorated with figures of foliage, fruits, scrolls and other ornamental patterns, usually of a large and elabo- rate character. The weaves usually employed are twillsC mos'tly satin) and the figures In the fabric are made by alternately exchanging warp for weft surface or vice versa. The materials employed vary accord- ing to the purpose to which the fabrics are to be applied. In the manufacture of upholstery oloth for hangings and furniture covering, silk or worsted is used, while for tablecovers, towels, nap- kins, etc., linen is generally employed, except in the cheapest grades, when cotton is the material used. The name was derived from the city of Damascus, when that city was a centre for the production of textile fab- rics, and originally was applied only to silken fabrics, whose designs were very elaborately woven in colors and often with gold thread. About the twelfth century the above- mentioned city, even then long cele- brated for the production of its looms, so far outstripped all other places for beauty of design, that her silken tex- tiles were in demand everywhere, and thus, as often happens, traders fastened the name of Damascen or Damask upon every silken fabric richly wrought and curiously designed, no matter whether it came or not from Damascus. In order to explain the modus oper- andi for the production of damask in this country, suppose we place our- selves in the position of a public de- signer, whose specialty is the designing of patterns for such fabrics. THE SKETCH. The first step in the operation is to prepare a dozen or more sketches, which are to be shown to manufactur- ers to take their choice. A specimen of such is illustrated at Fig. 1 (reduced), the original of which is drawn on ordi- nary tracing paper, the exact size, as it will appear in the cloth. This design or sketch is to be made into a damask tablecover, having 50 threads warp and 44 picks weft per inch, the figure of which is to be a 5- leaf 4 — 1 satin twill (warp face) and the ground a 5-leaf 1 — 4 satin twill (weft face) . PROPER DESIGN PAPER. The next step to be taken is to se- lect the proper designing paper, the size of which, that is, the number of rectang- les, warp and weft, in each large square, must be in the exact proportion to the number of threads (warp) and picks (weft) in one inch of the finished cloth. The mode of figuring is after the fol- lowing manner: Paper for warp ruled eight rectangles per large square; paper for weft ruled in the same ratio to eight as 44 is to 50. Operation: x : 8 : : 44 : 50; there- fore 44x8 equals 352 divided by 50 equals 7.04, answer. 7.04 is near enough to call it 7; therefore, 8x7 is the proper size of design paper required. TIE-UP. Then the tie-up must be considered, which in the present instance will be a eOO-hook, with the tie-up as illus- trated at Fig. 2 French system — point for border, and straight throngh for body, in six divisions. The next process is to enlarge the de- sign as it appears in the sketch, so that one repeat will exactly fit on 600 rec- tangles (warp) of the designing paper selected. That portion of the border shown at A, in conformity with the tie-up should occupy the first 15 squares or 120 rec- tangles; that shown at B the next 15 squares or 120 rectangles; that por- A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. tion shown at C is not required on the design paper, because it is a repetition of that part shown at A, but simply re- versed. For the body of the design shown at D, 45 squares or 360 rectangles will be thraads in one repeat of weave (satin) will not divide into 308 evenly, 310 must be taken (310 divided by 5 equals 62). Therefore the design will occupy 600 rectangles (warp) times 310 rec- tangles (weft). I Portion A = 15 sq. X 8 = 120 rectangles > „ ^ Portinn R - ,5 =„ X 8 = 120 rectanlles l^ord ^Body. required, which will complete the 600 hooks of the machine. Summing them up they will be as follows: Portion A = 15 sq. Portion B = 15 sq. Portion D = 45 sq. X 8 = 360 rectangles 600 rectangles ^ In order to ascertain how many squares or rectangles the design will occupy weft-wise the sketch must be measured, which in this case happens to be seven inches. Therefore 44 picks per inch times 7 inches equals 308 rectangles; but as 5, the number of PAINTING IN THE DESIGN.^ "^ After the design is transferred to the design paper, the next process is to paint in the weave, in the following manner, or as shown by a portion of the design, taken from sketch at E, and illustrated by Fig. 3. 1. Paint in the figure in solid red (Vermillion or scarlet lake), keeping well within the lines. 2. Paint in the 1 — 4 satin twill in the ground, running the twill toward the right. 3. Paint in the 4—1 satin twill in the 24 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. figure by using black paiint over the red. Twill to the left. Tn joining the ground and figure twills great care must be exercised so as to effect a clear outline between figure and ground, which is done by the following method: Where it is possible to bring a riser Cblack) of the ground beside a sinker Cwhite) in the figure weave or vice versa, it must be done and in some cases, where the risers and sinkers will not join, it is well to alter the weaves slightly so as to effect it; and where it is impossible to do this, then the weaves of each must not be extended border join perfectly with that of the body; and this is done by carefully ex- aimining the tie-up so as to ascertain which warp threads will join each other in the cloth and take steps to make a perfect juncture. In this particular instance, warp thread No. 1, which is the first of the border, is in juxtaposition with warp thread No. 241, which is the first of the body. (See Tie-up, Fig. 2.) There- fore the satin twill of the body, com- mencing with 'warp thread No. 241, should continue, without a break, the satin twill of the border finished at warp thread No. 1. naBnnaaiDDDDBnnDDBDnnaBDDnDBnacGBDccDBaDCCBCD ■lGZ:aailJuaD«aaanBDDDDBDnQDBDaLjDBDL.DDBDDCLaGClJ □GaBJaGaaaDanBJL.LJLBDULi:;BDCLG*DGCjLB[lDLLBLCLLlD BuajaBGGnGBGaDaBDGDDBaGuCBDDDnBDCGDBaCDCBCLLD aumaaa^m3i'.aamLjauam cgdbddddbgcdcblillcbcccculu aJGaBaaGaBacaaBGGGCB--CCCBCaGGBGCG»BGGCCBCLLCr BGaGaBGGaaBGGGGBGGGGBaaGGBaaCCCBGBaBCCCLBCCGD GaBGGGaBGGaaBaGaaBaCGGBGGaDGGBBBBBGGCBCGCGBDD DaaGBJGajBGGGaaGGaaBaaaDBQGBBBBBBCBCGGGlCCCCB DBGJJGBG JGGBGGGGBuaaGBGi CBBBBBBCBBCCBCCCCBCCD UGGBGGUGBGGGGBGGGGBGGDBBBBBBBDBBBBr.CCCBCCGCBD BGGjaBGGJGBGa^DBGaaaGBBBBBBDBBBBBLCBGGCCBCCCa D^BGGJJBGGGGBG .GGaaBBBBBBDBBGBCBBCCLCBL GCC BLD DGGGBGGGaBGGjaBGaaBBBBBQBBBDBfcBBBDlGGCCBCCGCB CBGGGG«Gj .GBGaaaBBBBBDBBBBDBBBfcCCCCLBCGCCBCCa DG.BJGGGBGGJBBBBBBBGBBBBOaBBBGBBDBCGGCBCCCGkO BGGGGBGGGBBBGBBBBGBBBBBGCBBGBBBBLLCBCGCCBQCCa aGBGGG«BBBGBBBBGBBBBGBCGBBBBBIBCBCGGLBGCCLBCD aGGGBBBBGBBBBGBBBBGBBGGBBBBBCBBCCCBGLGCBtrCGLB aGGflflBJBaBBQBBBBGBBBDGBBBBCBIBGBCCLCICCLCaCCD GBBBGBBBBGBBBBGBBBBGGBBBGBBBBICLCBCGGCBirCCCBD BBGBBBBGBBBBGBBBBGaGBBDBBBBLaCBGGCCBCCLCBCCGG GBBBBGaBBBGBBBBBGGGBBBBBBGBBaCGCBGGDCBCGLCICD BBBGBBBBi IBBBBBBGGGBBBBBaBBBBGBCDCCBGCGGBCC C C B BGBBBBGBBBBBBGGGBBBBBGBBBIBGCrCBrCCC BGCGCBCCG BaaBGBaBBBBGGGBBflBBGBBBBBBGCBCCCCICCDCBGCCCBG BaGBBBBGaaJGaaBaaCBBBBCBBGCCCClCCCCBCCGLBC CLD naBBaaaaGGaaaBaaBBBBaBBBOcrBCGQCBCGGGBGCcciic d BBaGBaBaaGBBaGBBBaGBBBGCBCGCClQCCCBCCCOCCCCB BGBBBGGGBBBGBBBBGBBBBOGGL.CBCCCCBQCLCBCCGCIC CD BBBBGGGaBGBBBBaBaBBBBGaBCCCCKCCCr>i:CLCBCC'CClD BBGGGBBaBBBBaBBBBGBBCaaCCBCCt CBCCCC BCGCCBCCGG BGgGaBBBaBGBBBBGBBBBGGaCGOCacCCCBCCCCBrCCGBLn gGGBBBBBGBBBBaBBBBBaaGGGBCrCCBircGCBCCC CBCCCC B gGBBHBGBBBBGBBBBGBBGGBGGCGBGCCCBCCC CBCC C : BC CD DBBBGBBBBaBBBBnBBBGGGD' BGrDCBCCCCBC CCCBCCCCBC ■B JBBBBaBBBBaBBBBGaaBnGGCBCDDCBCCCrBCCCCBCCDG GBBBBGBBBBGBBBBBGBD CGBGCGGBCCCCBCCCr BCCCCBCD BBBGBBBBaBBBBBBGaDGBrCGGBGCCCBCCCCBCCCCBCCCCB BGBBBBaBBBBaBBGGBGGGCBGnGGBnGCCBCCCCBCCCCBI.Ca BBBBGBBBBaBBBGGGGGBGDnCBCCCCBCCrCBCCCCBCCCCBD BBaBBBBaBBBaOGGB GGnBGDGCBCGC CBCCCCBCCCCBCCCD DBBBBaBBBBDaBGGGGBannDBaDGCBrCCCBCCCCBCCCCBCD ■BBGBBBBGanaanBGGaaBDDnnBaGDCBCCGCBGDCCBCCCr B BGBBBnBGDGaBnaGGBnGa-BaDaGBGCDGBCCCCBCCCCBCCG BBBBBnGGBnGGGBGaGnBaGnGBn^GCBGCCCBCCCCBCCC C BG ■BBnGBGnGGBmOaBDnGG-DanCBCGCGBCCCCBCCCCBCCCG BganDGGBGnaGBGaGGBaGGGBCCrCBCCCCBCCCCBCCCCBrG ganaBaGDaBaaGDBD^GaBGGaQBGGCGBGcccBcrccBCcccB DBGGaaBGnDGBaDGOBnnOGBG^aGBGGGDPDGarBCCCCBCCO DGnBaGaaBDaaDBaDDnEnnDOBanDnBGDnGBGcccB! cccbd ■DDGaBnaaaBaDaDBaDDDBnDGDBDGDaBnCQnBCCDDBDDDD Fig. 3. so as to actually join, bu/t a certain length of weft in the ground must join a certain length of warp in the figure. (See portion of design, Fig. 3.) When painting in the satin twill of the ground in the border of the design it is necessary ihat the twill should ex- tend to the right for one-half the dis- tance and to the left for the remainder, therefore, as this breaking of the twill line causes a slight imperfection, which is unavoidahle, care must be used so as to make the break in such portion of the border as will render it unno- ticeable. Again it is necessary also to be care- ful so as to make the weave of the WEA\^S TO USE. Athough in the majority of damask fabrics nothing but satin twill weaves are employed (principally 5 and 8 har- ness), very good effects are sometimes oibuined by combining other weaves with the satin twills. For instance, one side of a leaf may be painted in with a satin twill weave, and the other side may be a straight twill, thus giv- ing the leaf a shaded effect, which may be very pleasing. Another method of shading and the one generally employed is to gradually change from warp-np to weft-up or vice versa, as illustrated by Fig. 4. A CX)TTOX FABRICS GLOSSARY. 25 TWO METHODS OF MAKING DAMASK. In damask there is probably a great- er field far the production of large fig- ures than in anj^ other class of weav- ing. There are two methods of weav- ing damask. First, by the use of the or- dinary jacquard, which is discussed in the present article, and second, by the use of what is called the compound pres- sure harness. By the first method, although very elaborate figures can be woven and a fine cloth produced, yet by the second method a command is obtained over four or five times as many warp threads as by the first,thus allowing the production of a fabric of much finer texture and even more elaborate ornamentation. A description of damask weaving by It is on account of the excellence of her bleacheries that Ireland has been able 'to make Irish linen famous the world, over. DBaaDDBaznCBGCDDBDDDnBDn □ Ljy»Zu.Z_BL.^„^«a^LZBZZ_'a« ■□^--■_i:^^M_-_: ■_n_u^:.a DCB^^__«zz^z|B .^r^l^Sa o«ljb^^i«^^_z«_, ^BZ^_z»Lja ■□CB^BgjB^zzz»(ZZ^jBZr_b« BDBJjB^B.^ZB_l.^ *:_[ .r BlioQ DaBnBuL.'BLjB J^BZCU^BZZL" BD naajB -bjCjb jB^cB^^ZLBZiIca GB-BZZBJBJGBZK^^BZZZLlfc^a ■ jnBZBLjZBGB^_B~BZLB^br^B ■ GBJJBZBZUB-.BZC:B_B:_L:B'=£a □ BBZBGJBJBZZBZkZZBGBZCBLJ CBGBBJBDGBGBl.CBCBLZBZB^a JBBGBLICB^BZ ■□BBgiGBagBZGBCBZCBCBLCi B.B ^BBGBGBBGBDL_„_^^_^_^ GBBGBGBBGBGBBlBUDBCBGCBG am jbbgbcbbdhgbb^b, .cbgbcg BBGHGBBGBaBB^BCBBCBCCBGB ■ GBBGBDBBGBGBBuBGBai_BGGM ■GBGBBGBGBBGBGBBCBGBBGBD ■BBGBGBBGBGBBQBGBBGBGBBa GBBBBGBGBaaflGBBLBCBBGBGII ■BJBBBBGBuBBGBGBBGBGBB^B BBBBGBBBB :BGBBCBGBBGBGbS ■GBBBBGBBBBGBGBBGBGBBQBG ■BBGBBBBGBBBBGBCBBGBGBBG 5!!!!^!!'H^"""BCBGBBuBCB ■■GBBBBGBBBBGBBBBGBGBBGB ■BBBGBBBBGBBBBGBBBBGBCBB BGBBBBGBBBBGBBBBGBBBBGBa ■■■^■■■BGaBBBGaBBB_BBBBa aaGaBaBBBBGBBBBuaaBBcaaa Fig. 4. the use of the compound pressure har- ness will be given later. Where damaslcs are made all of one color, which is generally the case, as in white linen tablecovers, the effect is given by the threads lying at right angles to each other, and the light fall- ing upon them brings the pattern in bold relief and makes it easily visible. FINISHING OF CLOTH. As it is impossible in the scope of the present article to describe the bleaching, dyeing and finishing of all the various damask fabrics, we can at least say this — that in the case of the linen tablecovers, towels, etc., all the finishing required is bleaching, starch- ing and pressing. But as the beauty of the fabric large- ly depends upon its whiteness, it is es- sential that the bleaching of the cloth must be very carefully done. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Cotton damask is made in several grades and should be considered as be- ing made in mills equipped with ma- chinen^ for making medium and high- class goods. The grades of cotton used for this class of cloth are middling to good middling, the staple varying from IVi to 1% inches strong, according to the grade of damask to be made. THE MIXING should be as large as possible and, if good waste is used, i. e., sliver waste from the front of the cards, and draw- ings, also sliver waste from sliver lap machines and combers, and cut roving waste from the slubber and fiy frames, it should not be used in larger propor- tions than 1 to 3. In up-to-date mills and in fact most mills nowadays it is the general custom to have a waste machine into which the cut waste from the slubber and fiy frames is picked. This is called A WASTE MACHINE. This machine is constructed so as to take out all the twist in the roving an3 generally has for this purpose two or three irorcupine beaters, and the cut roving waste is delivered in a fiuffy sheet, from which all the twist has been taken. The good sliver waste from the machines above mentioned is mixed with the raw stock, while the cut rov- ing waste, after being run through the waste machine, is fed to a picker and made into a lap of the same weight as the lap being used at the finisher pick- er, for this class of goods, and then THE WASTE LAP is run through with the raw stock lap at the finisher picker in the proportion of three laps of raw stock to one of cut- waste, the cut waste being generally put so that it will come in the centre of the delivered lap. The cotton, after being mixed, is put through a hopper opener and either two or three processes of pickers, two processes being best, the speed of beater being lO.oO revolutions per min- ute for openers, 1,500 for breakers and 1,450 for finishers, also 1,450 revolutions per minute for intermediate pickers, when used. This gives about 42 beats per inch at the finisher. The weight of lap!; should be 40 pounds at breaker, '67 pounds at intermediate and ;16 pounds at finisher. "26 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. THE CARDS shouM be set close, the speed of the flats making incomplete revolutions ': ■BaoBBna « DDBBoaka ^ QBBaDBBa •& DfflDDDDna .2? BBODBBaa Hi anBBDOBa a ■DOBBODB S, mnoaaann a> BBQaaann n oaanaaaa DnsnDDDn □DBBGDaa naDDDDDa aDDBBGOa Donnfflnnn aaaaaaao DBBDaaBD DDDDDDBD Daaaanaa BaDBBaDB SnaDDDDG BBnOBBOD DBBCDBBD oosnaDDD DDBBGDBB OODDDOnffl BnnBBDnB BB^OBBGD psDnnnon DBBonapn CDDDDDfPn caaaaaaa DannDDaannDDnnDa uoanauLJuDDLiLJDBDLj uuuDUBuauDuuDnuu UDuDGu^DuDUL^aDDu UUUDB-DUDljljudodlI LDunuGGDDDUBDDau DLjunuauauQLjLjDnuu uDuauuQuanULiGauu nuuDLjUBaDDi^LjaLinLi uaanauDuDD'-ji-inDBu GULJDUuuBDCL^L-DDDU UDDnuuu^UDLJLJDnDB DB^DLjuanDai-^Lj dcu aaanuuDaoBLJunnnu aauD-uQuDDi-iuaDDU DDana'^acDBULjDDDU nDGDuUDBQcuuDOaU DUDQLJLjDDGnuBDDny DQuniJUDBGnLJi-DDU^ DQ^OLJuauDnLJUDLaa DBDD^UaGDiJuUQDDLJ DDaDuuGaoauL.aDaa DBanQLJaGijaGLjnDDa nna^^LiMDnDHDGaana aaaoGOGDGnL^LjQQna aaQnaGL^DaDGBDDD'^ DGGD-CJaana ugddd I CQnaaauDGBUnaDa ananLjQQLjaaGLjnnDH GGanaGGDBnGGaaaG □aanuGGDGGGUGDaa DDaanuGGGHQGnaau aDDDaaGaDGQL-aanS naDnDDDDGGGL-'GnaH • DaGGDuGBGQGLiGnnCl £ aaGDDGGuGDai-annB =3 DOGnaBGaaaGHGQDH A naGaQGnQDDUCJGBDD Q aaGDDaauGGG^aaaD a QaGn-jGGQGGDi-^aBGL: y aGGaaanaarGLJGanQ so DaanaanGQDGLJGuo" a nnanGnaaanaLJGDnci -g QaanaaQD_inL.L.nDBQ g GGGnanBDaaGQanDD g ananaaaGnr'GLJGBag n aaanGGGuQr-GLia'-'G" BGDnDGGQ^nGUDDna aaDnGaGaBGQUGDDa DBGnGGaaQnaaGDDD DDD'^aaGDDBaLaaaa □DBGDGnDD- GSoona naG^QDanDDBQcnDa DaDwaDanGnGDoaaa nnonacaDDnGBr^aDn naanBGaucDGLaDDa nnanaanncnGDBOaa DGnnQBGOnnQ QGaa naa^GDnnnnGnaBna GGDnaDBDnr-DDnDaa n -'D'^aaaaGnDCiGnBD nnnnGDnBCpQ dddd Qna-nGaDQncpDOaB BnGnnGGOGGGDaDaa DDG^GDn^BnGDaaaa PBG'^nnnnnnGDaDnn oGG'^DanaDBnDDDDn GGBnGGGGaragGGGa nGO^naaaanBgDGr n nnG-nnnGGnDDraDa GGGnnnaaQraBaDDa naG-BG"'aDnaDaaaa noa-^nnGGGnGGBGDa nOTj'-iGBGaGnGGGaaa GGG-'anGna'-nnnBGa G -nnGQBnr l-^nGGGGQ nno'-innaan"'- gggbq pn^^^GoaBmr ggggd GGGranDGanaDaaDB BG BG GB GB BG BG BG ID £ ID OS Cotton woi'Sted mens wear is usually woven on a Crompton & Knowles, Mutual or Ff'lrmount loom, having either 4x1 or 4x4 filling boxes, and having a head motion attached such as the Crompton & Knowles, Mason, Ingraham, Stafford or Oldham, of from 16 to 2^ harness ca- pacity. Most all weave effects and combinations of weaves known in the worsted men's wear trade can be ap- plied to this fabric. Care should be taken, however, in construction of weave, as the weave, when used in a •worsted to produce a tightly bound rib effect, may appear more open in ootton worsted men's wear as the worsted fabric shrinks when scoured in finish and the cotton fabric is finished dry and is practically the same as when taken from loom, of course allowing for percentage of contraction between reed and cloth roll. Cotton Worsted men's wear is usually made one face end and one back end, and reeded four ends per dent. THE FACE WEAVE when a twill, or fancy combination, is balanced on the back of the cloth by using an eight harness satin (warp effect on back) five as counter. The face weave should always be properly balanced. In maldng this style of goods, or a warp back fabric, the extra is placed there for the purpose of adding weight to the cloth, and if of a tighter nature, the face of the cloth will present a puckered or uneven appearance. To dry finish cotton worsted men's wear, the yarns of which have been dyed from dry or cheap colors, that will not stand washing, the goods are taken from the loom and inspected, measured and sheared. Shearing is a process which means running the cloth through a ma- chine, having a cutter composed of a series of blades set in a frame, which revolves in similar manner to that of a grass mower, the cloth being kept taut by being passed over and under several rods and rollers, which also re- move wrinkles, and allow the cloth to be presented evenly to the cutter. The purpose of shearing is to remove all foreign substances from the face of the cloth, such as knots, lumps, etc., and the effect is a smooth, even cloth that readily takes on the appearance of a high-class worsted, after being run through the hot press. The steam gauge on a hot press should register 50 pounds and the dial 13.5 pounds roller pressure when the cloth is run through this press. The effect of the pressure of the steam- heated rollers upon the cloth is to re- move all wrinkles, liven up the colors, and to retain the width of cloth as taken from the cloth roll at the loom. After being pressed, the cuts of cloth are rolled or sapped into bolts, the 38 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. ir. ends of which are then stitched, the tags sewed on and the goods are ready to case and ship, THE COLORS used in cotton worsted men's wear are black, brown, light and dark shades of blue, slate, drab and steel, and to liv- en up a pattern use an occasional end of maroon, green, pearl or sky blue. This line is also made in a piece-dye fabric, constructed from 2-20 and 2-30 cotton warps, and l-30s worsted and 1-20 cotton filling. These yarns are woven in the gray and the cloth scoured and dyed in the piece, black or blue. When finished, this fabric re- sembles a very heavy serge. Finish, 28 inches. ounces; 31^^ inches in reed, including selvage 32x2; 2-20 cotton warp one face, one back: 52 picks, 2-26s black cotton filling. Dry finish equals shear and hot press. Weave, can use same as light weights. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Cotton worsted fabrics, like cotton- ade fabrics, are generally made and spun in the same manner as wool and worsted yarns and made in woolen mills. There are a few exceptions, how- ever, where they are made in cotton mills. The count of the yarn used In cotton worsted fabrics varies from 208 to 36s, and is generally a doubled yarn. In the present article we will proceed UD«>2* naacBTanBa ■a«noDan«-T Ba^Gca Damamaoa:iamsB3Da m^mnaaonmamanaon Desisn— I'iecc Dye rDBBnnBHonnnDnrJD DBBuoaaaaisaDDDna BBDOSCDD T DDSDCn BaGHB^GaaDGonoDffl DGBBaDBBans^naaDG ammcammaaaannmaa Weave Harness Chain Daanna-DaDDDDDDB DnnDDDGuDC DDDBnn □aannDDnnDDBaDDa DaaDDDnaaHDnanna DDDaanaBDnanDDDQ DnanDBa.jDDDonnDa DDDBDDDaDDDDDaag nBDDDDDDDDDDD^Cn DaanDnDaDDnDDDBg DDDDnDCnDDaDBGDa DDDaGanaanBaDDDg DGGaaaaaBQGGaQgG DOGGGGBGaaGggggg □aGGBaGGGGGgggDa LGB-i 'rinGGaGggg__^g BGGC2GG:iGGG-UGGa Drawins-in Draft DG " nan-rB'"''BBB»" BBBBfflBBaL:::z3_GDn Reel Plan Piece dye — worsted men's wear; reed, 500 — eight ends per dent; 33 inches in reed, including selvage, 32x2. 1 end face 2-30 cotton warp; 1 end back 2-20 cotton warp, ? — - twill face, 8 harness satin back. 5 as counter. 1 pick l-30s worsted; 1 pick 1-20 cot- ton; 56 picks per inch. LIGHT-WEIGHT MEN'S WEAR. Reed, 900 — four ends per dent, QVz ounces; Sl^^ inches in reed, including selvage 32x2; 2-30s cotton warp, one face and one back; 52 picks 2-30s black cotton filling. Dry finish equals shear and hot press. Weave twill combina- tions for face; weave eight-harness satin for back. HEAVY-WEIGHT MEN'S WEAR. Reed, 800 — four ends per dent, 8*^ nZTJSnBGGGGG^BBGGGGCBGBni GnDBnBDGnaaB^BDGGDGBCBn D-:il oiB JGGGGB JBGGrjGGB3!B ,■ .GGGBGGDBiBaGDGGBDBQGGG Bffl BaBGGG':aB-aBGUuaaBGBaa2D.jB-;-Bcnia""'iiCBi^GaDaBSBDaran HGGOGGBGB JJuGGBSBCGGLGB BCJLBJ_aD":Bf3BraDnDBaBDCa aGGGaaBaGGDaBDBaGGGaaEaBDU :''_UfaiBGQCGnBaHaGGGDBffiBG aanQBDnGna«*BGU n jBQasnarjGQa'JGCHjBGG-aaBaBGGaaLBG BfflBDaaGCBaBGGG GB ^BGOaGaaaBDm Ij'^PfiiM ^ ddgdbgbgcdgu BaDaDGB^HGnaGaBGBGaGnGBtoBGGL:BJ::CaaBDBaGDaDBt.KDGD Design— Light Weight— Stripe. namnnnaaaGnnaaBGGQ cnGGG-oG^rG - LaLtaGnDGGGCcnGn DGGaaDGaGaaDaBaGGGGGauGDanaG a _QDaQauaDnDGGDGDDa GGGGGaaaaGGBGaGaGauGGaGGaaanaaGijGaaGQacBDaaGaGaa GG GaGGGGBaa jaacaGDGGGaGGBGDDaGaGGQGDGDGGBaGQGLa aanaaGgBaDaaaciaGGa^aaGGBaaGaaacaDGaaGGGGoaaBGGDj DGaGGBClDGGGJGGGGGGaQGBGaDQQGGBQCaCDaGDaGGGDGDBQa aaJBaGGQGaGGaaGGaaGBQQGGGGG GGCBGGGDacaCQanGGQGM- nBGaGaGaaGGaGnGaGBDGaGGGGGGaQDGOGBaDaGGGGGGGGGLG DQaGGGnGGGGaDaBGGnGGGGaGGaaaGaGDGDGnBGGaGGGGaaDg naGDaGnDaaDGBGaraaGaGnQGGDDqDGQaggGDggBgg^gggi og DGaaaanGGGBnaGaaaa'jnDGGGGaBDGaa DaGDaaaGBDGGGaaa aaGGJGaGBGaaG iGGaaGaGaoDBQG^ GGaaaaDGaaGCGCBGGaga nGaGDaBGGGOGaaaDaGaaaGBGGGaaBDQGCGGGGGGGDGaaBDng QaaaB-iDaGDaaGGgaDnDQBaQnDaDnanBGDDaagGagGaaaggBg naBaGaGnGGnGaGaDDnBGDnnnaaaaaaaGBaaDaaaaaaggGQga BnGGnaGajDaDaDDGBDaGGGGaGGcnGaaaQaBanaDQaGaGGGca Drawing-in Draft. GGaDBBBBnannBBBBnnGGBBBBaaGGBBBBnnanBBBBnannBBBB BBBBGaGGBBBBGDDGBBBBGGGGBBBBGDaaBBBBGGGGBBBBGDGC Reed Plan. DDBBaDBBaDCGGnffln nBBi^GBBLJQii-aGGDGa BBGDBBGGaGGaSGDn BGGBBGL BDOGGGDGffl DGBBGaBBaGsaaaDa DBBGaBBGaDaDOfflDG BBGaBBGaSGCDCGCD BG_BBGGaG^ataGQaG Weave Harness Chain. as if the count of the finished yarn was to be 2-30S. A mill making this class of goods would belong to the second division of mills (as classified in a previous arti- cle) i.e., a mill equipped with machin- ery for making yarns from low to me- dium grades of cotton. THE MIXINGS would be made in the usual manner, being run through a bale breaker Into the mixing bin and at this point mixed with the sliver waste returned from the cards, drawing frames and combers (if there are any of these machines in the mill) and then it is run through an opener and through three processes of pickers. At the finisher picker laps of cut roving- waste are mixed with raw stock in the proportion of three laps of raw stock to one lap of cut-roving A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 39 waste. In using cut-roving waste and also sliver waste it should always be of the same length of staple. It is THE GENERAL PLAN to use cut-roving waste as fast as it is made and not allow it to collect until a large quantity is on hand. The method employed in most mills is to collect the cut-roving over a day (generally right after the noon hour) and take it to the picker room and run it through the I'oving or waste picker. From here it is run into a breaker picker and formed into laps of suitable weight. These are then mixed with the raw stock in the proportion above stated, as long as the cut-roving laps hold out (which should be as short a time as possible for obvious reasons). By doing this A MORE EVEN YARN is obtained than when the cut roving is allowed to collect for a week at a time before being put through the waste picker, because by the first plan you are mixing a small quantity of cut rov- ing a good part of the time, whereas by the latter plan cut roving is only mixed with the raw stock once a week, while during the other five days nothing but the raw stock and sliver waste is being mixed. By the latter plan a more un- even yarn is bound to be made. The SPEED OF THE BEATERS on the different machines should not exceed 1,050 revolutions per minute at the opener, 1,500 revolutions per min- ute at the breaker picker, and on the intermediate and finisher pickers the speed should be slowed down so as not to exceed 1,450 revolutions per minute. This will give 42 beats to every inch of cotton fed to the finisher picker, which ought to be enough to thorough- ly clean it. In giving the above speeds it is assumed that the rigid two-bladed type of beater is used. Different kinds of beaters, together with their advan- tages and disadvantages, will be given later when higher count yarns are de- scribed. The WEIGHT OF THE LAP at the breaker picker should be about 40 pounds or 16 ounces to the yard; at the intermediate about 37 pounds or 12 ounces per yard; at the finisher 39 pounds or 14i^ ounces per yard. The settings at the card should be the same as described in last week's article per weight of sliver being 60 grains per yard and the production 850 pounds per week of 60 hours. The work is run through three processes of drawing, revolutions per minute of front roll at each process being 400 and the weight of the sliver at the finisher drawing 70 grains per yard. In order to help pro- duce a perfect yarn, it is always a good rule never to draw more than you double at the drawing frame. For ex- ample, if you are feeding six ends at the drawing your draft should be six or under. The PRODUCTION OF THE SLIVER at the drawing frame should be about 1,600 pounds per delivery for a week of 60 hours. The next machine is the slubber, the hank roving at the front being about .40. The yarn is run through three proc- esses of fly frames and the hank rov- ing made at each should be as follows: First intermediate, 1.20; second inter- mediate, 3.00; fine frame, 7.25 to 7.50. The yarn is then taken to the spinning room and made into 30s yarn; from here it is taken to the twister and made into 2-30s by doubling two yarns of single 30s yams together. Dyeing Particulars. BLACK FOR YARN. 15 per cent immedial black N N; 12 per cent sodium sulphide; 5 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent Glauber's salt; enter at boil, boil one hour; wash well. DARK BROWN. 8 per cent immedial dark brown A; 1 per cent immedial yellow D; % per cent immedial black N B ; 10 per cent sodium sulphide; 5 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent Glauber's salt; enter at boil, boil one hour; wash well. DARK BLUE. 3 per cent immedial indone B cone; 3 per cent immedial indone R cone; 3 per cent immedial direct blue B; 8 per cent sodium sulphide; 5 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent Glauber's salt; enter at boil, boil one hour; wash well. PEARL. For 100 pounds yarn: 2 ounces imme- dial black N R T ; 8 ounces sodium sul- phide; one pound soda ash; 5 per cent Glauber's salt; enter at boil, boil one hour. DRAB. For 100 pounds yarn: 2 ounces imme- dial black N B; 12 ounces immedial cutch G; one pound sodium sulphide; 5 pounds Glauber's salt; enter at boil, boil one hour. SLATE. For 100 pounds yarn: 2 pounds imme- dial direct blue B; three-quarters of a pound imedial olive B; 5 pounds sodi- um sulphide; 10 pounds Glauber's salt; 40 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 2 pounds soda ash; enter at boil, boil one hour. STEEL. For 100 pounds yarn: 12 ounces imme- dial black N B ; 2 ounces immedial yel- low D; 2 pounds sodium sulphide; 2 pounds soda ash; .5 pounds Glauber's salt; enter at boil, boil one hour. GREEN. 5 per cent pyrogene yellow M; 5 per cent pyrogene green B; 10 per cent so- dium sulphide; 20 per cent Glauber's salt; 5 per cent soda ash; enter at boil, boil one hour; wash well. MAROON. 25 per cent Glauber's salt; 6 per cent Rosanthren C B ; 5 per cent soda ash; enter at boil, boil one hour; wash. Diazotize: ly^ pounds nitrate soda; four pounds hydrochloric acid; turn for 15 minutes; develop two pounds beta-naphthol; 2 pounds soda ash; turn for 15 minutes; wash well. SKY BLUE. 2 pounds immedial sky blue; two pounds sodium sulphide; 5 pounds so- da ash; 15 pounds Glauber's salt; enter at boil, boil one hour. FIGURED SILK (LENO) WAISTING. Figured waisting is a light-weight wash fabric, generally composed of 1-40 cotton warp and either single or two-ply silk or silkoline filling,! -60 silk and 2-60 mercerized or silkoline filling being in great favor for the past few years. This fabric can be woven on either the dobby or jacquard loom having single or double box motion. "Very ELABORATE AND POPULAR STYLES are created by using fancy granite weaves (filling effect) for ground, and for figuring use the filling effect of dia- mond, spot, crossed or curved twill weaves. These are so regularly ar- ranged as to produce apparent jac- quard patterns. Persian stripes can be produced by using bright colored extra warp threads and arranging the weave so as to raise them on the face of the cloth in Oriental or floral designs. Spots are sometimes woven into this fabric by using extra warp and clip- ping the long floats of yarn off the back of the cloth. Very elegant styles are made by in- troducing leno or doupe weaving by means of white and colored fancy yarns to produce open or lace work in the cloth. Figured waisting is made in both chambray and stripe pattern, always having white filling. For chambrays the following COLORS are serviceable: dark blue, light blue, brown, pink, red, pearl, steel, light green, tan, ecru, etc. The combination of cotton warp and silk or silkoline filling creates a silky sheen on the face of the fabric as the light strikes it, and this in itself is its most irnportant selling feature. IN WEAVING this fabric the take-up roller should be covered with fine sandpaper and this paper presents a more even surface to the cloth and does not draw the filling as is often the case where perforated tin is used as a covering on the take- up roller. The perforations usually cause small rough particles of tin to stick out prominently, and these catch on the long floats of the filling figure, and as the loom continues to run, the yarn clings to the roller and draws the filling, thereby spoiling the symmetry of the figure and causing imperfect cloth. The tin covering very often causes clouded or thick and thin places in the cloth. Especially is this so when us- ing a fine silk filling, and a great num- ber of picks per inch. To finish figured waisting the fabric is washed in a solution of soap and cold water, then dried by being run through the hot press. After the press of calender, the goods are folded on a folding machine (not lapped) in the same manner as sheeting, and after folding, each separate piece or cut is doubled in half and then wrapped in stiff paper, to keep out all dirt, after which it is ready to pack and ship. (SILK) FIGURED WAISTING. Reed, 1,300, 2 ends per dent; ,?8 inches in reed. to finish at 36 inches. 1,- 300 means 1,300 splits to 36 inches of reed. Warp l-40g cotton: filling l-60s silk filling, 64 picks. Take-up of warp during weaving, 15 per cent; 1 300 reed by 38 inches equals 1,372 splits; 2 ends to 1 split equals 2,744 ends plus 40 ends A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 41 for selvedge equals 2,784 total ends ia warp. WARP PATTERN. 16 White. 1 2 Light blue. 1 , ., 6 White. r^ "™^'- 2 Light blue. J 16 White. 8 Cadet blue. 2 Sky blue. 2 Cadet blue 2 Sky blue. 12 Dark blue. 2 Sky blue. 2 Cadet blue 2 Skv blue. 8 Cadet blue. 134 ends In pattern = 67 splits. 19 repeats of weave and pattern plus 40 splits or 80 ends. FIGURED (LENO) WAISTING. Reed, 1,400— ends per dent. 2; HV2 inches in reed, including selvage; fin- ish, 281/^. Scour and calender. WARP PATTERN. 88 Red 1-40 cot. 1 Black leno 2-20 mere. 4 White 2-40 cot. 2 White leno. 4 White. 2 White leno. 4 White. 2 White leno. 4 White. 1 Black leno. 112 ends = 68 splits. Weight one yard, 2,286 ounces. 1752 ends + 15% take up = 2061 yds. 1-40 cot = .981 ozs. 40 ends + 15% take up = 47 yds. 1-40 cot = .002 ozs. 304 ends -f 15% take up = 358 yds. 2-40 cot = .034 ozs. 38 ends black -|- 25% take up = 50 yds. 2-20 mere — .009 ozs. 114 ends white + 25% take up = 178 yds. 2-20 mere = .034 ozs. B6 picks X 34% in. = 1932 yds. 2-60 mere = 1. 221 ozs. Total 2.286 ozs. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Only mills having up-to-date ma- chineiT and also up-to-date ideas can hope to make figured silk leno. This class of goods requires a great deal firmer yarns than the other cloths that have been previously described, and these yarns are made in the third divi- sions of mills (as classified in a pre- vious article), i. e., mills making yarn from middle to high-grade cotton. The COUNTS OF YARNS, for this class of goods vary from 30s to 60s warp and from 40s to 80s (single or double) filling. The filling yarn is generally mercerized and a great many times extra silk ends are used to pro- duce a certain silk effect in the cloth. For the carding and spinning particu- lars we will consider the warp made up of l-40s cotton yarn and the filling of 2-60S yarn. THE COTTON USED should be of a good grade and a great deal of Allan seed cotton is used. This is generally of 1% to l^/^ inches staple and should be as clean as possible. In mixing this class of cotton, it is very important that all the bales mixed' should be of the same length of staple, and the overseer, or in large mills both the overseer of carding and the cot- ton sampler, sample the cotton from every bale, and if it is not up to the standard staple and grade, the bale is laid aside either to be taken back by the cotton broker or used for making yarns, which can be made out of a shorter staple cotton. After this the cotton is put through a bale break- er (if the mill has one which it should) or the cotton may be mixed by hand, care being taken when this latter method is used that the layers of cotton taken from the bale are pulled apart as much as possible. The ones in- charge of THE MIXING should watch the men while they are pulling the bales of cotton apart to see that they do not take too large layers from the bale and throw them into the mixing bin which they will do if possi- ble so as to get through with the job as quickly as possible, for it is a dirty job at the best. The bins should be made as large as possible so as to accommo- date as large a mixing as possible at one time, as larfee mixings help to make more even yarn than small mix- ings. IN SOME MILLS it is the custom to use two bins for mixing the same kind of cotton. The mixing is done as above described. But one bin" is emptied at a time, while the cotton in the other bin is allowed to dry out while the cotton from the first bin is being used. Of course v.'hen one bin is empty it is immediately filled up again and the cotton is allowed to dry out in it until the second bin is emptied of cotton. When cotton is put through a bale breaker or any machine v/hich opens the cotton up it is only necessary to use one bin and the cotton is or does not have to remain to air out, but may be used right away. The good waste from machines up to the slubber are used in the mixing, and cut-roviug is run in at the finished picker (it hav- ing first been run through the roving waste machine and made into laps at a breaker picker). The raw cotton is taken from the bin and put through an opener and TWO PROCESSES OF PICKING. The speed of the opener beater should be about 1,000 revolutions per minute. 42 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. the breaker and finished beater (two- bladed) about 1,400 to 1,450 revolutions per minute. It may seem strange that the speed of the beaters on the opener neps into the cotton, but it is necessary to run the beater at a higher rate of speed for this class of cotton because it is very dirty. and pickers should be about the same as when low-grade cotton was used, be- cause the general rule followed is that the longer stapled cotton being used, the less the speed of the beater, because longer cotton being used a highly speeded beater is apt to and does put EXPERIMENTS should be made with the beater in or- der to get it to run just fast enough so that it will take out the dirt and for- eign matter in the cotton.and the above speeds are given only as a basis from which to work. The weight of laps at A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 43 the breaker picker should be about 16 ounces to yard of laps and at the fin- isher about 11 ounces to yard of lap, or for the finer counts 10 ounces per yard of lap may be used. The total Weight of the lap is 35 pounds and at the finisher picker receiving about 42 beats of the beater for every inch feed The method of finding THE BEATS PER MINUTE is to multiply the revolutions per min- ute of beater to one revolution per minute of feed rolls (this may be cal- culated through the gears on the pick- er m the usual manner). Multiply i-ev- olutions per minute of beater by 2 (or a if a three-bladed beater is up^i). Divide this product by the circumfer- ence of the feed roll. For example, suppose that the beater made 197.5 rev- olutions per minute and was a 2-bladed beater; then 197.5 times 2 equals 395 divided by 3 (diameter of feed roll) times 3.14 plus equals 41.9 beats per inch. Ans. THE CARD. The next machine is the card, and at this machine we see changes. In the first the wire fillets on the cylinder and dofier are finer. A good size wire to use is 35s on the cylinder and 36 or 37 on doffer and top flats. All parts are set closer to each other with the ex- ception of the nose of the feed plate in relation to the licker-iu. The feed plate should be set so that the licker- in will not take the fibres being deliv- ered before they are free from the bit of the feed roll and feed plate. The speed of the top flats is sometimes in- creased by lagging the top flats driving pulley. This is for the purpose of hav- ing more working flats on the cylin- der and which consequently results in taking out more waste. The SPEED OF THE DOFFER is a great deal less and thus the pro- duction is smaller, for it is quality first and quantity second with this class of goods. Of course the quantity must be looked to to see that the production is as large as possible.but it must not be at the expense of quality. Sometimes on the finer counts of yarn the speed of the licker-in is reduced, and it is found to be of a great benefit to the sliver delivered at the front, because it not only cleans the cotton more thor- oughl5% but it also tends to. KEEP THE NEPS OUT and not to put them in. If carders have not tried this it might be a good plan to lag the licker-in pulley to 10 or 101-^ inches diameter, instead of nine inches as it now is when using long staple cotton, especially Sea Island cot- ton. The draft of the card should be about 125 to 140, the sliver at the front weighing about 45 grains to the yard and the production of the card being not over 500 pounds per week of 60 hours. Grind cards both often and light. The cotton for this class of goods is combed and BEFORE REACHING THE COMBOSIt passes through the sliver lap and rib- 44 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. bon lap machines, generally 14 ends up at the sliver lap and six laps at the rib- bon laps. The weight per yard of lap at the ribbon lap machine should be about 260 grains. As the ribbon lap machine is at the drawing frame, never draw more than you double. In some mills the ribbon lap machine is not used, but where it is used it saves about 1^4 per cent waste at the comb- er. THE COMBER should be properly set so as to take out about 16 per cent waste, the weight of sliver at front being about 45 grains to yard. The speed of comber for this class of cotton should be not over 90 neps per minute. This class of cotton is very hard to comb and should be watched all the time to see that it is being handled properly. After the comber two processes of drawing are used, the sliver at the finisher weighing 70 grains per yard. The settings of the rolls should be as follows: front to sec- ond 1% inches, second to third 1% inches, and third to back 1% inches. THE SLUBBER ROVING, should be .55 hank and the first inter- mediate fly frame roving 1.50 hank; second intermediate 4.00 hank, and 12 hanks or packs for spinning 60s and .55 hank slubber 2.00 first intermediate and 8.00 fine frame for 40s. Care must be used in setting the rolls as well as in the adjustment of other parts of the fly frames. The cotton is taken to the mule spinning room and spun into the counts mentioned above, from here it is taken and put through the different processes required and sent away to be mercerized. Dyeing Particulars. FIGURED SILK AND LENO WAIST- ING. DARK BLUE. 10 per cent tetrazo sulphur blue B. S per cent sulphide soda cone, 3 per cent sal soda,50 per cent common salt. Enter at boil, boil one hour, rinse quickly in cold water and give three washings in water. The tetrazo sulphur colors can be obtained from the New York and Boston Dyewood Company. BROWN. 10 per cent tetrazo sulphur brown R, 1 per cent tetrazo sulphur brown G, 9 per cent sulphide soda cone, 3 per cent sal soda, 80 per cent common salt. En- ter at boil, boil one hour, rinse quickly in water and then thoroughly three times. PEARL. 1 per cent tetrazo sulphur black R ex- tra, 1 per cent sulphide soda cone, 2 per cent sal soda, 10 per cent common salt; rinse well quickly in water, and then thoroughly three times. STEEL. 1 per cent tetrazo sulphur black Ex, 1 ounce tetrazo sulphur brown G, 1 per cent sulphide soda cone, 10 per cent common salt; rinse well quickly in water,and then thoroughly three times. LIGHT GREEN. 1 per cent new methylene blue GG.. y^ per cent thioflavine T, extra; enter at 120 degrees F. and get up to 160 de- grees F. in 30 minutes, and turn five or six times and wash. To be dyed or yarn mordanted with tannic acid and tartar emetic. TAN. 2 per cent tetrazo sulphur bronze, 2 per cent tetrazo sulphur brown G, 4 per cent sulphide soda cone, 3 per cent sal soda, 30 per cent common salt; enter at boil, boil one hour and wash well in three waters. ECRU. 1 per cent tetrazo sulphur bronze, 14 per cent tetrazo sulphur brown G, 1 per cent sulphide soda cone, 3 per cent sal soda, 20 per cent common salt; enter at boil, boil one hour, wash well in three waters. RED. 4 per cent benzo fast red GL, 20 per cent Glauber's salt, 2 per cent sal soda, enter at 150 degrees F, give six turns to 180 degrees F., wash well in water. PINK. 14 per cent diamond Rose GD, 2 per cent sal soda, 25 per cent GlatPber's salt; enter at boil, boil one hour, and wash in Vv^ater. MEDIUM BLUE. 6 per cent pyrogene Indigo blue, 5 per cent sodium sulphide, 3 per cent soda ash, 25 per cent Glauber's salt; enter at boil, boil one hour, and wash well in water. SKY BLUE. ly-i per cent immedial sky blue, 3 per cent sodium sulphide, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's salt; enter at boil, boil one hour; wash well in water. DARK GREEN. 10 per cent pyrogene green B, 3 per cent pyrogene yellow M, 13 per cent so- dium sulphide, 4 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's salt; enter at boil, A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 4& boil one hour; wash well in four waters. Finishing Particulars. Starch with eight ounces cornstarch 6 ounces white cocoanut oil softening, 1 gallon water, boil one hour; dry over stenter frame and calender. CORDUROY, Corduroy is a narrow, all cotton fab- ric, the distinguishing feature of which is the perfect half-round regu- lar ribs running warp ways through the cloth. As a fabric, it belongs to the general class of filling pile fabrics and is made of one system of warp and two of filling. The warp must be of good cotton staple to make a fine strong end. The pile filling should be of firsit-class cotton, soft spun, to blend more readily when the ribs are rubbed after being cut and brushed. The warp and ground filling is wov- en either -^' p or -| twill, the pile pick weaves with either one, two, or three warp end, and floats over from three to 12 warp ends. The length of the float of pile filling depends upon the width of rib or cord desired in the fabric. The important point about the pile weave is to cause the pile filling to weave with the same two or three warp threads. This gives us lines of binding and lines of filling floats run- ning warp ways. The velvety ribs or cords, as noted upon the face of a corduroy.are created by first cutting the lines of floats of the pile filling. This operation is per- formed by hand with a very sharp steel knife, after which the ends of the floats are carefully brushed, and then rubbed together to the proper degree of consistency desired in ribs. Corduroy is woven with from 160 to 500 picks of filling per inch; and is afterward dyed in dark blue, tan, buff, green and olive colors, to be used in making clothing for men. It is also used for upholstery pur- poses, either in plain solid colors or the plain color has an elaborate floral design printed upon it. These printed patterns are usually in bright colors, such as red, yellow, light green. IN PRINTING, the design is first engraved upon a set of copper rollers. These are set into a regular machine, and as the cloth pass- es over them, the color being fed to the rollers automatically,the design is placed upon the face of the cloth. It is woven so as to finish from 27 to ZlVo inches, the 27-inch for clothing and 31%-inch for upholstery. This fabric requires a loom to be in good condition, as the beating in of such high number of picks per inch of filling is hai'd on the loom, and also necessitates slow production. It is usually woven on dobby or witch loom, having single or double box. 1 or ^or^^ 1 2 Weaves are usually -j Filling, 1 ground, 1 pile, 1 ground pile, or 1 ground, 2 pile, 1 ground, 1 jDaaanDBBaDBBODi ffl5*fflafflffl>Bffl4IEBHfflBESS DaHftaaBBDaHDCiB BHtOSfflfflBSfflffifflGBBeB OBBDaUBDaBBDuBBD amssaBBSimBBSSiuSssei BaaBBBBBfflBBHBfi'fflB ■BCDtSBDDieBaGB^iDD Design. nananaananBQDDDa DDcaaanBaDDnDDc b DaDDDDBDCaDaDOBLj DnOBaODQDODD □□□ nDBnanDnnanaDDGD UBDDDBDDriiDCCBnG ■DDaB_DDBCDDBLCD Drawin2:-in Draft. RtH.i l':.in. DDOBDHZBD BQOaaBLJH DUBUuUl:* aODBCjUBU DUflbMBBM DDBUUUL.B GBBUBLJilu aauumuma DDBLiuLJUU BBDUDDDD Chain Draft. Ground Weave '-^ twiU. B Means Boats of Pile Filling □ Means sinking of Pile Filling under the warp for the purpose of binding pile, this to be woven in a pick and pick loom. Finish — Woven in the gray and dyed in the piece. CORDUROY. Four square inches equals 21.2 grains. Finished width, 31 inches equals 13.51 ounces. 48 ends per inch 2-28s cotton warp. 160 picks per inch l-24s cotton ground filling. 240 picks per inch l-20s cotton pile filling. The above equals finished cloth. Twenty pieces warp yarn, two inches equals 40 inches equals .65 grains; 40x 7000 equals 280000 divided by .65 equals 430769, equals 11965.8 divided by 840 equals 14.24 or 2-28s cotton warp yam. Eighty pieces ground filling, two 46 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. inches equals 160 inches equals 1.55 irrains: 160x7000 equals 1120000,divided bv 1.55 equals 722580, divided by 36 equals 20071.66, divided by 840 equals 23.89 or l-24s cotton ground filling. Weight of pile filling per one-half inch finished cloth two inches wide, equals 2.6 grains. 2.6 girains x 15% equals 40.32x72 equals 3097.5 grains divided by 437.5 equals 7.08 ounces. Pile filling per yard, cloth 31 inches wide. Forty-eight ends per inch finished times 31 inches equals 1488 yards plus 10 per cent take up in weaving equals 1653 yards of 2-28s cotton warp equals 2.249 ounces. 160 ground picks times 31 equals 4960 yards of l-24s cotton filling equals 3.- S36 ounces. 240 picks times 31 equals 7440 yards of l-20s cotton pile filling equals 7.0S ounces. 7440 yards times 16 equals 119040 yards divided by 840, equals 1417, di- vided by 7.08 equals l-20s pile filling. CONSTRUCTION. 36 ends per inch in reed; 38% inches wide, 10 per cent take-up; 25 per cent contraction in width from reed to finished fabric; 18 per cent in- crease in weight in dyeing. COLOR— DARK GREEN. To be used for upholstery purposes. — ? twill weave. Filling: 1 ground pick, 2 pile pick, 1 ground pick, 1 pile pick. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Yarn suitable for making corduroy is made in the second division of mills, given in a previous lesson. The raw stock used should be of a good grade cotton of about 1 inch staple. The mixings should be as large as possible for reasons already stated in previous lessons. One large group of mills, which make this class of goods, use a somewhat different machine for open- ing up the raw cotton from that which has been described, and instead of us- ing an opener after the cotton is put through the bale breaker, it is fed to a machine called THE WILLOW. The cotton is fed into the machine in small lots and the machine pulls it apart and thoroughly airs it. Some overseers claim that this machine treats the cotton to a more thorough airing than when an opener is used. It is again claimed that, in consequence of this fact, the cotton may be used right from the bale or mixed at this ma- chine. It is an English machine, and while this system is used to some ex- tent in England, it is the general cus- tom to use the opener in this country. Good sliver waste from the cards and drawing frames is used in the mixing, as is also the sliver and lap waste,from the comber room, when the mill is equipped with combers. TWO PROCESSES OF PICKERS are used with either a willow or an opener. Cut-roving waste is used and is mixed in at the finisher picker in the way that has been described in a pre- vious- lesson. If an opener is used, the speed of the beater should be about 1,000 to 1,100 revolutions per minute, with a speed of the fan about 350 rev- olutions per minute. The speed of the beater at the breaker picker should be about 1.500 revolutions per minute, and the speed of the fan about 1,400 revolu- tions per minute. A good weight for the lap made at the breaker picker is 40 pounds, while a good weight per yard of lap is 16 ounces. At the fin- isher picker the speed of the beater should be 1,450 revolutions per minute for a two-bladed beater, or 9.50 revo- lutions per minute for a three-bladed beater. The speed of the fan should be about 1,100 revolutions per minute with either beater. A GOOD WEIGHT for the lap would be about 38 pounds and the weight per yard 14 ounces. To get the grade of cotton used for this class of cloth clean, about 42 beats should be given to every inch of cot- ton fed at the back of the finisher pick- er. In other words, every inch of cot- ton should be struck 42 times before it is passed by the beater. With the above speed of the beater (1,450) this would be the number of blows that every inch of cotton received. Don't forget that it is very important to re- move the fly from underneath the pick- ers at regular intervals during the day, because, if the fly is allowed to accum- ulate to any great extent, it might be drawn into the already cleaned cotton passing through the machine, and it is sometimes done as all persons work- ing around cards know, as they have seen at various times large patches of fly on the lap of cotton. This of course requires the card TO DO EXTRA WORK and clean and take out this dirt. It very often results in bringing up the feed roll or the licker-in of the card, if not noticed in time to remove the fly. It will be seen that it is important A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 47 to keep the picker room clean at all times. It is very important to keep foreign matter, such as nails or pieces of metal, out of the cotton in the pick- er room, because of the liability of fires in the pickers, these being started by the foreign substance coming in con- tact with the quick moving beater blades and a spark being struck which ignites the cotton. This is apt to cause a bad Are if not promptly at- tended to. The SETTINGS OF THE CARD should be the same as given in a pre- vious lesson on yarn, made in the sec- ond division of mills. The draft of the card should be about 100 to 125 for this class of cotton, the weight of the sliver at the front ^5 grains to the yard; production, about 800 pounds per week of 60 hours. Three processes of drawing are used, the weight at the fin- isher drawing being 70 grains per yard. The hank roving at the slubber should be about .55. The two-process fly frame is used, the hank at the first in- termediate being 2, and at the second intermediate 6.00 hank roving. The nile for settings at these machines for this hank of roving has been given. The spinning frame spins all the re- quired counts for this hank roving, which, of the corduroy under descrip- tion, is 20s, 24s, and 28s, by changing the draft gear. The 28s yarn is then taken to the twister and doubled, so as to make 2-2Ss. A good sizing for the slasher for this class of goods is as follows: Water, 100 gallons; potato starch, 70 pounds; tallow, four pounds; turpentine, one pint. Dyeing Particulars. These goods are dyed at the jigger machine, a piece of 30 pounds being dyed. Care must be taken not to crush the pile. One-dip colors are used for some goods, but, as the sulphur colors are so much improved, the bottom color is dyed with sulphur colors, and the goods topped with brighter aniline col- ors. COLOR NO. 1— BLACK. Blacks are sometimes dyed with a sulphur black as a bottom color. For ?.0 poimds of cloth (all of these colors are for .30 pounds of cloth): 15 gallons liquor. 3 pounds immedial black V Ex., 2 pounds sodium sulphide, 3 pounds sal soda, 3 pounds common salt. Dissolve in separate tub, boil and strain through cotton cloth. Add to jig, in two por- tions, at first two ends. Run for 30 minutes at boil. Rinse in jig. After- treat with 1 pound bichromate potash, one-half pound sulphate iron. Rinse well and dye logwood black. Rinse well and top with a paint color as Prussian blue, or dye with a basic color. ANOTHER BLACK. Dye as color No. 1, with immedial black, and top with oxydiamine black AJVT, and rinse. Top with basic color or paint with Prussian blue. DARK BLUE. 2-4 pounds immedial blue C, 2-4 pounds sulphide sodium, 3 pounds so- da ash, 3 pounds common salt at 175 degrees F. Run 30 minutes. After- treat, cold 15 gallons liquor, 4 pounds pei'oxide soda, 6 ounces ammonia. Run 20 minutes. For further batches, half the amount of drugs will suffice. The color can be shaded up with basic colors. TAN. 1 pound immedial brown B, 1 pound sodium sulphide, 2 pounds sal soda, 3 pounds common salt. Run at boil for 30 minutes. Top with Bismarck brown. BUFF. 1 pound immedial bronze A, 2 ounces immedial yellow D, 2 pounds sodium sulphide, 2 pounds sal soda. 3 pounds common salt. Run at boil 30 minutes. Rinse and aftertreat. 1 pound bichro- mate of potash. PEARL. 3 ounces immedial black V extra, 1 ounce immedial brown B, 1 pound so- dium sulphide, 2 pounds sal soda. 2 pounds common salt. Run at boil 30 minutes. Aftertreat, % pound bichro- mate potash, V2 pound sulphate copper. RED 2 pounds diamine fast red F, 10 pounds Glauber's salt. Run one hour at boil. Rinse. Aftertreat, V2 pound fluoride chrome. Top with diamine scarlet or safranine. GREEN. 1 pound immedial black V extra, 2 pounds sodium sulphide, 2 pounds sal soda, 3 pounds common salt. Run 30 minutes at boil. Rinse. Top with solid green crystals 0. LIGHT GREEN. 14 pound katigen chrome blue 5G, 1 pound sodium sulphide, 2 pounds sal A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. soda, S pounds common salt. Run 30 minutes at boil. Rinse. Top with auramine and green. OLIVE. 1 pound pyrogene olive N, 2 pounds sodium sulphide, 2 pounds sal soda, 3 pounds common salt. Run 30 minutes. Rinse. Top with, auramine and Bis- marck brown. DARK BRO\^^SI. 2 pounds sulphur brown, 4 ounces sulphur black, 3 pounds sodium sul- phide, 3 pounds common salt. Run 30 minutes. Rinse. Top with auramine green, Bismarck brown or paint a brown on top, or dye a catechu and chrome bottom, and top with the above brown. DIMITY. Dimity is a light-weight cotton wash fabric, the distinguishing feature of which is the cords or ribs running DBDinHDaDCDaaaia □■aaaBaaGCOB ■■■ ■naaBaBDaBaaaaaD DaaaaBGBDDaacna BaBnan»aa«anaDDG DaaaDBDBi. DDBoaaa ■aBaBQBaBBBaBDDa Design. DODBamBDnnnnBrn DaiiGDCJBaDDDOBana DBaaaBaQGGGBaDDn ■aDaBaaGBDDGaGDa Drawin{r-in Draft. aGBBnaBBanGB»nnD BBGGaBGGBBBaGBBB I S ends per heddle and dent. Keed Plan. naca BGBG DBGB BGBa DBDB BOBG DBDB BDBD Chain Draft. warpwise through the cloth, and pro- duced by doubling the warp threads in either heddle or reed in sufficient quan- tity to form the rib desired. Dimity is a ladies' summer dress fab- ric and is made of regular cotton yarn, from l-60s to the very finest counts in both warp and filling, and is made in white and colors, solid white being used in the more expensive grades (warp and filling). Dimity is made in ribbod stripe ef- fects, and in such colors as ecru, pearl, light blue and blue. These colors are sometimes printed upon the face of the fabric, after it has been woven in the white. Jacquard scroll and other llgures are printed upon the white dimity (,c create elaborate patterns. Dimity is always woven with a plain weave — j, and by printing fancy floral designs upon the white surface of the cloth, that compactness of texture is retained which the plain weave alone can give. If, for instance, the floral effect were woven into the cloth, ends and picks remaining the same as for the plain weave, there would be cre- ated loose places warpwise of the cloth, due to the warp floats in forming flg- ures. Dimity, being a light-weight fabric composed of very flne yarns, is there- fore best adapted to the lightest run- ning looms. A plain or dobby loom would be the most suitable for this fabric; one capable of weaving from two beams, as these are usually wov- en. Dimity is made in grades having from 64 ends and picks per inch to 100 and more ends and picks per inch, the count of the yarn varying in accor- dance with the degree of texture de- sired. Dimity as a dress fabric has a rath- er soft feel, and so receives but very slight amount of starch in finishing, which process includes washing, dry- ing and calendering the goods, which are afterward rolled or lapped into bolts, "each cut or piece constituting a bolt." Each bolt or piece is then folded, the paper bands put on, and the goods are ready to pack and ship. Construction. < One square inch equals .6 grain. 281^x36 equals 1,026x6 equals 615.6 divided by 1 square inch equals 615.6 divided by 437.5 equals 1. i07 ounces per yard; 28^^ inches wide fin- ished. 40 pieces white warp yarn x 1% in- ches equals 50 inches equals .16 grains; 50x7,000 equals 350,000, divided by 1-6 equals 2,187,500, divided by 36 equals 60,762, divided by 840 equals l-72s cot- ton warp. 35 pieces white filling yarn x 1^/^ in- ches equals 52% inches equals 1.6 grains. 52l^x7,000 equals 367,500 divided by .16 equals 2,296,875 divided by 36 equals 63,691 divided by 840 equals 1-7GS cotton filling. 281/^ inches wide finished, 106 ends per inch finished, 84 picks per inch fin- ished, equals 29 3-5 inches in reed, 100 ends per inch, 80 picks per inch loom. 1,800 reed — 2 ends per dent (ground). A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 49 •cord — 3 ends per dent and heddle, 5 per cent take-up in weaving. 3,021 ends plus 5 per cent equals 3,180 yards l-72s cotton warp equals .841 ounces, 84 picks times 28% inches equals 2,394 yards l-76s cotton filling equals .6 ounces, total 1.441 ounces; ].441 ounces per yard finished. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Dimity, or rather the counts of yarn required to make this style of cloth, requires first-class machinery and it is, therefore, made in the third division of mills as given in a previous article. The grade and length of staple of the cotton used varies with the weight per yard of the cloth be- ing made and may be composed of 1%-inch. Allen cotton to 2-mch Sea Island cotton. For this lesson we beater. This gives the cotton passing through the finisher picker about 29 blows or beats per inch. The laps should not be as heavy as when lower grades of cotton are used and a good weight of lap at the finisher picker is 30 pounds or 10 ounces to the yard. The card setting points should be set as close as possible with the excep- tion of the feed plate to the licker-in. The space between these two parts should be increased to the correct length of the staple being used. The DRAFT OF THE CARD should be increased to 125 or even 150, the speed of the licker-in made slower by lagging the licker-in pulley to 101/^ inches, the speed of the flats speed of the beater should also be slower and at the finisher picker increased and the sped of the doffer SAMPLES OF DIMITY. will consider the counts to be 80s and the cotton used to be 1%-incli Sea Island. The mixings should be large and cotton allowed to dry out before being worked. As Sea Island cotton is comparatively a clean cot- ton it REQUIRES LESS CLEANING than other cottons, and another rea- son for putting it through less proc- esses in the picker room is because of its length. If run through too many beaters the cotton is apt to be filled with neps. For Sea Island cotton of medium to long staple, i. e., from 1% to 21/4 inches, it is better to use only opener and one process of picking as compared with two processes of pick- ling for other grades of cotton. The should not exceed 1,000 revolutions per minute, for a rigid two-bladed slower. The production of the card for fine counts of Sea Island yarn should not exceed 350 pounds per week of 60 hours, the weight per yard at the card being 40 grains per yard. The stock is then passed to the comber room and is here passed through the sliver lap and the ribbon lap machines and from here to the comber. Generally seaking, 14 ends are doubled at the sliver lap machine and the weight of the lap at the front is about 230 grains. Six laps are put up at the ribbon lap machine and the WEIGHT OF LAP DELIVERED is about 200 grains per yard. In very fine work only five laps are put up at the ribbon lap machine. The comber used is what is termed a six-headed comber, and the draft of this machine 50 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. is considerable. The amount of waste taken out at the comber is more than that talien out of all the rest of the . card room combined and for the cot- ton under description is from 20 to 25 per cent. The weight of the sliver being delivered is about 34 grains and the production of a six-head comb- er making 85 nips per minute is about 240 pounds per week of 60 hours. The cotton is next put through two processes of drawing, the weight at the finisner drawing being 55 grains per yard. The slubber makes this sliver into a .80 hank roving. THE HANK ROVING at the first intermediate is 2.25; at the second intermediate 5.00 hank and at the jack 18.00 hank. Care should be taken with the settings of the lolls at all the machines, and also the cotton in process should be kept as fiee from dirt and bunches as pos- sible. Cleaners should be frequently picked so that the bunches gathered on ttem will not pass through into the cleaned cotton. The cotton is next carried to the spinning room, some mills using ring frame yarn for both warp and filling and some mills using ring spinning for v.'arp and mule spun yam for fill- ins:. We will consider that the warp yam is ring spun and the fining is ring spun. The doublings at the ring frame are 2 into 1 and the draft of the machine about 9 minus. It will be understood that ONLY THE LATEST STYLES of ring frames can spin 80s yarn, ; ^d to do it it is desirable to have the guide rolls rotate so that the roving being drawn over them will not be broken. For 80s yarn a good gauge of spindle is 2% inches with a I14, diameter ring and a 4i/^-inch traverse. The size traveler to be used varies and the correct one is only found by experimenting, but a good foundation to work from is a 22-0 traveler. The standard warp twist is 4.75 x square root of count. The speed of the spindles should be 9,400 revolutions per minute and the production about .32 pounds per spindle per week. The filling is made at the mule and all that need be said about this ma- chine is that the twist is less only 3.25 X c.-e square root of the counts being put in. A good size to use for slasher is as follows: Water, 100 gallons; potato starch, 54 pounds; Yorkshire gum, 2 pounds; soap (white), 172 pounds; paraffin wax, 1 pound. Dyeing Particulars. PINK. For 100 pounds of cloth, 1 ounce ben- zo fast pink 2BL, 10 per cent soap, 150 degrees F. LIGHT SKY BLUE. 1/^ per cent immedial sky blue pow- der, 1 per cent sodium sulphide, 1 per cent soda ash, 10 per cent Glauber's salt; wash well and top with 1 ounce Methylene blue O 0. LIGHT GREEN. 4 ounces brilliant benzo green B, % ounce chrysophenine, 10, per cent soap, 150 deigrees F. PEARL. 4 ounces immedial black NRT, % per cent sulphide sodium, i/^ per cent soda ash, 2 per cent Glauber's salt. GRAY. 4 per cent immedial black NRT, ^ ounce immedial olive-B, V2 per cent sulphide soda, Vz per cent soda ash, 2 per cent Glauber's salt. LIGHT SLATE. Yz pound immedial direct blue B, ^ ounce immedial olive B, Vz pound sul- phide soda, Vz pound soda ash, 2 per cent Glauber's salt. SLATE. IVz per cent immedial black NRT, 1^ per cent immedial direct blue B, 3 per cent sodium sulphide, 1 per cent so- da ash, 10 per cent Glauber's salt. ECRU. V2 per cent immedial bronze A, % ounce immedial yellow D, 1 pound so- dium sulphide, 1 pound soda ash, 10 pounds Glauber's salt. LIGHT TAN. Yz per cent immedial cutch G, ^ per cent immedial orange C, 1 per cent sodium sulphide, 1 per cent soda ash, 10 per cent Glauber's salt. NAVY BLUE. 3% per cent immedial indone B, 2^ per cent immedial direct blue B, 5 per cent sodium sulphide, 2 per cent soda ash, 20 per cent Glauber's salt. SCARLET. 5 per cent benzo fast scarlet 8 BS, 30 per cent Glauber's salt, 2 per cent soda ash. SALMON. 4 per cent benzo fast orange S, 1 ounce benzo fast scarlet 8 BS, 10 per cent Glauber's salt, Vz per cent soda ash. MAUVE. 4 ounces benzo fast violet R, 2 ounces A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 6r benzo fast blue BN, 10 per cent Glau- ber's salt, V2 per cent soda ash. Finishing Particulars. Mix up cold '4 pound white German dextrine, 1 gallon water, boil one hour, and starch through mangle and dry over tenter frame. CHAMBRAY. Chambray is a light-weight, single cloth fabric, thatis always woven ^ith a plain weave and always has a white selvedge. It is a staple fabric of many years' standing, being next in the line of cotton goods after the better grades of gingham. In effect it is a cloth having but one color in the warp, and woven with a white filling, this combination producing a solid color effect, the white filling having the chance of reducing any harshness of warp color in the cloth. COMPOSITION. Chambray is composed of one warp DB^BCBOB aananGGB ■DIGBGia GGBGCDBG DaOBDBGa GBG. BOG ■aaaansD B^a^HGaG DBGaoai-a Drawinj-iQ Draft BDaaaoBD Daaaaaaa GGBBGDBB BOBGaaaG BBJGBlB^G Weare Reed Plan and one filling, either all cotton, cot- ton and silk, or all silk. It is made 27 to 30 inches in width and of l-30s cotton warp to l-60s silk, the count of yarn being governed by the weight per yard desired. The weight per finished yard is 2 to 3V2 ounces. GOOD COLORS for the warp are navy blue, dark brown, pink, lavender, black, nile green, etc. This fabric is woven on any and all p^ain looms that will we^ve other light-weight cloths, the lightest run- ning looms being the best on account of being easier on the fine warp yarns employed. It can be woven successfully on the Mutual or Fair- mount, Mason, Colvin, Lowell and other roller looms. Chambray, when made of cotton warp and filling, receives a regular gingham finish, and the loom width can be restored to the goods during the finishing by the process of ten- teriug. TENTERING means the running of the goods over a machine, fitted underneath with a series of coils of steam pipe; the top of T,he machine is fitted with an end- less chain (on either side). This chain has a row of steel needles standing erect upon its face. These chains are adjustable. Thia permits of altering the space between the chains, the idea being to set the chain the width desired, and as the machine runs, pass the needles through either selvedge, and the cloth is stretched to the width de- sired. To finish chambray, first run through the sprinkler, then through a solution of warm size, to stiffen the fabric. After the sizing the goods- are tentered, to widen and partly dry them, then run through the cylinders to complete drying and last the cal- ender to remove wrinkles, and to pro- duce smooth, evenly ironed finish. 1 square inch equals 1.23 grains. 27xc)6 equals 973x1.23 equals 1,195.- 56 divided by 1 equals 1,195.56 divid- ed by 437.5 equals 2.736 ounces per yard. 27 inches wide finished. 15 pieces light blue warp yam x 4 inches equals 60 inches equals .58 grains — 6 per cent weight size equals .5,452 grains — 15 per cent take-up. equals .4,635 grains. 60x7,000 equals 420,000 divided by .4,635 equals 906,148 divided by 35 equals 25,176 divided by 840 equals 1-30S warp. 30 pieces white filling yam x 2 inches equals 60 inches equals .55 grains. 60x7,000 equals 420,000 divided by .55 equals 763,636 divided by 36 equals 21,214 divided by 840 equals l-36s filling. 78 ends per inch finished and 60 picks per inch finished equal 72 ends in reed per inch and 56 picks in loom per inch. 6 per cent size on warp; 15 per cent take-up on warp; weaving. 1,300 reed, 2 ends per dent. 27 inches wide finished including selvedge. 78 ends x 27 inches equals 2,106 plus 32 ends white selvedge equals 2,138. 2,106 bine ends + 16% take-up =2,477.65 vards l-30s warp = 1.673 ozs. 32 white ends -t- 15% take-up =37.66 yards l-30s selvedge = .023 OZB. 60 picks per inch x 27 Inches = 1.620 yards l-26s white fllllng = 1.186 ozb. 2.782 ozs. 2.782 ounces per yard. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The required machines, etc., to make chambray belong to the second 52 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. division of mills as given in a previous lesson. For this class of goods a 1% to IV^-inch staple American cotton may be used. Mix- ings should be large so that the yarn will always be as uniform as possible. After being run through the bale breaker, the cotton should be passed through an opener and two proc- esses of picking. The usual points that have already been given in con- nection with the picker room should be looked after and need not be re- peated here. The speed of the beat- er on opener is 1,050 revolutions per minute, fan 350 revolutions per min- ute, and be sure to keep hopper on this machine at least three-fourths full of cotton all the time that the machine is working. The speed of a two-bladed rigid beater at the breaker is 1,500 revolutions per minute and the speed of the fan 1,400 revolutions per min- ute. The lap at this machine weighs 16 ounces to the yard or about 40 pounds for the total weight of lap. The speed of the beater at the finish- er should be about 1,450 revolutions per minute and the fan 1,100 revolu- tions per miunte, the weight of the lap, 14 ounces, the total weight of the lap being 39 pounds. Cut roving ■waste is mixed in with the good waste at tne finisher picker as usual. The settings of the card should be about as given in a previous lesson when the settings for mills making ma- dium counts of yarn were given in de- +"" The draft of the card should be about 100 and the speed of the licker- in 300 revolutions per minute. The wire used should be No. 34 oncylinder and 35 on doffer and flats. The cards should be ground at least once a month and stripped three times a -up = 951 yards l-16s = 1.135 ounces) 876 yards 1-163 = 1.043 ounces) 876 yards l-16s =1.043 ounces) Warp. Filling. Brush and press. 4.356 ounces. C4 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. of the finished lap should be at least 39 pounds at the finisher picker. Always keep laps enougrh of the card room so that, if an accident happens to the picking machinery, the cards will nor. be stopped for laps. Keep at least 10 per cent ahead. The wire fillet used on the card.=? should be coarse, that used on the cyl- inder being ONE NUMBER COARSER than that used on the doffer and flats. A great many mills in the South use No. 33 wire on the cylinder and No. 34 or No. 35 on the doffer and flats. On this class of goods use as large a di- ameter doffer as possible, either a 26 or 27-inch. Grind cards often and keep top flats sharp. because, if the flats are dull, good carding cannot be ob- tained. The draft of the card for this class of goods should not exceed 100. The speed of the licker-in should be at least 3-50 revolutions per minute. The WEIGHT OF SLIVER at front should be about 65 grains per yard. The sliver is put through two processes of drawing, the weight of sliver at the front of the finishing be- ing about 70 grains per yard. The set- tings of the drawing frame rolls should be as follows: for %-inch stock.front to second roll, ly? inches; second to third, 1% inches; third to back, 1% to 2 in- ches. The slubber roving should be .50 hank. Two processes of fly frames are used, the hank roving at the first interme- diate being 1.50 and at the second 4.00 hank. Always look out for bunches at the fly frames and be sure that your steel rolls are set to the best ad- vantage. Keep your TOP LEATHER ROLLS in perfect condition and do not run one that is cut, bruised, uneven or chan- neled. See that the traverse guideo are all working so as not to make chan- neled rolls. The cotton roving is taken to the ring spinning room and here made into the required count of yarn. The following are good particulars to be used on 20s warp and filling on spin- ning frames: warp, gauge of spindle 2%inches; diameter of ring li/^ inches, length of traverse 6% inches; for fill- ing, gauge of spindle, 2% inches, di- ameter of ring lYz inches; length of traverse 6i^ inches; speed of spin- dles, 7,250 revolutions per minute. Use any of the best spindles on thf, spinning frame. The yarn is taken to the spooler room and spooled and then run on a warp beam,thence to the slash- er where it is sized and then is readv for weaving unless the yarn has to be dyed before being woven as in the pres- ent article. Then the method differs somewhat. Dyeing Particulars. Light blue is dyed with the ordinary indigo blue vat, but as sulphur blues are faster to exposure and washing, they are mostly dyed. LIGHT BLUE. 1 per cent innaedial indone 3B, V2 per cent immedial indone B, 2 per cent sulphide sodium, 2 per cent soda, 20 per cent Glauber's. DARK BROWN. 4 per cent immedial cutch O, 6 per cent immedial brown A, Vo per cent immedial black NG, 10 per cent sodium sulphide, 3 per cent soda, 30 per cent Glauber's. SLATE. V/o per cent katigen black SW, 2 per cent sulphide sodium, 2 per cent soda, 30 per cent Glauber's. RED. 5 per cent benzo fast red 4 BS, 3 per cent sal soda, 30 per cent Glauber's. LIGHT ORANGE. 2 per cent immedial orange C, 2 per cent sodium sulphide. 3 per cent soda, 20 per cent Glauber's. DRAB. 1 per cent immedial black NG, 1 per cent immedial brown A, 2 per cent so- dium sulphide, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent soda. SHEETING. Sheeting is a light-weight, single cloth, composed of all cotton yarns, from l-18s to l-40s warp and filling, standard goods weighing 2i/^ to 6 yards per pound. It is sold in both the gray and bleached state, the bleaching being done after the cloth is woven. Sheeting is never made in colors or patterns, but always in solid bleached or unbleached effects, and is woven on any and all single box roller looms, such as Draper, Lowell, Mason, Colvin, Kilburn & Lincoln, etc., cotton harness being used in most cases. The Draper loom has the peculiar ad- vantage over the other looms, in that it has an automatic warp stop mo- tion, which stops the loom when a warp end breaks, also having a fining hopper or magazine which holds 18 filling bobbins, the filling replenishing itself in the shuttle as the bol^bin be- 36;^Ht7/'"*^ ( ^ A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 65 «omes empty. All the looms have an automatic let-off motion to regulate the warp. Sheeting warps are all made on THE SLASHER, there being either four or six beams to a set, and these are filled with yarn run from spools set in the creel rack ot the warp mill. Each beam has a pro- portionate numiber of the total warp ends, viz., 2,000 ends, four beams, equals 500 ends per beam. These beams are set in regular order at the further end of the slasher frame. The total warp ends are then run througih a solution of size, and around the hot cylinder, and then upon a beam, thereby sizing and beaming the warp at one operation. Sheeting requires nothing in the way of finishing, except being run through a plate folder, on which machine, hav- ing a brush attached, the cloth is at once brushed and folded in any de- sired leng'th of fold. 36 inches is the standard width for sheeting. CONSTRUCTION. Always a ^ — • plain weave. 4 square inches equals 4.15 grains. 36 X 36 equals 1,296 x 4.15 equals 5,378.4 divided by 4 equals 1,344.6 divided by 437.5 equals 3.07 ounces per yard. 30 pieces yarn (warp) x 21^ inches equals 70 inches equals .89 grains minus 6 per cept size equals .83 grains. 70 x ' TOOO equals 490,000 divided by .83 equals 590,361 divided by 36 equals 16,399 divided by 840 equals 19.5 or l-20s warp. 60 pieces yarn (filling) x IV^ inches equals 90 inches equals .89 grains. 90 X 7,000 equals 630,000 divided by .89 equals 707,864 divided by 36 equals 19,- 662 divided by 840 equals 23.41 or l-24s filling. 48 ends per inch plus 44 picks per inch equals 44 ends in reed and 42 picks in loom. Reed 800 — 2 ends per dent, .38 inches , including 16 ends selvedge, _6_2SI_££ai -siao-^M^ijugjyj IQ -Per cent take-up o n warp, 5% pei*dent contractioiTin widt'fiT 1,728 plus 16 equals 1,744 ends plus 10 per cent take-up equals 1,937 yards l-20s warp equals 1.83 ounces; 42 picks X 38 equals 1,586 yards. l-24s filling equals 1.25 ounces; total 3.08 ounces. Standard grades equals 36 inches wide. 52 ends, 52 picks, l-20s cotton warp and filling; 6 per cent size, 5^^ per cent shrinkage in width in weaving; 38 inches tn reed; 4.10 yards per pound. 64 ends, 64 picks, l-32s warp, l-40s filling; 6 per cent size, 5% per cent shrinkage in width in weaving; 38 7V inches i i reed; 5.86 yards per pound. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The counts of the yarns used in mak- ing sheetings vary in different parts of the country in different mills and even in the same mill two grades of sheet- ings are sometimes made. The mills that make sheetings may belong to any one of the three divisions as given in a previous article. In thiis article we will consider the sheetings in two grades, the first being made up of I83 warp and the finer grade made up or 40s warp and filling. The first or COARSE GRADES OF SHEETINGS are made in the first division of mills and the staple of cotton used would be a'bout one incn in diameter. The mixing would in most cases oe per- formed by hand and should be as large as possible. It would be put throug'h two processes of picking, first being DBOBDHC ■i«ni_ ■ ■ floa ■ jBDanaa Daaaoaoa BaaoBDaa Plain Weave aaDBaana aaaaaaaa Drawing- in Draft run through an opener. The speeds of the various parts on the machines in this room would be as follows: Speed of beater on openers, 1,050 revolutions per minute; fan, 350; speed of beater on breaker picker, 1,500 revolutions per minute; speed of fan, 1,400 revolutions per minute; speed of beater on finish- er picker, 1,450 revolutions per minute; speed of fan, 1,100 revolutions per minute. The WEIGHT OF THE LAP at the different machines for this class of goods would be as follows: At the front of the breaker picker, 40 pounds or 16 ounces to the yard; at the front of the finisher picker, 39 i)ounds or 14^^ ounces to the yard. Always keep the hopper of the opener full. The above speeds and number of processes could also be used for fine sheetings, using 40s yam with the following exceptions: Instead of being mixed by hand, a bale breaker and conveying trunks would be used, and the staple of cotton would be about 1% inches. The weight of tae lap at the breaker would be about the same, but at the finisher picker would be less or about 35 pounds for the total G6 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. ■weiglit of lap or 12 14 ounces to tlie yard. Always have laps of both classes uniform in weight, and, if the laps vary one-half pound in either direction from standard weight, they should be set aside and put back into mixing. Use cut roving in the mixing, mixing it as shown in a previous arti- cle. Double four into one in the picker room. The SETTINGS FOR THE CARD for the coarse sheetings should be wide, because of the large weight of cotton Lap being passed through, and coarse wire should be used, 33 on the cylinder and 34 on tops and doffer. The drafts should not exceed 100 and the produc- tion should he about 900 pounds per week of 60 hours, the weight of the sliver being 65 grains to the yard. The settings for the finer sheetings at the card should be closer and a fine wire fillet should be used. The draft of the card should not be less than 100 and the production should not exceed 600 pounds per week of 60 hours. Grind cards and tops as often as possible and strip three times a day on both grades of sheetings. Go over the settings after each grinding and keep cards clean. The coarser grade of sheeting is put through TWO PROCESSES OF DRAWING, the weight per yard o'f the sliver at the front being 70 grains per yard, the doublings being six into one and the speed of the front roll 400 revolutions per minute. The finer grade of sheet- ing is put through three processes of drawing, the other particulars be- ing the same, excepting the settings, which are wider. Good settings are as follows: For one inch stock, front to second roll, 1% inches; second to third roll, 1% inches; third to back roll, 1\^ inches; for 1% inch stock, from front to second, 1% inches; sec- ond to third, 1% inches; third to back, 1% inches. Keep bottom steel rolls clean and top leather rolls should al- ways be in perfect condition. Varnish those rolls at regular intervals and al- ways keep a supply of extra varnished rolls o-n hand, so that imperfect rolls may be taken out at any time and re- placed by rolls in good condition. The hank of the roving at the front of the slubber should be .55 to .50 in each case. The coarser sheeting yam has to be put through two processes of fly frames, the hank at the first interme- diate being 1.50 and at the second 5 hank. THE ROVING for making the finer sheeting passes through three processes of fly frames, tlie hank roving at the different processes being as follows: First intermediate, 1.50; second intermediate, 4, and fly frame, 10. The roving for both grade* of sheetings are spun into yam on the ring spinning frame. The particulars for a warp frame for spinning iSs be- ing No. 4 Draper, McMullen or VVhitin spindle; gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring 27 inches; traverse. 7 inches; speed of spindle, 9,400 revolu- tions per minute, turning off about 2% pounds per spindle per week of 60 hours. For a warp frame making ^s yarn, use No. 2 Draper, McMullen or Whitin spindle, gauge of frame 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; traverse, 6i/^ inches; speed of spindle, 10,000 revolutions per minute, produc- ing about .95 pounds per spindle per week of 60 hours. The warp yarn is spooled and warped and run through the slasher. A good SIZE MIXTURE for 18s yarn, one set of beams, 1,500 to 2,000 pounds, is as follows: 160 gallons of water, 100 pounds starch, 20 to 40 pounds sizene (according to make), 2 to 8 pounds tallow, according to results. For 68 X 68 heavy sheetings, with 22s warp yarn, use 100 gallons water, 70 pounds potato sitarch, 4 pounds tallow and 1 pint of turpentine. CHEVIOT SHIRTING, Cheviot shirting is a narrow, all-cot- ton fabric, weighing from four to five ounces per yard of 27 inches width finished and is composed of single or double ends in the warp and single filling. The effect of the double ends is entirely different from that pro- duced by a two-ply thread, and is really meant to create a rib weave ef- fect. This fabric is made of cotton yams, from 1-1 6s to l-22s in the warp and filling, and the cloth contains from 40 to 46 double ends per inch in warp and 36 to 40 picks per inch in the filling. Another grade is made by weaving 36 to 62 single ends per inch in the cloth, and 19 to 52 picks per inch in the fill- ing finished. BY THE FIRST METHOD there is produced a cloth that is at once stout and pliable, and having ex- cellent wearing qualities. This cloth is used principally in the manufactui^ of shirts and mock shirts for the use of workmen accustomed to rough, dirty work, such as miners and rail- road men, and those similarly em- A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 67 ployed. It is nuade in atripe pattern, usually of the daorker tones of fast colors, such, as dark blue, dark brown, etc., in the warp, and filling to match. In these warp sbripe patterns the dark colors form the body or groimd of the pattern and the white warp forms but a narrow pin stripe in the cloth. Then there are the light pat- terns, in which nearly all the bright colors are used, such as light blue, orange, red, light green, etc. In this case the body or ground of the cloth is formed by the white warp, and the bright color forms the pin stripe in the cloth. Print jiarns are occasional- ly introduced in the light colored pat- terns to create mixed color effects. The filling in the light patterns is al- ways white. In making cheviot shirt- ing there is rather A HEAVY SIZE placed upon the warp yam. This per- mits of the cloth retaining quite a percentage of size after weaving, and as this fabric receives nothing but sprinkling and pressing after leaving the loom, the excessive amount of size gives the fabric a better cover, feel, and apparent bulk, which is its most distinguishng feature as a material for workmen's shirts. Cheviot shirting can be woven upon any plain roller loom, either single or double box, such as the Mason, Lewis- ton, Lowell, Colvin, Kilbum and Lin- coln, Mutual OT Fairmount looms. It is generally drawn in and woven on 4 harnesses so as not to crowd the hed- dies in weaving, as would be the case if but 2 harnesses were used. Most all cheviot shirting is woven with a plain weave, although sometimes a -- — warp effect, 45 degree twill weave, is used. CHEVIOT SHIRTING. 1 square inch equals 1.83 grains. 27x36 equals 972x1.83 equals 1,778.76 divided by 1 square inch equals 1,778,- .76 divided by 437.5 equals 4.065 ounces per yard. 44 pieces white warp yam x Yz inch long equals 22 inches equals .35 grains. .35 grains minus 10 per cent size on warp equals .315 grains. 22x7,000 equals 154,000 divided by .315 equals 48,888 divided by 36 equals 1,357 divid- ed by 840 equals l-16s cotton. 110 pieces blue warp yarn x i/^ inch long equals 55 inches equals .9 grains. .9 grains minus 10 per cent size on warp equals .81 grains. 55x7,000 equals 385,000 divided by .81 equals 475,308 divided by 36 equals 13,203 di- vided by 840 equals 15.71 or l-16s cot- ton. 15 pieces blue filling yam x 2 anclhee long equals 30 inches equals .45 grains. 30x7,000 equals 210,000 divided by .45 equals 466,666 divided by 36 equals 12,- 962.8 divided by 840 equals 15.43 or 1- 16s cotton. CONSTRUCTION. Reed, 700, 4 ecds per dent; 28^4 inches in reed including selvedge. 532 plus 10 equals 542 splits or 2,168 ends; l-16s cotton warp yam. 38 picks per inch; 1-1 6s blue cotton filling yam. 10 per ceut size on warp; 5^ per cent contraction in width in weav- ing. 8 per cent take-up in length of warp in weaving. Finish equals sprinkle and press equals 27 inches finished width. Plain weave^ warp drawn in on 4 harnesses. DB3B"BC« DoaaDDaa ■CBDBCH3 aannaaoD DBOBGHuB Daaaaaaa ■□■3«cb:3 S aaacaaan DHGBCjBCB 3 DCBBCZDaa ■CBDaoau ■s BBczaaca DBGiDaca £ ccaaacaa ■aauBcaa Weave J- BBDcaaan DonanDDa S Donnnnaa naanDDaa 5 DnnnanDD DannDaan anaaanaa Drawing- in Draft .a □Daaanca 5 BDQDDaca ^ Drawing-in Draft anaannaa 1 DnnCBBBB mmanumaa Reed Plan ".■!5?gn°° WARP PATTERN. 8 blue. 2 white. 2 blue. 2 white. 14 ends per pattern. 2,128 ends in warp divided by 14 equals 152 repeats in pattern. 10 blue ends per pattern x 152 equals 1,520 plus 40 ends blue selvedge equals 1,560 ends, l-16s blue warp j'am. 4 white ends per pattern x 152 equals 608 ends, l-16s white warp yam. 1,560 ends, l-16s blue warp yam plus 8 per cent take-up equals 1,695 yards equaJs 2.017 ounces. 608 ends, l-16s white warp yam plus 8 per cent take- up equals 660 yards equals .785 ounces. 38 picks, 1-16S blue filling yarn x 28^^ inches equals 1,083 yards equals 1.265 ounces; total 4.067 ounces. 4.067 ounces per yard, 27 Inches wide finished. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The mills which make the counts of yarn required for cheviots belong to the second division, given in a previous article. This is one of the coarser G8 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. yarns made in this division anid is man- ufactured firom stock of about 1 inoh in staple. The mixings should be as large as possible and are generally done by hand, although this division of milLs is generally equipped -with a bale breaker. Of coursie, if 'the bale breaker is not too hard pushed or is stopped lOn account of all ithe other bins of better grades of cotton being full, then the raw s'tock for .this class of goods will be run thirough the bale breaker. The bale breaker is capable of handling 80,000 to 90,000 pounds per week and requires about 2 iron horse power to drive it. IF FLOOR SPACE IS AVAILABLE two mixing biins should be used in- stead of one for reasons before stated. The cotton, after being dried out, should be run through two processes of picking and an opener. Keep the hopper of the opener as near full as possible to make an even lap at the front. Keep the pinroller of the opener clear of all cotton, so that it may be able to do its duty. On some makes this roller i_s a great deal of trouble, which is ca7used by the cotton adher- ing to it and winding around it until it does not strike the cotton from the lifting apron properly. This is espe- ciaUy true when sliver waste (fl-om all machines which make sliver) is mixed in with the raw stock at the bins (as is customary). The speed of the oipener beater for this class of cot- ton should be 1,100 revolutions per minute. The speed of the breaker beater should not exceed 1,500 revo- lutions per minute. THE WEIGHT OF THE LAP at the front should he about 40 pounds or 16 ounces to the yard of lap. Care should be taken that the drafts on both the breaker and finisher pickers are regulated to the best advautage so as to obtain a smooth, firm, even lap at the front. To do this the draft is directed so that the cotton, after being acted iipon by the beater, is blown on the top cage. The laps made at the breaker are put up at the back of the flndsher picker and doubled 4 into 1. The speed of the finisher picker beater should be 1,450 revolutions per minute, which gives this grade anid staple of cotton passing by it abiout 42 beats to the inch. The weight of the total lap at the front should be about 39 pounds, which gives what is known as a 14i^- ounoe (to the yard) lap. OILING. Take cave to oil all rapidly moving parts of pthe pickers at regular and fre- quent intervals and keep all fly from oolleoting under these machines. See that the pickers are properly cleaning the cotton, anid don't make the card do the picker's work. The laps from the finisher picker are put up at the back of the card, ithe draft of which (for this class of goods) should not exceed 100. The wire filleit used should lalso be. not too coarse. Always keep an eye on the settings ^and watch the fiat waste, because from the appearance of this vs^ste we are able to tell whether the cotton is being properly carded oi not. THE SLIVER should weigh about 65 grams per yard and the production should be around 900 pounds per week of 60 hours. Keep card wire sharp. The sliver is next run through 3 processes of draw- ing, the dioubling being 6 into 1. The weight of the finisher drawing should be about 70 grains. The slubber rov- ing should be about .50 hank and there should be two processes of fiy framee. The roving at the first intermediate should be 1.50 'and at the second ei- ther 4 or 4.50, according to whether warp or filling yarn is to be made from it, the fine hank being made into 22s filling yam and the coarser hank roving being made into 16s warp yam. The yam for this class of goods is spun on A RING SPINNING FRAME. the particulars of which are as fol- lows: For warp frame spinning 16s US'© McMullen, Whitin or Draper No. 4 spindle; gauge of frame 2% inches; diameter of ring, 2 inches; length odf traverse, 7 inches; speed of spindle, 9,400 revolutions per minute; for fill- ing frame making 22s, spindle as above ^ except No. 2 Draper; gauge of spindle, * 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 6% inches; speed of spindle, 7,400 revolutions pet minuite. Dyeing Particulars. Following are good formulas for th€ colors used in dyeing cheviot shirt- lings : LIGHT GREEN. 2 per cent im medial yellow D; 4 per cent immedial indone 3B; 5 per cent cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent Glau- ber's; 3 per cent soda. ORANGE. 4 per cent immedial orange C; 4 per A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 69 cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda; of the cloth is usually woven with a 30 per cent Glauber's. plain weave, L-^ . DARK BLUE. 3 per oeat immedial indone 3 B; 3 per cent immedial indone R; 2 per cent immedial indone B; 11 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda; 30 per cent Glauber's. DARK BROWN. 2 per cent thion black B ; 8 per cent thdon brown G; 10 per cent sodium sul- phide; 3 per cent soda; 30 per cent Glauber's. SLATE. 2 per cent thion black B; 2 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per cent soda; 20 per cent Glauber's. RED. 5 per cent benzo scarlet 4 BS; 3 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glau- ber's. YELLOW. 1 per cent chloramine yellow M; 3 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- ber's. SALMON. V2 per cent benzo fast orange S; 2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- ber's. OLIVE. 5 per cent pj-rogene olive N; 5 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda; 30 per cent Glauber's. BLACK. 15 per cent katigen black S W; 15 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda; 30 per cent Glauber's. After dyeing, all of the colors men- tioned must be w^ell rinsed with three waters. A light soaping at the boil must then be given, followed by an- other rinsing. The colors will be fast to washing and will not bleed into each other. NOVELTY DRESS GOODS, Novelty dress goods is a light-weight single cloth fabric, made from single and two-ply cotton yams in both warp and filling, and is woven in large and small plaids, also solid colors. The distinct feature of this fabric is the prominence given the heavy yarns, which are always woven -with a fancy weave in such a manner as to form an all-over effect in imitation of a jacquard pattern. The ground or body In the better grades of novelty dress goods, merino and silkoline yams are often used. In malving this class of goods it is sometimes necessary to use two beams in weaving, as the differ- ence of take-up in the ground and fancy yarns will not permit of one beam be- ing used. Novelty dress goods are made to weigh from 3 to 5 ounces per yard; generally l-20s to l-30s cotton ground warp and filling yarns, and 2-20s to 2-40s, and 1-Ss to l-12s yarns sre used to produce overplaided or novelty weave effects. This fabric is made in all dress goods colors and goods patterns pro- duced hy using dark green, brown. DnDBBGDDCaCHDB DDGaDBBDanBDBD aGaDDDQBBBnBDB Desiga nanDDDDCDDDDDB □nanaarDDDDDBn UaaDDDDDDDDBna nnnDnanDDDBDDn DDDDCDnnBGaDDa nDDDODDBnBDnDa □DDDaDBDnnnDoa naDnDBDDDnaDDa DGnDBDDDnnDDDD nnDBDDnnDaDDna r.BDDa DoannDDD ■DBDonDGDnDnnn Drawinc-io Draft □□BBOaBBDaBBDa ■flDDBBaDBBaaBB BDaBDBGBBBBD dbbdbgbdbbbd bggbgbgbbbbd gbbdbgbgbbgb bgdbgbgbbbgb gbbgbgbgbdbb bu3bgb::bbdbb gbbdb::bddbbb BG::B::BL:aDBBa GBBGBZBGGBBB BBaGZGrCBnBG GDBBGDDCGBCB DGGGBBDaBGBn Li_ui i_L> hi,fcLB Cbam Dratt dark or cherry red, navy blue, etc., for ground color and crossing these with black. Cotton novelty goods can be woven in any power loom having a box mo- tion and dO'bby or head motion at- tached. Mutual or Fairmount 4x1 box looms, having either Ingraham, Old- ham or Stafford top, are all right for this line. To finish these goods, they are meas- ured, then brushed and run through a steam box to liven the colors, after which they are rolled and pressed, ready to pack and ship. CONSTRUCTION. 27 inches finished. 4 square inches equals 5.7 gra;ins. 27 x3G eq-ials 972x5.7 equals 5,504.4 divid- ed by 4 equals 1,385 divided by 437.5 equals 3.165 ounces per yard. 20 pieces black warp yam x 2 inches equals 40 inches equals 1 grain. 40x 70 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 7,000 equals 280,000 divided by 1 equals 280,000 divided by 36 equals 7,777 di- vided by 840 equals 2-20 black warp. 38 pieces brown warp yarn x 2 inches equals 76 inches equals .92 grains. Ttl x7,000 equals 532,000 divided by .92 equals 578,260 divided by 36 equals 16,- 062 divided by 840 equals 1-20 brown warp. 12 pieces white warp yarn x 2 inches equals 24 inches equals .27 grains. 27x 7.000 equals ICS.OOi; divided by .27 equals 622,222 divided by 36 equals 17,- 284 divided by 840 equals 1-20 white warp. 24 pieces black filling yarn x 3 inches equals 72 inches equals 1.45 grains. 72x7,000 equals 504,000 divided by l.-io equals 347,586.2 divided by 36 equals 9,655.17 divided by 840 equals 1-12 black filling. 17 pieces brown filling yarn x 3 inches equals 51 inches equals .5 grains. 51x7,000 equals 357,000 divided by .5 equals 7,140,000 divided by 36 equals 198,333 divided by 840 equals 1-21 brown. 12 pieces white filling yarn x 3 inches equals 36 inches equals. 35 grains. 36x7,000 equals 252,000 divided by .35 equals 7,200,000 divided by 36 equals 200,000 divided by 840 equals 1-24 whfte filling. 50 ends per inch finished and 48 picks per inch finished equals 44 ends per inch in reed and 43 picks per inch in loom. 10 per cent take-up on white and brown warp, 2 per cent on black warp. WARP PATTERN. equals white or 185.14 yards 1-24 equals .1469 ounces. Total 3.1294. 3.1294 ounces finished, 27 incfhes wide. 4 BrowTi"^ 2 White 4 Brown 4 Black J I- Fining same. 32 ends white selvedge. Reed 800 — 2 ends per dent. 301^ inches in reed including sel- vedge. 95 repeats of pattern plus 4 ends. 1,334 ends plus 32 ends selvedge. 8 brown per pat. x 95 patterns equals 760 plus 4 equals 764 plus 10 per cent take- up equals 848.88 yards 1-20 equals .8084 ounces. 4 black per pat. x 95 pat- terns equals 380 plus 10 per cent take- up equals 400.00 yards 2-20 equals .7619 ounces. 2 white per pat. x 95 patterns equals 190 plus 10 per cent take-up equals 211.11 yards 1-20 equals .2010 ounces. 32 white selvedge plus 15 per cent take-up equals 37.64 yards 1-20 equals .0358 ounces. Total warp weight, 1.8071 ounces. 8-14 of filling equals brown or 740.56 yards 1-24 equals .5877 ounces. 4-14 of filling equals black or 370.28 yards 1-12 equals .5877 ounces. 2-14 of filling Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yarns for novelty dress goods would probably be made in mills of the second division. For this class of goods three or more different counts of yarns are generally used, the counts varying from 4s to 40s, the medium yarn being from 20s to 30s. For the cloth under description we will con- sider that the yarns used are as fol- lows: 8s, to produce one effect and 2-20s another, both of these yarns be- ing used on the face of the cloth, and l-oOs for the ground warp and filling yarns. In some mills it is the custom to make- all these counts of yarns from one staple and grade of cotton to save time and to reduce the number of mix- ings in order that the cotton may pass up to a certain point on the same ma- chines, the only difference being that the finer yarns are run through one more process of fly frames. While this undoubtedly saves time and ma- chines and may be done when the counts of yam used in the cloth do not vary a great deal, still it is gener- ally the case to have two or even three different mixtures, one for the very coarse, one for the medium and one for the fine yarns. In this lesson we will consider that there are TWO MIXINGS, or in othe" words, two grades and staples of raw stock used, one for the 8s and another mixing for the 20s to 30s yam. For 8s yarn the staple of the raw stock should be from % to 1 inch in length and for the finer counts, cotton of from 1% tol3-16incli staple may be used. The %-inch stock would proibably be mixed by hand, i. e., taken from the bale and pulled into small bunches and spread in the mix- ing bin by the help. In this mixture all good waste of the same length '■ staple is used, the roving v/aste being treated, as previously mentioned; sometimes, but not often, comber waste is used, but a large percentage should not be used. FOR THE FINER COUNTS the raw stock would be run through a bale breaker or, if no bale breaker was in the mill equipment, then the cotton would be mixed by hand the same as cotton for the coarser counts except that no comber waste would be used. Two processes of picking and an opener would be used with both proc- esses. All the points in connection A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 71 with the opener given in former ar- ticles should be carefully observed; the speed of the fan of the breaker should be about 1,500 revolutions per minute for both stocks and the weight of the laps 40 pounds or 16 ounces to the yard. The speed of the fan at the finisher picker should be a little less than at the breaker pickerand the speed of the fan about 1,100 revolutions per minute. This gives the cotton passing under the action of the beater about 42 beats or blows per inch. The weight of the lap of the %-inch stock should be 39 pounds or 14 ounces to the yard, and for the finer counts of yarn, 35 pounds or 12y2 ounces to the yard. The DRAFT OF THE CARD for the coarser count should not exceed 100 and for the finer count should not be less than 100. The same size of wire fillet may be used for both grades or, generally speaking, No. 33 wire fillet for cylinder and No. 34 wire fillet for doffer and top flats. 'j.he main points of difference v,-ould be in the setting of the card for the dif- ferent stocks, the longer staple of cot- ton requiring the closer settings, the production for the %-inch stock being 900 pounds and for the 1 %-inch stock from 750 to 800 pounds per week of 60 hours. The doffer of the card should be as large as possible in both cases, either 26 or 27 inch diameter. Keep THE CARD WIRE sharp and be sure that the wire on the flats is of uniform length, because, if this is not the case, had work is bound to result on account of the fact that even settings of the flats with the cyl- inder cannot be obtained. The weight per yard of the sliver would be the same in both cottons or 65 grains per yard. The %-inch stock would be put through two processes of drawing and the longer staple three processes, doubled 6 into 1 in both cases. The weight of the sliver at the finisher drawing would be the saime. or (2 grains per yard. The same hank rov- ing would be made at the slubber, or .55 hank, although the SETTINGS OF THE ROLLS of both of the last named processes would be different. Only one process of drawing would be used on the '/s- inch stock and at the fly frame it would be made into 1 hank roving and from here passed to the spinning room. For the 1 %-inch stock two processes would be used. At the first interme- diate the slubber roving would be made into 2 hank roving and at the second the roving for 20s count yarn would be made into 4 hank and for the 30s count would be made into 6 hank. The roving would then be taken to THE SPINNING ROOM, ■ftf^here the required count would be spun. The particulars for a warp frame making 20s yarn have been giv- en in a previous lesson; for a warp frame making 8s, the following par- ticulars may be used; any high-grade spindle, length of traverse, 7 inch, gauge of spindle, 3% inches, diameter of ring, 2% inches, speed of spindle, 8,100 revolutions per minute. For a warp frame making 30s use gauge of spindle, 2% inches, diameter of ring, 1% inches, length of traverse, 6 inches, speed of spindle, 9,800 revolutions per minute. The yarn is then spooled and warped and dyed. For some of the ef- fects produced in this class of goods two yarns of different colors are twist- ed together; for this a machine known as a twister is used, one thread of each color being twisted together. Dyeing Particulars. DARK GREEN. 4 per cent tetrazo brilliant green J; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sai soda. RED. 4 per cent tetrazo fast red 4 B; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soaa. LIGHT SKY BLUE. 1 per cent tetrazo blue, 6 B new; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda* WINE. 3 per cent tetrazo corinth; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. DARK BLUE. 3 per cent tetrazo blue B X; 30 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. DARK BROWN. 3 per cent tetrazo dark brown; 1^ per cent tetrazo black brown; 30 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. LILAC. 2 per cent tetrazo chlorine lilac ii; 2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- ber's. LIGHT SLATE. % per cent tetrazo black N; ^ per cent tetrazo brilliant blue B B; 2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent Glauber's. DARK SLATE. 1% per cent tetrazo black N; % per cent tetrazo blue 3 B; 2 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glauber's. OLIVE. 14 per cent diamine fast yellow B; 72 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 3 per cent diamine bronze G; 2 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glauber's. BLACK. 5 per cent tetrazo black N; 3 per cent Sal soda; 30 per cent Glauber's. NAVY BLUE. 3 per cent tetrazo blue B X; % per cent tetrazo blue 4 R; 3 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glauber's. Tbe above colors are for first batlis, for a standing bath. One-third of the color can be taken away from these amounts. After dyeing, yam must be well rinsed in water. DRILL. Cotton drill is a medium weight, single cloth, weighing from 4 to 6 ounces and composed of coarse all-cot- ton yarns, warp and filling. It is al- ways made with a small uneven sided twill weave, generally — j-(warp ef- fect) twill weave. Drill is sometimes made from yams in the gray and afterwards dyed in the piece, or in solid warp color ef- fects, such as indigo blue and dark brown, white filling being used in each instance. It can be woven in any single box roller loom, such as Draper, Lowell, Lewiston, Colvin, Mason, or Kilburn & Lincoln, and is usually drawn in and woven on cotton harness, as these are light in weight and wear better than wire heddles for this style of cotton goods. THE WARP is beamed on the slaiSher, the warp proper being divided into a certain number of sections, in accordance with the number of ends to 'be used in the drill warp. These sections are beamed on the warp mill, the yarn being run on to the beam from the spools in the creel rack. The several section beams, when completed in the warp mill, are assembled in the beam rack at the end of the slasher and the yarn from each beam is run through the size tub and over the drying cylinder of the slash- er at the same time, on to the slash- er beam, thus making a complete warp, the sizing and beaming being done at one operation. Slasher warps do not have a lease in them, the yarn being kept nearly straight in place by the use of a slash- er comb, which is, in fact, a shallow reed having one open side. The comb is pressed through the threads, while they are spread taut in the slasher frame and a wooden cap is then fast- ened upon the open side of the slasher comb, thereby holding the yarn in place for the operation of drawing in. The drawing in is performed by girls, without the aid of a bander in, as is the case when pattern warps are drawn in from a lease. The drawer in for drill, ises a three- bladed hook (a blade for each harness) and the harnesses or heddles are hung uj)on a rack immediately in front of the beamed warp. The drawer in, if experienced, will pick out three hed- dles and three ends at one time, and continue to do so until the total warp ends are threaded through the har- nesses or heddles. To finish colored drill, the goods are taken from the loom and run through the brusher, to remove all lint and waste threads, after which they are put through the size tubs and then dry pressed. CONSTRUCTION. 4 square inches equals 9.95 grains. 30x36 equals 1,080x9.95 equals 10,746 divided by 4 equals 2,686.5 divided by 437.5 equals 6.14 ounces per yard fin- ished. 30 pieces blue warp x 2i^ equals 75 inches equals 1.9 grains. 75x7,000 equals 525,000 divided by 1.9 equals 276,315.8 divided by 36 equals 7,675.43 divided by 840 equals 1-lOs cotton. 30 pieces white filling x iy2 equals 45 inches equals .55 grains. 45x7,000 equals 315,000 divided by .55 equals 572,727 divided by 36 equals 15,909 divided by 840 equals l-18s cotton. 66 ends per inch finished and 48 picks per inch finished equal 63 ends per inch loom and 44 picks per inch loom. 10 per cent take up in weaving minus 6% per cent contraction in reed. 16 ends selvedge. 30 inches finished equals 32 inches in — twill weave. 750 reed minusi 3 ends per dent. Finish equals size and dry press. 66x30 equals 1,980 plus 16 equals 1,- 996 plus 10 per cent equals 2,218 yards 1-lOs cotton warp equals 4.224 ounces. 48 picks x 30 equals 1,440 yards, l-18s cotton filling equals 1.523 ounces. 4.224 ounces warp. 1.523 ounces filling. 5.747 ounces loom weight. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The machinery used to make the counts of yarns for the kind of Si^iUHi""'^"^ A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 73 cloth under description would be found in mills of the first and perhaps of the second division, as given in a previous lesson. As the yarns are made from a short staple, low-grade cotton, the mixing will probably be done by hand; i. e., the bales of cotton would be opened at the mixing bia and the cotton separated into small parts and piled up in the bin until it was full. The good waste from cards and drawing frames would also be mixed in with the raw stock, and in the cheaper grades of drill comber waste is sometimes used in small quantities. The same length of staple may be used for both warp and filling yarns and they may be run through the same machineis up to the fly frames, and here THE ONLY DIFFERENCE is that the roving to make the filling yarn is run through one more process of fly frames than the warp yarn. The mixing isi taken from the bins and thrown into the hopper of the opener and this hopper is always kept full. Keep the pin beater free from cotton, so that an even sheet of cotton may be ■DaBDBBDBHDBan DBBDBBDBBDBBaB ■BDBBDBBDBBDBB BnBBDBBDBBnBBa DBBOaBDBBGBBDB BBDBBaBBDBBQBB BDBBaBBDBBDBBa □BBDBBDBBDBBDB BBDBBDBBDBBDBB ■OBBaBBDBBDBBD DBBGBBDBBDBBQB BBDBBDBNDBBDBB BQBBaBBDBBaBBD Weave DDBnnBnDBDOBDDB nBDnBDDBQDBDDBD BacBnDBDDBaaBDa Drawing-iti Draft □noBBBPnoBBBnoa BBBaODBBBDaDBBB Eeed Plan 6.140 ounces finished. 5.747 ounces loom. .393 ounces = sizing in finishing. About 6>i per cent of size. passed up to the beater, the speed of which should be about 1,050 revolu- tions per minute. In modern mills this opener is built in connection with the breaker picker, and the cotton, after passing the beater, is thrown on to a moving lattice and is brought to the feed rolls of the breaker picker, which in turn condenses it and passes the beater which should have a speed of 1,500 revolutions per minute. See that the draught of this picker and also the finisher picker is so directed that the cotton, after passing the beater, will be blown upon the top of the pair of cages, as this will HELP TO MAKE AN EVEN LAP at the front end. The weight of the lap at the front end of the breaker should be about 40 pounds or about 16 ounces to the yard. The laps are then put up at the finisher ipicker and doubled four into one. The speed of tiiis beater should be 1,450 revolutions per minute and the weight of the finished lap about 39 pounds or 14 ounces to the yard. The cotton re- ceives about 42 beats to the inch at this machine. The draft of this ma- chine is very small and very rarely ex- ceeds 3. All heavy and quickly mov- ing parts should be oiled frequently and keep the room clean. The laps are then put up at the card. The draft of this- machine should not ex- ceed 100 for this class of goods. THE SETTINGS S'hould be wide, because it is the ob- ject to get off as many pounds as pos- sible for this class of goods. Keep the wire sharp by frequent grindings. The speed of the licker-in should be about 300 revolutions per minute. The speed of the top flats should be one comiplete revolution In 40 minutes and the speed of the doffer from 13i^ to 14 revolutions per minute. The di- ameter of the doffer should be as large as poosible, say 26 or 27 inches. The production should be about 800 pounds for a week of 60 hours. THE SLIVER should weigh about 65 grains to the yard. The sliver is run through three processes of drawings, the weight at the finisher drawing being 70 grains. The doublings at the different pro- cesses of drawing should be 6 into 1 and the drafts should not exceed 6. The speed of the front roller should be 400 revolutions per minute. The slubber is the next process, and here the sliver should be made into a ,50 bank roving. The warp yarn is then put through one more process of fly frame and made into 1.25 to 1.50 hank roving and from here passed to the spinning room. The filling yam is put through one more process and is made into 2.50 hank roving and then passed on to the spinning room. THE SPINNING FRAME then draws the roving into the re- quired hank by. having the correct draft gear put on. Good sipecifications for both the warp and filling frames arc as follows: for warp frame, for spinning 10s yarn> gauge of spindle, tiaree inches: diameter of ring, two 74 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. inches; length of traverse, 7 inches; speed of spindle 8,600 revolutions per minute; twist per inch, 15.02; for fill- ing frame spinning 18s yarn, gauge of spindle, 2% inches; diameter of ring, lYz inches; speed of spindle, 7,200 rev- olutions per minute; length of trav- erse, QVz inches; twist per inch, 13.79. The "warp yarn is then spooled, warped and run through a slasher. Dyeing Particulars. Drills are yarn dyed, blue and brown, indigo or sulphur blues, cutch or sulphur browns. PYROGBNE INDIGO BLUE. 10 per cent color; 20 per cent sul- phide sodium; 8 per cent soda ash; 35 per cent salt; 2 per cent mineral oil, 1 hour at 200 degrees F. Aftertreated with 11^ per cent biohrome; 1^ per cent sulphate copper; 3 per cent acetic acid, 9 degrees Tw. Well rinsed and soaped. A soap made of 2 per cent paraffin wax; 2 per cent glue; 2 per cent dextrine is consid- ered very suitable. Turn for 15 min- utes at 120 degrees F. Squeeze and dry. BROWN. 5 per cent immedial cutch O; 1 per cent immedial dark brown A; 3 per cent immedial brown B; 8 per cent sul- phide sodium; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. Turn at 200 degrees F. for one hour, rinse and aftertreat: 1% per cent bichrome; l^/^ per cent sulphate copper; 3 per cent acetic acid, 9 degrees Tw.; 30 minutes at 200 degrees F. Rinse, and soap with a weak solution at boil. A variety of shades are piece dyed on drills and used for various pur- poses, where a very S'trong cloth is re- quired. SLATE. 3 per cent thion black B; 3 per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent common salt. Rinse well and soap. BLACK. 15 per cent thion black G; 15 per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda aah; 30 per cent common salt. Rinse w«ll and soap. BUFF. 1 per cent thion brown G; ^4 per cent thion yellow R; 2 per cent sul- phide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent common salt. Rinse well and soap. OLIVE. 4 per cent immedial olive B; % per cent immedial black N G; % per cent immedial yellow D; 5 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. Rinse well and soap. SKY BLUE. 3 per cent immedial sky blue pow- der; 3 per cent sodium sulphate; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. Rinse well and soap. GREEN. 10 per cent katigen green 2 B; 10 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt; rinse well and soap. DARK BOTTLE GREEN. 10 per cent immedial dark green B; 2 per cent immedial yellow D; % per cent immedial black N G; 13 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. Rinse well and soap. RED. 5 per cent diamine fast red; 3 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. Rinse and aftertreat with 1 per cent fluoride chrome. FLANNELETTE , Flannelette is a narrow, light-weigtit fabric composed of all cotton yarns, from l-30s to l-14s in the warp and fill- ing, the filling being soft spun to per- mit of thie raising of a very slight nap on the back of the goods. The cloth is woven with bleached yarn (warp and filling), the color ef- feiots beiing afterwards printed upon the face of the goods by the printing maclhine. Flannelette is made with simple one or two colored stripe patterns, either black and white, or indigo blue and white, and in elaborate all-over floral designs in imitation of jacquard pat- terns, the ground colors being of a dark tone, and the figure of either harmonious or contrasting combina- tions of color. The finished fabric is sold by the retailer at 8 to 10 cents per yajrd, 27 inches wide, and is used very extensively in the manufacture A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 75 of ladies' -wrappers, kimonos, etc., for house wear, and which, when soilea, can be thrown into the family wash and cleaned. THE PRINTING OPERATION is performed by an automatic machino, which consists of a series of rollers or drums, over which the cloth is passed to hold it taut, and smooth all wrin- kles so that the goods present an even surface to the printing roll. Upon this roller the design or pat- tern is engraved, and the liquid color being fed upon it as it revolves, the cloth passes over the surface, and re- tains an exact impression of the de- sign (in colors) that has been en- graved upon the roller. Flannelette can be woven in any single box roller loom, such as Drap- er, Lowell, Lewiston, etc., and the fin- ish means taking from the loom and DDBHaaBB DaBGaiBD mmaammna ■oDBBaaB QGBBaOBB DBBDOBBD BBDOBBUD BGGBBDDB Desipj □nnBDDDB DDBD'^rBD DBaDDBDD BDnnBDan DrawiDg-iQ Draft nnBBDDBB BBDDBBQC Reed Plan DDBB DBBQ BBDD BDDB DDBB DBBD BBDD BODB U&meas Cham brushing off, to remove loose threads, then running through the napper to produce a nap on the back of the goods, after which the fabric is print- ed. CONSTRUCTION. 27 inches finished. 4 square inches equals 4.85 grains. 27X.36 equals 972x4.85 equals 5,714.20 divided by 4 equals 1,428.55 divided by 437.5 equals 3.034 ounces per yard, 27 inches wide. 20 pieces white warp x 2% equals 50 inches equals .35 grains. 50x7,000 equals 350,000 divided by .35 equals 1,- 000,000 divide by 840 equals l-30s cot- ton warp. 16 pieces white filling x 2 equals ?2 Inches equals .3 grains. 32x7,000 equals 224,000 divided by .3 equals 746,- 666 divided by 840 equals 1-2 Is cotton filling. Reed 1,460 --29 1-3 inches— 2 ends per dent; 16 ends selvedge, 10 per cent take-up; 2,376 ends, l-30s white cotton warp (ex. of selvedge); 59 picks, l-24s white cotton filling (soft spun); —^ 458 tv.-ill weave (warp effect on face); fin- ish equals very light nap on the back of the fabric or filling effect. 88 ends per inch finished and ci picks per inch finished equals 81 ends in reed and 59 picks in loom. 88x27 equals 2,376 plus 16 equals 2.392 ends plus 10 per cent take-up equals 2,658 yards l-30s warp yarn equals 1.687 ounces. 64 picks x 27 equals 1,728 yards l-24s filling equals 1,371 ounces. Total 3,058 ounces. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The processes of machinery for mak- ing the required count of yarns for flannelette may be found in either the better class of the first division or in the second division of mills, as given in a previous lesson. A medium to low grade of cotton of from % to IVs inch staple may be used, according to the grade or mill in v/hich the flannel- ette is made. Generally speaking, a cotton of %-iuch staple is used. In the first division of mills the mixing would be done by hand, but in the second division the equipment would probably include a bale breaker, and unless the mixing was pressed for the catton would be run through this ma- chine, and as this machine will take care of 80,000 pounds of cotton there is not much danger of it being over- worked. THE MIXING should be as large as possible and in the lower grades of flannelette the mixing would include a small percent- age of comber waste, as well as the good sliver waste from the cards, drawing frames and comber rooms (if equipment contains same). The better grades of flannelette would not use waste. Roving waste would be used in both mixings, but this stock would not be mixed until the finisher picker process, and here the waste should not be mixed in a grea,ter proportion than 1 to 4. In the modern equipments of mirlls generally only two processes of picking, with an opener, are used; but as there are a great many mills, which use three processes of picking, the particulars will be given for THREE PROCESSES OF PICKING. For this class of goods the rigid type of beater is used on all picking ma- chines. Keep the hopper of the opener nore than half full to help obtain an even lap. The speed of the beater of 76 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. the opener should be about 1.000 revo- lutions per minute. This machine ia gemerally used in connection with the breaker picker, and after the cotton has pass«id the beater, it is passed under a pair of wooden rollers onto an endless lattice which carries it to the feed rolls of the breaker picker. The speed of the beater of this machine should be about 1,500 revolutions per minute and the weight of the laps at the front about 40 pounds or about 16 ounces to the yard. THE DOUBLINGS of the intermediartie picker should be four into one and the speed of this beater should be the same as the fin- isher picker, or 1,450 revolutions per minute. The speed of the fan at this machine should be about 1,050 revolu- tions per minute. The speed of the driving shafts on this and on the fin- isher picker should be about 375 rev- olutions per minute. The weight of the lap at the front should be a little less than sut the breaker, or about 37 pounds or a 12-ounce lap. The same particulars may be used for the finish- er picker with the following excep- tions: Speied of fan, 1,100 revolutions per minute and the weight of the lap ahout 39 pounds or about a 14-ounce lap. These particulars will answer for bo'th warp and filling. The lap is put up at the card which should have a draft of about 100. Set the doffer to a 5-gauge and use as large a doffer as possible, either a 26 or 27 inch. The PRODUCTION OF A CARD for this class of Avork should be about 800 pounds, with a 65-grain sliver, for a week of 60 hours. On this class of goods no combing is used, but a three- process drawing. See that the proper ■weights are attached to the top rolls. The doublings are generally six into one, although eight into one are used in some mills. Don't draw more than you double. The draft should be about 5 at each process; speed of front rolls 400 revolutions per minute. Watch your settings of the top rolls at these machines. The hank roving made at the slubber should be about .55. Only one process of fly frames is used for warp, the hank roving being made about 2. Use square root of hank x 1.1 for twist. For the filling, two-proc- cess of fly frame is used: the hank roving being 2 at the first interme- diate and 3.75 to 4.00 hank at the 2d iiitGTmediate. 1^^^ sauare root of hank X 1.2 for twist. The roving is now car- ried to THE SPINNING ROOM where it is made into the required count of yarn. For 14s warp yarn use the following particulars for spinning frame: Size of spindle, any first class; gauge of spindle, 3 inches; diameiter of ring, 2% inches; length of traverse, 7 inches. For this class of goods a soft twist is used for the warp yam, as little as possible being put in, but be sure and put in enough so that the yarn will not break back in the loom. For a filling frame for 30s yarn use as follows: Gauge of spindles, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1^ inches, length of traverse, 6'/^ inches. The warp yarn is then spooled, warped and put through the slasher. Dyeing Particulars. SKY BLUE. Vz per cent eboli blue 6 B; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. PINK. 1^ per cent dioxyrubine G; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. YELLOW. y2 per cent fast cotton yellow C, ex- tra; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. SCARLET. 3 per cent diamine scarlet B; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. WINE. 4 per cent diamine Bordeaux B; 30' per ceait Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. RED. 4 per cent diamine fast red F; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. CINNAMON BROWN. 3 per cent diamine brown 3 G; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. BLACK. 15 per cent pyrogene black B; 20 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 40 per cent Glauber's. DARK BROWN. 4 per cen!, chrysophenine; 2 per cent benzo fast black; 2% per cent benzo fast red L; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. MYRTLE GREEN. 3 per cent benzo green G G;- % per cent chrysopLenine; Yz per cent benzo fast black; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. . SLATE. 1 per cent benzo fast black; Yz per A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 77 cent benzo fast blue B N; % per cemt benzo fast red L; 30 per cent Glaub- er's; 3 per cent sal soda. HELIOTROPE. 2 per cent tetrazo lilac B; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. NAVY BLUE. 5 per cent tetrazo indigo blue C; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. ORANGE. 3 per cent tetrazo chlorine orange R; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. LEMON YELLOW. 11/2 per cent tetrazo lemon yellow; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. ♦-•-♦ DENl. Denim is a strong, medium-welgH't, single-cloth fabric, weighing from 4^ to 5 ounces per yard and composed ol single cotton yarn in warp and filling. It is usually made with a small, un- even-sided twill weave, such as - — 45° twill, and in sodid color warp ef- fects, generally indigo blue or dark brown, and white filling. White sel- vedge is used in all grades. A grade known as covert cloth is made of twist yarn in the warp, and dark colored, single filling. The twist yarns are usuallly blue and white and the cloth of a similar texture to that of the regular denim. In effect denim is a stout, twilled fabric, having excellent wearing quali- ties, and is made to sell at 10c. to 15c. per yard, retail. It is used principally in the manufacture of overalls, to be worn by workmen who opeirate ma- chinery, or by those who perform hard, rough labor of any description. Denim can be woven in any singie box roller loom, such as Mason, Lowell, Lewiston, Colvin, etc., the warp being prepared on the slasher, in the same manner as a sheeting warp. It is tnen drawn in on the harness or heddles, m accordance with weave desired. The finish of this fabric is a rather heavy sizing, after which the goods are dried and pressed. Denim is sometimes dyed in the piece, in light shades of tan, blue, etc., and the goods made up into summer outing skirts for ladies' wear. 1 square in. equals 2.6 grains. 27 x 36 equals 972 x 2.6 equals 2,527.2 divided by 1 equals 2,527.2 divided by 437.5 equals 5.77 ounces per yard, 27 Inches wide finisihed. 20 pieces blue warp x 1 inch equals 20 inches equals .5 grains. 20 x 7,000 equals 140,000 divided by .5 equals 2,- 800,000 divided by 36 equals 7,777.7V divided by 840 equals l-9s warp. ■ni ID! ■□ ■□ ■ai DaaaMDaaDBa di aaaaaoaaaaaa aau ; aDaaaaaaaaaa ana , naaDBBDaaaaa naa ' aaaaaDaaaaaa aan aaaaaaaaaaaa mam ' naaaaacaaaaa oaa < aaoaaaaaDaaQ lUI Design DDannaDDaDDa nanaaaDBDDaa BDnaaaaDcauD Drawlnp-in DrafA aaDaaaDDGaaa aaaaaaaaaaaG Keed Plin 15 pieces white filling x 3 inches equals 45 inches equals .65 grains. 4b X 7,000 equals 315,000 divided by .bo equals 484,615 divided by 36 equals 13,- 461.43 divided hy 840 equals l-16s fill- ing. CONSTRUCTION. — ^ twill 45° 68 ends per inch finished and 42 picks per inch finished equals 63 ends in reed and 40 picks in loom. Reed 750 — 29 inches — 3 ends per dent. 10 per cent take-up — 32 ends selvedge. 40 picks, l-16s white cotton filling. 1,836 ends blue yarn and 32 ends white yarn selvedge equals l-9s cotton warp. 1,836 + 32 equals 1,868 + 10 per cent take = 2,076 yards 1-9 warp = 4.39 ozs. 42 picks X 27 inches = 1,134 yards 1-16 filling = 1.35 ozs. 5.74 ozs. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Denim is constructed of yarns that are made in either the first or second divisions of mills as given in a pre- vious lesson. In the second divison O'f mills the raw stock would be run through a bale breaker, as this class of mills would undoubtedly contain this machine in their equipment. In the first division of mills the mixing would be done by hand. When bale breakers are used, it is of great ad- vantage to have a blower in connection with them. This blower is generally placed at the delivery end of the ma- chine and blows the cotton, after it has passed through the bale breaker, throug'h trunking onto an endless lat- tice which deposits it in the mixing bins. A blower is of advantage be- cause it opens the cotton and the cur- rent of air helps to dry it and the cot- ton does not have to dry out in the 78 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. mixing bins as is the case when a blow- er is not used. Mixing is A VERY IMPORTANT PART of the card room and too little atten- tion is generally given to it. It wiii be understood that if the cotton is not properly mixed, this defect cannot be remedied at any subsequent machine. Cotton of the same length of staple should always be used, cotton of the same nature, and where waste is used the percentage should be as small as it is possible to make it. Th9 same mixing may be used for making of both the warp and filling yarns, a medium to low grade being used of a staple length of about one inch (ranging from % to IVs inches, according to the quality of denim being made). A small percentage of comber waste may be used, but is not advisable. The good "sliver waste from the cards and draw- ing frames is mixed with the raw stock and the roving waste is mixed in the manner described- in a previous article. The cotton would be put through two processes of picking and an opener. Keep the hopper of the opener well filled Math cotton so that the lifting apron will always be carrying up a full load of cotton to the pin roller. The SPEED OF THE BEATER of the opener should be about 1,050 revolutions per minute, the speed ot the fan being about 350 revolutions per minute. If porcupine beater is used, the speed should be about 1,150 revolu- tions per minute. The speed of a two- bladed beater of a rigid type of the breaker picker should be about 1,500 revolutions per minute, the speed of the fan being about 100 revolutions less. The total weight of the lap at the head end should be about 40 pounds, or 20 ounces to the yard. The doublings at the finisher picker are 4 into 1 and the speed of the beater (2 bladed rigid type), 1,450 revolutions per minute, which will beat the cotton sheet presented to it about 42 times per inch in length. The weigbt ot tne lap in the front should be as heavy as possible and at the same time not over- work the card. A good weight would be 39 pounds or a 14-ounce lap (for a 38 inch lap). The DRAFT OF THE CARD should not exceed 100 and should oe not less than 90. The sliver should weigti 65 grains per yard and the pro- duction about 850 pounds for a week of 60 hours. Keep your card wire sharp and be sure that your top flats are ground even, because close and ac- curate settings cannot be obtained when the wire on the flats is not of a uniform length. Large doffers should also be used. The sliver would then be put through two processes of drawing frames, the speed of the front roll (1% inches diameter) being 400 revolutions per minute on each set. The drart should not be more than the doublings and the sliver should weigh about (0 grains per j^ard. THE PRODUCTION being about 260 pounds per delivery per day of 10 hours. When metallic rolls are used, the prodi.ction would be con- siderably greater or about 350 under the conditions noted above. Metallic rolls are coming more and more into use, especially on the lower counts ot yarns, and also on a heavy sliver; al- though they can be used on all grades and lengths of staple, they are not gen- erally used, but not through any fault of the rolls, as they are suitable for producing fine work. The slubber draws the sliver into .55 hank and the one-process fiy frames used makes the roving into a 1.75 hank roving. Some- times two different hanks are made at the fly frame, one for the warp and one for the filling yams; where this is the case, the warp yam is made from one hank roving and the filling from 2.00 hank. The particulars for the warp spinning frame for No. 9s are as follows: Front roll, one in. diameter; gauge of frame, 3 in.; diameter of ring, 21/4 in.; length of traverse, 7 in.; for a filling frame making l6s use gauge of frame, 2% in.; diameter of ring, 1% in.; length of traverse, 6^4 in. The warp yarn is then spooled, wari)ed and put through the slasher. Dyeing Particulars. BLUE. 6 per cent katigen indigo B; o per cent katigen indigo 5 G; 12 per cent sul- phide sodium; 4 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt; after treat with 1^/^ per cent bichrome, 2 per cent copper sul- phate and 4 per cent acetic acid. Rinse well and soap. BLACK. 15 per cent immedial black N N; 15 per cent sodium sulphide; 30 per cent Glauber's salt; 4 per cent soda ash. Rinse well and soap. BROWN. 6 per cent thion brown G; 6 per cent thion brown B; 2 per cent Ifliion yel- low R; 14 per cent sulphide sodium; 4 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 79 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt; after treat 3 per cent bichrome, 3 per cent sulphate copper; 5 per cent acetic acid. Rinse well and soap. SLATE. 5 per cent pyrogene black B; 5 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt. Rinse well and soap. DARK GREEN. 10 per cent immedlal green G; ^/^ per cent immedial black N B; 10 per cent sulphide sodium; 4 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. Rinse well and soap. RED. 8 per cent diamine fast red F; 30 per cent Glauber's salt; 3 per cent soda crystals. Rinse and after treat 2 per cent fluoride chrome at 160 degrees P. BOURRETTE. Bourrette is a light weight, single cloth fabric, weighing from 4% to 6 ounces, composed of two-ply cotton warp, and either wool, merino or a combination of cotton and wool shod- dy filling. Both the warp and the fill- ing have an occasional end or pick of fancy bourrette or nub yarn added for effect; hence the name. In appearance bonrrette cloth is a semi-rough-faced woolen fabric, hav- ing small fancy colored lumps on the yarn, scattered throughout the goods in accordance v/ith the effect desired. The cloth when finished is used princi- pally in the manufacture of ladies' fall suitings. THE WEAVE Is usually a — j plain weave.or a mixed twill effect, such as can be produced from the regular — ^ 45 degrees twill, viz.: diamond or entwining twill weaves. These weaves, in connection with certain warp and filling patterns, such as 1 black, 1 fancy twist or 2 black, 2 fancy twist, create very elab- orate styles, as this color arrangement serves to hide the rigid outline of the design, and thus has a tendency to complicate the general appearance of the weave used in the fabric. The fancy effects in twist that can be adapted to this line are made by twisting the following colors together, viz.: Black and white. Black and light blue. Black and light green. Black and old gold. Black and red. Black and lig'M brown. These twist yarns serve the purpose of brightening up the general appear- ance of the goods. Bourrette cloth can be woven in any power loom, excepting those styles DHaDDHnBDaBaDDa DaaBauaaaoBBnaBB BaaaaaDaDaaaaaaa aBaaaaaaaaDaaaDa DaaaaaaaaDoaaaaa DDaaanaaDDaaacaa BoaaaaDaaaaGoaaa BBaGaaGDaBDaaaaa DGBaaDBBODaaDaaB OBaaaaaaaDaBaDaa aaDaaaoaaanaaaDa anaaaaaaaaaDDaaa DnaaanaaGGaaaDBa □BannaaaaDDaaDDa BBDaaBanBHnaaaaa ancBBGDBaaBDDBBa Design ODnannnannaDDnan nDBDDDBnDDDBDGDB □anaDBODBDDDKnnn BDDaBDDCDaaDDBDa Dnwing-iQ Draft DBnanBDanaaaaaDB BaaGacaaaDaDaaaa Reed Plan aananaDB aDBDBDBD DBDaaBDB aaaaaoan aanaDBDa aaaaanaa □anaoaaa ananaaaa Design Dananaaa ■caaaaaa Drawing- in Draft nanaDaoa aaaDacaa Eeed Plan □aaG Doaa aooa aaaa aaa j naaa anna aana Doaa DaaG aaoa aaaa naaa Daaa aaaa ■aaa Harness Chain wherein a single pick of the fancy yarn is introduced in the filling, in which case the KnoAvles 4x4 pick and pick dobby loom is very serviceable. TO FINISH THIS FABRIC, the goods are taken from the loom and measured, after which they are brushed then scoured iu a solution of soap and cold water, then tentered and dried and pressed. The bourrette yarn is made by twist- ing two cotton threads and a worsted thread together, the worsted being al- lowed to deliver more quickly than the cotton threads, at regular intervals. The excess which is delivered is twisted around the cotton threads in the one place, thereby forming a Inmj) on the twisted yarn, as the worsted yarn is run at a varied speed, and is not regularly distributed around the cotton threads. CONSTRUCTION. 4 souare inches equals 7.61 grains. 33x36 equals 1,188 times 7.61 equals 80 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 904,068 divided by 4 equals 2,260.17 . divided by 437.5 equals 5.11 ounces, 33 inches wide from loom. 25 pieces black warp times 2 equals 4G inches equals 1.41 grains. 46x7,000 equals 322,000 divided by 1.41 equals 228,368 divided by 36 equals 6,343.5 divided by 840 equals 2-14s. 22 pieces twist warp times 2% equals 55 inches equals 2 grains. 55x7,000 equals 385,000 divided by 2 equals 178,804 divided by 36 equals 5,2] 6.8 divided by 840 equals 2-12s. 3C pieces black merino filling times 2 equals CO inches equals 3 grains. 60x7.000 equals 420,000 divided by 3 equals 140,000 divided by 36 eouals 3,838 divided by 300 equals l-12s cut. 10 per cent up. Reed, 400 minus 1 end per deni minus 36 inches wide, including' selvedge of 16 ends 2-14s black, 24 picks, 1-12 cut merino equals 75 per cent Wool and 25 per cent cotton. Warp pattern: 1 black equals 2-14s cotton; 1 twist equals 2-12s cotton. 24 picks times 36 equals 864 yards 1-12 merino equals 3.84 ounces. 102 ends black plus 16 equals 203 plus 10 per cent take-up equals 231 yards 2-"J4s equals 6.28 ounces; 102 ends twist plus 10 per cent take-up equals 21o yards 2-12s equal .676 ounces, total, 5.144 ounces per yard loom. Finish — Scour, tenter and steam press, to loom v/idth. Carding and Spinning Particulars. In the class of goods under descrip- tion it will be noticed that there is a very small percentage of cotton con- tained in its make up. If the cotton yarn that this class of goods contains was made in a cotton mill, the follow- ing particulars would be a good foun- dation on which to base the speeds, weight and processes through which the raw stock would have to pass be- fore being turned out into 2-ply 12s or 2-1 4s yarn, as the case may be. This class of yarn may be made in the first division of mills, and the cotton would be hand mixed and put in the bins. The mixing should be allowed to dry out as much as possible before using, and a better plan would be to have two large mixing bins so that when one was in use the other one might be filled and the cotton dried. This is not always done, because most picker rooms are pressed for fioor space. THE RAW STOCK should be put through two processes of picking and an opener. The good waste from pickers, cards and draw- ing frames should be put into the mix- ing bin before running it through the opener. Always keep the hopper of the opener more than half full and gauge your stripping roller so that quite a heavy weight of cotton is passed to the action of the beater. The speod of the beater for the opener should be about 1,000 revolutions per minute, the speed of the fan about 350 revolu- tions per minute. This machine is used in connection with the breaker picker and the speed of the beater (2 bladed rigid type) should be about 1,500 revolutions per minute. The weight of the lap at the front should be about 40 pounds or a 20 ounce lap to the yard. The laps from the break- er picker are put up at the finisher picker and doubled 4 into 1. TTic speed of the beater at this machine should be about 1,450 revolutions per minute, which gives about 42 blows per inch of cotton fed. The WEIGHT OF THE LAP should be about 40 pounds or a 14^ ounce lap. Care should be taken to see that the variation in the total weight of the laps delivered at the front of the finisher picker is not more than three-quarters of a pound from stand- ard weight for raw stock to make goods under description, and the amount of variation for the finer classes of goods should not exceed one-half a pound from sitandard. When laps are found to vary more than above noted, they should be placed at the back of the finisher picker and run over. If a great degree of variation is found, i. e., if the standard is 40 lbs., and laps are delivered which weigh 39i/4, 41. 39, 40%, and so on, it shows that the picker needs adjustment, and on ail makes of machines there are devices to regulate these small variations. The laps are put up at the card and the draft of this machine should not ex- ceed 100. THE WIRE FILLET should be coarser, so as to stand the pressure of the weight and amount of cotton to be passed through. This wire should be kept sharp by fre- quent grindings with the grinding rol- lers. The weight of the sliver should be about 65 grains to the jard. and the production of a card for 60 hours on this class of goods should be not less than 850 pounds. The cotton is put through two processes of drawing. The speed of the front roller in each case should be 400 revolutions per minute. On this grade of cotton it would be of A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 81 great advantage if metallic rails were used. The weig-ht of the sliver at the front of the finisher drawing frame should be about 70 gxains to the yard. The sliver at the drawing frames should be weighed about three times a day to see that it is the proper weight. The slubber roving should weigh about .51) hank. Only one process of fly frames is used and the hank at this should be about 1.50. The roving is then carried to THE SPINNING ROOM, when it is spun to the required count yarn. The particulars to spin. 12s on a warp frame are as follows: gauge of frame three inches; diameter of ring, 2-/^ inches; length of traverse, 7 inches; twist per inch, 16.45; speed of spindle, 9,000 revolutions per minute. The same particulars may be iised for making 14s 3^arn with the following exceptions, that somewhat different particulars are required for the spin- ning frame. The warp yarn is then spooled and taken to the twister Avheu it is made into 2-ply or 2-14s as the case may be, after which it is sized at the slasher. Dyeing Particulars. BLACK. 10 per cent immedial brilliant black B, 10 per cent sulphide sodium, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's. For the threads of colored yarn which are mixed with the black and white, fast sulphur colors are dyed. For union yarn a one-dip aniline union black is generally dyed. LIGHT BLUE. 10 per cent pyrogene indigo, 20 per cent sulphide sodium, 10 per cent soda ash, 35 per cent salt, 3 pints mineral odl. LIGHT GREEN. 8 per cent pyrogene green G, 16 per cent sulphide sodium, 6 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent salt. OLD GOLD. 4 peir cent pyrol bronze, 2 per cent pyrol yellow, 6 per cent sulphide sodi- um, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's. RED. 5 per cent benzo fast red, 3 per cent sal soda. 30 per cent Glauber's. cent sulphide sodium, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's. OLIVE. 4 per cent immedial oliA'e 3G, 1 per cent immedial cutch O, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's, 5 per cent sulphide sodium. FANCY SHIRTING. LIGHT BROWN. 10 per cent thion brown G, 10 per Fancy shirting is a light-weight, single cloth wash fabric, weighing from two to three ounces per yard, and composed of regular, single, cot- ton yarns, l-26s to 1-403 in warp and filling. It is made in simple stripe patterns either printed on the woven, bleached nB3«ZHZB-HrH:;B3 D«C«CBG« ■ Z]»:3Z«»jiBZZ«~B ■DenBCBD DHnBBZZHZZHBI.BG DBCBaBDB BGBZ'BZBZBZBZBZa BDBZBCBD CBZBZBZBCBZBZBZl OBCBOBuB BCBZiaBBZBBCCBZB BZBZBZBO CBDBBZZBZZBBZBJ f BGBZBnB BaBJBGBZBGBuBGB ■OBZBDBD Weave Weave nnnaDBzacBGnncD DCDBDnca DaDDBZ^ZCCBDDDD DDBCZ BG DBDBZZ-iBZnCBDBn OBCCCBCn ■□■jaDBZBanaBGB Bnn-Bjcn Draft Drawing-in-draft OnBBDDBBBnCBBnD DDBBZCBB ■■[UDBBGaaBBGaBa bbzlbboq Reed Reed Plan Idea for fancy weave fabric, or of fast colors, dyed iipon the warp. Combinations of each are sometimes formed to create attrac- tive styles. THE WEAVE used is eitJier the plain — or this combined with a fancy rib or basket weave. Fancy shirting is made to retail at 8 to 12y2 cents per yard, and is used in men's outing and working shirts, ladies' and children's waists, blouses and summer suits. It is from the con- sumer's standpoint a practically inex- pensive material, which, when the gar- ment becomes soiled, can become a part of the family wash and be readily renovated. Those grades in which the plain weave alone is used are best adapted to the plain single box roller room. The fancy styles, in which a more elab- orate weave effect is desired, require a loom having a dobby or witch top attached. The Knowles 1x1 loom, hav- 82 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. ing a Stafford dobby top, is very pop- ulai' for this style of cloth. THE FAST WARP COLORS, generally used In connection with the bleached or white yarns to create a range of patterns for this fabric, are: Dark blue, dark green, black, red, lavender, pink, ecru, tan, light green, light blue and \iolet. FINISHING. To finish this fabric the goods are taken from the loom and run through the washer, after which they are very lightly sized, then dried by the process of tentering (this also prevents undue shrinkage in width). After drying run through the calender to press out •wrinkles.also to bring up a clear, even face. Then the goods are ready to lap and fold in readiness for the shipper. CONSTRUCTION. 4 square inches equals 4.18 grains. 27x36 equals 972x4.18 equals 4,062.9G divided by 4 equals 1,015.74 divided by 437.5 equals 2.319 ounces per yard, 27 inches wide. 12 pieces blue warp times li/^ equals 18 inches equals .16 grains. 18x7,000 equals 126.000 divided by .16 equals 787,500 divided by 36 equals 21,- 878 divided by 840 equals l-2od blue warp ya.rn (cotton). 12 pieces white warp times 11^ equals 18 inches equals .16 grains. 18x7,000 equals 126,000 divided by .16 equals 787,500 divided by 36 equals 27.- 878 divided by 840 equals l-26s white warp yarn (cotton). 19 pieces white filling times 2 equals 38 inches equals .25 grains. 19x7,000 equals 266,000 divided by .25 equals 1,064,000 divided by 36 equals 29,833 divided by 804 equals l-36s white filling yarn (cotton). 27 inches finished. Reed, 1,150 minus 29 inches minus 2 ends per dent; 54 picks minus l-3Gs white cotton filling; l-26s cotton warp; 10 per cent take-up; 1,858 ends in warp plus 32 white selvedge. WARP PATTERN. 7 times. 3 white. •1 light blue 3 white. 1 lig-ht blue. 3 white. 2 white in 1 heddle. 8 light blue. 2 white in 1 heddle. 47 ends per pattern, 39 repeats of pattern plus 25 ends. Start at *. 16 blue ends per pattern times 39 repeats equals 624 plus 7 equals 6D1 blue ends. 31 white ends per pattern times 39 repeats equals 1,209 plus 18 plus 32 ends selvedge equals 1,250 white ends. 631 blue ends l-26s plus 10 per ceat equals 701 yards equals .513 ounces; 1.250 white ends l-26s plus 10 per cent equals 1,388 yards equals 1.001 ounces; 54 picks times 29 l-36s filling equals 1,- 5f'6 yards equals .828 ounces; total, 2.- 342 ounces. Finish, wash, size, calender. Carding ar.d Spinning Particulars. The fabric known as fancy shirting is made up of yarns, the counts of which vary from 20s to 60s, according to the mills making them, and also according to the grade being made. For the particulars that will be de- scribed below we will consider that the shirtings are made up of l-26swarp and 1-40S filling. It is not customary for both yarns to be made out of the same length of staple or grade of cotton, al- though in some instances this may be done. For the 40s yarn a good graxle of raw stock of about IVi to 1% inches stock should be used and for the 20s yarn a cotton of about 1 1-16 to 1 3-16 inch staple may be used with advan- tage. The raw stock in both cases should be put through the bale break- er and deposited in their different bins, being allowed to stand as long as possible before using. This is for the puiT)ose of drying out the cotton as it is easier to work when in this condition. An opener and two proc- esses of picking are generally used, although it is the custom in many mills to use three processes. When the latter is the case,the particulars given for the finisher picker may be used, ex- cept that the speed of the fan is not so great, also that the laps are of a lit- tle lighter weight. The hopper of the opener should be kept well filled so that an even amount of cotton will be always fed to the feed roll of the breaker picker. The speed of the beat- er (2 bladed rigid type) should be about 1,000 revolutions per minute; the fan,- about 350 revolutions per minute. The speed of the beater of the breaker should be about 1,500 revolutions per minute and for the f.nisher picker 1,- 450 revolutions per minute. This gives the cotton passing through about 42 beats per inch. The weight of lap at the breaker picker is 40 pounds, or 16 ounces to the yard. At the finisher (and intermediate picker if used) the doublings are four into one. The rov- ing cut waste is mixed at the back of A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 83 the finisher picker in the usual man- ner. The weight of the laps at the de- livery end of the finisher picker is 35 pounds for the longer stapled cotton and 39 pounds for the shorter.or a 12% ounce lap for the filling yarn and a 14^4 ounce lap for the warp yarn. The cards are set about the same in both cases, except where they are required to be set according to the length of staple. The draft of the card should not exceed 100 for the warp yam and should not be less than 100 for the fill- ing yarn. As large a doffer as possi- ble should be used with both stocks, and the weight of the sliver should be about 65 grains. The production would be 750 pounds per week of 60 hours for the filling cotton and 850 pounds for the warp yarn. Always keep the wire sharp and never under any circum- stances allow it to become dull. Grind cylinder and doifer wire at least once a month for half a day and grind top flats twice a month with "dead roll- er." Strip cards three times a day, both cylinder and doifer. Some over- seers strip cylinders twice and doffers three or four times. This, the}' claim, saves time asthe doffer maybe stripped while running and the sliver is not as uneven as when ti,oth doffer and cylinder are stripped at the same time. In the mills making fine yarns it is the general custom to strip three times a day. Three processes of drawing are used for both warp and filling. The only difference made in these machines is that the rolls are spread differently for the different lengths of staple. The weight of the sliver should be about 70 grains in both cases. The slubber makes this sliver into 50 hank roving, the standard twist being obtained by multiplying the square of the hank roving bj'' the con- stant 1. On the finer classes and long stapled cotton the front top rolls of the slubber are varnished, but this class of goods does not require this to be done. The roving for the warp yarns is put through two processes of fly frames, the hank at the first inter- mediate being 1.50 and at the second intermediate 3. The filling roving is put through two processes of fly frames, the hank roving at the first intermediate being 2, and at the sec- ond intermediate 5. The twist stand- ard is obtained by multiplying the square root of the hank by 1.1 for both cottons. Take special care of your top rolls to see that they are in perfect condition and not channeled, cut, un- even, oil soaked, dry at the bearings, loose or unevenly weighted. Look out for the settings of all fly frame rolls. The roving is carried to the spinning room, where it is drawn into the re- quired count. For 26s count warp yarn a frame with the following" particulars may be used: Gauge of frame 2% inches, diameter of ring 1% inches, length of traverse QV2 inches, twist per inch 24 plus, speed of spindle 9,700 rev- olutions per minute. For a filling making 40s, the particulars haAe been given in a previous lesson. The warp yarn is then s])ooled, warped and run through a slasher. Dyeing Particulars, DARK BLUE. 5 per cent immedial blue C, 5 per cent immedial blue C R, 1 per cent im- medial black N N, 10 per cent sodium sulphide, 30 i>er cent Glauber's, 3 per cent soda ash. DARK GREEN. 15 per cent thiogene green B, 15 per cent sodium sulphide, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's. BLACK. 15 per cent melanogen black G, 15 per cent sodium sulphide, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's. RED. 6 per cent primuline, diazortized and developed with Beta naphthol. LAVENDER. Vi per cent diamine blue, 3 R pat., after treated with M> per cent sulphate of copper at 160 degrees F. PINK. % per cent diamine rose B D, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. ECRU. 2 per cent katigen yellow brown G G, 2 per cent sodium sulphide, 20 per cent Glauber's, 2 per cent soda ash. TAN. 5 per cent thion brown G, 5 per cent sodium sulphide, 2 per cent soda ash, 20 per cent Glauber's. LIGHT GREEN on a tannin and tartar emetic mor- dant. Dye y2 per cent thioflavine T, ^ per cent new methylene blue G G. LIGHT BLUE. 2 per cent immedial sky blue, 2 pel cent sodium sulphide, 2 per cent soda ash, 20 per cent Glauber's. VIOLET. 1 per cent diamine blue 3 R pat., af- ter treated with % per cent sulphate of copper at 160 degrees F. s^ COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. TAPE, Tape is a very narrow fabric, com- liosed o«f either cotton or linen yarns in warij and lilling, and usually made with a point or broken twill \vea.\e, the break in the weave occurring in the centre of the tape, and the twill lines running in a right and left hand direction. It is made of all bleached yarns. It is made of regular yarns about l-26s to ]-30s and l-40s cotton and is used as a trimming, in the manufacture of clothing, also used as a binding In innumerable cases, such as paper boxes, etc., and is sold by the roll, each roll containing a certain number of yards. A fair grade of tape weighs about 20 j^ards per poimd. This fabric is woven in a broad loom having a light dobby head motion wt- tached, similar to that which is used on a hair clotli loom. the aforesaid rod in sucii a position that the rod in moving causes the said iitlachment to move th-i shutde from oiie box to the other in the same di- •.•cc'ion as the rod is taking. Tape requires as a finish, washing and drying on the cylinder.after which it is wound into rolls and is ready to pack and ship. CONSTRUCTION. Reed, 1,650 minus % inches width in reed, 59 ends, 46 picks, i_ point twill, 30 ends minus 29 ends left. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The counts of yarn used to make tape vary from 20s to 40s, according to the grade of tape required. In this article we will consider the warp yam to be 1-36 s and the filling l-40s. These counts of yarn would be made in the second division of m.ills as 5riven in a previous lesson. For this fabric the yarn would be made out of aoBBDaHnaBanuaaaDBaaaHnDBaDDaDaaaDDHDaHaDnHDDBBanBBDOBB aaaDDBBDaaBDDaaacBBDGBBaaaBDDBBaGaaBDDBBDaBaaaaaDnBaaDBBDDB Ba:DDaaDaaaaDBaaaBanaaaDaBaDDBaaaBDaaaaaaBDDaaaaaBGDBBDCBBDD BaDaaDaaBaDBajaaaaaBBaaBBanaaaDaBaaaBBaDBaDGaaaDaBDDaBDDaBD DDaBGnBBaDBaaaBaaDBBnnBBnaaBnDBnDaBnaBBDDBanDBBQDaanDaaonaB aHDcaHaGBao'riaaaDHDDrBDDBanaaBBaaBBaaaBDDaBDnBaDaBBDaBaDGa aBaaaaDDaaDGaaaDBBDaaaDDaBDaaaDBBDDBBaDaBanaBDaaflDDBBDDBBDa jBDaaBaaBaaGaaDaaBCGBBDDBaGaaBDaDBBaaaaaaBaaaaBaDaBaGBaaDBan Design. DnnBGnpBOGnBaDGBonnBnDnBDnnBDnnDnBnDaBgDpBnnaBgn;:;BaaqBnDaBD GaBGGaBnDiJBnGrBnnnBnaaBGnaoannBnrnBngqBna BgnnBDnaBDGGBGaaB aB^GnBDGnBaa^BDnnBaGDB~n~BaQQBDBDaaBnaaBDaDBaaaBDGaBGaaBgQg BaDaBaaaBaaaBaaGBGGaBaaaBaanBacaBaaaBGaaBDQaBGaaBacGBaaDB:_a Drawing-in draft. aaBBDGBBnnBBaaBBnaBBnnBBGGBBnGnBBanBBDnBBnnBBGnBBagBBggBBga BBGGBBGDBBaGBBaaBBGGBBGGBBGGBBBaGBBGGBBaGBBGGBBGGBBGaBBGaaa Reed plan. BBGG BGGB OGBB Weave In weaving this fabric, the loom is arranged to produce several rolls at the same operation, it being very nar- row. There are perhaps 20 rolls all weaving at once, as the warp yarn for each roll is beamed upon a small spool, thereby acting Independently of every other roll on the same loom. The warps are all drawn through the same harness or heddles, which are worked from the dobby motion. The peiouliar and important part of a tape loom is the filling arrangement or shuttle motion. Being a one shuttle fabric, each warp has its separa/te shuttle, all the shut- tles being operated at the same time, and by one motion. The shuttle, in traveling from one box to its mate, de- scribes a half moon movemenr, and this is accomplished by a sliding rod beneath the race hoard, and so set that at •each pick of the loom the rod moves from left to right and on the next pick right to left, and for each piece of tape being woven there must neces- sarily be a shuttle, and for each shut- tle there is an attachment placed on a medium grade cotton of from 1 to 11/4 inches in length. The bales of raw stock would be brought to the mix- ing room and stapled and those bales of the same length of sitaple would be opened and run through a bale break- er (if the mill contained one, or through a willow, or it may be mixed by hand) and passed by suitable means to THE MIXING BIN. It should be allowed to stand here as long as possible, so that the cotton may be opened up to the air, which dries It. and makes it easier to work than when it is not allowed to stand in the bins. At this point the good waste from the pickers, cards and drawing frames should also be mixed in with the raw stock. The cotton is then put through an opener and either two or three processes of picking, gen- erally two. If three processes of pick- ing are used, the intermediate process presents almost the same particulara as the finisher picker. In this in- stance, we will consider that only A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 85 TWO PROCESSES OF PICKING are used. The hopper should be kept as nearly full as possible, so that an even lap ma3' be made. The cotton is fed to the feed rolls of the breaker pickbr and after passing comes under the action of the beater which, if it is a rigid two-bladed type, should malve about 1,450 revolutions per minute, the speed of the fan being about 1,050 revo- lutions per minute. The weight of the lap at the front should be about 40 pounds or a 12-ounce lap. The doub- lings at the finisher picker are 4 into 1. The speed of the fan should be about 1,450 revolutions per minute, and the fan 1,100 revolutions per minute. This gives the cotton sheet about 42 beats per inch fed. Watch your drafts. The weight of the lap at the front should be about 39 pounds or a 141/2 ounce lap. When roving waste is mixed with the raw stock, it should first be put through A SPECIAL PROCESS to take out the twist, and through a breaker picker to make laps, and these laps are put up behind the finisher picker. These laps are mixed with the raw stock in a proportion of one lap roving waste to three laps of raw stock. The laps are put up at the card, the draft of which should not be less than 100, In speaking of cards we refer to the so-called English card and not the American card. The wire fillet of this card should be about No. 34 wire on cylinder and No. o5 wire on doffer and flats. This is equiv- alent to 110s and 120s, English count, and gives 79,200 points per square inch for cylinder and .86,400 points per square inch for doffer and top fiats. Grind the wire so as to Ivcep it sharp and strip three times a day. TPIE SLIVER at the front of the card should weigh about 65 grains per yard and a pro- duction of 800 pounds should be turned off for a week of 60 hours. Use as large a doffer as possible, either a 26 or 27 inch one. The sliver is put through three processes of drawing frames, doubling six into one, the speed of the front roll being 400 revolutions per minute, and the weight of sliver at the finisher drawing 70 grains to the yard. Always keep a stock of freshly varnished rolls on hand, so that if those in the frames become worn or damaged in any way they may be replaced at once. All the rolls should be varnished and changed at least once every two weeks. Drawing frames should be cleaned at least once a month. The SETTINGS OF THE DRAWING FRAME ROLLS should be looked after frequently to see that they have not slipped. The sliver is then passed to the slubber which draws and twists it into .50 hank roving. Watch your leather cov- ered rolls to see that they are perfect. The roving is then put through three processes of fly frames, the hank rov- ing at the first intermediate being 1.50 and at the second 3.50 hank and at the jack, 9. to 9.50 for both counts of yarn, the doublings being two into one in every case. Use the standard multipli- er for twist previously given. The roving is Ui'en taken to the spinning room and made into the required count. The particulars for a warp yarn of 36s count are as follows: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 6V^ inches; speed of spindle, 10,200 revolu- tions per minute. MERCERIZED VESTING, Mercerized vesting is either a light or heavy weight cotton wash fabric weighing from 5 to 8 ounces per j'ard, finished, and is made of one, two or three warps and one or two fillings. When made of one warp and filling, a light weight can be produced in case the warp and filling are both mercer- ized yarns. The warp for the face of the cloth ranges from 2-20s to 2-60s mercerized cotton, and the filling from 1-lOs to l-16s cotton. The styles range from granite and basket weave effects in solid white, to the more elaborate figured patterns, such as are created by forming spots on the face of the cloth, from warp ef- fect diamond, cross and curved twill weaves, so arranged as to scatter the design in regular formation, in imita- tion of jacquard designs. ADDING WEIGHT. The extra back warp is for the pur- pose of adding weight to the fabric, also permitting greater scope in face V eave effects, the idea being to so ar- range the face weave as to thoroughly cover the coarse filling, the back warp binding the filling into the cloth, un- der the figure floats of the face weave. In making a vesting having a back warp, always use a two-ply yarn for this warp, as a single yarn will bead 86 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. in the weaving", which means a loss of time every few hours in removing same, and the varp will not shed prop- eo-ly when the yarn is beaded, which on the cloth. The beads may then be either cnt off, or drawn through tha reed. If the latter method is used, the beads form a line of small lumps upon Mi-WyY!:i:I:r:r.!ctz»" ■f»Mii ■■■ ■■■ ■■■ ■■■ gg^aiB 5 s : ■■■»■■■■■ ■■■ ■■■ ■■■ ■ ?^J..i.i..L -."■.■".■■■."%■""■■."■.■—"■■■ .:. j.,.i. .1. .iS, » .k .u^p» .:. n m. ■&■ ■■« ■■■. am -■■■- -Jam «■■; ■■■ ■ ■«■. >■■ !■■ ■■■ ■■■ «■■ ■■■ ■■■ ■■■ ■■■ ■■■«■■■■■ ■■■ ■■■■■■I S S B I I 8 S I ■■■■««■ ■■■ ■■■ ■■■ ■■■ ■■■ ■■■ Mn ■ ■■■■ ■■■ ■■■■■■■ ■■■ ■■■■■■■ ■■■ ■■■ ■■■ ■■■ ■■■. ■■■ ■■■ ■ si|HJ{.s!8.S8SSB8BBa.8'^.BKSSSSMa,aU8»^ BS^HSBB SBSS^ISB SI"" ' ■ ir.'UiHaBaBBaB aaaBBi aBii'iaaaaa aaa aaaaaai aariaaaaaa aaa aaaaaai MBiiamB' ■ a >«.'< iiif m a k. ''*-BBi aaa aaa aaa i BBl BBBB a • t ariwBBBB i V « Bi'BBBBBB' ■ • ■ BBB BBBB B ■ B BBBBBBBBa BBB BBB BBl bBBBBbB b s s SBBBBSBh.B8BBBS..BS. ■ BaBBflBBHBfl|flHB|nBalBlBBB ^ ■■■■BBgBBB laa'aBBBBBB bBb bBb bSb b8b bBb bBb bBb m ...« ^»...I.J.««.„'-.I.„»„«. ■ aaa aaa aSa aEa ala bbb ABB aSa bbb bBb I aaa aaa bbb bbb bbb bbb bbb bbb bbb bbb 8 S 8 B 8 8 8 8 8 B IBB aaa aaa bbb bbb bbb bbb bbb aaa bbb b IBB aaa aaa aaa bbb bbb bbb bbb bbb bbb b ■aa aaa bbb bbb' bbb bBb bbb bbb bbb bbb .B.BB.BSBB.8.BB8BaB.»iBB3B..B.B.B..«l. Harness Chain. causes the reed to cat -"ihe yarn. The quickest way to remove the beads from the yarn in the shed is to loosen the top of the reed cap, and lay the reed up- the face of the cloth, from one selvedge to the other. While this in itself is not a serious imperfection, it means that the cloth must be cut at this point A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. n to remove the lumps, which to a cv:- tain extent destroys the utility of the piece in manufacturing the garments. EITHER A DOBBY OR JACQUARD. This fabric can be woven on either the dobby or jacquard loom. Most of the popular imported jacquard effects oan be imitated successfully on the dobby loom, having either single or double box filling motion. It is best adapted to the Knowles Gem Harness loom, or the Pairmount, 4x1, bos loom, having the Ingraham head mo- tion attached. To finish this fabric, the cloth goes from the loom to the measuring ma- chine, after which it is scoured, dur- ing which operation the goods are run through a solution of soap and cold water to remove all stains such as mill dirt and grease spots. After washing it is calendered or pressed, and each piece is folded and doubled up in heavy paper and tied with a cheap tape. It is then ready to pack and ship. A style having great vogue in the spring of 1904 was a mixed effect, pro- duced by using an all white mercerized warp, and black mercerized filling, the ground weave being 1 up, 1 down and the figure, small, double-headed tri- angles. Reed, 700 minus 30 inches in reed 4 ends per dent in reed; 2-20s white mer- cerized warp, 2-20s black mercerized filling; 48 picks. Weight about 71/2 ■ounces. CONSTRUCTION. 62 ends face finished, 31 ends back finished, equals 93. 1 square inch equals 3 grains; 60 picks finished; 29x36 equals 1,044x3 equals 3,132 divided by 1 equals 3,132 divided by 437.5 equals 7.16 ounces per yard. ^ face ends, back ends. 30 inches in reed including selvedge; 29 inches finished. Scour and calender. 16 pieces mercerized face yarn times 3 inches equals 48x7,000 equals 3;:J6,000 divided by .95 grains equals 353,684 divided by 36 equals 9,824.5 divided by 840 equals 11.69 or 2-20s mercerize J yam. 8 pieces back yarn times 2 equals 16 x7,000 equals 112,000 diviJed by .18 equals 62,444 divided by 36 equals 17,- 345.5 divided by 840 equals 20.64 or 2-40s back warp yarn. 17 pieces filling yarn times 2 equals 34x7.000 equals 238,000 divided by .7 -equals 340,000 divided by 36 equals 9,- 444 divided by 840 equals 11.24 or l-12s filling yarn. 3 pieces fancy color (spot) yarn ti-es 3 equals 9x7,000 equals 63,000 divi I'^d by .1 equals 630,000 divided by 36 equals 17,500 divided by 840 equals "*-WH='=="^-±- tet±B— ±i- ----- ^M\ i|i IH - 1 B ^ J— i— ~-A- -4- ^-li||^i|iH4^ Reed i^lan. Dra wing-in Draft. 20.8 or 2-40s extra warp (for figruring) yarn. 30 inches in reed, 30 dents per inch in reed, 900 minus 10 splits equals 890 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. splits, 40 ends 2-40s cotton selvedge, 7G ends in repeat of pattern equals 2J repeats plus 32 ends. 1,780 ends 2-20s mercerized face ends, 890 ends 2-40s cotton back ends, 40 ends 2-40s ootton selvedge ends, Di ends 2-40s cotton colored ends, equals 900 splits or 30 inches in reed. 3 1-3 per cent contraction in widtli in w^eaving, 5 per cent take-up, 6 2-3 per cent shrinkage in length in finish- ing. 1,780 ends plus 5 per cent take-up equals 1,873.7 yards, 2.20s mercerized equals 3.568 ounces, 890 ends plus 5 per cent take-up equals 936.8 yards 2-40s cotton equals .892 ounces, 94 ends equals 94 yards 2-40s cotton equals .009 cmnoes, 40 ends plus 5 per cent take-up equals 421 yards 2-40s cotton equals .04 ounces, 50 ends l-12iS fiLMnig times 30 inches equals 1,680 yards l-12s cotton equals 2.666 ounces; total, 7.175 ounces finished. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The counts of yarn required to miaoufaciture fihe fabric umder desicrip- tion would he made in the thiird or possibly in the second diivision of miills, as gi^ven in a previous lesson. It will be uniderstood that a great miany grades of fancy vestings are made amd that the ranige of the counts of the yarns is also varied. For this artHcle we will consider thait the warp yam counit is 2-60s and thiat thie filling yarn is 16s count. The grade of ootton used for the finer oooinlt should be gooid amd the length of the staple about 1^/^ inches, al- though cottion from 1% to 1% inches may ibe usiedi. For the coarser yarn a cotton with the staple of 1 inch may be used. The two different cottons ■wiO'uM be TREATED ALIKE up to a certain point amd unless other- wiLse noted what is said may be ap- plied tio both coittons. The' cotton raw stock sihouM be first brought to the bale breaker and there stapled and graded by the overseer and all bales not up to the proper standard laid aside. Several bales should be opened and placed around the bale breaker and fed tO' this machine alter- itaitely; that is, first a section from one bale and then a section from another, until all the cotton is fed, amd not one bale fed imitil it is all gone. By the first method a more even mixing is obtained. Two processies of picking aaid an opemer are generally used, and after allowiing the co.lton to stand in the ibins as long as possiiMe, where the good sliver waste from the cards, sliver lap and ribbon lap machines, combs, drawing frames and slubber is MIXED WITH THE RAW STOCK, the cotton is fed to the hopper of the opener. This machine is really the first machine that evens the cotton so tbat a certain weight of ootton will be dielivered for a certain length. In order to accomiplish this the hop- per should be kept as nearly full as pOiSsible so that the lifting apron will always be loaded. The speed of the berate r of this machine is about 1,050 revolutions per minute, having a fan speed of 350 revolutions per minute. The cotlton is delivered from this mar chine to the feed rolls of the breaker picker. The speed of a rigid two- bladed type of beater should be about 1,500 revoilutionis per minute, the fan S'peedi being 1,400 revolutions pel minute. The WEIGHT OF THE LAP delivered at the front should be about 40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap for the finer counts and 20 ounces for the coarser counts. The laps are then put up at the finisher picker and doubled four into one. It is a/t this point that the cut roving waste is^ mixed in, this waste having gone through a special process to take out the tiwist. Mix one lap of cut waste to three of raw stock laps. The speed of the beater for this clasis of goods should mot ex- ceed 1,450 revolutions per minute with a fan speed of about 1,100 revolutions per minute. This class of goods should not receive more than 42 beats per inich, and for the longer staple cotton the beats per inch shiould be dropped to 32 to 3G. If the cotton receives too many beats it is apt to put neps in and if not beaten enough, tihe dirt will not be taken out. The STANDARD WEIGHT of the finer yam lap should be about 35 pounds, or about 12 ounces per yard. The coarser yarn lap should weigh 39- pounds, or about 14 ounces per yard. The variation from the standard weigthit of laps should not be more than one-half pound either way and laps which vary more than this should be run over. The laps are put up at tbe card and the draft for the fijner count sbouild not be less than 100 amid the coarsier one not over 100. Close set- tings should be used for the 60is yarn and some overseers speed up the top flats so that a greater amoumt of waste will be taken out. The same wire A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. S9 may be used for both counts, i. e., 34s (American aumlbei") foir cyl'iuider anid 35 or 36s for tiop flats anid doffer. Use as large a doffer as possiible. In the longer staples some o'verseeirs slow down the SPEED OF THE LICKElR-IN. Thiey say that the sipeed of this part iis too fast: for long staples 'and it tends to put neps into the cotton. The weight of the sliver for the 60.s yarn should be about 50 grains, and for the 169 about 65 graJims per yard. The production for the finer yam is 500 pounds peir week of 60 hours, and for the coarser yarn 65 grains per yard. Strip cards three times a day, ajl- tlhough some oveTseeirs strip the dof- fer four times. The isliver for the finer yarn is co^mibe'd asad the eoarser yarn goes direct to the drawimg frame. We will first follow the COURSE OF THE COTTON for the 60s yarn. It is first put through the sliver lap 'machine, the doublings being 14 into 1, the weight of tihe lap being 300 grains per yard. Six O'f these laps are put up at the ribbon lap machine, the weigtht of lap at front being 260 graims iper yard. The laps are then put up at the coimber, the douiblinigs being genierally siix imto one, althousfh eight intO' one is some- times used. The speed of tilie comber should be about 90 nips per minute, draft 29, percentage of iwasite taken out 18, and the weight of the sliver •about 45 grains per yard. This sliver is then put throaig^i two pro'cesses of drawing, the doublings being 6 into 1. The weight of the sliver at the finisher drawing frames is 70 grains per yard. See that your drawing frames are well oiled, the top rolls be- ing oiled twice a day, but also see that no oil gets on the leather. See that all weights are properly adjusted and tne trumpet holes the right size, also tuat the stop motions are all ad- justed properly. The sliver is then passed to the slubber, where it is drawn into .50 hank roving. It then passes through THREE PROCESSES OF FLY FRAME, the hank roving at the first inter- mediate being 1.50, and the second 4.00 hank, and at the jack frame 13 hank. The sliver for 16s is put through three processes of drawing, the weight of sliver at the finisher drawing being 70 grains per yard, the hank roving at the slubber .50. This roving is only put through two processes of fly frames, the hank rov- ing being made at the first about 1.50, at the second 4.00 hank. The doub- lings in all cases are 2 into 1. Tne roving is passed to the RING SPINNING ROOM, when it is made into 60s count. The following particulars would be used for a frame spinning this count: Gauge of spindles, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1 5-16 inches; length of traverse, 5 inches; revolutions per minute of spindles, 10,000; twist per inch, 34.68. For filling, either mule or ring frames may be used. If ring frames are used, use the follow par- ticulars: Gauge of spindle, 2% inches; diameter of ring, IH inches, length of traverse, 6^^ inches. The warp yarn is then twisted into 2-ply 00s at the twister, then spooled and then put into the warper, where it is warped on beams, and from here is passed to the slasher. Dyeing Particulars for Mercerized Vesting. Following are the dyeing particulars iW for mercerized vesting: *■ Dyed mercerized yarn for spots. RED. Turkey red, or primuline red, primu- line red dyeing. 6 per cent primuline red, 30 per cent Glauber's; diazotized 11/2 pounds ni- traJte soda, 5 pounds sulphuric acid de- veloped, two pounds Beta naphthol.well rinsed and soaped twice and rinsed in hot water. SKY BLUE. 5 per cent immedial sky blue. 5 per cent sodium sulphide. 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's, rinse well, and g'ive a soap bath, rinse well and dry. N.WY BLUE. S per cent immedial dark blue B, 8 per cent sulphide soda, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's, rinse well, soap, and rinse in hot water, and dry. BROWN. 10 per cent thion brown G, 10 per cent sulphide sodium, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's, rinse and soap as above blue. DARK GREEN. 10 per cent katigen r^ark green 2B, 2 per cent katigen blue Black B, 2 per cent katigen yellow GG, 14 per cent sodium sulphide, 30 per cent Glau- 90 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. ber's, 3 per cent soda ash, rinse and soap as above. OLIVE. 8 per' cent pyrogene olive G, 8 per cent sodium sulphide, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's, rinse and soap as above. MAROON. 10 per cent immedial Bordeaux G, 10 per cent sodium sulphide, 28 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent soda ash, rinse and soap as abOA'e. BLACK. 15 per cent immedial black NN, 15 I>er cent sodium sulphide, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent soda ash, rinse and soap as above. JEAN. .lean is a narrow, hard-faced cotton fabric, weighing from 4 to 4^/^ ounces per yard, and is usually made of a hard-twiisted warp yarn, about l-20s cotton, and either a wool or a wool ziBaGBaDaBDia BBCjaa^aacaaa BGaaGBBaaaaa □aaGaaaaBDaa BBaBaaaaDBaa BDBBQBBaBBOa DBBDBBaBBaaB ■■DBBCBiinjiia DBBGBBnBjICJ" BBnBBOBBnBBD ■□BBDBBDBBI^'B DDBDnBGnBDCB DBCaBaaBDDBD mziamanmanmaa Drawing-in Draft OGBBnOBBDOBB BBDDBBGaBBDD Reed Plan shoddy filling. The fabric is made with a small, uneven-sided tv/ill w^eave, warp effect face, viz.: — j 45^ twill, the cloth being of a slate black color. Jean is used principally in the man- ufacture of ready-to-wear trousers, re- tailing at 85 cents to $1 per pair, for workmen who perform hard, rough and dirty work, and who do not wear overalls.. For this purpose it is tho most serrvioeable fabric on the market, the garment when worn beiing popix- larly known as Kentucky .lean, which has this distinct advantage, that upon Its becoming soiled, a good washing will reariily cleanse and remove all dirty marks, and apparently toughen the cloth, although causing it to shrink somewhat. "KENTUCKY JEANS" are worn by laborers, railroaders, moulders, machinists, loom fixers, general male mill help, etc., and with a small amount of care will wear well for two or three years. Jean is made with one warp and one filling, and can be woven in any single box, roller loom, good results being obtained from the Fairmount or Bridesburg. The warp yarn is generally of a cheap grade of cotton, and receives about two extra turns of twist per inch, in excess of the required amount of twist in the regular yarn of a sim- ilar count. It is this fact which caus- es jean as a fabric to have such a hard feel. The filling is usually a mixture, con- taining about 40 per cent cotton and 60 per cent wool shoddy, the yarn be- ing spun on the woolen principle. The wool shoddy is made by picker- ing and carding darlv colored woolen rags, after which the cotton and shod- dy are made into a mixing of relative proportions and the lot run through the mixing picker. The stock is then carded and spun, the yarn receiving suflicient filling twist, the result being a dark colored, lofty thread, a suitable filling for this fabric jean. The warp is dyed a rather grayish black, with cheap dry color, and the warp and filling colors combined in the weaving produce a fabric of a de- cidedly slate black appearance. Jean receives a dry finish, being brushed, sheared and pressed, after which it is rolled or lapped, then packed into cases, for shipment. CONSTRUCTION. Reed 800 — ZQV^ inches plus 2 ends per dent, 10 per cent take-up in weaving, 36 picks l-20s cut wool shoddy, l-20s cotton warp. Finish equals 27 inches. 44.4x301/^ equals 1,354 ends plus 10 per cent equals 1,480 yards l-20s cotton warp equals 1.41 ounces. Warp, 36 picks times 30i/^ equals 1,098 yards, 1-20S cut wool shoddy equals 2.92 ounces filling. 1.41 ounces warp, 2.92 ounces filling, equals 4.33 ounces. 4.33 ounces weight, 27 inches wide. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yarn used for this class of goods is constinicted by two entirely different systems. The filling is generally com- posed of a mixture of wool or wool shoddy and cotton. The filling yarn is therefore made in a woolen mill. It is understood that entirely different ma- chines are used, and the method of mixing is entirely difTerent from that used in a cotton mill, although the A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 91 names of the machines in many in- stances are alike. The warp yarn is made of all cotton stock and is there- fore spun into yarn in a cotton mill, and below will befound the carding and spinning particulars for making this count of yarn of jean fabric. Of course, these may and are deviated from in many mills, but not to any great extent. THE RAW STOCK generally used is of a low grade and about one inch in staple. This class of yarn is spun in mills of the first di- vision as given in a previous lesson and the mixing would be done by hand. The bales of cotton would be sampled and all those of the same length would be put into the mixing bin. For this class of goods a small percentage of comber waste is sometimes mixed with the raw stock and some mills use the card waste. The percentage is gener- ally small, however. The good waste from the pickers, cards and drawing frames is always used and mixed at this point. The raw stock is run through an opener and two processes of picking. The hopper should always be kept full. The speed of the beater should be 1,050 revolutions per minute, and the fan 350 revolutions per minute. The speed of the breaker picker beater is about 1,500 revolutions per minute, the fan speed being 1,400 revolutions per minute. THE WEIGHT OF LAP at the front of this machine is about 40 pounds or 16 ounces to the yard. The doubling at the finisher picker is four into one and the speed of the beater (two-bladed rigid type) 1,450 revolutions per minute, which gives the cotton passing through it about 42 heats per inch. The speed of the fan is about 1,100 revolutions per minute. The weight of the total lap is about 30 pounds, or 14% ounces to the yard. ■Clean out from under the pickers fre- quently so that the fly will not collect and be drawn back into the good clean cotton passing through. The draft of this picker shoiild be about 2.75. The laps are then put up at THE CARD. This machine should not have a draft of more than 100. The doffer should be as large as possible and the wire fillet used should be No. 33 wire (American count) for cylinder and No. 34 for doffer and flats. The flats make one revolution about every 45 minutes. The cards should be stripped three times a day and ground once a month. The weight of the sliver should be 65 grains to the yard, and the production for a week of 60 hours should be between 950 and 1,000 pounds. This sliver is then run througla TV/0 PROCESSES OF DRAWING FRAMES. The settings used at one mill for this stock and staple are as follows: Front roll to second, 114. second tothird, 1%,, and third to back, l^^ inches. The doublings at this machine are six into one and the speed of the front roller 400 revolutions per minute. The draft at the finisher machine is about 5.75. The weight of the sliver should be about 75 grains per yard. The draw- ing sliver should be sized at least twice a day and four times would be much better. The sliver is then drawn into .50 hank roving by the slubber and three processes of fly frames, the hank roving being as follows: 1.50 at the first intermediate, 3.50 at the second, and 8.00 at the jack frame. The usual care should be given to the rolls, etc., and THE ROVING at the jack frame should be sized once a day. The roving is then put through a warp spinning frame, the particulars being as follows: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of rings, two inches, length of traverse, seven inches. This yarn is hard twisted and receives about two complete turns more per inch than usually used for cloth yarn; that is, the regular twist per inch for this count is 21.24 turns per inch, but for this cloth is 23.24. The speed of the spindle is about 9,400 revolutions per minute. This yarn is taken to the spoolers and spooled from the spools, is warped and put through the slasher. A good sizing is made as follows: Water, 100 gallons; potato starch, 70 pounds; tallow, four pounds; turpen- tine, one pint. Dyeing Particulars. DARK SLATE. 2r^ pounds thion black G, 2^^ pounds sulphide sodium, one pound soda ash, 20 pounds salt. BLACK. 15 pounds thion black G, 15 pounds sulphide sodium, three pounds soda ash, 30 pounds salt. 92 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. CRETONNE. Cretonne is a light-weight single cloth, all catton fabric, weighing from 2 to 5 ounces per yard, and composed of j'arns ranging from l-40s to l-20s in the warp and l-20s to l-7s in the fill- ing. It is usually woven with either the plain weave — r, — -■ twill 45 de- gree, or a fancy effect resembling a granite weave, such as is used as a foundation weave in dress goods. The fabric is woven with either an all bleached or graj' cotton warp and fill- ing, the patterns being fancy stripes and all over floral effects printed in bright colors upon one side of the goods. This gives the printed or face side of the fabric somewhat of the appear- ance of an elaborately figured jac- quard design. Those colors found most effective for this purpose are bright CGI DDBI obd: ■■a: □□■i -□□■■■DDB IBDCaBBDn l^aBODBBn JBBBaDDBn EBCDBGDD ^□GBBBaGB rr"B"GBBB i«b:. GGBrn "GDI ig: I ^■■■r ID IBGGGBDD :.BGGBDDa Harness nnnaaDnnDDDB DnonanDDDaBn naDDaaDDDBna nDDDDDDDBnaa DDnmnDBDDDa DDDDaDBDDDDa DDanaBDODDDa DanQBGDDDDaa DanBDQDaDDDn DDBDnananDDn nBDDDDa DDDQ ■DDDnnGDnnDn Drm-inj-in-Draft □DBBGDBBGDBB BBGQBBGGBBDD BecJ Flan chain same as design. and medium shades of red, blue, green, yellow, etc., and a good jet black. Cretonne is made in widths from 25 inches to .3fi inches, the narrow grades being the lightest in weight. The various grades are used for couch covers, draperies, lambrequins, and comfortables or bed quilts. THE WEAVING. Being a one-shuttle fabric, plain weave or twilled, cretonne can be wov- en on the single box roller loom such as the Mason, Draper, Lowell, Col- vin, Lewiston, or Kilburn and Lincoln. The fancy grades in which mixed weaves are desired, necessitate the use of the Knowles Fairmount, or similar looms, with a dobby or head motion attached. The warp for creitonne, being either gray or bleached yam, is prepared in a manner similar to that of weaving a plain ordinary sheeting. Those grades in which the plain weave or '—-^ twill weave are used are drawn in and woven upon four harnesses. If, however, a fancy weave is desired, the warp must be drawn in and woven upon a number of har- nesses, in accordance with the number of ends in one repeat of weave desired. As printing the colored pattern upon this fabric constitutes the finish there- of, the goods are taken from the loom and run through the brushing ma- chine, to remove all dust, dirt or loose ends. THE FIGURED PATTERN to be produced upon the cloth has been engraved ui)on bronze rollers, which have been set up in the printing machine. The colors are fed auto- matically to the rollers, which, in re- volving, register the colors upon the face of the cloth, as it passes between them. The cloth is then dried by be- ing run through heated rollers or drums, and the fabric is then rea ly to be folded into suitable lengths to be packed and shipped. Four square inches equals 7.95 grains. 29X.36 equals 1,044x7.95 equals 8.2rt9.- 80 divided by 4 equals 2,074.95 divided by 437.5 equals 4.742 ounces per yard, 29 inches wide. 20 pieces white warp yarn equals x2i,'2 inches equals 50 inches equals .55 grains, 50x7,000 equals 350,000 diviled by .55 equals 036,363 divided by 36 equals 17,399 divided by 840 equals l-20s cotton warp yarn. 12 pieces white filling yarn times 4 inches equals 48 inches equals 1.55 grains. 48x7,000 equals 336,000 divided by 1.55 equals 216,774 divided by 36 equals 6,021.5 divided by 840 equals l-7s cot- ton filling yarn. 15 cents per yard, 29 inches finished. CONSTRUCTION. Reed, 900 minus 30 1-3 inches minus 2 ends per dent, 52 ends per inch fin- ished, 40 picks per inch finished, equals 50 ends in reed, 38 picks in loom, 10 per cent take-up in weaving. 52x29 equals 1,508 plus 10 per cent equals 1,675 yards l-20s cotton warp yarn, 40x29 equals 1,160 yards l-7s cot- ton filling yarn, 1,675 j^ards, l-20s cot- ton warp equals 1,595 ounces, 1,160 yards l-7s cotton filling equals 3.156 ounces equals 4,751 ounces. 10 cents per yard, 25% inches quality - — - twill, four square inches equals 3.9 grains. 251^x36 equals 909x3.9 equals 3545.1 divided by 4 equals 886.2 divided by 437.5 equal? 2.ri25 ounces per j^ard, 25^4 inches wide. A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 93 Carding and Spinning Particulars. The division of mills making cre- tonnes would be the second (or those mills equipped with machinery for making yarns the counts of which vary from 20 to SOs). The counts of yarn used for cretonne vary from l-20s to 1-40S warp and from l-7s to l-20s filling, according to the quality of cretonne required. In speaking of the second division of mills we do not mean to say that the count of yarn is always Avithin these limits, but that when buying machinery, the specifica- tions for the different machines are made out according to whether the machines are to use low, medium or a fine grade of raw stock. Of course, it often happens that yarns of a lower count or of a higher count are made on this machinery, but the great bulk of the yarns turned off are within the limits. For example, take cretonne: All grades of cretonne may be made in the same mill, although the count of the yarn varies from 7s to 40s..or in some cases even a finer yarn than this is used. For this article we will con- sider that the filling yarn is l-20s and the warp yarn is l-40s. The length of staple used would be from 1 1-16 to I14 inches of a medium grade of cotton. The bales of raw stock would first be sampled and several bales of practical- ly the same length of staple placed around the bale breaker and fed to this machine in small portions alternately from each bale. In this manner it is mixed better than if one entire bale was fed. If a bale breaker is not used the method would be just the same except thait it would be done by hand. The lower count would use cotton of a length of 1 1-lfl inches and the higher count 1^,4 inches. Both cottons would be put through an opener and two processes of picking. Keep your hopper of the opener well filled (over half full). The speed of the beater for both grades of cotton should be about 1,050 revolutions per minute; the speed of the fan about 350 revolu- tions per minute. See that your pin roller is always clean, because if the cotton is allowed to accumulate, it cannot perform its duty properly. The cotton is fed to the feed rolls of the breaker beater and passed on to the beater, the speed of which should be about 1,050 revolutions per minute; a rigid two-bladed type. The total weight of the lap at the front should be about 40 pounds, or 16 ounces to the yard for both cottons. The laps are doubled at the finisher picker four in- to one, the cut roving being mixed in at this point in the proportion of three laps of raw stock to one of bobbin waste. The speed of the beater should be about 1,450 revolutions per minute with a fan speed of 1,100 revolutions per minute. This gives the cotton passing through about 42 beats per inch. See that the grid bars under the beaters are properly set. The tO'tal weight of the lap at the frontshould be 39 pounds for the shorter staple cotton and 35 pounds for the longer, or a 14- ounce lap for the 1 1-16-inch staple and 121^-ounce lap for the l^i-inch staple cotton. Keep the picker room clean and al- ways calculate to have enough laps of each kind of cotton ahead so that if breakdowns occur the cards will not be stopped for want of laps. The draft of the finisher picker is about 3. The cards should be set as before de- scribed in a previous lesson, except that the feed plate should be set to the llcker-in, according to the length of the staple. Cards should be stripped three times a day and ground at least once a month. The wire fi.llet should be made of 34 wire (or 110s English count) for cylinder and 35 (or 120s English count) for doffer and flats. Use as large a doffer as possible, say 26 inches at least. The draft of the card should be about 100 for both stocks. The weight of the sliver at the front of the card should be about 65 grains. The production should be 825 pounds for the shorter staple and 600 pounds for the longer one for a week of 60 hours. The card sliver is next put through three processes of drawing frames. A few of the more particular points to look out for are, scour the frames at least once a month, keep your leather top rolls in perfect condition and well oiled and barnished. See that all knock-off motions are in working order to pre- vent single and double; keep the weight of your sliver uniform by siz- ing it at least twice a day and three times a day for fine yarns, doubling six into one at all frames. The weight of the sliver at the finisher drawing should be about 70 grains per yard. The drawing sliver is drawn into .50 hank roving at the slubber, the stand- ard twist being found by multiplying the square root of hank by 1. The roving for the 20s yarn goes through two processes of fly frames, the hank at the first intermediate being 2 and at the second 5 hank. The 40s yarn rov- ing is put through three processes, the hank roving at each process being as follows: first, 1.50; second, 3.50 and 94 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. third, 9 to 9.50 hank, the doublings at all frames being two into one. The sliver is then passed to the spinning room. In case the filling yarn is spun on a ring frame the following would be good particulars for the frame spin- ning 20s: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% Inches; length of traverse, 61,1; inches; speed of spin- dle, 7,300 revolutions per minute; twist per inch, 14.50; and for a warp frame spinning 40s: gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 6% inches; twist, 28.45. The warp yarn is then spooled, warped and run through a slasher. Dyeing Particulars. RED. 5 per cent benzo fast red, 4 B S, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent soda. YELLOW. 2 per cent chrysophenine, 30 per cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda. LIGHT BLUE. 1 per cent diamine sky blue F F, 30 per cent Glauber's, 1 per cent sal soda. LIGHT GREEN. 1 per cent diamine fast yellow FF, 1 per cent diamine sky blue PF, 30 per cent Glauber's, 1 per cent sal soda. ORANGE. 1' per cent tetrazo orange, C R, 30 per cent Glauber's, 1 per cent sal soda. MAROON. 3 per cent tetrazo Corinth G, 30 per cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda. HELIOTROPE. 3 per cent heliotrope B B, 30 per cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda. On a tannin and tartar emetic mordant dye the four following shades: MALACHITE GREEN. 2 per cent malachite green; also for MEDIUM BLUE. 2 per cent methylene blue. PINK. 1 per cent rhodamine 5G. PURPLE. 1 per cent methyl violet 3 B. BLACK. 15 per cent thion black G, 15 per cent sulphide sodium, 5 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent salt. SLATE. 2 per cent thion black G, 2 per cent sulphide sodium, 2 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent salt. LIGHT BROWN. 8 per cent thion brown G, 8 per cent sulphide sodium, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent salt. DARK BROWN. 12 per cent thion brown G, ^ per cent thion black G, 12 per cent sodium sulphide, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent salt. Cretonnes are also printed with very large picture designs of very bright colors," of very strcmg contrast gener- ally. Some styles are of a simple character with small flowers and twigs on a white or cream-colored ground. Other styles are of startling reds and other bright colors, on a dark brown, maroon or black ground, or on any dark colored ground to make a contrast. The colors are printed with fast ali- zarine or tannin colors, which will be fast to sunlight and washing. Bright- ness of shade is required in most cases. SILESIA. Silesia is a light-weight single cloth fabric, having a rather high texture, and weighing about three ounces per yard. It is composed of all cotton aaaaaaaajaaa BaaaDBaGBana GBB^aaDaaaBB aaaaajaacaan aaaaaaaDBaDB DBBGaaGBBzaa BaziBflGaBGaaa BGaaoaaaaaDB DBBGaaaBaDaa BBjaaaaaaaBQ BGaajaaGBBna DnaGGaanaDGB DBjnaGGBGraa BGaBGGBQDBaa Drawiog-iii Draft GGGBBB'^GGBBB BBBGGGBBajGG Reed Plan yarns l-30s to l-40s in warp and filling 2 and is usually made with a — - 45 degree right-hand twill weave. It is used principally as a lining for la- dies' and men's clothing. A VERY IMPORTANT FEATURE in connection with this fabric is the highly glazed or polished face of the goods, which is due to the action of the heated roller in the calendering machine upon the sizing, which the goods hajve absorbed in the process of finishing, just previous to the calen- dering operation. Silesia is woven of yarn in the gray sitate and is dyed in the piece, in such colors as black, dark blue, brown. /~l A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 95 slate, drab, steel, etc. It is woven on any single box roller loom, such as the Mason, Lowell, Lewiston, Colvin, etc. The warp is made upon an Entwistle or Draper warping mill, and beamed upon the Lowell slasher. It is then ready to be drawn in on cotton har- ness, and woven in a manner similar to a drill. TO FINISH THIS FABRIC. The goods are taken from the loom and brushed, then run through a solu- tion of soap and cold water to remove all dirt, after which they are rinsed in cold water. The goods are now dyed in the piece, after which they are sized, then ten- tered to keep from shrinking in width, also to dry the cloth. After tentering, the goods are run through the calender to produce the smooth, glazed finish upon the face of the cloth. The fin- ished fabric is then ready to prepare for packing and shipping. Four square inches equals 5.4 grains, 27x36 equals 972x5.4 equals 5,248.8 divided by 4 equals 1,312.2 divided by 437.5 equals three ounces per yard, 27 inches wide finished. 24 pieces warp yarn times l^^ inches equals 36 inches equals .3 grains; 36x 7,000 equals -252,000 divided by .3 equals 840,000 divided by 36 equals 23,333 di- vided by 840 equals l-28s warp. 30 pieces filling yarn times li^ inches equals 45 inches equals .33 grains; 45x7,000 equals 315,000 divided by .33 equals 924,242 divided by 36 equals 25,673 divided by 840 equals l-30s filling. CONSTRUCTION. Reed, 1,012 minus 28.7 inches in reed minus three ends per dent, 90 ends per inch finished and 72 picks per inch finished, equals 86 ends in reed and 69 picks in loom. 10 per cent take-up on warp in weaving 6 per cent size on warp In weaving. l-28s cottooi warp,l-30s cotton filling. Color — slate or drab. 90x27 equals 2,430 plus 10 per cent equals 2,700 yards l-28s cotton warp, 72x27 equals 1,944 yards l-30s cotton filling. 2.700 yards L-28s cotton warp equals 1.S37 ounces, 1,944 yards l-30s cotton filling equals 1.234 ounces, equals 3.071 ounces. Finish equals brush and calender. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yarns used in making silesia vary from SOs to 40s. These counts of yarn would be made in a mill of the second division as given in a previous lesson. Mills making this class of goods are now generally equipped with a bale breaker. After the cotton is stapled and the bales sorted out, according to the length of staple and grade of cotton, several bales are placed around the bale breaker and the cotton fed to this machine alternate- ly from each bale. By this method the COTTON IS MORE THOROUGHLY MIXED than if a whole bale was fed to the machine at once. The cotton is then dropped on an endletss lattice and car- ried to its proper bin. This latter is g'enerally movable in either direction so that it may be placed in position to drop the cotton into its proper bin. The mixings should be as large as pos- sible and cotton of a fair grade having a staple of 1% to l^.i inches for this class of goods. The mixings should be allowed to stand as long as possible and the good waste from the pickers, cards, drawing frames and back of slubber should be mixed in at this place. The waste from the above ma- chines is collected at regular intervals, and may be mixed as fast as collected. Little system is used in mixing the waste into the raw stock, but the pick- er rooim boss should watch to see that the waste man keeps the different lengths of staples, kinds and grades of cotton by themselves. Otherwise trouble is bound to occur at the lat- ter machines. The raw stock is put through an opener, and sometimes three but more oftem TWO PROCESSES OF PICKING. The hopper of the opener is tilled with cotton and started up and should be kept well filled all the time it is in motion. The speed of the beater of this machine for this class of goods should be 1,050 revolutions per minute with a fan speed of 350 revolutions per minute. Keep your pin beater clean and see that it is adjusted to the prop- er distance from the lifting apron so that the correct amount of cotton will be fed to the breaker picker. The to- tal weight of the laps for both the warps and filling yarn should be about 40 pounds or 16 ounces to yard of lap. These laps are put up at the finisher picker and doubled four into one. The speed of the beater is 1,450 revolutions per minute, with a fair speed of 1,100 revolutions per minute. This gives the cotton about 42 beats per inch of cotton fed. The beats per inch given 96 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. to cotton do not vary much on all classes of cotton, except in xhe case of Sea Island, of a long staple. In tlie latter case the speed of the beater is slowed down so that the cotton re- ceives from 29 to 34 beats per Inch. The total weight of the lap at the front end of the iinisher is 35 pounds or I2V2 ounces to yard of lap. The BOBBIN WASTE COTTON is mixed at this point, it first having gone through an extra process to take out the twist. This waste is made into a lap and then put up at the finisher picker and mixed in proportions of three laps of raw stock to one lap of bobbin waste. The draughts of the picker should be looked after to see that the curi-ents of air are properly directed so as to obtain the best ad- vantage in making an even, firm lap that will not lick up at the card. Too much waste in the mixing will also tend to make a lap split or lick up at the card. THE CARD should have a draft of not less than 100. The settings should be the same as given in a previous lesson and the cyl- inder and doffer stripped three times a day. The cylinder and doffer should be ground onoe a month and the fiats about once in every three weeks. The weight of the sliver at the front should be about 05 grains per yard. Use the same count of wire for cylinder and doffer as given in the last article. The card sliver is put through three processes of drawing. In some mills the cotton is put through a railway head. This machine doubles from S to 16 ends and this at the front passes through a trumpet, which auto- matically evens it. When this process is used, one process of drawing frames is left out. The weight of the sliver at the front of the finisher drawing should be about 70 grains per yard. See that your leather top rolls are well varnished and otherwise In perfect condition. The following directions will be found excellent for making the varnish to use on the rolls: three ounces glue (use a gelatin fish glue), one ounce of acid (acetic). Let this dissolve and then add color and 10 or 12 drops of oil of origanum. In warm weather a little borax may be added. The sliver is taken from the drawing frame and run through the slubber, where it is made into a .50 hank rov- ing. The slubber roving is then put througth THREE PROCESSES OF FLY FRAMES for both warp and filling yarns, the hank roving being as follows: First intermediate, 1.50; second interme- diate, 4 and 7.50 hank at the jack frame for the warp yarn and 8. for the filling yarn. See that your fly frame rolls are spread to the proper distance and look out for the shape of your full bobbins to see that the taper of the ends is neither too blunt nor too sharp. If the former, it is liable to run over both on the frame and in handling,and if the latter,only a small amount of roving can be wound on each bohbin. The warp yarn is spun in the ring spinning frame, but the filling yarn ma;/ be either spun on a ring frame or a mule, but is generally done on the former machine. The par- ticulars for a v/arp frame spinning 36s yarn has already been given in a pre- vious lesson. Those used for a filling frame spinning 40s are as follows: Gauge of spindles, 2% inches; diame- ter of ring, 1 5-16 inches; length of traverse, 5'^ inches; speed of spindle, 8,800 revolutions per minute; twist per inch, 23.72. The warp yarn is then spooled, warped and put through a slasher. Dyeing Particulars. Silesias are dyed on the jig ma- chine at the full width of^the piece. CREAM. A few grains of fast cotton yellow C Ex, 5 pounds Glauber's, one-half pound sal soda. LIGHT ECRU. 1-16 ounce fast cotton yellow C Ex, 1-16 ounce, direct orange T G. ECRU. 1-16 ounce fast cotton yellow C Ex, 1^4 ounces fast cotton brown G, 5 pounds Glauber's, i/^ pound sal soda. LIGHT SLATE. 2 ounces fast ootto'n yellow C Ex, 4 ounces direct black S. 5 pounds Glaub- er's, y2 pound sal soda. SLATE. 1 pound direct black S, 4 ounces fast cotton yellow C Ex. 10 pounds Glau- ber's, 1 pound sal soda. DARK SLATE. 2 pounds diamine black B H,4 ounces diamine fast yellow A. 4 ounces oxy- diamine black A, 20 pounds Glauber's, 2 pounds sal soda. LIGHT DRAB. 4 ounces diamine fast yellow A, 4 ounces diamine brown B, 4 ounces A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 97 diamine black B H, 10 pounds Glau- ber's, 2 pounds sal soda. DRAB. '/^ pound diamine fast yellow A, V^ pound diamine black B H, 6 ounces diamine brown B, 10 pounds Glauber's, 2 pounds sal soda. LIGHT TAN. % pound diamine fast yellow A, % pound diaminerai brown G, 10 pounds Glauber's, two pounds sal soda. TAN. 1 pounds diamine catechine 3 G, 1 pound diamine fast yellow B, 10 pounds Glauber's, 2 pounds sal soda. OLD GOLD. ?. pounds diamine fast yellow B, 2 pounds diamine catechine 3 G, % ounce diamine black B H, 10 pounds Glau- ber's, 2 pounds sal soda. PEARL. 1-16 ounce diamine brilliant blue G, 5 pounds Glauber's, 1 pound sal soda, aftertreated % per cent copper sul- phate. SKY BLUE. 6 ounces diamine sky blue F F, ri pounds Glauber's, i/^ pound sal soda. BLUE. 2 pounds diamine blue R W,5 pounds Glauber's, ^ pound sal soda. RED. 6 per cent primuline, 25 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. Diazo'tized 1% per cent nitrate soda 5 per cent sulphuric acid. Developed two pounds beta naphtol. SCARLET. 4 pounds benzo fast scarlet 4 B S, 30 pounds Glauber's, 3 pounds sal soda. MAROON. 5 pounds tetrazo corinth B, 30 pounds Glauber's, 3 pounds sal soda. HELIOTROPE. Vz pound heliotrope B B, 10 pounds Glauber's, % pound sal soda. PINK. Vz pound tetrazo pink B U, 20 pounds Glaxiber's, Vq. pound sal soda. YELLOW. XVi pounds chlorine yellow G G, 20 pounds Glauber's, 2 pounds sal soda. ORANGE. 2 ipounds benzo fast orange S. 30 pounds Glauber's, 3 pounds sal soda. DARK GREEN. 3 per cent benzo dai"k green G G, 2 per cent chrysophenine, 1 per cent .di- rect black B. GREEN. 3 per cent brilliant benzo green B, ^ per cent chrysophenine, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. NAVY BLUE. 5 per cent diazo black B H N, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. LIGHT BROWN. 6 per cent thion brown G, 6 per cent sodium sulphide, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent soda ash. BROWN. 6 per cent diamine brofwn B, 1 per cent diamine yellow B, 1 per cent dia- mine catechine G. 30 per cent Glau- ber's, 3 per cent sal soda. DARK BROWN. 2 per cent benzo fast black, 2% per cent benzo fast red L, 4 per cent chrysophenine, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. BLACK. 15 per cent thion black B, 15 per cent sodium sulphide, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's. LAWN. Lawn is a Light-weight, single cloth wash fabric, weighing from 1^^ ounces to 2V4 ounces per yard and in widths from 36 inches to 40 inches finished. It is composed of all cotton yarns (bleached) from l-40s itio about 1-lOOs, and is always woven with a plain weave '— r • PLAIN LAWN is made of solid wQiite or bleached yarn in both the warp and filling. The fancier grades, or those having a color effect, are produced by printing vines, floral stripes, small flowers, etc., in bright colors, in scattered effects upon the face of the goods, the warp and the filling in all cases being bleached yarns. The patterns are always pnM- ed, never woven. Lawn is made in various grades ranging in price from 5 cents to 12^^ and 15 cents per yard, and it is used principally in the manufacture of la- dies' and children's summer dresses, sash curtains, etc. Being a rather sheer fabric, lawn is best adapted to 98* A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. ithose lieht runndng looms in. wthioh the action of siieidding is easiest upon tlh'e.fine yarns used in this style ol goods. The warp for this fabric is dresised or beamed upon a regular dressing frame. It is then drawn in on 4 harnesses to permit of freedom in shediding. The plain weave requires but two harnesses, 'but where there are a great number of ends in the warp, the yam would be very maich cirowded if tih'e warp was drawn in on two har- nesses. Therefore, four or more har- nesses are used. Lawn, when finiiShed, should have a very sioft, smooth feel. Therefore the finishing process incluides brush- ing, very light starching or sizing, t!hen calendering or pressing. 16 S'quare inches equals 6.9 grains. 40x36 equals 1,440x6.9 equals 9,936 divided by 16 equals 621 divided by 437.5 equals 1.419 ounces per yard, 40 inches wide finisheid. 40 pieces' white warp yam x 3^ in- mamamama omamamam mamamama amamamam mamamLma amamamam mamamama Weave amamamam mamamama Drawing-inDraft aammaamm mmaammaa Reed Plan ohes equals 140 inohes equals .5 girainsL 140x7,000 equals 980,000 divided by .5 equals 1,960,000 divided by 36 equals 54,444 divided iby 840 equals 1-6 6s cotton warp. 46 pdeces whiite filling yam x 2^ inches equals 100 equals .35 grains. 100x7,000 equals 700,000 divided by .35 equals 2,000,000 divided by 36 equals 55,555 divided by 840 equals l-66s cotton filling. CONSTRUCTION. 40 inches finished. 64 ends per inch finiisihed, 62 picks per inich finished equals 60 ends in reed and 58 picks in loom. Reed, 1,080; 42% inohes in reed. 2 ends per dent. 5 per cent take-up on warp in weav- ing. 64@40 equals 2,560 ends pins 5 pet cent take-up equals 2,694 yards. 62 picks X 40 inches equals 2,480 yards'. 2,694 yards, l-66s cotton warp equals .748 ounces; 2,480 yards, l-66s cotton filling equals .712 lounces, total, 1.400 ounces. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The counts of yarns from whicih lawn is made vary according to the quality of Lawn being made. This varies from 40s to 100s. The yarns are made in the third division of mills, as given in a previous lesson or those mills which make high count yaxns. In this article we will consider the warp yarn to be 60® and the filling yarn to be 100s. For 'tlhese two counts raw stock of twio different lengths of staple and grade of yaim would be used. For 100s a Sea Island cotton of about 1%-inch staple may be used and for ithe warp yarn an Allen cotton of about li^ inches staple. The two cottons would be treated differ- ently at eveiry process and so we will describe the two cottons at each proc- ess. The Allen cotton would be put through the bale breaker, in the man- ner ascribed in the article of last week, and carried ito its proper bin. At this point the GOOD WASTE IS MIXED IN. It is not the general custom to run the Sea Island cotton through the bale breaker, but to mix it by hand great care should be taken that all the bales mixed are of a uniform length and that the grade of each bale is up to standard. Those bales not up to standiard should be shipped back to tihe broker. The good waste is mixed in at this point, but be sure itihat the waste boy only puts in Sea Island cot- ton for, if a shorter staple cotton gets in, it will cause trouble at subsequent machines. The Allen cotton is put through two iprocesseis of picking and an opener. For this class of cotton thiree processes of picking would be better, for, as it is a very dirty cot- ton, the extra picking would help to clean it. The speeds of all the pick- ing machines previously given may be used for this cotton. The weight of the lap at the breaker picker should be about 40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap. The dou'blings are four into one at the finisher, the total weight being 3.5 pounds or a 12-ounce lap. If an inter- mediate picker is used, the total weight of the lap should be about 37 pounds or a 12-ounce lap. The SEA ISLAND COTTON is only put through an opener and one process of picking, the reason for this being that the sitaple is so long that if two processes are used the ex- tra beating that it receives tends to put neps into the staple. The speeds of the opener are slowed down and the speeds of the finisher parts are as fol- A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 99 lowsi; The speed of a rigid two-blad- ed beater stiould njot exceed 1,000 rev- olutions per minute. The total weight of the lap should be about 30 pounds OT abouiti a 9-O'un.ce lap to the yard. The roving waste s:hould be mixed in at the finisher picker process, as pre- viously explained. The cards should be S'et close for both cottons, the main difference ibeing in the setting of the feed roller to the licker-in, which should be set -according to the length of staple. The usual poimts thaiti have been given in previous lessons should be looked out fox when riunning Allen cotton, the weight of the silver in front being 65 grains to the yard an-d the production being about 500 pounds for a week of GO hours, the draft be- ing not less than 100. For Sea Island ADDITIONAL CARE has to be taken; also certain speeds have to be altered. It has been found that by slowing the speed of the lick- er-in less neps are put into the cotton and still the cotton is cleaned. In fact, one oiverseer usiag this class of cotton lagged >his licker-in pulley so as to ob- tain an extra diameter of li/^ inches and found the results excellent, the sliver showing fewer neps than when the usual speed of the licker-in was used. On this cotton it is the general praci'lice to use high drafts and some- times la draft of 165 is used, but for general purposes a draft of about 130 is used. The flats are speeded so as to make one complete revolution every 45 minutes, the extra speed being ob- tained by lagging the pulley on the cylinder that drives the flatis. This, of course, takes out more waste, but it makes less work for the combers to do. The weight of the sliver at the card is about 45 grains per yard. Strip and grind cards the same as stated in previoius articles. THE WIRE FILLET- used for cards making sliver for high class yarns is geoierally firmer than thait previously given, and if cards are used for high count yam the size of the fiilet should be as follows: Cylin- der No. 34 wire or 110s English count; doffer and top flats, No. 36 wire or 130s English count. The production of a card on Sea Island cotton varies from 325 to 450 pounds per week of 60 hours. Four hundred pounds is a good average. From the cards both ooltons are taken to the comber room and the doublings at the sliver lap are 14 into one. The weight of the Allen lap at the front is 320 grains per yard and the Sea Island weighs 250 grams per yaird. The cottons are then put througih the ribbon lap miaoMne, where the Allen is douibled 6 into one, but it is the general custom to double the Sea Island only 5 into one, the weiglht of lap at the front end being 260 grains per yard for Allen and 200 grains for Sea Island. The laps aire taken to the combers, where they are donbled 6 into one. The speed of the comibers should be abouiti 85 to 90 neps per minute for Allen and 75 to 80 for Sea Island. The amount of waste taken out at the comber i® important, a good average for Allen is 18 per cent and for Sea Island 20 to 25 per cent. The WrBIGHT OF THE SLIVER for Allen is about 42 and for Sea Island about 36 grains per yard. After passing through ithe comber the sliver is put through two processes of drawing, the weight of the sliver at the front being 60 grains per yard for Sea Island and 70 grains for Allen. On all machines when leather top rolls are used for Sea Island, stock should be kept in the best of shape and oiled and varnished frequently. The speed of itihe front roll on the finisher draw- ing for Sea Island should be about 320 reivolutions per minute or 80 revo- lutions per miniute slower thian for Allen. The slubber draws the sliver into .50 hank roving for Allen and .80 hank for Sea Island. The Sea Island is put through three processes of fly frames, the hank roving ibeing as fol- lows: First initiermediate, 2.25; second intermediate, 5.00; jack frame, 18 hank; and for Allen: Firsit interme- diate, 1.50; second intermediate, 4.00-; jack frame, 12 hank. The twist per inch put into Sea Island cotton is a little less than the usual amount used for either cottons, the standard for jack frames being square root of hank X 1.2. The filling yam is mule spun and the warp yam ring spun, the following particulars being used: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, iVz inches; length of traverse, 6 inches; speed of spindle, 10,000 revo- lutions per minute; twist per inch, 34.86. The warp yarn is then taken to tihe spoolersiand from here tothe warp- ers, where it is run on beams and tak- en to the slasiher. The following i® a good size to use: 100 gal. water, 54 pounds potato starch, 2 pounds York- shire gum, iy2 pounds soa^). Finishing Particulars. Lawns have to be very carefully handled in the .bleaching process. 100 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. Tiey are starched with on ordinary starch mangle with from 8 to 12 ounces best white German dextrine per gallon, mixed oold, and boiled for ■one hour, with a little blueing added to shade required. They are then finished on the &tent- er maehine, dryed with hot air, care being taken to keep the pieces per- fectly straight. Some ibleachers handle each piece separately from start of process to finish, bleaching, starching by hand in a tub and drying in a frame in the stenter sitove. By so do- ing the ipieces do not get drawn and Dhe filling is always stiraight across the piece. Lawns a-re often tinted light shades of blue, pink, cream, ecru, pearl, green and other light tints with direct colors added to the starch, tihe direct colors being used generally. The ba- sic and acid colors are also tinted to make bright colors. TARTAN PLAIDS. Tartan plaid is a narrow, light- weight, single cloth fabric, weighing from 2 to 214 ounces per yard finished, and is composed of regular cotton yarns from l-20s to l-26s in warp and DGBMuGaa ommaamma ■ ■ZlGBBDn ■Gnaanaa OGGaGDaa DGananaQ aaGGDaon acGGacDG Drawing-in Draft OGaBGGBB aacGaaaa Reed Plan filling. It is always woven about 23^^ inches in the reed, to finish about 22 inches wide. This is done to prevent it from coming too close to the .ging- ham lines. Tartan plaids are generally woven with a — 4.5 degree, right hand twill weave, and are always woven in plaid patterns in imitation of the im- ported worsted fabric of this name. Each line of patterns has a stand- ard name, which represents a signifi- cant style of color arrangement, such as Rob Roy, dress Stewart.Royal Stew- art. Malcolm, Fraser, McGregor, Sin- clair. Goi-don, Drummond, Macpher- son. etc. Those colors most used are red, green, black, white, brown, drab, wine, dark green, scarlet, dark blue, etc. IN THE ROB ROY STYLE the pattern takes the form of a broad, two-colored check, li4xli^ inches, either black and red, or black and white, viz.: 72 black!. 72 red in warp and filling. The dress Stewart pat- tern is composed principally of white yarn. The Royal Stewart has a de- cided red color effect. The Gordon pat- tern a very green color effect, etc. Aniline colors are used in dyeing the yarns for this fabric, the warp yarns being given an extra run, to insure an even shade, which, while not being ex- actly a fast color, is strong enough to withstand the action of a rather wet finish (gingham finish). The Fairmount 4x1 box roller loom is used for the 2, 3 and 4 shuttle tar- tan plaids and the Knowles 4x4 ging- ham loom for those styles having more than four colors in the filling. The warps for this fabric are ordered from the spinner in either 720 yards, l.OSO yards, 1.200 yards or 1,500 yards lengths, and have either 1,000 ends, 1,200 ends, 1,400 ends, or 2,000 ends, in them. The most popular are 720, or 1,080 yards and L400 ends. The warp is dyed in bulk and the necessary number of ends of each col- or are then split oft'. When all the colors have been split or separated, the splittings, or separated bunches of ends of each color, are assembled in the beaming frame, and the yarn is ar- ranged as per pattern in the rathe comb, and the warp run through this rathe on to the beam. After beaming the warp is drawn in in the regular manner. To finish this fabric, the goods are taken from the loom and run through the brusher, then through the sprink- ler, after which they are very lightly sized, then run upon the tentering machine to prevent undue shrinkage in width, also to assist in drying, then calendered, but not to a glossy finish. CONSTRUCTION. Stj^le — Rob Roy — finished 22 inches wide; reed, 1,080 — 23^; inches in reed, two ends per dent; l-26s cotton warp — 10 per cent take-up; l-22s cot- ton filling — 40 picks; , 45 degree. right-hand twill weave. 16 ends extra for selvedge. "Warp pattern: 72 black x 72 reed, total 144, all equal 9 patterns plus 112 ends. A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 101 1424 ends in warp (including sel- vedge). Start 29 red at x. end 28 red at x. 704 ends black plus 10 per cent equals 780 yards l-26s warp equals .5715 ounce; 720 ends red plus 10 per cent equals 800 yards l-6s warp equals .5860 ounce; 48 picks times 23^ equals 5G4 j'ards, l-22s filling equals .488 ounces and 564 yards. l-22s filling equals .488. ounce, equals 2.1335 ounce. 2.1335 ounces per yard, 22 inches wide. Finish — verj^ light size, tenter, cal- ender. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yarns used in the manufacture of tartan plaids are made in mills of the first and second division.as given in a previous lesson. The counts of yarn vary according to the mill in which they are made and the counts taken as examples for this article are l-22s filling yarn and l-26s warp yam. The cotton used for these goods is of a fair grade and a staple varying from •% inch to 1 1-16 inches. We will consider the staple to be one inch. The cotton is stapled and put through a bale breaker and from here is passed by a series of lattice aprons to the mixing bin. Use as large a mixing as possible at one time, because the less mixings the evener the yam will be. The good waste from the machines up to the slubber is mixed into the raw stock at this point, the collections of this waste being made at regular in- tervals. The raw stock is sometimes put through TWO PROCESSES OP PICKING and an opener and sometimes through three processes of picking and an opener. It has been found, that two processes of picking will clean the cotton properly, and at the same time will not be so apt to put neps into it. When two processes of picking are used, the particulars of the intermedi- ate picker given below maj' be dropped, the other particulars remaining the same as given. The hopper or feed box of the opener should always be kept at least half full and generally a porcupine beater is u!?ed. The speed of this beater should be about 1,0,^0 revolutions per minute, with a fan- speed of 350 revolutions per minute. The cotton is then passed to the feed rolls of the breaker picker. Keep the pin beater of this machine free from cotton, as it has to be watched to see that the sliver waste does not tangle around it. This roll is more trouble- some on some makes of machines than on otbers. The SPEED OP THE BEATER (which generally is of a two-bladed rigid type) is 1,500 revolutions per minute,the fan speed being 1,400 rero- lutions per minute. The weight of the lap at the front should be about 40 pounds total weight or a 16-ounce lap. Some system of marking has to be employed so that the laps of other grades and lengths of staple will not become mixed and thus cause trouble later on. Of course, like staples and weights of laps may be placed togeth- er, but it is the general custom to mark the laps at the end as they are taken off the machine with different colored crayons. For example, 1 1-16 may be marked brown. 1% blue, ] 1-16 sal- mon, etc. This is not generallj^ done at any except the finisher picker. The laps are doubled four into one at the intermediate picker, the speed of the beater being 1,450 revolutions per minute, and the speed of the fan 1,050 revolutions per minute. The weight of the lap at the front is about 37 pounds. These laps are put up at the finisher picker and doubled four into one. It is at this point that THE ROVING WASTE is mixed in in a proportion of one lap of roving waste to three laps of raw stock. The cotton receives about 42 beats per inch fed. The total weight of the lap is about 39 pounds. or about a 16-ounce per yard lap. The speed of the beater is about 1,500 revolu- tions per minute, and the speed of the fan 1,100 revolutions per minute. The laps are then put up at the card. The card is set to accommodate this stock as described in a previous lesson, the speed of cylinder being 160 revolutions per minute. The speed of the licker-in is 300 revolutions per minute. Flats make one complete revolution every 40 minutes. The draft should not ex- ceed 100. Use a large diameter doffer. Strip three times daily and grind at least once a month. The weight of the sliver is 65 grains per yard. The production is about 900 pounds per week of 60 hours. The sliver is then put through T1[REE PROCESSES OF DRAWING, being doubled six into one, the speed of the front roller being 400 revolu- tions per minute, the weight of drawing at the finisher being 70 grains. Some of the points that are to be looked out for are as follows: 102 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. Sitop motions, rolls, laps and oiling. The sliver is next taken to the slubber and made into .40 hank roving,the usual standard for twist being used. Look out for the shape of j^our bobbins The slubber roving is put through three processes of fly frames, doubling two into one. The hank roving at the first intermediate is 1.10, at the second 2.70 hank and at the jack fra-me five hank. The rovings are then taken to the spinning room and made into the re- quired yarn. THE FILLING YARN may he taken to either the mule or ring spinning room. If taken to the ring spinning room, the following are good particulars to use for frame making 22s yarn: Gauge of frame,2?^ : diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, Gi^inches; twist per inch, 15.- 25; speed of spindles, 7,400 revolutions per minute. For a warp frame spin- ning 26s use gauge of frame, 2% -inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, G inches; speed of spindles, 9,700 revolutions per minute. The warp yarn is then spooled, warped and put through a slasher. Dyeing Particulars. RED. 4 per cent diamine fast red F, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. GREEN. 1% per cent diamine sky blue FF, 1^/^ per cent diamine fast yellow FF, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. BLACK. 15 per cent thion black G, 15 per cent sulphide soda, 30 per cent salt; 3 per cent soda ash. BROWN. 5 per cent benzo fasit orange S, 2 per cent chrysophenine, 2^^ per cent benzo fast black. 30 per cent salt, 2 per cent soda ash. DRAB. % per cent benzo fast black, ^ per cent chrysophenine, 3 ounces benzo fast red G L, 30 per cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda. SLATE. % per cent benzo fast black, V4, ounce chrysophenine, Va ounce benzo fast red GL, 30 per cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda. SCARLET. 5 per cent diamine scarlet B, 30 per cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda. DARK GREEN. 6 per cent diamine black HW, 4 per cent diamine fast yellow B, 30 per cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda. WINE. 6 per cent diamine Bordeau B, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. BLUE. 4 per cent brilliant benzo blue 6 B, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. DARK BLUE, 15 per cent pyrogene indigo B, 15 per cent sodium sulphide, 30 per cen;t salt, 3 per cent soda ash, 2 pints mineral oil. YELLOW. 2 per cent chloramine yellow M, 30 per cent Glauber's, 2 per cent soda ash. BAYADERE. Bayadere is a fabric in which the pattern consiiats of a stripe running across the width instead of the length of the material. Such patterns are almost entirely confi.ned to ladies' and children's dress goods, and may be composed entirely of cotton, as in the cheapest grades, of cotton and worsted in the medium, or entirely of worsited or worsted and silk in the best grades. The fabric considered in this article is a medium grade cloth of ladies' dress gO'Ods, and is compoised of worst- ed, silk and cotton and weighs 5% ounces per yard, 36 inches wide, fin- ished. The pattern is a zigzag stripe, ex- tending across the fabric in the direc- tion of the weft on a rep ground. Figure 1 shows the full design for the one repeat of the pattern, and is complete on 132 warp threads and 30 picks. Figure 2 is the drawing-in draft and is complete on 13 harnesses. Figure 3 is the reeding plan. Figure 4 is the chain draft. The arrangement of the warp and we^t threads is as follows: Warp, 2 threads blue 2-50s worsted A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 103 (xx Ohio), 1 thread brown 2-60s cot- ton (carded peeler) ; 3 threa:ls in pat- tern. Weft, 1 pick light blue 40-2s spun «ilk, 2 picks brown, 20-cut cotton "adere are made up of worsted and silk yarns. For this article we will consider that the fabric is composed of all three kinds of raw stock, worsted, silk and cotton. For the warp, 2-60s yarn is used and for the filling a 20-cut cotton yarn is used. The filling yarn is spun in a woolen mill and so THE WARP YARN will be the one considered under the above heading. For this count of yam a peeler cot- ton is used of about 1^4 inches staple. This cotton should be of a good grade- and should be run through a bale breaker. The principal part of the mixing is done at the bale breaker for this cotton. The cottton is brought from the storehouse and sampled and the bales having the same length of staple are put together. Those hav- ing a staple or grade not up to m.ark are laid one side. Several bales are opened and placed around the bale breaker and the attendant feeds from each bale alternateily until all the cot- ton is gone. As many bales as pos- sible and convenient should be opened Fi£ and placed around the bale breaker at one time because a MORE EVEN MIXING- will thus be obtained and the yam will run a great deal evener. After passing through the bale breaker the stock is conve^'ed automatically to the mixing A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 105 bins. If the mixing is done by hand, the same points have to be looked out for, the only diffeTeince being that sev- eral hands are used instead of a ma- chine. At the bins the gool waste is mixed. The raw stock is then passed through two or three processes of picking and an opener. If only two processes of picking are iisied, then the particulars given for the intermediate picker may be left out,the other partic- ulars given remaining the same. The hopper of the opener should always be kept more than half full. The speed of THE BEATER is 1,050 revolutions per minute. Gen- erally a porcupine style of beater is used for this machine, with a fair speed of 350 revolutions per minute. The cotton is then passed to the breaker picker. The speed of tJb.e beater (two-bladed rigid type) is about 1,500 revolutions per minute, that of the fan, 1,400 revolutions per minute. The weight of the laps at the front shoaild be about 40 pounds, or a iG-ounce lap. The laps are put up at the intermediate picker and doubled four into one. The speed of the beater should be 1,450 revoluitions per minute. That of the fan 1,050 revolutions per minute. The Aveight of the laps at the front end should be about 37 pounds, or a 12-ouncelap lor peeler cotton to make this class of goods. The laps are put up at the finisher picker and doubled four into one. It is at this point that the CUT ROVING IS MIXED IN (it having beien previously put through a special picker, which takes out the twist and leaves it in a fluffy, untwist- ed state and then it is put through a picker and made into a lap of the same weight as the laps from the in- termediate piclver), in the proportinn of three laps of raw stock to one lap waste. The speed of the beater for this machine is 1,450 revolutions per minute, with a fan speed of 1,100 revo- lutions per minute. This gives the cotton passing through 42 beats or blows jier inch. The weight of the lap at the front is 35 pounds, or a l-Vo- ounce lap. Watch all the points that have previously been pointed out. The variation from standard should not be over 8 ounces either side for the to- tal lap. The lap is next taken to the card. The SETTINGS OF THE CARD for this division of mills have been previously given. The draft should not exceed 100; speed of licker-in, 300 revolutions per minute; speed of flats, 1 revolution every 45 minutes; . weight of sliver,,. 65 grainis; production about 650 pounds for week of 60 hours. Sitrip thre'e times a day, grind once a month, and use as large a doffer as possible. The slivem is next pn^t through three processes of. drawing, the doublings at eiach process^ being six into one. the weighit of tihe finisher drawing being 72 grains per yard, and the revolutions per minute, of front roll 350. Either metallic or leather covered rolls may be used art; this machine. If the formfer are used, see that they are properly siet and k^ep them v/iell scoured; if the latt.er aire used, keep them in gO'Od repair, weil varnished, and oiled. For this length of staple the following SETTINGS of the boittom steel rolls may be used: Front roll to second roll, 1^^ inches; second roll to third, 1% inches; third roll to back, 1% inches. The sliver is put through the slubber and made into .55 hank roving. Three processes of speeders or fly frames are used, the hank roving being as fol- lows: at first intermediate 1.50; at the second, 4, and at the jack frame, 12. The usual points are to be looked out for in conneiotion with fly frames. The roving is then passed to the spinnling room and made into 60s yai-n. For a warp frame maldng this count use the following particulars: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, \% inches; length of traverse, 6 inches; twist per inch, 34.86; speed of spindle, T0,000 revolutions per minute. The yarn is then taken to the twister and doubled or tv/isted into a two-ply yarn. It is then passed to the spool- er and from here to the warper and from here to the slasher. Dyeing Particulars. BROWN. 5 per cent diamine brown B, 1 per cent diamine fast yellow B, 30 per cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda. LIGHT BLUE (SILK). 1 per cent patent blue, pure, 5 per cent acetic acid. BLUE (WORSTED). 3 per cent patent blue A, 20 per oeiut, Glauber's salt, T- per cent sulphuric aoid. }«6 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. BOUGLE. Boucle is a single cloth, dress goods fabric, weighing from 7 to 8 ounces per yard, 44 inches wide finished, and com- posed of plain and fancy twist (cot- ton) yarn in warp and filling, also hav- ing a worsted loop yarn in the filling. Boucle is used princSipally as a nov- elty dress fabric for ladies' spring and fall .suitings, .the disitinguishing fea- ■■GDBaDD ■a iiBac:! DDBBODBB DBBGCBBD BBOaBaDD BaaBBGDB Weave DDDBDDDB DaBaDDBD □BDDDBDn ■aaaBoaa f ' Drawmg-in Draft DBDBDBDB BDBaBDBD Reed Flan BOUCr.E (Woolen) Warp, all brown. Filling, 3 brown. 1 worsted, 1 loop. ■ DBDI IDBOI Twist DBQBCi DB ^nanDBGcna rBrBnanBCBOBD J DBD"BwnBn»BB 1 MaBDMBanBDBB l.--iini»r^Bf"»"^BnB CnZBnaQDDBDD Weave nDDDDBnnnanB DDDGBnaDDDB J aaDBaDGQDBDD DaBGDGaaBGGU DBGaanaBaGGo BaaGGGBnGaaa Drawing-in Draft. Reed Plan BOUCLE (Cotton) ture of the cloth being the small loop in the filling yarn, whioh curls over the face of the goods. COTTON BOUQLE is gemerally made with a fancy combi- nation weave, and the all-wool grades ■with a suraJight twill weave. In the fabric boucle the loop yarn is always a vv^orsted filling thread .tw'isted wltli a single cotton thread, generally dyed black. The color effects are either solid color in warp and filling with the loop yarn in contrast, or end and end patterns, created by using fancy colored cotton twist yarns. The colors most used are: Brown, dark blue, cadet blue, light green, drab, etc, or these siame colors are twisted with a black thread for twist effects. Boucle is usually woven in the pick and pick loom, owing to the fact that there is never more than one pick of loop filling put in at one place, the ar- rangement generally being 4, 5, 6, 8 picks, cotton or cotton twist, to one pick of worsted loop yarn. The woven fabric (loom) of this name is very closely imitaJted by a knitted fabric of similar appearance, which is a light-weight grade of as- trakhan. THE KNITTED FABRIC is made of cotton yarns, woujnd in cone shape and placed upon the l^nitting frame, no warp being required, and the thread which forms the loop is a reg- ular worsited thread, dyed black and wound upon a small bottle bobbin. The loops oin the face of the cloth are formeil by the loop wheels in the machine throwing the worsted thread betweem the stitching places, upon the face of the cloth in such a manner as to form a loop. WARP PREPARATION. The yarns can be taken direct from the twister and spooled upon small fi-inch spools and these spools assem- bled in the creel rack at the warp mill and the warp made in sections upon the mill drum, and afterwards run off the drum upon the loom beam: or, the yarns are taken from the twister and the entire number of spools required are placed upon a creel rack and the whole warp made by beiing run around an upright mill drum, which is an up- right framework centred upon an axle and turned by a crank, and hav- ing a circumference of from 20 to 50 yards. If made upon an upright mill, the warp, when finished, is pulled off and beamed. To finish boucle, the goods are tak- en from the loom, and scoured in a solution of soap and cold water, after which they are rinsed in cold water, tentered and pressed. CONSTRUCTION. Reed, 720 — 49')^ inches — 1 end per dent, 20 picks per inch; 2-12s cotton warp and filling. Warp pattern: 4 black and blue twist. 2 black. A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 107 Filling pattern: 4 black and blue twist, ] black loop yarn. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The machines on which the counts of yarn are made in the manufacture of boucle will be found in the first di- vision of mills, as given in a previous lesson. The warp yarn is made from a cotton fibre, as is the filling yarn, but this class of cloth has an extra fill- ing.which is spun from a worsted fibre. This worsited filling is what is known as a loop yarn and when woven into the cloth gives it a rough surface. The loops are obtained by different meth- ods, this one being a three-ply yarn. THE YARN to make the filling warp yarns for boucle is made from raw stock having a staple of about one inch. This raw stock is generally mixed, in large quantities, by hand. If two mixings are made, it is a greiat deal better, for then one mixing can be standing and drying out while the other mixing is being used. The good waste is mixed at this point and sometimes, although on a poor quality of goods, a small per- centage of comber waste is used in the mixing. The raw stock is run through an opener and three processes of pickers. The hopper or feed box of the opener should be kept more than half full in order to obtain as even a feed as possible. The speed of the beater is 1,000 revolutions per minute. The cotton sheet is then passed on to the feed rolls of the breaker and is struck from them by the beater, which, if of the rigid two-bladed tyre, makes 1,500 revolutions per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front is 40 pounds, or a 16-ounce lap. These laps are doubled, four into one, at the intermediate picker, of which the beater makes 1,450 revolutions per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front of this machine is 39 pounds, or 141/^ ounces to the yard. The laps are next DOUBLED FOUR INTO ONE at the finisher picker. It is at this point that the cut roving waste is mixed in in the proportion of one lap cut roving to three laps raw stock. The beater of this machine makes 1,450 revolutions per minute, which gives 42 beats per inch of cotton fed. The to- tal weight of lap at the front is 39 pounds, or a 14',/^-ounce lap. It will thus be seen that the doublings in a picker room, where three processes of picking are used, will be 16 against a total draft of 14.6, the individual drafts at the pickers being about 1.86 at breaker and 2.80 at the intermediate and finisher pickers. The laps are put up at the card, the draft of which for this class of goods should not exceed 100. The speed of the licker-in is 300 revolutions per minute, the top flats making one revolution every 45 min- utes. The card fillet of work of this class should use No. 32 wire for cyl- inder and No. 33 wire for doffer and top flats (No. 32 wire equals 90s Eng- lish count and No. 33 wireequals 100s). Grind wire once a month, strip three times a day, both cylinder and doffer, although some overseers strip the dof- fer once more. The wei-jht of the sliver should be about 65 grains per yard and the card should produce be- tween 900 and 950 pounds per week of 60 hours. See that your knifeblades under the licker-in are properly set. The tYro-knife arrangement is better than the one knife. Use A LARGE SIZE DOFFER. In setting your doffer to the cylinder use a No. 5 gauge. Two processes of drawing are generally used and for this class of work it is the general custom to use metallic rolls, as they are better adapted to this class of work than the leather covered top rolls. In calculating the production turned off for metallic rolls alv^^-ays add 33 1-3 per cent over that calculated for leather covered rolls. The sliver weighs a,bout 70 grains per yard and with 400 revolutions per minute of front roll produces 2,100 pounds per week of 60 hours. The roving is then put through the slubber and made in- to 40 hank roving. It is then run through TWO PROCESSES OF FLY FRAMES, where it is made into 1.25 hank at the first intermediate and 2.oO at the sec- ond. The roving is ihen taken to the spinning room. The particulars used for a warp spinning frame making 12s yarn would be as follows: Gauge of iframe, 3 inches; diameter of ring, 2^4 inches; length of travei'se, 7 to 7%; speed of spindles, 19,000; and for a fill- ing frame spinning 12s use: Gauge of spindle, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 11/. inches; length of traverse,? inches; speed of spindle, 6.600. The yarn is then spooled, twisted into 2-ply 123 and warped, after which it is run through a slasher. 108 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. Colors for Boucle. Following are good formulas for deing boucle: BROWN. 10 per cent thion brown G, 10 per cent sulphide sodium, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 pec cent sal soda. DARK BLUE. 10 ])er cent immedial indone B, 10 per cent sulphide sodium, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. CADET BLUE. 8 per cent immedial sky blue, 8 per cent sulphide sodium, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. LIGHT GREEN. 4 per cent immedial sky blue, 3 per cent immedial yellow D, 7 per cent sulphide sodium, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. DRAB. 3 per cent thion black G, % per cent thion brown G. 3 per cent sulphide so- da, 20 per cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda. SLATE. 2 per cent immedial black N N, 2 per cent sulphide soda, 20 per cent Glau- ber's, 2 per cent soda ash. BLACK. 15 per cent immedial black N B, 15 per cent sulphide soda, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent soda ash. SCARLET. 6 per cent diamine scarlet B, 3 per cent sal soda, 30 per cent Glauber's. RED. 6 per cent benzo fast red 4 B, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. COMBED YARN GOODS — COTTON LININGS. Cotton lining is a single cloth, all cotton fabric, weighing from 2 to 2^^ ounces per yard, the goods finished at 20y4 inches, including % inch for white selvedge. All combed cotton warp yarns are used in the produc- tion of this fabric,which,when finished, is used principally in the manufacture of sleeve linings, and as a stiffening in the more expensive grades of ladies' and men's clothing. The object of treating the cotton while in the sliver state, to the addi- tional process of combing,is to further assist in the operation of straightening out, or paralleling of the cotton fibres. Combed cotton, after being spun into yarn, produces a smooth, round, even thread. SLEEVE LININGS are made of combed yarns which after being dyed the required color are glazed or polished, and this process, in connection with the weave employed, generally an eight harness satin warp effect face, gives to the yarn in cloth the appearance of a close woven hair cloth fabric. The finished fabric has a very smooth, hard, even face, though not a harsh feel. Linings are usually made in solid black color, or in fancy bright colored stripes,upou a black groun-l. The col- ors forming the stripe patterns are cherry red, cadet blue, yellow, red, brown, etc. The glazing machine consists main- ly of a large copper cylinder, four or Wcuve nnanannB DQDULjDBa DnanBDDD DaDBDnCD namnanaa manaaaan Drawing- in Draft ■■aaaaDa Reed Plan five feet in diameter. This cylinder is heated to a high degree of intensity by either gas or steam. As the cylinder revolves, there are a series of rollers working against its surface, and running in an opposite di- rection. These rollers are set in the ma- chine frame above the cylinder and at regular distances, in much the same manner as the workers and stripper on a woolen card. The yarn is fed to the machine through a pair of feed rollers, from which it passes over the face of the cylinder, and under the small rollers, or, in other words, between the cylin- der and the small rollers, after which it is delivered by a pair of rollers, sim- ilar to the feed rollers. The yarn is run through the machine twice, the object being to submit all parts of its surface to the friction, to cause the .glaze to come up. Linings can be woven in a single A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. lOL box roller or clipper loom. Lots ot trouble is thus developed by the fancy strapping required to produce the satin weave effects. Good results are obtained by using plain, single box loom, having a dobby or witch top attached. To finish this fabric, the goods are taken from the loom and lightly starched, then run through the calen- der two or three times to set the smooth, glazed finish. CONSTRUCTION. Reed, 1,000—23 inches in reed, two ends per dent; 62 picks l-30s black cotton filling, l-20s cotton (glazed warp) yarn. Warp pattern: 10 black, 4 cadet blue, 10 black, 4 yellow. Weight, about 2% ounces: finish, 20^4 inches. Eight harness satin weave; warp effect face. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Cotton linings are made of various counts of yarn, according to what grade of linings is wanted. In this ar- ticle we will consider that the cotton warp yarn is l-20s combed, and the filling yarn l-30s. The j-arn for linings of this grade would be spun in mills of the second division, as given in a previous lesson, although yarns for linings are made in all throe divisions of mills. THE RAW STOCK ueed should be of a fair grade, with a staple of about 1 5-16 inches. This is put through a bale breaker and from here carried by a series of end- less lattices to its proper bin. The bins to hold the different grades of cotton should be plainly marked on both ends, shov/ing the kind, grode and length of 3taple,sothatno mistakes will occur through guesswork. If different lengths of staple get mixed togethei it will cause a great deal of trouble at the machines, having their rolls set at a certain distance of one length of staple. The cotton is fed to the bale break- er in the manner described in the last lesson. The cotton is allowed to dry out as much as possible before being fed to the opener. The good waste is mixed in at the bins. This class of cotton passes through an opener and either two or three processes of pick- ing (generally two processes being used). If only two processes are used the particulars given for the interme- diate picker may be omitted. Use the different speeds of the opener and pickers as given in a previous lesson. The total v/eight of the lap at the front end of the breaker picker is 50 pounds, or 16 ounces to the yard. This is put up at the intermediate and DOUBLED FOUR INTO ONE and this lap at the front end has a total weight of 37 pound3,or 12 ounces to the yard. This lap in turn is put up at the finisher picker and doubled four into one. It is at this point that the cut roving waste is mixed in in a pro- portion of three laps of raw stock to one lap of cut roving. The total weight of lap at the front is 35 pounds, or 12^^ ounces to the yard. The laps are then put up at the card, the draft of which should not be less than 120. A large doffer should be used; the card should be stripped three times a day and ground at least once a month. The cylinder speed is 160 revolutions per minute; speed of licker-in, 300 revolutions per minute. The top ilats should make one complete revolution every 35 mintites. The production of the card should be 500 pounds per week of 60 houis, the weight of the sliver being 50 grains per yard. The sliver (in cans) to be used for warp yarn is collected and passed to the SLIVER LAP MACHINE, or, as it is sometimes called, the small doubler; here it is doubled 14 into 1 and made into a lap. This sheet of lap weighs 395 grains to the yard. Six of these laps are put up at the ribbon lap machine, or, as it is sometimes called, the large doubler. These are doubled into one sheet of lap, which weighs 260 grains per yard. Six of these laps .are put up at the comber and m.ade into a sliver weighing 45 grains per yard. The speed of the comber should be about 90 nips per minute. 1 he ma- chine is set so as to take out 18 per cent of waste. The draft of this ma- chine for this class of cotton should be about 27.50. This sliver is then put through two processes of drawing, the weight of the sliver at the front of the finisher drawing being 70 grains per yard. The speed of the front rolls of this ma- chine is 350 revoltitions per minute. Either metallic or leather covered top rolls may be used. The sliver is put through the slubber and made into .50 hank roving. This roving is passed through TWO PROCESSES OF FLY FRAMES, the hank roving at each being as fol- lows: At first intermediate, 1.50; at sec- ond intermediate, 4.50. This is then 110 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. takei to the ring spinning room and spun into 20s yarn, using a frame hav- ing a spindle gauge of 2% inches, a 2- inch diameter ring, a 7-inch length of traverse, a spindle speed of 9,400 rev- olutions per minute, and a twist per inch of 21.24. This yarn is next spooled, then warped, after which it is put through the slasher. The weights and processes used for THE FULLING YARNS CASHMERE TWILL. Cashmere twill is a light-weight, single cloth, weighing from 2i/^ to 3 oimces per yard, finished at 27 to 28 inches wide, and composed of about l-20s cotton warp, and l-16s to l-20s cotton or cotton shoddy filling. It is usually woven with an even or are difterent from the above. Starting uneven sided twill weave, such as . — at the card, the draft should be about . ^ 100; the flats make one complete rev- or —^ . the warp being all black, of olution every 50 minutes; the sliver dyed yarn, and "the pattern being weighs 65 grains per yard.and the pro- pointed upon the face of the goods duction is 700 pounds per week. Ihis . is then put through three processes of ^fter the weaving operation, drawing, the weight' of the sliver at THE PATTERNS the finisher drawing being 73 grains ,, „ . a ^a per yard. The slubber roving is .55 are generally small effects, produced hank. This is put through two proc- by printing drabs or grays upon the esses of flj frames, the hank roving black ground in imitation of twist being as follows: At the first interme- diate 2.00 and at the second 7.25 hank. '_ £. This roving is then taken to either the ^ ring spinning or the mule room and ■■■■■■■' spun into 30s yarn. If the former, use ■■■■■"■■ a frame having a gauge of 2% inches; «■■"■■■■ diameter of ring, 1% inches; length SSbSSSK of traverse. 6 Inches; speed of spin- weave BaaDaBSBBaaBfflBaDBasaajaasaBDaBSBaDBasB aaBaaaaaaaaBafflBanBnaaaDBDnBaDBDDBDDBDnanDBDDBDnBDGBnDB BaaaGBaaaaaaBGaBaaflDaaGBaaaaGaaaaaDaaaBaDBBaBaaaBaBaaB BGaBGGBGaBfflaBGGBaGBGGBGaanGUGGaGGBaGBaGBaGBGaBGaBaDBaa B^BaGBasBBGaasBanaa^BBGBB'ijaBGBBfflBBaBBffiBaGBasaaGBaffiaaaB GGaaaa jGBGaaafflaGGBGfflBGGBGGBGGBaGBGtJaGGaGGBGGBDCBGDBGGa aGBBGBBGBBGBBaBBGBaGBaGBBGBBGaaGaBGBBGaBGaBGBBGBBGaBaa BGGBaGaaGBGGBGGBfflGBaGBfflaBGGBGGaaGaGGBGGBGaBDQBGGBQGBCO BGaaaaBiaaSBBGBBiSBBGBB'SaBGBBffiBaGBBaBBGBBffiBBGaBffiBBDaBffiD DaBGGBGaBGaBGaaGaBGfflBGGBGSBGGaGaBGGBGQBGGaaGBaaBQGaaaB BGBflGBBGBBGBBGBBGBBGBBGBBGBBGBBGBBGBBGBBGBBGBBGBBGBBGB BGGBGaBGaBGGBGaBaaBGGBSaBGaBfflGBGQBaaBGaBQaBaaBaGBQGBaa BSBBGBaSBBGBB^aBGBBSBBGBBSBBGBBSBBGBBSBBGBa^BaaaB^BBGB aGBGaaaGaGGaGGaGGaaaaGaaGaaGGaaGaaaBaGBDaBaaBaaaafflBaaB BGaBGBBGBBGBBGBBQBBaBBGBBGBBGBBGBBGBaGBBOBBGBBGBBGBBGB BGaBGaBGGBJGBGGBGaBGQBGaBGDBaGBaGBaaBaaBaaBQGBfflaBaQBSa BGBBSBflGBBffiBBGBBSBBGBBSBflGBBffiBBGBBffiBaGBBSBBGBBiBBGBBia aGaGGaaaaGGBGaBGGBaGaGGiGaaaGBGaaDGBaaBaaBafflBa^BafflBQnB BGaaGaaGBB BBGBBGaBGaBGBaGaaGBBGBBGBBGBBGBaGBBGBBGBBGB BaGBGGBOGBGaaGaBGGBGGBGGBaGBGaBGaBaaBGaBfflaBGaBfflaBaSBDa BSBBGBBSBB BB^BBGBBSBBGBBffiBBGBBfflBBGBB^BBGBB^BBGBBaBBGB GGBajBGGBGnBGaBGGBGaBGaBaGBGDBGGBnaBaiBaaBQiBaaBaaBQGB BaBB-JBBGBBOBBaBBDBBaBBDBBDBBDBBaBaaaBOBBnaBDBBQBBDBBnS BnaBaDBaDBanBnnBDnBDnBDnBaDBnDBnDBfflnBnaafflDBnaBDDBmBan BDBBeBBOBB'SBBGaBaBBDBB^BBOaBfflBBDBBSBBaaBfflaBaBBfflBBaBBEBB manna jnBaaaaaannanDannaDDBnnaasanBBDffiBDDBnDBD^BDDBanB BGaaaaaDBaaaBaBaDBaaBaDaaaBBDBBDBBnaaDBBaSBaBBGBBaBBaa BaaaaaBaaaQDaaDaaoaDDannannaGaanDafflnaGOBDDBanBDDBDDBDa Fig. 4. In the diagram Fig. 1, which is a sectional cut of a fabric woven with the design Fig. 2, the heavy black lines represent the back warp threads, and it vill be noticed that they are raised over two of the face picks, represented by the small dots (.). The heavy dots (.) represent the back picks, which interlace with the FIGURED PIQUE. In the figured pique the binding of the back warp threads into the face cloth is not done in straight lines as in the plain pique, but the binding points are introduced so as to form figures. These fabrics are woven in the white and the figures are purely the result of binding the face and back cloths Drawing-in-Draft. □DGaaGanaGGGaaGaaaaaGGaGaaaGaaGGGaaoaGnGGnaanaaaDGGQaD DaGaGaGGaGDaaGGaGaaaGaaQGaaaGGGaaGGaaDDGaGaaGGunGBDDca DaaGGjaaDaaGGaaGGaaaaaaGaGauGGaGaaGGaGuGaGDQaaaDDGDQGG nGaaGaGaaGDGaGGGaGaGGGaaGGaGGGGGaGGDGGaGGGaaaGaaGajGaa naGaGaaaajGGGaGGGaGaaGGGaGGGaGGaGaGaGGaGBGGGaaaaGGGGGD DaGGaGDGGGGnGGGaaa ^aGaGaGGaGaaanaaGGaaGGaaGGGaQnGGaaaD DGGaGGaGaGGGGGaGOGaGaGaaaaGGQaaQQGBGaGGaaGaaGGDGGGaGnG OaaaaaGGaGGGGJGaDGGGGGGGaGGGGaaaaCGCGGaGGGGaaGQGGGQGGG naGGGGaGaGaGGGanGGaGGGaGGGGGaGGGGGGGGGGQaaQaaGGGGGaGGa DaGGaaGGGaGGGGGDGG GGQaGGBGGGGGaaGGGGGaGGGGGaaaaGGGGDD nGGaaGGaGaGaGCGauGCiaGDBGaaGQaaGaGGGGGGDaaGaaaGGQGGGQGa DGGGGaGGaGaaGGCJGaaGaGGaGGaGaaGGaaanaaaGGGGGGGaGGGGaaGn oaaGaaaGGaGaaGGGBaGGnGaGGaGGGGaaaGGGaaGGaaaaGGGGGaGGaa DGGaaGGGGaaaGBGGGaGaaGGaGGaaGGGaGaaGGGaaoaGGaaaGGGaaGG DGaGGaaGGaaGGaaaaGaaaGaGaaGnGaDGQGGGGGGaoaGGaGGaaaaaGa DGGGGaaaGGaaaDGaGaGaGGGaGaGGGGaGGaGGGGGGaaGGGGGCGGaaaa OGGGBGGGaaGGaGaGGGGaGDGaGGGaaGGGaGGGGGaGaaDaGGGGGaaGDa aBaGGaGaGaoaGGaGGGGaaGaaaaaanaGaaGDaGGaGaGGGaaaaGaGGna aaaaDBaGGaaBGaGGCBGGGGaBaaGGGBGaGGGBaGaGDBGGGaaBaGGGGB naaBDaaaQBQGaaGBGGGGGBGGGGGBGGGGGBGGGaaBGGGGGBGGGGGBGa GaBnaaGaBGaaGGBanGGaBGGaaGBGGGGGBDGaaaBaaGGGBGGGaaBaGa BaaaaaBaDDaaBnGaaaBaGGGGBGGaQGBGGGnaBaaaGGBaaaaaBGGaQa Reeding Plan. GGGBBBGGGBBBGGGBBBGnGBBBGaGBBBGGGBBBGDGBBBGGGBBBGGGBBfl BBBGGGBBBGGGaaBGGGBBBGGGBBBGGGBBBGGGaBBDGaBBBaaGBBBDGa Fig. 5. back warp threads only. The fine lines represent the face warp threads. In the heavier and better grades of pique, heavy or coarse picks, called wadding, are u.sed to increase the ■weight and also to give more promi- nence to the cord effect. They are in- troduced between the face and back together. As a result of this method of binding, the cloth is characterized by the embossed appearance of the figures. In the best grades heavy wadding picks are used and these tend to greatly heighten the raised effect of the figures. The effect produced ia about the same as when two light 116 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. cloths are laid together with wadding between and then stitched together on a sewing machine, the stitching being in the form of figures. White Marseilles bedspreads are the highest and most elaborate form of piques, and in these the pattern covers the entire spread. Geometrical figures, birds, foliage and most every conceiv- able manner of form are used, and all being embossed, the ultimate effect is very fine. In the example which we shall take, a small figure pique is given, with the following for the ANALYSIS OF THE FABRIC: Width of warp in reed (w^ithout sel- vedge), 38 inches; width of fabric fin- ished, 36 inches; ends per inch, 100; ends in warp, 3,600—1,200x3 reed. Take-up of warp during weaving, 8 Chain Draft. DBnBfflafflaDDncaDDDDnnanD ■■■■DgnaDDGDaacDDnDDaa- ■■■■gfflDffiDfflDfflDftafflafflDffinffi QBa»aaffla(BGDaDnnaDDnDDn ■■■■DaDDDDDDDnnnnaDDDa— ■nBggqnfflnfflnaDnnDDCDDDn ■■■■fflafflDfflDffiDfflDfflDffiDfflnffln nBnBDnaDfflDfflDnnDDnnDDnn ■■■■nnnnaDDnnDDnDnDDDD— ■DjicDDnDsafflDDDanDnaDn ■■■■n«nfflnianmnmn£Dnmri^r=iy c ■■■■^uu' JuuuuuanncnnnDn 5 ■nannnDnnaaffla^DDnnnnDD— U ■■■■anffln'BnssnsHnmnmlHmKym P:, Qmat iHSSHUuuLJunaaDDDnDDnna -■□■naDnnaau:3nDDDDanfflDB— ■■■■DfflnfflDfflnFBnmnmnmnSHs^ ama r«nnnnoDnnrif]orinnnnnn \gog<2aaaaaaaadawinaa ■nffln>?n®n(Sninnmnm^=^yRm .■QBDaaanaaana fflOfflDDDDaa— Fig. 6. per cent; weight of fabric, per yard, from loom, 9% ounces; shrinkage of fabric in length during finishing, 2 per cent; finished weight 9 ounces. Dressing: 3 threads in pattern. One thread l-30s white carded peeler cotton; 1 thread, 2-30s white carded peeler cotton; 1 thread, l-30s white carded peeler cotton; equals 3. Filling: 4 picks repeat of pattern, 168 picks per inch. One pick, l-30s white carded peeler cotton; 1 pick l-9s white carded peeler cotton; 2 picks, l-30s white carded peeler cotton; equals 4. In Fig. 4 is shown the full design. Fig. 5 illustrates the drawing-in draft on 22 harnesses — 4 required for the face warp threads and 18 for the back warp threads. The reeding plan is also given. Fig. 6 is the required chain draft. LOOM REQUIRED. For the plain pique a dobby loom having drop boxes and from 4 to 16 shafts only is required, but for the fig- ured pique a loom of more intricate construction is required and the Crompton & Kiiowles Loom Company build a loom especially adapted for the purpose. Their jacquard machine, which is of the rise and drop type, is especially adapted for the weaving of Marseilles quilts, and has features that dispense with the so-called "plain card," using only the figure card. FINISHING. These fabrics, after being scoured and bleached, ai'e hot pressed, rolled or folded, and are then ready for ship- ment. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Pique is made up in various ways and is constructed of yarns, the count of which varies from very coarse to very fine. The fabric which is describ- ed is considered as being made up of l-30s and 2-30s in the warp and l-30s and l-9s in the filling. For making this grade of cloth the machinery found in the second division of mills would be used. THE COTTON USED would be a good grade of "peeler," of about 1 5-16th inches staple. This cotton would be brought from the storehouse and each bale sampled; all those bales not up to sample should be laid one side. The bales of the same length of staple should be opened and fed to the bale breaker alternately from each bale in small lots at a time. From the bale breaker the cotton is carried to the bins by lattice work or by trunking and a blower and fan. The mixing should be allowed to stand in the bins as long as possible before be- ing used, so that the cotton will be " free from moisture. It is at this point that the GOOD WASTE from the machines up to the slub- ber is mixed in, the sliver being torn into short lengths before being thrown into the mixing. The raw stock is put through an opener and either two or three processes of pick- ing. If three processes of picking are used for the intermediate picker the same particulars are followed as in the case of the finisher except where not- ed. The hopper of the opener should be always kept more than half full of raw stock, so as to feed an even sheet of A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 117 cotton to the breaker picker. The speed of a porcupine beater of this ma- chine should be about 1,050 revolutions per minute. The speed of a two-bladed rigid type beater for the breaker pick- er should be 1.500 revolutions per minute, the fan speed being 1,400 rev- olutions per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front should be 40 pounds, or a 16-ounce lap. If an inter- mediate picker is used, the laps are doubled four into one and the TOTAL WEIGHT OF THE LAP at the front should be 37 pounds, or a 13-ounce lap. These laps are put up at the finisher picker and doubled four into one. At this point the cut rov- ing waste is mixed in, in the propor- tion of one lap of waste to three laps of raw stock. The speed of the beater should be about 1,450 revolutions per minute, which gives tne cotton passing through the machine about 42 beats or blows per inch. The total weight of the lap at the front should be 35 pounds, or a 12i^-ounce lap. Look out for your fan drafts to see that they are properly regulated so as to obtain an even lap. The laps are then put up at the card. THE CARD should have a draft of not more than 100. The count of wire fillet used should be medium, the wire for the tops and doffer being one number finer than for the cylinder. The card should be ground at least once a month and should be stripped three times a day. The flats should make one complete revolution every 50 minutes. Use a large doffer, either 26 or 27 inches in diameter. The weight of the sliver should be 65 grains per yard, the pro- duction for a week of 60 hours being 750 pounds. The sliver is put through three processes of drawing frames, the speed of the front roll being 350 revo- lutions per minute. The doublings are 6 into 1. The draft of the first inter- mediate is about 5.5. the second 5.75, and the third 5.75; the sliver weigh- ing at the front of the finisher about 72 grains per yard. The sliver is then put up at the slubber and made into .50 hank roving. This roving is then put through TWO PROCESSES OF FLY FRAMES, Hhe hank roving at the first interme- diate being 2.00 and at the second be- ing 7.50. This makes all the roving for this cloth, except for the 9s. This is made from a 2.00 hank roving. The roving for warp yarns is taken to the spinning room and made into 30s yarn. From here it is spooled and part of it twisted into 2-30s yarn, after which it is warped and slashed. The filling yarn may either be mule or ring spun. We will consider this yarn to be ring spun. The particulars to use for No. 30s would be as follows: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring,l% inches; length of traverse, 6 inches; speed of spindle, 8,300 revolutions per minute; to spin 9s use 1%-inch di- ameter ring, 7-inch traverse, and a spindle speed of 6,200 revolutions per minute. Part of the 30s yarn is twisted into 2-30s. Dyeing Particulars. PEARL. Dye in the jigger dyeing machine with 15 gallons liquor, 50 pounds weight of goods,175 degrees F.,one-half pound of soda ash, one-half pound sul- phide sodium, 1 pound common salt, 3 ounces immedial black V ex., 1 ounce immedial brown B. Run the goods for 40 minutes; add in two portions the dyestuffs; rinse and aftertreat with V2 per cent bichromate potash, % per cent sulphate copper, at 170 degrees F., and rinse well. Give a weak soap- ing if required. CREAM. . Dye with the same proportions as for pearl, and in the same way, with one- half ounce immedial yellow D, one ounce immedial cutch G. BUFF. Dye with same proportions as pearl, with 6 ounces immedial bronze A. LIGHT SLATE. Dye with same proportions as pearl, 6 ounces immedial black V. • DRAB. As light slate; 2 ounces immedial black V; 6 ounces immedial bronze A. LIGHT BROWN. On the jigger,as pearl; 3 per cent im- medial cutch G, 3 per cent sodium sul- phide, 3 per cent soda ash, 15 per cent common salt. LIGHT OLIVE DRAB. Dye as pearl; one-half pound pyro- gene yellow M; 14 ounces pyrogene olive N; 4 ounces pyrogene cutch 2G; aftertreat as pearl. 118 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. MADRAS GINGHAM. Madras gingham is distinctly a shirt- ing fabric and is an article of fine qual- ity. Zephyr gingham is a dress ging- ham and is lighter and of softer finish than the madras gingham. Madras gingham is distinguished from the common gingham by the fine- ness of the texture and the richness of the patterns employed. In the com- mon giagham the plain weave is chiefly used and the patterns consist only of stripes and checks formed by contrast- ing colors — principally white with some other color — and is chiefly made on roller looms. The Fabric. ,f. '1' .-?. " ' ' . "4? -I Fig. 1. In the madras ginghams VARIOUS WEAVES ARE USED in combination with the plain weave which is always used for the ground, while very often leno weaves are in- troduced for ornamentation. The number of colors used in con- junction with white often reaches as high as five and six in a single pattern, while printed yams are extensively used with fine effect. Fig. 1 is a very neat illustration of a madras gingham in a leno stripe effect. The chief features of this pattern are the leno diamond stripe on a back- ground of old rose, and the heavy cords of white and of tan. The blue stripe between the white cords is also a prominent feature. ANALYSIS OF THE FABRIC. Width of warp in reed (selvedge in- cluded), 29% inches; width of fabric, finished, 28 inches; size of reed re- quired, 1,600 — ends per dent, 2 and 3; ends in warp, 2,616. Take-up of warp during weaving as follows: l-50s plain weave, 1% per cent; 3-50s cords, per cent; 3-50s leno whip threads, 50 per cent. Number of beams required, 3 (on account of the various take-ups). Weight of fabric per yard from loom, 1% ounces. Shrinkage of fabric in length during finishing, 2 per cent. Finished weight, 1.92 ounces. Pattern for beaming: 136 threads per pattern. 19 repeats of pattern in warp. X 4 threads l-50s white cotton. 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. X 2 threads l-50s tan cotton. 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. X 10 threads l-50s white cotton. * 1 thread 3-50 white cotton. X 6 threads l-50s fr. blue cotton. * 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. X S threads l-50s white cotton. 2 threads l-50s fr. blue cotton as 1. X 8 threads l-50s white cotton. * 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. X 6 threads l-50s fr. blue cotton. * 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. X 10 threads l-50s white cotton. 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. X 2 threads l-50s tan cotton. 1 thread 3-50s white coiton. X 6 threads l-50s white cotton. 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. X 2 threads l-50s tan cotton. 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. X 10 threads l-50s white cotton. X 2 threads l-50s fr. blue cotton. * 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. X 2 threads l-50s fr. blue cotton. * 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. X 2 threads l-50s fr. blue cotton. X 8 threads l-50s white cotton. 2 threads l-50s fr. blue cotton as L X 8 threads l-50s white cotton. X 2 threads l-50s fr. blue cotton. * 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. X 2 threads l-50s fr. blue cotton. * 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. X 2 threads l-50s fr. blue cotton. X 10 threads l-50s white cotton. 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. X 2 threads l-50s tan cotton. 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. X 2 threads l-50s white cotton. Total 136 threads. Put threads marked x on bottom beam. Put threads marked on middle beam. Put threads marked * on top beam. l-50s cotton must be well sized. Number of threads of each color in A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 119 •>y.« w S^r.: ■■ b:-5CpJ.'S - ■■ m mi m Br* mm g."-*JV.VSB «_« M at ■' ■_: ■ mrm m m ■■■' rf ■ ■■«■!■■ ■ A M ■ ■ ■■ - [ bn«pJfl_F ■' ■ i ■ ■nry^ir ■ Mp ■ 1 ■-r.".". ■ ■' 1 ■ mi -. 13 11 ihy • - ;_ MM jci: -'- k A0n^ '_ ■•■■■'*'■' BSBi rtWCOQCCt l he J-H .■m::f H 5S -tth 1-K4- .Sfe .IT 11 m: oa ■a ■D S° 5" Q" RS Q" B" y* aa am ma '5 safe oa an an na DB an aa 120 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. pattern: l-50s white, 84; l-50s tan, 28; 1-50S fr. blue, 8; 3-50s white, 16; total, 136. Number of threads of each color in warp: l-50s white, 1,628; l-50s tan, 532; l-50s fr. blue, 152; 3-50s white, 304: total. 2,616. Filling: 72 picks per inch; all white 1-60S cotton. The full design is illustrated at Fig. 2, and is complete on 136 warp threads and 12 picks. The drawing-in draft is Illustrated at Fig. 3, and is complete on 7 harnesses and 2 doup shafts. Fig. 4 is the reeding plan. Fig. 5 is the harness chain draft for 12 bars. THE LOOM REQUIRED. Ordinarily to produce a leno fabric like the madras cloth above analyzed a close shed loom is required, and with the harnesses raising and lowering at every pick it necessarily requires a comparatively slow speed; but the Crompton & Knowles Loom Company build a dobby (open shed) known Chain Draft nnBCBDMDJ D DDBDBOBan a aaamamomn a ^mamamamnm d inaaBDBDBa n ^QDBDBQBna D fflfflnBDBDBin H aamamamaa n aaaacmomn n fflaBDBDBDS D Fk as the Stafford dobby.which is especial- ly adapted for the weaving of leno cloths and all descriptions of cotton goods that can be produced on 20 har- nesses, which is the limit of its capac- ity. This is the best loom that is on the market to-day for weaving these goods. The loom should be built with a 42-inch reed space and with 4x4 boxes. FINISH REQUIRED. After these goods are received from the looms they must be examined care- fully and all spots of dirt and grease removed, the selvedges trimmed and all runners (that is, filling pulling in at the sides) and also bunches and large knots must be taken out. They are then run through a starch- ing machine and given a medium starching. They are then run through a. calen- der, which flattens out the threads and removes all wrinkles and gives the cloth a much smoother surface, besides giving it an appearance of finer tex- ture. After measuring and rolling, the pieces are put in a hydraulic press and submitted to a pressure of many tons weight. They are then labeled and papered and are then ready for shipment. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The machinery required to make the yarns for madras ginghams will be found in mills of the second division, although mills of the third division (as gjven in a previous lesson) also make this grade of yarn. THE COUNT OF YARN which we will consider in making this class of goods is l-50s and 3-50s for the warp yarns and l-60s for the filling. This stock is made out of a good grade of cotton, the staple of which is about 114 inches to 1% inches in length. The cotton is brought to the picker room and sampled and graded by the over- seer in charge of the card room, al- though in large mills when a cotto.i sampler is employed he also is present at mixing time. The bales of cotton are sampled and all those of the same length are placed together. After the lot is sampled, a few (four or five) bales are placed around the bale breaker and fed to this machine, a small lot being taken from each bale alternately, until all the cotton is gone. The bagging which comes around the cotton is then placed in a pile, where later it will be picked clean of all cotton and then it is placed with other bagging, which is sold. The ties which bind the bales are also sold. THE BALE BREAKER. The draft of a bale breaker is quite large, but as the cotton is in large lumps it only acts on it by pulling it apart so that a good deal of the draft is lost. The production of a bale breaker is from 80,000 to 90,000 pounds per week. The cotton is conveyed by endless lattices from the bale breaker to the bins; sometimes«a blower and trunks are used in connection with the lat- tices. Where one is used it has been found that the cotton is in better shape to work and does not have to be dried out as long in the bins. Large mixings should always be used for the reasons given in previous articles. At the bins the sliver waste of the same length and grade of cotton is mixed into the raw stock. As this is generally done by the man that col- lects the waste, it is always a good plan to watch him to see that he puts the waste that he has collected in its A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 121 proper bin. The raw stock for this class of goods is put through a porcu- pine opener and TWO PROCESSES OF PICKING. Keep the hopper of the opener more than half full of raw stock, because by so doing a more even feed will be ob- tained and this will help to make an even yarn. The speed of the beater of the opener should be about 1,050 rev- olutions per minute. The cotton is passed up to the feed rolls of the breaker picker. There are two of these rolls, top and bottom, and they present a sheet of cotton to the beater, which is generally of the two-bladed variety. This beater has a speed of about 1,500 revolutions, per minute, and the fan a speed of 1,400 revolutions per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front end of the breaker picker is about 40 pounds, or what is called a 16-ounce lap, meaning that each yard of lap weighs 16 ounces. The laps are taken from the breaker picker and put up at the finisher pick- er, the doubling (or number of laps put up) being 4 into 1. It is at this point that the cut roving, of the same length and grade, is mixed in, it hav- ing first been put through a special process, which takes out the twist, and also a picker, which forms into a lap. The proportion of cut waste used is one lap of cut waste to three laps of raw stock. The beater of the finisher picker makes 1,450 revolutions per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front of the finisher picker is about 35, or a 12i/^-ounce lap for both warp and filling yarn. The lap is put up at THE CARD. The draft of this machine for this class of goods should not be less than 110; the wire fillet used on the cylinder should be No. 34 wire or No. 110 English count, and on the doffer and top flats No. 35 or No. 20 English count wire should be used. The cards should be ground once every three weeks and stripped (doffer and cylin- der) three times a day. The cards should be thoroughly cleaned twice a day and wiped down twice more. The speed of the cylinder should be 165 revolutions per minute, the licker- in speed 290 revolutions per minute. The top fiats should make one revolu- tion every 34 minutes. The weight of the sliver at the front end should be 65 grains, and the production 600 pounds per week of 60 hours. Use a larger diameter doffer, either 26 or 27 inches. On some grades of madras ginghams the filling yarn is ,combed, but a« we have put the cotton in this article through what is called fine card- ing we will consider that both the warp and filling yarns are to be only carded. The sliver is taken from the card and put through THREE PROCESSES OF DRAWING FRAMES. The doublings of these machines are six into one. The weight of the sliver at the finisher drawing frame is 70 grains. Look out to see that the top rolls are all properly varnished and in good re- pair, or are thoroughly cleaned if me- tallic rolls are used; see that all stop motions are in proper working order and that the help keer the machine running. The drawing sliver is put through the slubber and rnade into .50 hank roving. From here it is put through three processes of fly frames and made into 10 hank for 50s count yarn and 12 hank for 60s yarn. In 10-hank roving the hanks made at the different processes are as follows: 2 at first intermediate, 4 hank at sec- ond intermediate and 10 hank at the jack frame. For 12 hanlc it is 2 hank at first intermediate, 4 hank at second intermediate and 12 hank at the jack frame. The roving for warp yarn is carried to THE RING SPINNING ROOM and spun into 50s yarn on a frame hav- ing the following particulars: 2% inches gauge of frame; diameter of ring 1% inches; length of traverse, 6 in- ches; speed of spindle, 10,000 revolu- tions per minute. This yarn is then spooled and the yarn for the plain weave is then warped and then put through a slasher. The following mix- ing may be used for heavy counts: Water, 100 gallons; potato starch, 65 pounds; tallow, 6 pounds; Yorkshire gum, 3 pounds; white soap, 2 pounds; boil 1% hours. The 50s count yarn for cords and leno whip threads after be- ing spooled is twisted into 3-ply 50s yarn on the twister machine. The 12-hank roving for filling yarn may either be ring spun or mule spun. If ring spun, use a frame having the following particulars: for 60s gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 114 inches; length of traverse,5 inches; speed of spindle, 8,000 revolutions per minute. Dyeing Particulars. YELLOW. 1 per cent tetrazo chlorine yellow GG, 30 per cent Glauber's. 3 per cent sal 122 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. soda; aftertreat with V2 per cent blue- stone, % per cent chrome. LIGHT ORANGE. 1 per cent tetrazo chlorine orange R, 30 per cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda; aftertreat with 1/2 per cent blue- stone, V2 per cent chrome. OLD ROSE. 1/. per cent tetrazo chlorine rose, 25 per'cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda; aftertreat with Va per cent bluestone, 14 per cent chrome. LIGHT OLIVE. 4 per cent pyrogene olive N, 4 per cent sulphide soda, 30 per cent Glau- ber's, 3 per cent soda ash; aftertreat with 1 per cent bluestone, 1 per cent chrome. LIGHT TAN. 4 per cent pyrogene cutch 2G, 4 per cent sulphide soda. 30 per cent Glau- bers, 3 per cent soda ash; aftertreat with 1 per cent bluestone. 1 per cent chrome. SKY BLUE. Yz per cenfe diamine sky blue FF, 25 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda; aftertreat with ^/z per cent sulphate of copper. LILAC. 1/^ per cent aamine brilliant blue G, 25 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda; aftertreat: V2 per cent sulphate of copper. PEARL. 4 ounces diamine dark blue B, 4 ounces diamine brilliant blue G. 25 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda; af- tertreat: V2 P2i' cent sulphate of cop- per. BUFF. 2 ounces diamine catechine 3 G, 2 ounces diamine catechine B. 25 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda; af- tertreat: V2 per cent sulphate of copper, % per cent chrome. LIGHT BROWN. 10 per cent katigen yellow brown GG, 2 per cent katigen brown V, 10 per cent sulphide sodium, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 pejr cent salt; aftertreat: 4 per cent bluestone, 4 per cent chrome, 3 per cent acetic acid. DARK BROWN. 5 per cent diamine catechine B, 4 per cent diamine catechine G, 30 per cent salt, 3 per cent sal soda; aftertreat: 3 per cent bluestone, 3 per chrome. RED BROWN. 5 per cent diami^'e brown M. 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda; af- tertreat: 2 per cent bluestone, 2 per cent chrome. PINK. Vz per cent benzo fast pink, 2 B L, 20 per cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda. RED. 6 per cent primuline, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda; diazo tize and develop with beta naphthol. WINE. As red. Diazotize and develop with Bordeaux developer. SLATE. 2 per cent diamine jet black SS, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda, aftertreat with 3 per cent chrome. BLACK. 6 per cent diamine black B, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda; diazotize and develop with phenylene diamine. SULPHUR BLACK. 10 per cent immedial black V, 10 per cent sulphide sodium, 30 per cent Glau- ber's, 3 per cent soda ash; aftertreat: 3 per cent chrome. 3 per cent bluestone, 3 per cent acetic acid. LIGHT GREEN. On tannine and tartar emetic mor- dant. Dye: 1 per cent new methylene blue GG, 1 per cent thioflavine T. BLUE. On tannine and tartar emetic mor- dant. Dye: 2 per cent new methy- lene blue GG. INDIGO BLUE. 10 per cent immedial indone 3 B, 10 per cent sulphide soda, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent soda ash; after- treat: 3 per ceui sulphate of copper. ETAMINE, An etamine is a thin, slightly glossy fabric used principally for women's dress goods. Being a verj' popular ma- terial for summer wear, it is usually made in what is commonly known as a piece dyed fabric, that is, woven with undyed yam. A good reason for mak- ing it a piece dyed fabric is that it is much cheaper than if the yarn is dyed previous to the weaving. Etamines are dyed in almost any color. Blue, black, red and various shades of drabs seem to be very popular. The inter- lacing of the warp and weft is on the one and one order, or plain weave. A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 123 See design, Fig. 1. The openness or transparency of the fabric is due part- ly to the smooth, hard-twisted yarn and partly to the weave. Etamines were originally made with "worsted yarns, which, of course, are much more expensive; however, if a good quality of cotton is used there is little difference in appearance between worsted and cotton etamines. The dif- ference would be phiefly in the wearing quality, worsted of course being more durable. The principal feature of an etamine is to have it a crisp.glossy and an open fabric. ANALYSIS OF FABRIC. Width of warp in reed, 2TV2 inches; width of fabric finished, 26 inches. Reeed, BOO — 2 ends per dent. Total ends in warp 740, including sel- vedge. Take-up of warp during weav- ing, 12 per cent. Weight of fabric from loom, 3 ounces per yard; weight of fabric, finished, 3 ounces per yard. No shrinkage during the finishing process. WARPING PLAN. 1-lOs carded peeler cotton, hard twist, 20 turns per inch, a left-hand twist. FILLING PLAN. 28 picks per inch finished; 28 picks per inch in loom; 1-lOs carded peeler ■cotton, hard twist, 15 turns per inch, a left-hand twist. Notice that warp and weft are both the same twist, that is, both are a left twist. This is an important factor which cannot be ignored in making an open or transparent fabric. The warp is drawn in straight, that is, 1. 2, 3, 4 (see Fig. 3.), unti' all the harnesses are used; four harnesses would be quite enough for a fabric of this character; there being but 26 ends per inch would cause no overcrowding of heddles. Fig. 3 is the reeding plan. Fig. 4 shows the chain draft for a dob- by loom. LOOM REQUIRED. This character of fabric could be woven on any roller or dobby loom, a roller loom being preferable, princi- pally on account of the comparatively low rate of expense the latter could be operated at. FINISH. Etamines, as before mentioned, are usually woven with undyed yarns, or in the gray. The cloth, after reaching the dyehouse, is first subjected to a scouring process, then dyed, after which it is given a medium sizing; then it is calendered, which in a great measure accentuates the gloss upon the fabric and also imparts to it the crisp feeling which characterizes an etamine. It is then measured,rolled and paper- ed, after which it is ready for the mer- chant. Cotton etamine sells from 12 cents to 20 cents per yard. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The cloth of which the weaving par- ticulars have been given is some- times made of all cotton yarn or a combination of cotton and wool or cot- ton and linen, or a combination of wool, silk linen and cotton fibres. For the carding and spinning particulars of this lesson we will consider that the fabric is made up of cotton yarns in both the warp and filling. The count of the yarn we will con- sider to be 10s. THE YARNS for this class of cloth may be made in either the first or second division FuU Design DaDBOBDI ■DBDaGBD DBDBDBOB aOBQHDBD DBDBOBnB BDBDBDBa aBDBL^BDB Fig. 1. aomoaama uwDaamna BanaBnna Reed Plan naBB'DBB BBDDBBQa Fie. 3. Chain Draft PBGW BJBO DBDB ■DBD DBDB BOBD DBOB BDBD Fig. 4. Fig. 2. of mills, as given in a previous article. Generally, however, the mill of the sec- ond division is used. The cotton used would be peeler of about 1^ inches length of staple. A number of bales (enough for a mixing) should be brought from the cotton shed and placed in the picker room. The over- seer should sample each of the bales and those not up to staple should be placed to one side. Several of the other bales should be placed around the bale breaker and a little fed to the breaker from each bale alternately This will help to produce a MORE EVEN MIXING, which will help to give a more evenly finished yarn. The bales that have been laid aside should either be used in a cheaper mixture or should be shown to the cotton broker and either returned or have an allowance made for them. The bale breaker should be kept on this cotton until it is all put through. The' cotton is conveyed from 124 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. the bale breaker to the mixing bin by endless lattices,which is the old meth- od, or by having a blower and trunking and an endless lattice as is the newer and more modern method. When a blower is used in conjunc- tion with the bale breaker the cotton is in a more dried out condition when it reaches the bin and consequently it does not have to stand as long to dry out before using. A blower will pay for its first cost many times over. At the mixing bin the good waste from all machines up to the slubber is mixed in as it is collected. The cotton is next fed to the opener and WHEN A BLOWER IS USED. passed through two processes of pick- ing when the cotton is mixed by hand. These processes of picking are gener- ally used. A three-process picking and an opener are given, but when two processes are used all that is necessary to do is to drop the second or interme- diate process and use the particulars of the breaker and finisher picker. A porcupine beater is generally used in connection with the opener and this has a speed of about 975 revolutions per minute. The cotton passes from the opener to the breaker picker and after passing the feed rolls it comes in contact with the beater, which is generally of a rigid two-bladed type, the speed of which is about 1,500 revolutions per minute. The total WEIGHT OF THE LAPS at the front of the breaker picker is about 40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap. These laps are doubled four into one at the intermediate picker, the beater of this picker making 1,450 revolutions per minute and the total weight of the lap being 37 pounds or about a 12- ounce lap. The doublings at the fin- isher picker are four into one, the speed of the beater 1.450 revolutions per minute, which gives the cotton passing through it 42 beats per minute. It is at this point that the cut rov- ing of peeler stock of the same length is mixed in. in the proportion of one lap of roving waste to three laps of good cotton. The total weight of the cotton lap at the front for this class of goods is 35 pounds or a 12i4-ounce lap. The next machine through which the cotton passes is THE CARD. This machine for this class of goods has a draft of about 90. The cards should be stripped three times a day and should be ground at least once a month. The flats make one complete revolution every 35 minutes. The pro- duction should be about 750 pounds for a week of 60 hours. The weight of the sliver at the front should be about 65 grains. Use as large a doffer as pos- sible, either of a 26 or 27 inch diameter. The carded sliver is then put through three processes of drawing, the weight of the sliver at each process being as follows: 77 grains at breaker drawing, 76 grains at intermediate and 72 grains at finisher drawing, the doubling at each process being six into one. On this class of goods metallic top rolls may be used to good advantage. The sliver is next put through the slubber and made into .50 hank roving. The settings of the rolls at the slubber for this length of staple should be as fol- lows: Front roll to middle, 1^^ inches; middle roll to back, 2 inches. The cot- ton is then passed through ONE PROCESS OF FLY FRAMES and made into 2 hank roving. The roving for warp yarn is taken to the spinning room and made into 10s yarn. The following particulars are used on the warp frame: Gauge of spindle, 3 in.; diameter of ring, 2 inches; length of traverse, 7 inches; speed of spindles, 8,600 revolutions per minute. The rov- ing for the filling yarn may be either mule spun or, as is generally the case, ring spun. When ring spun, use the following particulars for filling frame spinning: 10s yarn, gauge of spindle, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 7 inches (because the filling yarn for this fabric has sufficient twist put in to stand this length of traverse), speed of spindles, 6,400 revolutions per minute. The warp yarn is then spooled, warped and run through a slasher. Dyeing Particulars. The fabric is dyed on the jig ma- chine. BLACK. 15 per cent immedial black N N, 15 per cent sulphide sodium, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's salt; rinse well, and give a soap bath. BLUE. 5 per cent immedial indone B, 5 per cent sulphide sodium, 2 per cent soda ash, 25 per cent Glauber's salt; rinse and top with 8 ounces methylene blue B, 1 pint acetic acid. BROWN. per cent immedial brown B, 4 per A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 125 cent immedial yellow D, 10 per cent sulphide sodium, 3 per cent soda ash. 30 per cent Glauber's salt; rinse and give a soap bath. GREEN. 4 per cent immedial yellow D, 3 per cent immedial indone B, 7 per cent sul- phide sodium, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's salt; rinse and give a soap bath. BATISTE. Batiste as the name implies, is of French origin, commercially under- stood to mean a light translucent cloth, made from a fine quality of combed cotton yarn, ranging in width from 32 inches to 45 inches. There Is likewise a gradual variation in qualities, ranging from a compara- tively coarse to a very fine fabric. The variations of the different qual- ities will be more apparent when we consider their commercial value. It may be of interest to our readers to note the retail prices. Cotton batiste retails at from 12% cents in 32-inch widths to 50 cents in 45-inch width per yard. The variety of qualities will suggest some idea of the utility of the fabric. Its uses are even more varied than are the qualities. The finer grades of batiste are used for dress goods, all kinds of lingerie for summer wear, pillow shams, etc., while the cheaper grades are extensive- ly used for linings in washable and unwashable shirtwaists. In this article we are confining our- selves to bleached cotton batiste, re- serving the linen and colored for some future discussion. Batiste is woven in the gray, that is, with yarn direct from the spinning frame, with the exception that the warp yam is well sized, in order to bet- ter stand the strain to which the yam is subjected during the weaving process. We will consider, first, a very fine bleached cotton batiste, of a quality made 45 inches in width, and then a very cheap grade of bleached cotton batiste, made 32 inches in width. The analysis will readily show the vast difference in these two qualities. FINE BLEACHED COTTON BATISTE Width of warp in leed, 47. S inches; finish at 45 inches; ends per inch in the cloth from loom, 94; ends per inch finished, 100; ends in warp, 4,500. Take-up of warp during weaving, 10 per cent; weight of fabric per yard from loom, 1.15 ounces; finished weight, 1.4 ounces. The difference in weight between fab- ric from loom and finished fabric is about 20 per cent, the finished goods having taken on 20 per cent of sizing material. For adding weight to cloth, China clay is used. The proportions to use depend on the character of finish de- sired. China clay produces a gritty feel, which, however, may be overcome by the use of chloride of magnesium, which is a very powerful softener as well as a weighting material. Warping plan: body of warp, 1-1203 combed Sea Island cotton, selvage 2- 100s cotton. Filling plan: 98 picks of l-200s combed Sea Island cotton. CHEAP-GRADE COTTON BATISTE. Width of warp in reed, 34 inches. Finish at 32 inches; ends per inch in cloth in the loom. 54; ends per inch finished, 58; ends in warp, 1,860; 54x1 reed. Take-up of warp during weaving, 8 per cent; weight of fabric per yard from loom, .84 ounce; finislhed weight per yard, 1 ounce; 19 per cent increase in weight. Warping plan: all l-60s combed Sea Island cotton Filling: 50 picks per inch 1-lOOs combed Sea Island cotton. LOOM REQUIRED. Batiste could be very profitably woven on a Northrop magazine loom. The fabric is a plain weave, no dobby being required. The fineness of the yarn, however, requires the use of string heddles. Wire heddles would cause too many warp breakages. The high running speed of the Northrop loom, together with the number of looms a weaver can tend, 10 to 20 looms, brings the weaving cost to a minimum. The warp should be drawn in on four harnesses, skip draw as follows: 1, 3, 2, 4 instead of straight, as 1, 2, 3, 4. Skip draws give less strain to the warp. FINISH. Batistes are given a Swiss finish; after the cloth comes from the loom it is bleached. After the bleaching proc- ess it is sized, then sprinkled or damp- ened, and then calendered, after which it is folded; then it is ready for the market. 126 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The division of mills which make "batiste" is the third of those mills which are eauipped with machinery for making fine count yarns. Batiste is made up of extra fine counts of yam, although these counts vary a great deal according to the grade of fabric want- ed. In order to do this cloth justice it will be better to first describe the processes of a coarse yarn batiste and then a batiste made up of fine yarns. We will consider the coarse fabric to be made up of l-60s warp yarn and 1-lOOs filling yam. The finer grade we will consider made up of l-120s warp yarn and l-200s filling yam. THE RAW STOCK used for both grades should be Sea Island cotton of from 1% to 2 inches staple, although 1% inches staple is the length generally used. The selec- tion of the cotton is one of the first and by many considered the most im- portant points to look out for. The lot should be sampled bale by bale and all those bales having a staple not up to standard should be thrown out of the mixing. Those bales that are se- lected as O. K., should be placed around the mixing bin and thrown in- to it alternately from each bale until all the bales for the mixing are in. At this point the GOOD SLIVER AND PICKER WASTE are mixed in. Care should be taken to see that the sliver waste is pulled apart into short lengths and that no other waste is thrown into the bins by mis- take, because a small lot of short staple waste can cause a great deal of trouble later on. Some overseers use only an opener and one process of picking, others use two processes of picking with the opener. It is the general cus- tom to use only an opener and one process of picking for these fine counts. The general instructions that have been given in regard to openers should be followed. The speed of the beater (rigid type) should be reduced so that the cotton should only receive 29 beats per minute. The weight of the lap at the front end of the picker (when one picker is used) should not exceed 30 pounds and from this range to 25 pounds. A GOOD WEIGHT per yard for the grade of fabric under description is 9 ounces. The machines should be carefully looked into to see that they are all kept clean and prop- erly set. The laps are taken to the cards. At this point, as at a great many others, overseers differ as to the best means of procedure. Some use a large draft at the card and only one process of combing.and others use lower drafts and two processes of combing. In this lesson we will assume a large card draft and one process of combing for all counts of yarn in both grades of batiste. The speed of the licker should be reduced from about 350 revolutions per minute to 275 or 280 revolutions per minute. This is done by lagging the licker-in pulley. The wire fillet used on the cylinder should be No. 34 wire (American count, or 110s English count), and on the doffer and top flats No. 36 wire, or 130s English count. THE FLATS should be speeded up to take out as much waste as possible. The cards should be stripped three times a day and ground so as to keep the wire sharp. The settings used should be very close and care should be taken to see that the cotton is not broken in staple at the card. A great many times, if the cotton is sampled at the front of the card, it will be found to be shorter than when entering. This may be and is generally caused by an improper setting of the feed plate to the licker-in. While this applies di- rectly to long staple cotton, still all cottons should be looked into carefully to avoid shortening the length of the staple. It is very important to keep the cards clean so that as little dust and dirt will go inlo the sliver as possible, because, if this dirt gets past the combers, it will show up in the cloth, as the thread or yarn is so small. The PRODUCTION FOR A CARD making this class of goods should not exceed 275 pounds per week, the weight of the sliver being about 30 to 35 grains per yard. The draft for this class of goods should not be less than 150. The card sliver is taken to the comber room and doubled 14 into 1 at the sliver lap, and the laps from this machine are taken to the ribbon lap machine and doubled 5 into 1. The weight of a yard of lap at the front of the ribbon lap machine should be about 160 grains. These laps are pift up at the comber and doubled 6 into 1. The speed of the comber for this stock should not exceed 180 nips per min- ute. For this weight of web a double row of teeth in the top comb would give THE BEST RESULTS. Care should be taken to see that all needles in the top are straight and that the comber is absolutely free from dirt at all times. The table of A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 127 the comber should be gone over twice a day with whitening so that the sliv- er being drawn over it will not stick. The percentage of waste taken out should be about 25. These processes will answer for all the counts except for the 200s, which should be double combed, i. e., after being put through the combers once should be run through the sliver lap machine and then through the combers again. After passing through the combers the sliv- er passes through two processes of drawing. At these machines the sU.v- er is doubled six into one, the speed of the front rolls at each frame being 320 revolutions per minute. Be sure the sf^ttings are proper for the staple so as not to "break" the staple, or too far apart so that uneven drawing will re- sult. THE TOP ROLLS should be of a little larger diameter than for shorter length of staple; the grade of skin used for the top rolls should be finer than that used for the shorter and lower grades of cotton. Not only is this true in regard to the drawing frames, but also on all ma- chines on which leather top rolls are used. Always keep these rolls in the best of shape and clean machines more often than with the lower grades of raw stock. The weight of sliver at the front is 60 grains per yard. The drawing sliver is put through the slub- ber, which makes it into .SO hank. This machine also uses a larger diam- eter top roll than is used on the lowe» grades. The slubber roving for 60^ yarn is put through three processes of fly frames, the hank roving at the 1st intermediate being 2.25; at the second, 5 hank, and at the fine frames 15 hank. From here it is taken to the ring spin- ning room and made into 60s warp yarn on a frame having the followir.;? particulars: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1 5-16 inches; length of traverse, 5 inches. TO MAKE lOOs YARN the slubber roving is the same, also the hank roving at the first and second intermediates. The hank roving at the fine frame is 20. This yarn for filling is taken to the mule spinning room; for warp yam used in the finer grade of batiste is sometimes spun in the mule room and sometimes in the ring spinning room. When spun on the ring frame, use the following partic- ulars for a warp frame: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 5 inches. For making 200s yarn the final yarn is spun single at the mule; if spun double, the frames and hank roving at each would be as follows: Slubber, .80; first intermediate, 2.25; second inter- mediate, 5; roving, 20, and jack 30 hank. This would be taken to the mule room and spun into 200s yarn. The warp yarn for both grades of fabric would be spooled and warped and run through a slasher. A GOOD MIXING for 60s yarn is as follows: Water, 100 gallons; potato starch, 54 pounds; Yorkshire gum, 2 pounds; soap, 1^/^ pounds. A good sizing mixture for the 100s would be as follows: Water, 100 gallons: potato starch, 70 pounds; tal- low, 7 pounds; Yorkshire gum, 3 pounds; soap, 2 pounds. Boil two hours and let stand 10 hours before using; keep agitator running and keep size almost at boiling point. For sel- vedge, the 100s yarn would have to be doubled into 2-ply 100s in addition to the other processes. Bleaching, Dyeing and Finishing Par- ticulars. These goods are bleached in the or- dinary way, great care being taken to keep the goods from damage. The pieces are boiled in caustic soda at 4 degrees Tw. for ten hours, rinsed well in water, and boiled again with 4 degrees Tw. caustic soda, rinsed, and soured with % degree Tw. of oil of vitriol, rinsed and passed through a solution of chloride of lime at i/^ degree Tw. soured with Yz degree Tw. oil of vitriol, and well rinsed, until all acid is washed out. The goods are then dried, and starched through a mangle with 8-12 ounces best white German dextrine to one gallon of water, starch to be well boiled one hour before using. The pieces are dried on a tenter frame at full width, care being taken to keep the warp and filling straight. COLORS. If colors are required they are light blues, pinks and other light tints (Jyed in the mangle or on the jig. LIGHT PINK. For 10 50-yard pieces, 12 gallons water; % ounce to 2 ounces Erika pink; 20 pounds Glauber's; 3 pounds sal soda. LIGHT BLUE. Dye as pink with i?^ to 1 ounce tetra- zo brilliant blue 6B. 128 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. LIGHT SLATE. 2 ounces diamine blacli B H, dye as pink. RED. 1-2 pounds benzo fast red 4B, dye as pink. , YELLOW. Dye as pink. 8 ounces chrysophe- nine. ORANGE. Dye as pink. 1 pound Mikado orange B. SCARLET. Dye as pink. 1 pound diamine scar- let B. LIGHT WINE. Dye as pink. 1 pound diamine Bor- deaux B. LIGHT AMBER BROWN. 4 ounces diamine catechine G; 4 ounces diamine fast yellow B, dye as pink. TOBACCO BROWN. Vz pound diamine brown B; 2 ounces diamine fast yellow B, dye as pink, LIGHT TAN. Dye as pink. 4 ounces diamine bronze G; 2 ounces diamine fast yel- low B. LIGHT GREEN. Dye as pink. 10 ounces diamine green G: 5 ounces diamine fast yellow B. Top with fresh bath; 6 ounces brilliant green G. BLACK. Dye on jig. 15 per cent immedial black N N; 15 per cent sulphide soda; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. ITALIAN CLOTH. Italian cloth is a light, glossy fabric made from cotton and worsted, cotton and wool, cotton and mohair and all cotton. We will here consider the all-cotton fabric. Italian cloth is very common- ly understood to mean a satin fabric, by some known as Farmer's satin. ITS CHIEF USE. It is used chiefly for linings for the heavier styles of ladies' dresses, also for underskirts, or for the garment itself, instead of merely as a lining; when used for such, it is usu- ally in solid black. It is also used for shirtwaistings, fancy pillow backs and so forth, for these purposes usually in fancy colors. The cloth is woven "in the gray" — undyed yams. In the finer grades the warp is sized so as to facilitate the DDDBDnnDBDnncBn DHQDDDHDaDnBDDn DDDDHaDDDBCnDDB DcuaaaoucoDomaa ■aDDD«nnnDBDDaa DDDHannDBDa._aBD UBnnaaBDDGDBcaa naoauaaauuancam DDBDnnnBDDDDBOa ■nnDDBanDDBDDna □DGBDDGDBnnDnBD DBaaaaBDDDDBDDD DDDDBDDDDBDanaB □aBDDDDBnDDDBDD BDCDDBDaDDBQDDC Fig. 1. □nDDDnnDnBnnDGDDDnDB DaDaDaDDBDDDunnnooBa nnnnDDDBDcoDacDDnBDn nnaaDQBDnaaaDnnnBDnn DDnaaBDnDnDnaaaBnoDn DDDDBDDnnDDDaDBnnnna nDDBaDDDDDnnDBCIDnaDD cnBnDDannnnDBaDDDnaa DBnaDanoDDnBDDDDDnDn ■aaDDDDnnaBuDDDDDnna Fi§ Fis weaving process. The fabric under consideration is a five-harness satin weave. The satin weave, technically called "satin." is one of the three foundation weaves. The object of a satin weave is to get a smooth-face fabric. In plain twill weaves every pick in- terlaces with the warp in the same manner, but each successive pick com- mences as it were one end farther to the right or left, according to the di- rection of the twill. This will bind the cloth in a regular order. In satin weaves THE INTERLACING is arranged differently; the intersec- tions of warp and weft are distributed as evenly as possible over the surface of the fabric. The smallest and most common form of satin is the five-harness satin. The order of intersections is 1, 3, 5, 2, 4. (See Fig. 1.) ANALYSIS OF FABRIC. Width of warp in reed, 38 inches; width of fabric, finished, 36 inches; ends per inch in reed, 96; ends per inch, finished, 102; ends in warp, 3,700; 32 dent reed per inch — 3 ends per dent. Take-up of warp during weaving is 5 per cent; weight of fabric, per yard, from loom, is four ounces. Owing to the pressure the fabric is subjected to in the finishing, it stretches slightly in length; conse- quently the cloth should be lighter per yard, finished, than the cloth from A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 129 loom. The difference, however, is made up by the sizing materials, al- though it is given but a very light siz- ing. The cloth per yard finished is prac- tically of the same weight as the cloth per yard from loom. Warp: All l-40s cotton, left twist. Filling: All l-45s cotton, left twist. 130 picks per inch. Fig. 1 shows three repeats of the design; the weave as mentioned above is a five-harness satin, weft face, with the direction of the twill running to the right. The fabric in question has a very smooth face, which is due in a great measure to the direction of the twill being opposite to the direction of twist of yarn. Fig. 2 shows drawing-in draft. The warp is drawn on ten harnesses, straight draw — five harnesses would be enough; ten harnesses are used so as not to overcrowd the heddles. Fig. 3 shows reeding plan. The warp is reeded 3 ends in one dent. LOOM REQUIRED. This character of fabric could be woven on any loom where ten har- nesses could be operated without dif- ficulty. The loom should have a fair- ly high running speed. FINISH. This fabric, as before mentioned, is woven with undyed yarns. After it comes from the loom it is boiled off, then dyed,after which it is subjected to a light sizing. For a light sizing it is not necessary to use anything but wheat flour, farina and a small quanti- ty of softening material, usually tallow or wax. After the cloth is sized it is run through the calender with the rolls well heated, the glossy face of the fab- ric being obtained by the heated rolls. The cloth, after the calendering.is fold- ed, after which it is ready for the mar- ket. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Italian cloth is made in mills of the second division as given in a previous lesson. The class of cloth may be made up of several grades and lengths of raw stock, but for this article we will consider that the cotton Is of a fair grade, the staple being about 1% inches in length. The cotton is all sampled before being put through this bale breaker, several bales being placed around this machine, the cotton being fed alternately from each bale until all the cot- ton is gone. The bagging which cov- ers these bales ib thrown into a pile and is again picked over in order to clean all the fibre from the bagging. This is generally done by the yard hands on rainy days. THE BEST METHOD of conveying the cotton to the mixing bins is by a blower and endless lat- tices. When a blower is used, the cotton arrives at the mixing bins in a more open state and works up much better. At the mixing bin the good waste cotton from all the machines up to the slubber is mixed in. The cot- ton is fed to the hopper of the open- er which should always be kept half full and from here is passed on to the feed rolls of the breaker picker. For this class of goods some overseers use two and some use three processes of picking. It is the general plan of up- to-date mills to use two processes with an opener. After passing the feed rolls of the breaker picker the cotton comes under the ACTION OF THE BEATER. If this is of a rigid two-bladed type (which is the one most generally used) the speed should be aoout 1,500 revo- lutions per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front of the breaker picker is 40 pounds or about 16 ounces to the yard. These laps are taken and put up at the finisher picker and doubled four into one. The roving waste is mixed in at this point in the proportion of three laps of good cot- ton to one lap of bobbin or roving waste. The roving waste is put through a special picker that takes out the twist and delivers it in a light, fluffy state. This is taken and spread evenly on the apron of a picker and made into a lap, the weight of which corresponds to the weight of the laps of the same kind being put up at the back of the finisher picker. The speed of the beater (two-bladed rigid type) for this class of work is about 1,400 revolutions per minute. This gives the cotton passing through 42 Ijeats per inch. The total WEIGHT OF THE LAP at the front of the finisher should be about 35 pounds, a variation of % pound being allowed from standard. If the weight is more than % pound, the laps should be run over again, i. e., placed at the back of the finisher and run through with three other laps. If there is a great variation in the laps, the machine should be looked Into to see what is the cause. For slight va- 130 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. nations in weight there are adjust- ments to quickly remedy the defects. The lap at the front for this class of goods should weigh 12 1/^ ounces to the yard. The laps are put up at the card and the draft of this machine should not be less than 100. Medium card fillet wire should be used on both the cylinder, doffer and flats, the wire on the doffer and flats being one point finer than that used on the cyl- inder. The speed of the cylinder should be about 165 revolutions per minute; speed of licker-in, about 350 revolutions per minute; the speed of the top fiats, 1 complete revolution every 50 minutes. THE CARDS should be stripped 3 times a day and ground surely once a month. At the time of grinding, the card wires should be all straightened out and all reset properly. Light grinding should al- ways be used. The weight of the sliver at the front should be about 65 grains per yard. The production for a week of 60 hours (allowing 10 per cent of time for cleaning, stoppage, etc.) is about 700 pounds. The cot- ton sliver is then passed on to the drawing frames and through three processes of these machines. The drawing frames may be either equipped with metallic or leather cov- ered top rolls, the speed of the front roll at each process being about 400 revolutions per minute. See that the drawing frame bottom rolls are prop- erly set, a good setting for this stock being as follows: From centre of front roll to centre of second roll, 1% inches; second roll to third roll. 1% inches; third roll to back roll, 1% inches. The weight of sliver at the front of the finisher drawing frame should be 72 grains, the doubling at each proc- ess being six into one. AT THE SLUBBER the sliver is drawn into .50 hank rov- ing. From here it passes through three processes of fly frames, the hank roving being as follows: First inter- mediate, 1.50 hank; second interme- diate, 4.00, and fine frame 10.00 hank. At the fly frame look cut for the top leather covered rolls. These should always be in the best of shape. Put just enough twist into the roving so that it will not break back at the suc- ceeding process. Remember, every extra turn of twist given the roving lessens the production. On the other hand, do not get the roving too slack twisted, for then loss of produc- tion, as well as poor work, will result in consequence of the roving breaking back. The wai"p roving is then taken to THE SPINNING ROOM and spun into 40s yarn on a frame having the following particulars: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 6y2 inches; speed of spindle, 10,000 revolutions per minute. The roving for the filling yarn may be taken to either the ring spinning or the mule room, where it is spim into 45s yam. If taken to the ring spinning room, use a frame of following particulars: Gauge of rame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 51/^ inches; speed of spindles, 8,800 revolutions per minute. The warp yarn is then spooled and warped and. run through a slasher. Dyeing Particulars. The pieces are boiled out for dark- shades, and bleached white for light shades and tints. The dyeing is done on a jig machine. PINK. 8 ounces diamine rose G D, 20 pounds Glauber's, 1 pound sal soda. All the dyeings are for 10-12 gallons water- and 10 pieces, 50 yards. SALMON. 4 ounces diamine orange B, 1 ounce diamine scarlet B, 15 pounds Glauber's, 1 pound sal soda. LIGHT BUFF. 4 ounces diamine catechine G, 1 ounce diamine fast yellow B, 15 pounds - Glauber's, 1 pound sal soda. LIGHT SLATE. 4 ounces diamine black B H, 15 . pounds Glauber's, 1 pound sal soda. LIGHT GRAY. One-half pound diamine gray G, 15 pounds Glauber's, 1 pound sal soda. LIGHT BROWN. One-half pound diamine catechine G, V2 pound diamine brown B, 2 ounces diamine fast yellow A, 20 pounds Glauber's, 1 pound sal soda. RED. 3 pounds diamine fast red F, 30 pounds Glauber's, 2 pounds sal soda. SKY BLUE. 2 pounds diamine sky blue F F, 30 ■ pounds Glauber's, 2 pounds sal soda. A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 131 SLATE. 1 pound immedial black N B, 4 ounces immedial olive B, 1 pound sul- phide of sodium, 20 pounds Glauber's, % pound soda ash. PEARL. 2 ounces immedial black N R T, i^ pound sulphide sodium, 10 pounds Glauber's, 6 ounces soda ash. BLACK. 15 pounds immedial black N N, 15 IK)unds sulphide sodium, 30 pounds Glauber's, 3 pounds sal soda. NAVY BLUE. 2 pounds immedial indone 3B, 2 pounds immedial indone R, 5 pounds sulphide sodium, 30 pounds Glauber's, 3 pounds sal soda. NIGHT GREEN. 3 pounds brilliant benzo green B, 30 pounds Glauber's, 3 pounds sal soda. HELIOTROPE. 1 pound heliotrope B B, 25 pounds Glauber's, 2 pounds sal soda. WINE. 3 ixjunds tetrazo corinth G, 30 pounds Glauber's, 3 pounds saJ soda. OLD GOLD. 2 pounds diamine fast yellow A, 1% pounds diamine brown 3G, 30 pounds Glauber's, 3 pounds sal soda. FINISHING. Cotton Italians are finished with a calender finish, passed through a cot- ton rolled calender, to get a good fin- ish, and then softened down, with a light beetling on a beetling machine, or finished altogether on a beetling mar chine. They are also giyer> a hot press finish on the hydraulic press with hot press plates and papers, to imitate the worst- ed Italians. Beetling Process for Finishing. The beetling process for finishing cotton and linen piece goods is one of the oldest finishes in the bleaching and dyeing trades. It was first invented in the linen bleacheries of the north of Ireland in the Belfast district. The first beet- ling machines were very crude affairs compared with the machines now in service. The beam on which the cloth was wound was a large tree trunk turned down and smoothed, which was set in motion with a handle. The part of the machine which lifted the fallers was also turned by hand. The prin- ciple of a finish by a beetling machine is simply an improvement on the old mangle, to smooth the cloth, and fill in the spaces between the threads, mak- ing the cloth more opaque, and show- ing the ordinary linen finish. A good beetle finish is also a permanent fin- ish and will stand sponging and Iron- ing. THE NEW BEETLES are made entirely of iron, except the fallers, which are wooden. The cloth is wound on the iron cylinder or beam, which revolves about 40 times a min- ute; the fallers are lifted by cams and fall of their own weight, about 16 inches on the cloth, from 40 to 50 times a minute. The cloth receives by this process a tremendous hammering, and where 10 or more machines are to- gether the noise is simply deafening. Goods made of half linen and half cotton can be finished to look like all linen goods, and in some goods made of all cotton the finish makes the pieces exactly like a piece of linen, and even AN EXPERT MAY BE DECEIVED thereby. Some goods are heavily starched and dryed, then sprinkled, put on the beetles, and hammered for four or five days, being sprinkled and turned occasionally. The beetles are run night and day with two crews. In Ireland, where labor is cheap and water power is used, the finish is not very expensive, although the process is very long, as the goods are often on the beetles for six days. Where steam power only is used, the finish is almost prohibitory and as a very large and expensive plant is required to turn out a large amount of goods, not many plants of any great capacity have been erected in this country. The largest beetling works are those of the Macnab Co., Hurlet, Pais- ley, Scotland. There are about 100 sections of beetles there, and some very fine work is turned out. A GOOD FINISH is obtained on silesias by first passing the goods through a calender and then giving a few hours on the beetle. Mather and Piatt, of Manchester, have a patent beetle with spring hammers instead of fallers. This machine is said to be good for some finishes, but many prefer the old wooden faller ma- chine. Any width of cloth can be fin- ished on the beetle. Holland shades of over ino inches in width are handled with ease, and the width of the cloth is always increased during the process of beetle finish. 132 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. CHEESECLOTH, This is a tliin cotton fabric of light weight and low counts of yarn, which for cheapness ranlis among the first in cotton fabrics. The fact that it is a cheap fabric has much to do with its popularity, in so far that it is used for innumerable pur- lX)ses; chief among which we may mention that it is used for wrapping cheeses and butter after they are pi-essed, for these purposes only the bleached fabric being used. It is also much in demand for bunting for fes- tal occasions, for light curtains, mas- querade dresses, etc. When used for buntings, draperies and the like, it is usually in colors. Red, blue, cream and yellow bunting seem to have the greatest demand. In i;he sample which will now be considered, the cheesecloth is of a fair quality; the weave is a one and one, or plain weave; there is very little variety in the designing. THE CHIEF OBJECT of the designer in constructing a fabric Off this character is to find the least number of ends and picks per inch re- quired, so that the fabric will not slip too easily; that is, if the cloth is taken between the thumb and first finger of each hand, and the thumbs drawn away from each other over the surface ■of the fabric and first fingers, the ends, if pulling in the direction of the filling, will not leave their proper places too easily, or, if pulling in the direction of the warp, the picks or filling will not give too easily. This tendency to slip is entirely due to the lack of material necessary to produce a perfect or firm cloth. A PERFECT CLOTH may be defined as a cloth in which the warp or weft yarns are equal in diameter and the spaces between the threads are equal to the diameter of the yarn. For instance, let us construct a per- fe<"r cloth with l-3Gs cotton yam for both warp and filling. By squaring tne counts we find the diameter of yarn to be l-165th part of an inch; that is. 165 threads or l-36s will lie side by side in one inch, and by sub- tracting one-half of the 165 to allow for the space required for the inter- lacing with the weft we have 82 ends and 82 picks necessary for one inch of cloth. In the sample in question there is only about half the number necessary to make perfect or firm cloth. ANALYSIS OF FABRIC. Width of warp in reed, 38 inches; width of fabric finished, 36 inches. Ends per inch in reed, 42; ends per inch in finished cloth, 45. Picks per inch in loom, 42; picks per inch, finished, 42; ends in warp, 1,620. Reed, 750x2. TaKC-up of warp during weaving, 6 per cent; weight of cloth, per yard, from loom, 1.7 ounces; finished weight per yard, practically the same. Warp, all l-36s cotton carded peeler; filling, all l-36s cotton carded peeler. BDBQsaan DBCaOBDa Bamauama nHOBOBBD ■DBnaaaa L aasaHaB BaaDaaaa Daaaaaaa Fis: 1. □DannnnanDnnnnna DDDDnnaDnDDDDDBa DDQnnBnDDDDanaDa □DnDBnaaDDanaDna DnDBaDaDDDUBDDaa □DaaanaDDDBDDDDa DBOCDnDnDannDDDa BaaoDDDnBQDDDDan Fig 2. Fig. 1, design. Fig. 2, drawing-in draft. LOOM REQUIRED. The retail price of cheesecloth, 5c. to 8c. per yard, requires that it be wov- en on a high running speed loom. The Northrop loom would be about the best, running at about 200 picks per minute. If the warps are properly sized a weaver can take care of 10 to 16 looms. FINISH. Cheesecloth is given very little finish. After it comes from the loom, it passes to the dyehouse, where it is bleached or dyed as the case may be; the cloth is dyed in a gig dyeing ma- chine. After the dyeing it is passed through a rotary press with cylinder slightly heated, after which it is folded and is then ready for the market. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yarns of which cheesecloth are made up would be made in mills having an equipment of machinery for making coarse or medium grade yarns. There are several kinds and grades of cotton used for the manu- facture of this cloth and the count of yarn varies, but not to such a varia- tion as has been the case with the cloths that have been described in late articles. For this article it will be considered that the cotton is made up of a medium grade of cotton of 1^ inches length of staple and that the count of the yarn for both warp and filling is 36s. The cotton is fed A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 133 to the bale breaker (if the mill con- tains one) or the bales are placed around the mixing bin and mixed by hand. THE HAND MIXING does not give as uniform a mixing as the bale breaker, and when the mixing is done bj^ hand it ought to stand long- er before being used, so that it will drj' out thoroughly. For this class of goods three processes of picking and an opener are used. The good waste cotton is mixed direct into the bin with the raw stock as it is collected. The cotton is then fed to the opener, which is generally supplied with a porcupine opener, and this should re- volve at about 1,050 revolutions per minute. .From the opener the cotton is conveyed by an endless apron to teed rolls of the breaker picker, which condense the fluffy mass into a sheet and offer it to the beater. The beat- er of this machine and also of the in- termediate and finisher pickers is gen- erally of the rigid, two-bladed type. The breaker picker makes 1,500 revo- lutions per minute, the total weight of the lap at the front being 40 pounds, or 16 ounces per yard. These laps are put up at the intermediate picker and DOUBLED FOUR INTO ONE. The beater of this machine should make about 1,450 revolutions per min- ute, the total weight of a lap at the front being 37 pounds, or 12 ounces to the yard. The laps are put up at the finisher picker and douDled four into one, the beater making 1,450 revolu- tions per minute, and the total weight of the lap at the front end being 35 pounds or 12y2 ouuces to yard of lap. Keep the draught of the pickers on the top cage as this will help to prevent splitting of laps; also see that the fly is not allowed to accumulate to any great extent under the machines. There should always be a supply of laps ahead, in case of a breakdown. Always use old laps first and not the newly made ones. The laps are car- ried to the card. The draught of this machine for this class of work should not exceed 100. The top flats should make one complete revolution every 50 minutes. Cards should be set for coarse work, using No. 33 wire on cvlinder fillet, and No. 34 wire on dof- fer and top flats. Use a 26 or 27 inch (uameter doffer. THE SLIVER should weigh 65 grains per yard, and the production for a week of 60 hours should be 750 pounds. The sliver is put through three processes of drawing. It would be of great advantage to use metallic rolls. The doublings at each process are six into one. The drawing sliver is put through the slubber and made into .50 hank roving. This roving passes through two processes of fly frames. At the first intermediate the hank roving is 1.5G, at the second intermediate this is made into 3.75 hank, and at the fly frame 7.50. At the fly frame watch the leather top rolls. The bottom steel rolls should be taken out and scoured at least once a year. The hank roving is then taken to the ring spinning room or the roving for the filling may be taken to the mule room and made into 36s yarn. If taken to THE SPINNING ROOM, use a frame having the following par- ticulars (for 36s filling): Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 6^/^ inches; speed of spindles, 10,200 revo- lutions per minute. For warp yarns (36s), use 2% inches gauge of frame; 1% inches diameter of ring, and 5i/^ inches length of traverse, with spin- dles running at 8,900 revolutions per minute. The warp yarn is then spooled, warped and run through a slasher. Dyeing Particulars. Cheesecloth is dyed on the gig ma- chine, or in the starch mangle during the starching process. PINK. For 10 gallons liquor, 3 pounds 8 ounces cornstarch or dextrine. 4-6 ounces Erika pink, 2 pounds Glauber's, 1 pound sal soda. YELLOW. As pink: 1 pound chrysophenine. ROYAL BLUE. As pink; 2 pounds alum, no sal soda, 1 pound Victoria blue B. SCARLET. As pink; 2 pounds diamine scarlet B. RED. As pink; 3 pounds benzo purpurine 4B. LIGHT SLATE. As pink; 8 ounces diamine black B H, 1 ounce diamine fast yellow B. BROWN. As pink; 2 pounds benzo fast orange S, 2 pounds chrysophenine, % pound benzo fast black. HELIOTROPE. As pink; 1 pound benzo fast violet R, 4 ounces benzo fast blue B N. 134 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. VELVETEEN. Velveteens, also termed fustians and velverets, are heavy cotton fabrics in which the distinguishing effect is formed by the points of the fibres in the filling yarns, termed the pile, be- ing presented to the vision, and not Fit. I . the sides of the yarns as in the ma- jority of fabrics. They are principally used for dress and hat trimmings, suitings, and up- holstery, having exceptional wearing qualities and showing a full, deep col- or. Corduroys are sometimes termed velveteens, the same principle of con- accomplish this the goods are made with a comparatively small number of ends and large number of picks per inch, ranging from 50 to 76 ends and 150 to 600 picks. One warp only is used. A fairly heavy loom is necessary. Figures 1 and 2 illustrate two meth- ods of arranging the whip rolls and yarn when weaving some of the heav- ier picked goods. In each figure A represents the warp beam and B the whip rolls. The dotted line indicates the dire3tion of the yarn. Standard widths for velveteens are 19 inches, 22^^ inches, 24^^ inches and 2714 inches or 28 inches. For the lat- ter width the warp is spread about 33% inches in the loom. The weights for 2S-inch goods vary from one to fio.4-. »i*.5 struction being adopted in both fab- rics, but a corduroy is distinguished by having a corded stripe effect run- ning lengthways of the piece, the di- viding line between each stripe show- ing both warp and filling. In the simplest type of velveteens the pile filling, after being cut, hides the warp entirely from the face. To three and one-half yards per pound. The goods are usually woven two or more widths in the loom, with split selvedges. In order that the fabric may remain firm after the pile picks are cut, ground or binder picks are inserted regularly, working either plain or twill as may be desired. The filling for A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 135 these picks is similar to that used for the pile, only one shuttle being used. Figure 3 is a design tor a velveteen, arranged one ground and three pile picks, the ground weave being plain. The dravi^ing-in draft is straight on 6 harnesses, 1 to 6. The selvedges are woven with a selvedge motion. The ends are reeded 2 in each dent. The chain draft is similar to the weave. Fig. 3. Six ends and eight picks repeat. Figure 4 shows a sectional view of the cloth before being cut. Figure 5 shows the same with the pile cut. Let- tered circles in these figures corre- spond to ends, and numbered lines to picks, in Figure 3. An analysis of two fabrics woven with design, Figure 3, shows the fol- lowing: Sample No. 1: 76 ends and 192 picks per inch; 28s warp and 40s fill- ing; width 23 Inches; weight 4.35 5'-ards per pound. This is a velveteen of poor quality. Sample No. 2 is of a good quality. It contains 76 ends and 375 picks per 8 nnnnen 7 DDtJnca 6 sanaan 5 aaoBaa 4 naaDBn 3 naannn 2 maaaaa AB CD EF Fig. S. aamaum aaoDSDMa BafflDDDoa DBDBaaDa SDDnDDEaD DDDDffiDSD Fu' 7. □anrnnna DaDEBDnaa DDDDDDDffl DaaaDBoa DDDnEBDDD naDDDnffiD aanaaDaa Fig. y. inch, 2-ply 60s warp and 55s filling, and the weight is 3.35 yards per pound. Some velveteens are sold by weight, similar to men's wear fabrics, so many ounces per yard. Another standard fabric woven with design Figure 3 is as follows: 74 ends, 260 picks, 2-ply 70s warp, 60s fill- ing. Figure 6 shows a design with a 3- end twill ground, arranged one ground and three pile picks. The drawing-in draft is straight, reed draft, 2 ends per dent, chain draft same as weave, repeated to 18 picks. Selvedges extra. Figure 7 shows a design for what is termed a fast back velveteen, arranged one ground and four pile picks. When each pile pick is tied under two ends, as in this example, the effect is not so good as when tied only once, but the wearing qualities are improved. In the preceding examples it will be seen that the pile filling is bound only on every other end. Figure 8 illustrates a design in which the pile is bound In on every «nd. This type makes a firm texture but does not admit of a large number of piclvs, therefore the pile cannot be made very full. PURPOSES. For dress and trimming purposes velveteens are usually of a solid col- or, being piece dyed. For upholstery purposes the goods are dyed, printed, embossed or stamped. Panel and stripe patterns are also made by cutting a raised fig- ure on an uncut ground, or vice versa, by painting or by the pyrogravure process, burning. When STAMPING velveteens the goods are passed be- tween two cylinders. The upper cylin- der is of iron and is heated from the inside. The pattern is engraved or sunk into this. The lower cylinder is of hard wood. The pile is compressed by the projecting part of the upper cyl- inder, causing the pattern to stand out in relief from a dull ground. Of vice versa. PAINTING ON VELVETEENS is essentially a hand process. The col- ors have to be free from oil that they may not spread beyond the limits in- tended. In the pyrogravure process of mak- ing patterns on velveteens, the sketch is first made and placed in a panto- graph machine. With a platinum stylus heated to redness the operator then burns out the pile along the lines traced, leaving a very clear pattern. From the time a velveteen leaves the loom to the time it Is ready for cutting, it has to be passed through several processes. It is first put through a BACK STARCHING AND DRYING MACHINE. After drying, the better grades are raised on the under side to make a softer feeling cloth. The lower qual- ities are not raised on account of the tendency for the process to weaken the cloth. The goods are then, while under ten- sion, saturated with a weak milk of lime, the solution being brushed into them on the face side. The next process is drying. This Is done by a device in which rods are au- tomatically inserted below the fabric, so that the latter hangs down In loops. After drying, the cloth is folded and passed to the brushing machine. This machine removes the lime and loosens the filling floats so that the knife can readily enter beneath them. The cutting process proper now 13C A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. takes place, being done either by ma- chinery or by hand. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The fabric for which the carding and spinning particulars are given below is made up in several grades. For this article only two grades will be con- sidered, a coarse one having a warp of l-28s and l-40s filling; and a fine grade, the warp yam of which is 2-70s and with a filling of 2-60s yam. This fabric, all grades, would be made either in the second or third division of mills as gi-\ en in a previous lesson. We will consider THE COARSER GRADE first. This would be made from a me- dium grade 1 5-lG inch staple cotton and run through the bale breaker with blower and endless lattice connections, so that it will reach the mixing bins in a dry, open state. When feeding the bale breaker do not feed one entire lap before starting on another.but open several laps around the bale breaker and feed from each bale alternately. The mixing should be AS LARGE AS POSSIBLE, so that there will be less variation in the yam than when small mixings are used. The good waste from the ma- chines up to the slubber is mixed in- to the bin as it is collected. The cotton is next put through an opener and either 2 or 3 processes of pickers. It is the general custom nowadays to use 2 processes, but the particulars for three processes will be given. If one process is left out, use particulars given for breaker and finisher pickers. Feed the Hopper of the opener so that it is al- ways more than half full, because the more cotton there is in the hopper the more cotton will be taken up by the spiked apron and thus a more even sheet will be presented to the beater, which is generally of a porcupine type and is speeded up to 1,000 revolutions per minute. The speed of the beater at the breaker picker is 1,500 revolu- tions per minute. The total weight of laps at the front of this machine is 40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap. These laps are DOUBLED FOUR INTO ONE at the intermediate. At this machine the speed of the beater is 1,450 revolu- tions per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front is 37 pounds or a 10-ounce lap. These laps are doubled four into one at the finisher picker, the total weight of a lap at the front be- ing 39 pounds or 1414 ounce lap. The speed of this beater is 1,450 revolutions- per minute, which gives the cotton passing thi'ough it 42 blows or beats per inch. Each lap, as it is taken from the front of the finisher picker, should be weighed and all those laps ranging over a half a pound from the standard, either way (light or heavy), should be run over again. The CUT ROVING WASTE is mixed in at the back of the finisher picker in proportion of one lap of rov- ing waste to three laps of raw stock. The cut roving waste has to go through a special process to take out twist and from here it is put through a picker which forms it into a lap, then it is mixed with the raw stock as above. From the picker the laps are taken to the card. The draft of this machine should be about 110. The set- tings should be medium and the wire fillet used would be No. 35 for doffer and flats and No. 34 for cylinder. The speed of the top flats should be one complete revolution every 40 minutes. The sliver at the front should weigh 65 grains per yard and the produc- tion for a week of 60 hours should be about 800 pounds. The sliver is then put through THREE PROCESSES OF DRAWING, the doublings at each process being six into one. The speed of the front roll is 400 rev- olutions per minute at each process. The sliver should weigh about 70 grains per yard. This is then put through the slubber and made into .50 hank roving. The roving to be used for 28s yarn is put through two proc- esses of fly frames, the hank roving at the first intermediate being 2 and at the second being 6. This is then taken to the ring spinning room and made into 28s yarn on a warp frame having the following particulars: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 61/2 inches; speed of spindles, 9,700 rev- olutions per minute. From here it is passed through the spooler,w^hich takes the yarn from the cop and winds it onto a spool. From here it Is wound onto a beam and several of these beams are put up at the ends and run through the slasher and wound on to a beam at the front, which has the re- quired number of ends required for the warp of the fabric. THE SLUBBER ROVING for filling yam is put through three processes of fly frames, the hank rov- ing 1.50 at the flrst intermediate. 4^ A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 137 blank at the second and 8 hank at the last frame. This roving for filling may be taken to either the mule room or the ring spinning room to be made in- to 40s. We will consider it to be taken to the ring spinning room and spun on a frame having the following par- ticulars: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 5% inches. FOR THE FINER GRADES of velveteen the foregoing general particulars may be used, but substitut- ing the following for 60s and 70s yam: Use lYz inches staple cotton; at the pickers the total weight of lap at the front is 40 pounds or 16-ounce lap at the beater and 35 pounds or 12-ounce lap at finisher, no intermediate picker being used. At the card the top flats should make one complete revolution everj"- 40 minutes, the weight of sliver at front being 65 gTains and produc- tion about 500 pounds per week. THE DRAFT should not be less than 120. Sometimes the filling yarn is combed, but we will consider this yarn to be carded and so it will be put through three processes of drawing. At the slubber the sliver is drawn into .55 hank iT)ving and for both warp and filling is put through three processes of fiy frames, the hank roving being as follows: To make 70s yam: firet intermediate. 1.50 hank; second, 4 hank; and jack frames, 14 hank. To make 60s yaa-n: first inter- mediate, 1.50; second, 4 hank; and fine, 12 hank. The 14 hank i-oving is taken and spun into 70s yarn on a WARP SPINNING FRAME fitted up as follows: Gauge of frame 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; speed of spindles, 10,000 revolutions per minute; length of traverse 5% inches. From here it is spooled, then twisted into 2-ply and spooled again, warped and put through the slasher. The 12 roving to be made into 60s yarn may be taken either to the mule room or the ring" spinning room. If taken to the ring frame, use a frame having the following: Gauge of frame 2% inches; diameter of ring, lH inches; length of traverse, 5 inches. The yam is then twisted into 2-60s. Dyeing Particulars. Velveteen is dyed on the jigger ma- chine in 15 gallons of liquor at 175 de- grees F.; for 30 pounds of goods, one- half pound soda ash, one-quarter pound sulphide sodium, 1 pound salt; boil up tne liquor, add the soda, sodium sul- phide and salt before adding the dye- stuff, strain through a piece of calico into the jigger. The goods are run for 30 to GO min- utes; rinse well in water after dyeing. ECRU. 4 ounces immedial bronze A, after- treat with Vz per cent bichrome. 1/2 per cent sulphate copper. LIGHT SLATE. 4 ounces immedial black V, after- treat % per cent bichrome, i4 per cent sulphate copper. PEARL. 11/^ ounces immedial black V. l^/^ ounces immedial brown B, aftea-treat as FAWN DRAB. 12 ounces immedial bronze A, 2 ounces immedial brown B. LIGHT BROWN. 1 pound immedial brown B, 4 ounces immedial cutch O, 1 pound sulphide so- dium. MEDIUM BROWN. i'2 pound immedial yelloAv D, 1 pound immedial brown B, Vz pound immedial cutch O, 1% pounds sulphide sodium. DARK BROWN. 20 pounds salt, I/2 p«:>und soda ash, 5 pounds sulphide, Vz pound immedial black N R T sodium, 8 pounds imme- dial brown B. NAVY BLUE. Dye as ecru with 2 pounds immedial blue C, 2 pounds sodium sulphide, % pound soda ash, 10 pounds .salt; rinse and top with methylene blue N. and shade with methyl violet B. BLACK. 2 pounds immedial black V, 2 pounds sodium sulphide, % pound soda ash, 10 pounds salt; rinse and top with a one- dip black, or paint with Prussian blue. INDIGO BLUE. FV^r 30 pounds goods in jigger, 1 to 5 pounds pyrogene indigo, 1 to 5 pounds sodium sulphide, 1 to 2 pounds soda ash, 5 to 15 pounds salt, y^ to 1 pint mineral oil; rinse and soap, top with methylene blue. A large number of one dip colors are also dyed on velveteens, from light to daxk shades. Although the colors are not so fast as sulphur colors, they are sufficiently fast for some trades. After dyeing, the goods are topped with basic colors, as methyl violet with methylene blue, Bismarck brown and other bright colors. For 30 pounds of goods. 3 pounds di- 138. A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. amine green, 20 pounds salt, 1 pound sal soda; top with Malachite green. SULPHUR GREEN, 2 pounds immedial Indone B B, 1 pound immedial yellow D, 2 pounds sulphide soda, 1 pound soda ash, 10 pounds salt. Rinse and top with brilliant green or Malachite green. tion and a race in the other piece when returning. Assuming that a VELVETEEN CUTTING. Velveteen cutting is one of the proc- esses incident to making cloth that is still, to a considerable extent, done by hand for practical purposes, although machines are now in constant use for accomplishing the same results. The object of cutting is to present to the vision the points, instead of the sides, of the fibres in the filling. Fig. 1 illustrates the tj^e of knife used when the cutting is done by hand. The guide A is inserted in a race of the cloth, and raises the fill- ing to the cutting edge B as it is forced along. The cutting is generally done with the blade of the knife held in a verti- cal position, so as to cut the filling in the centre of the float. A STRIPE EFFECT is obtained, either intentionally or un- intentionally, by varying the position of the knife to the left, centre or right, if two or three positions are held while cutting the same piece. Instead of cutting with the knife inclined first one way and then the other, to right and left, when making stripes with an ordinary weave, knives with two blades are sometimes used to make both cuts at once, one blade being a little shorter than the other. There are TWO METHODS of cutting velveteens by hand: (a) the long-frame method; (b) the short- frame method. In both these the cloth is first stretched over rollers to a suit- able tension. In long-frame cutting, two pieces are generally arranged parallel to each other, about 10 or 12 yards long, with room enough for the cutter to pass be- tween. The cutter cuts one race in one piece when walking in one direc- O 24-inch velvet with 900 races is re- quired to be cut, the cutter will have to walk 900xl0,which equals 9,000 yds.. A COTTON FABRICS GLOcSARY. 139' or over 5 miles to cut 10 yards. This il- lustrates how laborious the hanrl cut- ting process is. IN SHORT-FRAME CUTTING, about two yards of cloth are cut before a change is made. Here the cutter, with a peculiar swing of the body, forces the knife to the end of the two yards. Considerable skill is required in a good cutter, as a wrong movement is liable to damage the piece, either by tained by hand cutting, the blades be- ing inserted below the filling so as to force the poiats of the filling upwards as they are cut. The disc cutters cut the filling from the top of the cloth downwards, the resulting pile being inferior to that cut by the blades. BLADE CUTTERS are of two kinds, single and multiple. The former have so far given the most satisfactory results on account of the difficulty of keeping the several blades .""^ 'Fig. 2. running the knife through it or by cut- ting at the side instead of the centre of the race. The amount of seconds in velveteens is very large, there being many of them made after they leave the loom, as well as during the process, of weav- ing. The least imperfection in weav- ing will cause trouble in cutting. TWO KINDS OF MACHINES. Machines for cutting velveteens are of two kinds, blade cutters, and disc or circular cutters. The blade cutters most nearly approach the results at- in a multiple machi ;e in perfect align- ment with each other. The blades are similar to those used when cutting by hand, except that they are smaller. With a single blade one race is cut at a time, either in lengths of 12 yards or the entire piece, aid it is necessary to repeat the operation for eacli race in the cloth. The BLADE MACHINES PROPER are of two kinds, those in which the k ives are stationary, the full length of cloth being passed through in an 140 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. endless form, and those in which the cloth is stationary, stretched on a long table, and the knives have a horizon- tal movement. Both of these types of machines are fitted with either mechanical or elec- trical stop motions, which cause them to stop immediately a knife jumps out Figs. 2 and 3 illustrate a continuous cutting machine with four knives. Cloth cut by a machine of this type is claimed to be of a superior quality, because there is no necessity to take the knives out every few yards, as is the case in hand cutting. In addition to tne regular tension de- Fig-. or meets with an obstructio:i when cutting, or when the end of the race is reached. Machine cutters require the CONSTANT ATTENTION of a skilled mechanic to keep them in proper condition. If they are are not kept sharp and exactly to gauge, the pile will appear stripey, due to unr-ven cutting. vices for holding the piece tight, there are special plates arranged for hold- ing and supporting the fabric imme- diately under the race being cut. The mechanism is so arranged that the knives, plates, etc., are all moved .si- multaneously, after each cut. THE KNIVES are mounted on hinged arms in such a manner that they lie upon the fab- A COTTON FABRICS G-LOSSARY, ric as it is fed forward, and so con- tinuously cut it. Thie mounting of the l^nives is of sucli a character that in the event of an accident, the worst that can happen is the puncture of the fabric, but the hole so made is only a small one, as the knife is instantly re- leased and the machine stopped. When the end of a race is reached the knives are readjusted and another set of races cut. The DISC CUTTING MACHINES are fitted with cutting discs of steel plate, accurately gauged and well- sharpened, mounted on a shaft, run- ning at a speed of about 3,000 revolu- tions per minute. They are sharpened automatically, while the machine is in motion. The number of these cutters depends on the number of races to be cut. The discs run inside small iron tri- angles, which serve as guides. These guides are placed in the races of the cloth by hand, and the piece is cut as it is drawn forward by the machine. The PRODUCTION OF A DISC CUTTER is much greater than that of a blade cutter. The disc machine effects quite a saving in cutting corduroys, these fab- rics not having as many races as vel- veteens. Devices for cutting the pile filling during the process of weaving have been tried, but have not met with suc- cess. One objection to this method is that the goods cannot be finished sat- isfactorily, the pile pulling out, if handled too severely. 12 inches and ai'e about l-S(M)th n( an inch in diameter. The wool after it comes from the sheep is sorted both for quality and BRILLIANTINE. Brilliantine is a dress fabric, re- sembling alpaca, but of superior quali- ty and sometimes finished on both sides. Brilliantines are made with a cotton warp and lustre worsted filling. Lustre wool is grown in Indiana and Kentucky and is commonly known in the trade as braid wool. Lustre wools are more extensively grown in England. The best qualities are grown in Lincolnshire. The fibres of Lincolnshire lustre range from 8 to Fis lustre and the higher the degree of lustre the more adaptable it is for fancy shades, while the dull or semi- lustre is only used for dark colors. anaaaaDBBHBDDDDaaDDnDBaGBaaBaGcaDBa aaaaaGaaaaaDaDDGaaaaaaaaaaBBBnooccaa BBBBaaaBBBLjaaaaBaaBBBBaaBaBBDD^auBaa BaaajaaaaGaaDaaaaaaaauaoaaBaoaDnaaBB ■BaaaaBaaauaaaaaBBaBaai^BBaaaGaaaGBBB ■aGGGaaaauauaaaaaaBaaaaaaaaaaLBakaaa aQaaBBLjuaaaaaaBBBBaaaaaaaDDaaB-aPBaa nGaaajaaaaaaaaaaaGaaaaaaacaaaaDaaaaa nnGaDaaaaaaaaaaaaaG'DGaaaaaaaDDaaaaca DGaGaaaaaGGaaaaaDGauaaaaaaacjLaaaaaaa GaaaaaaBaGaaaaDaGGGaGBaaaaaGGaBaGGaa BGBaaaBGaGGaBGGaaGBGBaaBBGGLaaaaGoaa ■■■aBBaaGGaaaGGGaagaaaaaGGGcaauaGaaa aaaaBaaGaGBaaGaBBGGaaaBQOGaGBaaGBBaa ■aaaGGGGGa aaaa aGGaaaaGGGOGaGGaaaana ■aaGGGaGaGaaaBaGGGaaaGccGGaaaaaaaGGa BaGGGGGBGBBaaa jaaaaBGGGGGBGBBBBBGGGD BGaGGGaaaaaaaaaaaaaaDaGGBGaBBBBCGGan DaGGBBGaaBBBaaGGaaQGCGBBcnBaBBBcaaGa aGaa«GaBaaBaGaGaaGnGBBBGBBBBBBa. noaa BBBBaaaBBBGaGGGBGaaBaBnraaBBaaQDQgan BBaGGGBBBGaGGaBGaaaBanDGBBcacaGaaBaB aaGaaaaaGGGGaaGaaaaanraaaGGnaGGGaDaa BGGnaaaGaaaGaaaaaBaGGaGaaoGGaaGaaaBB aGanaBaaaaaaaBBBaaGGnoBBGDGCBBGBBBBB DGGaaGaaaaaGGaaaaa^nQGaGncaaaccBBBiig aaaBGGBaBBGGBBBBaGGarHCaBBBBgGBBBBgg GGaGB8»BBGnaBBaGGG.:^GBGBBBaBagrBBBggD nBGBBaaBaaGBBanGGnaaGBBBBBgcgBBBgggg aGaBBBBGGGnaBGaannBnBaBBBaGgcaBDgggn GBBBBHGG 'aaaan^naanaaBaBnGCcaaGGaaaB nBBaBGaannBnnnBaanaaaaaQGGnnHGGQaaag BBBBaGanaanpaaaaGGaaaaGaQGaaaaaaaaDg BBBnaGGaBGBBBBBnGGBBBaGQGGB'-^BBBBBGgg BBGaaQGBnBBBBBanGBBBGGaOGBGBBPBBgggB BGGnGGBGBBBBBGGGGBBGGnnaBGBBBBBGGaGB Flff. 2. Brilliantines are sometimes woven with undyed weft yarn and very rarely if ever with undyed warp yarn. They 142 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. are commonly made with both warp and weft yarns dyed previous to weav- ing. The warp yarn may be the same color as weft or it may be entirely dif- ferent. If, however,, a one-colored fab- ric is desired and it is to be made with undyed weft yarn, the warp yarn must be dyed, previous to weaving, the same color as the weft will be dyed after the fabric is woven. The warp being cot- ton will not take color in a wool dye bath. Fig. 1 shows sample in which both warp and weft are dyed previous to weaving. The warp is light brown and the weft is a medium shade of green. This contrast of colors in con- nection with the weave gives the fab- ric A VERY PRETTY EFFECT. Any combination of colors may be used. A very important factor to con- sider in making brilliantines is the weave. The object is to have as much weft floating on the face of fabric as warp, and in figured brilliantines the c — zzzzz~z_Z-azz;Lju cz^zzzzzzczzBzzzzg C~ZZZZZZZZZHZZZ_3a DZZZZZZZZZBZZZZZZa DZZZZZZZZBZZZZZZZZl nnzzzzz~B~z"zzzzm D~zzz--Bzz-z^zzzzn CZZZZZBZZZ^ZZZ^ZZin CZZZZBZZ~ZZZZZZDDZI c^-ZBZZ" zz-z^^Q-zn czzB-zzz-zz-zzzzzz c~m zzzzzzzzz-zzzc □■zzzczz""'"Z"^znzizDZ ■□DaDzzzzDzaGDnaai:, Fig. 3. figure must in all cases be a weft float- ing figure. The reason for this is ob- vious when a lustrous fabric is de- sired. The design in Fig. 2, of which two repeats are shown, both warp way and filling way, shows the filling to float on the face of the fabric in exact pro- portions to the float of waiT). Very pretty effects are obtained with a plain ground weave with a small jacquard figure, and when a very lus- trous fabric is wanted, the warp yam is of finer counts than weft yarn. ANALYSIS OF FABRIC. Width of warp in reed (without sel- vedge). 42% inches; width of fabric finished, 40 inches; ends per inch in reed, 60; ends per inch finished, 64; ends in warp, 2,535 — light brown; 60 ends selvedge, white (30 ends each side), equals 2,395. Reed 30x2 equals 60 ends. Take-up of warp during weaving 6 per cent. Weight of fabric per yard from loom 5 ounces; weight of fabric finished practically the same. Body of warp 2-40s cotton dyed; sel- vedge 2-40s cotton undyed. Brilliantines, mohairs and alpacas are usually made with different colored selvedge yarn than the body of warp. Filling all l-30s lustre worsted, of about a ^4 blood stock. Fig. 3 shows drawing-in draft — drawn in on 18 harnesses straight draw, pattern repeats on 18 ends and 18 picks. LOOM REQUIRED. For small figured brilliantine a Knowles dobby loom would be about the best. Large figures require a jac- quard loom; brilliantines usually re- quire only one kind of filling, conse- quently a box loom is not necessary, but in order to keep the shade of weft as even as possible when using dyed yarn, two shuttles are sometimes used weaving "pick and pick." FINISH. Brilliantines made with undyed weft, after they come from the loom, are first scoured, then dj'ed; after which they are run thi-ough a rotary press,of which the cylinder has from 50 to 60 pounds of steam heat. Brilliantines shrink a little after they come from the loom. The pressure to which they are sub- jected during the finishing process stretches them out to their original length. Those made with dyed yarns are given usually a dry finish, that is, they are simply run through the press, cylinder heated, after which they are rolled, then packed. Carding and Spinning Particulars. In a previous article, under the head- ing "Carding and Spinning Par- ticulars," the mills were sub- divided into three divisions. For the benefit of readers, we will repeat how they were divided for use in these articles. Mills making low count yarns, say from Is to 30s, were included in the first division, those making medium count yarns, or from 30 to 70s, were included in the second, and the third division comprised mills making yarns from 70s up. This does not mean that only the yarns between the counts given are made in one di- vision, but that the greater portion of the counts of yarn made in the divi- sions referred to are between the counts given. Ine COUNT OF COTTON YARN used for brilliantine for this article is A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 143 2-40s. The filling yarn is lustre worsted yarn and therefore we will only deal with the cotton warp yarn. This class of yarns is made in the second division of mills, the cotton used being of a medium grade and hav- ing a staple of about 1 3-16 inches. The equipment for the second divi- sion of mills may call for a bale break- er or not. We will consider that one is included. The bales of cotton are stapled and several placed around and fed to the bale breaker alternately from each bale until all are gone. The bale breaker has a capacity of about 80,000 pounds per week of 60 hours. The cotton is carried by endless mov- ing aprons so arranged that they may be moved so as to allow the cotton to be dropped into its proper bin. The bins should be as large as possible so as to allow A LARGE MIXING. At this point the sliver waste from the machines up to the slubber is mixed with the raw stock. The cut roving waste of the same length and grade of staple is not mixed at this place, but has to go through a special picking machine, which takes out the twist, then it is put through a picker and made into a lap, after which it is mixed with the raw stock, as will be shown later. The equipment for this division may include two or three processes of pickers. We will consid- er that it contains an opener and three processes of picking. THE BEATER used is generally of the porcupine pat- tern and the speed should be about 1,000 revolutions per minute for this class of work. The opener is gener- ally attached to the breaker picker and after passing the beater of the opener the cotton is passed to the feed rolls by a moving endless apron. At this point the cotton is in an open, fluffy state. The feed rolls condense the cot- ton, as it passes between the rolls. Into a sheet, and in this state it is pre- sented to the beater of the breaker picker. This beater is generally of a rigid, two-bladed type and for the cot- ton in question has a speed of 1,500 revolutions per minute. The cotton is then blown on to a set of cages and compressed into a sheet, after which it passes through several sets of calen- der rolls between which it is further pressed. The total weight of the lap at the front is 40 pounds or about 16 ounces to the yard. These laps are put up at the back of the intermediate picker and DOUBLED FOUR INTO ONE. The speed of this beater is about 1,- 450 revolutions per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front is 37 pounds or a 10-ounce lap. These laps are put up at the finisher picker and doubled four into one. It is at this point that the cut roving waste before spoken of is mixed in the proportion of three laps of raw stock to one lap of roving or bobbin waste. The speed of this beater is about 1,450 revolutions per minute, which gives the cotton passing it about 42 beats or blows per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front of this picker is 39 pounds or about a 14-ounce lap. These laps are then taken to the card, the draft of which for this class of work should not exceed 110. The fillet on the cylinder should be of No. 34 American wire or 110s English count and on the doffer and top flats should be No. 35 wire or 120s English count. The top flats should make one complete revolution every 45 minutes. THE CARDS should be stripped (both cylinder and doffer) three times a day and ground at least once a month. The cards should be reset after every grinding in all parts, except the top flats to the cylinder, which 'should be reset at least four times a year. The weight of sliver at the delivery end of the card should be about 65 grains per yard. The cotton is next put through three processes of drawing frames. Metallic rolls may be used to good ad- vantage on work of this description, the speed of the front roll at each proc- ess being 400 revolutions per minute. The weight of the sliver at the finish- er drawing frame should be about 70 grains. The cotton is next put through the slubber and made into .55 hank roving. The roving is then put through THREE PROCESSES of fly frames. At the first in- termediate it is made into 1.50 hank roving, at the second in- termediate into 3 hank and at the jack frame into 9. This roving is then taken to the ring spinning room and spun into 40s yarn on a frame with the following particulars: Gauge of frame. 2% inches; diameter of ring. 1% inches: length of traverse, GVo inches: twist per inch, 28.46; rev- olutions per minute of spindles, 10.000. Prom here it is passed to the spooler and then to the twister, where it is twisted into 2-40s, and then back to 341 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. the spooler. From here it goes to the warper and from the warper the beams are put up at the slasher, where it is sized, and then it is ready for the weave room. Dyeing Particulars. These goods are dyed in the piece if solid shades are wanted, but if two- colored fancies are made, the warp and the worsted j^arn are dyed in the yarn, woven and finished. For piece dyes union colors are used, or the wool is dyed in an acid bath, rinsed and the pieces are cotton dyed cold. For union black, 5 per cent union black A, 30 per cent Glauber's salt. Boil till wool is dyed, and run without steam till cotton is dyed up to shade; if cotton is not' dark enough add some cotton black. The union fancy colors are dyed in the same way. Wool yarn dyeing. For 100 pounds yarn, 10 pounds Glauber's salt, 3 pounds sulphuric acid. Enter pieces at 150 degrees, bring to boil and boil 40 minutes. LIGHT SAGE GREEN. 1% ounces orange 1 1; 1^ ounces cy- anole B B; % ounce fast yellow S. MEDIUM SAGE GREEN. 6 ounces orange II; 2 ounces fast yellow S; 1 pound cyanole B B. DARK SAGE GREEN. 10 ounces orange I I; 3 ounces fast yellow S; li^ pounds cyanole B B. MEDIUM OLIVE GREEN. 1% pounds fast yellow S; 6 ounces orange II; 1 pound cyanole B B. OLIVE GREEN. 21/^ pounds fast yellow S; % pound orange II; li/^ pounds cyanole B B. BOTTLE GREEN. 3 pounds fast green bluish; i/^ pound fast vellow S; i^ pound formyl violet S 4B. NAVY BLUE. 2 pounds indigo blue S G N; 2 ounces formyl violet S 4B. DARK NAVY BLUE. 4 pounds indigo blue S G N; i^ pound orange I I; y^ pound formyl vio- let S 4B. SLATE. 6 ounces alizarine blue SAP; Vz ounce orange \1; y^ ounce fast yellow G. RED. 4 pounds fast red N S; 6 ounces orange I I. ROSE. 3 pounds rhodamine B; 1 pound rhodamine 5G. SCARLET. 3 pounds brilliant scarlet IR. BROWN. 214 pounds orange I I; ^^ pound fast green bluish; 3 ounces fast acid vio- let lOB; lA pound fast yellow G. The warps are dyed in the chain dyeing machine with rasi sulphur col- ors if possible. For 100 pounds warp: BLUE. 8 pounds immedial indone 3B; 16 pounds sodium sulphide; 8 pounds glucose; 3 pounds soda ash; 15 pounds Glauber's. SLATE. 3 pounds thion black G; 3 pounds sodium sulphide; 2 pounds soda ash; 20 pounds Glauber's. FAWN DRAB. 6 pounds immedial cutch O; 6 pounds sodium sulphide; 2 pounds soda ash; 20 pounds Glauber's. GREEN. 4 pounds immedial yellow D; 4 pounds immedial indone 3B; 8 pounds sodium sulphide; 2 pounds soda ash; 30 pounds Glauber's salt. OLIVE. 7 pounds immedial olive 3G; 2 pounds immedial dark green B; 10 pounds sodium sulphide; 30 pounds Glauber's salt; 3 pounds soda ash. NAVY BLUE. . 10 pounds immedial dark blue B; 10 pounds sodium sulphide; 30 pounds Glauber's salt; 3 pounds soda ash. The fancy shades can also be dyed with one dip salt solors and tannine basic colors. CALICO. A calico may be defined as a cotton cloth with a figured design printed on one side; generally speaking, any printed cloth coarser than muslin, used principally for inexpensive dresses, such as shirtwaists, wrappers, and so on. ^ The majority of inexpensive cotton fabrics are constructed on the one-up, one-down system, or plain weave. Cal- ico is no exception to the rule. Its ornamentation, however, is given it after the cloth comes from the loom. A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 145 As mentioned above, calico is a print- ed cloth, THE PRINTING being effected by means of a printing machine, which may be described as an elaborate machine with a rotating impression cylinder, on which the de- sign has been stamped, or cut. The cloth, in passing through the machine, comes in contact with the impression cylinder. The cylinder, revolving in a color trough, takes up the color and leaves the impression of the design on the cloth. Calicoes may be seen in al- most any color. The printing machine is capable of printing several COLORS in one design. Calicoes, however, are usually in but two colors, that is, one color for ground and one for the fig- ure. The ground color in most cases is effected by dyeing the cloth in some Fig. 1. solid color. After the cloth is dyed, the design is printed on to the cloth. The printed designs on calicoes may be somewhat elaborate or they may be some simple geometrical figures. In order, however, to comply with the true principles of art, such fabrics as calicoes should have but simple geo- metrical figures for their ornamental features. Fig. 1 shows a sample of calico, with a printed geometrical figure, the simplicity of which is in harmony with the structure of the fabric. We may here mention that with all machine repeating designs the fig- ures must be laid out in confornnrv with the dimensions of the priiting roll. For instance, say, the printing roll measures six inches in circumfer- ence, and the design which we wish to print is but two inches in its verti- cal repeat, in order to have perfect repetition we must have three repeats of the design stamppd o'. the impres- sion roll. The circumfci eiijt of the printing roll will, therefcre, control the size and proporti'^;. of the design. The de- sign mus^ ue so adjusted that the re- peat wiW occur with the utmost ac- curacy. Calicoes are made in comparatively narrow widths. The one under dis- cussion is but 231/4 inches, finished. ANALYSIS OF FABRIC. Width of warp in reed, 25y2 inches; width of fabric finished, 24 inches; ends in finished cloth per inch, 72; ends in warp, 1,700; ends per inch in reed 66 2-3; 1,200x2 reed. Take-up of warp during weaving, 7 per cent; weight of fabric, per yard, from loom, 2 ounces; weight of fabric nnished. 2 ounces; warp all l-30s card- ed peeler. Filling: 52 picks per inch in loom; ■" B :_^^i_ ^L L . . _ -r."^" •7-* ^ LCB _ _■■ ;:_,■_.;- mwKi^-V 3 "9 ■. ,,.*",,.",- .-"■H; jiimL-: 3 iS : - ■i^i-B'Zl. "iirmi'i _'bb""' .BBl_L -,"^-'> "r^ -*■■ ,_cn : ►.•.:bbli IGLLjDL ^BlID '■■! :'"bj"'"i l' '■d'" _m\: v5^__r 33 3 k ■j 3 fc 3 :;;a Bll_ -„i, -"^v/. ,■',.," 33t^!^ 3C ■ji^r ^^■ X}- c 3 F-a ;-':~-"Ll'd.-BBBCGCCDCiLBDL '■BCLC^L. "Jl"b^ L^BBD ;-.=3H ".lu -- iiL ; . ft:3L :-.te-^ejLCBBDCBCCC:CLiDlLBBi: ;DBCLji_;LCCCBB« Pig-. 8. pearance to the cord, more so than if several ends of finer yarns are used. Wa^idjiing ends are generally coarser than tjie face ends. Fig. 5 illustrates the type of weave used when a bedford cord is re- quired with a fine face and a heavy weight, or where a well-rounded cord is desired. Ends shown with type a are wadding ends. These are al- ways raised when the filling is float- in'g at the back of the cord and de- pressed ■when the filling is interweav- ing' with the face ends. Fig;. G illustrates a bedford cord with a twill weave On the 'face. The twill runs -to the right in one rib and to the left in the next one, making a herring- bone, effect. Fig. 7 shows the face weate for Fig. 6, ends 1 and 2 and 19 and' 20 being the cutting ends. Thfe weave for this particular sam- ple lias been made on the principle shown in Fig. 2, but weave Fig. 8 would be nreferahle. In this figure type m indicate cutting ends; n wad- ding ends; is and solid hlack type face cord ends; solid type and s show the face weave. The wadding ends would be drawn 2 in each heddle. There are 12 o^ these in each rib. The cutting ends in Fig. 6 might have been arranged to work 2 and 2, Instead of plain, because of the large number of picks per inch and the rel- ative amount of interlacing of the other ends. When the face weave is plain, two plain ends should separate the ribs. Bedford cords are firm fabrics,some- what heavy on account of the large number of ends and picks required per inch. They are usually woven with a For Fig. 1, 96 sley, 88 pick; for Fig. 3. 116 sley, 108 pick: for Fig. e. 220 sley, 156 pick. No. 6 contains 132 face ends and 88 wadding ends per inch, making a to- tal of 220. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The machinery for the manufacture of bedford cord will be found in the second and third division of mills, as given in a previous lesson. There are generally three counts of yarn used for each piece of cloth, one for filling, one for the warp, and one for the cords. These counts vary according to the quality of the fabric being made, generally several different qualities being made uijider one management. The counts of yarn which will be considered iji Uli-S article as composing the cloth will be number 40s foi- warp, number 6O0 for filling and number 20s for the cord or wadding ends. These counts are made up of a good quality of cotton of about 1% to 1% inch staple. At the mixing bins the waste sliver up to the slubber is mixed in as collected, which should be done at reg- ular intervals during the day. The one in charge of the picker room should see that too much waste is not being made and also that the sliver is well torn to pieces before being put into the mix- ing. A good way to check how much waste is being made is to have the picker man weigh it as it comes in and at the end of every week give his list to the overseer. In this way the over- seer may be sure that he is getting a correct list of the amount of waste be- A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 155 ing made and can act accordingly. Tlie raw stock is put through either two or three processes of picking, TWO PROCESSES OF PICKING being generally used, although the particulars for three processes will be given here. The raw stock is fed to the hopper and from here passes under a beater, the speed of which is 1,050 revolutions per minute. From here it is conveyed to the feed rolls of the breaker picker, in a fluffy state, by an endless lattice. The feed rolls con- dense it and present the sheet of cot- ton to the action of the beater, which is generally of the rigid typ;% having either two or three arms. If a two- armed beater is used, the speed should be about 1,500 revolutions per min- ute, and if a three-bladed beater, the speed should be proportionately less. The total weight of the lap at the front should be about 40 pounds or a IG-ounce lap. These are put up at the intermediate picker and doubled 4 into 1. The speed of this beater should be about 1,400 revolutions per minute, the total weight of the lap at the front being 35 pounds or a 14i^-ounce lap. These laps are put up at the finisher picker and doubled 4 into 1. It is at this point that the CUT ROVING WASTE is mixed in, it having first been made into a lap after passing through a spe- cial process, in the proportion of one lap roving waste to three laps raw stock. The speed of this beater, if of a two-bladed rigid type, should be about 1.350 revolutions per minute, which gives the cotton passing through it about 40 beats per inch. The total weight of the laps at the front should be about 35 pounds or a 1214-ounce lap. A variation of half a pound either side of standard is allowed. Laps with a variation of more than the above should be treated as given in a pre- vious article. The laps are put up at the card, the draft of which should not be less than 100. The speed of the top flats should be one complete revolu- tion every 45 minutes. The wire fillet used should be of medium fineness, about number 110 for cylinder and number 120 for the doffer and top flats. THE WEIGHT OF SLIVER at the front should weigh 65 srrains per yard, the production for the 40s and GOs yam being 650 pounds per week of 60 hours, and for the 20s yam 750 pounds per week. This sliver is put through three processes of drawing, six ends up, the revolutions per minute of the front roll being 400 at the finisher drawing. The weight at the finisher drawing should be 70 grains per yard. The drawing should be sized three times a day, and if the variation is more than one grain per yard, the draft gear should be changed to keep the drawing at standard weight. The drawing sliver is put through the slub- ber and made into .50 hank roving. FLY FRAMES. The roving for 40s and GOs yarn is run through three processes of fly frames and for 20s is run through two processes. For GOs yarn the different hanks at each process are as follows: First intermediate, 1.50; second, 4; jack, 12 hank. For 40s yam the details are as follows: First, 1.40; second, 3.40; jack, 10. For 20s yarn: First, 1.50; sec- ond, 4.50. The warp yarns are frame spun and for 40s use a frame the same as given in a previous lesson. For 20s use a frame having a gauge of 2% inches, diameter of ring 2 inches, length of traverse 7 inches. The filling yam may be either mule or ring spun; if the latter, use a frame having a gauge of 2% inches; diam- eter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 5^/^ inches; revolutions per minute of spindles, 8,000. The warp yarn is put through the spooler, warper and slashing machines and then is ready for the loom. A great many mills comb their fill- ing for weaving bedford cords. Dyeing Particulars. SLATE. Two per cent immedial black N B; 2 per cent sodiurn sulphide: 2 pei cent soda ash; 20 per cent Glauber', salt. per 's PEARL. One-half per cent immedial direct blue B; ^ per cent immedial black N B; 1 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent Glauber's salt. BROWN. Tliree per cent immedial cutch O; 5 per cent immedial brown R R; ^/i per cent immedial black N B; 9 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. BLACK. Fifteen per cent immedial black N 15G A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. N; 15 per cent sodium sulphide: 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. BOTTLE GREEN. Eight per cent immedial dark green B; 1 per cent immedial yellow D; 9 per cent sodium sulphide; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent soda ash. NAVY BLUE. Four per cent immedial indgne B; 4 per cent immedial indone R; 8 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's. RED. Six per cent benzo fast red 4 B; 30 per cent Glauber's salt; 3 per cent sal soda. PINK. One per cent erika pink; 2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glauber's salt. SKY BLUE. Four per cent tetrazo sky blue F; 2 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glau- ber's salt. IMPERIAL PURPLE. On a tannine and tartar emetic mor- dant. Dye 2 per cent methyl violet 2 R. CHINTZ, Chintz is a fine, soft, cotton fabric, printed with elaborate designs of flow- ers and foliage in several colors. The fabric is used principally for house- hold purposes, such as lambrequins, coverings, etc. It is also utilized for such purposes as masquerade dresses and the like. Chintz is but a plain woven fabric, elaborately ornamented with designs by means of the printing machine, sev- eral different colors being employed. From this point of view we will con- sider the fabric. COLORINGS FOR CHINTZ. There is practically no combination of colors that may not be used for the ornamentation of a fabric of this de- scription. However, the high -cole rod designs are most popular. Following are POINTS TO CONSIDER In planning a design for chintz, also colors to use. In the first place it is necessary to have a clear idea of what the main characteristics of the design are to be, before the work of arrange- ment is begun. The character of the design should be influenced largely by the purposes the fabric is intended for; this brings in the question of fitness, which is the application of a certain class of design to certain materials. It is evident that the style of desigi that would be suitable for a floor covering would be entirely unsuitable for a printed cotton fabric. The considera- tion of style is a subject that the de- signer is bound to be governed by, simply because the designs are for a commercial purpose; consequently in planning a design, the style, scale and character of the design, the material it is to be applied to, and its purposes should be understood by the designer. Chintz is A PURELY ORNAMENTAL FABRIC. The designs, therfore, may be rich, both in colors and design. In Figure 1 we give an idea of the character of design used for fabrics of this de- scription. The ground may be a light shade of blue, the leaves and stems in two shades of green, while the flow- ers may have three shades of red graduating from pink to dark red; a happy blending of color is essential ro the well-being of a design. ANALYSIS. Inches. Width of warp in reed : 36% Width of fabric finished 35% Ends per inch finished 72 Ends in warp 2556 Selvedge 24 Total ends in warp 2580 Reed 1250x2 Take-up of warp during wpaving, •> per cent; weight of fabric finished, 1% ounces per yard. Warp yarn 1-44 cotton. Filling 56 picks — 1-80 cotton. LOOM REQUIRED. Chintz is usually woven on high run- ning speed looms, such as a Northrop loom. The warp is drawn in on eight harnesses, straight drafting. The warp yam is well sized so as to avoid breakages of the warp in the weaving. FINISHING. The fabric, after it comes from loom, is sent to the printing house, where it is boiled off, preparatory to the printing operation; chintz is not dyed; all the colors are applied by means of the color rolls in the print- ing machine. Several rolls are re- quired, each roll having a separate A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 157 portion of the design and likewise a Carding and Spinning Particulars separate color. The yarns of which chintz is com- After the printing, the fabric is posed are made in mills having the passed through ci calender press, the second division of equipment of nfa- rolls of which are well heated and chinery. The yarns which make up tightly set, which gives the glazed fin- the sample under desci'iption are as ish which the fabric possesses. follows: filling yam No. SOs and varp 158 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. yarn 44s. The tilling j'arn is made of good cotton of 1^4 inches staple. This is put through a bale breaker, as has been previously described. Either two or three processes of picking rnay be used, many overseers claiming the two-process method to be the better. The raw stock, after being allowed to stand in the mixing bin as long as possible to dry out, is put into the hopper of the opener, and after be- ing lifted up by the spiked apron comes in time under the action of the beater. This beater is provided with four arms, the blades of which are composed of leather. The speed of this beater for this kind of stock is 1,000 revolutions per minute. THE RAW STOCK is then passed to the breaker picker by an endless lattice. This lattice should be varnished frequently so as to make it smooth. This not only ap- plies to this lattice, but to all lattices in the picker room. The feed roHs of this machine compress che cotton into a condensed sheet and it is struck from these rolls by a beater. This is generally of a rigid type, having either two or three arms: if of two- blade type it makes about 1,500 revo- lutions per minute. The laps at the head end weigh 40 pounds or a 16- ounce lap. The^e laps are put up at the intermeriiate and doubled 4 into 1. The speed of this beater is about 1,400 revolutions per minute, the total weight of the lap being 37 pounds or a 12-ounce lap. These laps are put up at the finisher picker and doubled 4 into 1. It is at this point that the cut roving is mixed in, as has been de- scribed in a previous article. The speed of this beater is 1,350 revolu- tions per minute if of a rigid two- bladed tyije; if The beater has three blades it rotates proportionately slow- er. The total weight of a lap at the front is 39 pounds or a 12-ounce lap. THE EVENNESS OP WORK. Look out to see that the eveners on all the pickers are in proper work- ing order, for remember the greater part of the evenness of a lap depends upon this part of the picker. See that the drafts are properly directed and of the right strength to do the most good. Keep the .^y well cleaned out from under the machines and don't be afraid of oil. but get it in the proper place. Be sure and have everything neat and clean. The laps are put up at the card. It has always been a bone of contention whether it is proper to use a heavy lap and slow speed or light carding and higher speed. Heavy carding means low drafts, and light carding, so called, high drafts. For this lesson light-weight carding will be used. The draft of the card should be 115, which gives a 45-grain sliver. The speed of the flats should be one complete revolution every 40 minutes. The speed of the licker is 350 revolutions per^ minute. Strip three times daily an'd clean thorough- ly twice a day. Keep front of card free from fly waste all the time. The production of the card for a week of GO hours is 550 pounds. This is put through THREE PROCESSES OF DRAWING, the weight of the sliver at the finish- er being CO grains per yard. The speed of the front roll is 400 revolu- tions per minute. The top rolls of a drawing frame should always be kept well varnished, the leather being free from flutes, ridges, nicks; in fact, they should be in perfect shape. The drawing sliver is next put up at the slubber and made into. 55 hank rov- ing. This is put through three proc- esses of fly frames, the hank roving at each process being asfollows: First, 1.50 hank; second, 4.80 hank; fine or jack, IG hank. This roving may be taken to either the mule or ring spin- ning room. If to the latter, use a frame having the following particu- lars for spinning 80s yarn: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1%; length, of traverse, 5 inches; rev- olutions per minute of spindles, 7,400; twist per inch, 29.07. The YARN AFTER BEING TREATED in some manner to make it damp, is carried to the weave room. What has been said of the cot- ton for the filling yam may also a])- ply to the warp yarn with the follo'A'- ing exceptions: In the picker room, length of staple, 1^^ inches; weight of lap at finisher picker, 40 pounds. In card room at the (?ards, draft not over 105; speed of flats, one revolution 'n 50 minutes. Production 675 to 700 pounds, at drawing frame, weight of sliver, 70 grains per yard; at slubber a .fiO hank roving, which is put through three processes of fly frames, the hank at each being as follows: First. 1 50 hank: second, 4 hank: fine, 10 hank. This is carried to the ring spinning room and made into 44s yarn on a frame with the follow- ing particulars: Gauge of frame, 2^ inches: diameter of rin.g, ^^; inches; length of traverse. 6 inches; revolutions per minute of A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 159 spindles, 10,000; twist per inch, 29.65. The yarn is then spooled, beam warped, and these are run through the slasher, where the requisite number of ends is run on a warp beam at the head end. A good size mixing is as follows: Water, :100 gallons; potato starch, 54 pounds; Yorkshire gum, 2 pounds; soap (white), V/^ pounds; parafine wax about 1 pound. Printing Particulars. The colors for this style of goods are mostly light bright shades. LIGHT BLUE. Two ounces methyl blue B; 1 pint acetic acid. 10 des;rees Tw.; 2 pints water; 6 piuts gum water, 1:1; 'hi pint acetic acid tannic acid solution, 1:1. LIGHT GREEN. One and one-half ounces brilliant green crystals; 1 pint acetic acid; lO degrees Tw.; 2 pints water; 5 pints gum water. 1 : 1; ^A pi^t acetic acid tannic acid solution, 1 : 1. LIGHT PINK. One and one-half ounces rhodamine 5 G; 3 pints water; IV2 pints acetic acid, 6 degrees Tw. ; 3 pints tragacanth solution, 70 — 1,000; % pint acetic acid tannine solution, 1 : 1. RED. Six ounces rhoduline red B; 2 pints water; I'h^ pints acetic acid, 10 degrees Tw.; 6 pints gum water, 1:1; 1^ pints acetic acid tannine solution, 1 : 1. LIGHT MAUVE. One-half ounce methyl violet 6 B; 2 pints water; ly^; pints acetic acid, 10 degrees Tw.; 6 pints gum water, 1 : 1; % pint aceti* acid tannine solution, 1 : 1. ROYAL BLUE. Six and one-half ounces Victoria blue B; 1^^ pints acetic acid, 10 degrees Tw.; 21,4 pints water; 6 pints gum water, 1:1; 1% pints acetic acid tan- nine solution. 1:1. LIGHT YELI-OW. Five ounces duramine I I; 1% pints acetic acid, 10 degrees Tw.; 1^ pints water; 6 pints gum water, 1: 1; IVi pints acetic and tannine solution, 1 : 1. ROSE. Four ounces rhodamine 6G; iV2 pints water; 3 pints acetic acid, 9 degrees Tw.; 314 pints tragacanth solution, 70^1,000; 1 pint acetic acid tannine solution, 1 : 1. LIGHT BROWN. Six ounces Bismarck brown G; 2 pints acetic acid, 10 degrees Tw.; ^.1 pint glycerine, 45 degrees Tw.; 2V^ pints water; 6 pints gum water, 1 : i; 1. pint acetic acid tannine solutio.i, 1:1. LIGHT OLIVE. One pint of the light yellow color; 1 pint of light brown color; V^ pint light green color; well mixed and strained through a cloth. With different pro- portions of these colors any shade can be obtained. These colors are well mixed in a tub or copper pan, strained through a cloth, and printed in a printing ma- chine. The pieces are dried, steamed one hour, without pressure, passed through a bath of tartar emetic, soap- ed at 90 degrees F. , washed and dried. The pieces are then run through a starch mangle and starched, then cal- endered to finish required. ORGANDIE (Plain and Figured). An organdie may be defined as a very fine translucent muslin, used ex- clusively for dress goods. The fabric is made in a variety of qualities as regards the counts of yarns used. This naturally influences the number of ends and picks per inch in the fabric. The fabric is also made in a variety of widths, ranging from 18 to 60 inches. The fabric, as already mentioned, is used exclusively for dress goods. The plain organdie is very popular in pure white or bleached, although considera- ble quantities are dyed in solid colors of light shades, such as pale blue and various pinks, while the figured organ- die is usually bleached, then printed with small floral designs. The printed design is usually in from two to four colors and in delicate shades in con- formity with the material. The design itself is also quite deli- cate. In a design for a fabric of this char- acter, the scale of the pattern should not be too large. It should not ex- ceed 41^. inches in the repeating of it as the folds of the dress and the nu- merous seams would destroy the effect 100 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. of the repeat if it were much, larger. The accompanying slvetch shows a desiga for the fabric in question; the design shows a rose spray rendered in a natural manner. A color scheme for the same would be to have the flowers pink or yellow, while the leaves and stems may be in green; this against a white ground should give a pleasing effect. A delicate design and color scheme are essential for this kind of fabric. Organdie, considered in rela- tion to cost, as a wearing material is quite an expensive fabric; however, the retail price apparently seems to dis- prove this fact. Our reason for the statement that the fabric is not an in- expensive material is that it has a finish peculiar to itself, so that when subjected to soap and water it will not have the same appearance as before. It loses its crisp feeling en- tirely; consequently an organdie is worn by many until soiled, then dis- carded. ANALYSIS. Width of warp in reed, 32 inches; width of fabric finished, 30% inches; ends per inch in reed, 76; ends in warp, 2,440; ends per inch finished, 80. Reed, 1,400x2. Take-up of warp during weaving, 7 per cent; weight of fabric, about IE yards to one pound. Warp yarn, 1-80 combed Sea Island. Filling, l-20s combed Sea Island; 88 picks per inch. LOOM requirb:d. Organdie is but a plain woven fab- ric. The ornamentation of the figured fabric is effected by means of the printing press; consequently any smooth running high speed loom may be used in the weaving of this cloth. However, as the Northrop loom with warp stop motion would answer best, the warp may be drawn in straight on eight harnesses; in using a consider- able number of ends per inch, it is safe to use at least eight harnesses, so as to avoid heddle chafing:. The warp preparatory to weaving is given a fair sizing with white gum in order to give it strength. FINISHING. The fabric is stiffened by sizing it with such ingredients as dextrine, dul- cine, albumen, casein, etc., after which it is run through the calender, which slightly glazes the surface of the fab- ric, thus completing the finishing proc- ess. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yarns of which organdies are composed require the equipment of machinery found in the second or third division of mills, as given in a previous lesson. This class of goods requires a very fine grade of cotton, and generally both warp and filling yarns are made of combed stock. The counts of yarn vary, according to the grade of goods to he made. In this article it will be considered that the make-up of the cloth is as follows: 80s warp and 120s filling yarn. These are made from Sea Island stock of 1% to 1% inch staple. Sea Island cotton as a whole requires just as little picking as possible and still get the dirt out. Sea Island cotton is generally put through an opener and one process of picking, although some overseers use two processes. This stock is not put through the bale breaker, but is GENERALLY MIXED BY HAND. If any bales are found which are not up in grade and staple they should be placed one side and not put into the mixing. The mixing should be made from several bales at once, so as to get the mixing as even as possible. At this point the sliver waste from the machines up to the slubber is mixed ii. The sliver should be pulled into short lengths so that it will not be so apt to become wound around the pin beater of the opener. The hopper should be kept more than half full. The cotton is passed from this machine A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. IGl directly to the finisher picker; the apron of this picker is divided up into yard lengths and the loose cotton is spread evenly over it. About lu ounces to the yard is the weight used. The beater for this class of goods is generally of a rigid two-bladed type, the speed of it being less than those that have been previously given. The speed of the beater is about 1,200 rev- olutions per minute, wnich gives the cotton of this length passing through the picker about 29 beats per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front of picker is 30 pounds, or a 10- ounce lap. The usual points that have been previously given should be looked out for and in addition the SPEED OF THE BEATER should be watched to see that it is not putting neps into the cotton. These laps are put up at the card, the draft of which should be high, not less than 125, and on some Sea Island stock the draft runs as high as ISO. The card wire fillet used on the cylinder should be No. 120s (English count) and for the doffer and flats 130s. The flats should be speeded up to take out more flat waste or, in other words, the card with HO flats should make one revolution every 35 minutes. The flats are speeded up by lagging the flat pulleyon the main cyl- inder shaft. Close settings should be used and these should be gone over every time the card is ground, which should be once every month. Grind lightly. Strip three times a day and keep the cards clean, especially the fronts. The weight of the sliver at the front should be about 45 grains per yard and the production about 225 to 300 pounds per week of 60 hours. Be sure that the feed plate is set at the proper distance from the licker-in, so that the staple will not be broken. On most makes of cards the licker-in is speeded too high for this class of cot- ton, and better results will be obtained if the speed is dropped to 27-5 and not more than 300 revolutions per minute. It is claimed that a high speed of the licker-in tends to put neps into the cotton of long staple. THE LICKER-IN should be speeded so as to tear the sheet or lap apart and take out the seed, etc., left by the picker. The cot- ton is next taken to the sliver lap m^- chines and made into a lap. The weight of the lap should be about 300 grains per yard. The doublings at the sliA'er lap are 14 into 1 when 6- head 9-incli lap combers are used, or 20 into 1 when 8-head lOi/^-inch laps are used. The laps from the sliver lap machine are doubled 6 into 1 at the ribbon lap machine, the weight of laps per yard being 2S0 grains. These laps are put up at the comber. The doub- lings at the comber depend on how many heads it has. For the past two or three years the comber builders have sold practically nothing but 8- head combers, so we will consider that the mill is equipped in tliis manner. The doublings would then be 8 into 1. For this class of goods from 22 to 25 per cent waste is taken out and the weight of the sliver at the front is 48 grains. This is put through TWO PROCESSES OF DRAWING the weight at the front of the finisher drawing being about 60 grains per yard. Be sure to keen the top leather rollc well varnished and in good condition. See that all parts of the machine are working properly. The sliver is next put up to the slub- ber and made into .80 hank roving. In some mills the top leathers are var- nished and in addition to this, on long- stapled stock, larger top rolls are used This roving is put through three processes of fly frames for 120s filling yarn, the hank roving at each process being as follows: At the first inter- mediate 2.25 hank, at the second inter- mediate 6.50 hank and at the fine frame 24 hank. On this hank roving it is a good plan to either have self- weighted rolls on second intermediate and fine frames or run them without weights, all the weight being on the back top roll. The roving is then spun on a mule into 120s. The slubber roving for the warp yarn is put through three processes of fly frames, the hank roving being as follows: At the first, 2. 25; at the second, 5 hank, and at the jack, 10 hank. Keep the top leather rolls in good condi- tion and watch the traverse motion. Look out for twist and don't get too much tension, so as to pull the roving when it is between the boss of the front roll and the flyer, as this tends to cause uneven roving. Don't let the hands cut the roving from the bobbin, and weigh the cut rc;ving. This roving is taken to the ring spinning room and spun into SOs yam on a frame having the following particulars: Gau.ge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring. 1% inches; length of traverse, BVi^ inches; twist per inch, 39.08; speed of spindles, 9.600. From here it passes through the spooler and warper, and the beams for this machine are put up 162 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. at the slasher, and after passing through this machine the required number of^ ends are mn on to a warp at the front end. A GOOD-SIZED MIXING for 80s yam, if sloy and pick are high, is as follows: Water.lOO gallons; pota- to starch, 70 to 75 pounds; tallow, 7 pounds; Yorkshire gum, 3 pounds; soap (white), 2 pounds. Boil 2 hours and let stand 10 hours before using. Keep agitator running and keep size- mixing almost at boiling point. Dyeing Particulars. Following are dyeing particulars for organdie: PINK. Two ounces rhodamine pink 6 G; 1 qt. water; l^^ pints acetic acid 90 de- grees Tw.; 3 pints tragacanth solution 70 : 1.000; % pints acetic acid tannine solution .1 : 1. LIGHT YELLOW. Four ounces thioflavine T; 2 qt. water; 1% pints acetic acid, 6 degrees Tw.; 3 pints tragacanth solution .70: 1,000; 1 pint acetic acid tannine solu- tion 1 : 1. PEACOCK BLUE. Four ounces turquoise blue G; 2 qt. water; 2 pints acetic acid, 9 degrees Tw.; 3 pints tragacanth solution 70 : 1,000; 1% pints acetic acid tannine solution 1 : 1. ROSE. Four ounces brilliant rhoduline red B; 2 qt. water; 1^^ pints acetic acid, 6 degrees Tw.; 3 pints tragacanth so- lution 70 : 1,000; 1% pints acetic acid tannine solution 1 : 1. BLUE. Four ounces methylene blue B B; 2 qt water; 2 pints acetic acid, 9 de- grees Tw.; 2 pints tragacanth solution; 1% pints acetic acid tannine solution 1 : 1. GREEN. Four ounces emerald green crys- tals; 2% pints water; 2 pints acetic acid, 6 degrees Tw.; 3 pints tragacanth solution 70 : 1,000; 11/2 pints acetic acid, tannic acid solution 1 : 1. LIGHT BROWN. Four ounces Bismarck brown B; 1 qt. water; 2 pints acetic acid, 9 degrees Tw.; 3 pints tragacanth solution 70 : 1,000; 11/^ pints acetic acid tannic acid solution 1:1. SAGE GREEN. Mix together one gallon green color; 1/4 gallon light yellow; i/^ gallon light brown. VIOLET. One ounce methyl violet 4 B; 1 qt. water; ly^ pints acetic acid, 6 degrees Tw.; 6 pints gum water i : 1; % pint acetic acid tannine solution 1 : 1. SLATE. One gallon blue color; 1 pint light. yellow; well mixed with Yz gallon tragacanth solution 70 : 1,000. The color is then strained through a cloth, and is ready to print. All the colors are well boiled in a copper pan. and strained through a cloth. After the printing process, they are dried, steamed one hour without pressure, passed through a bath of tartar emet- ic, and soaped at 90 degrees F., rinsed and dried. The goods are starched and finished on a tenter frame. ALBATROSS CLOTH. Cotton albatross cloth is a plain fabric made in imitation of a worsted fabric of the same name. It is light in weight, and is used principally for dress goods. It is sometimes used instead of bunting for railroad flags. The ends and picks per inch are few and the width of the cloth is narrow. The items of construction for a cot- ton albatross are as follows: Warp. 1,024 ends of No. 28s cotton; 16 ends have been allowed for selvedges. Filling, 48 picks per inch of No. 36s cotton; 48 sley reed. Width in reed. 23 inches. Width finished. 21 inches. This fabric can be made very read- ily on an automatic loom, or on any of the light, fast running, single box cotton looms, four wire heddle har- nesses, or the regular twine harnesses, on the plain cotton loom only being required. If wire harnesses are used on a cam loom, the ends should be drawn through the heddles, 1, 3, 2, 4. Being considered a fair quality of cloth, it is necessary to match the pick when weaving it. The goods are finished by being burled, sheared, washed, singed, dyed, rinsed, dried and pressed; care being A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 163 taken not to press them too hard. The singeing process is sometimes omitted. Albatross cloth is generally sold in white, black, or solid colors, being piece dyed. It is not used to any ex- tent for printing purposes. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yarns for albatross cloth are made in mills having the equipment of machinery found in the second divi- sion of mills, as given in a previous lesson. For this article we will con- sider the filling yarn to be number 36s. This would be made of 1%-inch sta- ple American cotton. The warp yarn is 2Ss count and may be made from the same state and grade of cotton. The mixing is done either by hand or by a bale breaker. The cotton, if mixed in the former manner, should be allowed to stand longer than if mixed by the latter method. This is to allow the cotton TO DRY OUT. At this point the good sliver waste from machines up to the slubber is mixed in, care being taken that the sliver is broken up into short lengths. The cotton is next put through an opener and either two or three proces- ses of picking (generally three). The opener hopper should be kept at least half full in order to always have an even amount of cotton fed to the break- er picker. This picker is generally pro- vided with a two-bladed, rigid beater, which rotates at a speed of 1,400 revo- lutions per minute. The TOTAL WEIGHT OF LAP at the front end of this picker is about 40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap. These are put up at the intermediate picker and doubled four into one. This is al- so provided with a two-bladed, rigid type of beater, the speed being 1,500' revolutions per minute. This style of beater is not always used, as will be noted later. The total weight of lap at the front is about 38 i)ounds or a 12-ounce lap. These laps are put up at the finisher picker and doubled four into one. At this point the laps of cut roving waste are mixed in in the pro- portion of one lap of cut roving to three laps of raw stock. The cut rov- ing is treated as before stated. THE FINISHER PICKER is equipped with either a rigid or what is called a pin heater. A great many mills are putting in this pin beater on stock up to 1 9-16-inch, claiming that the stock is more thoroughly cleaned. The speed of the pin beater (which has three arms) is higher tha:i that of the rigid type, being 1,500 revolutions per minute, whereas a two-armed rigid type would be run about 1,450 revolutions per minute. The pin beat- er can be run at a greater speed be- cause it does not strike the cotton a blow but rather tears it apart. If a two-bladed, rigid type of beater is used, it should be speeded up so as to give about 42 beats to each inch of cotton passing through. The total weight of lap at the front should be about 38 pounds. Laps varying more than one-half a pound either side of this standard should be run over again. Observe the general i)oint:s about the picker room that have been given before. The laps are put up at the card. For this grade of goods THE DRAFT should not be less than 100. Use me- dium wire filled, i. e.. No. 120s, for cylinder and No. 130s for doffer and flats. Speed of licker-in, 320, flats one revolution every 45 minutes; use 26- inch or large diameter dolTer. Strip three times a day and grind cards all over once a month. Groove setting points frequently and WtUch the dead roller grinding wheel to see that it is straight. The weight of the sliver at the front should be about 65 grains, the pro- duction being 700 pounds per week of 60 hours. The card sliver is put through three processes of drawing, the weight at the front being 70 grains per yard. WATCH THE CLEARERS to see that they are in proper condi- tion. Metallic rolls may be used on this class of work to great advantage. If leather top rolls are used, keep them up in good shape. The drawing sliver is run through the slubber and made into .55 hank roving. This is put through three processes of fly frames for the filling yam, the hank roving at each process being as fol- lows: 1st, 1.50; 2d, 3.50. and jack, 8.25 hank. We will consider that the filling yarn is taken to the ring spinning room, where it would be spun In 368 yarn on a frame having the following particulars: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1'^ inches; length of traver.se, 5% inches; speed of spindles, 8,900 revolutions per minute. After being treated to make it damp, the filling is taken to the weaA'e room and woven a? given above. The roving for the warp yarn '"^ is put through two processes of f.y "* frame? the hank roving at the first 104 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. intermediate being 1.75 and at ttie jack 5.50 hank. This yarn is spun in- to 2Ss yarn on a ring frame having the following particulars: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 61/2 laches; speed of spindles, 9,700 revolutions per minute. The warp yarn is then taken to the spoolers; from here to the warpers, aid the warps are put up at the slasher, the required number of ends being run upon a beam at the head end. Dyeing Particulars. LIGHT PINK. One-half pound Erika pink; 20 pounds Glauber's; 2 pounds sal soda. SKY BLUE. One pound diamine sky blue F F; 20 pounds Glauber's; 2 pounds sal soda. LIGHT SLATE. One per cent katigen blue black B; 3 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent Glau- ber's; 1 per cent sodium sulphide. OLD GOLD. Two per cent diamine catechine 3 G; 2 per cent diamine fast yellow B; Vs per ceit diamine black B H; 30 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. LIGHT SAGE GREEN. One-half per cent chloramine yel- low M; 116 per cent benzo fast orange, S; Vs per cent benzo fast blue B N; L-0 per cent Glaubers; 2 per ce it sal soda. LIGHT BROWN. One-half per cent diamine brown B; V2 per cent diamine fast yellow B; 14 per cent diamine catechine 3 G; 20 per cent Glauber's: 2 per cent sal soda. LIGHT GREEN. One per cent diamine sky blue F F; 1 per cent diamine fast yellow F F; 30 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. PEARL. Oie-quarter per cent immedial di- rect blue B; Vi per cent immedial black N G; % per cent sodium sul- phide; 20 per cemt Glauber's; 2 per cent soda ash. BLACK. Fifteen per cent immedial black N N; 15 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's. NAVY BLUE. Twelve per cent thiogene blue B; 22 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's. DARK BROWN. Ten per cent Ihiogene brown G; 6 per cent sodium sulphide; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent soda ash. BOTTLE GREEN. Ten per cent pyrogene green B; 12 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's. ROSE. Mordant for 200 gallons water; 31-3 pounds tannic acid; run through, on jig machine, for one hour. Pass through a clean bath of two pounds tartar emetic for 200 gallons water half hour; wash and dye. Two pounds rhodamine 5 G. ROYAL BLUE. Mordant as rose. Dye, l^/^ per cent Victoria blue B. ROYAL PURPLE. Mordant as rose. Dye, '%, per cent methyl violet R. TARLTON, Tarlton is a fine, open, transparent muslin, somewhat similar to an organ- die in the feel and finish, though a much coarser fabric. The cheaper grade of tarlton resembles a mosquito netting. Mosquito netting, however, is in a leno weave, while tarlton is but a plain woven fabric. The goods are piece dyed and may be seen m any color; some are finished in pure white or - f 1 T ---i — t 7 —-^ )k jf- — -! * Hr- ■ -^ Fig- 1. Drawing--in Draft. l2 repeats.) bleached. The fabric is used for va- rious purposes, the finer qualities for women's wear. The fabric is princi- pally used for draping and decorating purposes, for foundations for ladies' hats, for bunting around bird cages, for a twofold purpose — first to prevent the birdseed from being scattered to the floor, and second, as a decorative feature. Briefly we may say that the fabric is intended chiefly for drap- i'\g and decorating purposes, especial- ly the cheaper grades, tlie meshes of A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 1C5 which are so open that hardly any lady would care to wear a dress made of it, unless she were anxious to exhib- it the garments which she would be ob- liged to wear under it. The grade of tarlton under consideration, of which an analysis will follow, is entirely too flimsy for a dress fabric. If the goods are taken between the thumb and forefinger with any degree of firmness and the surface of the fabric is drawn between them, the threads will readily Doaa ■■□c DDB* ■■DC ■■GO Fig. 2. give, or leave their original place. This would certainly be a poor feature in a fabric intended for dress goods. The fabric is woven in compai-atively wide widths; the coarser qualities are cnm- monly 58 inches in reed, including selvedge. The seLvedge is about % of an inch, two ends in one heddle, while the body of goods is drawn one end in one heddle, and each end into a sep- arate dent in the reed. harnesses, in the following order: 1, 3, 2, 4, the chain being built accordingly so as to give a plain weave. The warp is sized before it is put on the warp beam. ANALYSIS. Width of warp in reed. 58 inches. Finished width, 521,4 Inches; ends per inch finished. 20; picks per inch finish- ed, IS. Heed, 650x1. Ends in warp, 1,010; SO ends sel- vedge, two ends in one heddle; total, 1,090 ends. The take-up during the weaving is very little; the take-up in the finished goods, about 1 per cent. After the fabric is finished the threads lie prac- tically straight; this is due to the openness of the mesh. This readily il- lustrates that the closer the weave, the more take-up of warp yam. Warp yarn, l-:30s cotton. Filling, l-SOs cotton. Finished weight, 10 yards equal 7 ounces. The finished fabric carries about 12 per cent of siz- ing. FINISHING. After the fabric is taken from the loom, it is sent to the dyehouse. The TARLTON. The goods in v.-eaving have a tend- ency to roll up. that is, the selvedges roll toward the middle of the fabric; this is overcome by holding out the selvedges by means of the temple. The temple also prevents the chafing of the warp during weaving. LOOM REQUIRED. Any Hght-built loom with a compar- atively high running speed will answer for weaving tarltons, providing it is wide enough in the reed space. The warp is usually drawn in on four first process is to boil it off, in order to rid it of all foreign matter possible; then it is dyed or bleached as required. After this process and ;tfter the fabric is dried, it is then immersed in size. Sizing the fabric is usually dons in front of the drying cylinders. The goods pass from the size trough on to the drying cylinder, which practically com- pletes the finishing process. The goods are then doubled and put on to boards in the form of rolls, after which they are ready for the market. 166 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The machinery required to malve the counts of yarn of which tarlton is made v/ill be found in the second di- vision of mills, as give;! in a previous article. The counts used for this class of goods differ slightly, but for this article we will consider the counts to be l-50s for the warp yarn and 1-SOs for the jailing yara. These yarns are made of American cotton of about 1%- inch staple. This cotton is first mixed by hand, as large a quantity being mixed -it one time as possible. In fact, two large mixings should be made so that one batch may be drying out while the other is being used. At this lX)int the good sliver from all the ma- chines up to the slubber is mixed in, it being collected at regular intervals from the machines. An eye should be kept on this WASTE by the one in charge to see that too much waste is not being made at any one machine and also to see that it i.s broken up into short lengths before be- ing put into the mixings. Long lengths of sliver v/aste are apt to wind around the various rotating parts of the open- er and cause a "bung up," which re- quires time to remove and also is apt to cause a fire. If trunking is used to connect the opener to the breaker picker, be sure that no scraps of iron or other m.etal are around where they can work into the cotton, as this is also apt to cause a fire by x-^.oming in contact with the metallic parts of the r.Tachine and striking a spark,which ignites the oth- ' er cotton very quickly and often causes a fire on account of the currents of air which fan it into a flame. Keep the hopper full of cotton for reasons pre- A'iously given. The SPEED OF THE BEATER (two-bladed rigid type) of the opener is 1:500 revolutions per minute; the total weight of lap at the front is 40 pounds. These are doubled four times at the intermediate picker. The beater of this mechine may be either of a rigid type or a pin beater. If of a rigid type it makes 1,400 revolutions per minute; if a pin beater, 1,450 rev- olutions per minute. The total weight of lap at the front of this machine is 38 pounds or a 12-ounce lap. These laps are put up at the finisher picker and doubled 4 into 1. At this machine the cut-roving waste is mixed in with the raw sto-ck in the proportion of one lap of cut waste to three laps of raw stock. The cut-roving is first put through a process to take out the twist and then run through a picker to form it into a lap. The beater of this machine may be either a rigid or a pin type. If the former, it? speed should be 1,450 revolutions per minute; if the latter, 1,500 revolutions per minute. The TOTAL WEIGHT OF LAP at the front of this machine should be 3S pounds or a 14i/^-ounce lap. At this )nachine all laps are weighed, and if they A'-ary one-half pound from the standard weight they should be put up at the back and run over again. Al- ways keep a supply of laps ahead in case of breakdowns, etc. The laps are then put tip at the caras. The speed of the licker-in should be about 325 revolution.s per minute; flats should make one complete revolution every 55 minutes. The card clothmg should be 110s for cylinder and 120s for doffor and floats. Use a large doffer (either 26 or 27 inch diameter). Strip cards three times a day and see that they are ground all over once a month a whole day (twice a month grinding half a day is better). ALWAYS GRIND LIGHTLY. The card clothing should be looked af- ter at intervals to see that it is not faced or hooked. Before grinding, all jams should be taken and flats should be kept free from cotton embedded in the wire fillet. After grinding, the parts should be set in proper rela- tion to each other. The sliver at the front for the class of goods under de- scription shotild weigh 65 grains per yard and the production should be about 700 pounds per week of 60 hours. The cotton should be run through three processes of drawing frames. It will be found A GREAT ADVANTAGE to run metallic top rolls for this grade of goods. The weight of the sliver at the finisher drawing should be about 65 grains, the doublings at each process of drawing being 6 into 1. The hank roving at the slubber should be about .55. The slubber roving for both the warp and filling roving should be put through three processes of fly frames, the hank roving being as follows: .^or warp, first, 1.5'' hank: second, :i.50 hank; jack, 10 hank; for filling yarn, first, 1.50; second, 4 hank; jack, 16 hank. The roving for warp yam should be taken to the ring spinning room and spun into 50s coimt on a frame having the following particulars: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, V/2 inches: length of traverse. 6 inches; revolutions per minute of spindle, 10,- A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 167 000. The yarn is then spooled and warped and several warps put up at the slaslier and the required number of ends run on to a beam at the front. The filling yarn is spun into 80s on a fran'.e having the following particu- lars: Gauge of frame, 2^,4iiiches; di- ameter of ring, VA inches; length of traverse, 5 inches; revolutions per minute of spindle, 7,400. Dyeing Particulars. Tarltons are dyed on the jig ma- chine, or the color is boiled up in the starching process with the starch. The dyed colors, being faster, are mostly used. The following color is an ex- ample of a starched dyeing: ORANGE. One gallon of water; 6 ounces dex- trine; 2 ounces tetrazo orange C R. Mix cold. Boil for 30 minutes. Pass the pieces through a starch mangle, and dry on tenter frame. All one-dip colors can be dyed after this formula and any shade produced by varying the amount of color. RED. Three per cent tetrazo red B; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. PINK. Four ounces benzo fast pink 2 B L; 10 per cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal soda. LEMON YELLOW. One-half per cent chrysophenine; 10 per cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal soda. GREEN. Three per cent brilliant benzo green B; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent saJ soda. WINE. Two per cent diamine Bordeaux B; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per ceat sal soda. SCARLET. Two per cent diamine soarlet B; :i5 per cent Glauber'^'; 2 per cent sal soda. LIGHT BROWN. One-half per cent diamine catechine G; ^4 per cent diamine brown B; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. SLATE. One per cent diamine black B H; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal so- da. SKY BLUE. One per cent diamine sky blue F F; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. NAVY BLUE. Three per cent diamine blue R W; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. BLACK. Five per cent diamine jet black O; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sad soda. MAUVE. One-half per cent diamine violet N; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent saJ soda. GRAY. One per cent diamine gray G; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. ROSE. One-half per cent diamine rose B D; 15 per cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal soda. The pieces are starched and dried on a tenter frame. BROCATELLE. Brocatelle is a coarse brocaded or figured fabricof cotton and wool or silk and linen or cotton, used for tapestry and upholstery and sometimes used for dresses. The brocatelle used for dresses is much finer and necessa*rily lighter in weight than the fahric used for upholstery purposes. We will here consider the fabrics used for upholstery purposes only. This may be classed as a double clo'Ui fabric, with two warps and two fill- ings, a face warp and weft and a back wiarp and weft. These vrarps and fill- ings, however, interweave with one an- other, thereby binding together the two sets of warp and filling threads, with this peculiarity, that the face warp threads do not shov/ on the back of the fabric nor does the back filling show on the face of the fabric,whiIe,on the contrary, the fax:e filling shows on the bacJv and the back warp threads show on the face. The face war]-) threads give body to ;md also form the ornamental fea- ture of the fabric, which is the raised or brocaded figure in the cloth. These threads, when not forming the figure, lie buried between the face and back filling picks. The figure thus formed is usxially of an eight harneris sateen v.^eave, the end.s floating over seve 1 back filling picks and under one. while the back filling is used princi- pally to give weight to the fabric and accentuate the raised figure. Brocatelle, as already mentioned, is made with silk and wool, linen or cot- ton; the face is of silk, while the back has wool, linen or cotton, depending on the quality of fabric desired,as does Il38 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. also the quality of silk used in the fab- ric. The yams in all instances are DYED BEFORE WEAVING. The colors and number used depend upon the prevailing fashion. Some brocatelles are made up of several ool- ors on the face of the goods, while again others have but two — ^the figure and ground colors. The figure color ip. usually darker than tiie ground. For example, a dark olive may be used for figure color, that is, the faoe warp threads, while the ground color, face fiUinc picJis, may be a light salmon. The hack warp is usually the same a.i the face filling, while tlie back filling usually blends off to a lighter shade Dressing, 1 ends olive 50-2 silk; ]. end salmon 2-llOs coiton; total, 5 ends per warp pattern. 190 ends per inch in reed; reeded S ends 50-2 silk and 2 ends 2-llOs cotton in one dent; 19x10 denL reed. Ends per inch finished 200; fin- ished width of fabric, 49.4 inches. Filling: 116 picks per inch; 5S. 21s silk salmon; 58, 28s linen light olive; total 116. Linen 300 yards per pound; lOs* cot- ton. Filling arrangement: 1 pick 21s silk face; 1 pick 2Ss linen back; total, 2 picks, repeat. Weight per jarcl of finished fabric, 14.83 ounces. Fis of olive. The object is to have the colors blend well together and at the same time form a harmonious contrast. The ornamental feature of broca- telles is elaborate conventionalized floral figures which cover the greater portion of the surface of the fabric, about 75 per cent. The figures are hold and rich, repeating about iVz times across the width of the fabric. Fig. 1 gives an idea of the character of de- sign used. This is about one-half the gize it would be in the fabric. THE CONSTRUCTION is as follows: 7,904 ends 50-2 silk face v^arp. 1,970 ends 2-nOs rotton back warp. 16 ends 4-20s white cotton selvedge. Weight of various j'amis used: 6.04 ounces face warp. 2.60 ounces face filling. .70 oimce back warp. 5.46 ounces back filling. .03 ounce selvedge. 9,896 ends in warp. 14.83 ounces. LOOM REQUIRED. Brocatelle requires a heavy jacquard loom. A Cromptuu & Knowles com- bined broad loom, slow speed, would be a good one. The patterns require from 400 to 1,200 ends and over, in order to repeat. Consequently, a ma- chine that can operate the required number of ends is essential for the production of these fabrics. When a jixeat number of ends are required for the repeat of the pattern, two ma- A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 1(;9 chines are combined; foi- exan)plp.2-G00 maoliines wiill operate a 1,200 end pat- tern, but usually a French or fine in- dex machine is used that will operate the required number of ends. The pattern to be woven is first stamped on cards by means of a card cutting machine. This machine con- sists of a piunch box, containing 13 punches; if a 600 machine, 25; if a 1,- 200 machine, 24 for cutting the small- er holes and one for the peg holes. These cards, when placed on the jac- Quard machine over t!he loom, bear a direct relation to the v>'arp threads, raising and dropping them according to the pattern. The warp threads in the drawing in are Irept separate fro'in each other; that is, the face warp threads are drawn throug'h certain }niails as likewise are the back warp threads, although both sets of threads are represented on the one card. FINISHING. These fabrics reouire no finishing. They are smoothed and folded and tiien are ready for the 'jpholsiterer. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The mills which make the cotton yarns for brocatelle wili be foimd in the second and sometimes the first di- vision of mills, as given in a previous lesson. Brocatelle is a fabric made up in many different fibres, but the fabric under description is composed of silk and cotton, the back wurp and sel- vedge lieing composed of cotton jiarns. It is these yams that we will describe. The cotton back warp yams are 2-il')s cotton yarns. while theselvedge is com. posed of 4-20s cotton yarns. The cot- ton used for the back warp of this count would he of a good American cotton of about 1 9-16 inch staple. This yarn should be put through a bale breaker and carried to ihe bins by means of a blower and trunking. Thrs will insure the cotton at this point be- ing dry, anr; in a more "picked out" state than when hand mixing is done. The cotton is mixed at the bale breaker in the usual manner.each bale being first stapled to make sure that the cotton is all up to standard. COTTON 1\TUST BE DRY. If the mixing is done by hand it should be allowed to stand as lon,'^? as possible before using, so that it will be thoroughly dry. Too much care cannot be taken at this point as all carders know what trouble damp cotton makes. The srood sliver wa.=;te from the ma- chines up to the slubber is mixed in at this point, care lieing taken to see that only ihe cotton of the same grade and length of staple is thrown into the bin. This waste should not be put all in one place, but should be distributed all OA'^er the top and front or back of the mixing. The cotton is next run through an opener and THREE PROCESSES OF PICKING At the opener the hopper should be Icept well filled so as to feed the break- er picker an even sheet. The breaker pic]:er beater is generally of the rigid type, either two or three blades being used. If two bliades are used, the speed should be about 1,500 revolutions per minute; if three blade."., the sp?ed shoiild be proportionately slower. The total weight of the lap at the front is 37V2 pounds or a 14-ounce lap. These laps are doubled four times at the in- termediate. This picker is generally provided with a iwo-bladed beater, the speed of which for this class of cotton should not exceed 1,450 revolutions per minute. Some overs.eers PRPJFER A PIN BEATER at the machine and a rigid beater at Ihe finisher and some just the reverse. If a bin beater is used, the fan does not have to be run at such a high r?.te of speed, as this beater creates consid- erable draught itself. The total ^\eight of the lap at this picK'er is ?>6 pounds or a 13-ounce lap. These are put up at the finisher picker and doubled 4 into 1. The speed of this beater, two- bladed rigid type, is 1.400 revolutions per minute. The total weight of 'the lap is 35 pounds or a 12% -ounce lap. The cotton at this picker receives 42 beats per minute. The lai»s are put up at the card. The licker-in srjeed should be about 350 revolutions ])er minute. The top flats i-iake one cam- plete revolution in 40 minutes. The cards should be ground and set once a month, stripped three limes a day and cleaned and oiled twice a day; keep the front of the cards always clean fro?n fiy, etc. Collect flat strips at regular intervals, not too long ap.art, so that they will fall over the doffer and not get into the good work. The sliver fl.t the front should weigh 60 grains per yard, and the production should be 550 pounds per week of 60 hours. This sliver is put throu.gh THfiEE PROCESSES OF DRAWING. The ton rolls used may be either me- tallic or leather top rolls. These sihOuld be looked out for at all times, but esper-ially so in hot weather to see that they are in perfect condition. Keep 170 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. sweaty hands off of the varnish on the rolls. Varnish rolls frequently. A small piece of borax in the mixture will help harden the varnish. The weight of the sliver at the finisher drawiis Is 60 grains per yard. "When the v/-eight ?s kept at the drawings, They should be sized at least three times a day. This is then put through the slubber and made into .55 hank. The roving; is then put through three processes of fly frames, the hank rov- ing at each process being as follows: First. 2.25; second, 6.50, and jack. IS.bO, The roving is next spun into 110s on a frame having the following particu- lars: Diameter of ring, 1% inches: longth of traverse, 5 inches; speed of spindle, 9,400 revolutions per mintite. This is then spooled, and twisted Into 2-ply yarn and then run on a warper and through a slasher. COTTON USED FOR SELVEDGE. The cotton to make the selvedge yarn is 1^,4-inch staple. At the pickers the changes from the above are as fol- lows: Speed of beater, breaker, 1,500 revolutions per minute; intermediate, 1,450 revolutions per minute and fin- isher, 1,450 revoltttious per minute. The weights of the laps are as fol- lows: Breaker, 40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap: intermediate, 37 pounds or a 12- ounce lap; finisher,35 pounds or a ViVz- ounce lap. At the cards note the fol- lowing changes from the back warp yarn: Speed of top flats. 1 revolution every 50 minutes; weight of sliver, 65 grains per yard; production per week of 60 hours, 750 pounds. Draft of card should not be over 100. At the finisher drawing the weight of sliver at the finisher is 70 grains per yard. It is AN ADVANTAGE to use metallic top rolls on this stock at the drawing frame. Slubber roving should be .55 hank. There should be two processes of fly frames, the hank rov- ing at each process being as follows: First intermediate, 1.75 hank; second, 5 hank. The moving is then taken to the spinning ix)om and spun into 20s yam on a frame, the particulars of which have been given before. The yarn Is then spooled and t-wisted into 4-ply 20s. ber's salt and 3 per cent sulphuric acid. For 100 pounds wool yarn: LIGHT SLATE. Four ounces patent blue B; % ounce orange I I. OLIVE BROWN. One per cent orange II; % ounce lanafuchsine S B; 4 ounces fast yellow S; 1 ounce indigo blue N. LIGHT BROWN. Two per cent orange II, iy2 per cent fast yellow extra; 4 ounces azo crim- son L; 6 ounces fast green B. OLIVE GREEN. One and three-quarters per cent in- digo blue N; 1 per cent tropaeoline O O. GREEN. Two and one-half per cent indigo blue N; V2 per cent fast yellow S; 1% tropaeoline O O. BLACK. Five per cent palatine black 4 B. VIOLET. Two per cent acid violet 4 B N. SCARLET. Two per cent palatine scarlet 4 R. SA.LMON. One and one-half ounces rlioda- raine 5 G; 20 grains eosine yellowish. ROSE. Five per cent rhodamine G. LAVENDER. One ounce aoid violet 4 B N; 30 grains orange I I: 100 gi-ains fast acid violet 10 B. Dyeing Particulars. The colors aiv d\ td on the silk, wool, o-r cotton, in the yam. The colore used dppeni on the prevailing fashion. The following v,-ool colors are dyed in the acid hath of 20 per cent Glau- SILK COLORS. Silk yarn is dyed in the soap bath with the addition of acetic aoid. SALMON. One ounce rhodamine 5 G. LIGHT TiAVENDER. One-quarter acid violet 4 B N; 100 grains rhodamine G. OLIVE GREEN. One per cent fast green B; 1 per cent fast yellow Ex.; 4 ounces orange I I. ROSE. One per cent rhodamine 5 G. NAVY BLUE. Two per cent indigo blue N; 4 ounces acid violet 2 B N. RED. One per cent fast red R. LIGHT GREEN. One per cent acid Victoiia green S N. A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 171 LIGHT YELLOW. Four ounces tartarzine S. COTTON COLORS. BLUE. Four per cent brilliant benzo blu<3 6 B; 20 per oeait Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. LIGHT BROV/N. Two per cent diamine brown E; 1 per cent diamine fast yellow B; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. OLIVE BROWN. Three per cent chloramine yellow M; '^/z per cent benzo dark greea B; V^ per cent benzo brown B. TAN. One-half per cent benzo fast orange S; 2 per cent chrysophenine; 2 ounces benzo fast black. GREEN. Eight per cent immedial green G G; S per cent sodium sulphide; 3 i)er cent sofla ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. NAVY BLUE. Ten per cent immedial in done 3 B; 10 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. OLIVE. Five per cent pjTogene olive G: 5 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per cent soda ash: 20 per cent Glauber's salt. RED. Five per cent r)enzo Tast red 4 B S; ?.0 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. TERRY PILE FABRICS, Terry is a fabric in which the dis- tinguishing effect is small loops of warp yarn, uncut pile, projecting from one or both sides of the cloth, these loops being tied to the ground cloth in regular or irregular order as desired. The terry principis of construction. which has been developed with the pow- er loom, is used extensively in the manufacture of cotton terry toweling, known generally as Turkish toweliig. These towels are made in various sizes and grades from the cheap fab- rics made almost entirely from waste yarns to tht)se made of the best qual- ity of cotton obtainable. Terry pile is the simplest of the many types of warp pile goods, the ef- fect being obtained without the use of wires. Two warps are required: (a) the ground warp; (b) the pile warp. The ground warp contains the sel- vedge and ground ends, and is wound on the regular loom beam. This beam is heavily weighted in the loom. The pile warp is usually wound on a light beam and is allowed to let off the warp very easily. The reason for the difference in ten- sion on the warps is to allow the ground warp to remain tight and the FIG *■ ®3)<®X no s pile warp to go forward easily when it is required to loop. Figs. 1, 2 and 3 will serve to illus- trate the relation of a terry design to tlte cloth. Circles indicate picks; dotted lines, ground ends; continuous lines, pile ends. The numbered ends in each figure correspond. Assuming F to represent the fell of the cloth, and the last pick of a re- peat. Fig. 2 shows how the three suc- ceeding picks A, B and C would appear when about to be driven to the fell of the cloth, and Fig. 3 a section of the cloth with the loop completed. Figs. 4, 5 and 6 illustrate a design and sectional view of a terry cloth In which the pile is distributed on one side of the cloth only. Cloth of this type is used for furniture coverings and as a ground for embroidered ef- fects. Figured terry goods are made by com hi Ting colored yarns and terry 172 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. effects, the terry being thrown on eith- er side when the other is weaving a ground weave. The face and bacli are reversible. LOOM REQUIRED. In order to weave terry toweling a dobby loom differing from the ordi- nary loom is required. The principal point of difference is in Its having mechanism to allow two (ia three-pick terry) out of three picks to be beat- en up to within a certain distance of the fell of the cloth, this distance de- pending upon the length of pile de- sired, then forcing these two picks, along with every third pick, to the fell of the cloth. The object of this is to allow the first two picks to fasten themselves into the pile ends, say one-half inch from the cloth, so that when the three picks are driven home together the pile ends will go- along with them,mak- ing a loop slightly less than v... inch. At the same time the three picks will slide over the ground ends, these in- terlacing with the filling as in an or- dinary cloth. To accomplish the three-pick move- ment to form the loop one of two methods is adopted: (a) By a rocking or oscillating reed which is held back or forced to the fell of the cloth as de- sired; (b) by a rocking whip roll and back roll terry motion. With this de- vice the reed Is held firm, the cloth be- ing moved back toward the rear of the loom every third pick. A backward and forward movement, similar to that of the cloth, is imparted to the temples. The length of pile can be varied as de- sired, or the weave caa be changed from terry to regular, or from regular to terry as required. A loom for weaving terry towels, be- sides having mechanism for making the pile, contains mechanism for one or more of the following: (a) A box motion, for inserting different colors or kinds of filling; (b) a fringe motion, for making fringe at the end of each towel; (c) a motion for changing the weave from terry to re'gular construc- tion or vice versa at the beginning and end of each towel. This is usually ac- complished with a multiplier or re- peater, or with a measuring device which automatically brings into play the pattern chain reqaiviMi. Terry looms are usually heavily built ana contain stands for at least two- warp beams. FINISHING. Some toweling is sold in the gray, but most of it is bleached. First proc- ess: Boiled with 4 per cent caustic soda, boil for 12 hours, rinsed through, water; teco.id, again bf»iled with \ per cent caustic soda, boil for 10 hours; third, passed through acid bath, % degree Tw. sulphuric acid, rinsed with water; fourth, passed through chlorine water at % degree Tw. aad laid down in bin until white, ; fifth, passed through acid bath of % degree Tw. sulphuric acid and rinsed well with water, dried and cut up into towels. Carding and Spinning Particulars. ThQ yarns of which terry cloth are made vary from those made of waste stock to those made of long staple combed stock and it would be hard to describe one particular grade to make it cover all terry cloth. For this article we will suppose the average count of the yarn is l-45s and will give the carding and spin- ning particulars for this count of yarn in both warp and filling yarns. We will also consider that the stock is carded. THE MACHINERY USED would be found in the equipment found in the second division of mills, as giv- en in a previous article. The cotton would be brought from the cotton shed and sampled by the one in charge of this job; sometimes it is the overseer, sometimes the "super," and sometimes, in large mills, a cot- ton sampler is employed. All bales containing cotton not up to grade or length of staple should be placed at one side and not put into the mixing. The mixing should be as large as pos- sible and may be done either by hand or, as is more generally the custom, by a bale breaker. One bale breaker is able to take care of a great many bales of cotton per week. The cotton is fed to the bale breaker from several bales of cotto'n, a little being taken from each. This is so that the cotton from all the bales will be intermixed, and in this manner a more even yarn is apt to result. After passing the bale breaker the cotton is conveyed to the mixing bins by an arrangement of endless lattices, which may be moved when it is desired to drop the cotton into another bin. THE MIXING should be allowed to stand as long as possible, especially if the mixing is done by hand. The cotton is then put through a bale breaker and three processes of picking. The hopper of the opener or feeder should always be kept more than half full so that the A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 173 spiked lifting apron will always be carrying a load to the pin beater. In this manner an even amount of cotton is fed to the feed rolls of the break- er picker. The breaker picker is pro- vided with either a two or three armed rigid type of beater. If two bladed, the speed should not exceed 1,500 rev- olutions per minute for this grade and staple of cotton (1%-inch peeler). The total weight of the lap at the front end of the breaker picker is 40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap. These laps are put up at the intermediate picker and doubled 4 into 1. This picker may be provided either with a rigid or pin type of beater. They both have a great many favorites among the trade. The speed of a rigid two-bladed type should be about 1,450 revolutions per minute. THE FAN SPEED should be about 1,050 revolutions per minute. If a pin beater is used, the speed of the fan may be reduced. This is on account of the amount of draft that this beater creates itself. The total weight of the lap at the head end of this machine is 37 pounds or a 12- ounce lap. These laps are put up at the finisher picker and doubled 4 into 1. What has been said of the beater at the intermediate picker ap- plies here, except that the speed of a two-bladed rigid type should be 1,400 revolutions per minute. This gives the cotton passing through it about 42 beats or blows per inch. The cut rov- ing is brought to the picker room and put through a special picker (to take out the twisf) and then is run through a breaker picker to form it into a lap, and these laps are mixed with the raw stock at the finisher picker in the pro- portion of three laps raw stock to one lap cut waste. The total WEIGHT OF THE LAP at the front of the finisher picker should be about 35 pounds or a 12^- ounce lap. These laps are put up at the card; the draft of which should not exceed 110. The card clothing used should be for carding medium counts. This should be ground at least once a month all over, after which the card should be reset. Use gauges that are straight and not bent all out of shape. The cards should be stripped three times a day and kept clean. The speed of the licker-in should be about 300 revolutions per minute and the flats should make one complete revolution every 50 minutes. The weight of the sliver should be 65 grains per yard, with a production of 700 pounds for a week of CO hours. Use as large a doffer as possible. This sliver is put up at the drawing frame and doubled G into 1. The sliver should be run through THREE PROCESSES OF DRAWING. Either metallic or leather-covered top rolls may be used to good advantage. Whichever top roll is used, it should be kept in the best of shape. The weight of the sliver at the front of the finisher drawing should be about 70 grains per yard. This is put up at the slubber and made into .55 hank roving. This is put through three processes of fly frames and made into 9 hank, the hank roving at each proc- ess being as follows: 1st, 1.25 hank; 2d, 3.50 hank, and fine, 9 hank. This is then taken to the ring spinning room and made into 45s warp yarn on a frame with the following particulars: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, iy2 inches; length of traverse, 6 inches; speed of spindles, 10,000 rev- olutions per minute; twist per inch, 30.19. This is then spooled and warped and the required number of warps put up at the slasher to give the required number of ends at the front warp. For making 45s filling yarn use a frame having the following par- ticulars: Diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 5l^ inches; twist per inch, 25; speed of spindles, 8,500 revolutions per minute. SATINE, or SATEEN. Satine, or sateen, is a cotton fabric with a smooth, lustrous surface resem- bling satin. The latter is made of silk. The weaves for satins and sat- ines are similar. Satines, which are of two kinds, warp satines and filling satines, are made in a great variety of weights and qualities, and are used for many pur- poses. The bulk of the goods are made on the filling satin principle and are used for linings, corset covers, dress goods, etc. These are usually woven white and are bleached, or piece dyed in varying colors. Warp satines are used for mattress and furniture coverings. Stripe effects are made by using a warp containing different colors and a warp satine weave. Warp and filling satines are also printed, to a consid- erable extent, the smooth face lend- 174 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. ing itself very readily to this process. COLORED EFFECTS made in the loom are confined to stripes made when a warp satine weave is used, because the warp cov- ers the filling almost entirely. In a filling satine the filling practically cov- ers all the warp, and color inserted here would show in harry effect across the cloth. The smooth, lustrous effect of sat- ines is due in large measure to the weave used. Briefly stated, satine weaves are made on from five ends up- wards; they are complete on the same number of ends as picks; each end and each pick interlaces only twice in each repeat; the interlacings do not support each other, at least one end or one pick separating them. In filling satines each end is raised over one pick only in eacli repeat; warp satiaes. vice versa. Figs. 1 and 2 illustrate the only two filling satine weaves that can be made on five ends. Both of these weaves are ■■■DIH ■■■■■■a BBDBBBB BBBBOBB OnDBD nnann ■■DHBI BBBBBBG DBoaa DDQaB ■■■■■DB BOBBBBB ODDDB Daaoa ■DBBBBB BBBDBBB DDBaa DDDBD BBBBDBfl BBMBBQB maaaa ■ GDDn DBBBBBB DBBBBBB used in the trade, some buyers prefer- ring one to the other, according to the effect desired. Figs. 3 and 4 show warp satine weaves on seven ends each. The constructions of filling satine fabrics vary from about 64 to over 100 sley and 120 to 300 or more picks. The following, which show results of the analyses of five different satine fabrics, will serve to show that the satine principle of construction is used in fabrics of widely differing qualities. Sample No. 1. Colored warp satine stripe cloth for upholstery; 96 ends and 52 picks per inch; 7s cotton yam for warp and 14s for filling. Woven with weave Fig. 5, a 5-end warp satine weave. The filling in this particular sam- ple is twisted harder than the warp. Sample No. 2. A fine warp satine of good quality, made with a 7-end weave; 152 sley and 80 picks; 2-50s warp and 30s filling. Samples 1 and 2, as well as almost all warp satines,on account of the large proportion of warp on the face, would be woven face down in the loom. Sample No. 3. A filling satine of fair quality; 72 sley and 150 picks; 45s warp and 70s filling. Weave Fig. 1. Sample No. 4. 96 sley and 280 picks; 45'S warp and 97s filling. Weave Fig. 1. Sample No. 5. 104 sley and 210 picks; 60s warp and 75s filling. Weave Fig. 1. Samples 4 and 5 are of good quality. KIND OF LOOM REQUIRED. Satines, whether warp or filling, are usually woven on single box cam looms of heavier build than plain sheeting looms. The selvedges are actuated by a selvedge motion. If woven on dob- by looms, the selvedge motion is dis- pensed with. One warp only is required. The ends are drawn through the harnesses in straight order. In practice it has been found ad- visable, when weaving heavily picked satines, to use a reed that is no deep- er than is necessary. For warp satine, on account of the large number of ends and comparatively few picks per inch, deeper reeds are used, so that the wires will give, to some extent, for knots. FINISHING SATINES. Satine tickings are sheared and then calendered with hot steam rollers, the steaming being done in front of the machines; the appearance is improved by gas singeing. A method of finish- ing ordinary satines is to first saturate them with a mixture of corn or potato starch, China clay or baryta and tal- low. To this is added soap or oleine, with wax and glue size. Tliey are then mangled, dried, damped, calendered, folded and pressed. For printed or dyed satines, starch with a small portion of soda crystals for a stiff finish, and soluble oil with soda for a soft finish are used. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Satines are made up of various counts of yarns, the different samples analyzed being only a few of the va- rious grades made, but they illustrate the various grades very well. For the carding and spinning particulars of a satine.sample No. 5 will be taken as an example. This is made up of combed yarns of 60s for vsnarp and 75s for fill- ing. The cotton used would be Egyp- tian of 1%-inch staple. This grade of satine is made in either the second or third division of mills as give"n in a previous lesson. Of course THE EQUIPMENT will have to include combers. The cot- ton is first sampled and then mixed In a manner that has been described in previous lessons. It is better to use a bale breaker, but cotton may be mixed by hand. If mixed by hand, let the mixing stand a little longer to dry and open out as the cotton is com- pressed very tightly in the bales. A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 175 These bales weigh considerably more than the American bales. The good waste from the machines up to the slubber should be mixed in at the mixing bin. The cotton is next put through an opener and three proc- esses of picking. The hopper of the opeuer should always be kept OVER HALF FULL, so that an even amount of cotton will be fed to the breaker picker. The breaker picker is provided with either a two or three bladed beater of a rigid type. If the former, the speed should be about 1,350 revolutions per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front should be 40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap. These laps are put up at the interme- diate picker and doubled 4 into 1. 'ine beater of this picker is either a two or three bladed rigid or a pin beater. If the former, the speed of it should be 1,250 revolutions per minute. If a pill beater is used, the fan speed should be reduced for reasons given in a pre- vious article. The total weight of the lap at the front should be 36 pounds or a 12-ounce lap. These laps are doubled 4 into 1 at the finisher picker. At this picker the cut roving waste, which has previously been put through a roving picker, to take out the twist, and a breaker, to form the fluffy mass into a lap, is mixed in in THE PROPORTION of three laps of raw stock to one lap of cut roving waste. If the equipment of machinery does not include a roving picker, the cut roving is mixed in at the mixing bin, care being taken to spread it over the entire mixing. The speed of the finisher picker beater of a rigid two-bladed type is 1,200 revolu- tions per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front is 35 pounds or a 1214-ounce lap. These laps are put up at the card. The wire fillet used should be 120s for cylinder and 130s for doffer and flats. Use a 26 or 27 inch diameter doffer. The speed of the cyl- inder should be 160 revolutions per minute; licker-in, 300 revolutions per minute. Top flats should make one complete revolution in 35 minutes. The draft of the card 01 this stock should not be less than 125. THE CARDS . should be stripped three times a day and ground at least once a month, at which time the various settings should be gone over. Set doffer to cylinder with a 5 gauge. The sliver at the front weighs 55 grains per yard and the production is about 475 pounds per week of 60 hours. This sliver is taken to the sliver lap machine and doubled 14 into 1 for an S%-inch lap (wide) or 20 into 1 for a 10%-inch lap. These laps are generally put through a ribbon lap machine, the weight of them being 330 grains per yard for an 8%-inch lap or 380 grains for a lOi^-inch lap. The laps are doubled 6 into 1 at the ribbon lap, the weight at the front being 265 for an 8%-inch lap and 320 grains for a 1014-inch lap. These laps are put up at the comber and doubled either 6 or 8 into 1, according to whether the comber is a six or eight head comber. THE EIGHT-HEAD COMBER is the one that is being put in nowa- days, very few of the six-head being sold. The speed of the comber should be at least 90 nips per minute, and may run up as high as 105. The per- centage taken out should be about 20. The weight of the sliver at the front is 40 grains per yard. The comjDed sliver is next put through two processes of drawing, the speed of the front roll being 400 revolutions per minute. Either metallic or leather-covered top rolls may be used, generally the latter. These should be varnished frequently and those that are damaged, fluted, loose or not true should not be run. If the latter, they may be buffed, as may also the leather rolls at the comber. See that the stop motions are all in working order, and that the traverse motion is set and working so that the whole surface of the leather rolls is used. THE SETTING or spread of the rolls for this stock should be 1% inches front roll to sec- ond: I'l/^ inches second roll to third, and 1% or 1% inches third to back roll according to bulk of cotton being fed. The doublings at the drawing frames are 6 into 1. The weight of the sliver at the front is 60 grains per yard. This sliver is put through the slubber and made into .70 hank roving, after which it is put through three processes of fly frames and made into the follow- ing hank roving at each frame: First intermediate. 1.75; second intermediate, 4.50; and fine, 15: at the fine frame the lays per inch on the bobbin being 48. The standard for twist for this kind of cotton is 1.2 multiplied by the square root of the count. For ex- ample, the count or hank is 15. The square root of 15 is 3.87, which, mul- tiplied by 12, equals 4.64. If the stand- ard for twist on this frame was 94.9. the twist gear used would be 20. The method by which this is found is by divldins: the constant v'or twist by the standard for twist (American frames). Look out for the leather top rolls, traverse and clearers to see that each 176 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. is performiag its duty properly. Of course the SPEED OF THE ROLLS is very important, the general method being to gain 1-16 of an inch over stock at each roll. The production should be about 33 hank per spindle per week of 60 hours. The 15-hank roving is taken to the ring spinning room and made into 60s warp yarn on a frame having a gauge of 2% inches; ring diameter of IVz inches, and length of traverse,6 inches; with spindle speed of 10,000 revolutions per minute. The yarn is then put through a spooler and warper and then a slasher. The filling yarn is made from the 15-ha'ik roving on a frame having a li/4-inch diameter ring, 5-inch traverse and spindle speed of 7,400 revolutions per min- ute. The roving for the filling yarn may be taken to the mule room, but for this class of goods is generally taken to the ring frame spinning room. Dyeing and Finishing Particulars. PINK. One-half per cent Erika pink; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. HELIOTROPE. One per cent tetrazo chlorine lilac B; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. NAVY BLUE. Three per cent tetrazo blue Rx; 25 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. GRAY. One-half per cent thio gray B; 10 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. LIGHT SLATE. One-half per cent direct black S; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. PEACOCK BLUE. Two per cent Eboli blue B; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. RED. Three per cent direct red B; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. SLATE. Two per cent katigen black S W; 2 per cent sodium sulphide; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent soda ash. ROYAL BLUE. Three per cent brilliant benzo blue 6 B; 1/4 per cent benzo fast violet R; 25 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. TAN BROWN. Three per cent benzo fast orange S; 2 per cent chrysophenine; ^/^ per cent benzo fast black; 30 per cent Glfi- ber's; 2 per cent sal soda. SKY BLUE. One and three-quarters per ce:t dia- mine sky blue F F; 25 per cent Glau- ber's; 2 per cent sal soda. BROWN. Three per cent diamine brown B; 30 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. WINE. Three per cent diamine Bordeaux B; 30 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. SCARLET. Two and one-half per cent diamine scarlet B; 25 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. Satines are finished by passing through a calender machine to give a fine lustre finish and are sometimes placed on a beetle machine and beetled for two hours. They are starched first with a very light sitarch, and a lit- tle white soluble softening, to give a soft, soiiooth feel. MUSLIN-BUTCHER'S MUSLIN. Muslin is commercially understood to mean a soft cotton fabric, used for various purposes, but principally for dress goods, underwear, sheetings, etc. Some muslins are named from their place of production, as Asoreem, Dac- ca, India, Madras and Swiss muslin, while some are named from the use to which they are chiefly put, as butcher's muslin, which derives its name from the fact that it is chiefly used by grocery men and butchers in the form of aprons and coverings. It is a strong bleached fabric, well suited for the purposes. Muslin is so called from Mosul, a city on the banks of the Tigris, where was once the chief seat of its manufacture, but to-day large quantities are manufactured in the United States. The quality of muslin is as varied as are the names by which it is known. Butcher's muslin is but a substitute for butcher's linen. Cotton is cheaper and almost as durable, ana because of this it has forced itself to the front. Butch- er's muslin is easily distinguished from the others by its coarseness. However, considerable quantities are used for summer outing dresses, for which purposes the bleached fabric only is used. The unbleached is used principally for sheetings and some- times for pillow-cases. The un- bleached fabric is preferred where du- ^:Mi^m, /*^^' A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 177 xability is the chief object. It i.s a common fact that unbleached fabrics will wear better than bleached. Muslin is used only i:i the bleached or unbleached state. The fabric is not dyed. As previously mentioned, there are various kinds of muslin; in fact, any- thing in the line of soft cotton fabrics may be termed muslin. The name by which a particular kind is commonly known may vary likewise in quality, as, for example, there are several qualities of butcher's muslin, as an analysis would prove. Analysis of a fair grade of butcher's muslin, which retails at 15 cents per yard: Width in reed, 0IV2 inches; fin- ished width, 36 inches; ends in warp, 1,900: 1.84-1 in body; 28 ends each feide equal 56, selvedge; total, 1,900; 900 X 2 reed; 52 ends per inch fin- ished; warp, l-12s cotton; take-up during weaving, 8 per cent; filling, 40 picks per inch in loom: 42 picks per inch finished; l-15s cotton; weight per yard in the gray, 5 ounces. LOOM REQUIRED. Muslin is a plain woven fabric; con- sequently any loom may be used in the weaving of these goods. The cost of production is of course reduced in proportion to the speed of the loom and the number of looms a weaver can take care of. The least expense would be incurred by using a Northrop loom. THE WARP should be sized so as to withstand the chafing during weaving. As a rule all single yarns are sized before they are beamed. The warp is drawn in on eight harnesses, straight drafting. Fig. 1 shows design. DBoaaaaa upmamuua auauamam ■aiGBDBD amamamam mamnmama amauamuu uamumamzi Fig-. 1. FINISHING. The unbleached receives little or no finishing. After it comes from the loom, it is simply boiled off, dried, made up into rolls and then shipped. When the fabric is to be bleached, it is first boiled off, then subjected to the bleaching chemicals, after which it is sometimes subjected to a very light sizing, composed of corn, or wheat, glycerine, bees' or Japan wax, after which it is run through a rotary press, then made up into rolls, and shipped. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yarns of which Dutcher's mus- lin is made are of a low count and are made in mills of the first division. The grade of cloth is sometimes made up of raw stock and a certain percent- age of waste. The raw stock used very rarely exceeds % inch in staple and is of a low-grade American cotton. While the same care is not taken of this class cotton at the different proc- esses for this cloth, still care should be take 1 to see that each machine is working properly to its best advan- tage for production. In this class of goods production is THE FIRST CONSIDERATION and quality the second. This does not mean that quality should be sacrificed wholly for production, but thau the machines should be driven to a greater extent and the best possible work turned off of them under these conditions. For ex- ample, at the card the top flats should not be set or driven at ine same speed as when finer goods are made, and so it is with all the ma- chines. The cotton mixings should always be as large as possible and should be allowed to stand as long as possible before being used. This gives the cotton a chance to dry out. A bet- ter plan (if there is room enough) is to have two large mixings and use the cotton from one while the other is drying out. If cotton is very damp, the heat should be turned on to help dry it out. This is generally done at night or over Saturday and Sunday. It is at this point that the good waste from all the machines is mixed in, care being taken to see that the waste is spread as evenly as possible over the mixing. As the cotton is gener- ally quite dirty, it is put through an opener and three processes of picking. The hopper of the opener should al- waj^s be kept full of cotton. The open- er is connected directly with the breaker picker and this machine is provided with either a two or three bladed rigid beater. If of a two-blade type THE SPEED should be about 1,550 revolutions per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front should be about 40 pounds, or a 16-ounce lap. These laps are put up and doubled four into one at the intermediate picker. This beater is generally of a two or thret bladed rigid type and if the former its speed is 1.500 revolutions per minute. The lans at the front of this machine weigh 38 pounds total weight and 10 ¥ 178 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. ounces per yard. The laps are put up at the finisher picker and doubled four into one. This machine is generally provided with a two-bladed rigid type of beater having a speed of about 1,- 500 revolutions per minute. The laps at the head end weigh 40 pounds or 14% ounces to a yard. An allowance of 10 ounces either side of standard is made with this staple cotton. If the lap varies more than this, it should be run oyer again. These laps are put up at THE CARD. This should be set coarse and have No. 100 wire fillet on cylinder and top flat, the doffer fillet being No. 110. The draft of card should not exceed 100. Strip cards at least three times a day. The cards on this stock need more stripping than when long-stapled stock is used, because of the greater bulk passing throug'h and also on ac- count of the short staple, which fills up the wire. The card sliver weighs 65 grains per yard and the production should be about 1,000 pounds per week of 60 hours. This is put through two processes of drawing frames. It is of great advantage to use metal- lic rolls on this class of goods. The speed of front rolls is 400 revolutions per minute. Keep rolls free from dirt and fly. The sliver is put through the slubber and made into .40 hank roving. This is put through two processes of fly frames, having the following hank roving: 3.30 at the first and 3.25 hank at second. The roving ic then taken to the spinning room and made intp 15s on the filling frame and 12s on the warp frame. Use a warp frame with 3-inch gauge, 2i'^-inch ring and 7-inch traverse, with a 16.45 twist per inch and spindles revolving at 9,000 revolu- tions per minute. This yarn is then spooled and wound on a warper. Enough beams are put up at the back of the slasher to give a beam with the required number of ends m front. To make 15s filling yarn, use a frame having 2%-inch gauge, li/^-inch diam- eter ring, 61/i-inch traverse, 12.59 twist per inch and spindle speed of 6,900 revolutions per minute. HENRIETTA CLOTH, Henrietta cloth is a light-weight fabric for women's wear, made in all colors from single worsted yarn, with silk mixture in the best qualities. The cheaper qualities are made with cotton and worsted, the cotton yam being for the warp, while the worsted is used for filling. Henriettas are made in various qualities; for exam- ple, the "all worsted" from various grades of fine worsted yarn; the worsted and silk mixture from various grades of each; the "cotton and worst- ed" made up in various qualities of cotton and worsted yarn. When the fabric is made with differ- ent qualities of yarn, that is, the warp differing from the filling in quality or kind, the cheaper quality or kind is in all instances used for warp. The rea- son for this is readily understood, when the character of the wea-ve is taken into consideration. The weave for this fabric is a one up, two down twill, the weave repeating on three ends and three picks. Fig. 1 shows. namanmnam maam jDbgq uamaamaam amoomaama maanaamao inmaamaam Dmnnmaama maamaamaa Fig. 1. DDDncDDaa nnGaDLBDD noDDnBDnD aaaaBDDna nnamDDoaa DDBDnDDDD DBnnnDDGD ■naaDDDCD Fig. 2. nine repeats of the weave; Fig. 2, drawing-in draft. This weave will show but one-third of the warp on the face of the fabric and two- thirds of the filling; the filling is usually of a slightly coarser count than the warp, especially when cotton warp is used, consequently the filling, to a certain extent, covers the warp yarn. The two factors, the weave, viz., — 5 twill and the coarser count of filling, give to the face of the fabric a much finer feel than the back. The feel or handle of lienri- ettas is very important, consequently the above-mentioned particulars should be kept in view when construct- ing a fabric of this character, as its commercial value is largely influenced by the feel of the fabric. PIECE DYED. The cloth is dyed after it is woven. Considerable quantities of cotton and worsted henriettas are bleached or fi-^lshed in the gray; when the cotton and worsted fabric is to be dyed, the cotton yarn is prepared so as to take color in a worsted dye. otherwise two dyeing processes would be necessary — one for the cotton yarn and one for the worsted. The one dip or union dye makes the cost of finishing but A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 179 normal. Preparing the cotton yarn for the worsted dye is accomplished be- fore the yarn is warped or beamed. ANALYSIS. Width of warp in reed, 38 inches. Width of fabric finished, 35 inches. Ends per inch in reed, 70. Ends per inch finished, 76. Reed, 35x2. Ends in warp 2620, plus 40, 20 ends each side selvedge; total ends in warp, 2,660. Warp yarn, l-oOs cotton. FILLING. l-40s worsted. 64 picks per inch in loom. 66 picks per inch finished. Finished weight per yard, three ounces. WEAVING. Henriettas are usually woven on dobby looms, the speed of which is from 120 to 140 picks per minute; it ib essential that the warp is well sized, adding about 15 per cent of weight to the yarn; wheat, flour, sago or potato starch may be used; in connection with this, a small quantity of chloride of magnesium should be added to give the yarn the necessary moisture and pliability. FINISHING. First process: After the fabric is woven, it is scoured, then bleached, dyed or left in the gray as the case may be, after which the fabric is sub- jected to a very light singeing in order to slightly stiffen the cloth, after which it is pressed, then made up in- to rolls. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yams which make up henrietta cloth are made up of two fibres, worst- ed for the filling and cotton for the warp yarn. The count of the warp yam is 1-50 and this count of yam would be made up in mills of the sec- ond division, as given in a previous ar- ticle. This equipment should include combers, as this yarn in most grades of the cloth under description is combed. The cotton is mixed in the usual method, which has been de- scribed several times. It is OF GREAT ADVANTAGE to use a bale breaker for this class of yams. The cotton is put through three processes of picking, the breaker picker being combined with an open- er. The breaker picker is provided with a three-bladed beater, the speed of which is 1,200 revolutions per min- ute. The lap at the front weighs 39 pounds Lo the lap or 10 ounces to the yard. These are doubled 4 into 1 at the intermediate picker. .T^his picker has a pin beater, the speed of which is 1,300 revolutions per minute, the fan speed being reduced on account of the extra draft caused by the pin beat- er. The total WEIGHT OF LAP at the front end of this picker is 37 pounds or a 12-ounce lap. These laps are put up at the finisher picker and doubled 4 into 1. At this point the cut roving waste is also mixed in in the proportion of 1 lap cut waste to 3 laps raw stock. This picker is gen- erally provided with a two-bladed beater, the speed of which is 1,400 rev- olutions per minute. Keep the beater blades sharp and properly adjusted. This speed of the beater gives the cot- ton passing through the picker about 40 beats or blows to the inch. The to- tal weight of lap at front is 35 pounds or a 121/^-ounce lap. The lap for this class of work is allowjed half a pound variation either side of stand- ard weight; if more than this, it should be run over again because, if put up at the card, it would have a tendency to make uneven work. AT THE CARD the following particulars should be observed: Draft of card not less than 110: wire fillet for cylinder, 120s; for doffer and top flats, 130s. Use large doffeT. Strip three times a day. Grind all fillet once a month, leaving grinding rolls on all day. Grinding twice a month is better, leaving grinding rolls on half a day. The speed of the licker-in is 300 revolu- tions per minute; flats, 1 revolution in 35 minutes. The weight of the sliver at the front should be about 50 grains per yard; production, 550 pounds per week of 60 hours. This sliver is tak- en to sliver lap machines^ and doubled 14 intoJL for ss^-inch lap or 20 into 1 for 10%-inch lap. The •• SPREAD OF ROLLS, for this stock (peeler li/^inch staple) should be as follows: Front to mid- dle, 1% inches; middle to back, 1% inches. The weight per yard of lap at the front is 300 grains for 8%-inch lap or 350 grains for a 10%-inch lap. These laps are put up at the ribbon lap machine and doubled 6 into 1. The weight per yard of lap at the front Is 265 grains for 8%-inch lap or 315 grains for lOi/^-inch lap. This gives a draft of about 7 for this machine. These laps are put up at the comber and doubled either 6 or 8 into 1, ac' J80 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. ■carciing lo the number OL Heads on tJie coujuer. it 6 heads, the lays should be iuy2 inches wide and set as follows: Cua-mon plate to half lap, 18 gauge; top combs to segment, 20 gauge. Feed at oy2, top comb set to 29 degrees an- Sle; a double row of needles is used on top comb; 18 per cent waste should be taken out. THE SPEED should be 100 nips per minute; dra;ft about 40; weight of sliver, 50 grams Ijer yard. The speed of rolls in draw box should be as follows: Front to middle, i% inches; middle to back, 1% Inches. This sliv- er is put up at the drawing frames and doubled 6 into 1 and put through two processes, the speed of front roll at each process being 380 revolutions per minute, the spread of the rolls be- ing as follows: Front to second, 1% inches; second to third, 1% inches; third to back, 1% inches. Use leather top rolls on this class of drawing and keep them well varnished and in per- fect condition. The weight of sliver at the front of the finisher drawing is 65 grains per yard. This is put up at the slubber and made into .50 hank roving. AT THE SLUBBER the front rolls for this class of goods are sometimes varnished, but this is not often done, they being varnished when running on Sea Island stock. The slubber roving is put through three processes of fly frames, the hank roving at each process being as follows: First intermediate, 1.50; second intermediate, 3.50, and jack, 10 hank. Look out for the traverse motion and do not lay roving too close to make triangular roving. This rov- ing is then spun into 50s yarn on a ring spinning warp frame with a 2%- inch gauge of frame, li/^-inch diameter ring and a 6-inch traverse. The speed of the spindles is 10,000 revolu- tions per minute, the twist per inch, 31.81. This yarn is next put through a spooler, then a warper and from here to a slasher. A good-sized mix- ture for this class of goods is as fol- lows: Water, 100 gallons; potato starch, 54 poimds; Yorkshire gum, 2 pounds; white soap, li/^ pounds. water to 120 degrees F. Rim the goods for 20 minutes; heat to 200 de- grees F. Run for 30 minutes. If wool is not dark enough, boil for some min- utes more; when wool is only a shade too light, turn off steam and run for oO minutes or till the cotton is col- ored to shade. If the goods are boiled too long the wool will be too dark and the cotton thin. UNION BLACK. 5 per cent union black B F; 25 per cent Glauber's salt; 5 per cent salt. Dyeing Particulars. This cloth is dyed with union colors, the wool and cotton being dyed in the same bath. The goods are entered into the dye kettle; after the color has been boiled up with from 20 to 30 per cent of Glauber's salt, cool off with LIGHT BROWN. iy2 per cent diamine fast yellow B; yo per cent diamine orange B; % per cent diamine brown M; 6 ounces un- ion black B F; 30 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent salt. NAVY BLUE. 3 per cent diamine black B H; 1 per cent union black B F; 4 per cent naphthoi blue black; % per cent for- myl violet S 4 B; 30 per cent Glau- ber's; 5 per cent salt. RED. 5 per cent benzo fast red S 4 B; 30 per cent Glauber's; 5 per cent salt. LIGHT TAN. 100 pounds goods: 1 ounce tetra^ zo orange G; % ounce union tetrazo black B; i/4 ounce tetrazo Bordeaux G; % ounce tetrazo brown R; 20 per cent Glauber's salt. SLATE. 1 per cent diamine black BH; ^4 per cent diamine fast yellow B; 20 per cent Glauber's. PURPLE. 2 per cent diamine violet N; % per cent union black; 1 per cent formyl violet S 4 B; 30 per cent Glauber's. SCARLET. 3 per cent diamine scarlet B; 30 per cent Glauber's salt; .5 per cent salt. PEA GREEN. Yz per cent diamme green B; 1 ounce diamine sky blue; 30 per cent Glauber's. ROYAL BLUE. 3% per cent diamine brilliant blue G; Yz per cent diamine violet S 4 B; 30 per cent Glauber's; 5 per cent salt. DARK GREEN. 2Y2 per cent diamine black H W; 2 per cent diamine green B; 30 per ceat Glauber's; 5 per cent salt. RUBY. 3 per cent diamine fast red F; 1^ per cent diamine Bordeaux B; 30 per cent Glauber's; 5 per cent salt. j^rj^M^.*-^^^^*^' A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 181 CAMBRIC. Ootton cambric is a fabric woven with a plain weave, the distinguishing effect being a heavily glazed, smooth surface. The glossy effect is obtained in the finishing process. The goods are somewhat lighter in weight than French percale. When finished white or in solid col- ors they are used very extensively FOR LINING PURPOSES. The name cambric, like many other names of dry goods, does not signify any special construction or quality of fabric, being made in both linen aud cotton materials. The name is said to have been origi- nally given to a very fine, thin linen fabric made at Chambrey, or Cam- brai, in the department of Nord, French Flanders. Cambric is known in France as ba- tiste, so called, it is said, from its in- ventor, a linen weaver named Baptiste, of Chan^brey. One authority states that French canibric is the finest linen fabric made . " Cotton imitations of the original cambric are of the muslin type and are sometimes termed cambric-muslin. The finer grades of cotton cambrics are made from hard twisted cotton yarns, and are of good quality. LOOM REQUIRED. Any of the light, single-box, fast- running looms are suitable for weav- ing cambrics, the goods being woven white, then bleached or piece-dyed as required. The finest grades, where mispicks tend to make second quality goods, are woven on the regular looms. De- vices have been invented and tested which change the filling before it is entirely spent, but they have not been successful on fine filling because, com- ing in contact with the filling every second pick, in practically the same spot, they wear it out before it can be run off the shuttle. Little attention is paid to mispicks when weaving the lower qualities of goods, and these can be made most economically on the automatic looms. ANALYSIS. An analysis of a black cambric of only fair quality shows the following data: Finished width, 36 inches; fin- ished weight, 4 yards per pound; ends per inch, finished, 70; picks per inch, finished, 54. The average number of the yams in the finished sample is 24, but on ac- count of the starch, clay, or other fill- ing substance used in the finishing process, the gray yarns would be finer than 24. To obtain the fabric just mentioned, the following might be adopted, both as to construction and finish: Width of warp in reed, 38% inches. Warp yarns, 26s cotton. Pilling yarns, 28s cotton. Eight double ends on each side for s/elvedges. Total ends. 2,536. Seventy sley reed, 2 ends per dent. Fifty-six picks per inch. Weight, 4.3 yards per pound from loom. The finished and unfinished weights do not bear a direct proportion to the average counts of yarns in each case on account of the increase in length of the cloth during the proc'ess of finish- ing. FINISHING. After dyeing, open the goods out to the full width and run through a man- gle containing the filling substance; then dry. After drying, dampen in a damping machine and run through a calender. For a fine white cambric the goods would be bleached, opened out to the full width, run through a starch man^ gle, containing a light starch or fill- ing substance, the starch being blued to give the shade required, dried, dampened and run through a 5-bowl calender twice, the same side of the cloth being presented to the surface of the brass or steel roll each time. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yarns of which cambric is made are spun in mills having the equip- ment of the first and second division of mills as given in a previous article. Cambric is made ia mills or sets of mills where only this grade of cloth or perhaps two or three other styles of cloth of the same grade of fabric axe made and after the proper gears hank roving are once found they are never changed. In fact, a machine or set of machines may run on this grade of goods its whole lifetime, the only changes made being in case of a break- down, or parts and gears becoming worn out. Cambric is made from American cotton, the length of the staple used being from % to 1^/4 inches. For this article we will coasider the staple to be 1% linches in length and the count of the yarn to be as follows: 26s for warp and 28s for filling. THE MIXING is generally done by hand, and the 182 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. mixings are always as large as possi- ble. In some mills two large mixings are made so that one can be drying out while the other is being used. Better results are obtained by the latter method. The good sliver waste from machines up to the slubber, as well as the cut roving, is mixed in at the mixing bin. The cotton is then put through an opener and either two or three processes of picking, three processes being the general method. The opener is either directly connected with the breaker picker or is connect- ed by trunking; if by trunking, keep it clear, so as not to cause fire. The SPEED OP THE BEATER, which is of either a two or three bladed rigid type, is 1,500 revolutions per minute for the two-bladed, or 1,000 revolutions per minute for the three- bladed type. The total weight of the lap at the front of breaker picker is 40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap. These are doubled four into one at the in- termediate picker. The speed of this beater, which is generally of a rigid, two-bladed type, is 1,450 revolutions per minute, the total weight of lap at the front being 38 pounds or a 12-ounce lap. These laps are put up at the fin- isher picker and doubled four into one. This picker is equipped with a two- bladed rigid style of beater, and makes 1.450 revolutions per minute, which gives the cotton passing through about 42 blows or beats per inch, the total weight of lap at front being 39 pounds or a 1414 -ounce lap. Tlie cot- ton is next put up at the card. THE CARDS on which cambric was formerly made are to some extent now used and are known as the top flat card. These are fast going out of date, so that the particulars given below refer to the so- called English card. The draft for this card, for these goods, should not exceed 90. The wire fillet used should be 100s for cylinder and 110s for dof- fer and top flats. The speed of the cylinder should be 160 revolutions per minute; licker-in, 400 revolutions per minute, and top flats should make one complete revolution in 50 minutes. Grind once a month. Strip three times a day and if running an extra heavy production, strip once more. Set top flats to cylinder to a 12-lOOOths gauge and doffer to cylinder to a 7-lOOOths gauge. Use large doffer. The WEIGHT OF SLIVER at the front of the card should be 65 grains per yard and the production about 750 pounds for a week of 60 hours. The card sliver is next put tlirough either two or three processes of drawing, generally three. The doublings are generally six into one. The speed of the front roll is 400 rev- olutions per minute. On this class of goods some overseers prefer the me- tallic top rolls. In calculating the pro- duction of a drawing frame with me- tallic top rolls, it is the general rule to allow one-third more than that fig- ured for leather rolls. It is found, however, that this is too great, and if the allowaace is cut down to i/4 or 25 per cent, it will be found about right. Keep metallic rolls clean and well oiled. In figuring DRAFT OP FRAME with metallic top rolls, add 7 per cent when draft does not exceed 3.75, and & per cent when draft is between 4.60 to 7. If leather top rolls are used, care should be taken to see that they are properly oiled and free from flutes; they should be level, without breaks in leather, and the leather cot should be tight and last should be varnished frequently. A good recipe for a cooked varnish is given below: One quart vinegar, seven ounces glue, two teaspoons gum tragacanth, borax, size of walnut, one teaspoon brown sugar. Cook about an hour. Thicken with lampblack and Princess metallic. One that does not need cooking is as fol- lows: Three ounces glue,one ounce ace- tic acid, one-half teaspoon brown sugar, one-half teaspoon oil origanum. Dis- solve and add color; add one-half tea- spoon of borax in hot weather. The bottom steel rolls should be set as follows: Front roll to second, 1^/4 inches; second to third, 1% inches; third roll to back, 1% inches. The weight of sliver at the front of the flnisher drawing should be 70 grains per yard. This is put through the slubber and made into .40 hank roving. The SLUBBER ROVING is put through two processes of fly frames, the hank roving at each being as follows: First intermediate, 1.75,and second intermediate, 5; the setting of the bottom steel rolls at each process being 1 3-16 inches from front to mid- dle and 1% inches from middle to back. The roving is taken to the ring spin- ning room and spun into 26s yarn on a warp frame having the following par- ticulars: Gauge of frame. 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; twist per inch, 24.22; length of traverse, 6%; revolutions per minute of spindles, 9,- 200. The yarn is next spooled and then warped, after which it is put through a slasher. On this class of A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 183 goods a heavy sizing is used. The roving is spun into 2Ss yarn on a fill- ing irame with a 2%-inch gauge of frame; 1%-inch diameter ring; 6- inch traverse; 17.20 twist per inch; revolutions per minute of spindle, 7,- 300. This yarn is then taken to the stream chest or put through some other process which prepares it for weaving. Dyeing Particulars. Cambrics are dyed in the jig ma- chine or the continuous machine. The fancy colors are dyed on the jig. After dyeing, the pieces are starched with a light starch and calendered through a heavy calender. BLACKS. One dip salt black, 6 per cent oxy- diamine black SAT; 30 per cent Glau- ber's; 3 per cent sal soda. SULPHUR BLACK. Ten per cent immedial black N N; 10 per cent sodium sulphide; 5 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent Glauber's. BOTTLE GREEN. Ten per cent thionol dark green.; 2 per cent thionol yellow; 15 per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per ce.it common salt. PEA GREEN. Two per cent immedial green B B; 2 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt. NAVY BLUE. Three per cent direct indigo blue B E M; 15 per cent salt; 2^/^ per cent frankhansine. DARK SLATE. One per cent Pluto black S S; 40 per cent Glauber's salt; 2 per cent soda ash. BROWN. Three per cent tetranil brown O; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent soda ash. LIGHT BROWN. One-half per cent tetrazo yellow M; 1 per cent tetranil brown O; 30 percent Glauber's; 3 per cent soda ash. OLD GOLD. Three per cent diamine fast yellow B; y2 per cent diamine bronze G; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent soda ash. SLATE. Two per cent diamine black B H; 2 ou.Tces diamine yellow B; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent soda ash. MAROON. Ten per cent immedial maroon B; 10 per cent sulphide soda; 5 per cent soda ash: 85 per cent salt. GREEN. Ten per cent immedial green G G; 10 per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda ash; 35 per cent salt. BLUE. Ten per cent immedial new blue G; 20 per cent sulphide sodium; 5 per cent soda ash; 40 per cent salt. ECRU. Three per cent immedial cutch G; 4 per cent sulphide soda; 3 per cent soda a.sh; 20 per cent salt. SCARLET. Five per cent diamine scarlet B; 30 per cent salt. WINE. Four per cent benzo fast scarlet 8 B S; 1 per cent benzo fast violet R; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. PINK. One-half per cent Erika pink; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. SKY BLUE. One per cent diamine sky blue F P; 25 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. HELIOTROPE. One per cent diamine violet N; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent soda. TIRE FABRICS. Tire fabrics are, as the name implies, used for automobile, bicycle and other vehicle tires. They are not actually tires them- selves, but form the base or founda- tion of some kinds of composition and pneumatic rubber tires. Like other terms denoting the use to which the fabric is to be subjected, as quiltings, bedspreads, shirtings, etc., the term tire fabrics covers a wide range of weights and qualities. The stock used in the warps for these goods is of good quality.although the si;:gle yarns used are not of very high counts. The weights vary considerably.rang- ing from about three to 20 ounces per square yard. In one type of goods this excessive variation is due almost ex- clusively to the ply warp yarns, which vary from 2 to 12 ply, from single yarns varying from about 8s to 40s, according to the weight required. Thia 184 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. type of tire fabric is termed thread fabric. ANALYSIS. The analyses of two tire (thread) fabrics of widely varying weights show the following data: Sample No. 1. Warp ends per inch in reed,, 16. Reed, 16; one end in each dent. Warp yarn, 11-ply 9s cotton. Filling: One pick per inch of sin- gle 40s cotton. Finished weight per square yard, 13.5 ounces. The weave is plain. The drawing is in straight order. One peculiarity of this class of tire fabrics, which will be noticed from the preceding data, is that the filling is used merely to keep the warp yarns in position, not being needed to give strength to the cloth. Sample No. 2. Warp ends per inch in reed, 68. Reed, 17; 4 ends in each dent. Warp yarn, 2-ply 24s cotton. Filling: One pick of 40s filling ev- ery three-quarters of an inch. Finished weight per square yard, 3.9 ounces. The ends in Sample No. 2 were drawn 2 as 1 through each heddle eye, in straight order, two picks complet- ing the weave as in an ordinary plain cloth. For a better quality of fabric with the same construction the yarns would have been drawn in straight order, reeded two ends in each dent, as Fig. shown by the vertical lines in Fig. 1, and actuated as indicated by chain draft Fig. 2. Fig. 2. By this arrangement the ends work- ing together would have been split or separated with the reed and prevented from rolling over each other. If woven on a cam loom working four harnesses, the drawing in and reeding would be as indicated in Fig. 1 Fig. 3. 3, and the lifting of the harnesses as indicated in Fig. 4. Fig. 4. Reed ends at lines in Fig. 3, two ends in each dent. LOOM REQUIRED. Tire fabrics may be woven on ordi- nary one-shuttle cam or dobby looms, there being but one warp and one fill- ing, provided provision is made for the proper regulation of the let-off and take-up motions. On the heavy grades of goods, it is advisable to fold the woven fabric as it is made, instead of running it on a cloth roller, on account of the large yardage produced in a short time. The two samples analyzed were wov- en on a heavy loom running about 90 picks per minute. Carding and Spinning Particulars. In a previous article the >:otton n:ills were divided into three divisions, each division having a different equipment of machinery. The yarns that make tire fabrics do not come under the head of any of these divisions,but may be classed among those having a spe- cial equipment. This is on account of the extra length of staple used, which is very rarely less than 1% inches, and from this up to the long- est staple grown, 2i/i inches. The stock is. of course. Sea Island. It will therefore be readily understood that the machines in use in the other divi- sions of mills, having drawings rolls, such as drawing frames, slubbers, fly frames, etc., could not spread the bot- tom steel rolls the required distance, so as not to break the staple. In or- der to do this, specially constructed frames have to be obtained, which al- low this spread of rolls. ANOTHER POINT is that the one main object sought is strength and this is the chief reason why long staple is used, the counts of yarn being extremely low for the length of the stock, i. e., 2-24s warp and 40s filling, so that the additional points that should be looked out for, besides those that will be given below, are to see that the top clearers cover all the top rolls, that the spread of the rolls is enough so that the staple will not be broken, and that the traverse mo- tion is in perfect shape and working properly. As it is strength that is sought, the cotton is GENERALLY COMBED to get all short staple out, but some- times the stock is only carded. When carded, the carding should be ligbt or, better still, double carding should be used. In this article we will consider A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 185 the yarn to be combed. The mixing should be done by hand, the cotton be- ing first stapled to see that it is up to standard, whica lor this article \vili be considered as two inches. The cotton, after being allowed to dry out, is put through an opener and either one or two processes of picking.generally one. If one process is used, the lattice Is marked off into sections of one yard each and an equal amount of cotton put on to each section to make the required weight lap in front. If two processes are used, the opener is combined with the breaker picker. The speed of the beater of the breaker picker should be about 850 revolutions per minute for a two-bladed rigid type. The total weight of the lap at the front should be 32 pounds oran8l^-ounce lap. These laps are doubled four into one at the finisher picker; the speed of this beat- er should be 800 revolutions per min- ute. The total weight of lap at the front should be 27 pounds or a 9-ounce lap. A variation of not over 6 ounces either side of standard should be al- lowed. All laps outside this variation should be run over. The picker laps are put up AT THE CARD. On tnis class of work the draft of the card should not be less than 140 and from this up tO' 180. The wire fillet used should be No. 120s forthecylinder and No. 130s for the doffer and top flats. The speed of the cylinder should be IfiO revolutions per minute, licker- in 200 revolutions per minute, and top flats should make one complete revolu- tion everj' 35 minutes. Cards should be stripped three times a day, al- though some overseers claim that stripping the cylinder twice and the doffer three times a day is plenty. The cards should be ground once a month or oftener if wire is dull. For this class of goods keep wire fillet as sharp as possible. Use close settings, except that of the feed plate to the licker-in, which should be set so as not to break the staple. Pull the staple at the back and front of card at least once a day to see that the length of staple is the same in both places. The weight of the sliver at the front should be from 35 to 45 grains per yard, 45 grains being a good weight. THE PRODFCTION should be about 300 pounds per week of 60 hours. Keep front of card clean, so that the short fly, etc., will not get into the good carded cotton. The cot- ton is next put through the sliver lap machine, where it is doubled 20 into 1 for a 10V2-inch lap, or 14 into 1 for an 8%-inch lap. We will consider that the lap being made is a lOi/^-inch lap used on an eight-head comber. Set the bottom steel rolls as follows: Front roll to middle, 2^/4 inches; mid- dle roll to back, 2% inches. In comb- ing this cotton the instructions given in a previous lesson may be followed with the following exceptions: The weight of the sliver lap per yard is 275 grains; at the ribbon lap 260 grains per yard. The cotton lap is next put through the comber. The SPEED OF THE COMBER for this stock should be about 85 nips per minute. The doublings are 8 into 1 (for an eight- head comber). The percentage of waste taken out is from 25 to 30. Use close settings, 18 from half lap to segment and 21 from top comb to segment. The sliver at the cam should weigli 45 grains. After the comber use three processes of drawing, the spread of the rolls being as follows: 2% inches from front to second; 2^^, inches from second to third roll; 21/2 inches from third to back roll. Look to the top leather cov- ered rolls to see that they are in per- fect shape and properly varnished. The weigfht of the sliver at the front of the finisher drawing should he GO grain.s per yard. The doublings a.t the draw- ing should be 6 into 1. At the slubber this drawing should be made into .70 hank roving. At this frame SEVERAL CHANGES are made, which are as follows: The top leather rolls are varnished, some- times all three sets, and sometimes only the front rolls. The size of the front leather roll is sometimes in- creased to 11/2 inches, or even to 2 inches in diameter. This is to help prevent the roving "licking up"; when this is done, top clearers simi- lar to those used on mules are used. The slubber roving is put through two processes of fly frames and made into the following hank roving: 2.25 at the first intermediate and 5 at the second' for the 40s cotton, and for the 24s cotton the hank roving at each frame is as follows: 2.25 at the first and 8 at the second intermediate. The spread of the rolls should be as follows: Front to middle, 2 inches; middle to back, 2% inches. It should be understood that when giving the spread of the rolls, the distance is from centre to centre. The warp yarn is then spun into 24s on a warp frame having a 2-inch diameter ring and a 7-inch traverse. Some overseers give a little more than standard twist to this yarn. The yarn is then put through the spooler and from here to 186 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. the twister where it is made into 2- ply yarn. Prom here it is put through the warper and the slasher. The fill ing yarns may be either mule or ring spun; if spun on a ring frame for 40s yarn, use a 1%-inch ring and 5i/^-inch traverse. This yarn is then conditioii- ed when it is ready to weave. PLAIN and PLAIDED NAINSOOK Nainsook is a light cotton fabric, utilized for numerous purposes.such as infants' clothes, women's dress goods, lingerie,half curtains for dining rooms, bathrooms and for various other pur- poses. The striped or plaided nainsook is used for the same purposes as the plain fabric, depending upon the tastes of the consumer. Where the fabric is required for lingerie and in- fants' wear, the English finished fab- ric is selected because of its softness. When intended for curtains or dress fabrics the French finished fabric is chosen; the latter finish consists of slightly sitiffendng and calendering the fabric. * The name nainsook is derived from the Hindoo Nainsukh and was orgi- nally defined as a stout India muslin, manufactured in India. The fabric as manufactured to-day /may t)e distinguished from fine lawns, fine grades of batiste and fine cam- brics from the fact that it has not as firm construction, or as much body, and the finished fabric is not as smooth nor as stiff, bu: inclines to softness, principally because it has not the body to retain the finishing materials used in finishing the fabric; consequently it must needs be a cheaper article than the fabrics above mentioned. Nainsook, like most cot- ton fabrics, is made in several grades, the different grades being affected by the counts of yarns used, which in turn influence the ends and picks per inch in the construction. ANALYSIS. Width of warp in reed, 30^^ inches; width of fabric finished, 28 4 inches; ends per inch in reed, 82, reeded 2 in 1 dent; ends per inch finished, 86, ends in body, 2,460, plus 40 ends selvedge, equals 2,500, total ends in warp; take- up during weaving, 5 per cent; weight of fabric, 11/2 ounces per yard; warp yam, l-50s cotton: filling yarn, l-64s cotton; 66 picks per inch in loom; 68 picks per inch finished. Fig. 1, de- sign; fig. 2, chain draft; fig. 3, draw- ing-in draft. LOOM REQUIRED. Nainsook, like various other one- filling fabrics of the character under discussion, may be woven on any light, single box, high speed loom. Plaided nainsook seerhs to imply QaBBaaDBoaDBDaDa aaaDBsanaDBDaDaa aaDaaaaaaaaBDaaa Ti:jaDa anaa Dl ■DaaauaDani aaaaaavjaDaGBcaa aaziiiaBZiaDauBGBDB BGaaaDSGaaaaaaan DaaaaaGaGaaQDaaa aaaGaaaGBDaDDGaa aaGaGaGGDDnBDDDn BnaaaGanDcacDDDa DaaBBBGa GGpaCCGQ BBBGaaaGGCDCBCGG BBGajBGa ' MGDLBGB BGBBa M B U UGCG DaaaaBGB b~b:.bcb BflBGa ggGGBaGGGGGG I gGGGGBGGGGGG -' griGGGGBGOGGG gGGGGGGBGGDG „ gGGGgaaGBaGG •a gggGGGGGGBGa 2 gggGgnGGGGBG Q GGaaGGGGGGGB ^ BGGaaaGGGGDG 1 gaGGGGOGaDGG gaBaGGGGGGGGoo -. nGGBGGGGGGGG* ( ggggBGaoGGGG ]■ With stop Fif Fi£ gGGGGBGGGGGG gnGGGGBGGGGG gag^ga GBGGGG gagGGGGGBGGG gaGGGGGGGBGa gggagGGGGGBG □GGGGaGGGGGB bogggd noGGGa nBGagnGGGGGa aaBagaGGGGGa GGGBGa GGGDn nGGGBaGGGana DGGGGBaGQGGG GaaaaaBGnGGG DaGaGDGBanaa GGGGGiinQanaa aGGGGDGGQBGG GGGDGGGaaGBG GGGGGGGGGGGB BGGgGGGGGGOD GBGaGaGGGGGn nGBGGaGaaGGG aGGBaaDGGGGa nGGGBaGaaaGD GGGGGBaaaGGa □GGGGGBaGaaa aaaaacaBaaaa DGGGGaaaBaGG uaanGnanaBGD DGDaaaaGaaBG nGGaGnGGGGGB BaGaaaDJGQGG GBGGG^noaaGG 1 nGBnGGGnnaQG I s GCGBGUGGGGGQ- '> 3 DGGnBaaGGGGG- i - DGGGGBaaaGGa J ■= 2 ends bleach. 4 ends black. 12 ends green, end 12. 30 ends scarlet. 4 — 6 ends blue. 6 ends bleach. 4 — 6 ends blue. 6 ends bleach. 4 — 6 ends blue. 198 14 ends extra yarn for stripe. 184 3 required chain draft. 4 drawing-in draft. 190 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. Einds In waxp. Snds In pattern. 708 bleach 64 2-40 cotton. 660 Bcarlet 60 2-40 cotton. 288 green 24 2-40 cotton. 396 blue 36 2-40 mercerized cotton. 72 scarlet 6 2-40 mercerized cotton. 144 black 8 2-40 mercerized cotton. 2,268 198 ends In 1 pattern. 2,268 total ends in warp. The pattern shows that we have 198 ends and picks taking up the space required for 184, or 14 ends and picks of extra yarn in each pattern require average piclcs per inch in fabric: 54 pick wheel— 198 in place of 184; 184 : 198 : : 54 : X equals 58 picks. To calculate filling material re ! % ; 1 *^ t 1 c^< '£ • t >:< , ' :^< ^. ' ^ ,■*■, ; A f 1 A 1 > ff< '4- < I •.4,- » ;f, 1 1 *' ; 1 >'^ * ^ ;« ground warp and the douping warp or warp that crosses over the ground warp and forms the ornamental fea- ture that characterizes the fabric. Leno fabrics are woven upon a sys- tem quite apart from ordinary or plain weaving. THE DIFFERENCE lies chiefly in the fact that two sets of harnesses are required to operate the warp, the ground harness and the doup harness set. The ground harness is the same as in ordinary weaving; the doup har- ness set consists of two harness frames, if .string doup is used, known as the A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 201 standard and skeleto i harness. When wire doupi.ig heddles are used, it re- quires three harness frames. We will for convenience deal with the string doup; this douping heddle is but a half heddle, so to speak. This half heddle is usually fastened at the bot- Flg. 1. torn of the skeleton harness frame and connected with the stand and harness heddle by passing through the upper opening of the standard hed- dle, then through the eye of the stand- ard heddle, then fastened at the bot- tom of the skeleto 1 harness frame. side of the ground warp threads, ihac is, it will cross under the gjounu threads; if, however, only the doup heddles are raised, the douping thread will remain in its noa-'Uial position; that is, it will not cross under the ground threads. We must, however, bear in mind that in no case can the standard heddle be raised without also raising the doup heddle; whea the standard and doup are raised together, we must also slacken or ease up on the doup warp threads in order 'to allow them to cross under the ground warp threads. This is done by means of a ■DoaaDDD DaaaaoBD DDDaDBDa ■■■DDaaci DDDBBDDa □aaQBDDa DOBOOBGa anaBBDoa BBBOBOaE: DDDBOBDa □□BaDBDD Fij slackener or easing rod. This rod is similiar to what is known as the whip roller in ordinary weaving. The doup threads pass under this rod into the eye of the doup; this rod is so ar- ranged that it will let up or relieve all tension from doup threads by moving toward the loom. When doup threads are required to cross under ground warp threads the easing up of the doup threads must be indicated on chain draft. (See Fig. 5.) Fig. 3 shows drawing-i:i plan. Fig. 4 reeding plan. All leno fabrics have (See Fig. 1.) The secret of leno weaving will be readily understood if it is borne in mind that it consists of but two movements of the standard and douping heddles; these two move- men'ts are that if the standard and doup heddles are raised at the same time, the douping thread will be on one special reeding plans; the reed is sometimes plucked, that is, a wire tak- en out of reed, so ivS not to overcrowd the threads. This is usually done when doup threads cross under six or more ground threads; the doup threaxl must be in same dent with the ground threads under which it crosses. 202 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. ANALYSIS. 1,400 reed special denting; 70 picks per inch; 38 inches in reed. Finished 36 inches. WARP. 9 white. 2 medium blue. 6 white. 2 medium blue. 9 white. 2 darl£ blue. 1 white — 2-ply. 2 darli blue. 1 white — 2-ply. 2 dark blue. 36 As the warp lay out is on S6 ends the cloth con- tains two repeats of the same to one repeat of the weave. Draw the 2-ply yarn from the top beam. FILLING. ■JO white l-.'i(K. Pins. 659 Black 233 Dark blue 56 Black Ends. 48 1-40S. 20 1-40S. 4 2-40S. h4SPii]«.i i-luiliiigselvedj;i'>.. Si'h t'df;es-J-40s Diack. Take-up during weaving ground warp 10 per cent. Take-up during weaving doup warp 65 per cent. LOOM REQUIRED. These fabrics are usually woven on a dobby loom, the speed of which is from 120 to 130 picks per minute; a higher speeded loom usually causes consideirable trouble with the doup warp. The loom must necessarily carry two warp beams, ground warp a^d doup warp beams. Great care should be given to the setting of the harness- es as they should be perfectly even and form a perfect ched when in op- eration. FINISHING. These fabrics are principally used for shirts and shirtwaistings. This re- quires that tlie i>at terns be not too large and that the warp stripe be more prominent than the filling stripe wihen fabric is made with filling stripe; leno fabrics are principally yarn dyed fabrics. After the fabric leaves the loom it is boiled off, then given a light sizing, preissed, then made up into rolls, after which it is ready for the merchant. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Leno fabrics, like all fabrics having a trade name covering a certain class of goods, are made up of various counts of yam and of course the meth- ods used in making the different counts va^ry as to the processes used, also the kind and staple of cotton and the speed and setting of the different parts of the machines. A great many times changing the speed or setting of one part of a machine may improve the unevenness of the yarn or roving, or, if made at the picker, stop licking, so that it is very bard or almost im- possible to give a hard and fast rule of speed or settings for the machines that will cover the whole of leno fabrics. The particulars which are given may be taken AS A FOUNDATION fro>m which to work and a little vari- ation one way or the other only will be needed. For an example of leno yarns, we will consider the fabric to be made up of l-40s and 2-40s warp and l-50s filling yams. For these counts of yarn the equipment of the second division of mills will be needed. The cotton generally used is Allen seed or peeler (American cotton) of 1%-inch staple. Some mills comb both warp and filling yarns, while oth- er mills comb only the filling yarns. In this article we will consider that only the filling yarn is to be combed, although, if both are co-mbed, the par- ticulars given below may be used. The mixing is made as has been previous- ly described, it being pointed out that the use of a bale breaker in connection with a blower will help the cotton to a great extent. An opener and TWO PROCESSES OF PICKING are used. The sliver waste from all the machines up to the slubber is mix- ed in at the bins. At the opener use the particulars that have been given ill previous articles. The breaker pick- er has a two-bladed rigid type of beat- er, and the speed of the beater is 1,450 revolutions per minute. Care should be taken to clean all seeds, etc., from under the bars at regular and frequent intervals. The total weight of the lap at the front of this picker is 38 pounds, or a 13-ounce lap. These laps are put up at the finisher picker and doubled 4 into 1. The speed of tlie beater of this machine is 1,450 revolu- tions per minute; the fan speed being 1,100 revolutions per minute; the driving sihaft of the picker making 375 revolutions per minute. Cut roving waste is mixed in at the finisher pick- er in the proportion of 1 lap cut waste to 3 laps raw stock, the cut roving having been treated as described in previous articles. The total weight of the lap at the front end of the finisher picker should be 35 pounds or a 12^- ounce lap. The laps are put up AT THE CARD, the draft of wihich should not be less A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 203 'than 100. The wire fillet generally used for this class of goods is 34s on cylinder and 35s on doffer and top fiats. Set feed plate from lick- •er-in with 20-l,000ths of an inch gauge; lickeT knives from licker-in 12-l,000ths of an inch; cylinder under screen from cylinder 22-l,00Oths inch in centre and one-quarter of an inch at each end of screen; top fiats from cylinder, with a 12-l,000'th3 inch gauge, licker-in from cylinder with a 1-1, 000th of an inch gauge, doffer from cylinder with 7-l,00Oths of an inch gauge. Always set to high places. Set the back edge of the back plate knife 17-l,000ths of an inch from the cylinder. The front plate knife has its upper edge adjustable in order that the amount of stripping to be taken from the fiats may be regulated. Setting this plate closer to cylinder MAKES LIGHTER STRIPPING, and the farther away it is set, the heavier stripping it produces. The lower edge of this plate is set to a 17-l,000ths of an inch gauge. Grind and strip card as previously described. The top fiats should make one com- plete revolution every 45 minutes. The percentage of waste taken out at the card for this class of goods should be about 4% to 4%. The production for a week of GO hours is 700 pounds with a <55 grain sliver. Use a large diameter ■doffer. The sliver for the filling yarn is taken to the sliver lap machine and doubled 14 into 1 for an S%-inch lap or 20 into 1 for a 10-inch lap. The weight of the lap at the front is 300 grains. These laps are put up at the ribbon lap machine and doubled ti into 1. The weight of a lap at the front end of a ribbon lap machine is 2C0 grains per yard for an S%-inch lap. Get weight for a 10-inch lap by pro- portion. Size both ribbon and sliver lap machines once a day. THE DOUBLINGS at the comber depend on the number of heads of the machine; recent machines are generally provided with eight heads with a 10-inch lap. The speed of the comber for this class of stock is 85 nips per minute for old machines and 100 nips for those of recent construc- tion. Varnish rolls once a week, us- ing one of the recipes given in pre- vious articles; in sticky or dog-day wea.ther use a little ground charcoal and gum arable dissolved in a teaspoon- ful of vinegar. This swells to five times its bulk. Take out IS per cent waste. After passing the combers, the sliver is put through two processes of drawing, being doubled 6 into 1. The speed of the front roll at each process is 350 revolutions per minute. The weight of the sliver at the finisher drawing is 70 grains per yard. The card sliver for the warp yarn is put through three processes of drawing, the speed of the front roll being 380 revolutions per minute. The weight of this sliver is also 70 grains per yard. The sliver is next put up at the slubber and made into .55 hank roving. From here it is put through three processes of FLY FRAMES, the hank roving at each process being as follows: First intermediate, 1.50; second, 4, and jack, 12. Keep your leather rolls in good condition and see that all parts of machine are well oiled and that top and boittom rolls are prop- erly set. which for this length of sta- ple should be for fly frames as follows: Front roll to middle, 1% inches; mid- dle roll to back, 1% inches. From nere the roving is taken to the spinning room, although some prefer mule spun yarn. There is a great difference in the opinion of mill men as to the advantages and disadvantages of both systems, one mill building with no mules and another including them in its equipment. We will consider both yarns to be FRAME SPUN. For a warp frame spinning 40s use a frame having a 2%-inoh gauge, 1%- inch diameter ring, 6i/^-inch traverse, 28.46 twist per inch, 10,000 revolutions per minute of spindles. The l-40s warp yarn is spooled, warped and put through the slasher, a good mixing for which has been previously given. The 2-40s yarn is put through a twisting frame and spooled. Enoug'h spools are put up at the warper and the ends, after which run on to a specially con- structed beam. For the filling yarn 1-oOs, use a ring frame having a 2%-inch gauge, lJ?4-inch diameter ring, 5y2-inch trav- erse, 2G.52 twist and spindle speed of 8,200 revolutions per minute. This yarn is conditioned and then is ready to be woven. Dyeing Particulars for Yarn. BLACK. Ten per cent immedial black N N; 10 per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's. LIGHT BLUE. Three per cent diamine sky blue F F: 3 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. LIGHT SLATE. One per cent diamine black; B. H; 1 204 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. ounce diamine fast yellow A; 1 per ce.t sal soda; 20 per cent Glauber's. LIGHT BROWN. One-half per cent naphtamine brown 6 B; 1 per cent naphtamine yellow N N; 1 per ce.it sal soda; 30 per cent Glauber's. MEDIUM GREEN. Six per cent thion green G; 2 per cent thion yellow G; 8 per cent sul- phide sodium; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's. MEDIUM BROWN. Three per cent tetrazo dark brown; 3 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent salt. MEDIUM SLATE. One per cent tetrazo black G; 1 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent salt. WINE. Three per cent tetrazo Corinth; 1 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent salt. RED. Three per cent benzo fast red 4 B; 1 per cent sal soda; 25 per ce.it Glau- ber's. DARK GREEN. Seven per cent thion green B; 8 per cent sulphide soda; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. ECRU. One per cent thion brown G; 1 per cent sulphide soda; 2 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent Glauber's salt. FAWN BROWN. One per cent diamine fast yellow A; 2 per cent diamine brown M; ± per oent sal soda; 20 per cent salt. NAVY BLUE. Five per cent diamine dark blue B; 2 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glau- ber's salt. •* » » ■ BEDSPREADS -Crochet Quilts, Bedspreads, also termed bed quilts, coverlets and counterpanes, are, as the names imply, used as coverings for bed clothing. Being primarily decorative fabrics, most of them show elaborate jacquard designs of a type peculiar to this class of fabric, the use to which they are subjected necessitating a design of a large, bold character that is complete in itself in each quilt. Quilts are of various sizes, ranging from crib quilts. 28x03 inches, to large quilts, 92x108 inches. For metal beds the quilts are some- times cut at the four corners so they will hang better and make a neater appearance. Being a type of fabric of universal use in civilized countries, for all class- es of people, quilts are necessarily made in widely varying qualities. They are also made in varying single and compound structures of cloth, and in varying types of designs. THREE PRINCIPAL TYPES. Three of the principal types of structures are seen in quilts known as crochet, Marseilles and satin. The first is a single fabric, where all yarns used show on one side or the other. The second is a compound fabric, in which the extra yarns are generally used for the purpose of adding weight and at the same time producing an em- bossed pattern on the face. The third is a double cloth, reversi- ble, with some types of designs in which each of the single cloths alter- nate from one side of the quilt to the other, according to the pattern re- quired. These three types will be considered in the above order. It may be mentioned here that there are other names of quilts, as Toilet, Albany, Mitcheline, Duree, Grecian, Embroidery, Tapestry, Kensington, Al- hambra and Honeycomb, but. these may be included in one or other of the three principal types mentioned. CROCHET QUILTS. The term crochet quilt does not mean that said fabric is crocheted with needles, but refers to the simplest type of woven single cloth quilt made A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 20r with medium or fine counts of yarns. Honeycomb and Alhambra quilts are of ttie same class, differing principally in the type of design used. This class of quilt, for full size quilts, shows variations in size from about GSx82 inches to 80x90 inches, and in weight from about one pound 12 ounces to three pounds 9 ounces, per quilt. THE ANALYSIS of an unbleached crochet crib quilt shows the following data: Width, 31 inches; 84 ends and 72 picks per inch; 24s warp, 12s soft twisted filling. The warp contains 2,600 ends and is reed- ed three ends per dent in a 26-dent reed. The cloth will finish about 28 inches wide. By reference to Fig. 1, it may be seen that the pattern is a stripe com- posed of four sections in each repeat, as follows: First, a section of honey- comb effect, formed by weave Fig. 2, ■□■□DD amamnm ■■■OBD □■aaoB ■DBDnn OBDDDD Fig. 2. 5S5PSP5SH5G"°"°°"°"0"nB«DBnBD«nD BDBgBDBBDBnBaBDDBDBDBDBBDBnBDBOD □BDgBgBGBOBBaBDaBDBaaBDaBDaBDBaa □BaBDaqaBDBDBQBBaBaBDBDaBaaOBGBB □anaaBqaBaaaBaaBDaoaaBnoBaaDBDBB BaBBnBDnBgBBDBDaaBDDBDaDBnBBDBDa fRS2SyS5H59S°B°°"D"D»cBBGBDBnBnn DBnBDBDaBDBDBnBBDBnBDBDnBnBDBDBB RSaBDBnnBnBnBnBBnBnBDBDDBHBnBDBB QBnDBQBBaaaDBDBDBDBBDBDBaBaaBDBa Fig. 3. on 6x6; second, a continuous floral ef- fect, filling flush weaves; third, a crepe effect, formed by weave Fig. 3 on 32x12; fourth, like the second sec- tion, but dropped 78 picks, one-half the number in each repeat. There are a little more than 12 re- peats in the entire width. The sel- vedges are each one-half inch wide, reeded the same as the ground, and show an angled twill weave effect. The length of the pattern filling way is 2 3-16ths inches and requires 156 picks for a repeat. As there are 200 ends in a repeat of the design, a 400-hook jacquard might be used, each pick of the pattern be- ing read twice on each card. THE LOOM REQUIRED for this type of fabric is of medium weight. The pattern being small, a small jacquard head of the ordinary rise and drop type, or, if the weave is not required to be changed to form* the headings of the quilt, a double ac- tion head may be used. For the sample shown, if required to have headings at both ends to com- plete the quilt, differing in weave from the ground, what is termed a double or single acting automatic aux- iliary cylinder jacquard would be the most economical to use. If the ground weave was required to be repeated 25 times between head- ings, an ordinary jacquard attachment would require 25x156 picks in repeat, equalling 3,900 cards for the ground, whereas with the auxiliary cylinder machine 156 cards only would be re- quired for this same section. For larger patterns, the capacity of the jacquard would be required to cor- respond, i. e., with more than 400 ends in a repeat. FINISHING. The goods are generally woven white from unbleached yarn, and are bleached and finished after they leave the loom. A quilt will shrink in width about 10 per cent from the gray to the finished state, and increase about 1 per cent in length. After bleaching, starching and blu- ing, they are cut, hemmed or fringed as desired, inspected, rolled or folded, tagged and papered. It is not advisable to leave finished quilts unpapered for any length of time if in the same building as the bleach house, because the fumes from the bleaching liquors take out the blu- ing in a short time. If this is done after the quilt is folded, the bluing is taken from the outer layers only, and uneven, poor-looking quilts result. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yarns of which bedspreads are composed are made in mills of the second division. There is one feature about the filling yarn which is not comiXnon to all fabrics, and that is, it is what is called soft twisted. The counts of yarn which make up the fabric to be described in this article are 24s warp and 12s filling. THE WARP YARN is made from 1%-inch staple Ameri- can cotton, while the filling yarn is made from a good grade of 1-inch sta- ple American stock. The mixing is done in the usual manner, which has been described many limes before, separate bins being used for the two staples. The good sliver waste from all machines up to the slubber is mix- ed in at the bins. This sliver should be spread over the entire mixture and not bunched in one place; it should also be broken into short lengths so 206 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. that it will not be so apt to become tangled around the spikes of the hop- per. This hopper should be kept full so as to feed an even amount of cot- ton to be struck off by the pin roller at the top of the lifting apron. The raw stock for both warp and filling yams is put through three proc- esses of picking, the breaker picker being generally connected directly to the opener. Many different kinds of BEATERS are used by different mills, each claim- ing certain advantages over the other, but the style of beater in most generaJ use throughout the mills is what is known as the two-bladed or armed rigid type of beater, although many mills use a three-bladed beater of the same style for the breaker picker. To sharpen the edge of this beater its side is planed. The speed of the beater used for the same stock and weight lap va- ries greatly in different mills and the speeds given below are the ones used in a mill making this class of goods. For the breaker picker the speed of the beater (two bladed) is 1,500 revo- lutions per minute, for the interme- diate, 1,450 revolutions per minute, and for the finisher 1,350 revolutions per minute. The total weight of THE LAP at the breaker is 40 pounds or a 16- ounoe lap, at the intermediate 37 pounds, or a 10-ounce lap, and at the finisher 39 pounds or a 14%-ounce lap. At the intermediate and finisher pick- ers the laps are doubled four into one. The draft of the finisher picker does not exceed three. At this picker it is customary to mix in the roving waste both cut and uncut. The roving waste that has not been cut from the bobbin consists of that which is made by the speeder tenders when they are putting in new sets of roving and tak- ing off single and double. Speeder tenders should never be allowed to cut off roving; all bad work being sorted out, charged and given to them to fix. All marks should he made small and near the bobbin. The laps from the picker are next put up AT THE CARD, the draft of which for this fabric should not exceed 100. The wire fillet used should be No. 33s for cylinder and 35s for doffer and top flats. The settings of the card should he the same as giv- en for leno cotton fabrics, although some overseers use a little wider set- tings for this class of stock. The speed of the licker-in should be 375 revolu- tions per minute, cylinder 165 revolu- tions per minute, and the flats should make one complete revolution every 50 minutes. The card should be stripped, ground and cleaned. The weight per yard of the sliver at the front should be about 65 grains per yard, the pro- duction for a week of 60 hours being 750 pounds. This sliver is next put through three processes of DRAWING FRAMES, the doublings at each process being 6 into 1. For this class of goods metal- lic rolls may be used to great advan- tage. If leather top rolls are used, they should be varnished frequently and kept in good repair. See that all parts are working" properly, especially those parts which coil the sliver into the cans, because if these are not working properly, the sliver cannot be run out at the next process without a great deal of breaking back of the sliver. Imperfect coiling of the sliver is a great many times caused by the cans themselves, they being out of true or having broken parts sticking out and coming in contact with part of the machine and stopping the can from turning. The only remedy for imperfect coiling is to run it over again. The spread of the front roll of the drawing frame at each process is 375 to 400 revolutions per minute. The WEIGHT OF THE SLIVER for warp yarn is 70 grains and for the filling yam, 80 grains per yard. These slivers are put up to the slubber and made into .40 hank for the 1-inch stock and .60 hank for the 1%-inch. stock. The process of fly frames for the li^-inch stock and the hank roving made at each process are as follows: First, 2 hank, and second, 6. From here it is taken to the ring spinning room and made into 24s yarn on a frame having a 2%-inch gauge of frame, 2-inch diameter ring, a 7- inch traverse, 23.27 twist per inch and a spindle speed of 9,600 revolutions per minute. The yam is then spool- ed and put through a warper and these warps put up at the slasher, the re- quired number of ends being run on a beam at the front. The slubber roving for the filling yarn is put on the first intermediate fly frame and made into 1 and then into 2.5 hank at the next process, after which it is taken to the muTe room and sipun into 12s yam with a twist per inch of 2.75. After leaving the loom, quilts are first boiled for 10 hours with a CAUSTIC SODA SOLUTION at 4 degrees Tw., rinsed well with A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 207 water and boiled agaia with, a 4 de- gree Tw. caustic soda, 10 hours; rinsed well with water, soured with one-half degree Tw. oil vitriol, rinsed with wa- ter, chemicked with one-half degree Tw. chloride of lime solution, soured with 1 degree Tw. oil of vitriol and rinsed two or three times with water. The goods are placed in the kiers, each piece separate, and handled very care- fully throughout the whole operation. BEDSPREADS-MarseillesQDilts Marseilles quilts are characterized by large embossed effects, usually of elaborate floral or geometrical design, each pattern occupying an entire quilt. The general effect is similar to what would be fbrmed by stitching a pat- tern on a fine plain cloth, which effect is made more prominent in the better used reverses from the centre in both directions, warp way and filling way, as in Fig. 1. When designing for this type it is necessary to make only one-quarter of the figuring design, the same occupy- ing only one-sixth of the total num- ber of ends in the warp, or one-half of the stitching ends. The jacquard Figl tie-up is on the point or centre draft principle, /y , which doubles the capacity of the machine as compared to a straight tie-up, and there is an attachment on the loom by which the cards are reversed when the centre of the quilt is reached filling way. When considering the plan for the card cutter only one-half of the stitch- w W w w N ON / / / • / / / / / • / N NOV N N >3 / / / ^ / • / / / ' / • N N NO N N V / / / / / / / / / ' / / N N N V . N ON / / / / • / / / / / / • / / N N N o s • / • / o N / / w w w w N \ / / / / / / / / / / N N N \ NO / / / / / • / / / / / • N N NO N N N /•/•// / / / / • / / / / N O N N N N O N / / / / • / / / / / / • / / N N O N N / / N / / W N O N / / / • / / / / / • / / \ NO N ON N / • / / / / / • / / / / NO N N N N N / / / / / / / / / / / / V N N N N N / / / / / / / / / / / / N N N ON • / • / O N / / z s z 5 S s grades of goods by weaving a coarse plain cloth at the back and insert- ing wadding between the face and back cloths. When wadding is used the stitching points form deep furrows, which indicate the pattern. One of the principal types of designs ing ends and one-half the back picks in each quilt are considered, 1. e., when there are two face picks to one back pick. There are two types of Marseilles weaves, known as ordinary Marseilles and fast-back Marseilles. The latter 208 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. type is used for almost all but the lowest qualities of goods. Design Fig. 2 illustrates the princi- ple upon which an ordinary Marseilles weave is constructed, in which the wadding lies between the face cloth nannaB oamama DDDBDD DDaaaD amaaam BDDDDD Fig. 3. and the stitching, also termed binder, figuring, or black, ends. These ends when not required to be raised to form the pattern, remain at the back of the cloth and are not interlaced with the forcing the face cloth up. or embossinj it. When these picks are inserted, all the face ends are raised. Fig. 3 shows the motif or order of stitching in Fig 2. FAST-BACK WEAVES. A fast-back differs from an ordinary Marseilles weave in having the fine filling; besides interlacing with the face ends, it also interlaces with the stitching ends when the latter are at the back between stitdhing points. In this way a double plain cloth is form- ed, either of which could be taken away and still leave a perfect single cloth. In fast-back Marseilles quilts, both face and back weaves are plain, the — N O V X X S O s >^ / /■/•// / / ' / ' / • / w / / / * / / / / / / / ' • / - C^ (i> K. (^ (^ Ci.CX tw B w / / / / /• / / / / • / / / w / / / / /• \ s so \ s / / / / • / / X SOS s o S S / s v^/ y / / / / / / • / / f / / \A> / / / / / / / • / / / / / . <^ •Cs Ci c> %"- & •V s s S » X X s So S SOS s C^Kfi). (b ^<^ t c\ Ci ^OvXCsC^ Ci B v>/ / / / / /• / / / / • // / w / / / / / • S X NO s o \ / / //♦-// S X O X X X s / o s ^ / / /• / / / V / / / / • / w / / / • / / / / / / / / • / x s X S S s o X ^ Ci. ^, Ci j(C cs.cs ^<^X Ci Cs JB, w / • / / / / / / / • / • / ■w / • / / / / X O S S / / / / / / X X s / S 3 S ■s s s Ft' fine cotton thread and -pj^g better quality of raincloth re- coarser count of worsted or woolen quires considerable attention in the thread. The fabric is given a wool finishing process. After the fabric dye. The cotton does not take on col- comes from the loom, it is dyed, the or. The finished fabric presents what ^.^qj ^j. ^.Qj-sted only taking color, the is termed a powdered effect, that is, cotton in the warp yarn remaining little specks of white show over the ^^^ite. Twist yarn is more or less ir- entire surface of the fabric. regular, that is, the cotton may be The fabric may be elaborated by more prominent in some places than means of mercerized cotton threads j^ others; this requires the fabric to being inserted at regular intervals in ^^ examined and where the cotton is found to be too prominent, it is dark- r!DiS5"i! ened or inked in conformity with the S*bSE!"»!H 1 ground color, after which follows the ■=J="?~"I5 . waterproofing process. This consists SS^5*iS=!" ^ °^ immersing the fabric in a combina- ■-■"■■^■'« ^^^^ °^ ingredients, such as greasy "~ Fig. 1. ~ matters of all natures, resin, paraffin, tannic acid, drying oils, salts of alu- cQ-z--=cnB mina, alums and carbonate of mag- Hj=-5=S|iR nesia. After it is waterproofed, the R=---,5-5^ fabric is pressed, made up into rolls, cbzji=i=3z then made up into garments. rzH~-3:rzr:: Fig 2. ^ Carding and Spinning Particulars. Drawing-in Draft. As has been Stated in the analysis of raincloth given above, the material both warp and filling, producing check ^^^^ j^ ^j^g construction of the yarns or plaid effects, or by using a given jg ^.^^^ ^nd cotton. As in the carding number of solid worsted threads and ^nd spinning particulars only the con- a given number of twist threads ar- struction of the cotton varn has been ranged in some order producing a described we wall follow the usual cus- stripe effect. The fabric is also va- ^q^^ ^nd give the processes, with the Tied as regards quality, in so far that particulars at each stage, through it is made with coarser counts of yam, ^.^ich the cotton passes to produce the and less ends and picks per inch; m finished yarn. The count of the cot- the cheaper qualities the plain weave ^^^ ^.^^^ described for this fabric is and ^ twill are much in evidence. lOOs. This may be made from either a Analysis follows of a first-class fab- fine, long-stapled Egj-ptian cotton or pjg. from a Sea Island cotton of a staple Width of warp in reed, 60 inches; of 1% to 1% inches, the latter being width of fabric finished. 56 inches; the one most generally used. The bales ends per inch in reed, 84; ends in of cotton are first stapled and graded warp 5 040 ^^^ ^^^ those not up to standard 21x4 reed* length and quality are put one side, Take-up of warp during weaving, 8 while the rest are mixed by hand. per cent. A LARGE MIXING Weight per yard finished, 10 ounces. jg made so that there will be as few Warp yam 2-50s worsted counts, changes as possible in the yarn made composed 1 end of l-30s worsted, 1 end fj-om the different batches. It will be 1-lOOs cotton. understood that it is often necessary Pilling, 80 picks per inch in loom, ^^ change certain partsof different ma- l-35s worsted yam. chines for almost every mixing so as LOOM REQUIRED. to suit some peculiarity of the mixing For plain raincloth, that is, a one- being made. These changes are gen- filling fabric, a broad Knowles dobbyerally slight and many times only A COTTON FABRICS GL,OSSARY. 217 mean the changes of certain speeds or settings, but whe:i running the dif- ferent mixings the first lot run through should be carefully watched to see that it compares exactly with the foregoing mixture. SEA ISLAND COTTON of a long staple is put through only two processes of picking and an open- er. Some overseers put the cotton through only one process. The beater used is generally of a two-bladed rigid type and if two processes are used the speed of the breaker is 1,300 revolu- tions per minute and the speed of the second, 1,100 revolutions per minute. As will be seen, this speed is reduced considerably from that of the other cottons that have been previously de- scribed and the reason is that a great- er speed of the beater puts in neps, which, as every one knows, is the one thing to be most feared, because dirt can be taken out, but it is almost im- possible to take out neps. To be sure, a greater portion of them are taken out, but it means much extra work and care to do it, so it is always best to see that none are put in. The beats per inch given to the cotton as it is passing through the finisher picker are 29. The total weight of the finished lap is 28 i>ounds or a 9% -ounce lap. These laps are put up AT THE CARD. The settings used for this card should be close, a 12-l,000ths-inch gauge be- ing used to set the flats from the cylin- der and a 5-l,000ths-inch gauge to set the doffer from the cylinder. The wire fillet used should be No. 34s for cylin- der and 3Gs for doffer and flats. The card should have as many working as possible and the speed should be one complete revolution every 35 minutes. The draft of the card should never be less than 130 and some overseers in- crease this to 175 or 180 on this class of work. The stripping should be done three times a day and grinding as usual. The card should be kept unusually free from fly and dirt and should produce from 250 to 300 pounds per week of 60 hours. The weight of the sliver should be 40 grains per yard. Another part of the machine that is changed differently from all other stock is the speed of the licker- in. This should be a great deal less than that used for other stocks for the same reason as given for the low speed of the beater. The speed of the licker- in should be dropped from 350 to 40(* revolutions per minute (the usual speed) to about 275 revolutions per minute. The card sliver is next combed. The differe:it COMBING PROCESSES vary, but those in most general use are as follows: sliver lap machine, ribbon lap machine and comber. The width of the lap is another part that has also been changed so that now it is 10% laches, whereas formerly an S%-inch lap was almost universal. The following particulars will be given for an 8%-inch lap; when a IQi/^-inch lap is used the proper weights may be calculated by proportion: The dou- blings at the sliver lap are 14 for an S%-inch lap and 20 for a 10y2-inch lap. The weight of a yard of lap at the front is 280 grains. These are put up at the ribbon lap machine and doubled G into 1. The weight of a yard of lap at the front of this machine is 265 grains. The laps are put up at the comber and doubled according to the number of heads that the. comber con- tains; formerly it was the custom to have six heads, but within the last few years a comber of eight heads is used. The PERCENTAGE OF WASTE taken out should be not less than 20 for this class of stock and the trim- mings and settings should be as fol- lows: Combing starts at 5. Nippers open at 3^/2, close at 9%. Lifters down at 6% and up at S% to 914. Top combs down at 5. Feed roll commences to move forward at 514. The start of the feed roll to a certain degree controls the percentage of waste taken out and is the part that is changed after the settings of the comber have been made. A later feeding means an increased amount of waste. The detaching roll moves forward at 5%. There is a great deal of difference in settings, of the top combs to segment and cushion plate to needles or cylinder, among comb- er men, but good settings even for this grade of stock are with an 18 gauge from cushion plate to half lap and a 21 gauge from top comb to segment. Either a double or single row of needles in top comb may be used, both having their advantages and disad- vantages. The weight of the sliver should be about 35 grains per yard. The sliver is next put through two processes of DRAWING FRAMES, the weight of the drawing at the fin- isher drawing being CO grains per yard. Leather covered top rolls are generally used for this stock and should be kept in perfect shape and frequently varnishe<3, as should the leather detaching rolls of the comber 218 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY and the top rolls of the sliver lap and ribbon lap machines. Several good recipes for varnish have been given in previous articles, one of which may be used. The sliver is put through the slubber and made into .80 hank roving. The front top rolls of this machine are generally varnished and some mills use rolls of a larger diame- ter, claiming less licking. The twist put in is the square root of hank be- ing made. The slubber roving is next put through three processes* of fly frames, the hank roving at each proc- ess being as follows: First interme- diate, 2.25; at the second intermediate, 5, and at the jack frames, 20 hank. The standard twist per inch is the square root of hank times 1.10 at first and second intermediates and 1.20 at fineor jack frames. Care should be taken to see that the roving is properly laid on the bobbin and that the bobbin, when full, is properly built; also that the settings of the rolls and traverse are correct. This yam is either mule or ring spun. If ring spun the partic- ulars for a fraime making 100s yarn are as follows: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 5 inches; speed of spindles, 9,400 revolutions per minute. This yarn is then spooled and then is in shape to be twisted with the worst- ed yarn. Dyeing Particulars — Piece Dyeing. LIGHT OLIVE BROWN. One-half per cent anthracene acid brown G; 6 ounces anthr.acene blue C; 2 per cent sulphuric acid; aftertreated with 1 per cent chrome. MEDIUM BROWN. One and one-half per cent anthra- cene chrome brown D; Y2 per cent an- thracene yellow B N; % per cent an- thracene acid blue D; 2% per cent sul- phuric acid; aftertreat with 2 per cent chrome. NAVY BLUE. Four per cent anthracene acid blue D; % per cent anthracene chrome vio- let B; 3 per cent sulphuric acid; after- treat with % per cent chrome. SLATE. One-half per cent anthracene blue C ; % per cent anthracene chrome brown D; 1 per cent sulphuric acid; after- treat with % per cent chrome. OLIVE. One and one-half per cent anthra- cene acid brown G; % per cent an- thracene brown; 1^ per cent anthra- cene yellow B N; 1 per cent sulphuric acid; aftertreat with 1 per cent chrome. DRAB. Six ounces anthracene blue C; % per cent anthracene chrome brown D; 1 per cent sulphuric acid; aftertreat with 1 per cent chrome. BLACK. Six per cent anthracene chrome black F E; 4 per cent acetic acid; 2 per cent sulphuric acid; aftertreat with 2 per cent chrome. DARK BROWN. One per cent anthracene yellow B N; 3 per cent a.ithracene chrome brown D; li/^ per cent anthracene acid blue D; 3 per cent sulphuric acid; 2^/^ per cent chrome. DARK GREEN Three per cent anthracene yellow B N; 1 per cent anthracene chrome brown D; 3 per cent anthracene blue C; 3 per cent sulphuric acid; after- treat with 3 per cent chrome. COTTON CASSIMERE. Cassimere was originally understood to mean a woolen cloth used for men's wear. This fabric differs from casti- mere in so far as the latter is finer and used principally for ladies' dress goods. Cashmeres are usually in solid colors only, and were originally made in Cashmere and nearnby regions from yam hand-spun from the flossy wool of the Casihmere goat. "About the year 1816, a small herd was imported into France with the view to acclimatize them and breed them for the sake of their wool, but the enterprise failed.'^ The foregoing facts will suggest that this fabric is quite costly, consequently cheaper grades, cotton and wool imitations, have a liberal demand. In varying the quality of a fabric, the manufacturers have two objects In view: first, to reduce the cost; second, to retain the same general appearance. It then follows that the change effect- ed is of degree, notof kind,consequent- ly the variations usually consist in changing the number of ends and picks per inch, or substituting a high.- A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 219 «r or lower grade of yarn as the case •maj'^ be. ANALYSIS. — XXX 25 1—1—1 FACE WARH. 3 ends Black. 7 — ] ; Black and drab. — ] ^ Black and white 2 — Black. 1 — Black and white. 1 — Black. 1 — Black and white. 2 — Black. 7 — 1 Black and drab. — 1 Black and white. 1 — Black. x2 — Black. xl 28 Bleach. BACK WARP. 1 Green x. 2 Black. Drab. Black. Drab. Black. Drab. Black. Drab. Black. Drab. Black. Drab. Black. Drab. Black. Drab. Black. 2S X Alternate garnet. PACK WARP. 11 ends Black 2/30. 8 ends Black and drab 2/30. 8 ends Black and white 20/60 1 end Bleach 2/40. BACK WARP. 19 ends Black 2/30. 8 ends Drab 2/30. 1 end Green 2/30. ENDS IN FACE WARP. 726 ends Black. 528 ends Black and drab. 52S ends Black and white 66 ends Bleach. 1.848 40 ends selvedge. 1.888 ENDS I.V BACK WARP. 1.254 ends Black. 528 ends Drab. 33 ends Green. 33 ends Garnet. 1,848 40 ends selvedge. Pilling 60 picks' per inch. 2/263 black cotton Width Of warp in reed, 34 inches. Width of fabric finished,31 inches- out- side ends per inch, 111; 500x8 reed- ends in face warp, 1,848; 20 ends 2-30s white selvedge; total ends in face warp, 1,888; ends in back warp, 1,848; 20 ends 2-30s white selvedge; total 'ends in back warp, 1,888; total ends in face and back warp, 3,776; take-up of face warp during weaving, 10 per cent; take-up of warp during weaving' 6 per cent. ' Weight of fabric per yard from loom 7.85 ounces. Weight of fabric per yard finished, 7 ounces. When both warp and fillinig are changed from wool to cotton, as with the cassimere under consideration, the general appearance may be retaiaed but the feel or handle of the fabric will be entirely different— so much so that it will be apparent to the buyer. When such radical changes are made in fabrics as to substitute cot- ton for woo'l, it oan no longer be sold under the same name; it therefore fol- lows that the fabric be designated, as, for instance, cotton cassimere. In making these cheaper grade fab- rics the methods of manufacturing are cgnnBnBDDCDDBaBn Sqjt^nnnaoBDBLDa ■nBDagaGB-sBDnaan nqnpBa«aa.zianBD«a ■^■nnnDDBn»coDDa ■^□□□□■SBanDDDBD i- Jag»DBnaDDaHS3Ba □ _,Bg«nnnnaBnponD ■pjSSSannBSBDnDnn ■agmpBaBaacnDBa DgBaaaaaDDBSBGDa ■s^BgaDnoBDBnDDaa maaDDammmnnaaama nODDOBDa I^DBDDDDn onnnoDDB annnBaDD nBananan DnnnannB rDDBnnna BncnDDDa I'iK. 1. Simplified as much as possible, chiefly because the profit will not admit of any unnecessary expense. No intricate weaves are used; such weaves as ~ twill, :^ basket weave and common rib weave are principally used for op- erating face warp. These fabrics are .generally made with two warps. The back warp interlaces with filling on the S-harness satin order (See Fig. 1.) These fabrics are confined to 16 harness, 8 harness for face warp and 8 for back warp; the warp is drawn in one end face, and one end back, the first end of face warp on the first harness, the first end of back warp on second har- ness. (See draft, Fig. 2; Fig. 3, chain ai-aft.) The back warp for these fabrics is usually plain yarn, twist yarn being too expensive and the pattern of the back warp usually differs from the face warp in regard to the color arrange- ment, but the number of ends must be the same, if one end face warp and one end back warp fabric is required. LOOM REQUIRED. These fabrics may be woven on any box, harness loom. The Crompton and Knowles would probably be the most economical. The loom should 220 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. have stands for two warp beams, one for face warp and one for back warp; in some instances both warps are beamed oa one beam, the back warp beamed tight because of less take-up. FINISHING. After the fabric comes firom the loom, it is burled, examined and mend- ed if necessary. The face of the fab- ric is sheared, after which it is run through a rotary press. The fabric, in off. This beater should be so adjusted that the proper amount of cotton is passed to the breaker picker, which is- generally either directly connected or is connected by trunking or lattice work to the opener. The beater of the breaker picker for this kind of stock is generally of a two-bladed rigid type and its speed is 1,550 revolutions per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front is 40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap. These laps are put up at the in- ?! tart of second paCtera. Four li^items to repeat. 3 equals faoe ends I equals back ends Fig. 2. p>assing through the press, runs over a perforated steam pipe, which par- tially saturates the fabric, then it is pressed by passing through heated cyl- inders, after which it is made up into rolls, then shipped. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Different mills make cotton cassi- mere out of different counts of yam, but the fabric under description is composed of 2-30s warp and 2-26s fill- ing. These yams would be made in a mill belonging to the second division as given in a previous article. The yam would be made from American cotton of a fair grade, having a staple of about 1% inches. The mixing should be done by one of the various methods that have been given in pre- vious articles. The only point to be looked out for is to see that the cot- ton is thoroughly dry and aired out before being put through the opener. For this class of fabric the raw stock is put through three processes of pick- ing and an opener. The good waste from all machines up to the slubber is miixed in before the cotton is fed to the opener. This waste should be picked up at regular and frequent in- tervals and spread throughout the en- tire mixing, and snould not be allowed to accumulate in large lots, but should be run up as fast as collected. The LIFTING APRON should always be carrying up a load of cotton for the pin beater to strike termediate picker and doubled four in- to one. The beater of this machine is also generally of a two-bladed rigid type, the speed of which is 1,500 rev- olutions per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front of this picker is 37 pounds or a 10-ounce lap. These laps are put up at THE FINISHER PICKER and doubled four into one. It is at this point that the cut roving waste is mixed in with the raw stock. This is done by two methods, both of which have been described in a previous ar- ticle. If done by hand, care should be taken to see that the percentage of cut waste mixed is not too great, because this is apt to cause licking of the laps when they are being run at the card. The beater of this machine may be either a two-bladed rigid or a pin beater, either of which has its advantages. If of the twfl)-bladed rig- id type, the speed should be 1,450 rev- olutions per minute. This gives the cotton passing under its action 42 beats per inch. Care should be taken to see that all the drafts in the pickers are properly directed where they will do the most good. The total weight of a lap for this class of goods should be 39 pounds or a 14i^ -ounce lap. A variation of the standard of half a pound (either side) is allowed. All laps varying more than this are ruu through the finisher picker again. The picker laps are put up AT THE CARD. the draft of which for this class of A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 221 work should not exceed 100. The wire fillet used should be No. 33 for cylin- der and 35s for doffor and flats. This is the American count of the wire; the equal English count is No. xOOs for cylinder and No. 120b for doffer and top flats. The settings of the card should be the same as given in connection with the article on "Indigo Prints." Strip cylinder and doffer three times a day and grind lightly at least once a month — twice a month is better — and then leave the grinder on half a day. The teeth should al- ways be kept sharp and never allowed to run faced. It is the general rule of grinders to set cards after grinding in large rooms where several grinders are employed. It is better to have one grinder or boss grinder to set all the cards and hold him responsible. Keep cards clean, especially the front end around and over the doffer bonnet. The speed of the licker-in should be 375 revolutions per minute. The flats make one complete revolution every 45 minutes. The sliver at the front weighs 65 grains per yard and the pro- duction is 800 pounds per week of 60 hours. THE SLIVER at the cards should be sized at least once a week to see how it is compar- ing with previous sizings. The sliver is next put through three processes of drawing frames, which may have ei- ther metallic or leather-covered top rolls. If metallic rolls are used, keep them clean, because if dii-t and waste collect in the flutes of either the top or bottom rolls, cut roving is almost sure to result. Keep top and bottom rolls well oiled. If top rolls are not kept oiled and are allowed to become dry, bad work is sure to result. Also see that the calender rolls have enough pressure on them to cause them to condense the sliver properly. Look out to see that the tnimpets have the right size hole at the small end. The drawing frame sliver should be sized at least three times a day, and if sized four times it keeps the work a great deal evener. The sliver from at least four heads of each frame is taken and sized separately and then averaged; a variation of not more than 5 grains either side of standard is allowed; if more than this, the draft gear is changed. THE DOUBLINGS at the drawing for this kind of work are 6 into 1 at each process. The speed of the front roller is 400 revolu- tions per minute. The weight of the sliver is 70 grains per yard. The draw- ing is next put through the slubber and made into .GO hank roving. It is not customary to varnish the slubber top leather rolls for this kind of work. See that the traverse is working prop- erly and that the top rolls are in perfect condition and set properly. Keep slubber as clear as possible and it will make returns many times over in extra production, which is often af- fected by dirt, fly, etc., getting be- tween the gears and filling up the teeth. THE SLUBBER ROVING is put through two more processes of fly frames, the hank roving being made at each as follows: First interme- diate, 2.00, and second intermediate, 6.00 hank for the warp yarn and 5.25 hank for the filling yarn. Try to keep the roving a little on the heavy side of the standard and don't put more twist into roving than is actu- ally needed to draw it so that it won't break back at the next process. Re- member that every extra tooth of twist put in cuts into the produc- tion to that extent. Keep the top rolls in good condition and change them frequently. Keep the chains clean and look out for bunches. Look out for single and double and watch the tension and the taper of the bobbin. Do not let the help fill up the bobbin after the frame has knocked off, but first be sure that the frame will knock off at the proper place. Keep frames well oiled and don't run bare spindles. ANOTHER THING to watch is jumping bobbins; set the gear properly to remedy this. Re- place all broken bolsters as soon as possible. After changing a frame over, use up all pieces from it as soon as possible. The roving for the warp yarn is spun on a ring frame having the following particulars for 30s yarn: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1%; twist per inch, 26.02, and speed of spindle, 9,800 revolutions per minute. The yarn is then spooled, twisted into 2-ply yarn, spooled, and then warped, after which it is put through the slasher and run on to a beam with the required number of ends. The roving for filling may be either mule or ring spun; if the latter, use a frame with a 2%-inch gauge, 1%-inch diameter ring and spindle speed of 8,000. This yarn is then twisted into 2-ply 26s, after which it is conditioned and then is ready to be used. 222 A COTTOX FABRICS GLOSSARY Dyeing Particulars. BLACK. Ten per cent thion black T B C; 20 per cent sulpihide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt. BROWN. Ten per cent thion brown R; 2 per cent thion violet black A; 1 per cent thion yellow G; 10 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per cent soda ash; 25 per cent saJt. DARK GREEN. Bight per cent thion green B; 8 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt. PEARL. four ounces thion violet black A; 1 per cent thion black T B C: 1 per cent sodium sulphide; i/^ per cent soda ash; 10 per cent salt. DRAB. Three per cent thion green G; 3 per cent thion orange N; 6 per cent sodi- um sulphide; 2 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt. NAVY BLUE. Six per cent thion navy blueR; 2 per cent thion blue B; 8 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt. SLATE. One and one-quarter per cent thion black T B C; li/^ per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per cent soda ash; 10 per cent salt. RED. Twenty per cent thiogene rubine O; 10 per cent sulphide sodium. BLUE BLACK. Ten per cent thion blue black B; 10 per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt. weave them to the best advantage; second, the demand is small and un- certain. Fig. 1 illustrates the effect formed in warp ondules, in which the filling re- mains in straight lines, as in any or- Fig. 1. dinary fabric. The warp forms the un- dulations. This type has not been developed to any extent in cotton goods on account of the reasons mentioned, and for an- other reason. Some of the ends curve considerably more than others, necessitating the use of several warp beams in order to have the ends at such a tension that some will not be ONDDLE FABRICS, Ondule fabrics are characterized by having one or both series of yarns, warp or filling, drawn out of a straight line, while yet remaining in the same relative positions, i. e., the curving of the yarns is not made by certain yarns crossing over others as in leno and similar fabrics. They may be placed in the novelty class. As such, the production is lim- ited in quantity in cotton goods by ^several factors, among which may be mentioned: First, costly loom attach- ments have to be applied in order to slack in the shed, while others are tight. The sample in question, al- though containing only two different counts of warp yarns, one fine and one coarse, required five warps. It will be understood readily that a greater length of warp will be re- quired for a curved end than for a straight end in a given length of cloth. The white warp yarn in Fig. 1 is cotton. When woven in only one color or one count of warp the stripe effect is very faint. The ondule principle of construc- tion is not of recent origin, similar A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 22-i goods having been made to some ex- tent in the early part of the 19th cen- tury. Filling ondules ai:e of more lecent origin than warp ondules, and may be made much cheaper, one warp only be- ing required. Fig. 2 illustrates the ef- fect of a good filling ondule, in which the filling yarns form curved or wavy effects, the warp yarns remaining parallel to each other. The filling is considerably coarser than the warp, which accentuates the desired effect. Fabrics like Figs. 1 and 2, or of combinations of these two effects, may be made with similar loom attach- ments or devices. The attachment generally used consists of a suitable mechanism, varying in detail with dif- ferent makers, for imparting to the reed, which is very deep, an up and down movement, so as to bring a dif- ferent part of it to the fell of the cloth at each pick. The reeds used are of special con- struction. In those used for warp on- dules the dents are arranged some- what like Fig. 3. ^ 3 The top, bottom and face of the reeds are straight, as in oramary reeds. For weaving filling ondules the same device may be used for actuating the reed. The reed itself is made after the form shown in Fig. 4. The solid line indicates the top, and the dotted line the bottom of the reed. The dents are equal distances apart, both at the top and bottom. When this type of reed is used, a false reed is also used as a guide for the shuttle, as in lappet weaving. Another type of reed used is made fast at one end, and in loose sections at the other. These sections contain, say, three or four dents. An engraved or grooved roller is made to separate and change the positions of the sectional end of the reed as desired. Fig. 5 illustrates a cotton fabric in- tended to imitate the high-class fill- ing ondules. To obtain this effect two leno easers or slackeners have been used instead of the reed motion. There are 30 ends in each pattern, 15 of which were placed over the first and 15 over the second easer. The eas- ers were then actuated so that the yarn over one of them wove slack for eight picks while the yarn over the other was held tight, then vice versa for eight picks. The selvedge ends were placed over the regular whip roll. Two warp beams were used, al- though one would perhaps have an- swered better. This is a simple raeth- ■^4. of obtaining the waves, but the effect obtained is not as good as when a spe- cial reed is used; nor can it be de- pended on, not being a positive mo- tion. The easers have to be adjusted to a nicety and kept in that condition or each alternate section will appear more prominent than the others. Fabrics showing a much better ef- fect than that shown in Fig. 5 may be produced by the yarn easing method. The construction data for the sam- ple is as follows: Ends per inch, 48; picks per inch, 48; width, 27 inches; warp yarn, 50's cotton, combed American; filling yarn, 2-40s cotton. Sea Island, mercer- ized ; 696 ends on number 1 beam — this includes 48 for selvedges; 648 ends on number 2 beam, total, 1,344 ends: weight, 8 yards per pound; reed, 1 end in each dent; the weave is plain on 4 harnesses. The attachments can be Fig. 5. applied to and these goods made on any ordinary dobby loom. Carding and Spinning Particulars. There are a great many different styles of ondules and these com- 224 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY prise many different counts of j-arn according to tbe grade and quality of the fabric being made. This class of fabric is made in mills of the third division, as given in a previous article, or at least those plants whose equip- ment of machinery includes combers. The fabric that has been selected out of this class of goods is made up as follows: For the warp, 50s yarn is used and is made of an American cot- ton, generally the kind called peeler, having a staple of 1% to 1 5-16 inches, being used, and for this fabric is combed. For the filling yarn a Sea Island cotton of li^ inches is used. This is also a combed yarn, the count of which is 2-40s. For th.is article we will take each yarn and treat it sep- arately, starting with the mixing. MIXING. First take the American yarn. This is mixed, as has been previously stated, at the mixing bin; the sliver waste from the machine up to the slubber is used. Care should be taken to see that too great an amount of this is not be- ing made at the different machines. It is impossible to avoid making this waste altogether, but a large percent- age of it may be saved if watched carefully. This cotton is put through an opener and three processes of pick- ing. Keep the hoppers of the open- ers well filled so as to obtain as even a feed as possible at the breaker pick- er. The speed of the beater at this machine is 1,050 revolutions per min- ute. See that the pin beater is set properly to obtain the required weight per yard of cotton being fed to the breaker picker. This picker is gener- ally provided with a two-bladed rigid type of beater, the speed of which is 1,550 revolutions per minute for this class of work. The total weight of lap at the front is 40 pounds or a 16- ounce lap. These laps are put up at the Intermediate picker and doubled 4 into 1. The beater of this picker is like that of the breaker, and its speed is 1,450 revolutions per minute. The total weight of the laps at the front of this picker is 37 pounds or a 12-ounce lap. The laps are put up at the fin- isher picker and doubled 4 into 1. The speed of the beater, if a rigid, two- bladed type, is 1.450 revolutions per minute, which gives the cotton pass- ing through it about 42 beats or blows per inch. The total weight of the lap at the front is 37 pounds or a 121^- ounce lap. A variation of one-half a pound is allowed either side of stand- ard; laps over or under this weight are run through the finisher again. At the finisher picker the cut waste from the fly frames is mixed ia in the pro- portion of one lap of cut waste to three laps of raw stock. Be careful not to use too much cut waste, as it is apt to cause the laps to kick; also be care- ful to see that the drafts of the pickers are properly directed for the same rea- son. At the card the draft is not less than 100, a good draft being 120. The speed of the cylinder is IGO revolu- tions per minute; licker-in, 300 revolu- tions per minute; and the top flats make one complete revolution every 34 minutes. DOFFER AND CYLINDER. The doffer should be as large as dos- sible and clothed with a No. 35s wire fillet, as should the top flats; the cyl- inder is clothed with No. 34 wire fillet, the equivalent English count being 120s for doffer and 110s for cylinder. Keep this wire sharp at all times, as dull wire is apt to cause kinked yarn. Grind at least once a month and reset all points after grinding. It is a good plan, although one not generally used, to brush out cylinder and dof- fer after »Tinding and before setting up. See that the grinding brackets for the top flats are 'set so as to grind the flats evenly across their face, when in their working position. This is A GREAT FAULT with most of the grinding devices and should be carefully looked into. See that the doffer stripping comb is set to clean the doffer of the web proper- ly. Strip cards three times a day and keep front free from dirt and fly. The total production for a week of 60 hours, allowing 10 per cent time for stoppages, etc., is 550 pounds and the sliver weighs 45 grains per yard. The sliver is then combed. BEFORE BEING COMBED it has to be run through several dif- ferent processes. The order of these, as well as the machines themselves, differs, but it is most general to have the machines as follows, esipecially for this class of work: Sliver lap ma- chine, at which the doublings for an 8%-inch lap are 14 into 1, the draft of this machine being small, less than 2; the weight per yard is 285 grains; for larger width laps the doublings and weight per yard may be found by pro- portion; this is also true at the ribbon lap machine. At the ribbon lap ma- chine the doubling is 6 into 1, and the weig'ht of the lap is 265 grains per yard. These laps are put up AT THE COMBER and doubled according to the number of heads, 6 or 8 being generally used, a A COTIOX FABRICS GLOSSARY 225 •6-head comber generally using an 8%- inch lap and an 8-head comber a 10y2- inch lap. These particulars are given for the Heilmann combers and not the later foreign makes, which have been tried with varying success the last four or five years. For this stock take out 15 per cent waste and set time as given in a previous article. The speed should be about 95 nips per minute. Keep all the leather top rolls of sliver and ribbon lap machines as well as those of the dra\f box and detaching rolls of the comber in per- fect condition and well varnished. It is a good plan to varnish the leather- covered detaching rolls once a week. A little trouble in this direction is well repaid. Look out to keep the per- centages of WASTE at the different machines uniform. If two or more ends break down on the table, break end running into the can, and before piecing up again, see that all the ends are running. Combers should be scoured at least once a year, when they should be taken down and all parts reset and timed. Keep table smooth and polished and do not touch with the hands those parts over which the combed sliver is running. The weigh per yard of the combed sliver is 40 grains. This sliver is put through two processes of drawing, being dou- bled 6 into 1 at each process. Leather- covered top rolls are generally used for this class of stock and they should be looked out for to see that they are well oiled and varnished and in per- fect condition. See that all stop-mo- tions are in working order so that single and double may be prevented as far as possible. The weight of the drawing is 70 grains per yard. This is put through the slub- ber and made into .50 hank roving, after which it is run through three processes of FLY FRAMES, the hank roving at each being as fol- lows: First, 1; second, 3, and jack, 10 hank. Watch the leather rolls, also the shape and lay of the roving on the bobbins. Mark all roving small and distinctly near bobbins, and do not allow pieces to accumulate. This roving is taken to the ring spinning room and made into 50s on a frame having a gauge of 2% inches, diameter of ring, 11/^ inches, length of traverse, 6 inches, and spindle speed of 10,000 revolutions per minute. The yarn is then spooled and warped, after which it is put through the slasher,where in addition to being slashed the re- quired number of ends are run on to one beam, and then it is ready for the weave room. The Sea Island cotton for THE FILLING YARN is put through either one or two proc- esses of picking, generally two. The speed of a two-bladed rigid type of beater at the breaker is 1,350 revolu- tions per minute, and the total weight of lap is 30 pounds or a 10-ounce lap. These laps are doubled 4 into 1 at the finisher picker. The speed of the two-bladed rigid type is 1,250 revolu- tions per minute, or about 29 blows or beats per inch of cotton passing through. The total weight of this lap is 28 pounds or a 9i/^-ounce lap. At the card the draft should not be less than 120, the speed of the licker-in, 275 revolutions per minute. The top flats make one complete revolution every 35 minutes. The production is 300 pounds per week of 60 hours, and the weight of the sliver 40 grains per yard. THE SETTINGS for the card should be somewhat closer than when carding peeler cot- ton; for example, the doffer should be set to the cylinder with a 5 gauge in- stead of a 7 gauge, and the flats should be set with a 10 gauge instead of a 12 gauge, which is used to set peeler cot- ton. The other particulars given above may be also used with Sea Island cotton. This sliver is next put through the same machines as given above for combing. The weight of the sliver lap machine is 240 grains per yard and the ribbon lap 220 grains per yard. The settings at the comber should be closer than those used on peeler cotton and the percentage of waste taken out should be 20 per cent. The weight of the sliver is 35 grains per yard. This sliver is put through two proc- esses of DRAWING, being doubled 6 into 1. The speed of the front roll should be 350 revolutions per minute, and the weight of the sliver 60 grains per j'ard. It is im- portant that extra care be taken with the top rolls, stop-motions, etc.. when ninning this kind of stock, otherwise the particulars given with peeler cot- ton may be followed. The leather top rolls of the slubber are varnished for this stock and it is better to use rolls of a little larger diameter than those used for peeler cotton. The hank roving made at the slubber is .65, which is put through two processes of fly frames, the hank roving being made at each process beinsr as fol- lows: First intermediate, 2.25; and 22G A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. second, 8 hank. Use a finer grain leather for the roll covering than that used for peeler cotton and look out for all the particulars given above, except that extra care should be given to the Sea Island stock. This roving is taken to the mule room and spun into 40s yarn, after which it is generally mercerized under tension and twisted into two-ply 40s, when it is ready to be woven. Dyeing Particulars. LIGHT SKY BLUE. Two ounces diamine sky blue F F; 20 per cent Glauber's; aftertreat with Vz per cent sulphate copper. LIGHT PEA GREEN. One-quarter per cent diamine sky blue F F; 1/^ per cent diamine fast yel- low F F; 20 per cent Glauber's salt; 1 per cent sal soda; aftertreat with 1 per ceat sulphate copper. PEARL. Two ounces diamine brilliant blue G; 15 per cent Glauber's salt; after- treat with Yz per cent sulphate of cop- per. PINK. One-half per cent erika pink; 10 per cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal soda. CREAM. One-thirty-second ounce diamine fast yellow B; l-64th ounce diamine catechine 3 G; 10 per cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal soda. LIGHT BROWN. One-half per cent diamine brown M; 1 per cent diamine catechine 3 G; 20 per cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal so- da; aftertreat with 1 per cent chrome. GREEN. Two per cent diamine green G; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal so- da. LIGHT SLATE. Two ounces diamine dark blue B; l-16th ounce diamine fast yellow B; 10 per cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal soda; aftertreat with i/^ per cent chrome and i/^ per cent sulphate of copper. LIGHT SNUFF BROWN. Six ounces diamine catechine 3 G; 6 ounces diamine catechine B; after- treat with % per cent chrome and % per cent sulphate of copper. SLATE. One per cent diamine black B H; 2 ounces diamine fast yellow B; 20 per cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal soda; aftertreat with Vz per cent chrome; % per cent sulphate of copper. UMBRELLA CLOTHS, The name given to these fabrics indicates the use to which they are subjected. It stands for cloths of widely different qualities, materials and weaves. The weaves, with the exception of those used for umbrella ginghams,are of small repeating types,, as plain, three-end twill, and five and six end twills of four interlacings in a repeat. Being subjected to extremes of weather,the constructions of the cloths are necessarily good. All-cotton umbrella cloths are usu- ally woven white, then piece dyed in solid colors. For cotton warp and worsted filling goods the warp yam is usually dyed before being woven. This is especially the case in colors other than black. It is much harder to get a fast color, one of the essential features of a good umbrella cloth, on union piece dyed goods than on yarn- dyed goods. Black is the principal col- or used. IN THE BETTER GRADES of umbrella cloths it is common to find silk or wool in combination with cotton. These materials are some- times combined in the same yarn, be- ing mixed before being spun. In other cases the yarns on a beam are all of one material, and yarns of different materials, from separate beams, are used in one fabric. The analysis of a good grade of um- brella cloth shows it to have been made of silk and cotton, the selvedges being of silk and the body of the wai'p arranged two ends of cotton and one end of silk alternately. The fill- ing is cotton. This is a so-called silk umbrella cloth. A good cotton umbrella fabric with a twill weave is constructed as fol- lows: Ends per inch, 84; picks per inch, 112; width in reed, 28% inches; width of cloth, 27 inches; ends in warp, 2,312; reed, 2 ends per dent; warp, 60s combed American cotton; filling, 40s combed Egyptian cotton; weave yiT twill. Plain selvedges. The cloth was woven on 12 harnesses, 2 for selvedges and 10 for ground. One of the most essential features of a good umbrella cloth is a good sel- vedge, as upon such depends not only the appearance of the cloth, but its utility. A cloth between two ribs of an umbrella would be worthless if It contained a broken selvedge. We will consider a plain weave um- A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 227 brella cloth, containing a good sel- vedge, where 2 picks work as one and 2 picks are inserted in each shed. The ground is reeded 2 ends in eaoh dent and the selvedges 4 ends per dent. The oonstruction of this fabric is 96 ends per inch of 60s warp yarn: 104 picks per inch of 56s filling; American warp and Egyptian filling, combed stock. An ordinary single box dobby loom is geinerally used when making these goods, the large number of ends per inch necessita^^ing a greater number of harnesses than are usually run on cam looms. Oare has to be exercised.when weav- ing, to make the goods as near perfect as possible, because defects made in the loom have to be remedied after- wards, or the goods have to be sold as seconds. FINISHING. On account of the combinations of materials found in mixed umbrella fabrics the finishing and dyeing proc- esses are of great importaniceand have to be done with care in order tliat each material will look the same when finished, and retain its color un- der severe usage. Especial care has to be taken with silk selvedge goods be- cause, if the selvedges are damaged, the goods have to be sold for other purposes, with a consequent loss in price. Cotton umbrella cloths are singed or sheared, crabbed and steamed. If they contain silk selvedges, the latter are moistened slightly just before they reach the singe plates or flames. When the goods are required to be sheared, they are first thoroughly burled, all knots and other uneven im- perfections being removed so that the cloth will present an even surface,free from holes, after shearing. When steaming and drying the goods, it is necessary to have them started and kept straight, that the warp yarns may be straight and the width uniform throughout the piece. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The goods considered in this article are made in the same kind of mill and from the same grade of yarns as on- dule fabrics, which were dealt with in the previous article. The card- ing apd spinning data of the one will therefore apply equally well to the other, and need not be repeated here. 100 gallons; 8 pounds immedial black N N; 10 pounds sodium sulphide; 3 pounds soda ash; 25 pounds common salt; run the pieces through for oni6 hour, take off to a washing machine- and give a good rinsing with water; aftertreat with 3 per cent chrome; 3 per cent acetic aOid for 30 minutes at 180 degrees F.; soap with 10 pounds soap; 2 pounds olive oil; 4 pounds sal soda; 50 gallons water at 180 degrees F., and rinse. Boil the soap, olive oil and sal soda together for one hour before using. For subsequent lots 2 per cent soda ash, 7 per cent immedial black N N, 8 per cent sodium sul- phide, 6 per cent common salt will be sufficient for the dyeing process. A SULPHUR BLACK is the fastest to light, washing and general wear. Another black can be dyed with sulphur black topped with logwood: Six per cent immedial black N G; 10 per cent sulpihide soda; 2 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt; rinse well, and aftertreat with 2 per cent chrome; rinse and dye with 5 per cent extract logwood; rinse and soap at 150 degrees F.; Yz ounce soap to 1 gallon water. And again a good black can be dyed with a one-dip black fixed with chrome which is very fast to light ami washing, but not so fast as sulphur A ONE-DIP BLACK. Ten per cent diamine fast black F; 2 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glau- ber's salt; dye at the boil for one hour; rinse and aftertreat with 2 per cent chrome; 2 per cent sulphate coj)- per at 175 degrees F. ; 3 per cent acetic acid; rinse well and soap with weak soap solution at 150 degrees F. HUCKABACK TOWELS. Dyeing Particulars. FAST BLACK. Dyed on the jig machine. First bath, Huckaback, or huck, is a name given to a certain type of weave which is extensively utilized in the manufac- ture of towels, being excellently adapted for that purpose. Two of the principal features de- sired in a towel are^ first, strength; second, a readiness to absorb moisture. An examination of huckaback. Figs. 1 and 2. will show that it is com- posed for the greater part of plain weave; this gives strength to the fab- ric. The moisture-absorbing qualities of a huck towel are aided by the long floats of yarn which appear regularly. 228 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. as on ends and picks 2, 4, 7 and 9 of JT'ig 2. as well as in the light twist or small number of turns per inch put In the yarns. The softer twisted the yarns, the better they are adapted for toweliag. The selvedge ends, which are re- quired to bear the greatest amount of friction of any of Ihs yams in the loom, are usuajiy of 2-ply yarns, whereas the yaras ia tiie body of the cloth are single, twisted not any hard- er than is necessary to enable them to weave well. Huckaback toweling is sold to the consumers in various ways, by piece. ■DBDacanan DaDDDBDBQ" mamamDmaao aaaadMaBDH KDaDiinziDnG aBOBGaDaaa Fig. 1. EniDBDaDBD ■DaCBDBGaU DaGnnaaaDa DGGGDBGaaa feGBGBGhDBG aDaaaoBGao GBDBOaGBnB DaaaGBGBr a ananaGLGDu ^""IGGGGn BTIBDBGDC^BG DGDaGBDBGB BGUGSiCaGKG DCCDCHGBGa BGHCaGaGBG DKuBGaGBGB BDanaaQDoa GRaBDaDHaa aQBOaDDQDG ^^ssf^b DBDBGa_aGa caaaGaaaaa DaGBGaaaaa Fig. 3. Fig. 2. BGaDaaaaan unaDDBDBDa DDaanaDBDa ■DBGaoBGaa uaaaoaoaaa BGanaDDDna B anaDDana DBDaGBGaUB Fig. 4. yard and towel. The cloth sold by the piece or yard is generally white. Completed towels, which are usually hemmed, hemstitched, or fringed, vary in size from about 17 by 32, to 25 by 45 inches for general use. A favorite size for barbers' use is 14 by 26 inches. These are all white, or are white in the body of the towel and colored on the borders, usually wiith light red or blue. Towel borders usually consist of al- ternate stripes of colored and white filling, varying relatively in size as de- siired, and of weaves other than tliose of the huckaback type. .A.n analysis of a huckaback towel shows the following construction da- ta: Ends per inch, 50; picks per inch, 44; width of cloth, llVz inches; warp yam, 14s; filling yarn, 10s; ends in warp, 854 of 149 for the body of the cloth, 40, i. e., 20 on each side, of 2-2Ss for selvedges; 23 reed, 2 ends of 14s per dent; selvedges, each 20 ends, drawn as 10 in 5 dents; the weave is shown in Fig. 3. The drawing-in draft for reproduction on a dobbyloom is straight, with Fig. 1 as a chain draft. Weave Fig. 3 differs from the chain draft Fig. 1 in having two picks in a shed. To enable a greater length of cloth to be woven in a short time, in fact, in one-half the running time ordinarily required, two strands of filling are wound together as one on a bobbin and run ofi! together in the loom. In reality, although the cloth contains 44 picks per inch, the shuttle traverses the loom lay only 22 times to weave one inch of cloth. Another method of inserting two picks in a shed at once is by the use of a shuttle containing two bobbins of filling. Objections to this method are that it is necessary to use a shuttle of a greater length than can be run on an ordinary loom, and extra waste is made if the filling from both bob- bins does not end at the same time. Huckaback towels are usuallj' made of linen, cotton, or a combination of linen and cotton. A cloth under con- sideration of the latter type, of a good quality, is 18 inches wide and contains 58 ends and 37 picks per inch finished. The yams in both warp and filling, with the exception of the selvedge ends, are single. There are 8 ends of 2-ply yarn for each selvedge. Fig. 4 is the weave used for thds cloth; 12 harnesses are required. 10 for ground and 2 for selvedges. LOOM REQUIRED. For plain white huckahack toweling an ordinary dohby loom is used, one warp beam and one shuttle only being required. Coarse cloth is usually wov- en on 4 harnesses, with a cross draw. When colored borders are required a dobby box loom containing a re- peater or multiplier motion is the best to use. A fringe motion is added to this when both borders and fringe are required. This motion automatically pulls the cloth forward several inches between each two towels, the distance being regulated as desired. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Huckaback towels are made uo of various counts of yarns which differ according to the mills in which they are made, and also several grades may be made in a single mill, but the di- vision of mills that they are made in is the second. The fabric under de- scription is made up of 14s warp yarn and 10s filling: the selvedge yarns are 2-28s. THESE YARNS are all made up of American cotton, the warp and filling yarns being made from a li/i-inch staple and the sel- vedge yarn of 1 5-16-staple cotton. The cotton for these mixings is mixed by hand, large mixings being made. They are put through an opener and three processes of picking. Only those openers that have the best means of cleaning the pin beater A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 229 should be used, as there are several on the market which do not clean the pins properly. Especially is this the case when running sliver waste, the waste becoming wound around the beater, which will be seen to be a great detriment. THE BEATERS of all three of the pickers are general- ly of the two-bladed rigid type and the particulars given below will be ap- plied to them. The speed of the breaker picker beater for this stock is 1,550 revolutions per minute and the total weight of the lap at the front is 40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap. These laps are doubled four into one at the intermediate picker and pass to the beater, the speed of which is 1,450 rev- olutions per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front of this machine is olYz pounds or a 10-ounce lap. From the intermediate picker the laps are put up at the finisher picker and dou- bled four into one. The speed of this beater is 1,400 revolutions per minute. The total weight of the laps at the front of this picker is 39 pounds or a 1414-ounce lap. The laps are allowed a variation of one-half a pound either side of the standard weight. When more than this, they are put up at the back and run through the picker again. WATCH THE EVENER motion to see that it is working prop- erly. The cotton at the finisher pick- er receives 42 blows or beats per inch fed. This cotton is generally a very dirty cotton and care should be taken to get all the dirt out possible, so that the cards will not have to do picker work. The laps from the picker are put up at the card, the di'aft of which is generally not more than 95. The speed of the licker-in is generally 300 revolutions per minute and the top flats make one complete revolution every 50 minutes. The settings of the card should be the same as those giv- en in the article on "Indigo Prints." THE STRIPPING should be done three times a day and cards, especially the fronts, should be kept clean. The cards should be ground at least once a month, when the grinding rolls should be allowed to stay on half a day. Always grind lightly and it is a good plan to have traverse grinding rolls send the grind- ing disk across the surface of the wire fillet as quickly as possible and not in the slow manner in which it is gener- ally done. Look out for the emery on the grinding disk to see that it does not become greasy. The emery should be cleaned frequently with some fluid that will remove the gi'ease. The WEIGHT OF THE SLIVER should be 65 grains per yard and the production for a week of 60 hours 750 pounds. As these yarns are carded they are put up at the drawing frame and run through three processes, the doublings being 6 into 1 at each proc- ess. The drawing frames may be equipped with metallic or leather top rolls. If the latter are used, keep the flutes clean ; and if the former, see that the top rolls are always well covered and varnished. No matter which top rolls are used, it is important to see that the stop motions are all in per- fect working order, especially those operating the spoons, for it is here a great deal of trouble is caused by single and double if they are out of order. The speed of THE FRONT ROLL should be about 350 revolutions per minute. The weight of the sliver at the front of the finisher should be 75 grains. This sliver is put up at the slubber and made into .60 hank rov- ing. From the slubber it is put through one process of fly frames for the warp and filling yarns and two processes for the selvedge yarn. The hank roving being 2.25 for warp and filling and 1.50 for selvedge at the second intermediate, the hank roving for the latter yarn is 5.50. At these frames be sure that the top rolls are in good condition and that the traverse motion is working properly. The top rolls should be cleaned frequently, at least twice a week, and new rolls put in at regular intervals, these being determined by various conditions which are different in every mill. Never run loose, fluted, bruised or uneven top rolls. Watch to see that all THE TENDERS mark their roving correctly and that they do not let single and double go. Do not allow pieces to collect, but use them up as fast as possible. Keep floor of card room clean at all times, as nothing creates so poor an impres- sion on a visitor as an untidy card room floor. From the card room the roving is taken to the ring spinning room and made into 14s warp on a frame having a gauge of three inches, diameter of ring, 21/8 inches, length of traverse, 7 inches, twist per inch, 17.77, and spindle speed of 9,000 revolutions A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY, per minute. The 10s filling yarn is made on a frame having a 2%-inch gauge, 1%-inch diameter ring, 7- inch traverse, 10.28 twist per inch and spindle speed of 6,400 revolutions pe'- minute. The selvedge yarn is spun on a frame having 2%-inch gauge, 1%- inch diameter ring, 6%-inch trav- erse, 25.13 twist per inch and spindle speed of 9,700 revolutions per minute. The warp yarn is put through a spool er and warper and from here pu' through a slasher. The selvedge i;; put through a spooler and then twisted, spooled again, and run on to a se.- vedge beam after being put through a slasher. A four and four, or five and five mock leno is based on the same prin- ciple as the three and three described above: lin the four and four the ends are reeded four i i one dent, whiJe in IMITATION GADZE-Mock Lenc, These weaves are very extensively used in cotton manufacture. The imitation of leno or gauze fab- rics can be made extremely close; in some cases the deception has even im- posed on experienced buyers. These weaves are commonly used DaDIDBDaUBDa ■■■DDDaHaDG uaaaDaaaoaDa aaaaaaaaaaan ODaaaaaanaaa B^aDaaaoaGaa DanaoaaaaauB aaaaaDBaaaDa aanaaaDaaaDB BaaaBDaDBDaa DnaaaaaaDBBB aaaaaDaaaaao Fig-. 1. for such fabrics as dress goods, cur- tains, ladies' aprons, men's shirts, canvas cloth, etc. These fabrics are charaoterized by three or more warp threads and three or more filling picks interlacing with each other very loosely, while the following warp and filling threads form a complete break aaid so can readily be kept apart for small spaces. In the warp these breaks are aug- mented by the reed by leaving one, two, three or more dents empty (if, for example,we use a plain six-haniess imitation gauze weave, as shown in Fig. 1, ends one, two and three would be drawn in one dent, while ends four, five and six would fill another dent) and by leaving one, two or more dents empty between the first group of three ends and the second group of three ends. The number of dents to be left empty depends upon the space desired between each group of ends. Diagram Fig. 2 shows the character of fabric woven with weave shown in Fig. 1. the five and five the ends are reeded five in one demt. The four and four and the five and five end patterns produce a slightly more open effect than the three and three end pattern. The former is also suitable for a fin- er make of cloth, as the open effect can be made with a larger number of ends per inch. In the five and five end or ten-har- ness weave (see Fig. 3) the second, fourth, seventh and ninth ends serve to pull the picks together in fives and make a decided opening in the cloth between the fifth and sixth picks; in the pattern the same thing takes place with the ends — they are pulled togeth- er in fives by the second, fourth and seventh and ninth picks, and if two aaDananaaB aaaaaaDDDg aaaanaaaDB BaaaaaDaaa DBDaaaDaaa BDaaaDBDaa nanDDaaaaa a"«aaaanaa □anoaaaaaa aca^BDaDaa Fi£ dents be skipped between each group of five ends it will produce the effect in fabric shown in Fig. 4. In addition to plain gauze fabrics, as shown in Fig 2, these weaves are used in connec- tion with plain woven fabrics in the form of a pattern (see Fig. 4) and also in the form of checks. The fabric shown in Fig. 4 shows a series of ends working gauze or mock leno through- out the entire pattern, forming a stripe through the entire length of the fab- ric. In the check effects these ends A COTTON FABRIC'S GLOSSARY. 231 are made to weave plain or otherwise as may be desired. Fig. 5 illxistrates a mock leno three and three check pattern, showing 18 ends working gauze for IS picks and the next 18 ends work plain for 18 picks, these two se- ries of ends alternating into a plain weave at the end of the IS picks. These check pattern fabrics in nearly all in- width of fabric finished, 36 inches; ends per inch finished, 68; reed, 1,200; take-up of warp (ground warp) during weaving, 10 per cent; take-up of leno warp during weaving, 20 per cent. Fi£ stances are given a wet finisli. By reason of the fact that the warp is reeded three in one dent, skipping one, two or more dents between each three ends will cause the plain woven part of the fabric to show more or less streaky; that is, it will show each of the three ends lying close together instead of being evenly distributed across the fabric. When subjected to the wet finish these ends will take their proper places. When making a gauze stripe fabric as shown in Fig. 4, the ends operating the gauze weave are on a separate beam because of the difference of take-up in warp during weaving. Another method of producing a mock leno is to have two ends appear as if they were twisted around sever- al other ends, that is, not resting par- allel to one another. This is readily produced by allowing the two ends to come together for two picks. then grad- ually spreading them for six or eight picks, then allowing them to gradually come together again for two picks. These two ends in the pattern are of coarser counts than the body of warp, usually a three-ply thread, and are on a separate beam from the body of the warp. Fig. 6 shows design and reeding plan for a fabric of the above descrip- tion. ANALYSIS. Width of warp in reed, ST^^ inches; DRESSING. 12 ends white. 8 ends blue. B ends white. 4 ends blue. 2 ends white. 2 ends blue. 10 ends white. 8 ends blue. 16 ends white. 1 end dark blue mercerized cotton 8 ends white. 1 end dark blue mercerized cotton 16 ends white. 8 ends blue. 10 ends white. 2 ends blue. 2 ends white. 4 ends blue. 6 ends white. 8 ends blue. 134 ends in pattern. Ends in pattern: 88 ends white 1-lOs; 44 ends blue l-40s; 2 ends dark blue 3-30s; total, 134 ends. Filling, 70 picks per inch 1-503 bleiached cotton. LOOMS REQUIRED. These fabrics are mostly woven witlh but one color filling; comsequently any ordinary harness loom would answer for weaving these fabrics. Competition and economy are factors that have caused the discarding of the old roller loom, using instead the Crompton and lamnmamnmamamauama BDSiDfflaffiDtaDfflLjfi)D*D«D«CJ«u«uBaHDBa«n»UBD DaQ'BntfiDffla'SGfflD^U'ijacMUBUHLjBLjBaBOBaBnBaB Ha!i!Dffla>BD*nfflaffiDaUfflUil«BUUD»«BDLCjBBBLLD DfflDaCJ-aU!ilDSer minute. A good weight for the sliver is 68 grains per yard at the breaker and 75 grains per yard at the finisher. The sliver is then put through the slubber and made in- to .50 hank roving. From here it is put through three processes of fly frames, the hank roving at each proc- ess being as follows: First intermedi- ate 1; second intermediate 3, and fine 12 hank. This roving may be either mule or ring spun. If the latter, use a frame with the following particulars: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse. 5% inches; twist per inch, 26.52, and speed of spindle, 8,200 revolutions per minute. The yarn is then taken and conditioned and is ready for weaving. Dyeing Particulars. AMBER. One-half per cent diamine catechine G; 15 per cent Glauber's salt: 1 per cent sal soda; aftertreat with Vz per cent bichromate of potash; V2 per cent sulphate of copper. SKY BLUE. One-half per cent diamine sky blue F F; 15 per cent Glauber's salt; 1 per cent sal soda; aftertreat with V^ per cent sulphate of copper. LIGHT PEA GREEN. Six ounces diamine sky blue F F; 8 ounces diamine fast yellow F F; 10 IKmnds Glauber's; 1 pound sal soda; aftertreat with 1 per cent sulphate of copper. PINK. One-half per cent erika pink G; 10 per cent Glauber's salt; 1 per cent sal soda. LIGHT SLATE. Four ounces benzo fast black; 1-16 ounce chrysopheni"^e; 5 pounds Glau- ber's salt; Vs pound sal soda. :a A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. PEARL. Four ounces naphthamine black N; u pounds Glauber's; 1 pound sal soda; aftertreat with y2 pound bichrome. NAVY. Four per cent naphthamine blue 2 B; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda; aftertreat witli 1 per cent bi- chrome; 1 per cent sulphate copper. NAVY BLUE. Two per cent diaminogene blue B B; 2 per cent diaminogene blue N A; 25 per cent Glauber's salt; 3 per cent sal soda. Diazotize: Two and one-half pesr cent nitrite soda; 5 per cent sulphuric acid; turn for 15 minutes and rinse. Develop: Dissolve 14 1/^ pounds beta naphthol; 18 pounds soda lye at 77 de- grees Tw.; 20 gallons boiling water; for 100 pounds yarn add ll^ g'allons of developing solution, turn for 15 min- utes, rinse and give a good soaping. RED. Six per cent primuline; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda; diazo- tize and develop as the navy blue. LIGHT YELLOW. Four ounces chromine G; 5 pounds salt; 1 pound sal soda. GREEN. Three per cent diamine green G; 3 per cent diamine fast yellow A; af- tertreat with 3 per cent bichrome. BLACK. Fifteem per cent immedial black N N; 1^ per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. FILLING REVERSIBLES. Filling reviersibles is a term given to a class of cotton fabrics used exten- sively in the manufacture of dressing sacques, kimonos, bath robes, etc. In cotton warp and shoddy or woolen filling goods the same principle of con- struction is adopted for goods for horse blankets, rugs, etc. THE RESULT DESIRED is to have a cloth containing two col- ors, each color being in solid blocks or effects, and to have one side the re- verse of the other. In low-price goods this is ohtained by a combination of we'ave, color and finishing. Fig. 1 illustrates a cloth of this type showing solid blocks of brown and white runningwarp way. Where brown appears on the face, white appears op- posite on the back. In this particular sample the white bar across the cloth shows white on both sides. Brown shows opposite white at all other places. Fig. 2 illustrates the weave for cloth Fig. 1, being on 80 ends and 96 picks. Sections A correspond to brown sec- tions on the face of the cloth, and sec- tions B, indicated on picks marked White, to the white sections. The weave is really complete on eight picks, the coloring indicating the ex- tent of the pattern. In Fig. 2 the dots indicate the face weave, i. e., at these places the filling Fig. 1. which is always considerably coarser than the warp, almost covers the lat- ter. On account of the large number of picks as compared to warp.the rela- tive sizes of the yarns and the pecul- iarity of the weave, the filling on the picks indicated by the dots comes to- gether, covering the picks indicated by the crosises. The picks marked in crosses come together on the under side of the cloth. In the section bracketed and indi- cated as containing 80 picks, the filling is picked two brown and two white al- ternately, making 40 brown picks on the face and 40 white picks on the back in sections A and the reverse col- ors in sections B. The fabric is really double in the filling and single in the warp. Sections A form a left-hand twill on A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. the face and a right-hand twill on the back; sections B vice versa. The construction of the fabric under consideration is 42 ends and 62 (31 face and 31 back) picks per inch finish- ed. The warp is 15s and the filling 7^4s. The latter contains very little twist. The warp is all white. The filling is two brown and two white for 80 picks, 16 white; total, 96 picks per pattern. The width is 27 inches fin- ished. The harness draft requires eight harnesses, four for sections A and four for sections B, in addition to two for selvedges. Reed 2 or 4 ends per dent. The chain draft is shown in Fig. 3. The box chain would be re- quired to be built for 96 picks, and a loom with a repeater or multiplier motion would be the best to use. LOOM REQUIRED. The simpler types of filling reversi- bles can be woven readily on any ordi- nary dobby loom arranged with a two by one box motion. As the warp is hidden entirely after finishing, one warp only is required. On account of the coarseness of the filling.large shut- tles are necessary. For rugs a jac- quard head is usually used. FINISHING. Practically all the finishing these goods receive is in raising the fibre to form a nap. This nap entirely oblit- erates the weave effect. The soft- twisted filling is readily raised by the card wire of the cotton raising ma- chines. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The mills that make the yarns of which filling reversibles are made, will be found in the first and sec- ond division of mills as given in a pre- vious article. The filling yarn is slack twisted and for the fabric to be de- scribed is a number TYz yarn. This is made from various stocks; some- times only straight cotton is used, but more generally it is composed of a DBnnnaDBBB ■DiaDaaaBa nBBBDBaBDa BGBBBDBODD DBDBQGBBDB BDaaBDBaBB nBDBBBDDDB aaaDBBaaaa Fig. 3. certain percentage of waste, sometimes as high as 60 per cent waste being used. THE WASTE used also differs, some using card waste, some comber and some both. It is generally safe to say if waste is used that it will be card waste, for the mills making this class of goods are not generally equipped with combers. The stock with which the waste is mixed is of from % to 1 inch staple, according to the quality of the fabric required. A fine average staple to take is one of %-inch length. The mixing would be done by hand and it is al- most needless to state that large mix- ings should always be made for va- rious reasons that have been given previously. The stock of which the warp yarn is made is % to 1 inch in length, generally the former length be- ing used. While the stock for this yarn is sometimes mixed with waste, THE PERCENTAGE of waste does not run as high as that used for the filling stock. The stock 23U A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. is put through three processes of pick- ing, before which it passes through an opener. Keep the hopper of this open- er well filled w^ith cotton so that the fitting or spiked apron will always have a full load. The beaters generally used for ihe pickers for this class of goods are of the two-bladed rigid type and the speed of that in the breaker picker should be about 1,550 revolu- tions per minute. The weight of the lap at the front should be 40 pounds or a IG-ounce lap. These laps are doubled four into one at the interme- diate picker. The speed of this beat- er for both warp and filling yarns is 1,500 revolutions per minute. The WEIGHT OF THE LAP at the front of this picker is 38 pounds or a 14-ounce lap. These laps are doubled at the back of the finisher picker four into one. The speed of this beater is 1,500 revolutions per minute, which gives the cotton passing through about 43 beats per inch. The total weight of the lap at the front of this machine is 39 pounds or a 14%- ounce lap. A variation of one-half pound either side of standard weight for lap is allowed. Those having more of a variation than this are put at the back of the finisher picker and run over again, although care should be taken not to run two of these laps at the same time, for this would be more than apt to throw the weight of the lap being made out. Look out for the direction of the air currents and see that an EVEN AND UNIFORM LAP is being made at the front. Do not fool with the lap weight adjustments too much, for too much is worse than not enough, for the former will keep the weight of the lap jumping all around, whereas the latter is more apt to get the same weight of laps. These laps are put up at the card where the draft should not be more than 90. The settings of the card used should be the same as those given In connection with the ar- ticle on indigo prints, except that of the feed plate to the licker- in. which should be set just a trifle farther, longer than the length of the staple. The flats and doffer should he covered with No. 34s wire and the cyl- inder No. 32s wire fillet. The speed of the licker should be 350 revolutions per minute, Avhile the flats should make one complete revolution every 55 min- utes. The cards should be stripped at least THREE TIMES A DAY and an extra stripping would greatly improve the yar.:, but is not generally- done. The weight of the sliver is 65 grains per yard and the production is 975 to 1,050 iMDunds per week of 60 hours. This sliver is next P'Ut through two processes of drawing where the doublings are 6 into 1. The speed of the front roll is 400 revolutions per minute for each stock, the draft of the breaker frame is 5.25, the weight of the sliver being 72 grains. The draft at the finisher is 5.60, the weight of the drawing being 72 graiins per yard. For this class of work either leather covered or metallic top rolls may ho- used. But the metallic top rolls are con- sidered by many to have a great many advantages, one of the principal ones being that more production is turned out with the same speed of roll. No matter which top roll is used, thej^ should be watched carefully to see that they are in perfect condition FOR MAKING GOOD WORK. It is also a good policy to watch the sjtop-motions. for it is these, if they are not in proper working order, that cause single to be made. The sliver for the filling yarn is made- into .40 hank slubber roving, while that for the warp yarn is made into .50 hank roving. The filling yarn is put through one more process of fly frames and made into 1 hank roving, which is taken to the mule room and spun into IVzS, having a 2.80 twist per inch. The slubber yarn for the warp yarn is put through two processes of fly frames, at the first being made into 1 hank and at the second into 3i/^ hank. This yarn is then taken to the ring spinning room and spun into 15s on a frame having a 3-inch gauge; 2%-inch diam- eter ring; 7-inch traverse, IS turns per twist and a spindle speed of 9,200 revolutions per minute. This yarn is then spooled. w?rped and then put through a slasher. Dyeing Particulars. HAVANNA BROWN. Three per cent immedial brown R Rr 3 per cent immedial cutch O; 6 per cent sulphide sodium; 30 per cent Glauber's salt; 3 per cent soda ash. NAVY BLUE. Eight per cent pyrol navy blue; 8 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 25 per cent salt. BOTTLE GREEN. Ten per cent pyrol green B; 10 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 25 per cent salt. PEARL. One-half per ce^t immedial black A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 237 N R T; 5 per cent salt; 1 per cent so- dium sulphide; 2 per cent soda ash; 10 per cent salt. SKY BLUE. One per cent tetrazo brilliant blue 6 B; 2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glauber's salt. RED. Five per cent primuline Y; 2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glauber's, Diazotize: ly^. per cent nitrite soda; 5 per cent spirits salt. Develop: 2 per cent beta naphthol; 2 per cent soda ash. SLATE. One per cent immedial black N B; i/i per cent immedial direct blue B; 20 per cent salt; 2 per cent soda ash; 2 per cent sulphide soda. ECRU. One-half per cent immedial yellow D; 1/2 per cent immedial cutch G; 1 per cent sulphide sodium; 1 per cent soda ash; 10 per cent salt. BROWN. Eight per cent katigen brown V; 2 per cent katigen yellow G G; 10 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. HELIOTROPE. Eight per cent thiogeae violet B; 8 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. BLACK. Ten per cent immedial black N N; 10 per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt. PINK. One per cent erika pink; 3 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent salt. DHOOTIES. Dhootie cloths are a class of fabrics used very extensively in Zanzibar, Af- rica., Egypt and India, for scarfs, tur- bans, and girdle or body cloths. They vary in width from 18 inches to 50 inches, and in length from two to six yards. The cut lengths vary from 12 to 40 yards. They are distinguisihed by gaudy, highly colored borders, running lengthwise, and headings running across the piece between which both warp and filling yarns are of gray, white or other light color. Both sides of the cloth are similar, the fabric be- ing reversible. The borders length- wise range from about one-half inch to tour inches in width. THE REAL DHOOTIE is a native eastern hand-woven fabric, in which the colored filling interlaces only with the border warp yarns. To weave such a fabric the services of three persons are required, one to take care of the centre and one for each of the borders. It is practically the only article of apparel used by many of the poorer classes in the eastern countries. Referring to these goods an Indian textile journal states that the follow- ing are standard sizes: 22 inches to 23 inches wide, 2 yards long; 24 inches to 25 inches wide, 2% yards long; 26 iriche's to 28 inches wide, 3 yards long; 29 inches to 32 inches wide, 3% yards long; 29 inches and upwards wide, 4 to 5 yards long. THE YARNS employed vary from SOs to 40s in the warp, and from 36s to 60s in the filli.ig. A great many of the goods are made with 34s warp and 40s filling in the centre of the goods, the borders being about 2-50s and 2-60s. Although not usually the case, they are sometimes made with several col- ored stripes in the width of the piece, in addition to those forming the bor- ders. The cross borders, or headings, are sometimes very elaborate, varying in length up to about 20 inches. In the longer types these headings are in- serted every few inches, whereas in the shorter types they are woven only at the beginning and end ?'f each scarf. The BORDERS AND HEADINGS are intended to be made so that the colors of which they are composed will appear as prominent or solid as possible. To accomplish this on the side borders the method usually adopted is to arrange the colors in the warp yarns, and crowd them in the reed so that they will cover the filling as nearly .as possible. In this class of dhooties the filling is of the same color as the warp of the centre of the goods. This filling necessarily shows to a greater or less degree in the borders and is regarded as an objectionable feature. When weaving the better grades of goods, those nearly approaching in appearance the native hand-made goods, another method is adopted to make the prevailing color in the bor- ders, ustially red, as bright as possi- ble. They are made on a loom con- taining three shuttles, one of which is a fly shuttle and carries the filling for 238 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. the centres of the cloth; the other two are small shuttles, made to work on one of the positive motion principles, as on narrow ware looms. These two shuttles WORK ON OPPOSITE SIDES of the loom and interweave only with the warp yarns constituting the bor- ders. The small shuttles cross the ends at the same time as the fly shut- tle, so that the amount of production is not affected either way by them. Three filling forks are used, one for each shuttle, so that if any of the fill- ings break, the loom is stopped in- stantly. The border shuttles run in a differ- ent plane, and move in the opposite direction to the fly shuttle, so that only one pick of filling passes in front of the filling forks on the pick required to actuate the stop-motion. Catch threads are used to connect the bor- ders and centres. LOOM REQUIRED. For plain dhooties, in which the borders as well as the centres weave plain, an ordinary single box loom is U9ed,uniess cross borders are required, when a box motion becomes neces- sary. In England, where these goods are extensively manufactured, side cam, revolving box looms are usually used. For the better grades, where the borders are interlaced with colored and the centres usually with white or gray filling, a loom of a special type, previously referred to as having posi- tively acting and fly shuttles, is used. This contains a dobby or other head motion. Whether for low or high grades, plain or fantcy, the border warp yarns are usually run from small rollers or spools, on account of being reeded differently, and are often of different counts from the centre yarns. When the goods are required to be made with colored headings, the box motion of the loom is actuated to in- sert different colors of filling as may be necessary, the loom weaving the cross borders, or headings, and centre automatically. If a fringe is desired, It is made in the usual manner. The figure ilustrates one border and part of the white centre of a cheap dhootie cloth, in which the white fill- ing interlaces with both centre and border. The border is 2 5-16 inches wide and contains five colors, red, green, yel- low, white and orange. The outer stripe of red is 1 3-16 inches wide. The count of the centre cloth is 52x46, and is reeded two ends per dent. The fancy weave portion is arranged one end of green and one end of red, alter- nately, and is reeded five ends per dent. The remainder of the border is reeded four ends per dent. With the exception of the 32 ends working as extra warp the weave of the fabric is plain. Eight white ends working as four divide the border from the centre. The border ends are ply yarns. The centre ends and the fill- ing are single. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yarns of which dhooties are made would be manufactured in mills having the equipment of ma- chinery found in the second division of mills as given in a previous article. The dhootie which is taken for an example will be supposed to be com- posed of 34s warp and 40s filling for the centre and 2-60s for the borders. These yarns are made from the fol- lowing cottons: The 2-60s is made from 1%-inch American cotton and is combed. The 40s and 34s are made from a 1 3-16-'inch staple American cotton and may be EITHER COIMBED OR CARDED. For this article we will consider that they are carded, but as it is desirable that the yarn shall be as free as pos- sible from neps the speeds and set- tings of the card will be different from those genierailly used for this count of carded yarn. All three cottons may be either mixed by hand or by ma- chine; the advantages of machine mix- ing (by means of a bale breaker) have been already previously given. Each mixing should of course be in separate bins and as large as possible, so as to A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 239 cause as little variation ao possible in tlie finished yarn. It is also an im- portant point to se© ttiat thei different bales are intermixed. The cottons are put through an opener and three proc- esses of PICKING MACHINERY. The good waste is mixed in with the raw stock as it is oo'llected, but care should be used to scatter the waste, so that it w'il'l be eivenly divided all over the mixing. The hopper of the opener sihould be kept full of raw stock all the time for reasons given in previous articles. The cotton sihoudd leave the opemer and be delivered on the lattice ajpron of the breaker in a fluffy state, and if the hopper has been kept full all the time it will alsoi be fairly evem, i. e., if ea,oh yard of cotton passed to the feed roll is weighed, a great deal of variation will not be found. The beaters of the pickers used for this class of goods! are generally of the rig- id two-bladed type, althougtu a great many are using the pin heater. When the latter is used, it does not require as high a fan speed as the rigid form of beater; this is due to its wide arms, and as it has three of these, it makes CONSIDERABLY MORE DRAFT than the two-bladed type of beater. The speed of the beater for 1 3-16- inch stock for this class of goods is 1,- 550 revolutions per minute, and for the 1%-inch stock is 1,450 revolutionis per minute. The total weight of lap at the breakeir is 40 pounds for all staples or a 16-ounce lap. These laps are put up at the intermediate picker and doubled 4 into 1. The^ speed of the beater of this machine is 1,475 rev- olutions per minute for 1 3-16-inch stock and 1,425 for 1%-inch stock. The total weight of the lap is 37% pounds or a 12-ounce lap for l%-'inch stock, and a 10-ounce lap for 1 3-16-inch stock. These laps are put up at the finisher picker and doubled as before, 4 into 1. The speed of this beater is 1,475 revolutions per minute for 1 3-16- inch staple, and 1,400 revolutions per minute for 1%-inch staple. The total weight of the lap is 39 pounds for 1 3-16-inch staple stock and 35 pounds for 1%-inoh staple. A variation of half a pound either side of stand- ard weight is allowed. All finished laps that vary from their standard weig'ht more than this are put back and run through the finis'her picker again. At this machine tne cut rov- ing waste is also mixed in. Sometimes this is done by taking out two laps at the back, the two middle ones, and the cut waste spread evenly over the space thus made. It is A BETTER METHOD to use a roving waste picker, as then all the twist is taken out of the rov- ing. After passing through this rov- ing picker the cotton is made into a lap at the breaker or intermediate machine and is then put through the finisiher picker, whien it is used as fol- lows: three laps of raw stock to one lap cut roving waste. The weight per j'ard at the front of the finisher picker is as follows: for 1%-inoh stock, 12i/^ ounces; for 1 3-16-inch stock, 14 ounces yer yard. The cotton next passes to the card. The cards for all lengths of staples will be set alike for reasoins previously given. Set doffer to cylinder with 5-l,000th&-inich gauge. Set under screen as follows: at licker- in with 12-l,000ths-in)ch. gauge; middle to 34-l,000ths and front V4, of an inch. Licker-in to cylinder w'ith 7-l,000ths of an inch. Licker-in screen to lick- er-in, 3-16ths of an inch. Set bottom licker-in knife with 5-l,000ths gauge, top knife to 10-l,000ths of an inch gauge. Set feed plate to licker-in to 7-l,000ths of an inch gauge, and top flats to 12-l,000ths of an inch gauge. The speed of the licker-in should be 300 revolutions per minute. The flats make one complete revolution every 40 minutes for all sitock. The iroduction should be 500 pounds for 2-60s yarn and 600 pounds for the other yarns. Cards should be stripped three times a day and ground, at least once a month, when the grinders should be allowed to stay on at least half a day. The cards should be reset after grinding. Special care should be tak- en to see that the top flats are sharp and are ground evenly and do not have more taken off the toe than the heel, as is generally the case un- less great care is taken. The weight of the sliver is 50 grains per yard for each staple. After passing the card THE PROCESSES of the stocks differ. We will first fol- low the course of the carded staples. These are put through three processes of drawing, the front roll speed at each process being 350 revolutions per minute. The weight of the sliver at the front is 70 grains per yard. Great care should be taken to see that the stop-motions are in per- fect working order, otherwise a great deal of trouble will result in single and double. At the slubber the sliver is made into .60 hank roving. This roving is then put through two proces- ses of fly frames. At the first interme- diate it is made into 2 hank roving and at the second into 7 hank for the 34s warp and 8 hank for 40s filling. 240 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. The card sliver "for the 2-60s yarn is combed and the general sequence of processes is as follows: Sliver lap ma- oMne, where it is doubled 14 into 1 and has a draft of about 2; a yard of lap aJt the front weighing 300 grains per yard for an 8%-inch lap. Six of these laps are put up at the ribbon lap machine and made into a 260 grain lap at the front. Keep top leath- er rolls in good condition and well varnished. Six laps from the ribbon lap machine are put up at the comber, if it is a six-head machine, or eight laps if it is an eighit-ihead machine, and the weight of the finished sliver is 45 grains per yard. The SPEED OF THIS COMBER is 90 nips per minute, the per cent of waste taken out being IG. Keep the detaching rolls well varnished, recipes for which have been given in previous articles as well as a means for keep- ing the laps of the leather from split- ting. After passing the comber the sliver is put through two processes of leather covered top roll drawing frames, the doublings being 8 into 1 at the breaker and 6 into 1 at the fin- isher. The weight of the sliver at the finisher drawing is 70 grains per yard. This is made into .50 han.k roving at the slubber and is then put through three processesi of fly frames, the hank ro\'ing at each being as follows: First, 1 hank; second, 3l^ hank, and fine frame, 12 hank. This is then taken to the ring spinning room and spun into 60s on a frame with a 1%-inch diame- ter Ting, 5-inch traverse, and a spindle speed of 8,000 revolu- tions per minute; after w*hich it is doubled into 2-60s. The roving for the 40s filling is spun on a r'ing frame having a 1%-inch diameter ring, 5V2- inch traverse and a spindle speed of 8,800 revolutions per minute, and then six)oled and warped and put through a slastier. The roving for warp is spun into 34s on a warp spinning frame with a 1%-incli diameter ring, 6i/^-inch tra.verse, and a spindle speed of 10,200 revolutions per minute, after whicli it is taken to the conditioning room. Dyeing Particulars. BLUE. Three per cent immedial indone B; 2 per cent immedial indone 3 B; 5 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per cent soda ash; 30 per ceni Glauber's. GREEN. Five per cent immedial yellow D; 5 per cent immedial indone B; 10 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda as'h; 30 per cent Glauber's. RED. Six per cent primuline; 30 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda, rinse; diazotize: 2^/^ per cent nitrite soda; rinse; develop: 2 per cent beta naph- thol, rinse and soap at 150 degrees F. YELLOW. Mordant with tannine and tartar emetic, rinse; dye with 3V^ per cent thioflavlne T and rinse. LIGHT GREEN. Dye yellow with thioflavlne T; and dj^e on top with 2 per cent brillianl: green Y; rinse and give a weak soap- ing. ORANGE. Dye with 6 per cent primuline after- treat with Vz degree Tw. solution of chloride of lime. LIGHT BROWN. Four per cent thion orange N; 4 per cent Sulphide soda; 2 per cent so- da ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt; of- tertreat with. 2 per cent sulphate of copper. MYRTLE GREEN. Eight per cent thion green G; 2 per cent thion yellow G; 2 per cent thion green B; 10 per cent sulphide soda; 3 per cent soda ash; 25 per cent salt. WINE. Eight per cent thiogene red 0; 8 per cent sulphide soda; 3 per cent soda ash; 25 per cent salt. BLUE BLACK. Ten per cent immedial brilliant black B; 10 per cent sulphide soda; 3 per cent soda ash; 25 per cent salt. DNEQDALLY REEDED STRIPES Under the above heading may be in- cluded an extensive type of co^tton fab- rics, variously known as satin or sat- een stripes, doria stripes, etc. They are made in all grades, from medium to fine, and used for many purposes, such as dress fabrics, cur- tain hangings, etc., and are iisually shown in all white or solid colors. They are characterized by promi- nent stripe effects which appear to stand up from the ground of the cloth. The raised stripes are produced by crowding more ends in a given space than are contained in an equal space occupied by the ground ends and by weaving them differently. As a rule A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 241 the yarns forming the raised stripes are woven in satin or twill order, warp flush weaves, while those form- ing the grouad weave plain. Theoretically, warp ends weaving plain should take up or contract in length faster than ends weaving twill or satin, on account of the greater number of interlacingis. This applies to cloths in which each dent contains the same numiber of ends throughout the entire width of cloth. It has been found in practice that when weaving a fabric containing sec- tions reeded, say, two ends per dent, and others four or five ends per dent, the yanus that are crowded in the reed will contract more than those reeded two ends per dent. For example, a A B A C A B DiDaaBDa naaBiiB na anaa cia aaaaaa aaaGaaaa aaaaaa an aaaa aa aaaaaa aaaaaaaa aaaaaa aa aaaa aa aagaaB aaaaaaaa aaaaao aa aaaa aa aaaaag oaaaaaaa aaaaaa aa aaaa am anaaaa a jaaaaao aaaaaa aa aaaa aa aaaaaa aaaaaaaa uaaaaa na aaaa aa naaaaa aaaaaaaa aaaaaa aa aaaa ma Baaaga aaaaaaaa aaaaaa na aaaa db aagaBB Baaaaaaa aaaaaa aa aaaa aa aaaaag aaaaaaaa aaaaaa aa aaaa ga agaaaa aaaaaaaa aaaaaa aa aaaa aa aaaaaa 6 times 2 times 5 times 2 times Fig 1. warp stripe interlaced in five ends sat- in order and reeded five ends per dent would contract in length aboiut as fast as the yarn® weaving plain in the same fabric, if the latter were of the same counts of yam and reeded two ends per dent. This fact explains the reason why satin stripe fabrics are usually woven from one beam. A characteristic weave is shown in Fig. 1. The warp lay-out of one repeat of the pattern is as follows: Ends. Dents. Harnesses. 48 24 1 to 6 12 2 7 10 i-i 2 11 and 2 i 4 1 13 to 16 J 5 times. 2 11 and z 12 2 7 to 12 Selvedges on harnesses 1 and 2. The chain draft is shown in Fig. 2. In Fig. 1 sections A weave plain, sec- tions B weave 6 end warp satin, and sections C weave broken crow, warp face. When combining weaves in this manner one of the principal points to consider is to bring the warp float of one section opposite the filling float of the adjoining section, or, as it is termed, they shcmld be made to "cut" each other as well as possible. When this is done, the stripes have a more distinct and cleaner cut appearance than when it is ignored. The construction data of the sample under consideration are: warp, 45s; filling, 40s Egyptian; finished width, 28 inches; width in reed, 29.9 inches; ends in warp, 2S5G; sky reed, 76. This represents the proportional number of ends per inch in the plain section. Average sley, 102. This in- dicates the average number of ends per inch in the entire width of cloth. Picks per inch, 80. These goods may be woven on a single box dobby loom, the warp yarns being of one count, and one filling only being required. The fabrics are found in many va- riations of patterns and qualities, and are subjected to suitable methods of finishing, according to the use to which they are intended to be put. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The mills that make unequally reed- ed stripes will be found in the second division, and while the count of yarn varies to a great extent for this class of goods, a good average count would be 45s wairp yarn and 40s filling. It is not our intention to say much about the cotton warp yarn otherwise than a few general remarks, i. e., that the yarn is of 11^4 to 1% inch American stock and carded, the hank . rovings being as follows: for the slubber .55 hank, first intermediate, 2.50, and for the fine fly frame 10 hank, and is ring spun into 45s yarn. Further partic- ulars for making this count of yarn may be found in previous articles deal- ing with the same length of stock and Top. aaDBDaaaaaaaacaa BaBaBaBBBaaaaaaa aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa anaaaaaaaaaaaaaa aaGBaB>a"""""'=>*> ■nBaaaaaBaBaaaaa aaaaaaaaaaaagBBB BaaGaaaaBaaaaaaB naaaaaBaaaBBBaBB BaBaaaaaBBagaBBg naaaDaanaaBBgaBB BOBaBaBBBDBBaaaa Fis: 2. making counts of yarn from 35s to 50s. In this article it is our intention to deal with THE FILLING YARN which is made from Egyptian cotton of 1%-inch staple. On account of its pe- culiar nature EgA'ptian cotton is es- pecially adapted for tilling yarns and it is a general custom lo make the filling yarns of this kind of cotton, al- though it is not done in all styles of fabrics, and while the filling yams of fabrics previously described might equally as well have heen made out of Egj^ptian cotton, still for some special reason the kind of cotton given for filling yarns has been selected. The Egyptian bale is about ?>00 pounds heavier than the American bale, so 242 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. that so large a number will not be re- quired in tbe mixing, which may be done by hand or by the use of a bale breaker. It will also be found that Egyptian cotton is much more easily handled than other kinds of cotton. By this we mean that it gives less trouble to oiperate it at the different processes. The mixing should be made in the same manner as described in previous articles. The cotton for this stock is put through three proc- esses of picking and an opener. The beater used at each process is gener- ally the two-bladed rigid type. The SPEED OF THE BEATER at the breaker picker is 1,450 revolu- tions per minute; at the intermediate picker 1,375 revolutions per minute, and at the finisher picker 1,200 revo- lutions per minute. The total weight of a lap at the breaker picker is 40 pounds or a 20-ounce lap; at interme- diate picker, 38 pounds or a 12-ounce lap, and at the finisher picker, 35 pounds OT a 12%-ounce lap. The in- structions given in previous articles for picking should be followed. At the card the draft for this stock should not be less than 120. The flats shoula make one complete revolution every 30 minutes, and the speed of the lick- er-in should be about 300 revolutions per minute. The weight of the sliver at the front should be 45 grains and the production for a week of 60 hours should be niO't more than 500 pounds. The setting points should be set to the same gauges as given in last article, while the particulars given for grind- ing, cleaning, stripping and oiling that have already been given for the same length of staple of American stock may be used. Egyptian cotton is eas- ily combed and, as one overseer puts it, might be combed with a rake; still considerable care should be given to it to see that it is properly done. The particulars for sliver lap machine, rib- bon lap machine and six-head comber for an 8%4nch lap are as follows: Sliver lap machine doubles 14 into 1 and weight per yard of lap is 295 grains; at the ribbon lap machine the doubling is 6 inito 1, the weight per yard being 260 grains; at the comber the doubling isi 6 inito 1, the weight of the silver is 47 grains. The percentage of waste taken out at the comber for this stock fbr fabric named is 16. Use settings and turnings giv- en in a previous article. THE COMBER SLIVER is next put through two processes of drawing, the v/eight per yard at the front being 70 grains per yard with doublings of C into 1 at each process. Use either metallic or leather top cov- ered rolls, this stock running equal- ly well on each. At the slubber the sliver is made into .50 hank roving and from here it passes through three processes of fly frames, the hank rov- ing at each being as follows: First intermediate, 1 hank; second interme- diate, 3 hank, and fine frame, 10 hank. The twist gear used at each process should be one tooth smaller than that used for the same hank of roving made from American cotton. Watdi the rolls, both top and bottom, to see that they are properly seit. After leav- ing the fine frame the roving may be either mule or ring spun, sometimes one and sometimes the other being preferred for certain reasons. For this fabric the roving is generally ring spun. For sipinning 40s filling yam of 1 5-16-inch staple Egyptian cotton use a frame with a 2%-inch gauge, IVz- inch diameter ring, and a 5%-inch traverse, and spindle speed of 8,800 revolutions per minute. Dyeing Particulars. PEARL. Four ounces immedial black N R T: y2 per cent sulphide sodium; 1 per- cent soda ash; 10 per ceot Glauber's. SLATE. One per cent diamine black B H; 4 ounces diamine fast yellow B; 1 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glauber's salt. FAWN. One per cent diamine fast yellow B; 4 ounces diamineral brown G; Vz ounce diamine brown B; 1 pound sal soda; 20 per cent Glauber's. SCARLET. Five per cent diamine scarlet B; 2 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glau- ber's. RED. Four per cent diamine fast red F; 2 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glau- ber's. MYRTLE GREEN. Four per cent benzo green G G; % per cent chrysophenine; % per cent benzo fast bl'ack; 3 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glauber's. HELIOTROPE. Two per cent tetrazo lilac B; 2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent Glauber's. LIGHT BROWN. Two and one-half per cent diamine brown 3 G; 2 per cent sal sOda; 25 per cent Glauber's. DARK BROWN. Three per cent diamineral brown G; A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 243 % per cent diamine brown M; 1 per cent diamine catechine B; 2 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glauber's. NAVY BLUE. Six per cent diamine dark blue B; 2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent Glau- ber's salt WINE. Five per cent diamine Bordeaux B; yz per cent diamine fas.t red F; 3 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glauber's. PINK. One-balf per cent Erika pink G; 1 per cent sal soda; 10 per cent salt. SKY BLUE. One per ceat diamine sky blue F F; % per cent sal soda; 15 per cent Glau- ber's. BLACK. Ten per cent immedial black N N; 2 per cent soda ash; 10 per cent sodium sulphide; 30 per cent Glauber's. STOP PEG CHECKS, The above term is used in cotton mills to indicate a type of fabric ex- tensively made for dress goods and decorative purposes. In the dry goods trade the goods are found under va- rious names. They are an extension of the type of goods, unequally reeded stripes, ex- plained in the last article, and are char- acterized by certain yarns in both warp and filling appearing to stand up from the ground cloth in regular or irregu- lar block effects. They are usually woven white and bleached or dyed as may be required. This article is really supplementary to the last one, the points referred to there applying equally as well here. A check is almost always formed by a crossover effect in the filling in con- nection with a distinguishing stripe in the warp. If the effect warp way is not as prominent or more prominent than the effect filling way, a barry pat- tern is produced, objectionable in al- most all classes of textile fabrics. In stop peg checks the effect warp way is formed by crowding some of the ends and weaving them in a differ- ent manner from the others, as in un- equally reeded stripes. The effect fill- ing way is formed by interlacing the yarns in a certain manner, say plain, for a certain number of picks, then changing the order of interlacing to another weave, say a filling sateen, for a definite number of picks. When weaving the plain section, the take-up motion of the loom works in the ordinary manner, whereas when weaving the filling satin section it Is disconnected, as required, so that more picks will be inserted in a given space. The device used for disconnecting the take-up motion is usually connect- ed to one of the levers of the dobby and called into action by pegs placed in the pattern chain; hence the term, stop peg checks. A friction let-off is preferable to a positive let-off motion for this class of goods. Fig. 1 illustrates an exam- ple of the simpler type, consisting of sections of plain, warp sateen and fill- ing sateen. The analysis of the sam- ple under consideration shows the fol- lowing data: Warp, 60's; filling, 90's; cloth width, 27.5 inches. In the plain sections there are, in proportion, 72 T! Fig. 1. ends and 72 picks per inch. The av- erage number of ends and picks per inch is 114 each. The warp lay-out for one pattern Is as follows: Ends. Dents. 24 12 = 2 ends per dent 30 5 = 6 ends per dent 34 12 = 2 ends per dent 30 5 = 6 ends per dent 108 34 One warp only has been used. The harness draft is shown at Pig. 2\ 244 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY, The chain draft, exclusive of sel- vedge, is shown in Fig. S. In this fig- ure marks \ correspond to the plain sections in the cloth; dots corre- spond to the warp satin sections in / / / / /' I / 4 / / / / //• ' / / / / / / / / / X o / /■ / / 4 n / / / // / // // // / / / ^ /// / * 9/ / / / / > / / / / • / / / / / // /•/ / / /// / f / t / < V. \ • •••••-'•••• \ \ \«»«« ««••• • \ \ •• •••9* ••• \ \ \ •••«• »•««• \ \ s ^ •«••« •••• \ \ •• •«••• •«• \ \ *•»•• ••••• « \ • «*«•• •••• I I f / i / • /// / / / / // / / // / / . //// / ■ / / /■/ / // /// / / / / / / / / / 1 * / / / 1 / / / / / / / / / / K / /■ f f / / // // / / / // TWt» \ >• •• ••••• • s s ••••• ••••• s. V ••• ••»•» •• V' %•••«! ••••• s \ • ••••• ••«• V V ••••« •«•#« N \ •«••« •*«• \ V«««t ••••« • X V »• ••*•# »«• V \ •«#♦# ••«•• \ V t** •«••• •« V % « ••••• 4« • I I I V J 4 s 6 7 a of ground warp during weaving, 5 per cent; take-up of figuring warp during weaving, 12 times the length of fabric woven; ground warp, 1-COs cotton; fig- uring warp, 2-40s mercerized cotton. In the drawing-in, the ground warp only is drawn through the heddles in the harness; the figuring warp passes over the harness into the eyes of the needles, the needles being in front of the reed. The figuring warp is not drawn through the reed, but is guided entirely by the needles. Filling: IV^ dram silk, picks, 90 per inch finished. Pig. 1. is satisfactory in all its aspects, viz., appearance, feel or handle and wearing qualities, absolute accuracy is required in calculating for the construction of such a fabric. Grenadine may be wov- en in the gray, then dyed any color de- sired, or the warp may be dyed in the hank and the filling dyed after it is woven into the fabric. In the better grades these fabrics are usually woven with dyed yarns. The prevailing color for grenadines is solid black. ANALYSIS. Width of warp in reed, 30 inches; width of fabric finished, 27.5 inches- ends per inch in reed, 84; ends per Fig. 2 shows ground and figure- weave. Fig. 3 ground warp drawing-in draft. LOOMS USED. These fabrics are woven on variousj. looms, various makes of dobby looms, lappet, swivel or jacquard, depending entirely on the character of figure to be woven. The jacquard loom is used when the fabric is to be ornamented by large broken plaids, requiring too- many ends to be conveniently handled on a dobby loom. FINISHING. The finer grade of grenadine requires A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 263 very little attention as regards fin- ishing. After the fabric comes from the loom it is examined for broken threads or picks. The finishing is prac- tically in the weaving. If the fabric is perfect when it comes from the loom, it is run through the rotary press, sub- jected to a little steaming and slight pressure, and then made up into laps ready for the consumer. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The counts of yarn used for the warp in the sample described above 500 revolutions per minute; interme- diate, 1,400 revolutions per minute, and finisher, 1,400 revolutions per minute. The WEIGHTS OF THE LAP for this fabric would be, at the break- er, 40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap, inter- mediate, 38 pounds or a 12-ounce lap, and at the finisher, a 38-pound or a 13- ounce lap. For the Sea Island stock there would be an opener and two processes of pickers, the speed of a rigid two-bladed beater being as fol- lows: 1,300 revolutions per minute at Fig. 2. for grenadine are l-60s ground warp and 2-40s for figuring warp. The sta- ple cotton used for the ground warp would be about 1% inch for Allen or peeler cotton, while that used for the figuring warp, which is mercerized, would be made from a Sea Island cotton, which is especially adapted for mercerizing purposes, of 1%-inch staple. The 1%- inch peeler cotton would be put through an opener and three processes of pickers, the speed of a two-bladed beater being as follows: Breaker, 1,- breaker and 1,200 revolutions per min- ute at finisher; the weight of the lap would be 34 pounds or a 10-ounce lap at breaker, and at the finisher a 30- pound lap or a IQi/^-ounce lap. For general instructions for mixing and picking, use those that have been pre- viously given. At the card the partic- ulars used for the peeler cotton are: A draft of not less than 110, with a licker-in speed of 300 revolutions per minute, flats (110) making one com- plete revolution every 35 minutes. The speed of the cylinder is 160 revo- 254 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. lutions per minute The production should be 500 pounds with a 45-grain sliver for 60 hours per week. FOR SEA ISLAND STOCK the draft should not be less than 130. The speed of the licker-in is 275 revolu- tions per minute, flat 1 revolution in 35 minutes, the weight of sliver 40 grains per yard and the production 350 pounds per week. The wire fillet used for both stocks should be 34s for cylin- der and 36s for top flats and doffer. Use comber sliver is next put through two processes of drawing frames, the doublings being 8 into 1 at the breaker for peeler and 6 into 1 for Sea Island, while at the breaker the doubling is 6 into 1 for both stocks. If metallic rolls are used they should be spread Vs of an inch farther apart than when leather top rolls are used. Watch the stop-motions. The weight of the drawing sliver at the finisher drawing is 75 grains per yard for the peeler and 60 grains for the Sea Island stock. Dnaii:]DD«a:]3zi3aiiHaannnnnBanDnnDnBananDan»DDnnnaaBnDDDnDn»aoDnnnan DanDDaBaDnajGnBGDDaQaniiDannaaaBjnaananBaaaajaaBaaDaanaHannannDDn DnDnDaDnaDDanBDnanaDGHnaDnaGDHaaaaaaaBnaDaDnnHnnanDaDBaanDcnaDnn DDGaHDDDDnnDHaaaannaBaanaaDDBaDaanaaiiaDDannaHnDnanaaBDDDmnaDDan DDDinaannnaBmGnanDBQGDZiaGaBaDGDaniiBnnDaanaBunjnnnaBDDaunnDBDaDn DD"GaGGGaG»GGaaGaGHaaaGGGGBGGGGGGaBGanGaaGBaaGaaGGBG:]GaaGa«GaGDa DlQaaGGaGBGGGaaaGHanGGGaGHGGGGaGGBGcaGaaaBGGGGGGGBGaaGaaGBGGanan ■aDaGGaGBDaaaDGaBGaGGaDG«GGGGGGG«aaGGanG«aGGaGGG«aaGaaaaHaGGaaaD Fig. 3. as large a doffer as possible. The set- ting points have been given pre- viously for these stocks. Strip three times a day and grind each card at least a day every month. Both the Sea Island and the peeler cottons for this class of goods are combed and for this article we will suppose that an 8%-inch lap is use. For THE PEELER STOCK the ends are doubled 14 into 1 at the sliver lap machine or, as it is some- times called, the small doubler, the weight per yard of the lap being 300 grains, and at the ribbon lap or large doubler these laps are doubled 6 in- to 1, the weight of the lap being 280 grains per yard. These laps are put up at the comber and doubled 6 into 1. The percentage of waste taken out is 16 and the weight of the sliver is 45 grains per yard. Use settings and timings previously given. For the Sea Island stock the weight at the sliver lap is 220 grains per yard and these laps are doubled 6 into 1 at the ribbon lap machine, the weight of the lap being 215 grains per yard. At the comber the doublings are 6 into 1 and the weight of sliver is 35 grains per yard; 20 per cent of waste is taken out and the settings and timings used are the same as those given in the ar- ticle on Indian dimity. VARNISH. Do not use the same varnish for the sliver lap, ribbon lap and draw box rolls and the leather detaching rolls of the comber. For the latter use a varnish that has less glue and a dead finish, while for the former rolls use a roll with a smooth, glossy finish, but use a varnish that does not peal or crack easily. Always keep rolls well var- nished and in good condition. The AT THE SLUBBER the sliver for 60s yarn is made up into .50 hank roving, after which it passes through three processes of fly frames or speeders, being made into the fol- lowing hank roving at each process: 1st intermediate, 1 hank; 2d interme- diate, 3 hank and fine frame, 12 hank. The Sea Island stock is made into .70 hank at the slubber and passes Fig. 4. through two processes of fly frames, where it is made into 2.25 hank roving at 1st intermediate and 8 hank at finisher frame. Use all the precau- tions given in previous lessons as to rolls, etc., and remember that the Sea Island stock REQUIRES LESS TWIST per inch than the peeler. The peeler cotton is made into 60s hank on a warp spinning frame, the particulars of which have been given in a pre- vious article, while the Sea Island is A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. made in 40s yarn on a warp frame having a 1%-incli diameter ring with a 6-inch traverse and a spindle speed of 10,000 revolutions per minute; this is then twisted and put through the mercerizing process, after which it is ready for use. A good slasher sizing for 60s yarn for light-weight cloth is as follows: Water, 100 gallons; potato starch, 54 pounds; Yorkshire gum, 2 pounds, and white soap, li/^ pounds. Dyeing Particulars. Dyed in jig machine. BLACK. 8 per cent thion black T G C; 8 per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt. BLUE. 6 per cent thion blue B; 10 per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt. Dye and rinse well. Aftertreat with 2 per cent peroxide sodium; 8 per cent sulphate magnesia; S per cent acetic acid, 8 degrees Be. Dissolve the sulphate of magnesia first, then put in the peroxide of sodium in small quantities, and enter the goods; work for 20 minutes first; then run the ace- tic acid into the bath, and gradually increase the heat to about 180 degrees F. BROWN. 4 per cent thion brown R; 4 per cent thion brown O; 2 per cent thion orange N; 12 per cent sulphide so- dium; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt. BRILLIANTE. Brilliante is a cotton fabric of light or medium weight, distinguished by small, detached figures, usually of geo- metrical or simple character, arranged on a plain ground. The figures are formed with the filling, which is soft twisted. The object sought is to cover the warp with the filling as much as pos- sible, both in the ground and figure. It is obtained by using warp yarns con- siderably finer than those used for the filling in the same piece, aided by the slack twist in the filling. The goods are used principally for shirtwaists and dress goods. Fig. 1 illustrates a typical brilliante fabric, the analysis of which shows the following data: 88 sley, 66 picks, 50s warp, 30s filling; finished width, 26%. inches. The pattern is complete on 100 ends and 84 picks. The figures are arranged in irregular positions, 8 in a repeat. One of the figures is illustrated in Fig. 2; marks represent filling. Like many other cotton fabrics.goods under this name are made in various Fig. 1. grades, variations in the counts of yarns necessitating corresponding variations in the counts of cloth. A fabric under consideration, shown in Fig. 3, has a filling so coarse, as compared with the warp, that it has the appearance of a poplin ground. This is a dobby pattern, the spots be- ing arranged in a 4-end sateen or brok- en crow order. Each spot is made by the filling covering nine ends on two liicks, as in Fig. 4. The float of the naaDDDaiiDnDDDaDDnnnccn naDDaaBBBaaDDDDDDDDL CD Danan»B«ii«anDDnDCGDCcLi DGaa'MBBBIlHBDDDDDL nCDD DBSaasaBBBBBBBODDDr CDD BaBaaaBaaaBBBMBaDCDDCD DBaBaBBaaaaBBBBBDDCDrn aJaaaaaaa iBBaaaGDcpGca DGaaaaaBBBaaBaannDaccn nn33BaBBaBacBDGCi»rcccq naDaaaaBBBaaaDnBBBrprG DcnaaaaaBaBanGBBaBBCcn DaaanaaaaancGBBBBBBBrn DannaaDGBaGrBBiiaBBBBBn Dmaanona -aBBBBBBajaa DDoaaonGnDGaaBBBBBB»Bn • DnDDDDGnDnCDaaaBBBBBCD DnaDnDGDDDDDGGBBBBBCGn DnDnDGnnrncr-GCCBBarrm nDaaDCDGGnaCCGL'CBGLLCD FIsr. 2. second pick of each alternate spot is moved over two ends. LOOM REQUIRED. Most brilliante patterns necessitate the use of a jacquard head. A machine of 300 or 400 hooks gives ample scope for designs. The goods being of firm structure, with all the ends taking up 256 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. practically evenly, they could be wov- en most economically on a light run- ning single box loom fitted with a double lift, single cylinder jacquard. One warp and one filling only are re- quired. There being but little scope for de- veloping other than small designs of this type, on dobby looms, they are made to but little extent on these looms. Experience has taught that Fig. 3. patterns like Fig. 3 require too many harnesses on a dobby loom for weav- ing plain to the best advantage. FINISHING. These goods are usually subjected to the English or French nainsook finish- es, mercerized or printed. By the English finish the fabric, after it leaves the loom, is boiled off, then bleached, after which it is softened by immersing in a light solution of glyc- erine, or cocoanut oil, and flour or farina, after which it is dried by pass- ing over heated cylinders, then run through a rotary press with very light pressure. In the French finish, after the fabric is bleached it is stiffened by immersing in a solution of size, com- posed of the following ingredients: flour, wax and gelatine, after which the fabric is dried, then slightly sprinkled with water, then run through the cal- ender, which completes the finishing process. The, fabric illustrated in Fig. 1 has imdergone the mercerizing process of finishing, having been mercerized in the piece. Brilliante is a type of goods in which the essential qualities of the pattern are improved by the mercer- izing process. When they are printed, the printed patterns are secondary to the weave effects and usually consist of small detached sprig or floral effects ar- ranged a great distance apart. and third divisions as given in a pre- vious lesson. The yarns used in the sample under consideration are 50s for warp and 30s for filling. Both of these yarns are combed and made from the sam.e grade and staple of cotton. The filling is coarser and according to es- tablished rules should be made of a shorter length of staple, and this would be true if it were not for the fact that in order to produce certain effects in the cloth this yarn is required to have a softer twist than that genei'ally em- ployed for this count of yarn. The cot- ton used may be a peeler of 1%-inch staple. THE MIXING would be done as described in previous articles, the good sliver waste from the machines up to the slubber being thrown into the mixing bin. If the equipment of machinery does not in- clude a roving waste machine, a good way to mix the roving waste is as fol- lows: Run the roving waste through a picker, allowing il to run on the floor at the front, and not formed into a lap as is generally done; this is then gathered up and scattered over the mix- ing. This is a very good method, but is not generally used on account of the pickers having all they can do to keep up with the cards. This class of work is put through an opener and three processes of pickers. The pickers, if supplied with a rigid type of beater having two blades, have the following SPEEDS at each process: Breaker picker, 1,500 revolutions per minute; the fan speed 1,400 revolutions per minute; interme- diate picker, 1,450 revolutions per min- ute; fan speed, 1,050 revolutions per Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yarns of which brilliante is com- posed are made in mills of the second minute; finisher picker, 1,450 revolu- tions per minute; fan speed, 1,100 revo- lutions per minute. The weights of the lap at the different processes are as follows, the doubling at each process after the breaker picker being 4 into 1: breaker picker, total weight, 40 pounds; weight per yard, 16 ounces; in- termediate picker, 39 pounds or a 12- ounce lap, and finisher picker, 36 pounds or a 12i/^-ounce lap. Of course the laps should be kept of as even a weight as possible, a variation of only S ounces either side of the standard weight being allowed at the finisher picker. These laps are put up AT THE CARD and for this fabric the draft should A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 257 -not be less than 110. The licker-in speed should be 300 revolutions per minute. Flats should make one com- plete revolution every 38 or 40 min- utes. The weight per yard of the sliver at front is 50 grains per yard and pro- duction for a week of 60 hours is 550 pounds. Set doffer to cylinder to a o-l,000th-inch gauge; licker-in to cylin- der to a 7-l,000th-inch gauge. Set cylin- der screen at licker-in to 12 gauge, at centre to a 34 gauge, and at front, i/4 inch. Set back plate to cylinder at 10 gauge at bottom and at 22 at top; licker-in screen to licker-in, 3-16ths inch from licker-in. Set licksr-in knives, top knife at 12 gauge, bottom knife at 5 gauge; if only one knife, set at 5 gauge. Set feed plate to cylinder ac- cording to length of staple. This is AN IMPORTANT POINT many times overlooked by men in charge. The general rule is to set at this point the same for all lengths of staple. This is wrong, because in short- staple cotton the feed plate should be set closer than for long stock. For ex- ample, suppose the feed plate is set to licker-in at 7 gauge for 1%-inch stock and we will say that this gives the distance from bite of feed roll to licker-in 1% inches. Now we change to 1 34 -inch Sea Island stock. If we do not reset the feed plate we are almost sure to break the fibre, and if the cot- ton is stapled at the front of card and compared with the staple at the back, it will be seen that this is what is be- ing done. Of course the proper remedy for this is to get a feed plate with the proper shaped nose for each length of staple, but it is not always possible to do so; the NEXT BEST REMEDY is to set the feed plate farther back or to slow down the speed of your licker- in. so that the fibres will not be struck away from the feed roll so quickly. If the setting at this point is the same for all staples and gives a variation of i/^-inch length in staple at front and back, note result. If the staple breaks, it is weakened so much. Set top flats to 12 gauge at back and to 10 gauge at other setting points. Set front strip- ping plate to 22 gauge at bottom and at top set from a 7 to a 12 gauge, accord- ing to the strip wanted. At the sliver lap machine the doub- lings are 14 into 1 for an 8%-inch lap, the weight of a yard of lap being 295 grains. These are doubled 6 into 1 at ribbon lap, the weight being 275 grains per yard. At the comber these laps are doubled either six or eight into one according to the number of heads. For a G-head comber the sliver at coil- er should weigh 45 grains per yard; speed of comber, 90 nips per minute; percentage of waste, 15; and draft about 27.50. Use same setting and timing as given in previous articles. At THE DRAWING FRAME two processes are used, the doublings being 6 into 1 at each process. The speed of front roll at each process should be 400 revolutions per minute, and the weight of the sliver at the finisher drawing should be 70 grains per yard. At the slubber this is made into .60 hank roving and is put through two processes of fly frames, the hank roving at each process for the 50s warp being 2.50 at first intermediate, and 10 hank at second process. For the SOs the hank roving at the first intermedi- ate is 2 and at the second process 6 hank. Look out for the points that have been explained in previous arti- cles. At the spinning room the rov- ing for warp yarn is spun into 50s un- der the following conditions: diameter of ring, IVz inches; length of traverse, 6 inches; twist per inch, 31.80; spin- dle speed, 10,000 revolutions per min- ute. The filling yarn is mule spun, with 2.75 times the square root of count for standard twist. Dyeing Particulars. NAVY BLUE. Four per cent naphtamine blue 2 B; 25 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. PINK. One-half per cent Erika pink G; 20 per cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal soda. SKY BLUE. One-half per cent diamine sky blue F F; 10 per cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal soda, PEA GREEN. One per cent diamine sky blue; ^ per cent chrysophenine; 20 per cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal soda. ECRU. One-half ounce naphtamine brown N; iy2 ounces naphtamine yellow N N; 10 pounds salt; 1 per cent sal soda. YELLOW. One per cent direct yellow G cone; 20 per cent salt; 1 per cent sal soda. RED. Three and one-half per cent direct 258 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. scarlet B cone; 25 per cent salt; 2 per cent sal soda. BROWN. Four per cent naphtamine brown R G; 30 per cent salt; 2 per cent sal soda. GREEN. Four per cent diamine green G; % per cent diamine fast yellow B; 25 per cent salt; 3 per cent sal soda. BOOK MUSLIN, Book muslin is a textile term that is somewhat of a misnomer, not having any connection with fabrics used for book coverings. The goods are used very extensively for stiffening and lining clothing and for the foundation work of ladies' hats; they are distin- guished more by the feel or finish than by appearance. They vary in appear- ance from plain weave to small checks. Being made more for utility than ef- fect, fancy weaves are not called for or DBOaDDaDBDBDBBBa DBGBDDDDBDBDBBBB DBaBDaDDBaaDBBBB BnBaBBBBDBDBaaOD DBDBaDnDBnBDBBBB BDBaBBBBaBDBaODD DBDBDODDBDBaBBBB BDBDBBBBDBDBCGDD FiR.l. I'l'iiii'i'i Fig. 2. nBDBDnDDBDBDi IDBOI IDBDBnDDn Fifr. 3. QBDB mnam OBDB BQBD DBDB BDBD Fig. 4 necessary. One of the principal weaves used is a leno, one end crossing one. An analysis of a book muslin sam- ple showsthe following data: Finished width, 32 inches; 24s yarn in both warp and filling, 54 ends and 45 picks per inch. The weave is shown in Fig. 1, being on 16 ends and 8 picks. The general effect is shown by 8 ends and 8 picks, the next 8 ends differing only in the plain weave being reversed. Fig. 2 shows the harness draft and Fig. 3, the reed draft. The warp yarns aver- age 8 ends in 5 dents, there being 16 ends in 10 dents per pattern. The 4 ends working as 1 are drawn through one heddle. The chain draft is shown at Fig. 4, the working of the first two, or selvedge, harnesses being plain. Stop pegs are not required, the J picks in 1 shed coming into contact with each other. Another book muslin fabric under consideration contains the same counts of yarns as the other sample. The count of this cloth is 43x38, and the width 35 inches finished. The weave is plain. Book muslins are usually wovea white and piece dyed in solid colors. LOOM REQUIRED. Any of the three classes of weaves mentioned may be woven on single box, fast, light running looms. Tbe sample analyzed would require a dob- by loom. The leno and plain weave samples could be woven best on cam looms. One beam only is required, FINISHING. Before finishing, the goods feel very sleazy. The effect obtained by finish- ing is to change this cloth into a very stiff, board-like fabric. Goods for lin- ings are sized the least; those for stif- fening and millinery purposes are sized heavily. After being woven, the cloth is washed, dyed, dried, sized, dried and folded as desired. No burling, singeing or shearing is required, as perfect cloth is not absolutely essential apd the glue or size, combined with the pressing, lays the loose fibres. In sizing, the cloth passes through the size box and on to the drying cyl- inders. If a glazed finish is required, it is svibjected to pressure by the heat- ed T'ollers of the calender machine. The sizing substances are usually glue, gum, flour and size, of variable proportions, mixed with water to the desired consistency. The weight of size in a piece will vary from about 5 per cent to 40 per cent of the entire weight. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yarns that make up book mus- lin are made in mills of the first ;md second divisions. For this class of fab- ric a short-staple medium grade of cotton is used. The general staple is about one inch. In the better quali- ties of this fabric only the raw stock is used in the mixture, but the poorer qualities contain a certain percentage of waste, either comber or card being used according to the quality required. For this article we will consider that the mixture is made up without waste. THE MIXING for this class of cotton should be as large as possible because production is looked to more than quality, but the A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 259 quality should be as good as possible. The cotton is put through an opener and three processes of pickers. The speed of the beater of the opener should be 1,050 revolutions per minute, the fan on this machine making 350 revolutions per minute. This opener is generally directly connected to the breaker picker. This picker may be provided with either a pin, or, as it is sometimes called, a carding beater, or a rigid tj^pe having either two or three blades. If a two-bladed rigid beater, the speed should be 1,500 revolutions per minute; if a three-bladed beater, the speed should be reduced to 1,000 revolutions per minute. The fan speed should be 1,400 revolutions per minute. The draft of this picker should be about 1.85. The WEIGHT OF THE LAP at the front should be, total, 40 pounds; weight per yard, 16 ounces. These laps are put up and doubled 4 into 1 at the intermediate picker. The beater of this picker, if a two-bladed rigid type, makes 1,450 revolutions per minute with a fan speed of 1,050 revo- lutions per minute and a draft of 2.80. The total weight of lap at the front is 38 pounds or a 10-ounce lap. These laps are put up at the finisher picker and doubled 4 into 1. The speed of this beater, if two bladed, should be 1,450' revolutions per minute; fan speed, 1,100 revolutions per minute; draft, 2.80; weight of laps at front, 39 pounds or a 1414-ounce lap. The stock passing through this machine with these speeds receives about 41 blows or beats per inch. At the card the speed of the licker-in varies from 300 to 350 revolutions per minute, ac- cording to make of card. The speed of flats is 1 revolution every 45 min- utes (110 flats), THE CARDS should be stripped at least three times a day and the doffer should be stripped an extra time if a very large production is being turned off. Use a coarse wire fillet for both doffer and cylinder for cards on this stock, and use settings given for indi- go prints in a previous article. The draft of the card should not ex- ceed 100 for this class of goods. The weight of the sliver should be 65 grains per yard and the production 850 pounds for a week of 60 hours. Grind cards as previously stated. The card sliver is next put through two processes of drawing, the doublings being 6 into 1 at each process. The speed of the front roll is 400 revolu- tions per minute for leather top rolls and 375 for metallic top rolls. Metal- lic top rolls will be found to be AN ADVANTAGE on this class of stock, but should be looked after to see that they are prop- erly set. Generally speaking, metallic rolls should be set 3-16ths of an inch farther apart than leather top covered rolls. If metallic rolls are used, care should be taken to see that they are the same distance apart their entire length, because if they have sprung, cut work will be the result. The flutes of these rolls should be kept clean and the bearings well oiled and clean or bad results will be obtained. The weight of the sliver at the front of both breaker and finisher drawings should be 72 grains per yard. Draw- ings should be sized four times a day. The drawing should be put up to the slubber and made into .50 hank roving and put through two processes of FLY FRAMES. At the first intermediate it is made into 2 hank roving and at the second 5 hank. Of course these hank rovings will depend a great deal on the way a room is balanced and the amount of production to be turned off. Some- times two different stocks of the same length of staple will be run together at the slubber and first intermediate frames that are going to be made into two different counts of yarn. This is often done in rooms where there are not enousrh frames to have each frame run a different stock, so that it may be necessary to alter the draft and hank roving of one or both stocks to the best advantage of each. Thus it will be seen that the hanks and drafts given here may be used as a foundation from which to work, and used if each ma- chine is using this one staple, and gi-ade and kind of cotton. The roving is taken to the spinning frame and made into 24s yarn. At the warp frame use a 2-inch diameter ring, 7- inch traverse, 23.27 twist per inch and 9,400 revolutions per minute spindle speed. For a filling frame use 1%- inch diameter ring, 614-inch traverse, 15.9 twist per inch and a spindle speed of 7,600 revolutions per minute. A heavy sizing is used for this class of goods. Dyeing Partitulars. Dyed on the jig machine. BLACK. Five per cent oxy diamine black A T; per cent sal soda; 20 per cent salt. BROWN. Five per cent diamine brown B; 1 2C0 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. per cent diamine fast yellow B; 2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent salt. SLATE. One and one-half per cent diamine black B H; 2 ounces diamine fast yel- low B; 2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent salt; make up a starch liquor with 10 ounces dextrine; 1 gallon water; mix cold. Add a little color to match shade required, and boil well for one hour. Starch on mangle and dry on the ten- ter frame. MULL, Mull may be defined as a thin, plain woven fabric, of which there are sev- eral varieties, as Swiss, India, starched, China or silk. The China or silk mull is a union fabric, usually with cotton warp and silk filling. This is the finest fabric of the above-mentioned varieties and is used exclusively for dress goods. The Swiss and India mulls are fine, soft-bleached cotton fabrics, principal- ly used for dress goods. THE STARCHED MULL is somewhat coarser than the Swiss or India mull and is used principal- DBnaaaoa mau BGHG DBGBGBDa ■JBGBOBG DBGBGBQB BGBGBGBG DBGBGBGB BGBGBGBG Fig. 1. Design. DGGGGGGB G3Z~ZZBG CGGGBGGG DGGBGnGG GGBCGGGG □BGGGGGG BDGGGGGQ Fig. 2. Draft. ly for stiffening in various parts of a dress, usually dresses of unwashable material, and is also used as a founda- tion for ladies' silk trimmed hats, cur- tains, etc. Starched mull is a plain, loosely woven fabric and is stiffened in the finishing process by sizing. These various qualities of mull dif- fer in point of texture considerably from one another; the silk mull is in point of texture twice as fine as some grades of cotton mull. The China or silk mull and also the cotton mull used for dress purposes are characterized by their SOFTNESS. This feature is partially brought about by the materials used and partially by the finish which the fabric receives. The silk mull requires less attention in finishing, as the materials used in the coHStruction of the fabric, the silk filling in particular, and the high grade of the cotton warp, are in them- selves conducive to producing a soft fabric. In the cheaper grades of cotton mull, wherein the coai'ser counts of yarn are used, the warp yarn must first be well sized so as to withstand the ten- sion and strain incurred during the process of weaving. This sizing, while it strengthens the warp yarn, imparts to the fabric a harsh handle or feel, due to the ingredients used in the size, which may be wheat, flour, farina or sago and a small quantity of softening materials, usually tallow or wax. The softening materials are necessary in order to make the yarn pliable; otherwise it would be inclined to be too brittle to weave readily. Af- ter the fabric is woven and ready for the finisher it is subjected to a WASHING PROCESS, which takes out all the sizing mate- rials in the warp yarn, after which the fabric is subjected to a combination of sizing materials for the sole purpose of softening the fabric. The above process applies more particularly to the all-cotton fabrics. This class of fabrics — mull — requires very little ingenuity on the part of the designer to produce, there being no ornamental features or fancy weaves. The goods are plain woven, depending for their beauty or attractiveness en- tirely on the finishing. Mull made for dress goods is of fine texture, and is finished very soft, while the fabric in- tended for lining or decorative pur- poses is much coarser in texture than the dress fabric, and is stiffened in the finishing and commonly known as starched mull. The goods are usually WOVEN IN THE GRAY and the bulk of them are finished pure white or bleached, although these fab- rics may be obtained in almost any color desired. The China or silk mull is usually, like the all-cotton fabric, finished un- dyed. In the former case, however, the cotton yarn is bleached in the hank. The silk filling used in this fab- ric is raw silk, viz., tram silk. This is soft and very pliable and lends itself readily to the production of a soft fab- ric. The filaments of raw silk cannot be spun into a thread like wool and cotton, as they have no peculiarities of surface that correspond to the scales on the surface of the wool fibres; the wool fibres, when spun into a thread, are arranged so that these scales are opposed to one another as much as pos- sible and thereby interlock and hold j^; lofi lio.foo.li-"" A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 261 fast to one another, and the more the threads are spun, the closer they engage one another and in conse- quence produce a stronger thread. The peculiarities of the cotton fibre are its twists. The cotton fibre under the mi- croscope appears as a thin flat tube or ribbon, considerably twisted; these twists in the fibres give strength to the thread by interlacing with one an- other somewhat on the order of the scales in the woolen threads. In silk, however, the filaments can only be made into a thread by twisting a num- ber of the filaments- into fine threads, and these threads are again twisted un- til a thread of the desired count is ob- tained. Following is an ANALYSIS of a cotton and silk fabric: Width of warp in reed, 2S% inches; width of fabric finished, 27 inches; ends per inch in reed, 76; ends per inch finished, SO; ends in warp including selvedges, 2,200; reed, 1,400x2; warp yarn, l-60s cotton. Filling, one dram silk, tram; 54 picks. ANALYSIS OF STARCHED MULL. Width of warj) in reed, 33% inches; width of fabric finished, 30 inches; ends per inch in reed, 36; ends per inch finished, 40; ends in warp includ- ing selvedge, 1,220; reed, 1,300x1; warp l-50s cotton. Filling, l-54s cotton; 36 picks. LOOM REQUIRED. Any ordinary single box loom may be used for weaving this fabric. The speed of the loom is the most impor- tant consideration if the selection of loom be optional; the finer grades of mull are usually woven on eight har- nesses, straight draft, while the coars- er grades are confined to four har- nesses, drawn in the following order: 1, 3, 2, 4. FINISHING. Mull made for dress goods is of a very fine texture and softened in the finishing. This is accomplished by immersing the fabric in a solution of oily matters, the ingredients being composed of a liberal percentage of glycerine or cocoanut oil and a very small quantity of farina. Chloride of magnesium may be used with good re- sults. This is a very powerful soft- ener, as well as a weighting material, and has a great affinity for water, and has the power of attracting moisture to the cloth in which it is used. This attraction of moisture really constitutes the softening effect. The above meth- od of softening applies in particular to all-cotton mull. In the silk filling goods the fabric is usually only boiled off, then run through a rotary press. For stiffening the fabric, the goods, after they are bleached, are im- mersed in a solution of size composed of flour, tallow, and gum arable; this stiffening is done in front of the dry- ing cylinders, the goods running through the sizing trough on to the cylinders, which completes the finish- Bleaching Particulars. Boil with 4 degrees Tw. caustic soda in a kier for 12 hours, and run through washing machine. Give a second boil with 4 degrees Tw. caustic soda. Wash through machine and run through solution of chloride of lime at Vz degree Tw. Place in bin for two hours. Pass through a solution of sul- phuric acid % degree Tw. Pass through washing machine till all trace of acid is eliminated. Starching Particulars. One gallon: 4 ounces dextrine, 4 ounces cornstarch. Boil for one hour and starch through mangle. Dry on the tenter frame. LINON, Linon, usually termed India linon or India linen, is a fine, closely woven plain fabric well known for its excel- lent wearing and washing qualities. It is made from combed cotton yarns of long-stapled stock. It is made in various widths, from 27 inches to 36 inches, and in slightly varying constructions and qualities. The goods are made to resemble as closely as possible fine linen fabrics. The cloth structure is firmly made in the loom. The analysis of a good quality India linon fabric shows the following data: Ends per inch, 108; picks per inch, 110; finished width, 36 inches; warp, 90s; filling, 110s. Each selvedge con- sists of 16 ends of 2-90s. The yarns v/ere reeded 2 ends per dent in the loom. The selvedges were also reeded 2 ends per dent, i. e., 2-ply yarns. Two of these would be equal to 4 of the single yarns. Woven with about 94 ends per inch in the loom, it will be seen that a very 262 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY, fine reed has been used. This was nec- essary in order that an even surface, practically free from reed marks, should result. LOOM REQUIRED. The goods may be woven on a single box plain loom of not too light con- struction. On account of the fairly large number of picks per inch and the fine quality of cloth, a firm, steady take-up motion on the loom is neces- sary. The ends are drawn in in the regu- ular 1, 3, 2, 4 skip shaft order, on twine harnesses. One warp beam only is required. Practically all fabrics usually woven on cam looms may also be woven on dobby looms, if necessary. To weave the fabric under consid- eration, on a dobby loom, the ends should be drawn in straight on at least S harnesses to prevent overcrowding of the heddles. FINISHING. A good finish for these goods is to singe, wash, bleach, size or starch with a light Indian corn or potato starch, the former material being preferable; then calender, dry and make up as re- quired. A second dampening and cal- endering, following the first calender- ing, improves the quality of the finish. Very little stiffening or starch is used because the goods are intended to be washed frequently. When finished, the goods have the appearance of a smooth linen finished lawn. They are slightly glossy. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The division of mills that make the yarns that India linon is composed of is the third. This division of mills, as given in a previous article, is the one that makes the finest yarns and is equipped with machinery suitable to do this. India linon is made from a good quality of Sea Island cotton of about 1% to 1% inch staple. For this class of goods it is quality and not quantity that is the main considera- tion. The cotton is mixed as has been described in previous articles, the good sliver being mixed in at this point, as well as laps that are too light and cut sliver waste, if any is made at any of the processes. Some over- seers put cut sliver through the last process again, and let it go at that, but the only proper method to remedy this kind of work is to put it back in- to the mixing. FOR THIS FABRIC the cotion is put through two proc- esses of pickers, and an opener. The opener should be kept as full as possi- ble so that as even a feed as possible will be obtained. The breaker picker is generally equipped with a two- bladed rigid type of beater, the speed of which is 1,200 revolutions per min- ute. Some overseers prefer a pin beat- er, but others claim that it puts neps into long-staple cotton. This is un- doubtedly due to improper setting as well as not running it at the proper speed. The weight of the lap at the front of this picker is 32 pounds or a 9% -ounce lap. These laps are doubled 4 into 1 at the finisher picker. This picker has a two-bladed beater, whose speed is 1,050 revolutions per minute, or about 29 beats per minute. The speed of this beater should be just high enough to get the dirt out of the cotton and not injure it. The total weight of the lap at the front of the picker is 30 pounds or a 9%-ounce lap. A variation of 6 ounces either side of standard is allowed; if laps weigh out- side of this they are either put through the finisher picker again or if a great deal too light or too heavy they are put back into the mixing again. These ' laps are put up at the card. The cards used for this stock should be kept free of all dirt, etc., and the card fillet should be kept sharp and parts proper- ly set to each other. The flats should make ONE COMPLETE REVOLUTION every 35 minutes, the licker-in speed should not exceed 280 revolutions per minute, and the weight of the sliver at the front should be 40 grains per yard. It is an important point that the cards should be kept extra clean. The pro- duction of a card for a week of 60 hours should not exceed 275 pounds. The draft should be not less than 130. After passing through the cards, the sliver is generally put through sliver lap, ribbon lap and comber processes. At the sliver lap the doublings for an 8%-inch lap are 14 into 1. The weight of a yard of lap at the front of this ma- chine is 220 grains. These laps ai-e put up at the ribbon lap machine and doubled 6 into 1. The weight of a yard of sliver at the front of this ma- chine is 210 grains. These are put up at the comber and doubled 6 into 1 if a six-head comber, or 2 into 1, if comb- er is an eight-head comber. Set and time the comber for this stock the same as given in a previous article on Sea Island cotton. Keep all parts of comber that the cotton comes in contact with well polished and free from dirt. If more than one end A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 2C3 breaks on the table the sliver at the front should be broken before entering the coiler and the broken ends pieced up before the sliver is allowed to en- ter can. If any single has entered the can, it should of course be removed and the end properly pieced again; be sure and make a good piecing, not one that will break back at the succeeding process or one that will not draw out. The sliver is then put through three processes of drawing, the doublings of which are all 6 into 1. The weight of the drawing at the front of the finish- er drawing should be 65 grains per yard. For THIS CLASS OF WORK leather top rolls are generally used. These should be kept well oiled and varnished and in perfect order. The drawings should be sized four times a day and the ribbon lap at least once a day. Look out to see that your stop- motions are all in perfect order and working. Be sure that there are no laps on the third bottom steel roll or in fact on any roll, as this will tend to produce cut sliver as well as throw the size out. Keep drawing on heavy size of standard weight. This sliver is next put up at the slubber and drawn into .80 hank roving. The bottom steel rolls should be a little larger in diam- eter than when used for shorter staple. This is in order to prevent licking. •The clearers on the slubber should be picked frequently and not allowed to collect until they drop down and pass into the work. The hank roving at the fly frame is as follows: for filling first intermediate, 2.25 hank; second inter- mediate, 5 hank; fine, 20 hank; for warp yarn,first intermediate,2.25hank; second. 5 hank, and fine, 18 hank; for the selvedge yarn use the same hank roving as for the warp yarn. On this grade of stock the slubber rolls should be varnished and some overseers var- nish the front rolls of their first inter- mediate frame. The leather top rolls should be IN PERFECT CONDITION and special care should be given to the rail or carriage and the parts that operate it to see that they change sharply and that there is no dwell at the top and bottom of the bobbin, for this may cause it to run over or under and make a bad bobbin, or if this does not happen, it will break back at the spinning frame or mule every time it gets to the top or bottom of the bob- bin, thus causing a lot of trouble, be- sides -the liability of singles, which should be looked out for at all proc- esses. Full bobbins should never be thrown into the boxes, but should be packed. The roving for filling may be taken to either the mule or spinning room; if the latter, use a frame having a 5-inch traverse, li/4-inch diameter ring and a spindle speed of 7,400 revo- lutions per minute. This yarn is then conditioned.then it is ready to use. The warp yarn is frame spun on a frame having a 2%-inch diameter ring; 5-inch traverse, and a spindle speed of 9,400 revolutions per minute. This yarn is put through the spooler and warping processes and from here to the slasher, where sufiicient beams are put up at the back to give the required number of ends at the front. For this class of goods the following size mixture may be used: Water, 100 gallons; pota- to starch, 70 pounds; tallow, 7 pounds; Yorkshire gum, 3 pounds; white soap, 2 pounds; boil two hours and let stand ten hours. Before using, keep agitator lunning, and keep size at almost boil- ing point. Dyeing Particulars. PINK. Two ounces diamine fast scarlet 4 B; 1/2 pound sal soda; 20 per cent Glauber's salt. PEARL. Two ounces thion violet black A; 3 ounces thion black T B C; 1 per cent sulphide sodium; 1 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt. NAVY BLUE. Ten per cent immedial indone B B; 10 per cent sulphide sodium: 2 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt. LIGHT BLUE. Five per cent immedial sky blue F; 5 per cent sulphide soda; 1 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt. ECRU. Four ounces thion brown G; 1 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt. SAGE GREEN. One per cent thion green G; Vz per cent thion yellow G; \>k Per cent sul- phide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt. BROWN. Eight per cent thion brown G; 2 per cent thion brown O; 10 per cent sul- phide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's. MYRTLE GREEN. Two per cent thion yellow G; 6 per cent thion green G; 8 per cent sul- 264 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. phide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glaubers salt. SLATE. Four ounces thion black T R; i^ per cent sulphide sodium; 1 per cent soda ash: 15 per cent Glauber's salt. TAFFETA SILK LINING OR TAFFETINE. This is a fabric made with a silk warp, cotton, linen or wild silk filling. Taffetine is a term variously used at different times; specifically it is a fine, glossy, closely woven, uncorded and untwilled fabric, used entirely for ladies' wear in the form of a lining, underskirts, etc. Taffetine derives its name from the more costly fabric, taffeta. This fabric is of QUITE ANCIENT ORIGIN, being in use as early as the 16th cen- tury as a dress fabric for both men and women. Taffeta of the 16th cen- tury was a thick, costly fabric, made with silk and wool. In the 17th cen- tury the fabric was defined as a soft, thin fabric. In the transition the goods have undergone a complete change of texture and in the ISth cen- tury taffeta was a very lustrous silk fabric, sometimes checked or flowered or striped with gold and silver. The taffetine under consideration is a fine, plain-woven fabric with warp threads per inch greatly in excess of filling threads per inch and the warp of a much finer count than the filling. THE FINEST QUALITIES of fabrics are made on this basis. The warp yarn for these goods is inva- riably raw silk, technically known as organzine or thrown silk, and the fill- ing may be cotton, linen or artificial silk. The raw silk used for filling in silk fabrics is technically known as tram silk. This is similar to the organzine; the difference lies in the twisting of the filaments. These filaments are put together very loosely with LITTLE OR NO TWIST; consequently, they are not as strong as the more firmly twisted fibres, but sufficiently strong to answer as filling. When the filaments cannot be drawn from the cocoon in one continuous thread, due generally to the cocoon being damaged by the worm in eating Its way out. these cocoons are torn up and the filaments are combed and laid parallel to one another, and the thread made from the damaged cocoons is known as spun silk. The spun silk is not as smooth or as fine as the raw silk thread, although some of the fibres are of considerable length and strong enough to be used for warp threaas. Spun silk is cal- culated by the weight of 1,000-yaid same basis as cotton, namely, 840 yards to 1 hank, or, 840 yards of No. Is equal one pound. Raw silk is cal- culated as to the size of thread, on the hanks in drams avoirdupois; thus, if one hank weighs 1 dram, it is known as 1 dram silk, or 256,000 yards equal 1 pound. THE FILLING for these fabrics is either cotton, lin- en or wild silk. Linen filling is used in the best grades of taffetine; linen yarn is prepared similarly to worsted thread, notwithstanding that linen is a vegetable fibre. The raw flax is first beaten or crushed in order to make it pliable; then it is combed, or passes through the process technically known as scutching. Flax fibres must be of a certain length in order to work properly. If too long, they are broken in a machine called a saw. After the fibres are combed they are carded and the long fibres are spun in- to linen yarn, while the short fibres are converted into what is known as tow yarn. Taffetine is sold in both narrow and wide widths. The nar- row fabric is usually about 19 inches wide. This narrow fabric is common- ly WOVEN DOUBLE WIDTH, then cut in two after the fabric is woven. In order that the ends may not fray out after the fabric is cut, the goods are made with a fast centre selvedge. In warping, extra ends are allowed just as in an ordinary outside selvedge. In the centre of the warp, these ends are reeded double as is the common prac- tice for reeding selvedges, leaving one or more dents empty where the fab- ric is to be cut. Fast centre selvedges are extensive- ly used in the manufacture of ribbons, scarfs, cheaper grades of cassimeres and, in fact, any fabric characterized by its narrowness. The fast centre selvedge consists of crossing one thread over two or more threads, similarly to the douping of threads in leno weaving. See diagram. Fig. 1. The douping or crossing of threads is effected by an attachment on the back of the loom, directly in the cen- A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 2C5 tre of the loom if but two pieces are to be woven; the threads that are crossed rest stationary in the attach- ment, while the crossing threads cross over from one side to the other at each pick or every two picks as may be de- sired. The crossing thread and the threads over which it crosses must be reeded in the same dent, as in leno weaving. ANALYSIS. Width of warp in reed, 40 inches, double width; width of fabric finished, 19 inches, single width; ends per inch finished, 106; ends per inch in reed, 100. Reed, 50x2; ends in warp, double width, 3,920; outside selvedges, 80; centre selvedges, 80; equals total of 4,080 ends in warp. Take-up during weaving, 10 per cent; warp, 1^4: dram organzine silk. in the second division of mills as given in a previous article. These mills are equipped with combers. The warp yarn of the fabric under description is silk and the filling yarn is cotton. For this class of fabric two kinds of raw stock may be used, either a medi- um staple Sea Island cotton, or an Egyptian cotton. We will assume that an Egyptian cotton of good grade and of 1%-inch staple is used. As Egyptian cotton is MORE EASILY WORKED than American cotton, the speeds at which the different machines are run are higher, as will be noted by comparing this article with some of the other ar- ticles in which an American cotton of the same grade and length of staple has been described. Egyptian bales of cotton are baled better and compressed more tightly than American bales. Dotted line indicates where fabric is to be cut. Filling, l-50s combed and gassed cotton; 88 picks per inch. LOOM REQUIRED. Plain woven silk warp fabrics may be woven on any light smooth-running loom. The essential consideration is the heddles. For this class of fabrics the French string heddles are consid- ered the best, as they are less liable to break or chafe the warp during the process of weaving in comparison with the ordinary wire heddle. FINISHING. The goods require little in the way of finishing. After the fabric is dyed It is slightly stiffened by immersing in a light solution of size. The stiffen- ing and the materials used in the con- struction of the fabric produce a crisp and rustling effect. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Taffetine is composed of yarns made the average weight being 800 pounds, instead of 500 pounds, as compared with the American bales. The cotton should be allowed to stand in the bins a little longer than the American bales, so as to allow the cotton to expand. The good waste from the machines up to the slubber is put into the mixing. The cotton is then passed through either two or three processes of PICKING and an opener. Keep the opener well filled with raw stock so that as even a feed as possible may be obtained. The speed of the beater at the breaker picker is 1,500 revolutions per minute and the total weight of the lap at the front is 40 pounds or a 20-ounce lap. These laps are doubled 4 into 1 at the intermediate picker. The speed of this beater is 1.450 revolutions per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front is 0TV2 pounds or a 12-ounce lap. The 266 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. doublings at the finisher picker are 4 into 1, the speed of the picker being 1,450 revolutions per minute. The total weight of a lap at the front of the picker is 35 pounds or a 12%-ounce lap. These laps are put up at the card. The licker-in speed is 350 revolutions per minute. The flats make one com- plete revolution every 30 minutes, and the cylinder 160 revolutions per min- ute. The draft of the card for this class of goods is 135. The sliver at the front weighs 45 grains per yard and the nroduction for a week of 60 hours is 550 pounds. Use the same SETTINGS AT THE CAUD as have been previously given for 1%- inch-staple American cotton. The grind- ing and stripping times are also the same. The sliver is next put through a sliver lap machine, when it is dou- bled 14 into 1 for an 8%-inch lap. The draft of this machine is about 2. The bottom steel rolls are spread as fol- lows for this staple of cotton: Front to middle, 1% inches; middle to back, 1% inches. The weight of a yard of lap at the front is 295 grains. These laps are doubled 6 into 1 at the RIBBON LAP MACHINE. The bottom steel rolls of this ma- chine are spread as follows: Front to second, 1% inches; second to third, 1% inches; third to back, 1% inches. The weight of a yard of lap at the front of this machine is 27.'^ grains. A size of the lap at this machine should be taken once a day. A variation of 2 grains either side of the standard is allowed before changing the draft gear. These laps are put up at the comber and doubled according to the number of heads that the comber contains — generally 6 or 8. If a six-head comber is used, six laps would be put up at the back. The percentage of waste taken out for this stock is 18. The set- tings of the draw box i-olls are: Front to middle, 1 7-16 inches; middle to back. 1% inches. The speed of the comber is 90 nips per minute. The timings and settings are the same as given in a previous article. The per- centages of the combers should be tak- en regularly, the general method being to take so many combers a day. Keep needles in good condi- tion and straight and free from •waste. See that the half lap neeciles are in good condition, and that the timings and settings are as they should be. About two combers a week should be scoured by a comber man and his helper. The weight of a yard of sliver at the coiler of this machine is 40 grains. This sliver is next put through two processes ol DRAWING FRAMES, the doubling being either 6 ends up at both processes or, as is often done, 8 ends up at the breaker and 6 ends at the finisher. The weight per yard of the sliver at the finisher drawing is 74 grains. The top rolls used may be either metallic or leather. The settings of the rolls are as follows: Front to second, ll^ inches; second to third, 1% inches and third to back, 1% inches. This setting is for leather rolls. If metallic rolls are used, set Vs of an inch wider. Size at the drawing frame four times a day. At the slub- ber the sliver is drawn into .50 hank roving, after which it is put through three processes of fly frames, the hank roving at each proress being as fol- lows: First intermediate, 1.25; second intermediate, 3; and fine frame, 10 hank. This cotton requires 1 tooth more twist than American cotton for the same hank roving. Set the jack frame bottom steel rolls as follows: PYont to middle, 1 7-16 inches and mid- dle to back, lYz inches. Size 10 hank roving once a day. "Watch the usual points at the speeders that have been already pointed out in previous arti- cles, THE FILLING is either mule or frame spun, general- ly mules being used for this class of goods. If frame spun, the require- ments of a frame are as follows: Gauge of frame, 2% Inches; diameter of ring, 11,4 inches; length of traverse, 51/2 inches; speed of spindles, 8,200 revolutions per minute. The yarn is then run over or through a gas flame to take off all fuzz and give it a lus- tre. Dyeing Particulars. The dyeing of goods composed of silk and cotton is generally done in open vats provided with a winch, in some cases also on a jigger if the ma- terial to be dyed requires it. Colors which dye silk and cotton are used, dyeing first with the substantive color, with soap and phosphate of soda, or common salt and a little sal soda. Should the silk require colors to be made a little brighter, acid colors are used in a bath of soap and acetic acid, or a basic color is dyed in a soap bath with acetic acid, the color dyeing both the cotton and silk a brighter shade. For pale shades: 10 gallons liquor; 5 ounces soap; V2 ounce sal soda; 3 ounces phos- phate soda. For heavy shades: 10 gal- ^';/^7<>^x^'"p A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 267 Ions liquor; 6 ounces soap; 14 ounce sal soda; G ounces phosphate soda; 10 ounces Glauber's salt. The temperature of the dye bath is generally about 195 degrees F. After dyeing, the pieces must be well rinsed, and raised with acetic acid, in cold water: 10 gallons water; IVo pints acetic acid. BLACK. Eight per cent union black S; 1 per cent diamine fast yellow A; 30 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda; 2 per cent soap. Top with alizarine black 4 SEA GREEN. One-half per cent diamine black H W; 4 ounces diamine fast yellow B; topped with new methylene blue N; new phosphine G. For 10 gallons dye liquor: 6 ounces soap; l^ ounce sal soda; 3 ounces phosphate soda. NAVY BLUE. Three per cent diamine dark blue B 1 per cent diamine brilliant blue G topped with new methylene blue N X metaphenylene blue B; indigo blue N. PEARL. Two ounces diamine gray G; 1-16 ounce diamine brown M; topped with aniline gray B. SLATE. Ten ounces diamine gray G; % ounce diamine brown M; topped with cyanol extra, orange extra. LIGHT MAUVE. One ounce diamine violet N; i/^ ounce diamine brilliant blue G; topped with methyl violet B I. VIOLET. One per cent diamine violet N; Vz per cent diamine brilliant blue G; topped with methyl violet B I. PINK. Two per cent diamine rose B D; topped with rhodamine G. RED. Three per cent diamine fast red F; topped with safranine S 150; acid vi- olet 4 R S. SKY BLUE. Four ounces diamine sky blue F F; topped with cyanol extra. LIGHT BROWN. One per cent diamine brown B; V^ per cent diamine yellow B; topped with Bismarck brown F F; thioflavine T. MYRTLE GREEN. Two per cent diamine black H W; 2 per cent diamine green B; 1 per cent diamine fast yellow B; topped with brilliant green; new methylene blue N. SCARLET. Three per cent diamine fast scarlet G B; V2 per cent diamine orange D C; topped with safranine G G S; tannine orange R. CREAM. One-quarter ounce diamine gold; % ounce diamine orange B; 1-16 ounce di- amine fast j^ellow B. STEEL. One-eighth ounce diamine gray G; topped with cyanol extra; aniline gray B. VICTORIA LAWN, Victoria lawn is a fabric resembling to a great extent a fabric previously explained, linon. It is usually made with slightly heavier yarn in the warp and contains a greater n amber of ends and picks per inch. It is very firmly woven. It is especially used for aprons and ladies' heavy undergarments, having excellent wearing and washing quali- ties. The usual widths are from 32 inches to 36 inches. They are made in different grades. Retail prices for some are 12 and 15 cents for the 32-inch width, 23 cents, 27 cents, 32 cents and 38 cents for the 36-inch width. A typical fabric, weighing about 8% square yards per pound, is constructed as follows: 124 ends per inch, 120 picks per inch, 3G inches wide, finished. CALCULATIONS. Thirteen square inches of the cloth under consideration weigh 8 grains. To find the number of yards per pound: 13 (sq. In.) X 7,000 (grs. per lb.) 8 (grs.) X 3f (cloth width) x 36 (Inches per yard) = 8.7T7 yards per pound. 268 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. To find the average number or firmly made, one beam, is the best to count of jarn in the cloth: use. Dobby looms, although capable 124 (ends per inch) + 120 (picks per inch) = 244. 244 X 8.777 (yds. per lb.) X 86 In. 764 (10% aUowed for contraction and size 764 used Instead of 840) = lOO average number. ANOTHER METHOD of finding the average number, without taking into consideration the number of yards per pound, is as follows: Multiply the sum of the slay and pick by the number of square inches weighed and by .254 and divide by the weight in grains. This is a simpler method, as will be seen by comparing the number of fig- ures that have to be used in the two methods: 244 X 13 X .254 = 100 average number. .254 in the above example is a con- stant obtained by dividing 7,000 (grains) by 36 (inches) and by 764 (yards per hank). The latter is used instead of S40, allowing 10 per cent. The counts of the yarns are: warp, 85s; filling, 130s. The weight of the warp yarns may be obtained as follows: 124 (ends per inch) times 36 inches (finished width) equals 4464. 4464 plus 40 for selvedges equals 4504, total number of ends in warp. of weaving goods of this class, are not usually run at as high a rate of speed as cam looms. FINISHING. The finishing process includes singe- ing, washing, bleaching, very light starching, drying and pressing, or cal- endering. STARCHING. After a bleaching process, the pieces are given a very good starching with. 4 ounces of German white dextrine to a gallon of water, boiled for one hour, and starched through a mangle, and dried over a tenter frame, care being taken to have the goods perfectly straight. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The counts of yarn of which Victo- ria lawn is composed are made in the second and third divisions of mills as given in a previous article. The counts of yarn of which the sample under de- scription is made are S5s warp and 130s filling. Both warp and filling 4504 X 105 (length of warp) 85 (counts of warp) x 840 = 6.623 lbs. of warp In 100 yards of cloth. 6.623 plus 5 per cent for size equals 6.954 pounds, weight of warp and size. To find weight of filling: 120 (picks per inch) times 40 inches (width in reed) equals 4,800 yards of filling in one yard of cloth. yarns are combed. The cotton used for the filling yarn is 1%-inch staple Sea Island stock and that used for the filling is either a long-staple peeler or a 1%-inch Sea Island. We will as- sume that both 3'arns are made from 4,800 X 100 (cloth length) 130 (filling counts) x 840 = 4.392 lbs. of fllUng In 100 yards of cloth. 6.954 lbs. warp and size. 4.392 lbs. filling. 11.346 lbs., weight of 100 yard piece. 100 divided by 11.346 = 8.8 yards per pound. The fabric under consideration, if woven on a dobby loom, could be woven on about 8 harnesses, straight draw, the ends in the body of the cloth being reeded 4 in a dent. The selvedge ends work 2 as 1, 2 doubles in 1 dent. The weave is plain through- out. A 12-harness straight draw, the ends reeded 3 in a dent, could be sub- stituted. LOOM REQUIRED. The remarks made in connection with the preceding article, linon, also apply here. A single box cam loom. Sea Island stock. The cotton would first be opened, as has been previous- ly explained, and put through an open- er, and either one or two processes of picking, generally two processes being used; but it is the opinion of a great many carders that ONE PROCESS IS BETTER because of the fact that the more pick- ing this cotton is given, the more nepS are liable to be put in. The mixing is generally done by hand and not by machine, for the same reason. The cotton should be passed through the opener in the usual manner and should pass on to the lattice apron of the breaker picker, if two processes are used, and from here passed A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 2(i!) through the feed rolls and to the ac- tion of the beater. This beater is gen- erally of the two-bladed, or armed, type, and for this cotton there should only be made sufficient revolutions per minute to take out the dirt. The speed of the beater is 1,150 revolu- tions per minute, if two processes of picking are used. The weight of the lap at the front of this picker is 32 pounds, or a 10-ounce lap. These laps are put up and doubled 4 into 1 at the finisher picker, the speed of the beat- er being 950 revolutions per minute. The beats per minute for this stock are 29. The total weight of the lap at the front is 2S pounds or a 9%- ounce lap to the yard for the 1%-inch stock and a lO^^-ounce lap for the 1%- inch stock. A variation of ^ pound is allowed either side of standard for 1%-inch stock and Yz pound for 1%- inch stock. It is understood that every lap must be weighed. The lap is next put up AT THE CARD and the draft for the longer staple should not be less than 150 and for the shorter staple 135. The flats should make one revolution every 35 minutes and the speed of the beater should be reduced to 275 revolutions per minute for the same reason as given for the reduction of the speed of the beater of the picker. The counts of the wire used for the fillet should be 35s for cylinder and 37s for doffer and top flats. Special care should be given to the setting and grinding of the fil- let for these cards, the wire being always kept sharp. Use the same set' tings as given in a previous article for this same grade of stock. The WEIGHT OF THE SLIVER should be about 35 grains per yard for the 1%-inch stock and 32 for the 1%- inch stock. The production is 250 pounds per week of 60 hours for 1%- inch stock and 275 to 325 pounds for 1%-inch stock. Both card slivers are taken to the sliver lap machines and doubled 14 into 1 for an 8%-inch lap. The weight of a yard of sliver lap at this machine is 220 grains. These laps are doubled 6 into 1 at the ribbon lap machine, the weight of the lap be- ing 210 grains per yard for both stocks. The laps of the ribbon lap and sliver lap machines should be weighed once a day and the weights changed at the ribbon lap machine to keep the laps at standard weight. The laps are next put up AT THE COMBER and doubled either 6 or 8 into 1, according to the number of heads that the comber contains. The setting and timing of the comber for this stock have been previously given. The draw box rolls should be set from the 1%-inch stock as follows: Front to middle, 1 13-16 inches, middle to back, 1% inches. It sometimes happens that the draw box will not allow the rolls to be spread this distance and about the only method to overcome this de- fect in this machine, as well as in other machines where a like diffi- culty occurs, is to reduce the draft be- tween the middle and back rolls so that the speed of the rolls will be equal, and set rolls just to staple, which will avoid breaking the cotton; but this has the fault of bringing all the draft between the middle and front rolls. The weight of the sliver at the comber for this stock is 35 grains per yard for both stocks. The percentage of waste taken out for the 1%-inch staple is 25 per cent and for the 1%- staple is 22 per cent. This sliver is next put through two processes of DRAWING. These drawings should be equipped with leather top rolls and especial care should be given to the leather top rolls of the sliver lap, ribbon lap, comber and drawing frame machines. The leather detaching rolls of the comber require a somewhat rougher varnished roll than the others, the leather rolls used for the other ma- chines having a smooth, glossy finish. The varnish used for all the rolls should be that which will prevent all licking. The weight of the sliver at the finisher drawing snould be 60 grains per yard for both stocks, the doublings at each process being 6 into 1. At the slubber this is made into .SO hank roving. The front top rolls should be of a larger diameter than those used for shorter staples and should be varnished with a varnish which will give them a smooth, glossy finish. The settings should be 1% inches from front to middle and 2 inch- es from middle to back. The slubber roving is then put through three proc- esses of fly frames and made into 18 hank roving for 1%-inch stock, the hank roving at each process being as follows: 1st intermediate, 2.25 hank; 2d, 5 hank: and fine IS hank. Some- times the front rolls of the 1st inter- mediate fly frame are varnished. This yarn is next put through THE SPINNING FRAME and made into 85s on a frame having a 5-inch traverse, 1%-inch diameter 270 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. ring and a spindle speed of 9,400 rev- olutions per minute. From here it is spooled and warped and put through a slasher. The roving for the filling yarn is put through three processes of fly frames, the hank • roving at each process being as follows: 1st, 2.25 hank, second 7.75 hank and fine 24 hank. This is mule spun into 130s and from here is taken to the condi- tioning room. BIAZ, OR LINEN FINISH SUITING. Biaz is a medium-grade cotton fab- ric resembling linen in appearance. This effect is usually obtained on or- dinary cotton yarns in the finishing process, or in somewhat easier form, by using mercerized yarns or mercer- izing the fabric in the piece. They are usually shown white. The term biaz is an uncommon one in this country. It is an Asiatic na- tive name, pronounced be'az. ORIGIN. The goods are said to have originated at Biaz, a place in the central part of Asia, and to be still manufactured there for home use and for export to Russia. The goods bearing this name are better known in America as "linen finish suitings," and are principally used for ladies' summer suitings. The eastern goods are more heavily filled with foreign matter than ours and are used for various purposes, ANALYSIS. The analysis of a typical biaz fabric shows the following data: Ends per inch, 56; picks per inch, 44; finished width, 32.5 inches; weight. 4.57 yards per pound; warp, 19s; filling, 20s; the ends were reeded 2 in each dent. The weight would probably be considered 4% yards per pound. CALCULATIONS. To find number of yards per pound. The sizes of the yarns are about equal. For practical purposes a warp of 198 and a filling of 20s would answer. LOOM REQUIRED. This fabric may be made on any of the light, fast running cam looms. On account of the small number of ends per inch a set of two-twine harnesses would be preferable. One warp and one shuttle only are required. FINISHING. The finishing of biaz is really the principal characteristic which distin- guishes it from many other plain wov- en cloths. It has a more glossy effect than Indian linen, one finishing process being somewhat similar to that of the latter fabric, with the beetling process added. A finish suitable for this cloth is as follows: Bleach, mangle and dry; fill with a light starch on the starch man- gle; stretch and dry. After drying and cooling, it is run through the damp- ing machine; then through the glazed calender on both sides, under very heavy pressure. The cloth is then dampened,beetled, changed and turned, and again beetled and made up as re- quired. Carding and Spinning Particulars. For biaz the same instructions may be followed as were given in the article on indigo prints, with the fol- lowing exceptions: The slubber roving is .50 hank and this is put through two processes of fly frames. At the first intermediate the roving is made into 1.20 hank and at the second into 3.50 hank. This is then passed directly to the spinning room and spun into 19s warp yarn on a frame having a 2%-inch gauge, two- inch diameter ring, 7-inch traverse; 20.71 twist per inch and a spindle speed of 9,400 revolutions per minute. This is then spooled and warped, after which several warps areput up and run through the slasher and run upon a beam having the required number of A small piece 4 In. z 3 In. weighs 15.7 gra. 4x3 = 12 sq. inches. 12 (sq. in.) x 7,000 (grains) 15.7 (grains) x 32.5 (width) x 36 (Inches per yard) = 4.57 yards per pound. To find average counts of yarn in ends wanted for weaving. The filling the cloth: yarn is spun into 20s on a frame hav- 56 ends + 44 picks = 100. 100 X 32.5 (width) x 4.57 (yds. per lb.) = 19.4 average count. 100 X 12